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 lember 21, 1915 
 
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OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 BY 
 
 Helen Parker ^Villard 
 
 Pasadena, California 
 
 1915 
 
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 ,W7 
 
 
DEDICATION 
 
 To our children 
 
 HENRY AUGUSTUS WILLARD, 2nd 
 
 WILLIAM BRADLEY WILLARD 
 
 SARAH KELLOGG WILLARD 
 
 this little book is affectionately dedicated 
 
 by their Mother, 
 
 hoping it may bring to them 
 
 pleasant memories of a wonderful trip, 
 
 and revive in their minds 
 
 never to be forgotten joys and pleasures 
 
 of their first journey 
 
 to foreign lands. 
 
 HELEN PARKER WILLARD 
 
 Pasadena, California 
 1915 
 
ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 
 
 OUR family party, consisting of my husband, myself 
 and three small children, with two caretakers, left 
 Walpole. New Hampshire, on the afternoon of January 
 27th for Boston and, two days later — January 29, 1910 — 
 we sailed from that port on the S. S. Cretic, White Star 
 Line, for Naples. It was our first trip abroad, and we 
 were all filled with excitement over the novel experience. 
 After the excitement of getting on shipboard and being 
 located in our various state-rooms, the next thing that 
 interested us most was getting our mail. I was, indeed, 
 most fortunate ; for my steamer letters numbered twenty- 
 one and, by proxy, I had with me every member of my 
 family, as well as letters from many friends and others 
 who had sent us beautiful flowers, books and boxes of 
 candy, to enjoy, if conditions permitted, during our 
 voyage. 
 
 Our first really thrilling experience occurred just after 
 boarding the steamer. Little William Bradley, in his de- 
 sire to explore the steamer, had wandered off and com- 
 pletely disappeared from us all, and no one knew where he 
 was. Pandemonium reigned and our consternation was 
 indeed great ; for any moment our steamer was ready to 
 sail, and we did not know whether the little fellow was on 
 shipboard or not. I was so afraid he had wandered off 
 the boat in the confusion of so great a crowd. We were 
 all about frantic, and each one started off in a different 
 direction to search for our missing boy. Fully half an 
 hour had elapsed before the little fellow was discovered 
 
10 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 standing on the steamer just near the gang-plank, ab- 
 sorbed and interested in watching all that was going on. 
 Later, when questioned as to why he had gone off alone, 
 he said in a most unconcerned and complacent way, "I 
 wanted to see the big boat." I was then debating in my 
 
 HELEN AND HARRY 
 
 own mind if this was to be my daily experience for six 
 months traveling abroad with three small children. Was 
 the trip going to be one of pleasure or filled with care and 
 constant anxiety ? Already I was wishing we were all 
 safely at home. 
 
ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 
 
 11 
 
 We sailed right out into a hard, disagreeable rain and 
 wind-storm, and the sea was very rough and rolling. 
 Everybody had been on deck only a short time, when, 
 one by one, they disappeared rapidly to their state-rooms. 
 The boat was now pitching and rolling worse than ever, 
 
 HENRY AUGUSTUS, SARAH, WILLIAM BRADLEY 
 
 and, although I was determined not to give up, I found 
 I, too, had to succumb to the inevitable. We all had a 
 long and severe attack of mal dc mer, excepting Harry, 
 and we did not make our reappearance on deck again for 
 three days, when the sunny skies and smooth seas tempted 
 
12 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 us to leave our stuffy state-rooms. 
 
 Today we have all been glad to take part in the sports 
 on deck. Harry and I played some exciting games oi 
 shuffle-board and the children greatly enjoyed the games 
 arranged for them. The potato race was particularly 
 amusing and entertaining. After our games, Henry 
 
 FUNCHAL 
 
 Augustus quite surprised our fellow travelers by reciting 
 Barbara Frietchie. This he did unusually well for a child 
 of his age, and won the admiration and commendation 
 of all. 
 
 After more than six days of the same sky and sea for 
 scenery, we were much excited over the announcement 
 
ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 
 
 13 
 
 that one of the big islands of the Azores was sighted and. 
 in the afternoon, onr steamer anchored in the harbor of 
 Ponta Delgada. St. Michaels is the largest of the nine 
 islands, composing the group known as the Azores, and 
 tli 3 principal town on this island is Ponta Delgada. The 
 sea was very rough and the landing was both difficult 
 
 OX-SLEDGE, FUNCHAL 
 
 and perilous. Small boats came out to our steamer, and 
 the passengers were obliged to descend on a ladder of 
 some forty or fifty steep steps. Each person was assisted 
 by the sailors into the small row-boats, and with fifteen or 
 twenty passengers in a boat they were rowed to the quay 
 and. after seeing some of our fellow passengers dis- 
 
14 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 embark, my courage failed me and I decided not to go 
 ashore ; but Harry and the two little boys made the trip. 
 
 As our steamer approached Ponta Delgada, it im- 
 pressed me as the prettiest and most fairy-like place I 
 had ever seen. The predominant color of the houses was 
 white with red tile roofs, snugly nestled on the mountain- 
 
 READY FOR A RIDE 
 
 side. The language spoken at Ponta Delgada is Portu- 
 guese, and little English is heard. 
 
 A two-days* sail from the Azores, and we arrived 
 February sixth at the island of Madeira, where we dis- 
 embarked at the town of Funchal, and we were indeed 
 
ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 15 
 
 glad of the opportunity to get off the steamer. What a 
 strange and foreign place it is ! The most extraordinary 
 and novel sight and experience in Funchal were the drives 
 in the curious ox-carts and the toboggan slides through 
 the narrow and crooked streets of the town. Funchal is 
 built on the side of a mountain ; so the streets are all very 
 steep and are covered with small, smooth, round stones, 
 making toboganning great sport. The novel and huge 
 basket in which seven of us were seated was guided by 
 two natives to the base of the mountain. The ride was 
 a thrilling one, and appealed strongly to the children's 
 sense of enjoyment and enthusiastic delight. The habit 
 of tipping, so prevalent all over Europe, had begun. 
 These primitive Islanders were quite as eager for money 
 as their fellow-men on the continent, and many times was 
 our ride interrupted by their plea for pennies. The streets 
 in Funchal are queer, narrow and very crooked. The 
 windows in the houses are covered with iron bars which 
 serve as a protection against the hard winds, as well as 
 against thieves. This is where the famous Madeira wine 
 is made. Vegetation has a most luxuriant growth and 
 the gardens are both extensive and varied in their tropical 
 productions. The banana tree and the sugar cane are 
 grown here in great abundance. 
 
 This morning we were called at five o'clock ; for our 
 steamer was now rapidly approaching the famous Rock of 
 Gibraltar. We were soon all out on deck, and surely we 
 had arrived there at just the right moment ; for day was 
 just dawning and the early morning light behind this 
 colossal and noble rock, withal so still and quiet, made 
 it a most impressive sight. This rock has the appearance 
 of a great weather-beaten, sleeping lion that had been 
 carved and hewn by the giants of time. Our ship 
 anchored about five miles from the quay, and, as the land- 
 ing here was again made in small boats, I remained on the 
 steamer with the two younger children. Harry and 
 
16 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Henry Augustus went ashore and visited the town of 
 Gihraltar. 
 
 Sailing out of the harbor and through the straits of 
 Gibraltar, we entered the blue and quiet waters of the 
 Mediterranean. Now we have our first glimpse of Spain 
 and Africa, and the far-distant, snow-capped Sierra Ne- 
 vada mountains. Daylight gradually fades, and the sun- 
 set is a rare sight, and rarer still is the marvelous after- 
 glow, Nature producing one of the most exquisite cloud 
 pictures I have ever seen. 
 
 Late in the afternoon of February tenth, we landed at 
 Algiers for a few short hours only. After landing, Harry 
 secured a good, comfortable carriage, and we then drove 
 through the old Arab portion of the city, this being espe- 
 cially interesting ; for here we see the dark, narrow, mys- 
 terious-looking streets and scenes. Algiers is strictly 
 Oriental with its Moors and Arabs in their strange, yet 
 picturesque, and almost grotesque-looking costumes. 
 
 Another day's voyage over a lonesome sea brought us 
 our first view of Italv. 
 
NAPLES 
 
 After two whole weeks on the Cretic, today we sailed 
 into the beautiful Bay of Naples, and we find ourselves 
 surrounded by the volcanic islands of Capri and Ischai, 
 
 BEAUTIFUL BAY OF NAPLES 
 
 with the grand and always smoking Vesuvius in the fore- 
 ground, which make it an awe-inspiring picture. It was 
 not until dark that we landed at Naples and here, passing 
 through the Custom House, was an ordeal never to be 
 
18 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 forgotten. We were besieged on all sides by a howling 
 mob of fakirs and vagabonds, who importuned us to buy, 
 or insisted on being our couriers. Although they could 
 not speak English, the first words we heard were "Penny! 
 Penny ! Money ! Money !" and, in fact, all the time we 
 were in Naples we heard the sad and pathetic plea. 
 
 From our steamer we went to the Royal Hotel, delight- 
 fully situated on the Bay of Naples. We had now joined 
 the Bureau of University Travel Party, under the leader- 
 ship of Dr. H. H. Powers, for travel in Pompeii and 
 Egypt, and today we began our sight-seeing in Europe. 
 After a strictly continental breakfast of rolls, honey, 
 coffee or cocoa, we started forth in quest of knowledge. 
 We spent the morning in the National Museum, where 
 we saw the representation of Greek mural decorations 
 that had been excavated after the final eruption of Vesu- 
 vius which destroyed Pompeii and Herculaneum. Never 
 have I spent such a profitable and pleasurable morning. 
 The treasures we beheld included exquisite Roman mos- 
 aics and bronze ornaments excavated at Pompeii. 
 
 After spending the morning in the Museum, this after- 
 noon we had an opportunity to see Naples. It is a beauti- 
 fully located city, surrounded by the most lovely bay in 
 the world. It is truly a city of squalor and splendor and, 
 with its bustling Via Roma, it has many attractive thor- 
 oughfares and fascinating shops. 
 
 Pompeii. 
 
 Pompeii is about fifteen miles from Naples and, early 
 this morning, with the Powers party, Harry, Henry Aug- 
 ustus and I started forth, leaving William and little Sarah 
 with the caretakers at Naples until our return. After 
 traveling by train for two hours and a half, and passing 
 over lava beds, and with Vesuvius always in sight, we 
 reached Pompeii where we trudged through the deserted 
 and desolate streets of this doomed city. The long. 
 
NAPLES 
 
 19 
 
 dreary walk through these impressive ruins was an expe- 
 rience never to be forgotten. We first visited the mu- 
 seum at Pompeii, which contains the skeletons of human 
 beings, also those of dogs and horses, that had been 
 found under the ruins. One of the interesting ruins of 
 the town is the Basilica, where the king resided. Here 
 
 POMPEII 
 
 the mural decorations are all well-preserved. Pompeii 
 was partially destroyed by an earthquake 63 A. D., at the 
 time of Nero, and sixteen years later was totally de- 
 stroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. The ruins 
 of the Temple, theatre, streets and Roman buildings are 
 of unusual interest. The most interesting place in Pom- 
 
20 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 peii is the excavation of the Colonnade, and from here one 
 has an extensive view of the vast ruins. Of all the ruins 
 in Pompeii the house of Vettio is the most famous and 
 interesting- ; for it was excavated only ten years ago and 
 everything was found intact. A Roman dining-room, 
 genuinely artistic, is here seen, with its beautiful, bright 
 red frieze of cupids and a masterpiece of chariot-races. 
 We saw where the excavations of Heculaneum were go- 
 ing on. The exterior of the House of Pansa is very 
 interesting and artistic. 
 
 From Pompeii we started to drive ten miles to Cava ; 
 but we had gone only a few miles when our carriage 
 collided rather disastrously with a market wagon, and 
 our conveyance was so demolished that we were obliged 
 to take the train. Indeed, we all had a narrow escape. 
 Harry was seated on a high seat in front with the driver 
 and was thrown out. Fortunately he landed right on top 
 of the fat fellow and thus escaped injury. The ladies 
 were all tumbled out on top of each other ; but we, too, 
 escaped being hurt. The poor horses are all so tired 
 from being overworked that they could not possibly run 
 away. I think the drivers in Italy are the most cruel and 
 careless I have ever seen. After spilling us all out, our 
 enraged driver, with his very limited knowledge of Eng- 
 lish, tried to make us pay for his broken carriage. We 
 felt too indignant to give him even a pour boire and hur- 
 ried away, leaving him standing in the midst of a great 
 crowd that had congregated, talking and gesticulating in 
 a most characteristic Italian manner. 
 
 Amalfi. 
 
 This perfectly radiant morning we started on the fam- 
 ous Amalfi Drive. This road is the most marvelous piece 
 of engineering in the world, being literally carved out of 
 solid rock and stone from the steep mountain-side. It 
 extends fortv miles from Cava to Sorrento. This beauti- 
 
NAPLES 
 
 21 
 
 ful and far-famed drive skirts the Mediterranean and 
 gives us superb views of the blue sea and the snow- 
 capped mountains in the distance. The picturesque Ital- 
 ian villas, with their tiny houses perched upon the moun- 
 tainside, resemble bird-nests more than actual dwelling 
 places. There are many steep cliffs rising abruptly and 
 
 AMALFI 
 
 towering hundreds of feet above us. The orange and 
 the lemon groves are numerous here. Amalfi is a charm- 
 ing and secluded little spot. We took luncheon at the 
 Amalfi Monastery Inn, which is located very high upon 
 the side of the mountain, commanding a most extensive 
 and glorious view of the Mediterranean. 
 
22 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 We continued our drive to Sorrento and arrived here 
 just in time to see a most beautiful and brilliant sunset 
 over the Bay of Naples, with Mount Vesuvius in the 
 distance. We spent the night at the Hotel Tramontano, 
 where we were told by the proprietor all the crowned 
 heads of Europe have been royally entertained. It was 
 
 MAKING MACARONI 
 
 here, too, that the poet Tasso was born in 1595, and his 
 room is carefully preserved. 
 
 The next morning it rained so hard that, much to cur 
 disappointment, our excursion to the Island of Capri, 
 which is famed for its Blue Grotto, had to be abandoned. 
 We spent the morning in the attractive shops where I 
 
NAPLES 23 
 
 purchased some Roman silks, scarfs, and picture frames 
 made from the beautiful Sorrento wood. We returned 
 to Naples by trolley, passing through many large groves 
 of olive trees. We had a fine view of F. Marion Craw- 
 ford's attractive villa, situated on this beautiful bay. 
 
 Our stay in Naples was now ended and, after an early 
 lunch, we were ready to start for our steamer. However, 
 before reaching there, we had an experience I shall never 
 forget. Everyone who has traveled in Europe knows 
 how overcrowded the big hotel busses always are. The 
 passengers are crowded inside and the baggage is piled 
 so high on top that one wonders it stays on at all. Two 
 busses arrived to take our party of twenty-four to the 
 steamer. The first one was filled and drove off ; the 
 next came, and the remaining ones crowded into it liter- 
 ally like so many sardines, and our baggage was placed 
 on top as usual. Harry and the two boys were sitting up 
 with the driver, and Sarah and I, with many others, were 
 inside. 
 
