d-I^i^ ibitionof^ .4^1 mm . 1^ % American Art Galleries 6 East 23B Street-N.Y ^ « Exhibition of Sewing UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE NEW YORK ASSOCIA- TION OF SEWING SCHOOLS AT THE AMERICAN ART GALLERIES MADISON SQUARE SOUTH AMERICAN ART ASSOCIATION, Managers NEW YORK 1897 EXECUTIVE BOARD. Mrs. Richard Irvin, President. Miss H. S. Sackett, Vice-President. Miss J. Patterson, Treasurer. Miss Bucklin, Recording Secretary. Miss Dean, Corresponding Secretary, 109 East i8th Street, Miss B. T. Marshall, Chairman of Literature Committee. Miss McCready, Chairman of Conunittce on Classes and Lectures. Miss Edith Bryce, Chairman Auditing Committee. Mrs. Joseph H. Craig. Miss E. J. Fowler. Miss Parsons. Mrs. Woolman. NEW YORK ASSOCIATION OF SEWING c^ SCHOOLS. -U In April, 1893, a Conference of Sewing School Workers was held in New York which demonstrated the need of a permanent organiza- tion to bring together the various agencies for teaching sewing. In consequence, the New York Association of Sewing Schools was formed in the autumn of 1893, which, according to the second article of its Constitution, was " to act as a centre of information for sewing schools and to formulate and carry out such plans and arrange for such meetings and classes as might be deemed advisable for the further development of the work." During the three and a half years of its existence the Association has fully carried out the spirit of a motion made at its organization that it be " non-sectarian, and should not represent any particular system of sewing." The rapid growth of the work clearly proves the great need of just such union and cooperation as is being accomplished. In the impulse that has come to manual training during the past few years there has been a new realization of the importance of sewing, so that in addition to the practical home and commercial value of needlework we are beginning to appreciate its great edu- cational value. It is the object of this Association to put within the reach of its members information concerning new theories and methods, and enable them to study these by means of conferences, exhibitions, and whatever other agencies may best serve the purpose. To aid the work done by volunteer workers, a Teachers' Class has been formed each year, which, in regard to price and the amount of time required, has placed instruction within the reach of all. To further increase the efficiency, especially of the non-professional schools, talks and lectures have been frequently given. Occasion- ally these have been under the auspices of the Association for all connected with it, and at other times, by special invitation, they have been given at various schools and institutions, both in and out of New York. EXHIBITION OF SEWING In May, 1895, an Exhibition of Sewing was held at the Hotel Waldorf, when there was a most interesting display, not only of work done in the schools of the Association, but also from some of the larger representative institutions of the United States, and specimens from the schools of France, Germany, Switzerland, Hol- land, Belgium, and England. Once more success outran expectation, and it was determined that in the spring of 1897 a larger and more complete exhibition should be held. Through the Department of State at Washington, the diplomatic and consular representatives of the United States in Europe were requested to invite the Governments to which they were accredited to participate in the Exhibition, and exhibits have been sent from thirty-one schools under the direction of the School Board of Lon- don ; from the Public Schools of Geneva and Zurich, Switzerland ; the Public Schools of Stockholm, Sweden ; the Professional Schools of Brussels and Ghent ; the Government Schools of Honolulu, Hawaii, and those of Japan. There will also be exhibits from various parts of the United States of work done in a large variety of schools. Necessarily, there is a wide difference in the intrinsic value of the work, but no one would think of comparing that done by the college- trained woman with that done by a child totally blind. Nevertheless, the value of the instruction may be as great in one case as in the other, and it is the aim of the Association to help every school con- nected with it, no matter under what conditions it works. With every new school added to its membership, the sphere of usefulness is enlarged, and the power of the Association to help its individual members is greatly increased. Any school or association that teaches sewing may become a member of this Association by the annual payment of one dollar. Schools Belonging to the Association. All Souls Mission, (All Souls — Unitarian), 248 East 34th Street, New York, Miss Edith Bryce. American Female Guardian Society, 29 East 29th Street, New York, Mrs. Frank S. Evans. - A AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. Armitage Sewing School, (Fifth Avenue Baptist Church), 343 West 47th Street, New York, Miss Rockefeller. Armour Institute, (Department of Domestic Art), Armour Avenue and 33d Street, Chicago, Illinois, Miss Henrietta Connor. Atlantic Avenue Chapel, Cor. Atlantic and Grand Avenues, Brooklyn, Miss Kate L. Williams. Bethany Memorial Chapel, (Madison x\ venue Reformed Church), First Avenue and 60th Street, New York, Mrs. H. F. Morse. Bethany Chapel, (Broadway Tabernacle), Tenth Avenue, bet. 35th and 36th Streets, New York, Miss E. Inslee. Bethlehem Chapel, (University Place Presbyterian Church), 196 Bleecker Street, New York, Mrs. Charles Symington. Brick Church Chapel, 228 West 35th Street, New York, Miss S. N. Hatfield. Brooklyn Training School and Home for Young Girls, Mrs. R. B. Taylor. Buffalo Association of Sewing Schools, Mrs. Willis K. Morgan. Chapel of Divine Providence, (Swedenborgian), 356 West 44th Street, New York, Mrs. George L. Kent. Children's Guild of the Society for Ethical Culture, 244 West 26th Street, New York, Mrs. J. Hirsch. EXHIBITION OF SEWING Christ Protestant Episcopal Church, Trenton, New Jersey, Mrs. L. T. Ford. Church of the Ascension, 12 West nth Street, New York, Miss McCready. Church of the Covenant, (Brick Church), 310 East 42d Street, New York, Miss Charlotte E. Keeler. Church of the Good Shepherd, (West Presbyterian Church), West 66th Street near Amsterdam Avenue, New York, Mrs. James A. Boorman. Church of the Holy Communion, 49 West 20th Street, New York, Miss Jessie Patterson. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Park Avenue and 74th Street, New York, Mrs. J. J. Thomas. Church of the Intercession, Grand Boulevard and 158th Street, New York, Mrs. T. Hugh Boorman. Church of the Reconciliation, (Church of the Incarnation), 246 East 31st Street, New York, Miss M. H. Trotter. Drexel Institute, (Department of Domestic Art), Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Mrs. Caroline A. M. Hall. Educational Alliance, (Young Women's Section), East Broadway and Jefferson Street, New York, Mrs. L. H. Noah. Emmanu-el Chapel, (University Place Presbyterian Church), 755 East 6th Street, New York, Miss Dean. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. Epiphany Mission, Washington, District of Columbia, Miss Frederica L. Rodgers. Evangelical Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity, 45 West 2ist Street, New York, Miss Louise G. Muller. First Reformed Episcopal Church, Madison Avenue and 55th Street, New York, Miss F. Sabine. French Evangelical Church, 126 West 1 6th Street, New York, Miss Lecleve. Grace Church Mission, 410 East 14th Street, New York, Miss Martha Potter. Grace Emanu-el Church, 212 East 1 1 6th Street, New York, Miss Martha Gelston. Grace Reformed Church, 54th Street and Seventh Avenue, New York, Miss L. Jost. Haviland Sewing Clubs, Rahway, New Jersey, Miss Lydia E. Haviland. Hebrew Technical School for Girls, 267 Henry Street, New York, Mrs. Louis. Huntington Sewing School, Huntington, L. I., New York, / Miss Emma Paulding. Jewish Training School, Cleveland, Ohio, Dr. S. Wolfenstein. EXHIBITION OF SEWING /Jewish Training School, loi West 1 2th Place, Chicago, Illinois, Mr. G. Bamberger. Madison Avenue M. E. Church, 6oth Street and Madison Avenue, New York, Mrs. Charles Cohn. Manhattan East Side Mission, 416 East 26th Street, New York, Mrs. William T. Blodgett. Middle Collegiate Dutch Church, 50 East 7th Street, New York, Miss Mary W. Knox. Mount Morris Industrial School, (Mount Morris Baptist Church), 217 East 123d Street, New York, Miss L. M. Clinch. ] Normal College, Park Avenue, cor. 68th Street, New York, Miss Earl. New York Colored Mission, 135 West 30th Street, New York, Mrs. Charles W. Lawrence. New York Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor, (Vacation Schools), Dr. William H. Tolman. New York State School for the Blind, Batavia, New York, Mrs. Gardner Fuller. Orphan Asylum Society in the City of New York, Riverside Drive and 73d Street, New York, Mrs. R. G. Dun. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. Pilgrim Churcli, Madison Avenue and 121st Street, New York, Mrs. John S. Augur. Pratt Institute, (Department of Domestic Art), Brooklyn, New York, Miss Harriett S. Sackett. Pro-Cathedral Chapel, 130 Stanton Street, New York, Mrs. Richard Irvin. Public Schools of Baltimore, Maryland, Miss Laura V. Davis, Supervisor of Sewing. Public Schools of Irvington, New York, Miss Hooper. Public Schools of Montclair, New Jersey, Mr. Randall Spaulding, Superintendent of Schools. Public Schools of New Haven, Connecticut, Miss Jennie Messer, Supervisor of Sewing. Public Schools of New York City, Mrs. A. L. Jessup, Supervisor of Sewing. Public Schools of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Miss A. L. Kirby. Public Schools of Utica, New York, Miss Atlanta W. Cramer, Supervisor of Sewing. Public Schools of Washington, District of Columbia, Mrs, Margaret W. Cate, Supervisor of Sewing for the first 8 Divisions. EXHIBITION OF SEWING \j Public Schools of Washington, District of Columbia, Miss Carrie E. Syphax, Supervisor of Sewing for the 9th, loth and nth Divisions. Rhinelander School, (Children's Aid Society), 350 East 88th Street, New York, Miss Pascal, Riverside Association, 259 West 69th Street, New York, Miss Emma J. Eowler. Rochester Athenaeum and Mechanics' Institute, (Department of Domestic Science), Miss Mary I. Bliss. Rogers Chapel, (South Church), 204 West 1 8th Street, New York, Miss Edith Roundey. Roselle Sewing School, Roselle, New Jersey, Miss V. M, White. School of Domestic Science, 52 Berkeley Street, Boston, Massachusetts, Miss Alice A. Cutting. Sewing School Society of the City Park Branch, (West Presby- terian Church), 209 Concord Street, Brooklyn, Mrs. W. Hastings. St. Andrew's Church, Fifth Avenue and 127th Street, New York, Miss Mary A. Jacot. St. Andrew's Sewing School, Bergen Hall, Jersey City, Mrs. Brice Collard. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. St. Andrew's Church, Richmond, Virginia, Miss Grace E. Arents. St. Banholomew's Mission, 109 East 42d Street, New York, Mrs. JosejDh H. Craig. St. George's Church, Stuyvesant Square, New York, Miss Blandina Tappen Marshall. St. George's Church, Gates and Marcy Avenues, Brooklyn, Mrs. Beattie. St. James's Church, Madison Avenue and 71st Street, New York, Mrs. C. C. Brinckerhoff. St. Michael's Ch.urch, 225 West 99th Street, New York, Miss Lucretia Averill. St. Paul's Chapel Parish School, Vesey and Church Streets, New York, Miss N. A. Black. St. Thomas's Mission House, 229 East 59th Street, New York, Mrs. H. S. Almy. Stonover Sewing School, Lenox, Massachusetts, Miss Parsons. South Side Domestic Economy School, 2004}^ South Broadway, St. Louis, Missouri, Mis'; Ellen Fisher. EXHIBITION OF SEWING Teachers College, (Department of Domestic Art), i2oth Street and Morningside Heights, New York, Mrs. Woolman. Temple Emanu-El Sewing School, 22 1 East 79th Street, New York, Miss Bella Kayton. Tome Institute, (Department of Domestic Art), Port Deposit, Maryland, Miss Charlotte J. Short. Trinity Chapel, 15 \^'est 25th Street, New York, Miss Ellen W. Nazro. Twenty-first Ward Mission and Industrial School, 305 East 41st Street, New York, Miss Nell Comstock Carpenter. Vermilye Chapel, (4Sth Street Collegiate Chuich), 794 Tenth Avenue, New York, Miss Sophie J. Briggs. West Side Day Nursery and Industrial School, 266 West 40th Street, New York, Miss Elizabeth Almy Slade. Willow Place Mission, (Church of the Saviour — Unitarian), Brooklyn, New York, Mrs. E. E. Loml:>ard. Winthrop Normal and Industrial College, Rock Hill, South Carolina, Miss Lucy Dallett. Women's Educational and Industrial Union, Rochester, New York, Mrs. F. W. Little. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 13 Workingmen's School of the Society for Ethical Culture, 109 West 54th Street, New York, Miss Marie R. Perrin. Young Women's Christian Association, (Educational Department), 7 East 15th Street, New York, Miss Ballard, Chairman Educational Department. Miss Hopkins, Chairman Needlework Classes. Young Women's Christian Association, (Needlework Department), Schermerhorn Street and Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn, Miss Laura A. Smith. GALLERY A. EXHIBITS FROM PUBLIC SCHOOLS. GALLERIES B, C, D, AND ROUND ROOM. EXHIBITS FROM CHURCH, TRAINING, TECHNICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS SCHOOLS. GALLERY E. EXHIBITS FROM FOREIGN AND MISCELLANEOUS SCHOOLS.