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Special Lessons Compiled by Emily Lloyd 
 
 For the National School of Cosmeticians 
 
 Copyright 1920 
 Marinello Co., Chicago 
 
 Foundations for Hairdressing. 
 Middle Part Low. 
 
 Pompadour Extreme High and Medium Ties. 
 Side Part Medium Tie. 
 
 The Round Curl. 
 
 Foundation for Adjustment of Inside Trans- 
 formation. 
 
 Water Waving. 
 
 Natural Wave — A La Elsie Ferguson. 
 
 Subject Showing Natural Wave — Water Wave. 
 
 Water Dressed Transformation. 
 
 Hair Dress with Short and Not Heavy Hair. 
 
 Describing the Proper Method of Parting and 
 
 Combing the Hair to Make Dips. 
 Youthful Coiffure. 
 
 A Youthful Coiffure for Waved or Curled Hair. 
 Directions on the Proper Method of Dressing 
 
 Switches in Long Curls, or Even Hair Upon the 
 
 Head in the Same Way. 
 Up-to-date Coiffure for Natural, Marcel Waved or 
 
 Permanently Waved Hair. 
 A Popular Style of Hair Dress for Curled Hair. 
 The Popular French Roll. 
 Bobbed Hairdress— Mature. 
 Bobbed Hairdress for Extreme Youth. 
 Bobbed (Youthful) Cut. 
 Bobbed Hairdress Made of Extra Hair. 
 How to Marcel Wave, 
 
 Using Marcel Electric Iron. 
 
 Marcel Waving. 
 
 Simple Instructions for Marcel Waving. 
 
 Vernon and La Belle Waves. 
 
 One Transformation. 
 
 Extreme Pompadour Hair Dress, 
 Styles now being shown in England. 
 
 La May Hairdress. 
 French Roll. 
 
 Fancy Evening Hairdress. 
 Foundation for Bob Hairdress. 
 Double Puff Bob Hairdress. 
 Fan Hairdress. 
 Plain Facial. 
 Rest Facial. 
 Muscle Strapping. 
 Tired Eye Massage. 
 Coarse Pore Astringent. 
 Dry Skin Astringent. 
 Acne Treatment. 
 Methine Treatment. 
 Bleach Mask. 
 
 Milk Bleaching Treatment. 
 Marinello Wrinkle Mask. 
 Scalp Massage. 
 Oily Scalp. 
 Hot Oil Treatment. 
 ' Treatment of the Nails. 
 Foot Massage. 
 The Alternating Foot Bath. 
 Hydrotherapy Bath. 
 
©CI.A565354 
 
 
 V 
 
 MAR -8 1920 
 
 V 
 
 
Foundations for Hairdressing 
 
 MIDDLE PART LOW 
 
 To give an explanation of foundations for hair- 
 dressing requires considerable knowledge of the 
 necessity for good foundation work and in consider- 
 ing hairdressing it is absolutely necessary to have 
 the foundation well made and comfortable. It is 
 very necessary to have it good and firm for if the 
 hairdress does not feel solid and comfortable to the 
 patron she will not want it dressed again. That is 
 one reason why the large number of people who 
 have never been to a hairdresser feel so uncom- 
 fortable when they go. They can put their own 
 hair up to feel much more solid and much more 
 comfortable than can the person who dresses it for 
 them. 
 
 It doesn't matter how pretty or how becoming 
 the hair is dressed, if it is not firm and comfortable 
 they will not be comfortable in it, and if it feels 
 loose and as if it were ready to slide down the 
 patron will object to keeping it up. Therefore, 
 the first general idea to have in mind is a proper 
 foundation and when you have that the- next gen- 
 eral idea is the style of the dressing for what is to 
 be the finished outward appearance will be deter- 
 mined by the foundation used. If it is to be low, 
 high or medium — the foundation must be made ac- 
 cordingly. All outward finished coiffures change 
 with the fad or fashion — or even the mode of dress 
 or the millinery, but the foundation is practically 
 the same varying only in the way it is parted or 
 the manner in which a foundation is rolled — so a 
 few general ideas on foundation work will suffice 
 to give you an understanding of this art so that 
 it can be used by altering it, varying it or expanding 
 
 v=»4^ 
 
 it to cover almost any kind or condition of coiffure. 
 
 Now considering the low hairdress; if it is a 
 small knot to be used to fill in at the center at the 
 nape of the neck or to be spread out filling in back 
 of the head or behind the ears, or to be a psyche or 
 in fact any other position, as long as it is to be a 
 low hairdress it is only necessary to know what the 
 general construction should be in order to produce 
 that proper finished appearance that adds so much 
 to the charm of a well-groomed head and which if 
 not there detracts from it. 
 
 In all low hairdressing the foundation work is 
 the same. Parting from the center front to the 
 crown of the head in the instance of the middle 
 part — from the crown of the head to an inch or an 
 inch and a half behind the ears or more if there 
 does not seem to be enough hair left behind the 
 ears to fill in well, when the finished dressing is 
 done. That portion that remains at the back of the 
 head is tied off in a low tie. The hair is then 
 waved on either side of the front part and over the 
 ears and whether it is a Marcel Wave or a Round 
 Curl that is used in either instance the hair is waved 
 behind the ears to fall in with the line over the ears 
 and at the side of the head. This then when it is 
 dressed, fills in that vacant space from the ear to 
 the nape of the neck, which is so often left by the 
 amateur in putting up the hair, leaving a finished, 
 well rounded, filled out appearance behind the ears. 
 
 Where the neck is thin and the hair line is broken 
 at the back of the neck, this is an added incentive 
 to cover it up. 
 
 Figure 1 is an excellent example of the hair tied iow with the middle part. 
 
[Foun d ations of Hairdressing. — Cont. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 Figure 2 shows a side view of this same tie with 
 the front top parted off so as to show how the front 
 waves may be combed and placed in position and 
 the two side parts made and placed in position — 
 only drawing them back and combing and pinning 
 them in so as to arrange the dip as best suits the 
 features. The ends of these strands may be tucked 
 under or may be rolled in a flat knot just above 
 
 the tie in the low tie position, or a foundation for 
 the coil which the strand that has been tied at the 
 nape of the neck will be used for. This coil can 
 then be rolled into a soft flat knot, coiled with the 
 single, double or triple coil or divided and a flat, 
 biscuit-like knot made. In any instance any of 
 them are becoming. This is the simplest form of 
 hairdressing for the low coiffure. 
 
Pompadour Extreme High and Medium Ties 
 
 In figures 1 and 2 in this drawing we have made 
 the Pompadour with extreme high tie and with the 
 medium tie, showing the hair parted off a distance, 
 or from four to six inches from the forehead de- 
 pending upon, of course, the width of the forehead 
 and the distance from the hair line in front to the 
 crown of the head — leaving enough hair in front 
 for the pompadour, parting off over the ears, above 
 the ears from an inch and a half and about the 
 same depth from the nape of the neck, leaving hair 
 all around the head to wave. The hair then can 
 be combed and tied into a medium tie. In some 
 instances you may leave the circle of hair around 
 the back of the neck two inches deep. The combing 
 of the center part or the switch end of the hair high 
 to the crown of the heat' and tying it firmly with a 
 string or strand of hair will give you the hair neces- 
 sary for the coil or puff or if the hair is not very 
 heavy the foundation that is necessary for proper 
 construction — whether you are to add a switch or 
 any additional hair. 
 
 Where there is to be any dressing with the back 
 of the head shown curled and no coils covering it. 
 vnu should always leave a circle of hair to wave and 
 bring up. This fills out the back of the head, giving 
 it a very good contour. The same method should 
 be followed in making a foundation for the medium 
 hairdress as the back of the hair is nearly always 
 shown more or less in this same style of hairdri 
 ing. Of course, with a low hairdressing the hair 
 is parted from the crown of the head to about tine.' 
 inches back of the ears and then tying the switch 
 or haii' very low on the nape of the neck it does not 
 leave the back of the head to show, but as shown 
 
 if? 
 
 M0f 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
 in figures 1 and 2 the drawing indicates the position 
 of the tie. 
 
 Then if the hair is to be parted after it is waved 
 for the pompadour, it is parted from temple to 
 temple — that means, from the crown of the head or 
 from the tie where the hair has been parted off, 
 it is parted on either side of the forehead from 
 temple to temple and that portion is dressed to 
 make a pompadour, the side-; being brought up and 
 the back being broughl up into position, the ends 
 tucked under, and the entire finished coiffure is pres- 
 The switch end of the hair may then be used 
 for finishing of the coils or any other structure that 
 may be necessary or desired to make this a beaut i 
 ful line and give the right expression to the subject 
 who is to wear it. 
 
 The best way to dress a pompadour style is to 
 do either side first and your center part next and 
 back last — and in any instance do not be afraid to 
 comb the hair well as it gives a softer and more 
 natural look to the hair and takes away the dressy 
 appearance that is so much disliked. If the wave 
 is put in well there is no danger of combing it out 
 and in combing it constantly if one is dexterous and 
 adapted to this work they can comb a wave in even 
 when it appears to have been lost through careless 
 dressing or because it is some time since the wave 
 has been put in. Do not be afraid of spoiling the 
 wave by combing it. 
 
 If the hair has not been freshly shampooed and 
 is oily of course, one will have to work accordingly 
 as oils' hair does not hold the wave as well. 
 
Side Part Medium Tie 
 
 In figures 1 and 2 we have the side part with a 
 medium tie — figure 1 showing the side part of 
 foundation work — figure 2, showing the side part 
 with the medium tie and the side parted off for 
 dressing. In the instance of the side part with the 
 medium tie, the hair is parted around from the 
 crown of the head according to the figure in 
 drawing 1 and the side part is made from the 
 center side of the head either to the right or the 
 left side, usually using the side where the hair is 
 thickest, but in the instance of a cowlick or a 
 peculiarity of growth on either side of the head, 
 this has to be taken into consideration, as either 
 
 gracefully over the upper portion of the ear or com- 
 pletely cover it if desired and fall gracefully down 
 at hack of the neck so as to cover the line where 
 the hair has been combed up entirely. In this figure 
 j you will see we have not left any fringe of hair 
 around the back of the head to cover up the un- 
 waved portion. Therefore, it is necessary for you 
 to wave this strand of hair down to the end and use 
 it to cover up that portion of the head at the back of 
 the neck which looks uncurled and does not leave a 
 graceful and attractive line. 
 
 In dressing the parting of either side or center 
 hairdress, it is best to comb the top piece down, that 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
 the side part or the middle part where there is such 
 a formation present will have to be parted accord- 
 ing to the growth of this hair. In the instance of 
 the side part with the medium tie, the hair is tied 
 medium high on the head and the switch end of the 
 hair left hanging so as to be there for arranging 
 either the knot at the back or to coil into coils. 
 
 In figure 2, we have the side part showing the 
 hair waved ready to be dressed. Parting it from 
 a little below the eye line and slightly above the ear 
 line, the upper part of the hair is so waved that the 
 dips will come in graceful position over the temple 
 and at the corner of the eye. The lower part of the 
 hair has been waved so that the last dip will fall 
 
 means, the front of either the left or right side or 
 both down into position and pin them in place be- 
 for the sides are put up. It gives a better line and 
 more youthful appearance to the face. When the 
 hair is low over the ears it is better to comb the 
 side pieces down first and bring the top pieces over 
 the ears and finish the hair by pinning and placing 
 them into position. 
 
 However this means almost straight lines from 
 the center part down to the lobe of the ear. If the 
 hair is dressed in this fashion, it means that it must 
 be broken by pins or ribbon or something of that 
 sort and only the most classic feature can wear it 
 this way. Everyone is looking for the more youth- 
 
Side Part Medium Tie— Cont. 
 
 ful appearance and we must be very careful not to 
 give an "old lady" appearance. 
 
 In making a part in the hair, the hair should be 
 first combed straight back from the face, then using 
 the fine-toothed end of the comb, find the center of 
 the forehead by running the comb just between the . 
 eyes, holding it rather flat to the scalp and combing 
 through if it is to be the center part or if the side 
 parting is desired, as stated before, the parting 
 should be made about the center of either the right 
 or the left eye — rarely ever as low as the temple 
 because there are few people who can wear that def- 
 inite straight line which is a very boyish appear- 
 ance across from temple to temple. The left side is 
 usually considered the correct side for parting, how- 
 ever, when you do not have to take into considera- 
 tion peculiarities of growth of hair around the face 
 or an extra heavy or an extra thin side to the hair. 
 
 One expert hairdresser has said that in putting 
 the hair pins in the hair it should be done so that 
 when the dressing is finished very few pins will 
 show. A professional hairdresser does not use very 
 many pins — they may use many in putting the hair 
 up in construction but they will pull out all the long 
 heavy pins when it is finished, for hairpins add to 
 the false and hairdressed effect and that is not what 
 is desired. 
 
 It will be found, however, that pinching the pins 
 and bringing the two points close together and in- 
 serting them in the hair in this nearly closed posi- 
 tion make a much more solid pinning. Pinning the 
 hairpins into the hair should be much the same 
 as pinning a safety pin into a garment of a baby — 
 with the idea of never allowing the point to touch 
 the skin, but pinning it in and through so it will 
 hold. 
 
 Then, too, there are some people that do not look 
 as well with the hair parted on the left side as they 
 do on the right. All partings should be considered 
 from the standpoint of the appearance and what the 
 finished coiffure will look like. 
 
 Now, these general rides for making a founda- 
 tion can be followed very closely. Even if one is 
 not an artist in arranging the hair, they can at least 
 put it up so that it is firm, solid and neat looking 
 in appearance and will please. In the finished hair- 
 dress care should be taken not to leave the hair 
 looking as though it had been dressed in. sections. 
 After every section has been laid down or every 
 strand has been pinned into position, see that the 
 h \is combed through so that each part meets and 
 U way an even wave is the finished appearance 
 jnd the head. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 When the small, or invisible hairpins, are used 
 to keep on nets or to pin in stray locks, one end of 
 the hairpin may be turned back or crooked in a 
 semi-bent condition so that the pin will stay and 
 hold the net or the hair very firmly in place, and if 
 care is taken to straighten these out before remov- 
 ing them no damage to the net is affected and 
 neither is the hair pulled or any discomfort as a 
 result. 
 
 Very often the effect of a beautiful hairdress 
 is entirely spoiled by the incorrect placing of 
 hair ornaments, combs or pins. A variety of 
 ornaments or pins in one hairdress is never per- 
 missable. One good looking comb or pin, one pretty 
 band or one unusual aigrette or feather adds much 
 to the finished hairdress. but never more than one — 
 always of the best and latest mode. 
 
The Round Curl 
 
 Round Curling will always be popular, as to 
 some people it is very much more becoming than 
 the Marcel Wave. However, there are round curls 
 and round curls and many hairdressers fail to real- 
 ize the necessity for the care that should be exer- 
 cised in producing just the right kind of a round 
 curl. For this reason our directions are very ex- 
 plicit and our illustrations prepared with the great- 
 est care. 
 
 The secret of a round curl lies in the regularity 
 of the parts both as to parting if off and as to the 
 strands placed upon the curling iron, for if an equal 
 amount of hair is used in each strand the wave will 
 come out uniform. Also when the hair is wound 
 around the curling iron it should be wound around 
 evenly, not leaving space between each coil and as 
 the hair slips through the fingers the natural twist- 
 ing of the hair should be augmented by a little 
 additional twisting for this is a helpful movement 
 in the curl. If the parts are kept straight the 
 strands are kept about equal weight and if they 
 have been placed upon the curling iron evenly, the 
 round curl will come out as beautiful and regular as 
 a natural undulation. 
 
 is usually so prominent when the knot is dressed 
 low on the head unless there is some curled. 
 
 FfGURE-I 
 
 For curling the hair with the round curl where 
 hair is to be dressed straight back off the forehead 
 and the hair is to be combed up from the ears, 
 figure 1 shows the front hair parted off with the 
 back tied in strands. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 Figure 2 shows it divided in sections as it would 
 be under ordinary circumstances when there was 
 not a heavy growth of hair. Three strands on either 
 side and three from temple to temple, two or three 
 rows of strands divided in this way will probably 
 take up all the hair that has been parted off from 
 the crown of the head down to a little behind the 
 ears. It is always wise to take off in this parting 
 a small amount of hair behind the ears to curl so 
 that when the hair is dressed the curled portion will 
 have covered that straight part of the hair which 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
 Figure 3 shows the position of the iron at the 
 side of the head when the sides are to be curled and 
 combed back from the ears. 
 
 Fig. 4 
 
 Figure 4 shows the position of the iron when the 
 center section is to be combed back from the center 
 of the forehead. The iron can be held in the left 
 or right hand, whichever is more convenient but 
 to make the curl close to the head it is necessary 
 to bring the hair down toward the face, placing the 
 iron as close to the head as possible. To curl the 
 hair for the straight back hairdress when dips over 
 the ears are required, follow the position of the iron 
 in figures 3 and 4. 
 
 As in figures 3 and 4. showing the iron held in a 
 horizontal position, and the hair curled back from 
 the face for the center parts and the iron held in a 
 horizontal position and the hair wound around the 
 iron downward. 
 
 When this is combed out it will be plainly seen 
 that the center section from temple to temple will 
 wave back and the sides will form horizontal waves 
 that will fall in with the other wave and at the 
 same time form dips over the ears. This is a very 
 
The Round Curl— Cont. 
 
 :asy way for arranging the Castle Bob or Bun 
 lairdress over the ears. Where the round curling 
 s desired for center or side part and the hair is to 
 >e combed back from the cars, the hair should be 
 livided as in figure 5, arranging for the part on 
 it her the left or the right side or in the center and 
 f on the side, making two rows of three strands 
 ach on the side that has the least hair and three 
 
 ir four rows of three strands each on the side that 
 las the greatest quantity of hair. Then from the 
 iart to the temple on either side the hair should be 
 /rapped around the iron as in figure 6, holding 
 lie iron in this position on either side of the part. 
 
 Fig. 7 
 
 Figure 7 shows the inm in the proper position 
 dth the hair wrapped around so that when the 
 ■ave is finished it may be brought back and combed 
 p from the ears. 
 
 Where the curl is to be arranged for center or 
 ide part and be dressed with dips over the ears, 
 :ie hair is parted from the center or side part with 
 wo or three rows of three sections each on the 
 ide where the least hair is or if it is a center part 
 art evenly from the temple as in figure X, on down 
 
 Fig. 8 
 
 until all of the hair on either side of the head has 
 been parted and curled as in figure 9, the iron held in 
 
 Fig. 9 
 
 a position parallel with the part all the way down on 
 both sides of the head. 
 
 JfeM 
 
 Fig. 10 
 
 These instructions carried out will give you a 
 finished curl that when combed out will look as 
 figure 10 here displayed. 
 
Foundation for Adjustment of Inside Transformation 
 
 The inside Transformation should be of a suffi- 
 cient quantity of hair mounted on a weft and long 
 enough to reach around the head to provide fullness 
 where the hair is scant. 
 
 
 w>Jb* » 
 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 The inside transformation should match the 
 shade and quality of the hair on the head perfectly 
 and should be of natural waving hair as it can then 
 be properly water dressed and kept in a much 
 more satisfactory condition. 
 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
 Sometimes these are only desired for fullness 
 around the face. They are then only made long 
 enough to reach from ear to ear. 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
 The foundation for attaching Inside Transfor- 
 mation to head is arranged as follows: 
 
 Part the hair off around crown of head as in 
 figure 1, tying switch end high, low or medium on 
 head as desired, leaving a fringe around entire head 
 or just from ear to ear as fullness of the finished 
 coiffure requires it. Then roughing the fringe of 
 the hair, or in other words combing it back, the 
 inside transformation is pinned into position with 
 short hairpins, front over the ears and back of 
 head — then roughing the transformation, the entire 
 hairdress can be adjusted. 
 
 It is easier and better for the hairdresser to put 
 up first one side and then the other and then the 
 front before trying to adjust the back as this en- 
 ables the hairdresser to use the ends for tucking in 
 or foundation for coil. 
 
Water Waving 
 
 When the hair is naturally curly, and lays in 
 graceful loose waves — to use the hot iron or Mar- 
 cel Wave it would be disastrous both to the natural 
 curl and to the general appearance — for most peo- 
 ple with naturally curly hair do not look well with 
 their hair dressed in any other way than the way 
 it naturally waves. 
 
 It is advised then in all instances to give what 
 is known as a Water Wave. That means, to lay 
 the wave in with water and combs, drying it thor- 
 oughly and then removing the combs until it has a 
 shampoo again. This can be done for either very 
 curly hair or for hair that has any tendency to wave 
 at all, but it is not satisfactory when put into ab- 
 solutely straight hair. It really is a means of 
 encouraging the wave to lay more gracefully and in 
 
 separate combs are to be used, the drawing indi- 
 cating the separate combs placed around over the 
 forehead and back will give a very good idea of 
 how this line is arranged. 
 
