THIS TRAVELLER'S GUIDE THROUGH THE MIDDLE AND NORTHERN STATES, AND THE PROVINCES OF CANADA. BY O. M.^DAVISON. telGHTH EDITION. Saratoga Springs £ iPUBLlSHfiD BY G. M. DAVISON ; AND BY S. S. & W. WOOD, NEW-YORK. 1840^ Enteff.d according to the act cf Congress, in the year 1840, by G. M. Davjsox, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Northern District of New- York. INDEX. Page> Introduction, 15 From Augusta, Geo. to Charleston, S. C. Augusta — Hamburgh, 19 From Savannah to Charleston. Savannah, 20 Steamboat route — table of distances, 21 Land route — table of distances, id Charleston, 22 Sullivan's Island, 23 From Charleston to New-York. Route by water — table of distances, 25 From Charleston to Weldon, N. C. Steamboat and rail road route, 25 Wilmington, N. C id From Weldon, via Norfolk, to Washington City. Railroad and steamboat route, 26 Portsmouth — Norfolk — Jamestown, id Mount Vernon, 28 Alexandria, 29 From Weldon, via Richmond, to Washington City. Petersburgh, 30 Richmond — Manchester — Fredericksburgh, 3 1^ Washington City, 32 Georgetown — Chesapeake and Ohio canal, 38 IT !NDEX. From Washington to the Virginia Springs. Table of distances, 40 Monticello — Warm Springs, 41 White Sulphur Springs, 42 From Washington to Baltimore. Rail road, 42 Baltimore, id Baltimore and Ohio rail road 45 Baltiinore and Susquehannah rail road, 46 Fro7n Baltimore to Philadelphia. Route by way of Frenchtown and New-Castle — North Point, 49 Chesapeake and Delaware canal, 49 Frenchtown and New-Castlc rail road, id New-Castle, 50 Route by way of Havre de Grace and Wilmington, id Havre de Grace, . . . , id Elkton — Wilmington, 51 Philadelphia 52 Internal Improvements in Pennsylvania, 51) From Philadelphia to Pittsburg. Rail road and canal route, 62 Columbia rail road, 63 Lancaster — Harrisburgh, 64 Pennsylvania canal, , , , 65 Lewiston — passage across the Alleghany Mountains 66 Thence to Pittsburg, 67 Rail road and stage route to Pittsburg, 68 Pittsburg, id Coal mines, 69 From Philadelphia to the Schuylkill Coal Mines. Germantown, Norristown and Reading rail road,. . , 72 German town — Norristown — Pottstown — Hamburgh 73 Mount Carbon, 74 Rail roads in the vicinity of the mines, « . . • id INDEX. V Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. Mauch Chunk, 76 Mauch Chunk rail road, 77 Lehioth river, id The Landing — Lehighton 78 Lehigh Water Gap, id Bethlehem, 79 Easion, id Morris Canal — Delaware Wind Gap — Delaware \?ater Gap, 80 From Easton to Schooh/s Mountain, and thence to New-York. Table of distances — Schooly's IMountain, 81 From Philadelphia to New-York. Route by the Camden and Amboy rail road, 81 Burlington — Bristol — Bordcntown, 82 Camden and Amboy rail road, id Route by way of Trenton and Newark, 83 Philadelphia and Trenton rail road, id Bristol — Trenton, 84 New-Brunswick — Rahway — Elizabethtown — New- ark, • 85 Jersey City — New-York, ^ 86 Excursions, 96 Governor's, Bedlow's and Staten Island, 97 Patcrson — Hoboken — Long Branch, id Harlem rail road — Croton Aqueduct — Hurl Gate,. , 98 Brooklyn, 99 Brooklyn, Jamaica and Long Island rail road, , 100 Rockaway, id From New.York to Albany, Table of distances, 101 Weehawken — Lunatic Asylum — Palisadoes- — Fort Lee 102 Fort Washington — Philipsburgh — Tappan^Bay- — Tarrytown, • 103 Ad VI INDEX. Sleepy Hollow — Harverstraw Bay — The Highlands, 104 Caldwell's Landing — Horse Race, 1 05 West Point, 10(5 Pollopel Island— New-Windsor, 108 Newbiirgli, 1 09 Miltor— Poughkccpsie, 110 Hyde Park Laii 'ing — Catskill, Ill Delaware and Hudson Canal, id Pine Orchard 112 Atliens — Hudson, 114 (^)xsackie Landing 115 Albany, 1] G Excursion to Saratoga Springs. Route by way of Schenectady, 119 M )ha\vk and Hudson riil road, id Buel's Farm — Schenectady 120 Saratoga and Schenectady rail road, 121 Ballston Lake, id Pallston Spa,. 122 Route by way of Troy to Saratoga Springs, 125 Gen. Van Rensst-Iaer's Mansion,, id Macadamized read, id U S. Arsenal— West Troy 126 Troy, 127 Rensselaer and Saratoga rail road, 129 Van Schaick's Island — Lansingburgh — Watcrford,. 133 Cohoes Falls — The Junction 131 Mechanicsvillc — Saratoga Springs, 132 From Saratoga Springs to the Battle Ground. Saratoga Lake,.. 144 Bemus' Heig^jits,... 145 Freeman's Farm, J 46 Smith House — Schuylerville, 147 Fort Edward, 148 From Saratoga Springs to Lake George, Sandy Hill— Glen's Falls, 149 Jessup's Falls— Hadley Falls, 150 INDEX. VII Bloody Pond— Caldwell — Lake George, ISl Fort William Henry, ' 53 Passage of Lake George, • L'iS Ticonderoga 1^7 EXCURSION TO NIAGARA FALLS. BY RAIL ROAD AND STAGE. From Saratoga Springs to Buffalo. Remarks, ^ 59 Table of distance?, iCl Utica and Schenectady rail road, »'* Amsterdam, 16J Fondu — Johnstown, 164 Palat inc Bridge— Fort Plain— Liule Falls, 1 65 Herkimer, 168 Utica, 16f) Trenton 1 alls, 170 Utica and Syracuse rail road, 174 Wh;tc?bf)ra' — Oriskany — Rome, id Fort Stanwix, 175 Syracuse — Salina, 176 Auburn and Syrufuso rail road — Auburn, 178 Cayuga — S(>ncca Falls, 181 Waterloo — Geneva — G neva Lake, 1 fe3 Canandaigua, 184 E. & W. Bloomfield — Lima — East Avon — Avon Spring • ^85 Caledonia — Leroy, 186 Batavia — Batavia to Buffalo, 187 ERIE CANAL. Description of, 1°° From Saratoga Springs to Buffalo^ by raiLroad and canal. Table of distances, 190 Gcddcs — Nine Mile Creek— Canton— Jordan, 191 Weed's Port— Centre Port— Port Byron, id Lake Port— Clyde— Palmyra, 192 VIII INDEX. Fullom's Basin — Fittsford — Rochester, 193 Toncwanda rail road — Ridge Road, 196 Carthage, 197 Brockport — Hollcy — Albion, 1 ^'8 Medina — G a sport — Lockport, 199 From Saratoga Springs to Buffalo, by rail road, canal and steamboat. Table of distances — Fulton — Oswego, 201 Lake Ontario, 203 Great Sodus Bay — Charlotte — Fort Niagara, 204 Fort George — Youngstown — Lewiston — Queenston, 205 Battle of Queenston, id Brock's Monument, 206 Ridge Road, 207 Devil's Hole — Whirlpool — Sulphur Spring, 208 Niagara Falls, 209 Welland Canal — Burning Spring, 216 Bridgcwater, or Lundy's Lane, 217 Chippewa — Chippewa Battle Ground, 218 Navy Island— Black Rock— Waterloo— Fort Erie,. 220 Buffalo, , 221 From Buffalo to Detroit. Tabic of distances — Dunkirk — Van Buren — Erie, . 225 Ashtabula— Cleveland, 226 Ohio and Eric Canal, 227 Sandusky — Amherstburgh, 228 Detroit, : 229 St. Joseph, 230 From Detroit to Chicago. Table of distances— Toledo, 230 Adrien — Tecumseh — Niles — Michigan City, 231 Chicago, 232 From Chicago to Milwaukee, 233 Do. to Galena, id Do. to the mouth of the Ohio river, .... id INDEX. « From Buffalo to Montreal, via Lake Ontario, on the British side. Tabic of distances — Toronto, 234 Port Hope, 235 Coburg, 236 Ki gston, 237 Bay of Quinte, 238 Rideau and Ottawa Canal, 239 Caledonia Springs, _246 From Buffalo to Montreal, on the American side. Table of distances, 248 Sacket's Harboi — Cape Vincent, 249 Morristown — Ogdensburgh, id Rap ds of the Si. Lawrence, 250 Lachinc — Montreal, 251 From Montreal to Quebec. Description of the route, 253 Varennos, 254 William Henry, 255 Lake St. Peter—Three Rivers 256 Richelieu Rapids— Sillcry river— Wolfe's Cove,.... 257 Point Levi, »<^ Quebec, • 258 Plains of Abraham, 267 MartcUojTowers, 268 Falls of Montmorenci 269 Lorcttc, 271 Chaudiere Falls 272 St. Ijawrencc river below Quebec, 274 Saguenay river, 275 Mouth of the St. Lawrence, 277 From Quebec to Montreal, id From Montreal to Whitehall. Table of distances — Laprarie, 278 St. Johns — Lake Champlain, 279 Isle au Noix— Rouse's Point— Plattsburgh, 280 X INDEX. Downie's Monument, 282 Port Kent— Adgate's Falls, 283 High Bridge — Burlington, 284 Split Rock— Crown Point, 285 Ticondcroga — Mount Independence, id South and East Bays— Whitehall, 286 CHAMPLAIN CANAL. Description of, 287 Canal route from Whitehall to Albany. Table of distances, 287 From Whitehall to Troy and Albany, by stage and rail road. Table of distances, 288 Fort Ann — Burgoyne's road, ». 289 Sandy Hill— Fortville, id Saratoga Springs to Troy and Albany, id ROUTES TO BOSTON. Remarks relating to, 290 From Albany to Boston, via New-Lebanon. Table of distances — New-Lebanon, 290 Pittsfield, 291 Noathampton — Farmington and Hampshire Canal, . 292 Mount Holyoke, , id Hadley— Regicides, Whalley and Goffe, 293 Belchertown — Ware Factory Village — Brookfield, . 295 Leicester — Worcester, 296 Boston and Worcester rail road, 297 Worcester to Boston, 298 From Albany to Boston, via Springfield, Mass. Table of distances — Canaan — West Stockbridge, , , 298 Springfield, 299 Springfield to Boston, 301 INDEX. XI From Saratoga Springs to Boston. Table of distances — Schuylcrville, 301 Union Village — Cambridge — Arlington, , . . . id Manchester — Chester — Bellows Falls, 302 Walpole, 303 Keene — Groton — Concord — Lexington, 304 Cambridge, 306 From Whitehall to Boston. Fairhaven — Castleton, 307 Rutland— Chester, 308 From Burlington to Boston, through Windsor, Vt, Table of distances — Montpelier, 309. Randolph — Royalton — Woodstock-^Windsor, 310 Windsor to Boston, 311 From Burlington to Boston, hy way of the White Moun. tains and Concord, N. H. Table of distances — Hanover, (see note) 311 White Mountains, 312 Conway — Fryeburgh, 319 From Conway to Concord, Centre Harbor — Red Mountain — Squam Lake,.... 320 Concord, 321 From Concord to Boston. Nashua — Lowell, , 322 Boston and Lowell rail road, 324 Boston, 325 East Boston — Mount Auburn, 332 Quincy — Dorchester, 333 Brighton — Watertown — Cambridge — Charlestown, . 334 Breed's Hill, 335 Bunker Hill Monument — Chelsea, , 339 Fort Independence — Nahant, 340 Forts around Boston erected during the revolution,. ^341 Xa iNDEl. From Boston to Portland. Table of distances — Lynn, 349 Salem — N cvvbiiryport, 350 Exeter — Portsmouth, t 351 Portland, * 352 From Portland to Eastport. Table of distances— North Yarmouth, 353 Freeport — Brunswick^ — Bath-Wiscasset-Waldoboro 354 Warren — Thomaston — Camden — Belfast — Castinc, 355 Machias — Eastport-^Robinstown, 356 From Portland to Quebec. Table of distances — Hallowell — Augusta, . < 3o7 Sidney-^Waterville — Norridgcwork, 358 Remainder M the route to Quebec, ^ « id From Boston to Providence. Boston and Providence rail road, 359 Dedham, (see note,) id Providence, . . , 360 Blackstonc Canal, • 362 S|onington and Providence rail road, o id From Providence to New-York, by steamboat. Table of distances, 363 Pav^rtux^t — Mount Hope — Bristol, id Newport, • 364 Point Judith, 365 Thence to New- York, 366 From Providence to New-York^ by rail road and steamboat. Table of distances — Stonington, . 366 Thence to Ncw-York, 368 From Stonington to New-London. New> London* 368 INDEX. XIll From New-London to Norwich, by steamboat. Thames River — Mohegan, 370 Trading Cove — Norwich, 371 Norwich and Worcester rail road, 372 From Norivich to Hartford. Table of distances, 372 East Hartford— Hartford, 373 Steamboats and stages from Hartford, 375 From Hartford to Middletown. Wethersficld— Rocky Hill— Middletown, 37T Haddam — Saybrook, (see note,) 378 From Hartford to New-Haven. Table of distance?, 378 Ncw-Havcn— Yalo College, 379 West Rock — East Rock — Farmington Canal, 381 Steamboats from New-Haven to New- York, 382 Stages from New-Haven, . , id Route from New-Haven to New-York. Table of distances — Sketch of the route, {see note,) 382 Bridgeport — Rail-road — Fairfield, id Norwalk — Westchester co. — Horseneck — Harlsem, . 383 From, New-Haven to Litchfield. Stages — Waterbury — West Rock, 383 Watertown — Litchfield — Mount Tom, 384 Great Pond — Mount Prospect, id From Litchfield to Albany. Stages and intervening places, 384 From Litchfield to Hartford. Harwinton — Burlington, 385 Farmington—Hartford, id a3 XIV INDEX. Route up the Valley of the Connecticut river. East Windsor— Enfield— Suffield, 386 South Hadley Falls, . 387 Northampton — Hadley — Hatfield, id Muddy iJrook, 383 Decrfield, 383 Greenfield— Turner's Falls 391 Vernon — Guilford — Brpttlcborough, 393 Dummcrston — Putney — Westminster, id WalpoK' — Bellows Falls — Charlesfown, id Spv.ngfield, Wcathcrsficld — Windsor, 395 llartland — Hartford — Hanover, id INTRODUCTION, This work is designed as a pocket manual and guide to travellers visiting the ?«Iicldle and Northern States and the Canadas. Its limits forbid elaborate descriptions or minute geographical details. It is therefore confined to subjects of more immediate interest to the tourist ; di- recting him in his course, and pointing out, as he passes, objects which most deserve his notice and regard. The Guide, it will be perceived, commences at Augus. ta, in Georgia, tho:gh a rapid glance of the country merely is taken until reaching Washington city. It bjing the object of tourists from the south, as the vt^arm season approaches, to accelerate their journey to the more salu= brious climate of the north, a description of the southern states would be foreign to the design of this work, and probably uninteresting to most of its readers. We there- fore briefly notice some of the prominent cities and towns at the south, and pass on to those sections embraced with- in what has been usually denominated the NoRTHER^f Tour. ERRATA. In p. 20, 13th line from top, instead of " northeasterly^''^ read northwesterly ; and in the 15th Hne, for " easterly " read westerly. In the 21st page, 14th line from top, for " northeast- erly" read northwesterly. THE TRAVELLER'S GUIDE. FROM AUGUSTA, GEO., TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 136 miles. The intermediate distances by rail road are as fol- lows : Miles. Branchville, 10 Suramersville, 40 Woodstock, 7 Charleston, 15 Miles. Augusta to Aiken,.... 16 BlakesvUle, 30 Midway, 18 Augusta is an incorporated city, and the capital of Richmond county, Geo. It is located on the Savannah river, 340 miles by water above Savannah, between which places it is navigable for boats of only 100 tons burthen. The city contains a court house, jail, and several churches, banks and other public buildings, many of which are creditable to the taste and munificence of the inhabitants. The population is about 8000. From Hamburgh, a village of some magnitude on the opposite side of the river, the Charleston and Hamburgh rail road commences, connecting the two places by a steam communication 136 miles long. It was com- menced in 1830 and completed in 1833. Instead of be- ing graded, it originally consisted mostly of trestle work — 20 SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON. the rails, in many instances, being from 12 to 15 feet above the surface of the ground. But the importance of rendering the work more permanent, soon became obvious, and the company have since graded the entire line, and rendered the foundation solid. From the bridge at Hamburgh, the road rises in a dis- tance of l6 miles, 360 feet, and from thence to Charles* ton it descends 510 feet. It has one inclined plain 3800 feet long, with an ascent of ISO feet, which is overcome by means of stationary engines. The route from Ham- burgh to Charleston is performed in about 12 hours. From Augusta a rail road is nearly completed to Athens, 114 miles distant in a northeasterly direction; and a rail road is also finished to Greensborough, 100 miles distant, in an easterly direction. The latter is a part only of a route in progress to the boundary line be- tween Georgia and Tennessee, a distance of 285 miles ; from whence a road is constructing to Knoxville, Tenn. 97 miles farther. When completed, it will afford an un- interrupted line of 510 miles from Charleston to the in- terior. FROM SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON, 110 miles. Savannah, the principal city in the state of Georgia, is located on the southwest bank of the Savannah river, about 17 miles from the bar at its mouth. The city is built on elevated ground, and exhibits a beautiful appear- ance from the water; its tall spires and other public buildings, with the groves of trees planted along its streets, giving it an air of peculiar fascination. The SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON. 21 streets are wide and regularly laid out, and the buildings, together with the public squares, of which there are ten, exhibit much taste and elegance. Of the public build- ings, the city contains a court house, jail, hospital, theatre, exchange, a public library, 3 banks, and 10 churches. The Presbyterian church is an elegant and spacious edifice of stone. The Exchange is a large building, 5 stories high. The academy, partly of brick, and partly of stone, is ISO feet front, 60 feet wide, and 3 stories high. Savannah is by far the most important commer- cial town in Georgia, and is the great mart of the cotton planters for an extensive and well settled region of coun- try. A rail road between the city and Macon, 210 miles in a northeasterly direction, is partly finished, and the residue in a state of progress. Steamboats ply regularly between Savannah and Charleston, distance 111 miles, as follows: Miles. Bloodv Point, 17 Hilton Head, 18 Truncard's Inlet, 4 St. Helena Sound,.... 21 South E:isto Inlet,.., 3 By land, the distance between the two cities is 118 miles, as follows : Miles. Stoney Inlet, 27 Coffin Land, 11 Fort Moultire, 6 Charleston, 4 Miles. From Savannah to Beck's Ferry, on the Savannah river, .... 25 Fitch's Erhan road,.. 19 Coosauhatchie, 4 Pocotaligo, 6 Saltketcher Church, . , 7 Milss. Thompson's Tavern, , . 9 Pompon P. Office, .... 1 1 Jackson Borough, .... 3 Hick's Tavern, lO Green's Tavern, 10 Ashley River, 8 Charleston, 6 22 CHARLESTON. On this route, the tourist crosses the Savannah river, which is navigable for steamboats to Augusta, 123 miles, by land, above Savannah, having its rise 150 miles north- west of the former place ; The Coosauhatchie river, which rises 47 miles north- west of the village of that name, and falls into the Coo- saw river, 6 miles southeast ; The Cambahee river, which rises 75 miles northwest of Saltketcher, and falls mto St. Helena Sound, 18 miles southeast from that place ; The Edisto river, which rises 90 miles northwest of Jacksonboro,' and falls into the Atlantic ocean 20 miles southeast ; and The Ashley river, which rises about 40 miles northwest of Charleston. This route is interspersed with rice and cotton planta- tions, and several handsome country seats of the opulent owners of the soil. In the spring, the whole face of the country assumes a richness of verdure highly picturesque and romantic ; which, however, becomes dried and with- ered during the burning heat of a summer's sun. CHARLESTON, The metropolis of South Carolina, is alike distinguished for the opulence and hospitahty of its inhabitants. On entering the city from the bay, an interesting prospect is presented. The glittering spires of its public edifices are well calculated to give animation to the scene. Some of its streets are extremely beautiful, and many of the houses are truly elegant- Orange trees, in the early part of the season, laden with fruit, and peach trees clothed Sullivan's island. 23 with blossoms, meet the eye of the traveller, and united with the climate of the country at that time, render Charleston one of the most attractive cities in ihe union. The society is refined, intelligent, frank and af?able. The city was founded and made the seat of govern- ment of the state in 1680. It stands on a dead level with the sea, two noble rivers, the Ashley and the Cooper, en- closing it on a wide peninsuia, called the Neck. Most of the houses contain a piazza, extending from the ground to the top, giving to the rooms in each story a shady open walk. Except in the commercial parts of the town, the houses, which arc mostly painted white, are generally surrounded with gardens, trees and shrubbery, giving to them a peculiarly romantic and rich appearance. The most celebrated edifices of this city, arc 10 or 12 in number, exclusive of 20 churches ; many of which ex- hibit much architectural taste and beauty. The city library is one of the best in the union, and contains near- ly 14,000 volumes. Though this city has been occasionally visited with yel- low fever, it is considered more healthy for acclimated in- habitants than the surrounding country. The planters from the low country, and many opulent strangers from the West Indies, come here to spend the sickly months, and to enjoy the elegant and enhghtened society with which the city abounds. The rail road from this place to Hamburgh, &.c. has already been noticed at p. 19. Sullivan's Island, which lays at the distance of 7 miles from the city, at the entrance of the harbor, is a b2 24 SULLIVAN'S ISLAND. spot consecrated as the theatre of important events dur- ing the revolution. On this island is Fort Moultrie, rendered glorious by the unyielding desperation with which it sustained the attack of the British fleet in the war of independence. The fleet consisted of about fifty sail ; and on the first annunciation of its approach, lay within six leagues of the island. About this period, a proclamation reached the shore, under the sanction of a flag, in which the British com- mander, Sir Henry Clinton, held out the promise of par- don to all who would resign their arras, and co-operate in the re-establishment of loyalty. But the proposition met with the rejection which it deserved. The militia of the adjacent country crowded the streets of Charleston ; the citizens threw down their implements of industry, and grasped their arms in defence of their native city. On the 28th June, 1776, Fort Moultrie was attacked by about ten ships, frigates and sloops, and was defended in a man- ner that would have honored the heroic veterans of Greece or Rome. So manfully did the garrison withstand the conflict, that the fleet was compelled to withdraw, leav- ing the inhabitants in the unmolested enjoyment of their rights. From Charleston to New-Orleans, a very common route is by rail road to Greensboro', (already noticed) and from thence by stage, twice a day, via Indian Sprmgs, (Geo.) Columbus, Montgomery, (Alab.) and Mobile; and another by steamboat to Brunswick, (Geo.) 160 miles, by stage to Tallahassee, (Florida) 210 miles, by rail road to St. Marks, 21 miles, by steamboat to Lake Wimico, (in- ner })assage) 85 miles, by steamboat from St. Josephs to CHARLESTON TO WELDON. 25 Mobile, 215 miles, and from thence to New-Orleans, 114 miles. The communication between Charleston and New- York, until recently, was mostly by steamboat ; but since the construction of the North Carolina and Vhginia rail roads, the inland route is generally preferred. The distance by water, is 670 miles, as follows : Miles. OfF Cape Fear, 120 Cape Look Out,.. 75 Cape Hatteras,.. . 78 Capes of Virginia, 140 Cape May, 120 Miles. Off Barnegat Inlet, . . 70 The Bar, 45 Sandy Hook, 3 The Narrows, 11 New- York, 8 FROM CHARLESTON TO WELDON, N. C. 315 miles. The route is by steamboat and rail road, as follows By rail road. Miles. From Wilmington to Weldon, 160 By steamboat. Miles. From Charleston to the mouth of Cape Fear River, 120 Wilmington, ...... 35 A steamboat leaves Charleston daily, and reaches Wil- mington in about 14 hours : from whence a rail road, passing through Waynesboro' and Enfield, to Weldon, on the Roanoke river, is taken, occupying about 10 hours more. Steamboat and rail road fare, ^15. Wilmington, N. C, is the capital of New-Hanover county. It is situated on the northeast side of Cape Fear river, just below a union of its branches, to which place the river is navigable for vessels. The town contains 26 WELDON TO WASHINGTON CITY. about 3000 inhabitants, and is the greatest shipping port in the state. It was visited by a conflagration in 1819' by which 200 buildings, valued at ^1,000,000, were de- stroyed ; by another in 1828, in which 50 buildings were burned, valued at $130,000; and by another in the month of January, ihc present year, (1840) in which 150 build- ings were destroyed. The rail road to the Roanoke crosses, in its course, a rail road leading to Raleigh, the capital of the state, and also the Neuse and Tar rivers. FROM WELDO^f TO WASHINGTOiV CITY. There arc two routes ; one by the way of Norfolk, the other by liie v/ay of Richujond. A sketch of each is given : By the way of Norfolk — 277 miles. Miles. By rail road. From Weldon to Ports - moutli, 77 By steamboat . Mouth of Elizabeth river 9 Mouth of James river, G Mouth of York river. Old Point Comfort, 20 Miles. Nev.- Point Comfort, 10 Rappahannock river, 15 Off Outlet St. Mary's river, 42 Off Port Tobacco 38 Mouth cf Potomac creek, 1 5 Mount Vernon, 30 Alexandria, 9 Washington, 6 Portsmouth, the terminating point of the rail road from the Roanoke river, is pleasantly located on the south- west side of Ehzabeth river. It contains a court house, jail, 4 or 5 churches, and about 3000 inhabitants. The river is here crossed to Norfolk, which is directly opposite, and 1 mile distant. It is the comiaercial capital of Virginia, and is situated NORFOLK. 27 immediately below the two branches of the Elizabeth, and 8 miles above Hampton Roads. Its population is about 12,000. The town lies low, and is in some places marshy, tliough the principal streets are well paved. Among the public buildings are a theatre, 3 banks, an academy, marine hospital, atheneum, and 6 churches. The harbor, which is capacious and safe, is defended by several forts. One is on Craney Island, near the mouth of Ehzabeth river. There are also fortifications at Hamp- ton Roads, the principal of which is Fort Calhoun. The Navy Yard at Gosport, on the bank of the Eliza- beth river, nearly opposite Norfolk, is deserving the atten- tion of strangers. A superb dock has been constructed at this place, similar to that at Charlestown, near Boston. The length of the bottom, from the inner or foremost block, to that which is nearest the gates, is 206 feet, be- sides 50 feet of spare room — sufficient to hold a small vessel. The width of the dock, at the top, is 86 feet. As the tide rises and falls but 3 or 4 feet, the water is pumped out, when necessary, by steam engines. Boats ply continually between Norfolk and Baltimore, a distance of 197 miles ; and also between Norfolk and Richmond, the capital of Virginia, 117 miles.* * On the latter route, Jamestoicn, 24 miles from Nor- folk, is passed, on the James river. It was founded in 1608, and was the first English settlement in the United States. The site is very beautiful, and the settlement itself must have been but a few steps from the river. On each side there is a delightful and variegated succes- sion of woodlands, meadows, pastures, and green fields ; in front appears the broad expanse of James river, with its multitude of white, gliding sails. The opposite hills 28 MOUNT VEHNON. From Norfolk to Washington City, the route is down the Elizabeth river till it enters the Chesapeake Bay — thence up the bay to the mouth of the Potomac, which is entered, the boat proce ding up the river, and passing Mount Vernon and Alexandria. Mount Vernon is on the south side of the river, 30 miles above the mouth of the Potomac creek. To this sacred spot the mind of every American recurs v."ith the most enthusiastic devotion. He looks upon it as consecrated ground. Hero the immortal Washington, after having conducted the American armies forth to victory and in- dependence, retired to enjoy the rich reward of his ser- vices in the warm hearted gratitude of his countrymen, and in the peaceful seclusion f private life. are picturesque : some are entirely covered with woods ; others, partly cleared, presenting, in the proper season, patches of white v,'avy corn. To increase the richness of this scenery, here and there are distinguished the old and elegant mansions of the Virginia planters, like points of beauty in a fine picture. No vestige of Jamestown is now to be seen, except the ruins of a church steeple, about 30 feet high, and fringed to its summit with running ivy. Near by is a burying ground with its venerable tombstones, and spot- ted with dark green shrubbery and melancholy flowers. It looks like a lonely, unfrequented place, and there is something deeply interesting in contemplating these ves- tiges of an age gone by. The celebrated Pocahontas (daughter of the Indian chief Powhatan) was the tutelary guardian of this settle- ment ; and some of her descendants are now living in Virginia. The late John Randolph used to claim to be of the niunber. ALEXANDRIA. 29 This place, till within a few years, was the residence of Judge Washington, the nephew of the General; but after his decease in 1829, the estate descended to a ne- phew of the Judge, John Adams Washington, who died in 1832 ; sinco which the estate has remained in the pos- session of the widow and children of the latter. The road to it is almost uninhabited, and difficult to trace. The house stands on an eminence, embracing a delightful view of the Potomac, with a rich and beautiful lawn ex- tending in front to the river. The Tomb of Washington is visited as an interesting object of contemplation. The Old Tomb, so called, in which the remains were originally interred, is fast going to decay ; but the new tomb, more remote from the riv- er, the construction of which was commenced by the General previous to his decease, and into which his re- mains were removed in 1830, and subsequently placed within a marble sarcophagus, is of solid and enduring ma- terials. Here slumber in peaceful silence the ashes of the great and patriotic Father of Liberty. No monument has yet been erected to his memory; and the only in- scription on the tomb is the following : " I am the resur- rection and the life." Alexan'TjRta, an incorporated city, 9 miles farther, on the west bank of the river, is a place of extensive business and of fashionable resort during the sittings of congress. It contains a court house, 6 churches and a theological seminary. The Museum at this place, among other things, con- tains an elegant satin robe, scarlet on one side and white 30 RICHMOND ROUTE. on the other, in which Gen. Washington was baptized ; a penknife, with a pearl handle, given to him by his moth- er when he was in his twelfth year, and which he kept fifty-six years ; a pearl button, from the coat he wore at his first inauguration as President of the United States in the old City Hall, New- York ; a black glove, worn by him while in mourning for his mother ; part of the last stick of sealing wax which he used ; the original of the last letter written by him, being a polite apology, in be- half of himself and Mrs. Washington, for declining an invitation to a ball at Alexandria ; it is penned with sin- gular neatness, accuracy and precision, and contains this expression : " Alas ! our dancing days are over ;" a beau- tiful masonic apron, with the belt of scarlet satin and the white kid gloves worn by him the last time he shared in the social ceremonies of the " mystic tie." The country between this city and the capitol is but thinly inhabited, and the soil poor and unproductive ; but the road is good, and a ride to Alexandria constitutes one of the amusements of a winter at Washington. FROM WELDON, N. C- TO WASHI3VGTON CITY, By way of Richmond, Va. — 194 miles. The route is by rail road and steamboat as follows : Miles. By rail road. From Weldon to Peters- burgh, 60 Richmond, , . 22 Fredericksbm'gh, 64 Belleplain, 11 Miles. By steamboat. From Belleplain on Po- tomac creek to Mount Vernon, 32 Alexandria, 9 Washington City, 6 Petersburgii, Va. is located on the south bank of the Appomatox, just below the Falls, 12 miles above its junc- RICHMOND. 3l tion with the James river. It is one of the most hand- some and flourishing towns in the state, and enjoys im- portant commercial and manufacturing- advantages. Its population is from 10 to 12,000. Richmond, the capital of Virginia, (22 miles farther,) is situated on the north bank of James river, directly at its lower falls, at the head of tide water, and 150 miles from its mouth. The town rises in an acclivity from the water, and presents a beautiful and highly picturesque appearance. A part of the town, on what is called Shoc- koe hill, overlooks the lower part ; and from the capitol, which is on the greatest eminence, a most delightful pros- pect is had of the river and adjacent country. Besides the capitol, which is a handsome edifice, the city con. tains an elegant court house, a penitentiary, (which cost ^135,000,) an alms house, 2 markets, an academy of fine arts, a female orphan asylum, 2 banks, and 12 church- es ; one of which, built on the ruins of the theatre, in the conflagration of which 90 citizens perished, is very beau- tiful. The population of the city is about 18,000. Manchester, directly opposite, is connected with Rich- mond hy two substantial bridges, and is a flourishing place. Fredericksburgh (64 miles from Richmond) is situa- ated on the south side of the Rappahannock river, 110 miles from its outlet into the Chesapeake Bay. It con- tains a court house, jail, academy, 2 banks, 5 churches, and about 600 dwelling houses ; and being near the head of navigation, and surrounded by a fertile country, it en- joys an extensive and advantageous trade. 32 WASKINGTON CITY. Mount Vernon and Alexandria, on this Toutc, have already been noticed at pp. 28, 20. WASHINGTON CITY Is 6 miles from Alexandria. As the seat of govern- ment of the Union, it is a place of much resort during the session of congress in the winter ; but is mostl}' de- serted by strangers in the summer. It is situated on the Maryland side of the Potomac, and on the point of land formed by the junction of the Eastern Branch. The Dis- trict of Columbia in which the city is located, was ceded to the United States by Maryland and Virginia in 1790, and in 1800 it became the seat of the general govern- ment. This District is about 10 miles square, lying on both sides of the Potomac, and is under the immediate direction of congress. The Capitol stands on a high and lofty eminence, and commands a delightful prospect of the Pennsylvania Avenue, the President's House, Georgetown and the Po- tomac, the Public Offices, the Navy Yard, Greenleaf 'o Point, the bridge over the river, and the road to Alexan- dria and Mount Vernon. The capitol is built of white free stone, has two wings, and is a very magnificent edi- fice. The exterior exhibits a rusticated basement, of the height of the first story ; the two other stories are com- prised in a Corinthian elevation of pilasters and columns — the columns 30 feet in height, form a noble advancing portico on the east, 150 feet in extent — the centre of which is crowned with a pediment of 80 feet span : a re- WASHINOTON CITY. 3d ceding loggia of 100 feet extent, distinguishes the centre of the west front. The building is surrounded by a balustrade of stone, and covered with a lofty dome in the centre, and a flat dome on each wing. The Chamber of the House of Representatives is in the second story of the south wing, and is semicircular, in the* form of the ancient Grecian theatre ; the chord of the longest dimension is 98 feet, and the height to the high- est point of the domical ceiling is 60 feet. This room \s surrounded by 24 columns of variegated native marble, or breccia, froni the banks of the Potomac, with capitals of v^hite Italian marble, carved after a specimen of the Corinthian order, still remaining among the ruins of Athens, which stand on a base of free stone, and support a magnificent dome painted in a very rich and splendid style to represent that of the Pantheon of Rome, and ex- ecuted by an interesting young Italian artist, named Bo. nani, who died a few years ago. In the centre of this dome is erected, to admit the light from above, a hand- some cupola, from which is suspended a massy bronze gilt chandelier of immense weight, which reaches within 10 feet of the floor of the chamber. The speaker's chair is elevated and canopied, and on a level with the loggia or promenade for the members, consisting of columns end pilasters of marble and stone. Above this, and under a sweeping arch near the dome, is placed the model of a colossal figure of Liberty, and on the entablature beneath is sculptured an American Eagle. In front of the chair, and immediately over the entrance, stands a beautiful statue in marble, representing History recording the 34 WASHINGTON CITY. events of the nation. Between the columns is suspended fringed drapery of crimsoned moreens, festooned near the gallery, to limit the sound and assist the hearing. A mag- nificient portrait of La Fayette, at full length, painted by a French artist, decorates a panel on one side the loggia. The Senate Chamber in the north wing, is of the same semicircular form, 75 feet in its greatest length, and 45 feet high ; a screen of Ionic columns, v/ith capitals after those of the temple of Minerva Polias, support a gallery to the east, and form a loggia below, and a new gallery of iron pillars and railings of light and elegant structure projects from the circular walls : the dome ceiling is en- riched with square caissons of stucco. The walls are covered with straw colored drapery, be- tween small pilasters of marble in the wall. Columns of breccia, or Potomac marble, support the eastern gallery. The Rotunda comprehends the spacious area between the two wings of the structure, and is of a circular form. It is entirely of marble, (and so indeed is every perma- nent part of the capitol,) except the light doors covered with green baize that lead out of it, and the frame of the sky light above. The height of the dome soars beyond the roof, and it may well be imagined, is most imposing and sublime. The floor is beautifully paved, and the sound of a single voice, uttering words in an ordinary tone, reverberates aloft like the faint rmnbling of distant thunder. In the niches designedly left about fifteen feet from the floor, are four sculptured pieces as large as life, designed to commemorate the aboriginal character, and some of the prominent events in the early history of the country. WASHINGTON CITY. 35 The scene of the first device is laid in 1773, and is de- signed to represent a fearful contest between Daniel Boon, ail early settler in one of the western states, and an In- dian chief. The second represents the landing of the pilgrims at Plymouth in 1620. The third is a represen- tation of William Penn and two Indian chiefs in a treaty in 1682, under the memorable elm on the right bank of the Delaware, near Philadelphia. And the fourth repre= sents the narrow escape in 1 606, of Capt. John Smith, the first successful adventurer in Virginia, from the up- lifted war-club of King Powhatan. The figure of Poca- hontas, in the attitude of supplicating the mercy of her father in behalf of the intended victim, is beautifully wrought, and the whole exhibits much elegance of design and workmanship. In the remaining niches^ which are designed to be filled with paintings, are already placed the following, executed by the late Col. Trumbull, one of the aids of Gen. Washington : The Declaration of Inde- pendence ; Surrender of Gen. Burgoyne ; Surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown ; and the Resignation of General Washington at Annapolis, December 23, 1783. The fig- ures in these paintings are full length, and are said to be excellent likenesses. The designs and execution are ad- mirable, and exhibit the great and almost unrivalled tal- ent of the artist. The Library. — Passing from the Rotunda, westerly, along the gallery of the principal stairs, the library room door presents itself. This room is 92 feet long, 34 wide, and 36 high. It is divided into twelve arched alcoves, ©rnamented with fluted pilasters, copied from the pillars in the celebrated octa^^on tower al Athens, c- 36 WASHINGTON CITY. This extensive collection of books embraces at present about sixteen thousand volumes, in various languages. The library is well chosen. The classical department, in particular, comprises many larc books. Mr. J'-fFer- son's arrangement of them is still preserved, founded, it is presumed, on Bacon's classification of science ; and they are divided into chrtpters, according to the subjects to which they relate. Besides the principal rooms above mentioned, two others deserve notice, from the peculiarity of their architecture — the round apartment under the Rotunda, enclosing forty columns supporting ground arches, whicli form the floor of the Rotunda. This room is similar to the substructions of the European cathedrr.ls, and may take Ihe name of Crypt from tb'^m. The other room is used by the Su- preme Court of the United States, and is of the same style of architecture, wiih a bold and curious arched ceil- ing — the columns of these rooms are of mapssy Dorick, imitated from the temples of Paestum. T venty-five other rooms, of various sizes, are appropriated ti; the officers of the two houses of congress and of the Supreme Court, and 45 to the useof committtt-i:, ; i'?