Class Book. COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT ^£^5^^^^^^<^^^^<^^ ^S- ^^v^r^vS HANDY GUIDE TO THE Southeastern States INCLUDING FLORIDA GEORGIA,rHs CAROLINAS #/yF GULr COAST I RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY, Publishers. Sk I Seaboard Air Line ■ ■■■ ■■■ BETWEEN THE -" South o U d (Oi U X I- Choice of Routes E. St. John, H. W. B. Glover, T. J. Anderson, Vice Pres't. Traffic Manager. Gen'l Pass'r A^. GENERAL OFFICES. PORTSMOUTH, VA. 5? , -I oz (/)0 , Plant S ystem PERFECT PASSENGER SERVICE REACHING MOST IMPORTANT POINTS IN Alabama, Florida, South Carolina, Cuba, and Georgia, Nova Scotia THE THREE GREAT FLORIDA WEST COAST HOTELS OWNED AND OPERATED BY THE PLANT SYSTEM. Literature on Florida and Cuba mailed on application. B. W. WRENN, Passenger Traffic Manager, SAVANNAH, GA, -^THE OXFORD^ .WASHINGTON, D. C, and Ncw?ork*Ayt:N.W. H. P. MARSHALL & CO., PrOpS. EUROPEAN plan: ROOMS $1.00 PER DAY AND UPWARDS. AMERICAN plan: $2.50 PER DAY AND UPWARDS. The most centrally located and liberally managed hotel in the city. This Hotel has recently been thoroughly renovated and refitted; is centrally located, but one square from the United States Treasury, two squares from the White House, and exceedingly convenient and accessible to the business and shopping part of the city, depots, and steamboat landings, and also all the Government Buildings, by three lines of street cars passing the door. H. P. MARSHALL & CO., Proprietors. : Hotel Vendome ^ Pennsylvania Ave., ^ orner Third Street, N. W. WASHINGTON, D. C. The central location of this new hotel, directly opposite the Government's beautiful Botanical Gardens, and about midway be- tween the two railroad stations, makes it especially desirable for permanent or transient visitors to Washington. From it all public buildings and points of interest are conveniently accessible. It is fully equipped with the latest appliances, including an electric elevator, steam heat, electric lighting, improved fire escapes, etc. The interior decorations and furniture are of the newest designs, and its cuisine is tmsurpassed, " It is conducted upon both American and European plans, and our prices have been arranged to conform to the times. AMERICAN plan: $2.00 to $3.00 Per Day. EUROPEAN plan: $1.00 Per Day and Upward. ROBERT P. EMERSON. Maps and Guides TO All of the Principal Cities AND EVERY Country in the World. Road Maps FOR Driving, Wheeling, or Walking. Globes, Map Racks, Spring Map Rollers, Wall and Pocket Maps, Historical Maps, Classical, Biblical, Historical, Anatomical, Astronomical, Physical, and General Atlases of all kinds kept in stock. Address Rand, MoNally & Co., Tvlap Ptablistiers and Kngravers, 160 to 174 Adams Street, CHICAGO. 6i East Ninth Street, near Broadway, NEW YORK. Tie St. DeDls Broadway and Eleventh Street, opposite i^^y^ YORK Grace Church. European Plan. Rooms $i per Day and Upward. In a modest and unobtrusive way there are few better conducted hotels in the metropolis than the St. Denis. The great popularity it has acquired can readily be traced to its unique location, its homelike atmosphere, the peculiar excellence of its cuisine and service, and its very moderate prices. WILLIAM TAYLOR & SON. Rand, McNally & Co.'s HANDY GUIDE TO THE Southeastern States INCLUDING if-, u >X FLORIDA GEORGIA, THE CAROLINAS, AND THE GULF COAST. WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. CHICAGO ANTTWEW YORK: Rand, McNally & Company, Publishers. 1896. WHEN IN NEW YORK STOP AT THE WESTMINSTER HOTEL SIXTEENTH STREET AND IRVING PLACE (one block east of union square.) SITUATED IN THE HEART OF THE SHOPPING AND AMUSE- MENT DISTRICTS, ONLY ONE BLOCK FROM BROADWAY AT UNION SQUARE, IN THE QUIET, ARISTOCRATIC NEIGHBORHOOD OF GRAMERCY PARK. "a HOTEL OF ESTABLISHED REPUTATION, WITH A CUISINE OF NOTED EXCELLENCE. UNDER LIBERAL MANAGEMENT." AMERICAN PLAN. RATES FROM $3.50 PER DAY UPWARD. E. N. ANABLE, Proprietor. Copyright, 1895, by Rand, McNally & Co. CONTENTS. PAGE OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES 7 Route i.— Clyde Line, New York to Charleston and Florida 7 The City of Charleston lo Railways out of Charleston; Summerville 14 Clyde Line Steamships, Charleston to Jacksonville 15 Route 2.— Ocean Steamship Line to Savannah 17 Railroad Routes from Savannah 21 ROUTE 3.— Mallory Lines to Florida and Texas *... 22 Route 4.— Brunswick to Fernandma, through the Sounds... '.. 26 Route 5.— Cromwell Line to New Orleans 30 ROUTE 6.— Boston, Providence, and Baltimore to the South 30 Route 7.— Old Dominion Line, New York to Norfolk 31 Route 8.— " Bay Line " Route, Baltimore and Norfolk 35 Route 9.— Washington and Norfolk steamboats 36 RAILROAD ROUTES EAST OF THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS 37 Route 10.— Cape Charles Route to Norfolk 37 Route h. — Routes from Norfolk or Portsinouth 37 Route 12.— Seaboard Air Line 40 Route 12a.— Raleigh to Greensboro 42 Route 13. — Atlantic Coast Line 43 Route 13a.— To Goldsboro and Wilmington; Wilmington 44 Wilson to Florence, S. C 46 Route 13b. — Florence to Augusta, Atlanta, and Macon.. 46 Florence to Jacksonville and New Orleans,. 40 Route 13c.— To Beaufort and Port Royal 49 Route 13d. — Waycross to Jacksonville 51 Route 136.— Waycross to Montgomery, etc 51 Route 14. — New Florida Short Line 53 Route 15.— Southern Railway, Piedmont Air Line 55 Route 15a.— Salisbury to Asheville and Morristown 59 Salisbury to Atlanta 66 Route 16.— The Shenandoah Valley Route 70 Hagerstown to Roanoke .. 70 Crab-tree Falls and the Natural Bridge 75 Route i6a.— Norfolk to Roanoke. 77 Roanoke to Bristol, Tenn 79 Bristol to Chattanooga 80 WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES 86 Through Routes from Chicago and St. Louis to Florida and New Orleans... 86 A Sketch of the Civil War in the West 86 Route 17.— Jellico Route 91 Route 18.— Queen & Crescent Line to Chattanooga 92 Route 19.— Lookout Mountain Route 93 Route 20.— Memphis to Chattanooga 96 Chattanooga, Chickamauga, and Lookout Mountain 100 The Chattanooga Campaign of 1863 106 Missionary Ridge and Chickamauga Park no (3) 4 CONTENTS. PAGE RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA 113 Route 21.— Chattanooga to Savannah 113 Sherman's Atlanta Campaign 115 The City of Atlanta 119 Railroads at Atlanta 121 Sherman's March to the Sea 124 ■ Route 22.— Southern Railway, Chattanooga to Brunswick, Ga 125 Route 23. — Suwannee River or Tifton Route _ - 128 Route 24.— Atlanta to Birmingham, Memphis, and Greenville, Miss. 129 Route 25.— Atlanta to New Orleans 130 Route 26.— Chattanooga to Central Alabama 130 FLORIDA - -- 133 Jacksonville and the St. Johns River 133 The City of Jacksonville. 133 The St. Jolins River. 139 The East Coast of Florida 152 Jacksonville to St. Augustine 152 History of St. Augustine . 153 Places of Interest in St. Augustine 160 St. Augustine to Bay Biscayne 171 South Florida 185 The Tampa District 195 The Florida Keys and Cuba 199 The Pinellas Peninsula 201 The Lake District 206 Jacksonville to Cedar Keys 211 Suwannee Valley and West Florida 213 ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST..... 220 Route 27.— Queen & Crescent Line, Chattanooga to New Orleans and Shreveport 220 Route 28.— Louisville & Nashville Railroad to Mobile and New Orleans 224 The Battle of Nashville 225 Louisville & Nashville Route , 228 Route 29.— Mobile & Ohio Railroad 236 Route 30.— Illinois Central Railroad, Chicago and St. Louis to New Orleans 238 Route 31.— Yazoo Route 241 Route 32.— Kansas City and Memphis to Florida 242 A PREFATORY NOTE. This volume, of the series of Rand, McNally & Co.'s American guide books, deals with the southeastern part of the United States, ifrom Virginia and Tennessee to the Mississippi River, with especial attention to Florida. This is a region not only of great industrial and social attractiveness and of constantly increasing prosperity, but having a climate, and the means for health and pleasure, which induce a large and steadily enlarging migration from the North in winter. To its mountainous northern borders, on the other hand, the citizens of towns upon the coast and lowlands resort in summer to escape the heat, or to renew their health at the springs that abound along the Blue Ridge and Alleghanian ranges. The editor has considered this region by following its main through lines of transportation, first — for convenience sake — the ocean routes between the Northern and Southern seaports, and then the inland routes, proceeding from east to west. He has endeavored to describe the most noteworthy features of scener)^ industries, sport, and history along each of these lines, succinctly, accurately, and impartially, and by cross-references back and forth to complete the account of every district without needless repetition. As the wants of the pleasure traveler and health seeker have been especially in view, the most attention has been paid to places w^hither such travelers resort for amusement or benefit, and care has been taken to present them in the most candid and helpful light, saying little or nothing about that which is deemed worth little attention. Certain places or objects of particular importance or interest have been noted in black-faced type, and those of less importance in italics. A similar custom has been followed in regard to hotels, and here the editor has been very careful, preferring to err upon the safe side, if at all. The rates given for hotels are the lowest terms by the day. In all the larger hotels superior accommodations by the day would cost more, but everywhere cheaper terms may be made by the week or month. No attempt has been made to give the running time of railroad trains or steamboats, for which local time tables must be consulted. It is, perhaps, needless to add that nothing herein has been written or paid for as a disguised advertisement; but the attention of readers is called to the proper advertisements accompanying the text, which contain additional information as to several excellent routes of travel and places of entertainment. (5) T HE SHOREHAM , Washington, D. C American and European Plans. ABSOLUTELY FIREPROOF. Within five minutes' walk of the Executive Mansion, Treasur}/ War, Navy, and State Departments. JOHN T. DEVINE. I. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. Route 1.— Clyde Line, New York to Charleston and Florida. The great ocean steamships of the Clyde Steamship Company nake trips thrice a week in winter, and twice a week in summer, oetween New York and Jacksonville, Fla. , calling at Charleston, S. C. The fleet consists of the "Algonquin," "Iroquois," "Comanche," Cherokee," " Seminole," " Yemassee," and " Delaware." The three first named are the largest and finest. All are fitted with every mod- ern improvement, electric lights and bells, bath-rooms, and smoking- i-ooms. There is a plentiful amount of deck-rooni and an unusual capacity of inclosed saloons, so that the voyage can be made under the most pleasant circumstances. All first-class tickets include berth knd meals, and the table is admirably supplied. Second-cabin (or intermediate) and steerage accommodations are also provided at reduced rates. The steamers leave New York (Monday, Wednesday, Friday, 3.00 p. m.) from Pier 29, East River, under the Brooklyn Bridge (Franklin Sq. station. El. Ry.), and reach Charleston (600 m.) in about fifty hours, and Jacksonville twenty-four to twenty-eight hours later. Returning steamers leave Jacksonville twice a week (Sunday, Thursday) in summer, and tri-weekly (Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday) in winter, at high tide. They stop at Charleston several hours on the next morning, and usually reach New York late in the evening of the second succeeding day. Through tickets are sold from New York and New England cities to all points in the South and Southwest, and round-trip tickets at a reduced rate. The Voyage begins with the passage down New York harbor to The Narrows, where the Staten Island shore, with Fort Wads- worth on the right, and the shore of South Brooklyn, with Fort cn 8 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Hamilton on the left, approach one another and separate the Upper from the Lower Bay. The round, brown fort in the water on the left of The Narrows is Fort Lafayette, built in 1812, and famous as a military prison during the Civil War. As the expanse of the Lower Bay spreads right and left, the long row of hotels and amusement places of South Beach is seen on the Staten Island shore, and on the left the houses of the Gravesend and Bath Beach shores. The two small islands ahead are devoted to quarantine patients treated for contagious diseases, and far beyond is seen the shore of New Jersey. The course sweeps slowly to the left until the open ocean becomes visible, and the ship passes out past Sandy Hook, with the pleasure villages of Coney Island, Brighton, and Manhattan beaches in plain view on the left. Steering outside of Scotland lightship, near w^here the international yacht races are run, the prow is pointed" south , and all the evening the passenger is amused by the brilliantly lighted New Jersey shore, from Long Branch down past Asbury Park, almost to Barnegat. In the morning the ship is out of sight of land and headed for Cape Hatteras, whose lighthouse and low shore are sighted at dusk. Glimpses are caught next day of the Carolina coast, the lighthouses at Cape Lookout (entrance to New Berne, N. C.), and Cape Fear (near Wilmington, N. C), and, if circumstances and the tide are favor- able, the bar off Charleston harbor is reached in time to croPS it and make a safe trip up the tortuous channel to the city before dark; otherwise the ship anchors until daylight. Charleston Harbor. — The steamer follows carefully the excavated passage through the dangerous bar, nineteen feet deep at mean high tide, between the stone jetties that reach out from the shores, and, by directing the tidal currents, help to keep the channel clear from shifting sands and silt. The shore on the right (north) is Sullivan's Island, and is dotted with summer residences, hotels, and bathing places, forming farther westward the village of Moultrieville. The southern shore is formed by the sand dunes of Moi-ris Island. Here the Con- federate troops, during the Civil War, erected batteries and fortifica- tions, notably Fort Wagner, just south of the jetty on the left, and Battery Gregg, opposite Fort Sumter, from which they were driven- during the summer of 1863 by the Federal soldiers. But Sullivan's Island has had quite as lively a history. A palmetto fort, styled Sullivan, on the western end of the island, was attacked by Clinton's troops in 1776 with no success, as the spongy palmetto wood resisted the cannon-balls. The fort was afterward rebuilt in more formal style, named after Col. William Moultrie, who had commanded it at the battle, and was garrisoned until the hostilities of i860; this Fort Moul- OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 9 trie now appears on the right, amid clustering white houses, as a low, red wall partly hidden by gleaming sand dunes. The voyager should next turn his attention to Fort Sumter, a short distance ahead on the left. This famous fortress, where the first shot at the country's flag was fired by the Secessionists of 1861 , is founded ujDon an artificial island, composed of rocks mainly brought from the North as ballast in cotton ships. In 1846 the foundations were barely above the water, land at the beginning of the Civil War the brick walls, 40 feet high land 8 feet thick, were scarcely completed. At present, turf -covered j earthworks round up from the salient angles of the walls, which have been rebuilt, but only a few guns peer from between them. One of these elevations bears a lighthouse, and another the keeper's cottage, but there is no garrison. Maj. Robert Anderson was in charge of the Charleston defenses in i860, and had made repeated requests to Congress for their proper Irenewal, but they were unheeded; and hearing the threats of seces- sion at Charleston, he spiked the guns of Fort Moultrie and secretly j moved his garrison to the stronger fortress. Fort Sumter. The steamer '"Star of the West," sent to reinforce Fort Sumter, was driven back by the batteries on Morris Island, which had been promptly erected by Charlestonians after Anderson's change of base, and from Fort Moultrie, then in the hands of the Confederates. Anderson consid- ered this firing at a vessel bearing the United vStates flag an act of war, and was much angered by it, but was obliged by his orders from the War Department to refrain from replying to the shots, and from preventing the erection of battery after battery around his posi^ tion. Several States were hovering on the edge of secession, and it was decided by those which had already thrown themselves out of the Union, to conclude matters by subduing Fort Sumter, whose commander had pluckily refused to surrender his force. At last, hearing that two ships were trying to cross the bar in order to aid it, firing was commenced from the Confederate batteries, which con- tinued until the fort was nearly demolished, and the garrison, almost starved out, but not seriously injured by the bombardment, was com- pelled to evacuate the fort (April 14, 1861), and was permitted to sail for New York, carrying the flag with them. The War of Secession broke out instantly, and the Confederates occupied the fort until it was further knocked to pieces (1863) by Gillmore's volleys. Beyond Sumter, a long point reaches out from James Island, on the south, terminating in an old earthwork (Fort Johnston) now occupied by the quarantine station. This point was fortified in early Colonial times, and its officer had a royal commission to stop all vessels upon which he suspected dangerous diseases. It was the office and store yard of the engineers who built Fort Sumter, and later formed a part of the Confederate works. Opposite it, on the northern shore, and nearer the city, a point of the mainland juts 10 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. out, with the village of Mount Pleasant, and a little beyond it is Shute's Folly Island, the site of Castle Pinckney, a circular brick Revolutionary fort, the top of which is in ruins, and which is partly hidden by small houses. One can now see distinctly the foremost houses of the city, the graceful steeples of St. Michael's and St. Philip's churches, and at the right the noble Custom House of white marble, like a symmetrical Roman-Corinthian temple, that dominates the shore line. Excursions About the Harbor. — A steamer plies between Charles- ton and Sullivan's Island several times a day, stopping at Fort Sum- ter, Moultrie ville, and Mount Pleasant, the latter being summer- resorts and bathing-places on the north shore of the bay. In winter steamboats furnish regular transportation to Magnolia Gardens, a few miles above Charleston on Ashley River. These gardens, the ancient home of the Drayton family, are noted for their live oaks, loaded with trailing moss {Tzllandsia, which is not a true moss, in any sense of the word, but is an epiphytic member of the pineapple family), several being so large that seven persons can barely encircle each tree with outstretched arms. But the gardens are still more renowned for their gigantic camellia trees, and for the masses of azaleas of every tint, the bushes being often twenty-five feet through, that blaze along the walks. Ashley Hill, the home of Com- modore Gillam, a naval hero of the Revolution, is between the gar- dens and the city; and above them are many places of great roman- tic and historical interest, mentioned as near Summerville (p. 14), a pleasure resort (22 m. north by rail). The City of Charleston. Situation and History. — The city of Charleston (pop., 55,000; Charleston Hotel, special rates; St. Charles, $3; Osceola, $2; New Pavilion, $1.50) is the largest city in South Carolina, and one of the most important seaports of the Southern coast. It occupies a pen- insula lying nearly north and south between Cooper River, on the east, and Ashley River, on the west, which join to form the harbor. English colonists, coming from Port Royal, started a settlement on Ashley River in 1670, but 1680 found them in their present situation, on what was then called Oyster Point. The new town was named in honor of Charles II. By 1690 a number of Huguenots had joined the colony, and subsequent arrivals from other nations swelled their num- bers. The Charlestonians flourished and repelled a combined attack of Spanish and French in 1706, one by Sir Henry Clinton and Sir \ Peter Parker in 1776, and another by General Prevost three years later, but the place was finally captured by Clinton in 1780, only to be evacuated by the British troops in 1782. Charleston has always been proud of the fact that it was never taken during the Civil War. The federal Admiral Dupont tried The South Carolina & Georgia Railroad IS THE SHORTEST AND QUICKEST ROUTE BETWEEN CHARLESTON and Atlanta Spartanburg, Saluda, Hendersonville, Hot Springs (N. C), Walhalla, Waterloo, Weavers, Shelby, Tryon, Flat Rock, Asheville, Greenville, Seneca, Marion, Rutherfordton, Blacksburg, Chattanooga, New Orleans, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Marietta, Montgomery, Nashville, Chicago, Kansas City. DO\JBL.E BETWEEN T-xTT-TT v> Augusta, Charleston, ^ Columbia, Aiken, and TRHINS Summerville. The only Southern Line operating WAGNER PALACE, BUFFET SLEEPING, and DRAWING-ROOM CARS. L. A. EMERSON, Traffic Manager. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 11 to pass the batteries at the entrance to the harbor (1863), but the mon- itor " Weehawken," leading the fleet, got entangled among the obstructions scattered about the channel, became a target for the enemy's batteries, and after some hard fighting the fleet was with- drawn by Dupont, the " Keokuk " afterward sinking in an inlet. Capture of the Charleston Forts. — Gen. Q. A. Gillmore was assigned to the command of the National Department of the South (June, 1S63), and devised a plan for using land forces to sub- due Fort Wagner while the monitors attacked Sumter. A masked battery w^as erected on Folly Island south of Morris Island. Dupont, who had prevented the Confederates from further for- tification of Morris Island, was superseded by Admiral Dahlgren. When all was prepared, several military excursions were made inland to divert the attention of the Charlestonians, and on July 13, 1863, a strong force crossed the channel between Folly and Morris islands before dawn, and captured the powerful outworks on the southern end of the latter. At the same time the masked bat- teries began to speak, and Dahlgren and Gillmore bombarded Fort Wagner effectively, but repeated assaults failed to take it. The young Colonel Shaw was killed in this fight, and buried with con- tempt by the garrison in a trench beneath the dead of the colored regiment he had commanded. Finally Gillmore settled down to a siege of the forts. A 200-pound Parrott gun, the "swamp angel," was placed on piles in a marsh between Morris and James islands, and (August 17th) another attack was made on the various forts, which resulted in their evacuation. Sumter was knocked to pieces, and Gillmore occasionally bombarded Charleston, until nearly the end of the year, but as no fleet appeared to take possession of the city, which was no longer of any strategic importance, he ceased his cannonade. On February 18, 1865, the Confederate commander at Charleston, hearing of Sherman's capture of Columbia, fired all the public property and withdrew from the city. The next da}^ Gillmore's troops raised the national flag over Fort Sumter, and the city was surrendered. The fire, which had become a dangerous conflagration, was quickly put out by the Federals and negroes, and Charleston was placed under martial law. Streets and Objects of Interest. — Charleston is laid out in square blocks of considerable regularity, the cross streets extending from river to river, and the longer streets running at right angles to them. The commercial side of the city is the eastern, facing the harbor and Cooper River; and the steamer landings are near the lower end of the water front, midway between the custom house and the Battery; the Union railroad station is in the northeastern part of the city, about one mile from the Battery. Horse-cars connect these landing places with all parts of the town. The principal cross street is Broad, 13 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. which stretches across the peninsula about one-third mile above its southern extremity. It terminates east at Bay Street, which extends along the harbor front in the rear of the wharves, and is principally devoted to commercial offices and the wholesale trade. The southern extremity of Bay Street forms the Battery, which was the site of the colonial fortifications of the city, and also of guns erected during the Civil War. It is now bounded by a broad sea wall which forms a favorite promenade looking out upon the magnificent harbor. The lower end of the sea wall terminates in the Battery, or White Point Garden, a public park facing Ashley River shaded by live oaks and palms, and traversed by white shell paths, along which seats are placed. A statue of a Continental soldier in the peculiar uniform of the Carolina troops, erected in memory of the militiamen who died during the Revolution in defense of Fort Moultrie; a bronze bust of Wm. Gillmore Simms, the novelist and poet (i 806-1 870), and a round tower, composed of blocks of phosphate, a mineral fertilizer and one of the most valuable products of the State, ornament this pleasant park which was known of old as " White Point." Skirting the Battery, and occupying the old narrow streets north- ward to Broad, are grouped the most magnificent as well as the quaintest of Charleston's houses, some new homes shouldering the simple but large buildings that have survived bombardment, cyclone, and earthquake. These older houses all stand with their ends to the street, the wall rising abruptly from the narrow sidewalk, thus securing a sunny exposure, and, at the same time, a considerable privacy for the wide galleries that rise to the eaves and look out upon the garden that separates each house from its neighbor. "Because of this method of building, the entrances, which, without knowing better, we would take to be the front doors, in reahty admit the members of each household either to the end of the lower porch or into the garden,_the true main doorway being on the side of the house." These spacious gardens between the houses give this part of Charleston a peculiarly charming effect, sunny glimpses of masses of brilliant flowers constantly attracting the glance through the ornamental iron gates in old brick walls or dense hedges. Trees of crepe myrtle, loaded with gay pink flowers, lean over the tops of the walls, and the heads of palms, fig-trees, and bananas occasionally appear, while rose vines climb to the eaves of the piazzas. A remarkable example of such a garden can be seen on Legare Street, at the house originally built by George Edwards, who had his initials wrought into the curved iron railings about his door. Another wilderness of trees and plants covers the graves in St. MichaeVs churchyard. This noted and interesting church stands at the corner of Broad and Meeting streets, a white stuccoed building of good Colonial architecture. It was OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 13 built in 1752 and suffered severely during the various catastrophes that have befallen the city, but has recently been repaired without change of its original form. The old square pews remain, and one by the central aisle is preserved just as it was when Washington listened to a service there. A custodian tells how cannon-balls came through the chancel window and under the altar — cannon-balls sent" from the throat of the " swamp angel " hidden in the pines during the siege of Charleston; and how the walls were cracked, the steeple turned half way around, and the floor torn up by the earthquake in 1886. The sweet-toned bells, that chime from the steeple, have had a varied history and many travels. St. Philip's Church, like St. Michael's, Episcopal, " has the third building in which the congrega- tion has worshiped, but it copies the second one destroyed in 1835." There is a true story of a slave lad having climbed the steeple of St. Philip's to put out a fire, and being set free by his master as a reward. Its churchyard contains the grave of John C. Calhoun. Another interesting church is that of the old Huguenot congregation. St. Michael's Church is on the southeast corner of Broad and Meet- ing streets, which may be considered the social center of the city. Diagonally opposite is the County Court House, and on the north- east corner the City Hall, partly surrounded by Washington Park, which contains a granite obelisk erected to the memory of the men of the South Carolina Light Infantry w^ho were slain in those battles of the Civil War noted on its base; and a statue of that great English friend of the colonists, William Pitt. A short distance below, on Broad Stveet,isth.e P til? tic Library (founded in 1748), rich in old- fashioned books and curious documents, as well as in modern works, and supplied with a good reading-room. Street-cars run north on Meeting Street to the railway station and upper parts of the city. Next west of Meeting Street, and parallel, is King Street, where are the principal retail shops, hotels, and restaurants. Street-cars run upon it from the Battery to the northern suburbs. By taking these cars to the northern end of the line, or the green cars on East Bay Street, and changing to a suburban line at the terminus, one may ride five miles into the country and return for 20 cents. Magnolia Cemetery, three miles north of the City Hall (street-cars so labeled, 10 cents), should be visited on account of its rich semi- tropical vegetation. An open space between King and Meeting streets, one-fourth mile north of the City Hall, is Marion Square, on the northern side of which is a castellated stone building, the Citadel, long occupied by a military school. A statue of the South Carolina orator and pub- licist, John C. Calhoun (1782-1850), whose teachings ultimately led 14 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. to this State taking the lead in the doctrine of " State rights" and secession from the Union, stands at the other end of the square. Just north of the Custom House is the City Market, occupying a series of long buildings extending from Bay to Meeting streets, and one of the most picturesque sights of the city. Flowers from the great rose gardens near the city are always prominent. Old darkies sit in their little pens guarding small portions of produce carefully displayed in shallow baskets woven of wire-grass and palmetto, which form the most interesting of souvenirs to tourists. Outside of the market, on top of the low walls across the way, sit numerous black, red-necked turkey buzzards {Cat/iartes cmra), and the smaller carrion crows {Catharista atratus). The market sheds terminate on Meeting Street in a large, imposing office building called Market Hall. The Charleston Hotel (special rates), on Meeting Street between Hayne and Pinckney streets, is an imposing structure, with two- storied balconies, which has been recently renovated and elaborately furnished and decorated. It is first-class in all appointments, has sunny rooms on three sides, and a breezy front, since the building faces the west, whence comes the pleasantest winds of summer. The St. Charles Hotel, corner Meeting and Hazel streets, is also a house of excellent reputation. Railways out of Charleston ; Summerville. (i) To Floroice and northward. Atlantic Coast Line (Route 13). (2) To Augusta, Columbia, Atlanta, and northwest. The S. C. & Ga. Rd. pursues a westerly course through the phosphate- producing region, crossing the headwaters of the Edisto River. This is one of the oldest railways in the United States ; it runs through a long-settled and popjilous part of the State, full of remi- niscences of Marion's exploits in Revolutionary days and of desultory fighting during the early, and again during the later, period of the Civil War. There are, however, extensive areas of pine forest, con- taining many small hotels and village boarding-houses patronized by invalids seeking relief in the dry, salubrious, balsam-scented air of this equable district. The foremost of these resorts is at Summer- ville (pop., 5,000, 22 m. from Charleston), where is situated the Pine-Forest /;z;z($4) and several lesser hotels. The In7i is a large new house among the pines, built and fur- nished with every modern convenience, and open in winter as a THE Pine forest Inn iA£INTER RESORX SUMMERVILLE, S. C. On the South Carolina & Georgia Railroad, twenty-two miles from Charleston, standing upon a .^j, plateau of sixty acres, beautifully wooded with pines and live oaks. 4 Electric lights, steam heat, and open fireplaces, hydraulic elevator, milk supply from our own herd of Jerseys, artesian water from the celebrated Pinehurst farm, billiards, bowling alley, tennis court, etc. The Transient Rates Address, Are ^4.00 to 35.00 per day. Weekly rates, according to location of room, will be quoted on application. W. B. LE HEW, Manager, Summerville, S.C. or F. W. WAGENER & CO., Owners, Charleston, S. C. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 15 health and pleasure resort. Summerville is a well-regulated village with churches, schools, lighted streets, good drainage, etc., and the locality has received the highest medical commendation. The means of amusement are various; shooting for quail, wild turkeys, etc., is good, and fox-hunts are a feature of the (neighborhood. The historical interest is very great. Four miles distant are the picturesque ruins of the old Dorchester fort, built of shell-rock on a high bluff overlooking Ashley River, which is known to have been standing since 1719. An ancient church stands near it. The Old White Church near by, now in ruins, was built in 1696. Goose Creek Church, built in 1711 (i m. from Otranto), and St. Andrew's, in 1706, are quaint structures still well preserved, the former having the royal arms of Great Britain and the coats of arms of various neighboring families emblazoned on the walls. The Oaks, near Goose Creek Church (St. James), graphically described in one of Gillmore Simm's novels, Ingleside, and several ! other old plantations, will interest the visitor. Middle ton Place, noted for its lawn and stately terraces, has remained in the same family since the Revolution, and " contains the tomb of Arthur Mid- dleton,"one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence. Dray- ton Hall, a spacious and imposing brick residence built in 1740, and used by Cornwallis in 1780, hais been the property of the present family since 1671. Yeaman's Hall is another ancient property orig- inally the residen'^e of Landgrave Smith, Colonial Governor of South Carolina. It has secret underground passages to the river, and a secret chamber where prisoners and treasures have been safely con- cealed through the Revolutionary and recent wars. There are sev- eral extensive phosphate mines in the immediate neighborhood. At Branch ville a branch diverges to Columbia; and at Denmark is crossed the Florida Short Line (Route 14). The road now rises upon the healthful watershed between the Savannah and Edisto rivers, passes Aiken (p. 47), and then crosses the Savannah at Hamburg into Augusta (p. 47). (3) To Savannah. Atlantic Coast Line (Route 13). Clyde Line Steamships Charleston to Jacksonville. The ship leaves Charleston about noon, reverses the scenery of the harbor (p. 8), steams quietly down the coast, and reaches the bar of the St. Johns River at dawn. Here, if the tide is not right, the ship anchors until the water is deep enough to allow safe passage over the treacherous bar. The voyager will hardly imagine that a broad river breaks the coastline here, for the river turns in such a manner that one sees its farther bank across its current, apparently closing the real entrance. As the ship crosses the bar a white strip of sand, crowned with scrubby pines, gleams on the left. It is the low outer 16 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. shore of Florida, and the little village clustered around the toot of the tall, red lighthouse is Mayport, said to be the best place for enjoying ; the luscious pompano. Burnside Beach is just below; and twenty- miles farther south is Pablo Beach, the sea-bathing resort off Jacksonville. History. — In 1562, Coligni, the admiral of the French navy underj.' Charles IX, and the leader of the Huguenots, sent a Huguenot colony under Ribault to America, which entered the St. Johns on the ist day of May. They named the stream the River of May, and placed a pillar engraved with the fleur-de-lis near its mouth. Two years later Laudonniere, with another party of colonists, built Fort Caroline, named in honor of Charles IX, on the south side of the river, imme- diately above St. Johns Bluff, five miles up the stream. In 1565 this fort was captured by Spaniards from St. Augustine, led by Menendez, and a terrible massacre ensued. The Spaniards repaired Fort Caro- line, renamed it San Mateo, and built two fortifications on opposite sides of the mouth of the St. Johns. A Frenchman, de Gourgues, came, in 1568, to avenge the murder of the Huguenots, and, with the help of the Indians, captured all the forts, killed the garrisons, and razed San Mateo to the ground. About 1737, Oglethorpe, the English governor of Georgia, planned a small fortification, called Fort George, on an island at the entrance of the St. Johns. The twenty-five miles from the bar to Jacksonville are very slowly traversed by the steamer. Although the river is broad and lake-like in some places, its muddy waters conceal many shoals, and a local pilot directs the ship's movements. St. Johns Bluff, on the left, above Mayport, is the highest land (40 ft.) of the region, the usual shores being merely banks of white sand that project far out under the water, as is evidenced by extensive flooded patches of green and purple marsh-grass. Herons and wild clucks rush out of these patches as the ship passes, and it is said that the largest alligators used to frequent this part of the river. About halfway to Jacksonville, on the right bank, lies New Berlin, rather the largest of the little villages that have been seen peeping from the forest, which is overtopped by a few feather-duster cabbage palms. Seines and boats proclaim one occupation of the inhabitants of this curious land, as the orange groves indicate another. At last, after many twists and turns, the „J ship is slowly fastened to the end of the wharf at Jacksonville, which; is at the foot of Hogan Street, one block from the central part of Bay Street, the princi^Dal thoroughfare, Avlicre electric cars run to all parts of the city. AN AVENUE OF PALMS ON THE LOWER ST. JOHN'S. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 17 Route 2.— Ocean Steanisliii) Line to Savannah. The Ocean Steamship Company sustains lines of first-class pas- senger steamers between Savannah, Ga. , and New York, Boston, and Philadelphia, which form a long popular north-and-south route. From New York steamers leave three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday. Saturday, 3.00 p. m.) from new piers 34 and 35, North River, foot of Spring and Canal streets, reached by street-cars, and within a quarter of a mile of nearly all the Sound steamboats. The time to Savannah is about fifty hours, and no stops are made. North- ward-bound steamers leave Savannah tri-weekly (Sunday, Tuesday, Friday, as the tide serves). The fleet includes such vessels as: "Kan- sas City," 4,000 tons; "City of Birmingham," "City of Augusta," "City of Savannah," and "Nacoochee," each 3,000 tons; they are of steel, with water-tight compartments, and provided with all " that would conduce to the comfort, security, and ease of the traveler." The saloons are completely finished in hardwood, the upholstery, hangings, and carpetings harmonizing in coloring and design. The staterooms contain two roomy berths each and are lighted by elec- tricity, as is the whole ship. A berth in one of the staterooms is included in each first-class ticket; and a person may reserve a whole stateroom to himself, when the ship is not crowded, by an extra pay- ment of $10. Meals are included in the fare. Tickets are sold and baggage is checked through by this line, from Boston, New York, and Philadelphia, to all points in the Southeastern States. Four kinds of tickets are sold: First-class (one way), excursion (round-trip at re- duced rates), intermediate (second cabin), and steerage. From Boston, via Philadelphia. — The steamships " Tallahassee," "Chattahoochee," and " Gate City" leave Boston every five days, according to schedule, and arrive at Philadelphia on the second day following at 4.00 a. m. , and sail the same day at 6. 00 p. m. for Savannah. On their north -bound voyages these steamers go direct to Boston. The Voyage from New York to Savannah gives two days at sea. Leaving New York at 3.00 p. m. , Sandy Hook is left behind before dark, and the lights of the watering-places along the New Jersey coast sparkle in plain view until bedtime. Glimpses are caught the next day of lighthouses at Hatteras and perhaps at Cape Fear (Wilming- ton, N. C), whence a direct course is laid for the entrance to Savannah River. — This river is the boundary between Georgia and South Carolina, and expands at its mouth into Tybee Roads, 18 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. north of which is the island of Hilton Head and the bay of Port Ro3'al (Route 13c). The southern shore of Tybee Roads and the lower river is formed by a series of low islands, separated by marshy channels often navigable; the outermost of these is Tybee, formerly among the most celebrated for the production of the sea-island cotton, which rendered many of these low detach- ments of the coast lands extremely valuable. Cotton culture was undertaken by the earliest settlers along this coast, but amounted to nothing until after the close of the "War for Independence. Sea- island or long-staple cotton began to be grown on the Georgia islands in 17S6, but the first successful crop was raised here on Hilton Head in 1790. The invention of the cotton-gin, followed by an immediate influx of slaves, gave such an impulse to this industry that, in 1807, the crop of the United States amounted to 48,000,000 pounds, 20,000 pounds of which was exported. Early History. — Into this river sailed, in February, 1732, Gen. James Edward Oglethorpe, with 116 colonists, planning to found there a refuge for English insolvent debtors and persons fleeing from relig- ious persecution. The colony received letters-patent from George II, and was named after him. The Creek Indians, who inhabited all that part of the country, welcomed the newcomers and ceded to them Yamacraw Bluff, the site of the present city— high ground on the southern bank, eighteen miles from the mouth of the river. The colony was wisely managed and prospered, so that when, in 1776, Georgia was adrnitted to the Federal Union as one of the original thirteen States, she had 70,000 population, and Savannah was alreadv an important seaport. In 1776 a British naval attack was repulsed, but in 1778 the English gained possession of the city, and held it in spite of a vigorous effort for its recovery, made some months later, by a combined force of Americans and French- men, the latter under D'Estaing, and including a fiery young PoHsh officer, Count Casimir Pulaski, who lost his life, and Avhose name has been identified with the locality ever since. It was not until the close of the Revolutionary War that the British were expelled. After the gaining of peace, Georgia was much troubled by Indian border-wars, but Savannah, although repeatedly devas- tated by fires, grew rapidly, and was chartered in 1789. Savannah (pop., 60,500; DeSoto, $4; Pulaski, $3.50; Screven, $2.50) is laid out with great regularity and in an interesting man- ner. A narrow, low space along the riverside is occupied by the wharves and cotton warehouses, rice mills, and vast cotton presses, which form one of the sights of the city. Behind these commercial establishments the edge of the bluff rises so steeply that few of the north and south streets come down to the river edge, most of them o '73 7^ ^^^mKB^^- i^K^M M Short Vacations For Busy People 700 MILES OF OCEAN TRAVEL PROVIDED you have a few days to rest and change the physical atmosphere of your Hfe, and invest in real recreation, can a more delightful and valuable journey be conceived than the excursion by the Old Dominion Line to Fortress Monroe? Skirting the Atlantic Coast south from New York, it gives an ideal sojourn on the sea. A MODEL VACATION TRIP. If you have seventy -two hours and $16 or $17 at your disposal, you can embark on the handsome and magnificently fitted steamers of this line, di'ink in for thirty- six hours the invigorating breath of Old Ocean, and spend the other half of the vacation at the charming Vhginia seaside resorts of either Old Point Comfort or Virginia Beach. PERENNIAL OLD POINT COMFORT. The favored coast on which these two resorts are situated is remarkable for its possession of a delightful temperature and climate all the year round, but perhaps they are appreciated in fullest measure in the winter. Then they shine by contrast with other snow-bound regions. The famous and palatial Hygeia Hotel at Fortress Monroe is the hostelry which furnishes the tourist with a home during his stay on this excursion ; or, if he select Virginia Beach, the Princess Anne Hotel. Fortress Monroe is a fascinating point for the traveler. The fort is the largest in the United States and one of the fashionable features of the excursion is a visit to it during guard-mount. The beach is a rarely beautiful one, stretching back from the great hotel in graceful, sinuous carves, and packed so hard that it makes a perfect equestrian track; while at Virginia Beach there are no less than sixty miles of such wonderful shore line. When it is said that the charge of $16 or $17 includes all the expenses of travel and the stay at these splendid hotels, the rare chance offered in these special excur- sions of the Old Dominion Line will be easily appreciated. BACK THROUGH CHESAPEAKE BAY. If one wishes to vary the return, tickets can be obtained, allowing the equally delightful experience of coming through Chesapeake Bay — the home of the oyster, canvasback, and terrapin — to Washington, and thence by rail to New York. For full particulars of these and other not less charming trips, addi^ess Old Dominion Steamship Co., Pier 26 N. R., NEW YORK, W. L, GUILLAUDEU, Vice-Pres't and Traffic Manager, OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 19 stopping at Bay Street, which runs along the brow of the bluff, and is the principal business street. On it are the city hall, custom house, banks, etc. It terminates at each end in East and West Broad .streets, which run back from the river and form the sides, so to speak, of the quadrangle of the city. Midway between these two, and parallel with them, is Bull Street y the "fashionable promenade," a walk along which displays most of the city's points of public interest. It is crossed near Bay Street by Congress and Broughton streets, on which are the best retail stores. Half a mile back (south) from Bay Street is the broad cross-street, Liberty Street, with the De Soto Hotel at the cor- ner of Bull Street; the Cen. R. R. of Ga.'s station at the western end (West Broad Street), and the Coast-Line's station at the other extrem- ity (East Broad Street). This city early became the home of wealthy merchants and planters, who erected stately and elegant homes; and these old- fashioned houses, grown picturesque through age. facing streets shaded by fine old oaks and palms, and surrounded by gardens pro- fuse with shrubbery and flowers, lend an air of old-time elegance to Savannah, dear to its people and very attractive to a stranger. The great amount of shade has given the name "Forest City" to the town, and the warm climate gives to it a semi-tropical variety very lasting and beautiful. This feature is enhanced by the small parks which stand at street intersections every 200 yards throughout all the older part of the city. All of these little parks are pretty, and some of them are specially noteworthy. Johnson Square is on Bull Street, between Congress and Broughton, and contains a Doric obe- lisk commemorative of Gen. Nathaniel Greene, commander of the Southern army during the Revolution; it was erected in 1829. Pul- aski Hotel and Christ Church face the square. The next up Bull vStreet comes Wright Square, containing the County Court House and the Gordon statue. Two blocks west of it is Telfair Place, facing which are Trinity Church and the Telfair Academy, the latter con- taining a notable collection of casts, many good paintings, and interest- ing historical objects, which are open to visitors. Walking south to Broad Street, turn east to Bull Street, at the corner of which are the Independent- Presbyterian Church and the old Chatham Academy. Just south, on Bull Street, is Chippewa Square, at the northeast corner of which is the Savannah Theater, the oldest in the United States; and one block east of this is an old cemetery worth notice. A short distance south of the old cemetery is Liberty Street and the Roman Catholic Cathedral and Convent of St. Vincent de Paul. A block west, at the corner of Liberty and Bull streets, is the new De Soto Hotel, a lofty, handsome building of brick and stone, furnished and conducted in a modern and first-class manner, and largely patron- ized by winter residents from the North. The southern face of the hotel looks out upon Madison Square, in which is a statue-monu- 3 20 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. ment to Sergeant Jasper, the hero of Fort Moultrie, representing him in the historical act of planting the fallen flag upon the ramparts. Next south, on Bull Street, is Monterey Square, with a spirited statue of CoitJit Pulaski. This monument, which rises on the spot where Pulaski fell in 1779, is a marble shaft, fifty-five feet high, surmounted by a statue of Liberty displaying the national flag; its foundations were laid by Lafayette in 1825. One square farther brings us to Forsyth Park, at the entrance to which is Hodgso7i Hall, containing the rooms, library, and museum ot the Georgia Historical Society. Forsyth Park contains thirty acres, is filled with trees of a great variety, and a vast number of flowers and flowering shrubs; it has a fountain copied from, that on the Place de la Concord, Paris, and is justly regarded as one of the most beautiful parks in the country; south of it expands a large, o^^n parade-ground, containing a mon- ument to slain Confederate soldiers, surmounted by an equestrian statue of Gen. R. E. Lee. Suburban excursions of great interest may be made at Savannah. Fine level roads, paved with crushed shells, extend from the city in every direction. The most interesting is southward to Bonaventure Cemetery, Thunderbolt, and the Isle of Hope, which can be also reached by electric cars. The avenues of Bonaventure Cemetery are shaded by long lines of ancient live-oaks, thickly hung with the graybeard moss that lends a grandly funereal aspect to the place, and makes this graveyard one of the most remarkable and interest- ing in the South. Some distance beyond is Thunderbolt, a water- side picnic place and pleasure resort (boating and fishing) renowned for its sea-food dinners. The Isle of Hope, still farther on, is the summer residence of many citizens. In another direction is The Hei'mitage, an old-time plantation well worth seeing. The story of Savannah in the Civil War is interesting. During the first months of the conflict it was open or inefficiently blockaded, so that the port was of great value to the Confederacy for the export of cotton and the import of munitions of war and merchandise. It was defended by Fort Pulaski, on a small island at the mouth of the river, and by Fort McAllister and other modern batteries nearer the city. Port Royal, S. C, was captured in October, 1861 (p. — ), and, late in November, Commodore Du Pont took possession of Big Tybee and other islands, whence Fort Pulaski, planted on Cockspur Island, could be easily bombarded. This fort had been erected by the Government many years before at a cost of $1,000,000, and was fully garrisoned. Exploration of the waterways disclosed a passage by which the gunboats made their way around the islands to the rear of the fort. Meanwhile heavy batteries had been erected on Tybee Island, and by February, 1862, the river was completely blockaded. - In April, Fort Pulaski was bombarded, and in two days had been so battered as to be no longer tenable, and was surrendered. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 31 (It has since been restored to 'an effective condition.) This enabled the Union forces to seal the harbor; but they could not reach the city itself, which did not fall into Federal hands until the latter part of December, 1864, when Sherman's army approached it from the northwest (Route 21). The defenses checked the advance, but a division passed on and captured Fort McAllister by assault. This opened communication with the blockading fleet, and a few days later Sherman nearly invested the city, which was then evacuated by the Confederates. On December 21st the Union troops marched in, and the next day General Sherman wrote to President Lincoln: " I beg to present you as a Christmas gift the city of Savannah, with 150 heavy guns and plenty of ammunition; also about 125,000 bales of cotton." Railroad Routes from Savannah. (i) To Charleston. Atlantic Coast Line (Route 13). (2) To Columbia and northward. Florida Short Line (Route 14). (3) To Augusta, Macon, and Atlanta. This is the old Central Railroad' of Georgia route, with certain alternatives. The line passes northwest to Mil I en (79 m.), where it divides, one branch proceeding north fifty-three miles through Waynesboro to Augusta (p. 47), whence the same line continues northwest to Atlanta (p. 119); the other branch continues west, 112 miles, through the Middle Georgia pine woods, via Oconee (springs) and Gordon (branch line to Mil led ge- ville, the former State capital), to Macon (p. 122), whence there is choice of two routes to Atlanta: {a) Central Railroad of Georgia (Route 21), or {b) Southern Railway (Route 22). Distance to Atlanta, via Augusta, 303 miles; via Macon, 294 miles. (4) To Aniericiis, Ga., Mo7itgomery, Ala., and west. — The Cen- tral of Georgia and allied railroads form a line directly west, through Lyons, Mount Vernon, Cordele (intersection of Georgia Southern Rd.), and Americus (125 m.) to Montgomery, Ala., and westward via Meri- dian, Miss. Americus (pop., 10,000; Windsor, $3; Allen, $2; Watts, $2) is a flourishing market and manufacturing town, with roads to Columbus, Macon, Albany, and further connections. It is in the midst of the fruit country, and is a cotton market. A few miles north is Andersonville, made forever infamous by the frightful prison pens kept there during the Civil War. (5) To New Orleans, (a) Plant System (continuation of Route 13, : Atlantic Coast Line), via Waycross, Thomasville, Pensacola, and Flomaton (Route 28). Distance Savannah to New Orleans 673 miles. I (b) Central Railroad of Georgia, to Montgomery, Ala. (see above and Route 28); distance 661 miles. 