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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
 
WATCHMAKERS' AND JEWELERS' 
 
 Practical Receipt Book 
 
 A WORKSHOP COMPANION. 
 
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 COMPRISING FULL AND PRACTICAL FORMULAE AND DIRECTIONS FOR 
 SOLDERS AND SOLDERING, CLEANING, PICKLING, POLISHING, COLOR- 
 ING, BRONZING, STAINING, CEMENTING, ETCHING, LACQUER- 
 ING, VARNISHING, AND GENERAL FINISHING OF METALS, 
 AS APPLIED TO THE WATCH AND JEWELRY TRADE. 
 TOGETHER WITH ALL THE IMPORTANT ALLOYS 
 USED BY THE TRADE AND MANY 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 COMPILED FROM PRIVATE FORMULAE. 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 GEO. K. HAZLITT & CO., Publishers. 
 
 1S92. 
 
 
COPYRIGHTED, 1892, 
 
 BY 
 
 GEO. K HAZLITT &r CO. 
 
WATCHMAKERS' AND JEWELERS' 
 
 Practical Receipt Book. 
 
 CEMENTS. 
 
 Amber Cement. 
 
 i . Moisten the broken edges of the amber with a solu- 
 tion of potash and press them together and keep in this 
 position until dry. 
 
 2. Heat slightly the broken surfaces, apply a small por- 
 tion of shellac to the warmed surface and press closely 
 together. After all is dry remove the superfluous cement 
 by means of a sharp knife and polish with a flannel rag 
 and oil. 
 
 3. Heat the broken surfaces, apply boiled linseed oil 
 and press firmly together until dry. 
 
 4. Mastic melted in boiled linseed oil and applied to the 
 broken parts is said to make a perfect joint. 
 
 Jeweler's Armenian Cement. 
 
 1. Melt one part of thick isinglass glue, mix with one 
 part of thick mastic varnish and keep in a well corked 
 bottle. To use, heat in hot water. 
 
 2. Soak isinglass in water and dissolve in 2 oz. of spirit 
 to form a thick paste; dissolve 10 gr. of pale gum 
 ammoniac in this by rubbing well together. Add to this 
 
4 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 six large tears of gum mastic dissolved in the smallest 
 possible quantity of alcohol. 
 
 3. Dissolve six pieces of gum mastic the size of a pea 
 in as much spirits of wine as will suffice to render it liquid. 
 Dissolve two oz. of isinglass in water, pour off the super- 
 fluous liquor and dissolve in rum, adding 10 gr. of gum 
 ammoniac, which must be thoroughly incorporated by rub- 
 bing in with the liquid until dissolved. Mix this with the 
 gum mastic, using heat. Put up in a closely stoppered 
 bottle and when about to use heat the bottle in hot water. 
 This cement is said to be very effective in uniting all sub- 
 stances, even glass to polished steel. 
 
 4. Keller's Armenian cement. Soak for twenty-four 
 hours ^oz. of isinglass in 40Z. of water; evaporated in a 
 water bath to 2 oz; add 2 oz. alcohol and strain through 
 a linen cloth. Form' a solution of % oz. best mastic and 
 2 oz. alcohol and mix while warm with the above. Add 
 to this 1 drm. gum ammoniac and mix until thoroughly 
 incorporated. Avoid the lo.ss of the spirit by evaporation 
 as much as possible. 
 
 5. Ure's Armenian cement. Water 6 oz., isinglass ioz; 
 boil to 3 oz., and add i}4 oz.; rectified alcohol, boil for a 
 minute or two, strain and add while hot, first a milky 
 emulsion of ammoniac, }4oz., then 5 drm. tincture of 
 mastic. 
 
 Acid Proof Cement. 
 
 1. Quicklime and linseed oil mixed to a stiff paste 
 forms a hard cement which resists both acid and heat. 
 
 2. India rubber melted by gentle heat is mixed with 
 from 6 to 8 per cent, by weight, of tallow, stirring well 
 the while; dry slacked lime is now added until the mass 
 assumes the consistency of a thick paste ; now add 20 per 
 cent, of red lead which will make it harden and dry. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 5 
 
 3. Mix a concentrated solution of silicate of soda with 
 powdered glass to form a paste. 
 
 4. Melt 25 grm. of old gutta percha, previously reduced 
 to shreds, and mix with 75 grms. of powdered pumice 
 and then add 150 grms. of Burgundy pitch. This cement 
 will be found useful for lining troughs used in galvanop- 
 lastic manipulations and will resist sulphate of copper 
 baths but not cyanides. 
 
 5. Melt one part India rubber with two parts lin- 
 seed oil; add sufficient white bolus for consistency. 
 Neither muriatic nor nitric acid attack it ; it softens a little 
 in heat, and its surface does not dry easily; which is 
 produced by adding one-fifth part of litharge. 
 
 6. Sulphur 100 parts, resin 2 parts, tallow 2 parts 
 Melt and add sifted ground glass until brought to the 
 proper consistency. 
 
 Alabaster Cement. 
 
 1 . Finely powdered plaster of Paris made into a paste 
 with water. This cement may be used to join and to §t 
 together pieces of alabaster or marble, or to mend broken 
 plaster figures. 
 
 2. Melt rosin, or equal parts of yellow rosin and bees- 
 wax, then stir in half as much finely powdered plaster of 
 Paris. This cement is used to join alabaster, marble, and 
 other similar substances that will bear heating. 
 
 3. Melt alum and dip the fractured faces into it; then 
 put them together as quickly as possible. Remove the 
 exuding mass with a knife. 
 
 4. To y 2 pint skimmed milk add x / 2 pint vinegar and 
 mix the curd with the white of five eggs well beaten, and 
 sufficient powdered quick-lime sifted in, stirring constantly, 
 to form a thick paste. 
 
6 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 5. Prepare a thin paste by boiling rice to a pulp or 
 using rice flour and hot water and thicken this paste with 
 finely powdered quick-lime. Slightly heat the fractured 
 surfaces, apply and place in a warm spot until dry. 
 
 Cement for Leather. 
 
 1. Take equal parts of isinglass and glue and add 
 enough water to cover. Let this soak for ten hours 
 and then bring to a boil and add pure tannin until the 
 mixture becomes stringy or like the white of eggs. 
 Rough up the surfaces of the leather to be united and 
 apply the mixture hot to them. Place the joint under 
 pressure of heavy weights for a few hours and it will be 
 found that a joint has been made as strong as the leather 
 itself. This will be found to be an excellent cement for 
 joining flat lathe belts, draw skins, etc. 
 
 2. Shred or cut into small pieces pure India rubber. 
 Select a wide mouthed bottle with glass stopper and fill 
 about one-tenth full of the shreds and fill the bottle with 
 pure benzine, which is free from all oil. Allow the mix- 
 ture to stand until the benzine has thoroughly cut or dis- 
 solved the rubber. If too thin, add rubber and if too 
 thick, benzine. This cement will be found excellent for 
 fastening small belts or joining other pieces of leather or 
 rubber. 
 
 Cement for Bisque Figures. 
 
 Carefully wash and dry several oyster shells, burn well, 
 slack in the air and reduce to a fine powder in a mortar. 
 Pass through a fine sieve and mix with the white of egg. 
 Clean thoroughly the fractured surfaces, heat slightly and 
 apply the cement keeping the parts well pressed together 
 for a few minutes until dry. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 7 
 
 Label Cement. 
 
 i. Gum Arabic 2 oz., gum tragacanth x / 2 oz., water 
 y 2 pint. Stir until thoroughly dissolved, then strain and 
 add 7 grains thymol, 2 oz. glycerine and water to make 
 one pint. 
 
 2. Half fill a wide-mouthed glass stoppered bottle 
 with acetic acid and add isinglass until it forms a thick 
 paste, which it will in a few hours. This cement is useful 
 for attaching labels to tin or glass, which it does very 
 effectually. 
 
 3. Alcohol 95 per cent. 10 oz., ordinary cooking gela- 
 tine 1 oz., glycerine 1 oz. The gelatine should be pre- 
 viously soaked in cold water for an hour and the super- 
 fluous moisture squeezed out. Preserve in wide-mouthed 
 glass-stoppered bottle. This cement is also valuable for 
 mounting photographs, and will not discolor or turn 
 yellow. 
 
 4. One or two drops of glycerine added to a small 
 bottle of mucilage is said to prevent the mucilage drying 
 too hard, and labels on glass can be kept firmly in place 
 \v4th it. 
 
 Coral Cement. 
 
 Warm coral very carefully, and with a pencil brush 
 cover the crack with watch oil; when cool the seam will 
 not show, 
 
 Cement for Acid Bottles. 
 
 Melt 2 parts of tallow over a sand or water bath, and 
 gradually add 30 parts of pure rubber shredded up. 
 After all is thoroughly melted add two parts of slacked 
 lime. 
 
8 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 Glass and Metal Cement. 
 
 Brass letters, and other articles of a like nature, may 
 be securely fastened on glass windows with the follow- 
 ing: 
 
 i. Litharge 2 parts, white lead 1 part, boiled linseed 
 oil 3 parts, gum copal 1 part. Mixed just before using. 
 This forms a quickly-drying and secure cement. 
 
 2. To 16 parts of copal varnish add 2 parts of turpen- 
 tine, 5 parts of drying oil, 5 parts of liquid glue and 10 
 parts stucco. 
 
 3. Knead together rosin soap with half the quantity of 
 zinc white. 
 
 Gutta Percha Cement. 
 
 Resin 2 parts, gutta percha 4 parts and tar 2 parts. 
 Heat in water bath and apply warm. This cement is said 
 to make a perfect joint for gutta percha. 
 
 Cutlery Cements. 
 
 These cements will be found very effective for fasten- 
 ing blades of knives into ivory or pearl handles. Fill the 
 cavity in the handle with the cement, heat the tang of 
 the blade, crowd it in and remove the superfluous 
 cement. 
 
 1. Melt together 5 parts pitch, 1 part hard tallow and 
 1 part wood ashes. 
 
 2. Melt4 parts resin and 1 part beeswax and stir in 1 
 part of sifted brick dust. 
 
 3. Melt together 4 lbs. resin and 1 lb. beeswax and stir 
 in 1 lb. whiting. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Q 
 
 Cements for Ivory. 
 
 i. Mix together finely powdered quicklime and white 
 of egg. Apply sparingly, clamp firmly and lay aside for 
 24 hours. 
 
 2. Dissolve in 30 parts of water 2 parts of white glue 
 and 1 part isinglass. Strain and evaporate to 6 parts. 
 Add a small piece of gum mastic previously dissolved in 
 alcohol and 1 part of zinc white. 
 
 Cements for China, Porcelain and Glass. 
 
 1. In 64 parts of chloroform dissolve 1 part of India 
 rubber and then add from 14 to 20 parts of gum mastic 
 in powder . Allow the whole to dissolve for two days, 
 shaking occasionally Preserve in air-tight bottles. 
 
 2. Melt together 4 parts of Burgundy pitch, 6 parts 
 sulphur, 2 parts elemi, 1 part shellac and 6 parts of finely 
 powdered kaolin. The fractured surfaces should be 
 thoroughly cleansed and heated before applying cement. 
 
 Enamel Dial Cements. 
 
 1. Gum copal 50 parts, damar 50 parts, Venice 
 turpentine 55 parts, zinc white 30 parts, ultramarine 1 to 
 2 parts. Apply hot and after allowing to cool remove 
 the superfluous cement with a sharp knife and polish 
 with a burnisher and beeswax. This will be found an 
 excellent cement for repairing chipped enamelled dials, 
 either for clocks or watches. 
 
 2. Scrape some pure white wax, mix it with equal parts 
 of zinc white, melt the mixture over a spirit lamp, and let 
 it cool. For use, warm the dial plate slightly and press 
 the cold cement into the defective place. The cement 
 adheres very firmly and by scraping with a sharp knife 
 acquires a white and lustrous surface. In case the 
 
IO WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 cement should be too hard add some wax, and if too soft 
 some zinc white. Cleanliness in the manipulation and 
 moderate heating in mixing are the principal points and 
 contribute essentially to the snow white color of the 
 cement. 
 
 Cement for Emery Wheels and Sticks. 
 
 Melt together equal parts of white resin and shellac. 
 When thoroughly melted add an equal amout of carbolic 
 acid in crystals. 
 
 Cements for Celluloid. 
 
 i. In 2 parts spirits of camphor, dissolve 2 parts shellac 
 and add to this 7 parts strong alcohol. Apply warm, 
 but do not bring the celluloid with fire as it is very 
 inflamable. 
 
 2. Dissolve finely scraped celluloid in 90 per cent, 
 spirits of wine. Slightly warm it in water bath before 
 applying. 
 
 Cement for Horn and Bone. 
 
 Dissolve 5 parts of mastic in 2 parts of turpentine and 
 and 6 parts linseed oil. This cement will be found use- 
 ful for mending horn and bone jewelry, knife handles, 
 combs, etc. 
 
 Cement for Jet. 
 
 Broken crosses, brooches, ear rings, etc., of jet may be 
 repaired with shellac which has previously been smoked 
 or mixed with alcohol and lamp black to give it a black 
 color like the article. The cement should be applied 
 sparingly and the edges warmed before applying. 
 
 Cement for Meerschaum. 
 
 A solution of water glass, or silicate of soda and casein 
 is prepared to which is added, by stiring into it, a little 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. II 
 
 calcined magnesia. This cement must be used at once. 
 Casein is prepared by allowing well skimmed milk to 
 stand until it curdles, when the casein is filtered out and 
 washed on a paper filter. To simplify the above, fresh 
 cheese may be boiled in water and mixed with slacked 
 lime and ashes, using 10 parts cheese, 20 parts water, 2 
 parts lime and 2 parts wood ashes. The broken parts 
 should be bound together after cementing and set aside 
 for 24 hours. 
 
 Cement for Hard Rubber. 
 
 This cement will be found useful for mending hard 
 rubber jewelry, combs, etc. Dissolve bleached gutta 
 percha in carbon bisulphide. Apply and when dry brush 
 over with carbon bisulphide in which sulphur has been 
 dissolved. 
 
 Opticians' Cements. 
 
 1. Resin 15 oz., and beeswax 1 oz., melted together. 
 Take 4 oz. of whiting in an iron spoon and bring it to 
 a red heat. Allow it to cool partially and while still 
 warm add it to the above, stirring in well. 
 
 2. Fill a wide mouthed bottle y z full of shellac and 
 cover it with rectified spirit of wood naphtha. Allow 
 it to stand until it assumes a jelly. This cement and 
 number 1 will be found valuable for holding glasses 
 while grinding and polishing. 
 
 Engraver's Cement. 
 Resin, 1 part; brick dust, 1 part; mix with heat. 
 
 Fireproof Cement. 
 A very tenacious and fire-proof cement for metals is 
 said to be made by mixing pulverized asbestos with 
 waterglass, to be had in any drug store; it is said to be 
 steam tight, and resist any temperature. 
 
12 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 Metal Cement. 
 
 Take Plaster of Paris, and mix it to proper thickness 
 by using water containing about one-fourth of gum Arabic. 
 This cement is excellent for metal exposed to contact with 
 alcohol. 
 
 Strong Cement. 
 
 Mix some finely-powdered rice with cold water, so as 
 to form a soft paste. Add boiling water, and finally boil 
 the mixture in a pan for one or two minutes. A strong 
 cement is thus obtained of a white color, which can be 
 used for many purposes. 
 
 Gold and Silver Colored Cement. 
 
 A cement for filling hollow gold and silver articles con- 
 sists of 60 parts shellac, 10 parts Venetian turpentine, and 
 3 parts gold bronze, or silver bronze, as the case may be. 
 The shellac is melted first, the turpentine is then added, 
 and finally, with constant stirring, the gold or silver 
 bronze. 
 
 Tortoise Shell Cement. 
 
 1. Shellac, 45 parts; mastic, 15 parts; spirits of wine, 
 90 per cent., 175 parts; and turpentine, 3 parts. This 
 cement will join broken tortoise shell jewelry, knife 
 handles, combs, cigar holders, etc., in a very neat manner 
 and the joint will be so strong that it will be easier to 
 break the material than the joint. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 1 3 
 
 ENAMELS. 
 
 Enamel Fluxes for Colored Enamels. 
 
 The ingredients are pounded to a fine powder in a 
 stone mortar and then placed in a heated crucible. 
 
 To prepare the fluxes, a suitable furnace is used, which 
 must be entirely free from rust and lined up to the cover 
 with fire bricks set in clay so that only the opening for 
 the door remains free. Through a hole in the center of 
 the cover, which is also provided with a cover, the ingre- 
 dients in the crucible are stored with an iron rod. To 
 secure the crucible, a piece of brick is laid upon the grate. 
 The firing is done either with charcoal alone, or with 
 charcoal mixed with coke. The following are the most 
 important fluxes: 
 
 1. Fuse 8 parts of minium, i^ parts of borax, 2 of 
 ground flint and 6 of flint glass. 
 
 2. Fuse 10 parts of flint glass, 1 of white arsenic and 
 1 of saltpetre. 
 
 3. Fuse 1 part of minium and 3 of flint glass. 
 
 4. Fuse 9^ parts of minium, 5^ of borax and 8 of 
 flint glass. 
 
 5. Fuse 6 parts of flint glass, 7 of the flux prepared 
 according to No. 2, and 8 of minium. 
 
 6. Fuse 6 parts of the flux prepared according to 
 No. 4, with 1 of colcothar. 
 
 7. Fuse 6 parts of minium, 4 of borax and 2 of pow- 
 dered flint. 
 
1 4 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 The fluxes prepared as above are cooled off in water, 
 then dried and finally powdered in a stone mortar. 
 
 Brown Enamel. 
 
 Fuse together S}4 parts of minium, 4 of pulverized 
 flint, and 2 y 2 of pyrolusite, triturate, 1 y 2 parts of this 
 mixture with 1 part of flux 4, and 1^2 parts of iron filings. 
 
 Green Enamel. 
 
 Prepare green frit by fusing together 1 ]/ 2 parts of 
 green pot metal glass, 3 of pulverized flint, 7^2 of borax, 
 i% of green oxide of copper, 7^2 of minium and 3 of 
 flux 1. Pound the mixture to fine powder in a stone 
 mortar. Triturate with water 5 parts of this frit, }4 of 
 flux 2 and 2^ of flux 6. 
 
 Light Red Enamel. 
 
 Triturate with water 1 j4 parts of white lead, 1 part of 
 red sulphate of iron and 3 of flux 1. 
 
 Dark Red Enamel. 
 
 Triturate with water 1 part of brown sulphate of iron, 
 and 2^ of flux 7. 
 
 Opaque White Enamel. 
 
 Calcine in a crucible 1 part of buck's horn shavings 
 until they are entirely white, and rub them to a paste 
 with 1 part of flux 1. Triturate with water 1 part of 
 Venetian white enamel and 1 of flux No. 8, and fuse the 
 two mixtures together. 
 
 White Enamel. 
 
 For white enamel all ingredients must be perfectly 
 free from foreign admixture as any impurities will inter- 
 fere with the color. Washed antimony 1 part, fine glass, 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 1 5 
 
 perfectly free from lead, 3 parts; mix, melt and pour the 
 fused mass into clean water; dry and repeat as before 
 until a perfectly uniform color is obtained. When well 
 managed the color will rival the opal. 
 
 Violet Enamel. 
 
 Saline or alkaline frits or fluxes colored with small 
 quantities of peroxide of manganese. The color depends 
 on the complete oxidization of the metal and care should 
 therefore be taken not to give contact with any substance 
 in the flux that will abstract the oxygen. 
 
 Rose Colored Enamel. 
 
 Purple enamel or its constituents, 3 parts, flux 90 parts. 
 Mix and add silver leaf or oxide of silver one part or less, 
 according to shade desired. 
 
 Purple Enamel. 
 
 1. Flux, colored with oxide of gold, purple precipitate 
 of cassius, or peroxide of manganese. 
 
 2. Sulphur, niter, vitriol, antimony, oxide of tin, of each 
 1 pound, red lead 60 pounds, mix, fuse, cool and powder, 
 add rose copper, 19 oz., zaffre 1 oz., crocus martis, \y 2 
 oz., borax, 3 oz., 1 lb. of a compound, formed of gold, 
 silver and mercury. Fuse, stirring constantly with a 
 copper rod, place in crucibles and place in reverberating 
 furnace 24 hours. 
 
 Olive Enamel. 
 Good blue enamel 2 parts, black and yellow enamel, of 
 1 part each. Mix. 
 
 Blue Enamel. 
 1. Thoroughly powder and mix 4 parts of black oxide 
 of cobalt, 13 of saltpetre, and 9 of flint. Fuse thoroughly 
 over a charcoal or coke fire, pulverize, wash in cold 
 water, and triturate 1 part of this powder with one of flux 
 5, given above. 
 
1 6 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 2. Fuse together i part of black oxide of cobalt and i 
 of borax. Melt over a good fire 2 parts of this, x / 2 part 
 of minium and 10 of blue pot metal glass. 
 
 Yellow Enamel. 
 
 1. Mix in a stone mortar 8 parts of minium, 1 of white 
 oxide of tin and 1 of antimony oxide. Bring to a red heat 
 in a crucible, allow to cool off and mix 1 part of this with 
 ^y 2 parts of flux 4 to a paste with water.' 
 
 2. White oxide of antimony, alum and sal ammoniac, 
 each 1 part, pure carbonate of lead 1 to 3 parts, according 
 to shade desired. Powder, mix and expose to heat suf- 
 ficient to fuse the sal ammoniac very bright. 
 
 3. Pure oxide of silver added to the metallic fluxes. If 
 a thin film of oxide of silver be spread over the surface 
 of the enamel to be colored, exposed to a moderate heat, 
 withdrawn and the film of reduced silver on the surface 
 removed, the under part will be found a fine yellow. 
 
 Orange Enamel. 
 
 1. Red lead 12 parts, red sulphate of iron and oxide of 
 antimony, each one part, flint powder 3 parts. Calcine, 
 powder, and melt with flux 50 parts. 
 
 2. Red lead 12 parts, oxide of antimony 4 parts, flint 
 powder 3 parts, red sulphate of iron 1 part. Calcine, then 
 add flux 5 parts to every 5 parts of this mixture. 
 
 3. Thoroughly mix 12 parts of minium, 4 of antimony 
 oxide, 3 of pulverized flint and 1 of red sulphate of iron, 
 and heat without fusing. Triturate with water 1 part of 
 this and 2^ of flux 7. 
 
 Enamels for Watch Dials. 
 
 The dials are prepared with a backingof sheet copper 
 having raised edges to receive the enamel in powder, 
 which is fused. After cooling, the lettering and figuring 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 1 7 
 
 are printed on the plate with soft black enamel by trans- 
 ferring. The dial is again placed in a muffle to fuse the 
 enamel of the lettering or figuring. The enamel used is 
 composed of white lead, arsenic, flint glass, saltpetre, borax 
 and ground flint reduced to powder, fused and formed 
 into cakes. 
 
 Phosphorescent Enamel. 
 
 Commercial phosphorescent paint in powder is inti- 
 mately mixed with 2 /^ of its weight of very finely pulver- 
 ized fluor spar or cryolite and one-fifth of calcium borate. 
 The mixture is made into a paste with water, and applied 
 in a uniform layer to the articles to be enameled by means 
 of a brush. They are then burnt in the usual manner. 
 
 Fine Black Enamel. 
 
 Triturate with water i part of black oxide of copper 
 and 2 of flux 4. 
 
 Niello. 
 
 A metallic enamel composed of 48 parts of flowers of. 
 sulphur, 9 of pure copper, 9 of pure lead, 4 of fine silver 
 and two of borax. First melt the silver, then add the 
 copper and then the lead, stirring with a charcoal stick. 
 Prepare a crucible,. into which place the sulphur and upon 
 the top of which pour the molten metal, and continue to 
 fuse a few minutes. Pour the mass over brushwood into 
 water to form into granules. Collect the granules, dry 
 in the air and pulverize in a mortar. Niello is used as fol- 
 lows: the design is engraved on the metal to be orna- 
 mented and the powder is mixed with spirit of sal am- 
 moniac to a paste, and applied by rubbing into the lines 
 in the metal which has previously been heated. The 
 superfluous paste is renewed by filing and the surface 
 stoned and polished. 
 
1 8 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 To Take Enamel Out of Work. 
 
 Take fluor spar, and pound it fine; use enough of the 
 powder to cover well the article ; then take a lead cup and 
 pour on sufficient vitriol to make a thin liquid. Boil the 
 article in this and the enamel will be removed. Be very 
 careful and let the fumes pass up chimney, as they are 
 injurious. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 BRONZING, STAINING AND COLOR- 
 ING OF METALS. 
 
 Green Bronze for Brass. 
 
 i. Mix 80 parts strong vinegar, 1 of mineral green, 1 
 of red umber, 1 of sal ammoniac, 1 of gum Arabic, 1 of 
 green vitriol, and add 4 of Avignon berries (fruit of 
 Rhantus Infect orius). Boil the mixture and strain when 
 cold. Cleanse the articles with weak nitric acid, rinse 
 and apply the fluid with a brush. If not dark enough 
 heat the article to about 200 , and then give a coat of 
 lamp black mixed with alcohol. Finish with lacquer or 
 spirit varnish. 
 