* * Will be found in Gallery E : Associated Artists. Colonial Dames of America, New Yorlc Chapter. Colonial Dames of America, Baltimore Chapter. National Society of Colonial Dames of New York. National Society of Colonial Dames of Baltimore. Society of Decorative Art. No. 3 No. 12 No. 13 No. 14 No. 15 No. 49 CATALOGUE. I ANNANDALE SCHOOL FOR NEEDLEWORK. ARMITAGE SEWING SCHOOL, 343 West 47th Street, New York City, Two Divisions ; each meets once a week from October ist to May ist. Number of scholars, 240 ; average attendance, 115. Ages, 5 to 14 years. Number of teachers, 28 ; average attendance, 22. Only seven children are allowed in each class. These remain in charge of the same teacher. This system may involve several stitches being taught at one time, but it draws teacher and scholar closer together, gives the teacher greater influence, and enables her to benefit the child in many ways other than teaching her to sew. 3 ASSOCIATED ARTISTS, 115 East 23d Street, New York City. Tapestry showing possibilities of needle processes. 4 ATLANTIC AVENUE SEWING SCHOOL, Atlantic and Grand Avenues, Brooklyn. Meets Saturday mornings from the first Saturday in November to the first Saturday in May. Number of scholars, 141; average attend- ance, 85. Ages, 5 to 15 years. i8 EXHIBITION OF SEWING 5 BRICK CHURCH SEWING SCHOOL, 228 West 35th Street, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings from November to the third week in April. Number of scholars, 230 ; ages, 4 to 15 years. Volunteer and three trained teachers. The present system of teaching has been in use three terms. It is divided into a primary and four other courses. It is expected that an average pupil will finish the Primary, and Courses I and II in three terms, and Courses III and IV in a fourth term. The school is supported by an appropriation from the Brick Church and volun- tary contributions. BROOKLYN INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL ASSOCIATION, 215 Concord Street, Brooklyn. The Brooklyn Industrial School Association is supported and maintained by the "Home for Destitute Children," There are six schools, all located in the poorest sections of the city. The Asso- ciation's object is to support Industrial Schools and take care of those children who are too poor to enter Public Schools. Dinner is provided, and once a year each child is provided with a suit of clothing. One afternoon of each week is devoted to sewing. The Pratt system is taught. Each school is under the control of a Com- mittee of Managers, subject to the rules of the Board of Education of the City of Brooklyn. 6 School No, i. Meets once a week from September i6th to June 30th, Num- ber of scholars in sewing classes, about 17 ; ages, 6 to 12 years. 7 School No. 4. Sewing Class meets Monday afternoons from the first Tuesday in September after Labor Day until the latter part of June. Num- ber of scholars, 13 ; ages, 8 to 13 years. The scholars are taught to make gingham dresses and to keep their own clothing in repair. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 19 BUFFALO ASSOCIATION OF SEWING SCHOOLS. Represents 14 Industrial or Sewing Schools, which meet once a week from November to May. Number of scholars, 743 ; ages, 6 to 15 years. Number of teachers, 125. The present system of teaching was introduced January, 1896, except in St. Paul's and Westminster Schools. CHILDREN'S GUILD, SOCIETY FOR ETHICAL CUL- TURE, 244 West 26th Street, New York City. One session a week for each class. The classes meet on Thurs- day and Friday at 3:30 p.m. School term begins on September 15th. A summer term begins after the close of the public schools. Number of scholars, 122 ; average attendance, 65. The School has been in existence only two years, which will explain the meagreness of the exhibit. CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION SEWING SCHOOL, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings, 10:30 to 12 o'clock, from November ist to May ist, inclusive, in Parish House, 12 West nth Street. Number of scholars, 114 ; average attendance, 41 ; ages, 6 to 14 years ; boys and girls admitted. Number of teachers, 10 ; average attendance, 9 ; all volunteers. Every child pays one cent every time it attends the School, and the money thus obtained buys all the material used. EXHIBITION OF SEWING CHURCH OF THE HOLY COMMUNION INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, 49 West 2oth Street, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings, lo to 12 o'clock, from November ist to May ist, inclusive. Number of scholars, 382 ; average attendance, 301 ; ages (1897), 6 to 18 years. Number of teachers, 43 ; professionals and volunteers. Primary, Intermediate, and Advanced Departments. Drills and Kindergarten Songs. Three Courses in plain sewing (a fourth Course is soon to be added). Household embroidery. The children are encouraged to deposit in the Penny Provident Fund. A short opening service is held each Saturday by the Clergy. During Lent that service is held in church, and a short address is given. [See Advertisement, page .xi.] 12 COLONIAL DAMES OF AMERICA. New York Chapter. 13 COLONIAL DAMES OF AMERICA. Baltimore Chapter. 14 NATIONAL SOCIETY OF COLONIAL DAMES. New York. 15 NATIONAL SOCIETY OF COLONIAL DAMES. Baltimore. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. i6 NEW YORK COLORED MISSION SEWING SCHOOL, 135 West 30th Street, New York City. Sixteen sessions, January to May. Number of scholars, 84 ; average attendance, 65 ; ages, 5 to 15 years. 17 EMMANUEL CHAPEL INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, 735 East 6th Street, New York City. (University Place Presbyterian Church.) Meets Saturday mornings, to to 12 o'clock, from November ist to May I St. Number of scholars, 270 ; average attendance, 211; ages, 6 to 15 years. Number of teachers, 17 ; average attendance, 15. No pro- fessional teachers. 18 EMANU-EL SISTERHOOD INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL. Meets five times a week from September to August. Number of scholars in Up-town Branch. 108 ; West Side, 65 ; ages, 7 to 13 years: 19 EVANGELICAL LUTHERAN CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY, 45 West 2 1 St Street, New York City. Meets once a week from November 27th to April 24th. Ages of scholars in the Intermediate Department, 5 to 14 years ; Dressmaking Class, 17 to 24 years. 20 HAMPTON NORMAL INSTITUTE, Hampton, Virginia. HAVILAND SEWING CLUBS, Rahway, New Jersey. Each class meets once a week from October to June. Number of scholars, 38 ; ages, 8 to 25 years. EXHIBITION OF SEWING "HEBREW TECHNICAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS," 267 Henry Street, New York City. The pupils in the sewing classes range from 14 to 17. School term began October 5th, ends June 30th. Sewing classes are held five times a week. Two machine classes; three hand-sewing classes. There are 31 girls in the hand-sewing; 23 in the advanced class; these receive but one lesson a week. Eight are in the introductory class, and receive two lessons a week. There are two machine-sewing classes; one session a week each. Taught by a graduate of " Teach- ers College," except the introductory, which is at present in charge of a pupil in the Hebrew Technical School for Girls. There are three classes in millinery. Each class receives one lesson a week. There are three classes in dressmaking. The two advanced classes receive each two lessons a week, and two introductory classes receive each one lesson a week. Drawing classes are held twice a week, in connection with dress- making and millinery. The " Hebrew Technical School for Girls," a development of the " Louis Down-town Sabbath School," founded December, 1880, was opened March, 1887, with 12 pupils. It has now a register of 95. There are two courses: a "Commercial Course," comprising stenog- raphy, typewriting and bookkeeping, from which the pupils graduate in one year, and a " Manual Training Course," comprising dress- making, hand and machine sewing, embroidery, millinery, drawing, engraving, cooking and progressive housework, from which the pupils graduate after a two years' course. Everything is //ri?, except 5 cents a lesson for stenography from those only who can afford it. The instructors are graduates of Pratt, Drexel and Cooper Institutes and Teachers College and New York Cooking School. 23 HOME INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, Asheville, North Carolina. Number of scholars, 1 15. Sewing divided into five Courses, of one year each. First vear — Making simple sewing book models and doll's clothes. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 23 Second year — Practical sewing. Third year — Practical sewing. Fourth year — Practical sewing, making part of model sewing book. Fifth year — Practical sewing, complete model sewing book. The Home Industrial School is one of three schools in the mountain district of North Carolina. It is under the charge of the Board of Home Missions of the Presbyterian Church of the U. S. A. The other schools are the Normal and Collegiate Institute and the Farm School. These are all boarding-schools, and designed espe- cially for the education of the children of the white population in that neighborhood. The sewing is under the special direction of a grad- uate of the Teachers College in Nev/ York. 24 INDIANS. Laces made by the women in Miss Sybil Carter's schools for North American Indians. 25 MADISON AVENUE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH SEWING SCHOOL, Madison Avenue and 60th Street, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings, 10 to 12 o'clock, from November ist to April 17th. Number of scholars, 100 ; average attendance, 88 ; ages, 6 to 13 years. The system is the same as that taught at Pratt Institute. 26 MOUNT MORRIS BAPTIST INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, 217 East 123d Street, New York City. Meets Saturday afternoons, 2 to 4 o'clock, from the first Satur- day in October to the last Saturday in April. Number of scholars, 203 ; average attendance, 174 ; ages, 5 to 15 years ; boys and girls admitted. 24 EXHIBITION OF SEWING 27 NEW YORK STATE SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND, Batavia, New York, Meets five times a week from the middle of September to tlie middle of June. Number of scholars, 40. The exhibit of the New York State School for the Blind, located at Batavia, is the work of beginners. While machine sewing, bast- ing, and overcasting have been taught for many years, hand sewing has not been systematically taught previous to September 19, 1896. This School was established and is maintained by the State for the purpose of educating those of school age whose vision is so defect- ive as to deprive them of the privileges of our common schools. Pupils are received from all the counties of the State excepting New York, Kings, Queens, Suffolk, Richmond, Westchester, Putnam, and Rockland. It was at first quite difficult to interest the girls, but they have now grown very enthusiastic over the idea of sending their work to the exhibition in New York. [See Advertisement, page iv.] 28 ORPHAN ASYLUM SOCIETY OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, Manhattan Avenue. Meets once a week. Number of scholars, 80 ; ages, 6 to 14 years. 29 PILGRIM CHURCH INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, Madison Avenue, corner 121st Street, New York City. Meets Saturday afternoons, 2 to 4 o'clock, from the middle of October to the end of April. Number of scholars (1896), 684 ; average attendance, 217 ; ages, 4 to 16 years. Three departments — Kindergarten for boys and girls under 8 years ; Sewing Department for boys and girls ; Cane-seating Class for boys only. Income derived from sale of children's work, children's collection every Saturday, and gifts from friends. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 3° PRATT INSTITUTE, Brooklyn, New York. Founded by Charles Pratt. Departments of High School, Fine Arts, Domestic Art, Domestic Science, Science and Technology, Kindergartens, Libraries, and Museums. This exhibit has, naturally, to do only with the Department of Domestic Art, which has 960 day students, 158 evening students, 22 instructors, and 10 assistants. 1. N'onnal Course of Domestic Art. Courses of Sewing, Millinery and Dressmaking are here represented. The exhibit of the Normal Class here shown, represents the progressive work of the two years' course in three of the studies of the department, the Sewing, Dress- making and Millinery. This course prepares the student to teach or supervise these branches. The normal training which the pupils receive in the studies of Psychology, Pedagogy and Normal Methods, together with the Practice Teaching and the other work necessary to their Normal training, sends them out into the field of teaching well equipped for their work. 2. Pratt High School Course in Sewing, Dressmaking and Mil- linery, under the direction of the Department of Domestic Art. Freshman Year. — Sewing, 3 terms of three months each ; 5 periods a week, fifty minutes each. The different stitches used in hand-sewing are taught and applied. Mending and darning taught, talks on the general care of the clothes ; machine stitching, draught- ing, cutting, fitting, and making garments in which both hand and machine work are used. A white skirt made with tucks, ruffle, and yoke or band. Sophomore Year. — Dressmaking, 2 terms, three months each ; 6 periods a week, fifty minutes each. Students are taught to take measurements of the figure and draught skirts and waists. They then make for themselves a dress of cotton fabric, and a lined dress skirt of woollen or silk material. Junior Year. — Millinery, 2 terms of three months ; 6 periods a week, fifty minutes each. A short course in the making and trim- ming of hats is given to develop that lightness of touch and skilful handling which the delicate materials demand. The imagination must be trained to picture the desired result so clearly, and the hand to execute so unerringly, that no unnecessary handling of material 26 EXHIBITION OF SEWING need be used. Here, the laws of form, proportion, and color must be observed. Senior Year. — Dressmaking, 2 terms of three months each ; 6 periods a week, fifty minutes each. This course is given for instruc- tion in the more advanced draughting. The additional study of beautiful form, color, and texture, in relation to the clothing of the body, and some knowledge of the intimate connection between the laws of beauty and the laws of health is introduced. Each pupil designs and makes for herself a lined and boned waist of woollen or silk material, a thorough preparation for this final project having been gained by the previous training in sewing, dressmaking, millinery, instrumental and free-hand drawing, and elementary design and water-color sketching. During a portion of the Sopho- more and Junior years, part of the course in drawing consists of free-hand drawing and water-color sketches of costumes as a prep- aration for designing the hats and dresses made in millinery and dressmaking. 