}' are all vaulted and floor- ed with brick and stone. The three principal stair cases are spacious and varied in th.!i- form ; these, with the vestibules and numerous corridors or ^.c-'i^^.^es, it would be difficult to describe intelligibly. We will only say, that they are in conformity to the dignity of the building and style of the parts already named. The East Front presents th'-ee marble figures, repre- senting the Genius of America, Hope and Justice. ^ They WASHINGTON CITY. 37 are executed with much taste and judgment, and present an imposing appearance. From ing the capitol, towards the Pennsylvania Avenue, and within an oblong marble vase, is a naval monument, originally erected at the navy yard, in memory of the American officers who fell in the Tripolitan war. It is a simple column, wrought in Italy at the expense of the survivors. The President's House, which is also constructed of white free stone, two stories high, with thj spacious build- ings near it for the accommodation of the heads of de- partments, make together an interesting spectacle for the visitant. Among other places of interest at and near Washing- ton, and which deserve the attention of visitants are the Navy Yard ; the Columbian College, situate on a high range of ground north of the city and about a mile from the President's House, and the National Burying Ground ahout a mile southeast of the capitol. The ground on which Washington is built is airy and salubrious ; and the city, from the extent of its territory, presents the appearance of several distinct villages. It contains a population of about 20,000. Its principal public houses are the National Hotel, the Indian Queen Hotel, and the Mansion Hotel. They are all located on the Pennsylvania Avenue. There is a bridge across the Potomac, opposite Wash- mgton, which was completed in 1835. It is one mile in length, including the abutments. It has draws for the passage of vessels, 60 feet m width ; bo that its construe- 38 CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO CANAL. tion does not materially interfere with the navigation of the river. Its cost was about $130,000. Georgetown is on the same side of the Potomac with Washington, at the distance of 3 miles west of the capi- tol. It is very pleasantly situated, and is a plac^ of con- siderable traile. The country around i* is richly diversi- fied, and the location of the Catholic Monastery is very delightful. It stands on the borders of " the heights," in the northwest part of the town, and overlooks the body of the town below. The enclosure embraces about one acre. The Academy, or High School for Ladies, is the most interesting appendage of the convent. It contains a boarding school of upwards of one hundred pupils, and a free or charity school of a much larger number of day scholars. The seminary is divided into four classes. The hall of the first class contains an extensive cabinet of minerals, to which many rare and valuable specimens have been presented by the officers of our navy, and by catholics of the eastern world. It also claims to have many sacred relics, such as shreds or scraps from the garments of nu- merous saints — fragments from the chiirch and tomb of St. Peter, and of other saints — pieces of the wood of the cross, &c. &c. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was commenced in 1828, but has not been prosecuted with the vigor at first contemplated. It was originally designed to extend from Georgetown, D. C, to near Pittsburgh, Penn., where it was to unite with the Pennsylvania canal and the Ohio CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO CANAL. 3® river, 360 miles in extent. It has, however, been com- pleted only to Cumberland, 185 miles. The rugged country through which it passes — the solid and beautiful masonry of the locks and aqueducts — all conspire to im- press upon the traveller a liigh sense of the skill of the engineers and of the enterprize of the company, which has persevered in the work under so mauy appalling diffi- culties. Tho aqueducts over the Seneca and Monocacy creeks are perhaps not exceeded by any thing in this country, for beauty and lightness of design and solidity of construction. The wildness of the scenery around sets off to greater advantage these triumphs of art over nature. It is, however, from the Point of Rocks to Harper's Ferry, 12 miles, that the greatest difficulties have been encountered. For this distance the Baltimore and Ohio rail road runs parallel to, and in contact with the canal — - the bank of the latter forming the bed of the former. Both works are carried for miles under the precipitous crags, many hundred feet high, and whose very founda- tions have been cut away to form a shell for the road, while the canal is made to encroach on the bed of the river. The scenery itself is grand and imposing, and when viewed in connection with the monuments of hu- man genius and perseverance which are seen at the base of the cliffs, it assumes the character of sublimity. 40 KOUTB TO VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 'FROM WASHINGTOIV TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. The route is by post coaches, which leave daily, and the distances as follow : Miles. To Alexandria, . . 9 Fairfax C. House, 15 24 Centreville, 8 32 Bull Run, 3 35 Buckland Mills,., 11 46 New Baltimore,.* 4 50 Warrenton, 6 56 Lee's Sulphur Sp. 6 62 Jefferson, 3 65 Fairfax, 12 77 Cedar Mt 6 83 Rapidan, 6 89 Orange C.H 7 96 Gordon's Ville,... 8 104 Miles. Monticcllo, 16 120 Charlottsville,.... 3 123 York, 19 142 Wavnesboro', 6 148 Staunton, 12 160 Jennings N.Mt.. 17 177 Cloverdale, 12 189 Green Valley,.... 11 200 Warm Springs,.. J3 2l3 Hot Springs,. .. . 5 218 Jackeon River,.,. 9 227 White Sul. Spgs. 29 256 Sweet do do.. 28 234 Salt do. do., 1 285 By diverging 5 miles from this route at Orange Court House, the traveller can visit the former residence •of Mr. ->] adison at Montpelier ; and by diverging still farther, he can visit the Natural Bridge, on his way to the Warm Springs. This bridge is over Cedar creek, in Rockbridge county, 12 miles south west of Lexington, and is justly considered one of the greatest natural curi- osities in the world. The river at this place runs through a chasm in a hill. The chasm is 90 feet wide at the top, 200 feet deep, and the sides almost perpendicular. The bridge is formed by a huge rock thro\\Ti completely across the chasm at the top. The rock forming the bridge is 60 feet broad in the middle, and is covered with MONTICELEO. 4i earth and' trees. It forms a sublime spectacle when ex- amined from the margin of the river beneath. MoNTiCELLO, on the regular route to the Springs, is distinguished as tlie former residence of Mr. Jefferson. The mansion is on elevated ground, and is reached by a circuitous road of about 2 miles in extent from Charlottes, ville, the seat of the University founded by Mr. J. From the peak on which the house stands, a grand and nearly illuminated view opens, of the thickly wooded hills and fertile vallies, which stretch out on either side. The University, with its dome, porticoes and colonnades, looks like a fairy city in the plain ; Charlottesville seems to be directly beneath. No spot can be imagined as combin- ing greater advantages of grandeur, healthfulness and se. elusion. The house is noble in its appearance ; two large columns support a portico, which extends from the wings. The apartments are neatly furnished and embellished with statues, busts, portraits and natural curiosities. At a short distance behind the mansion, in a quiet, shaded spot, the visitor sees a square enclosure, surrounded by a low un- mortared stone wall, which he enters by a gate. This is the family burial ground, containing lO or 15 graves, none of them marked by epitaphs, and only a few distinguished by any memorial. On one side of this simple cemetery, is the resting place of the Patriot and Philosopher. The Warm Springs which afford a very copious sup- ply of water, are used for bathing, and are at a tempera- ture of 97°. The Hot Springs, which are 5 miles dis- tant, furnish only a small stream ; but their temperature 42 BALTIMORS. is much greater, being 112°. They all flow into the Jackson, a source of the James river. The White Sulphur Springs, 29 miles farther, owing to their medicinal qualities and the salubrious air which is enjoyed wilhin their locality, have become much cele- brated, and are annually visited by many for pleasure as well as for health during the summer months. FROM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE, 40 miles. The route is by the Washington rail road, which com- mences at the north-east part of the city, and in its course to Baltimore, approaches within sight of Bladensburgh, 4 miles from Washington ; crosses the Patuxent river 13 miles farther ; crosses the Patapsco river, on a noble and lofty viaduct, 15 miles farther, and unites with the Balti- more and Ohio rail road at Elkridge Landing, which lat- ter road is taken for a distance of 8 miles to Baltimore. The road is made in a very permanent and enduring manner ; and though over a rough and undulatinnf coun- try, its acclivities do not average more than 20 feet per mile. Its cost was about ^1,500,000. BALTIMORE Is on the north side, and at the head of tide water on the Patapsco river, 14 miles above its entrance into the Chesapeake Bay. It has a population of about 100,000, and may be considered the third city in the union ; whilst for its various manufactories and public buildings, orna- mental to the city and remarkable for their costliness, taste and coraraodiousness, it stands undoubtedly in the first BALTIMORK. 43 rank for enterprise and public spirit. Within 20 miles around, the water power is almost incalculable. It drives at present more than 70 flour mills and several manufac- lories of cotton, cloth, powder, paper, iron, glass, steam engines, extensive chemical works, &c. Many of these may conveniently be visited by sojourners in the city, on foot or by short rides in the immediate vicinity. The city embraces within its limits, a court house, jail, penitentiary, lunatic asylum, 2 theatres, an exchange, an observatory, 2 museums, 5 market houses, 10 banks, gas works, (the first in this country for lighting streets and houses,) a public library, a medical college, and 47 houses of public worship. Most of these establishments are worthy of the atten- tion of tourists, but more especially the cathedral, the ex- change, the public fountains, of which there are four tastefully ornamented and giving a copious supply of pure spring water ; the museums, the monuments, and the rail roads. The Cathedral is built after the Grecian Ionic order. Its outward length is 190 feet, its width 177, and its height to the summit of the cross that surmounts the dome is 127 feet. It contains the largest organ in the United States, and two very splendid paintings — one the descent from the cross, by Paulin Guerin, a present from Louis XVI. — another, presented by Louis XVIL, repre- senting St. Louis, attended by his chaplain and armor- bearer, burying one of his officers slain before Tunis, a-^ an encouragement to his officers and soldiers, who, for fear D 44 BALTIMORE. of contagion, would have left their comrades to be de- voured by beasts and birds of prey.* The Merchants' Exchange, built by private subscrip- ticn, is another monument to the public spirit of the citi- zens. This edifice, from Water to Second, fronting on Gay.street, is 255 by a depth on the two first of 141 feet, and is three stories high exclusive of the basement. In the centre is tho great hall, 86 feet by 53, lighted from the dome, which is 90 feet from the floor. In this hall, to which they have access by three entrances from the streets, the merchants convene daily from 1 to 2 o'clock. The Battle Monument, an elegant marble structure about 55 feet high, was commenced on the site of the old court house in Washington Square, in 1815, in mem- ory of those who, on the 12th and 13th of September in the preceding year, had fallen gallantly in defence of the city. The Washington Monument, built of white marble, ornamental to the city and honorable to its inhabitants, stands on an elevation a little north of the compact part of the city. The base is 50 feet square and 23 high, on which is placed another square of about half the extent and elevation. On this is a column 20 feet in diameter at the base, and 14 at the top. The colossal statue of * It was in this Cathedral that the funeral honors were paid to Charles Carroll, of CarroUton, the last surviving signer of the Declaration of Independence. He died in the city on the 13th Nov. 1832, and his remains were conveyed for interment to the vault on the premises of the family mansion, about 16 miles distant. BALTIMORE* 4S Washington, the largest one in modern ftges, is placed on the summit, 163 feet from the ground. The Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road commences a short distance from the Washington turnpike road on West Pratt street, where the company have estabhshed a depot. Under the authority given by the City Council, a line of railway has also been laid from the termination of the main stem of the road, at the Depot, down Pratt street to the Basin, whence it is constructed to the City Block, and runs parallel with the entire water front of the city, communicating with the wharves, and intersect- ing all the principal streets which extend northwestcily and southerly, as far down as the public property south of Jones' Falls, at which place there have been conveyed to the company, by the Corporation of Baltimore, two squares of ground, favorably situated for the convenient and economical transaction of an extensive commerce. An uninterrupted communication is thus opened along the whole extent of the road, between the Port of Balti- more and the Potomac river at Harper's Ferry, a distance of 67 miles ; which is extended, by means of the Win- Chester and Potomac rail road, 30 miles farther in a southwesterly direction to Winchester, Virginia. There is also a lateral road, 2 or 3 miles long, from Harper's Ferry to the city of Frederick. A double track has been laid most of the way to Fred- erick, and the travelling and transportation have thus far fully equalled the anticipations of the stockholders. A ride as far at least as EUicott's Mills, 13 miles from Baltimore, is considered almost a matter of course by strangers visiting the city. The scenery on the route, 46 BALTIMORE. being mostly in the vicinity of the Patapsco river, is pic turcsque and interesting. Amjng the works connected with the road, ihe Carrollton Viaduct, over Gvvynn's Falls, about a mile and a half from the city, is one of the most magnificent pieces of architecture in America^ This bridge, built of granite, contains one arch of about 80 feet span and 40 feet in height, and is 312 feet in length from end to end By rail road and stage — 305 miles. INTERMEDIATE DISTANCES. Miles. Miles, By rail road. Bedford,H.,^>.. .. 31 206 "To Harrisburgh, ii"? v^- Shellsburg, . . . ... 9 215 ticedat p. 62,.. 105 Stoystown,. . . . .. 19 234 Chambersburgh,. 5i 156 Laughlinlown, .. 16 250 By stages. Greensburg, . . ...23 273 M'Conn-lptowii, . 19 175 Pittsburg,.... ... 32 305 This route is performed in about 3 1-2 days. Pittsburg, an incorporated city, is situated on a beau- tiful plain, on a broad point of land, where the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela forms the Ohio river. The population of the city proper is about 1 8,000, and, including the suburbs, about 28,000. It is compactly, and in some places handsomely built ; though the uni- versal use of pit coal for manufacturing a.nd culinary purposes, has so far blackened the exterior of every build- ing., as to give the tovn a gloomy appearance. Its posi- tion and advantages, however, will continue to render it a place of attraction for builders and capitalists ; and it has already been very appropriately termed the Birming- ham of America, there being not less that 300 manufac- turing establishments, many of which are very extensive. Independently of the immense amount of iron wrought at this place, boat and steamboat building have been pursued on a greater scale than in any other town in the western country. Small boats are continually departing down the rivt-r at all seasons, when the waters will admit. In moderate stages, great numbers of steamboats arrive and THE COAL MINES. 63 depart. The city has also immense advantagfcs of artifi- cial as well as nati;r:J wati-r communications. Besides the Pennsylvania canal, already described, which termin- ates licrc, anollicr canal is in progress to connect it with Lake Eric through Meadville, and another proposed to the month of the Mohoning, where it will connect with a bi-anch of the Ohio and Erie canal from its summit head'. Among the public buildings in Pittsburg are 13 church- es, a university, high school, exchange, bank and museum. From Pittsburg, steamboats may be taken for Cincin- nati, Ohio, 465 miles ; to Louisville, Ky., 175 miles far- ihei; or to New-Orleans, 1400 miles farther. The time employed in reaching the latter place is about 12 days^ and tlie usual expenses from $40 to $60. THE COAL MINES. Since the- discovery and opening of the extensive coal mines in Pennsylvania, and the great internal improve^ msnts which liive been made in the state, providing z.n easy communication to them, it has become almost a matter of course to embrace them within the tour of the middle and northern states. The Lehigh and Schuylkill, the principal mines already explored, are located from lOO to 120 miles in a northeasterly direction from Philadel- pliia, between a chain of mountains denominated the Blue Ridge and the Susquehannah river. The anthracite district is principally occupied by mountains running par- allel to the Blue Ridge, often broad with table land sum- mits, and rising generally about 1500 feet above the ocean. These summits, by repeated fires, have been principally divested of timber, and are generally too stony 70 THE COAL MINES. for tillage. The beds and veins of anthracite range from northeast to southwest, and may often be traced for a considerable distance by the compass ; but they have been found in the greatest quantity in sections most accessible by water. Extensive beds and veins range from the Lehigh to the Susquehannah, crossing the head waters of the Schylkill and Swatara about 10 miles north- west of 'Jie Blue Ridge. They are also found contiguous to the Susquehannah and Lackawana. But in no part •of the district does the anthracite exist in such appa- rently inexhaustible beds as in the vicinity of Mauch Chunk, a village situated on the Lehigh, 35 miles from Easton, and 108 by canal from Philadelphia. The coal is there excavated on the flat summit of a mountain that rises near 1500 feet above the ocean. It is disclosed for several miles on the summit wherever excavations have been ma,de, and is indicated in many places by coal slate in a pulverulent state, on the surface. The mountain rises with steep acclivity, particularly on the northwest side, and when penetrated at various altitudes, discloses coal at about the same distance from the surface. In the deep excavations made on the summit, no termuiation of the coal has been found, and it is not improbable that anthracite forms the nucleus of the mountain for a consid- erable distance. Next to Mauch Chunk, Mount Carbon, or Pottsville, situated at the head of tho Schuylkill canal, has been the principal source of the supply of anthracite. Many large veins are worked within three miles of the land- ing; and some have been opened seven miles to the northeast, in the direction of the Lehigh beds. On al- THE COAL MINES. 71 most every eminence adjacent to Pottsville, indications of coal are disclosed. The veins generally run in a north- east direction, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and are from 3 to 9 feet in thickness. Commencing at or near the surface, they penetrate to an unknown depth, and can often be traced on hiils for a considerable dis- tance by sounding in a northeast or southwest direction. Some veins have been wrought to a denth of 200 feet without a necessity for draining, the inclined slate roof shielding them from water. On the extensive tract occupied by the New- York company, five miles from Pottsville, there are also inex- haustible coal beds, in the excavating of which from 300 to 400 handiS are employed. Southv/est of Pottsville the coal becomes more easily ignited, and that at Peter's mountain, a few miles east of Dansville, is said to contain bitunien. It is probable that the coal in that vicinity embraces, hke the Wilkesbarre, much more uiflamable gas than the Lehigh, which may have led to the supposition that it was bituminous. Anthracite is found on several of the streams that dis- charge into the Susquehannah, on its eastern side. A large bed exists a few miles easterly from Berwick, and numerous veins occur from an elevated pare of the Wilkes- barre mountain, to the Kingston and Shawnese moun- tains, that form the western border of the basin of Wyo- ming. Veins of coal in the vale of the latter,* about 125 * The valley of Wyoming is rendered memorable in history from the bloody massacre of the white settlers by he Indians commanded by Col. Butler during the revo- tution, and immortalized in song by the beautiful poem of f2 72 ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL COAL MINES. miles northwest of Philadelphia, are not only very numer- ous, occurring on almost every farm, but many are of un- common thickness.* Extensive beds of coal are also found adjoining the head waters of Lycoming creek, which lie in horizontal veins, elevated considerably above the ordinary level of the adjacent country, and are, of course, mined with much less difficulty than in many other districts. These mines are advantageously located for supplying the city of New- York and the southwestern part of the state, and will doubtless prove of great value to a company which has been chartered to explore them. ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL COAL MINES. 96 miles. The Germantown, Norristown and Reading rail roads, extend from Philadelphia to Reading, 59 miles ; from whence to Pottsville, by stage or canal, is about 37 miles. The latter portion of the route, indeed, will soon be oc- cupied by the Reading rail road, which is to connect, at various points, with the Mount Carbon, the Dansville and Pottsville, the Mill Creek and Schuylkill Valley, the Mine Campbell. The village of Wilkesbarre, on the Susque- hannah river, has been built near the place of this mas- sacre. Solomon's creek, a tributary stream, and which unites with the Susqnehannah in this valley, contains two very romantic falls, a very short distance from the village. * For the preceding sketch of the coal region, the edi- tor IS mostly indebted to the Journal of Science and Arts, an invaluable work, published at New-Haven, Conn., by Professor Silliman. GERMANTOWN — HAMBURGH. 73 Hill and Schuylkill Haven, and the Little Schuylkill rail roads — thus uniting with all the rail ways in the Schuyl- kill coal region. By means of a branch, it also ccnnects with the Columbia rail road, within five or six miles of its termination. Germantown, 7 miles from Philadelphia on this route, is distinguished as the spot of a sanguinary contest dur- ing the revolution. Norristown, 10 miles farther, is I ndsomely located on the north bank of the Schuylkill. It is the capital of Montgomery county, and contains a number of elegant dwellings. It was formerly the residence of the cele- brated Doct. Rittenhouse. PoTTSTOAVN, or PoTTSGRovE, 19 milcs abovc Norris- town, is a pleasant village on the east bank of the river. Reading, 23 miles farther, located on the east side of the river, is the capital of Berk's county. It is a flour- ishing town, regularly laid out, and is inhabited princi- pally by Germans. Its population is about 7000. Near this place the Union Canal, noticed at page 59, com- mences. Hamburgh is situated on the east side of the river, 23 miles above Reading, near the Blue Ridge. It is a pleas- ant and thriving village, near which is what is called the Mountain Dam^ 27 feet high. The passage of the Schuyl- kill and canal through the Blue Ridge is interesting and romantic. The mountains bordering the ravine are lofty and precipitous, presenting ledges of old and red sand stone, with coarse and fine] silicious gray wacke. The turnpike winds on the mountain aido at a great elevation 74 MOUNT CARBON. above the stream, giving to the traveller a sublime and varied scenery. The navigation through tho pass, or what is called the Schuylkill Water Gap, is effected by stone dams of magnitude and permanent construction ; and groops of locks, vi^ater falls and broad sheets of water are frequent. After passing the Water Gap, the next object of at. traction is the Tunnel, which has been bored tluough a hill 375 yards for the canal. The village of Orwisburgh is 3 miles farther ; from which to Mount Carbon or Pottsville is 8 miles. This place, centrally located in the coal region, has attained an as- tonishing growth within a few years. In 1824 it was a wilderness; in 1836, it contained about 600 dv\'elUngs and 7000 inhabitants ; several churches, a bank, 3 print- ing offices, and a large number of stores, shops and pub- lic houses, some of which are very elegant. The tov^ni is laid out in regular squares, and the main street, about a mile in length, presents on each side a compact row of large and substantial buildings. The principal streets are M'Adamized in the centre, with brick side walks, giv- ing a neat and durable appearance to the promenades. The coal in this region has been described in the pre- ceding pages of this work. Besides the numerous facih- ties afforded for its transportation by water, several rail roads have been ccnstructcd in the vicinity of Mount Carbon. Among these, are the Mount Carbon rail road, from Mount Carbon to Norwegian Valley, 7 miles ; the Schuylkill Valley rail road, from Port Carbon to Tusca- rora, 10 miles, and branches 15 miles more ; the Schuyl- kill rail road, 13 miles ; the Mill Creek rail road, from RAIIi ROADS. 75 Port Carbon to the coal mines near Mill Creek, 7 miles, including branches ; the Mine Hill and Schuylkill Haven rail road, from Schuylkill Haven to the coal mines at Mine Hill, including branches, 20 miles ; the Pine Grove rail road, 4 miles ; the Little Schuylkill rail road, fron* Port Chnton to Tamaqua, 23 miles ; and the Lackawaxea rail road, from Honesdale to Carbondale, 17 miles. Of the numerous villages which have sprung up in the vicinity of these mines is Port Carbon, a short distance from Pottsville, containing from 250 to 300 buildings. Pursuing up the route of the Valley rail road, the trav- eller next comes to Tuscarora, Middleport, Patterson^ Nev/ Philadelphia, and Tuscarora again. The three for- mer places arc at the intersection of the large lateral road wliich leads up the creek tributary to the river. Up the Mill Creek rail road, about 2 miles, is St. Clairs- villc, and at its head New Castle, where the road from Port Carbon intersects the Centre Turnpike. Both these places have extensive water powers, and are admirably located for mills, &c. At the junction of the West Branch of the Schuylkill with the main river, SchuylkUl Haven is a beautifully sit- uated place, which will be a mart for all the immense coal region of the West and west West Branches ; this loca- tion is destined to be the focus of an extensive business. Minersville is another site on the same branch, nearly west of Pottsville. This, from its situation among ex- tensive colleries, has already become a populous place, as the residence of those engaged in the coal business. Fur- ther up on the Broad Mountain, is Carbondale, which also promises to be a place of some importance. 76 MA0CH CHUNK. ROUTE TO THE LEHIGH COAL MINES. From Pottsville, a stage can be taken to Mauch Chunk, at the Lehigh coal mines, a distance of 32 miles in a northeasteily direction. This route is recommended to travellers from the south, designing a general visit to the coal regions. From the north, the most direct route is, to pursue the line of the Morris canal from Newark, New Jersey, to Easton, or the route from New- York to Schooley's Mountain, and from thence to Easton, pro- ceeding up the Lehigh to Mauch Chunk. A very com- mon route from Philadelphia to the Lehigh is by steam- boat to Bristol, 20 miles up the Delaware, and from thence by stage through Newton and New Hope to Easton, 50 miles farther. This route is mostly on the bank of the Delaware, and passes through a pteasant section of the country, affording a rich and diversified ecenery. MAUCH CHUNK. The village of Mauch Chunk is situated on the west- em bank of the Lehigh, in a deep romantic ravine, be- tween rocky mountains that rise in some parts precipi- tously to 800 or 1000 feet above the stream. Space was procured for dwellings by breaking down the adjacent rocks, and by filling a part of the ravine of the Mauch Chunk creek. A portion of this stream has been trans- ferred to an elevated rail way, and is used to propel a grist mill. The village contains about 250 dwellings, belong, ing principally to tlie Lehigh Company, who have be- tween 800 and 1 000 men m their employ. Mauch Chunk LEHIGH RIVER. 77 E3cm3 by nature designed for a ])lace of business, but as there is not sufficient room, owii'g to the approach of the mountains to the Lehigh, for a town of much size, the business of the place will most likely be confined princi- pally to the shipment of coal. The Mauch Chunk Rail Road leads from near the coal mines on^the mountain down an inclined plane to the Lehigh river. It is 8 miles long, and has been in op- eration 9 or 10 years. The road generally passes along a narrow shelf, with precipices on its side not unfrequently of from 300 to 600 feet. At the end of the rail road, the cars are let down to the river on an inclined plane of 700 feet, equal to a perpendicular descent of 000. The same company have also constructed a rail road 54 miles in extent from Mauch Chunk up the Lehigh to a coal mine. The Lehigh Canal was noticed at page 61. The Le- high RrvER is a copious rapid stream, and rises by various mountain branches 40 miles northwest of Mauch Chunk, which unite below Stoddartsville, 25 miles above the for. mer place. The fall of the river between these two places is 845 feet. Eleven miles below Mauch Chunk, it passes through the Kittatinny moimtains, and in the intermedi- ate space falls 245 feet. From the Lehigh Water Gap, or passage through the Kittatinny. to its junction with the Delaware at Easton, 35 miles, it falls 205 feet ; making the entire fall from Stoddartsville 1210 feet. To overcome the descent from Mauch Chunk to Easton, 21 dams and 52 locks have been found necessary. They are located at the head of the rapids, enabhng the navi- gator to command an artificial freshet, when the stream 78 LEHIGH WATER GAP. from its dispersion would not otherwise admit of the pas- sage of boats. Water from the dam is copiously admitted into a rail way that extends to the foot of the i-apid. The gates are attached by hinges to the bottom of the lock, and rise by the force of water admitted from a floom, constructed parallel with the lock, and remain suspended, forming a section of the dam. If the gate of the floom is •closed, the water between the gates passes off", and they fall by their own weight and ihe press'rc , f the water from the dam. The Landing, or Lausanne, above Mauch Chunk, from its location at the head of the navigation, and at the com- mencement of the road leading to the Susquehannah, is a place of deposit for merchandize and produce destined to and from the upper country. Eight miles below Mauch Chunk is the pleasant village of Leighton. The village commands a prospect of the river and canal ; the valley in which the town of Weiss Port is located : the Blue Mountain in the distance, and a nearer view of the Mahoning moimtain and the Lehigh hills. The Mahoning creek flows at the foot of the Ma- honing mountain, and empties into the Lehigh within half a mile of the village, where has been discovered a mineral spring, the waters of. which have proved highly beneficial in many cases of disease and debility. The Lehigh Water Gap is 3 miles farther. The river is here confined within very narrow limits, being bounded on either side with the bold and precipitous Kittatinny mountains. The scenery is in a high degree wild, pic- turesque, and frequently sublime. Below the mountains, the features of nature are less magnificent, but still fol- BETHLEHEM — EASTON. 79 low in a romantic succession of strongly contrasted and elegant landscapes. Bethlehe3I is 11 miles from the Water Gap. It is a settlement of the Moravians, or United Brethren. The situation is healthful and pleasant, and it is a place much resorted to in the summer months. The chuich belong- ing to the society is one of the largest in the state, though exhibiting in its structure much plainness. From its steeple a very beautiful, picturesque and cxten below Trenton, is noted as the residence of the Count de Surveillcrs, the ex-king of Spiin. His villa commands a fine view of the river. The soil around it is unproductive ; but by the aid of culture and art, his residence now exhibits an appear- ance of taste and munificence worthy thf> princely fortune and dignity of its proprietor. At Eordentov.'n the Camden and Amboy Rail Road is taken, which extends to South Amboy; froiii v\Ltism or perse- cuted virtue. PoLLoPEL Island is situated at the northern entrance of the Highlands, 6 miles above West Point. It consists of a mass of rock, and rises near the centre of the river between Breakneck Hill on the east and Butter Hill on the west. The altitude of the latter is 1529 feet — that of the former is 1187 feet, and contains the rock called the Upper Anthony's Nose. New- Windsor. Passing the Highlands, the prospect changes into a very agreeable contrast. The bay of Newburgh with the village of the same name, New- Windsor, and on the opposite shore the village of Fishkill, with its numerous adjacent manufactories and country seats, together with a view of the Hudson for many miles above, form a prospect which cannot fail to impart much NEWBURGH. 109 interest. The village of New-Windsor stands on the easi side of the river, 7 miles from West Point. It is cabulated for a pleasant place of residence, but in busi- ness it must yield to Newburgh. This is an incorporated village, situated 01 the declivity of a hill on the west side of the Hudson, IJ miles north from West Point, and 84 south from Albany. It contains a population of about 5000 inhabit- ints. From its situation it commands an extensive in- tercourse and trade with the country on the west, and by means of the Hudson river, with New- York. The Hudson and Delaware rail road, which is to ex- tend from this village to a junction with the New- York and Erie rail road at the Delaware river, has been com- menced. Newburgh was for some time the head quarters of the American army during the revolutionary war ; and the " stone house" in which Gen. Washington quartered is still standing. On the opposite side of the river from Newburgh is Beacon Hill, one of the highest summits of the Fishkill mountains, where parties of pleasure fre-' quently resort in the summer season, to witness an ex- tent of prospect including a part of the territories of five different states. This hill is 1471 feet in height. Half a mile south is the New Beacon, or Grand Sachem, 1685 feet above the level of the Hudson. They are called Beacon Hills, from the circumstance that beacons were erected on their summits during the revolutionary war. The continuation of this chain of mountains is lost in the Appalachian Range on the north east, and extends south as far as the eye can reach. Diminished in distance^ is 110 POUGHKEEPSIE. \ seen West Point, environed by mountains, apparentlj re- posing on the surface of the Hudson, and bathing tkeir rocky summits in the clouds. Eight miles and a half north of Newburgh, in an Sje- vated position on the east side of the river, is the mansicn house of the former Gov. George Chnton ; two and a half miles from which, on the west side, is the small ri.- lage of Milton. This place is called the halfway place be- tween New- York and Albany, being 72 1-2 miles distant from each. PouGHKEEPsiE, 15 mUes north of Newburgh, is beau- tifully situated on elevated ground, and is seen for a con. eiderable distance on the river both above and below the town. It has a popi.tlation of between 9 and 10,000, ard is one of the most flemishing villages in the state. It contains a number of beautiful private residences, and ceveral public buildings highly creditable to the taste of the inhabitants. The streets, which are numerous, are well paved, and the side walks ample and neat. Man- sion Square and the neighboring hill, whose brow has been crowned with a beautiful temple of learning, afford a landscape of great extent and beauty. On the south they overlook the village and the beautiful district of country extending to the Fishkill range of mountains and the Highlands. On the west and north are seen in the distance the Shawangunk and Catskill mountains, the Hudson river intervening ; while on the east the prospect is bounded only by the mountainous regions of western Connecticut and Massachusetts. CiTSKILL. lO" Opposite PougEteepsie is a small villages called New Paltz. Hyde Park Landing is 5 miles north, on the east side of the river. Near it are a number of country seats. From thence, 4 miles farther, is a landing place, leading- to Staatsburgh, 1 mile distant, in the town of Hyde Park. From thence to Rhinebeck Landing (east side) is 5 miles* — thence to Redhook Lower Landing (same Bide) is 7 miles — thence to Redhook Upper Landing, (same side) 3 miles — thence 2 miles to the seat of the late Chan- cellor Livingston — thence 7 miles to the manor house of the late Lord Livingston (same side) — thence 1 mile to Oakhill — thence 1 mile to Catskill. This village takes its name from a large creek which flows through it, and empties into the Hud- son at that place. It is situated on the west bank of the^ river, 32 mLes from Albany, and contains a population of about 3000 inhabitants. On Catskill creek are a number of mills and manufactories, and the general appearance of the village is highly flattering, as it respects its future growth and prosperity. The Catskill and Canajoharie rail road, a few miles of which has been finished, com- *Near this place, on the west side of the river, is Kingston Landing, and the commencement of the Dela- ware and Hudson canal. It extends in a southwester- ly direction to the forks of the Dyberry on the Laxawax- en river, Pennsylvania, distant 103 miles, lockage 1438 feet. It was originally intended by the company to have made this canal to Keen's pond, 1 3 miles from its present termination, but it has been abandoned and a rail road substituted, whi-'h extends 3 miles west of Keen's pond to the anthrac.te coal mines of Pennsylvania. 