^— TT 52° ,C79 CopV l ■SB IRHWELL'S EW IMPROVED 1885 Self- Fitting- (jhartiSleeye System. FOR CUTTING LADIES', MISSES', AND CHILDREN'S FEB 27, 1005 , IS. 0NSDEDSY CENTENNIAL I COMMISSION \ OF WjlPH F TRADE MARK REGISTERED Feb. 11, 1873, RE-ISSUED May 30, 1876. PRINCIPAL OFFICE IN THE U. S., 1229 WABASH AVE., CHICAGO. ntered, according to Act of Congress, in 18S5 by Wiixktt Cornwkll, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. * (No. INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION. PHILADELPHIA, 1876. The United States Centennial Commission has examine report of the Judges, and accepted the following reasons, decreed an award in conformity therewith. Philadelphia, Dec. 21st, /. REPORT ON AWARDS. Product, Graduated Chart for Dress CutU Name and address of Exhibitor, Willett Comil No. J 53 North Eighth St., Philadelphia, The undersigned, having examined the product hereii scribed, respectfully recommends the same to the United [ Centennial Commission for Award, for the following reasons, Criminality, well fitted the piorpose intended, m eeonomieal in cost. W. O. Linthicum, Signature of the «"' APPROVAL OF GROUP JUDGES. Dietz Monnin, Modest Kittai M- P. Empey, Kanitz, B. F. Britton, Geo. Heivston, W. H. Chandler, E. N. Rorsforc A true Copy of the record. Francis A. Walker, Chief of the Bureau of A' Given by authority of the United States Centennial Commi tfKSl A - T - GOSHORN, 1 J^frffi Director- General. J. L. CAMPBELL, J. R. HAWLE\ Secretary. Prei i a Index CornwelTs Purchasing Agency on Cover. Fac-simile Report of Award Given by Centennial Commission 2 Introductory 4 To the Public 5,6,7,8, 9 CornwelPs New Sleeve System 10 To Our Agents and Their Scholars 11, 12, 13 How to Procure the Latest Improved 14, 15 Where Agents Sign Their Names 15 Our Premiums , 16 Our Regular Yearly Prize to Purchasers •. 16 Special Premiums to Purchasers 17 Send Us $8, How to Send Money, etc 17 How We Send Charts and Sleeve Systems » 17 Lady Agents Wanted Everywhere 18 To Dressmakers 19, 20 Send for Private Terms— We Will Reward, etc 20 DesignAA Cut of Plain Waist 21 Cut of Measurement 22 Directions for Using Cornwell's Improved System.. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 Cut the Front Waist First 24,25 Cut the Back Waist 26, 27 Special Sleeve Notice 27 Additional Important Directions, etc 28 "Neck Size, Back Forms, Mark the Lines, Skirts, Allow for Seams, Garibaldis and Velvet Garments 29 Open Backs, Low Necked Dresses, Yokes, Shoulder Seams 30 Back Dart, Under Arm Seam, Fit Outsides to Tight Linings, Lap in Front, Sewing on Dress Braid, Stretch Skirt of Basque, Hook and Eye Pieces, Whale Bones, Clip the Seams, To Finish Inside of Waist 31 Dolman, Cut Fig. F 32, 33 Dolmans, Directions for Cutting and Making 34, 35, 36 French, English and Common Sleeves 37 Directions for Cutting Polonaise, Basque and Wrapper 39, 40 Polonaise, Basque and Wrapper, Front and Back, Cut A and B. 41 Walking Coat, Front and Back Cut and Directions 42, 43 Ladies 1 Drawers, Cut and Directions 44, 45 i Postillion or Riding Habit Directions and Cut 46 Sack Chemise, Cut and Directions 47 I Skirt Directions and Cut 48 To Cut a True Bias, Directions and Cut 49 Directions for li sing Sleeve System 50 Photo Engraving of Our New Sleeve System 51 A Miniature Chart Before Last Great Improvement 52 A Few of the Million Letters Received. . . .53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60 * INTRODUCTORY. We invite special attention to this enlarged Instruction Book, which has been prepared exclusively for our Agents and those using our Self-fitting System of Cutting. We have made these Illustrated Instructions so plain, and our Chart and Sleeve System with holes and figures so simple, that any person with ordinary intelligence can readily become a prac- tical Dressmaker in a short time without the aid of a teacher. For any lack of competence on the part of the learner, draft out a pat- tern and send it to us for inspection. The principles of this Self-Fitting System were first thought of by Miss Elmira Harroun (now Mrs. Cornwell) at 16 years of age. Her first Chart was a rough piece of pasteboard, on which the method of fitting the shoulder and ascertaining the size of the darts were marked with pen and ink, a puzzle which no one could figure out until Mr. Cornwell, a practical business man full of inventive faculties, discerning the great value of that unburnished diamond in his wife's cherished pasteboard, undertook to make it so plain that " he who runs may read. 1 ' After six months of hard study, a wood cut was obtained, a few Charts printed. These being tested, brought out valuable improve ments. Within a year a Copper- Plate was obtained in New York the engraving of which consumed months. From this Plate, the first Charts were manufactured in 1870. In 1876 we made our first set of Improved Colored Nickel Chart Engravings. It was thie Improved System that received the Medal and Diploma at the Cen tennial Exhibition that year. Since then we have made many im portant changes, the last of which was making the Darts smallei and providing for an Underarm Dart, thus meeting the wants o: the prevailing style. About this time we invented our Kefl Sleeve System, which has satifactorily filled a great popula demand in connection with our Chart. We have received Four Patents, nearly a score of Copyrights, an< our Trade Mark— " Cut of Measurement "—extending to us 3 years' protection. Our present Improved System of Cutting is the result of 1 years' experience, during which time we have spared neither ex pense nor pains to make it a Perfect Method, for cuttin Ladies', Misses', Children's and Infants' Garments of ever description. We have sold over a quarter of a million Systems without hearin the first complaint. Our Agents number over 20,000, who are sel' ing more for us to-day than is sold of all the worthless thing claiming similar merit in the country combined. We gain the confidence of our Agents and Canvassers b protecting them in their work, never sending into their territor our private terms, or allowing other Agents to interfere. We want the name, P. O. address and occupation i every Chart purchaser on our Premium JList. Lro- luced a rule both simple and complete, by which all the garments required by the army are made. By it, each separate part, as the collar, side-body, back, sleeves, etc., ^re cut in different sizes and classified, the whole, when Drought together, harmonizing perfectly, and so all sizes u*e readily fitted, and the tedious process of trying on ivoided. Hitherto no general rule has been put forward )y which female apparel can be thus accurately and expeditiously cut and made up from measurement alone. I This need, so obvious and pressing, we claim our Self- Fitting Chart will satisfy, and so convinced are we of ts entire adaptability to the wants of ladies making their wn dresses that we court for it the severest tests in the r nost intricate cases, feeling sure that the longer it is experi- .( nented with, the more fully will the user be convinced of J ts usefulness and its superiority over all other plans. We refer again to our method of obtaining the waist neasure. If there was no taper to the waist there would ne no darts or biases required in the dress; or in other © &- --= 8 CORNWELL'S IMPROVED words, if the bust measure was no greater than the wais measure, there would be no taper, therefore no darts. Th difference between the waist and the bust measure, that if the taper of the waist, determines the size of the darts. For illustration. — If a given bust measures 38 inche and the waist 24 inches, the difference, which is 14 inches will be the exact amount which must be taken up in th darts. Now, with the same bust measure and a waist tw inches larger, of course the taper is two inches less, requirin 2 inches less for darts ; this, then, is the rule ; the less th difference between the size of the waist and the size of the bus the less the taper, and consequently the narrower the darts, an the greater the difference the greater the taper, therefore th wider the darts, and thus an unvarying mathematical princip. is established in following which a misfit becomes impossibL ^ Hitherto, from the time of the invention of the first char (Fowler's Theorem, erroneously called Fowler & Wells' some 40 years ago, no true and universal rule has bee advanced, by which to fit the taper of the waist accuratel; most all having adopted the rule — " the larger the waist, tl larger the darts," without regard to the size of the bust c the taper of the waist. In other models there is little or r variation in the width of darts, they being usually about 1 inches wide — the same for great as well as small tapers. Our theory of fitting the waist is exactly the opposite thfe, we claiming the bust to be the only part the darts a] supposed to provide for and fit ; and to attest its superiorii in all points we refer to the unanimous verdict of mo: than a hundred thousand who daily use and advocate i having abandoned all false theories. Another erroneous principle in all other methods is th of cutting off the cloth at the side seams, and putting narrower darts, thus creating a continual drawing down aero the bust from the back of the neck, without any appare cause, thereby destroying the symmetry, and making t? dress set uncomfortable to the wearer. Our system obviw i\ all this, by gathering up the whole taper of the waist in dar and placing them directly under the projection in front. These invaluable rules are as much a requisite for good experienced dress-maker to make up an elegantl fitting dress, as a 24-inch square is to the mechanic in la ing out his work, no matter how much practice she m: have had in the old art of cut-and-try-on. A carpent would be at a loss to build a flight of stairs or do any oth m ! — ; SELF-FITTINQ CHART. 9 exact piece of work, without a rule or square, the main working tool of his profession. This rule applies to the practical mantua-maker, no less than to the unskilled housewife. This Self-Fitting Chart can also be used in cutting tight-fitting cloaks, basques and sacques, while the whole [lpper portion can be made available in cutting coats, its [•ules forming an infallible guide in cutting any garment requiring a nice waist or shoulder fit. I This Self-Fitting Chart is composed of only two Pieces, and in them is embodied more than in any and all jther charts, models or systems combined, providing as it loes for 26 waist sizes, 26 bust sizes, 26 neck sizes, 9 ihoulder measures, 15 dart sizes or taper measurements, ind an 18 inch gauge for cutting Trimmings, and a rule or drawing a complete back form, together with a scale of izes sufficiently ample to embrace every variety of form, dther of children or adults. It is the only system in the world that will produce a perfect-fitting dress from mea- iurement. It will transform an ordinary apprentice girl tito a first-class dressmaker in a few hours. Furthermore, he proprietor agrees to forfeit $5,000 wherever this Self- fitting Chart fails to fulfil all that is claimed for it. This Self-fitting System is never sold in paper heets, but are always made of the best material possible, irhich will last a dress-maker for years, all tastefully finish- d and ready for use. They are beautiful in color and de- ign, an ornament to any drawing room and a twin sister o a sewing machine. Principal American Office, 11229 WABASH AVE. 23et-weezi IStla. a,n.cl 13tla. Sts. CHICAGO, ILL. ■* )J4« . - 10 CORNWBLL'S Improy'fl Self-Fitting System for Cutting Sleeves This new System will cut sleeves of all sizes, for both children and adults, and works perfectly in connection with the Cornwell Self-fitting Chart in dress cutting. This new Sleeve System, we are bold to say, is no guess-work method for Cutting Sleeves, but a perfect suc- cess in all its workings. It is an invention of much study and experience, ^and is the first and only one in existence deserving the name of Sleeve System, and we are proud that it is receiving the unbounded success it so richly deserves. It is beautiful in design, simple in construction, and worth more than ten times its cost to the happy possessor. Any lady can use it; needs no in- struction, and cuts all sizes perfectly without re- fitting. We know from years of experience that this great want so long felt is now fully met by this never-failing sleeve system. It is but the work of a moment to cut to a certainty by this method, without waste of material, a pair of sleeves of any size, to fit per- fectly without refitting. We claim that enough material can be saved by this new system in cutting a few sleeves, to more than pay its first cost. It is undeniable' that great trouble is always experienced by the old way in getting a perfect sleeve, and nothing renders the dress so uncomfortable as a bad-shaped sleeve. JSvery lady should remember that with a C©rn« well Self-fitting Chart and our System ir band she has unfailing control of all modern science ir dress-cutting. You should lose no time in making the necessary purchase from your home agent, but shoule there be no agent near, you can then apply ai once to our office at Chicago, where full particular: regarding prices and agencies will be given. As active lady agent wanted in every 1©' cality. See our premium list and special offer to pur chasers, a chart given free, etc., on other pages. W( want the name and address of every chart ^ purchaser Send to us for private terms where there is no activ p agent at work. \tf. 15.