 Marinello Wave Tight diluted with water gives 
 the hair body and sets the wave until perfectly dry. 
 Should be used always with a Water Wave, also 
 Brilliantine if the hair is dry and needs a gloss, 
 softens the hair and helps to keep the wave in. 
 Apply Brilliantine before the hair is moistened with 
 water. Moisten the hair only on the surface as too 
 much water makes the hair stiff and it takes too 
 long to dry. 
 
 The finished hairdress in both instances shows 
 hbw beautifully this line adds to the structure of 
 the hairdress and also to the position of the wave. 
 
 IwU^ 
 
 its proper place. The hair is combed back thor- 
 oughly after it has been moistened with water to 
 which has been added any one of the fluids known 
 as Wave Tight, or any of the other preparations 
 used for holding in the wave. The hair must be 
 combed very thoroughly but only on surface. If 
 
 
 3fe 
 
 It takes some little practice and application to 
 become skillful with the combs but after it is once 
 mastered, it is really an art in itself and should be 
 
Water Waving — Cont. 
 
 acquired by all who have any desire to become pro- 
 ficient in hairdressing. The coil at the back of the 
 loose puff brought into position above the coil gives 
 a beautiful finish to a very natural and very attract- 
 ive headdress for either young or middle aged 
 women. The tendency to puff the hair at the ears, 
 of course, is mure youthful and iliis line may be 
 changed and enhance the maturity of the appear- 
 ance by drawing it tighter at the sides of the head, 
 but in any instance, the loose natural wave has not 
 been affected but has been improved. 
 
Natural Wave — A La Elsie Ferguson 
 
 Elsie Ferguson has made popular a style of hair- 
 clress that can be used for almost any features by 
 changing or altering; the lines slightly because it 
 is quite commonly known when the forehead and 
 the temples are covered and the ears are disguised 
 
 ' ; '■&. fir «5i t£& «, ? 
 
 by waves or puffs the general contour of the back 
 
 of the coiffure can be changed to suit the demand. 
 
 In this instance, however, we have a head of 
 
 naturally curly hair dressed A la Elsie Ferguson. 
 
 To describe the foundation — after the hair has 
 been combed thoroughly all the way through and 
 the wave had been laid in with water waving combs, 
 part it a little below the temple on either side of the 
 crown of the head. This part of the hair is laid 
 back over the face out of the way. Then, parting 
 from the crown of the head to a little above the 
 ears, we have both the right and the left side parts. 
 i In back of tlie Structure is to be made of the l>al 
 ance of the hair which has been left after this 
 parting- has been done, combing the hair up in posi- 
 tion and either tying it or pinning it in a smooth 
 and soft roll fashion -first the right and then the 
 left side by roughening and laying into position, 
 bringing them down low over the ears to accentuate 
 the extreme puff so popular at this time. 
 
 The top of the hair is then brought up from the 
 fare, roughed and spread into position, tucking the 
 ends under and a large comb may be placed there 
 or just free and full as Miss Ferguson wears hers. 
 
 This, of course, is very much prettier in hair of 
 medium length and fair quantity for where the hair 
 is extremely thin or very long you have too much 
 hair to dispose of and you will have by far too large 
 a puff and an exaggerated puff is better left out of 
 the picture. 
 
Subject Showing Natural Wave — Water Wave 
 
 A natural, curly hair subject was also used for 
 these two drawings, showing how the extreme high 
 hairdress is coming back into fashion. In this 
 structure we have a fairly heavy head of hair, natur- 
 ally curly of medium length which has been parted 
 
 from the temple to the crown of the head, showing 
 the line for the extreme coil. Then have the right 
 and the left side showing the right side brought 
 up into the position and the ends of the hair tucked 
 under and pinned. The left side front is brought 
 up smoothly and roughed under the puff before 
 being pinned in a diagonal wave so as to indicate 
 a wrapping at the back of the head. The center 
 puff is then coiled and placed in position and you 
 have the finished hairdress as is described in the 
 drawing indicated. 
 
 If the side part or the middle part is to be used in 
 connection with this same structure, the same lines 
 may be employed excepting that the hair is parted 
 in the center and the hair to be used for the puff is 
 
 tied off at the crown of the head and left there in 
 that position until the right and the left side have 
 been brought up and laid into position and then 
 the puffs car be made and drawn over the whole. 
 
Water Dressed Transformation 
 
 To many people the use of extra hair has become 
 as necessary as the use of an extra top coat for in- 
 clement weather — at least the extra hair should be 
 held in reserve. Properly dressed and kept clean 
 to cover the hair when it is necessary to give it a 
 rest as well as to wear for all times and occasions 
 when the hair on the head is not up to normal 
 growth or natural and becoming in appearance. 
 
 Many people are suffering from a very disheveled 
 and otherwise ill kept appearance simply because 
 
 
 <#, 
 
 '% 
 
 
 
 km 
 
 «r 
 
 the hair has not been properly cand for or they 
 cannot with case dress il to took becoming, and 
 many people are unforunately the uncohscious suf- 
 ferers from very shabby appearances because they 
 are not especially qualified to put up their own hair. 
 This is particularly the case with many busini 
 women who would otherwise look very attractive 
 and make a much better first appearance as well 
 as a very much better lasting appearance if they 
 wore well adjusted and properly cared for extra 
 pieces. 
 
 In the Ventilated Front Transformation we have 
 just such a piece as this. 
 
 The Ventilated Transformation may be an all 
 around extra piece or just a half transformation. 
 In any event if it is properly made to fit the general 
 contour of the face and head it can be adjusted 
 without having the false appearance that most peo- 
 ple object to and in fact the hairdresser objects to 
 it quite as much as any one. 
 
 
 
 %t, 
 
 -si((at( 
 
 //if 
 
 First, however, we must consider the proper po- 
 sition for the hair and as has been described be- 
 fore, the hair should be combed smoothly back. 
 either wound into a soft flat coil if there is little 
 hair or if there is very much of it and it is very 
 long, part it straight from the center of the fore- 
 head hack down to the base of the neck and braid 
 it smooth and flat and wind around the head. 
 
 This then should be pinned into position so that 
 it would remain snug and would not work loose 
 under the extra hair. The transformation then 
 properly adjusted is put on, allowing the extra 
 strands around the ears to fall full over the ears and 
 well down on the back of the neck. Combing the 
 waves of the transformation into position is only a 
 matter for a few minutes for a practiced hand and 
 very soon people begin to learn to adjust these 
 themselves when they begin to wear them. 
 
 The ends of the transformation may be placed 
 in position from the front and pinned down before 
 the back and sides are brought up or the back and 
 sides may be brought up first and the front brought 
 hack later. Also a little roughing under the sides to 
 give fullness over the ears and the same around the 
 front to give the fullness at the temples and over 
 the crown of the head is very satisfactory. If an 
 extra apostiche of some nature is desired, curls may 
 be employed as in this picture with excellent results, 
 for this gives a soft finished appearance and when 
 they are matched up well with the transformation 
 — add to it — taking away that plainness that some 
 people do not like. 
 
Water Dressed Transformation— Cont. 
 
 ifea 
 
 -m 
 
 
 &3 
 
 In the instance of wearing a transformation or 
 anj extra pieces, it is always wise to have two. 
 Then there is an Opportunity to have one cleaned 
 and water dressed while the other is being worn 
 and you are always in readiness to appear at your 
 best. The best quality of hair and made on the 
 best quality of lace makes a light weight, easily 
 adjusted extra piece of hair that can be worn by 
 anybody without discomfort and with a great deal 
 of ease. Especially is this effective and will be 
 
 found to be not only a very comfortable arrange- 
 ment but a very practical arrangement for women 
 who are in public life, traveling- or otherwise, and 
 who have to make the very most of their appear- 
 ance. 
 
Describing the Proper Method of Parting and Combing 
 
 the Hair to Make Dips 
 
 These may be described as the usual dips that 
 would be used outside of the bobbed hairdress. 
 Part the hair as shown in figure 1 and curl the hair 
 
 LEFT 
 
 SEC 2 
 
 FIGURE I 
 
 as described in side part, round curling for the 
 hair to be combed down for dips over the ears. 
 When the hair has been curled hold the hair as 
 shown in fiirure 2. 
 
 FIGURE-H 
 
 After the curl has been combed out and holding 
 the hair in the left hand rough it gently with the 
 fine part of the comb on the under side so as to 
 come through with the rough and destroy the wave 
 on the top of the strand, putting the comb in the 
 first wave and pulling it down in front of the ear 
 as shown in figure 3. Lay this close to the ear 
 and pin into position with large pins which may 
 be removed after the net has been placed on the 
 head and the strand is held with the net. 
 
 Figure 4 shows the hands and comb in position. 
 When standing at the right side of the patron it is 
 easier to make a dip on the left side and to pull 
 
 FtGURE-m 
 
 this dip into position than it is to stand at the 
 side of the head which you are dressing. 
 
 The proper way to rough the hair can best be 
 described by saying that to every strand of hair 
 there is a top and under side, the top side of the 
 hair being the one which you are going to use for 
 the outside of your strand or coil or puff. This must 
 
 LEFT 
 
 RIGHT 
 
 be smooth, and every hair lay in its proper place, 
 therefore, holding the hair at the very ends with 
 the left hand, the hair should be combed out very 
 even and straight. 
 
 < hilv the tine part of the comb should be used 
 for roughing and starting near the top of the 
 strand close to the head, the side which is to be 
 the inside of your coil or puff or the under side of 
 your strand to be laid back, you rough the hair by 
 back-combing with a long back stroke every inch 
 or two to the end of the hair, never roughing over 
 and over again for this is injurious. 
 
 When properly roughed the hair is not injured 
 by so doing. 
 
Hair Dress With Short and Not Heavy Hair 
 
 Practically every hairdresser has been called upon 
 at some time to dress a head of quite short hair, and 
 not very heavy, in an attractive and well groomed 
 way, and thus give a finished appearance to what 
 would otherwise look like a very disheveled head. 
 
 
 
 This is a drawing which indicates the style that 
 may be used in this instance. Parting the hair 
 off at the crown of the head i dicating the fore- 
 ward part which is to be waved and leaving the 
 sides each with a strand to draw back over the 
 ears. The center tying is low at the neck and is 
 indicated by a -finished puff with two coil strands 
 at either side and high Spanish comb which is so 
 popular and so much in vogue at the present time. 
 
 In case the hair was too short after curling and 
 tying to be made use of for the coils and the puff 
 at the back, the entire arrangement can be made 
 just as is shown here in the drawing by taking the 
 ends of the hair on the head, rolling it into a flat 
 knot and pinning it close; a piece of extra hair 
 in the shape of a three strand switch can be em- 
 ployed — this by attaching the center strand to the 
 knot just made and using one strand on either side 
 of the center and coiling the left and right strands. 
 This would have the same appearance that the 
 drawing shows with the hair indicated as growing 
 on the head. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
Youthful Coiffure 
 
 This coiffure may be used for a girl anywhere up and pinned into position allowing the pins to 
 
 from thirteen, fourteen or twenty odd years if hold tight to the under side but not appear in 
 
 she is extremely young and youthful looking. The the finished hairdress. 
 hair is parted on the left side front around the 
 
 crown of the head just as though you were going x^^^^^s 
 
 to dress it for a child's bobbed hairdress. This i^c^*^^ 
 top section is waved to form a dip. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 The hair around the back of the head and over 
 the ears is then waved carefully so as to form uni- 
 form rows and the top puff is roughed and rolled 
 into position and pinned down as shown in figures 
 1 and 2. 
 
 A net placed over the hair will keep the hair 
 up and give the finished appearance as shown in 
 figure 3. 
 
 A row of false bangs may be slipped under or 
 the hair on the head banged and slightly waved 
 so as to take away the stiff appearance of straight 
 bangs. The long hair is also roughed and rolled 
 
 Fiff. 4 
 
 vssB&a 
 
 
 Fis:. 5 
 
A Youthful Coiffure for Waved or Curled Hair 
 
 Nothing is more difficult to achieve than the fin- 
 ished effect of a truly girlish coiffure that at the 
 same time carries with it a distinctive style. 
 
 Type, complexion and abundance of hair, all 
 have to be considered. If the hair seems brittle 
 and dry, the modern hairdresser states firmly : 
 "Mademoiselle, I do not think it advisable to wave 
 your hair frequently. I shall advise a series of hot 
 oil treatments and I shall ask you to use some of 
 the extra hair in the meantime." 
 
 The wise young girl invariably consents to the 
 process as she knows it means prolonged hair 
 health. 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
 In figure 1. however, we show a coiffure that was 
 made entirely of the young woman's hair excepting 
 in the back where an extra piece was used because 
 the hair was too short to coil. It will be noticed 
 that in this instance the hair is brought back loosely 
 without a part and that the whole effect consists in 
 the beauty of the wave, which is so put in that it 
 brings the dips just where they should be, low on 
 the forehead and very far over on the cheek. 
 
 In the back there are several methods to choose 
 from. One consists of a series of puffs, another in 
 the loose knot and still another in the La Belle 
 Wave. 
 
 In any event the arrangements must be very low. 
 The effect is charming. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 In figure 2 the hair at the side of the head was 
 rather thin so a part was made in the hair waved 
 straight back and then down at the sides. The 
 front hair was combed forward and the Vernon ear 
 pieces put in and attached, brought forward over 
 the cheeks and fastened in the back and then the 
 pompadour brought back' over this so that the 
 waves could not be detected. In the back the 
 arrangement was completed as shown in figure 3 by 
 the use of the soft loose coil. 
 
 The jeweled pin thrust in carelessly at the nape 
 of the neck serves to add quite a bit of distinction 
 to the coiffure. 
 
 The back of the headdress shown in this illustra- 
 tion is so simple that any novice cm accomplish it, 
 as it merely consists of a soft, loose coil finished at 
 one side by thrusting the pin through to keep the 
 hair in place. 
 
 Another very girlish and must attractive arrange- 
 ment is devised for the young woman whose prom- 
 inent and rather heavy features make the straight 
 back pompadour unadvisable. Here the hair is 
 waved from one side back and then down the other 
 side but it is not parted at all except for the under- 
 neath portion where the Vernon Wave is used. 
 

 A Youthful Coiffure for Waved or Curled Hair— Cont. 
 
 After the Vernon has been pinned in place, the 
 other hair is dipped low over the forehead and 
 brought back and finished by some soft puffs, run- 
 ning up and down and thus cutting off the length of 
 the head and nock. 
 
 A coiffure of this, sort softens and is becoming to 
 a great majority of the people. 
 
 In further discussion of these girlish headdresses, 
 it must be impressed upon the amateur hairdresser 
 
 that a well made head dress is always smooth and 
 finished in appearance. The wave is always combed 
 Out well and then often combed back into place 
 after a little brilliantine has been used, even though 
 it maj have be«n roughed underneath. Whether 
 one indulges in the Marcel Wave or merely the 
 round ua\c the same rule holds go6d, and either 
 is very effect i\ e. 
 
 Fig 3 
 
Directions on the Proper Method of Dressing Switches in Long Curls, 
 or Even Hair Upon The Head in the Same Way 
 
 picum- 
 
 F1GUM I 
 
 Figure 1 shows the curling stick used by being 
 held in the left hand, the hair being pinned on to 
 a block or mounted in some wa) to hold it in 
 position. Always ruff the piece of hair to be 
 curled. Then put it around the iron as shown in 
 figure 1, using the brush to brush it on to the curl- 
 ing stick, holding the brush in the hand and allow- 
 ing the hair to slip through the brush, gradually 
 being wound around the stick by means of wrap- 
 ping over and over. A small brush and bril 
 liantine is best to use, the brilliantine keeping the 
 hair smooth and assisting to keep it in place. It 
 the hair is extremely long it is well to curl this 
 hair first before making an attempt to curl it on 
 the stick. 
 
 In curling the hair then for this, you simply take 
 hold of the extreme ends of the hair, as far down 
 as the longest hair is, and roll it up over an ordin- 
 ary round curling iron clear up to the roots of the 
 haii'. When the hair has been thoroughly heated 
 through, begin to relax the hair on the iron 
 slightly, by opening and shutting the curling iron. 
 Take the curling iron out and when the hair is 
 cooled, wrap it around the stick as described in this 
 figure. You will then have a very <;ood looking 
 round curl. 
 
 For those who want to make a three strand coil. 
 we have described the two figures, 1 and 2. 
 
 Use a three stem switch or divide the hair on 
 the head into three parts, making each part into 
 a coil, by twisting the hair loosch but smoothly 
 as shown in figure 1. 
 
 Braid the three coils. You will then have a 
 foundation for figure 2. 
 
 «r GfiT 
 
 FIGURE -I 
 
 Holding the ends with the right hand, as shown 
 in figure 2, put the ends under the coil and grace- 
 fully wind them around. 
 
 You will then have the finished coil as shown in 
 figure 2. 
 
 This can be done with extremely long hair and is 
 a little newer idea than the plain braid and at the 
 same time gives a fluffy and very artistic finish. 
 
 We have four figures here describing the Dutch 
 
 Knot. 
 
 Long, smooth, well-mounted strands have to be 
 used in this knot in order to make the hair look 
 well when it is finished. It is not necessary to ruff 
 the hair to make a Dutch Knot as it is supposed to 
 be flat and smooth. 
 
 Hold the strand of the hair with the left hand, as 
 shown in Figure 1. Smooth and give the hair a 
 twist with the right hand. Then hold it again as in 
 figure 1. 
 
 R\G*W 
 
 F1GURE-I 
 
 I Inn hold the right hand still and bring hair up 
 with left hand so it will cross over the strand, 
 'fhe knot will then look like fisnire 2. 
 
 FIGUREQ 
 
 In figure 2 we bring the hair so as to catch it 
 with the right hand and bringing the end up. we 
 pass it through the loop. 
 
 FIGURE-IH 
 
 You are then showing the structure similar to 
 figure 3. 
 
 LEFT 
 
 FICJUHE-ET 
 
 Holding the knot in the left hand (lie sure to 
 hold as in the picture) turn over to the right. You 
 will then have a position looking like figure 4. 
 
 Pull out the two loops made and bring the ends 
 around. 
 
 Tie the ends under the loops and you will have 
 what is known as a Dutch Knot. 
 
Up-to-date Coiffure for Natural, Marcel Waved or Permanently Waved Hair 
 
 This is a coiffure dressed after the hair has been 
 waved showing the front strands brought down to 
 deep dips over the ears with a single coil at the 
 nape of the neck forming a Figure Eight Coil. 
 
 The foundation for this was a tieing off, medium 
 low on the neck, of the strand to be used for the 
 coil, parting from the crown of the head to an inch 
 or two behind the ears and dividing from temple to 
 temple for the top strand. 
 
 Fig. 4 
 
 This may also be arranged in a part as described 
 in figure 4. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
 Fig. 5 
 
 Figure 5 shows same coiffure from the side. 
 
A Popular Style of Hair Dress for Curled Hair 
 
 
 Fisr. 2 
 
 Part the hair in sections as shown in figure 1. 
 This is preferable for extremely curly hair and 
 where it is not too long. Part may be either low 
 left or right side, dividing it and making the curls 
 over the temples and where the hair that is to be 
 dressed in this fashion is not naturally curly, well 
 Marcel waved and curled ends will look just as 
 well. 
 
 The side sections are waved and rolled under 
 as shown in figure 1 and the center section left 
 for the curls. 
 
 Figures 2 describes the placing of the waved 
 pieces at sides so as to display the ear puffs ac- 
 cording to the prevailing fashion. 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
 Figure 3 shows the finished coiffure in this style. 
 
 Figure 4 shows the finished coiffure fronj the 
 side. 
 
 Figure 5 shows the completed coiffure from the 
 rear. 
 
 Fig. 4 
 
 Fig. 5 
 
 This coiffure may be made of extra curls put 
 on ; curly side pieces ; also pin waves or Syril 
 waves and extra curls or even a Semi-transforma- 
 tion with Vernon ear puffs and extra curls used at 
 the back. 
 
The Popular French Roll 
 
 Here we have a large French Roll. It is fre- 
 quently found that the extreme tight hair dress 
 off of the ears and very high at the back of the 
 neck is very unbecoming to the long features or 
 the extremely prominent nose, forehead or chin. 
 
 This can be modified by placing the low roll 
 having either a straight back, middle or side part 
 and dips over the forehead and at the side of the 
 face. 
 
 
 
 In this hair dress we are describing the founda- 
 tion is parted as shown in this picture, figure 1, and 
 shows a medium low left part with the left and 
 right front sides waved so as to make attractive 
 dips over the center of the forehead and over the 
 left temple. 
 
 The left side back is waved carefully and after 
 the left front and left side back have been placed 
 in position the right front is roughed and brought 
 back as shown in small figures. The right side 
 back is then rolled over the hand and placed in 
 position as shown in drawing. 
 
 This is also a style that could be used for ex- 
 tremely short hair and for the more mature features 
 or false hair can be used for this work. 
 