 The horses started and, pulling hard, it looked very 
 doubtful to me if they could draw the heavy load. Going 
 along slowly up a steep hill until they had almost reached 
 the top, the horses all at once refused to go any further 
 — in fact, they simply could not ; for the weight of the 
 heavy bus pulled them backwards down the hill. No 
 one knew what the end would be. The driver whipped 
 and beat his team ; still the big bus kept backing down 
 and down until it was pushed up on the sidewalk against 
 a stone wall, and the wonder was that it stopped there. 
 If it had not, we should have all been dashed to death 
 many feet below. Hurriedly and much frightened we 
 got out of the bus, feeling most thankful that we had not 
 been killed. Harry then hailed a passing carriage, and 
 we drove to the quay, where we boarded our steamer 
 for Alexandria. 
 
EGYPT 
 
 Today we are sailing along on the Celtic, bound for 
 Alexandria. Our voyage takes us past the active vol- 
 cano Stromboli and through the Straits of Messina. A 
 three days' sail from Naples over a lovely smooth sea, 
 and we disembarked at Alexandria. The landing here 
 was made by small tugs. As we stepped on the quay, 
 all was confusion and bedlam. Shouting Arabs, with 
 their red fezes, confronted us, having fake articles to sell 
 of every sort, and demanding "backshiesh." Never be- 
 fore have I seen so many beggars and such abject poverty. 
 After stopping at the Custom House, the officials pro- 
 ceeded to look into our bags ; then we started on a drive 
 around the city of Alexandria. We saw many queer, 
 narrow, and oh! such dirty streets. The only object of 
 interest to us was the miscalled Pompey's Pillar. This 
 pillar was erected in honor of Diocletian, a "Roman em- 
 peror. 
 
 In the afternoon we took an express train for Cairo, 
 arriving at this largest and most important city of Egypt 
 at six o'clock. How soon we knew we were in the land 
 of the desert ! The country has such a strange peculiar- 
 ity of its own, and it is a desolate waste of barren, parched 
 and unproductive soil. 
 
 Just before we reached Cairo, poor little Sarah had 
 the misfortune of getting a cinder in her eye. Well, it 
 was indeed most painful for the little tot, we all realized ; 
 but there was little we could do for her relief, and a 
 good, hard cry finally washed the cinder out. Sarah, 
 
EGYPT 
 
 25 
 
 LANDING AT ALEXANDRIA 
 
Jo 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 however, insisted on having' her eye well bandaged. 
 After getting out of the train, and as we started to walk 
 along, someone exclaimed : "Oh ! look at the camels." 
 Sarah instantly snatched off the bandage — her eye was 
 cured ! 
 
 Cairo has a population of more than 1,000,000 inhabi- 
 
 YIEW OF CAIRO FROM CITADEL 
 
 tants. Our party was here divided into two parts : the 
 first one starting on their trip up the Nile, while our 
 party remained in Cairo. We found the city in great 
 confusion and turmoil, because today — February JOth — 
 the prime minister, an Egyptian, had been assassinated 
 by Arabs. 
 
EGYPT 
 
 27 
 
 OLDEST MOSOUE IN CAIRO 
 
28 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Our first drive through Cairo led us to the Mosque of 
 Mohammed Ali, and then to the Citadel, where we ob- 
 tained a fine view of Cairo, the pyramids, the great desert 
 and the river Nile. 
 
 The houses in Cairo are all of one color — that of the 
 surrounding desert. The Mosque of Mohammed Ali is 
 
 FIRST MOSOUE VISITED 
 
 the most modern of all the mosques in the city. It is of 
 Byzantine architecture and is very imposing in appear- 
 ance with its many lofty and graceful minarets. Before 
 entering, we had to remove our shoes and put on sandals. 
 Costly and beautiful rugs cover the floors and everything 
 about the structure is most elegant and Oriental. 
 
EGYPT 
 
 29 
 
 CAIRO FROM NILE BRIDGE 
 
30 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Egypt has always been a land of wonder and mystery. 
 We gaze at it with awe and reverence for its great age ; 
 with amazement at its pyramids, giant statues, tombs and 
 temples. The pyramids are one of the Seven Wonders of 
 the World, and their building is a problem that can never 
 be solved ; for there is no machine in existence even today 
 
 
 CHEOPS AND SPHINX 
 
 powerful enough to raise those colossal stones to their 
 place in tbe stupendous piles. 
 
 To night we made our first and memorable trip to 
 the Pyramids by moonlight. What an impressive sight 
 it was ! Their tremendous size and the great stillness 
 and solemnity were most impressive. There are three 
 
EGYPT 
 
 31 
 
 CLIMBING CHEOPS 
 
32 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 great pyramids of Gizeh : the largest is Cheops. Then 
 there are two smaller ones, and the Sphinx stands smil- 
 ing silently near by. The Great Pyramid was built 
 three thousand years before Christ. It is four hundred 
 and sixty feet in height and covers thirteen acres. It 
 was built at the time of Herodotus and was started by 
 
 fe- . *ta*«m^4*i ^U * ._ ,J&£A', .^kaM 
 
 ' -^"■*"' ^^ *»"l* .'' ■&%'*& "•MBBlSIf a 
 
 
 
 RETURN OF SACRED CARPET FROM MECCA 
 
 Cheops, their ruler. It took 100,000 men twenty years 
 to build it, and it is now five thousand years old. The 
 Pyramids are the tombs of the chief rulers of Egypt. 
 
 A drive through the narrow and dirty streets of old 
 Cairo gave us an idea of how terribly unhealthy and un- 
 civilized the Egyptians are. The children become blind 
 
EGYPT 
 
 33 
 
 because their ignorant and heathenish parents consider 
 it a sin to brush Mies from their faces, and these breed 
 many terrible diseases. 
 
 We also visited today an old mosque where Christ is 
 supposed to have been hid with Joseph and Mary when 
 they took their flight into Egypt. We then went across 
 
 PLOW IXC IX EGYPT 
 
 to the island of Roda. It was here, legend says, Phar- 
 oah's daughter found Moses in the bulrushes. We then 
 visited another mosque, where we saw and heard an 
 Arab on the roof of a mosque giving the call to prayer. 
 February 23d. Today is father's and mother's forty- 
 fifth wedding anniversary; so naturally my first thought 
 
34 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 this morning was to send a greeting by cablegram to 
 them. The clocks in Cairo are twelve hours earlier 
 than Washington time. On my return home, I was grati- 
 fied and surprised to hear that my message from the far 
 distant Orient to the Occident was the first family greet- 
 ing of the day to reach father and mother. 
 
 In Cairo one sees so many different nationalities in 
 their varied and picturesque costumes that the street 
 scenes present almost a kaleidoscopic effect in their rapid 
 and ever changing appearance. 
 
 Our next visit was to the Arab university. On our way 
 there we had our second unpleasant experience with 
 careless and reckless driving. Our driver, in crossing a 
 car-track, pulled off a wheel from our carriage. For- 
 tunately our vehicle was a very low one ; nevertheless we 
 were all tumbled out one on top of the other and, if the 
 horses had not stopped, we might have had a very serious 
 accident. The Arab university is a strange, weird place. 
 There we saw groups of old men and boys of all ages 
 squatted on the floor learning their Koran. Religion is 
 their one and only thought, and they think more of the 
 dead than of the living. Each group of students has its 
 own teacher. Their only book is the Koran, and every- 
 thing they study is in that book. The course of study in 
 the University comprises six years — that time being re- 
 quired to master the Koran. Among the fifteen hundred 
 students there was only one woman and she was allowed 
 there because of her knowledge of the Koran. They do 
 not want women in the University, and do not think they 
 should be educated. 
 
 Today we made our second trip out to the Pyramids. 
 We each mounted a donkey, preferring them to the camels, 
 and this was great fun — especially for the children. I do 
 not know which they enjoyed more, the donkeys or the 
 donkey boys. 
 
EGYPT 
 
 35 
 
 OBELISK AT HELIOPOLIS 
 
36 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 On the morning' of February 26th, we had the rare 
 opportunity of viewing" the military and spectacular pro- 
 cession of bringing the Sacred Carpet from Mecca. This 
 day is always a holiday in Cairo. The shops are closed 
 and the best part of the Egyptian populace gather at the 
 square near the Citadel to behold the wonderful proces- 
 sion, which is thoroughly Oriental. The pilgrimage from 
 Cairo began three months ago, when the new carpet was 
 started on its journey. This was exchanged for the old 
 carpet, and today the camel returned with it on its back, 
 enclosed in a large, square and gilt cloth covering re- 
 sembling a temple, with many devout Mohammedans fol- 
 lowing. 
 
 Thousands of marching soldiers and many playing 
 bands made a brilliant and noisy procession. We had a 
 fine view of the Khedive, who saluted the throng of people 
 as he passed in his well-guarded and gilt-adorned carriage. 
 This ceremony occurs every year. 
 
 The new carpet is taken from Cairo and left at Mecca, 
 there being exchanged for the old one, which is brought 
 today to Cairo and put in a mosque. This same ceremony 
 takes place from Damascus to Mecca. 
 
 Today, before leaving Cairo, the children had their 
 first memorable ride on a camel. How eager and anxious 
 they were to mount this great "ship of the desert" — a most 
 faithful and much loved animal by his master ! At last 
 they were seated on the camel's back, full of childish en- 
 thusiasm at the prospect of their ride. The great, awk- 
 ward animal, seated on the ground, started to rise with 
 that long backward, then a similar forward, motion, that 
 is indescribably disagreeable. Instantly shrieks and 
 screams were heard. "Let me off — quick! quick! I'm 
 falling. I don't like this !" was the children's chorus. 
 
 On the evening of February 28th, we left Cairo and 
 took a sleeping car for Luxor. 
 
EGYPT 37 
 
 The following verses were written by a member of our 
 party and so admirably describe our ten days' trip up the 
 Nile on the Pellican that I insert them here : 
 
 Ship we somewheres south of Cairo, 
 
 Through the land of flies and fleas, 
 Where the donkey boys are callin' 
 
 On the trav'ler for backshish, 
 And the temple ruins, standin' 
 
 So thick on every hand, 
 Are drinking up our adjectives 
 
 Like water in the sand. 
 
 On the Nile to Assouan, 
 
 On the good ship Pellican, 
 How the moon comes up in splendor 
 
 O'er the desert hills beyond! 
 
 How the paddle wheels are chunkin' 
 As they churn the muddy Nile ! 
 
 And we're running on a sand bank- 
 Once in every while, 
 
 And the breakfast gong is soundin' 
 When we're hardly half awake. 
 
 While the sky turns pink and yaller 
 As the day begins to break. 
 
 Oh, the joys and thrills of ridin' 
 
 When the evening light grows pale ! 
 And we know the boy behind us 
 
 Will twist the donkey's tail. 
 And the purple shadows lengthen 
 
 And the moon begins to rise, 
 While Canopus flashes on us 
 
 From the starlit southern skies. 
 
 By the old Egyptian temple. 
 
 Looking westward 'cross the Nile, 
 
38 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Stands the leader of our party 
 With a firm, determined smile 
 
 And he is pointin' out the defects 
 In the structures' low relief 
 
 With relentless maledictions 
 That are simply past belief. 
 
 ^ Hiiinn 
 
 
 
 TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSOWET 
 
 Luxor. 
 
 Luxor is built on the banks of the placid and peaceful 
 Nile. This afternoon our entire party — twenty-six in 
 number — mounted our donkeys and soon we were canter- 
 ing off across the wide barren plain to the ruins of the 
 Temple of Luxor and Karnak. The ruins of the Temple 
 
EGYPT 
 
 39 
 
 of Luxor are all that remain of its ancient splendor. They 
 are two miles in circumference and are the largest and 
 finest in Egypt. Luxor Temple was started by Ameno- 
 phis III and finished by Rameses II. One of the obelisks 
 from here was taken to the Place de Concord in Paris, 
 where it now stands. Here we saw the Hypostile, an 
 
 OUR RETURN FROM TOMBS OF THE KINGS 
 
 obelisk showing the rays of the sun. The Temple of 
 Luxor was originally connected by the Avenue of Sphynx 
 and the Temple of Karnak. 
 
 Our visit to Luxor included a stop at the beautiful and 
 attractive gardens of the Luxor Winter Palace Hotel. 
 Harry, the children and I were strolling through these 
 
40 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 gardens when we met a Hindoo, who insisted upon telling 
 our fortunes by reading our palms. It was indeed amus- 
 ing — particularly so as he read the children's palms. After 
 asking where we lived, he told the boys they would some 
 day be president of the United States. 
 
 Tonight we saw our first sunset on the Nile, and the 
 
 TEMPLE OF LUXOR 
 
 colors were truly marvelous. The many clear, transpar- 
 ent pinks, pale blues and golden yellows will be long 
 remembered. 
 
 This morning Harry, Henry Augustus, little William 
 and our faithful nurse, Patsy, and I, with the rest of the 
 party, started out to see the ruins of the ancient city of 
 
EGYPT 
 
 41 
 
 ■h 
 
 i** 
 
 LONE COLUMN, KARNAK 
 
42 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Thebes. To reach these ruins it is necessary to cross the 
 Nile, and surely we encountered great difficulty, even in a 
 small rowboat; on account of the river's many sandbars. 
 After finally getting well over to the other side, the water 
 was so very low we could go no further. Our great, 
 swarthy Arab oarsman leaped out of the boat into the 
 water and, picking each of us up in turn, carried us ashore. 
 As he took me up, he exclaimed, "Oh, you are only a 
 doll!" and then, holding me in one arm, he picked up 
 little William and carried us without the slightest effort. 
 At last we were all safely landed. The donkey boys, with 
 their donkeys, were waiting for us, as our dragoman had 
 arranged with them to meet us, and soon we were on the 
 beasts and off for our long trip of seven miles across the 
 hot, dusty desert to the Tombs of the Kings. What a 
 mass of ruins and desolation greeted us ! Our first stop 
 was at the Temple of Seti I. Then we rode to his tomb, 
 which is the largest and most elaborate in Egypt. The 
 mural decorations represent a series of scenes of sacri- 
 fices ; also long, sacred snakes bearing mummies on their 
 backs. The building of these Tombs extends many hun- 
 dreds of feet underground. In visiting one Tomb we had 
 to descend more than three hundred feet, and saw the 
 gruesome sight of a mummy king in his sarcophagus that 
 had been excavated only in 1898. 
 
 How terribly thirsty we all were after our long ride 
 through the hot sun and sand ! But there was no water 
 anywhere. Suddenly a small boy appeared with a basket 
 of oranges, and how quickly they disappeared, even 
 though we had to pay the exorbitant price of a piastre 
 apiece ! In our money this would be twenty cents. 
 
 Assouan. 
 
 On March 5th after lunch we went by train from Luxor 
 to Assouan, a long, seven hours' ride. Most of the time 
 we were crossing the Great Desert of Sahara, and I have 
 
EGYPT 43 
 
 never experienced such dust as filled the car on that jour- 
 ney. Most of the way the scenery was monotonous and 
 yet interesting, because it was so different from any we 
 had yet seen. We passed through many Bedouin villages, 
 where we saw a motley collection of Arabs — men, women 
 and children — huddled together with their donkeys and 
 camels. A noticeable feature of the Egyptian is his love 
 for brutes, which he respects far more than his wife and 
 children. 
 