3. Regular Courses of Sewing. — ist, 2d, 3d and 4th grades. 12 months, four hours a week. The work exhibited embraces classes in four grades, each class receiving two lessons a week of two hours in length. First Grade. — Small exercises, using stitches employed in hand- sewing, and note-books. Second Grade.— Draughts of undergarments from measure, ma- chine exercises on small models, cutting and making undergarments. Third Grade. — Dressing sacques and shirt waists from patterns ; dresses of washable materials draughted, cut and made by students. Fourth Grade. — Night dresses and baby dresses draughted from measurement ; baby dresses made by hand. Children's dresses made from pattern. Samples of lace and embroidery joining. 4. Childrens Course in Sewing. — Two years, two hours a week. The children in these classes are from the ages of 6 to 15 years. The course is divided into six grades, the first four embracing the same exercises, with a few exceptions, as the first grade of the regu- lar course. Useful articles are introduced at the close of each grade, which show the child how the various exercises are applied. The fifth and sixth grades include draughting, cutting and making of small garments. Throughout the course the instructor explains to each class the manufacture of needles, thimbles, thread, emery and buttons, and exhibits each m the different stages of manufacture, from the raw AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 27 material to the finished article. In all classes the note-books are carefully written up by the pupil, and corrected from time to time by the teacher. The work of the regular and special classes in dressmakina: and millinery is not shown for want of space, but may be fairly judged by the dressmaking and millinery of the Normal Class. 5. Drawing and Color taught in connection with Dressmaking and Millinery three hours each week. This course has been found most helpful to the student in training the eye and cultivating the taste to appreciate good proportion, and harmony and contrast. The course begins with the free-hand drawing from vase forms and bas-reliefs. The millmery students then take up the drawing of hats, untrimmed and trimmed, and finally sketch them in water color, working either from the models themselves, or originating their own designs. The dressmaking students take up the study of drapery after learn- ing the fundamental principles in the vase form, etc., and finally sketch gowns, both in pencil and water color. Art Needlework.— '^^^ViX-^x course, five half days each week. The course aims to promote artistic feeling for color, texture, and form in decoration, and every possible means is used to develop good taste in the student by surrounding her with the best in this line of art. The first year is devoted to stitcher}', taught on samplers ; the knowledge thus obtained being then applied to articles worked in color for home decoration. A parallel course in design is a part of this year's study. In the first term the education of the arm and the sense of proportion are cultivated by a study of curved lines. The second and third terms are devoted to the study of plant life. Sketches are made in pencil and water color, and the forms obtained applied to conventional design. The second year is devoted to the study of church symbolism and that form of work best adapted to the decoration of large sur- faces. Three sessions each week are devoted to embroidery ; two to design. Afternoon Class. — Two sessions a week. This class is so arranged that different branches of the work may be taken up as desired. Design is not included in this course. Saturday Morning Class. — This class for school girls aims to lay the foundation for artistic work in home decoration. The work is individual, and the kind of work taken up is left to the instructor in charge. [See Advertisement, page viii.] 28 EXHIBITION OF SEWING 31 PRO-CATHEDRAL CHAPEL SEWING SCHOOL, 130 Stanton Street, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings, 10:30 to 12 o'clock, from the first Saturday in November to the last Saturday in March. Number of scholars, 218 ; average attendance, 190 ; ages, 4 to 15 years. 32 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF BUFFALO, NEW YORK. Belong to the Buffalo Association of Sewing Schools, and repre- sent 2,700 scholars in sewing classes in 44 schools. The sewing is taught in the fifth and sixth grades only, and was introduced February, 1896. 33 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF IRVINGTON, Irvington, New York. Sewing lesson of forty minutes once a week from September to June, inclusive. Average number of scholars in each class, 40 ; ages, 5 to 13 years. The sewing has been but recently put into the schools in Irvington. The models sent to the Exhibition represent the average sewing, with perhaps three exceptions of models taken from the best work. 34 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF NEW HAVEN. Primary Grades. Sewing lesson of thirty minutes twice a month from September to June. Average age of scholars, 7 years. The work in the lower grades is an experiment this year. A course in cutting and cardboard work, to give elementary training in the use of the scissors and needle, is being tried. Such a course will serve as an excellent preliminary training to later work in sewing. Care is taken to adajn the material to the size of the child's hands and to his power of apprehension. That defini::e attention should be given to beauty in all of this work is very important. It is believed AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 29 that the beautiful forms and borders given in the drawing can be applied in these lessons. Cardboard is changed to canvas as soon as the child has gained a fair command of the needle. 35 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF NEW HAVEN. Litermediate Grade. Sewing lesson of one hour once a week during the regular school year. Number of scholars, nearly 28,000 ; ages, 8 to 14 years. Sewing has been taught in New Haven Public Schools for nearly ten years. Great advancement has been made during this time. Opposition has been met and conquered, until now both parents and teachers recognize its true value as an educational factor. The exhibit is arranged in steps, beginning with basting. The materials for the regular lesson work are furnished by the city, the pupils bringing garments from home for practice work. In this way they are taught to apply the stitches learned to practical purposes. Dolls' garments are cut and made, applying all the principles used in mak- ing the larger articles. The time from Thanksgiving to Christmas has been given to fancy work, which is found to be a pleasing and beneficial change. BOARDMAN MANUAL TRAINING HIGH SCHOOL, New Haven. The work on exhibition represents three classes in the school, Freshman, Junior and Senior. The ages of the girls ranging from 13 to 18 years. The school year begins about the first of September and ends the last of June ; and during that time two hours each week are devoted to this department of manual work. The pupils in the freshmen year, having been taught to sew in the grades, begin with the draughting, cutting and making of undergarments. They are taught the use of different sewing machines, also the growth and manufacture of the materials they work on. In the junior year dressmaking is taught for two hours each week. The pupils take measurements of each other and learn to draught and fit skirts and waists, using the Flesher system of dress cutting. Each one then 30 EXHIBITION OF SEWING makes for herself a simple cotton dress, and applies, as far as possible, the knowledge already gained. The course in millinery extends through the first half of the senior year, or twenty weeks, with two hours each week. The pupils practise upon straw and felt hats with cotton flannel, cambric and cheese cloth in place of velvet, ribbon and crepe-de-chine. They are taught the fundamental principles of millinery and the trimming of simple hats. During the last half of the senior year the girls make their own graduation dresses. 37 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF NEW YORK CITY. Grammar School, 41. Greenwich Avenue. Primary Department, 41. Greenwich Avenue. Grammar School, 71. East 7th Street. Primary Department, 71. East 7th Street. Grammar School, 77. East 86th Street. Primary Department, 77. East 86th Street. Grammar School, 13. East Houston Street. Primary Department, 13. East Houston Street. Grammar School, 50. East 20th Street. Primary Department, 50, East 20th Street. Grammar School, 47. East 12th Street. Primary Department, 47. East 12th Street. Grammar School, 43. West 129th Street. Primary Department, 43. West 1 29th Street. Grammar School, 5. Edgecombe Avenue. Primary Department, 5. Edgecombe Avenue. Grammar School, 85. East 138th Street. Primary Department, 85. E>ast i3Sth Street. Grammar School, 9.* West End Avenue. Primary Department, o.* West End Avenue. Grammar School, 23. Mulberry Street. Primary Department, 2-^. Mulberry Street. Grammar School, 103.* 119th Street and Madison Avenue. Primary Department, 103.* 119th Street and Madison Avenue. Grammar School, 1, Vandewater Street. Primary Department, i. Vandewater Street. * The sewing has only been recently introduced in these schools. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 31 Primary Departments. Primary Department No. 40. East 23d Street, No. 79. East ist Street. No. 89. Lenox Avenue. No. 16. West 13th Street. No. 15. East 5th Street. The sewing is taught only in the Primary Department of these schools, as the Grammar Department is for boys. Primary Schools. No. 2. City Hall Place. No. 4. East 1 6th Street. No. 8. Mott Street. No. 12. Roosevelt Street. No. 14. Oliver Street. No. 13. Downing Street. No. 25. Wooster Street. No. 29. East 19th Street. No. 31. East 2d Street. No. 34. Pearl Street. No. 5. East 4th Street. No. 24. Horatio Street. No. 19. West 135th Street. Designs made and worked by the children. Specimens of blackboard lessons by the teachers. All the work is taught from blackboard illustrations. Model books made by the teachers. As a branch of manual training, sewing has been taught in some of the Public Schools of New York for about eight years. The instruction begins in the Third Primary Grade and continues for four years. The course consists of basting, outlining designs, running, back- stitching, overcasting, felling, gathering, buttonholes, sewing on buttons, patching, weaving, stocking darning, dress darning, night- dress opening, sleeve opening, piecing bias facings, tucking, Ken- sington stitch, catch-stitch, feather-stitch, hemstitch, draughting and making child's waist, small model drawers, gored skirt and shirt waist. 32 EXHIBITION OF SEWING Extra, or busy work, is given to pupils who have satisfactorily finished the models of their grade. This enables the child to com- bine designing and sewing, make a finished article, and is an incen- tive to renewed effort on the part of the other children. The pupils vary in age from 7 to 14. The lessons are given by special teachers, one hour a week. Classes average 50 children. Evening Schools. No. 17. West 47th Street. 1 . Work of preparatory class. 2. Draughting and dressmaking. No. 59. East 57th Street. Work of preparatory class. Draughting and dressmaking. I. 2. The work in the Evening Schools aims to be a practical course in simple stitches and seams, buttonholes, making undergarments, mending, draughting to measure, and making dresses. 38 and 39 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF PHILADELPHIA. All the sewing sent by Philadelphia is the work of the pupils of the Public Schools, There is no charge for the instruction. The city provides the tools and materials necessary for teaching all the various seams and stitches used in making garments, but the pupils furnish the cotton or woollen cloth of which the garments are made, and these garments are their property. Day Schools. The work of the day schools is in the care of the Superintendent of Schools, Dr. Edward Brooks. Sewing begins in the third school year. During the third and fourth years the pupils receive instruction in sewing for one hour and a half each week of the school term. During the next four years they receive one hour's instruction each week. They are taught by 46 special teachers appointed for teaching sewing. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 33 The children are taught to draught patterns for all the garments that they wear. The materials for this purpose are supplied by the Board of Education. The ages of the pupils in the Elementary Schools vary greatly. I'he majority commence sewing at 8 or 9 years of age, and they enter the High School at 14 or 15. The term (year) lasts from the middle of September until the end of May. During the third and fourth school years pupils receive two les- sons (three-fourths of an hour each) per week. In grammar schools they receive one lesson, of fifty minutes, per week. The number of pupils in the sewing classes varies : from 35 to 60 pupils are often taught together. The classes will average 45 pupils each. There is no " Superintendent of Sewing " in Philadelphia. Dr. Brooks has placed this branch of the school work under the care of one of his assistants. Miss L. A. Kirby. The "Course of Study" used is prescribed by the Superinten- dent, Dr. Edward Brooks. There are about 35,000 children in the Elementary Schools who receive instruction in sewing ; 652 in the High School, and about 350 in the Normal School. HIGH SCHOOL, Sewing is taught during the first year only. The pupils receive one lesson (fifty-five minutes) per week during the school year. They are required to do sewing at home for two hours per week. The work is in charge of Mrs. Sophia Moffett. The classes average 40 pupils each. NORMAL SCHOOL. The pupils in the Normal School are taught how to teach sewing. They do not make garments, hence none appear in this catalogue. Their work is shown in several books which will be found in the ex- hibit. These contain illustrations of the various lessons taught and directions for giving the lessons to pupils. The pupils of the Normal School give lessons in sewing to the 3 34 EXHIBITION OF SEWING children of the School of Practice, which is connected with the Normal School. The work is in the care of Miss Fannie Patton. The classes average 40 pupils each. 39 Night Sc?iools. Four years ago the first public Night Sewing School was estab- lished in Philadelphia by Mr. Alexander Adaire, Chairman of the Night School Committee of the Board of Education. A school in the centre of the milling district was selected for this purpose, and Mrs. Emma Epley, the present principal of the Henry Armitt Brown Night Sewing School, was given charge of this new venture. In the second week in October, 1893, the school opened and sessions were held three evenings each week, these sessions continu- ing until the last of February. The school opened with 18 pupils. Before the week closed 150 were enrolled. When the term ended in February, 600 women and girls were in attendance. The work has grown so much in favor that at the present time 16 night sewing schools are scattered throughout the city, with over 5,000 pupils receiving instructions, from the second week in October to the close of February. The age of those in attendance ranges from 12 to 50 years. The three branches taught in the schools ^xo. plain sewing, inilli- fiery, dressmaking. The course in plain sewing consists of darning, patching, and making of domestic garments. As many of the pupils know but little of sewing, instructions are given in the use of the needle and thimble. In the millinery classes the pupils are first taught on canton flannel. This course consists of wiring, covering, lining, making of folds, trimming. When sufficient skill has been acquired, the learners are then promoted to the making of velvet, lace, tulle, and braided hats. The renovating of velvets and laces is also taught in this department. In the dressmaking course the same method is pursued. The pupils are required to draught and make simple garments, beginning with a child's waist, and gradually progressing to the making of a woman's well-fitting gown. We encourage the making over of old AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 35 dresses. In this department, too, we aim to give instruction m color, form, design, in finishing and draping, and to train the judgment and taste in the selection of suitable material. This is done by the actual handling of goods. The good results of our work in the schools is seen in the fact that many of our former pupils have left the mills and established themselves as dressmakers and milliners in their own districts. 1"he exhibit that we send is from the various night schools throughout the city and is representative of the work done during the winter sessions of 1896-97. 40 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK. (Sewing introduced and maintained by the Women's Educational Union of Rochester.) Sewing has been started in the Public Schools of Rochester as an experiment with the permission of the Board of Education. 41 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS. Number of pupils, 1,250. Ages, from 10 to 14 years. School year forty weeks, from September to July. Each class receives one hour's instruction in sewing. The work is elementary, the aim being to give the pupils good training in the fundamental principles. The work is based on educational principles and is progressive ; at the same time such lines of work have been arranged as will be of m.ost practical benefit to the pupil. Each series of stitches taught is directly applied in the making of some garment or article. The pupils from the first are taught to cut and prepare their work. Classes average 45 pupils. 42 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF UTICA, NEW YORK. At the opening of the Public Schools, in this city, September 9, 1896, sewing for the girls was introduced into the fifth and sixth grades in all the Intermediate Departments of the schools. The minimum time to be devoted to this subject is one hour once in 36 EXHIBITION OF SEWING two weeks. The average age of pupils, in fifth grade, is lof years ; in sixth grade, iij years. Names enrolled, 635 ; average attendance, 550. Average num- ber of pupils in each class; 20. The instructions are under the di- rection of asupervisor ; the lessons are taught by an assistant in the ordinary classroom. This being the introductory year, each grade has been given the same instruction. The second year the sixth grade pupils will be given advanced work. The following is an out- line of work done this year: Position of pupil while sewing. How to choose needle and thread. The length of thread. Drill in threading the needle ; also in drawing the thread. How to make a knot. The use of the thimble. Practice in cutting small pieces of cloth by the thread. The use of the emery. The position of the needle, and the proper way of holding the work in the different stitches taught. How to begin, join, and fasten the thread. How to fold hems. Neatness and order in the care of the work. Stitches Taught. Basting ; over-hand ; running ; overcasting ; back-stitching ; running and back-stitching ; hemming ; gathering and laying of the gathers ; sewing on a band ; hemming down a band ; darning stockinet. The work on exhibition is numbered in the order in which the different stitches were taught. 43 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF WASHINGTON, D. C. Divisions 1-8. The teaching of sewing in the Public Schools of the District of Columbia was begun in a few schools, as an experiment, in Febru- ary. 1888, two teachers being placed in charge of this work. The result was so satisfactory that at the beginning of the next school year arrangements were made for a general introduction of the work into all the schools of the city and county. Four addi- tional teachers were appointed, which number has been increased each year, until at the present date (1897) there are regularly em- ployed 15 teachers in this branch of education. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 37 Instruction in plain sewing is given to all girls of the 3d, 4th and 5th Grades, one hour per week. A course in cutting and fitting by measurements is given to the 6th Grade. For this purpose rooms are fitted up in different sec- tions of the city to which pupils from adjacent schools are sent. One and a half hours' instruction a week is given to each class of not more than eighteen pupils. There are at present 6,500 girls receiving instruction in sewing. The necessary expenses for materials, etc., are paid from the regular school appropriations for industrial instruction, thus involv- ing no additional outlay on the part of parents. 44 Divisions 9, 10, n. The ages of the pupils of the sewing department are from 8 years of age, being first year pupils, to 11 and 12 years of age, being fourth year pupils. Our school term begins the third week in September and ends the third week in June. We hold one session of one hour per week, for the regular sew- ing classes, and one session of one hour and a half per week for the dressmaking or cutting classes. Sewing was first introduced into the Public Schools of Washing- ton, January i, 1888, under the management of the Miner Trustee School Board. At first only one teacher was employed. The teach- ing force has been steadily increased up to the present time, until we have eight teachers. The Course consists of three years' plain sewing and one year in dressmaking. During the past eight years 21,692 pupils have been regularly instructed in plain sewing, 75,543 models have been made, 30,435 garments, 44,342 buttonholes (in 1895-1896 the buttonhole count was not taken), 1,313 patterns have been draughted by actual meas- urement. In the Dressmaking Department, which was first introduced in September. 1891, 1,439 pupils have received training; 2,394 skirts have been cut, 988 skirts made, 3,639 waists cut, 2.000 waists made, and 3,616 patterns of sleeves, collars, pockets and revers have been also cut. 38 EXHIBITION OF SEWING The Emily G. Jones System of cutting-out, such as is used in the London Schools, is used in the draughting of plain garments. And the de Lamorton French System is used in our Dressmaking Department. 45 THE RHINELANDER SCHOOL (Children's Aid Society), 350 East 88th Street, between First and Second Avenues. Each class has an hour's lesson once a week, beginning October ist and continuing as late as possible into the spring. Ages of scholars, 6 to 12 years. Sewing in charge of a special teacher. The quilts are the work of the third grade ; girls of about 8 and 9 years old. The sample pieces are from the two higher grades ; the doll also being dressed by them. The flag and pieces of embroidery were made by the first class. The evening classes are to take embroidery lessons also. 46 ROCHESTER ATHEN^UM AND MECHANICS' INSTITUTE (Department of Domestic Science), 38 South Washington Street, Rochester, New York. Ages of scholars, 10 years to middle age (majority, 20 to 30 years). Sewing, The complete course includes three grades of three months each, with two lessons a week. Pupils are required to record in note- books, which are submitted for correction, the instruction received at each lesson, and a written examination is given at the end of each term. The course in sewing includes all kinds of hand sewing, machine sewing, and the draughting, cutting, fitting, and making of undergarments and dresses of wash material. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 39 Children's Classes. — These classes are arranged for children between the ages of 6 and 15. The course of study has been arranged to suit their capacity and to arouse their interest. These classes meet on Saturday mornings, from 9:30 to 11:30, and on three afternoons a week, from 4 to 6 o'clock, after the close of school. Throughout the course the pupil writes in a note-book the important points of each lesson illustrated as fully as possible by diagrams. Dressmaking. The complete course is systematically graded, and comprises three grades of three months each. Two lessons a week of two hours each are given. This course will embrace free-hand drawing, and form and color study. The pupils are shown a variety of mate- rials, and are instructed in regard to the texture, color, and suitability of each for various uses and for different types of wearers. The talks on form treat of the most becoming manner of making a dress, by adapting the lines of the material to those of the figure, and in selecting trimmings suited to the materials and to the character of the figure. Dresses are planned to carry out these principles. [See Advertisement, page xi.] 47 - COOPER SETTLEMENT SEWING SCHOOL, 269 Avenue C, New York City. School term, September ist to July ist. Ages of scholars, 8 to 14. Two sessions of one hour each a week. The sewing sent from the Cooper Settlement, 269 Avenue C, may be better understood after a few words of explanation. So much has been done in the teaching of sewing by means of drill and systems of exact models, executed in fine stitches, that any exhibit ignoring these things may not appeal to judges of needlework. The object of all instruction at the Cooper Settlement is to induce the children, in whatever material they use, to express their own individuality, to enable them in their daily living so to see and appreciate good quality, color, and suitability of material that they may instinctively avoid poor and tawdry display. Careful workmanship is encouraged and desired, but that the 40 EXHIBITION OF SEWING child should have a clear conception of the use and beauty of her work and express it appropriately is the chief aim. Classes in drawing and in simple design and color, study coordi- nate with those in sewing. Sewing, as far as is possible, is based on original desiga applied to some object to be made. This method stimulates the child's intelligence and keeps active her interest in needlework. The drawing classes afford a most valuable means of developing the child's powers of observation and of strengthening in her the habit of independent thinking, while that skill in the niceties of plain needlework, usually a matter of mechanical drill, comes more spontaneously if the child has originated and planned her work thoughtfully. Technique, however, is absolutely subordinated to free expression, hence the miscellaneous character and varying degrees of skill in the illustrative examples we have ventured to send to your exhibition. They include in one frame : First — Specimens of the basket-weaving of the North American Indians, by children of from six to ten years, who have been much interested in untwisting the rope iibres and originating the quaint basket forms while they have been told something of the race with which the art originated. The finger training is excellent, and there is no strain on the eyesight. Second — Specimens of weaving done on small hand frames in connection with which the variety of weaves, patterns, and com- bination of colors are under observation, the mind of the child being led to trace the development of the race as expressed in the practice of handicraft. Third — Crocheted hammocks and slippers, making a distinct gain in manual dexterity and the deft use of raw materials towards certain ends. F()urth — Miniature clothes-pin bags, bringing manufactured material into use, and emphasizing the need of strong, even stitches. Fifth — Shoe bags, by more advanced pupils, from ten to twelve years, stamped and embroidered by the children from their original designs. The second frame contains work cut out and fitted together by girls from ten to twelve years of age. It includes, as will be seen, aprons simply hemmed ; outing sacks unfinished, but showing the advance to work of greater complexity ; linen squares with original designs applied in a manner considered appropriate by the class, showing creative power. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 41 The third frame contains original applied design executed in embroidery, shown in a centrepiece and two small pieces of linen for the dining-table, a handkerchief and case, and two portfolios made by an advanced class of working girls. Beside the frames containing the articles scheduled above, we send a small bed, the furnishings of which, including mattress and pillows, were made by three girls of from fourteen to fifteen. Each article was made from measurements taken by the girls themselves, who also decided upon and selected their materials with due regard to their fitness and beauty. This work afforded an opportunity for talks on the evolution of the bed, which was traced from primitive rudeness through mediaeval splendor of an unsanitary character to the modern bed. There is also a small dining-table with napkins and tablecloth hemmed by children of from eight to ten years of age. It was the text for talks on home keeping, the fathers' and mothers' provision of food and exercise of hospitality with good cheer. SCHOOL OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE, 52 Berkeley Street, Boston, Massachusetts. Number of scholars, 30 ; ages, 19 to 30 years. Two lessons a week in sewing, one in dress-cutting, and one in dressmaking, from October ist to June ist. The Course in Educational Sewing is designed for teachers, but \ is adapted to other students. Each pupil is required to complete a series of twenty models, and write teaching exercises on the same. Talks are given on the manufacture of cotton, wool, silk, needles, pins, etc. Draughting Course consists of lessons in draughting undergar- ments and simple articles, as bibs, pockets, etc. Garments made are reduced to one-quarter size. Dress-cutting Course includes use of Mrs. Flesher's Tailor Sys- tem, cutting of waist, and fitting. Dressmaking Course includes finishing of waist, cutting and finishing of skirt. 42 EXHIBITION OF SEWING Matron's Sewing Course gives practical work in sewing pertain- ing to all departments of the house, including mending. A Millinery Course is also included in the Domestic Art Depart- ment. This is a course designed for home use. [See Advertisement, page ix.] 49 SOCIETY OF DECORATIVE ART, 14 East 34th Street, New York City. The class in "Italian Cutwork " of the Society commenced in January, 1896, with six members, contributors to the salesroom of the Society, who received weekly lessons gratis from one of the Managers. After receiving instruction for five months, these ladies, already skilled in fine needlework, were able to undertake the orders which had been waiting for them, and carry them out successfully, with occasional hints as to the detail of the work. Amateurs were also taught in class, the samples on exhibition being used as models. Two ideas are represented by these classes. First, that a knowledge of fifteen or twenty stitches, derived from the beautiful old Italian Cutwork of the sixteenth century — the forerunners of Venice point — gives an insight into the study of lace, otherwise unattainable. Second, that for household linen, it is possible to simplify and adapt these old designs, giving \.\\& feelings even if the former elabo- rate execution be impossible in this nineteenth century. The linen thread — fil cmir de lin — and the hand-woven linen used, the Decorative Art is obliged to import for the purpose. The success which has attended the work of these classes shows that the ideas are of practical and educational value, and capable of much greater extension. 50 SOUTHERN INDUSTRIAL CLASSES, Norfolk, Virginia. Two lessons a day (Saturdays excepted) throughout the year. Number of scholars, 400 ; ages, from 7 to 24 years. The school is not yet a year old. The exhibit consists of models from one teacher and two pupils. One, whose book is sent, is just finish- AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 43 ing her course, and will get a certificate for a first-class seamstress. The other is only eight years old, and four months ago the child did not know how to thread a needle. This is a colored school. 51 ST. ANDREWS SEWING SCHOOL, 2067 Fifth Avenue, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings from the middle of October to the middle of April. Number of scholars, 300 ; average attendance, 230 ; ages, 3 to 17 years. The school is graded, and is designed to give each scholar a systematic training in sewing. Every scholar receives for her own each garment she makes, and no work is sold from the School. It is supported by the Ladies' Guild of St. Andrew's Church. 52 ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S MISSION SEWING SCHOOL, 207 East 42d Street, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings, for one hour and a half, from the middle of October to the first Saturday in May. Number of scholars, 488 ; average attendance, 400 ; ages, 5 to 16 years. ST. JAMES' SEWING SCHOOL, Madison Avenue and 7rst Street, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings, 10 to 12 o'clock, from November to May. Number of scholars, 175 ; ages, 5 to 13 years. The course consists of First, Second, and Third Grades for girls ; one Grade for boys. Children are promoted as each piece is finished satisfactorily. Garments are made when course is completed. 44 EXHIBITION OF SEWING 54 ST. MICHAEL'S INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, 225 West 99th Street, New York City. Meets Saturday mornings, 10 to 12 o'clock, from the second Saturday in November to the middle of May. Number of scholars, 225; average attendance, 90 per cent.; ages, 6 to 14 years. 55 ST. THOMAS' MISSION SEWING SCHOOL, 229 East 59th Street, New York City. Meets once a week from October to June. Number of scholars, 242 ; ages, 5 to 14 years. 56 STONOVER SEWING SCHOOL, Lenox, Massachusetts. Meets Saturday mornings, 10:30 o'clock, from July 15th to October 15th. Number of scholars, 102 ; ages, 4 to 16 years. Primary and Courses I, II, HI, IV. The present system has been in use three seasons. 57 TEACHERS COLLEGE, Morningside Heights, 120th Street, West, New York City. Exhibit. I. Series of models contained in the " Sewing Course " pub- lished by Teachers College. Four frames. II. Sewing of Horace Mann School. Five grades. Ages, 6 to 12. (Boys and girls in first three grades.) Time, 80 minutes a week in each grade. Work, entire preparation of the model : i.e., folding, matching, basting, etc., is done by the children. The work of exhibition was judged and selected by the children, except in Grade I. Six frames. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 45 III. Study of Textiles. Small samples to illustrate the course. Four frames. IV. Miscellaneous Exhibits. (I) Dressmaking. Full-sized draughts are drawn and then reduced to one-half ; the garment is made in the smaller size. This saves time, and the completed article serves for a model for the teacher. Those who desire to make the full-sized garment are at liberty to do so. The exhibit shows a series of the half-sized garments. (II) Books and models of high school sewing and machine work. (Dressmaking was begun only this year in the high school and cannot be represented in the exhibit.) (III) Course of Drawing and Color in connection with dressmaking. Cards one-fourth the true size and illustrating the steps ; not the full course. (IV) The " Sewing Course " in use at Teachers' College. Two show cases. COURSE FOR TEACHERS. The Domestic Art Department, supplemented by the college courses, trains teachers and supervisors of its branch of manual training. It aims to give them a broad outlook on subjects con- nected with sewing, their educational value and means of teaching them in all grades of schools and missions. To develop taste and appreciation of beauty in the healthful covering of the body and in the decoration of the home, topics leading to this end receive special attention. Those taking the course leading toward the diploma have prac- tice teaching in the classes of the school to thoroughly fit them for their chosen work. For a fuller statement of the preparation of the teacher, see below the work in the Horace Mann School and Manual Training High School. Certain classes are open to those outside of the college who desire to study on these lines. Horace Mann School. The course in sewing in the Horace Mann School has for its aim the development of character in the child. Special attention is given 46 EXHIBITION' OF SEWING to child study and psychology, so that the mental need of the indi- vidual child may be known. The attention, temperament, physical condition, home influence and manual ability of each pupil are con- sidered, to guide the teacher in her work. Children in first years in school are carefully guarded from injur- ing their eyes. Drills are given them for threading, holding and using the needle, for the use of thimble, scissors, tape measures, etc. Coarse needles are used and large stitches demanded. Class teaching is used in all grades to train the attention and observation. The work is judged by the children. The demon- stration frame and board work play a large part in the teaching. Each grade has its principles, its application of these principles to some article or garment, and additional work to keep the quicker children busy until the class is ready for the next step. Talks on new stitches and their uses, the manufacture of textiles, the cost of material, healthful dress, the home and its beautifying, etc., are given for ten minutes before every lesson. These are found to develop the child in expression, in wider interests, and in appre- ciation of work and the worker. The High School. The course aims to make clear the fundamental principles of dressmaking. Plain sewing, patching, darning, simple embroidery, machine stitching, taking of accurate measurements, economical cutting and careful fitting, all receive attention. Each student draughts, fits and makes for herself (i) some simple articles of underwear, (2) an unlined skirt and shirt waist, and (3) a lined wool dress. The work covers three grades of the High School and occupies eighty minutes a week. Such subjects as tend to develop good taste are discussed in the classes. [See Advertisement, page iv.] 58 TWENTY-FIRST WARD MISSION AND INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, 305 East 41st Street, New York City. Number of pupils, 48; average attendance, 20. One session a week on Saturday afternoon. School term from October to April. Age of pupils, from 4 to 13 years, inclusive. The exhibit is a sam[)Ie AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 47 of what has been accomplished by adopting the Children's Course of Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, in less than two seasons. 59 VACATION SCHOOLS OF THE NEW YORK ASSOCIA- TION FOR IMPROVING THE CONDITION OF THE POOR. Number of pupils, 3,000; average attendance, 2,000. Five sessions each week from June 21st to August 29th. Ages, from 6 to 16 for girls, and 8 to 12 for boys. Vacation schools are for the purpose of taking as many children as possible off the streets during the summer, and giving them useful manual training in such a manner that learning becomes a recreation. The schools — the use of which is kindly given us by the Board of Education — are situated in those parts of the city where the pop- ulation is densest. The popularity of the schools is attested by the eagerness with which the little ones clamor to be admitted, and the good accom- plished there is far greater than the promoters anticipated. The enthusiasm manifested by the children is contagious. Hundreds of visitors last summer carried away with them a delight- ful memory not to be effaced by years. Perhaps no charity more thoroughly demonstrates its value, or justifies its existence, and the Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor, which has con- ducted the schools for the past three years, feels that in making an appeal for sufficient funds to operate not less than ten schools during the coming summer — four more than last season — it will meet with a ready response from the generous who will gladly cooperate in helping the poor and in benefiting our great city in so practical and gladsome a manner. Each school costs the Association ^1,000. Ten thousand dollars will therefore be needed. [See Advertisement, page ii.] 60 VERMILYE CHAPEL SEWING SCHOOL, 794 Tenth Avenue, New York City. (48th Street Collegiate Church.) Number of pupils, 224; average attendance, 154, Ages, from 3 to 14 years. Term from first Saturday in November to the last Saturday in April. 