Our County and Its People A HISTORY OF THE VALLEY AND COUNTY OF CHEMUNG From thk Closing Years of the Eighteenth Centuky BY AUSBURN TOWNER Author ok 'Chedayne of Kotono," "Seven Days in a Pullman Car. '• In the Shadow of a Sin." Etc., Etc. SYRACUSE, N. Y. D. MASON & CO., PUBLISHHKS 1892 \ 4f 3rc>3 'Of PRESS OF D. MASON & CO., SYRACUSE, N. Y. PREFACE. \A ORE than forty years ago the writer began, in rather an ini- / V mature and aimless way of course, not the labor, — for it was no labor, rather a recreation and an amusement, — of gathering together facts and incidents that had preceded his time in the valley of the Chemung, and of keeping close track of men and events in the locality that was his home. He little dreamed that the outcome of it all would ever be the beautiful book that the publishers now lay before the people of our county. In its mechanical execution — for it becomes him to speak in this manner only of the setting of the work — tlie book is worthy of those of whom it treats and a valley which is not sur- passed by any other spot on the face of the earth. The people of Chemung County are peculiarly loyal to their locality, and they would have everything that touches them or it of the first order of merit. The publishers, so far as tliey are concerned, have succeeded unques- tionably in this respect. There may be some things in what follows relating to the early history of the valley that do not tally or harmonize with what have been for years considered to be accepted facts. Rut every incident that is related of those or later times has been verified from sources that will admit of no question. Many a good story has been omit- ted that has only tradition or hearsay for a foundation. The book, then, is laid before the people of Chemung County as an accurate and thorough record of the times that have preceded us in this locality, and is, in some way, a memorial of the one hundredth anniversary of the formation of this part of the State into a county by itself. AUSBURN TOWNEK. Elmira, N. Y., yanuar}', nggz. CONTENTS. PART I. The Vai.i-kv and Codntv of CnKMUNG During the Closing Ykahs of tiik Kight- KKNTH Century 19-82 CHAPTER I. Why the Valley remained so long Unknown — Some previous Occupants — The Spaniards — Joseph Smith — Fort Hill — The " Hogbacks " — The Aborig- ines of the Valley — Red Jacket — " Cornplanter" — The Indian Villages of the Valley — "Canaweola" — Its Legend — Its Location — Its Cultivated Fields — The Peculiar and Favorable location of the Valley — Meaning of the name '' Chemung " — Its Application to other Matters. . . 19-28 CHAPTER H. The Valley in 177S — A Rendezvous for Tories and Indians who were at the Wy- oming Massacre — Gen. John Sullivan — The Battle he fought at Chemung — The Important re.sulLi of that Kngagenient — What an advance Detachment of hisArmy did — Lieut. John Jenkins — The American Army enters the Val- ley — Gen. James Clinton — Maj. Nicholas Fish — Gen. Enoch Poor — The Rev. Samuel Kirkland — John L. Hardenburgh — How the Battle was Won — Canaweola the Ancient name of the Locality of the City of Elmira — Fort Reid built There. ^ — The return of the .Vrmy from the North — Horseheads — A great Celebration at Fort Reid — The Army leaves the Valley. . . 28-38 CHAPTER HI. Immigration to the Valley begun — The earliest Settlers — Major William Wyn- koop — Elijah Buck — Lebeus Hammond — His escapes from the Indians — '■Queen Esther" — Col. John Hendy -- John Konkle and his Family — Gen. John Uathorn and his Family — Commissioners surveying the Valley — The Township of Chemung Erected — The Departure of the Indians — "Jim" Cornelison — Indebtedness of Chemung County to Wilkesbarre, Pa. — The first Tea parly in the Valley — ^ John Breese, the first Settler of Horseheads, and his Family — The Famine of 17SU — Chemung Township — Something concerning the old County of Montgomery. ...... 