Class Book • :\ f\' \ Gopyrigiit)^^ COFVRIGKT DEPOSin i 4 4 ^ <<^ Copyright, William G. Bovd, i88i. I'ress of C. a. Coffin & Rogers. New York. PRE FA CE. yj NA TIVE of Alabama, I have spent from the fall of 1868 to the summer of 1879, ^^^ interval of about ten years, in Texas. During that time I traveled over fiearly all the organized counties, and a considerable portion of the frontier, with occa- sional visits to Mexico and the Indian Territory. Since my return East I have so often been plied with ques-. tions by the restless and curious that I have concluded to give them a short account of zvhat I sazv and experienced in my rambles. In presenting for publication these reminiscences of so event- ful a period of my life, I lay no claim to any literary excel- lence. My aim is to give an unstudied profile of facts as I found them ; and having had originally no preconceived idea of ever publishing, I kept neither journal nor notes as data for reference. Consequently, tliroughout the entire tvork I have had to trust solely to memory. Always, however, have I tried to be accurate, especially in any positive statement. My pen has followed up the main trail of my rambles. I have taken paitis to avoid, as much as possible, those natural digressions zvhich, zvJiile interesting in tJiemselves, would make this work too long for a narrati^'c such as already described. a/ CONTENTS. PAGE Chapter I. — Getting under way g Chapter II. — Trip from Montgomery to Mobile, New Orleans and Gal- veston. Sea sick. Revolution of head and heels 1 1 Chapter III. — A walk through the island city. A sharp trick expertly played by a peddling boy. From Galveston to Bryan. First sight of the prairies. Texas mud. Rustic scenes. Poisoned by a spurious policeman. Res- cued by regular police. Relieved by a doctor 14 Chapter IV. — Continued rustic scenery. Superb camp-fires. Interviewed countrymen. Gander pulling 18 Chapter V. — Great self-importance. A tour around town in search of employment. Rebuff upon rebuff. My business ideas modified. Dis- consolate retreat. A restless night. Renewed applications for business employment. Cold rebuffs. A friendly, but disconsolate interview with a Virginian 22 Chapter VII. — Glowing accounts of cotton planting on the great Brazos. Adopted a new line of policy and business. Enthusiastic hopes and efforts. Riding on an ox-wagon. Mud, black mud, black adhesive mud. My first night in camp. Hideous, appalling, incomprehensible. Beau- tiful cotton-farms. Sandy prairies. Knoll in the heart of the bottom. Traits of the Freedman character 25 Chapter VIII. — Lonely ramble through the frontier. Narrow escape from Indians. I traveled all night. Abrupt approach on a Mexican ranch. Pursued by them. A running fight. A dubious herd of ponies. Rations out. A dismal evening followed by a stormy night. Lost my hat and horse. Rain and sleet. Nearly froze to death. Morning dawns bright and clear. Found my horse. Traveled on westward. Repast on broiled rabbit. Found a man hanging to a tree. A Mexican woman replenishes my rations. Night attack by highwaymen. Repulsed them. Rested several days with a friend 28 Chapter IX. — Items of interest. Kmigrants preparing for the frontier. A rugged ramble and scramble over the hills and dales of the Rio-Frio river. Killed a huge bear. A lonely, dismal and frightful night. Another day scrambling over hills. Stopped over night with a regular thorough- bred Mustang frontiersman. Spent an interesting, but unpleasant night. Bought ponies from a Dutchman near San Antonio. Drove them to the Brazos. Failed in selling them 41 VI CONTENTS PACE Chapter X. — We met with a couple of [men claiming to be direct from North-western Texas, reporting the market for pony stock good. Thith- erward we went. Preparatory arrangements. Our line of march and retinue. Plain and Alpine scenery. Rip-roaring norther. Slippery, stickery mud. Suspicious characters visit our camp. Henderson's treachery. Sulphuric thunder-bolting. Stampede. Left forlorn on foot. Weary retrograde movement. Footsore, hungry and thirsty. Reached my starting point dead-broke. Sequel worthy of consideration 47 Chapter XL — Found loafing unprofitable. Profitable engagement as patent medicine agent. Its rustic and romantic nature. Anticipated censure. A visit to a pioneer Texan. Twelve months without bread. Jerked beef. General proclivities, manners, habits, etc., of old Texans. Some excep- tions. Rainfall, game. Forest and domestic items. Characteristic negrojlogy. Frolic with wolves 57 Chapter XII. — Mineral waters. The great pineries and mills. Ramble northward. Items of interest on the way 64 Chapter XIII. — Further rambles north and west. A deceitful snare skillfully laid to entrap and rob me. My purse and filchers missing. Fruitless search for them. General items of importance. Hedge and stone fencing. Scarcity of timber. Sherman and its importance. Monopoly of capital. Hints to the unwary 67 Chapter XIV. — A ramble up and down Red river. Diversity of soil and productiveness. Items of general interest to the contemplative emigrant. A tour through the Indian Territory. Items of general interest. Habits, manners and style of Indian life. A pretty, intelligent and civilly dis- posed Indian girl. Her hospitality and presents to me. Prominent traits of Indian character. General appearance of the country. Return to Texas . . 69 Chapter XV. — Met my old comrade Garrett at Fort Worth, who joined me in my westward rambles. Scarcity of water. Beautiful scenery. Items of general interest to contemplative emigrants. Interview with an old resident Baptist minister. A distant view of Kiowa peak. A lively frolic with some Indians. Casualties. A thirsty night ride. Salt fork of the Brazos. Mountain spring. California trail. Parted with Mr. Garrett, the most faithful friend I ever met 75 Chapter XVI. — I reluctantly parted with my friend Garrett. A lonely ramble. Magnificent scenery. A lonely man hanging to a tree. A hazardous plunge of my horse over a precipice in darkness. Appalling night. Daylight discloses my critical situation. Hazardous escape. Items of interest. Continued mountain and dale scenery. Beautiful and healthy region, but devoid of water. First glimpse of the Cado peaks. Big hole of water. Evidence of man and beast. Killed a cub bear. A glorious repast on cub. Indians hove in sight. Narrow escape. White men in pursuit. I was suspected of conspiracy with the Indians. My escape. Arrived at and ascended Cado peak. Beautiful Alpine scenery. Shot at and chased by robbers. My horse dies. I plod along on foot to the Brazos ; 80 CONTENTS Vll PAGE Chapter XVII. — Tired rambling. Rest awhile with jjiev. J. P. Grace. Items of interest on agriculture in Middle Texas. Devastation of drought. Another rambling tour. Meet a jayhawking thief. He follows me up for several days and robs me. Hints on jirecaution. Splendid prairies west of the Brazos. Facts and fancies worthy of consideration go Chapter XVIII. — My advance to the frontier wilds. Howling wolves at night. .Sober reflections. Chased by a band of Ijandits. A running fight. One missing. I get away. Return south. Lonely rancho on the way. Hubbub between Mexican and American. River blockaded. Hazardous escape across the river. My baggage roi)bed. Opinion of the thief. Sequel 95 Chapter XIX. — Assaulted by drunken negroes. A combat. Items of interest along the San Antonio river. Guadalupe river. The burr grass. A Mexican lying across the road ; thought he was dead. His treachery. He gets away with my horse. My woebegone feelings. A valuable lesson. Lonely tramp on foot. Lockhart and surrounding country. A belt of poor country. A school celebration. Scarcity of water. Food for re- flection in the sequel 102 Chapter XX. — A thrilling and disconsolate night among wolves, succeeded by a serene and pleasant night. A thrilling scene of Indians chasing buf- falo. Habits of the buffalo. Habits of the Indian. Pleasant meeting of civilians. Killed a singular varmint and broiled it for supper. A frightful and bloody night with wolves. A narrow escape from highway- men 106 Chapter XXI. — Concluded to return to civilization by way of the Panhandle of Texas. Appearance of the country. Met a squad of soldiers. Ramble south on the red fork of the Colorado. Chased by Indians. My escape. The appearance and my opinion of the country. Met a lone mountain trapper. His secluded retreat. His hospitality. The cause of his iso- lated life. Perfidy of woman. My opinion of commercial affairs. My opinion of the trapper, and my leave of him 115 Chapi ER XXII. — ISIy visit from the lone mountain trapper. Transit through one of the most joggy and disconsolate mountain regions that I ever traversed, succeeded by a beautiful plain. That soon defaced by a con- flagration. My hazardous and appalling condition. My escape and its distressing consequences. The meeting of old friends, and their hospitable greeting and kind attention 126 CHAPTER I. " There is a power, To make each hour As sweet as heaven designed it. We need not roam, To bring it h^me, Yet few there be who find it." Getting Under Way. HAVING, in the fall of 1868, disclosed to some special confi- dants my intention to "go west," and the programme of operation, friend-like, they remonstrated, and earnestly begged me to abandon them. They called my attention to the many treacherous characters that I would be likely to meet ; the many perils, privations and disap- pointments incident to a frontier life, but all to no avail. Having once made up my mind, I am not easily moved from my purpose. I secretly cherished the self-conceited impression, that what I did not know, King Solomon with all his wisdom could not guess at. These fancies were soon exploded. Experience, though often dearly obtained, is a treasure, and the parent of all human wisdom. Like many others, I found my surroundings very unsatisfactory. And to relieve these embarrassments, and attain that position in life that affluence alone (as I then thought) could give me, I packed up, and took steamboat passage from Montgomery, Ala., for the Lone Star State. Texas, undoubtedly, is a great State : great in terri- tory, great in native wealth, great in productiveness, great in internal improvements, great in many respects. From a point directly west of Shreveport, on the State line between Texas and Louisiana, directly west to a point on the Rio Grande, the State line between Texas and Mexico is about six hundred miles. From Brownsville on the Rio Grande, near the coast, to Red river, the State line between Texas and the Indian Terri- tory is about seven hundred miles. And the distance to the north- west corner of the State, bordering on New Mexico, is about nine hundred or more miles. I am not certain that these figures are exactly correct, but from the impression that I have of the distance, 10 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. derived from traveling over this country on horse-back, I think they will be approximately so. Texas comprises in territory 274,365 square miles. The State is said to be larger than France and Great Britain, and four times as large as Maine, Vermont, New Hamp- shire, Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island, all combined. It is a vast inclined plane, gradually descending in a southeast direc- tion from its northern boundary to the Gulf of Mexico. As will be seen from its river flow, referring to a map of the State, the coast counties are nearly level for 75 to 100 miles inland. The surface then gradually rises for nearly half the State northward, where it breaks into knolls and hills, and finally into mountains in the north- west counties. Here it reaches the altitude of 5,000 feet. On the headwaters of the Brazos and Colorado rivers, you can see some magnificent peaks, conical, or sugar-loaf shaped. I don't think I could describe them to the southeast clodhopper better than to say that at a distance they would remind him of an old Alabama or Georgia fodder stack. I visited the top of Comanche peak and some others westward. When the atmosphere is a little hazy, you cannot distinguish objects at a distance, the horizon assuming a sombre, mystical appearance, shrouding from view the most promi- nent objects. But just after a whisking norther has dissipated these mists, you can discern the most minute objects at a great distance. It is quite a solacing treat to take in view some of these more beau- tiful landscapes — scenery, picturesque as the eye of mortal ever beheld. CHAPTER II. Trip from Montgomery to Mobile, New Orleans and Galveston — Sea Sick — Revolution of head and heels. I LEFT Montgomery, Alabama, on a river steamer bound for Mobile. I noticed nothing on the way worthy of mention. At Mobile I stopped, only to take the first lake steamer to New Orleans. At this place I stopped a day for recreation and to survey the prospects generally. On my first tramp around the suburbs, my attention was attracted by a man at a door talking in tone C sharp, second octave, and speed of electricity. Of course my curiosity was excited to a palpitating amazement, and to appease my throbbing interior, I must go and learn the cause of so great a hubbub. Immediately on my arrival at the place! was told by the speaker that for twenty-five cents I could go inside and behold birds of every feather and snakes of every stripe, and a thousand and one magnificent scenes, the like of which the eye of mortal never beheld in one grand combination on the face of this terrestrial globe. In I went. A few old stuffed bird and snake skins arranged in a show-case comprised the dozy scenes that my elevated imagination was so amply prepared to behold. An idea of my abrupt descent from the sublime to the ridiculous can better be im- agined than described. In the meantime I noticed at the back end of the room a man behind a show-case, similar to those so frequently seen in fancy dry-goods stores. In front stood two men, seeming to be making purchases. Of course, having paid my entrance fee, I was entitled to inspect all that was in sight. I passed down to these par- ties and quietly took my stand at the end of the show-case. I soon learned that the parties were negotiating for some playing cards. Some half a dozen packages were selected, and the vender, clerk-like, proceeded to wrap them up; but all at once he seemed to have just then thought of a little game connected with such cards, which he good-naturedly proposed to show. The customers seemed inordi- nately anxious to see it, whereupon the vender told them that they might select three cards from either pack which they had bought, and place the three selected cards face down on top of the show-case, 12 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. and call for either one of the three cards, and that he would instantly turn that card. " How much, said the customers, will you stake on that ?" '' Five dollars," answered he. " Here's fifty," they rejoined; " now cover that !" He did so with two hundred and fifty. The cards were selected and placed face down on top of the show- case. At this epoch, I noticed, that while the vender kept his right hand on top, in seeming readiness for business, he kept his left hand under- neath. " Nine spot !" called out one of the customers; and instantly the vender turned it up, with the same stroke of the hand raking in the pile of money. They were all amazement. One of them having sufficiently com- posed himself to speak, stammered out, " You will give us a chance to win it back, won't you }" *' Of course," said he. Whereupon, the same amounts in cash, in the same manner, were placed in stake. The cards were selected and placed in the same position as before. The selected card was called for and turned up in the same agile manner. The customers left the room with less money by one hundred dollars, but with more wisdom, no doubt, by several thousand, than when they entered it. As I have already hinted, I noticed in the operation of the first game that the vender kept his left hand underneath the show- case. In the second operation I watched this point closely, and discovered that his left hand by a pull of a spring wire moved a slide from over the face of a glass that was stationed on the bottom of the show-case directly underneath the cards. His quick eye instantly catching the reflection of the spots, the lid silently and quickly slid back over the glass, leaving the bottom of the case in its usual uni- form appearance. The entire operation was performed inside of two or three seconds. I would never have been able to pick up this trick had I not suspected this point and the nature of the operation. Thus it is, that many hundreds of young men, in starting out in the world, are unwarily entrapped by old wharf-rats, who are ever lurking along your pathway to fleece you of your last nickel. Feeling satisfied that I had been amply reimbursed for my two bits, and that I was inhaling unhealthy atmosphere, I made my way direct to the street. After some further rambling around I halted at a restaurant and luxuri- ated in a magnificent oyster dinner. My point of destination being Texas, I left New Orleans that evening for Galveston, on board the Lizzie Simmons, a magificent gulf steamer — famous Morgan Line, running the Gulf coast of Mexico. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 13 My trip was not as pleasant as I had anticipated. Soon after we were well out on the Gulf, a terrific east wind, with torrents of rain, came upon us. The Gulf waters were soon rolling and tumbling, mountain- like, in waves against our craft, and occasionally splashing briny suds promiscuously over the deck, which was soon cleared of every thing in the shape of human freight. Like rats to their holes, we all absconded. I was very much perplexed, as well as disappointed, at this boisterous visit of wind and rain. I had anticipated the pleasure of some pleasing scenery along the GuJ^ coast. The darkest of dark- ness soon overshadowed and surrounded everything visible. I retired to my bunk for the night, with the hope that a fair morning would dawn upon us; but, to my great dismay and consternation, I soon found that I could neither lie, sit, stand, walk, nor crawl, and by morning my head and heels were alternately contending for the floor, my interior claiming the absolute right to no longer retain or give quarters to that magnificent oyster dinner that I had the day before indulged in. Galveston, in due time, was descried through the dis- mal horizon. We were soon landed, and by hack transported to a hotel, where I immediately consigned my shipwrecked remains to the recuperating embrace of nature's vital restorer. CHAPTER III. A walk through the island city. — A sharp trick expertly played by a peddling boy. — From Galveston to Bryan. — First sight of the prairies — Texas mud — Rustic scenes — Poisoned by a spurious policetnan. — Rescued by regular police. — Relieved by a doctor. AFTER about fourteen hours retirement, my head and heels became more reconciled to their proper spheres; my appetite considerably more courteous towards the little sea-shell in- truder, and at the ring of the gong I bolted for the dining-room. Breakfast over, I repaired to the streets, with a view of inspecting the island city of the " Lone Star." Here I met a very clever and unsuspecting Georgian, who was also on his way to the interior ot the State. Our destination and object in view being the same, and spirits congenial, we agreed to perambulate the streets together. After passing around, up and down, over and across, several blocks, we were accosted by a very fair-faced, bright-eyed, politely deported little boy, with a small wicker basket on his arm, and a '' Please, sir; buy a cigar, or box of matches " on his lips. Feeling no need of either, I declined to purchase; but my good-natured and unsuspecting companion, from motives purely sympathetic, made a purchase of a couple of cigars, at a nickel a piece, remarking that he greatly sympathized with these indigent boys, and liked to encourage them in their efforts in honest industry, at the same time handing me a cigar and match. On pulling out his purse to pay for his pur- chase, he discovered that he had no change less than ten dollars. The little vender instantly remarked, " Hold my basket, Mister, and I will run into this store and get your money changed." His deportment was so affable, his address so apparently honest, that distrust did not for a moment enter the thoughts of either of us. My companion held the basket, while the little boy flitted away with the ten dollars, to get \\. changed. There we patiently stood, discussing the future greatness of the island city. We puffed and puffed, diffusing long curling fumes skyward, but instinctively giving occasional glances in the direction our much-admired little vender had gone. Yet no small boy hove in sight. I noticed that my friend often changed the TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 15 weight of his body from one foot to the other, as though his corns were hurting him. He continued to fumigate with increasing veloc- ity, until the burnt end of his cigar was in close proximity. At this juncture he hurled away the stump, following it up with the remark that he had better look after the little scamp. On entering the store he accosted a clerk, to know if he had seen the little boy. Answered negatively, he continued his inquiries through the house. On being asked what the trouble was, this generous-hearted and charitable man recounted all the circumstances, whereupon the clerk, with a know- ing look, remarked, " Look here, my friend ; if you trust every ped- dling boy you meet you will soon have more baskets than a dray can freight." The basket and contents were valued by all present at about seventy-five cents. That boy was seen no more by either of us. As much of the ways of the world as I had seen, and wise as I had presumed myself to be, I could not avoid the conviction that there was yet much for me to learn and profit by, a fact amply veri- fied by later incidents. And no doubt many of my young readers can profit by remembering the checkered experience of Greenleaf. I saw nothing more of an exciting nature during my short stay in the island city of Texas. The weather was very unpropitious for excursions or sight-seeing. It was now December, 1868, and about the close of a long wet norther, so common to that section. After a very refreshing night's rest, I continued my journey by railroad to Houston, the bayou city of Texas, and a railroad centre. The weather continued to grow worse from day to day. The streets were in a sluice of mud and water, which precluded the pleasure of rambling around and viewing the character and import- ance of the place — a thing I so much desired. Being cooped up as I was, my spirits became restless and intractable, and I bid adieu to Houston. Taking the Central Railroad train for Bryan, then the terminus of that road, I saw nothing more attractive on the route than the pre- lude to the famous prairies of Texas. Up to this time I had never seen a bald prairie. My first impression, as they flitted by the glass window on the car, was that they were old worn-out fields, abandoned to stock. I remembered, however, that I was approaching a new country, and that old fields were not in programme. I further no- ticed that the cattle were increasing in numbers at a rapid rate. My curiosity becoming interested, I began to make inquiries about the singular appearance of things. I was told that we were passing through the prairies. As stingingly cold as the wind was blowing, I 16 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. could not refrain from getting out on the platform, to make a more close and general inspection, all of which was grand and startling in its novelty. Our train ran into Bryan about sundown, the Railroad Hotel being near the depot. Myself and baggage were soon stowed away in comfort- able quarters. The great rattling, crackling hubbub going on down on Main street created quite a lively interest in my imagination, so much so, that it was with great impatience that I waited for supper, which was quickly dispatched. Then off to Main street, through Texas mud, I made tracks; that is, I left marks on the ground in my rear resembling the bottom of a bread tray. On reaching Main street I saw that it would be rather hazardous to attempt to cross over, for the whole street, as far as I could see, was one dense throng of ox- teams, from six to twelve yoke, drawing huge prairie wagons, through black adhesive mud twelve to fifteen inches deep. Inter- mingled with this horde of ox-teams, were to be seen horsemen under full speed, splashing and spattering the black loblolly mud promiscuously over a radius of all-out-of-doors. And as they went, their vocal organs reverberated with oaths upon oaths, the most pro- fane epithets that I have ever heard. The shades of a chilly December eve were now fast closing out the scene ; but few lights were visible on the street, and the few were lanterns hung out at the different stairs and saloons, the latter indi- cated by red and blue colors. And from their frequency one would think that a lively and profitable business was going on in that exhil- arating line of trade. As I passed down to the second block, my attention was attracted by a motly throng of human beings, repre- senting in their native hues several different races, each one tip- toeing to see over the heads of a procession fronting a store door. Of course my curiosity led me to take a peep and see the sights. On my first view, I saw a man on a counter with some article of merchandise in hand rattling away with the limberest tongue I ever heard. I learned that it was an auction conducted by the famous Texas auctioneer, Mr. Applewhite. The people continued to close up the rear rank in a very boisterous, uncivil manner. All at once I felt my hat rising from my head, and, before I could raise my hand to stay it, hat and lifter were both gone through the dense surrounding throng. It would have been quite a difficult matter for the eye of man to have followed up a fleeing hat in day-time, to say nothing of the absolute impossibility in a dark, unilluminated street at night. I, however, backed out of ranks as best I could, and noticed at the next TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 17 door a gentlemanly looking countryman, to whom I at once related the circumstance of losing my hat. He at once suggested to get a police. At this point a dandy-looking townsman, who overheard these remarks, stepped up and said : " I am a policeman; what is your trouble ?" I speedily related the circumstances. " Go with me," said he. "I can find your hat and arrest the thief." As self-conceited as I had hitherto been in my wiseacre notion, I soon found that my school-days were not yet numbered. I never once thought to notice for his official ensign, or ask for his commis- sion, but went hurriedly away with him. He said it was useless for us to look around the auction-house, but we would certainly find the thief and hat down town. After passing two or three blocks, and crossing over to Railroad street, he halted me in the dark, fronting a saloon, saying "Stay here till I look inside." I did as ordered. My policeman soon returned, saying that no one was in there, but that we would soon find him down town, and down the street he con- ducted me. He soon halted and pulled out a flask from his pocket, saying : " It is cold ; I have a little good brandy ; try some ; it will help us." Unsuspectingly I took a good dram. It being very dark, I did not notice whether he took any, but he immediately placed his arm around mine, and said : "Let us hurry up." Before I made more than thirty paces, I was seized by the most excruciating pain in my stomach that I ever felt. Forty wild-cats on a general stampede could not have produced a more startling sensation than was then going on in my interior. It was but natural for me, under such terrific circumstances, to whoop and yell equal to a Comanche Indian on a Buffalo hunt. This obstreperous uproar brought instantly to my rescue two regular policemen. They found me on my knees and hands, vomiting like a sick kitten. It was very dark, and as I was not able to give an intelligible account of myself, they picked me up and took me to a doctor's office, where a dose of physic was immedi- ately administered. In a short time I was greatly relieved, and, by the assistance of the police and the doctor, I was able to go to my room. There I was put to bed, rested very well until near morning, when I began to feel in my stomach the same peculiar sensations. I got up, and drank some water, which afforded partial relief. The doctor, whose name I have forgotten, called in my room quite early in the morning and administered more physic, advising me to keep to tny room and remain quiet through the 'day. By next morning I felt all right again. 