 2. Dissolve 8}4 ounces of copper in 1 ounce nitric 
 acid; add 10^ fluid drams vinegar, 3^ drams sal- 
 ammoniac, 6% drams aqua ammonia. Put the liquid in 
 a loosely corked bottle, and stand in a warm place for a 
 few days. After applying it to the articles, dry by gentle 
 heat and finish with linseed oil varnish, also dried by heat. 
 
 Violet on Brass. 
 
 Heat the metal to about the boiling point, plunge it in 
 a solution of chloride of antimony for an instant and rub 
 with a stick covered with cotton. 
 
 Orange on Brass. 
 
 Polish the article and plunge it for a few minutes in a 
 warm neutral solution of copper acetate. 
 
20 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS' 
 
 Green on Brass. 
 
 i. Wash the article with dilute acetic acid and expose 
 to the fumes of strong aqua ammonia, Repeat until the 
 desired shade is obtained. 
 
 2. Immerse in a solution of i part perchloride of iron 
 in 2 parts of water until the desired shade is assumed. 
 
 3. Boil in a strong solution of nitrate of copper. 
 Wash, dry, burnish and lacquer all the above. 
 
 Steel Gray on Brass. 
 
 Antimoniac sulphide and fine iron filings, 1 part of each ; 
 hydrochloric acid 3 parts ; water 4 parts. 
 
 Blue on Brass or Copper. 
 
 Cleanse the article thoroughly by boiling in potash lye 
 and treat it with white wine vinegar; wipe and dry the 
 surface thoroughly and rub with a linen rag, moistened 
 with hydrochloric acid; let it stand for a quarter of an 
 hour, then heat the article over a sand bottle until it 
 assumes the desired shade. 
 
 Dead Black on Brass. 
 
 Mix in a glass bottle 2 parts of hydrochloric acid and 1 
 part of nitric acid; add 35 grains of platinum wire or foil, 
 and place on a sand bath until the platinum is dissolved. 
 Apply by dipping, or with a brush. This is the finish 
 used on optical instruments. 
 
 Black Bronze for Brass. 
 
 Brush the brass with a dilute solution of nitrate of 
 mercury, and then several times with a solution of liver 
 of sulphur. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 21 
 
 To Frost Watch Caps and Plates. 
 
 Take 2^ parts nitric acid, and 2 parts muriatic acid, 
 full strength. Dip in the articles for a few seconds, rinse 
 in clear water, scratchbrush with a circular motion, then 
 gild. 
 
 To Frost Watch Plates. 
 
 Watch plates are frosted by means of fine brass wire 
 scratch brushes fixed in a lathe, and made to revolve at 
 great speed, the end of the wire brushes striking the 
 plate producing a beautiful appearance ; or, sink that part 
 of the movement to be frosted for a short time into a 
 mixture of nitric acid, muriatic acid and table salt, 1 ounce 
 of each. On removing from the acid, place it in a shal- 
 low vessel containing enough sour beer to nearly cover 
 it, then with a fine scratch brush scour thoroughly, letting 
 it remain under the beer during the operation. Then 
 wash off, first in pure water and then in alcohol. Gild 
 or silver in accordance with any of the well known methods. 
 
 To Frost Silver. 
 
 1. Silver goods may be frosted and whitened by pre- 
 ing a pickle of sulphuric acid 1 dram, water 4 ounces; 
 heat and immerse the silver articles until frosted as desired ; 
 then wash off clean, and dry with a soft linen cloth, or in 
 fine clean sawdust. For whitening only, a smaller quan- 
 tity of acid may be employed. 
 
 2. The article has to be carefully annealed either in a 
 charcoal fire or with a blow pipe before a gas flame, which 
 will oxidize the alloy on the surface, and also destroy all 
 dirt and greasy substances adhering to it, and then boiled 
 in a copper pan containing a solution of dilute sulphuric 
 acid — of 1 part of acid to about 30 parts of water. The 
 article is then placed in a vessel containing clean water, 
 and scratch-brushed or scoured with fine sand, after which 
 
22 WATCHxMAKERS, AND JEWELERS 
 
 the annealing and boiling-out is repeated, which will in 
 almost all cases be sufficient to produce the desired result. 
 If a very delicate dead surface such as watch dials, etc., 
 is required, the article is, before the second annealing, 
 covered with a pasty solution of potash and water, and 
 immediately after the annealing plunged in clean water, 
 and then boiled out in either sulphuric acid solution, or a 
 solution of i part cream tartar and 2 parts common salt to 
 about 30 parts of water. If the article is of a low quality 
 of silver, it is well to add some silver solution, such as is 
 used for silvering, to the second boiling-out solution. If 
 the article is very inferior silver, the finishing will have to 
 be given by immersing it in contact with a strip of zinc 
 in a silver solution. 
 
 To Frost Polished Silver. 
 
 Dissolve Yv oz. cyanide of potasium in 4 oz. water, 
 apply with a brush, holding the article with lancewood 
 or boxwood pliers. Cyanides are very poisonous and 
 should be used with care. 
 
 Silvering Copper and Brass. 
 
 Mix 3 parts of chloride of silver with 20 parts finely 
 pulverized cream of tartar, and 15 parts culinary salt. 
 Add water in sufficient quantity, and stir until the mixture 
 forms a paste, with which cover the surface to be silvered 
 by means of blotting paper. The surface is then rubbed 
 with a rag and powdered lime, washed, and rubbed with 
 a piece of soft cloth. The deposited film is extremely 
 thin. 
 
 Silver Plating. 
 
 For rapid silver plating, prepare a powder of 3 parts 
 of chloride of silver, 20 parts carefully pulverized cream 
 of tartar, and 15 parts pulverized cooking salt; mix it 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 23 
 
 into a thin paste with water, and rub it upon the well- 
 cleaned metallic surface with blotting paper. After you 
 are certain that all parts of the article have been touched 
 alike, rub it with very fine chalk powder or dust upon 
 wadding or other soft cloth. Wash with clean water and 
 dry with a cloth. 
 
 Silver-Plating Fluid. 
 
 Dissolve 1 oz. nitrate of silver, in crystals, in 12 oz. 
 soft water; then dissolve in the water 2 oz. cyanide of 
 potash, shake the whole together, and let it stand until it 
 becomes clear. Have ready some half-ounce vials, and 
 fill half full with Paris white, or fine whiting, and then 
 fill up the bottles with the liquid, and it is ready for use. 
 The whiting does not increase the coating power, it only 
 helps to clean the article, and save the silver fluid, by half 
 filling the bottles. 
 
 Simple Method for Silver Plating. 
 The process consists in exposing the article, which has 
 previously been well cleansed with a potash solution and 
 dilute hydrochloric acid, to the operation of a silver bath, 
 which is prepared in the following manner : Form a solu- 
 tion of 32 grams (1 oz., 13.8 grains) nitrate of silver, 20 
 grams silver (12 dwts., 20.6 grains) in 60 (1 oz., 18 dwts., 
 13.9 grains) grams nitric acid. The silver is precipitated as 
 silver oxide with a solution of 20 grams solid caustic 
 potash in 50 grams (1 oz., 12 dwts.$ 3.6 grains) distilled 
 water, carefully washed, and the precipitate taken up by 
 a solution of 100 grams (3 oz., 4 dwts., 7.2 grains) cyanide 
 of potassium in 500 grams distilled water. The fluid, 
 distilled through paper, is finally diluted with distilled 
 water, to 2 liters (4^ pints). The thus prepared silver 
 bath is gently warmed in the water bath, and the article 
 to be silver plated laid in it and kept in motion for a few 
 
24 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 minutes, and after taking out it is dried in sawdust, and 
 then polished with Vienna chalk for giving luster. 
 
 Silvering Receipt. 
 
 Care must be taken that the pieces which are dipped 
 in the metal bath be treated before in the ordinary man- 
 ner in a potash solution and dilute hydrochloric acid. The 
 silver bath is made with a solution of 4 ounces' lunar 
 caustic (equal to a solution 2^ ounces silver in 7^ 
 ounces nitric acid); the silver of this solution is precipi- 
 tated as oxide of silver by the addition of a solution 
 of 2^ ounces of caustic potash in 6]/ 2 ounces distilled 
 water; and the precipitate, after being washed, is added 
 to a solution of 12^ ounces of cyanide of potassium 
 in one quart of water. This solution is then filtered and 
 water added to bring it to 4 quarts. In this solution, 
 which is heated on the water bath, the pieces that are to 
 to be silvered are left for a few minutes. Being agitated, 
 they are taken out, and put to dry in fine sawdust and 
 then polished. 
 
 Silvering Small Iron Articles. 
 
 The small iron articles are suspended in dilute sulphuric 
 acid until the iron shows a bright clean surface. After 
 rinsing in pure water, they are placed in a bath of a 
 mixed solution of sulphate of zinc, sulphate of copper and 
 cyanide of potassium, and there remain until they receive 
 a bright coating of brass. Lastly they are transferred 
 to a bath of nitrate of silver, cyanide of potassium, and 
 sulphate of soda, in which they quickly receive a coating 
 of silver. 
 
 Cold Silvering of Metal. 
 
 Mix 1 part of chloride of silver with 3 parts of pearl- 
 ash, T.y 2 parts common salt, and 1 part whiting; and 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 25 
 
 well rub the mixture on the surface of brass or copper 
 previously well cleaned, by means of a piece of soft 
 leather, or a cork moistened with water and dipped in 
 the powder. When properly silvered, the metal should 
 be well washed in hot water, slightly alkalized, then 
 wiped dry. 
 
 Gold Tinge to Silver. 
 
 A bright gold tinge may be given to silver by steeping 
 it for a suitable length of time in a weak solution of sul- 
 phuric acid and water, strongly impregnated with iron 
 rust. 
 
 Imitation of Antique Silver. 
 
 The article is dipped in a bath of water containing 
 about 10 per cent, of sulphide of ammonium, and then 
 scratch-brushed with a brush made of glass threads or 
 bristles. When afterward burnished with an agate 
 tool its surface becomes a beautiful dark brown color. 
 
 Oxidizing Silverware. 
 
 Sal-ammoniac, 2 parts; sulphate of copper, 2 parts; 
 saltpeter, 1 part. Reduce these ingredients to a fine 
 powder, and dissolve it in a little acetic acid. If the article 
 is to be entirely oxidized, it may be dipped for a short 
 time in the boiling mixture; if only in parts, it may be 
 applied with a camel-hair pencil, the article and the mix- 
 ture both being warmed before using. 
 
 Oxidizing Silver. 
 
 There are two distinct shades in use, one produced by 
 chloride, which has a brownish tint, and the other by sul- 
 phur, which has a bluish-black tint. To produce the 
 former it is only necessary to work the article with a solu- 
 tion of sal-ammoniac; a much more beautiful tint, how- 
 ever, may obtained by employing a solution composed of 
 
16 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 equal parts of sulphate of copper and sal-ammoniac in 
 vinegar. The fine black tint may be produced by a 
 slightly warm solution of sulphate of potassium or sodium. 
 
 Oxidizing Silver Brown-black. 
 
 Place the articles in a solution of equal parts of sal- 
 ammoniac and blue vitriol in vinegar until the desired 
 shade is obtained. Then rinse, dry and polish. 
 
 Oxidizing Silver Blue-black. 
 
 Place the articles in a solution of liver of sulphur 
 diluted with spirits of sal-ammoniac. Allow to remain 
 until sufficiently discolored, then wash, dry and polish. 
 
 Pink Tint on Silver. 
 
 Dip the cleaned article for a few seconds in a hot 
 solution of chloride of copper; then rinse and dry, or dip 
 in 90 per cent, alcohol and ignite the alcohol. 
 
 Dead White on Silver Articles. 
 
 Heat the article to a cherry-red or a dull red heat, and 
 allow it to cool, then place it in a pickle of 5 parts sul- 
 phuric acid to 100 parts of water, and allow it to remain 
 for an hour or two. If the surface is not right, rinse 
 in cold water, and repeat the heating and pickling opera- 
 tion as before. This removes the copper from the 
 surface of the article, leaving pure silver on the surface. 
 When sufficiently whitened, remove from the pickle, 
 well rinse in pure hot water, and place in warm box- 
 wood sawdust. 
 
 To Whiten Silver Watch Dials. 
 
 Flatten a piece of charcoal by rubbing it on a flat stone; 
 on this place the dial, face upward ; apply a gentle heat 
 carefully with a blowpipe, allowing the flame to play all 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 27 
 
 over the surface of the dial without touching it, so as to 
 thoroughly heat without warping the dial. Then pickle 
 and rinse, using acid enough to make the water very tart, 
 and immersing but for a few seconds. Silver dials may 
 also be annealed by heating them red hot on a flat piece 
 of copper over a clear fire. 
 
 Gold Yellow for Brass. 
 
 A gold like appearance may be given to brass by the 
 use of a fluid prepared by boiling for about 15 minutes, 
 4 parts caustic soda, 4 parts milk sugar, and 100 parts 
 water, after which 4 parts of a concentrated solution of 
 sulphate of copper is added with constant stirring. The 
 mixture is then cooled to 79 degrees C, and the pre- 
 viously well cleaned articles are for a short time laid into 
 it. When left in it for some time they will first assume a 
 blueish and then a rainbow color. 
 
 Coloring Copper. 
 
 To produce a dark-brown color upon copper, take 
 the white of an egg, beat it into froth, add a little boiled 
 or rain water, and add to this mixture caput mortnum 
 (red oxide of iron) color; rub them well together in a 
 mortar, and sufficiently thick until the color covers, and 
 may be applied. The copper articles are to be pickled 
 and simply washed; no sand must -be used, else the color 
 adheres badly. The latter is next applied with a brush 
 until it covers the surface; it is then dried by a fire, the 
 article is gently rubbed with a soft rag and caput 
 mortuum powder, and finally hammered with a hammer 
 with polished face. 
 
 Transparent Blue for Steel. 
 
 Damar varnish, 1 pint; finely pulverised Prussian blue, 
 1 dram; mix thoroughly. Makes a splendid appearance. 
 Excellent for blueing hands. 
 
28 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 To Blue Steel. 
 
 In order to blue steel pieces evenly, the following will 
 give satisfactory results; first blue the object without any 
 special regard to uniformity of color. If it proves to be 
 imperfect, take a piece of deadwood that does not crumble 
 too easily, or of clean pith, and whiten the surface with 
 rouge without letting it be too dry. Small pieces thus 
 prepared, if cleaned and blued with care, will assume a 
 very uniform tint. 
 
 To Bronze Steel. 
 
 Methylated spirit, i pint; gum shellac, 4 ounces; gum 
 benzoine, ]/ 2 ounce. Set the bottle in a warm place, with 
 occasional agitation. When dissolved, decant the clear 
 part for fine work, and strain the dregs through muslin. 
 Now take 4 ounces powdered bronze green, varying the 
 color with yellow ochre, red ochre and lamp black, as 
 may be desired. Mix the bronze powder with the above 
 varnish in quantities to suit, and apply to the work, after 
 previously cleansing and warming the articles, giving 
 them a second coat, and touching off with gold powder, 
 if required, previous to varnishing. 
 
 To Blue Screws Evenly. 
 
 Take an old watch barrel and drill as many holes into 
 its head as you desire to blue screws at a time. Fill it 
 about one-fourth full of brass or iron filings, put in the 
 head, and then fit a wire long enough to bend over for a 
 handle into the arbor holes — head of barrel upward. 
 Brighten the heads of your screws, set them point down- 
 ward into the holes already drilled, and expose the bottom 
 of the barrel to your lamp, until the screws assume the 
 color you wish. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 29 
 
 Aniline Bronzing Fluid. 
 
 A bronzing fluid which is said to be very brilliant, 
 and applicable to all metals, as well as to other substances, 
 is prepared as follows: Take 10 parts of aniline red 
 and 5 parts of aniline purple, and dissolve in ioo parts 
 of 95 per cent, alcohol, accelerating the solution by plac- 
 ing the vessel in a sand or water bath. Solution having 
 been effected, add 5 parts of benzoic acid, and boil for 
 from 5 to 10 minutes, until the greenish color of the 
 mixture has been converted into a fine, light-colored 
 bronze, which is applied with a brush and dries easily. 
 
 Antique Bronzes. 
 One can give bronze the green stain of verdigris by 
 covering the spots to be discolored with ground horse- 
 radish saturated with vinegar, and keeping the horse- 
 radish wet until the stain has become fixed. This will 
 require some days; for though the discoloration will 
 show after a few hours, it will be superficial and vanish 
 by wiping. Three or four days will, however, turn your 
 bronze into an antique, so far as the mockery of age can 
 make it old. 
 
 To Color Soft Solder. 
 
 The following is a method for coloring soft solder so 
 that when it is used for uniting brass the colors may be 
 about the same : First prepare a saturated solution of 
 sulphate of copper — blue stone — in water, and apply some 
 of this on the end of a stick to the solder. On touching 
 it then with an iron or steel wire it becomes coppered; 
 and by repeating the experiment the deposit of copper 
 may be made thicker and darker. To give the solder a 
 yellow color, mix one part of a saturated solution of 
 sulphate of zinc with two of sulphate of copper; apply 
 this to the coppered spot and rub with a zinc rod. The 
 
30 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 color can be still further improved by applying gilt pow- 
 der and polishing. On gold jewelry or colored gold the 
 solder is first coppered as above, then a thin coat of gum 
 or isinglass solution is laid on and bronze powder dusted 
 over it, making a surface which can be polished smooth 
 and brilliant after the gum is dry. 
 
 Silvering Tincture. 
 
 Experiments have shown the following receipts for a 
 silvering tincture to be excellent. Prepare the following 
 solutions : 
 
 A. Two parts of burned lime, 5 parts of grape sugar, 
 2 of tartaric acid, 650 of water. The solution is filtered 
 and put in bottles; should be entirely filled and well 
 corked. 
 
 B. Dissolve 20 parts of nitrate of silver in 20 of aqua 
 ammonia and then add 650 of water. 
 
 Just before the tincture is to be used mix solutions A 
 and B together; shake well and filter. Metals and dry 
 vegetable substances, such as wood tissues, horn buttons, 
 ivory, etc., ( can be silvered with this fluid. 
 
 To Bronze Medals, etc. 
 
 Powder and mix 1 pound each of verdigris and sal- 
 ammoniac; take a portion of this about as large as a hen's 
 egg and boil in a copper pan with about 5 pints of water 
 for 20 minutes. Let it settle and pour off the water. 
 Place the medals in a copper pan, resting them on pieces 
 of wood or glass, so they do not touch each other or the 
 copper; pour the fluid upon them and boil until the desired 
 color is obtained. 
 
 Chinese Brown Bronze. 
 
 Powder and mix thoroughly 2 parts crystallized verdi- 
 gris, 2 of cinnabar, 2 of sal-ammoniac, 2 of horn shavings 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 3 1 
 
 and five of alum. Moisten with water or alcohol and 
 rub into a paste. Cleanse the articles thoroughly, polish 
 with ashes and vinegar, apply the paste with a brush, 
 heat over a coal fire and wash the coating off. Repeat 
 until the desired shade is obtained. Addition of blue 
 vitriol gives a chestnut brown, while borax gives a 
 yellowish shade. 
 
 Antique Green. 
 
 Dissolve i part sal-ammoniac, 3 of powdered tartar, 3 
 of common salt, in 12 of boiling water. Then add 8 parts 
 cupric nitrate, and coat the articles with the liquid. 
 
 To Cover Spots on Gold or Plated Articles. 
 
 The following recipe will be found to answer well in 
 removing or covering over spots on gold or plated articles 
 where the plate is worn off. Dissolve twenty-four grains 
 of fine coin gold in one-half ounce of nitro-muriatic acid, 
 and then absorb the acid with a clean blotting paper. 
 When the paper is thoroughly dry burn it and pulverize 
 the ashes, which rub on the spots with chamois skin, 
 moistened with water. The spots should first be tho- 
 roughly cleaned. 
 
 Acid-Coloring Small Articles. 
 
 For acid-coloring on small articles, a very good plan is 
 to place them on a lump of charcoal, and make them red 
 hot under the blow-pipe flame, and then to throw them 
 into a pickle composed of about 35 drops strong sulphuric 
 acid to 1 ounce of water, allowing the article to remain 
 therein until the color is sufficiently developed; washing 
 the article in warm water in which a little potash has been 
 dissolved, using a brush, and finally rinsing and drying in 
 boxwood sawdust, completes the operation. 
 
32 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 To Whiten Iron. 
 
 Take ammoniacal salt in powder and mix it with an 
 equal quantity of quick silver. Dissolve in cold water 
 and mix well. Immerse the red heated metal in this bath 
 and it will become as white and beautiful as silver. Be 
 careful and do not burn the article by overheating. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 33 
 
 LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 In lacquering metals of all kinds, be sure that all oil and 
 grease are removed from the surface; the work should 
 not be handled with the fingers, but should be held with 
 a spring tongs or with a clean cloth. The work should 
 be heated so hot that the brush will smoke on being 
 applied, but not so hot as to burn the lacquer. See that 
 the end of the brush is perfectly even; if not trim it. 
 Use the extreme end of the brush and very little lacquer, 
 as it is better to apply two thin coats than one thick one. 
 If the lacquer be too thick, it should be thinned with a 
 proper medium, as alcohol, turpentine, etc., and if too thin, 
 evaporate by placing on the stove. Where articles are 
 lacquered in large quantities they may be dipped, in which 
 case they should be immersed by means of a wire into a 
 bath composed of equal parts of nitric and sulphuric acids, 
 removed, rinsed thoroughly in cold water, dipped into 
 hot water, then in alcohol and then dipped momentarily 
 into lacquer, shaken to remove all superfluous lacquer 
 and laid on a warm metal plate until dry. Lacquer for 
 dipping should be considerably thinner than that used 
 with a brush. 
 
 Lacquer For Silverware. 
 
 Coat the article ..with a fine brush with collodion, which 
 has previously been diluted pretty strongly with alcohol. 
 This coating dries at once and forms a very thin, trans- 
 parent and invisible protection which shields the silver 
 completely, and, if necessary, may be washed off with 
 hot water. This process is much employed in English 
 silver stores. 
 
34 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 Lacquers For Brass. 
 
 i. Dragon's blood 40 grains; seed lac 6 ounces; am- 
 ber and copal, triturated in a mortar, 2 ounces; oriental 
 saffron 36 grains; alcohol 40 ounces; extract of red San- 
 ders y 2 dram; coarsely powdered glass 4 ounces. 
 
 2. Gamboge, seed lac, annatto, dragon's blood, each 
 1 ounce; 2^ pints alcohol, % ounce saffron. 
 
 Gold Lacquer for Brass. 
 
 Twenty-four grains extract red sanders wood in water, 
 60 grains dragon's blood, 2 ounces amber, 6 ounces seed 
 lac, 2 ounces gamboge, 36 grains oriental saffron, 36 
 ounces pure alcohol; 4 ounces powdered glass. The 
 amber, gamboge, glass, dragon's blood and lac should be 
 thoroughly pounded together. Infuse the saffron and 
 the sanders wood extract in the alcohol for 24 hours. 
 Pour this over the other ingredients and strain. 
 
 Lacquer for Brass. 
 
 Coat it with the following varnish: 1 part white shellac 
 and 5 alcohol; 1 shellac, 1 mastic, 7 alcohol; or, 2 sanda- 
 rac, 8 shellac, 1 Venetian turpentine, 50 alcohol; or, 12 
 parts sandarac, 6 mastic, 2 elemi, 1 Venetian turpentine, 
 64 alcohol. Clean the article well, do not touch with 
 your hands, and warm to about 75 C. 
 
 Transparent Lacquer. 
 
 Dissolve 2 parts camphor and 30 parts copal gum in 
 30 parts of oil of lavender and 120 parts of oil of turpen- 
 tine. 
 
 Fine Pale Lacquer. 
 
 Saffron 2 drms., white shellac 1 oz., turmeric 1 drm., 
 Gamboge 1 drm., alcohol 1 pint. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 35 
 
 Simple Pale Lacquer. 
 
 Dissolve 1 oz. white shellac in a pint of alcohol. 
 
 Green Lacquer. 
 
 To 1 pint simple lacquer add 4 drams turmeric, 1 dram 
 of Gamboge. 
 
 Red Lacquer. 
 
 To 1 pint simple lacquer add 32 drams annatto and 8 
 drams of dragon's blood. 
 
 Gold Lacquer. 
 
 Turmeric 16 drms., shellac 3 oz., saffron 2 drms., 
 annatto 2 drms., alcohol 1 pint. 
 
 Amber Lacquer. 
 
 Oil of turpentine 12 parts, amber 4 parts, Venice tur- 
 pentine 1 part, elemi 1 part. 
 
 Gold Lacquer on Iron. 
 
 Dissolve 3 oz. finely powdered shellac in 1^ pints of 
 alcohol. Filter through linen and rub in a sufficient 
 quantity of dutch gold to give a lustrous color. Polish 
 and heat the iron, brush with vinegar and then apply the 
 color with a brush, when dry, varnish with copal varnish. 
 