— ?*ee ©ur Purchasing Agency or first page, our Premiums, and a few of the man] tens of thousands letters we have received of like imp port in back of book. Write us. Hk-~ — — — ' ' CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 11 TO OUR AGENTS AND THEIR SCHOLARS. To insure perfect success in the use of the Cornwell Sys- tem of Dress-cutting it is absolutely necessary that you acquire a practical knowledge of its easy workings from the Agent or Canvasser at the time of the purchase. Bear in mind the agent is the only one fully qualified to give you personal instruction and to demonstrate to your perfect satisfac- tion the great merits of this Self-fitting Sys- tem of Dress-cutting. There is nothing difficult about this that the agent cannot readily impart to the newest beginner; all that is required is hat earnest attention be given to the figures, pencil lines ind personal instruction of the teacher to make you a good ind competent dressmaker in a few hours. This Self-fitting System of Dress-cutting fully meets he wants of ladies who desire the Science of Dressmaking without the much dreaded apprenticeship. Ladies with Sewing Machines find this System invaluable. Df the 100,000 in private families, not one would be parted yith for ten times its cost. Examine it, test it and you Mil prize it above your sewing machine, J No lady should miss this golden opportunity to obtain from the agent the only First Premium System f Dress-cutting in the world. The agent will surprise you with its wonderful work- ings. Do not fail while the agent is here to make your urchase, and to get for yourself our five measurements -the Shoulder, Bust, Waist and Taper measures, and hereby see the wonderful improvements in the new rt of dressmaking. It Is worth more than $100.00 to ou. 9 '* ►*■ 12 SELlT_iria?TING^ CHART. Purchasers need have no fears but whatever is claime< for this simple and perfect System of dress-cutting the can easily and quickly comprehend. More than half million have been instructed in the use of this Self-fittinj System successfully. On account of its great merit it ha become the only reliable system of dress-cutting throughou the civilized world. This fact was fully demonstrated at the great Centennu Exhibition, when Cornwell's Improved Self-fitting Sys tem attracted great attention in competition with all th charts and systems of the world, and won the unqualifie admiration of the most experienced and practical judge; who witnessed its marvelous workings. For its great supei iority it secured over all competitors the highest possibl award that could be given by the Commissioners. The d< cision of this august body of the world's judges is unhes tatingly ratified by more than a quarter of a millio of happy possessors of this system of dress-cutting. Purchasers will please take notice that after this seaso the retail price of the Cornwell Self-fitting Systei will be advanced Parties who receive this book from the agent to read an do not wish to purchase will confer a favor by handing it t some one who may. In order to arouse the interest of the person to whomyc would sell, and gain a patient hearing, it is suggested th* you cut and baste a lining for the party on the spot. You will many times be repulsed in attempting to gai ] a hearing from superstitious dressmakers; they havnV long ago adopted some one of the many superannuate systems now no longer Entitled to shelf room. A dee; rooted though unreasonable prejudice will often meet yc with the remark, "I find no trouble in fitting; I nev have a misfit," etc., and then you are triumphantly refer ed to their success in the old-fashioned method of fittirj to the form, or to some favorite model which in their oph ion is perfect. These statements you can and should t prepared to meet, respectfully of course, pointing out t them that all other charts are limited to a single rui for fitting that most difficult part of the form, tti Shoulder. Now, differing as the shoulder does in almoij every person, in one being square, another round, amothur principal office in Chicago, at once setting forth the act that no agent is engaged in such neighborhood, and eceive all desired information by return mail . We de- ire the names and addresses of all our agents and Chart mrchasers, and their occupation, whether milliner, Iressmaker, teacher, farmer's wife or daughter on our ecord-book, that we may protect all concerned in their espective rights, and be enabled to fairly award the )rizes described elsewhere. This request is absolutely lecessary, and should be strictly complied with. It is 'urther expected that dressmakers having apprentices viH supply them liberally with our System of Cutting, * i« OUR PREMIUMS. As a further inducement to our agents to use thei best efforts to extend the demand for our System of Cu j ting, and as a guarantee of our appreciation of their ei terprise in our behalf, we offer the following prizes to b ! contested for : First Prize:— One "NEW HOME" sewing mi chine with drop leaf, cover, drawers, and all the lates attachments, the handsomest and best sewing machiD in the market. The regular price of this machine is $5. This Valuable PRIZE will be presented to the ager disposing of the greatest number of Systems during th year, and awarded on the following New Year's day. First Prize awarded Jan. 1st, 1885, to Mrs. A. ]V Clement, Fennels, Canada. Second Prize: — Two dozen Charts and Sleev Systems will be awarded on the same day to the ager disposing of the next largest number during the year. Awarded Jan. 1st, 1885, to Lizzie Rieth, Port Washing ton, Wis., Mrs. M. J. Gardner, Rochester, N. Y. Tliircl Prize : — One dozen Charts and Sleeve Sy: terns will be awarded in like manner to the agent dii posing of the third largest number during the year. Awarded Jan. 1st, 1885, to Mrs. E. M. Brewer, 895 N agara St., Buffalo ; Cornelia Peavy, Sykes Mills, Ala. OUR REGULAR YEARLY PRIZE TO PURCHASERS. The name of every purchaser of a Cornwell Chart du: ing the year should be sent to us to be recorded in our lis of patrons, who will participate in the grand drawing t be held on New Year's day of each year. The draw in will be for a NEW HOME sewing machine, same a the above. This is a chance for you to get a fine sewin machine free of charge, and every purchaser should tak advantage of this offer and send in her name to be er tered on our prize list. All the prizes will be publishe as soon as awarded. This prize was awarded, by impartial ballot, Jan. Is 1885, to Mrs. A. J. Diamond, Whitesboro, Tex. This is to certify that I have this day shipped Tw First Class Sixty-Five Dollar Hartford Sewing Machine (with every attachment complete)— one to Mrs. A. M Clement of Fennels, Canada, the other to Mrs. A. j Diamond, Whitesboro, Texas, said ladies having bee: awarded such prizes for last year. Wm. M. Durell, (Signed.) Agt. Hartford Sewing Machine Co., Michigan Ave. and Jackson Sts., Chicago. Dated Jan, 2d, 1885. < _ L ^ . # SPECIAL PREMIUMS '" TO BE GIVEN TO EVERY LADY Who will send us, within the year, orders for a certain number of our Improved Self-fitting Charts with Sleeve Systems as follows : $IOO IN GOLD For 600 Charts with Sleeve Systems. X Ladies' Fine Gold Watch, - - Value $50, For 150 Charts -with Sleeve Systems. \ First-Class Sewing Machine, - Value $35, For 100 Charts -with Sleeve Systems. I*he Material For a Silk Dress, - Value $25, For 75 Charts with Sleeve Systems. * Fine Cold Necklace and Locket, Value $15, For 50 Charts with Sleeve Systems. rhe Material for a Cashmere Dress, Value $ 1 0, For 25 Charts with Sleeve Systems. Any lady entitled to either of these premiums can nave the value of the premium exchanged for Charts or Sleeve Systems at our regular rates if preferred. 1 It is not absolutely necessary that, orders entitling the mrchaser to a premium should be sent us at one time, jut may be ordered from time to time within the year. iiVhen orders calling for either of the premiums are re- vived by us it will be sent by request immediately. Any lady sending us $8.00 or more will receive the r alue in Charts and Sleeve Systems at our Wholesale Mces, free by mail, providing there is no active agent n her locality. We send our Private Terms to those desiring agencies ^here none exists, showing how to make more money ban by any other way possible. Write us at once. Local agents and lady canvassers wanted everywhere. ; Charts and Sleeve Systems sent by mail on receipt of >rice, with books, circulars and show card, and warrant hem to arrive safe. Charts and Sleeve Systems may be sent by xpress collect on delivery, at your expense, if so ordered. ! Send money by P. O. order, check or registered let- ■' esr. Five dollars or less may be sent in our return en- elope at our risk. Will receive P. O. stamps for change. On receipt of postage we will send Chart and Instruc- on Books free, and to insure you a large package of rinted matter send us twenty cents to pay postage, if ou feel able. Write us. Address WILLETT CORNWELL, 1*«9 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO. — -- - ■ . ^ , — .-u,.„4l < i Lady Agents Wanted (0 3 t < i EVERYWHERE, FOE COKNWELL'S SYSTEM OF DftESS-CUTTIMB. One G^art* pleeve pysterp Ed § U > I GIVEN FREE! Any lady who will use her influence to in- duce some active lady to send us an order for ft! "Qt less th ~FOUR CHARTS and FOUR Q 'SLEEVE SYSTEMS, will receive, FREE OF CHARGE, for her trouble, ONE CHART AND SLEEVE SYSTEM, as soon as we re- ceive such order; besides, both parties will tC be classed in the drawing: of the SEWING ^ — « — . « ,-S— . , I MACHINE first of the year. O © BE PARTICULAR TO NOTICE, The very © important change we have just made in our (13 chart. By reducing the darts, and making JS provisions for an underarm dart, we fully meet ** the wants of the present style of fitting. 