 Arriving at Assouan in the late afternoon, a short walk 
 brought us to our steamer Pellican, which was to take us 
 on our trip down the Nile. How cool and lovely oitr 
 steamer seemed after so much discomfort on the train ' 
 
 Tonight we have another wonderful sunset on the Nile, 
 and after once having seen the splendor of a sunset in 
 the Orient it can never be forgotten. The delicate, dain- 
 ty, clear colors are indescribably beautiful. There is 
 something in the balmy softness of the air that makes Hfe 
 in Egypt dreamy and fascinating to the traveler. The 
 first thing one notices in Egypt is the peculiarity of the 
 country, there being an entire absence of anything green. 
 In many parts of Egypt no rain ever falls, and the soil is 
 irrigated by the River Nile overflowing its banks. Is it 
 any wonder the Egyptian worships Father Nile ? A very 
 primitive and much used way of irrigating is the pole and 
 bucket of the shadoof. 
 
 Assouan is six thousand miles from New York. What 
 a long distance we are from home ! It is the southern 
 limit of Egypt proper, and seldom does any tourist travel 
 beyond this point. The town of Assouan is clean and 
 attractive and is unlike the usual dirty, noisy Egyptian 
 village. There are many beautiful palm-trees growing 
 along the river banks. The streets of the town are dotted 
 with the pretty, feathery foliage of date palms. The ba- 
 zaars are strange, picturesque and fascinating. In them 
 
44 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 is found a conglomeration of beads, antique jewelry, em- 
 broideries, cashmere shawls, and, in fact, every kind of 
 quaint curio. 
 
 A wild and savage-looking race of people is seen here. 
 Their hair is very long and a terrible mass of tangies. 
 They seem never to have it cut or combed. The children 
 
 THE BIG DAM AT ASSOUAN 
 
 are mostly nude. Often, when walking through the 
 streets of Assouan, we would see a train of camels com- 
 ing noiselessly along, laden with sacks of huge stones. 
 
 Assouan is famous for the big Dam at the first Catar- 
 act. The genius of English engineers has transformed 
 the Assouan cataract into a mighty reservoir which gives 
 
EGYPT 
 
 45 
 
 PYLON KARNAK 
 
46 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 water to the heart of dried-up Egypt. This dam is one 
 mile long and, for four years, a great army of men 
 labored to erect this great granite wall. There are a 
 hundred and eight gates or sluices that let the water out, 
 when needed, into the lower river. 
 
 After visiting this big Dam, we rowed across to the 
 
 PHAROAH S BED, PHILAE 
 
 beautiful ruins of the Island of Philae. These ruins are 
 under water most of the year, when the Dam is flooded. 
 It seems like desecration for these fine ruins to be so sub- 
 merged ; as, in time, they must crumble away into the 
 reservoir. 
 
 After lunch, we had a most delightful row around Ele- 
 
EGYPT 
 
 47 
 
 phantine Island. A crew of eight natives rowed our boat 
 between the great black rocks and huge boulders that filled 
 the river and surely suggested anything but Egypt to our 
 minds. However, had it not been for these rocks it would 
 have been impossible to have built the Dam. Our oars- 
 men took turns in entertaining us, playing on their tom- 
 
 PVLON, PHILAE 
 
 torn, dancing and chanting a weird refrain. On Ele- 
 phantine Island are the ruins of the ancient Nilometer, 
 which once indicated the rise and fall of the river. To- 
 night we all watched from our steamer a most glorious 
 and brilliant sunset. 
 
 At noon todav the Pellican started on its ten davs' 
 
48 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 cruise down the River Nile. The custom of the Nile 
 steamers is to travel by clay and to tie up at night, on 
 account of the many sand-bars. After gliding quietly 
 and gently along for three hours, our first stop was at the 
 ruins of the Temple of Kom-Ombo. The excessive heat 
 prevented me and many others of our party from going 
 
 CARAVAN LEANING FOR KHARTOUM 
 
 ashore ; but we could see plainly the ruins of this fine tem- 
 ple from our steamer, as they stood near the shore and on 
 a high bluff. 
 
 Our next excursion was to Edfu ; but little Sarah was 
 sick and I would not leave her, though I wanted to go 
 ashore and view the ruins. Thev are said to be the largest 
 
EGYPT 
 
 49 
 
 and best preserved of any of the Egyptian ruins. 
 
 The next temple we visited was that of Denderah, which 
 was in splendid condition. When our boat anchored, a 
 crowd of donkey boys, with their donkeys, were waiting 
 for us ; as our dragoman had told them of our coming. 
 There is always much confusion and arguing among the 
 
 PART OF PARTY AT PJ1ILAK 
 
 donkey boys before getting started on our excursion to 
 any ruins. Today, after a longer discussion and delay 
 than usual and after much noisy talking and gesticulating 
 on their part, little William said rather impatiently: "I 
 wish you would speak American — I don't understand 
 Ensflish." The donkey boys made a srreat fuss over our 
 
50 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 children, as so few children travel through Egypt. They 
 called them "Skiddoos," Harry "George Washington" 
 and me 'Mrs. American," and the donkeys "Automobile." 
 This seemed to be the extent of their English. 
 
 out for a walk 
 
 Denderah 
 
 At last we mounted our donkeys and a short ride 
 brought us to the temple of Denderah. This temple is in 
 a fine state of preservation and remains almost intact. 
 After entering the temple, we then proceeded up several 
 
EGYPT 
 
 51 
 
 flights of stairs to the roof, where we had a splendid view 
 of the Great Desert, the River Nile and surrounding coun- 
 try. On the wall outside the temple is the famous relief 
 of Cleopatra and her son, Csesarion. 
 
 READY FOR A RIDE 
 
 Abydos. 
 
 Our steamer anchored next at Belliana, and then a trip 
 of seven miles brought us to the sad and dilapidated ruins 
 of the temple of Seti T at Abydos. This temple was built 
 in 1300 B. C. and is more than three thousand years old. 
 
52 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Its mural decorations are particularly fine. The relief 
 of Seti I is a real work of art. There are man)- chapels 
 connected with this temple. Their colors still remain as 
 bright as those of any gaily painted picture book. 
 
 PROFESSOR CLARK ON PELLICAN 
 
 Assiut. 
 
 We arrived at Assiut at noon today. As soon as the 
 Pellican anchored, the natives rushed down to the shore, 
 just near the boat, and spread out their wares, which con- 
 sisted of pottery made out of mud from the Nile. We 
 
EGYPT 
 
 53 
 
 saw many small children and women making lovely span- 
 gled net shawls. Harry bought me a large, beautiful 
 white one with the characteristic Egyptian hieroglyphics 
 on it. This afternoon we drove out to the Tombs, cut 
 
 ON THE GANG PLANK 
 
 out of solid rock. We entered the dark openings with 
 lighted candles, but the inscriptions were illegible. The 
 view from these Tombs is very fine. Assiut is called the 
 Town of Minarets. 
 
 We then visited the soldiers' tombs, where we saw the 
 
54 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Egyptian Department of Antiquities. At that time exca- 
 vations and collections for museums were being made, and 
 we saw lots of mummies that had been just excavated. 
 
 All day we have been sailing along without making 
 any stops, until tonight, when we anchored at Benihasen. 
 
 r * ^i 
 
 > .: — — 
 
 4 
 
 - rf 
 
 ' 1 ■ ™ 'TIT* 
 1 ■■■ 
 
 1 
 
 
 TEMPLE OF KOM 0MB0 
 
 This morning, after a few hours' sail, we had quite an 
 unfortunate experience ; for our boat struck its first sand- 
 bar. The entire crew, including the captain, were out in 
 the river tugging and pulling at the steamer as hard as 
 they could. Finally, after a five hours' delay, we got 
 
EGYPT 
 
 55 
 
 THE SACRED BOAT RELIEF ON FRAGMENT OF WALL 
 
56 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 started again. This afternoon, wind and weather being 
 favorable, we made up some of onr lost time. 
 
 This morning our boat anchored at Sakkara. A long, 
 hot walk across the desert brought us to a canal. Here 
 we were ferried across. A choice of conveyances awaited 
 
 TEMPLE MUTT KAMET 
 
 us : camels, donkeys and the broad-wheeled sand-carts. 
 Harry, Henry Augustus, William and I chose the cart, 
 and soon we were all started, driving through the dirty 
 village of Bedrachin, then through some palm groves and 
 over sand-hills to the sad and solitary ruins that marked 
 
EGYPT 
 
 \ *. 
 
 
 PYLON DENDERAH 
 
58 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 the site of what was once the city of Memphis. A short 
 ride further through an avenue of columns which extended 
 to a flight of steps that led to the stupendous statue of 
 Rameses II. To say this is the largest statue in Egypt 
 will convey no idea of its gigantic size and enormous 
 
 WONDERFUL STATUE OF RAMESES II. 
 
 weight. The length of the statue is about fifty feet ; the 
 ear measures three feet. 
 
 Tombs of thf. Kings. 
 
 Leaving this mutilated colossus of Rameses II, we 
 cross a plain to a mass of high cliffs — a most deserted 
 
EGYPT 
 
 59 
 
 and desolate spot — the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings. 
 Ascending these bare and wild rocks, we were surprised 
 at their grandeur. As we advanced, we found ourselves 
 in a long gallery opening into successive halls and rooms 
 covered with brilliant colors as fresh today as they were 
 
 IN THE RAMESSEUM 
 
 a thousand years ago. They are really gorgeous palaces 
 hewn out of the rocks. Every Egyptian king seems to 
 have built his own sepulchre. 
 
 It was the evening of our last day on the Pellican, and 
 long we lingered to watch the loveliest of sunsets over 
 this mvstic land. 
 
60 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 TOMBS OF MAMELUKES 
 
 COLOSSI OF MEMXOX 
 
EGYPT 
 
 61 
 
 TYPICAL SAIL-BOAT ON NILE 
 
62 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 We anchored at Cairo the next afternoon and, early the 
 following morning — March 16th — we took train for Alex- 
 andria. Henry Augustus and his father, with Patsy, 
 sailed for a week's trip to Sicily, after which they joined 
 us in Rome. 
 
 William, Sarah, their governess and I sailed for Naples 
 
 SUNRISE OVER STRAITS OF MESSINA 
 
 on the S. S. Prinz Heinrich. Tonight we passed Mt. 
 Aetna just as the golden sun was sinking, and soon after 
 we were sailing through the Straits of Messina by moon- 
 light. The next morning we anchored at Naples after a 
 most enjoyable voyage. Each passenger, before disem- 
 barking, had to pass before the Health Officer, who merely 
 glanced at us as we passed by. 
 
ROME 
 
 Leaving Naples at ten a. m., we arrived at Rome four 
 hours later. There was little of interest en route, except- 
 ing the beauty of the Italian scenery, with snow-covered 
 mountains and the fresh, summer-like appearance of the 
 fertile valleys. On the train we were glad to meet some 
 Americans. After conversing with them for a while, they 
 asked Sarah where her home was, and she, in a somewhat 
 disconsolate tone, replied: "I used to live in Washington, 
 but now I don't know where I live." 
 
 We were delightfully located at the Flora Hotel, just 
 adjoining the beautiful gardens of the Pinciana. The 
 children were wild with delight to have these gardens to 
 run and play in after being so long on board ship. Think 
 of being in Rome — Rome, the Eternal City ! I cannot 
 realize it even now. A city that it has always been my 
 dream and desire to visit ! How familiar we are with the 
 pictures of St. Peter's, the Colosseum and the Forum ! 
 Now, as we gaze upon them in reality, it is like greeting 
 old friends. 
 
 After lunch, we drove to the Lateran Church and, this 
 being Holy Week, service was being held there. It is 
 one of the finest and most sacred churches in Rome. It 
 is the church of the Pope, as Bishop of Rome, and here 
 his coronation takes place. On the piazza and in front of 
 the edifice stands the Obelisk of the Lateralis, which is a 
 hundred and fifteen feet high and was brought from the 
 temple of Heliopolis in Egypt. It is the oldest Obelisk in 
 Rome. Near the Lateran church stands a small chapel 
 
64 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 containing the Scala Santa, or Holy Stairs, and legend 
 says these were trodden by the feet of Jesus. They were 
 brought from Jerusalem by the Empress St. Helena, and 
 no one is allowed to ascend them, except on their knees; 
 so, following this custom and in devout meditation, we 
 ascended the twenty-eight steps on our knees. 
 
 This morning we spent in St. Peter's. It has been 
 truthfully said that this is the largest and most beautiful 
 church in the world. Our first glimpse was the one that 
 is so familiar to us all from photographs. The beautiful 
 dome; the great, broad piazzas, and the tall, foaming 
 fountains on both sides, with the sun shining from a cloud- 
 less sky, was a sight of rare impressiveness. The interior 
 is one of magnificence and beauty and surely is beyond all 
 powers of description. Walking up the long nave, we see 
 the rarest and richest of marbles, art in statues and the 
 finest works of art in mosaics adorn the walls. The ceil- 
 ing is a rich canopv ablaze with gold. One cannot meas- 
 ure the great distances in St. Peter's and, only by con- 
 trasting the living, moving monuments, can we form any 
 idea of its colossal proportions. One can gaze up into 
 the dome and read purple mosaic letters that are six feet 
 in length on a gold ground. Near the altar is the famous 
 bronze statue of St. Peter sitting in a chair ; in one hand 
 holding the keys of heaven, while the other is in an up- 
 lifted position. The great toe of the statue is worn 
 smooth by the kisses of the many pilgrims to its shrine. 
 
 This morning we drove to the Piazza del Popolo, where 
 we were interested in seeing the many different divergent 
 streets. In the center there is an obelisk brought from 
 Egypt, and around it are four fountains. 
 
 From the Piazza del Popolo we walked up to the high 
 hill of the gardens, from which point we had a glorious 
 view of Rome. At the foot of these gardens Nero was 
 born. 
 
ROME 65 
 
 This afternoon we visited the church of St. Maria Mag- 
 giore. The interior was particularly impressive and har- 
 monious. Along each side of its magnificent nave there 
 are twenty-two beautiful, big Ionic columns with a frieze 
 of mosaic pictures representing scenes from the Old Testa- 
 ment. The entire wall behind and over the chancel is in 
 exquisite mosaics. Directly in front of this church stands 
 one single, beautiful Corinthian column with a bronze 
 figure of the Virgin Mary on its top. 
 
 This morning we strolled through the lovely Pinciana 
 Gardens to the Museum ; but unfortunately it was closed. 
 Then we visited some of the attractive shops before re- 
 turning to our hotel. 
 
 This is Easter morning, and I was awakened by the 
 musical chimes from St. Peter's. Ever since our arrival 
 in Rome the weather has been cold and very windy. To- 
 day, however, is ideal for Easter. The children and 1 
 attended Easter service at St. Peter's, where the singing- 
 was superb. Although thousands of people thronged the 
 church, it did not seem crowded. 
 
 This afternoon we strolled through the Borghese Gar- 
 dens where we saw Roman aristocracy driving and walk- 
 ing. We then visited the church of St. Maria del Popolo 
 which contains many fine paintings. One of the small 
 chapels in the church was designed and decorated by 
 Raphael, and an exquisite painting of his Nativity hangs 
 over the altar. 
 
