^ sgia> .af^ TT 520 .B85 Copy 1 DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE NEW YORK Self-Instructing System and Chart FOR (.'L'TTING LADIES'.AND MISSES' DRESSES, BASQUES AND OTHER GARMENTS. INVRWTED BY D. B. B R I GGS ALBANY, N. Y. 1SS9. ALBANY, N. Y THE BRIGGS CHART CC 119 State Stref Office of "^ ■ i The Brigc.s Chart Company, 1- i Albany. N. \^. I We want agents in every city, village and town in the United States and Canada to sell our valuable Chart. Parties wishing to' become agents for the sale of this S^i^ T. ■ ♦-:,, System and Chart, will receive a circular >ale price-list, also full directions how to 3ther valuable information, by addressing THE BRIGGS CHART CO., Albany, N. Y. INVENTOR OF THE NEW YORK KOR CUTTINQ LADIES' GARMENTS. ^1889^ Entered according to Act of Congress in the year eigliteen hundred and eighty-nine. By D. B. BRIGGS, In tlie Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. WEED, PARSONS & CO., ELECTRO TYHERS AND PRINTERS, ALBANY, N. Y. INTRODUCTION. This is an age of progression, and there is no good reason why ladies should not have a more simple, better and easier manner of cutting their garments. The inventor has lone noticed the demand for a Self-Instructing System and Chart for Cutting Ladies' and Misses' Dresses, Basques and other garments. This system has been invented for the express purpose of supplying that demand. Only one thing is necessary in using this system to make it a perfect success, and that is, to work by the Directions and Illustrations in this book in every part and place — in measuring, dotting, drafting, cutting and basting. If this is accurately done, you are sure of success. Yours truly, D. B. BRIGGS. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. If the Chart has been coiled around a roll, it can be made level by ironing- the crowning side with a hot flat before cutting out. It is not in condition for use until each piece is cut around on the outside close to the line. In doing this great care should be taken in order to have the edges straight and smooth. We always furnish a tape measure with the Chart, which is included in the price. Commence by taking three measures according to the directions and illustrations in this book. It is essential that the measures be taken very accurately, as no pattern or garment can be cut to fit nicely unless the measures are correctly taken, and the drafting accurately done. The breast measure should be taken as is seen by the illustrations 1 and 2. In taking the measure stand at the person's back; take the breast measure first, hold the end of the tape measure where the numbers commence in the right hand, pass it under the arms above the bust, bring the end of the tape to the center of the back, and hold it in your right hand, the long part in your left. Standing at the left side of the person, as represented in illustration 2, see that it is above the bust as in illustration 1, close to the arms and straigrht across the shoulders ; draw the tape as tight as you wish the dress when made, and set down the figures. New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. Next drop the tape to the waist, and take a tight measure in the same manner, and set the figures with the others. Take the measure for the length of waist under the right arm, having it raised one foot from the body ; place the tape as high as you wish the dress, then let the arm be down and measure to the natural waist ; allow one-half inch if it be for a dress, but allow nothing for a basque. Set down the figures with the others. Get some heavy white printing paper if it is handy, or some buff-colored thick manilla wrapping paper at a dry- goods store ; if neither is to be had, send ten cents in stamps to our address and we will send you ten sheets of suitable paper by mail. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE FRONT OF A BASQUE PATTERN. Set down your measures on the paper so they will be just above the bust on the pattern when drafted. Suppose the breast measure to be 32 inches. Suppose the waist measure to be 24 inches. Suppose the under-arm measure to be 8 inches. Commence by drawing a line as long as necessary for the pattern, the width of the dart rule on the edge of the paper nearest to you, which is necessary only when drafting for a very full bust, in order to give more breadth. Lay the Chart even and straight with this line (see illus- tration 3) ; dot for neck in front at B, as directed on the Chart for 32 breast measure; dot opposite 32 on Front Neck Scale D, for height of neck ; dot opposite 32 on Front Shoulder Scale at E, for