48 EXHIBITION OF SEWING 6i WEST SIDE DAY NURSERY AND INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL, 266 West 140th Street, New York City. Number of scholars, 40; average attendance, 28. Ages, 5 to 15 years; average age, 9 years. Five sessions held a week, from Mon-- day to Saturday, afternoons from 3 to 5. School term from Novem- ber to May. Two afternoons are devoted to sewing, two to crochet- ing and knitting, and one to cooking. One paid teacher only for each session of the school. The number of pupils is limited by the Board of Health to 30, on account of size of rooms. The children pay 10 cents a week for instruction and generally earn it themselves. The afternoon sessions coming after school hours, the girls are not as fresh as when attending Saturday morning schools. The crochet and knitting work of the exhibit is made from pupil's own materials, and the articles such as they made are for home use, not especially for exhibition purposes, and were made without aid from the teacher. Most of the pupils were once children of the Day Nursery. 62 WORKINGMAN'S SCHOOL, 109 West 54th Street, New York City. The cards represent the work of the different grades as it is car- ried on this year. Owing to a change in the course, we have been obliged, in one or two instances, to substitute teachers' samples for pupils' work. In the two lowest classes boys and girls work together. In the Third Year, the tucking, gauging, and gathering patches, lead to the apron, in which the principles of tucking, gaug- ing, and gathering to a band are practically applied. Then follow the different plackets and gussets. In the Fourth Year, the principles of weaving and darning are taught. Also the cutting and joining of bias, and the joining of material so as to match design. Then a round apron is draughted and made. This apron is faced with bias strips. In the Fifth Year, the different flaps and flys, child's drawers, and buttonholes and patching are introduced. The Sixth Year girls join embroidery so as to match design, prac- tise feather stitching, and make a chemise and night-gown by hand and machine. The patterns for all the garments are draughted by AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 49 the children from actual measurements. Each child is required to write a description of the draught, also to describe how the garment is made, and to sketch it when finished, thus connecting the sewing with the language and art worker. We have enclosed a number of draughts and descriptions of the different garments. In the Seventh Year, elementary millinery is taught. In the Eighth and Latin Classes, girls draught waists, using the Brown system. Each child makes a simple dress for herself. In all classes but the last named the school furnishes materials. The work of the Seventh and Eighth Grades is not far enough advanced this year to enable us to send finished samples ; the work of last year having been taken away by pupils. The children in the sewing classes are within the ages of 6 and 17. The school term begins about September 15th, and ends about June 15th. P^ach class has one session a week ; the primaries, of three-quar- ters to one hour ; the upper grades, an hour and a half. There are about 182 in the schools who are taught sewing. This number includes the boys of the primary classes. YOUNG WOMEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION OF BROOKLYN, Schermerhorn Street and Flatbush Avenue. 1. Age of pupils in Junior Sewing Classes, 10 to 15 years. In the Adult Classes, 15 to 35 years. 2. Terms begin October ist and end July ist. 3. One session per week in all classes except the adult white sewing class, which meets twice a week, and the Trade Millinery Class, which meets five days in the week. 4. Evening classes in White Sewing, and Dressmaker's Training and the Junior White Sewing Class are free. A nominal sum is charged in all other classes. Many of the pupils in the adult Sewing, Dressmaking, and Mil- linery Classes are young women who are fitting themselves for busi- ness positions. The larger number have had no training in Sewing. Occasionally there are young married women in the classes. Most of the pupils in the Evening Classes are working women or girls, employed in Factories, or as Domestics, Housekeepers, Sales- women, Stenographers, Telegraph Operators, Teachers, etc. 4 50 EXHIBITION OF SEWING The Day Classes— with the exception of the Millinery Trade Course — are mostly composed of young women who are not obliged to support themselves, but wish to make their own clothing and hats. 64 YOUNG WOMEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 7 East 15th Street. Number of pupils, 1,202. Courses in Hand and Machine Sewing. First course, 26 lessons of 2 hours each, 2 per week. Second course, 16 lessons of 2 hours each, 2 per week. Third course, 14 lessons of 2 hours each, 2 per week. Fourth course, 14 lessons of 2 hours each, 2 per week. Dressmakers' Training Classes. First Course. Day classes, 10 lessons of 2 hours each, 2 per week. Evening classes, 10 lessons of 2 hours each, i per week. Second Course. Cut and Fit, day classes, 15 lessons of 2 hours each, 3 per week, including system. Cut and Fit, evening classes, 15 lessons of 2 hours each, 2 per week, including system. Third Course. Finishing, day classes, 14 lessons of 2 hours each, 3 per week. Finishing, evening classes, 14 lessons of 2 hours each, i per week. Classes in Dress Repairs. Evening classes, 10 lessons of 2 hours each, 2 per week. Millinery. First course, 24 lessons, 4 day lessons, 2 evening lessons per week. Second course, 24 lessons, 4 day lessons, 2 evening lessons per week. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 51 Third course, 20 lessons, 4 day lessons, 2 evening lessons per week. Course in Feather Curling, 10 lessons, day and evening classes. 65 YOUNG WOMEN'S SECTION OF THE EDUCATIONAL ALLIANCE, East Broadway and Jefferson Street, New York City. Age of pupils ranges from 9 to 14 years. Term begins first Monday in September and closes last Thursday in July. First Division of six classes holds 2 sessions per week. The Second Division of five classes holds one session per week. Number of pupils of Sewing Schools is 500. GALLERY E. EXHIBITS FROM FOREIGN COUNTRIES. 66. Belgium, 71. Japan. 6-1. England. 72. Mexico. 68. France. 73- Russia. 69. Germany. 74. Sweden. 70. Hawaiian ISLA nds. 75- Switzerland, The Governments of Germany and Russia, not having sent exhibits, specimens made in schools of those countries are loaned by the Treasurer of the Association, and by the Teachers College. 66 BELGIUM. The Burgomasters of Brussels and of Ghent send exhibits from professional schools for young girls, which, under the patronage of the State and Communal Governments, were founded in 1865 by the Association for the Professional Education of Women. The instruction comprises general and special courses. The former is obligatory for all pupils. The latter gives training (or special professions or trades. The general course includes the French and Flemish languages, arithmetic, bookkeeping, history, geography, rudiments of natural sciences, hygiene, domestic economy, writing, drawing, manual training, singing, gymnastics, and cooking. The special courses are : 1. Business, applied arithmetic, bookkeeping, commercial law, commercial geography, the English and German languages. 2. Dressmaking. 3. Lingerie. 4. Industrial design ; laces, embroideries. 5. Artificial flowers. 6. Painting on porcelain, pottery, glass, and fans. 7. Modes. 8. Corsets. No pupils are admitted under twelve years of age, and they must have received a primary education. Diplomas and certificates of ability are given to pupils in all the professional courses who submit to the necessary examination. The fee for tuition is $7.20 a quarter, payable in advance, October ist, December 20th, March loth, and June ist. 56 EXHIBITION OF SEWING BRUSSELS. PROFESSIONAL SCHOOL. 1. Note books, Sewing, Drafting, First, Second, and Third years, Designing, Bills of exchange, bills of lading, Notes, correspondence, etc. 2. Domestic economy. First, Second, and Third years. Cooking, " "■ " " Hygiene, " " " " 3. Professional bookkeeping, Domestic bookkeeping. 4. Mending. 5. Specimens of sewing. 6. Designing, Ornamental, From nature. GHENT. PROFESSIONAL SCHOOL. 7. Text books, Organization of school, Materials, Grammar, Arithmetic, Geography. 8. Study of Materials, First year. Second year. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 57 9. Drafting, First year, Second year, Third year. 10. Designing, First year, Second year, Third year. 67 ENGLAND. In the schools under the direction of the School Board for Lon- don, sewing is taught in seven grades or standards in the Girls' and Infants' Departments, and also to the pupil teachers. The age of children attending the Infant Schools varies from 3 to 7. The younger ones are taught to thread their needles, put on their thimbles and hold their work by means of what is called " drill," i.e., simultaneous action at a given word of command. They are also taught later to knit. The adoption of this system in the Infant Schools has become universal in consequence of the large size of the classes, and also because the children learn with much greater ease than if taught individually. Needlework and cutting-out are taught three hours each week in the Upper Schools by simultaneous methods, and the various teaching appliances in use in the schools are included in the London School Board Exhibit. All materials for teaching the various stitches, etc., required by the Government Code, are sent in to the schools from the Board's stores (at the beginning of each school year), as also the material for the requisite garments to be made by the children, which are sold at cost price at the end of the school year, after being examined by the government inspectors. Cutting-out, patching and darning old garments, and dressmaking are also taught. The former is obligatory, the two latter subjects are not compulsory, though encouraged by the Board where the sur- rounding conditions are favorable. The head mistress of a school divides the year's work into four 58 EXHIBITION OF SEWING parts, and draws up her own syllabus for each quarter. The classes are examined by her at the end of each quarter, marks are given by her, the percentage of the same is taken, and the total assessed accordingly (see scale below). The London School Board employs three women examiners, whose duty it is to visit the various schools. By this the work is kept up to as high a level as possible, and methods, etc., suggested to the teachers. Scale of assessments by percentage of marks : loo to 90 Excellent, 90 to 80 Very Good, 80 to 70 Good, 70 to 60 Very Fair, 60 to 50 Fair, 50 to 40 Weak, Below 40 Very Weak. The other branches of household training, cooking, laundry and general housework, are also taught in small buildings built within the school enclosure. They are called Cooking and Laundry Centres, the older pupils from several schools in a district coming to a given Centre for instruction. The specimens from thirty-one schools include the preparatory stitches, examples of darning, handkerchiefs, aprons, chemises, night- gowns, dresses for children and girls, dolls, stockings and various knitted and crocheted articles and designs in color. L Needlework. SCHOOL. DEPARTMENT. 1. Adys Road, Girls. " " Infants. 2. Basnet Road, " 3. Beresford Street, Girls. Infants. 4. Church Street, Clapham, Girls. 5. Ecclesbourne Road, " " " Infants. 6. Eltringham Street, " 7. Gideon Road, Girls. 8. Holland Street, " AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 59 SCHOOL. 9. Hecton's Road, 10. Medburn Street, 11. Montem Street, 12. Nunhead Passage, 13. Napier Street, 14. Oldridge Road, 15. Oxford Gardens, 16. Plough Road, 17. Peckham Park, 18. Reddens' Road, 19. St. Dunstan's Road, 20. Surrey Lane, 21. Webb Street, 22. West Square, 23. Wood's Road, 24. Whitfield Street, 25. Wilton Road, << a 26. White Lion Street, 27. Woodland Road. DEPARTMENT. Girls. Infants. Girls. Infants. Girls. Infants. Girls. <( Infants. Girls. Infants. Girls. II. Articles for Demonstration in Needlework, Books, Etc. 28. Laubert's Demonstration Pieces with stand for frame. 29. Stockwell Demonstration Frame. 30. Ordinary. 31. Demonstration Sheets (Griffiths & Farren). 32. Charts, etc., of the four systems of dress cutting used by the Board. 2^2)- Case of specimens. 34. Sheet of specimens and drawings. 35. Card, showing working in Standard III. 36. Design for a lady's zouave jacket. 6o EXHIBITION OF SEWING 2fi. Text Books on needlework. Needlework for student teachers. Needlework for continuation schools. Needlework and cutting out. Needlework, knitting, cutting out (4 books). Pattern-making by paper folding. Self-teaching, needlework manual. III. Advanced Kindergarten Occupations. SCHOOL. DEPARTMENT. 38. Victoria Place, Girls. 