/ ^^ "'i'^i^ ,*^ ^*^ ,^^ ;^1C/^^ ^-,,^* /sm;: ^^.A S^^u 4 o .^. 4. GREAT ]SrOVELS THAT SUIT ALL TASTES THE MOST TALKED ABOUT BOOK SINCE igoi BLENNERHASSETT AN ABSORBING ROMANCE OF AARON BURR By Charles Felton Pidgin ILLUSTRATED GOLD TOP PRICE $i.^o "BEST NEIV ENGLAND STORY El^ER IVRITTEN" QUINCY ADAMS SAWYER By Charles Felton Pidgin, author of ''Blennerhassett" ILLUSTRATED GOLD TOP PRICE $i.^o " THE ROMANCE OF A COUNTRY GIRL " HESTER BLAIR A Book to Read, Think About, and Talk About By William Henry Carson ILLUSTRATED GOLD TOP PRICE p.^o '' THERE IS NO SEX IN SIN," ACCORDING TO MISS PETTICOATS A STORY OF AN AMBITION By DWIGHT TiLTON ILLUSTRATED GOLD TOP PRICE p.^G PICTORIAL GUIDE 3 9 ■■ TO BOSTON AND The Country Around With Maps and Plans BOSTON THE G. W. ARMSTRONG DINING ROOM & NEWS CO, 1902 ARY'OF RESS, PIES Received 31 1902 COPVRIQHT ENTRY CLASS (XXXa No. COPY B. , PURE FRUIT JUICE FLAVORS PUT UP IN OUR OWN FACTORY THE B^ST th«t CAN BE'PTRpC'UCED at any price C\ <\ 'cTljteJnaiBfe "bELL' * Js'o.i each piece. MAKERS OF THE. OR.'GINAL OLD FA^H^It^iVPD CHOCOLATES Sold by ail dealers who sell THE BEST ASK FOR BELL'S COPYRIGHT. 1902, BY C. S. HAMMOND & CO., NEW YORK. CONTENTS. TAGr.. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY 7 The Main Facade, 9; The Entrance, 10; Staircase Decorations, by Chavannes, 12; Corridor Decorations, by Chavannes; "Muses Greet- ing the Genius of Enlightenment," 14; Bates Hall, 16; Delivery Room, 21; Edwin A. Abbey's "The Quest of the Holy Grail," 21; Children's Rooms, 26; Ceiling Decorations, by John Elliot, "The Triumph of Time," 27; Lecture Hall, 27; Sargent Hall, 27; Decora- tions by Mr. Sargent, "The Triumph of Religion," 28; Special Libra- ries, 29; Fine Arts Room, 29; Interior Court, 30; Other Libaries, 33. THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLEC- TIONS 34 The Collection of Casts, 35; The Collection of Paintings in Oil and Water-Colors, 37; The Allston Room, 41; Examples of the English and French Schoolf^-XVIIL and XIX. Centuries, 42; Examples of the Work of Mod'errt ■Painfers, 43; The Print Rooms, 43; Other Museums an.^^ 2,7 " " " " Portrait of Washington, by Gilbert Stuart 39 Copley Square 40. 4 1 Museum of Fine Arts — Painting, "Pot of Basil," by John W. Alexander 42 " " " " Painting, "By the Riverside," by Henri Lerolle 43 The Common in Winter 47 Review of Boston School Boys on the Common 49 Ball's Equestrian Statue of Washington, Public Garden 50 Agassiz Bridge, The Fens 52 Entrance to Pinebank. Olmsted Park. 53 Balanced Rock, Franklin Park • 54 The Overlook, " " 55 Old South Meeting-House 65 Old Corner Book Store. • ~ 66 King's Chapel . . 69 Old State House 70 ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Faneuil Hall — Exterior j^) Interior 74 Armory of the Ancient and Honorabic ivrti.'.cry C.m-^any 75 Old Christ Church ^ 78 Copp's Hill Burying Ground 81 Tremont Street, corner Park Street 83 Massachusetts Stale House, Extension and PubLc Grwun^lj 85 " " " Representatives' Chamber 87 Exterior 88. 89 Suffolk County Court House — Exterior 91 "Old Ironsides" — Charlestown Navy Yard 95 Bunker Hill Monument 97 Lake Hibiscus. Forest Hills Cemetery 99 Harvard College — Class of 1877 Gate 104 Johnston Gate 107 Phillips Brooks II, u J 108 " " Architecture Building 109 Common and Soldiers' Monument, Cambridge 11 1 Entrance to Mount Auburn Cemetery 114 Shipping at T Wharf 118 A Glimpse of Boston Harbjr 119 Revere Beach 120, 121 Boston Light 122 Hull, from Paddock's Landing 123 Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth 125 Cole's Blacksmith Shop. Plymouth 126 William Harlow House. Plymouth 127 The Common. Lexington 137 Old North Bridge, Concord 141 The Wayside Inn, Sudbury 143 The Brookline Boulevard 147 Norumbega Tower 149 Echo Bridge, Newton Upper Falls 150 A Glimpse of the Neponset River 153 Homes of the Presidents Adams 155 North Union Iitation 158 South Terminal Station 161 Boston City Hospital Relief Station 163 Hotel Touraine 165 Colonial Theatre, Interior 169 Symphony Hall — Exterior 171 Interior 172 Horticultural Hall 175 Masonic 1 emple — Exterio- 177 Gothic Hall 178 Corinthian Hall 179 S The most delicious and healtlifui article of food that can 5 be carried by travelers, bicyclists, golfers, and students I Walter Baker & Co.'s Vanilla Chocolate Cropettes and Tablets TRADE MARK For sale at the Dining- rooms and News-stands of the Armstrong Compan}-. WalterBaker&Co-'s COCOA AND CHOCOLATE for Drinking and Cooking are for sale by grocers ever}'- where and form the standard for purity and excellence. Thirty-Eight Highest Awards in Europe and America. WALTER BAKER & CO. Ltd. Established 1780 DORCHESTER, MASS. • GROCERi) EVCftYWMERE ..Joreword... D O busy people, dwelling within her gates, who have kept no tally of the city's gains, these pages may prove helpful and instructive. They are not exhaustive, but they aim to give as clearly and briefly as possible information concern- ing places and objects of interest, and the easiest way of reaching the same. Do not scorn the index, and when you wish to spend a day in making the acquaintance of some spot in your native town see if it does not give you a clew which will make the fulfillment of your desire complete Traveler, may this little book help you to see and to enjoy that which has been preserved of Old Boston, which belongs by right of historic interest to every American, and also the many treasures which the great city, through the genius of her sons and daughters, has been acquiring as the centuries have slipped away. Come you from far or near, be your condition what it may — only so that you have a desire to see and to learn — Boston has a message for you. May these pages help you to understand that message :-t.4 CHOCOLATE BOM BONS " Name on Every Piece." OVED EIGHT MILLION PACKAGES SOLD ANNUALLY Sold on trains and at all Confectionery Stands controlled by The G. W Armstrong: Dining: Room and News Company. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 'The Crowning Possession of Boston.' As the gilded dome of the State House, towering above the city on the hill where blazed the beacon of old, seems to pro- claim the patriotism and civic pride which have made Massa- chusetts a torch-bearer in the vanguard of the States, so the Boston Public Library, "Built by the People and Dedicated to the Advancement of Learning," is a fitting memorial of those lofty spirits who, at every stage of her development, have spoken for education as the best safeguard of a people. This Library, founded in 1852, was the pioneer in the United States of free libraries supported by general taxation. Next to the Congressional Library in Washington, it is the largest and most important collection of books in America, and it is fittingly housed in one of the most beautiful library structures in the world. This noble building stands at the head of Copley Square. The most prominent object in this interesting locality, it has as near neighbors Trinity Church, the masterpiece of the late H. H. Richardson; the IMuseum of Fine Arts, and the new Old South Church, successor to the Old South Meeting-House in Wash- ington Street. The State, by giving part of the land which forms its site, and many public-spirited citizens, by contributions and bequests, have united with the city in the effort to make this library representative of all that is worthiest in American institutions. The free public library system is known in count- less cities and towns; travelling libraries are carrying instruction and entertainment to many a lonely farm-house or humble work- shop; slowly, but surely, an appreciation for the best in art and 8 GUIDE TO BOSTON. literature is permeating tke masses; and in all this work for the bettering of humanity, Boston has been a pathfinder and an inspiring power. In this building and its decorations she has done much toward arousing and fostering a love for true art, and this art influence is destined to be far-reaching and beneficent. The architect of this building was INIr. Charles F. McKim, of the New York firm of McKim, Mead & White. The corner-stone was laid Nov. 28, 1888. The building was completed and thrown open to the public for use in March, 1895. The total cost of the building, including all decorations contracted for, was $2,368,000. caa^ft CO. CENTRAL LIBRARY. GROUND FLOOR. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 9 The Library is two hundred and twenty-five feet long, two hun- dred and twenty-seven feet deep. Its height from the sidewalk to the top of the cornice is seventy feet. The material used is Milford granite. In color this granite is a grayish white, which, in some lights, becomes faintly tinged with pink. The Library is in the Italian Rennaissance style of architecture, is quadrangular in shape and surrounds an inner court. The chief characteristics of the building are its simplicity and the accentuation of hori- zontal lines of composition. The main facade, looking east over Copley Square, consists of ISSUE DEPARTMENT LOBBY MAIN STAIRCASE HALL r^dte; •-—iODODdDDDOdODD LI „ ^ ^ ^ _ _ ^ATES HALL C AT A LOG U 'wtuh IDDDDDD^DDODDOia Do 91 CENTRAL LIBRARY, SECOND FLOOR. 10 GUIDE TO BOSTON. a heavily built lower story supporting an arcaded second story. Above the arcade is a narrow frieze, which on each facade of the building bears an inscription. On the Dartmouth Street side: "The Public Library of the City of Boston, Built by the People and Dedicated to the Advancement of Learning, A. D. MDCCCLXXXVIIL" On the Boylston Street side: "The Com- monwealth Requires the Education of the People as the Safe- guard of Order and Liberty." And on Blagden Street: ^MDCCCLIL Founded Through the :\Iunificence and Public Spirit of Citizens." Above the frieze is a noble cornice, fitly crowning the facade. This cornice is considered one of the triumphs of American architecture. The whole building rests upon a granite plat- form which gives it a dignified elevation above Copley Square. This platform extends entirely round the three facades of the building. The entrance on Copley Square is by three arched doorways. Each arch is closed with heavy wrought-iron gates. Immedi- ately above is the inscription. "Free to All." Above the main entrance, under the three central windows, are carved medallions bearing the seals of the Library, the City, and the Common- wealth. The triple-arched entrance leads into the main vesti- bule, and thence into the entrance hall. The floor, walls, and vaulted ceiling of the vestibule are of pink Knoxville marble, the floor inlaid with brown Knoxville and Levanto marbles. The doorways to the entrance hall are copied from the Temple of Erectheus on the Akropolis at Athens. In a niche on the left is a bronze statue by 'Sir. ]\IacMonies, of Sir Harry V^ane. gov- ernor of Massachusetts in 1636-37. The low, broad entrance hall is divided into aisles by heavy piers of Iowa sandstone. Corridors running from it to the right and left lead to the news- paper room., the catalogue room, and to the interior court. The ceiling is vaulted with domes in the side bays. In the penetra- tions of the arches, between the piers, in the main aisle, are the names of six eminent Bostonians — Adams, Emerson, Franklin, Hawthorne, Longfellow, Pierce. In the side domes are the names of twenty-four more illustrious citizens, arranged in groups of four. The theologians, Channing, Eliot, Mather and THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 11 Parker; the reformers, Garrison, Mann, Phillips and Sumner; the artists, Allston, Bulfinch, Copley and Stuart; the historians, Bancroft, Motley, Parkman and Prescott; the scientists, Agas- siz, Bowditch, Gray and Rumford; the jurists, Choate, Shaw, Story and Webster. The floor is of Georgia marble inlaid with brass intagsia representing the signs of the zodiac. Near the stairs are the names of men prominently connected with the founding and early history of the Library: Bates, Bigelow, Everett, Jewett, Quincy, Ticknor, Vattemare and Winthrop. Off the left corridor are the catalogue room, offices, a coat room, and next to this an elevator. Off the right corridor are toilet rooms for men and women, a public telephone station, and a public stenographer's office. From this corridor also opens the news- paper reading room. The Library takes more than three hun- dred newspapers, of which over eighty are foreign papers, coming from the principal cities of the world. These papers are conveniently ar- ranged on racks and tables, and may be freely consulted by visitors. Opening from the newspaper room are the two periodical rooms. The Library subscribes to about fifteen hun- d r e d periodicals, coming from all parts of the world. Like the newspapers, the periodicals may be BRONZE STATUE OF SIR HARRY VANE. ,, J , „„ By MacMonnies. consulted by any one. Vestibule, Entrance Hall, Boston Public Library. 12 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Directly opposite the main entrance rises the grand staircase, the sides of yellow, richly variegated Sienna marble, and the steps of an ivory-gray French marble. Half way up the staircase is a wide landing, guarded on each side by couchant lions — on large granite pedestals. These lions — the work of Mr. Louis St. Gaudens — were the gifts of the Second and Twentieth Mass- achusetts Volunteer Infantry, in memory of their comrades who fell in the Civil War. At the landing double oak doors open upon a balcony which overlooks the interior court. From the landing the staircase separates to the right and left and ascends to the staircase corridor. Let us pause to notice the staircase decorations. The panels that encircle the walls of the staircase are oc- cupied by paintings by the late Puvis de Chavannes, one of the most distinguished of modern French painters. These pictures may be most advantageously studied from the staircase corridor. From this point, as one looks toward the window over the staircase landing, the two most striking panels of the series are seen, the one on the left depicting Chemistry, that on the right Physics. In the former panel mineral chemistry is typified by an experiment which is going on in a retort, while the processes of organic and vegetable chemistry are shown by the decaying body of a beast, which, in returning to the earth from which it came, fertilizes the soil and luxuriant flowers are springing up around it. In the rocky background of the picture a fairy stands with uplifted wand, as if to direct the spirits who attend to the experiment going on in the retort. Physics was happily explained by the artist in the following words: "What is, for example, the most important element in physics? In Edison's country there can be but one reply — electricity. And what is the most striking manner in which electricity is used? For the transmission of news by telegraph. News is of two kinds, good and bad, and the incarnation of these two kinds in two different personages at once suggested itself. I aimed, above all, to express my idea simply." It needs no interpreter to point out which of the figures is the type of good news. Now^ considering the panels on the side walls of the staircase, we shall begin with the one on the left, Philosophy. The scene is ONE OF THE PERIODICAL ROOMS. 14 GUIDE TO BOSTON. a garden in Athens; Plato stands in the foreground discoursing with one of his disciples, while others are seen in the distance engaged in conversation or absorbed in study. In the back- ground rises the Akropolis, crowned by the Parthenon. In Astronomy are seen types of those primitive observers of celestial bodies, the Shepherds of Chaldea. Standing upon a rocky ledge, their vigil shared by a woman who looks out from a tent of crude construction, two scantily clad men arc absorbed in contempla- tion of the countless stars in "Heaven's blue vault." In the third panel, that of History, are the ruins of a temple, where, in former ages, men had worshipped their gods. The Doric column indi- cates a former colonnade, now crumbled by time. History, with laurelled brow, stands upon the broken steps which once led to the shrine, and seems to implore the Past to reveal its secrets. By her side a naked youth bears the book and torch of science. Following the wall around the panels on the opposite side we find Pastoral Poetry symbolized in the figure of A^irgil. He stands by a clump of slender trees, in a landscape of quiet beauty. In the distance two shepherds are reveling in the delights of nature. In Dramatic Poetry Aeschylus appears in the foreground sitting upon a cliff overlooking the sea, considering his tragedy of "Prometheus Bound." In the background the artist has sketched a scene from the play. Prometheus, condemned by the gods to ages of torture for stealing the divine fire and placing it in maia's possession, lies bound upon a rock which rises abruptly from the sea. His naked body is exposed to the attacks of the vulture which hovers above. Rising from the water and floating about him in the air the Oceanides seek to charm and soothe him by their songs. The last panel. Epic Poetry, represents Homer as the wandering minstrel of the heroic age. He is seated on a stone by the roadside, his lyre lying on the ground. The two figures standing beside him personify the Iliad and Odyssey. The former wears a helmet and carries a spear, in token of the continual warfare which is her theme. The latter has an oar for her adventurous career. The corridor decorations, also by Puvis de Chavannes, repre- sent the Muses Greeting the Genius of Enlightenment. The wall is di- vided into five high-arched panels. The lower part of the central ■S' C n o 16 GUIDE TO BOSTON. panel is interrupted by the door into Bates Hall. Here the artist skilfully adapted his design to the formal conditions. Tn explaining his difficulties in an article in Harper's Weekly, he said: "I could only unite my five arched panels in one single composition by joining them at the top, the middle space being much shorter than the others; and as the stone wall is cut into regular festoons, I was obliged to paint skies in these arched spaces. So I determined to join them immediately under the arch by a straight line indicating the sea horizon, and to place the Genius in the centre arch, while the Muses would quit the earth and soar toward him at the sound of his voice." The foreground is the grassy summit of a hill with slender saplings growing along its crest, and beyond it the sea. The Genius of Enlightenment, a naked youth, occupies the centre of the dec- oration above Bates Hall door. He is resting on a cloud and holding rays of light above his head. Rising from the ground the inspiring Muses, five on the left-hand side and four on the right, float in the air, moving gracefully toward the Genius and extending their arms in gestures of welcome. On each side of the door is the statue of a seated female figure, the one on the left representing Study, and the one on the right Contemplation. From the staircase corridor one enters the chief public rooms of the Library. At each end is a small lobby, the one on the right leading to the delivery room, the one on the left to the children's room. This gallery also opens into Bates Hall, the general reading-room. The floor of the corridor and lobbies is of Istrian marble, with patterns of yellow Verona. The vaulted ceiling of the corridor springs on one side from the column.*^ of the arcade, and on the other from "dummy" capitals. Bates Hall, the large public reading-room, is entered from the corridor through a small vestibule. The doorways from this vestibule to the corridor and to the private staircases leading right and left to the rooms of the mezzanine story contain beauti- ful wrought-iron gates, bought for the Library in Venice, where they had originally belonged in some palace. Bates Hall is two hundred and eighteen feet long, forty-two and a half feet wide, and it is fifty feet to the crown of its arches. The ends of the hall are semi-circular, with half-domed ceilings. The barrel- crq W c/> > ^ d :5. H 18 GUIDE TO BOSTON. PHOTO GUI' VRIOH FED, l8>^6, BY FOSTER BROS. CHEMISTRY, Painting by Puvis de Chavannes. vaulted ceiling of the main room is evenly divided by four heavy ribs, which rest upon massive piers of Ohio sandstone. Be- tween are lighter ribs, supported by smaller piers of the same material. Thir- teen arched win- dows, which com- pose the magnificent arcade on Copley Square, let in the east light. At the south end are two more windows. All are filled with grilles of the conventional Roman pattern. A narrow frieze, run- ning clear round the room between the piers, is inscribed in gilt letters with the names' of the men most famous in the history of the world for their achieve- ments in art. litera- ture and science. Bookcases of Eng- lish oak, eight feet high, entirely line the east and west walls and the north THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 19 end of Bates Hall, except where inter- rupted by the sand- stone piers and the mantel s. These bookcases contain about nine thousand books of reference, not exclusively en- cyclopaedias and dic- tionaries, but a col- lection of the most useful and popular works in the vari- ous departments of learning. The en- cyclopaedias and dic- tionaries are found at the north end. Visitors, whether or not citizens of Bos- ton, are permitted to use any of these volumes, although none may be taken from the room. This hall accommodates about three hundred leaders. There are thirty - three heavy tables twelve feet long and three and a half broad. Each table is provided with eight chairs. Each table, as well as each chair, is numbered, and by PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, I097, BY FOSTER EROS. PHYSICS. Painting by Puvis de Chavannes. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 21 adding the number of his tabic and chair to the slip used in taking out books for hall use, the reader may have his vol- umes brought to him directly, without the delay occasioned by waiting for them in the delivery room. The busts ar- ranged about the hall are labelled and need no further ex- planation here. This hall is named in honor of Joshua Bates, a native of ^Massachusetts, but in after years the head of the London banking house of Baring Brothers. In the early days of the library he gave it $50,000 and $50,000 worth of books. Good judges of architecture have pronounced this hall one of the most impressive rooms in the world. The lobby at the south end of the staircase corridor leads to the delivery room. This lobby is decorated in the manner of Pompcian wall paintings, the work of ^Ir. Elmer E. Garnsey. The delivery room is sixty-four feet long by thirty-three wide. The floor is tiled with Istrian and red Verona marble. The light comes from windows looking out upon Blagden Street, and from a glass door leading to the roof of the arcade of the interior court. It is here that books are applied for, given out and re- turned. On account of the richness of its decoration this room is the most sumptuous apartment in the Library. The ceiling is heavily raftered and painted in deep tones of blue and purple; the doorways and mantels are heavy and elaborate, and are con- structed of richly colored marbles; the high wainscot is of light- colored oak. and above it alr)ng the sides of the room are the luminous colors of the paintings in Mr. Edwin A. Abbey's series of pictures. The subject embodied in this cycle is "TJic Quest of the Holy Grail." The legend is a plant of the Celtic imagination, which had its roots in pagan folklore. Growing by accretion like the Homeric C3^cle it was gradually brought into Christian form, though many of the pre-Christian myths still clung to it. It was grafted upon the incidents arising from the patriotic struggle of the Britons against the Saxon invaders. Still later the Saxon conqueror appropriated it, and then it was trans- planted to France and Germany, its growth being affected by each new environment. Out of the accumulation of motives Mr. Abbey has selected those especially related to the San-Grael, 22 GUIDE TO BOSTON. the cup from which the Saviour drank at the Last Supper. Joseph of Arimathea obtained this cup from Pontius Pilate and caught in it the blood that flowed afresh from the sacred side as the body was taken down from the cross. Joseph crossed the seas to Glastonbury, in the West of England, carrying with him the mysterious relic and hiding it in the Castle of the Grail, where it was to remain hidden from mortal eye until a Knight of spotless purity should come in search of it. Then, before its final disappearance it should again bring peace to the earth and become the source of all knowledge and power. Rejecting the Parsifal of the Teutonic version for his stainless Knight, Mr. Abbey has chosen the young British hero, Sir Galahad. In the first of the series an angel appears before the infant Galahad, a descendant of Joseph of Arimathea, who, after the death of his mother, was brought up in a convent of nuns. The angel, float- ing upon widespread wings, bears the Grail, which is visible to the babe, but not to the nun who holds him. The next shows Galahad grown into youth. Clothed in red, he is kneeling in the convent chapel at the close of the all-night vigil which he is re- quired to keep before starting out on his adventures. Launcelot and Bors kneel behind Galahad, fastening his spurs. They are dressed in chain-armor, with low, pointed helmets. The third picture brings Galahad to the Round Table of King Arthur. The vast circular hall, blazing with light, is filled with Knights, each in his appointed seat, and all holding up the hilts of their swords, as if to swear to some great vow. The King, dressed in royal pur- ple and gold, is canopied under a rich baldachin. One seat alone is vacant, the chair of destiny, in which whoever sits must lose himself. Above the table, extending entirely round the hall, is a great ring of angels visible to none in the room except Galahad, who enters, led by a shadowy figure, Joseph of Arimathea. One angel has left the circle a^d lifts the cloth which has covered the Siege Perilous. Before the Siege appear in golden letters the words, "This is the seat of Galahad." The fourth picture reveals the Knights, who, under the leadership of Galahad, are about to begin the search for the Grail. All are assembled in the cathe- dral to receive the episcopal benediction before setting out on their wanderings. The fifth picture brings the quest as far as THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 2S the Knight's visit to the castle of the Fisher King, Amfortas, the King of the Grail Castle, who, because he had taken up arms in the cause of an unholy love, lies with all his court under the paralysis of deathless age. The Procession of the Grail passes before the youth's eyes, and had he asked its meaning the cup borne in the procession would have been revealed to him, and the spell would have been lifted from Amfortas, to whom the peace of death would have come. But a savor of worldly wisdom in the youth's mind prompts the answer; the question is not put, and another chance of putting it must be labored for. The next scene is in the woods outside the castle. Here roam the Loathly Lady and two companions, one of them in boy's attire, who urges the others on with a scourge. They, too, are under the spell, doomed against their will to lure Knights to sin and death, until the stainless one shall come. Sir Galahad has come and failed; and, as he kneels in an attitude of contrition, they assail him with jeers and curses. In the next picture his active pen- ance has begun. Single-handed, he meets the onslaught of the seven Knights of the Deadly Sins, who keep the Virtues im- prisoned. His victory opens the prison gates; we see him next receiving the keys from the hand of a monk who blesses him. The following picture records his reception by the Virtues, a long line of beautiful maidens, of whom those nearest to him touch their hands to his. In the next he has wedded Blanche- fleur and is leaving her, his love and hers still a maiden one, to pursue the Quest. Again he visits Amfortas, this time to remove the spell; and the old King is represented dying in his arms, while over them floats the Angel of the Grail, beckoning the youth to further wandering. In the picture which follows he is setting forth, without his coat of mail, for the land is once more at peace and the people, kneeling and standing, bless him as he goes. The Quest takes him across the sea. and we find him kneeling in the boat, which the Grail, borne by an angel at the prow, pilots to Sarras. A view of the little city, crowning a rocky eminence, is shown, and finally the end is come. Sir Gala- had, now King of Sarras, consecrates a sacred place upon a hill and builds a golden tree. When its beautification is completed, Joseph appearg with the Grail amid a companj^ of angels. The THE FRIEZE Painting b ^^ PROPHETS. jargent. 26 GUIDE TO BOSTON. crown, sceptre and robe fall from the yonth, and as he lifts up his face in adora- tion, it is as the face of a child in its abso- lute unconsciousness of sin. The lobby at the north end of the staircase corridor was decorated by Mr. Joseph Lindon Smith, of Boston. The subject is Ven- ice, at the height of her glory. From this lobby one enters the chil- dren's rooms, which are among the most interesting in the Library. About, four thousand vol- umes are shelved along the walls, which the children may look over and choose, from at their pleasure without having to ask permission of any one. The books include the better class of "juveniles," boys' and girls' fiction, and books of travel and adventure. Large tables are provided at which the children may sit and read. On the wall of the first room hang four documents of unusual interest — the Dec- laration of Independence, the Constitution of the United States, the Articles of Confederation, and the Address to the King, all reprints of the originals, but followed by genuine autographs of the men who signed them. Here is also one of the thirteen offi- cial broadsides of the Declaration, issued immediately after its adoption to each of the thirteen original States. The second children's room is a general reference reading-room, with a refer- ENTRANCE TO THE CHILDREN'S ROOM. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 27 ence library, iiichuling maps, photographs, etc., useful to children in their school work. In the gallery of this room is a Kindergar- ten library for teachers. Cards are not issued to children under ten, but any boy or girl, no matter how young, is welcome to take any of the books from the shelves for use in the rooms. The ceiling decoration of this room is the creation of John Elliot, and is entitled "The Triumph of Time." The painting con- tains thirteen winged figures. The twelve female figures repre- sent the Hours, and the one male figure, Time. The Christian Centuries are typified by twenty horses arranged in five rows, of four each. In each row the two centre horses are side by side, and between these and the outer horses are two winged female figures representing Hours. On either side of the car, in which is the figure of Time, are the Hours of Life and Death. Seen from before the door of the children's room the design begins in the neighborhood of the nearer left-hand corner, and describes a semi-circle, with a downward sweep over an effect of clouds, back to the left again, to a point about two-thirds across the canvas, and culminates in a disk, the sun, before which are the leading horse and the figure typifying the Twentieth Century. In the nearer right-hand corner is a crescent moon with a full disk faintly showing. The decoration is divided in the centre by a beam, but notwithstanding this division, the composition is consecutive. The room beyond the second children's room is the Lecture Hall. Under the auspices of the Trustees a course of free lec- tures is given here each year. Lectures are given occasionally under the auspices of some of the local art clubs. The third floor is reached from the Venetian lobby by a flight of stairs, open to the hall above, leading between the wall of Bates Hall, and of the staircase corridor. The third floor is de- voted to the special libraries. The rooms and corridors in whicii they are shelved are approached through a long, high gallery, called Sargent Hall, after the painter who has undertaken to decorate its walls. Sargent Hall is in about the same proportions of length, breadth, and height as Bates Hall, though much smaller. It is eighty-four feet long, twenty-three wide, and twenty-six high. 28 GUIDE TO BOSTON. THE LUNETTE. Painting by John S. Sargent. When the decorations of Sargent Hall are completed they will, in the words of Mr. Sargent, represent "The Triumph of Religion — a mural decoration illustrating certain stages of Jewish and Christian history." The portion now in place consists of a lunette, a frieze, and a section of the ceiling. On the rib between the lunette and the arch is inscribed the text of the subject, coii- densed from verses 21-45 of the io6th Psalm: (21) They forgat God their saviour, which had done great things in Egypt; (36) And they served. . . .idols; which were a snare unto them. {2>7) Yea, they sacrificed their sons and their daughters unto devils, (38) And shed innocent blood, even the blood of their sons and of their daughters unto the idols of Canaan:. . . .(40) There- fore was the wrath of the Lord kindled against his people,.... (41) And he gave them into the hand of the heathen; and they that hated them ruled over them. (42) Their enemies also op- pressed them, and they were brought into subjection under their hand. (44) Nevertheless he regarded their affliction, when he heard their cry: (45) And he remembered for them his covenant. In the ceiling the gods of polytheism and idolatry are depicted, and mingling with the powers of evil are also the symbols of the kindly forces of nature which these gods typified THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 29 in the minds of their votaries; w hich forces to some extent beau- tified even the worst forms of idolatry. The goddess Neith, whose f(^rm underlies the wh-de, typifies the forces which first aroused the religious craving of the human heart. In the frieze, which has been compared "to a Greek chorus interpreting and supporting the movement of a great drama," are the Hebrew- Prophets, the exponents of monotheism, looking to the true and unseen God for guidance and inspiration. In the lunette is illus- trated the victory of monotheism over polytheism. The Jews, fallen from their ancient faith, are crushed beneath Egyptian and Assyrian tyranny, their hands are raised in supplication for help, nnd the mighty arms of Jehovah restrain the scourge of Pharaoh and the threatened blow of the Assyrian. It will be noticed that Darts of the decoration are modeled in relief. This is a departure from the traditions of mural painting, but it adds much strength to the interpretation of the artist's ideal. Of the special libraries, that devoted to music contains eight thousand volumes. Here are also found all the leading American and foreign musical magazines and periodicals. It is the largest and most complete musical library in this country. In the Barton Library are the Barton, Barlow, Prince, Lewis and Tick- nor collections. ]\Iost important of all the special collections is the library of John Adams, second President of the United States, bequeathed by him to his native town of Quincy, and now in the Boston Public Library for safe keeping. The Library of the Boston Browning Society, given to the Boston Public Library; the Longfellow Memorial collection; the Whitman collection, and the Thayer collection of extra illustrated books, formed by four sisters, and given or bequeathed at various times during a period of years, are among the special collections. The Library is also the custodian of the Library of the American Statistical Association, a valuable statistical library; the Codman collection of books on landscape gardening and architecture; and a fine collection of library maps. The fine arts room contains over ten thousand photographs of works of art from all over the world. This collection is kept in dust-proof cases, and the photographs are used as references in connection with the numerous works on art. In the south 30 GUIDE TO BOSTON. corridor, which is an extension of the fine arts room proper, are a number of tables and desks with accommodations for drawing and sketching for the use of art students. The walls of the fine arts room are covered with interesting colored photographs, rare plates, etc., which arc frequently changed. Above the special library floor is a small room wdiere photographs may be made from plates or manuscripts. The interior court, which is one of the attractive features of the Library, may be reached from either of the entrance hall corri- dors. In the centre of a w^ell-kept grass plot is a fountain. The walls are of a yellowMsh-gray brick and jMilford granite. The wall of the grand staircase projects into the court, and around the other three walls runs a charming arcaded promenade, the arches, columns and cornice of white marble, over which is a marble parapet. Along the wall are low oak benches, where, on AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE FINE ARTS ROOM. iJATES HALL. 32 GUIDE TO BOSTON. warm days, one may sit and read, instead of in the regular read- ing rooms. It must be borne in mind that this structure represents only a portion (though, of cfnirse, the principal portion) of a great library system, covering the whole city of Boston. The system comprises the central library on Copley Square, just described, THE INTERIOR COURT. containing about 800,000 volumes; ten branch libraries, with permanent collections of books; twenty delivery stations, of which seven are reading-rooms, and thirty-one schools are sup- plied with books. The Library is open to the public from nine o'clock in the morning on week-days, and two in the afternoon on Sundays, until nine o'clock in the evening during the summer, and until THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 33 ten during the colder months. Books are not issued, however, after nine, the extra winter hour being intended merely as a con- venience to those reading and studying in the building. OTHER LIBRARIES. The Boston Atheneum Library, in the Atheneum Building at io>2 Beacon Street, belongs to a private society. While the right to use this library is confined to the shareholders and their families, great courtesy is shown to strangers and scholars who may wish to consult its shelves. The library contains about 200,000 volumes, many of which are rare and valuable. One of its interesting features is a large portion of George Washington's library. The Boston Medical Library Association has its collection of 20,000 volumes and 12,000 pamphlets housed at 19 Boylston Place. The Congregational Library of 45,000 books and 75,000 pam- phlets is to be found in the Congregational Building at 14 Beacon Street. The General Theological Library at 53 Mount Vernon Street has nearly 18,000 volumes. The library of the Massachusetts Historical Society, in the society's fine building at the corner of Boylston Street and the Fenway. It contains about 50,000 volumes, 100,000 pamphlets, and many valuable manuscripts. The library of the New England Historic-Genealogical So- ciety at 18 Somerset Street is open to the public, and is con- venient for persons hunting up their genealogies. It contains 25,000 volumes and 100,000 pamphlets. The Natural History Museum Library, in the building of the Boston Natural History Society, Boylston Street, corner of Berkeley, contains about 25,000 volumes. The State Library of Massachusetts occupies quarters in the State House, THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. The Boston Museum of Fine Arts is centrally located in Cop- ley Square, jnst scnitheast of Trinity Church. It is open every week-day, except Mon- day, from 9 A. M. to sun- set; on Monday, from 12 JM. to sunset; on Sunday, from I P. M. to sunset. Admission is free on Sat- urdays and Sundays. On other days an admission fee of 25 cents is charged. On pay days the smaller number of visitors is an advantage not to be over- looked. The Museum is a private corporation, which has been supported entire- ly by the generosity of its friends. The only help it has received from State or city is the land on which the building stands. Next to the Metropolitan Muse- um in New York it is the best equipped art museum in America. Tt is possible in this guide to indicate only in a DISKOBULOS. After Myron. 34 THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 35 very general way the scope of the collections. The pictures and other objects are numbered, and many of them are inscribed, but to enjoy the collection thoroughly visitors should purchase the catalogues which are sold in the entrance hall. The first floor is devoted to the collection of casts, and these are arranged in very nearly chronological order. There are about eight hundred of these casts, illustrating the history of art from 4,000 years B. C, through Egyptian, Assyrian, Persian, Greek, Roman, Mediaeval and Renaissance periods. The floor plans accompanying this article will enable the visitor to locate different groups and collections, and in passing from room to room he may choose the route which will unfold to him the vari- ous phases of the development and decline of classical sculpture. The tour of the first floor should begin at the right side of the entrance hall and continue through the rooms devoted to Egyp- IN THE COKRiUOR. 36 GUIDE TO BOSTON. tian and Assyrian sculpture, tlie first, second and third Greek rooms, the room of Egyptian Antiquities to the left of the third Greek room, the room devoted to busts and small bronzes (Greek and Roman), to the Parthenon room. The dififerent Greek rooms show the course of Greek sculpture from its crude beginnings through every period of growth, until, in the Parthenon room, may be studied the highest development of that art. In the Parthenon Room No. 422 is a model of the Akropolis, in its pres- ent condition, which shows not only the principal monuments, but all the foundations of other buildings brought to light during the recent investigations, and also the grottoes and other fea- tures of the rock outside the walls. The principal buildings are indicated by inscriptions. After studying this plan of the Akro- polis one is betterpreparedto study the fragments of the glorious Temple of Athena and the model of the southwest corner of IRENAISSANC ITALIA t ETRUSCAN ANTIQUITIES ff ^ — I — rf FRENCH AND 3ERMAN PLAN OF THE FIRST ARRANGEMENT FLOOR. SHOWING THE OF THE CASTS. THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 37 this temple on a scale of one-tenth, which stands in the corridor directly opposite one of the doors of this room. The casts of the Erechtheion should be studied immediately after the Parthenon. These casts were placed in the Hall of the Maidens, because it was the only room of sufficient height to admit the porch of the Maidens. Chronologically these details belong to the period immediately following that of the Parthenon sculptures. As the Parthenon symbolizes the dignity and grandeur of Greek archi- tecture, so the Erechtheion illustrates its capacity for grace and refinement. Having finished an inspection of the Erechtheion, a return should be made to the corridor and the tour resumed. The room devoted to modern sculpture brings us again to the entrance hall, from which we ascend to the upper floor. The second floor is devoted to collections of paintings in oil and water colors, to prints, illuminated books, pottery, porcelain, glass, coins, metal work, wood carving, arms and textiles. The CORRIDOR JAPANESE POTTERY, KAKEMONOS, SCREENS JAPANESE ROOM COIN ROOM METAL ROOM WOOD I LAWRENCE CARVING, ARMS, ETC. -f ROOM \-- POTTERY, PORCELAIN. GLASS TEXTILE GALLERY SECOND FLOOR, 38 GUIDE TO BOSTON. excellent catalogues sold by the ]\Iuseum are indispensable to a satisfactory inspection of the collection. It is proposed here to indicate in a general way some of the pictures which may be seen in a limited time by those who do not care for more than a passing glimpse of the other art treasures here housed. The Museum is especially strong in its pictures by early American artists, and these are sure to draw many visitors who are not especially interested in the other fine collections. From the right, after ascending the stairs, one enters the first picture gallery. Here will be found examples of the early Italian, Spanish, Flemish and Dutch painters. Among the num- bers which are especially worthy of note may be mentioned: No 30, "The Virgin and Child with St. John," by Sandro Botticelli. Of this picture a critic writes: "A work of the first class by this so unequal master. The forms have something grand about them. The expression of the heads is that of a deep and mysterious melancholy; the execution is of great decision and mastery, and the whole in excellent keeping." No. 49, A Donor and his two patron saints, Peter with the keys, Paul with a sword. German school of the first half of the sixteenth century. Attributed to Hans Holbein the younger. This picture was bought at Leipsic, where it had been in the possession of one family for a couple of centuries, by a young American, who took it to Berlin and submitted it to the judgment of an expert, by whom it was pronounced to be an original by Holbein. No. 52, "The Usurer," by Gabriel Metsu. In a sombre room a widow hands a parchment, with seals attached, to an old man. A little basket holding papers hangs upon her left arm, and in her right hand she holds a handkerchief with which she dries her tears. The old man, seated before a table covered with a red- striped cloth and heaped up with money and precious objects, wears a red cap. In his left hand he holds a piece of money, which he was preparing to weigh in the scales when interrupted by the entrance of the woman. He remains untouched by the despair which she exhibits. On the left a green curtain. No. 56, "The Skirt of the Forest," by Jacob Van Ruysdael. A landscape full of grandeur, and executed in the most skilful man- THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 39 ner. A marsh extends over all the foreground and in the distance toward the right, enclosed by banks covered with luxuriant vege- tation. The forest begins on the left, and the foliage of the PHOTO BY COOLIDGE. THE ATHENEUM PORTRAIT OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, By Gilbert Stuart. beech, tinged with yellow by the rays of the sun. detaches itself from the darker foliage of the oak and alders. A man is fishing with a rod, and some ducks swim in the water filled with snags and weeds. 