8F 
 
 7T\\ 
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 Issue] June 27, 1908. 
 
 U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, 
 
 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.— BULLETIN 105. 
 A. D. MK1.VIN, Chief ok Bureau. 
 
 VARIETIES OF CHEESE 
 
 DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 
 
 BY 
 
 C. F. DOANE, M. S., 
 
 Assistant Dairyman, Dairy Division, 
 AND 
 
 H. W. LAWSON, M. S,, M. D., 
 
 Off ice. of Experiment Stations, Department of Agriculture . 
 
 WASHINGTON: 
 
 GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
 1908. 
 

 Issued June 27, 1908. 
 
 U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, 
 
 BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.— Bulletin 105. 
 
 A. D. MELVIN, Chief of Bureau. 
 
 H 
 2 V 
 
 VARIETIES OF CHEESE: 
 
 DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 
 
 BY 
 
 C. F. DOANE, M. S., 
 
 • Assistant Dairyman, Dairy Division, 
 AND 
 
 H. W. LAWSON, M. S., M. D., 
 
 Office of Experiment Stations, Department of Agriculture . 
 
 WASHINGTON: 
 GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
 
 1908. 
 
 ,,^ 
 
 <S 
 
THE BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 c^ \* V 
 
 Chief: A. D. Melvin. ' > fvV 
 
 Assistant Chief ; A. M. Farrington. >P\, 
 
 Chief Clerk: E. B. Jones. - 
 
 Biochcmic Division: M. Dorset, chief; James A. Emery, assistant chief. 
 
 Dairy Division: Ed. H. Webster, chief; C. B. Lane, assistant chief. 
 
 Inspection Division: Rice P. Steddom, chief; Morris Wooden, R. A. Ramsay, 
 and Albert E. Behnke, associate chiefs. 
 
 Pathological Division: John R. Mohler, chief; Henry J. Washburn, assistant 
 chief. 
 
 Quarantine Division: Richard W. Hickman, chief. 
 
 Division of Zoology: B. H. Ransom, chief. 
 
 Experiment Station: E. C. Schroeder, superintendent; W. E. Cotton, assistant. 
 
 Animal Husbandman: George M. Rommel. 
 
 Editor: James M. Pickens. 
 
 DAIRY DIVISION. 
 
 Chief: Ed. H. Webster. 
 Assistant Chief: C. B. Lane. 
 
 Dairy farming investigations, B. II Rani in charge. 
 
 Southern dairying: B. H. Rawl, S. E. Barnes, J. E. Dorman, T. E. Woodward, 
 C. 0. Moser, J. C. Guthrie, and A. K. Risser, assistant dairymen; Duncan Stuart, 
 assistant in dairying; J. A. Conover, scientific assistant in dairying; H. P. Lykes 
 and J. T. Eaton, agents in dairying. 
 
 Dairy records: Wm. Hart Dexter, assistant dairyman. 
 
 Dairy products investigations, L. A. Rogers in charge. 
 
 Butter: John L. Sherk, expert; W. S. Smarzo and P. H. Kicffer, collaborators. 
 
 Cheese: C. F. Doane, A. W. Dox, and Charles Thorn, assistant dairymen; T. W. 
 Issajeff, expert cheese maker; J. W. Moore, F. R. Thomson, experts in dairying; S. K. 
 Suzuki, collaborator; L. D- Bushnell, expert in dairy bacteriology. 
 
 Milk secretion: R. H. Shaw, assistant dairyman; A. E. Perkins, scientific assistant; 
 A. H. Douglass, assistant chemist; J. O. Halverson, expert in dairy chemistry. 
 
 Milk: L. A. Rogers, bacteriological chemist; C. R. Potteiger, dairy bacteriologist. 
 
 Organization and management investigations. 
 
 Creameries, drafting and designing: B. D. White, assistant dairyman, in charge; 
 C. W. Fryhofer, sci-ghtific assistant; H. J. Credicott and J. G. Winkjer, assistant 
 dairymen; Robert McAdam, inspector; K. E. Parks, architect. 
 
 Market milk service: C. B. Lane, assistant chief, in charge; G. M. Whitaker, dairy 
 inspector; Ivan C. W r eld, assistant dairyman. 
 
 Renovated butter inspection. 
 
 M. W. Lang, dairy inspector, in charge, 22 Fifth avenue, room 510, Chicago, 111.; 
 Levi Wells, dairy inspector, 6 Harrison street, New York, N. Y.; S. B. Willis and 
 H. P. Olsen, deputy inspectors. 
 
 rr-r 8 1908 
 D.otD. 
 
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 
 
 U. S. Department of Agriculture, 
 
 Bureau of Animal Industry, 
 Washington, D. C, January 18, 1908. 
 Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith, and to recommend 
 for publication as a bulletin of this Bureau, a manuscript entitled 
 "Varieties of Cheese: Descriptions and Analyses." This paper was 
 prepared under the direction of the chief of the Dairy Division by 
 C. F. Doane, assistant dairyman in that division, and H. W. Lawson, 
 of the Office of Experiment Stations. 
 
 The work is a compilation of descriptions and analyses of all the 
 varieties of domestic and foreign cheese about which it has been 
 possible to obtain such information in the literature bearing upon 
 the subject. In a number of cases only meager details could be 
 secured, and owing to the size of the work the descriptions are neces- 
 sarily of a very condensed nature. 
 
 Acknowledgment is made of the courtesies and assistance ex- 
 tended by the Office of Experiment Stations in the preparation of 
 this bulletin. 
 
 Respectfully, A. D. Melvin, 
 
 Chief of Bureau. 
 Hon. James Wilson, 
 
 Secretary of Agriculture. 
 
 3 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Introduction 5 
 
 Descriptions of varieties of cheese 7 
 
 Analyses of cheese 56 
 
 Sources of analytical data 63 
 
 Index 69 
 
 4 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The amount of cheese imported into the United States is increas- 
 ing rapidly. During the 6 years from 1900 to 1905, inclusive, the 
 value of the imports increased from $1,946,033 to $3,875,161. Italy 
 and Switzerland supplied the bulk of this cheese, most of the re- 
 mainder coining from France and Holland. The best known of the 
 varieties of cheese imported were the Parmesan and Gorgonzola 
 from Italy, the Emmental from Switzerland, the Roquefort, Camem- 
 bert, and Brie from France, and the Edam from Holland. The 
 growing demand for cheese is not, however, confined to these well- 
 known varieties, much interest being manifested in many kinds as 
 yet of very little commercial importance but highly esteemed in the 
 localities where produced. 
 
 Attempts have long been made in this country to imitate some of 
 the European varieties and in some instances the results have been 
 decidedly successful. The manufacture of Swiss, or Emmental, and 
 of Limburg types has become well established. The investigations 
 conducted at the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Station in Con- 
 necticut have shown that cheese of the Camembert type, equal in 
 every way to the imported article, may be produced in the United 
 States. This Department is cooperating in investigations of this 
 kind and recently results have been obtained which make it prac- 
 tically certain that a cheese of the nature of Roquefort or Stilton 
 can likewise be produced in this country. 
 
 Information concerning the manufacture and composition of the 
 numerous varieties of cheese is not very accessible to English readers 
 and the apparent need of some work of reference, in connection at 
 least with the importation and home production of cheese, has, 
 therefore, led to the preparation of the descriptive notes and the 
 compilation of the analytical data contained in this bulletin. 
 
 The descriptions are, for the most part, based upon data contained 
 in treatises on dairying and in articles in foreign periodicals. While 
 in many instances they are very incomplete and possibly at times 
 inaccurate, they nevertheless contain in condensed form practically 
 all the important information that it has been possible to secure in 
 
 5 
 
6 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 an extended search through the literature relating in any way to 
 the subject. Owing to the large number of publications consulted, 
 it has seemed impracticable to give references to the descriptive 
 matter. 
 
 The analyses have been compiled in most instances from the original 
 publications. In all cases, however, the sources of the data have 
 been given in the list of references which follows the table of analyses. 
 No effort has been made to collect the numerous analyses of filled 
 cheese, and in the case of American Cheddar cheese only a part of 
 the available data has been included in the compilation. 
 
DESCRIPTIONS OF VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 ABERTAM. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from sheep's milk in the region of Carlsbad, 
 Bohemia. 
 
 ALEMTEJO. 
 
 This name is applied to rather soft cheeses made in the province of Alemtejo, Portu- 
 gal. They are cylindrical in shape and are made in three sizes averaging in weight 
 about 2 ounces, 1 pound, and 4 pounds, respectively. They are made for the most 
 part from the milk of sheep, though goat's milk is often added, especially for the 
 smaller sizes. The milk is warmed and curdled usually with an extract prepared 
 from the flowers of a kind of thistle. The cheeses are ripened for several weeks. 
 
 ALPIN. 
 
 This is a kind of Mont d'Or cheese made in the Alpine regions of France. It is also 
 known as Clerimbert. The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two hours. 
 The curd is dipped into molds 3 to 4 inches in diameter and 2\ inches in height. The 
 cheese is allowed to drain and is turned several times during one day, after which it 
 is salted and ripened for eight to fifteen days. 
 
 ALTENBURG. 
 
 This is a goat's-milk cheese made in Germany, where it is known as Altenburger 
 Ziegenkii.se. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter, 1 to 2 inches in thickness, and weighs 
 about 2 pounds. 
 
 AMBERT. 
 
 This cheese, known as Fourme d'Ambert, is a cylindrical-shaped imitation Roque- 
 fort cheese made from cow's milk. It is said to differ from other forms of blue or imi- 
 tation Rocpiefort cheese made in the southeastern part of France in that the salt is 
 mixed with the curd rather than rubbed on the surface of the cheese. 
 
 ANCIEN IMPERIAL. 
 
 The curd is prepared in the same manner for this cheese as for Neufchatel. The 
 cheese is about 2 inches square and one-half inch thick. It is also known as Petit 
 Carre' and when ripened as Carre Affine. The cheese is sold and consumed both while 
 fresh and after ripening. The ripening process is not essentially different from that 
 of Neufchatel. 
 
 APPENZELL. 
 
 This cheese, which is very similar to Fmmental, is made in the Canton of Appenzell, 
 Switzerland, and also in Bavaria and Baden. It is usually made of skim milk but 
 sometimes of whole milk. 
 
 BACKSTEIN. 
 
 Backstein, meaning brick, is so called from its shape, but it is not identical with the 
 Brick cheese made in the United States. The process of manufacture is similar to 
 that of Liinburg. 
 
 7 
 
8 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 BANBURY. 
 
 This was a soft, rich cheese, very popular in England in the early part of the nine- 
 teenth century. It was a cylindrical cheese about 1 inch thick. 
 
 BARBEREY. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its name from the 
 village of Barberey near Troyes, France. It is also commonly known as Fromage de 
 Troves. The milk while still fresh and warm is coagulated with rennet, the time 
 allowed being usually about four hours. The uncut curd is put into a wooden mold 
 having a perforated bottom. After draining for three hours the cheese is turned into 
 an earthenware mold, the wooden one being removed alien - twenty-four hours. The 
 cheeses are salted, dried in a well-ventilated room, and ripened for about three week&, 
 usually in a subterranean curing room. In summer the cheese is often sold without 
 ripening. A cheese is 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1]- inches in thickness. 
 
 BATTLEMAT. 
 
 This is an Emmental cheese made in the Canton of Tessin, Switzerland, in the 
 western part of Austria, and in the northern part of Italy. It is recommended for 
 localities where a great quantity of milk can not be obtained. The cheese is circular 
 in form, about 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches high, and weighs from 40 to 80 
 pounds. It is cooked at a slightly lower temperature than the Emmental and is a 
 little softer when ripened. It ripens more rapidly than the Emmental, being ready 
 for market in about four months. 
 
 BAUDEN. 
 
 Baudenkase is a sour-milk cheese made in the herders' huts in the mountains be- 
 tween Bohemia and Silesia in essentially the same manner as Harzkase. It is made 
 up in two forms, one conical with a diameter and a height of 3^ inches, and the other 
 cylindrical, with a diameter of 5 inches and a height of 2\ inches. It is also known 
 locally as Koppenkase. 
 
 BELGIAN COOKED. 
 
 The milk which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously is skimmed and the curd 
 heated to 135° to 140° F. and then placed in a cloth and allowed to drain. When 
 dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is allowed to undergo fermentation, which 
 takes ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. 
 When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated 
 gently and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and allowed to ripen 
 for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs about 3^ pounds. It is not essen- 
 tially different from other forms of cooked cheese. 
 
 BELLELAY. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole milk and sometimes called Tete de 
 Moine, and Monk's Head. This cheese originated with the monks of the Canton of 
 Bern, Switzerland, in the fifteenth century, and is made exclusively in that locality 
 at the present time. 
 
 The sweet milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in twenty 
 to thirty minutes. The curd is cut comparatively fine and is stirred while being 
 heated slowly to a temperature of 110°. It is cooked much firmer than Limburg 
 and not so firm as Emmental. 
 
 When cooked the curd is dipped into wooden hoops lined with cloth. The cheeses 
 are pressed in rotation for a few minutes at a time, one press being used for a number 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 9 
 
 of cheeses. After pressing, tln> cheeses arc wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks, or 
 until they arc firm enough to require do support. They are cured in a moist cellar 
 at a comparatively low temperature, as it is not desired to have eyes develop. The 
 
 cheese when ready for market lias a diameter (if 7 inches and weighs from 9 to 15 pounds. 
 It ripens in about twelve months and will keep for three or four years. It has a soft, 
 buttery consistency and can be spread on bread for eating. 
 
 BERGQUARA. 
 
 This is a Swedish cheese resembling Grouda. It was known in Sweden in the eight- 
 eenth century. 
 
 BLEU. 
 
 The names rate Bleu and Fromage Bleu are applied to several kinds of hard rennet 
 cheese made from cow's milk in imitation of Roquefort cheese in the southeastern part 
 of France. Owing to the mottled, marbled, or veined appearance they are also desig- 
 nated Fromage Persille. Among these are Gex, Sassenage, and Septmoncel. This 
 name is also applied locally to several more or less distinct kinds made in the regions 
 of the Auvergne and Aubrac mountains and designated Bleu d'Auvergne, Cantal, 
 (iuiolc or Laguiole, and Saint flour. Other cheeses of this order mentioned as made 
 in France are Queyras, Champoleon, Sarraz, and Journiac'. 
 
 BOUDANNE. 
 
 This is a French cheese made from cow's milk. The milk, either whole or skimmed, 
 is heated to about 85° F., sufficient rennet is added to secure coagulation in one hour, 
 and the curd is cut to the size of peas, stirred, and heated to 100° or above. After 
 si anding for ten to fifteen minutes the curd is pressed by hand and put into molds 8 
 inches in diameter and 3 inches in height. The cheeses are drained, turned fre- 
 quently, salted, and ripened for two to three months. 
 
 BOX (FIRM). 
 
 This cheese, known in different localities where made as Hohenburg, Mondsee, and 
 Weihenstephan, is made from whole cow's milk and is a rather firm rennet cheese. 
 The flavor is said to he mild hut piquant. The milk is heated to 90° to 93° F. in a 
 kettle, is colored with saffron, and set with sufficient rennet to curdle it in twenty to 
 t wenty-five minutes. The curd is cut up as fine as peas and the contents of the kettle 
 arc heated very slowly to a temperature of 105°, being stirred meanwhile. The 
 fire is then removed and the curd allowed to settle for five minutes, when the whey 
 is dipped off. The curd is then dipped into a cloth and from this is scooped into 
 hoops. Light pressure is applied and in fifteen minutes the cheese is turned, and the 
 turning is repeated frequently for several hours. The cheese is kept in a well-venti- 
 lated room at (i()° for three to live days, after which it is taken to the cellar. It is 
 salted by rubbing or sprinkling salt on the surface. Ripening requires from two to 
 three months. The cheese weighs from 1 to -1 pounds, and is undoubtedly similar to 
 the Brick cheese of the United States. 
 
 BOX (SOFT). 
 
 This is a rennet cheese made from partially skimmed cow's milk and known locally 
 as Schachtelkase. It is a rather unimportant variety produced in Wurttemberg in a 
 small locality called Ilohonheim, a name which the cheese often takes. 
 
 In making this cheese the skimmed evening's milk is mixed with the whole morn- 
 ing's milk, or a pari of the milk is skimmed with a centrifuge and is mixed with an 
 equal volume of whole milk. The cheese is made in a, copper kettle. The milk is 
 wanned to 110° F., colored with saffron, and rennet added. It is allowed to stand for 
 30022— Bull. 105— OS 2 
 
10 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 one to one and one-half hours before cutting. The curd is cut into rather coarse par- 
 ticles, after which it is allowed to stand for a few minutes, when the whey is dipped 
 off, and for every 200 pounds of milk used a small handful of caraway seed is added. 
 The curd is then dipped into hoops 6i inches in height and the same in diameter. It 
 remains in these hoops for ten hours and is frequently turned, after which it is trans- 
 ferred to a wooden hoop only one-half as high, where it remains for twelve hours. The 
 cheese is then sprinkled with salt and put in the ripening cellar, where it remains 
 about three months. 
 
 A soft rennet cheese known as Fromage de Boite is made in the mountains of Doubs, 
 France, in the fall. It resembles Pont l'Eveque. 
 
 BRA. 
 
 This cheese is made by nomads in the region of Bra in Piedmont, Italy. It is a hard 
 
 rennet cheese weighing about 12 pounds. The milk, which is partly skimmed, is 
 
 heated to about 90° F., and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate it in thirty to forty 
 
 minutes. The curd is cut to the size of rice grains and the whey removed after about 
 
 one-half of an hour. The curd is put into a form about 12 inches in diameter and 3 
 
 inches in height and subjected to pressure for twelve to twenty-four hours. It is 
 
 salted by immersion in brine and also by sprinkling salt on the surface. The 
 
 cheese is then ripened. 
 
 BRAND. 
 
 This is a German hand cheese weighing about one-third of a pound, made from sour- 
 milk curd cooked at a little higher temperature than ordinarily practiced. The curd 
 is salted and allowed to ferment one day. It is then mixed with butter, pressed into 
 shape and dried, and finally placed in kegs to ripen, during which process it is mois- 
 tened occasionally with beer. 
 
 BRICK. 
 
 The exact derivation of this name is not known. It may have been adopted because 
 of the shape, or because of the fact that bricks are used almost exclusively for weight- 
 ing down the press. ' Brick cheese is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's 
 milk, and is purely an American product. In characteristics it is about halfway 
 between Limbing and Emmental. It has a strong, sweetish taste, a sort of elastic 
 texture, and many small round eyes or holes. It is made about 10 by 6 by 3 inches 
 in size. There are many factories making this product, especially in southern 
 Wisconsin. 
 
 Perfectly sweet milk is set in a vat at 86° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 
 twenty to thirty minutes. The curd is cut with Cheddar curd knives, and is then 
 heated to 110° to 120° and stirred constantly. The cooking is continued until the 
 curd has become firm enough so that a handful squeezed together will fall apart when 
 released. The curd is then dipped into the mold, which is a heavy rectangular box 
 without a bottom and with slits sawed in the sides to allow drainage. The mold is 
 set on the draining table, a follower is put on the curd, and 1 or 2 bricks are used on 
 each cheese for pressure. The cheeses are allowed to remain in the molds for twenty- 
 four hours, when they are removed, rubbed all over with salt, and piled three deep. 
 The salting is done each day for three days, after which the cheese is taken to the 
 ripening cellar, which should have a temperature of from 60° to 65° and be compara- 
 tively moist. Ripening requires two months. 
 
 BRICKBAT. 
 
 This is a rennet cheese made as early as the eighteenth century in Wiltshire, Eng- 
 land. It is made from fresh milk, to which a small portion of cream has been added. 
 The milk is set at about 90° F. and allowed to stand two hours before the curd is 
 disturbed. The curd is cut coarse, dipped into wooden forms, and light pressure 
 applied. The cheese is said to be fit for consumption for one year after being made. 
 
VABIETIES OF CHEESE. 11 
 
 BRIE. 
 
 i 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The cheese varies in size and 
 also in quality, depending on whether whole or partly skimmed milk is used. The 
 method of manufacture closely resembles that of Camembert. 
 
 This cheese has been made in France for several centuries. Mention was made of 
 it as early as 1407. It is made throughout France, but more extensively in the Depart- 
 ment of Seine et Marne, in which it doubtless originated. This Department contains 
 Meaux, Coulommiers, and Melun, places noted for their manufacture of Brie cheese, 
 though often under local names. More or less successful imitations of this cheese are 
 made in other countries. It was estimated that 7,000,000 pounds of Brie cheese was 
 sold in Paris during 1900. The export trade is also very important. 
 
 The milk used is usually perfectly fresh. It is not uncommon, however, to mix the 
 evening's milk, when kept cool over night, with the morning's milk. Some artificial 
 coloring matter is added to the milk, which is then set with rennet at a temperature 
 of 80° to 85° F. After standing undisturbed for about two hours the curd is dipped 
 into forms or hoops, of which there are three sizes in common use. The largest size is 
 about 15 inches in diameter, the medium size about 12 inches in diameter, and the 
 smallest size about (i inches in diameter. These vary in height from 2 to 3 inches. 
 Alter draining for twenty-four hours without pressure being applied, the hoops are 
 removed and the surface of the cheese is sprinkled with salt. Charcoal is sometimes 
 mixed with the salt used. The cheese is then transferred to the first curing room, 
 which is kept dry and well ventilated. After remaining in this room for about eight 
 days, the cheese becomes covered with mold. It is then transferred to the second 
 curing room or cellar, which is usually very dark, imperfectly ventilated, and has a 
 temperature of about (i0° F. The cheese remains here for from two to four weeks or 
 until the consistency and odor indicate that it is sufficiently ripened. The red colora- 
 tion which the surface of the cheese finally acquires has been attributed to an organism 
 designated Bacillus firmatatis. The ripening is due to one or more species of molds 
 which occur on the surface and produce enzyms which in turn cause a gradual and 
 progressive breaking down of the casein from the exterior toward the center. The 
 interior of a ripened cheese varies in consistency from waxy to semiliquid and has a 
 very pronounced odor and a sharp characteristic taste. 
 
 BRINSEN. 
 
 This cheese, known locally as Laudoch, Zips, Liptau, Siebenburgen, Neusohl, Alt- 
 sohl, and Klencz, is made in the Carpathian Mountains of Silesia from sheep's milk, 
 or a mixture of sheep's and goat's milk. 
 
 The cheese is made in small lots, only 2 to 4 gallons of milk being used at one time. 
 This is put into a kettle when fresh and sufficient rennet is added with the milk at a 
 temperature of from 75° to 85° F. to secure coagulation in fifteen minutes. The curd 
 is broken up and the whey dipped and the curd is placed in a linen sack and allowed 
 to drain for twenty-four hours. It is then cut into pieces and placed on a board, where 
 with frequent turnings it is allowed to remain until it commences to get smeary, which 
 requires about eight days. The pieces are then laid one on top of another in a vessel 
 holding from 40 to (iO pounds, where they remain for twenty-four hours, after which 
 they are removed, the rind cut away, and the curd or partially cured cheese broken up 
 in another vessel. After ten hours salt is stirred in and the curd run through a mill 
 which cuts it very fine, when it is packed in a tub with beech shavings. 
 
 BROCCIO. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese made from sheep's milk in Corsica. It is sometimes mixed 
 with sugar and rum and made into small cakes. It is similar to Ziger. 
 
12 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 BURGUNDY. 
 
 This cheese, known in France as Fromage de Bourgogne, is described as a soft, white, 
 loaf-shaped cheese weighing about 4 pounds. 
 
 CACIOCAVALLO. 
 
 This is a somewhat peculiar kind of cheese made from either whole or partly skimmed 
 cow's milk. Various explanations have been made as to the origin of the name, which 
 means literally horse cheese. One explanation offered is that the cheese was originally 
 made in the region of Monte Cavallo, and another is that the imprint of a horse's 
 head was made in each cheese as the trade-mark of the original manufacturer. The 
 original home of this cheese was southern Italy, but it is now made extensively in 
 northern Italy as well. The history of the cheese dates back several centuries. 
 
 The temperature of the coagulation of the milk with rennet varies greatly but is 
 usually from 90° to 95° F. The time allowed for coagulation is also variable, being 
 usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut very finely and sometimes allowed to 
 ferment for twenty-four hours, when it is heated by means of very hot water, or more 
 commonly hot whey, and subsequently worked by hand until all the whey is expressed 
 and the curd becomes homogeneous and capable of being drawn out into long threads. 
 It is then molded into any desired shape and salted by immersion in brine for about 
 two days. The cheeses are suspended in pairs from the ceiling and lightly smoked. 
 The surface may be rubbed with olive oil or butter. They are kept in a cool, dry 
 room until sold. As seen on the market they vary much in size and shape. On an 
 average they weigh about 3 pounds. The most common shape is that resembling a 
 beet, a constriction near the top being due to the string which is tied around the cheese 
 for the purpose of hanging it up. This cheese is s< >met imes eaten while comparatively 
 fresh but is more frequently kept for months and then grated and used for flavoring 
 soups and as an addition to macaroni and similar foods. A small quantity is imported 
 into the United States. 
 
 CAERPHILLY. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made in Wales from unskimmed cow's milk. The milk 
 is set very sweet at a temperature of 85° F. with enough rennet to coagulate it in one 
 hour. The curd is cut in tj-inch cubes and stirred for one hour without further heating. 
 It is then put in cloths and subjected to light pressure for an hour and is again broken 
 up fine and put to press, where it remains with daily changing for three days. During 
 this time one-half ounce salt to each pound of curd is rubbed on the surface. Each 
 cheese weighs about 8 pounds. The cheese requires about three weeks for ripening, 
 at a temperature of G5 to 70°. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet English cheese made from cow's milk. Milk is set at 90° F. and 
 rennet added. At the jnd of one hour the curd is dipped into molds without cutting 
 a"nd allowed to stand for thirty hours, when it is ready for eating. 
 
 CAMEMBERT. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. A typical cheese is about -It 
 inches in diameter and 1{ inches thick and is usually found on the market in this 
 country wrapped in paper and inclosed in a wooden box of the same shape. The 
 cheese usually has a rind about one-eighth of an inch in thickness which is composed 
 of molds and dried cheese. The interior is yellowish in color and waxy, creamy, or 
 almost fluid in consistency, depending largely upon the degree of ripeness. 
 
 Camembert cheese is said to have originated in 1791 in the locality from which it 
 derives its name in the Department of Orne, in the northwestern part of France. The 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 13 
 
 industry extended soon into Calvados, and these two Departments are still the prin- 
 cipal seat of the industry. Cheese of the same type, however, is made in other parts of 
 France and also in other countries; among these are Compiegne, Contentin, Pavilion, 
 Soumaintrain, and Thui y-en-Valois. Very successful results have been obtained at 
 the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Station in Connecticut. 
 
 Camembert cheese is made from whole fresh milk or from milk which has been 
 partly skimmed. The evening's milk may be skimmed and mixed with the fresh 
 morning's milk. The temperature of setting is about 80° to 85° F., and the quantity 
 of rennet, added for this purpose is sufficient to secure the desired degree of firmness in 
 about- two hours. The curd is then transferred, usually with as little breaking up as 
 possible, to perforated tin forms or hoops about 4} indies in diameter and (he same 
 in height. These resl upon rush mats which permit free drainage. The Idling of the 
 forms may be done at two or three limes separated by short, intervals allowed for the 
 curd to settle. Each form holds the equivalent in curd of about 2 quarts of milk. 
 After draining for about eighteen hours, and preferably in a room having a uniform 
 temperature of (;r>° to 70°, the cheese is turned. This is repeated frequently for about 
 two days, when the cheese is removed from the forms and sailed on the outside. Two 
 or three days later the cheese is transferred to a well-ventilated room where the ripen- 
 ing process begins. The cheese remains here for fifteen to twenty days, during which 
 lime it is turned very frequently and the surface becomes covered with molds, which 
 gradually produce a breaking down of the casein. It, is then taken to the curing 
 cellar, where the ripening process is completed in about three weeks, when it is packed 
 and marketed.. 
 
 CANQUILLOTE. 
 
 This is a skim-milk cheese made in the eastern part of France. It is also known 
 locally as Fromagere, and Tempeto. The milk is allowed to coagulate spontaneously, 
 after which it is heated gently and the whey drawn off. The curd is pressed in order 
 lo remove as much of the whey as possible, crumbled fine, and fermented at, a temper- 
 ature of about 70° F. for two or three days, during which time it is stirred frequently. 
 When the cheese has acquired its characteristic taste it is melted with the addition of 
 water, salt, eggs, and butter and put into molds of various kinds. 
 
 CANTAL. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk more or less skimmed. Its 
 manufacture is extensive in the Department of Cantal, France. It, is also known as 
 Auvergne or Auvergne Blue on account of its being manufactured in the region of the 
 Auvergne Mountains. Locally the cheese is commonly known as Fourme. The 
 cheese is doubtless a very old variety and the method of manufacture has remained 
 cpute primitive. The milk^usually fresh but sometimes several hours old, is set, with 
 rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., the time allowed for coagulation being about 
 thirty minutes. The curd is then cut very finely and the whey dipped off. The curd 
 is subjected to pressure in order to remove as much of the whey as possible, and is 
 allowed to ferment for twenty-four hours, which process is considered very important. 
 The curd is then broken up by hand or by machinery and salted at (he rale of 2.5 to ?. 
 per cent. When thoroughly kneaded it is put into hoops about 14 inches in diameter. 
 Pressure is applied for about two days, during which time it is turned very frequently. 
 The cheese is next transferred to the curing cellar, where it remains for six weeks to 
 six months. The yield of cheese is usually 10 to 11 per cent of the weight of the milk. 
 A ripened cheese weighs from 40 to 120 pounds. 
 
 champol£on. 
 
 Champoh'on, or Queyras, is a hard rennet cheese made from skim milk in the 
 Department of Hautes-Alpes, France. 
 
14 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 CHAOURCE. 
 
 This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its 
 name from the village of Chaource, in the Department of Anbe, France. It is about 
 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick. 
 
 CHASCHOL DE CHASCHOSIS. 
 
 This cheese is made in the Canton of Grisons. Switzerland. It is a hard rennet 
 cheese made from skimmed cow's milk. The cheeses are IS to 22 inches in diameter, 
 3 to 4 inches high, and weigh from 22 to 40 pounds. 
 
 CHEDDAR. 
 
 This cheese is so named from the village of Cheddar in Somersetshire, England, 
 where it was first made. It is a comparatively old cheese, though the genuine 
 Cheddar process as it is now known is not old. Cheddar cheese is an exceedingly 
 popular variety, being much used as a food product in America and England. It is 
 probably the most important of all cheeses as regards the quantity made annually. 
 The term Cheddar as used at the present time applies usually to a process of making 
 rather than to any particular shape of cheese. The name however, is occasionally 
 used to designate a certain size of cheese 14 to 16 inches in diameter, and weighing 
 from 60 to 100 pounds. Cheese made by the Cheddar process has. however, many 
 different shapes with distinguishing names, such as Flats, which have the same 
 diameter as the Cheddar size but weigh only 30 to 40 pounds; Daisies, which are 12 
 inches in diameter and weigh 20 pounds: Young Americas, which are 8 inches in 
 diameter and weigh 8 to 12 pounds; Long Horns, which are 5 inches in diameter 
 and weigh 12 pounds; and Squares, which are of various sizes and usually 3 to 4 
 inches thick. The cheese may be white or colored yellow, and it may be almost 
 fresh or thoroughly ripened and broken down. It is made from sweet cow*s milk, 
 which may be skimmed, partly skimmed, or unskimmed, When made from un- 
 skimmed milk the cheese is called •full cream;" when otherwise, it is called "part 
 skim" or "skim." 
 