3t<-52 6 OUR COUNTY AND ITS PEOPLE. CHAPTER IV. Chemung as a Township — Selecting the site for a future City — Col. Matthias Hol- lenbacU — His part in the Development of the Region — The Men he sent into the Valley — Guy Maxwell and his Family — Thomas Maxwell — Thomas Mifflin Perry — Newtown and Wisnerburg — Henry Wisner and his Family — Tioga County organized — Newtown a halt-.shire Town — The Great Treaty with the Si.K Nations — Col. Timothy Pickering, who Negotiated It — Daniel F. Pickering — Early Physicians and Lawyers — Vincent Matthews and his Family — Dr. Amos Park — Dr. Joseph Hinchmau — -The Lowinan Family — Andrew Gregg and his Descendants — John Sly — The Township of New- town Erected. o;5-69 CHAPTER V. The Site of the new Court- House — The first Court — Uses to which the Building was Put — Habits of the early Settlers — Origin of the Presbyterian Church — Poetical Description of the Court- House — First Clergymen — Union Lodge, No. .30, F. and A. M., Organized — Its Masters — Nathan Teall — His Family — His daughter Elmira, from whom the City takes its Name — Its Etymology — Nathaniel Seeley — William Dunn — The Valley visited by Louis Philhppe — Catherine township Organized — The Bennetts — Comfort Bennett — Will- iam HolTman — County officers for the Period — Conclusion. . . 70-82 PART II. TuE County of Chemung During ti:e First Half of the Nineteenth Cent- ury 8.5-195 CHAPTER I. Early Enterprises, someof which were not Successful — Manufacturing, Insurance, and Railroad Companies — Roads and Bridges — The old Ferry and its. Master, John Kline — Building the Lake Street Bridge — A curious Character con- \ nected with It — Clinton Island and its forgotten Beauties and Uses — New ^Settlers — John Hughes — His distinguished Sons — The Rev. Simeon R. Jones — Continuing the Record of the Presbyterian Church — The Jones J Family — The Smith Family — Dr. Elias Satterlee. .... 85-99 CHAPTER H. Changes in the Civil Organizations of the County — Elmira Named — Adjusting the Locality of the County Clerk's Oflice — Dr. Jotham Piirdy — New Towns CONTENTS. 7 Formt'il — Ciilliii — Veteran — Big Flats — Dix — Soutliport — Cayiita — Pre- paring for llie new County — A new Court-IIouse — What it was Like — The "Jail Limits" — The I'oor-IIoiise — Organizing a Methodist Chnroh — Isaac Roe and his Family — The First ML-thodist Class — Methodist Ministers — Dr. J. Dornian Steele — Klias S. Huntley — Other prominent Methodists — Rohert Covell and his Family — Stephen Tuttle — John Arnot and his Family — Dr. Erastus L. Hart — Capt. Samuel Partridge 100-118 CHAPTER III. Internal Improvement.s — Dams Authorized to be Built — Charley Bird, who be- came a Mormon — An Ice Freshet — I.-iaac Baldwin — The Hatch Family — David Reynolds and his Descendants — The Chemung Canal — Enthusiasm caused by its Completion — Judge Caleb Baker — 'Squire Robinson — Changes made by the Canal — The "Feeder" — Horseheads an Important " Port " — Boat Building — Capt. Henry C. Spauldmg — Capt. Eli S. Wlieeler, the In- ventor of the Sleeping Car — Judge Hiram Gray — Gen. Alexander S. Diven — Green M. Tuthill — Col. Samuel G. Hathaway, jr. — James L. Woods — Judge Ariel Standish Thurston — Miss Clarissa Thurston. . . 118-132 CHAPTER IV. The Stage-coach Period iti the History of the Valley — Cooley & Maxwell — Levi J. Cooley — The " Eagle Tavern " — Silas Haight — Other old Hotels — Pub- lic Halls from the earliest Times — Mechanics Hall — Paitiu.son Hall — The El- mira aneen State Senators — Senator George B. Guinnip — Mi-nibers of Assem- bly — Hon. Robert P. Bush — Coiintv .Jud-.'cs. District Attorneys, and other Officers of the County. 346-382 chapti:r v. Amusements of the Village and City of Elmira — The New Opera House — Mr. and Mrs. D. W. Waller — Old-time Dramas and Actors — Circuses — Where their Tents were Spread — Horse-racing — Old-time Tracks— •' Flora Temple" — "American Girl" — The Maple Avenue Driving Park — State Fairs in Elmira — The Elmira Farmers Club — William A. .