 Lacquer for Dials. 
 
 A handsome varnish for dials of clocks, watches, etc., 
 may be prepared by dissolving bleached shellac in the 
 purest alcohol. It offers the same resistance to atmos- 
 pheric influence that common shellac does, when used as 
 a coating on brass. The manner of applying it is easily 
 learned. 
 
36 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 Lacquer for Steel. 
 
 After having cleaned the iron or steel article, anoint it 
 with a solution of wax in benzine, using a fine camel's hair 
 brush. By this treatment, articles exposed to acid vapors, 
 may be protected against rusting. Another coating may 
 be made if the steel or iron is covered with a layer of a 
 mixture obtained by boiling sulphur with turpentine oil; 
 this evaporates and leaves the sulphur upon the surface 
 as pure sulphur, which again combines with the metal and 
 forms sulphuret of iron, by heating the articles, if small, 
 over a gas or alcohol flame, 
 
 Black Lacquer for Iron and Steel. 
 
 Boil "1 part of sulphur with 10 parts oil of turpentine. 
 Cover the article with a very thin coat and hold over the 
 flame of an alcohol lamp, until the black polish makes its 
 appearance. 
 
 Lacquer for Metals. 
 
 Melt one part by weight of best wax paraffine, and 
 when sufficiently cooled, add three parts of petroleum. 
 Mix well together, and apply to the polished article by 
 means of a soft brush. The protecting film need only be 
 very thin, wherefore not too much should be applied. 
 
 Lacquer for Gypsum Figures. 
 
 Three parts caustic potash are dissolved in 36 parts hot 
 water, 9 parts stearic acid are added, and the obtained 
 soap paste is diluted with the same quantity of water and 
 95 per cent, alcohol. The warm solution is applied upon 
 the warm gypsum cast, and this, after a few hours, is 
 repeated with a wet sponge. The casting becomes still 
 handsomer if, in place of potash, a corresponding quantity 
 of ammonia is used. Old casts are first cleaned with a 3 
 per cent, caustic potash solution. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 37 
 
 CLEANING, PICKLING AND 
 POLISHING. 
 
 Polishing Agents. 
 
 Various polishing agents are used by watchmakers, 
 jewelers, gold and silversmiths, a few of which are here 
 described. Where the article will admit of it, the best 
 results are obtained by polishing in the lathe. For this 
 purpose the watchmaker should not use his regular lathe, 
 but should have for the purpose what is known as a polish- 
 ing lathe, fitted with its various attachments in the shape 
 of scratch brushes, buffs, etc. 
 
 Polishing Powder for Gold. 
 
 1. White lead, 43 parts; chalk, 174 parts; carbonate 
 of magnesia, 17 parts; alumina, 43 parts; silica, very 
 finely powdered, 26 parts; ferric oxide, 17 parts. This 
 is an excellent powder and is much used in finishing 
 new work by goldsmiths. 
 
 2. Mix together 4.3 parts of alumina, 17.4 of chalk, 
 4.3 of carbonate of lead, 1.7 of carbonate of magnesia, 
 and 1.7 of rouge. 
 
 3. An- excellent polishing powder for gold and sil- 
 ver consists of burnt and finely pulverized rock alum, 
 5 parts, and powdered chalk 1 part. Mix and apply 
 with a dry brush. 
 
 Restoring the Color to a Gold or Gilt Dial. 
 
 Dip it for a few seconds in the following mixture: 
 Half an ounce of cyanide of potassium, is dissolved in a 
 
38 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 quart of hot water, and 2 ounces of strong ammonia, 
 mixed with half an ounce spirits of wine, are added to 
 the solution. On removal from the bath, the dial is 
 immediately immersed in warm water; then brush with 
 soap, rinse, and dry in hot boxwood dust. Or it may 
 be simply immersed in dilute nitric acid, but in this 
 case any painted figures will be entirely destroyed. 
 
 Removing Spots on Gilding. 
 
 Boil common alum in soft, pure water and immerse 
 the article in the solution, or rub the spot with it and 
 dry with sawdust. 
 
 Cleaning Electro-Plate. 
 
 The tarnish can be removed by dipping the article 
 from one to fifteen minutes, in a pickle of the following 
 composition: Rain water, 2 gallons, and potassa cyanu- 
 ret y 2 pound; dissolve together, and fill into a stone jug 
 or jar, and close tightly. The article after having been 
 immersed, must be taken out and thoroughly rinsed in 
 several waters, then dried with fine, clean sawdust. 
 Tarnished jewelry can speedily be restored by this pro- 
 cess; but be careful to thoroughly remove the alkali, 
 otherwise it will corrode the goods. 
 
 Cleaning Gold Tarnished in Soldering. 
 
 It is usually cleaned in dilute sulphuric acid. The pickle 
 is made in about the proportion of one-eighth of an ounce 
 of acid to one ounce of rain water. 
 
 Cleaning Mat Gold. 
 
 Take 80 gr. chloride of lime, 80 gr. bicarbonate of 
 soda, and 20 gr. table salt; pour over this about 3 quarts 
 distilled water, and put in bottles, to be kept well corked. 
 For use, lay the dirty articles in a dish, pour over them 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 39 
 
 the well shaken fluid, let it submerge them, leave them in 
 it for a short time, and in extra cases, when very dirty, 
 warm them a little. Next wash the articles, rinse them 
 in alcohol, dry them in sawdust, and they will appear like 
 new. The fluid is of no further use. 
 
 Cleaning Watch Chains. 
 
 Gold or silver watch chains can be cleaned in a very 
 excellent manner — no matter whether they be mat or 
 lustrous — by laying them for a few seconds in pure aqua 
 ammoniac; they are then rinsed in alcohol, and finally 
 shaken in clean sawdust, free from sand. Imitation and 
 plated chains are first cleaned in benzine, they are then 
 rinsed in benzine, and afterward shaken in dry sawdust. 
 Ordinary chains are first to be dipped in the following 
 pickle : Pure nitric acid is mixed with concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid, at the rate of 10 parts of the former and two 
 parts of the latter; a little cooking salt is mixed with this. 
 The chains are boiled up in this mixture; they are then 
 rinsed several times with water, finally in alcohol, and 
 dried in sawdust. 
 
 Silver Soaps. 
 
 1. Cut in small pieces 2 lb. cocoanut oil soap; dissolve 
 in sufficient water to form a thick jelly; add 2 lb. fine 
 rouge by stirring until thoroughly homogeneous, and put 
 in boxes. 
 
 2. Dissolve 14 oz. Marseilles soap in 2 quarts of water, 
 add 7 oz. finest French chalk; if color is desired, add a 
 little fuschine; bottle for use. Apply with a woolen rag. 
 
 3. Saponify 10 lb. of cocoanut oil with pure caustic 
 soda in the usual manner and boil to a clean jelly, then 
 add 2 lb. tripoli, 1 lb. alum, 1 lb. cream tartar, 1 lb. white 
 lead. All the ingredients should be very finely powdered 
 
40 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 and intimately mixed before stirring in the soap. Pour 
 the mixture into tin moulds and it will quickly solidify. 
 To use, moisten the article with lukewarm water and 
 apply the soap with a rag. 
 
 4. Hard soap. 8 oz., turpentine ij4 oz., water 4 oz, 
 boil until perfectly dissolved and add aqua ammonia 3 oz. 
 
 5. Dissolve 10 parts castile soap in 10 parts water; 
 remove from the fire and stir in 30 parts fine whiting. 
 
 6. Dissolve 10 parts castile soap in 10 parts of water; 
 remove from the fire and stir in 10 parts tripoli, 5 parts 
 rouge, 15 parts French chalk. The powders should be 
 fine, and intimately mixed before adding. 
 
 Polishing Powder for Silver. 
 
 Mix intimately, 4 parts of finest washed pipe clay and 1 
 part of pure tartar. 
 
 Cleaning Silverware. 
 
 Hyposulphate of soda is the simplest and most effective 
 cleansing material for silverware; it operates quickly and 
 is cheap. A rag or a brush moistened with the saturated 
 solution of the salt cleans, without the use of cleaning 
 powder, strongly oxidized silver surfaces within a few 
 seconds. 
 
 Cleaning Silver Tarnished in Soldering. 
 
 Expose to a uniform heat, allow it to cool, and then boil 
 in strong alum water; or, immerse for a considerable 
 length of time in a liquid made of x / 2 oz. of cyanuret of 
 potassia to one pint of rain water, and then brush off with 
 prepared chalk. 
 
 Cleaning Silver Filigree Work. 
 
 Anneal your work over a Bunsen flame or with a blow- 
 pipe, then let grow cold (and this is the secret of success), 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 4 1 
 
 and then put in a pickle of sulphuric acid and water, not 
 more than five drops to one ounce of water, and let your 
 work remain in it for one hour. If not to satisfaction, 
 repeat the process. 
 
 Brass Polishes. 
 
 1. Rottenstone 4 oz., oxalic acid, powdered, 1 oz.; 
 sweet oil, 1^ oz.; turpentine to make a paste; apply with 
 soft leather. 
 
 2. Equal parts of sulphur and chalk, made into a paste 
 with vinegar. Allow to dry on the article and clean with 
 -a chamois or brush. 
 
 3. Dip the brass in a mixture of 1 oz. alum, 1 pint lye 
 and polish with tripoli on a chamois. This gives a brilliant 
 luster. 
 
 Magic Polish for Brass. 
 
 Add to sulphuric acid half its bulk of bichromate of 
 potash; dilute with an equal weight of water, and apply 
 well to the brass; rinse it well immediately in water, wipe 
 dry, and polish with pulverized rotten stone. 
 
 Polishing Paste for Brass. 
 
 Dissolve 15 parts of oxalic acid in 120 parts of boiling 
 water and add 500 parts of pumice powder, 7 of oil of tur- 
 pentine, 60 of soft soap, and 65 of fat oil. The polishing- 
 agent is usually mixed with oil, alcohol or water, to pre- 
 vent scattering, and is then applied to the polishing tool 
 in the shape of cloth and leather buffs, polishing files, etc. 
 Either the work or the tool should revolve with great 
 velocity in order to secure good results. Many articles 
 are brought to a high degree of polish by the use of the 
 burnisher, after subjecting them to the action of the ordi- 
 nary polishing agents. 
 
42 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 To Clean Brass. 
 
 The method prescribed for cleaning brass, and in use 
 in all the U. S. arsenals, is claimed to be the best in the 
 world. The plan is to make a mixture of one part com- 
 mon nitric acid and one-half part sulphuric acid in a stone 
 jar, having also ready a pail of fresh water and a box of 
 sawdust. The articles to be treated are dipped into the 
 acid, and then thrown into the water, and finally rubbed 
 with sawdust. This immediately changes them to a 
 brilliant color. If the brass has become greasy, it is first 
 dipped in a strong solution of potash and soda in warm 
 water; this cuts the grease, so that the acid has free 
 power to act. 
 
 To Polish a Watch Wheel. 
 
 It can be done nicely in the following manner: get a 
 cork flat on the top, and put into a vise ; on it place the 
 wheel, as far as the pinion will allow; 'then take a blue- 
 stone and water, and grind the wheel smooth and flat, all 
 the time revolving it with the left hand; wash it, and put 
 it in a box with some slaked powdered lime. This is 
 done simply for the purpose of drying it, and preventing 
 the pinion from getting stained or rusty. Brush it out 
 nice and clean, put another cork, clean and flat, in the 
 vise, and pound some crocus on a stake. Some workmen 
 add a little rouge, but this is simply a matter of taste. 
 Take a slip of tin, about the size of a watchmaker's file, 
 only thicker, file the end of one side flat and smooth, 
 charge it with a little of the crocus, and polish the wheel, 
 all the time rotating it with your left hand; do not cease 
 until both wheel and tin polisher are almost dry, so that 
 you can see the polish, when, if to your satisfaction, clean 
 the wheel off with a piece of soft bread, and brush it out. 
 Should it be scratched, bread them off, clean off the tin, 
 and take a new supply of crocus. Cleanliness in this 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 43 
 
 manipulation is of the greatest importance, for if there 
 should be any grit about the crocus, polisher, or the 
 fingers of the workman, the work will be full of scratches. 
 This applies simply to bar wheels. 
 
 To Polish Jewel Settings. 
 
 A very good way to polish jewel settings to American 
 watches on brass or gold, is as follows: First turn the 
 setting down to the right thickness, or nearly so, and then 
 grind down to a gray on a ground glass slab with rotten 
 stone and oil; then clean off the oily rotten stone and 
 polish on a boxwood lap with diamantine and oil, which 
 gives a nice gloss. It will also give a nice gloss on steel, 
 only use oil stone to gray steel with, instead of rotten 
 stone. The operator should be particular to clean off all 
 the graying powder in each case before using the box- 
 wood lap, and be sure to keep the lap in a place free from 
 grit or dust when not in use; brass watch wheels can be 
 finished in the same way as the jewel settings by the same 
 process. 
 
 Friction Polish on Steel. 
 
 1. After turning as smooth as possible, dress with 
 rouge on a bar of pure tin, using considerable pressure 
 and very little rouge, revolving in a lathe at high speed. 
 
 2. After turning, polish with rouge and use a hardened 
 steel or agate burnisher with a little oil. 
 
 Polishing Steel. 
 
 1. Take crocus of tin oxide, and graduate it in the 
 same way as preparing diamond dust, and apply it to the 
 steel by means of a piece of soft iron or bell metal, made 
 in proper form, and prepared with flour of emery, same 
 as for pivot burnishers; use the coarsest of the crocus 
 first, and finish off with the finest. To iron or soft steel 
 
44 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 a better finish may be given by burnishing than can be 
 imparted by the use of polishing powder of any kind what- 
 ever. The German method of polishing steel is per- 
 formed by the use of crocus on a buff wheel. Nothing 
 can exceed the surpassing beauty imparted to, steel or even 
 cast iron by this process. 
 
 2. If the steel is of moderately good temper, use a 
 zinc polisher with diamantine; a tin polisher is better for 
 soft steel. The diamantine should be mixed on glass, 
 using a beater, also of glass, with very little watch oil. 
 Diamantine mixed with oil becomes gummy, and quite 
 unfit in a day or two, and turns black, if brought into con- 
 tact with metal, in mixing. 
 
 3. To polish such parts as rollers and collets, first get 
 a flat surface, by rubbing with fine emery on a glass plate 
 or a bell-metal block, and afterward finish off on a zinc 
 block with diamantine ; but for levers, you must use a long 
 flat bell-metal or zinc polisher, and press the lever into a 
 piece of soft wood (willow is the best) in the vise, moving 
 the polisher instead of the work. For large articles, such 
 as indexes or repeater racks, which are not solid, and 
 spring, it will be found best to wax them on to a small 
 brass block and polish them underhand, in the same man- 
 ner as rollers. 
 
 4. Mix 1 pound of fine colcothar in 5 pounds com- 
 mon yellow vaseline. Apply with a rag or wash leather 
 and rub clean. 
 
 Removing Rust from Steel. 
 
 For cleaning purposes, etc., kerosene oil or benzine are 
 probably the best things known. When articles have 
 become pitted by rust, however, these can only be re- 
 moved by mechanical means, such as scouring with fine 
 powder, or flour of emery and oil, or with very fine emery 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 45 
 
 paper. To prevent steel from rusting, rub it with a mix- 
 ture of lime and oil, or with mercurial ointment, either of 
 which will be found valuable. 
 
 Removing Rust from Pinions. 
 
 The best way to remove rust from pinions is to scour 
 them up with oilstone dust and oil, till a smooth surface 
 is obtained, then polish with crocus. Care must be taken 
 not to grind the leaves off any more than is necessary, or 
 the proper shape may be destroyed. Some workmen 
 soak the rusted parts in a solution of cyanide of potassium 
 or other solvent of oxide of iron, but the use of such 
 means cannot be approved of. The way described is as 
 good as any, and is safe. If the pinions are very badly 
 rusted they should be rejected and others put in, as they 
 will be out of shape when finished off smooth, and would 
 not perform well in the watch. 
 
 Cleaning Files. 
 
 Let them lie in benzine until the metals, grease, etc., 
 have been thoroughly soaked and then remove them by 
 scratch brushing. 
 
 Removing Rust from Nickel. 
 
 i. Cover the stains with olive or cocoanut oil for a 
 time and then rub with aqua ammonia diluted with 
 water. The oil and ammonia form a soap which readily 
 washes off, bringing the rust with it. 
 
 2. Wash the stains with dilute hydrochloric acid until 
 removed, dry and polish with tripoli. 
 
 Cleaning Nickel Plates. 
 
 Nickel plates, must, under no circumstances, be 
 brushed with chalk, but be carefully washed with soft 
 
46 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 water and soap, with a soft brush. Any tarnish or spots 
 can be removed by dipping the plates for a few seconds 
 in a solution of clean and moderately strong cyanide of 
 potassium, rinse in clean water, dip in alcohol, and dry 
 the work in clean boxwood sawdust. When dry, remove 
 any sawdust that may remain with a camel's hair brush. 
 Handle the plates with tissue paper. Carefully buff the 
 plates for a finish with soft rough buff. The buff must 
 be free from dust. The above must be strictly adhered 
 to, in order to have good work. 
 
 Restoring the Color of Nickel Movements. 
 
 Take 50 parts of rectified alcohol, 1 part of sulphuric 
 acid and 1 part nitric acid. Dip the pieces for about 
 10 to 15 seconds in this composition, then dip them in 
 cold water, and afterwards in rectified alcohol. Dry 
 them with a piece of fine linen, or in sawdust. Nickel, 
 and the greater part of those metals liable to tarnish, 
 may be restored to their primitive color by dipping in 
 the following bath: Dissolve in a half a glass of 
 water, 6 or 7 grains of cyanide of potassium; plunge 
 the pieces in this solution and withdraw them immedi- 
 ately. As the cyanide mixes well with water, it is 
 sufficient to rinse them once in the latter to destroy 
 any trace of the cyanide. After this, dip the pieces 
 in alcohol, and dry them in boxwood dust, in order to 
 keep them from rusting. The balance, even together 
 with its spring, can be subjected to this operation with- 
 out any danger. If the pieces to be restored are 
 greasy, they must be cleaned with benzine before being 
 dipped in the cyanide, because it will not touch grease. 
 Cyanide of potassium, being a violent poison, great 
 care has to be exercised, and the operation should be 
 performed in a well ventilated place. The same bath 
 can be preserved in a bottle, and serves for a long time. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 47 
 
 Polishing Aluminium. 
 
 Mix equal parts of rum and olive oil, by shaking 
 these liquids together in a bottle. When a burnishing 
 stone is used, the peculiar black streaks first appearing 
 should not cause vexation, since they do not injure the 
 metal in the least, and may be removed with a woolen 
 rag. The object in question may also be brightened in 
 potash lye, in which case, however, care must be taken 
 not to make use of too strong lye. For cleaning pur- 
 poses benzole will be found best. Objects of aluminium 
 can be electroplated without any difficulty, and a bright 
 white luster may be imparted to them by passing them 
 successively through a weak bath of hydrochloric acid and 
 aquafortis. The effect obtained is quite surprising. 
 
 Cleaning Clocks. 
 
 If an American clock need no repairs, just cleaning, it 
 is not best to take apart but proceed as follows : Procure 
 a flat sash or varnish brush (new) i inch wide, and a 
 square tin pan 8x8 inches, and say 2 inches deep. Wind 
 up the clock and hold the movement over your tin pan, 
 and with the sash brush referred to, apply common kero- 
 sene oil. Remove the pallet (verge) and allow the clock 
 to run down rapidly once or twice, applying freely all the 
 while the oil to all the pivots, pinions, etc. This will cut 
 and remove the gum on the springs and pivots. Now to 
 clean off the oil, throw out the oil and use 74 degrees 
 gasoline in the same manner, rinse freely with gasoline 
 and allow to dry for a hour or two and your job is com- 
 pleted and well done. After drying one or two hours 
 you can proceed to oil the neeessary parts, but never oil 
 the mainsprings. If a clock needs repairing always put 
 it through this process before taking it apart, for it is then 
 clean to handle. A clock can be cleaned fifty times by 
 
48 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 this process and never injure the lacquer. If a clock is 
 not very dirty, gasoline (benzine will do) alone will answer 
 without the kerosene oil. French clocks should always 
 be carefully taken down, and put through the same pro- 
 cess, but each piece wiped clean with chamois skin. 
 
 Bleaching Ivory. 
 
 Ivory that has become yellow, may easily be bleached 
 in the following manner:- The article is placed under a 
 glass bell, together with a small quantity of chloride of 
 lime and muriatic acid, whereby chlorine is developed, 
 and exposed to sunlight. Be very careful not to breathe 
 the vapors, as they are very poisonous. The bleaching 
 power of the chlorine destroys the yellow pigment upon 
 the surface, and the article will be restored to its original 
 luster. 
 
 Cleaning Ivory Ornaments. 
 
 Ivory ornaments are quickly cleaned by brushing them 
 with a new, not very sharp, tooth brush, to which a little 
 soap has been given, then rinse the ornament in lukewarm 
 water; next dry it and brush a little, and continue brush- 
 ing until the luster reappears, which can be increased by 
 pouring a little alcohol upon the brush, and applying it to 
 the object. Should this have become a little yellow, dry 
 it in gentle heat, and it will appear as if new. 
 
 Removing Stains from Watch Dials. 
 
 To remove black or cloudy stains from porcelain 
 watch dials, which are generally caused by the tin 
 boxes they are shipped in, wet a piece of tissue paper in 
 nitric acid and wipe the dial. This will instantly remove 
 them. After applying the acid the dial should be 
 immediately washed thoroughly in water and then dried 
 in boxwood sawdust. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 49 
 
 Fine Rouge. 
 
 Dissolve sulphate of iron in hot water until no more 
 will be taken up. Allow to settle and pour the clear 
 liquor into a large jar, filling it only about half full. Add 
 dilute oxalic acid, slowly stirring with a glass rod until 
 the yellow precipitate ceases to form. Filter and dry 
 the resulting precipitate; drive off the oxalic acid by 
 exposure to moderate heat. The resulting ferric oxide 
 will be very fine and pure. 
 
 French Polishing - Powder. 
 
 Mix 1 part of fine rouge with 50 parts of carbonate of 
 magnesia, moisten a rag with water or alcohol, dip it into 
 the powder, and rub the articles thoroughly. Dry them 
 with soft leather. 
 
 Putty Powder. 
 
 Put pure metallic tin in a glass vessel and pour in suffi- 
 cient nitric acid to cover it. Great heat is evolved with 
 considerable effervescence, so that care should be taken 
 that the vessel is sufficient large to prevent boiling over. 
 The fumes are poisonous. When nothing is left but a 
 white powder, dry at a gentle heat to drive off the free 
 acid. 
 
 Tripoli. 
 
 A gray-white or yellowish powder, which is made 
 from the shells of microscopic organisms. It is used for 
 polishing soft metals, first with oil and then dry. 
 
 Pulz Pomade. 
 
 Oxalic acid 1 part, oxide of iron 25 parts, rotten stone 
 20 parts, palm oil 60 parts, vaseline 4 parts. The oxide 
 of iron may be Venetian red, or fine rouge, according to 
 quality desired. All the powders must be absolutely 
 free from grit. 
 
50 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 Pickling Solutions, 
 i. Sulphuric acid i part, water 8 parts. 
 
 2. Muriatic acid i part, water 8 parts. 
 
 3. Sulphuric acid 1 part, nitric acid 1 part, water 2 
 parts. 
 
 4. Dilute aqua regia will remove tarnish from gold. 
 
 5. Acetic acid 1 part, water 4 parts. Plunge the arti- 
 cle into the pickle while hot if quick action is desired, 
 either articles or pickle may be heated. 
 
 Cold Black Pickle for Brass. 
 
 All heretofore known black and gray pickles possess 
 the defect that they give different colors with different 
 copper alloys, while in the case of certain alloys they 
 altogether refuse to act. For instance, carbonate of cop- 
 per, dissolved in ammonia, gives to brass a handsome, 
 dark gray color, while it does not attack various other 
 alloys; but it is little suitable for instruments. A dark- 
 gray pickle, which almost indiscriminately stains all copper 
 alloys a handsome gray, resembling in color the costly 
 platinum, is composed by dissolving 50 grams arsenic in 
 250 grams hydrochloric acid, and adding to the solution 
 35 grams chloride of antimony and 35 grains finely pul- 
 verized hammer scales. The articles to be pickled are 
 rinsed in a weak, warm soda solution, prior to, as well as 
 after immersion, to be followed by continued rinsing in 
 water. The recipe is simple, and has been repeatedly 
 tested with uniformily good results. 
 
 Pickle for German Silver. 
 
 To twelve parts of water add one part of nitric acid, 
 immerse the article in this, quickly remove, and place in 
 a mixture of equal parts of sulphuric and nitric acids, 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BO©K. 5 1 
 
 rinse thoroughly in water, and dry in sawdust. In all 
 cases of pickling it is essential that all traces of acid be 
 removed by frequent washings in clean water. 
 