length of shoulder ; dot opposite 32 on Scale F, for width across the breast ; dot opposite 32 on Front Scale G, for size of arm-hole. Draw the shoulder line from dot made at D, to dot made at E, with the upper edge of the Chart. Lay H, on the Chart opposite the dot made at B, for neck in front, and Directions for Using the SultU. "pi 4. ht NeS in the: NEvr York UDIES' AND MISSES' DRESSES. BASQUES t UVXJJILU B7 D. 8. B&ia9S, ALBA1T7, IT. T. '3ZIS IMUV 1 Tlu» 8p.iem ud Cbart i« by Till Eiuoos Cn*BT Putm wiahiag (a beeomo A^sts far tlis uts of tU KXmj\ wiJ ncM*e » CinoJu- ginog the Wbotada Price-Llsl mono;, ood other vkltubL New York Self-Instructing System and Chart, lo Directions for Using the the part at I, at dot made at D, and draw a line from one dot to the other for front of neck. Take the part of the Chart marked Front Arm-size, and place 32 on Scale J, at dot made on Scale E, letting the edge at K, touch the dot made at Scale F. (See illustration 4.) Be sure that the arm-size is placed correctly against these dots, and draw a line from the shoulder line as far as oppo- site of L, and make a dot there on the paper for the top of the gore line ; let L, remain at that dot, and drop the upper part of the arm-size to the dot made at Scale G, then draw a line from one dot to the other. Place the end of the scale rule marked R, at the dot made opposite L, and measure straight down 8 inches on the rule and make a dot ; place the end of this rule marked R, even and square with the line in front, having the straight edge touch the dot made for the length of waist, and draw a line nearly the length of the rule. Change ends with the rule and place the end marked S, even and square with the line in front, lettino- the straig^ht edoe touch the dot made opposite L. Then dot at the waist measure 24 on Dart Scale T, and 24 on Dart Scale U, for the height of the darts ; drop the rule to the lower side of the waist line, dot on this line at 24 on the Dart Scale Y ; dot opposite 24 on Scale W, and opposite 24 on Dart Scale X ; dot at 24 on Gore Scale Y, also dot at 24 on Waist Scale Z. (See illus tration 5.) Take the dart rule and place the point at the dot made at Scale T, letting the edge nearest to you be placed against the dot made at the Scale V, and draw a line both sides of the dart nearly 6 inches below the waist line- ; place the point of the dart rule against the dot made on Scale U, and the edge of the dart nearest to you against the dot made at Scale W, and draw a line on the side of the dart nearest to you ; let the point remain at the same (see illustration 6) New York Self-Instructing System and Chart, ii n~ 1 1 1 I I I II \r I I I Gore Soale. | Front Waist i ; SartScala T. Dart Soala r" V. tifi oiT um no trna khs 4 Dart Scale. V. Dart Soale. W. Dart Soale. X. SCAXmE rux^e. I I I I Oore Soale. Y. I r~i I n 3 S ^ S: CI &! 51 Front Waist S Dart Soale. '^ U. X)TH CO UT&j I Li- New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 13 dot, and move the dart to the dot made on Scale X, and draw a line on the side of the rule from you. Now draft the gore under the arm, which is done by placing the end of the scale rule marked R, at the dot under the arm made at L, with the straight side of the rule toward you, having the other edge touch the dot on the waist line made at Scale Y ; draw a line from one dot to the other, then turn the rule the other side up and draw a line from dot to dot, making the other side of the gore. Take the same rule and place R, on it, at dot made at Scale G, on the Chart, have the straight side toward you, letting the lower end of the other side be against the dot on the waist line made at Scale Z (see illustration 7), and draw a line from one dot to the other ; then dot on this line half an inch up from dot made at Z, and draw a line from this dot to the dot on waist line made at Scale Y, making the waist so much shorter at this place. This part you have just drafted is called the Front Side Body, sometimes the Side Form. You now have the front drafted except the skirt, which must be changed in length and fullness according to the style and fashion. I will give instructions in drafting one about six inches in length in front. Will commence at the small dart by taking the dart rule and measure down six inches from the waist line and dot on the line nearest to you ; measure from you ^ an inch and make a dot ; place the rule at this dot, and let the upper part intersect the dart line toward you ^ an inch below the waist line ; draw a line from there to this dot ; draw no line on the other side, but use the line made