2 Address, £ WILLETT GOUNWELL, 1229 Wabash Ave,, CHICAGO. f . © CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 19 TO DRESSMAKERS. HUMBLE, patient dressmaker, please peruse this pamphlet fairly and impartially, and resolve not to frown upon or disparage the efforts of the advocate or agent who offers to shed new light upon your pathway by simplifying your labors and ameliorating your per- plexities, but give your thoughtful attention to the newly- discovered merits embodied in this Improved Self- fitting Chart, and avoid the repetition of that old story so often told to agents — " I have no trouble in fitting ; my pattern or model gives perfect satisfaction ; I am satisfied," etc., remembering, dear Madam, that all improvement is entitled to, and must sooner or later obtain recognition. Tour pinning on cut-and-try-system is fast becoming unpopular and superannuated. You are now working in the same old way in which your great grandmother fitted dresses, simply because hitherto you have found no improvement worthy the name, or any other method which would stand the test of practical use. There has certainly been but little progress in this art for the last eighteen centuries. Dressmakers fit on now precisely AS THEY DID HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO. Therefore for your own benefit embrace the first opportunity of examin- ing this new system and remember the old precept, " Prove all things ; hold fast to that which is good." By using this Self-fitting Chart, no dress-making business need be circumscribed. The exact measurements can at once be taken of all customers, no matter how numer- ous. Coming as they usually do, in the middle or busier part of the day, while the earlier and later hours may be employed in cutting the garments from the measurements previously taken, obtaining as perfect a fit as though the customer herself were present. " This is all easily said," you remark, with a smile of incredulity, but when you have become acquainted with the principles of this Self-fitting Chart, their accuracy and simplicity, you will cheerfully certify, with hundreds of thousands of others, to their practicability and the great saving of time and labor effected by its use. Who does not remember, upon its first introduction, the hue and cry about the Sewing Machine, that poor woman would have nothing to do ; that the sewing woman's occu- pation was gone ; that the bread was taken from the mouths of suffering, struggling, working females to add to the accumulations of the already rich and independent manu- , )g m 20 SELF-FITTING CHART. facturers ? Time has proven the groundlessness of this fear, and now, thousands of womeii look upon this machine as the main stay of their existence, their sure support and provider. The Cromwell Self-fitting Chart fulfills the same beneficent mission, and now these two great inven- tions must be regarded as the wings which will waft the sewing woman from the gloom and despondency of an over-wrought and under-paid laborer to the dignity and independence always the due of patient, persistent industry. Therefore, dear dressmaker, for humanity's sake as well as for your own, advocate the utility of this Self- fitting Chart. Sanction it by daily using it, and do not hesitate to certify to its great worth and the material aid you derive from its use. Eidicule cannot harm nor prejudice arrest the onward march of any genuine improvement. Accept, then, this latest benefaction, and so obtain additional credit for your work, better customers and a wider popularity. The shrewdest guessing, so much of which accompanies all other patterns, cannot compete with that mathematical certainty which is the basis of all our rules and measurements. ©■ Cornwell's Tmproyed Directions for Cutting. "8S £ne has been taken)— see 2— then draw line along edge ? rom intersecting point to left edge. Keep chart in place. 2(Hh. Bottom of Darts.— With chart kept in jame position, dot through hole L, also through three loles in scale M, directly under your taper number- See L, M, N, O. For Taper Number, read "5th direction. 21st. Top of Shoulder —Place at the upper leek dot on lining that point at the edge of chart in Scale 1ST, which has your shoulder measure, having upper edge )f chart at upper dot of arm-hole and line along edge. 3ee 3 to 4. 22d. The Darts How to Mark Out.— Place point J Back Chart at upper left dot on lining with Dart Scale edge at lower left dot and line along Scale edge. See 9 to L. Turn-Over Chart, keeping point J at same dot with Scale Edge at the next 3ot to right and line down. See 9 to M. To Com- plete the Back Dart use the three remaining dots m lining. See 10 N. O. by the same method as before. 23d. To Prepare the Waist Line for an U nder Arm Dart place point J of Back Chart wrong side up at the crossing of the back line of back dart and the >j4 26 CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting. [Directions Continued] waist line, with Dart Scale edge at the intersecting point of side seam and draw curved line. See to 13. ft. B, An Under- Arm Bart about one-and-three-fourth inches wide is required in all close-fitting garments. The chart is so arranged that an Under^Arm dart of this width is thus made necessary. 24th. To ©raft Under Arm Dart.— Begin at the left lower dot in arm-hole (see 7) and line a straight edged Dart to curved waist line, and about \% inches wide at waist line— see 14, 15— and half way be- tween Back Dart and side seam. See to 13. 25th. To Shorten the Shonlder and {Shape the Arm-Hole.— Place point E of the sleeve system on the shoulder seam at the required length for shoulder of dress, with upper end of sleeve at the left lower dot of Arm-hole, and draw line along edge. See 7 to 16. How to get this measurement see 7th direction. TO CUT THE BACK WAIST. 26th. Use the remainder of the lining still pinned together. Place the Back Chart high up on the lining with Scale Edge along the Folded Edge of lining. 27 th. Back of Week —Dot through both holes in "Neck Scale 0." See 17, 18. 28th. Arm-Mole.— Dot holes at your bust measure in Scales P, Q, R. See 19, 20, 21. 29th, Waist Measure, Scale S.— Dot the holes directly above and below your waist measure in this scale. See S., S. 30th. Remove Back Chart.— Draw a line on lining for back of neck. See 17, 18. Draw a curvec line on lining for arm-hole. See 19, 20, 21. Drav straight line on lining between two dots. See S. to S. Ex tending line above and below for extreme sizes. 31st. Length of Waist and Side Seam —Place point J at the lowest dot in arm-hole, with scal< edge to intersect the straight line (see S. to S.) at the fig ure indicating length of your waist, and line along seal* edge. See 21 to 22. 32 d. To Prove the Length of Bach Waist. — Measure down from back of neck on lining and make dot for waist line the length of back required See 17 to 23. Read 6th direction. Corn well's Improved Directions for Cutting. 27 [Directions Continued.] 33d. Bottom of Waist.— Draw straight line with edge of Back Chart square to the left from point of intersection at 22 to folded edge of lining, striking the measurement made down the center of back, if one has been taken. See 22, 23. 34th. Shoulder Seam.— Place point T of Back Chart at neck dot, with shoulder edge at upper dot of armhole on lining and line. See 18, 19. 35th. For Seam in the Back.— One-quar- ter of an inch wide at the top and three-fourths of an inch wide at the waist line. Draw line along straight edge of Chart. See 17 to 23. 36t£i. For Back Form.— Turn over Back Chart and place hole U at middle dot in arm-hole, with Back Form edge at the waist line, the required width to make side body to suit the style, and draw line. See 20 to 24. To make a straighter curve move chart up higher. 37th. To Shorten the Shonlder and Shape Back ©1 Arm- Mole.— Place point E of the Sleeve System at a point on the shoulder seam, See 25, to correspond with^the front shoulder seam, with upper part of sleeve at lowest dot in arm- hole and line along edge. See 21 to 25. N. B— The back shoulder should be one-half inch tne longest. In sewing together the shoulder seams STRETCH the front in the hollow to match the back. SPECIAL SLEEVE NOTICE. 38th. For Cntting a Perfect Fitting Sleeve. — See full and complete directions on the Sleeve System itself, and for design see black lines of both upper and under sleeve. 39 th. For a Tight-Fitting French Sleeve. — See long dotted lines on design. First mark out on lining with Sleeve System in the usual way the size of sleeve required. Then make first dot at bend of arm " out 3^ inc i on the lining from edge. Place point A of System at 2 with inner edge at one and line 2 to 1 ; then swing System down enough to line 1 to 3. Turn over System and place point A at 4 with inner edge at point of elbow, and line 4 to 5. For under part of sleeve use the same method as before, and make sleeve smaller at the wrist to suit taste. For Sleeve gathered high at top add about one inch. See round dotted line over 6. _ £4 %* — 1 28 Cornwell's Improved Directions for Cutting. HOW TO USE THE CHART. THE SLEEVE S YSTEM.-T© Measure - Cut the Cloth, and Make the Garment, Etc., Other than by the following Directions, you will see "Directions for Using." Aside from these directions the learner will be referred to the printed di- rections on the Chart and Sleeve System themselves. It EAR IN MIKD that Correct Measure- ments of the person to be fitted are as necessary in the use of this Chart and Sleeve .System as to a tailor in cutting a coat, therefore be careful and put down on paper the measurements taken. BUST MEASURE.-In taking this you will stand behind the person and bring the tape around over the largest portion of the bust, and across the shoulder blades, at the back. (See cut of measurements.) Avoid drawing the tape too tight. When the bust measure comes between two sizes, take the largest one. Never measure over a loose dress. Should you find, in making up the dress, that the bust is either too large or too small, it is evidence that this measurement was wrongly taken. SHOULDER ME4LSURE.-Stand ai side ot* person, and if there seems to be any differ ence in the shoulders, measure both of them. (See cul of measurements) This hollow is located just above the upper edge of the clavical bone, where it joins the shoulder blade and collar bone. Its location is regular and its distance from the side of the neck correspond: exactly to the slope of the shoulder, and varies in lengtl in different forms from \% to 5% inches. The genera size of the person governs little, if any, the distance thi hollow is from the neck. With high and square shou 1 ders this clavical bone or cap of the shoulder lies highe and flatter on top, and nearer the neck, making a shorte measurement. With sloping shoulders this bone turn over more, making, of course, a longer measuremen THE TAPER MEASUREMENTS, o Darts, are obtained by subtraction. For illustration— If a given Bust measures 38 inche and the waist 34 inches, the difference, 14 inches, wi be the exact amount which must be taken up in the dart * ^ ^ CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting*. 29 [Directions Continued] KECK. SIZE. — The trimming down necessary to conform to this measure should always be done in front. Should you find, on trying on the dress, any wrinkles about the side or front of the neck, make up your mind that you have failed to trim out enough cloth in front. BACK FORMS-In trimming the cloth to conform to the back waist lining, after being basted together, allow three-fourths of an inch more of the out- side at the side seams, half way up the arm-hole, and at the bottom of the waist. This will provide for the welt in the forms on the back. Baste through the cloth and lining on the line marked out for the back forms, then fold up enough of the outside to form the welt, and baste through both the second time, after which stitch through the whole with a sewing machine. Jtt ARK. THE LINES of the garment through both thicknesses of cloth with a marking wheel, or crease them between the thumb and finger. N. B.— In cutting the cloth allow 1% inches for turning under in front. Allow three-fourths of an inch for all seams except in the neck and arm-hole. Sew up the seams on the lines. In sewing up the shoulder seams stretch the front cloth in the hollow to match the back. Turn the shoul- der and side seams forward and the darts back. SK.IJRTS. — In seaming up a skirt, a 1 fray 8 match a biased and a straight edge together. G A RIB 4 L IMS.