40 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Trinity Church. Musein CGI No. 59, "Marriage of St. Catlierinc." with the Infant Christ, by Peter l\aul Rubens. This pieture was a study for the great ahar-piece in the Church of the Augustinians. Antwerp. Portraits of the artist and members of his household are introduced. The . painting is fresh, well preserved, and bears unquestionable evi- dence of the master's hand throughout. No. 75. "The Interior of a Butcher's Shop." by David Teniers. In the foreground at the right, a young and pretty girl is cleaning the lungs and liver of an enormous ox suspended at the centre of the picture. She is seen in profile turned to the right, and look- ing in the opposite direction to watch a dog who is drinking the blood which has fallen into a pan placed under the ox. The butcher is passing out by a d(^or in the background on the right. where are seen, near a fireplace, the master of the house and a servant. The head of the animal is ])laced upon a bench. On the left the hide is thrown in a heap upon the floor, and the tongue is hung upon the wall. A wild duck, a cabbage leaf, and some household utensils complete this strikingly realistic picture, m wdiich Teniers shows his skill in reproducing everything with that scrupulous exactitude and facility of execution, that delicacy, THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 4. ts. ARE. Boston Public Library and that pnwcr nf haniK^ny which distinguish him in such a high degree. This vigorous i)ainting — model of finished work — was etclied by the master himself. Signed in full below at the right. The second gallery, known as the Allston Room, is filled with the works of early American painters. Nos. loi to 124 are by Washington Allston; Nos. 12C) to 139 are works by Gilbert Stuart, 'idle most famous of these ])ictures arc known as the Atheneum portraits of George and Alartha Washington. They were painted from life, in 1796, and bought after Stuart's death, of his widow, and presented to the Boston Atheneum, Nos. 147-164 are by the historical and portrait painter John Singleton Copley. No. 150 is a portrait of the artist and his family. The artist stands behind. Before him is Air. Kichard Clarke, father of Mrs. Copley, who, seated on a sofa, caresses her son, John, the future Lord Lyndhurst, three times Lord Chan- cellor of England. In front stands her daughter, Elizabeth, after- ward Mrs. Gardiner Greene. Nos. 168 and 169 are by John Smibert. Nos. 172-177 are the works of John Trumbull. No. 173 is his portrait of Alexander Hamilton. 42 GUIDE TO BOSTON. PHOTO BY COOLIDGE. "ISABELLA AND THE POT OF BASIL. Painting by John W. Alexander. Other pictures worthy of note in this room are No. i8o, portrait of John Quincy Adams, by William Page; No. 182, portrait of N. P. Willis, by Frank Alexander; No. 184, portrait of Washing- ton, by Rembrandt Peale; No. 185. Head of Washington, by Charles W. Peale; No. 188, portrait of Longfellow, by G. P. A. Healy, and No. 191, portrait of Charles Sumner, by William Willard. In the third pic- ture gallery are ex- amples of the Eng- lish and French Schools, XVIII. and XIX. centuries. Among the most fa- mous pictures here are: No. 200, "The Slave Ship," and No. 201, "Mouth of the Seine," by J. M. W. Turner; Nos. 207 and 208, by John Consta- ble; Nos. 214 to 217, by Sir Joshua Rey- nolds, and No. 238, portrait of Franklin, THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 43 by Joseph Siffrein Duplessis. In the fourth and fifth picture galleries are examples of the work of many mod- ern painters. No. 251, "Jessica," by D. M. Bunker; No. 255, "The Blacksmith," and No. 256, "Little Rose," by James Mc- Neill Whistler; No. 266, Landscape, cows drinking at a pool, by Theodore Rousseau; No. 268, Landscape with sheep, by Constant Troyon; No. 292, The Lookout, "All's Well," by Winslovv Homer — awarded a gold medal at the Paris Exposition, 1900; No. 301, "The Red Hat," and 302, "The Quartet," by William Babcock; No. 305, "The Lair of the Sea Serpent," by Elihu Vedder; No. 328, "The Halt at the Fountain," by Adolph Schreyer; Nos. 340-346 by Jean Baptiste Corot; "Isabella and the Pot of Basil," by John W. Alexander; No. 2)7^, "The Shepherdess," No. 2>17^ portrait of himself, and No. 378, "Home- stead at Greville/' by Jean Francois Millet; No. 391, "Arethusa," by George Fuller; No. 402, "The Rising Storm," by George Inness, and many others will be found worthy of study. In the southern corridor one will notice: No. 415, "By the Riverside," by Henri Lerolle, considered one of the most beautiful pictures in the Museum; No. 417. "The Supper at Emmaus," by Leon Lehr- mitte, and No. 427, "Soli- tude," by Robert Barrett Browning. The print rooms and the water-color room contain many treasures. In trie corridor and in the Japan- ese Room, Japanese pot- photo copyrighted, 1897, by foster bros. tery, Kakemono, screens "BY THE RIVERSIDE." and many objects of art Painting by Henri Lerolle. 44 GUIDE TO BOSTON. will delight the visitor. There are rare specimens of tapestry in the halls and in the textile gallery. In the room devoted to pot- tery and porcelain will be found examples of most of the famous wares. The wood-carving, the arms and armor, the coins and metal work are all interesting, but they are too numerous to re- ceive treatment here. OTHER MUSEUMS AND COLLECTIONS. Boston Atheneum, lo Beacon Street. — In the vestibule and staircase of the Atheneum Building is a collection of paintings and statuary which is open to visitors on any week-day without charge. Bunker Hill Museum, at the base of Bunker Hill Monument. — (See "Old Boston.") Botanical Garden, Cambridge. — This large collection of plants and flowers is open to the public without charge. Boston Natural History Museum. — This fine collection of birds, fossils, fishes, skeletons, and other interesting zoological specimens is in the building of the Natural History Society, corner of Boylston and Berkeley streets. It is open from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. On Wednesdays and Saturdays it is free. On other days an admission of 25 cents is charged. Faneuil Hall Collection of Historical Paintings is open to visitors every day, except Sunday, from 9 A. M. to 4 P. AI. — See Faneuil Hall, page 74. Historic Genealogical Collection, 18 Somerset Street. — At the rooms of the New England Historic-Genealogical Society is quite a collection of old engravings, prints and books. The rooms are open to the public, without charge, every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M., except Saturdays, when the hours are from 9 A. M. to I P. M. Massachusetts Historical Museum, Boylston Street and Fen- way. — A rare collection of historic relics. Among the curiosities are the swords of Sir William Pepperell, Miles Standish and Colonel Prescott, a chair brought over in the Mayflower, diary of Judge Sewall, and portraits of Governors Winthrop, Endicott and Winslow. Open from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. Admission free. Museum (Agassiz) of Comparative Zoology, Oxford Street, THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 45 Cambridge. — This museum belongs to Harvard College. It has no equal in America. Open to visitors every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. Admission free. Old South Museum. — In the Old South Church, corner of Milk and Washington streets, is a valuable collection of Revo- lutionary and historical relics. Open on week-days from 9 A. M. to 6 P. M. Admission 25 cents. (See Old South Meeting-House, page 64.) Old State House Collection, Washington, corner of State Street. — This collection of paintings and relics is in the upper rooms of the Old State House. It is under the control of the Bostonian Society. Open every day, except Sunday. Admission free. Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnology, Cambridge. This museum was founded by George Peabody. It is devoted to the preservation and collection of everything re- lating to the aboriginal, prehistoric human life on this continent. Here may be seen a great variety of implements and ornaments, models of aboriginal houses, models of cliff-dwellers' houses, and of the ruined temples of Central America. Open every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. Admission free. PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. Boston may be said to be trebly blest in the possession of many parks and playgrounds. Three distinct organizations pro- vide and regulate those reservations within and without the city which are so potent a factor in the physical, aesthetic and moral well-being of the community. First in order of consideration we must place the Common and Public Garden, which, with some smaller plots of ground, are under the supervision of the Public Grounds Department of the city. In the second place we must consider the magnificent series of boulevards and parks of the Boston Public Parks System, which, beginning with the North End Park, at the extreme northern limit of the city, is continued almost uninterruptedly to the south, through Charles- bank, the Fens, Olmsted Park, the Arboretum, Franklin Park and Columbia Road to Marine Park, on the southeast. Stretch- ing from the Public Garden to the Fens is Commonwealth Avenue, renowned for its stately homes, and justly considered one of the finest boulevards in the world. Thus encircled by a chain of loveliness which is unequalled by the park reservations of any other city of corresponding size in America, or in the world, it speaks eloquently of the civic pride, the wise recogni- tion of future needs, and the executive ability of the citizens of Greater Boston, that in 1893 another vast system of parks was projected, and that it has been carried far on the way to com- pletion. This last system is known as the ]\Ietropolitan System. In general plan it resembles the Boston Parks System. In its en- circling sweep it includes thirty-nine towns and cities, and so supplements and extends the Boston system, and on so vast a scale that seashore, lofty hills, q-entle little rivers, dense forests 46 48 GUIDE TO BOSTON. and sunny glades have been secured from the encroachments of future urban growth, and dedicated to the people for all time. You cannot be many hours in Boston without making the acquaintance of The Common, so rich in traditions of bygone days, so full of charm and restfulness, lying in the very centre of the great modern city. Let us escape from the hurrying throng of shoppers on Tremont Street, and enter one of the shady paths leading up the hill. As we stop and look across the frog pond toward the Soldiers' IMonument we forget everything in the history of the Common that was unpleasant, and we don't care whether the fathers were far-sighted when they set this ground apart for public use, or were thinking only of their own immediate needs. The fathers builded better than they knew, and unborn generations will rise up to bless them, as we do to- day, for this green and quiet spot which the greed of com- merce must never touch. . Should you see the Common for the first time when winter's magic touch has clothed it all in white, you will not mind the frosty air, as you stand at the head of "the long path," im- mortalized by the autocrat and his gentle schoolmistress, which runs from Joy Street southward to Boylston Street. If it happens to be near the sunset hour, so much the better. The delicate tracery of the trees against the evening sky, the distant outline of buildings, softened and idealized by the mists of ap- proaching night, the snowy foreground, the human element manifest in the home-going crowds, or, better still, in the merry youngsters skating on the pond, and your mind filled with the sense of all that has made, that still makes, this ground hal- lowed — this surely will repay you and make you glad that you have seen the Common in wnnter. The Common contains forty-eight acres. It was laid out be- fore 1640 as a training field, and for the feeding of cattle, and after that time no more land was granted from it. Here stood the granary, almshouse, gunhouse, whipping post and pillory. As early as 1659 it was used as a place for executing criminals, Quakers, Indians, prisoners of war, and those convicted of arson and robbery. In 1745 the forces for the attack on Louisburg were mustered here. In 1759 the army of Lord Amherst en- PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 49 camped here previous to the march to Canada. In 1775-76 the Common was a fortified camp, with batteries and 1,700 British soldiers. Rochambeau's army was assembled here, and Wash- ington's soldiers were also paraded and quartered on the Com- mon after the siege of Boston. From the first settlement of the town all important celebrations, parades and festivities were held t^Mdh. '•m9»«*.4«r*. ♦^ ts -f^;iStn^1^'»^'^^'^^ REVIEW ON THE COMMON OF THE BOSTON SCHOOL BOYS' PARADE. here. The Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company keep up the old-time custom, and once a year, at least, make the parade- ground resplendent with the pomp and glitter of their trappings. Young Americans of the present also contribute to the functions here celebrated, and the schoolboys' annual parade is a sight not to be forgotten. In summer, what is known as the Charles Street Mall is given over to the children as a play- 50 GUIDE TO BOSTON. EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, IN PUBLIC GARDEN. By Thomas Ball. ground. Here also on Sundaj^s are held the outdoor meetings of va- rious religious and other itinerants, and the scat- tered groups of open- mouthed listeners offer many a study in interest- ing human nature. The Common contains the Gardner Brewer Foun- tain and several other drinking fountains, some of which are supplied with ice during the sum- mer. Of the monuments, the more noteworthy are the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, erected 1871- 1877 from Martin Mil- more's design. It is on the summit of Flagstaff Hill. The inscription, written by President Eliot, of Harvard, reads: "To the Men of Boston Who Died for Their Country on Land and Sea in the War Which Kept the Union Whole, Destroyed Slavery, and Maintained the Consti- tution, the Grateful City Has Built This Monument that Their Example May Speak to Coming Generations." which commemorates the near the Tremont Street The monument by Robert Kraus, "Boston Massacre of 1770," stands Mall, between the West Street gate and Boylston Street. On the front of the granite shaft is a figure typifying "Revolution Break- ing the Chains," The bas-relief on the base represents the scene PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 5] of the massacre as it was presented in an old plate published in London, with a "Short Narrative." On one corner of the relief are these words: "From that IMoment We May Date the Severance of the British Empire." — Daniel Webster. On the shaft are the names of the victims of the massacre. The Shaw Memorial, facing the State House at the Beacon and Park streets corner of the Common, is the work of Mr. Augustus St. Gaudens, of New York. It is a monument to Colonel Robert Gould Shaw, the commander of the first IMassachusetts regiment of colored men serving in the Civil War, and his regiment, the Fifty-fourth Regiment of Infantry of Massachusetts. The bronze group enclosed by the stone canopy is a life-size representation of Colonel Shaw mounted and riding into action with a column of his colored troops. Colonel Shaw was killed while leading the assault on Fort Wagner, South Carolina, July i8, 1863. "Right in the van on the red ramparts' slippery swell. With heart that beat a charge he fell. Forward, as fits a man. But the high soul burns on to light men's feet, Where death for noble ends makes dying sweet." On the Bo3'lston Street side of the Common is the old Central Burying-Ground, dating from 1756. This ground was disturbed in 1846, when the Boylston Street ]\Iall was made, and again in 1895-98, when the Sub\\'ay was under construction. Some officers and soldiers of the Revolutionar}^ War were buried here, and many of the tombs were built by wealthy Bostonians. The Public Garden, containing nearly twenty-five acres, is liberally maintained by the city. Here are many varieties of trees and shrubs, and in the season of flowers thousands of bedded plants are displayed. From the time when the first crocuses of early spring dot the brown earth with their delicate hues a never-ceasing though ever-changing beauty show is here going on, until, at last, the stately chrysanthemums herald the approach of autumn. The different statues in the Public Garden bear inscriptions which render it unnecessary to refer to them at length. No one should leave the garden without giving some time to a contemplation of Ball's equestrian statue of Washing- ton, which stands near the Arlington Street entrance. It ranks 52 GUIDE TO BOSTON. as one of the few great equestrian statues of the world. It is so favorably placed that it may be studied to advantage. THE BOSTON PUBLIC PARKS SYSTEM. The Common and Public Garden remained the onl}^ parks worthy of mention until about 1880. The movement, beginning as early as 1869, for the establishment of parks adequate to the AGASSIZ BRIDGE, THE FENS. Designed oy H. H. Richardson. city's needs, gathered force and influence, which finally resulted in the necessary legislation and the appointment of the Boston Park Commissioners. Under the management of this board, the present system of parks was projected and developed. In North End Park, at the northern end of the city, are bath- ing-houses for men and women, with a pier extension into the bay, from the women's bath-house, of 322 feet, and from the men's bath-house, on the opposite side of the park, the pier ex- tends 560 feet into the bay. Of these piers the women's is single-decked and canopy-covered, and the men's double-decked, the upper deck being open. The women's bath-house contains 150 bathing-rooms, laundry and laundry machinery, sanitary and 54 GUIDE TO BOSTON. lioalins;" arrangcnicnls. A haiul-slaiul for open-air con- ceris is one ol ihe features of I his ])laee. This park is a boon to tlie dense resident jiopuhition for whose l)enefit it was ereated. Directly across Commercial Street are Copp's Hill Terraces. Like the North End Park they afford a pleasant and much-needed breathing-place for those living near. On warm afternoons women and children from the hot tenement houses till the walks and benches, and revel in fresh air and sunshine. The Charlesbank, upon the Charles River border of the city, was provided near one of the poorest and most densel}^ settled districts by the demolition of a large number of old wooden buildings and the reclamation of a tract of river-bottom land. It is situated within easy reach of a large population in a congested part of the city. Its importance can hardly be overestimated, and its broad promenade commands a fine view of the Charles River. Ret ween the areas de- voted to gymnastic exercises there is a considerable area of greensward, bearing trees and shrubbery about its borders, which are arranged to screen the houses and trafilc of the streets near at hand from the water-side ]> r o m e- nade. as well as to form an agreeable ele- ment in the play- ground. Boating fa- cilities are provided BALANCED ROCK, ERANKLIN I'ARK. along the water front. 6fi r.inDi': TO p.osroN. and in \hv winlrr srasim llu- nuiTs rnnnin.u Irark is Hoixlod I'nr skatini;. Tlu" oily pn >\ idrs free inslnuMidn in .gymnastics al l)i>tli tlu' men's and women's .uNinnasia, as well as ivcc shower baths and jockt-rs. \'eafl_\- arks ' acres and affords a deli,uhtful place for boat- in.u' in tlu' sunnni-r .and for skating- in the winter, ddie .^rounds are laid out in walks .and (b"i\es, and sludlers are pro\ ided. The \iews across the w.attT, with its .gently cnr\-ini2:. woocK'd shores, are charminL;-, .and worth tra\(.dinm far to enjoy. .\nd .all this lieanty is within ;i h.alf hour's drive < d" the centre ul In relnni to our lK'cl i( )ns of trees, ])h'mts and shriihs in the worhl. The park eo\iTs an area of 155 aei-es, has al)onl two miles of (Irivi'ways uinl fdnr nnles of walks. 'JMie trei-s enllixated hero ari' so planted and eart'd for as to assure ihe niosl favorahic de- vcdo])nient throuKh all slant's of thi'ir j^rowlh. thus facilil al in^' the study of their tdiaraet erisl ies, while tin- most heauliful fea- tures of the natural forest, within the enelosurt-, lia\-e hecn pit' ser\ed. 'Idle huildniKs of the Bussey Institution, includin.L; the lUiSScy Museum, wlmh contains the hcrharium and specimens of various woods, 'are at the sonlluasl cud of the ])ark. Ilaxin}^- \iewed the l)eautit'S of the A rhoift uin. Id us eontimie our drive, leaving' the Arboretum by the .South Strt'ct gateway, and (lri\in}.;" throu.