 The milk, morning's and evening's mixed, is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet to 
 coagulate to the proper point in from twenty-five to forty minutes. At the time of 
 setting the milk should have an acidity of about 0.18 to 0.20 per cent. Color may 
 or may not be used. The curd is cut when it breaks evenly before the finger. The 
 cutting is done with curd knives. These knives are made up of blades set about 
 one-third of an inch apart in frames. In one frame the knives are set perpendicularly 
 and in the other horizontally. When well cut the curd is in uniform cubes of about 
 one-third of an inch. 
 
 Alter cutting the curd is heated slowly and with continued stirring until it reaches 
 a temperature of from 96° to 108°. With the use of mechanical agitators, as is the 
 common practice, the cu«d should be heated about 4 degrees higher than when stirring 
 is done by hand. After heating the stirring is continued intermittently until the 
 curd is sufficiently firm. This is determined by squeezing a handful, which should 
 fall apart immediately on being released. The whey is then drawn. At the same 
 time the acid should have reached about 0.20 per cent or one-fourth of an inch on the 
 hot iron, which latter is determined by measuring the length of strings when the 
 curd is touched to a hot iron. The curd is then matted about 4 inches deep, some- 
 times in the bottom of the vat. sometimes on racks covered with a coarse linen cloth. 
 After it has remained here long enough to stick together it is cut into rectangular 
 pieces easy to handle, which are turned frequently and finally piled two to four 
 deep; in the meanwhile the temperature of the curd is kept at about 90°. When 
 the curd has broken down until it has the smooth feeling of velvet, which requires 
 from one to three hours, it is milled bv means of a machine, which cuts it into pieces 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 15 
 
 the size of a finger. It is then stirred <>n the bottom of the vat until whey ceaa 
 run. which requires from one-half to one and one-half hours, when it is salted at tin- 
 rat'- of 2 to 2\ pounds of salt to 100 pounds of milk. It is then ready to put in pi 
 The curd is put into tinned iron hoops of the proper size, which are lined with 
 cheese-cloth bandages. The hoops are put in presses and great pressure is applied 
 by means of screws. The next morning the cheese is removed from the hoops and 
 put on shelves in a curing room. Formerly the cheese was kept in a curing room as 
 long as six months, but at the present time it is covered with a coat of paraffin and 
 put in cold storage when three to twelve days of age. There is a growing demand 
 on the part of consumers for mild cheese, and consequently ripening must be carried 
 on at a temperature below 50°. 
 
 An important point in the process of manufacturing Cheddar cheese is the develop- 
 ment of the desired amount of acid. A maximum quantity in the whey that can 
 be developed without injuring the texture of the cheese is aimed at. and the proper 
 breaking down of tin- curd before milling and salting is attributed to the acid. It 
 is very probable thai too much weight has been placed on the desirability of a maxi- 
 mum development of acid, and that practically as good cheese can be produced 
 without the high acid. 
 
 CHESHIRE. 
 
 This cheese is one of the oldest and most popular of the English varieties. It is a 
 rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk, and is named for Chester County, 
 England, where it is largely produced. It is made in cylindrical shape from 14 to 16 
 inches in diameter, and weighs 50 to 70 pounds. In making this cheese sufficient 
 annatto is used to give the product a very high color. The process of manufacture 
 varies in detail in different sections. Perfectly sweet milk, night's and morning's 
 mixed, is set at a temperature of from 75° to 90° F. The curd is cut in one hour, 
 usually with an instrument in which knives are set in a frame to cut cubes 1 to 1\ 
 inches square. This is pushed down through the curd and finally worked back and 
 forth at an angle. This is continued until the particle.-: of curd are the size of peas, 
 which requires about one hour. The curd is then allowed to settle and mat on the 
 bottom of the vat for about an hour, when it is rolled up to one end, weighted down, 
 and the whey drawn after the desired degree of acidity has been obtained. The curd 
 is cut in pieces the right size to handle and is piled on racks. It is then run through 
 a curd mill, Baited at the rate of 3 pounds to 1,000 pounds of milk, and put into a 
 hoop having a number of holes in the side through which skewer.- can be thrusl into 
 the cheese to promote drainage. The cheese in the hoop is put in a heated wooden 
 box called an oven, and sometimes light pressure is applied, the pressure increasing 
 gradually until it reaches about 1 ton. The curing cellar or room is about 60° to 65°. 
 From eight to ten months is required for thorough ripening. 
 
 CHESHIRE-STILTON. 
 
 This is a combination of the Cheshire and Stilton varieties of cheese in which the 
 general characteristics of size and shape and manufacture of the Cheshire is retained, 
 and a growth of the mold peculiar to Stilton is secured. The mold is secured by 
 keeping out each day a small portion of curd and mixing it with some curd in which 
 the mold is growing well. 
 
 CHIAVARI. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese made in the region of Chiavari, Italy, from whole cows' 
 milk. It is also known as Cacio Romano. A hard rennet cheese made in the same 
 region is also known by this name. 
 
16 VAEIETIES OP CHEESE. 
 
 COMMISSION. 
 
 This cheese is made in Holland and resembles Edam in the process of manufacture, 
 but it has a slightly different shape, being flattened at the ends. It is said to be made 
 from whole cow's milk. 
 
 COTHERSTONE. 
 
 This is a rennet cow's-milk cheese made in Yorkshire, England, and resembles the 
 well known Stilton cheese of that country. It is a local product manufactured only 
 on a small scale. It has also been known as Yorkshire-Stilton. 
 
 COOKED. 
 
 This kind of cheese is so called because the curd is heated to the melting point in 
 its manufacture. It is made from fresh curd prepared by breaking up and heating 
 the cttrd of sour clabbered milk. When cooled sufficiently this curd is placed in a 
 receptacle and allowed to stand for three or four days until it has become colored 
 throughout. It is then put into a kettle over a lire; salt, milk, and usually caraway 
 seed are added, and the whole is stirred vigorously until it becomes of the consistency 
 of thick molasses, or until it strings when a spoon is withdrawn. The mass can then 
 l»c put into molds until it becomes cold, or placed in a vessel for keeping. It gets 
 hard with cooling and will retain the shape of the mold. 
 
 Cooked cheese, made in northern Germany, is called Topfen, and a similar product 
 made in Sardinia is called Freisa, and Paneddas. The same kind of cheese made in 
 Belgium is called Belgian cooked cheese. Similar kinds are made in other countries. 
 
 COTTAGE. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese made extensively in this country, where it is often called 
 Dutch cheese, and Smear-case. It is manufactured usually in a very small way, 
 but occasionally it is made in large factories. Skim milk is allowed to sour and the 
 curd is then broken up and held at a temperature of about 100° F. for three to four 
 hours, or until it has become sufficiently firm. The whey is then drained off and the 
 curd placed under slight pressure for a time. The curd is either consumed imme- 
 diately or is packed in tubs and placed in cold storage. It is prepared for eating by 
 moistening with either milk or cream. Sometimes it is made up into shapes and 
 wrapped in tin foil. No ripening is ever allowed. 
 
 COULOMMIERS. 
 
 This is a small-sized Brie cheese 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1 inch in thickness, 
 and weighing about 1 pound. It is made in the region of < 'oulommiers, France. 
 
 CREAM. 
 
 Genuine cream cheese ; s made from a rich cream thickened by souring, or from 
 sweet cream thickened with rennet. This is put in a cloth and allowed to drain, the 
 cloth being changed several times during the draining, which requires about four days. 
 It is then placed on a board covered with a cloth, sprinkled with salt, and turned 
 occasionally. It is ready for consumption in from live to ten days. 
 
 Another variety of cream cheese is made from cream with a low content of fat (12 to 
 15 per cent). The cream is curdled with rennet, broken up to allow a part of the 
 whey to escape, and is then mixed and worked into almost a paste. This is then 
 molded into pieces weighing 2 to 4 ounces, which are wrapped in tin foil and placed 
 on the market without curing. It is a very mild and a very rich cheese and is manu- 
 factured on an extensive scale by a few large factories in the United States. 
 
 A so-called double-cream cheese, known in France as Fromage Double Creme, is 
 made by coagulating a mixture of milk and cream and putting this into a cloth and 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 17 
 
 allowing it to drain thoroughly, when it is salted, kneaded, and molded into any 
 desired shape. It is eaten fresh. The Gervais is a cheese of this kind. 
 
 A French cream cheese, Fromage a la Creme, is prepared by mixing sweet cream 
 with well-ripened sour-milk curd or rennet curd. Another French cream cheese, 
 which contains considerable salt as a preservative, is known as Demi-sel. There are 
 in addition several cream cheeses having specific names, such as Philadelphia cream. 
 
 CREUSE. 
 
 This is a skim-milk farm cheese made in the Department of the same name in 
 France. Coagulation is secured either by the addition of a small quantity of rennet 
 or by heating the sour milk. When set with rennet the period required is usually 
 twelve hours. The curd is put into earthenware molds about 7 inches in diameter 
 and 5 to 6 inches in height, the bottom and sides being perforated. After draining for 
 several days the cheese is removed from the molds, salted, and turned frequently. 
 It becomes in time very dry and hard and may be preserved for a year or longer. The 
 cheese is also ripened by placing in tightly closed receptacles lined with straw, in 
 which case it becomes yellow and soft and acquires a very pronounced taste. 
 
 CRISTALINNA. 
 
 % 
 
 This a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the Canton of Graubiinden, 
 Switzerland . 
 
 DAMEN. 
 
 This is a soft uncured rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Hungary and is much 
 in demand in the markets of Vienna. It is sometimes known as Gloire des Montagnes. 
 
 DANISH EXPORT. 
 
 This cheese is made in some of the creameries of Denmark to furnish an outlet for 
 the skim milk and the buttermilk. In the process of manufacture as high as 15 per 
 cent of fresh buttermilk is added to the skim milk. The mixture is set at 98° F. with 
 sufficient rennet to coagulate in twenty-five minutes. The curd is carefully and 
 evenly cut, stirred for a few minutes, dipped into forms having rounded bottoms, 
 kneaded, pressed down, and finally covered with a board upon which a weight is 
 placed. Twelve hours later the cheeses are placed in a brine tank for twenty-four 
 hours, when they are taken out and covered with salt for a short time. They are then 
 transferred to the ripening room where the temperature is about 55° and are turned 
 and wiped with a cloth every day for five weeks. The cheeses are cylindrical in shape 
 and are small and flat. 
 
 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk in Derbyshire, England. 
 It is cylindrical in shape and about the size of the Cheshire, though often smaller. It 
 is made usually in farm dairies, and because of this fact the size varies with the size 
 of the herd. The quality also varies to such an extent that very few really good 
 cheeses can be found. Night's milk in which the development of acid has been 
 prevented as much as possible is mixed with the morning's milk and the whole is set 
 at a temperature of 80° F. The setting period is one hour and the curd is allowed to 
 become very firm before cutting. The curd is cut to the size of a pea and after being 
 allowed to settle is piled in the center of the vat, where after the whey is removed it is 
 subjected to light pressure. The curd is cut and again piled and heavier pressure 
 applied. This is repeated until the curd reaches a certain degree of firmness, when it 
 is run through a mill and salted at the rate of 1 pound of salt to 1,000 pounds of milk. 
 It is then put in a press for one hour, when it is removed and the surface of the cheese 
 scalded for one minute in water heated to 150°. It is put back in the press for five 
 
 30022— Bull. 105—08 3 
 
18 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 hours, the pressure applied being gradually increased, when it is salted on the surface 
 and again pressed. The pressing continues for three days, the cheese being salted 
 each day. The curing room is kept preferably at 60°, and the time required for curing 
 is from three to fovir months. 
 
 A cheese called Gloucester made in the county of Gloucester, England, is said to 
 be identical with Derbyshire cheese. Double Gloucester is identical with single 
 Gloucester in all respects but size. It is twice as thick as a single Gloucester, hence 
 the name. Wiltshire, Leicestershire, and Warwickshire cheeses belong to the Der- 
 byshire type. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE CREAM. 
 
 In making this cheese the cream is allowed to rise for several hours, when the milk 
 with the layer of cream is scalded. It is then set away for a short time in order that 
 the layer of cream may harden. The cream is then put into small molds and placed 
 upon straw mats to drain. After becoming hard enough to retain its shape it is ready 
 for market. 
 
 DORSET. 
 
 Dorset, or Blue Dorset, is a cheese resembling in character and method of manu- 
 facture the better known Stilton. It is named from Dorsetshire, England, in which 
 it is made. 
 
 DOTTER. 
 
 This cheese is said to have been made by G. Leuchs, in Nurnberg, by mixing the 
 yolk of eggs with skim milk and making this mixture into cheese in the usual way. 
 
 DRY. 
 
 This cheese, known also as Sperrkase and Trockenkase, is made in the eastern part 
 of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol, in the small dairies of those localities. It is 
 an extremely simple product made for home consumption, and is made only in the 
 winter season, when the milk can not be profitably used for other purposes. As soon 
 as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire. 
 Here it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken 
 up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway 
 seed are added and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a 
 drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating. 
 
 DUEL. 
 
 This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow's milk. It is an Austrian prod- 
 uct, 2 by 2 by 1 inches in size. 
 
 DUNLOP. 
 
 This was formerly the national cheese of Scotland, but it has been almost super- 
 seded by the Cheddar, which it resembled. 
 
 EDAM. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese produced in Holland; it is also known as Katzenkopf, 
 Tdte de Maure, and Manbollen. The best of the product is made of unskimmed cow's 
 milk, but much of it at the present time is made from milk which has had at least 
 one-half of the fat removed. The cheeses are round and are colored deep red on the 
 surface or wrapped in tin foil. 
 
 The perfectly fresh milk is set at 90° to 95° F. Color is added and sufficient rennet 
 is used to coagulate the milk in fifteen minutes. The curd is cut and after a very short 
 stirring is allowed to settle to the bottom, when the whey is dipped off. The curd is 
 gathered in a pile and pressure is applied for a short time to expel the whey. Care is 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 19 
 
 taken in the meanwhile that the curd docs nol gel below 82° or above 00°. The curd 
 is then ready for the press. Sometimes wooden molds are used, bul the best are made 
 of iron. An attempt is made to put just sufficient curd into the mold to make a perfect 
 sphere when pressed. When the mold is half full a little salt is added. When the 
 mold is full, it is pressed lightly until the cheese will hold its form, when it is taken out 
 and immersed in water for two minutes at 125°. The cheese is then put in the press, 
 where it remains for twelve hours. It is then removed from the mold and placed in 
 another form resembling the mold but without a cover, and having a hole leading from 
 the bottom. The cheese is salted by rubbing salt on the surface. Sometimes il is 
 kept in a .salt bath for a day before putting salt on the surface. Following the salting, 
 the cheese is washed in hot whey, and the surface is scraped smooth. It is then taken 
 to the ripening cellar, which should have a temperature of between 50° anil 70°. Here 
 it is turned daily for a time and finally twice a week. In the meanwhile it is occasion- 
 ally moistened with cold water or fresh beer. When the cheese is one month old it is 
 washed in water at 70° for twenty minutes and then placed in the sun to dry, after 
 which it is rubbed with linseed oil. Before shipping the cheese is colored, usually 
 red, but for some markets it is colored yellow with annatto. This coloring is done with 
 a watery solution of litmus and Berlin red, or with carmine. A considerable quantity 
 of this cheese is imported into the United States. At the present time some Edam 
 cheeses are inclosed in air-tight tins for export. 
 
 ELBING. 
 
 This is a West Prussian hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk which, during the 
 winter, is partly skimmed but at other times left whole. It is known also as Werder- 
 kase, and Niederungskase. Enough rennet is added to the milk at a temperature of 
 80° F. to coagulate it in from fifteen to thirty minutes. The curd is cut and cooked to 
 100°, salted in the granular state, and pressed for twelve hours. A cheese is 10 to 20 
 inches in diameter and 3 to 4 inches in thickness. Ripening requires about one month 
 at a temperature of 75°. 
 
 EMMENTAL. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk, and has a mild, 
 somewhat sweetish flavor. It is characterized by holes or eyes which develop to about 
 the size of a penny in typical cheeses and are situated from 1 to 3 inches apart. Chees< \ 
 of the same kind made in the United States is known as Domestic Swiss, and that made 
 in the region of Lake Constance is called Algau Eminental. Other local names are 
 Bellunese, Formaggio Dolce, Fontine d'Aosta, and Thraanen. 
 
 Emmental cheese originated in the Canton of Eminental, Switzerland. It is a very 
 old variety. In the middle of the fifteenth century a cheese probably of this type 
 was manufactured in the Canton of Emmental. In the middle of the seventeenth 
 century the industry was well developed and genuine Emmental cheese was being 
 exported. In 1722 its manufacture under the name of Gruyere is recorded in France, 
 two cooperative societies having been organized for this purpose. 
 
 Emmental cheese is now manufactured in every civilized country. In the United 
 States there are many factories, located principally in Wisconsin, New York, ami 
 Ohio. In Switzerland the greater part of the milk produced is made into this product, 
 and large districts in France and northern Italy are devoted to its manufacture. The 
 best of the product made in Switzerland is exported, about 5,000,000 pounds coming 
 to tlic United States annually. The imported cheese sells in this country at about 25 
 cents a pound wholesale, and the domestic cheese sells at about 14 cents. Practically 
 as good cheese can be manufactured in the United States as in Switzerland, but 
 prejudice, combined with the fact that much of the domestic product is sold as 
 imported, has held the price at a low level. 
 
 There is a slight difference in manipulation of the milk in making Emmental 
 cheese in this country as compared with Switzerland. In the latter country the 
 
20 VAEIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 evening's and morning's milk are made up together, while in the United States it 
 is popularly believed that the evening's milk must be made into cheese immediately 
 after milking, as is done with the morning's milk. 
 
 In making the cheese in Switzerland the evening's milk is skimmed; the fresh 
 morning's milk is heated to 108° to 110° F. and the cream from the evening's milk 
 is added and well stirred in. The cooled evening's milk with a little saffron is then 
 added and the whole is mixed. The milk is then brought to a temperature of 90° 
 in summer and 95° in winter and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate the milk 
 in thirty to forty minutes. The whole process is carried through in a huge copper 
 kettle holding 300 gallons of milk. The rennet used is the calf's stomach soaked 
 for twenty-four hours in whey. When the milk has thickened to almost the desired 
 point for cutting, which is practically the same as for ordinary American or Cheddar 
 cheese, the thin surface layer is scooped off and turned bottom side up. This is 
 supposed to aid in incorporating the layer of cream with the cheese. The curd is 
 then cut very coarse by means of a so-called harp. The cheese maker with a wooden 
 scoop in each hand then draws the mass of curd toward him, that lying on the bottom 
 of the kettle being brought to the surface. At this point the cheese maker and an 
 assistant commence stirring the curd with the harp, a breaker having first been fitted 
 to the inside of the kettle to interrupt the current of the whey and curd. The harps 
 are given a circular motion and cut the curd very fine — about the size of wheat ker- 
 nels or smaller. 
 
 After this stage is reached heating is commenced. In Switzerland all of the heat- 
 ing until recently was done over an open fire, the kettle being swung on a large crane, 
 and most of the factories have the same method at the present time. In this country 
 the same method was followed in the early days of the industry, but at the present 
 time inclosed fireplaces into which the kettle can be swung and doors closed to retain 
 the heat are largely employed. This takes away much of the discomfort of the oper- 
 ation. In a few instances the kettles are set in cement and an iron car containing 
 the fire is run under it. The more modern factories employ steam, and this appears 
 to be the most satisfactory way. When the heating is begun the contents of the kettle 
 are brought rapidly to the desired temperature, which may be from 126° to 140°, the 
 higher temperature often being necessary to get the curd sufficiently firm. The stir- 
 ring in the meanwhile continues for about one hour, with slight interruptions near 
 the end of the process when the curd has become so firm that it will not mat 
 together. The end of the cooking is determined by the firmness of the curd, which 
 is judged by matting a small cake with pressure by the hands and noting the ease 
 with which this cake breaks when held by the edge. 
 
 When the curd is sufficiently firm the contents of the kettle are rotated rapidly 
 and allowed to come to a standstill as the momentum is lost. This brings all the 
 curd into a cone-shaped pile in the center of the kettle. One edge of a heavy linen 
 cloth resembling burlap is wrapped around a piece of hoop iron and by this means 
 the cloth is slipped under the pile of curd. The mass of curd is then raised from 
 the whey by means of a rope and pulley and lowered into a cheese hoop on the 
 draining table. These hoops are 4 to 6 inches deep and vary greatly in diameter. 
 The cloth is folded over the cheese, a large follower is put on top, and the press is 
 allowed to come down on the cheese. The press is usually a log swung at one end 
 and operated by a double lever. Pressure is continued for the first time just long 
 enough for the curd mass to retain its shape. The hoop is then removed, the cheese 
 turned over, and a dry cloth substituted. The cheese is allowed to remain in the 
 press about twenty-four hours, during which time it is turned and a dry cloth sub- 
 stituted several times (six or more). 
 
 At the end of the pressing the curd should be a homogeneous mass without holes. 
 The cheese is then removed to the salting board, covered with a layer of salt, and 
 turned occasionally. In a day or two it is put in the salting tank in a brine strong 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 21 
 
 enough to float an egg; it remains here at the discretion of the cheese maker for one 
 to four days. Often no brine tank is used with Emmental cheese. 
 
 The cheese is then taken to the curing cellar. In the best factories two or more 
 cellars with different temperatures are available and the cheeses are placed in them 
 according to the way the cheese maker thinks their development requires. If it 
 appears that the cheese may develop too fast and have too many and too large eyes, 
 the cheese is placed in a cool cellar; if the reverse is true, a warm cellar is selected. 
 The cellars vary in temperature from 55° to 65°, though in extreme cases 70° or a 
 little higher may be used. While the cheeses are in the ripening cellar, which in 
 Switzerland may be six to ten months or longer, and in the United States- three to six 
 months, they should be turned and washed every other day for the first two or three 
 months and at longer intervals subsequently, and at the same time a little coarse 
 salt is sprinkled on the surface. In a few hours this* salt has dissolved and the brine 
 is spread over the'surface with a long-handled brush. 
 
 The cheeses are very large, about 6 inches in thickness and sometimes as much 
 as 4 feet in diameter, and weigh from 60 to 220 pounds. In shipping, a number 
 of them are placed in a tub which may contain 1,000 pounds of cheese. Sometimes 
 Emmental cheese is made up in the form of blocks instead of like millstones. The 
 blocks are about 28 inches long and 8 inches square in the other dimensions. 
 
 ENGADINE. 
 
 This is made in the Canton of Graubunden, Switzerland, and is a rennet cheese 
 made from unskimmed cow's milk. 
 
 ENGLISH DAIRY. 
 
 This name is applied to a very hard cheese, made in the same general way as Ched- 
 dar, but cooked much more. This cheese has been made mostly in the United States. 
 It is used for culinary purposes. 
 
 EPOISSE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the Depart- 
 ment of Cote d'Or, France. 
 
 ERVY. 
 
 This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its 
 name from the village of Ervy, in the Department of Aube, France. A cheese is 
 about 7 inches in diameter, 1\ inches thick, and weighs about 4 pounds. 
 
 FARM. 
 
 This cheese, made in France, and known variously as Fromage a la Pie, Mou, Maigre, 
 and Ferme, is essentially the same as our Cottage cheese. The method of making is 
 very simple. When the skimmed milk has become curdled the whey is poured off 
 and the curd kneaded and molded into various sizes and shapes. Draining is some- 
 times hastened by placing a board and weight upon the curd. Salt and sometimes 
 sweet cream are added. The cheese is consumed usually on the farm where made 
 either while fresh or after it has undergone fermentation. 
 
 FILLED. 
 
 Filled cheese is the name applied to cheese from which the butterfat has been re- 
 moved and foreign fats added. The foreign fat is added by stirring it violently in the 
 milk and setting with sufficient rennet to coagulate quickly. The rest of the manu- 
 facture is the same as for Cheddar cheese. Filled cheese was very extensively manu- 
 factured in the United States for a number of years, but State and Federal laws have 
 made this no longer practical. Many of the European varieties of cheese are counter- 
 feited or adulterated in the same manner. 
 
22 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 FLOWER. 
 
 This cheese is so named because it is made with the addition of the petals of various 
 kinds of flowers, such as roses and marigolds. It is a soft-cured rennet cheese made 
 in England from whole cow's milk. 
 
 FORMAGELLE. 
 
 This is a small soft ripened rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the northwestern 
 part of Italy. 
 
 FORMAGGINI. 
 
 This name is applied to several kinds of small Italian cheeses. The kind designated 
 Formaggini di Lecco is a smaH'cylindrical dessert cheese weighing about 2 ounces, 
 made in the region of Lecco, in Lombardy. It is consumed while fresh and sweet and 
 at all stages of ripening until it becomes very piquant. Sometimes salt, pepper, 
 sugar, and cinnamon are mixed with this cheese, and occasionally oil and vinegar are 
 added. The method of manufacture is not essentially different from that of other soft 
 cheeses. Cow's milk is used with the addition at times of some goat's milk. Rennet 
 is added to the warmed milk, which is then allowed to stand for twenty-four hours at a 
 temperature of about 55° F. The curd, with as little breaking up as possible, is allowed 
 to drain for three to four hours, when it is salted and put into cylindrical molds about 
 1\ inches in diameter and 2 inches high. 
 
 FROMAGE FORT. 
 
 Several kinds of cooked cheese prepared in France are known by this name. In 
 the Department of Ain, Fromage Fort is prepared by melting well-drained skim-milk 
 curd, putting the melted mass into a cloth, and subjecting it to pressure and afterward 
 1 nuying it in dry ashes in order to remove as much of the whey as possible. The mass 
 is then grated fine and allowed to ferment for eight to ten days, after which milk, 
 butter, salt, pepper, wine, etc., are added to it, and the mixture is allowed to undergo 
 further fermentation. 
 
 Canquillote, Caneoillotte, or Fromagere, prepared in the eastern part of France, is a 
 cheese of this kind, as is also the Fondue, or cooked cheese, of Lorraine. 
 
 GAMMELOST. 
 
 Gammelost is made in Norway from skimmed sour milk. The milk is cooked or 
 warmed in a kettle and allowed to stand for one hour while the precipitated casein 
 gathers at the bottom. This is taken up in a cloth and the whole is put into a form 
 where light pressure is applied . The cheese still in the cloth in the form is put in the 
 hot whey for an hour, when it is again placed under pressure for a short period. It 
 is put in a warm place and turned daily. At the end of fourteen days it is packed in 
 a chest with wet straw. The cheeses vary in weight from 24 to 65 pounds. 
 
 GAUTRAIS. 
 
 This is a cylindrical cheese weighing about 5 pounds and very closely resembling 
 Port du Salut. It is made in the Department of Mayenne, France. 
 
 GAVOT. 
 
 This cheese is made from cow's, sheep's, or goat's milk in the Department of Hautes- 
 Alpes, France. 
 
 GEHEIMRATH. 
 
 This is a cheese made in small quantities in Holland. It resembles a small Gouda 
 cheese in quality and process of manufacture. It is colored a deep yellow. 
 
varieties of cheese. 23 
 
 gerome. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made in the mountainous regions of the Vosges, France. 
 The name is a corruption of Gerardmer, a village in the region where the cheese has 
 been made for at least fifty years. The variety is very similar to Minister, but not so 
 well known. 
 
 Cow's milk is used almost exclusively, though at times a little goat's milk is added. 
 The fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 80° to 90° F. In about 
 one-half hour after adding the rennet the curd is cut into rather large cubes and allowed 
 to stand for about one hour when the whey is dipped off. The curd is then put into 
 cylindrical forms or hoops 6 to 7 inches in diameter. Formerly these were made of 
 wood, one being placed upon another, making a total height of 14 to 15 inches. They 
 are now being made also of tin and in various sizes. The cheeses are turned after G 
 hours and again after 12 hours. During the next two or three days they are turned 
 twice daily, the hoops being changed each time. A room temperature between G0° 
 and 70° is desired during this process. The cheeses are then salted, the amount of 
 salt used being from 3 to 3.5 per cent of the weight of the cheese. 
 
 The cheeses are then placed in a well- ventilated room for several days and when 
 sufficiently dry are transferred to the curing cellar. Here they are turned frequently 
 and worked with warm salt water to prevent the growth of molds. Ripening requires 
 from six weeks to four months, depending upon the size of the cheeses, which vary in 
 weight from one-half pound to 5 pounds or more. Anise is sometimes incorporated 
 with the curd before put ting into the forms. Such cheese when old often has a greenish 
 appearance. 
 
 GERVAIS. 
 
 This is a French cheese made from a mixture of whole milk and cream. The mix- 
 ture is set with rennet at about 65° F., the time required being about 12 hours. The 
 curd is then inclosed in cloth and hung up to drain. When sufficiently dry it is 
 salted and pressed into molds. The molds are soon removed and the cheese is wrapped 
 in paraffin paper. The cheese is usually consumed while fresh, but may be kept for 
 several days. 
 
 GEX. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk. It belongs to the class of blue 
 or marbled cheese known in France as Fromage Persille, which includes Sassenage, 
 Septmoncel, and several other kinds resembling Roquefort. It is made principally 
 in the southeastern part of France and derives its name from the town of Gex in the 
 Department of Ain, where the cheese has been made for at least sixty years. There 
 has been little tendency for the industry to extend to other regions than that in which 
 it originated, and even here it is said to be diminishing. 
 
 Rennet is added to the fresh milk as soon as possible after milking. The time 
 allowed for coagulation is one and one-half to two hours. The curd is then broken up 
 and stirred until the mass is in a semiliquid condition, when it is allowed to stand 
 for about ten minutes. After the curd has settled to the bottom of the vat the whey 
 is drained off. The curd is then worked by hand, salted lightly, and put into hoops 
 about 12 inches in diameter and 5 inches in height. In about one hour the cheese is 
 turned and a disk and weight placed upon it. The turning is repeated three or four 
 times a day, the hoops being removed at the end of the first day. After salting, the 
 cheese is taken to the curing room, where it soon acquires a bluish appearance, due 
 to the development of a penicillium. This mold is not introduced into the interior 
 of the cheese during making by means of mottled bread, as is the case with Roquefort 
 cheese. The ripening process, which requires from three to four months, is completed 
 in cellars or natural caves. A ripened cheese weighs from 14 to 15 pounds.' 
 
24 VAK1ETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 GISLEV. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow's milk. 
 