 This morning we spent in the superb Sistine Chapel in 
 the Vatican. The entire ceiling is truly magnificent. It 
 contains exquisite frescoes by Michael Angelo. I like 
 especially the scenes in the center of the ceiling, from the 
 Old Testament, and the frescoes of the prophets. The 
 Last Judgment occupies the entire space at one end of 
 the chapel, and was not as pleasing to me as many others. 
 From here we drove to the church of St. Pietro in Vincoli 
 
66 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 — St. Peter in chains — where we saw the masterpiece 
 statue of Moses by Michael Angelo. The gigantic figure 
 is seated in a chair, with his long beard flowing below his 
 waist and his horned head and eyes so full of fire looking 
 as if he were to rise up and shout laws, thus producing 
 chaos and confusion rather than giving peace to all the 
 world. Near the altar we saw the chains that are sup- 
 posed to have bound St. Peter in prison. 
 
 This morning we walked to the Pantheon, the best 
 preserved of all the ancient buildings in Rome. It is a 
 most impressive structure. In front there are sixteen 
 great granite columns that are forty-five feet high. The 
 interior has an immense rotunda, and the only light in 
 the building comes from an opening in the center of the 
 great dome. It was built as a pagan temple, but later 
 was consecrated as a Christian church. This entire struc- 
 ture, when built, was covered or encased in white marble ; 
 but only pieces of that now remain. The Pantheon is 
 the burial place of Italy's celebrated and gifted men, 
 Raphael's tomb being conspicuous among the rest. 
 
 After visiting the Pantheon, we went to the church of 
 St. Maria Sophra Minerva, the only important Gothic 
 church in Rome. Its columns are all imitation of marble. 
 There is a painting in one of the chapels, said to be the 
 work of Fra Angelico. The statue of Christ, by Michael 
 Angelo, is very fine. In one of the chapels, over the altar, 
 hangs a beautiful painting — a head of Christ — by Peru- 
 gino. 
 
 Today we set out to see the beautiful palace of Berber- 
 ini, also the art gallery that contains some very fine paint- 
 ings. Our interest here, however, was centered in the 
 two beautiful portraits of Beatrice Cenci by Guido Reni. 
 In the palace we saw an exquisite statue of Innocence 
 by Canova. 
 
ROME 67 
 
 Then we went to the Cappuccini Church, where we saw 
 the magnificent paintings by Guido Reni of the Archangel 
 Michael trampling the Devil. Our guide, a Cappuccini 
 monk, then had us descend to the Chapel of the Dead, 
 where we saw skulls upon skulls, placed one upon the 
 other, covering the entire wall. We also saw perfect 
 skeletons of monks in their robes. Frescoes in the ceil- 
 ing were formed of different bones and chandeliers were 
 made out of skulls, producing a most horrible and grue- 
 some sight. 
 
 Tt is just two months and two days since we left Bos- 
 ton, and I have today received my first mail since T have 
 been in Europe. Our mail was delayed after we changed 
 our plans and decided to take the trip to Egypt. We did 
 not have any mail forwarded from Paris until we returned 
 to Italy. How eagerly I devoured each and every home 
 letter! Mother sent me several postals from Texas, 
 where she had gone on account of Ed's sickness. I had 
 such a good letter from father, and one from Anna told 
 me the good news that she expects to sail about June first 
 for Europe, and will meet Ruth in Paris — I hope to join 
 them as soon as possible. Other warmly welcomed let- 
 ters were received from Will, Belle, Ezra, Brainard, 
 Lucy, and one from Cousin Beckie Henderson. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the Quirinal Palace, where 
 the king and queen of Italy reside. We there caught a 
 glimpse of the Crown Prince, who was riding horseback 
 in the palace grounds. On our way back to the hotel, we 
 stopped at the shops and purchased postals and photo- 
 graphs of Rome. 
 
 This has been an interesting and strenuous day spent 
 at the Capitoline. In the piazza in front of the Capitoline 
 is the finest bronze equestrian statue in the world, and is, 
 perhaps, one representing the most beautiful character in 
 
68 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 history — Marcus Aurelius. Marcus Aurelius is sitting on 
 his steed, with his hand stretched forth not to utter a 
 command, but a benediction. In the Hall of Sculpture 
 we saw many fine busts of the world's most illustrious 
 men — Julius Caesar, Cicero, Homer, Socrates, and a beau- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 GWEDA, HENRY AUGUSTUS, WILLIAM BRADLEY 
 
 tiful bust of Marcus Aurelius as a little boy. In the 
 center of one room is the noble and pathetic figure of the 
 Dying Gladiator. Another gem of this room is the Fawn 
 of Praxitiles, a statue of a young man leaning against the 
 stump of a tree, his only covering a lion's skin. The 
 
ROME 69 
 
 entire figure is marvelously graceful. Among the other 
 statues worthy of note are a fine Greek sculpture of Venus 
 and a bronze figure of a boy extracting a thorn from his 
 foot. Here is also seen the bronze wolf with the small 
 figures of Romulus and Remus. In the Art Gallery we 
 saw the painting, so beautiful in form and color, of St. 
 Sebastian by Guido Reni ; also two fine Vandykes. 
 
 How glad we were today to welcome Harry and Henry 
 Augustus and Patsy back from their two weeks' trip to 
 Sicily ! What a wonderful trip they did have ! Henry 
 Augustus rushed into the room with a bound and greeted 
 me by saying: "Maminear, I have a watch and my first 
 pair of suspenders, and now 1 am a man!" (He is just 
 seven and a half years old.) 
 
 This morning Harry, the children and I walked through 
 the beautiful Rorghese Gardens to the Art Gallery and to 
 the Hall of Statuary. As we were strolling through the 
 Hall of Statuary little William said: "Maminear, are 
 these all brothers and sisters, and which is the father and 
 mother?" In this Hall is a fine statue of the Princess 
 Borghese, a sister o f Napoleon I ; also a Venus by Canova 
 which is considered one of his best works. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the church of St. Maria del 
 Popolo, then drove to St. Peter's, where we saw several 
 babies being baptized. Later, we attended a service in 
 the chapel. Just at the hour of sunset, we drove to the 
 church Trinita del Monte and heard a song service by the 
 French Nuns. As we came out of the church, the sun 
 was just sinking behind the purple hills of Rome, and 
 what a superb sight ! 
 
 Today we drove to the American University, to give 
 our letter from Cardinal Gibbons to Father Brandi, in 
 order to have an audience wifh Pope Pius X. Then we 
 drove to the Vatican, but were too late to be admitted. 
 However, we were told that word would be sent us when 
 to return. 
 
70 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 This afternoon we made onr first trip to the Colos- 
 seum. It is one of the largest theatres ever built, and 
 surely it is a colossal and impressive ruin. Tier after 
 tier of seats extend to its very top ; its walls are pierced 
 with innumerable windows and other openings ; its great 
 arena, where gladiatorial combats took place, is entered 
 
 THE COLOSSEUM 
 
 by trap doors from beneath — here the wild animals were 
 kept in dungeons. 
 
 Today we visited the church of St. Maria in Aracoeli. 
 Here we saw the strange and famous image of the Bam- 
 bino, an immense painted doll richly decorated with bits 
 of jewelry — necklaces, rings, etc. The Bambino repre- 
 sents Christ as a child. 
 
ROME 71 
 
 This evening while at dinner we were quite excited 
 when told there was a messenger from the Vatican. We 
 knew he had come to arrange for our audience with His 
 Holiness, the Pope. 
 
 Early this morning with our papal costumes in readi- 
 ness, Harry, the two boys and I started for the Vatican. 
 A black dress and a black lace veil for the head, and no 
 gloves, are the customary costume ; also a dress suit for 
 Harry and white neckties for the little boys. After ar- 
 riving at the Vatican, we were ushered through several 
 richly decorated rooms ; then, waiting for some time, we 
 were shown into a red room containing only a very large 
 chair covered with red and gold. With about twenty 
 other persons we were asked to stand, take hands and 
 form a circle. Soon his holiness entered, when we all 
 knelt. The Pope walked slowly around, and each one 
 of us took his hand and kissed his seal ring. He spoke 
 French to the little boys and patted them on their cheeks. 
 After he had walked around the circle, he stood in the 
 center and gave us his blessing in Latin, blessing "all 
 present — all families represented and all in mind." It 
 was a great and solemn occasion. The Pope is a dear old 
 man, and I do not wonder that all Rome love him as they 
 do. He was dressed in a long flowing white robe and 
 wore a small white cap. 
 
 We walked through about ten or more rooms. The 
 Pope was giving audiences in four different rooms and, 
 in some, there were over a hundred people ; so we were 
 fortunate in our small number. 
 
 Today, also, we visited the Corsini Art Gallery, where 
 we saw many famous and beautiful paintings. I liked 
 best the Madonna and Child by Murillo, and Vandyke's 
 portrait of himself. Then we crossed the street to the 
 Farnesia Palace. Here the walls are embellished with 
 famous frescoes by Raphael. 
 
72 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Afterwards we went to the Cardinal's Church, or St. 
 Maria in Trastevere, which is richly decorated. Its floor 
 is entirely covered with mosaic marbles. Today, also, we 
 viewed the ruins of the Forum. We saw. the famous 
 fragments of historic Roman temples. Conspicuous 
 among these is the Arch of Constantine and the Arch of 
 Titus. After Julius Caesar was assassinated by Brutus 
 in the Pantheon, his body was brought to the Forum and 
 cremated. Here, likewise, Mark Anthony delivered his 
 famous funeral oration. The plan of St. Peter's is copied 
 from the Basilica of Constantine in the Forum. 
 
 Today we set out to see some of the churches. First 
 we drove to the St. Giovanni Laterano, and then I vis- 
 ited for the second time the Scala Santa. Harry, Henry 
 Augustus, little William Bradley and I ascended, as is 
 the custom, the Sacred Stairs on our knees. When Harry 
 was about half way up the stairs, his hat dropped out of 
 his pocket, and no one discovered it until we were all at 
 the top. The little boys were much amused, and started 
 to go back after it ; but the indignant guide would not 
 allow them to. Later, however, little William Bradley 
 started at the foot of the stairs again on his knees and at 
 last rescued the hat for his father. The episode made us 
 almost hysterical with laughter, but the solemn, sober 
 guide did not appreciate the joke. 
 
 We then drove to the St. Maria Maggiore and to the 
 St. Lorenzo. These churches contain many beautiful 
 paintings. 
 
 This morning I spent in the attractive and fascinating 
 shops. In the afternoon Harry and I attended a lecture 
 on the Palatine Hill. We walked through the ruins 
 while listening to the speaker. Among the ruins of in- 
 terest was a Roman house, and the Stadium that stood 
 between the palace of Augustus and that of the emperor 
 
ROME 73 
 
 Nero. Nero, one of the most cruel emperors, burned 
 Rome, and, while the Eternal City was in flames, this 
 lawless ruler played his fiddle. The Golden House of 
 Nero was the most magnificent ever built. 
 
 Today we made the delightful excursion to Tivoli, 
 traveling" by train along the ancient road running through 
 the Campagna. Our first stop was near a milk-white, 
 strong-smelling sulphur stream. A short ride further 
 soon brought us to the Villa d'Este, where we walked 
 through beautiful and extensive gardens filled with wild 
 flowers, fountains and running streams. It was in these 
 gardens Tasso and Shelley wrote their exquisite poems. 
 We then drove through the town of Tivoli, and around 
 a great ravine where we viewed the colossal water-falls 
 sending forth their silvery spray. A drive along the 
 famous avenue of cypress trees brought us to Hadrian's 
 Villa, where we explored the imposing rooms of one of 
 the biggest palaces ever built. 
 
 This morning Harry and I went to the Rospighliosi, 
 where we viewed with great delight Guido Reni's famous 
 painting, Aurora. It occupies the entire ceiling of one 
 room. The soft and harmonious colors in the superb 
 figure of Aurora scattering roses as she seems to be 
 sailing along on the golden clouds is, indeed, exquisite. 
 While Apollo is being drawn in his chariot, one can easily 
 imagine the hurry, and the tumult of the clashing chariot. 
 What a noble piece of work Guido Reni has here pro- 
 duced ! 
 
 After this, we drove to the Vatican Art Gallery, which 
 contains many masterpieces. We gazed with admiration 
 on some of Raphael's works of art : the Annunciation, 
 the Holy Family, and the Transfiguration — his last work, 
 as the death of the great artist occurred soon after its com- 
 pletion — this famous painting hung over his death-bed. 
 Paintings of other noted artists we liked were Guercino's 
 
74 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Incredulity of St. Thomas ; Murillo's Adoration of the 
 Shepherds ; and Titian's Madonna and Saints. 
 
 Today we took the drive along the Appian Way, where 
 we saw the ruins of many famous tombs. Here, also, is 
 the Circus Maximus and the Arch of Drusus under which 
 St. Paul and St. Peter passed on their way to Rome, 
 where they were taken prisoners. We then drove to the 
 Quo Vadis church on the Appian Way. This is where, 
 tradition says, our Lord appeared to St. Peter, saying : 
 "Domini, quo vadis?" This church contains a beautiful 
 statue of Christ by Michael Angelo. Over one foot is 
 a covering of bronze protecting it from the kisses of 
 ardent tourists. 
 
 Our next stop was at the church of St. Sebastian, where 
 we saw a beautiful statue of St. Sebastian over his own 
 tomb. He is represented as lying down, with four arrows 
 piercing his body. From here, with lighted tapers, we 
 entered the dark and narrow passages of the Catacombs 
 which cover five hundred miles. I had a thrilling expe- 
 rience here ; for, just as we were about to enter the 
 Catacombs, a lady walking directly in front of me set fire 
 with her candle to her hat, and it was all ablaze in a 
 moment. Instantly I put my hand on the flame just in 
 time to prevent any serious results. 
 
 After leaving the Catacombs, we visited the magnifi- 
 cent Basilica of St. Paul's, outside the walls. The altar 
 is of beautiful mosaics, and the nave, with its four rows 
 of great Corinthian columns, numbering one hundred, is 
 most impressive. Seventy-four portraits of the Popes 
 form a frieze around the top of the walls. 
 
 We stopped next at the English cemetery, where we 
 saw the graves of the two great English writers — Shelley 
 and Keats. Shelley was drowned ; but, his body having 
 been found, the grave contains his heart. Keats died with 
 the request that no name should be put on his tomb, but 
 
ROME 
 
 75 
 
 that he desired this inscription : "Here lies one whose 
 name was writ in water," meaning it would soon fade 
 away. 
 
 After lunch we had a beautiful drive up around the 
 Garibaldi statue ; then we drove to the church of St. 
 
 TIIK CHILDREN AT PLAY 
 
 Cecelia, which contains a beautiful and richly decorated 
 chapel beneath it. Here also is what is supposed to have 
 been the home of St. Cecelia. 
 
 This morning Harry and I stopped at the stores and 
 purchased a beautiful water-color of St. Peter's. Tn the 
 
76 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 afternoon we went with the children's little Italian friend, 
 Gweda, out to the Pinciana Gardens and enjoyed watch- 
 ing the sports there. There is much more recreation in 
 the parks in Rome than in America : priests, students, and 
 every one join in playing baseball, football and other 
 games. The band played and all Roman aristocracy 
 turned out. 
 
 The children had a fine ride through these gardens in 
 a miniature coach drawn by two small donkeys. 
 
 Tonight Harry and I went out to see the illuminations 
 of the Colosseum. What a wonderful and weird sight it 
 was ! Red, green, yellow and purple lights illuminating 
 the hundreds of dark places at the same time. 
 