 Pickling of Metals. 
 
 Metals are pickled for the purpose of removing the 
 oxides and producing a lustrous surface. An excellent 
 pickle for brass consists of 10 parts of water and i of sul- 
 phuric acid. Dip into this pickle, wash, dry, and imme- 
 diately dip into a second pickle consisting of 2 parts nitric 
 acid and 1 of sulphuric acid and rinse thoroughly. This 
 dissolves the zinc from the brass, and gives the metal a 
 brilliant surface. All pickling operations with either hot 
 or cold pickle should be carried on in the open air or in 
 the draft of a well drawing chimney, as the vapors arising 
 from the acids are very injurious. In order to retain the 
 luster, a good transparent varnish should be applied. 
 
 Pickle for Gold Alloys. 
 
 Gold alloys, especially those containing copper, assume 
 an unsightly dark brown exterior, owing to the copper 
 oxide generated by the repeated glow-heating during 
 work. In order to remove this, the object must be pickled, 
 and either highly diluted sulphuric or nitric acid is used 
 for the purpose, according to the color the article is 
 designed to have. 
 
 If working with an alloy consisting only of gold and 
 copper, either sulphuric or nitric acid may be used indefi- 
 nitely, since gold is not attacked by either of these acids, 
 while copper oxide is easily decomposed thereby, and 
 after having been pickled, the article will assume the 
 color of pure gold, because its surface is covered with a 
 layer of the pure metal. 
 
 If the alloy is composed of pure gold and silver, how- 
 ever, only nitric acid can be employed, and the article is 
 
52 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 left immersed in it only for a. short time; this acid dis- 
 solves a very small portion of the silver, and the article 
 also assumes the color of pure gold. 
 
 When working with an alloy which, besides the gold, 
 contains both copper and silver, the process of pickling 
 may be varied in accordance with the color desired to be 
 given to the article. If the pickling is performed in sul- 
 phuric acid, the copper alone is dissolved, the article 
 assuming a color corresponding to a gold-silver alloy, 
 which now constitutes the surface of the article. 
 
 If nitric acid is used, it will dissolve the silver as 
 well as copper, and in this case a pure gold color is 
 produced. 
 
 Pickling is done by first feebly glow-heating the article 
 and cooling it; this operation is for the purpose of destroy- 
 ing any fat from the hands or other contamination adher- 
 ing to the article. If it was soldered with some easily- 
 flowing solder, this glow-heating must be omitted, but it 
 may be cleansed from impurities by immersing it at first 
 into very strong caustic lye, and rinsing it with water; it 
 is then laid into the acid. 
 
 The acids are employed in a dilute state, taking 40 parts 
 water to 1 part concentrated sulphuric or nitric acid. 
 If more articles than one, they had best be laid beside each 
 other in a porcelain or stoneware dish, the diluted acid is 
 poured over them, and some article is lifted out from time 
 to time to watch the course of proceedings, whether it 
 has assumed a yellow color. 
 
 When to satisfaction, they are rinsed with clean water 
 and dried. While pickling for the purpose only of causing 
 the color peculiar to gold to appear, the process of color- 
 ing has for its object to lend the appearance of very fine 
 gold to an article of an indifferent alloy. Various mixtures 
 may be employed for the purpose, and we give two 
 receipts below which are very appropriate : 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 53 
 
 Mix two parts saltpeter, i part table salt and 6 parts 
 alum with 6^ parts water, and place in a porcelain dish 
 for heating. As soon as you notice that the mixture 
 begins to rise, add i part of muriatic acid, raise the whole 
 to boiling and stir with a glass rod. 
 
 The article to be colored, and previously treated with 
 sulphuric acid, as specified, is suspended to a hook, either 
 of sufficiently thick platinum wire or glass; it is then 
 introduced into the rather slow boiling bath, and moved 
 around in it. It is to be taken out in about three minutes, 
 and rinsed in clean water, inspecting its color at the 
 same time. If not to satisfaction, it is returned to the 
 bath, and this withdrawing or reintroducing is re- 
 peated until the desired color is obtained. By the latter 
 immersions the article is left only one minute at a time 
 in the fluid. 
 
 When sufficiently colored, the article after rinsing, will 
 be of a high yellow and mat color; it is washed repeatedly 
 in water to remove the last traces of the bath, and then 
 dried between soft and heated sawdust. 
 
 In place of drying in sawdust the article may also be 
 dipped in boiling water, leaving it in for a few seconds; 
 the adhering water will evaporate almost instantaneously. 
 
 The second coloring method consists in pouring water 
 over a mixture of 115 parts table salt and 230 nitric acid, 
 so that the salt is dissolved; it is then to be heated until 
 a dry salt residue is again present. This residue is mixed 
 with 172 parts fuming muriatic acid and heated to boiling, 
 for which purpose a porcelain vessel is to be used. 
 
 As soon as the pungent odor of chlorine gas begins to 
 evolve, the article to be colored is immersed, and left for 
 about eight minutes in the fluid for the first time ; in other 
 respects, a similar treatment, as specified above, is also 
 used for this method; if the article colored was polished 
 previously, a subsequent polishing is unnecessary. 
 
54 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 On account of the vapors evolved by the coloring baths, 
 which are very dangerous to health, the operations should 
 be performed either under a well-drawing flue, or what 
 is still better, in open air. 
 
 Scratch Brushing. 
 
 Articles in relief which do not admit of the use of the 
 burnisher are brightened by the aid of the scratch brush. 
 The shape of the brush varies according to the article to 
 be operated upon. Hand scratch brushes are sometimes 
 made of spun glass, with fibres of extreme fineness and 
 elasticity, and are used for scouring only very delicate 
 objects. They are also made of numerous wires of hard- 
 ened brass and are prepared in similar form to the glass 
 brushes, except when purchased the ends of the wires are 
 not cut off, the operator being expected to do so before 
 using them. The object in leaving the wires connected 
 being to prevent them becoming damaged. Circular 
 scratch brushes, in which the wires are arranged radially, 
 are used for scouring articles which will admit of their 
 use. They are attached to the spindle of a polishing 
 lathe, and the wires consequently all receive a uniform 
 motion in the same direction. Scratch brushes are 
 seldom if ever used dry, the tool and the work being- 
 constantly wet with a decoction of soap-root, marsh- 
 mallow, cream of tartar, alum or licorice root. With 
 small articles the scratch brush is held as you would 
 a pencil, and is moved over the article with a backward 
 and forward motion. The brushes must be carefully 
 looked after and the wires kept straight and in good 
 order. If they become greasy they are cleansed in caustic 
 potash, and if they become rough they are sometimes 
 dipped into nitric acid. With circular brushes it is well 
 to reverse them occasionally in order to change the direction 
 of the wires. Dirty polishing leathers should be cleaned 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 55 
 
 by soaking them for an hour or two in a weak solu- 
 tion of soda in warm water, first rubbing the leather 
 thoroughly with soap. Rinse thoroughly and wash in 
 soap and water. The soap in the water will keep the 
 leather soft and pliable. Dry them in a towel and rub 
 thoroughly and your leathers will be much better than any 
 new ones you can buy. 
 
 Mat Brushing. 
 
 Very excellent results are obtained by running the fine 
 wire, matting brush at about 2,300 revolutions per minute, 
 applying rain water or sour beer diluted with water at 
 the place where the brush strikes the work; occasionally 
 hold a piece of sand-paper to the brush. Should the 
 points of the brush be too straight, let them strike over a 
 piece of wire, but do not hook them too much, as this 
 would prevent matting. Always preserve the brush in a 
 good condition; should the wires become entangled or 
 twist into knots, separate or cut them out. After the 
 work is matted, take a soft hair brush and brush it in soap 
 water, then rinse it in warm water charged with a small 
 quantity of spirits of ammonia and caustic potash; immerse 
 it in pure alcohol for a short time, and finally dry it in 
 sawdust. 
 
 Burnishers. 
 
 The surface to be burnished must be free from scratches 
 which the burnisher would not remove, but render more 
 distinct by contrast, and the burnisher must be kept highly 
 polished, for the surface burnished can never be smoother 
 than the burnisher. Burnishing polished pivots with the 
 glossy burnisher preserves them from wearing, Very 
 little, if any, of the metal is removed by burnishing in the 
 ordinary way, although watchmakers sometimes use what 
 are called cutting burnishers to form pivots. The cross 
 
56 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 section of these burnishers matches the outline of the 
 pivot it is desired to form, and they are roughened by 
 rubbing on a lead block charged with coarse emery. The 
 pivot is finished with a smooth burnisher of the same 
 form as the cutting one. Silversmiths use burnishers of 
 
 agate. 
 
 Burnishing - Powder. 
 
 A good burnishing powder is prepared from y 2 pound 
 white chalk, 2 ounces pipe clay, 2 ounces white lead, y 2 
 ounce magnesia carbonate, and colored with the same 
 quantity of jewelers' rouge. It is said to be unrivaled 
 for cleansing silver. 
 
 Cleaning Rags. 
 
 These rags, which are excellent for polishing metal 
 surfaces, are prepared in the following manner: Dip 
 flannel rags into solution of 20 parts dextrine and 30 parts 
 oxalic acid in 20 parts logwood decoction, wring them 
 gently, and sift over them a mixture of finely pulverized 
 tripoli and pumice stone. The moist rags are piled above 
 each other, placing a layer of the powder between each 
 two. They are then pressed, taken apart, and dried. 
 
 Cleaning Powder for Show Windows. 
 
 A good cleaning powder which leaves no dirt in the 
 joints, etc., is prepared by moistening calcined magnesia 
 with pure benzine so that a mass is formed sufficiently 
 moist to let a drop appear when pressed. The mixture 
 is to be preserved in glass bottles with ground stoppers, 
 in order to retain the easily volatile benzine . A little of 
 the mixture, when to be used, is placed upon a lump of 
 cotton and applied to the glass plate. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 57 
 
 Cleaning Soiled Chamois Leather. 
 
 Many workshops contain a dirty wash leather, which is 
 thrown aside and wasted for want of knowing how to 
 cleanse it. Make a solution of weak soda and warm 
 water, rub plenty of soft soap into the leather, and allow 
 it to remain in soak for two hours, then rub it well until 
 quite clean. Afterward rinse it well in a weak solution 
 composed of warm water, soda and yellow soap. It must 
 not be rinsed in water only, for then it will be so hard, 
 when dry, as to be unfit for use. It is the small quantity 
 of soap left in the leather that allows it to separate and 
 become soft. After rinsing, wring it well in a rough 
 towel, and dry quickly, then pull it about, and brush it 
 w r ell, and it will become softer and better than most new 
 leathers. In using a rough leather to touch up highly 
 polished surfaces, it is frequently observed to scratch the 
 work; this is caused by particles of dust, and even hard 
 rouge, that are left in the leather, and if removed by a 
 clean brush containing rouge, it will then give the bright- 
 est and best finish, which all good workmen like to see on 
 their work. 
 
 Cleaning Brushes. 
 
 The best method of cleansing watchmakers' and jew^- 
 elers' brushed, is to wash them out in a strong soda water. 
 When the backs are wood, you must favor that part as 
 much as possible, for being glued the water may injure 
 them. 
 
 Composition Files. 
 
 These files, which are frequently used by watchmakers 
 and other metal workers, for grinding and polishing, and 
 the color of which resembles silver, are composed of 8 
 parts copper, 2 parts tin, 1 part zinc, 1 part lead. They 
 
5$ watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 are cast in forms and treated upon the grindstone; the 
 metal is very hard, and therefore worked with difficulty 
 with the file. 
 
 To Prepare Chalk. 
 
 Pulverize the chalk thoroughly and then mix it with 
 clean rain water, in proportions of two pounds to the gal- 
 lon. Stir well, and then let it stand about two minutes. 
 In this time the gritty matter will have settled to the bot- 
 tom. Slowly pour the water into another vessel, so as 
 not to stir up the sediment. Let stand until entirely set- 
 tled, and then pour off as before. The settlings in the 
 second vessel will be prepared chalk, ready for use as 
 soon as dried. Spanish whiting, treated in the same way, 
 makes a very good cleaning or polishing powder. Some 
 watchmakers add a little crocus, and we think it an 
 improvement; it gives the powder a nice color, at least, 
 and therefore adds to its importance in the eyes of the 
 uninitiated. 
 
 Diamantine. 
 
 Diamantine consists of crystalized boron, the basis of 
 borax. By melting ioo parts boric acid and 80 parts 
 aluminium, crystals are obtained, the so-called bort, which 
 even attacks diamond. Diamantine bought in commerce 
 is less hard. 
 
 Vienna Lime. 
 
 A pure, anhydrous lime, obtained from Vienna. It is 
 extensively used for final polishing purposes, particularly 
 in watch factories. It differs from most polishing sub- 
 stances in that the effect is not produced by simple abra- 
 sion, for unless this lime is used while it is slacking, the 
 result will be unsatisfactory. It is kept in tightly corked 
 bottles and no more than is wanted taken out at one 
 time. Take a small lump from the bottle, crush, mix to 
 a paste and rub on the article with a boxwood slip, using 
 quick strokes. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 59 
 
 SOLDERS AND SOLDERING. 
 
 Soldering. 
 
 Soldering is the act of joining two metallic surfaces by 
 means of a more fusible metal or metallic cement. Solders 
 are commonly divided into two groups known as hard 
 solders and soft solders; the former fuse only *at a red 
 heat, while the latter fuse at low degrees of heat. In 
 hard soldering it is frequently necessary to bind the parts 
 to be soldered together with what is known as binding 
 wire, which is made of soft iron, repair clamps or solder- 
 ing forceps. The blowpipe is used most extensively for 
 soldering, although small soldering irons are used on the 
 larger kinds of work. It is of the utmost importance that 
 the meeting edges of all articles to be soldered be scraped 
 or chemically cleaned. While soldering, articles are 
 usually placed upon a piece of charcoal, though asbestos 
 or pumice stone is better for the purpose. Charcoal emits 
 gases from the coal while under the blowpipe which enter 
 into the alloy of gold or silver and render it brittle. To 
 prove this, reduce a small piece of iok gold to a liquid 
 form on a piece of charcoal, and treat a piece simialrly on 
 a piece of asbestos or pumice stone, and after allowing 
 each to cool, subject both to a heavy pressure and note 
 the difference in their malleability and ductility. 
 
 Soldering Forceps or Repair Clamps. 
 
 By the use of these devices any article to be repaired 
 can be adjusted in any desired position in a much shorter 
 time, and with more accuracy than by the ordinary process 
 
6o 
 
 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 of binding with wire to a piece of charcoal. They are so 
 constructed that any two pieces can be as readily brought 
 together as can be done with the fingers, no matter at 
 what angle or position you may desire them. Each part 
 works independent of the other, and the whole is held 
 securely in place by means of nuts, as shown, and both 
 hands being free, charcoal can be held behind the article, 
 
 thereby concentrating the heat, the same as when held 
 directly upon it. In soft soldering it can be used to great 
 advantage. 
 
 The forceps revolve in parts, which are fastened to 
 arms, by means of a hinge joint. The arms run through 
 the collars, so that they can be lengthened or shortened, 
 and the forceps raised or lowered as desired. The collars 
 turn independently of each other on base, and being split 
 the whole is held firmly in position by nuts. 
 
 Gold Solders. 
 
 Gold solders should approach the articles to be soldered 
 in both color and fusibility as nearly as possible. The 
 following gold solders are in general use : 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 6l 
 
 Hard solder for 750 fine 
 
 Soft solder for 750 fine. 
 
 Solder for 5S3 fine. 
 
 Solder for less than 583 fine.. 
 
 Readily fusible solder 
 
 Solder for yellow gold 
 
 Parts Gold. 
 
 Parts 
 Silver. 
 
 Parts 
 Copper. 
 
 90 
 
 2.0 
 
 I.O 
 
 I2.0 
 
 7.0 
 
 3-o 
 
 30 
 
 2.0 
 
 I.O 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.0 
 
 
 II 94 
 
 54-74 
 
 2S.17 
 
 10.0 
 
 5° 
 
 
 Parts Zinc. 
 
 5.OI 
 I.O 
 
 To Solder Enameled Jewelry. 
 
 If the enamel is good, hard enamel, heating to melt the 
 hard solder will not affect it much. The trouble usually 
 is that the article is thrown when nearly red hot into the 
 pickle. Enameled articles should be allowed to cool and 
 then boiled in a copper dish with sulphuric acid, 1 part; 
 water, 5 parts. 
 
 Enamel Solders. 
 
 1. Copper 25 parts, silver 7 parts, gold 68 parts. 
 
 2. Silver 18 parts, gold 74 parts. 
 
 The above solders are very refractory, and are used 
 for work that is to be subsequently enameled. 
 
 To Preserve the Color of Gold. 
 
 To preserve the color of gold while soldering is very 
 important. One ounce of yellow ochre mixed with borax 
 water to the consistency of cream, and applied ■ to the 
 article before heating will overcome the difficulty. After 
 heating boil out as usual. 
 
 To Prevent Discoloring of Silver. 
 
 A paste of whiting and water, dried on the bright parts 
 of silver, will prevent oxidation while soldering. Care 
 should be taken to keep the paste from touching the parts 
 that have been cleaned for the solder. 
 
62 
 
 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 Silver Solders. 
 
 The following hard silver solders have been thoroughly 
 tested : 
 
 
 Parts Fine 
 Silver. 
 
 Parts 
 Copper. 
 
 Parts Brass. 
 
 Parts Zinc. 
 
 First - 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 l 9 
 
 57 
 
 I 
 2S.6 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 IO 
 
 
 Second ... 
 
 
 Third 
 
 5 
 
 Fourth 
 
 14.3 
 
 
 
 Yellow Solder for Brass. 
 
 1. Copper 1 part, zinc 1 part. 
 
 2. Copper 32 parts, zinc 29 parts, tin 1 part. 
 
 3. Zinc 3 parts, copper 2 parts. 
 
 To Solder a Stay Spring. 
 Stay or lifting springs are often broken, and the watch- 
 maker has frequently none of the right size nor the time 
 to make a new one. In such a predicament he can mend 
 the old one and have it just as good as new, by placing 
 the broken parts together and binding them firmly 
 to a piece of coal, then soldering them with 18-karat 
 gold. It requires a strong heat and plenty of borax; 
 then finish off, nicely harden and temper in the usual 
 
 manner. 
 
 To Solder Broken Broaches. 
 
 Steel broaches and other tools are soldered by cleaning 
 well the parts broken, then dipping them into a solution 
 of sulphate of copper, and soldering them with ordinary 
 soft solder. The joint is a good one and will stand 
 ordinary hard wear. 
 
 Solder for Aluminium. 
 The following alloys are recommended for the pur- 
 pose: 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 63 
 
 i. Melt 20 parts of aluminium in a suitable crucible, 
 and when in fusion add 80 parts zinc. When the mix- 
 ture is melted, cover the surface with some tallow, and 
 maintain in quiet fusion for some time, stirring occa- 
 sionally with an iron rod; then pour into moulds. 
 
 2. Take 15 parts of aluminum and 85 parts zinc, or 12 
 parts of the former and 88 parts of the latter, or 8 parts 
 of the former and 92 parts of the latter; prepare all of 
 them as specified for No. 1. The flux recommended 
 consists of three parts balsam copaiba, one of Venetian 
 turpentine, and a few drops of lemon juice. The solder- 
 ing iron is dipped into this mixture. 
 
 To Solder German Silver. 
 Dissolve granulated zinc in muriatic acid in ah earthen 
 vessel. Cleanse the parts to be soldered and apply the 
 acid. Next put a piece of pewter solder on the, joint and 
 apply the blowpipe to it. Melt German silver one part, 
 and zinc in thin sheets four parts; then powder it for 
 solder. 
 
 Soldering Stone Set Rings. 
 
 There are various ways for doing this, but the follow- 
 ing will be found to be as good as any : Take tissue paper 
 and tear it into strips about three inches wide, twist them 
 into ropes, and then make them very wet and wrap the 
 stone with them, passing around the stone and through 
 the ring until the center of the ring is a little more than 
 half full of paper, always winding very close, and then 
 fasten upon charcoal, allowing the stone to project over 
 the edge of the charcoal, and solder very quickly. The 
 paper will prevent oxidation upon the part of the ring it 
 covers, as well as protect the stone. 
 
 Soft-Soldering Articles. 
 
 Moisten the parts to be united with soldering fluid; 
 then, having joined them together, lay a small piece of 
 
64 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 solder upon the joint, and hold over your lamp, or direct 
 the blaze upon it with your blowpipe until fusion is appar- 
 ent. Withdraw them from the blaze immediately, since 
 too much heat will render the solder brittle and unsatis- 
 factory. When the parts to be joined can be made to 
 spring or press against each other, it is best to place a 
 thin piece of solder between them before exposing to the 
 lamp. Where two smooth surfaces are to be soldered 
 one upon the other, you may make an excellent job by 
 moistening them with the fluid, and then, having placed a 
 sheet of tin foil between them holding them pressed firmly 
 together over your lamp till the foil melts. If the surface 
 is fitted nicely, a joint may be made in this way so close 
 as to be almost imperceptible. The bright looking lead, 
 which comes as a lining of tea boxes, is better than tin foil. 
 
 To Dissolve Soft Solder. 
 
 Nitric acid may be used safely for gold not lower than 
 12 karat and is very effective. The following is suitable 
 for all grades of gold and silver: Green copperas 2 ounces, 
 saltpeter 10 ounces, reduced to a powder and boiled in 10 
 ounces of water. It will become crystalized on cooling. 
 Dissolve these crystals by the addition of 8 parts of spirits 
 of salts to each part of crystals, using an earthenware 
 vessel. Add 4 parts of boiling water, keep the mixture 
 hot, and immerse the article to be operated upon, and the 
 solder will be entirely removed without injuring the work. 
 
 Soft Solder. 
 
 The soft solder most frequently used consists of 2 parts 
 of tin and 1 of lead. The following table gives the com- 
 position of various soft solders with the respective melt- 
 ing points: 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 65 
 
 Number. 
 
 Parts Tin 
 
 Parts 
 
 Lead. 
 
 Melts at 
 Degrees F. 
 
 Number. 
 
 Parts Tin. 
 
 Parts 
 Lead. 
 
 Melts at 
 Deg. F. 
 
 I 
 
 
 25 
 
 558° 
 
 7 
 
 1% 
 
 
 334° 
 
 2 
 
 
 IO 
 
 541 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 
 34° 
 
 3 
 
 
 5 
 
 5 11 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 
 356 
 
 4 
 
 
 3 
 
 482 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 
 365 
 
 5 
 
 
 2 
 
 441 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 
 37S 
 
 6 
 
 
 1 
 
 37 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 
 380 
 
 Hard Solders. 
 
 Under this name very different alloys are used, depend- 
 ing upon the metals to be united. The following table 
 shows the composition of various hard solders which have 
 stood a practical test for various purposes: 
 
 Refractory 
 
 Readily Fusible 
 Half White ... 
 
 White 
 
 Very Ductile.. 
 
 Part Brass. Parts Zinc. Parts Tin. 
 
 400 
 
 5 °o 
 12.00 
 40 00 
 
 78.00 
 
 l.OO 
 
 4 00 
 5.00 
 2.00 
 
 17-25 
 
 1. 00 
 800 
 
 To Make Wire Solder. 
 
 Melt the solder and pour into a vessel having a very 
 small opening, over a pail of water. The molten metals 
 will run through the hole into the water, solidfying as the}^ 
 pass. The vessel should be hot enough to avoid chilling 
 solder until after it leaves the hole. 
 
 Soldering Fluxes. 
 
 For hard solder use borax rubbed to a paste with water 
 on a slate. For soft soldering dissolve a small piece of 
 zinc in pure hydrochloric acid until effervescence ceases. 
 Take out the undissolved zinc after twenty-four hours, 
 filter the solution, add ^ its volume of spirits of sal am- 
 moniac and dilute with rain water. This fluid is non- 
 corrosive. 
 
66 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 Jewelers' Soldering Fluid. 
 
 Add to alcohol as much chloride of zinc as it will dis- 
 solve. Apply with a stick or medicine dropper. 
 
 Non-Corrosive Soldering Fluid. 
 
 A non-corrosive soldering fluid is prepared in the fol- 
 lowing manner: Small pieces of zinc are immersed into 
 muriatic acid to saturation, which can be known by the 
 cessation of the ebullition ; the zinc, also, being added 
 after this point, remains undissolved; add about one-third 
 the volume of spirits of ammonia, and dilute with a like 
 quantity of rain water. If the acid is gently heated at the 
 time of adding the zinc, the dissolving will progress much 
 more rapidly. This fluid causes no rust on iron or steel, 
 and is even excellent for tinning. 
 
 Etching. 
 