18 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. The doctor stated to me that I had been poisoned by the liquor I drank from the flask of my spurious policeman, and that the dose was so large that it caused my stomach to disgorge it. This was all that saved me. The police who rescued me from my critical predic- ament called early in the morning, to try to get some information that would lead to the detection of the sneak-thieving perpetrator of so dastardly an act. But as I met the man in the dark, and as he sagaciously kept me "in the dark," I was not able to so describe or identify him sufficiently to warrant an arrest of any one. From the best information I could give them, it was our unanimous opinion that he was an old wharf- rat; one that followed the railroad for the purpose of practicing his villainies upon every unsuspecting greenhorn, such as the writer of the present narrative. With this ends the first eventful night that I spent in the interior of Texas, and long will its frightful reflections blaze terrifically in my memory. Such tricks as this, out- side of the large cities in the old States, are seldom, if ever, heard of, or perpetrated. But, my dear young reader, if you contemplate traveling West, allow me, in all kindness and good wishes for your safety, to admon- ish you, that you can never be too vigilant. It is true you will some- times meet good men, but you will oftener take the bad for the good, than the good for the bad. The object and purposes of this fallacious villain that I met in Bryan are too obvious to need comment. A pro- fessional thief undoubtedly he was ; one to whom, while on the Western frontier, I have met many similar. The recesses of the frontier afford a harbor favorable to their purloining profession, in which they can store with comparative safety their ill-gotten gains and with impunity seclude their diabolical individuality. My extensive personal rambles in the last ten years on the frontiers of Texas, Mexico and the Indian Territory, cover a broad area in personal experience, and if I was now solicited by a friend who con- templated traveling Westward, to draw upon my experience in the way of advice, first, and above all else, would I say, " Let perpetual vigilance and diffidence towards all men stringently accompany your every footstep." As previously admitted, you will in all these mysti- cal labyrinths occasionally meet good men, but my observation and experience has taught me to know that the professional thief in his external appearance is one of the most accomplished gentlemen that roams the earth, and his blarneyism would delude the highest phre- nological attainments in discriminating between the pure and the spurious gentleman. CHAPTER IV. Continued Rustic Scenery— Superb Camp-fires— Interviewed Countrymen — Gander FulltJig. AFTER having rested a day or two from the excitement pro- duced by my first reception, and having procured a new hat, I again ventured out on Main street — well fortified with a battery of precaution and fixed in purpose to observe the divine injunction — ''watch as well as pray." It was now approximating Christmas ; the fifteenth constitutional amendments had received their wages and were all in town, from old Jeff down to little Abe, and were, with few exceptions, exhilarating the inner man with the fluid of the worm. The free indulgence of this too often, to the detri- ment of man, multiplies his ideas and magnifies his very great self- importance. Nor was that class claiming the more delicate tints in color to be seen in less numbers, or less conspicuousness, on the main thoroughfare. The suburbs of the town at night exhibited one continuous circle of sparkling camp-fires ; the grounds were literally packed with huge prairie wagons drawn by long strings of loiig-horned ox-teams, number- ing from six to twelve yokes and upwards. These wagons were freighted with country produce, diversified all the way down from cotton bales to chickens and eggs. At dawn of day (and before) the teamster's buckskin lash could be heard in one continuous rattle like a Stonewall " wake-up " on a vidette post in the army of Virginia, making the poor ox warm and squirm in a most agonizing manner. The surging and press to secure a place on Main street was an item of at least twenty-four hours' importance to each and every teamster. On account of the dense packing of wagons from one end of Main street to the other at this early hour, there was no more moving that day. A wagon once reaching Main street was soon surrounded, and it was impossible to move in any direction until night, when those outside would move out to camp and leave the way open. The same per- plexing routine was repeated from day to day, until the terminus of the railroad moved forward. Having a desire to learn as much as possible about the frontier, I 20 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. made it a point to interview as many countrymen as seemed to have the time and disposition to talk, from many of whom I learned that they brought their produce from a distance of more than a hundred miles. Notwithstanding, they expressed themselves much pleased at the progress and prospect of the road. " For," said they, " before this road started, we had to go all the way to Houston, several coun- ties below this, to market, a trip which takes several weeks." From this you may form some idea of the immense mercantile business transacted along this road, as it advanced northward ; and how so many individidual fortunes sprang up, as it were, mushroom-like; verj^ great profit, too, that this road must have realized from transportation both animate and inanimate, for at that time it was immense, to say the least of it. This was then the only line of public transpor- tation penetrating these extensive and fertile regions. I was told by old residents, that two years before my first visit to Bryan, the locality was a vacant prairie, containing a string of plank box houses along the railroad for several hundred yards, three or four hotels, and several heavy wholesale houses, with a multifarious supply of shops in general. At the date of this writing, 1880, Bryan, with many other railroad towns, had a city aspect. Substantial brick and stone buildings have been placed in the stead of the primitive board shanties. In the early afternoon of this day, my attention was attracted by a multitude of people collecting around a central point in the suburbs of the town. Having a disposition to let nothing of importance pass without investigation, I made my way thitherward. On arrival I saw two posts set firmly in the ground, some fifteen feet apart, and about ten or tAvelve feet high, with a cross-bar on top reaching from one post to the other. Underneath the centre of this cross-bar was suspended, by means of straps around the body, an old long-neck gander, the object of Avhich was a game peculiar to Texas fancy, called a gander-pulling. I would not attempt to occupy your time and attention on this link in the chain of my West- ern observations, but I know that a great many like myself never before as much as heard of a gander-pulling, much less witnessed the brutal scene. Furthermore, it will have a tendency to manifest more clearly to the reader the different tastes, manners and habits of people in different sections of the country. The poor doomed bird had his long neck denuded of every feather, and smeared over with the sleekest of soap-grease. He was now ready for business. So far as I could learn, the rules and regulations of the game were about as follows : A committee of arrangements, numbering more TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 21 or less, was appointed, whose duty it was to see the game fairly and equitably conducted. An empty cigar-box was procured, lid fast- ened, and a drop hole made in the top of the lid, through which the entrance-fee of fifty cents must be deposited by each one that par- ticipates in the game, and this entrance-fee must be repeated at each successive entrance. Two of said committee stand some thirty feet from the rack, one on either side, with long, keen lash-whips in hand, whose duty it is, when the rider passes through, to give his horse a " git-up." Another committee-man stands near the victim, mop in hand, ready to keep the neck slippery. The procession on horse forms in single file somfe eighty or a hundred yards distant. They pass through one at a time. The winning card of the game is to grab the head of the gander and pull it off while passing through. As a general thing they all make a clear miss in their grab for sev- eral rounds. The old gander, notwithstanding his bound-up, greasy- eyed, and seemingly awkward condition, uses his long wiry neck on the dodge with a great deal of dexterity, and it is not until his vis- ionary and physical abilities become somewhat exhausted that the most expert grabber can seize his head ; and then it is so far sleek that it slips through the grasp as quick as made. In this way the game is continued until some one with a strong nerve succeeds in Avresting the head from the body. Then the box of money is all his. A great many pay their entrance fee of four bits for several rounds, just for the sport of the thing, while others have an eye to business. As to the funny part of the thing, I failed to see where or when that part in the drama came in, unless it was when a fellow happened to get a good grip on the head, his horse slipping out from under, and the gander-head from above, sprawling him lengthwise in about ten inches of black loblolly mud. This occurrence was not infrequent. As to the business point, there was some inducement. I learned that in this instance, when the head was pulled off, the box contained over one hundred dollars. With this ended another very interesting day to me, and I meditatively repaired to my room, in accordance with the programme I resolved on in the morning. CHAPTER V. Great self-itnportance. — A tour around town in search of eniploymefit. — Rebuff upon rebuff.- — My business ideas modified. — Disco7isolate retreat. — A restless night. — Renewed applications for business em- ployment. — Cold rebuffs. — A friendly but disconsolate intervieiv with a Virginian. AFTER a night of undisturbed and refreshing repose, I awoke to see the sun glowing bright and cheerful over all creation; and as I had been on the loiter, sight-seeing, for several days, I concluded that it was time to commence a tour with a view to business. From the very lively appearance displayed in the mer- cantile line, I very naturally concluded that my services were in great demand, and all I had to do was to offer them and they would be readily accepted, at a high salary. Breakfast over, I (in my own imagination) primped up to quite a business-like appearance, orna- mented my phiz with a roll of ignited " Havana," and forthwith went puffing down Main street, with the dignity and bearing of a million- aire. Being a little conceited in my personal importance, and the easy acquisition of a choice situation in business, I concluded to ramble down one side of Main street and up the other, and inspect the business houses with a view of selecting a house compatible with my views of business, and with inmates socially congenial. Having completed my round, making two or three selections by noon, I re- tired for refreshments, preparatory to entering into a profitable and permanent contract in business. Dinner over, with personal busi- ness appearance properly adjusted, I entered the house of my first choice, accosting the first clerk I met with an inquiry for the propri- etor of the house. The clerk at once informed me that I would find him in the counting-room, to which office I at once repaired, with no other expectation than a very polite reception and undivided atten- tion from the proprietor for any length of time I should choose to remain. On entering the office, I saw at a desk quite a business looking man, intently engaged, pencil in hand, making figures on a blank scrap of paper. I halted for a moment for him to turn and receive me, but he kept figuring away. I hailed him to know if the TEN YEARS IN TEXAS, 23 proprietor was in, to which he replied, without turning his head, " I am the man, sir. Have a seat." He kept figuring away. My ex- pectations were not as fully realized as I had anticipated; but I took the proffered seat, consoling my disappointment with the soothing thought that he was very busy on some important calculation, and would soon be through, to- give me that attention and information that I so much expected and desired; but he kept figuring away. And there I sat for one solid hour, squirming and nursing one of the most petulant cases of impatience that I ever met with. Finally, he perched his pencil above his right ear, and turned upon me with a look that would have chilled the intrepidity of a royal Bengal tiger, accompanied by the remark, "Well, sir; what can I do for you?" By this time my head of steam had so evaporated or frozen up that my loquacity had dwarfed into a dumpish predicament. With much effort, however, I mustered up courage enough to stammer out the main object in view, to which, with one eye turned up like a duck in in a hail-storm, he replied, "Well, sir; I have declined at least twenty applications for clerkships within the last week. I have, sir, about as many applications from men to sell goods as I have from customers to buy them." With these remarks, he hurriedly picked up frOm his desk a bundle of papers and left the room; but before I could rise and follow in the wake he wheeled about and brushed by me, and examined if his safe was securely locked. With this load of disappointment, I slowly and pensively retreated to the street, with my business views somewhat modified. The chilling winds of Christmas eve were now whiffing around the street-corners, tumbling hats through the streets, boys in pursuit, exhibiting as much romantic agility as a kitten playfully grabbing after the end of its tail. As " old Sol" was now about making his exit below the western horizon, I concluded to retire from the field, and, reorganizing my demoralized forces, establish a new line of policy. After having spent a very restless night, rolling from pillow to post, and at intervals pacing my room, pondering over the very un- expected and unsatisfactory results of. the preceding day, I arose and dressed, by early dawn, preparatory to making a general assault upon the whole business fraternity. I had hitherto been in the habit, through respect for age, of giving " old Sol " the preference of rising first ; but on this occasion I reluctantly deviated a little on account of the very perplexing diminution in the weight of my purse. The inexorable necessity of an early engagement in business, at a salary ■24 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. at least sufificient to prevent a separation of soul and body, was now reaching a crisis of vital importance. Breakfast over, it was with much timidity I resumed my efforts in the acquisition of a business engagement. On passing down one •side of Main street and up the other, I left no business house unap- plied to. I remember having called at one or two houses to find myself there and then preceded by young men exhibiting their commercial diplomas and letters of business recommendation as guarantees of their qualifications. Of course I retreated without disclosing the object of my call. I found it quite a difficult matter in several instances to get the attention of merchants long enough to make the most concise statement of my wants. I remember one very irritable old case, and about the last one that I applied to, whom I found standing at his back-door reading something like a business communication. I said to him, " If you are not too busy, sir, I would like to speak to you a minute." Without taking his eye from his paper, he replied, " If it's a clerk- ship you want, sir, I have no vacancy — if you want goods, my clerks in front will wait upon you," and with knitted brow kept on reading his paper. Of course I retreated like a jilted boy in a courtship — brimful with both humiliation and indignation. On the next corner I was hailed by a very polite Virginian, to whom I had previously applied for business. He inquired about my success, and seemed at leisure and disposed to impart any information in his possession, which opportunity I hastened to embrace. In the interview granted me, he very kindly and candidly informed me that it was absolutely useless for me to make any further effort to obtain employment in the commercial line. " For, said he, not only this town, but the whole line of this railroad, and as far into the interior as I have been able to learn, is an overflow of young men from the old States in search of employment. No doubt many of them are worthy and well qualified, but the supply is far in excess of the demand." "And, continued he, there are hundreds of young men relinquishing comfortable homes and kind friends in the old States, to come West with barely money enough to get them here, under the delusive impression that their services are in great demand, and that the great thoroughfares leading to affluence and fame are open to all; but on testing the realities, they at once discover to their great regret and sad disappoint- ment their great mistake." CHAPTER VII. Glowing accounts of Cotton Planting on the great Brazos — Adopted a new line of policy and business — Enthusiastic hopes and efforts — Riding on an Ox-wagon — Mud, black mud, black adhesive mud — My first night in Camp — Hideous, appalling, incompre- hensible — Beautiful cotton-farms — Sandy prairies — Knoll in the heart of the bottotn — Traits of the Freedman character. IT was long after " old Sol " had made his debut this morning that I awoke to find that breakfast was over, and a cold lunch my reward. Having my programme som.ewhat matured for this day^ I repaired to Main street with the intention of interviewing the cot- ton planters as they came in town, with the view of embarking in agriculture. I was not long in finding several men engaged in this line of business ; all of them seemed inordinately anxious to make contracts with laborers. I was told that the great Brazos bottom, located but a few miles westward, would, with ordinary cultivation, produce annually from one to two bales per acre, or seventy-five to one hundred bushels of corn per acre, and that one hand could, without a strain, cultivate twenty acres in cotton and five in corn. The prices of cotton at that time was twenty cents and upwards, and corn one dollar per bushel — remunerating the laborer with the handsome sum of twenty-five hundred dollars. With these very flattering prospects, so favorably contrasting with my late disconso- late experience, I, without further consideration or calculation, mount- ed aboard an ox-wagon, and rolled out for the great Brazos bottom. It was now January, 1869, and the incessant rains of late, together with the great number of ox-teams, freighting cotton from the many large plantations on the Brazos, had so cut and worked up the slip- pery Texas mud, that our progress was rather tardy and unpleasant. I had never before seen anything that would admit of a comparison. The wheels of the huge wagons were, in appearance, spokeless. The spaces between were compactly filled with the black adhesive mud. On arrival at Little Brazos, a diminutive stream running parallel with the Big Brazos for some distance before emptying the stream, we found daylight fast d sappearing and giving space to the shades of 26 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. night. The many large trees, Elm, Hackberry, Cotton Wood and Pecan, with which the banks of this stream were fringed, interwoven with native mustang grape-vines, intercepted the feeble light of the stars ; add to this an almost fathomless sheet of mud with sharp north- west winds, and you may form some faint idea of my dismal sur- roundings. My companions having a cold lunch, I participated lightly with them — more for the sake of courtesy than from hunger, and, as soon as practicable, I doubled up my shivering limbs within the folds of a blanket and perched my inconsiderate self on top of some salt sacks and goods boxes. Notwithstanding my very awkward and un- comfortable position, I slumbered quietly through the night. But I attribute this much-appreciated favor to my exceedingly wearied con- dition, brought on by unusual exercise on the preceding day. At dawn of day the teamsters were out, splashing and dragging their mud-laden boots around, camp-thwacking and gauging the poor ox with the but ends of their huge whips in a most unrelenting man- ner and linking them into line preparatory to moving. From the foretaste I had the previous night, and the foreboding prospects presented that morning, my enthusiasm was not elevated to such a giddy height as it was the previous morning. But I remembered that leaves had their time to fall, and flowers to wither and bud and bloom again. With these soothing reflections I nerved my resolutions to unfaltering stability. Breakfast over, we moved on slowly and tediously. The entire retinue seemed to be all right and in a cheer- ful mood. I could account for this great discrepancy apparent in our feelings in no other way, than that they were amid their accus- tomed and usual surroundings, while I, as it were, had been abruptly precipitated into a new world of dismal despondency. Immediately after emerging out of the low grounds adjacent to the river, we entered long plantation lanes — right where the attractive part to the eye of the cotton-planter begins. We continued in our snail pace through unabating mud and pro longed lanes, intersected at about every league by cross lanes, until about noon, when we reached Mumpford's prairie, a noted place of much resort for the bottom clodhoppers. This prairie takes its name from a Mr. Mumpford, the first settler there in the memorable days of Hon. Sam Houston, a pioneer soldier and statesman of the Lone Star State. This prairie is the terminus of the slightly elevated ridge of land that divides the Big and Little Brazos rivers for a considerable dis- tance. It is of oblong shape, numbering, I guess, less than one hun- TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 2*7 dred acres. It is an absolute bed of sand, seeming to have been drifted up by a simultaneous overflow of both rivers. Its surface is interspersed by beautiful groves of live oak. Its isolated peculiari- ties, contrasting so greatly with the surrounding black mud, renders it a little remarkable. Its freedom from the obnoxious mud and its pleasant scenery and the easy acquisition here of the ever-glorious glass of grog, makes it a great point of attraction to the countless number of freed- men inhabiting the surrounding bottom. All of these, irrespective of age, size, or condition in life, could be seen with a navy six- shooter and an Arkansaw " tooth pick " suspended to a raw-hide belt buckled around their waists. Supplement the above equipment with a sore back Mustang pony, an old army saddle tree and rope bridle, and you have the exact picture and entire possession of the fifteenth constitutional amendment. It has been an established and ever-prevailing custom, from the incipiency of their freedom, for them to abandon business and repair to these prairie grogshops early Saturday morning, to remain until Monday morning, drinking, gambling, horse-racing, quarreling, and sometimes fighting. But generally they are not brave nor much disposed to fight. When they do engage, however, in a combat, it is with a death-grapple, using with all their might, pistols, knives, club, axe, or any other club or implement upon which they can seize. From the general observations that I have made of their exploits, I would fear one less on account of his pistol than his empty hand, for they invariably shoot at random ; but with a club, they strike with great force and precision. These boisterous exploits are seldom indulged in, except when prompted by intoxication or some freak of superstition, which in- cites them to the defence of some imaginary point of honor. My first day or two loitering around these headquarters, making general observations, passed off not very pleasantly, but somewhat interestingly, as I gathered up much available information. CHAPTER VIII. Lonely rainhle through the frontier — Narrow escape from Indians — / traveled all flight — Abrupt approach on a Mexican ranch — Pur- sued by them — A running fight — A dubious herd of Ponies — Ra- tions out — A dismal evening followed by a stortny tiight — Lost tny hat and horse — Rain and sleet — Nearly froze to death — Morning dawns bright and clear — Found my horse — Traveled on Westward — Repast on broiled rabbit — Found a man hanging to a tree — A Mexican woman replenishes my rations — Night attack by highway- men — Repulsed them — Rested several days with a friend. AS I traveled on vvestAvard, the general routine of incidents con- tinued in uniform monotony from day to day. I camped alone on the prairie at night. After passing Fort McKavet, I entered the wild frontier, where the Indians, Mexicans, and all other purloining bandits prowled around at will. I was fortunate in not coming in direct contact with Indians in this country, though a hair's-breadth escape is all that I can claim. A herd of them passed near by me in single file, going south. It was one evening, while I was resting in a clump of scrubby brush- wood, on the edge of a narrow valley. In the afternoon of this day, ,1 concluded to stop, rest, and graze my horse until night, and then travel on. The weather being mild and the moon near full, I thought that I c^ould travel with more safety at night than in the day, and by moonlight I could easily keep my right course. I selected, as I thought, a secluded spot next to the hillside of a narrow valley. The low, thorny brush was quite thick for some dis- tance up and down this side of the valley. Having made my selec- tion, I dismounted and staked my horse, wrapped my blanket around me, and was soon in the rosy arms of oblivion. My nap was long and sweet. Some four hours passed ere I returned to conscious- ness. The sun had passed beyond the summit of the western hills, while his departing rays were faintly glimmering on the eastern knolls behind him. Being wearied from incessant fatigue in travel, and a little stupid from my late snooze, I was somewhat tardy in resuming my travel. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 29 My horse had grazed to his satisfaction, and was lying down, rest- ing. These circumstances were a fortunate occurrence to me, for with- in a few minutes, while twilight was yet spread abroad, I discovered on the opposite side of the narrow valley, about one hundred and fifty yards from me, a herd of red-faced feather-caped Indians, strung out in single file. As well as I could count, there were about sixty in number. They passed on down the valley in a slow pace, evidently on a prowling ramble for stock. Considering their vigilant nature and close proximity, it has ever since been a perpetual wonder how I was ever passed by them unnoticed. But such was my happy lot. I immediately prepared for active movements, and followed them at a respectful distance in the rear. I did this for the purpose of ascertaining what course they would take, for my laid-out route was in the same direction that they were going. But to my great grati- fication, at a distance of about two miles down the valley, they turned left oblique and went over the hills eastward. At this lucky turn in the state of affairs, I felt greatly relieved, and once more indulged in a long, unbroken respiration. I turned my horse oblique and kept him in a lively pace till daylight, when I repaired to the first clump of brushwood that I saw. I knew that the habits of the Indian, in making his aggressive movements, was to travel down the valley for protection from sight. I also knew that, on their retreat with their booty, except when closely pursued, they took the open prairie with all the velocity that they could ac- quire. In either event my safest retreat would be in a clump of brushy timber on the high prairie. In this isolated cluster of scrub oak and mesquite brush I remained nodding until three o'clock p.m., when I remounted and set my compass for camp Hudson. Nothing larger or more interesting was noticed during the evening than an occasional " bounce-up " of a Jack Rabbit. Some time after night- fall, I suddenly rode upon a small shanty on the edge of a valley. Three or four wide-mouthed dogs came barking and bawling at me in a most abrupt and boisterous manner. I turned my horse ob- liquely to pass, if possible.' The dog halted at what seemed to be their yard limits, but through policy, as well as curiosity, I kept a vigilant eye to the rear. There was no light in the shanty as I approached it, but I soon noticed a glimmering light through a crack; then it disappeared. To my very unpleasant feeling, I saw two men mount horses and pursue me in a brisk trot. I had no time for thinking, planning, or anything else, but to get further, which I did 30 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. with good speed. My pursuers followed close in the wake, but evi- dently not gaining ground, which satisfied me that their stock were common ponies, while my horse, though jaded, was of good size and speed. We made not more than a quarter of a mile, when they commenced firing at me from long range. I knew from their reports that they were using pistols. I was well armed with a double barreled breach loading shot gun, charged with cartridges containing three buck shot and a good sized ball ; besides, I had small arms. It was not my policy, however, to give them battle if I could avoid such a catastrophe. I thought that it was sometimes expedient for a man to be a philosopher as well as a soldier. With this considerations I prepared for a running fight, and held up my horse until I thought them in good range for my shot gun ; then, with the best aim that I could take by moonlight, I gave them a broadside with both barrels in quick succession, wheeling my horse into my line of retreat with both spurs riveted into his flanks. From the flash and smoke of my gun, I was not able to see what execution was done, nor did I deem it prudent to wait and make a close inspection. But to my great delight, I soon found that I was not pursued, and I countermanded the flank movement of my Mexi- can persuaders and held up my horse to save his wind and vim for future emergencies. Within the distance of a mile I emerged from the valley to the plains. I was soon on a high ridge, and by moonlight I could see to a great distance. It was a most beautiful moonlight night, but I regretted that it was not dayhght, that I might feast my eyes upon the picturesque landscapes that seemed to surround me. I met with nothing more of a startling nature until late in the night, when I rode into a herd of ponies. Their gentleness aroused in me a little uneasiness, as I knew that the wild ponies on the plains were skittish, and would not allow you to approach near them. My impression was that they were a herd which had been driven out from the settlements by Indians, and had stopped to rest and graze,. or that they were driven around and herded there by Mexicans. Hence their gentleness. In either case, I thought the surroundings a little critical. If Mexicans, they would naturally regard me as a prowling thief, and go for me ; if Indians, their great glory and honor is the acquisition of a pale-face scalp. You may be assured that I neither winked nor blinked, but kept a vigilant eye in every direction. Be the circumstances of the herd what they may^ I saw nothing in human shape, and rolled on my way rejoicing. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 31 The morning dawned clear and bright, to find me still increasing the distance from civilization. Notwithstanding the inordinate fatigue that myself and horse had gone through, neither of us were relax in our vim and energy. As to my own wakefulness, I attributed it to the exciting incidents and circumstances around me. Hence we traveled on until mid-day, when, through compassion for my horse, on whose ability to go my safety depended, I obliqued to a little brushy valley to my left, where was found a narrow ravine, extending back some distance. Up this I went, until it narrowed down to about ten paces broad, with some fifteen feet embankment, naturally environed by shrubbery. The grazing in the bed of this ravine being very good, I dismounted, staked my horse and vora- ciously devoured the last morsel of my rations. Where or when I could replenish the lamentable void, was a reflection of much gravity to me. But to the refreshing embrace of snoozedom I unhesitatingly committed my exhausted remains. The day was far spent when I awoke, to find all around me as quiet and undis- turbed as I had left it. My horse had laid down, and was resting, his'chin on the ground, evidently asleep, for when I made a noise he jumped up as though frightened. I remounted and continued my travel southwest; but the evening was very gloomy, prognosti- cating an ugly and dismal night. But no second alternative was left me. Onward I must go. Daylight was fast giving space to the shades of night. Hastened on was the darkness by overshadowing clouds. These hideous surroundings were augmented by greasy- looking streaks of forked lightning. Then there was an occasional low, rumbling noise, in the similitude of old whisky barrels tumbling over a craggy precipice. All combined brought home, sweet home, vividly to memory. But grim fate's unrelenting shackles were sealed and extrication impossible. This disconsolate state of affairs continued to increase with the speed of electricity, until the first pioneer whiff of an icy norther gave me an abrupt gauge. In sub- stance, it as much as said, " Clear the track, for old General Harry Cane is on a stampede." In compliance with this timely injunction, I hastened to adjust my fixtures. It was now so dark that I could not see whether or not any refuge in timber or breaks on the "prairie were in reach. But faithful hope, man's most lasting friend, though often erroneous, whispered, "yes," and onward I pressed through tumultuous surges of wind and rain ; but I soon found that its unbridled vehemence was steadily pressing my horse obliquely at a rapid rate. I felt that I must dismount, or myself and horse would 32 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. be uplifted and sent kiting, belter skelter, over the prairie. In my effort to dismount, my head reached the ground in advance of my feet, and my horse and hat went pell-mell with the wind. My saddlebags and gun were buckled to my saddle. My blanket and navy six being buckled to myself, they remained with me. By the frequent bright flashes of lightning I could see that the prairie descended with the wind, and I resolved to go in that direction, with the hope of finding some friendly refuge. In addition to the steady stream of wind that was blowing, there were at short inter- vals cyclopic squalls that somersaulted everything not anchored to the earth. Between these squalls I would make a kind of turkey trot, down grade, until tumbled. I finally ran into a gully, and there squatted until the massive flood of water from up the plains attained such bulk and force that I had to skedaddle or be floated away. Whereupon I toddled off down grade, until, by a bright flash of lightning, I saw an upright break on the ground. I halted for the next flash of lightning, which disclosed the break only ten or twelve feet off to a valley. I at once slid off down into a huge bunch of grass. This embankment and grass made a complete for- tification against the howling onslaughts of the wind ; but the wind had free access to my denuded head, and already saturated body. Feeling grateful for small favors, I appropriated my acquisition into a bunk for the night. By this time my sensitiveness to cold had become so deadened that I suffered but little, I can distinctly remember that I never slept a moment through the night ; but what I thought about I never could remember. I do not think my mind acted upon any subject whatever. The first impulse of consciousness that I remember was light. In lifting my blanket from my face, I saw that daylight was abroad upon the land, and that old Sol's red eyebrows were peeping over the eastern hills. The majestic winds from Alaska's icy climes had drifted the last speck of clouds across the Gulf of Mexico, via Cuba, and thence further on. Their tracks were left in glittering icy tags on every blade of grass, but the genial smiles of old Sol soon blotted them out. In my efforts to rise and look around at the dilapidated state of affairs, I found my limbs almost completely paralyzed. It was with considerable effort that I straightened up. I managed to scramble up to the most elevated point nearby, and get my spy-glass and take a view of the surrounding objects, to see if my horse was among them. At about a mile distant I saw a horse, but on account of the bright, dazzling reflection of the morning sunlight on the glit- TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 33 tering ice, I was not able to determine definitely whether it was my horse or not. I determined to go and see. On arrival at the spot, to my very great delight and incomprehensible relief, I found my horse with lasso entangled in a mesquite bush, saddle-bags and gun all safe as when we parted, except the glittering decoration that the fandango had overlaid them with. My poor dumpish looking horse was all humped up with glittering tags of ice, disseminated from the tip of his ears to the tip of his tail. In a very clumsy manner, as you may imagine (for my fingers were all thumbs), I extricated the lasso, but the poor brute looked so shivery and rickety, that I was afraid to mount him ; I led him off. He was not long in showing his agility by prancing around me. This warranted me in mount- ing, after which he was not long in suppleing up and getting into good speed. The ice melted away, and all seemed right except the handker-, chief that had taken the place of my hat. It, however, felt very well, but I did not think that it looked well ; but as there was no one to look, I let the thought pass. By the middle of the .evening my appetite was getting a little ravenous, and this, without a morsel wherewith to appease the rattling down that I had received the pre- vious night, together with present prospects, were fast bringing the young man's temerity to compromising terms. I was exceedingly fatigued, both mentally and physically, and I resolved on looking out, before dark, a secluded spot in which to bivouac for the night. In this I was quite successful. I saw to my left, on an elevated point, a knob mantled with shrubbery, and thenceward I repaired. The knob being too steep to ride up, I dismounted, and led my horse in a zig-zag way until I reached the top. Here I found a flat place cov- ering half an acre or more. The grazing was short but sufficient for one horse, and I gave him the full forty feet of my lasso. With saddle blanket for mat, and traveling blanket for covering, saddle bags for pillow, I retired for the night, relinquishing to oblivion the last thought of everything earthly, and not a ripple crowded my wearied brain until morning, when I awoke to see the sun clear above the eastern horizon. On looking around, I saw my horse and all else as I had left it. I don't remember of ever feeling better in my life. It was true, my diameter had diminished and my belt buckle wanted a hole or two shorter ; but I felt well and cheerful ; such feeling as the bracing atmosphere of the mountains only can produce. As my commissary department was bankrupt, no time was consumed in breakfast, and I was soon down on the plains wending my lonely way 34 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. westward. During the day I came to a road that seemed to be hoof worn by animal travel. I was somewhat at a loss to determine which way to go, as the prairie was open all around. I was not lo'ng in concluding that it would not be hazardous to dismount and w^it for some one to pass, from whom I might get some information about the surroundings in general. I was not long in suspense, when two Mexicans and a white man rode up. I learned from the white man that I was on the old Col. Johnston trail leading from Fort Clark to Fort Terrell ; and that I was near the head waters of the Neuces river, and some distance south of Camp Hudson. Bad weather and other coincidents had led me farther south than my laid out route. In my great solicitude about other matters, I never once thought to ask the man for eatables, and as they seemed in a hurry and not very communicative, I let them pass northward and I went south. I was not long in reaching the west fork of the Neuces river. Being now nearly two days without food, I concluded that eat I must, and that soon, or my physical abilities would lan- guish, and enfeeble me for travel or self defense. I examined my haversack and found salt and black pepper, and the first Jack Rab- bit I saw I bled him with a bullet, and picked him up and obliqued some half mile to timber, where I broiled him on a tiny fire with salt and pepper lavishly sprinkled on, and to say that I there and then devoured his entire net-carcass with a ravenous relish, would but feebly express it. Some of my fastidious readers, who have been lolled in the lap of luxury from the cradle up, may say that they could not relish such a dish, but to these J have only to say that they have never been hungry. After this most refreshing repast, which supplied a yawning void in my interior, I remounted and took the south end of the old Johnston trail, and by moonlight traveled until late in the night, when I came to another trail leading eastward by south. I thought that this trail was more likely to lead me out of the wilderness, of which I was getting most heartily tired. I futhermore had noticed all the evening, and then dimly saw by moonlight, that the country wetsward, in the direction of Rio Grande, looked rather mountainous and rugged. This fact satisfied me that it was not far to San Pedro or Devil's river, noted at that time for the haunts of diabolical desperadoes. With this view of the surroundings, I took the trail leading eastward. I soon found that this trail led down the Neuces river. I was much fatigued and so was my horse, but it occurred to me that it would be TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 36 hazardous to camp near this stream ; for such places were the fre- quent resorts of Indians, and white and Mexican thieves and high- waymen. In view of this I pressed forward through the night. Daylight found me still in proximity to the strips of timber adjacent to the Neuces river. I began to think seriously about halting and taking a little recrea- tion. I saw to my right a heavy cluster of timber, and I concluded to repair thither and select a secluded spot in which to rest and re- cuperate the lassitude of myself and horse. But before reaching the timber I descried an object that looked like a man up in a tree. Of course, I was perplexed a little, and my first impulse was to re- treat. But a second thought suggested that I had better go and see him. Perhaps he could tell me something to my advantage ; and thitherward I went. On approaching near, I saw that the man was hanging by a rope around his neck to a tree, about eight feet from the ground. I cast glances in rapid succession in every direction, but could see no one. It was about ten o'clock, A. M. Notwithstanding my hitherto abhorrence to the superstitious doc- trine of ghosts, I must confess that on this occasion I felt a little skittish. His long hair was dishevelled over his face as if in sym- pathy it was mantling his sinful brow from the face of nature. His hat was lying directly underneath him as though ostensibly draped with reverence to the God he then was meeting. And notwithstand- ing that I was hatless, I could not muster up audacity enough to appropriate his. His dress, though soiled, was of fine texture. On riding around to his rear, I saw a paper pinned to the skirt of his coat, and some writing on it. I resolved to see what this epitaph was, but my horse refused to go near enough for me to read it, and it was too high for me to read it from the ground. I dismounted and tried to lead my horse up to the place, and then mount him. But with eyes glared with frightful expressions, he would do nothing but pull back and paw the ground. I tied my handkerchief over his eyes, still he would not lead forward, but pull backward. As retrogression seemed to be his favorite tactics, I seized him by the bit of the bridle and mane top and backed him by the rear to the spot. While he was yet hood-winked, I mounted him and read the inscription, which was verbatim as follows : ''''Hung for horse-stealing. He said his natne was William Mc Bride, but he was a liar as well as a thief." It was written with a pencil in a coarse, rough hand, but very 36 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. legible. The weather was cool and the body showed no signs of decay. The execution evidently had not been done more than two days, for about that time a sweeping norther had passed over that section, and the general appearance of the body, together with the paper pinned to his coat, evidenced no sign of having been in rain. I personally witnessed, during the war between the States, some shocking scenes in mangled human bodies, but this lonely man, sus- pended between heaven and earth as I viewed him, produced a more depressing feeling upon me than I ever before experienced. As my horse would not move while hood-winked, I had to dismount and unveil his face ; and it was fortunate for me that I did dismount, for, as soon as the handkerchief left his eyes, he sprang forward with all his might, and it was all that I could do to prevent him from get- ting away. Brute as he was, he seemed to know that unlawful work had been perpetrated among men. I mounted and rode away, firmly fixed in purpose to get out of so unhealthy a clime as quick as possi- ble. I soon left the valley and merged to higher ground, when I came to the first house that I had seen in a long ride. It was a diminutive shanty in Mexican style. In front of it stood an old Mexican woman and two children. I inquired if I could get some- thing to eat. The old woman seemed not to understand me, and motioned with her hand for me to leave. By this time a young Mexican woman came out of the house with a loaf of bread and a string of jerked beef, and placing it on a stump in the yard, motioned me to take it, which I did. She then motioned me with her hand to leave, supplemented with a chattering rigmarole of Spanish, from which I could derive about as much intelligence as from the cackling of an old hen. She evidently could not speak English, but seemed to understand what I wanted. As I did not start off quickly enough to suit her wishes, she com- menced to point one hand to the trail and the other to the valley below, accompanying her gesture with another roll of Spanish about as intelligible as the first. But I inferred from her action that it might be hazardous for me to remain, as her men folks were down in the valley and might come upon me and handle me roughly from finding me at their premises in their absence. With this, to me, intimated precaution, I left. I clear forgot to offer her pay for her very much appreciated hos- pitality. I looked back and saw that they were gazing after me. I turned my horse about and held up a silver half-dollar. The young TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 37 woman came running to me, and received it with a broad grin and several mustang scrapes and bows, and again motioned me to go for- ward. It occurred to me that all this might be ominous of more than mere Spanish twaddle, and I decided to ride off from the suburbs as quickly as possible. I was not long in coming to another tributary of the Neuces river, where I stopped and broiled my jerked beef, staked my horse, and voluptuously reveled in another frontier repast. It was not my intention to make a long stop at this place; but as my horse seemed anxious to graze, I concluded to grant him the favor for an hour or two, and spread my blanket and lay down to rest. The next thing I knew, it was near sundown. I had dropped off to sleep, and had remained unconscious till six or eight hours had passed. I not only felt greatly refreshed, but felt very thankful that I had not been molested during my repose. The moon was on the wane, and would not rise until late in the night; but the weather was clear, and the prairies dry, and I rolled out for a night's journey. After crossing another small stream, and ascending the prairie be- yond, the moon made its debut on the eastern horizon. This was a much appreciated boon in my benighted condition. It was not long before my horse, by throwing up his head, and looking intently for- ward, notified me that he descried some object in front. As I was traveling down grade, the moon and skylight aftbrded me no assist- ance in perceiving the object. I approached within one hundred yards of two men, standing their horses in the road, before I was able to discern the object that had so intenttly attracted the attention of my horse. They turned right angle from the trail, and rode off at a brisk pace. I was not pleased at this movement, and felt a little unsafe; consequently I kept a vigilant eye upon them. After having passed them, I had the down grade upon them, which gave me the advantage of moon and skylight, and I could plainly see them at a considerable distance. They had stopped at about a hundred paces from the trail, and there remained until I had passed nearly out of sight. It was evident to me that they were bad meh, intent on some diabolical purpose; otherwise they would have met and passed me openly and boldly on the trail. I deemed it advisable to con- tinue my vigilance upon them. The prairie continued down-grade for several miles. After riding some distance, as I had expected, I saw two men approaching in my rear, some two hundred yards dis- tant. They could be seen at a greater distance, as the moon was well up, and they on the up-grade. My first impulse was to spur up 38 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. my horse, and ride away from them. I rode off at a brisk gallop, but I instantly perceived that they simultaneously increased their rate of speed. I decided to increase my velocity, and take advan- tage of the first timber that I would come to. My horse, though jaded, was young, and of good size and speed, and I went off from them at a rapid rate. I was satisfied that they would con^nue to follow me up, and, sooner or later, I would be compelled to repulse them or submit to the dastardly outrages that they evidently had in view. In the course of a mile I came to a clump of mesquite bushes, immediately on the right of the trail. I wheeled my horse into them, and prepared my double-barreled shot-gun for active business. My horse was gentle, having been trained to hunting and shooting before I bought him. These qualities, together with his good form and speed, are what brought him into my possession. As my pur- suers were a little tardy in coming up, I was about to conclude that they had abandoned further pursuit. While I was on the make-up of this decision, my horse threw up his head, and pointed his ears to the rear. I knew that this indicated the proximity of active busi- ness. My position was about thirty paces from the trail, environed by mesquite shrubbery. Here they come in a brisk trot. My gun was leveled before they got opposite me, and as they came in range I untriggered the right barrel and down went the first horse, and off jumped his rider. Simultaneously jumped off, several paces, the second horse and rider. The dismounted man discharged his gun in the direction of my seclusion, but his missiles went far from their intended mark. He was shielded a little by the dense shrub- bery, but I untriggered my second barrel in his direction. By the time the smoke drifted away from my view, I discovered the dis- mounted man mounted up behind his companion, both making off across the prairie at a brisk pace. All this transpired in much less tima than it has taken me to write it. I recharged my gun and rode out to inspect the casualities, finding the horse wounded in the shoulder, and not able to rise to his feet. A few feet away lay his rider's hat. Having lost mine a few nights before, I thought this quite a valuable acquisition, and assigned it to the conspicuous position that of late my handkerchief had so prominently filled. The saddle was also better than my own, but I declined to take ad- vantage of an even swap in his absence. Time I deemed of more importance than saddle, as I thought they might return with re-en- forcements. This reflection, no doubt, had something to do in shaping my course of honesty in the saddle swap. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 39 I rode away from the place across the plain eastward with as much git-up as I thought my horse would bear. After crossing another small stream the prairie spread out expansively eastward. I concluded that a little philosophy was now in requisition, and that I h^ better quit the trail and take the prairie, lest I might be followed up by my antagonist, or meet with similar parties. I met no more trouble during the night, except occasionally having to dismount and lead my horse across abrupt breaks and ravines. The morning dawned bright and clear and "old Sol's " red eyebrows again came blazing up from the eastern horizon in a most cheerful manner. About ten o'clock I noticed a diminutive shanty to my right, but, as I thought it might be a Mexican ranche, perhaps the identical home, or the home of friends to the party whose hat was sheltering my phiz, and I might be rec- ognized and the means of entrapping me into further difficulties, I gave it the go-by. About noon I began to see houses and farms at intervals both right and left, which evidenced my near approach to civilization. About three o'clock I rode on to a trail that showed the wear of wheeled vehicles. The sight of this inspired me with brighter hopes and more cheerful feelings. It was not long before I rode up to a house, respectable-looking for the frontier. I saw a clever-looking white man about the lot, and, approaching, addressed him with all the courtesy that my frontier trip had left me. He seemed a little tardy and loth to converse, and eyed me very closely, but on his inquiry from whence I originally came, he asked me if I knew certain men in Alabama and other places, to all of which I affirmatively gave satisfactory answers to him. He then told me that his name was Cargle, and that he was from Alabama, and very kindly invited me to dismount and rest up with him. This generos- ity I very readily and gratefully accepted — even more appreciatively than I can find adequate words to express. I remained several days with him. On delineating to him the route that I had come, he said that I had come through one of the most dastardly sneak-thieving dens extant, and that it was the greatest wonder to him that I ever got through alive. No tongue can tell, nor pen depict, the appalling horrors and thrilling commotions that vibrate through the mind of man while wandering through the labyrinth of such lonely and haz- ardous recesses as we have just gone through with, to say nothing of the extremely exhausting fatigue that unremittingly bears down upon him. It is very common, almost universally so, for young men on enter- ing the verge of business life to unrestrainingly indulge the ideal 40 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. reverie, that fame, comfort, and affluence are only to be acquired by adventurous enterprise. Although I claim no heriditary relationship with Solomon, yet from my variegated experience I would unpresum- ingly suggest that nothing more detrimental in its final results could be entertained by you. In these ideal indulgences one compliance instigates and demands the acquiescence of an actor, until ere long you find yourself enveloped in a world of ideal bliss, the hopeful fruition of which coerces you to relinquish the home of your youth with all its bowery surroundings, the soothing smiles of the tender- est hearts on earth, and ere long precipitates you into those inflexible facts that will sportively detonate your fallacious fancies in a dis- gustful nothingness. CHAPTER IX. lieius of interest — Emigrants preparing for the frontier — A rugged ramble and scratnble over the hills and dales of the Rio-Frio river — Killed a huge Bear — A lonely, distnal and frightful night — Another day scrambling over hills — Stopped over night with a regular thorough-bred Mustang Fro7itiersman — Spent an inter- esting but unpleasant night — Bought Ponies from a Dutchtnan near San Antonio — Drove them to. the Brazos — Failed in selling them. AFTER resting several days with Mr. Cargle, I traveled east- ward. If I remember correctly, he said that he lived in Uvalde County, and that it was a waste of time and labor to try to make a living in that section by farming. The land is replete with vegetable food, but in summer, as a general thing, is destitute of rain, without which vegetation can never thrive. Except in extreme drouths, that section is well adapted to stock-raising. The native nutritious mesquite grass grows and thrives, overlaying the surface in dense profusion. I bid my benefactor, Mr. Cargle, adieu, and proceeded eastward. My first day's journey was over a tolerably smooth prairie ; I passed but one house during the day. Just before nightfall I began plainly to see the outlines of the rugged hills and mountain-breaks along the head-waters of the Rio-Frio river. I was told before starting on this trip that I would find a direct line across these hills tedious, toilsome, and in places impracticable, if not impossible. But old Hardy-hood's shallow-brain temerity thought he knew it all, and straightforward I went or rather intended going. About sun-down, the smooth plain over which I had traveled through the day broke off into an abrupt descent to the first tributary of the Rio-Frio river. Its dismal prog- nostics were not in the least inviting to a night's repose, but as myself and horse needed water I proceeded down the slope and found excel- lent water in the valley ; but the hideous surroundings were a little too diffident in their general aspect to warrant a safe lodging for the night. After watering my horse and filling my canteen, I returned to the 42 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. plains in the rear, and there bivouacked for the night. My commis- sary department was well supplied by the generous hands of my late benefactor, Mr. Cargle. The night air was mild and balmy, entwin- ing its dewy robes around my wearied brow, with that solace that can only be enjoyed upon the plains. And myself and horse did rest and feast sumptuously. The morning dawned serene, and I was soon merging into the rugged and craggy hills and dales spread out before me. In order that the reader may better understand the state of affairs into which I was then about to enter, I will here inform him, that for lack of direct roads on the frontier, and the easy transit across the bald prairie, by the aid of a compass most travelers go direct to the point of destination. The head-waters of the Rio-Frio embraces a multitude of diminutive streams, sprangling out through a cluster of hills and valleys. In places are almost perpendicular precipices. It was not long before I had to dismount and lead my horse up-hill, and let out my lasso and drive down-hill. The greater portion of the way I had to precede my horse or succeed him. Walking, or rather scrambling, was the order of the route, and riding the exception. Late in the afternoon, as I was scrambling down an abrupt hillside through scrubby mountain-shrubbery, my horse suddenly plunged off down the hill, jerking the lasso from my hands in such an abrupt manner that I was at a loss to determine whether he slipped up and tumbled overboard, or was frightened at something. But he kept going, pell-mell, over rock and brush, until the lasso caught in a scrub-bush and stopped his precarious career. I at once started in pursuit ; but before I passed the spot from which he made his first plunge I discovered to my left, about ten paces away, a huge black bear, standing up on his hind feet, his forearms doubled up, woman- like when she is about to slap a naughty boy ; his mouth gaped wide open ; his scarlet tongue, jaws and snowy white teeth beauti- fully contrasting with his sooty black face. With more dispatch than a streak of greasy lightning I leveled the bead of old Hannah with my right eye upon that red spot so prominently set in midnight darkness, and instantly untriggered. Without unbeading, I set my finger on the next trigger ; but I saw it was needless to pull down, or he was sinking to the grojnd, bting at close range, the whole load entering his mouth and face. I went up to his prostrate body and examined his prominence. He seemed to me, as he lay at full length on the ground, to be very large and fat. I thought of the TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 43 luscious bear-Steaks I had hitherto luxuriated on, and was tempted to get a bit for my supper. The hide I also coveted, but it was near night, and my horse was not yet safe in my hands. I also thought it quite likely that his mate, and perhaps other carnivorous blood and- thunder beasts, might be in the vicinity, and the odoriferous scent emitted from a broiled bear-steak might invite them to call around and participate with me, or, perhaps, for variety sake, upon me. With these hideous reflections, I concluded to go. I found my horse with lasso entangled in a bush. Darkness was now upon me, and dark indeed it was, I could not stay on that steep hillside, nor did I like to stay in the immediate vicinity of the dead bear. Not that I felt any apprehensions of his lifeless carcass, but felt a little dubious about the obstreperous cer- emony his comrades might demonstrate over his defunct remains. With these timid reflections, I scrambled down to the valley below, where I found water and a nice place to camp ; that is, it would have been very nice had it been any where else than in that dismal valley. I saw that grim fate was sealed, and that its iron-hearted destiny I must endure. I staked my horse, and gathered up some old dead brush-wood to make a light for the ostensible effect of keeping the carnivorous bloodsuckers at bay ; but, before I struck my match, I thought about the diabolical Indians and mountain bandits, whom, from late experience, I dreaded more than the wild beasts. For ought that I knew, my light might be seen many miles down the valley, and lead a more omnivorous enemy upon me. With these embarrassing forebodings hankering around me, I put my match away, got out my haversack and knawed awhile on smoked beef tongue and cold biscuit. After readjusting things, preparatory for active movements in case of an emergency, I buttoned up my overcoat, wrapped my blanket around me and hunched up beside the root of a tree, with my gun across my lap. I endeavored to employ all the soothing reflections that I could induce to while away the lonely monotony. As to sleep, whether I would or would not, cir- cumstances strenuously forbade. My first round of thoughts was on the many precarious ups and downs I had clodhopped over during the war between the States. I remembered with vivid emo- tion how often, while on Greenbriar and Cheat rivers in the Alle- ghany mountains, on dark and rainy nights, I filled my present attitude on a vidette post, vigilantly watching for the enemy. Occasionally my thoughts would rebound to " home, sweet home," with its bowery surroundings and pleasant associations. I had 44 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. voluntarily relinquished these to gratify my capricious cravings for greatness achieved by adventure. And here I was now, liable at any moment to be torn asunder by wild, carnivorous, bloodthirsty beasts of the forest, or the more profligate brute claiming the respectability of man. After several hours pondering over subjects of this nature, I suppose about mid- night, or later, my horse suddenly bounded off with a snort equal to the whistle of a locomotive, and was only stopped at the ter- minus of a forty-feet hair lasso. It was so dark I could not see anything, nor could I hear anything. I had to pat and fondle my horse gently on the face and neck for some time before I could ap- pease his restive and intractable excitement. He finally quieted down, and as he seemed to notice nothing more through the night, I thought perhaps he heard a noise or growl upon the hill where the dead bear was, and having not fully recovered from the fright that he received in the evening, he scared up again. With this conclusion I repaired to my sentry post, and assumed the routine of my ram- bling thoughts. Daylight, after so long a lime, came tardily poking up the valley, though seeming more dilatory than usual. Its relief and cheerful- ness, under the embarrassing circumstances, rendered its return more than acceptable. My first concern was to look around the spot from where my horse scared up during the night, and, to my rather unex- pected discovery, I saw the footprint of a huge bear. Thought I, " Leaves have their appointed time to fall, and flowers to wither, but man is liable to fall at all times." I was early in my saddle and on my way eastward. This day was also spent in a rough, tumbling manner. I saw nothing during the day of more exciting interest than an ugly varmint about the size of a dog, called a catamount. He was perched upon the limb of a tree about thirty feet from the ground. His big savage-looking head exhibited anything but a pleasant aspect. I concluded to empty one barrel of my gun in his direction. My horse usually manifested no uneasiness at the dis- charge of fire-arms, but on this occasion behaved himself in a very restive manner. I could not account for this in any other way than that he had inhaled the obnoxious scent of the animal. I resorted to my Navy Six and deliberately sent a ball whistling up that way. This raised his bristles only. His head was a splendid target, but my horse was so restless and wigglesome that I could not hold steadily upon it. I discharged the second cartridge. This raised the cat's fiery indignation and bristles to the altitude of in- TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 45 tolerable endurance. Porcupining every hair on his body, rising to his feet, hunching up his back, elevating his nubbin tail, with abroad grin he exhibited the most hideous set of teeth that I ever beheld. The idea occurred to me that the diabolical villain might leap off from that limb to my head, and I rod^ away. The evening of this day found me east of all the Rio-Frio tribu- taries, and in the vicinity of Castroville, in Ulenard County, where I put up for the night with a clever man, in his way. But the most of Eastern travelers would not admire his ways. On my arrival he scrutinized me up and down and all around with as much specific curiosity as an isolated American negro would have inspected a Bengal tiger. From the bustle and clamor a.bout the place, his family seemed to be prolific as well as interesting. Finally, supper was announced, when the whole retinue simultaneously bolted for the kitchen in a double-quick step, and I had the inadvertently accorded honor of bringing up the rear. The old gentleman, how- ever, had civility enough to reserve me a seat at his immediate right. But before I could take my allotted position, all hands, the old gen- tleman included, were promiscuously grabbing at the huge boiled beef bones with the voraciousness of young ducks gobbling up bran dough. However, the boil and the table were commensurate with his prolific and apparently famished retinue. After I was seated, I waited, as you Eastern folks understand, for manners. While I was waiting, the old gent obliqued his right eye upon me without unclinching his tooth grip on the gristle, with : " Are you sick ? " "No, sir." " Well, why don't you eat ? " With this appetizer, I seized a mutilated shank, and fell to gnaw- ing with as much vim and vivacity as the prevailing custom de- manded. After the table was pretty well denuded of its preponderant in- cumbrance, we were again seated in front, when the old gent pro- pounded two solid interrogatories, viz. : " Where'r you from ? Where'r you going ? " to which I responded commensurably. At this, he tapped the ashes out of his old clay pipe, and pointed to a room, and said : " You'll find a bed in thar," and he exodusted. The name of this gentleman I never learned. I saw no point at which I could venture an interrogatory. Next morning, after some well-matured preliminaries on my part, I succeeded in eliciting the information that over on Leon Creek, 46 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. near San Antonio, I would find plenty of ponies. Feeling no further interest in the place or its inhabitants, I called for my bill, to which the old gent responded : " VVe'all, you may pay that to the old umman." To find her headquarters, a little strategy had to be employed. After some timid reconnoitering, I finally run up with her at the cow-pen. On making known the object of my invasion, she said : " What you bin paying tother folks es you come along?" As I had no desire to limit or restrict her price, I m^de an evasive answer, whereupon she said : " We'all, ez I hez the rumatiz, an' needs a little bitters, an' tha axes a dollar an' a half fur whiskey, you may give me that." I shelled out three eagle half dollars and exodusted with a dust This day brought me to Leon Creek, where I found a Dutchman desirous of selling ponies at very reasonable prices. I remained with him two days and made a purchase of twenty-three ponies, and employed a Mexican, by name Yeanchio, to follow in the rear and drive them up. I remember the sound of this Dutchman's name, but I never ventured the ri-k of a jaw dislocation in trying to pronounce it, and I will not here attempt to butcher up the English alphabet in an effort to spell it. On the third day I started out in the lead — ponies in the wake, and Yeanchio in the rear. I traveled by way of New Braunfels, San Marcos and Austin to a point on the Brazos river near port Sullivan. It was now spring-time, and the negroes were all out of money, and as they were about the only parties that ever bought ponies — the whites preferring good mules for farm-work, my pony speculations were badly nonplussed. I was at a great loss to determine what to do — if I sell to the negroes on credit, I may never see pony, pay, nor nigger again ; if I turn my ponies out upon the range to graze until fall, when the negroes by cotton- picking will be able to buy and pay for them, my ])nnies will scatter off and I will never find half of them again. While ruminating over this perplexing question, I met with Mr. A. M. Garrett, who was in about the same dilemma. He had about thirty ponies. Had I exercised a thimbleful of common sense, I could have easily seen in the ouiset that I could not place ponies on the market before spring, and then the negroes, who are about the only parties that ever buy such stock, would be out of money, rendering my enterprise an inevitable failure. But temerity, the most detrimental aitribute of the human heart, ever prevails with man, until experience, the parent of all human wisdom, bumps into him the real difference existing between facts and fancies. CHAPTER X. We met tvith a couple of men claiming to be direct from North-western Texas, reporti7ig the market for pony stock good — Thitherward we wetit — Preparatory arra?igements — Oiir line of march and retinue — Plain and Alpine scenery — Rip-roaring norther — Slippery, stickery mud — Suspicious characters visit our camp — Henderson's treachery — Sulphuric thunderbolting — Stampede — Left forlorn on foot — Weary retrogade movement — Footsore, hungry and thirsty — Reached my starting point dead-broke — Sequel worthy of consideration. AFTER floating around on the drifts of suspense for several days, Mr. Garrett and myself met up with two men claiming to be direct from North-west Texas, and calling their names Simpson and Henderson. They reported to us that we could readily dispose of our stock upon the frontier. "For," said they, "the Indians and horse thieves have denuded that section of ponies, but on account of the slow git-up of cattle they have taken but few of them away." They said we could get three or four good beef-steers for a good pony. According to this statement, which at the first glance seemed to be a plausible one, we concluded to drive our stock up there and barter our ponies for beef-steers, and drive the steers back to the Central railroad, which was then in process of construc- tion. There beef for hands was in great demand, realizing a net profit of three or four hundred per cent. The spring was now open, and the grass growing vigorously— our ponies would mend up on the way to the front, and our beeves fatten on the return trip. Of course, any one situated as we were, would. bite at such a bait. We concluded to drive off at once. My Mexican Yeanchio agreed to make the trip. Mr. Garrett had one hand, an old faithful negro, named Jeff, who was a good trusty cook. Upon further deliberation, we concluded to give Jeff the separate charge of the pack mules and commissary department, and employ another hand to fill his place as driver of stock. Mr. Garrett remembered while in conversation with Simpson and Henderson, that Henderson was going back to the front, was well acquainted there, and would assist us as guide and driver of 48 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. Stock, if *we wished him to do so. The idea of employing him as guide and assistant driver of stock filled the vacancy in our retinue exactly. Mr. Garrett went forthwith and employed him. We were now in readiness for our tramp to the frontier. Mr. Garrett and myself rode in front, Henderson and Yeanchio in pursuit of ponies, and old Jeff with the pack mules in the rear — such constituted the march of our retinue. We had a very pleasant time in going up ; the weather, spring-like, was mild and balmy ; the grass was in waving green, and country sufficiently civilized to not give us any trouble. We went by way of Comanche, making Shackleford our first point of destination. Old Jeff was a remarkably clever old negro, and a good cook, unswervingly inclined the way the twig was bent. He was all care and watchfulness over his charge, in which he seemed to feel a great pride ; was always on hand at the right time, with a good broil and strong coffee, and many were the Jack Rabbits and prairie-chickens he broiled up in barbecued style on a wire rack which he carried along for the purpose. The order of our tramp was after the ponies grazed a while in the morning, to move forward steadily through the day until the middle of the afternoon, when we would halt at the first suitable place and let the ponies graze until morning. We agreed to take the post of sentiy through the night in routine, exempting old Jeff, on account of his separate and onerous duties. We generally had a prairie all the way, which was beautiful and pleasant. Especially did the scenery magnify in picturesque beauty and exquisite loveliness after passing Comanche. It is true that we would at intervals be plunged into labyrinths of scrubby mantled valleys, but this served the valuable purpose of breaking the monotony and preparing the eye to behold afresh the enrapturing landscape scenery that awaited it on the next plain. To ride at leisure over the unbroken green-sward on an extended elevated plain, fanned by the gentle zephyrs of balmy spring, and behold, in one circuitous chain stretched on the distant horizon, terrace after terrace of Alpine robes in living green, rising higher and higher in rolls and ridges, glimmering on aerial heights, beggars description at the point of my pen. Northwest Texas displays more attractive and beatific scenery for the rambling eye of man to gloat upon than can be found in one group eastward to the Atlantic. To truly realize its magnificent beauty, you most go there and behold it for yourself. Up to this time we had as mild and beautiful spring weather as heart could TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 49 desire; but, from the appearance of the upper elements and the movements of the wind, we thought that they indicated a norther, and we turned into a valley that was sheltered on the north and west by a spur of the mountain, and there bivouacked for the night; and, as we expected, about midnight here the norther came, snort- ing and puffing in wild commotion from over the Rocky Mountains, but its fury and length of duration was not so great ar, its forebodings indicated ; yet a late emigrant from the East would have thought that a second deluge was upon the earth, executing its vengeance with the vehemence that desolated the vale of Sodom. By twelve o'clock next day the wind shifted to the east, breaking up and ele- vating the clouds to the upper current, which soon drifted them away. We resumed our tramp. The sun shone bright, and the elements were clear. Our journey for the next twenty-four hours was far from a pleasant one, for the surface of the plain was in a waxy wheat-dough state, the tramp of our ponies intermingling the the long grass-blades with the adhesive mud, forming long strings of tenacious dough, that clung to their feet, rendering their footsteps clumsy, clodhopping and wearisome. But the high south winds by the next day dried up the surface, and pleasantness again returned, refreshed by the shower. We soon passed the headwaters of Leon river, and run into the tributaries of the Clear Fork of the Brazos river. We here thought it advisable to go into camp, and look around and gather up all the information we could get from the few isolated inhabitants interspered through the country relative to bartering our stock. We now called upon our man Henderson for information about the surrounding country and people, as he had told us that he was acquainted in this section ; but he denied having any definite knowledge of the country or people, saying, in defence of his first report, that he had only passed through the country at some point, he did not know exactly where. This unexpected equivocation of his rather nonplussed our calculations, and while all hands were lolling around camp, two men rode up, claiming to be emigrants from Tennessee looking at the country. I noticed that they inspected our stock and personal equipments rather closely, but as they asked so many simple questions, indicating ignorance of the frontier, I attributed their inquisiiiveness to curiosity. After supper my Mexican Yeanchio privately intimated to me some doubt of the honest intentions of our late visitors. He said he noticed them passing some knowing glances at each other as they were 50 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. looking around at our outfit, and he went on to intimate undue intimacy on the part of our man Henderson. I cautioned him to hold such suspicions to himself, for, if Henderson were to hear him making such remarks, he would be likely to account for it at the muzzle of a navy six-shooter. Yeanchio said no more, and I thought no more than that it was a Mexican freak of his, concocted to ingra- tiate himself into my favor; but Yeanchio, being raised on the frontier, between Texas and Mexico, was well prepared to judge of the inside character of such men, which was fully verified by later incidents. We all sat up late, discussing the state of affairs, and premed- itating our business programme. It was finally proposed to retire, Henderson at once proposing to take the sentry post, to which we readily assented, and all hands were soon in the land of oblivion. The next thing I knew I was abruptly jerked to my feet at the hands of Garrett,, with the wild exclamation, '' Mount your horse ; the Indians are upon us ! " By the time I could gauge my stupid eye- lids open, every pony and everybody was going and gone, harem- scarem, pell-mell, in every direction ; pistols and guns firing simul- taneously with whoops and yells ; lights and torches flashing and waving, emitting sulphuric odors sufficient to justify the impression that all the demons in Sulphurdom were turned out of their Satanic realms. My saddle-horse, with all the balance, was gone. I had presence of mind enough to pick up my blanket and gun and scamper off to a gully, and there squat for safety, and there I remained and nursed a chilly and nervous case of intolerable sus- pense until morning. At daylight I went back to camp, to survey the casualties and see what was left ; but the only trophies that were to be seen was old Jeff's hat and blanket. It was our custom on the frontier, before retiring, to saddle up our horses and pack-mules, preparatory for any emergency ; hence, went away everything with the stampeded stock. I sauntered around the field to see if I could discover any further evidence or effects of the stampede, since such, evidently, it was. I found nothing but one of the sulphur torches that had been used and dropped by the stampeders. I had often heard of the modus operandi and intention of a stampede, and I decided that my friends would not be likely to return ; and as the stampeders would be cer- tain to do so I had best get out of the suburbs as soon as possible. I did so by returning the route we came. I was on foot and without rations, but I was alive, and you know small favors should be thank- fully received. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 51 As an itemized account of the mode and intentions of these din- bolical sta,mpeders, and by whom perpetrated, may be of interest to the reader, I will here give it. These raids are perpetrated by jay-hawking frontier bandits, who live in the mountains, by their purloining exploits in plundering every civilian that comes in their way beyond the pale of civiliza- tion. They will ride up with you on the road or visit your camp in a very unpretentious and innocent manner, purporting themselves to be emigrants looking at the country. The most of these men have been well raised in the old States and know full well how to deport themselves as gentlemen, and can assume this treacherous garb in a most becoming and unsuspecting manner. When they have learned all that they wish to know about your possessions and protection, they, in a very pleasant manner, will open the way for their depart- ure, leaving you, if not well versed in frontier tactics, under the im- pression that they desired. And sooner or later, at whatever time and place to them may seem most propitious for the easy accomplishment of their rapacious designs, they will return under cover of the shades of night and a masked face, equipped, besides the usual implements of warfare, with a bundle of rags thoroughly saturated with kerosene oil and pulverized sulphur, wrapped with wire and suspended to a pole ; each man is thus equipped. These thieves are linked in chain- gangs, and, oftentimes, the number assaulting you is more than com- mensurate with your number for defense. The hour of their attack is invariably at the dead hour of night, when you are asleep, and your herd quietly resting. They approach stealthily to your herd, and quickly ignite their sulphuric bundles, and go pell-mell, at full speed, on their horses, through your herd, waving their torches, yell- ing and whooping in the similitude of wild Indians on a buffalo chase. This abrupt and frightful scene, terrific noise and sulphurous odor, disseminated promiscuously in every direction, with the wildest commotion, would have an irrepressible tendency to startle and stampede the demons in the realms of sulphurdom, much less a puny bunch of mustang ponies and torpid liver speculators. As soon as the stampede is completed, they whip out their torch- lights on the damp grass, or abandon them, and scamper off to their seclusions, and there remain until you have left the- suburbs, when they go round and gather your stock and appropriate them to their own use and benefit. The morning dawns to disclose to you the appalling fact that your ponies are scattered for miles in every direc- tion, placing them and you in a circumstance impracticable, if not 52 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. impossible, to ever collect them together again; and in the event that you should attempt to remain in that section and gather them up, these very men who stampede your stock for the identical purpose of gathering them up and appropriating them to their own benefit, seeing that your intrepidity was competing for the same object, and, unsuppressed, would terminate in their defeat, would not hesitate to waylay you, or assault you, under mask, and, with powder and lead, leave your lifeless body on the plains. Such is the character and habits of the rapacious bandits who reside beyond the pale of civilization, among whom it is extremely hazardous to go, unless you are, by disguise or force, able to repel their dastardly tricks. But as civilization advances, law and order drives them forward. We will now return to my lonely and disconsolate retreat home- ward. I had my blanket and fire-arms, but not one morsel of any- thing eatable, and a long, lonely tramp before me. I knew that on reaching Comanche county I would occasionally find houses along the road. But there was a long, wearisome tramp to be made before reacliing the first house. I remembered noticing houses at long in- tervals as I came up, but I also remembered that these frontier people had been so shamefully abused and deceived by hypocritical slinks in disguise, that however plausible my story might be, and however much disposed they might be towards sympathy and charity, I was not likely to meet with much clemency. I knew that I would not see any houses the first day, for we had not passed an}' for several miles as we came up. Late in the evening of the first day I became exceedingly hungry and fatigued, and crossed no water during the day. I remembered where we crossed the last tributary of the Leon river, but how far ahead it was I could form no definite idea. Besides being thirsty^ hungry, sleepy and fatigued, my spirits were sorely depressed at my incomprehensible disappointments. The weight of anxiety under which I was then struggling, seemed intolerable, and I fell down upon the green-sward. While prostrated, ruminating over my forlorn condition, struggling between soothing hope and agonizing despair, timidity and courage, Demosthenes came to my relief and confidingly whispered that the greatest glory of man was not in. never falling, but rising every time he falls, thereby exhibiting true courage and intrinsic merit equal to the emergency. I was further- more fully impressed than eternal perseverance was the price of ulti- mate success. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 53 These stimulating reflections reanimated my desponding spirits to renewed and more vigorous effort in the extrication of my incon- siderate self from the dumpish and perilous predicament into which I had inadvertently precipitated. I was on my feet and moving forward ere I was aware of the prevailing influences that over- shadowed me. Thirst was my greatest torture. My throat was dry- ing up. I painfully felt that I must soon be relieved, or suffocate. All these things combined had a great tendency to enliven my foot- step and lighten my burden. I soon began to see stock along the prairie. I knew that this indicated the proximity of water and I pressed forward with greater vim. Finally I saw a dark profile on the horizon in front. I was solaced with the cheering hope that it certainly was the timber along the stream much desired. The shades of evening ere long threw their dismal mantle around me. The misty haze, spreading through the upper elements, be- nighted my surroundings with the intensity of the sooty side of midnight. There was no moon above the horizon, and the few stars that were, by their magnitude, able to penetrate the hazy robes that shrouded the elements, appeared like dingy specks retreating from the surface of a tawny autumn leaf. All this had but the invigorating effect of lengthening my strides with more animated velocity. I finally ap- proached quite near before my glorious deliverance was realized ; and I was soon by the brook imbibing and bathing in that solacing beatitude that opposite extremes only can afford. And here, amid dismal solitudes, I once more laid me down to sleep, wrapped in midnight darkness, oblivion, and a woolen blanket. And calm and sweet was that sleep. Not a ripple crossed my unconscious repose. Daylight was abroad upon the surrounding realms before I awoke. But as I arose, I felt greatly refreshed and more hopeful of my re- demption. As I had nothing to eat, I lost no time in eating it, but was soon on the high prairies shortening the distance by thirty-six inches at a pace between my yawning stomach and rations. About the time old King Sol's red eyebrows began to peep over the eastern hills, I descried a man on a mule about half a mile to my left. I hastened out my spy- glass, and to my incomprehensible delight and unutterable joy, I recognized old Jeff on one of our pack-mules making directly towards me in a gallop. It was but a few moments when he was beside me. Notwithstanding I had great cause to rejoice at meeting with him, 54 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. he seemed overjoyed and the happiest negro I ever saw. His story- was, that he was asleep when the stampede broke loose, and the first thing that awoke him was Mr. Garrett dragging him by the heels across the camp hallooing : " De injuns is 'pon us ! " Bless your soul, boss, I couldn't see nuffin ner do nuffin. I didn't know which wer best, ter brake an' run, or drop on my knees an' pray de good Lord to sabe us from 'struction ; for clar ter you, boss, 'fo' de Lord, I tho't de debel wus turn loose an' bustin' up de whole cr'ation ; furde ponies were guine in ebery way, an' ter save my karkis from 'struc- tion, dis nigger got away too. Upon further inquiry, I learned that Jeff ran off a mile or two and halted until morning, when he descried one of the pack-mules graz- ing on the prairie. He caught it, mounted, and rode off direct west- ward. He soon discovered that the mountains were looming up in front, and it was only then that he noticed that he was going west instead of east, which caused him to about face and retract east- ward, otherwise he would have, ere long, run into either the Apache or Lapon tribes of Lidians. This confusion on his part was a fortunate circumstance, otherwise he would have been so far ahead that I never could have overtaken him. The mule had in his pack saddle two canvas hams and a bushel or more of crackers, from which I replenished that irritating void that was giving me so much distress. After enjoying a hearty repast, I proposed to old Jeff to go back and look after our friends, but Jeff vehemently protested, saying, " No, nebber, boss, in dis world is dis nigger guine back dat way no mo. Ise quine home, I is." As I was not very anxious to return to the calamitous scene, we rolled out eastward, riding the pack mule by turns, and as Jeff was now hatless, as I once had been, I knew how t > sympathize with him and gave him my handkerchief to cover his frosty wool. All things considered, we fared sumptuously until we got down into Comanche county, when one day it came Jeff's turn to ride, and as he was get- ting ready to mount, the mule stepped on his toe. Jeff gave him an abrupt gauge in the flank and away went the mule flitting across the prairie with all our rations and my blanket and gun, and never did we see or hear from that mule again. We continued our lonely tramp until late next evening, when Jeff" opened out with : " Boss, whats we guine ter do ? Nuffin ter eat, an' no folks 'long dis road." TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 55 I cheered up the old fellow as well as I could, and by night we reached a spring branch, where we found three men camped for the night, claiming to belong to Armstrong's ranch, returning thither with some strayed off stock. They had rations and whiskey, which they very generously divided between us. I saw that the whiskey had a winning effect on Jeff. Furthermore, they had extra horses that they were leading along back to their ranche. Jeff made con- siderable inquiries about their ranche and the chances for a cook's situation, all of which he was encouraged in by the ranchemen. I saw that I was going to lose Jeff, and as he had hitherto been faithful, I recommended him as a good cook and an honest gentle- man, which secured for him a horse to ride and the promise of a good situation at their ranche. And the party, including Jeff, left me, and T was again all alone on the lonely prairie. I continued to plod along for several days, and as I knew the people were a little timid about taking a man to lodge for the night, espe- cially a man on foot as I then was, lest he and their best horse might be missing in the morning, I made it a point to trouble them only for rations, which, to their credit I can say, they were not slow in supplying me. I suffered for water more than anything else. The weather was warm, the creeks dried up, and in places it was quite a long stretch between houses. I finally reached the suburbs of the Brazos, near my starting point, sore footed and sore all over, and as badly bunged up in feelings and appearances as an old towel that a yard calf had been chewing all night. The history of this e.xpedition would be incomplete without an account of its other members. This information I did not receive until two or three years afterwards, when I met Mr. Garrett at Fort Worth. He said that Yeanchio was the first to discover the raiders, and woke him up. Their first impulse was to secure their horses, and before he could arouse me from slumber, the raiders were going pell- mell with their sulphuric torches through the herd, and dashed through our camp, causing the saddle horses and pack-mules to de- camp. He said as they passed near our camp, Yeanchio opened fire upon them with his six-shooter. He and Yeanchio followed this up until the raiders turned upon them in full force, and chased them for two or three miles in a running fight. He said, our man Henderson was not seen during the stampede by him nor Yeanchio, nor since that time ; and that he felt more than satisfied that Henderson slipped out of camp after we retired, and, Judas like, had given us 56 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. away ; and that he also felt assured that Henderson and Simpson, the man that was with Henderson the day that he employed him to go with us, were both members of the stampeding party, having gone down into civilization to spy out subjects for their diabolical rapacity to prey upon. That the plot was by these two men prematured, and the tempting bait systematically set before us to decoy us off and rob us of our stock. And that Simpson preceded us to his com- rades, and that the parties who visited our camp the evening of the stampede were sent in to our camp by Simpson to spy out the state of affairs and prepare Henderson for their work. And that Yean- chio was not deceived in his suspicions of Henderson and these men. Mr. Garrett said that after the raiders ceased to chase him and Yeanchio, they thought it advisable to get away as quick as possible, for if Henderson was leading the raiders, that he would not hesitate to sacrifice the lives of us all, in order to effectually shield his own treacherous guilt. Mr. Garrett said that he found Yeanchio faithful, truthful, and honest, which is a remarkable trait for that class of people, and that he went with him to Mexico and kept him in his services for more than a year. I would here call the attention of my young readers to the very important and inflexible facts demonstrated on the ruins of falla- cious ideal fancies, and would kindly suggest that we never be too considerate in our reflections on all subjects that have a tendency to effect or involve our personal responsibilities. Had I exercised a thimbleful of common sense, I would not have relied so implicitly on the precarious reports of an absolute stranger. Hence, I would have been spared this intolerable intricacy and have avoided this catastrophe in bankruptcy. But Experience hath a wondrous treasure ; Its fathoms we can never measure. I was now financially dead- broke, too dead to resuscitate, and as there seemed to be but a nickel's difference between the laboring man and the loafer, and that the loafer generally had the nickel, 1 concluded to try my hand at loafing, at least until something better turned up. CHAPTER XI. Found loafing unprofitable — Profitable engagement as patent medicine agent — Its rustic and romantic nature — Anticipated censure — A visit to a pioneer Texan — Twelve months without bread — Jerked beef — General proclivities^ manners^ habits^ etc., of old Texans — Sotne exceptions — Rainfall, game — Forest and domestic items — Characteristic negr oology — Frolic with wolves. IT is now spring of 187 1, and in compliance with my adopted policy in the close of the last chapter, I have been professionally engaged for several months. But I find that the nickels are not so plentiful as I first anticipated, nor do I find the vocation as con- ducive to health as I could desire, inasmuch as it has a great ten- dency to diminish one's defense against pneumonia and like diseases. But, by the way, I have met up with and entered into a business con- tract with a Mr. Jemison, claiming headquarters at New Orleans. His business was the compounding and selling patent medicines, the right for which he claimed to have bought from a Dr. Somebody, a Frenchman, in New Orleans, La. The definite points in these representations it was not my business nor inclination to investigate, the clean, clear cash that I could extract from it was the only heal- ing influence it had with me. His proposition to me was that he would put his skill and capital against my skill and labor as selling agent, and that we would divide the proceeds from my sales equally between us, I to furnish my own transportation and expenses. This so-called medicine was in liquid form and put up in two-ounce vials, with a blandishing label all over and around them, elucidating in glowing bombast its all-healing and soothing effects on every pain, ache and gripe incident to the human family, from a thorn under your nail to the most frantic case of bilious cramp colic. It had the color of red cinnamon drops, scent of sassafras, taste of pepper- mint, and, I guess, virtue of common pepper sauce. The labelled price was one dollar per ounce, at which I generally sold it. Some- times in settling a night's lodging, or a fellow's pile was a little be- low the standard price, I would deviate a little, calling his special attention to the point that I did so at a great sacrifice for his special 58 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. \ benefit. My boss casually informed me that the component ingre- dients in its make up, vial, label and all, cost him less than twenty- five cents per ounce. I would not here disclose the confidence he then reposed in me, but he did so at his option, exacting no obliga- tion from me. Furthermore, in a few months after my engagement with him, I heard that he had to skedaddle to Mexico on account of some scaly tricks he had previously perpetrated, and that his name Jemison was an alias. However, I never wished the man any harm, nor did I try in any way to do him any. I have always entertained a feeling of kindness towards him, for my engagement with him, in selling his Painacheum drops, resulted in a respectable rise in my dilapidated pecuniary affairs. In offering these Painacheum drops for sale, I was often in- terrogated about its virtue. I invariably pointed to the label, and stated that I knew nothing of its component elements or intrinsic merits, and that I was only an agent employed in selling it ; that I never had occasion to test its effects. All of which was strictly true. At the same time, however, if such occasion had been offered, I doubt the probability of my having used it, for I entertained from the outset an uncompromising contempt for what I regarded as its medical worthlessness. Very often my customers, on failing to elicit their desired information, would ask, as a last resort, if my medicines had given general satisfaction so far as I had sold them. To which I invariably replied that I had heard no complaint of their short- coming. This was also strictly true. But I guess the reason was that I never went back the same road. Some of my Pharisaic readers may think that my own hide, as well as that of my proprietor, needed a currycomb, but they should remember that I was employed only as salesman, and knew nothing of its medical virtues or component elements. Nor did I assume to represent it in any way, invariably leaving that job to the face of the lab3l,Vhich was on when I received it. Nor do I know even to this day whether or not it possessed medical virtue, but merely speak condemnatory in accordance with my first and last impression, prompted by common reasoning. Furthermore, my fault-finding reader should remember that the infirmities of the human family are very great, and their perfections few, and that there are none of us so righteous that we can afford, without self-condemnation, to be un- charitable to the common errors incident by nature to us all. Yet many of us — TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 59 " From lessons, studied long, Gather courage, strength, and will, To battle onward, right or wrong. Through pleasure bright or fortune ill." My first peddling totir was in the great Brazos bottom, commencing ■near Waco and thence downward through several counties to the mouth of the Navasota river. The inhabitants of the Brazos bot- tom are a monopoly of negroes. You will find perhaps fifty negroes to one white man. They instinctively have quite a capricious admiration of and abiding faith in all peddlers and transient agents, especially if one is diked in a suit of Yankee blue. He can sell them anything, at any price, and no questions asked, except how to use it. My harvest through this bottom was quite a lucrative one. I seldom passed a family that did not take several vials of my all- healing painacheum drops, and the families were disseminated throughout the entire bottom as densely as tawny leaves in an autumn forest. As I have in previous chapters treated this bottom on its agricultural fertility, with all due notice I will omit further ■notice here. As I had a desire to survey the general prospects in the •south-eastern portion of the State, I left the Brazos near the town of Navasota in Grimes county, and traveled worm-like through all the eastern counties, selling my painacheum drops to nearly every family. I would sometimes meet with some salty rebuffs, but not more internally effective than pouring water on a goose ; it would roll off as fast as put on. In my rambles through this section I met a very old pioneer lady by the name of Cobb, whose story I think worth relating. She emigrated to Texas while in her teens, with her own family and two others, in the memorable days that General Sam Houston drove Santa Anna and his vandal hordes from the country. The three families settled near the Navasota river, isolated by a long dis- tance from any other family. The Indians migrated hither and thither throughout the country, but were friendly towards the -whites. There were no Mexicans in that section at that time. Wild Spanish ■cattle and horses, buffalo, antelope, deer, turkey, wolf, bear and many other native small game roamed the country at will. Meat was no object. Salt to season and preserve it was the only object worthy of consideration. As they had to go below Corpus Christi, several hundred miles to get it, and then transport it back home on ponies, wheat or other small grain was never seen in that section in 60 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. those days. As to corn, very little was required, only for bread, which they had to pound up into meal in a metallic mortar. There were no mills in that section in that day. The unbounded range furnished meat in superabundance. She said that one year they went from June until corn was made, and matured the next year, without bread, not one drop of rain having fallen that year from February to Christmas. Their little corn patch dried up in the drouth. About June they gathered the few dwarf nubbins, selected the best, and put them away for seed, and on the refuse nubbins they made a Ho-cake as a farewell to bread. The next bread that they tasted was when corn was ripe the next year. This account being rather astonishing to me, I inquired in what way they subsisted. She said they would pound up in a metallic mortar, dried jerked beef and knead it with fine chopped fresh meat, and bake it or cook it pudding-like, which made a very palatable and nutritious diet. I thought truly is necessity the parent of invention. As a great many may not know what jerked beef is, I will give a short elucida- tion : They kill a beef in summer and slice it up in very thin strips, and hang the strips without salt out in the sun and wind on ropes or otherwise, and let them dry. They are soon shrivelled up into a crisp, and if put away in a dry place where the wind can play upon them, they will remain sound, fresh, and all right for a long time. This mode of preserving summer beef is very common at this day among old Texans, many of whom I found in my rambles through- out the State, who are tenaciously hinged to their former habits, tastes, manners, and opinions, and to ingratiate yourself with them,. you must adopt to the letter their views and habits in general. They don't take to the late emigrant very magnetically. If the emigrant is honest and industrious and knows how to stay at home and attend to his own business and let other people and their business alone, they don't object to his citizenship, but when you come to indi- vidual intimacy of family association, they don't want any in them. Several emigrants have said to me that they have lived in sight of old Texans for several years, and that the lady members of the families had never got acquainted. As a general thing, the old Texan entertains a great aversion to anything in the way of bombast blandishment, Sunday fixing, or anything that can be dispensed with, and it is with great repugnance that they will tolerate it at all. But when you will pull off your coat. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. bl roll up your sleeves, and unbutton your collar in accordance with the precepts of old Mr. Fogg in the days of yore, then, and not until then, are you recognized as one among them. You can generally tell when you are approaching one of their domiciles, by seeing the backyard, kitchen, hor.se and cow lots, pig pens and chicken roosts, adorning the space between the house and the road; and if you should chance to see a brawny looking fellow with long frizzly hair lolling down his shoulders over a striped shirt, and brown duck pants, loitering around, fumigating a cob pipe, you have him spotted, and you had as well ride on by, for you are not likely to be received, especially if you have on store-bought clothes. To be explicit in this narration, I must say that you will occasion- ally meet some old resident and native families, who have changed front to the rear, and have fallen into the procession of modern pro- gress, who will receive and treat you with all the complacency at their command, and at their fixtures and commodities you will have no cause to complain. But such are the exception and not the rule. The country south and east of the Brazos and Navasota rivers pre- sents more of an undulating appearance until you approach the coast, when it sinks to an almost unbroken plain. This section is the lumber yard of Texas. It abounds in some of the most extensive long-leaf yellow pine forests that I have ever seen. The man that can't find tar and pine knots in this section to suit his taste and -domestic wants, must certainly be avaracious in the extreme. While the pine is largely in excess of other timber, it has not an absolute monopoly, for the streams and many plots between them are diver- sified with oak, hickory, cypress, and many other species of timber. As to rain fall in this section, it is more generally diffused at intervals in time when needed, than any other portion of the State. While most of these lands are fair farming lands, they are not so fertile by a considerable discount as the broad river bottoms and black prairies north and west of them. Yet, I believe a man can make a better living and do it easier and see more rollicking home fun in southeast Texas, than he can in any other section of the State. Deer, turkey, fish, and other small game in many places are at your taking. I have often seen at one sight, as I rode through these pine flats, from ten to forty deer in a herd, quietly nibbling at the tender buds and grasses; nor were they at all skittish, for I would often ride within ten paces of them. Some of them would throw up their thorny-looking heads and hop off a few paces, exhibiting the white side of a nubbing appendage, as though they were playing the courtesy at my informal 62 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. debut. In many places there are long intervals between farm houses, consequently the deer and other game have their native liberty to roam and loiter at will, unmolested by man or his track hound. Hence their gentleness. Late one evening I arrived at Cold Springs, the capital of the new county of San Jacinto. Before entering the suburbs I could hear a boisterous uproar going on in the place. On my entrance I saw about an acre and a half of solid negro wool perched on negro heads that were brimful of of crackbrain whiskey. I had hitherto thought that I had seen on Mumpford's prairie negro bum- kindom displayed to perfection, but I must confess that this filibus- tering tumult transcended all the hitherto bombastic niggerisdom that I had seen. It was only by the well-balanced sagacity of Colonel Cleveland, in his intrepid interposition, that the commotion was quelled. If my memory serves me correctly, this Colonel Cleveland was an emigrant there from Dallas County, Alabama, and to him and kin- dred spirits must be accredited the great improvements fostered in law and order about the place since that day. Near this place I struck the Trinity river, and reaped another lucrative harvest in sell- ing my Painacheum drops. Just after crossing to the east side of the Trinity, I had a lively little frolic with some wolves. I noticed them chasing a calf several hundred yards away. As I approached near them I saw that they had the calf prostrated. My Navy Six was all the available imple- ment of warfare that I had along with me. As I rode up near them,. one of the wolves scampered off to the brush. But the other tena- ciously clinched his throat-grip upon the calf. My pony was any- thing but gentle, and I could not spur him up as near as I wished, and, lest I might lose my opportunity, I opened fire on them, but with no perceptible effect, until the fourth shot penetrated the spine of one of them. My pony became so restive and intractable that I had to let him go away, lest he might, in his e.xasperated frenzy, pitch me off and leave me. In about a mile I came to a house and reported my exploit, which very readily secured me a night's lodging, with the understanding that I would go back after supper with my host and assist him in putting out poisons. On getting back to the battlefield, we found my wounded wolf unable to get away, and we expedited his effort with another ball. Evidence of other voracious animals were quite palpably seen on the body of the calf. No doubt they were still in the immediate vicinity, having scampered off at our TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 63 approach. The poison was lavishly applied to the torn flesh of the calf, and we returned to the house. My host reported at breakfast next morning that he had gone back at daylight and found three wolves stone dead. Breakfast over, I bid my host adieu and took the road leading to the famous Sour lake of Texas. The peculiarities of this lake, its surroundings and widespread notoriety, renders it worthy of notice in these pages, which will be made in the following chapter. CHAPTER XII. Mineral waters — The great pineries and mills — Ramble northward — Items of interest on the way. THE famous Sour lake of Southeast Texas lays claim to some peculiarities worthy of notice. If I remember correctly, it is located near the southern boundary of Harden county, some eight or ten miles from the New Orleans railroad, and about sixty miles east from Houston. Its immediate locality is in a grove of oaks. The country around about is comparatively level, and equally divided bet\Veen prairie and timber. A man naturally inclined to sport with a gun can here find a field replete with a variety of game upon which he can at will indulge his sportive proclivities to his heart's content, all the way up from a jack road rabbit to a huge black bear. Fishing is also splendid in the bayous near by. The hotel at the lake will amply verify the abundance of game, as you will, according to season, find the table heavy laden with a good variety, done up in the various styles and suited to the most fastidious tastes. This lake is a round pond of sour water, ranging from two to six feet deep, and covering, I guess, nearly two acres. The bottom of the lake has a hard surface, very commodious to bathers, as it will not muddy. The water is continually bubbling up, caused by gas escaping from the earth beneath. Nothing lives in this lake except a small bug. I have often seen the same species of bug playing in many ponds or tanks in various sections of the State. I was told that fish, snakes, frogs, &:c., would die immediately if put into this lake. Ducks often float on its bosom, exhibiting no perceptible effect. This sour water is said to be a great auxiliary to a debilitated or dyspeptic stomach, increasing the appetite and promoting digestion. The most remarkable features that are claimed by many who visit and write about this lake and its concomitants, is the diversified nature or quality of the water in the many little wells in close prox- imity. Around this lake, I think the latest reports has the number of different and distinct qualities of water up in the teens. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 65 I have never scientifically studied geology or mineralogy, nor do I lay claim to any specific knowledge of either, but common native reasonology, based on natural causes and results, leads me to the conclusion that there are but two distinct qualities or kinds of water at or about this lake. I think the mistake that many people make in classifying these waters is in the error they make in attributing the different grades of the same water to distinct qualities or kinds of water. As to the number of wells around this lake, you can get almost as many as you will dig holes for. The surface seems to be saturated with water. Many of these wells are in the same ebullient condition as the mother lake. This identity in quality, though vary- ing a shadow in grade, can be easily traced to the same fountain head. The other class of water is found in the little wells around the lake. It has a strong alkaline or tar taste, and its surface is covered over with a sheet of petroleum. The different amounts of this petroleum that exude from the earth with the water at different places, giving different grades to the same component elements, I think, will account for the variety and distinction claimed for the multifarious distinctive waters. The ideas that I have advanced are based on the following facts: Petroleum floats on the surface of the water, at the tar springs in Burnett county; it appears again in the southeast of Williamson county, and in various places along the line of the Northern Rail- road. Again, a few miles northwest of Sour lake, and right at Sour lake. Again it apears southeast of Beaumont; again at Sabin Pass it floats upon the water; again below Sabin Pass it floats on the water to such an extent that a bay there is called the oil bay of the Gulf. The water is so heavy laden with oil, that the waves have but little effect. I think the foregoing facts are amply sufficient to account for the different grades of the same water. After leaving Sour lake I traversed the great southeastern pineries of Texas, and at a later date I visited some of the leading mills which are the lumber marts of the State. Some of these are of mag- nificent proportion as well as interest. On my first visit to that section, in the early days after the war between the States, I found all business enterprises greatly demoralized, and not until within the last few years did this section begin to develop its unlimited resources in the lumber and shingle business. Its exhaustless forests abound in long leaf yellow pine and cypress. Of late years brains, enter- prise and capital, have taken hold on this native store of wealth, and 66 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. magnificent results are to be palpably seen, looming up in lucrative returns on money and labor expended. While this branch of business far exceeds anything in its line that I know of within the State, it has not, by upwards of many degrees, attained its full growth. Supply and demand being the main spring to upward and onward progress, its future greatness is permanent and secure. The supply in crude material will be for generations ta come inexhaustible. The demand for these supplies, emanating as they do from boundless bleak and barren prairies Westward for hundreds of miles, will render the progressive greatness of this lumber business a fixed perpetuity. CHAPTER XIII. Further rambles North and West — A deceitful snare skillfully laia to entrap and rob me — My purse and filchers missing — Fruitless search for them — General items of importance — Hedge and stone fencing — Scarcity of timber — Shertnan and its importatice — Mono- poly of capital — Hints to the unwary. HAVING sold out my crop and closed up my business affairs in Cherokee County, my roving proclivities led me to further rambles. I went by way of Kicapoo into Henderson County. When I got within about ten miles of Athens, the capital of Hender- son County, I rode up to two civil looking men seated on the road- side eating their dinner. I halted and inquired the way and dis- tance to Athens. They very politely answered all my inquiries, and in the meantime remarked that they were going to Athens, having been summoned there as jurymen for that week in court, and neigh- bor-like they invited me to dismount and take a luncheon with them, we would all then go on together to Athens. Their civilty in every way led me to think that I had run into a streak of good luck, and accordingly I dismounted. While there one of them asked me if I could give him change for twenty dollars. As I thought it now my turn to show an accommodating disposition, I readily did so. Much as I had hitherto been hoodwinked into dark ways and diabolical tricks, it afforded me no light in this instance. We were soon mounted and on the way to Athens, arriving there just after dark. It being court week, the place was flooded over with people attending court, and otherwise. The hotel was flooded over, and it seemed that we were not likely to find a place to lodge for the night. One of my companions, after some rambling around, returned and reported that we could get our horses fed at a wagon, by a man who had for- age, and that we could lunch around town, and sleep on our blank- ets in the court house. This programme seeming to be the only alternative, I went with them. As there was considerable stirring around town, it was late before we retired ; but we finally did so, and in the morning I awoke, not only to find my companions gone, but my purse also. I at once 68 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. Started out in search of them. I went first to the wagon where we left our horses. On my inquiry, the man at the wagon said, "Those two men that came here with you returned during the night and rode their horses away." I inquired if he knew them. "No," said he, *' I never saw them before." One of these men told me his name before we came to town, but as it was an uncommon name, I could not recall it again. But no doubt it w^as an alias. I made diligent search for them for two days, but no intelligence of them could I ever procure. They were evidently frontier thieves, prowling around in search of a victim. This they easily found in my inconsiderate self. Their object in asking me to make change for them, was evi- dently to see if I had money, and where about my person I kept it. All this seemed very evident after they were gone, but of all things the most unsuspected in the outset. Some of my readers may be ready to say that I acted very indiscreetly ; but to such I have only to say that if our fore sights were only half so perceptible as our hind sights, we would be a wonderful people. Solomon's wisdom would have faded into insignificance long, long ago. These sneak thieving slinks along the frontier know full well how to demean them- selves acceptably in any society. They are the very best judges of human nature, having made it a life-long study, and can very soon weigh a man and locate his person. A late report of the Attorney General of the State of Texas computes the number of fugitives from justice at six thousand. About one thousand of these are for murder, the remaining five thousand for thieving and kindred offences. I think I would be safe in saying, that not half of the frontier thieves have yet been discovered. Hence it behooves every- one traveling on the frontier to fortify himself with eternal vigilance. From Athens I traveled northward by Kaufman, Dallas and Sher- man. After leaving Athens you enter upon the high rolling prairies of North Texas, and as you go the waves and swells rise higher and higher, in undulations of graceful and beautiful scenery, and each eve, as the sun, amid the scarlet robes of his flaming glory, recedes beyond the Western horizon. CHAPTER XIV. A ramble up and down Red rwer — Diversity of soil and productive- ness — Items of general interest to the contemplative emigrant — A tour through the Indian Territory — Items of general interest — Habits, tnanners and style of Indian life — A pretty, intelligent and civilly disposed Indian girl — Her hospitality and presents to me — Prominent traits of Indian character — General appear- ance of the country — Return to Texas. BEFORE I left the vicinity of Sherman, I traveled over the adja- cent sections up and down Red river. I had no other object in view but to appease a roving curiosity and gain information of the country and its varied inhabitants. The Indians, though tame, so-called civilized and accustomed to the white man, I found a little shy and diffident. I saw a few white men among them, and I often thought from these specimens that the Indian was somewhat justifi- able in his want of confidence in the pale face. These men, to all appearances, were as devoid of white principles as they were of white associates. I felt that my safety would be more secure in the hands of the red than the white man. Where I crossed the Washita river, the ferry was kept by a white man. His deportment and general appearance gave me more uneasiness than any other man that I met in that country. I asked him if I could ford the stream. He said, " If you are a good swimmer you might risk it," leaving the impression that the channel was deep. I asked him his charges for ferrying me over, and he said " five dollars." I told him that I would risk swimming my horse through before I would pay that price. He saw that my determins- tion was bold and solid, and he commenced coming down in his price, and finally got as low as fifty cents, which I paid him. As we went across, it was all that he could do to float his diminutive craft over the shallow water. I don't think any part of the stream was over three feet deep. But he had the best of me by four bits, and as he was at home and I was not, I concluded that a little mute philosophy was better than an outburst of bravado. On landing, he wanted to examine my navy six and everything else about me. Evi- 70 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. dently to pave the way to a robbery. 1 saw that I would be compelled to discourage his impudent intrusions, and I abruptly rode away from him. I had by this time been long enough among the frontier roughs to learn something of their inside character and outside tactics. A thorough knowledge of these is indispensable to your safety while among them. After getting over into the Chickasaw nation, my rations began to diminish, so low, that I thought at the first Indian villa I would make an effort to replenish. The most of these villas are quite small, only a few shanties clustered together. I generally found them near a stream of water. At one of these villas I halted in the afternoon for the purpose of getting water and replenishing my rations. I had ridden all day without crossing water, and was quite thirsty. As I rode up to the shanties, several old squaws made their appearance, and a herd of children loitering around the place. I looked around for men. Presently, a huge old man came poking out with a greasy buckskin sack or coat on, and a fantastic foxskin cap perched over his pumpkin-looking face, with the long, bushy tail trailing over his shoulders; around the brow was some beautifully arranged rows of various colored beads, in imitation of a wreath of vines and flowers. Though badly abused by use, the workman- ship exhibited some skill and taste. The old fellow was rather tardy in approaching me, and, as I thought under the circumstances, it was my place to approach him, I did so, and spoke as politely as possible. He replied in a few short grunts, that were about as intel- ligible to me as the grunt of a hog. He soon saw that I did not understand him, and spoke to a boy standing by who instantly bounded off some hundred yards or more to a shanty. Then out came the best looking Indian girl that I saw in the territory. Her features were regular and delicate, and, for a swarthy Indian, she was pretty. I noticed, as she came towards me, that she was dressed in American lady-like style, and walked with some dignity of move- ment. As she approached I saw that her dress was neatly made, and trimmed with a gaudy display of fancy beads and other trinkets, especially about her breast and arms. When she came near, the old man said something to her. She then turned her face towards me and smiled pleasantly, and spoke fluently in English. I told her my wants; she turned to the old man and told him. He replied. She then said to me that her father said go to their house, which I did. She took the lead and the old man brought up the rear. At their shanty I dismounted. The old man offered to take my bridle, and. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 71 as I hesitated a little, the girl politely spoke, and said that her father wanted to send my horse to water. I gave up the bridle a little tardily, which the girl took notice of, and I perceived that she then entered more familiarly into general conversation, while she busied herself setting out a boiled hash of meat, from the appearance of which 1 could not define its origin. I kept thinking about that old fox from whom the old man got his cap. However, I was hungry, and enjoyed my lady's banquet extremely. When my repast was over, I asked to get a supply of raw meat to take along with me. She pulled down from a rack several long strips of jerked bull or buffalo steak, and courteously handed them to me with a lump of hard salt. I told her that I had plenty crackers with me, and did not wish anything more. The old man was seated on a singularly- contrived stool, made of twigs of brushwood. He looked at me but seldom, seeming to keep his eyes fixed on vacancy. But when he did give me a glance, his piercing black eyes seemed fero- cious enough to dart through me. I noticed that he said something to his daughther, whereupon she asked me if I was a preacher, or a teacher, to which I replied in the negative. She said her father thought I was, and then remarked that she had been going to school to a preacher, which I had already suspected, as she kept trying to play the tactics of a white lady, and to her credit, I must say, she imitated very well. I inquired about the men folks of the place; she said they were gone down on the river, hunting. I asked her if they would trouble me, should they meet me; she said, " No," and went into the house, returning with the nicest bracelet I ever saw, and placed it around my wrist. " Tell my people," said she, " that I gave it to you," She gave her name, but I never could repeat it again. The bracelet was a skillful contrivance, ingeniously fixed up with vari- ous kinds and colors of beads woven on hair; she said it was her own work, and the hair grew upon her own head. It was also decorated with seven bits of silver, one in the centre and three on either side, and had curious engravings on them. I supposed, from their size, that they were made from half dimes. She said those bits of silver were her fathers, saying that the first one was her father, at the same time pointing at the old man, and that the next was his father, and so on. I supposed, from her explanation, that the seven bits of sil- ver represented the chain of her forefathers, traditionally kept in the family. As she was explaining things, the old man came near by and would occassionally grunt, while she would speak very good English. I became very much interested in the family, and would 12 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. have liked to learn more about them, but night was coming, and I wanted to get away before the men of the place returned. Every- thing seemed civil, but I did not like to risk too much, and I pre- ferred roosting upon the plains. On leaving, I offered to pay the young lady for her kind hos- pitality, and I, having pulled out a handful of silver, commenced picking out some half dollar pieces, when she pointed out the dimes and nickels, indicating that t/iey suited her best. I guessed she wished to use them in garnishing her trinkets. So I held out silver and let her select for herself. She picked out three or four dimes and as many nickels, and seemed quite proud of them as well as satisfied. I noticed that while she was otherwise rather loquacious, that on many questions she was quite mute. The old man kept a vigilant eye upon me all the time I was handling the money, and I thought, to make things amicable all around, I would offer him a piece of silver, and picked out a bright eagle half dollar. He looked at it on both sides, and then made motion as though he would hang it on his ear. I looked round at the girl and she timidly said that her father would put it on his ear if he had one for the other one. I gave him another eagle half. This spread, for the first time, a broad grin over his face, which was the first pleasant look that he gave me. By this time, an old squaw poked her saffron-hued face out of the door. I thought to make fair weather throughout the camp ; I must not slight her, and I offered her a couple of nickels. She at first de- clined to receive them, but when the bonny lass explained it to her, she stuck out her yellow shrivelled paw and received them with a grin that would have shamed an old gray Sand Hill possum. As I gathered up my trumpery to start away, the boy brought up my horse, and as he had been a faithful custodian, I gave him a couple of nickels. At this epoch, the old man grunted something at his daughter, and she bounded off into the shanty and returned with a pair of the nicest white dressed and bead, ornamented buckskin leggins that I ever have seen. The background represented a green prairie lawn, with small cedar bushes, and white and yellow flowers disseminated at intervals in a bird's-eye view extending to a great distance. Up the centre, from the foot, rambled a large mustang grapevine, entwined with graceful tendrills, heavy laden with full- grown fruit. Interspersed were bright plumed birds, apparently gamboling in fantastic and playful delight. This work evinced no lethargic or dumpish brain, but a bright, skillful and reflective intellect. TFN YEAKS IN TEXAS. 