 GLUMSE. 
 
 This cheese is made from sour skimmed milk in western Prussia. The thickened 
 milk is placed over a slow fire at about 105° F. and is cooked as long as any whey is 
 expelled. The cooking may be done by pouring hot water into the milk. After 
 cooking, the curd is removed from the whey with a perforated dipper and is allowed to 
 drain in a hair sieve. Milk or cream is added to the cheese just before eating. This 
 is evidently a cottage cheese. 
 
 GOAT'S MILK. 
 
 There are a large number of goat's-milk cheeses, many of which are not designated 
 by local names. In France some of these are known by the names Chevret or Chev- 
 rotin, in Italy as Formaggio di Capra, and in German-speaking countries as Ziegenkase 
 or Gaiskasli. Among those in France to which local names have been attached are 
 Gratairon, Lamothe, and Poitiers. 
 
 The Gaiskasli is a soft cheese made in certain parts of Germany and Switzerland. 
 The milk is set with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in about 40 minutes. The curd is 
 then broken up, stirred, and dipped into cylindrical molds about 3 inches in diameter. 
 The mold is filled sufficiently to make a cheese 1\ to 2 inches thick and weighing one- 
 half pound. The mold is set on a straw mat which allows the whey to drain freely, 
 and salt is sprinkled on the surface. In two days the cheese is turned and the other 
 surface is salted. The cheese requires about three weeks to ripen and is said to have a 
 very pleasant flavor. 
 
 A kind of cheese is made in Norway by drying goat's milk by boiling, fresh milk or 
 cream sometimes being added during the process. 
 
 GORGONZOLA. 
 
 This variety, known also as Stracchino di Gorgonzola, is a rennet Italian cheese 
 made from whole cow's milk. The name is taken from the -village of Gorgonzola, near 
 Milan, but very little of this cheese is now made in that immediate locality. The 
 interior of the cheese is mottled or veined with a penicillium much like Roquefort, 
 and for this reason the cheese has been grouped with the R-oquefort and Stilton varie- 
 ties. As seen upon the markets in this country, the surface of the cheese is covered 
 with a thin coat resembling clay, said to be prepared by mixing barite or gypsum, lard 
 or tallow, and coloring matter. The cheeses are cylindrical in shape, being about 12 
 inches in diameter and G inches in height, and as marketed are wrapped in paper and 
 packed with straw in wicker baskets 
 
 The manufacture of Gorgonzola cheese is an important industry in Lombardy, where 
 formerly it was carried on principally during the months of September and October, 
 but with the establishment of curing cellars in the Alps, especially near Lecco, the 
 manufacture is no longer confined to this season. 
 
 The milk used in making this cheese is warmed to a temperature of about 75° F. and 
 coagulated rapidly with rennet, the time required being usually from fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. The curd is then cut very finely and inclosed in a cloth and drained, after 
 which it is put into hoops 12 inches in diameter and 10 inches high. It was formerly 
 the custom to allow the curd from the evening's milk to drain over night and to mix it 
 with the fresh warm curd from the morning's milk prepared in the same way. The 
 curd from the evening's milk and that from the morning's milk, crumbled very fine, 
 were put into hoops in layers with moldy bread crumbs interspersed between the 
 layers. The cheese is turned frequently for four or five days, the cloths being changed 
 occasionally, and is salted from the outside, the process requiring about two weeks. 
 
VARIETIES OP CHEESE. 25 
 
 It is then transferred to the curing rooms, where a low temperature is usually main- 
 tained. At an early stage in the process of ripening the cheese is usually punched 
 with an instrument about 6 inches long tapering from a sharp point to a diameter of about 
 one-eighth inch at the base. About 150 holes are made in each cheese. This favors 
 the development of the penicillium throughout the interior of the cheese. Well-made 
 cheese may be kept for a year or longer. In the region where made, much of the cheese 
 is consumed while in a fresh condition. 
 
 GOUDA. 
 
 This is a Holland cheese made from whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. It is 
 round and weighs 10 to 45 pounds. The milk, to which coloring matter has been 
 added, is set at 91° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in fifteen minutes. The 
 curd is cut or broken with a wooden scoop, a harp, or an American cheese knife. It 
 is allowed to stand for a minute and the whey is dipped off. Hot whey or hot water 
 is poured on the mass of curd until the whole has reached a temperature of 104° to 110°. 
 When the curd squeaks or whistles when it is crushed between the teeth, the whey 
 or water is dipped off and the curd is stirred and piled where it will drain well. The 
 curd is then thoroughly kneaded and sometimes lightly salted. After salting, the 
 curd is put into round molds and placed in a press, where it remains for twenty-four 
 hours with increasing pressure. The cheese is then salted either by immersion in 
 brine or by rubbing salt on the surface. The salting continues for four to eight days. 
 After salting, the cheese is washed with hot whey. It is then transferred to the ripening 
 cellar, where it is turned daily for several days and finally once a week until ripened. 
 It is ready for consumption in six to eight months. When the cheese is a few days 
 old it is washed with water and colored with saffron. Some of this cheese is shipped 
 to the United States. As seen in this country each cheese is covered with an animal 
 tissue said to be a bladder. 
 
 GOURNAY. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese which derives its name from the village of Gournay in 
 the Department of Seine-Infcrieure, France, where it is made. It is about 3 inches 
 in diameter and three-fourths inch thick. 
 
 GOYA. 
 
 This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Corrientes, in the Argentine Re- 
 public. Either whole or partly skimmed milk is used. It is heated to a temperature 
 of 75° to 85° F. and coagulated with rennet in fifteen to thirty minutes. The curd is 
 cut and put into sacks to drain, after which it is put into molds. 
 
 GRANULAR CURD. 
 
 This cheese resembles the genuine Cheddar process cheese in all points excepting 
 that it is not matted and milled. As soon as the curd is cooked firm enough it is salted 
 and pressed. Because no acid is developed between cooking and pressing, a little 
 more acid may be allowed to develop before drawing the whey, and the curd should 
 be cooked firmer. 
 
 GRAY. 
 
 This is a sour skim-milk product of the Tyrol. When the milk is thickened the 
 curd is brought to a proper firmness by light heating, and is then dipped into a cheese 
 cloth, care being taken that the flocculent matter at the bottom of the kettle is thor- 
 oughly mixed with the rest of the curd in order to insure an even product. The curd 
 is put under a press for ten minutes, when it is broken up by hand or in a mill and 
 salt and pepper are added. The curd is then pul into forms or hoops, and to insure 
 the proper ripening a little well-ripened grated gray cheese is added, or bread crumbs 
 30022— Bull. 105—08 4 
 
26 • VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 with the characteristic mold growth are mixed with the curd as it is put into the forms. 
 The forms are made in various shapes and sizes and are supplied with holes to facilitate 
 drainage. The cheese remains in the forms under pressure for twenty-four hours, 
 and is then taken to the drying room, which has a temperature of 70° F. The length 
 of time it should remain in the drying room is determined by the appearance of the 
 cheese. It is then taken to the ripening cellar. The cheese when ripened has a 
 pleasant taste and a gray appearance through the entire mass. 
 
 GRUYERE. 
 
 This name is applied to Emmental cheese manufactured in France, the name 
 originating from the Swiss village of Gruyere. The cheese was -first mentioned in 
 1722, when two societies were reported to have been organized for its manufacture. 
 The Gruyere cheese is made in three different qualities — whole milk, partly skimmed, 
 and skimmed. It is usually made from partly skimmed milk, and this is supposed 
 to distinguish it from Emmental, which is supposed to be made from whole milk. 
 The manufacture of Gruyere cheese is an extensive industry in France, about 50,000,- 
 000 pounds having been manufactured annually the latter part of the last century. 
 
 GUSSING. 
 
 This is an Austrian skim-milk cheese weighing from 4 to 8 pounds. It resembles 
 very much the brick cheese of the United States and is made in practically the same 
 way. 
 
 HAND. 
 
 Hand cheese is so named because it was molded originally into its final shape by 
 hand. It is a sour-milk cheese, very popular among German races, and manufactured 
 in many countries. 
 
 The process of making varies in different localities, but in general is about as follows: 
 The skimmed milk is mixed with buttermilk and put into a tinned vessel where it is 
 held at a favorable temperature for souring. When thick the curd is broken up by 
 stirring and heated to 120° F. The cooking is continued for about three hours and 
 for the first hour of this time is stirred thoroughly. After cooking the whey is drained 
 off and the curd is put in a mold for cooling. It is then ground fine in a curd mill 
 and salt is incorporated, and for some kinds caraway seed is added. The curd is then 
 pressed into the desired shapes and sizes. The small cheeses are dried in a warm room 
 and then transferred to the curing cellar, where they are kept on shelves until the 
 ripening on the surface has commenced, when they are packed in boxes. The cheese 
 has a very sharp, pungent odor and taste, which to most people unaccustomed to it 
 are very disagreeable. 
 
 There are many local names for hand cheeses, among which are the following: Thu- 
 ringia caraway cheese; Ihlefeld, made in Mecklenburg; Livlander, made in Russia; 
 Olmtitzer Bierkase; Dresdener Bierkase; Satz, made in Saxony; Tyrol sour cheese; 
 Berliner Kuhkase, and Alt Kuhkase. 
 
 HARZ. 
 
 This is a hand cheese made in different sizes. It is 1^ to 2\ inches in diameter and 
 \ to \ inch in thickness and weighs one-fourth pound. It is identical in manufacture 
 with hand cheese. 
 
 HAY. 
 
 This cheese, known as Fromage de Foin, is a skim-milk variety made in the Depart- 
 ment of Seine-Inferieure, France. The cheese derives its name from the fact that it 
 is ripened on as freshly cut hay as possible, which gives a characteristic aroma to the 
 cheese. The cheese in some respects resembles a poor grade of Livarot. It is about 
 10 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 inches thick. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 27 
 
 The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 80° to 85° F. In about one hour the 
 curd is cut and the whey removed; the curd is then pressed to remove as much of the 
 whey as possible, after which it is pressed by hand into molds. After draining for 
 about two days it is put into the drying room, where it remains for about three weeks, 
 when it is taken to the curing cellar and buried in hay. After remaining here for six 
 weeks to three months it is ready for sale. The consumption of this variety is largely 
 restricted to the region where it is made. 
 
 HOHENHEIM, 
 
 This is a soft cheese made in Hohenheim from partly skimmed milk. It is cylin- 
 drical in shape, 4 to 6 inches in diameter, and weighs about one-half pound. 
 
 The skimmed evening's milk is added to the morning's milk and heated in a copper 
 kettle to 110° F. Some saffron is used for color and rennet is added. In one to one and 
 one-half hours the curd is broken up and the whey dipped off. Caraway seed is 
 stirred in, by which process the curd is reduced to smaller particles. It is then dipped 
 into tin hoops having holes to allow easy draining. The curd remains in these hoops 
 f< >r twelve hours and an additional twelve hours on a drying board. It is then sprinkled 
 with salt and when this is dissolved it is again salted and placed in the ripening cellar. 
 Ripening requires three months. 
 
 HOLSTEIN HEALTH. 
 
 This is a cooked cheese made from sour skimmed milk, the local name being Hol- 
 steiner Gesundheits Kase. The milk is heated lightly and the curd is strongly 
 pressed; it is then well mixed and put in a tin kettle. A little cream and salt are 
 added and the whole is stirred while it is being heated to the melting temperature 
 over a fire. It is then put into a hoop or mold which holds about one-half pound and 
 is allowed to cool. 
 
 HOLSTEIN SKIM-MILK. 
 
 As the name indicates, this is a skim-milk cheese made in the Province of Holstein, 
 where it is known as Holsteiner Magerkase. Usually in the manufacture of this 
 cheese 6 percent of buttermilk is added to separator skim milk. A part is heated to 
 160° F. and the remainder is mixed with the pasteurized portion. The milk is col- 
 ored with saffron, and rennet powder is used for coagulating the casein, which requires 
 about 35 minutes. The curd is then broken up and allowed to remain in the whey 
 for thirty minutes without stirring. A cloth is then used for lifting the curd from the 
 whey, and 1 per cent of salt is mixed in. The curd is pressed for one-half hour, when 
 it is turned and pressure again applied. The pressure is gradually increased from 5 
 pounds to 9 pounds for each pound of cheese. The cheese is transferred to the curing 
 cellar, which has a temperature of 60°. It is here turned daily until ripened, which 
 requires four months. Each cheese weighs from 12 to 14 pounds. 
 
 HOP. 
 
 Hop or Hopfen cheese is a German product. The ground curd is salted and allowed 
 to ripen for three or four days, when it is mixed with fresh curd and molded into small 
 cheeses measuring about 2\ inches in diameter and 1 inch in thickness. These are 
 placed in a well-ventilated room and allowed to become quite dry, when they are 
 packed in hops. 
 
 HVID GJEDEOST. 
 
 This is a goat's-milk cheese made in Norway. The milk is set at 70° F. or higher. 
 The curd is broken up arid is cooked in the usual manner. It is then pressed in forms 
 9 to 10 inches long, 6 inches broad, and 4 inches high. The cheese is made only for 
 local consumption. 
 
28 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 ILHA. 
 
 Ilha is a Portuguese word meaning island, and is applied to the cow's-milk cheeses 
 made in the Azore Islands and imported quite extensively into Portugal. They are 
 moderately firm cheeses measuring 10 to 12 inches in diameter and about 4 inches in 
 thickness. 
 
 INCANESTRATO. 
 
 This name is applied to cheese made in Sicily. The mixture of evening's and 
 morning's milk is curdled with rennet in about three-fourths of an hour. The curd 
 is then stirred thoroughly and 2 per cent of water is added. After standing for five 
 minutes the curd is separated from the whey, pressed by hand, and sometimes allowed 
 to ferment for two to three days, when it is cooked in whey and then pressed and 
 salted. Various spices are added. A kind known as Majocchino and made in the 
 region of Messina, out of cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk, contains olive oil. 
 
 ISIGNY. 
 
 This is an American cheese originating about thirty years ago in attempts to make 
 Camembert cheese in this country. The proper ripening for Camembert cheese was 
 not secured and hence a distinct name was given to the product. The cheese is 
 slightly larger than Camembert but of the same shape. The ripened product bears a 
 close resemblance to Limburg. The process of manufacture is similar to that of 
 Camembert. During ripening, however, the cheese is washed and rubbed occasion- 
 ally to check the growth of molds on the surface. 
 
 JOCHBERG. 
 
 This cheese is made from a mixture of cow's and goat's milk in the Tyrol. The 
 cheese weighs 45 pounds and is 20 inches in diameter and 4 inches high. 
 
 JOSEPHINE. 
 
 This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk in Silesia. It is put 
 up in small cylindrical packages. 
 
 KAJMAK. 
 
 The Turkish word Kajmak signifies cream and is used to designate a product made 
 in Servia and sometimes known as Servian butter. This product is, however, analo- 
 gous to a cream cheese. The milk is boiled and put into large shallow vessels usually 
 made of wood, and allowed to stand for twelve hours, when the cream is removed and 
 usually salted. The flavor varies greatly with the age of the sample and is said to be 
 between that of a goat's-milk cheese and Roquefort. 
 
 KASCAVAL. 
 
 This is a loaf-shaped rennet cheese weighing from 4 to 6 pounds, made from sheep's 
 milk in Bulgaria, Roumania, and Transylvania. Goat's milk is sometimes added. 
 Considerable quantities of the cheese are exported. 
 
 KATSCHKAWALJ. 
 
 This is a sheep's-milk cheese made in Servia. The milk is curdled with rennet 
 and the curd is drained and inclosed in tin cans which are put into boiling water. The 
 curd is subsequently worked by hand and molded into various shapes. A cheese 
 weighs ordinarily about 6 pounds. 
 
 KJARSGAARD. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow's milk. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 29 
 
 KLOSTER. 
 
 This is a soft ripened rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk. It has a 
 somewhat unusual shape, 1 by 1 by 4 inches, and weighs less than one-fourth pound. 
 
 KOLOS-MONOSTOR. 
 
 This is a sheep's-milk rennet cheese made in the agricultural school in Transyl- 
 vania. The cheese is rectangular in shape, 8J by 5 by 3 inches, and weighs 4 pounds. 
 
 KOPPEN. 
 
 Koppenkiise is a goat's-milk cheese made in Germany. The milk is set at 80° to 
 85° F., and after the whey has been dipped off the curd is put into a cup-shaped ves- 
 sel which gives form to the cheese and also the name. The cheese is placed in a warm 
 room and sprinkled with salt. It is allowed to dry for from two to three days and is 
 then placed in the ripening room. The ripened cheese weighs from 3 to 4 ounces. It 
 has a sharp, pungent, slightly smoky flavor. 
 
 KOSHER. 
 
 This cheese under various names is made in several countries. It is a cow's-milk 
 rennet cheese made for the Jewish trade. The process of manufacture resembles that 
 of Limburg. The cheese, however, is eaten fresh. 
 
 KOSHER GOUDA. 
 
 This is a cheese made especially for the Jewish trade. It is identical with a Gouda 
 cheese in every way except in size and in having no bladder covering. It weighs 
 from 4 to 6 pounds and is 8^ inches in diameter and 3 inches thick. It bears a stamp 
 which identifies it to the Jewish consumer. Small quantities are imported into this 
 country. 
 
 KRUTT. 
 
 Krutt, or Kirgischerkase, is made by the nomadic tribes of the middle Asiatic 
 Steppes from sour skim milk of the cow, goat, sheep, or camel. When the milk 
 coagulates salt is added and the curd is hung up in a sack to drain, after which it is 
 subjected to moderate pressure. The curd is then made up into small balls which 
 are placed in the sun to dry. 
 
 KUHBACH. 
 
 This is a soft ripened rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed cow's 
 milk. It is a German product, made in upper Bavaria. It is cylindrical in shape, 
 weighs 2 pounds, and is 6 inches in diameter and 3 inches high. 
 
 LAGUIOLE. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese varying but little if any from Cantal and resembling 
 Roquefort. It derives its name from the village of Laguiole in the Department of 
 Aveyron, France. The cheese is made extensively in the mountains of Aubrac, where 
 it is said to have been made at the time of the Roman occupation. The milk, either 
 whole or partly skimmed, is set with rennet, the time allowed being about thirty min- 
 utes. The curd is allowed to ferment for about twenty-four hours and is then put into 
 hoops and pressed. At least one month is required for ripening. Laguiole or Guiole 
 cheese is considered superior to Cantal, although the two varieties are made in essen- 
 tially the same way. 
 
 LANCASHIRE. 
 
 This is an English cheese named from the county in which it is made. The even- 
 ing's milk is partly skimmed and is heated so that when the morning*^ milk is added 
 
30 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 the temperature of the whole is brought to 80° F., or slightly higher. Enough rennet 
 is added to coagulate the milk in one hour. The curd is broken up, stirred for a short 
 time, and pressed on the bottom of the vat by means of a heavy sieve. The whey is 
 soon drained off and the curd is ground in a curd mill into particles the size of kernels 
 of corn and then put into the press. Salting is done in brine in which the cheese is 
 placed for four to six days. From the brine tank the cheese is transf erred to the curing 
 room. 
 
 LANGRES. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made in the northeastern part of France. It derives its 
 name from the village of Langres in the Department of Haute-Marne, where it is said 
 to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. The perfectly fresh milk 
 is set with rennet at a temperature of about 90° to 95° F. After standing for several 
 hours it is put into cylindrical forms. The cheeses ripen for about two to three months. 
 A ripened cheese weighs from 1| to 2 pounds and is about 5 inches in diameter and 8 
 inches high. The cheese is consumed for the most part in the region where made. 
 
 LAPLAND. 
 
 The Laplanders make a variety of cheese from the milk of the reindeer. It resem- 
 bles very much the harder varieties of the Emmental group. The cheese has a very 
 unusual shape. It is round and flat and is so formed that a cross section would resem- 
 ble a. dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. 
 
 LATTICINI. 
 
 This is applied to cheeses made from the milk of buffaloes, particularly in the region 
 of Naples, but also in other parts of Italy. 
 
 LEATHER. 
 
 Leather, Leder, or Holstein dairy cheese is made in Sehleswig-Holstein, from 
 skimmed cow's milk with an addition of from 5 to 10 per cent of buttermilk. 
 
 The milk is set at from 95° to 100° F. and requires twenty -five to thirty-five minutes 
 for coagulation. It is then broken up with a harp or a stirring stick, and is stirred with 
 a Danish stirrer. When the particles are reduced to the size of peas the curd is piled 
 up on one side of the vat or kettle and allowed to stand for ten minutes. The whey is 
 then dipped off. The curd is cut with a knife into pieces the size of the hand, put in 
 a wooden or tin bowl, and pressed for one-half hour, when it is cut into pieces and 
 run through a cheese mill. It is then salted, put in a cloth, and again put in the press, 
 where the pressure is gradually increased. The cheese is turned occasionally and a 
 fresh dry cloth supplied. After twelve hours of pressing the cheese is put into the 
 salt bath, where it is kept forty to forty-eight hours. It is then transferred to the 
 ripening cellar, where it is wiped with a dry cloth every day for about a week and 
 thereafter twice a week, tho ripening requiring about four months. The cured cheese 
 has small eyes; it is made cylindrical, and is 4 to 6 inches in height and 10 to 12 inches 
 in diameter. It weighs 15 to 25 pounds. 
 
 LEICESTER. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. It is named from a 
 county in England where it is made. It resembles the better known Cheshire and 
 Cheddar in every way. 
 
 Evening's and morning's milk are mixed and set at a temperature of from 76° to 
 84° F. The curd is allowed to set very firm, which requires ninety minutes. It is 
 cut very carefully and allowed to settle twenty minutes, when the whey is drawn off. 
 The curd is then gathered in a cloth, pressed, and broken up several times until a 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 31 
 
 certain degree of dryness has .been attained, and then sailed lightly and put to press. 
 Pressure is continued for five days, the cheese being removed and salted on the out- 
 side each day. 
 
 LEYDEN. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made in Holland, where it is known also as Bergues, 
 Delft, Komynde, Koejekaars, and Hobbe. The milk, which is either partly or 
 entirely skimmed, is set with rennet at 72° to 75° F. It is allowed to stand for one 
 hour, when the curd is cut and then stirred while being warmed up to 97°. The heat- 
 ing is done by pouring hot whey over the curd. The curd is then dipped out with a 
 cloth and kneaded by hand. Caraway seed is added to a portion of the curd which, 
 in filling the hoops, constitutes the middle of three layers. The cheese is then put in 
 press. It is turned after three hours and a fresh cloth applied. The pressing con- 
 tinues for twenty-four hours. Salting is done on the surface daily. If the rind be- 
 comes hard it is washed in whey or water, and occasionally milk is smeared on the 
 surface. The surface is colored with litmus in alkaline water. A ripened cheese 
 weighs about 25 pounds and is 12 inches in diameter and 3J to 5 inches in thickness. 
 As seen on the American market it has a very dark-brown surface. 
 
 LIMBURG. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk which may contain all of the fat 
 or be partly or entirely skimmed. The best Limburg is undoubtedly made from 
 whole milk. This cheese has a very strong and characteristic odor and taste. The 
 cheese is about 6 by 6 by 3 inches and weighs about 2 pounds. 
 
 The most common synonyms of Limburg are Backstein and Herve. There are, 
 however, many local names for this kind of cheese, such as Algau, Lanark, Marianhof , 
 Morin, St. Michels, Schutzen, Tanzenberg, Carinthian, Grottenhof, Emmersdorf, 
 Briol, and Lindenhof. 
 
 Limburg cheese originated in the province of Liittich, Belgium, in the neighbor- 
 hood of Herve, and was marketed in Limburg, Belgium. Its manufacture has spread 
 to Germany and Austria, where it is very popular, and to the United States, where 
 large quantities are made, mostly in New York and Wisconsin. 
 
 Sweet milk is set without any coloring matter at a temperature of from 91° to 96° 
 F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate the milk in about forty minutes. In foreign 
 countries a kettle is used but in the United States an ordinary rectangular cheese vat 
 is found to be more satisfactory. The curd is cut or broken into pieces about one- 
 third-inch cube and is stirred for a short time without additional heating. It is then 
 dipped into rectangular forms, 28 inches long, b\ inches broad, and about 8 inches 
 deep. These forms are kept on a draining board where the whey drains out freely. 
 When the cheese has been in the forms with frequent turnings for a sufficient length 
 of time to retain its shape it is removed to the salting table, where the surface is rubbed 
 with salt daily. When the surface of the cheese commences to get slippery, the 
 cheese is put in a ripening cellar having a temperature of about 60°. While in the 
 cellar the surface of each cheese is rubbed thoroughly at frequent intervals. Ripen- 
 ing requires one to two months. When ripe the cheese is wrapped in paper, and then 
 in tin foil, and put in boxes each containing about 50 cheeses. 
 
 No Limburg is imported into this country at the present time, contrary to the 
 popular belief. The type of cheese is made so cheaply and of such good quality in 
 this country that the foreign make has been crowded out of the market. 
 
 LIPTAU. 
 
 This cheese is made in the Provinces of Liptau, Saros, and Arva, in Austria, from 
 sheep's milk. Condiments, especially red pepper, are usually added. It is rather 
 greasy and has a sharp taste. The details of manufacture are the same as for Brinsen 
 cheese. 
 
32 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 LIVAROT. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk more or less skimmed. It derives 
 its name from the village of Livarot in the Department of Calvados, France, where the 
 industry is centralized. This cheese has the advantage over Camembert made in the 
 same region in that it may be manufactured and consumed during the warm months. 
 
 The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 95° to 104° F. After one and one-half 
 to two hours the curd is cut and placed on a rush mat or a cloth and allowed to drain 
 for about fifteen minutes, during which time it is crumbled as finely as possible. It is 
 then put into tin hoops or forms 6 inches in diameter and the same in height. The 
 cheeses are turned very frequently until they become firm , when they are salted and 
 left on the draining board for four or five days. At this stage they are sometimes sold 
 as white cheese, but more often they are transferred to a well -ventilated room for 
 fifteen to twenty days and then to the curing cellar, which is kept very tightly closed. 
 By thus retaining the ammonia and other products the cheese acquires a strong, 
 piquant taste. During ripening the cheeses are turned two or three times a week 
 and occasionally wiped with a cloth moistened with salt water. After ripening for 
 ten to twelve days they are wrapped with the leaves of Typha latifolia, commonly 
 called laiche. In three to five months they are colored with annatto and marketed. 
 
 LORRAINE. 
 
 This is a small sour-milk hand cheese made in Lorraine, Germany, and regarded 
 as a delicacy in that country. It is seasoned with pepper, salt, and pistachio nuts, 
 and is eaten in a comparatively fresh state. The cheeses are made in sizes of about 2 
 ounces and sell for a very high price — at the rate of about 50 cents a pound. 
 
 LUNEBERG. 
 
 This cheese is made in the small valleys of the Voralberg Mountains in the western 
 part of Austria. The art of cheese making in this locality was imported from Switzer- 
 land, and the copper kettle and characteristic presses are used. Saffron is used for 
 coloring, and the milk is warmed in the copper kettle to 87° to 90° F., at which tem- 
 perature the rennet is added, enough being used to coagulate the milk in twenty to 
 thirty minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size of hazelnuts and is cooked with 
 stirring to a temperature of 122°. The curd is dipped into cloths which are put into 
 wooden forms and light pressure is applied. The curd remains in the press for twenty- 
 four hours, during which time it is turned occasionally and a dry cloth supplied. The 
 cheese is then taken to the cellar and is salted on the surface. In the cellar it is rubbed 
 and washed occasionally. When ripe it is said to be about midway in type between 
 Emmental and Limburg. 
 
 MACONNAIS. 
 
 This is a French goat's-milk cheese, 2 inches square by 1£ inches thick. 
 
 MACQUELINE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese of the Camembert type, 4 inches in diameter and 1J 
 inches thick, made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the region of Senlis, in the 
 Department of Oise, France. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 
 80° F. and allowed to stand for five hours, when the curd is put into hoops. After 
 twenty-four hours the hoops are removed and the cheese is salted and taken to the 
 curing room, where it remains for twenty days or more. A cheese weighs about one- 
 fourth of a pound and requires about 2 liters of milk in its manufacture. The cheese 
 sells at a lower price than Camembert, made in the same region. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 33 
 
 MAIKASE. 
 
 This is a cheese resembling Gouda. It is made in Holland in the early summer, is 
 softer than the regular Gouda, and hence can be marketed at an earlier period. 
 
 MAINZ HAND. 
 
 This is a typical hand cheese sometimes called Pimp. The milk is treated in the 
 usual way, and the curd after cooling is thoroughly kneaded by hand, the thoroughness 
 of this manipulation influencing the quality of the cheese. The curd is then pressed 
 by hand into flat cakes and allowed to dry for a week. They are then packed in a jar 
 or keg and placed in a cellar for ripening. This requires from six to eight weeks. 
 
 MALAKOFF. 
 
 This is another form of Neufchatel cheese about 2 inches in diameter and one-half 
 of an inch in thickness. It may be consumed either while fresh or after ripening. 
 
 MANUR. 
 
 This cheese is made in Servia from either sheep's or cow's milk. The milk is first 
 heated to the boiling temperature and then cooled until the fingers can be held in it. 
 A mixture of buttermilk and fresh whey with rennet is added. The curd is lifted 
 from the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly 
 salted, and dried. 
 
 MAQUEE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet brick-shaped cheese made from cow's milk in Belgium. It 
 is known where made as Fromage Mou. 
 
 MARKISCH HAND. 
 
 This cheese is similar to a hand cheese. The milk is treated in the same way as 
 in hand cheese up to the salting. The curd is then put in a linen sack and heavy 
 pressure is applied. The mass is then cut into oblong pieces and allowed to dry and 
 cure as regular hand cheese. 
 
 MAROILLES. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont l'Eveque type made from whole or partly 
 skimmed cow's milk in the Departments of Aisne and Nord, France. There are 
 several kinds varying in size, shape, and details of manufacture, of which the Tuile 
 de Flandre and Larron are best known. The cheese as made at Maroilles is about 6 
 inches square and 2 inches thick; that made at Saint Aubin 5 inches square and 3 
 inches thick. The Larron is about 2\ inches square and \\ inches thick, and weighs 
 about 6 ounces. The Tuile de Flandre is about twice as large. The Dauphin is 
 semilunar in shape and contains herbs. A pear-shaped form designated Boulette 
 may be made in part from buttermilk. 
 
 The best cheese is made from fresh whole milk, although the most of it is made 
 from milk partly or entirely skimmed. The temperature of setting with rennet is 
 about 75° F. and the time allowed from one to four hours. The curd is drained for 
 one to two hours in a box having a perforated bottom, and is then put into square 
 forms or hoops 5 to 6 inches on a side and 3 to 4 inches high. The cheese is turned 
 frequently until firm and then salted on all six faces and taken to the curing cellar 
 where it is washed frequently with salt water to prevent the growth of molds. Ripen- 
 ing requires three to five months. Defective cheeses are said to be common. 
 
 30022— P. all. 1 ( 15—08 5 
 
34 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 MASCARPONE. 
 