^li llu- /\r])oi-\\;iy to Franklin Park, lyini;- nearly li\-e miles south of the heart of the city, with v\hi(h it is coinu'ctcd by the chain of park and parkways just described. At sucdi a (bstancc from tlu' political centre of the municipality it is still within the limits of the outi'r settled (bslrict, wlu'i'e it is enjoyed l)y thou- sands ot the couimunity. The main interest of the park centres in a ])ro;id rolling tract of j^rass land, whicdi oci-u])ies its hcaiM, and wliich is sui)porlcd on all si(h'S by woodl.aud ui)on plain and hill. This wo<leds the pastoral jiassa^c'S of the landscape a.uainst noise and disl ract ini;- objects. Within the bays of the bordering- woodland arc providccl lawns for ten- nis and other jennies, as wcdl .is jjlayfields- one of them of ^reat sizi- for t he enjoyment of rin"al sport s. Midden within the wood- land are areas set a])arl for swings, tills and otiu'r de\ices for alTordinj4 i)leasure not sulliciently in keeping; with the pastoral landscape' to allow their intrusion upon it. At certain points where the bordering mantle of trees is led toward tin- open paidc inlerioi there are pro\'i(b'd sludters, overlooks and refectories, where visitors may cuijoy c-xtensive \'iows. The dri\cs and walks, which are arranged to briu)^ the pid)lic to the most fa\orc'd i)ai-ts 58 GUIDE TO BOSTON. of the park without intruding upon it, are thronged upon holi- days and afternoons, and the central areas of greensward as well as its bounding groves are enjoyed by hosts of people. In its intormal and naturalistic features this park is typical of the greater portion of the Boston Park System. This great pleasure ground has an area of 518 acres. It is reached easily from any part of the city for a single fare, through the elaborate system of free transfer stations. Visited by thousands of Bostonians yearly, no summer visitor to Boston should fail to go there. One may take a Washington Street surface car, or ride out on the elevated line to Dudley Street. From here the route leads up Warren Street, lined with comfortable residences, passing the Roxbury High School on the left. From Grove Hall Transfer Station a car may be taken to the main entrance on Columbia Road. Those who go out by trolley may best see the park by taking a ride in one of the park carriages, fare 25 cents. The carriages pass down Glen Lane, past the public golf links, around a broad ground known as the Playstead, past the Overlook Building, then near Schoolmaster Hill, where Ralph Waldo Emerson once taught, then through the beautiful wilderness and Ellicott- dale, with its tennis courts, emerging at the Arborway entrance, from which one may return to the starting point past a number of small lakes. Leaving the carriages at the Arborway, how- ever, a short walk takes one down to Forest Hills station, from which another line of street cars may be taken back to Boston. To return to the drive: Leaving Franklin Park by Columbia Road, which, at this writing, is nearing completion, we may follow the boulevard four and one-half miles to Marine Park, which offers a variety of attractions. A long pier stretches out into the harbor to an artificial island. At the entrance to the pier is a picturesque head-house, fashioned after a mediaeval German rathhaus. On the exterior panels is depicted the story of Bos- ton Bay. In this head-house are cafes, where one may obtain an excellent lunch. Across the bridge is Castle Island, with old Fort Independence, where expansive marine views may be en- joyed. Pleasure Bay, almost land-locked, between the iron pier, the horseshoe curve of the shore, and Castle Island, affords a PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 59 chance for a row or a sail on its quiet waters. The boat service embraces canoes, rowboats, sailboats and steam launches at rea- sonable prices. Opposite the end of Broadway is Kitson's bronze statue of Admiral Farragut. Marine Park may be reached from almost any part of town, by using transfers, for five cents. The visit can be made in about two hours, and allow for an hour's stay at the park. In going take cars marked "City Point via Broadway," at the Union Sta- tion, or at Park, Adams or Postof^ce Squares, or at the South Terminal Station. The cars on Broadway follow the main business street of South Boston over a hill on which is the famous Perkins Institution for the Blind, with glimpses of the harbor on the left. ^ In returning, take a Bay View car. This line goes around the hill known in Colonial days as Dorchester Heights, where Washington surprised the British with earth- works thrown up in one night. There will also be a line of cars in operation via the Strandway and Columbia Road to Frank- lin Park, passing through a residential district along a beau- tiful boulevard. If the drive suggested has been followed the return to the city should be through East Broadway, past Independence Square, the Perkins Institution for the Blind, and via Broad- way back to the centre of the city. THE METROPOLITAN PARK SYSTEM. The Boston ]\Ietropolitan Park System is on so vast a scale that only a faint idea of its scope can be given here. Geographically it may be said to begin on the north- east, with the reservations of Nahant, Revere and Win- throp shores, and to encircle the city by many parkways and reservations, terminating finally with the Nantasket Beach res- ervation on the southeast. It will be the work of many years to complete all of the connecting links of this system, but the larger reservations, the beaches, and many of the connecting park- ways have been open to the public for some years. The shore reservations are described under "The Harbor and Beaches." Lynn Woods, a magnificent public woodland, distant ten miles from the State House, is practically a part of the Metropolitan 60 GUIDE TO BOSTON. System. The entire region of two thousand acres has a genuine forest character. Its central landscape feature is a woodland amphitheatre, overlooking which, from almost any point, little can be seen but forest, water and rocks. Several of the elevations command views of the ocean with Nahant in the distance. To the southward the Blue Hills rise above the entrance to Boston Harbor. Within the woods is a series of beautiful ponds. In the southern section Dungeon Rock, with its surrounding pines, is a most romantic spot. It was here that Hiram Marble and his son, directed by spirits, searched for over twenty years for the treasure said to have been buried in a cavern, whose entrance was destroyed by the earthquake of 1658. There are over six miles of roads in the woods, and the bicycler will find them excellent. Mount Gilead, the highest hill, is 267 feet above the sea. It afifords a view which ]\Ir. Olmsted said would make Lynn Woods famous. Electric cars leave Scollay Square for Lynn every fifteen min- utes. From the central station, in Lynn, cars run at frequent intervals to the several entrances of Lynn Woods. The Middlesex Fells Reservation lies within the limits of Maiden, Melrose, Medford, Stoneham and Winchester. It con- tains nearly two thousand acres, and in the words of the land- scape architects employed by the Commissioners, "the reservation consists essentially of a broad plateau thrust southward from Stoneham between the valleys of the Aberjona and Maiden rivers, the surface of which is minutely broken into many com- paratively small hills, bowls, and vales. Bear's Den in Maiden, and Pine Hill in Medford, both less than five and one-half miles distant from. the State House, form the two southernmost cor- ners of the reservation. It includes much charming woodland, ragged cliffs, picturesque crags, ponds and pools, and in its land- scape are mingled many types of scenery." The commission has improved the old roads through the reservation and constructed new ones, opened up bridle paths, linked together old wood paths, and slightly defined new ones, and constructed new lakes, but in all this work has endeavored carefully to preserve in the greatest degree its natural wildness. To see all the points of in- terest within the Fells would require several visits, and to drive PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 61 over the roads would take nearly a day. All the roads are practicable for bicycle riding, though steep grades occur in places. Middlesex Fells may be reached by taking a ]\Iedford or Maiden car via West Everett, at Union Station and Subway stations. The Beaver Brook Reservation, lying partly in Belmont and partly in Waltham, west of Boston, contains 58.35 acres. The land lies along Beaver Brook, and contains the mag- nificent oak trees and the cascade commemorated by Lowell. "Its area," says Baxter, "is on nearly all sides insured against the intrusion of discordant elements by the pos- session of very large neighboring tracts by the McLean Asylum for the Insane, the Convalescent Home of the Massa- chusetts General Hospital, and the School for Idiotic and Feeble- Minded Youth." The "Beaver Oaks" comprise the south sec- tion, and "The Waterfall" and "The Ponds" the north section. Mr. E. L. Dame, in his work on the trees of Massachusetts, says, it is not likely there is another group of such noble trees within the Eastern States. There are now twenty-five of these trees standing, and, with one exception, they are white oaks. Beaver Brook may be reached by the Waverley car from Park Street and Boylston Street stations in the Subway, and Copley Square. Stony Brook Woods Reservation has an area of 475 acres. It lies in the West Roxbury district of Boston, and the town of Hyde Park, and is immediately connected with the Boston City system by the West Roxbury Parkway, which leads to the Arnold Arboretum. In general character it is a rocky wilderness, with steep slopes and ledges enclosing the glen, in whose depths lies Turtle Pond, the source of Stony Brook, which reaches salt water at the Fens. The main eminences — all of which com- mand delightful view's — are Milkweed Hill, at the edge of the reservation, close to Washington Street; Bearberry Hill and The Perch, overlooking the pond ; Overbrook Hill, near the centre of the reservation; Bold Knob, overlooking the Watersweet meadow, close to Hyde Park, and Rooney's Rock, near Happy Valley, in the southern part of the reservation. The best way 62 GUIDE TO BOSTON. to see the reservation is to begin at Bellevue Hill, near the northern entrance, and go southward, in this way commanding many vistas of the Blue Hills region. To reach Stony Brook Woods take Forest Hill cars, connecting with the West Roxbury and Roslindale, Uedham Division line. Fare lo cents. The Blue Hills Reservation, just south of Boston, is the larg- est recreation ground possessed by any American city. It con- tains 4,857.95 acres, and lies within the limits of iNIilton. Canton, and Quincy. It is a diversified tract of semi-mountainous hills and woodland, about five miles in its greatest length, and from one to two miles in width. Hoosicwhisick Pond is within its limits. The distinctive character of the Blue Hills reservation, in the words of the landscape architects, is that "it presents a chain of bold, convex masses of rock and gravel, affording widespread panoramic prospects in all directions.... While several passes and defiles are very striking, and many views from hill to hill are even grand, it is the vast blue distance which tends to engross the attention, a distance here of ocean and there of forest, and there again marked by the remote Wachusett and Monadnock, a distance which, fortunately, is not yet disfigured by the too near approach of any town or city." The chief of the range is the Great Blue Hill, the w^esternmost elevation, 635 feet above the sea. These hills are the highest points of land on the Atlantic coast of the United States, from Mount Agamenticus, in Southern Maine, to the Mexican boundary. They are the first land sighted by the approaching mariner, and in a round-about- way they gave the Commonwealth of ]\Iassachusetts its name. Bacon, in his "Walks and Rides," says: "From them the Indian tribealongthe ]\Iassachusetts Bay derived its name of '^Masadchu- seuck,' the word in the Algonquin tongue meaning, 'the people living near the great hills,' and the region round about was known as 'Masadchuset,' signifying 'near the great hills,' which became transformed into the English 'Massachusetts' when ap- plied to the bay and colon3^ The earliest record of these hills was made by Captain John Smith, who. during his exploration along the New England coast in 1614. observed, among 'the cheef mountaines,' the 'high mountaine of ^Nlassachuset,' probabb' the PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 63 Great Blue, and gave it the name of 'Massachusits Mount.' Later, Prince Charles changed this name to that of 'Chevyot Hills,' which appears on Smith's map. The name 'Blue Hills' was doubtless suggested by the peculiar blue hue of the range." From the summit of the Great Blue Hill may be had enchanting views of land and sea. According to the Rev. A. K. Teele the outlook embraces a bird's-eye view of a radius of twenty-five miles and a circuit of one hundred and fifty miles. With the aid of a telescope, buildings have been identified in one hundred and twenty-five villages, and with the unassisted eye, in a clear atmosphere, a great variety of objects and points, in a wide sweep, can be discerned. On the tip of the summit is the Rotrh Meteorological Observatory. Blue Hills Reservation may be reached via trolley by taking Ashmont and Mil'ton car, on Washington Street, or at the South Terminal Station, which connects at Milton Lower Mills with the ]\Iilton Division of the Old Colony Street Railway Company, and thence to the park entrance in Milton. Time, about one and one-half hours ; fare, lo cents. OLD BOSTON There is no doubt that many of Boston's visitors are attracted hither chiefly to view those reUcs of colonial and revolutionary times, in the possession of which Boston is so rich. It is also doubtless true that a majoritj^ of those who are on other business bent, desire just as earnestly to enjoy at the same time the sights of ancient and modern Boston. In the following pages a little pilgrimage has been arranged which includes all of the surviv- ing landmarks of former days, and, as the old and the new stand side by side, and the old is constantly being crowded and shut in, if not torn down by the demands of the present, it will also afford a chance to make the acquaintance of a part of the great business section of modern Boston. J\Iost of Boston's historic sites lie north of Summer and Winter Streets, and north and west of the Common. It is possible to see them all in one day, but it would be better to take two days for the work, and so have time to read and to think of the events which have given to this section of the city a charm which nc^thing can dispel. A convenient starting point wnll be at the Old South Meeting- House, corner of Washington and Milk Streets. The lablet on the tower gives a hint of the historical associations of the place. The ground on which the building stands was a part of Governor John Winthrop's garden. His house stood just north of the church, until 1775, when the British troops tore it down for fuel. In after 3'ears the land was given by Mrs. Mary Norton to the Third Congregational Society "for the erecting of a house for their assembling themselves together publiquely to worship God." The tablet reads: Old South Church gathered 1669 First House built 1670 This House erected 1729 Desecrated by British Troops 1775-6. 64 OLD SOUTH MEETTNO HOUSE, Washington and Milk Streets. 66 GUIDE TO BOSTON. This church was the scene of some of the exciting town meet- ings which preceded the outbreak of the war. It was also the point of departure for those who participated in the ''Tea Party." During their occupation of Boston, the British used it as a riding-school. The society which formerly worshipped here now occupies the "New Old South" Church on Copley Square. The meeting-house served the city for a time after the Boston fire as a postoffice. It is now under the control of the Old South Preservation Society. Of this old meeting-house Dr. Holmes wrote: "Full sevenscore years our city's pride — That comely southern spire — Has cast its shadow and defied The storm, the foe, the fire." On Milk Street, nearly opposite the Old South, is the site of Benjamin Franklin's Birthplace, indicated by an inscribed tablet on the front of a modern business building. Moving to the north along Washington Street we reach Spring Lane, in which was the spring mentioned by the early chron- iclers, and used by the towns- people for sever- al generations. Nearly opposite, on the corner of School Street, is the Old Corner Book Store. This is the oldest building in Bos- ton. It was erect- ed in 1712, and it has served vari- ous business pur- poses. On its site was tlu' home of OLD CORNER BOOK STORE, that interesting Washington and School Streets. w o m an, A n n OLD BOSTON. 67 Hutchinson, who was banished from Boston in 1637. For many years this corner has been a resort for book-lovers and book- buyers. The names of Emerson, Holmes, Longfellow, Lowell, Thoreau, Whittier and others are enrolled among those who have frequented the spot and added to its fame. From the old book store we will continue our way up School Street, named from the old Latin School, which from 1634 to 1844 stood on the site of the present City Hall. Just before we reach the latter we must turn north into City Hall Avenue, one of those quaint little paths which one is always discovering in Boston. Our object in threading this narrow passage is to turn east into another much like it, called Pie Alley, where we may see over the door of an old eating-house the sign of the Bell in Hand, dated 1795. Now, back in School Street, we reach the City Hall. This building long ago proved inadequate to the city's business, and many departments are located in neighboring buildings. In front of the City Hall are statues of Josiah Quincy and Benjamin Franklin. The latter is the work of Richard Greenough, and Dr. Edward Everett Hale, in his story entitled "My Double and how He Undid Me," makes this in- teresting remark: "Richard Greenough once told me that in studying for the statue of Franklin he found that the left side of the great man's face was philosophic and reflective, and the right side funny and smiling. If you will go and look at the bronze statue you will find he has repeated this observation for posterity. The eastern profile is the portrait of the statesman Franklin, the western of Poor Richard." Nearly opposite the City Hall is Province Street, which leads to Province Court. Here, as late as 1864, was still standing the Province House, resi- dence of many of the royal governors. In later days it be- came a famous hostelry. The Boston Tavern now occupies part of the site. Returning to School Street and continuing, this time on the left, to Tremont Street, we pass the Parker House, one of Boston's finest hotels. ' Across Tremont Street on the corner of Beacon Street, stood the old Tremont House, where Dickens, Thackeray and many other notables stayed when in the city. Some years ago it was torn down to make way for the Tre- gg GUIDE TO BOSTON. mont Building, a modern business block. On the north- west corner is Houghton and Button's department store, and on the northeast corner King's Chapel. "That shocks our echoes with the name of kings." Lest you have forgotten how interest- ing is the story of this quaint building here are a few facts which may help you. In 1689, after the royal authorities had compelled the town to tolerate and provide a place for those desiring to worship in accordance with the ritual of the Church of England, a small wooden church was erected on this site. Here the royal governors and British army and naval officers had pews. On the walls hung the king's escutcheons, and pomp and ceremony had their due, to the great sorrow of the staid old Puritans, who would fain have compelled all within the town to walk in their own narrow path. King William and Queen ]\Iary did not forget this frontier temple, but sent gifts for its adorning, a pulpit cloth, a fine communion service and for the east wall an illumination of the Decalogue, the Lord's Prayer, and the Apostles' Creed. On the pulpit, in those days, stood an hour-glass to mark the length of the sermons. In 1710 the building was enlarged, and in 1753 the present chapel was built. The parishioners continued to use the old building while the walls of the new one were going up around it. In after years, under the influence of Doctor Freeman the society changed its creed, and what had been the First Episcopal Church in Boston became Unitarian. The interior of the church to-day is interesting and attractive. The high-backed pews, the old-time gallery, tb.c lofty pulpit, reached by winding stairs, are picturesque reminders of colonial days. Just north of the church lies King's Chapel Burying- Ground, oldest of the ancient cemeteries within the city. The first interment in this ground was made in 1630, and Governor Winthrop noted the event in his diary as follows: "Captain Welden, a hopeful young gent and an experienced sol- dier, died in Charlestown of consumi->tion and was buried at Boston with a military funeral." Not all the worthies buried here can be mentioned, but among the fjuiet sleepers arc: Gov- ernor Jolin Winthro]i, 1(14'), and his two sons, John Winthrop, 1676, and V']\z John Winthrop, 1707, l)oth governors of Con- OLD BOSTON. 69 nccticut; Governor John Endicott, 1665; Governor John Leverctt, 1679; Gov- ernor WilHam Shirley, 1771; Go^ ernor John Winslow, 1674; Mary Chil- ton, 1670, a passenger in the Mayflower and the wife of Governor Wins- low; Lady Andre )s, 1688; Rev. John Cotton, 1652; Rev. John Davenport, 1670; Professor John Win- throp, 1776; Wait Still Winthrop, 1717; Adam Winthrop, 1743; Briga- dier-General John Wins- low, Revolutionary army; Colonel William Dawes, who rode over the Neck- to Lexington and Concord to alarm the patriots the night before the battle at Lexington; Oliver Wen- dell, 1818, and Charles Bulfinch, 1844. There are many quaint old grave- stones in the yard. Some of these have been moved from original positions and set up as edgestones to paths. O these stones has an interesting history. At some time the was taken from the grave' it marked and was lost. Li 1830, excavations were being made near the Old State House, i found several feet below the surface of State Street. It KING'S CHAPEL, Tremont and School Streets. their ne of stone wdien t was is in- scribed: HERE : LYETH THE : BODY : OF : MR. WILLIAM : PADDY : AGED 5S YEARS : DEPARTED THIS : LIFE : AUGUST : THE [28] 1658. 70 GUIDE TO BOSTON. On the reverse is this singular stanza of poetry: Hear . Sleaps . that Blesed . One . Whoes . Lief God . Help . Vs . All . to . Live that . So . When . Tiem . Shall . Be that . We . This . World . ^lust . Line We . Ever . May . Be . Happy with . Blesed . William . Paddy. As we pass north on Treniont Street, on our right is the Bos- ton Museum, dear to those who recall the time when it was quite impossible to attend the theatre, but when there was nothing ob- jectionable in a )iiiiscitiii. This fastidiousness of the good people caused their critics to dub it the "Orthodox Theatre," and the name clung to it for many years. At Scollay Square we pause for a moment to note the statue of John Winthrop, by Richard Greenough, a duplicate of the one in the Capitol at Washington. Court Street is the old Queen Street of ante-Revolutionary times. The Old Court House, on the right of the street, was built in 1833-36. Young's Hotel, which fronts on Court Street, extends back to a court leading from Washington Street. On the northwest corner of Court and Washington streets is the Ames Building, the tallest, as it is one of the finest, of the buildings in Boston. On the southwest corner is another sub- stantial structure, the Sears Building, and opposite this, at the head of State Street, the colonial King Street, stands the Old State House. There is no locality in Boston so identified with the stirring events of 1768-98 as the neighborhood of this most interesting building. Here, in the earliest days of the colony, was the market-house, and in 1657 this was succeeded by the old wooden Town House, used as the Provincial Capitol. In 171 1 the Town House was burned, and soon after, or about 17 13. the present building was erected. In 1747 tire destroyed much of the interior of the building. Just think of the stately line of gov- ernors who presided over the councils of the colony and province, whose names are connected with the history of this building: Endicott, Leverett, Bradstrcct, Sir EdmiMid Andros, Sir William Phipps, Lord Bellomont. Dudley. Burnet, Shirley, and others. Here it was that John Adams, James Otis, John Hancock, and mnnerous patriots made the first oppositiiui to PHOTO BY C. B. WEBSTER & CO. OLD STATE HOUSE, Washington and State Streets. 73 GUIDE TO BOSTON. - royal authority. In 1768 a British rc\2:inicnt \vas (luarlered in the building. In 1770 The Boston ^Massacre took place in front of the building. Here Generals Gage, Howe and Clinton held councils of war. Fr(^m the balcony Washington watched the entry of the American army after the termination of the siege of Boston. On July 18, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was read from the cast window, and the proclamation of peace in 1783. Here Hancock, the first governor elected by the people, was inaugurated. In 1789 Washington reviewed a great proces- sion from the west end of the building. The State legislature met here until 1798, when all members of the State government marched to the new State Capitol on Beacon Hill. The first public library in America was located on this site, and the first Episcopal services in Boston were held here in 1686. From 1830 to 1839 the city government of Boston occupied this building as a city hall. After that time the building was leased for ofifices for general business until 1881, when it was restored as nearly as possible to its original form and arrangement and given in charge of the Bostonian Society. Continuing down State Street we pass at No. 28 the spot, marked by a circle in the pavement, where The Boston Mas- sacre occurred in ]\Iarch, 1770. A bronze tablet on the wall of a building near by also commemorates the event. The "town pump" stood at the northeast corner of Washington and State Streets, while on the northwest corner one of the first merchants of Boston, John Coggan, had his store. State Street is the finan- cial centre of Boston. It contains the Clearing House, Stock Exchange, and many fine modern buildings. The British Coffee House was on the site of 66. and the Bunch of Grapes Tavern not far away, on the corner of Kilby Street. The new building of the Board of Trade, at the corner of State and Broad streets, su- persedes one in which, since 1770, was an old nautical instrument shop, whose sign was the car\-ed wooden image of Admiral Vernon. The quaint little figure, holding a telescope and quad- rant, was the work of Shcm Drowne. famous in his day as a carver of figure-heads for vessels. The little Admiral may be seen in a shop window in Central Street, but when the new building is finished it will again occupy its own old place. Just OLD BOSTON. 