- For cutting this gar- ment, add two sizes to the bust measure in "Row F'' in the front Chart and U R" in the back Chart. Gather into the front waist what would otherwise be used in darts, adding to the bottom of the back one- third more cloth than for a tight waist, the extra width to be used for gathering in. This rule of adding two sizes to the bust measure in "Rows F and R" holds good in cutting loose waists, sacks, coats, night-dresses and wrappers. IN CUTTING VELVET GARMENTS, unlike other goods, the nap must run up. Velvet and other Wadded Cloaks require an addition of two sizes to the ordinary bust measure in "Row F," on the front Chart, and five sizes in "Row R," on the back Chart. Keep all other measures without change. Make the desired curve in arm-hole. i 30 Cora well's Improved Direct ions fi>r Cutting. OPES BACKS.— To cut the front, let the long straight edge of the front chart project one-half inch over the left selvedge of the cloth, then proceed in the usual way. To cut the back, place the straight edge of the back chart on the cloth, one inch back from the selvedge, drawing a line there on the cloth (this is for turning under), then move another inch further from the edge, drawing another line (this is for lapping), after which proceed in the usual way. LOW-IECEEO BRESSES.-First draft out on paper a plain waist from which the pat- terns may be cut. Place hole "U" of back Chart on the front shoulder-seam at *'l," two inches up from the point of the shoulder, and mark along the edge to "3," a point live and one-half inches below the neck. Then place hole "U" on the back shoulder-seam at 3, two inches up from the point of shoulder, and mark along the edge to 4, eight inches below the neck. YOKES.— As the following are loose fitting, al- lowance must be made (see "Garibaldis") in cutting the pattern for a chemise or a night-dress yoke. For the upper line of these yokes use the line of the "Low-neck Dress," as directed above. To get the lower line, invert the back Chart and place hole "U" at the fourth dot in the front arm hole at 5, and mark along the edge to 6, a point nine inches down from the neck. Then place hole "IT" at middle dot in back arm hole at ■?, and mark along edge to & s a point 1& inches below neck. The figures in above directions refer to following cut. *■ Shoulder Renins,- Special care should be taken that the front waist, which must be three-eighths of an inch shorter at the shoulder seam than the back, be . 80 SELF-FITTING CHART. 31 stretched, in the hollow sufficiently to match the back. N. B. — The sewing should always be exactly on the lines. BACK DART.— Be particular to stretch the back line of the back dart when sewing it together. UNDER ARM SEAM.— Be particular to draft the Front cloth one quarter of an inch shorter than the back, and in sewing together this seam stretch the front to match the back. FIT OUTSIDE WAISTS TO TIGHT LININGS — Sew up the darts in the lining. Begin to baste the outside cloth on at the neck, and continue along the shoulder arm- hole and side seam. Then gather in the fullness of the bottom between the back dart and the front edge. Take pains to shorten the cloth one inch in front, running back and out as far as gathered. Baste together both edges even at the bottom. In hasting on the outside to the hack, begin at the neck and continue along the shoulder and down the side seam. Gather in the fullness of the bottom, (which, like the bottom of a Garibaldi, is one- third wider than a plain waist,) except 1J inches at each edge. Baste together both edges even at the bottom. LAP IN FRONT.— The lap clown the front of the waist on the buttonhole side must be turned under. The other side must have a plait quarter of an inch wide turned toward the front, and one and one-half inches back from the edge. This is a stay to sew the buttons on. SEWING ON DRESS BRAID.— First shrink the braid, then hold it loosely when sewing it on. STRETCH SKIRT OF BASQUE.— That portion which passes over the hip should be stretched to conform to the swell of the hip. HOOK AND EYE PIECES.-Should be made about three inches long, sewing them in with the front dart, one inch above the bottom of the waist. WHALEBONES.— Should be one inch shorter at the top than the darts. CLIP THE SEAMS.— In tight-fitting Basques and Corsage Waists, clip the seams at the bottom of the waist to allow the skirt to spring out over the hips and prevent drawing. TO FINISH THE INSIDE OF THE WAIST.— Ar- tistically turn the side and shoulder seams forward and the darts back, trim even the raw edges of all the seams, then turn them in and stitch them through with a sewing machine. * *■ 32 Cornwell's Improved System of 34: Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. To Cut a Dolman Paper Pattern. REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN F. Take the measurements of the person and set ther down on paper as follows : 1st. Bust measure. 3d. Shoulder measure. 3d. A measurement from a point on shoulder sear about one inch from sleeve down in front to bend in an with hand held in position just below waistline in fron 4th. A measurement from neck band at throat dow to wrist with hand held in position just below waist line. 5th. A measurement from the bend in arm held i position, toward the wrist the length of sleeve required. 6th. A measurement from the back of neck down t waist line, thence down full length of dolman requiret 7th. A measurement from the center of back at wai; line, the width across back piece required; usually aboi four inches. 8th. A measurement from the center of Dust in froi straight around over fullest part of arm to center of bac with arm in position in front. This measurement dete ■' mines the size of sleeve. 9th. A measurement around the body over fulle part of hips, to which add four inches for fullness. lOth. For the width of bottom of dolman add fou teen inches more to hip measure. N. B. Use one-ha this measurement for pattern. Prepare to Draft the Pattern. Take two sheets of heavy paper, say 24 by 86 inches paste them together, making large sheet 36 by 48 squari Place the front chart on left edge of shortest side < * paper and about six inches down from corner, hold cha in position, then place back chart wrong side up partial over it with straight edge along upper edge of paper right angles with front chart. Now move them into p sition so that with a pencil you can mark through bot charts together and at same bust measure in scale P ; back chart and scale "B" in front chart. Be careful ' keep the straight edges of chart at edges of paper ; wit charts held in position, dot out and draft necks in bo1 front and back in usual way, keeping back chart wror side up ; remove chart. *_ Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 35 [Dolman Continued.'] As you proceed to draft make dots and letters i pattern to correspond to design F, dot "A" being first ot made in pattern. Make dots "B" and "C" about one inch up the shoulder nes from dot A. To Draft the 3rd. Measurement— Meas- re down from B to D length required, placing dot D ime distance from left edge of paper as dot B. Place back chart (wrong side up) with hole U at dot B, ad line along curved edge to dot D. To Draft the 4th. Measurement— Make 3t E at throat, then measure down edge of paper to dot , length required. To Draft the 5th. Measurement— Place Die U back chart at dot D with rounding edge at dot F ten line from D to G , length of sleeve required. From \)t G you can make different styles desired. To Draft the 6 th. Measurement— Use the >ng scale edge of back chart to line by and to meas- re length required from edge of paper at back of neck iar H down to dot I, which dot must be one inch in om edge of paper ; from this dot continue a straight ae down sloping out to edge of paper at J the length : dolman required. To Draft the 7th. Measurement— Make )t K at waist line square out on paper from I width of ^ck piece required, make dot L square out on paper om dot J, making bottom about double the width as om I to K. To Complete Drafting of Back Piece- lace hole U back chart at dot C, with rounding edge at )t K and line along edge C to K, then continue down raight line to bottom at L. To Draft the 8th. Measurement— With pe line measure (at locations indicated on cut) the width the back piece from one to two together with the idth of the front piece three to four, adding together ese measures, and continue on the full length required locate dot 5. N. B. Dot 5 should appear at the same lgle and distance from dot A as 4, which position must s half way between B and D. To Draft the Sleeve — Place back chart hole U dot C with curved edge at clot 5, then line from dot C )wn full length of chart. Place straight edge of back IfJ ' 36 Cornwell's Improyed System of Cutting. Dolman Continued. chart two inches up on line last drawn, and continin straight line down along edge of chart length of sleev< required. To Locate and Draft the 9th. Meas arement — With a tape line measure the width of th< back piece I to K, with this addition continue the meas urenient square out on the paper from dot F and mak« dot M at the width required. Place back chart (wronj side up) with hole U at dot D with rounding edge at do M and line D to M. To Draft the 10th.Mea8nrement— With tap< line measure width of back piece, L to J, with this addi tion continue the measurement of bottom of front O to I 1 the width required. Now make dot N the same distance from dot M, as K is from L, draw a straight line fron M to N, thence out to O, the shape of bottom required. Line Q represents the under part of sleeve. To form the different styles of sleeves as shown d; lines in cut, use the straight and curved edges of chart t< draft by. To Draft Capes and Circulars— Measun the person from the back of neck down, length required, then proceed the same as for dolman to the completion o shoulder seams. Make dot P at the neck in the pattern Hold one end of tape line with left hand on dot P, wit] right hold pencil on measure at the length of garmen required, and swing line round from back to front fo the bottom of circle. SLEEVE.— The ordinary coat sleeve for a dres should be about one and one-half inches larger i the top than the arm-hole, thus providing for a sligb fullness over the shoulders. The upper portion of th sleeve should be about two inches wider at the arm-hol than the under poriion, gradually sloping to one inc wider at the wrist. Before putting in a sleeve with higj shoulder gather the top of it with a fine stitch. In cutting by our Sleeve System cut the cloth out 01 the Hues, making no allowance for seams. In basting the sleeves always commence at the top. The sleev should be s ) put in the arm-hole that the outside sean will come directly over the point of the elbow when benl For a French, English or common sleeve see design. * A Few of the Iff any Patterns Cut by 37 Cornwell's Improved Sleeve System. For Full Directions see Sleeve System. First mark out with Sleeve System, usual way, the size required. See black lines for Common Sleeve. To change this to a tight fitting English Meeve, simply make under part smaller at wrist to suit taste. See star- dotted line 7 to 4. To make a tight French sleeve make dot one at bend of arm about % inch on cloth from inner edge ; place point A of Sleeve System at 2, with inner edge at one, and line 2 to 1; with left hand hold System down at one, and swing round and line 1 to 3. Turn over System and place point A at 4, with inner edge at point of elbow and line 4 to 5 . For under part of sleeve make use of same method as before. The long dot- ted lines represent French Sleeve. For sleeves with high shoulders make higher in proportion to the shortness of dress shoulder. For shape see dotted lines above 6, and where to gather, see to 0. Hb ■* 38 yvCornwell's Improved System of Cutting POLONAISE BASQUE & WRAPPER CornwelPs Improved System of Cutting*. 