in drafting the dart. Next measure down from waist line 5|- inches in the center of the other dart, draw a line across the dart there, dot on this line i an inch in from the dart line on the side toward you, place the rule at this dot, let the other part of the rule New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 15 be placed against the dart line toward you, similar to the line on the front dart, draw a straight line from dart line to the dot, draft a similar line on the other side to a dot i an inch in from the line. Measure down from dot made at 24 on Scale Y, 42 inches (in doing this have the end of the rule even and straight with the line), make a dot, then measure from you with the rule 2 inches, make a dot and draw a straight line from dot made at Scale Y, to this dot, draw a line across the bottom. Measure straight down from dot made opposite 24 on Scale Z, 31 inches, make a dot, then measure from that dot out from you 2 inches, and 2^ for a very full skirt, and make a dot, place the point of the dart rule at the waist line, made ^ an inch above the dot made at 24 on Scale Z, and draw a line on the side from you to the dot. Before drafting- the line for the other side of the skirt, draw a line across the bottom as long as the other part of the skirt. (See illustration 8.) Now cut out both parts of the pattern exactly by the lines ; it will be noticed after cutting out the front part, that there is not paper enough left to draft the other side of the skirt of the side-body, pin this part firmly on to another piece of paper, measure from the place where the dot was made at 24 on Scale Y, 4^ inches straight down and make a dot, then measure toward you i inch and make another dot, place the rule at the dot made at. 24 on Scale Y, on the waist line, and draw a straight line to this dot ; draw a line across the bottom and cut it out, by cutting around the part that was pinned on, making a side-body pattern with a skirt complete. (See illustration 14, page 25.) When the breast measure is more than 6 inches larger than the waist measure, it is a great improvement to round out the line in front from ^ to i inch on each side of the front opposite the fullest part of the bust, tapering it into the front line at the waist line, also to the front line at a New York Self Instructing System and Chart. 17 Directions for Using the point from i|^ to 2 inches below the neck line. Lay a short plate in the edge of the lining opposite the fullest part of the bust, or cut out a 22II^::==* shape piece i- an inch wide, and 2 A inches long ; sew it up. Either will have the tend- ency to straighten the front line and still retain the fullness across the bust. This should be done on the linino^, not on the outside material. (See illustration 14, page 25.) DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING A DRESS PATTERN. Take the measures the same and draft both front and back of the waist the same as a pattern for a basque, omit- ting to draft the skirt. Make the waist ^ an inch longer under the arm than the measure, and i inch longer in front than the waist-line ; cut it off at the waist ; observe the same rules as in cutting a basque pattern. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE BACK OF THE BASQUE PATTERN. Draw a line i inch from the edge of the drafting paper as long as is necessary for the pattern. Lay the Chart even and straight with this line (see illus- tration 9), dot opposite 32 on Back Neck Scale M, draw a line by the Chart from this dot to the line in front ; be sure the Chart is even and straight with the line in front, then dot opposite 32 on Back Scale N, also at 32 on Back Scale O, and dot at 32 on Back Scale P, drop the top of the Chart to dot made at Scale N, letting it lay at dot made at Scale M, and draw a line from one dot to the other for shoulder line. Place O, at dot made at Back Scale P, lettino- the edg-e of the Chart touch the dot made at 32 on Scale O, and Scale N (see illustration 10), draw a line from dot on Scale N, to dot on vScale P. New York Self-Instructing System and Chart, sq 20 Directions por Using the I I t I r I T I I — r- BICK Wlisr SCILE. hi? s ft|«ES lis RT7X.S. ^J New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 21 Take the dart rule and measure straight down from dot made at Scale P, 8r inches, making the back ^ of an inch lono^er than the front. (In drafting the back, when the waist measure is 24 inches or less, make the back the same length of w^aist as the front, when the waist measure is between 24 and 28 inches, draft the back ^ of an inch longer than the measure for