 Etching is accomplished by eating away certain portions 
 of the surface of the metal by acids, while the balance is 
 protected by a coating of wax or other substance imper- 
 vious to acids. It may be done in relief or intaglio, 
 according as the design is required; in relief, by etching 
 the back ground and leaving the higher portions bright; 
 or in intaglio, by covering the plate with a coating of 
 wax or special ink and drawing or scratching the design 
 upon the metal by means of variously shaped points called 
 etching needles. In the latter case, the points are handled 
 much like a lead pencil, care being taken to always cut 
 through the wax. The work may be left the original 
 color of the metal, with a mat surface, or it may be colored 
 to throw the design in relief by using any of the well- 
 known oxidizing solutions before removing the wax. 
 
 For single pieces slightly warm the article to be etched 
 and draw the design on the metal with a steel pen and 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 67 
 
 asphaltum or a pointed stick of wax, then plunge in the 
 acid or lay the acid on the design with a camel hair 
 pencil, as is most convenient, repeating the applications 
 until the work is etched sufficiently deep, then wash in 
 water and remove the wax with turpentine, benzine or 
 alcohol. 
 
 Where large quantities of work are to be done, such 
 as spoons, trade marks on steel goods, etc., a rubber 
 
 or composition stamp is made, having the design made 
 so that the parts to be bitten by the acid shall be 
 depressed in the stamp as shown in the illustration. 
 These stamps are easily made as follows: Sketch the 
 design or word upon a piece of paper and when satisfac- 
 tory draw it upon the inside of the bowl of the spoon with 
 plaster of paris. Mix the plaster to a consistency of cream, 
 and apply it by means of a small camel's hair brush or by 
 means of a very small syringe. The plaster should be 
 laid on rather heavily, in order that the depressions in the 
 stamp shall be sufficientlv deep. After drawing is com- 
 pleted and thoroughly hardened, oil it, and the bowl of the 
 spoon with olive oil, applying with a small brush. Procure 
 a small piece of composition such as printer's rollers are 
 made from, (a mixture of glycerine, glue and molasses), 
 heat it over a water bath until quite liquid and then pour 
 into the bowl of the spoon. Put away until thoroughly 
 cool. This composition pad can then be removed, glued 
 to a wooden handle, such as are used for rubber stamps 
 
6S watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 and you are ready to do the printing on any number of 
 spoons. The receipt for stamp ink will be found else- 
 where. If all the operations have been performed prop- 
 erly you will have a stamp similar to the illustration, in 
 which the name " Aurora " appears in white, the letters 
 being countersunk in the face of the stamp. With a small 
 roller or pad distribute your stamp ink thoroughly upon 
 the surface of a small ' piece of glass, apply your stamp 
 to the glass, thoroughly inking it by rolling back and 
 forth and then apply to the bowl of the spoon. The 
 result will be that the entire bowl of the spoon is covered 
 with the ink except the word " Aurora," which is left 
 white where the silver is exposed. You are now ready 
 to proceed with your etching. If your stamp has good 
 depth, the composition is of the proper consistency and 
 the ink well distributed, the lettering will need no touch- 
 ing up by hand, if it should, however, it may easily be 
 done by means of a fine pointed brush and asphaltum. 
 This stamp is used with a suitable ink or wax to transfer 
 the design to the goods and the work proceeded with as 
 
 before. In the first illustration shown, the words "Bridge- 
 port, Conn.," are bright, and in relief, the letters being 
 the only part touching the wax; while in the second, 
 the word " Aurora," was the only part not touched 
 by the wax, and consequently it is etched in intaglio and 
 the bowl is left bright. Almost any of the dilute acids 
 may be used that will attack the metal to be acted upon, 
 but a number of fluids are given here. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 69 
 
 Grounds for Etching, 
 
 1. White wax, 30 parts; gum mastic, 30 parts; 
 asphaltum, 15 parts. 
 
 2. White wax, 30 parts: gum mastic, 15 parts; 
 asphaltum, 15 parts. 
 
 3. White wax, 60 parts; gum mastic, 30 parts; 
 asphaltum, 60 parts. 
 
 4. White wax, 3 parts; block pitch, 1 part; asphaltum, 
 4 parts; resin, 1 part. 
 
 5. Soft linseed oil, 4 oz.; white wax and gum benzoin, 
 each Yz oz. ; boil to two-thirds. 
 
 Etching Fluids for Brass. 
 
 1. Dissolve 6 parts chlorate of potash, 100 parts water, 
 add 160 parts water to 16 of fuming nitric acid; mix the 
 two solutions. 
 
 2. One part sulphuric acid, 8 parts water. 
 
 3. One part nitric acid, 8 parts water. 
 
 4. Nitric or sulphuric acid 1 part, saturated solution of 
 bichromate of potash 2 parts, water 5 parts. 
 
 Etching on Copper. 
 
 1. Fuming hydrochloric acid, 10 parts; water 70 
 parts; add a boiling solution of potassium chlorate and 
 dilute. 
 
 2. Acetic acid 8 ounces; ammonium chloride, 60 gram ; 
 sodium chloride, 60 gram; pure verdigris, 40 gram; 
 powder the solids and boil in the acid until dissolved. 
 
 3. Nitrous acid, 1 ounce; silver acetate, 3 drams; 
 nitric ether, 8 ounces. 
 
70 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 Etching Fluids for Silver. 
 
 Use any of the fluids for brass and copper, any of the 
 oxidizing solutions given elsewhere, or any of the dilute 
 acids that will attack silver. Care must be taken in stop- 
 ping out the silver not to be etched, in order that the acids 
 may not creep under and destroy the sharpness and 
 beauty of the work. 
 
 Etching Fluids for Ivory. 
 
 i. Use dilute sulphuric and hydrochloric acids, mixed. 
 
 2. Cover the ivory to be etched with a thin coating 
 of bees wax, then trace the figure you desire to present 
 through the wax. Pour over it a strong solution of nitrate 
 of silver. Let remain a sufficient length of time, then 
 remove it, with the wax, by washing in warm water. 
 The design will be left in dark lines on the ivory. 
 
 Etched Signs for Jewelers. 
 
 Any jeweler can make extremely elegant signs by 
 taking sheet brass or copper, painting the parts not to be 
 etched with asphaltum or any of the other grounds and 
 etching as deeply as may be required. If a number of 
 signs are to be made, paint the backs of the sheets also 
 and plunge them in a wooden trough filled with the etch- 
 ing solution. A very effective design is made by leaving 
 the letters and borders bright, etching quite deeply and 
 then finishing with the green bronzing solution given 
 elsewhere. Remove the asphaltum by wiping with a 
 rag moistened with turpentine, clean thoroughly and 
 lacquer. Or the letters only may be etched, and after- 
 wards filled in with black or colored pigments, finishing 
 with lacquer. An ingenious and tasty jeweler can thus 
 secure an infinite variety of extremely elegant and ser- 
 viceable signs at a very small expense, beside utilizing his 
 leisure moments in a very interesting and fascinating way. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 7 1 
 
 Engravers' Border Wax. 
 
 Beeswax, i part; pitch, 2 parts, tallow, 1 part, mix. 
 
 Stamp Ink. 
 
 Melt y^ lb. resin, add 1 teaspoonful of lard oil, stir in a 
 tablespoonful of lamp black and throughly mix; thin with 
 turpentine to make it of the consistency of printer's ink 
 when cold.' 
 
 Wax for Steel. 
 
 Melt equal parts burgundy pitch, asphaltum and bees- 
 wax, stirring constantly until thoroughly incorporated, 
 apply with a dabber or ball of cotton covered with silk, hav- 
 ing first warmed the article so that the stick of the wax will 
 readily melt by touching. Rub on the wax in the stick 
 and spread evenly with the dabber. 
 
72 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 HARDENING, ANNEALING AND 
 TEMPERING. 
 
 Hardening. 
 
 Gold, silver, copper and brass are hardened by healing 
 and allowing to cool slowly; also by beating, burnishing, 
 etc. Steel is hardened by beating, also by heating to a 
 cherry red and then cooling quickly, by plunging in water 
 or some one of the numerous hardening mixtures. 
 
 The recipes here given are from various sources, and 
 the reader must adopt the one which he finds on trial, is 
 the best adapted to his wants. 
 
 In all cases the object should be heated to a red heat 
 before plunging. If an object to be hardened is long and 
 slender, it should invariably be inserted in the hardening 
 compound endwise, otherwise it will come out warped 
 and distorted. The same rule applies to thin or flat 
 objects. A preparation is used in hardening, consisting 
 of one teaspoonful of wheat flour, two of salt and four 
 of water. The steel to be hardened is to be heated 
 sufficiently, dipped into the mixture to be coated there- 
 with, then raised to a red glow, and dropped into cold 
 soft water. Another method is to raise the object to the 
 required heat and then drop it into a mixture of ten parts 
 mutton suet, two parts sal-ammoniac, five parts resin and 
 thirty-five parts olive oil. Oil, tallow, beeswax, and resin 
 are also employed for hardening. If an intense brittle 
 hardness is desirable drop the object into mercury or 
 nitric acid. In heating very small or thin objects, they 
 should be placed between two thin pieces of charcoal and 
 the whole brought to the required heat. In this way you 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 73 
 
 avoid uneven heating and hence it will be uniformly tem- 
 pered. When it is desirable to harden an article without 
 discoloring its surface, it should be placed in a metal tube 
 or bowl of a clay pipe, and surrounded with charcoal 
 that has been previously heated to expel all moisture, and 
 when raised to the proper heat the whole should be 
 immersed in the hardening liquid. 
 
 To Harden Steel in Petroleum. 
 
 According to B. Morgossy, the articles to be hardened 
 are first heated in a charcoal fire, and, after thoroughly 
 rubbing with ordinary washing soap, heated to a cherry 
 red. In this condition they are plunged into petroleum; 
 ignition of the petroleum need not be feared if no flame 
 is near at hand. Articles hardened by this method show 
 no cracks, do not wrap if plunged endwise, and after 
 hardening remain nearly white, so they can be blued 
 without further preparation. 
 
 Hardening Liquids. 
 
 If water is used for hardening, 32 F. will be found 
 about right for the sized articles hardened by watch- 
 makers and if the article is very small, ice may be added 
 to the water. A solution composed of one quart of water, 
 1% lbs. of sal-ammoniac, 10 oz. of refined borax, 
 1% ozs. of red wine, is used extensively for fine 
 cutlery. A mixture of 1 lb. of resin, 3 ozs. of lard, }i lb. 
 train oil and y 2 oz. of assafoetida is said to be excellent 
 for fine steel work. 
 
 Combined Hardening and Tempering. 
 
 M. Caron, with a view to combining the two opera- 
 tions of hardening and tempering, suggested that the 
 temperature of the water used for hardening, be heated 
 
74 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 to a pre-determined degree. Thus the requisite temper 
 may be given to gun-lock springs by heating the water 
 in which they are hardened to 55° C, or 130 F. 
 
 Annealing - . 
 
 Gold, silver, copper and brass are annealed by heating 
 them to a red heat and then plunging in water. Iron 
 and steel are annealed by heating to a red heat and 
 allowing to cool slowly, either in the open air or in various 
 mixtures, some of which are given herewith. There are 
 nearly as many methods of annealing as there are work- 
 men. The commonest methods are as follows: Heat to 
 a dull red, bury in warm iron filings or ashes, and allow- 
 ing the article to cool very gradually. Another method 
 is to heat the piece as slowly as possible, and when at a 
 low red heat put it between two pieces of dry board and 
 screw them up tightly in a vice. The. steel burns its 
 way into the wood, and on coming together around it 
 they form a practically air-tight charcoal bed. Brannt 
 gives the following method which he says will make 
 steel so soft that it can be worked like copper: Pulver- 
 ize beef bones, mix them with equal parts of loam and 
 calves' hair and stir the mixture into a thick paste with 
 water. Apply a coat of this to the steel and place it in 
 a crucible, cover this with another, fasten the two 
 together with wire and close the joint hermetically with 
 clay. Then put the crucible in the fire and heat slowly. 
 When taken from the fire let it cool by placing it in ashes. 
 On opening the crucible the steel will be found so soft 
 that it can be engraved like copper. 
 
 To Anneal Small Steel Pieces. 
 
 Place the articles from which you desire to draw the 
 temper into a common iron clock key. Fill around it 
 with brass or iron filings, and then plug up the open end 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 75 
 
 with a steel, iron or brass plug, made to fit closely. Take 
 the handle of the key with your plyers and hold its 
 pipe into the blaze of a lamp till red hot, then let it cool 
 gradually. When sufficiently cold to handle, remove the 
 plug, and you will find the article with its temper fully 
 drawn, but in all other respects just as it was before. 
 The reason for having the article thus plugged up while 
 passing it through the heating and cooling process is, that 
 springing always results from the action of changeable 
 currents of atmosphere. The temper may be drawn 
 from cylinders, staffs, pinions, or any other delicate pieces 
 by this mode with perfect safety. 
 
 To Soften a Spring. 
 
 A spring may be laid flat and its temper drawn between 
 two plates fastened together by a screw through the center, 
 and placed upon the annealing plate. A small piece of 
 whitened steel is laid upon it, to enable the operator to 
 judge of the degree of heat. Before opening, let it cool. 
 When drawing the temper lay the coils farther apart. 
 
 . To Soften Steel. 
 
 Heat it brown-red, and plunge it in soft water; river 
 water is best. Do not heat over red-brown, however, 
 else it becomes hard when plunged. But if you plunge 
 it as soon as it turns red, the steel will be soft enough to 
 cut with ease. 
 
 To Anneal Hardened Steel. 
 
 It may sometimes happen, that hardened steel parts 
 require a few finishing touches, which can not be done 
 because they are too hard and their polish would be ruined 
 by annealing them, because it turns blue, and the piece 
 then requires renewed polish, which consumes a great 
 deal of time. The most practical way then is to cover 
 
76 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 the steel part with the oily dirt from the oil-stone, after 
 which it can be annealed with impunity, that is, the flame 
 is, with the blow-pipe, directed to the point required. The 
 article is afterward cleansed in benzine. 
 
 To Anneal a Staff or Pinion. 
 
 It 7 sometimes becomes necessary to anneal a staff or 
 pinion, in which you wish to insert a pivot, without re- 
 moving it from the wheel. To do this place the whole 
 part or end of the staff or pinion in a pin-vise or slide- 
 tongs, which, of course, is cold; now pierce the top of a 
 brass thimble, so that the end to be drilled will go in snug; 
 then, with a blowpipe and small spirit lamp throw as 
 much heat as you wish on the article to be drilled, by 
 blowing directly into the thimble, without in the least 
 heating the wheel. 
 
 Tempering. 
 
 Before tempering, the surface of the object must be 
 thoroughly cleaned and freed from grease by the applica- 
 tion of oilstone dust, emery, or some like scouring agent. 
 The object should not be handled with the ringers after 
 cleaning,.or it will be difficult to obtain the requisite tint. 
 
 After letting an object down to the required color it 
 should be allowed to cool gradually, and no artificial 
 means employed to hasten the cooling. A piece of steel 
 may be let down to the same color several times without 
 in any way injuring it or altering its properties. Temper- 
 ing of small articles is performed satisfactorily by means 
 of the bluing pan. Small articles are also tempered by 
 placing them in a vessel, say a large spoon, covering them 
 with oil and heating them to the requisite degree. This 
 is a favored method of tempering balance staffs and 
 similiar articles. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 77 
 
 The following table by Stodart will be valuable to the 
 student: 
 
 4. 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 io 
 
 H 
 '5 
 16 
 
 i7 
 iS 
 
 i9 
 20 
 
 430° 
 
 F. 
 
 450° 
 
 F. 
 
 47o u 
 
 F. 
 
 49°° 
 
 F. 
 
 500 
 
 F. 
 
 520 
 
 F. 
 
 S3o° 
 
 F. 
 
 550° 
 
 F. 
 
 57o° 
 
 F. 
 
 59°° 
 
 F. 
 
 6io° 
 
 F. 
 
 630 
 
 F. 
 
 980 
 
 F. 
 
 1290 
 
 F. 
 
 1470 
 
 F. 
 
 16^0° 
 
 F. 
 
 183c 
 
 F. 
 
 2010 
 
 F. 
 
 2190 
 
 F. 
 
 2370 
 
 F. 
 
 2550 
 
 F. 
 
 Very Pale Straw Yellow... 
 A Shade Darker Yellow... 
 
 Darker Straw Yellow. 
 
 Still Darker Straw Yellow. 
 
 Brown Yellow 
 
 Yellow tinged with Purple 
 
 Light Purple 
 
 Dark Purple 
 
 Dark Blue 
 
 Paler Blue 
 
 Still Paler Blue 
 
 Light Bluish Green 
 
 Incipient Red 
 
 Dull Red 
 
 Incipient Cherry Red 
 
 Cherry Red 
 
 Clear Cherry Red 
 
 Deep Orange .. 
 
 Clear Orange 
 
 White 
 
 Bright White 
 
 220 C. 
 235° C. 
 245 C. 
 255 C. 
 260 C. 
 270 c. 
 275 c 
 
 290 c 
 300 c 
 
 310^ 
 
 32o< 
 33 < c 
 5^5 C 
 7oo c 
 Soo c 
 900 c 
 iooo c 
 noo c 
 
 I200 c 
 
 i3oo c 
 1400* 
 
 The temper is usually judged by the color of the 
 smoke; Saunier gives the following rule: When smoke 
 is first seen. to rise the temper is dark yellow, (or No. 
 2). Smoke more abundant and darker, (No. 5). Black 
 smoke still thicker, (No. 7). Oil takes fire when lighted 
 paper is presented to it at No. 9. After this the oil takes 
 fire of itself and continues to burn. If the whole of the 
 oil is allowed to burn away No. 12 is reached. 
 
 Bluing Pan. 
 
 A pan used for bluing screws and other small articles. 
 It is sometimes very desirable to match the color of screw 
 heads in a watch. By making the following described 
 simple little tool you can very readily color your screws 
 straw, purple or blue as the case may require, to match 
 the other screw in the watch. Select a very large main- 
 spring barrel, drill a hole in the side of the barrel the size 
 of an ordinary pendulum rod for an American clock, cut 
 
78 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 a thread in this hole and also on the piece of wire and 
 screw it firmly into the mainspring barrel, cutting off 
 about four or five inches long, to which attach a neat 
 piece of wood to serve as a handle. Now take out the 
 head, and fill the barrel full of fine marble dust or brass 
 or iron fillings and replace the head in the barrel, after 
 which drill any number and size of holes in the barrel you 
 wish, to accommodate all sizes of watch screws, and the 
 
 tool is ready for use. Bluing pans similar to the one 
 shown, can be purchased from material dealers and are 
 similar to the one described. After fitting the screw to 
 the proper place in the watch, harden and temper in the 
 usual manner. Polish out all scratches or other marks 
 and selecting a hole in the tool to fit the screw loosely, 
 press it down level with the face of the barrel and hold 
 the tool over a small alcohol lamp flame until the color 
 desired appears. Heat up slowly and the effect will be 
 much better than if it is done rapidly. First blue the 
 screws without any special regard as to uniformity of 
 color. Should they prove to be imperfect, take a piece 
 of clean pith and whiten the surface with rouge, without 
 letting it be too dry. Pieces when thus prepared, if 
 cleaned and blued with care, will assume a very uniform 
 tint. 
 
 Soft screws are sometimes very difficult to blue evenly, 
 but this difficulty may be overcome by finishing them with 
 a slightly soapy burnisher. Pieces that are not flat will 
 rarely assume an even color when placed in a flat pan. 
 To overcome this difficulty, sprinkle the bottom of the 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 79 
 
 pan with fine brass filings or marble dust and press the 
 article into it- The bluing pan or shovel should be 
 thoroughly warmed before the articles are placed in it, 
 in order that any moisture present may be dispersed. 
 The pan will also be found useful for tempering small 
 steel articles by boiling them in oil. 
 
 To Temper Small Steel Articles. 
 
 The tempering of small drills, for drilling holes in 
 arbors, staffs, etc., which we find are very hard and diffi- 
 cult to perforate, may be effected in the following manner: 
 After having filed the drill to its proper size (being care- 
 ful not to flatten the cutting 'face), you then warm it mod- 
 erately, not allowing it to become red, and run it into 
 borax. The drill is thus coated over with a crust of borax 
 and secluded from the air. Now it may be hardened by 
 heating it only cherry red; after this it is inserted into a 
 piece of borax, or what is better still, plunged it into mer- 
 cury; taking care not to breathe the mercury fumes. 
 Drills prepared in this way, without being brittle, will 
 become exceedingly hard and the watchmaker will be 
 enabled to drill articles which could not otherwise be per- 
 forated with a drill. Do not use broken broaches to 
 make your drills as the steel in them is often burned, ren- 
 dering the metal unfit for use in small tools. In order to 
 make the quality of your drill a certainty, always take a 
 new piece of round steel for the purpose. 
 
 Tempering Magnets. 
 M. Ducoetet uses the following process for tempering 
 and magnetizing steel to be used as magnets. Two soft 
 iron pole pieces are placed in the bottom of a water tight 
 vessel and are connected with the poles of a powerful 
 electro-magnet. The vessel is partially filled with water, 
 and oil is poured into the vessel, which floats upon the 
 
80 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 surface of the water. The red hot bar is then passed 
 through the liquids and comes in contact with the mag- 
 nets. This softens the steel without depriving it of its 
 power of being magnetized. 
 
 To Temper Drills. 
 
 Select none but the finest and best steel for your drills. 
 In making them, never heat higher than a cherry red, 
 and always hammer till nearly cold. Do all your ham- 
 mering in one way, for if, after you have flattened out 
 your piece, you attempt to hammer it back to a square or 
 round, you will ruin it. When your drill is in proper 
 shape, heat it to a cherr}^ red and thrust it into a piece of. 
 resin or into mercury. Some use a solution of cyanuret 
 of potassia and rain water for tempering their drills, but 
 the resin or mercury will give better results. 
 
 To Bend Tempered Steel. 
 
 It very frequently happens to the repairer that he desires 
 to bend a spring, but fearing the risk of breaking it, 
 abandons the idea. In such a case the following hint may 
 be useful: Suppose it is desirable to bend a side click 
 spring of a Swiss bridge watch, which, by the way, is 
 generally made of poor steel. Lay hold of the end in 
 which the screw goes with a pair of brass-nosed sliding 
 tongs, holding it in the left hand; then press a piece of 
 brass against the click, bending it in the direction desired, 
 and, at the same time, holding it over the flame of a spirit 
 lamp until the center or spring part becomes a straw or 
 dark red color. This will have the desired effect. The 
 fact that spring-tempered steel is brought to a dark red 
 blue twenty times over, will not reduce it below its former 
 temper; on the contrary, it will tend to equalize and 
 improve the temper and render it less liable to break. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Si 
 
 Again, suppose a cylinder pivot, or any pivot, on any of 
 the escapement parts are bent and you wish to straighten it 
 by this process : Take a small brass bushing-, tit it to the 
 pivot and hold over the flame of the lamp, bending it at 
 the same time in the desired direction. 
 
82 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 RECOVERY AND REFINING 
 OF WASTE. 
 
 Refining Sweepings. 
 
 The sweepings of the workshop contain quite a quantity 
 of gold and silver. To 8 ozs. of the dirt, which has been 
 washed and burnt, add salt, 4 ozs.; pearl ash, 4 ozs.; red 
 tartar, 1 oz. ; saltpeter, y 2 oz. ; mix thoroughly in a mortar, 
 melt in a crucible and dissolve out the precious metals in 
 a button. 
 
 To Recover Gold from Mixed Metals. 
 
 Gold should dissolve in a mixture of 1 part nitric and 
 3 parts of hydrochloric acid. Both should be chemically 
 pure. The residue left after digestion is silver. With- 
 draw the clear solution and add to it a little sulphuric 
 acid; if any precipitate falls, it is probably lead. Then 
 the gold may be precipitated by any of the reagents and 
 recovered by fusing in the ordinary manner. Afterwards 
 dissolve the silver by treatment with nitric acid and pre- 
 cipitate it, wash dry and fuse. The residues may be 
 thrown away after the recovery of the gold and silver. 
 
 To Separate Gold from Silver. 
 
 The alloy is to be melted and poured from a height into 
 a vessel of cold water, to which a rotary motion is 
 imparted. By this means the alloy is reduced to a finely 
 granular condition. The metallic substance is then treated 
 with nitric acid, and gently heated. Nitrate of silver is 
 produced, which can be reduced by any of the known 
 methods; while metallic gold remains as a black mud, 
 which must be washed and smelted. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 83, 
 
 Melting Gold. 
 
 In melting gold use none other than a charcoal firev 
 and during the process sprinkle saltpeter and potash into 
 the crucible occasionally. Do not attempt to melt with 
 stone coal, as it renders the metal brittle and otherwise 
 imperfect. 
 
 In melting brass alloyed gold, urge the fire to a great 
 heat and stir the metal with the long stem of a tobacco 
 pipe, to prevent honeycombing. If steel or iron filings get 
 into gold while melting, throw in a piece of sandiver the 
 size of a common nut; it will attract the iron or steel from 
 the gold into the flux, or, sublimate of mercury will 
 destroy the iron or steel. To cause gold to roll well, melt 
 with a good heat, add a tablespoonful of sal ammoniac and 
 charcoal, equal quantities, both pulverized, stir up well, 
 put on the cover for two minutes, and pour. 
 