 This morning we drove to the Keats-Shelley Memorial 
 House ; but found it closed ; then we made our second 
 visit to the Corsini Art Gallery and feasted our eyes on 
 Murillo's exquisite Madonna and Child which occupies 
 one small room. Then we paid a parting visit to St. 
 Peter's. 
 
 On our way back to the hotel we stopped at the Castle 
 St. Angelo, where we climbed to the top and had a fine 
 view of Rome. This was built for Hadrian's tomb an 1 
 was also used as a prison. 
 
FLORENCE 
 
 This morning we were all up bright and early, ready 
 to make our departure for Florence. Gweda, our little 
 Italian friend, came to the train to see us off. En route 
 
 FLORENCE FROM SAN MINIATO DRIVE 
 
 there was a great deal of beautiful Italian scenery to be 
 enjoyed. After a long six-hours' journey, we arrived at 
 Florence very tired. 
 
 We are staying at the historic and interesting Villa 
 
78 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Trollope, the favorite stopping place of many well-known 
 English and American writers. Among them we may 
 mention George Eliot, who wrote most of Romola here ; 
 Robert Browning, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Nathaniel 
 Hawthorne, Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, and Frances 
 Hodgson Burnett. Florence is a most attractive city, 
 and it has been well named the "City of Flowers," for 
 they are here in great profusion. 
 
 This morning we visited the studio of Mr. Larkin 
 A fead. the sculptor. He had a most exquisite piece of 
 statuary, called The Recording Angel, that Harry pur- 
 chased as a memorial to his father and mother, to be 
 placed in the Westminster family lot in Vermont. Later 
 we drove to the Piazza Michael Angelo, where we saw a 
 fine bronze statue of David by Michael Angelo. 
 
 After lunch, we had a delightful drive through the 
 Boboli Gardens. We wandered through the vistas of tall 
 arching trees until we reached the highest part of the 
 gardens leading to the tower. From here we had a su- 
 perb view of Florence. 
 
 Pisa. 
 
 After a two hours' ride on an express train, Harry and 
 I arrived at the attractive city of Pisa. A twenty minutes' 
 drive then brought us to the imposing group of buildings 
 that we had long desired to visit : namely, the Campanile, 
 the Leaning Tower, Cathedral, Baptistry and Campo 
 Santo. Our first stop was at the Campo Santo, which is 
 built in the shape of an immense arcade with great arched 
 windows surrounding it. The mural paintings of the 
 Fourteenth Century were most curious, depicting scenes 
 on the solemnity of death. Then we drove to the Bap- 
 tistry, which is built entirely of marble. This contains a 
 beautiful marble pulpit, supported by seven columns; also 
 a great octagonal marble font. Next we visited the 
 magnificent Cathedral. It is built entirelv of white mar- 
 
FLORENCE 79 
 
 ble, inlaid with black marble. The ceiling is richly cof- 
 fered with gold. There are many exquisite paintings to 
 be seen here, and a particularly pleasing one of St. Agnes 
 and the Lamb by Andrea del Sarto. The celebrated 
 Leaning' Tower, erected in 1174, has six distinct sections 
 of columns, decreasing in size to the top; and it is 17 ( > 
 feet high. This tower is much out of the perpendicular, 
 giving it a leaning appearance. We did not notice the 
 slant on going up ; but coming down, it made us qtiite 
 dizzy. From the top we had a fine view of Pisa and the 
 surrounding country. 
 
 St. Marco. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the famous monastery of St. 
 Marco. After entering, we lingered for some time in the 
 cloister, which we found a most attractive and delightful 
 place. We then went into the different chapels and saw 
 many beautiful frescoes by Fra Angelico, and especially 
 the magnificent Crucifixion in the Chapel House. We then 
 ascended the stairs leading to many cells. Here one sees 
 the lovely Annunciation and St. Domini, embracing the 
 Cross, by Fra Angelico. They are both painted on the 
 walls of the corridor. 
 
 As we further visited the different cells, we saw Fra 
 Angelico's most exquisite frescoes, painted on the white- 
 washed walls during his life in the monastery. Then we 
 visited two small cells that were of deep and great inter- 
 est, having been occupied by Savonarola. On the wall 
 hangs the painting showing where he was burned to death 
 — the Palazzo Signorea in Florence. One of these cells 
 contains a picture showing a geneological tree of the 
 monks, and the name of Savonarola is almost obliterated 
 by kisses. 
 
 Adjoining the monastery is the old, gloomy, bare-look- 
 ing church of St. Marco. 
 
 Next we went to the Palazzo Riccardi, which was once 
 
80 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 a palace, as its name indicates. Our chief interest here 
 was the little chapel with its beautiful and gorgeous fresco 
 paintings, representing a procession winding through a 
 rocky country. 
 
 Our next point of interest was the rough-faced, plast- 
 tered church of San Lorenzo. It was here that Savona- 
 rola preached his most stirring sermons, even against the 
 Medicis, who were patrons of the church. Connected 
 with the church is the Medicina Chapel filled with mag- 
 nificent marbles. From here we went to the new Sacristy 
 built by Michael Angelo, which contains his two gigantic 
 and splendid statues of Dawn and Twilight, and Day and 
 Morning. 
 
 Our next stop at the St. Croce Church was most inter- 
 esting as it contains many magnificent monuments of 
 Italy's illustrious men. Conspicuous among them are the 
 tombs of Michael Angelo, who died in Rome in 1564, and 
 that of Dante. 
 
 Bright and early this morning we drove to the Pitti and 
 Uffizi Art Galleries, in which are many art treasures of 
 the world. After going through the Pitti Gallery, we 
 walked under cover all the way across the Arno, through 
 avenues of portraits lining the walls on both sides until 
 we reached the Uffizi Gallery. These galleries contain 
 many paintings by Raphael, the most beautiful and cele- 
 brated being the Madonna of the Chair (Madonna della 
 Sedia). There is a very pretty story connected with this 
 painting, that explains why it is always seen in a circular 
 frame. One day, the great master was strolling through 
 a charming bit of country when he came upon a pretty 
 family group that appealed so strongly to his artistic sense 
 that he paused and gazed upon it. A lovely young mother 
 was seated there and in her arms held a beautiful and 
 rosy babe. Raphael asked permission to draw them as 
 they were grouped and, this being granted, he was ap- 
 
FLORENCE 81 
 
 palled by the discovery that he was without paper upon 
 which to produce his picture. However, a barrel stand- 
 ing near by was put into service and so, upon its rounded 
 top, this famous masterpiece was drawn. 
 
 Fra Angelico's Coronation of the Virgin and the Choir 
 of Angels in this Gallery also appealed strongly to me. 
 
 This afternoon we made the excursion to Fiesole, where 
 we had a magnificent and extensive view of Florence. 
 
 Today we visited with great interest the house where 
 Michael' Angelo lived. This house is most interesting 
 and contains many paintings by Michael Angelo and his 
 pupils ; also many original drawings of his great works — 
 a wax model of the great David and a drawing of his 
 masterpiece, the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in the Vati- 
 can Palace at Rome. The house has been ornamented 
 and preserved by his pupils, in testimony of their admira- 
 tion and gratitude. The contrast was, indeed, great when 
 we next visited the cheerless and barren house where the 
 great poet Dante was born in 1274. We saw two busts of 
 Dante and a beautiful marble bust of Beatrice, his sweet- 
 heart. 
 
 ^> then went to the Accademei Belle Arti and, in the 
 rotunda facing the entrance stands the gigantic and cele- 
 brated David hewn by Michael Angelo in his twenty-sixth 
 year. There are many beautiful old paintings to be seen 
 here. 
 
 Today we went to the English Protestant Cemetery, 
 where Elizabeth Barrett Browning is buried; also Rev. 
 Theodore Parker. 
 
 This afternoon we viewed the Loggia Lanza, built in 
 1376. It is an open, vaulted court and contains several 
 intensely interesting statues in bronze and marble. Then 
 we walked to the picturesque Piazza della Signorea. 
 Here, in front of the beautiful and massive Neptune 
 fountain, is the bronze slab marking the spot where Sav- 
 
82 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 onarola was burned to death. 
 
 We visited this morning' the Cloistro della Scalzo, where 
 we saw exquisite frescoes painted in 1517 by Andrea del 
 Sarto. The scenes are chosen from the life of John the 
 Baptist, and are all done in soft, sepia colors. 
 
 We next visited the church of the Annunziata. It is a 
 large and beautiful structure and contains many gorgeous 
 chapels. Just opposite this church is the Foundling Hos- 
 pital, or Spedale degli Innocenti. The exterior decora- 
 tions of the building are very curious and significant, be- 
 ing covered with blue-colored medallions of infants in 
 swaddling clothes. 
 
 We then drove to the Or San Michele Church, erected 
 in 1337 Around its exterior are many small statues. 
 
 Our next stop was at the St. Maria Novella, where we 
 saw the famous Madonna by Cimabne. 
 
 Another church was the St. Maria Magdalena de Pazzi, 
 where we saw two beautiful frescoes by Andrea del Sarto. 
 The chapel house also contains a beautiful fresco of the 
 Crucifixion by Perugino. 
 
 Today we went to the studio of Mr. Carmichael and 
 arranged with him to paint a portrait of little Sarah dur- 
 ing our stay in Florence. This afternoon we visited the 
 archaeological museum, where we saw many beautiful 
 black vases and bronzes ; also an Egyptian war chariot 
 and a bronze statue of Minerva, found in 1541. Here we 
 also saw an exquisite collection of Florentine tapestries. 
 
 From here we went to the National Museum, or massive 
 Rargello, which was originally built for a palace. W r e 
 walked first out into the colonnade court, which is ex- 
 tremely interesting and picturesque with its rich and 
 effective colorings — a popular retreat for artists. Many 
 noble Florentines have been beheaded in this court. We 
 went into the Chapel Magdalena, covered with frescoes 
 by Giotto. In one of these frescoes Dante is represented. 
 
FLORENCE 83 
 
 We saw in the Donnatello room many beautiful statues — 
 one of St. John the Baptist and two of David. 
 
 In the La Badia Church we saw a masterpiece by 
 Filippo Lippi. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the great Cathedral of St. 
 Marea del Fiore or Duomo, which is located right in the 
 heart of Florence. Its exterior is elaborately decorated 
 in black and white marble ; but there is very little of inter- 
 est in the church. The Baptistry stands nearby. It is 
 a large black-and-white octagonal structure and is entered 
 by large bronze doors built in 1330. Adjoining the Cath- 
 edral stands the Campanile which is the highest and most 
 elaborate tower ever built. 
 
 Today we spent the entire morning on our last visit to 
 the Pitti and Uffizi Galleries, as in two days we leave 
 Florence for Venice. We literally feasted our eyes on 
 these rare masterpieces. One never wearies of Raphael's 
 exquisite Madonna and Child and the many other rare 
 paintings seen here — the Murillos, Titians, Rubens, Rem- 
 brandts, Guido Renis, Vandykes, Peruginos, Filippi 
 Lippis. 
 
VENICE 
 
 This morning we were all up bright and early as we 
 were leaving Florence for Venice. The ride was long 
 and tiresome, covering about eight hours. 
 
 Our arrival in Venice was quite novel ; as our train 
 
 THE RIALTO 
 
 passed over a long bridge or trestle before bringing us 
 to the station. A short walk, and we reached the Grand 
 Canal, where it seemed as if hundreds of gondolas were 
 waiting for tourists. One gondola was large enough for 
 our party of seven, and soon we were gliding" gently and 
 
VENICE 
 
 85 
 
 noiselessly along through the canals of Venice. Oh ! the 
 delight and joy of it all. Surely Venice is an enchanting 
 city, and its novelty is unique — water everywhere — deep 
 and dirty, too, not at all the clean, blue pretty Venice of 
 our imagination. 
 
 This morning, all eager for our first glimpse of the city, 
 
 ST. MARKS SQUARE 
 
 we started out through the narrow alley-like streets that 
 lead to the big, broad, beautiful Piazza of St. Marco. 
 Here the children were well entertained, feeding the many 
 pigeons that flew about. So tame were they that they 
 alighted upon the children's shoulders and ate grain from 
 their hands. Leaving the children with the pigeons, 
 
86 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Harry and I sauntered into the Cathedral of St. Marco. 
 This is truly a gorgeous cathedral with its elaborate deco- 
 rations of gold. 
 
 Then we went to the Dosres' Palace not far distant. 
 
 IN A GOXDOLA 
 
 This is a building of rare architectural beauty and it con- 
 tains many fine old paintings. The well-known Bridge of 
 Sighs adjoins this edifice, and over it many a prisoner has 
 been led to a fearful fate. 
 
 After lunch we took a gondola ride, making a tour of 
 
VENICE 
 
 87 
 
 the Grand Canal. We stopped and visited the church of 
 St. Maria della Salute, where we saw a beautiful paint- 
 ing by Tintoretta, the Marriage at Cana, or the Miracle of 
 Turning Water into Wine. Again we stopped at the 
 
 
 { t<\ 1ft ik i } * 
 
 THE CHILDREN FEEDING THE PIGEONS 
 
 church of St. Georgia Maggiore, where we saw magnifi- 
 cent monuments of Titian, Canova and others. Next we 
 visited the church of St. Toma, containing a masterpiece 
 of Titian. 
 
 We returned to our gondola and stopped now at the 
 
88 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Glass Factory, where we saw many rare specimens of 
 Venetian glass. The guide was much concerned lest the 
 children might break some of their perishable products, 
 
 HARRY, AND THE BOYS 
 
 and requested us to come back another day without them. 
 We then visited the lace factory and saw many children 
 and women making the beautiful Venetian lace by hand. 
 There was considerable excitement yesterday afternoon, 
 
VENICE 89 
 
 caused by the arrival of the royal yacht of England, with 
 the queen on board. It was anchored just opposite our 
 hotel. 
 
 This morning' I spent in tbe fascinating and tempting 
 shops and had just returned to the Regina Hotel fortu- 
 nately in time to see Her Majesty Queen Alexandra, and 
 her party, sail by in gondolas. When little Sarah came 
 in, I was glad to know that she, too, had seen the queen 
 on the Piazzo of St. Marco, feeding the pigeons. 
 
 Tonight Harry and I walked up to the Piazzo St. Marco 
 where everything was brilliantly illuminated. Throngs 
 assembled and made a gay and festive scene. 
 
OBERAMMERGAU 
 
 Tins morning we hastened our departure from Venice, 
 owing to our constant anxiety about the children's safetv, 
 there being so much water everywhere. Our train left at 
 
 BRENNER PASS 
 
 eight A. M. for Lake Garda via Verona and Decenzano, 
 where we boarded the boat for our trip across Lake Garda. 
 The scenery was magnificent with the wild and rugged 
 peaks of the snow-covered Alps in the distance and the 
 
OBERAMMERGAU 91 
 
 water in the lake the brightest and bluest I have ever seen. 
 Lake Garda is one of the largest of the many beautiful 
 Italian lakes. 
 
 Riva. 
 
 We arrived at Riva, Austria, after a three hours' most 
 delightful sail across this lovely lake. Riva is a small and 
 mountainous place, beautifully located on Lake Garda, 
 right in the Alpine region. The hotel is excellent. 
 