 In this coiffure you will note that no founda- 
 tion has been arranged for, and if it is desired a 
 small section may be parted off showing the 
 foundation placed to form the necessary pad for 
 the ritrht side of the finished coiffure. 
 
Bobbed Hairdress— Mature 
 
 I he bobbed hairdress is still in vogue, and 
 whether it is young or old, infant or adult, the ame 
 [ini hold good. 
 
 In this drawing is shown a bobbed cut hairdress 
 for a very elderly woman. It shows the lines thai 
 may be employed with the wave and how the hair 
 may be curled and turned under to bring the bobbed 
 effect around the ears and the back of the bead. 
 I his hair was actually short and was drawn from a 
 model who is a woman past lift)' years of age. It 
 looked neat and attractive and was a much more 
 convenienl way for her to dress her hair, Ik 
 claimed, than any she had ever Used in her entire 
 lifetime. The part may he used on either the right 
 or left side and in either instance the wave follows 
 the part as indii ated in the drawing. 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
Bobbed Hairdress for Extreme Youth 
 
 This drawing indicates a very small child of five 
 or six years of age, with the hair cut bobbed with- 
 out any reservation for bow. This is usually a 
 style employed for a child who looks better with- 
 out the how and can always be used for either boy 
 or girl. This shows also the line at which the best 
 contour is obtained around the back of the head 
 and over the ears. The hair should never be 
 bobbed so short that the top of the ear shows or 
 that it leaves the back of the neck bald half wax- 
 up to the crown. 
 
 The best position for clipping the hair is indi- 
 cated hen-, showing just the lobe and half of the 
 opening to the ear proper and just escaping the 
 round al the back of the head so that when the 
 hair hangs down smoothly, it will not show where 
 the hair has been clipped. If this is for a little girl 
 whose hair has a tendancy to curl a little bit the 
 wave may be laid in with the iron or with combs, 
 wetting the hair with water and laying in the wave 
 as is done in the adult water wave. This also helps 
 to keep the hair in place and is a less severe line 
 than the perfectly straight bob. 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
Bobbed (Youthful) Cut 
 
 This lesson shows a bobbed cut hair dress indi- 
 cating that the hair is either very short or can be 
 
 dressed in this style when it is longer. 
 
 We have here the hair parted off and tied in the 
 center of the back of the head, with three strands 
 left for curls. 
 
 The top is waved and coiled under to indicate 
 the bobbed effect and the hair all around the back 
 of the head is waved and coiled under to indicate 
 the bobbed hairdress. A few strands are left loose 
 to make curls over the ears and the finished bobbed 
 cut hairdress is given. It.can he dressed with hair 
 either short enough for bobbed hair or long enough 
 to be roughed and coiled under. 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
Bobbed Hairdress Made of Extra Hair 
 
 '*©> 
 
 The next two drawings show a bobbed hairdress 
 made with two Syril waves and extra curls over the 
 ears. These drawings indicate the waves adjusted 
 over the top of the head and at the back of the 
 head to indicate the appearance of a bobbed hair- 
 dress. The Lane curls used at the ears to bring 
 out the popular puffed effect but take away the 
 hard bun arrangement that is used by so many 
 and is so very unbecoming. These waves are ad- 
 justed so that they look as though the hair was 
 naturallv arranged in a bobbed cut. 
 
 One ni' the Syril waves waved in the front of the 
 head, using what is known as the stem end of the 
 wave at the crown of the head. 
 
 
 
 vv- 
 
 fym 
 
 t- 
 
 -i 
 
 I his takes away the very artificial appearance 
 and it is positively impossible for any one to dis- 
 cover that this is extra hair when properly ad- 
 justed. It gives a very youthful appearance to 
 either the young or the middle aged and is at- 
 tractive to any shade of hair. 
 
HOW TO MARCEL WAVE 
 
 Using Marcel Electric Iron 
 
 Body of the iron or solid piece — the top. 
 
 Groove of iron or curved piece — at bottom. 
 
 Nail of small finger rests on lower handle, on 
 inner side. The other three fingers under lower 
 handle on outside. 
 
 IK )LD IRON LIGHTLY, as no pressure is nec- 
 essary. Know how you are going to dress the hair 
 before starting the wave and have it combed prop- 
 erly and in such a way as the hair is going to be 
 dressed. 
 
 
 ALWAYS W< >RK WITH THE IRON CLOSE 
 TO THE HEAD. Do not lift the hair away from 
 the head at any time, as in this way you have better 
 control of the hair. Comb should always he near 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 iron or close to the head, or near hair when away 
 l head so as to he able to control hair better 
 v. hile waving is do 
 
 First comb the hair. Prepare it according to how 
 the lady is going to have her hair 3'ressed, and in 
 such fashion as you are going to wave and prepare 
 it for that purpose and shape it with the curling 
 iron. Get comb firmly into the hair and stay as 
 near to the scalp as possible. You actually travel 
 
 the scalp. Hold comb over the hair to give firm 
 
 body a= i.i Figure 1. as then the hair stays much 
 
 better in the comb; otherwise, it drops out. Now 
 
 then take the comb firmly into the hair and prepare' 
 
 bail' in the straight way. 
 
 Before putting the iron firmly on the hair b 
 to sort of shift the hair in the position the first 
 wave is going to be; therefore the first motion is 
 usually to the left. Begin to draw the hair slowly 
 to the left side with comb, until reaching the point 
 of the iron, as in starting to draw to the left you 
 begin to wave with hair placed on rear part of iron 
 
 FIG.2 BIS 
 
 as illustration will show. Hear in mind that the 
 hair is moving to the left while the iron moves to 
 the right or just in opposite direction ALWAYS 
 to that in which the hair is shifted. If you will 
 have these directions firmly in mind, you will have 
 no difficult v. 
 
How to Marcel Wave— Cont. 
 
 hen the hair i veil biased 01 in angle fashion Leave the iron in a position for a few minutes to 
 
 '' i' 1 1 with a sligl ufficienl the hair and while holding 
 
 Then turn iroi ce — or awa} Er you- same in thai 1 and hair being held firmly, 
 
 making it always a forward turn. Fig. 2. comb hair in a straight angle away from iron until 
 
 FIG.3 
 
 mi reach the roots as in this manner you will 
 
 e ii from other hair to allow you to follow 
 
 in a free way to your next wave and keep hair Erom 
 
 ,1 hich will hap] en if this is not carefullj 
 
 ■ ' 1 ed. When thi is doi ■■. I he i begin (note 
 
 is), for yo m wave As \ on will 
 
 ays ai ii. f the iron, lea 
 
 rear part of iron empt) to which you begin to comb 
 i air toward which means toward the right, then 
 hold hair in that position so is not to come hack 
 towards the left with hair a, si comb, and while 
 hdlding same in that position then reverse the iron 
 hack- to its original position, that is with groove 
 part down and rod, solid or round part upwards. 
 
 After completing he me 1 Bis, open iron and as 
 you already have hair shifted in position wanted 
 011 this operatio 1, the slanting of hair is therefore 
 practically done. Allow Mime space and close the 
 iron further down. Having the hair in rear part 
 ol iron, then close hair and turn same over towards 
 the face, then again comb hair away from iron 
 1 roots an n ched and while hair is being 
 held firmlj a id begin to 1 in a slanted 
 
 position inwards (In joint of the iron, moving to 
 the right. 1 .\'iite Figui e ; 1 
 
 Put the iron through the hair until you reach 
 
 the rear of '.he iron and then let the iron drop slowly 
 
 the hair sufficiently to drag the hair along, trav- 
 
 eling slowly to the point of the iron, shaping the 
 hair with comb in formation for the wave (Fig. 4). 
 
 If you do not get it .all in at one time, start over 
 again and do it over till yon reach tin- point of the 
 iron, and in traveling never close the iron, until 
 you have the hair shaped the proper way. 
 
 When the hair is nicely shaped, close the iron 
 
 !.i !■ I) without extra pressure, as the iron need have 
 
 10 Eorce, and as si on as you close the iron and as 
 
 soon as the hair has been formed, turn the iron 
 
 forward— that is, awaj from the head toward the 
 
 1 . which is tin- forward motion, and turn fully 
 upside down until you have the groove part show- 
 ing up with the hair falling over it. i Figure 5). 
 
How to Marcel Wave— Cont. 
 
 FIG. 5 
 
 Following Figure 5, in the next motion take the of you and gets tangles. Always hold the iron 
 
 comb in a parallel position — never take the hair closed — not open. When about ready start the next 
 
 from side to side, and comb straight down until wave. Straighten the hair on the iron with the 
 
 the end of the hair, or else the hair drags in front comb absolutel) straight— not horizontal. 
 
 FIG.5 BIS 
 
 When von feel your hair has had sufficient heat, after resting a little so you think the hair has 
 
 begin to draw the hair slowly to the rear of the iron shaped properly by the heat of the iron, open and 
 
 at the gradual slant, holding the hair slightly over close the iron about 1-32 of an inch or less, just 
 
 the iron which will heat the hair into formation and sufficiently to give a little play to the hair. 
 
 a_.. 
 
 Then you are ready to close the iron. Without 
 opening return it back to its original position that 
 you put it in, giving it a slight turn inwards toward 
 the head and while doing this, open iron with a 
 short shaft so as to release hair quickly from iron, 
 otherwise it will stick to it, being there by tin- 
 
 electric current and heat. As you turn iron back- 
 wards, the hair is at the point of the iron and before 
 opening the iron you will have to look where the 
 hair is. Now before turning the iron backwards 
 vim will retain the comb in the hair in the position 
 you have held it without retracting back to the 
 
How to Marcel Wave— Cont. 
 
 original form. Mold the hair in that position while ing wave which you have prepared before you. As 
 
 reversing. As you turn the iron backwards, open you follow in the Mar, turn forward and close the 
 
 it with a i will drag the hair. Start the iron. Then prepan th hair, comb straight down 
 
 the point of the iron until you reach the to the ends and begin the next formation, which 
 
 rear of the iron. Then follow right into the follow- happens to be to the front. 
 
 in to shift slowly and after waiting a little 
 time to allow the heat of the iron to shape tin- hair 
 Open the iron 1 -32 of an inch to allow the hair to 
 shift a little. Then close and do not open until the 
 lull reverse, making a clinking motion -with the 
 iron giving it a little play. The less opening the 
 belter — just to allow hair to lake its return shift, 
 then close. 
 
 The shifting is only done on the fust wave. You 
 have the hair in the front of the iron and before 
 
 iversing shift the hair slowly and gradually over 
 the iron to give the hair shape. Turn tin- iron 
 slowh backwards. 
 
 After the hair is ready to turn backwards, turn 
 the iron semi-waj read} to give it the back twist. 
 As you turn backwards to give the opening snap, 
 you draw tin- iron towards the hair and at the same 
 time give it a light pull away from the iron — a 
 Slight motion I ( WARD the head, and pull FROM 
 tin- head and then release the front . 
 
 A BRIEF OUTLINE OF THE LESSON FROM THE DRAWINGS 
 
 1. Start the travel to point which shows in 5. Then Fig. 4 shows the right position of hair 
 Fig. 1. in the iron 
 
 2. Then turn the iron forward as shown in 6. Fig. 5 shows the iron turned over and away 
 Fig. 2. from \ on 
 
 3. Then Fig. 2 MIS shows how tin' hair is pre- 7. Fig. 5 Bis shows how hair is prepared to go 
 1 for the following wave looking already in the to point as Fig. 2 BIS shows going to hinge. 
 
 ere position of haip should be For next 8. Fig. <> shows the turning of the iron back 
 
 toward you. 
 
 I Then turn backward toward you showing in 9. Fig. 7 starts the iron I i the rear — continu- 
 
 Fig. •<. ing to follow directions as from the beginning. 
 
MARCEL WAVING 
 
 The general impression seems to be with the 
 Marcel Waver, one must have a very hot iron. I 
 think that is a mistaken idea, for I have found tint 
 with a warm iron and going- over the wave several 
 times you .yet a softer and more natural wave, and 
 one that stays in just as long as those put in with a 
 very hot iron, and at the same time I know that 1 
 am not injuring the patrons hair, nor taking 
 chance of burning it. 
 
 A patron expects a wave to stay in from one to 
 two weeks, or from one shampoo to the next, but 
 unless the hair is trained for a wave it will not 
 stay it) more than three or four days. \\ ith the 
 constant waving of the hair it can be trained into 
 waves that will last from one shampoo to the next. 
 I ii i should have the hair entire!) free from all 
 tangle and former waves. It is a very good | 
 to dampen the hair a little with water before put 
 ting on the brilliantine. Apply plenty of brilliantine 
 but not too much so that the hair is oily, just 
 enough to hold the wave so that all the short en Is 
 w i'l be caught in. 
 
 Fig. A 
 
 -e three movements are made entirely with 
 the iron, which is held in your right hand. The 
 left hand is used for holding the comb and drawing 
 the hair to form the wave. It is best to use the 
 i comb, as they draw the hair 
 ; ghly over the iron and make a sharper ridge and 
 r lasti . If, when you are giving a 
 
 the hair is t, either from being f re 
 
 shampooed or a little oily, you will find you can 
 maki ! wave by rolling the iron a few til 
 
 and clinching it rather tight. 
 
 i U e i mch force in clasping the iron, 
 
 or eventually the hair will be cut or broken, and 
 will i dry and brittle with many split ends. 
 
 Wave properly done is not injurious to 
 the hair and in many cases we find it has a tend- 
 ency to !■ ke the hair grow. The first movement 
 [arcel is always the over movement. The 
 iron is rolled away from you, and the hair is drawn 
 tnd to the right or the left with the comb. 
 ording to the shape you desire to give to your 
 e. You will find that the iron in this move- 
 it ..ill make a ridge in the hair, and when you 
 eed with ' -id movement, which is under, 
 
 ide of the iron fits in the s 'Mir , idge. 
 re turning under, while the movement 
 is vet ■ the Marcel, it is really the 
 
 over movement i 1 es the wave, so your under 
 
 tin ; i nt is really only for relaxing and loosening 
 hair from the comb. 
 
 i ra bout halfway and space, which is your 
 
 thir I lent, about one inch, which gives a 
 
 : wave and the one most commonly used. 
 
 ) a larger or a smaller wave, 
 
 e accordingly. Then you are 
 
 tnovemet fain, which is 
 
 over and then your hair is drawn in the oppi 
 
 din your first wave. Then the process is 
 
 down the strands of hair far enough, so 
 
 is dressed you will have a wave. 
 
 There are really only three movements in a 
 .Man i I Wave. The first what we call the over. 
 (Fig. A), the second, the under, (Fig. B), and the 
 third, the space, ( Fig A). 
 
 Fig. B 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
Marcel Waving— Cont. 
 
 The beauty of a Marcel lies in having one con- 
 tinuous wave around the head. A novice will 
 thai they will have a grea d i uble i i mak- 
 
 ing their waves match. After the first wave is 
 formed, and >nd strand of 
 
 hair, lift up enough of the first \ ive to follow the 
 line so that the second wave will correspond and 
 mi i.n. In that manner you are sure of getting a 
 wave that will match all around the head. I 
 time you go over the wave he careful to get it in 
 the same liru U firsl made, for it is the going 
 
 over that makes the wave deep and lasting and 
 unless you get in the same line you are ironing it 
 out instead of making it deeper. Every time you 
 lift the hair up taken on the iron so tfiat 
 ■ I you .ire finished waving the hair will be 
 waved at leasl three inch i i You never part 
 off any hair for Marceling. Simply lift the hair 
 with the comh and insert the iron. 
 
 A tall person will have no trouble in waving the 
 hair towards them, hut a short person will have 
 to learn to wave the hack of the hair awaj from 
 them. They can learn this by putting in a wave. 
 wavi 'ward them and standing hack of the 
 
 patron and then going in the same lines hut waving 
 away from them. It is much easier for the patron 
 and for the operator. You will have to tilt your 
 patron's head so as to make il convenient for you to 
 work, especially when it comes to waving up the 
 back of the head. Have the patron lean forward, 
 
 ibing the hair all up and over the face. This 
 process is not a long one. and will not inconvenience 
 the patron ver\ much. 
 
 A new beginner should try the parting first, as 
 the pompadour is the most difficult, for the wav- 
 ing must match to get a good effect. In waving the 
 hair for a side or center parting, you do not hold 
 the iron straight with the part, hut close to it on 
 the forehead, slanting at an angle about %" and 
 continuing at that anHe to the crown of the head. 
 
 Fig. F 
 
 \\ hen you are waving on the left side of the part, 
 the hair is drawn to the left first with the comh. 
 making your first dip on the forehead, while the 
 right side is drawn to the right first, making a din 
 
 to corn ond with the left side. (See Fig. C). If 
 
 i he hair low and have to make a 
 
 wave around ih, ther on the left or right 
 
 side, ■ de that is the heaviest, you put 
 
 in an extra w tvi unless you do you would find 
 
 that when you finished both sides, at the crown of 
 the head your waves instead of running into one 
 another would he going in the opposite direction. 
 ^ on start your extra wave about an inch or an inch 
 : a half from the hair line on the forehead, run- 
 ning thr opposite way from your first wave. 
 
 I his wave forms your fust wave on opposite side 
 
 of the parting. ' me should put in this extm wave 
 
 if the] lii' . /ed th trand around the face. 
 
 When you are dressing the hair low over the 
 
 ears and out on the ch - part off the top layer of 
 
 mmm 
 
 : 
 
 Fig. E 
 
 waves (Fig. E) leaving enough underneath to fol- 
 low in the same wave, so that your line will cor- 
 respond through the hair to the ears. (Fig. C). 
 Ordinarily your top layer is waved down, and the 
 side of the hack awa\ from the face. 
 
 Fig. C 
 
 In that case you part off your top wave and comb 
 the hair back from the face and put the wave in 
 straight up .and down, making your first wave fol- 
 low down over the ears, and when you come to 
 
Marcel Waving— Cont. 
 
 dress the waves, your top wave is brought down 
 and the side wave is brought back over the top. 
 It gives one a more youthful look than the straight 
 down wave. (Fig. D). 
 
 will find that they will match in one even wave. 
 (Fig. IV). 
 
 Fig. D 
 
 In doing a pompadour, the first wave is drawn 
 to the left (as in Fig. II), holding your iron 
 straight with the hair line, and continuing to w 
 to the ear. 
 
 On the right side your second wave i^ bn 
 close In the hair line, thus milking your first wave 
 on the right side follow over the ears. (Fig. Ill i. 
 Then you have a wave Started from the fuivl 
 
 Fig. II 
 
 Mid going to the left, and your second wave on the 
 left side makes your first wave on the right side, 
 thus making both waves come over the ears. 
 
 After the top layer is waved, part off the hair, 
 taking enough underneath to get your line and con- 
 tinue waving the hair until you have your desired 
 three inches in depth. Your waves at the ears are 
 continued around the hack of the head, where you 
 
 Tig III 
 
 B 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Fig. 4 
 
 Fig. 5 
 
Marcel Waving— Cont. 
 
 not only making a Marcel Wave, it is dress- 
 ing it as well, for there are man) people that can 
 • a good looking wave that entirely spoil it 
 when they go to put it up (Fig. V). ( Ine should 
 ib thr iugh deeper and make each combing 
 count, lifting the comb up to fill out and give a 
 fluffy, well-shaped appearance, [f a Marcel is put 
 in correctly, one can comb it vithout Eear of it com- 
 on> under ordinary circumstances, md you can 
 conscientiously tell your patron thai a Marcel Wnve 
 will not hurt the hair. Only in shops where they 
 do not give a wave they will tell you all soils of 
 terrible things that have happened where people 
 have their hair waved constantly. ( )ne can wave 
 white hair every frequently without making it yel- 
 low if they use only the warm iron and go over the 
 v. ave. 
 
 \\ hen it comes to comparing a Marcel with a 
 French curl or as we call it, a round curl, there is 
 no comparison, because with a Marcel one can give 
 the head a smart well 1 appearance without 
 
 an elaborate dressing, in fact the more simple a 
 
 Marcel is dressed the more beautiful it is, as the 
 
 wave itself gives a finished appearance. While 
 
 with the round curl, one must have an elaborate 
 
 dressing to make the same showing. When one 
 
 puts in a Marcel they are putting in a wave that 
 
 would be the same as a natural wave if there was 
 
 in the hair. While with a round curl, you are 
 
 ; just the opposite of a natural wave. 
 
 experienced waver can put in a Marcel in the 
 
 same time that the\ can put in a round curl and 
 
 dress tin- hair. 
 
Simple Instructions For Marcel Waving 
 
 i. 
 
 First movement is just an impression made by 
 combing hair through with comb held in left hand 
 — iron in right — always hold groove of iron down 
 and insert iron in hair with comb close under. 
 Partly closing iron and as the iron is closed, turning 
 
 it over away from operator toward face of patron, 
 draw the hair to either right or left as may be de- 
 sired for position of next wave, which makes the 
 first impression have a more rounded appearance 
 than it would have if put squarely into hair and the 
 hair was not shaped over the edge. 
 