73 at the junction of India and Commercial streets is the Custom House, a massive granite building. A short distance further south, at the corner of Central and India streets, is the Chamber of Commerce building, completed in 1892. The present Cham- ber of Commerce was founded in 1885 by the consolidation of two corporate trade bodies, the Boston Commercial Exchange, with three hundred members, and the Boston Produce Exchange, with five hundred members. Now let us turn back along Commercial Street to Quincy Market, built 1825-26. This is a two-story granite building, with large porticos at each end, and a dome over the centre. Those who enjoy a display of market wares, will find satisfaction in walking through this building. Just west of the market in Faneuil Hall Square stands the "cradle where the child Liberty FANEUIL HALL, Faneuil Hall Square. 74 GUIDE TO BOSTON. PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, IQOI, BY T. E. MA-'.R. IN FANEUIL HALL. One of the Collections. was born" — Faneuil Hall. Tlie first Faneuil Hall was built in 1742 by Peter Faneuil, a wealthy merchant of French extraction, and presented to Boston for a market and town hall. The archi- tect of the first building was the portrait painter Smibert. In 1761 the building was damaged by fire and rebuilt partly by lottery funds. At the dedication of the second building, in Alarch 1763, the patriot orator, James Otis, suggested that the hall be devoted to "the cause of Liberty." Here were held the town meetings, and in the years of agitation which preceded the Revolution many eloquent speakers thrilled and inspired the people and kept the spirit of Liberty alive. In 1768 the Four- teenth Royal Regiment was quartered here, and in \'7'Jz>-'J^ the British officers set up a theatre in the building. Receptions and OLD BOSTON. 75 banquets were given here to Washington, Count D'Estaing, La- fayette, Jerome Bonaparte, Prince de Joinville, King Louis PhiUipe, Talleyrand, Lord Ashburton, Lord Elgin. Kossuth, An- drew Jackson, and others. Channing, Webster, Jefferson Davis, Sumner, Garrison, Everett, Phillips, Evarts, Beecher, Long, Reed, and a host of other eminent men have spoken here. In 1805, under the supervision of the architect Bulfinch, the building was enlarged and improved. From that day to this the general aspect of the hall has been kept unchanged. It is never let for PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, igoi, BY T. E. MARR. ARMORY OF THE ANCIENT AND HONORABLE ARTILLERY, COMPANY. 76 GUIDE TO BOSTON. money, but in limes of general interest the people are still able to secure it for public meetings, and it is especially worthy of note that Wendell Phillips made his tirst anti-slavery speech within the walls where Otis and others had spoken for Liberty. Within the hall to-day are some interesting portraits, copies from originals in the Museum of Fine Arts, and Healy's painting of Webster addressing the United States Senate on the occasion of his celebrated reply to Hayne. The old building has recently undergone a thorough overhauling; all of the interior wood- work has been removed from the floors, galleries and stairways, and these, as well as the roof and belfry, have bee^i replaced by fireproof material. But little now remains of the original interior construction of the building, and of the exterior only the bare brick walls. The hall is open to visitors, who are invited to register their names in a book kept for that purpose. On the upper floor is the armory of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company. This is open to visitors from lo A. M. to 4 P. M., and the collection of portraits and relics is well worth a visit. No admission fee is charged. On leaving the Hall let us cross the street to Merchant's Row, and go towards State Street. At Corn Court, a narrow alley, turn to the right and ff)llowing the alley you will come upon the old Hancock Tavern, where Washington, Talleyrand, Louis Phillipe, and other notables were guests. The building is little changed. The alley will lead you back to Faneuil Hall Square again, and now cross Dock Square, where, at Nos. 31 and ;^3, was the Sun Tavern of 1690. The "Tea Party" Indians here donned their paint and feathers before starting for the tea ships. From Dt)ck Square we enter LTnion Street. At Nos. 80 and 86 was the Green Dragon Tavern, once known as the "Headquarters of the Revolution." The old tavern disappeared in 1828, but a repro- duction of its ancient sign appears on the front of the building which occupies its site. From L'l^nion Street we pass into Mar- shall Street. Tn this cramped alley lived Ebenezer Hancock, brother of John Hancock, Deputy Paymaster of the Continental Army. The buildings facing jMarshall Street, which extend back to Creek Lane, were known as Hancock's Row. At Marshall Street, imbedded in the rear wall of a building which faces Han- OLD BOSTON. 77 over Street, is the Boston Stone, once used as a painter's mill, and afterward as a sign in front of a paint-shop. It bears the date 1737, but it was doubtless brought from England about 1700. From Marshall Street we wind around the corner to Blackstone Street, named for the first white man who lived in Boston. Black- stone Street leads us to North Street, which we follow north to old North Square (really a triangle), where the British troops rendezvoused the night before the battle of Lexington and Con- cord. On the north side of the Scjuare, at Nos. 19 and 21, is an old frame house, where Paul Revere lived. In this part ot the city there is little left to remind one of the sturdy and earnest men and women who lived and worked and plotted and (lied that freedom might here find soil in which to grow and blossom. The men and women against whom one must iostle as he wends his way to historic shrines are from sunny Italy, Hungary or some other land across the sea. It is rather jarring to the historical pilgrim as he recalls bits of tradition and romance which cannot be reconciled to present-day sur- roundings. He tries, perhaps, to picture the j^ears to come when education and philanthropy shall have done their great work, and the descendants of these fc:)reigners shall be as far removed from the people who now eye us curiously as we pick our way through the old North End, as we ourselves are frr)m the "men of 76." But let us look at the map for a few minutes and study the nomenclature of the streets. It will suggest a whole world of history and romance. In colonial days here lived the Boston nobility. Here, leading from North Square, is Garden Court Street, known of old as Friezel Court. How shabby its brick houses ! Nothing to-day suggests the time when the estates of Sir Harry Frankland and Governor Hutchinson occupied the entire square from Fleet to Prince streets. Hutchinson's house was standing as late as 1834, and one of the capitals of its Cor- inthian pilasters is now in the collection of the Historical Li- brary. Farther to the east, Moon Street also leads to Fleet. Here on the east side, half-way between the square and Fleet Street, was the home of Rev. Samuel Mather. There is much of squalor in this locality, but with our minds intent on the past OLD CHRIST CHURCH Salem Street, Opposite Hull Street. OLD BOSTON. 79 we select here and there a name which attracts, because of its quaintness, or some picture left in the mind by incidents of which we have read and almost forgotten. Hours could be spent in this section of the town, but unless one has much time to give he must hasten on, following Prince Street across Hanover, their names so suggestive of days when loyal colonists had not dreamed of the inevitable separation, to Salem Street, and, taking the right side of the street, keep north to Old Christ Church, dating to 1723, and, therefore, the oldest church building in Boston. Authorities are divided as to truth of the in- scription on the tablet, which reads: "The signal lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church, April 18, 1775, warned the country of the march of the British troops to Lexing- ton and Concord." It is pleasant, however, to believe with those critics wdio hold that the tablet is right, though the church would be sufficiently interesting without the tradition which Longfellow immortalized in "Paul Revere's Ride." In the vestry are pre- served many ancient relics, including the prayer-book which shows plainly how the prayers for His Majesty the King were amended during Revolutionary times, so as to suit the senti- ments of the worshippers. There is also a communion set pre- sented to the church in 1732 by George II. The organ was im- ported from London in 1759, and the high gallery beside it was built for occupancy by slaves. The chime of bells in the tower was cast in Gloucester, England, in 1744, and was the first to be used in America. Within a few years the bells have been re- hung, and they may be heard un each Sunday in the year, as in old times. In the crypt are entombed Rev. Timothy Cutler, D. D., the first rector of the church, several British officers killed at Bunker Hill, and a few others. Episcopal services are still held each Sunday in the church. Some of the most in- teresting relics, including the communion service, can be seen only on the first Sunday of each month, when the communion is observed. Entrance to the church, however, can be had at almost any time l)y application to the sexton. Hull Street, named for the old mint master, is directly op- posite the old Christ Church, and as we turn in here it takes 80 GUIDE TO BOSTON. but a few steps to bring us to No. i6, on the left side of the street. This quaint gambrel-roofed old house was built in 1724. It is said that it was used by General Gage as headquarters dur- ing the Battle of Bunker Hill. A short distance further up the hill and we come to Copp's Hill Burying-Ground. In the very first days of the colony this was knc^wn as Windmill Hill, be- cause of the old windmill which ground corn for the settlers. Later on it was Snow Hill, and then Copp's Hill. This was the second burial place established in Boston. The first interments were made here in 1659. Among the interesting tombs is that of the Hutchinson family, desecrated by the insertion of the name Thomas Lewis, where that of Hutchinson was obliterated. The most noted tomb in the ground is that of Rev. Cotton Mather, near the Charter Street gate. There are several slabs bearing armorial devices, which the superintendent of the yard is al- ways ready to point out to visitors. At times, when the gates are closed, admission can be obtained by application to the super- intendent, who lives in the neighborhood. North of the burying- ground, across Charter Street, named from the Charter of King William HI., under which Maine, Plymouth and Massachusetts formed a single province, may be seen North End Park, and beyond, across the river, in Charlestown. Bunker Hill Monu- ment. Having completed our sight-seeing on the hill, let us return to Hull Street, and going west to Snow Hill Street, follow the latter till we turn to the right on Prince Street, and. slill holding our way westward, reach Causeway Street. A short distance to the south we reach the North Union Station, and here we may take either an elevated or a surface car for the Park Street Subway Station. W^e are back now in the heart of the shopping district, and we still have the neighborhood of Beacon Hill to explore. This may be left until another day, when we shall resume our pilgrimage at the corner of Park and Tremont streets by the old Park Street Church. We must pause on Tremont Street to look in at the old Gran- ary Burying-Ground, named from the gr;inary which stood on the site of the church. In this plot ;ire buried nine governor'- of the Colony and Slate; three of the signers of the Decl;iration 82 GUIDE TO BOSTON. of Independence; Paul Revere, the patriot; Peter Faneuil, the donor of the hall that bears his name; Judge Samuel Sewall, and many others. Upon the front of one of the tombs, on the side nexft to Park Street Church, was once a marble slab with the inscription, "No. i6, Tomb of Hancock;" but nothing now marks the resting-place of the first signer of the Declaration of Inde- pendence. In another part of the yard is the grave of Samuel Adams. Near the Tremont Building corner are the graves of the victims of the Boston ]\Iassacre of 1770. The most conspicu- ous monument in the ground is one erected in 1827 to mark the graves of the parents of Benjamin Franklin. It contains an epitaph, composed by their illustrious son, "in filial regard to their memory." Across from here a little to the eastward stands the new Tremont Temple, Boston headquarters of the Baptist denomination. Returning to Park Street we climb the hill, lured on by the golden dome which Holmes called the "Hub of the universe," and of which Henry James speaks as "the most felicitous object in Boston." Just at the top of Park Street, on the corner of Beacon, stands the old Ticknor mansion, where Lafayette stayed during his visit in 1824. Before entering the State House we may take time for a visit to the beautiful Shaw Memorial oppo- site (Sec page 51), and then crossing Beacon Street enter the State House. The part of the noble building facing Beacon Street, and designed by Charles Bulfinch, was completed in 1798. At the laying of the corner-stone in 1795 Paul Revere was mas- ter of ceremonies, and Samuel Adams delivered the oration. A few years before, the ground on which it stands was John Han- cock's cow pasture. There are statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, the great educator, on the Beacon Street grounds, the latter have been paid for by Boston school-children. The granite column on the east grounds, surmounted by a bronze eagle, commemorates the "beaccn" which gave the name to Beacon Hill. The tablets on its base formerly decorated a monument of brick and stone erected in 1791. A bronze statue of General Devens stands near by. The Slate House grounds extend east as far as Bowdoin Street, the old buildings having been removed in 1901. The proposition in recent years to tear 84 GUIDE TO BOSTON. down the State House brought out so many remonstrances that it has been repaired, the cupola on the dome rebuilt on Bulfinch's plan, and the interior arrangements restored as far as possible to their original condition. Meantime, an extension has been built, four times the size of the original building, and involving a cost of $5,000,000. Entering the State House from Beacon Street, the visitor first steps into Doric Hall. Here arc statues of George Washington, by Sir Francis Chantrey, and of Governor John A. Andrew, by Thomas Ball. Here also are two brass cannon, consecrating the names of Major John Buttrick and Captain Isaac Davis, "whose valour and example excited their fellow citizens to a success- ful resistance of a superior number of British troops," at Con- cord bridge, April 19, 1775; two brass cannon captured in the war of 1812; a tablet in memory of Charles Bulfinch, architect; a tab- let "to commemorate the preservation and renewal of the Massa- chusetts State House;" two memorial tablets of the Washington family, presented to the Commonwealth by Hon. Charles Sum- ner in 1861. The Washington tablets are of bluish-gray sand- stone, and are an exact fac-simile of the originals which mark the resting-place of the ancestors of George Washington in Brington, England. Portraits of sixteen governors have been ar- ranged upon the walls. The ceiling of the passageway in the rear of Doric Hall con- tains a skylight with "Liberty" in the centre, surrounded by the names of the republics of Hellas, Helvetia, Fh^rence, Venice, Genoa, Iceland, Holland, Andorra, San Marine) and Rome. At one side is the seal of "Mattachusets Bay in Nova Anglia;" at the other that of "Plimouth Nov Anglia." The large bronze case contains the colors which were carried by Massachusetts soldiers in the Spanish war, and returned to the custody of the State. Nearly in the centre of the building is Memorial Hall. Sixteen pillars of Sienna marble support the circular gallery. The dome is surrounded by a heavy bronze cornice environed by the eagles of the Republic, and above them, in cathedral glass, is the crest of the Commonwealth, encircled, within laurel wreaths, by the seals of the other twelve original States. The floor is inlaid with 86 GUIDE TO BOSTON. several varieties of marble. Within four niches are the battle flags carried by Massachusetts volunteers during the war of the Rebellion. In other arched recesses may be seen busts of governors. The north and south panels are to contain paintings by Henry O. Walker, one entitled "The Pilgrims on the May- flower," the other "John Eliot preaching to the Indians." The paintings for the east and west panels are by Edward Simmons. They are entitled respectively "Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775," and "The Return of the Colors to the Custody of the Common- wealth, December 22, 1865." Passing out of Memorial Hall and ascending the main stair- case, the visitor will notice a stained glass window, containing reproductions of the various official seals of Massachusetts. The executive department occupies the west wing, third floor. All the governors elected under the constitution of Massachusetts, ex- cept three, have performed the duties of their office in these rooms, the administrations of John Hancock, James Bowdoin and Samuel Adams having ended before the completion of the Bulfinch State House. The Council Chamber is of the Corinthian order. The north wall is ornamented by the caduceus and cap of liberty, represent- ing peace and freedom; the east wall by a golden star, represent- ing Massachusetts — one of the thirteen original States; the south wall by the scale and sword of justice, emblems of executive power; the west wall by the arms of the Commonwealth. Wreaths of oak and laurel complete the decorations. The walls and ornamentations of this room are those originally placed there by Bulhnch. Stepping across the west corridor, the visitor enters the Senate Chamber, witn its galleries formed by Doric columns, the whole being surrounded by Doric entablatures. The four flat arches, united by a circular cornice above, form in the angles four pen- dants to the dome. The pendants are adorned with emblems of commerce, agriculture. i)eace and war. Over the President's chair are the National and State flags, the gilded eagle already mentioned, holding in its beak a large scroll with the inscription : "God save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts," and upon the north wall are the State arms. In this room the House of PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, 1898, BY N. L. STEBBIMS. MASSACHUS] :e house. 90 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Representatives held its sessions from January ii, 1798, to Jan- uary 2, 1895, when new quarters w^ere provided in the extension. North of the Senate Chamber is the Senate reading-room, and beyond this the Library. This contains a collection of about 110,000 volumes, including statutes of all the countries of the world, and, with the exception of New York, it is the largest State reference library in the United States. Here is the "History of Plimoth Plantation," by Governor William Bradford, returned to the Commonwealth from the library of the Consistorial and Episcopal Court of London, by the Lord Bishop of London, through the efforts of Hon. George F. Hoar, United States Senator, and Hon. Thomas F. Bayard, Ambassador at the Court of St. James, and received in behalf of the Commonwealth by His Excellency Roger Wolcott, Governor, May 26, 1897. Leaving the library and passing into the west corridor, the visitor enters the reading and writing rooms, and postoffice connected with the House of Representatives. Beyond are the ladies' reception room and Representatives' chamber, both finished in white ma- hogany. The coats of arms and names of the counties are wrought in the glass; upon the frieze are the names of fifty-one noted men. After sunset the dome of the State House is illuminated by many incandescent lights, making it one of the sights of Boston, and, as it is visible for many miles down the bay, it has become a beacon light to aid mariners in entering Boston Harbor. Forty or fifty years ago the streets running down the northern and western slopes of Beacon Hill were largely filled with the homes of the wealthy and fashionable. Changes have taken place and business, ever crowding and insistent, now claims most of the section for its own. Many of the beautiful old homes are now given up to club and boarding-houses, the fam- ilies who once occupied them having moved to the Back Bay or the suburbs, though some still keep their homes on the hill. But the old places will live in "song and story" for coming genera- tions. Many of America's great writers, living in the neighbor- hood, so loved the quaint old houses and picturesque streets that they have filled them with their characters, some of them his- toric, and given them lasting fame. OLD BOSTON. 91 Beacon Street from Park to Tremont is no longer a residence street. East of the State House may be seen the American Unitarian Association Building, a brownstone structure, and next to it the new and handsome Bellevue Hotel. Opposite is the building of the Boston Atheneum at ioK> Beacon Street. Just north on Somerset Street is Jacob Sleeper Hall, containing the office and several departments of Boston University, which also has a School of Law on Ashburton Place, near by. It has SUFFOLK COUNTY COURT HOUSE, Pemberton Square. a School of Theology on r>kIount Vernon Street, a School of Medicine on East Concord Street, and Colleges of ]\Iusic and Agriculture at Amherst, Mass. On the right of Somerset Street we enter the rear of the Court House, which faces on Pemberton Square. It was erected in 188794, at a cost of nearly $4,000,000. In the beautiful corridor may be seen French's statue of Rufus Choate. Passing out into Pemberton Square, formerly a quarter of fashionable homes, now chiefly occupied by lawyers' offices, 92 GUIDE TO BOSTON. we continue to Scollay Square, named for one William Scollay, who a century ago owned much of the property in this neighbor- hood. Beacon Street from the State House to Charles Street is still a fashionable quarter. At No. 25 Beacon Street was the Bow- doin mansion, where General Burgoyne was quartered. Stand- ing in front of No. 29, we try to picture in place of the modern brownstone house, the famous old Hancock mansion, which oc- cupied the site until 1863. Those who were so fortunate as to see the Massachusetts Building at the Chicago Exposition in 1893 will need little prompting to make the picture complete. Wash- ington, Lafayette, and other famous men were guests within its walls. Its old door-step is now preserved near Pine-Bank Cot- tage, on the shore of Jamaica Pond. At 42 Beacon Street is the Somerset Club House, formerly the home of David Sears. This was the site of the house of John Stuart Copley, the painter. At the corner of Beacon and Walnut streets, Wendell Phillips was born. At 55 Beacon Street, the historian, W. H. Prescott, lived and died. John Lothrop Motley lived at No. 7 Walnut Street. On Chestnut Street, just west of Beacon Street and parallel with the latter, Richard H. Dana, Francis Parkman, Ed- win Booth and Dr. A. C. Bartol had their homes. On Mount Vernon Street, the street next beyond Chestnut, were once the homes of William Ellery Channing, Charles Fran- cis Adams, Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, and Governor Claflin. Thomas Bailey Aldrich and Mrs. Margaret Deland are among the present-day residents of this pleasant thoroughfare. Louisburg Square leads from ]\Iount Vernon Street to Pinck- ney Street. Its quaint little statues of C(dumbus and Aristides were presented by the Turkish Consul in 1849. Pinckney Street, west of Mount Vernon Street, is still well known to those literary and artistic circles which have always found delightful possibilities on Beacon Hill. Miss Alice Brown made her home for some years on this street, and in her "Mar- garet Warrener" has made it, with some additions, the proto- type for "Merrymount Street.'' Pinckney Street winds down to the river, and the pretty panel at its foot gives a glimpse of the Charles River and the hills beyond Cambridge. OLD BOSTON. 