 Fusing Gold Dust. 
 
 Use such a crucible as is generally used for melting: 
 brass; heat very hot, then add your gold dust mixed with 
 powdered borax. After a while a scum or slag will rise 
 to the surface, which may be thickened by the addition of 
 a little lime or bone ash. If the dust contains any of the 
 more oxidizable metals, add a little saltpeter, skim off the : 
 slag or scum very carefully; when melted grasp the cru- 
 cible with strong iron tongs, and pour immediately into 
 cast iron molds, slightly greased. The slag and crucible 
 may be pulverized, and the auriferous matter recovered 
 by cupellating by means of lead. 
 
 To Refine Gold. 
 
 If you desire to refine gold from the baser metals,, 
 swedge or roll it out very thin, then cut into narrow strips 
 and curl up so as to prevent its lying flatly. , Drop the 
 
$4 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 piece thus prepared into a vessel containing good nitric 
 acid, in the proportion of acid, 2 ounces, and pure rain 
 water y 2 ounce. Suffer to remain until thoroughly dis- 
 solved which will be the case in from one-half to one 
 hour. Then pour off the liquid carefully, and you will 
 find the gold in the form of yellow powder, lying at the 
 bottom of the vessel. Wash it with pure water until it 
 ceases to have an acid taste, after which you may melt 
 and cast into any form you choose. Gold treated in this 
 manner may be relied on as perfectly pure. 
 
 Recovering Gold from Coloring- Bath. 
 
 Dissolve a handful of sulphate of iron in boiling water, 
 and add it to your "color" water; it precipitates the small 
 particles of gold. Now draw off the water, being very 
 careful not to disturb the auriferous sediment at the bot- 
 tom. You will now proceed to wash the sediment from 
 all trace of aCid with plenty of boiling water; it will re- 
 quire three or four separate washings, with sufficient time 
 between each to allow the water to cool and the sediment 
 to settle, before passing off the water. Then dry in an 
 iron vessel by the fire and finally fuse in a covered cru- 
 cible with a flux. 
 
 Gold and Silver from Textiles. 
 
 Cut into pieces the gold or silver lace, tie it tightly, 
 and boil in soap lye till the size appears diminished, take 
 the cloth out of the liquid, and after repeated rinsings of 
 cold water, beat it with a mallet to draw out the alkali. 
 Open the linen, and the pure metal will be found in all its 
 beauty. 
 
 Removing Tin from Gold. 
 
 Much depends upon the treatment the tin received in 
 soldering. • If it received too much heat, it has penetrated 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 85 
 
 into the gold, and can never be expelled again. This is 
 known when scratching the tin, if it is glass hard it has 
 become incorporated. If, however, it is still soft, scrape 
 it off as closely as possible, and lay the article in a dilute 
 mixture of sulphuric acid and water, and leave it im- 
 mersed for a few hours. Have a care to have the fluid 
 only strong enough to dissolve the tin, but not to attack 
 the gold. When, after taking out, it should still show 
 black spots, which is a sign that more tin is present 
 scrape and immerse again. 
 
 Removing Gold. 
 
 Gold is taken from the surface of silver by spreading 
 over it a paste made of pulverized sal ammoniac with 
 aquafortis, and heating it till the matter smokes and is 
 nearly dry, when the gold may be separated by rubbing 
 it with a scratch-brush. 
 
 Separating Silver. 
 
 The silver holding alloy or metals are dissolved in the 
 least possible quantity of crude nitric acid. The solution 
 is mixed with a strong excess of ammonia and filtered 
 into a high cylinder, provided with a stopper. A bright 
 strip of copper, long enough to project beyond the liquid, 
 is next introduced, which quickly causes separation of 
 pure metallic silver. The reduction is completed in a 
 short time, and the reduced silver washed first with some 
 ammoniacal solution and then with distilled water. The 
 more ammoniacal and concentrated the solution, the more 
 rapid the reduction. The strip of copper should not be 
 too thin, as it is considerably attacked, and any little par- 
 ticles which might separate from a thin sheet would con- 
 taminate the silver. The operation is so simple that it 
 seems preferable to all others for such operations as the 
 preparation of nitrate of silver from old coins, etc. Any 
 
86 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 accompanying gold remains behind during the treatment 
 of the metal or alloy with nitrate acid, chloride of silver, 
 produced by the impurities in the nitric acid is taken up 
 by the ammoniacal solution like the copper, and is also 
 reduced to the metallic state ; and whatever other metal 
 is not left behind, oxidized by the nitrate acid, is separated 
 as hydrate (lead bismuth), on treating with ammonia. 
 Any arseniate which may have passed into the ammoniacal 
 solution is not decomposed by the copper. 
 
 To Separate Silver from Copper. 
 
 Sulphuric acid i part, nitric acid i part, water i part. 
 Boil the metal in this mixture until it is all dissolved, 
 adding fresh liquid from time to time as the action ceases. 
 When all dissolved, throw in a little salt dissolved in 
 water, stir vigorously, and allow the precipitated silver to 
 settle, when no more precipitate is formed by the addition 
 of salt water, allow to settle, collect and wash the pre- 
 cipitate on a filter and fuse in a crucible. 
 
 Silver from Solution. 
 
 Silver may be recovered from the spent plating solu- 
 tions by adding sulphuric acid slowly until effervescence 
 ceases; allowing the precipitated silver to settle, washing 
 with hot water to remove the acid and fusing in a crucible 
 complete the process. Or, if desired to make silver salts, 
 it need not be fused, as the finely divided silver is acted 
 upon by acids to the very best advantage. 
 
 Refining Silver. 
 
 After having rolled the silver, cut it into narrow strips, and 
 curl it to prevent its lying flat; the pieces are dropped into 
 a vessel containing two ounces of good nitric acid diluted 
 with one-half ounce pure rain water. When the silver 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 87 
 
 has entirely disappeared, add to the two and a half ounces 
 of solution nearly one quart of pure rain water. Then 
 sink a sheet of clean copper into it; the silver will collect 
 rapidly upon the copper, and you can scrape it off and 
 melt it in a bulk. 
 
88 
 
 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 JEWELERS' ALLOYS. 
 
 Specific Gravities. 
 
 The following table shows the specific gravities of 
 numerous metals employed in the arts, together with their 
 melting points, malleability, ductility and tenacity. 
 
 Gold Alloys. 
 
 Take 600 grains of the gold-bearing quartz, finely pul- 
 verized, and free from sulphurets; mix with 600 grains 
 litharge, and 7 grains charcoal; melt all in crucible of 
 ample size, and set off to cool. Break the crucible when 
 cold, and the gold will be found in a small button under 
 the refuse matter at the bottom. To ascertain the amount 
 of gold in a metallic substance, select a small sample, 
 weigh it, and melt in a small cupel composed of calcined 
 bone ashes. This absorbs the common metal, leaving the 
 gold and siver exposed to view. The resulting button is 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 89 
 
 melted once more in the proportion of gold i part, silver 
 3 parts, and then rolled into a thin ribbon, and boiled in 
 nitric acid, which dissolves out the silver, and leaves the 
 gold pure at the bottom. The gold can be removed, and 
 the silver subsequently precipitated with salt. In the assay 
 of the rock containing pyrites, it must be roasted until it 
 ceases to evolve sulphurous fumes, then mix 600 grs. of 
 the powder with 300 grs. carbonate of soda, 300 grs. 
 charcoal, 300 grs. litharge, 300 grs. dried borax, and 15 
 grs. charcoal; melt all in a crucible, and treat as directed 
 above. 
 
 To Melt Gold. 
 
 Prepare a good fire and heat the ingot in which you 
 wish to cast the gold a little hotter than boiling water; 
 next put the alloy into the crucible, and add a small quan- 
 tity of pulverized borax, and leave on the fire until 
 melted. Cast this into a clean ingot, and after breaking 
 the bar into small fragments, return to the pot and re- 
 melt the gold, not adding borax this time, but when the 
 gold looks clear and smooth on top, add, for every 6 
 ounces gold, a piece of saltpeter about the size of a pea,, 
 and in about a minute pour the gold. Keep up the heat 
 after adding the saltpeter, and previous to pouring the 
 gold, pour a few drops of gold into the iron ingot. If 
 the stock was clean when you commenced, the gold will 
 roll well. Much depends upon the first rolling of the 
 stock; 18 karat should be subjected to a very heavy 
 strain the first and second draughts, which imparts a 
 grain to the stock; light draughts stretch the gold on the 
 surface, and the middle portion, remaining as cast, causes 
 the gold to crack, many good bars having been con- 
 demned, while the trouble was in the rolling. After the 
 18 karat has been rolled to about twice its length, it must 
 be annealed, then rolled to the size you require. Proceed 
 
<pO WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 with melting 14 karat, as above described for 18 karat, 
 giving it as heavy strains in the rolls, but not rolling so 
 much before annealing as the 18 karat. The other karats 
 of cheaper grade do not require the use of saltpeter to 
 toughen; instead of which use a little sal ammoniac, and 
 then proceed as above. When you anneal red gold do 
 not quench it when red hot, but allow the gold to blacken 
 before quenching, otherwise it will slit or seam. Melt 
 new alloys in every case twice; treat solder the same 
 way, to insure a thorough admixture of the copper with 
 the gold. 
 
 Coloring Gold Alloys. 
 
 Jewelers use a number of different colored alloys for 
 purposes of ornamentation, so as to produce a number of 
 different shades of color in the same article. For example 
 red, blue, yellow and white are employed for flowers; 
 green for leaves; yellow for stems; gray for backgrounds, 
 etc. These are used either made solid and hard soldered, 
 or sweated on the article to be ornamented; it is also used 
 in plating baths and deposited electrically upon the article, 
 the various parts not deposited upon, being covered with 
 wax or asphaltum while plating is being done. For white, 
 silver or platinum are used, the other colors, being made 
 according to the various formulas given below. 
 
 Blue Gold. 
 
 1. Melt 250 parts of gold and add 250 parts of steel. 
 
 2. Melt 500 parts of gold and add 250 parts of iron. 
 
 3. Melt 750 parts of gold and add 250 parts of iron. 
 
 4. Melt 90 to 99 parts of copper and add 1 to 10 parts 
 of gold. This is the celebrated Japanese blue gold. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 9 1 
 
 Red Gold. 
 
 1. Melt 666 parts of gold; add 66 parts silver and 268 
 parts copper. 
 
 2. Melt 750 parts gold, 104 parts silver and 146 parts 
 copper. 
 
 3. Gold, 600 parts; silver, 200 parts; copper 200 
 parts. A very pale shade of red. 
 
 4. Gold, 583 .parts; silver, 42 parts; copper, 375 parts. 
 Intensely red. 
 
 5. Melt 75 parts of gold and 25 parts of copper; in- 
 corporate thoroughly by stirring. 
 
 6. Equal parts of gold and copper, melted and tho- 
 roughly incorporated by stirring form a dark red. 
 
 7. Melt 25 parts of gold and 75 parts of copper. This 
 forms a very cheap but effective dark red. 
 
 Pure gold varies from a pale yellow to a light copper 
 color, according to the locality in which it is found, and 
 the state in which it occurs in nature, as nuggets, dust, 
 placer gold, quartz rock, etc. In making the alloys care 
 should be taken to use the shade of gold nearest to that 
 desired. Although it is not absolutely essential to do 
 this, much purer colors will be obtained than where this 
 jprecaution is neglected. 
 
 Green Gold. 
 
 1. Melt 750 parts gold, 125 parts silver, 125 parts of 
 cadmium. Incorporate thoroughly, remelting if nec- 
 essary. 
 
 2. Melt 750 parts of gold, 166 parts of silver, 84 parts 
 of cadmium. 
 
 3. Melt 746 parts of gold, 114 parts of silver, 97 parts 
 of copper, 43 parts of cadmium. 
 
92 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 4. Melt 190 parts gold and 50 parts of silver. This 
 has a beautiful green shade. 
 
 Gray Gold. 
 
 1. Melt together 857 parts of gold, 86 parts of silver,. 
 57 parts of iron or steel. 
 
 2. Melt 800 parts of gold and add 200 parts of steel. 
 
 3. Melt 725 parts of gold and 275 parts of silver. 
 
 4. Melt 833 parts of gold and 167 parts of iron. 
 
 Yellow Gold. 
 
 1. Melt 583 parts of "gold, 125 parts of silver, 292 
 parts of copper. Dark yellow. 
 
 2. Melt 900 parts of gold, 100 parts of copper. Forms 
 a deep yellow. 
 
 3. Melt 530 parts of gold, 250 parts of silver, 220 
 parts of copper. Deep yellow. 
 
 4. Melt 666 parts of gold, 194 parts of silver, 139 
 parts of copper. 
 
 5. Melt 750 parts of gold, 146 parts of silver, 104 
 parts of copper. 
 
 6. Melt 666 parts of gold, 333 parts of silver. Pale 
 yellow. 
 
 7. Melt 91.67 'parts of gold, 8.33 parts of iron. Pale 
 yellow. 
 
 8. Melt 91.67 parts of gold, 8.33 parts of silver. Pale 
 yellow. 
 
 9. Melt 50 parts of gold. 50 parts of silver. Very 
 pale yellow. 
 
 10. Pure gold of the early placer diggings, such as is 
 found in old coins, old jewelry, African placer gold, etc.,. 
 is generally of a fine yellow, but very soft. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 93 
 
 Imitation Gold Alloys. 
 
 1. Pure copper, ioo parts; zinc, or preferably, tin, 17 
 parts; magnesia, 6 parts; sal ammoniac, from 3 to 6 
 parts; quicklime, yi part; tartar of commerce, 9 parts. 
 The copper is first melted, and the magnesia, sal ammon- 
 iac, lime and tartar are then added separately and by de- 
 grees, in the form of powder; the whole is now briskly 
 stirred for about one-half hour, so as to mix thoroughly, 
 and then the zinc is added in small grains by throwing it 
 on the surface and stirring till it is entirely fused; the 
 crucible is then covered and fusion maintained for about 
 thirty-five minutes. The surface is then skimmed and 
 the alloy is ready for casting. It has a fine grain, is mal- 
 leable, and takes a splendid polish. It does not corrode 
 readily, and is an excellent substitute for gold for many 
 purposes. When tarnished, its brilliancy can be restored 
 by a little acidulated water. If tin be employed instead 
 of zinc, the alloy will be more brilliant. It is very much 
 used in France, and must ultimately become popular. 
 
 2. Copper, 79.7 parts; zinc, 83.05; nickel, 6.09, with 
 a trace of iron and tin. Called oreide. 
 
 3. Copper, 65.50 parts; platinum, 32 .02 parts; silver, 
 2.48 parts. This alloy has about the color of 9 karat 
 gold. Strong boiling in nitric acid has apparently no 
 effect on it even when left in the acid for some time. 
 
 4. Fuse with saltpeter, sal ammoniac, and powdered 
 charcoal; 4 parts platinum; 2^ parts copper; 1 part 
 zinc; 2 parts tin; 1^ parts lead. Will stand a close ex- 
 amination without detection. 
 
 5. Copper, 11 parts; zinc, 2 parts. Has a rich, deep 
 gold color, is extremely malleable and is employed in 
 making Dutch gold leaf. 
 
94 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 6. Copper, 16 parts; platinum, 7 parts; zinc, 1 part,, 
 fused together. Has about the color of 16 karat gold and 
 will resist cold nitric acid. 
 
 Platinum Alloys. 
 
 Several alloys containing platinum, of a comparatively- 
 inexpensive nature, have been extensively used under the 
 name of platinum bronze. They are not tarnished by the 
 action of air or water, take a high polish and retain their 
 luster for a long time. The great increase in the price of 
 platinum, owing to its extended use in electrical work, for 
 resistances, etc., will probably diminish its use in the arts 
 for a time, unless new sources of supply shall cheapen it 
 again; but as any jeweler is likely to encounter that 
 which is now in existence, we give several of the formulas 
 for these bronzes: 
 
 1. Nickel 900 parts, platinum 9 parts, tin 90 parts. 
 Used for tableware. 
 
 2. Nickel 865 parts, platinum 5 parts, tin 130 parts- 
 Used for jewelry and statuettes. 
 
 3. Nickel 710 parts, platinum 145 parts, tin 145 parts. - 
 Used for tubes of optical instruments. 
 
 4. Nickel 316 parts, platinum 32 parts, brass 652: 
 parts. 
 
 5. Copper 96 parts, platinum 4. Malleable,, rose col- 
 ored and exhibits a fine grained fracture. 
 
 6. Equal parts by weight of copper and platinum. Is. 
 ductile, easily worked, has the color and specific gravity 
 of gold, but tarnishes on exposure to the air. 
 
 Aluminium Alloys. 
 
 Aluminium, or aluminum, is an extremely light, duc- 
 tile and malleable metal, which is rapidly coming into- 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 95, 
 
 favor for many purposes since the great improvements in 
 its manufacture and the consequent reduction in cost. It 
 can now be purchased in quantities at ninety cents per 
 pound, which makes it nearly as cheap as copper, when 
 the great difference in weight of a cubic foot of the two 
 metals is considered. It is silvery in appearance, melts 
 at 1,300 degrees F., has a specific gravity of 2.56 to 
 2.60, which is one-fourth the weight of silver, does not 
 oxidize readily and resists most acids and alkalies, but is 
 very easily attacked by others, especially when heated, 
 or when present during chemical reactions, on other 
 metals. It is three times as ductile as silver, and has 50 
 per cent, more tenacity or strength. Much nonsense has 
 been written about this metal, such as that it is stronger 
 than steel; will not rust; is not attacked by acids, etc., 
 all of which are untrue. _ It is readily attacked by many 
 chlorides, such as common salt, (chloride of sodium), etc., 
 and by some of the organic acids, in which respect it 
 resembles silver. In regard to the hardening, tempering, 
 etc., of the pure metal, comparatively little is known at 
 present; but it is probable that as its use becomes more 
 common it will be greatly improved in these respects, as 
 has been done with iron. At all events, it will have an 
 extended trial in the fine arts and mechanics, and it will 
 probably displace platinum and nickel in the various 
 alloys to a large extent, on account of the great differ- 
 ence in weight. One great difficulty remaining to be 
 overcome is that of soldering. At present it can be sol- 
 dered only by using an alloy of which aluminium forms a 
 part. Several of these solders are given below. 
 
 Aluminium forms alloys with many metals; those with 
 copper, silver and tin are largely employed for many pur- 
 poses, and their use is rapidly extending. The most 
 important are those copper, with which aluminium easily 
 unites. 
 
06 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 Aluminium and Gold. 
 
 i . Gold 99 parts, aluminium i part. A very hard but 
 not ductile alloy possessing the color of green gold. 
 
 2. Aluminium 10 parts, gold 90 parts. White, crys- 
 taline and brittle. 
 
 3. Aluminium 5 parts, gold 95 parts. Brittle as glass. 
 
 4. Aluminium 7^ parts, gold 2 x / 2 parts, copper 100 
 parts. Resembles gold in color, and is much used as a 
 substitute for it in jewelry. 
 
 5. An alloy of aluminium 999 parts, gold 1 part, is as 
 ductile as pure aluminium, but not as hard as the alloys 
 of silver. 
 
 Aluminium and Silver. 
 
 1. Aluminium 97 parts, silver 3 parts. Has a beautiful 
 color and is easily worked and is very valuable for articles 
 in which one of the main objects is to obtain lightness, 
 such as the instruments used for marine observations. 
 Those parts of such instruments which, if made with other 
 metal, would weigh four pounds will, when made of the 
 above alloy, only weigh one pound. 
 
 2. Equal parts by weight of aluminium and silver give 
 an alloy as hard as bronze. 
 
 3. Aluminium 100 parts, silver 5 parts. Can be worked 
 like pure aluminium, but is harder and takes a very high 
 polish. 
 
 4. Aluminium 95 parts, silver 5 parts. Is white, elastic 
 and hard. Used for blades of dessert and fruit knives. 
 
 Aluminium and Copper. 
 
 1. Aluminium 95 parts, copper 5 parts. Patented in 
 the United States by Lange & Sons. It is malleable; can 
 be tempered, and is used for clock springs. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 97 
 
 2. Aluminium 10 parts, copper 90 parts. This is used 
 more than any of the other aluminum bronzes. It is hard, 
 ductile, resembles gold, takes a high polish, does not 
 tarnish readily, gives sharp castings, may be rolled in 
 sheets, is more easily worked than steel, and may be 
 engraved. It is used for many purposes in the arts. It 
 can only be soldered with an aluminum alloy. 
 
 Aluminium and Tin. 
 
 Tin and aluminium give brittle alloys when they con- 
 tain much aluminium and little tin, but those with a small 
 quantity of aluminium are very ductile and may be used 
 as substitutes for tin. 
 
 1. Aluminium 3 parts, tin 100 parts. Hard and not 
 affected by acids. 
 
 2. Aluminium 5 parts, tin 95 parts. Forms a very use- 
 ful alloy for many purposes. 
 
 3. Aluminium 50 parts, tin 50 parts. Bourbonne's 
 alloy. This solders easily. 
 
 4. Aluminium 100 parts, tin 10 parts. 
 
 Aluminium and Zinc. 
 These alloys are very hard and take a beautiful polish, 
 but owing to their brittle and crystalline nature, when 
 much zinc is present, they are but little used. The most 
 useful is aluminium 97 parts, zinc 3 parts. This is as 
 white as the pure metal, ductile and quite hard. The 
 others are used chiefly as solders. 
 
 Aluminium Solders. 
 
 1. Melt 20 parts of aluminum in a crucible, add gradu- 
 ally 80 parts of zinc, stirring with an iron rod. When 
 melted, add some fat, raise the heat until fat ignites, then 
 pour in iron molds. 
 
 7 
 
98 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 2. Aluminum 15 parts, zinc 85 parts. Melt as above. 
 
 3. Aluminium 12 parts, zinc 88 parts. Melt as above. 
 
 4. Aluminium 8 parts, zinc 92 parts. Melt as in the 
 first instance. 
 
 When soldering dip the iron into a flux composed of 
 copaiba balsam 3 parts, Venice turpentine 1 part, lemon 
 juice a few drops. 
 
 Manganese Alloys. 
 
 Manganese has a great affinity for oxygen, and hence 
 has the quality of toughening other metals when present 
 during their melting, by destroying the sub-oxides. It is 
 used with many single metals and also in man}^ alloys. 
 Those used for jewelers' tools etc., are: 
 
 1. Manganese 25.50 parts, copper 54.50 parts, zinc 20 
 parts. 
 
 2. Manganese 13 parts, copper 55.50 parts, zinc 31.50 
 parts. 
 
 3. Manganese 22.25 parts, copper 52.25 parts, zinc 
 25.50 parts. « 
 
 These alloys can all be rolled at a red heat. If it is 
 unnecessary to roll them, iron may be added with advan- 
 tage, for castings etc., as follows: 
 
 4. Iron 5.88 parts, manganese 26.35 parts, copper 56 
 parts, zinc n.77- 
 
 5. Iron 5 parts, manganese 20 parts, coppor 57 parts, 
 zinc 11.50 parts, nickel 6.50 parts. 
 
 Alloys 4 and 5 are nearly white and are much used in 
 cheap plated ware, jeweler's tools, etc. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 99 
 
 Silver Assay with Testing Tubes. 
 
 Place in the tube enough of the pulverized mineral to 
 fill one inch of the space, and on this pour nitric acid in 
 quantity to occupy 2 inches more, and hold the mixture 
 over a flame until the acid boils. The acid will dis- 
 solve whatever silver may be present, and must be 
 passed through filtering paper to remove extraneous 
 matter and return to the tube. Next add a few drops of 
 water saturated with salt; any silver or lead that may be 
 present will be precipitated in a cloudy form to the bot- 
 tom. Drain off the acid, place the percipitate in the sun- 
 light, and in a few minutes, if it contains silver, it will 
 turn to a purple color, and may be again liquified by the 
 addition of spirits of ammonia. The testing tube is 
 formed of thin glass,- about 5 inches long, and less than 
 1 inch diameter; bottom and sides of equal thickness. 
 Where the tube is lacking a cup may be used instead. 
 
 Silver Assay by Smelting. 
 
 If no lead is present, mix 600 grs. of the pulverized 
 ore with 300 grs. carbonate of soda, 600 grs. of litharge, 
 and 12 grs. charcoal in a crucible, add a slight coal of 
 borax over all, put on the furnace, melt, take off, give it 
 a few taps to settle the metal, let it cool and remove the 
 button. 
 
 Fictitious Silver. 
 
 1. Silver 1 oz., nickel, 1 oz. 11 dwts, copper, 2 oz. 9 
 
 dwts. 
 
 2. Silver 3 oz., nickel, 1 oz. 11 dwts.. copper, 2 oz. 9 
 dwts., spelter 10 dwts. 
 
 Imitation Silver Alloys. 
 1. Copper 64 parts, tin 3 parts. 
 
ioo watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 2. Copper 75 parts, tin 25 parts. Called white 
 tombac. 
 