 Second movement — slide iron down by opening 
 the iron, but do not take it out of the hair, slipping 
 the iron down so that the side of groove opposite 
 operator will rest evenly in the crest of wave just 
 made by first impression. Holding iron so thai 
 groove of iron faces operator and the crest of w ivi 
 
 
 just made is on top, place comb close to iron and 
 swing slightly to left or right, which ever direction 
 wave is to swing to for dips, always taking pains 
 to see that the comb is close to iron and parallel 
 with it. Then comb may be allowed to slip down. 
 This is called "The Half'Under." 
 
 r- 
 
 Pill 
 
 HE 
 
 mm 
 
 fMm 
 
 3 
 
 
 3-4-5-6. 
 
 Now, without moving the iron, turn iron away 
 from you one turn. The comb should be allowed to 
 slip down the hair two or three inches and holding 
 the hair there, the iron still turned over one turn 
 away from you, let the iron slide down toward 
 
 comb by relaxing it slightly to the count of three 
 1-2-3, or a distance of about one inch, which is 
 about twice the width of the average iron, being 
 sure to keep the hair slightly swung to the right or 
 left — to give curve to wave, shown in Figures 3, 4, 
 5 and 6. 
 
Simple Instructions For Marcel Waving— Cont. 
 
 ^law 4 - 
 
 < /It 
 1 I 
 
 #y« 
 
 '•H'^i4 
 
 s 
 
 7 and 8. by means of the comb on the second turn over in 
 
 Then with the comb still holding hair, turn the the opposite direction— to the direction it was 
 iron away again two turns — 1-2 — swinging the hair swung when one-half under. 
 
 tH/WvvdL&v 
 
 „. *^&~v/tv 
 
 
 % 1 
 
 9 and 10. 
 
 Now, we are ready for the unrolling of the iron 
 as seen in Fig. 9, but do not remove comb from hair, 
 simply slip comb down and sliding iron over crest 
 of last wave made close in on wave with groove 
 facing operator, top edge of groove resting evenly 
 in crest of wave just made, then start one-half un- 
 der movement again as seen in Figure 10. 
 
 f"* 
 
 10 
 
 RESUME — When one-half under position is 
 taken with comb close to iron and parallel, swing 
 comb to the right or left just opposite to whichever 
 way that wave was swung and turn iron over one 
 turn, holding hair with comb and sliding down to 
 count of three, 1-2-3, turn comb once and on second 
 turn swing in opposite direction, then unwin.d and 
 removing iron by sliding down to next impression, 
 take the one-half under again. 
 
Vernon and La Belle Waves 
 
 In describing the Vernon Wave used here with 
 the La Belle front or pompadour piece, it is best 
 to take into consideration the foundation first of 
 all. The hair is combed straight back and fast- 
 ened in soft flat coil at the base or the crown of 
 the head whichever position is desired for the 
 greatest fullness. 
 
 the head and pinned tightly into position so that 
 it will not protrude and make the hair stick out too 
 full around the face. 
 
 The Vernon Wave is then placed in position, 
 fastened at the top of head and the sides roughed 
 and pulled out so as to give the proper fullness over 
 the ears as seen in the drawing-. 
 
 
 
 If there is very much hair it had better be braided 
 because it will make too large a coil at the base 
 or at the crown of the head and this is to be 
 avoided . If braided it should be parted from the 
 center of the forehead back down the center of the 
 back of head, braided very flat and wound around 
 
 As will be noted the Vernon Wave is two waves 
 so made that they are bound together in the center. 
 These are carefully dressed so as to cover up the 
 ears and come well back at the crown of the head 
 and are wrapped across the back of the neck and 
 properly pinned into position. 
 
 
 
 «M^£,«8#~ 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^g' 
 
 ug.: 
 
 
 ^r £?- 
 
 
 
 The La Belle Wave is then placed at the proper 
 position on the forehead, either using the points 
 so as to make the hair over the forehead look like 
 bangs or turning the so called stem ends under 
 and making a soft pompadour arrangement. Either 
 way is effective. 
 
 This is all brought back to the crown of the head 
 and a flat coil or a small bunch of puffs or curls 
 may be used for the finished hairdress. 
 
Vernon and La Belle Waves— Cont. 
 
 "r 
 
 ml an 
 
 ^ifl> 
 
 
 There is really nothing quite so effective to bring 
 about the present mode over the ears and the 
 fullness around the back of the head as the Vernon 
 Wave and to cover the crown of the head to make 
 a full flat contour over the forehead and the crown 
 of the head the La Belle Wave dresses beautifully. 
 
One Transformation 
 
 Of course the time will never come when extra 
 hair will not be in vogue and the ventilated trans- 
 formation in particular — because they are so nat- 
 ural and so easily adjusted. For the youthful face 
 that has very little hair and is recuperating- from 
 an illness or for the matronly face whose hair has 
 taken on an old look and is beginning to turn 
 grey or for the very old or very mature woman 
 who has hardly enough locks to dress, a transfor- 
 mation is the proper means of keeping up her ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 In one position here we have just a transforma- 
 tion used alone without any extra hair in addition. 
 The transformation is adjusted very carefully 
 around the face and brought up at the back will) 
 a high pin. one end looped over showing a 
 
 il* 
 
 A^^iMu 
 
 
 9'JiSSSm 
 
 
 &WS 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 semi-coil. The hair underneath has been combed 
 back very smooth and either platted or braided to 
 make it lay flat, or has been rolled in a soft knot, 
 high or low, just as the desire for the fullness under 
 the transformation is needed. As a rule it is always 
 wise to have this hair very snug and very smooth 
 and pinned flat in order not to have any extra hair 
 sticking out or any extra fullness anywhere. This 
 fullness can be added wherever it is needed. 
 
 
Extreme Pompadour Hair Dress 
 
 Styles Now Being Shown in England 
 
 Occasionally the soft pompadour and extreme 
 high hairdress is becoming and at the present time 
 it is coming back into vogue — while it has not been 
 the prevailing fashion for some time. 
 
 It is not as youthful a headdress as the medium 
 high or the low headdress and that perhaps is one 
 of the reasons why it has not been used as much of 
 
 a.- 
 
 late years for nearly everyone has tried to take on 
 the most youthful appearance possible. 
 
 In the drawings here described, however, we 
 have the soft pompadour extending out over the 
 
 forehead quite full and the extreme coil at the top 
 of the head. As usual the hair is parted all around 
 the crown of the head and tied off, leaving the 
 strands for the center to make the coils. The hair 
 is waved loosely and dressed puffy and full over 
 the forehead and around the ears ; combing and 
 roughing it from side to side at the back. The 
 pompadour is tucked under and pinned down 
 smooth, the coils then are roughed and rolled into 
 position, making a braid-like apostiche. This is 
 extremely good when a mature line is desired or 
 where there is a very heavy head of hair to work 
 with. If the hair is not very heavy, however, and 
 this same contour is required an extra switch of 
 two or three strands might be used to good effect; 
 parting the hair off and using what hair there is 
 naturally growing on the head arranging the back 
 and the pompadour tucking the ends under and at- 
 taching the switch to the crown of the head, 
 roughing the strands and placing them in position; 
 or pin waves and a two or three strand switch 
 may be used in like fashion, producing a very 
 artistic effect. 
 
 This style of coiffure- is especially good for ex- 
 treme and very formal evening affairs. 
 
 Finished coiffure from the side. Finished coiffure showing 
 
 front view. 
 
La May Hairdress • 
 
 Fig. 1 
 
 We will now give an outline of the foundation 
 for the La May hairdress. 
 
 First, comb the hair free from tangles and. 
 second, part the hair from ear to ear across the -s|\y 
 crown of the head. 
 
 Third, part hair over the left eye to crown, and^ £?§SnPii 
 
 fourth, comb the hair straight up at the top of ^"^^ ^r ^\ I 
 
 the head and tie on top of the head as shown in ^J >^c^y ,W 
 
 figure 1. 
 
 Next, position as shown in figure 2, make a loose 
 knot of the hair that is tied on top and pin cross- 
 wise to the left side front for the foundation. 
 
 The sixth move is to comb the hair at the left 
 side front and pin to the right side of foundation 
 as shown in figure 3. 
 
 It will be noted that the left side front is combed 
 over the foundation made by the part of the hair 
 that was tied off and was pinned in position as in 
 fifth movement. 
 
 The seventh movement is to comb the front and 
 right side together and pin to the left side of foun- 
 dation. This gives the entire hairdress as com- 
 pleted in figure 4. 
 
La May Hairdress— Cont. 
 
 A large Spanish comb placed at the left side of 
 the back of the hairdress and just a little slanting 
 gives a very classic appearance. 
 
 Either a Marcel Wave or a Round Curl could be 
 used for this — Transformation or even Pin Waves 
 might be dressed in this same way because Pin 
 Waves can be placed as carefully and as dexter- 
 ously as the hair naturally growing on the head. 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
French Roll 
 
 Here we have shown five 
 different drawings on the 
 foundation and finished 
 construction of the French 
 Roll Hairdress. 
 
 In the first instance you 
 must comb the hair free 
 from tangles, and then sec- 
 ond, part the hair from ear 
 across crown of the head to 
 the other ear according to 
 the drawing of number 1. 
 
 Ill 
 
 ii*!^ 
 
 
 Fie. 1 
 
 
 1§ V^ ^^^^k_ ^ 
 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
French Roll— Cont. 
 
 Fie. 3 
 
 Third, part the hair one and one-half inches back 
 of the ear on left and right side back into a V shape 
 to the nape of the neck, according to drawing 
 shown in number 1. 
 
 Fourth, part hair over left and right eye to the 
 crown as indicated in this drawing also, and then 
 in the fifth tie the remaining hair at the crown 
 of the head. 
 
 
 Fig. 4 
 
 The sixth proposition is with the hair tied at 
 the crown of the head and rolled into a long loose 
 puff and pinned lengthwise from crown to the nape 
 ot the fleck for the foundation as indicated in draw- 
 ing number 2. 
 
 Seventh comb the left side front and back to- 
 gether and pin to the right of foundation. It is 
 always well to put a little roughing in here if the 
 hair is not full and will not stand out. 
 
 Eighth, comb the center of the front and roll 
 the left and pin front roll. Then the roll or founda- 
 tion that reaches from the center hair line in front 
 rolls back to the nape of the neck in the back as 
 shown in drawing number 3. 
 
 Ninth, comb the right side front and pin to left 
 side of foundation. This gives the finished struc- 
 ture as shown in figure number 5. 
 
 Figure number four shows the right side back 
 still down as indicated by instructions under each 
 movement in this hairdressing work. 
 
 It is well to place the French Roll comb on the 
 left side to finish this construction. This is really 
 especially becoming to youthful faces where the 
 hair is not heavy and does not require the disposing 
 of a great length of hair. 
 
 Placing the comb at the left side brings out the 
 roll more prominently which signifies the name of 
 the French Hair 1\<>!1 or French Hairdress. 
 
 !N** 
 
 
 Fig. 5 
 
Fancy Evening Hairdress 
 
 1. Comb hair free from tangles. 
 
 2. Part hair from ear across crown to ear. 
 
 3. Comb hair straight up back and tie at crown. 
 
 4. Part hair over left and right temple. 
 
 Afyg^ 
 
 * 
 
 6. Comb back center front and pin over foundation. 
 
 
 : jt it 
 
 i W 
 
 r \ 
 
 > 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 v_ 
 
 5. Make roll, pin across crown of head out of hair 
 that is tied. 
 
 V; u 
 
 ^ 
 
 / 
 
 v. 
 
 
 ' _ J. • , 
 
 ^W 
 
 8 
 
 3fl >=' 
 
 r -mw> ^ 
 
 
 
 7. Make two separate stem switch — one draped 
 across the front and one across the back of the 
 head. 
 
 8. Comb hair from left and right side over drape 
 and pin to back of foundation. 
 
 9. Finish hairdress in front with temple curl to 
 rest on the forehead. 
 
Foundation for Bob Hairdress 
 
 From Medium and Heavy Hair 
 
 1. Comb hair free from tangles. 
 
 m ear across crown to ear. 
 
 
 3i 
 
 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 iw 
 
 ^w 
 
 0. Hair that is pinned at center back comb 
 bring over foundation in back and pin under. 
 
 f* 
 
 !'< ■« 
 
 3. Part hair in back of ear into a \ si 
 
 of neck. Pin up remaining hair in center back. 
 
 4. Tart hair in front over left and right eye back- 
 to crown. 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 "■'- 
 
 5. Hair on left and right side back, dress into c 
 and pin crosswise to ear for foundation. 
 
 7. Roll left and" right - :U hair over each ear 
 
 and pin to adjoining hair in back. 
 
 nib back center front hair and pin. 
 
PLAIN FACIAL 
 
 Massage gives a more youthful expression to the 
 face by increasing the circulation - thus bringing the 
 blood to the surface of the skin, stimulating the lym- 
 phatic system and removing superficial lines. The effect 
 of the massage treatment may be greatly accentuated by 
 the use of the preparation indicated by the condition cf 
 the skin. 
 
 All creams are patted into tie face being very 
 careful not to get any into eyes. Rub very gently around 
 eyes. In patting cream into the face the tissues are not 
 disturbed and cream penetrates better. 
 
 For a Plain Facial, the skin is cleansed by an ap- 
 plication of the Lettuce Cream because this cream has a 
 penetrating action and removes all the hidden dirt. Re- 
 move cream with two pads cf cotton inside gauze. Take a 
 pad in each hand and begin at tip of chin bringing hands 
 up over cheeks to forehead, down nose, upper lip, lower 
 lip, chin and down the neck without raising pa 
 
 After it has been removed by the use of gauze, the 
 cream indicated may ba apolied. 
 
 Lettuce Cream costs 60c 7 and is used in connection 
 with any cream. 
 
 For a dry, wrinkled skin use Tissue Cream - prices 
 60^ and $1.20. 
 
 For a dry, wrinkled and yellow skin use Whitening 
 Cream 60^ and $L.20. 
 
 For an oily skin use Astringent Cream - prices 60gf 
 
 and $1 .20. 
 
 For a dark, freckled and sallow skin use Whitening 
 Cream 60^ and $1.20. 
 
 For the very few skins that do not tolerate the 
 Tissue Cream and tnat seem to demand a mild cream use 
 
 Motor Cream - 60^ and $1.20. 
 
 For very pimpleu faces use Acne Cream - SOc' and 
 
 $1.20. 
 
 Following the cleansing with the Lettuce Cream, the 
 preparation indicated is apolied uniformly over the face, 
 neck and ears. Then the eyes are covered with pads of 
 cotton wet with Witch Hazel and the Red Light used for 
 
-2- 
 
 from five to seven minutes over the entire surface of 
 the face and neck so that the cream may penetrate the 
 pores readily. 
 
 Then the manipulation may "be driven with the Farad- 
 ic Current unless the Hydrotherapy Foot Bath is wanted 
 in conjunction, then use the Prismatic. We select these 
 currents "because they produce muscular contractions and 
 are thus a great aid to the building up of atrophied mi - 
 cles and sagging adipose tissue. 
 
 In the use of these currents always turn them on 
 carefully - remembering that the most sensative part of 
 the face is over the forehead, chin and lips, and the 
 least sensative the fatty portion of the cheek. Always 
 move the skin gently under the fingertips, never stretch- 
 ing the skin nor on the other hand moving the fingertips 
 too rapidly in a gliding motion. 
 
 See that your patron is comfortable, perfectly re- 
 laxed, and insist that she does not talk while you are 
 giving this treatment. Remember this advice yourself and 
 work quietly without conversation. 
 
 PLAIN FACIAL MANIPULATION 
 
 1. Tne first movement is up and down on the fore- 
 head on the Frontalis Muscle and the Supra Orbital Nerve, 
 up heavy, down light, all the manipulations are given 
 with the aim to raise all tissue and assist in keeping 
 all muscles and tissues from sagging. 
 
 2. Hold forehead with first two fingers of left 
 hand, one on hair line and the other above eyebrow, with 
 
 two fingers of right hand rotate with a vibrating motion 
 
 across Frontalis Muscle, rotate en temple, a branch of 
 
 the 7th nerve, slide with two fingers of left hand to 
 
 lenple and with middle finger of right hand slide to 
 
 AUricular Temporal. 
 
 5. Slide back to middle of forehead. Go through 
 each motion three times. The next is rotary motion a- 
 rontalis pressing nerves on temple and Auricular 
 Temporal each time. 
 
 4. Catch lnfratrcchlear nerves in corners of eyes 
 by placing middle fingers of each hand at hair line and 
 first with right hand slide dewn gently, catch nerve, 
 
-3- 
 
 draw up, slide down gently with left hand, catch aei^d 
 and draw up. 
 
 5. Place right hand on Corrugato cle rub 
 up to hair line, place left hand on Corrugator 'Muscle and 
 
 rub up, three times each. 
 
 6. With first and middle fingers of left hand hold 
 open wrinkles in Gorrugator Muscle and with middle fin- 
 ger of right hand rotate gently vibrating all way up 
 hair line. 
 
 7. Place left thumb above eyebrow of right eye and 
 middle finger below eye holding wrinkles out of corn 
 
 of eyes. With first and second fi of n, . ..d 
 press Lnfra trochlear Nerve, of right eye vibrate over 
 Palpebral twig of Lachrinal 
 m iscle bis a • 'tree tim a . 
 
 8. Sw onto Frontalis 
 
 cross Frontalis as in hea , 3 on Tem; Nerve 
 and vibrate under eye to lr.fr ar, three times. 
 
 9. Rotate down Procerus Muscle on top of nose, 
 liasalis, and gently over Dilator Uaris >r to the 
 I. Llla y Division of . r cles of 
 
 nose. Slide with both hands (middle fingers) to Auricu- 
 lar Temporal. Turn fi: on side and slide back to a - 
 fratrochlear. 
 
 10. After the third slide leave third finger of 
 left hand on Auricular Temporal nerve of left side and 
 with right hand slide to chin. Place first finger in 
 "Cupid 'a Bow" Infraorbital branch of 7th nerve and top 
 of Obicul Oris Mus h . Place the thumb and middle 
 finder at lower edge of Triangularis Muscle and raise 
 corners of mouth, rat the Risorius, Buccinator and 
 Zygomaticus Muscles and strengthening the Quadratus 
 Labii Superioris and Muscles. 
 
 11. Remove first finger from "Cupid's Bov. " and 
 Lse corners, slide to center cf lower lip over the low- 
 er part of the Orbicularis Oris, Quadratus Labii Inferi- 
 oris and Mentaiis. 
 
 12. Slide left band down and wring the cnin over 
 Mentaiis, Quadratus Labii Inferioris raising Mandibular 
 Nerve each time which effects muscles of lower jaw, teeth, 
 
 tongue, cheeks and ear. 
 
4 
 
 13. Down neck with first right then left hand. Gent- 
 in front and heavy at aides. You work down the Platys- 
 ma, Sternocleido Mastoideus and Trapezius Muscles, Lesser 
 Occipital, Facial and Great Auricular Nerves, three times. 
 
 14. Slide to ears pressing Auricular Temporal 
 Nerve and making three rotations around ear, three times 
 stimulating facial nerve with deep pressure at bottom of 
 ear and at "butt of the Inferior Maxillary and rotating 
 then vibrating hack to Post Auricular. 
 
 15. Slide to cheeks, place thumbs firm under eye 
 on Orbicularis Oculi Muscle and raise the Risorius, Tri- 
 angularis Buccinator I isseter Muscles. 
 
 16. Rdise three times, rotate three time . 
 
 17. Do vi oratory ment on same muscles. 
 IS. Picking gent 1 ime muscl 
 
 19. Slide hands to Post Auricular Nerve back of 
 ear and rotate with heavy motion down the Sterno-cleiao- 
 mastoideus and Trapezius muscles and up to Great Occipi- 
 tal Nerve a < urn. 
 
 20. Rotate down spine and draw up against Great 
 Occipitii Nerve, three times. 
 
 <-,. 
 
 With the thumb and medial phalanges of the 
 first ;er of each hand catch deep into the tissues, 
 with a light force going over the entire face and neck 
 in this manner. 
 
 Llowing the manipulation the cream may be remov- 
 ed by pads of gauze. Then the Lavender Lotion may be 
 sponged over the surface to remove all superfluous cream. 
 This Lotion may be maoe for booth use by following formu- 
 las given in Text Book. 
 