39. Buckingham Terrace, " 40. Choumest Road, " 41. Medburn Street, " 42. The Highway, " 43. Holland Street, " 44. Beethoven Street, " 45. St. Dunstan's Road, " 46. Sherbrooke Road. " IV. Note-Books and Drawings — Illustrative. SCHOOL. department. 47. Sherbrooke Road, Girls. 48. Medburn Street, " 49. Lavender Hill, " 50. Gideon Road, " 51. Burghly Road. " Old English Sewing Book loaned by Miss Knox. The history of this book is that the grandfather of Miss Knox, Rev. John Mason, of the Scotch Presbyterian Church of New York, on one of his visits to England, was interested in the work of the so-called " Ragged Schools," and that this book was sent to him at that time by order of the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria. AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 6i It shows that the systematic graded training of children, in- cluding the folding of paper hems, and thence advancing to the making of garments, was taught in the schools of that period. 68 FRANCE. Sewing is taught in all grades of the public schools, the infants' schools, the normal school and the normal class included. In the latter class teachers may prepare themselves to take the necessary examinations to obtain the certificate for teaching sewing and industrial designing. The use of the needle and pencil is taught simultaneously, especially in the professional schools, where, as in Belgium, girls from thirteen to sixteen years of age receive in- struction in the manual professions or trades, dressmaking, cooking, laundry work, the making of corsets, flowers, etc. This practical education for women in France received its first impetus from Madame Eliza Lemonnier, who, in 1856, formed the "Society for the Protection of Young Girls." In 1862 this was changed to the "Society for the Professional Teaching of Women," and its first school was opened. The municipality of Paris later adopted its methods, and the French Government has developed that system of schools for pro- fessional teaching of boys and girls which has had so great an in- fluence upon the industrial life of France. SCHOOL. 1. Rue des Volontaires. 2. Rue Fondary, 3. Rue Bossuet. 4. Normal School. 5. Normal Class. 69 GERMANY. In the public schools sewing is taught three and four hours each week. In the girl's high school at Wiesbaden two hours a week are devoted to it. It is first taught in the fifth school year, knitting, G2 EXHIBITION OF SEWING crocheting and cross-stitch being given in the previous years. The course includes : 1. First sewing year, stitches and simple seams. 2. Second sewing year, patching. 3. Third sewing year, darning. 4. Fourth sewing year, household embroidery. A chemise is made in the third year. 70 HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. HONOLULU. PoHUKAiNA School. First years course, 40 lessons in hand sewing. Miss Laura Duncan of Honolulu writes : " Three years ago the Board of Education placed $50.00 with me and asked me to put plain sewing into my school of 190 Hawaiian girls, and to make out a plan for the work to be sent out to all the government schools. I send you the forty lessons as I arranged them, and as they are now being carried out in thirty-one different schools. " 1,154 girls, Hawaiian half-caste, Portuguese, Japanese, Chinese, and a few whites are doing the work under the supervision of the government school teachers. " I have had no outside help, and feel that much more might be done, in the lower grade of sewing, if work was graded to corres- pond with the grades in school-work." 71 JAPAN. The Minister of Education of Japan sends industrial drawings and specimens of materials and instruments for hand-work, and also AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 63 for showing the processes of instruction in sewing, and for the mak- ing of garments for men, women, and children. A, Industrial Drawings by the Pupils of the Higher Normal School for Females. 1. First and second year classes (between 17 J^- and 2i| years of age). 2. Fourth year classes (between 19I- and 25 1 years of age). B. Industrial Drawings by the Pupils of the Higher Fe- male School attached to the Higher Normal School. 1. First year class (between 10 and 14^ years of age). 2. Second year class (between 11 ^ and 14I years of age). 3. Third year class (between ii^^g- and 14I years of age). 4. Fourth year class — a — (between 12 and i6jV years). 5. Fourth year class — b — (between 12 and 16^-^2 years). 6. Fifth year class — a — (between 12^ and 17I years). 7. Fifth year class — b — (between 12^ and i7|- years). 8. Sixth year class (between iSy^ and 18^ years of age). C. Specimens Showing the Processes of Instruction in Sewing in the Higher Female School attached to THE Higher Normal School. 1. First year class, Nos. i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. 2. Second year class, Nos. 10, n, 12, 13, 14. 3. Third year class, Nos. 15, r6, 17, 18, 19. 4. Fourth year class, Nos. 20, 21, 22, 23. 5. Fifth year class, Nos. 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30. 6. Sixth year class, Nos. 31, 32. D. Handiwork of the Pupils of the Ordinary Elementary Course attached to the Higher Normal School. 1. First year class (between dJ^- and 7|4- years). 2. Second year class (between 7 and 9^ years of age). 3. Third year class (between 7^ and loi years). 4. Fourth year class (between 9^ and ii| years). 64 EXHIBITION OF SEWING E. Materials and Instruments for Handiwork in the Ordinary Elementary Course attached to the Higher Normal School. F. Drawings by the Pupils {\b\ to i8 Years of Age) of the Supplementary Course in the Higher Female School attached to the Higher Normal School. G. Specimens of Work from the Technical School at Kana- zawa, to which was awarded the First Prize for Women's Work ever given in Japan. [Loaned by Dr. Thomas Egleston.] 72 MEXICO. Specimens of drawn work from a girl's boarding-school at Sal- titto, Mexico. RUSSIA. Specimens showing the course of instruction in plain sewing in professional schools. 74 SWEDEN. A series of models illustrating Miss Hulda Lundin's system of teaching girls' sloyd. (This term includes all kinds of handiwork.) The models are made by pupils in the public schools (primary and grammar) of Stockholm. Age, 7 to 14 years. The aim of the instruction in girls' sloyd is : I. To exercise hand and eye ; n. To quicken the power of thought ; HI. To strengthen love of order ; AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 65 IV. To develop independence ; V. To inspire respect for carefully and intelligently executed work ; and at the same time VI. To prepare girls for the execution of their domestic duties. The instruction has two objects in view : a. It shall be an educational medium ; b. It shall fit the girls for practical life. Experience has proveh that the desired results can be best reached by 1. Practical demonstration of the subject J 2. Progressive order with regard to the exercises ; and 3. Class instruction. (i) Practical demonstration in sewing is given by means of a sewing frame, and in knitting by means of large wooden needles and colored balls of yarn ; and also by drawings on the blackboard. (2) The exercises are planned and carried out in the most strictly progressive order, so as to enable the pupils to execute well the work required of them. (3) The instruction in sloyd should — like that in other branches — be given to the whole class at the same time, otherwise the time which the teacher could devote to each pupil separately, would be insufficient to secure the desired results. In order to illustrate the progress from the simple to the more complex in the teaching of sloyd, we give the following class divisions of the subjects, which are in use at the present time in the public schools of Stockholm. Standard I. 1. Plain knitting with 2 needles : a pair of garters. 2. Plain knitting : a pair of warm wristers. Standard II. 3. Plain knitting : a towel. — Practice in the different kinds of stitches : running, stitching, hemming, and overcasting : a lamp- mat. 4. The application of the already named stitches : one small and one large needlework bag. 5 66 EXHIBITION OF SEWING Standard III, 5. A needlework case. Simple darning on canvas : a mat for a candlestick. 6. An apron. Standard IV. 7. Plain and purl knitting : slate-eraser and a pair of mittens. 8. A plain chemise. Standard V. 9. Knitting : a pair of stockings. 10. Drawing the pattern, cutting out, and making a chemise. Standard VI, 11. Patching on colored material. Plain stocking-darning. Button-holes. Buttons made of thread. Sewing on tapes, hooks, and eyes. 12. Drawing the pattern, cutting out, and making a shirt or a pair of drawers. Standard VII. 13. Fine darning and marking. Drawing the pattern for a dress. Cutting out articles such as are required in Standards II. — IV. 14. Drawing the pattern, cutting out, and making a dress. The time given to needlework : Standard I 2 hours a week, II., III. and IV. . 4 " " " V. and VI. , 5 " " " '' VII 6 " " " 75 SWITZERLAND. In the cities of Geneva and Zurich sewing is obligatory in the public schools. In the former place it is taught for six years of the school course, in the latter for three years, and optional for three more. From three to six hours each week are devoted to it. In Geneva manual training begins in the first school year. It includes AMERICAN ART GALLERIES. 67 various kinds of sewing, mending, household embroidery, knitting, crocheting and the cutting of garments. On the latter and upon mending great importance is laid. In all the schools the teaching is methodical, progressive and collective. Explanations and demon- strations are first given to the entire class by the use of the black- board and demonstration frame ; later to the individual pupil. After having drawn, in a progressive manner, designs and pat- terns in their note-books, the scholars are taught to draught and cut in paper, especially prepared for the purpose, patterns for the gar- ments which they are to make later in materials. The cheapness of the paper permits many copies of the same garment to be made. Examinations are held at the close of each school year by an inspectress, who, in addition to directing the work of the classes of sewing in the Canton of Geneva, arranges the programme and teaches a normal class. In this the young teachers receive instructions as to the methods and pedagogic rules which they should follow. The specimens include knitting, preparatory stitches, darning and patch- ing, designs for draughting of patterns, and the making of garments. AN INFORMAL CONFERENCE WILL BE HELD ON FRIDAY, MARCH 26TH, AT 3 P.M.. IN TlIlL ASSEMBLY HALL OF THE CHARITIES BUILDING, Fourth Avenue and Twenty-second Street. SUBJECTS FOR DISCUSSION. Sewing in Church Schools and Institutes . Paper by Miss J. Patterson. Sewing in Public Schools Paper by Mrs. A. L. Jessup. Sewing in Training and Technical Schools . Paper by Miss H. S. Sackett. THIS CONFERENCE IS FREE TO ALL. DoDD, Mead & Company Have published two books of practical value in every household ^ t^ ^ ^ MENDING AND REPAIRING By Charles Godfrey Leland. Illustrated. i2M0, Cloth, $1.50. A very practical book for the use of the household and travel- lers, giving instructions for mending and repairing every con- ceivable article of ordinary daily utility. The work contains a number of admirable diagrams illustrating the text. It should prove an invaluable book for housekeepers. Partial Contents: — Mending Broken China — Repairing Woodwork — Restoring Books — Directions for Binding Books — Repairing Leatherwork — How- to Mend Hats — Invisible Mending of Laces, Embroideries, Garments — Restoring and Repairing Pictures, etc. YE GENTLEWOMAN'S HOUSEWIFERY Compiled and Illustrated by Miss' Margaret Hunt- ington Hooker. i2mo, $1.50. Illustrated with over two hundred drawings in the text, of old-fashioned utensils, bric-a-brac, etc., and numerous other cuts of value to the housekeeper. THEY OFFER IN THEIR RETAIL DEPARTMENT an unusually large assortment of books suitable for pres- entation. They have this year bound up a large number of single volumes and small sets in attractive styles, many tooled to their own exclusive designs. ALL NEW BOOKS ARE RECEIVED by them immediately on publication, and all current books are sold at discount prices. FOR EVERY BOOK LOVER The Bookman, A Literary Journal. Book lovers will be interested in a monthly illustrated magazine that is devoted exclusively to literature and its progress in America and England. No person who laj's claim to culture and wide reading can afford to be without The Bookman. Single copy, 20 cents; per year, $2.00. address communications to DODD, MEAD & CO., Publishers, New York Uacaticn Schools— Season mi TEN SCHOOLS ARE NEEDED FOR TEN THOUSAND CHILDREN THEY WILL COST .... TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS One Dollar gives one child Education and Recreation for six weeks HOW MANY POOR CHILDREN ARE YOU WILLING TO HELP? In our semi-tropical climate more genuine happiness and physical comfort can be conferred on the children of the poor by giving them Fresh Air than in almost any other way. This is afforded by the cool school-rooms, and their minds are improved by instruction in the form of amusement. Checks should be made payable to Warner Van Norden, Treasurer, No. 25 Nassau Street. Cbe new Vork Jlssociation for Tmprooing fbe Condition of tbc Poor R. Fulton Cutting, President Rev. Wm. R. Huntington, D.D., 1 Warner Van Norden, Treasurer Henry E. Cuami'Ton, M.D., | George Calder, Secretary William G. Hamilton, \ p -j, ^ John L. Cadwalader, Counsel Constant A. Andrews, | ^^^^'"i-'"'^ Wm. H. Toi.man, Ph.D., General Agent Howard Townsend, J Vice- KNOX'S WORLD-RENOWNED HATS The Standard of Fashion Everywhere i94 Fifth Aveiiup, under Fifth A-venne Hotel, Now Yorli. 