the front ; between 28 and 32, draft the back ^ of an inch longer than the front measure.) Lay the dart rule at right angles with the line in front, having the end even and square with that line, having the right edge of the rule at the dot made for the length of the waist, draw a line from this dot to the line in front, move the rule down to the right of this line, have the edge by the side of it, and the square end of the dart rule even with the front line (see illustration 11), and dot on back Waist Scale 6, opposite 24 and Scale 8 at 24, for the width of the back on waist line. Place the mark on the side of the Chart opposite figure 5, at the dot made opposite 32 on Back Scale O, having the lower edge at the dot made opposite of 24, on Back Waist Scale 6 on waist line (see illustration 12), draw a line from dot to dot. Place the end and side of scale rule marked R, at dot made at Scale P, having the straight edge of the rule toward you, the other side at the lower end at the dot on the waist line, made opposite 24, on Back Waist Scale 8, and draw a line from one dot to the other. (Before drafting the skirt, measure the side seam of the front, and make this line the same length by raising the waist line higher or making it lower the whole width of the back. Be sure and measure down on the front only to the upper waist line, leaving off the ^ inch there as shown in the drafting.) 22 Directions for Using the New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 2 The drafting of the skirt of the back of the basque is done by measuring straight down from the dot on waist Hne made at 24 on Back Waist Scale 6, 5I inches ; then measure from that dot i inch from you, make a dot and draw a straight line from dot made at Scale 6 to this dot ; then measure down 6^ inches on the front line from the waist line ; then measure i inch toward you, make a dot and draw a straight line from the waist line to this dot, and draw a line across the bottom. Measure down from dot made opposite 24 on Scale 8, 4 inches and make a dot, then measure from that dot out from you i inch — sometimes more ; make a dot and draw a straight line from dot made at Scale 8 to this dot. Before drafting the line for the other side of the skirt, draw a line across the bottom as long as the other part of the skirt. (See illustration 13-) Now cut out both parts of the pattern exactly by the lines. It will be noticed, after cutting out the center part, that there is not paper enough left to draft the other side of the skirt of the side-body. Pin this part firmly on to another piece of paper ; measure down 5^ inches from the place where the dot was made on Scale 6, and make a dot ; then measure toward you 2 inches (for a full skirt, more) and make another dot. Now place the point of the dart rule at the dot made at Scale 6 on the waist line, having the edge toward you ; touch the last dot, and draw a slightly curved line from one dot to the other. Draw a line across the bottom and cut it out by cutting around the part that was pinned on, making a side-body pattern with a skirt complete. (See illustration 14.) Should you wish the skirt shorter on the sides than in front and back, you can cut it off to suit the style and fashion. 26 Directions for Using the DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING A LINING BY THE PATTERN. The pattern should be cut out exactly on the lines made in drafting, also the darts. Cut the front first ; commence by placing each piece of the pattern separately on a double thickness of good silicia or other firm material, in such a manner that the thread of the material will run straight with the waist line ; pin it so that it will be firm ; then run a tracing wheel all around it, close to the edge of the pattern ; make the impression so that it can be plainly seen on both sides of the cloth. Allow 2 inches on the front line in drafting the front, and I inch on the back line in drafting the back, when none is allowed on the pattern for the spring in the center of the bottom of the back, and for width across the bust ; allow i an inch for seam all around the edge, except the neck and arm-hole, there allow nothing. Do not cut out the darts till the garment is being made. In cutting a lining to a sleeve from the pattern, have the threads of the lining run straight with a line across the sleeves at the elbow. The lining and sleeve should be 2 inches larger than the arm-hole, and the fullness sewed in around the top of the sleeve for a plain coat-sleeve, and more than 2 inches allowed and fulled in for a full sleeve. DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING AND BASTING THE MATERIAL. Lay each piece of the lining on the material so that the thread of the lininir will run straio-ht with the thread of the material, and both straight with the waist line. Baste all around and near edge of each piece, and both sides of the darts, and make stitches not less than five to the inch ; cut the material a little larger than the lining ; do not cut out the darts till the material is being made. New York Self Instructing System and Chart. 