 Then the Positive Galvanic Current may be \ised 
 
 with the cai'Don electrode lor closing the treatment. The 
 
 cotton surrounding the electrode should be moistened 
 wi th Ski n T >n Lng L t i on. 
 
 sn the Foundation Cream, price 75pf, may be appli- 
 ed and rubbed in well, next the Paste Rouge, price 60^, 
 or the Liquid Rouge, price 50p', or the Powdered Rouge, 
 price oOe 7 , 3hould be applied to the cheeks, and the lip 
 
-5- 
 
 stick used to outline the Cupid Bow of mouth. Then the 
 powder (this should also be the shade nearest the skin) 
 may be dusted on liberally and worker) in with the finger 
 tips. Next the powder may be removed from tne sides of 
 the hair and the eyebrow brush employed for outlining 
 the eyebrow and the eyelashes. 
 
 Phantom Powder; price 75^, $1.00 and $2.00 may be 
 used for finishing the treatment instead of Foundation 
 Cream and powder, moistening sponge fresh with water then 
 Skin Toning Lotion. 
 
 The best results from any treatment are obtained 
 when the patron relaxes and the operator bends her ener- 
 gies toward resting and benefiting her. When the Laven- 
 der Lotion is sponged on you may commence to talk and 
 always advise at that time the use of the Lettuce Cream 
 for cleansing, the special cream before retiring (one 
 selected by reason of skin) and the Foundation Cream 
 bof'ore the use of powder. 
 
 The powder comes in Mannello Powder - 60^ - this 
 is a very excellent powder clinging well and quite heavy. 
 Imrdys Powder is a lighter variety and costs 75^. It 
 pleases many people and is well scented. Marinello Bou- 
 quet, neither extremely heavy nor light, price $1.00 is 
 exquisitely scented and is not only popular but very 
 beneficial . 
 
 Rouge should be recommended because of its stick- 
 ing qualities. The Powdered Rouge is excellent for day 
 light and street wear. The Liquid Rouge is for evening 
 use and the Paste Rouge tray be used for any occasion. 
 
 The "Make Up" is an important part of every Facial 
 Treatment and this together with the intelligent advice 
 about the use of the preparations at home shows the 
 trained operator. 
 
 Patron may be told that when she buys the smallest 
 size cream, the 60^ powder, the rouge, Foundation Cream 
 and Lettuce Cream, and uses them each day at home as di- 
 rected, it will only cost her eight cents a day to keep 
 her skin in excellent condition. 
 
 When the larger jars are purchased, the cost is re- 
 duced to a little less than five cents or about three 
 
 cents . 
 
-6- 
 
 For shop use, all of these preparations may be 
 purchased in bulk lots at the following cost: 
 
 Lettuce, r Cream, 
 Whitening Cream 
 Acne Cream 
 Tissue Cream 
 Motor Cream 
 Astringent Cream 
 Powder 
 
 Lavender Lotion 
 Skin Toning Lotion" 
 
 per pound 
 
 $2.00 
 
 n n 
 
 3.00 
 
 II N 
 
 3.00 
 
 It n 
 
 3.00 
 
 H N 
 
 3.00 
 
 n n 
 
 3.00 
 
 M II 
 
 2.50 
 
 * quart 
 
 1.25 
 
 n w .. 
 
 3.00 
 
REST FACIAL 
 
 A Scientific Massage Treatment in which 
 the patron is rested, refreshed and de- 
 cidedly benefited. Especially good for 
 nervous, tired, and prematurely withered 
 or aged skins, as well as for general use. 
 
 Prepare patron, being sure she is n.ade comfortable. 
 
 Apply Lettuce Cream all over surface of the face 
 and the neck and leave on from five to seven minutes. 
 
 In that length of time it should have thoroughly pene- 
 trated the pores, loosening up all foreign matter so it 
 can be easily removed with a pledget of cotton and gauze. 
 The Lettuce Cream is for cleansing purposes ana puts the 
 skin in a receptive condition for whatever cream is indi- 
 cated by condition of rkin, as every one who i_.nj.erb tands 
 the construction of the skin knows the outer layer or 
 epidermis is a succession of scales overlapping each 
 other. In the attempt of cleansing by the obsolete 
 method of soap ana water, the only result obtained is to 
 pore more foreign mattar unaarneatn the edges of the 
 tiny scales, and as soap is an excellent base ior oust to 
 adhere to, if it is not thoroughly removed, we can readily 
 understand why there are so many people who have medio- 
 cre complexions and dry, rough, scaly skins, whereas in 
 the use of Lettuce Cream for cleansing purposes, it not 
 only removes every trace of dust and dirt by its pene- 
 trating qualities, but leaves the skin soft and clean and 
 pliable and in a receptive condition for the skin foods. 
 
 After the Lettuce Cream has been removed, the Elec- 
 trolytic Cup is used witn a quart of comiortably hot 
 water to which a cupful of Saline Solution is added, 
 which in connection with the Negative Galvanic Current 
 assists in dissolving the sebaceous matter which may be 
 lodged in the excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands at 
 the same time the cup, by reason of its action, by suc- 
 tion, not only removes any remaining particles of foreign 
 matter, but aids in producing better nourishment to the 
 skin by bringing blood to the surface, thereby assisting 
 the circulation while at the same time the Saline Solu- 
 tion used in connection with electricity has a stimulat- 
 ing and bleaching effect. After the cup has been used, 
 Muscle Oil is applied and patted in for five minutes. If 
 skin seems dry and dark, the Combination Cream should be 
 applied, as the dryness indicates the need for nourish- 
 ment which the food value and the tissue building quali- 
 ties of the Combination Crean amply supply, at the same 
 
-2- 
 
 time bleaching the skin several shades lighter by the 
 whitening qualities contained in the Combination Cream, 
 which is exactly what the name indicates - a combination 
 of tissue food and tissue building qualities in addition 
 to a bleaching or whitening. 
 
 Next pads of cotton saturated with Witch Hazel are 
 placed on the eyes which not only protect the eyes from 
 the rays of the Red Light which is next used but produc- 
 es a most soothing and cooling effect and is most desir- 
 able wherever an irritated condition of the eyes or eye 
 lids is indicated. After the pads are placed in position, 
 the Red Light is used from seven to ten minutes, the 
 action of the Red Light producing heat rays, has a stimu- 
 lating effect on the skin, at the same time forcing the 
 creams into the deeper tissues. 
 
 Next we give manipulations with the Paradic Cur- 
 rent, commencing on Corrugator Muscle, and covering 
 Frontalis to tne hair line, resting with firm but gentle 
 pressure on all nerve centers, from Temporal to Auricular 
 Temporal, from Frontalis and proceed around the eyes, 
 covering Levator Palpebrae Superioris and Orbicularis 
 Occuli, resting on Infra trochlear nerve, then down nose 
 with rotary movement, covering Procesus, Nasali.s, the 
 Depressor Septi and the Dilator Nases, anterior and 
 posterior, resting on the Maxillary division of the fifth 
 i ve ana sliding back to Auricular Temporal, then down 
 to the mouth covering Quadra tur Labii Superioris Caninus, 
 Buccinator Zycomaticus, Risoris, Quadra tur Labii Inferi- 
 oris, Triangularis and M^ntalis muscles, with the right 
 hind while holding contact with the left on Auricular 
 Temporal, after wringing the skin and coming to rest at 
 each stroke of the seventh nerve, then proceed down the 
 neck covering Platysma Sternocleido-Mastoideus and Trap- 
 ezius muscles also the Cervical branch of the facial 
 nerve and accessory nerves and branches from second, 
 t i cl id f ■ .: ' U nerves. 
 
 These m< v i nts in connection with the Faradic Cur- 
 rent, stifflia] tie thj raua©les to greater activity, while 
 producing a most soothing effect on the the nerves, ay 
 
 iiiy minutes of Far-adism produces tne same effect on 
 the human system as approximately four hours sleep, we 
 can readily understand why given in connection with mas— 
 
 o. The entire system is benefited and the result is 
 a rested and refreshed feeling as well as appearance. 
 
-3- 
 
 After the manipulations have "been given, the surplus 
 cream is removed and the face sponged with the cooling 
 and refreshing Lavender Lotion, Which also removes every 
 trace of oil from the skin. We then roll the face with 
 Skin Toning Lotion and the Positive Galvanism, their com- 
 bined use contracting the tissues and filus'cieS. 
 
 The Skin Toning Lotion and Electric Current in ad- 
 dition to reducing any excess of oil from the oil gla: 
 by contractin . 3 pores or ducts, by its astringent 
 qualities, also ; ces an excellent finish to a treat- 
 ment as well as a desirable powder which no won, an v 
 desirei da] trance will do without after 
 
 having once used it. Too much cann: I id in favor of 
 Phantom Powder 1 comes in several ■:- making it 
 
 possible for every njoy i In ion 
 
 to proclucir, 00 , t, satiny finish, i t its as a 
 protecti. , Lm , n as it 
 
 neither rub 
 
 •e the Phantom 
 Powder, producj most natural ci I in appearance a's 
 well as tl ranee that occi : ion 
 
 best dinner, dance, ;, motoi r swir , her 
 ski , med appear; 
 
 Add p '33 of all preparations used in 
 
 : 
 
 6 Op' 
 
 1 Powder 61 : . , ; . < < anc ; f:.00 
 Fac - 1 der . ■ .00 
 
 C $3.! 
 
 : . : 
 50^ 
 
 n ;cial ccmes from the result of the 
 
 prope 1 i, use of the : ro lytic Cup and the 
 
 • form ectricity, thus producing a most restful 
 
 patron and making I eel and look like a 
 
 In nent, special care should be taken not 
 
 . 
 
 For home use, the ere; m indii by the condition 
 
 , • Cream each night. 
 
 the morning, either the Foundation Cream, price 
 75^, or the Skin Toning Lotion, $2.00, before the use of 
 
 atom or Dry Powder. 
 
-4- 
 
 Muscle Oil, price $2.00, and the patters should "be 
 insisted upon as they aid in improving the contour of 
 the face. 
 
 The daily care of the face, when the large packages 
 of cream are produced, need not exceed five cents a day 
 and the result is worth as many dollars in improved ap- 
 pearance. 
 
MUSCLE STRAPPING 
 
 Is given to tone, lift and develop the muscles. It 
 is possible to remove all lines with this treatment pro- 
 viding the patron will co-operate and have as many treat- 
 ments a week as operator may see fit to produce results. 
 Patron should also he advised to use Muscle Strapping 
 Outfit at home which sells for $15.00 and contains every 
 thing necessary for home treatment. . 
 
 METHOD 
 
 1. Prepare patron as for Facial. 
 
 2. Take spatula of Lettuce Cream, place in palm of 
 left hand, pat into oily state and pat on face and neck. 
 
 3. Remove Lettuce Cream with two pads of cotton, 
 wrapped in gauze with light, but firm touch, upward and 
 outward movement, beginning on top of chin and working 
 up to Frontalis, removing cream from neck last, with down- 
 ward strokes. 
 
 4. Pat in Muscle Oil, with patters around eyes and 
 on lines around mouth, to feed tissues and fill in lines, 
 also to soften dry neglected tissues. 
 
 5. Take one spatula of Tissue Cream in palm of 
 left hand, pat same as Lettuce Cream, blending it with 
 Muscle Oil. Apply to face and neck with patting movement 
 being careful to keep all oil from getting into the eyes 
 as it inflames them. Apply enough cream to face and neck 
 ,so hands will slide over tissues easily, and not disturb 
 
 them with manipulating. Tissue Cream is used because of 
 its building up properties and its softening effect on 
 the tissues. 
 
 6. If face and neck is thin use High Frequency Cur- 
 rent, Flat Electrode, ten minutes to stimulate glandular 
 activity and giving deep stimulation to tissues. 
 
 7. Pads of cotton wet with Witch H:izel over eyes - 
 use Rea Li^ht over cream 5 minutes for heat rays only. 
 In case where face is fat, do not use High Frequency or 
 light. 
 
 MANIPULATIONS 
 
 r 
 
 1. Hands under chin, lift up on Platysma, which is 
 supplied by Cervical Branch of Facial Nerve, vibrate up 
 on Zygomaticus, supplied by Facial Nerve to Temporal. 
 
2- 
 
 2. Hands on Mental! s, vibrate up on Quadratus Labii 
 Inferioris, supplied by Facial Nerve to corner of eye. 
 
 3. Hands under chin, lift up vibrate up on Zygo- 
 maticus to Maxillary Division of 4th nerve. 
 
 4. Hands under chin lift up, vibrate up to Maxil- 
 laryDi vision of 5th over Orbicularis Oris, supplied by 
 Facial Nerve, out over Zygomaticus up to Temporal in over 
 Frontalis, down on Corrugator. 
 
 5. Hands under cnin, lift up, vibrate up on Triangu- 
 laris supplied by Facial Nerve to Maxillary Division of 
 5th out over Zygomaticus, to Temporal in under eye, on 
 Orbicularis Oculi, supplied by Facial Nerve to Infra- 
 trochlear, down nose on Procerus, supplied by Facial 
 Nerve to Maxillary Division of 5th up on nose to Infra- 
 trochlear out over eye to Temporal. 
 
 6. Rest on Inf ratrochlear , vibrate out under eye - 
 in over eye to Inf ratrochlear . 
 
 7. Vibrate up on Corrugator, supplied by Facial 
 Nerve to hair line. 
 
 8. Vibrate out over Frontalis, 3 times to Temporal. 
 
 9. Slide to ear. Rotate rim of ear - vibrate up in 
 front of ear resting on Auricular Temporal. 
 
 10. Hands under chin - vibrate up to Temporal. 
 Fingers over eyeballs - 1-2-3-4 to Infratrochlear. 
 
 NECK MOVEMENTS 
 
 1. Outline mandible - drawing hands back to 7th 
 nerve. 
 
 2. Under chin, vibrate to 5th nerve. 
 
 3. Cup thorax, vibrate up on Sterno Cleido Mastoid- 
 eus, supplied by 2nd and 3d Cervical Nerve. 
 
 4. Third line on neck, vibrate up to 7th nerve. 
 
 5. Hands on Gr, Occipital, down on spine - 1-2-3 
 out on shoulders 1-2-3 - slide off. 
 
 6. Wring neck. 
 
 EACH MOVEMENT TO BE DONE 7 TIMES. 
 
-5- 
 
 STRAPPIMQ 
 
 Strap over lines of manipulations about ten times. 
 
 Remove all oils from face and neck and ears. 
 Sponge with Lavender Lotion. Place pads of cotton, wet 
 with Witch Kazel on eyes, with patter made of cotton, 
 flap in Skin Toning Lotion thoroughly. 
 
 Roll with carbon cylinder electrode, wrapped with 
 cotton, Positive Galvanism, saturated with Skin Toning 
 Lotion, which leaves a smooth surface and is cooling to 
 the skin. 
 
 Apply Phantom Powder to neck and face except on 
 cheeks and nose. 
 
 Apply Paste Rouge on cheeks where needed, also lips. 
 
 In addition to the treatments which should be giv- 
 en at least twice a week the patron should be instructed 
 to employ Lettuce Cream exclusively for cleansing the 
 skin night and morning and at any time during the day 
 when cleansing is necessary. 
 
 This cream for su.ch purposes shoula be purchased 
 in the large package, or one ounce containers, costing 
 $2.50. 
 
 Muscle Oil, costing $2.00, should be patted into 
 the skin at least every night. Following this, either 
 the Combination Cream or Tissue Cream should be used - 
 the Combination preferably on account of its specially 
 bleaching action. The large Tissue Crebin may be obtained 
 for $1.20 and the large Combination Cream for $2.5u. 
 
 Before using powder the Skin Toning Lotion, price 
 $2.00, should be used ana then the powder dusted careful- 
 ly over the surface, taking care to select the powder 
 indicated by the color of the skin. Marinello Eouquet 
 at $1.00 a package is very popular in such cases. 
 
 The patters cost $2.00 a pair and may be employed 
 as indicated with the creams ana Muscle Oil. 
 
 An outfit, consisting of the Muscle Oil, Combina- 
 tion Oream, Patters, Phantom Powder and Rouge, may be 
 purchased for $14.00 and is often found very acceptable. 
 
 In directing patrons as to the necessity for home 
 care.be sure to impress them with the nece.ssity for mild 
 patting so they may not bruise the delicate tissues. 
 
TIRED EYE MASSAGE 
 
 Prepare patron. Apply Lettuce Cream. Have patron 
 sit up in chair. Use Eye Cup filled with Boric Acid Solu- 
 tion. Three minutes for each eye. Change Eye Cup for 
 each eye to avoid chance of infection. Recline patron. 
 Pat in Muscle Oil around eyes for five minutes with pat- 
 ters or finger tips. Apply cream skin indicates. Pat in. 
 .Use care not to get oil or cream in eyes. .Witch Hazel 
 pads on eyes. Red Light for five minutes. Tired Eye 
 manipulations with Faradic Current. Have bandalettes 
 soaked in hot water two minutes. Apply to eyes as ho T ~ as 
 can he borne. Red Light over pack for ten minutes. Remove 
 "bandaiettes . Witch Hazel Pack on eyes while you remove 
 cream from face. Sponge with Lavender Lotion or pat in 
 Bicin Toning Lotion with cotton pads. U^e the positive 
 pole with SKin Toning Lotion. Uue either Foundation 
 Cream or Phantom Powder for make-up. 
 
 TIRED EYE MANIPULATIONS 
 
 1st: Hands under chin. Slide up to Temporal. Press 
 in lightly over Frontalis to Infratrochlear. 
 
 2nd: Hands over eyes. Vibrate out to Temporal. 
 Slide in over Frontalis to Infratrochlear - three times. 
 
 3rd: From Infratrochlear slide lightly down nose. 
 Rest on Maxillary division of the fifth nerve. Vibrate 
 out to Temporal touching Auricular Temporal in passing. 
 Repeat tnree times. 
 
 4th: In over Frontalis rest Infra trochlear . Bcwn 
 nose. Rest on Maxillary . Vibrate out from corner of mouth 
 touching seventh in passing. Up to Temporal. In over 
 Frontalis to Infratrochlear. Tnree times. 
 
 5th: Shape eyebrows. Vibratory movement. Rotate in 
 under eye. Rest on Infratrochlear. Repeat three times. 
 
 6th: Both middle fingers of one hand. Rotate on 
 each eye ball. Slide back to Infratrochlear. One hand o- 
 ver forehead the other under eye meeting at lnfratroch- 
 ) r. Repeat tnree times on each eye. 
 
 7th: Sliae to chin from forehead over temple down 
 cheek. Outline chin. Vibratory movement resting en sev- 
 er ch. Tnree times. 
 
 8th: Slide over rims of ears, thumbs on Auricular 
 Temporal forefinger parallel with nose. Raise cheeks. 
 Tnree positions on cheeks 1-2-3, movements from corner 
 
-2- 
 
 of mouth to ear, bringing forefinger to Auricular Tempor- 
 al at each third movement. Repeat three times. 
 
 • • 
 
 9th; Forefinger on Auricular Temporal. Slide over 
 Frontalis to Infratrochlear. Vibrate out on eyeballs with 
 second and third fingers, rotating with third and dotting 
 with second. Three times on each eye. Rest on Temporal. 
 
 Elide to chin. Vibrate up to Temporal. 
 
 Make Bandalettes of cotton, soak in hot water to 
 which '^ cup of 4$ Boric Acid Solution has been added. 
 
COARSE PORE ASTR G NT 
 
 GIVEN FOR COARSE FORES AND OILY ! 
 
 Prepare patrol . Cleanse face I ] ttuce Cream - 
 use Electrolytic Cup, Saline Solution i,n c . ?ly 
 Astringent Cream, if the skin is dark "blend Astringent 
 end Whitening. The Astringent Cream "by its action on the 
 tissue glands and pores of the s] only coi tracts 
 the pores but reduces the flow of oil, while the Whi1 
 ing Cream bleaches and also has a s it drying effect 
 very beneficial. In case of exc .e oily cc I on 
 after cream is appliec , pads ; ' . ...-1 
 
 ere placed or the eyes and the Red L ;ht used forcing 
 the creams into eper tissues. 
 
 Next, the m • Lons wit] radic rent are 
 ; 17611, stimulating the muscles rves tc greater i 
 tivity thereby increasing the blood supply to the tis- 
 sues and importing a more youthful > Lon to 
 face. After the manipulation , • '■ m is re- 
 moved and the face spoi on to remove 
 all tracLo 01 oil and rolle. Ltive Galvanism and 
 Astrin, cnt Lotion thereby fore . Li mt Loti 
 into the tissues by means oJ c < the 
 time prepai .-.kin for the mas] is made of 
 pads of cotton saturated with Astrin ent Loti , • plac- 
 ed upon the fa 
 
 The patters are now brought into u: < the whole 
 surface excepting iorehe^d are now briskly patted with a 
 vibratory mov- , tnus bringing a new supply of blood 
 to the surface, also forcing more of the Astringent into 
 the pores or ducts. The mask is then if ted off and As- 
 tringent allowLo. to dry, when dry streaks are removed and 
 it will be seen the skin looks smooth, soft and velvety. 
 
 Next the dry or paste rouge may be applied and pow- 
 der which no well groomed woman woul-i do without, is 
 liberally applied giving the skin a fresh wholesome ap- 
 pearance, which lasts for days. 
 