93 Turning from Pinckney to the north on Charles Street we see on our left the Home for Aged Women, and further on, be- yond Cambridge Street the Charlesbank grounds and gymnasium, a part of the Boston Park System (See page 54). Walking north through the park we see on our right the Charles Street Jail, and beyond the buildings and grounds of the Massachusetts General Hospital, founded in 1799, and, with one exception, the oldest hospital in the country. A short walk to the northeast would bring us to the North Union Station, but turning south and east along Leverett and Green streets we soon reach Bow- doin Square, one of the busy centres through which is a constant stream of travel to and from Cambridge, by way of Cambridge Street and West Boston Bridge. Once Bowdoin Square was a region of beautiful homes with gardens and orchards. Now it is given over to retail shops of the poorer sort. The Revere House is one of the old landmarks of this quarter. It was quite a famous hotel in its day, a favorite with Daniel Webster and other prominent men. Climbing the hill again via Bulfinch, All- ston and Bowdoin streets we have a chance to notice on the way the Bulfinch Place Unitarian Church, and the gray-stone edifices of the Mission Church of St. John the Evangelist. We may also get a good side view of the State House extension. OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON. From time to time in the city's history towns and villages, ly- ing on the outskirts of Old Boston, have been annexed to the city. These places retain their former name, and, to some ex- tent, their characteristics. With one exception they are all readily accessible by trolley lines. East Boston, known of old as Noddle's Island, is reached by the ferries from the foot of Battery Street and Eastern Avenue. Some day in the near future a sub-marine tunnel, now under construction, will connect it with the city, and transportation will be much facilitated thereby. The name of the original set- tler, Samuel Maverick, is perpetuated in churches, blocks, streets and squares. To-day East Boston is a region of factories, ship- yards, docks, piers, fish-curing establishments, oil works, coal depots and grain elevators. The transatlantic steamers of the Cunard and several other important lines arrive and depart from the docks of East Boston. Wood Island Park, one of the reservations of the Boston Park System, affords a delightful resort for the residents of this populous district. East Boston is connected with Chelsea (See page 131) by a bridge over Chelsea Creek, and with Winthrop (See pageiij) by bridge, or drive across Breed's Island. Charlestown, settled in 1629, and annexed to Boston in 1872, offers few attractions to visitors aside from the Navy Yard and Bunker Hill Monument. Very few of its four hundred houses escaped the burning of the town during the Battle of Bunker ITill. To see the Navy Yard, leave the car at Wapping Street and walk cast to the Wapping Street gate, where permission for the \isit may be obtained. The yard is open daily between sun- rise and sunset, and visitors are freely admitted. The yard covers Moulton's Point, where the British troops landed for the (94) OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON. 95 Battle of Bunker Hill. The granite walls enclose ninety-one acres with a water frontage of a mile and three-quarters. The commandant's house and some of the other buildings date from the early years of the nineteenth century. The rope-walk, the dry-dock, and the Naval Museum are points which will attract visitors; but the chief interest of all will centre in "Old Iron- sides," which now lies quietly at anchor after her toilsome but glorious career. From the Navy Yard walk by way of Wapping, Chelsea and Chestnut streets to Bunker Hill Monument on Breed's Hill. Soon after entering Chestnut Street, Winthrop Square, the old training field, is passed on the left. The monument covers the southeast corner of the old redoubt behind which the Americans stood on the seventeenth of June, 1775. The obelisk measures thirt}^ feet square at its base, and rises to the apex, two hundred 'OLD IRONSIDES.' 96 GUIDE TO BOSTON. and twenty feet. The observatory at the top is reached by a spiral flight of two hundred and ninety-five stone steps. It is a weary climb, but the magnificent views from the windows am- ply repay one for the effort. In the lodge at the base of the monument is a museum containing various memorials of the battle, a statue of General Warren, and a model of the first monument. The monument was designed by Greenough. It was begun in 1825, completed in 1842, and formally dedicated on June 17, 1843. The occasion was a memorable one. President John Tyler, with the members of his cabinet, were among the men of distinction present, and Mr. Webster was the orator, A memorial stone in the path-edge near the mon- ument is supposed to mark the spot where Warren fell, but the actual place was further north, at the head of Pleasant Street, where the Methodist Church now stands. The spot where Prescott stood at the opening of the fight is marked by Story's bronze portrait statue of Prescott. The ancient Charlestown graveyard is closed to the general public, but the gate key may be obtained by any visitor upon application at the apothecary shop on the Main Street corner. It is crowded with tombs and graves well shaded by trees. The oldest slab is marked 1642. This bears the name of Maud Russell, wife of William Russell. The Harvard monument, a granite shaft, four feet square at the base, and fifteen feet high, occupies the highest point in the inclosure. It is the most con- spicuous object here, and was erected in 1828 by alumni of the University. The inscriptions, now almost obliterated, are in these words: (On the eastern face.) "On the twenty-sixth day of September, A. D. 1828, this stone was erected by the graduates of the University at Cambridge in honor of its founder, who died at Charlestown on the twenty-sixth day of September, A. D. 1638." (Western face. In Latin.) "That one who merits so much from our hterary men should no longer be without a monument, however humble, the graduates of the University of Cambridge, New England, have erected this stone nearly two hundred years after his death, in pious and perpetual remembrance of John Harvard." Brighton is reached via Cambridge by cars starting from Bow- doin Square, or by Newton cars at Subway stations or Copley BUNKER HILL MONUMENT. 98 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Square. The latter route is more direct and pleasanter, the cars following Boylston Street, Massachusetts Avenue, Beacon Street, Commonwealth Avenue and Brighton Avenue to the Newton line. Brighton was settled in 1635, became a parish in 1779, a town in 1807, and a part of Boston in 1874. It is a great cattle market, and has extensive stockyards. The part of Brigh- ton which adjoins Brookline, called Aberdeen, is built up with dwellings of very unique and attractive character. Chestnut Hill Reservoir is in the Brighton district, though commonly reached by passing through Brookline. The West Roxbury district is reached by cars from the Sub- way stations or Copley Square. This district forms the extreme southwesterly part of Boston, and has within its limits Jamaica Plain, Olmsted Park, the Arnold Arboretum, and Franklin Park, parts of the chain of Boston parks (See page 56); Mount Bellevue (348 feet), the highest of the hills of Boston; the Stony Brook Reservation of the Metropolitan Parks System; the beautiful Forest Hills Cemetery, and "Brook Farm," the place where the famous experiment in socialism was tried in 1841-47, and the scene of Hawthorne's "Blithedale Romance." West Roxbury has been a part of Boston since 1874, but it still retains sections of great rural beauty, where green lanes and over-arching trees are found. Jamaica Plain, the first part set- tled, was given its name in commemoration of Cromwell's con- qu'est of the island of Jamaica. Before that time it was called Pond Plain, from the pond on its borders. The West Roxbury and Dedham branches of the Providence Division, New York, New Haven and Hartford Railway, pass through the heart of the district, while electric car lines cover Jamaica Plain and West Roxbury Village. On the square at Centre and South streets is the Soldiers' Monument, the site of the first schoolhouse of the town. Facing this square is the historic Loring-Greenough house, headquarters of General Nathaniel Green, in May, 1775. and during the siege of Boston used as a hospital. The house, though built in 1758, is in an excellent state of preservation. It is but a short walk from the square to the Arborway and the entrance to the Arnold Arboretum (See page 57). South Street leads from the Square to the Forest Hills station of the OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON. 99 New York, New Haven and Hartford Railway. Here the Park driveways pass under the railroad. Forest Hills Cemetery may be reached by taking direct trol- ley line, which runs out Washington, Boylston and Tremont streets, or from Subway and elevated stations by transfer at Dudley Street. This beautiful cemetery adjoins Franklin Park and might well be included in the tour of the parks suggested in Chapter HI. While not so widely known as Mount Auburn, there is no doubt that Forest Hills is even more fortunate than the LAKE HllJlSCliS, FOREST HILLS CEMETERY. former in its landscape features, its natural beauties have been enhanced by the skill of the landscape gardener, and from its hills, ledges and bell tower charmin 172 GUIDE TO BOSTON. 7 W/ .-z._„_ INTERIOR SYMPHONY HALL. St. Botolph Club, 2 Newbury Street. Somerset Club, 42 Beacon Street. — The most fashionable and cxchisive chib in Boston. Temple Club, 74 Bc^ylston Street. Twentieth Century Club, 2 Ashburton Place. CHURCHES. Of the several hundred churches in Boston, some are more interesting, either from an historical or architectural standpoint, than others; some attract because of their musical service or ritual; others, again, because of the fame of the preachers who occupy their pulpits. We name here a few of those churches, which for some of the reasons mentioned above would be most attractive to strangers: VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 173 Arlington Street Church (Unitarian), Arlington Street, corner of Boylston.^ — The exterior of this church is plain. The interior is modeled after the Church of St. Annunziata, at Genoa, by Giacomo Delia Porta. In the tower is a musical chime i)f sixteen bells. This church has one of the finest choirs in the city. Berkeley Temple (Congregational). Berkeley Street, near Trcmont. — One of the mr)st active churches in Boston. Bromfield Street Church (Methodist), 36 Bromfield Street. Cathedral of the Holy Cross (Roman Catholic). Washington Street, corner of Alalden. — The largest Roman Catholic Church in New England. Central Church (Congregational), Berkeley Street, corner of Newberry. — Morning and vesper services. One of the most beautiful churches in Boston. The stained-glass in this church is the finest in Boston. The church is open daily at certain hours. Excellent music by quartet choir. Christ Church (Episcopalian), Salem Street, head of Hull Street. — Morning services only. Church of the Advent (High Church, Episcopal), corner of Brimmer and Mount Vernon streets. — Those who enjoy elabo- rate ritual will be interested in the service. Music by boy choir. Church of the Immaculate Conception (Jesuit), Harrison Ave- nue, corner of East Concord Street. — A beautiful church interior. Exccltent music. Clarendon Street Baptist, Clarendon Street, near Tremont. Every-Day Church (Universalist), Shawmut Avenue, near Canton Street. First African M. E. Church, 68 Charles Street. First Baptist Church, Commonwealth Avenue and Clarendon Streets. — Quartet choir. Fine musical programme in evening. First Church in Boston (Unitarian), Marlboro Street, corner Berkeley. — Successor of the Congregational Church organized m 1630. Morning service only. First Church of Christ (Scientist), Falmouth Street, corner Norway. Known as the "Mother Church" of Christian Science. First Presbyterian Church, corner Columbus Avenue and Berkeley Street. 174 GUIDE TO BOSTON. First Spiritual Temple, Newbury Street, corner Exeter. — The principal Spiritualist meeting-place in the city. King's Chapel (Unitarian), Tremont Street, corner School Street. (See page 68.) Mount Vernon Church (Congregational), Beacon Street, cor- ner Massachusetts Avenue. — ^^lorning services only. New Jerusalem Church (Swedenborgian), 136 Bowdoin Street. — Morning services. ( New Old South Church (Congregational), Dartmouth and ' Boylston streets. — Successor to the Old South Meeting-House. (See "Old Boston.") Next to Trinity the finest church edifice in Boston. It is built of Roxbury and Ohio stone, in the Northern Italian Gothic stjde of architecture. Its great tower rises to a height of 240 feet. From this tower an arcade, containing me- morial tablets, extends to the south transept. Over the centre of the edifice is a large gilded copper lantern with twelve windows. The interior is very beautiful, and the stained glass will repay inspection. Park Street Church (Congregational), corner Tremont and Park Streets. — Ever since the days when Rev. Lyman Beecher was pastor of this church it has been known as "Brimstone Corner." An interesting old church. People's Temple (Methodist), Columbus Avenue and Berkeley Street. Ruggles Street Baptist Church, 163 Ruggles Street. Salvation Army Posts, at 886 and 2229 Washington Street. Second Church (Unitarian), Copley Square. Second Universalist Church, Columbus Avenue and Clarendon Street. South Church (Unitarian), Newbury and Exeter Streets. St. Paul's Church (Episcopal), Tremont Street, opposite the Common. Tremont Street Methodist Church, Tremont Street, corner West Concord. Tremont Temple (Baptist), 76 to S6 Tremont Street, near School Street. — One of the largest church societies in New Eng- land. Morning, afternoon and evening services. Solo and choir singing. 176 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Trinity Church (Episcopalian), Copley Square, just soutli of Clarendon Street.^ — This is undoubtedly the most beautiful church edifice in Boston. It was designed by the late H. H. Richardson, and is considered his masterpiece, and one of the architectural genTs of this continent. Its shape is that of a Latin cross, with a semi-circular apse added to the eastern arm, and short tran- septs. A massive central tower rests at the intersection of nave and transepts. On the west front is the Galilee Porch, which has been recently added. The chancel contains beautiful mem- orial windows. The mural decorations of the interior are the work of John LaFarge. In the tower are painted collossal figures of David and Moses, Peter and Paul, Isaiah and Jeremiah, with scriptural scenes high above. In the nave is a fresco of Christ and the Samaritan woman. Union Church (Congregational), Columbus Avenue and West Newton Street. SOCIETIES, FRATERNITIES AND ORGANIZATIONS. American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 1154 Boylston Street. — Devoted to the promotion of a knowledge of the an- tiquities and natural history of America, and to the encourage- ment of scientific studies. Anicent and Honorable Artillery Company, headquarters in Faneuil Hall. — The oldest military organization in America. Boston Symphony Orchestra, a permanent musical organiza- tion with headquarters in Symphony Hall, Huntington Avenue, corner Massachusetts Avenue. Boston Society of Natural History, Boylston Street, corner of Berkeley. Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks, 24 Hayward Place. Grand Army of the Republic, headquarters of Department of Massachusetts at State House Annex. Handel and Haydn Society, headquarters in Symphony Hall, Huntington and Massachusetts avenues. — One of the oldest musical societies in the country. Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, iii Hunting- ton Avenue. Its objects are to relieve the families of unfortu- nate mechanics, to promote inventions and improvements in the PHOrO COPYRIGHTED, l8g9, BY T. E. MARR. MASONIC TEMPLE— Tremont and Boylston Streets. 178 GUIDE TO BOSTON. mechanic arts, and to assist young artisans. It holds numerous fairs and sales. Massachusetts Historical Society, 1154 Boylston Street. — De- voted to the investigation (^f local history. Massachusetts Horticultural Society, Horticultural Hall, Hunt- ington and Massachusetts Avenues. PHOTO COPYRIGHTED GOTHIC HALL, MASONIC TEMPLE. New England Historic-Genealogical Society, 18 Somerset Place. (See page 44.) Masonic Headquarters are in the fine Masonic Temple, Tre- mont, corner of Boylston streets. — The structure covers an area of 10,125 square feet. Tt rises 125 feet ahove the sidewalk and extends below it to a depth of about 32 feet, its contents being 1,600.000 cubic feet. There are nine full stories above the street, and two below. The available floor area in the whole building \ VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 179 amounts to 91,500 square feet. The exterior of the building is in a classic style of architecture, simple in treatment, with granite facades of Hallowell granite, and with the rear in gray face brick. The main Masonic entrance is on Boylston Street. The vestibule is of glass mosaic, and there are niches in which stand 1 r 1 ^m 1 CORINTHIAN HALL, MASONIC TEMi'LK. two marble columns, which were formerly at the entrance to the old building. The main entrance hall is twenty feet square, with a floor of marble mosaic. There is also seen the seal of the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts, done in marble mosaic. On the second floor are a Fraternity parlor, Sodality Hall, and coat rooms. On the third floor are the offices of the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts. Corinthian Hall, on this floor, is con- sidered one of the handsomest rooms in the country. It is in a 180 GUIDE TO BOSTON. very refined style of architecture of the Corinthian order. Around the Hall are thirty-five columns and pilasters. There is an elaborate cornice and ceiling. The decorations are in ivory tones, and in gold and silver. The pedestals are of white marble, with carved capitals, surmounted by bronze candelabra. There is an organ in a case of ivory-white and gold on the north side of the hall. The ante-rooms of the hall are finished like the hall, but not so elaborately. On the fourth floor are found a small lodge-room, with connecting rooms, parlors, a room for the lodge secretaries, and a vault containing separate lockers, in which may be separately secured the archives of each body using the building. On the fifth floor is Ionic Hall. This is a pure Greek room, tvv^o stories high, the decorations being very ele- gant. The organ has a case of Greek design. Connected with Ionic Hall are apartments, waiting-rooms and a Prelate's room. In some of these rooms, as well as in the main hall, are very beautiful panels, figure pieces representing the progress and con- ditions of life. The sixth floor contains an armory, with two alcoves, a small adjoining apartment and two parlors. Gothic Hall is on the seventh floor. Its dimensions are 46 feet by 64 feet. It has a stage 46 feet wide and a proscenium arch 28 feet wide. It is fitted up in all respects like the stage of a modern theatre. There is a gallery at the rear of the hall, and a choir gallery and organ on one side of it. The hall and gallery have a space of 46 feet by 90 feet. This room is used for entertain- ments and dancing, as well as for Masonic rites. At the rear of the hall is a degree room, 20 feet by 60 feet, decorated in the gothic style. On the seventh and eighth floors are also armories, and on the ninth floor are private parlors and parlors for the use of the Scottish Rites Bodies. Military Organizations. — The headquarters of the First Brig- ade, State militia, are at the South Armory, and of the Second Brigade at 2>'7 Tremont Street. The First Corps of Cadets, M. V. M., an organization dating back to 1741, is quarted in an armory on Columbus Avenue, southeast corner of Ferdinand Street. The First Regiment of Infantry, and the First Battalion of Cavalry make their headquarters in the armory on Irvington Street. The armory of the Sixth Regiment of Infantry is on Green VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 181 Street, corner of Chardon, and that of the Ninth Regiment of Infantry is on East Newton Street. Odd Fellows. — The headquarters of the several organizations in the city are in Odd Fellows' Building, 515 Tremont Street. The Women's Educational and Industrial Union, 264 Boylston Street, has for its object "to increase fellowship among women, and promote practical methods for their educational, industrial, and social advancement." It maintains a reading-room, classes in bookkeeping, gymnastics, embroidery, millinery, language, etc.; lectures and entertainments free to men and women; re- ligious meetings on Sunday, for women only, and occasional health talks. An agency of direction gives information as to boarding-houses, summer resorts, schools, etc. A befriending committee visits the sick. In the lunchroom a simple bill of fare, at m.oderate prices, is presented, and women can bring their own lunch, and have the privilege of a comfortable room without charge. Young Men's Catholic Association, 41 East Newton Street, is similar in its aims and methods to the societies for young men mentioned below. Young Men's Christian Association, 458 Boylston Street. The work of this organization is too well known to require explana- tion. Strangers will receive a hearty welcome in the attractive quarters of the Boston branch of the society. Assistance is given to those seeking boarding-places or employment. Lectures and courses of study are provided. Young Men's Christian Union, 48 Boylston Street. — This so- ciety is open to young men over sixteen, regardless of race or sect. It promotes religious and philanthropic work and pro- vides courses of study. Young Men's Hebrew Association, 68 Springfield Street. — De- voted to the social and moral advancement of young men. Open only in the evening. Young Women's Christian Association, 68 Warrenton Street. — This Association does for young women what the Young Men's Christian Association does for j^oung men. It maintains classes in various lines of training, a lodging-house, an employment bureau, and a business agency for the various occupations open to women. 