Presented -e— 
 
 "•WITH-THE'COMPLIMENTS-OF- 
 
 •THE-PASSENGER-DEPARTMENT-OF- 
 
 eULUTH SOUTH SHORE e-ATLANTIC 
 
^^ 
 
 fll^ 
 
w^L^o 1893 
 
 ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE 
 
 OF 
 
 LAKE SUPERIOR. 
 
COPYRIGHTED BY 
 B. HIBBARD, GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT, 
 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC r'y, 
 iSoo. 
 
 ? -s^ ' 
 
 -AMERICAN BANK NOTE CO. 
 
 33741 
 
A SECRET AND A WORD ASIDE. 
 
 I am a palmer, as ye see, 
 
 Whyche of my lyfe much part have spent 
 In many a fayre and farre countrie 
 
 As pilgrims do of good intent. 
 
 —Old Ballad. 
 
 The man who always writes three 
 weeks ahead of the season to his land- 
 lord at Long Branch, to order the same 
 little bedroom he has gone to every 
 year of the last twenty, must regard 
 me as a stupid fellow for introducing 
 still another retreat for tourists and 
 tired folk. Why, heavens and earth ! 
 he must say, there are too many places 
 to go to already. The Flying Dutch- 
 man himself could not get around to 
 all of them. 
 
 But the truth of the matter is that 
 there never can be too many such 
 books as this, or too many of Nature's 
 beauty-spots to celebrate. I do not 
 say so because this region happens to be 
 more lovely and salubrious than most 
 of the others, or because there are still 
 trysting places for Dame Nature and 
 her lovers that are unheralded and un- 
 sung. My argument — call it a discov- 
 ery, if you please — is, that the main 
 desideratum of the people is change. 
 
 You can almost sum up happiness 
 in that one word ; you can almost an- 
 alyze Rest, or its first cousin. Recrea- 
 tion, in that little word change. 
 
 "You'll find no change in me," said 
 the rich man, as he buttoned his pock- 
 ets when the poor relative told 
 him his tale of woe. And so, 
 in a serious sense, you will find no 
 
 change in the dull routine of the labor- 
 er and the sempstress in their city gar- 
 rets. And, do not their faces show it 
 — do not their intellects feel it? So 
 strong is the demand for this magic 
 quality called "change," that poor and 
 unlucky indeed is the city man and 
 woman, now-a-days, who does not plan 
 a week's change of scene in the high 
 tide of each summer. Follow him or 
 her and see how wretched a room they 
 get, what poor fare their little money 
 buys. But they get the change of scene 
 they want, the change of faces and of 
 habits — the change ! the change ! 
 
 What else do you suppose prompts 
 wealthy men and women to go and 
 coop up in those great seaside barracks 
 at Narragansett Pier and Cape May 
 and Long Branch? What tempts a 
 lovely lady to leave her suite of elegant 
 rooms, her boudoir, her dressing-room, 
 her bath-room and her bedroom, to 
 share a bed with her daughter in one 
 little room at the seaside ? Why, 
 Change ! Change ! So, then, come 
 with me to the south shore of Lake 
 Superior, and get some change your- 
 self. 
 
 And not small change, to revert to 
 the joke with its double definition, but 
 abrupt, delightful, almost startling 
 change! 
 
THE GREAT INLAND SEA. 
 
 In a word, I am going with you 
 to skirt the southern shore of Lake 
 Superior, that great bowl which we, 
 magnificent belittlers of the grandest 
 of Nature's achievements, call a lake, 
 yet which, were it in Europe, would 
 have become one of the seas of the 
 world, paraded by navies and dividing 
 empires. 
 
 "Two hundred and thirty-two years 
 ago the first white man stood on the 
 <j^^. shores of 
 
 '"^^ Lake Supe 
 rior." 
 ^*^ writes 
 
 Thus 
 Con- 
 
 the wilderness and its savages, cold 
 and hunger, torture and death, for no 
 hope of earthly reward, for no gold 
 mines, for no fountain of youth, but 
 simply for the salvation of souls. And, 
 whatever posterity may think of the 
 utility of their work, it must at least 
 admire the courage and devotion of 
 these fathers, who, almost without ex- 
 ception, laid down their lives for the 
 cause. What can a man do more ? Five 
 years later came the turn of this first 
 white man of Lake Superior, murdered 
 by the Indians in the forests near the 
 Mohawk River. 
 
 stance Fenimore Woolson, in "Pict- 
 uresque America." " Before him was 
 assembled a crowd of Indians — two 
 thousand Ojibways and other Algon- 
 quins — listening, with curiosity, to the 
 strange tidings he brought, and, in 
 some instances, allowing the mystic 
 drops to be poured upon their fore- 
 heads; for, like all explorers of the 
 lake-country, this man was a mission- 
 ary. Only religious zeal could brave 
 
 " Since that first visit, more than 
 two centuries ago — a long time for 
 fast-moving American history — the 
 great lake has remained almost un- 
 known to the world of books. Even 
 now, while the far Pacific Coast is 
 pictured and described in all the mag- 
 azines and newspapers of the day, 
 portions of Lake Superior remain 
 }erra incognita ; and with the excep- 
 tion of dry surveys and geological 
 
THE GREAT INLAND SEA. 
 
 reports^ the libraries are barren of its 
 very name. And yet the scenery is 
 grand beyond the power of verbal de- 
 scription. Stored away in its bays are 
 groups of islets as fair as any in 
 Southern seas. All along its shore are 
 waterfalls, some silvery, some claret- 
 colored; some falling two hundred feet 
 over a precipice, and others leaping 
 down the cliffs in a long series of cas- 
 cades. In parts of the coast the sand- 
 stone rocks are worn and fretted into 
 strange shapes of castles, faces and fig- 
 ures, which stand out like sculpture; 
 and farther north, porphyry cliffs tower 
 above the water — a perpendicular cliff 
 thirteen hundred and fifty feet high — 
 stern guardians of the silver at their 
 base. Mirage of wonderful beauty is 
 seen on the lake; and the Indians 
 had many a tale of lost islands float- 
 ing in charge of a Manitou, veiled 
 at his will in silver fog. Persons cross- 
 ing from point to point in their canoes 
 would bring strange tales of these 
 islets ; but though they searched a 
 lifetime through, they never could find 
 one of them again." 
 
 This charming authoress tells of a 
 young white man of quite peculiar 
 susceptibility, who met upon the shore 
 of the huge lake a dusky Chippewa 
 maiden and became so infatuated with 
 her that his parents sent him East 
 that the memory of her charms might 
 die in his mind. But neither the 
 Bowery nor Boston Common, nor 
 even the belles of Brooklyn, could 
 work the change, and the last glimpse 
 we get of him in the tale is as he 
 speeds away in a canoe with the to- 
 bacco-colored maiden to find a priest 
 to make him half — that is, to make 
 the twain a unit. 
 
 Mine was a different fortune when 
 I first touched the hem — if I may 
 borrow a woman's word — of that vast 
 sheet of water. Instead of a maiden 
 of the hue of a ham I found upon the 
 shore a little boy. I must have dis- 
 turbed him in a cause in which he felt 
 that two could not engage, for as I ap- 
 proached he stooped and, seizing a 
 pebble, flung it into the water. 
 
 " There ! " said he, *' That settles 
 it. I'll never see you again." 
 
 I engaged him in a moment's con- 
 versation and learned that this was 
 his very original method of bidding 
 adieu to the lake which had been re- 
 garded by him as a sort of companion 
 and playmate, for he had no brothers 
 and sisters, and of houses there were 
 none other than his own home in 
 many miles around. 
 
 "Do you like living here?" I in- 
 quired. 
 
 " Yes, I do," he said, quite posi- 
 tively ; " and Pop likes it, but Marm 
 says there ain't no sassiety here and 
 she wont stand it — and whatever 
 Marm says ' goes ' with Pop — and that 
 settles it." 
 
 I felt in my heart that the woman 
 was right ; indeed, in a moment the 
 boy took himself off and I, too, was 
 left without "sassiety." 
 
 I could feel the immensity of the 
 unsalted sea that reached away before 
 me. Since then I have come upon 
 Superior at different points, and every- 
 where that imperial quality has im- 
 pressed itself upon my mind. It is 
 not merely big in itself, it is big in all 
 its environments and details, in what 
 you might call all its features. In 
 few parts of the coast of the Atlantic 
 itself has Nature done such bold, 
 majestic work as she scatters lavishly 
 all around Lake Superior ; indeed, 
 south of New England the Atlantic 
 is dependent upon the imagination of 
 the beholder for the awe and respect 
 it inspires, since what might be called 
 its shore scenery is everywhere tame. 
 Very, very far from tame is the setting 
 of this grand bowl of clearest water 
 which our nation seems to be holding 
 above its head, as if in a perpetual 
 invitation for all the world to partake 
 of our bounty ; or, better yet, as if 
 holding up a goblet in offer of this 
 incessant toast to all mankind : 
 
 "Your Health." 
 
 Massive rocky walls, giant cliffs, 
 fierce battlemented rocks are the char- 
 acteristics of Superior's shores; mighty 
 fortifications against the still mightier 
 
DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &' ATLANTIC RAILWAF. 
 
 water, for everywhere the eternal 
 masonry of the land is torn and ragged. 
 
 The great lake is four hundred and 
 sixty miles long and one hundred and 
 seventy miles in width. We are told 
 that the earliest French missionaries 
 reported it shapen like a bow, with the 
 arch of the weapon on the Canadian 
 side, and the straight cord forming 
 our frontier. No one can improve 
 upon that description, especially apt 
 just here, because it is along that 
 straight cord that the Duluth, At- 
 lantic & South Shore Railway 
 makes its inviting way, and leads, or 
 rather takes, my kind readers and my- 
 self. 
 
 Well named " The Short Line." 
 
 This new bidder for the favors of 
 the traveling public is second to no 
 railroad in the world in any of the par- 
 ticulars that go to make the comfort, 
 the safety or the saving of time which 
 must ever be the excuses of corpora- 
 tions for building new lines and of the 
 public for patronizing them. If you 
 look upon a map of our country and 
 draw your pencil from Sault Ste. Marie 
 at one end of Lake Superior, to Duluth 
 at the other end, you will have marked 
 a straight line— a fact of vast import- 
 ance in considering the merits of a 
 railroad — and that straight line is the 
 route of this railway that invites us 
 to enjoy the beautiful region which it 
 has rescued from the wilderness and 
 is now offering to the people; the 
 people who are undertaking the 
 mighty task of nation building as well 
 as the people who seek health or rest 
 or Nature's loveliest phases. 
 
 We have all read of the manner in 
 which a mighty Tsar called for a map 
 of Russia, and laying a ruler across 
 it drew a pencil line straight from one 
 great city to another, saying " Build a 
 road on that route." We have no 
 Tsar here, but if we had it would be 
 scarcely possible for him to have 
 ordered a more direct highway across 
 the continent than this railway forms 
 a part of. 
 
 While the map is before you please 
 note the fact that if you continue 
 
 that line you have drawn beneath 
 Lake Superior, and push your pencil 
 across the continent, it will pass 
 through Fargo and Bismarck and Spo- 
 kane Falls and will dip into the Pacif- 
 ic Ocean at Seattle and Tacoma. For 
 you will have unconsciously drawn the 
 route of the Northern Pacific R.R. 
 Go back now and push the line east- 
 ward, and you will run it through 
 Montreal. You cannot parallel that 
 pencil mark anywhere else upon the 
 map and find anything like so straight 
 a route that railway men have previ- 
 ously marked upon the actual face 
 of our country with their enduring 
 lines of steel. The Duluth, South 
 Shore & Atlantic Railway was 
 needed to complete that perfect con- 
 summation of the traveler's ideal, to 
 connect the East and West, directly, 
 without those irreparable losses that 
 most railways are obliged to cause 
 their passengers by unavoidable in- 
 directness. 
 
 By way of Montreal, in the swift, 
 gliding palace coaches of the Cana- 
 dian Pacific Railway, the traveler from 
 Boston or New York will easily con- 
 vince himself that, though his cities 
 are off this great transcontinental high- 
 way, his loss of time in reaching it is 
 vastly less than he will suffer by taking 
 any other route. Though it is no part 
 of my allotted task to speak of any 
 other than the magnificent region 
 along the south shore of Lake Su- 
 perior, I cannot keep from my mind 
 the memory of the really wonderful 
 novelties and delight that I enjoyed 
 in making just that journey piece- 
 meal from ocean to ocean. In Can- 
 ada the way runs through a country 
 new born to the influences of civiliza- 
 tion, a region of woodland, lake and 
 stream, the reservoir whence the great 
 lakes draw their supply. Then the 
 majestic stretch south of Lake Su- 
 perior, incomparable in its scenic and 
 its sanitary qualities, new born also, 
 but born to the mighty and progress- 
 ive force of American enterprise, 
 and fairly throbbing with the activity 
 of its development. 
 
THE GREAT INLAND SEA. 
 
 The eastern man who journeys 
 through the west is often struck with 
 the unlikeness, if I may use the word, 
 of much of that great region to the 
 older parts of the country. He does 
 not draw a favorable comparison be- 
 tween the diversified, picturesque and 
 often romantic scenery of the thirteen 
 original colonies with the mighty 
 monotony of the plains or the bare 
 hugeness of the western mountains. 
 But on the south shore of Lake Su- 
 perior he is surprised to feel himself 
 at home. Be he how prejudiced he 
 may, he must realize that in this great 
 boudoir of dame Nature, there is both 
 the variety and the witchery of his 
 own familiar climes, blended often 
 with a boldness and majesty that it 
 will puzzle him to try to parallel nearer 
 the Atlantic region. 
 
 And so he passes on to the imperial 
 prairie that we were taught to look 
 upon as the Great American Desert. 
 By the way, how that desert used to 
 shrink in the geographies as year suc- 
 ceeded year ! It dried up like a pool 
 in the sun, it dwindled like the differ- 
 ence between the picture of the hip- 
 popotamus on the circus posters and 
 the real little pink beast in the tank 
 inside the tent. Finally it came to be 
 a sort of nettle rash that broke out 
 upon a part of Utah — and then it 
 vanished altogether. 
 
 And now the traveler will not find 
 the great prairie especially pretty to 
 look at from the car windows, but he 
 will obtain food for wonder -as he 
 comes upon town after town, sprawl- 
 
 ing thousands of wooden houses, upon 
 miles of the sea of grass. He will 
 come back with a slight misgiving 
 about that conceit he has felt as a 
 New Yorker, and will find himself 
 wondering how long it will be before 
 some of those mushrooms of the plains 
 will be demanding their rights to hold 
 future World's Fairs. But before he 
 does come back he will be whirled up 
 the Rockies and over their crests, and 
 will drop into the glory of sun and 
 verdure on the other side to find that 
 the straight line he has been pursuing 
 across the continent needs only just a 
 little bending down through the Willa- 
 mette Valley to terminate it at San 
 Francisco. 
 
 A wonderful line that ! A wonder- 
 ful journey ! 
 
 And no part of it is more wonder- 
 ful or worthy of description than the 
 stretch of nearly half a thousand miles 
 beside the gleaming waters of that 
 great inland sea upon which Long- 
 fellow causes the mystic Hiawatha to 
 embark and sail away into that non- 
 existence which the poet has trans- 
 formed into perpetual life. 
 
 " On the clear and luminous water 
 Launched his birch-canoe for sailing ; 
 From the pebbles of the margin 
 Shoved it forth into the water ; 
 Whispered to it ' Westward ! Westward ! ' 
 And with speed it darted forward, 
 And the evening sun descending 
 Set the clouds on fire with redness ; 
 Burned the broad sky like a prairie ; 
 Left upon the level water 
 One long track and trail of splendor, 
 Down whose stream as down a river. 
 Westward, Westward, Hiawatha 
 Sailed into the fiery sunset, 
 Sailed into the purple vapors. 
 Sailed into the dusk of evening." 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 The few who have traversed the 
 region bordering the '^ Great Unsalted 
 Sea" have usually begun the journey 
 at its outlet and ended it at the 
 "Zenith City" which Proctor Knott 
 laughed into celebrity. We will ask 
 those who travel with us to vary the 
 the itinerary, beginning at its extreme 
 western end. 
 
 St. Louis Bay, separated from the 
 lake itself by a narrow strip of land, 
 or more properly two, called Minne- 
 sota and Wisconsin points, forming a 
 natural harbor of many miles in ex- 
 tent, was first visited by civilized men 
 in 1632 as nearly as history records. 
 In 1 64 1 Fathers Daniel and Breboeuf 
 were invited to visit the lake but 
 came no further than Sault Ste. Marie. 
 The first white men to leave an actual 
 reference to this territory were Pierre 
 D' Esprit (Sieur Radisson) and Madard 
 Chanart (Sieur des Groselliers) m the 
 fall of 1661. In 1667 the Jesuit tather. 
 
 ■~i 
 
 the Hudson Bay Company's men were 
 driven away by the newly formed 
 Northwest Company — the great trading 
 company which was succeeded by 
 John Jacob Astor's American Com- 
 pany after the act of 181 6, after which 
 the Americans controlled everything 
 in this vicinity. The early settlements 
 were not where Duluth stands but on 
 the opposite shore. 
 
 DULUTH, named after the noted 
 Frenchman, Du Lhut, stands on the 
 north shore of the bay, at the extreme 
 western end of the great chain of 
 lakes, 1750 miles from Quebec and 
 1200 from Buffalo. Although in age 
 it should be almost a baby in arms, 
 it has nearly 50,000 inhabitants, 
 and is called the " Chicago of Lake 
 Superior." Its natural situation is 
 
 
 r-^'kr^o^'f<' 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 ^^t< 
 
 
 Claude Allouez, mentions his visit to 
 the head of the lake, accompanied by 
 several traders, and from this time 
 forward a rich traffic in furs was car- 
 ried on. 
 
 THE ZENITH CITY. 
 