 3. Tin 85^ parts, antimony 14^ parts. Called argen- 
 tia. Used for spoons and forks. 
 
 4. Copper 50; nickel 26; zinc 24. Closely resembles 
 silver and takes a high polish. 
 
 5. White copper. See Nickel Alloys 7 and 8. 
 
 6. Copper 56; nickel 24; zinc'i6; tin 3; iron 2. Used 
 extensively for spoons. Sold as German plate. 
 
 7. Copper 100 parts; nickel 70 parts; aluminium 1 
 part; tungslate of iron 5 parts. Called Minargeul. 
 
 8. Tin 87.50 parts; nickel 5.50 parts; antimony 5 parts; 
 bismuth 2 parts. Called Trabak metal. 
 
 9. Tin 10 parts; bismuth 7 parts; nickel 7 parts; 
 cobalt 3 parts. Called Warne metal. 
 
 See also the various nickel and aluminium alloys. 
 
 Nickel Alloys. 
 
 1. Copper 40; zinc 32; nickel 8. Called Albata. 
 
 2. Copper 60; zinc 30; nickel 10; iron a trace. Called 
 Alfenide. 
 
 3. Copper 15; zinc 70: nickel 6. Called White 
 Argentan. 
 
 4. Copper 50; nickel 20; zinc 30. German silver; very 
 malleable and takes a high polish. 
 
 5. Copper 50; nickel 26; zinc 24. Closely resembles 
 silver. Takes a high polish. 
 
 6. Copper 50; nickel 50; zinc 50. Very white and 
 malleable and takes a high polish. Recommended as a 
 substitute for silver. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. IOI 
 
 7- Copper 30; nickel 36; zinc 34. Said to be the 
 Chinese formula for white copper. 
 
 8. Copper 41; nickel 32; iron 2^; zinc 24^. Sil- 
 very white, sonorous, malleable and ductile. Takes a 
 high polish. Said to equal the Chinese white copper. 
 
 Alloy for Compensation Balances. 
 
 Berguet used for his compensation balances the follow- 
 ing alloy: Silver, 2 parts, by weight; copper 2 parts; 
 zinc 1 part. First melt the silver, and throw in the zinc, 
 reduced to small pieces, stirring the metals and leaving 
 it on the fire for as short a time as possible, to prevent 
 the volatilization of the latter metal; then pour it out and 
 let it get cold. Melt the copper and add the cold alloy, 
 stirring the three together until intimately mixed, Pour 
 out, cut into pieces, and smelt anew, to obtain a perfect 
 incorporation. Be careful, however, to leave the alloy 
 as short a time as possible over the fire, because the zinc 
 dissipates easily. This alloy is hard, elastic, very ductile, 
 and quickly smelts in the furnace. It does not stand 
 much hammering. 
 
 Bell Metals. 
 
 1. Copper 72, tin 26^, iron \]/ 2 parts. Used for the 
 gongs of French clocks. 
 
 2. Copper 78, tin 22 parts. Used for large gongs, 
 bells, etc. 
 
 3. Copper 60, tin 24, zinc 9, iron 3. Used for Kara 
 Kanes or Japanese gongs of the first quality, and also for 
 small bells. 
 
 4. Copper 60, tin 15, zinc 3, lead 8. For second 
 quality Kara Kanes. 
 
It) 2 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 5. Copper 60, tin 18, zinc 6, lead 12, iron 3. For large 
 bells and third quality Kara Kanes. 
 
 6. Copper 72, tin 25.56, silver 1.44. For clock bells. 
 
 7. Copper 17, tin 80, bismuth 3. For white table 
 bells. 
 
 8. Copper 100, tin 20. Melt under charcoal. Pro- 
 duct very fine. 
 
 9. Copper 1, tin 3. Soft, for musical bells. Bluish 
 red. 
 
 10. Copper 1, tin 4. Ash gray. For house bells. 
 
 Black Bronze. 
 
 Tin 5 parts, copper 83 parts, lead 10 parts, zinc 2 parts. 
 Castings made of this alloy, when heated in a muffle after 
 finishing, quickly assume a dead black appearance, which 
 is not a scale or coating, but is inherent in the metal. It 
 is much used in Japanese bronze objects of art, statuettes, 
 etc. 
 
 Violet Bronze. 
 
 Copper 75 parts, antimony 25 parts. Has a violet tinge 
 of variable shade according to the shade of the copper 
 and the proportions of antimony. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. IO3 
 
 SPRINGS. 
 
 Balances. 
 
 A gold balance is preferable to a steel balance. The 
 latter metal has the advantage of being less affected by 
 alteration of temperature, but, on the other hand, gold is 
 denser than steel and is not liable to rust or magnetize. 
 
 Balance Spring. 
 
 The study of the balance must be of the greatest im- 
 portance to the watchmaker, because with it chiefly is he 
 able to control the rate of the watch. The great ad- 
 vantage of an overcoil spring is that it distends in 
 action on both sides, and the balance pivots are thereby 
 relieved of the side pressure given with the ordinary flat 
 spring. The Breguet spring, in common with the helical 
 and all other forms in which the outer coil returns towards 
 the center, offers opportunities of obtaining isochronism 
 by slightly varying the character of the curve described 
 by the outer coil, and thereby altering its power of 
 resistance. 
 
 Caution About Breguet Springs. 
 
 A Breguet spring should never be applied to a watch 
 with an index. It is perhaps the best form of spring for 
 a pocket watch, having all the properties in action of the 
 cylindrical spring, and the great advantage of flatness in 
 form, but any attempts at producing a good timekeeper 
 with this spring and curb pins will end in failure. And 
 any attempt at getting time in positions by pressing the 
 outer coil of the flat spring against the outer or inner pin 
 is mere jobbing, and, even if successful, would require to 
 
104 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 be repeated every time the balance had to be taken out. 
 For flat springs with regulators it would be highly advis- 
 able to pin a spring into the collet, in order to get the stud 
 hole and curb pins to correspond. The end of the over 
 coil of a Breguet spring should run into hole in the stud 
 before being pinned in, and if the stud is screwed into the 
 cock without the balance it will easily be seen if the jewel 
 hole is in the center of the' hole in the spring collet, as it 
 should be. This spring should also be pinned at equal 
 turns. 
 
 To Demagnetize a Balance and Hairspring. 
 
 Remove roller and hair-spring (if not affected). Put 
 in lathe, hold a magnet quite close at first, revolving the 
 balance rapidly; then gradually draw the magnet away 
 to a distance of a foot or more. Keep the speed up all 
 the time. 
 
 To Prevent Rust. 
 
 It is well known that the rusting of bright steel goods 
 is due to the precipitation of the moisture and the air upon 
 it. This may be obviated by keeping the air surrounding 
 the goods dry, and a saucer of powdered quicklime placed 
 in an ordinary show case will usually suffice to prevent 
 the rusting of the cutlery exhibited therein. 
 
 To Prevent Rusty Hairsprings. 
 
 Brush the outside of the paper parcel, containing the 
 springs, with olive oil — a small quantity only. 
 
 Relation of Mainspring to Barrel. 
 
 If we wish to have a mainspring theoretically adjusted, 
 there is no better method than simply to allow one-third 
 empty space, one-third for the barrel arbor and the 
 remainder for the spring. When a spring is at rest on 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 105 
 
 the barrel, at either side of the arbor it should occupy 
 one-sixth of the barrel's inside diameter. If we divide a 
 barrel into sixty equal parts, we shall always see that the 
 barrel arbor is just twenty of these parts. It is a great 
 mistake to have a barrel arbor too small, for when such 
 is the case it is almost sure to break the mainspring if the 
 center is at all stubborn, as is very often the case with the 
 cheap class of mainsprings in the market. 
 
 Hardening Gold Springs. 
 
 To gold detent, thermometer, suspension and balance 
 springs can be imparted a high degree of elasticity. Roll- 
 ing hardens them, but they are rendered very brittle 
 thereby. They can be made pliable and elastic, not bj' 
 hardening, as in the case of steel, but by annealing, care 
 being taken not to exceed a certain degree of heat. The 
 spring may be coiled on a block and placed in a tube, with 
 a smooth steel lid; then heat the tube in the flame of a 
 spirit lamp, and as soon as the steel is of a blue temper, 
 remove the flame and allow the whole to cool. 
 
 Isochronism of Balance Springs. 
 
 The balance spring, of whatever form, to be isochro- 
 nous must satisfy the following conditions: Its center of 
 gravity must always be on the axis of the balance, and it 
 must expand and contract in the vibrations concentrically 
 with that axis. When these conditions are secured in a 
 properly made spring it will possess the quality of iso- 
 chronism — that is, its force will increase in proportion to 
 the tension, and it will not exert any lateral pressure on 
 the pivots. M. Phillips, in his memoir, demonstrates these 
 conditions, and proves theoretically that the terminal 
 curves deduced with the view of satisfying the one con- 
 dition, verify at the same time the other. 
 
io6 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 WHEELS AND PINIONS. 
 
 To Bush a Wheel. 
 
 A watch will frequently stop, because a wheel is im- 
 properly centered in itself, whereby one side will gear too 
 deep, the other too shallow, into the pinion driven by it. 
 Such a wheel likely is of the proper size, and has good 
 teeth, but the difficulty is its proper centering, when fitted 
 to its pinion. The following will be found an easy wa} r 
 of correction : Take a piece of lead of about the thickness 
 of a silver half dollar, and clip and file it round so that it 
 will lit into one of the larger steps in a step chuck of an 
 American lathe. Screw it fast into the lathe, and while 
 revolving, center and drill a hole of about the size of a 
 winding arbor. Then with a graver, turn out a recess, 
 the size and a trifle more than the thickness of the wheel, 
 so that it will fit in exact, with its teeth touching the out- 
 side of the cut. Drive the wheel from its pinion, and 
 broach out the center, so as to take a bush of sufficient 
 length, which should be firmly riveted in and filed smooth 
 on the lower sides. Turn a small groove around the out- 
 side of the cut in the lead, crowd in the wheel, with a 
 burnisher set as a gavel. This fixes the wheel perfectly 
 true on the outside. Now center and drill, leaving a 
 little to be turned and with a fine polished graver, to fit 
 the same pinion. Rivet on, and your wheel is all right. 
 
 Scape-Wheel Teeth. 
 
 Among other differences between English and Swiss 
 watches are the shapes of their scape- wheels; those of 
 the former are pointed, while the latter employ the 
 socalled club-tooth, and' experience has demonstrated that 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 107 
 
 the pointed tooth is better than the latter. The reason 
 that club-teeth for lever scape-wheels, prove to be in- 
 ferior, is because of the adhesion of the nearly parallel 
 surfaces when all is introduced; the increased inertia also 
 being detrimental. It will be found on comparing the 
 two wheels, that the club-tooth will give the largest vibra- 
 tion of the two without oil, and when the oil is fresh, be- 
 cause there is less drop; but this adhesion, when the oil 
 is thick, together with the increased inertia, more than 
 counteracts its advantages. 
 
 Putting Teeth Into Wheels. 
 
 To put in teeth in watch or clock wheels without dove- 
 ' tailing or soldering them, drill a hole somewhat wider 
 than the tooth, square through the plate, a little below 
 the base of the tooth. Cut from the edge of the wheel, 
 square down to the hole already drilled; then flatten a 
 piece of wire so as to fit snugly into the cut of the saw, 
 and with a light hammer form a head on it like the head 
 of a pin. When thus prepared, press the wire or pin 
 into the empty space of the wheel, the head filling the 
 hole drilled through the plate, and then projecting out so 
 as to form the tooth; then with a sharp pointed graver 
 cut a small groove each side of the pin from the edge of 
 the wheel down to the hole, and with a blow of your 
 hammer spread the face of the pin so as to fill the groove 
 just cut. Repeat the same operation on the other side 
 of the wheel and finish off in the usual way. The tooth 
 will be found perfectly rivited in on every side and as 
 strong as the original one, while in appearance it will be 
 equal to the best dovetailed job. 
 
 To Grind Down Plates or Wheels. 
 
 The stoning down of plates or wheels with emery or 
 bluestone is rather a tedious job, especially for him who 
 
io8 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 has much of it to do. It can be made easier, however, 
 by using a little soap. The work is more rapidly per- 
 formed and finer stoning is obtained. 
 
 Butting. 
 
 The tendency of pinion leaves to butt the wheel tooth 
 when coming into contact is caused either by the bad 
 shape of the teeth or the leaves, or by using a pinion of 
 an improper size, or by the wheel and pinion being placed 
 at an incorrect distance from each other. 
 
 To Remedy Worn Pinions. 
 
 Turn the leaves or rollers so that the worn places upon 
 them will be toward the arbor or shaft and fasten them 
 in that position. If they are " rolling pinions," and can- 
 not be secured otherwise, it will be better to do it with a 
 little soft solder. 
 
 To Tighten a Canon Pinion. 
 
 The canon pinion is sometimes too loose upon the cen- 
 ter arbor. Grasp the arbor lightly with a pair of cutting- 
 nippers, and by a single turn of the nippers around the 
 arbor, cut or raise a small thread thereon. 
 
 Pinion Diameter. 
 
 The following are excellent rules for determining the 
 correct diameter of a pinion by measuring teeth of the 
 wheel that seizes into it. The term, full, used below, 
 indicates full measure from outside to outside of the teeth 
 named, and the term center the measure from the center 
 of one tooth to the center of the other tooth named, in- 
 clusive. For diameter of a pinion of 15 leaves meas- 
 ure, with calipers, a shade less then 6 teeth of the 
 wheel, full. For diameter of a pinion of 14 leaves 
 measure, with calipers, a shade less than 6 teeth of the 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. IO9 
 
 wheel, center. For diameter of a pinion of 12 leaves 
 measure, with calipers, 5 teeth of the wheel, center. For 
 diameter of a pinion of 10 leaves measure, with calipers, 
 4 teeth of the wheel, full. For diameter of a 
 pinion of 9 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less 
 than 4 teeth of the wheel, full. For diameter of a 
 pinion of 8 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less than 
 4 teeth of the wheel, center. For diameter of a pinion 
 of 7 leaves measure, with calipers, a little less than 
 3 teeth of the wheel, full. For diameter of a pinion 
 6 leaves, measure with calipers, 3 teeth of the Wheel, 
 center. For diameter of a pinion of 5 leaves, measure 
 with calipers, 3 teeth of the wheel, center. As a general 
 rule, pinions that lead, as in the hour wheel, should be 
 somewhat larger than those that drive,and pinions of clocks 
 should generally be somewhat larger proportionally 
 than those of watches. 
 
IIO WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 JEWELS. 
 
 New Jewels. 
 
 The bad action of a watch may frequently be traced 
 to imperfect jewels. The repairer should carefully 
 examine every jewel in a watch taken down for repairs, 
 and if he finds one with the hole too large, or out of 
 round, that is much wider in one direction than in 
 another, it should be replaced by a good one, in the fol- 
 lowing manner: If the depth is correct, notice whether 
 the jewel is above or below the surface of the plate; if it 
 is either, then knock it out and cement the plate or bridge 
 on a chuck in the lathe, being careful to get it on true by 
 the hole lately occupied by the jewel. By means of a 
 burnisher raise the burr that holds the jewel in, and if a 
 jewel can be found of the proper size and thickness, and 
 the hole not to large, it can be readily " rubbed in " with 
 the burnisher; if the hole is too small, it can be opened. 
 The chuck on which the article is cemented should have 
 a hole from a quarter to a half an inch deep in its center. 
 If no jewels can be found of the right size and thickness, 
 select one a little too large, enlarge the hole sufficiently 
 to put the jewel in and then proceed to fasten it. If the 
 jewel is broken, of course the same remarks apply to 
 replacing it with a good one. One difficulty which the 
 watchmaker has to contend with, in selecting a jewel 
 from the indifferent lot supplied by some dealers, is to 
 find one, the hole of which is in the center of the jewel. 
 If a jewel is not true, or rather, if the hole in it is not in 
 the center, it must be cemented into a chuck in the lathe, 
 trued up by the hole, then turned off with a diamond 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Ill 
 
 cutter, and the chamfer carefully trued up and polished 
 again; while in the lathe it can be turned down to fit the 
 hole in the setting. The shellac is to be removed from 
 the plate with alcohol. In many instances a chuck will 
 have to be turned up to suit the particular job to be done. 
 Care must be taken in opening., or the jewel will break 
 or chip around the hole. The corners must be carefully 
 rounded by a piece of wire larger than the hole, the end 
 of which is conical. It will take but a moment to do this, 
 but if care is not taken too much will be taken off. 
 
 Replace a Broken Foot Jewel. 
 
 Remove the broken jewel from the collet or setting; 
 place the collet or setting in one of your lathe-chucks, 
 large enough to hold the same; start in motion, and with 
 a fine-pointed burnisher raise the bezel sufficient to 
 receive a new jewel; select a jewel to fit both pivot and 
 setting, replace in chuck, and with a little larger burn- 
 isher close down the bezel on pivot, and your job is com- 
 plete. 
 
 To Test the Quality of Watch Jewels. 
 
 Place the jewel on a piece of charcoal, and with the 
 blow-pipe and spirit lamp bring it to a bright cherry red. 
 If the stone is perfect and of the proper density, the heat 
 will not affect it; otherwise, the heat will bring out the 
 imperfections, which can easily be detected with a double 
 lens glass. To ascertain if a jewel hole is perfectly pol- 
 ished, place a piece of white paper on your work board 
 and hold the jeweled plate about two inches above the 
 paper and parallel to it, so as to allow the light to pass 
 between the plate and the paper; shade the jewel with a 
 small ring to prevent the light from reflecting from the 
 top of the stone, and with your double lens glass look 
 straight through the jewel hole to the paper. If it is 
 
112 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 perfectly polished it will appear to have a fine black ring 
 around the inside of the hole. If the jewel is a ruby or 
 a garnet, use black paper instead of white. 
 
 Ruby Pin. 
 
 If it is necessary to tighten a ruby pin, set it in asphal- 
 tum varnish. It will become hard in a few minutes, and 
 be much firmer and better than in gum shellac as gen- 
 erally used. 
 
 Removing Jewels. 
 
 Jewels can be removed from full plates by putting the 
 plate into a glass tumbler and pouring on nitric acid. The 
 jewels will become loose and drop out after a little time. 
 Wash the jewels well with a little soda or ammonia. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. II3 
 
 PIVOTS AND STAFFS. 
 
 To Measure Length of Staff. 
 
 The proper way to measure for the length of staff is, 
 first, to take off both end stones, fit the balance cock 
 properly to the plate (level, etc.), and screw it fast in its 
 place. Then, with the degree gauge, take the measure 
 from the outside of one hole jewel to the outside of the 
 other one, and to this add the amount of end shake the 
 staff is to have, which gives the exact length of the staff 
 between the extreme ends of the pivots. The length 
 should be such that when- one pivot rests against its end 
 stone the top pivot shall come level with the outer surface 
 of its hole jewel, and the same when resting on the other 
 pivot. The end shake should be equal to the distance 
 from the outer surface of the hole jewel to the adjacent 
 surface of its end stone when fastened in place. If this 
 distance is neither too great nor small (the jewels must 
 not touch), the end shake will be correct. A safe way 
 for length is to take the outside measure from the surface 
 of the sink in which the bottom end stone fitting rests, to 
 the top surface of the balance cock. Then, having 
 screwed on one of the end stones, shorten up either or 
 both pivots of the finished staff a trifle, to bring the top 
 end of the other pivot level with the surface of its hole 
 jewel as before explained. 
 
 Shape of Pivots. 
 
 Pivots must be hard, round and well polished; their 
 shoulders are to be flat, not too large, with ends well 
 rounded off so that they do not wear the cap jewel. The 
 
114 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 jewel holes must be round, smooth and not larger than is 
 requisite for the free motion of the pivot which is sur- 
 rounded with oil. Their sides must be parallel to those of 
 the pivots, so that they sustain the pressure of the pivot 
 equally at all points of their length. The holes, if of 
 brass or gold, must have been hammered sufficiently hard, 
 so that the pores of the metal are closed to prevent too 
 rapid a wear. It is well if the oil sinks are of a size that 
 will accommodate a sufficient quantity of oil, which, if 
 too little, would soon dry out or become thickened with 
 the worn-off particles of the metal. The under turnings 
 of the pinion leaves are conical, but in such a way that 
 the thicker part be nearest to the pivot, because by this 
 disposition the oil is retained at the pivot by attraction, 
 and does not seek to spread into the pinion leaves, as is 
 often the case, especially with flat watches in which this 
 provision is frequently slighted. 
 
 Friction of the Train Pivots. 
 
 It is very important to reduce the friction of the wheel 
 pivots to a minimum quantity, and to make it constant so 
 that the motive power be transmitted with the greatest 
 possible uniformity to the pendulum, which is necessary 
 to enable the latter to maintain its arc of oscillation of the 
 same magnitude. The friction of the pivots is due to the 
 pressure of the motive power and the weight of the 
 wheels. The wheel work nearest the motive power must 
 have strong pivots so that they possess sufficient resist- 
 ance, neither wear the pivot holes to one side nor enlarge 
 them, by which the friction would be increased and at the 
 same time alter the true point of engagement. In tenor 
 with the distance of the wheels from the motive power, 
 the thickness of their pivots must decrease because these 
 latter sustain less pressure, and are subject to a greater 
 velocity than the first parts. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. n^ 
 
 Barrel Arbor. 
 
 In the absence of a suitable tap or screw plate, when 
 turning in a Swiss barrel arbor, if the collet is good it 
 may be used as a plate. Soften the collet and file two 
 slight passages across the threads with a fine three-cor- 
 nered file; screw a piece of brass wire through the collet, 
 so as to free the threads from burr; then re-harden the 
 collet and cut the screw on the arbor with it. A pair of 
 pliers with faces curved to suit the collet are used to hold 
 it. In an emergency the old arbor may be prepared for 
 use as a tap if the old collet is not available. 
 
1 10 watchmakers' and jewelers' 
 
 DRILLS AND DRILLING. 
 
 Diamond Drills and Gravers. 
 
 Drill a hole or file a notch in the end of a piece of 
 "brass wire to correspond with the fragment of diamond; 
 heat the end in a spirit lamp and lay it on a piece of good 
 sealing wax or shellac. When this commences to melt, 
 set the diamond in position and leave the whole to cool. 
 Diamond drills are very commonly mounted at the end of 
 a pin that has had it point filed off; mark a point on the 
 end with a graver and drill the hole, which should be 
 very shallow. Holding the pin in a pin vise, with its point 
 projecting about one-tenth of an inch, heat the vise in a 
 lamp, and proceed as above explained. 
 
 To Drill into Hard Steel. 
 
 Make your drill oval in form, instead of the usual 
 pointed shape, and temper as hard as it will bear without 
 breaking; then roughen the surface where you desire to 
 drill with a little diluted muriatic acid, and, instead of oil, 
 use turpentine or kerosene, in which a little gum camphor 
 has been dissolved, with your drill. In operating, keep 
 the pressure on your drill firm and steady; and if the 
 bottom of the hole should chance to become burnished, 
 so the drill will not act, as sometimes happens, again 
 roughen with diluted acids as before; then clean out the 
 hole carefully and proceed again. 
 
 The Rose Cutter. 
 The rose cutter is quite a valuable adjunct to a lathe, 
 and is fixed to the spindle in the same manner as a chuck, 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. Il7 
 
 and will be found exceedingly useful for quickly reducing 
 pieces of wire for screws, etc., to a gauge. For screws, 
 the wire should be of a proper size for the screw heads, 
 and a cutter selected with a hole the size of the finished 
 screw. The point of the wire is rounded to enter the 
 hole of the cutter, against which it is forced by the back 
 center of the lathe, the serrated face of the cutter rapidly 
 cutting away the superfluous metal, the part intended for 
 the screw passes into the hole in the cutter. Some care 
 is required in rounding the point of the wire, for if not 
 done equally all around, the screw will not be true to the 
 head. 
 
 To Drill Enamel Dials. 
 
 You may have to drill or broach holes in enamel dials. 
 For this purpose use a flat ended drill or concial broach 
 of copper, into which diamond powder has been ham- 
 mered. A graver kept moistened with turpentine is 
 sometimes used. The edges of the holes in dials may be 
 trimmed with corundum sticks, to be obtained at material 
 shops. 
 
 Carbolic Acid on Metal Cutting Tools. 
 
 Carbolic acid is recommended for moistening the tools 
 with which metals are worked. The efficiency of the 
 grindstone is even said to be increased by the use of the 
 acid. The dark and impure acid can be used for this 
 purpose. 
 
 To Drill Pearls. 
 
 The easiest way to hold pearls, in order to drill and 
 otherwise cut them, is to fit them loosely in holes bored 
 in a piece of wood. A few drops of water sprinkled 
 about the holes causes the wood fibers to swell and hold 
 the pearls firmly. When the wood dries they fall out. 
 
II 8 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Pivot Holes. 
 
 A pivot hole is always broached from the inside until 
 the pivot fits; then use a chamferer upon the plate to give 
 the necessary shake. If the underlay in riveting was a 
 nicely polished anvil, and the shake suffices, it is not 
 necessary to chamfer. Then make the oil sink from the 
 outside. 
 
 Square Holes. 
 