39 | , ^ IDZESIGKESTS A. .AJSTO IB Represent FRONT and BACK of either BASQUE, POLONAISE, OR WRAPPER. For these Garments take the Bust Meas- ure, Shoulder, Waist, length of Waist, and length of Skirt, and other necessary measures in the usual way. TO CUT THE FRONT. REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN A. Draft Neck, Shoulder, Arm-hole, Under Arm Dart, Top of Darts, and Length of Waist in the usual way. See main directions for plain waist. Continue the lap line down in front the length of garment required. To Prepare the Waist Line for the under arm dart, place point J back chart wrong side up at 2 and line along scale edge to 3. To Draft Under Arm Dart begin at dot 4 three-fourths inch to left of lower dot in arm hole and line a straight edged dart to curved waist line and about one and three-fourths inches wide at 5 and 6 half way between 2 and 3. Continue this dart straight down six or eight inches to point 7. To Continue Down Side Seam of Skirt place straight scale edge of chart two inches up on side seam above 3 and make dot at G at edge of scale, remove chart and make dot 8 one-half inch to right of last dot made and line straight 3 to 8. To continue skirt down from 8, place hole U back chart at 6 with round- ing edge at 8 and line from 8 to point J, remove chart and continue line with same outward slope, shape and length of skirt required. If full draping is required continue down straight line from 8. To Continue Two Front Darts— Make dots 9 and 10 from thirteen to fifteen inches directly below center of each dart and to these dots run the darts. -V 4:0 Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. [Basque, Polonaise or Wrapper Continued. \ N. B. — It can be readily seen that our way of locating the side seam is so proportioned that it comes down over back of the hip, thereby producing an elegant fit and narrow back so much admired. Wiien One Wart is Required in place of two in front, make dot in center of each dart at waist line and dots between two top and two bottom points and line out one dart by these four dots, in which event the under arm dart must be located half-way between front dart and side seam. A Basque Skirt is represented by dotted lines in both front and back designs. A Princess Dress is represented in design B by cross dotted lines. TO CUT THE BACK. REFERENCE TO DESIGN B. To Allow for Plaits place back chart square on cloth or paper four or six inches, on from left edge and draft neck, bust, shoulder, length of waist and side body in usual way. Draw line twelve from arm hole the length of chart exactly parellel with left edge of ma- terial. To Get Flare of Hip measure and line 13 to 14 same as length of waist, then dot 16 half way between 14 and 15, draw line from 16 up to junction of lines at 17. The Plaits may be higher or lower by moving lines a a to suit style. To Draft Side-body line square out to right from left edge through center of arm hole 18 to 19. To do this correctly use the full length and the square end of chart as try square and rule. Place straight edge of chart on line 12 with the bust measure in scale Q on line 18, 19. Then dot through bust measure in scales Q and R and at the waist measure in scale S. Remove chart. Care must be taken to have line 20 parallel with line 12. Draft out side body b b same size as one in back piece except making the necessary flare to skirt by placing straight edge of chart two inches up the line above 21 and continue same outward slope down to plait line. Continue J^kirt down the length required from 22, either straight or sloping to suit style. * _, CornweU^lmproved System of Cutting, 4i f POLONAISE BASQUE &. WRAPPER 19 Cornwall's Improved System of Cutting, 43 To Draft this "Walking Ooat, double breasted, place front chart on material 3 inches to the right from left edge, and proceed as in basque, except must add one size to the bust measure. In cutting the material, care must be taken that the grain of\ the doth runs precisely the same L as indicated by the fine lines in the cuts. ■a u Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting, ► *- BAND,MC NALLY A, CO.,ENQR'S,OHICAGO. Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 45 Ladies', Misses' and Children's Perfect Fitting Drawers. REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN G. 1st. Take measure from waist band, outside of leg to just below the knee. £d. Take measure around the body over the fullest part of hip, to which measurement add for fullness eight inches for large sizes, six inches for medium, and four inches for small. Bf . B, — Only use one-quarter this entire measurement in drafting the garment. 3d. Take measure around the waist to which meas- ure add for gathers or darts eight inches for large sizes, six inches for medium, and four inches for small. N. B. — Only use one-quarter this entire measurement in drafting the garment. 4th. Take the measure around the knee to which measure add for fullness from two to five inches to suit. TO DRAFT THE DRAWERS. fold your material lengthwise, keeping in mind you are cutting the back and front of one leg together ; this when cut and opened out, forms a perfect pattern. To Draft First Measurement,— measure from dot A to dot B length required. To Draft Second Measurement,— make dot C half-way between A and B then measure square across at right angles from dot C to dot D the {}£) width re- quired. To Draft Third Measurement for the Front Part, — measure square out to right from dot B the (34) width required to dot E, draw straight line B to E. Then place hole U at dot D with curved edge at dot E, and line E to D. For Back Part — use straight edge of chart to draw line from D to E, and continue line up to dot F, 2 or 3 inches from dot E. Draw straight line B to F. To Draft Fourth Measurement— make dot Gr at right of A across bottom of leg, the width requiied. Place hole U (wrong side up) at dot D, and line down curved edge to dot G. These rules may be applied in cutting boys' pants by reducing the proportions. m « 46 Cornwell's Improved System lor Cutting POSTILLION or RIDING HABIT. To cut this garment proceed as with Basque, making Front Skirt say 4 to 6 indies long, to suit taste. Make Back Skirt fay from 10 to 18 inches, or longer if desired. To shape Skirt of Side-body place hole •'IT" Back Chart, (wrong side up) at point a on side team the required length from waist line, with Back form Edge at b the required length of Skirt and line a to b. The Lap in Side-body c t > d should be about \}4 inches wide for butfons or may be omitted and sewed up i f desired. Cr"IN CUTTING THE CLOTH allow % of an inc'i fo: all seans, ex- cept in the neck aud arm-hole. Sew up the seams on the lines. In sewing up the should' r seams, stretch the front doth in the hollow t~> match the back. Turn the shoulder ;>nd side seams forward, and the darts jback. N. B.— In cutting the Side-body care must be taken that the grain of the clo h in the curved part runs the same as in the back. © Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 47 SACK CHEMISE Ladies', Misses' and Children's PERFECT FITTING. To Cut Sack Chemise.— Pro- ceed with the front chart as in plain waist, dotting out the required bust measures — leaving out the darts and lining only the shoulder and under-arm seams. Plaee dart scale of chart at last dot in arm-hole, with fig. 3 at dot A and fig. 6 1% inches in from under-arm line at dot B; then line only from A to point J, dot C; this forms under-part of sleeve. Place hole U (wrong side up) at dot E, two inches up shoulder line from dot D; line along edee, E to C ; make dot F square out to left 2 inches from dot E and line E to F. Place hole U at dot F and line out neck by curved edge to G, as low as required. To form style of yoke desired, use curved and straight edges of chart to line by. RAND, Me NALLY & C0.,ENGR'S,CHICAGO. * 8 Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. jn O CD P P © a- d *a o p *f ^ wo g o d a d p f p 2 5" o B P' S °° ► «■ op" ?• * 5 S. p &5"o b o- "d f Ss a s . «■ d » § S. 5 O 3 "&' ©So ^ 5 o 3 ^ S- p re .n- o ~ re 3. d cr oo EL § P A P B B : H O P- £. ^B <*■ =• p. - H- D' O «° d w re " 8 3 © P P' w 1^- C5 as OS . c+ "-3 p B * 3 2. P -. ^ I— d — d- o a - O oq t5 M re r 2- o r+ d O » •d « S 2 p. || © 8 B B &!& »2>& ^ s.* ■* To Cut a True Bias. 49 Place the selvedge of the cloth along the edge next to you on the table. With the right hand fold over point A to B, and cut through the fold at C C, removing the half square piece not to be used. Place the square end of back chart at D, and measure off along scale, square out at right angles from edge of cloth, the width of biases required, repeating like measurement from E, then line from edge to edge through these dots on which to cut off your bias pieces. SELVEDGE. SELVEDGE. AGENTS' GREETING-. By sending you this new circular we take pleasure once more in reminding you of the advance steps we are continually making in the art of dress-cutting. It is less than 3 year ago that our wonderful sleeve sys- tem first made its appearance, since which time more than 30,000 have been sold. Our self-fitting chart is growing no less appreciated, and doubling up in sales every year. We have in view for the future many inventions which we hope to complete, to the benefit of every owner of a Cornwell Self- fitting System. Few desires are greater in our hearts than to know the name, address and occupation of each and every one of our chart pur- chasers, that we may send something of value to them from time to time. We will always be pleased to reply to any question sent us concerning cutting, new styles, material, etc., etc. * Yours most respectfully, Willett Cobnwell, 60 CORNWELL'S IMPROVED SELF-FJTTINC — System for Cutting Sleeves Of all sizes, for both Children and Adults, and works perfectly in connection with the Cornwall's Self- Fitting Chart in Dress-Cutting. * IDIHECTIOITS. 1st. The figures in the scales "C," "D," "F," and "G," in this system, correspond with the Bust Measures as used in the Chart in cutting the dress. The same figures must be used in this system in cutting the sleeve to fit the dress. 2d. Take the length of Sleeve from the back of armhole, over the elbow to the wrist, with the arm bent. 3d. For upper part of Sleeve, place points A and B along selvage edge of cloth, dotting at "A" on the cl'^th as the point of beginning, then line along Scale edge from "A" toward "B," the length of sleeve required. Hold System in place. 4th. Dot holes at bust measure, in Scales C and D. Remove System, 5 th. Place point "E" at the dot on cloth made Scale U C," with the outer edge at the dot made in Scale U D" then draw a line from point "E," along Scale edge to the length of sleeve required. 6th. Remove the System, and draw a straight line across to the wrist. 7th. Place that point in Scale "F," indicating the bust measure at the dot on cloth made in Scale "C," with the oval edge at point "A," then line along oval edge from point "A" to dot. 8th. For under part of Sleeve, place points "A" anc 1 "B" along the selvage edge of cloth, then proceed as with the upper part of Sleeve, except us ng numbers in scale "6," in place of scale "C," and to draftthe armhole end use the curved edge at the right hand in place of the oval end at the 1 ft hand. 9th. Cut the Sleeve out on the lines. Make no al- lowance for seams. In basting the Sleeve always com- mence at the top. The Sleeve should be so put in the dress that the outside seam will come directly over the point of the elbow when bent. Wfek^/i f^c^iVed d\I^(L w 3the^/\st ye ARSP S ELF F ITT 1 Nil ^^Sfate^vaab ft, •^V' SLEEVE SYSTEM.*"^ Whitesboro, Tex., March 1, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL.— I have been selling your Charts for the past five years. I was left a widow fifteen years ago, since that time I aave tried school-teaching, keeping boarders and dress-making, and [ can truly say that I have never found anything that kept the readf money in my pocket to meet all demands like selling the Cornwell Oharts. I enjoy selling them because they give such perfect satis- faction. Ladies say to me, after using it, Mrs. Diamond, I would aot take any amount of money for my Cornwell Chart and do with- out it. Some say to me, I do not baste, but I take a correct meas- lre and sit down to my machine and sew it up for I know it's going :o fit. I have sold over 500 charts. Mrs. A. J. Diamond, General Traveling Agent for the State of Texas. Watertown, Wis., Feb. 26, 1884. WILLETT CORNWELL, Esq.