 This is an Italian cream cheese about 2 inches in diameter and 2\ inches in height. 
 The cream is heated to about 194° F. and dilute acetic or tartaric acid is added. The 
 mixture is stirred and drained through cloth and then put into molds. It is eaten in 
 a fresh condition. 
 
 MECKLENBURG SKIM. 
 
 This is a rennet cheese made from skim milk and named from the province in 
 which it is made. The milk is placed in a copper kettle and warmed with steam. 
 Saffron is added for coloring and sufficient rennet is used to coagulate the milk in 30 
 minutes. The curd is broken up into particles the size of peas. The temperature is 
 raised to 92° F. in 12 minutes. The curd is then removed from the kettle by means 
 of a cloth and put into a hoop and pressure applied. This is increased gradually 
 until it reaches fifteen times the weight of the cheese in twenty-four hours. The 
 cheese is then placed in a drying room held at 70° until a rind is formed. As much 
 salt is then sprinkled on the surface as can be absorbed. In the meanwhile the cheese 
 is taken from the drying room and placed in the regular curing room, which has a 
 temperature of 60° and a relative humidity of 85 to 95 per cent. 
 
 MIGNOT. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese either cylindrical or cubical in form. It has been 
 made in the Department of Calvados, France, for over one hundred years and resembles 
 Pont l'Eveque and Livarot. There are two types of this cheese, designated white 
 and passe; the first, a fresh cheese, is made during the period from April to September, 
 and the second, a ripened cheese, is made during the remainder of the year. 
 
 MONTASIO. 
 
 This cheese originated in the part of Carinthia, in Austria, called Friaul, where the 
 annual product is now valued at $600,000. At the present time it is made not only 
 in Carinthia, but in the neighboring provinces and in Italy. 
 
 The milk, either whole or partly skimmed, and consisting usually of a mixture of 
 cow's and goat's milk, is heated in a kettle to 95° F. and sufficient rennet is added to 
 coagulate it in thirty to forty minutes. It is then cut very carefully to the size of peas 
 and heated gradually to a temperature of 120°. When the desired temperature is 
 reached, which is usually in about one-half hour, heating is stopped and the stirring 
 continued for thirty to forty minutes. Some of the whey is dipped from the kettle 
 and the curd is removed by means of a cloth. The cheese is pressed for twenty-four 
 hours, during which time it is turned frequently. The salting requires usually about 
 one month, the total amount applied varying from 2\ to 3 per cent of the weight of the 
 pressed cheese. After salting, the cheese is taken to a well-ventilated room and 
 allowed to dry. In this room the cheese is turned frequently and rubbed in order to 
 free it from molds. When dry it is scraped carefully and taken to the curing cellar. 
 The cheese is here rubbed frequently with a coarse cloth, and when the rind has 
 become firm and does not show the presence of mold, olive oil is usually applied. 
 Sometimes the rind is colored black by means of soot. 
 
 The fresh cheese is almost white. The old cheese becomes yellow, granular, and 
 has a sharp taste and characteristic odor. It is usually eaten when three to twelve 
 months of age, but may be kept much longer and then grated. 
 
 MONTAVONER. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese made in Austria. During the process of manufacture 
 dried herbs (Achillea moschata and A. atrata) are added. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 35 
 
 MONT CENIS. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese resembling the imitation Roquefort varieties like Gex 
 and Septmoncel an<l made in the region of Mont Cenie, in the southeastern part of 
 France. The milk vised is usually a mixture of cow's, sheep's, and goat's. The 
 evening's milk is usually skimmed and added to that of the morning. Primitive 
 methods of cheese making are employed. The milk is set with rennet at a tempera- 
 ture of about 85° F. The curd is then cut and allowed to drain for twenty-four hours, 
 when fresh curd is thoroughly mixed with it. The mixture is then put into molds and 
 moderate pressure applied. After turning frequently for several days and salting it 
 is transferred to the curing cellar, where it is turned frequently, washed with salt 
 water to check the growth of molds on the surface, and allowed to ripen for three to 
 four months. The ripening is due mainly to a penicillium which is sometimes incor- 
 porated in the curd by means of moldy bread. A ripened cheese is about 18 inches in 
 diameter, 6 to 8 inches in height, and weighs about 25 pounds. 
 
 MONT D'OR. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont l'Eveque type formerly made from goat's 
 milk but now made almost exclusively from cow's milk. Sometimes a small amount 
 of goat's milk is added to the cow's milk. 
 
 It derives its name from Mont d'Or, near Lyons, in the Department of Rhone, France, 
 where it is said to have been made for over three centuries. At the present time it is 
 made not only in Rhone and neighboring Departments but in the other parts of France, 
 especially Eure and Oise. 
 
 Whole or partly skimmed milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° to 100° F. 
 The curd, in from one-half hour to two hours after the addition of the rennet to the 
 milk and with or without cutting, is put into circular forms or hoops about 4J inches 
 in diameter and 3 inches high. These rest upon a draining board covered with straw. 
 After about one hour the cheese is turned, and frequently thereafter until firm. A 
 disk with a light weight is sometimes placed upon each cheese in order to hasten the 
 removal of the whey. The cheese is salted on the surface. Much of it is sold in a 
 fresh condition. It is also ripened for about one week in summer and two to three 
 weeks in winter, during which time it is turned frequently and washed with salt water 
 to prevent the growth of molds. 
 
 MONTHLERY. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Seine-et-Oise, France. A 
 large cheese is about 2 inches thick and 14 inches in diameter and weighs about 5£ 
 pounds. There is also a smaller sized cheese which weighs about 3 pounds. Either 
 whole milk or partly skimmed milk is used. Rennet is added to the milk at ordinary 
 temperatures, and the curd when sufficiently firm is broken up, put into molds, and 
 subjected to pressure. After salting the cheese is cured for eight to fifteen days in a 
 so-called drying room and then ripened in a cellar at a temperature of about 55° F. 
 During ripening the cheese becomes covered at first with a whitish mold and later 
 with a blue mold in which red spots appear. It is ready for sale at the end of about 
 one month. 
 
 MOZARINELLI. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Italy. 
 
 MONSTER. 
 
 Miinster is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk in the western part of 
 Germany, near the Vosges Mountains, and named from the city of Miinster, near which 
 it is made. Similar cheefte made in the neighboring portion of France is called G6- 
 rome, and Miinster cheese made near Colmar and Strassburg is sometimes given the 
 names of these two cities. 
 
36 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 The milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in thirty minutes. 
 The curd is then broken up and allowed to stand for thirty to forty-five minutes with- 
 out stirring, when it is dipped with a sieve which holds back the small particles of 
 curd and gives a slight pressure to the curd. After removing the whey the curd is 
 scooped into forms or hoops and caraway or anise seed is usually added. The hoops 
 are made in two parts, the lower of which is 4 inches high and 7 inches in diameter 
 with holes in the bottom for draining, and the upper of which is of the same dimen- 
 sions. The whole resembles an ordinary cheese hoop with bandages. The hoop is 
 lined with cheese cloth. After the curd has- been in the hoop for twelve hours the 
 upper part of the hoop can be removed. The cheese is turned and the cloth removed. 
 The cheese is now put in the upper portion of the hoop and turned frequently for four 
 to six days. The temperature is held in the meanwhile at 68°. After salt has been 
 rubbed on the surface daily for three days the cheese is taken to the cellar, which has 
 a temperature of 51° to 55°, where it is allowed to ripen for two to three months. The 
 cheese sells for about 15 cents a pound when ripe. 
 
 MYSOST. 
 
 Mysost is made from whey and is a product of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, and 
 to a very limited extent of the United States. It has a light-brown color, a buttery 
 consistency, and a mild, sweetish taste. 
 
 The method of manufacture is as follows: As soon as the curd of the regular cheese is 
 removed from the whey, the whey is strained and is put in a kettle or large pan over 
 the fire and the albuminous material which rises to the surface is skimmed off. The 
 whey is evaporated as rapidly as possible with constant and thorough stirring. When 
 it has reached about one-fourth its original volume the albumin previously skimmed 
 off is returned and stirred thoroughly to break up all possible lumps. When the whey 
 has attained the consistency of thickened milk it is poured quickly into a wooden 
 trough and stirred with a paddle until cool to prevent the formation of sugar crystals. 
 This can then be molded into the desired form. In this country it is usually made 
 into cylindrical shapes and wrapped in tin foil. 
 
 NIEHEIM. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese made in Westphalia and named from a city in that prov- 
 ince. The sour milk is heated to a temperature of 100° to 120° F. The curd is collected 
 in a cloth and allowed to stand for twenty-four hours, when it is worked until in a 
 fine condition. The curd is made up into cakes which are put into a cellar and turned 
 frequently for five to eight days. It is then broken up, and salt and caraway seed, 
 and sometimes beer or milk, are added. The cheese is covered lightly with straw and 
 finally packed in casks with hops and allowed to ripen. 
 
 NESSEL. 
 
 This is a soft-cured renne^ cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk. It is an Eng- 
 lish product and is made round and very thin. 
 
 NEUFCHATEL. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made extensively in the Department of Seine-Inferieure, 
 France, from cow's milk either whole or skimmed. Bondon, Malakoff, Petit Carre, 
 and Petit Suisse are essentially the same as Neufchatel, but have slightly different 
 shapes. 
 
 The milk, preferably fresh, is set at 85° F. with only so much rennet as is necessary 
 to secure the desired coagulation in twenty-four hours in summer and from thirty-six 
 to forty-eight hours in winter. The curd is then inclosed in cheese cloth and drained 
 for twelve hours, after which it is subjected to pressure for another period of twelve 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 3*7 
 
 hours. It is then thoroughly kneaded by hand, or in the larger factories by means of a 
 curd mill, and pressed into tin cylinders about 2 inches in diameter and 3 inches high. 
 The cheeses are removed soon from the molds, salted, and replaced. After draining 
 for twenty-four hours they are transferred to the so-called drying room, where they 
 become covered with white and later with blue molds. They are then taken to the 
 curing cellar, where the ripening process is continued for three to four weeks. The 
 appearance of red spots on the surface is taken as an indication that the ripening has 
 progressed far enough. The cheeses are then wrapped in tin foil and marketed. " 
 
 NEW MILK. 
 
 This cheese is made in Holland. The process of manufacture resembles that of 
 Gouda cheese. It is made only in limited quantities at the beginning of the summer 
 season and is eaten fresh. 
 
 NOSTRALE. 
 
 This name is applied locally to two kinds of rennet cheese made from cow's milk in 
 the mountainous regions of northwestern Italy. The hard cheese, designated For- 
 maggio Duro, is made during the spring while the herds are still in the valleys, and the 
 soft cheese, Formaggio Tenero, during the summer when they are pastured in the 
 mountains. The cheese is said to be a very old variety and the methods of manufac- 
 ture to have remained primitive. A cheese designated Raschera made in the region 
 of Mondovi is probably the same as Nostrale. 
 
 OLIVET. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The manufacture of this variety 
 originated south of Orleans, in the Department of Loiret, France. The industry is 
 now carried on north of Orleans near Olivet, to which place the cheese doubtless owes 
 its name. There are three forms of this cheese, designated white or summer cheese, 
 blue or the ordinary half-ripened form, and ripened. In general the process of manu- 
 facture resembles that of Camembert. The ordinary form is made from either whole 
 milk or partly skimmed milk. About two hours after the addition of rennet the curd 
 is placed in a receptacle having holes in the bottom and sides and allowed to drain for 
 twenty-four hours, when it is put into forms about 6 inches in diameter. The cheese 
 is turned and salted the next day and about one day later is taken to the first curing 
 room, where it is placed on shelves covered with straw. This room is kept at a tem- 
 perature of about 65° F. Here the cheese becomes red in a few days and later blue. 
 The blue color is a sign of maturity, and its appearance requires from ten to fifteen 
 days in summer and one month in winter. The cheese is then ready for marketing. 
 When properly cared for it may remain in good condition for several months. The 
 form designated ripened is made in the same way until the blue color appears, when 
 the cheese is put into the curing cellar where ripening is carried to a much further 
 extent. Ordinarily this requires from fifteen to thirty days, but the cheese is here 
 sometimes covered with ashes, which are believed to hasten the ripening process. 
 The form designated white or summer cheese is made from whole milk to which cream 
 is sometimes added. The curd is obtained in the ordinary manner and pressed into 
 molds in which it is sold as fresh cheese, summer cheese, white cheese, or cream cheese. 
 
 OLMUTZER QUARGEL. 
 
 This is a hand cheese made extensively in the western part of Austria. It is 1§ 
 inches in diameter and one-third of an inch thick and contains caraway seed. It 
 is made with 5 per cent of salt and after drying is put in salt whey for a time. It is 
 then packed in kegs and ripened for eight to ten weeks. In all other respects the 
 manufacture is identical with that of hand cheese. 
 
38 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 PAGLIA. 
 
 This is a more or less successful imitation of Gorgonzola cheese, made in the Canton 
 of Ticino, Switzerland. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches in thickness. 
 The milk is set at a temperature of 100° F. , the time allowed being about fifteen minutes. 
 The curd is broken up, stirred, and put into hoops. When sufficiently drained the 
 cheese is taken to a cool cellar and placed on straw, where fermentation is usually- 
 very rapid and marked. The process is delayed to some extent by excessive salting, 
 which is continued for about one month. The cheese is very soft in consistency and 
 has a pleasant aromatic flavor. 
 
 PAGO. 
 
 This is a rennet cheese made from sheep's milk in the Island of Pago, in the Province 
 of Dalmatia, Austria. It is put up in sizes weighing from one-half to 8 pounds. 
 
 PARMESAN. 
 
 This name is in common use outside of Italy for the cheese made and known in 
 that country for centuries as Grana, the term grana or granona referring to the granular 
 appearance of the cheese when broken, as is necessary on account of the hardness of 
 the cheese, which makes cutting practically impossible. There are two quite distinct 
 kinds of this cheese, one made in Lombardy and the other in Emilia, the centers of 
 production being separated by the River Po. Parma, situated in Emilia, has long 
 been an important commercial center for both kinds, and to this fact the name Par- 
 mesan is due. The use of the term Parmesan, however, is sometimes restricted to 
 the cheese made in Lombardy, the term Reggian being used to designate that made 
 in Emilia. Italian writers refer usually to the Lombardy cheese as Cacio or Formaggio 
 Grana Lodigiano, Lodi being an important center of trade, and to the Emilian cheese 
 as Grana Parmigiano or Reggiano. The Lodi cheese is larger and made from a poorer 
 quality of milk than the Reggian. The latter is colored and brings a much higher 
 price. The following description of the process of manufacture applies equally well 
 to both kinds. 
 
 The milk which has been skimmed to a greater or less extent is heated in copper 
 kettles to a temperature. varying according to the acidity of the milk from 90° to 100° F. 
 The kettle is then removed from the fire, rennet added, and the kettle covered and 
 allowed to stand for twenty minutes to one hour, when the curd is cut very fine and 
 cooked, with stirring, to 115° to 125° for fifteen to forty-five minutes. The curd is 
 removed from the kettle by means of a cloth and after draining for a short time is put 
 into hoops. These are about 10 inches high and 18 inches or more in diameter and 
 are lined with coarse cloth before filling. Pressure is then applied for twenty-four 
 hours, the cheese being turned frequently and the cloths changed. The salting, 
 which is begun in one to three days after removing from the press, is continued for 
 a considerable length of time, often forty days. The cheeses are then transferred to 
 a cool, well-ventilatod room, where they may be stored for years, the surface being 
 rubbed with oil from time to lime. The exterior of the cheese is dark green or black, 
 due to coloring matter rubbed on the surface. A greenish color in the interior has 
 been attributed to the contamination with copper from the vessels in which the milk 
 is allowed to stand before skimming. 
 
 The Lombardy cheese made from April to September is known locally as Sorte 
 Maggenga and that from October to March as Sorte Vermenga. The Reggian cheese 
 is made only in summer. 
 
 Parmesan cheese when well made may be broken and grated easily and may be 
 kept for an indefinite number of years. It is grated and used largely for soups and 
 with macaroni. A considerable quantity of this cheese is imported into this country 
 and sells for a very high price. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 39 
 
 PECORINO. 
 
 The Formaggio Pecorini are the sheep's-milk cheeses made in Italy and of which 
 there are numerous more or less clearly defined kinds. The most common cheese of 
 this sort is the one designated Cacio Pecorino Romano, or merely Romano. This 
 varies considerably in size and shape. The weight may range from 2 to 25 pounds. 
 A cheese of ordinary size is about 10 inches in diameter and 6 inches in thickness. 
 The interior is slightly greenish in color, somewhat granular, and devoid of eyes or 
 holes. In making Romano cheese the milk is heated to 100° F. and coagulated by 
 rennet in fifteen minutes. The curd is cut, cooked to 120°, stirred, and put into 
 forms and allowed to drain. Salting is done both by immersion in brine and by 
 rubbing salt on the surface. As much as 7 to 8 per cent of salt is usually incorporated 
 in the course of one month. This process is sometimes facilitated by punching several 
 holes in the cheese. Ripening is usually done at a temperature of 60° to 70° and 
 requires eight months or longer. 
 
 The Pecorino Dolce is artificially colored with annatto and subjected to considerable 
 pressure in the process of manufacture. 
 
 Pecorino Tuscano is a smaller cheese tnan the Romano, measuring usually (i inches 
 in diameter and 2 to 4 inches in thickness and weighing 2 to 5 pounds. 
 
 Among the sheep's-milk cheeses bearing local names are the following: Ancona, 
 Cotrone, Iglesias, Leonessa, Puglia, and Viterbo. In the manufacture of Viterbo 
 cheese the milk is curdled by means of a wild artichoke, Cynara scolymus. 
 
 PFISTER. 
 
 This cheese is classed in the Emmental group though its method of manufacture 
 differs materially. It is made from fresh skimmed cow's milk. It takes its na,me 
 from Pfister Huber, in Cham, Switzerland, who evidently was the first to manufac- 
 ture it. 
 
 The milk is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in thirty minutes. The 
 curd is cut coarse and allowed to stand for fifteen minutes when the whey is dipped off. 
 The curd is again stirred for five minutes, care being taken that the temperature does 
 not fall below the setting point. The curd is again allowed to stand for five minutes 
 when it is taken from the kettle in a cloth and put in a hoop, where it is pressed for 
 twenty-four hours, being turned occasionally and dry cloths substituted. The cheese 
 is transferred from the press to the salt bath where it remains for three days. It is 
 then taken to a moist room having a temperature of 85°. Here it is placed on shelves 
 and turned and salted occasionally. The cheese is ready for market at about 6 weeks 
 of age. It is drum-shaped, like a characteristic Emmental, but not so large, weighing 
 about 50 pounds. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA CREAM. 
 
 This is an ordinary cream cheese put up by a firm in New York State. It is 3 by 2\ 
 by \\ inches in size and is wrapped in parchment paper and tin foil. 
 
 PINEAPPLE. 
 
 This cheese, which is said to have had its origin in Litchfield County, Conn., about 
 1845, is so named from the fruit of that name which the cheese is made to resemble in 
 shape. It is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. The cheese is quite 
 hard and is rather highly colored. The early process of manufacture is the same as 
 with Cheddar, except that it is cooked much harder. The curd is pressed in the 
 desired shape in various sizes up to 6 pounds in weight. After pressing, the cheese 
 is dipped for a few minutes in water at 120° F. and is then put in a net for twenty- 
 four hours, which gives it the diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface. It requires 
 several months to ripen and during tins time the surface is rubbed with oil, which 
 makes it very smooth and hard. 
 
40 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 PONT L'EVEQUE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. Three grades are recognized, 
 depending upon the quality of the milk used. A Pont l'Eveque cheese is about A\ 
 inches square and 1^ inches thick. 
 
 This cheese was made in the thirteenth century in the valley of Auge. from which 
 it derived its earlier name Augelot, and by corruption Angelot. The principal seat 
 of the industry at the present time is Pont l'Eveque and vicinity, in the Department 
 of Calvados, France. The manufacture of this cheese is of considerable importance 
 in the region designated. The milk used may be either whole milk with or without 
 the addition of cream, a mixture of whole and skimmed milk, or milk entirely skimmed. 
 
 Coloring matter and warm or hot water are usually added to the milk before setting 
 with rennet, which is done at a temperature of about 95° F. After standing for fifteen 
 to thirty minutes the curd is cut, removed to a draining board for a few minutes, and 
 then put into square forms or hoops. The cheese is turned very frequently during 
 the first half hour and five or six times more during the remainder of the first day. 
 It is sailed the second or third day and transferred to a well-ventilated room for several 
 days. When sufficiently dried it is taken to the curing cellar. During drying and 
 ripening the cheeses are turned every other day and while in the cellar are washed 
 frequently with salt water. Ripening requires usually from three to six weeks. 
 
 PORT DU SALUT. 
 
 This is a rennet cheese made from cow's milk. In many respects it is intermediate 
 between the soft and hard varieties. The rind is firm and resistant but the interior is 
 soft and homogeneous, though it does not become semiliquid like the interior of Brie 
 cheese. This variety of cheese originated about 1865 in the Trappist Abbey, Port du 
 Salut, situated about 6 miles from Laval, in the Department of Mayenne, France. 
 While the process is to some extent kept a secret by the Trappists, very successful 
 imitations are made outside of the monasteries in this region. 
 
 The milk, either whole or partly skimmed and preferably slightly acid, is heated to 
 90° to 95° F. and sufficient rennet added in order to secure the desired firmness of the 
 curd in about thirty minutes. Coloring matter is usually added to the milk. The curd 
 is cut very fine and in a manner similar to that followed in making Emmental cheese. 
 This requires about twenty minutes. A part of the whey may then be removed. The 
 curd is then stirred and may be heated or cooked to a moderate degree. The final tem- 
 perature reached in cooking varies from 100° to 105°, depending upon the acidity of the 
 milk. The time required in stirring and heating is about twenty minutes. The curd 
 is then allowed to settle and the whey removed. After being stirred vigorously for two 
 to four minutes, the curd is put into molds which are of two sizes, the smaller about 
 7 inches in diameter and the larger about 10 inches. A disk is placed on the cheese and 
 pressure applied by means of presses for ten to twelve hours, the cheese being turned 
 and the cloths frequently changed during this time. The next day the hoops are 
 removed and the cheese salted. After drying for about twenty-four hours, it is trans- 
 ferred to the ripening cellar where it remains from five to six weeks. In this place a 
 temperature of about 55° and a relative humidity of 85° to 90° is preferred. During 
 ripening the cheeses are turned very frequently and washed with salt water, the fre- 
 quency depending somewhat ' upon the rapidity with which molds develop. The 
 cheese is often sold before the ripening process is entirely complete. 
 
 POTATO. 
 
 This cheese is made in Thuringia in the central part of Germany. In the manufac- 
 ture of potato cheese, curd is made from sour cow's milk, or in some cases from renneted 
 milk. Sometimes sheep's or goat's milk is used. The potatoes are boiled and grated 
 or mashed. One part of the potatoes is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 41 
 
 parts of the curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes is mixed with two parts 
 of curd. During the mixing, salt is added and sometimes caraway seed. The cheese is 
 allowed to stand for two to four days while a fermentation takes place. After this the 
 curd is again thoroughly kneaded and placed in forms for a day. It is then dried and 
 is sometimes covered with beer or cream. It is finally placed in tubs and allowed to 
 ripen for fourteen days. 
 
 POTTED. 
 
 This domestic cheese is usually prepared from well-ripened Cheddar cheese by grind- 
 ing the cheese very fine and incorporating with it butter, condiments, spirits, etc. It 
 is put up in small porcelain jars and is much in demand. 
 
 PRATTIGAU. 
 
 This is made from skimmed cow's milk and is so named from the valley of Switzer- 
 land in which it is made. Its manufacture is the same as that of Limburg. Cheeses 
 weigh from 20 to 25 pounds. 
 
 PRESTOST. 
 
 Prestost is a product of Sweden, where it is often called Saaland Pfarr. It is a rennet 
 cheese made from fresh cow's milk and resembles Gouda. It was known in the eight- 
 eenth century. The milk is set at 90° F. and is allowed to become very firm, when it is 
 cut coarse with a wooden knife and poured into a sieve which allows the whey to drain 
 off. The curd is then put into a cloth and kneaded. Whisky is mixed with the curd, 
 which is then packed in a basket, and after some salt is sprinkled on the surface it is 
 put in the cellar. The cloth inclosing the cheese is changed daily for three days, after 
 which the cheese is washed with whisky. A cheese is cylindrical in shape and weighs 
 5 to 30 pounds. 
 
 PROVIDENCE. 
 
 This cheese is about 8 inches in diameter and 1| inches thick, and very closely resem- 
 bles Port du Salut. It is made in the monastery of Bricquebec in the Department of 
 Manche, France. 
 
 PROVOLE. 
 
 This is one of the most esteemed of the several kinds of hard rennet cheese made in 
 central and southern Italy from cow's milk, including also that of buffaloes. The 
 cheese is round or oval and weighs from 4 to 6 pounds. Smaller sizes weighing about 
 2 pounds are known as Provoloni. In many respects, including the cooking of the 
 curd with hot water and the smoking of the cheese, Provole and Provoloni resemble 
 Caciocavallo. Considerable amounts of this cheese are imported into the United States. 
 
 PULTOST. 
 
 Pultost, also called Knaost, is made usually from sour milk but it may be made with 
 rennet. It is a Norwegian product and is made in private dairies in the mountains of 
 that country. The milk is placed in a kettle and if not sour enough to coagulate on 
 warming the acidity is increased by the addition of buttermilk. When sufficient acid 
 has developed the milk is warmed to 113° F. The curd is broken up with a scoop and 
 stirred to keep it from matting together while it is being heated to 140°. It is then 
 dipped and ground up fine. Buttermilk is added and the whole is thoroughly kneaded 
 and put into troughs, where it is covered with a cloth. It is allowed to stand for three 
 days with occasional stirring. 
 
 QUESO DE CINCHO. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese made in Venezuela and known also as Queso de Palma 
 Metida. It is exported in the form of balls 8 to 16 inches in diameter and wrapped in 
 palm leaves. 
 
42 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 QUESO DE HOJA. 
 
 This is a Porto Rican cheese made from fresh cow's milk. The curd is cut into blocks 
 about 6 inches square and 2 inches thick. After part of the whey is drained off, which 
 may require several hours, the pieces of curd are immersed in water or whey having 
 a temperature of 150° F. This gives a tough layer to the block of curd, which is then 
 removed to a table and pressed or stretched by the use of a broad. wooden spoon or 
 paddle. Salt is sprinkled on the surface and the piece of curd is folded and wrapped 
 in a cloth and squeezed to force out the moisture. The finished product is about 6 
 inches in diameter, 1 to 2 inches thick, and has slightly rounded top and bottom sur- 
 faces. When the cheese is cut it appears to be in layers like leaves upon one another, 
 hence the name, signifying leaf cheese. 
 
 QUESO DE MANO. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese resembling a hand cheese, and is made in Venezuela. 
 It is 6 to 7 inches in diameter. 
 
 QUESO DE PRENSA. 
 
 This is a Porto Rican product, and is a hard rennet cheese made from unskimmed 
 cow's milk. The milk is allowed to stand six hours without cooling and rennet is then 
 added. The curd is broken by hand or with a stick, and after part of the whey is 
 separated the curd is transferred to a table and is broken into small pieces. It is then 
 put in wooden frames, and salt is added either as the curd goes into the frame or by 
 sprinkling on top. Light pressure is applied, either by hand or by means of a screw. 
 After leaving the press the cheese is placed on racks. It may be eaten fresh or allowed 
 to stand for two to three months. The cheeses are 11 inches long, 5J inches wide, and 
 3 inches thick, and weigh about 5 pounds. The name signifies pressed cheese. 
 
 QUESO DE PUNA. 
 
 This is a Porto Rican product, resembling very much the Cottage or Dutch cheese 
 of the United States. The milk is set with rennet and the curd is thoroughly mashed 
 or kneaded by hand, salt being added at the same time. The curd is put in a hoop 5 
 inches in diameter and 1^ inches deep, where it remains without pressure for two or 
 three days, or until it will keep its form. The cheese is eaten fresh. 
 
 RABACAL. 
 
 This is a round, rather firm cheese made from the milk of sheep and goats in the 
 vicinity of Coimbra, Portugal. A cheese is 4 to 5 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick. 
 
 RADEN. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from skim milk in Mecklenburg. The cheeses 
 are 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches thick, and weigh 32 pounds. The process of 
 manufacture does not differ materially from that of Emmental. 
 
 RANGIPORT. 
 
 This cheese is in every way analogous to Port du Salut. It is about 6 inches in 
 diameter and 2\ inches thick and weighs about 2\ pounds. It is made in the Depart- 
 ment of Seine-et-Oise, France. 
 
 RAYON. 
 
 This is a special type of Emmental cheese made largely in the Canton of Fribourg, 
 Switzerland, for exportation to Italy, though some is now manufactured in Italy. 
 It is made of partly skimmed milk, and the cooking is continued to a point that insures 
 a very dry hard cheese which develops no eyes. After curing it is shipped largely 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 43 
 
 to Turin, where it is placed on edge on shelves in a dry, warm cave, and the fat leaks 
 out, leaving the cheese exceedingly dry and hard, when it is used for grating. After 
 the drying process the cheese is called Raper. 
 
 REBBIOLA. 
 
 Rebbiola, or Robiola, is a soft cheese made principally in the Alpine districts of 
 Italy. The process of manufacture is very simple. It is generally made from milk 
 skimmed after twelve hours, but whole milk is sometimes used. The cheese is circular 
 and weighs about 2 pounds. The ripening process is very rapid, requiring usually 
 twelve to fifteen days. The milk is set at a temperature of 90° F., the time allowed 
 being usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut fine and put into molds 8 inches 
 in diameter and 6 inches high, the bottom being perforated. Five hours later the 
 cheeses are removed from the molds and placed on a draining board covered with 
 straw. After two or three days they are salted and then ripened. 
 
 REBLOCHON. 
 
 This is a soft French cheese weighing 1 to 2 pounds. It is made from fresh whole 
 milk which is curdled with rennet at a temperature of 80° F. or above, the time 
 allowed being about thirty minutes. The curd is cut to the size of peas, cooked to 
 about 95°, and after the removal of the whey is put into molds about 6 inches in 
 diameter and 2 inches in height. A weight of about 5 pounds is placed upon each 
 cheese, which is turned frequently and salted after about twelve hours. In a moist 
 room having a temperature of about 60° the desired degree of ripening is secured in 
 four to five weeks. An imitation of this cheese, made in Savoy, France, is known as 
 Brizecon. 
 
 REINDEER MILK. 
 
 In Norway and Sweden the milk of the reindeer is sometimes used for cheesemak- 
 ing. Rennet is added at 100° F., and the curd is cut and dipped into a large frame, 
 where it is pressed lightly. The mass of curd is then cut into pieces 5 by 4 by 2\ 
 inches, which are salted on the surface and are allowed to ripen in a dry curing room. 
 