112 PINE ORCHARD. mences at this place, and is to extend to Canajoharie, on the Mohawk river, distant about 70 miles. Catskill is in the immediate neighborhood of the Kats. hergs or CatsJcill mountains, which are seen for many miles along the Hudson, and here assume a truly majestic and sublime appearance. The highest elevation of this range of mountains is in the county of Greene, from 8 to 12 miles distant from the river, including the Round Top, 3804 feet, and High Peak, 3718 feet in height. The village of Catskill, v.'hich was formerly visited prin- cipally by men of business, has more recently become the resort of people of fashion and pleasure, who design 4 tour to the Fine Orchard, a place which, for several years past, has attracted the attention of all classes, and still con- tinues to draw to it numbers of those who are fond of novelty, and especially of the sublime and romantic scenery in which it abounds. Regular stages leave Cats- kill for the Pine Orchard daily in the warm season. The whole distance is 12 miles, computed as follows : From the village to Lawrence's tavern, 7 miles — from thence to the foot of the mountain, 2 miles — from thence to Pine Orchard, 3 miles. The distance is passed, in going, in about 4 hours — in returning, in about 2 hours. The country through which the road passes has nothing inter- esting in its appearance until it reaches the mountain, being generally uneven and barren, md diversified with but one or two comparatively small sps)ts of cultivation, upon which the eye can rest with satisJaction. A short time is usually taken up at Lawrence's, for the purpose of refreshment, before encountering the rugged ascent of PINE ORCHARD. 113 the mountains. This part of the road is generally good, but circuitous, and often passes on the brink of some deep ravine, or at the foot of some frowning precipice, inspiring at times an unwelcome degree of terror. The rock upon which the hotel stands, forms a circular plat- form, of an xmeven surface, and includes about six acres. It is elevated above the Hudson upwards of 2200 feet.* The Hotel is 140 feet in length, 24 feet in width, and 4 stories high, having piazzas in front of the whole length, and a wing extendinsr in the rear for lodging rooms. It is well furnished, and possesses every convene ience and accommodation requisite to the comfort and good cheer of its numerous guests. The prospect from Pine Orchard embraces a greater extent and more diver. sity of scenery than is to be found in any other part of the state, or perhaps of the United States. The vast va- riety of fields, farms, villages, towns and cities between the Green Mountains of Vermont on the north, the High- lands on the south, and the Taghknaick mountains on the east, together with the Hudson river, studded with, islands and vessels, some of which may be seen at even the distance of 60 miles, are apparent in a clear atmos- * Capt. Partridge, who visited the Catskill mountains in 1828, made the following barometrical observations : Altitude of the Mountain House, at the Pine Orchard, above the surface of the Hudson river at Catskill vil-. lage, 2212 feet. Do. of the same above the site of Lawrence's tavern, 7 miles from Catskill, 1882 feet. Do. of the same above the turnpike gate at the foot of the mountain, 1574 feet. Do. of the same above Green's bridge, 947 feet. il4 ATHENS — HUDSON. phere to the naked eye ; and when the scene is ^adually unfolded, at the opening of the day, it assumes rather the appearance of enchantment than reality. It is not un- -common, at this place, to witness storms of snow and rain in their season, midway the mountain, while all is clear and serene on its summit. About 2 miles from the Hotel are the Kaaterskill Falls, which take their name frcwn the stream on which they are situated. This stream is an outlet of two small lakes, half a mile in the rear of the Hotel. Pursuing a westerly course of a mile and a half, the waters fall perpendicularly 175 feet, and after pausing a moment on a projection of the rock, plunge again down a precipice of 85 feet mo -e, making the whole descent of the falls 260 feet. The road to the falls is extremely rough ; but this objection will hard- ly deter the traveller from a visit to a spot so novel and romantic. Athens, (on the west side of the Hudson,) five miles above Catskill, is an incorporated village, and contains about 1500 inhabitants. Its situation on a gentle slope of land rising gradually from the river, gives it a favora- ble appearance. The vicinity of Athens to Hudson, im- mediately opposite, seems to forbid that importance in point of trade which its location might otherwise warrant. Athens furnishes a number of beautiful sites on the bank of the river ; some of which are already occupied by the elegant mansions of private gentlemen. The City of Hudson stands on the east side of the river, 27 miles south of Albany. The plain on which Hudson is situated rises abruptly from the river, by banks COXSACKIE LANDING. 115 from 50 to 60 feet in height ; and terminates on the east, at the foot of high lands, which overlook the city at an elevation of some hundred feet, and furnish a prospect of the Hudson river and scenery for many miles in extent. The city contains about 6000 inhabitants. Claverack creek on the east, and Kinderhook creek on the north, afford every facility for mills and manufactories, in which Hudson abounds. On the opposite side of the river appear a number of country seats, with the farm houses and cultivation in the neighborhood of Athens and Cats- kill, bounded by the lofty Katsberghs, rising in the back ground and mingling their rugged summits with the clouds. The Hudson and Berkshire rail road, extending from Hudson to the village of West Stockbridge, is about 30 miles long. From the latter point a road is to be con- structed to Springfield, from whence a rail road extends to Boston, noticed in the " Route from Albany to Bos- ton," post. CoxsACKiE Landing, where are several houses and stores, is on the west side of the river, 8 miles north of Hudson. From thence to Kinderhook Landing, on the east side, is 2 miles. The village of Kinderhook is 5 miles east. Four miles further north is the village of New-Baltimore, (west side ;) thence to Coeymans, (same side,) 2 miles — thence to Schodack village (same side) 2 miles — thence to Castleton Landing (east side) 2 miles — thence to Albany 8 miles. 116 ALBANY. ALBANY Is the capital of the state of New- York, and in point of wealth, population, trade and resources, is the second city in the state, and the sixth or seventh in the union. It is situated on the west side of the Hudson river, and near the head of tide water. It was settled in 1 612 ; and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the oldest settlement in the United States. In 1614, a small fort and trading house were built by the Dutch on an island half a mile below the site of the present city ; and soon afterwards Fort Orange, where the city now stands. The place was first called Aurania ; then Beverwyck, till 1625; then Fort Orange till 1647, and Williamstadt till 1664. For a long time after its foundation it was enclosed with pali- sadoes or pickets, as a defence against the Indians, who were then numerous and powerful in its vicinity. Though the first appearance of this city is not prepos- sessing to a stranger, still the taste which has been dis- played in the construction of its public and private build- ings — the constant din of commercial business which assails the ear of the traveller — the termination of the Erie canal and the Mohawk and Hudson rail road at this place, and many other attendant circimistances, render Albany an important and interesting spot. The city is divided into five wards, and contains many superb and elegant buildings. The principal avenues are Market, Pearl, and State streets. The two former run parallel with the river, and the latter is very spacious, extending from the Capitol to the Hudson, nearly east and west. Besides these, there are many other streets. ALBANY. 117 less considerable in extent, but populous and crowded with shops and stores. The Capitol, which contains the legislative halls, the supreme and chancery court rooms of the state, the state library, and other apartments for public business, stands at the head of State street, on an elevation of 130 feet above the level of the river. It is a substantial stone ed- ifice, erected at an expense of ^120,000. It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 feet high, consisting of two stories and a basement. The Public Square, fronting the Capitol, is arranged in the style of a park, and is surrounded by a costly iron railing, having several delightful walks and avenues. North of the capitol stands the Academy, one of the most elegantly constructed buildings in the city. It con- sists of free stone, 3 stories high, and 90 feet of front. The City Hall, fronting the foot of Washington street, and near the capitol square, is a costly edifice of white marble, displaying much taste in its structure, and is or- namental to the part of the city in which it stands. The dome is gilded, and is a conspicuous object at some dis- tance from the city. The new State Hall, located north of the City Hall, is constructing of white marble, and, when finished, will not be surpassed by any edifice in the city. It will con- tain the offices of the secretary of state, comptroller, treasurer, surveyor general, attorney general, register in chancery, and clerk of the supreme court. The Female Academy, in North Pearl street, a beau- tiful and classical edifice, commanding a view of the east- 118 ALBANY. ern part of the city and opposite shore of the Hudson, under its popular principal, Mr. Cruttenden, receives an extensive patronage. The Baptist Church, on the same side of the street, and but a few doors from the Academy, is also a very elegant structure. The pediments of both buildings pro- jecting at suitable distances from each other, give a very fine appearance to the street, by relieving the monotony of the long line of dwelling-houses in the neighborhood, without materially obstructing the view of the whole. There are also 20 other houses of public worship, seve- ral of which exhibit much taste in their architecture, six banks, and one of the best museums in the country. The Merchant's Exchange, built of granite, is located on the corner of State and North Market streets. Hotels. — The principal hotels in Albany, are the Ea- gle Tavern, South Market street ; American Hotel, State street ; Congress Hall, Capitol Square ; Mansion House, City Hotel and Temperance House, North Market street. These are all first rate establishments, handsomely furnish- ed and well kept. On a less expensive scale, are the Fort Orange Hotel, Columbian Hotel, and Montgomery Hall, South Market street ; and the Franklin House and Rail Road Hotel, State street. During the sessions of the New- York Legislature, Al- bany is crowded with strangers, and contains much of the legal talent and learning of the state. The city is eli- gibly situated for trade, being a great thoroughfare for the northern and western sections of the country. EXCURSION TO THE SPRINGS. 119 The Albany Basin, where the waters of the Erie canal unite with the Hudson, consists of a part of the river in- cluded between the shore and an artificial pier erected 80 feet in width and 4300 feet in length. The pier contains about 8 acres, and is connected with the city by draw bridges. It is a grand and stupendous work, on which spacious and extensive stores have been erected, and where an immense quantity of lumber and other articles of trade are deposited. The basin covers a surface of 32 acres. EXCURSION TO THE SPRINGS. There are two distinct routes — one by the way of Schenectady, the other by the way of Troy. We give a sketch of each. Route by the way of Schenectaday — 37 miles. The intermediate distances are as follow : Miles. From Albany to Buel's Farm, 3 Schenectady, 12 Miles. Ballston Lake, 10 Ballston Spa, 5 Saratoga Springs, .... 7 The route is by the way of the Mohawk and Hudson and the Saratoga and Schenectady rail roads, the hne being continuous to Saratoga Springe, and a passage effected in about 3 1-2 hours. The carriages of the Mo- hawk and Hudson company start several times a day from the depot on the north side of State street, a little below the Capitol Square in Albany, and the trains on the Saratoga and Schenectady road are made to corres- pond therewith. k2 120 SCHENECTADY. The Farm and Nursery of the late Jesse Buel, Esq. under a high state of cultivation, are crossed by the rail road, about three miles from Albany. At the " head of the plane," within a mile of the western extremity of the rail road, a beautiful view is obtained of the Erie canal, the Mohawk river, and the city of Schenectady. A double stationary engine is placed here, v/liich is used in letting carriages down a de- clivity of 115 feet, half a mile in extent. From thence the road extends to the city, uniting with the Saratoga and with the Utica rail roads, the latter of which is no- ticed in the route to Buffalo, post. SCHENECTADY, Ffteen miles from Albany, and 22 from Saratoga Springs, is situated on the Mohawk, a broad and beauti- ful river, which forms its northern boundary. It was burnt by the Indians in 1690, and suffered a considerable conflagration in 1819, since which event the antique ap- pearance of the city has been much improved by the in- troduction of modern architecture. Union College is built on an eminence, which over- looks the city and the Mohawk for a number of miles. The college consists at present of two brick edifices, but the plan includes a chapel and other bulidings hereafter to be erected, in the rear, and between those already con- structed. At this institution about 100 students are an- nually graduated. In numbers and respectabilty Unior College may be ranked among the most favored semina. ries in our country. BALLSTON LAKE. 121 The city contains three banks, six churches, a spacious and handsome city hall, and a population of about 6000 inhabitants. The Saratoga and Schenectady rail road, passing through the city, crosses the Mohawk river on a substan- tial bridge between 8 and 900 feet long, and extends in a northerly direction over a heavy embankment for three fourths of a mile to a deep cut, where the Utica road di- verges to the west, and the Saratoga to the northeast. This course is pursued until it enters the valley of the Eelplace creek, when it curves and maintains a northerly course, passing along the elegant and verdant banks of the Ballston Lake, and enters the eastern part of the vil. lage of Ballston Spa, on a curvature of considerable ex- tent. From this point the road passes in a northerly direction over the main street, on a bridge about 15 feet high, and by means of a heavy embankment, reaches the high grounds north of the village. From thence a north- easterly course is taken across the Kayaderosseras creek, and continues in nearly a straight line to Saratoga Springs. Ballston Lake, or Long Lake as it is sometimes call- ed, is 10 miles from Schenectady. A farm house between the lake and road, owned by Mr. Ehsha Curtis, was for- merly the residence of a man of the name of M'Donald, the guide of Sir William Johnson, on his first visit to the mineral springs at Saratoga, in 1767. Mr. M'D. was a native of Ireland, and on his first arrival in America, set- tled with his brother, in 1763, on this spot, where he con- tinued to reside until his decease, in 1823. Sir William passed some days at this house at the time of the visit 122 BALLSTON SPA. above mentioned. The lake is a beautiful sheet of water 5 miles long and 1 broad. The scenery around affords a pleasant landscape of cultivation and wood lands, no less inviting to the sportsman than the soft bosom of the lake and its finny inhabitants to the amateurs of the rod. BALLSTON SPA, Is 5 miles farther. The village lies in the town of Milton, in the county of Saratoga; and is situated in a low valley, through the centre of which flows a branch of the Kayaderosseras, with whose waters it mingles at the east end of the village. The natural boundaries of Ballston Spa are well defined by steep and lofty hills of sand on the north and west, and by a ridge of land which gradually slopes inward, and encircles the village on the south and east. The broad and ample Kayaderosseras flows on the northeast boundary of the village, and fur- nishes a favorite resort for the sportsman or for the loit- erer along its verdant banks. The village contains 150 houses, and about 1400 inhabitants. Besides the court house for the county, located here, there are 4 churches, a bank, 2 printing offices and a book-store, with which a reading room is connected, for the accom- modation of visitants. Ballston Spa principally derives its celebrity from the mineral springs which flow here and at Saratoga in equal abundance. The spring first discovered in the vicinity stands on the flat in the west part of the village. Under an impression that the stone curb and flaging with which it was formerly surrounded, had an influence, by their weight, in diverting a portion of the fountain from its BALLBTON SPA. 123 natural course, they were removed some years since, so that it is now merely surrounded with an iron railing. The spring flows now, probably, from the place where it originally issued, some feet below the surrounding sur- face, which has been elevated by additions of earth, for the purpose of improving the street in which it stands. Near this spring, in boring a few years since, a mineral fountain called the New Washington Spring, was dis- covered at a considerable depth beneath the surface. Its qualities are somewhat similar to those of the spring last mentioned. The Sans Souci Spring is situated in the rear of the Sans Souci, and is considered the most prominent foun- tain in the village. According to an analysis of Doct. Steel, one gallon of the water contains the following in- gredients : chloride of sodium, 143 2-3 grs. ; bicarbonate of soda 12 1-2 grs. ; bicarbonate of magnesia, 39 grs. ; carbonate of lime, nearly 6 grs.; hydriodate of soda, 11-2 grs. ; silex, 1 gr. Near this fountain is a commodi- ous bathing house ; to which, not only the waters of this, but of a number of other adjacent springs, are tributary. Between the springs already mentioned, there was dis- covered in the summer of 1817, a mineral spring, called the Washington Fountain. It rose on the margin of the creek in front of the factory building, flowing through a curb 28 feet long, sunk to the depth of 23 feet, and was liberated at the top in the form of a beautiful jet cfeau ; but the spring disappeared in 1821. An effort to recover it in the summer of 1839, was partially successful ; but whether it can ever be restored to original purity and beauty, is very questionable. 124 BALLSTON SPA. Low's Spring is near the Sans Souci, and is very simi- lar to that fountain in its properties. The Park Spring is m the rear of the Village Hotel, and was obtained by boring to a depth of 270 feet. A copious stream flows therefrom. The water, however, affords much less of the salme substances than either of the other springs. The principal ingredients of these waters consist of muriate of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, and carbonate of iron ; all of which, in a greater or less degree, enter into the compo- sition of the waters, both here and at Saratoga. The principal boarding houses are the Sans Souci, the Village Hotel and Mansion House. The Sans Souci, with its yards and out-houses, occu- pies an area of some acres in the east part of the village. The plan of the building, with the extensive improve- ments around it, do much credit to the taste and libe- rality of its proprietor. The edifice is constructed of wood, three stories high, 160 feet in length, with two wings extending back 1^3 feet, and is calculated for the accommodation of 150 boarders. It is surrounded by a beautiful yard, ornamented with a variety of trees and shrubbery, which, with its extensive piazzas and spacious halls, render it a delightful retreat during the oppressive heat of summer. The Village Hotel is in a convenient situation, a few rods west of the Sans Souci. It is kept by the pro- prietor, Mr. Clark, and is in every respect an agreeable and pleasant boarding place. FROM ALBANY VIA TROY TO SARATOGA. 125 The Mansion House, near the rail road bridge, is also well kept by Mr. Williams, its tenant. Mails arrrive at and depart from Ballston Spa every day. Besides a post office at the village, there is one in the town of Ballston, about three miles distant, to which letters are frequently missent, owing to the neglect of correspondents in making the proper direction. The reading room and library may be resorted to at all times, and for a moderate compensation. Papers are there furnished from aU parts of the Union. Route from Albany by the way of Troy to Saratoga Springs — 37 miles. The intermediate distances are as follow : By stage or steamboat. Miles. From Albany to Troy, • 6 By rail road. Waterford, 4 Miles. Mechanicsville, 8 Ballston Spa, 12 Saratoga Springs, 7 A stage or steamboat can be taken hourly at Albany for Troy. By the former mode of conveyance, the first object which usually attracts the attention of the tourist is the mansion of Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer, the patroon, and a son of the late patroon of the manor of Rensselaerwick.* It stands immediately adjoining the northern bounderies of Albany, and is one of the most elegant situations in the United States. The Macadamized Road between Albany and West Troy, commences at this place. It runs parallel with the * This manor comprises a great portion of the counties of Albany and Rensselaer — the city and several patents excepted. 126 V. S. ARSENAL — WEST TROY. Erie canal, near its western bank, is between 5 and 6 miles long, of a width sufficient for three carriages to run abreast, and is one of the best roads on the con- tinent. It is the property of an incorporated company, who have expended between ^90,000 and ^100,000 in its construction. Five miles from Albany, in the village of West Troy, is the United States Arsenal, consisting of handsome brick and stone buildings, beautifully located on the wes- tern bank of the Hudson. There are here a large quan. tity of arms and munitions of war, with workshops for repairing them, manufacturing locks, &c. The muskets, bayonets, swords and pistols are arranged with great taste, and kept in fine order. Among the cannon in the yard are four 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, ta- ken at Saratoga ; four 12's and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one eight inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 poun- ders and 14 guns, sent by Louis XVI. to the continental congress in the revolution — all of brass, and most of them highly ornamented, with each an individual name and the inscription " ultima ratio regium." There are also three or four howitzers which were cast in New- York and Philadelphia in the revolution, bearing the initials U>. C. for United Colonies. The village of West Troy has rapidly increased with- in a few years. It contains a bank and several manu- facturing establishments, and is a place of much activity and enterprize. The river is here crossed in a ferry boat, to TROY. 127 TROY. The city is bounded on the east by a range of hills rising abruptly from the alluvial plain on which the city is situated, extending to the Hudson river. In point of location and beautiful natural scenery, Troy is exceed- ed by {ew, if any, of the towns and villages on the Hud- son. The streets, running north and south, converge to- gether at the north end of the city, and are crossed at right angles by those running east and west. The build- ings are principally built of brick, and are shaded by rows of trees on each side of the streets, which are pre- served remarkably clean by additions of slate and gravel instead of pavements. The city contains 6 banks, 12 churches, a court house, jail and market. The Episco- pal Church is a superb specimen of Gothic architecture, probably not exceeded in the United States. It has a venerable and imposing appearance, and needs nothing but a quantity of moss and ivy to make it the picture of one of those ancient abbeys so often to be met with in the wTitings of Sir Walter Scott. The New Presby- terian Church also displays great taste and hberality in its construction, and is highly ornamental to that part of the city in which it stands. The Court House, built of Sing Sing marble, is a splendid edifice after the Grecian model, perfectly chaste n and classic in all its parts. The Female Seminary, incorporated by an act of the ; legislature, is a large three story brick building erected by the city corporation. The institution is under the government of a female principal, assisted by vice princi- 128 TROY. pals and several teachers, whose exertions have given it a deserved celebrity over similar institutions in the state. PUBLIC HOUSES. The Troy House, near the termination of the rail road in River street, is a spacious and elegant establishment, with a court yard in the centre, and kept in a style cor- responding with that of the most favored establishments in the union. The Mansion House, a little farther north, is on a scale equally chaste and spacious, in front of which is a handsome square and a beautiful marble fountain or jet Cfeau, which diffuses a delightful coolness through the atmosphere, and attracts the observation of every stran^ ger. The Washington Hall, National Hotel and Amer- ICAN Hotel are also very neat establishments, and well patronized. The city is abundantly supplied with excellent water from the neighboring hills, on the Philadelphia plan, ex- cept, that in that city it is raised by artificial means, and in this by its natural head, being 75 feet above the level I of the city. On the corner of each street is a hydrant, and a hose placed on this sends the water up higher and with much greater force than a fire engine. From this source is obtained the supply for several artificial ^un- tains on the public squares and in private gardens. Troy is proverbial for its enterprise. This, with its local advantages, have given it a growth and prosperity equal- led by few and excelled by none of the cities at the north. Its population in 1830 was 11,605 ; in 1835, 16,959 ; and at the present period (1840) cannot be less than 20,000. * RENSSELAER AND SARATOGA RAIL ROAD. 129 North-east of the plain upon which Troy is built, and about a quarter of a mile from the river, Mount Ida rises abruptly to the heigh !, of three or four hundred feet ; from whose summit there is a very extensive prospect of the Hudson river and the adjacent country, embracing Wa- terford, Lansingburgh, the locks at the junction of the Erie and Champlain canals, nearly the whole of Troy, and a part of Albany. About a mile above the city, a dam has been thrown across the river, and a lock constructed, affording a sloop navigation to the village of Waterford. The Rensselaer and Saratoga Rail Road com- mences in River street near the Troy House, and passes up that street to the northern part of the city, where it crosses the main channel of the Hudson river on a superb covered bridge, 1512 feet long, to Green Island. From thence it proceeds in a northerly direction to Van Schaick's Island, which is connected witli Green Island by a bridge 482 feet long over one of the sprouts of the Mohawk river. Another bridge over another sprout is then passed in reaching Hawver Island ; and from thence to the village of Waterford a third bridge is crossed in passing over the third or minor sprout. At Waterford the road passes through one of the principal streets, and from thence continues a northerly course through the rich valley of the Hudson, between the river and the Cham- plain canal, for a distance of 8 miles, to Mcchanicsville ; when, after crossing the canal, it curves to the north- west, and pursuing the valley of " the creek," so called, passes the Round lake, about 4 miles from Mcchanics- ville. The Mourning creek is reached in going 6 miles 130 LANSINGBURGH WATERFORD. farther ; from whence the road runs nearly parallel with and in sight of the Saratoga and Schenectady rail road for a distance of two miles, to the village of Ballston Spa ; where the two roads unite, and the carnages of both roads, by an arrangement between the two companies, are taken in the same train to Saratoga Springs. From Green Island, a bridge extends across the west channel of the Hudson to West Troy. Van Schaick's Island is formed by the sprouts of the Mohawk river joining with the Hudson river, 3 miles north of Troy. This spot is noted for being the head quarters of the American army in 1777 ; from whence they marched, in September of the same year, to the de- cisive victory over Burgoyne, at Bemus' Heights. Lansingburgh, on the eastern bank of the Hudson, di- rectly opposite Van Schaick's Island, is principally built on a single street, running parallel with the river. A high hill rises abruptly behind the village, on which is seen the celebrated diamond rock, which at times emits a brilliant lustre from the reflected rays of the sun. The appearance of Lansingburgh by no means indicates a high state of prosperity, though it contains several very handsome private residences. The village has a bank, six places of public worship, and an academy. Its popu- lation is about 3000. Waterford is one mile farther. The village is situa- ted at the junction of the Mohawk with the Hudson, and derives considerable importance from the navigation of small vessels, which, by means of the lock and dam below, at most seasons of the year arrive and depart to and from COHOES FALLS — THE JUNCTION. 131 its docks. The village contains a population of about 1600 inhabitants. It enjoys many advantages for trade, and its importance is much increased by the Champlain canal, which here communicates with the Hudson river. A very permanent bridge crosses the Hudson at this place, connecting with a road leading to Laiisingburgh. At Waterford, if leisure will permit, the tourist will find it interesting to stop a day, for the purpose of visiting the CoHOEs Falls, and the adjoining factories on the Mo- hawk river, about a mile from the village. The perpen- dicular fall is about 40, and including the descent above, about 70 feet. The lofty barrier of rocks which confine the course of the Mohawk — the distant roar of the cata- ract — the dashing of the waters as they descend in rapids beneath you — and the striking contrast of the torrent with the solitude of the scenery above, contribute to render the whole an unusual scene of sublimity and grandeur. It was in taking a view of these falls, sev- eral years since, that the poet Moore composed one of his best fugitive pieces. Indeed, the scenery and every thing connected with this interesting spot, are calculated to afford ample subjects for the poet and painter. Between this place and Schenectady the canal is car- ried twice across the Mohawk. The lov/er aqueduct, as it is called, two and a half miles from the falls, is 1 1 88 feet — the other, 12 miles further, is 750 feet long. The Junction of the Erie and Champlain canals, about a mile from the falls, should also be visited in the ex- cursion. Here, within the space of three quarters of a mile, are 17 locks ; and the number of boats constantly l2 132 SARATOGA SPRINGS. passing through, present a spectacle of activity and bu- siness of a higlily novel character. Mechanicsville, 8 miles from Waterford, (pursuing the route of the rail road,) is a small manufacturing vil- lage on the bank of the Hudson. The hydraulic power, however, here derived, is from " the creek," the outlet of the Round lake, mentioned at page 129. Ballston Spa, 12 miles farther, has been already no- ticed at p. 122. SARATOGA SPRINGS Is situated seven miles northeasterly from Ballston Spa. The village is located on an elevated spot of ground, surrounded by a productive level country, and enjoys, if not the advantage of prospect, at least a salubrious air and climate, contributing much to the health and benefit of its numerous visitants. It contains about 200 dwellings, and a population of 2000 inhabitants. The springs, so justly celebrated for their medicinal virtues, are situated on the margin of a vale, bordering the village on the east, and are the continuation of a chain of springs discovering themselves about 12 miles to the south, in the town of Ballston, and extending easterly in the form of a crescent, to the Quaker village, 7 or 8 miles in an easterly direc- tion from Saratoga Springs. The springs in the immedi- ate vicinity of the latter place are lO or 12 in number, the principal of which are the Congress, the Iodine or Walton, Putnam's Congress, the Monroe, the Hamilton, the Flat Rock, the High Rock, the Columbian and the Washington. A new spring, affording a very copious supply and apparently very saline, was discovered in the SARATOGA SPRINGS. 133 fall of 1839, a short distance south of the Flat Rock; but no analysis had been made at the time of the publi- cation of this volume, to enable us to speak particularly of its properties. About a mile northeast of the village, there are also a cluster of fountains, called the Ten Springs. The Congress Spring is situated at the south end of the village, and is owned by Doct. John Clarke ; to whose liberality the public are much indebted for the im- provements that have been made in the grounds adjoin- ing the fountain, for the purity in which its waters are preserved, and for an elegant colonnade erected over the spring, affording a convenient promenade to visitants. The spring was first discovered in the summer of 1792, issuing from a crevice in the rock, a few feet from its present location. Here it flowed for a number of years, until an attempt to improve the surface around it pro- duced an accidental obstruction of its waters, which af- terwards made their appearance at the place where they now flow. It is enclosed by a tube sunk into the earth to the distance of 12 or 14 feet, which secures it from the water of a stream, adjoining which it is situated. From an analysis made by Doct. Steel, it appears that a gallon of the water contains the following substances : chloride of sodium, 385 grs, ; hydriodate of soda, 3 1-2 grs. ; bicarbonate of soda, nearly 9 grs. ; bicarbonate of magnesia, nearly 96 grs. ; carbonate of hme, a httle more than 98 grs. ; carbonate of iron, upwards of 5 grs. ; silex 1 1 .2 grs. ; carbonic acid gas, 31 1 cubic inches ; atmos- pheric air, 7 do. 134 SARATOGA SPRINGS. To this spring perhaps more than any other spot on the globe, are seen repairing, in the summer mornings before breakfast, persons of almost ever}^ grade and condition, from the most exalted to the most abject : the beautiful and the deformed — the rich and the poor — the devotee of pleasure and the invalid — all congregate here, for pur- poses as various as are their situations in life. To one fond of witnessing the great diversity in the human char- acter, this place affords an ample field for observation. So well, indeed, has it been improved by the little urchins who dip water at the fountain, that an imposing exterior is sure to procure for its possessor their services, while in- dividuals less richly attired, or whose physiognomy indi- cate a less liberal disposition, are often compelled to wait till it is more convenient to attend to their wants. Most persons soon become fond of the water ; but the effect on those who taste it for the first time is fre- quently unpleasant. To such the other fountains are generally more palatable, having a less saline taste than the Congress. The Iodine or Walton Spring, is located a few rods north of the High Rock, and was discovered in the au- tumn of 1838. It flows copiously through a tube sunk to a depth of 6 or 8 feet — is very pure and pungent — and while it contains most of the properties of the other foun- tains, in a greater or less degree, is remarkable for its free- dom from iron. According to an analysis made by Pro- fessor Emmons, one gallon of this water contains, muriate of soda, 137 grs. ; carbonate of lime, 26 grs. ; carbonate of iron, 1 gr. ; carbonate of magnesia, 75 grs. ; carbonate of soda, 2 grs. ; hydriodate of soda, or iodine, 3 1-2 grs. ; SARATOGA SPRINGS. 135 carbonic acid gas, 330 cubic inches ; atmospheric air, 4 inches. The approach to this fountain has been rendered easy ; and it is already beginning to be a place of very consid- erable resort. It bids fair, indeed, to become as efficacious and celebrated as any mineral spring yet discovered. The Monroe Spring, a few rods north of the Flat Rock, is remarkable for its sparkling and pungent quahties, and is justly ranked among the favored fountains of the village. Near it is a strong sulphur spring, (recently discover- ed,) which supplies a commodious bathing estabUshment on the premises. Putnam's Congress (deriving its name from the dis- coverer and owner) is a few rods north of the Hamilton Spring. A mineral fountain flowed from the same local- ity for several years, without any particular notice, and the present sprmg has been obtained by sinking a tube to a considerable depth. It is a valuable and popular fountai n. The High Rock is situated on the west side of the valley, skirting the east side of the village, about half a mile north of the Congress. The rock enclosing this spring is in the shape of a cone, 9 feet in diameter at its base, and five feet in height. It seems to have been formed by a concretion of particles thrown up by the water, which formerly flowed over its summit through an aperture of about 12 inches diameter, regularly di- verging from the top of the cone to its base- This spring was visited in the year 1767 by Sir William Johnson, but was known long before by the Indians, who were 136 SARATOGA SPRINGS. first led to it either by accident or by the frequent haunts of beasts, attracted thither by the sahne properties of the water. A building was erected near the spot previous to the revolutionary war ; afterwards abandoned, and again resmned ; since whicli the usefulness of the water has, from time to time, occasioned frequent settlements with- in its vicinity. The water now rises within 2 feet of the summit, and a common notion prevails that it has found a ])assage through a fissure of the rock occasioned by the fall of a tree ; since which event it has ceased to flow over its bruik. This opinion, however, may be doubted. It is probable that the decay of the rock, which commenced its formation on the natural surface of the earth, may have yielded to the constant motion of the water, and at length opened a passage between its decayed base and the loose earth on which it was formed. This idea is strengthened from the external appearance of the rock at its eastern base, which has already been penetrated by the implements of curiosity a number of inches. Between the Iodine Spring in tlie upper village, and the Washington in the south part of the lower village, are situated most of the other mineral springs in which this place abounds. At four of the principal fountains, the Putnam's Congress, Hamilton, Monroe and Washing- ton, large and convenient bathing houses have been erect- ed, which are constantly resorted to for pleasure as well as health, during the warm season. The mineral waters both at Ballston and Saratoga are supposed to be the product of the same great labrato- ry, and they all possess nearly the same properties, va- SARATOGA SPRINGS. 