 This morning was clear and cloudless and we were all 
 out early for a stroll in the beautiful gardens before leav- 
 ing Riva. At ten o'clock we took a narrow-gauge rail- 
 road to Mori, passing en route much wild and mountain- 
 ous scenery. At Mori we changed cars for Innsbruck, 
 and every moment of the journey was filled with excite- 
 ment. The ride over, through and under the Alps was 
 wonderful and thrilling in its grandeur. From the car 
 window we had a magnificent view of the snow-covered 
 and sharp-pointed purple peaks of the Dolomites. Then 
 we passed on through the marvelous Brenner Pass, pre- 
 senting wonderful landscape pictures through the high, 
 snow-covered mountain vistas. 
 
 After our long journey, we reached Innsbruck at six 
 o'clock. This is a delightful little mountainous town, and 
 the capital of the Tyrol. It lies at the base of lofty and 
 rugged mountains. 
 
 Innsbruck. 
 
 This morning we had just finished breakfast when 
 we heard of King Edward's death. Queen Alexandra 
 reached home from her Italian cruise the night before 
 the king died. 
 
 We took a drive around this pretty little town of Inns- 
 bruck, stopping first at the Hofkirche, which is the West- 
 minster Abbey of the Tyrol, as it is the resting-place of 
 its illustrious dead. The most conspicuous tomb here is 
 that of Maximilian I. It stands ri°ht in the center of the 
 
92 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 church and is surrounded by twenty-eight colossal bronze 
 statues, one being that of King Arthur of England. 
 
 We next proceeded to the Silver Chapel, named from 
 the silver image it contains of the Virgin. Across the 
 street is the Hofburg, or palace, where we were shown 
 through. As we looked out of its windows, we saw the 
 King Regent starting on a horseback ride in his gay uni- 
 form trimmed in red. He rode a beautiful white horse, 
 making a striking appearance. 
 
 Leaving the chapel, we drove to the House with the 
 Golden Roof, richly decorated in rococo style. 
 
 This morning Harry and I braved a storm and went 
 to the Episcopal Church. The snow has fallen thick and 
 fast all day ; so everything is now covered with a white 
 mantle. Having seen no snow all winter, it is strange 
 to see it so late as May eighth. 
 
 Garmisch. 
 
 This morning we started for the shops and purchased 
 some heavy flannels on account of this cold weather. 
 After lunch we left Innsbruck in an automobile for Gar- 
 misch, a distance of forty miles. The first part of the 
 ride was pleasant. We seemed to go right up on top 
 of these wonderful high mountains surrounding Gar- 
 misch ; then conditions changed and we encountered a 
 blinding snowstorm which made it very cold and disagree- 
 able. It was a great disappointment that these fine views 
 were obscured by the unseasonable elements. Garmisch 
 is a petite, picturesque village, superbly situated at the 
 foot of these mighty mountains. 
 
 This morning Harry and Henry Augustus went in an 
 automobile to Oberammergau, where they will spend the 
 night, and tomorrow see the first performance of the 
 Passion Play. Another snowfall and some rain today. 
 
 This evening Harry and Henry Augustus returned 
 from Oberammer°au in time for a late dinner. Thev re- 
 
OBERAMMERGAU 
 
 93 
 
 ported the play wonderful. This has been a perfect day 
 and we have all been out for a stroll. 
 
 Munich. 
 
 This morning Harry and I left the children at Gar- 
 misch and started for a two days' stay in Munich before 
 
 OLD GATEWAY, MUNICH 
 
 going to Oberammergau. On arrival in Munich we se- 
 cured very good accommodations and then took a drive 
 around this beautiful and attractive city. Munich is 
 more like our American cities than any we have yet seen, 
 with its wide, clean and well-shaded streets and its many 
 gardens and parks which strongly suggested our own 
 
94 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 beautiful Washington. The buildings are large and im- 
 posing and there are many handsome homes there 
 
 Tonight we slept under, instead of on top of, a feather 
 bed. Surely we have reached the land of ein, zwei, drei, 
 otherwise known as "Deutschland" — 
 
 "The people live for comfort and dress not too 
 
 grand ; 
 But are healthy, happy, loving Miinchener beer 
 
 and the music of the band." 
 
 We have had terrible times in our sight-seeing with the 
 eingangs and the ait f gangs; for, when we wanted to get 
 out, we invariably found ourselves at the "going in place." 
 
 This morning we first visited the Glyptothek, contain- 
 ing a fine collection of antique sculpture. In the Assyrian 
 room we saw on the walls colossal reliefs of winged and 
 horned genii which were excavated from Nineveh in 
 1843. In the Egyptian room we saw a bronze statue of 
 Horus, the sun god, with which we became so familiar 
 when traveling in Egypt. The most interesting room 
 of all is the ^genitan room, containing groups repre- 
 senting periods following the Persian Wars, 480 B. C. 
 The "Dying Trojan," or the "Fallen Warrior," and many 
 others showing a wonderful perfection in form are among 
 the finest art treasures in Munich. Next we went to the 
 New Pinakothek, which contains a collection of the paint- 
 ings by modern Munich masters. Opposite the entrance 
 stands the gigantic model of Victory. Victory is a large 
 figure of a woman standing in a chariot and driving four 
 immense lions. In one room there are twenty-three 
 Greek landscapes by Rottman. The paintings are dis- 
 tinguished for their unusual transparent light effects. 
 
 Then we went to the Schack Gallery, where are to 
 be seen excellent copies of the old masters, done by 
 modern artists, and one can scarcely tell them from the 
 originals. W r e saw copies of The Concert by Titian, 
 
OBERAMMERGAU 95 
 
 Murillo's famous Madonna and Child, some of Rubens, 
 Vandyke, and some of Michael Angelo's. 
 
 Leaving the Schack Gallery, we drove to the St. Boni- 
 face church, called the Basilica, one of the finest churches 
 in Europe. 
 
 My visit to the Nuremberg toy shops was a real de- 
 light to me. I was glad to see and buy for the children 
 some of these famous and truly wonderful toys. 
 
 Harry and I drove out this afternoon to the English 
 Gardens and there saw a typical scene of German life. 
 Here the Germans indulge in beer while listening in de- 
 light to the music. Later we took train for Oberammer- 
 gau. On our arrival there we received our mail; also a 
 cablegram telling of the death of Mr. Harry Reed. 
 
 Oberammerc.au. 
 
 This morning we were awakened by the ringing of the 
 church bells. Church is held from five to seven in the 
 morning. We got there about six o'clock. Just next 
 to us sat Anton Lang, who takes so admirably the part 
 of Christ in the Passion Play. 
 
 Returning to our pension, we ate our meager break- 
 fast, which consisted of bread, butter and coffee. Prompt- 
 ly at eight o'clock we were seated in the play-house among 
 six thousand people. At noon there is an interval of two 
 hours ; then again the play begins at two o'clock and is 
 over at six. 
 
 The presentation of the powerful Passion Play, given 
 by these simple, pious, Bavarian peasants, brings every 
 decade throngs of tourists from all countries to this ob- 
 scure German hamlet. The scenes in the life of Christ 
 are so devoutly, reverently and earnestly portrayed by 
 these people that one cannot but feel their religious fer- 
 vor. The solemnity of the subject and players from be- 
 ginning to end makes a strong and lasting impression, 
 and no thought of mere "acting" enters the onlookers' 
 
96 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 mind. Four hundred persons — all from this little village 
 of Oberammergau with a population of less than two 
 thousand inhabitants — take part in the play. The chorus 
 and solos were a particularly effective part of the pro- 
 gram. 
 
 On account of the news of Mr. Reed's death, Harry 
 
 VIEW OF OBERAMMERGAU AND PLAV HOUSE 
 
 found it urgent to leave at once for home and decided to 
 take Henry Augustus and Patsy with him. They sailed 
 from Hamburg for New York May nineteenth. 
 
 This morning William, Sarah, their governess and I 
 left Garmisch at nine o'clock, with a coach and four to 
 drive to Fiissen, a distance of forty miles. The children 
 
OBERAMMERGAU 
 
 97 
 
 were delighted with the tinkling" bells around the horses' 
 necks and the long, beautiful squirrels' tails hanging on 
 their ears. The drive was a glorious one through can- 
 yons with many beautiful cascades and snow-covered 
 mountains in the distance always in view. We stopped 
 for lunch, then continued our drive, arriving at Fiissen 
 
 HOUSE OF ANTON LANG 
 
 in time for a delicious dinner, served in a most attractive 
 garden. 
 
 This morning our coach and four came to our hotel 
 and, at eight o'clock, we were off to the Bavarian castles. 
 We went through only the magnificent castle of Neusch- 
 wanstein, built by the extravagant but beauty-loving King 
 
98 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Ludwig I. The castle is one of the most costly and ele- 
 gant ever built. After lunch we took train for Lindau. 
 Lindau is situated on the beautiful Lake Constance. 
 
 Zurich. 
 
 This morning bright and early we were up and off on 
 the steamer, leaving Lindau at 7 :30 for Constance, sail- 
 ing the entire length of the lovely lake. We reached Con- 
 stance at eleven o'clock and here we made good connec- 
 tions for the train to Zurich. We arrived at Zurich at 
 two o'clock and, after going to the Belle Vue Hotel and 
 securing rooms, we went for a stroll in the gardens. 
 Later we started in search of a store, where I purchased 
 a much needed supply of clothing for the children and a 
 characteristic German doll for Sarah, to add to her in- 
 teresting collection of foreign dolls. 
 
 This evening the children and I enjoyed watching the 
 many pretty boats sailing along on the Zurich Zee. 
 
 Lucerne. 
 
 Today after lunch we took train for Lucerne, arriving 
 at the Victoria Hotel after a two hours' ride on the train. 
 On our first walk through Lucerne, we wandered over 
 the many curious and crooked bridges leading to the 
 Kurplatz, where we listened to the fine concert given by 
 the celebrated Italian orchestra. The Kurplatz is the 
 rendezvous of the fashionable, where they meet to listen 
 to the excellent music. 
 
 This morning we walked through the curious and 
 strange wooden-covered bridge known as the Kapell- 
 briicke, which crosses the river diagonally and was built 
 in 1333. It contains a series of very old and faded, 
 pyramid-shaped paintings beneath the roof, which record 
 the heroic deeds of the Swiss. We then continued our 
 walk past the many fascinating and attractive shops until 
 we came to the romantic nook containing the famous 
 Lion of Lucerne. The sight is an impressive one, show- 
 
OBERAMMERGAU 99 
 
 ing a majestic, magnificent, recumbent wounded lion. It 
 was sculptured in the year 1821 by Thorwaldsen and dedi- 
 cated to the memory of the Swiss Royal Guards of Paris, 
 1789. It is hewn out of an immense and perfectly 
 perpendicular rock, surrounded by many beautiful shade 
 trees, and, just beneath it, a small stream reflects the life- 
 like lion in its waters, making it even more impressive. 
 Even the children seemed to feel the inspiration of this 
 noble piece of work, and we returned many times to grat- 
 ify their childish enthusiasm. 
 
FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 
 
 Leaving the children with their governess in Lucerne, 
 I was up bright and early this morning, ready to take 
 train for Paris. The journey was long and tedious. The 
 only event of any importance was when the custom house 
 officials boarded the train and scrutinized most carefully 
 all my baggage. After six hours' ride I was glad to get 
 off the train, and how overjoyed I was to be met by Ruth 
 Larner ! 
 
 We drove to the Regina Hotel, where I secured a room. 
 Then we drove to Ruth's school on Avenue Victor Hugo. 
 What a wonderful drive we did have along the Champs 
 Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe ! Innumerable carriages 
 and automobiles whizzed about in every direction. 
 
 After a comfortable night's rest, I started out and 
 spent this morning at the Louvre, and Ruth Larner came 
 to the hotel and lunched with me. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the fascinating shops of gay 
 Parec, and then drove to the house where Victor Hugo 
 lived. Many of the author's portraits and his own 
 sketches are to be seen here ; also his desk, pen-and-ink 
 stand and a letter containing his autograph. 
 
 From here we drove to the cathedral of Notre Dame. 
 The entire exterior is covered with bronze figures and is 
 noted for its innumerable spires ; the interior contains 
 one hundred pillars, creating a very impressive appear- 
 ance. 
 
 Then we drove to the Eiffel Tower, which is the highest 
 monument in the world — just twice as high as the Wash- 
 
FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 101 
 
 ington Monument. This enormous structure is entirely 
 of iron, giving it an appearance of a great mass of iron 
 net-work. 
 
 Leaving the Eiffel Tower, we had a delightful drive 
 through the Bois de Bologne, the favorite drive of the 
 Parisians. Leaving Ruth Larner at her school, I visited 
 the Madeleine on my way back to the hotel. This church 
 was built in the style of a Roman temple by Napoleon II. 
 The front has an imposing colonnade of massive Corin- 
 thian columns. 
 
 This morning I spent most pleasurably and profitably 
 at the Louvre, looking at the many beautiful master- 
 pieces representing almost every school. Murillo's great- 
 est works are to be found here — the Immaculate Con- 
 ception and the Holy Family. In one large room there 
 are eighteen beautiful, big, historical paintings by Rubens ; 
 Rembrandt, noted for his many paintings of himself ; 
 Troyons' beautiful and lifelike cattle; Millet's Gleaners; 
 Corot's wonderful light effect through the trees ; Madame 
 Le Brun's two beautiful and graceful paintings of herself 
 and daughter. Here we see the most celebrated portrait 
 in the world, the Mona Lisa, by Leonardo da Vinci, with 
 her sarcastic but bewitching smile. The artist was four 
 years in painting it, and he finished it in 1452. Guido 
 Reni's Mary Magdalene and Greuze's Broken Pitcher 
 are also among these great paintings. One room of the 
 Louvre is devoted to the Florentine school. Here we see 
 the tender and saintly style of Fra Angelico. Fra Filippg 
 Lippi is also represented here. The Louvre possesses 
 one authentic work of Cimabue — a Madonna sitting up- 
 right in a chair. 
 
 Bright and early this morning I started for Ruth's 
 school, where I was delighted to find Anna, who had 
 arrived in Paris just last evening, having landed at Cher- 
 bourg on the Kron Princessin Cecelie earlier in the dav. 
 
102 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 This was my first visit to Ruth's school, where I met 
 A I me. Marty and was shown through the school. 
 
 Geneva. 
 
 After a most interesting week in Paris, Anna, Ruth 
 and I left for Geneva. Passing a comfortable night on 
 the train, we reached Geneva at 8 :30 A. M. We went 
 to the Peau Rivage and secured rooms ; then we had 
 breakfast and took a short stroll before going to the 
 American Episcopal Church. The Peau Rivage is beauti- 
 fully situated on Lake Geneva and is a most attractive 
 hotel. After dinner, we spent some time out on the 
 piazza, gazing at majestic Mt. Plane, eighty miles dis- 
 tant. This mountain, the highest in Europe, is fifteen 
 thousand feet high. 
 
 This afternoon we took a most delightful drive, view- 
 ing Mt. Plane from all points, and saw many other inter- 
 esting sights. The Protestant Cathedral is built in the 
 old quarter of the town and in this cathedral John Calvin 
 is supposed to have preached. Near by we saw the house 
 in which he lived in 1555. Adjoining the cathedral is 
 the church in which John Knox preached. 
 