182 GUIDE TO BOSTON. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. City Hall School Street Chamber of Commerce India and Central Streets County Jail Charles Street County Court House, containing Count}'. Supreme, Superior, iMunicipal and Probate Courts, and office of the Register of Deeds ". Pemberton Square Post Office. .Devonshire Street, between ]\Iilk and Water Streets Public Library Copley Square State House Beacon Hill State Prison Prison Point. Charlestown Stock Exchange State and Kilby Streets United States Custom House State and India Streets SHOPPERS' GUIDE. The large department stores are: The Jordan-Marsh Company. Washington Street, between Summer and Avon. The R. H. White Compau}'. corner Washington and Bedford Streets. Houghton and Dutton, corner Trcmont and Beacon Streets. Pitts. Kimball and Company. Washington Street, between West and Boylston. The large dr}^ goods stores: C. F. Hovey and Company, Summer Street, near Washington. Chandler and Company, 27 Winter Street. Shepard, Norw^ell and Compan3^ 30 Winter Street. Gilchrist and Company. Washington Street, opposite Summer. R. H. Stearns and Company, corner Trcmont Street and Tem- ple Place. Gentlemen's Clothing: Macullar. Parker Company. W^ashington, between Summer and Franklin. A. Shuman and Company, corner Washington and Summer Streets. The Continental Clothing House, corner Washington and Boylston Streets. VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 183 Ladies' Outfitters: L. P. Hollander and Company, 202 Boylston Street. Meyer, Jonasson and Company, corner Tremont and Boylston Streets (in Alasonic Temple). A number of stores of this kind will be found (ni Washington Street, between Winter and Boylston. Boots and Shoes: Thayer, McNeil and Hodgkins, 47 Temple Place. The Henry H. Tuttle Company, corner Washington and Winter Streets. T. E. Moseley and Company, 145 Tremont Street. The Regal, Emerson and Douglas shoe store will be found on Summer Street, between the Terminal Station and Bedford Street. Gentlemen's Furnishings (Hatters, etc.): Collins and Fairbanks Company, 381 Washington, opposite Franklin. Bent and Bush, 387 Washington Street. Lamson and Hubbard. 92 Bedford Street, 229 Washington Street. Gentlemen's Outfitters: Noyes Brothers, corner Washington and Summer Streets. John J. Ray, corner Washington and West Streets. Jewelers: Shreve, Crump and Lowe Company, corner Tremont and West Streets. Bigelow, Kennard and Company, corner W^ashington and West Streets. A. Stowell and Company, 24 Winter Street. Numerous art stores will be found on Bromfield Street. Nearly all the book stores are situated on the lower part of Washington Street, between Bromfield and Newspaper Row. The more important are: DeWolfe, Fisk and Company. 365 Washington Street. Chas. E. Lauriat, 301 Washington Street. 184 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Old Corner Book Store, corner Washington and School Streets. Little, Brown and Company. 254 Washington Street. On Cornhill will be found numerous second-hand book stores. Souvenirs: Geo. E. Homer's, on Winter Street, is the headquarters for souvenirs of all kinds. CONVENIENCES FOR THE TRAVELING PUBLIC. In the previous chapter has been given a full description of the great North Union Station, with its perfection of detail for the comfort and convenience of the great traveling public, and some mention has been made of the various departments devoted to furnishing the eatables, drinkables, smokables and readables re- quired by those who arrive and depart from this great station. The description given, however, is deemed all too brief, inasmuch M ! ' H|^^^#& 1 ;rnn»i!2iiffl^^^»^ ^IBBi PHOTO BY T. E. MARK. SMALL NEWS ROOM IN INWARD WAITING ROOM. Showing Entrance to Main Dining Room. 185 CONVENIENCES FOR TRAVELERS. 187 as it simply states that the station is amply provided with proper departments for this purpose. Every great railway station has its dining-rooms, its news stands, its confectionery and soda-dispensing counters, but there are few, if any, in the country which can compare in con- venience and perfection of detail with those in the North Union Station in Boston. The size of the station enables each of these departments to be most conveniently placed, and to be so planned as to serve thoroughly and efficiently an immense num- ber of patrons. In one particular they are almost unique in a great terminal station. They are all situated upon the main, or street, floor, on a level with the platforms upon which the pas- sengers alight on their arrival, and require no steps up or down from the street or train house. This is in distinct contrast with other stations in this city and those of Philadelphia, New York and Western cities, where dining-rooms are upon floors above A VIEW IN THE MAIN DINING ROOM. GUIDE TO BOSTON. the street level. In the first place, it may be well to state that these various branches of public service are all under the man- agement of The G. W. Armstrong Dining Room and News Com- pany, a company incorporated by the late George W. Armstrong, which operates dining-rooms and news stands in many different important railway stations in New England, and whose agents furnish reading matter on the trains. ANOTHER VIEW IN THE MAIN DINING ROOM. The incoming traveler, after his protracted trip in the cars, passes through the handsome waiting-room opposite tracks 19 and 20, which in former years was the main hall of the Boston and Lowell Railroad Station. Between the twn3 broad exits is one of the book and news stands of the company, while to the right is the dining-room, and to the left is the lunch-room. The main Dining-Room, or rooms, for there are two of them, nearly but not completely separated from each other. Sur- CONVENIENCES FOR TRAVELERS. 189 rounded by tall, arched windows, the rooms are flooded with light. The walls are of a pleasing tint. The ceiling is far enough above that an extra floor would give two high stories. It is supported by handsome Corinthian columns; artistic chande- liers, furnished for both gas and electric lights, provide such artificial illumination as may be needed in the evening. It may be well to state here that the entire dining-room has been newly furnished this spring. The chairs, of solid mahogany, upholstered in leather, the china of a special pattern, bearing the name of the company, and the silver, not only the cutlery and spoons, but also the tableware, are all practically new. This, with the spotless napery on the many tables, gives the visitor a feeling of homelikeness which, in itself, enhances his appetite. These two rooms have a seating capacity of from 150 to 200 per- sons, with the best of facilities for promptly serving this large number. There are tables large enough to seat a family party, and there are also comfortable lit- tle tables, just right for a couple to dine and chat confiden- tially, with nearly the privacy of one's own breakfast-room. There is one small room separated by rich portieres from the larger hall, which bears the name of the "D i r e c t o r s' Room." This is so called because each week-day in the year the officials of the Boston and Maine Railroad Company DiRECluRS' LUNCH ROO^L 190 GUIpE TO BOSTON. in this room enjoy their midday meal, a fact which is not without significance when it is stated that the same bill of fare is provided to these officers as is presented to all patrons of the dining-room. This room is comfortably, not lavishly, furnished, and, except during the dining hour, can be occupied by any party of excur- sionists or business men who desire more privacy than the main dining-room affords. In passing, it may be well to state that even the wants of the youngest travelers are provided for, and handsome high chairs, matching in design the rest of the furniture, are ready for the use of the rising generation. Few hotels have more extensive and none more convenient kitchens than this establishment. This department, well equipped before, has just been entirely renovated, and all the utensils and the appurtenances are new, bright, clean and thor- oughly modern. There are steam-tables, where the roasts are kept at a steady heat, each joint done to a turn, and protected by its own brightly polished cover. There is the bain-marie, where the entrees are also kept piping hot. There are the big ranges for roasting, and steam-jacketed stock kettles for boiling, the open fires for broiling, and there, too, is the big dish-washing machine which performs mechanically and thoroughly by whole- sale the work which would require a small army of domestics. The system here is the same as in first-class hotels, so improved, however, that service is quickened and the patrons have their orders served to them in the very shortest time possible, and right off the fire. There is a larder filled with provisions, a refrigerator containing enough meats and poultry to stock a corner store, a wine-cellar which can supply such wines, ales, and mineral waters as diners are accustomed to demand. There is a bakery where are pro- duced such pies as mother used to make, as well as rolls, bread and cakes of all kinds. There are the closets for the many em- ployees to preserve their street clothes, and all the conveniences for the help which are provided elsewhere for the patrons. The kitchen and bakery are models of cleanliness, the tile floors being as free from disorder and dust as any kitchen in a private house. Electrically actuated ventilating fans and blowers keep 192 GUIDE TO BOSTON. the temperature down to a comfortable point. Taken altogether, the "back part" of the establishment may well serve as a model for any hotel or restaurant in the country. All the water served is filtered through porcelain, thus rendering it absolutely pure and wholesome, yet avoiding the insipidity of distilled water, and retaining all its natural oxygenated qualities. The various dishes served here comprise as large a variety as is found at any metro- politan hotel. The charges are moderate, not the cheapest, but as low as can be compatible with the best of material, with care- ful cooking and efficient service. The system is such that the patron's check shows each item with its price, thus insuring correct charges, without any possibility of overcharging or othcr mistakes. But if the traveler is in a hurry, and wishes more speedy serv- ice, there is a Lunch-Room where his needs are catered to with promptness and precision. This is situated at, the left of the in- coming passenger waiting-room. Here, at a counter with viands within easy reach, and with plenty of attendants, the man in a hurry can be served in a few seconds with nearly the same va- riety as in the dining-room. There are here also a few small tables for those who prefer them to seats at the lunch counter, but who do not care to visit the quieter and more formal dining- room. But not only are the men provided with a lunch-room, but the ladies are also. Off from the arched main entrance to the sta- tion, and opposite tracks 9 and 10 is the Ladies' Lunch, a cosy retreat where light lunches are served at neat little linen-covered tables. Here may be obtained salads, stews, sandwiches, cold meats, also pies, pudding and ice-cream and such confections. Here, in a quiet, secluded place, the traveler can refresh herself after her journey, or fortify herself for her trip outward from the city. It is a charming place, which will accommodate thirty or forty persons at one time, with deft waitresses to quickly serve patrons. Thus it will be seen that in the matter of providing meals and lunches the North Union Station is fully equal to any and all de- mands which may be made upon it at any time when the station is open. Close to the ladies' lunch, in fact practically a part of it, CONVENIENCES F(JR TRAVELERS. 195 is the Confectionery Department, where is (hspLiyed a most teni]^tinj4" array of chocolates and bonbons oi the best grades, including- such well-known makes as Apollo, Huyler, Lowney and others. These are for sale by the package <)r by weight as well as in dainty fancy boxes such as would gladden the hearts of the home folks as a souvenir from the city, or as graceful little tributes to the people one proposes to visit. Next our attention is called to the Soda Fountain, a beautiful work of art. Here, in charge of expert dispensers, are served everything usually to be obtained at the best establishments of SODA FOUNTAIN, NEWS STAND, ETC., IN MAIN CORUIDOR. this kind. There is a hot-soda fountain during the colder months of the year, and ice-cream soda, cool beverages and mineral waters are on tap every day in the twelvemonth. A word about the beverages served here. The water used, like that in the dining-room, is filtered through porcelain tubes, and is as pure as distilled water. It is carbonated right at the counter, and is fresh, bright and sparkling. The syrups are made at the labor- atory of the company on Utica Street in this city, where only pure sugar and ripe, fresh fruits are used in their manufacture. One can obtain here, therefore, a glass of delicious soda which will gratify the most fastidious taste. 196 GUIDE TO BOSTON. It is but a step from here to the Fruit Counter, with its tempt- ing array of foreign and domestic fruit, both the seasonable and the hot-house grown, and this is sold singly or in baskets of assortments, as may be desired. This fruit counter is in the side passageway leading from the main corridor to the carriage en- trance, and opposite it is the Flower Stand, where are always to be found fresh and fragrant flowers. This brings us to the main News Stand of the company, situ- ated in the principal entrance to the great station. Much study is required in the arrangement of such an establishment, for, no matter what its size, everything carried in stock must be so placed as to be found and handed out instantly. Travelers leave the purchase of their reading matter until the last moment, and demand it on the instant. The arrangement, therefore, must be such, and the attendants so expert, that sales can be made at the rate of a hundred a minute. It goes without saying that the Boston dailies are here on sale only a few minutes after they leave the presses, but here also are to be found all the New York daily papers at the earliest possible moment after they leave New York. There are also on sale many of the local papers of the towns and cities on the various lines wdiich centre at this station. When it comes to the peri- CIGAR COUNTER AND SlIOE-POLISHING BOOTH IN TRAIN SHED. CONVENIENCES FOR TRAVELERS. 197 odicals their number runs up into the hundreds, every one the latest date, and right under the hand of the salesman. The ar- rangement is a marvel of skill and experience. Perhaps you have never thought of the demands of the public at a railway news stand. If not, watch the salesman for sixty seconds during the rush hour in the afternoon, and if you are not brushed off 3 our feet, you will get an insight into double-quick merchandis- ing which will increase your respect for the ability of these sales- men. Besides papers and periodicals, there are to be found here an assortment of books of fiction and light reading enough to fill a ^ ordinary book store or a town library. The latest popular novels are for sale here as soon as published, and there are to be obtained here books in paper covers, low in price but high in literary quality, as well as those in more permanent bindings. As a matter of passing interest may be mentioned the fact that the company sells annually over fifteen thousand packs of playing cards. This is the main news stand, auxiliary to which is the smaller but still complete one in the incoming passengers' waiting-room, which is shown at the opening of this chapter, while at various points in the train shed are small stands where daily papers and the current magazines ma}' be purchased ''on the run." Facing the train shed, and most conveniently situated, is the Cigar Stand, presided over by one of the best judges of these goods in this city. Here are kept for sale a full assortment of imported. Key West and domestic cigars, and foreign and Ameri- can made cigarettes in Egyptian and other standard brands. The stock includes a full line of plug and cut tobacco, suited to all the varying tastes of the public. Here, also, is carried a small but select line of brier and meerschaum pipes and cigar-holders, together with the commoner kinds demanded by those smokers who wish something inexpensive, for temporary use. to be dis- carded at the end of the journey. This salesroom, though of only moderate floor capacity, is of such height that it is capable of carrying an immense stock, the entire walls being utilized for shelf-room reached by rolling ladders, so as to be quickly accessible, for this establishment caters especially to the box 198 GUIDE TO BOSTON. trade, having a line of steady customers, residents of Boston and other cities, who find here their favorite brands at reasonable prices. Adjoining the cigar stand in the train shed is the Boot-Black Stand, which is another of the public conveniences managed by this company. This is a glass-enclosed structure, thus being protected from the noise and dust of the station. There are six comfortable chairs of quartered oak, brass-ornamented, and as many quick, experienced boot-blacks, who are prepared to clean and polish shoes of any hue and of all varieties and finishes. If a patron mentions to the manager the fact that he is in a hurry a specially adroit artist of the brush gives him a quick shine. The ladies' trade in this line is properly catered to. One end of the enclosure is fitted up with a particularly comfortable chair, and curtains are so arranged that they may shield the oc- cupant from observation. Here any lady may have her boots. cleaned and polished by an expert with as much privacy and propriety as in her own residence. Here are kept for sale also a full line of blackings, dressings and polishes, and also shoe laces, in fact a whole emergency es- tablishment for the footwear. These enterprises for the travel- ing public, great as they are, comprise only a portion of the business of this company, for it owns and conducts all the im- portant dining-rooms on the lines of the Boston and Maine and Boston and Albany Railroads, as well as news stands at nearly every station. On the Boston and Maine road the principal ones are at Portsmouth, on the Eastern Division; Nashua Junction, Manchester and Concord, on the Southern Division. Each of these establishments is thoroughly equipped to meet all the de- mands which can be made upon them. At these dining-rooms the main part of the business is catering to the wants of those travelers who have but a limited amount of time, and quick service is made a special feature, a large variety of cooked viands, hot or cold, being always ready. In the summer season, however, in addition to these, there are other important dining-rooms, where the summer travel is heaviest. Sanbornville, among the mountains; the Weirs on Lake Winnepesaukee. and Old Orchard, by the broad Atlantic, are points where the traveler can find a CONVENIENCES FOR TRAVELERS. 199 well-appointed establishment, and can rely on good viands and proper service. Along the line of the Boston and Albany Railroad this com- pany has thoroughly appointed dining-rooms at South Framing- ham, Worcester, Palmer, Springfield and Pittsfield. At Spring- field there are two dining-rooms, one each side of the station, thus enabling them to serve patrons going east or west without re- quiring them to cross the tracks. To this formidable list must be added the dining-room at Taunton, on the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad. All these establishments are fully furnished with every requisite for the wants of patrons. Each is in charge of a com- petent manager, while the superintendent makes frequent visits, and has a personal supervision of the entire system. Each of these stations has also a fully stocked news stand, where all the Boston and New York dailies and all the principal weekly and monthly journals and magazines are carried, as well as all the leading literature of the day. We had almost forgotten to men- tion here the cosy little dining-room of the company at the Re- vere Beach and Lynn Railroad station on Atlantic Avenue. This is furnished and managed with the same care for details which characterizes all the other establishments of this company. This dining-room is convenient for tourists and Bostonians who pro- pose visiting the harbor resorts, being near the landing-places of all the harbor excursion steamers. At this station also are a fine news stand and a confectionery and soda stand, and other accessories such as are found at the North Station. As has been previously stated, all these establishments for the convenience of the traveling public are under the management of the G. W. Armstrong Dining Room and News Company, whose superintendents and managers of the various branches are men of long experience who fully understand the require- ments of their patrons and the public. Every detail for the com fort and convenience of customers is carefully developed, and as a consequence all whose business or pleasure takes them to any of the points designated above will find there the perfection which wide observation and extensive experience dictates, and which ample capital can furnish. INDEX Page. Aberjona River 137 Adams' Houses, Ouincy 156 Agassiz Museum of Comparative Zoology 44 American Academy of Arts and Sciences ., 176 American Unitarian Association Building 91 Ames Building 70 Ames House, Dedham 154 Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company 176 Apple Island 119 Appleton Chapel, Harvard 108 Arboretum, The Arnold 57 Architectural Building, Harvard. 109 Arlington 137 Arlington Heights 137 Arlington Street Church 173 Armory of Ancient and Honor- able Artillery Company 76 Athenseum, Boston 33, 44, 91 Atlantic 154 Back Bay Station 160 Baitut Hill 135 Bass Point 120 Bates Hall, Public Library 16 Battle Monument, Concord 144 Beacon Hill 82,90, 92 Beaver Brook Reservation 61 Beck Hall. Cambridge 105 Bedford 141 Bellevue Hotel 91 Bell in Hand, The 67 Berkeley Temple 173 Beverly 121, 134 Beverly Farms 134 Blackstone Street 77 Blue Hills Reservation, The 62 Board of Trade 72 Boston and Albany Railway 159 Boston Elevated Railway Com- pany 164 Boston Light 123 Boston and Maine System 157 Boston Massacre Monument, Common 50 Boston Massacre, Site of 72 Boston Medical Library, The 33 Boston Museum, The 70 Boston Natural History Museum. 44 Boston Public Parks System, The 52-59 Boston, Revere Beach, and Lynn Railroad 160 Boston Society of Natural His- tory 176 Boston Stone 77 Page. Boston Symphony Orchestra 176 Boston University 91 Botanical Garden, Cambridge. .44, 113 Bowdoin Mansion 92 Bowdoin Square 93 Boylston Hall, Harvard 108 Brewster's Island 123 Brighton District 96-98 British Cofifee House 72 Bromfield Street Church 173 Brook Farm 100 Brookline 145-148 Bug Light 123 Bulfinch Place Unitarian Church. 