22 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. (6) To Jacksonville: (a) Florida Short Line (Route 14), via Everett; distance, 139 miles, (d) Plant System, via Waycross; dis- tance, 172 miles. Route 3.— Mallory Lines to Florida and Texas. The New York & Texas Steamship Company (Mallory Lines) maintains an excellent service of eleven iron steamships between New York and Brunswick, Ga., Fernandina and Key West, Fla., and Galveston, Tex. The company's fleet includes the "Concho," 4,500 tons; "Leona," 3,700; "Nueces," 3,700; "Comal," 3,200; "Lampasas," 3,200; "Alamo," 3,200, and several others of less size. These are built and equipped with all modern devices for safety, comfort, and enjoyment, and the table service has an especially high reputa- tion. First-class and steerage tickets are sold, and through and round-trip tickets to all prominent points in Florida, Texas, the Southwest, California, Mexico, and Cuba. The fare includes a berth in a stateroom, and a first-class stateroom may usually be reserved by payment of one fare and a half. The steerage is comfortable and liberally managed. The piers of this company, in New York, are Nos. 20 and 21, East River, adjoining Fulton Ferry, easily reached by street-cars, the elevated railroad (Fulton Street station), and the Fulton Ferry from Brooklyn. For Key West, Fla., and Galveston, Tex., steamers leave New York, during the winter-half of the year, three times a week (Tues- day, Thursday, and Saturday. 3.00 p. m.), and twice a week (Wednes- day and Saturday) in summer. Returning, steamers leave Galveston same days. The time to Galveston direct is six to seven days. Sat- urday's steamer, all the year round (Wednesday's from Galveston) touches at Kejy West, four days from New York. (For the Florida Keys and Key West, see p. 199.) The Georgia-Florida service (to Brunswick and Fernandina) is maintained by weekly sailings from New York every Friday at 3.00 p. m. the year round, except when business warrants a service semi- weekly (Tuesday and Friday). Returning, the steamers leave Fer- nandina on Tuesday and Brunswick on Friday. The time is about sixty hours from New York to Brunswick, where the vSteamer calls, transacts her business, and then proceeds to Fernandina (p. 29). If- close connection be made, Jacksonville may be reached from New York in seventy hours. Mallory Steamship [^ms (NEW YORK &, TEXAS STEAMSHIP CO.) For TEXAS, GEORGIA, and FLORIDA. Eleven Iron Steamships, aggregating 33,200 Tons. Concho Leona Nueces Comal Lampasas Alamo San IMarcos ... Colorado Rio Grande .... State of Texas • • City of San Antonio TONNAGE. 4,000 Tons 3,700 " 3,700 ** 3,200 •* 3,200 ** 3,200 *• 3,000 " 3,000 ** 2,700 *• 1,800 " 1,700 *' From NEW YORK, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. A Delightful Six Days' Voyage by Sea, to Galveston, Texas, THENCE BY RAIL TO ALL POINTS IN THE STATE OF TEXAS, MEXICO CITY AND POINTS IN MEXICO, AND TO DENVER, COLORADO SPRINGS, SALT LAKE CITY, ETC. ALSO TO SAN FRANCISCO, SAN?DIEGO, LOS ANGELES, AND ALL CALIFORNIA WINTER RESORTS. FLORIDA-VIA BRUNSWICK, GA.-TO JACKSONVILLE. ST. AUGUSTINE, TAMPA, ETC. (New York to Jacksonville in about SEVENTY hours.) Straight and Round-Trip Tickets issued to all points in Texas, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, California, Mexico, etc., Georgia, Florida, etc. Excellent Passenger Accommodations... No Overcrowding. The number of passengers on the Mallory Line steamers is limited to the seating capacity of the saloon. All passengers served at one sitting. State-rooms contain two berths and a sofa, and are arranged for two passen- gers. Soace for sea-trunks under lower berths. The passage rates include meals and berths on the steamer as well as the cost of transportation. Our 64-Page "Handbook of Routes" Mailed Free. C. H. MALLORY & CO., General Agents, Pier 20, East River, New York. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 23 Brunswick (pop., 8,000; Oglethorpe, $3.50; Ocean, $2) is one of the most interesting of the Southern seaports. It is situated upon a small peninsula between two of the four tidal rivers which empty into St. Simon's Sound in the rear of St. Simon's and Jekyll islands. As the inlet between these islands will admit vessels of nine feet draught, the commercial possibilities of the harbor are extensive, and the port conducts a large business in the export of lumber, naval stores, and phosphates, especially to South American ports. The last cargo of slaves imported into the United States was landed here. As a temporary residence, especially in winter and spring, Brunswick has many attractions. It is one of the oldest settlements on the coast, having been founded by Oglethorpe's colonists soon after Savannah. The town is divided into square blocks by very broad, straight streets, and the older parts are shaded by aged live- oaks which in many places form a moss-draped arch of dense ever- green foliage extending for several blocks. Hanover Park is filled with magnificent oaks, interspersed with palmettos andcedars. Many fine old homes, in the midst of large gardens, give an appearance of settled domesticity, very welcome to a stranger. Persons with weak lungs find the local climate beneficial, while the comparatively dry and usually sunny and balm}' air is a constant pleassure to the winter visitor, and tempers the heat of summer, when the seashore at Bruns- wick is sought by persons from the interior of the State. Good roads penetrate the pine woods in every direction, and the shooting is excel- lent throughout the neighborhood. Deer, wild turkeys, and quail are the leading items in the list, but foxes, squirrels, hares, and the vari- ous shore and water birds are numerous. The list of JisJies of this coast includes mullet, trout, blackfish, drum, bass, sheepshead, whit- ing, and flounder, and many boatmen make a business of fishing in the sounds and rivers, and send the catch to inland markets. Visitors fond of fishing can therefore get suitable boats and experi- enced guidance, and be sure of excellent sport in this direction. Sailboats and steam-launches may be hired for exploration of the very interesting waterways that lead back among the sea islands. Steamboats run intermittently between Savannah and Brunswick, and a person having the time (two days) and inclination would find the trip well worth the making. Shorter trips may be made daily by regular steamboats, one of which runs between Brunswick and Darien via St. Simon's Mills, returning the same day. Darien is a quaint old port at the mouth of the Altamaha, one of the earliest set- tlements in the State. Another line runs up the Satilla River to Burnt Fort, returning the next day. This is a trip for sportsmen. The Oglethorpe, at Brunswick, is one of the largest and most prominent hotels in the South. It covers a slight elevation overlook- 24 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. ing the harbor, within a moment's walk of the railway and steamboat stations and the principal shops. The building is of brick, three stories in height, with a frontage of 267 feet, along the whole length of which runs a wide porch, and with wings reaching back 140 feet at each end. Towers and peaked roofs give a pleasing aspect to the struc- ture. The center of the building is occupied by a spacious, marble- floored rotunda, opening at the rear upon a second broad porch, which is the favorite afternoon lounging-place of guests. All of the furni- ture and fittings of this hotel are elegant and comfortable, and there is little choice among the rooms so far as situation is concerned. The lighting is by electricity, water is supplied from an artesian well, and the provision against bad drainage or fire seems to be complete. Of the Sea Islands near New Brunswick, St. Simon's, Jekyll, and Cumberland are the most important. Of these the nearest is St. Simon's. This island is 12 miles long, north and south, from Altamaha Sound to St. Simon's Inlet, and 7 miles wide. One of the earliest settlements in the State was made upon it, and in the period before the Civil War it embraced extensive cotton plantations. The first American sea-island cotton seen in Liverpool came from here (1786), a sample raised from Bahama seed. The island still has a considerable population devoted to lumbering, farming, and fishing; but is reputed principally as a summer seashore resort. A steamboat runs twice a day, during the summer, to the hotel landing (8 m. ; fare, 25 cents), leaving Brunswick at 9.00 a.m. and 2.00 p. m. (extra trip 9.00 p. m. Saturday); and all the year round a small mail-boat makes a daily trip to St. Simon's Mills, on the western shore. The hotel landing is at the southern end of the island, where the lighthouse stands upon the site of Oglethorpe's primitive fortification called St. Simon's Fort or King's Retreat. This lighthouse is a stone tower, bearing a revolving red and white light, flashing alternately at inter- vals of two minutes and visible sixteen miles. Between it and the pier are picnic grounds, a small hotel (Ocean View, $2), and a row of small plain cottages known as the " AVaycross Colony." The amusement of the place is found in fishing and in hunting for green turtles, which come upon the beach to deposit their egg's. St. Simon's Hotel ($3) is on the hard ocean beach, on the farther (eastern) side of the island, and is reached by tramway (fare, 10 cents). It is a large wooden building of modern construction, and has extensive bathing houses, and a well -furnished livery stable. ' The immediate neighbor- hood offers no other amusement than walking, bathing, and hunting for turtles; but the northern part of the island is full of picturesque as well as historical interest. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 25 History and Antiquities. — Oglethorpe had landed at Savannah in 1733 (p. 18) and claimed for his colony an extensive region south- ward. In 1736 he returned from a visit to England with 150 High- land soldiers and a number of heavy cannon, and built at the northern end of St. Simon's Island a very strong fort protecting a settlement of colonists called Frederica, on a bluff overlooking the Altamaha, where he himself set up the only home he ever had in Georgia. He also erected earthworks for batteries at the southern extremity of the island (Fort St. Simon or King's Retreat), commanding the inlet there, and then connected the two places by a road along the inner side of the island. Two years later he attempted a fruitless attack upon Florida, then held by the Spaniards, and made other aggressive movements. In 1742 the Spaniards resolved to check these threaten- ing acts, and if possible expel the English from " Georgia," which Spain claimed as far as the Savannah River. They gathered from Cuba and Florida a fleet and sailed from St. Augustine, entering St. Simon's Sound in July with 36 vessels and 3,000 land troops. Ogle- thorpe, forewarned, was ready upon the island, but had a force of less than 1,000, including Indians, since South Carolina had denied him aid. His batteries at St. Simon's Fort were successfully passed by the enemy, whereupon he spiked their useless guns and retreated to Frederica. The Spaniards followed and annoyed him by frequent attacks, always repulsed, while he waited in vain for reinforcements from South Carolina. Then he retaliated by a night attack upon the enemy, but failed to surprise or dislodge them. By a ruse he led them to believe that a British fleet was soon expected; whereupon they marched again to attack Frederica, but were ambushed in the forest and were largely killed or captured. Those who could, re- treated in confusion, and, boarding their ships, hastened to St. Augus- tine, which they believed in danger, only to find that they had been outgeneraled by Oglethorpe. The place of their slaughter is still called " Bloody Marsh;" and the Spaniards never tried again to take possession of Georgia, which, in 1763, was formally declared British ter- ritory to St. Mary's River, the present southern boundary of the State. Delightful Excursions may' be made to Frederica and vari- ous places of interest in the neighborhood. A shell road, well maintained, runs from the St. Simon's Hotel northward— the same one which Oglethorpe built in 1736 — and passes close to Bloody Marsh (2 m.). Of Frederica nothing now remains except the old British fort and the ruins of a magazine or storehouse, of which the first and second stories are still standing. Both buildings are composed of "tabby," a concrete of shells, lime, and sand, for which the materials were abundant, and which soon hardens into the firmness of rock; probably the knowledge of tabby was a relic of information picked up by Oglethorpe in Queen Anne's wars against the Turks, for it is a common building material in Morocco. The 26 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. fort and the ' ' magazine " are a quarter of a mile apart and connected by a subterranean way. Breastworks defended the land approaches on all sides, out- side of which may still be seen several ancient tombs, in which Spaniards have been buried — presumably officers to whom the British gave Christian burial. These interesting colonial relics are slowly falling to ruin, and it is greatly to be desired that some public-spirited person should institute measures for their preser- vation. A few hundred yards from the old fort is the Church, in the midst of a group of magnificent oaks, where John Wesley, not yet a Methodist, preached to Oglethorpe's Highlanders while their, sentinels scanned the sea against Spanish men-of-war, and watched the Sound in fear of Indian raiders. A small, new building has taken the place of the original Church-of-England edifice, but it stands upon the same spot, surrounded by the old churchyard in which lie the bodies of several generations of Kings and Butlers. These Butlers had owned Butler' s Island, close by, for a cen- tury, and when Fanny Kemble, the tragedienne, married into the family, it was thither that she went as a bride. Following the original military road northeastward, the traveler presently reaches Ca7inon's Point, where the ruins of a long-famous plantation house form a point of view for a landscape of exceeding beauty. Near by still stands a hut in which Aaron Burr is said to have hidden for some time during his wanderings in the South in 1805-7, plotting an overturn of the Government. An olive-grove of 360 trees, and the stump of the oak that supplied a bow- sprit to the United States Frigate "Independence," are also pointed out to visitors. From Frederica the drive may continue eastward along hard, level roads, and beneath the entwined arms of moss-laden live-oaks to the Coitper Place, a celebrated colonial residence on an inlet named Black Banks, where the best fishing is to be had. The road then returns southward, near the ocean side of the island, through forest arches, opening here and there into glades or a view of the sea. These forests still supply a great quantity of timber, which is cut by several mills, one of which uses nothing but cypress logs. No cotton and little tobacco is now cultivated. Route 4.— Brunswick to Fernandina through the Sounds. A very pleasant divergence from any of several rail routes between the North and Florida may be made by taking the comfort- able boats of the Brunswick & Florida Steamboat Company between Brunswick and Fernandina. These leave Brunswick at 8.co a. m. , and reach Fernandina at 12.30 noon; returning, leave Fernandina at i.oo p. m., and reach Brunswick at 5.30 p. m., making train connections at both ends, and such stops as are required. OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 37 The route, southbound, crosses Brunswick harbor, leaving St. Simon's Island and inlet on the left, and turns south into a narrow tidal passage, called Jekyll Creek, along the inner shore of Jekyll Island. This is a densely-forested island, about the size of St. Simon's, reaching from St. Simon's Inlet south to St. Andrew's Sound. It was formerly more or less occupied, but lately has been left wild, and a few years ago became the property of the Jekyll Club, an association of wealthy gentlemen who wish to make the island a recreation ground and game-preserve. They have erected a luxurious club-house near the steamboat landing, made a fine drive around the island and hard roads in various directions, have stocked it with hundreds of deer and thousands of game birds, including foreign pheasants, and made every provision for out-door enjoyment and in-door comfort. The grounds are not open to the public. Cumberland Island is next south of Jekyll Island, from which it is separated by St. Andrew's Sound, whence Cumberland River fur- nishes an inland passage southward to St. Mary's River. This large island was formerly of very great value, not only on account of its timber and fish, but for its extensive plantations of cotton. It is still somewhat inhabited, and the steamer makes three stops — Cumberland, Cabin Bluff, and Dungeness — when occasion calls. The first landing is for the summer resort in the northern part of the island, which surrounds the Cumberland Island Hotel ($2.50). This is situated in the midst of beautiful woods, midway between the river and the ocean beach, with both of which the hotel and cottages are connected by tramways. A special steamer makes a daily trip between Brunswick and this place, which is a favorite resort of Georgians. Dungeness, near the southern extremity of the island, is the name of a plantation connected with the early and interesting history of the locality. Oglethorpe landed on this island, among his early explorations, named it after the Duke of Cumberland, and built a battery called Fort Andrew on the southwest side. The island remained unoccu- pied, however, and at the close of the Revolution the State gave it to Gen. Nathaniel Greene, as a testimonial to his services in the South, including Little Cumberland, the island to the north of it, which now bears a powerful lighthouse. He took possession of it and built the mansion styled Dunge^iess, but died almost immedi- ately afterward (1785). His widow maintained the plantation, cotton growing having been profitably begun on the sea-islands. As a tutor for her children she emplo^^ed a Connecticut schoolmaster, 28 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Eli Whitney, who there invented the cotton-gin, which enormously increased the cultivation of cotton, but proportionately enlarged the demand for laborers, and caused an immense importation of slaves during the next ten years, with its ultimate sad results. In 1814, Gen. Charles Henry (Light Horse Harry) Lee was severely wounded by a mob in Baltimore and went to the West Indies to recover his health. The attempt failed, and in 1818 he returned to the United States. Halting at Dungeness, he was overtaken by a relapse, died, and w^as buried, and his grave still remains there. The daughter of Mrs. Greene inherited the property, from whom it descended to the Nightingales of Brunswick. The house was carefully protected from harm during the Civil War by the troops of both sides, a national garrison holding the island after 1862; but some years later the mansion was burned. The estate was then bought by Andrew Carnegie, the Pittsburg ironmaster, who has rebuilt the house as_ a great granite castle. ' During the Civil War a battery was built at its southern end, but no fight of consequence occurred. Passing out of Cumberland Sound, and across the mouth of St. Mary's River, the steamer enters the narrow arm of the sea between Amelia Island, on the left, and Tiger Island, on the right, called North Amelia River, and soon reaches the railway wharf at the new town of Fernandina. This inlet turns west and ccmnects with St. Mary's River; southward it communicates through Kingsley's Creek, navigable for light-draught boats, with Nassau Sound, ten miles south, w^hence small boats can find their way through to the St. Johns River, making possible a continuous inland passage for light-draught boats (with trifling breaks near Wilming- ton, N. C.) from New York to Jacksonville. Sport Along Shore. — ' ' In going south (in November) the yachts- man will pass large and numerous flocks of bay-snipe on all the marshes south of Charleston. These marshes are muddy islands and of a peculiar nature. On the surface, when dry, they are firm enough for walking, but their shores are unfathomable ooze, beneath which a man would sink at once out of sight. . . Curlew, willet, marlin, all varieties down to the tiny ox-eye, and in immense flocks, frequent these islands, where they seem to find food without stint. To stool them you can set out your decoys in the thin grass, and make a stand near by from reeds or bushes. They are quite wary, however. . . These marshes are honey-combed wnth the burrows of the fiddler-crab and mussels grown on their surface in soft mounds of earth. They are covered by very high tides, and are always more or less damp. The bay-snipe, however, do not seem to winter here. They leave a small proportion of their members, but the main body goes farther south, possibly beyond the equator. There are no such m^^riads as the Northern flight would require, and they grow fewer and fewer as the season advances, till in March they are almost OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 29 scarce. Let the sportsman take his toll from them while he can; stopping amid the lonesomeness of these islands, where it is certain death to pass a summer (?), and where he may sail tens of miles with- out seeing a man, white or black. Let him try the deep holes along- side of bluffs, or where two creeks meet, for sheepshead, using for bait the Southern prawn, that gigantic shrimp, with its body six inches long and its feelers ten; and if he can catch no fish and misses the birds, let him rejoice in knowing that there are millions of both in Florida." — R. B. Roosevelt, Florida and Game IVatcr-Birds. Fernandina (pop., 4,000; Eginont, $3.50; 'Strathmore, $2.50) is chiefly interesting to sportsmen and as a seaport. The town is on the landward side of Amelia Island, and its pretty harbor is con- sidered the finest on the coast south of Chesapeake Bay, and was well known to the early explorers; but no permanent settlement was made until 1S08. In 1818 the place fell into the hands of a filibuster named McGregor, and was made the headquarters of piratical forays upon Spanish commerce. When this was ended the town faded, but slowly advanced after Florida came into the L^nion in 1821, encouraged by the building there of Fort Clinch, a really powerful work on high ground at the northern end of Amelia Island, flanked by water-batteries and outworks. This fort was not garrisoned, though fully armed, and at the outbreak of the Rebellion was seized by the Confederates, who valued the harbor as a refuge for blockade-runners. In 1S61 a Confederate prize-vessel was run ashore and destroyed by a National cruiser. The town then had about 2,000 inhabitants. In February, 1862, a Federal fleet, under Dupont, came from Port Royal to attack this point. On its approach the fort and town were hastily evacuated. Only one vessel, the " Ottawa," in that state of the tide, was able to reach the town at once, with Commander Percival Drayton in charge. As he passed Fort Clinch a boat's crew was sent ashore to hoist the American flag as a signal to the fleet. A white flag was displayed at Fernandina, but shots were fired at the " Ottawa," and a raifway train drawn by two engines was discovered just moving off. It was naturally supposed to contain troops, and an exciting chase ensued, as th^ track was, for some four miles, within range of the river. The "Ottawa" endeavored to disable the engines with her large-rifled gun, but the train had the advantage of speed, and eventually left the gunboat behind, escaping across the bridge. A steamer, the " Darlington," crowded with refugees, was less fortunate, being captured by the " Ottawa's " boats. The occupation of Fernandina restored to Federal control the whole of the sea-coast of Georgia, and afforded a convenient base of operations against Jacksonville and St. Augustine. — Norton. Handbook of Florida. The city at present is busy as a port, since it is the center of 30 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. the lumber trade of Florida, and exports large quantities of phos- phates. There are extensive wharves and elevators. The streets are wide, shady, covered with shell paving, and lighted by electricity. The climate is singularly equable. Opportunities for interesting yachting and canoeing are equaled by few, if any, places on the Southern coast, and excellent sport with gun and rod can be had the year round. Interesting excursio7is ma}^ be made to Fort Clinch, and to the " old town " (i i^ m.), beyond which is the lighthouse. Amelia Beach, t\ie ocean shore of the island, is thirteen miles long — pure white sand, almost as hard as asphalt, . at low tide, and famous throughout the South. The Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad extends from Fernan- dina southeast to Cedar Keys. At Yulee (12 m. inland) it is inter- sected by the Florida Short Line, where passengers change for Jack- sonville, thirty-six miles from Fernandina. Route 5.— Cromwell Line to New Orleans. The Cromwell Steamship Company run large iron steamers, hav- ing full passenger accommodations, between New York and New Orleans, direct, sailing from Pier 9, North River, New York, every Saturday, and from the foot of Toulouse Street, New Orleans, every Wednesday. Through tickets are sold to interior points north and west of New Orleans, and to California and Mexico. As New Orleans is hardly within the limits of the present book, a more par- ticular description is not called for here. Koute 6.— Boston, Providence, and Baltimore to the Soutli. The Merchants' & Miners' Transportation Company runs lines of large and commodious steamers from northern to southern ports, with through tickets to interior points in Georgia, Florida, and Ala- bama, as follows: (i) Boston to Baltimore, via Norfolk and Newport News, tri- weekly (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 2.00 p. m.), from Battery Wharf. The interesting scenes of Boston Harbor are in view before dark, and the next day a delightful run is made through the land- locked waters of Vineyard Sound, whence a straight course is laid for the "Capes of Virginia." The time from Boston to Baltimore is about three days, including stops of several hours at Norfolk and OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 31 Newport News (p. 32). The steamer leaving Boston on Saturday connects at Baltimore with the steamier to Savannah. Steamers leave Baltimore for Boston, via Norfolk, June i to Sept. 30, Tuesday and Thursday at 4.00 p. m. ; Sunday at 10.00 a. m. ; Oct. i to May 31, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 2.00 j). m. (2) Providence, R. I., to Baltimore. — Steamers leave Providence for Baltimore, via Norfolk, Newport News, and West Point, every Wednesday and Saturday, 6.00 p. m. Returning, leave Baltimore every Monday and Friday, 2.00 p. m. (3) Baltimore to Savannah (p. iS). — Leave Baltimore tri-weekly (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 3.00 p. m.), stopping at Norfolk. The time is about three days. Returning, steamers leave Savannah same days, at high tide; time to Boston, six days. Route 7.— Old Dominion Line, New York to Norfolk. The Old Dominion Steamship Company runs daily lines of steam- ers between New York, Norfolk, Newport News, Old Point Comfort, Richmond, and West Point, Va. The favorite boats are the "James- town" and "Yorktown," 3,000 tons each, and the "Roanoke" and "Guyandotte," 2,400 tons each. All these are modern, fast, well- appointed, and well-manned screw-steamships, capable of per- forming a first-class ocean service. They leave New York from Pier 26, North River, foot of Beach Street, and the general office of the company is on the pier. The steamers to Norfolk, Old Point, and Newport News depart five times a week, omitting Friday and Sun- day; those to Richmond, direct, on Monday, Wednesday, and Sat- urday; and those to West Point, direct, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, always at 3.00 p. m., except on Saturdays, at 4.00 p. m. The voyage begins by a daylight run down New York harbor, and Sandy Hook is left behind long before nightfall. The early morning finds the ship out of sight of land, but by breakfast time the lighthouses on the Virginia coast rise upon the horizon, and soon the vessel is heading into the broad entrance to Chesapeake Bay, between Cape Charles on the right and Cape Henry on the left; the Cape Charles lighthouse is en Smith's Island, but Cape Henry light stands upon the mainland, and the course is nearer the latter. Passing inside the capes, the expanse of Chesapeake Bay stretches northward, on the right, and the wooded shore of Princess Anne County, Virginia, on the left, guides the eye up to the mouth of the James River, which 32 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN STATES. debouches through the narrows formed by Sewall Point on the south and Old Point Comfort on the north. The steamer steers toward the latter, past the dismantled island-fort Wool, on the ripraps (known as Fort Calhoun until the secession of the Southern States, whereby Calhoun became a traitor), and lands passengers on the Government pier, close to the Hygeia Hotel and Fortress Monroe. Old Point Comfort has been so called since the earliest coloniza- tion of Virginia (1606), but it is only a spit of sand almost wholl}^ occupied by the greatest of American fortifications — Fort Monroe. This is open to visitors, and ought to be inspected b^ everyone who has the opportunity; it always contains a large garrison, and is the seat of the Artillery School of the Army, where officers are given a post-graduate course of training in the theory and practice of gun- ner3^ and the science of fortification. There is usually a warship or two in the harbor to add further martial interest to the scene. The beauty of the situation and the extreme salubrity of the climate, especially in the trying months of spring, caused the erection here, long ago, of a great luxurious hotel, The Hygeia ($4), and more recently of a second. Chamberlain's ($5). A third hotel. The Sher- wood ($2), stands opposite the entrance to the fort. These hostelries, the climate, the bathing, military attractions, and easy accessibility, have combined to form one of the most charming and fashionable all-the-year-round watering places on the continent. There is daily communication with Baltimore, Washington, and Norfolk by water, and with the rest of the world by rail. The C. & O. Ry. has a termi- nal station on the mainland, a mile from Old Point, and runs through trains up the " peninsula of Virginia" — made memorable by McClel- lan's campaigns of 1863 — to Richmond and Gordonsville, Va., where it joins its main line from Washington to Cincinnati. The first station on this line is Hampton (Barnes, $2), the site of a National Ceme- tery and Soldiers' Home, and of a National Indian Training School. There is also an electric tramway from Old Point Comfort to Hamp- ton ( 5 cents), and from Hampton onward a few miles (10 cents) to Newport News {Hotel Warwick, $4; Point Breeze Hotel, special rates), the tide-water terminus of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, and a port of call for several lines of steamers; it has an extensive dry dock, vast coal pockets, grain elevators, and other facilities for com- merce, and possesses a ship-building yard in which several United States cruisers have been built, or are now building. Midway 'tr North and South. AN IDEAL WATERING PLACE. ^^ afFOLDPoIrf HARRISON PHOEBUS, FOUNDER F.N.PIKE, MANAGER. 100 V^F^DS FRO/A ^(^ OPEN ALL THE YEAR OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 38 The Hotel Warwick is a well-appointed structure, open the year round, much frequented, especially in spring, by health and pleasure jeekers. The fishing and fall shooting is very good in this neighbor- tiood. In front of it, in the expanse of James River called Hampton Roads, the " Monitor " defeated the " Merrimac "(March 9, 1862), rev- pi utionizing naval warfare; and here, in 1863, McClellan assembled lis vast Army of the Potomac. The quaint name of this place comes Prom an incident of 1608, when John Smith's colony at Jamestown, starved and disheartened, had set out to return to England, but here received notice that Christopher Newport's ships were coming to :heir relief. Norfolk (pop., 40,000; New Atlantic $3; St. James, $3; Nor- folk, $2). Crossing Hampton Roads, the estuary of the James River, passing Craney Island (see below), and entering Elizabeth [River, thp steamer reaches Norfolk about twenty hours from New York. The wharf is at Lambert's Point, whence street-cars run to the hotels and all parts of the city. Norfolk is one of the oldest towns in the country, and is well worth a few hours' examinatior Its streets and water front, including old Fort Norfolk, built in iSi and old Fort Nelson opposite, are picturesque, and the newer parts 01 the city show many fine residences. There is an extremely interest- ing Colonial (1730) church {St. PauTs) and churchyard, and the market should be visited. While the city has an extensive ship- ping-trade in lumber, coal, peanuts, oysters, fresh fruit, and early vegetables sent to Northern markets, its most valuable export is cotton, of v/hich it ships an amount next to Savannah; and the visitor should see the huge hydraulic cotton presses in which the bales are compressed to a third or fourth of their bulk in preparation for ship- ment. The neighborhood offers many interesting excursions, the principal one of which is to Virginia Beach, on the shore of the Atlantic, twenty miles east (reached in forty-five minutes several times daily in summer), where there is a large first-class hotel, the Princess An7ie ($3.50), and another, the Ocean Shore Park ($2.50), and every facility for surf-bathing and seaside enjoyment. Another older and very delightful resort, nearer Norfolk, is Ocean View (special rates) on the shore of Chesapeake Bay, reached by electric cars (seven minutes). The boating and fishing are excellent here; bathing in the comparatively quiet, but purely salt, water of the bay is abundantly provided for, and there is every provision, both for those who reside for long periods at the newly-fitted hotel, and for the large number who come out of town for a single day at the shore. 34 G Ulni£ TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. Portsmouth (pop., 15,000; St. Elmo, European plan) is on the opposite side of Elizabeth River, and connected with Norfolk by a ferry. It has the U. S. Marine Hospital — a conspicuous pillared edifice in an extensive grove, open to visitors, on the river bank — old Fort Nelson, and the Norfolk, or " Gosport'' Navy Yard, the largest and one of the oldest in the United States, a short walk from the ferry and free to visitors. Electric cars run from Portsmouth to Port Norfolk, to connect with the Atlantic & Danville and Norfolk & Carolina railways. In 1775, the Earl of Dunmore, then governor of Virginia, enraged at his subjects for having put into practice the plans proposed by the Virginia convention, and the organization of the militia, declared martial law, promised freedom to all slaves who should join him, and proceeded to lay waste the country about the Elizabeth River. The patriots rose against him, and courageously defeated his forces in twent3^-five minutes, at Great Bridge, a fortilied passage of the Uzabeth near the Dismal Swamp (December 9, 1775). Lord Dunmore reated to his fleet of war vessels in Norfolk harbor, but could pro- ;e no provisions from the town, and was so annoyed by patriot shots, lat he bombarded the town (January i, 1776) ancl burned most of it. The Virginia militia removed the people, and the next month burned the remainder of the town that it might afford nothing to the British. Dunmore ravaged the coast, and then built a stockaded fort on Gwyne's Island, from which he was driven by the militia, and finally, after more destruction, went entirely away. On the I St of June, 1813, a British fleet under Admiral Warren entered the Chesapeake and attacked Norfolk, which was defended by Forts Norfolk and Nelson, on opposite sides of the Elizabeth River, the small forts. Tar and Barbour, and fortifications on Craney Island, five miles below the city. The frigate ' ' Constellation " and a flotilla of gunboats defended the water approaches. A British frigate, ' ' Junon," lay about three miles from the rest of the fleet, and one dark morn- ing (June 20, 1813) several gunboats surprised her and were only repulsed when two other British vessels came to her assistance. Immediately the royalist fleet moved into Hampton Roads and attempted, by a land force and barges, to capture Craney Island, but a terrible" cannonading sent the attacking troops back to their ships, and the Norfolk navy yard and the ' ' Constellation " were saved. The navy yard contained a great deal of valuable military property when the Civil War opened. On April 16, 1861, boats were sunk by the Confederates in the channel of Elizabeth River to prevent the Union vessels from getting out. The Federal Government, hearing of this, sent orders for the proper defense and care of the navy 5^ard, but Commodore McCauley was dilatory in following instructions. Two days later a Confederate commander prepared to seize the navy yard. The workmen and southern -born ofiicers deserted to the Confederacy and McCauley scuttled all of the ships except the New Atlantic Hotel NORFOLK, VIRGINIA. R. S. DODSON, Proprietor. R. A. DODSON, Manager. Especial Attention of Tourists and Invalids is called to the Fine Climate of Norfolk m m m Wf. w?. w he made it the scene of revelry and 72 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. rough, hilarious sports, such as were enjoyed by the carousing, fox- hunting generation in which he lived. Here he dwelt when his former protege, Washington, had successfully prosecuted the War for Inde- pendence, and the deliverance of the colonies had been achieved. Near Riverton, where the old " Manassas Branch of the Virginia Midland Railway" crosses, the Shejiandoah River is first seen — a stream as attractive as the suggestions of its name lead us to antici- pate. The long, lofty mountain, isolated and fine in outline, which stands in the center of the valley ahead on the right, is Massanuttefi Mountain, and it is divided lengthwise by an interior trough-like depression filled with a curious people and redolent of quaint stories. The* proper Shenandoah River and Valley lie beyond (west of) that mountain, but this railway passes east of it through Page Valley. The village of Front Royal, two miles from the station, is 150 years old, and was formerly celebrated as the principal place of making the old-fashioned strong "Virginia wagons" used for heavy freighting over the mountains, and by emigrants going to the new West._ Here occurred some exceedingly interesting incidents during the Civil War, in one of which a mere handful of Confederate cavalry, under a boyish commander, dashed into the village, captured the provost-guard, and made off with it successfully, though two whole regiments of bewildered Federals were at hand to protect the place. The guerrilla Ashby (whose home was up in the Blue Ridge, not far away) was hovering about here much of the time, while Jackson enacted his series of victories in this district; and, onMay 22, 1864, here took place one of the most disgraceful routs Union soldiers ever were ashamed of, four companies of Flournoy's Virginians attacking a thousand or so of Bank's army, entrenched on Guard Hill, with such impetuosity as to scare them in utter confusion from their works, with great loss of life, stores, and artillery. These disasters were requited later in the same year, however, when Sheridan, driving back Early, fought so stubbornly along this very limestone ridge which the rail- way track follows, and ended the campaign by the victory at Cedar Creek, five miles west of Front Royal, which has been made the theme of the famous poem and painting, " Sheridan's Ride." Luray and the Grottoes. — Luray(pop., 1,400; Mansion Inn, $2; Laurence, $2; Rust, $2; free omnibuses) is a rustic village in the midst of beautiful scenery and a charming summer climate. Its principal attraction is the series of Caverns of Luray, one and one- half miles from the station, which rank among the most extensive and interesting caves, fitted for public view, in the world. Admis- sion, during the day, $1 ; after 6.00 p. m., $1.50; for parties of less than six jDcrsons an extra charge of $2 (for the party) is made for turning on the electric lights. The cave is easily entered by a short tunnel in the hillside; is dry, so that no protection to the cloth- ing is needed; is traversed by board-walks, stairways, and bridges; is '» I^^^M.,. , P m^^^^^^-^^^^^^ '••*^M^\^-; ^ t *:'V'''y. '^i^K'^-M ,^ ^:^. ^ ^^^ i?' . %% r; M r: ■^ •#'■ ls8" ■-■-„=:.J-mBI ^ THE NATURAL BRIDGE, LOOKING UP STREAM. ^?^;':^-'JA)fi-ff!' The Hotel Laurance, Luray, Page County, Virg-inia. *^T* HIS is an all-the-year-round hotel, situated on the highest point in town and (0) the nearest to the Caverns. Since the burning of the famous Luray ^^ Inn, November, i8gi (which has not yet been rebuilt), The Laurance has been recognized by the traveling public as the leading house in town, and though no way pretentious, is very comfortable, homelike, and cheerful, and just the place for tourists en route to break their journey and rest over night. Pure water. Lithia water is hauled fresh every day for use of guests from a mountain spring of immense volume, and so, with all modern plumbing in the house, our sanitary condition is excellent. Visitors stopping at The Laurance make no mistake. A good livery is connected with the house and our facilities for transferring visitors to and from the Caverns are equal to any emergency. The Laurance is a favorite of the Wheelmen and has the recognition of the L. A.W. Association, has been running ten years, and stands upon its merits. So stop at The Laurance and you will be pleased. Rates, $2.00 per day; $10.00 per week. JOSEPH PARKINSON, ^ Owner and Manager. ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 73 lighted throughout by electricity, and visitors are furnished with intel- ligent guides who have given names to every feature. Everyone is strongly recommended to visit these caves, since the experience is instructive as well as highly enjoyable. Many accounts of the caves have been written, one of which, very complete and based upon explorations and illustrations made by The Century Magazine in 1882, forms a chapter in Ernest Inger- soll's " Country Cousins" (Harper & Bros., New York, 1884, $2.25). The caves consist of a labyrinth of subterranean chambers, passages, ravines, and stream-beds, filled with column-like stalagmites, curious excrescences of lime-formed rock upon the floor and walls, and with hanging stalactites, largely of a thin, flat form resembling curtains or heavy cloths hung corner-wise, and slender and strangely twisted and distorted pendants, translucent and often richly colored. The stoppage between the morning and evening trains is sufficient to allow a good view of these caverns, though the vicinity of the village invites one to many pleasant excursions. Among other trips, one may go (9 m.) to the top of Stony Maiu Mountain (alt., 4,031 ft.), where a "camp" of log-houses offers a place of rude but comfortable entertainment, with unlimited scenery, and shooting and fishing in their season. From Luray southward the train runs up the Page Valley, past Swift Run Gap in the Blue Ridge, through which came the first white explorers of these western valleys, and w^here were some of the liveliest cavalry operations of the Civil War. Port Republic was the scene of the frightful battle of June 10, 1862, in which Jackson defeated the Union army, under Shields, and began to recover the whole valley for the Confederates. Cross Keys, another battle-point, is near by, and the peak at this northern extremity of Massanutten Mountain w^as an important Confederate signal-station throughout all the valley campaigns. Along this part of the line great quantities of iron ore are produced, and extensive blast-furnaces are seen. The region also yields manganese, marble, copper, kaolin, ochre, fire-clay, and other valuable minerals, besides the timber products of the high- lands, of which tan -bark is an important item. At Luray is the largest tannery in Virginia, employing over 400 men. Grottoes {Grottoes, $3) is the station for Weyer's Caves, half a mile to the westward. These are a series of caverns very similar to those of Luray in general features, but having individual interest sufficient to make a visit to them well worth while. They are pre- pared with walks, a service of electric lights, guides, etc., for comfort- able inspection, and are now officially known as the " Grottoes of the Shenandoah." Admission, same as at Luray. n GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. The chambers are larger than those at Luray, giving a more satis- factory perspective view of their contents, and other special peculi- arities are noticeable. These caves have been known for more than a century, and were enthusiastically described, in his "Notes on' Vir- ginia," by Thomas Jefferson, and by " Porte Crayon," in Harper's Magazine for 1854, It may be added that many lesser caverns are known throughout this limestone region, and that their peculiarly interesting drapery-like characteristics are duplicated in the cele- brated caves of Hungary, and in those near Manitou Springs, Colo., at the base of Pike's Peak. Basic City (Hotel Brandon, $3), just below Grottoes, is at the intersection of the C. & O. Ry., and was formerly called Waynesboro Junction. A small town has recently grown up here around some great iron-works making steel by the basic process. The favorable situation, with reference to transportation, coal, coke, iron ore, and the materials for mixing with it in smelting, is likely to ca^jise this part of the valley to grow. steadily as an iron smelting and general manufacturing district. The Chesapeake & Ohio Railway extends from Washington and Newport News (p. 32) to Cincinnati and Louisville. Its Washington line passes through the center of Virginia, over many of the battle- fields of the Civil War, to Gordonsville, where it is joined by the line from the ocean terminal, via Richmond, and then turns west, through Charlottesville and the Blue Ridge, to the crossing of the Shenandoah Valley at Waynesboro, one mile west of Basic City. Waynesboro (pop., 1,000 ; Hotel Brunswick, $2.50) is the seat of a military college, and the scene of a notable defeat of Early's Confederate army by Union troops under Custer in March, 1865. Staicnton is a more important towm, twelve miles west, noted for its wealth and large seminaries for girls. It is near the southern terminus (at Lexington) of the B. & O. Rd. from Harper's Ferry (p. 71). West from Staun- ton, the main line of the C. & O. Ry. continues over the Alleghanies by a route which is not only exceedingly picturesque, but passes through the historic " Virginia Springs." The principal watering- places along its line, or adjacent to it, are Rockbridge and Variety Springs ; Warm, Hot, and Healing Springs near Clifton Forge ; White Sulphur Spring Sy^.^i'Co. Red Sulphur, Salt Sulphur, Old Sweet, and Fort Springs near by. The line then descends the Kanawha Valley, through the coal regions, to Charlesto7t, W. Va.; reaches the Ohio River at Ashland, Ky., and passes thence to Cincimiati along the south bank of the Ohio. Another line extends from Ashland, through Lexington and Frankfort, Ky., to Louisville. This road also oper- ates the former Richmond & Alleghany Railroad, an exceedingly picturesque route between Richmond and Clifton Forge, which fol- lows the James River to its source, and passes through Lynchburg, Balcony Falls, Natural Bridge, and Lexington. Lexington is a town which Southern people are fond of calling BLUEFIELD INN, Bluefield, W. Va. MAPLE SHADE INN, Pulaski, Va ••• Norfolk & Western R. R. Virginia and Ohio Line Best Route BETWEEN OHIO, INDIANA, ILLINOIS AND VIRGINIA AND THE GAROLINAS .9: ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 75 the "Athens of Virginia," because of its intellectual society and regard for books. This arises from the fact that since its foundation it has been a school town, and has the celebrated Military Institute, where •' Stonewall" Jackson was a teacher and many Confederate officers were educated. Older than this is the Washington and Lee College, established previous to the Revolutionary War. It was fostered by Washington. Lexington was occupied by Federal troops during the war, but after its close both institutions were revived. In 1865 General R. E. Lee became President of the college, and remained there until his death (October, 1870). He is buried in a mausoleum at the rear of the college chapel, beneath a remarkably beautiful recumbent monument, and Jackson's grave is in the neigh- boring cemetery. Several other persons of wide reputation live or have lived in Lexington. It is the southern terminus of the B. & O. Rd. from Harper's Ferry (p. 71). Crab-Tree Falls and the Natural Bridge. Though the vicinity of Waynesboro is a w^ell-cultivated farming and grazing region, the face of the country southward soon becomes too rough for farming, and the scene from the car windows is an ever-varying panorama of rugged hills and deep ravines. Almost the only signs of human occupation are small log cabins, whose occupants earn a scanty living by chopping logs, gathering tan-bark and sumac leaves, and in hunting, fishing, and feeble farm- ing. The hills we are passing across — a tangled series of folds belonging to the Blue Ridge — are called the Big Levees, and are dominated eastwardly by the Humpback Mountains. Their drainage forms the uppermost source of the Shenandoah. The streams which go to make it up are countless, prattling down every green hollow. Now and then a pretty cascade is seen, like the Cypress Falls oppo- site Riverside, leaping fierce and white out of the wooded precipice into a deep and quiet pool. The greatest of all cataracts in the Virginia mountains, however, is the Crab-Tree Falls, reached by the old turnpike from Vesuvius to Montebello and the Tye River Valley east of the Blue Ridge. Sheridan once passed a large part of his army across the mountains by this road. At the very summit, from among the topmost crags of Pinnacle Peak, one of the highest in Virginia, comes the Crab-Tree to descend 3,000 feet in a horizontal distance of 2,000 feet, forming "a series of cascades athwart the face of the rock, over which the water shimmers in waves of beauty, like veils of lace trailed over glistening steel." It is possible to reach the foot of these falls and climb to their top, for any one who wishes an adventurous undertaking, with camp life and sport with the rod as a part of the reward. Through the gaps of the hills wonderful landscapes open out from the car windows — far views southward and westward into the richly blue folds of the mountains ; but chiefly our eyes are held by 76 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. green dells, the romantic river, and the captivating bits of ruined canal. This is a region in which the mining and manufacture of iron has been pursued for a century, and recently an industrial town has been founded at j5?/^«« Vista {,Buena Vista Hotel, %2. so), iorty-tssfo miles south of Basic City, with mines, iron furnaces, steel works (by the basic process), paper mills, and other factories. At Lock Laird, just beyond, the C. & O. Ry. (p. 74) is crossed, and then comes the station for the Natural Bridge, which is two and one-half miles northwest by hack (round trip, $1), along an elevated road, giving fine views of the James River and many mountains. The Appledore and Pavilion hotels ($3.50) and their cottages occupy a "park" near the Bridge, which is a natural arch of limestone spanning a stream gorge and connecting two of the many lofty hills. The height of the arch is 150 feet, of the whole bridge 215 feet; width, 100 feet ; span, 90 feet. As to its origin, it appears to be simply the remaining part of the roof of a former water tunnel, the remainder of which has caved in and been washed awa3^ This simple explanation, however, while disposing of some foolish rhapsody, does not detract from the beauty or grandeur of the scene of which it is the central part, and there is probably no more thoroughly satisfactory "natural curiosity" in the country. In addition the neighborhood affords excellent opportunities for riding, fishing, mountain climbing, and other out- door amusements in a healthful climate. The lawns are cleared around the head of a shallow ravine, the extreme upper point of which is occupied by an enormous mineral spring and fish basin. Down the ravine from the spring goes a well- graded pathway, which quickly disappears in the woods standing along the tumbling cascades of a brook that traverses the estate until it has descended into a lovely glen. A step forward and the bridge is before us ! The first impression is the lasting one — its majesty! It stands alone. There is nothing to distract the eye. The first point of view is at sufficient distance, and somewhat above the level of the founda- tion. Solid walls of rock and curtaining foliage guide the vision straight to the narrows where the arch springs colossal from side to side. Whatever question may arise as to its origin, there is nothing hidden or mysterious in its appearance. The material of the walls is the material of the bridge. Its piers are braced against the moun- tains, its enormous keystone bears down with a weight which holds all the rest immovable, yet which does not look ponderous. Every part is exposed to our view at a glance, and all parts are so propor- tionate to one another and to their surroundings — so simple and com- parable to the human structures with which we are familiar, that the ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. Tl effect upon our minds is not to stun, but to satisfy completely our sense of the beauty of curve and upright, grace and strength, drawn upon a magnificent scale. Crossing the torrent upon a foot bridge, we wander up the creek a mile or more, past Hemlock Island; past the cave where saltpetre was procured for making powder, in 1812, and again during the Confederate struggle, and even penetrate the low portal within which a " lost" river murmurs and echoes to our ears its unseen history, as it plunges through the dark recesses of its subterranean course; and the farther we go the more rugged, thickly wooded, and charmingly untamed is the gulch. The glen above the bridge extends for a mile to Lace Water Falls, where Cedar Creek leaps 100 feet from the upper level. This glen was probably once an immense cave. The path follows the stream or is cut into the rocks that form its bank. The bridge seen from this (the upper) side is imposing, and its magnitude is perhaps more striking; but on the whole it is not so effective, regarded as an object by itself, as when studied from below.