137 rying only as to the quantity of the different articles held in solution. They are denominated acidulous saline and acidulous chalybeate. Of the former are the Congress, Iodine, Monroe, Putnam's Congress, the Hamilton, and High Rock, at Saratoga ; and of the latter are the Co- lumbian, Flat Rock, and Washington, at Saratoga, and the Old Spring, and Sans Souci, at Ballston. The waters contain muriate of soda, hy driodatc of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, oxide of iron, and some of them a minute quantity of sUicia and alumina. Large quantities of carbonic acid gas are also contained in the waters, giving to them a sparkling and lively appearance. The late Doct. Steel, in his geological report of the county of Saratoga, published a few years since, remarks, that " the temperature of the water in all these wells is about the same, rangmg from 48 to 52 degrees on Faren- heifs scale ; and they suffer no sensible alteration from any variation in the temperature of the atmosphere ; nei- ther do the variations of the seasons appear to have much effect on the quantity of water produced. " The waters are remarkably Hmpid, and when first dipped sparkle with all the life of good champaign. The saline waters bear bottling very well, particularly the Congress,* immense quantities of which are put up in this way, and transported to various parts of the world ; not, however, without a considerable loss of its gaseous prop- erty, which renders its taste much more insipid than when drank at the well. The chalybeate water is also * The water of the Iodine Spring is also equally favor- able for bottling. 138 SARATOGA SPRINGS. put up in bottles for transportation, but a very trifling loss of its gas produces an immediate precipitation of its iron ; and hence this water, when it has been bottled for some time, frequently becomes turbid, and finally loses every trace of iron ; this substance fixing itself to the walls of the bottle. " The most prominent and perceptible effects of these waters, when taken into the stomach, are cathartic, diu. retic and tonic. They are much used in a great variety of complaints ; but the diseases in v/hich they are most efficacious are jaundice and bilious affections generally, dyspepsia, habitual costiveness, hypochondrical com- plaints, depraved appetite, calculous and enphritic com- plaints, phagedenic or ill-conditioned ulcers, cutaneous eruptions, chronic rheumatism, some species or states of gout, some species of dropsy, scrofula, paralysis, scorbutic affections and old scorbutic ulcers, amenorrhea, dysme- norrhea and clorosis. In phthisis, and indeed all other pulmonary affections arising from primary diseases of the lungs, the waters are manifestly injurious, and evidently tend to increase the violence of the disease. " Much interest has been excited on the subject of the source of these singular waters ; but no researches have as yet unfolded the mystery. The large proportion of common salt found among their constituent properties may be accounted for without much difficulty — all the salt springs of Europe, as v/ell as those of America, being found in geological situations exactly corresponding to these ; but the production of the unexampled quantity of carbonic acid gas, the medium through which the other articles are held in solution, is yet, and probably will re- SARATOGA SPRINGS, 139^ iriam a subject of mere speculation. The low and regu- lar temperature of the water seems to forbid the idea that it is the eifect of subterranean heat, as many have sup- posed, and the total absence of any mineral acid, except- ing the muriatic, which is combined with soda, does away the possibility of its being the efFect of any combination of that kind. Its production is therefore truly unaccount- able."* In addition to the springs already enumerated, a sul- phur SPRING was discovered a few years since in the vi- * An analysis of the waters at this place and at Ballston Spa was made and published by Doct. Steel some years since, which received the sanction of the most scientific men in this country and in Europe. Subsequently, and shortly before his death in 1838, he prepared an entire new work, which has since been published, embracing not only an analysis of the springs and directions for their use in the various diseases in which they have proved beneficial, but also a full and interesting history of their discovery, and of the rise and progress of the villages in which they are located. The literary attainments of Doct. S. and his great experience from a long residence at this place, enabled him to render this work far su- perior to any thing of the kind which has appeared, or which will probably soon appear. It ought also to be remarked, that no invalid should attempt the use of these waters without the direction of a physician well acquaint- ed with their properties. A contrary course, under the too prevalent and erroneous impression that they may be drank in all complaints, in any quantity, and at all hours of the day, has been attended in many instances with deleterious and sometimes with fatal consequences. There can be no doubt of their great efficacy in most complaints, when properly used ; yet ill-timed and too copious draughts not only fail of removing complaints, but frequently engender them. 146 SARATOGA BPRINGS. cinity of the Hamilton Spring, in the rear of the Congress Hall. It rises from a depth of about 20 feet, and afFords an ample supply of water for the bathing house with which it is connected. The boarding establishments of the first class at Sara- toga Springs are the Congress Hall and Union Hall at the south end of the village, the Pavilion at the north, and the United States Hotel in a central situation be- tween them. Besides these, there are a number of other boarding houses on a less extensive scale, the most noted of vrhich are the American and the Adelphi in the south part, the Columbian Hotel and Washington Hall in the north part of the village, and the Rail Road House cen- trally located. Prospect Hall, kept by Mr, Benjamin R. Putnam, is on a beautiful site about one mile north-west of the village, and is a very respectable establishment. Higliland Hall, half a mile south of the Congress Spring, is also a pleasant house, and well patronized. The Congress Halt., kept by Messrs, Seaman and Munger, is situated within a few rods of the Congress Spring, to which a handsome vf alk shaded with trees has been constructed for the convenience of guests. The edifice is 200 feet in length, 3 stories high besides an at- tic, and has two wings extending back, one 60, and the other about 100 feet. In front of the hall, handsomely shaded with shrubbery and trees, is a spacious piazza, So feet in width, expending the whole length of the building, with a canopy from the roof, supported by 17 columns, each of which is gracefully entwined with woodbine. There is also a back piazza, which opens upon a beautiful garden annexed to the establishment. SARATOGA SPRINGS, 141 and a small grove of pines, afFordinj^ both fragrance and shade to its numerous guests. The Congress Hall can accommodate from 250 to 300 visitants, and is justly ranked among the most elegant establishments in the union. The United States Hotel, kept by Messrs. Thomas and Marvin, with its gardens and out buildings, occupies a space in the centre of the village of about five acres. The main building is composed of brick, 186 feet long, 3& feet wide, and 4 stories high. It has two wings extend- ing westwardly — one 204 feot, and the other 163 feet long. Attached to the establishment are also two cotta- ges, contiguous to one of the wings. A broad piazza stretches across the main building in front, and is con- nected with piazzas in the rear, so as to form a continu- ous promenade of more than 700 feet. The interior arrangements are on a proportionate scale — the dining room being 200 feet long, and with the drawing-rooms, pubUc and private parlours, equalling if not surpassing, in extent and elegance, any similar establishment. The groimd in the rear is handsomely laid out into walks, and the whole tastefully ornamented with trees and shrubbery. The front is also shaded by a double row of forest trees extending the whole length of the building.- 1 he hotel is situated equi- distant from the Congress and Flat Rock springs, commanding a view of the whole village ; and from its fourth story a distinct prospect is had of the sur- rounding country for a number of miles. This establish- ment can accommodate 400 visitants, and is probably the largest and one of the most expensive of the kind in the United States. 142 SARATOGA SPRINGS. The Pavilion is located in a pleasant part of the villa^, immediately in front of the Flat Rock spring. The building is constructed of wood, 136 feet long, with a wing extending back from the centre of the main buildmg 80 feet, and another extending along Church street, of 200 feet, affording numerous private parlors, communi- eating with lodging rooms, for the convenience of families. The main building is two and a half stories high, with the addition of an attic which, with the handsome piazza in front, sustained by delicate colonnades, renders it, in beau- ty and proportion, one of the first models of architecture in the country. The large rooms of the Pavilion are so •constructed, that by means of folding doors the whole of the lower apartments may be thrown into one — an advan- tage which gives much additional interest to the promen- ade and cotillion parties, which frequently assemble on this extensive area. Handsome walks, shaded with trees, are attached to the establishment, affording its guests ample space for a quiet and cool retreat. The Pavilion is calculated for the accommodation of about 250 visi- tants. The Union Hall is one of the earliest and most re- spectable establishments in the vicinity, and is situated directly opposite the Congress Hall. It presents a hand- some front, 120 feet long, 3 stories high, with two wings extending west 60 feet, and also an adjoining building, nearly 100 feet long, fitted up with parlors, &c. for private families. The Hall is ornamented in front by 10 col- umns, which rise to nearly the height of the building, and support the roof of a spacious piazza. A garden in the rear also contributes to the pleasantness of the establish- SARATOGA SPRINGS. 14? ment. It is kept by Messrs. R. &, W. Putnam, and ranks in point of elegance and respectability with ther most favored public houses in the vicinity. The American Hotel, a few doors north of the Union Hall, is a spacious brick building, recently erected by its proprietor, Mr. Wilcox, and is fitted up and kept in a style to ensure it a liberal patronage. The Adelphi Hotel, adjoining on the north, is also a large budding of brick, 3 stories high, and is well fur- nished and well kept by its proprietor, Mr. Sadler. The Columbian Hotel stands a few yards south of the Pavilion. Annexed to the establishment is a handsome garden, lying on three sides of the building, which adds much to the beauty and advantage it enjoys in point of natural location. The Washington Hall, is beautifully located at the' north part of the village, and is patronized by strangers who do not wish to mingle in the pleasvures of the larger establishments. The price of board per week at the respective houses" is from 4 to 12 dollars. The Reading Rooms and Library are in a neat build- ing three doors north of the U. S. Hotel. Nearly 100 newspapers from various parts of the Union and the Can- adas, and about 2000 volumes of well selected books for' circulation, embracing the modern publications, are kept in these rooms. A register of the names of visitants at" the Springs is also open for inspection at the establish- ment. The names thus entered frequently number from 10 to 12,000 in the course of the season. m2 144 SARATOGA LAKE. At both the villages of Ballston and Saratoga Springs, there are always suiScient objects of amusement to ren- der the transient residence of their summer guests pleas- ant and agreeable. Those whose taste is not otherwise gratified can always enjoy a mental recreation at the reading rooms ; a ride on the rail road, carriages for which leave both villages several times a day ; or a short excursion in the neighborhood, where sufficient beauty and novelty of scenery are always presented to render it interesting. The amusements of the day are usually crown- ed with a ball or promenade. The respective apartments appropriated for these occasions are calculated to accom- modate from 250 to 300 guests ; but they often contain a much greater number. The spacious areas of the cotilhon rooms, when enli- vened by the associated beauty and gayety resorting to the Springs, present an unusual degree of novelty and fascination. About two miles east from Saratoga Springs there is a small fish pond, situated on the farm of a Mr. Barheydt. Parties often resort thither, as well to enjoy the amuse- ments of fishing as to partake of a repast on trout, the proprietor reserving to himself the exclusive privilege of serving them up. Still farther east, about 4 miles from the Springs, is situated the Saratoga Lake. This lake is 9 mUes long and 3 broad. Sail boats are fitted up at the Lake House, for the accommodation of parties of pleasure, and implements for fishing are always in readiness for those who take pleasure in this fashionable diversion. The western shores of the lake are accessible but in a few places, in BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 145 consequence of the adjacent marshes ; on the east side the land is more elevated, and presents a fine prospect of farms under good improvement. The Lake is supplied •with water from the Kayaderosseras creek, which, taking its rise about 20 miles in a northwest direction, and re- ceiving in its course a number of tributary streams, flows into the lake on the west side. Fish creek forms its out- let, through which the waters of the lake are communi- cated to the Hudson river, about 8 miles distant in an easterly direction. Tliis creek empties into the Hudson river at Schuylerville, noticed at p, 147. Bemus' Heights, rendered memorable as the spot on which the British army under Gen. Burgoyne was defeat- ed in the revolutionary contest, are about 8 miles in a south-easterly direction from the Lake House. The battle ground is 2 miles west of the Hudson river ; and though without much to attract in its location or sur- rounding scenery, will nevertheless prove interesting from its association with events which greatly contributed to the establishment of American independence. The two actions which preceded the surrender of the British army were fought on the 19th of September, 1777, ; and on the 17th of October following. On the morning of the 8th, the American army marched into the British samp, which had been deserted the evening previous. The enemy continued to retreat till they had reached the height beyond the Fish creek, where they encamped on the 10th, Finding his retreat cut off by a party of troops, who had taken possession in his rear, and his advance i impeded by superior numbers, General Burgoyne accepted the terms of capitulation, proposed by General Gates, and 146 BEMUS' HEIGHTS. surrendered his whole army to the American forces on the 17th October, 1777. The surrender took place at Fort Hardy, where the British stacked their arms, and were permitted to march out with the honors of war. Freeman's Farm, on which the principal actions were fought, is immediately east of the main road running north and south, a road passing directly across it to the Hudson river, in an eastwardly direction. In a meadow adjoining the first mentioned road, about ten rods south 'of a blacksmith's shop, and near the fence, is the spot where Gen. Frazer fell.* A large bass wood tree marked the place for a time ; but having been cut down, several sprouts which have sprung up from the parent stock, now designate the spot. A few rods directly south of this, on a slight eminence, is shown the place where Col. Cilley sat astride of a brass twelve pounder, exulting in its capture ; and about half a mile still farther south is shown the house yet standing, which was used by Gen. Gates as his head quarters. In proceeding to the river, the hill on which Gen. Fra- zer is buried is pointed out, about a mile and a half east of the battle groimd, and 20 rods north of the road. His remains were deposited, at his request, within a redoubt on the top of this hill. The redoubt, which is of an ob- long form, from 100 to 150 feet in diameter, is still per- fectly visible ; and the spot of Gen. Frazer's interment s near the centre, though no monument of any description * Gen. Frazer was second in command to Gen. Bui- goyne, and died on the bth October, 1777, from wound' received in battle the day previous. 1 J^u SCHUYLER-VILLE. 14T Jias ever been erected to mark the place where the remains of this gallant warrior repose. Smith's House, in which Gen. Frazer died, and which at that time stood near the foot of this hill, has been re- moved about 80 rods in a northeasterly direction to the turnpike. It is a low old fashioned Dutch building, with the gable end to the river, painted yellow — the sides red,, and shingle roof. The entrance is towards the river, un- der a dilapidated portico — the whole bearing the marks of antiquity. The room in which Gen. Frazer died is di- rectly in front, and has undergone no material change since his death. Eight miles north of this, on the turnpike, is the vil- lage of Schuyler. ViLLE, noted as the residence of the late Gen. Schuyler, and still more so as the place where Gen. Burgoyne surrendered to the American army in Octobers 1777. The ground on whioh the surrender took place, was in a vale nearly east, and in plain view of the stage house on the turnpike in the village, and still exhibits the re- mains of an entrenchment called Fort Hardy. About 40 rod* in a southeast direction, at the mouth of Fish creek, is the site of Fort Schuyler. The arms of the British were stacked in the vale in front of Fort Hardy, and from thence they were marched to the high grounds a little west of the village, and admitted to parol as pris- oners of war. At the southern extremity of the vale is a basin for the Champlain canal, which passes through this place. About half a mile south of the basin stands a 148 FORT EDWARD. house located on the spot where once stood the mansion of Gen. Schuyler, which, with other buildings, were burnt by the British army on theu: retreat from the battle of the 7th October. The village contains 80 or 90 houses, and an extensive cotton factory and machine shop. Fort-Edward is 12 miles north of Schuyler-Ville. It is not on the usual route of travellers from the Springs to Lake George ; but being a short distance only from Sandy Hill, it may be easily visited. The fort, once situated where the village now stands, has long since been demol- ished ; though its former location is easily traced in the mounds of earth which are still visible. About 100 rods north of the village is a dam across the Hudson river, 27 feet high and 900 feet long, supplying with water a feeder to the Champlain canal. A little north of this, on the west side of the road, the traveller is shown a large pine tree, with a spring near its foot, memorable as the spot where Miss M'Crea was murdered by the Indians during the revolutionary war. She was betrothed to a Mr. Jones, an American refugee, who was in Burgoyne's army. Anxious for a union with his intended bride, he despatched a party of Indians to escort her to the British camp. Against the remon- strance of her friends, she committed herself to the charge of these Indians. She was placed on horseback, and ac- companied her guides to the spring in question, where they were met by another party, sent on the same er- rand. An altercation ensued between them as to the promised reward, and while thus engaged, they were at- tacked by the whites. At the close of the conflict, the , SANDY HILL — GLEN's FALLS. 14S^ unhappy young woman was found a short distance from the spring, tomahawked and scalped. There is a tradition that her scalp was divided by the respective parties, and carried to her agonized lover. He is said to have sur- vived the shock but a short time, and to have died of a broken heart. The name of Miss M'Crea is inscribed on a tree, with the date 1777. Her remains were disinterred a few years since, and deposited in the church-yard at Sandy-HiU. Sandy Hill is two miles from Fort Edward, on the route from Saratoga Springs to Lake George. It is situ- ated on very elevated ground, on the margin of the Hud- son river, immediately above Baker's Falls, about 19 miles from the Springs. The streets are laid out in the form of a triangle. In the centre is an open area, sur- rounded by handsomely constructed stores and dwellings. The village contains about 100 houses and 600 inhabi- tants. The courts of the county are held alternately here and at Salem. Glen's Falls, a village more populous, is 3 miles fur- ther up the Hudson river, on the direct route to Lake George. At this place are the celebrated falls from which the village takes its name. These are situated about one fourth of a mile south of the village, near a bridge, extending partly over the falls, and from which the best view of thom may be had. The falls are formed by the waters of the Hudson, which flow in one sheet over the brink of the precipice, but are immediately di- vided by the rocks into three channels. The height of the falls is ascertained, by measurement, to be 63 feet ; 150 GliEN'S FALLS — JESSUP's FALLS. though the water flows in an angular descent of 4 or 500 feet. Some rods below the falls is a long cave in the rocks, extending from one channel to the other. On its walls are inscribed a variety of names of former guests, who have thought proper to pay this customary tribute. The rocks, which are at some seasons covered with wa- ter, but at others entirely dry, are chequered with small indentations, and in many places considerable chasms are formed, probably by pebbles kept in motion by the falling water. It is very evident that these falls, like those of Niagara, were once a considerable distance low- er down the river — the banks below being composed of shelving rocks, from 30 to 70 feet perpendicular height, -On the north side of the river is a navigable feeder, com- municating with the Champlain canal. It commences nearly two miles above the falls, and, with the exception of about a quarter of a mile, which appears to have been cut out of a shelving rock, runs along a ravine east of Sandy Hill, and intersects the main canal some distance below.* *Jessup's Falls, which are about 10 miles above Glen's Falls on the Hudson, are worthy the attention of travellers. The whole scenery is highly lomantic and picturesque, and the descent of the falls, including the rapids a short distant above, is nearly 100 feet. Five miles further north are the Hadley Falls, which are a succession of pitches over a rocky and uneven bed. The whole descent, commencing at the upper fall, is between 80 and 100 feet. Over the lower fall a permanent bridge, about 50 feet from the water, is erected. The river here is contracted to a very narrow space, within lofty rocky embanlanents, between which the water rushes with great force and wildness into the basin below, uniting with the CALDWELL. 151 There are extensive quarries of black and variegated marble at Glen's Falls, which is here sawed into slabs and transported to New- York for manufacture. From Glen's Falls to Lake George the distance is 9 miles over an indifferent road, affording little other varie- ty than mountains and forests, with here and there a rus^ tic hamlet. Within three and a half miles of Lake George on the right hand, and a short distance from the road, is pointed out the rock at the foot of which Col. Williams was massacred by the Indians, during the French war. At the distance of half a mile farther, on the same side of the road, is the " Bloody Pond," so call- ed from its waters having been crimsoned with the blood of the slain who fell in its vicinity, during a severe en, gagement in 1755. Three miles farther is situated the village of Caldwell, on the south-western margin of the lake. This village contains a number of neat little buildings, and about 400 inhabitants. The Lake George Coffee House is fitted up in good style, and can accommodate Sacoudaga river, a large and rapid stream, which rises about 60 miles at the north-west. Both of these rivers abound with trout and other fish, affording ample em- ployment for those who are fond of angling. The country here is extremely rugged and mountainous, and presents but little appearance of cultivation. Travellers designing to visit these places, will find it the most convenient to take a carriage at Saratoga Springs, from which to Jessup's Falls is 14 miles, and to Hadley Falls 5 miles further. The route is over a good road, and, including a visit of two or three hours, may be easily performed (going and returning) in a day. J 52 LAKE GEORGE. from 80 to 100 visitants. There are here, also, a post- office, a church, and a court house. The village is bor- dered on the east by a range of hills, to the highest of which, called Prospect Hill, a road has been made, and though difficult of ascent, the pedestrian is richly com- pensated in the diversified and extensive prospect afford- ed him from its summit. LAKE GEORGE Is situated but a short day's ride from the village of Saratoga Springs, (27 miles,) from whence an excursion to the Lake is considered as a matter of course. At the village of Caldwell it is about a mile wide, but it general- ly varies from three fourths of a mile to four miles. The waters are discharged into Lake Champlain, at Ticonde- roga, by an outlet which, in the distance of 2 miles, falls 180 feet. Lake George is remarkable for the transparency of its waters. They are generally very deep, but at an ordi- nary depth the clean gravelly bottom is distinctly visible. The great variety of excellent fish which are caught here renders it a favorite resort for those who are fond of ang- ling. The lake is interspersed with a large number of small islands, the principal of which, Diamond Island, once containing a military fortification, and Tea Island, on which is a summer house erected for the amusement of parties of pleasure, are visible from the head of the lake. The whole number of islands is said to equal the number of days in a year. The scenery on the borders of the lake is generally mountainous. With the exception of some intervals, LAKE GEORGE. 153 chequered with fruitful cultivation, the land recedes from the shores with a gentle acclivity, for a few rods, and then, with a bolder ascent, to an elevation of from 500 to 1500 feet. The best view of the lake and its environs is had from the southern extremity, near the remains of old Fort George,* from whence the prospect embraces the village of Caldwell and the niunerous little islands rising from the waters, which are beautifully contrasted with the parallel ridges of craggy mountains, through an ex- tent of nearly 14 miles. Near the southern shore are the ruins of an old fortification, called Fort William Henry. Vestiges of the walls and out- works are still to be seen. Previous to its construc- tion, the site of the fort was occupied by the English army under the command of Sir William Johnson, who was making preparations for an attack upon Crown Point. Before any movement, however, was made by him, the French army, under the command of Baron Dieskau, marched from Ticonderoga for Fort Edward, but after- wards changing his purpose, he was proceeding to the head of the lake, when he unexpectedly fell in with a party of the English, who had been detached by Sir William for the relief of Fort Edward. A severe battle ensued, in which the English were defeated, and com- pelled hastily to retire from the field. They were pursu- ed into their intrenchments by the French army, who commenced a furious asssault upon the English camp, * A very good prospect is also obtained from the top of the Lake George House ; but one far better from Pros- pect Hill, previously mentioned. 154 LAKE GEORGE. but were repulsed with great slaughter. The discomfited Baron, on his retreat from this unsuccessful attack, was a third time engaged by a party of Enghsh, who had been despatched by the garrison at Fort Edward, to succor Sir William, and totally defeated. These tliree several engagements took place on the same day, the 6th September, 1755, in the vicinity of Bloody Pond, into which the bodies of the slain were afterwards thrown. In 1757 Fort William Henry contained a garrison of 3000 men, under the command of Col. Munroe. The Marquis de Montcalm, after three attempts to besiege the fort, reinforced his army to about 10,000 men, and summoned Col. Munroe to surrender. This summons being refused, Montcalm, after a furious assault, obliged the English to capitulate. The terms of the capitulation, though hon- orable to the English, were shamefully violated by the Indians attached to the French army, who massacred the whole garrison, except a small remnant who made their escape to Fort Edward. The fort was razed to the ground by Montcalm, and was never afterwards rebuilt. This spot was the scene of embarkation of Gen. Aber- crombie, who, in 1758, descended the lake with an army of 15,000 men, for an attack on Ticonderoga. About 80 rods farther south, on a commanding emi- nence, are situated the vestiges of old Fort George. This fort, though not distinguished by any event of im- portance, yet, in connection with the history of Lake George, imparts an interest which a stranger will readily embrace in a visit to its mouldering ruins. A part of the walls, which were originally built of stone, are still visi- ble, from 30 to 40 feet in height. It was the depot for LAKE GEORGE. 155 the stores of Gen. Burgoyne, for some time during the revolutionary war. A steamboat usually performs a daily trip on Lake George, so as to intersect the boats running to Lake Champlain ; leaving Caldwell in the morning, and return- ing at evening. The length of the lake, on which the boat runs, is 36 miles. From the steamboat landing to Ticonderoga is a distance of 3 miles ; for which a con- veyance is readily obtained. Refreshments are provided at a tavern half a mile from the landing, after which par- ties usually proceed to the fort, and return to the tavern the same evening, from whence they may take the boat on its return the next day to Caldwell. In proceeding down the lake from Caldwell, Twelve Mile Island is reached in going that distance. It is of a circular form, containing about 20 acres, situated in the centre of the lake, and is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the water. From thence one mile, on the northwest side of the lake, is Tongue Mountain, with West Bay on its west side, a mile and a half wide, and extending in a northerly direction 6 miles. What are called the Narrows com- mence here, and continue for 6 or 7 miles, being three fourths of a mile wide, and very deep. A Ime 500 feet long has been used in sounding, without reaching bottom. Black Mountain, 18 miles from the head of the lake, is situated on the east side, and has been ascertained, by admeasurement, to be 2200 feet in height. Opposite to Black Mountain, near the western shore, is Half Way Island. A short distance north of this is some of the finest mountain scenery on the continent. n2 156 LAKE GEORGE. The mountains, exhibiting an undulating appearance, are thickly studded with pines and firs, and interspersed with deep and almost impenetrable caverns. Sabbath Day Point, 24 miles from Caldwell, is a pro- jection of the main land into the lake from the west side. It is a place on which the English troops landed on the Sabbath during the French war, and is the spot on which a sanguinary battle was fought with the Indians. The Enghsh, with no chance of retreat, were all killed. From thence, 3 miles, is a small island called the Scotch Bon- net. Three miles farther, on the western shore of the lake, is a little hamlet called by the inhabitants the City of Hague, containing only two or three dwellings, and as many saw mills. The lake is here 4 miles wide, being its greatest width. From this place to Rogers' Slide, is 3 miles. This is celebrated as the spot where Col. Rogers escaped from the Indians during the French Avar. The descent is an angle of about 25 degrees, over a tolerably smooth rock, 200 feet in height. The Colonel, who had been a great foe to the Indians, was nearly surrounded by them on the top of the moun- tain, and found no other means of escape than to slide down this precipice. It being winter, and having snow shoes on his feet, he landed safely on the ice. The In- dians afterwards saw him ; but supposing that no human being could have made the descent, and that he must of course be supernatural, they concluded it not only useless but dangerous to follow him. Anthony's Nose, so called from its singular shape, is a high rock; nearly opposite to Rogers' Slide. The shores LAKE GEORGE. 157 here are bold and contracted, and exhibit massive rocks, which are from 50 to 100 feet in height. From thence to Prisoner's Island, is 2 miles, a spot where prisoners were confined during the French war ; and directly west of this is Lord Howe's Point, so called from being the place where Lord Howe landed immediately previous to the battle in which he was killed at Ticonderoga. He was a brother of Lord Howe, who commanded the Brit- ish forces at Philadelphia, during the revolutionary war. The water here, from a deep green, assumes a light color, owing to a clayey bottom. From thence to the outlet of the lake, which terminates the steamboat passage, is one mile. Three miles farther, over a circuitous and uneven road, in an easterly direction, is the fort and ruins of Ticonderoga. The point projects between the lake on one side, which here suddenly expands to the west, and the creek on the other side, which unites the waters of lakes George and Champlain. On the opposite side of the latter lake, in a south-east direction, stands Mount Independence. Mount Defiance, 720 feet in height, is situated across the creek directly west of the Fort. This height was occupied by the artillery of Gen. Burgoyne in 1777, when the Americans were compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. The fortress of Ticonderoga was first con- structed by the Frencl. in 1756. The works, which appear to have been very strong, arc elevated about 200 feet above the level of Lake Champlain, and many of the walls are still standing. The magazine is nearly entire. It is 35 feet long, 15 feet wide, and 8 feet high, constructed un- der ground, of stone, and arched. A subterraneous pas- sage leads from the southwest corner of the works to the 158 TICONDEROGA. lake, 20 or 30 rods in length. Through this passage CoL Ethan Allen passed when he took possession of the fort " in the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." The remains of another fortification, built during the revolutionary war, are still to be seen about 60 rods farther south on the point adjoining the lake. The walls next to the lake are nearly 60 feet high. In 1758 Ticonderoga was attacked by General Aber- crombie, who was repulsed with the loss of 2000 men. On the approach of Gen. Amherst, in 1759, it was quietly abandoned by the French, as was also Crown Point. It continued in possession of the British until the year 1775, when it was taken by Col. Allen. On evacuating the fort in 1777, Gen. St. Clair ordered a detachment to accompany the American stores and baggage to White- hall, where they were pursued by Gen. Burgoyne, and from thence to Fort Ann. At the latter place a smart skirmish ensued between the two parties, in which the British sustained a considerable loss. The main army re- tired from Ticonderoga to Hubbardton, Vt. where a party, consisting of about 1000 under Col. Warner, were over- taken by the British advanced guard, and after a severe action abandoned the field to superior numbers. From thence they joined Gen. Schuyler at Fort Edward on the 12th July, 1777. From Ticonderoga, travellers designing a tour to Mon- treal and Quebec, may take passage in a Champlain steam boat, for St. Johns. The boat arrives towards evening, and the passage from thence to Plattsburgh, with the exception of about 15 miles to Crown Point, is generally in the night. At present the most usual arrangements of EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 159 the tourist are, after visiting Lake George and Ticonde- roga, to return to the Springs, and from thence proceed by rail road to Syracuse or Auburn, and take a passage by canal or stage for Niagara. EXCURSION TO THE WEST. Travellers who design to visit Niagara and return with- out proccedmg down Lake Ontario to Montreal, will find an excursion the most pleasant and diversified by taking the rail roads as far as they are perfected, and stages in going and canal boats in returning, on the intermediate parts of the route. The stage route afibrds a better pros- pect of the populous parts of the country ; but is general- ly so far from the canal, that no opportunity is given of witnessing many of the thriving villages on its banks. It is therefore advisable so to arrange a tour that the most interesting parts of both routes may be seen in going and returning. To effect this, a rail road passage can be taken at Saratoga Springs for Auburn, 179 miles ; from whence the stage route through Geneva, Canandaigua and Batavia to Buffalo, 128 miles from Auburn, will be continuous, unless Rochester shall be visited in the excur- sion — in which case, the Tonawanda rail road, from that place to Batavia, 32 miles distant, can be taken, and the stage route pursued to Buffalo, 40 miles farther. In re- turning the tourist can take the rail road from Buffalo via Niagara Falls to Lockport, 42 miles ; a canal packet fi-om thence, via Rochester and Palmyra, to Syracuse, 162 miles, and a rail road from thence to Saratoga Springs or Albany. 160 EXCURSION TO THE WEST. If the tourist designs to return by the way of Montreal, the following route to the Falls is recommended as the most interesting : Rail road from Saratoga Springs to Auburn, (as before,) 179 miles; stage, via Seneca Falls, Waterloo, Geneva and Canandaigua, to Rochester, 66 miles ; rail road to Batavia, 32 miles ; stage to Buffalo, 40 miles ; rail road to the Falls, 22 miles ; rail road to Lewiston, 7 miles ; from whence (and at Queenston, on the opposite side of the Niagara river) the Lake Ontario steamboats leave for Montreal. Or, if he desires to visit the Falls and Buffalo merely, without regard to the intermediate cities and villages, the following is the most expeditious as well as the easiest and cheapest route : Rail road from Saratoga Springs to Syracuse, 1 53 miles ; canal packet to Oswego, 38 miles ; steamboat to Lewis- ton, 151 miles; rail road to the Falls, 7 mile&;2do. to Buffalo, 22 miles. The last mentioned route, from Saratoga Springs or from Albany to the Falls, can be accomplished in two days. The other routes will require about three. That tourists, however, may be the better enabled to gratify their taste as to the mode of travelling, we subjoin a sketch of each. SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BUFFALO. 161 FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BUFFALO, 307 miles — [Rail road and stage route.] Miles. By rail road. Ballston Spa, 7 Schenectady, 15 Amsterdam, 16 Fonda, 10 Palatine Bridge,.. 11 Fort Plain, 3 St. Johnsville,. . . . 7 Little Falls, 10 Herkimer, 7 Utica, 14 100 Whitesboro', Oriskany, Rome, Syracuse, Auburn, By stage. Cayuga, 8 187 22 38 48 59 62 69 79 86 4 104 3 107 8 115 38 153 26 179 Seneca Falls, Waterloo, , Geneva, Canandaigua, East Bloomfield,.. West Bloomfield,. Lima, East Avon, Avon Post Office,. Caledonia, Leroy, Batavia, . • Pembroke,...,.... Clarence, Williamsville, Buffalo, Miles. 