MY LITTLE PART IN A BIG WAR BY Alvin S. Mela First Lieutenant, U. S. A. Copyright 1919 Alvin S. Mela MY LITTLE PART IN A BIG WAR BY A L V I N S. Mela First Lieutenant, U. S. A. Copyright 1919 Alvin S. Mela To My Mother and Sister, who have always understood me better than anyone else, and whom I have always admired for it as being able to do more than I can, I dedicate this book. M4r 25 1919 ^0 I \^- y FOREWORD , From a letter dated February 20th, 1018, written in Paris to my old and intimate friend, M. Leo Sipser, I quote the following: "So you think my letters would make interesting manuscripts? Well, all I can say is that if they were written in disappearing ink, they would have unlimited circulation in every blind man's home in the country ! Those are about the only places and under the only conditions wherein they might be ap- preciated. But thanks for the compliment just the same. Who ever heard of me as a man of letters !" I have not changed my opinion in the slightest degree, and I am compiling this narrative of my experiences and impressions to bolster my memory in future years — to keep me from forgetting the hardships and pleasures, the work and the play incidental to my stay in France as one of the Amer- ican Expeditionary Forces sent to that countr-y in the great World War of 1914-1918. The letters that follow were passed by the Ctensor in much the same form as they appear here. While gathering them together for this narrative, I have added dates, geographical locations, names of per- sons, and other details, which at the time of writ- ing were forbidden by the General Orders covering Mail Censorship. I have also expanded some notes from my diary. Alvin S. Mela. On March 25, 1917 — twelve days before America declared war on Germany — I went to Governor's Island, N. Y., with my brother Harry, for my first infantry drill. These drills were unofficial affairs fostered by Capt. A. L. Boyce, of "Boyce's Tio-ers'' fame. A few days later, I sent in my application for examination for the Officers' Reserve Corps, and was informed that I was to go before the Examin- ing Board on May 13th. This method of admission to the O. R. C. was changed in favor of the Training Camp Plan, and I Avas ordered to take a physical examination on April 25th. I passed this easily, and early in May received notification to report at the Officers' Training Camp at Plattsburg Bar- racks, N. Y., on May 15th. The three months that followed were ones of hard and serious but healthy work. I was successful to the extent of being commissioned a Second Lieu- tenant of Infantry on August 15th. I was in the Tenth Company of the Second Provisional Training- Regiment, and along with eight other men in the company was ordered to report to the Commanding- General at Hoboken, N. J., on August 29th for im- mediate service overseas, but no transportation Avas available until September 7th. Sept. 7th.— Although I reported at 9 A. M. to the U. S. S. ''Huroai ' ( formerly the "Kaiser Fried- erich der Grosse") at Pier No. 2, Hoboken, Ave did not finally get aAvay from the pier until six o'clock in the evening. All khaki-clad men were ordered below decks, so that in going down NeAV York Bay not a man was in sight except sailors on duty. We passed the Statute of Liberty in her flood of light, going to the country that gave us this remarkable symbol of Libei-ty, Equality and Fraternity. Our thono-hts naturally turned to wondering when we would see her again— if we ever would ! The convoy consisted of five other transports, a supply ship, two destroyers and the cruiser ''Hunt- ington/' I had a perfectly delightful trip and was not sea- sick a moment, nor did my stomach even feel queer at any time. I ate like a starved animal and slept like a log. Never felt better in all my life. Several of the days were rough, however, and ou two occa- sions only half of the officers showed up at meals. Submarines? Huh, I didn't see a sign of any of them, tho, as a precaution, no lights were permitted after dark, excepting the blue dead-lights below decks. We had to undress in total darkness. It was great work, stumbling around the unlit ship to find my stater ooan. Sept. 20th.— This marked our entry into the Port of St. Nazaire (Loire Inferieure), France. The day broke foggy and rainy, but cleared up toward late afternoon. We proceeded up to within four or five miles of the port, took on a pilot and then waited until 3 P. M. for the tide to change sufficiently to permit us to get in. We went through a tortuous channel in the mined zone off the port, and promptly at 5 o'clock the 23rd Regiment Band, which was with us on board, played the "Marseil- laise," as we entered the locks. What a wonderful greeting we got! You would think that we were home-coming conquerors, and not an expeditionary force just landing ! The quay was lined with men and beautiful French girls— many in black, it is true— anxious to cheer us, our country and theirs, and to tlirow us fruit and cigarettes. The shout- ing aud cheering made a baliel of sound I will re- member for many long years to come. Sept. 21st. — We were held on the ship until 4 P. M. It was a long, dull, irksome wait, l)ut when we got off, we made up for lost time and motion. St. Nazaire is a quaint town to urban American eyesi. The streets, shops, cafes, people, wagons, in fact the very atmosphere is so different from what I have been brought up to regard as commonplace. I had my first meal on shore and returned to the ship at 9.15 P. M. The following humorous incident shows the dif- ficulty of conversing with the natives, many of them having a smattering of English. One of us tried to tell a girl that he had a friend in Texas. She interrupted with '*Oui, oui, monsieur, je com- prends; he run a taxee!" Sept. 23rd.— I fell in with Capt. Halloran of "A" Co., 23rd Infantry, and we spent the day to- gether. I did not return to the ship, but bedded down for the night in the officers' quarters of the 23rd Regiment. The Oaptain loaned me his can- vas bedding roll which I spread on the floor. A Lieutenant gave me a blanket to serve as a mat- tress, and another Captain loaned me a pair of blankets to cover myself. Thus I spent my first night on French soil, and I slept soundly too. I had slept on board ship the previous nights. Sept. 25th. — I received orders directing me to go, in company with nineteen others^ to the Fourth British Army Sniping, Observation and Scouting School at Bouchon (Somme). Sept. 2Gth.— We left for* Boiiclion, arrivini»- the following inoriiiii«j;-, after an all day and niiiht ride. At the school we were informed that we had not been expected until the 30th and that we could have passes to go to Paris or Amiens until 8 o'clock that morning. I chose Paris. Sept. 27th-30tit.— My first stay in Paris was naturally of great interest, but, as I spent so much time there later, I shall omit all details of this short visit. Letter, Bouchon, Oct. 2nd.— I am billeted, along with 1st Lieut. Wm. H. McLaughlin, with the village schoolmaster. We have a large room, very clean and airy, and as far as the accommodations are conceraed, one could hardly expect more in any small town anywheres. We try to talk with the schoolmaster and his wife. We find it is difficult, but manage to make ourselves understood (at times) with the aid of a French-English, English- French dictionary and plenty of sign language. The kindness of the rural French folk toward the Americans is illustrated by the old schoolmaster and his wife waiting up until 11 o'clock to give us hot coffee on two cold and rainy nights, when we w^re on outdoor exercises. Letter, Chaumont (Hte. Marne), Oct. 18th.^ I left Boucheon yesterday, and am spending the night at American Headquarters. We had a miser- ably slow trip here, lasting twenty-five hours, and arrived in a mor-e or less disreputable condition. With due respect to French passenger trains, I now have a wholesome regard for an American way freight on a backwoods jerkwater railr-oad! Sleep- ing cars to Americans in France are onlv a mem- 6 ory of the States, and the best we cau do is to bed down for the night as comfortably as we can while reclining in our seats. At that, yon can judge how much better off we are tlian the poor chaps who haye to ride in box cars. Of what is in store for us, I haye not the slightest idea, and since joining the army, I haye come to realize the futility of try- ing to foretell just what to expect. The course at the school at Bouchon was one of unusual and yaried interest, and all of us thoroly enjoyed it. Compared to Training Camp, the work was very light, inasmuch as we only worked about seyeu hours a day, tho some days we put in somewhat more. Since my last letter, I haye spent two enjoyable Ayeek-ends in Paris, and the more I see of that city the better I like it. I had hoped to get there again before coming here, but my orders preyented my doing so, and probabh' it is just as well. Letter, Demange-aux-Eau (Meuse), Oct. 21st. — At last I haye reached the end of my travels, at least for the time being. I am now billeted in this small town, with the 16th Regular Infantry, and have been attached to Company "I" fo-r duty. The original party at the British Sniping School has been split up, only five of us coming here. Mc- Laughlin is one of them. Letter, Oct. 25th. — Since reporting here for duty, I have had more new situations to face and avercome than one could imagine. Last Sunday I took my platoon a little ways out of town on a twenty-four hour outguard, which went thru without incident. Then on Thursday, I acted as range officer while the men went thru target practice, and the culmination of the week of sur- prises was being ordered by the Conimanding- Offi- cer to defend a private before a Special Court Mar- tial ! I know I am not quite as good as John B. Stanchtield, as mv man got the limit, but I really believe he deserved it. All he did was to disobey his corporal, call him vile names and wind up by assaulting him. But I did the best for him that I could. Letter, Oct. 25tii, to P. A. Dillon. — I am "somewhere in France'' all right, in the midst of the rain and mud, tho at this particular moment the sun is making a valiant effort to assert itself. Mud, mud, mud — slimy, sticky, slippery, sloppy ooze — it's awful ! I have never seen anything in the States that even nearly approaches it for sheer disagreeableness, but it is no worse for me than it is for thousands and thousands of others, so I am complaining no more than my share. The rain and mud, both of which are almost continuous, make work almost unbearable that at most times would not be so bad at all. And this is the country that we will have to fight in ! The people back in the States have no conception of what we are putting up with, and I hope someone will start a campaign of enlightenment that will wake up the American nation. Letter, Oct. 25th, to M. L. Sipser. — In passing, permit me to pay a glowing tribute to the women of Paris in the following selected and carefully chosen words: #-l?;i4yo%/%*@(g(2!! It is a wonderful spot, and in all your long and varied ex- perience on the road, you have never, never seen anything like it. — Now, as to the city by day. Well, the fact is I did not see enough of it when artificial light was unnecessary to make any very definite statement, but after reading seyeral guide (?) books, I agree with Baedecker in all that he says Oct. 2Tth. — I spent the week-end in Nancy (Meurthe-et-Moselle), and among other things got a much-needed hot bath. This is worthy of note, as they are luxuries in rural France in peace times, and almost unknown since the