73 The old man presented them to me with a roll of grunts, pointing his finger to the work and then to his daughter, who, as interpreter, said : " Father make you a present, and tell you that me made them for him." I received them with several gigantic far-fetched military scrapes and hat-lifting bows. The bonny lass responded with a desperate effort in imitation of a coquettish college belle. The old man give me his hand with a hearty shake and another roll of grunts, which his daughter translated as "good luck" to me, and "come again." After getting away and inspecting my presents, I thought the least that could be said of them was, that the workmanship equalled in taste and skill that of our tutored college belles, and that the bonny lass had some admiration for the pale face, and that the old man had no ob- jections, provided the pale face was liberal. The bracelet and leg- gins would be a beauty and ornament anywhere. This, coupled with the novelty of my getting them, persuaded me to take care of them and keep them as mementoes of the Indian girl I met upon the Western plains. But to my great regret, while on a later trip to Mexico, a sneak-thieving Mexican slink stole them. Since the last ten or twelve years I have had more or less dealings with both Indian and Mexican, and upon the whole, from all .that I have seen or experienced, the Indian is by nature far the most hon- orable and noble of the two. There are, notwithstanding the many bloody and unrelenting outrages committed by them upon our pioneer citizens, traits in their native character, at once noble, mag- nanimous, high spirited, and devoted. An evidence of this in the history of the two races, from the devoted and self-sacrificing Poca- hontas, and the perfidious and inimical Santa Anna, to the present day, can be easily found. The Indian is naturally averse and insubordinate to the injunction placed upon the children of Adam. He will not toil for his bread, while the Mexican, to some little extent, will. Yet the latter is as devoid of principle as a yellow dog is of soul. As to the general appearance of the country in this section, it is not dissimilar to that of North Texas. In my Northwest rambles, I found the fertility of the soil, grazing, and salubrity of tlie climate, all that could be desired. But water and timber, equal to the necessities of a rural home, are not there. After getting as far West as Fort Sill, and loitering around several days, I set my compass for Montague, Texas. The weather was 74 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. warm and dry, rendering the dewy robes of evening twilight balmy and refreshing, and I found the entertainment of mine host, Mr. Prairie Spralls, very pleasant. After plodding along for several days, feasting my eyes upon novel and romantic scenery, I reached Mon- tague, in good health and spirits, tolerably well satisfied with iny trip. But myself and horse often suffered from the scarcity of water. While much may be claimed in the acquisition of knowledge by travel, yet my experience persuades me that its principal merits are embraced in the solace of our ideal fancies, and that our time could be more pleasantly and profitably spent in the fruition obtained in the pursuits of domestic vocations. CHAPTER XV. Met my old comrade Garrett at Fort Worthy who joined me in my Westward rambles — Scarcity of water — Beautiful scenery — Items of general interest to contemplative emigrants — Interview with an old resident Baptist minister — A distant view of Kiowa Peak — A lively frolic with some Indians — Casualties — A thirsty night ride — Salt fork of the Brazos — Mountain spring — California trail — Parted with Mr. Garrett, the most faithful friend I ever met. I have now reached Fort Worth. Here I met my old stock-specu- lating friend Mr. Garrett, from whom I was so abruptly separated in a stock stampede a few years previous. Mr. Garrett, like my- self, was on the wing, and as our mutual course pointed Westward, we migrated thitherward in company. After leaving Fort Worth, and before reaching Granbury, in Hood county, upon a long stretch of prairie, night came upon us, and with the night came one of those famous, rip-roaring northers, so common to that section. It came so suddenly, and with such terrific fury, that we had no time to select a refuge or make any prerequisite defence, As the first whiffs began to sport around us, Mr. Garrett's horse bounded off and left me. My horse became so frantic that I thought, for the safety of my neck and other uninsured ligaments, that I had best slide off and anchor to a tuft of grass. By the time I emptied the saddle my horse was out of sight, bounding off in pur- suit of Garrett with the velocity of a bullet. As I was on a knoll where the cyclopia whiffs of wind had full play upon me, I thought it best to scramble off down grade, where the impetus of the wind would be somewhat averted. In going over a space of about a hun- -dred yards, I think I made at least a dozen somersaulting tumbles, gouging my elbows and knees into black, adhesive mud, and against fragments of flinty rock, scarifying and bruising the flesh in a most ridiculous and unmerciful manner. The elements were as dark as the shady side of despair ever gets. The rain was not falling, but flowing in torrents with the wind. As I was toddling off down grade in search of a refuge, I suddenly stepped off into a road-side ^ully about six feet deep, and bumping my head and breast against 76 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. the opposite embankment, fell backward, sprawling in a sluice of ten or fifteen inches of muddy water. After a desperate effort, I scrambled to my feet and endeavored to crawl out, but the banks were so slick and steep that I could not get a hold upon them. The wind was capering around over the banks in such a boisterous man- ner, that I could not stand up. And right there, in a sluicing black prairie gully, I had to squat and shiver until morning, when Garrett returned with my horse. He said that he went about three miles, where he found a break in the prairie that afforded him a little shelter from the violence of the wind. I mounted, and we rode on until about noon, when we came to a creek, where we washed and scraped off the most conspicuous daubs of mud, and built a fire and dried up. As I was in a more bunged-up condition than Garrett, he left me in charge of camp and rode off a mile or two to a farm house and replenished our demolished supply of rations. Here we bivouacked and recuperated until morning. In the morning we resumed our tramp, somewhat refreshed. But if I had a provoked spite at any man on earth, my revengeful spirit could not be more greatly appeased than to know that I had precipitated him into just such a predicament as I had gone through. On my way to Granbury, I saw nothing worthy of mention more than such scenery of bleak and barren prairies as the reader has already gone over. In going west from Hood county, after leaving the outskirts of the cross timbers, you enter upon an extensive prairie,, its monotony only broken at intervals by mountain knobs, and occa- sionally by narrow valleys, through which the rainfall is conveyed southward, but-generally in summer devoid of water, except in small stagnant pools. I crossed a few streams at great intervals that had running water, seeming to be fed from mountain springs. I could transport water for myself, but my poor horse, with whom I greatly sympathized, must have often suffered. I remember one occasion when we went two days without crossing water. We finally concluded that our horses must have water or they would faint and sink from under us. On arriving at a valley where there had been a creek, we followed its trail downward for two or three miles in search of a hole of water, but found none. We finally found a damp hole in the bend of the creek, at the foot of the bluff, and as this seemed to be the only alternative between hope and despair, we dismounted. With my Arkansas toothpick I hacked out a wooden spade, and with our tin cups for a bucket we dug a well. By the time we got as deep as our arms could reach, the earth became very damp — almost muddy. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 77 We took seats and waited to see the results of our efforts. Our diminutive well soon filled up several inches deep with water. We dipped it up with our cups and imbibed freely of as cold and pure water as I ever tasted. Our thirsty horses seemed to know that we had found water, as they pawed the earth in a most restless manner. How to give them some of the refreshing drops was a perplexing problem. I finally thought of my hat, and, dipping up with my cup, filled my hat and gave to the horses. Garrett did the same. Our horses' thirst seemed unquenchable. As a hatful would about empty our diminutive well, we had to wait at each hatful for the water to rise again. This consumed some time, allaying the parch- ing thirst of ourselves and our horses ; and right here at the fount we bivouacked for the night, resting and imbibing, until morning. Such dry streaks as this are not infrequent in summer from the head of the Colorado river, west and southwest, to Mexico. Yet I see some writers claim an abundance of both water and timber for all ordinary or domestic purposes. If it is there, I failed to find it, while my rambles for ten years penetrated, worm-like, nearly every ■section of the State. As to timber, it is true there are strips of gravelly post-oak land interspersed through the country, but such timber is totally unfit for the improvement of a farm, and can only be used for stock ranches. The stock men have no use for timber, except for fuel and to build a pen for branding purposes. Where you find land suited to an agricultural farm, you will find it, to a great extent, devoid of both timber and water. We were now as far west as the vicinity of Kiowa Peak, in Stonewall county, on the Salt fork of the Brazos, to which point we were going for the purpose of ascending the peak, and taking a more extensive view of the surrounding country. We were trav- •eling by compass and alongside of a range of precipitous hills. We had seen for some distance a gap across these hills, and were making for that point, with a view of crossing there, and a hope of finding a trail. As we approached within half a mile of the gap, we were passing obliquely by a clump of brushwood, several hun- dred yards to our right, and I noticed three Indians ride out to the «dge of the timber and halt. I called Garrett's attention to them, and suggested that we had best try and make the gap before they would cut us oft'. I thought that they would be likely to try to do so, and that they were pioneers of a large band. Garrett wanted to go for them and give them lead, but I thought that it was sometimes •expedient for a man to be a philosopher as well as a soldier, and 78 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. that this was one of the times. As I persisted in my tactics to make the gap before they did, Garrett acquiesced, and off we bounded. The Indians saw our object at once, and simultaneously made for the same point. As we had about the same distance, the acquisition depended upon the fleetest horse. Notwithstanding that we were riding good American horses and the Indians common mustang ponies, I noticed that their velocity was greater than I desired. I further knew that as we were running obliquely to the same point they would be likely to get in arrow range of us before we could make the gap. I also knew that they could aim as accurately under full speed as if standing still. All this stimulated my heels in the riveting application of my Mexican persuaders. Garrett's horse led mine by thirty feet or more. When we got within about two hundred yards of the gap, the Indians were about one hundred yards of us,, obliquely to the rear. The next moment I saw an arrow fly between me and Garrett, and the next moment an arrow struck the rear of my saddle, splitting the wood off, and only impeded in its bloody course by an iron bar on the tree of the saddle, and by the next moment an arrow cut an ugly flesh gash across the hip of Garrett's horse. By the next we were in the gap, about face, and throwing lead at them. We had made only two or three shots when they wheeled about and retreated in a gallop. When they got away some two liun- dred yards, one of them dismounted and got up behind one of the others, and went away, leading his horse. This movement assured us that one of their horses at least was wounded. Garrett was very anxious to pursue them, but I thought that philosophy was again the best policy. I felt satisfied that these three were not all that were in the vicinity, and that they would soon rally to the report of our guns. I prevailed again in my philosophical tactics, and we rode away. After we had halted in the gap, which was not more than forty feet wide, the Indians sent a dozen or more arrows whizzing over our heads. They shot too high. Only two of them struck us. One went through the brim of Garrett's hat, and the other, after pene- trating a double blanket, overcoat, under-coat, vest and under clothing, scratched a flesh wound on my left side, and penetrated the same routine of clothing in my rear, until the double fold of my blanket stopped its reckless course. This arrow-head was chiseled out of blue flint. Its workmanship exhibited skill and taste. It& barb was neatly grooved in an arrow made of bois d'arc and closely entwined with a rawhide thong. I cut the string, took the arrow- TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 79 head out and packed it away with the bracelet and leggins given me by the Indian girl, with a view of in future exhibiting them, con- trasting their designs as evidence of the difference between igno- rance and education. But, as I have already stated, while I was on a later trip to Mexi- co, a saffron-hued, mackerel-eyed Mexican slink stole them. From this interesting fandango we traveled all night due South, with a double purpose. First we were compelled to reach water. Secondly we had some apprehension about the movements of the Indians. We crossed no water during the night, but early in the morning we rode into the salt fork of the Brazos. Here we found water, but it was so briny that we could use but little of it ; nor did our thirsty horses imbibe much, and we rode on until past noon, when we very unex- pectedly rode UQ to a mountain spring rivulet, wending its tiny way from the mountain side to the valley below. Here we dismounted and refreshed the inner man with the (as I then thought) most pure and sparkling water that I ever tasted. Here we rested until morn- ing. Then we rode on through another wearisome day until late at night, when we suddenly came into a road. As we were not aware of this road, and did not exactly know our geographical whereabouts, we dismounted and bivouacked until morning, when two men passed by and told us that we were on the old CaHfornia emigrant trail, and some distance west of Camp Cooper. Mr. Garrett's horse was evidently giving way from the effects of the wound that he received by the arrow from the hands of the In- dians, and he concluded to go to Fort Belknap, where he had some friends, and there rest up. As I wished to explore the country southward, I set my compass for Fort Grififin, and there and then I parted with one of the truest and bravest friends I ever had. As to his fidelity, I believe he would have died by me. As to his bravery, he would fight a cross-cut saw naked handed. CHAPTER XVI. / reluctantly parted with my friend Garrett — A lonely rainble — Mag- nificent scenery — A lonely man hanging to a tree — A hazardous plunge of my horse over a precipice in darkness — Appalling night — Daylight discloses my critical situation — Hazardous escape — Items of interest — Conti7iued mountain and dale scenery — Beautiful and healthy region^ but devoid of 7vater — First glimpse of the Cado Peaks — Big hole of water — Evidence of man and beast— ■■ . Killed a cub bear — A glorious repast on cub — Indians hove in sight — Narrow escape — White men in pursuit — / iva^ suspected of con- spiracy with the Indians — My escape — Arrived at and ascended Cado Peak — Beautiful Alpine scenery — Shot at and chased by robbers — My horse dies — I plod alo?ig on foot to the Brazos. IT was with much reluctance that I parted with my friend Garrett. I felt that I must now go alone through a wild and thinly-popu- lated country, infested with diabolical and rapacious bandits, and liable at all times to be visited by the hair-lifting red man of the Western plains. All these reflections had sufficient weight to attract some serious considerations, but my indomitable temerity overbal- anced them all, and away I went. The scenery along the route now was grand. Often would I halt my horse upon a knoll or knob and gaze around with rapture, whis- pering to myself, " right here I want to build my castle and live for- ever." ; The second day out from the California trail, I run into a trail V\ leading in the direction of Fort Griffin, and as it suited my pur- poses, I followed it up. Late that evening, as I was plodding along, weary and worn, in lonely meditation, my horse suddenly shied to one side. On turning to see the cause of his scare-up, I, for the second time in Texas, saw, only a few paces from the trail, a lonely man hanging by a rope to the limb of a tree. Such scenes as this, ab- ruptly presented to a lonely man in a lonely country, have anything but a pleasant effect. They are capable of unnerving and chilling the most intrepid heart. I looked around to see what I could dis- cover. I saw nothing but some scraps of paper torn up and scattered about the place. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. ol I dismounted- and gathered up several bits of the paper, on which I read the isolated words : " Brownsville, Uvalde, Tom Green," and others. This man was very shabbily dressed, and was fast decaying. The scene was too shocking and the atmosphere too unpleasant to remain here, and I rode away.v Night soon came on and I concluded to stay and rest until morning. I dismounted, staked my horse, eat a snack, and retired. But the appalling scenes of the evening kept looming up before my horror-stricken imagination in such hideous forms that I could not for a moment think of sleep. And as my horse had grazed to his fill, I rigged up and rode away. The clouds were beginning to spread over the upper elements, shutting out the skylight and shrouding the surroundings in dark- ness. But I thought as the prairie was open, I could find my way clearly, and did so for several miles. The clouds were now gathering to such a density that I began to think about halting for the night, but as I was on down grade, I thought that water, which both myself and horse needed, might not be far ahead. I would go on to it and there bivouac till morning. The surroundings was getting as dark as the sooty side of mid- night ever gets, and I cou'd not see anything at all. I gave my horse the bridle, and trusted to his visual guidance. But I soon discoved, by his stumbling over uneven tufts of grass, that he had lost the trail. By the time I made a mile or so, my horse abruptly plunged over a precipice. Extremely fortunate as it was, he recovered himself at a distance of about twelve feet, and remained in staunch position. His sudden precipitous movement threw my body off a balance, but 1 fortunately caught upon his neck, and received no further damage than a big scare and a little stomach jolt- ing. When my thinking apparatus got right side up, I thought that I could hear the ripple of a stream of water far down below me. I was afraid to move lest I might plunge over a greater precipice and unjoint my neck. I concluded I would dismount and anchor until morning. When daylight appeared, I found that I had rode over the first embankment of a large creek, and had lodged on a shoulder of it, about twenty feet wide and forty long. The next precipice went down almost perpendicular for thirty feet or more, terminating on a craggy bed of rock in a channel thirty or forty feet wide. Had I gone over this embankment, instant death would have been the result. The distance that I came down in the dark was about twelve feet. Such a leap as this by the best horse and rider in daylight, 82 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. would have been extremely hazardous, to say nothing of an abrupt precipitation, amid the darkest of darkness. How to extricate myself from my pent-up and perilous predica- ment, was a question of no little importance. On looking around, I found that one end of my platform had a gradual declivity, but very steep, more so than a triangular roof; I saw that this was my only chance for escape. I stripped my horse and started him sliding down; and a slide it was, for he never made a step after starting, but slid on his feet to the bottom. I tumbled my saddle and other trumpery overboard and prepared to take a slide myself; but, by going feet foremost, cat-like, I made the descent without a slide. The opposite side of the stream was a sand bar, and I had no further trouble. I don't think that my horse ever got over it. I continued eastward until I struck the range of mountains run- ning south from Fort Griffin, in the direction of the Cado peaks. As I had heard much said about the beautiful, picturesque scenery afforded by ascending these peaks, I concluded to repair thither- ward. For the greater part of the way, my route lay in the valleys,, occasionally crossing mountain inlets, as the valleys elbowed around them. The views in these valleys are not extensive', being restrained within the confines of parallel ridges ; but a more charming valley scenery would be hard to find. Sometimes as straight as an arrow for miles, overlaid with a deep green-sward, interspersed with clumps of live oak. Intermingled with its tiny leaves and twigs was a dense drapery of dwarfy gray moss. Then again, the valley, worm-like, would crawl around the inlet spurs of mountains, which was either a profile of perpendicular craggy bluffs, or a more graduated decli- vity, mantled with green shruberry. Sometimes my trail would go directly across these protruding arms, while the valley would circle around them. These elevations at intervals were productive of a beatific effect, alternating the low short-sighted monotony of the valley with impos- ing views of blue mountain knobs, and terraces rising in waves higher and higher, as far as the eye could reach, and would finally recede behind a glimmering surface of sombre hues upon the horizon. These lands, especially the valleys, are fertile in the extreme, being found, upon analysis, to be a composition made up from the wastes of calcarious magnesian and gypsious rocks, commingled with a con- glomerated mass of vegetable matter, that has been germinating and decomposing ever since Commodore Noah quit paddling around in his dugout. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 8S The atmosphere is all purity, balmy and bracing, and a more beau- tiful or healthful region in which to locate a rural home, would, indeed, be hard to find. Yet, all this beauty, healthfulness and agricultural fertility, must, like the rose of the forest, bloom and fade, " wasting its fragrance on the desert air," for there are no flowing streams there to allay the suffocating thirst of animal creation. Nor does the clerk of the weather often visit there to disseminate his life- giving fluid over the thirsty drooping heads of inanimate creation, I found a few diminutive streams flowing feebly from the foot of the mountains, but they were so few, feeble, and far between, that they would not sustain animal life to any extent. I finally hove in sight of the Cado Peaks, whose magnificent prominence may be seen many miles away. I was on one of those ledges that overlook the valley below. As it was a beautiful place, I was tempted to bivouac for the night, but I descried down at the foot of the mount a clump of timber, that I thought indicated the prox- imity of water, and as myself and horse were both in need, I went thither, and luckily found at the foot of the hill a good sized hole of water. The water was not running from the fount, but as it was clear, cold and pure, I concluded that it must be fed from a spring from under the mount. I also noticed many tracks of various ani- mals, which led me to the further conclusion that many of them came from a distance to imbibe the cooling and refreshing drops. After allaying the thirst of myself and horse, and filling my can- teen, I concluded to go out into the valley and rest until morning. As I was nearing the outer edge of the timber surrounding the water hole, I saw a small black cub bear. Instantly he was shot down. For fear that the mother was nearby, I remained on my horse awhile, gun in hand, ready for anything that might appear, but nothing hove in sight. I dismounted, and on examination found my cub plump and fat. As he was small, I packed him on my horse and rode out to a suitable camping place. There I dressed and barbecued him. Not- withstanding my fixings were rough, my cub was fat and tender, and a more luscious feast than I there enjoyed on cub and hard tack would be hard to get up. It was after midnight before I got through indulging my voracious appetite and packing up, preparatory for movements at a moment's warning, a precaution invariably indispen- sable while on the frontier. The morning dawned beautiful and bright, and by tlie time old Sol's red eyebrows began to peep over the eastern hills, I was in my saddle. I took no breakfast this morning, as I felt quite sensibly the 84 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. Stupefying effects of an overdose of cub. I thought it advisable to go by the water hole and bathe, water my horse and fill my canteen. By the time I was through this operation, my horse threw up his head and pointed his ears down the valley in a manner expressive of curiosity. I at once mounted and rode out to the edge of the timber to see what was atttacting his attention. Before I emerged to the open space, I discovered a herd of Indians coming up the valley directly towards me. They were not more than a quarter of a mile away. I at once knew that they were making for the hole of water. How to escape their notice was the excitement of the moment. The cliffs on either side were too steep to afford an easy egress. To take the open prairie and attempt to lead them in a chase, would be play- ing into their hands, and it might be many miles before I could turn the corners upon them. To go forward and meet them was unthink- able. The excitement of my situation was fast assuming a frenzy attitude. I wheeled about and rode as far up through the descending declivity of shrubbery and craggy rock as my horse could go. I dismounted and tied the lasso to a bush, and scrambled some thirty or forty paces further up the cliff and squatted behind a friendly rock. I knew that the Indians had not yet seen me, and would not, unless they followed up the trail of my horse from the water hole, which I felt certain they would do. I knew that they could easily capture my horse, but for myself, they must scramble up a steep declivity. But while they would be attempting to do so, I knew that some of them would bleed and die. But to my great joy and surprise, they came to the water hole and refreshed themselves and horses and hastened away up the valley. I saw that they were driving a loose herd of ponies. I knew from this what was up. They had been down in the settlements after ponies and were making their way back. They knew, or expected, that they were pursued, and had no time to parley about one scalp. Otherwise they would have trailed me up and besieged me a week, or taken my hair and horse along. As soon as they disappeared, I scrambled down from my fort, mounted my horse and rode out to the open valley, and as the Indians came the way I was going, I retraced their trail. In about three hours I saw the dust rising in front. I first thought it was another herd of Indians, but while I was looking around for a point through which I could escape, a second thought said to me that the dust was more likely to be upstirred by white men in pursuit of the fugitives and their booty. Upon this reflection, I concluded to go forward and meet them. A column of about a dozen of white men soon TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 85 appeared, led by a big, led-bearded, brawny looking captain, who did the talking in a boisterous and abrupt manner. He approached me with the ferocity of a Bengal tiger and a roll of profanity, and