 In 1679 Daniel Greysohlon Du Lhut 
 came to the head of the lake with a 
 band of coiireur des bois, making his 
 headquarters in this neighborhood 
 for several years. There is a conflict 
 of evidence as to whether Du Lhut or 
 the Hudson's Bay Company first es- 
 tablished the old trading post on the 
 south shore of the bay, but in 1787 
 
 picturesque in the extreme. From a 
 narrow beach abrupt hills rise to a 
 height of five hundred feet. Upon 
 the summit of the ridge thus formed 
 and on what must have been the for- 
 mer level of the lake is a natural road- 
 bed one hundred to two hundred and 
 fifty feet wide, which local enterprise 
 has transformed into Terrace Drive, 
 giving limitless views of the bay, the 
 majestic lake and the surrounding 
 country. 
 
 A few miles back of the hills are nu- 
 merous lakes and streams, and the lat- 
 ter follow their courses to the brow of 
 the hill. Thence they dash downward 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 through the heart of the city, leaping 
 and tumbhng over rocky beds in in- 
 numerable and beautiful waterfalls and 
 cascades, reaching the shore of the 
 lake at last there to mingle with its 
 waters their spent floods. On either 
 side of these streams are deep ravines, 
 some wild and rugged and others slop- 
 ing gently and thickly studded with 
 trees. Advantage is being taken of 
 these natural formations to establish a 
 system of parks which promises to be 
 the most picturesque and unique in 
 the world. 
 
 Westward from Duluth are the 
 DALLES OF THE ST. LOUIS, of 
 which another writer says: "Here 
 Nature is harsh, rugged and sombre, 
 tearing her way in a water course four 
 miles long with a descent of four hun- 
 dred feet. The banks are formed of 
 cold gray slate rocks, clad with an 
 ample growth of bleak pine, and 
 twisted, split and torn into the wild- 
 est shapes. Through the dismal 
 channel thus bordered the current 
 surges with terrific force, leaping 
 and eddying, and uttering a sav- 
 age roar that the neighboring hills 
 sullenly reverberate. Here and 
 there an immense boulder opposes, 
 and is nearly hidden by the seeth- 
 ing, hissing, foamy waves, which 
 — dance and struggle around and 
 over it, sometimes submerging it, and 
 then, exhausted, falling into a quieter 
 pace. Occasionally the spray leaps 
 over the banks, and forms a silver 
 thread of a rivulet, which trickles over 
 the stones until its little stream tum- 
 bles into the unsparing torrent again 
 and is lost. This continuous rapid of 
 four miles is a grand, deeply impressive 
 sight." 
 
 Duluth's attractions as a summer 
 resort have spread the city's fame far 
 and wide within the past two years. 
 With its delightful climate, where the 
 mercury kindly limits its parade be- 
 tween sixty and seventy-five degrees 
 during the hottest days of summer ; 
 with its cool evening breezes that 
 bring invigorating sleep, its remarka- 
 ble scenery of woodland, lake and 
 
DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &■ ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 hill ; with its eccentric water-courses 
 and its abundant sport — especially 
 for fishermen — the only wonder is 
 that its fame should have been so 
 tardy. The numerous small streams 
 along the north shore furnish the best 
 kind of trout fishing. The delicious 
 lake whitefish need no praises here, 
 and of late the fame of the planked 
 whitefish, as that dish is served in the 
 Spalding House, is co-extensive with 
 all knowledge of good living. Feath- 
 ered game is plentiful the year around, 
 and all along the St. Louis River, as 
 well as far back in the tangled wild- 
 wood, deer are still found in great 
 numbers, in spite of the advancing 
 sound of the woodman's axe and the 
 ravages of the sportsman's rifle. 
 
 Duluth's hotel accommodations are 
 not excelled by those of any city of 
 its size in the world. I will not speak 
 of the position of Duluth from a 
 commercial standpoint nor discuss the 
 claims of its citizens, supported by 
 abundant figures and logic, as to its 
 ultimate supremacy in the commerce 
 of the Northwest, but will leave it, 
 confident that it will not cease to 
 make its merits known and felt, while 
 the reader starts for the tour that has 
 been promised. 
 
 Leaving the Union Depot by the 
 Duluth, South Shore & Atlantic 
 Railway, a short run across the bay 
 brings us to WEST SUPERIOR, 
 the "Younger Twin," as it has been 
 nicknamed. This town, with " Old " 
 Superior, stands upon the south shore 
 of St. Louis Bay, with Superior Bay 
 on the east. The Superiors appear 
 to possess all the natural advantages 
 it is possible to bestow upon a settle- 
 ment as its birthright. With two riv- 
 ers, three bays, a superb land-locked 
 harbor seven miles in length, and a 
 level, gently sloping site at the end 
 of deep water navigation in the heart 
 of the continent, what better can 
 any youngster among our cities boast 
 or want ? West, south and east lies 
 a region watered by rivers and lakes 
 teeming with fish of all kinds, from 
 the "speckled beauties" to the thirty- 
 
 pound salmon trout, while the forests 
 remain plentifully supplied with deer. 
 The Indian hunters and trappers de- 
 rive a considerable income from the 
 sale of the skins of many kinds of 
 game. Many legends pertaining to 
 the history of the Indians dwelling in 
 this locality abound, and one that 1 
 have read is uncommonly interesting. 
 It appears that the Chippewas im- 
 agined the home of the Bad Manitouto 
 be at the gateway to Superior Bay. 
 Because the currents of the bay and 
 of the lake conflict just there and 
 keep the water constantly, though not 
 violently disturbed, they fancied that 
 the evil spirit kept house in or under 
 the water just at that spot. They 
 knew he made trouble everywhere, 
 and the unexplained disturbance in the 
 water was therefore a certain sign that 
 this was where he lived. In order to 
 satisfy the demon they never passed 
 that spot in their boats without drop- 
 ping their valuables into it as a peace 
 offering. By their valuables, I mean 
 tobacco, pipes and whatever edible 
 delicacies they had. How they 
 expected the Old Harry to smoke 
 soaking wet tobacco I don't know, 
 but he evidently was not the same 
 chap that we are familiar with, who 
 has positively no liking for water at all. 
 Besides our Bad Manitou rather 
 helps those who want to go to Canada. 
 At all events, when the Chippe- 
 was felt too poor to bribe the Evil 
 One, they used to swindle him by 
 carrying their boats over a portage at 
 a narrow strip of land that confines 
 one side of the bay. I suspect he was 
 the grand-father of our Davy Jones, 
 whom all the sailors fear, because the 
 real genuine proprietor of Hades cer- 
 tainly always spent most of his time 
 ashore — and does now. 
 
 the lovely climate. 
 
 The climate, not only here but 
 throughout the entire region we are 
 about to tra\erse, is most delightful. 
 Summer does not linger in the lap of 
 spring; in fact, in this realm of uncon- 
 taminated nature. Miss Summer 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 13 
 
 knows no such dubious practices. In- 
 stead, she bounds away from cross 
 and chilly old Winter, and with a sud- 
 denness that is surprising, and a love- 
 liness that is indescribable, she shakes 
 out her green tresses and decks herself 
 with flowers so as to more than make 
 amends for the length the world has 
 endured the season of snow and ice. 
 Nowhere, unless it be in England, is 
 the summer so luxuriant and opulent 
 as here. The air, too, is not only soft 
 and balmy, but it is spiced with the 
 tonic of the woods. Here twilight 
 lasts in summer until ten o'clock, with 
 soft luminous tints along the northern 
 horizon, beautiful beyond description, 
 but exercising a bothersome influence 
 upon children from the east who can 
 never be persuaded that it is bed-time 
 until the hours have gone more than 
 half-way toward midnight. 
 
 South of us, within two hours' drive, 
 are the falls of the Black River, the 
 Minnehaha of Wisconsin, one hundred 
 and fifty feet or more in height, and 
 just east of Superior Station we cross 
 the Nemadji River, a deep stream that 
 flows into Superior Bay. The name 
 was given by the Chippewas and sig- 
 nifies " left hand," meaning the river 
 at the left hand as one enters the bay 
 from the lake. Then continuing east- 
 ward, we come upon three famous 
 trout streams, the American, Poplar 
 and Middle Rivers. At Brule is 
 crossed the river of that name — a 
 French word applied to woodland that 
 has been burned over. The Brule is 
 not large but it is picturesque, restful 
 and famous as the best trouting stream 
 in Wisconsin. This little river offers 
 fine trout fishing for a distance of one 
 hundred and fifty miles, but a noted 
 St. Louis sportsman has pre-empted 
 twenty miles of it — as well as he 
 can — since he has a preserve of that 
 extent with the river roaring through 
 the centre of it. The country in 
 this section is undulating and densely 
 wooded, but through the thick foliage 
 we catch many glimpses of deep ra- 
 vines, quiet dells and trickling brook- 
 lets. 
 
 We have ridden forty-four miles 
 from Duluth where we meet with the 
 Iron River, another famous fishing 
 stream, and presently we skirt the 
 shores of Pike Lake, and cross 
 Pike River. At Mason, the junction 
 with the Chicago, St. Paul, Minne- 
 apolis & Omaha Railway, it is desir- 
 able to take a short trip to Ashland, 
 on Chequamegon Bay. Ashland is a 
 typical little city, as bustling as if it 
 had twice its population of 20,000 
 souls. Its splendid natural harbor is 
 all but entirely land-locked, and is 
 about seventeen miles long by seven 
 wide. '* The shores are extremely 
 picturesque, being varied by a series 
 of bold, jutting promontories, capped 
 by lofty trees. In many places the 
 banks are cut into curious and fantas- 
 tic forms by the action of the water 
 which has fashioned them into caves, 
 pillars and arches." 
 
 At Ashland several railroads centre, 
 and you see by the mills along the 
 shore and the great fleets of logs the 
 tugs are forever towing down the bay, 
 that there is plenty of material for 
 prosperity here. From the verandas 
 of the Hotel Chequamegon, magnifi- 
 cent views of forest and water 
 may be obtained. Delightful and well 
 kept grounds add to the natural attrac- 
 tions of the place, which offers 
 active pleasures in abundance. If 
 one wants a sail or a row on the bay 
 he will find any number of boats of 
 all degrees of capacity and stylishness 
 at the piers. There are boys there, 
 too, to furnish that *' stiff ash breeze " 
 which the old sailor once said a row- 
 boat has to have. Or he can join 
 some of the excursions going to Bay- 
 field or out among the Apostle Islands 
 on the natty little steamers that come 
 and go at all hours of the day. 
 
 Apostle Islands ! How the name 
 brings back thoughts of the mission- 
 ary pioneers. Father Marquette him- 
 self, "the central figure of the lake- 
 country history " spent some time 
 here on Madeline Island, one of the 
 twenty-four which form a lovely ar- 
 chipelago in beautiful contrast with 
 
14 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 the stern coast to the north and east. 
 An antiquated Roman Catholic chapel 
 still stands at La Pointe. It was built 
 of rough hewn logs, and is now used 
 as an adjunct of the newer structure. 
 The chief object of interest in the 
 room is a famous old picture that 
 hangs over the altar, and that is only 
 interesting because of a tradition to 
 the effect that it was brought from 
 France by the adventurous priests, 
 whose zeal led them to this wild region. 
 Some judges who fancy themselves 
 competent, have pronounced it a pro- 
 duct of some "old master," but it is 
 more reasonable to 
 suppose that it has ,„ ''ii'f''.'''^!'k:„H ,.^- . ^^ 
 
 v-,('.'i 
 
 .A*#* 
 
 ^N^#J-. 
 
 At Saxon, the junction with the Mil- 
 waukee, Lake Shore & Western Rail- 
 way, prepare to bid adieu to Wisconsin,, 
 for it is the last stopping-place we will 
 " make," as both sailors and railroad 
 men say in that picturesque State. For 
 nearly one hundred miles we have been 
 riding across its northern portion. 
 
 I cannot testify to the following 
 compliment to that region of scenic 
 wonders; it is the product of a braver 
 man's pan: "The northwestern quarter 
 of Wisconsin has, from time immemo- 
 rial, been the modest recipient of more 
 flattery from explorers, hunters, tourists 
 and health-seek- 
 
 '^-^^S:. „ ^T,v . ers than any 
 
 h!§f:-^ V. Other part of the 
 delightful North- 
 
 iAD-iJVER-iRlDCiE--" '^ 
 
 no merit unless it has procured it as 
 wine does, through age. Numberless 
 pleasant little excursions to interesting 
 and picturesque points may be taken 
 from Ashland, above all a visit to the 
 falls of the Bad River. 
 
 ADIEU ! LOVELY WISCONSIN. 
 
 Returning to Mason we continue 
 eastward on the main line of the Du- 
 LUTH, South Shore & Atlantic 
 Railway in its elegant and comfort- 
 able cars, and upon its level and solid 
 road-bed. At a distance of a mile is 
 crossed the Bad River, here coursing 
 through a deep ravine bordered by 
 dense woods. We look down rather 
 dizzily at the madcap stream, for the 
 bridge is sixty feet above the water, 
 but two miles farther east Vaughan's 
 Creek is spanned at a height of seventy- 
 five feet. 
 
 west. In the legends of the ' first 
 families ' (the native Indians), in the 
 traditions of the now departed pio- 
 neers, in the camp-fire stories of the 
 professional trappers and fishermen, in 
 the ingenious fancies of newspaper men 
 and in the more reliable (and often 
 tiresome) reports of government inves- 
 tigators, such as David Dale Owen 
 and others, the palm of superiority 
 has been accorded this mystic region 
 for its diversified beauty, its charming 
 lakes, stately forests, crystal streams, 
 towering rocks, mysterious caverns, 
 spray-wreathed cascades, fairy dells 
 and shadowy grottoes ; for the beauty 
 and healthfulness of its climate, for 
 the variety and excellence of fish and 
 game — in short, for everything that 
 attracts and charms the lover of the 
 beautiful in Nature." 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 15 
 
 Ten miles east of Saxon, where we 
 cross the Montreal River, we find our- 
 selves in Michigan, and candor wrests 
 from me the assurance that, in spite of 
 the above eulogy, Nature has put no 
 stamp upon Michigan that makes it 
 differ from its no lovelier neighbor. 
 We touch the soil of Michigan at 
 Montreal and then, five miles farther 
 on, alight at North Bessemer and take 
 a stage for a two-mile drive to Besse- 
 mer, in the heart of the Gogebic Iron 
 Range. Here, you will agree with me, 
 the poet and the pedant are likely to 
 find food for more than has ever been 
 or ever will be said of Wisconsin. In- 
 deed, I will contribute to the volume 
 myself, for here we enter that won- 
 drous Lake Superior mineral region, the 
 output from which has developed, in 
 a few years, to prodigious proportions. 
 For one hundred and fifty miles 
 eastward we traverse a territory that is 
 estimated to be more wealthy than any 
 other section of this great Union. It is 
 the Nation's treasure chest, brimful — 
 and I had almost said," wide open." In 
 truth it soon will be. Gold has been 
 found and mines are being worked for 
 ores richer than were ever known in 
 California. Leads of silver have been 
 traced, the copper production reaches 
 millions annually, while in 1889, 
 6,447,972 tons of iron ore were shipped 
 from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. 
 
 At Abitosse the western branch of 
 the Black River is added to the list of 
 streams we have seen in this wonder- 
 fully watered region, and in five miles 
 Thomaston, the headquarters of the 
 Western Division of the Railway, is 
 reached. 
 
 We have been gradually climbing, 
 climbing up into higher altitudes ever 
 since we left Duluth, until at Thomas- 
 ton, we have ascended seven hundred 
 and fifty feet above Lake Superior. 
 The country continues thickly clothed 
 with forest, lumbering camps and cen- 
 tres are noted along the line, and after 
 a gradual descent we skirt the shores 
 of Lake Gogebic. Close to the sta- 
 tion of the same name good camping 
 grounds are found, but a boat ride 
 
 of fifteen miles brings a tourist to the 
 Gogebic House and Cottages, where 
 accommodations are afforded for more 
 than one hundred guests. Gogebic 
 Lake is universally conceded to fur- 
 nish the best black bass fishing in the 
 country. Its supremacy in this re- 
 spect has been vouched for by veteran 
 sportsmen who rank as best authorities 
 from all parts of the United States. 
 A half-dozen trout streams empty into 
 the lake, and during early spring 
 brook trout may be caught in its 
 waters. They abound at all seasons 
 in the tributary streams. There is a 
 steam yacht under control of the hotel 
 management, as well as a large fleet of 
 sailing and fishing boats which can be 
 obtained at reasonable rates, with or 
 without guides. 
 
 can there be purer air? 
 
 Aside from its merits as a resort for 
 sportsmen and the general tourist, the 
 vicinity of the Gogebic Lake pos- 
 sesses advantages as a sanitarium,, 
 which have given it a well deserved 
 and national reputation. Seven hun- 
 dred feet above Lake Superior, and yet 
 only twelve miles from that vast body 
 of fresh water, the purity of the atmos- 
 phere can be imagined by the reader 
 — at a distance — can be tested by the 
 tourist on the spot. Add to this the 
 fact that the beautiful resort is in the 
 heart of great pine and hard wood 
 forests. Not only do they further purify 
 the atmosphere, but they temper the 
 air to a quality remarkably soft and 
 salubrious. These are advantages 
 such as are enjoyed by few other re- 
 gions accessible by railway, no matter 
 how much has been said in their be- 
 half. The climatic consequences of 
 the peculiar position of Gogebic Lake. 
 are such as to recommend the region 
 highly to all sufferers from pulmonary- 
 ailments, and sufferers from hay fever 
 or malaria will also find it especially 
 curative. Hay fever is not only un- 
 known here, but many afflicted with 
 that complaint have been entirely cured 
 within twenty-four to forty-eight hours 
 after their arrival at Gogebic Lake. 
 