summer of 1914. Letter, ^oy. 6th. — To-day is Election Day, but I beat the home folks to it this year l)y voting on Saturday last. The election jol> business follows me around the world, so I acted as Chairman of the Board of Inspectors for the "IGth Kegiment of Infantry, at present in France." You know that the new Election Law provides for New York State voters on military service outside of the State be- ing given an opportunity to vote, and quite natu- rally I would not overlook the chance. Talk about coincidences, listen to this one ! Scene : The room occupied by 1st Lieut. William A. Dashiell, M. O. R. C. (Surgeon of the 3rd Bat- talion). Time: 8 P. ^I. I said I am anxious to return to the States if only to go back to the High School of Commerce in uniform to show them that I was doing something, whereupon the medico asked me when I had graduated. I told him I had been a member of the February 1907 Class, and he an- swered that he had been in the June 1907 Class from the same school! We naturally got to chin- ning, and I soon remembered that I had known liim well in school, and that he had known me. After graduating from school in 1907, he moved to Little Rock, Ark., studied and later practiced medicine, then married and had a family, but felt the call of duty, and joined the ^[edical Officers' Reserve 9 Corps. And here he is, somewhere in France, eat- ing at the same mess with me ! As to my health, I am a little ont of hick at last. My famous ^'Baseball Knee" (the left one) has gone back on me a trifle, and at present it is bonnd up with adhesive tape to support the ligaments. Dashiell calls it "a slight arthritis," which, trans- lated into the language that one does not have to pay for to hear, simply means "most unpleasant and annoying." But it is nothing to worry about, for I went to business many a day with that knee feel- ing just as bad as it does now, and sometimes worse. Otherwise I am feeling just tine. Nov. 7th. — I was selected by my Company Com- mander last night to go up to the line two days in advance of the Company, and consequently left Demange-aux-Eau Wednesday morning, November 7tli, accompanied by two Sergeants, Trower and Simmons, from my Company. After an all-day motor ride, we arrived at Bathelemont (Meurthe- et-Moselle), a small, almost deserted and much shot-up hamlet about three kilometers back of the front line, where we found billets for ourselves in deserted houses. My bedding roll, stripped down to bare necessi- ties, was all the baggage I took witli me, in addi- tion to the full pack which I wore. The appearance I presented when loaded down with full war regalia must have been rather funny, for, in addition to the pack, I had my despatch case, field glasses, French gas mask and English gas mask slung over my shoulder-s, while on my belt were the regulation trappings. I was draped like a Christmas tree! I made myself as conifortal)le as possible in this deserted house for the night, but about half-past two in the morninu I was rudelv aAvakened bv a 10 most iineartlilY explosion, being almost thrown out of my bunk. It was the bursting of a Bo-che 105- mm. shell about two yards in front of the doorway of the house, and about fifteen yards from where I was peacefully sleeping. I did some real honest Yankee cussing, and decided that an investigation of the shell hole could wait until there was more light, so I went to sleep again. Upon coming out of the house in the morning, I had to make a wide semi-circular detour to avoid the hole. A remark- able thing about the explosion was that it did not break a single pane of the glass that still remained in the windows of the house in which I had been sleeping, tho there was plenty of broken glass in windows of neighboring houses. Nov. 8tii. — About 9 o'clock on Thursday morn- ing, I left for the front line with the Sergeants and a guide, for my first look at real trenches. After wandering thru the maze of trenches for a couple of hours, we started on our way towards the kitchen of the Company that was occupying this sector — ^'F" Company of our Regiment. It was at 11.30 A. M. when I got under shell fire for the first time in my life. There was nothing for me tO' do but to drop to the bottom of the trench just as hard and fast as I could, and I ''stood not upon the order of my going." I broke all records for rapid fall- ing! When I mentioned this little incident to one of the officers of "F" Company, all I got was a laugh and this pleasant bit of advice : "Yau ought not to be such a darn fool as to be in a communicating trench at chow time!" But none of the shells fell any nearer than to throw a little mud on me. We remained for the balance of the day, circulating about the first line and support trenches, and just 11 about dnsk returned to Bathelemont, again con- ducted hj a guide. Nov. 9th. — Friday was quiet until after dark, when my Battalion arrived, and tlien it was my job to see that my Cbmpany was billeted properly and promptly, according to information and in- structions I had received earlier in the day. I received my first mail from the States, ten let- ters being brought to me from Demauge by Sgt. Beaver, and there in Bathelemont, by the light of a dismal candle, in a tumbled-down house, three kilometers from the front line, I read the first let- ters from home. I was a happy boy then — can you doubt it? Nov. 10th. — Saturday was spent in resting and inspection of equipment, and after dark the Bat- talion went up to the line, each platoon being led by a French guide. The distance was only three kilometers, but it proved to be hard going, being loaded down like pack-mules. We got there with- out incident, and then my platoon, being the reserve platoon, unloaded the supplies and ammunition, and distributed both. We had to provide the kitch- en police details, the kitchen being under my charge. We worked like beavers until 3 o'clock Sunday morning. The mud bothered us greatly, the wagons getting stuck at a considerable distance from where we wanted them. The men at first seemed inclined to fight shy of the mud, so I just waded into it (or rather sank into it), and then they followed me quite willingly. There v^as. no more trouble on that score again ; that was the first and the last of it. Good Lord, but it was hard work, and I am thankful that Fritz let us alone while we were doing it. I was almost covered from 12 liead to foot with mud, and ^Yhen the job was fin- ished I was tired — and sadly in need of a manicnie. Nov. 12Tn. — On this niglit I took out my first patrol. It consisted of twenty-three non-commis- sioned officers and men. We went oyer the top and thru our wire at 6.30 P. M., it Ijeing absolutely dark then, and returned about 11 P. M. I had 2nd Lieut. Galbreth of the reserve company with me. He had asked his and my company commanders for permis- sion to accompany the patrol, which of course, re- gardless of seniority, left me in command. We had illuminated compasses, and he led the way back, getting- off his course al)Out five degrees. I remained Avith the automatic rifles with the rear guard, and while I knew that we were shifting direction, there was nothing I could do in that intense darkness but to keep on going, and ^^'llen we hit something, to make the necessary corrections in direction in order to get back. We hit something soon enough in the form of one of our machine guns, and the gunner was not asleep on post either. He heard us coming up to our wire, and opened fire on us. We hit the ground again ! I passed the word along to the men to slide down the hill backwards on their bellies, until we reached a spot where I knew there was some dead ground. Then we had a real cute council-of-war right out in No Man's Land. I naturally first took the precaution of putting the automatic rifles out a few yards towards the Ger- man lines for protection against surprise. The Lieutenant and my two Sergeants tried to make me believe that we had gone too far to the left, and that we should turn toward the right, but I insisted that we were about two hundred yards too far to the right as it was. Being in command, I had my way, and we shifted sharply to the left, finally get- 13 ting back to the exact point from wliicli we started, as a patrol is supposed to do. We were out as a combat patrol, but found nothing to combat. All we got waSi cold and stiff. Lying out on the cold ground at full length for about four and a half hours with very little movement does not keep the body very warm, I can assui'e you. Nov. 15TII. — I went out on another patrol of twenty men, accompanied by the battalion intelli- gence officer, Lieut. Youngs. We remained out about the same length of time, were out for the same purpose, and had no excitement whatever. This time I saw two Fritzies silhouetted against the light of a flare, but being only two, let them alone; we were out after bigger game than two. We had no trouble getting back as oii the other oc- casion. Lieut. Youngs had been out quite a num- ber of times, and had a most excellent sense of direction. He guided coming back, and the way he seemed to sense his way in the pitch-black night was indeed a work of art. No doubt you are wondering just what were my sensations the first time I went over. I will admit quite freely that if I had not had twenty-three men waiting for me to show the way, I don't believe I ever would have been able to lift my leg over the parapet. My heart seemed to be bulging out of my mouth and my nerves were all atingle, but just as soon as Ave were outside of our wire, I began to feel quite comfortable and at ease. At the moment of going over, I realized that if I did not go, I would be ruined forever, even if an account of it never reached the States, so I screwed up sufficient will power to make the necessary physical effort. Somehow or other, I believe that every one of us felt ]nore or less the same way, but it was up to me to shoAV the way. I could not follow anyone else; by all the rules and practices of military science, I had to lead. Nov. ITtii. — In the small horns of the morning we had a nice scare, altho it caused a good laugh afterwards. My platoon was ordered to reinforce the first platoon, and I was directed to take com- mand of the second platoon sector, while the leader of that platoon was out on a patrol. Fritz started to shell the first platoon sector on my right, some of the shells dropping in my sector also. I awak- ened the Sergeant, who was off duty at the time,, and Avith the twO' Sergeants started to make an in- vestigation of the show\ One of the Sergeants, a man who had seen active service in IMexico, jumped up on the parapet to get a look around, and he called to me in a hoarse whisper: "Come up here. Lieutenant, and take a look at that!" I got up, and he pointed out something most suspicious on the sky-line, just faintly showing in the darkness. We could see, or thought we could, a row of Boches in a quarter that would have meant a last prayer for all of us. I ordered the other Sergeant to send up an illuminating flare, while we got our bodies off the sky-line. Then the laugh came — it was a row of fence posts, artistically draped with masses of barbed ^ire, that, in the dark, fashioned them- selves into most realistic Fritzies! I felt a little relieved, but to make sure I had another flare sent up. The phantom Dutchmen showed up in our rear, so I felt that I could not afford to take even the slightest chance. I had a good' practical joke played on me while in the line, and the instigator was my Captain. It was just noon, and I was asleep, having turned in only a few lioiiis l)efore after a