* Southward from Natural Bridge the line follows the windings of the James past Buchanan (the C. & O. Ry. is seen on the other side of the river), crosses a wild mountain ridge, and descends rapidly to a junction with the Norfolk & Western's line from Norfolk at Roanoke. Route i6a. — Norfolk to Roanoke. This is the old main line (257 m.) of the Norfolk & Western Rail- road, an historic road crossing Southern Virginia over ground which witnessed the bloodiest closing scenes of the Civil War. Suffolk (23 m. from Norfolk; pop., 2,000; Commercial $2) is a village on the western edge of the Great Dismal Swamp, where arrangem.ents can be made for a trip by boat to Lake Drummond, in the center of the swamp — the scene of Thomas Moore's pathetic poem. An abso- lutely straight piece of track, laid through a dead level of sandy pine and oak scrub, takes the train to Petersburg (p. 43), where connec- tion is made for Richmond, and south by the Atlantic Coast Line. West of Petersburg the land improves and becomes replete with military associations. Burkeville, the first station of consequence, and in the midst of a fertile region, is the junction of the Richmond & Danville Railroad. Every station and roadway along this part of the line has some heroic war story to tell — Sailor's Creek, Fort Gregg, Five Forks, where the Confederacy made its final fight, and Cumberland Church, where, in a sharp skirmish, the Federal forces suffered their last repulse. Just beyond Cumberland Church is the High Bridge (i m. long), spanning a depression rich in corn and tobacco. * Condensed from Shenaiidoah and Beyond, by Ernest Ingersoll. Published by the Norfolk & Western Ry., 1884. 78 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. The latter crop is the staple production of the region. Here a serenely beautiful landscape is spread before and beneath the eye, its horizon formed by the varied outlines of the distant and always admirable Blue Ridge. In this vale, now so sunny and peaceful, happened one of the most impulsive cavalry fights of the war, where horses dashed breast to breast, and saber clashed against saber, in the fury of hand-to-hand conflict — an unnecessary battle, for Lee surrendered within a few hours. Near Farinville, the center of this fine agricultural region, stand Hampden Sidney College and the Presbyterian Union Theological Seminary, besides a popular watering place called the Farmville Lithia Springs. Pamplin's Depot is noted for its factories of red clay pipes, and not far beyond is Appomattox station, near that world- renowned court house where (April 9, 1865) Lee's rebellious army of " tattered uniforms but bright muskets " surrendered its flags to the unbroken Union. A little farther the train emerges from the hills upon the banks of James River, and follows its picturesque bendings into Lynchburg (p. 57), where connection is made with the Piedmont Air Line. Beyond Lynchburg the train passes westward through beau- tiful hills at the base of the Blue Ridge. Liberty is an old town celebrated for tobacco and for several flourishing academies for young men and women. A newer part of it is called Bedford City. Here the Peaks of Otter, the highest points of the Blue Ridge in Virginia, are conspicuous and beautiful at the right. The hotel close to the top of the sharpest of their twin summits can be seen. The excursion (6 m. by private conveyance) is one of great enjoyment, and views of wonderful beauty are obtained from the road and from the peaks, of which the southwest one has an altitude of 3,875 feet, and the other (Flattop) of 4,001 fe»t. Blue Ridge Springs and Coy iter's Springs, lively summer resorts with mineral ( waters, are passed, and the train reaches Roanoke. Roanoke (pop., 20,000; Roa?ioke, $3 to $5; Ponce de Leon, $2.50; St. James, $2) is an enterprising industrial city which has grown up here since the completion, in 1882, of the Shen. Valley Ry., and its junction with the N. & W. Rd., by reason of the manufactures which the proximity of iron and coal, other minerals and valuable earths, timber, tan bark, fruit (the canning industry is important throughout all this part of the State), and the central position of the place as to railroads, have made a profitable investment to their promoters. A large business in supplying goods at wholesale to the surrounding country followed, and the healthful and beautiful situ- ation attracted and kept a population. Three iron furnaces, a rolling mill, a, bridge-building shop, and the railway machine shops, are the largest concerns, but many lesser factories employ many men. An important local railway, the Roanoke Southern, now a part of the ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 79 Norfolk & Western System, extends southward to Winston-Salem, giving a short line to the South Atlantic Coast, via Greensboro. Roanoke to Bristol, Tenn. The journey from Roanoke to Bristol (i 5 1 m.) is all the way through stately and beautiful mountains, and past a series of small towns, many of which have an industrial importance, or are of old repute as summer resorts. Salem (pop., 2,000; Hotel Duval, Salem House, each $2.50) has Roanoke College, an iron furnace, brick yards, and other factories; Roanoke Red Sulphur Springs ($2.50) is ten miles distant by stage. Shawsville is the station for Alleghany Springs ($2.50), three and one-half miles by stage, and Crockett Arsenic-Li thia Springs ($2. 50), seven miles by stage, Christiaiisburg (pop., 1,500; Judkins House, $1.50) has near it Motitgomery White Sulphur Springs (I3), Yellow Sulphur Springs (I2.50), three and one- half miles by stage, and Blacksburg (3 m.; Cherokee Inn, $2.50, the site of the Virginia Agricultural College). At Radford {^a^iorA Inn, $2. 50) a manufacturing and railway town is rising at the crossing of New River (the upper course of the Great Kanawha). Westward, down New River, goes a line to the Pocahontas " Flattop " coal and coke regions, where it divides, one line passing northward through West Virginia and Kentucky to Columbus, Ohio, and the other down the Clinch River Valley to Cumberland Gap, and thence connecting through to Knoxville and Louisville. Fifteen miles west of Radford is Eggleston's Sulphur Springs (I2), whence a rough road goes back to the untutored heights (4,400 feet) about Alountain Lake (or Salt Pond), near the summit of the Alleghanies, a wild, beautiful, Alpine region (also reached from Blacksburg), with a fair hotel. Pulaski {Maple Shade Inn, $3; Hotel Pulaski, $2) is another energetic manufacturing center, developing out of an old market town, in a beautiful situation. A branch railroad leads southward into the Cripple Creek mining district, where various ores of iron, zinc, lead, and other valuable products of mine and forest are obtained, and many furnaces and other factories of raw material are springing up. Pulaski Alum Springs are eight miles distant by hack. Max Meadows Inn (special rates) is similar, and is the center of large cattle-grazing interests. Wytheville (pop., 4,000; Boyd's, $2; Fourth Avenue Hotel, $2; boarding-houses). The village, one-half mile from the station, has long been a famous summer resort, and is coming to be a winter refuge on account of the mild and healthful climate. It is a pleasant 80 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. old town, where some noted people have dwelt, and is steadily improv- ing. Near by are many mineral springs, and Sharon Alum Springs are only eighteen miles distant, Marion is a market town, with woolen factories and the State Insane Asylum; and at Glade Springs are extensive horse-breeding farms and the medicinal Seven Springs. Eight miles north (by a branch) are the gypsum beds and saline wells of Saltville, which yield 10,000,000 tons of salt annually. Saltville was an important objective point for the Federal cavalry attack upon this region, in the early spring of 1864, wnth the special purpose of destroying the railroad and certain sources of Confederate army supplies. It began with a march up New River by Crook (one of whose* commanders was Rutherford B. Hayes), and a frightful battle on the slope of Cloyd's Mountain, near Christian sburg. The Confederates were driven from their entrenchments, and the railway, bridges, and military stores at and near Newbern were destroyed. While Crook was operating along New River in this destructive man- ner, another cavalry force, under Averill, was sent to work all the ruin it could along this more western part of the line, and especially to destroy the works at Saltville, which were almost the only reliance of the Confederacy for this commodity. Averill struggled over the mountains, but learned that the defenses of Saltville (still crowning her hills) were too strong for him, since he had no artillery, and there- fore turned southward against the bullet-making lead works at Wytheville. But the Confederate general, John Morgan, moved his troops and guns at once from Saltville to Wytheville and fought Averill so well that the latter retreated eastward and contented him- self with wrecking the railway and shops near Christiansburg. «; Passing Emory, with its college for boys, and Abingdon, noted for its girls' schools, this stage of the line terminates at Bristol (pop., 6,000; Fairmont, special rates; Hamilton, $2; Woods, $2.50; St. Lawrence, special rates), the terminus of the N. & W. Rd. and the beginning of the E. T. , Va. & Ga. division of the Southern Ry. The boundary between Virginia and Tennessee divides the town along its principal street into two municipalities, Bristol, Va., and Bristol, Tenn., and sometimes occasions amusing legal (or illegal) complica- tions. A branch line runs north to Cmnberland Gap, historically interesting and the scene of recent iron works and Northern coloniza- tion enterprises. Bristol to Chattanooga. The route now enters upon the territory of the S. Ry. The fxrst point of interest \^ Johnson City {2^ m.), an important and progressive little city, and the junction for Roan Mountain or " Cloudland. "—The Roan Mountain Summit ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 81 is the loftiest part of the Appalachian range, and the Cloudland Hotel is the highest inhabited point east of Colorado, From Johnson City a narrow-gauge railroad runs twenty-six miles up the valley of Doe River. Immediately at Elizabethtown (lo m.) begins a series of wild gorges, walled in by cliffs and promontories several hundred feet in height, rugged, precipitous, and pinnacled with spires of rock, but everywhere richly draped in the foliage of trees, vines, and flowering shrubs. The rocks slant at a steep angle, are of various colors, and frown upon the stream which plunges down the canon in a series of white cascades, leaving hardly room for the track. It is doubtful if there is a wilder and more beautiful gorge than this, traversed by a railway, anywhere east of the Rocky Mountains, and it would be well worth the tourist's while only to make the trip up and down it, sleep- ing over night at the hotel at the railway terminus. Near the farther end of the line are the Cranberry iron mines and furnaces, where a fine quality of magnetic iron ore is smelted. The terminus of the railroad is at Roan Station, where there is a comfortable hotel ($3^ From this point a daily stage runs to the summit of Roan Mountain (12 m., fare $2, baggage extra), and to Cloudland, a large, substantially-built hotel ($2.50) and collection of cottages. The altitude is 6,394 feet, and the summer temperature varies only from minimum 56° F. to maximum 74° F., according to the records of the United States Meteoric station maintained there. The locality is said to be absolutely curative of hay fever. The hotel is supplied with spring water and heated by steam and open wood fires. Music for dancing, billiard-rooms, a bowling-alley, and broad piazzas give opportunities for in-door amusements, while tennis courts, walk- ing, riding, fishing, and camping trips invite the guests out of doors. Horses can be hired at $2 a day. View from Roaji Mountain. — " Standing on the summit of Roan and on the boundary line between Tennessee and North Carolina, we are in the presence of a dozen mountains that were old before the Alps were born, and not one of them has a rival in height between the Great Continental Divide and the Atlantic Ocean. To the north- east towers Grandfather, the loftiest peak in the whole line of the Blue Ridge, while directly opposite, and dimly outlined against the sky, is Clingman's Dome, the culminating of the Big Smokies, and second in altitude to Mitchell's Peak alone. To the south, and near by, looms the Black Mountain, so called from the somber firs which sweep in unbroken forests over its crest; and beyond it are the others of this giant cluster — Mitchell among them, the supreme point, more than 6,700 feet high, of the Appalachian system — while of 6 82 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. peaks 4,000 feet high or more, a hundred are in sight. The Roan itself, which commands this view 150 miles in every direction, is 200 feet higher than Mount Washington. It does not culminate, how- ever, as does the New Hampshire mountain, in a mass of naked granite with scanty vegetation in the chinks of crumbling rocks at its base, but its summit expands into a rolling meadow, richly green with pasture grasses." — New York Tribune, Nov. 20, 188^. The surrounding region is very interesting to the mineralogist, geologist, or botanist. The rocks are of the Laurentian period, the oldest recognized by science, and abounding in minerals. Within a few miles magnetic iron ore is mined, gold and gems are washed from the beds of the streams, and great numbers of pre-historic mica mines may be found. The botany of these mountains has always been regarded as peculiarly rich and interesting, the altitude causing many almost Alpine plants to flourish near the summit, while sub- tropical species may be plucked at the base. Game is. scarce, but excellent fishing for trout and other species can be had in all the mountain valleys. Johnson City to Knoxville. — East Tennessee presents many points of interest. At Jonesboro was the first settlement in the State — Scotch-Irish immigrants from North Carolina. Wonderful views of the mighty mountains of the Roan and Smoky ranges, along the Carolina border, are caught as the train rolls across a rich and thickly occupied region toward Greenville (pop., 2,000; Mason, $2; Grand Central, special [rates), the most important town in East Tennessee. This was the home of Andrew Johnson, President of the United States, 1865-68, a monument to whom is conspicuous on a hilltop east of the village. Rogersville Junction is connected by a branch line with Rogersville (15'^ m. north), where are extensive quarries of the celebrated mottled Tennessee marble. Hale Springs ($2) is a summer resort eleven miles north of Rogersville. Morris- town (pop., 3,000; Virginia, $2), near where the confluence of the French Broad and Nolichucky rivers forms the Tennessee River, is the next station. Here comes in the Piedmont Route (Southern Ry.) from Salisbury and Asheville, and this way come tourists from the West and Northwest to the mountain resorts of Western North Carolina (p. 65). Another railway runs north to Clinch River and Cumberland Gap, ten miles north, on which road is Tate Springs, an elevated watering-place, which has been resorted to for a great many years by Southerners. One large hotel ($3) and two or three lesser ones form the center of a small summer village. The country below Morristown is the rich " Newmarket Valley"; ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTALNS. 83 and the Holston River is crossed at Strawberry Plains, a few miles below which this river enters the Tennessee near the city of Knoxville (pop. , 30,000; Imperial, $3; Knox, $3; New Schubert, $3; Palace, $2.50; Lamar, $2; Hotel Vendome, $3). This is the largest and most important city in East Tennessee, and one of the foremost in the South. It occupies a somewhat hilly site, upon the bank of the Tennessee, and has steamboat navigation during the season of high water. The city is not only the market town of a wide agricultural and grazing region, but has a remarkably large and valuable whole- sale and jobbing trade. Gay Street, the main thoroughfare (electric cars from the station to the hotels and all parts of the city), is a solidly-built avenue, at the river end of which is the court house, from whose cupola may be gained a view hardly to be equaled in the United States for pastoral beauty, with distant mountains. The older eastern part of town is uninteresting, except for the home of Parson Brownlow, the famous 'abolitionist. Westward the city stretches for a mile along prettily-shaded streets, and contains the homes of many wealthy men, which now extend far down the bluffs overlooking the river. The loop-line of electric cars in this direction affords a pleasant excursion. The new Episcopal cJiurch is a notable piece of architecture. One hilltop is occupied by the building and spacious grounds of the University of Ten7iessee. On another, in this direction, are the remains (rapidly being swept away) of Fort Sanders. \ Battle of Knoxville. — In 1863 Maj.-Gen. Ambrose E. Burnside commanded the Federal forces in this region, where there was a large Union sentiment among the people, and where, by his occupation, he prevented a junction of Bragg's Western Confederate army with Lee's army in Virginia. After the battle of Chickamauga (p. 107), Longstreet, with 20,000 men, was sent against him, whereupon Burn- side withdrew into Knoxville and greatly strengthened its fortifica- tions, of which Fort Sanders was the citadel. The first attack was repulsed, but the Federals were soon confined to their works, which were completely invested, cutting the Union army off from supplies and all communications with the North, which felt extreme anxiety as to its fate, knowing that starvation would soon compel surrender. Late in November, Longstreet prepared for an assault. He secured a point for his batteries commanding Fort Sanders, and was com- pleting preparations, when he received word of Bragg's defeat at Chattanooga (p. 108) and decided that he must capture Knoxville at once, if at all, since Grant was now free to send large forces to its relief. On the night of November 28th, he assaulted Fort Sanders, and next day there was fought an almost hand-to-hand conflict of 84 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. several hours' duration, whicii was one of the most determined and bloody battles of the war. " The Nationals had formed a network of wire from stump to stump in front of the fort, and in this the storming party became fearfully entangled, while the guns of the fort, doubly shotted, made havoc in their ranks. The assailants finally gained the ditch and attempted to scale the parapet, and one officer reached the summit and planted a Mississippi flag there, but instantly his dead body and the flag fell into the ditch. Very soon 300 of the assailants in the ditch surrendered and the assault ceased." Heavy columns of National troops under Sherman (p. 85) were now approaching Long- street's rear, and, perceiving his peril, Longstreet raised the siege and retreated toward Virginia. Knoxville has very large and valuable manufacturing interests in ^ the way of iron furnaces, rolling mills, car factories, machine shops, woolen and cotton mills, and small industries. These and the other business enterprises are due largely to the city's favorable situation with reference to coal, iron, limestone, and other minerals and raw materials, and to being a natural center for transportation lines. A steam packet makes double weekly trips between Knoxville and Dandridge, Tenn., giving a charming voyage on the Tennessee and French Broad rivers. Besides the main Southern Railway line along the valley, three other railroads center here : (i) To Middlesboro, Ky., Cumber la7id Gap, and West Virginia (Knox., Cumb. Gap & Louisville Rd.). (2) To Cmcmnati and Louisville, via Jellico. (Route 17.) (3) To Atlanta, via the Marietta & North Georgia Ry. This new line extends southward along the western base of the Chilhowee Mountains to the gap made by the Hiawassee River. At Tellico Junction, south of Knoxville, it crosses a short line from Athens, Tenn., to Tellico Plains. In this neighborhood are mineral springs and resorts of local importance, such as the Red Mountains and White Cliff Springs (alt., 3,000 ft.), where small hotels exist. At Blue Ridge Junction, near Morgantown, Ga., (taken to pieces in 1863, by Sherman, to build a bridge over the Little Tennessee) a branch leads west to Murphy (p. 65). Returning from Knoxville, in the middle of December, 1863, all of Sherman's army was halted' along the Hiawassee and Little Tennessee, occupying for rest and, recuperation these fertile valleys and well-supplied villages, while, the cavalry entered the mountains at Murphy in pursuit of wagoii trains and to collect horses and recruits. Ellinjoy, Jasper, Canton, and Marietta (p. 114) are successive stations to Atlanta. The dis- RO UTES EAST OF ALLEGHAN V A/0 UN TAINS. 85 tance is 205 miles, through a rural region and with a wholly local service. (4) To Maryvi'lle, fifteen miles south. From Knoxville Southward (Southern Ry.) is an interesting journey through the populous valley of the Tennessee. The coun- try opens, though the heights of the Unaka, or Great Smoky Range, still tower blue and very mountain-like in the east over the tops of the near Chilhowee Hills, while the Cumberland Mountains form the western horizon. At London the river is crossed upon a bridge 1,800 feet long, giving a lovely view. A short distance above the bridge the Little Tennessee enters from the east, and quantities of grain are brought down both rivers for shipment at this point. Large steamers make regular trips from the lower river as far up as Kings- ton, an old and important town on the Tennessee, a few miles below Loudon, and small steamers ascend to Knoxville and beyond. Lou- don and Kingston are connected by a daily line of packets. Sweet- water, Athens (branch eastward to the Red Mountain summering resorts), and Riceville are small market towns, and between Calhoun and Cleveland the beautiful Hiawassee River is crossed. Clevela?td (pop., 4,000; Hotel Ocoee, $2, station eating-house) is a pretty and active town which is growing into favor as a summer residence. Here a branch diverges southward to Cohutta, forming a cut-oif to Atlanta, and certain through cars go that way. (See Route 22.) Below Cleveland the train rounds the Oak Mountains, turns west- ward and enters Chattanooga along the base of Missionary Ridge. All this region was swept by Sherman, early in December, 1863, on his rapid march from Chattanooga to relieve Burnside, besieged at Knoxville. The Confederates had burned all the bridges, but they were repaired. The cavalry came up at Athens, and the whole column hurried on to Loudon, which was abandoned, after much destruction, by the Confederates under Vaughn. The loss of the bridge here diverted the army south to Morgantown, where the Little Tennessee was crossed, and a new concentration was made at Marys- ville, whence Knoxville was within reach. Later all of this railroad, and that from Cleveland to Dalton, Ga., was torn up. III. WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. Tlirougli Routes From Chlcag^o and- St. Louis to Florida and New Orleans. 1. By the Evansville Route (Chicago & Eastern Illinois and Louisville & Nashville Railroads), through trains, Chicago to New- Orleans, and sleepers, Chicago to Nashville and Chicago to Jackson- ville. ^■ 2. By the Illinois Central Railroad, through trains, with sleepers, to New Orleans, and through sleepers from St. Louis to Memphis, and from Kansas City to New Orleans, via Memphis. 3. By the Louisville & Nashville Railroad and Louisville, Chatta- nooga & St. Louis Railroad, through sleepers, St. Louis to Atlanta, St. Louis to Jacksonville, and Nashville to Jacksonville. A Sketch of the Civil War in the TVest. In order that the traveler — who can hardly escape battlefields and mementos of the great Civil "War between 1861 and 1865 \^herever he may journey in the South — may have a general comprehension of the operations in the West, and their connection with later events near the seacoast, and so associate, in their true relations, the more particular accounts of the great battles about Corinth, Chattanooga, Atlanta, etc., elsewhere described, a brief sketch of the war west of the AUeghanies ought here to be given. 1862. — The very first aggressive movements by Union authorities against attempted secession were made in Missouri; but those, and subsequent operations on that side of the Mississippi, bore little rela- tion to the conduct of the war in Tennessee and southward. Ken- tucky was saved from formal secession by the activity of its Union citizens. It declared itself neutral — an impossible position, which neither side respected long, but which had the immediate effect of (86) WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 87 preventing the Secessionists from occupying its territory. Tennes- see, however, though the majority of its voters were opposed, was carried into secession by its governor and his cabinet, and the Southern authorities immediately formed their advanced line of defense along its northern boundary. By the opening of 1862, Union troops, under Gen. Geo. H. Thomas, were dispersing outposts, and gained one decided success at Mill Springs, on Cumberland River. Meanwhile, Gen. H. W. Halleck, the Union commander, had com- mitted the river-district to Brig. -Gen. U. S. Grant, who began operations by capturing Fort Henry, on the Tennessee River, and, later. Fort Donelson (February 13, 1862), twelve miles distant, on the Cumberland, whereupon the whole Confederate line retired. By this time large and well-organized Union armies were arrayed in the West. One, moving south, gradually cleared Missouri of Con- federate soldiers. Another, assisted by gunboats, drove them from Island No. 10 (April 6, 1862), and seized the Mississippi as far as Mem- phis. In concert with this movement, and while the "Army of the Ohio," under Buell and Thomas, held Nashville, Grant led a large army up the Tennessee Valley to the southern boundary of West Ten- nessee. An equally large Southern force was entrenched at Corinth, Miss. , and the two mighty opponents met (April 6th) at Shiloh and Corinth (p. 87), to the ultimate discomfiture of the latter. During this spring, Farragut had captured New Orleans and the lower Mis- sissippi River, and tried to take Vicksburg from below, but failed. Otherwise, command of the whole river was maintained by the Fed- eral gunboats, which occasionally ran the Vicksburg and Port Hud- son batteries, and the Confederates destroyed their own flotilla, penned up in the Yazoo t June 26th). There were also minor operations in Arkansas and Missouri; late in August a Union expedition freed the Yazoo of Confederate defenses; many of the Atlantic and Gulf seaports had been taken possession of by National troops during the year, and more or less fighting had occurred along the seacoast. In Southwestern Tennessee, the summer was spent in cavalry oper- ations along the line of the Memphis & Charleston Railroad (Route 20), including severe fighting at Bolivar, Tenn., in raiding and resistances throughout Northwestern Tennessee, and in preparations on both sides for a fall campaign. Westerly, there was fighting in West Vir- ginia, and notably in Kentucky, where, in July, Morgan's guerrillas raided through the western-central part of the State. 88 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Preceded by a widespread and dashing cavalry-advance, under Forrest and Kirby Smith, Braxton Bragg started north to Kentucky and Ohio, through East Tennessee, early in September, simultaneously with Lee's invasion of Maryland. Both expected to arouse large sympathy and assistance among the citizens of these border States, who, they thought, would flock to their standards; but they had totally miscalculated the sentiment of the common people, comparatively few of whom welcomed or aided them. Bragg penetrated unresisted into the blue-grass region, destroyed millions of dollars' worth of railroads and other property, and frightened the Legislature into adjourning from Frankfort to Louisville. Then he set up a new (Secession) State government, which endured only as long as he remained to support it, and devoted his time to collecting from all sides vast quantities of horses, cattle, provisions, and portable property. Buell was slow to oppose him with a Union army, but finally flanked and defeated him (October 8th), at Perryville (p. 93), and turned him back. While this went on, two large Confederate forces occupied North- ern Mississippi, under Price and Van Dom, and made two attempts to move north to join and support Bragg, both of which were defeated, at luka, Miss., and Corinth (p. 98), scattering their armies. This was early in October. Buell was then slowly pursuing Bragg (who was endeavoring to take all his cattle and plunder south with him), but was so dilatory about it that he was superseded by Rosecrans (September 29th), whose command was thenceforth known as the "Army of the Cumberland"; he pushed Bragg more vigorously, drove him away from Nashville, and cleared the State of partisan cavalry. This was at the end of November." Lee had already been repulsed from Maryland, and now Bragg had been forced back, with perhaps more loss than gain from his expedition. This so astonished and troubled the Southern people that the Confederate government ordered Bragg to advance again, which he did in December, taking a strong position at Murfreesboro, Tenn. , where he was again dislodged by the dreadful battle of Stone River (p. 94). Meanwhile, Grant had been given a sort of roving commission to fight his way south- ward, and concerted with Sherman and Admiral Porter a plan for descending the Mississippi and assaulting Vicksburg. Grant's inland part of the plan was upset, in December, by the Confederates Van Dorn and Forrest, who captured a garrison and burned supplies at WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 89 Holly Springs, Miss., and he retired to Memphis. Sherman and Porter sailed down the river, however, seized the Yazoo, and attacked the Vicksburg batteries, but could do little without Grant's coopera- tion, and went back to Memphis, leaving the Confederates to greatly strengthen and reinforce Vicksburg and Port Hudson, loo miles below it, where Banks had a Union army in front of the garrison. 1863. — The winter was an active one along the coast, where the national blockade was strengthened and a few good points gained. During January and February, Forrest's, Wheeler's, and other tire- less cavalry were raiding in Western and Middle Tennessee and Southern Kentucky, and attempts by the Confederates to recapture Fort Donelson failed. In January, an expedition ascended the Arkansas and did great damage to Confederate interests in that quarter, clearing the way for the contemplated movement on Vicks- burg, Miss., which began in February, and lasted until that city was environed, besieged, and surrendered four months later. Grierson's (Union) cavalry raid in April, tearing up railroads, burning bridges, factories, etc., through Northern Mississippi, was an incident of this time; and the destruction of Jackson, Miss., was another. While Grant's army was approaching Vicksburg, Rosecrans was watching Bragg, who was ensconced in the Cumberland Mountains, northwest of Chattanooga, lest he should go against Grant. He was also busy in resisting cavalry raids, and making expeditions of his own, one of which, in March, had a severe fight at Franklin, Tenn., while another (Streight's raid) swept south to Gadsden and Rome, in Georgia. Rosecrans finally pushed Bragg out of the Cumberland Mountains and back to Chattanooga, and menaced him there by such masterly strategy that he not only prevented his doing anything to relieve Vicksburg, but forced him out of Chattanooga. He followed, and was met by Bragg's sudden turning back (September 19th) to fight the battle of Chickamauga (p. 107). Rosecrans was partly defeated, returned to Chattanooga, and established himself there in a fortified camp, leaving Burnside to hold East Tennessee, at Knoxville, as best he might. Meanwhile, Grant had returned with most of his troops from Vicksburg, had been made supreme commander in the West, organized a better protection against cavalry-raiding in Tennessee and Kentucky, removed Rosecrans and put Thomas in his place, and during October and November concentrated the body of his forces at Chattanooga, where, on November 25th, were fought the battles of 90 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge (p. 109). This, with the defeat of Longstreet at Knoxville (p. 83), freed Tennessee of Con- federate armies, and military operations in the West were closed for the year 1863. 1864. — The Confederacy was virtually beaten by its great reverses in 1863, and from a military point of view the war ought to have stopped; but, as political considerations and machinations had brought it on, so politics and sentiment kept it up to the last gasp. The United States Government prepared for a more unified prosecution of the war than ever before. Grant was given supreme command of all the armies, and called East to take personal charge of the move- ment against Lee. Sherman w^as lifted to general charge in the West, where, except for the bold dashes of Forrest's cavalry, the theater of operations was soon altogether south of Tennessee. Early in February, Sherman began a destructive expedition against Jackson and Meridian, Miss., returning to Vicksburg two months later; but a cavalry campaign against Forrest, made by Gen. Sooy Smith from Memphis, in February, was bungled and beaten, and the expedition sent into Arkansas under Banks (but against his judgment) failed. These things done, Sherman concentrated about 100,000 men at Chat- tanooga and set out to fight his way to Atlanta (p. 115 to 119), which he reached and captured in August. The Confederate army, now commanded by J. B. Hood (who had replaced J. E. Johnston), retired, fighting, into Northern Alabama, followed part of the way by Sher- man, who presently gave up the chase, which seemed intended to lure him out of Georgia, and went back to Atlanta with his whole army. Thence he sent reinforcements to Thomas, who had been operating meanwhile against Forrest's raiders in West Tennessee and protect- ing the railroad-communications, and left him to take care of Hood as best he could. Hood pushed north into Tennessee in November, fighting his way through Pulaski and Columbia to Franklin, Tenn., where a great battle took place on the last day of November. It resulted in a Union victory, with terrible loss on both sides; but the position was untenable, and the Union army retired into the fortresses of Nashville. Hood followed to the attack, and, two weeks later, came the battle of Nashville (p. 225), which resulted in the complete rout of the Confederates, who retreated as far as Lexington, Ala., where the pursuit of the disintegrated enemy was abandoned. Sherman, meanwhile, had left Atlanta and started on his inde- WESTERM RAILROAD ROUTES. 91 pendent "March to the Sea" (p. 124), the close of the year find- ing him at Savannah (p. 18). The last two months had also wit- nessed Union successes beyond the Mississippi, at Mobile and in Florida, where, as a rule, the Confederates had proved the better fighters, in Florida. 1865. — The fourth year of the war opened in the East with the tremendous struggle between Grant and Lee about Richmond and Petersburg, and Sheridan's campaign in the Shenandoah Valley (p. 71), ending in April at Appomattox. By that time Sherman had marched through the Carolinas, by way of Columbia (p. 54), Fayette- ville, and Bentonville; Wilmington and Goldsboro had fallen, and Johnston, was on the point of surrender at Durham (p. 43). While these greater operations went on, minor successes were taking place in the Southwest, the most important of which was Wilson's raid through Northern Alabama to Selma (p. 131), Montevallo, and Montgomery, Ala., Columbus, and Macon, Ga., and the capture of Mobile (p. 231) in April. This left nothing but scattered bands of Confederates east of the Mississippi, which melted away by desertion, or were arrested here and there by Union cavalry, includ- ing a small party escorting Jefferson Davis to a place of safety, and Kirby Smith's army in Northern Louisiana, which surrend- ered on May 26th — the last organized force of what had styled itself the Confederate States of America. Route 17.— Jellico Route. This is the Louisville & Nashville Railroad route oetween Louis- ville or Cincinnati and Knoxville, via Jellico, with sleeping-cars to Knoxville. (i) From Cincinnati the line is that of the former Kentucky Cen- tral Ry. Straight south through the blue-grass region, via Paris, Winchester, and Richmond. All of these were the scenes of severe battles with guerrillas, and during Bragg 's invasion of the State in 1S62. Just below Richmond is Berea, famous for its college for the coeducation of white and colored students of both sexes. The wild mountain country soon begins, and exceedingly picturesque views are shown as the train makes its way by many curves and skillful engineering across the Cumberland Mountains. This and the glimpse caught of the primitive life of the rustic inhabitants, who are not far advanced from the style of Daniel Boone, whose favorite 92 • GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. hunting-ground this v/as, make this a very interesting journey for the traveler interested in something besides speed and big cities. (2) From Louisville the line runs southwest via Bardstown, Lebanon, Stanford (Crab Orchard Springs, sulphur and chalybeate), and Mount Vernon to Lzvmgston, in Rockcastle County, where it joins the line from Cincinnati. This is an extremely picturesque region, and has many mineral springs, one of which, Rockcastle Springs, eighteen miles southwest of London, near the Cumberland River, and 1,800 feet above the sea, has long been of high repute as a pleasure and health resort. At Cor bin, a line leads east to Barboursville and Cumberland Gap, con- necting with the N. & W. Ry. for the East. The Cumberland is crossed at Williamsburgh, where the Cumberland bituminous coal- field is entered, the commercial center of which \s,Jellico, on the boundary of Kentucky and Tennessee. The next station is Clinton, Tenn., whence the C. & N. O. Rd. runs to Harriman's (p. 93) and Chattanooga. Crossing Clinch River at Clinton, a few miles more brings the train to the Union station of Knoxville (p. 83). Route 18.— Queen & Crescent Line to Chattanooga. The " Queen & Crescent Route" is a line of connected railways, primarily operating through, trains between Cincinnati, the " Queen City," and New Orleans, the " Crescent City." It also sends through sleeping-cars between New York and New Orleans, Cincinnati and Jacksonville, Fla., and Chattanooga and Shreveport, La. Its lines are as follows: (i) New York to New Orleans (sleeping-car only). Baltimore & Ohio Rd. to Washington, Southern Ry. (Route 15 and 15b.) to Chattanooga, and Q. «& C. Route (2) to New Orleans. (2) Main Line, Cincinnati to New Orleans. The road leads due south from Cincinnati, through the rich blue-grass agricultural and grazing region, to Lexington, the center of the Kentucky racing- stud farms. The country now becomes hilly and picturesque, and the crossing of the Kentucky River upon a very lofty bridge is a remarkable bit of scenery. The road keeps straight south, through a populous, prosperous, and beautiful region, past Danville (intersec- tion of the Louisville & Nashville Rd.) and Somerset, just south of which the Cumberland River is crossed, after which the line ascends its South Fork to its source in the Cumberland Mountains. WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 93 Near Danville, Ky., on this line, occurred one of the hottest battles of the Civil War. Bragg's and Kirby Smith's invading Confederate armies (p. 88) had joined, and were headed toward Cincinnati, when the Union commander, Buell, who had been racing with them to the westward, turned upon the invaders (October 1,1862) at Frankfort. They withdrew, skirmishing, to some miles below Harrodsburg, where, at a hamlet called Perrjrville, close to Danville, the two armies became engaged on the 9th. The Confederates were everywhere successful at first, crushing line after line of raw troops until they came to a division commanded by Sheridan, who withstood the charge and enabled the Union army to recover. Then, as so often happened, the superior staying-power of the Northern soldiers asserted itself, and the Southern men, exhausted by their impetuous charges, were turned back and defeated, retreating steadily after- ward until driven out of the State, but carrying a large amount of provisions and property with them. About 5,000 men were lost on each side in this battle, which destroyed all hope on the part of the South of an invasion of the Northwest. At Harriman's, Tenn., the line of the " Jellico Route " (No. 17), and of roads to Cumberland Gap and Kingston, come in; and a flour- ishing manufacturing and trading town is growing up under arrange- ments designed to make it a model community. A sleeping-car from Ci7icin7iati to Asheville, via Knoxville, diverges here. The road here bends southwest, and follows the western side of the valley of the Tennessee River, along the base of Waldron's Ridge, past a group of local summering-places about Spring City, and through the enterprising town of Dayton (pop., 3,500; small hotels, $1 to $2) to the Central Station in Chattanooga, 338 miles from Cincinnati. A through sleeping-car is run over this line from Cincinnati to Jacksonville, Fla. (i), via Chattanooga Southern Ry., and (2) via Southern Ry. to Atlanta and Everett, and Florida Short Line (p. 53) to Jacksonville. Through trains, carrying sleepers from New York, via S. Ry. (Routes 15 and 15b), from Chattanooga, run from Cincin- nati to New Orleans, via Birmingham and Meridian ; also a sleeper from Chattanooga to Shreveport, La. (For details see Route 27, p. 220.) Route 19.— liOokout Mountain Route. This is a name for the Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis Rail- way, which approaches Chattanooga from the northwest. Its con- nections concentrate traffic from St. Louis and Cairo, and from Evansville and Louisville at Nashville (p. 225). It runs through cars, via Chattanooga from St. Louis (L. & N. Rd.^ to Atlanta; Nashville 04 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. to Jacksonville (Ga. Sou. Ry. and Plant System); and Nashville to Knoxville. This line from Nashville south existed before the war, and was the principal dependence of the Union armies, by whom it was oper- ated almost exclusively for military purposes from 1862 to 1865. Its first important station, thirty-two miles south of Nashville, is Mur- freesboro, the scene of one of the greatest conflicts of the Civil War. Battle of Miirfreesboro or Stone River. — After the Confederate invasion of Kentucky (p. 93) had failed, Bragg was ordered to make a new advance from his stronghold in the Cumberland Moun- tains toward Nashville, and on December 30, 1862, was confronted by the Federal army under Rosecrans on the opposite side of Stone River at Murfreesboro, where Jefferson Davis was visiting him. Bragg was strongly entrenched, but took advantage of a fog on the early morning (December 30th) to sally out and make an unexpected attack in great force. The surprised Federal right wing w^as crushed, but the center, under Thomas, resisted and stood firm until Rosecrans could form a new line, and dispatch cavalry to annoy the enemy's flank. " The day ended with Rosecrans immovable in his position, but he had been driven from half the ground that he held in the morning, and had lost twenty-eight guns and many men, while the enemy's cavalry was upon his communications. Finding that he had ammunition enough for another battle, he determined to remain where he was and sustain another assault. This came on the second day of the new year [1863] when there was some desultory fighting, and Rosecrans advanced a division across the stream to strike at Bragg's communications. Breckenridge's command was sent to attack this division, and drove it back to the river, when Brecken- ridge suddenly found himself subjected to a terrible artillery fire, and lost 2,000 men in twenty minutes. Following this, a charge by National infantry drove him back with a loss of four guns and many prisoners." This ended a battle which had cost each army some 12,000 men. A monument now marks the spot where Hazen's small brigade of Union troops checked the Southern onset, and turned the tide of battle. Bragg immediately retired to new defenses on Duck River, twenty -five miles southward, and remained there for several months, while Rosecrans went into winter quarters along Stone River. About thirty miles south of Murfreesboro the hills begin, and mineral springs and mountain resorts become numerous. The first populous center is Tullahoma, sixty-nine miles from Nashville (pop., 2,500; alt., 1,070 ft.; Hurricane Hall, $2), from which several springs resorts are accessible. Hurricane Springs, five miles west by hack, whose " amber-green and golden waters" were formerly celebrated, has lately been swept by fire. Cascade or Pylant Springs, eight miles by stage, has an alkaline, sulphurous water in high repute for WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 95 its curative properties. Along the branch railroad extending north- east (69 m.), to the coal fields of White County, at Bon Air, are several other places of local resort, among them McMinnville, county seat of Warren, and Nicholson Springs, near by, which yield chalybe- ate, freestone, and red sulphur waters. Just below Tullahoma, on the main line, is Estill Springs, an old favorite, near which is anew neighbor, East Brook Springs, which is supplied with Hurricane waters and has a new hotel. Near here branch lines diverge west to Colum- bia, Tenn. (p. 226), and Huntsville, Ala. (p. 99). At Cowan a short line extends north into the mountains as far as Tracy City. Near the junction is Sewanee (alt., 1,867 ft.), the site of the Episcopal University of the South, where there is a hotel and pleasant village. Six miles brings you to Monteagle, on the top of the Cumberland Plateau (alt., 1,931 ft.), the seat of Fairmount College, and of a sum- mer school on the Chautauqua plan, called " Monteagle Assembly." The village is in the midst of highly attractive scenery, has chalybe- ate and freestone springs, and pure water pumped up from a great spring, and piped to the village and Assembly grounds, and filling a great stone swimming-pool. The Assembly (founded 1883) provides for lectures, classes, Bible study, entertainments, and an instructive and pleasant season lasting during the whole summer. Abundant accommodations, $20 to $45 a month. Tracy City, the terminus of this branch, and Beersheba Springs, eighteen miles beyond, are also mountain health resorts. The lower part of this railway line was never free from soldiers and fighting from end to end of the Civil War. It was always the dependence of one army or the other, and every mile of it, almost, was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt by the soldiers, engineers, and work- men who alternately possessed it. Rosecrans left Bragg undisturbed along Duck River (see above and also page 94) until midsummer (1863). The Confederate line then stretched in heavily fortified camps from Shelby ville, through the rugged hills about Wartrace Station, and down the railroad to a central fortress at Tullahoma. On June 23d Rosecrans began strategic maneuvers, while Burnside approached Bragg's rear from East Tennessee. Menaced and out- flanked he abandoned this strong position without serious fighting, and following the railroad and destroying the bridge at Bridgeport, retreated to Chattanooga, whither he was slowly followed by Rose- crans' army through the mountain passes. 96 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. Having reached tlie southern slope of the Cumberland Mountains at Stevenso7t, Ala. (pop., 900; Stevenson, $2), where it is joined by the Memphis & Charleston Railroad, the road turns sharply north- east along the Tennessee River, crosses at Bridgeport, and enters Chattanooga along the western base of Lookout Mountain. Route 20.