4 191 4 195 7 202 16 218 9 227 5 232 4 236 5 241 2 243 8 251 6 257 10 267 14 281 8 289 8 297 10 307 A passage by rail road between Saratoga Springs and Auburn can be effected twice a day ; though the morn- ing train is decidedly preferable, as it is mostly by day- light. The time in passing over the respective roads is from 12 to 14 hours— fare f 7,50. The Saratoga and Schenectady rail road was noticed at p. 121. The Utica and Schenectady Rail Road commences in State street in Schenectady, and crossing the Mohawk river on a permanent bridge 800 feet long, continues in a northerly direction in conjunction with the Saratoga road for about a mile, when it curves to the west and pursues 163 UTICA AND SCHENECTADY RAIL ROAD. the direction of the Mohawk valley, which it reaches in about 8 miles. From thence it continues along the northern bank, and generally in view of the river, till within 3 or 4 miles of Utica, when it re-crosses the river, and the southern bank is pursued to Utica. The country is remarkably level, and generally favorable for a rail road — the acclivities, with a solitary exception, not ex- ceeding 15 or 16 feet per mile. At Tripe Hill, about 20 miles from Schenectady, there is an excavation of some magnitude through solid rock ; after passing which, the valley spreads out and affords a route of several miles through some of the finest meadows in the state. At the Nose, 12 miles farther, the passage becomes con- tracted by bold and lofty mountains, affording, for some distance, a scanty width for the rail road, turnpike, river and canal, the latter of which is on the southern side of the Mohawk. After passing Palatine, Canajoharie and Fort Plain, embraced within a distance of 12 or 14 miles, Ij the valley again widens, affording a charming view of hill I and dale, until reaching the mountain scenery near Little - Falls. This is by far the most interesting part of the route. Within two miles of the village, the passage of i the river is confined within very narrow limits between f two lofty and precipitous mountains. To find room for ' the canal, it became necessary to excavate and remove immense masses of rock, and even to form an aqueduct for a portion of it in the river. Similar labor was requi- site on the opposite side, in finding a passage for the rail road. For a considerable distance, the carriages run very near a rocky barrier of great height, not dissimilar in ap- pearance to the Palisadoes between the Highlands and AMSTERDAM. 163 New- York. Passinjr this, the carriages soon cross what is called "the Gulf," succeeding which, are alternate rocky excavations and embankments of great magnitude, until the road passes beyond the precincts of the village. Seven miles farther, after crossing the West Canada creek, the road enters upon what are called the German Flats, which for richness and beauty are not surpassed by any lands on the continent. Beyond these, the country is less interesting until reaching within 3 or 4 miles of Utica ; when the finely cultivated farms indicate their contiguity to a populous and flourishing town. The approach to Utica is peculiarly fine, — a full view of the city being had for some distance previous to entering it, together with the depot of the company, and its build- ings, v/hich are spacious and handsome. The whole route, indeed, possesses much interest, exhibiting a scenery unusually rich and diversified. The cost of the road, including fixtures, engines, &c. was ^1,900,000. Schenectady. (See p. 120. ) Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady, is the first village of any magnitude that is reached on the route. It is located on the north side of the Mohawk river, over which there is a substantial bridge. The village contains about 150 houses, and has become a place of considerable importance from its proximity to the river and the Erie canal, but more especially so from the creek which passes through the village, and which, within half a mile, falls over a number of beautiful cascades, affording admirable facilities for manufacturmg operations. 164 RAIL ROAD AND STAGE ROUTE. About one mile from Amsterdam, on the south side of the rail road, is a stone building, erected by Col, Guy Johnson, son-in-law of Sir V'illiam Johnson, which was occupied by the former previous to the revolution ; and a mile farther, on the opposite side of the road, is a stone building which Vv^as occupied by Sir John, the son of Sir William. Three miles farther, the road passes around the base of Tripe Hill, affording a fine prospect of the country on the opposite side of the river, embracing the broad and beautiful valley of the Mohawk, the outlet of the Scho- harie creek, the dam and bridge across the same, and the Erie canal ; thence to Caughnawaga, an old and un- important village, is four and a half miles, and to the village of Fonda, the capital of Montgomery county, half a mile farther. It contains a handsome court house, a first rate public house and several other buildings.* * Johnstown, celebrated as the former residence of Sir William Johnson, is four miles north of this place, and is the capital of Fulton county. The court house and jail were built by Sir William. The Episcopal church, also built by him, and beneath which his remains were interred, was accidentally destroyed by fire in the autumn of 1836. The house, or what is called the " Hall," formerly occupied by him, is about a mile from the village. Attached to it is a building which was used by him as a fort ; into which he had occasion, at times, to retreat from the assaults of the Indians, The marks of tomahawks are still visible on the stair-case in the main building. The battle of Johnstown, October, 1781, in which the British and Indians were defeated, was fought on the "Hall" farm. The American troops, consisting of be- tween 4 and 500, were commanded by Col. Willet, FORT PLAI!^. 165 The Nose, a rocky point originally jutting into the riv- er, and which was deformed to make room for the rail road, is six miles farther ; from whence to Palatine Bridge is 5 miles. A bridge here crosses the Mohawk river to the village of Canajoharie, from whence a rail road to Catskill, noticed at page 111, has been commenced. FoKT Plain, a flourishing little village, is 3 miles west of Palatine Bridge, on the opposite side of the river. A fort, from which the place derives its name, was con- structed here dui ing the revolutionary war ; though but little of its remains arc now to be seen. The place was originally settled by Germans, who suffered severely from the early Indian wars of this country. During the revo- lution, those who had taken refuge in the fort, wore sur- prised by Capt. Butler, on his return from burning Cherry Valley, and became a prey to similar atrocities. The East Canada Creek is passed by a substantial bridge, in going 4 miles farther ; * from which to Little Falls is 6 miles. This place takes its name from a cataract in the vicinity, which, in size, is much in- who died a few years since at New- York. After the defeat, the enemy were pursued by him to the Canada creek, where several v/cre killed, including Maj Butler. Out of ()07 of the hostile force sent on this expedition, but 230 returned to Canada. * About 3 miles west of the East Canada creek, on the south side of the Mohawk river and canal, a brick house is seen, standing on elevated ground, which was the for- mer residence of Gen. Herkimer. He received a vv^ound in a skirmish in 1777, (See p. 175) of which he died at his residence. His remains repose in an adjoining field. 166 RAIL ROAD AND STAGE ROUTE. ferior to the celebrated Cohoes, (noticed at p. 131,) and has, therefore, been denominated the Little Falls of the Mohawk. A continuation of the chain of the Catsbergs crosses the river at this place, and forms a rough bed for the waters of the cataract, which pour over the rocky fragments in the wildest confusion. Approaching from the east, a loftly ridge of mountains, frowning in grand- eur on either side, conceals the course of the river and the falls, whose vicinity is announced only by the distant din and foam of its waters. For a considerable distance, a narrow pass only is allowed for the road, river, and ca- nal, with immense natural battlements of rock on either side, affording a subhme and interesting spectacle. About half a mile from the village the rail road curves to the left, presenting a view of the falls tumbling with irre- sistible violence over a gradual rocky descent of about eighty rods. At the termination of the ascent is situated the village, containing about 200 houses and 1800 inhab- itants. A cluster of buildings, rising betvv-een the rushing waters of the Mohawk on the one hand, and the rugged cliffs and eminences on the other ; the smooth current of the stream above gently gliding to the tumultuous scene below and beyond the distant vale of the Mohawk, diver- sified with fields, orchards, meadows, and farm houses, all contribute to set off the romantic appearance for which this place is so justly celebrated. This village derives most of its importance from the facilities for trade and commerce afforded by means of the Mohawk river and the Erie canal. Boats were formerly transported around the falls through a canal on the north side of the river. This old canal is now connected with the Erie canal on LITTLE FALLS. 167 the south side of the river by means of an aqueduct 184 feet long. The descent of the Erie canal here, in the distance of one mile, is 40 feet, which is passed by five locks. The Aqueduct across the river is one of the finest spe- cimens of masonry on the whole hne of the canal, though less stupendous than the locks at Lockport, and, in ex- tent, falling considerably short of the aqueduct at Roches- ter. The river is passed on three beautiful arches of from 40 to 50 feet in height, with flagging on either side of the canal, and a strong iron railing. The Erie canal, which is on the south side of the river, winds its way for some distance along the side of a bold and lofty mountain, the channel resting on a wall nearly 30 feet high, constructed from the bed of the river at great expense. The view afforded of mountain scenery on either side, with a bare passage for the dashing waters of the Mohavvk between, is highly interesting and sublime. Whichever way the eye is turned, it rests on huge masses of granite and limestone, piled in heaps. These rocks in some places rise to a great height, almost perpendicular, presenting a bleak dark surface, unbleached by the thou- sand storms which have beat upon them ; others present a rugged and uneven face, crowned and overhung by dark evergreens, dipping their verdure into the foaming torrent below ; the fissures between others of these huge piles produce hickory, maple and other trees, which hang from them, and with their sombre shadow deepen the gloomy darkness of the rocks from which they spring ; whilst the scanty soil upon others gives life and penurious nourish. ttient to dwarf oaks and vegetation peculiar to similar in- o2 168 RAIL ROAD AND STAGE ROUTE. hospitable regions. In this scene, where the rude but magnificent works of nature are so profusely displayed, the imagination is overpowered, in their sublimity, and the proudest works of man, and man himself, lose their importance. The road, after leaving Little Falls, follows the bank of the river, in full view of the rich alluvial vale called the Herkimer and German Flats. Tiiis region, now glowing in all the beauty of successful cultivation, was once the theatre of the most sanguinary warfare. During the French and revolutionary wars, it was the scene of many barbarous incursions of the whites as well as savages. It was invaded by the French after the capture of Fort Os- wego in 1 756, and in 1757 the settlements were desolated by fire and sword. In the centre of these flats is situa- ted the village of Herkimer, 7 miles from Little Falls. West Canada creek, on which are the celebrated Trenton Falls, noticed in subsequent pages, enters the Mohawk river about half a mile east of the village, and is passed near its mouth by a well constructed bridge. The village is principally built on two parallel streets. It contains a handsome court house and jail, about 130 dwelling houses, and 1000 in- habitants. Between Herkimer and Utica, on the south side of the river, is the village of Frankfort, about 5 miles from the former and 9 from the latter place. The country after leaving Herkimer is quite level, and remarks ably fertile, though not in a high state of cultivation. UTICA. 169 UTICA. This flourishing place is on the south bank of the Mo- hawk river, and occupies the site of old Fort Schuyler, where a garrison was kept previous to the revolution. A few Germans were settled here before that period ; but a part were captured by the Indians and the remnant sought a place of more security. The first permanent settler established himself about 4 miles west of Fort Schuyler in 1784. Five years afterwards a few families estp.bhshed themselves on the site of the present town. In 1798, a village charter was granted, and in 1832, the place was incorporated into a city, and contains at the present time about 10,000 inhabitants. It is regularly laid out, the streets of good width, and mostly paved. Genesee street, in particular, is peculiarly pleas- ant, and for the most part adorned with elegant stores and dwellings. There are numerous literary, benevolent and religious institutions in this place ; among which are 16 churches, a lyceum, an academy, a high school, Female Institute, museum, and an institution called the Young Men's As- sociation, in which there is a library and reading room, which are gratuilously opened for the use of strangers. There are also 3 banks, an insurance company, and from j 6 to 8 newspaper establishments. The principal Hotels, which are in Genesee street, are Bagg's, near the termination of the rail road ; the Na- tional Hotel, and the Canal Coffee House, near the canal ; and the City Hotel and Franklin House, farther south. 170 TRENTON FALLS. The lands adjoining Utica are richly cultivated, pre- senting a succession of beautiful farms and country seats. There are also various objects of attraction in the viciriity, a visit to which may be ranked among the pleasures of art excursion to the west. Of these are Trenton Falls, at the north ; the York Mills, and Clinton Village contain. . ing Hamilton College, all within a few miles in a westerly direction. Trenton Falls are 15 miles from the city, and a visit thither generally occupies a day. They are on the West Canada creek, about 22 miles from its confluence with the Mohawk river at Herkimer. The creek, in its way from the summit of the highlands of Black river to its lower valley, crosses a ridge of lime- stone 4 or 5 miles in breadth, stretching through the coun- try from the Mohawk to the St. Lawrence. Its course over this ridge by its tortous bed is 6 or 7 miles, 2 1-2 of which are above the falls. The waters, soon after reach- ing the limestone, move with accelerated strides over the naked rocks to the head of the upper fall, where they are precipitated 18 or 20 feet down an abrupt ledge into a spacious basin. The whole descent to the head of this fall in the last two miles is computed at 60 feet. Here a deep and winding ravine begins, which extends do\ AND STAGE ROUTE. jpregnated with sulphur and alum, are found beneficial in various diseases. Caledonia, 8 nailes from Avon Post Office, is more particularly celebrated as the location of a large Spring, than for any thing else. The stage usually stops at this village long enough to enable passengers to visit this nat- ural curiosity, which is situate a few rods north of the principal street. Within a small area, sufficient watei rises to propel a mill, (of which there are several on the stream below,) at all seasons of the year. The water is pure, and appears to rise from a rocky bottom. A stage runs daily from this place to Rochester, which is 20 miles distant — a part of the route being along the bank of the OTTAWA CANAL. the hostile frontier. The entire length of the canal from Kingston to Bytown, where it enters the Ottawa river, is 160 miles. The Rideau Lake and River are used alter- nately as found practicable, so that not to exceed one fourth of the entire distance, is an actual excavation. From the junction of the canal with the Ottawa river at Bytown to Montreal, the distance is 120 miles. The Ot- tawa or Grand river is the outlet of a vast extent of coun- try (watered by numerous lakes and smaller streams,) having its source far towards Hudson's Bay, and whose embauchere is divided into two branches by the Island of Montreal, where it enters the St. Lawrence. The dis- charge of the Rideau into the Ottawa, is marked by an extensive cove on the right bank of the latter river, in a gulley existing between the falls of the Chaudiere and Rideau. This point appears to have been reserved by na- ture for the purpose to which it is adapted ; and, indeed, bears every characteristic, both as to its banks and valley, of having been formerly the bed of the Rideau. The ele- vation of the mouth of the canal above the level of the sea is estimated at 110 feet, while it is considered to be 283 feet below the summit level on " Rideau Lake," and 129 below the level of Lake Ontario, at Kingston. Directly above the mouth of the canal, may be seen the beautiful and magnificent cataract of the Chaudiere. It consists of a series of falls, more or less extensive, and amounting in all to 31 1-2 feet perpendicular. But that which stands most prominent to view, and gives an ap- pearance of grandeur to the whole, is at the broadest channel of the river, and known by the name of the Grande Chaudiere, or Big Kettle, from the peculiar for- RIDEAU AND OTTAWA CANAL. 241 mation of the cauldron into which the waters faU. This formation consists of a hard laminated lime-stone, in hori- zontal strata, and worn into its present horse-shoe shape by the constant abrasion of the rolling water over its sur- face. The depth of the cauldron is said to be over three hundred feet — at least, a sounding line of that length could not be made to touch bottom. Next in interest to these may be mentioned the cata- ract of the Rideau, situated at the mouth of the river, where its dark green waters fall from an eminence of 37 feet, in a single unbroken sheet. The river finds its source in the Rideau Lake, 85 miles from the Ottawa, but is not occupied as the bed of the canal till about 6 miles above its entrance, it having been found more ex- pedient to make use of the natural valley and bay already alluded to. At this point it became necessary, in consequence of tlie rugged and precipitate nature of the banks of the Ot- tawa, to overcome the difference of level between the river and canal by the construction of a series of locks, eight in number, and each rising ten feet, giving an ag- gregate of eighty feet perpendicular rise ; constructed in a liberal workmanlike manner, and presenting an elegant and commanding appearance. The estimated cost was £45,700. In the vicinity of the locks are two spacious basins for the reception of boats ; over one of which there is a stone arch, connecting Upper and Lower Bytown. About seventy miles of the route passes through either extensive lakes with bold and rocky shores, or soft swampy meadows, where good foundations were unat- tainable, save at great additional expense. Hence it be- 242 RIDEAU AND_'OTTAWA CANAL. came necessary to do away with the ordinary towing path, and enlarge the canal to a surface of 43 feet, with a depth of 5 feet throughout, to admit the passage of steamboats from one extremity to the other. The towns of Upper and Lower By, so named after the commandant of engineers, Lieut. Col. John By, under whose superintendence the works were constructed, have already assumed a character and importance which, when their brief existence is taken into consideration, is truly marvellous. The towns already contain, in addi- tion to their numerous dwehing-houses, two large store- houses for the use of the Ordnance and Commissariat Departments ; three substantial buildings for the accom- modation of the troops, erected on the highest eminence, so as to command both the river and canal ; and at a short distance an excellent military hospital. In the vicinity may also be seen, in the '• Union Bridge," the execution of one of the most daring plans ever conceived. It connects Upper with Lower Cana- da, and is thrown directly over the falls of the Chaudiere, taking advantage of the numerous rocky islands embrac- ed by the diverging branches of the river at this place ; and forming altogether a most magnificent and imposing specimen of civil architecture. The bridge is composed of six distinct arches, two of stone and four of wood, stretching from island to island with various spans, as cir- cumstances required ; and forming an aggregate length of bridge- way of 781 feet. Taking leave of Bytown and its vicinity, and proceeding along the line until it strikes the river, little of interest occurs saving a singular break in an interesting ridge of land, extending for several miles RIDEAU AND OTTAWA CANAL. 243 at an average deptli of about thirty-five feet. It is known under the name of the " Notch in the Mountain," and affords an opportune passage for the canal, which would otherwise, in order to pass it, have had to encoun- ter a heavy excavation. At the point where the canal enters the channel of the river, are found strong rapids, confined on one side by a high clay bank, and on the other by a rocky shore. To overcome the fall existing here, which is about 30 feet, it was necessary to drown the rapids by the erection of a large dam, and surmount the elevation by three locks. This dam backs the water as far as the " Black Rapids" — to which point, and indeed thence all the way to its source in the " Rideau Lake," the channel of the river continues to be used. The Rideau, like other rivers in Canada, is a combination of rapids and long sheets of still water, alternately intervening, and to overcome which it is ever necessary to have recourse to locks and dams. There are fourteen rapids between Bytown and the Rideau Lake, which are destroyed by as many dams, and 20 locks of various lifts, amounting in all to 283 feet. The " Rideau Lake," which is the proper summit of the canal, is a beautiful expanse of clear green water, 30 miles long and 12 broad, surrounded on all sides by bold, rorky and precipitous banks. The only interruptions which the navigation encounters across this lake are at " Oliver's Ferry" and the " Rideau Narrows,' ' where considerable extra expense was incurred to overcome the i currents there created by the contraction of the waters. Continuing the use of the Rideau waters for the space of 45 miles on the summit level of the route, its course 244 RIDEAU AND OTTAWA CANAL. finally bends towards the " Cataraqui River," which has an outlet in Lake Ontario near Kingston. An excavation of ] feet for the distance of a mile and a half across the isthmus, existing between the " Rideau" and " Mud" lakes, was necessary to effect this object. The latter lake is 3 1-2 feet below the level of the Rideau, and has a length of 12 miles, with an average breadth of 10, stud- ded all over with innumerable small islands, which give it quite a picturesque appearance. It is intended eventually to raise the waters to the level of the summit lake. Leaving this lake, the canal enters the " Indian," and thence, instead of making the long detour of the river, encounters a shallow cut, by which, in a more direct line, the distance is considerably shortened. Thence following the course of the " Cataraqui" to within 55 miles of King, ston, a dam is met with, backing the waters as far as the last mentioned lake. The rapids connecting this with " Davis' Lake," on the right side of the river, are svur- mounted by dams and locks, so that the navigation, which was before hazardous, is now perfectly safe. Again, following the course of the " Cataraqui river" for the further distance of eight miles, and successively passing " Davis" and " Opinicon" lakes, together with their intervening rapids, surmounted as usual by a dam and lock, the tourist arrives at a point called "Jones' Falls," 35 miles from Kingston. These falls descend 61 feet within the mile, and connect " Opinicon Lake" with " Cranberry Marsh," where the river holds its course through a narrow rocky ravine. This fall is overcome by a dam and six locks. Thence, passing three more smaller rapids, with their customary works, the line at RIDEAU AND OTTAWA CANAL. 245 length reaches " Kingston Mills," where the Cataraqui empties itself into the Kingston Bay, a part of Lake On- tario, and five miles distant from Kingston. This is the upper extremity of the canal on the Canada side, and is terminated at its junction with Lake Ontario by the erec- tion of four locks of nine feet each. The entire cost of this canal, which with the Welland canal (heretofore noticed) forms a chain of internal com- munication between Halifax and Ihe Gulf of Mexico, was rising of £600,000. The direct route from Kingston to Montreal, down the St. Lawrence, has been so often described as scarcely to require a passing notice beyond a mere sketch of places and distances; still the route is not barren of interest to one who travels it for the first time. The alter- nating between steamers and stage coaches, render- ed necessary by the frequent rapids in the St. Law- rence, relieves the tedium occasioned by the continuation of either. The roads, in such parts of the route as are over land, are generally good ; most of the country lying along the river being improved farms, many of which are j( in a high state of cultivation. The scenery in several I places is exceedingly beautiful, commanding for the most * part a view of the St. Lawrence with its rapids, which , are not only remarkable for their number but also for their extent. Some of them are several miles long, and tlie current at the rate of 30 knots an hour ; the water foaming and tmnbling over its rocky bed, and to use a simile of Mrs. Jameson, very hke a herd of young tigers at play. 246 CALEDONIA SPRINGS. The only places of note between Kingston and Montreal are Gananoque, Brockville, Prescott, Williamsburg, Corn- wall, Lancaster, Coteau du Lac and Lachine ; all small provincial towns, of which Brockville and Prescott* are the most important, with a mixed population, the trades- men and artisans being mostly English, Irish or Scotch, and the poorer classes native hahitans or Canadians. The traveller, whether in pursuit of pleasure or health, while on his way from Kingston to Montreal or vice versa, whether he take the route by the Rideau and Ottawa canal, or the more direct one by the St. Lawrence, will do well to visit the Caledonia Springs, which are located near the Grand river, in the Ottawa district, 70 miles westerly of Mon- treal, and 125, in a northeasterly direction, from Kingston. They may be approached from Cornwall, on the St. Law- * It was at Prescott, on the 12th Nov. 1838, (the year following the rebellion of the French population in the lower province,) that a band of brigands, chiefly Ameri- cans, about 180 in number, commanded by a refugee Pole named Van Shultz, crossed the St. Lawrence and effect- ed a landing, under cover of the night, at the Windmill, a stone edifice just below the town, of which they took possession. They were here kept in check by the provin- cial militia, until despatches could be sent to Brockville for troops and heavy artillery. On the morning of the 13th, a simultaneous attack, by land and water, was made upon the brigands m the wind mill, which resulted in the capture of all who survived the conflict. Van Shultz and his comrades were taken to Kingston, where himself and 5 of his officers were tried and executed, several were transported for life, and the remainder, through the clem- ency of the government, were pardoned and sent back to the United States. CALEDONIA SPRINGS. 247 lence, or by way of Grand river, on the Rideau and Ot- tawa canal route. The springs were only known to a few hunters and trappers until the year 1835, when the first attempt was made to clear the forest in which they were situated, and erect houses for the accommodation of vis- itants. By the enterprise of Mr. William Barker, the proprietor, a hotel is now erected of sufficient extent for the comfortable accommodation of parties of pleasure as well as invalids. The principal Springs are the White Sulphur, the Saline, and the Gas Spring. The waters of each have undergone a chemical analysis by Dr. Chilton, a celebra- ted chemist of the city of New- York; since which the celebrity of these fountains as a watering place is rapidly extending. Invahds are flocking thither from all parts of the Canadas, from Great Britain and from the U. States. The waters are bottled* and forwarded to agents for sale in Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, New-York and elsewhere. The White Sulphur Spring possesses qualities very similar to the White Sulphur Springs of Virginia. The iodine found in one of these springs promises to be of great benefit in all diseases where that powerful remedial agent is efficacious. These waters are chiefly beneficial, and their medical effects most obviously displayed, in * The process of bottling these waters is different from that observed by the writer at other places. Ordinarilv the bottles are thrust below the surface, where thev fill and are drawn out and corked at the leisure of the person em- ployed m the business ; but here the whole process is per- formed underneath the surface, and in a manner which preserves the gases and all the medicinal virtues of the waters ununpaired. ^2148 BUFFALO TO MONTREAL. cases of dyspepsia, rheumatism, and in cutaneous diseases ; but the traveller is shown certificates* of extraordinary cures performed by them in diseases of the kidney and liver, in jaundice, dropsy, &c. It is proper to remark, however, that pulmonary diseases are not benefitted by these waters. FROM BUFFALO TO MONTREAL, Via Lake Ontario, on the American side, 436 miles — Fare, ^17,50. INTERMEDIATE DISTANCES. Miles. Miles. By rail road. Cross St. La-wTence From Buffalo to Ni- toPrescott,U.C. 1 296 agara Falls,. ... 22 Dickinson's Land'g 38 334 Lewiston, 7 29 By stage. By steamboat. Cornwall, 12 346 Fort Niagara, .... 7 36 By steamboat. Genesee river,.... 74 110 Coteau du Lac, ... 41 387 Great Sodiis Bay,. 35 145 By stage. Oswego, 28 173 Cascades, 16 403 Sacket's Harbor,.. 40 213 By steamboat. Cape Vincent,.... 20 233 Morristown, 50 282 Lachine, 24 427 By stage. Ogdensburgh, 12 295 Montreal, 9 436 The route from Buffalo to Oswego has already been de- scribed. (Seep. 201 to 221. ) * Dr. Robertson, a scientific man and an eminent phy- sician of Montreal, whose opinions being founded upon experimental knowledge are entitled to very great respect, has given his most unqualified assent to the efficacy and beneficial effects of these waters in dyspepsia, rheuma- tism, chlorosis, affections of the liver, the urinary organs, and some cutaneous diseases ; as well as their renovating powers in invigorating the system enfeebled by the long protracted and injudicious use of mercury. 1 SACKET'S harbor — OGDENSBURGH. 249 Sacket's Harbor, 40 miles from Oswego. This was an important military and naval station during the last war. The Barracks are situate about 400 yards north- easterly of the village, on the shore. They are a solid range of stone buildings, and add much to the appearance of the place. Two forts erected during the war are now in ruins. On Navy Point, which forms the harbor, there is a large ship of war on the stocks ; but which, probably^ will never be finished. Cape Vincent, 20 miles. Kingston, in Upper Canada, is on the opposite side of the lake, 11 miles distant, with Grand Island intervening. MoRRisTOWN, 50 miles. The river here is but a mile and a quarter wide, on the opposite side of which is the village of Brockville. Ogdensburgh, which terminates the passage of the steamboat, is 12 miles farther, and is situated on the east side of the Oswegatchie river, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. This is a thriving village, containing about 300 houses, and a population of about 3000 inhabi- tants. A mihtary fortification, consisting of two stone buildings and a number of wooden barracks, was formerly erected here by the British government, but was ceded to the United States in 1796. Stages leave Ogdensburgh daily for Plattsburgh j whence a steamboat can be taken on Lake Champlain for St. John's or Whitehall. Boats also leave Ogdensburgh frequently and descend' the river as far as La Chine, 9 miles above Montreal, in 3, days. They are usually furnished with every necessary 250 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. implement for their good management, and with skilful pilots. The latter are more particularly requisite, as the current of the St. Lawrence is generally very rapid, and obstructed by numerous shoals and islands, which, by an inexperienced navigator, could not without difficulty be avoided. The principal rapids are three in number — the Longue Sault, the Rapids of the Cedars* and the Cas- cades of St. Louis. The first of these are 9 miles in length, and are usually passed in 20 minutes, which is at the rate of 27 miles an horn". The Rapids of the Cedars terminate about 3 miles from the Cascades, which, after a broken course of about 2 miles, pour their foaming waters into Lake St. Louis. Lake St. Francis, on the St. Lawrence, is 25 miles long, and its greatest breadth 15. The bor- ders of the lake are so low that they can scarcely be dia- tinguished in passing along its centre. At the northwn extremity of Lake St. Francis is situated the Indian vil- lage of St. Regis, through which passes the boundary Une between the Canadas and the United States. The usual route, however, is to cross the river at Og- densburgh to Prescott ; whence the excursion to Montreal is by steamboat and stage alternately, as noticed in the table of distances at p. 248. * It was at this place that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 300 men, coming to attack Canada, were lost. The French at Montreal received the first intelligence of the invasion, by the dead bodies floating past the towm. Th» pilot who conducted the first batteaux committed an er- ror by running into the wu-ong channel, and the other bat- teau following close, all were involved in the same de- struction. J MONTREAL. 251 Lachine, 9 miles from Montreal, is connected with the city by means of a canal. The stage route affords a fine Ticw of the rapids between the two places, Nuns and He- ron Islands, and the Indian village of Caughnawaga. MOIVTREAL. Is situated on the south side of the island of the same name, the length of which is 30 miles, its mean breadth 7, and its circumference about 70. The city extends along the St. Lawrence, about 2 miles in length and about half a mile in width. The buildings are mostly constructed of stone, and arranged on regularly disposed but narrow streets. A stone wall formerly encircled the city, which^ by the sanction of the government, was some years ago totally demolished. Montreal is divided into the upper and lower towns. The latter of these contains the Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, and under a superior and thirty nuns, whose occupation is to administer relief to the sick, who are received into that hospital. The French gov- ernment formerly contributed to the support of this insti- tution; but since the revolution, which occasioned the loss of its principal funds, then vested in Paris, its re- sources have been confined to the avails of some property in land. The upper town contains the Cathedral, the English Church, the Seminary, the Convent of RecoUets, and that of the Sisters of Notre Dame. The general hospital, or Convent of Gray Sisters, is situated on the banks of the St. Lawrence, a Uttle distance from the town, from which it is separated by a small rivulet. This institution was established m 1753, and is under the man- agement of a superior and 19 nuns, w2 252 MONTREAL. Some of the public buildings are beautiful. Among these, the new Catholic Church, in grandeur, capacious- ness, style and decoration, is probably not exceeded by any edifice in America. It is 255 feet long and 34 feet wide, and is sufficiently capacious to hold 10,000 persons. Nelsoii's Monument, near the Market place, is an object also meriting an accurate survey. The Museum, belonging to the Society of Natural His. tory, contains a numerous assemblage of indigenous and exotic specimens, an examination of which will prove highly interesting to visitors of taste and science. A visit to the Nunneries can generally be effected with- out difficulty ; though a trifling purchase of some of the manufactures of the nuns is generally expected. The College is a large stone edifice, 3 stories high, and has a spacious yard on the south, adjoining to which is a beautiful garden. Connected with the college there is also a preparatory school, under excellent regulations. The Parade is a beautiful public ground, on which the troops are usually drilled. The prevailing religion here, as well as at Quebec, is the Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from grants of land made to them mider the ancient regime, and from contributions ordained by the church. Besides these, a principal source of revenue is from the fines for alienation, which amount to about 8 per cent., paid by the purchaser of real estate, every time the same is sold, and which extends to sales of all real estates in the seign- ory or island of Montreal. The city, including its suburbs, contains rising of 40,000 inhabitants. iMONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 253 The Mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes its name, rises about 2 1-2 miles distant. It is elevated 700 feet above the surface of the river, and extends from north to south 2 miles. This spot has already been se- lected for the residence of some private gentlemen, whose elegant white mansions appear beautiful in contrast with the surrounding foliage. The island of St. Helena, immediately opposite the city, is a delightful httle spot, whence is had a fine view of Montreal, with its lofty mountain in the back ground, the settlement of Longueil, St. Lambert and La Prairie de la Madelaine, on the south >ide of the river, and the waters of the St. Lawrence dash- ing over the rocks of Lachine, and sweeping their course around a variety of islands. The principal public houses in the city are, Masonic Hall, in the north part ; Goodenough's, St. Paul street ; and Mansion House, do. FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC — 180 mileS The following are the intermediate distances : Miles, Varennes, J 5 L' Assumption, 6 21 Berthier, 24 45 Rivere du Loup,.. . , 24 69 Forte St. Francis,.. 15 84 Miles. Three Rivers, 6 90 St. Anne, 30 120 Porte Neuf, 25 145 Cape Sante, 5 1 50 Quebec, 30 180 The St. Lawrence from Montreal to Quebec is navi- gated by a number of excellent steamboats, and the pas- sage between the two cities is dehghtful. A large major- ity of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are crowded to- gether near the shores of the St. Lawrence, and few in- terruptions of forest land intervene in the whole distance 254 VARENNES. between the two principal cities. The dwelhngs and cultivated grounds are so frequent and continuous that each side of the river, in fact, becomes almost an un- broken street, with groups of houses in the vicinity of the several churches, which are erected generally in sight of the passing steamboat, except on Lake St. Peter. The churches are from six to nine miles distant from each other, and upwards of twenty in number, forming, many of them, prominent objects to give embellishment and charm to the novel and otherwise very attractive scenery. All travellers sleep one night at least on board the steam- boat while journeying between the two cities ; and it is recommended that they should arrange the hour of de- parture from Quebec, (which is always at low water,) so that they may view by day light that part of the river which had been before passed in the night. A journey to Quebec and back again, which a few years since was the labor of some weeks, may now be accomphshed, by means of steamboats, in less than three days. The distance be- tween the two cities is 180 miles — fare $4. From Montreal, the boat first passes near the Fort on St. Helen's Island, and soon enters the rapids of St. Mary ; in returning up which, steamboats are often draAvn by cattle. Proceeding down the river, the villages of Longueil, Longue Pointe, and Vercheres, are successively passed before reaching Varennes, on the south side of the St. Lawrence, 15 miles from the city, which has become a place of very consid- erable resort, in consequence of the mineral springs in its vicinity. From the Varennes Springs Hotel, located in the village, is one of the most interesting views in North WILLIAM HENRY. 