 RIESENGEBIRGE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from goat's milk in the mountains on the northern 
 border of Bohemia. The milk is set at about 90° F. The curd is broken up and the 
 whey dipped off, after which the curd is put in forms, where it remains in a warm 
 place for twenty-four hours. It is then covered with salt and after drying for three 
 to four days is placed in the curing cellar. From each 100 pounds of milk 1 8 pounds of 
 cheese is secured. 
 
 RINNEN. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese which was known in the eighteenth, century. It is made 
 in Pomerania from milk sufficiently acid to cause a precipitation of the curd when it 
 is warmed to about 90° F. The cheese derives its name from the wooden trough in 
 which it is laid to drain. The curd is broken up and heated to expel the whey. The 
 curd is kneaded by hand and caraway seed is added. It is molded into forms and 
 pressed. Salt is then rubbed on the outside. The cheese is dried and put in a box 
 to ripen. 
 
 ROLL. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made in England from unskimmed cow's milk. It is 
 cylindrical in shape, 8 inches high by 9 inches in diameter. A cheese weighs 20 
 pounds. 
 
44 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 ROLLOT. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese 2^ inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, made in the 
 Departments of Somme and Oise, France. 
 
 ROMADOUR. 
 
 Roniadour, Remoudou, or Romatur cheese is a southern Bavarian product similar 
 to Limburg. It is \\ by 2 by 2 inches in size and weighs ] pound. It is said to be 
 a little finer variety of cheese than Limburg and to sell for a slightly higher price. 
 
 ROQUEFORT. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep. There are, however, 
 numerous imitations or varieties closely resembling Roquefort, such as Gex and Sept- 
 moncel, made from cow's milk. One of the most striking characteristics of this cheese 
 is the mottled or marbled appearance of the interior, due to the development of a 
 penicillium, which is the principal ripening agent. The manufacture of Roquefort 
 cheese has been carried on in the southeastern part of France for at least two cen- 
 turies. The industry is particularly important in the Department of Aveyron, 
 in which is situated the village of Roquefort, from which the cheese derives its 
 name. It is also made in Corsica. Imitations of Roquefort cheese are made in various 
 countries. 
 
 The evening's milk is heated to 140° to 150° F., cooled, and kept over night. After 
 being skimmed it is mixed with the fresh morning's milk. The mixture is then set 
 with rennet at a temperature of about 90°. In from one to two hours after the addi- 
 tion of rennet the curd is cut until the particles are about the size of walnuts. The 
 whey which rises to the surface is dipped off and the curd is put into hoops which 
 are about 8£ inches in diameter and 3^ inches in height. The hoops are filled usu- 
 ally in three layers, a layer of moldy bread crumbs being interspersed between the 
 first and second and second and third layers. The bread used for this purpose is 
 prepared from wheat and barley flour with the addition of whey and a little vinegar. 
 It is thoroughly baked and kept in a moist place for four to six weeks, during which 
 time it becomes permeated with a growth of the mold referred to. The crust is re- 
 moved and the interior is crumbled very fine and sifted. The cheese is subjected to 
 pressure which is gradually increased for ten to twelve hours. It is turned usually 
 one hour after putting into hoops. At the end of about twelve hours it is wrapped 
 in cloth and taken to the first curing room. The cloths are frequently changed dur- 
 ing the ten to twelve days the cheese remains in this place. 
 
 Formerly the manufacture of the cheese up to this stage was carried on by the 
 shepherds themselves, but in recent years centralized factories have been established 
 and much of the milk is collected and there made into cheese. The cheese is then 
 taken to the caves. These are for the most part natural caverns which exist in large 
 numbers in the region of Roquefort. The temperature in these caves is 40° to 45°, 
 and the air circulates very freely through them. Recently, artificial caves have been 
 constructed and used. When the cheeses reach the caves they are salted, which 
 serves to check the growth of the mold on the surface. One or two days later they 
 are rubbed vigorously with cloth and are afterwards subjected to thorough scraping 
 with knives, a process formerly done by hand, but now much more satisfactorily and 
 economically by machinery. The salting, scraping, or brushing seems to check the 
 development of mold on the surface. In order to favor the growth of mold in the in- 
 terior, the cheese is pierced by machinery with 60 to 100 small steel needles, which 
 process permits the free access of air. The cheese may be sold after thirty to forty 
 days or may remain in the caves as long as five months, depending upon the degree of 
 ripening desired. The cheese loses during ripening by scraping and evaporation as 
 much as 25 per cent of the original weight. The weight when ripened is about A\ 
 to 5 pounds. 
 
VARIETIES OJF CHEESE. 45 
 
 SAANEN. 
 
 This is a type of Emmental cheese made in Switzerland from cow's milk. It is 
 sometimes known as Hartkase, Reibkase, and Walliskase. First mentioned in the 
 sixteenth century, it is still manufactured extensively at the present time and ex- 
 ported to a limited extent. It sells for a higher price than the regular Emmental. 
 The process of manufacture is identical with that of Emmental except that it is 
 cooked much dryer, takes much longer to cure, and keeps longer. The cheese weighs 
 from 10 to 20 pounds. The eyes are few and small. 
 
 The ripening period is never less than three years and many require as long as nine 
 years, the average being six years. The cheeses are kept to great ages, it being the 
 custom to make a cheese at the birth of a child and eat it at the burial feast or even 
 at the burial feast of a son of the child for whom it is made. One cheese is mentioned 
 as being two hundred years old and is considered a great honor to the household. 
 Many cheeses are kept until they are thirty years old. 
 
 SAGE. 
 
 This cheese is made by the ordinary Cheddar process, and may be of any of tha 
 various shapes and sizes in which that cheese is pressed. As seen when cut it has a 
 green mottled appearance. 
 
 Formerly sage cheese was made by mixing green sage leaves with the curd before 
 it was pressed. At the present time the flavor of sage is obtained by sage extract. 
 To secure the green mottles, succulent green corn is cut fine and the juice is pressed 
 out. A small portion of the milk is mixed with this juice and is set with rennet in a 
 small vat while the bulk of the milk is set in the ordinary manner. After the curd is 
 cut and is firm enough to be handled, the green curd from the small vat is mixed 
 with the uncolored curd, and the process is continued as in the Cheddar process. 
 This is a very popular variety of cheese with many consumers. 
 
 SAINT CLAUDE. 
 
 This is a small, square, goat's-milk cheese made in the region of Saint Claude, 
 France. The milk is curdled with rennet and the curd placed in molds for six to 
 eight hours. It is then salted and allowed to ripen, or may, however, be eaten when 
 fresh. A cheese weighs from one-quarter to one-half pound. 
 
 SAINT BENOIT. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Olivet, and is made in the Department of 
 Loiret, France. Charcoal is added to the salt which is applied to the exterior of the 
 cheese. Ripening requires from twelve to fifteen days in summer and eighteen to 
 twenty days in winter. A cheese is about 6 inches in diameter. 
 
 SAINT MARCELLIN. 
 
 This is a goat's-milk cheese made in the Department of Isere, France. Sheep's 
 milk or even cow's milk may be mixed with the goat's milk. A cheese is about 3 
 inches in diameter and three-fourths of an inch thick and weighs about one-fourth 
 pound. 
 
 SAINT REMY. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese differing but little from Pont 1'Eveque. It is made in 
 the Department of Haute-Saone, France. 
 
 SALOIO. 
 
 This is a kind of hand cheese made from skimmed cow's milk on farms in the region 
 of Lisbon, Portugal. It has the form of a short cylinder, measures l£ to 2 inches in 
 diameter, and weighs about 4 ounces. A similar cheese of about the same character 
 is made in Thomar, about 50 miles north of Lisbon. 
 
46 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 SAP SAGO. 
 
 This cheese is made from sour skimmed cow's milk principally in Glarus, Switzer- 
 land. It is known also as Schabzieger, Glarnerkase, Grunerkase, and Krauterkase. 
 It is claimed to have been made in the thirteenth century; the authentic history at 
 least dates back to the fifteenth century. Sap Sago is a small, hard green cheese fla- 
 vored with the leaves of a species of clover; it is shaped like a truncated cone, 4 inches 
 high, 3 inches in diameter at the base, and 2 inches at the top. This cheese is imported 
 to some extent into the United States under the name of Sap Sago. 
 
 The skimmed milk from which this cheese is made is not allowed to become sour 
 enough to coagulate on heating, as it would make too hard a curd. The milk when it 
 has reached the right acidity is heated to the boiling temperature while being, stirred. 
 Cold buttermilk is then added, as is also some whey having a high percentage of acid- 
 ity. The material coagulating on the surface is skimmed off. The milk is then 
 stirred while sufficient acid whey is added to precipitate the casein. When too little 
 whey is used the curd is too soft, and when too much is used it is too hard. The curd 
 is dipped with a skimmer and spread out to cool and then put in boxes and allowed to 
 drain and ferment. The box is kept at a temperature of about 60° F. and pressure is 
 applied by weighting with stones. Ripening is allowed to continue for three to six 
 weeks. If the temperature of the room is too high or there is not sufficient pressure, 
 too rapid and strong fermentation results. This curd is used for making the finished 
 product, but the cheese is seldom finished where the curd is made. The curd is 
 ground in a mill and every 100 pounds of cheese contains 5 pounds of salt and 25 
 pounds of dried Melilotus csenilea, an aromatic clover which is grown in the Canton of 
 Schweiz for the purpose. The ground material is worked up into a dough and is 
 forced into molds lined with linen cloth, and the name of the manufacturer is stamped 
 on the large end. The mold is then emptied and refilled. The cheeses are dumped 
 promiscuously into a large cask holding about 200 pounds. A comparatively small 
 quantity is shipped into this country. It sells at a low price and is usually grated. 
 
 SASSENAGE. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese, about 12 inches in diameter and 3 inches in height, 
 made from cow's milk to which small quantities of goat's and sheep's milk are usually 
 added. The cheese is almost identical with that of Gex and Septmoncel. It derives 
 its name from the village of Sassenage, near Grenoble, in the Department of Isere, 
 France. The milk used is usually a mixture of skimmed milk and whole milk. It is 
 set with rennet and the curd is cut and put into molds in the same manner as with the 
 other varieties mentioned. The same is also true of the ripening process, which 
 requires about two months. 
 
 SCANNO. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep in the Apennine Mountains, 
 in the Province of Abruzzo, Italy. It derives its name from the village of Scanno. 
 The surface of the cheese is colored a deep black. The interior is bright yellow and 
 has the consistency of butter. 
 
 SCARMORZE. 
 
 This is a small rennet cheese made in southern Italy from the milk of buffaloes. 
 
 SCHAMSER. 
 
 This cheese, which is also known as Rheinwaid, is a rennet cheese made from 
 skimmed cow's milk in the Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland. The cheeses weigh 
 from 40 to 45 pounds and are 18 inches in diameter and 5 inches high. 
 
VAKIETIES OF CHEESE. 47 
 
 SCHLOSS. 
 
 Schlosskase, or Castle cheese, is a Limburg cheese made in the northern part of 
 Austria. It is a soft cured rennet cheese 4 by 2 by 2 inches in size. When ready for 
 market it is wrapped in tin foil. 
 
 SCHOTTENGSIED. 
 
 This is a whey cheese made by the peasants of the Alps for home use. 
 
 SCHWARZENBERG. 
 
 This cheese is made in southern Bohemia and western Hungary. It is a rennet 
 cheese made from partly skimmed cow's milk. One part of skimmed milk is added to 
 two parts of fresh milk. In about one hour after the addition of rennet the curd is 
 broken up and thoroughly stirred. It is then dipped into wooden forms and light 
 pressure applied for half a day. For four or five days following the cheese is rubbed 
 with salt and is then taken to the cellar, where it is washed daily with salt water until 
 ripe, which requires two to three months. 
 
 SENECTERRE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese originating at Saint Nectaire, in the Department of 
 Puy-de-D6me, France. It is made out of whole milk, is cylindrical in shape, and 
 weighs about 1^ pounds. 
 
 SEPTMONCEL. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk to which a small proportion of 
 goat's milk is sometimes added. It resembles the Gex and Sassenage varieties very 
 closely and its process of manufacture is almost identical with that of Roquefort. It 
 is also known as Jura blue cheese. It derives its name from the village of Septmoncel, 
 near Saint-Claude, in the Department of Jura, where the cheese is for the most part 
 made. The cheese is made almost exclusively on isolated farms rather than in co- 
 operative dairies, and the methods employed are somewhat rudimentary. 
 
 The milk, which is usually partly skimmed, is set with rennet at a temperature of 
 about 85° F. The curd is cut and stirred after about one and one-half hours. After the 
 curd has settled the whey is poured off. The stirring and draining are repeated sev- 
 eral times until the curd is sufficiently firm to put into hoops. Moderate pressure is 
 applied for a few hours. The cheese is salted at the end of twenty-four hours and 
 thereafter daily for several days. It is then transferred to the first curing room, which 
 is kept cool and moist. After three to four weeks it has become covered with blue 
 mold, when it is transferred to cellars or-natural caves, where the ripening is completed 
 in from three to four weeks longer. 
 
 SERRA DA ESTRELLA. 
 
 This is the most highly prized of the several kinds of cheeses made in Portugal. 
 The name refers to the mountainous region in which the cheese is produced. It is 
 made for the most part from the milk of sheep, but goat's milk is often added to this 
 or even used alone, and occasionally cow's milk is used. 
 
 The method of making this cheese is comparatively simple. The milk is warmed 
 in a kettle with little regard to the temperature obtained, and is coagulated in most 
 cases by means of an extract of the flowers of a kind of thistle. The time required for 
 curdling varies from two to six hours, depending upon the amount of the extract used. 
 The curd is broken up with a ladle or by hand, squeezed to remove most of the whey, 
 and put into circular forms. After draining until sufficiently firm the cheeses are re- 
 moved from the hoops and allowed to ripen for several weeks, during which time they 
 are frequently washed with whey and salted on the surface. The cheeses vary much 
 
48 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 in size, the larger measuring about 10 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weigh- 
 ing about 5 pounds. The cheese is rather soft and has a pleasant acid taste. 
 A similar cheese made in another part of Portugal is known as Castello Branco. 
 
 SERVIAN. 
 
 In making Servian cheese the milk is warmed in a kettle over a fire or in a tub by 
 immersing heated stones. After the rennet is added the milk is allowed to stand one 
 hour. The curd is then lifted in a cloth and the whey allowed to drain. It is then 
 placed in a wooden vessel, salted, and covered successively with whey for about eight 
 days and fresh milk for about six clays. 
 
 SILESIAN. 
 
 A cheese known locally as Schlesischer Weichquarg is made from skimmed cow's 
 milk, the process of manufacture resembling that of hand cheese. The milk is allowed 
 to coagulate from souring and the curd is broken up and cooked at 100° F. for a short 
 period. The curd is then put in a cloth sack and light pressure applied for twenty-four 
 hours, after which it is kneaded by hand and salt and milk or cream are added. Fla- 
 voring substances such as onions or caraway seed are also sometimes added. The 
 cheese is eaten fresh. 
 
 Another cheese known as Schlesischer Sauermilchkase is also made in much the 
 same way as hand cheese. The cheeses are kept on shelves covered with straw, and 
 are dried by the stove in winter and in a latticework house in summer. Drying is con- 
 tinued until the cheese becomes very hard. The cheese is ripened in a cellar, the 
 process requiring three to eight weeks, during which time it is washed every few days 
 with warm water. 
 
 SIRAZ. 
 
 This is a Servian cheese made as a rule from whole milk. The milk is set at 104° F. 
 and the curd is lifted from the whey with a cloth and pressed into cakes 4 to 6 inches 
 in diameter and 1 inch thick. These cakes are placed in the sun to dry until the fat 
 commences to run, when they are rubbed several times with salt until a good crust is 
 formed. The cakes are then packed in a wooden vessel and allowed to ripen. The cut 
 surface shows a smooth appearance without holes. It is between a hard and a soft 
 cheese. 
 
 SLIPCOTE. 
 
 This cheese is made in Rutlandshire, England. It is a soft unripened rennet cheese, 
 made from cow's milk. The curd is dipped into small forms and no pressure is applied. 
 After the cheese is removed from the form the surface dries and cracks and is easily 
 slipped off, hence the name. It is an old cheese, having been well known in the mid- 
 dle of the eighteenth century. 
 
 SPALEN. 
 
 This is a type of Emmentai cheese, and is sometimes known as Stringer. Its origin 
 is unknown. It is made largely in the Canton of Unterwalden, Switzerland, from sweet 
 cow's milk, often partly skimmed. The name it derived from the vessel in which the 
 cheeses are transported and in which five or six of them are packed. This is a small 
 cheese for an Emmental type. Each cheese weighs from 35 to 40 pounds. 
 
 No thermometer is used in the manufacture, the temperature being judged by the 
 feeling, and a very uneven product is the result. The process of making seems to vary 
 much, the press consisting of a board with stones for weights, and the temperature of 
 the cellar being poorly regulated. 
 
 SPITZ. 
 
 This is a small rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The cheese is cylindrical in 
 shape, being 4 inches high and 1% inches in diameter. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 49 
 
 STEPPES. 
 
 This name is applied to a Russian cheese made from whole milk. The milk after the 
 addition of coloring matter is heated to about 90° F. and treated with sufficient rennet 
 to secure coagulation in forty to forty-five minutes. The curd is cut into large cubes, 
 the whey removed slowly, and the curd still further broken up until the particles are 
 uniformly about the size of peas. The curd is then heated gradually to 100° to 104°, 
 the mass meanwhile being gently agitated. The stirring is kept up for some time after 
 heating ceases until the curd becomes dry, when it is placed in molds 10 by 5£ by 7 
 inches. After the cheeses are removed from the molds they are turned frequently and 
 five hours later are salted and transferred to the curing cellar, where a temperature of 
 about 55° is maintained. During ripening the cheeses are worked occasionally with 
 salt water and turned frequently. 
 
 STILTON. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese, the best of which is made from cow's milk to which 
 a portion of cream has been added. It was first made near the village of Stilton, Hunt- 
 ingdonshire. England, about the middle of the eighteenth century. It is now made 
 principally in Leicestershire and West Rutlandshire, though its manufacture has 
 extended to other parts of England. Its manufacture has been tried, though without 
 success, in the United Slates. The cheese is about 7 inches in diameter and 9 inches 
 high, and weighs 12 to 15 pounds. It has a very characteristic wrinkled or ridged 
 skin or rind, which is likely caused by the drying of molds and bacteria on the sur- 
 face. When cut it shows blue or green portions of mold which give its characteristic 
 piquant flavor. The price in this country is about 45 cents a pound wholesale. The 
 cheese belongs to the same group as the Roquefort of France and the Gorgonzola of 
 Italy. 
 
 The morning's milk is put in a tin vat and the cream from the night's milk is added, 
 and the whole is brought to a temperature of 80° F.. when the rennet is added. It 
 is claimed by some cheese makers that the curd should be softer when broken up or 
 cut than the curd for Cheddar cheese, while by others it is believed that it should 
 become very firm before it is disturbed, allowing one to two hours for setting. When 
 sufficiently firm the curd is dipped into cloths which are placed in tin strainers. After 
 draining for one hour the cloths containing the curd are packed closely together in 
 a large tub and allowed to remain for twelve hours, when they are again tightened 
 and packed for eighteen hours. The curd is ground up coarse, and salt is added, 
 1 pound to 60 pounds of curd. The curd is then put into tin hoops 8 inches in diam- 
 eter and 10 inches deep. The cheeses remain in the hoops for six days, when they 
 are bandaged for twelve days, or until they become firm, and are then placed in the 
 curing room at 05°. Ripened Stilton cheese is of late often ground up and put into 
 jars holding 1 to 2\ pounds. 
 
 STRACCHINO. 
 
 This name is applied to several forms of Italian soft cheeses, the best known of 
 which is Stracchino di Gorgonzola. which is described under the name of Gorgonzola. 
 A square form 6 to 8 inches on a side and \\ inches thick is known as Stracchino di 
 Milano, Fresco, Quadro, or Quartirola. This cheese is prepared similarly to Gorgonzola 
 but is allowed to ripen for only about two months. It is not much exported. Strac- 
 chino Crescenza is a very soft and highly colored cheese usually eaten fresh. The 
 form is similar to that of the Quartirola. It is usually marketed in about eight days 
 and can not be kept long. 
 
 STYRIA. 
 
 This is a cylindrical-shaped cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk in Styria, 
 Austria. 
 
50 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 SWEET CURD. 
 
 This is a name applied in the United States to a hard rennet cheese made from 
 cow's milk. The name is used to distinguish it from the ordinary Cheddar or granu- 
 lar process, as in making Sweet Curd cheese the milk is set sweet and the cutting and 
 cooking are done rapidly without regard to the development of acid. In making 
 this cheese the curd is cooked very firm and is salted and put to press immediately. 
 In all other respects the process is the same as for Cheddar, and the cheese when ripened 
 resembles that cheese very closely. 
 
 SWISS. 
 
 Swiss or Schweitzer cheese belongs to the Emmental group of cheeses and is made 
 usually from half-skimmed cow's milk. Its manufacture is very old. It is supposed 
 to have originated in the Alps, but is now made in most of the surrounding countries. 
 It is made mostly in the winter season when the price of butter is high, and only for 
 local consumption. Its manufacture differs from real Emmental in that it is made 
 from half-skimmed milk. The morning's milk is first heated and the skimmed even- 
 ing's milk is added. The curd is cut coarser and is not cooked so firm as Emmental, 
 which gives a softer and more quickly ripened cheese. 
 
 TAFI. 
 
 This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Tucuman, in the Argentine Republic. 
 
 TAMIE. 
 
 This cheese is made by the Trappists in Savoy, France. The whole milk is heated 
 to about 80° F. and coagulated with rennet in about thirty minutes. The curd is 
 cut fine, cooked to about 100°, stirred, and put into molds 7 inches in diameter and 
 4 inches in height. The cheese is pressed for six to eight hours, the cloths being 
 changed frequently. After being salted the cheese is ripened for five to six weeks. 
 The method of manufacture is, to a large extent, a trade secret. The Tome de Beau- 
 mont is a more or less successful imitation. 
 
 TEXEL. 
 
 This is a sheep's-milk cheese made in Holland. It was known in the seventeenth 
 century. A cheese weighs 3 to 4 pounds and is colored green. 
 
 THENAY. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Vendome and is made in the 
 region of Thenay in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. It is of comparatively 
 recent origin and its consumption is limited practically to the region in which it is 
 produced. 
 
 The evening's milk without being skimmed is mixed with the fresh morning's milk. 
 The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F. and allowed to stand for 
 four to five hours. The curd is then broken up and put into hoops about 5 inches 
 in diameter and 4 inches in height. After draining for about one day it is turned and 
 salted. The cheese is then kept for about twenty days in a well-ventilated room 
 during which time it becomes covered with molds. It is then taken to the curing cellar 
 for about fifteen days. 
 
 TIGNARD. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese, resembling Gex and Sassenage, made from sheep's 
 and goat's milk in the valley of the Tigne, in Savoy, France. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 51 
 
 TILSIT. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cheese made mainly in East Prussia from unskimmed cow's 
 milk. It is sometimes called Ragnit. The milk is set at 92° F. with sufficient rennet 
 to coagulate in from fifteen to forty minutes. The curd is rather coarsely cut or broken 
 and is cooked to 104° to 110°, being stirred meanwhile with a harp. The curd is cooked 
 quite firm or until it can not be squeezed through between the fingers, which requires 
 about forty minutes. It is then dipped into cylindrical forms, where it remains 
 twenty-four hours. The cheese is then covered thickly with salt for from one to two 
 days, when it is put into a salt bath for three to five days and then transferred to the 
 cellar. Here it is rubbed and washed with salt water frequently, and allowed to ripen 
 for four to six months. The cheese is 6 to 12 inches in diameter, 3 to 4 J inches in 
 height, and weighs from G to 28 pounds. It resembles in general characteristics the 
 Brick cheese of the United States. 
 
 TOPPEN. 
 
 This is a German sour-milk cheese made from skim milk and eaten while fresh. It 
 is put up in small packages weighing about 1 ounce. 
 
 TRAPPIST. 
 
 This cheese originated with the Trappists in 1885 in the monastery of Mariastern, 
 near Banjaluka, in Bosnia. The fresh milk is heated to about 85° F. and rennet is 
 added. After one to one and one-half hours the curd, without being cut or stirred, 
 is put into hoops and pressed, after which it is salted and ripened. The growth of 
 mold is entirely prevented by frequent washing and thus the cheese ripens uniformly 
 throughout. The ripening period of the smaller cheeses is five to six weeks in summer, 
 but the cheese is usually shipped at the end of four to five weeks. The cheese is pale 
 yellow in color and has a remarkably mild taste. Although this cheese is to be classed 
 among the soft varieties, the water content is often below 45 per cent. The ripening 
 is also more characteristic of the hard cheeses. The smallest size of the cheese made 
 in the monastery referred to has a diameter of 6 inches, a height of 2 inches, and weighs 
 2 to 3 pounds. A larger size measures 9 inches in diameter, 2h inches in height, and 
 weighs about 10 pounds. There is also a still larger size. The cheese is exported to a 
 large extent to Austria and Hungary, the most important centers of the trade in these 
 regions being Gratz and Budapest. It is, however, found in all of the large cities of 
 Austria, and the demand appears to he constantly increasing. 
 
 TRAVNIK. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made usually from whole sheep's milk to which a small 
 amount of goat's milk is added. Skimmed milk, however, is sometimes used. It is 
 also known as Arnauten and Vlasic. This cheese originated in Albania in the north- 
 western part of Turkey in Europe and has been made for at least a century. In the 
 country of origin it was known at first by the name Arnautski Sir or Arnauten cheese. 
 At the present time it is made in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but principally in the Vlasic 
 Plain. The center of trade in this cheese is Travnik in Bosnia. 
 
 The fresh warm milk is treated with sufficient rennet to secure coagulation in one and 
 one-fourth to two hours and is then allowed to stand for a short time until the coagulum 
 contracts and the whey appears on the surface. The curd is then put into woolen 
 sacks and drained for seven to eight hours, when it is pressed into flattened balls by 
 hand. These are dried for a short time in the open air and then packed into wooden 
 receptacles varying in diameter from 14 to 28 inches, having a height of about 24 inches, 
 and holding from 50 to "130 pounds of cheese. Each layer of cheese is salted and 
 pressed so that no air spaces are left. When the receptacle is filled the whey usually 
 shows at the surface, any excess being removed. Moderate pressure is applied to the 
 
52 VARIETIES OP CHEESE. 
 
 cover placed upon the cheese. When fresh, the cheese made from whole sheep's milk 
 has a soft consistency, a nearly white color, and a pleasant, mild taste. The cheese, 
 however, is usually allowed to ripen for two weeks to several months. No holes should 
 develop in the cheese. 
 
 TROUVILLE. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made in the same locality as Pont l'Ev&que and is of the 
 same nature though superior in quality. Only fresh whole milk is used. The tem- 
 perature of setting with rennet is 85° to 95° F. The growth of molds during ripening is 
 prevented by frequent washing with salt water. 
 
 TROYES. 
 
 Two kinds of cheese are referred to by this name — one a washed cheese with a yellow 
 rind, known as Ervy, and the other a cheese very closely resembling Camembert and 
 known as Barberey. The industry is quite restricted. 
 
 TWOROG. 
 
 This is a sour-milk cheese made in Russia. The soured milk is kept in a warm place 
 for twenty-four hours, when the whey is removed and the curd put into wooden forms 
 and subjected to pressure. This cheese is made on a large scale by farmers and is often 
 used in making a bread called "Notruschki." 
 
 URI. 
 
 This is a hard rennet cow's-milk cheese made in the Canton of Uri, Switzerland. It 
 has a diameter of 8 to 12 inches, and is 8 inches high. It weighs 20 to 40 pounds. 
 
 VACHERIN. 
 
 This name is applied to two quite different kinds of cheese. . 
 
 The form designated Vacherin a la Main is made in Switzerland and in Savoy, France. 
 Whole cow's milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., and the curd is 
 cut very fine and put into hoops 12 inches in diameter and 5 to 6 inches high. It is 
 salted and ripened. The rind is firm and hard but the interior is almost liquid in con- 
 sistency. It is either spread on bread or eaten with a spoon. A ripened cheese weighs 
 from 5 to 10 pounds. A cheese of this kind made in the same region is known locally as 
 Tome de Montagne. 
 
 The form designated Vacherin Fondu is made in much the same manner as Emmen- 
 tal cheese. The ripened cheese is then melted and spices are added. 
 
 VENDOME. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Thenay, and is made in the 
 region of Venddme in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. 
 
 The warm morning's milk is usually mixed with that of the previous evening, which 
 secures ordinarily a setting temperature of 75° to 85° F., which is desired. The period 
 of setting is four to five hourL in summer and five to six hours in winter. The curd is 
 then broken up and put into hoops about 5 inches in diameter and 4 inches in height. 
 After draining for twenty-four hours the cheese is turned and salted, which process is 
 twice repeated at intervals of twelve hours. When sufficiently dried it is placed in the 
 curing cellar where it is often buried in ashes. This cheese is placed by some on a 
 rank with Camembert. The principal market is Paris. 
 
 VILLIERS. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese made in the Department of Haute-Marne, France. It is a 
 square cheese weighing about 1 pound. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 53 
 
 VOID. 
 
 This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Pont l'Eveque and Limburg. It is made in 
 the Department of Meuse, France. The milk is set with rennet at a high temperature, 
 the whey is removed as rapidly as possible, and the cheeses during ripening are washed 
 frequently with salt water. 
 
 VORARLBERG SOUR-MILK. 
 
 This, as the name indicates, is made from sour cow's milk. It is semicircular in 
 shape and varies in size. It is essentially a hard cheese. 
 
 The sweet milk is put in a kettle and raised to 77° F., and sour thickened milk is 
 added and the mixture stirred and heated to 95°, at which temperature it coagulates. 
 While, this is being stirred with a curd scoop the temperature is raised to 105°. The 
 curd is then dipped into forms, where it is turned a few times during twenty-four 
 hours. Salt is rubbed on the surface and the cheese is placed in a room having a tem- 
 perature of 67°. The cheese is then placed in a cask and held for three days, and salt 
 is sprinkled over the surface daily. The ripening is completed in a cellar. When 
 ripe the cheese is greasy and has a very strong odor and flavor. 
 
 WEISSLAK. 
 
 This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the Bavarian Algau, Ger- 
 many. The cheese weighs about 2^ pounds, and is rectangular in shape, 4^ by 4 by 
 3A inches. 
 
 WENSLEYDALE. 
 
 This cheese derives its name from the valley in Yorkshire, England, in which it is 
 made. It is a rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. It is cylindrical in shape 
 and weighs from 5 to 15 pounds. 
 
 In the old method of manufacture the evening's milk is heated to 100° F., and the 
 fresh morning's milk is added. It is set with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in thirty- 
 five minutes. The breaking or cutting process requires thirty-five minutes, after 
 which the curd is allowed to stand for forty-five minutes at 90°. The whey is then 
 removed, and the curd is put in vats lined with cloth and light pressure is applied for 
 thirty minutes. The curd is broken up and allowed to drain for one hour. It is then 
 milled and is pressed for twenty-four hours, when it is wrapped in cloth, and finally 
 put in brine for three days. 
 