818 BroaflvFay, comer Fulton Street, New York. S40 Fulton Street, Brooklyn. 191 and 193 State Street (Palmer House). Chicago. Agents in all the principal cities. • SIX HIGHEST AWARDS AT THE COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION Ladies in Search of Art Needlework and Material will always find the Latest and Choicest Selection at Dana's ♦♦♦♦ 40 West 22d Street Back of Stem Bros. Lessons in Embroidery given, 5a cents per hour, and Pieces Commenced. Stamping while you wait. New York School of Applied Design for Women 200 iAZEST 23rd street Incorporated 1892 Elihu Root, esq. Rev. John Wesley Brown, D.D Benjamin C. Porter, Esq., N.A. loHN Cleary, Esq. "Mrs. Dunlap Hopkins DIRECTORS Thomas B. Clarke, Esq., President Mrs. George Kemp Hon George L. ingraham I. Carroll Beckwith, Esq., N.A. Francis Lathrop, Esq., N. A. PATRON Clarence M. Hyde, esq. Mrs. James Harriman Mrs. L. a. Carroll s. V. White, Esq. H. R. H. The Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein Princess of Great Britain and Ireland ELLA B. WOODWARD Manufactured by Thos. Strachan & Co. Wall Paper, Silk, Carpet, Book Cover Designing, Historic Ornament Architecture; Illustration and Animal Drawing under Dan C. Beard; Water Color under Paul de Longpre XEeacbere Colleoe IRew L)or??, /ifcornlngsiDe ff^cigbts 120tb Street, Mest PROFESSIONAL training for intending teachers, and oppor- tunities for specialization and graduate study. Alliance with Columbia University, certain courses in Teachers College count- ing towards the Columbia University degrees. Departments of Psychology and General Method, School Supervision, English, History, Mathematics, Latin and Greek, Science, Domestic Science, Domestic Art, Manual Training and Art Education, and Kindergarten. Observation and practice. DOMESTIC SCIENCE DOMESTIC ART Two years' course. Psycholojry and Two years' course. Psychology and general method, history of education, soci- general method, history of education, soci- ology, physics, chemistry, biology, bacteri- «'°Sy' freehand and mechanical drawing, , , . . , , J I- . •' , study or textiles, color and torm in their ology, chemistry of foods, dietaries, house- ^^,^^j^„ ^^ costunie and household decora- hold economics, departmental management, tion, departmental management, sewing, laboratory work in cooking, observation and draughting, cutting and making of gar- practice-teaching, ments, observation and practice-teaching. Send for circidars of in formation and " Teachers College Bulletin " WALTER L. HERVEY, President STATE School for the Blind BATAVL\, N. Y. Established to furnish the Blind Children of the State the best known facilities for acquiring a thorough education. THREE DEPARTMENTS:— LITERARY, MUSIC, INDUSTRL\L TUITION, BOOKS AND BOARD 1-REE For full information, address GARDNER FULLER, Superintendent ALICB MAYNARD Zl\T^\l\.n... JO West Twenty^Second Street SCOTCH KNITTING YARNS BURLAP CANVAS AND WOOLS FOR WEAVING CLASSES Complete lines of Oil Linens and Silks. Short Knitting Needles of all numbers. THE MOST POPULAR ARTICLES OF THEIR KIND FOR HAND AND MACHINE SEWING Wi Clark's 0,N.T. Crochet Cotton ON SPOOLS Clark's 0*N*T* Darning Cotton ON SPOOLS MILWARD'S HELIX NEEDLES AND MARSHALL'S LINEN THREADS ^ FOR SALE EVERYWHERE Have You Patience? enough to continue to do sewing by hand with silk made for machine work, when you can drop into most any store and procure a silk made by M. Heminway & Sons' Silk Co., s/'ecially tivistid for hand sc-.vins;. You reply you did not know such a thing was manufactured. Suppose you get a sample 5c. spool next time your are out shopping, then tell your friends how nice it is. No kinks— won- derful strength. Don't forget the brand : -fc^'' HEMINWAY" LIST OF PROFESSIONAL TEACHERS OF SEWING Miss Alice F. Hooper, 15 West 129th Street, New York City- Graduate of Teacliers College Miss N. CoMSTOCK Carpenter, 216 West 136th Street, N. Y. City Terms : $2.50 a lesson for a class Miss Emma J. Fowler, 116 West 17th Street, New York City Graduate of Teachers College Terms: $2.50 to .^3.00 a lesson Miss Emily B. Bryan, 320 East 19th Street, New York City Licensed Teacher in Public Schools Terms: $1.50 a lesson Training of Large Classes a specialty. San.ple Books made to order, $5.00 Miss E. H. Wade, 112 AVest 129th Street, New York City Terms : $2.50 for classes ; $1.00 for private lesson A BOOK FOR ADULTS . . . BONNELL, silver & CO., 24 West Twenty-Second Street, New York, have just published a little book entitled "FRAGMENTS FROM FENELON," a collection of thoughts concerning education and to help teachers and others interested in the education of children. Among the topics treated are : ■"What is the Foundation of a Good Education ? '' '■ The Danger of Imitation." " Indirect Teaching." " The Use of Stories for Children." Price, 40 cents net; sent by mail for 43 cents in stamps. EWINQ SCHOOL MODELS, ordered now, will be ready for next season. For price=list, etc., address MISS MARY C. WOOD, Wappingers Falls, N. Y. Protection to Purchasers w We caution the public against purchasing imitations of obsolete forms of our machines. We l^eep up with the latest developments in the art, making nothing but the highest grade of product, and have achieved unqualified success in its sale ; hence many attempts at imitation, and the illegal use of our trade name. A Brass Medallion, of the elliptical form shown above, bears our regis- tered trade-mark, and is placed upon the head of every machine made by us. NONE GENUINE WITHOUT IT. SINGER SEWING-MACHINES ARE SOLD ONLY BY The Singer Manufacturing Co. OFFICES IN EVERY CITY IN THE WORLD. PRATT INSTITUTE. BROOKLYN, N V. Founded by Charles Pratt in 1887 for the promotion of Art, Science and Industry, comprises the following Departments : High School Fine Arts Domestic Art Domestic Science Library Kindergarten Museums Science and Technology DEPARTMENT OP DOMESTIC ART Normal Course of Two Years including instruction in Sewing, Dressmaking, Millinery, Drawing, Physical Culture, Psychology, Pedagogy, Normal Methods and Practice Teaching! Regular Courses in Sewing, Dressmaking, Millinery, Art Needlework and Physical Culture. Classes organized in September, December and March. Special Dressmakiag Course, nine months. Special Millinery and Sewing Courses, six months each. 'I'cachtrs sui>|ilieil to take charge of schools and classes. Sewing Model LJooks made to order. DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE Normal Course of Two Years. Instruction is given by means of lectures and recitations, supplemented by as much laboratory work as the best methods demand. General Courses, including a General Course in Domestic Science, Household Science, Emergencies, Home Nursing and Hygiene, Public Hygiene, Food Economics, INIarketing Lectures, Cookery, Preserving and Pickling, Laundry Work, Waitresses' Course. Food Museums and Charts. These museums consist of Blocks^ Bottles and Charts. Each museum as a whole is designed chiefly as a Sertes of Ohject Lessons^ in the Chemistry and Physicjlogy of Foods and Dietaries. Originally prepared by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, they can now be obtained of Pratt Institute only. Catalogues sent on application to FREDERIC B. PRATT, Secretary Cox Sons & Vinlng ' li^Eucharistic Offering 70 Fifth Avenue New York Church Vestments Cassocks Surplices Stoles Hoods Berettas Embroideries Silk Damasks Cloths, Ribbons Fringes Chinese Gold Thread Altar Linen CHOIR OUTFITS Imported Free of Duty SUCCESSORS TO COX SONS, BUCKLEY & CO. Spiritual instructions upon the Office of the Holy Communion together with helps for the carrying out of the same. By G. H. S. Walpole, S.T.D. "Better than the best of it, doctrinally and as a piece of literary work (and there is much in it so far as I have been able to examine it, which is very admirable in both these respects), ii the spirit which has presided over its con- struction and which breathes through every page that I have turned." — T/ie Bishi'p of Xeiv J 'ork. " I have gone over it very carefully and with great satisfaction. It has in it certain things which I have never seen before in any such manual, and which I think are most important and valuable." — The Bishop of Albany. i6nio, Cloth, Red Edges. Net, 50 Cents. Postage, 5 Cents. CrothersAKorth 246 Fourth Avenue Bet. 19th and 20th Sts., NEW YORK John R. Greason & Son Diamonds^ Gold Chains and Fine Jewelry Special Drawings and Estimates submitted, upon request, for Medals, Pins, Badges, etc., etc. J 82 Broadway, NEW YORK School of Domestic Science ana €l)h$tian (UorK UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE BOSTON YOUNG WOMEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION Department of Domestic Science and Arts This includes Normal Course for Teachers, also fits for Matrons. Department of Christian Work This includes Synthetical Study of the Bible, 'Interpretation, Doctrine, etc. Special course for V. W. C. A. Secretaries, also plain course in Cooking and Sewing. Regular Course, two years. Special Course, one year. Terms : $75 for day pupils ; $200 for resident pupils. TENTH YEAR OI'ENS OCTOBER I, 1S97. ADDRESS FOR CIRCULARS: Miss L. L. SHERMAN, Principal, = 52 Berlceley St., Boston, Mass. ...Sewing School Supplies... Square Papers (Gift 13, No. 205), 5x5 inches. Books for Mounting Children's Work for Folding Hems Hand Punches, with letter or figure, for at- Colored Strips for Teaching Cutting, No. 431 tendance or class cards Designs for Sewing Scissors, blunt or pointed Pricked Cards, 3^x5 inches Aluminum Thimbles Cards for Weaving, two sizes Metal Fasteners for sewed samples "We shall be glad to furnish estimates for anything- required for Sewing Schools J. W. SCHERMERHORN & CO. 3 East Fourteenth Street, NEW YORK Instructions for Sewing Classes... By L. T. Robinson, Directress oi' Sewing in the Industrial School of the Church of the Holy Communion, New Yokk 131110. S2 pages. Paper Cover. Fourth Thousand OPINIOA'S OF FROM/XEXT EDUC.-l TORS F'rom Dr. William T. Harris, United States Commissioner of Education, Washington, D. C.— " This is the book, I think, which should be in the hands of all teachers of sewing." Grace H. Dodge— "The simplest glance makes me realize what a valuable publication this will be." Walter L. Hervey, President Teachers College, New York— "It seems to me that your presentation of steps, ways and means, is clear and pedagogical." Mary Schenck Woolman. Instructor in Dept. of Domestic Science, Teachers College—'; I have advised my girls to provide themselves with copies of your book. I am sure that it will fill a felt want in sewing schools." Price, 10 Cents. Postage, 2 Cents. One Hundred Copies for $9.00 Supplied by the Author, MRS. L. T. ROBINSON New Brighton, Staten Island, New York J. DREICER & SON Jewelers GRAND UNION 292 FIFTH AVENUE SARATOGA NEW YORK HANDBOOK FOR SEWING SCHOOL TEACHERS An excellent manual of instructions with drawings and full direc- tions for teaching girls to sew. It is not only useful for teachers in sewing schools, but for parents who wish to teach their children how to sew. PRICE, 35 CENTS PUBLISHED BY THOMAS WHITTAKER 2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK Rochester Athenaeum and Mechanics Institute THE ROCHESTER ATHENAEUM INCORPORATED 183O TON'sni I D A TFD '^ THE MECHANICS INSTITUTE FOUNDED 1885 "■ ''"9' Department of Domestic Science COURSES OF STUDY Cookery, Sewing, Dressmaking, Laundry Work Physical Culture, Home Science, Millinery Department of Industrial and Fine Arts COURSES OF STUDY Freehand Drawing, Mechanical Drawing, Architectural Drawing, Designing Pen and Ink Drawing, Drawing from Life Painting in Oil and Water Colors China Decoration, Clay Modeling, Mathematics, Plumbing Electricity, Manual Training MORNING, AFTERNOON AND EVENING CLASSES For Catalogues address ROCHESTER ATHENAEUM AND MECHANICS INSTITUTE No. 38 South Washingrton Street, Rochester, N. V. 3nbu5trtal 5d?oo I JSi7VoUL,o„ 49 West Twentieth Street Household Embroidery (marking of linen, lace, etc.) will be executed by the Embroidery Class and their Teacher, Mme. Hedrig Muller, 43 West Sixtieth Street, New York City Orders should be sent to the Treasurer, Mrs. Wm. G. Gardner, 117 West Twenty=first Street, New York City PRINTING.... We make a specialty of Society and Church Printing of all kinds. We have an abun- dance of samples of work in this line////// THE LOTUS PRESS PRINTERS H\ West Twemy-third Street - NEW YORK The Buckingham Hotel FIFTH AVENUE and FIFTIETH STREET New York EUROPEAN PLAN CHARLES L. WETHERBEE Proprietor Xlhc Riverside Hssociation 259 CKcst 69th Street is a chartered body of residents of the City of Ne-w York, associated for the purpose of assisting the poor to better conditions. Departments of work in operation are : Public Baths, number given, J 896, 38,693. Kindergarten, 75 children enrolled. Free Circulating Library and Reading Room. Circulation, 1896, 19,077. Women's and Girls' Clubs, Boys' Club, and Penny Provident Fund. ^< SUPPORTED BY VOLUNTARY CONTRIBUTIONS UNSECTARIAN HARVEY E. FISK, President PETER W. McINDOE, Vice-President J. HEGEMAN FOSTER, Treasurer EUGENE E. ADAMS, Secretary JOHN F. HARROLD, Head Worker Miss LOUISE KAUFMAN, General Secretary LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Staineb (Blass anb /Iftosaic ESPECIAL ATTENTION IS GIVEN TO THE DESIGNING AND EXECUTION OF ARTISTIC MEMORIAL WINDOWS AND MURAL TABLETS : TO THOSE INTERESTED IN SUCH ART WORK A CORDIAL INVITATION IS EXTENDED TO VISIT OUR NEW STUDIOS TO EXAMINE WINDOWS, TABLETS, ETC., EITHER COMPLETED OR IN PROCESS OF EXECUTION j6KIi AA\B STUDIOS Nos. 23, 25 and 27 Sixth Avenue, New York Press of J J Little & Co , Aster Place, New York