27 Baste the right side first, commencing at the top of the darts and baste down on the Hnes made by the impression of the tracinof wheel. Next, baste the side-piece onto the front, by the impres- sions made for the seam under the arm, commencing at the upper part and baste dowm. Baste the darts on the other side of the front, commence at the top of the darts and pin them together by the lines made by the tracing wheel ; have the pins not over 2 inches apart, and baste from the bottom up ; pin the side-piece and front together, by com- mencing at the top and pin down, but baste from the bot- tom up. Now baste the side-piece' onto the back, commence at the upper part and baste down, baste the other side-piece onto the back, by commencing at the upper part and pin it toward the bottom, by the impressions made by the tracing wheel, and baste from the bottom up. The shoulder seam of the back should be i an inch longer than the shoulder seam of the front. Now baste the shoulder seam of the back onto the front, commence at the neck and have the ends even, then full in the i inch on the back onto the front, so that the other ends will be even when basted, be sure and have your seams even, and the basting on the line made by the tracing wheel. Baste the side-pieces of the front and back together under the arm, commencing at the top ; baste the side-pieces on the other side together by commencing at the upper part, and place the ends even, and pin them together down to the bottom by the impressions, commence at the bottom and baste up, now join the other shoulder seams togf.;ther by commencing at the neck and pin together, at the same time full in the i inch of the back onto the front, baste from the other end toward the neck. Observe the same rules in cutting and basting a sleeve, always have the ends even at the top before basting. 28 Directions for Using the The same directions used in basting a basque, will apply to basting a dress. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING A SLEEVE PATTERN. Take four measures : 1. Hold the arm nearly level with the shoulder, and at a right angle at the elbow, and measure from the arm-hole on the back to the elbow, from there to the wrist, set down your measure. 2. Measure around the arm close to the body, about as tiorht as desired when the sleeve is made. 3. Measure around the arm at the elbow, with the arm in the same position as when the length was taken. 4. Measure around the hand. The measures for this pattern are length 23 inches, around the arm 1 2 inches, around the elbow 1 1 inches, around the hand 8 inches. Draft the upper part first, and commence by taking a sheet of heavy drafting paper and draw a perpendicular line on the left side about 10 inches long, mark it J, then meas- ure with the dart rule 24 inches toward the right, and draw another line of the same length and parallel with the first line, and mark it F, then draw a line near the edge of the paper from line J to line P. Lay the end of the sleeve rule at H, even and square with the line J, also with the line from J to P, then dot on line from J to P, opposite A, B, C, D, move the rule to the right so that A, will be even with line P, and dot on the line at the left end of the rule, and mark it O. Draw a perpendicular line to the dot made at A, and mark it K, draw one at B, and mark it L, draw a line at C, and mark it M, draw one at D, and mark it N, setting these letters by the lines. Now place the sleeve rule by the side of line J, the end at H, even and square with the line from J to P, then dot New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 29 opposite figure 3 on line J, dot on line K, opposite figure 5, dot on line M, opposite figure 2, place the rule on line N, and dot opposite figure 5 and on line P, and dot at figure 4. Place H, on the sleeve rule at the dot made on line J, and draw a line to the dot on line K, then turn the rule over and draw a line from the dot on line J, to the dot at the bottom of line L, place B, on the sleeve rule on the dot made on line L, and draw a line to the dot on line M, then move B, on the