 LIST OP PREPARATIONS USED IN THIS TREATMENT: 
 
 Lettuce Cream - 60^ 
 
 Astringent Cream - 60^ and $1.20 
 
 Whitening Cream - 60^ and $1.20 
 
 Astringent Lotion - $1.00 
 
 Patters, per pair - $1.50 
 
 Paste Rouge - 35^ 
 
 Dry Rouge - 50^ 
 
 Marinello Powder - 60^ and $1.00 
 
For home care - the woman with the oily skin is 
 advised to use the Medicated Soap and mater each ni, 
 for cleansing the skin. This soap sells for fifty cents. 
 Then the Astringent Cream may he rubbed or patted into 
 the tissues. 
 
 In the morning the Astringent Lotion - price $1.00 
 is sponged over the face before the powder is applied 
 and this may be used several times during the day if it 
 seems necessary. The Astringent Cream may be alternated 
 with whitening Cream and the use of the Bleach Mask may 
 also be tried at home as recommended elsewhere. Frequent 
 baths of the entire body in very warm water to which so- 
 da has been added, and the exclusion of oily foods:, such 
 as fats and butter from the diet, will assist in .free" 
 the skin of that oily appearance. Home care must be made 
 a very important part of the tr< t. Treatments 
 should be given at least twice a week for a time. 
 
DRY SKIN ASTRINGENT 
 
 GIVEN FOR ROUGH, DRY, SCALY BKINS WITH LARGE PCRES. 
 
 Prepare patron by arranging towel securely and 
 neatly about shoulders. Also, pin towel over the rest of 
 chair, lay headband over headrest, and recline pstron, 
 pin headband arouna head securely. Care should be taken 
 that no hair escapes around edges of headb.nd. 
 
 Apply Lettuce Cream for cleansing, let remain on 
 from five to sevtn minutes, during which time cream will 
 have sufficiently penetrated the sKin to enable all oust, 
 dirt and foreign matter to be removed with a pledget of 
 cotton and gauze. 
 
 If there are comedones, the Electrolytic Cup is 
 used. Negative Galvanism, with cup to assist in dissolv- 
 ing sebaceous matter lodged in the ducts, use ccmfortj^ly 
 hot water with cupful of Saline Solution added to water. 
 Tnis has a stimulating as well as a slightly bleaching 
 effect. 
 
 If there are no comedones, emit the use of the cup. 
 
 Muscle Oil is patted in around eyes, mouth, nose 
 and forehead, wherever lines appear, as the lines irdi- 
 cate the loss of tonicity in muscles or their inability 
 xo respond to stimulant. The Muscle Oil by its nourish- 
 ing and stimulating qualities assists the muscles in re- 
 garding this tonicity. 
 
 Tissue Cream is liberally applied to assist in 
 building up the broken tissues and supplying the. neces- 
 sary nourishment ?o the skin. 
 
 The Flat Electrode of the Prismatic Ray is used 
 over the cream, producing glandular activity, as the se- 
 baceous glands, in their work of supplying the necessary 
 oil to the tissues, have failed to perform this function 
 with the result the skin becomes dry ana lifeless. 
 
 Tiie Prismatic Ray or High Frequency acts directly 
 on the glands stimulating them to greater activity. Pads 
 of Tissue Cream and Muscle Oil are placed over the face 
 and neck and cotton saturated with Witch Hazel placed on 
 the eyes. The Ratio Bell with 32 Candle Power Red Lamp, 
 is used ten minutes to force Tissue Food and Muscle Oil 
 into deeper tissues. Facial manipulations are given with- 
 out current, by their action, gently exercising the mus- 
 cles and stimulating the blood supply to the tissues and 
 nerves. 
 
-2- 
 
 After manipulations all traces of cream are remov- 
 ed and Astringent Lotion applied with the Positive Gal- 
 vanism, the Astringent Lotion combined with the Positive 
 Galvanism, closing the pores and contracting and harden- 
 ing the tissues. A little Foundation Cream before the 
 make. up is excellent as it promotes a smooth soft surface 
 to which the powder clings and remains until removed 
 with cleansing agencies, also protecting the skin from 
 sun, wind and dust, keeping it soft, smooth an* pliable. 
 A liberal coating of powder over the Foundation Cream 
 with just sufficient rouge to produce that fresh, clear, 
 youthful, well-groomed appearance which every woman de- 
 sires. 
 
 For home use, the Lettuce Cream must be insisted 
 uptfh and the patron must be impressed with the necessity 
 for resolutely declining to use soap and water on any 
 occasion. The large or $2.50 jar will be best for such 
 conditions as a great deal of Lettuce Cream will be used. 
 Tissue Cream may often have to be employed during the 
 day a;, well as at night, because of extreme dryness of 
 the SAin ani so the large packages with those selling 
 for $1.20 or the $5.50 packages slould be suggested, with 
 the Combination Cream as an alternate measure. The $1.00 
 package should always be sold in this connection though 
 frequently the patron will desire the larger or $2.50 
 package. If the skin is extremely sensative and dry the 
 Foundation Cream may be discarded and the Combination 
 Cream used instead in the morning before applying the 
 powier. 
 
 Wh9n the abnormal dryness continues, the patron 
 should be advised to purchase a Radio Bell and use it at 
 home each night for forcing in the Tissue Cream and thus 
 softening tne skin. 
 
 The Marinello Bouquet Powder is especially good 
 for such conditions. 
 
 Should Phantom Powder be used at all, it should be 
 the larger, smoother, finer kind at $2.00 a jar and it 
 should be applied by a sponge moistened in milk. 
 
 
ACNE TREATMENT 
 
 In all Acne cases the good results of the treat- 
 ments depend upon the care with which the comedones are 
 removed. The work is tedious, "but necessary and while 
 the skin should not he bruised by undue pressure, still, 
 unless the pests are removed there will be no improve- 
 ment - hence the necessity for care and attention. 
 
 If, after the use of the cup the skin still resists 
 the action of the comedone extractor, pledgets of cotton 
 soaked in warm water to which a little soda has been 
 added, may be placed over all the worst portion and the 
 light used over the cotton. This acts as an excellent 
 softening agent and yet does not cause the extreme reac- 
 tion of other hot applications and avoids inflaming the 
 eyes, and a general enlarging of the pores that always 
 follows the use of not towels. 
 
 After a few moments the comedones will be easily 
 expressed, the pustules opened and the contents emptied. 
 Then the blue light may be used over the bare skin lor 
 its antiseptic effect. 
 
 Then the Acne Cream is next applied well over the 
 surface of the skin, and the Flat Electrode of the Pris- 
 matic Ray utilized for a general application lasting 
 from fifteen to twenty minutes. The surface stimulation 
 is extremely great and has a marked effect on every sub- 
 ject, the results usually being gauged by the thorough 
 work done before in removing comedones and expressing 
 pustules . 
 
 Next the surplus cream may be removed with a pled- 
 get of cotton, and the face sponged with Acne Lotion un- 
 til every particle of oil has been removed. Then the 
 Medicated Powder may be dusted over the surface. This 
 powder is free from any perfume or other ingredients 
 that might have a tendency to irritate tender surfaces 
 and serves as a protection and healing agent. 
 
 In all Acne cases it is most imperative that the 
 patron work conscientiously at home and for this reason 
 it is insisted that the Acne Outfit be made a part of 
 every treatment and the work outlined so that no day 
 will pass without the proper preparations being employed. 
 
 Ordinarily, this will be found the easiest task as 
 every one so afflicted welcomes with joy the suggestion 
 for help. 
 
-2- 
 
 List of all preparations and price imp usee in 
 this treatment: 
 
 Medicated Soap - 50jzf 
 
 Acne Lotion - $1.00 
 
 Acne Cream - $1.2o'aiid 60^ 
 
 Medicated Powder -. 75^ 
 
 Stronger Acne Cream - $1.20 
 
 Acne Bex for home treatment -,.#3.75. Includes a 
 more penetrating Acne Cream, a special Acne Lotion.'Medi-' 
 cated Soap and Medicated Face Powder to use during the 
 day and a Stronger Acne Cream to use twice a week. 
 
 Emphasis should be placed on the necessity for 
 cleansing the surface thoroughly eacn night with Medicat- 
 ed Soap and the use of much warm water, holding the warm 
 wash cloth over the worst portions and thus softening 
 them until the patrcn can express the comedones herself 
 with the small cemedene extractor which is a part of the 
 outfit. Then the Acne Cream, Stronger Form, may "be spread 
 over all parts treated and allowed to remain at least 
 fifteen minutes. It may then he removed "by Lettuce Cream 
 and the other Acne Cream rubbed in well and allowed to 
 remain en all night. 
 
 In the morning the face may again be cleansed with 
 warm water and the Medicated Soap, the Acne Lotion, 
 sponged on and the Medicated Powder dusted over the sur- 
 face. 
 
 The cost of the home treatment wnen properly fol- 
 lowed out does not exceed seven cents a day. 
 
 Emphasis should also be placed on the necessity 
 for a daily bath and the proper care of the intestinal 
 tract. 
 
METHINE TREATMENT 
 
 AwNE ROSACEA 
 
 In this condition nose, chin and cheeks are often 
 times very red and angry looking and covered with small 
 red papules. When the condition has "become chronic the 
 superficial blood vessels wilt be much dilated. 
 
 When the skin is leathery it should be cleansed 
 with Medicated Soap. If it is easily irritated ana very 
 sensative the Lettuce Cream may be applied. The soap 
 sells for fifty cents a box and the Lettuce Cream for 
 sixty cents for the small jar and two dollars for the 
 large jar. 
 
 After five minutes remove either the soap or the 
 Lettuce Cream using gauze to remove the cream and employ- 
 ing the spatula gently if soap has been appliea. Cotton 
 may be placed inside the gauze and a gentle upward mo- 
 tion employed in rubbing the face. 
 
 Next sponge the lace with the soda solution to re- 
 move every trace of oil so that the application made 
 with the Galvanic Current may have a bttter opportunity 
 to penetrate into the deeper tissues. 
 
 Tnen apply the le thine Tincture with the Ball Elec- 
 trode, positive current for twenty minutes, usir.g a very 
 slow deliberate motion, never scraping the gauze over the 
 face but alwavs maintaining the ccntact. This Tincture 
 is never sold to the patron but is used exclusively by 
 the Shop Owner. it sells for $4.00 a beetle and is em- 
 ployed in inflamed conditions of this type because it 
 has a tendency to increase vascularity and discourage 
 growths. It hat an affinity for the Negative Pole and is 
 therefore employed with the Fositive Galvanvic Current. 
 
 The Methme Ointment which sells for either sixty 
 cents or two dollars and may be used at home, also often 
 helps greatly in this treatment by placing cotton pads 
 coated with the ointment into the nostrils and thus de- 
 creasing the ir,f tarnation whicn seems to exist there also 
 as when the Electric Current is used much of the Methine 
 is absorbed Into tne tissues. 
 
 Following the use of tne Methine the Stronger Acne 
 Cream - dark cream - may be applied and allowed to re- 
 main on at least twenty minutes. The Prismatic may be 
 \'Sed over this for ten minutes of this time, thus tending 
 to increase cell activity .stimulating the surface of the 
 skin and aiding in absorption. The Acne Cream which 
 costs $1.20 a jar is a remarkable antiseptic and should 
 be used consistently each night in any difficult case. 
 
-2 
 
 Before removing the cream give deep manipulations 
 down the back of the neck to relieve congestion and 
 start good circulation. Remove the cream with pads, and 
 if necessary wash the discoloration left by Methine off 
 with soap and water. 
 
 If the skin still looks dark a little of the As- 
 tringent Cream may be forced in with the Light. This 
 cream has a" soothing action and is truly astringent in 
 action. It also makes the skin look whiter. The super- 
 fluous cream may be removed with the Lavender Lot i on and 
 if the face is very red a little Calraine Lotion dabbed 
 on before the Medicated Powder (which sells for 75j^) is 
 dusted over the surface. If rouge makes the skin look 
 less rei in spots a little should be used. 
 
 The Patron should positively be provided with one 
 of the Acne Outfits containing everything necessary for 
 home use and should employ Methine also. Each night she 
 should leave the Stronger Acne on the skin for twenty or 
 thirty minutes leaving the Methine an the nostrils for 
 the same length of time. After the Stronger Acne has 
 been removed the Acne Cream may be rubbed in thoroughly. 
 
 If the skin gets very dry and dark, omit the Stronger 
 Acne for a : night or so and use the Astringent Cream in 
 the morning bisfore app , powder. 
 
 After all the inflammation has been subdued, the 
 capillaries may be opened, and the face will then be 
 cleared of the congested appearance. 
 
BLEACH MASK 
 
 1( Tan 
 
 2( Freckles 
 
 Given 3( Leukoderma 
 
 For 4( Chloasma 
 
 5( Oily skins and large pore3 
 
 6( Acne - After pustules and papules have healed. 
 Is antiseptic, an irritant and refining. 
 
 1. Prepare patron as for Facial. 
 
 2. Apply Lettuce Cream to cleanse, 
 on prepare preparations and electrodes. 
 
 While cream is 
 
 3. Apply Antiseptic and Bleaching Lotion with Nega- 
 tive Galvanism in Carbon Cylinder Electrode wrapped in 
 cotton, 12 minutes. This forces the Lction into the deep- 
 er tissues by a process called cataphoresis . 
 
 4. Apply mask made of Refining Powder mixed with 
 Bleaching Lotion using six spatulas of powder. Allow to 
 dry U6ing pads of cotton on eyes wet. with Witch Hazel 
 and Tissue Cream on eyebrows and lipt. When mask is thor- 
 oughly dry, remove by rubbing off gently with finger 
 tips, catching bits of mask in towel which is spread un- 
 der neck and shoulders of patron. This prevents the 
 irritation sometimas caused by the use of water. 
 
 5. Apply Whitening Cream or Tissue Cream (pads on 
 eyes - Red Light 3 to 5 minutes) and if skin is not irri- 
 tated, give Plain Facial, manipulations with Faradic Cur- 
 rent if skin is irritated. Manipulate without current. 
 
 6. Remove all oils - carefully and thoroughly. 
 Bponge with Lavender Lotion. Close treatment by rolling 
 with carbon cylinder formerly used, with Positive Galvan- 
 ism, 13 minutes. 
 
 AppLy Pnantom Powder, rouge and powder. 
 
 Advise patron 
 at least 12 hour? . 
 use. 
 
 PREPARE 'NO MS: 
 
 not to use soap or water on face for 
 Sell her Bleaching Outfit for home 
 
 Lettuce Cream 
 Blenching Lotion 
 Tissue Cream 
 Whitening Cream 
 Lavender Lotion 
 Phantom Powder 
 
 60jzf 
 
 75^ anfl $1.25 
 
 60^ and $1.20 
 
 60^ and $1.20 
 
 50^ 
 
 60^, $1.00 and $2.00 
 
2- 
 
 Paste Rouge - 35p 
 Larinello Powder - 60^ and $1.00 
 Bleaching Box - $3.75 
 
 When the skin it very dark or much freckled, patron 
 should be advised that protection is especially neces- 
 sary and that exposure of even a very few minutes may be 
 followed by a deeper coat of tan or freckles unless the 
 skin is thoroughly covered with powder. 
 
 Phantom Powder makes the best covering and in such 
 cases should also be applied with milk. 
 
 Soap ai.d water are irritants and should hever be 
 used excepting to clearse exceptionally oily skins. 
 
 To keep up the good work, it is well on alternate 
 nights to advise patron to mix the Refining Powder and 
 Lotion into a paste, and after cleansing the skin, apply 
 the paste uniformly over the surface. Leave on ten or 
 fifteen minutes. Remove with water - just by crumbling 
 with the finger tips. Should the skin show evidences of 
 irritation, stop the use of the Lotion and Whitening 
 Cream at once, applying Calmine Lotion until all irrita- 
 tion has subsided and use the Tissue Cream at night. 
 
 As a rule the Whitening Cream, double strength, at 
 $1.20, the Lotion at $1,00, and the Refining Powder at 
 50^, are to be used every aay and the skin protected by 
 One of the powders before any exposure to the air. 
 
 This treatment properly given will bleach any skin 
 fron two to four shades without irritation. 
 
MILK BLEACHING TREATMENT 
 
 This treatment is intended for skins too sensitive 
 to stand the other ble-s.ching treatment. It has a refinii , 
 softening influence on the skin leaving it as soft as vel- 
 vet, and can "be used on practicall ry conditic . 
 
 The steps are as follows: 
 
 1. Apply Lettuce Cream; allow it to remain on for several 
 minutes then remov of cotton or gauze. 
 
 2. Apply Combination Cream in a uniform manner over the sur- 
 face. 
 
 5. Moisten the pads in Boracic Acid Solution or Witch Has 1 
 d apply them over the eyes for five or seven minutes. 
 
 4. 1" nipulate wi 
 
 5. R move cream with : . 
 
 6. Cut pieces or e enough to cover the face from 
 ear to ear and long en. to cover from hair line to 
 chest. Dip in milk and wring di . n spread over the 
 face. 
 
 7. Cover the gauze with mask orepared by mixing the Astrin- 
 gent Powder with milk to the consistency with which it 
 I ly be applied easily. 
 
 8. PI tee pads over the eyes again dry with Red Light. 
 
 9. Continue for ten or fifteen utes until mask is dry. 
 Then lift it off and sponge the surface with milk. This 
 process has been accepted as g less " " than mak— 
 
 - the mask and spr: - over the surfac hout gauze, 
 though either method may be use< . 
 
 10. W'aen surface is dry and free frcrn any trace of the mask, 
 
 t in the Muscle Oil with patters for five minutes, using 
 the patting movement wherever lines are the deepest. 
 
 11. Flop in Skin Toning Lotion with cotton pad. 
 
 12. Apply the Phantom Powder with mil , so that the face and 
 neck are uniform in appearance, and then add rouge, make 
 up the eyebrows and lips and finish the treatment so that 
 the patron may look her best. 
 
 The following preparations are used in thi 3 treatment. 
 
■ 
 
 The p h preparation 
 
 for home u is reason, they should 3 be 
 
 on d i i 
 
 For ord th Lown. 
 
 list of pr] nous 
 
 i;ion Cream 1.25 and 52.50 
 r (old) 2. 
 
 g Oil 2.00 
 
 a Toning Lotion 2.00 
 
 ir .60, $1.00 §2.00 
 
 ebrow Pencil 
 
 Lip Stick .55 
 
 Liquid Eouge .50 
 
 ment I ..ill please and satisfy a patron 
 nothing c 3 better than this special process. 
 
MAR1NELLO WRINKLE MASK 
 
 Given for deep and superficial lines. Action lifts 
 tissues underneath lines filling up epitneliura. 
 
 Prepare patron. Cleanse lace ar.u neck with Ltttuce 
 Cream. Apply Tissue Cream, or if skin is dark, blend 
 Tissue ana Whitening or use Combination Cream, as wrink- 
 les or lines indicate lack of nourishment. The Tissue 
 Cream should be liberally used for its food and tissue 
 building qualities and a little of the Whitening Cream 
 added tor its bleaching effect. However, where the skin 
 is much wrinkled the Combination Cream if the skin is 
 dark, would be most suitable as the Whitening Cream naa 
 a somewhat drying effect, its use should be eliminated 
 as far as possible and the Combination subt.ti Luted . Al- 
 ter cream is applied, pads saturated with Witch Hazel are 
 placed or? the eyes ana tie Red Light used to force cream 
 into deeper ti sues. 
 
 The manipulations as given in Rest Facial are next 
 given with Faraaic Current, after which the surplus cream 
 is removed and the skin sponged wi tn a solution of Bi- 
 carbonate of Sola to remove all traces of oil, so the 
 skin will receive the full benefit of the Astringent Lo- 
 tion, which is applied by the positive galvanism, as oil 
 resists galvanism. It is essential that every particle 
 be removeu wi,th the soda solution. 
 
 After the Astringent Lotion is applied, a misk of 
 WrinkLe Paste saturated with Astringent Lotion is prepar- 
 ed and patted on the face with the finger tips. The pads 
 are again placeu on the eyes and the mask dried with the 
 Red Light. The Paste, in drying, draws the tissues up un- 
 derneath the lines, while the Astringent assists in con- 
 tracting the muscles, thus relieving the sagging condi- 
 tion usual in wrinkled faces, at the same ticce imparting 
 a clear, fresh, youthful appearance to the skin. When 
 the mask is dry i it should be removed with warm water and 
 a pledget of cotton and gauze, being careful not to dis- 
 turb tne skin. A little Foundation Cream should next be 
 applied for protection against wind and dust as well as 
 for the foundation to the make-up, which should follow. 
 A little rouge, gently applied with a liberal coating of 
 powder, nicely blended in with the finger tips finishes 
 a treatment, which every one having lines or wrinkles or 
 a sagging condition of the skin should avail themselves 
 of. 
 