93 Bunch of Grapes Tavern 72 Bunker Hill Collection 44 Bunker Hill Monument 95 Burial Hill, Plymouth 128 Burying Ground, The Old, Cam- bridge 112 Burying Hill, Marblehead 132 Bussey Institution, The 57 Cab and Carriage Systems 163 Cambridge 103 Cambridgeport 103 Carney Hospital 102 Castle Island 58, 122 Cathedral of the Holy Cross 173 Central Burying-Ground, The 51 Central Church 173 Chamber of Commerce 73 Charlesbank, The 54, 56 Charlestown District 94 Charlestown Graveyard 96 Chelsea 131 Chestnut Hill Reservoir 98, 148 Children's Rooms, Public Library. 26 Choate, Rufus, Statute of 91 Christ Church 79, 173 Christ Church, Cambridge 113 Churches 172 Church of the Advent 173 Church of the Immaculate Con- ception 173 City Hall 67 City Hall, Cambridge 103 Clarendon Street Baptist Church. 173 Clark's Island, Plymouth 129 Clearing House 72 Clubs 170 Coastwise Steamers 160 Cohasset 126 Cole's Hill, Plymouth 129 Colonial Club House 105 Columbia Road 58 Commercial Point 101 Common, The 48-51 Common, The, Cambridge 112 200 INDEX. 201 Page. Common, Lynn 132 Commonwealth Avenue 46, 56 Concord 142 Congregational Library, The 33 Copp's Hill Burying Ground 80 Copp's Hill Terraces 54 Corn Court 76 Council Chamber, State House... 86 Court House 91 Court House, The Old 70 Cow Fort, Marblehead 133 Craddock House, Medford 136 Crow Point 124 Custom House 73 Dane Hall, Harvard 106 Dan vers 134 Dedham 152 Dedham Historical Society 154 Deer Island 120, 122 Delivery Room, Public Library... 21 Dexter House, Dedham 154 Dock Square 76 Dorchester District 101 Dorchester Heights 59 Dorchester Heights Monument... 102 Doric Hall, State House 84 Duxbury 126 East Boston 94 Eastern Point 134 Elks, Benevolent and Protective Order of 176 "Elmwood," Cambridge 115 Entrance Gates, Harvard.. 104, 105, 109 Essex Institute, Salem 133 Every-Day Church 173 Fairbanks House, Dedham 154 Faneuil Hall 73 Faneuil Hall Collection 44 Farragut, Admiral, Statue of 59 Ferries 166 Field's Corner 101 Fine Arts Room, Public Library.. 29 First African M. E. Church 173 First Baptist Church 173 First Church in Boston 173 First Church of Christ 173 First Parish Church, Cambridge.. 112 First Parish Church, Roxbury 101 First Presbyterian Church 173 First Spiritual Temple 174 Fogg Art Museum, Harvard 109 Forest Hills Cemetery 99 Fort Independence 58, 122 Fort Warren 123 Fort Winthrop 122 Franklin, Benjamin, Birthplace... 66 Franklin, Benjamin, Statue of 67 Franklin Park 57 Fraternities 176 Fresh Pond 116 Gallop's Island 123 Gallows Hill, Salem 133 Garden Court Street 77 Gardner Brewer Fountain, The, Common 50 Garrison House, Medford......... 136 General Theological Library, The. 33 George's Island 123 Girls' Reformatory 122 Gloucester 121, 134 Gore Hall, Harvard ' 108 Governor's Island 119, 122 Granary Burying Ground 80 Grand Army of the Republic 176 Grand Staircase, Public Library.. 12 Great Brewster 124 Great Head 117 Green Dragon Tavern 76 Greyhound Tavern 101 Hancock Mansion 92 Hancock Tavern 76 Handel and Haydn Society 176 Harbor and Beaches II7 Ff arrison Square IQl Harvard Bridge 103 Harvard College, Harvard 105 Harvard Hall, Harvard 108 Harvard, John, Statue of 109 Hawthorne's Birthplace 133 Hingham 124, 154 Historic-Genealogical Collection.. 44 Historic-Genealogical Society 178 Holworthy Hall, Harvard 108 Home for Aged Women 93 Home for Female Paupers 122 Hotels . 166 House of Industry 122 House of Seven Gables 133 Hull 124 Hull Street 79 Huntington Avenue Station . . 160 Jacob Sleeper Hall 91 Jamaica Plain Qg Jamaica Pond 56 Jerusalem Road ' 124 King's Chapel 68, 174 King's Chapel Burying Ground '68-70 Lechmere House, Cambridge 114 Lee House, Cambridge ". 115 Leif Ericson, Statue of 56 Lexington 13s Lexington Green 138 Libraries 7.33 Long Beach 135 Longfellow House, Cambridge.... 114 Longfellow Park, Cambridge 114 Long Island 122 Loring-Greenough House 98 Louisburg Square 92 Lowell, James Russell, Home 115 Lynn 131 Lynn Woods 59, 132 Magnolia ' 121 Maiden I3i 202 INDEX. Page. Manchester 121 Mann, Horace, Statue of O'^ Manual Training School, Cam- bridge 1^^ Marblehead 121, 132 Marine Park oo Marshfield 12b Martin Luther Orphan Home 100 Masonic Temple ••• 1'° Massachusetts Charitable Me- chanic Association laughter BY FRANK R. STOCKTON ntustraied by riV^I| MlrrHEwsli^— err I j iEf Soda iC" I I fountain Company | I MANUFACTURER OF I I yOD^ FOUA[TJ}INS I CJlllBOMJlTOIiS A.V ymatic and otherwise FRUITS, SYRUPS, JUICES, EXTRJtCTS JINB SUMDRY SUPPLIES [ Send for Portfolio of Prints or Illustrated Catalogue BOSTON ST. LOUIS 278-288 Conj^ress St. 2007-2009 Locust St NEW YORK CITY SAN FRANCISCO 1 irst Ave. 2Gtli and 27tli St. 308 Stockton St rillLADELPHIA DALLAS i^xjTnfn^^"^^^ ^^' ^'''■'- Commerce & Field Sts. CHICAGO OKLAHOMA CITY 15-21 North Chnton St. 202 Grand Avenue I I I TWFTS ,, LOW PRICES J EASY TERMS UPPINCOTT . , ™ , „UPPlNCOTT MAY Si 1S02 »^^^ ^.-»*. - MAY 81 mf Established t^5% George H. Waterman. Frank S. Waterman. 9^* ^^^ ^^^ Joseph S» Waterman & Sons, Funeral Undertakers and Embalmers, ^^ ^^ ^^ 2326 S 2328 WASHINGTON STREET, ^BOSTON. - ^ OFFICE OPEN DAY AND NIGHT Connected by Telephone. Roxbury, 73 & 72. Adjoining Dudley St* Terminal Station* SMOKERS OF THE RIVAL CIGAR Will find that mild and aromatic flavor which pleases S^ S> FOR SALE AT ALL CIGAR STANDS CONTROLLED BY THE G. W. ARMSTRONG DINING ROOM AND NEWS COMPANY ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Ask at the Soda Fountain for a glass of The Best Uraln and J\erve Ljrink CURES HEADACHE DELICIOUS REFRESHING 6 Cents a Glass ^ ^ ^ It is just what is needed by Wheelmen, Business Men, Lawyers, Clerks and Ball Players, to refresh the overtaxed Body, Brain and Nerves 1i ii ii SETH IV. FOWLE ^ SONS, 81 High St., Boston, Mass. If you are looking for SOUVENIRS you will find a large assortment at HOMER'S, 45 Winter St., Boston WE ARE HEADQUARTERS-Wholesale and Retail Also Diamonds, Watches, Jewelry and Silverware TEA If you would be sure of obtaining only the BEST and PUKEST tea tliat money can buy, paclced so as to retain its natural aroma, free from the contamination of the odors of suiTOunding articles, get Imported in Canisters. If i/ou appreciate GOODTFA TRYTH£SEBMND5,M0DERAr£jN COS. COFFEE We are the largest distributors of Hij Grade CotlVe in the United States. Eucli l)rand is the best of its class and baelvcd up by our Guarantee as ta ABSOLUTE TUKITY. CHASE & SANBORN THE IMPORTERS BOSTON CHICAGO MONTREAL Pureoxia Dry Ginger Ale and Sarsaparilla MADE FROM DISTILLED WATER TEL. mil BACK BAY ON SALE AT ALL RAILWAY STATIONS ALL GROCERS The Pureoxia Distilled Water Company HARRY A. EDGERLY, MANAGER WHIPPLE ST., OFF 110 NORWAY, BACK BAY I *" ••■:>- BOSTON PLANT JORDAN MARSH CO. NEW ENGLAND'S LEADING RETAILERS DRY GOODS and HOUSE FURNISHINGS 'THE DRY GUOl^S HSTABLISHMENT. " A BEAUTIFUL SUBWAY CONNECTS THE TWO BUILDINGS. ft-t iL J. 11 "THE HOUSE FURNISHING ANNEX.' ALWAYS CARRY IN STOCK A COMPLETE LINE OF ALL THE DESIRABLE GRADES. PRICES REASONABLE. A\AIL ORDERS PROMTPTLY AND CAREFULLY FILLED. JORDAN MA RSHCO BS'^iPi T^ (CONTAINING! Made of the Finest Selections of EQUAL IN QUALITY TO THB BEST inPORTED CIGARS KRAUS & CO., Sole Manufacturers, BALTIMORE, MD., U. 5. A. ^ I HAVANA TOBACCa ! CoDMAN & Hall Co. WINE and CIGAR MERCHAMTS DIRECTLY OPPOSITE SOUTH STATIOK. AGENTS FOR Carstair's Philadelphia Rye, Duminy & Co., Champagfne, Royal Liquer Scotch, Sarbach's Rhine Wine, Ind. Coope & Co. En§:lish Ale, A.B.C. St. Louis Beer, McEwan Scotch Ale, Schweppe's Ginger Ale and Soda. A complete line oF Popular and Special Brands of all kinds of Wines, Liquors^ Mineral Waters and Cigars D. ATWOOD & COe WHOLESALE DEALERS IN and Planters of Providence River, Warren River, Wareliam, Stamford and Cape Cod OYSTERS Also, Clams, Little Necks, Oualiangs, Scallops and ALIVE and BOILED LOBSTERS. 32 FANUEIIv HALI^ SQUARE , -- AND 152 ATLANTIC AVENUE, BoSTON, MASS. Packing Houses : DROWNVII.LK, R. I. Norfolk, Va. Wellfleet, Mass. Davis Ice Cream Co. E. G. Davis, Pres C. E Davis. Treas. BUSINESS ESTABLISHED 1885. Tfce Cream 83 MAIN STREET, - BOSTON, C. D. BRANCH : 20 SUMMER STREET, - SOMERVILLE. Charlestown TELEPHONES \i <^?????^ \] 157 or 158 Somerville 156-3. CHURCHES, HOTELS, RESTAURANTS AND THE TRADE SUPPLIEa OUT-OF-TOWN ORDERS SENT BY EXPRESS. INDIVIDUAL BRICKS A SPECIALTY. W"e make a specialty of Davis' Individual Bricks (wrapped in paper), for Churches, Hotels, Restau- rants, etc. Armstrong Mfg. Co. " -7--- oFF't^E AT Armstrong: & Cleveland /7 Union St, Boston, Mass. EFFERVESCENT GRANULES. Chas. a. KilhaM, TreAS. J. J- Wall, Sect'y. -^ M B h B ■ I rim "^ Registered Trade Mark The Granular Effervescent Litliia manufactured by The Armstrong Manufacturingr Company of Boston, Mass., always lias the trade mark, as above, on every label and none other is genunie. Our Litliia is the best known and the most popular Lithia preparation in this market and has gained its reputation from kind -words spoken by those who know its value. By use or our Granules you may instantly ]»repare a fresh Carbon- ated Lithia Water that does contain Lithia in « known quantity, and one tliat you will approve as a sparkling, gratifving drauuht. We do vot man- ufacture Lithia Tablets and we believe that a eomi»arison of our granules with any tablets made will convince you of the superiority of our prepara- tion. Call at our ohice and ask for sample bottle. Armstrong Manufacturing Company, 17 Union Street, Boston, Mass. PHELPS PERFECTION Chocolate Chips THE FINEST OF THEM ALL DAINTY DELICATE DELICIOUS NAME ON EVERY CHIP Tliese Chips are for sale on the confectiorery counters operated by The G. W. Armstrong Dining Room & News Co. Trade French Soups, Catsup Boston BaKcd ficans Vienna Sausage Prepared by N ATIONAL DURE pOOD (JO. Absolutely Pure and the Finest that can Possibly be Made. NATIONAL PURE FOOD CO. CINCINNATI. DAILY SERVICE. To Albany, 8 Trains To Buffalo, 8 Trains To Chicag-o, r Trains To Cleveland, . 6 Trains To New York City, . 4 Trains The Points OF nXCELLENCE IN A RAILWAY JOURNEY ARE GOOD ROADBEDS, FAST SCHEDULES, COMFODTABLE COACHES, PALATIAL SLEEPEDS, EFFICIENT DINING CAR SERVICE, AND THESE ARE SOME OF THE POINTS IN WHICH THE BOSTON & ALBANY RAILROAD EXCELS IN ITS TRAIN SERVICE FROAl BOSTON AND THE NEW ENGLAND TERRITORY TO THE WEST, VIA THE Famous Albany Gateway AND THE ^lew York Central Lines PERFECT TRACK, SUPERB SERVICE. For rates, schedules, tickets, etc.. address, A. S. HANSON, G. P. A., J. L WHITE, C. P. A., BOSTON. 366 WASHINGTON ST. RAYMOHTi AND Whit CO MB Tours TICKETS JiNB TOURS EVEIIYWHEIIE Personally conducted Tours to ALJISK^, YELLOUOSTOJ^E PJiRK EUROPE, and MEIV ENGLAND and CANJiBIAN HESORTS During the Summer Season FLORIDA, CUBJi, CJiLIFORNIJi MEXICO, ETC. During the Winter Months Jls JIgents of all the Principal Railroad and Steamship Lines, we can give fuller and more impartial information than other JI gents. We sell tickets inde= pendent of our Tours to Jill Points Send for circulars Sr Traveler's Guide RAYMOND SWHITCOMB CO. 296 Washington St BOSTOM 25 Union Square MELU YORK 1005 Chestnut St. PHILABELPHIJl FOLLOW .K\V\W»v THE FLAG THE WABASH RAILROAD Through Sleeeping Car Line From Boston TO DETROIT, CHICAGO and ST. LOUIS Making close connections for all western points TWO FAST TRAINS DAILY The celebrated " CONTINENTAL LIMITED " leaving Nortlicrn Station, Boston, daily, at 1.00 p.m. is fully vestibuled, with J'ullnian Pal- ace Sleeping Cars for DETROIT, CHICAGO and ST. LOUIS. Pullman Tourist Sleepers for Chicago are attached to this train on Tuesdays and Thursdays Berth only $2.00 to Chicago A fast express leaves Boston at G.19 p.m. (Sundays at 4.S0 r.M.) Vestibuled train, with through sleepers for Detroit, Chicago and St. Louis. .]. IIAMSEY, Jr., G. S. CRANE, President, St. Louis, Mo. G. P. & T. A., St. Louis, :\Io. For further ioformation ,or to reserve sleeping car berths, apply to H. B. McCLELLAN, J. I). M('BEATH,N. E. P. Agt. G. E. Agt., New York. R. II. PANNILL, N. E. Tourist Ajrt. 17() Wasliiugton St., Boston. Abbot-Downing Company Manufacturers of the highest grade of TRANS- PORTATION AND DELIVERY WAGONS of every style^^ Works at Concord, N. H., U.S.A. ESTABLISHED 1S13. NEW YORK OFFICE 1135 BROADWAY Kepair Department 388^400 Atlantic Ave.» Boston, which is complete in all its details, and insures the best quality oF work. We have in stock a large assort= ment of Wagons, Caravans, Etc. Abbot-Downing Company. COACHES, OMNIBUSES, CONCORD BUGGIES, EXPRESS WAGONS, DELIVERY WAGONS, GROCERY WAGONS, FURNITURE WAGONS, DRAYS, CARAVANS, HOSE WAGONS, LADDER TRUCKS, AMBULANCES, STREET SWEEPERS, STREET SPRINKLERS, PATROL WAGONS, TIP CARTS, SLEDS. Origfinators f:: CONCORD COACHES.' CONCORD WAGONS.' of the \ " CONCORD WHEELS. CONCORD AXLES.' Qraystone a Novel By WILLIAM JASPER NICOLLS A story of American life with a clean, strong love interest. Frontispiece Decorated cloth, $1.50 The Magic Wheel a Novel By JOHN STRANGE WINTER A capital story of the occult. Mystery nicely tempered with love. Docorated cloth, $1.25 I T W O E D I T I O N 5 5 O L D MLLE. FOUCHETTE A Novel By CHARLES THEODORE MURRAY $1.50 Illustrated by Richardson, Day, Benson-Kennedy Two c'.ever stories in LlPPlNCOTT'S Series of Select Novels riadame Bohemia By FRANCIS NEILSON Paper, 50 cents A Name to Conjure With By JOHN STRANGE WINTER Paper, 50 cents Publishers, J. B. LIPPINCOTT CO., Philadelphia ATJ DREY By MARY JOHNSTON author of TO HAVE AND TO HOLD "As To Have and To Hold ' surpassed * Prisoners of Hope,' it is surpassed by Audrey." — Boston Advertiser. ' Consummate Art.'" — N'ezu York Titties. SIX COLORED ILLUSTRATIONS BY F. C. YOHN, {$f.50. At all Bookstores and on all trains.) TIouGiiTOiN^, Mifflin & Co. POPULAR FICTION Published by LITTLE, DROWN & CO. Truth Dexter ^ ^ ^ Ji S The Heroine of the Strait ^ ^ By Sidney McCall. The American Society Novel with the Most Lovable Heroine in Modern Fiction. Fifty Thousand Copies Already Sold. $1.50. The God of Things ^ .^ ^ By Florence Brooks Whitehouse. An Entertainins: Story of Modern Egypt, told with skill and grace. Illus- trated. $1.50. By Mary Catherine Crowley. A Vivid Romance of Detroit in the time of the Indian Chief Pontiac, by the author of "A Daughter of New France." Illustrated. $1.50. In the Country God Forgot ^ By Frances Charles. An Engrossing and Unusual Story of the Southwest. Brim full of human nature, and with strongly-drawn char- acters. $1.50. LITTLE, BftOWN 5 CO., BooKsdlers and Publishers 254 WASHINGTON ST., BOSTON NEW ENGLAND REPRESENTATIVES : JOSEPH GAHM Sr SON Imported Kaiser, Pilsner and Pschorr Brau Beers, Deinhart's Rhine and Moselle Wines, French Clarets, Kronthal Mineral Waters, Bass' Ale, Guinness Stout, and Liquors of all grades. Arnold's (Ogdensburg, N. Y ) India Pale Ale, the finest bottled Ale in America. Send for our prices, 125 PURCHASE STREET Telephone 954 Main BOSTON, MASS. Rockhaven The Great Character Novel of the Present By CHAfiLES CLADK MUNN Author of " UNCLE TERRY '* Illustrated by FRANK T. MERRILL Fine laid paper Decorated cover Gilt top Price $1.50 ^ ^ S ^ ^ " The way to reach the people, Parson Bush, is to be one with 'em, and sorter feel thar needs and make 'em feel they're yer own." jess Htitton in ''Rockhaven'' The great and continued demand for the book " Uncle Terry " proved beyond a question that the public rank Charles Clark Munn high among the most popular American novelists, and his position is strengthened by his latest work, "Rockhaven." The plot is strongly conceived and carried out with sustained interest, the situations dramatic, the treatment of nature poetic, and the handling of love passages graceful and tender, American life of to-day, both urban and rural, is better understood by no one than by Charles Clark Munn. There is nothing surprising about the instant and remarkable success of "Rockhaven." The book deserves it. eveux office needs The Correspondent's Manual A PRAXIS FOR STENOGRAPHERS, TYPEWRITER OPERATORS, AND CLERKS By WILLIAM E. HICKOX, Principal of the Hickox Shorthand School, Copley Square, Boston i6mo Cloth 128 Pages Price 50 cents SEND FOR OUR COMPLETE CATALOGUE LEE AND SHEPARD, Publisheds 202 Devonshire Street, BOSTON INVALID SILVER. These two engi-av- ings illustrate the range of our ability to repair and re- store to its original condition, hroken or dented ware which is seemingly useless. HOTEL WORK r- A SPECIALTY. ife Battered Bettered MUNROE & LANE, iNlAKLBUKU lU ILDIXi, Tel. 3958-2 Main. ^•■.ir^^v^^ >i,«^ir»;^^ ii,»^^^^*» B^B ' »^» » ».»*;«^>nt» »x«T«^v»^»^^^* PORTSMOUTH LAVENDER SALTS Revive You 5 when you're faint. * Refresh You f when you're weary. \ Relieve head- \ ache. Soothe the \ nerves. Specially \ designed for trav- j ellers. 5 I^eakage : Impossible. \ ITotice the Cap. ^ Sold by dealers J everywhere and \ by newsboys on all \ railroad trains and » steamship lines. J Price, 25 Cents. \ 403 WASHINGTON STREET. PORTSMOUTH ORRIS CREAM An exquisite external ap- plication for Sunburn, Tan, Freckles, Chapped Hands or Lips, and all roughness of the skin. Ladies will appreciate its refined Orris odor and gentlemen will find it invaluable as an applica- tion after shaving. Price, 50 Cents. PREPARED BY PRESTON OF NEW HAMPSHIRE, PORTSMOUTH, N. H. Ask for rr.'stoii's Medici- nal and Toilet Sjtecialties at lending Sunuuer hotels and resorts. ^OEMA„^ '^edgvkoo" VISITORS TO BOSTON Are invited to inspect our display, occupying seven floors, whicfi cannot be excelled anywtiere. Wholesale and Retail 120 FRANKLIN ST., COR FEDERAL ST. Near General Post Office and Soutti Station. WILLIAM H. HILL. FRED M. SMITH. HILL, SMITH 5; CO., WHOLESALE AND RETAIL STATIONERS, AND BLAHK BOOK MANUFACTURERS, Fine Leather Goods a Specialty. ENGRAVERS, LITHOGRAPHERS, AND PRINTERS. 180 Devonshire St ^°"b'uild,ng°'^'' BOSTOM, Telephone No. 1590 Main. }lewHumorousBooks The following books have just been issued and are having a large sale. They are sold on all trains and by all dealers for 10 cents each. If sent by mail, postpaid by us, 15 cents each. 1 Fun on Drauglit 2 Some Funny Tlungs said by Clever People 3 Five Hundred Merry Laughs 4 Tlie Funny World-100 Illus. 5 Three Huiitlred FunnyStories 6 TwclveHuudred New Riddles 7 Wittv Savings 8 Twentv (iood Stories 9 Tht' ('(imieCoolv 15ook 10 Model Letter Writer 11 Ton of Fun 12 .Tack Kobinson's Yarns 1.3 Gipsy Dream Book and For- tinie Teller 14 Funny Experiences of Mr. and INIrs. Bowser 15 Two Thousand Prize Jokes 23 Bad Boy's Pairy— Part I Bad Boy's Dairy— Part 2 Blunders of a Bashful Man Trials and Troubles of the Bowser Family Ten Funny Stories. By Opie Kead Tie Travels of a Tramp: or, The Victim of His Clothes. Illustrated by Thos. AVortli Widder Doodle's Courtship. BvJosiah Allen's AVife Amateur's Cnide toMauieand Mystery and the Black Art Our "Drummer's Trip Through the Sunny South How to Entertain a Social Party. Neille (ireenway "MORE EX-TANK TALES" By CL^^RENCE LOUIS CULLEN. th introduction by the Author. i2mo. 250 pages. Price, Cloth Bound, $1.00 The very tlattering reception which was given to " Tales of the E.\-Tanks," by the same author, has induced us to issue this work under the above title, and which we have no doubt, will have a large sale. It is printed on the best quality of fine laid paper, and neatly bound in cloth. Sold by all department stores, all book- sellers, on all trains and at depots, or it will be sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of price, $i.oo. 100 MEW HOUSE PLANS for $1.00 We have just issued unJer the title George Palliser's Modern Buildings a new up-to-date book, containing OVER ONE HUNDRED PLANS, all new (1901) of houses ranging in cost from $500 to $20,000; also plans of Public Library Buld- ings. Summer Hotels, Stables, Public Halls, Etc., Etc. This book is a collection of practical designs showing examples of houses re- cently built, and invaluable to every one thinking of building, by reason of their having been, with very few exceptions, planned in the ordinary course of a busy architect's practice during the last few years, and built in various parts of the coun- try within the price given. Full description accompanies each plate, giving sizes, height of stories, how built and finished, and improvements contained, thus giving information of very great value to every one contemplating building, as the plans and designs embody the best thought and most careful study of those erecting them, giving r.al results as I0 cost, and a guide that is safe to follow. These designs ard plans have, therefore, a value that can be fully appreciated for their practical utility and stand alone, as real examples of how some people's homes are planned and what they cost. It contains 115 large pages, size 11 x 14 inches. Price, bound in heavy paper cover, sent by mail, postpaid, $1.00. Bound in cloth, $2.00. Sent bv mail, post- paid, to any address on receipt of price. ADDRESS ALL ORDERS TO J. S. OGILVIE PUBLISHING CO. 58 Rose Street -- - - - - - New York. THE CLYDE STEAMSHIP CO. " New York, Charleston and Florida Line/' " New En§:land and Southern Lines,'' " St. Johns River Service," CHARLESTON, S. C, the SOUTH and SOUTHWEST, JACKSONVILLE, FLA., and all INTERIOR POINTS. From Pier 45 North River, New York. Unsurpassed Passenger Accommodation and Cuisine. New England and Southern Lines. Direct Semi=Weekly Freight and Passenger Service between Boston, Mass. (Lewis Wharf), Charleston, S. C, Brunswick, Ga. and Jacksonville, Fla. PROVIDENCE, NEW YORK, WILMINGTON, and GEORGETOWN LINE. Weekly Freight Service Only. St. Johns River Service between Jacksonville^ Pdlatka, Sanfordy Florida, and Intermediate Landings. G. O. SHELDON, N. E. Agt,, 196 Washington St., Boston. Theo. G. Eger, G. M. W. P. CLYDE & CO., General Agents. 19 State St., NEW YORK. I2 S. Delaware Ave., PHILADELPHIA. MAP DRAVi^ING, KNGRAVING AND PRINTING C. S. HAMMOND ca COMPANY 253 BR.OAD"WAY N E "W YORK M.J.CONANT&CO. COMMISSION DEALERS IN Butter, Cheese, and Eggs, . . . BEANS, POULTRY, ETC. 2J & 22 SO. MARKET STREET, 27 CHATHAM STREET, M. J Conant. T>r\ VT^r\ »r W. S. Vincent ^^^ lUJV. STUBTEVANT & HALEY, Beef an d Supply Co. 38 & 40 FANEUIL HALL MARKET, BOSTON. Oil Polish, Put up in the Brown Jug for house and office use^ is the best on the markets Will soften and pre- serve the Leather* Try it on your Patent or Enamel shoes ; if used as per directions, it will keep them from cracking. Made for all kinds of Black and Russet Shoes* ENDORSED AND SOLD BY Price 25 cts. Holds over tw the regular 25 bottles. THE G. W. ARMSTRONG DINING ROOM & NEWS. CO. and used on their polishing: stands. MANUFACTURED ONLY BY ALDEN T. CLEVELAND, - Hyde ParK, Mas5. X The TwltchelUChampVin Company ^==^ BOSTON HOUSE 71 & 73 Commercial Street CANNED GOODS PACKERS PORLANB, MAINE and BOSTON, MASS. Portland Telephone, 109 Portland Boston Telephone, 108 Richmond ^factories HIRAM, WALDOBORO, SEDGWICK AND PORTLAND, ME. WALCOTT, N. Y. For Tired Travelers THERE IS NOTHING AS GOOD AS A GLASS OR TWO OF DELICIOUS.*. MOXIE IT NOURISHES AND STRENGTHENS THE NERVES AND GIVES DOUBLE POWERS OF ENDURANCE WITHOUT STIMULA- TION OR REACTION .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. SOLD EVERYWHERE Look for a "MOXIE" sign when you are tired and thirsty |JEL. to cat. D!V. MV 11 1902 2)i6tinctive FOR THEIR Our Fancy Packages Unquestions ably the Finest. Superior (Slualit? 78 'ii w ^ ^"^ ^\^^ -^-s^ ^^"•« V"<1 ^;^ V ^^ M: ■^;v..< °^.- N^ >^^ ^ m ^''^ 5S^ - .^^\ -S. <^>. ^^ • ' .'!." 0^ s" ■---^^ °^ .^ '' ^ot? 0°' :'4V^_ H/' '>^^.' '^oM/h,' o ti o • -0 Vi -^ •5^^ 1 # • J"" .^" c '^^^ JAN 'O WcT N MANCHESTER. INDIANA lJ5: "" ' ■' -v LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 065 603 3