^LOXG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 17 
 
 Judge Banta writes of Gogebic Lake 
 in the January (1889) American 
 Angler: "When I reached my goal 
 I was not sorry that I had made the 
 journey. Gogebic Lake has been too 
 often written about in the sportsmen's 
 papers for me to consume time and 
 space in any description of it in this 
 place. It is enough to say that the 
 new line of the Duluth, South 
 Shore & Atlantic Railway skirts 
 the shore along the north end for a 
 distance of four miles. I went to the 
 Gogebic for the purpose of spending 
 
 made me forget the purpose of my 
 coming ! " 
 
 After skirting the lake shore for 
 four miles with this imaginary party 
 of tourists in my charge (tourists who 
 never ask foolish questions, by the 
 way) we cross the Gogebic River and 
 hurry forward through a forest coun- 
 try, unbroken except by the openings 
 made here and there by the axe of the 
 homesteader or woodman. Where 
 mills have been established, fair hotel 
 accommodations may be obtained, 
 but the country is rugged and wild. 
 
 my time fishing, but somehow 1 
 changed my mind after I got there. 
 I saw many persons go out upon the 
 beautiful Gogebic waters, and it 
 seemed so easy for them to hook and 
 haul in the bass that my desire to 
 emulate them eluded me. It was so 
 much pleasanter to sit in the door of 
 the tent and look at the lake. Can I 
 ever forget the dreamy freshness of 
 those days on Gogebic Lake ? The 
 green woods, the clear waters, the 
 crisp balsam-laden breeze, how charm- 
 ing they were and how surely they 
 
 At EwEN we shoot out upon a bridge 
 nearly one hundred feet above a 
 beautiful stream and seem poised, as 
 a swallow, in mid-air. The stream is 
 the Ontonagon River. The spray 
 from the falls glistens like diamonds 
 in the sunlight, and the watery veil 
 screens, as with a web of open lace, 
 the features of the rocky ledge behind 
 it. It is worthy anyone's leisure 
 to stop here and get the views of this 
 cataract that are obtainable. It is 
 toilsome work to get io the bottom 
 of the falls, but from there is gotten 
 
[8 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE 6f ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 the best view of them. The railroad 
 bridge you have left above you has 
 become a mere thread in the air. 
 Looking down the stream you see the 
 falls in all their majesty and beauty. 
 
 A sportsman's paradise. 
 
 A writer mentioned previously thus 
 describes some of his experiences in 
 this sportsman's paradise in a later 
 number of the A ng-/er: " I had man- 
 aged to pass over the entire ninety 
 miles between Gogebic and Nestoria 
 by daylight, and had thus been enabled 
 to get a view of the country. I had 
 seen but little game, but from what 
 I heard, and especially from the signs 
 seen, I knew that I was in a country 
 abounding in both deer and bear. 
 
 " But it was not game that I was 
 after. It was trout, and I think I 
 have written enough to show that 
 
 ■u,»V^/. s /.i\ /. s /.», /A /.\ /.\ /.\ /l\ ,A/»^ ./ V 
 
 in a space of little over twenty miles, 
 I had found a region that would sat- 
 isfy the most exacting. I think it 
 quite likely that if I could keep the 
 location of this region secret I would 
 do so, but as a railroad runs through it 
 that cannot be done, so I fling the 
 news broadcast. 
 
 " I fished four streams within the 
 twenty-two miles, between the middle 
 branch of the Ontonagon and Perch 
 River, and I think I got all of any 
 consequence the road crosses; but I 
 heard of other streams, both to the 
 north and south of the road and ac- 
 cessible from it, where trout fishing is 
 said to be equally as good as in the 
 streams I tested. 
 
 " The country is a wilderness, and 
 will be to all intents and purposes for 
 a few years yet. It is an uneven 
 country, its surface being cut up by 
 small streams and occasional swamps. 
 It is a country of thick 
 forests, and dense thickets 
 frequently occur. But the 
 camping ground is good. 
 On the Middle Branch, on 
 Spring Creek, on the East 
 Branch, on Perch River, 
 are excellent camp sites, 
 with good water close at 
 
 At SiDNAW (for- 
 merly Hill Creek) 
 connection is made 
 with the Ontonagon 
 Division of the Mil- 
 waukee & Northern 
 R.R leading to the 
 city for which this 
 section of the 
 road was named. 
 Onto nagon is 
 the oldest city on 
 Lake Superior, 
 
 QNTONACON- FALLS 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 19 
 
 but until within a year possessed no 
 rail communication with the world at 
 large. In the Chippewa tongue nogon 
 signifies cup or dish. The word was 
 common to all the Algonquin tribes 
 in one form or another, and was used 
 by them to mean a cup or bowl, also 
 the head, because of the bowl-like 
 shape of the skull. 
 
 A short distance east of Sidnaw we 
 cross the Perch River, which flows 
 fifty feet below. We are now eight 
 hundred feet above Lake Superior, 
 and at Nestoria, ten miles farther, 
 the elevation reaches 1050 feet. This 
 is the highest station on the main 
 line. Again we make a digression, 
 taking the branch line to Houghton. 
 The train climbs higher and 
 higher until at Summit Sta- 
 tion we reach an altitud( ■^ 
 1 1 70 feet above Lake 
 Superior and nearly 
 1800 above tide 
 water, having 
 crossed the Stur- 
 geon River nine 
 times during the 
 ascent. The de- 
 scent from this ^^^ 
 point is rapid, the ^ 
 grade in some parts ^ 
 being one hundred 
 and seventy feet to 
 the mile, and at 
 L'Anse ten miles 
 north, at the head 
 of Keweenaw Bay, 
 we are only one 
 hundred feet above 
 the Lake, having 
 bridged the Fall 
 River eleven times. 
 L'Anse is on the 
 site of a Jesuit mis- 
 sion, and is now a 
 lumber centre, but 
 Baraga five miles 
 farther bids fair to 
 rival it in this 
 branch of com- 
 merce. M any 
 lovely drives may 
 be taken in this 
 
 section along the shores of the bay 
 and through the forests bordering the 
 streams. Between Baraga and Hough- 
 ton we cross many streams, in all of 
 which trout are plentiful, while pick- 
 erel, wall-eyed pike and perch may 
 be found in the deep and sluggish 
 ponds or lakes. 
 
 The Otto River, reached conven- 
 iently from Houghton, is the only 
 stream in the Upper Peninsula of 
 Michigan in which grayling — genuine 
 Thymallus tricolor — are found. A 
 writer in Outing says *' that a vis- 
 itor from a lower latitude will be im- 
 pressed with the silence he finds 
 reigning amid these deep woods." 
 Doubtless, he will see abundant evi- 
 dences of the 
 
 presence of 
 animal life, 
 
 ]^LL6.'-' 
 
 • Nee\p LAr\5e 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 but it is a life hiding in the shadows. 
 Even the birds are songless and when 
 surprised, as they often are, flit noise- 
 lessly out of view. But along the val- 
 leys of the streams where the sunlight 
 comes in, and all the conditions are 
 favorable to the sustaining of animal 
 life, one may expect to find it abound- 
 ing. It was so along the valley of the 
 Otter. 
 
 " This green and sun-streaked glade was rife 
 With sights and sounds of forest life." 
 
 " What a covert for wild beasts the 
 brushy thickets near the stream and 
 the dark woods beyond did present. 
 Side by side in moist places were to 
 be seen the tracks of the deer, and of 
 their mortal enemies, the gray wolves. 
 Twice we heard the '' long drawn howl' 
 of the night prowlers, and one day 
 as I stooped to drink at a spring, while 
 wandering in the forest, I noticed in 
 the soft earth beneath me the foot- 
 print of Lupus. He had lajDped there 
 not many hours before. Two or three 
 places we saw where bruin had left 
 the print of his moccasin, but neither 
 wolf nor bear gladdened our sight the 
 voyage through. One deer, and one 
 only we saw, and that was one evening 
 as the shadows were dropping down, 
 when one carelessly ran bang up 
 against our camping ground." 
 
 Houghton and Hancock, "the 
 Twin Cities of the Gitchie Gummee," 
 are located on opposite sides of Port- 
 age Lake, which separates Keweenaw 
 Point from the mainland. The chan- 
 nel of Portage Lake is deep enough 
 to admit the passage of the largest ves- 
 sels ; and as these cities are in the 
 heart of the greatest copper region in 
 
 the world, they are the ports from 
 which that product is shipped. " Ke- 
 weenaw " signifies a portage, and this 
 copper arm has a history, for which 
 credit should be given to Picturesque 
 America, wherein I read it. 
 
 " Centuries ago," reads the tale, " its 
 hills were mined, and the first white 
 explorers found the ancient works and 
 tools, and wondered over them ; when 
 they were tired of wondering they 
 ascribed them to the extinct Mound- 
 builders, whoever they were, a most 
 convenient race, who come in for all 
 the riddles of the western country, 
 and never rise from their graves to 
 say to us, ' No.' The Chippewas 
 of Superior were full of supersti- 
 tious fear regarding Keweenaw Point ; 
 they believed that a demon resided 
 there, and they dared not visit his 
 domain to procure copper without first 
 propitiating him with rites and gifts ; 
 then trembling and in silence, they 
 lighted fires around some exposed 
 mass of the metal, and, when it was 
 softened, they hastily cut off a small 
 quantity and fled to their canoes with- 
 out looking back. So strong was their 
 dread that for years the explorers were 
 unable to obtain from them informa- 
 tion about the Point, neither would 
 they act as guides, although tempting 
 bribes were offered. Then came the 
 geologists, unwilling to believe that 
 native copper existed in such a locality, 
 but forced to concede the fact when 
 solid masses of five hundred tons con- 
 fronted them. Gradually they found 
 that this long point held the greatest 
 copper mines in the world, those of 
 the Ural Mountains in Russia sinking 
 
 -fifi^^T^'*-' 
 
 
DULUTH. SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAHAVAY. 
 
 into insignificance in comparison with 
 them ; and upon this discovery spec- 
 ulation started up, and fortunes were 
 made and lost in the eastern cities in 
 copper stock by men who barely knew 
 
 only does it supply the whole country 
 but its wealth is even sent across the 
 ocean to aid the old world. On 
 Keweenaw are several lakes, among 
 them the lovely Lac-la-Belle of the 
 
 where Keweenaw was, as they tossed 
 it like a football from one to another, 
 and jabbered off its Indian name with 
 easy fluency. Throughout this excite- 
 ment and after it died away, however, 
 the Point kept steadily producing its 
 copper from the hills until now not 
 
 voyageuj's, and the north shore of the 
 Point is bold with beautiful rock 
 harbors." 
 
 No industry in the Lake Superior 
 region yields such returns for the 
 money invested as do the copper 
 mines. 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 23 
 
 A CITY UNDER THE GROUND. 
 
 In nearly all other mines copper is 
 found as an ore in the form of red 
 oxide or of sulphide of iron, as yellow 
 copper ore, also called copper pyrites. 
 These ores need to be reduced by a 
 complex and highly expensive process. 
 On Keweenaw the native copper is 
 sometimes found in masses, but more 
 frequently it takes the form of con- 
 glomerates, that is, native copper 
 mixed with rock. As there is no re- 
 ducing of ore the cost of producing 
 commercial copper from this is much 
 less here than elsewhere. Through 
 that part of Keweenaw Point in which 
 the Calumet and Hecla mine is located, 
 there runs a system of rocks known 
 to geologists as the " copper-bearing 
 series " but which the miners call the 
 " Copper Mineral Range." It is a 
 conglomerate rock, varying from ten 
 to fifteen feet in thickness, reaching 
 to an unknown depth into the earth 
 and streaked and veined for more 
 than a mile of its length with metallic 
 copper, pure enough to be stamped 
 into pennies. At this mine a depth of 
 3000 feet, measuring on a slope of 
 forty degrees, has been reached. The 
 great compound engine of 3000 horse- 
 power (the largest in the world, and 
 strong enough to turn the two Corliss 
 engines of the Centennial Exposition 
 backward, and to do their work in 
 addition) is capable of supplying 
 power until a depth of 4000 feet has 
 been reached. 
 
 The mine itself resembles a section 
 of a rectangular city and has eight 
 parallel main avenues, each with its 
 railroad, reaching nearly a mile into 
 the earth, and intersected by about 
 thirty horizontal streets a mile in 
 length. ., It has no parallel in the his- 
 tory of mining enterprises, and has 
 built up a vast industry employing 
 more than 3000 men, and supporting 
 two flourishing villages with a popula- 
 tion of more than 10,000. 
 
 Douglas Falls, near Houghton, 
 resemble, in miniature, the celebrated 
 Bridal Veil Falls of the Yosemite 
 
 Valley ; and, by the way, the Douglas 
 House at Houghton, and the North- 
 western Hotel at Hancock, are both 
 excellent hostelries. 
 
 ALONG THE MARQUETTE RANGE. 
 
 From Nestoria the main line trav- 
 erses the opulent iron-mining section 
 known as the Marquette Range. For 
 a long distance we follow Lake Michi- 
 gamme, a beautiful sheet, seven miles- 
 long by three miles wide. It is dotted 
 with many picturesque islands, and its 
 wooded shores are abrupt and rugged 
 in outline. Stopping a moment at 
 Michigamme, which boasts one of the 
 best kept and most comfortable hotels 
 in the Upper Peninsula, a run of seven 
 miles brings us to Champion, the junc- 
 tion with the main line of the Mil- 
 waukee & Northern Railroad, with 
 which we can connect for Milwaukee, 
 Chicago and intermediate points. At 
 Humboldt a branch leads to Repub- 
 lic and the mine of the same name. 
 Ten miles beyond we reach Ishpem- 
 ING, the largest city in the Marquette 
 Range, with a population of about 
 15,000. Many delightful drives may be 
 taken in this vicinity. The roads are 
 hard and smooth, having been built by 
 the mining companies for hauling ore, 
 and no less than nine lakes and ponds 
 may be visited within a radius of a 
 dozen miles. Negaunee, three miles 
 farther east, has a population of 10,- 
 000, the mining industry supplying 
 employment to large numbers. Here 
 connection is made with the Chicago 
 & Northwestern Railway for Escanaba, 
 Milwaukee and Chicago. Days could 
 be profitably spent around Ishpeming 
 and Negaunee in visiting the iron and 
 gold mines, many of which are " open 
 pit " mines in which the operations 
 may be viewed from the mouth of the 
 pit. If any reader has let his curiosity 
 drag him into one of the other sort, 
 with its dripping walls and pitfalls and 
 smoking lamps, he will appreciate all 
 the beauties of seeing mining without 
 going into the earth's bowels to do it. 
 
 Since leaving Nestoria the road has 
 been gradually descending again. We 
 
/•-A 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 25 
 
 get but a glance at Eagle Mills, a 
 hustling, prosperous lumber town, and 
 then we scamper on toward Mar- 
 quette, the " Queen City of Lake 
 Superior," and then we are at the 
 water's level. Marquette is by all 
 odds the best built, wealthiest and 
 most beautiful city on the south shore 
 of Lake Superior. Like the Biblical 
 ideal, it is " set upon a hill," or, rather, 
 on high ground, ensuring perfect 
 drainage, and overlooking Iron Bay, 
 a veritable American edition of the 
 Bay of Naples, which runs in ten 
 miles from the great lake. The streets 
 are electric lighted, broad, well paved, 
 and usually bordered with great slabs 
 of serpentine marble or redstone, as 
 bright and clean as the best boulevards 
 in America. Its business blocks are 
 fine, large and substantial. A new 
 opera house block is now being con- 
 structed at a cost of $75,000, giving 
 the city the finest amusement hall east 
 of Duluth and north of Milwaukee. 
 The business portion of the town is 
 in the "hollow," the residences on the 
 circling hillsides. A correspondent 
 of a New York evening paper says : 
 ^' I have never seen a more desirable 
 place for a summer home than Ridge 
 Street. It is laid out on a bluff, per- 
 haps two hundred feet above the lake, 
 shaded with double rows of young ma- 
 ples, and lined with cottages of modern 
 architecture, interspersed with solid 
 stone mansions and square old-fash- 
 ioned country seats. Fountains play 
 on the lawns ; there are conservato- 
 ries filled with rare flowers ; there are 
 elegant interiors, and yet a mile away is 
 the original wilderness, with bear, deer 
 and the great northern wolf in undis- 
 puted possession. The highest civiliza- 
 tion is in strange juxtaposition with the 
 fiercest wildness. The town has a high 
 school, housed in alarge, well-appointed 
 brownstone building, with primary, 
 grammar and high school departments, 
 efficiently conducted ; elegant stone 
 churches, a musical association, two 
 public libraries, several excellent hotels, 
 and a ladies' literary club which circu- 
 lates the latest books and magazines." 
 
 What the correspondent really wrote 
 was that the ladies circulate " the 
 latest books and magazines and several 
 excellent hotels." There is more in that 
 than appears at first sight. I know 
 several hotels whose owners would like 
 to have them "circulate." But those 
 hotels are not in Marquette. 
 
 Marquette has 10,000 population, 
 but if population bores you there re- 
 main long walks into the forest, strolls 
 by the lakeside, lovely rides and 
 periodical excursions to the trout 
 streams, magnificently stocked, which 
 may be reached anywhere in the 
 woods by a tramp of from two to ten 
 miles. 
 