2 
 
 Preparations used in this treatment: 
 
 Lettuce Cream - 6Cy Whitening Cream 60^ and 
 
 $1.20 
 Tissue Cream - 60^" and $1.20 Combination Cream $2.50 
 Astringent Lotion $1.00 Wrinkle Paste $1.00 
 Motor Cream - 60j^ and $1.20 Foundation Cream 75^" 
 
 In most cases of wrinkles the Foundation Cream 
 will be slightly drying and hence may be superceded by 
 these other preparations. 
 
 Should Phantom Powder be used in place of the dry 
 X^owder, after the skin has been cleansed, the powder may 
 be sponged on with milk thus making a smooth covering 
 that is not at all drying. 
 
 Paste Rouge will be found excellent for these con- 
 ditions. 
 
 The woman with wrinkles should be impressed with 
 the necessity for discarding soap and water, using the 
 cleansing Lettuce Cream - large or $2.50 size, as inai- 
 cated here, and the Tissue Cream alternated with the Com- 
 bination Cream each night. The $3.50 Tissue and $2.50 
 Combination will be acceptable in such cases. Muscle Oil 
 patted in will also be helpful and the Skin Toning Lo- 
 tion applied occasionally will be of great assistance. 
 
 Treatments should be taken at least once a week. 
 
SCALP MASSAGE 
 
 Civilization with its artificial heat, tight bands, 
 careless and unsanitary shop conditions, high heeled 
 shoes and the really r.erve-racking conditions, show their 
 effects in many instances in an obstinate and premature 
 hair loss. 
 
 For this reaecn, intelligent treatments cf the 
 scalp are in great demand and the operator who knows her 
 work must be able to tell what treatment or preparation 
 is indicated, what current to use, how often the treat- 
 ment is to be given and when it is to be used at home. 
 
 The Marinello method accomplishes much because it 
 
 unites the mechanical, electrical and physiological 
 methods in a comprehensive system that will in the great 
 majority of cases shew remarkable results. 
 
 There are enough preparations supplied to care for 
 practically all the ordinary scalp conditions which will 
 be encountered in a shop. 
 
 Before you attempt to treat diseased scalps, always 
 get the consultation and co-operation of a physician. 
 
 The Marinello way teaches: 
 
 First: that the use of antiseptics, tonics , lotions, 
 pomades ard other combinations Vv ill destroy and discour- 
 age the action cf germs on the scalp, restore tone to the 
 surface, and give renewed vitality to the hair, besides 
 relieving either dry or oily conditions always noted 
 when the hair Ions it> excessive. 
 
 Second: Massage stimulates the nerves into action, 
 causing the viso dilators to respond, thus causing a 
 hyperemic condition to the part by allowing more blood 
 to flow to the tissues and muscles and by this action 
 heat is brought into play and catabolic and anabolic 
 changes take place rapidly, thus waste material is car- 
 ried a^ay and a healthy condition of the parts treated 
 is the result. It also makes the surface more pliable 
 and is of great assistance in bringing about a healthy 
 curia i ti. jfi. 
 
 Third: Electricity, properly used, is cf inestima- 
 ble value -because of its action on the general system. 
 It not only is one of the greatest natural tonics known, 
 but is also of 'special benefit to the nervous system. 
 
 The Faraiic Current causes muscular contractions 
 by stimulating the nerves and is exceptionally good for 
 increating the circulation. 
 
-2- 
 
 The High Frequency when applied directly on the 
 skin has a germicidal action and produces an intense sur- 
 face stimulation. 
 
 Either the Negative or Positive Poles of the Gal- 
 vanic Current is used for different lotions, depending 
 upon the chemical aotion desired. 
 
 It will therefore "be recognized that the combina- 
 tion of electricity, the proper manipulation and the use 
 of the antiseptic or stimulating preparations indicated, 
 produce a method of procedure whicn must give results 
 when the directions are followed. 
 
 The cleansing of the scalp with the Follicle Lo- 
 tion is of marked advantage before the beginning of a 
 treatment, as in this manner the surface dirt is dislodg- 
 ed, the fatty secretions removed and the scalp placed in 
 a receptive condition for treatment. 
 
 Follicle Lotion is an astringent and antiseptic 
 preparation, not only valuable for its cleansing proper- 
 ties but of unusual merit as a household germicide, and 
 makes one of the best gargles for sore throats or wash 
 for the mouth and nose cavities. It may be slightly 
 diluted when so used. The price is $1.00. 
 
 Scalp Pomade - an antiseptic ointment excellent in 
 chronic conditions of the scalp such as old eczematous 
 cases or where there has been a condition of psoriasis. 
 For itching scalps this often acts exceedingly well, and 
 may be applied directly after the shampoo. Price $1.00. 
 
 Tar Tonic - for penetrating, stimulating action 
 when the scalp is dry and lifeless and the hair loss is 
 excessive or there is an obstinate and chronic loss of 
 hair. Tar Tonic applied warm or in connection with the 
 treatment is of excellent assistance. Price $1.00. 
 
 Scalp Invigorator - for sensative scalps, where 
 the surface seems inflamed or as an alternate to Tar Ton- 
 ic and Scalp Pomade the Scalp Invigorator is of remark- 
 able value. This preparation is quickly absorbed. Very 
 little is needed to make a complete treatment; hence, the 
 preparation is really economical for use. Price $2.00. 
 
 The student should bear in mind that as oily sub- 
 stances, readily penetrate into the deeper tissues carry- 
 ing with them the antiseptics needed, they are really 
 
-o- 
 
 indicated in the care of every obstinate case, and may 
 be also united with the application of other tonics that 
 are excellent for working purposes. 
 
 The Antiseptic Oil - is also an excellent antisep- 
 tic and may be used in severe cases at full strength, 
 althougn it is "better diluted with castor oil. Always 
 insist on the use of castor oil and never substitude min- 
 eral oil because mineral oils should not be used on the 
 scalp and the full value of tne effort is lost. Price 
 $2.00. Retail $5.00. 
 
 All of these oils act quicker when heated or when 
 applied to the scalp followed by the use of the Blue 
 Light, but in some instances, a slight dermititis may 
 follow such treatments. In such instances it is always 
 well to have at hand "Calmine Lotion which may be applied 
 to scalp or face, and will instantly stop the irritation 
 and decrease any swelling or puffiness. Calmine Lotion 
 $1.00. 
 
 Oily Hair Tonic - as' its name indicates is except- 
 ionally useful for extreme cases of ciliness ana should 
 be used at home as well as during the treatment. Price 
 1 1.00*. 
 
 Dry Hair Tcnic - is of use in stimulating and is 
 also indicated for home use as well as for special work 
 during the treatment. Price $1.00. 
 
 To alternate with either of these the Scalp Invig- 
 orator is excellent as' it has a far reaching effecc. 
 
 All obstinate conditions will require frequent 
 shampoos until the treatment begins to show results. 
 
 • 
 
 Each patron should be reminded to givt the scalp 
 brisk manipulation with the finger tips night and morn- 
 ing in order to aid the shop work. This treatment cay 
 consist of the application of any tonic or other prep- 
 aration indicated. 
 
 For several conditions, shop treatments should be 
 given at least twice a week and better still three times 
 with shampoos at least once in 10 days or when much oil 
 is used every -week. 
 
 Never promise anything for a single treatment, but 
 explain to your patron that as the average HEALTHY HEAD 
 
4- 
 
 of hair grows but six inches a year, it is impossible to 
 promise much under one or two courses of treatments tak- 
 en as you suggest. 
 
 SCALP MANIPULATIONS 
 
 1. 5 partings on front of head - each as follows: 
 Placing fingers in a row on center parting (Frontalis 
 Muscle, supplied by Temp. Br. of Facial Nervw) zig-zag 
 to crown of head or center of Epi cranium, 1-2-3-4-5-6 
 counts, three times. 
 
 2. Placing left hand on Frontalis, right hand rotat- 
 ing on top of shoulder 1-2-3, slide, repeat up to seventn 
 nerve (Manipulating on muscles Platysma, Sterno-cleido- 
 mastoideus, supplied by the Cerv. Br. of Facial also 
 and 3rd Br. Cervical Nerves) vibrate on 7th nerve 1-2-3, 
 reverse movement, fingers spread in hair rotate 1-2-3 on 
 Post Aur., Aur. Sup. and Temp. Facial Muscles supplied 
 by 2nd ana 3rd Br. of Cerv. Nerves. Repeat to nair line 
 Lnree times. 
 
 3. One inch back of shoulder, repeat as above, 
 omitting nerve. (Muscles & Nerves same as above.) 
 
 4. Transfer to opposite shoulder and repeat same 
 as 2 and 3. 
 
 B. Parting hair in middle of back of head (Occip- 
 italis Muscle supplied by Post Aur. Br. of Temp. Nerve) 
 thumbs meeting at base of Cranium, fingers spread each 
 side of head. Rotate with thumbs on Gr. Occipital Nerve 
 1-2 3-4-5-6 counts. Next rotate fingers each side of 
 scalp (manipulating Bpicranius) to hair line three times. 
 
 6. Beginning just beside the spine about 10 inches 
 below the hair line rotate 1-2-3 sliae, repeat to base 
 of oranium, (Trapezius & Occipitalis Muscles - 3rd and 
 4tn Cerv. Nerves). 
 
 Cup Occipitalis Muscle, lift up, draw out, down 
 heavy (one count) on Trapezius Muscle vibrating down on 
 each vertebrae (3rd and 4th Cerv. Nerves) 1-2-3-4-5-6 
 count three times and finally cup the Trapezius. 
 
 7. Transfer to other side, repeat same as above 3 
 times, 
 
 8. Beginning at middle of spine, well down between 
 
■5- 
 
 shoulders, rotate 1-2-3, slide ever to shoulder, three 
 times. (Trapezius Muscle, 3d and 4th Cerv. Serves also 
 Bympathetics) . Cup shoulder 1-2 3, lift up muscle. 
 
 (Platysma and Sterno cleidc-mastoideus, supplied by 2d, 
 3d and 4th Cerv. Kerves) 1-2-3-4-5-6 counts to 7th Nerve. 
 Vibrate on nerve 1-2-3 slide down to 'irst position, 
 repeat three times. 
 
 9. Repeat en other side same as atcve. 
 
 10. Fingers in a row on Frontalis along hair line. 
 Rotate down light, up heavy 1-2-3 (Corrugator Muscle - 
 Supra Orbital Nerve). 
 
 Slide to Temporal, rotate 1-2 3, slide to Temp. 
 Auricular. Rotate 1-2-3, slide to Post Aur. Rotate 1-2-3, 
 bring fingers out in front cf ch:n (Platygi a) draw lack 
 heavy, hands held 1 irmly undtr jaw bones, drawing baok 
 and holding tight P _; s ma Muscl , hum back of head 
 (Occipitalis) lift up, slide fingers back ci ears, up, 
 out, in front of forehead. (i lis). 
 
 11. Headache movement - slice to Temporal , -vibrate 
 1-2-3, three times. Corrugator, supplied oy Tempi 
 
 12. Cupping eyeballs, slide over Cc . .or ar.d 
 Orbicularis Muscles, supplied by Inf ratrochlear Supra 
 Orbital, Palpebral twig of Lachrymal to Temp. Br. of 7th 
 and vibrate 1-2 3 three times, catching the artery in 
 the angle of the jaw on both sides with end of middle 
 linger of each hand. Hold 15 seconds, relax 15 seconds 
 and repeat 4 or 5 times. 
 
 13. Palm of right hand on Frontalis. Palm of left 
 hand on Occipitalis. Fingers spread through the hair, cup 
 Occipital Muscle, rotate with both hands so as to move 
 entire Epicraniu3, 1-2- 3, and stretch it. Withdraw hands 
 from hair with backward ^.weep. 
 
 SCALP TREATMENT - ITS PURPOSE 
 
 To loosen the scalp, increasing metabolism, thus 
 nourishing the hair follicles, strengthening the muscles 
 ana toriing the nerves. 
 
 Although we speak of this as a scalp treatment, the 
 effect is so far reaching that we do not hesitate to say 
 that the entire system is benefited by it, by reason of 
 the fact that the nerves ana blood vessels of the entire 
 

 body are effected by these n anipulHticns. One sitting 
 will prove the benefits derived from this treatment. 
 
 The Follicle Lotion applied at beginning for fol- 
 lowing reasons - cooling, soothing, tonic effect, dis- 
 solves dandruff, permits of close examination of scalp 
 conditions. Price $1.00. 
 
 Scalp Pomade - antiseptic, healing, assists in pro- 
 moting growth of hail', removes dandruff . Frice . , 25. 
 
 The Blue Liglrrt - anti ' c, tonic, penetratii . 
 Acts as a Germicide mildly irritating effect on skin at 
 same time pr. -t on nerves. 
 
 Tonic (Oily) • ng, astringent, tonic 
 
 effect. Frice $1.00. 
 
 01 Li , 
 
 1 . EPo'llicle ] 
 
 h cart aic Current. 
 . ( 1 1 y S< 
 4. .Gal. 
 
 . An t i . . C roni c . 
 
 6. Flue 5 to ,7 mini 
 
 ;d of caring kcr dry scalp 
 
 This treatment is given for the purpose of stir - 
 lating the oil glands, increasing the circulation to the 
 scalp and - asing hair loss cne 1 for this reason cer- 
 t in preparal are indicated and th< use of the elec- 
 tri'd c 
 
 9 first etep 1 cleanse the scalp with the 
 
 Foili'cle I. U preparation sella for $1.00 and 
 1 i of dissolving an accumul tion of seborr- 
 
 hea or i ial on the scalp and thus put it 
 
 in co:i . paration indioa 
 
 . Lore ai e given with the Faraaic 
 C . . quency and the I. « 3py Treatment 
 
 may v a (fo^ .-use it c 
 
 es mdscular - .-actione, thus increat the blood sup- 
 pi , the n< rvous i to greater activ- 
 i . 
 
 e use of the Farad ic Current the Fry Scalp 
 Tonic th cotton and gauze pads and rubbed 
 
7- 
 
 in thoroughly. This Tonic is also recommended for heme 
 use and is sold for $1.00 a bottle. 
 
 Then comes the use of the Negative Galvanic Cur- 
 rent, and the use of the metalic hair brush for twenty 
 minutes being careful to keep this brush at all times in 
 contact with the scalp. By parting the hair carefully 
 and using the brush so that there will be a direct and 
 intimate contact with the scalp, seme may thus be greatly 
 stimulated for the negative current has the effect cf a 
 mild irritant. 
 
 The use of tre Antiseptic Ointment or Scalp Pomaae 
 is now indicated. This should be applied by parting the 
 hair carefully and rubbing it en with a bit of gauze 
 wrapped around an oranr,e wood stick, so that the hair may 
 not become oily. This ointment is strongly antiseptic, 
 has a splendid effect on chronic conditions , i s excellent 
 for use at home and sells for $1.25. 
 
 After the scalp has b^en well anointed the Blue 
 Light may be used over it for about ten minutes for pur- 
 pose of causing a Hyp<=remic condition which aids absorp- 
 tion. In very severe cases the Scalp lnvigorator may be 
 d instead of the Scalp Pomaae. This is an oily, anxi- 
 septic tonic and has an especially good effect on fall- 
 ing hair. It sells for $2.00. 
 
 Where it is uesirabie to produce a very quick 
 
 action the Tar Tonic may be utilized, and absorption 
 
 aided by the Blue Light. This preparation sells for 
 $1.00 and is a great stimulant. 
 
 When any of these oils are used a shampoo should 
 be taken once a week at least and the Dry Tonic may be 
 used at heme every alternate night, using whatever other 
 preparation is indicated on the other night. A brisk 
 rubbing with the finger tips is also indicated for at 
 least ten minutes each night ana a Hot Oil Treatment re- 
 commenced every two weeks. Treatments should be given at 
 least twice a week urtil the condition is improved. 
 
 Never shampco after a treatment - always before it. 
 
 Time for treatment - about forty-five minutes. 
 
HOT OIL TREATMENT 
 
 The scalp treatment that suits the greatest number 
 of conditions is known as the Hot Oil Treatment because 
 the preparations are applied to the scalp warm. This 
 treatment may be used in connection with either the Dry 
 or Oily Scalp Treatment and is always advised before ad- 
 ministering a dye. When the hair is very dry and brittle 
 a number of them are insisted upon in order that the dye 
 shall take uniformly. 
 
 The ever popular Follicle Lotion is used first by 
 sponging the scalp in order to dissolve any fatty mater- 
 ial. This Lotion which seils for £1.00 is such an excel- 
 lent antiseptic that it should be found in every medi- 
 cine cabinet fcr it also acts on the mucou3 membranes and 
 may be used as a mouth and throat wash. 
 
 Next the scalp manipulations are giver, with elec- 
 tricity. They are given with the purpose of increasing 
 the flow of blood to the scalp and making it more plia- 
 ble. 
 
 Tne Antiseptic Oil - a non- irri tat ing antiseptic - 
 is then mixea with castor oil in the proportion of one 
 part of the Antiseptic til to four parts of castor oil — 
 heated, ana applied to the scalp as warm as it can be 
 tolerated. This oil is limited to Shop use and sells for 
 $5.00 a bottle. When the Antiseptic Oil is mixed with 
 mineral or other oil the effect is lost; hence, castor 
 oil should be insisted upon, and in case this treatment 
 is given before a hair dye,the entire length of the hair 
 uld be covered. 
 
 The Prismatic Ray is now used over the oil. This 
 form of electricity stimulates greatly in spite of the 
 resistance offered by the oil and thus improves glandu- 
 lar activity. Wnen applied directly tc the skin it also 
 has a slightly germicidal effect. Fifteen minutes may be 
 consumed in this manner. 
 
 Now comes the use of the Blue Light for five min- 
 utes in order to force the oil into the tissues. 
 
 The head may now be wrapped in tissue toweling and 
 then a hand towel and allowed to remain for one hour and 
 then shampooed. When possible the oil may be left on un- 
 til the next day. 
 
 This treaiment gives a lustre snd softens the hair 
 and places the scalp in a healthy and receptive condi- 
 tion. The treatment should take about an hour. 
 
-2- 
 
 FARAD13U AND THE HOT OIL. 
 
 When it is desired to produce a deeper effect, the 
 Faradic Current may be used in place of the Prismatic 
 Ray, employing it with the finger manipulations before 
 the Hot Oil is applied. 
 
 This treatment admits a number of variations of 
 this kind. In some instances the light may be employed 
 longer and down farther on the spine. In others, a more 
 vigorous manipulation used, all depending on the case. 
 
OILY SCALP 
 
 1. After making patron cc rrfortable , before mirror, 
 remove hair pins and brush hair there 1 I y. Give the 
 scalp a general rub and I n hair out well. 
 
 2. Apply Follicle Lotion with cotton pledget, to 
 entire surface of scalp. Tr e Lotion dissolves the seborr- 
 hoea and serves as a general renovator. It also gives 
 the operator the opportunity to examine the scalp. The 
 Lotion is very benei'icial for home use instructing pa- 
 tron to use it every night. This sells at $1.00 a bottle. 
 
 3. Give the finger manipulations with Faradic Cur- 
 rent paying strict attention to the nerves and muscles 
 ov :;h you operate. 
 
 S9e Scalo Manipulations chart. 
 
 The Faradic Current strengthens the muscles and quiets 
 the nervt. . Tt alsc increases the circulation and gives 
 a general tcnin/? sensation. The manipulations last be- 
 tween fifl and twenty rain * 
 
 4. Apply Oily Scalp Tonic to entire surface of 
 scalp in tne same manner you apply Follicle Lotion. T) 
 Tonic is for the purpose of discouraging the flow of oil 
 from the glands. The Oily Scalp Tonic is very beneficial 
 to use at home. Apply Follicle Lotion first and after 
 this is well massaged into the scalp, apply Oily Scalp 
 Tonic. This sells for $1.00 a bottle. In applying all 
 tonics, oils or pomades, the operator should train her- 
 self to work ver> quickly. Remember that time is money 
 and you cannot hurry with your manipulations or use of 
 electricity and ootain results desired. 
 
 5. Ues Positive Galvanic Current in Brush Electrode 
 letting patron hold tne negative. The Positive Pole clos- 
 es the pores, hardens, decreases the flow of oil and also 
 blood. Tnis brush should be used twenty minutes. The op- 
 erator should be careful to keep the brush on the scalp 
 and not spend any extra time combing through the long 
 r . 
 
 6. If the hair is dark a very small amount of Tar 
 Tonic is apolied to the scalp. The cotton can be wound 
 around a nair pin in such a way that the operator can 
 fjllow the part and not get Tar on the hair. Tar is dry- 
 ing and cnecks the loss of hair. Tar Tonic is $1.00 a 
 bottle ani is sold for home use also. In selling Tar Ton- 
 ic to a patron, always instruct her how to use it and 
 
-2- 
 
 insist that you take no responsibility if she does not 
 follow directions exactly. Tell her to use little at a 
 time and never cover the head with a cloth and keep the 
 heat next to the scalp. There are some skins that cannot 
 tolerate tar and it might set up a severe dermititus. 
 