\rmstrong — The HushnnJ- man — Restaurant* — The first one in Elmira — George Jones — The Street Railway — Celebration of the Centennial Anniversary of the Battle of New- town — Ex-Governor Lucius Robinson — .Militia organizations of the Cownty — The One Huiulred and Tenth Battalion — The Thirtieth and Twenty-si.xth Separate Companies — A new Armory — The State Reformatory — Supt. Z. R. Brockway — Newspapi'is of the City and County — Some that have Been, but are Not — The Elmira Oazelte — The Elmira Advertiser — Col. Luther Caldwell — The great flood of June, 1889— The Elmira Tritgran, - Charles Hazard — H. S. Brooks — James Hill — The terrible Railroad disaster on the Erie at Tioga — The .fiTv^ninj Star. :{S3-109 12 OUR COUNTY AND ITS PEOPLE. PART V. The Townships 414-;)G8 CHAPTER I. An Elmii-a Town as well as an KliniraCity — Some interesting and irapoitant Lo- calities formerly within its Limits — Carr's Corners — The Reformatory — Eldridge Lake — Some of its distinguished Citizens — Gen. A. S. Diven, Judge Hiram Gray, the Guinnips, Carrs, McCanns, and Others — Dr. Gleason's Water Cure — Mark Twain's summer Home — East Elmira Postoffice and its Postmasters — The Junction Canal — Early official records of the Town lost or Destroyed 414-418 CHAPTER n. The Town of Southport — Early Grants of Land — First Settlers — The Millers, Griswolds, McHenrys, and Smiths — David Griswold and his family — Abra- ham Miller— Abner M. Hetfield and his Family — Capt. Samuel Tuthill— The " Connecticut Gore" — Early School-Houses — First Enterprises in the local- ity — Organization of the Township — Town Officers — Prolific Nature of the Soil of the Town — Its large Lumber and Tobacco Interests — The portion of the Township that became a part of the City of Elmira — Dr. Nathan Boyn- ton and his Family — Webb's Mills — Its Early Settlers — "Southport Cor- ners " — Those who came there First — Seeley Creek — " Bulkhead " Hotel — / Hendy Creek — AVells ■- The Plank Road. ... . 419-143 CHAPTER HI. The Town of Chemung, the original Civil Organization of the County — Description of its Location — Its Products — Fruit and Tobacco Culture — Organization and early Officers — Curious Records — What attracted the early Settlers — Isaac Baldwin, the first Comer — His Family — "Sergeant Tom " and his numerous Exploits — Waterman Baldwin — His Life and Character— The Wynkoops, Ruok.s, McDowells, Burts, and Warrens ^ — The Hon. John G. Mc- Dowell and his Family — Israel Parshall, the Beidlemans, and Thomas Keeney — Pioneers who lived to great Ages — An old patent for Land — Thomas Burt ^ Early Saw and Flouring-Mills — Lumbering Interests — First Houses built in the Town — Early mail Facilities — Early schools and school Teachers — Early Churches — The Postoffice and its Postmasters — Early and present Busi- ness places in Chemung Village — J. S. Holbert — Churches of the Town — The Methodists and their Pastors — Masonry in Chemung — School Districts — Town Officers 444-466 CONTENTS. 13 CHAPTER IV. The Earliest Settlers of the Town of Horseheads — John and Hannah Breese and their Family — Tlie Say res — Jonathan S. Conkling and Others — Soldiers Claims — E. rHommedieu — The Westlakes — A Locality whose Citizens reach very advanced Ages — Owen O'Hanlon and his Family — Early Busi- ness Enterprises — Lively impulse given to the Region by the Construction of the Chemung Canal — The first Boats — Rapid growth of the Village of Horseheads — The Fire of August, 18G2 — Village OlEcers — The Horseheads Fire. Department — Churches of the Village — Organization of the Township — Schools — Masonry m Horseheads — Manufacturing and other Enterprises — The enormous Brick interests of the Town — Breesport — Its early History and first Settlers — Its business Enterprises and Churches — The County House / — Cemeteries of the Township. 467-402 CHAPTER V. The Town of the " Great Plains" that was Modernized into Big Flats — Who came first to take up the Lands quitted by the Redmen — Christian Myneer — Events that marked his Pioneer Life — Where the early settlers Located — Aged Men — Organization of the Town — The Town Officers — Highways and Bridges — Schools — Churches — Cemeteries — Masonry in the Town — Other So- cieties — Big Flats Village — The Lumbering and Tobacco Interests — Suc- cessful Enterprises — Interestmg and Peculiar Events and Incidents in the History of the Town 4!);i-504 CHAPTER VI. Ashland the latest of the Towns to be Organized — How it got its Name — The^ Monument tliat marks