 " Some forty-five years ago a party 
 of surveyors running the west line of 
 township 47, range 26, observed 
 strange variations in the magnetic 
 needle, and thereby discovered rich 
 deposits of the richest hematite and 
 magnetic ores. Capitalists from Cleve- 
 land and elsewhere came in, opened 
 the mines, built two railroads to Mar- 
 quette, the nearest port,and began ship- 
 ping the ore to Cleveland for smelt- 
 ing." There are now seventy-three 
 mines on the Marquette range which 
 extends thirty miles inland. From forty 
 of these mines 2,634,817 gross tons 
 were shipped in 1889, while the output 
 for 1890 promises to reach the enor- 
 mous quantity of 4,000,000 tons. Four 
 large ore docks, reaching out into the 
 bay from 1000 to 1600 feet and forty- 
 seven f«^et above the lake, have been 
 constructed to facilitate the handling 
 of this great traffic. These docks are 
 the scene of intense activity day and 
 night during the season of navigation. 
 Ambitious little switching engines take 
 the ore trains from the yards, whither 
 they come from the mines, and push 
 them out on the wharves. There 
 red-shirted "trimmers" Warm on 
 them, knock out the pins that hold 
 the bottom of each car in place, and 
 the twenty-ton loads drop into the 
 ' ' pocket " in the wharf. These pockets 
 hold from ninety to one hundred and 
 fifty tons. At the bottom of each 
 pocket is a hinged chide or spout 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 n 
 
 twenty feet long, which is lowered au- 
 tomatically into the hold of a vessel 
 wharfed alongside; simultaneously the 
 door of the pocket rises and the red 
 or blue ore is precipitated into the hold 
 below„ Vessels of 3000 tons may thus 
 be loaded in three hours. 
 
 The drives from Marquette to Har- 
 vey, four miles, to Mount Mesnard 
 two and one-half miles, to CoUinsville 
 four miles, and around Presque Isle, 
 eight miles, are all delightful. 
 
 Presque Isle is the name of a high 
 headland two miles north of Mar- 
 quette. It was deeded to the City by 
 
 or their outlet, the St. Lawrence! 
 And yet the water's purity seems 
 greatest in Lake Superior. A tea- 
 spoon lying on the bottom at a depth 
 of twenty feet appears its own size ; 
 it is in reality magnified, as at that dis- 
 tance it would look smaller through 
 the atmosphere. 
 
 But for the improvements named 
 Presque Isle is almost its primeval self 
 as the Indian knew it. Its shores are 
 rugged, sandstone cliffs, broken here 
 and there by the waves into fancifully 
 
 '{ i^^f^^TTE 
 
 FUOM LIChT HOUSE Kclr- 
 
 the Federal Government for a park, 
 and is reached by a good macadam- 
 ized road, built along the beach and 
 encircling the point. In constructing 
 these roads through the forests of 
 noble trees with which the headland 
 is covered, barely timber enough has 
 been cut away to allow carriages to pass 
 each other. On the warmest of sum- 
 mer days one may drive there without 
 being in the least annoyed by the sun's 
 rays and without ever losing the grand 
 view of the apparently limitless ex- 
 panse of the deep blue Avaters of Su- 
 perior. The water appears many 
 shades darker than the azure of the 
 sky, yet so transparent that one may 
 detect the smallest objects in twenty 
 feet of water. In this respect the 
 famous crystallized water of Lake 
 George is excelled. How wonderful 
 it is that nothing sullies this enormous 
 mass of fresh water in any of the lakes 
 
 •vy_\"%>*S«.' 
 
 formed caverns, pillars and arches., 
 The strata are. nearly horizontal, and 
 the veins of different colored minerals 
 make a singularly striking appearance. 
 It interested Agassiz immensely whea 
 he visited it a few years before his 
 death. 
 
 This spot was once the site of a 
 flourishing Indian village of the Chip- 
 pewa tribe, and as these Chippewas 
 were far removed from their enemies 
 the Dakotas, many of the young 
 braves had never drawn bow or toma- 
 hawk in combat. On this account 
 they were tantalized and called squaws 
 by their brethren on the frontier. 
 After enduring this a long time a war 
 party was organized to wash away 
 with blood, these imputations of cow- 
 ardice. Before setting out in search 
 of their enemies, the party, thirteen 
 in number, appointed a young man as- 
 runner to accompany them, watch the 
 
DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE 6f ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 result, and in the event of their de- 
 struction, to hasten back with the tid- 
 ings. They soon fell in with an enemy 
 four times their number. Selecting 
 their ground and directing the runner 
 to take a position from which he could 
 see the battle, they made their onset. 
 They killed twice their own number 
 and then retreated to a place of en- 
 trenchment. Enraged at the loss, the 
 enemy pursued, fell upon, and amidst 
 great carnage, slew them all. The 
 young Indian runner was seen by 
 Governor Cass soon after his return, 
 and the Governor listened with much 
 interest as he recounted the inci- 
 dents of the thrilling adventure and 
 chanted tiis requiem 
 song in eulogy of the 
 \- , fallen. 
 
 " Would that Dead River bore a 
 name less grim, for some of my pleas- 
 antest outings have been upon its 
 bank." So writes a friend of the 
 author. " One day my friend Phil, 
 invited me out trout fishing on its 
 head waters. Our outfit comprised 
 two lance-wood poles with reels, half 
 a dozen extra hooks for each, earth- 
 worms for bait, a preparation of tar, 
 carbolic acid and sweet oil for smear- 
 ing the face as a sap to the mosqui- 
 toes, a basket for the "catch," stout, 
 hob-nailed shoes, and the oldest suit 
 of clothes our wardrobes could furnish. 
 After a ride of four miles through the 
 pine and poplar forest, we tied our 
 horses to the -; 
 fence of a farm 
 
 m P"C5ei£j?l'-- 
 
.3° 
 
 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f A TZ ANTIC RAIL WAV. 
 
 on a bluff overlooking the stream. 
 Here we had a pretty woodland scene. 
 The river valley for a mile had been 
 cleared and was green with clover 
 and wheat fields, while on the bluffs, 
 on either side, the primeval forest 
 still stood gaunt and sombre. We 
 passed up the right bank, and at last 
 where the river impinged sharply on 
 bold bluffs, we climbed the elevation 
 and struck into the dense forest. A 
 perfect tangle it was. Footprints of 
 deer were as common here and in the 
 open as sheep tracks in a New Eng- 
 land pasture, and now and then a broad 
 trail through the reeds marked the 
 recent passage of a bear. We were 
 crossing a deep ravine by a fallen tree, 
 and below was as dense a thicket as 
 eye ever peered into. Out of this as 
 we crossed came a deep growl, a per- 
 fect symbol of ferocity. We agreed 
 that we had no call to explore that 
 thicket, and pushed on, coming out 
 on the river perhaps half a mile above. 
 The roar of the water-fall sounded 
 deep in the forest, and the water 
 flowed swiftly though it was easily 
 fordable. Here we rested, watching 
 the gurgling water and anon casting a 
 sprig into the stream to watch its 
 bright verdure form a fitting wreath 
 to the lily-like foam as they together 
 floated rapidly down the amber-hued 
 stream. 
 
 " Presently we began fishing. The 
 method is to wade down stream in 
 water reaching from your knees to 
 your waist, cast, and let your hook 
 run down with the stream. Phil, 
 crossed over and took the opposite 
 bank. Presently I hear a splash on 
 his side, his reel whirrs, then he winds 
 in, and in due time slips a pound trout 
 in his basket. The next is mine, then 
 he strikes and loses one. So we go 
 down stream meeting with varied 
 luck, until when near the clearing, we 
 compare baskets, and find that Phil, 
 has ten fish and I twenty. This was 
 explainable, as Phil, had broken his 
 rod and left four hooks to beautify 
 the branches of the trees near the 
 bank." 
 
 The new electric lighting power 
 dam near the CoUinsville mill, which 
 the City Fathers of Marquette have 
 constructed, is a typical example of 
 the enterprise which in this part of 
 the West leads much smaller places to 
 have "whatever's going," be it elec- 
 tricity or La Grippe. Marquette has 
 purchased the power privileges and 
 put up a dam at an expense of $30,000, 
 and thus obtains the power for the 
 electric lighting system put in opera- 
 tion during the past year. The Col- 
 linsville mill, now fast falling into 
 decay, is said to be the oldest iron 
 furnace in the State, and stands on 
 one of the most picturesque spots of 
 the many that beautify Dead River. 
 
 From Mount Mesnard we have an 
 extended view of the lake and sur- 
 rounding territory. Immediately be- 
 low and to the north lies the city, its 
 streets terraced one above another on 
 the rising hillsides. Iron Bay sweeps 
 its ten-mile circle to the very base of 
 the Mount. Farther north Presque 
 Isle stands out in j^icturesque bold- 
 ness, and beyond, the "Gitchie 
 Gumme" extends until the deep blue 
 of its waters is lost in the opalescent 
 paleness of the horizon. East, south 
 and west hill, valley and silvery 
 stream glorify the entrancing scene. 
 
 " Down on the wharf are two small 
 frame buildings, beside which are 
 huge reels on which nets are wound. 
 The interiors of the buildings, laden 
 with nets and hooks and lines, tarred 
 rope, barrels of salt, ice boxes, oars, 
 boats and barrels of salted fish send 
 forth a fishy and tarry odor quite de- 
 lightful to the landsman. Every 
 afternoon at about four o'clock two 
 busy little tugs come fuming and 
 puffing up the harbor and are made 
 fast abreast these fish-houses. The 
 forward hatch is thrown off, and the 
 " catch " of the morning is displayed, 
 hundreds of gleaming whitefish, long 
 piratical-looking lake trout, silvery 
 herring, and now and then a stur- 
 geon just to remind us that we are in 
 Hiawatha's land. The Lake Supe- 
 rior whitefish are perhaps the most 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 31 
 
 delicious scaled creatures known to 
 the epicure. They are caught weigh- 
 ing from three to thirty pounds. The 
 extent of the catch may be computed 
 from the fact that one firm in Mar- 
 quette shipped last summer more than 
 a hundred tons of fresh fish, yet the 
 supply does not seem to diminish." 
 
 I am glad to be able to give an ac- 
 count of a day on one of these tugs 
 by a clever and observing writer. All 
 who love the water will enjoy it ; 
 and yet the information it con 
 tains is its more notable feature 
 
 " The tug left between 
 dawn and sunrise. The 
 east was all aglow, and 
 the west dark by 
 contrast as we put 
 out into the lake 
 There wa« 
 
 unconstrained and con- 
 fidential. Wonderful 
 lore of the lake we 
 pick up here on / 
 the water from /' 
 the sailors 
 and fish- 
 
 "^Thi-s father 
 '■^ of lakes, we 
 learn, has his 
 tides, pulsations and heart-beats. 
 We ourselves observe in our 
 evening walks along 
 the curving 
 ''f^\ beach that 
 
 
 twenty-mile 
 run to be 
 made before 
 reaching 
 the first 
 'pound' to 
 be ' lifted,' 
 and we 
 found a 
 warm cor- 
 ner in the 
 pilot-house, 
 
 and with a cigar inveigled the skipper 
 into a chat that in time became 
 
 the waters have sometimes risen, 
 sometimes receded. There are three 
 regular movements of the water, old 
 watermen say, a daily rise and fall, an 
 annual, and a cyclical, the latter oc- 
 curring about once in twenty years. 
 
DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 In early winter the lake is covered 
 with fogs, and the constant evapora- 
 tion so drains its waters that they are 
 much lower in spring than in autumn, 
 but when the snow melts and the 
 rivers pour in their floods, the water 
 rises, attaining the maximum about 
 the 25th of June. Then there is a 
 constant and permanent recession of 
 the waters, insomuch that in time 
 much that is now covered by the lake 
 will be drv land. In the plain between 
 Marquette and the lake on the norths 
 may be seen several distinct ridges, 
 now far inland, which once formed the 
 shores of the lake. The coldness of 
 the lacustrine waters we learn is 
 another phenomenon. In winter the 
 mean temperature of Lake Superior is 
 thirty-six degrees, in summer forty, a 
 difference of only four degrees. This 
 water, too, is chemically pure, so that 
 all the good people of Marquette had 
 to do to get pure city water was to run 
 a crib out into the lake and pump the 
 water into the reservoir. 
 
 '* By and by the boat approaches 
 the first pound. The square enclosure 
 forming the pound is set in deep water, 
 and a Hne of netting leads from the 
 shore or shoal water out to it. The 
 men taking the small skiff row inside 
 the pound and proceed to lift the net. 
 The water foams and boils as the latter 
 approaches the surface and dark backs 
 and fins and gleaming sides flash in the 
 foam. The net is pursed, then lifted 
 bodily, and the contents — a fine as- 
 sortment of lake beauties — trout, 
 whitefish, muskallonge, suckers and a 
 sturgeon, are emptied into the boat. 
 As we bowl along to the next pound, 
 the skipper is led to descant on the 
 habits and characteristics of the lake 
 fish." 
 
 " The chief food fish of the lakes, 
 both in quantity and quality is the 
 whitefish. 
 
 " He has his preferences and idio- 
 syncrasies which the fishermen, to en- 
 snare him successfully, must carefully 
 study. His food is chiefly snails, slugs 
 and limpets attached to the rocks, so 
 that a rocky bottom, is his chosen 
 
 haunt. In the spring and summer 
 months he retires to deep water and is 
 found several miles from shore. In 
 the fall he comes in close to land and 
 the nets are often spread from the 
 rocks. The long slender fork-tailed 
 trout is the pirate of these waters. 
 What the shark is to the sea he is to 
 the lake, voracious and ferocious. He 
 will eat anything. The fishermen 
 found in one a pebble as big as a man's 
 fist, in another an old hat. A full 
 grown lake trout may weigh sixty 
 pounds, and will attack anything but a 
 sturgeon. Trolling for them is a 
 favorite amusement. The muskallonge 
 looks like an immense pike. His 
 food is also smaller fish, and he is also 
 caught with the trolling-spoon. The 
 sturgeon now is his opposite; gets his 
 food by suction like a catfish. His 
 skin is black and smooth, scaleless as 
 an eel's. A great deal of the cod-liver 
 oil of to-day comes from the livers of 
 the sturgeon." 
 
 For several miles after leaving Mar- 
 quette, in the train that my silent 
 band of tourists is taking, we circle 
 the shore of the bay and lake. Across 
 the flashing waves the city stands out 
 in bold relief, its handsome residences, 
 massive public buildings, docks and 
 manufactories, so indicative of wealth 
 and prosperity, forming a fine picture. 
 Within a few miles we cross the Carp 
 and Chocolay rivers — both well stocked 
 with trout. At Deerton, twenty 
 miles from Marquette, the Whitefish 
 or Sable River is met. Three miles 
 south is Whitefish Lake, well stocked 
 with speckled trout and black bass. 
 
 THE HAUNTS OF GAME FISH. 
 
 On our left, just after passing Onota 
 Station we pass Deer Lake, a beautiful 
 woodland mirror about a mile long and 
 a quarter as wide. Lying hidden amid 
 dense hard wood forests, at the base 
 of rugged hills, it has naturally become 
 a favorite camping ground. Black 
 bass and muskallonge are abundant. 
 A climb to the summit of the hills on 
 its northern shore rewards you with a 
 magnificent view of Lake Superior 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 33 
 
 which is only about a quarter of a 
 mile away. Boats, bait, guides and 
 teams may be obtained here, while 
 deer, bear and small game are abun- 
 dant. Rock River deserves mention as 
 a trout stream, but our next stop is at 
 Au Train. Two miles from the 
 station, "across country" is Au Train 
 Lake, but to have followed the stream 
 which leads past the station would have 
 involved a journey of several miles be- 
 cause of its devious windings. This 
 liquid serpent, emptying into the lake 
 
 igan. The ride to Munising Bay 
 over a smooth road, under the arch- 
 ing branches of a hard wood forest, 
 forming a lovely bower whose foliage 
 the sun fails to penetrate, is most de- 
 lightful. The town of Old Munising 
 is situated on the eastern shore of the 
 bay. The ruins of an old iron fur- 
 nace tell of the unfulfilled hopes of 
 its early citizens. At Powell's Point, 
 opposite, a large hotel is being con- 
 structed, while a rival establishment 
 occupies the adjacent point on Grand 
 
 LiCrlTnouSE 
 
 at its head, runs from a range of hills 
 several miles southward and descends 
 in a succession of beautiful cascades, 
 favorite haunts of trout. Game 
 abounds, and at the hotel a few rods 
 from the station, teams, guides and 
 supplies of all kinds may be obtained, 
 while among the pine groves on the 
 rising land near river and lake good 
 camping grounds will be found. 
 
 A run of thirteen miles brings us 
 to Munising, where we take a stage 
 for the four miles to Munising Bay. 
 Sixteen-Mile Lake lies nine miles 
 to the southwest from the station, and 
 Long Lake two miles southeast. 
 Both are famous for black bass, large 
 perch, and trout. They are the first 
 of a chain of lakes and stream whose 
 waters flow southward into Lake Mich- 
 
 3 
 
 Island. No stop along the south 
 shore of Lake Superior is more en- 
 chanting than Munising Bay. It is 
 land-locked, high hills encircle it, and 
 beyond the mouth of the bay lies 
 Grand Island, in itself romantically 
 beautiful, although almost unnoticed 
 in this long succession of marvels that 
 is to make Superior's south shore the 
 Mecca of pleasure seekers. 
 