busy night. I was awakened by someone sticking his head into my dngont. The head was encased in a gas mask, and the first thing I realized was a voice calling in ex- cited tones, "Wake np, Mela, r/os, gas!" I sat bolt upright, held my breath, and stretched my hand in- stinctively toward where my gas mask always was while I slept. But it wasn't there ! I took a quick look around and discovered it in quite another place, reached for it, and put it on in a hurry. About thirty seconds after that, someone came in and told me that there was no gas, and that it was all a joke. But I had recognized the voice that had done the calling — it was another one of the Lieu- tenants. The joke was on me just the same, so I squared accounts by buying the wine for our offi- cers' mess when we got back to Demange. I have a little souvenir that I picked up in No Man's Land in the shape of German telephone or telegraph wire. We picked it up and cut it on my first patrol. It was stretched across from the Boche trenches, and was used to tap our telephone circuit to the rear. I went up to the line with my knee in bad shape, but in a few days it disappeared entirely. It looks as tho Dashiell, who suggested that I be put on light duty, did not know what was good for me, or perhaps his idea of light duty was life in the trenches ! Let me say a word concerning the morale of the men. It ivas excellent in every iciuj. I put that in italics to emphasize it to the utmost degree. You must realize that the work is the hardest of the hard, the hours long, the eternal watchfulness most trying on the nerves, and at times it is not possible to feed just as you would like to. The mud wasi everywhere, our feet were more often wet than (Xvj, IG only some of us being fortunate enough to have rubber- boots, and when we wore them, we slipped more than we walked. The weather was very cool, and the long fourteen-hour nights were raw and chilling to the very bone. The sleeping quarters were for the most part bad, tho I was lucky in having the best dugout in the entire Company sec- tor. I shared it with a Machine Gun Company Lieutenant (a West Pointer) and a French Ma- chine Gun Lieutenant. It was fairly dry, and the bunks were elevated off the floor. But most of the dugouts were wet, water seeping thru the roof all the time, and all of them were damp. In spite of all these and many more discomforts, the morale of the men was excellent. For instance, once, after the men had done about twenty hours straight, I asked for volunteers to do a certain job, not danger- ous but just plain hard work, and practically the entire platoon stepped forward. Yes, the soldiers: acted like MEN, never complaining and always will- ing to obey the most insignificant order. Their par- ticular delight was to be selected to go out on a patrol. You would then see them for an hour or more, oiling their rifles to make sure that they would work properly, blackening their bayonets most carefully, examining the hand grenades to make certain that they were not defective, all the ^^•llile keeping up a running fire of good-natured banter ^^ith those who could not go. It was a pleasure to share the hardships with men like that I And I have not the slightest doubt but what my ex- perience in this regard is just the same as that of every other American officer. The food was very fair. We only ate twice a day, but both mealsi were substantial, and we had hot coffee at midnight, which was served to the men on guard without their leaving their posts. Mid- r niglit coffee under trench conditions is a necessary stimulant, and if it bad not been for that, I don't know how the men could have got along until morn- ing. If the coffee was not hot (had cooled off while being brought to them), they would drink it just the same without the least word of complaint. That is the kind of spirit that is going to accomplish much in this war ! Walking about those trenches in the dark is a harder proposition than a promenade along the Gay White Way. It is a wonder that I did not, on more than one occasion, skin the bridge of my nose. The way that I used to bump into traverses was almost comical. I would come out of a dugout to make a tour of inspection, and of course my eyes would not be accustomed to the dark^^light blind- ness" they call it. Before I could really see things, I was pretty sure to be stopped short by some very well-meaning and necessary traverse. The trench bottoms were in miserable condition for the most part, tho I had my entire platoon out one night laying duck-walks to improve this. All repair and maintenance work had to be done at night, making it a very slow and difficult job. I have not yet made mention of the rats. I never in all my life heard such a variety of squealing and screeching as those pesky little rodents indulged in every night. They seemed to be everywhere, tho I did not see or feel many of them myself. I have heard many fantastic tales from the men, such as waking up and feeling one or more crawling over their faces and bodies, but I personally was spared this. The only other animals I saw were cats. They were small, with round bodies and short, stubby, pointed tails. All shades known in cat-dom were Tepresented. They were friendly little animals. 18 strange as it may seem, and once or twice one crawled up on my bnnk with me when I turned in for a little sleep. And I did not chase it away, either. In the matter of casualties, the Company was most fortunate. Altho "F" Company, which we re- lieved, had lost about twenty five in killed, wounded and prisoners — about one-sixth of its strength — we only had one killed and four wounded, none of the latter seriously. Ours was the luckiest Company of the luckiest Regiment of the Division, and my platoon was the luckiest platoon in the Company, as there was not a single casualty. Nov. 18th. — We received the necessary order to leave the trenches, and shortly after dark my pla- toon set out. AVe were a tired outfit. It was a particularly black night, and when we reached bat- talion headquarters, I asked the Major to assign a guide to my platoon to make sure that we did not lose our way. The men were not in condition to wander all over the scenery in search of the way out, and I preferred not taking any chances on my knowing or losing the way. The Major supplied the guide, and it took us just one hour and a quar- ter to cover the three kilometers ! We slipped and slid, avoided one water-filled shell hole only to over- look another, all the time strung out in single file. The other platoon leaders did not think of getting guidef^, and as a consequence strolled in even more mud spattered than we were, about two hours after we had reached Bathelemont. My men were asleep befoi'e the others came in. That night I spread my bedding roll on the floor of a deserted house at about midnight, and at 3 A. ]\r. I was up, got a hurried breakfast, took a snack of food to eat at noon, and set out in the 19 dark, to a point about five or six miles to the rear, where motor trucks met us to take us back to De- mange. We arrived there along towards evening, had supper and turned in. Yes, I was tired, and slept long and peacefully that night, knowing that there was to be no reveille the following morning. While in the trenches, my hours of labor were peculiar. It is shorter to mention my hours of sleep, as I usually slept from 8.30 or 9 A. M. until noon or 1 P. M. Tho this is not very much sleep for a stretch of ten days, the nervous tension of the work and the excitement were ample to keep me going in excellent shape. Then came the job of cleaning up and taking a bath. What a blessing that bath was! I was a pretty dirty specimen, and it meant a lot of hard scrubbing to make me feel fairly clean. The men of our Company were pretty lucky in the matter of fleas and lice, only a very small percentage of them being afflicted with the pests. Personally, I es- caped, but not because I had any better treatment than the men. Better luck, that's all. Letter, Xov. 21st. — Mother dear, I am sorry that you were so uneasy because of not receiving a letter from me for a period of a few days. I try to write twice a week, but this is not possible at all times. I am doing my best, but mail service is dif- ferent now than in peace times, and you must try not to worry. Don't forget that the first letter I received reached me nine w^eeks after leaving the States, and that is far worse than you have had to bear, even tho less can happen to you than to me. Should anything serious befall me, you will learn of it fast enough, never fear, so Mother, don't worrj^ and fret any more than you have to. 20 Letter, Nov. 28th. — We have had two very hard, long- dajs of drill in miserable weather and worse marching- conditions. Tnesday it was snowing and raining, tho to-day it was only raining, but to make np for the lack of s^now, our slnm wagon did not reach us, so we had to go lunchless and coffeeless from breakfast to supper — eleven hours ! We use olive oil or mutton tallow on the feet, and I think that is what is keeping colds and pneumonia from getting the best of us. I use olive oil freely. It makes the feet smell (or rather stink), but it is an excellent preventive. Below is a copy of the menu of our Thanksgiving Dinner, which pro-ves the difficulties of feeding an army in France. The only deviation was that fresh goose was substituted for cold-storage turkey, which was not so unwelcome a change at that. It was an excellent meal, but of course I overate, and felt sorry for it afterwards. COMPANY "I", 16th infantry SOMEWHERE IN FRANCE THANKSGIVING DINNER, Nov. 29th, 1917. MENU Pickled Ouioiis Pickled Beets Olives Lobster Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce Chestnut Dressing, Giblet Gravy Creamed Irish Potatoes Cheese Straws Canxdied Sweet? Stewed Corn Green Peas String Beans English Plum Pudding, Hard & Brandy Sauce Waldorf Salad Gold Cake Silver Cake Marble Cake- Ornamented Fruit Cake Peaches Apples Pears Assorted Nuts Raisins Cheese Roman Punch Cafe Noire 21 Letter, Bovee (Meuse), Dec. 2nd. — I'm like Clarence the Cop ! Transferred again ! The cable- gram I sent to Harry yesterday probably proved rather interesting. I am now in the 165th Infantry, which as you will remember is the old GOth N. G. N. Y., one of the regiuients of the 42nd ('^Rain- bow") Division. I got my travel orders at 4 o'clock Friday afternoon, November 30th, directing me to leave on Saturday morning at 8.80 for my present station. And here I am, tho at present I have not been attached to any particular company. That will take place to-morrow, without a doubt. I got here from Demange by motor truck, spend- ing last night in Vaucouleurs (Meuse), which is Division Headquarters. Demange is a metropolis compared to Bovee. At Demange we were on a railroad, whereas here we are eight kilometers from the nearest depot, which, by the way, is about as noticeable as a telegraph pole. The inhabitants of this place number just 250 ! It consists of two streets, a church on one and a cafe on the other, with a few houses and barns in between. Bovee cannot be mistaken for 42nd Street and Broadway during the theatre rush. Oh, it's a grand game, this ! I must say good night in order to beat my lone candle, which threatens to play the stellar role in ^'The Light That Failed." Letter, Dec. 3rd. — I have a fireplace in my room, and by using concentrated imagination, I make myself think that I am warmer. I guess the sight of the fire has its effect. I have been attached to "D^' Company. Letter, Dec. 5th. — You will no doul)t be glad to learn that I have just asked my landlady — all in 22 Freneli, of course — to call me at 6 o'clock each moi-uing or five or ten minutes before, aud to direct my striker to someone who could do my laundry for me, inasmuch as she herself did no work of that kind. I am just beginning- to get acquainted with this benighted language, and I don't think I could ever have learned it in the States. Anyone learn- ing it outside of France is surely to be congratu- lated on his mastery of the language o-f Joan of Arc, who made this part of France famous. Par- don, I should have said Jeanne d'Arc, n'est-ce pas? I have solved the mystery of my dyspeptic fire- place, and altho the wood is very wet and green^ I am managing to get a comfortable amount of heat out of it. I still must keep close to it, for other- wise I could only see the heat without feeling it. The country hereabouts is really beautiful, and I can understand now why all Americans do not believe in the "See America First'' doctrine. This section must furnish many a charming view to tour- ists during peace-time summers. But now it is war- time and winter, and altho there are no signs of w^ar here except the soldiers in town and the ab- sence of male natives of army age, still we are close enough, when the wind is right, to hear the roar of the Allied artillery in the St. Mihiel sector. That noise robs the scene of its beauty. Letter, Dec. 9tii. — Dennis is an Irish Jewel T But, of course, you don't know who Dennis is. Well, Dennis is my striker. I have dry wood, hence a good hot fire. Dennis got it. There is ouly one place where Avood of that nature can be obtained. It doesn't grow that way. I didn't see Dennis get it, but it's here. So I suppose some "frog- eater"' will be Jabbering at a mile-a-minute (as is their wont) to the Adjutant that someone has stolen his. 23 barn door! At that, I don't really know where it came from, for I ask no qnestions on some matters. Isn't it funny how phlegmatic a man can become? These little French villages are funny when seen thru city-bred American eyes. Bovee is evidently four or five hundred years old, and to-day is living up to its age. Each house has two entrances, one an ordinary door, and immediately alongside of it a barn door. A thin partition is usually all that separates the pigs from their owner, and in many cases the partition is very necessary for the distinc- tion to be obvious. The pigs mingle freely with the cows, horses, babies, chickens, dogs, grandmothers, house cats and other cats, mice and sheep ! All seem to get on wonderfully and thrive on the close association. I dare say it is a gift to live that way, but I would much prefer my own (or rather for- mer) style of living. I am happy that my billet is an exception. The live stock is not present in the flesh or in the nostrils. I have heard some officers remark how delightful it was "to go to sleep with the aroma of the cow and to wake up with the ditto of the sheep," the wind having shifted a few de- grees during the night. The towns are quaint and the country itself is really pretty, but, as one bright soul remarked, he did not see why the U. S. was fighting for a rock pile ! There are plenty of rocks around here, and most of the fields abound in them. They are small — just small enough to make walk- ing a severe trial. Dec. 12th. — We started to make a change of sta- tion, the orders being that we were tO' walk. We were informed that the entire distance is about seventy-five miles and that we would make it in six days of walking. The first day we nmrched to Gerauvillers (Meuse), where we spent the night, 24 and the following: day we reached Grand (Vosges). The walking conditions were fair, with the air cool, and the roads for the most part being free of snow and ice. It was hard going for the company wagon, however, which was unfortunate for the men, as it meant late supper. We got nothing to eat at noon, there being no long halt and no facilities for eating. Letter, Grand, Dec. 15th. — This is a somewhat larger town than most of the others I have been in. I am billeted with most delightful French folks who cannot do enough for the Americans, perhaps be- cause we are the first to be quartered here. After marching about fifteen miles on Thursday, when we arrived here I had to go Officer of the Day. I had the town presented to me, with no information except something like this: "Here's the town — post it !" I finally got to bed at 3.15 A. M. Friday, only to get up at 5.45. At C o'clock Friday evening I was relieved, and that I was dead tired you may be sure. I remained in bed until 9.30 this morning, took a hot bath, thanks to the combined efforts of my striker and my landlady, and then felt much refreshed. I am charmed with the friendliness and hospital- ity of the French folk in this section. They do everything in their power to make us comfortable and "at home," and that goes a long ways toward making up for many of the petty annoyances of this life. Every wish — however expressed — is com- plied with to the last degree, and is greatly appre- ciated. I almost feel as tho I am going home when I return to my billet after the day's drill is over. Letter, Dec. 19th. — Of all the funny notices I have ever seen, there is one here that holds the rec- ord. The town barber is in the French Army, and 25 of course away from home. His wife has become so tired of explaining' to the doughboys that there is no one Avho can give them a hair cut or a shave, that she asked the battalion interpreter to write out a sign to be placed in the window, so everyone co'uld see that the shop was not open for business. The sign reads: "The barber has gone to the war and will not return." Not much optimism dis- played in that sign, is there? Letter, Dec. 25th. — Merry Christmas! I hope you have one, tho for me to-day is much the same as any other day with the exception that we have no work to do. Last evening some of the Sergeants fixed up a Christmas tree, using streamers of cut paper in lieu of tinsel, and cartridge shells in place of little trinkets. All the company oflflcers were invited and asked to make a speech, tell a story or sing a song. I made a speech and spun a few dialect yarns. The fun lasted about two hours and was rather enjoy- able. The men seem happy, altho their folks and friends are so far away, and I am joining them in that spirit. It is the only way to do under the cir- cumstances. Many Christmas boxes came in last evening, but I am not disappointed that mine have not reached me, which no doubt is due to my continual chang- ing of station. Christmas Eve, I was Officer of the Day again, and while theie was no excitement of any kind, I saw one of the prettiest sights that I have ever be- held. Shortly before the men began to go to the village church, where the Regimental Cha])lain, Father Duffy, celebrated Midnight Mass, it began to snow — soft, quiet and large flakes — and the ground began to cover immediately. The churcli 2G itself is an old strnetiirc, perhaps eight or nine hundred years old, ornamented with magnificent stained glass windows. It was not a very dark night l)y any means. Imagine, therefore, the fall- ing snow, the outline of the church against the half- bright sky, the light streaming thru the stained glass windows of the church, the ground covered white, and the men in khaki and the villagers all converging toward the massive carved main door of the church ! It was a scene such as one reads about in stoi-ies, but seldom has the good fortune to see. It was an ideal Christmas picture. Dec. 25x11. — The mess sergeant prepared a very creditable Christmas Dinner for the Company, in which the officers shared. The dinner itself was really good, but the conditions under which it had to be enjoyed were not the best. I ate mine sitting on the wood pile in the cook shack, with all the good things mixed together on one dish, just the same as all the others had to do. But it tasted fine, even if the chestnuts were floating in the SLe\yed corn and the turnips mixed with the plum pudding. In the evening, the officers of the Com- pany had another dinner in one of the houses of the village, and while it was not as typically Amer- ican as the other, it was excellently prepared and nicely served. Dec. 26tii.— We took to the road again, and this time marched to Chalvraines (Hte. Marne), a dis- tance of about sixteen miles. It continued to snow, and the ground was fairly well covered, making walking rather difficult. Likewise, it had grown quite cold and the wind blew strongly across ex- ])osed ])laces. That night I had no sleep, merely getting three hours of so called rest on a few pine 27 boughs ill the corner of a deserted French army barracks, with only one blanket to cover nie. It was too cold for sleep. I did not turn in until after one in the morning, having waited up for the com- pany wagon to arrive, so as to be sure the stove was set up for the morning. Dec. 27th. — We marched to Noyers (Hte. Maine), the difficulties of the road increasing with almost every step. Some of the men seemed to suf- fer severely from bad feet, and the company officers, including myself, helped the men by carrying their rifles at times or taking their packs for a couple of miles, and I wound up the day by half-carrying one of the men whose feet went bad, for the last three miles. Dec. 28th. — The night found us in Neuilly- L'Eveque (Hte. Marne). We took a short cut for the last few kilometers, and, while it was shorter, it led us thru banks of deep snow on a by- road that had not been used by anyone since the start of the storm. It snowed on and off, and continued to get colder. Dec. 29th. — This was the last day of the march, and the night brought us to our new station, the town of Heuilley-Coton (Hte. Marne). This was by far the toughest of the six days of walking. The Avind was icy, the roads either being covered with snow or slippery as glass, and our hobnailed field shoes slid continuously. Excluding the fact that there is more danger in the trenches, I consider that this hike was far more trying than the life in the trenches. It was a real hardship, especially when one considers that we 28 had nothing to eat at noon, and only one slice of bread, molasses and vile coffee in the morning. The evening meal was served at any hour when the com- pany wagon arrived, and when it did not arrive until midnight, the men had to shift for themselves. At Chalvraines, but for the kindness of the French Commandant of the town, there would have been absolutely nothing for the men to eat, and as it was they did not get supper until eight o'clock, having had their breakfast at half-past six that morning ! The roads were so slippery that the mules could not pull the wagon, even after they had dumped off the ofiticer&v bedding rolls to lighten the load, MJiicli they did on the 26th. One day it took them eighteen hours to go- fifteen miles, with a de- tail of sixteen men to help the four mules. The whole affair was a hardship, and I believe we felt it more keenly because we knew that we could have made the trip by train in one day— if tlie orders liad read that way. Letter, Heuilley-Coton, Dec. 30th. — The coun- try hereabouts is really beautiful, but the difficul- ties of the road rather obscured all sense of the aesthetic. I came thru in good shape, tho- my shoesi Avere wet almost constantly. I wore the same pair of shoes that I had used in tlie trenches and they are about \\'orn out, having holes in the soles of both shoes. I hope to be able to change my under^^ear before long — and it is much too cold for cotton pajamas at night! I have, however, been able to get two baths this month, so