 7. Use the Blue Light from five to seven minutes. 
 The Blue Light is slightly antiseptic and also assists 
 in forcing the tar or pomade into the scalp. 11 the hair 
 is gray or blonde use the pomade in the saiLe manner you 
 do the Tar being very careful about getting any on the 
 hair. Pomade has a tendency to darken hair a little. It 
 contains some tar. Pomade is the best scalp food on the 
 market and is wonderful for home use. Apply Follicle Lo- 
 tion and then the Pomade. It is an antiseptic and feeds 
 the tissues of the scalp. 
 
 This treatment should take from 45 to 50 minutes. 
 
THE ALTERNATING FOOT BATH 
 
 This "bath is indicated where the system needs ton- 
 ing up and is often given to the entire "body by stepping 
 from a hot snower bath into a cold one. 
 
 Water cold or hot is the • best Therapeutic agent 
 known and nearly all substances are soluble or slightly 
 so in water, thus it can be readily seen that nearly all 
 sediments may be dissolved in water to be absorbed by the 
 "body through the skin, as we well know the functions of 
 the skin to be an absorbing, excretory and secretory organ, 
 also regulating the body temperature and is a covering 
 for the body. 
 
 The Alternating Foot Bath may be used where there 
 is inflammation, redness, swelling, pain, anemia, poor 
 circulation, flabby muscles, to tone up the nerves, to 
 bring on a hyperemic condition, to aid in catabolic and 
 anabolic changes in fevers, dryness in skin, hyperdrosis, 
 anadrosis, burning and itching feet and many other condi- 
 tions, into which your knowledge of the subject will guide 
 you. 
 
 A little good judgment mixed with a little common 
 sense and back bone enough to use them and you need not 
 worry about the future. 
 
 1. The patron is seated comfortably in a chair and her shoes 
 and stockings removed. 
 
 2. Spray the feet with Marinello Foot Lotion. 
 
 3, Two pans large enough to contain the patrons two feet and 
 one gallon of water. 
 
 4, One pan to contain one gallon of water as hot as can be 
 borne, and add 4 Marinello Foot Tablets and two teaspoons- 
 ful of sodium chloride. 
 
 6. One pan to contain one gallon of water cold as patron 
 can stand. 
 
 6. We are now readv for the bath, first submerge the feet in- 
 to the hot water 30 seconds and then into 
 
 7. ^ Cold water for one minute and then into 
 
 8. Hot water one minute and then into 
 
 9. Cold water two minutes and then into 
 10. Hot water two minutes and then into 
 
-2- 
 
 11. Cold water 4 minutes. 
 
 12, Repeat this three more times but keep the feet in hot 
 water only two minutes and in cold water four minutes. 
 
 15. Caution: Always be sure that you end the Alternating Foot 
 
 . th with the colo. \ ter, because the hot water brings 
 
 :*e blcod to the surface and the feet would be gorged 
 
 oh blood. I have seen this happen to the extent that 
 
 the patien. 
 
 14. After removi b feet from the cold water, spray with 
 Lotion and d th clean towel. If there are no 
 other conditions on the feet that need attention, powder 
 tie and dress. 
 
 
FOOT MASSAGE 
 
 1. Undress foot. 
 
 2. Spray foot with Marinello Foot Lotion. 
 
 3. Two hot towels to each foot - one after the other. 
 
 4. Apply Massage Cream. 
 
 5. One hot towel on each foot. 
 
 6. Remove hot towel and apply more Massage Cream, if neces- 
 sary, and proceed to massage one foot at a time, leaving 
 the hot towel on the other foot until you have one foot 
 massaged and then place a hot towel on same and proceed 
 with the other foot. 
 
 7. All the toes - two turns each way. 
 
 Instructions: Grasp the anterior head of the Metatarsal 
 Bone with the thumb ard first finger of the left hand and 
 the distal phalange of the same tee with the thumb and 
 first finger of the right hand and ring the toe in a cir- 
 culatory motion.. 
 
 8. Break down on the Mi ureal Phalango Joint. 
 
 Instructions: Grasp the Metatarsal Bone with the thumb 
 and first finger at its anterior head and with the thumb 
 of the right hand press down on the Proximal Phalange - 
 once to each toe. Do not worry if tho toe snaps. 
 
 9. Break up adhesions between Metatarsal Bones. 
 
 Instruction:;: With the thumb and first finger of the left 
 i. ::u gfatip the Metatarsal b^.ne at its anterior head and 
 with the thumb and first finger of the right hand grasp 
 the anterior head of the second Metatarsal bone and pull 
 up on one bor.i; i nd press down the other. Go across the 
 foot in this manner two times. 
 
 10. - - ik down on the Lor Metatarsal Arch. 
 
 Instructions: With the heel of the left hand placed just 
 posterior to the anterior heads cf the Metatarsal hones 
 the arm in a parallel line with the left. Place the 
 palm of the rigut hand on the dorsal side of the toes and 
 1 ,--c!S3 the plantar side of s;>me onto the left wrist, twice. 
 
 11, B- eak down Anterior Metatarsal Arch crosswise of the foot 
 5 times. 
 
- •■> 
 
 
 Instructions: Place the first fingers of the hands in trie 
 hollow of the -Anterior Metatarsal Arch and the thumbs on 
 the dorsal side of the foot on top of the arch in the en- 
 ter of the foot, bring th t mbs down to the inner and 
 outer' border, thus perfect arch. Dn this with 
 
 pressure. 
 
 12. age the Extensor Haliuci r i don and the four Iongus 
 Digitorum Tei oris. 
 
 In cms: Place the fingers of the 1- nd on the 
 plantar :-:idi i ' t.hi foot and the fingers of the right 
 I -nd on tob of the fingers of the left hand and 
 thumbs on the dorsal side of the foot. Move the thumbs 
 cr< se of the foot a< the I gh so 
 
 fi om ui . mbs bac foi th - - 
 cross . t from the toes to 1 I rer— 
 
 . 
 
 13. . T i L T 4- times. 
 
 Instructions: With the left hand graep the ■ kle at the 
 
 Lor a- with the right i grasp the foot 
 
 ck of the toes and rii th» foot. This loosens up 
 
 the arid Tr: rsus An l, bones and e lates the 
 
 14. i - c 8 times. 
 
 In:;- true tions: Grasp the ankle with the left hand at the 
 
 ■ id with the right hand grasp the f 
 1 palm of the hand is crosswise of the planter 
 side of the foot and the ends of the fingers are on the 
 dorsal side, and with pressure massage in a circulatory 
 from the toes to the heel. 
 
 15. he Os Calcis bone - 5 times. 
 
 Instructions: With the left hand grasp the ankle at the 
 Posterior aspect and with the right hand grasp the Os Cal- 
 cis, so same lies in the palm of the hand and ring in a 
 c i r c I . 
 
 16. King the ankle joint - 5 times. 
 
 Instructions: With the left hand grasp the ankle at the 
 .posterior aspect and with the right hand grasp the foot 
 just posterior to the toes so the palm of the hand lies 
 ainat the plantar side, and proceed to ring the foot us- 
 ing the ankles as the folcum, five times, in one direction 
 
-3- 
 
 and then five times in the other, then have the patron re- 
 sist this movement and again ring the foot two times in 
 each direction. 
 
 17. Strexch the Transversus Crural Ligament at ankle, 6 times. 
 
 Instructions: Grasp the ankle with "both hands and ring in 
 "both directions at the same time. Now leave the left hand 
 at the ankle and witn the right drop down to the dorsal 
 sicte of the Transversus Arch and again ring in both di- 
 rections. 
 
 18. (Stretch Longitudinal Arch - 5 times. 
 
 Instructions: With the heel of the left hand at the Trans- 
 versus Arch on the plantar side of the foot and the Os 
 Culcis lying in the bend of the finger and the arm in a 
 parallel line with the leg. Nov/ with the palm of the 
 right hand parallel with the dorsal side cf the foot 
 press the plantar side of the foot down against the left 
 Vi i ■ i st. 
 
 19. Massage the Gastroneous Muscle from the knee to the Os 
 Calcis. 
 
 Instructions: With the left hand pressing against the An- 
 terior Metatarsal Arch and the heel resting on a stool or 
 foot rest of chair, put pressure against the foot and with 
 tl e right hand massage the gastroneous Muscle from the 
 knee bo the Os Calcis with a circulatory movement, digging 
 deep into the muscle. 
 
 20. Hot towel on each foot - 8 minutes. 
 
 21. Wipe all cream off. 
 
 22. Two cold tcwels to each foot. 
 
 23. Spray with Foot Lotion. 
 
 24. Dry with towol. 
 
 25. Powder same with Foot Powder. 
 
 26. Redress foot after other conditions, if any, have "been 
 taken care of. 
 
- - 
 
 Massage is excellent for the following conditions: 
 
 Anadrosis Infantile Paralysis Muscle Pains 
 
 Hot or Dry Skin .ken Arches Anemia 
 
 ilblains ■. L; jia Fractures 
 
 Cold Feet Aching Feet Dislocations 
 
 Poor Circulation Muscle Strain Strained Tendons 
 Stiff Joints larged Joints Swelli 
 
 Weak Foot and Ankles Atrophy of Muscles Bunions 
 
 Tired, puffy feet 
 
 Also allowing the patron to hold the Auto Condensation 
 
 Tube while a massago is given helps to stimulate the 
 
 nerves to greater activity and more "blood is brought to 
 
 ie surface and broken down tissues are can d away and 
 
 .: cells are "built up very rapidly.. 
 
 Too much stress canr.ot be laid upon the treatment of the 
 feet, as they are the principal members used in locomotion 
 I they certainly are ( ■ ': of the best care obtain- 
 able. One may see a poor defective foot any day but one 
 that is healthy, perfect >, and truly a thing of 
 ■ is seldom seen. 
 
 Through the foot the human body receives more ills than 
 
 ' . any other organ, due to the fact that the foot is left 
 
 to lock after itself and give.; a vary poor chance to do 
 
 so at that. The foot should be looki er just as much 
 
 not more so, than the eye, ear, nose throat or 
 
 ■ .... i hecauae focal infection generally goes to the 
 
 . t. 
 
 Dr. H. J. Crane. 
 
CAUTION 
 
 It does not matter what operative procedure you are 
 about to do - whether it be a Foot Massage, Hydrotherapy 
 Foot Bath, Alternating Foot Bath, Padding, Caring for the 
 Nails, or Fitting Arch Supports - see to it that your 
 hands are scrupulously clean, also see that your patrons' 
 feet are clean - and thus patron and operator are both 
 protected against bacterial invasion. 
 
 In order to clean the hands one may scrub them with 
 a brush, soap and water - hot not cold and clean out the 
 finger nails. After this alcohol 60$ or Phenol b<f or For- 
 maldehyde 1$, Lysel \<f or Marinello Foot Lotion may be 
 poured over thern. They are now clean just so long as you 
 do not handle anything that is not sterile - such as dir- 
 ty towels, shake hands with some one or touch your patrons' 
 feet before they are made clean. 
 
 To sterilize your patrons' feet you may spray them 
 with Foot Lotion, as they have not previous come in con- 
 tact with anything else but the stockings and shoes. 
 
 To sterilize your instruments it is best to boil 
 t.hem about 10 minutes or dip them in Phenol 95$ until the 
 Phenol sticks ana then neutralize in Grain Alcohol 60$ or 
 use Formaldehyde 5$. 
 
 Always be clean and see to it that everything in 
 your booth is clean. This will not oriy protect you and 
 let you r,ay with a clear conscience - "Nobody ever receiv- 
 ed an infection in my place", but it will also inspire in 
 your patron untold confidence ir. ycu as "Cleanliness is 
 next to Godliness " and in tin es it comes first. 
 
 Guard your patrons' health as you would your bank 
 account. 
 
 To illustrate: Mrs. Blank comes into your shop and 
 gets a Manicure . The operator pays no attention to clean- 
 ing her- instruments and Mrs. Blank gets an infection under 
 the edge of the finger n« ll while the operator was cut- 
 ting tne cuticle and part of the Matrix of the nail is 
 < stroyed and an ugly nail has grown out in plain sight 
 for all her friends to see. »C , i s. Blank how did that 
 happen?" and Mrs. Blank comes right out and says "I got 
 
 that infection at Miss - • s Beauty Parlor - so don't 
 
 go there, she- does not keep things clean to protect her 
 patrons" . 
 
 Seme advertisement for you, is it not? 
 
 You cannot keep your person, your shop, your opera- 
 tors, your instruments too clean - if you think they are 
 clean, then clean them some more. 
 
TREATMENT OF TH 
 
 The treatment of the nails is "by no means a matter 
 to "be passed over lightly. If science i ore atten- 
 
 tion years ago to the little thing, as it were today, we 
 would have "been fifty ye: lead of where we are today. 
 
 It is the little tl that co' an c .ve pi 1 
 ure. To illustrace: the surgeon fo Ls 
 
 hands "before doing a very minor operation or forgettir. ; 
 to clean the field of cperaticn, lize 
 
 his instrun its - e al lil as 
 
 they themselves o.but any one of them ;h to caus 
 the patient's death if the right ba any viru- 
 
 lent numbers get into the tissues, it wot Ld 1 'd 
 
 to forget the little filings as it forget ti 
 
 big ones, and you as an o jud what you 
 
 do and how and when you do it. 
 
 For instance, yoi . n ireviously working en some 
 one that had Syphilis ai a were not aware of the person 
 thu3 infected, and you did not t ■ Llize the instrument; 
 you were working and in turn some innocent person 
 takes the chair the Syphilitic person just left and you 
 happen to cu th finger or toe while you are treating 
 the nails, 501 ir" w not wir I appen. Through your neg- 
 lect this person ti expi to ! yphilis and may he your- 
 self, so you it is imp: watch the little 
 things . 
 
 The nail grows? from the .in and is a hard plate 
 that protects the di ital phalange of the fj rs 1 toes. 
 The nail has a root called the 1 just buck of and "be- 
 neath the us Led Lunula. 
 
 The groove is on each side of the nail under the 
 edges. The nail "bed is that tissue upon which the nail 
 grows and 1 1 '3 alo \ tl nail - n times called 
 
 the qui ck "by the laj n 
 
 The "baby's nails curve over the ends of the toes 
 for protection and should not "be cut off at the end of 
 the toe as the adults nails are cut. They should be left 
 overlap the toe half way at least. 
 
 f so care must be taken that babies' nails are not 
 bruited as Traumatism will probably cause injury to the 
 matrix and a crooked or hypertrophied nail will result, 
 al30 the shoes and stockings must be at least one size 
 ai l it would be batter if they are two sizes too long as 
 babies' feet grow and the shoes and stockings do not and 
 h soon catches up with the length of foot gear. It would 
 be better that a baby did not wear a shoe until he walks 
 and then only a soft moccasin. 
 
-<£ — 
 
 The adults' nails should be cut square across and 
 left about 1/52 of an inch longer than the end of the toe. 
 The inside corner of the Dig toe nail and the outside cor- 
 ner of the little tee nail should fc3 slightly rounded so 
 the nail will no hose. 
 
 Hypertrophied nails n . ound do;, th the drill 
 and paper disc. Use ccar paper and do not 
 grind too rapidly, nor the nails too thin as the condition 
 will "become worse instead, of better, but make them look as 
 near like a : 1 as you can. The nail groove 
 
 Ehould "be cleaned cut and cotton packed under the edge of 
 an :' nail to keep the i s from growing into the 
 tissues. 
 
 Solvene -is very : calloused nail 
 groove. The sand disc is very ; i Iso to go over cal- 
 loused spots and horny corn; , coarse Le of r 
 i do no . n two different per- 
 sons. The dir there is only one \ 
 to sterilize t] is to dry heat, so it would not 
 to do . The all sterile when you re- 
 < and if you 1 ci " them you will run 
 : anybody, 
 
HYDROTHERAPY BATH 
 
 Hydrotherapy is as old as the world and is the best 
 medical agent. Without water K-20, Hydrogen and Oxygen, 
 man, animal or plant life could not exist. It may ha ab- 
 sorbed through the skin into the tissues. About 1/15 of 
 the body weight is blood and water raa'ies up the greater 
 part of it, thus a man weighing 156 pounds - 12 pounds' 
 would be blood. A man could live probably 48 days without 
 food, but it would be only a matter of hours without water', 
 
 Medicines and various tissue foods are readily ab- 
 sorbed due to the water that is in them. When you study 
 the skin you will learn that one of its greatest func- 
 tions is absorption. The tissues will absorb more quickly 
 a saline fluid - that i3 the reason that salt is added to 
 baths, thus the tissues absorb tire medicament quickly. 
 Also the skm will absorb fats and oils quickly and these 
 are used alto as a b-ise where medicament is to be applied 
 to the skin. 
 
 Now, having supposed that the hands and all instru- 
 ments and apparatus used in the Hydrotherapy Foot Batn 
 have been sterilized we will begin. 
 
 The things we need are a foot pan large enough to 
 hold the patrons feet and one gallon of water and the 
 water should come up on the patron's feet as high a3 the 
 ankles, the High Frequency, Marinello Foot Tablets and So- 
 dium Chloride and the different unguentum of Marinello 
 for the various conditions of the feet frequently met 
 with. 
 
 1. Remove the shoes and hose from patron. 
 
 2. Spray the feet with Marinello Foot Lotion. 
 
 3. Into the foot pan pour one gallon of warm water. 
 
 4. Into the foot pan place 4 Marinello Foot Tablets and 1 
 teaspoonful of Sodium Chloride. 
 
 5. If the patron has Hvperdrosis or Bromodrosis add 2 tea- 
 spoonsful of Marinellodrosis Solution. 
 
 6. Mow place the patron's feet and the Auto Condensation 
 Tube into the foot pan. 
 
 7. If you wish to give a Facial or Scalp Treatr/ nt or Muscle 
 Strapping, turn on just enough current to -^tjbut if you 
 are not going to give any other treatment curn on the cur- 
 rent full strength and allow the patron/ feet to remain 
 about 15 or 20 minutes. 
 
-2- 
 
 8. Remove feet from the bath and treat the nails if neces- 
 sary or other conditions such as dry skin and so forth. 
 
 9. Spray with Mafinello Foot Lotion. 
 
 10. Dry with towel. 
 
 11. Dust with Marinello Foot Powder. 
 
 12. Redress the feet. 
 
 You may give the Hydrotherapy Foot Bath in the same 
 conditions that you would give a massage but of course, it 
 is not as good for Atrophied Muscles and stimulation of 
 nerves as a general rule to follow it. It is indicated in 
 conditions where massage would be too painful such as 
 dislocations and swollen feet, etc. 
 
 NOTE:- Never use Faradic or Galvanic current in massage 
 or any other way in the same treatment where Hydrotherapy 
 treatment of any nature is b, iven. 
 
FOOT PREPARATIONS 
 
 1. Griswold Stick - this preparation is very good to spread 
 over an inflamed area such as a bunion, also used to stick 
 on pads, as it comes in stick form and same must "be heated 
 over a flame until it is soft enough to spread. 
 
 2. Phenolene - this may he used freely in an open wound and 
 is a good antiseptic. Can he used as a wet dressing and 
 in cases of inflammation and is excellent for its healing 
 properties , 
 
 3. Bucalo - this comes in a tube and in this way the product 
 is sterile as no mere need be squeezed out than you in- 
 tend to use. It is one of the best preparations that can 
 be used for dry scaly conditions of the skin, also for 
 fissures between the toes. It heals these conditions up 
 very quickly. 
 
 4. Butrix - Put up in sterile tubes and is used solely for 
 inflamed conditions. 
 
 5. Medicated Collodion - paint over callousites, tender sur- 
 1 tees and small wounds. 
 
 6. Marinellodro3is - used for Hyperdrosis and Bromodrosis , 
 and will positively work wonders in these cases. 
 
 7. Foot Tablets - used in connection with Hydrotherapy and 
 Alternating Foot Baths. Nothing better. 
 
 8. Massage Cream - this is put up in cubes under antiseptic 
 conditions and is especially prepared and medicated for 
 the conditions of the fe 
 
 9. Foot Powder - this powder contains special ingredients 
 for foot troubles - put up in a carton shaker and is very 
 carefully prepared as to the amount of each ingredient 
 and their antiseptic and healing qualities. 
 
 10. Antiseptic Foot Ointment for painful and swollen joints, 
 Do not use on broken skin. 
 
 11. Solvene - useful in the nail groove to dissolve cuticle 
 or to 3often a corfl o ■ caLIou . 
 
 12. Foot Lotion - an antiseptic to spray on the feet before 
 i i after the massage, Hydrotherapy Bath, Alternating Bath 
 
 r care of the nails. This is a very cooling lotion albO 
 and is very delightful to a hot surface. 
 
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