255 America, commanding in front the mountainous land on the north shore of the St. Lawrence ; to the west, the city and island of Montreal, the island and fortification of St. Helen's, and the winding course of the river ; and on the east a most picturesque group of islands, with their varied channels ; while the rear presents the most fertile and highly cultivated district in Lower Canada, with the magnificent mountains of Chambly and Beloil in the dis- tance. The Hotel, as a building, is capacious and fur- nislied in a style of superior neatness and elegance. The Springs are one mile from the village, and are ap- proached by a road on the bank of the St. Lawrence, forming a delightful promenade, where an extensive and commodious bath house has been erected. By an analy. SIS of the waters, they prove to be possessed of valuable medicinal qualities, and are free from substances which can be deemed deleterious. Varennes and its vicinity, therefore, present to those travelling in pursuit of health and pleasure, many attractions. Leaving Varennes, the boat passes the villages of Point aux Trembles, Contrecoeur, Repentigny, St. Sulpice, La iMorage, Berthier and Machiche, before reaching the tov»'n of William Henry, which is 40 miles from Montreal. It stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, on the right bank of the river Sorel, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. The present town was commenced in 1785. It is regularly laid out with streets, crossing each other at right angles, leaving a space in the centre about 500 feet square. The number of dwellings does not exceed 200, and its population 2000. Near the town is a seat 256 LAKE ST. PETER — THREE RIVERS. which was formerly the residence of the Governor Gene- ral of Canada, during the summer months. Opposite the town, the river Sorel is 250 yards broad, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons, for twelve or fourteen miles. On the river, which unites the waters of Lake Champlain with the St. Lawrence, are two considerable forts, the one at St. Johns and the other at Chambly. Sorel was occupied in May, 1776, by a party of the American army, under General Thomas, on their retreat from Quebec. Lake St. Peter, some miles below the town of Sorel, is formed by an expansion of the river St. Lawrence to 15 or 20 miles in width, and is 21 in length. The waters of the lake have but little current, and are from 8 to 11 feet deep. At the upper end of the lake a variety of small islands are interposed, which are the only ones that oc- cur in the St. Lawrence till you reach the island of Or- leans, a distance of 117 miles. On the north side of this lake is the town of Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, which is divided by two small islands into three branches. This town was formerly the seat of the Colonial Government, and is now considered the third in importance in the Province. It contains about 400 houses, including a Ro- man Catholic and an Episcopal church, and a Convent of Ursulines — also the barracks formerly occupied by the governor, during the French regime. The number of in- habitants is estimated at 3000. Some miles up the St. Maurice are the celebrated falls of Shawinnegame, a beautiful cataract of about 100 feet descent. i RICHELIEU RAPIDS. 257 Seven miles below Three Rivers, the Richelieu rapids commence. The river is compressed within less than half a mile in width, and the water moves with great ve- locity for three or four miles ; but being deep and the cur- rent unbroken, except at the shores, the descent is made by steamboats without danger, except in the night, when a descent is never attempted. The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally reliev- ed by the prospect of the distant mountains, the highest of which does not exceed 1000 feet, but rising in the back gromid of the cultivated vales along the borders of the river, give an additional degree of beauty and novelty to many of its landscapes. The alternate variety of the waters of the St. Lawrence, now reposing in stillness on the bosom of an expanded lake, and now rushing with the rapidity of a cataract, added to the pleasing effect of the landscape scenery, afford an agreeable repast to the tour- isi,, until he reaches the classic scenes of Quebec. Soon after leaving Cape Rouge, and the little village of St. Nicholas, near the mouth of the Chaudiere river, the tow- ers and citadel of this famous city open to view, situated on a rock of 345 feet in height, called Cape Diamond, from the gem-like quality of the chrystals which are found intermingled with the granite beneath its surface. In ap- proaching the city, you pass Sillery River and Cove, and Wolfe's Cove, where he landed his army to gain the heights of Abraham, about one and a half miles from Quebec. Point Levi appears on the right, a rocky preci- pice, covered with white dwellings, and commanding the citadel of Quebec from the opposite shore. 258 QUEBEC. QUEBEC* Is situated upon a high peninsular point of land, at the confluence of the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles, the junction of which forms a capacious and beautiful bay and harbor. From the New Exchange at the extremity of the point on the northeast, the limits of the city jurisdiction ex. tend in a direct line about northwest to a bend in the St. Charles river, near the General Hospital. On the St. Lawrence river the southwest point of the Banlieu is about equi-distant from the Exchange, the w^hole plat ap- proximating to a triangle, the longest side of which passes a short distance to the west of the Martello Towers, measuring one mile and five furlongs or 2860 yards from the St. Charles to the St. Lawrence. A straight line drawn from one river to the other, at the Barrier on the south and west, is rather more than a mile in length, and the whole wall is two miles and three quarters in circuit ; but including the Citadel, the Esplan- ade, the different large gardens, and other vacant spaces, a considerable proportion of the interior area within the fortification remains unoccupied for buildings. The city and environs are thus subdivided : That part which is within the walls is called the Upper Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On the eastern side of the Cape towards the St. Lawrence, there is only one avenue to enter it, by a circuitous steep hill, through * For a description of this place, the writer is princi- that^cU ^"^ ^^'^ " ^'''^'^® °^ Quebec," published in QUEBEC. 259 Prescott Gate, which is the chief thoroughfare for all the commercial business of the port, especially during the navigable season ; and then Mountain street, as this route is named, presents the appearance of a crowded and ac- tive population. On the north of the city, and where the promontory has considerably declined in height, there are two entrances — Hope Gate, not far from the eastern ex- tremity of the rampart, and Palace Gate adjoining the Armory and the Artillery Barracks. These gates are on that side of the city which is washed by the St. Charles. From the land there are two avenues to the interior of the fortifications : that to the east is known as the St. Louis Gate, which conducts by a beautiful road to the Plains of Abraham ; the other is at the end of St. John street, and thence denominated St. John's Gate. This is the route through which the chief part of the country trade passes. The long street from the termination of the Banlieu on the south-west, upon the St. Lawrence, skirting the Cape round to the Wood Yard belonging to the government, including Mountain street to the Prescott Gate, and all the other shorter streets below the hill and the river, are generally denominated the Lower Town. The portion between the road outside of the Gate of St. Louis and that of St. John street, to the line of the Banlieu, is call- ed the suburbs of St. Louis. From St. John street northerly to the Cote St. Genevieve, and returning to the end of the Banlieu, all the buildings are included in the St. John suburbs ; and the large district extending from the Wood Yard along by the foot of the hill to the wes- tern extremity of the Banlieu, and bounded on the north- 260 QUEBEC. west by the St. Charles river, bears the appellation of the suburbs of St. Roch. As travellers are generally restricted to time, they have often failed to gratify their curiosity for want of a direc- tory or guide, by which they might with the greatest fa- cility view the most important objects, and also from not having previously obtained a letter of introduction to some respectable citizen who would accompany them in their explorations. To remove these obstacles, the .following methodical plan of an excursion through the city and the accompanying descriptions are given. They will be found to be accurate, and will save the tourist from in- numerable perplexities, to which he would otherwise be subject. Taking the Upper Town Market-House as the place of departure, the observer has on the west the ancient Monastery of the Jesuits, now used as the Barracks for the troops of the garrison. It is a capacious quadrangular edifice of 75 yards by 67, encircled by a wall which measures on the north the whole length of Fabrique street, and more than 200 yards on Anne street. The area enclosed, and which now is appropriated for the parades and exercise of the troops, was formerly an ele- gant garden. Fronting on the east side of Market-Place is the principal Roman Catholic Church, which is open nearly the whole hours of day-light. It is a massive unornaraented and spacious stone building. From the vestibule, the body of the interior is subdivided into equal proportions. At the termination of the nave is the grand altar in the middle of the ellipse constituting the sanctum, the walls QUEBEC. 261 of which are ornamented with representations and fig- ures, commingled with various other graphical emblems. Among the pictures are the Conception — the Apostle Paul in his cxtatic vision — the Saviour ministered unto by an- gels — the flight of Joseph and Mary — the Redeemer and the cross — the nativity of Christ — the Saviour under the contumelious outrages of the soldiers — the day of Pente- cost — and the Holy Family. During the siege of Que- bec, in 1759, this church was set on fire by shells dis- charged from a battery on Point Levi, and all the paint- ings and ornaments consumed except the first above mentioned, which was afterwards found among the ruins. The avenue north of the church conducts the tourist to The Seminary, a capacious superstructure of stone, in the form of a parallelogram. It is encircled by a large garden, walled in, measuring in the whole about seven acres. This institution was established in 1663, and was originally designed for the education of ecclesiastics ; but this exclusive system was long since abandoned, and it is now open for the reception of all who comply with its regulations. Attached to the Seminary is a museum of natiu-al curiosities ; and on the left of the grand entrance from Market-Place is the vestibule of the chapel, in which are a great variety of sacred paintings. From this the tourist can proceed to the church ; and thence to the Place d'Armes, where, on the east of the Pentagon, stood the Castle of St. Lewis, the former residence of the Governor, and which was destroyed by fire in the winter of 1834. On the south side, and nearly adjoin- ing, is the Q62 QUEBEC. Court House, a plain neat building of stone, about 140 feet long, and as many broad. It stands where once stood a church belonging to the order of the RecoUets, which was burnt in 1796. On the comer of Fort street, south of the site of the Castle of St. Lewis, is a large building used for public offices, the front room of which on the first story, con- tains the Museum of the " Society for promoting Liter- ature, Science, Arts and Historical Research in Upper Canada." A visit to it will prove extremely interesting. Crossing the Place d'Armes to Des Carrieres street, the visitor will next inspect the Monument, erected in memory of Wolf and Montcalm. This consists of a base and a pillar, surmounted by a vig= nette of graphic delineation. The base is about 5 by 6 feet, and the whole height of the monument is 65 feet. It contains two Latin inscriptions. After viewnng from the promenade at the exterior of the Governor's quarters the beauteous landscape diverging to the northeast, the visitor will return to St. Lewis street, where, after pass- ing the office of the Commissariat, he will turn by Parloir street, to the Ursuline Nunnery and Church. This nunnery and the land adjoining it occupy a space of about 7 acres, which is surrounded by a high barrier of stone. This institution was founded in 1639, and the edifice, which is of stone, is 2 stories high, 114 feet long, and about 40 broad. At the east projection^is the chapel, about 100 feet long and 50 in breadth, the interior of which is highly decorated. The convent is neat and includes a superior, 42 assistants and 7 novices, the chief employment of whom is the tui- QUEBEC. 263 tion of a large number of girls in common knowledge and other qualifications. They are more rigid and retired than the inmates of any other conventual institution in Canada. Persons of distinction only are permitted to ex- amine the domestic departments ; but the Chaplain, whose apartments are on the right of the entrance, per- mits strangers to examine the church on application to him. Among the paintings there exhibited, are the por- traits of some of the Popes — the Birth of Immanucl— the Saviour exhibiting his heart to the Religieuses — the Sa- viour taken down from the cross — a cargo of Christians captured by the Algerines— Louis XIII. of France— and several devices taken from the scriptures. The altars are highly ornamented and imposing. Leaving the nunnery, the visitor will next proceed by Anne street, with the south wing of the barracks on his right, to the Presbyterian church. Passing its front he will leave the jail on the right, where he pursues his course to the Esplanade. If he has no citizen as a companion, and no other mode of visiting the fortification, he should turn up St. Ursule to St. Louis street, and at the military of- fices request from the adjutant general a card of admis- sion to walk round the interior of the Citadel. This stupendous fortress circumscribes the whole area on the highest part of Cape Diamond, and not only accommodates the garrison as a residence, parade, &c. but also includes all the materials of war. It per- fectly commands the city and river St. Lawrence ; and is one of the best specimens of mihtary architecture on the American continent. x2 ^^ 264 QWEBEC. Having entered the grand western gate, where the vis- itor leaves his ticket with a soldier on guard, and examin- ed the edifice, he will first proceed round the course of the citadel to the flag staff" and telegraph ; thence south- erly by the parapet bordering on the river to the machinery at the head of the rail- way, or inclined plane, which is 500 feet long, extending from the wharf to the cape, where its perpendicular elevation is 345 feet above the stream. This rail-way is used by the government alone, to convey stones and other articles of great weight and bulk, for the erection of the fortress. Having surveyed from the highest point the majestic scene in every diversified aspect of hill and dale, land and water, the visitor will follow the course of the wall on his left hand, until he returns to the same gate, and pursue his walk by it, over St. Louis gate along the Esplanade, until he arrives opposite the church of the Congreganistes, im- mediately below which is the national school house. Proceeding along St. John street, he will turn north of St. Stanislaus street, on the east side of which stands Trinity chapel, whence crossing Carleton street, he ar- rives at the artillery barracks and the armory — the latter of which may be inspected, if a resident of the city be in company. Opposite the armory is the anatomical room of the med- ical society. Thence walking up Palace street, on the right hand is St. Helen street, where is Mr. Chasseur's natural museum. Returning into Palace street, the vis- itor crosses obliquely above to Collins' Lane, in which stands on the left, the QUEBEC. 265 Chapel of the Hotel Dieu. These premises include a large proportion of the northern part of the interior of the city — commencing from the gate of the burial ground on Couillard street and extending to Palace street, with a wall on the north parallel to the fortifications ; the whole space occupying about 12 acres. The institution was commenced in 1637, under the auspices of the Duchess of Aiguillon, and was consecrated to the reception and care of the sick, who are indigent and distressed. It is a capacious edifice, the longest portion of which extends nearly 130 yards by 17 in depth, and 3 stories high. On the northwest side from the centre, a range is erected 2 stories high, 50 yards in length, and nearly as many feet broad, plain and unadorned. This wing is appropriated for the patients ; the upper story of which is occupied by females. All proper attendance both from the nuns and physicians, is gratuitously administered. In the convent the sisterhood reside, who now include the superieure, 33 religeuses professes, two novices and 1 postulants. The regularity, neatness and purity with which the establishment is conducted, and the solace of the wretched who find refuge in this hospitable domain, are highly exemplary. The church of the Hotel Dieu externally is perfectly plain, and the interior is little adorned. The paintings may be examined upon application to the chaplain. Having completed an examination of the Hotel Dieu, with the surrounding garden, the visitor may next follow Couillard, St. Joachin and St. George's streets to the Chrand Battery and the ancient palace of the Catholic bishop, now used by the provincial parliament ; or he can 266 QUEBEC. return to Palace street, and continue his progress to the gate, where, by passing the guard house and pursuing his walk easterly, he may accurately understand the nature of the defence which the city can make against external assault. The first house at which he arrives is distinguished as the former residence of the renowned Montcalm. There he may turn to the right, which will lead him to Couillard street, or he can continue his walk passing Hope Gate, until he arrives at the Look-out from the northeast plat- form of the battery. In the lower town, the only objects which merit notice, besides the inclined plane or rail-way to the Citadel, are the Exchange Reading Room, and the Quebec Library, which are always open for the admission of strangers, if regularly introduced, and are worthy of inspection. About 100 yards from the lower end of the rail- way, General MoiNTGOMERY and his aids with other men were killed on the morning of December 31, 1775, when pro- ceeding to the assault of Quebec. The place may be easily recognized, notwithstanding the alterations which have occurred. At that period a narrow path only was made between the foot of the hill and the river, so that vessels were fastened to the rock by large iron bolts, one of which still remains near the spot where the American General and his advanced party were discomfited. The wharves, houses, &c. all have been long since construct- ed. At the top of the small ascent on the street immedi- ately below, the small battery had been erected, near the plot where the southerly forge is now stationed. As Montgomery led on the attack, the British retreated be ClUEBEC. 267 fore him. In parsing round Cape Diamond, the ice and projecting rocks rendered it necessary for the Americans to press forward in a narrow file, until they arrived at the block house and picket. The General was himself in front, and assisted with his own hands to cut down and pull up the picket. The roughness of the way had so lengthened his line of march, that he was obliged to wait for a force to come up before he could proceed. Having re-assembled about 200 men, he advanced boldly and rap- idly at their head to force the barrier. One or two of the enemy had by this time ventured to return to the battery, and seeing a match standing by one of the guns, touched it off, when the American force was within 40 paces of it. This single and accidental fire struck down Gen. Mont- gomery and his aids, Captain M'Pherson and Captain Cheesman. The remains of Montgomery were interred by a soldier of the name of Thompson within a wall that surrounded a powder magazine near the ramparts bounding on St. Lewis' gate ; and in 1818 were removed to New- York, where they were deposited beneath a monument in front of St. Paul's church. The Plains of Abraham lie south and west of Quebec. The visitor, on leaving St. Louis gate, should turn up the stairs of the Glacis, continue his course under the citadel, and pursue a path to the right. At the termination of the enclosure, the bank is ascended to the Plains of Abraham, near the spot where Wolfe died. The large house at a distance in the front is erected on the site of a French re- doubt, which defended the ascent from Wolfe's cove, am was the primary object of assault and capture, after th* 268 auEBEc. top of the hill had been gained by the British troops. The precipice at the cove, from 150 to 200 feet in height, and full of projections of rocks and trees, seemed to be ren- dered almost impassable. General Wolfe, however, with miparalleled fortitude, led the way in the night, (Sept. 12, 1759,) through a narrow path winding obliquely up the hill, w^hich, with the assistance of boughs and stumps, enabled him and his troops to gain the summit. Here, by day-light the next morning, they were formed in line of battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. General Montcalm, on receiving information that the British had possession of the heights, broke up his camp atj Beaufort, crossed the St. Charles river, and at about 10 o'clock in the morning commenced the attack. After a desperate struggle of about two hours, in which both commanders had been mortally wounded, the French gave way and left the field in possession of the victors. Wolfe fell at the critical moment that decided the vic- tory. He was wounded in the early part of the engage- ment by a bullet in his wrist — soon after by a ball which passed through his groin — and it was not until a third had pierced his breast, that he suffered himself to be carried from the field. " I die happy," was his exclamation, when in the arms of death he heard the joyful shouts of victory. The Martello Towers, consisting of four circular forts, are situated at the northern extremity of the Plains of Abraham, about half a mile in advance of the exterior grand wall of the fortifications. They are numbered from the river St. Lawrence to the General Hospital, and guard the approaches to the city on the south and west. i FALLS OF MONTMORENCl. 269 They arc nearly 40 feet in height, with a base diameter ahnost equal ; and the exterior wall is of ample strength to resist a cannonade. The Falls of Montmorenci are situated about 8 miles northeast of Quebec, on the river of the same name, near its junction with the St. Lawrence. These falls pour over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in height, and may almost compare in beauty and grandeur with the cataract of Niagara. The effect from the summit of the cliff is awfully grand and sublime. The prodigious depth of the descent of the waters of this surprising fall ; the brightness and volubili- ty of their course ; the swiftness of their movement through the air ; and the loud and hollow noise emitted from the basin, swelhng with incessant agitation from the weiglit of the dashing waters, forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to impress the mind of the spectator with sentiments of grandeur and elevation. The breadth of the fall is 100 feet ; and the basin, which is bounded by steep cliffs, forms an angle of forty-five degrees. When viewed from the beach, the cataract is seen, with resplendent beauty, to flow down the gloomy precipice, the summit of which is crowded with woods. The diffu- sion of the stream, to the breadth of 1 ,500 feet, and the various small cascades produced by the inequalities of its rocky bed, on its way to the St. Lawrence, display a very singular and pleasing combination. Remains of entrenchments and fortifications erected during the French war are still to be seen near the falls. A battery occupied by Gen. Wolfe, in June, 1759, on the precipice north-east of the falls, is yet visible. The 270 FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. French occupied the opposite bank ; and Wolfe attempt- ed to storm their works by fording the river below the falls and ascending the heights. Without forming in a regular manner, and without waiting for additional rein- forcements which were on their way from Point Levi, Wolfe's men rashly ascended the hill, eager for the onset, and were cut down by the French artillery and musquet- ry, and obliged to retreat. The Enghsh loss was about 500 ; while that of the French was trifling. A storm coming on, further attempts to dislodge the French were abandoned. The British afterwards ascended the river, ' and the action on the Plains of Abraham, which has already been noticed, took place in the month of Septem- ber following. There are three points which afford the best views of the Falls. 1. From the upper window of the mill, whence the projecting leap is safely seen. 2. Having crossed the bridge, the visitor proceeds along the brow of the hill until he arrives nearly in front of the whole cat- aract ; from this summit, the view, with the concomitant circmnstances, inspire commingled emotions of awe, ter- ror and astonishment. From the same spot there is a lucid and beauteous prospect of Quebec, with its encir- cling scenery ; and with an ordinary magnifying glass, the observer can discern all the prominent objects — the steeples, towers, fortifications, principal edifices, the ship- ping, the course of the St. Lawrence, until it is lost among the hills — Point Levi and its vicinity — the north side of the island of Orleans — the point of Angel Garden — and the shores of the river as far as Cape Tourment. 3. Hence the visitor descends the hill, and pursuing its LORETTE. 271 course to the right, he may ordinarily advance to the rock which interrupts the turbulence of the stream when discharged into the chasm. In the view from below, the most vivid impressions of this gorgeous cascade are pro- duced; and travellers who do not thus survey the falls, can form only a faint and incorrect idea of its apparently changing ciFect. At a considerable distance above the Falls, the chan. nel of the river is contracted between high vertical rocks, and the water rushes with proportionate velocity. In one part, at about half a mile from the bridge, cascades of three or four yards in depth are adjacent to two fine geological curiosities, familiarly denominated the Natural Steps, which appear to have been formed by the attrition of the stream, occasioned by the melting of the snows and the augmented rapidity of the flood. Many of these steps arc so regular, that they almost develope the pro- cess of human art. The perpendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side — the tree-crowned summit — the uniformity of appearance, resembling an ancient castle wall in ruins — the precipices on the western bank — and the foaming noisy current, pourtray a romantic wildness, which is highly attractive. Observers are amply remu- nerated for their walk, as conjoined with this interesting object, they witness the continuous descent and the ac- celerating force and celerity with which the river is pro- pelled to the point, whence it is precipitated into the St. Lawrence. LoKETTE, an Indian village, about 8 miles from the city, can be taken in the route to or from the falls of Montmorenci. It is built upon an elevated situation, Y 272 CHAUDIERE FALLS. whence there is an extensively varied and agreeable land- scape, in many points similar to that from Cape Diamond, but also including some interesting novelties of outline. It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of Quebec and its suburbs, and in its extent it is bounded solely by the dis- tant southern mountains. The Indian inhabitants of the village retain many of the prominent characteristics of the aboriginal roamers of the forest, combined with vicious habits contracted by their proximity to a large sea-port, and their mtercourse with its migratory population. At this village is a very charming view of the river St. Charles, tumbling and foaming over the rocks and ledges to a great depth. The rugged and perpendicularly ele- vated woody cliffs, in connection with the impetuous rush of the waters, although circumscribed in extent, and therefore affording no expanded prospect in immediate front, yet, as seen from the Saw-Mill, and from the bank and the bridge at the head of the dell, in its different po- sitions and aspects, constitute an object which, when contrasted with the more majestic cataracts of Montmo- renci and the Chaudiere, or recollected in combination with them, furnishes in memorial an addition to the va- rieties which those stupendous natural curiosities embody. The Chaudiere Falls can be approached by land or water. The former is generally preferred, the distance to the mouth of the Chaudiere being nine miles from Quebec. Thence visitors can cross at the ferry and take an indirect path to the west bank of the river, or diverge from the St. Lawrence some distance north of the Chau- diere, and arrive within a short walk of the falls on the eastern bank. The river at the cascade is much com- CHAUDIERE FALLS. 273 pressed, being only about 400 feet across ; and the depth into the Pot, as it is usually termed, is about 135 feet. Many rocks divide the stream, precisely at the fall, into three chief currents, of which the westerly is the largest — these partially reunite before their broken and agitated waves are received into the basin ; where each dashing against the other maintains a turbulent whirlpool. The form of the rocks forces a part of the waters into an ob- liqiie direction, advancing them beyond the line of the precipice, while the cavities in the rocks increase the foaming fury of the revolving waters in their descent, dis- playing globular figures of brilliant whiteness, which are richly contrasted with the encircling, dark and gloomy clifFs, while the ascending spray developes all the variety of the coloured cloudy arch, and enlivens the beauty of the landscape : the wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, effulgent brightness and the deeply solemn sound of the cataracts, all combining to present a rich assemblage of objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is instantaneously surprised by the de- lightful scene. Below, the view is greatly changed, and the falls produce an additional strong and vivid impres- sion. If strangers only view the falls from one side of the river, the prospect from the eastern shore is recom- mended as preferable. Tlie Montmorenci and Chaudierc Falls, the village of Lorette and Lake St. Charles, together with the scenery of Orleans, a beautiful island six miles down the St. Law- rence, Beaufort and Point Levi, will always afford inter- esting excursions to the tourist at Quebec. 274 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. The St. Lawrence below Quebec. — Those who have not seen this part of this greatest of the navigable rivers in the world, can form but a very imperfect idea of its grandeur, and the magnificence of its scenery. Above the island of Orleans, the St. Lawrence is comparatively confined to a narrow channel passing through a level country, offering much sameness on the south shore, with the mountains on the north, too distant to produce much effect. The views on the great Lakes of the St. Law- rence in the Upper Province, stretching out of sight of land, differ little from those on any extended sea coast studded with islands, and bordered with towns and hab- itations. The St. Lawrence below the Island of Orleans, from many points on its northern banks, lays open to the view a hundred miles of a river varying from twenty to twenty, five miles in width, the whole course and coast of which, in this clear atmosphere, can be distinctly discerned. Beautiful islands covered with neat dwellings and culti- vated fields, contrast with those that are of bare rock, or covered with wood ; the crowded settlements, the villages and distant, highlands on the south shore, are opposed to the bold and lofty mountains of the north, crowned with the native forests, and impending over the margin of the river, while the valleys formed by the streams and tor- rents of these mountain regions, leave openings in which the village gpires are discernible in front of the bare, rug- ged and stupendous ranges in the interior. Li other pla- ces the settlements extend nearly to the tops of the mountains, presenting to the view neat dwellings, luxuri- ant harvests, and green fields, etched out on the face of SAGUENAY RIVER. 275 the wildest of nature's domains. Along the main chan- nel of the river, numbers of the thousands of vessels which frequent Quebec during the season of navigation, are continually passing up or down under crowded sails, or quietly anchored, waiting the tides or winds, and from behind every cape and promontory, among the islands, and in every bay and creek, the smaller vessels and boats are constantly plying in the industrious pursuits of the in- habitants, or on excursions of social intercourse. It is a scene which elevates the mind to devout contemplation, and a just appreciation of the benefits of peaceful industry. The inhabitants of this part of the St. Lawrence are estimated at about 100,000. The Saguenay, which enters the St. Lawrence on its northern shore, about 100 miles below Quebec, is one of the most extraordinary rivers in the world. It is the grand outlet of the waters from the Saguenay country into the St. Lawrence, and although only a tributary stream, has the appearance of a long mountain lake, in an extent of fifty miles, rather than that of a river. The scenery is of the most wild and magnificent description. The river varies from about a mile to two miles in breadth, and follows its impetuous course in a south-east direction, through a deep valley formed by mountains of gneiss and sicnitic granite, which in some places rise vertically from the water side to an elevation of two thousand feet. There is a feature attending this river, which renders it a natural curiosity, and is probably the only instance of the kind. The St. Lawrence is about eighteen miles wide at their confluence, and has a depth of about two hundred and fortv feet. A ridge of rocks below the sur- y2 276 SAGUENAY RIVER. face of the water, through which there is a channel about one hundred and twenty feet deep, lies across the mouth of the Saguenay, within which tlie depth increases to eight hundred and forty feet, so that the bed of the Saguenay is absolutely six hundred feet below that of the St. Lawrence into which ilf falls, a depth w^hich is pre- served many miles up the river. So extraordinary a fea- ture could only occur inai-ccky country, such as is found in some parts of Canada, where the beauties of nature are displayed in their wildest form. The course of the tide, meeting with resistance from the rocks at the mouth of the Saguenay, occasions a violent rippling or surf, which is much increased and exceedingly dangerous to boats during the ebb tide. The extraordinary depth of the river, and the total want of information concerning it, has given rise to an idea among the credulous fishermen, of its being in many part^^ unfathomable. This effect is admissible on uninformed minds, for there is always an appearance of mystery about a river vrhen its water is even discoloured so as to prevent the bed from being seen, and the delusion is here powerfully assisted by the lofty overshadowing precipices of either shore. Following the course of tlie river upwards, it preserves a westerly direction to the distance of 60 miles, in some parts about half a mile broad, in others expanding into small lakes, about two miles across to their borders, being interspersed with a few low islands. In the narrow parts of the river, the depth at the distance of a few yards from the precipice forming the bank is six hundred feet, and in the middle of the river it increases to nearly nine hundred. Here the navigation is suddenly terminated by a succes- QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 277 sion of falls and rapids, near which is situated the trading port of Chicotimy. At this place there is an old church, built about two centuries ago by the Jesuits, who were active in civilizing the native Indians. The church is still kept in decent repair by the Indians, and is annu- ally visited by a missionary priest. These people are few in number and are not to be met with between this tra- dmg post and the mouth of the river. A fine tract of country commences here, intersected by several rivers issuing from Lake St. John, distant about sixty-seven miles farther to the westward. The little communication which is carried on with this lake is, by means of these rivers, in bark canoes and batteaux and flat bottomed boats of the country ; but it is subject to much interrup- tion from the portage or carrying places necessary to avoid the numerous falls in them. The tide of emigration is directed in this quarter. It was in this river that the ships of the French squad- ron found a secure retreat, at the memorable siege of Quebec under Gen. Wolfe. At the mouth of the St. Lavn-ence, 360 miles below Quebec, the river is 100 miles wide. It here connects with the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 350 miles long and ] 50 wide, which commxmicates with the Atlantic by three different passages. FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL,. In returning to Montreal, the traveller (as before re- marked) should, if practicable, take a boat at such an hour, as to give him a chance of viewing by day-light on 278 MONTREAL TO WHITEHALL. the river the scenery which, in descending, was passed in the night. The approach to Montreal in ascending the river is extremely beautiful. The mount behind the city clothed in a rich and unbroken foliage, the numerous adjacent country seats, the spires and edifices of the city, and the beautiful woody island in front, all conspire in presenting a rich and truly diversified landscape, and one that will not be easily effaced from the memory. [For a description of Montreal, see p. 251.] FROM MONTREAL* TO WHITEHALL Is 178 miles, and the intervening distances are as fol- lows : Miles. By steamboat. From Montreal to La Prairie, 7 By rail road. St. Johns, 17 24 By stea?nboat. Isle AuxNoix, 14 38 Rouse's Point, 10 48 Chazy, 12 60 Miles. Plattsburgh, 15 75 Port Kent, 15 90 Burlington, 11 101 Split Rock, 12 113 Essex, 2 115 Basin Harbor,.... 