I consider that I have had one bath and a half more than my share of luxury. Letter, New Year's Eve. — Tonight does not mean a great deal to me. For me, the sun Avill 29 rise to-morrow on another day merely — not the first sun of tlie New Year. Sitting" here with my k)ne candle, which has about one hour's more life to it — it is fitting that it should burn out before the end of the year — brings thoughts of our little gathering at home last year. Do you remend)er it? I know I do — in fact, it is only too unpleasantly on my mind at this moment. I say "unpleasantly'' because of the difference in New Year's Eve this year. It is now nearing ten o'clock; I cannot hear a single tin horn or rattler, the town is sound asleep, my fire is going out, and so is my last candle. Why waste two hours waiting in the dark for — what? No doubt, to-morrow's sun will have a cheering in- fluence, and I will i:»repare for it with a good night's sleep. So I'll stop now, by hoping that the New Year will bring happiness to the hundreds of millions of poor souls affected by this awful world's war. Letter, Jan. 2nd, 1918. — Just a line, close on the heels of ni}^ last one, to let you know that I have regained my mental equilibrium. I am in good spirits again ! Speaking of spirits, I did not take a single drink on New Year's Eve or January 1st. Plenty of it ever-^^w^here, but I just did not feel like drinking. Letter, Jan. 5th. — I am now the "police officer" of the town. No, I am not the chief of police ; rath- er I am "Highway and Sanitary Commissioner." It is my job to see that the boulevards are mani- cured properly, that latrines are kept clean and sanitary, that garbage pits are used for garbage only, etc. The military prisoner-s are assigned to the broom and shovel work, under my direction. I am relieved from company duties, so it is quite easy. 30 Instructive and interesting about £ums up the situ- ation. Letter, Jan. 12tii, to P. A. Dillon. — Your let- ter of November 14tli reached nie about noon two days ago, and an hour later the little medal plus, a borrowed safety pin adorned my left breast, there to remain both night and day. You see, it is too cold in the morning to take time changing from pajanuis to underwear, so the latter has to do twenty-four hours' service. I fully appreciate the kindly and interested spirit which prompted you to send this medal, and I would be a poor sort of a narrow-minded, bigoted cuss if I did not wear it all the time. And should I lose it — and I hope I won't — I am going to make an immediate noise for another I On pJanuary 12th the battalion surgeon ordered me to my quarters with 102 degrees of temperature, and an attack of laryngitis and bro-nchitis, which I had doubtless contracted while in charge of a fatigue party, sent to a neighboring town to get hari-ack bags and trunks. The party returned along tlie tow-i)ath of a canal, in the rain, sleet and raw wind, and the ground wasi very wet. The pace was slow, and I could not move fast enough to keep waiiii. Jan. 14til — While still in bed in my quarters, I received a si)ocial order directing me to report att Chaumont to the Chief Quartermaster, for assign- ment to temporary duty with the Quartermaster CovpH. Tho sick, I got out of bed immediately, packed my tiunk, and commandeered the company wagon to take my baggage to the railroad station, a mile and a half away. I was determined to get out of t()\vn before anyone had time to change his mind and countermand mv travel orders. 31 Jan. 15th. — I left town at about eight o'clock in the morning, which was the first train that I could get after receiving my orders. I spent five hours in Langres (Hte. Marne), waiting for train connections, and reached Chanmont at half -past six in the evening. Jan. IGth. — I reported to the Personnel Officer in tlie office of the Chief Quartermaster, and after I had been put thru an examination as to what I had done in civil life, I heard the most welcome news that I was to go to Paris ! I reached there at 10 P. M. Letter, Paris, Jan. 17th. — Pursuant to a special order, I have been assigned for temporary duty with the General Purchasing Board, and am now sta- tioned in Paris. The General Purchasing Board has offices in the Hotel Mediterranee on the Quai de la Rapee and purchases all the materiel bought in Prance for the A. E. F. From what I heard, I believe my past experience as a purchasing agent accounts for the assignment. Letter, Jan. 20th. — I am now comfortably set- tled in the Pension St. Raphael, 5 rue des Pyra- mides, and my room is entirely in order, Avith every- thing in its place and a place for everything. All that I need now is a letter or two from home to make me happy. I have had none from you since the batch received about a month ago. I am quite sure that I shall like it here. I have a nice large outside room, with plenty of shelf and closet space. The large window^ opens out onto a balcony of limited proportions from which I can see the statue of Jeanne d'Arc. 32 The attack of broncliitis and laryngitis wliicli laid me up from Friday to Monday has jmssed and I feel absolutely well again. Letter, Jan. 25th. — The work I am doing is in- teresting; it takes me almost all over the city, and into some of the suburbs as well. I have been given charge of the preparation and shipment of "dub- bin,'' more commonly known as waterproof shoe grease. I suppose that I was assigned to this ( with true army perverseness) because I know nothing about it at all ! I am able to secure the use of a Ford for the big jumps, so I manage to get around fairly well. The chauffeurs are French veterans, most of them wounded to the extent of unfitting them for active military service. The one I had to-day has been cited four times for bravery, but you would never think it to look at him. He seems very quiet and retiring; but what a daredevil of a chauffeur he is ! He was an aviator, which probably accounts for it. The "pension" is a veritable house of all nations. There were six of us in the parlor after dinner a few evenings ago, and six nationalities were repre- sented : France, England, Greece, Belgium, Mexico and the United States. In addition, there is, to my knowledge, an Arabian and an Italian. Everyone talks French— except myself— quite fluently and tliey get along real well. The Mexican, Italian and Arab sit at my table, and use Spanish a large part of the time for their conversation. Oh, it's a great little world I am living in — and interesting, too ! Send me some American milk chocolate and crackers ! I can buy Uneedas and hard tack at the commissary, but I do not like either over much, and Fi-encli crackers are tasteless, the chocolate beino^ 33 not much better. Ask anyone why, and the answer comes quite readily, '^c'est la gnei-re." That expres- sion covers anything in the line of poor quality, high prices or small quantity. I have, however, had some perfectly delicious French pastry, tho it is both hard to find and high in price compared to what it was before the war. Living in Paris is ruinously high for a poor sec- ond lieutenant. To give you some idea of the cost of living here — a ten-cent cake of inferior chocolate costs 27 cents. I saw a sign this morning allotting families 21 pounds of soft coal a week for 3nnnhair movee congratulated ; just think, nothing at all to do ex- cept eat and sleep. Letter, July 6th.— The Fourth of July Celebra- tion is, of course, the most interesting news I have. It might be summed up by relating what a French- man told me after tlie parade was over. He said that not in twenty years had he ever seen such gen- Gl nine entlinsiasm shown by a Parisian crowd ! I can well believe that too. The enthusiasm was spon- taneous, boisterous and certainly sincere and coi'dial. It was not one of those inspired forms of enthusiasm, such as one would expect Fritz to show when ordered to do so by the Supreme Devil; in- stead it was inspiring, contagious and sincere, such as a free people give vent to to express their a])- preciation for helj) received from another country. I have always realized that the French appreciate fully America's aid, and the demonstration for the United States last Thursday was enough to remove the last shadow of doubt from anyone's mind. I was present at the parade, and it seemed that all of Pai-is was there also. The str-eets were crowd- ed with people, all were in wonderful humor, and laughter was everywhere. This is the first time in some years that the French people have felt like showing their joy -loving dispositions, and they showed it Thursday with a vengeance. On every side one heard how magnificently the Americans marched — truly they did march well — and while a battalion of poilus was in line also, it was America's Day, and everywhere it was praise for her and her sons. I enjoyed the parade thoroly, feeling proud that I am an American, and in the evening I went to a dance, to continue the good time that I had started in the morning. 62 The Parisian Mitrailleuse. It's sure no boast of mine That I've been in the line Where you brave the worst and trust that all goes well. Where mighty cannons roar, And dauntless birdmen soar, Where sleepless eyes stand guard o'er darkest hell. Where you think of what you've had Before the world got mad, 'Ere we set our course to trim the heartless Hun ; But these dangers can't compare With the inch you have to spare When Paris taxis make you take it on the run! The oath you took demands That you obey commands, So you travel 'bout the city all the day; But if you don't take care And stand somewhere and stare At sights- — some queer and others quite risque : I'm sure you soon will find There's more to bear in mind Than dreaming at some ancient pile of rock ; As sure as you are born, A squawking taxi horn Will wake you — when it's passed about a block I Or then you may have made A most successful raid In a little game that's played by five or so; Your purse is filled with bills. You quit the sidewalk's thrills To speed in ease to where you have to go. The meter's cursed greed Reflects the taxi's speed — At the journey's end you boil, and howl and rave„ It's no use for you to vent Your feelings on this gent ; For he's French — and will be talking in his grave !• If you took the fools of France And gave them, half a chance, You would make a really winning combination ; Give each of them a wheel, A spark plug and some steel, And you'd, have these star performers of this nation. 63 They ought to be restrained, They're wild — they're but half-brained, But they have their place by day as well as night. If taxies were real old, Then Sherman might have told "The taxi sure is hell !" and Sherman — he'd be right ! Letter^ July 15th. — I saw the parade yesterday in honor of Bastille Day, from the window of a business fii ni with which I am acquainted, and that fortunately for me has its showrooms along the line of march. I had an excellent view, and witnessed one of the most interesting reviews that I have ever seen. In line were troops of France, United States, England, Scotland, New Zealand, Australia, Can- ada, Greece, Portugal, Italy, Polish Legion of the French Army, and Serbia, also detachments of French Marines. Almost all of the men carr-ied bouquets of flowers that were showered on them by the enthusiastic population. Everybody was happy and gay, and it was hard to realize that the front line is only a matter of forty or forty-five miles from Paris. I liked it even better than the Fourth of July parade. The Americans in line came in for their full share of the applause that was going around rather freely, but I think that the honors for good marching went to the British Tommies. The greatest amount of applause went to France's Blue Devils, and well they deserved it, too ! The weather has been showery for the past week or ten days, and part of the parade of yesterday was held in anything but favorable weather. It seems to rain off and on every day now, but if that helps to keep down the number and intensity of the air raids, I am satisfied. 