—I would like to add one to the many testimonials as to the excellence of your Self-fitting Chart, ivhich in my estimation has no equal, though I have tried many )ther charts, found them all imperfect compared with this, tvhich I have used about ten years. I have been local agent for six fears for this vicinity, and during that time have sold here at home Dver 420, with full instructions, and think I may safely say that ?very one has given perfect satisfaction. I sell to sub-agents and sveryone that leaves my territory for other places to work. Hop- ng you may always prosper, I am yours respectfully, Miss C. Gardner. Jeffersonville, Ohio, Feb. 2, 1884. WILLETT CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have been using your Jharts for dress cutting and fitting; am well pleased with it, al- ways having good success. I think I can sell several Charts, would ike to know what your terms are to agents. Please give me your >est terms by return mail for Sleeve System also. Respectfully, Katy Compton. Wheeling, Minn., Feb. 20, 1884 WILLETT CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Would you please send me he price of your wonderful Self -fitting Chart. I have one ; I think .t is a gem. I can sell some here. I want to be an agent. ) Lizzie A. John. Leaskdale, Scott Co., Ont., Feb. 4, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I purchased one of your most ex- ;ellent Dress Charts and am very much pleased with it. I have 'riends that have seen its good works and want me to take the tgency. Please send me terms and instruction books, circulars, )tc, and oblige yours truly. Miss M. E. Murray. > ^ n i i ii i i in ■ in i i nirimniirM— — i— mmmim n - i m ,j CORNWELL'S IMPROVED Philadelphia, Feb. 21, 1884. Mrs. CORNWELL.— It affords ine, great pleasure to .be able to add my testimony in favor of the Cornwell Chart. I have used it^ successfully for several years, and would advise all persons who wish a perfect fitting dress, with the least trouble to purchase your system before they have such great demand that the price will go up in the same proportion. Mattie E. White. Philadelphia, Feb. 25, 1884. Mrs. CORNWELL.— I heartily endorse all the good things said of your Chart. I think it one of the best in use. Yours respect- fully, Mrs. L. Hindle. Head Lady in Dressmaking Department Custer & Son, 45 No. 8th stroot Johnstown, Pa., Feb. 21, 1884. Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I have come across marny Charts during my time of dressmaking, but always found yours the best yet. They are easy to teach by, accurate, and perfect in every style, and of all the hundreds of your Self-fitting Charts and most elegant Sleeve Charts I have sold so far, I have not heard of any complaint yet. On the contrary^ I have more calls for them every day and you may look out for big orders this season. All it wants is to show one of your Charts on the side of another, and it will quickly do away with it. I shall, before long, give you another good order. Since I started your Charts here, which is many years since, I have sold them to every dressmaker in town, not to speak of the hundreds of private parties who bought it after taking in- structions how to use it. Thev never fail and therefore I can rec- ommend them to every one. Yours respectfully, Mrs. Mart Ruth. Easton, Pa., Feb. 25, 1884. , Mrs. CORNWELL.— Having purchased one of your Self-fitting Charts in 1870, for my own use, and finding its great worth, I soon became your agent, and traveled with it through a number of cities and states, meeting with great success in cutting patterns and dresses of every desired style, without failing to obtain a perfecfJ fit. In 1876 the new} Improved Self-fitting Chart made its appear-' ance, of which I sold hundreds, and have instructed both young and old with pleasure and perfection, and during my travels often met agents with different models and systems, and by close examina- tion would challenge me that self -fitting could not be done, but af- ter a test they always acknowledged the merits of your valuable in- vention. Having been in your employ for over thirteen years, I should feel that I was imposing upon the public if I should at- tempt to sell any other, and no lady should be without it, there- fore I take great pleasure in recommending your Chart and Sleeve System to ail. Yours respectfully, Louisa C. Uhler. Winnebago, Wis., Feb. 23, 1884. Mr. W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Having within the last 12 months bought one of your Charts, I find it far superior to any I have used before. I have been a dressmaker in Oshkosh for the last eleven years. Please send me one of your Chart books, circu- lars, etc., and greatly oblige Anna Phillips. Piketon, Ohio, Feb. 24, 1884. t# Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I am using your Self -fitting Char\\\ and like it very much; some of my friends wish to learn of me to use it. I should like the agency of your Chart very much for I think an agent would be sure of success with such a Chart to sell. • On what terms will you sell me your Charts. Hoping I may hear^j! from you soon, I remain respectfully, Amanda Rhoads. & , : — g| SELF-FITTINO CHART, Creal Springs, Williamson Co., 111., Jan. 16, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL.— Having purchased one of your perfectly-fit- ting Charts I wish to say I think it has no equal. I am thinking of 'going to dressmaking for myself. I would like to know if you could send me some of your publications on dressmaking. I will send a stamp for pamplilet. Please send immediately for I may change my residence. I am a farmer's daughter. Yours respect- •fully, Miss Lina Anderson. Cape Neddick, Me., Feb. 11, 1884. Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL — Sir:— I am now acting as agent for your Dress-cutting System in this neighborhood, and have al- ready sold quite a number, for which I will send the order to you in the course of a few days. I wish you to send me all the inf oamation necessary for an agent. I wish also to know what is the price of the tracing wheels and if there is anything made in offering them for sale. I find your System takes well and that I can make ready sales for it. I purchased from Miss Wait, your agent. 1 remain Mrs. Chas. Templeton. Dodd City, Fannin Co., Tex., Jan. 23, 1884. Mr. CORNWEL.L.— I own one of your Charts, and can say this much : I would not do without it for anything. I know of so many that would buy them that 1 have concluded to take an agency, if I could make the arrangements with you. Send me twelve Charts and Sleeve Systems, tracers, tape lines, and instruction books (an outfit of twelve), and I will send you the money or will do any way I you instruct me to. I know a number of ladies that would buy | them if they only had some one to teach them their use. I feel > satisfied that I can do good work for you. Send the Charts imme- diately. Miss Sue McClary (teacher). Baraboo, Wis., Jan. 8, 1884. •'Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Having purchased one of your Self-fitting Charts and am very much pleased with it. I have used it six months and not one misfit ; no money could buy it if I could not have another. Wishing to be classed in your drawing and the '^enefit you confer, I will sell some of your Charts for you. Please | send me your terms, etc. ; write soon. Address Eva Schellenberger, dressmaker. SoduB, N. Y., Feb. 25, 1884. Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL— Dear Sir:— Having used one of your Self -fitting Charts for the past three years, and being very successful with it, I now have an opportunity of teaching some others dressmaking. I would like to know the price of the Chart, either single or by the quantity, and how soon I will receive them after sending. Please answer immediately as I am in somewhat of a hurry, and oblige, Miss Allie Haryet. Winnipeg, Manitoba, Feb. 6, 1884. WILLETT CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I have used your Im- proved Self-fitting Chart for over two years in Ontario. Since com- ing to this city, several parties have asked me to procure Charts for them. Will you kindly write me your terms now, as I may be able to make some sales. The one I have gives the very best satisfac- tion possible. I could not dressmake without it. Yours truly, £ t A. L. Allardyce, 25 Ross street. ! Feb. 16, 1884. Lizzie S. Torrence, of Harshaville, Pa., says: I like your Chart \ very much after using and selling it for years. I have found your K" Sleeve System to be very successful. I never saw anything to equal it. Inclosed find names of last class taught. CORNWELL'S IMPROVED Delta, Leed Co., Ontario, Jan. 7, 1884. Mr. W. CORNWELL,— Sir:— I purchased one of your Charts three years ago and have been using it ever since with good suc- cess, and wanting to purchase one or more, and wishing to know \ your terms or get an agency, as there is no agent near here. I think I could do well as I am dressmaking under the instructions of your invaluable Chart. If you see fit I would be glad of tjie agency. Mrs. G. N. Huffman. Orr, Jackson Co., Minn., Jan. 5, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL— Dear Sir:— I purchased one of your Self -fit- ting Charts and learned to cut live years ago, and I have done some very nice work with it and I never had over one hour's instruction in all, but I am very much pleased with it and would like your terms for all kinds of your SystemSj as I wish to teach several others to cut. I am a teacher of public schools, a farmer's wife, and somewhat of a dressmaker. Please send me price list as I wish to purchase several Charts of you and teach others, and oblige Mrs. Emma Stoddard. Fort Plain, N. Y., Jan. 10, 1884. WILLETT CORNWELL— Dear Sir:— I would like a Chart and Sleeve System as soon as convenient. I don't think there is any sys- tem that will compare with your Chart and Sleeve System. I have an apprentice who wants one. I am in hopes to have a little time so I can introduce your Chart. Enclosed find $ . Yours re- spectfully, Jennie A. Campbell. Reading, Pa., Jan. 31, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir :— Please let me know how you fur- nish your Improved Self -fitting Dressmaker's Chart to a dressmaker. This is my occupation and I shall shortly need a few of them to sup- ply my apprentices. I find the Chart to be a perfect, never-failing rule in fitting . Yours respectfully Mart A. Gruber, 207 North Sixth street. Doniphan, Hall Co., Neb., Jan. 14, 1884. W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Enclosed find money, for which send me twelve of your folding Charts and Sleeve Systems. I have^ been using your Chart for six years, during which time I have been I a very successful dressmaker. I have been almost too busy to sell many of your Charts. I have moved to this place and think I can sell your Chart without any trouble. Will you please tell me how you sell Charts by the hundred; have lost what you sent me, last summer, and I have forgotten your terms. I have already sold the Charts which I now send for so will patiently await arrival. I close hoping to hear soon. Mrs. M. M. Harrell. Hopkinton, Mass., February, 1884. Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Please send me one of Cornwell's Im- proved Self-fitting Charts as soon as possible. I am a dressmaker and have used your Chart for three years. I cannot find any fault with it whatever ; it is just splendid. I have learned several how to cut by your Chart, and they all think the same as I do. Please send as soon as possible. Address as above, box 267. Lizzie Murphy. Brownsville, Minn., Feb. 20, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I wish to ask you for a favor ..^ Would you please send me the agency for the Charts, and will you J: please send me the price list. I want to try and canvass some. I learned dressmaking. I have one of your Charts and like it ever so much ; it is just splendid and always fits. I remain yours truly, , Minnie Baska. ' .. , -A SELF-FITTING: CHART, Alanthus, Mass., July 30, 1883. Mb. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Dear Sir:— I purchased five of your Self -fitting Charts about two years ago, and have sold all of ^them. They have given entire satisfaction so far as I have learned. But owing to eickness I have neglected to report my success to you. I think your Charts are quite a saving or time and patience. I would not take several times the cost of mine and do without it, *or I prize it very highly. Yours respectfully, C. M. Grantham. Johnstown, Pa., Oct. 14, 1883. Mr. W. CORN WELL.— About nine months ago I purchased one of your truly Self-fitting Charts, and would not part with it no way. I have been doing plain sewing for some time ; could have done dressmaking had I known how to cut and fit, as I do now. Since using your Chart I have cut and made several dresses which fave entire satisfaction. Seeing in your circulars you wished to now the names of all using your valuable Chart, I give mine here- with. Mrs. E. fl. Ready. Huntsville, Tex., Oct. 26, 1883. Mr. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Sir:— Some time since I pur- chased your Chart and instructions from your agent, Mrs. Diamond. Afterward I bought 12 Charts for the purpose of securing the agency. 1 think the Chart more than a success, and want you to give me your agency terms immediately. I also wish the names of those to whom I have sold Charts classed together with my own in your sewing machine prize drawing for the sewing machine at the close of the year; you will find the list of names below. Very res- pectfully, Ellen Eastham. Dunkinsville, Adams Co., O., Dec. 27, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL. — Dear Sir:— I was an agent for your old Chart -.-,nd was very successful in selling. I made clear one day $27. 1 have used the new one for seven years, with splendid success. I always thought I would get the agency for your new Systems, as they are still better and so much easier learned. I wouldn't take ten times the cost of mine and do without it. You will please send ',me four of your Charts with sleeves. M. M. Scott. Ganges, Allegan Co., Mich., Nov. 3, 1883. Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— Please send me by mail one Cornwell Self-fitting Chart and new Sleeve System for cutting dresses. Mrs. Helen Miller. P. S.— We have used one of your Self -fitting Charts and Sleeve Systems now eighteen months, and we find it to be a perfect system for dress-cutting; we cut by its aid with perfect success, without be- ing taught by any one. Yours respectfully, H. M. Westfield, Chautauqua Co., N. Y., Dec. 31, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL.— Sir:— Four years ago I took of Mrs. Frank- land in Michigan an agency for your Charts. Immediately after sickness and death came near me and so placed me that I could do nothing with it. Since then 1 have used the Chart with complete success. I could not do without it. Now another lady here wants one, and as there are none of the kind hereabouts I hope to sell a number right here as soon as they see that others besides me can ,nse it as well. Please send me information concerning agencies, Suiitc., what you will furnish Charts for, immediately, as she can hard- ly wait. I hope to do some good work for you here and yet beyond here. Hoping to hear from you soon, I remain a firm friend of . your peerless chart. Yours respectfully, Juliet S. Chamberltn. "* SELF-FITTING CHART. Rochester, N. Y., Dec. 14, 1883. Mr. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Dear Sir:— Are your supplement- ary diagrams for basques, etc., sent free ? If so, please send a few to my address. I am about to start on atrip south and westward* (first going as far west as Aurora, Ind., and perhaps into Illinois, where I have relatives). I shall want a lot of your Systems, for I do think it an excellent thing. It is what its name implies— "Self- fitting. " Hoping to hear and receive soon. lam in need also of Charts. Please tell me what you charge by the hundred. In- closed please find stamps for return postage. Please write at once, stating terms, etc., and oblige, M. L. Chauncey. N. B.— This lady is called the best dressmaker in the city. West Union, Fayette Co., Iowa, Dec. 13, 1883. Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Sir:— Inclosed find postoffice order for $ , for which please send me four of your Charts with sleeve. I have used those sent before. My apprentices are going out to other towns with them, which will probably call for others. I feel such perfect trust in the Chart that I am not at all anxious about their success, as I have when I was using other kinds. Send to the ad- dress as above, and oblige, Miss Sue Fox. Mount Vernon, Baltimore Co., Jan. 26, 1883. Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I am a dressmaker and have used your Chart for more than a year. I prize it very highly and would not part with it for one hundred dollars if I could not get another. I would like to get the agency for this place, if there is no other. I do not know of any other ; also of Montgomery and Prince George's counties. I have a great many relatives living in those counties. Please let me know by return mail. Truly yours, Miss M. Edith Farrall. Crystal Springs, N. Y., June 20, 1883. ' Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I received your package and I thank you for it. I like your Improved System very much ; I could not do without it, as I have a good deal of cutting to do. I can sell them easily. Yours respectfully, Ann Pitcher. ^ Philadelphia, March 4, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL— I have had your Chart in use ten years. It does ail that is represented for it to do ; I do not wish anything bet- ter. The Cornwell Chart is the fourth one I have learned to use and find it the best; gives entire satisfaction to my customers. I would have answered sooner but sickness prevented. Mrs. L. Forbes, No. 928 N. Eleventh Street. MRS. J. W. WELLS, Dressmaker, No. 882 State St., says: I have been a dressmaker for 24 years, and in that time have used a great many different models and charts, but until I purchased a "Cornweir 1 1 never felt that I had anything that I could confidently rely upon, but now after thorough and repeated trials during the past 9 months I am free to say that your chart by far excels any other that I have ever heard of or used. In fact, I consider it perfect in all respects. In dressmaking I find that no alterations are ever required, so accurate are all its rules. The measurement to the hollow of the shoulder fits all shaped shoulders and the rule for subtracting the waist measure from th# bust measure, fits elegantly any shaped bust, no matter how full it may be. This chart is very easily learned, as I had but about two hours in- struction in its use to begin with. J ft . SELF-FITTING CHART. Avening, Ont, Canada, July 9, 1883. j Mr. W. CORNWELL, Chicago, 111 :— I received your letter-cir- culars—terms to agents, etc. I consider your terms satisfactory. I I have already purchased one of your Charts from one of your agents, VMrs. Crozier, of Thornbury, and am glad to find it contains so F much detail in cutting, and I also feel confident that the simplicity of its working is such as will meet the approval of all who use it. I am a tailor and cutter, so you will understand that it is only oc- l casionally that an opportunity presents itself for me to make a sale. v However, I consider your terms very good ; I will do what I can for you and myself by selling the Charts. Yours respectfully, Joseph Kee. El Dorado Springs, Mo., May 4, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— Would it be imprudent to ask "special" terms for three Charts with sleeves? I am surel can sell two ; I want to keep one for my little girl, Etta May, aged 10 years. She can draft a plain waist from watching me use the Chart. She asks me every time I cut a dress if I won't send and get her one — she must have one of your Charts, for they discount all others in simplicity and perfection. I feel like it is a duty to teach her to cut by measure and by "the infallible rule," I term it. I will send as soon as I hear from you, without fail, but my means are too small ' to send for six or I would send without delay. If my health will > permit I shall try and sell a few out in the country. Doctors have given up my case. I shall work for you ; when you cease to hear from me I shall be "no more. " Yours very respectfully, Mrs. J. H. Ponsler. Circleville, Ohio, June 81, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir :— 1 will inclose money for one Chart for Mrs. Moore. I am very sorry I am not able to send for more. I have three girls learning the Chart. I have poor health and can jgpt do any better at present. I have found your Chart everything it is represented to be. By it I can cut and fit a dress in bed; I have done it frequently. I try to sell ail I can, and do all I can for it. Yours, and oblige, Sarah J. Downs. Oakley, Macon Co., 111., June 15, 1883. Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I purchased one of your Self-fitting Charts about three vears ago and would not do without it for |50. What would you furnish eight for ? There are several young ladies want me to learn them to use it. Yours truly, Miss Kate Alsbury. Peach Grove, Ky., Jan. 23, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL, Chicago, 111.— Having purchased your excel- lent Chart from Miss Bell McLachlan, I can with pleasure acknowl- edge the perfect satisfaction it gives. Also your Sleeve Chart is just splendid. There are several ladies that want your Self-fitting Charts, also the Sleeve Chart. Will you please tell me your terms and how I can get them by return mail. Send all information nec- essary, so I can send to you for the charts immediately. Yours in haste", Miss Alia Rouse. Coaticook, Prov. Quebec, Jan. 25, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have your Chart; have used it four years. Think it the best of all others. Three of my friends t iiish to have one. The one I have is your Improved Self-fitting Chart. My occupation is dressmaking and cloakmaking. In four years' practice not one bad-fitting dress have I had. Please what would be your terms for a dozen or more Charts ? 1 hope to hear from you as soon as convenient, and oblige, E. M. Blossom. "* CORNWELL'S IMPROVED Holton, Ind., June 18, 1883. Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have given your Improved Self-fitting Chart a thorough trial, and find it much superior to any I ever used. Inclosed please find payment for 4 Charts and Sleeve Systems and one 10 cent stamp for circular. Please send immedi- ately and oblige, Miss Flora Lemen. Ottumwa, Iowa, Oct. 23, 1883. Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Sir:— Inclosed please find post office order, for which send me (by return mail if possible) four Self-fitting Folding Charts. All that I have sold give good satisfaction. I can't see how I did without one myself so long. I expect to always keep one, for I would as soon do without my sewing machine. I expect to sell more after these. Mrs. A. W. Buchanan. Biggs Sta., Butte Co., Cal., June 15, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have sent a post office order to pay for two improved Cornwell Charts and the new Sleeve System. Please forward as soon as you get this letter, and oblige. I would say I cannot take the agency, as I haven't the time at present, and do not know of any lady who will take the agency. I have used your Chart for five years and have made a splendid success with it as a dressmaker. It may be so I can take the agency soon. Please send by mail, and oblige, Emma Sparks. Salt Springs, Ga., June 16, 1883. Mr.WILLETT CORNWELL.