— Memphis to Chattanooga. Memphis (pop., 65,000; Peabody, $3.50; Gayoso, $3; Clarendon, $2.50) is, next to Nashville, the most populous city in Tennessee, the only river port of consequence, and the most important one between St. Louis and New Orleans. Here converge, on the Arkansas side of the Mississippi River, railroads from St. Louis and Cairo, Kansas City and the West, and Little Rock and the Southwest, crossing upon the bridge built in 1892; and, on the eastern side, into the city itself, come no less than seven railways, making ten in all. The city is thus connected directly with every trade center in the West and South, and is upon the great river highway besides. It therefore enjoys strong advantages for trade, and is prospering and growing steadily by this means, as well as somewhat by the devel- opment of manufactures. Of cotton alone about 800,000 bales are handled annually, largely upon the levee, which presents one of the liveliest and most entertaining commercial pictures in the United States. Here are the huge compresses and cotton-seed-oil mills, an inspection of which is recommended to the visitor. Memphis is a handsome city, and contains creditable public buildings, principally grouped about Court Square, which contains a fine monumental bust of Andrew Jackson; the large company of tame squirrels that animate this park form a widely noted feature of the city. Electric cars interchange traffic all over the city, and extend their lines far into the suburbs, to Raleigh (8 m.), a pleasure resort with a large hotel; to the National Cemetery (5 m.), where 13,918 Union soldiers are buried, including 8,818 unknown, and to the fine race course. In addition to the many regular Mississippi and Ohio River packet lines, steamers ply to interior points up the rivers and bayous of Arkansas and Northern Mississippi, affording interesting trips, espe- cially to sportsmen. Memphis is connected with Chattanooga by the Memphis & Charleston Railroad. Leaving Memphis, the M. & C. train moves directly east, through Grand Junction at the intersection of the Illinois Central Railroad. WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 97 (Route 30), and through Middleton, junction of the Gulf & Chicago Rd., and then swerves southward into Mississippi at Corinth, a village at the crossing of the Mobile & Ohio Rd. (Route 29), which was a point of great strategic importance in the early part of the Civil War, on account of its railway and river connections, and was twice fiercely contested for. Grant's successful army, early in 1862, was concentrating for an attack upon the Confederates, who had retired within strong fortifica- tions at this little village of Corinth, where a National Cemetery, with 5,719 interments and a cannon monument, remains as a sad memento of the sequel. Grant's advance had reached the northern bank of the Tennessee at and near Pittsburg Landing, about twenty miles north- east of Corinth, but the roads were extremely soft, and large portions of the army were delayed. Taking advantage of this, the Confed- erate commander, Albert Sydney Johnston, moved out in force and attacked the Union army with great determination. The first assault was at Shiloh Church, and, as frequently happened in that part of the war, victory the first day was with the Southern troops, who forced the Union lines back to the Tennessee River, where the onset was checked, after a day's battle unexampled in the West at that time for the numbers engaged, the losses, and the fury of the fighting. Sherman and McPherson here had their first opportunity to show the North their qualities as commanders, and Grant established firmly the reputation he had won at Fort Donelson. The Southern general, Johnston, was killed, and Beauregard succeeded to the Confederate command. The next morning Grant, reinforced and encouraged, steadily pressed Beauregard back with great losses, recovered all the lost ground, and compelled his enemy to retreat to their entrench- ments around Corinth. The total losses (killed, wounded, and prisoners) on both sides exceeded 20,000 men. The battle-ground is called Shiloh by the Confederates and Pitts- burg Landing by the Federals. The United States Government has recently established a National Park at this place, and a railroad, eighteen miles long, is now under construction from Corinth, north- east, to the battle-ground and park. After the battle of Shiloh, General Halleck took command and besieged Corinth. The armies were now increased until Halleck had about 120,000 men and Beauregard about 50,000. In this and all other statements of strength of armies in the Civil War, it must be remembered that the Confederate method of counting excluded all commissioned officers, musicians, hospital attendants, etc. , counting only muskets; while the Union method included every man expected to go into action. Halleck gradually closed in on the works, until May 29th, when Beauregard evacuated the place and retreated along the M. & C. Rd. toward Chattanooga. This campaign is regarded 7 98 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. by some historians as the disastrous turning point of the war for the Confederates; and, in the death of Albert Sydney Johnston, the South lost, perhaps, its ablest commander. This, however, was by no means the end of Corinth's experience of war, nor even the worst of it. During the succeeding summer (1862), the Confederates made a studied attempt to regain Tennessee and Kentucky. Bragg (Conf.) moved north into Kentucky, opposed by Buell, (Un.) while Sterling Price (Conf.) moved north from Missis- sippi to support him in West Tennessee. He was met and checked by Rosecrans at Iuka(9 miles east), September 19th, and withdrew to the southeast. Rosecrans was then posted at Corinth, which he fortified as well as he could by several redoubts, the remains of two of which. Fort Williams and Battery Robinet, are still visible, northwest of the railway station. Price and Van Dorn (Conf.) then united their forces into an army of about 22,000, and moved upon Corinth, hoping to overcome it and open a way to the Ohio River. After preliminary fighting, the main attack was delivered from the northwest, on October 3 (1862), and resulted in driving all Rosecrans' forces (about 16,000) inside his inmost fortifications, close around the village. Confident of victory, the Confederates renewed the attack next morning, assaulting the lines and the batteries with the most splendid courage ; but Rosecrans handled his troops so well, and they resisted, often in hand-to-hand encounters, so resolutely, that before night the enemy was utterly routed. He fled south and was followed for many miles, and Rosecrans declared that had he not been recalled, in spite of his protest, that whole Confederate army might have been dissipated and Vicksburg captured with little difficulty; but Grant tells us that, had he done so, instead of taking Vicksburg he would have been overtaken and captured or destroyed by superior forces concentrated upon him. The names of many stations along this part of the line will recall incidents of the war, and these rolling woods, fertile cotton-planta- tions and corn-fields, will yield ' ' relics " of the strife for years to come, luka is also known by its iron and sulphur waters, which are not only used at the pretty springs here, but widely distributed. Alabama is now entered, with the crossing of Bear River, and the Tuscumbia Valley is followed through Courtland, where, at the bridge over Nance Creek, a fight occurred on July 25, 1862; and through Cherokee (scene of two battles) to Tusciunbia. This is a pretty village (pop., 3,000 ; Parshall, $2), noted for an immense spring yielding 17,000 cubic feet of pure water each minute. It was the scene of a brisk fight November 13, 1862, and on April i, 1863, when Gen. G. M. Dodge swept the railroad to this point and cap- tured here a large quantity of rolling stock ; it was here (1863) that Streight's dare-devil raiders started on their tour of devastation to Rome, Ga. ; and it lay in the path of Hood's advance (who. encamped IV£S TERN RA ILROAD RO UTn S. 99 here three weeks in November), and of his subsequent retreat and Thomas' pursuit during the winter of 1864 and 1S65. (See Route 28,) The Birmingham, Sheffield & Tennessee River Railroad comes in two miles east of Tuscumbia from Birmingham, by way of Jasper and Russell ville, and passes on to Sheffield i^o^^. , 2,000; New Sheffield, $2), a wide-awake town of recent growth, on the bank of the river, having five iron furnaces and ten manufactories. A mile farther up the river, and three miles north of Tuscumbia, with which it and Sheffield are connected by rail, is South Florence, at the southern end of the bridge across the Tennessee into Florence (pop., 6,000; Commercial, $2), the county seat of the old settled and rich county, Lauderdale, and a town that has sprung into importance as a manu- facturing and cotton-spinning place within the last decade. It has great enterprise, many industrial and commercial advantages, a pleasant, healthful situation, two or three collegiate institutions, and bids fair to become one of the most prosperous cities in this richly endowed region. A steamer of the St. Louis & Tennessee Packet Company ascends the river to this point from its mouth, leaving Paducah, Ky., every Saturday, and returning from Florence once a week, as circumstances permit. Bailey Springs is a well-known resort seven miles north. Florence was Hood's point of departure for his " invasion of Tennessee," in November, 1864. (See Route 28.) From Tuscumbia the Memphis & Charleston Railway strikes straight east (43 m.) to Decatur {yo-p., 7,500 ; Hotel Bismarck, Ameri- can, each $2), at the intersection of the L. & N. Rd. Between this point and Florence the Tennessee is interrupted by islands and shallows, the worst of which were the Muscleshell Shoals, a short distance above Florence. These stopped navigation, except at very high water; but a canal has now been completed around them, permitting large steamers to ascend even to Chattanooga at any stage of water. A steamer plies tri-weekly between Decatur and Guntersville (Wyeth City, p. 222), connecting there with steamers for Chattanooga and way landings. The descent of the river by boat is a pleasant experience. Huntsville (pop. , 12,000; Huntsville, $3; McGee's, $2) is a market and manufacturing town of growing importance. Three of the largest cotton mills in the South are located here ; and the situation of the city, at the southern extremity of the Cumberland Mountains, in a beautiful and healthful situation, which has made it a social and educational center. Monte Sano, the lofty hill, three miles eastward, has been a summer resort, The line 100 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. now winds through green defiles, which thirty years ago were crack- ling daily with the sound of raiders' rifles, and bends northward up the beautiful Tennessee Valley to Stevenson, where it- enters upon the line of the N. C. & St. L. Rd. Route 19 joins it, crosses the Ten- nessee River at Bridgeport, and reaches Chattanooga through Look- out Valley, A through sleeping-car runs between New York and Memphis over this line and Route 1 5 . Chattanooga, Chickamauga, and Lookout Mountain. Chattanooga (pop., with suburbs, 45,000; Lookout Inn, I3.50; Read, $3.50; Stanton, $3) occupies a tract of low, level ground (an ancient flood-plain) along the eastern bank of the Tennessee River, just above its great Moccasin Bend. The river comes nearly straight southeast down to this point, where it breaks through the Cumber- land Mountains. North of the city, across the river, is Walden's Ridge, with the lower Stringer's Ridge in front; south of the city and river-bend. Lookout Mountain, apparently (but not really) contin- uous, save for the river-break, with Walden's Ridge; eastward is a long and much lower ridge, parallel with the Walden and Lookout ranges, called Missionary Ridge; on the farther side of it flows the Chickamauga; between it and Lookout Mountain, south of the city, IS the valley of Chattanooga Creek, and west of Lookout Mountain, between it and the Sand or Raccoon Mountains, which continue Walden's Ridge southward into Alabama, is Lookout Valley. Having fixed these points of topography in mind, and remembering that all the ridges and valleys extend in a northeast-southwest direction, the visitor will have no difficulty in comprehending the landscape and the geographical relations of the stirring events it has witnessed. The altitude of the city is about 700 feet, the climate equable and rather dry and bracing, exceedingly hot in summer, with infrequent snowfalls in winter, and killing frosts rare before October or after March. The valley is healthful, and a change of climate, when needed, is obtain- able in the adjacent mountains at little cost of time or money. The flatness of the ground prevents any great picturesqueness in the town itself, which has some pleasant residence streets, fine churches, and good schoolhouses, including Grant University, with 400 students; but little otherwise to reward the sightseer, unless he is interested in war history. For him, the National Park Commission (p. Ill) has done much. "The lines of the old fortifications have been carefully traced, and their various salients and angles defined. WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 101 . . . The headquarters of the corps, division, and brigade com- manders of both armies have been sought out, and the military prison, the hospital where the wounded from the battle of Chicka- mauga were cared for, and the officers' hospital used during the siege, have also been designated by descriptive tablets." Of these the most important are the following: Fort Cafneroft, on Cameron Hill, a lofty knoll on the river-side of the town, whence a comprehensive view is obtained; this fort was a battery of loo-pounder Parrott guns, 200 yards south of the point. Also on this hill were Fort Mihalotzy, now 221 Prospect Street; Battery Cooledge, west of the latter; Redoubt Carpenter a?id Lookout Battery, on the site of the old water-works, and Redoubt Crutchfield {or Fort S/iendan) on the south extension of the hill, 137 E. Terrace Street. Fort Sherman included the interior line of forti- fications, from Redoubt Putnam, E. 5th and Walnut streets, and around Brabson Hill to Battery Bushnell, at the northwest corner Payne and Lindsay streets. Brabson Hill was a signal station, pro- tected by Ltinette O'Meara, East 5th and Lindsay streets. Fort Creig/iton (or Wood), East 5th Street, facing East End Avenue. Fort Lytle (the "Star Fort"), College Street, south end of College Hill. Fort Negley (or Phelps), south of Montgomery Avenue, west of Rossville Road. Fort Erivi7i, northwest corner Gilmer and C streets. Battery Me A loon, knoll near the mouth of Citico Creek. Redoubt Jones, on an elevation called Stone Fort, the present site of the new marble post office, loth and Market streets. Of the Headquarters marked, these may be mentioned: Grant, 316 Walnut Street and no ist Street; Sherman, no ist Street; Sheridan, southwest corner E. Terrace and Gillespie; Army of the Cumberland (Rosecrans, Thomas, and others), 316 Walnut Street; Bragg (Conf. Army), Dr. B. Loveman's residence, E. 5th Street, east of Georgia Avenue. The Presbyterian Church, then standing on Market Street, was occupied by Gen. J. B. Steadman and the Adjutant-General's staff; the military prison was at police headquarters, Market and 4th streets; the schoolhouse on Gillespie Street was a hospital, and the officers' hospital was at Poplar and West 5th streets. The indiistrial aspect at Chattanooga is the foremost feature of the modern town, and will reward study on the part of investors as well as sightseers. Market Street is the principal business thorough- fare, on which are the Central and Union railway stations, and elec- tric tramways by which cars are sent from between 5 th and 9th streets to all parts of town and far into the suburbs. The furnaces, mills, and factories are upon the river front and in the southern suburbs. Chattanooga, at the eastern base of the Cumberland Mountains, lies on the border of the great Alleghanian field of bituminous and 10^ GUIDE to SOUTHEASTERN STATED. coking coals. These mountains also yield iron, copper, zinc, lead, manganese, aluminum, and various other minerals and useful earths; a variety of fine building stones ; clays for pottery, drain-tiles, fire- brick and house brick, and a great amount of timber and forest products. Statistics of the Board of Trade (1894) show 1,125,000 tons of coal mined annually, 375,000 tons of coke made, and 172,250 tons of pig iron cast within the Chattanooga district. The sawmills receive annually over 25,000,000 feet of rafted logs (chiefly yellow poplar), which are here converted into lumber. There is, besides, a large export of raw materials. The capital employed in actual industries within the town, according to the U. S. Census Report of 1890, was $6,675,000, and there are stated to be now in Chattanooga 114 industrial corporations, with a combined capital exceeding $30,000,000. The farm products, reported by the Board of Trade, within an area of seventy-five miles around the city, are roundly as ' follows: Corn, 30,000,000 bushels, wheat, 3,250,000 bushels; oats, 4,000,000 bushels; cotton, 150,000 bales; tobacco, 450,000 pounds ; small fruits, berries, and vegetables to the value of $175,000; much live stock is raised for export. Among the principal manufactories are twenty-three iron furnaces, rolling mills, and steel works, eight cotton mills, and a great number of diversified factories. This development has taken place almost entirely since the late war, which revealed the local advantages to the Northern men who have since furnished the greater part of the capital invested in its mines, manufactures, and railroads, and is due principally to the natural excellence of the situation on the river, at a gap in the mountains, and at the junction of radiating valleys which descend to it from several directions. It is the natural gateway between the North and South, west of the Alleghany Mountains. In this matter of transportation the Tennessee River has now become of the greatest significance. For more than 500 miles above Chattanooga this river and its tributaries are navigable for rafts and light-draught boats, while the completion of the government canal around the Muscleshell Shoals (p. 99) opens the river to navigation from this city to the Mississippi. This fact has tended to greatly reduce and keep down railway freight charges, and to cheapen correspondingly the cost of manufactures and the shipments of raw materials and manufactured products back and forth. There is every reason to suppose that the growth and prosperity of the place will steadily continue. Exeter szo7ts of great interest may be made in various directions, by railroad or steamboat, to springs, mountain resorts, battlefields, etc., described elsewhere. A trip by steamboat on the Tennessee would be a novel experience to many. The steamers of the Tennes- see River Transportation Company leave Chattanooga on Mondays and Fridays, at 10.00 a. m., for Shellmound and South Pittsburg, Tenn., Bridgeport, Guntersville, Decatur, Ala., and way-landings; WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 103 returning, will leave Guntersville every Tuesday and Saturday, at 6.00 a. m. They leave for Kingston and way -landings and Hiawassee River points, on Wednesdays. lo.oo a. m., and Saturdays, 6.00 p. m. Good fishing and shooting are to be had in their season within a rea- sonable distance. A pretty picnic trip is down the river to Shell Mound and the big Nickajack Cave, at the base of Signal Mountain, the southernmost height of Walden's Ridge, long occupied as a signal station by the Union troops. The electric cars over the bridge (2,700 feet long) to the northern suburb, Hill City, take one to the summit of Stringer's Ridge, Forts Wilder and Hill, and a very fine view. It was along this road, at the base of Stringer's Ridge, through the front of Hill City, that Sherman marched his troops from Brown's Ferry, at the western side or foot of Mocassin Bend, up to the mouth of Chickamauga Creek, where he crossed on his pontoon bridge, to attack Bragg's right wing, on the northern extremity of Missionary Ridge. The first and foremost excursion, however, should be to Lookout Mountain. — This is the easternmost lofty ridge of the Cumberland Mountains, begins here in a bold bluff 1,343 feet high (2,126 feet above the sea*), and extends south westward, with occa- sional breaks, some sixty miles. It consists of stratified rocks (carboniferous), limestones near the base, fossiliferous and penetrated by many seams and caverns, some of great depth, above which are coarse sandstones capped with con- glomerates. It was originally heavily timbered, and is still, for the most part, covered with second-growth woods, but the surface is so rugged and the soil so light that little farming has ever been attempted, except upon the lower slopes. The usefulness of the mountain has therefore been, and is likely to remain, chiefly as a pleasant suburban residence for the citizens of Chattanooga and neighboring lowland cities, and as a summer pleasure and winter health resort, for which it is naturally well situated and has been admirably prepared. Lookout Mountain is reached by three routes: (i) The Old Car- riage Road.— Driving out of Chattanooga by Whiteside Street, the iron bridge over Chattanooga Creek is crossed, and the gradual ascent of the mountain soon begins with constantly widening views. The * These, and all other exact altitudes in this book, are those given in Henry Gannett's " Dictionary of Altitudes," published by the United States Geological Survey as Bulletin 26 (second edition, 1890). The altitude of the Union Railway Station in Chattanooga is given as 783 feet. 104 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. height that overlooks Cascade Glen is worth a moment's pause. A short distance farther, through a pretty depression, brings the car- riage to the main mountain-road which steadily ascends through St. Elmo and up its southern and least precipitous side to the sum- mit, offering a constant succession of fine prospects. This ascent requires two or more hours. (2) Electric Cars to the Incline. — An electric car leaves Broad and Seventh streets, Chattanooga, every ten minutes for St. Elmo (see below) and the foot of the mountain. Here an inclined road, up which cars are drawn by a stationary cable, carries passengers half-hourly to the Point Hotel, a large family hotel immediately under Pulpit Rock on Lookout Point; thence a narrow-gauge railway winds around the crest to Sunset Park and Natural Bridge Hotel. These are in a picturesque region having a fine outlook to the west, and are annually resorted to by a large convocation of spiritualists. Many citizens make this place their permanent summer home. The road continues to Lookout Inn. Fare, round trip, 50 cents. This inclined road is regarded as an extraordinary feat of engi- neering. It is 4,500 feet long, has a lift of 1,700 feet, or nearly one in three at the steepest place, and is, therefore, much steeper than the Alount Washington incline. The car is built in the form of an inclined plane, with one side of glass for the sake of the view. Julian Ralph, who wrote an entertaining and valuable description of the mountain and city, in Harper's Magazine, for March, 1895, speaks of the descent as ' ' rolling like a ball sent back to the players in a bowling alley." (3) By Steajn Cars. — The Chattanooga & Lookout Mountain Railroad runs trains at intervals of about two hours, in summer, be- tween both the Central and Union depots and Lookout Inn. The road makes a long detour in Chattanooga Valley, passing Forest Hill Cemetery and ascends the southern slope of the mountain above the village of St. Elmo (said to be named from the novel by Augusta Evans, written here), which is the oldest and among the pleasantest of the city's suburbs. Rising steadily, the road curves about the northern end of the mountain, passing the Craven House and over the battlefield "above the clouds," and on the northern side, over- looking the city and the valleys of the Tennessee and Lookout Creek, turns by a switch-back and commences a new ascent, which carries it under the rocks upon which is perched the Point Hotel, beneath the Incline, and then back around the southern side of the crest, far above St. Elmo and its early course, until it can turn a third time WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 105 and climb up to the station at Lookout Inn. This is a very inter- esting spiral ascent of about fifteen miles, affording grand views at every stage of progress. The time is something over an hour. Round trip, 50 cents. At certain times, through sleeping cars are hauled up to Lookout Inn, for the convenience of their passengers. Lookout Inn stands about a quarter mile south of the bluff -point of the mountain and facing the east. In front are handsomely cleared and ornamented grounds opening an unlimited view and the morn- ing sun to the piazzas, but to the south and west the natural groves of oak and pine are standing penetrated by roads and paths. No building is in sight except the interesting Museum of War Relics, which does not obtrude itself upon one's notice. The hotel is a handsome, substantial structure, the first story of which is of vStone, 365 feet in length and four stories high, surmounted by towers, whence a wonderful prospect, embracing the whole circle of the horizon may be obtained. The interior as well as the exterior is attractive. Its grand hall is exquisitely decorated and furnished, and the dining rooms and parlors opening into it are excellent examples of modern taste and elegance as applied to such apartments. There are accom- modations for 500 guests, and the rooms are spacious and airy, with fine outlooks for all. The water used is pumped from copious springs, the sanitary arrangements appear to be good, lighting is by gas and electricity, the fare excellent, and nothing seems to have been neglected in provision for the health, comfort, and amusement. The company owning the hotel also own all the northern part of the mountain, and many families have summer cottages there or per- manent homes. The hotel will hereafter remain open during the winter, believing that many persons will be glad to resort to the mountain for their health, especially those having weak lungs, and that it will be a welcome stopping-place for tourists en route back and forth between the North and Florida. Point Lookout.— Many places of interest are to be visited near the hotel. Immediately in front is a jutting rock overlooking Chatta- nooga Valley, and south of it the Confederate " signal rock," whence they telegraphed by flags to the soldiers on Missionary Ridge over the heads of the Union army. Ten minutes' walking takes one to Point Lookout, the brow of the bluff facing the city, where the valley of the Tennessee is spread beneath the eye as if it were a map, and the whole battlefields of Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge are in view. Here every little rock and point has its name and story. The reconstructed Craven's House is just below, and the place where Hooker's men fought their way to the base of the cliffs, and then scrambled up and planted their flag on the point, is just at 3-our feet. Remains of the battery from which Bragg shelled the city can be 106 G UWE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. traced; but the best preserved work is Fort Stanley, a large earth -fort in the woods just south of the inn. The landscape needs no expla- nation in view of what has already been said, further than a reference to the accompanying map ; and a moment's glance at the shape of the peninsula inclosed by the Tennessee will make plain why the name Moccasin Bend was given to this loop-like curve. Wauhatchie (p. 220), and the whole " line of supplies" opened by Grant for the beleaguered army, can be plainly surveyed down the river on the left. Standing on this commanding point, where every part of the contested field, except that of Chickamauga, is under the eye, one can read to best advantage the story of The Chattanooga Campaign of 1863. The Tennessee Valley and this river-gap constitute a natural high- way between the Southwest and the North. The Indians so regarded it, and made this valley a meeting-place, where the earliest traders set up their frontier-posts and called it Ross' Landing. Peaceful relations were early established with the Indians (Creeks and Chero- kees). As early as 181 7, a religious mission-station was planted on high ground six miles east of the landing, whence the name Mis- sionary Ridge. A little town gradually grew up, which was made a military post in 1836, and in 1838 a town was laid out and the present name given it, and, five years later, it nearly secured the position of State capital, but was beaten by Nashville. When the Civil War opened, it was a flat, muddy, trading town of some 3,000 people, and at once became a center of Confederate military operations and a depot of supplies. Here Bragg started on his expedition into Ken- tucky in 1862 (p. 93), and hither he returned, to reorganize and again advance on his way into West Tennessee (p. 94). A second time, after the battle of Murfreesboro, his hosts returned, defeated, to this valley, and for the first time Rosecrans' Union army followed him and entered the town of Chattanooga, while Bragg, outflanked, led his army south into Georgia. Rosecrans started in pursuit, and both armies maneuvered for strategic positions, bringing on a sharp fight on the 13th, below Rossville. Rosecrans, however, was avoiding any battle, and trying his best to concentrate his scattered columns, one of which was west of Lookout Mountain. Bragg» unaccountably, inter- fered very little with this purpose, and not until the 15th did he decide to take the offensive and start northward. He then made an effort to Western- railroad routes. m reach his enemy on the i8th, but failed, and Rosecrans gained a day of time of the utmost importance to him. On the morning of the igth, the armies faced one another along the Chickamauga, twenty miles south of Chattanooga, Rosecrans' right at Crawfish Springs, and his left at the McDonald house. Rosecrans had about 55,000 men all told, and Bragg not less than 70,000, for besides thousands of pris- oners who (upon a technical excuse, which has never been adjudi- cated) violated the parole they had given at Vicksburg and Port Hudson, and hastened to join his ranks, Longstreet's whole corps had come from Virginia, arriving on the i8th, a fact of which Rose- crans was unaware. "By 10.00 a. m."(of October 9, 1863), says a succinct account written by Mr. Geo. C. Connor of Chattanooga, of this dreadful Battle of Chicka7)iaugay "the engagement was general; now the Confederates were routed", only to rally and hurl back, with sickening slaughter, the hosts of the Union. Until late in the afternoon the conflict raged, when suddenly an ominous lull fell upon the dead, the dying, and the weary. Not a gun was heard for over an hour. Rosecrans was deceived into the belief that his enemy had been sufficiently punished for one day, and began the execution of strategic movements; but scarcely had the hour closed when a furious charge by the Confederates threw the Federal lines into confusion, and had it not been for the twenty guns of Hazen, on the Rossville road, the battle would have closed with a most telling victory for the Confederates. The galling enfilading fire of this artillery compelled the Confederates to fall back as the sun went down beyond distant Lookout. When darkness enveloped the bloody scene, arrangements were made for burying the dead and caring for the wounded by both sides. Bragg re-formed his lines and placed them in direct command of Polk and Longstreet. Polk was ordered to strike at dawn of the 20th, but the dense fog which en- shrouded the field prevented his executing the order until nearly 9.00 o'clock, a serious delay, which cost Polk his command. When he did begin the assault, the entire line was quickly involved. Back went the Confederate right, but almost instantly rallied. Charge after charge attested the heroism of the combatants. The onslaught on the Federal left ceased w^hen the irresistible charges of the Con- federates broke their center. Then, it is said, Rosecrans made some fatal mistakes. Certain is it that he telegraphed to Washington his army was defeated. Thomas maintained his ground, though for- saken by his demoralized comrades, and gallantly withstood the charges of the Confederates, now flushed with victory. On the knoll, above the Snodgrass farm, he ordered the artillery to be massed, and there he determined to make his last stand. Strong lines of infantry skirted this elevated spot, which resisted with almost unparalleled gallantry the assaults on their front and flanks. As the sun began to go down behind the tall pines on that Sabbath afternoon, the 108 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN ST A TES. storm burst anew around that Snodgrass knoll. Charge after charge was repelled with terrible slaughter to both sides. The dead lay in heaps along the green slopes, and the groans of the wounded rent the air as darkness enveloped the enraged combatants, and Thomas sorrowfully began his retreat to Rossville, leaving the field in posses- sion of the victorious Confederates." Bragg had won the battle, but the prize of it, Chattanooga, had escaped him. This he hoped to obtain by a siege, and to that end took possession of Lookout Point, Missionary Ridge, the railroads and rivers through the gap, and every approach except one long and difficult wagon road over the Cumberland Mountains. His intention was to starve the Union army into surrendering, since he dared not assault their numerous and splendidly armed fortifications, and he might have succeeded had he not been compelled, after a few days, to reckon with Ulysses S. Grant instead of the discredited Rosecrans, who was sent to Missouri, while Thomas was assigned to the com- mand of his corps. "Fighting Joe" Hooker was sent with two army corps from Virginia to swell the western forces. Grant, Sherman, Sheridan, and other leaders have all written extensively of the events which followed, but one of the best condensed accounts of the successive Battles upon Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge is that by Rossiter Johnson, in "The Story of a Great Con- flict," which is as follows: Grant arrived at Chattanooga on the 23d of October [1863], and found affairs in a deplorable condition. It was impossible to supply the troops properly by the one wagon-road, and they had been on short rations for some time, while large numbers of the mules and horses were dead. Grant's first care was to open a new and better line of supply. Steamers could come up the river as far as Bridgeport, and he ordered the immediate construction of a road and bridge to reach that point by way of Brown's Ferry, which was done within five days, the " cracker line," as the soldiers called it, was opened, and thenceforth they had full rations and abundance of everything. The enemy attempted to interrupt the work on the road ; but Hooker met them at Wauhatchie, west of Lookout Mountain, and after a three- hours' action drove them off. Chattanooga was now no longer in a state of siege, but it was still seriously menaced by Bragg's army, which held a most singular position. Its flanks were on the northern ends of Lookout Mountain and Mission Ridge, the crests of which were occupied for some distance, and its center stretched across Chattanooga Valley. This line was twelve miles long, and most of it was well intrenched. Grant ordered Sherman to join him with one corps, and Sherman promptly obeyed, but as he did considerable railroad repairing on the way, he did not reach Chattanooga till the i5tb of November. Meanwhile, Longstreet with 20,000 troops had WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 109 been detached from Bragg's army and sent against Burnside at Knoxville (p. 83). After Sherman's arrival, Grant had about 80,000 men. He placed Sherman on his left, on the north side of the Ten- nessee, opposite the head of Mission Ridge ; Thomas in the center, across Chattanooga valley ; and Hooker on his right around the base of Lookout Mountain. He purposed to have Sherman advance against Bragg's right and capture the heights of Mission Ridge, while Thomas and Hooker should press the center and left just enough to prevent any reinforcements from being sent against Sherman. If this were successful, Bragg's key-point being taken, his whole army would be obliged to retreat. Sherman laid two bridges in the night of November 23d, and next day crossed the river and advanced upon the enemy's works ; but he met with unexpected difficulties in the nature of the ground, and was only partially successful. Hooker, who had more genius for fighting than for strictly obeying orders, moved around the base of Lookout Mountain, and impregnable heights. His men climbed the steep in the rain, clearing away abatis as they went, disappeared in a zone of mist or cloud that hung around the mountain, and made their way to its very summit, where they routed the enemy, taking many guns and prisoners. This action is famous as Hooker's " battle above the clouds." That night battalions were seen crossing the disk of the rising moon. The next day, the 25th, Hooker was to pass down the eastern slope of the Lookout Mountain, cross Chattanooga Valley, and strike the left of Bragg's position as now held on the crest and western slope of Mission Ridge. But the destruction of a bridge by the retreating enemy delayed him four hours, and Grant saw that Bragg was weakening his center to mass troops against Sherman. So with- out waiting longer for Hooker, he ordered an advance of the center held by Thomas. Under the immediate leadership of Generals Sheridan and Wood, Thomas' men crossed the valley, ran right into the line of Confederate works at the base of Mission Ridge, followed the retreating enemy to a second line half-way up the slope, took this, and still keeping at the very heels of the Confed- erates, who thus shielded them from the batteries at the top, reached the summit and swept everything before them . Bragg's army was completely defeated, and its captured guns were turned upon it as it fled. He himself, after vainly trying to rally the fugitives by riding among them and shouting, " Here's your commander ! " being answered derisively, "Here's your mule !" was obliged to join in the flight. In these battles the National loss was nearly 6,000 men. The Confederate loss was about 10,000, of whom 6,000 were prisoners, and forty-two guns. Bragg established the remainder of his army in a fortified camp at Dalton, Ga., and was soon superseded in command by Gen. Joseph E. Johnston. Granger and Sherman were sent to the relief of Burnside at Knoxville, and Longstreet withdrew to Virginia. The Chattanooga campaign was perhaps the most picturesque of any in the war, and was full of romantic incidents, 110 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Minor Features of Lookout Mountain. — Good roads lead along the crest and slopes of the mountain to certain curious and interesting places, of which the most interesting are along the eastern brow, from three to five miles south of Lookout Inn. Good carriages can be hired at the inn stable, and the roads are fair. Three miles brings you to the head of Cascade Glen, above St. Elmo, and a fine prospect east- ward. Here are the few remains of the immense wooden buildings erected by Thomas for a hospital and soldiers' sanitarium, in 1864-5, at a cost of $285,000. After the war these buildings were purchased by Mr. Charles F. Roberts of New York, who attempted to found a school there, but, legal difficulties arising, the project was abandoned and the Roberts American College in Constantinople was endowed instead. Ascending the ridge and passing " the chapel," you reach a collection of strangely water-worn rocks called Rock Village. Here is Payne's Spring (excellent water), and a wide outlook may be obtained by a little climbing, A few rods farther brings you to a second collection of quaintly worn and broken rocks, with arches, narrow passages, and other semblances to a ruined town — a favorite resort for picnic parties. Here were the first camps of the Confed- erates, and later of Federal soldiers, four regiments of regulars holding this position until the end of the war. A mile beyond Rock City is Chickamauga Bluff, which gives a full view of the Chicka- mauga battlefield and park, and much more that is beautiful besides. Farther in this direction, but reached by different roads, are Eagle Cliff, High Point, Georgia Springs, Lulah Lake and Falls, etc. The interesting region about Sunset Rock and Natural Bridge, reached by the Narrow-gauge Railroad, has already been spoken of. Missionary Ridge and Chickamauga Park. The visit to Missionary Ridge is of great historical interest. The National Park Commission has bought Sherman's battlefield (page 109), at the north end of the ridge, beyond the suburb Sherman Heights and the Southern Railway tunnel. His earthworks have been preserved. It has also bought and erected an observation tower upon De Long's Point, and built another tower on the crest of the ridge at the end of Montgomery Avenue, where Bragg's headquarters were on the days of the assault. Electric cars run to this crest of the ridge, where the heaviest Confederate entrenchments are shown, and where Sheridan's famous charge took place. Along the top of the whole length of the ridge runs a perfectly constructed road, the WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. .111 Government Boulevard, leading, at its southern end, into the road to Chickamauga Park. The electric cars pass several places of interest on the way to or from Missionary Ridge, including the National Soldiers' Cemetery (13,000 burials, 4,963 unknown) and Orchard Knob, a wooded knoll, now reserved as a Federal park — where Grant, Thomas, and their staffs stood and watched the battle on the afternoon of November 23d. The Chickamauga a?id Chattanooga National Park, dedicated with impressive ceremonies on September 18 to 20, 1895, originated in a suggestion at the reunion of the Army of the Cumberland in Chat- tanooga, in 1889, when the Chickamauga Memorial Association was formed, with a board of directors composed of both Federal and Con- federate officers. The proposal was to purchase the field of Chicka- mauga, make it a national park, mark the positions of all the troops on both sides, and place suitable marks and monuments all over the Chattanooga battlefields. Congress made liberal appropri- ations, and all the States promised to cooperate. A commission was appointed, and the result is an admirable and enduring monument to the men who fought in these valleys. The first step was the purchase of the battlefield, an area of about ten square miles, part of which is still cultivated by tenants. " In this tract, which covers the ground over which the principal movements of both armies were made on September 19 and 20, 1863, the Park Commission has accomplished much in the way of restora- tion. Aside from transforming the rough country roads into smooth boulevards, no modern park improvements have been permitted, the aim of the commission being to restore, as nearly as possible, the natural face of the tract, so that it shall preserve the appearance of the actual battlefield. To this end the disused roads of 1863 have been reopened, the lines of breastworks have been replaced, and the movements of the troops by brigades have been indicated by large iron tablets, giving the organization of brigades and divisions, and a brief history of their evolutions on the field. In addition to the tablets, the commission has erected eight monuments to the general officers — four on each side — who fell in the engagement. These monuments are triangular pyramids of eight-inch shells, and they stand each on the spot where the officer in question fell. " On Snodgrass Hill, at a point near Hall's Ford, and on the hill west of Jay's Mill, iron observation towers have been built, from which a comprehensive view of the entire field may be had. These are especially helpful in the study of a field which, like that of Chickamauga, is comparatively level, and so thickly wooded that no general idea of its configuration may be obtained from any point of view on its surface. 112 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. ' ' Besides the historical tablets, many guideposts have been erected along the park roads, pointing out the exact localities of the famous houses in the field — Brotherton's, the Widow Glenn's, the Kelly- house and field, Viniard's, McDonald's, the Dyer house and field, and others. At the points occupied l3y the various batteries an equal number of guns of like caliber and construction have been placed, and these, in themselves, are monuments of no mean rank. The commission has also commemorated the part borne in the battle by the regular troops, infantry, and artillery, by erecting suitable monuments at the various points where these organizations fought. " Here the work of the commission on the field of Chickamauga pauses, and that of the States begins. Costly monuments, many of them works of art, mark the positions of the various organizations, and no expense has been spared by the committees on location in the effort to define the original lines of battle and the positions occupied by the troops. So far as one may see, this work has been very successful. Not only have the committees been able to locate the principal positions occupied during the two-days' battle by a given brigade or regiment, but they have, in many instances, traced the movements of the organization from point to point on the field, and by the use of small monuments, or 'markers,' they have given a complete history of such movements, showing the time in hours." IV. RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. (i) Alabama Great Southern Rd. Continuation of Queen & Crescent Line (Route i8) to Birmingham and New Orleans. (Route 27.) (2) Chattanooga Southern Rd. This line runs along theveastern base of Lookout Mountain to Gadsden, Ala., where it connects with lines to Anniston, Calera, and southward. (3) Chattanooga, Rome &^ Columbus Rd. South through Ross- ville and McFarlane's Gap to Chickamauga Valley, across the battle- field (Lytle Station), and south through La Fayette and Summerville to Rome, Ga. (p. 126), after which it is of local importance only. (4) Southern Raihuay, (Route 22, p. 125.) (5) Westerji &^ Atlantic Rd. This is the old war-time railroad to Atlanta, more recently known as " th-e Kennesaw Route," and next to be described. Koute 21. Cliattanoog-a to Savannah. This is the through route over the Western & Atlantic Railroad to Atlanta, and the Central Rd. of Georgia, Atlanta to Savannah; it is, therefore, a continuation of the through sleeping-car Route 19, The trains of this road leave Chattanooga from the old W. & A, , or " Union," station on 9th Street, move east to the National Cemetery, and then turn north through Sherma7i Heights and around the northern end of Missionary Ridge (p. 109). It then ascends the valley of the East Chickamauga to Ringgold, in the gap of Taylor's Ridge. Here Hooker's troops were roughly handled and turned back in an attack on Bragg's flank, in November, 1863. (113) 10 114 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. A short distance east are Catoosa Springs, a well-known watering place, and Cherokee Springs are near by. Through the tunnel, under Tunnel Hill, the road enters the gorge of Mill Creek, called Buzzard's Roost, with the Rocky Face cliffs on the right, and reaches Dalton (pop., 3,000; Hotel Dalton, Lewis, each $2), a moun- tain town (alt., 775 ft.), the stronghold of Johnston at the open- ing of the Atlanta campaign (see below). Dalton is also reached by the Southern Ry. (Route 15b) from Cleveland, Tenn. The line con- tmues south, with Rocky Face at the right, for some miles, when these palisades are broken by a gap and succeeded by a new line of heights named Chattoogata Mountains. Here, at Tilton, the Conne- sauga River is reached and followed to Re sac a, where Oostanaula River is crossed. Here the scenery is of a peculiarly romantic and beautiful character; backward on the right (northwest) is seen the lower end of the Chattoogata range, and the Horn Mountains are directly west; between these two ranges lies Snake Creek Gap, by which the Union army approached and compelled Johnston to evacu- ate Dalton and Resaca. Calhoun and Adairsville are passed, and Kingston, where a road comes in from Rome (p. 126), is quickly reached. Over this part Sherman's advance met with only weak opposition; but a great battle was prepared for them near Cass Station, just below Kingston, which the Confederates did not deliver for strategic rea- sons. Cartersville (pop., 3,200; Hotel Shelman, $2) is a pretty market town, with a branch railroad to the southwest, and over- looked by Pine and other mountains (the southern extremity of the Smoky Mountains). The Etowah River is crossed just beyond, and the road enters the gorge of Allatoona Creek, where Corse's famous defense of a position occurred on October 5, 1864, whence originated the world-wide song, " Hold the fort, for I am coming," suggested by a signal message sent to the beleaguered garrison. Severe and constant fighting culminating at Kennesaw Mozmtam (alt., 1,809 ft.), around the northern base of which the train winds its way just before reaching Marietta. Marietta (pop., 3,500; Kennesaw, $2.50; Elmwood, $2) is an inter- esting old town of rising importance, and a favorite place of sum- mer residence. It is the seat of the Georgia Military Institute, and the terminus of the Marietta & North Georgia Rd. (p. 84). The next station is Smyrna, beyond which the road sweeps around the northern base of Mac Rae's Hill and crosses the Chattahoochee River RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTAXOOGA. 115 at Bolton. The country is now more open, is thickly planted with cotton fields, and several small stations are passed before the train reaches Atlanta, 152 miles from Chattanooga. Sherman's Atlanta Campaign. Within a day's march from almost any point along the line of this Western & Atlantic Railroad one may view a battlefield— the scene of at least one desperate conflict between Union and Confederate forces during the last eighteen months of the Civil War. Ofttimes a series of engagements, in which every foot of ground was?'hotly con- tested, occurred simultaneously, or nearly so, within gunshot of each other. Not less than thirty-three of these now historic places can be found, representing more than fifty days' hard fighting, carried on sometimes at such short range that swords, bayonets, and revolvers were freel}^ used. Two-thirds of these battlefields are in close prox- imity to the railroad tracks, either on the right or left, or on both. Traveling from north to south, it may be noted that about half- way between the stations at Chattanooga and Boyce, to the right, was fought the battle of Missionary Ridge (p. 109) on November 25, 1863. This was followed, next day, by severe encounters at Chicka- niaiiga station and Graysvzlle, and on the 27th 2X Ringgold. These sharp conflicts, on the left of the tracks, were between pursuing and retreating troops. The Union soldiers, under Sherman's orders, were closely following the army of Bragg, moving south after his disastrous defeat at Chattanooga. Part of the Confederate force, during the retreat from Chattanooga, fought bravely at Tunnel Hill , about midway on the railroad between Ringgold and Dal ton, at which latter place Bragg's army rested and was allowed the winter for recruiting and fortification, while the Union forces in their fortress at Chattanooga spent the time in preparation for that movement southward, which constituted the campaign of Atlanta (April to July, 1864) and the first stage of Sherman's " March to the Sea." It will be better to give a connected description of this; and readers will be greatly aided in understanding it, and the relation of each incident to the country through which they are traveling upon the cars, if they will consult a map, so as to fix in their minds the relative posi- tions of the railway stations and towns mentioned; the geographical course of the Oostanaula, Etowah, and Chattahoochee rivers; and examine the situation of the famous Rocky Face Ridge, Snake Creek 116 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Gap, and the gap at Buzzard's Roost, also Pine, Kennesaw, Lost, and Brush mountains. On May 6, 1S64, when General Sherman, under the approval of General Grant, set out from Chattanooga with a force of 98,797 men and 254 guns — consisting of the Army of the Cumberland under Thomas, the Army of the Tennessee under McPherson, and the Army of the Ohio under Schofield — to operate against Atlanta, Thomas' forces were at Ringgold, McPherson's army occupied ground at Gordon's Mill, about eight miles to the southwest, and Schofield's command held possession of the locality near Red Clay, ten miles northeast. By drawing a straight line between Gordon's Mill and Red Clay it will be seen that the Union army faced Dalt07i, the headquarters of the Confederates, at a distance of about fifteen miles. This latter force, consisting of about 50,000 men, including 10,000 cavalry and 120 guns, was in three corps ; Gen. Joseph E. Johnston held the chief command. Generals Hardee, Hood, and Polk being his corps commanders. The Confederate position was well selected, Rocky Face Ridge standing as an almost impregnable bar- rier between the two opposing bodies. General Sherman, finding a front attack inadvisable, determined, if possible, to reach Re sac a by a flank movement and occupy it, thus forcing Johnstor± to leave Dalton and protect his interests to the southward. To accomplish this without suspicion, a feint was ordered on the enemy's front by way of a gap at Buzzard's Roost. Thomas, detailed for this duty, met with determined resistance from cavalry on reaching the gap. These mounted men were driven back, and the Fourth and Twentieth corps of Thomas' army occupied parts of the ridge, but encountered such determined opposition that they could not hold them. While this maneuver was in progress Schofield attacked the enemy's right flank. Thus their attention was for the time diverted from McPherson's army, which was marching rapidly west of the railroad toward Resaca. Snake Creek Gap was gained and held, but the Confederates offered so vigorous a resistance that McPherson forebore to advance until Sherman's arrival. On May nth, Sherman had practically his whole force in motion toward Resaca. Johnston, however, ascertained the true state of affairs early enough to prevent its occupation at that time by Union troops. He ordered the evacuation of Dalton, and reached Resaca by good roads before Sherman's men were well clear of Snake Creek Gap. RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 117 On May 15th, there was a general engagement before Resaca. All except two divisions of the Union command particijDated. Orders were issued for the bridging of the Oostanaula with pontoons at Lay's Ferry, five miles southwest of Resaca, A division of the Sixteenth corps was sent to threaten Calhoun; and Garrard's cavalry was dispatched toward Rome, with orders to destroy the railroad between Calhoun and Kingston. After two days of fighting, Johnston, on the night of the 15th, was forced from Resaca and across the river, losing a battery, which Hood had advanced beyond its supports. Union troops followed closely in pursuit. One of Thomas' divisions was sent to Rome, where several guns were captured, and mills and foundries destroyed. During the pursuit of the Confederate main body, a sharp engage- ment took place at Adairsville. The pursuers destroyed the State Arsenal at that place, drove the enemy steadily before them, and, on reaching Cassville, about five miles east of Kingston, found Johnston and his men apparently ready and willing to make a stand. But the next morning it was learned that the retreatmg army had determined to occupy a safer and stronger position. The Etowah River had been crossed during the night, the bridges burned, and a formidable position taken up near the Allatoona Pass. General Sherman allowed his men to rest a few days, then, by moving to Dallas, by the right, he again endeavored to outflank his opponents. Dallas is about eighteen miles nearly due west of Marietta. This move was discovered by the enemy, and led to battles at New Hope Church, about three miles northeast of Dallas, on May 25th, 27th, and 28th. On the latter date, Allatoona Pass was enveloped and Johnston forced to retire. On June 9th, the Union army moved toward Big Shanty. On reaching that point, it was found that the enemy had established batteries and signal stations on the summits of Kennesaw. Lost, and Pine mountains. Marietta was covered by batteries on Great Kenne- saw Mountain. The right of Johnston's line, ten miles in extent, was at Brush jMountain, his left at Lost Mountain. The Chattahoo- chee River lay some fifteen miles to the south of the Confederate position on Kennesaw. From June 14th to 17th heavy fighting occurred. Johnston was forced to relinquish his positions on Pine and Lost mountains, and the whole Confederate force was gradu- ally concentrated on and about Kejinesaw. Operations in this vicin- 118 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. ity were much hindered by a nearly continuous, heavy downfall of rain, which lasted for three weeks. On June 27th, Sherman ordered a general assault on Kennesaw. After a terrific conflict, the Union troops w^ere repulsed, losing 3,000 men, the Confederate loss being about one-fifth of that number. Sherman then resolved to execute another effective turning move- ment. On July 2d, McPherson's army, aided by Stoneman's cavalry, moved to the right toward Nickajack Creek and Turner's Ferry, southwest of Gilmore station. To save his army, Johnston was compelled to abandon Kennesaw, and, at dawn on July 3d, the summit of that mountain w^as occupied by Union troops, who could distinctly see the enemy moving swiftly through and beyond Mari- etta to the Chattahoochee. During the pursuit which followed, engagements took place at Rtiff's and Sinyrjia, this last occurring on July 4th. Within six da^^-s Johnston was pushed beyond the Chattahoochee, where he took up a position of great strength behind a line of previously prepared entrenchments covering the city of Atlanta. Sherman, feigning to cross the river by the right, actually did so by the left, completing the move July 7th. He then faced the enemy at Peach tree Creek. At this time an important change occurred in the Confederate camp. Johnston's generalship, in preferring to fight behind para- pets so that his inferior force might be protected as long as possible for a final effort within the trenches at Atlanta, did not please the Confederate civil authorities at Richmond. He was superseded by Hood, who preferred to take positions, when he could, for fighting in the open, even against such odds as demanded an almost reckless sacrifice of human fighting material. Sherman knew this personal characteristic, expected the new gen- eral to prove restless within an entrenched position, and was not sur- prised when, on July 20th, Hood made a sally on Hooker's corps, which had just crossed Peachtree Creek. For four hours a hand-to- hand conflict ensued. Then the assaulting force was driven back, losing 4,796 men, the Union loss being 1,710. The Union com- mander was not loath to follow up the victory. He pushed the foe so hard that Hood soon fell back to the main lines of Atlanta. Two days later, Hood sallied forth and attacked the Army of the Tennessee, on the left of the Union line, about two miles southeast of Atlanta. He was repulsed, with a loss of 8,499, the Union loss RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 119 being 3,641. This was the first battle of Atlanta, during which McPherson fell. On the 28th, Hood, on discovering a flanking move in the right of Sherman's line, made another sally against Logan's corps. This battle-ground, at Ezra Chu7'ch, is about the same dis- tance southwest of Atlanta as the scene of the first battle of Atlanta is in the opposite direction. Again Hood's troops were driven back, losing 4,632 men, their antagonists' loss being 700. During August there were many engagements in the vicinity. By August 28th, Sherman's forces, except the Twentieth corps, had taken up positions around Atlanta. On September ist, Hood evacuated the city and next morning Slocum took possession. Efforts were made to entice Sherman out of Georgia by breaking communications, but they failed. On November 15, 1864, Atlanta was in flames, its citizens were scattered, and the great commander had started on his March to the Sea, described on page 124. The City of Atlanta. Atlanta (pop., with suburbs, about 100,000). Hotels: Aragon $3 to $5, (Am. and Eur.), restaurant and summer roof -garden attached JKimball, $2.50 up; Markham, $2 to $3; AVeinmeister's (Eur.), $] Arlington, Ballard. Belmont, Grant, Marion, Talmadge, %i to $2.50. Restaurants: Aragon, Vignaux, Union Depot, Imperial. Legal hack-fare, one-horse cabs, 25 cents each person; two-horse, 50 cents. Atlanta, the "Gate City," has been the capital of Georgia since 1868, and is the largest city and most important railway center of the State. It is the highest populous town (1,100 feet) between the Atlantic and the Great Plains, and has an excellent climate. The plotting of the city is confusing, from the fact that independ- ently arranged additions have been made, and that country roads originally converging here have been kept as streets, and have become the main thoroughfares, radiating irregularly from the center of the city at The Five Corners (one block north of the Union Rail- way Station), where all the electric street-car lines intersect, and the cars start in every direction. The broad, depressed avenue devoted to the railways and Union station divides the city into "north " and "south" sides, connected, at the principal streets, by viaducts over the railway tracks. The business center is, therefore, close about the railway station, the best stores being at The Five Corners and on Whitehall Street. An old and pleasant residence district will be found on the south side, in the vicinity and south of the capitol; but 120 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. the finest residences and most modern growth are northward and west- ward. The State Capitol occupies an elevated site two blocks south of the Union station, and is a handsome new structure surmounted by a dome. It contains a statue of U. S. Senator Benjamin H. Hill, many portraits of Southern leaders in war and politics, and a valua- ble library (50,000 vols.), where are stored historical archives reaching back to Colonial times. The view from its dome (11.00 a. m. to 2.00 p. m.) is very extensive and interesting. The Governor's ' ' mansion " is on Peachtree Street, at the northeast corner of Cain; opposite it, in the midst of large ornamental grounds, is the Capital City Club. The United States custom house and post office are at Marietta and Broad, streets, in front of which is an impressive statue of Henry W. Grady, formerly an editor of the Atlanta Constitutio7i, and famous as an orator and publicist. At the corner of Hunter and South Pryor streets, near by, are the City Hall, County Court House, and Cham- ber of Commerce. The city gets water from the Chattahoochee River, and the works may be visited. Among several admirable office buildings that of the Equitable Insurance Company is most lofty and costly ($1,000,000). The Grand Opera House and Hotel Aragon would be notable in any city, and the hotel is deserving of general praise. The Young Men's Christian Association has a fine building, on the corner of Auburn Avenue and North Pryor Street, and a branch opposite the railway station. A similar organization, the Young Men's Library Association, has a library of 20,000 volumes on Marietta Street. The city is well supplied w4th churches (98) and public schools, and has the large Clark University, the important Technological Institute, Atlanta University, and several theological and other professional schools. The mercantile business of the city is carried on by some 225 mercantile houses, whose transactions are placed at $150,000,000 annually, while $35,000,000 worth of manufactures are produced in the six or seven hundred factories — largely cotton goods, iron products, railway cars, machinery, and furniture. A single firm here is said to have dealt in cotton to the extent of 5,000,000 bales in 1894. Atlanta is paved with granite blocks to the very limits in many directions, making the driving about it a rough experience. An exception exists in Peachtree Street, which leads northward, and has the finest houses; here the pavement is asphalt, but it is spoiled for pleasure-driving by the electric cars and a constant traffic of carts, delivery wagons, and country vehicles. Suburban drives are pleas- RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 121 ant in several directions, and the roads fair in dry weather. The stranger can do all his sight-seeing very comfortably, however, by means of the electric cars, which run to great distances and connect by transfers into long round trips. One such, in particular, labeled nme-7m7e circuit, gives a comprehensive view of the North Side. The Capitol Avenue and W. Peach tree line, and the line to McPher- son Barracks give a good idea of the South Side. Another line runs east, eight miles, to Decatur, Ga. , and the Soldiers' Home. In the northern suburbs, the most interesting things are the grounds and remaining permanent exhibit of the Exposition of 1895; the Gentle- men's Driving Park; Ponce de Leon Avenue and Springs, the latter an amusement park. Lakewood is a similar resort at the old water works, four miles west. Easterly lie several interesting suburban residence " parks," including Grant Park, the most popular pleasure ground, containing gravel drives, shaded v^^alks, lakes, and the Gress Zoological Gardens. It stands on the ground occupied by Sherman's camp, and includes Fort Walker, which is preserved in its original form, with guns mounted, etc. Not far distant is McPherson Park, with a monumient to McPherson. This is the field of the battle of Atlanta (July 22, 1864). The field of the battle of Peachtree Creek (July 19th) maybe reached by train on the Seaboard Air-Line. McPherson Barracks, four miles outside the city southward, reached by electric cars and the Central Rd. of Georgia's trains, is the second, largest United States Army post in the country, and very interesting. It is now occupied by the Fifth Infantry, whose dress parades (daily at 6.00 p. m.) are brilliant spectacles. Railroads at Atlanta. (i) From Chattanooga: (a) Western & Atlantic Railroad (Route 21); {b) Southern Railway (Route 22). (2) From Knoxville: Marietta & N. Georgia Railroad (p. 84). (3) From Charlotte and Eastward: Piedmont Air-Line, South- ern Railway (Route 15). (4) Yvovn. Athens and Raleigh: Seaboard Air-Line (Route 12). (5) Yvova. Augiista: Georgia Railroad (p. 49). (6) To Macon and the South: {a) Central Railroad of Georgia (see below); (<5) Southern Railway (Route 22. See also page 125). (7) To Columbus and the South: Central Railroad of Georgia (below). (8) To Montgomery, Mobile, and New Orleans: Atlanta & West Point Railroad (Route 25). (9) To Birmingham and west: Southern Railway (Route 24). Route 21 (continued) — Atlanta to Savannah. The Central of Georgia's train turns southward from the Union station. At McPherson Barracks the hilly country around Atlanta is 122 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. left behind and the flatter region of Middle Georgia entered. The population is numerous, and cotton everywhere seen. The first important station !