64 Letter^ July 18tii. — Lieut. Forehand, one of the two officers who are living with me, has been ordered to Italy for duty and Avill leave to-morrow or the day after. After my experiences changing living companions so much, I am afraid I will have to alter my style of living. Letter^ July 25th. — I have been spending quite a number of evenings by taking short walks and resting a while on the chairs that line the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, It is both interesting and restful to watch the crowds that throng there dur- ing these beautiful summer evenings. The twilights are very long, and due to the daylight saving ]>lan, it is not really dark before ten o'clock. The air is mild, and this mildness combined with the marvel- ous twilights make a delightful way to spend the evening. Letter, July 28th. — I attended a performance of "Madame Butterfly" at the Comedie Francaise last Thursday night. I had a military pass, which admitted me to the theatre, but I arrived late, as the curtain rises at 7.30, and had to stand during the entire show. It was well worth it tho, for I en- joyed it from beginning to end. While I was in the hall tliis morning, walking- towards the Colonel's office, who comes around a turn but Harry ! He was on his way from the hos- pital to the casual camp at Blois for assignment to duty in the S. O. S., and a mighty healthy speci- men of humanity he appeared to be, too ! I gave him a bath — or rather, I provided the accommoda- tions for him to take one himself — and after that I took him over to the apartment and stuffed a good lunch into him. Judging from his appetite, there is mii^htv little the matter with him. He walks 05 apparently as well as anyone I ever saw, and be looks fine. After Inncli 1 took him to two places, fanions for their drinks, then escorted him to the train and saw him safely on his way to Blois. Letter^ Aug. 4th. — This is Sunday, and to-day I am detailed as Officer of the Day, and have to re- main at the office for the entire day. This really does not mean a thine, except that I have to be here and take care of any telegrams or telephone messages that might come in, and between times I am trying to catch up with my correspondence. Last night I attended another dance, bnt did not do mnch dancing, as it was almost too warm for that form of indoor sport. Letter^ Aug. 4th to M, L. Sipser. — We have been free from air raids for a very long time, and the long range gnn has been silent even longer, and now that they have pushed the front away from Paris, I presume that the gun will have to be per- Aianently quiet, at least as far as the Paris district is concerned. Letter, Aug. 12th. — Yesterday, tho being Sun- day, was one of the hardest days I have ever put in in my life, but I believe that the hard work will be over before very long. I worked yesterday from nine in the morning until eleven at night, my efforts being directed toward getting out a most volumin- ous report. Not bad for a Sunday in summer, is it? And I had worked until quite late on Saturday night, too. Letter, Aug. 25th. — My work has been changed, and I am now in the Metal and Manufacturing Branch, Avorking with Lieut. Chauncey McCorniick, GG of Chicago. My work is in the nature of purchas- ing, tho at the present time I am engaged in straightening out his records. When that has been accomplished, even more of my time will be devoted to i)urchasing. The change is most welcome and work is much more interesting. It is not nearly as hard or as tiresome as it was in the Delivery Division, and I am sincerely happy that the Colonel has seen fit to make this change (Avhich I requested). We have had three extremely warm days, which I have figured out in Fahrenheit to be about 00 to 1)3 degrees. It was hot a-plenty, but inasmuch as it is the first really hot weather we have had this sum- mer, I don't suppose that I ought to complain. Letter^ Aug. 31st. — I am still living in the same apartment, having succeeded in finding two other officers who were looking for quarters. Their names are Behring of San Antonio, Texas, and Kelly of Utica, N. Y. We still have the same maid, and things are going along nicely, as heretofore. The expenses of the past month have been very heav} ^ due to only two of us living together, but now tliat is passed. The new job is going along nicely, all night and Sunday work being eliminated. I like it better also, as it gives me much more opportunity to speak French. I now find that I am faii-ly "at home" in the matter of speaking French, and am sure, if this work keeps up, that by the time I return to the States, I will be able to carry on a rather respect- able conversation in the language native to the Frog. The work itself is quite interesting, and I am now doing some purchasing of metal and hollow- ware. G7 Lettek, Sept. 2nd.— Lient. Kelly lias been or- dered away from Paris, but this time I am quite sure that it will be rather easy to find someone to take his place, as I know of several officers who are looking- for quarters. It is, however, not pleasant to be obliged to change living mates so often, and I hope that this is the last time I will have to make a change for some time to come. I spent a very delightful KSunday visiting the beauties of Versailles. I was fortunate enough to make the trip in the company of Captain Organ (retired) of the French Army, who knew what he wanted to see, and how to go about seeing it ; so in spite of much of the Palace being closed to visitors, I was able to see a great part of it, to say nothing of the grounds. It is wonderful, and far beyond my powers of description. The paintings, wood-work, metal-work, and all of that is the most remarkable that I have ever seen, or ever expect to see, for that matter. The grounds are marvelous. The many foun- tains and wooded walks, the lawns, flower-beds, the statues, all are indelibly stamped upon my memory. I spent a most interesting hour rowing about on the charming artificial lake. It is the first time that I have had a chance to row in France. We had lunch in a little restaurant under the trees by the shore of the lake. That, in itself, was quite a treat. A most enjoyable day, and we were favored by Aveather not too warm, tho a bit showery in the early part. It cleared up and became a most per- fect afternoon. Letter, Sept. 7th. — One year ago to-day I left the United States, and all that it means. T have GS started the celebration by putting another service chevron on my left sleeve. I saw in the paper the other day that 2nd Lieut. Sydney Cole has been killed in action. He was one of my bunkies at Plattsburgh, and took over my platoon in the 10th Infantry when I left it to go to the 42n(l Division. I saw him in Paris about a month ago, and now I read that he has been killed. Too bad ! The offlcers of my old company in the IGStli Infantry have all either been killed or wound- ed, some of the latter twice. Many, many officers that I knew have gone the way from which there is no returning, and all of them died with their boots on, giving Fritzie hell all the while. I am dying for a piece of good American choco- late! There is absolutely none to be had here, as all of the chocolate that the Army is buying for the Sales Commissaries is being sent to the front Avhere, as a matter of fact, it is needed more. None of us here kick about this, but we do miss an occasional bite of something sweet. Letter^ Sept. 17th. — I made a two days' trip to the City of Rennes the end of last week, in connec- tion with the inspection and delivery of some of our l)urchases. I found it a most attractive city, the following amusing incident reflecting upon the de- caying age of France: I was informed by one of the natives that the city was quite modern, having been rebuilt since the fire which burned down most of the city some years ago. I naturally inquired how long ago, and was told, "Oh, about 150 years !" In otliei- words, anything which is not cracked rfnd moldy is new. I left Paris on Friday morning last and reached the city again near midnight on Saturday. A pleas- ant little break in the routine of business it was, too. 69 The apartment is goino alono fine. Lient. Kelly has left, hnt his place was quickly filled by 2n(l Lieut. E. A. Boudrean, from Maine, so we are again filled np. Letter, Sept. 30th.— I've been away again for five days, and came back on Friday, and started my return to Paris with the most famous cold in his- tory. I still have it, and if it wasn't that I put my- self to bed at four o'clock Saturday afternoon, I am sure that I would now be suffering from a case of grippe. The trip itself was a corker, I had to get up at all hours to catch trains and had to wait interminably for connections. I went to Nonancourt (Eure), Connerre (Sarthe), Fecamp, Rouen and Le Havre ( Seine Inf erieure ) . It was a tough trip, with many discomforts, and I can best give you an idea of it by describing my experiences at Beaute-Beuzeville, where I had to make connections between Fecamp and Le Havre. Have you ever been in this town? Well, for a word of description of this wonderfully thriving metropolis, which is probably eight or nine hundred years old — and looks it. Besides the crumbling "gare,'' with its necessary evil, the "chef," there seems to be the usual proportion of one cafe to every six inhabitants, including those who have gone away to the war. It is now almost six o'clock- more familiarly knowTi as "aperatif moins cinq" — and at this moment all eight cafes are crowded. I strolled into the buffet of the Gare for a but- terless sandwich and a sugarless coffee on a table- clothless table. xVn undersized Frenchman, in a red braided cap, stuck his head in the door, and in stentorian, but un-understandable French, veiled '0 something that sounded to me like a cross between "Forty-second Street, Grand Central Station, change here for Queensboro Subway," and "Lake Shore Limited will arrive on Track 46." I thought I had better investigate. I went to the Bulletin Board and saw that this uproar meant that the train was only one hour and fifteen minutes late. The column devoted to the cause bore one word "Rouen." I then knew there must be some mys- tery somewhere, and I looked up several code books for a solution of the puzzle. If a city of 70,000 people is a reason for delaying a train one hour and a quarter, why in thunder didn't they run around it, or do something equally sensible? I waited and the train finally came along one hour and three-quarters late. It just had to con- tinue losing time in order to maintain its batting- average, and so, finally, and thoroly disgusted, I took my leave of Beaute-Beuzeville. Speaking of leaving, it is no easy or simple mat- ter to start a train in France. In America, some one shouts "All aboard," waves his arm once, and the train starts. Not so here. In the first place, that direct American method does not furnish jobs for enough people, and there is not sufficient talk- ing to make it effective. Let us take a look at the way it is done here. The Chef de Gare, looks at his watch and calls his: two, three or four Sous-Chefs into executive session, and they agree that they might just as well start the train as hold it