 The Pictured Rocks. Constance 
 Fenimore Woolson has written that 
 " the pictured rocks stretch from 
 Munising Harbor eastward along the 
 coast, rising in some places to the 
 height of two hundred feet from the 
 water, in sheer precipices, without 
 beach at their bases. They show a 
 constant succession of rock-sculptures, 
 and the effect is heightened by the 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 35 
 
 iDrilliancy of the coloring — yellow, 
 blue, green and gray,. in all shades of 
 dark and light, alternating with each 
 other in a manner which charms the 
 traveler, and so astonishes the sober 
 geologist that his dull pages blossom 
 as the rose. It is impossible to enu- 
 merate all the rock-pictures, for they 
 succeed each other in a bewildering 
 series, varying from differing points 
 of view and sweeping like a panorama, 
 from curve to curve, mile after mile. 
 They vary also, to various eyes, one 
 person seeing a castle with towers, 
 where another sees a caravan of the 
 desert ; the near-sighted following the 
 tracery of tropical foliage — the far- 
 sighted pointing out a storied fortifi- 
 cation with a banner flying from its 
 summit. There are, however, a num- 
 ber of the pictures so boldly drawn 
 that all can see them near or far, even 
 the most deadly-practical minds being 
 forced to admit their reality. Passing 
 the Chimney's and the Miners' Cas- 
 tle, a detached mass called the Sail 
 Rock, comes into view ; and so strik- 
 ing is the resemblance to a sloop with 
 the jib and mainsail spread, that, at a 
 short distance out at sea, anyone 
 would suppose it a real boat at anchor 
 near the beach. Two headlands be- 
 yond this, Le Grand Portal, so 
 named by the voyageurs, a race now 
 gone, whose unwritten history, hang- 
 ing in fragments on the points of 
 Lake Superior, and fast fading away, 
 belongs to what will soon be the mys- 
 tic days of the fur trade. The Grand 
 Portal is one hundred feet high by 
 one hundred and sixty-eight broad at 
 the water-level ; and the cliff in which 
 it is cut rises above the arch, making 
 the whole height one hundred and 
 eighty-five feet. The great cave whose 
 door is the Portal, stretches back in 
 the shape of a vaulted room, the arches 
 of the roof built of yellow sandstone, 
 and the sides fretted into fantastic 
 shapes by the waves driving in during 
 storms, and dashing up a hundred 
 feet toward the reverberating roof 
 with a hollow boom. Floating under 
 the Portal, on a summer day, voices 
 
 echo back and forth, a single word is 
 repeated, and naturally the mind re- 
 verts to the Indian belief in grotesque 
 imps who haunted the cavern and 
 played their pranks upon rash in- 
 truders. 
 
 " Farther toward the east is La 
 Chapelle of the voyageiirs. This 
 rock-chapel is forty feet above the 
 lake, a temple with an arched roof of 
 sandstone, resting partly on the cliff 
 behind, and partly on massive columns, 
 as perfect as the columned ruins of 
 Eg}-pt. Within, the rocks form an 
 altar and a pulpit; and the cliff in front 
 is worn into rough steps upward from 
 the water, so that all stands ready for 
 the minister and his congregation. 
 The colors of the rock are the fresco, 
 mosses and lichens are the stained 
 glass; and, from below, the continuous 
 wash of the water in and out through 
 holes in the sides, is like the low, open- 
 ing swell of an organ voluntary. A 
 Manitou dwelt in this chapel — not a 
 mischievous imp, like the spirits of the 
 Portal, but a grand god of the storm, 
 who, with his fellow god on Thunder 
 Cape of the north shore, commanded 
 the winds and waves of the whole 
 lake, from the Sault to Fond du 
 Lac. On the chapel-beach the Indians 
 performed their rites to appease him, 
 and here, at a later day, the merry 
 voyageiirs initiated the tyros of the 
 fur trade into the mysteries of their 
 craft, by plunging them into the water- 
 fall that dashes over the rocks near by, 
 a northern parody on * crossing-the- 
 line.' 
 
 "The Silver Cascade falls from 
 an overhanging cliff one hundred and 
 seventy-five feet into the lake below. 
 The fall of Niagara is one hundred 
 and sixty-five feet, ten feet less than 
 the Silver, which, however, is but a 
 ribbon in breadth, compared to the 
 ' ' Thunder of Waters." The Silver is a 
 beautiful fall and the largest among 
 the pictures; but the whole coast of 
 Superior is spangled with the spray of 
 innumerable cascades and rapids, as 
 all the little rivers, instead of running 
 through the gorges and ravines of the 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 37 
 
 lower lake country, spring boldly over 
 the cliffs, without waiting to make a 
 bed for themselves. Undine would 
 have loved their wild, sparkling waters. 
 " The coast of pictures is not yet 
 half explored, nor its beauties half dis- 
 covered; they vary in the light and in 
 the shade; they show one outline in 
 the sunshine and another in the moon- 
 light; battlements and arches, foliage 
 and vines, cities with their spires and 
 towers, processions of animals, and 
 even the great sea serpent himself, who 
 at last although still invisible in his 
 own person, has given us a kind of 
 rock-photograph of his mysterious 
 self. In one place there stands a 
 
 looks to the north, not sadly, not 
 sternly, like the old man of the 
 White Mountains, but benign of 
 aspect, and so beautiful in her 
 rounded, womanly curves, that the 
 late watcher on the beach falls into 
 the dream of Endymion; but when 
 he wakes in the grey dawn he finds 
 her gone, and only a shapeless rock 
 glistens in the rays of the rising sun." 
 To the pleasure-loving tourist or 
 connoisseur of Nature's gems the 
 Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior 
 carry with them an interest entirely 
 unique and excelled by no other 
 wonders of our country, not even 
 excepting the Yosemite or Yellow- 
 stone Park. 
 ") Seven miles east of Munising 
 Station, we come upon the longest 
 tangent on the line, thirty-five miles 
 straight as the crow flies. In the next 
 
 majestic profile looking towards the 
 north — a woman's face, the Empress 
 of the Lake. It is the pleasure of her 
 Imperial Highness to visit the rock 
 only by night, a Diana of the New 
 World. In the daytime search is 
 vain, she will not reveal herself; but 
 when the low-down moon shines across 
 the water, behold, she appears. She 
 
 hundred miles we 
 cross innumerable 
 _ ^ tributaries of the 
 
 Manistique and 
 Tahquemenon Rivers. Numerous lakes 
 lie along the courses and at the head 
 waters of these streams, their waters 
 teeming with speckled trout, black bass, 
 muskallonge, pike, pickerel and perch. 
 Deer, bear, geese, ducks, partridge are 
 numerous, the whole region being un- 
 excelled in its natural attractiveness to 
 the fisherman and sportsman. 
 
DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAF. 
 
 Seney, McMillan and Newberry 
 are the principal towns. These are 
 lumbering centres, while at Newberry 
 the Newberry Furnace Co. have their 
 extensive works. Teams, guides, boats, 
 bait, hotel accommodations and every 
 requisite for camp life and fishing or 
 hunting expeditions are obtainable at 
 these points at reasonable rates. 
 
 THE LOG CABIN AS IT IS. 
 
 Lumber camps have stared at us 
 from clearings and peeped at us from 
 clusters of tree trunks until here, in 
 what seems to the reader the most un- 
 interesting point we have touched, I 
 must pause to say a few words about 
 an experience I had. 
 
 It was on the other side of the line 
 in Canada where I was hunting the 
 agile and circumspect mooge. It was 
 at Christmas time last year. My 
 
 guides were half-breed Indians who, 
 like almost every one else in this great 
 timber belt that I was in then and we 
 are in now, were half lumbermen also, 
 that is to say, when hunting was out 
 of season and idling grew tiresome 
 and bread was in demand, they shoul- 
 dered axes "and lumbered," as they 
 say. We passed a number of lumber 
 camps and saw the same log huts oi 
 cabins that we see again here in 
 Michigan, and I grew very interested 
 in the gigantic industry, in the skill 
 with which the men sent the great 
 trees falling, precisely to a hair, where 
 they wanted them to fall ; in the de- 
 pendence they placed on their axes — 
 preferring to be armed with one rather 
 than with any rifle that money can 
 buy; in the splendid vigor of health 
 they exhibited, wading into ice water 
 as boldly as any Miss at Narragansett 
 Pier wades into the summer 
 sea; and finally I took an 
 interest in their mode of 
 living, herded like Chinese 
 or Italian laborers in rows 
 of bunks in these little 
 cabins, building muscle 
 upon plainest fare, eating, 
 working and sleeping, with 
 only the dissipation or rec- 
 reative pleasure of now and 
 then a pipe of tobacco. 
 
 Little did I dream that 
 
 I too, was to live like that. 
 
 I spent my first nights out 
 
 under the trees, sleeping 
 
 upon balsam 
 
 boughs. But 
 
 the region 
 
 where the 
 
 game was to 
 
 ^.IVlu yejSifji'i 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 39 
 
 be had was in a neighborhood whence 
 the kimber hunters had moved, leaving 
 one of their cabins vacant and tenant- 
 less. Into that we moved, and there 
 we kept house — years, it seemed to me 
 — so tired of it did I get. We had a 
 fire in the middle of the floor, and it 
 took wood enough to build a block 
 of cottages to keep that flame leaping 
 for one week. There was a chimney 
 over the alleged fire-place, but the 
 smoke preferred to fill the cabin whence 
 a little of it occasionally escaped 
 when the door was opened or squeezed 
 out reluctantly through the chinks in 
 the walls, I never would treat a meer- 
 schaum pipe the way that cabin treated 
 me. 
 
 At first I indulged in sentimental 
 views of the situation. I thought how 
 in this very way must have lived the pil- 
 grim fathers and the missionary priests 
 
 who were the bravest and best men 
 who ever yet have trod this continent. 
 I knew that Daniel Boone and Davy 
 Crockett, and all the deities in the 
 Walhalla of juvenile literature, cer- 
 tainly did inhabit log cabins. I fancied 
 the delight with which Captains Lewis 
 and Clarke would have hailed such a 
 " find " as this had they come upon it 
 in the forest or on the prairie. I even 
 hummed " The little old log cabin," as 
 I ate my salt pork and drank that 
 lumberman's tea, which would eat a 
 hole in a monitor if a cup of it were 
 spilled on the deck. 
 
 But sentiment cannot fatten on salt 
 pork three times a day, and poetry 
 cannot be hung up like venison and 
 smoked. Gradually I came to a pracr 
 tical study of the situation. I grew 
 tired of the utter inability to find any- 
 thing to do when it rained, tired of the 
 smoke and the salt pork and the hud- 
 dle of men forever in each other's 
 way. In another work I have 
 soberly and calmly described 
 the home-life of the Puri- 
 tan father and the mission- 
 ary as no historian ever 
 described it before. 
 I have given a 
 pen picture of the 
 boudoir of Davy 
 Crockett's sweet- 
 heart, consisting of 
 acornerof adirt- 
 ..^ floored, smoke- 
 ^"^ grimed cabin, 
 appointed with a 
 W"^^~— pail of ice water 
 ~'^- and a comb that 
 
 cried for artificial teeth. Davy 
 himself doubtless used a limpid 
 and gurgling brooklet for a wash- 
 bowl, and stood up in the breeze 
 to dry his face and hands — and 
 even that was more recherche than 
 the toilet-making of my In- 
 dians, who prepared for break- 
 fast by lighting a pipe with 
 which to go out and wash their 
 hands in a snow bank. 
 
 I have no doubt at all that 
 if Dickens had had the good 
 
40 
 
 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 luck to be born in America, he would 
 have done as much for the log cabin as 
 he did for that water-soaked scow that 
 Peggoty lived in, and for the hundred 
 other uncomfortable homes and modes 
 of life around which he threw the halo 
 of his kindly pen — but not if he act- 
 ually lived in the timber and observed 
 the peculiar customs of the neighbors, 
 because then he would have known 
 about what he was celebrating — always 
 a fatal impediment to Art. 
 
 THE EVER-CHANGING SCENE. 
 
 At Sault Junction the line di- 
 vides, one branch leading to St. 
 Ignace, the other to Sault 
 Ste. Marie. We will follow 
 the right fork first, which lands 
 us at St. Ignace after a run of 
 
 forty-three miles 
 through a sparsely 
 settled tract, well watered by trout 
 streams. Here we connect with the 
 steamers of the D. & C. S. N. Co. for 
 Detroit, Cleveland and all eastern 
 points. 
 
 St. Ignace is a flourishing village 
 of about 3000 people. A large iron 
 furnace and extensive gypsum deposits 
 promise a rapid future growth. The 
 central point of interest to the tourist 
 is a spot about twenty feet square, near 
 
 the middle of the village, where a plain 
 marble shaft marks the grave of Pere 
 Marquette, fit resting place, in the 
 centre of the region in which his active, 
 unselfish, zealous life had been spent. 
 Here a powerful steam ferry trans- 
 fers the solid train to Mackinaw City, 
 across the Straits of Mackinac, landing 
 us in Lower Michigan, where connec- 
 tion is made with the Michigan Cen- 
 tral and Grand Rapids and Indiana 
 Railroads for Cheboygan, Petoskey, 
 Detroit, Niag- 
 ara Falls and 
 all the eastern 
 cities and re- 
 sorts that most 
 of us are at 
 once fleeing 
 from, and yet 
 reluctantly ap- 
 proaching. As 
 we cross the 
 straits our eyes 
 drink in the 
 beauty of an 
 island, large 
 and bold and 
 picturesque, 
 on the left 
 hand, as we are 
 j ourneying. 
 You scarcely 
 need to be told 
 that it is fa- 
 mous. The 
 moment you 
 set eyes on any 
 of the places 
 that popular 
 decree has rendered royal — whether 
 it be Newport or Saratoga, Lake George 
 or whatsoever other grand rendezvous 
 you please — you see the reason for it 
 as well as the fact of it. Were there 
 a poet or a vocalist in our party he 
 might break out at sight of this mound 
 of emerald heaped up in a sea of tur- 
 quoise with the verses that a local 
 minstrel has set to the perpetual 
 melody of rhyme: 
 
 Beauteous Isle ! I sing of thee, 
 
 Mackinac, my Mackinac ; 
 Thy lake-bound shores I love to see, 
 
 Mackinac, my Mackinac. 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 41 
 
 From Arch Rock's height and shelving steep 
 To western cliffs and Lover's Leap, 
 Where memories of the lost one sleep, 
 Mackinac, my Mackinac. 
 
 Thy shore once trod by British foe, 
 
 Mackinac, my Mackinac : 
 That day saw gallant Holmes laid low, 
 Mackinac, my Mackinac. 
 Now Freedom's flag above thee waves. 
 And guards the rest of fallen braves — 
 Their requiem sung by Huron's waves — 
 Mackinac, my Mackinac. 
 
 For that bold island is none other 
 than Mackinac — "The Classic Isle of 
 the Historic Straits " — now the finest 
 watering place west of the Atlantic, 
 and, as a health resort, unexcelled any- 
 where. 
 
 which I have not studied ; yet mv at- 
 tention has, from time to time, been 
 attracted to this essentially French 
 trick of spelling a word one way and 
 pronouncing it another. I ascribe it to 
 the fact that (all over the northern 
 country, at least) the French were the 
 lexicographers of the Indian tongues, 
 and applied to the words that the red 
 men taught them the same habit that 
 has led them to soften and feminize 
 their own words of Latin origin. I am 
 aware that the termination "'nac" is 
 not a common one with them, or one 
 that they particularly maltreat ; yet 
 
 
 The word is spelled Mackinac, but 
 it is pronounced '' Mackinaw." This 
 is not only the local rendering of the 
 word, but it is authorized by " Lippin- 
 cott's Gazetteer." I may be rash to 
 venture my opinion about a matter 
 
 there are instances a-plenty in which the 
 English obtained blunt and often rude 
 nomenclatures from the Indians, and 
 the French came after or before them 
 and spelled the names as the English 
 did, while pronouncing them with a 
 
42 
 
 DULUTH^ SOUTH SHORE ^ ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 roll and a "twang" all their own. But, 
 however it came about, you must read 
 the word Mackinac and pronounce 
 it " Mackinaw," and let us hope the 
 violence to your tongue and your logic 
 will not need to be overcome by act of 
 Legislature, as happened in Arkansas, 
 whose Solons have actually enacted a 
 
 4^. ^*-" 
 
 ever-ready pad. The corner of a little 
 cottage fell within the picture as he 
 planned it and, with more care than 
 was necessary, he drew its lines. The 
 mistress of the dwelling saw the un- 
 wonted apparition of two men of strange 
 habit and suspicious interest in her 
 domicile, and came out to learn what 
 
 statute legalizing and enforcing the 
 pronunciation " Arkansaw " — a twist of 
 the tongue known to the majority of 
 Americans only through the medium 
 of a comic song. 
 
 ABOUT WESTERN WATERING PLACES. 
 
 Once before, when I was resting at 
 a typical western watering place, in 
 company with an artist of national re- 
 nown, we decided that an especially 
 pretty view from an angle of a lake-side 
 road was too picturesque to entrust to 
 memory, and so the artist sat down 
 upon a tree-stump to sketch it on his 
 
 designs were on foot against her peace. 
 When she saw that the artist was 
 sketching, and that her house was part 
 of his subject, she was evidently re- 
 lieved. 
 
 "Are you a traveling — what do you 
 call it — er-er photographer, I mean?" 
 she inquired. 
 
 " No," my friend said; he was "only 
 an artist." 
 
 " Well, that's the same thing, ain't 
 it ?" she persisted. " Anyhow, husband 
 and I have fixed up our house right 
 smart this year, and he said, only 
 t'other day, that if any photographer er 
 
ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE. 
 
 43 
 
 artist er anything came along that we'd 
 oughter hev a picture of the place. 
 What 'd you charge for one ?" 
 
 With great difficulty we got the 
 good woman to comprehend that we 
 were otherwise employed, but that we 
 meant to publish our work in an east- 
 ern pictorial paper, and that we would 
 see that she received one or more copies 
 of this particular sketch, provided 
 we remained of the opinion that it was 
 worthy of publication when we reached 
 home. She insisted upon our coming 
 into her cosey little house, where she 
 entertained us with all the politeness 
 that was ever born in a gentle soul. 
 
 She was not typical of the people 
 one meets at western resorts, except 
 from one point of view — her questions 
 proved her to be unsophisticated, and 
 in that respect she certainly was not 
 western. But her free and democratic 
 spirit, her hospitality, and her faith in 
 her own judgment of our merits, all 
 typified the qualities that most please a 
 true son of the republic who visits our 
 
 stalwart western country. And no- 
 where is there such a chance to see 
 these good qualities as in a popular va- 
 cation rendezvous. It is worth the 
 while of a stranger to go to such a 
 place as Mackinac, just-to note their 
 frank and honest respect for merit and 
 manhood, granted readily, without a 
 request for letters of introduction or a 
 glimpse at your family Bible. 
 