the Sullivan Battlefield — Early settlers of the Town- Green Bently — Nathan Roberts — Je.sse Carpenter ^Eunice Kelsey, the first White Child born m the Town — The first Tavern and the first Church — The old Graveyard — Wellsburg, Ashland's only Village — Abner Wells and his Family, from whom the Place gets its Name — Bently Creek and its Water- Power — First business Enterprises ^ T/ater Comers — Richard Calon Lock- wood — Oldest Residents — George W. Roberta — Wellsburg's business Men — The Postoffice and its Postmasters — OIBoers of the Village — The Baptist Church, the oldest Religious Society in the V\illey — Elder Roswell Qoll" — Wellsburg's other Churches — Lowmanville or Lowman's — Its Postoffice and Postmasters — Its Industries — Dairying and Tobacco raising m Ashland — Favorable promises for Petroleum near Wellsburg — Organization of the i Tow» and its Officers. ... .'.(M-.VJl 14 OUR COUNTY AND ITS PEOPLE. CHAPTER VII. The Town of Van Etten — The Character of its original Products — First Settle- ments made by Hollanders and Scotchmen — Joel Thomas — Gen. Jacob Swartwood — His brothers Isaac and Emanuel — His father, Peter Swart- vpood — The Van Etten Family — Benjamin Ennis and his Sons — The fight- ing Westbrook Family — " Pony Hollow " — A woman who had the Reputa- tion of being a "Witch" — Organization of the Town — Town Officers — Van Ettenville — Its first Inhabitants — Its business Interests — Its Incorpo- ration — Officers Elected — Benevolent and other Societies — A disastrous Fire — Churches — A Swartwood Church — The first School in the Town — Present Schools — Their fine Character -- Enterprises that have helped make Van Etten prominent among the Towns in the County. . . , 521-532 CHAPTER VIII. The Town that gets its Name from the Baldwin Family — Its Situation — Neither Railroad nor Telegraph line within its Borders — Early Settlers — The Gran- / ger Brothers — Henry Tice — The Hammond Family — Elisha Hammond — Hammond's "Corners" — " Uncle Jerry" McCumber — John CoUson and his Sons — The Inman Family — Alfonso Lathrop — Levi Little — The original came of Lowmanville — A time when there were no Roads in the Town — How the early Settlers got to their new Homes — The Coopers — Most of the early Settlers of Baldwin soldiers of the War of 1812 — The first houses in the Town — Other first Events — County officers from the Town — North Che- mung Village — The Postmasters located There — Paul Collson — Aged Men of the Town — The Union Church — Methodism in Hammond's Corners — Its I early Beginnings — The Grangers — Hicks Postoffice — The first town Meet- ' ing — Town Officers. 532-541 CHAPTER IX. The Town that was named from a \'eteran of two Wars — Its Location and Pe- culiarities — Preserved Cooley, the first Settler — Green Bently, the Veteran — Localities .settled by New Englanders — Elder Ebenezer Mallory — An ea.-ly Woolen Manufactory — Organization of the Town and its Otiicers — The Road that OetHiral Sullivan laid Out — Other Highways — Pine Valley — Its Ear- lier Liilustries — Its Churches — Other Societies — Millport, originally Mill- vale, almost a rival to Elmira — Startling events in its History — Its Churches and Schools — Its benevolent and secret Societies — Sullivanville — Enter- prises at Ridge Farms — Postoffices of Veteran and Terry's Corners — A Town- ship deserving of the Name it Bears. ...... 542-554 CONTENTS. 15 CMAPTKR X. The situation, soil, and productions of the Town of Erin — Its early Settlers — "^ ifost ot tliem Soldiers of the War of 1812 — A roll of the taxable Inhabitants in 1823 — Town Oflicers — Postoflices and principal Settlements — Early re- ligious Influences — The Methodist Church — Erin's Schools, past and present — Business Enterprises — James H. Rodbourn — Secret and Charitable Soci- eties — Cemeteries — Scotchmen in Erin — Some interesting Facts worthy of Record , 554-562 CHAPTER XI The town of Catlin — Its Situation — Pioneers of the Town — A Locality the latest settled in the County — Those coming earl3' not staying very Long — Others who remained — The first Log House and the first School- House — The first Roa