any longer. The Chef then shouts, "en voiture," and the sous-chefs gO' the entire length of the train closing the doors to the cells. The Chef toots his whistle, the exalted rubber-col- lared functionar-y, who corresponds to our conduc- tor, blows a conch horn, the engineer opens the steam whistle and then — but not until then — loosens" the brakes. The Chef and the engineer wig wag cryptic greetings, wishing to be remembered to each other's wives no doubt, the train backs up a few meters, and then the little watch charm starts forward, only to stop at another station before it has had a chance to reach its maximum speed of thirty kilometers per day. To all of this, at night, you must add about two minutes of frantic and de- lirious lantern-waving. On this little trip tliat I liave just made, I had an astounding experience. I met and talked to two Chefs de Gare, who seemed to know sometliing, and were quite willing to impart their knowledge. I asked one what time a particular train left, and he actually knew without consulting his time-tables, and of the other I inquired if a certain train had a first-class coach. He almost kissed me; quite startled, I demanded an explanation, and was told that it did and that he had not sold a first-class ticket for that train since the war began. Some day I am going to return to those two towns and capture these Chefs. They are coming to Paris with me, where I will put them on exhibition among the other war curiosities in the Hotel des In- valides. A general idea of conditions of travel is best ex- pressed b}' the following tabulation of the first three days of my trip : Work 3 :40 Sleep 12 :20 Travelling 15 :00 Waiting for trains 41 :00 Total 72:00 Hours. While there seems to be no time allowed for eating, I did not starve. The time for eating is inchided in the first three items. And snch is travelling in France during the war. Letteje_, Oct. 4th. — I had the extreme pleasure of cabling yesterday that I had been promoted to the grade of First Lieutenant. I was recommended on May 5th for a captaincy, and it took almost five months for all the necessary endorsements and for- malities to be gone thru before the answer finally reached me, making me a First Lieutenant. I sent mother my photo yesterday, properly auto- graphed and marked for identification. B^^ it you can well see that the "Battle of Paris" is agreeing with me, also Marie's cooking. I have surely gained some weight, altho I really do not know liow much. It is too much mathematics to get on a Frog scale, find out the number of kilos, and then change them to i)ounds. But I am somewhat stouter. Letter, Oct. 17th. — The enclosed label is to be used on the Christmas package which you will please send me. Notice the demand ! The contents are to be : Three of the heaviest pounds of the sweet- est milk chocolate that you can find. That is the one thing that I miss most in this sugarless coun- try. All chocolate is scarce over here, and good chocolate is a rarity. The Frog variety of this jjarticular commodity is far from sweet, very ex- pensive and extremely hard to find. We moved Tuesday to 21 Rue Descamps. We had to quit the Ave. MacMahon apartment, as the lady from whom we rented it on a month-to-month lease, wanted it back. The new place, from the present outlook, will suit us just as well as the old, tho it is not quite as handy to reach. It is twice the dis- 73 taiice from the office, but in as good a quarter of the city, and I am sure that we will enjoy it there as well as we did the old place. We now have two chaps from the American Em- bassy living with ns. Both hail from Providence, R. I., and their names are Trainor and Cirino. We changed maids, keeping the one that was there be- fore ns, when six of the Embassy staff, inchuling Trainor and Cirino, had the apartment. I have a nice large room all to myself, right next to the bath- room, and I tind the bed equally as comfortable as the one I had to give up. The display of guns and other war trophies in Paris to boost the French Loan is most interesting and attracting great crowds. It seems as tho Fritz is shy some ordnance, to judge by the thousand or so pieces on display. Life is brightening up remark- ably in Paris. Many of the lights — -which before the war earned for Paris the sobriquet of "La Ville Lumiere" — are now lit at night in place of the sul- len blue lamps of the air raid days. The fountains in the Place de la Concorde were flowing on Satur- day for the first time since they were turned off at the beginning of the war. The amount of traffic everywhere in Paris has visibly increased, altho the strings of vehicles of the pre-war days that filled the Champs Elysees and the Avenue du Bois are still memories and dreams. There seems to be more push and momentum everywhere, and I am now almost willing to believe that all will be over before many more months pass. The feeling seems to be in the air! The new apartment is fine! The maid that we took in place of Marie proved a most taking crook — not cook — but w^as unscientific in her helpings. She did not limit herself to overcharging for the purchases she made, but stole part of what she 74 actually bought, and of course was discovered. We discharged her bright and early Sunday morning, I prepared lunch with the aid of a can-opener and Washington Coffee; we went out for dinner, and early Monday morning, in time to get our break- fasts, Marie was back in the kitchen, and now all is serene once more. Lieut. Townsend was ordered away from Paris, so now we are only five. I think I will stage a show of my own, entitled "They Come and Go!" but I am afraid it will require too large a cast. Letter^ Rennes, Oct. 23rd. — Here I am back in Rennes again. I left Paris at 7.30 this morning and arrived here on time (for a wonder) at 3 P. M., after an uneventful trip, except for a scrap with the maitre d'hotel on the diner, which wound up by his getting only one sou for a tip ! Letter, Oct. 27th. — I got back from Rennes on Thursday evening at eight fifteen, after a nice quiet little trip. Letter, Nov. 2nd. — On October 31st we had a little party of a real bohemian nature. Joe Trainor proposed a little celebration for Hallowe'en, so we invited some American girls up to the apartment, two of them coming for supper. Two others came in after supper, and another civilian from the Em- bassy. We spent a very pleasant evening, includ- ing a bite of lunch at about eleven thirty. There is quite a difference between living in Paris and in New York, where a party of this nature would be frowned upon severely by all the matrons in the city. It was enjoyable, and aftei* taking home one of the girls, who comes from Chicago, 111., V. S- ID A., Roumania and Paris, I was under the covers at 1 A. M. Nov. llTII AND 12tII. Armistice Hostilities. I arose on Monday morning, November 11th, full of hopeful expectancy ; dressed and went to the of- fice in much the same frame of mind. Rumors were rampant, and finally at about 9.30, a Frenchman told me that the armistice had been signed. He seemed so honestly happy and sincere that I could not help believing- him. I told Lieut. McCormick, and he telephoned to one of his friends at the Min- istere de L'Armement. The good news was con- firmed and immediately work stopped for the day. Then started a two days' orgy of whole-hearted, spontaneous and unconstrained joy. Whole-heart- ed, yes — for don't you think that the culmination of four years of unlit streets, restrictions on this and that, casualty lists, tales of murderous and wan- ton destruction, could only find expression in whole- hearted joy? Spontaneous, too, for was there any previous occasion or time to prepare for the won- derful deliverance from the world's greatest peril? Unconstrained, surely, you would have to be devoid of all yonr senses not to feel that — unconstrained because of its whole-heartedness and spontaneity. To relate all that happened is an impossibility, if only for the fact that the crowds were so dense that one could not get thru them. My own experi- ences are perhaps quite typical and will no doubt give an excellent idea of what happened elsewhere. After lunch at home, at which a little wine was added by way of celebration, I went downtown in 76 a limousine with Lieut, Boudiean and a friend of his, a French lieutenant. We headed for the Boule- vards, displaying from the windows of the car a sign reading "Abri, 25 places, defense de fumer" (Shelter against air raids, 25 places, smoking for- bidden). It provoked laughter and humorous re- marks from all sides, particularly from the French policemen. At 2.30 I left them, called for a friend of mine, and then went towards the hub of the fun — the Place de I'Opera. Crowds! Never have I seen anything like it! All the election night and New Year's Eve jams looked like country town proces- sions — completely dwarfed in the comparison. It took half an hour to get across the Place de L'0])era from the Cafe de la Paix to the other side. Don't forget that it was all good-natured — no ill-will or anger being shown anywhere. People were pushed, shoved and jammed — toes tramped upon, hats torn off — but everyone laughed, the victims included. We went along the Boulevards as far as the Cafe de Madrid, which is just beyond Hue Drouot. The crowd was everywhere and getting worse each sec- ond. We went into the Cafe to drink a toast to the victory and found the crowd there as dense as out- side and even more boisterous. Champagne was flowing like water back home, ever-ybody was sing- ing — the Marseillaise, of course, being the favorite — and shouting "Vive la France! Vive TAmeriquer Viva la Victoire!'' the glasses clicking to the words of the toasts. Who would want to eat dinner at home on a night like that when the whole world — except Bil- lions Bill and his, funeral cortege — was out making'- merry? So I reserved a table for dinner at the Madrid, and we left about Ave o'clock. After more 77 struggliii<>, we reached the Metro, each going home, to meet again at seven to go to dinner. I never will forget that dinner. On the way in two girls on the terrace of the Cafe spotted me. and shonting '^Vive rAmericain," proceeded to punctu- ate their sincerity by repeatedly kissing me on each cheek. With true French politeness, I returned the compliment. I cite this one incident to show how tlie kissing habit was in vogue. And remember that these two girls were with two healthy French officers. Everybody kissed everybody else, regard- less of flu germs. I never was kissed so often in one day in my whole life, but I won't burden the narrative with mention of all the offensive and de- fensive kissing that was going around. The maitre d'hotel was waiting to show us our table, by virtue of a generous tip previously given him. We were not hungry, but had a delightful dinner of frogs' legs, beefsteak and French fr-ied potatoes and coffee. Nearly everything else on the menu was scratched off ; the house was sold out ! Everyone talked to everyone else. The restaurant was wild and the service terrible, but nobody cared. Who wanted to eat anyhow? The city authorities permitted the cafes to remain open until 11 o'clock, tlio as a matter of fact, no attempt was made to close up on the moment. Some incidents were amusing. A one-armed Bel- gian officer made the rounds, kissing every officer he met, and he did not skip me! On one table, a Frenchman, American and Belgian stood shouting, "Vive la Victoire!" their arms locked about each other's shoulders. Men and women changed hats. English, French, Belgians and Americans, changed parts of uniforms and headgear, with