rule to dot on line M, and draw a line to dot on line O. Place B, on the sleeve rule at dot on line N, and draw a line to dot on line P, place the dart rule at the dot on line N, about 2 inches from the small end and the other end and the side toward you at dot on line K, draw a line from one dot to the other. Take the same rule and draw a straight line from dot on line P, to dot at the bottom of line O, cut it out by the out- side lines. (See illustration 15.) DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE UNDER PART. Take the other part of the paper or another piece and draw a perpendicular line on the left side of the paper, about 8 inches long and mark it Q ; then measure to your right 21 inches, being 3 inches shorter than the upper part of the sleeve, then draw a perpendicular line parallel with the other, and mark it V ; then draw a line near the edge of the paper, from one line to the other. Now lay the end of the sleeve rule, marked H, even with the line O, also with the other line and dot opposite E, F, G ; then place line on rule marked E, on line marked V, and dot at the end of the rule, draw a line to this dot parallel to line V, and mark it U. Draw a perpendicular line to dot made at E, and mark it R ; draw one at dot made at F, and mark it S ; draw a line at dot made at G, and mark it T. New York Self-Instructing System and Chart. 3 Place the rule by the side of line O, the end at H, even and square with the other line and dot opposite figure 8. Move the rule to line S, and dot opposite figure 6 ; move the rule to line T, and dot opposite figure 9 ; move the rule to line V. and dot opposite figure 7. Place I, on rule at dot on line O, and draw a line to the dot at the bottom line R ; place B, on rule to dot on line R, letting the other end be at dot on line S, and draw a line from dot to dot ; move the rule and draw line from dot on line S, to dot on line U ; place the same side of the rule at dot on line T, and draw a line to dot on line V. Place the dart rule at the dot on line T, about 2 inches from the small end, the other end, and the side toward you at dot on line O, draw a line from dot to dot ; with the same rule draw a line from dot on line V, to dot on line U. Cut it out by the lines on the outside. Should you wish a larger pattern, add to the fore-arm seam an equal on both sides, never allow any on the other sides ; to make it smaller, cut it off equal on the fore-arm sides. To make it longer, add equal to both ends ; to make it shorter, cut it off equal at top and bottom. (See illustra- tion 16.) DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING SKIRTS. Take four measures — Length in front, as long as the skirt is desired ; Length at the side of the skirt ; Length down the back ; and Size around the waist. The width of the bottom of the skirt should be equal to twice the length of the side measure, and sometimes more- When the waist measure is 24 inches, take gores off the length of the front breadth on both sides, so that what remains wdll be 15 or 16 inches wide at the top. Directions for Using the System. Take a gore off the length of each side breadth of suffi- cient width so that the remaining part will be only 7 or 8 inches wide at the top. Take a gore off at the top of each of these from the straight side, 2^ inches wide at the top, tapering to a point from 12 to 15 inches down from the top. Take no orore off from the back breadth. To prevent the skirt from drooping in front, cut the front part half an inch shorter in the centre at the top, slanting it toward the sides, in such a manner that there will be noth- ing taken off there. The straight side of the side gores should be sewed onto the front part, and the goring sides onto the back breadth. Parties wishing to become agents for the sale of this SelfTnstructing System and Chart, will receive a circular giving the wholesale price-list, also full directions how to remit money and other valuable information, by addressing THE BRIGGS CHART CO., Albany, N. Y. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 061 910 3 I This System and Chart is published only by the Briggs Chart Company, located at Albany, N. Y. This company was incorporated according to the laws of the State of New York, in March, 1889, for the expres':^'' purpose of publishing, introducing and selling this System and Chart in every city, village and town in the United States and Canada. The officers are : D. B. BRIGGS, SARAH L. BRIGGS, J. M. BRIGGS, President. Vice-President. Secretary and Treasurer. ^1889^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 061910 3