 In the new method of manufacture the evening's milk and the morning's milk are 
 mixed in a copper kettle, heated to 95°, and enough rennet is added to coagulate it in 
 forty-five minutes. The curd is then broken up by hand or with a breaker. The 
 whey is removed and the curd dipped into tin hoops where it drains for three hours. 
 It is then turned and drained for another three hours. After pressing for twenty-four 
 hours, the cheese is salted by immersion in brine for three days. 
 
 WEST FRIESIAN. 
 
 This is a rennet cheese made from skimmed cow's milk. The milk is set in a copper 
 kettle, one hour being allowed for coagulation. The curd is broken up and placed in 
 a wooden tub, where it is kneaded. The curd is allowed to stand for several hours and 
 then salted. It is pressed for three hours, washed in hot water, wrapped in a fine 
 cloth, and again pressed for twelve hours. The cheese is eaten when one week old. 
 
 WESTPHALIA SOUR-MILK. 
 
 This is a hand cheese made in Westphalia. Sour milk is stirred and heated to 100° 
 F., and placed in a sack and the whey pressed out. The curd is then kneaded by 
 hand and salted, butter and caraway seed or pepper being added. It is then molded 
 by hand, dried for a few hours, and ripened in a cellar. 
 
54 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 WHITE. 
 
 Fromage Blanc, or White cheese, is a skim-milk cheese made in France during the 
 summer months. The milk is set with rennet at about 75° F. The curd is usually- 
 molded into cylindrical forms. The cheese is consumed while fresh and may or may 
 not be salted, 
 
 WITHANIA. 
 
 This is so called because made with rennet manufactured from withania berries. 
 Cheese made with the rennet of these berries is said to have an agreeable flavor if 
 ripened to the right degree, but it develops an acrid flavor with age. The texture is 
 not so good as with animal rennet. This form of rennet is recommended for use in 
 India, where the religion and prejudice of the people make the use of animal rennet 
 impractical. 
 
 ZIEGEL. 
 
 This is a cheese made in-Austria either from whole cow's milk or from whole milk 
 to which 15 per cent of cream has been added. The cheese measures 3 by 2 by 2\ 
 inches, and weighs about one-half pound. 
 
 In making the whole-milk cheese the milk is warmed to 95° F. and sufficient rennet 
 is added to coagulate it in thirty minutes. The curd is broken up with a harp and cut 
 loose from the bottom of the vessel, after which it is allowed to remain undisturbed 
 for thirty minutes. At the end of this time the curd, which is again matted together, 
 is cut into pieces and stirred gently for a considerable time, after which it is allowed 
 to stand again for fifteen minutes. The collected whey is then dipped off and the 
 curd is dipped into forms which are 24 inches long, 5 inches high, and hold the curd 
 of 7h to 8 gallons of milk. Before the form is filled a cheese cloth is placed in it which 
 helps in turning the curd. The curd remains in the form twenty-four hours to drain 
 and is then cut into measured sizes and placed in another form, where it is allowed to 
 remain for eight days, the curd being turned and the board on which the form rests 
 being changed daily. Salt is then sprinkled on the cheese and for one month it is 
 washed in salt water and rubbed with the hands every day. It is ready for market 
 in eight weeks from the time of making. 
 
 ZIGER. 
 
 This is a cheese made from the whey obtained in the manufacture of other cheese. 
 It consists principally of albumin, but where no effort is made to separate the fat 
 from the whey the product may contain a relatively high proportion of fat. It is a 
 cheap food product made in all the countries of Central Europe. Among the many 
 names applied to it are Albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, 
 and Ceracee. 
 
 In the manufacture of this product an effort is sometimes made to remove the fat 
 remaining in the whey, but in most cases the fat is allowed to remain. Where it is 
 desired to skim the whey a small portion of very sour whey, previously prepared, is 
 added to the sweet whey and the whole is heated to 160° to 175° F. for a few minutes, 
 when the fat collects on the surface and can lie skimmed off. Following this a greater 
 portion of sour whey is added and the whey is then heated nearly to the boiling point, 
 when the albumin is precipitated in a flocculent condition and rises to the surface of 
 the whey. When the whey is not in normal condition the albumin may be precipi- 
 tated in a powdery' mass. This is often prevented by adding 3 to 5 per cent of butter- 
 milk to the whey before the last heating. The casein of the buttermilk is precipitated, 
 the albumin being carried with it. It is considered that this addition of casein injures 
 the product. The albumin when skimmed from the whey is salted and packed in a 
 vessel and may be covered with whey. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 55 
 
 A so-called formed Ziger cheese is made by molding the half-dried albumin into 
 squares which may be still further dried. Some of these have local names, such as 
 the Hudelziger made in the Canton of Glarus, Switzerland. 
 
 In Vorarlberg the albumin is skimmed from the whey, allowed to cool, placed in 
 cheese cloth, and subjected to increasing pressure in an Emmental cheese press. 
 After twenty-four hours the cheese is put into a salt bath to which sweet cider and 
 vinegar are sometimes added. 
 
 A mixture of Ziger and cream prepared in the Savoy is known as Gruau de Montagne. 
 An albumin cheese made from the whey of goat's-milk cheese in the Canton of Grau- 
 biinden, Switzerland, is known as Mascarponi. 
 
ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 
 
 Varietj 
 
 Alemtejo. . 
 
 Backstein. . 
 
 Battelmatt 
 
 Bellelay . . . 
 
 Bondon. . . 
 
 Brick 
 
 Brie 
 
 Brie- 
 American 
 
 Brinsen 
 
 Burgundy . . . 
 Caciocavallo . 
 
 Caerphilly . . . 
 Cambridge. . 
 Camembert.. 
 
 Cantal . 
 
 Authority/' 
 
 2Si umber of 
 analyses. 
 
 Water. Fat. 
 
 Hoffman. 
 Pereira . . 
 
 (Average. . . 
 
 4-^ Maximum . 
 
 [Minimum. 
 
 Fleischmann. 
 
 Lindt 2. 
 
 Eugling. 
 
 Benecke 
 
 Lindt 
 
 Chattaway . 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Weems 
 
 Balland 
 
 Blyth... 
 Duclaux . 
 
 von-Klenze. 
 Lindet 
 
 Payen 
 
 {Average . . . 
 Maximum . 
 Minimum. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 (Average. . . 
 5^ Maximum. 
 
 I Minimum. 
 1 
 
 Arnold 1 . 
 
 Johnson 1 . 
 
 Maior 2. 
 
 Melikoff 3 
 
 Balland . 
 Sartori. . 
 
 (Average. . . 
 Spica 9< Maximum. 
 
 [Minimum. 
 
 Chattaway j 1 
 
 Chattaway 1 
 
 Arnold 1 
 
 Balland ; 1 
 
 Chattaway 2 
 
 Duclaux 1 
 
 Kriiger 1 
 
 Lindet ; 1 
 
 Macoir 1 
 
 Muter ! 1 
 
 Payen 1 
 
 Ro'llet 1 
 
 Stutzer 1 
 
 Balland. 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Patrick (2) . 
 
 {Average . . . 
 Maximum 
 Minimum . 
 1 
 
 Per ct. 
 30.22 
 41.11 
 48.39 
 32.97 
 (73. 12 
 \61.04 
 (45. 24 
 (35.80 
 47.71 
 50.53 
 44.24 
 39.62 
 37.59 
 39.50 
 54. 30 
 3S.69 
 (48. 80 
 \43. 90 
 51.90 
 50.04 
 53.84 
 46.06 
 55.69 
 53.50 
 (53. 99 
 \45.25 
 
 41.50 
 60.20 
 (49.20 
 \37. 70 
 43. 10 
 49.70 
 52.20 
 29.50 
 (19. 76 
 \22.09 
 23.68 
 33.24 
 15.34 
 24.80 
 32.10 
 50.41 
 49.00 
 47.90 
 43.40 
 45.24 
 59.42 
 53.80 
 49.87 
 48.78 
 51.94 
 52.98 
 50.90 
 28. 50 
 35.10 
 39.00 
 43.48 
 44.80 
 40.70 
 40.90 
 39.92 
 
 Per ct. 
 38.25 
 27.49 
 31.59 
 25.27 
 2.76 
 6.80 
 28.16 
 37.40 
 24.08 
 29.42 
 20.52 
 30.10 
 30.05 
 24. 40 
 23.00 
 28.86 
 22.45 
 28.93 
 24.80 
 27.50 
 29. 50 
 24.60 
 21.42 
 22.50 
 24.83 
 25.73 
 
 36.15 
 20.96 
 22.30 
 32.60 
 27.70 
 27.00 
 26.20 
 38.55 
 36.71 
 35.^0 
 25.49 
 30.09 
 19.00 
 30.40 
 47.10 
 20. 55 
 21.65 
 21.90 
 22.60 
 30.31 
 17.24 
 22.00 
 25. 54 
 21.35 
 21.05 
 23.71 
 27.30 
 34.10 
 28.30 
 26. 90 
 25.70 
 31.10 
 22.50 
 29.30 
 28.14 
 
 Pro- 
 
 teids, 
 
 amids, 
 
 etc. 
 
 Per ct. 
 20.87 
 21.45 
 24.33 
 17.77 
 19.84 
 23.85 
 23.14 
 24.44 
 22.99 
 24.48 
 21.22 
 25. 70 
 28.88 
 9.40 
 16.10 
 23.80 
 19.94 
 19.04 
 18.10 
 18.34 
 19.94 
 17.16 
 17.29 
 18.00 
 14.94 
 18.48 
 
 17.63 
 15.94 
 23.10 
 25.20 
 19. &0 
 14.30 
 14.40 
 28.84 
 37.83 
 36.06 
 29.25 
 35.09 
 22.16 
 37.20 
 24.60 
 25.49 
 18.72 
 21.80 
 24.40 
 19.75 
 17.13 
 17.10 
 18.76 
 21.07 
 18.90 
 19.12 
 18.66 
 28.38 
 24.98 
 24.22 
 22.55 
 24.10 
 21.50 
 20.50 
 28.84 
 
 Per ct. 
 3.06 
 4.66 
 5.24 
 
 3.82 
 2.17 
 3.48 
 
 Milk 
 sugar, 
 lactic 
 acid, 
 etc. 
 
 2.35 
 3.35 
 2.25 
 
 4.85 
 6.63 
 
 4.93 
 
 1.37 
 1.00 
 2.70 
 1.20 
 1.80 
 1.30 
 1.65 
 
 Total 
 ash. 
 
 4.46 
 7.22 
 5.93 
 6.47 
 7.50 
 4.30 
 
 Per ct. 
 7.60 
 6.07 
 6.40 
 5.87 
 2.11 
 4.83 
 3.46 
 2.36 
 2.87 
 3.14 
 2.71 
 4.72 
 3.48 
 .70 
 5.00 
 4.20 
 3.96 
 1.50 
 5.00 
 4.12 
 4.37 
 3.57 
 5.60 
 4.00 
 5.63 
 5.61 
 
 4.70 
 1.53 
 4.40 
 5.80 
 7.30 
 6.80 
 6.00 
 1.46 
 5.60 
 5.S 
 7.63 
 10.50 
 5.79 
 3.40 
 4.40 
 3.52 
 4. 
 4.70 
 3. 
 4.70 
 1.56 
 4.40 
 5.83 
 3.46 
 4.71 
 4.19 
 3.14 
 4.56 
 4.40 
 3.95 
 
 4.80 
 4.50 
 
 56 
 
 a See Sources of analytical data for details. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 Analyses of cheese — Continued. 
 
 57 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Pro- 
 
 Milk 
 
 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Authority 
 
 Number of 
 analyses. 
 
 Water 
 
 Fat. 
 
 teids, 
 
 amids 
 
 etc. 
 
 lactic 
 acid, 
 etc. 
 
 ' Total 
 ash. 
 
 Salt in 
 
 ash. 
 
 
 
 
 Per et. 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 
 Cheddar- 
 
 
 [Average 
 
 34.04 
 
 35.56 
 
 26.87 
 
 
 3.40 
 
 
 
 
 S^Maximum . 
 [Minimum. . 
 
 38.50 
 
 2S.11 
 
 41.03 
 31.19 
 
 28.15 
 25.57 
 
 
 4.05 
 2.71 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (Average 
 
 24.93 
 
 32. 02 
 
 38.01 
 
 
 4.42 
 
 
 
 
 79] Maximum. . 
 
 40.04 
 
 52. 03 
 
 55. 27 
 
 
 8.86 
 
 
 
 
 1 Minimum. .. 
 
 3.55 
 
 23.20 
 
 27. 07 
 
 
 2.41 
 
 
 
 Clark 
 
 [Average 
 
 89<Maximum . . 
 
 31.97 
 
 38. 10 
 
 27.72 
 36.94 
 
 34. 02 
 41.47 
 
 
 3. 54 
 4 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (Minimum... 
 
 26.64 
 
 L9. 58 
 
 28. 7:; 
 
 
 2.59 
 
 
 
 
 13 Average 
 
 41.1.-, 
 [35.38 
 
 15. 39 
 32. 50 
 
 40.10 
 23.91 
 
 
 
 3.33 
 
 3.73 
 
 
 
 
 Cooke 
 
 3 
 
 
 27.70 
 37. 52 
 
 25.58 
 20. 19 
 
 
 3.96 
 
 3.71 
 
 
 
 
 
 (34.62 
 
 
 
 
 
 Drew 
 
 201 Average. . .. 
 
 [Average 
 
 Maximum. . 
 
 31.05 
 
 40. 32 
 
 35. 54 
 20. 05 
 
 33.41 
 
 29.89 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3.74 
 
 
 
 fioessmann 
 
 4. r >. 41 
 
 37. 32 
 
 34.94 
 
 
 5.14 
 
 
 
 
 [Minimum. . . 
 
 35.83 
 
 15. 77 
 
 22. 13 
 
 
 2. 35 
 
 
 
 
 [Average. . . 
 
 33.09 
 
 38.78 
 
 2l.'.i:: 
 
 1 . 99 
 
 4.09 
 
 
 
 Patrick (11 
 
 1 1" [Ma ximuin . 
 
 38. 36 
 
 49. 56 
 
 31.70 
 
 2. 34 
 
 4.73 
 
 
 
 
 iMinimum. . 
 
 26. 48 
 
 24.77 
 
 15.38 
 
 1.05 
 
 2. 43 
 
 
 
 Snyder 
 
 5 Average 
 
 506 Average.. - 
 
 32. 71 
 37.14 
 
 35.25 
 34.65 
 
 20. Nl 
 23. 64 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 4.57 
 
 
 
 
 (Average. .. 
 
 36. 84 
 
 33. s:{ 
 
 23,. 72 
 
 
 c 5. 01 
 
 
 
 
 Mn' Maximum . 
 
 43.89 
 
 30. 79 
 
 20. 1 1 
 
 
 7.02 
 
 
 
 
 I Minimum. . 
 
 32. 69 
 
 30.00 
 
 20.80 
 
 
 3. 12 
 
 
 
 Van Slyke 
 
 [Average. . . 
 
 36.06 
 
 34. 43 
 
 24.45 
 
 .01 
 
 3.01 
 
 
 
 
 ^■Maximum . 
 
 41.15 
 
 45.30 
 
 28. 72 
 
 .76 
 
 5. 29 
 
 
 
 
 I Minimum. . 
 
 32. 23 
 
 23. 27 
 
 18.45 
 
 .51 
 
 1.81 
 
 
 
 
 [Average. . . 
 GA Maximum . 
 
 34.01 
 
 30.81 
 
 2:,. 119 
 
 
 c :\. 50 
 
 
 
 
 38. 10 
 
 44. 33 
 
 30.09 
 
 
 4.59 
 
 
 
 
 
 IMinimum. . 
 
 29.85 
 
 27 22 
 
 21.53 
 
 
 •-> 70 
 
 
 
 \ oelcker 
 
 4 Average 
 
 32. 39 
 
 31.44 
 
 20. 57 
 
 5. 02 
 
 4.57 
 
 1.49 
 
 
 
 [Average 
 
 3G.42 
 
 36. 95 
 
 21.15 
 
 1.36 
 
 3. SI 
 
 
 
 w ailace 
 
 15ff-j Maximum .. 
 
 41.6.5 
 
 46. 80 
 
 32.09 
 
 2.08 
 
 4.01 
 
 
 
 
 IMinimum... 
 
 30. 25 
 
 21.77 
 
 14.11 
 
 .41 
 
 2. 55 
 
 
 
 
 
 130.53 
 
 41.58 
 
 23. 38 
 
 2.45 
 
 2.06 
 
 
 
 M ilson 
 
 3 
 
 ^31.70 
 143.82 
 
 36.18 
 
 5.98 
 
 27. 19 
 45.04 
 
 1.95 
 3.12 
 
 2.98 
 2.06 
 
 
 Cheddar— 
 
 
 
 
 Canadian 
 
 Chattaway 
 
 1 
 
 
 30. 60 
 
 27.60 
 
 
 3.60 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 [Average 
 
 34.07 
 
 22.54 
 
 40.02 
 
 
 3.45 
 
 
 
 Clark 
 
 
 36.58 
 32.28 
 
 25. 67 
 20.13 
 
 43.52 
 33. 82 
 
 
 3.93 
 3.14 
 
 
 
 
 IMinimum.. . 
 
 
 
 
 
 59 Average 
 
 34. 60 
 
 35.51 
 
 23.18 
 
 
 c6.70 
 
 
 
 Shuttelworth > 
 
 Average ft... 
 
 32. 53 
 
 30. 00 
 
 23.94 
 
 
 (•7.48 
 
 
 
 
 135 Average g... 
 
 30. 54 
 
 33.81 
 
 23. 96 
 
 
 <■ 5. 69 
 
 
 Chedda r— 
 
 
 135 Average i. . . 
 
 33. r>i 
 
 32.97 
 
 24.94 
 
 
 c8.58 
 
 
 English 
 
 Blyth 
 
 2 Average 
 [Average 
 
 28. 10 
 35. 00 
 
 22.50 
 29.02 
 
 45. 60 
 
 27. 72 
 
 
 4.10 
 3.12 
 
 
 
 
 . ... 
 
 
 
 ( hat taway 
 
 4 Maximum. . 
 
 37.70 
 
 30.50 
 
 29.00 
 
 
 4. 30 
 
 
 
 
 IMinimum... 
 
 33.00 
 
 25. 00 
 
 26. 70 
 
 
 3.90 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 30 34 
 
 
 22. 98 
 30 15 
 
 2.10 
 
 4.22 
 3. 21 
 4.58 
 4.05 
 
 
 
 IIa.ssall 
 
 1 
 
 30. 10 
 
 36 54 
 
 
 
 Jones 
 
 1 
 
 30. 04 
 
 30 40 
 
 •>s 'IS 
 
 
 
 
 
 | Average 
 
 35.52 
 
 30. 33 
 
 30.04 
 
 
 
 
 Lloyd 
 
 
 37.73 
 32. 85 
 
 34. 05 
 24. 00 
 
 35. 10 
 22. 77 
 
 
 4.60 
 3.40 
 
 
 
 
 iMinimum. . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 (Average 
 
 35. If, 
 
 30.45 
 
 27.80 
 
 3.16 
 
 3.42 
 
 .70 
 
 
 \ oelcker 
 
 13 Maximum . . 
 
 39. 43 
 
 41. 58 
 
 32.37 
 
 6.80 
 
 4. SI 
 
 1.55 
 
 
 
 IMinimum. . 
 
 30.32 
 
 23. 21 
 
 23. 28 
 
 .22 
 
 2.00 
 
 .09 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 35. 22 
 
 27. 91 
 
 33.47 
 
 
 3.40 
 
 
 Cheddar— 
 
 
 
 Queensland 
 
 Brunnicb 
 
 2 
 
 31.62 
 
 27. (,7 
 
 35.17 
 37.35 
 
 24. 59 
 26.24 
 
 
 
 4.09 
 4.04 
 
 1.41 
 
 a The 15 analyses are each Hie. average of 5 monthly analyses 
 
 YV ailace. 
 
 The green cheese was analyzed by 
 
 i> Green cheese made at New York State Agricultural Experiment Station ls'i" 
 
 c Sugar, ash, etc. 
 
 d Green cheese made at numerous factories in New York, 1892 and 1893 
 
 « Age of cheese, seven weeks. 
 
 /Age of cheese, five months. 
 
 9 Green cheese 
 
 i> Age of cheese, 1 month. 
 
 i Cured cheese. 
 
58 
 
 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 Analyses of cheese — Continued. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Cheshire. 
 
 Cotherstone. . 
 Coulommiers. 
 
 Cream — 
 English. 
 
 Cream — 
 
 French Demi-Sel. 
 
 Crescenza 
 
 Danish Export. 
 
 Derbyshire. 
 Dorset 
 
 Dnnlop. 
 Edam. . 
 
 Edam — American . 
 
 Emmental. 
 
 Engandine 
 
 Formaggini di Lecco. 
 Gammelost 
 
 Oervais. 
 
 Authority. 
 
 Arnold 
 
 Balland 
 
 Blades 
 
 Chattaway . 
 
 Griffiths.... 
 Lindet 
 
 Payen 
 
 Voelcker 
 
 Griffiths.... 
 
 Voelcker 
 
 Balland 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Chattaway. 
 
 llassall 
 
 Payen 
 
 Vieth 
 
 Balland 
 
 Lindet. .. 
 Duclaux. 
 
 Storch. 
 
 Sheldon.. 
 Griffiths. 
 Vieth.... 
 Jones 
 
 Arnold. . 
 Balland.. 
 
 Dahl . 
 
 Hassall 
 
 von Ivlenze. 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Mayer 
 
 Patrick (2). 
 
 Payen 
 
 Haecker. 
 
 VanSlyke. 
 
 Hornig 
 
 von Klenze. 
 
 Lindt 
 
 do... 
 
 Cornalba . 
 Voelcker. 
 
 Balland. 
 
 Konig 
 
 Richmond. 
 Stutzer 
 
 Number of 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 (Average.. . 
 
 6-J Maximum 
 
 Minimum. 
 
 f Average. . . 
 Maximum 
 Minimum. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 [Average . . . 
 9-J Maximum. 
 
 (Minimum.. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 {Average . . 
 Maximum . 
 Minimum. 
 
 3<i. 
 
 {Average. . . 
 Maximum. 
 Minimum . 
 {Average 
 Maximum . . 
 Minimum. . . 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 (Average 
 
 5-j Maximum. . 
 
 [Minimum. .. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 [Average. . . 
 4{ Maximum. 
 
 [Minimum. . 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Water. 
 
 Per ct. 
 24.69 
 22.60 
 44.59 
 52.60 
 36.10 
 (37.80 
 131.60 
 27. 55 
 31.10 
 [30.39 
 (35. 92 
 (36. 96 
 132. 59 
 38.20 
 1 38. 28 
 (38. 23 
 50.40 
 (53.00 
 157. 80 
 
 (57.60 
 114.00 
 30.34 
 9.48 
 36.49 
 47.94 
 27.69 
 52.10 
 
 49.60 
 56.75 
 45.99 
 49.88 
 38.78 
 31.60 
 41.44 
 41.55 
 38.46 
 29. 23 
 [29. 56 
 /37. 90 
 (38.50 
 51.66 
 60.38 
 41.70 
 32. 57 
 33.62 
 42.85 
 30.10 
 41.88 
 42.60 
 33.20 
 32.80 
 (36. 10 
 141. 41 
 48. 09 
 '44.44 
 [46.80 
 47.55 
 55.34 
 41.25 
 37.77 
 47.54 
 30.49 
 33.53 
 35.18 
 33.00 
 37.44 
 24.17 
 47.30 
 (61.00 
 (16. 66 
 42.44 
 51.58 
 58.00 
 44.70 
 52.94 
 33.80 
 44.84 
 
 Pro- 
 
 teids, 
 
 amids. 
 
 etc. 
 
 Per ct. 
 37.08 
 39.50 
 21. 55 
 30.67 
 9.85 
 31.30 
 35.30 
 36.00 
 32.30 
 25.48 
 26.34 
 29.34 
 32.51 
 30.25 
 30.89 
 29. 12 
 20.45 
 21.50 
 25.00 
 
 39.30 
 08.10 
 67.32 
 59.88 
 56.08 
 66.80 
 43.76 
 25.20 
 
 34.00 
 21.34 
 13.41 
 23.70 
 
 9.34 
 35.20 
 27.56 
 
 8.76 
 31.86 
 28.71 
 27.43 
 25.90 
 24.29 
 11.85 
 24.40 
 
 3.83 
 32.19 
 33.99 
 26.73 
 27.57 
 24.05 
 20.00 
 28.00 
 29.58 
 27.54 
 25. 06 
 23.21 
 25.37 
 23.30 
 24.42 
 31.75 
 19.73 
 23.92 
 34.70 
 
 5.75 
 30.29 
 27.99 
 30.50 
 33.37 
 28.54 
 11.40 
 19.20 
 41.50 
 
 3.36 
 31.98 
 40.47 
 26.85 
 29.75 
 57.79 
 36.73 
 
 Per ct. 
 33.36 
 27.16 
 29.25 
 32. 95 
 24.44 
 25.70 
 26.50 
 31.00 
 30.90 
 34.75 
 25.99 
 24. 08 
 26.00 
 23. 82 
 23. 93 
 24.38 
 17.41 
 16.90 
 13.00 
 
 19.00 
 
 20.10 
 2.02 
 
 18.40 
 5.28 
 8.77 
 2.00 
 
 13.49 
 
 11.80 
 18.91 
 30.01 
 34.00 
 27.69 
 24.50 
 22.25 
 44.09 
 25.87 
 33.89 
 32.31 
 27.32 
 25.34 
 26.82 
 31.92 
 24.00 
 23.98 
 23.48 
 19.39 
 32.81 
 29.47 
 23.90 
 29.60 
 28.41 
 29.43 
 25.63 
 21.49 
 22.69 
 24.24 
 22.18 
 24.70 
 18.95 
 30.97 
 37.65 
 25.51 
 29.99 
 32.23 
 30.34 
 37.51 
 30.44 
 36.34 
 16.37 
 35.80 
 42.12 
 11. 30 
 19.94 
 
 7.20 
 11.80 
 
 7.90 
 15.48 
 
 Perct. 
 
 Milk 
 sugar. 
 lactic 
 acid, 
 etc. 
 
 6.80 
 
 7.59 
 5.17 
 4.53 
 3.81 
 3.70 
 2.76 
 4.80 
 
 5.77 
 
 1.27 
 
 2.50 
 
 .22 
 
 8.28 
 
 5.10 
 5.90 
 2.65 
 4.38 
 4.24 
 
 4.08 
 9.07 
 
 6.35 
 6.34 
 5.15 
 
 2.60 
 
 3. 83 
 3.79 
 2.92 
 
 . 31 
 
 9.85 
 4.29 
 7.09 
 2.13 
 2.58 
 
 Total 
 ash. 
 
 Per ct. 
 4.85 
 3.94 
 4.61 
 5.00 
 3.90 
 4.20 
 4.40 
 3.24 
 3.70 
 4.78 
 4.16 
 4.45 
 4.31 
 3.92 
 3.20 
 5.51 
 6.94 
 5.70 
 4.10 
 
 3.40 
 
 1.20 
 
 .32 
 
 6.47 
 
 .82 
 
 1.48 
 
 .44 
 
 .93 
 
 3.00 
 2.90 
 3.63 
 4.17 
 3 33 
 4.24 
 4.51 
 5.60 
 3.81 
 8.14 
 8.49 
 4.80 
 2.80 
 6.04 
 7.33 
 5.54 
 4.67 
 2.42 
 5.62 
 6.84 
 4.60 
 5.50 
 6.60 
 5.55 
 6.93 
 6.21 
 3.02 
 2.59 
 3.08 
 6 5.80 
 9.46 
 2.51 
 6.85 
 11.09 
 4.60 
 5.88 
 4.60 
 4.17 
 4.95 
 3.38 
 4.96 
 3.43 
 6.10 
 2.22 
 
 .60 
 1.42 
 
 .25 
 2.93 
 
 .50 
 2.95 
 
 a Green cheese. 
 
 b Sugar, ash, etc. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 59 
 
 Analyses of cheese — Continued. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Authority. 
 
 Number of 
 analyses. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Fat. 
 
 Pro- 
 teids, 
 amids, 
 
 etc. 
 
 Milk 
 sugar, 
 lactic 
 acid, 
 etc. 
 
 Total 
 ash. 
 
 Salt in 
 ash. 
 
 Gex 
 
 Balland 
 
 Boggild 
 
 Bell 
 
 2 
 
 Per ct. 
 (31. 50 
 (32. 10 
 49. 22 
 
 21.40 
 (33. lo 
 137. 40 
 34. 10 
 32. 52 
 
 Per ct. 
 28.85 
 32.20 
 2 96 
 28.35 
 25. 40 
 23. 50 
 
 28. 10 
 37. 92 
 
 29. 94 
 21.97 
 28. 02 
 33. 68 
 
 22. 70 
 25. 90 
 
 9.20 
 46. 64 
 19.86 
 
 32. 68 
 10.98 
 27. 88 
 26.10 
 26.70 
 29.70 
 34.07 
 
 33. 69 
 35. 29 
 29.00 
 37. 52 
 34. 08 
 36. 19 
 34. 67 
 39. 32 
 29.00 
 27.95 
 24.81 
 
 9.02 
 18.37 
 
 1.64 
 31.20 
 29.40 
 16.18 
 31.13 
 29. 04 
 28.29 
 28.19 
 33. 40 
 
 23. 10 
 26.59 
 28. 60 
 31.80 
 29.29 
 28.00 
 29.12 
 30.64 
 24.00 
 28.40 
 
 1.34 
 
 1.04 
 
 1.83 
 
 1.11 
 
 23.93 
 
 32.00 
 
 27. 15 
 
 24.74 
 
 37.48 
 
 15.88 
 
 55.79 
 
 63.82 
 
 50.16 
 
 14.10 
 
 25.50 
 
 31.24 
 
 1.31 
 
 1.45 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 29 96 
 29.86 
 41.53 
 
 31. 10 
 
 48.10 
 31.80 
 28. 30 
 21. 68 
 31.70 
 37. 96 
 27.96 
 31.75 
 24.50 
 33. 60 
 17.10 
 27.90 
 7.62 
 10. 63 
 4.43 
 34.34 
 27.70 
 25.80 
 23.14 
 22.78 
 25.67 
 33. 80 
 19.70 
 26. 75 
 25.94 
 26.94 
 25.16 
 28.51 
 20. 33 
 24.17 
 46.95 
 25.94 
 34 22 
 22. 05 
 24.40 
 27.01 
 37.43 
 18.01 
 19.25 
 19.64 
 33.03 
 37.80 
 29.54 
 26.18 
 31.30 
 28.70 
 30.84 
 28.90 
 32. 51 
 29.95 
 31.50 
 33.75 
 37. 01 
 27.72 
 22.43 
 19. 38 
 20.86 
 30. 62 
 24. 30 
 30.09 
 38.60 
 25. 10 
 6.25 
 8.73 
 4.94 
 28.10 
 28.00 
 24.25 
 78. 68 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 5.51 
 
 .34 
 
 Per ct. 
 4.18 
 5.50 
 
 Perct. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1. 
 