 Lake Geneva is the largest and most beautiful lake in 
 Switzerland. The blue waters of the Rhone and the 
 gray waters of the Aare flow side by side and where they 
 even unite the waters do not seem to mingle. It makes 
 a strange and very unusual impression. 
 
 After spending the morning in the shops and looking 
 at the Geneva watches, we hurried back to the Peau 
 Rivage for early dejeuner; then we were off on the one 
 o'clock boat for Lausanne. The three hours' sail across 
 Lake Geneva was delightful ; the scenery was simply 
 superb, with the great, towering peaks of the snow-cov- 
 ered Alps in the background and Mt. Plane appearing 
 and disappearing and the many chateaux and attractive 
 Swiss towns borderinef its banks. 
 
FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 103 
 
 We reached Lausanne in time for a good dinner. 
 
 This morning we took a walk through this interesting- 
 town, which is built on the side of a mountain, so that 
 each street is higher than the other, and it has many 
 steps leading from one street to another. 
 
 Bl-RNE. 
 
 This morning at eleven o'clock we took train for Berne, 
 the capital of Switzerland, and, after a two hours' ride, 
 passing through beautiful, rich, well-cultivated country, 
 we arrived in time for lunch. Then a delightful drive 
 brought us to the curious and celebrated Bear Clock. 
 When the hour to strike approaches, a rooster comes out 
 and crows ; then a procession of small bears appears and, 
 in a merry-go-round way, they parade around the clock 
 as many times as the hour strikes. There were many 
 men, women and children who had gathered to see the 
 clock strike. 
 
 Then came the Garden of Bears, where there were 
 seven or eight bruins being fed cake and bread by a 
 large crowd of people. 
 
 Interlaken. 
 
 A two hours' ride by train from Berne brought us to 
 Lake Thun and Interlaken in time for a late dinner at 
 the Grand Hotel des Alps. This morning was perfectly 
 clear and cloudless and, just opposite our bedroom win- 
 dows, appeared the majestic Jung Fran in its snowy 
 splendor. Interlaken is the most beautiful place I have 
 ever seen. It is situated in a little, level valley, just be- 
 tween Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, with great, lofty 
 mountains surrounding it. Interlaken has one principal 
 street, on which all the leading hotels are located. There 
 are many attractive walks and drives here. 
 
 This morning, June eighth, we left Interlaken on the 
 early train for the famous mountain trip to Scheidegg. 
 
104 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 After passing- through the lovely Lauterbrunnen Valley, 
 our train made an abrupt ascent and, traversing a beau- 
 tiful wooded valley, skirted by a wild and turbulent 
 stream. Across the valley we saw the beautiful Staub- 
 bach Falls, meaning Mist. This was the first of the many 
 fine and wonderful waterfalls to be seen in this region. 
 It descends from a rock, and before it reaches the ground, 
 is converted into spray and resembles a silvery veil, and 
 is. indeed, beautiful. Many of these dashing and lovely 
 falls are caused by the melting snow. 
 
 Our next stop was at Wengenalp, where we had a 
 magnificent view of the snow-covered Jung Frau, and, 
 indeed, the peaks towered so high they hardly seemed 
 visible. The Jung Frau rises 13,670 feet. 
 
 Our train then ascended to greater heights, and it was 
 not until we were on the very top of another mountain 
 that our train stopped at Scheidegg. The view was mag- 
 nificent and surely it required a safe and steady head to 
 stand these dizzy heights. At Scheidegg we had lunch 
 and took some kodak pictures in the deep snow. I was 
 glad when our train began to descend on the other side 
 of the mountain into the beautiful Grindewald Valley. 
 We passed through walls of snow towering above the 
 car. There were many deep, rocky gorges and some 
 glaciers to be seen. Then we crossed beautiful, fertile 
 fields until we reached Interlaken again, thus ending 
 one of the most wonderful mountain trips in the world. 
 
 June ninth we left Interlaken by the early boat, cross- 
 ing Lake Brienz to Brienz. The sail was smooth and en- 
 joyable. The lake is surrounded by lofty rocks and has 
 snow-covered mountains for a background. A beautiful 
 road skirts its banks. Numerous streams are seen rising 
 on the heights and form beautiful cascades. There are 
 many typical and picturesque Swiss cottages to be seen 
 on the surrounding hills. We saw the famous and mar- 
 
FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 105 
 
 velotis Giesbach Falls, a strong, dashing stream rising 
 from the side of a steep mountain and forming a series 
 of wonderful cascades until it rushes dashingly into the 
 lake. 
 
 At Brienz we took train for Lucerne and at Meiringen 
 began the steep ascent across the Brunig Pass. This was 
 also a wonderful mountain trip, and the view was one 
 of grandeur and great beauty. 
 
 After an absence of two weeks, how relieved and 
 thankful I was to get back to the cbildren at Lucerne ! 
 We all strolled up to the gardens to see the Lion of 
 Lucerne and then Anna and Ruth started for their train 
 and left for Zurich on their way to Oberammergau, plan- 
 ning to meet again at Heidelberg. 
 
 Heidelberg. 
 
 This morning we were called at five o'clock, and at 
 seven o'clock were on the train for Heidelberg, where 
 we arrived at one o'clock. A beautiful mountain drive 
 brought us to the picturesque and attractive Schloss 
 Hotel. It was a bright, beautiful moonlight night, and 
 how lovely everything looked ! Our hotel is located so 
 high that we have a magnificent view of this lovely val- 
 ley. It seems as if I never shall forget the grandeur 
 of the Switzerland scenery, and now how beautiful Ger- 
 many is ! Indeed, words fail to describe the beauties 
 surrounding this quaint and interesting town of Heidel- 
 berg. It is encircled by fine forests filled with most at- 
 tractive and delightful walks and drives. The air is 
 most exhilarating. Just near our hotel stand the solemn 
 and stately ruins of the splendid old castle of Heidelberg. 
 
 All day it poured in torrents ; so we have spent the 
 day indoors. 
 
 This morning the children and I walked over to the 
 castle. Its vastness is marvellous. These ruins are the 
 oldest and largest of any castle ever built. Here I pur- 
 
106 
 
 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 chased a musical Heidelberg" stein for father ; also some 
 toys for the children which were ingeniously wrought and 
 very novel. We were interested in watching the students 
 clad in caps and gowns of many different colors. Anna 
 and Ruth arrived from Munich and, after spending the 
 
 ANNA, RUTH LARNER AND WILLIAM BRADLEY 
 ON THE RHINE 
 
 night at our hotel, left for Frankfort. They will join the 
 children and me at Weisbaden. 
 
 Today at three o'clock we were off for Weisbaden, and 
 a short and comfortable two hours' ride brought us to our 
 destination. A porter carried our bags, and a short walk 
 
FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 107 
 
 of three squares and we were at the Rhein Hotel, where 
 I was so glad to find Anna and Ruth had already arrived 
 and secured rooms for us. After dinner, we visited the 
 shops, and then we had our first taste of German beer, 
 which we did not enjoy as much as we had anticipated. 
 Leaving Weisbaden at 8:30 A. M. and taking the trolley 
 for a short ride to Biebrich, we boarded the steamer for 
 our trip down the Rhine to Cologne. The towns built 
 on the banks of the Rhine are numerous and we enjoyed 
 viewing them from our steamer. The hillsides are com- 
 pletely covered with vineyards, from which many famous 
 Rhine wines are made. We passed many a historic 
 castle. Just opposite the rocks of the Lorelei are the 
 Rheinfels, the most imposing ruins on the Rhine. The 
 many pretty legends and stories about the castles are 
 very interesting. Much of the time there were ruins on 
 both sides of the river, keeping us busy darting back and 
 forth from side to side of the boat. 
 
 Our first stop was at the attractive town of Coblenz, 
 where we saw a fine, big monument of Kaiser Wilhelm II. 
 At Boone, our only other stop, there is an unusually 
 picturesque bridge with piers representing castles. 
 
 We reached Cologne at five o'clock after a full day of 
 much pleasure and interest. Our accommodations for 
 the night were the poorest of any we have had since we 
 have been in Europe. 
 
 Cologne. 
 
 This morning we first visited the Museum, where we 
 saw the beautiful and familiar portrait of Queen Louise 
 descending the stairs. Then we went to the church of 
 St. Ursula and visited the Golden Chapel containing on 
 its walls the bones of many hundreds of virgins that had 
 been massacred. Then we made our second visit to the 
 celebrated Cologne cathedral, which was built in 1248. 
 Its numerous spires are the tallest in the world. 
 
108 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Cologne is a clingy, dirty city and even its beautiful 
 Cathedral looks black and grimy. 
 
 After an early lunch, we took train for Amsterdam 
 and were fortunate in securing rooms at the attractive 
 Amstel Hotel. 
 
 Amsterdam. 
 
 This morning we took a long car ride. This afternoon 
 we all visited the zoological gardens, where they have a 
 particularly fine collection of birds — especially parrots. 
 When we saw the parrots, the children asked, "Polly, 
 sprechen sie English or Deutsch ?" And we all thought 
 we heard Polly reply, "Deutsch." 
 
 While we were walking in the gardens, we had quite 
 an exciting experience. Little William was with his 
 Aunt Anna and Ruth, when, suddenly spying me, he left 
 them and ran to meet me. They did not know he had 
 seen me, and, on missing him, thought the little fellow 
 was lost, and for a while were much alarmed. 
 
 How we did enjoy seeing the many fine paintings by 
 the old Dutch masters in the Ryck Museum ! The most 
 celebrated painting in the Art Gallery was Rembrandt's 
 Night Watch, which hangs alone in a large room and is 
 a most impressive painting. The intense and eager ex- 
 pression on all the faces is marvellously portrayed. We 
 saw The Jester, by Franz Hals, in an adjoining room. 
 
 Never have I been as far north as this. The sun did 
 not set until half past eight this evening, and at two 
 o'clock in the morning it will be light. 
 
 This morning we visited another Art Gallery and en- 
 joyed its many beautiful, fine paintings : Paul Potter's 
 famous Bull ; Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, and his 
 Saul and David, showing Saul moved to tears by the 
 music of the harp on which David is playing. 
 
 The Hague. 
 The Haggle is the cleanest and most attractive of all 
 
FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 109 
 
 the cities in Holland. We stayed at the Vieux Dollen, 
 delightfully located and serving a most excellent tahle. 
 
 This morning we first visited the Dutch Reform Cathe- 
 dral, where the king and queen of Holland attend ser- 
 vices. We sat in the royal pew. Queen Wilhelmina and 
 the Prince Consort were married in this church in 1901. 
 Then we walked to the royal palace and were shown 
 through the state rooms. The palace is small and the 
 furnishings very plain and substantial, red being the 
 prevalent color. 
 
 One of the delightful drives from The Hague is out to 
 the kittle Palace in the Woods, which is beautifully and 
 elegantly furnished. The Chinese and Japanese rooms 
 were particularly effective in their rich and costly decora- 
 tions. In the Chinese room, the chandelier was made 
 entirely of cups and saucers inverted. 
 
 Delft. 
 
 After lunch, we made the excursion to Delft by train. 
 We visited the Dutch Reform Cathedral, where the royal 
 family of Holland is buried. Leaving the cathedral, we 
 went to the shops and purchased a few pieces of genuine 
 Delft china. 
 
 SchvEningen. 
 
 One of the most delightful and enjoyable trips from 
 The Hague is the short, beautiful trolley ride out to 
 Schveningen, the popular seaside resort of Holland. Its 
 beach is large and safe, and is completely covered with 
 big, curious-looking basket chairs. 
 
 Antwerp. 
 This morning we left The Hague for Antwerp. After 
 lunch we visited the Art Gallery, which is small but beau- 
 tiful and contains many rich and exquisite paintings. We 
 saw many celebrated pictures of Verboeckhoven's fine 
 cattle, Breton's peasant women ; also Bougereau's P>eggar 
 Girl. We then visited the ancient house, now called the 
 
110 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Plantin Museum. It is filled with curiosities and many 
 manuscripts. Here we saw the first printing-press used 
 in Belgium. Next we visited the Cathedral, which con- 
 tains Rubens' masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross. 
 The cathedral tower has one hundred bell chimes and 
 every fifteen minutes they are heard. Their music is par- 
 ticularly sweet. We saw the house where Rubens was 
 born and lived. We went to the church of St. Jaques, 
 where Rubens' tomb is. 
 
 This morning we had a most interesting drive along 
 the docks. These show what an important seaport Ant- 
 werp is ; for there was a perfect mass of masts, and simply 
 no end to crafts of all sizes and shapes. We were much 
 interested in seeing the dry docks. 
 
 This afternoon we left Antwerp for Brussels, and a 
 short ride of thirty minutes brought us there. 
 
 Brussels. 
 
 Good accommodations in Brussels were very difficult 
 to secure on account of the Brussels Exposition ; so we 
 went to several places before finally deciding on a small 
 hotel delightfully located on the broad and beautiful 
 Boulevard de Waterloo. After getting settled, we started 
 at once for the post-office, where we received many good 
 letters from home. 
 
 We spent this morning at the Hotel de Ville, or Town- 
 hall, which is quite a remarkable specimen of architecture. 
 It has a beautiful, high tower that is not placed in the 
 center of the large building, and both wings are entirely 
 different. Then we visited some of the lace shops, where 
 I purchased a large lace scarf and some pieces of lace. 
 We watched the women lace-weavers for some time, then 
 went to the picture gallery, which is a fine, big building. 
 There are many of Rubens' groups here. 
 
 After lunch, we went to the weird Wiertz Gallery and 
 saw paintings by this artist. Surely the subjects are the 
 
FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 111 
 
 most displeasing I have ever seen. 
 
 This afternoon we took a car and had a beautiful ride 
 out to the Exposition grounds. 
 
 All this week it has heen pouring in torrents ; we have 
 had little sunshine, hut have not allowed the rain to inter- 
 fere with our sight-seeing. 
 
 This afternoon we walked down to the magnificent 
 Palais de Justice, or Courthouse. It is said to he the 
 largest and most beautiful building in Europe, and surely 
 it is very impressive with its great porticos and massive 
 columns. 
 
 This afternoon, Anna and Ruth made the interesting 
 trip to the battlefield of Waterloo, where Napoleon met 
 his great defeat and where the British, with the Duke 
 of Wellington as their leader, were so victorious. 
 
 This evening we started out in search of a most curious 
 fountain called The Manniken Fountain, and we were 
 not surprised to find it in rather a secluded spot. 
 
 This morning we all had an early breakfast at Brussels 
 and then were off on the early train for Ostend. Here 
 we boarded the steamer to cross the English Channel to 
 Dover. We were three hours in crossing, and the sea 
 was rough and rolling. It seemed as if our boat were 
 performing many unnecessary stunts. The children and 
 I sat very still in our steamer chairs ; for we felt very 
 uncomfortable and barely escaped mal de mer. 
 
 From Dover we had a few hours' ride on the train to 
 London. 
 
ENGLAND 
 
 On arriving in London, we drove to two hotels before 
 finally securing good rooms at St. Ermin's Hotel. We 
 were, indeed, fortunate ; for it was well located, near 
 St. James' Park, Buckingham Palace and Westminster 
 Abbey. We found the hotel crowded with American 
 tourists, and I also met the party with whom I traveled 
 through Egypt. It seems strange that, in all our travels, 
 we had not met before. 
 