12 127 Crown Point, 12 139 Ticonderoga, 12 154 Whitehall, 15 178 La Prairie, 7 miles from Montreal, is reached by steamboat. It is a village of between two and three hun- * At Montreal a stage can be taken for Danville, Vt. distant 100 miles; thence to the I^otch in the White Mountains, 28 miles; thence to Concord, N. H., 'i5 miles ; and thence to Boston, 68 miles. The whole route is performed in four days. [For a description of the White Mountains^ see " Route from Burling- ton to Boston."] i LAKK CHAMPLAIN. 279 dred houses, and is the grand thoroughfare of trade be- tween Montreal and St. Jolms. The La Prairie and St. Johns Rail Road commences at this place and extends to St. Johns, the terminating point of steamboat navigation on Lake Champlain. The road, which is 17 miles long, is very straight, and over a remarkably level country ; and the time usually employed in passing over it by steam is one hour. St. Johns, 17 miles. This place was an important post during the French and Revolutionary wars. In the latter it was taken after a gallant defence, by General Montgomery, as was also Chambly. It contains, at present, 150 houses and 1000 inhabitants. Though a place of considerable business, it possesses nothing in its appearance or accommodations inviting to a stran- ger. Steamboats leave St. Johns daily for Whitehall, and touch at all the intermediate places on the lake. Fare through, ^5. LAKE CHAMPLAIN Forms part of the boundary line between the states of New- York and Vermont. Its length is 140 miles, and the greatest breadth 14. A great proportion of the lands on the margin of the lake are still unredeemed from a state of nature, and in some places, particularly at the north end, are low and marshy. After entering the terri- tories cf the United States, the country is more popu- lous, and under a better state of improvement. The vil- lages seen from the lake all exhibit a cheerful and thriving appearance. The lake properly terminates at Mount In- dependence ; w^hence to Whitehall, a distance of 23 280 PLATTSBURGH. miles, it assumes the appearance of a river, in which httle more than room is left at any point to turn the boat. The history of Champlain involves many interesting events associated with the French and Revolutionary wars. Durmg those periods several fortifications were constructed, which have since undergone some repairs, but are now in a state of decay. The ruins of the ancient fortress at Ticonderoga and Crown Point are still visible. Isle Aux Noix, 1 4 miles from St. Johns. This is a strong mihtary and naval post possessed by the English. The works are generally in good preservation ; and are occupied by a small military corps. In the expedition against Canada in 1775, the troops under Generals Schuy- ler and Montgomery went down the lake in rafts and landed at this island, whence they proceeded to St. Johns. The other detachment, under General Arnold, marched by land through the present state of Maine (then a wilderness) to Quebec. Rouse's Point, at the outlet of Lake Champlain, and 10 miles from the Isle Aux Noix, contains strong stone fortifications, erected by the United States, but which by the decision of the commissioners appointed to settle the boundary line between the American and British govern- ments, fell within the territories of the latter. The village of Plattsburgh, 27 miles further, is hand- somely located at the mouth of the Saranac river, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It contains about 350 dwellings, besides the court house and prison for the county, a bank and several churches. The number of inhabitants is about 3000. This place is rendered cele. PLATTSBDRGH. 283 brated by the brilliant victory of M'Donough and Ma- comb, over the British land and naval forces under Sir George Provost and Commodore Downie. The naval engagement took place in front of the village, which overlooks the extensive Bay of Plattsburgh for several miles. Here the American Commodore waited at anchor the arrival of the British fleet, which appeared passing Cumberland Head, about 8 in the morning of the 11th September, 1814. The first gun from the fleet was the signal for commencing the attack on land. Sir George Provost, with about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted the defences of the town, whilst the battle raged with in- creasing ardor between the fleets, then contending in full view of the respective armies. General Macomb, with his gallant little army, consisting of about 3000 men, mostly undisciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the British fleet, after an ac- tion of two hours, obliged him to retire, with the loss of 2500 meU; together with considerable baggage and am- munition. The American force on the lake consisted of 86 guns and 820 . men ; and was opposed to a force of 95 guns and 1050 men. Thus ended the affair at Platts- hurgh, no less honorable to American valor than disas- trous to the British arms. Commodore Downie was killed in the engagement. He was represented as a brave and skilful officer ; but was opposed to the method of at- tack on the American flotilla. A monument erected to the memory of Commodore Downie, in the church yard at Plattsburgh, contains the following inscription : S82 PLATTSBURGB. " Sacred to the memory of George Downie, Esq. & Post Captain in the Royal British Navy, who gloriously fell on board his B. M. S. the Confiance, while leading the vessels tmder his command to the attack of the Amer- ican flotilla at anchor in Cumberland Bay, off Plattsburgh, on the 11th September, 1814. To mark the spot where the remains of a gallant officer and sincere friend were honorably interred, this stone has been erected by his af> fectionate sister-in-lay Mary Downie." The remains of a number of officers of both armies, who fell in the engagement, repose near the Commodore, with no monument to inform the stranger, and with no record but tradition to denote the spot of their interment. East of Downie are five graves, occurring in the follow- ing order: commencing south — Captain Copeland, an American officer — Lieut. Stansbury, of the American na- vy — Lieut. Runk, of the American army — Lieut. Gam- ble, of the American navy — and a British Sergeant. On the north side of Downie are the remains of the British Lt. Col. Wellington— on the south two British Lieuten- ants — on the west, Captain Purchase and four other offi- cers, three of whom were British. The traveller will find many objects of interest at Plattsburgh, which will warrant his continuance there for one or two days. A short distance from the village are the cantonment and breast works occupied by General Macomb and his troops during the last war. A mile north is shown the house possessed by Gen. Prevost as his head quarters during the siege in 1814; between which and the village, the marks of cannon shot on trees and other objects, are still visible. Farther onward, about 5 miles, PORT KENT^ — ADGATE'S FALLS. 283- on a hill overlooking the village of Beekmantown, is shown the spot where a sanguinary engagement took place be- tween the American and British troops, which resulted in the death of the British Col. Wellington, and several men of both armies. Col. W. was killed in the centre of the road, about equidistant from the sunjmit and foot of the hill. McDonougJi's Farm, granted by the legislature of Ver- mont, lies on Cumberland Head, nearly east of Platts- burgh; a ride to which, around the baj^ in the warm season, is refreshing and dehghtful. Port Kent, 15 miles southerly from Plattsburgh by ■water, and 15 by land. It contains a few buildings and a- wharf, at which passengers are landed from the steam boat. From this place may be seen, on the north, the Isle la Mott, 26 miles distant. Grand Island, the Two Sisters, Point la Roche, Cumberland Head, and Belcore and Macomb Islands ; on the east, Stave, Providence and Hog Islands, Colchester Point, and the Green Moun- tains of Vermont ; on the south, the village of Burlington, about 11 miles distant, with the high peak called the Camel's Rump ; the whole forming a most delightful and pleasant landscape not excelled at any other point of the lake passage. Three miles west from Port Kent, are the celebrated Adgate's Falls. They are situated on the river Au. Sable, and take their name from a person residing there, who is the proprietor of some valuable mills in the vicinity. The water pours over a precipice about 80 foet in height, into a narrow channel of the river, the banks of which 284 BURLINGTON. consist of rock, rising perpendicularly to the height of from GO to 100 feet. At what is called the High Bridge, about half a mile below the falls, the channel is narrowed to 27 feet. The height of the rocks here, which are perpendicular, is 93 feet, and the water 35 feet deep. Over this chasm a bridge was once erected, by tlirowing timbers across ; but it has since decayed. The sensations produced on looking into this gulf are ter- rific, and the stoutest heart involuntarily shrinks from the contemplation. There is an indifferent road from the falls to the High Bridge, but, with this exception, the spot is yet a wilderness. About 4 miles in a westerly direction from this, is the thriving village of Keeseville, which contains several manufactories, a bank, and a number of handsome resi- dences. It is a place of much enterprise, and is destined to become a large town. Burlington* is situated on the east side of Lake Cham- plain, about 24 miles southeast of Plattsburgli. This is one of those beautiful villages which so often attract the notice of a stranger in the New-England states. The ground rises with a moderate ascent from the lake, and presents a slope covered with handsome houses and trees. On the highest part of the eminence, which is 330 feet above the level of the lake, stands the University of Ver- mont. This summit commands a noble view of the lake and the adjacent country, for many miles. There are * Travellers designing to visit Boston, frequently take a stage at this place, on a route which is noticed in a sub- sequent part of this work. SPLIT ROCK CROWN POINT. 285 here about 350 houses and stores, two banks, a court house, jail, and several churches. About 12 miles from Burlington, in the town of Willsborough, (N. Y.) is what is called the Split Rock. This curiosity is a prrt of a rocky prom- ontory projecting into the lake, on the west side, about 150 feet, and elevated above the level of the water about 12 feet. The part broken off contains about half an acre, covered with trees, and is separated from the main rock about 20 feet. The opposite sides exactly fit each other — the prominences in the one coiTcsponding with the cavi- ties in the other. Through this fissure a hne has been let down to the depth of 500 feet without finding bottom. Crown Point is situated 36 miles from Burlington, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It is formed by an ex- tensive deep bay on the west, skirted by a steep moun- tain, and on the north and east by the body of the lake. The elevated plain was first occupied by the French, in 1731, as a military position, and abandoned by them in 1759, when Gen. Amherst took possession of it, and built Fort Frederick. The ruins of this fort may still be traced, being situated directly opposite to Chimney Point on the south side of the bay. After the peace of 1763, it was occupied by a subaltern and a mere safe-guard, until it was burnt by accident some time previous to the Ameri- can revolution. In 1775 it fell into the hands of the Americans, and was afterwards evacuated by them, on the advance of Burgoyne, in 1776. A few years since a number of British guineas were found here, from the ac- cidental crumbling of the earth from the banks where they had been deposited. fi'i., , 286 TICONDEROGA — ^WHITEHALL. TicoNDEROGA, which has already been noticed, (see p. 157,) is situated 15 miles south of Crown Point, and 24 miles north of Whitehall. One mile from Ticonderoga is Mount Independence, on the east side of the lake ; near the foot of which the remains of a small battery are still to be seen. What was called the Horse-Shoe battery was on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. Nine miles farther, the lake is contracted into four narrow channels, boimded on the west and east by lofty mountains. South and East Bays are soon reached, each of about 5 miles in extent. The former was taken by Gen. Dies- kau and his army, in their route towards Fort Edward in 1755. From the latter bay to Whitehall, the passage is extremely narrow and of a serpentine course, and cannot be pursued in safety during a dark night. Whitehall,* terminates the steamboat navigation of Lake Champlain. It is an incorporated village situated on the west bank of Wood creek at its entrance into tlie lake, 73 miles north of Albany, and contains about 250 dwellings and stores, and 2000 inhabitants. The sit- uation of this place is lovv" and unpleasant. It derives its principal consequence from the navigation of the lake, which is passable for sloops of 80 tons burthen, and from the Champlain canal, which here enters the lake. Bur- goyne occupied this place for a short time, preparatory to * A route from this place to Boston is noticed post, p. 306. CHAMPLAIN CANAL. 287 his march to Saratoga; and on the heights, over the harbor, are the remains of a battery and block house. THE CHAMPLAIN CANAL, Commencing at Whitehall, proceeds south 5 1-2 miles, when it enters Wood creek, a narrow sluggish stream, av- eraging 15 feet in depth. The crock is connected with the canal, and is rendered navigable for boats for about 6 1-2 miles to Fort Ann village. Thence the canal pro- ceeds through Fort Ann, Kingsbury and Fort Edward, to Fort Miller falls, below which the canal enters the Hudson river, which is made navigable 3 miles to Saratoga falls, where the canal is taken out of the river on the west side, and proceeds through Saratoga, Stillwater and Half- moon to Waterford, where it enters the Hudson, and by a branch canal enters the Mohawk, which it crosses by a dam and continuing 3-4 of a mile, joins the Erie canal in the town of Watervliet. The whole length of the Cham plain canal is 63 miles. The cost to the state, ex- clusive of the feeder from Glen's Falls, was $875,000. The intervening distances on the canal between White- hall and Albany are as follows : Miles. Fort Ann, 12 Sandy Kill, 8 20 Fort Edward, 2 22 Fort Miller Falls, . . 8 30 Saratoga Falls, .... 333 Schuylerville, 2 35 Bemus' Heights,... 12 47 Miles. Stillwater V 3 50 Mechanicsville,,. .. 3 53 Waterford, 8 61 Watervliet, 2 63 Gibbonsville, 2 65 Albany, 6 71 z2 288 FORT ANN. FROM WHITEHALL TO TROY AND ALBANY. BY STAGE AND RAIL ROAD. Stages leave Whitehall every morning on the arrival of the Champlain steamboats, and reach Saratoga Springs in time to dine ; whence the rail road is taken for Troy or Albany immediately after dinner. The whole distance to the former place is 70 miles — to the latter 76, and the intermediate distances as follow : Miles. By rail road. Ballston Spa,* 7 46 Ballston Lake, .... 5 51 Schenectady, ...... 10 61, Buel'sfarm, 12 73 Albany, 3 76 Miles. By stage. From Whitehall to Fort Ann, 11 Sandy Hill, 10 21 Fortville, 7 23 Wilton, 4 32 Saratoga Springs, . . 7 39 The route is in a southern direction near the lino of the canal, until reaching Fort Ann ; half a mile north of which place, at an elbow made by Wood creek, leaving barely room between the creek and a precipitors hill for the road, a severe engagement took place in 1777, be- tween a detachment of Burgoyne's troops and a party of Americans, under the command of Col. Sterry, who were on their retreat from Ticonderoga. The Americans v;ere on the plain south of the hill, which served as a cover to the British. Their fire on Sterry's forces below was de- structive, and compelled him to abandon his position. The village of Fort Ann, 11 miles from Whitehall, contains 70 or 80 houses, and is loacated on the site of * For a description of the rail road route to Troy, see p. 127 to 132. FORTVILLE. 289 the old fort erected during the French war. It was at the north part of the village on the bank of the creek. Burgoyne's road, commencing about 2 miles south of the village, and pursuing nearly the course of the present road, is still visible. It was a causeway, formed by logs laid trans v'erscly, a labor which became necessary in con- veying his cannon and baggage waggons to Saratoga. Sandy Hill, 10 miles farther. {See p. 149.) FoRTViLLE, a small village in the town of Moreau, is 7 miles farther. About half a mile west of the village, there is a large spring, which ebbs and flows regularly with the tide. It rises through a body of beautiful fine sand, containing yellow particles of a metalic substance, and has been found to answer every purpose of the purest emery. It partakes, also, so much of the character of quick sand, that every weighty substance placed in the spring, even the longest sticks of timber, are soon drawn beneath the suface. Falling, or even stepping into the fountain, therefore, is considered extremely dangerous. At low water, the surface is nearly dry ; but at high tide, the water is seen boiling up at several points, covering an area of near a quarter of an acre. About a mile south of Fortville, the stage passes over an eminence, which affords a beautiful view of the Green Mountains of Vermont at the east and the intermediate country ; three miles from which is Wilton church ; whence to Saratoga Springs is 7 miles. [For a descrip- Hon of the latter place, together with the routes by rail road to Troy and Albany, seep. 119 to 144.] 290 NEW LEBANON. ROUTES TO EOSTOK. These arc so various, that the traveller may always be governed by his own taste and judgment in a selection. The route from Albany has been chosen by many on ac- count of enjoying in the excursion a visit to the Lebanon Springs, and several of the populous and wealthy towns in the interior of Massachusetts ; while others have prefer- red a course which should embrace the rich mountain scenery of Vermont and New-Hampshire, commencing their excursions either at Saratoga Springs, Whitehall or Burlington. We therefore subjoin a description of the different routes. FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON, Via New Lebanon — 167 miles. The intermediate distances are as follow : Miles By stage. Miles. Hadley, 2 79 Belchertown, 10 89 Ware, 9 98 Brookfield, 8 106 Spencer, 7 113 Leicester, 5 118 Worcester, 6 124 By rail road. Boston, 43 167 Schodack, 5 Nassau, 12 17 New Lebanon,. ... 8 25 Pittsfield, 9 34 Dalton, 6 40 Peru, 7 47 Worthington, 8 55 Chesterfield, 9 64 Northampton, .... 13 77 Albany, {see p. 116.) • New Lebanon, is a pleasant village in the town of Canaan, N. Y. bordering on Pittsfield, Mass. and is 25 miles from Albany. It contains a mineral spring of con- siderable importance, which is much frequented in the summer months by invalids. It is principally used for emsFmuf. 99T. the pnrppse of bathing ; but is much inferior to the Sara . toga waters either as a medicine or beverage. The foun- tain issues from the side of a high hill, in great abundance^ discharging at the rate of 18 barrels per minute ; and is used as a feeder for several mills. The water is remark- ably pure and soft, and is perfectly tasteless and inodor- ous. Gas, in considerable quantities, escapes from the pebbles and sand, and keeps the water in constant mo- tion. It contains small quantities of muriate of lime, mu- riate of soda, sulphate of lime, and carbonate of lime ; and its temperature is 73 degrees of Fahrenheit. Convenient bathing houses are kept in readiness at all times for the accommodation of strangers ; and there are a number of boarding establishments which, at different rates, afford proportionate fare. Among these, the Nav- arino Hotel is a spacious and well furnished establishmentj calculated to accommodate from 100 to 150 guests. Near the spring is what is called the Shakers' Village,, containing a number of neat plain buildings, generally painted yellow. The property of this society is held in common ; and they are said to possess nearly 3000 acres of fertile land. Besides agricultural pursuits, they carry on several branches of manufactures, which are distin- guished by excellence of workmanship. The singular regulations and ceremonies of these people, constitute an object of attention to tourists. Nine miles from New Lebanon is the village of PiTTSFiELD, rendered elegant from its local situation, and from the neatness of its buildings. The village con- tains from 150 to 200 houses, a bank, a medical college S92 NORTHAMPTON — MOUNT HOLYOKE. ^ containing one of the best anatomical museums in the U. States, an academy and several stores. Here are annual- ly held the cattle show and fair of the celebrated Berk- shire Agricultural Society, \^hich has been incorporated by act of the legislature ; and which has done more to- wards improving the condition of agi-iculture than any other institution of the kind in the union. The show and fair, which occupy tvv'O days, never fail to impart an unu- sual degree of interest, and arc always attended by im- mense crowds of citizens. Northampton is 43 miles from Pittsfield, and is one of the finest towns in New-England. It is situated a mile and a half west of Connecticut river, and was settled as early as the year 1654. It contains 2 academies, several churches, a bank, court house, jail, and 350 dwellings, some of which are very elegant. Here are also several manufactories, and the place exhibits an unusual degree of enterprise and wealth. The Farmington and Hamp- shire canal commences at this place, and extends to New- Haven, Conn. 87 miles. Over the Connecticut river, there is a substantial bridge, 1080 feet long, resting on 6 stone piers. Mount Holyoke, in the vicinity of Northampton, is much frequented by tourists. It is on the cast side of the river, nearly opposite the town. The height of the moun- tain above the level of the river is 1070 feet. In conse- quence of the resort to this place, which has not been less than from 2000 to 5000 annually, two buildings have been erected on its summit for the purpose of accommo- dating visitors with refreshments. The beautiful and ex- tensive prospect afforded from the top of the mountain, HADLEY. 293^ will amply compensate the labor and difficulty of the as- cent. The view embraces eminences 160 miles apart,, with several beautiful villages and a rich and fertile country intervening, and is said to be unrivalled in the eastern states. Hadley, 2 miles from Northampton, is one of the oldest towns in the state. It was the head quarters of the army employed for the defence of the towns on the Connecticut river, in the war with Philip in 1675-6 ; and was, for a long time, the place of residence of the two regicides or judges, Whallcy and GofFc, in the time of Charles II. On the town being attacked by the Indians during this war, a stranger, venerable in appearance, and differing in his apparel from the rest of the inhabitants, suddenly pre- sented himself at the head of the colonial troops, and en- couraged fhem by his advice and example to perseverance in defending the place. To his experience in military tactics and courage, in a great measure, was a defeat of the Indians attributable. When they retreated, the stranger disappeared ; and in those times of superstition it was verily believed by many that he was the guardian angel of the place. But he was no other than Col. GofFe, who seeing the village in danger, left his concealment to unite with its inhabitants in a vigorous defence. In connection with the history of this place, the follow- ing biographical sketch of Goffe, Whaley and Dixwell will prove interesting : On the restoration of the English monarch, Charles II. in 1660, several of the judges who sat on the trial of Charles I. were seized, condemned and executed. Others, foreseeing de result, escaped. Whalley and GofFe, two •294 HADLE1. ■of the number, came to Boston ; where, for a time, they received the hospitality due to their rank. But on learn- ing that several of the regicides had been executed, and .that Whalley andGofFe had not been included in the act of pardon, the people who had harbored them began to be alarmed ; and the two judges abruptly departed for -Connecticut. Subsequently, the King's proclamation was received, requiring their apprehension. Tliey, how- ever, eluded the vigilance of their pursuers, by secreting themselves in a cave and other secret places at New- Haven, where they continu';d between 3 and 4 years, un- til their retreat was discovered by the Indians. Tiiiding that they could no longer remain at New- Haven in safety, and that a vigilant search for them was still continued, they resolved to remove into a more secluded part of the country. A friend had succeeded in inducing the Rev. Mr. Russell, of Hadley, to receive them ; and after a toil- some journey by night, they reached his house in October, 1664. In a chamber of this house, (which was situate on the east side, and near the centre of the present main street,) having a secret passage to the cellar, they re. mained undiscovered for 15 or 16 years. During this period GofFe held a correspondence with his wife in Eng- land, under an assumed name ; and in a letter of April, 1679, it is stated that Whalley had died some time pre- vious, at Mr. Russell's. His bones were discovered not many years since in a sort of tomb adjoining the cellar wall of Mr. Russell's house. Not long after GofFe and Whalley arrived at Hadley, they were joined by Col. John Dixwell, another of the judges. After remaining some time, he went to New- BROOKFIELD. 295 Haven, assumed the name of Davids, was married, had several children, and his real name was not known until his death in 1689. He was buried in the church-yard at that place ; where a coarse stone still marks the spot of his interment, with this inscription: "J. D. Esq. de- ceased, March 18, in the 82d year of his age — 1688-9." After the death of Whalley, GofTe travelled to the south, and no certain information relative to his fate has ever been obtained. From Hadley to Belchertown, a pleasant village, is 10 miles, and thence to Ware Factory Village, is 9 miles farther. This place, located on the Ware river, has attained an as- tonishing growth within 6 or 8 years. There are few places in the country exhibiting so barren and rugged a soil as the site and lands adjacent to this flourishing little city in miniature. As you approach from the west or east, it bursts upon the view with its long range of manu- factories, its neat white houses, and glittering spires, pro- ducing the same sensation in the bosom, as the prospect of a beautiful garden in the midst of a desert. It con- tains several public buildings which would be an orna- ment to our most flourishing inland towns of more ancient date. Brookfield, 8 miles from Ware, is a handsome town, though very little improved by any recent additions of buildings. This place was burnt by the Indians in 1675o On the first alarm, the inhabitants, in all about 70, re- paired to a house slightly fortified externally with logs, and internally lined with feather beds, to check the force 296 WORCESTER. of musketry. This spot was soon surrounded by the en- emy, and a constant fire poured upon it in all directions. But the well directed shots of the besieged kept the In- dians at a considerable distance. Various devices were used by the latter for burning the building ; but their plans were thwarted by the whites, aided by a plentiful shower of rain. The attack continued for three days ; when the appearance of a body of troops from Lancaster induced the Indians to seek their own safety in a precipi- tate retreat. All the buildings in the vilage except the one fortified, were destroyed. Only one of the inhabit- ants, however, was killed ; whUe the loss of the Indians was 80. Leicester, 12 miles. The village contains an acad- emy, 3 churches and about 80 dwellings. The principal employment of the inhabitants is the manufacture of cot- ton and woollen cards ; of which a very large amount is annually made. Worcester, (6 miles,) is one of the oldest and most important towns in the state. It contains from four to five hundred houses, generally well built, a bank, a court house, jail, and several public buildings. A newspaper which was commenced by Isaiah Thomas some time pre- vious to the revolutionary war, is still published here, and is one of the oldest papers in the Union. Mr. Thomas was the author of an elaborate history of the art of print- ing, and continued to reside here until his decease, a few years since. He erected in the idllage, at a very consid- erable expense, ft, handsome building, for the reception of the library and cabinet of the American Antiquarian So- ciety, of which he waa president. The library consists BOSTON AND WORCESTER RAIL ROAD. 297 of about 6000 volumes, many of them of great antiquity, and the cabinet is also very valuable. The Blackstone Canal commences at this place, and extends to Providence, R. I. Length, 45 miles — expense rising of , West Grcenwi li, . 8 167 Ncw-Rochelle, , .. 11 178 Frog's Point, .... 8 186 Flushing Bay, . . . . 3 189 Hurl-Gate, 4 193 New-York, 8 2U1 ?KOVrDENCE TO NEW-TORE. 36S^ FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-YORK. By Steamboat, 211 miles. The following are intermediate distances : Miles. Pawtuxet, 5 Mount Hope, .... 8 13 Bristol, ,. 2 15 Newport, 10 25 Point Judith, 14 39 N. London Harbor, 35 74 Connecticut river,. 14 88 Falkner's Island, . 19 107 N. Haven Harbor, 12 119 Black Rock, ..... 19 138 Pawtuxet, 5 miles from Providence, is located at the mouth of the Pawtuxet river, and is a flourishing village of considerable trade. Mount Hope, 8 miles farther, is on the west shore of Mount Hope Bay. It is of a conical form, with an acute and nearly pointed apex, and rises about 390 feet above the water's edge. It is more particularly celebrated as the former residence of King Philip, a chief of the Nar- raganset tribe of Indians, possessed of uncommon intel- lect and military prowess. He was a great foe to the whites ; and after many sanguinary conflicts, was finally killed near this place by a renegado Indian of his own nation. Bristol, 2 miles farther, is a pleasant town, with a population of about 1500 inhabitants. The village is lo- cated on the east shore of the Narraganset bay, affording an excellent harbor for vessels of the largest dimensions. About two miles from the ferry there is an extensive 364 BRISTOL— NEWPORT. mine of anthracite coal, from which very considerable quantities are annually taken. After leaving Bristol, the boat successively passes Pa- tience and Prudence Islands, and reaches Newport in a distance of 8 miles from the latter. It is a large town, with an extcinsivc harbor, which is defen- ded by Forts Adams and Dumplings at its entrance, and by Fort Wolcott on Goit Island, opposite the town. There is also a small battery a mile above the town, called Fort Green. The village is about a xn-lc in length, and rises in a gentle acclivity from the harbor, giving it a fine appearance when approached from the water. It contains a state house, theatre, five banks, twelve churches, several manufactories, and a population of about 8000. Nevvport was possessed by the British for a considera- ble time during the revolutionary war. In 1778, under an expectation of aid from the French fleet, which had sailed into the harbor, an American force, of about 10,000 strong, connnandcd by Gen. SulHvan, and aided by Gen. Lafayette, made preparations for at- tacking the place. On the approach of the Americans, the Br'lish abandoned their outposts and retreated to their works within the town. These posts were im- mediately possessed by the Americans ; and the most flattering prospects existed, that the allied forces would be enabled to capture the entire British army. But the French admiral took offence at some of the movements of Gen. Si^livan, and refused a co-operation. While an attempt at reconciliation was going forward, a British fleet suddenly appeared off Newport, which induced the NEWPORT — POINT JUDITH, 365- French admiral, as a precautionary measure, to sail out of the harbor. A severe storm coming on, prevented a naval engagement ; and both fleets, being left in a shat- tered condition at the close of the tempest, retired— the British to New- York, and the French to Newport. Dur- ing this time, Gen. Sullivaii had laid siege to the town ; and though interrupted by the storm, in which his army suffered considerably, he had succeeded in annoying the enemy and keeping him within the lines of the village. On the return of the French fleet, another effort was made to induce the admiral to co-operate with the Ameri- cans ; but his ships had received so much injury in the gale, that he considered it necessary to repair to Boston,, pursuant to previous instructions from his government. Under these circumstances, Sullivan determined on rais- ing the seige. A retreat was effected in the night ; but on its being discovered the next morning, the Americans were pursued by the British to Quaker Ilili, v/hcre a sharp contest ensued, which resulted in the lo-s of be- tween 2 and 300 of each army. Sullivan aucrwards re- treated to Massachusetts. From its elegant and healthy situation, its proximity to the ocean, and the salubrity of its climate, Newport, for several years, has been a place of considerable resort in the summer months for invalids and parties of pleasure. Point Judith, 14 miles from Newport, a cape on the west side of the Narraganset bay, is generally passed with less pleasure than any other part of the route. The boat here frequently encounters the full swell of the ocean wave, subjecting passengers to sea-sickness and its kin» ^^6 PROVIDENCE TO NEW-YORK. dred evils; and to avoid tirs, the inland route, by the way of New-London, is generally preferred. Watch Hill Light House is passed in going 9 miles farther; whence to New-London Harbor is 26 miles. This is 4 miles from the city, noticed at p. 368. The mouth of the Connecticut river is 14 miles farther ; whence to the New-Haven harbor, 4 miles from the city (see p. 379) is 31 miles. Black Rock, a small village, is 19 miles farther; whence to Southport, is 5 miles ; thence to Oldwell, 8 ; thence to Stamford, 8 ; thence to West Greenwich, 8 ; thence to New Rochelle, 11 ; thence to Frog's Point, 8 ; thence to Flushing Bay, 3 ; thence to Hurl-Gate, (see p! 98,) 4 ; thence to New- York, (see pp.86 to 100) 8 miles. FROM PROVIDENCE TO JVEW-YORK. By rail rond and steamboat — 188 miles. INTERMEDIATE DISTANCES. By rail road. j^^^^^ Miles Thence to New. Stonington, 49 York, as in ta. By steamboat. ble of distan- N. London Harbor 12 61 ces, p. 363,.... 127 188 The rail-road mentioned at p. 360, is taken to Stonington, 49 miles. The village is incorporated ; contains a United States arsenal, several factories, a bank, an academy, 4 churches, and a population of about 4000. It has a good harbor, and is a place of considerable trade. The settlement of the place commenced as early as 1649. It had previously been a part of the territory of the Pequots, a powerful and warlike tribe of Indians. The early Enghsh settlers, in difFerent parts of Connecti- 8T0NINGT0N. 367 cut, had been frequently annoyed by this tribe ; and, in 1637, it became necessary to take efficient steps for their expulsion. An expedition was entrusted to Capt. Mason, who, with about 90 colonists and 200 Mohegan and Nar- raganset Indians, encamped on the night of the 26th of May, at a place call', d Porter's rocks, a short distance from the present village of Stonington, and about three miles from one of the principal forts of the Pequots, which was situated on the summit of a hill. Two hours before day, the little army was in motion ; and on ap. proaching the fort, it was found that the enemy, about 700 strong, were in a profound sleep, without their usual watch, having spent a portion of the previous night in singing, dancing, insulting the Enghsh, &.C., because their ships had passed by the harbor a few days previous. On a close approximation of Mason's men, a dog within the fort commenced barking, which awakened one of the Pequots ; who, perceiving the approach of the assailants, aroused his comrades from their slumbers. Mason im- mediately advanced, and through the apertures of the palisades poured in a fire, and then rushed in through a part of the fort slightly barricaded. Notwithstanding their confusion, the Pequots defended themselves with bravery ; but having but few other weapons than bows and anows, they were unable to withstand the assailants, who cut them down without mercy with their swords and bayonets. To render the victory complete. Mason or- dered their wigmans to be fired. The blaze soon spread in all directions, compelling the besieged to ascend the palisades ; from whence more than one hundred were shot down by the assailants who had then surrounded the GG 368 STONINGTON TO NEW-LONDON. fort. Others, attempting to break through the lines of the troops, were either shot or cut down, and several per- ished in tlie flames. The scene continued about an hour, when it was found that seventy wigwams had been de- stroycd, and that the ground was strewed with the bodies of between five and six hundred of the slain. Mason's loss was only two men killed and sixteen wounded. In August, 1814, a bombardment of Stonington took place from a British 74, a frigate, a sloop of war and an armed brig ; but with the aid of two 18 pounders and a four pounder, the inhabitants defended the place, pre- vented the landing of troops from barges, and finally .compelled the enemy to haul off, with his brig considera- bly shattered. For a notice of the residue of the route, see p. 366. FROM STONINGTON TO NEW-LONDON. 12 miles. The route is by stage, in a westerly direction, over a pleasant and handsomely cultivated country. New-Lo\do.\, located on the west bank of Thames river, within 3 miles of its mouth, is a city and port of en- try. It has the best harbor in Connecticut, and is de- fended by Forts Trumbull and Griswold. It contains a court house, two banks, six churches, and a population of about 4.')00 inhabitants. Many of the houses on the heights, back of the town, and a few in the city, are hand- some ; but the general appearance of the place is uninter- esting. New-London, like Stonington, was once within the territory of the Pequot Indians, and was settled at the NEW-LONDON. 369 same time. About 4 miles east of the city, on what is called Fort Hill, this nation had their strongest fortress. But slight remains of it, however, are now to be seen. In September, 1781, after the treason of Arnold, an ex- pedition was entrusted to his care against New-London. A strong detachment landed on both sides of the harbor at the mouth of the river. Arnold, who commanded in person the troops which landed on the west side, immedi- ately advanced against Fort Trumbull, an adjoining re- doubt, and New-London. These posts being untenable, were abandoned on his approach. Col. Eyerc, who com- manded the detachment which landed on the eastern side, proceeded to storm Fort Griswold, situate on Groton HUl. It was occupied by a garrison of 160 men, com- manded by Col. Lcdyavd, a part of whom had just evacu- ated the works on the opposite side of the river. Led- yard defended the fort until the British succeeded in en- tering the embrasures with charged bayonets. Further resistance being useless, Ledyard surrendered his sword to the British colonel ; who, in defiance of every rule of civilized warfare, plunged it into the bosom of the con- quered officer, and continued the carnage until the great- er part of the garrison was destroyed. Eyere, however, lost his own life in the affair, and 200 of his men were either killed or wounded. New-London was, at the same time, set on fire by the direction of Arnold, and most of its buildings and all the public stores deposited in the place consumed in the conflagration. Forts Griswold and Trumbull are still in tolerable pre- servation ; and were garrisoned by the government dur- ing the late war with Great Britain. 