 .31 
 
 1.98 
 
 4. 37 
 7.44 
 1.22 
 15! 30 
 
 46.81 
 
 58.07 
 
 39. 04 
 
 1.35 
 
 .21 
 
 1.62 
 
 2.00 
 
 .91 
 
 "3." 64' 
 3.18 
 3.40 
 4.82 
 7.40 
 1.50 
 1.94 
 
 'T56' 
 
 «14. 80 
 
 "18.00 
 
 021. 40 
 
 7.71 
 
 2.85 
 
 7.71 
 
 2.01 
 3.20 
 .42 
 2.50 
 1.40 
 2.84 
 1.93 
 
 4.49 
 4.10 
 5.00 
 4.60 
 4. 32 
 5.84 
 4.25 
 
 4. 53 
 5.70 
 3.56 
 4.40 
 5.80 
 4.74 
 6.06 
 6.57 
 
 5. 14 
 4.58 
 5.30 
 4.60 
 4. 36 
 4.46 
 3.71 
 4.10 
 4.80 
 4.08 
 
 a6.77 
 
 a 10. 46 
 
 3.82 
 
 4. 03 
 3. 13 
 4.32 
 6.32 
 5.52 
 7.30 
 4.26 
 5.60 
 5.41 
 3.81 
 2.55 
 2.88 
 3.12 
 3.96 
 4.70 
 3.50 
 4.68 
 4.70 
 3.70 
 3.87 
 3.50 
 3.80 
 3.67 
 3.00 
 4.79 
 5.86 
 
 5. 05 
 5.25 
 5. 30 
 
 10.00 
 0. 14 
 3.95 
 9.40 
 
 12.70 
 4.58 
 4.50 
 8.38 
 2.61 
 4.80 
 6.00 
 6.42 
 9.46 
 
 17.84 
 
 
 
 Myth 
 
 
 
 Chattaway 
 
 Griffiths 
 
 Hassall 
 
 Jones 
 
 Voelcker 
 
 Balland 
 
 Llndet 
 
 Patrick (2) 
 
 Werenskiold 
 
 Bell 
 
 Chattaway 
 
 Duclaux 
 
 Hornig 
 
 von Klenze 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Maggiora 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (Average 
 
 13^ Maximum . . . 
 
 1 Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 34. 80 
 40.88 
 28. 10 
 20. 80 
 64.80 
 17.73 
 20.90 
 26. 53 
 15.53 
 31.85 
 (40.30 
 (33. 90 
 (42.80 
 (38. 69 
 
 26.81 
 41.50 
 (34. 41 
 h2. 43 
 (37. 63 
 37. 30 
 47.10 
 29.82 
 43.56 
 21.90 
 54.79 
 60.17 
 50.46 
 38.80 
 
 42.58 
 (46. 03 
 •M6.52 
 (46. 59 
 29.99 
 33. 10 
 27.50 
 40.01 
 (28. 20 
 135.70 
 36.00 
 
 (34. 57 
 '(35. 74 
 140.00 
 (32. 05 
 55.79 
 (50. 19 
 
 (.52. 75 
 37.50 
 28.39 
 36. 89 
 29.07 
 32.48 
 26. 02 
 31.55 
 36.03 
 23. 97 
 (50. 50 
 (39. 10 
 35.25 
 f 8.59 
 \10. 14 
 
 1.34 
 2.04 
 
 .85 
 
 
 1 
 
 4.90 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 f; out-ni Ilk — Norwegian 
 
 (Average 
 
 8 Maximum . . . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 2.11 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 2.21 
 
 
 1 
 
 2.64 
 
 
 1 
 
 2. CO 
 
 
 3 
 
 1.33 
 .99 
 
 
 (Average 
 
 7^Maximum . . . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 .92 
 
 
 Soxhlet 
 
 
 
 Arnold 
 
 Cribb 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 (Average 
 
 IK Maximum . . . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 2.80 
 
 
 Patrick (2) . 
 Vieth . . 
 
 ] 
 
 3.68 
 
 
 Haecker 
 
 36 
 
 
 
 (Average 
 
 9- Maximum . . . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Benecke 
 
 Chattaway 
 
 Duclaux 
 
 2.10 
 
 
 2 ■ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 .57 
 
 
 
 
 .40 
 
 
 Lindt 
 
 Payen 
 
 Vieth 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 4.16 
 
 
 Balland 
 
 Hoffmann 
 
 1 
 
 '4.12 
 4.08 
 
 Ilha 
 
 1 
 
 1.06 
 
 
 ] 
 
 1.50 
 
 
 
 (Average 
 
 14-1 Maximum . . . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 (Average 
 
 10-jMaximum .. . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 9 
 
 16 Average 
 
 2 
 
 5.04 
 8.12 
 
 
 
 .78 
 3.07 
 7.36 
 
 
 
 1.10 
 
 
 Zega 
 
 Leutner. 
 
 3.95 
 
 Krutt 
 
 8.01 
 
 
 69. '4 .»i 
 
 
 a Abnormally high ash content was due to a gypsum preparation with which the cheese was 
 coated. 
 b Green cheese. 
 c Caraway seed. 
 
60 
 
 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 Analyses of cheese — Continued. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Authority. 
 
 Number of 
 analyses. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Fat. 
 
 Pro- 
 
 teids, 
 
 amids, 
 
 etc. 
 
 Milk 
 
 sugar, 
 
 lactic 
 
 acid, 
 
 etc. 
 
 Total 
 ash. 
 
 Salt in 
 ash. 
 
 
 Balland 
 
 Griffiths 
 
 Voelcker 
 
 1 
 
 Per ct. 
 34. 50 
 34.77 
 [35. 21 
 \32.89 
 46. 90 
 
 48. CO 
 
 23. 26 
 42.12 
 33. SO 
 
 5.3. 74 
 40. 30 
 40.07 
 (45. 88 
 [43.38 
 43.20 
 
 145. 40 
 (37. 50 
 
 2.3. 57 
 26. 49 
 18.58 
 
 24. 21 
 29. 43 
 38. 01 
 24 37 
 
 150.80 
 (54.80 
 37.90 
 51.72 
 /56.08 
 (57.83 
 J34.47 
 (36.58 
 37.45 
 57.25 
 (48.51 
 -47.12 
 140.54 
 [43.87 
 •M5.39 
 (42.44 
 28.40 
 44.54 
 52.49 
 23.01 
 32.50 
 /30.09 
 132.56 
 34.00 
 .32.16 
 36.11 
 30.20 
 35.39 
 f27.56 
 130.31 
 34.57 
 2il.su 
 32.90 
 27.47 
 54.60 
 f 3.59 
 ( 5.20 
 24.07 
 30.95 
 11.62 
 44.57 
 46.40 
 51.00 
 
 26.02 
 27.70 
 147.51' 
 
 148.02 
 38. 10 
 46.46 
 
 Per ct. 
 25.20 
 28.00 
 
 27. 28 
 29.28 
 11.00 
 29. 82 
 34*98 
 21.29 
 29.40 
 21.95 
 15. 00 
 
 5. 55 
 33. 50 
 
 28. 73 
 45. 30 
 49. 50 
 23. 97 
 
 9.70 
 25.9(1 
 29.83 
 24.40 
 Hi. 26 
 £0.98 
 9.63 
 20. 80 
 4.08 
 10.54 
 .07 
 25.15 
 20.59 
 41.30 
 2.3.99 
 23.34 
 21.00 
 41.91 
 40.7.1 
 34.60 
 22.30 
 6.13 
 7.36 
 16.87 
 15.89 
 9.97 
 3.36 
 48.16 
 3.37 
 7.70 
 12.49 
 17.10 
 26.04 
 21.75 
 23.00 
 19.13 
 23.42 
 12.58 
 19.72 
 15.95 
 21.08 
 24.05 
 30.51 
 31.30 
 29.96 
 35.00 
 54.56 
 46.46 
 38.12 
 45.20 
 33.26 
 21.80 
 25.00 
 23.10 
 
 50.80 
 35. 10 
 25.93 
 24.00 
 24.50 
 26.31 
 
 Perct. 
 28.70 
 27.86 
 27.93 
 29.06 
 35. 90 
 28.53 
 35. 05 
 23.58 
 23.00 
 31.76 
 25. 90 
 37. 33 
 20.20 
 23.31 
 8.14 
 7.62 
 20.10 
 25. 30 
 16.86 
 18.17 
 15. 50 
 8.88 
 10.78 
 6.79 
 9.06 
 7. 66 
 9.19 
 6. 34 
 17.60 
 14.43 
 23.10 
 20.73 
 16.67 
 17.00 
 13.03 
 14.18 
 24.04 
 15.03 
 32.72 
 31.63 
 31.29 
 29.93 
 3.3. 12 
 42.12 
 13.98 
 41.04 
 38.02 
 55.85 
 43.60 
 38.42 
 42.27 
 35.00 
 43.54 
 48.93 
 38.33 
 35. 55 
 44.08 
 34.25 
 35.15 
 33.51 
 35.59 
 30.74 
 7.30 
 36.60 
 43.28 
 29.35 
 34.45 
 27.00 
 30.36 
 20.32 
 17.80 
 
 20.64 
 31.16 
 22.56 
 24.29 
 24.80 
 23.66 
 
 Per ct. 
 6. 15 
 5.21 
 5.54 
 4.42 
 1.00 
 
 .38 
 8.05 
 
 8.84 
 
 6. £8 
 9. 75 
 
 44. 84 
 
 5.3. 03 
 Ml). 75 
 41.01 
 53. 24 
 01.38 
 46. 00 
 5.12 
 5.98 
 
 1.42 
 1.32 
 
 6.96 
 
 9.02 
 
 2.94 
 8.59 
 10.36 
 7.90 
 6.47 
 6.39 
 9.85 
 5.16 
 .16 
 
 6.69 
 
 2.49 
 2.75 
 2.16 
 
 6.68 
 2.04 
 
 Per ct. 
 5.45 
 
 4.16 
 4.04 
 4.35 
 5. 20 
 
 5. 98 
 
 6. 69 
 4.82 
 5. HI 
 4.44 
 4.40 
 
 3. 3S 
 4..-II 
 5. 93 
 
 .68 
 
 . 50 
 
 3. 89 
 
 4. 30 
 4 96 
 4.75 
 
 5. 00 
 4. 76 
 
 6. 09 
 
 3. 28 
 
 4. 92 
 
 li'.'.S 
 
 5. Ill) 
 1.33 
 4.L'() 
 3.40 
 3.56 
 2.49 
 2.85 
 3.63 
 
 .51 
 3.90 
 2.48 
 3.79 
 3.41 
 3.17 
 4.84 
 5.13 
 2.22 
 4'30 
 10.89 
 1.79 
 8.14 
 6.20 
 5.45 
 5.07 
 5.20 
 6.29 
 7.18 
 5.20 
 4.82 
 5.72 
 7.09 
 6.23 
 6.24 
 6.84 
 5.31 
 .60 
 5.25 
 5.00 
 5.69 
 6.18 
 5.10 
 3.97 
 1.60 
 4.00 
 
 2.54 
 4.00 
 4.00 
 3.69 
 5.30 
 3.67 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1.03 
 
 
 1 
 
 1.21 
 1.40 
 
 Limburg — American. . . 
 
 Arnold 
 
 4-1 Maximum .. . 
 
 (.Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 
 Johnson 
 
 Balland 
 
 Lindet 
 
 von Klenze 
 
 3 51 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2.90 
 
 
 3 30 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fascetti 
 
 Balland 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Balland 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Dahl 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 1. 90 
 
 
 [Average 
 
 6- Maximum . . . 
 
 [Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 ""3." 70 
 
 
 Voelcker 
 
 Werenskiold 
 
 Balland 
 
 Blytb 
 
 
 
 (■Average 
 
 -2 Maximum . . . 
 
 (.Minimum 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Neufchatel— Ame rican . 
 
 von Klenze 
 
 Martin 
 
 I'm Veil 
 
 Arnold 
 
 Dahl 
 
 Voelcker 
 
 Balland 
 
 1.44 
 1.90 
 
 1.42 
 
 Olivet 
 
 
 
 
 
 Soxhlet 
 
 
 Parmesan 
 
 
 
 
 Chattaway 
 
 Duclaux 
 
 Lindet 
 
 1.76 
 1.65 
 1.70 
 
 
 Manet ti 
 
 Patrick (2) 
 
 [Average 
 
 8< Maximum .. . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Soxhlet 
 
 
 
 Sartori. .. ^«... 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Clark 
 
 [Average 
 
 4 Maximum .. . 
 | Minimum. . . . 
 
 2.. 
 
 4.95 
 5 51 
 
 
 4.34 
 10 
 
 
 
 Pont-1'Eveque 
 
 Johnson 
 
 [Average 
 
 4< Maximum .. . 
 
 (Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 2.24 
 2.61 
 1.86 
 
 
 Balland 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1.90 
 
 Pont-1'Eveque— 
 
 American 
 
 
 1. . . 
 
 
 Port du Salut 
 
 Balland 
 
 Duclaux 
 
 Lindet 
 
 1... 
 
 
 
 
 
 1.90 
 
 
 1 
 
 1.56 
 2.20 
 
 | 
 
 Rollet 
 
 1 
 
 1.31 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 61 
 
 Analyses of cheese— ( !i ml inued. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Potted— 
 
 American C 1 u 1 
 House 
 
 Imperial 
 
 Royal Paragon... 
 Rabacal 
 
 Rebbiola 
 
 Reblochon 
 
 Reindeer milk 
 
 Romadour 
 
 Roquefort. 
 
 Ricotta 
 
 Saloio 
 
 Sap Sago 
 
 Savoy 
 
 Septmoncel 
 
 Serra da Estrella 
 
 Servian 
 Spalen. 
 Stilton. 
 
 Swiss — American. 
 
 Authority. 
 
 Number of 
 analyses. 
 
 Weems. . . . 
 Weems. . . . 
 Weems. . - . 
 
 1 lolVmann . 
 
 Cornalba . 
 Lindei 
 
 Werenskiold. 
 
 Ilornig 
 
 von Klen/.e. . 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Patrick (2).. 
 Vieth 
 
 Arnold 3. 
 
 Balland I. 
 
 Bell 1. 
 
 Chattaway l. 
 
 Hornig... l. 
 
 Johnson l . 
 
 von Klenze. . . - . l. 
 
 Lindet I. 
 
 Muter I. 
 
 Patrick (2) 1 . 
 
 Payen 2. 
 
 Sieber. . 
 Barton. 
 
 Sartori 3 6. 
 
 Hoffmann 1.. 
 
 Pereira 2.. 
 
 Arnold ! 1.. 
 
 Benecke 1.. 
 
 VOn Klen/.e 1. . 
 
 Balland 2.. 
 
 Balland 1 . . 
 
 Biittner. . . 
 Hoftmann. 
 
 Pereira 
 
 Zega.... 
 Benecke 
 
 f Average . . 
 
 M Maximum 
 
 Minimum. 
 
 I Average 
 
 'Maximum - . 
 Minimum. . . 
 
 Average. . . . 
 Maximum . . 
 Minimum. . . 
 
 Swiss Russian. 
 
 Swiss Swedish. . . . 
 Tessel 
 
 a From cow 
 
 Chattaway ' 3. 
 
 Griffiths 
 
 Ilassall 
 
 Muter 
 
 Patrick (2) .. 
 
 Voelcker 
 
 Arnold 
 
 Haecker 
 
 Johnson 
 
 Kalantarow. . . 
 
 Dahl 
 
 Mayer, 
 s milk. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Average 
 
 Maximum . . 
 Minimum. . . 
 
 Per cl. 
 38.98 
 
 30. 113 
 
 32.85 
 16.45 
 [46.56 
 [45.36 
 
 53. '-'0 
 
 27. 70 
 [56.60 
 [51.21 
 
 43.21 
 60. 40 
 55. Hi 
 44. 55 
 [28. 35 
 
 28. 87 
 I'-"-'. 47 
 
 28.90 
 
 31'. 20 
 
 29.60 
 36.93 
 39.28 
 
 :;s. 'M 
 36.90 
 21. 56 
 
 34. 37 
 [26.53 
 [34.55 
 [23.54 
 [36.93 
 
 68. 47 
 [43. SO 
 
 42. 4X 
 143.29 
 
 76. 2:. 
 1 5 4. 37 
 I4. r ,. Si 
 
 13. 30 
 
 47. 02 
 
 38. 17 
 [52. 40 
 149.70 
 
 28. 20 
 
 4::. 58 
 47 OS 
 3.',. 22 
 31.87 
 30. 34 
 .'.11.(17 
 24. 38 
 53. oo 
 68. st 
 
 42. 10 
 
 28. 1 4 
 1 10. 40 
 
 21.20 
 1 25. 00 
 31 22 
 31.37 
 28.60 
 
 32. 07 
 |32. IS 
 |20.27 
 
 38. 51 
 (41. 43 
 { 35. 91 
 [38.40 
 
 33. 79 
 32. 74 
 
 35. 44 
 29 so 
 
 29. 34 
 38. 04 
 30. 02 
 54.40 
 
 Fa I . 
 
 Pro- 
 teids, 
 amide, 
 
 etc. 
 
 J'i r Ct. 
 34.01 
 33.10 
 31.52 
 
 37. 36 
 
 30. 5G 
 20.50 
 
 43. 1 1 
 
 17. 05 
 
 0. 10 
 
 L0.56 
 
 11.00 
 14.76 
 
 10. 10 
 
 20. OS 
 33.70 
 3 1.02 
 
 38. 30 
 3438 
 30.30 
 
 31.23 
 20. 53 
 34. 14 
 
 29. . r ,() 
 3.",. 110 
 34. 54 
 32.31 
 30.14 
 40. 13 
 31.23 
 
 5. 22 
 
 30. 46 
 31.04 
 31.00 
 
 1.78 
 25. si 
 27. so 
 15.52 
 
 6.60 
 12.27 
 
 .-,.0(1 
 
 0. 45 
 31.2.", 
 27. 69 
 
 34. r,o 
 
 10. 70 
 40. 05 
 27.03 
 37.03 
 10 3(1 
 19. 30 
 
 32. 20 
 7. 77 
 
 33.69 
 42. 20 
 4. r ,. SO 
 34. 00 
 37. 24 
 30. 58 
 30 70 
 30 03 
 37. 30 
 13, 98 
 24. 94 
 29.93 
 33.21 
 32 40 
 
 33. 25 
 32. 20 
 37.20 
 28. 97 
 30. 44 
 29. 13 
 32. 05 
 18.30 
 
 Pcrcl. 
 21.13 
 20. ss 
 27.74 
 35. 00 
 19.99 
 
 20.21 
 
 19.30 
 
 23. 70 
 18. 70 
 33.00 
 30.18 
 19.00 
 20.0.', 
 32. 72 
 32. St 
 28. 82 
 34. 99 
 2:,. 10 
 27. 10 
 
 28. 30 
 25. 79 
 22 02 
 2l! 92 
 
 20. 50 
 
 32. 24 
 24.40 
 
 31.00 
 
 26.52 
 
 27. 00 
 
 2. - ,. 79 
 
 IS. 72 
 
 8.66 
 
 13.01 
 12.04 
 11.37 
 13.03 
 
 15. 10 
 
 57. 59 
 37. 00 
 45. 73 
 28.84 
 27. 32 
 32. 00 
 22. 02 
 24.03 
 20. 40 
 
 22. IS 
 
 23. 48 
 
 32. 10 
 17 S3 
 21.32 
 31'. 37 
 14.00 
 
 30.78 
 
 21.10 
 20.3,0 
 
 28 lo 
 
 24. 28 
 27. 00 
 3.-,. 60 
 
 23. 19 
 
 24. 31 
 
 33. 55 
 32. 02 
 
 22. 13 
 24.82 
 22.88 
 20. 12 
 24.85 
 28.81 
 20.57 
 
 23. 20 
 23.21 
 
 24. 70 
 20. 10 
 
 Perct. 
 
 Milk 
 sugar, 
 
 lactic 
 
 acid, 
 etc. 
 
 2. 07 
 
 .81 
 
 .02 
 
 3. 00 
 1.32 
 
 1.77 
 
 3.97 
 10. 30 
 11.49 
 10. 75 
 5.28 
 2.90 
 .",. 07 
 
 9. 38 
 12. 53 
 3.99 
 
 2. 09 
 0. 13 
 1.55 
 2 21 
 
 3. 03 
 6.78 
 
 .78 
 
 2.63 
 
 5.12 
 
 85 
 
 2 55 
 
 Total 
 ash. 
 
 3.40 
 
 i.'os" 
 
 222' 
 
 2. 90 
 3.32 
 3. 24 
 1.77 
 4.43 
 C.90 
 .57 
 0. 11 
 4.36 
 4.59 
 1.40 
 
 Per a. 
 1.49 
 4.22 
 4. 13 
 
 S. 20 
 7.00 
 3. 73 
 
 3. 70 
 
 2. 43 
 0.7s 
 0.01 
 0. 10 
 
 5.eo 
 5.47 
 6.57 
 
 s. 82 
 s. 00 
 8. 24 
 4.(4 
 
 4. SS 
 0.70 
 4.7S 
 0. so 
 5.00 
 7. 00 
 
 10.24 
 0. 10 
 4. 45 
 5.07 
 6.27 
 4.78 
 3.62 
 .72 
 .78 
 1.02 
 5.32 
 3.20 
 5.26 
 13. 57 
 10. 10 
 3.83 
 3.4S 
 4.00 
 4. 50 
 4.00 
 4.35 
 3.51 
 
 3. 00 
 5.79 
 s. 90 
 
 3. 23 
 3.30 
 
 4. SI 
 2.40 
 7. 38 
 2. 1,0 
 2.90 
 4.10 
 3.80 
 4.39 
 4. 02 
 3.24 
 3. 93 
 2.20 
 4.70 
 3.34 
 3.06 
 3.48 
 5.07 
 5.78 
 7.44 
 4.36 
 4.78 
 4.39 
 2.39 
 5.80 
 
 Salt in 
 ash. 
 
 Prr ct. 
 
 *> From sheep's milk. 
 
 c G reen cheese. 
 
62 
 
 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 Analyses of cheese— Continued. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Thenay 
 
 Topfen 
 
 Trappist. . 
 
 Troyes 
 
 Vacherin. . 
 
 Vendome. . 
 
 Viterbo 
 
 Vorarlberg 
 
 Warwickshire 
 
 Wensleydale.. 
 Wiltshire 
 
 Authority. 
 
 Number of 
 analyses. 
 
 Blin 
 
 Kbnig 
 
 Rubner.. . 
 Adametz. . 
 
 Lindet 
 
 Benecke.. . 
 Lindt 
 
 Fallot . 
 
 Sartori. 
 
 Eugling. 
 
 von Klenze . 
 
 Ziger. 
 
 Eugling. 
 von Klenze. 
 
 (Average 
 
 6-^ Maximum.. . 
 
 | Minimum 
 
 1 
 
 {Average 
 Maximum . . . 
 Minimum 32.92 
 
 f56. 61 
 
 Water. Fat. 
 
 Perct. 
 30.14 
 72.44 
 60.27 
 45.90 
 58.70 
 54.02 
 45.87 
 48.69 
 56.33 
 29.63 
 28.50 
 42.99 
 55. 85 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 15.00 
 
 6.22 
 
 7.33 
 
 26.10 
 
 18.60 
 
 23.74 
 
 27.21 
 
 20.90 
 
 30.61 
 
 10.80 
 
 30.93 
 
 17.02 
 
 31.99 
 
 2.82 
 
 4.48 
 
 4.56 
 
 29.08 
 
 30.04 
 
 30.89 
 
 33.30 
 
 27.82 
 
 28.00 
 
 28.71 
 
 19.26 
 
 25.55 
 
 3.15 
 
 4.33 
 
 5.22 
 
 3.48 
 
 Pro- ' Milk 
 teids, ! gi Total 
 
 a ™ ds ' add? ash 
 etc. 
 
 Per ct. 
 18.12 
 16.91 
 24.84 
 23.30 
 14.60 
 18.98 
 25.29 
 27.97 
 45.52 
 17.74 
 34.19 
 31.19 
 40.11 
 25.65 
 36.42 
 42. 37 
 27.43 
 29.70 
 28.19 
 27.20 
 26.52 
 31.12 
 29.00 
 34.22 
 26.81 
 22.13 
 14.99 
 18.72 
 64.62 
 
 3.07 
 3.54 
 
 3.79 
 7.21 
 1.81 
 
 7.16 
 1.95 
 2.84 
 
 3.88 
 
 3.60 
 2.28 
 2.24 
 3.97 
 3.93 
 3.97 
 
 Per ct. 
 6.10 
 1.36 
 4.02 
 4.00 
 4.80 
 3.08 
 1.63 
 4.43 
 5.58 
 3.10 
 6.38 
 4.94 
 6.89 
 3.79 
 2.49 
 2.49 
 4.36 
 5.60 
 4.55 
 3.70 
 4.55 
 4.41 
 4.25 
 5.02 
 5.33 
 2.31 
 2.02 
 3.62 
 .90 
 
 Salt in 
 ash. 
 
 Per ct. 
 
 4.80 
 
 3.70 
 1.77 
 
 '2.79 
 3.68 
 2.08 
 5.03 
 
 2.78 
 1.12 
 
 1.03 
 
 .60 
 
 1.41 
 
SOURCES OF ANALYTICAL DATA." 
 
 1. Adametz, L. 
 
 Ueber die herstcllung unci zusammensetzung dee bosnischeri trappistenkases. 
 
 Milch-ztg., jahrg. 21, no. 19, p. 310-313. Bremen, May 7, 1892. 
 
 2. Arnold, L. B. 
 
 Cheese and cheese making. Am. dairymen's assn., 14th ann. rept., for the 
 year ending Jan. 15, 1879. Utica, N. Y., 1879. See p. 145. 
 
 Transl. abst. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 8, no. 32, p. 468-470, Aug. 6; no. 33, p. 484, 
 Aug. 13; no. 34, p. 500-502, Aug. 20. Bremen, 1879. See p. 502. 
 
 3. Balland, A. 
 
 Les aliments. Paris, 1907. See v. 2, p. 237-248. 
 
 4. Bell, James. 
 
 The analysis and adulteration of foods. 2 parts, illus. 20cm. Lond., 1881. 
 See also citations 15, 49, 53, 54. 
 
 5. Benecke, F., and Schulze, E. 
 
 Untersuchungen fiber den Emmenthaler kiise und liber einige andere schwei- 
 zerischc kascsortcn. Landw. jahrb., bd. 16, p. 317-400. Berl.,1887. See 
 p. 338, 373. 
 
 6. Blades, Charles M. 
 
 Cheshire cheese. Analyst, v. 19, p. 131-133. Lond., June, 1894. 
 
 7. Blin, Henri. 
 
 L'industrie fromagere en Loir-et-Cher. Le homage de Thenay. Jrn. d'agr. 
 prat., ann. 61, t. 2, no. 49, p. 876-879. Paris, Dec: 9, 1897. 
 
 8. Blyth, Alexander Wynter, and Blyth, Meredith "Wynter. 
 
 Foods; their composition and analysis. 5th ed. Lond., 1903. See p. 306. 
 
 9. BOGGILD, B. 
 
 Eine analyse der Gislcv-kiise. Ugeskrift for landmand, II, no. 20, 1890. 
 Abst. Biedermanns cent. f. agr.-chem., jahrg. 20, p. 287. Leipz., 1891. 
 
 10. Brunnich, J. C. 
 
 Analyses of cheese and butter manufactured at the Queensland agricultural 
 college, Gatton. Queensland agr. jrn., v. 9, no. 4, p. 424-428. Brisbane, 
 Oct., 1901. 
 
 11. [BiJTTNER, C] 
 
 See citation 58. 
 
 12. [Caldwell. 
 
 Alp. monatsbl., p. 158. 1877.] See citation 39, p. 325. 
 
 13. Chattaway, Wm.; Pearmain, T. H; and Moor, C. G. 
 
 On the composition of cheese. Analyst, v. 19, p. 145-147. Lond., July, 
 1894. 
 
 14. The composition of some English cheeses. Analyst, v. 20, no. 231, p. 132-134. 
 
 Lond., June, 1895. 
 
 "References inclosed in brackets have not been consulted in the original. 
 
 63 
 
64 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 15. Clark, R. D. 
 
 Report on cheese. N. Y. state dairy commr., 3rd ann. rept. for 1886. 
 Albany, 1887. See p. 50, 62. 
 
 16. Composition of Canadian cheese. Ibid. , 5th ann. rept . f< a the year 1888. Albany, 
 
 1889. See p. 422. 
 
 17. Ibid., 7th aim. rept, for the year 1890. Albany, 1891. See p. 300. 
 
 18. Cooke, W. W., and Hills, J. L. 
 
 Making cheese from different qualities if milk. Vermont agr. exp. sta., 
 5th ann. rept. [for] 1891. Burlington, JS92. See p. 90. 
 
 19. CoBNALBA, G. 
 
 I formaggini di lecco. L' indus. latt. e zootec, anno 5, no. 5, p. 35. Reggio- 
 Emilia, March 1, 1907. 
 
 20. I t'ormaggi molli di lusso. II coltivatore, ann. 53, no. 49, p. 713-717. Casale 
 
 Monferrato, Dee. 8, 1907. 
 
 21. Cribb, Cecil H. 
 
 Note on Dutch cheese. Analyst, v. 31, no. 361, p. 105-111. Lond., Apr., 
 1906. 
 
 22. 1>AHL. 
 
 Ueber Norwegens natur, rindviehlndtung und molkereiwirthschaft. Mileh- 
 ztg., jahrg. 1, no. 16, p. 185-191, May 15; no. 18, p. 205-212, June 15. Danzig, 
 1872. See p. 210. 
 
 23. Drew, Charles W. 
 
 Report upon cheese. Minn, state dairy and food comm., 3rd biennial rept. 
 Minneapolis, 1890. See p. 235. 
 
 24. Duclaux, Pierre Emile. 
 
 Lelait. Ed. 2. Paris, 1894. See p. 259-311. 
 
 25. Eugling, W., and Klenze, von. 
 
 Versuche auf dem gebiete der alpenwirthschaft. Mihh-ztg., jahrg. 7, no. 
 
 11, p. 141-143, Mar. 13; no. 12, p. 157-160, Mar. 20, 1878; jahrg. 9, no. 40, 
 
 p. 597-59D, Oct. 6, 1880. Bremen, 1878-80. 
 [Bericht landw. versuchsstat., Tisigro, 1875-76. Bregenz, 1887. p. 12.] See 
 
 citation 38, p. 331. 
 
 26. [Fallot. 
 
 Prem. cong. intern, hyg. aliment,, 4. sec., Paris, 1905. Analyses made at 
 Lab., Loir-et-Cher, Blois, France.] 
 
 27. Fascetti, G. 
 
 Preparazione e composizione del formaggio lombardo alia crema denominato 
 "Mascarpone." Ann. d. r. staz. sper. d. caseif. Lodi, ann. 1902. Lodi, 
 1903. See p. 71. 
 