— Sir:— I write to know what you will let me have a Sleeve System for. As I have one of your Charts, I would like the Sleeve System to complete my dressmaking. I would not be without the Chart for ten times the worth of it. Per- haps I can sell some Charts for you in the fall. I have sold 12 Charts that I got from your agent, Mrs. Price. I will try and see what I can do. I want the Sleeve System for myself. Please write me ; you will find a stamp inclosed to pay postage. Yours respect- fully, Prisctlla Dinean. Rome, Oneida Co., N. Y., Dec. 29, 1883. Mr.WILLETT CORNWELL.— Sir:— Please find inclosed $ , for which I wish you to send me one of your Improved Self -fitting Charts with Sleeve System. Having used your Chart the last three' years I find nothing equal to it, and presume I could sell more of them than I have, Dut am not in circumstances that I have the means to order a quantity at a time. As I am an old friend to the Chart cannot you give me a certificate of agency and allow me to sell them? Very respectfully, Mrs. M. M. Trenham. Mill Creek, Bourbon Co., Kan., June 29, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL.— Sir:— I would like to know your terms to agents for your excellent Chart. I think I could sell some in Fort Scott, unless you have an agent there. 1 obtained mine of Mrs. Mc- Collister, who lives five miles south of me. I can say for a truth that the Self-fitting Chart does all that it claims to do. I got mine about one year ago last March. 1 have not had the least bit of trouble; can take the measure and cut and make a dress without changing a stitch, and feel that I could not get along without it. It is like the love of God in the heart— too good a thing to keep still. I want to persuade others to buy them. Yours truly, Mrs. Nannie Stewart. Alpena, Mich., June 3, 1883. * Mr. CORNWELL.— Dear Sir:— I have used your Chart for over 10 years, with the greatest satisfaction for myself and others. I could not get along without it any more than I could without my sewing machine. Very respectfully yours, Mrs. H. E. Smith. CORNWELL'S IMPROVED Grant Park, Kankakee Co., 111., Nov. 12, 1888. I Mb. WILLETT CORN WELL.— Dear Sir:— Will you please In- form me by return mail what you can furnish me the Cornwell's Belf-fitting Chart with CornwelPs Self-fitting System for Cutting Ileeveafor? I would like to act as agent for you, as there is no gent in this neighborhood. There are a few wanting Charts right 'away, if they are as good as recommended, and I can say for one, that 1 don't want anything any easier and more reliable than the IJornwell Chart. I have used one of them for a little over a year, Wnd have never had to refit a single waist; but it is useless for me to waste my time telling you what it will do. Hoping to hear from you soon, I remain yours very respectfully, Eliza Rbbd. Joplin, Jasper Co., Mo., Nov. 6, 1883. Mr. W. CORNWELL.— Inclosed you will find money, for which I wish you to send me one dozen Charts and Sleeve Systems. When I receive these it will make 28 1 have got from you. All I have sold give satisfaction. It is most two years since I saw your advertise- ments and sent for a Chart. I have cut a great many dresses by it, basques, loose and tight-fitting waists and polonaise ; in fact, I never use patterns for anything, and I have never made a misfit or had a dress to alter ; in fact, I have cut dozens of dresses and never had any of them to find fault. I might have done better with the Charts, but I have been sick and crippled so I could not canvass as I would, but I think I shall do better now. Please send me designs for ladies' clothing by mail. Mrs. Mary J. Strickland, Dress Maker. Sibley, Osceola Co., Iowa, Oct. 22, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL:— Having used your Chart for several years, I now take the liberty of addressing you. I am a seamstress, con- sequently I am at a great many places. I owe all my success to your Chart, and think I could do good if I had an agency. Please write me as soon as convenient, as I have a number of friends who ai i waiting for me to hear from you, as they all wish a Chart. Do you ever send your goods C. O. D ? Respectfully, Nannie Edmondson. Henrietta, N. Y., Sept. 3, 1883. Mr. WILLETT CORNWELL, Chicago— Dear Sir:- Having used your world-renowned Chart for some eight years, I am very much pleased with it, and know that dresses can be made to fit ele- gantly without once trying on. I am persuaded there is no system Invented possessing superiority over it. I am a dressmaker. Please Bend me some of your books and price-list ; I wish to become one of your agents. Several here would like to purchase your Charts. Yours truly, Mrs. Mollib F. Dawson. Orion, Mich., July 10, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL:— Please send me a price-list of your Dress Charts, also a description and price-list of your Sleeve Charts. I have owned one of the Dress Charts several years, and it gives complete satisfaction. Yours respectfully, Mrs. D. L. Brown. Beacon, Mahaska Co., Iowa, June 20, 1883. Mr. CORNWELL: — I am reading through a circular that was sent to Emma Harrold. I saw that you wished to know the address and occupation of each of your Chart purchasers. I have had one of your improved Self-fitting Charts for seven years and I like it splen- did. I do not see how we could get along without it. I have four Bisters beside myself, and I do the sewing for all and for some other feople. I do not know what my occupation will be yet, but I think will follow the dressmaking business. Yours truly, Clara McCrba. SELF-FITTING CHART. Fond du Lac, Feb. 5, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Please send me a couple of your printed envelopes, as I wish to send for Charts right away. How much are they now ? You remember me as buying several of you, I have used your System ever since I did dressmaking, which is eleven years. I will need several pretty soon for apprentice girls. Some say when I get tired of dressmaking I will take an agency and go traveling for awhile. I could sell heaps] of them. lam counted the best dressmaker and cutter. I received first prize for the best fitting dress on the most disagreeable figure that could be * found in the city at the State Fair. Send envelopes as soon as pos- sible, for I want to send for Charts by return mail. Please address Mrs. Norris Brown, corner First and Macy street. Philadelphia, Feb. 25, 1884. Mr. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I take pleasure in saying that I have used your Chart constantly for the past twelve years, during which time it has given me perfect satisfaction, and I know of no other for which 1 would be willing to exchange it. I have also taught your System for several years and have always had the most pleasing results from my pupils. Hoping your Chart may be as successfully used by others as by me, I am yours very respectfully, L. E. Yarnall, 1202 Chestnut street. Red Wing, Minn., Jan. 2, 1884. Mr. W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— I have been using your Self- fitting Chart for three or four years. I don't think it can be beat, for I have the very best of luck fitting dresses ; 1 work at dressmak- ing ; there are several ladies who want Charts. Please tell me what terms and how I can get your Charts and Sleeve System of you. I want to send you the money as soon as I can hear from you, for as many as I can sell. Please send me all the information necessary. Yours respectfully, Mrs. Mathilda Erickson. Poughkeesie, N. Y., March 3, 1884. ' W. CORNWELL,— Dear Sir:— Having purchased one of your Im- proved Self-fitting Charts four months ago of a dressmaker resid- ing in Wilbur, N. Y.,I wish to say that I think it has no equal. I am a dressmaker, and since using your valuable Chart I give entir^ satisfaction to my customers. Please send me agents 1 terras and oblige, Miss Tina Mathies, 42 N. Water street. Sedalia, Pettis Co., Mo., July 12, 1882. WILLETT CORNWELL, Esq.— Dear Sir:— Inclosed find $ for one of your Improved Self-fitting Charts. I have used your most valuable Chart with satisfaction^ mvself and customers for several years, and feel that I could not do dressmaking for the public without it. I have had the misfortune to be burned out, and lost everything, even my Chart; have nothing to work with left. I feel that the first thing to begin business with again is to secure another Chart. Have had the offer of the Magic Scale and many others since the fire, but could not think of using any but yours. Please send by return mail, and oblige, Yours most respectfully, Mrs. L. J. Muncey, Dressmaker. Burlington, Vt., April 13, 1882. WILLETT CORNWELL.— Sir:— Here enclosed you will find P. O. order for the required amount of Charts, which please send by mail. You will also find 25 cents enclosed for postage. If this ?3 not enough, please send C. O. D. Trusting you will oblige us im- mediately, we are, Respectfully, Ward & Hempy, Dressmakers. P. S. — We use your Chart and do not think there is another that can compete with it in the United States. W. & H. * i- , H Tape Measures. 60 inches long, Mir- ror on one side, and Perpetual Calendar on the other, nickel plat- ed; 75c. each, 6 for $2, per doz., $3.50. Nickel Spring.— Plain, 60 cents each ; $2.50 per doz. Common Tailor. — Tapes 60 inch, serviceable, 10 cents each ; 40 cents per doz. Ladies 9 Hand Bag. Leather, 7 inches, Nick- el Trimmed, outside pock- ets ; $1 each ; per doz., $9. Book Needle Case. A perfect gem in the shape of a book, bound in velvet and ornament- ed with gold flowers ; 60 cents each, per dozen, $3.25. Velvet Spiral Tidy Fasteners. Green, Red and Blue; 35c. per doz. or $3.50 per gross. Paper Lap Boards, Each, $1.00. *" 33TJY THE BEST! The Light Running NEW HOME 600,000 NOW IN USE. Every Machine Warranted, and every war- ranty held good. Write direct to the Company if yon have any trouble. The NEW HOME stands at the head for Embroidery, Chenille and arrasene work. It has the very latest and improved Attachments, and our New Styles cannot fail to please von. Send for circular. NEW HOME SEWING MACHINE CO., 248 State Street, Chicago. *■ BOILED DOWN. WE WANT AN ACTIVE. ENTERPRISING LADY TO WORK FOR US IX EVERY LOCALITY. To procure your best efforts to introduce our System of Cutting in your vicinity,we will agree to sell to you direct, at our lowest prices, the same as we sell to agents, any number you may wish— one Chart with Sleeve System, $2.50 ; 4 Charts, $6 ; with Sleeve Systems, $2 extra; one dozen Charts with Sleeve Systems, $20 ; this last order entitles the purchaser to a Certificate of ex- clusive Agency. Hope you may be our agent. For this System you would have to pay an agent at retail from $5 tb $8, while many successful agents even get $10 to $12 for it. Now, if yon will send ns $2.50 in our return envelope, we will return to you by mail one of our Improved Self-Fitting Chart and Sleeve Systems, (providing you do not take advan- tage of a larger order at lower prices,) when you will soon find that you would not take $10 for your pupchase, but would have on hand a System that will cut every garment worn by Ladies, Misses and Chil- dren, without paying a profit to a middle party. You can buy all you want of ns and sell them anywhere there is no agent at work, and make the usual profit in the business. To speedily introduce our System into your locality, we make this liberal promise that if you send us an order, and afterward wish to exchange back, we will return you the money free. Now, if you cannot send us an order yourself, but will induce some smart business Woman to take our offer and send us an order for not less than $8, we will give you a Chart and Sleeve System free. If you can d© no more for us, be kind enough to send US the names and addresses, plain- ly written, of all the Dressmakers, Milliners, School Teachers, Agents, Canvassers and Smart Business Wo- rn, n you know of, and we will reward you for it. Send stamps for our New 68-page Book on Dressmaking. WIIXETT CORNWELL, 4229 Wabash Ave,, Chicago. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS (314 061 943 7 \ ■* LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 061943 7 •