■& Jonesboro (pop., 800). Here one of the hardest battles of the Atlanta campaign was fought. After the destruction of the West Point Rd., on August 28th, the Union army moved to this line of railroad to effect its destruction. Howard's corps reached the Flint River, half a mile west of Jonesboro, where he was met by half of Hood's army under Hardee. A severe fight followed on the 3ist^ when Hardee's effort to capture Howard's rude breastworks failed, and he hastily retreated to his works. These were attacked in the afternoon by the Union forces and taken, including a whole brigade of Confederates, the remainder of the defeated army fleeing to Atlanta. Howard's cavalry then raided southward, destroying the railroad in places, almost as far as Macon. Griffin, the next station, is a junction of lines south to Columbus and west to Newman and Rome. At Barnesville a line leads south- west to Thomaston. Here the road turns more to the east and, after passing through Forsyth and Summerfield, reaches Macon, 103 miles from Atlanta. The whole of this railroad was destroyed in 1864 by the Union forces under Sherman, the story of whose " march to the sea " along this route is told below. Macon (pop., 25,000; New Lanier, $3; Brown, $2.50; Park, special rates) is the most important town of Middle Georgia, and a railway and business center of considerable importance. It occupies a central posi- tion in the most fertile and densely populated part of the State, and has no competitor within 100 miles, while numerous railroads and a somewhat navigable river fetch and carry its trade. It has more than doubled in population since 1880, and prosperity has kept pace. This is mainly due to mercantile advancement. Macon has 'nearly 100 wholesale houses, whose trade amounts to nearly $50,000,000 annually. Cotton is extensively dealt in, the annual receipts being about 250,000 bales, local crop, a third of which is retained in the warehouses. There are three cotton compresses, nine dealers in cotton, and three cotton-cloth factories. Bibb County (of which this is the capital) and its neighbor, Houston, are the leading cotton-producing counties of the State. This region also produces a great quantity of fruit, which is becoming an important item in Macon's trade. A circle with a radius of fifty miles comprises a remark- able area of productiveness in this respect, especially of peaches, and includes some immense orchards upon the ridgelands at Griffin, Forsyth, Marshallville, Fort Valley, Barnesville, Danville (1,000 acres of peach trees in one lot), and elsewhere. The product is now worth $1,000,000 annually, and is steadily growing, with a prospect THE FEDERAL BUILDING — Macon, Ga. Hotel Lanier The Leading Hotel of Macon Centrally located, Near the principal public buildings and business houses. ONLY HOTEL IN THE CITY HAVING STEAM HEAT AND PASSENGER ELEVATOR. Under the management of B. W. SPERRY, Late Proprietor of the Brown House. RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 123 of direct exportation to Europe. The lumber interest is very impor- tant here. About 25,000,000 feet of sawed yellow pine is now handled at Macon annually, a large portion of Avhich is consumed here in the planing mills, furniture factories, carriage works, and car shops. Good clay exists, and supports seven brick and tile works, while one of the most extensive breweries in the South, a candy factory ship- ping a large product, several foundries and machine shops, and many smaller concerns contribute to the city's wealth. There are seven banks. The tax valuation is $15,000,000, and the bonded debt $568,800. There is probably no more solid and wealthy city in the South. Macon has not much to show the mere sightseer, though plenty to interest the deeper student. Its streets are broad and well shaded, and the city has good public buildings and several statues and monu- ments, including one to the founder of the Central Railroad of Geor- gia's system of. railways, and the industrial development it promoted. Here began the railways of the State, a charter having been received in 1833, under which was begun the construction of a road to Savannah in 1836. Great difficulties were encountered, but trains began running between Macon and Savannah in 1843, out of which has grown the speedily-developed system of the State, to which the city has contributed, besides lands and privileges, $3,300,000 in cash. The city early became the residence of many old families of social rank and wealth, who built beautiful homes along the Ocmulgee (on which formerly lines of fine steamers ran regularly to the sea); and the town early became a center of education and refinement. This character it keeps. Its public schools are among the best in the South, and it has several institutions for higher education. Here is the Wesley an Female College, chartered in 1S30, and " the first col- lege in the world to confer academic degrees on women." Mercer University, for young men, is a more recent but flourishing institution. Still more recent are the Roman Catholic (Jesuit) St. Stanislaus Col- lege for boys, and the Mount de Sales Academy for girls. There is a Public Library, excellently conducted; two State Asylums for the Blind (white and colored), and several benevolent institutions and hospitals exist. Several pretty parks adorn the city and its delight- ful suburbs, the principal of which is Cejitral Park, on the river bank, which contains the buildings for the annual fair, and a race course and racing stables of wide repute. The New Lanier House occupies a conveniently central position, has steam heat, an elevator, and various modern appointments and luxuries which recommend it to travelers. 124 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Railroads diverge from Macon in every direction, connecting it with Augusta (p. 49), Savannah, Florida, and the west and north. These number eleven in all, and give the city an immense business advantage. All except the Southern Railway combine in a Union station on Fourth Street, near the hotels and street cars; the Southern station is a mile distant, but reached by electric cars. Continuing the Central Railroad's route to Savannah, the train leaving Macon crosses the Ocmulgee River and then turns west to Gordon, where a branch leads north to Milledgeville and Augusta (Route 13b). Continuing across the swampy valley of the Oconee River, it reaches Tenille, at the intersection of a line from Augusta to Wrightsville, then passes to the headwaters of the Ogeechee River and descends that attractive stream through Millen, where the road from Savannah diverges to Waynesboro and Augusta. The remain- der of the line is southwest down the eastern bank of the Ogeechee to Savannah, 432 miles from Chattanooga, 294 miles from Atlanta, and 191 miles from Macon by this route. Sherman's March to the Sea. After Gen. Wm. T. Sherman had returned from his chase of the Confederate forces under Hood, in the autumn of 1864, he caused every non-combatant in Atlanta to leave the city, sent Schofield's part of his army north to assist Thomas in Tennessee, and with them all — the sick and disabled and all useless equipage and baggage — withdrew his garrisons from the Western & Atlantic Rd. . etc. (p. 109), which was utterly destroyed, to the ruin, of course, of all his commu- nications, and prepared to march through the heart of the Confed- erate States, subsisting on the country, and destroying the means of communication and source of supplies from the west to Lee's army in Virginia. His ob j ective point was undecided, but apparently it was Augusta and a course directly east. His army numbered about 62,000 men all told, with sixty-five field guns, and Generals Howard and Slocum as wing commanders. The cavalry formed an independ- ent active arm under Kilpatrick. The business part of Atlanta was burned to the ground and abandoned on November 1 6th. The gen- eral order of march was by four parallel roads, with foragers collect- ing food on both sides, and the cavalry protecting the flanks against Wheeler's Confederate cavalry (the only organized enemy then in Northern Georgia), and seizing upon strategic points, or destroying arsenals, foundries, etc. The general line of this (the Central) rail- RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 125 road was followed by the right wing, and the track, bridges, and sta- tions were completely destroyed, while the left wing tore up a large part of the railroad to Augusta, and then, turning south, swept through Covington and Eatontown to INIilledgeville, which was occu- pied, without serious opposition, in spite of the frantic efforts made by Confederate leaders to arouse the citizens and country people to a determined defense; the people knew that general devastation of private property would follow their probably ineffectual resistance and declined to risk it. The arsenal and a few public buildings were destroyed there, and the columns moved on (November 24th) south- westward. Meanwhile Sherman's left wing had had a lively fight with the Confederate garrison of Macon, and beaten them back into their en- trenchments; but there was nothing to be gained by taking that city, and, when its railway approaches had been thoroughly destroyed, it was left in the rear. During the same time the Union cavalry was pressing the Confederates back in the region of Millen and Waynes- boro, keeping up the delusion that Augusta was the objective point. Then (November 3d) Millen w^as left behind, its deserted prison-pen and public buildings in ashes, and the whole army moved down the railw^ay and Oconee Valley toward Savannah. Hardee and McLane had some Confederate troops in the way, but they were driven back without any battle or pause. The weather was fine, the roads good, the troops were abundantly fed, healthy, and merry, and every one reached the outskirts of Savannah, and camped in a great semicircle about the city on December loth, in the highest confi- dence and spirits. The blockading squadron and the special ships sent to meet Sherman — who for two months had not been heard of at the North — were at once signaled to, the capture of Fort McAl- lister opened communication between the army and the fleet; and on December 20th the city was abandoned by the Confederates, who fled into South Carolina before the single road (Coast Line) open to them could be closed. Sherman's total loss by death on the whole march was only 108 men. For Savannah, see p. 18 Route 22.— Southern Railway. Chattanooga to Brunswick, Ga. This route is the continuation of Routes 15 and 16, and of the Queen & Crescent Sleeping Car Route 18. The road passes east U 126 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. from the Central Station in Chattanooga, through Missionary Ridge by the tunnel under Sherman Heights, to Ooltewah Junction, on the main line to Knoxville ; then turns south and descends the valley of the Connesauga through Cohutta (branch to Cleveland, Tenn., by which certain cars pass directly to and from Knoxville), the station for Cohutta Springs, ten miles east. At Dalton (p. 114) the Western & Atlantic Rd. is crossed, and the line then runs south through a hilly, sparsely-settled region, close along the base of Rocky Face and Chattooga mountains, and down the Oostanaula River to the conflu- ence of the Oostanaula and Etowah rivers (forming the Coosa), where it comes to Rome, a flourishing city (pop. 7,000; Armstrong, $3; Central, $2; Rome, $2) among the hills, and in the midst of the " cotton belt." It has important cotton mills and other factories, and was a military depot of importance to the Confederates, who had iron- works and factories for arms and ordnance there, the destruction of which was the ultimate object of Streight's Union cavalry expedition from West Tennessee in April, 1863; but his ammunition and horses gave out before reaching the place, and he was captured. After the capture of Atlanta it was occupied by Sherman, and all its public works destroyed during his pursuit of Hood, who passed that way on his projected invasion of West Tennessee. From Rome the line trends gradually eastward, crosses the low divide between the Coosa and Chattahoochee rivers, and descends to the valley of the Sweetwater River. Here, at Austell, it joins the line from Atlanta to Birming- ham, Ala. (Route 24), and enters Atlanta from the northwest. Near Austell Junction (i^^ m. by branch line) are the old and widely-known Bowdeii Lithia Springs, where the Sweetwater Park hotel and baths can accommodate 500 guests, amid all the conveniences and appointments of a modern first-class watering place. The situa- tion upon a pine-clad ridge (alt., 1,200 ft.) gives a climate resembling that of Aiken, S. C. (p. 47), and there is much in the surroundings to amuse and interest the visitor. The waters are highly efficient in the relief of dyspeptic and urinary diseases, and are not only utilized at the springs, but are extensively exported. This is the site of the Piedmo7it Chant aiiqiia, an educational institution, having large orna- mental grounds, summer residences, and buildings for the summer school which is held here annually; the amphitheater will hold 6,000 persons. It is the principal Georgian rival of the original " Chautau- qua," in Western New York. For Atlanta, see p. 119. From Atlanta southward the Southern Railway pursues a route RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 127 eastward of Route 21. The first noteworthy station is McDonough, where the Georgia Midland & Gulf Railroad branches off to Colum- bus, ninety-eight miles. Warm Springs on this line, eighty-five miles from Atlanta and forty -two miles from Columbus, is a noted resort among the Pine Mountains of Meriwether County. The springs are very copious, the water is used for both bathing and drinking, and is highly recom- mended for rheumatic and hepatic troubles. Various cold mineral springs are near by. The hotel ($3) is large and w^ell managed. The Chalybeate Springs, seven miles south, have a local reputation. The next station of importance is Jackson (22 m.), beyond which is Flovilla, station for Indian Springs, three miles west by tramway. Indian Springs is an old established health and pleasure resort in the pine uplands, having a variety of medicinal waters. The princi- pal hotel is The Wigwam ($3), a large, new house with all modern appliances. The Calumet and other smaller hotels and boarding- houses also exist. Quail-shooting is fine in this neighborhood during the winter, when many Northern invalids find a refuge here. Beyond Flovilla the road approaches the Ocmulgee River, and follows its western bank through an agricultural and fruit-growing country to Macon (88 m., p. 122). From Macon southwest this route passes through the almost continuous cotton plantations and pine lands of Middle and Southern Georgia, where there is little to inter- est the eye. It produces great quantities of lumber and naval stores, will grow fruit well, and gives a rich yield of corn or cotton where properly cultivated. The Ocmulgee River is followed to West Lake, where the line trends eastward. At Empire the road from Dublin to Hawkinsville is crossed; the latter is something of a summer resort, on the river, fifteen miles west. The Ocmulgee River, when clear of obstructions, is navigable for large steamboats from its mouth to some distance above Macon. Before the invention of railroads it was extensively so used, and has continued an important means of transportation in its lower portion. The railroads, however, killed commerce, and the river above Hawkinsville became encumbered with snags. Recently the chan- nel has been cleared, $500,000 have been spent upon it by the Federal Government; steamboats are now running to Macon, and the stream bids fair to develop into an important competitor with railway traffic for heavy freights and local custom. A trip upon it would be an interesting and novel experience for the leisurely tourist. Eastman (pop., 1,100; Lanier, $3.50; Ashburn, $2.50) is the county seat of Dodge, fifty-eight miles south of Macon, on the rolling uplands 128 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. (alt., 362 ft.) which cross the State from the region of Aiken to that of Thomasville, and has the same open pine woods and salubrious climate. The village is therefore a favorite place of residence and a summer resort for coast people. There are several hotels and board- ing-houses. South of Eastman the road gradually descends to the sw^ampy forests along the Little Ocmulgee River, and at Lumber City crosses the Great Ocmulgee, which, ten miles east, unites with the Oconee to form the Altamaha. Small stations io\\o^?7■ to Jess up, at the intersection of the Plant System between Savannah and Waycross (p. 51), an hour's ride beyond which is Everett, w^here the Florida Short Line (p. 53) is intersected, and sleeping-cars for Jacksonville are switched off and sent south. Tw^enty miles more brings the traveler to Brunswick, 430 miles from Chattanooga. (For Brunswick and southern connections, see p. 23.) Distance from Washington to Jacksonville, via New FloridaiShort Line and Everett, 986 miles; via Asheville, Chattanooga, and Everett, 1,131 miles. Route 23.— Suwanee- River or Tifton Route. This is a through sleeping-car route between St. Louis» Nashville, and Jacksonville, and also from Atlanta over the Central Railroad of Georgia, Georgia Southern & Florida Rd. , and Plant System. From Nashville Route 19 is followed to Chattanooga, and Route 21 to Macon. From Macon the line strikes due south, west of the Ocmulgee, with a branch westward from Sofkee to Thomaston and Lagrange. The Echeconnee River is crossed near Wellston, and the high pine-clad ridge forming the watershed between the Ocmulgee and Flint rivers is followed for 100 miles. At Cordele, a new and bustling village, the Central Railroad of Georgia's line, from Savannah to Montgomery (p. 21), is crossed. Americus is now thirty-one miles west and Albany thirty-five miles southwest. Tifton, forty-one miles farther south, is at the crossing of the Brunswick & Western Rd. where the through cars diverge and proceed to Brunswick and Jacksonville, via Waycross. The Georgia Southern & Florida Rd. continues south from Tifton to Valdosta, where it crosses the Savannah, Florida & Western Rd., then enters Florida, crosses the AUapaha River, and later the Suwa- nee River, and proceeds to Lake City (p. 214) and Palatka (p. 143), through the heart of Western Florida. RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 129 Route 24.— Atlanta to Birniing^liani, Memphis, and Greenville, Miss. The Southern Railway continues its route fifteen miles west over its own line to Birmingham, Ala., and thence by the Kansas City, Memphis & Birmingham Rd. to Memphis with Pullman cars between Memphis and New York. Passing Lithia Springs (p. 126) the line proceeds west through the fine fruit-growing districts of Douglas and Haralson counties, where Hood retreated after the fall of Atlanta, and Sherman tried in vain to catch him. At the source of the Tallapoosa River, near the boundary of the State, is Talla- poosa Springs (Lithia Springs Hotel, $3), one of the fashionable resorts of the South, having a thoroughly modern and fully furnished hotel ample for 250 guests. The road then enters Alabama near Edwards- ville, and reaches Anniston (pop., 10,000; Calhoun, $2; Wilmer, $2), an important railway junction and iron-making town. This is one of the new manufacturing towns built up, largely by outside capital, since the war. It is beautifully situated among the last foothills of the Blue Ridge, at the healthful altitude of 690 feet above the sea, and is well built and sightly in every way. Near by are exten- sive deposits of brown iron ore, which are here smelted in two large furnaces, and a large part of the product is worked up on the spot, in foundries and iron factories. There are extensive flour mills and car-building shops. Besides this, Anniston has become a prominent cotton mart, and here is one of the largest of Southern cotton mills, which has been exporting its output to China for many years. The city contains fine streets and residences, and is espe- cially proud of its church of St. Michael and All Angels, and of its Nobles Institute for boys and girls. A few miles west of Annis- ton the Cumberland Mountains are entered and the central part of the coal-producing and iron-making district of the State is trav- ersed to Birmingham. To Memphis the traveler proceeds over the line of the Kansas City, Memphis & Birmingham Rd.. northwesterly through Alabama and Northern Mississippi. Its most interesting points will be found mentioned under Routes 29, 30, 31, and 32. This is a sleeping-car route between Kansas City and Jacksonville, via Atlanta, Everett (Route 22), and Florida Short Line (Route 14). Westward of Birmingham the route of the Southern Railway is very direct through Western Alabama, via Fayette to Columbus, 9 130 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Miss., (p. 223). That State is then crossed via West Point, Winona, CarroUton, Greenwood (on the Yazoo River), Indianola, and Rich- mond — a part of the State described under Routes 29, 30, and 31 Route 25.— Atlanta to New Orleans. This is the continuation o£ the sleeping-car Route 15, over the Atlanta & West Point Rd., an old line running southwest through the best agricultural and fruit districts of Western Georgia and terminating on the Chattahoochee River at West Point. Here the route crQSses into Alabama and soon reaches Opelika (partly destroyed by Union cavalry in 1864), at the intersection of the direct road between Birmingham, Ala., and Columbus, Ga. It then follows the Western Railway of Alabama to Montgomery (p. 229), whence it may be continued by Route 28 directly, or via Selma and Route 26, to Mobile and New Orleans, and also connects straight west, through Selma, Ala., and Meridian, Miss., to Jackson, Vicksburg, and Shreve- port. La. Route 26.— Chattanooga to Central Alabama. Lines controlled by the Southern Railway give a picturesque, route into Central Alabama, to which brief reference ought to be made, although no tourist resorts of much consequence are reached by it. This follows Route 22 to Rome, Ga. (p. 126), a short distance beyond which (at Atlanta Junction) it diverges to the left and enters Alabama at Bluffto7i, at the foot of Tecumseh or Signal Moun- tain, a new iron-smelting and manufacturing town having a neat little hotel (The Signal, $2.50) and exceedingly pleasant sur- roundings. The American Arms Company and a car-wheel factory are the largest concerns outside of the mines at the "iron-bluffs," cliffs of brown ore near by, and the smelting furnaces they supply. A few miles farther is Piedmont {^oy>.^ 2,000; Hotel Piedmont, $2), another new town, at the old " Cross Plains" where turnpikes inter- sected, surrounding furnaces and factories, and in the midst of lovely scenery, with Mount Weisner (alt., 1,928 ft.) in the background, north- ward, and Colvin's Mountains west. This valley was overrun by the army of Hood and Sherman's scouts in the early autumn of 1864, but no battles were fought here. This end of the railroad was not then built, but the more southern part was in operation, with a northern terminus at Blue Mountain Station, where Hood couldreceive his supplies from Mobile, and which, RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. IBl in fact, formed his base for that early part of his campaign. Early in October Hood passed northward out of this valley, crossed the Coosa near the State line, and after circling about in the corner of Georgia very skillfully, and much to Sherman's annoyance, moved back to Gadsden and then into Northern Alabama for his invasion of Tennessee, Mineral springs abound in all this part of the State, many with small local hotels, such as Walkers', near Piedmont, and Borden Springs, southward. Turning southward through Jacksonville (pop., 1,500; Tradegar Inn, $2), on the slope of Blue Mountain, the road soon reaches Aiinis- ton (p. 129). This whole region is elevated, beautiful, and healthy; but the next county south (Talladega) has long been noted as a place for summer residents and health-seekers. Talladega (pop., 2,200), twenty-four miles south of Anniston, is a railway center and county seat, which has the State Institute for Deaf Mutes and a large college for girls. Near by are the Coosa (or Talladega) Springs, at the base of Hillsbee Mountain, the Shocco Springs, and the Chandler Springs, the latter in the mountains twelve miles southwest. All these are favorite resorts with families from the southern lowlands of the State. C/uldersburg (pop., 800; New South, $2.50) is at the cross- ing of the Central Rd. of Georgia, between Birmingham and Colum- bus, Ga., and Columbiana is the county seat of Shelby, a few miles below which is Shelby Springs, in past days a fashionable and famous watering place; and then comes Calera, at the intersec- tion of the Louisville & Nashville Rd.'s main line (Route 28) to Montgomery. This is on the borders of the great Alabama coal field and thirty-one miles directly south of Birmingham, with which this line is connected by a branch from Birmingham Junction, eight miles west of Calera, making an independent Southern Railway route from Birmingham to Selma (96 m.). Our route continues west a few miles, and then turns south and descends through a forested region to the terminus on the Alabama River at Selma. Selma (pop., 8,000; Hotel Albert, $2.50) is favorably situated. The Alabama is navigable to its mouth and for a long distance above the city. Westward stretch the low " black" cotton lands; eastward the higher pine region. It receives and ships, therefore, great quantities of cotton and lumber, and its radiating railroads give it commercial advantages, and, in antebellum days, made it the abode of wealthy men whose fine old homes remain to please the visitor by their strange picturesqueness. 132 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. The Civil War greatly stimulated Selma's cloth and clothing; factories not only, but especially the foundries and machine shops, where cannon, ammunition, and arms were made in vast quantities for the Confederate service. The town, therefore, became an early object of interest to the Union commanders; but it was so far within the Confederacy and so well guarded that it could not quickly be approached, and was not captured until April lo, 1865, when Wilson defeated there the Confederate Forrest, dispersed the latter's army, and destroyed all the foundries and public property. Selma is on the great east-and-west trunk line, between Mont- gomery and Meridian, Miss., and through trains may be obtained here for Mobile and New Orleans, over Route 27. The Mobile & Birmingham Railroad also gives a direct route to Mobile, but runs only one train a day each way, without sleeping- cars. Its length is 163 miles, saving much over the routes from Selma via Montgomery or Meridian. Its course from Selma is west fourteen miles to Marion Junctio7t, on the Southern Ry., where it connects with the Southern's line northward to Marion, Greensboro, and Akron (Route 27). The Mobile & Birmingham is thus con- nected with Southern Railway lines, giving a direct course between the two cities, likely to be utilized some future day for comfortable through traffic. It course lies nearly parallel with the Alabama^ River, and a dozen miles or so west of it, along the watershed between it and the Tombigbee. The latter river is crossed at Jack- son, 100 miles above Mobile, and thence to the seaport this road pur- sues an almost exact north and south course west of the Tombigbee and Mobile rivers, passing, twenty-nine miles north of Mobile, the lately abandoned army post, formerly known as Mt. Vernon Bar- racks. It enters the Union station in Mobile. V. FLORIDA, Jacksonville and the St. Johns River. The City of Jacksonville. Population, 30,000 (permanent). Hotels (lowest rates by the day are noted here as elsewhere; prices range upward according to accommodations): St. James, 500 guests, $4; Windsor, 600, $4; Everett, 400, $3; Carletaji, 200, $2.50; Gj^and View, 100, $2; Plac/de, 100, $2.50; Ne7if Duval, 150, $2.50; Getieva, 100, $2.50; Warne7\ 50, $2.50; St. John's, 75, $2; Roseland, 100, $2; Glenada, 100, $2; ArUngton, 75, $2; River View, 60, $2; Central, 40, $1.50. Rooms (9// /j/ are furnished by the Oxford, Acme, Bristol, Bettelini's, Charleston, Traveler's, and Smith's new apartment house, from 50 cents to $1 a day. All these have restaurants in the same block. Restaiira7its, giving meals only, are the Continental, City Dining Hall, West End, and Acme. Jacksonville, not many years ago, was the central point of tour- ist resort in Florida — was " Florida," substantially, to the Northern people who began, after the close of the war, to flock thither to spend the cold months of the 3^ear. This is now changed to a great degree, and for various reasons the city has become an entrepot rather than a residence — a business, instead of a pleasure city. This is the result of its situation as commanding the commerce and growth of the State, and a consequence of the extension of trans- portation lines to more southerly and pleasant winter residences. The streets of the city have, therefore, a more commonplace appear- ance, and the hotels are filled with more transient guests, than in almost any other town of the " Peninsular " State. Jacksonville is situated on the northern bank of the St. Johns River, at the point, nearly twenty-five miles from the sea, where it makes a sharp bend from a northerly to an easterly course. The effect of the current, checked at this bend, has been to lay .down a (133) 134 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. line of shallows, or a kind of bar, which made the river fordable, and the Indians knew the place as the Cow's Ford — a name adopted by the earliest settlers. Having no special attractiveness, it seems not to have been inhabited until the English obtained possession of the country, and, with their usual colonizing enterprise, had begun to push roads in various directions from St. Augustine, and invite their neighbors to come and visit them, and to stay as long as possible — a habit the Floridans still have. One of these roads, called the King's Road, and extending to Georgia, came to this natural cross- ing place for the passage of the St. Johns; and an Irishman, named Lewis Z. Hogan, or Hogans, built a cabin on the south side of the river early in the century, and doubtless served as ferryman for chance travelers. In 1816, he married a Spanish woman named Maria Suarez, who owned 200 acres of land on the opposite bank, the site of the present city. Hogan moved to the northern bank, built a home upon his wife's land, and soon others gathered about him. In 1819 Florida became a part of the United States, and received its share of the movement of migration westward, which followed the second war with Great Britain. By 1822, there was not only a regular ferry and a tavern, but a town had been laid out and organized; but it was not until 1833 that articles of incorporation were made, and the name Jacksojiville legally applied in honor of Andrew Jackson, who had won victories at Pensacola and elsewhere in the South, and was the first governor of the newly purchased territory. As the best available seaport, quickly outgrowing both Fernandina and St. Augustine in that respect, because of the large river region tributary to it, it quickly became the business center of the State, and it at once began a trade in cutting and exporting lumber, which constantly increased in importance. The Seminole uprising in 1835 cut off, to a great extent, the farming and lumbering of the interior of the State, and the town became filled with frightened country people, who forti- fied it by means of stockades and blockhouses against attack by the Indians. But after this insurrection had been quelled trade was resumed, the lumber commerce grew, and the town had a population of 3,000 active people when the Civil War broke out in 1861. This was a ruinous experience for the little port. It was left to itself at first, but the river was blockaded, and from 1862 to 1864 the town was continually being visited and occupied for short periods by Federal troops, while between times the Confederates held possession. The mills, shipping, and other industries of the place were destroyed; many of the inhabitants, having declared their loyalty to the Union upon the arrival of the Northern troops, were carried away when these left the country, and by one side or another nearly the whole town was finally burned to the ground. These Northern warrior-visitors, however, did an unexpected service for the country. They were FLORIDA. 135 principally New England troops, and among their officers were Col. Thomas Wentworth Higginson and other influential Bostonians. They made haste to report upon the beneficial character of the winter climate of Florida, the cheapness and easy accessibility of the land, and the opportunity the State offered to the fruit grower. These soldiers were the first advertisers of Florida, and thus returned, many fold, the damage they did. Since the war, Jacksonville has prospered steadily. Its business began with the receipt and disposal of some cotton that had been concealed in the interior of the State, and was continued by a growing trade in lumber. Little cotton is now handled here; the reports of the New Orleans Cotton Exchange do not mention Jacksonville at all, and include the crop of Florida in its Georgia statistics. Yet cotton is an important factor in the resources and business of the State. The total crop reported for 1894-5, was 60,000 bales. Most, if not all, of this is of the black-seeded, long-staple, " sea island" variety, and amounts to one- third of the whole world's production of this kind, Egypt being Florida's only competitor. It is nearly all handled at Gainesville. All the cotton used in the manufacture' of spool thread by the great Scottish firm, Paisley & Co., which makes the celebrated Coats' thread, is grown in Florida, and mostly bought at Madison. Another Scotch house, the Clarks, who make the O. N. T. thread, also procures its supplies from this State ; and the head of the firm has recentl}^ purchased a large shore property, south of Tallahassee, as a winter residence. The rise of the orange industry, steadily developed into the growth and shipment of other fruits and more lately of early vege- tables ; ship-building ; wholesale trading with country merchants ; the construction and management of railways ; and latest, and per- haps most important of all, the discovery, mining, and manufacture of phosphates, have all contributed to the town's revenue, and have caused a solid, enterprising, progressive city to rise upon the ruins of the little town knocked to pieces by the Civil War. Few of its citizens, however, have any associations with Florida as far back as that. Jacksonville men are mainly immigrants from States north of the Carolinas. The city they have built, therefore, has not the appearance of the old Southern life, such as gives Talla- hassee and Mobile a romantic interest in the eyes of the stranger, but looks like a northern or western town embowered in evergreen oaks, interspersed with palmettos. The gardens are a mass of shrubbery, among which the great pink-flowered crepe myrtle trees are con- spicuous in summer; while numerous subtropical trees, shrubs, and 136 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. plants, with flowers and roses blooming almost the year round, de- light the eye of the Northern stranger in winter. The pretty park overlooked b}^ the St. James and Windsor hotels is a charming example of such a garden. Jacksonville stretches along the river side, Bay Street, the prin- cipal thoroughfare, running parallel with the stream and next to it. It is paved with brick for a mile, and lined with shops in which all sorts of goods are sold at only a slight advance over Northern prices. There are few thmgs a traveler needs which can not be bought in Jacksonville. The Union railway station is at the upper end of Bay Street, and electric cars connect it with the hotels and all principal streets. The foot of Hogan Street may be called the central point, and here are the railway offices, the wharves of the New York and up-river steamers, the banks, curio and photograph shops, and the largest retail stores. The beautiful new Federal building, a marble structure with every modern appliance, housing the post office. Fed- eral courts, and custom house, is one block north, at the corner of Hogan and Forsyth streets, in the center of the hotel district. Jacksonville's Hotels are numerous, modern, and in the main well kept. The two oldest and largest face the pretty St. James Park on Hogan Street, two blocks from Bay and one above the new post office. The St. James is the older and has been owned and man- aged for twentj^-five years by the same person, Mr. J. R. Campbell, who has a genial habit of opening his house for each season by a reception on Thanksgiving Day. It is four stories in height, fronts the whole length of the park, and provides for the comfort of the wealthiest and most exacting of winter tourists. The same degree of preparation characterizes its neighbor, The Windsor, which occupies nearly the whole of a square, its piazzas fronting 210 feet on the west side of the park. During the season of 1895-6, Warren F. Leland, of wide reputation as a hotel manager, will have charge of this house. The Everett (proceeding in the order of importance) is the larg- est hotel in the city, is built of brick, is comparatively new, and has distinctly modern furniture and equipments throughout. It is near the business-heart of the city, commands a view of the river, and gets the breeze from the salt water. The Carleton is also of brick, and overlooks the river from the lower end of the paved portion of Bay Street, a quarter of a mile rr^l FOURTEENTH I |l ^ SEASON Grand View ^ Hotel JACKSONVILLE, ^ FLORIDA FORSYTH STREET, between Bridge and Clay streets, centrally located on high and spacious grounds, commanding a view of the St. Johns River. Nearest hotel to Union Station; three blocks from Post Office and U. S. Government building. Large, pleasant rooms, single or en suite, well furnished. Hot and cold water baths. ALL MODERN IMPROVEMENTS To insure to our kind patrons the best accommodations for the money, I selected, while in New Hampshire this summer. Skilled CookS and Help from the White Mountain Resorts. RATES, $2 TO $3 PER DAY Billiard and Pool Parlor and Ten-Pin Alley in separate building. Grand View bus meets all trains and steam- ers. Baggage transfer connected with the hotel. ^ Horses and Carriages in readiness at all times. Make W^ no mistake and try the Grand Yiew. Address by letter or telegram. Open November 15th to may 1st. G. Ml. SMITH, Proprietor, TELEPHONE. Of "Chiswick Inn," White fountains, LITTLETON, N. H. From the Hotel Mail, Sept. 23, 1893. Mr G W Smith, of Chiswick Inn, Littleton, N. H., and the Grand View, Jacksonville, Fla., is officially declared to be the most popular landlord m New Hamnshire he haVing won the solid gold watch, in the votmg contest mstituted by the Littleton Republic Jcurjial. Mr. Smith received 10,862 votes agamst 9,171 for the second favorite. FLORIDA. 137 east of the others, and near the Yacht Club landing. It has sus- tained its reputation for many years. The Grand View, between Bridge and Clay streets, not far from the Everett, is centrally located and enjoys a river view. This is a real New Englander's rendezvous, a cozy family hotel run by a New Hampshire hotel man, who brings his cooks, etc., to the South with him in winter. The Placi'de, one block from Bay Street on Main, is very con- venient to the best stores, and is open the year round. It is kept by an experienced and highly-successful landlady, Mrs. N. L. Ward, and is universally praised. Good words may also be said of the New Duval, on Hogan Street, opposite the new post office, which is open through the summer and much patronized by business men. The Geneva and the St. JoJms are both one block from Bay Street, the former three blocks west, the latter one block east of Main Street. The Warner, on Laura Street, in the most beautiful residence portion of the city; and the Rose land, in the extreme eastern part of town, on the bank of the river, are home-like houses, to which the same guests return year after year. The River View is beyond the Viaduct, in the suburb of Riverside, on the river bank, and is a small but well-kept house, which runs a free omnibus to all trains. The Glenada, Ward House, Arlington, and several others are small hotels, not particularly notew^orthy. The principal boarding houses are: Mrs. Henderson's, on Main Street, near Monroe; Mrs. Slager's. a Jewish house, stylish and first class, but exclusively Hebraic; Mrs. Chapman's, next corner, north of the St. James, and taking its overflow; Mrs. McGowan's, Laura and Beaver streets; Mrs. Ochus', Ocean Street, two blocks from Bay; Mrs. Starke's, Forsyth and Laura; Mrs. Rich's, one block, west of the St. James; and Mrs. Flemings, on Monroe Street, three blocks from Bay, much patronized by young lawyers, on account of its nearness to the court house. All these houses are well kept, most of them with much elegance, and by refined ladies, and they are in all respects preferable to a small hotel. They are kept, however, more specially for local patronage, although almost any of them will admit a few winter visitors. Almost any comfortably established family will accommodate an invalid or a tourist who prefers the quiet of a private house to a hotel. Their rates are reasonable, seldom more than $7 per week, often but $5. The strict sanitary laws of the city compel such close attention to drainage, sewerage, etc., that almost without exception all private houses have all modern improvements of bath rooms, pure water, etc. 138 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Excursions and Amusements at Jacksonville, apart from the social pleasures, dancing, etc., around the hotels, are somewhat lim- ited. A few walks about the town suffice to show its prettiest streets and houses. A visit to the Subtropical Exhibition (open every second winter); an inspection of the curio shops, where there are ten articles from elsewhere for one characteristic of Florida ; and a half- hour at the water-works, which pump the city's supply from artesian wells, exhaust the " sights " of the city. Driving is indulged in to a considerable extent. Most of the streets have recently been paved with bricks, and several shell-roads radiate into the country. As the surroundings are onl)^ fiat, sandy forests of sparse pines and palmetto scrub, capable of little cultivation, there is nothing to interest the eye after the first acquaintance. An electric loop-line (fare for the round trip 5 cents, if notice is given to the conductor) passes out Main Street into the northern suburbs, and gives an idea of these after they have been denuded of their biggest pines. The south side of the river (South Jacksonville) is reached, half-hourly, by a ferry from the foot of Newman Street. There shell-roads may be followed in several directions, one leading to the highly-cultivated plantation, " Villa Alexandria," of Mrs. Alexander Mitchell, which can be visited by permission, and is an excellent example of what culture and wealth are able to produce in this favored climate. The house is not pretentious externally, but within is fitted up in an exceedingly beautiful and tasteful manner, making it notable among American homes. Horseback riding is looked upon with more favor than driving by many persons, since thus they can go upon the by-paths and wood-roads too sandy for wheeled vehicles. Boating, however, can be indulged in at Jacksonville to the top of one's bent, and the river is greatly frequented by sailboats, rowboats, and canoes all winter. Both sail and rowboats may be hired at the boat yard in the rear of the Yacht Club House, at the foot of Market Street; or from Garde- ner's, a few rods east at the same locality. Rowboats may be hired for 25 cents for the first hour, or, 50 cents for three hours. A skilled and careful oarsman may be procured for 25 cents per hour additional. A sailboat rents for 75 cents for the first hour and 50 cents for every ad- ditional hour. A man for sailing and one for steering may be hired for 25 cents an hour each. Steam and naphtha launches, fully manned, may be rented for $1 an hour. The largest yacht is the *'Ogeechee," suitable for parties. FLORIDA. 139 Excursions out of town maybe taken by both rail and river. (/.) To St. Augustine. Seep. 152. (2.) Up the River. See p. 140. (3.) Down the River. The Independent Line steamers go down the river to Mayport and Fort George Island and return, daily, call- ing at all landings. Mayport, near the mouth of the St. Johns, on the south side (pp. 16, 154), is the headquarters of salt-water fishing, turtling, etc. , and the hotel there is famous for its sea-food dinners. Mayport is also reached from its station opposite Jacksonville (by ferry) by a railroad, which also extends to Burnside Beach, where there are bathing facilities, restaurants, etc. (4.) To Pablo Beach. This is a magnificent strand directly east of Jacksonville, and reached by a railway running straight through the flatwoods from its station, at the ferry-landing in South Jackson- ville, to the ocean, seventeen miles east. This is a superb beach for driving, bathing, or shell -hunting; and there is an excellent hotel; but this beach, like that at Burnside, is a summer resort for the Florida people, and rarely visited in winter, because the winds are usually too cold and raw there to make the experience an agreeable one at that season. The St. Johns River. This great water-course, which drains the whole interior of Florida and affords navigation for large steamers for 220 miles above its mouth, forms a natural highway to the central and southern parts of Florida, and the earliest travel and settlement was along its banks, excepting a few military coast stations. It takes its rise in the marshes of Sawgrass Lake, which finds an outlet through the reeds some five miles south of Lake Washington, and is eight or ten miles west of the Indian River at Grant Station, on the East Coast Line (p. 1 80), and thence it flows northward nearly 400 miles to Jacksonville, where it suddenly turns east to the ocean. It expands into lakes at frequent intervals, of which the principal, from south to north, are Washington, Harney, Jessup, Monroe, Woodruff, and George, and below Palatka has a width often reaching four or five miles. The river is nowhere very deep, is much obstructed by shoals, and [often obscured by heavy night fogs, so that its navigation is attended with some danger in sailboats or without a pilot. Never- theless many sailing yachts do ascend as far as Palatka, beyond which the course is so narrow and tortuous and overhung with 12 140 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. trees, that only steamboats can proceed successfully. Accurate and detailed charts can be purchased at the hydrographic office in Washington. Steamers on the St. Johns are fine large side-wheel boats, like those on the Hudson. They run during the winter months between Jacksonville and Sanford, 195 miles south, but not all boats go as fai as Sanford. During the summer only, small boats ply somewhat irregularly from point to point. The Clyde Line steamers leave from the foot of Hogan Street, Jacksonville, every day except Saturday, at 3.30 p. m., and reach Sanfoid early next morning. Returning, they leave^ Sanford at 9.30 a. m., except Sunday, and reach Jacksonville in the evening, showing the passenger by daylight the upper and most interesting part of the river, which is passed in the night on the upward trip. These Clyde Line steamers are the " City of Jacksonville " and " Fred DeBary." The "John Sylvester," locally and fondly known as the "queen of the river," makes the same trip as far as Palatka, leav- ing from the foot of Laura Street. Other fine boats are the ' ' Gov- ernor Safford" and its sisters of the Beach & Miller Line ; while the Independent Line boats ply between Mayport, Jacksonville, andpoints as high as Palatka. All these are winter boats. If it is desirable to travel in only one direction by river, the down trip is preferable; and some time may usually be saved by going by railroad between Palatka and Jacksonville, overtaking or leaving the steamer at Palatka. It is to be noted that the fare does not include meals and stateroom or berth. The following is a list of pri7icipal landings, with distances from Jacksonville: EAST BANK. Miles. Mandarin 15 New Switzerland 23 Orange Dale 34 Picolata... 