 Today we visited St. Paul's Cathedral, and it was most 
 interesting. The interior is imposing and has much 
 beauty in its vast proportions. It contains many monu- 
 ments of celebrated people. The architect of the church 
 was Sir Christopher Wren. The crypt extends under 
 the entire church. In one nart is the Painters' Corner, 
 named from the many celebrated artists that are buried 
 here, among them being Benjamin West and Joshua 
 Reynolds. A large and imposing sarcophagus of the 
 Duke of Wellington stands here. 
 
 This morning we first went to the American Express 
 Company, where I was indeed glad to find two letters 
 from Harry. Then we walked to the Washington Star 
 office and registered, and Anna presented a letter from 
 Mr. Theodore Noyes, and they were very courteous to 
 us and gave us much desired information. We noticed 
 the names of many of our friends on the register. We 
 then got into a taxicab and went to London Tower. It 
 was once used as a state prison, and many celebrated 
 people were imprisoned and beheaded here : Anne Bolyn 
 
ENGLAND 113 
 
 and Lady Jane Grey among them. Here we saw the 
 elegant ermine coronation robes of King Edward VII 
 and Queen Alexandra. Then we took another taxicab 
 and went across the Tower Bridge, and back across the 
 always crowded London Bridge, and, as we crossed, we 
 obtained a wonderful view of the shipping port of Lon- 
 don, filled with innumerable seacraft. 
 
 What a delightful morning Anna, Ruth and I have 
 had in the London shops ! 
 
 We spent a strenuous and very interesting afternoon 
 in the National Gallery. To me the choicest and most 
 beautiful paintings of all we have seen in Europe were 
 those by the British artists: Sir Joshua Reynolds— his 
 world-famed portraits — the Infant Samuel and the Angel 
 Head; Gainesborough's portrait of Mrs. Siddons, and 
 Landseer's animals — Dignity and Impudence, and Shoe- 
 ing the Horse ; Turner's Marine Disasters, and Delaroche's 
 The Execution of Lady Jane Grey; Rosa Bonheur's 
 Th<> Horse Fair. The Poets' Corner contains fine por- 
 traits of George Eliot, Charlotte Bronte, Tane Austen, 
 Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Tennyson, Dickens, and 
 many others. We saw many fine portraits of Queen Vic- 
 toria, and a very good one of Albert, the Prince Consort. 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 "Within whose sacred walls the memory of so many 
 illustrious men is perpetuated is one series of tombs, 
 monuments and tablets, and is considered the greatest 
 honor the nation can bestow on the most deserving of 
 her offspring." The vastness and gloom of it is felt at 
 once noon entering. We walked through the Royal 
 Chapels containing the tombs of rovalty. King George 
 and his wife were the last buried here, in 1700. A large 
 tomb of bronze, where Queen Elizabeth is buried, 
 and a monument to Oliver Cromwell attract many visi- 
 tors. We saw the Coronation Chair, used by every 
 
114 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 English king from William the Conqueror to the present 
 time. In the Poets' Corner we saw monuments to 
 Shakespeare, Sir Walter Scott, Oliver Goldsmith, Charles 
 Dickens, Addison, Macaulay, Longfellow, Tennyson. Mil- 
 ton, Ben Jonson, Spencer, Dryden, and many others, 
 Longfellow being the only American honored with a 
 place in this corner. 
 
 Tonight we went to Drury Lane Theatre and saw a 
 very good play. 
 
 Houses of Parliament. 
 
 This morning, following a great crowd of sight-seers 
 and with great solemnity, we walked through the Houses 
 of Parliament, which were built in 1840. The interior 
 is in keeping with the exterior and is magnificent and 
 imposing. We first entered the king's robing room, a 
 large and beautiful chamber ; then, proceeding through 
 the Victoria gallery, we came to the House of Lords, 
 where the king opens parliament. It is a richly decorated 
 room filled with red leather seats or benches occupied by 
 its five hundred members. From here we passed to the 
 House of Commons, a substantial, handsomely decorated 
 room, the paneling of which was all in dark wood. In the 
 halls there are many fine statues of celebrated statesmen. 
 A fine one of Gladstone is here. 
 
 Then we went out through Westminster Hall, full of 
 many historical associations and where Charles I was 
 condemned to die. 
 
 Today we made the delightful excursion out to Hamp- 
 ton Court. It is the largest royal palace in England and 
 was built in 1515. This palace is indeed vast and con- 
 tains many courts. The gardens are very extensive and 
 are filled with beautiful walks, flowers, and splendid 
 stately old trees. 
 
 On our way back to the station we purchased some deli- 
 cious strawberries and, while waiting for the train, en- 
 
ENGLAND 115 
 
 joyed them very much. 
 
 This morning we spent in front of Buckingham Palace, 
 much interested in watching the gaily dressed Royal 
 Guards. 
 
 This afternoon we visited Kensington Palace, which is 
 a low, unpretentious brick building, and is beautifully 
 located in an extensive and attractive garden. Queen 
 Victoria was born here and lived here many years ; also 
 the present Queen Mary was born here, and all of the 
 Teck family. We saw the piano used by Queen Vic- 
 toria ; her nursery and some of her toys ; also the room in 
 which she was baptized. Queen Victoria was living here 
 when she received the news of her becoming queen. 
 There are many portraits of kings and queens to be seen 
 here. 
 
 In front of Kensington Palace is a beautiful statue of 
 Queen Victoria, done by her daughter, Princess Louise. 
 
 We strolled through these beautiful grounds to the Al- 
 bert Memorial, a magnificent monument with a profusion 
 of gilding and mosaics, bearing the inscription : "Queen 
 Victoria and her people to the Memory of Albert, Prince 
 Consort, as a tribute of their gratitude for a life devoted 
 to the public good." 
 
 This morning we hurried to get through breakfast, so 
 as to be over at the Mall in time to see King George V. 
 return from his morning horseback ride. We walked 
 through St. James Park and had been there only a few 
 minutes when we saw the royal party approaching. The 
 king and several guards were riding from Buckingham 
 Palace on their way to Marlborough House. As they 
 passed us, little William Bradley took off his hat ; then the 
 king took off his hat and bowed very graciously. The 
 king wore no uniform, but was clad in a black suit and 
 derby and white gauntlets, and rode a beautiful black 
 horse. He rides from 8 :30 to 9 :30 everv morning. 
 
116 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 Today we went to the Wallace Art Gallery which is 
 filled with many magnificent paintings. This house is said 
 to he Gaunt House in Thackeray's Vanity Fair. 
 
 Today we made the trip out to Horsmonden. It is a 
 two hours' ride by train from London, changing cars at 
 Toubridge and Paddock Wood. Horsmonden is a typical 
 English village, and the surrounding country is just as 
 we would have pictured rural England to be. A two 
 miles' drive brought us to Horsmonden church. This is a 
 splendid old stone structure and was built in 1100. It is 
 in a fine state of preservation. We saw a beautiful 
 bronze tablet erected to the memory of Major Simon Wil- 
 lard, and placed there by Frances E. Willard, one of his 
 descendants. Harry is descended directly from Major 
 Willard, who was the first Willard to settle in America 
 in 1634. W T hen I told little William Bradley and Sarah 
 their father's ancestors came from here, little William 
 Bradley said : "Where are they now ? I want to see 
 them" 
 
 This morning we went for a stroll and soon found our- 
 selves in front of St. James Palace, where we stood and 
 watched the Royal Guards maneuvering. 
 
 Today we left London after a stay of almost three 
 weeks. We were seated in our compartment, readv to 
 leave for Windsor, when two of our Brattleboro friends 
 stepped in. We spent the day pleasantly together. 
 
 Windsor Castle. 
 Windsor is only a half hour's ride from London, and 
 the castle is beautifully located, overlooking the Thames 
 and its fine fertile valley. The castle is very large and 
 richly furnished. 
 
 Eton College. 
 After lunch we took a short drive to Eton College 
 which was founded in 1440. We were shown through 
 the class-rooms where they still use the same long wooden 
 
ENGLAND 117 
 
 benches and desks of former times ; in these the rudely cut 
 names were most conspicuous. The speaking hall was 
 intensely interesting. Here there is a high oak paneling 
 all around the long, narrow room, which contains col- 
 umn after column of the names of the graduates. Those 
 desiring their names carved here must pay for it. We 
 read the names of Shelley and William E. Gladstone, who 
 attended school here and later went to Oxford. We were 
 fortunate enough to witness the roll-call in the courtyard. 
 One thousand students, as the head master called their 
 names, assembled in different groups or classes. As his 
 name was called, each student replied by taking off his 
 high silk hat and saying, "Here, sir." Their suits were 
 rather strange : the older boys wearing the long Prince 
 Albert coat and high hat; the younger boys, the short 
 Eton iacket and high hat. 
 
 Oxford. 
 
 From Windsor, we had a two hours' ride to Oxford, 
 one of the most ancient and celebrated universities in 
 Europe. It was founded in 1100. It includes twenty- 
 two colleges. The English Chancellor is the head of the 
 University. Christ Church College is one of the finest 
 among these, and from it King Edward VII. graduated. 
 New College is also very beautiful. Attractive courts 
 open into one another, and each college has its own beauti- 
 ful chapel ; the gardens, in their quadrangled-shaped 
 lawns, are the most perfectly kept of any I have ever 
 seen. Each college has its own crest : one bears the in- 
 scription, "Manners Makyth Man." There are four thou- 
 sand students at Oxford. One of the buildings still used 
 by the students was erected in 1280. It stands in a fine 
 grove of venerable trees. Thomas Pope and his wife 
 were the founders of this college. A curious effect greets 
 the visitor's eye as you stroll down Lime Walk, where 
 Gothic architecture is represented in trees. In New Chap- 
 
118 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 el is a window by Sir Joshua Reynolds : the tones are all 
 in soft brown and yellow. This window was placed here 
 in 1777 and is now considered the finest in the world. 
 We also visited the hall where all the degrees are con- 
 ferred : this is where Mark Twain obtained his diploma. 
 
 This visit to all the University Buildings of England 
 was one of the great treats of my trip. 
 
 We have surely enjoyed our sojourn among these real 
 English-speaking people ; yet, strange to say, their lan- 
 guage was almost as difficult for me to understand as if 
 they were speaking French or German. 
 
 Leamington. 
 
 Today is little Sarah's fourth birthday, and this morn- 
 ing William and I had lots of toys and books ready to 
 give her a big surprise. 
 
 Leamington is a delightful, prosperous town, with beau- 
 tiful gardens and splendid, broad streets. This morning 
 we spent in the garden enjoying the music of the band. 
 The lawns are perfectly kept, and there are no restrictions 
 preventing either old or young from enjoying them. 
 
 This afternoon we watched the finals of a tennis tour- 
 nament. 
 
 Kenilworth Castle. 
 This morning we drove out to Kenilworth, a distance 
 of five miles. There is little left of the castle, but the 
 ruins of its walls, and they look as if they would tumble 
 down any moment. In 1563, this castle was the royal 
 residence, and Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, wel- 
 comed Queen Elizabeth here in 1575. Amy Robsart was 
 murdered by her husband, the Earl of Leicester, in this 
 castle, as he desired to marry Queen Elizabeth. Oliver 
 Cromwell and his men completely demolished this fine 
 and stately old palace, scattering its costlv contents every- 
 where. The holes in the walls are now visible where the 
 bullets penetrated. No other castle has had such stormy 
 
ENGLAND 119 
 
 scenes enacted within it, and been connected with so much 
 of English history. Passing" through the courtly luxury 
 of Queen Elizabeth's reign, when there was so much 
 brilliant entertaining done here. Sir Walter Scott has 
 immortalized Kenilworth Castle as the scene of his novel. 
 
 Stratford on Avon. 
 This morning we took train to Stratford on Avon, to 
 visit the birthplace of England's greatest son. We first 
 walked to the church containing the tomb of Shakespeare 
 and that of his wife, Anne Hathaway ; also their daughter, 
 Mistress Hall, and her husband. The font from which 
 Shakespeare was baptized is seen in this church. We 
 walked through the streets of this clean and well-built 
 little country town to the house in which Shakespeare 
 was born in 1564. The house is now national property 
 and is kept in scrupulously good order. The white- 
 washed ceilings are covered with visitors' names written 
 in pencil, a custom long ago prohibited. Scratched on the 
 small diagonal-shaped window panes are the names of 
 Walter Scott, Thomas Carlyle and Thackeray. A most 
 interesting collection of the poet's portraits and the early 
 editions of his great works are shown ; also the large 
 wooden desk used by Shakespeare at the grammar school 
 at Stratford, and his large gold seal ring. The beautiful 
 garden back of the house is a part of the original land, 
 and is filled with such flowers as are mentioned in Shake- 
 speare's plays. 
 
 Warwick Castle. 
 Today we took the trolley and rode out through the 
 beautiful streets of Leamington. Just on the outskirts of 
 the town, we came to the entrance of the ancient and 
 stately home of the Earl of Warwick. The grounds are 
 particularly attractive with their velvety turf and stately 
 trees. Tbe castle remains intact, and the royal family 
 often comes bere. The interior of the castle contains 
 
120 OUR TRIP ABROAD 
 
 many fine paintings, a large collection of armor and many 
 interesting curios. A particularly fine painting of Mrs. 
 Siddons is seen here, and the armor worn by Oliver Crom- 
 well and the Duke of Wellington. Queen Elizabeth was 
 entertained at this castle. In the conservatory is seen the 
 famous Warwick Vase, found in Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli, 
 near Rome. 
 
 Today, very reluctantly, we left Leamington, after our 
 delightful stay here of just one week. 
 
 Chester. 
 
 This afternoon, we had a three hours' ride on the train 
 to Chester. We found all the hotels crowded when we 
 reached there, on account of the great pageant that was 
 being given. However, we secured rooms at a very good 
 hotel which, like the town, is very old. One of the curious 
 things about Chester is the Roman wall that still stands 
 and encircles the town, covering a distance of two miles. 
 I enjoyed immensely my walk on this wall and, in many 
 places, obtained a fine view of Chester and its surrounding 
 country. There are many towers on the wall still remain- 
 ing, and the most interesting is the Charles I. Tower, 
 from which he witnessed the defeat of his soldiers. The 
 arcades are a unique feature of this ancient town, stores 
 occupying the place of the front room. 
 
 Chester is said to be the Nuremburg of England. Its 
 fine specimens of old timber-built houses are most inter- 
 esting. 
 
 Liverpool. 
 
 This afternoon, a short, comfortable ride on the train 
 brought us to Liverpool, and we secured fine accommoda- 
 tions at the Adelphi Hotel. 
 
 Early this morning, we set out for our first glimpse of 
 Liverpool ; mounting to the upper deck of a great bus, we 
 took a ride about the city. The bus was enclosed in glass 
 and did not seem as dangerous as the London bus. The 
 
ENGLAND 121 
 
 usual weather prevailed — rain, wind and fog. 
 
 This afternoon we boarded the Cymric for our home- 
 ward journey, and are all greatly excited over sailing. 
 After eight days on the Cymric, with a rough and cold 
 voyage, but all escaping mal de mcr, we reached Boston 
 at noon, August fourth. Harry and Henry Augustus 
 were waiting to meet us, and how overjoyed we were to 
 see each other and be home again after our long and 
 wonderful trip ! Before starting to the hotel, it took me 
 some time to get through the Custom House. I had de- 
 clared all my articles, and was most fortunate in getting 
 through without paying any duty.