 But candor compels me to say that 
 whoever wants to see all this in its 
 purity had better hurry up. The 
 heaping up of wealth and the crowd- 
 ing of population are doing their 
 work out west. They will be asking 
 who your father was, out there, very 
 soon. 
 
 Mackinac has a distinctly stylish 
 tone and side, one that has insisted up- 
 on the service of as fine a hotel as any 
 place boasts ; an element of wealth 
 and culture that will soon deck the 
 beautiful island with a cottage settle- 
 ment like that at the Thousand Islands 
 or at Narragansett Pier. 
 
 '^M3 
 
MACKINAC. 
 
 /ACKINAC Island lies like 
 yiHa..Uifjy4 ^ broken link between 
 iipper and lower Michigan. Around 
 it meet the waters of the two great 
 lakes, Huron and Michigan, whose 
 level is five hundred and eighty-one 
 feet above the sea. This island has 
 sufficient area to cause a journey of 
 nine miles in skirting its shores, yet we 
 may practically walk all over it in a 
 day. It is shapen as if it had been 
 made square, and then some giant 
 force had pulled each of its corners 
 a little away. It rises sheer above 
 the translucent waters, a great plateau, 
 two hundred to three hundred feet in 
 height, wooded luxuriantly and framed 
 with a broad white beach. 
 
 As is the custom with old villages, 
 wherever they are seen, the little orig- 
 inal settlement crouches at the foot of 
 the bluff beneath the fort — a. straggling, 
 picturesque settlement of shops and 
 cottages, churches and hotels, facing the 
 white strand and the marvelously clear 
 water. As is also the custom with the 
 wiser planning of mankind to-day, the 
 far choicer high ground is being built 
 upon with modern hotels and lovely 
 villas. Up there, also, is the military 
 reservation of one hundred and three 
 acres, and the remainder has been set 
 apart by the Government — justly ap- 
 preciating its unique attractions — for a 
 National Park. 
 
 In the hotel accommodations will be 
 found service for the luxurious as well 
 as for folks of plainest tastes and 
 moderate means. The leading hos- 
 
 telry is Plank's Grand, an establish- 
 ment comparable with any on the 
 continent. The " Grand " towers 
 above a high bluff on the westerly end 
 of the island, commanding a superb 
 view of the Straits of Mackinac, 
 whence comes an almost unintermit- 
 tent cool breeze. The majestic build- 
 ing is the first object on the island 
 apparent from the decks of incoming 
 steamers. The descent from the bluff 
 to the beach is about three hundred 
 feet, pleasantly made upon a rustic 
 stairway. The hotel is new and mod- 
 ern in all its appointments, having 
 been built at a cost of $300,000 in 
 the spring of 1887, to accommodate 
 1000 visitors. It is the finest caravan- 
 sary in the north. The *' Grand" is 
 six hundred and fifty feet long and 
 five stories in height, surmounted by 
 a tall tower, from which an expansive 
 and uninterrupted view may be ob- 
 tained. The architecture is of the 
 "Old Colonial" style, its distinctive 
 feature being a colonnaded portico, 
 upon which the windows of every floor 
 open. This portico or veranda is 
 twenty-two to thirty-two feet in width, 
 and extends the entire length of the 
 house, a magnificent promenade. From 
 the large rotunda office opposite the 
 main entrance, spacious halls, running 
 the length of the building, lead to the 
 breakfast room, dining hall, and ordi- 
 nary, on one side, and to the reading 
 and drawing rooms, and private parlors, 
 on the other. Of these apartments, es- 
 pecial attention is called to the dining 
 
MACKINAC. 
 
 45 
 
 hall, a mammoth brilliantly lighted 
 and perfectly ventilated room, capable 
 of accommodating six hundred people. 
 It occupies the space of two stories, 
 its vaulted ceiling being twenty-seven 
 feet overhead, and the handsomely 
 decorated windows in proportion. The 
 guest rooms are all large, light and 
 well furnished. Each front suite is pro- 
 vided with a private balcony, a novel 
 but highly attractive feature of the 
 "Grand." The hotel is lighted by gas 
 and electricity, heated with steam, and 
 provided with an elevator and electric 
 call and fire-alarm bells. It is also 
 equipped with barber shop, bath-rooms, 
 steam laundry and a first-class livery, 
 the last two enterprises under the man- 
 agement of A. Fisk Starr,known to fame 
 as the genial charioteer of Mackinac. 
 An orchestra discourses music during 
 meal hours and enlivens the veranda and 
 ball-room in the evening. The Casino, 
 at the south of the 
 ^ , " hotel, furnishes all desir- 
 - •, , able indoor 
 
 ;' .. o'-v'^v'Si'jy-rl' ■ amusements. 
 
 There are several other good hotels 
 on the island, the leading ones being 
 the Mission House and the John 
 Jacob Astor House. 
 
 Having decided the matmer in which 
 you will be housed during your stay,, 
 the next point is to consider how you 
 will spend your time: What are the at- 
 tractions ? Will your holidays be agree- 
 ably passed ? 
 
 Lieut. Greeley, the Arctic hero, in 
 an article written for Scribner' s Mag- 
 azine and entitled, " Where shall we 
 spend the summer?" names Mack- 
 inac as pre-eminent in possessing the 
 cool, dry bracing air necessary to 
 health, while ex-Surgeon General Wil- 
 liam A. Hammond, the famous special- 
 ist, long of New York and now of 
 Washington, writes as follows : 
 
 " So far as my personal experience 
 goes, there is no place so good in every 
 respect for the exhausted city worker 
 of the East, the banker, the merchant, 
 the professional man and his wife and 
 children — who have probably in their 
 way worked as hard as he has — as the 
 Island of Mackinac. 
 
 "It lies in the straits of the same- 
 name, between Lake Michigan and Lake 
 Huron. Every breeze that comes to 
 it blows over the water and parts with 
 its surplus heat. The air is dry and 
 bracing; the middle of the day warm 
 for two or three hours; the nights cool 
 and invigorating. There is not a bad 
 smell in the island; not a mosquito 
 nor any other kind of pestilent insect. 
 I found all this out when I was sta- 
 tioned there as medical officer a year 
 before the civil war. I tried it last 
 year on the strength of my recollec- 
 tions of more than twenty-five years 
 ago, and, as the result of my experi- 
 ence, I am going there again this year. 
 I have no hesitation in saying that it is 
 the best summer resort of which I 
 have any knowledge for persons 
 whose nervous systems are run 
 down, or who desire to be built up 
 and strengthened." 
 
46 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 PLEASURE FOR ALL TASTES. 
 
 Mackinac offers as many ways of 
 Icilling dull time, or making dull time 
 gay, as any resort in America. That is 
 a ponderous assertion ; because there 
 are almost as many appetites, normal 
 and false, as there are possibilities of 
 satisfying them. I remember once in 
 one of those fugitive, chance meetings 
 
 very best fun in the world, it would be 
 a winter's straw ride in the country with 
 his old companions and sweethearts, 
 terminating with a dinner and a dance, 
 and a moonlight journey home. Avery 
 red-faced old man smiled contemptu- 
 ously at this, and said, "A dinner! 
 Heaven defend me from a dinner such 
 as you would get. It would consist of 
 ham and eggs and milk and doughnuts 
 
 TV^^^'* 
 
 
 that occur between men on long rail- 
 road journeys (and to which the ladies 
 are and must be strangers), the con- 
 versation turned to a discussion of the 
 greatest pleasure in life. A very young 
 man said that, if he could choose the 
 
 — sudden death in four forms." What 
 he enjoyed most keenly, he said, was 
 a canvas-back duck cooked as it can 
 be cooked only in Baltimore or Wash- 
 ington, and enriched by a bottle of 
 Chambertin. 
 
MACKINAC. 
 
 47 
 
 " Pshaw !" said a dandyish man, 
 with steel-gray hair and clothing that 
 bore the London stamp; "give me 
 my vacht and half a gale astern, and 
 give me all the sea room I want. Then, 
 as the boat careens and dips her rail 
 in the sea, and the spray flies and the 
 sail strains, I'll throw myself on my 
 back, pipe in mouth, upon the deck, 
 and never will man dream of greater 
 pleasure than mine." 
 
 " And yet," said a commercial trav- 
 eler, " perhaps I'll be to-night where I 
 shall pale your sensations into nothing. 
 If I meet the men I expect to, we will 
 gather around a table and have a little 
 game of ' draw.' Nine-tenths of the 
 game will be insipid, but there will 
 come a moment when I will have a 
 splendid hand; a partner will fancy he 
 has a better one. We will pit our 
 hands against one another. The other 
 players will draw out — you know the 
 rest. I would not exchange those mo- 
 ments of anxiety, hope, doubt, wonder, 
 desperation and triumph for all the 
 dancing maidens, the Delmonico's fare 
 and the stupid boats in all creation." 
 
 "I see that not one of you knows 
 Avhat pleasure is," said the last man in 
 the group— a heavy-jawed, rather dull- 
 faced fellow. " Did your ever fish — 
 for game fish, I mean — trout, black 
 bass, muskallonge, pickerel — I care not 
 which ? Ah, there's a sensation ! You 
 are beneath a blue sky, in a cooling 
 breeze, with the green drapery of 
 Nature gladdening every view. But 
 3'ou are uncertain whether you are to 
 have any sport or not ; just a little 
 tired and discouraged — thinking of 
 going back to your camp or trying 
 somewhere else — when, zip!!! what's 
 that ? Your line pulls, your rod bends, 
 you have got a dandy — a two-pounder, 
 at least. Then follows one minute, or 
 five minutes, of keenest, wildest, most 
 magnetic, thrilling pleasure. What is 
 it ? Will you get it ? Oh, thunder ! 
 It's off ; but, no, no ; there it is again. 
 Give it a little line ; reel in steady and 
 slow. There ! see that ! a black bass 
 — a big one — it leaped a foot from the 
 water ! Oh, my friends, take your 
 
 dreamy waltzes, your ruddy wine, your 
 demoralizing cards, your horses and 
 your boats ; but give me an hour at a 
 good fishing ground, and I'll ask no 
 more." 
 
 At Mackinac every one of those 
 dreamers would find satisfaction, and 
 so would twice as many more of dif- 
 ferent tastes. The wondrous clear 
 water, clearer than ever Lake George 
 boasted, reveals the fish that you may 
 catch ; for you can see them gliding 
 beneath you. It offers unparalleled 
 boating pleasures, by oar and sail ; the 
 epicure will never fare better than 
 there. There is bathing, too — a rare 
 treat in the northern country; for in 
 Lake Superior, for instance, I have 
 heard that the water is so chilly that 
 the sailors who work upon it do not 
 learn to swim. There is dancing, there 
 are many delightful pleasure routes for 
 daily excursions, there is music, and, 
 as to the girls — the Mackinac girls are 
 as famous as the West is celebrated for 
 the production of fine women. They 
 come to this great resort in large num- 
 bers, from as far away as St. Paul, Chi- 
 cago and Cincinnati — in lesser num- 
 bers from all parts of America. The 
 young men who rove with fancies free 
 yet anxious to be fettered, tell me there 
 is no such beauty show in any of the 
 other resorts. At Mackinac all the 
 elements meet — the fashionable, the 
 cultivated and the homespun beauties 
 of the nation. The combination of 
 scenic and human loveliness recalls 
 that '* Daydream on the Rhine," in the 
 collection of poems edited by Long- 
 fellow : 
 
 11* + * Where the laughing hills 
 
 Thy majesty do greet, 
 And echoes call from rock to rock 
 
 All through the noonday heat. 
 In earliest dusk the gathering stars 
 
 Above thee love to meet. 
 
 " When lovers in the ferry-boat 
 
 Forget the passing tide, 
 And closer drawn, cling lip to lip, 
 
 What though the river 's wide. 
 And silver clouds no secrets tell 
 
 To the towers on either side." 
 
 So, when I tell you of the woodland 
 walks, of the row-boats and the sail- 
 boats, of the bathing, and the tennis, 
 and the dancing, and the picnics, and 
 
48 
 
 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 the excursions, and then declare the 
 ladies to be matchless — if you want 
 more, not all my travels sufifice for me 
 to direct you where to go. 
 
 The highest praise, I think, that can 
 be given to that or any place, I heard 
 spoken with regard to Mackinac by a 
 well-known New Yorker, who went 
 there to spend a vacation such as he 
 always had enjoyed, wath varied sports 
 and pleasures : " But I had over- 
 worked," he said, "and was in that 
 nervous condition when I fancied no 
 place in the world would please me. 
 And yet I not only had the best en- 
 joyment of my life, but I got it from 
 doing nothing. I simply drank in that 
 marvelous tonic air, and loafed about in 
 that wondrous placid scenery without 
 a desire unsatisfied, only dreading the 
 hour when I must pack up and leave it." 
 
 It takes a brass band to make some 
 resorts popular. Mackinac needs noth- 
 ing that Nature did not give it. 
 
 THE SQUAW WAY OF SHOPPING. 
 
 To a visitor from the East, the num- 
 ber of Indians seen, especially in Mich- 
 
 igan, makes a deep impression. They 
 are best seen and studied at Mackinac, 
 where they perform a great deal of the 
 work that is not wholly servile. They 
 are the fishermen, boatmen, guides- 
 and gardeners of the region. It is very 
 interesting to see their squaws at the 
 village at Mackinac in the summer- 
 tide. You will be apt to come upon 
 three or four, with their blankets 
 around them, seated in a store. You 
 make your own purchases, go away, 
 and return in an hour and there are 
 those squaws just as you left them — 
 still sitting there. That is how they 
 shop. They like to sit down and 
 contemplate the goods. If the pro- 
 prietor tries to hurry them, they will 
 leave the place. When they get 
 ready they buy, often by exchanging 
 their goods for those of the white 
 people. Very many beautiful varieties 
 of Indian work in beads and bark 
 are to be had at low prices in Mack- 
 inac, and many an Eastern and far 
 Western and European home is dec- 
 orated with these trophies of a summer 
 at that place. 
 
SPECIAL FEATURES AT MACKINAC. 
 
 THE FORTS. 
 
 Fort Mackinac, which stands on 
 a rocky eminence just above the town, 
 was built by the Enghsh in 1780. The 
 buildings are a hospital, outside the 
 wall and east of the fort; a guard- 
 house, near the south gate; officers' 
 quarters on the hill near the flag-staff; 
 quarters for the men in the centre; 
 block-houses on the walls; magazine 
 in the hollow, not far from the south 
 gate; store-houses, offices, etc. There 
 are persons yet living on the Island 
 who, during the troubles of 1814, took 
 refuge in these self-same block-houses. 
 In the rear of the fort is the parade 
 ground, and the spot where Captain 
 Roberts planted his guns in 1812, while 
 his whole force of Indians was con- 
 cealed in the adjacent thickets. Capt. 
 Roberts disembarked at British Land- 
 ing, marched across the Island and 
 took up his station at this point with- 
 out being discovered. 
 
 Half or three-quarters of a mile be- 
 hind Fort Mackinac, on the crowning 
 point of the island, is Fort Holmes, 
 built soon after the British captured 
 the post in 181 2. Each citizen was 
 compelled to give three days' work to- 
 ward its construction. The excava- 
 tion encircling the embankment, or 
 earthworks^ was originally broader and 
 deeper than now. The place of the 
 gate is seen on the east side, one of the 
 posts yet remaining to mark its position. 
 In the centre of the fort was erected 
 a huge block-house, beneath which 
 was the magazine. Near the gate was 
 the entrance to several underground cel- 
 lars, which have now caved in. The fort 
 was defended by what we would now 
 call " pop-guns," the largest of which 
 was only an eighteen-pounder. His- 
 tory shows this fort to have been con- 
 
 sidered a very remarkable and formi- 
 dable defense in its time. Its first name 
 was Fort George, but when it became 
 an American possession it was re- 
 named in honor of Major Holmes, a 
 hero who fell at Early's Farm. 
 
 Robinson's folly. 
 
 Robinson's Folly is just that and 
 nothing more. Like so many land- 
 marks that acquire names existent 
 long before they are written, the origin 
 of the name will not bear too particu- 
 lar an investigation. The cliff itself 
 is quite worthy its fame as the visitor 
 will see. One legend has it that 
 " Captain Robinson, a great admirer of 
 ladies, while strolling in the woods 
 suddenly beheld a few rods before him 
 a beautiful girl, who retreated as fast 
 as he approached, until finally she 
 stood almost on the edge of the cliff, 
 and in his eagerness to capture, as well 
 as to save her from that death which 
 would have been preferable to his in- 
 tentions, the captain sprang forward to 
 seize her, but just as he clutched her 
 arm, she threw herself forward into 
 the chasm, dragging her tormentor and 
 would-be saviour with her. His body 
 alone was found. He was long 
 mourned by his men and brother 
 officers, until by and by it began to be 
 whispered that the captain had in- 
 dulged too freely in the fine old French 
 brandy that the fur traders brought 
 up from Montreal, and the lady was a 
 mere ignis fatuus of his excited imag- 
 ination, but the mantle of sentiment 
 has been thrown over the tragedy, and 
 a romantic explanation given in its 
 place." 
 
 Another legend records that after 
 the removal of the fort to the island 
 in 1780, Captain Robinson, who then 
 commanded the post, had a summer 
 
50 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAIL WAV. 
 
 house built upon the cUff, which soon 
 became a frequent resort for himself 
 and brother officers. Pipes, cigars and 
 wine were called into requisition, for no 
 entertainment was thought complete 
 without them, and thus many an hour 
 passed pleasantly away. After a few 
 
 cannot fully describe the novelty and 
 beauty of this eccentricity of Nature 
 or the sensations it produces. It is a 
 magnificent natural arch, spanning a 
 chasm of eighty or ninety feet in 
 height, and forty or fiftv in width. 
 The summit of this rock is one hun- 
 
 €hterihCi IPCK 
 
 years, by the action of the elements, 
 a portion of the cliff, together with 
 the house, fell to the base of the rock, 
 which disastrous event gave rise to the 
 name. The brow of this cliff is one 
 hundred and twenty-seven feet high. 
 