44 Tocoi 49 Federal Point 58 Orange Mills 63 Hart's Orange Grove 75 Rolleston 78 Nashua f 5 Welaka 100 Beecher loi WEST BANK. Miles. Riverside 3 Black Point 10 Orange Park 15 Hibernia ^ 23 Magnolia - - _ 28 Green Cove Springs-... 30 Whetstone 68 Palatka 75 Buffalo Bluff - 87 Horse Landing 94 Fort Gates 106 Drayton Island 116 FLORIDA. 141 EAST BANK. Miles. Mt. Royal 105 Fruitlands 105 Orange Point 113 Lake George 115 Seville 120 Lake View 132 Volusia and Astor 134 Bluffton 140 De Land Landing 162 Blue Spring 168 Enterprise... 198 WEST BANK. Miles. Salt Springs 119 Benella 120 Yellow Blulf 121 Manhattan 136 Fort Butler 138 St. Francis 155 Old Town 156 Hawkinsville 160 Monroe 187 Sanford , 193 Mellonville.. 195 The River Trip, beginning at Jacksonville, carries you around Grassy Point, with Lancaster Point opposite, and quickly out of sight of the city, after which the course is south up the middle of the river, here so wide that the banks appear only as a low gray margin to the expanse of water. They are broken by two or three headlands, one of which, Piney, is distinguished by its tall pines; just above it is Black Point, on the west bank, and a few miles beyond that, but on the left, is Beauclerc Bluff, a heavily-wooded promontory. Two miles more bring the steamer to Mandarin, the first regular landing, noticeable only as one of the oldest settlements in the State and the former winter home of Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of " Uncle Tom's Cabin;" her house has been pulled down. The long wharf of Orange Park, nearly opposite, reaches out to the channel; this is a pleasant village on the " Key West " Railroad (p. 186), having in The Marion ($3) a large winter hotel. New Switzerland is next passed on the left, and on the right the island- village of Hibernia. The stream is here nearly two miles wide, opening east into Fruit Cove, and west into the estuary of Black Creek, which is navigable (by a weekly steamer) as far (8 m.) as Middleburg. The land south of Black Creek forms a high, heavily-wooded promontory called Magnolia Point, opposite which are Popo Point and the settlements of Orangedale and Remington Park. On the farther (southern) side of Magnolia Point, the white hotels and houses of Magnolia and Green Cove Springs appear, and the steamer calls at the first named. Magnolia Springs is the name of a large hote' and group of cot- tages, occupied only in winter, close upon the riverside and one and one-half miles north of Green Cove. It also has a railway station connected with the hotel by a short tramway, passing through beau- 142 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. tiful grounds containing a mineral spring, an orange grove, and mag- nificent magnolias. A steam launch and many boats are at the ser- vice of guests, who derive much pleasure from the river and from fishing. The spring not only provides a supply of drinking-water, but supplies baths and a swimming-pool; and the water is bottled and sold far and near. The new paved tennis courts are the scene of annual local tournaments. A dancing and entertainment hall adjoin the hotel. Good shooting can be had in the neighborhood in season, and excursions may be made to Governor's and Black Creek, while a shaded path called DavicVs Walk, connecting the hotel with Green Cove, through Borden Park, invites to a pleasant ramble along the river bank. Magnolia claims an entire absence of mos- quitoes — a claim which, as far as the present writer is aware, is not made for any other locality in the State of Florida; and the dryness of the surrounding region recommends this district for consumptives. This hotel, which has open fireplaces, electric lights, and all modern arrangements, can arrange for 300 guests at $3 to $5 a day, and calls particular attention to its table service. Green Cove Springs (pop., 1,500; Clarendon, 200 guests, $3; St. Elmo, $3; St. Clair, $3; Lochmore, special rates) is one of the oldest and pleasantest of the wintering places in the St. Johns Val- ley. It is a station on the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Rail- way, thirty miles south of Jacksonville, and the terminus of a short branch line reaching southwest into the lake district and connect- ing with the Georgia Southern Rd. at Newburg; by this road is reached the flourishing new town of Melrose, the Melrose Inn ($2), and neighboring places. Green Cove Springs has churches, street cars, electric light, shell roads, and all the belongings of a well- conducted village, and the hotels are numerous and attractive. The central feature of the place is the wonderful sj)rzng, dis- charging 3,000 gallons of water a minute, from which the place takes its name. The pool is green, clear as crystal, slightly sulphurous (which speedily disappears by evaporation), and keeps a uniform tem- perature of 78'' Fahr. Excellent arrangements for bathing have been provided, and " a swim" in the open pools can be taken with pleas- ure on almost any winter day. The inclosure of a bathing-pool with glass is one of the improvements proposed here for the coming year. The Clarendon, the principal hotel, which can provide for 200 guests, fronts upon Spring Park, and can supply hot sulphur baths within the house. The Hotel St. Elmo overlooks the river. Excur- sions from Green Cove Springs can be made in many directions. One of the nearest is to Governor's Creek, whose windings, easily FLORIDA. 14-3 followed in a boat, are romantic and ver>' pretty. "Borden Park, including about live acres, lies along the river on high ground, with its native growth of magnolia, live oak, and palmetto, the rubbish only having been cleared away. It is private property, but open to the public. Much ingenuity has been displayed in the adaptation of natural tree trunks for fences, gate posts, tree seats, and the like." This is one of the many fine winter homes that have clustered about this pretty locality, which is also extremely conveniently situated as to general lines of travel and for short excursions to many interesting places, especially by river. The River above Green Cove is broad and placid, the view closed in by Old Field Point on the west and San Patricio Point opposite. The latter incloses Hogarth's Bay, southward, into which comes Six Mile Creek, beyond which the banks contract to the narrows at Pico I at a, where the Spanish built a fort, with a second on the opposite bank, to guard the ascent of the river against their enemies, and to protect their supply stations and a large Franciscan mission. Traces of them remain. They were successfully defended against the English under Oglethorpe, in December, 1739, but were taken in January following, preliminary to the siege of St. Augus- tine (p. 168). During the Seminole War it was a temporary military post, commanded by Lieut, (afterward General) W. T. Sherman. All along the river bank near here are good plantations, but a short distance back begin the flat, almost worthless, pine barrens. Beyond Picolata Point the river expands again, and the steamer takes a straight course for ten miles to Federal Point. Half-way there, on the east bank, is Tocoi Creek and Tocoi, the terminus of a railroad to St. Augustine, eighteen miles directly east. This was the first railroad to St. Augustine, but it is not now operated except in winter. Opposite is the railway station of West Tocoi, on the ' ' Key West " road. At Federal Point orange groves begin to be seen on the river bank, about Orange Mills and beyond. The river now bends to the right around Bodine's Point on the right, then turns south around Forrester's Point on the^left, and exposes to view the spires and wharves, three miles ahead, of Palatka. Palatka (pop., 5,000; Putnam House, 400 guests, $4; St. George, I2; Graham, $2.50; Boyd, special rates) is one of the oldest and now the largest town in Central Florida. It is at the head of sailing navi- gation on the river, and is the point of departure for up-river, Ocklawaha, and Crescent City steamboats. It is also a central point for several railways. Here comes the Jacksonville, Tampa & 144 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Key West Rd. along the west bank of the river from Jacksonville (55 m.), and passes thence to the southwestern part of the State. This is also the terminus of the Georgia Southern & Florida Rd. bringing trains and sleeping cars from the North (Route 23), via Valdosta, Ga. , Lake City, and the lake district. A railway to the west (the Florida Southern) connects with the Florida Central & Pen- insular for the west coast; and the East Coast Line connects it with St. Augustine and the Indian River region. Palatka is the county seat of Putnam, is well laid out, has paved and well-shaded streets, electric lights, street cars, well-built wharves, a great bridge, railway repair shops, fruit and thriving business houses, with churches, schools, etc., proper to a flourishing town where outfits can be bought. It occupies a high, dry plateau, in the midst of a fine agricultural region, abounding in fruit and vegetable farms, exporting their products largely to Northern markets; and has a history which goes back to the days before the Seminole War when a trading-post was established here, which the Indians sacked in 1835. It was at once made a headquarters for troops, and forti- fied with a series of blockhouses. Large cavalry stables stood upon the site of the Putnam House, and an extensive hospital was built. Generals Zachary Taylor, Winfield Scott, W. J. Worth, E. P. Gaines, and others already famous were present, and several young officers who became very famous later. The post was discontinued at the end of the Indian wars, but settlers remained, and Palatka became a shipping point, and, after the Civil War, a winter resort, to which it owes its present prosperity in a large degree, and which doubles its population from December to April. The hotels are numerous. The largest is the Putnam House, which occupies a whole square in the center of the town, its windows commanding wide views of the river. It has accommodations for 400 guests, is furnished with all modern requirements of a first-class hotel, has apartments en suite, croquet and lawn-tennis courts, and an abundant supply of water from the Palatka Heights Spring. The amusements at Palatka are such as are provided by the hotels and the village, together with the opportunities for sailing and row- ing on the river, and the exploration of its tributaries. ' ' The condition of the water in the St. Johns is different from that of any stream with which I am familiar," says Roosevelt. " Even as high up as Palatka the surface water is absolutely fresh, while near the bottom there is a current so salt that crabs are caught in the shad nets. The Salter fluid seems to be denser and heavier than the other, and will not mingle with it, so that we have the anomaly of both fresh and salt water fish being caught at the same time and place. ENTERING THE OKLAWAHA RIVER FROM THE ST. JOHN'S. FLOklDA. 145 ' ' Into the St. Johns there empty at every few miles tributary streams that are rarely ascended by the visiting sportsman, and where the birds and fish exist in their primeval abundance and fear- lessness. It is unnecessary to specify these by name, or to particu- larize any as better than others, for they are essentially alike." A favorite boating trip is to Harfs Grove of orange trees, seventy acres in extent, four miles above town on the east bank of the river. These trees, grafted upon wild fruit, began to bear about 1845, and have since produced fine fruit. Driving and walking are not pleasur- able because of the sandy roads, but horseback riding is largely in- dulged and well provided for by the livery stables. Excursions from Palatka begin with the time-honored trip up the Ocklawaha River, which should be missed by no one. Fine little stern-wheel boats have replaced the ruder ones of years ago, and every comfort is provided. The Ocklawaha boats leave Palatka daily at noon, and reach the terminus, Silver Spring, next morning ; the return trip shows by daylight the part passed in darkness on the up trip. Three hours is expended in ascending the St. Johns to the mouth of the river, which comes in from the southwest, draining Lake Griffin, near Leesburg. " The scenery immediately changes when the mouth of the river is entered. The channel is narrow and tortuous in the extreme, and winds through a dense cypress swamp. The giant trees on each side meet and interlace overhead, and the route among them seems more like entering and traversing a forest aisle. The whole trip is most interesting, but becomes especially so after dark, when the pathway of the steamer is illuminated by the dancing glow of a light-wood fire suspended in iron fire-pans or cages on the corners of the pilot-house. These are constantly fed with resinous or ' fat ' pine-knots. The effect of this glaring flame, bursting out of blackest darkness, is impossible to describe. The glinting water, the giant trees, the over- hanging, dreary-looking moss, the very emblem of desolation, the fantastic forms of twisted water-oaks, the glimpses of lazy-looking alligators, the cry of birds startled by the light — all combine to make an experience that may be counted an event in any life. About mid- night the boat passes through ' The Gateway of the Ocklaw^aha,' as it is called. This is formed by two immense cypress trees, growing so close to each other that scarcely room is left to allow the boat to pass. About daylight the boat turns suddenly to the right, and the celebrated Silver Spring Run is entered. Here the stream becomes a river 100 feet in width, and runs with a swift current, against which these diminutive steamers make laborious way for nine miles. The ' Run ' is the crowning marvel of the river. Its waters are so clear that it can be compared to nothing but a river of glass with emerald banks. Its bottom is of white sand, and so transparent are its waters that 10 146 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. mosses and grasses growing on the bottom, loo feet below, can be seen distinctly. As they move in the current, it is difficult to dispel the delusion that they are waving in the wind." This spring is an outburst of hard water from fissures in the lime- stone, which delivers daily a hundred times as much water as the .daily supply of New York City, and forms a deep river loo feet wide. It should be examined in a boat; a small steamboat cruises upon it, and down the "run" of the Ocklawaha, giving a view of the wild jungle. The Silver Springs Hotel ($3) is a fine hostelry in a pretty village which has long been a favorite winter residence. It is a railway station six miles east of Ocala (p. 208), and is reached from Palatka via Hawthorne Junction. Crescent Lake and City are the object of another excursion by steamboat from Palatka. Dunn's Creek, a crooked, tree-bordered stream, is entered about six miles above Palatka, and after eight miles the steamboat emerges into Crescent Lake, sixteen miles long by three wide. Crescent City is a pretty town of about 600 inhabit- ants on the western shore, with the small Lake Stella in the rear. A stage runs to a near-by station of the Key West Rd., twenty-one miles south of Palatka. This peninsula-like area between Crescent Lake and the St. Johns, known as Fruztland, is a tract of high fertile land, thickly occupied by farmers who entertain many winter guests. The Upper St. Johns, from Palatka southward, increases in picturesque interest with each stage of advance. It is narrow, tor- tuous and strange, and should be seen by daylight, though a night trip, illuminated by the powerful search -lights of the steamers, is an entertaining experience. ' ' One passes for miles along grand forests of cypresses robed in moss or mistletoe, or palms towering gracefully far above the sur- rounding palmetto trees whose rich trunks gleam in the sun; of white and black ash, magnolia, water-oak, poplar, and plane trees, and, where the hummocks rise a few feet above the water level, the sweet bay, olive, cotton tree, juniper, red cedar, sweet gum, and the live oak shoot up their splendid stems; while among the shrubbery and inferior growths one may note the azalea, sumach, sensitive plant, agave, poppy, mallow, and the nettle." The windings are followed past Hart's Grove and RoUeston; through the Key West Com.pany's railway bridge at Buffalo Bluff; past the mouth of the Ocklawaha, opposite Welaka (McClure House, $3), and Beecher; along the expansion, at Orange Point, called FLORIDA. 147 Little Lake George ; and by Mount Royal to old Fort Gates, at the outlet of Lake George. This stretch of river was a favorite haunt of the aborigines, and afterward by the Spaniards. Mount Royal was settled by English farmers, who went away when Spain regained the country ; and many old orange groves here claim origin from Spanish seedlings. Fort Gates was a military station during the Seminole War. Lake George is about eighteen miles long by nine wide, the resort of wild fowl and bordered with orange groves. Near the mouth is Drayton Island, which contains nearly 1,900 acres, and is the scene of remarkably successful fruit farming. It receives the waters of Lake Kerr, a very pretty body of water a few miles west, through Salt Springs Creek; and there is a landing (Salt Spring Val- ley), on the western shore, for the many orange-growers and winter boarders scattered about that region. On the eastern side are Wright's and Seville landings, on the " Fruitland" peninsula. The lake shore seems to form a completely closed bank of forest across the northern end, but the pilot steers into the hidden opening and the boat is again in the narrow St. Johns River. Two miles above the head of the lake is Astor, the river terminus of^the St. Johns & Lake Eustis Railroad which extends southward to Eustis (p. 207; steamboats on Lake Eustis), Leesburg, Tavares, and other points in the lake district, running one daily train each way to connect with the boats. Opposite Astor is Volusia, the site of a Spanish mission and of an American fort during the Seminole War. This way came the old road from St. Augustine to Mos- quito Inlet, and here was the most prominent crossing-place for overland travel to Tampa and the west. The uplands eastward of the river, traversed by the Key West Railroad, are highly culti- vated, especially about the flourishing little town of Seville, which was the locality of Spanish attempts at agriculture, and has a fine hotel (The Seville, $3.50) in the midst of orange plantations. It can also be reached from Seville Landing on Lake George. Ten miles above Astor the western end of the large irregular Lake Dexter is crossed, and ten miles farther the steamer reaches De Land Landing, where a spur of the railroad comes down to the water and leads three miles inland to De Land, which is at its termi- nus, five miles from Beresford. De Land (pop., 2,500; College Arms, $3; Parceland, $3; Put- nam, $2.50; Carrollton $2) is the capital of Volusia, and as this is a 148 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. large county, filled with an enterprising, rapidly-increasing people, and hundreds of orange groves, there is a considerable business done here, as well as excellent arrangements for winter visitors. Volusia County comprises the country between the St. Johns and the Atlantic, from Lake George to below Lake Harney. Its population is 12,000, who are taxed upon a valuation of $4,000,000, regarded as about one-third of the true worth of the property con- cerned. There is no bonded indebtedness; and the county owns a fine brick court house worth $20,000; a jail, costing $9,000; and the poor house, $4,000. It is one of the foremost in orange growing; and is especially favored by a long north and south central ridge of high, dry pine lands, upon which De Land and Lake Helen stand, and to which they owe their high reputation for healthfulness. De Land is a handsome, active, well-built town of some 2,500 population, having artesian water, paved streets, electric lights, etc., and good churches and schools. Most of the houses are built of brick, and include commodious blocks of stores and several costly residences of wealthy Northern men. This is the site of the Stetson University, founded in 1887 as a school of broad collegiate instruction for both sexes. The university has fine buildings, heated by steam and lighted by electricity, on a campus six acres in extent, and is well furnished in respect to instruc- tors, books, and apparatus of all kinds; as a consequence, it draws pupils not only from Florida, but includes representatives of nearly all the more northern States, whose health requires the warmer and dryer climate which De Land affords. This university, founded by John B. Stetson, of Philadelphia, tends to sustain the high social and intellectual status of the village. It may be said, in passing, that there has not been a liquor saloon here or elsewhere in Volusia County in many years. The neighborhood of De Land has several places of note. The St. Johns River and Dexter Lake are easily accessible for boating and fishing. Lake Helen (see below) is only six miles southeast; Lake Beresford and Blue Lake nearer. De Leon Spring, six miles north, is a spring gushing up with such strength that it was formerly used as water power for a sugar mill, whose ruins form a picturesque feature of a favorite picnicking place. At Spring Garden, near by, many of the farmers are mak- ing a serious effort at raising silk- worms and reeling the silk. Both these places are stations on the Key West Railway, and have small hotels and boarding-houses. Continuing the voyage up the St. Johns River, six miles above De Land Landing, brings the voyager to Blue Springs (the railway station is Orange City Junction), where there is a mineral spring, bluish in color, so copious that a steamboat may ascend its outflow and float in the spring itself, an eighth of a mile or more back from FLORIDA. 149 the river. There is a small hotel here, as this is the terminus of a branch of the East Coast Line, which runs hence to New Smyrna (p. 175), Eight miles east on this road is Lake Helen, a pretty piece of deep, pure water, connected with other ponds upon a ridge sixty feet above sea-level, covered with pine woods. Its healthy and beautiful situation has accumulated there a village of people who are widely interested in the culture of oranges, peaches, and grapes, all of which thrive exceedingly. This and the climate have attracted a numerous winter population, who regard the place as a valuable sanitarium. "Its position in the pine forest belt (and a peculiar and unique feature of the town is that acres of the pine trees have been left standing throughout the center of the place) gives to Lake Helen a climate excellent and perfect for residence the year around, being entirely free from malaria, temperate in winter, equable, healthful, and invigorating. The atmosphere is redolent and balmy with the odor of the pine, free from humidity, impregnated with ozone, and highly conducive to health. It affords an ideal piney-woods resort for the winter sojourner, and a healthful and attractive residence for the homeseeker. The place has two very comfortable, home-like hotels: The Harlan ($3), modern and attractive in all its features, situated upon an eminence overlooking the lake and surrounded by an extensive pine park; and the ' Southland,' a smaller, but pleasant hotel, beautifully situated." It should be noted that this neighborhood, like that of De Land, affords excellent shooting eastwardly for game birds, especially quails and turkeys in abundance, and such large game as deer and wild- cats. Guides and camping outfits may be procured, but the sports- man should fully inform himself as to the game laws, which are strictly enforced in this part of the State. It is also well to give a word of warning in respect to poisonous sjiakes, two or three spe- cies of which, related to the rattlesnake, make it advisable to watch one's footsteps in walking about or in poking one's way up narrow streams where there are overhanging bushes. This caution applies to all parts of Florida, and to some parts more than to this county — and it is true that their numbers and the fatal effects of snake poison have been exaggerated ; enough of fact remains, however, to teach a wise caution on the part or the sportsman and rambler. A further voyage up the narrowing river amid a tropical jungle of trees and vines, through which Wekiva Creek steals lazily in from the southwest, soon brings us to the end of the steamboat journey in Lake Monroe, at the entrance to which is the village of Monroe, the Key West Railway crosses on its way to Sanford (see below). Monroe is also the terminus of the ' ' Cotton Belt " line of the Plant 150 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. System (p. i86). Enterprise is within sight of the steamer, ahead on the left, and Sanford, somewhat more distantly, on the right. Lake Monroe is a nearly circular sheet of water, about six miles in diameter, filled with fish, of which the bass is especially notable, and the resort of innumerable wild fowl. Its shores are fertile, but not generally cultivated as yet. On the northeastern side of the lake is the lively, energetic village of Enterprise (pop., 150; Brock, $3.50; Live Oak, $2), which is actively engaged in the fruit trade, and at the same time is a popular resort for invalids. The Brock House here has a long established reputation for excellence in meet- ing the requirements of visitors whose health must be carefully pro- vided for. Green Spring, near town, is worth attention. Enterprise is upon the Titusville branch of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Railway, which leaves the main line at Enterprise Junction, near the foot of Lake Monroe, and, passing around it, takes a south- easterly course through the pines to the shore of Indian River, and a terminus at Titusville. Its station at Aurantia gives easy access to Lake Harney. Mims and La Grange are on the Indian River, near Titusville, for which see p. 177. The distance from Jacksonville to the Indian River by this route, by river to Enterprise (198 m.) and thence by rail to Titusville, is 235 miles; by all rail, 159 miles. Sanford (pop., 2,500; Sanford, $3.50; Sirrine, $2; San Leon, $2.50) is the terminus of the regular river steamers, which cannot find sufficient water to float them above Lake Monroe. It is the southern terminus of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key "West Railroad (125 m. from Jacksonville), and the eastern terminus of the Plant System's lines to the Lake District, Tampa Bay, and South Florida (see p. 187). The town is an outgrowth of the settlement made here by Gen. H. S. Sanford soon after the Civil War. " The surrounding land was an old Spanish grant, and belonged, in 1870, to Gen. Joseph Finegan, an ex-officer of the Confederacy. From him General Sanford purchased the entire estate (known as the Old Levy Grant) of twenty -three square miles. At that time there was on the lake shore an insignificant hamlet called Mellonville, after Captain Mellon, U. S. A., who was killed here in an engagement with the Seminoles. General Sanford*s early attempts to introduce organized labor, whether white or black, were resisted by force of arms, but he soon became strong enough to defy the prejudices of the scattered population, and the result is apparent in the present prosperity of the place. A large number of Swedes were imported, with their families, and they now form a prosperous part of the com- munity. ^Belair, three miles south of Sanford, and easily reached by FLORIDA. 161 rail or carriage road, is one of the largest and most famous planta- tions in the State. It is the property of General Sanford, who began operations on a large scale soon after his purchase of the Levy Grant. The grove contains ninety-five acres of oranges and fifty acres of lemons, with a large experimental farm, where all kinds of exotics are tested under the best possible conditions for ascertaining their adaptability to the Florida climate." Sanford is the principal town of South Florida and the gateway and distributing point for Orange County, which has recently become prominent not only as a winter residence, but as a region for agricul- tural and fruit-raising enterprises. It is well located for both pleas- ure and health; its sanitary condition is described as perfect ; it has a fine water-works system, good streets, churches, schools, electric lights, well-supplied stores, banks, and all the evidences of thrift. In the neighborhood are many noted orange groves, such as the Belair, Beck, Hughey, Randolph, Speer, and Whitner. Sportsmen regard it as one of the most favorable regions in Florida. There are several hotels and boarding-houses, of which the foremost is the Sanford House, one of the largest and most conspicuous winter hotels in Florida. It can entertain 200 guests at once, and has large rooms, with an open fire-place in each; the house is also heated by steam. The hotel stands in the midst of park-like grounds upon the lake shore, and has full arrangements for boating, bathing, and all the amuse- ments. Sanford is the point of departure by boat for the sources of the St. Johns and by several railway routes to all parts of South Florida. The St. Johns above Lake Monroe is navigable for only small craft, because so shallow, tortuous, and overhung with trees and vines. In winter a small steamer makes tri-weekly trips to Lake Harney, requiring about twelve hours to go and return. Steam bunches may be hired at any time for this purpose. •'The river winds for the most part among vast stretches of savannah and saw grass, occasionally spreading into large lakes, as Harney, Jessup, Poinsett, Winder, and Washington. It is often a very difficult matter to decide which is the true river channel, but when found the stream is easily navigable and the upper lakes are so near the Indian River at Rockledge and Eau Gallic that carries are easily made across the intervening hammock. The upper St. Johns should not be attempted save in a boat that will serve as a sleeping- place at a pinch, for there are often long stretches of morass where it is impossible to camp comfortably on shore." 152 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. The East Coast of Florida. St. Augustine, the Indian River, and the southeast coast of Florida form one of the oldest, best known, and most interesting districts of the State. Until recent years they have been accessible only by water, or by a combination of river and rail transportation, at great loss of time and money. During the present decade, however, a con- tinuous, thoroughly organized system of railway has been extended down this coast to Lake Worth; and this is being advanced, so that by the spring of 1896, trains will be running regularly to Biscayne Bay (366 m.), whence steamships, then or soon after, will run to Key West, and perhaps to the Bahamas and Cuba. This railway system is that formerly known as the Jacksonville, St. Augustine & Indian River Railway, but now as the Florida East Coast Line. Jacksonville to St. Augustine. The train, yellow in color, leaves the Union depot in Jacksonville at 9.00 a. m. daily, reaching the terminus in twelve hours. There is also an afternoon train for St. Augustine. It turns south through the manufacturing part of the city, and moves out upon the great bridge which spans the St. Johns; this is 1,320 feet long, built of steel, has a "draw" 320 feet long, and was opened to traffic in 1889. The control of the railroad between Jacksonville and St. Augustine was necessary to Mr. Flagler if he were to carry out, without unnecessary expense, his great schemes of building and improve- ment at St. Augustine. When these were accomplished, and it became desirable to induce a through traffic from the North direct to St. Augustine, it became necessary to bridge the St. Johns in order to carry the cars across the river. Such was the origin of the railway development along the east coast which has grown up and remains under the general care of Henry M. Flagler. South Jacksonville, at the southern end of the bridge, is an attractive village of perhaps 1,000 people. Some manufacturing has begun — notably a factory for the preparation of fertilizers from crude Florida phosphates. The old King's Highway, built by the English military Governor in 1765, is the main street, and appears at the left of the station. Mixed woods and scattered houses and gardens are soon passed, and the road enters the flat pine woods, broken now and then by hammocks, and takes a mathe- matically straight course to its destination. There is little apparent occupation, for the land is poor (though said to be good for grape- 13 . pTHE M-N THE ONLY LINE TO THE Great Hotels of the East Coast, and the Famous Orange Groves, Pineapple Plan- tations, Cocoanut Groves, and Vegetable Farms of the Country tributary to Imdian l^iver, Lake Worth, and B'scayne Bay JOSEPH RICHARDSON, General Passenger Agent ST. AUGUSTINE. FLORIDA, 163 culture), and the timber of small account. Thirty-five miles south- west of the bridge, a surprising vision of towers and foliage comes into view, and the train rolls into the picturesque station of the "Ancient City." The City and History of St. Augustine. St. Augustine (pop., 4,000). Ponce de Leon, 700 guests, $5; Cordova, 400 guests, $3.50; Alcazar, 350 guests, $4; San Marco, 450 guests, $4; Magnolia, 250 guests, $3.50; Florida, 200 guests, $3.50; St. George, 150 guests, $3.; Columbia, 100 guests, $2.50; Valencia, 100 guests, $2.50; Barcelona, 75 guests, $2.50; Lorillard Villa, 50 guests, $2.50; Lynn's, 100 guests, $3; Ocean View, 75 guests, $1.50. The first nine are open only in winter, the last four all the year. St. Augustine is the gem of Florida and one of the most interest- ing places in the United States. Though Santa Fe, N. M., founded by the Spaniards amid the enduring structures of an aboriginal town in 1540, is able to dispute successfully with it the claim to be the oldest continuous civilized community in the United States, its origin goes back far beyond that of any settlement on the eastern coast, and its history is filled with a romance that belongs to few, if any, other localities where European rivals contended for colonial mastery in the New World. The architectural relics and racial traces that remain of this varied and thrilling history give a distinctly foreign character to what has been an English and American (but always, until lately, isolated) town for more than a century; and these have been so tastefully kept in view and conformed to by the wise judg- ment that has lately regenerated the village, that St. Augustine retains in its new development the charm that made it formerly so peculiarly attractive. What anywhere else in the Eastern United States would be an almost offensive affectation in architecture and naming, is here poetic and fitting. The city occupies a narrow, southward-reaching peninsula between the harbor and San Sebastian River, a site admirable for defense as well as for commerce, and the former consideration was more in the eyes of the old military settlers than the latter. The San Sebastian is useful for boating in a small, safe way, and for quiet fishing. A short walk beyond the railway station takes the pedestrian to the bridge, where he may cast a successful line for sheepshead and smaller fry. The harbor is formed by the confluence, in a bay some- thing over a mile wide, of North or Tolomato River and Matanzas 154 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. River, separated from the Atlantic by North Beach and St. Anastasia Island. These rivers are supplied with the ebb and fliDw of the tide through St. Augustine Inlet, which will admit only vessels of less than ten feet draught. Places of Interest in St. Augustine. Objects of interest in St. Augustine center about The Plaza, which forms a quadrangular park on the waterfront protected against high tides and easterly gales by a substantial . sea-wall, built by the United States Government in 1835-42, and now affording a favorite promenade when the tide is high enough to hide the malo- dorous mud along its externai base. This wall, three-quarters of a mile long, ten feet high, and three feet thick, was preceded by an earlier wall extending from the Castle to the Plaza, on a line somewhat inland of the present one. The records tell us that the soldiers volunteered their labor and con- tributed part of their pay toward its construction, perceiving its necessity to the safety and comfort of their low-lying camps. The Plaza was left as an open space in the center of the canton- ment, as is the arrangement in most towns which have the advan- tage of being platted before the huddling of buildings together has gone too far. It was, indeed, designed as a military parade ground, and was bare of trees until recently, although previous to that there was an era when it was well shaded by orange trees. It was also the market place; but the open-sided building, often called (errone- ously and foolishly) the " slave pen," was not built until 1840, when the English were in possession of the country, and had begun to raise country produce and beef cattle. The original shed was des- troyed by fire in 1887, and has been restored as a shady lounging place for idlers. The only early attempt to ornament the parade seems to have been the erection here, in 1813, of the monument, still standing, to commemorate the passage by the Spanish Cortes of the new and liberal constitution of 181 2. This monument, which is an obelisk of coquina, surmounted by a cannon ball upon a square pedestal, was ordered removed by King Ferdinand, who did his best to nullify the new constitution, but the Floridians simply took away and hid the inscribed tablets, and, in 1818, restored them to their place. These tablets bear the following (translated) inscription; FLORIDA 155 Plaza of the Constitution Promulgated in this City of St. Augustine, in East Florida, October 17, 1812, the Brigadier Don Sebastian Kindalem, Knight of the Order of Santiago, being Governor. For Eternal Remembrance the Constitutional City Council erected this Monument, under the direction of Don Fernando de la Maza Arredondo, Jr., Senior Magistrate, and Don Francisco Robira, Attorney for the Crown, In the Year 1813. This is a curious memorial to find upon North American soil; and no less curious, by contrast with each other, were the scenes on this square, first, in 1776, when the English people assembled to burn in effigy the signers of the Declaration of Independence; and second, in 1865, when the people gathered to listen contentedly to the reading, on the Fourth of July, of that same document, in token that the Union was still unbroken. It is not so much the deeds done here as the curious diversity of sentiments, persons, and movements sug- gested by it that make this old square one of the most interesting spots m the New World. The Plaza is now beautifully shaded with trees, among which the palms are noticeable, and also has a monu- ment to the citizens " who gave their lives in the service of the Con- federate States." The Plaza opens eastwardly upon Marine Street and the sea-wall. On the south side are shops and Trinity Protestant Episcopal Church, along the old King Street, now broadened and beautified westwardly into the Alameda. The western end of the Plaza is bounded by St. George Street, and faced by the post office, in a low stone building on the site of the former " governor's mansion; " and on the northern side are shops, including the larger curio-bazars, and the Roman Catholic Church of St. Joseph, which gives its name to Cathedral Street. This is not a very large nor imposing building, and is a res- toration • of that ruined by fire in 1887. That building was erected tmder the direction of Spanish Franciscan priests, in 1701; but it had a humbler predecessor dating back to 1682, if the date on one of the bells, which is inscribed Sancte . Joseph . Or a . pro . Nobis . 16S2, may be accepted as the time of the foundation. It is of the simple style of architecture common in Spanish America, the fagade being surmounted by a diminishing wall, terminating in a cross, and pierced by apertures in which hang four bells, reached from the rear by a wooden balcony. There is little to reward curiosity in the interior of the church, which was no doubt far more richly furnished 1 56 G UWE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. in the early days than now. The bishop's residence adjoins it in the rear, facing on St. George Street. North and south from the Plaza are regions of the old town, dis- tinguished by narrow streets and remnants of the high walls which once jealously protected every man's house and garden ; but this interesting area has been greatly diminished of late years by new buildings and by fires, and many a precious landmark is gone. ' ' One by one the overhanging balconies are disappearing from the streets," laments Mr. Reynolds ; ' ' high stone walls are replaced by picket fences and wire netting ; moss-roofed houses have given way to smart shops ; lattice gates are displaced by show windows." This is sadly true, and is a source of disappointment to many visitors who have had their expectations raised by unwise laudation and unfounded history to the anticipation of something altogether unreasonable— an American town as foreign as Castile itself, and as romantic as " Arab}, the blest." As a matter of fact there are fewer persons of Spanish descent here than in many other Florida towns, the dark-skinned men and women seen being usually the descendants of the Minorcans, who were brought here from New Smyrna (p. 174) about 1776, and who combine the blood of nearly every nationality that ancientl}' flourished along both shores of the Mediterranean and found in the Balearic Isles a refuge for their strays of both sexes. Nevertheless much remains in St. Augustine that is quaint as well as pretty. "Walking southward along the narrow alley of St. George Street you pass a sheltered garden on the left, where there is a convent of nuns whose lace-making is famous, cross the narrow Bridge Street, pass the Presbyterian church, and presently come to the end at St. Frajicis Street, which has been so called since the Franciscan monks came here, in 1592, and organized Indian missions. Their monastery or chapter house, built before 1650, largely of coquina blocks taken from the older batteries which protected the southern part of the town, stood opposite the end of Charlotte Street. This convent was abandoned when Florida became English and Protestant in 1763; and when Spain resumed possession, twenty years later, the building became the quarters for the troops, the huge barracks, of bricks brought from New York, which the British had built on the plain to the southward, having been burned. The United States continued this use of the buildings after Florida became ours, and gradually modified, without destroying, the ancient convent, until now it is the principal building of the 7iiilitary post, where a small contingent of troops is kept. The dress parades and morning guard-mountings are pretty ceremonies open to all visitors. Just opposite the gateway of St. Francis Barracks is a small house FLORIDA. 157 said to be the oldest in St. Augustine, but it has been so " restored " and tricked out with bright paint and conch shells that it is impossible to regard it with any historical enthusiasm. The Military Cemetery is a short distance south of the barracks, and is closed to visitors, except on a pass from the adjutant of the post, whose office is opposite the barracks. From the road can be seen, well enough, however, the only object of public interest — the three low stone pyramids erected over the mingled graves of the soldiers who were killed in the Seminole War. Under the shaft called " Dade's Monument " lie more than loo of the men killed in the mas- sacre by the Indians of a large detachment of troops under Major Dade (p. 204), in the southern part of the State. Visitors to West Point, N. Y. , will recall the monument there to the same man and event. Returning along the top of the sea-wall, with the panorama of the beautiful bay spread before your eyes, continue your walk past the Plaza, along what used to be the picturesque Marine and Char- lotte streets, before fire had swept away all the old-fashioned houses, walls, and gardens, until you come to the glacis and water-battery of Fort Marion, which is the most characteristic and precious relic in St. Augustine's keeping, and the most perfect — outside of Quebec the only — example of medieval fortification on this continent. " On or near this site," writes Col. Charles Ledyard Norton, in his very valuable " Hand-book of Florida,"* " Menendez (p. 168) con- structed a wooden fort in 1565, and named it St. John of the Pines (San Juan de Pinos). It was, according to the most trustworthy accounts, octagonal in form, and mounted fourteen brass cannon. It was this fort that Sir Francis Drake destroyed in 1586, the garrison having fled with but a faint show of resistance. •' By this time the Spaniards had discovered the valuable properties of coquina for building purposes, and their subsequent works were of the more durable and less combustible material. Little is known of the structure that was threatened by Davis, the English buccaneer, in 1665, but its walls were at that time well advanced, having been pushed forward by the labor of Indian captives and convicts from Spain and Mexico. We have the testimony of Jonathan Dickinson, a Philadelphia Quaker, who was here in 1695. that the walls were thirty feet high at that time. Seven years later (1702), they were certainly far enough completed to defy Governor Moore of South Carolina, and in 1740 Governor Oglethorpe of Georgia hammered away at them for more than a month without producing any percept- ible impression. The Spaniards named the fort San Marco, the =^New York: Longmans, Green & Longmans, 1891. 158 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. English changed the name to St. John, and on retrocession to Spain, in 1783, San Marco was once more recognized. On the accession of the United States the saints were laid aside, and the name of the patriot soldier of South Carolina was adopted by the War Depart- ment. ' ' The fort is planned in accordance with the Vauban system of for- tification. . . . Approaching from the direction of the town the visitor ascends a path leading tip to what was formerly the exterior slope of the glacis. The mass of masonry on the left, pierced for cannon and musketry, is the barbican, an outwork intended for the protection of the weakest point in the main work, namely, the entrance. An extension of the moat includes the barbican, and both moats are now crossed by rough plank platforms, where once were reg- ular drawbridges. On the left, after passing the angle of the barbi- can, is a niche opening into a stairway, and containing, carved in stone, the royal arms of Spain, which, in a sadly dilapidated condi- tion, barely survive the rough handling to which they have been sub- jected by tte elements all the time, and by witless vandals at intervals, until protected by an iron grating. ' ' Turning to the right, another rude structure of planks crosses the wide moat and leads to the entrance. Above this again are the arms of Spain with an almost obliterated inscription which, restored and translated, reads as follows : Don Ferdinand VI., being King of Spain, and Field-Marshall Don Alonzo Fernando Hereda, being Governor and Captain-General of this place, St. Au- gustine of Florida, and its province, this fort was finished m the year 1756. The works were directed by the Captain-Engineer Don Pedro of Brozas and Garay. ' ' This door is provided with a heavy portcullis, which still remains in position, though hardly in working order. The door or sally-port is barely wide enough for four men to inarch abreast. Within is a wide arched passage leading to the open parade inside the walls. On either side of the passage are doors leading to the vaulted chaiiibers or casemates that surround the parade on all sides, and served in their time as quarters for the garrison, as cells for prisoners, including American rebels during the Revolution, and Indian captives in more recent times. On the left of the entrance passage is the guard room, and on the right is the baker}^ through which access is had to two dark vaults, used, no doubt, for storage. " The terreplein, or parade, is 103 by 109 feet, and a broad stair- way, formerly an inclined plane for the easier handling of gun- carriages and the like, leads to the parapet. Directly opposite the entrance is the chapel, without which no Spanish fort of that period was complete ; in it are still visible the stations of shrine and altar, and other evidences of the decoration customary in such places. It was used for religious services as late as 1S60 or thereabout, and was turned into a schoolroom for the Western Indians who were confined here in 18 75-' 78. The portico of the chapel was originally quite an elaborate bit of decorative architecture, but it has long since dis- appeared. FLORIDA. 159 "In 1882 a party of French astronomers had the use»o£ the fort as a station to observe the transit of Venus, and a tablet near the chapel door commemorates their visit. . . . " The casemates are in the main alike, dark vaults, some of them lofty, others divided into two stories, some dimly lighted through narrow slits high up near the ceiling, others totally dark save for the entrance doors. That captives, red and white, pagan and Christian, have pined away their lives in more than one of these dungeons is extremely probable. . . . Two of them, however, have authentic histories. In the one marked 15, near the southwest bastion, Coa- coochee and Osceola, two of the most celebrated Seminole chiefs, were confined during the war that lasted from 1835 till 1842 [and from it made a remarkable escape by creeping through the ventilating win- dow; Osceola fell to the ground and was seriously hurt, but both got away]. During the years iSys-'yS the fort was again used as a prison for Indians [Apaches] brought from the far west. , . "Within the northeastern bastion is a chamber known as 'the dungeon,' though there is good reason for believing that it was orig- inally intended as a magazine. In 1839 ... it was discovered that there was still another innermost chamber, whose existence had not before been suspected. The wall was broken through, and, among other refuse, some bones were found so far gone in decompo- sition that the post-surgeon could not determine whether they were human or not. The rumor spread, however, that an entire skeleton had been found chained to the wall, and that implements were scat- tered about suggestive of the ' Holy Inquisition ' and a chamber of horrors. The tale grew by repetition and for many years it was gen- erally believed that the dungeon had once been the scene of a tragedy. The author of the ' Standard Guide to St. Augustine,' however, cites the statement of an old resident of the city, who was employed at the fort when a boy, and remembers the old disused magazine in the northeast bastion. According to this account, during the later days of Spanish occupancy the magazine fell out of repair, and became a receptacle for refuse of all sorts, until finally it was walled up, being regarded as a menace to health. There are still those who insist that the tragic accounts of the ' dungeon' are the true ones, but the weight of evidence seems to be in favor of the more prosaic version. " Ascending to the parapet, the commanding position of the fort is apparent, and the outlook in all directions is very interesting. . . . " In the salient angle of each bastion is a sentry-box of stone, where a man-at-arms might be tolerably secure against Indian arrows, or even against the firearms of the last century; on the northeastern bastion, the most exposed of the four, the sentry-box has a supple- mentary story or watch-tower, whence a still wider outlook may be obtained. " It is not likely that, even in case of a foreign war, guns will ever again be mounted eji barbette on Fort Marion. Even if the coquina masonry could sustain the weight of modern ordnance, it could not long withstand the impact of modern projectiles. For this reason the water-battery along the sea-face was built in 1842, but the gun-plat- 160 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. forms were never finished, and the whole work is long out of date. The guns that lie rusting along the glacis mostly antedate the Civil "War, and are worthless save as old iron. " The floor of the moat was originally of cement, but it is covered deep with sand and soil. When the old fort was in fighting trim this moat could be flooded at high tide. A stairway near the barbican permits easy descent into the moat for those who do not choose to jump or climb down from. the crest of the counterscarp, . Along the eastern or sea front numerous scars and indentations may be seen in the masonry, some of which were made by British guns during Oglethorpe's siege in 1740. These respectable old wounds will readily be distinguished from the ones that have been inflicted by modern riflemen, who have at times used the moat as a shooting gallery. The use of all firearms within the fort is now very properly prohibited. The small brick building in the eastern moat is a furnace to heat shot for the water-battery. It was built in 1844. ' ' The sergeant in charge of the fort conducts visitors through the casemates. As this is not part of his regular duty, a fee (25 cents for each person, or $1 for a party of several) is customary." Westward from the center of the fort to San Sebastian River runs the broad new Orange Street, in which, opposite the intersection of St. George Street, stand the two "towers" or posts of the ancient City Gate. ' ' The gateway is the only conspicuous relic of the elaborate system of fortifications which once defended St. Augustine. _ The town being on a narrow peninsula running south across this northern boundary east and west, from water to water, ran lines of fortifica- tion, which effectually barred approach. From the fort a deep ditch ran across to the St. Sebastian, and was defended by a high parapet, with redoubts and batteries. The ditch was flooded at high tide. Entrance to the town was by a drawbridge across the moat and through the gate. Earthworks extended along the St. Sebastian River in the rear (west) of the town ; and around to the Matanzas again on the south. The gate was closed at night. Guards were sta- tioned in the sentry-boxes. Just within the gate was a guard-house with a detachment of troops. , . , The towers are very old. . . , In 1 8 10, at the Governor's command, all of the town's male inhabitants between twelve and sixty years of age were compelled to labor at the restoration of the gate and the other fortifications. At a later date the west tower was partly demolished and clumsily rebuilt. The stone causeway leading out of the gate is modern. . , , The material is coquina. The pillars are 20- feet in height, to the moldings, and 10 feet deep; the flanking walls are 30 feet in length; roadway between the pillars, 12 feet. The walls were formerly sup- plied with banquettes."