ludicrous re- sults singing their national anthems and toasting each other wildly. At eleven we left. Someone stole my overseas cap, bnt I borrowed a hat from a hospital corps sergeant and got home in that. But why worry — wasn't it worth it? The next day was jnst as bad. I Aveut to the office in the morning, but there was absolutely- no work. At noon, I went downtown to a little tea room I know on Rue de TEchelle, with the same friend, and after lunch we made another tour of the Boulevards as far as the Porte St. Denis. We stood watching: the crowd until four o'clock, and then walked thru Rue St. Denis to the Place de FHotel de Ville, where we listened to a concert by the band of the Garde Municipale. Then to the home of some friends, to sample some of their private stock, which was re- served only for very special occasions. I went home for supper, and afterwards to the home of some other friends for further celebration, finally getting heme at midnight, dead tired after two days of boisterous, nerve-racking celebration, I can't possibly describe all of the laughable and original things I saw. Countless effigies of the now crownless Kaiser and his silly son were held aloft by delirious poilus ; German helmets, ''abri" signs, skeletons representing the Clown Quince's own pri- vate regiment; these are but samples of what the crowd used to show their feelings. They took the guns from the Place de la Concorde and paraded thru the streets with them, the police not attempt- ing to interfere, in fact, not wanting to. The street lamps were lit, lights brightened the cafe terraces^ that had been dark but a few days before, festoons of colored lights were draped on the walls of build- ings, and in some cases across the street. Above all were the masses of flags and bunting — the bright colors of the Allies and the United States seeming' to proclaim the approaching dawn of Peace.. 79 The statues of Brest, Rouen, Lille and Strasbourg in the Place de la Concorde were beautifully deco- rated, particularly that of Strasbourg. The crowd stood around it as tho it were a living thing, and men at various times harangued the crowd on the subject of the now returned Lost Provinces. The Eiffel Tower showed bright lights at its top. The enormous anti-aircraft searchlights M'aved an enthusiastic greeting across the darkened heavens. From West to East and from North to South these bright eyes seemed to tell me that the storm had isassed — never more to return. It is over — this celebration ! And I am happy it was my excellent good luck to have been able to see it all, tO' throw myself carefree into the business of celebrating the approach of world-wide peace and happiness. Letter^ Nov. 22nd. — The Alsace-Lorraine Cele- bration of last Sunday was a much tamer at¥air than that on November 11th. I saw the parade from the windows of the Ely see Palace Hotel, and after the parade went to Fouquet's and celebrated in honor of the return of the Lost Provinces. The streets of Paris are now quite well illumi- nated at night, and it is a pleasure to be abroad after dark ! Father's Day Letter^ Nov. 24th. Dear Dad : At last the daddies have come into their own, and a special day has been set aside for the men of the A. E. F. to write to tliem — for once neglecting the Mothers! We are informed that we can tell what we have seen, giving the names of places, dates, organiza- so tions, etc., but in the famous Battle of Paris or the storming of Cognac Hill, in both of which I have actively participated, perhaps the less said the bet- ter. But you know that it is not my fault that I am on S. 6. S. duty in the Q. M. C. The Q;. M. C. was not my choice. I have done my bit as I had been told to do, and hope that by so doing, I have caused you to feel a measure of pride; enough, at least, to enable you to hold your head high along with the rest of the daddies, whose boys are over here. And let me tell 3'ou, Dad, that I don't know a single Yank here who does not want to get back to his folks! Here in Paris we consider we have ''the cream of the A. E. F.," and still we yearn, all of us, for our own firesides, the homes where we can find our parents, relatives and friends, where we can talk and be sure to be understood, where things seem to us to be natural and as God intended they should be. And those very firesides would not be worth re- turning to if it were not for the daddies — the ones who have worked long and 'hard to give their sons an education and the other requisites that make the boys more fit for a larger place under the sun ! So don't think. Dad, that because I have ad- dressed my envelopes to mother, that you have ever been forgotten. I am coming back some day and then for a grand reunion ! I am longing for it now I Letter^ Dec. 4th. — I had a good view of His Majesty, King George V, last Thursday, and hope to have the same opportunity to-morrow of seeing^ the King of the Belgians. Lieut. Behring, who is living in the apartment Avith us, was taken to the hospital at Neuilly about ten days ago with an attack of influenza, A\'hicb 81 quickly developed into pneumouia, but he is now Avell on the road to recovery. He was lucky that he only had a comparatively slight touch of pneu- monia, and that he had the proper medical atten- tion in good time. Letter^ Dec. 9th. — I saw the arrival of King Al- bert on Thursday last, from a well elevated posi- tion on the Avenue du Bois. It was interesting, but almost everyone in Paris feels that the recep- tions accorded to the Kings of England and Bel- gium in no way will comi)are with that which will be extended to President Wilson next Saturday. It is reported that he will arrive at Porte Dauphine at ten in the morning, whereas the two monarchs arrived at two thirty in the afternoon. Lieut. Boudreau, who is the Railroad Transpor- tation Officer at Headquarters in Paris, has been selected to accompany the Presidential trains from Brest to Paris, and make arrangements for their loading and unloading. He is lucky, for that is quite an honor to be bestowed upon a shavetail. I went to threatre twice last week. I saw "La Verite toute Nue," at the Theatre du Gymnase, and "Phi-Phi" at La Bouffe-Parisienne, both of which were excellent. As a matter of fact I have been to quite a number of shows in the past two or three months, but frequently have forgotten to mention it. Letter^ Dec. 15th. — The President arrived in Paris yesterday morning. I had a good view of the Foiemost American from the top of a ladder care- fully planted on the Avenue du Bois. I was up bright and early in order to get a good place, and after an hour's wait, the Presidential Salute of twentv-one guns announced his arrival at 10 82 o'clock. He came along with M. Poincare, both of them wearing broad smiles, and seemed to be genu- inely pleased with the hearty and noisy reception accorded by the French people. The noise far over- shadowed that upon the arrival of either King George or King Albert, and there is no doubting now the sincerity of the French towards President Wilson. The people went wibl with enthusiasm, and cheered and cheered until they were quite hoarse. Wilson looked like a happy schoolboy. Naturally, I was glad to see this reception, and it seemed that all of Paris was also, for the people were standing twenty deep in order to get a glimpse of our President. Letter^ Dec. 20th. — The King of Italy arrived to-day, but the weather Avas so bad that I did not see the procession. Fui-thermore, I am rather tired of seeing Kings and such. Letter,, Deic. 23rd. — I am coming home! I ex- pect to leave Paris Friday evening, Dec. 27. I am ordered to St. Nazaire, and counting the delay that I know will occur there, I ought to see the Statue of Liberty about the first of February next ! I re- ceived my orders on the 20th, but am held here for a few days to finish up some work that I was en- gaged in at the time. My orders read that I am re- turning to be mustered out. I went to the Opera on Saturday evening and saw "Castor and Pollux," which I cannot say that I enjoyed, because the music was too heavy and I did not understand much of it. The Opera House itself is magnificent — so much of it has been v/rit- ten by so many people that it is quite needless for me to add anvthina'. 83 Letter^ Dec. 27th. — Je pars pour rAmeriqiie ee soil' meme {\ 201i.05 1 In other words, I am ^'hitting tiie long trail" this evening at 8.05. My baggage is already at the depot, my ticket is bought, I have cheeked out with the M. P.'s, I have nn* resen'ation for the journey, have taken a bath, shaved, cleaned my teeth, and done everything else that is necessary for a long trip. Reports are conflicting as to what sort of luck I shall have in the matter of getting on board of the steamer, some saying that I will only be at the Base for a day or two, and others claiming that it will be two or three weeks before I will be able to take steamer. P^'rankly, I have no more idea, as to when I will actually sail than you have, but presume that I will have a ten days' delay at least at the seaboard. It was here that I stopped writting letters home. I arrived at St. Nazaire on Dec. 28th, after a miserable all-night ride in a smelly second-class coach. I was assigned quarters within hailing dis- tance of the barracks in which I spent my first night on French soil in September, 1917. There was nothing to do at camp but eat, sleep and play cards (if so inclined) for there was plenty of company. The condition of the camp was poor, there being plenty of mud, and the mess was nothing to brag about. On January 17th, 1919, I asked to be assigned to a casual company and was attached to the 133rd Company, scheduled to leave for the steamer at Nantes (Loire Inferieure), the following day. To Capt. H. F. Grove, Inf., of Larned, Kans., I owe my thanks for his support of my request, for it was to his company that I was assigned. We left on the 18th, took train for Nantes, and that afternoon were sent to Pont Eousseau (Loire S4 Inferieiire), near that city, as the steamer was not ready to take us. We boarded the Steamer ''Sama- rinda," on January 20th at 2 P. M., and sailed an hour afterwards. On board was our company and one other and some casual officersi, a total of 19 officers and 259 men. As Capt. Grove was the senior Army officer on board, he became Troop Com- mander, leaving' me in command of the lo3rd Com- pany. We took the extreme southern course, passing' just north of the Azores and Bermudas, and had a very pleasant, warm and comfortable voyage. The '^Samarinda" is a 9,000-top ship, and there was plenty of room for everybody, with very few or no restricted areas. We entered New York Harbor shortly after sunrise on February 3rd, 1919. I had the surprise of my life upon seeing my Father, Mother, sister and brother-in-law on top of the pilot house of the police boat "Patrol," which came alongside the ship off Quarantine. Seeing them all so well, made a pleasant finish to my serv- ice in the American Expeditionary Forces. From the foregoing, it is quite easy to judge that I was spared many of the hardships that fell to the lot of my fellow Americans in France. I realize this, and how it all hajjpened is best summed up in a letter written by an old friend from Train- ing Camp, 2nd Lieut. Raymond L. Hill, of the 107th Supply Train on January 24th, 1919, four days after I had left for home. It is written to my brother from "Across the Rhine." Lieut. Hill writes : "I had been wondering whether your brother had been ordered home, and am not surprised to hear that he has been, as he seems to play in luck all the time.'^ I TRRflRY OF CONGRESS 020 934 481 b ^