 To file a square hole, it is necessary to reverse the 
 work very often ; a square file should first be used, and 
 the holes finished with either a diamond-shaped file or a 
 half-round. This leaves the corners square, as they 
 properly should be. 
 
 To Broach a Hole Vertically. 
 
 It is quite a serious thing for young watchmakers to 
 broach a hole vertically; a hole in a plate, for instance, 
 that in a barrel, is seldom maintained at right angles to 
 the surface, when they have occasion to employ a broach. 
 They may be certain of success, however, by adopting 
 the following method: Take a cork of a diameter rather 
 less than that of the barrel or other object operated upon, 
 and make a hole in the length of the cork through which 
 the broach can be passed. When the cock has turned 
 quite true on its end and edge, the broach is passed 
 through, and used to enlarge the hole; by pressing 
 against the back of the cock, it is kept against the barrel, 
 whereby the broach is maintained in a vertical position. 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. II9 
 
 To Fit a Bush. 
 
 After repairing the pivot, a bush is selected as small 
 as the pivot will admit. Open the hole of the plate 
 or cock so that the bush, which previously should be 
 lightly draw-filed at the end, will stand with a slight pres- 
 sure upright in the opened hole of the plate or cock; 
 then, with a knife, cut it across at the part where it is to 
 be broken off so that it may break very readily when 
 required to do so. Press it in the plate on the side the 
 pivot works, break off, and then drive it home with a 
 small center punch. In every repair of this nature, notice 
 should be taken of the amount of end shake of the pinion, 
 and allowance made by leaving the bush so that any 
 excess may be corrected. To finish off the shoulder end, 
 a small chamfering tool should be used. It has a hole 
 smaller than the pivot one to receive a fine brass wire, 
 serving as a center to prevent the tool from changing its 
 position while being used; or the wire may be put 
 through the bush holes, and the hole of the tool left 
 open. The- above is a far more expeditious way than 
 using the lathe. 
 
 The Functions of Oil Sinks. 
 
 Oil sinks are formed in watch and clock plates so that 
 by capillary attractions the oil is kept close to the pivot 
 instead of spreading over the plate, and back slopes are 
 formed on the arbors so that the oil may not be drawn 
 all up the body of the arbor. The "attraction " is some- 
 times negative and becomes a repulsion, as is the case 
 with mercury in a glass tube. It is still called capillarity, 
 whether the fluid is raised above its natural level or de- 
 pressed below it . 
 
 With regard to oil sinks, the views of watchmakers 
 differ. One is in favor of large, the other of small sinks. 
 
120 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS' 
 
 Needlessly large, flat oil sinks, as well as projecting* 
 bushes, both labor under disadvantages; the former of 
 permitting to escape, and the latter of attracting the oil 
 from the spots where it is wanted. With large sinks the 
 oil spreads very easily and becomes contaminated with 
 dust and fibers, while projecting bushes prevent the oil 
 from again returning to the pivots. 
 
 To Remove Broken Screws. 
 
 Any one having an American lathe, can, with small 
 expense of time and labor, make a small attachment which 
 will easily and quickly remove a broken screw from the 
 plate or pillar of any watch. 
 
 Take two common steel watch keys having hardened 
 and tempered pipes — size, four or five — having care that 
 the squares in each are of the same size and a good 
 depth. Cut off the pipes about half an inch from the end ' r 
 file up one of these for about half its length, on three 
 equal sides, to fit one of the large split chucks of the lathe. 
 Drill a hole in one of the brass centers of the lathe of suf- 
 ficient size and depth, into which insert the other key- 
 pipe, and fasten with a little soft solder. Soften a piece 
 of Stub's wire, to work easily in the lathe, and turn down 
 for an eighth of an inch from the end to a size a little 
 smaller than the broken screw in the plate; finish with a 
 conical shoulder, for greater strength, and cross-file the 
 end with a fine slot or knife-edge file, that the tool may 
 not slip on the end of the broken screw; cut off the wire 
 a half inch from the end, and file down to a square that 
 will fit closely into one of the key-pipes. Make a second 
 point like the first one and fit to the other key-pipe r 
 harden in oil, polish, and temper to a dark straw color. 
 Fit the brass center into the tail stock. To use, put the 
 tools in place in the lathe, place the broken end of the 
 screw against the end of the point in the lathe head ; slide 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 121 
 
 up the back center and fasten the point firmly against the 
 other end of the screw, that it may not slip or turn; 
 revolve the plate slowly, and the broken screw, being 
 held fast between the two points, will be quickly removed. 
 To remove a broken pillar screw: Place the broken 
 screw against the point in the lathe-head, holding the 
 plate firmly with the right hand, the pillar on a line with 
 the lathe center; turn the lathe-head slowly backward 
 with the left hand, and the screw will be removed. 
 Should the tool slip on the broken screw, and fail to draw 
 it out, drill a hole in the pillar from the lower or dial side, 
 down to the screw point, (if the size of the pillar in the 
 plate will admit of so doing), and with the second point 
 in the back center, remove the screw in the same manner 
 as the plate screw in the first process. Five or six sizes 
 of these points will be found sufficient for a majority of 
 these breakages that may occur. 
 
 Cutting Screw Threads. 
 
 It is quite a knack to make a nice screw, and beginners 
 are generally apt to use too much force when cutting the 
 thread. If the spindle has been turned too large for the 
 hole in the screw-plate there is danger of breaking the 
 screw-plate, which is over hard, and pieces will chip off; 
 again, the piece to be tapped is apt to break and stop up 
 the hole in the plate, thereby entailing the tedious job of 
 drilling the piece out and cleaning the thread. It is better 
 to begin with a hole much too large and working down 
 gradually. It is natural that a certain amount of force 
 must be employed, and a little practice will soon teach the 
 beginner how much to insure a full good thread. Now, 
 put the screw back in the lathe, and turn the head a little 
 more than the required thickness, and cut the screw off 
 by turning a groove out. 
 
122 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 Fitting - the Hands. 
 
 If the body of the canon pinion will not bear turning 
 in fitting it to the hour wheel, the hour wheel should be 
 opened in the mandrel, as it can not be kept true by- 
 opening the hole in the fingers. Fitting the hands to a 
 watch deserves more care and attention than are gener- 
 ally given to it. The wav hands are commonly fitted to 
 watches is bad in principle. The pipe of the hour wheel 
 is left too long, and that of the minute hand too short, 
 and when the end shake of the hour hand is adjusted, as 
 it usually is, lay the boss on the hour wheel and the dial, 
 the end shake of the center wheel affects it, sometimes 
 giving it too much and bending the hour hand by its 
 catching the minute hand either in setting the hands or 
 in the going of the ■ watch. In fitting the hands, the 
 examiner should fit the glass, if to a hunting case, as 
 high as the case will admit, ascertain the space available 
 by placing a piece of beeswax on the dial and pressing 
 the glass down on it, and turn the canon pinion until it 
 projects from the dial the height of the beeswax; the 
 hour wheel pipe should rise just perceptibly above the 
 dial, and the end shake of the hour hand be adjusted by 
 the pipe of the minute hand and that of the hour wheel. 
 
 Concerning the Rate of a Watch. 
 
 When the watch is wound up, and has a lame motion 
 and at last comes to a stop, either the male stop has 
 wedged itself under the female stop in the last winding, 
 or, if it should be a little smaller, then the former applied 
 to a shoulder of the latter, or, the spring is too broad by 
 one number, and, when the barrel cover is pressed in a 
 little, a friction will occur, or finally, the hole is not located 
 in the center of the spring. The first coil of the spring 
 in this case comes to a stand above the spring core, in con- 
 sequence of which the inner end of the spring rubs on 
 
PRACTICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 1 23 
 
 the cover or bottom of the barrel, whereby the spring is 
 pinched in, and thus contracts its elasticity, which has 
 happened to me several times. I took out the spring, 
 filed the two inner sides of the spring a little smaller, 
 rounded their edges with the graver, and with a round 
 file filed the hole in the center. It also happens some- 
 times that the spring hook is not located exactly in the 
 center of the spring core; there are also springs of an 
 inferior qualitv, that lose their elasticity after several 
 weeks or months, whereby the watch makes a lame 
 motion and stops after from 10 to 12 hours. It may also 
 occur that the balance spring works loose,, which defect 
 also produces a slow motion and finally stoppage; this 
 will occur only, however, when the watch has been 
 wound too quickly, whereby the balance is transported 
 into unduly large vibrations. 
 
 To Detect a Magnetized Watch. 
 
 Every watchmaker should have a fair-sized pocket 
 compass placed on or gummed to the under side of the 
 showcase glass, and to try every watch that comes in, in 
 the presence of the customer. Place the watch a little 
 to the east or west of the compass, and revolve it slowly; 
 if the watch is magnetized, the compass will move to the 
 right and left as the watch is revolved ; if it is not, the 
 compass will remain stationary, while the watch is kept 
 due east or west of the same. 
 
 Repairing Cylinder Watches. 
 
 It frequently happens that the cylinder edges are worn 
 off, and it does not pay to put in a new cylinder; the 
 watch may, nevertheless, be put into keeping a good rate 
 by altering the escapement. Look at the cylinder and 
 see if there is room either above or below the old wears 
 to shift the action of the wheel. If the wheel holes are 
 
124 WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS 
 
 of brass, make one a little deeper, and put a shallower 
 one on the other side — this may perhaps be sufficient. 
 This must be done according as you want your wheel up 
 or down. If the holes are stone, shift your wheel on the 
 pinion by a new collet, or turning away more of the old 
 one, as the case may require. If you raise your wheel, 
 see that that it works free of plate and top of cylinder, 
 and that the web of wheel clears the top of passage. 
 This last fault may be altered by polishing the passage a 
 little wider, if the rub is slight. If shifted downward, see 
 to freedom at the bottom of cylinder, etc. 
 
 Reducing Diameter of a Watch Glass. 
 
 The diameter of a watch glass can be reduce by cen- 
 tering in a lathe, chucking it between two pieces of cork, 
 or a pair of cork arbors, and applying a moistened piece 
 of glass to the edge, or an emery stick. When the 
 desired diameter is attained, polish the edge with pumice 
 stone> followed by putty powder applied on a wet cork. 
 
 To Remove Name from Dial. 
 
 Take a little diamond powder made into a paste with 
 fine oil, on the end of a copper polisher, the surface of 
 which has been freshly riled and slightly rounded. On 
 rubbing the marks, they will be seen to rapidly disappear. 
 The surface is left a little dull; it may be rendered bright 
 by rubbing with the same powder mixed with a greater 
 quantity of oil, and applied with a stick of pegwood. 
 Operators will do well to previously experiment with 
 several degrees of fineness of the powder on old dials. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PA«E 
 
 Acid Coloring Small Articles 31 
 
 Alabaster 5 
 
 Arloys 8S 
 
 for Compensation Balance. 101 
 
 Manganese 9S 
 
 Nickel 100 
 
 for Bells 101 
 
 Aluminium Alloys .. 94 
 
 to Polish '... 47 
 
 to Solder 62 
 
 Aluminium Solders 97 
 
 Aluminium and Gold Alloys. 96 
 
 and Silver Alloys 96 
 
 and Copper Alloys 96 
 
 and Tin Alloys 97 
 
 and Zinc Alloys 97 
 
 Amber Cement 3 
 
 Aniline Bronzing Fluid 29 
 
 Annealing 74 
 
 Small Steel Pieces 74 
 
 Springs 75 
 
 Steel... 7S 
 
 Staff or Pinion 76 
 
 Antique Bronze, Imitation of 29 
 
 Green 31 
 
 Silver, Imitation of 25 
 
 Arbor, Barrel _ 115 
 
 Barrel Arbor 115 
 
 Bell Metals 101 
 
 Bending Tempered Steel So 
 
 Black Bronzi 102 
 
 Bleaching Ivory 4S 
 
 Bluing Pan 77 
 
 Steel 28 
 
 of Screws 2S 
 
 Bone acid Horn Cements 10 
 
 Brass, Etching on 69 
 
 Gold Lacquer for 34 
 
 Gold Yellow for 27 
 
 Lacquer for 34 
 
 Polishes 41 
 
 to Clean ... 42 
 
 Broaching of Holes 118 
 
 Bronze, Black 102 
 
 Black for Brass 20 
 
 Brown, Chinese 30 
 
 Green for Brass 19 
 
 Imitation of Antique 29 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Bronze, Violet 120 
 
 Bronzing Fluid, Aniline 29 
 
 ofMedals 30 
 
 and Staining Metals 19 
 
 Brown Bronze, Chinese 30 
 
 Burnishers rij 
 
 Burnishing Powder 56 
 
 Bush, to Fit 119 
 
 Butting 10S 
 
 Canon Pinion, to Tighten 108 
 
 Carbolic Acid on Metal Cutting 
 
 Tools 117 
 
 Celluloid 10 
 
 Cements 3 
 
 Acid Bottle 7 
 
 Acid Proof. 4 
 
 Amber 3 
 
 Armenian 3 
 
 Bisque Figure r .. 6 
 
 Bone and Horn 10 
 
 Coral 7 
 
 Cutlery 8 
 
 Emery Wheel 10 
 
 Engravers' 11 
 
 Fire-Proof 11 
 
 Glass and Metal 8 
 
 Glass and Porcelain.. 9 
 
 Gold and Silver Colored. 12 
 
 Guttapercha 8 
 
 Ivory 9 
 
 Jet.... _ 10 
 
 Jewelers' 3 
 
 Label 7 
 
 Leather _ 6 
 
 Meerschaum 10 
 
 Metal 12 
 
 Metal and Glass 8 
 
 Opticians' 11 
 
 Porcelain and Glass 9 
 
 Rubber 11 
 
 Silver Colored 12 
 
 Strong 12 
 
 Tortoise Shell 12 
 
 Chinese Brown Bronze 30 
 
 Cleaning Brass 42 
 
 Brushes 57 
 
 Clocks.... 47 
 
 Electro Plate 38 
 
 125 
 
PAGE 
 
 Cleaning- Files.. _ 45 
 
 Go'd Tarnished in Sold- 
 ering: 3S 
 
 Ivory Ornaments 40 
 
 Mat Gold 3S 
 
 Nickel Plates 45 
 
 Powder for Show Win- 
 dows 56 
 
 Rags 56 
 
 Silverware 40 
 
 Silver Filigree Work 40 
 
 Silver Tarnished in Sold- 
 ering.. 40 
 
 Soiled Chamois Leather 57 
 
 Watch Chains 39 
 
 Clocks, to Clean 47 
 
 Coloring Copper 27 
 
 Gold Alloys 90 
 
 Compensation Balances, Alloy for 101 
 
 Composition Files 57 
 
 Copper, Etching on 69 
 
 to Color _. 27 
 
 and Aluminium Alloys 96 
 
 Coral Cement '7 
 
 Cutlery Cement. 8 
 
 Cylinder, Watch, Repairing of... 123 
 
 Dead White on Silver Articles 26 
 
 Dials, Enamel, to Drill 117 
 
 Gold, Restoring Color of 37 
 
 Lacquer for _• , 35 
 
 to Remove Name from 124 
 
 Diamantine 58 
 
 Diamond Drills and Gravers _ 116 
 
 Dissolving Soft Solder 64 
 
 Drills, Diamond 116 
 
 for Hard Steel 116 
 
 Rose 116 
 
 for Enamel Dials 117 
 
 Electro Plate, to Clean 3S 
 
 Emery Wheel Cement 10 
 
 Engravers 1 Border Wax 7 1 
 
 Enamels 13 
 
 Blue 15 
 
 Black 17 
 
 Brown 14 
 
 Dark Red 14 
 
 Fluxes 13 
 
 Green 14 
 
 Light Red 14 
 
 Olive 15 
 
 Opaque White 14 
 
 Orange. 15 
 
 Phosphorescent 17 
 
 Purple 15 
 
 Rose Colored 15 
 
 Violet.. 14 
 
 Watch Dial 16 
 
 White 14 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Enamels Y ellow ] 6 
 
 to Remove from Work iS 
 
 Enamel Solders. 61 
 
 Dial 9 
 
 Dials, to Drill 117 
 
 Etching Copper . 69 
 
 Fluids for Brass 69 
 
 Fluids for Ivory 70 
 
 Fluids for Silver 70 
 
 Grounds for 69 
 
 Signs 70 
 
 Spoons, Etc . 66 
 
 Stamplnk.. 71 
 
 Wax for Steel 71 
 
 Fictitious Silver 99 
 
 Files, to Clean 45 
 
 Filigree Work, to Clean 40 
 
 Fireproof Cement 1 11 
 
 French Polishing Powder 49 
 
 Friction Polish on Steel 43 
 
 Frosting Polished Silver 22 
 
 Silver 21 
 
 Watch Caps 21 
 
 Watch Plates. 21 
 
 Fusing Gold Dust S3 
 
 German Silver, to Solder 63 
 
 Gold Alloys 88 
 
 Blue 90 
 
 Gray 92 
 
 Green - 9 1 
 
 Mat. to Clean 38 
 
 Red - 9 1 
 
 Solders - 60 
 
 Tirge to Silver 25 
 
 Yellow 92 
 
 to Melt.... 83 
 
 to Refine S3 
 
 to Separate from Silver. S2 
 
 Gold and Aluminium Alloys 96 
 
 Hands, to Fit 122 
 
 Hard Solders - 65 
 
 Hardening and Tempering 72 
 
 Steel in Petroleum.... 73 
 
 Liquids 73 
 
 and Tempering Com- 
 bined 73 
 
 Holes, Pivot 118 
 
 Square - 118 
 
 to Broach ---- 118 
 
 Horn and Bone Cements 10 
 
 Imitation Antique Silver 25 
 
 Gold Alloys 93 
 
 Silver Alloys 99 
 
 Iron, Lacquer for. 35 
 
 to Whiten... -- 3 2 
 
 Ivory, Bleaching 4§ 
 
 Etching on 7° 
 
 Ornaments, to Clean 4S 
 
 126 
 
PAGE 
 
 Jewelers' Soldering Fluid. 66 
 
 Jewels - no 
 
 Foot, to Replace m 
 
 New no 
 
 Removing- 112 
 
 to Test for Quality m 
 
 Settings to Polish 43 
 
 Lacquers and Varnishes 33 
 
 Lacquer, Amber 35 
 
 Black for Iron or Steel... 36 
 
 Brass 34 
 
 Dial.. 35 
 
 Fine Pale. 34 
 
 Gold 3S 
 
 Gold for Brass 34 
 
 Gold for Iron. 35 
 
 Green_ 35 
 
 Gypsum. 36 
 
 Metal 36 
 
 Red.. 35 
 
 Silverware 33 
 
 Simple Pale 35 
 
 Steel 36 
 
 Transparent 34 
 
 Magic Polish for Brass 41 
 
 Mainspring, Relation of to Barrel 104 
 
 Manganese Alloys 90 
 
 Mat Brushing 55 
 
 Measuring Length of Staff. 123 
 
 Medals, to Bronze 30 
 
 Melting Gold So 
 
 Nickel Alloys 100 
 
 Movement, to Restore. 46 
 
 Plates, to Clean 45 
 
 Remove Rust from 45 
 
 Niello. 17 
 
 Non-Corrosive Soldering Fluid 66 
 
 Oil Sinks, Functions of.. 119 
 
 Oxidizing Silverware 25 
 
 Oxidizing Silver, Brown Black. ._ 26 
 
 Blue Black..... 26 
 
 Pearls, to Drill ... 117 
 
 Pickling of Metals 51 
 
 Solutions 50 
 
 Pickle for Brass 50 
 
 for German Silver 50 
 
 for Gold Alloys 57 
 
 Pinion Diameter 10S 
 
 Removing Rust from 45 
 
 Pink Tint on Silver 26 
 
 Pivots, Friction of 114 
 
 Shape of 113 
 
 Holes.. 118 
 
 Platinum Alloys 94. 
 
 Polishing Agents 37 
 
 Aluminium 47 
 
 Brass ._ 41 
 
 Jewel Settings 4^ 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Polishing Paste for Brass 41 
 
 Powder for Gold 37 
 
 Powder for Silver 40 
 
 Rollers and Collets 44 
 
 Watch Wheels.... 42 
 
 Prepared Chalk .. - 5S 
 
 Preserving the Color of Gold while 
 
 Soldering _ gj 
 
 Preserving the Color of Silver while 
 
 Soldering 6 t 
 
 Pulz Powder 49 
 
 Putty Powder 49 
 
 Rating a Watch 122 
 
 Recovering Gold from Coloring 
 
 Bath S4 
 
 Recovering Gold from Mixed Me- 
 tals S2 
 
 Recovering Gold from Textiles... 84 
 
 Recovery and Refining of Waste. 82 
 
 Refining Gold S3 
 
 Silver S6 
 
 Sweepings S2 
 
 Relation of Mainspring to Barrel. 104 
 
 Remedy for Worn Pinions 1 oS 
 
 Removing Rust from Nickel 45 
 
 Spots on Gilding 3S 
 
 Stains from Watch 
 
 Dials 48 
 
 Tin from Gold S4 
 
 Broken Screws. 120 
 
 Restoring Color of Gold Dials 37 
 
 Nickel Move- 
 ments 46 
 
 Rose Cutter 116 
 
 Rouge 49 
 
 Rubber Cement . 11 
 
 Ruby Pin 112 
 
 Rust, to Remove from Pinions 45 
 
 Steel 44 
 
 Scratch Brushing 54 
 
 Screws, to Blue Evenly 2S 
 
 Broken, to Remove 120 
 
 Screw Threads, to Cut 121 
 
 Separating Gold from Silver 82 
 
 Silver. 85 
 
 Silver from Copper S6 
 
 Silver from Solution 86 
 
 Silver Assay with Testing Tube.. 99 
 
 by Smelting 99 
 
 Silver and Aluminium Alloys 96 
 
 Silver, Etching on 7° 
 
 ' Plating, Without Battery.. 22 
 
 Plating Fluid 23 
 
 Plating Simple Method 23 
 
 Refining - 86 
 
 Soaps 39 
 
 Solders 62- 
 
 to Frost 21 
 
 127 
 
PAGE 
 
 Silver to Oxidize 25 
 
 Watch Dials, to Whiten... 26 
 
 Silverware, Cleaning 40 
 
 Lacquer for 33 
 
 Oxidizing 25 
 
 Silvering- Copper and Brass 22 
 
 Metal, Cold 24 
 
 Receipt 24 
 
 Small Iron Articles 24 
 
 Tincture 30 
 
 Soft Soldering 63 
 
 Soft Solder, to Dissolve.. 64 
 
 Solder, Aluminium 97 
 
 Aluminium 62 
 
 Brass 62 
 
 Fluxes 65 
 
 Gold 60 
 
 Hard -. 65 
 
 Silver 62 
 
 Soft 64 
 
 Wire 65 
 
 Solders and Soldering- 59 
 
 Soldering Broken Broaches.. 62 
 
 Enameledjewelry 61 
 
 Forceps 59. 
 
 German Silver .... 63 
 
 Stay Springs. 62 
 
 Stone Set Kings 63 
 
 Spots on Plated Articles, to Cover 31 
 
 Stains, Antique Green 31 
 
 Blue on Brass or Copper.. 20 
 
 Dead Black on Brass 20 
 
 Gold Yellow for Brass 27 
 
 Green for Brass 20 
 
 Orange for Brass 17 
 
 Steel Gray for Brass 20 
 
 Violet for Brass 19 
 
 Stamp Ink 71 
 
 Steel, Bluingof 2S 
 
 Hard, to Drill - 116 
 
 Transparent Blue for 27 
 
 to Bronze 28 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Steel, to Polish 43 
 
 to Remove Rust from 44 
 
 Stone Set Rings to Solder 63 
 
 Specific Gravities 88 
 
 Spring, Balance 103 
 
 Balance, Isochronism of.. 105 
 
 Breguet 103 
 
 Gold, to Harden 105 
 
 to Demagnetize 104 
 
 to Prevent Rusting 104 
 
 Tempering 76 
 
 Drills So 
 
 Magntts 79 
 
 Small Steel Articles 79 
 
 Tightening a Canon Pinion 10S 
 
 Tortoise Shell Cement 12 
 
 Transparent Blue for Steel 27 
 
 Tripoli... 49 
 
 Varnishes and Lacquers 3} 
 
 Vienna Lime 5S 
 
 Violet Bronze 102 
 
 Watch Caps, to Frost 21 
 
 Chains, to Clean 39 
 
 Dials, to Remove Stains 
 
 from 48 
 
 Dials, to Whiten 26 
 
 Glassess, Reducing Dia- 
 meter of.. 124 
 
 Magnetized 123 
 
 Plates, to Frost 22 
 
 Repairing Cylinder 123 
 
 To Rate 122 
 
 Wheels, to Polish 42 
 
 Wheels and Pinions 106 
 
 Butting of. 10S 
 
 'Scape, Teeth of 106 
 
 to Bush 106 
 
 to Grind Down 107 
 
 to Insert Teeth in 107 
 
 Whitening of Silver Watch Dials 26 
 
 Wire Solder, to Make 65 
 
 Yellow Solder for Brass 62 
 
 128 
 
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