— 5/<3:;z1BIA, S. C, EVERETT, Ga., or RIVER JUNCTION, Fla, Send, for best map of Florida EARLY CONNECTION THIS WINTER FOR THE BAHAMA ISLANDS BY STEAMER FROM PALM BEACH TO NASSAU N. S. PENNINGTON, Traffic Manager. A. O. MAC DONELL, Gen'I Pass'r Agt., Jacksonville, Fla. PLORWA. SO'? thickly populated parts of the State, and one of the favorite dwelling- places for winter residents and tourists. There are few very large and famous hotels, but many small and comfortable ones, not to speak of innumerable boarding-houses and private families that receive a guest or two for the winter. This district is reached from all sides by railroads and steamboats in a quick and comfortable manner. The two central points are Leesburg and Tavares. Leesburg (pop. , 1,500 ; Lake View, $3) is the county seat of Lake, which has been in the past the greatest orange-growing county of the State. It is situated on a neck of land between Lake Harris (or Astatula), south, and Lake Griffin, north, of the town, which is the business point of the district. It is a station on the Florida Southern, 125 miles south of Jacksonville, and on the east and west line of the Florida Central from Wildwood to Orlando; it is also a terminus of the Plant System's line (St. Johns & Lake Eustis Ry.) from Astor, so that it is easily reached from the St. Johns steamboats at Astor (p. 147) or at Sanford. Ten miles east of Leesburg is Tavares (Osceola, $3), another railway Junction, having, besides the east and west line from San- ford to Leesburg, southerly lines to Lake Apopka and Kissimmee (p. I go), and to Clermont and Kissimmee, connecting with the roads to St. Petersburg and Tamj^a; a short branch to Nithsdale, on Lake Harris; and the St. Johns and Lake Eustis north to Fort Mason, Glendale, and Astor. These two towns are the supplying points of a populous, prosper- ous, and interesting district which offers everything in the way of health, comfort, and amusement that Central Florida can afford. Five large lakes, Harris, Griffin, Eustis, Dora, and Yale are grouped within an area fifteen miles square, and their waters are sufficiently spacious for good sailing, quiet enough for pleasant rowing, and warm enough for healthful bathing. The shores are dotted with little towns, pretty winter cottages, and numberless groves of oranges, while the gardens are semi-tropical in variety and luxuriance. Steamboats ply weekly (Friday) between Leesburg and Esmeralda — at the foot of Lake Griffin — and between El Dorado, the railway station on Lake Harris, and Yallaha, Bloomfield, and Lane Park on its opposite shore. The still larger Lake Apopka, famous for its fishing, is only a dozen miles away, and it is a short journey to the seashore or to the Upper St. Johns or Kissimmee River and lakes. Eustis (pop., 500; Eustis, $2.50; Ocklawaha, $2.50) is a fine village on the northern shore of Lake Eustis, a terminus of the St. Johns & Lake Eustis Ry. from Astor (p. 147), and a port for lake steam- 208 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. boats. Zellwood (Michelhurst, $2), Mt. Dora (Bruce, $2; Lake, $2), and Fruitland (Fruitland, $2), the last named one of the most suc- cessful of English colonies in Florida, are other interesting points on these lakes not heretofore mentioned, see also page 187. Okahumpka, six miles south of Leesburg, on the railroad, is a new competitor for favor in the midst of high, dry pine lands, and has the Hotel Clarendon (I2.50). Ten miles north of Leesburg is Lake Weir, where the local Chautauqua Assemblies are held (Weir Park, $2). Many little settle- ments are clustered here, with fair roads, one of which leads to Moss Bluff and Lake Weir Landing on the Upper Ocklawaha (which drains Lake Griffin), whence boats can be taken to Silver Spring, some ten miles below, and thence to Palatka. A few miles farther north, on the Florida Southern, brings the traveler to Ocala. Ocala (pop., 5,000; Ocala, $3; Montezuma, $2. 50; boarding-houses). This vigorous and growing town is the county seat of Marion, and of increasing importance as the market and supplying point not only of a good agricultural and fruit-producing region, but of a wide circle of phosphate mines. It is a pretty place, with a fine public square. Phosphates, suitable for use as a land fertilizer, are found in sev- eral of the Southern States, notably South Carolina, and exist in Western Florida, in several distinct varieties, each different in appear- ance and texture from phosphates found in other States and countries. They consist of hard rock phosphate, bone phosphate, pebble, and soluble or soft phosphate. Hard rock phosphates are found in Wakulla, Leon, Jefferson, Madison, Taylor, Suwannee, Columbia, Alachua, Levy, Marion, Sumter, Citrus, Pasco, and Hernando coun- ties ; they are white or pinkish, hard and granular in texture, often laminated, and have the appearance of lime rock. This variety of phosphates is supposed to have been originally miocene lime-rock, which, in course of time, by some process of nature, not understood, became impregnated with phosphoric acid. It varies in percentage of phosphates from 60 to 90 per cent. The beds run from the surface to sixty feet in depth, extending in area over thousands of acres. This is the most inexpensive phosphate to mine, no drills or machin- ery being required, and has been mined, loaded on the cars, loaded on steamers at Fernandina, and delivered at Amsterdam, Holland, at $7.50 per ton; a clear profit of $17.50 per ton. Nodular bone or pebble phosphates are found in Clay, Polk, Hillsboro, Manatee, De Soto, and Lee counties, in the Prace, Alafia, Black rivers, etc., and are composed principally of coprolites (petrified guano) and com- minuted bones. They occur in bluish gray, dark blue, amorphous nodules, of sizes varying from a pea to a walnut. These pebbles, intermixed with sand, form immense beds and bars in the rivers, and scattered among them are the teeth, tusks, bones, and scales of FLORIDA. 209 prehistoric mammals, reptiles, and fishes. This phosphate is of a high grade, rarely containing more than i per cent of alumina, and remarkably free from other alien substances. The method of raising this phosphate is very simple, consisting of a steam-dredge with a revolving screen to separate the phosphate from the sand. Soluble or soft phosphates have been found in Marion County, and consist of soft white pebbles, which crumble under slight pressure, and are very rich, containing over 60 per cent of pure phosphate of lime. The manufacture of iron-acid phosphate and other forms of pre- pared mineral fertilizers has been undertaken at Belleview near Ocala, South Jacksonville, and at some other points within the State. Ocala is a railway junction of importance, where the Florida Cen- tral crosses the Plant System. A cross-road, the Silver Springs, Ocala & Gulf, connects Ocala with Silver Springs (p. 146), five miles eastj and extends west to the Withlacoochee River and sea- coast, at Homosassa. On this line are Leroy and Rock Springs (Hotel Leroy, $2), and the Wekiva Blue Spring (Cottage, $2), a mile from Juliette, on S. F. & W. division of the Plant System, twenty-two miles from Ocala, of which Colonel Norton has given this enthusiastic description: "The spring, named Wekiva by the Seminoles and Las Aguas Azul by the Spaniards, is one of the most beautiful in Florida, sur- rounded by an amphitheatre of bluffs covered with a fine growth of magnolia, hickory, live-oak, bay, and the like, interspersed with pine. The spring is 350 feet wide, of a color that varies from blue to green, owing to unexplained conditions or to individual percep- tion of color. So clear is the water, and so high its refractive powers that, looking from the bank, a stranger can not be convinced that the basin is more than three or four feet deep. . . . The actual depth is twenty-five feet or more. The spring derives much of its peculiar beauty from the wonderful vegetation that rises in endless variety of color and form along the rocky dykes and sand bars of the bottom. To float upon the absolutely invisible water, above these fairy-like bowers, is an experience never to be forgotten. The water boils up through a broad, and, no doubt, a very deep bed of pure white sand, in volume sufficient to form a considerable stream — not nearly so large, however, as Silver Spring Run. All along the banks, too, are other lesser springs, overhung by ferns and vines, that rival those beneath the surface of the water. " Visitors should not fail to go down the run to Dunnellon, either by steam launch or in a rowboat. The distance, allowing for the wind- ings of the stream, is about six miles, and the whole trip is a series of surprises. Here and there are deep, rocky chasms, through which fresh volumes of water boil upward, and, at frequent intervals, other springs burst from the banks, sometimes utilized to turn water- wheels, and each possessed of some peculiar charm of its own. The lower reaches of the run are bordered with cypresses and frequented by garfish, turtles, and alligators." ^10 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. Dunnellon is a railway station on the Withlacoochee, admirably situated for a pleasure place, as it was intended to be, but the discovery, in 1889, that the village site and all the neighborhood was underlaid with .the richest phosphate, has turned it into a mining center. From Dunnellon the road trends southward across the head of the beautiful Crystal River to Ho7Jzosassa, a port of Homosassa River, which is really an inlet. This was the scene, before the Civil War, of extensive sugar planting and especially of the plantation, sugar warehouses, and mills, of ex-Senator Yulee. As he was an ardent Confederate, and did what he could to aid blockade running, and as the Confederates had a garrison here, the port was an object of considerable attention, during the Civil War, from the Northern war vessels, who frequently shelled the woods and occasionally landed troops for short periods. Now there is not much cultivation nor many inhabitants, and Homosassa is a port for the shipment of phosphates to Cedar Keys. This is an exceedingly advantageous region for shooting and fishing. The l7ni (I3) and Osceola House (I2) are open at Homosassa. Another branch from Dunnellon goes straight south along the western shore of Lake Tsula-apopka to Inverness (county seat of Citrus), where it meets a branch of the Florida Southern from Pem- berton Ferry, connecting through to the South. Orange Lake, some nineteen miles north of Ocala, is the largest of a group comprising also, Lochloosa, Newnan's, and Levy's lakes. This region has long been noted for its orange groves, the Mam- moth Grove, on the south shore of Orange Lake, having had, in 1894, 70,000 full-bearing trees. These are the largest natural groves in Florida. They are situated in the midst of a vast, rich hammock, the trees being of natural, spontaneous growth, in the places where they now stand, budded to the best sweet varieties. The same pro- fusion of orange trees surrounds all the man^^ villages and stations on the railways. The eastern shore of Orange Lake and Lochloosa are skirted by the Florida Central, through Citra (a prominent shipping point), Island Grove, and Lochloosa, stations, to Hawthorne, where it crosses the Plant System's tracks from Gainesville (p. 211) to Palatka (p. 143). On this east-and-west line, fourteen miles east of Haw- thorne, is Interlachen (Hotel Lagonda, $3), which is a pleasant winter resort in the midst of a rolling, wooded, thickly settled country, where the absence of the saw-palmetto renders walking more attractive than it usually is in Florida. Lakes Lagonda and Chipco are near by. FLORIDA. 211 The Central's line continues north from Hawthorne fourteen miles to its junction with the line to Cedar Keys at Waldo. The Florida Southern passes north from Ocala along the western shore of Orange Lake to Micanopy (a brisk little town having an historical connection with the Seminole War, and named after an Indian warrior of that time), and at Rochelle, six miles north of Micanopy (Junction) joins the Plant System's line from Gainesville to Palatka, spoken of above. Jacksonville to Cedar Keys. The Florida Central is one of the oldest roads in the State, and its earliest lines ran from Fernandina (p. 29) and Jacksonville (p. 133) to Cedar Keys, 127 miles southwest on the Gulf of Mexico. It is to be expected, therefore, that this region of the State will be found among the most thickly populated and productive. This has long been true, and since the discovery of phosphate earths and rock, underlying a large part of it, an increase of numbers and values has taken place. The eastern part of the journey is of no particular interest. The direct line from Fernandina to Cedar Keys crosses at Baldwitt, nineteen miles west of Jacksonville, that from Jacksonville to Tallahassee (p. 213), and an exchange of passengers takes place upon a platform in the midst of a swamp where a sharp little battle occurred during the Civil War, in which the Union men were gallantly routed. Continuing southwest toward Cedar Keys, through rolling pine woodlands, stops are made at Maxville (mineral springs), Lawtey (Burrin, |2), Stark (Commercial, $2.50) — where a short branch runs westward into Alachua County — Thurston, at the crossing of the Georgia Southern Railway, from Lake City to Palatka, and Waldo (Renault, $2), where the road diverges southward to Ocala and Tampa, and one can reach Lakes Alto and Santa Fe by steamer. At the head of Lake Santa Fe, a beautiful sheet of clear, fresh water, nine miles long and three and one-half miles wide, where fish abound in countless numbers, is Melrose (p. 142), whence a railroad runs (30 m.) to Green Cove Springs. The next important station beyond Waldo is Gainesville (pop., 3,000; Arlington, $3; Brown, $2), one of the principal towns and railway centers in the western part of the State. Here the main line of the Plant System crosses the Florida Central, and there is also a road' directly east to Palatka. This city is the county seat of Alachua County, which takes its name from the Indian word for " sink hole," referring to a well-like 212 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. abyss in the ground of Payne's Prairie (now a large lake), into which flowed the surplus of Newnan's Lake, until the hole was choked by careless curiosity seekers. Here are the United States Land Office for Florida and the State Military Academy. The town is one of the oldest in the State, having arisen during the Seminole War, under the protection of Fort Clarke; and it was occupied for a short time by Massachusetts soldiers in 1864, just before the battle of Olustee. Its growth during the past few years has been phe- nomenal, and it has become a distributing point for the trade of a large and rich section of country. The city is situated on the edge of a vast tract of the richest hammock lands, at an elevation of 128 feet above the level of the sea. It has long been noted as a place of unusual sanitary attractions, and is already a popular and pleasant place of resort for winter visitors. The streets are wide and shady, and the business portion of the place contains a number of sub- stantial and well-arranged buildings, hotels, and boarding-houses. The three little stations of Arredonda, Kanapaha, and Palmer, soon passed west of Gainesville, ship large quantities of early vege- tables and fruit to Northern markets. Archer (Goodwood, $2) is a phosphate town, reached by a branch of the Plant System from High Springs, fifty-one miles north, and having a local railroad south into the exceedingly rich phosphate districts along the boundary of Levy and Marion counties, which connects through to Blue Springs and Homo- sassa. Bronson (Bronson, $2) is the county seat of Levy. Cedar Keys (pop., 2,000; Bettellini, $2; Schlemmer, $2) is the terminus on the Gulf of Mexico, and stands on Way Key, one of the islands, four miles out, that inclose the commodious harbor. It dates from the completion of the railway here, in 1861, when wharves and warehouses were built and commerce opened. These facilities were at once availed of, by the Confederate authorities, for blockade running, which went on for only a short time. In January, 1862, the Union navy learned that seven vessels were loaded and waiting for a chance to get out. Down came the Federal vessels, took possession of the town and its trifling garrison, captured and burned the ships and their cargoes of cotton and turpentine , entirely destroyed the railway terminus, wharves, and rolling stock, and, by keeping an eye upon the place afterward, stopped all hope of blockade running there. At the close of the war the railway and wharves were rebuilt, and a small town gradually grew upon the key, which is the calling point of all the coasting steamers, including the Morgan Line, weekly, and of steamers to all landings on the Crystal and Suwannee rivers. The great quantity of red cedar near here has led to the establish- ment of pencil factories, and there is an oyster-canning house, but FLORIDA. 213 the principal industry, apart from handling freight and phosphate, is in fish, turtles, and oysters, which are sent all over the interior, packed in ice. It has a supplying trade with ships, and with a large extent of coast. Cedar Keys itself has small attraction for the visitor, and less for the Northern resident, except the excellent fishing obtainable there, but it is a convenient place for starting upon a boating expedition up or down this almost untenanted and everywhere beautiful stretch of coast, from the Suwannee to Clear- water Harbor, of which it is the central haven and supplying point. The Suwannee Valley and West Florida. The Florida Central & Peninsular Rd. has a line across the northern tier of counties in Florida from Jacksonville to Tallahassee and Chattahoochee, on the borders of Alabama, continued by a line of the Louisville & Nashville Company to Pensacola, at the extreme western limit of the State. This connects with the New Florida Short Line (Route 14, p. 53), at Jacksonville, and with the lines from Fernandina, and from the south interior of the State, at Bald- win, and makes various connections at towns farther west. Leaving Jacksonville (Union station), the road pursues a course straight west through the long-leaf pine lands to Baldwin (p. 211), and thence, still due west, through lands producing lumber and naval stores, and vegetable-raising districts, to Lake City, sixty miles from Jacksonville. Macclenny (pop., 1,000; Macclenny House, $2) is near the St. Marys River, and has a business in cotton and in lumber floated down from Okefinokee Swamp. Thirteen miles east of Lake City is passed the little station, Ohistee, on Ocean Pond, which was the scene of a disastrous repulse of a Union army by the Confeder- ates in February, 1864. This was the most considerable battle that took place in Florida, outside of Pensacola, and has thus been sum- rtiarized by Lossing, though he does not describe the bad generalship which seems to have led the troops into a situation where their defeat was nearly certain : " Early in 1864 the Government was informed that the citizens of Florida, tired of the war, desired a reunion with the National Gov- ernment. The President commissioned his private Secretary (John Hay) a major, and sent him to Charleston to accompany a military expedition which General Gillmore was to send to F lorida, Hay to act in a civil capacity if required. The expedition was commanded by Gen. Truman Seymour, who left Hilton Head (February 5, 1864) in transports with 6,000 troops, and arrived at Jacksonville, Fla. , on 214 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. the 7th. Driving the Confederates from there, the Nationals pur- sued them into the interior. General Finnegan was in command of a considerable Confederate force in Florida, and stoutly opposed this invasion. At Olustee Station, . . .in the heart of a cypress swamp, the Nationals encountered Finnegan, strongly posted. A sharp battle occurred (February 20th), when Seymour was repulsed and retreated to Jacksonville. The estimated loss to the Nationals in this expedition was about 2,000 men; the Confederate loss, 1,000 men and several guns. Seymour carried with him about 1,000 of the wounded, and left 250 on the field, besides many dead and dying. The expedition returned to Hilton Head. Unionism in Florida seemed to be a myth. The Nationals destroyed stores valued at $1,000,000. At about the same time Admiral Bailey destroyed the Confederate Salt Works on the coast of Florida, valued at I3, 000,000." Lake City (pop., 2,000; small hotels, I2) is an old town, founded, like many others, upon a military post, and its streets are embow- ered in aged magnolias and live-oaks. Two hundred feet above the sea, and having good drainage, the locality is healthy, and the whole county, of which this is the capital, is prosperous. Here is the State Agricultural College and a United States Agricultural Experi- ment Station. The town has an academy for boys, and another for girls, besides the customary schools and churches. It is the market- town and supplying point for a region producing long-staple cotton, for which there is here a large steam cotton-gin and a knitting mill ; and an excellent Kind of cigar-leaf tobacco, which is regarded as the most profitable crop of the locality. In addition to this, great quan- tities of early vegetables are shipped North, and (until the freeze of 1895) many oranges. Lumber, chiefly yellow pine, is another important item (50,000,000 feet of lumber being sawed in this vicinity annually), and turpentine is a noteworthy local product. Building-stone is quarried in the neighborhood, and shipped far and wide, and there is an abundance of brick clay. This is the crossing-place of the Georgia Southern Rd., whose line (Route 23, p. 128) enters the State at Jennings, and passes through Jasper, the county seat of Hamilton, and White Sulphur Spring to this city, whence it continues seventy-three miles southeast, through Bradford and Putnam counties, to Palatka. Lake City is also the northern terminus of a branch of the Plant System, which connects with the main line twenty miles southward. White Sulphur Spring (Hotel, I2), mentioned above, is an old- time resort, twelve miles north of Lake City, on the Suwannee River, fashionable " befo' the wa'," but abandoned now, and grown lovely in its age. " Withdrawn timidly half a mile from the track, it FLORIDA. 215 seems a veritable sleepy hollow. The long, low, columned hotel, in two stages of dignity, one about 1820, the other about i860, occupies the entire east side of the town. It is, in itself, a study for an artist. Two magnificent rows of live-oaks, fringed with gray moss and crossing each other at right angles, give abundance of shade. A number of old and interesting homes, with pretty flower gardens, peep out here and there from the shadows, and near the river one splendid-clump of sycamores lift their boughs one hundred feet mto the air." The railroad west from Lake City trends gradually northward. Live Oak (pop., 1,000; small hotels, $2) is a lively market town, with large dealings in lumber and cotton. Here the Plant System from Dupont, Ga. , to Gainesville and Southern Florida, crosses the Florida Central, and eight miles north of the town is the station Suwannee Springs, on the south bank of the Suwannee River. A very copious spring of warm sulphur water gushes out of the ground, about which there has been made an ornamental park, with a hotel (I3) and numerous cottages, bathing arrangements, etc. These waters have a wide reputation for their medicinal value, particularly m ailments of the kidneys, and are extensively sold in all parts of the South and East. The Suwannee River is crossed thirteen miles west of Live Oak, at Ellaville, where connection is made with the Suwannee River Rd., running down the river to Hudson on the Suwannee, where steamer connections are made for all the landings on the river. The Suwannee River has a world-wide reputation, for who does not know the song "Way down upon de S'wannee ribber," which was written many years ago by Stephen Collins Foster, under the title " The Old Folks at Home." Its pure melody caught the ear of the people, who heard it sung by Christy's Minstrels, and it has spread all over the world. This has given to the Suwannee a sen- timental estimation far beyond that of almost any other river in the United States; and truly it is a beautiful stream, but no more attrac- tive than many another, which, like it, flows full and sluggish be- tween heavily wooded banks of magnolia, oak, sycamore, and pal- metto trees, from whose branches wave the spectral pendants and festoons of the Tillandsia, and in whose shadow lurk birds of gay plumage and creatures of strange and fearsome proportions. The very name of the river, which has its source in Wilcox and Dooley counties, Georgia, and is formed by the junction at Ellaville, Florida, of the Little and Allapaha rivers, is a matter of doubt. It is said to be a corruption of the Spanish name San Juanita or Little San Juan; once applied to this as is the first river west of the St. Johns (San Juan). The present writer has not had an opportunity to verify this; 16 216 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. but the name appears to him to be a Creek Indian word containing a reference to the Shawnee Indians, who had towns not far to the westward of it, one of which the Creeks called Sawanolgi. The Suwannee is navigable for large steamers as far as the mouth of the Santa Fe, which drains Lake Santa Fe (p. 211), and for smaller boats for some distance above that point ; and there is a regular line of steamboats to and from Cedar Keys, a trip upon which is one of the most attractive pleasures of Florida travel, and offers great oppor- tunities to the sportsman. West from Ellaville the railway crosses through Madison County, the principal station being Madison, the county seat. This county produces more cotton (long staple) than any other in Florida, and is also an extensive producer of fruit, especially grapes and figs. To the southward lies Taylor County, along the Gulf of Mexico, which is largely a vast swamp, almost unexplored, and harboring bears, pumas, deer, and smaller game. Crossing Aucilla River, into Jefferson County, the train reaches Drifton, the terminus of a branch of the Savannah, Florida & Western Railway, which comes south from Thomasville, Ga. (p. 51), and forms the ordinary approach from the north and east to Tallahassee. Five miles north of Drifton on this railroad is Monizcello (pop.; 1,700; St. Elmo, $4), which is the county seat and a flourishing market town, steadily growing into an impor- tant place. Its wide streets are described as shaded by superb trees, and often bordered by gardens where roses bloom the year round, and old-fashioned Southern mansions which stand among oaks and magnolias. Three miles north is the big Lake Miccosukie, which is surrounded by a forest of remarkable size and variety, and whose outlet disappears into a great sink-hole a short distance south of its borders. Continuing west of Drifton, the road crosses the head- waters of the St. Marks River and arrives at Tallahassee, 165 miles west of Jacksonville. Tallahassee (pop., 3.500; The Leon, $3-5o; St. James, $2.50) was originally the territorial capital of Florida, and, when the territory was admitted into the Union (1845), was retained as the capital of the new State; the name is derived from a Seminole word meaning " old city." During the first Seminole War, in 1818, Gen. Andrew Jackson cleared away the rebellious Indians then occupying the locality and the town was soon built up by settlers from the nearer States. The subsequent wars with Indians and white people have disturbed it but little, and the trees and gardens have attained to so magnificent a growth that they are now the glory of the city. FLORIDA. 217 In 1861 the Florida Ordinance of Secession was passed at Talla- hassee and many of its citizens enlisted, although those left behind were sufficient to repel, at the Natural Bridge (p. 218), in one of the severest battles of the State's record, an attempted attack of the Fed- erals, made mainly by colored troops, who approached by way of St. Marks. The United States troops occupied the city, only as a pre- cautionary measure, after hostilities ended. The city covers the top of a hill nearly 300 feet above the sea- level, which is surrounded by other hills, between which the eye can see far into the country. It thus secures, not only some charming views, but a most healthful climate, dry, yet tempered by the strong Gulf winds, and highly advantageous to those invalided by throat or lung troubles. The original Ordinance of Secession, and several interesting war relics, maps, torn battle-flags, and the like, can be seen in the old State House, which was erected in 1835, and, like many of the houses in the city, is a good example of colonial archi- tecture. Built of brick and stucco, with a stately portico, it stands in the midst of a grove of noble trees, on the brow of the hill, near the south end of Main Street. The soil about Tallahassee forms very good roads, and excursions are pleasantly made to Lake Bradford, three miles from the city, and to Lake Jackson, a large sheet of water which was so disturbed, by the same earthquake that upset Charleston in 1886, that it entirely disappeared through some subterranean outlet, taking several days to fill up again. It is well, apropos of this disappearace, to warn people against driving carelessly about this part of Florida, since the whole region is undermined by subterranean rivers, and often an apparently shallow puddle will disguise a bottomless sink-hole. Pi'incc Mu7-at, son of the King of Naples, and his Virginian wife, lived at their estate on a hill two miles west of the Tallahassee rail- way station. The graves of both are in the Episcopal cemetery, a few minutes' walk west of the Leon Hotel. At Lake Hall, six miles northeast on the Thomasville road, there is good fishing, and other lakes more distant furnish hunting as well as fishing grounds. Be Hair is an old suburb, a summer resort of Tallahassee society in former days, and is situated in the flat pine lands, on the St. Marks branch of the Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad. IVakiilla is another station on this branch, sixteen miles from Tallahassee, and is the stopping place for Wakulla Spring, which is also a favorite objective for long drives from Tallahassee. Here is a tremendous outpour of water, as clear as crystal for a depth of more than a hun- 218 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. dred feet, supplying the Wakulla River, that joins the St. Marks River at the little town of St. Marks. St. Marks is the terminus of this branch, twenty-one miles from Tallahassee, and the point of departure for excursion steamers and boating-parties out on the Gulf and up the St. Marks River. A fort of considerable strength, San Marcos de Apalache, of which some ruins still remain, two miles south of the present town, was built by the Spaniards in 1718. In 1862 a redoubt was thrown up near the lighthouse, on the point at the debouchment of the St. Marks River, but was destroyed by a United States gunboat. The river itself was somewhat used as a refuge for blockade-runners during the Civil War, but the vigilance of the Federal gunboats along the west coast made such business extremely risky. The Confederates erected salt works on the river in 1863, from which the Confederacy was supplied, but they, too, were destroyed by boat-crews from the Federal gun- boat, " Tahoma," that had shelled the redoubt. The stream St. Marks is believed to rise in Lake Miccosukee; its course can be traced by a series of open stretches of water and sinks, for much of the time it is underground. It is fed by many mineral springs, its water is of crystal purity, and no snags are found in it, though there is a tropical richness of vegetation along the banks. There were once three towns on its shores that are now little more than landings ; or, rather, one town existed in three places. Sixty years ago this whole district was covered with plantations, and Port Leon stood near the site of the present lighthouse, and was a ship- ping town of size and importance. But a terrific hurricane wiped it out of existence, along with plantations and. planters. Those citizens who survived rebuilt their town at Magnolia, eight miles up the river, but as a ledge of rocks obstructed the passage to the landing, they gradually moved down and reinstalled the town at Newport, near a great mineral spring, which became a watering-place of note in that region; but unfortunately a railroad was completed from Jacksonville to Tallahassee, which took away its shipping trade. Newport still exists, but in a very feeble fashion, though the large white sulphur spring, the cause of its former vogue, is beginning to attract tourists again. It can be reached by an excursion steamer. Above Newport the St. Marks River takes to underground ways, sinking for half a mile beneath an arch in one place, and thus forming the Natural Bridge. The main line of the Florida Central & Peninsular Rd. passes westward from Tallahassee out of Leon County, which is a great grass and hay-producing section in which live-stock and dairy farm- ing prospers, into Gadsden County, whose capital is Qznncy, a mile north of the railroad station of that name. Northern capitalists have PLORIDA. 219 revived the tobacco-growing industry here, and fine Havana wrap- pers are successfully raised on more than 15,000 acres, sustaining several cigar manufactories in Quincy. At the end of the line are the three stations Chattahoochee, River Junction, and Chattahoochee River, respectively 207, 208, 209 miles from Jacksonville. The first is a small village where, before the Civil War, was an arsenal of the United States Government. Before the State had seceded, this arsenal was seized by disunionists to whom the sergeant in charge had indignantly refused to surrender it — the first act of war in Florida; and afterward the building became a lunatic asylum. River Jiiiictioji is the point of connection with the Louisville & Nashville Rd. for Pensacola (p. 52), Mobile, and New Orleans. At Chattahoochee River there is the wharf where passengers can take steamers up and down the Apalachicola, Flint, and Chattahoochee rivers. Of these there are two lines, furnishing a boat for all points every two or three days. VI. ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. Route 27.— Queen & Crescent Line. Chattanooga to New Orleans and Shreveport. This is the continuation of Route i8, and follows the line of the Alabama Great Southern Railway, which passes from Chattanooga (p. loo) around Moccasin Bend, under the point of Lookout Moun- tain, and up Lookout Creek, over ground fiercely contested during the campaigns of 1863-4. One very severe encounter of that time took place about Wau hate hie, six miles out on the road leading from Lookout Moun- tain to Kelly's Ferry. Grant, in command at Chattanooga, wishing to open a direct road for supplies, ordered Hooker, then at Bridge- port, to cross the Tennessee to Lookout Valley, and menace Bragg's left. He reached the place October 28, 1S63, and sent General Geary with a small force to encamp at Wauhatchie, being anxious to hold the desired road to Kelly's Ferry. At one o'clock the next morning, McLaw's division of Longstreet's corps, which was then occupying Lookout Mountain, and which had been observant of Hooker's movements, attacked Geary's camp on three sides, aided by the batteries on the mountain, and hoping to overcome and capture Hooker's entire command. But they were met by a steady, deadly fire, the Federals were soon reinforced by Hooker, who had heard the commotion, and the Confederates were beaten off with the loss of 250 men, killed and prisoners, and many small arms. The National loss was over 400 killed and wounded. This victory opened a safe road for the passage of Federal supplies from Bridge- port to Chattanooga. The Battle of Wauhatchie was the scene of the incident that inspired the poem — a parody of the " Charge of the Six Hundred": " Mules to the right of them — Mules to the left of them — Mules all behind them Pawed, neighed, and thundered. Breaking their own confines — Breaking through Longstreet's lines, Testing chivalric spines, Into the Georgia lines Stormed the two hundred." (220) ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 221 This records the dash of 200 mules, which, frightened by the com- motion of the battle, stampeded into the Confederate lines, early in the fight, and caused a panic among the soldiers, who fancied that Hooker's cavalry was charging among them. The road is here crossing the extreme northwest corner of Georgia. This is the mountain-girt fastness in which, long years ago, the isolated population attempted to set up a^ little common- wealth of their own, to be called the State of Dade. But Georgia "called them down," and would do nothing more liberal than to organize the triangle into a county. Now vast quantities of coal and coke come from the mines in the rough Raccoon Range, on the west, where there is a mining center and coke-burning place called Cole City, reached by a rickety little railroad from Shell Mound. Alabama is entered just bej^ond Tj'entofi, the county seat of Dade, the low divide (1,027 ft.), separating the drainage of the Tennessee from that to the Gulf of Mexico (Coosa River), is passed at Valley Head, and the first stop by through trains is made at Fort Payne (51 m.) This town (De Kalb, $2; Sulphur Springs, special rates) was founded, in 1889, by Northern owners of mining and furnace property, who have built up here a flourishing manufacturing town, which is now the county seat of De Kalb, and has about 4,000 population. It is an incorporated city, with water, sewerage, elec- tric lights, etc. Near by are beds of coal, of which great quantities are turned into coke, and vast deposits of brown iron ore, which is extensively mined and smelted on the spot. As good stone, clay, fire-clay, and great forests are near by, these resources have all contributed to increase and diversify the manufactures here, which now include iron furnaces, steel mills, rolling mills, hardware, tile, fire brick, and terra cotta works, potteries, lumber mills, etc. An east and west line connects the town with the Chattanooga Southern Railway, and with the mining districts west. It is a fertile and very beautiful valley (of Will's Creek), down which the train pursues a straight southwesterly course to Attalla (36 m.). Lookout Mountain is close upon the left, until it disappears at Keene's, while on the right, is the long parallel Sand or Raccoon Range. At Attalla (pop., 1,500; Attalla House, $2.50), an iron manufacturing town, the tracks are crossed by a branch of the Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis Rd. from Huntsville, through Guntersville (Wyeth City), on the Tennessee, to Gadsden and southward. Gadsden is only five miles east of Attalla. 222 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN- STATES. Wyeth City is a new town merging into the old village of Gun- tersville. Coal, limestone, and iron abound in the immediate vicinity. "The conditions there are therefore such as caused the marvelous development of Birmingham and Anniston. The present manufac- tures at this new point are such as to utilize the abundant wood of the locality, and convert it into carved furniture, doors, sash and blinds, and woodenware. The capitalists interested in the new city are intent upon securing the establishment of iron-working and cotton and woolen factories there in the near future." The direct railway connections north and south, and the navigability of the Tennessee River, make the situation of the town very convenient for commercial purposes. Below Attalla the railroad runs through a well-settled, agricultural country, with many small stations, fifty-four miles to the manufactur- ing metropolis of the State. Birmingham (pop., with suburbs, 40,000; Florence, $2.50; Hotel Morris, European plan; Opera House, American and European plan; Metropolitan, special rates) is picturesquely situated among the wooded hills and ravines between the Cahawba and Black Warrior - rivers, and is an interesting, well built, modern city, gradually ac- quiring many beauties. Its electric cars run into pleasant hill-sub- urbs, where several parks and pleasure-gardens have been instituted; and excellent sport is to be had at no great distance. The score or more of railways and branches, reaching out from the city in all directions to coal and iron mines among the surrounding mountains, afford an endless variety of interesting excursions and sights; and the climate is healthful, the altitude of the city being over 600 feet, with suburban parts much higher above the level of the sea. Mining and Mafiufacttiring are the features of first interest at Birmingham, and these have been so broadly and admirably summed up by Julian Ralph, in a late article in Harper's Magazine (March, 1895), that it will be well to quote his remarks: " Birmingham is said to have been a farm at the close of the Rebellion, andbusy Anniston was a group of timbered hills very much later than that. There is a truly western flavor to the history of a land company in one of these cities. It divided more than $5,500,000 with its stockholders in a little more than five years, upon an invest- ment of $100,000. "The new city of Birmingham in 1880 had sixty establishments and twenty-seven industries, and in 1890 its establishments numbered 417 and its industries forty-eight, while the capital invested had swelled from two millions to seven millions of dollars. Its leading workshops are carriage and wagon factories, foundries, and machine- shops, three iron and steel working plants, planing mills, and print- ALABAMA AND THE GULF CO A SIT. 228 ing and publishing works. In what is known as the Birmingham district there are twenty-five iron furnaces, with a capacity for 2,600 tons of pig-iron daily. All are within twenty miles of the town. Consolidations of large companies have recently strengthened this remarkable iron center, adding to the economy with which its prod- ucts are obtained, and fitting it to meet a dull market better than before. Experts have declared that several of the works at this place stand as models in judicious construction and economical results to the whole country, and to Europe also. Some are so favorably located near ore and coal that it has been proved that nowhere in this country, and scarcely anywhere in Europe, can iron be made as cheaply as they can make it." This industrial activity and success has attracted a great number of railways and given the city extraordinary competitive transporta- tion facilities, which has led to the establishment here of a large wholesale trading business. The city is a station on the through lines of the Queen & Crescent and Louisville & Nashville routes north and south, and on the Southern Railway east and west. It is a terminus of the Central Railroad of Georgia, of a branch of the Southern from the south, and of the Kansas City, Memphis & Birm- ingham, and the Birmingham, Sheffield & Tennessee River Railroad from the west. In addition there are various local lines and through connections by which Ijhe city may be quickly and comfortably reached from all parts of the south and west. South from Birmingham the present route follows the tracks of the Alabama Great Southern road through Bessejner (pop., 5,000; The Hadden, $2), a steel-making suburb of Birmingham (11 m.), and turns westward to Tuscaloosa, the county town of Tuscaloosa County; an old military frontier post that became the capital of the territory; a fine, old-fashioned town at the head of steamboat navigation on the Black Warrior River, and the seat of the State University. It has large dealings in cotton. The line then follows down the rich river valley to Akron Junction, where it is joined by a branch of the Southern Railway leading southeast to Greensboro, Marion, Selma, and Montgomery; crosses the Black Warrior and pro- ceeds to Eutaw (pop., 1,200; Alexina, $2.50), another cotton market. Thence it takes a straight course southwest, crossing the Tombigbee River at Miller, to Meridian, Miss. Meridian (pop., 10,624; Planter's, special rates; Southern, $3; Grand Avenue, $2) is a large industrial city having a steady growth due to the large area of cotton-growing country tributary to it, and its railway advantages. The Mobile & Ohio extends south 135 miles 224 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. to Mobile (p. 231), and north to Hickman, Ky., and the Southern Railway's line passes through east and west from Selma (Route 26, p. i32)to Jackson and Vicksburg. Here the Alabama Great Southern terminates, and the Queen & Crescent trains pass to the tracks of the New Orleans & Northeastern Railroad which extend thence to New Orleans. This road from Meridian southwest passes through a thinly settled, but wonderfully beautiful part of Mississippi — a rolling country of trees, forests, and crystal streams, where deer and bear are still to be found, and where wild turkeys and such game are abundant. "When finally you reach Lake Poiichar train you are treated to a most extraordinary trip on the water, for you cross over the lake on the longest bridge in the world, it, with its approaches, being over sixteen miles in length. When you reach the middle of the bridge, and see the land dimly in the distance, you can but feel as if you were at sea, while the strong but pleasant lake breeze pours through the cars, and the red-sailed Italian luggers sail alongside the train." The station in New Orleans is on the Levee at the foot of Press Avenue, about two miles from Canal Street, which is reached by the Rampart & Dauphine and Barracks & Levee lines of street cars. This line runs daily a solid vestibuled train of the highest excel- lence through between Cincinnati and New Orleans, also a sleeping- car between New York and New Orleans, and a sleeper between Chattanooga and Shreveport, La. Route 28.— Louisville & Nashville Railroad to Mobile and New Orleans. The Louisville & Nashville Railroad Company operates exten- sive lines between the Ohio River and the Gulf of Mexico, and transports solid trains and through sleeping-cars between various terminal points. Its lines concentrate from the North at Nashville, with the exception of the " Jellico Route," already described as Route 17, p. 91. 1. From St. Louis via Evansville, Ind., and Guthrie, Ky. This carries (i) a sleeping-car between St. Louis and Jacksonville, via Evansville, Nashville, Birmingham, Montgomery, Bainbridge, Thomasville, and Waycross; (2) a sleeping-car between St. Louis and Atlanta, via Evansville, Nashville, and Route 19. 2. From Cincinnati and Louisville, carrying sleeping-cars (i) between Louisville and Nashville; (2) between Cincinnati and Louis- ville and Memphis, via Guthrie, Ky. ; (3) between Cincinnati and New ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 225 Orleans; and (4) between Cincinnati and Jacksonville, via Mont- gomery and the Plant System. The Nashville, Paducah &^ Cairo and the Nashville 6n> Evansville Packet Coinpa7iies have several steamers leaving Nash- ville tri-weekly for Evansville, Cairo, and intermediate points. Only one point north of Nashville need claim attention, and that briefly, in this book — The Mammoth Cave. — All trains now connect at Glasgow Junc- tion, ninety miles south of Louisville, with trains on the Mammoth Cave Railroad, direct to the Cave Hotel (12 m.) A stop-over is allowed on all tickets over the L, & N. Rd. At the hotel guides and boats can be procured. Some 200 miles of cave have now been explored, but only a small portion, though characteristic and sufficiently wonderful, is seen by the ordinary visitor, who can choose between the shorter route ($2) and a longer one ($3). As the cave keeps a uniform temperature of about 55 degrees F., the season of the year is a matter of no consequence. Special low rates, both at the hotel and in cave-fees, can be obtained for large parties by addressing the hotel proprietor. Twelve hours gives time enough for a hasty trip underground. Nashville (pop., 85,000; Duncan, I4; Maxwell, $3; Nicholson, $3; Linck's, $2.50; Utopia, European plan) is the most populous city and capital of the State. It covers a hilly site on both sides of the Cumberland River, and has many attractive features. The locality was first settled in 1780, and as early as 1806 the town became an incorporated city, and the capital in 1843. It was abandoned in a panic by all the military and civil officials and as many of the people as could get away, when the fall of Fort Donelson (p. 87) exposed it to Grant's Union army, who marched in and took quiet possession. The city was at once policed, and life there continued much as usual, the city being held by the Federals as the great central depot of supplies until the close of the war. This possession was threatened, however, in 1864, by Hood's invasion of Ten- nessee to the very gates of the city, from which he was repelled at The Battle of Nashville. — This great struggle, which destroyed the Confederate power in the West, occurred as follows: When Gen. J. B. Hood was compelled to evacuate Atlanta, he moved north and tried to destroy Sherman's railroad communications with Chatta- nooga. He did much damage, but w^as soon driven away, and then turned into Xorthern Alabama, trying to lure Sherman out of Georgia 226 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. in pursuit, but that commander declined and turned back to begin his " March to the Sea," as has been told imder Route 21 (p. 124), leaving Hood encamped along the Tennessee River, near Florence, Ala. This was early in November, 1864. At this time the Union army in Tennessee was commanded by Gen. George H. Thomas, who kept a part of his force at Pulaski, Tenn., to watch Hood and check his advance. This was finally increased to 30,000 men, and put under command of General Schofield. On November 17th, Hood, who had about 45,000, began a northward advance in such a way as to pass around the Union force. Scho- field's orders were not to fight a battle if he could avoid it, but to retreat slowly to Nashville, retarding the enemy as much as he could. There was a slight skirmish at Columbia on the 21st, and on the 30th Schofield had arrived at Franklin. Hood followed closely and reached Franklin in time to make an attack next day. The fight was very desperate and sanguinary. The Confederate generals led their men in repeated charges, and many field-officers fell, and the fighting continued with great severity until long after the night closed in, when the Confederates drew off. The losses on both sides in this battle amounted to about 2,000 killed and nearly 5,000 wounded. Thomas made no effort to reinforce Schofield at Franklin, as military critics are disposed to think he should have done, and so make the decisive battle there instead of waiting until Hood came to Nashville, but ordered Schofield to continue his retreat to the city. Hood immediately followed and invested Nashville almost without inter- ference. Meanwhile Thomas had been making active preparations to hold the town, which was very strongly fortified. He had received reinforcements, and had armed and placed in the intrenchments 10,000 detailed and citizen-employes of the quartermaster's depart- ment. This position of affairs gave great encouragement to the South and caused the keenest anxiety at Washington and throughout the North. General Grant, then in command of all the armies, and operating before Richmond, urged Thomas in the most emphatic manner to move against the enemy without delay; but it was two weeks before he felt himself ready. Grant writes in his " Memoirs " that Thomas had troops to annihilate Hood in the open field. ' ' To me, his delay was unaccountable — sitting there and permitting him- self to be invested, so that, in the end, to raise the siege, he would have to fight the enemy strongly posted behind fortifications. It is true the weather was very bad. The rain was falling and freezing as it fell, so that the ground was covered with a sheet of ice that made it very difficult to move. But I was afraid that the enemy would find means of moving, elude Thomas, and manage to get north of the Cumberland River." Grant became so impressed by the momentous danger that he made preparations to supersede Thomas by Logan, and then on the 15th of December he himself started to take personal command in the West. The reasons and circumstances which induced Thomas to ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 227 permit Hood's investment, and the alarming delay that ensued, ha-ve been told by one of Thomas' staff-officers in an article upon the bat- tle, with illustrations, published in The Cetitury for 1887, p. 597. At last, on the morning of December 15, 1864, Thomas attacked Hood's fortifications and relieved the anxiety of the country. The story can not be more succinctly told thaa in Grant's words: " The battle during the 15th was severe, but favorable to Union troops, and continued until night closed in upon the combat. The next day the battle was renewed. After a successful assault upon Hood's men in their intrenchments, the enemy fled in disorder, routed and broken, leaving their dead, their artillery, and small arms in great numbers, on the field, besides the wounded that were captured. Our cavalry had fought on foot as infantry, and had not their horses with them, so that they were not ready to join in the pursuit the moment the enemy retreated. They sent back, however, for their horses, and endeavored to get to Franklin, ahead of Hood's broken army, by the Granny White road, but too much time was consumed in getting started, . , . Our cavalry then went into bivouac and renewed the pursuit on the following morning. They were too late. The enemy already had possession of Franklin and was beyond them. Our troops continued the pursuit to within a few miles of Columbia, where they found the rebels had destroyed the railroad bridge as well as all other bridges over Duck River. . . , There was, conse- quently, a delay of some four days in building bridges out of the remains of the old railroad bridge. Of course Hood got such a start in this time that further pursuit was useless, although it was con- tinued for some distance." The remnants of Hood's army made their way eastward, joined the forces of Joe Johnston, and were a part of that army when it was surrendered to Sherman a few months later. Nashville is now one of the most flourishing of Southern cities. It has extensive manufactures of all sorts, especially of hard-wood wares, and flour mills of enormous capacity. It is regularly laid out, is well built in its central part, has good water and drainage, gas, electricity, and a large system of electric street-railways. These all center at the Public Square, which is adorned by the Court House, whose Corinthian porticoes on all sides make it a very striking build- ing. The Federal custom house and post office, a Gothic structure costing $1 ,000,000, is also conspicuous. The most important building in the city, however, is the State Capitol, which