wanted to know if I had seen the Indians. I replied affirmatively. He wanted to know why they left my hair behind them. I elucidated the concomitant circumstances in as concise and explicit a manner as time and opportunity afforded me. He looked at me with stern diffidence and very knowingly at his companions. I began to think about dangling at the end of a rope between blue sky and green grass. Finally, an older and more discreet man, who had been quietly listening and watching me, spoke and asked me if in my travels I had met either the son or son-in-law of an ancient king. I thought that I understood his reference, and answered him accord- ingly. After some further indirect interrogations, he said to his party that I was all right, and that he would vouch for me. At this happy turn in the critical state of affairs, respiration came more freely and less embarrassed. They made some further hasty inquiries about the number of Indians and the stock they had, and how to find the water hole, and with a free application of their Mexican persuaders, they hastened forward. I was almost in as hazardous a predicament with these white men as I would have been with the red men, for if they had had any plausible assurance that I held any connection with the Indian raid- ers, Mexican or Avhite bandits, they would have on the spot saspended me to the first limb of a tree. My correct and satisfactory answers to the veiled and mystic interrogatories made by the elderly gentle- man, was all that precluded the ligament between my head and shoulders from stretching. Some may claim that Providence had something to do with my deliverance. That may be true ; yet, with reverence, I am much inclined to the opinion that the ancient landmarks blazed out by King Solomon had much to do with my extrication. I was so solicitous about my neck, and was kept so busy answering questions, that I made no inquiry about my front ; and I followed up their trail until it turned eastward. I saw that it would lead me eastward obliquely from the Cado Peaks, my immediate point of destination. I desired to see tlie peaks, ascend them, and take an extensive and general view of the surrounding country. And as I was not by nature inclined or liable to swerve from a course once adopted, I left the trail, it being in a valley, and made for the most elevated point in sight for the purpose of getting the bearings by compass on the peaks, which was yet many miles away. 86 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. While upon this elevation there came a refreshing rain, that filled up the little cup-holes disseminated upon the surface, which was quite a treat to myself and horse, and there I bivouacked for the night. You remember that I started out in tlie morning without break- fast. The excitement produced by the thrilling incidents of the day so completely averted hunger, that I never once thought of the packed-up remains of my cub; but as all things were now quiet, and my appetite reinstated, I made cub and hard tack git further with a lively jawbone quickstep. It is glorious indeed to realize a few moments of tranquil retire- ment, after passing through an obstreperous commotion. None but those who have personally experienced the like can duly appreciate its inestimable felicity. The morning dawned clear and the sun shone brightly, and through my field-glass the Cado peaks appeared inside of an hour's ride ; but it was late next morning before I reached them. On my arrival, I rode around the basement of west Cado peak, and selected a point of ascension. I made several efforts before I succeeded in getting up ; but I finally did so on a projecting ledge at the northwest, and here I feasted and gloated my visional organs on dale and Alpine scenery. I could, by the aid of my glass, discriminate between the multifarious terraces ranging along the headwaters of the Clear fork of the Brazos, and far, far beyond, I could discern the range of hills and knobs sweeping along the Conchos. South I could see Santa Anna's Mount and many other less prominent knobs. On the north I could take in with one view the whole range of hills and knobs that I came through from Fort Griffin ; on the east, a long strip of the dividing ridge separating Eastland and Comanche from the western tier of counties. I descried a gap through these ridges, and, as I supposed it to be Cox's Gap in Comanche, I took the bear- ings by map and compass as a guide to lead me out of the wilderness. It seemed that I never would tire gazing around at this exquisitely beautiful and picturesque Alpine scenery ; but the departing rays of old Sol, as they receded through the crimson robes of the west- ern horizon, said I must go, and as I knew that his mandates were inexorable I reluctantly retraced my scrambling way to the humble valley below. There I reposed my wearied body, amid darkness and solitude, upon the green-sward, while my spirit soared aloft in ecstatic raptures over the giddy heights that encircled me on every side. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 87 By the time the gray dawn of morning began to spread its mystic light around me, I was in my saddle, wending my way eastward. This day's travel was far from a pleasant one, as I had no trail upon which to go, and very often had to penetrate thorny jungles and scramble over craggy precipices that would have put the agility of a •cat to want, to say nothing of a clumsy man and horse. On going down a narrow ravine, between Hog and Round Mountain, I rode up to a bunch of ponies. I saw that three of them were hoppled, and the others seemed gentle. I thought this indicated the proximity of people, and through friendly motives and a desire to see some civil body I halted and looked around at the ponies. The greeting was the inimical whistle of a gunshot from the craggy cliffs above. I could s'ee from whence the smoke came, but could see nobody. Presently another shot came. I saw the exact point of this shot. It was rather out of range of an ordinary gun, but to let them know that I, too, had a gun, I leveled it, untriggered in that direction, and rode leisurely away. After getting off some three hundred yards, I saw three men approaching the herd, with saddles and bridles in hand. I was not slow in comprehending this movement. Past experience had taught me that they were mountain bandits, and evidently in- tended to pursue and rob me. I at once galloped off briskly. In about a quarter, the valley made a sudden bend, and as I turned this, I looked back to see their movements. They were still fum- bling about the herd. After turning this bend, the valley obliqued westward, and as I wanted to go east, I rode out through a scrubby cedar brake, se- cluded myself and horse, and waited to see the movements of my anticipated pursuers. I was not long waiting before they came in full speed passing by, and went on westward down the valley. I at once turned and hastened through the brake, eastward. My horse, since his hazardous leap and miraculous escape in tum- bling over the embankment of the creek, seemed to be languishing very rapidly, and while I deeply sympathized with his misfortune and continued hardships, I furthermore knew that my safe transit back to civilization depended greatly upon his continuing to bear me up and onward. In view of this, I felt it my imperative duty to avoid, as far as possible, leading in a chase. I saw no more of my pursuers. During that evening I got a plain view of Cox's Gap, and taking its bearing by compass, I knew that 88 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. the moon would be in full glow through the night, and I decided to go through the Gap before I stopped to rest. This I did, and stopped a while before daylight and took a nap. In the morning I found my horse apparently very dull and stupid. I felt some apprehension about him, and as I was appro?.ching civili- zation, I hoped to soon be able to do something for him. I mounted and gave him the bridle to travel at will, but soon found that he was fagging. I dismounted and led him until about noon, when he com- menced lying down. As I wanted water, and thought ihat he did also, I urged him forward ; but he soon refused to go or even stand on his feet longer. I stripped him and tried to nurse him, but I was a poor doctor. I saw a clump of timber down at the foot of the hill that I thought indicated the proximity of water, and I went thither and found water dripping from a crevice in a rock. I held my canteen under the drip until filled, returned to my best and only friend to see him growing more weak and languid every hour. Night came on, but the moon shone brightly, and I watched my horse carefully until about 12 M., when he kicked and breathed his last. From the night that he made that dark and hazardous plunge over the embankment, he gradually languished until his death. I am satisfied that he received some internal injury that ended his life. After he died, I wrapped myself in my blanket and tried to sleep some, but slumber, like summer birds, had flown to more congenial climes. My situation, all things considered, approximated desperation. I was far out on a lonely frontier prairie. Horse dead, rations out, saddle to pack, and liable at any moment to be attacked and robbed by the purloining nomads of the mountain jungles, or devoured by carnivorous beasts of the forest. All this had anything but a soothing effect, and was the routine of my rambling thoughts through the night. The morning dawned clear and bright, but I was not in a mood of spirits to enjoy its cheerful greetings. My body was wearied and fatigued almost to exhaustion. My mind was in an abnormal state of intricacy, and as there was no other alternative, I saddled up my mamma's colt ; but, mustang like, he did not take to the saddle well. By noon I came to a ranche cabin, the remains of an old ranche that had been removed. I saw a man loitering about the place, and a more acceptable scene at that epoch could not have greeted my wearied longings. It laid all the resplendent scenery on the Cado Peaks coolly in the shade. On approaching this isolated cabin, I was met by a clever old TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 89 man named Thompson. He was entirely alone, with the exception of his wife, who, I think, was as generously disposed as himself. They were employed there to gather up a remnant of stock that was left by a ranchman who had moved away. I saw that his saddle was an old broken tree, denuded of all of its pristine rigging, and a happy thought whispered to me that I might sell him my saddle. I proposed a sale. The old fellow looked at it very wistfully and said he needed it very much, but had no money. I told him that I could not pack it any further, and if he could not pay for it I would have to leave it unpaid for. When the old lady saw that I was going to leave saddle, bridle and blanket, all comparatively new, which had cost me near thirty dol- lars, she toddled off to the house and brought two dollars and twenty- five cents, declaring that it was all the money they had. The old man I think was honest. He said that if he ever got the money and could see me he would pay me, or if he could send it to me that he would do so. The madam filled up my ration sack Avith smoked beef tongue, and nice buttermilk biscuits, and I bid them adieu. From this point I traveled on foot through Comanche and East- land Counties to Acton, in Hood County, thence down the Brazos river to Brazos Point, in Bosque county, and stopped for the summer with Rev. J. P. Grace. My ideas about glory achieved by adventure were somewhat modi- fied, and I would here very modestly suggest to my young reader that the greatest glory that he will ever realize from such reckless adventures, will be found in the perusal of the pen of a wayward prodigal. When you come to straining your muscles with its practi- cal tests, you will, like all your predecessors, find that all your hith- erto fancies are as fallacious and evanescent as a morning vapor. CHAPTER XVII. Tired ramblijig — Rest awhile with Rev. J . P. Grace — Items of interest on agriculture ifi Middle Texas — Devastation of drouth — Another rambling tour — Meet a jayhawking thief — He fol- lorvs me up for several days and robs me — Flints on precaution — Splendid prairies west of the Brazos —Facts and fancies worthy of consideration. IT is now summer of 1S74. and having, by hazardous adventure in frontier wilds, appeased to some extent my roving proclivities in search of that which the human heart never finds on earth, viz., all things in one associated combination suited to its liking, I have for the summer made my home with Rev. J. P. Grace, at Bra- zos Point, Bosque county, Texas, and a whiter man at heart I failed to find in the West. In all my social and business transactions with him, I found his integrity, veracity and generos'ty as complete as the human heart, in our imperfect state, generally attains. This point on the great Brazos is not, by a large percentage, equal to the famous agricultural lands imbedded in the broad bottoms bor- dering on this stream below Waco, and thenceward to the Gulf. In consequence of these gloomy surroundings, like the Rocky Moun- tain locust, I hopped off southward. My first day's ride took me to Kimball, a small villa on the Brazos. As I noticed my horse stepping tenderly over the rock, I called at a shop in Kimball and had him shod. While I was there a man came around and commenced questioning me about my horse, as though he wished to trade for him. His quick, penetrative eye, together with his general appearance, said tome that he was a regular frontier horse thief. He wanted to know which way I was going. I gave him an evasive answer, which I saw aroused in him a spirit of resent- ment. This, I perceived, from accustomed habit, he soon concealed, and urged forward his intrusive intimacy. While I was paying for my shop work, I noticed that his jayhawking eye watched my purse very closely. All these unbecoming points in his manner had a favorable tendency to confirm my hitherto diffidence towards him, and led me to the determination of ridding myself of his company. TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 91 I hitched my horse to a rack in front of the shop, and abruptly left him. I wished to make some little purchases around town, but, go where I would, his impudence would meet me at every corner. I asked a merchant if he knew him. "No," said he "the man is a stran^^er in the place, having come to town the day before." I felt satisfied that the man's object was to follow me to the plains and rob me. I knew that if I was correct in my surmises, and he did under- take the job, that he would accomplish his diabolical purpose or drown in blood in the attempt. But what was I to do ? Our repub- lican institutions guarantee protection to all men, so long as they deport themselves in accordance with our laws. And this man, so far, had not transgressed any prescribed statute. As I had no desire to sp:ll a man's blood, nor lose that of my own, I set about devising a plan to give him the dodge. But such an artifice on a frontier thief is about as easily accomplished as baffling the long, instinctive nose of an old fox hound. My horse I had left at the shop. My other accoutrements I had with me. I gave a boy two bits to go and get my horse, and ride him around under the hill back of town, where I met him and rode off west. My route lay eastward. I did this to deceive prying eyes. After getting well out of sight, I circled round to my proper route, and went for^vard hastily. At Fort Graham I halted for dinner, but, before I was there an hour, the pusillanimous pup rode up and hitched his horse, and scampered around. I was exceedingly provoked at this, and when ready, rode boldly out of this place, with my purpose firmly fixed, that if he still persisted in following me up, that I would assume the aggressive in self-defence, and shoot him down in advance. I rode on to Peard, a villa in Hill county, and put up at the hotel for the night. After supper I walked out on the streets, and about the first man that I met was my jay- hawker. I at once returned to my room, charged my navy six with fresh cartridges, adjusted my Arkansas toothpick, and nerved my resolutions to a sticking point for what I deemed a near catastrophe in the drama that I had been playing. I returntid to the streets, with the intention of accosting and demanding an explanation of his conduct. But I saw nothing more of him that night. In the morn- ing I was early on the streets, and my Jayhawker was the first to be seen. He tried to pass me incognito, but I had him about as well spotted as he had me. I pointed him out to one of the citizens, and disclosed my opinion of the man, asking his advice about having him arrested. He said I might do so, but unless I had proof sufficient to sustain the action, that it might result detrimental to me, for our 92 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. constitution and laws guaranteed to every man a legitimate right to go where and when he pleased, and so long as he conducted him- self in accordance with the prescribed statutes, that the executives of these statutes were bound by them to protect him against seizure or molestation. I also being a stranger in the place, concluded that under the circumstances I had no advantage of him in law, and that in the event that I was precipitated into a conflict with him, I would have to make the best of a bad bargain. As I returned to the hotel to breakfast, to my great delight I saw him mounted on his horse and riding off in an opposite direction from that which I intended going. I thought that perhaps after all my evil surmises and wrathful indignations, I might be in error, and truly have no grounds for sus- picion. After breakfast, I rode off for Hillsboro, with a lighter heart and in a more pleasant mood than I had been in for a day or two. After getting a few miles from town, while riding along beside a ravine densely fringed with shrubbery, unconcernedly having lost all vigilance, on a sudden, before I had time to think, or speak, my Jayhawk bounded out from the jungles to my side, poking a six- shooter in my face, with the words, "I will take that change now; you have been running from me long enough." I was so suddenly and unexpectedly placed in this awkward predicament, that I could not move a hand without being shot dead on the spot. I stammered out, " You must be joking." He replied, with the fierceness of a lion, "I mean business, and that right now!" and his ferocious countenance verified his remark to my full satisfaction. I forked over my purse; he told me to take the road, which injunction I for- mally complied with, he holding his navy six on me until I got off some thirty paces, when he put spurs to his horse and went bounding across the plain. I had long since learned the artifice of secret- ing about my person, in an unsuspected j^lace, all my money except travelling change. No doubt he would have searched me closely had he not deemed iuch an exploit too hazardous to undertake alone. Some of my readers may think that they would have acted dif- ferently, and not yielded to his demand so readily, but I will venture the assertion that two out of three, who so think, have never faced lead in close proximity in the hands of a professional desperado; and, alone as I then was, I had ceased to think of him, my mind was pleasantly roaming on topics more serene. I had ceased vigilance, feeling assured that my suspicions of him were erroneous, or that my tactics out-generaled him, and he ha^ retired from the field. He was TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. 93 by my side before I had time to think of anything. His plans were systematic and well matured. It was useless, even fatal, to attempt resistance. If there is a lesson to be learned from all this, it lies in the begin- ing and not the end. When I exposed my money at Kimball, where I paid the shop man for his work, here the blunder was made, for these prowling frontier bandits are ever on the alert for such un- guarded points, and from a clear experience, I would say to the emi- grant going to the Western frontier, that eternal vigilance and precau- tion is the price of safety. For while these bandits have their home in the mountain recesses, at intervals they roam the paths of civilization incognito, in search of prey; and they know that the emigrant is the least familiar with their tricks. Such audacious feats in highway robbery may, to some of my readers, seem preposterous. In the old States their perpetration would be extremely absurd, but on the Western frontier their occur- rence is of such frequency, that they are seldom noticed except by those personally interested. If you have been a scrutinizing observer of transpiring events, you must have hitherto seen accounts of some of these nomadic bandits. Notable among them was the intrepid Sam Bass and his co.nrades. Their rapacious temerity led them from bank to bank, from one railroad express to another, shedding blood and exploding and rifling safes, until, I think, it was in 1878, the majority of them, including the ringleader, Sam Bass, was killed in south Texas. Then again, you must have seen an account of Ham. White denominated the Lone Robber. This man was a resident, and, I think, a native of Bastrop county, in which I lived at the time he perpetrated his intrepid exploits. He was a young man, said to be under thirty years old, and maimed in one leg from some of his hitherto shooting scrapes. As well as I can now remember, he alone robbed three stages within the space of twenty-four hours. He was certainly a brave man, doing his work alone in open daylight; he was sent to the penitentiary. Then again, you must have read accounts of the notorious Billy Langly. He, too, while quite a young man, claimed the credit of murdering upwards of thirty men. From the conviction of his last murder, he made his exit from time to eternity at the end of a rope. Then again, you must have read accounts of the no less blood- thirsty John Wesley Hardin, who, for several years, was a perpetual thorn in the hearts of the good people of Comanche and surround- ing country. He escaped, after many audacious murders, to Florida, 94 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. where he was subsequently captured, taken back to Texas, rnd sent to the penitentiary. If I were to undertake to enumerate and write up the multiplicity of atrocious deeds perpetrated within my personal knowledge in the West during my rambles thitherward, within the last ten years, they alone would far exceed the contemplative limits of this book. Suffice then to say, should you undertake to traverse the labyrinths of the frontier, as I have done, let vigilance attend your every fcotstep. From this calamitous point in my rambles, I traveled by way of Hillsboro to Waco, thence in a circuitous, worm-like route through the counties lying between the Brazos and Colorado rivers, south and west from Waco. There are some splendid prairies bordering on the west side of the Brazos. A man with the requisite means to pur- chase and improve a farm, independent of credit, can do better no- where else in the State. But it is said that it takes money to make the mare go, and I have found that the apothegm is very appli- cable to all business transactions, especially in Texas. CHAPTER XVIII. My advance to the frontier 7vilds — Hoivling wolves at night — Sober reflections — Chased by a band of bandits — A running fight — One missing — / get away — Return South — Lonely rancho on the way — Hubbub betiveen Mexican and American — River blockaded — Hazardous escape across the river — My baggage robbed — Opinion of the thief — Sequel. THE belt of country lying between the Rio Grande and the great Western range of Rocky Mountains is but thinly popu- lated. After getting across the level country adjacent to the Rio Grande, I ran into those spurs of mountains protruding from the main range of Rocky Mountains northwest, and, in going around them, I struck a trail leading northward. As a survey of that country was my object in traversing it, I followed this trail for several days, until it led me to a lake of water. I made my way thus far unmo- lested, but at ni^ht it was the most hideously howling wilderness that ever greeted mortal ears. The coyotes, wolves and other diabolical varmints kept up a wrangling, shrieking chorus throughout the night. Even had they been mute as mice, their saucy impudence in coming up within a few paces of my camp, would have driven slumber far, far away. Having been told that this section was at times visited by prowl- ing Indians, and other rapacious bandits, I was afraid to build up a light, lest it might attract their attention, and bring down upon my lonely head a more omniverous enemy. I was also afraid to shoot the impudent pups, lest the report of my gun would attract attention. The moon was in full blaze, and when I was not overshadowed by loitering clouds that floated across the heavens, I could see plainly enough for self-defence. While in this lonely and benighted pre- dicament, I would often silently repeat to myself, '' O, wayward man, how long will you persist in such perverse and reckless temerity ?" After getting within the immediate vicinity of the lake to which point I was directing my way, I was riding carelessly along one even- ing just before sundown. I descried four horses grazing with saddles on. There was no brush near them, and as I could not see 96 TEN YEARS IN TEXAS. any person in the immediate vicinity, I, through timidity as well as precaution, halted for reflection and further manifestations rela- tive to the dubious circumstances. I remained some time in vigi- lance and wonderment, and as no one put in an appearance, I concluded that a retrograde movement might be more salutary than a forward one. With this impression I about faced, and changed front to the rear, and rode slowly away. I continued to keep a vigi- lant eye upon the horses. Before making more than a hundred yards, I saw the riders of the grazing horses rise up from the grass near by them. But they were too far away for me to tell definitely whether they were Mexicans or Indians. Their faces bore the aspect of the saffron hue, but their dress appeared too much civilized for Indians, and as I did not particularly desire a closer inspection, I started my horse off in a brisk gallop. I noticed that they simul- taneously did the same in direct pursuit of me. They chased me with all the energy they could command for more than a mile, when, as I supposed, they saw that my horse was too fleet for their ema- ciated ponies. They drew in, but continued pursuit in a moderate gallop. Nothing could please me better, as it was but playful sport for my American horse to lead them at leisure. My horse was of good size and speed. I rode no other sort on the frontier. For this is an indispensable requisite to your safety in a chase which is liable to take place at any time. As the sun was nearly down, my tactics were to lead them gently in the chase until darkness closed out the scene, and then, applying my persuaders, get away. As we sped over the plains, I perceived that their tactics were the same /.