 FAIRY ARCH. 
 
 Fairy Arch lies a little to the north 
 of this. It stands out boldly near the 
 base of an immense rock, and is well 
 worth the trouble of a visit. Words 
 
 dred and forty-nine feet above the 
 level of the lake. Its alnitments are 
 composed of calcareous rock, and the 
 opening underneath the arch has been 
 produced by the falling down of the 
 great masses of rock now to be seen 
 upon the beach below. A path to the 
 right leads to the brink of the arch, 
 whence the visitor, if sufficiently reck- 
 less, may pass to its summit, which is 
 about three feet in width. Here we 
 see twigs of cedar growing out of what 
 
SPECIAL FEATURES AT MACKLXAC. 
 
 51 
 
 appears to be solid rock, while in the 
 rear and on either hand the lofty 
 eminence is clothed with trees and 
 shrubbery — maple, birch, poplar, cedar, 
 and balsam — giving to the landscape 
 richness and variety. Before us are 
 the majestic waters of Lake Huron, 
 dotted in the distance with islands. 
 We may now descend through the 
 great chasm, " arched by the hand 
 of God," and at the base of the pro- /^ 
 
 /, 
 
 is two hundred and eighty-four feet 
 above the lake. Its composition is the 
 same as that of Arch Rock. Its shape 
 is conical, and from its crevices grow a 
 few vines and cedars. It is cavernous, 
 and in the north side is an opening suf- 
 ficient to admit several individuals. 
 The view from the top is exquisite. 
 Half a mile to the rear of the fort, 
 and only a short distance to the right 
 
 
 jecting angle of the main rock find a 
 second arch less magnificent, but no 
 less curious and wonderful. Passing 
 under this, we soon reach the beach 
 below, whence the view is particularly 
 grand and imposing. 
 
 It is held that the portion support- 
 ing the arch on the north side, and the 
 curve of the arch itself, are compara- 
 tively fragile, and cannot for a long 
 period resist the action of rains and 
 frosts, which, in this latitude, and on 
 a rock thus constituted, produce great 
 ravages every season. The arch, 
 which on one side now connects this 
 abutment with the main cliff, will soon 
 l)e destroyed, as well as the abutment 
 itself, and the whole, be precipitated 
 into the lake. 
 
 SUGAR LOAF ROCK. 
 
 The plateau upon which Sugar Loaf 
 Rock stands is one hundred and fifty 
 feet high, while the summit of the rock 
 
 of the road leading to Early's Farm, is 
 
 SKULL ROCK, 
 
 noted as the place in which Alexander 
 Henry was secreted by the Chippewa 
 chief, Wawatan, after the massacre of 
 the British garrison at Old Mackinaw. 
 Near the house now occupied by Mr. 
 Early is that relic of 181 2, the old 
 Dousman house, across the road from 
 which is the battle-ground. A short 
 distance down the road leading through 
 this farm is 
 
 BRITISH LANDING, 
 
 where Captain Roberts disembarked a 
 force of English, French and Indians 
 to take the island in 181 2. The Ameri- 
 cans, under Col. Croghan, also landed 
 a-t this same place in August, 18 14, 
 under cover of the guns of the squad- 
 ron, and marched to the edge of the 
 clearing, now Early's Farm. But the 
 enemy were in waiting, and hardly had 
 
52 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE ^ ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 he reached the scene when a fire was 
 opened upon him, and the woods on 
 every side Hterally swarmed with sav- 
 ages. He was obHged to retreat, with 
 the loss of Major Hohnes ar.d several 
 men. To the right of British Landing 
 is the road through the woods to 
 
 scott's cave, 
 
 which is under one of the huge rocks 
 peculiar to Mackinac. Its entrance is 
 very low, but in the interior a giant 
 might stand erect. Unless provided 
 with a candle or lantern, the visitor 
 will find himself in almost total dark- 
 ness. 
 
 Leaving the town at its western ex- 
 tremity, and following the foot-path 
 around the brow of the high bluffs 
 which bound the southwestern side of 
 the island, for about a mile, then, de- 
 scending a zig-zag stair, you come to 
 the 
 
 devil's kitchen, 
 
 a cavernous rock, curious in its forma- 
 tion as well as its name. Near it is a 
 spring of clear, cold water. The road 
 along the beach should not be used, as 
 it is utterly impracticable. A few yards 
 further on is the famous 
 
 lover's leap. 
 
 The Lover's Leap, about a mile 
 west of the village, is a high, perpen- 
 dicular bluff, rising sheer from the lake 
 nearly two hundred feet. The legend 
 that gives the giant cliff its name 
 is of a young Ojibway girl and 
 her warrior love. You who have not 
 seen the noble red man and his squaw 
 will perhaps find a great deal more 
 poetry and charm in the legend than 
 those of us who have made the ac- 
 quaintance of the various tribes from 
 Hudson Bay to the Apache country. 
 At all events, it is the story that gave 
 the bluff its name — almost identically 
 the story that attaches to another emi- 
 nence near Stockbridge, Mass., and to 
 scores of places of lesser fame. The 
 Ojibway girl's name was Me-che-ne- 
 mock-e-nung-o-qua, and you will please 
 remember that it was with no hope of 
 
 ever changing it that she fell in love 
 with Ge-niw-e-gwon, the valiant brave, 
 for marriage does not offer that boon 
 to the Indian girl. At all events, she 
 often wandered to this cliff and gazed 
 from its dizzy heights, and witnessed 
 the receding canoes of the large war 
 parties of the combined bands of the 
 Ojibway s and Ottawas speeding south, 
 seeking fame and scalps. 
 
 And it is recorded that she sang the 
 Ojibway love-song, running like this : 
 
 " A loon, I thought, was looming, 
 A loon, I thought, was looming. 
 Why ! it is he, my lover ! 
 Why ! it is he, my lover ! 
 His paddle in the waters gleaming. 
 His paddle in the waters gleaming." 
 
 Those Indian songs are pretty only 
 when you can't hear them, by theM'ay, 
 and it happened that when she sang 
 the brave she loved was far enough 
 away to feel no disturbance from the 
 music. The tale goes on to say that 
 she could distinguish his cries amid 
 the shouts of the returning warriors ; 
 but one day she missed his voice, for 
 an enemy's arrow had pierced his heart, 
 and after his body had been placed 
 against a tree, facing his enemies, the 
 rest of the tribe left him and came 
 home. The heart of the girl with the 
 long name hushed its beatings, and all 
 its warm emotions were chilled and 
 dead. The spirit of her beloved war- 
 rior she witnessed continually beckon- 
 ing her to follow him to the happy 
 hunting grounds of spirits in the West; 
 he appeared to her in human shape, 
 but was invisible to others of his tribe. 
 
 One morning her body was found 
 mangled at the foot of the bluff. The 
 soul had thrown aside its covering of 
 earth, and gone to join the spirit of 
 her beloved brave, to travel together 
 to the land of spirits. 
 
 chimney rock 
 
 is a very remarkable freak of Nature. 
 A foot-path which leads from the beach 
 near the base of Lover's Leap to the 
 plateau above brings you to the Daven- 
 port farm, now owned by the Mackinac 
 Island Summer Resort Association, 
 where a miniature village of elegant 
 
S FECI A L FEA TURES AT MA CKINA C. 
 
 53 
 
 summer cottages has been built, to 
 which additions are made each season. 
 A central building is used as a dining- 
 hall, from which meals are furnished 
 at very near cost. Eighty acres have 
 been neatly laid out and platted, and 
 lots for the erection of cottages can be 
 purchased on very advantageous terms. 
 Improvements already aggregate many 
 thousands of dollars. 
 
 Mackinac's exquisite scenery. 
 
 From many pens whose touch has 
 been inspired by the beauty of this 
 *' Island of the Dancing Fairies," I 
 gather these descriptions of its charms: 
 The natural scenery of the Island of 
 Mackinac is unsurpassed. Nature 
 seems to have exhausted herself in the 
 clustered objects of interest which 
 everywhere meet the eye. The lover 
 of Nature may wander through the 
 shaded glens, and climb over the rug- 
 ged rocks of this island for weeks, and 
 even months, and never grow weary; 
 for each day some new object of 
 beauty and interest will attract his at- 
 tention. As you approach the island 
 it appears a perfect gem. A finer sub- 
 ject for an artist's pencil could not be 
 found. In some places it rises almost 
 perpendicularly 
 from the very water' s 
 edge to the height 
 of one hundred and 
 fifty feet, while 
 in others the 
 
 ascent is gradual. Parts of the island 
 are covered with a small growth of 
 hard-wood trees — beech, maple, iron- 
 wood, birch, etc. — while other parts 
 abound in a rich variety of ever- 
 greens, among which spruce, arbor- 
 vitae, ground-pine, white-pine, balsam 
 and juniper predominate. 
 
 Henry R. Schoolcraft, who first 
 visited the island in 1820, thus speaks 
 of it: 
 
 " Nothing can exceed the beauty of 
 this island. It is a mass of calcareous 
 rock, rising from the bed of Lake 
 Huron, and reaching an elevation of 
 more than three hundred feet above 
 the water. The waters around are 
 purity itself. Some of its cliffs shoot 
 up perpendicularly, and tower in pin- 
 nacles, like ruined Gothic steeples. 
 It is cavernous in some places; and in 
 these caverns the ancient Indians, like 
 those of India, have placed their dead. 
 Portions of the beach are level, and 
 adapted to landing from boats and 
 canoes. The harbor, at its south end, 
 is a little gem. Vessels anchor in it, 
 and find good holding. The little, 
 old-fashioned French town nestles 
 around it in a very primitive style. 
 The fort frowns above it, like another 
 
 Alhambra, its white 
 walls gleaming in 
 the sun. The whole 
 area of the 
 island is one 
 labyrinth of 
 curious little 
 glens and 
 valleys. Old 
 green fields 
 ~ appear, in 
 
 some s{)ots, which have been for- 
 merly cultivated by the Indians. 
 
SPECIAL FEATURES AT MACKINAC. 
 
 55 
 
 In some of these there are circles of 
 gathered-up stones, as if the Druids 
 themselves had dwelt here. The soil, 
 though rough, is fertile, being the com- 
 minuted materials of broken-down 
 limestones. The island was formerly 
 covered with a dense growth of rock 
 maples, oaks, iron-wood, and other 
 hard- wood species; and there are still 
 parts of this ancient forest left, but all 
 the southern limits of it exhibit a 
 voung growth. There are Avalks and 
 winding paths among its little hills, 
 and precipices of the most romantic 
 character. And whenever the visitor 
 gets on eminences overlooking the lake, 
 he is transported with sublime views 
 of a most illimitable and magnificent 
 water prospect. If the poetic muses 
 are ever to have a new Parnassus in 
 America, they should inevitably fix on 
 Michilimackinac. Hygeia, too, should 
 place her temple here; for it has one 
 of the purest, driest, clearest and 
 most healthful atmospheres." 
 
 It is a tourist's paradise. Rising 
 grandly from the mighty channel, in 
 Avhich the waters of two of earth's 
 greatest unsalted oceans — Huron and 
 Michigan — meet and blend in eter- 
 nal billowy harmony, Mackinac Island 
 (nearly nine miles in circumference) 
 towers at its highest point over three 
 hundred feet above the waves that 
 lave its snowy feet. 
 
 A sail around the island in any of 
 the little steamers or yachts that are 
 always at command presents a con- 
 tinuous succession of charming views, 
 but none is more striking than that on 
 entering the harbor at its southern end. 
 The beautiful bay is crescent-shaped, 
 and its waters are so clear that a white 
 marble or a silver quarter can be dis- 
 tinctly seen at a depth of from twenty 
 to fifty feet. Myriads of fish are 
 plainly visible as they cleave their way 
 through the liquid crystal. 
 
 Overlooking the bay, the tall white 
 cliffs with their back-ground of wav- 
 ing forest; the fort, with its massive 
 Avails of whitewashed stone, clinging 
 picturesquely to the brow of the preci- 
 pice; the straggling little town at its 
 
 feet, strongly recalling visions of Italian 
 fishing villages; the long rambling 
 hotels, with verandas above and beloAv; 
 the neat residences, Avith their grass- 
 plots and shrubbery, fountains and 
 flowers, mingling among buildings that 
 have been historic for three genera- 
 tions; and, as a frontispiece to it all, 
 the Avide, smooth, gently-sloping beach 
 of snowy sand on Avhich the sunlit 
 Avaters ever play, all combine to form 
 a picture that, once seen, is never for- 
 gotten. 
 
 " The natural scenery of Mackinac 
 is charming," Avrites Constance Feni- 
 more Woolson, Avhose admirable story 
 of Anne is a local as well as a national 
 classic. " The geologist finds myster- 
 ies in the masses of calcareous rock 
 dipping at unexpected angles; the anti- 
 quarian feasts his eyes on theDruidical 
 circles of ancient stones; the invalid 
 sits on the cliff's edge, in the vivid sun- 
 shine, and breathes in the buoyant air 
 with delight, or rides slowly over the 
 old military roads, with the spicer}^ of 
 cedars and juniper alternating with the 
 fresh forest odors of young maples 
 and beeches. The haunted birches 
 abound, and on the crags grow the 
 Aveird larches, beckoning Avith their 
 long fingers — the most human tree of 
 all. Bluebells, on their hair-like stems, 
 SAving from the rocks, fading at a 
 touch, and in the deep Avoods are the 
 Indian pipes, but the ordinary wild- 
 flowers are not to be found. Over to- 
 Avard the British Landing stand the 
 Gothic spires of the blue-green spruces, 
 and now and then an Indian trail 
 crosses the road, Avorn deep by the 
 feet of the red men when the Fairy 
 Island was their favorite and sacred 
 resort." 
 
 On the edge of a perpendicular 
 precipice of white limestone, a hun- 
 dred and fifty-five feet high, just back 
 of the town, is the fort Avhich, in pict- 
 uresque beauty of location, has no rival 
 among all the fortresses of the United 
 States. Its position somewhat resem- 
 bles that of Fort Snelling, but is much 
 more romantic. Magnificent views 
 of the surrounding lakes, channels. 
 
56 
 
 DULUTH SOUTH SHORE &> ATLANTIC RAILWAY. 
 
 islands, promontories, forests, towns 
 and shipping are to be had from 
 every point on the lofty parapet; and 
 the world affords no grander sight 
 than a sunrise or sunset from the fort, 
 the great globe of crimson and gold 
 seeming at its rising to burst up from 
 the bosom of Lake Huron and at its 
 setting to plunge into the midst of 
 Lake Michigan, casting a million pris- 
 matic tints of glorious light on wave 
 and sky. It was of one of these gor- 
 geous sunset scenes that Longfellow 
 wrote : 
 
 " Can it be the sun descending 
 O'er the level plain of water? 
 Or the Red Swan floating, flying, 
 Wounded by the magic arrow, 
 
 Staining all the waves with crimson — 
 With the crimson of its life-blood; 
 Filling all the air with splendor — 
 With the splendor of its plumage ? " 
 
 In such a spot, with the glories of 
 earth and heaven unrolled before the 
 gaze; where the atmosphere is as pure 
 
 as the gales that wandered over pri- 
 meval paradise; where the temperature 
 is always cool enough to be bracing and 
 invigorating; where a mosquito never 
 was seen, nor malaria ever known; 
 where the inducements to constant ex- 
 ercise of every sense and sinew are as 
 boundless as the beauties of the place, 
 and where the healing fragrance of the 
 pine, the hemlock and balsam fir are 
 borne on every breeze, dyspepsia, lan- 
 guor and low spirits take flight at once, 
 hay-fever victims are at rest, and 
 catarrhs and asthmas mysteriously 
 disappeax. 
 
 The querulous invalid, before he 
 knows it, finds himself boating, fishing, 
 strolling, flirting like a Harvard fresh- 
 man. Well might Horace Mann, writ- 
 ing of the influence of " the wonderful 
 isle " say, " I never breathed such 
 an air before. I think this must be 
 some that came clear out of Eden 
 and did not get cursed." 
 
A CRADLE OF HISTORY. 
 
 The history that we venerate as 
 patriots is juvenile compared with the 
 chronicles and legends that distinguish 
 Mackinac and its neighborhood. When 
 all Southern Michigan yet lacked its 
 Marquette or its Stanley, Mackinac 
 was a missionary seat, a trader's post 
 and a garrisoned stronghold. From 
 Mackinac colonization spread through- 
 out the surrounding territory, Wiscon- 
 sin and even Minnesota being settled 
 by men who started from this citadel 
 of progress. Cadillac, founder of 
 Detroit (in 1701), had long com- 
 manded at Mackinac. Men alive to- 
 day recall when Chicago drew her sup- 
 plies from this place. 
 
 One thoughtful writer has well said 
 that this was by no chance or trick of 
 destiny; " Mackinac is a historical cen- 
 tre because it is a geographical centre. 
 Nature alone gave it its advantages, 
 and made it what it has been in his- 
 tory. For years the natural advan- 
 tages of Mackinac were overlooked, and 
 the surging wave of population rolled 
 across Southern Michigan and so on 
 to the westward. At the present time, 
 however, this region is rapidly rising 
 into favor, owing to the fact that it is 
 becoming better known and properly 
 appreciated." 
 
 The flags of three great nations have 
 successively floated over the post at 
 Michilimackinac, which has been the 
 theatre of many a bloody tragedy. Its 
 possession has been disputed by pow- 
 erful nations, and its internal peace has 
 continually been made the sport of 
 Indian treachery and Caucasian du- 
 plicity. One day chanting Te Dennis 
 beneath the ample folds of \he fleur- 
 de-lis, next yielding to the power of 
 the British Lion, now it rests peace- 
 . fully as the stars and stripes float over 
 
 its verdant battlements. Its historical 
 associations render it classic ground, 
 and the many wild traditions peopling 
 each rock and glen with spectral habi- 
 tants combine to throw around Mack- 
 inac an interest and sentimental attract- 
 iveness such as few if any other places 
 on the Western Continent possess. 
 