370 NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH. A steam boat leaves Norwich and New-London daily for New- York, and runs in conjunction with the Nor- wich and Worcester rail road, noticed at p. 372. Stages also leave New London at 8 A. M. and arrive at Hartford at 5 P. M. passing through Waterville, Montville, Salem, Colchester, Hebron, Marlborough, Glastenbury and East Hartford. Distance 47 miles — fare ^2. This is the most direct route ; but the traveller will find it interesting to take a trip up the Thames to Norwich ; whence a conveyance may be had to Hartford. as noticed hereafter. FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH, By steamhoaf — 14 miles. Previous to the settlement of New-London, in 1648, the Thames was called the Pequot river ; but at that pe- riod it received its present name. It rises in the Massa- paeug pond in Union, 3. miles N. E, of Hartford, pasrss into Massachusetts, re-enters Connecticut, and pursues a southerly course till it falls into Long Island Sound. It is navigable for large vessels no farther than Norwich. During the late war, while New-London was blockaded, the U. S. ships Macedonian, United States and Hornet, were moored in a cove above Massapeaug Point, and a small battery erected for their protection. MoHEGAN is on the west bank of the Thames, four miles south of Norwich, and is the residence of about 300 Mohegan Indians, the only remnant of that once power- ful tribe, who formerly ov/ned this section of country. On Hortofi's Hill, not far from this place, the lines of an old Indian fort can still be traced. NORWICH. 371 Trading Cove, about 1 mile farther, is a bay extend- ing a short distance into what was once the Indian coun- try, and derived its name from the traffic which was here carried on between the colonists and the Mohegans. The residence of Uncas, their sachem, and early friend of the whites, was near this cove, now the centre of the Indian reservation. NORWICH Is an incorporated city. It contains three compact settlements; of which Chelsea Landing, situate at the point of land between the Shetucket and Yantic rivers, is the principal. Its location is peculiarly romantic ; and it is a place of much enterprise and business. What is called the Town is 2 miles northwest of Chelsea, contain- ing the court house and some other public buildings ; and a third settlement is Bean Hill, in the western part of Norwich. The city contains a bank, 4 or 5 churches, and several manufacturing establishments. The Yantic Falls, i mile from Chelsea, are handsome, and afford fa- cilities for mills and manufactories. From a rock 70 or 80 feet in height, which overhangs the stream, tradition says a number of Narragansets once precipitated them- selves when pursued by the Mohegans, Settlements were commenced at Norwich as early as 1660. A part of the town was first conveyed to Thomas Leffingwell, a colonial militia officer, by the sachem Un- cas, in consideration of services rendered him in a war with a neighboring tribe. On an elevated bank north of what is called the Cove, and near the Yantic falls, is the burying ground of the gg2 372 NORWICH TO HARTFORD. royal family of the Mohegans, commonly called " the burying ground of the Uncases." Many of their graves are still designated by coarse stones, on some of which are English inscriptions. Uncas was buried here and many of his descendants ; but his family is now nearly or quite extinct. The Plain near the burying ground was the summer residence of the Mohegans, and is a most delightful spot. The Norwich and AVorcester Rail Road commen- ces at Norwich and extends to Worcester, Mass. distant 59 miles, (see p. 297,) affording to the inhabitants on the line a rapid and easy communication by steam with Boston or New-York. The traveller, indeed, who is de- sirous of seeing the interior of Massachusetts and Con- necticut, as well as the most important towns in either state, may, in a few hours reach Worcester ; from which point, if he has already visited Boston, he may proceed by rail road to Springfield on the Connecticut river, noticed at p. 299 ; thence proceed to Hartford by steamboat ; thence to New-Haven by rail road ; and thence to New- York by steamboat. Pursuing, however, the systematic route contemplated in these pages, we next subjoin that FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. Stages leave Norwich in the morning, and arrive at Hartford in the afternoon. Distance, 39 miles — fare ^2,50. The intermediate distances and places are as follow : Miles. Bozrah, 5 Lebanon, 4 9 Coventry, 12 21 Miles. Bolton, 4 25 East Hartford, 13 38 Hartford, 1 39 HARTFORD. 373 East Hartford is located on the east bank of the Connecticut river, directly opposite Hartford, with which it is connected by an elegant bridge, which, including the causeway, is nearly a mile long. HARTFORD. A settlement was commenced by the English at this place in 1634. The Dutch, from New-Netherlands, had previously established a trading house and a port at the place, for the purpose of carrying on a commerce with the Indians, and were disposed to prevent the English from participating in the traffic. But finding that this could not be effected, without a bloody contest, they abandoned the design. The charter which was originally granted to the col- onists of Connecticut, having been demanded by the English monarch in 1686, through the medium of an agent, it was regularly surrendered by the colonial legis- lature. This took place in an evening ; and while it re- mained on a table in a room where an agent and several British officers had assembled, the windows being open, on a preconcerted signal, the candles were extinguished by persons in the street, and the charter seized by a citi- zen in the room, and conveyed to a tree ; in the cavity of which it remained for several years. This tree is still standing ; and is known by the name of the Charter Oak. It is located in the lower part of the town, in the street running east from the south church, and is directly in front of the ancient mansion of the Wyllis family. The charter is still preserved in the office of the secretary of state. 374 HARTFORD. Hartford is located on the west bank of the Connectl- cut river, at the head of sloop navigation, and 50 miles from its rnouth. The city is handsomely laid out, and 1 contains a number of elegant buildings and private resi- dences. Among its public buildings, are a state house, arsenal, 5 banks, an academy, a female seminary, besides several select schools of an academical character, all of which are well conducted ; a college, an asylum for the deaf and dumb, a retreat for the insane, and 12 churches. It also contains a jail, on the modern penitentiary system, , which is already considered a model and may challenge ; coinparison with any in the United States. The popula- • lion of the city is about 12,000. Washington College is in Main street, in the south part of the city. It consists of two edifices ; one of which is 150 feet long and 4 stories high, and contains the rooms ■> of Ihe students. In the other is the chapel, recitation i rooms and library. It is in a prosperous condition. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is on Lord's Hill, one ; mile wc;^t of the city ; and was the first institution of the kind estabiirhed in the United States. The permanent fund of the institution, including a donation of land by congress, amounts to ^215,539, of which sum $80,000 i are available. The number of pupils is generally about 70, many of whom are supported by public and private charities. The Exchange Buildings, on the corner of Main and State streets, are deserving of notice as a specimen of good taste, and as ornamental to the city. The City Hall, at the corner of Temple and Market streets, just east of Main street, is a substantial and con- HARTFORD. 375 vcuient structure, and creditable to the munificence of llie inhabitants. It contains the Centre Market. The New Episcopal Church and the Orphan Asylum, in Washington street, occupy a prominent place. The latter is delightfully situated on a commanding eminence, and ranks in spaciousness, beauty and excellent manage- ment, with the most favored establishments of the kind in other cities. The Episcopal Church is a monument of Lberal public spirit guided by good taste, and is surpassed in design and execution by fev/, if any similar buildings in our country. The Hospital for the Insane, is a stone building, 150 feet long and 50 v/ide, 4 stories high, with wings of 3 stories. It is located a little south of the city. Hartford has undergone a sur|)rising change within a few years. Its streets have been greatly improved ; many of its old buildings have given place to new and elegant dwellings, and the whole appearance of the city exhibits an unusual degree of enterprise and prosperity. STEAMBOATS. A steamboat leaves Hartford for New- York daily, (Sundays excepted,) at 2 P. M. reaching New- York ear- ly the next morning ; and leaves New- York daily at 4 P. M. reaching Hartford tlie next morning before break- fast—fare ^a. Steamboats also pass daily between Hartford and Spnngfield, on the Connecticut river, distant 28 miles (noticed hereafter.) 376 HARTFORD. STAGES. To Boston. — Stages leave daily for Boston, passing through Ellington, Tolland, Willington, Ashford, Thomp- son, Douglass, Mendon, Medway, Dover and Brooklyne. Distance 110 miles. To Litchfield Ct., and Poughkeepsie, N. Y. — A stage leaves Hartford daily (Sundays excepted) at 11 A. M. and arrives at Litchfield the same afternoon, and Pough- keepsie the next day. To Hanover, N. H. (up Connecticut river.) — A stage leaves Hartford daily, (except Sundays) arrives at Brat- tleborough, Vt., the first day, and Hanover, N. H., the second — passing through East Windsor, Ct., Springfield, Northampton, Deerfield and Greenfield, Mass., Brattle, borough and Westminister, Vt., W^alpoleand Charlestown, N. H., Windsor and Hartford, Vt., to Hanover. [This line intersects the rail road line from Springfield to Bos- ton, and the daily stage for Saratoga Springs at Charles- town.] Distance from Hartford to Hanover, 152 miles — fare $7,25. To New-London. — A stage leaves Hartford at 7 A. M. and reaches New-London at 2 P. M. — Distance 47 miles — fare ^2. To Albany. — A stage leaves Hartford daily (Sundays excepted) at 10 P. M. and arrives at Albany the next af- ternoon. — Distance 96 miles — fare ^5. HARTFORD TO MIDDLETOWN. 377 FROM HARTFORD TO MIDDLETOWN — 15mileS. The route is by stage through Wethersfield and Rocky „ Hill. I Wethersfield is located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, 4 miles below Hartford. The soil, ri which is of the finest order, is principally devoted to the culture of onions ; of which large quantities are exported annually. The labor is principally performed by women and children. The penitentiary of the state is at this ' place. Rocky Hill, 3 miles ; a parish in the town of Wcth- [j ersfield, containing a lofty eminence, from which a rich and variegated prospect of the surrounding countrj^ is en- joyed. Six miles farther is a village, called Middletown Upper Houses ; from which place to the city of Middle- town is 2 miles. MIDDLETOWN Is a port of entry, and is handsomely located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, 31 miles from its I mouth. Among its public buildings are a court house, jail, alms-house, 2 banks, 7 churches and a university sus- tained by the Methodists. There are also several exten- sive manufactories of rifles, swords, buttons, ivory combs, v;oollen and cotton goods, &c. The population of the city is about SOOO. The V/csleyan University, founded in 1831, is an insti- tution of great promise, under the patronage of the Meth- odist Episcopal church. Its buildings are eligibly situa- ted, on a hill adjacent to the city, and command a fine view of the surrounding country. It possesses a valua- 378 HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN. ble library, cabinet of minerals, chemical and philosophical apparatus, &c. On the east bank of the Connecticut, opposite to Mid. dlelown, are several quarries of free stone, used for build- ing. Immediately below the city, the river turns abruptly to the south-east ; and passes between two lofty hills, forming what arc called the Narrows. Within these Narrows, on the south bank of the river, is a lead mine, which was used during the revolutionary war. It can be approached only in boats or by means of a foot path.* FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN 34 llliles. The route is by rail road as follovrs : Miles. Newington, 4 Worthington, .... 7 11 Meriden, 6 17 Miles. Wallingford, 4 21 North-Haven, 6 27 New-Haven, 7 34 The villages in the respective towns through which the I'oad passes being on elevated ground, while the val. leys and low grounds have necessarily been selected for the site of the road, no important settlements are seen until reaching *Cor tinning a course down the river, the steamboat successively passes Middle Haddam, Haddam, East Haddam, Essex or Pettipaug, and Saybrook, where the river enters Long Island Sound. The shores arc gencr- ally bold and rocky, and present but few objects of inter- est. Saybrouk was the first town settled on the river ; at which time (1635) a small fort was erected at the place. The town was originally granted to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook and others, and derived its name from these proprietors, Ya;e college was located here for a time, and afterwards removed to New-Haven. HEW-HAVEN. 379 NEW-HAVEN. This city, which is usually pronounced by travellers to be one of the handsomest towns in the Union, is located around a harbor which sets up about 4 miles from Long Island Sound, and is the semi-capital of the state. It is built on a large plain, encircled on all sides except those occupied by the water, by hills and lofty mountains, and is divided into two parts, called the old and new town- ships, in each of which is an open square. The houses are generally neat, and some arc very elegant. To each dwelling there is generally attached a garden, and fre- quently a beautiful yard in front. Added to which sev- eral of the streets are adorned with lofty trees, giving the whole a rural and most delightful appearance. Among the public buildings arc a state house, the college edifices, ; 6 churches, a court house, jail, 2 banks, a custom house and 3 or 4 academies. The population is between 12 and 14,000. The Public Square or Green, near the centre of the city, is an elegant spot, containing several acres, and is surrounded by stately elms. In the centre are three churches and the state house ; on the west side, the col- lege buildings ; and on the east side, fronting the state house, the Tontine Coffee House. Yale College was founded in 1701, and was named af- ter its early benefactor, Elihu Yale, governor of the East India Company. It was originally located at Killing. .worth; afterwards removed to Saybrook, {see p. 378;) and thence, in 1717, to New-Haven. The faculty is composed of a president, 10 professors, a librarian and 8 HH 380 NEW- HAVEN. tutors. The library consists of about 10,000 volumes; and the literary societies among the students have libra- ries amounting, collectively, to 5000 more. The cabinet of minerals is very extensive, and by far the most valua^ ble of any in the Union. The college buildings consist of four ^spacious edifices, each 4 stories high, 104 feet long and 40 wide, and each containing 32 rooms for stu- dents; two chapels, one containing a philosophical cham- ber ; a Lyceum, containing the library and recitation rooms ; and a handsome dining hall in the rear of the other buildings. Seven of these buildings stand in a line fronting the green, the Lycum occupying a central posi- tion ; and the whole, with the charming scenery around, form a most enchanting and elegant landscape. The medical institution fronting College street is connected with the college, and has a valuable anatomical museum. The number of students at Yale is generally from 450 to 500. The Burying Ground, containing several acres, is divided into parallelograms, which are subdivided for families. The ground is planted with trees, mostly wil- lows; and the white monuments, several of which are obelisks, seen through the foliage, with the taste and uni- formit}' every where discovered, give to the whole a most impressive and solemn appearance. The Tontine Coffee House is one of the best establish- ments of the kind in the U. S. It is located directly in front cf the stale house and college edifices, the public square intervening, commanding from its upper or fourth story a beautiful and extensive view of the city and the surrounding country. WEST ROCK — FARMINGTON CANAL. 381 West Rock is 2 miles north-west of New-Haven. It is the southern extremity of the east ridge of the Green Mountains, and is a perpendicular bluff fronting the south, 400 feet in height. The village of Hotchkisstovvn is at its foot. The cave in which the regicide judges, Whalley & Goffe, secreted themselves for three or four years, {see p. 293,) is on the summit of tlie rock, about a mile north of the bluff, 'i he cave is formed by the crev- ices between several large rocks, apparently thrown to- gether by some convulsion, and is entirely above ground. Near the top of one of the rocks is this inscription : " Op- position to tyrants is obedience to God." During the continuance of the regicides at this place, they were fur- nished daily with food by a family who resided near the foot of the mountain. East Rock is 2 miles north-east of New-Haven, and is the southern termination of the Mount Tom range of mountains- It is 370 feet high, and from its top a fine view is had of New-Haven, its harbor, the Sound and Long-Island. The Farmington Canal, which was originally com- menced at the north line of the state, terminates at New- Haven — distance 58 miles, lockage 218 feet. This canal has since been extended to Northampton, Mass. between 20 and 30 miles farther ; and a branch lias been con- structed from Farmington up the Farmington river, to New-Hartford, 15 miles. The towns bordering on the Sound, near New-Haven, are visited in the summer months by numerous invalids for the benefit of the sea breeze and a salubrious climate. Among these towns, Guilford, 15 miles east of New- 382 BRIDGEPORT FAIRFIELD. Haven, is generally preferred. It has two harbors, is a place of considerable trade, and is constantly supplied with the best of oysters, lobsters and fish, taken in and near the harbors. Steamboats ply between New-Haven and New- York daily, and the passage is generally performed in 8 or 9 hours. Fare $2. Stages leave New-Haven daily for Boston, Albany and New- York. Distance to Boston, 136 miles ; to Albany, 110 miles ; to New- York, 86 miles.* *This route is usually performed in 12 or 14 hours, and the intervening places and distances are as follow ; Miles. Stratford, 13 Bridgeport, 3 16 Fairfield, 5 21 Norwalk, 10 31 Miles. Stamford, 1 1 42 Greenwich, 6 48 Harisem, 30 78 New- York, 8 86 Bridgeport is handsomely situated on both banks of the Pughquonnuck river, which here empties into the Bridgeport harbor, communicating with Long-Island Sound, 3 miles below. The village contains a population of between 2 and 3000, and is destined by means of a rail road which is now in progress to West Stockbridgc, Mass. {see p. 299,) to become a place of importance. When finished, this road will afford a winter communi- cation, by steam, between NeM'-York and the city of Hud. son, 1:8 miles below Albany; and on the completion of the road from West Stockbridge to Springfield, a like communication in the interior to Boston. Fairfield 5 miles from Bridgeport, is a port of entry on Long Island Sound, containing a court house, acade- my, several churches, and a population of about 2000. It was on a low level piece of ground, which is seen on the left side of the road, about a mile and a half after leaving the village, that the remnant of the Pequot tribe of Indi- ans, after the destruction of their fort by Capt. Mason at Mystic, {see p. 366,) were either killed or captured. The battle was severe and bloodv, and some rehcs of arms NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 383 FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. A stage leaves New-Haven daily for Litchfield, pass- ing through Waterbury and Watertown — distance 38 miles. Passing West Rock, {see p. 381,) and proceeding thence for a considerable distance in a northerly direction, through a beautiful valley, having on its right a lofty rocky barrier, with rude perpendicular precipices. Beacon Mountain is reached in travelhng 14 miles from New- Haven. This mountain is a ridge of almost naked rocks stretching to the southwest. " The road, which is form- ed in the natural gap of the mountain, here winds through a bold gulf or defile, so narrow, that at one place only a single carriage can pass at once. On both sides, the cliffs are lofty, particularly on the left ; and on the riglit, a little distance from the road, they overhang in a frightful manner." Beyond this gap, the road turns more to the used in the contest are at this day occasionally found by the inhabilanis. Nor WALK is on the Sound, and is a pleasant village, containing an academy and 3 churches. West Chester. County, which is entered in a few miles after leaving Greenwich, and which was " neu- tral ground" during the revolutionary war, was selected bv Mr. Cooper, the novelist, as the principal scene of his '•"Spy." At HoRSENF.cK, 33 miles from N. York, the traveller is shown the steep, down which Gen. Putnam descended on horse-back during the revolution. At Harl.em, 8 miles from New-York, the road passes near the East river, affording the traveller a view of HcRL Gate. [See p. 98.) hh2 384 HTCIIFIELD. left, running along a rivulet ; and after three or four miles, on rising an eminence, the Naugatuck, a branch of the Housatonic river, is discovered. It runs through a deep and narrow gulf, which is seen from the road. Watertown, 26 miles from Neu^-Haven, is on a com- manding hill, and is a beautiful little village, containing two churches. Litchfield is on a handsome eminence, and is consid- ered one of the most pleasant villages in the state. The principal street extends more than a mile in length, and contains a collection of neat houses, adorned with gar- dens and court-yards. Among the public buildings are a court-house, ^ail, bank and two churches. Mount Tojn, near the south-west corner of this town, is 700 feet above the river at its base, and affords from its top an extensive prospect. The Great Pond in Litchfield, comprises an area of about 909 acres, is the largest in the state, and is a beau- tiful sheet of water, affording at its outlet a number of valuable mill sites. Mount Prospect, is a rocky, wood clad, elevated ridge, of two miles extent. From its summit an interesting and diversified view is presented of villages and lakes, and of a well cultivated, healthy country. From Litchfield, a stage may be taken daily, passing through East Goshen, Norfolk, Canaan, Sheffield, Great Barrington, West Stockbridge, Chatham, Nassau, Scho- dack and Greenbush to Albany, and reaching the latter place in about 24 hours. Distance 72 miles — fare $4. This is the most direct route, also, from Litchfield to Saratoga LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 385 Springs ; but, to make the tour of Ncw^England more complete, it is recommended to proceed from Litchfield to Hartford, and thence up the beautiful valley of the Connecticut river, which is variegated with villages and country seats, and presents some of the finest scenery on the continent. FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. A stage may be taken at Litchfield daily, except Sun- days, passing through Harwinton, Burlington and Farm- ington, and reaching Hartford in about 7 hours. Distance 30 miles— fare ^2. Harwinton is a small village, 7 miles from Litchfield, on the Naugatuck river. Burlington, 7 miles, Farmington, 6 miles. This is a pleasant village, loca- ted on the Farmington river, which, after leaving the vil- lage, takes a northerly course for 15 miles, where it is joined by the Salmon river. It then turns to the south- east, passing between lofty mountauis, and descends a cataract of 150 feet ; after which it is called the Wind- sor river, and joins the Connecticut 4 miles above Hart- ford. Farmington contains 3 churches and a population of between 2 and 3009. [For a notice of the Farming- ton canal, which passes through this place, see p. 381.] Hartford, 10 miles. {See p. 373.) 386 EAST WINDSOR — SUFFIELD. ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF THE CONNECTI- CUT RIVER. Steamboats run daily up the Connecticut river as far as Springfield, 28 miles from Hartford. In the stage route, on the east side of the river, the first village reach- cd is East Windsor, 8 miles from Hartford. Settlements were commenced at this place as well as at Hartford, in 1633. At East Windsor Hill, one of the most delightful localities in the whole valley of the Connecticut, the trav- eller passes the handsome buildings of the East Windsor Theological Seminary. This institution, which has been recently founded, is under the presidency of the Rev. Doct. Tyler, assisted by several professors, and is in a flourishing condition. Enfield, 10 miles farther. A canal has been construc- ted around the falls at this place, of sufficient dimensions to receive the largest class of canal boats. Its depth va- ries from four to twenty feet ; the average width, at the surface of the water, is about seventy feet, and its length five and a half miles. SuFFiELD, 1 mile from Enfield, on the west bank of the river, is a beautiful town. The village, which is on an eminence about a mile west of the river road, is compos, ed principally of one street, half a mile in extent. The houses, with their handsome gardens and yards, present a picturesque and elegant appearance. A sulphur spring, a mile or two southwest of the village, is a place of some resort by invalids. SOUTH HADLET FALLS — HATFIELD. 387 Springfield, 9 miles farther. {See p. 299.) South Hadley Falls, are 12 miles from Springfield. The river here descends in the distance of two and a half miles, 52 feet ; and on the cast side, commencing at South Hadley village, a canal has been constructed, cor- responding in extent with these falls, through which lum- her and the largest boats pass. Previous to reaching Northampton, the river, passes between Mount Tom on the south, and Mount Holyoke {see p. 292) on the north. North of the latter mountain, a most charming and extensive plain is presented, em, bracing many elegant villages and country seats. Northampton, 5 miles from South Hadley. {See p, 292.) Hadley, 2 miles east of Northampton. {See p. 293.) Hatfield, 5 miles north of Northampton, on the west side of the river, is a neat and venerable town, having been settled as esrly as 1658. In October, 1675, after the burning of Springfield, (.we ^. 299,) the Indians un- der Philip, flushed with their repeated successes, made an attack on Hatfield ; which was then defended by two companies, aided by a third, which came to their relief during the conflict. The Indians were about 700 strong, and made a furious assault upon the town in various di- rections, pillaging and burning several of the houses. But they were defeated, and compelled to seek safety in a precipitate flight. On the 30th of May of the following year, another at- tack was made upon Hatfield by 600 Indians. Twelve 388 MUDDY BROOK. unfortified buildings were immediately burnt ; but the others, which were pallisaded were defended by a few in- habitants. Part of the Indians then repaired to the fields, and attacked the men at their labor ; but 25 young men crossed the river from Hadley, and rushing upon the en- emy, killed several, and finally, with the aid of the inhab- itants, dispersed them. Muddy Brook, 9 miles from Hatfield, is a small vil- lage, deriving its name from a stream which passes through the place, bordered by a narrow morass. The place in 1675, and for some time subsequent, was called Bloody Brooh, in consequence of a battle which was fought with the Indians on the 18th of September of that year. Capt. Lothrop, who had been despatched with 80 men and several teams, to secure a quantity of wheat in Deerficld, two or three miles farther north, was surprised on his return through this place, by a party of 700 Indi- ans, who had secretly watched his movements, and who lay in ambush awaiting his arrival. He had no sooner crossed the small stream above mentioned, than they rushed upon him, pouring in such a deadly fire as to pro- duce complete discomfiture. Lothrop and his men fled ; but being pursued and overtaken at all points, they re- solved to sell their lives in a vigorous struggle. They ac- cordingly posted themselves behind the neighboring trees ; when tlic conflict became a trial of skill in sharp shoot- ing. At length the struggle terminated in the annihila- tion of nearly the whole of the English. Lothrop was killed in the early part of the action ; and his loss, inclu- ding teamsters, amounted to ninety. The troops at Deer- field, under Captain Moseley, hearing the musketry, has- MUDDY BROOK — DEERFIELO. 389 tened to the scene of combat, and arrived soon after its clcse. They found the Indians stripping the slain. Mose- ly improving the favorable opportunity, rushed upon them and cut them down in all directions, driving the remain- der into the adjacent swamps. The next morning it was found tliat a few Indians had returned to the field of battle for the purpose of plunder ; but they were soon dis- persed. Though the loss of the enemy on the previous day was estimated at about 100, the engagement was, neverthe- less, more disastrous in its consequences to the English. The destruction of ninety valuable men, the flower of a thinly scattered population, was calculated to produce much despondency, and occasion the most serious appre- hensions for the safety of the remaining colonists. The place where this battle was fought is near the centre of the village, about 30 rods south of the church. The bridge over the stream is located at the place where Lothrop crossed. Deerfield, 3 miles from Muddy Brook, and 17 miles north of Northampton, is a handsome village on the west bank of the Connecticut river. It is in the midst of a very fertile and beautiful comjtry, presenting a succession of rich and highly cultivated farms. The town was among the early settlements on the river ; and, more than any other place, was the theatre of Indian warfare. In September, 1675, an attack was made on the place, one man killed, and several houses reduced to ashes. For about 20 years subseo^uent to this, owing to repeated in- cursions of the savages, the inhabitants were often com- B90 DEERFIELO. pellcd to abandon their dwellings and seek a temporary as3dum in the neighboring towns. During the French wars under William and Anne, however, they maintained their ground until 1704 ; made many improvements and enclosed the centre of the village by an extensive but imperfect pallisaded work. This fortification was attack- ed by about 350 French and Indians, in the month of February of that year. They had secretly taken a po- sition two miles north of the village on the evening of the 9lh ; whence they cautiously proceeded to the fort the next morning before day. There being no sentinels posted, the fortification was easily entered, and the work of destruction commenced ere the inliabitants had arous- ed from their slumbers. A feeble resistance, only, could be made. All the houses, except one, within the pali- sades, were burnt ; between 40 and 50 of the inhabitants were killed, and 112, including women and children, made prisoners. In the drear of winter, with a scanty supply of provisions, and v;ith little clothing, the unfortu- nate captives were compelled to take up their line of march for Canada. Mr. Williams, the clergyman of the place, and his family, were of the number. His wife* was murdered in two or three days after commencing the excursion ; and sixteen others either died or were massa- cred before reaching the Province. Most of those w^ho survived, after remaining in captivity for some time, were * She was afterwards with her husband, interred in the church-yard at Deerfield, and marble slabs placed over their graves. DEERFIELD — TURNER^S FALLS. 391 rpdeemed. A daughter of Mr. Williams, however, who .1 married an Indian chief, refused to return. She cs. .^ lined the habiliment of a savage, and died in Canada some years afterwards. Several of her descendants are still living there. The house which survived the confla fixation at Deer- field is still standing. It is in a tolerable state of preser- vation, and exhibits to this day the perforation made in the door by tomahawks, as well as the marks of balls in the interior. One of these marks is ?hown as having been made by a ball which killed a female in the house ; and in one of the timbers a bullet is seen, which has nev- er been extracted. Greenfield, 4 miles from Deerfield, is a large and pleasant village, on the west side of the river ; from which it is distant 2 miles. It contains a courthouse, jail, bank and 3 churches. It is a ccntril position for the trade of t'lr- surrounding country, and is a place of wealth and en- frrprisc. Turner's Falls, on the Connecticut river, are 3 miles from Greenfield, in a north-easterly direction. The road taken in visiting them is east of the ordinary stage route ; and it is customary therefore, after an excursion to the falls, to return to Greenfield. The route is principally over the ground taken by Capt. Turner, in his attack on the Indians in 1676. The fall is between forty and fifty feet ; but by the erection of a dam for the accommodation of a canal, the cataract has lost much of its original wild- ness. The Indians, amounting to several himdreds, having taken a position on elevated ground, on the west bank of II 392 turner's falls. the river at the head of the fall, it was deemed important to dislodge them. This service was undertaken by Capt. Turner, at the head of about 160 mounted troops. He left Hatfield on the 17th of May, 1676, and reached within half a mile of the Indian encampment before day the next morning without discovery. Here his men left their horses, and by a rapid march, reached the camp be- fore the Indians awoke from their slumbers. A deadly and destructive fire was immediately commenced. Be- lieving it to proceed from their ancient and powerful ene- my the Mohawks, many of the Indians fled to the river, and leaped into their canoes ; but, in attempting to cross, they were mostly shot or precipitated over the cataract. Others fled to the rocks of the river bank, where they were cut down without resistance ; and few escaped the victorious arms of the assailants. One hundred were left dead on the field ; one hundred and forty were seen to descend the cataract ; and their whole loss was after- wards ascertained to have been 300. Turner lost but one man. In his retreat he was less fortunate. He was attacked by other parties of Indians on the route — his men divi- ded — himself killed ; and the Joss of his party, before they reached Hatfield, amounted to between 30 and 40. Capt. T. is supposed to have fallen in what is called Greenfield Meadow, at the mouth of a small stream, on which a mill now stands ; as his body was afterwards found at that place by a scouting party of the English. Bernardstown, 5 miles north of Greenfield. VERNON— CHARLESTOWN. 393 Vernon, 6 miles ; the first town reached in entering the state of Vermont. Fort Dummer, built to protect the inhabitants against the Indians, was located at this place. Guilford, 5 miles. Here are two slate quarries and several mills and manufactories. Brattleborough, 6 miles, a flourishing village, is lo- cated on the west bank of the Connecticut river ; over which their is a permanent bridge. White stone creek also passes through the place, affording a number of good mill sites. The village contains a bank, the most exten- siue printing establishment in the state, and several man- ufactories. Stages pass daily between this place and. Boston, Hartford, Albany and Hanover. Dummerston, 5 miles. Putney, 5 miles. Westminster, 5 miles. The first newspaper printed in Vermont was issued from a press at this place ; though it was discontinued several years since for want of pat- ronage. The village is located on a beautiful plain on the west bank of the Connecticut ; but it has not improved much within the last twenty years. Walpole, N. H. to which a bridge leads, is on the op- posite side of the river, and is noticed at page 303. Bellows Falls, on the Vermont side, 4 miles from Walpole. {See p. 302.) Proceeding up the river over a beautiful plain, Charlestown, N. H. is reached in travelling 8 miles from Bellows Falls. It is handsomely located on the east side of the river, and is a neat village, containing a coUrt house, jail and bank. 394 CHARLESTOWN. A fort was built for the defence of this place in 1743, on rising ground south of tlic church, oi-or which the pre- sent street passes. In March, 1747, while the fort was occupied by Capt. Stevens and tliirty men, a fuiious as- sault was made upon it by a large body of Frc:ich and Indians, under the command of M. Debeline. The fort being composed of materials which were combustible, the enemy attempted its destruction by setting a log house and the fences to the windward on fire. To guard against a conflagration, the besieged, through great ex- ertions, succeeded in making several subterranean pas- sages under the parapet, with an opening at the top of each. From tl:cse passages, vvhich were deep enough to protect the men from the enemy's shot, water, taken from a well within the fort, was thrown upon the parapet, and the plan of the enemy frustrated. A sort of mantelet^ loaded with dry faggots, set on fire, was then forced to- wards the fort, accompanied with flaming arrows ; but all to no purpose. Stevens maintained his position, continu. ed a fire upon the enemy whenever he presented himself, and refused all propositions of a surrender. After an as- sault of three days, and suffering severely in the loss of his men, Debeline withdrew from the siege. None of Ste- vens' men were killed, and but two wounded. Fortius bravo defence. Sir Charles Knowles, comman- dant of a naval force then in Boston harbor, sent Captain Stevens an elegant sword. The town was subsequently namod in honor of Sir Charles. From Charlestown a stage may be taken daily for Sar- atoga Springs, passing through Chester, Manchester, &.c.; SPRINGFIELD HANOVER. 395 or for Boston, passing through Walpole, Keene, &e. {See l>. 30 i to 305.) Springfield, Vt. on the west side of the river, 5 miles from CJiarlestown. Weathersfield, 6 miles ; a fine agricultural town- ship. Jarvis' farm, at what is termed Weathersfield Bow (a turn in the river) is considered one of the best in Ver= mont. Windsor, 7 miles. (See p. 310.) Hartland, 7 miles. IIartfoud, 7 miles. There arc two handsome villages in this town ; one near the junction of the While river, and the other near the junction of the Queechy river with the Connecticut, In both there are several mills and manufactories. From Hartford the river is crossed lo Hanover, (noticed at p. 311,) from which place a stage may be taken daily for Burlington, Vt. or Boston. FI ft'IS. s^ J 928