stands on the summit of Capitol Hill and is approached on four sides by flights of marble steps and ornamental terraces. It is built of a fine fossiliferous lime- stone, is imposing in style, and is surmounted by a tower 206 feet high. During the siege of the city it became a military citadel, the grounds were filled with troops and the hill and even the porticoes bristled with cannon. ■ Other State institutions here are the Peni- 228 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. tentiary and asylums for the blind and the insane. The educational institutions of Nashville are among its strongest claims to notice. Of these the leading one is Vanderbilt University, which has been munificently endowed by the Vanderbilt family, based upon an origi- nal gift of |i, 000,000 by the old commodore, and occupies twenty buildings on grounds seventy-six acres in extent. It offers a wide range of the higher studies and has from 700 to 800 students annually, making it the largest collegiate institution in the South. The Uni- versity of Nashville is another well established college, operating in connection with the Peabody Normal College. It has fine buildings and about 300 students, and its library and museum (in th® medical department) are well worth visiting. Fisk University is a well known and successful college for colored students, and there are several other advanced schools for the education of this race. In the Wat- kifis Institute are the Haward Library and the rooms and galleries of the Historical and the Art associations of the city. The National Cemetery, containing 16,533 bodies of Union soldiers who fell in the West, 4,701 of whom are unknown, occupies a beautiful situation four miles to the northward. There are many medicinal springs and popular mountain resorts in the neighborhood, especially to the north and east. The Cumberland River is open to navigation nearly all the year round, and has several lines of steamboats upon which pleasant jour- neys can be made. Railroads radiate from Nashville in all directions. (i) North to Evansville, Louisville, Cincinnati, and other points on the Ohio River — all in the Louisville & Nashville system. (2) West to the Mississippi River at Cairo, Hickman, and Memphis. Five miles in this direction is Gen. W. H. Jackson's famous stock farm Belle Meade. (3) East up the Cumberland Valley. In this direction are several places of note. Hermitage, the home and plantation of Andrew Jackson, President of the United States, 1829 to 1837, is distant twelve miles and is a fine example of the old-time southern rural manor house. The owner is buried within the grounds. (4) Southeast to Chattanooga. Route 19. (5) South by the Louisville & Nashville Railroad, as follows: The Louisville & Nashville Route, South from Nashville, passes through a hilly, cultivated, and very pleasant region, with stations at Franklin, nineteen miles, and ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 229 Columbia, forty-seven miles. These are the two battle towns described above. At Columbia (pop., 6,000; Bethel, $2.50; Guest, $2; Metropolitan, special rates), on Duck River, a line diverges southwest to Lawrenceburgh and Florence (p. 99); and another southeast through Lewisburg, Fayetteville, and a region abounding in mineral springs to Huntsville and Decherd. The main line continues straight south through Pulaski, enters Alabama, just after crossing Elk River, and crosses the Tennessee fourteen miles beyond Athens, into Decatur (p. 99). The course from this point is as straight south as the foothills of the Cumberland Mountains will permit, traversing a rather sparsely cultivated, heavily forested, and hilly country. Fifty-two miles south of Decatur are the Blount Sprmgs, a well-known medicinal resort, where a strongly alkaline sulphur water is available for the cure of all the diseases to which it is suited. The property and hotel are owned by a company who have provided every facility for baths, etc. The hotel stands in a picturesquely hilly and forested country, 450 feet above the sea. Thirty-four miles south from Blount Springs brings the traveler to Birmingham (Route 27). The next point is Calera, thirty-three miles south; after which there is a run of sixty miles to the crossing of the Alabama River, three miles north of Montgomery. The capital of Alabama (pop., 25,000; Galatas and Fleming hotels, European plan; Exchange, $2.50; Windsor, I2.50 Mabson's, $2) is near the head of practicable navigation on the Alabama, and owes its first rise to that fact. Steamboats actually ascend to Wetumpka — the site of the prehistoric Upper Creek town at the rapids of the Coosa, forty-two miles (by river), above Mont- gomery. The Alabama is formed by the confluence, ten miles above the city, of the Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers; some miles above their junction they are separated at bends, by only a narrow ridge of land, and there was strategically placed Fort Jackson, a frontier military post for protection against the Creeks, who had been beaten in 18 14 by Jackson. Montgomery was founded in 181 7, and Alabama was admitted as a State in 18 19; but Tuscaloosa was its first capital, and the government was not removed to Montgomery until 1847. The State House, a fine old building now enlarged, amid a large park in the center of the city, from whose dome an excellent view is obtained, was erected in 1851. That part of Alabama early became a very rich cotton-grownng region, besides furnishing iron, lumber, and various other products; and Montgomery soon became the principal market- 230 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. town of a wide territory, and the residence of its most wealthy and influential men whose fine old-fashioned homes remain to make this one of the best examples of a fine old Southern town. Here on February 4, 1861, the convention of the six States that then proposed to secede from the Union, assembled, and, in the Legislative Hall of the capitol, organized the provisional government of a new league which they hoped to organize into a separate commonwealth, to be styled " The Confederate States of America." This government was transferred to Richmond, Va., July 20, 1861. Its remote position and lack of strategic importance saved this city from the consequences of this act almost to the last days of the ineffectual government thus organized, for it was not until April, 1865, after the surrender of Lee and Johnston (p. 42), that Wilson's federal cavalrymen entered the town and destroyed its iron works and railways. Then, as now, Montgomery was a manufacturing as well as commercial city, having collieries (near by), rolling mills, railway shops, and varied factories. At present the cotton mills are most important; 150,000 bales of cotton are said to be handled at Montgomery annually, and the local spinning of this staple is very large. Besides the capitol, the Federal building, the city hall, court house, and new railroad station are notable buildings. The Alabama River pursues a very crooked course westward as far as Selma, where it turns southward, and, in the southwest corner of the State, unites with the Tombigbee River, draining the western edge of the State, to form the Mobile River, which empties into Mobile Bay. It is 330 miles by the river from Montgomery to Mobile — a voyage of picturesque interest — or more than twice the distance by rail. Montgomery is a railway center of importance, eight lines radiat- ing from its Union station. (i) The east and west line of the Western Railway of Alabama, continuing west to Selma (p. 131), Route 25. (2) The Savannah, Americus & Montgomery Railroad to Savan- nah (p. 21). (3) Central Rd. of Georgia southeast to Union Springs, Eufaula, and southern connections. (4) Alabama Midland Railway — a part of the Plant System , extend- ing southeast through Troy and Ozark to Bainbridge and Thomas- ville(p. 51); this way passes a sleeping-car over the Louisville & Nash- ville Route and Plant System between St. Louis and Jacksonville, (5) The present route north and south, as follows: ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 231 From Montgomery southward the Louisville & Nashville Line makes its way through a wooded, agricultural region, gradually becoming the level lowlands of the coast region, and taking on the characteristics of these warm latitudes. The heads of numerous streams are crossed, all draining southeast into the Persimmon and Sepulga rivers. The principal stations are Greenville (pop., 3,000), Evergreen (pop., 2,000; Magnolia, I2.50), and Brewton (pop., 1,200). At Flomaton, on the Escambia, where a branch comes in from Pensacola (p. 52) forty-three miles directly south, the route turns sharply west, crosses the Escambia River, runs along the edge of Florida to the crossing of the Perdido, and then bends southward to Tensas, where it crosses successively the Apalachee and Mobile rivers, and turns down the right bank of the latter into the city of Mobile. The remarkable bridges and general engineer- ing difficulties of this last section of the line will attract the attention of men of practical knowledge in such matters. Mobile (pop., 55,000; Battle House, I3; Windsor, $2.50; South- ern, European plan) is the seaport and principal commercial city of Alabama, and is situated on the western bank of Mobile River, at the head of Mobile Bay, about thirty-five miles from the open gulf. "Like Savannah, Charleston, and the French quarter of New Orleans, Mobile ^till remains characteristically Southern. Her avenues are broad and well shaded, the dwellings large anji airy, and half hidden in exquisite gardens and sloping lawns. Even in the poorer streets, roses, magnolias, camellias, and jasmine fill the air with fragrance. The pretentious brick houses with Mansard roofs and colored glass, so common in Eastern cities, which the Northern and Jewish newcomers are beginning to erect, in some of the South- ern towns (quite unconscious, apparently, that they are not only ugly, but totally unstiited to a warm, damp climate), have not as yet vulgarized Mobile's old-time grace. She turns to the stranger a quiet, home-hke, friendly face, with that indefinable gracious air of good breeding in it. which only generations of ease and hospitality can give even to houses. No money or architect can impart it to blocks of magnificent mansions built for display." Mobile as a business town is of growing importance. Her net receipts of cotton, in 1894-5, were 240,220 bales, one-half of which was exported, 10,626 bales going to Mexico. She has powerfttl presses and gins, mills for making cotton-seed oil, and factories for cotton cloth. Lumber and naval stores are also an important article of commerce, while iron mills and foundries, railway and other machine shops, shipyards, carriage furniture, barrel and woodenware factories are among her industries. ;9 233 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. Steamships run from Mobile to Liverpool, Mexico (Vera Cruz), and Cuba; the last named is the Plant System's weekly line to Port Tampa, Key West, and Havana. There are also boats that go far up the rivers and around the bay. Here comes in the Mobile & Ohio Railroad (Route 29), and the road from Selma, connecting with the Southern Railway (Route 26). The neighborhood of the city affords delightful excursions and the city contains a great deal to interest the observant traveler, as has been suggested above. Government Street is one of the finest urban avenues in the South. The Shell Road has long been famous. It is a shell-paved boulevard, running for several miles down the shore of the bay, bordered by old and far-spreading oaks and magnolias, thickly hung with the graybeard moss. Old plantation houses and suburban residences alternate with newer structures, and the whole length is instructive and delightful. Frascati and Belleview are pleasant places down this road, on the shore, reached by street cars. Spring Hill is a favorite suburb, six miles west, connected with the city by a steam railroad from St. Francis Street, and containing a Jesuit college (St. Joseph's), founded in 1832, and well equipped. The Bay affords splendid fishing in great variety, and excursions by sailing craft or steamboat are always to be included among possi- ble pleasures at Mobile. Daphne and Point Clear are villages on the eastern shore, where there are hotels. In History Mobile has borne a prominent and picturesque part, for the city is one of the oldest settlements within the United States. It was visited by the earliest Spaniards, but its permanent story begins with the arrival of Iberville, in 1699, who sailed along this coast with a well -equipped and scientific French expedition, in search of the mouth of the Mississippi, which LaSalle had recently descended almost to its outlet. Consult John Fiskes* ' ' Basin of the Mississippi." Iberville entered the bay, sounded it, learned that it was not the mouth of the river he was seeking, and left it behind; but it appears on his map fairly well drawn. Continuing west between the line of islands and the mainland, through the broad reaches of Mississippi Sound, he discovered the features of the coast, got acquainted with the Indians, and finally was led overland by them to the Great River. Returning, he left a garrison, under his brother, Bienville, on Biloxi Bay, and sailed away to France to deliver to his king the proofs of what he had found for the possession of his country. In 1701 the French left Biloxi and established themselves at the head of Mobile Bay, but had poor success, finally sharing in the temporary prosperity and subsequent ruin brought to all that region by John Law and his ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 333 famous •• Mississippi Scheme." In 1763. Mobile and the neighboring shore-settlements were regarded as a part of Florida and ceded by- France to England, but this shore was seized by Spain in 1779, who held it until the outbreak of the war between the United States and England, in 1812 (see Pensacola, p. 52), when the United States, under our interpretation of the cession of Louisiana from France, seized Mobile and some other places, as strategic points. The Span- iards were expelled and a battery (Fort Bowyer) was built on Mobile Point. This was the extremity of the long sandspit extending west- ward from the mainland across the mouth of the bay. This is continued westward of the entrance to the bay (where the improved channel is now twenty- three feet deep), by Dauphin Island, beyond which are Petit Bois, Horn, and the other long, narrow islands that form the outside barrier of Mississippi Sound. After the close of this war, when the country of Alabama began to be settled and Mobile became a port of importance, the United States erected a new fort (Morgan) at Mobile Point, and another (Gaines) on the opposite extremity of Dauphin Island, commanding the channel. Alabam.a was among the most ardent adherents of the secession movement, whose first capital was on her soil (p. 231). The Mobile Bay ports were seized, greatly strengthened and fully garrisoned, and the city was thoroughly fortified. For a long time it and Wilmington were the most important seaports the Confederates had, for the blockade could not be thoroughly preserved. It had been a part of Grant's plan to move upon Mobile immediately after the fall of Vicksburg, but he was prevented. A year later he gave orders for an attack upon it by the.army at New Orleans, under Canby, but that officer was so slow in preparations that nothing came of it. Sherman was undecided when he left Atlanta whether he would not march to Mobile instead of Savannah, but chose the latter. Hence Mobile remained untouched until nearly the end of the war. The harbor, however, was captured much sooner. In August, 1864, Admiral Farragut appeared off the coast with a fleet, headed by his flagship, the "Hartford." Lashing his vessels into couples, and forming a column, he boldly sailed past the forts, exchanging a terrific cannonade, and entered the bay, where a Confederate flotilla awaited him. This was the battle in which Farragut stood in the rigging, where he was lashed by direction of the captain of the " Hartford," in order to supervise the movements. No vessel was sunk by the forts, but the monitor " Tecumseh" was destroyed by a torpedo. The greatest of the Confederate vessels was the ram " Tennessee," which rushed at the flagship, but missed her and was beaten off. At night she returned to the attack, and a terrific battle ensued, which resulted in disabling her and forcing her to surrender. Nearly all the Confederate squadron was destroyed, and next day the land forces and fleet together captured the forts. These forces were not sufficient to land and capture the city, but as its harbor had now been hermetically sealed, and as Sherman had by this time got between it and the Virginian armies, its usefulness was mainly gone and Its capture of secondary moment. It I'emained thus, an almost 234 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. isolated stronghold, until the spring of 1865. It was then "the best fortified place in the Confederacy " and garrisoned b}'- 15,000 veteran troops. A large force, aided by the navy, attacked it on the east and north, and severe battles were fought at Blakely and Spanish Fort. The outer walls were gradually gained, and preparations for a final bombardment and assault were made, but on April nth the city was evacuated by the garrison, who escaped up the rivers on steam- boats. The Union loss of vessels, by torpedoes, and of lives was great, but the Confederates lost more, and abandoned $2,000,000 worth of military stores. Westward from Mobile, the Louisville & Nashville Route is close along the coast to New Orleans, 140 miles distant. Its first course is southwest forty miles to Scranton, Miss, (pop., 1,500; No^^es, $2; Scranton, $2), the county seat of Jackson, at the mouth of Pascagoula River, which Iberville explored in 1699. The railroad then crosses this river to the narrow Spanish Point, and west of that crosses Pascagoula Bay, then proceeds westward to Ocean Springs on Biloxi Bay. This is a pleasure resort, where Northwestern people assemble in winter, and are replaced by New Orleans folk in summer. The Ocean Springs Hotel ($2) and several large boarding-houses supply the transient need, and there are many cottages. Four miles west of Ocean Springs, and on the western side of Biloxi Bay, which is crossed by a long bridge, is Biloxi, the principal of tlie Mississippi resorts on this coast. It has been lately described in a sympathetic and charm- ingly illustrated article by Julian Ralph in //(a:;-/^?''^- Magazine for May, 1895, where the reader is given to understand that the villages along this coast are ' ' bits of dreamland " where nobody has the power to think or do anything serious — a land of natural and perfect rest and recreation. The village, which has some 3,500 inhabitants and three or four hotels, of which the most prominent is the Montross ($2.50), is one of the oldest of the gulf resorts. " It is made up of little cottages of pretty and uncommon designs that have sprung from French beginnings. Often the second stories project beyond the parlor floors so as to provide a lower porch; and here and 'there are seen prettily shaped openings in the upper stories so as to make additional galleries. When vines trail up the house fronts and frame these galleries the effect is very pretty. Vegetation is abundant, the trees are of great size, and flowers grow in luxuriance, though it is whispered that there is sufficient chill in the air of winter nights to make it prudent to pull the potted plants in doors in cold spells. The green gardens and chromatic cottages lie prettily beside white sand streets, where there are no sidewalks, but borders of grass instead. Natives point out the trees as chinaberries, willows, cypresses, magnolias, oranges, pecans. ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 235 plums, and apples. The people love the castor-bean, because it has a tropical look, I suppose, and thrives so well down there. I have seen fifty-three orange trees in one garden, checkered with golden fruit and greenery, and have found the oranges as deli- cious as any I ever ate. The buds come upon the trees before the fruit is plucked. The people in the tiny streets and gardens are extremely democratic. They talk to all who pass their way, and if a stranger like myself refuses to make a free exchange of his business for theirs, they will give up theirs quite as freely, if he will stop and listen. " These are often Western folk, -for our Eastern people have not discovered this perpetual summer land, but have allowed men and women from the other end of the Mississippi Valley to steal this march upon them. Therefore we find a small section of the place spoken of as a Michigan settlement, and in addition there are many regular winter visitors from Wisconsin, Iowa, and Illinois. They discovered the Gulf Coast about seven years ago, and make it a habit to come either in November or after the holidays, and to stay until warm weather reaches the North. The greater number go to Pass Christian, a rather new place, prettily spread along the beach, and with a large, well-managed hotel maintained by Chicago people. Ocean Springs, Bay St. Louis, and Biloxi are the other resorts. Biloxi, the oldest, is the most quaintly typical, slightly Frenchified Southern town of them all. Bathing, fishing, driving, and cottage and hotel life are the diversions. "A great many of these visitors buy cottages and modernize them, renting them for a $ioo or a $150 when they go away in the summer, at which time the New Orleans folk come along." Jefferson Davis, President of the Southern Confederacy, was the most distinguished of Biloxi's citizens, living at his country place, Beaiivoir, near by. He resided there after his release from Fortress Monroe, in 1867, until his death in 1889. The place is a tract of about ten acres, looking out upon the gulf, surrounded by forest and devoted mainly to the cultivation of the Scuppernong grape. The house, which is large and low, was an excellent example of the old- fashioned aristocratic planter's residence in the old South, and was beautifully adorned within. It is not now occupied and the whole place is rapidly falling into ruins. West of Biloxi the railroad runs close along the edge of the gulf, or, to be more exact, of Mississippi Sound, whose waters are protected from the outer sea by a line of tropically beautiful islands, most of which belong to the United States as military reservations. The station for Beauvoir (5m.) is passed and Mississippi City is reached. This is the county seat of Harrison, and is a pleasure resort much like Biloxi. (Gulf View, $2; Cedar Cottage, special SSe G UiDE TO SO UtnEA S TERN S TA TES. rates.) Gulfport, Long Beach, and Pass Christian are small stations frequented by pleasure-seekers and fishermen. The latter is on the east side (Henderson's Point) of St. Louis Bay, across which the rail- road is carried on trestles to the town of Bay St. Louis (pop., 2,000; Clifton, $2.50; Crescent, $2; Bay St. Louis, $2), the capital of Hancock County, and a seaside resort. A few miles farther the mouth of Pearl River and the outlet of Lake Ponchartrain are crossed, and the road passes through the dense swamps and cane- brakes that form a watery wilderness, separating the open lakes Ponchartrain and Borgne, and enters New Orleans. The station is on the Levee at the foot of Canal Street, where street cars may be taken to all parts of the city, and the various ferries and steamer lines are close at hand. Route 29.— Mobile & Ohio Railroad. The Mobile & Ohio Railroad is a long-established route between St. Louis (Union depot) and Mobile, with close connections to Florida by steamer, and to New Orleans at Meridian, Miss. Through sleeping-cars are attached to all trains. Its south-bound trains take a straight course from East St. Louis to Cairo, cross into Kentucky, and pass down through the low-lying, corn-growing, western end of this State, and of Tennessee, with Columbus, Union City, Jackson at the crossing of the Illinois Central Rd., and Henderson as the prin- cipal stations. This was the territory of the early campaigns of 1862, and was a raiding ground until the end of the Civil War. The first station in Mississippi is Corinth, twice the scene of hard battling (p. 97); and all the stations onward to Tupelo, where the Kan- sas City, Memphis & Birmingham Rd. is crossed, can tell stories of assault and repulse. At one of them, Booneville, twenty miles south of Corinth, and the judicial seat of Prentiss County, Sheridan won almost his first distinction as an independent cavalry com- mander, by skillfully and boldly routing a Confederate force three times as large as his own (July i, 1862). Tupelo, the capital of Lee County, was a Confederate military center, in 1862. Again, while Grant was operating against Vicksburg, his cavalry under Grierson were active in this northern part of the State, largely to prevent reinforcements being sent to Johnston, in Grant's rear (at Jackson, Miss.); and, for the sake of general purposes, they tore up this and all other railroads and telegraphs near here; destroyed a great Luray Caverns THE MANSION INN WALTER CAMPBELL, I iiqaV \/A Proprietor. L-Ur(AY^ VA RATES, $ 2.00 PER DAY. 10.00 PER WEEK. Open Four Seasons of the 7ear. Bus to all Trains, and Transfer to Caverns, daily. STEAM HEAT, ELECTRIC BELLS, HOT AND COLD BATHS. ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 237 amount of public property, factories, foundries, and the like; broke Johnston's communications by passing clear around his army, and finally swept through Southern Mississippi and the towns along the Gulf Coast, and around into the Union lines in Baton Rouge. It was one of the boldest and most successful raids of the war on either side. At Muldon, a branch (9 m.) leads northeast to Aberdeen (pop., 3,500; Hotel Gordon, $2.50; Commercial, $2), county seat of Monroe. A few miles farther is West Point (junction). Here the Illinois Central Railroad's branch from Aberdeen to Kosciusko crosses the Mobile & Ohio, passing through Starkvz'He, county seat of Oktibbeha, and locality of the State Agricultural College, fifteen miles southwest. Here also crosses the Southern Railway's through route from Atlanta to the Mississippi River, at Greenville. Fifteen miles southeast is Columbus (pop., 15,000; Gilmer, ^2; West, $2), the largest city in Mississippi, which has grown up as a cotton- trading and manufacturing town of importance, within a few years. Birmingham is 119 miles distant, directly east. Columbus and Starkville are connected with the main line of the Mobile & Ohio by branches from Artesia, a junction (restaurant) thirteen miles south of West Point. The most beautiful part of Mississippi suc- ceeds, as the train runs straight south through a hilly and well- cultivated region to Merzdiaji (p. 223), where connections are made for New Orleans direct (Route 27), and east and west. From Meridian the road descends the Chickasawhay Valley, through Quit- man and Waynesboro as far as the northern border of Greene County, when it swerves eastward into Alabama, and heads straight for Mobile. In the northern part of Washington County, Alabama, reached from Bucatunna Station by daily stages, are the Healing Springs (Hotel, I2), which have a widely local reputation for their curative properties in all diseases of the digestive organs. The sanitarium is in the midst of elevated pine woods, and there are several springs whose water is not only drunk at the place, but shipped in kegs to customers elsewhere. Another station, on this line, is worthy of note — Cztrofielle, thirty-two miles north of Mobile, where the Hygeia Hotel (I2.50) offers a sanitarium and pleasure resort in the pine woods, which is much appreciated by the people of that region. Distance, St. Louis to Mobile, 644 miles, to New Orleans, via this route, 705 miles. (For Mobile see page 231.) S38 G HIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. Route 30. - Illinois Central Railroad, Chicago and St. Louis to ]N^ew Orleans. The lines of the Illinois Central Railroad from Chicago, the North- west, and St. Louis, concentrate into one at Cairo, which proceeds south through Western Kentucky and Tennessee and Central Missis- sippi. Fulton, Ky., is the place of change for Memphis over the Chesapeake, Ohio & Southwestern Rd. At Afartm, Tenn., the next stop, change for the Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis Ry. to Nashville and southward by Route 19. At Milan, the Louisville & Nashville is crossed; and at Jackson, Tenn., historic ground is entered, for this was the scene of severe cavalry raiding during the Civil War, and became the hea'dquarters and base of operations of the Union Army under Halleck and Grant which paused here so long and fruitlessly in 1862. Jackson is now an enterprising town of over 10,000 people (Depot, special rates; Armour, special rates; New Arlington, $2.50; Pickwick, $2; Robinson, $2), where the Mobile & Ohio Railroad intersects north and south with the Tennessee Midland Railway west to Memphis and east to Lexington and Perryville on the Tennessee River. It is the market town of a large and fertile region, and does considerable manufacturing. Here is the West Tennessee College and a large, girls' academy. At Medon, eleven miles south of Jackson, a sharp engagement between the Union bridge-guard and guerrillas occurred on September i, 1862, and the same day another engagement, a few miles west, also resulted in the discomfiture of these irregular cavalrymen, who were the curse of that region, and in unusual loss to them. Bolivar, on the Hatchie River and the county seat of Hardeman (pop., 1,200; Acton, $2; Bolivar, $2), was the scene, just before August 30th, of an attack by a strong Confederate force which was driven away with severe loss; all these fights were incidents in a Confederate movement on Jackson thus frustrated. Eighteen miles below Bolivar is Grand Junction, the crossing of the Memphis & Charleston Rd. (Route 20) where fighting occurred, and General Sherman and his staff once came very near being captured, as also did Grant, not far away, a few months earlier. Nothing could have been bolder, more rapid and courageous than the behavior of the Southern cavalry, regular and irregular, in that part of the country during the whole of the Civil War. That was Forrest's especial field of operations; and had he not stained his reputation with the massacre of Fort Pillow, he would ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 2B9 have been regarded as one of the greatest, as he was one of the most dashing and skillful, of the Confederate leaders. Twenty-five miles below Grand Junction the line reaches Holly Springs, Miss, (pop., 2,500; Illinois Central Depot House, I3; Waverly, $2.50; Holly Springs, $2), at the crossing of the Kansas City, Memphis & Bir- mingham Railroad from Memphis to Birmingham, Ala. This town was occupied by the Confederate General Price, in the summer of 1862, with an army that caused Grant much uneasiness; and it was from here that Price moved in September to join with Van Dorn in the attack upon luka Springs and Corinth (p. 97), which proved so great a failure for him. Holly Springs remained as the Confederate headquarters, however, under command of Pemberton, until, early in November, Grant was sufficiently reinforced to assume the offensive. By the middle of the month he had taken possession of the town without much opposition, Pemberton having retreated to fortifications on the south side of the Tallahatchie near Abbeville, a railway station eighteen miles below. Here he was flanked and again retreated down the road and was followed by the Union men as far as Oxford. This town (pop. , i ,800; M'Kee, I2 ; Hotel Anderson, %'!) is the capital of Lafayette County and contains the University of Mississippi, one of the most flourishing colleges in the South and especially notable for its astronomical work. It occupies a hilltop 450 feet above sea level. These movements were a part of Grant's intended campaign against Vicksburg, co-operative with a force under Sherman and Porter, which were descending the Mississippi River to attack that stronghold, and if possible open the river to the sea. Mean- while the Confederate General Van Dorn, made a dash at Grant's line of communications (this railroad was then called the Mississippi Central), and was able to destroy it in places, and to capture wholly the garrison, and destroy an immense quantity of stores gathered at Holly Springs. " The capture," Grant records, "was a disgraceful one to the officer commanding, but not to the troops under him." Grant then began to live off the country, swept the whole neighbor- hood clean of food and forage, sent cavalry to drive Van Dorn away and restore the railway. He was, however, compelled by orders from Washington to diminish his forces, until they were too few for his purpose; he also learned that Pemberton had taken the bulk, of his force to Vicksburg, which Sherman was unable to reach by river owing partly to this fact, and partly to the tremendous difficulties met with in the swamps north of that city^, and that consequently he would better abandon this advanced position, which he did in January, 1863, while the river expedition returned to Memphis. Grant tore up all the railroad from Oxford north to Holly 240 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. Springs or beyond. There were no more serious operations in this part of the State, excepting Grierson's raid (p. 236), until the latter part of 1864; for Grant's advance upon Vicksburg, which immedi- ately ensued, was made by way of the Mississippi, to landings above and below that city, where he joined his forces in a cordon about it and entered upon a siege which ended in its surrender on July 4th. The Illinois Central Line below Oxford trends slightly westward, through a hilly, fertile, and beautiful region, past Coffeeville to Grenada, on the high banks of the Yalabusha River. Grenada (pop., 25,000, Chamberlin, $2; Paso House, $2) is an important market town at the intersection of the main line with another line from Memphis (100 m. long), which comes straight south through Her- nando, Senatobia, Sardis, etc., carrying sleeping-cars between Kansas City and New Orleans, via Memphis and Grenada. The next station of note southward is Winona, where the Southern Ry. (p. 132) crosses, below which the road soon enters the valley of the Big Black, and descends that river to Durant, where a branch leads west to the Yazoo Valley, at Tchula. Just below Durant the branch from Aberdeen, in the eastern part of the State (p. 237), comes in via Starkville, Chester, and Kosciusko. The Big Black is Grossed and left behind at Way's Bluff, and the road turns south- ward through Canton to the capital of the State. Jackson (pop., 7,000; Edwards, $3; Lawrence, $2.50; Spengler, I2.50) w^as the abode of the aristocracy of this planter's common- wealth before the Civil War, and one of the most enthusiastic supporters of the secession idea. It never dreamed that it would suffer as it was compelled to. When Grant landed his armies above and below Vicksburg, and had nearly driven Pemberton's army to take refuge behind their entrenchments, he found himself compelled to deal with a new enemy. Joseph E. Johnston had brought a large Confederate army to the relief of the city, and was at Jackson ready to attack Grant in the rear. Facing both ways, the Union commander made haste to begin the contest. He won the preliminary battles west of the city, and pushing on (May 13, 1863), fought a severe engagement in the outskirts of the city, ending in the route of the Confederates. The Union troops then entered the city, destroyed factories of clothing and arms, took pos- session of abandoned stores, and then left it to return to the attack upon Vicksburg. That city was invested, and in a few weeks reduced to helplessness and surrender. Grant then took his army ALABAMA AND THE GULF GO A ST. 241 north, but left Sherman with a large force to pursue Johnston, who still menaced him, having taken possession of Jackson and fortified it a second time. Cannonading, assaults, and sorties went on, with frightful loss of life, until July 17th (1863), when the Confederates withdrew across Pearl River. Says Lossing: " Sherman did not pursue far, his object being to drive Johnston awa}^ and make Vicksburg secure. For this purpose he broke up the railways for many miles, and destroyed everything in Jackson that might be useful to the Confederates, and the soldiers shame- fully sacked and plundered the city. ... It was one of the most shameful exhibitions of barbarism of which the Union soldiers were occasionally guilty, and soiled with an indelible stain the character of the National army." Before the war, Jackson was one of the most beautiful of Southern cities. It has not had time to recover yet, but has some fine streets and residences. The Governor s Mansion is a stately home, and the pride of the town. The State House is dilapidated. Within recent years there has begun here the manufacture of cotton goods on a large scale,. the Wesson factory, in particular, being one of the foremost in the whole country. From Jackson South this line takes a straight southerly course, soon leaving the banks of Pearl River for the firmer ridgelands that part the rivulets flowing into the Pearl from those coursing v/est- ward into the tributaries of the Mississippi. Hazlehurst, Brook- haven, and Magnolia are the only stations of any importance. Louisiana is entered at Osyka, and Tangipahoa County is traversed to Lake Ponchartrain. The road then skirts its southern shores and enters New Orleans ' ' over one of the worst prairies treniblatites that ever defied an engineer," and passes through the dreariest swamp possible, along the track of the old Bonnet Cave crevasse, to the station at the corner of Clio and Magnolia streets, about a mile and three-quarters from the center of the city, on Canal Street. The distance from Chicago to New Orleans by this line, is 912 miles; from St. Louis, 69S miles; from Memphis, 394 miles. Koute 31.— Yazoo Route. This is the route of the Yazoo & Mississippi Valley Rd. from Memphis to New Orleans, along the eastern bank of the Mississippi River. It runs sleeping-cars between Memphis and New Orleans, and Vicksburg and New Orleans. Its branches diverge so as to 242 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. obtain the business of all the immense cotton -producing region between the Yazoo and Mississippi rivers, and furnish railway communications to every important town and river landing. At Huntington it connects by ferry with the Arkansas system of railroads, converging at Arkansas City, and at Greenville with the Southern Railway west to Columbus, Birmingham, and Atlanta. The various branches converge at Rolling Fork, in Sharkey County, into a single line southward to Vicksburg, and there connect with the through line east, via Jackson, Meridian, Montgomery, etc. South of Vicksburg the road passes over the hard fought fields (1863) along the Big Black River and about Port Gibson, crosses at Harriston, a line from Jackson and Natchez (28 m. southwest), and then proceeds straight south inland to Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana. Between here and New Orleans are vast sugar plantations, and the most typical scenery of the lower river country, this being an old, rich, and densely-populated plantation-region, having few settlements large enough to be called towns. The station in New Orleans is at the corner of Poydras and Magnolia streets. The distance from Memphis to New Orleans is 455 miles. Route 32.— Kansas City and Memphis to Florida. This is the sleeping-car route from Kansas City to Florida (Jack- sonville and Tampa), via Memphis, Birmingham, Montgomery, and the Plant System, which has been elsewhere described in detail as its parts came under notice. INDEX. I'AGE A DAIRSVILLE 117 -^^ Aiken 47 Alabama River, The 230 Albany, Fla 51 Altamonte Springs 188 Amelia Island 28, 29, 30 Americus 21 Anniston 129 Appomattox 78 Archer 212 Ashley Hill... 10 _ Ashville 62 Astor z 147 Atlanta 119-121 Atlanta Campaign, Sherman's.. 115-1 19 Augusta 47» 48 175. BARTOW Basic City Battery Park Hotel Bay Biscayne Bay St. Louis.. Beaufort, N. C Beaufort, S. C Beauvoir, Jefferson Davis' Estate Belair, Fla Berea Berry ville , Big Levees, The Big Shanty Biloxi 234 Biltmore Birmingham 222 Bloody Marsh . . Blount .Springs Blowing Rock Springs Blue Springs Bolivar Booneville Bowden Lithia Springs Bristol Brunsw^ick Buena Vista Buffalo Lithia Springs Buncombe County, N. C. Burr, Aaron Butler's Island 192 74 63 184 236 38 50 235 150 91 71 75 117 235 63 223 25 229 61 149 238 236 126 80 23 76 58 62 26 26 pALOOSAHATCHEE ^ Camden.. Canaveral, Cape Cannon's Point 26 RIVER.. 194 46 Carnegie, Andrew 28 Cartersville u^ Cascade (Pylant) Springs 94 Castle Pinckney 10 Catawba River 60 Catoosa Springs "''" n^ Cedar Keys, Fla 211, 212, 213 Chamberlain's Hotel 32 Charleston 10-14 Charleston Harbor .8-10 Charlotte 66 Charlotte Harbor 193, 194 Charlottesville 56 Chattahoochee River.. 219 Chattanooga 100- 103 Chattanooga, Campaign of 1863.106-110 Chesapeake & Ohio R. R 32 Chickamauga Park no, m, 112 Chrisfield 37 Citronelle 237 City Gate, St. Augustine 160 City Point, Fla 178 City Point, Va 35 Civil War in the West, Sketch of .86-91 Clay Spring 188 Clearwater Harbor 202 Clyde Steamships, The 7 Columbia 54 Columbus 237 Coquina Quarries, The _ 162 Corinth, Miss. 97, 98 Couper Place 26 Cowpens ..67, 68, 6q Crab-Tree Falls 75 Crescent City, Fla.. 146 Cripple Creek 79. Cross Keys 73 Culpeper Court House 56 Cumberland Church 77 Cumberland Gap 80 Cumberland Island 27 Cumberland River, The... 228 Currituck Sound 38 a TRADE'S MONUMENT" .... 157 -^^ " Dade, State of " 221 Dahlonega 70 Dalton 114-116 Danville, Ky 93 Danville, Va 58 Darien 23 Daytona 174 (243) 344 INDEX. PAGE Decatur 99 De Land 147, 148 De Soto, Hernandez ... 196 De Soto County 193 Dismal Swamp 77 Drake, Francis 157, 168 Dungeness 27, 28 Dunmore, Lord 34 Dunnellon 210 Durham 42 EAST Coast of Florida 152 " Eastern Shore," Va. 37 Eastman 127, 128 Eau Gallic 179, 180 Econlockhatchie River 187 Elizabethto wn 81 Enterprise 150 Eustis 207 Everglades, The... 185, 186, 192, 195, 206 -pARMVILLE -L Fayette ville Fernandina Florence, Ala. Florence, S. C Florida, Atlantic Coast of 172, Florida, South 185- Florida Keys, The 199, Fort Brooke Fort Clinch Fort Fisher Fort Johnston Fort Lafayette - . . Fort Marion 157- Fort Meade Fort Monroe Fort Moultrie . I Fort Myers Fort Payne Fort Pierce - Fort Sumter Frederica 25, Front Royal ... 72 p AINESVILLE, Ga 70 ^ Gainesville, Fla 211, 212 Glen Alpine Springs 61 Goldsboro 44 Grand Junction 238 Green Cove Springs 142 Greene, Gen. Nathaniel 19, 27, 68 Greensboro 58 Greenville 82 " Greenway Court " 71 Grenada 240 Grottoes (Weyer's Caves)... 73, 74 Grove City 195 HAGERSTOWN Halifax River Hampton Hampton Roads... Harper's Ferry Healing Springs... 70 174 32 33 71 237 PAGE Hendersonville 64 Hermitage, The, Jackson's Home. 228 Hickory 60 Hillsboro River 177 Hillsborough Bay 196, 198 Holly Springs 239 Homosassa 210 Hot Springs, N. C 65, 66 Huntsville 99 Hutchinson's Island 182 Hygeia Hotel, The 32 TNDIANHEAD 36 J- Indian River 177, 178 Indian River Inlet 180 Indian Springs 127 Interlachen 210 216 241 238 -13Q 9 35 26 92 TACKSON, ANDREW 170 J Jackson, Miss 240 Jackson, Tenn. Jacksonville , 133 James Island Jamestown, Site of Jekyll Island Jellico Jonesboro, Ga. Jonesboro, Tenn Jupiter Inlet and River 178 T^EMBLE,FANNY 26 J^ Kennesaw 114, 118 Key West 199,, 200 Kingston 85 Kissimmee 190, 191 Knoxville 83, 84 T AKE APOPKA 188 ^ Lake Butler 202 Lake City. 214 Lake District, The, of Florida.. 206, 207 Lake George, Fla 147 Lake Helen 149 Lakeland 192 Lake Maitland 189 Lake Miccosukie 216 Lake Monroe 150 Lake Okeechobee 190, 194 Lake Santa Fe 211 Lake Weir 208 Lake Worth 182, 183 "• Land of the Sky," Western N.C..59, 62 Lee, Gen. C. H. (Light Horse Harry) 28 Lee, Gen. R. E., Statue of... 20 Leesburg 207 Lee's (Gen. R. E.) Mausoleum 75 Lemon Bay 195 Lenoir 61 Lexington, Ky 92 l^exington, Va 74, 75 Liberty 78 Live Oak 215 Lookout Inn 105 Lookout Mountain 103, 104, 108-110 INDEX. 245 PAGE Loudon - - - 85 Luray and its Caverns 72, 73 Lynchburg 57 MCGREGOR (the filibuster)* 29 McPherson Barracks 121 Macon 122, 123 Madison County, Fla _ 216 Magnolia Gardens 10 Magnolia Springs 141 Mammoth Cave, The 225 Manassas 55 Manatee River - 198 Marietta 114 Massanutten Mountain 72 Matanzas Inlet. 167 Mayport 16 Medon _ 238 "Mecklenburg Declaration," The. 67 Melbourne 180 Mellonville, Fla 150 Memphis 96 Menendez de Aviles, Pedro. 162, 166, 167 Meridian . 223, 224, 237 Merritt. 178 Miami, Fla 184 Miami River 185 Middleton Place 15 Milledgeville 49 Minorcan Immigration, The 176 Missionary Ridge no, m Mississippi City 235 Mobile 231-234 Monteagle ...» 95 Montgomery -229, 230 Monticello, Fla.. 216 Monticello, Va 56 Morganton.. 61 Morris Island 8 Morristown 82 Mosquito Inlet 175 Mount Airy .59, 69 Mount Mitchell •... 59, 61 Mount Pleasant 10 Mount Vernon 36 Murfreesboro, Battle of. 94 Murphy 65 Muscle Shoals 99 NAPLES 195 Narrows, The, Fla 180 Nashville — ... 225 Nashville, Battle of 225-228 Natural Bridge, Fla 218 Natural Bridge, The 76, 77 New Berne.. 38 New Orleans. 224 Newport , 21J Newport News 32 New Smyrna 174, 175 Norfolk 33 Norfolk Navy Yard 34 AK HILL : 177 Ocala 208, 209 O PAGE Ocean Springs 234 Ocean View ( Norfolk) 33 Ocklawaha River 145 Ocmulgee River 127 Oglethorpe, Governor .18, 25-27, 48, 157 Old Point Comfort 32 Olustee 213, 214 Orangeburg 47 Orange Lake 210 Orange Park 141 Orlando 189, 190 Ormond 173, 174 Oxford 239, 240 PABLO BEACH 139 -L Paint Rock 66 Palatka - - - 143, 144 Palm Beach 183 Palmetto Monument 54 Paolo 187 Peace River.. 193 Peaksof Otter.... 78 Pensacola 52, 53 Petersburg 43, 44 Phosphates of Florida 208, 209 Piedmont Chautauqua, The 126 Piedmont Springs. 61 Pineapple Region, The 181, 194 " Pine Barrens " of North Carolina 41 . Pine Forest Inn 14 Pinellas Peninsula 201, 202 Plaza, The, St. Augustine. 154, 155 Point Lookout 105 Ponce 175 Ponce de Leon Hotel 163, 164 Ponce de Leon, Juan 165 Port Orange 174 Port Republic 73 Port Royal 50 Portsmouth 34 Port Tampa 198 Pulaski 79 Pulaski, Count 18, 20 Punta Gorda 193 Punta Rassa 194 QUINCY 218, 219 RALEIGH, N. C. 40, 41 Raleigh, Sir Walter 39 Resaca 114 Ribault, Jean 162-167 Richmond 43 Roan Mountain "'Cloudland").8o, 81, 82 Roanoke 78 Roanoke Island 39 Rockcastle Springs 92 Rockledge 178, 179 Rollins College 189 Rome 126 OT. ANASTASIA ISLAND. .161, 162 ^ St. Augustine 153-171 St. James City 194 20 246 INDEX. 139-151 ... 218 - 41 - 201 .. 24 •- 79 59' 60 186, 187 198, 199 -_l8-2I PAGE St. JohnsRiver - St. Mark's St. Mark's River St. Mary's College St. Petersburg, Fla St. Simon's Mills Salem _ Salisbury. Saltville Sandy Hook Sanf ord 1 50 Sarasota Bay Savannah Savannah River 17, 18 Sea Islands, History and Antiqui- ties of 24, 25 Selma.. 131, 132 Seminole War, The 203-206 Sergeant Jasper, Monument to 20 Sewanee 95 Sharon Alum Springs 80 Shaw University 41 Sheffield 99 Shenandoah River 72 Shenandoah Valley, The 70, 71, 72 "Sheridan's Ride " 72 Sherman, W. T., Lieut 181 Sherman's March to the Sea 124, 125 Sherman's (Gen.; Operations in North Carolina -42, 43 Shiloh, Battle of_... 97 Silver Spring Run 145, 146 Southern Pines (village) 41 South Jacksonville.- 152 Spartanburg 69 Sport Along Shore South of Charleston 28 Starkville 237 Staunton 74 Steamship Lines: Bay Line 35 Brunswick & Florida Steamboat Co. 26 Cromwell Line 30 Indian River Line 177 Mallor y 22 Mallory Line 201 Merchants' & Miners' Lines 30 Mobile Lines.. 232 Morgan Line 201 Norfolk & Washington Line 36 Ocean Steamship Co 17 Old Dominion Line ---31, 35 Virginia Navigation Co 40 York River Line 58 Strohecker Barium Springs 60 Suffolk 77 PAGE Sullivan's Island 8 Suminerville 14 Summerville Heights 48 Suwannee River 215, 216 q^ALLADEGA 131 -•- Tallahassee 216, 217 Tallapoosa Springs 129 Tallulah Falls 69 Tampa 196-198 Tampa Bay 196 Tarpon Springs 202 TatQ|Springs 82 SfSXK Tavares 207 Taylor County, Fla 216 Thomasville 51, 52 Titusville 177 Toccoa Falls 69 Tomoka River 174 "Truck" Garden District of North Carolina 39 Tryon 64 Tupelo 236 Turtle Mound 177 Tuscaloosa. 223 Tuscumbia 98 UNIVERSITY of Tennessee.... 83 University of Virgmia 56, 57 ^ VIRGINIA BEACH.... V Volusia County, Fla. WAKULLA SPRING 217 Warm Springs 127 Warwick Hotel, The 33 Washington and Lee College "75 W auhatchie 220, 221 Waycross 51 Waynesboro 74 Waynesville 65 Wekiva Blue Spring 209 Wesleyan Female College 123 West Jupiter 182 Westpoint, Va. 35 White Sulphur Spring, Fla 214, 215 White Sulphur Springs, W. Va 74 Whitney, Eli 28 Wilmington 45 Winston ._ 59 Winter Park 189 Wyeth City 222 Wytheville 79 YAZOO Region 241, 242 Yeaman's Hall 15 Yorktown 35 ^ The Swannanoa ASHEVILLE, N. C, A strictly good, up-to-date hotel, at moderate rates. Constructed of brick, and built with a view to solid com- fort. The verandas and sun-parlors afford magnificent views of the surrounding mountain ranges. LOCATION is central, on the main street. Electric Cars pass the door RATES, $2.00, $2.50, and $3.00 per day. For weekly rates, address R. R. RAWLS, Owner and Manager. EVERETT HOUSE Fourth avenue and Seventeenth Street, ST Pa?."""" NEW YORK. An established hotel under new manasrement. Thoroughly renovated, perfect sanitation And all modern imprOYements. Visitors to New York will find "The Everett" in the very heart of the popular shopping district, conve- nient to places of amusement, and readily accessible from all parts of the city. EUROPEAN PLAN. WM. M. BATES. B. L. M. BATES. s EASON 1895-96. -^}C3{H- OPENED NOVEMBER 28, 1895. ps;3 l_ # V.' ■^';-^- The Equal if not the Superior of any Hotel in Jacksonville. Location unsurpassed, being on the highest ground in Jacksonville, opposite the beautiful St. James Park. Arrangements for comfort of guests, complete, including electric bells, electric lights, steam heat in halls and public rooms, bath rooms en S7izle, elevator, over 700 feet of veranda _/AI\ 5T5- COnPLETED IN I8SS5. /lObERN IMPROVEMENT?. BAT/i;? ETCO/i EVER/ FL00f\.CA5 ^ELECTRIC _ ^^ LICHT^.PA^JEMCER ELEVATOR ARTISTICALLY &ELEGANTLY FURNISHED HOTEL GENEVAis an elegant new building, constructed of iron, marble, and brick, and is practically fire-proof. It has all modern improvements; elevator, baths, etc., on each floor; electric lights and gas; electric bells (with return calls). It is centrally located, yet out of the noise. Only one block from the electric car lines, connecting with all parts of the city; two blocks from the new government building. It is furnished superbly— superior to any hotel in Jacksonville. All the mattresses are genuine hair on double springs, and a night's sleep in Hotel Geneva is a luxury appreciated by it s patrons. The heating arrange- ment is excellent, giving a uniform dry heat in all corridors and halls. Plumbing perfect. Its cuisine is all that can be desired. The Sharp Family, who have leased it for several years, are practical hotel people, personally superintending every department, and they invariably please. The Geneva porter and bus meet all trains. Hotel Rates:— Per day, from $-10US SUI^I^ER RESORTS BLUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE, BUENA VISTA SPRING HOTEL, and MONTEREY SPRINGS HOTEL are located directly on the main line of the WESTERN MARYLAND RAILROAD. SHORT AND DIRECT LINE TO Gettysburg Battlefield Write for our descriptive publications, '■'■JaiintsC' *' Gettysburg in War a^id Peace^'" '■' Sites for Homes," a.n6. Summer Boarding Pamphlet. {Mentioti this Guide.) Address B. H. GRISWOLD, GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT. BALTIMORE, MD. ROYAL BLUE LINE BETWEEN New York Philadelphia Baltimore «"" Washington VIA Baltimore Sl Ohio r. r. Fastest, Finest, and Safest Trains in the World The trains are vestibuled from end to end and protected by Pullman's improved Anti-Telescoping Device, All the cars in all the trains are HEATED BY STEA^ and LIGHTED BY PINTSCH GAS. THROUGH Sleeping Cars NEW YORK TO NEW ORLEANS, rrrr CHATTANOOGA, MEMPHIS, AND BIRMINGHAM Complete Dining Car Service.^; DIRECT CONNECTION TO ALL POINTS SOUTH VIA WASHINGTON. R. B. CAMPBELL, Gen'l Manager. CHAS. 0. SCULL, Gen'l Pass'r Agt. OPPOSITETTHE TBEASURVl ifiliEiB-IACKAERiSM/TH E ,WH I TLElkiO US E. The Hotel par excellence of the National Capital. CABLE. ELECTRIC, AND HORSE CARS PASS THE DOORS TO ALL PARTS OF THE CITY. The most centrally located of any hotel in the city. AMERICAN PLAN $3 per Day and upwards STAPLES & De Witt, PROPRIETORS. JAMES L. NORRIS. Counselor in Patent Causes Solicitor of American and Foreign Patents PATENTS FOR INVENTIONS IN ACTIVE PRACTICE TWENTY-FIVE YEARS Corner F and Fifth Streets, Washington, D. C. NORRIS- NEW OFFICE BUILDING, ERECTED IN 1880. ESTABLISHED 1869. FULL INFORMATION as to cost and requirements in securing letters patent on inventions, caveats, trade-marks, etc., SENT FREE in pamphlet form on request, said pamphlet also naming, as references, some of my clients in every State, Letters Patent procured in the United States and foreign countries; trade-mark, label, caveat, and copyright protection secured. Searches made and opinions given as to the validity and infringe- ment of Letters Patent. SPECIAL REFERENCES. National Bank of Washington, Washington, D. C. National Bank of the Republic, Washington, D. C. Central National Bank, Washington, D. C. Riggs & Co., Bankers, Washington, D. C. DanM B. Clarke, Pres. Franklin Ins. Co., Washington, D. C. Clyde Steamship Co BETWEEN ™™^ NEW YORK AND ^ WILMINGTON, GEORGETOWN, CHARLESTON. PHILADELPHIA AND NEW YORK, NORFOLK, RICHMOND, ALEXANDRIA, WASHINGTON, jHHIlim^^ JACKSONVILLE. SANFORD AND INTERMEDIATE POINTS, HAYTI AND SANTO DOMINGO. "NEW YORK, GftftRLESTON ftND FLORlDft LINE>§," For CHARLESTON, S. C, the South, and Southwest. For JACKSONVILLE, Fla., and all Florida Points. Appointed sailing days from Pier 29, East River, N. Y., MONDAYS, WEDNESDAYS, AND FKIDAY8 AT 8.00 P. M. THE ONLY LINE BETWEEN New York and Jacksonville, Fla. Without change. UNSURPASSED PASSENGER ACCOMMODATIONS AND CUISINE, The Fleet is composed of the following elegant steamers: COMANCHE (new), ALGONQUIN, IROqUOIS, SEMINOLE, CHEROKEE, YEMASSEE. Through Tickets, Rates, and Bills of Lading for all points South and Southwest, via Charleston, and all Florida points, via Jacksonville. "CLYDE'S ST. JOHN'S RIVER LINE." (De Bary Ijine ) JACKSONVILLE, PALATKA, ENTERPRISE, AND SANFORD, FLA., And Intermediate Ijandings, Steamers: CITY OF JACKSONVILLE, FRED'K DE BARY, EVERGLADE, WELAKA. Sailing from Jacksonville dally, except Saturday, at 3.30 p.m., making close connection with all railroads at PALATKA, ASTOE, and SANFORD. Through Tickets and Bills of Lading at Lowest Rates to all interior points in Florida. Write the " Clyde Line" for one of their 70-page pamphlets, " Facts about Florida." It is replete with valuable Information for the Tourist, Merchant, or Invalid. For further information apply to M. H. CliYDE, A. T. M. A. J. COIiE, G. P. A. THEO. Q. EGER, T. M. WWI. p. CLYDE & CO., General Agents, 6 Bowlinjf Green, New York. 12 South Delaware Ave., Philadelphia. (0 5 s o ^Pas ui 3 jX '^ !zi ,-, •- S =3 '^ ^ . o ^ 5 o