 As far back as history begins to 
 blend with traditions that reach into 
 the dimmest past, Mackinac Island has 
 been a place of great interest. A le- 
 gend relates that a large number of 
 Indians were once assembled at Point 
 St. Ignace, now the eastern terminus of 
 the DuLUTH, South Shore & Atlan- 
 tic Railway, and while intently gazing 
 at the rising sun, during the great Mani- 
 tou, or February Moon, they beheld 
 the island suddenly rise up from the 
 water, assuming its present form. From 
 the point of observation, it bore the 
 fancied resemblance to the back of a 
 huge turtle ; hence they called it by 
 the name of Mos-che-ne-mac-e-nung, 
 which means a great turtle. This name, 
 when put into a French dress, became 
 Michilimackinac, to be in turn again 
 abbreviated by the always-practical 
 English into Mackinac. 
 
 To revert to its legendary' interest: 
 According to Indian tradition, the 
 island is the birthplace of Menabosho, 
 the god of waters — the Hiawatha of 
 the Algonquin Indians. Indian my- 
 thology makes it the home of the Giant 
 Fairies, and the red men, in passing its 
 shores, made offerings of tobacco and 
 other articles to these spirits. These 
 fairies, we are told, had a subterranean 
 abode under the island, the entrance 
 to which was near the base of the hill, 
 just below the present southern gate of 
 the fort. An old Indian, who once 
 revisited the limits of the present 
 
58 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAIL WAV. 
 
 garrison, was believed by his kinsmen 
 to have had exceptional opportunity to 
 prove the truth of this tradition. These 
 were the circumstances : During the 
 night, while he was wrapped in slum- 
 ber, one of the spirits laid his shadowy 
 hand upon him and beckoned him to 
 follow. In obedience to the myste- 
 rious request, the Indian's soul parted 
 from his body and went with the fair}-. 
 Together they entered the mystic dwell- 
 ing place of the spirits, and the Indian 
 was introduced to the great spirits as- 
 sembled in solemn conclave. He was 
 lost in wonder and admiration at what 
 he saw around him, and he described 
 the place where they were assembled 
 as a very large and beautiful wigwam. 
 Beyond that, he simply asserted that, 
 after a time, the master spirit of the 
 assembly directed one of the lesser 
 spirits to conduct him back to his 
 body. The story is chiefly interesting 
 to me as showing that it was as easy to 
 concoct a spiritualistic story then as it 
 is to-day — and just as easy to make 
 some folks believe it afterwards ! 
 
 The ''Ancient Miners" of Upper 
 Michigan, presumably connected with 
 the " Mound-builders" of the Missis- 
 sippi Valley, and with the Toltecs and 
 Aztecs of old Mexico, may have had 
 an agricultural outpost at St. Ignace 
 or Mackinac Island. The vestiges of 
 a mound have been traced in the 
 neighborhood of Point La Barbe. No 
 tradition, however, referring to that 
 people is found among our Indians. 
 The earliest inhabitants known to them 
 were of their own kind, the Mishini- 
 makinago, /. e., " the people of Mishi- 
 nimakina." 
 
 In 167 1, Father Marquette, pioneer 
 and priest, wrote that " Michilimack- 
 inac is an island famous in these 
 regions, of more than a league in di- 
 ameter, and elevated in some places by 
 such high cliffs as to be seen more than 
 twelve leagues off. It is situated just 
 in the strait forming the communica- 
 tion between Lake Huron and Illinois 
 (Michigan). It is the key and, as it 
 were, the gate for all the tribes from 
 the south, as the Sault is for those of the 
 
 north, there being in this section of 
 country only those two passages by 
 water ; for a great number of nations 
 have to go by one or other of these 
 channels, in order to reach the French 
 settlements. This presents a peculiarly 
 favorable opportimity both for instruct- 
 ing those Avho pass here, and also for 
 obtaining easy access and conveyance 
 to their places of abode." 
 
 Father Marquette was doubtless the 
 first white man to visit it or, at least, 
 to dwell upon it. He established a 
 school on the island in 167 1, for the 
 education of the Indian youths, and so 
 much was he attached to '* the Straits " 
 that, when he died in 1675, it was at 
 his request his Indian converts brought 
 his body back to the little mission es- 
 tablished by him at St. Ignace. 
 
 The first vessel ever seen on these 
 waters was the " Grifiin," built by the 
 explorer, La Salle, on Lake Erie, in 
 1678. 
 
 In 1695, Cadillac, who still later 
 founded Detroit, established a small 
 fort here. Then came contests and 
 skirmishes, not unmingled with massa- 
 cres, until finally Mackinac, with all 
 the other French strongholds on the 
 lakes, was surrendered to the English 
 in September, 1761. In 1763 began 
 the conspiracy of Pontiac — a cotip de 
 guerre wonderful for the sagacity with 
 which it was planned and the rigor 
 with which it was executed. Pontiac 
 was the most remarkable Indian of all 
 the lake tribes. He was a firm friend 
 of the French, and, to aid their cause, 
 arranged a simultaneous attack upon 
 all the English forts in the lake coun- 
 try. Eleven posts were assaulted and 
 eight were captured. 
 
 Fort Michilimackinac was among 
 the latter. Three ofiicers and thirty- 
 five men defended it. A band of 
 Chippewas, while playing a game of 
 ball just outside of the fort, knocked 
 the ball, as if by accident, so that it 
 fell inside the stockade; the play- 
 ers rushed after it, and seizing their 
 weapons from squaws, who had them 
 concealed under their blankets, and 
 had previousl}' entered the fort as a part 
 
A CRADLE OF HISTORY. 
 
 59 
 
 of the plot, they raised the war-whoop 
 and fell upon the garrison. A lieuten- 
 ant and fifteen men were killed, and a 
 captain and the rest of the garrison 
 were taken prisoners, to be ransomed 
 aftenvards. 
 
 A year afterwards, a 'treaty of peace 
 having been made with the Indians, 
 troops were again sent to raise the 
 English flag over the fort. The pres- 
 ent fort on Mackinac Island was built 
 by the English in 1780. By a treaty 
 of peace between Great Britain and 
 the United States September 3, 1783, 
 the island fell within the boundary of 
 the United States, but under various 
 pretences the English refused to with- 
 draw their troops. By a second treaty 
 concluded November 19, 1794, it was 
 stipulated that the British should with- 
 draw on or before June I, 1797. Two 
 companies of U. S. troops arrived in 
 October, 1796, and took possession, 
 a previous treaty with the Indians hav- 
 ing secured from them the post. Dur- 
 ing the war of 18 12 the island was 
 again surrendered to the British. After 
 the victor}' of Commodore Perry on 
 Lake Erie in 18 13, an effort was made 
 to recapture it, but the troops sent 
 were insufficient in numbers, and not 
 until 1 8 14 was the American flag 
 
 again hoisted over the Ciibraltar of 
 the lakes. 
 
 In savage minds Mackinac's superb 
 position was appreciated, then the mis- 
 sionaries made it their chief pulpit, 
 next civilized warfare made it a coveted 
 stronghold, later it became a commer- 
 cial centre. I now refer to its connec- 
 tion with the fur trade carried on bv 
 John Jacob Astor, Esq., of New York. 
 Mr. Astor organized the American Fur 
 Company, with a capital of two mil- 
 lion dollars. It had no chartered right 
 to a monopoly of the Indian trade, 
 yet by its wealth and influence it long 
 controlled that trade. The outposts 
 of the company were scattered through- 
 out the whole west and northwest. 
 This island was the great central mart 
 to which the goods were brought from 
 New York by way of the lakes, and 
 from Quebec and Montreal by way of 
 the Ottawa, Lake Nipissing and French 
 River. From this point they were dis- 
 tributed to all the outposts; while 
 from all the Indian countries the furs 
 were annually brought down to the 
 island by the company's agents, 
 whence they were sent to New York, 
 Quebec or to Europe. This com- 
 pany was organized in 1809 and con- 
 tinued to do business until 1848. 
 
THE JOURNEY RESUMED. 
 
 Sault Ste. Marie: Taking the 
 left fork from Sault Junction, a 
 picturesque run of forty-seven miles 
 carries our tourists to Sault Ste. Marie 
 where once again we touch ground 
 pregnant with historical memories and 
 associations deserving mention pres- 
 ently. The town has several fine 
 hotels, from whose balconies the visitor 
 can watch the roaring, dashing, foam- 
 ing rapids, with genuine Indians in the 
 foreground, who, in their light canoes, 
 skillfully dip the shining whitefish 
 from its element. These Indian boat- 
 men are serviceable in contributing to 
 a sport which for dash and exhilarating 
 effect cannot be excelled — " shooting 
 the rapids" — an experience never to 
 be missed and always to be remem- 
 bered. It is a trip having more ap- 
 parent than real danger. The Indian 
 pilots have spent their entire lives on 
 and about the rapids, know almost 
 eyery rock in them, and so skillful have 
 they become in the use of their pad- 
 dles, that not one accident is recorded. 
 
 The lake boats (carrying a com- 
 merce greater than passes the Suez 
 Canal), and continually in sight of the 
 tourist as he sits on his hotel piazza, or 
 walks the walls of the greatest locks 
 in the world, are a source of unfailing 
 interest and instruction. The locks 
 in the foreground, the foaming rapids, 
 the Canadian islands beyond, with 
 rocks and evergreens striving for place, 
 the old Hudson Bay Company's trad- 
 ing post, and rising in the background 
 the Canadian hills, emerald and bold, 
 make a landscape well worth seeing 
 and certain to be enjoyed. 
 
 During the summer season there are 
 almost innumerable excursions to be 
 taken from the Sault — to Bruce Mines, 
 to Point aux Pins, to Garden River, to 
 Little Rapids and last, but not least, to 
 *' go fishing." 
 
 Here, too, connection is made with 
 the Canadian Pacific Railway for all 
 eastern points. This line, following 
 the river and lake shore for miles, 
 with only a short portage between the 
 waters of Lake Nipissing and "Uta- 
 wa's flowing tide," forms the most 
 picturesque route to the eastern sea- 
 board. To reach its tracks our train 
 must cross the great International 
 Railway bridge built at an expense of 
 over half a million dollars. Here, too, 
 connection is made with the steamship 
 lines for all points on Lake Huron 
 and the Georgian Bay, with the Lake 
 Superior Transit Co. for Buffalo, the 
 Lake Michigan & Lake Superior Co. 
 for Chicago, and the boats of the 
 Delta Transportation Co. for Mack- 
 inac, Cheboygan and Petoskey. 
 
 The name "Sault Ste. Marie" is 
 French, and means the rapids or falls 
 of the Saint Mary River. The name 
 is as variously pronounced as there are 
 letters in its composition. Often I 
 have heard it called " Salt Ste. Mary " 
 and even "Susan Mary." But the 
 correct pronunciation is of course 
 " So-Saint-Marie," with as little or as 
 much accent on the "r-i-e" as you 
 please, according as you wish to seem 
 French, or a little French, or very, very 
 French indeed. 
 
 The traditions of the Ojibways in- 
 dicate that the French traders earned 
 the rare honor of reaching this point 
 before the Jesuits. The latter first 
 looked upon Sault Ste. Marie in 1641, 
 naming it Sault de Gaston in honor of 
 the young brother of the King of 
 France. In 1660 Father Mesnard 
 passed up the rapids into Lake Su- 
 perior. Claude Dablou and James 
 Marquette arrived in 1668, and 
 founded a mission among the Indians, 
 calling it Sault Ste. Marie. Thus it 
 claims the distinction of being the 
 
THE JOURNEY RESUMED. 
 
 6i 
 
 oldest town in Michigan. In 1689 the 
 mission was abandoned owing to the 
 growing importance of Mackinac as a 
 fur-trading centre. It was not until 
 the middle of the next century that 
 the little, shrinking hamlet, buried from 
 a busier world amid trackless forests 
 and beside untraveled seas, earned 
 mention anew in the chronicles of the 
 historians. 
 
 In 1750 the French Governor of 
 Canada, Jonquiere, gave to his nephew, 
 Capt. de Bonne and Chevalier de Re- 
 pentigny a grant of land bordering 
 upon the rapids and river Ste. Marie 
 six leagues, on condition that a pali- 
 sade fort should be erected. This 
 was built, and a farm was cleared and 
 stocked with cattle, but the attempt to 
 raise Indian corn was not successful. 
 The chief purpose of the post was to 
 prevent the Indians of Lake Superior 
 from going down to Oswego where 
 they received presents from the Eng- 
 lish and were being seduced from their 
 allegiance to the French. It had 
 hardly been completed before the 
 French and Indian war broke out, and 
 Bonne and Repentigny left the post 
 in charge of Jean Baptiste Cadeau. 
 Upon the surrender of Mackinac to 
 the British in 1762 a detachment un- 
 der Lieut. Jeannette proceeded to take 
 possession of the post at the Sault. He 
 met with no opposition, but as, in De- 
 cember of that year, fire destroyed 
 the whole station, Cadotte was left 
 in undisputed possession. During the 
 Pontiac conspiracy Cadotte was 
 friendly to the British, and his wife, 
 who was of unusual force of character, 
 prevented the re-capture of Alexander 
 Henry, the only Englishman who sur- 
 vived the massacre of Old Mackinac. 
 
 In 1802 a British post was re-estab- 
 lished here. During the war of 181 2 
 a band was organized under John 
 Johnston at Sault Ste. Marie to go to 
 the assistance of the British at Mack- 
 inac, who were being hard pressed by 
 the Americans. The latter had their 
 revenge, however. The schooner 
 "Scorpion" in Jul}-, 1814, landed a 
 force of infantry under Major Holmes 
 
 at the Sault. He burned the trading 
 post to the ground. Johnston and 
 his company escaped down the Hay 
 Lake channel. Governor Cass visited 
 the place in 1820, and on his recom- 
 mendation General Hugh Brady was 
 sent in 1822 to found a garrison, which 
 has since borne his name, Fort Brady. 
 The discovery and development of 
 the mineral resources of the Upper 
 Peninsula of Michigan rendered the 
 demands of Lake Superior so impera- 
 tive and urgent that the construction 
 of a ship canal around the rapids at 
 Sault Ste. Marie became a practical 
 necessity. Governor Mason in 1837 
 advised the building of such a canal, 
 and work was begun in the following 
 year. The military authorities, how- 
 ever, considered the work an infringe- 
 ment upon the right of the General 
 Government and an armed force drove 
 the contractors off the ground. The 
 construction was not resumed until 
 1853. The contract called for two 
 consecutive locks three hundred and 
 fifty feet long, seventy feet wide and 
 with a depth of thirteen feet of water 
 and with proper approaches. On the 
 2 1 St of May, 1850, this canal was 
 completed at a cost of $999,802.46. 
 It resulted in adding Lake Superior 
 to that system of water-ways which is 
 the pride of the northern border. 
 Sault Ste. Marie lost much of its com- 
 mercial prestige as a result, but in 1870 
 the building of a new lock by the 
 General Government gave it a new im- 
 petus. This was completed in 1881, 
 and now a third one has been ren- 
 dered necessary by the increasing 
 traffic, and Congress has just appro- 
 priated more than $3,000,000 for its 
 completion. This third lock will be 
 eight hundred feet long inside of the 
 gates, one hundred feet wide and 
 twenty-one feet deep. A pier is to be 
 constructed in front of Fort Brady, 
 and the present pier extended 1000 
 feet. A power canal is also being con- 
 structed which will have Lake Su- 
 perior for a supply basin and the 
 source of a power estimated at over 
 700,000 horse power and capable of 
 
62 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAIL WAV. 
 
 furnishing unlimited power for manu- 
 factories. 
 
 And so our journey ends. 
 
 In concluding these notes of it, I re- 
 main convinced that no traveler can 
 conceive a more romantic and interest- 
 ing picture than is presented by this 
 region. Lake Superior was better 
 known than any other of the great 
 lakes two hundred and fifty years ago. 
 On Cham plain's map, in 1632, it is 
 tolerably perfect ; on Joliet's map of 
 1673 it is more accurately outlined; in 
 Father Marquette's map even the isl- 
 ands and rivers are shown ; yet to- 
 day miles upon miles of its picturesque 
 shores remain unexplored and still 
 offer unequalled attractions and de- 
 lights to all interested in the beauties 
 and mysteries of Nature. It is the 
 womb of industries, cities and resorts 
 that will constitute an empire scarcely 
 suggested by the present outposts of 
 progress. And yet it already is hemmed 
 about with aspiring communities and 
 gigantic industries, and on its confines 
 are railways and water-ways of sufficient 
 
 number and capacity to enforce devel- 
 opment rapidly and permanently. 
 
 You have seen, with me, what ap- 
 peals this grand region makes to the 
 tourist, the settler, the mechanic, the 
 capitalist, the invalid, the sportsman 
 — with rod or gun. Its invitations are 
 to the world. There are few who will 
 not feel repaid if they heed the call. 
 
 It is in the nature of such a work as this 
 that some of its lesser parts shall leave the 
 author beholden to many minds and sources 
 for hard facts, for technical notes, and even 
 for casual comments, upon the places it 
 would not have paid him or any one else to 
 have visited and studied. We have mar- 
 keted with discretion, and have usually 
 paid for our purchases with the small coin 
 of acknowledgment. 
 
 If this is understood, then — as old Heylin 
 said — 
 
 " Heart, take thine ease — 
 Men hard to please 
 
 Thou haply mightst offend ; 
 Though some speak ill 
 Of thee, some will 
 
 Say better — there's an end." 
 
 The Author. 
 N. Y., April 12. 
 
mSZZ CONGRESS 
 
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