 28. [Fleischmann, W. 
 
 Bericht d. milchw. versuchsstat. Radon fur 1880, p. 34; fur 1884, p. 30.] See 
 citation 39, p. 334. 
 
 29. Goesmann, C. A. 
 
 Mass. state agr. exp. sta. Amherst, 6th ann. rept., 1888. Boston, 1889. See 
 p. 239. 
 
 30. Griffiths, A. B. 
 
 Analyses de cpielques fromages d'Angleterre. Bull, de la Soc. chim. de Paris, 
 ser. 3, t. 7, p. 282-283. Paris, 1892. 
 
 31. Haecker, T. L. 
 
 Manufacture of sweet curd cheese. Minn. agr. exp. sta., Bull. no. 35, p. 
 104-128. St. Anthony Park, Oct., 1894. See p. 115, 122, 127. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 65 
 
 32. Hassall, Arthub Hill. 
 
 Food: iis adulterations and the methods for their detection. Loud., 1876. 
 See p. 450. 
 
 33. Hoffmann, M. 
 
 Die milchwirtschaftlichen verhaltoisse Portugals. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 27, 
 no. 13, p. 197-199. Bremen, Mar. 26, L898. 
 
 34. [Hornig. 
 
 Beit.riige zur geschichte, technik und statistik der kaserei. Wien, L869, 
 p. 40.] See citation 39, pp. 327, 329, 330, 335, 341. 
 
 35. Johnson, S. W. 
 
 Analyses of some American cheese. Conn. agr. exp. sta., aim. rept., L892. 
 New Haven, 1893. Seep. 156. 
 
 36. [Jones.] 
 
 Cited from White, Henry. Report on the exhibition of cheese at Chester in 
 July, 1858. Jrn. roy. agr. soc, v. 19, p. 420. Lond., L858. 
 
 37. [Kalantarow, A. von. 
 
 • Ueber die chemsche znsammensetzung einiger russischer kaee. Jrn. russ. 
 phys.-chem. gesell., v. 1, p. 155. 1882.] Cited from Bericht d. deut. 
 chem. gesell., jahrg. 15, Jan.-June, p. 1220. Berl., 1882. 
 
 38. Ki.enze, H. L. VON. 
 
 Versuche fiber die verdaulichkeit verschiedener kasesorten. Milch-ztg., 
 jahrg. 14, no. 24, p. 369-373. Bremen, June 10, L885. 
 
 39. Koenig, Franz Joseph. 
 
 Chemie der menschlichen nahrungs- und genussmittel. 4. anfl. Berl., 1903. 
 See bd. 1, 321, 335. 
 
 40. Kruger, R. 
 
 Beitrage zur herstellnng kamambertartiger weichkase. Molk.-ztg., jahrg. 6, 
 no. 33, p. 402. Hildesheim, Aug. 13, 1892. [In this paper Kruger refers 
 to previous papers of his in the same periodical.] 
 
 41. Leutner, W. 
 
 Krutt, ein von den Kirgisen bereiteter kase. Pharm. ztschr. f. Russland, 
 jahrg. 24, no. 1, pp. 8-9. St. Petersb., Jan. 6, 1885. Cited also in Chem.- 
 ztg., jahrg. 9, no. 14, p. 254. Cothen, Feb. 15, 1885. 
 
 42. Lindet, Ammann, and Brugiere. 
 
 Sur la composition des principaux fromages consommes en France. Rev. 
 gen. d. lait, ami. 5, no. 18, pp. 416^18. Lierre, June 30, 1906. 
 
 43. [Lindt, O., and Muller, C. 
 
 Analysen verschiedener schweizerischer kasesorten. General-bericht fiber 
 die erste schweizerische milchproduktenausstellung in Bern, 1. bis 11. 
 Sept. 1867, von R. Sehatzman.] 
 
 Abst. Jahresb. ii. d. fortschr. anf d. gesammtg. d. akr.-chem., jahrg. 10, pp. 
 354-155. Berl., 1868. See 'also citation 39, pp. 324, 327, 331, 333. 
 
 44. Lloyd, F. J. 
 
 Observations on cheddar cheese-making. Report, 1893. Jrn. of the Bath 
 and west and southern counties SOC, ser. 4, v. 4, 1893-4, pp. 131-175. 
 Lond., 1894. Seep. 161. 
 
 45. Macoir, Louis. 
 
 L'industrie fromagere en Franche-Comte'. Bull, d'agr., t. 20, pp. 376—141. 
 Bruxelles, 1904. See p. 390. 
 
 46. Maogiora, Aunaluu. 
 
 Ueber die zusarmnensetzung des fiberreifen kases. Arch. f. hyg., bd. 14, 
 no. 2, pp. 216-224. Miinchen u. Leipz., L892. See p. 220. 
 
66 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 47. [Maior, G. 
 
 Die tzigaja-race, ihre eigenschaften und ihre wirtschaftliche nutzbarkeit. 
 Inaug.-diss. Halle, 1887.] Cited from Thiele, Paul. Einigesiiber schaf- 
 kasefabrikation in Siebenbiirgen. Milch. -ztg., jahrg. 26, no. 46, pp. 727- 
 729. Bremen, Nov. 3, 1897. 
 
 48. Manetti, L., and Musso, Giovanni. 
 
 Sulla composizione dei caei di grana. Staz. sper. agr. ital., v. 5, t'asc. 3, pp. 
 174-201. Torino, 1876. See p. 187. 
 
 49. Ueber die zusammensetzung und die reife des parmesankases. Die landw. 
 
 versuchs-stat., bd. 21, pp. 211-229. Berk, 1878. See p. 215. 
 
 50. [Martin, Ed. W., and Moore, R. W.] 
 
 See citation 14, p. 45. 
 
 51. Mayer, Adolf. 
 
 Analysen von hollandischen kasesorten. Milch-ztg., jahrg. l(i, no. 5, p. 87. 
 Bremen, Feb. 2, 1887. 
 
 52. Melikopf, P. G., and Rosenblatt, M. 
 
 Le brynsa, fromage russe de lait de brebis. Jrn. d'agr. prat., ann. 71, 
 n. s. t. 14, no. 52, p. 814-815. Paris, Dec. 26, 1907. 
 
 53. Musso, Giovanni, and Menozzi, A. 
 
 Sulla composizione degli stracehini. Staz. sper. agr. ital., 1877, v. 6, fasc. 4, 
 p. 201-206. Torino, 1878. 
 
 54. [Muter, J.] 
 
 Sec citation 14, p. 44, 50, 52. 
 
 55. Patrick, G. E. 
 
 (1) Changes during cheese ripening. Iowa agr. exp. sta., Bull. 24, p. 970. 
 
 Ames, 1894. 
 
 (2) Unpublished data. Analyses made in U. S. Department of Agriculture, 
 
 1901. Samples collected by H. E. Alvord in Europe. 
 
 56. Payen, A. 
 
 Composition de plusieurs substances alimentaires. Jrn. de pharm. et de 
 'chim., ser. 3, t. 16, p. 279. Paris, 1849. 
 
 57. Precis theorique et pratique des substances alimentaires. Ed. 4. Paris, 1865. 
 
 See p. 190-213. 
 
 58. Pereira, A. Cardoso, and Mastbaum, Hugo. 
 
 Techniscb.es und analytisches iiber die kaseindustrie in Portugal. Chem.- 
 ztg., jahrg. 28, no. 84, p. 998-1000. Cbthen, Oct. 19, 1904. 
 
 59. Richmond, Henry Droop. 
 
 Dairy chemistry; a practical handbook for dairy chemists and others having 
 control of dairies. Lond., 1899. See p. 303. 
 
 60. [Rollet.] 
 
 See citation 45, p. 390, 413. 
 
 61. Rubner, M. 
 
 Analyse des sog. topfens. Ztschr. f. biol., bd. 15, p. 496. Munehen, 1879. 
 
 62. Sartori, Giuseppe. 
 
 Sulla composizione della ricotta pecorina. Staz. sper. agr. ital., v. 18, fasc. 4, 
 aprile, p. 434-436. Asti, May 6, 1890. 
 
 63. Analisi del caciocavallo. Nota preliminare. Ibid., v. 22, fasc. 4, aprile, 
 
 p. 337-340. Asti, April, 1892. 
 
 64. Die chemie des schafkases. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 19, no. 51, p. 1001-1004. 
 
 Bremen, Dec. 17, 1890. 
 
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 67 
 
 65. [Sheldon, John Prince. 
 
 Prize essay on cheese making, etc. Newcastle-under-Lyme, 1876.] See 
 citation, 39, p. 326. 
 
 66. SllUTTLEWORTH, A. E. 
 
 The composition of milk, cheese, and whey in relation to one another. Ont. 
 agr. college, Guelph, Ont., Bull. 96. Toronto, Aug. 16, 1894. 
 
 67. Ann. rept. of the professor of chemistry. Ont. agr. coll. and exp. farm, 21st 
 
 aim. rept,. 1895. Toronto, 1896. See p. 25. 
 
 68. SlEBER, Nadina. 
 
 Ueber die angebliche umwandlung dee eiweissee in fett beim reifen des 
 Roquefort-kases. Jrn. f. prakt. chem., n. f., bd. 21, p. 203-221. Leipz., 
 1880. 
 
 69. Snyder, Harry. 
 
 The composition of dairy products. Minn. agr. exp. eta., Bull. 27, p. 50-62. 
 St, Anthony Park, Pel.., 1893. See p. 60. 
 
 70. [SOXHLET, F. 
 
 Erster bericht fiber arbeiten der landw. versuchsstat., Wien, v. 29, [for] 
 1870-78, Wien, 1878.] See citation 39, p. 322, 335. 
 
 71. Spica, Matteo, and Blasi, Ltjigi de. 
 
 Ricerche chimichesui formaggi siciliani. Staz. Bper. agr. ital., v. 23, fasc. 2, 
 
 agosto, p. 132-153. Asti, Sept, 25, 1892. See p. 148. 
 
 72. [Storch, V. 
 
 Forschungen auf dem gebiete der viehhaltung, 1879, p. 166-232.] See cita- 
 tion 39, p. 333. 
 
 73. Stutzer, A. 
 
 Die chemische untersuchungen der kilse. Ztschr. f. analyt. chem., jahrg. 35, 
 p. 493-502. Wiesbaden, 1896. See p. 502. 
 
 74. Van Slyke, Lucius Lincoln. 
 
 Investigation of cheese. N. Y. agr. exp. sta., n. s., Bull. 37. ( leneva, Nov., 
 1891. 
 
 75. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during May. Ibid., Pull. 43, June, 
 
 1892. 
 
 76. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during June. Ibid., Bull. 45, 
 
 Aug., 1892. 
 
 77. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese. Ibid., Pull. 46, Sept.; Hull. 47, 
 
 Nov., 1892. 
 
 78. Summary of results of experiments made in the manufacture of cheeseduring 
 
 the season of 1892. Ibid., Bull. 50, Jan., 1893. 
 
 79. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese. Ibid., Pull. 54, May; Bull. 56, 
 
 May; Bull. 60, Oct.; Pull. 61, Nov.; Pull. 62, Dec, 1893; Pull. 65, Jan., 
 1894. 
 
 80. Vieth, P. 
 
 Mitteilungen aus dem laboratorium der Aylesbury Company in London. 
 Milch-ztg., jahrg. 1(1. no. 7. p. 120-121. Bremen, Feb. 16. 1887. 
 
 81. Mitteilungen aus dem laboratorium dor Aylesbury Dairy Company in London. 
 
 Milch-ztg., jahrg. 21, no. 12, p. 191-192. Bremen, March 19, 1892. 
 82 Bericht fiber die thatigkeit des milchwirtschaftlichen institute in Hameln nn 
 
 jahre 1897. Hannover, 1898. See p. 33. 
 
 83. VOELCKNER, AUGUSTUS. 
 
 On the composition of cheese and on practical mistakes in cheese-making. 
 Jrn. roy. agr. soc., v. 22, p. 29-69. Lond., 1861. 
 
 84. Cheese experiments. Ibid., V. 23, p. 170-191. Lond., 1862. 
 
68 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
 
 Voelckner, Augustus — Continued. 
 
 85. On a peculiar kind of Swedish whey cheese, and on a Norwegian goats'-milk 
 
 cheese. Ibid., ser. 2, v. 6, p. 333-336. Lond., 1870. 
 
 86. Amerikanischer kase aus magerer milch mit zusatz von schmalz oder oleo- 
 
 niargarin. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 11, no. 28, p. 438-439. Bremen, July 12, 1882. 
 
 87. Wallace, Henry C. 
 
 Investigations in cheese-making. Iowa agr. exp. sta., Bull. 21, p. 735-767. 
 Ames, 1893. See p. 756. 
 
 88. Weems, J. B. 
 
 Unpublished data. Analyses made at Iowa a^r. coll., 1896. Samples fur- 
 nished by J. H. Monrad. 
 
 89. Werenskiold, Frederik H. 
 
 Aarsberetning angaaende de offentlige foranstaltninger til landbrugets fremme 
 i aaret 1885. Kristiania, 1886. See p. 78. 
 
 90. Ibid., [for] 1893. Kristiania, 1894. See p. 87. 
 
 91. Wilson, N. E. 
 
 Cheese and cheese manufacture. Nevada agr. exp. sta., Bull. 18, Reno, Nov., 
 1892. 
 
 92. Zega, A. 
 
 Kajmak. Chem.-ztg., jahrg. 21, no. 6, p. 41. CSthen, Jan. 20, 1897. 
 
 93. Zega, A., and Bajic, M. 
 
 Katschkawalj. Chem.-ztg., jahrg. 19, no. 85, p. 1920. Cothen, Oct. 23, 1895. 
 
 94. Zega, A., and Panics, L. 
 
 Serbischer kase. Chem.-ztg. , jahrg. 22, no. 1 8, p. 158. Cothen, March 2, 1898. 
 
INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 
 
 Aberlam: Description, 7. 
 
 Albumin. See Ziger. 
 
 Atemtejo: Description, 7; analysis, 56. 
 
 Algau. Srr Limbiirg. 
 
 Algau Emmental. See Emmental. 
 
 Alpin: Description, 7. 
 
 Altenburg: Description, 7. 
 
 Alt Knhkiise. Sec Hand. 
 
 Altsohl. Sec Brinsen. 
 
 Ambert: Description, 7 
 
 Aneien Imperial: Description, 7. 
 
 Ancona. See Pecorino. 
 
 Appenzell: Description, 7. 
 
 Arnauten. See Travnik. 
 
 Auvergne (or Auvergne Bleu). See I lantal. 
 
 Backstein (see also Limburg): Description, 7; 
 analysis, 56. 
 
 Banbury: Description. 8. 
 
 Barberey: Description, 8. 
 
 Battlemat: Description, 8; analysis. 56. 
 
 Bauden: Description, 8. 
 
 Belgian Cooked: Description, 8. 
 
 Bellelay: Description, 8; analysis, 56. 
 
 Belluncse. Sec Emmental. 
 
 Bergquara: Description, 9. 
 
 Bergues. See Leyden. 
 
 Berliner Kuhkase. Sec Hand. 
 
 Bleu {see also Gex: Sassenage; Septmonccl) : De- 
 scription, 9. 
 
 Blue Dorset. See Dorset. 
 
 Bondon (sec also Neufchatel): Analysis, 56. 
 
 Boudanne: Description, 9. 
 
 Boulette. See Maroilles. 
 
 Box (Ann): Description, 9. 
 
 Box (soft): Description, 9. 
 
 Bra: Description, 10. 
 
 Brand: Description, 10. 
 
 Brick: Description, 10; analysis, 56. 
 
 Brickbat: Description, 10. 
 
 Brie: Description, 11; analysis, 56. 
 
 Brinsen: Description.il; analysis, 56. 
 
 Briol. See Limburg. 
 
 Brizecon. See Reblochon. 
 
 Broccio (see also Ziger): Description, 11. 
 
 Brocotte. See Ziger. 
 
 Burgundy: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 
 
 Cacio. See Parmesan. 
 
 Cacio Pecorino Romano. See Pecorino. 
 
 Cacio Romano. See Chivari. 
 
 Caciocavello: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 
 
 Caerphilly: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 
 
 Cambridge: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 
 
 Camembert: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 
 
 Cancoillotte. See Fromage Fort. 
 
 Canquillote (seealso Fromage Fort) : Description. 
 13. 
 
 Cantal: Description, 13; analysis, 56. 
 Carinthian. See Limburg. 
 
 Carre Afline. Sec Aneien Imperial. 
 
 Castello Branco. See Serra da Estrella. 
 
 Ccracee. Sec Zip]-. 
 
 Champolebn: Description, 13. 
 
 Chaource: Description, 14. 
 
 Chaschol dc Chaschosis: Description, 14. 
 
 Cheddar: Description, 14; analysis, 57. 
 
 Cheshire: Description, 15; analysis, 58. 
 
 Cheshire-Stilton: Description, 15. 
 
 Chevret. See Goat's Milk. 
 
 Chevrotin. Sec Goat's Milk. 
 
 Chivari: Description, 15. 
 
 Clerimbert. Sec Alpin. 
 
 Colmar. See Minister. 
 
 Commission: Description, 16. 
 
 Compiegne. Sec Camembert. 
 
 Contentin. See Camembert. 
 
 Cooked: Description, L6. 
 
 Cotherstone: Description, 16; analysis, 58. 
 
 Cotrone. See Pecorino. 
 
 Cottage: Description, 16. 
 
 Coulommiers: Description, 16; analysis, 58. 
 
 Cream: Description, 10; analysis, 58. 
 
 Cream, French Demi-scl: Analysis, 58. 
 
 Crescenza: Analysis, 58. 
 
 C reuse: Description, 17. 
 
 Cristalinna: Description, 17. 
 
 Daisies. Sec Cheddar. 
 
 Damen: Descripl ion, 17. 
 
 Danish Export: Description, 17; analysis, 58. 
 
 Dauphin. Sec Maroilles. 
 
 Delft. Sec Leyden. 
 
 Demi-scl. See Cream. 
 
 Derbyshire: Description, 17; analysis, 58. 
 
 Devonshire Cream: Description, 18. 
 
 Domestic Swiss. Sec Emmental. 
 
 Dorset: Description, 18; analysis, 58. 
 
 Dotter: Description, 18. 
 
 Dresdener Bierkilsc. See Hand. 
 
 Dry: Description, 18. 
 
 Duel: Description, 18. 
 
 Dunlop: Description, is; analysis, 5S. 
 
 Dutch: See Cottage. 
 
 Edam: Description, IS; analysis, 58. 
 
 Elbing: Description, 19. 
 
 Emmental: Description, 19; analysis, 58. 
 
 Emmersdorf. Sec Limburg. 
 
 Engadine: Description, 21; analysis, 58. 
 
 English Dairy: Description, 21. 
 
 Epoisse: Description, 21. 
 
 Ervy (see also Troyes): Description, 21. . 
 
 Farm: Description, 21. 
 
 Ferme. Sec Farm. 
 
 Filled: Description, 21. 
 
70 
 
 INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 
 
 Flats. See Cheddar. 
 
 Flower: Description, 22. 
 Fondue. See Fromagc Fort. 
 Fontinc d'Aosta. See Emmental. 
 Formagelle: Description, 22. 
 Formaggie di Capra. See Goat's Milk. 
 Formaggini: Description, 22. 
 Formaggini di Lecco: Analysis, 58. 
 Formaggio Dolce. See Emmental. 
 Formaggio Duro. See Nostrale. 
 Formaggio Grana Lodigiano. See Parmesan. 
 Formaggio Tenero. Sec Nostrale. 
 Fourme. See Cantal. 
 Fourme d'Ambert. See Anibert. 
 Freisa. See Cooked. 
 Fresco. See Stracchino. 
 Fromagere. See Canquillote; Fromage Fort. 
 Fromage a la Crcme. See Cream. 
 Fromage a la Pie. See Farm. 
 Fromage Blanc. See White. 
 Fromage Bleu. Sec Bleu. 
 Fromage Double Creme. See Cream. 
 Fromage de Boite. See Box (soft). 
 Fromage de Bourgogne. See Burgundy. 
 Fromage de Foin. See Hay. 
 Fromage de Troycs. See Barberey. 
 Fromage Fort: Description, 22. 
 Fromagc Mou. See Maquee. 
 Fromage Persille. See Gex; Bleu. 
 Gaiskasli. See Goat's Milk. 
 Gammelost: Description, 22; analysis, 58. 
 Gautrais: Description, 22. 
 Gavot: Description. 22. 
 Geheimrath: Description, 22. 
 Ge>om6 (sec also Monster] : Description, 23. 
 Gervais (see also Cream): Description, 23; analy- 
 sis, 58. 
 Gex: Description, 23; analysis, 5'J. 
 Gislev: Description, 24; analysis, 5'j 
 Glarnerkase. See Sap Sago. 
 Gloire des Montagnes. See Damen. 
 Glumse: Description, 24. 
 
 Gloucester (.see also Derbyshire) : Analysis, 59. 
 Goat's Milk: Description, 24; analysis, 59. 
 Gorgonzola: Description, 24; analysis, 59. 
 Gouda: Description, 25; analysis, 59. 
 Gournay: Description, 25. 
 Goya: Description, 25. 
 Grana. See Parmesan. 
 Granular Curd: Description, 25. 
 Gratairon. See Goat's Milk. 
 Gray: Description, 25. 
 Grottenhof. See Limburg. 
 Gruau de Montagne. See Ziger. 
 Grunerkase. See Sap Sago. 
 Gruyere: Description, 26; analysis, 59. 
 Guiole. See Laguiole. 
 Giissing: Description, 26. 
 Hand: Description, 26. 
 Hartkase. See Saanen. 
 Harz: Description, 26; analysis, 59. 
 Hay: Description, 26. 
 Herv§ (see also Limburg) : Analysis, 59. 
 Hobbe. See Leyden. 
 Hohenburg. See Box (firm). 
 Hohenheim: Description, 27. 
 Holstein Dairy Cheese. See Leather. 
 
 Holstein Health: Description, 27. 
 
 Holstein Skim-milk: Description, 27. 
 
 Holsteiner Gesundheits Kase: See Holstein 
 
 Health. 
 Holsteiner Magerkase. See Holstein Skim-milk. 
 Hop: Description, 27. 
 Hopfen. See Hop. 
 Hudelziger. See Ziger. 
 Hvid Gjedcost: Description, 27. 
 Iglesias. See Pecorino. 
 Ihlefeld. See Hand. 
 Ilha: Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
 Incanestrato: Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
 Isigny: Description, 28. 
 Jochbcrg: Description, 28. 
 Josephine: Description, 28. 
 Jura. See Septmoncel. 
 Kajmak: Description, 2S; analysis, 59. 
 Kascaval: Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
 Katschkawalj : Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
 Katzenkopf. See Edam. 
 Kirgischkiise. See Krutt. 
 Kjarsgaard: Description, 28. 
 Kloster: Description, 29. 
 Klencz. See Brinsen. 
 Knaost. See Pultost. 
 Koejekaars. See Leyden. 
 Kolos-Monostor: Description, 29. 
 Komynde. See Leyden. 
 Koppen: Description, 29. 
 Kosher: Description, 29. 
 Kosher Gouda: Description, 29. 
 •Kniuterkase. See Sap Sago. 
 Krutt: Description, 29; analysis, 59. 
 Kuhbach: Description, 29. 
 Laguiole: Description, 29; analysis, 60. 
 Lamothe. See Goat's Milk. 
 Lanark. Sec Limburg. 
 Lancashire: Description, 29. 
 Landoch. See Brinsen. 
 Langres: Description, 30. 
 Lapland: Description, 30. 
 Larron. See Maroilles. 
 Latticini: Description, 30. 
 Leather: Description, 30. 
 Leder. See Leather. 
 Leicester (see also Derbyshire) : Description, 30; 
 
 analysis, 60. 
 Leonessa. See Pecorino. 
 Leyden: Description, 31; analysis, 60. 
 Lindenhof. See Limburg. 
 Limburg: Description, 31; analysis, 60. 
 Liptau (see also Brinsen): Description, 31. 
 Livarot: Description, 32; analysis, 60. 
 Livlander. See Hand. 
 Long Horns. See Cheddar. 
 Lorraine: Description, 32. 
 Liineberg: Description, 32. 
 Maconnais: Description, 32. 
 Macqueline: Description, 32. 
 Maigre. See Farm. 
 Majocchina. See Incanestrato. 
 Maikase: Description, 33. 
 Mainz Hand: Description, 33; analysis, 60. 
 Malakofl (see also Neufchatel) : Description, 33. 
 Manur: Description, 37. 
 Maquee: Description, 33. 
 
INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 
 
 71 
 
 Marianhoi. Sec Limbing. 
 
 Markiscb Hand: Description, 33. 
 
 Maroilles: Description, 33; analysis, 60. 
 
 Mascarpone: Description, 34; analysis, 60. 
 
 Uascarponi. Sec Ziger. 
 
 Manbollen. St e Edam. 
 
 Mecklenberg Skim: Description, 34. 
 
 Mignot: Description, 34. 
 
 Milano. Sec Stracchino. 
 
 ULondsee. See Box (firm). 
 
 Monk's Head. See Bellelay. 
 
 Montasio: Description, 34. 
 
 Montavoner: Description, 34. 
 
 Mont Cenis: Description, 35. 
 
 Mont d'Or: Description, 35; analysis, 60. 
 
 Monthlery: Description, 35. 
 
 Morin. Sec Limbing. 
 
 Mou. See Farm. 
 
 Mozarinelli: Description, 35. 
 
 Minister: Description, 35; analysis, 60. 
 
 My sos t: Description, 36; analysis, 60. 
 
 Nessel: Description, 36. 
 
 Neufchatel: Description, 36; analysis, 60. 
 
 Neusohl. See Brinsen. 
 
 New Milk: Description, 37. 
 
 Niederungkase. See Elbing. 
 
 Nieheim: Description, 36. 
 
 Nogelost: Analysis, 60. 
 
 Nostrale: Description, 37. 
 
 Olivet: Description, 37; analysis, 60. 
 
 Olmiitzer Bierka.se. Sec Sand. 
 
 Olmutzer Quargel (Olmiitz): Description, 37; 
 
 analysis, 60. 
 Paglia: Description, 38. 
 Pago: Description, 38. 
 Paneddas. See Cooked. 
 Parmesan: Description, 38; analysis, 60. 
 Pate Bleu, gee Bleu. 
 Pavilion. Sec Camembert. 
 Pecorino: Description, 39; analysis, 00. 
 Pecorino Dolce. Sec Pecorino. 
 Pecorino Tuscano. See Pecorino. 
 Petit Carre. See Ancien Imperial; Neufchatel. 
 Petit Suisse {see also Neufchatel): Analysis, 60. 
 Pfister: Description, 39. 
 Philadelphia, Cream: Description, 39. 
 Pimp. See Mainz Hand. 
 Pineapple: Description, 39; analysis, 60. 
 Poitiers. See Goat's Milk. 
 Pnnt I'Eveque: Description, 40; analysis, 60. 
 Port du Saint: Description, 4u; analysis, 60. 
 Potato: Description, 40. 
 Potted: Description, 41; analysis, 6L 
 Prattig&u: Description, 41. 
 Prestost: Description, 41. 
 Providence: Description, 41. 
 Pro vole: Description, 41. 
 Provoloni. See Provole. 
 Puglia. See Pecorino. 
 Pultost: Description, 41. 
 Quadro. See Stracchino. 
 Quartirola. See Stracchino. 
 Queso de CLncho: Description, 41. 
 Queso de Hoja: Description, 42. 
 Queso de Mano: Description, 42. 
 Queso de Palma Metida. See Queso de Cincho. 
 Queso de Prensa: Description, 42. 
 
 Queso de Puno: Description, 42. 
 Queyras. Sec Champolebn. 
 
 Rabacal: Description, 42; analysis, 61. 
 Raderj : t 'escription, 42. 
 
 Eangiport: Description, 42. 
 Paper. Set Rayon. 
 Raschera. See Nostrale. 
 Rayon: Description, 42. 
 Rebbiola: Description, 43; analysis, 61. 
 Reblochon: Description, 43; analysis, 61. 
 Rccuit. See Ziger. 
 Reggian. See Parmesan. 
 Reggiano. See Pannesan. 
 Reibkase. See Saanen. 
 
 Reindeer Milk: Description, 4:i; analysis, 61. 
 Remoudou. See Romadour. 
 Rheinwald. Sec Schamser. 
 Ricotta (see also Ziger) : Analysis, 61. 
 Rinnen: Description, 43. 
 Riesengebirge: Description, 43. 
 Robiola. See Rebbiola. 
 Roll: Description, 43. 
 Rollot: Description, 44. 
 Romadour: Description, 44; analysis, 61. 
 Romano* See Pecorino. 
 Romatur. Sec Romadour. 
 Roquefort: Description, 44; analysis, 61. 
 St. Michels. Sec Limburg. 
 Saint Benoit: Description, 45. 
 Saint Claude: Description, 45. 
 Saint Marcellin: Description, 45. 
 Saint Remy: Description, 45. 
 Saaland Pfarr. See Prestost. 
 Saanen: Description, 45. 
 Sage: Description, 45. 
 Saloio: Description, 45; analysis, 61. 
 Sap Sago: Description, 46; analysis, 61. 
 Sassenage (seealso Gcx): Description, 46. 
 Satz. See Hand. 
 Savoy: Analysis, 61. 
 Scanno: Description, 46. 
 Scarmorze: Description, 46. 
 Schabzieger. See Sap Sago. 
 Schachtelkiise. See Box (soft I. 
 Schamser: Description, 46. 
 Schlesischer Saucrmilehkase. See Silesian. 
 Schlesischer Weidhquarg. Sec Silesian. 
 Scnloss: Description, 47. 
 Schol tengsied : I description, 47. 
 Scbutzen. Sec Limburg. 
 Schwarzenberg: Description, 47. 
 Schweitzer. See Swiss. 
 Sehecterre: Description, 47. 
 Septmoncel (seeahoQex): Description, 47; anal- 
 ysis, 61. 
 Serae. Sec Ziger. 
 
 Serra da Estrella: Description, 47; analysis, 61. 
 Servian: Description, 48; analysis, 61. 
 Siebenbiirgen. See Brinsen. 
 Silesian: Description, 48. 
 Siraz: Description, 48. 
 Slipcote: Description, 48. 
 Smear-case. See Cottage. 
 Sorte Maggenga. See Parmesan. 
 Sorte Vermenga. See Parmesan. 
 Soumaintrain. See Camembert. 
 Spalen: Description, 48; analysis, 61. 
 
72 
 
 INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEES ; £. 
 
 Sperrkase. See Dry. 
 
 Spitz: Description, 48. 
 
 Squares. See Cheddar. 
 
 Steppes: Description, 49. 
 
 Stilton: Description, 49; analysis, 61. 
 
 Stracchino: Description, 49. 
 
 Stracchino di Gorgonzola. See Gorgonzola. 
 
 Strassburg. See Minister. 
 
 Stringer. See Spalen. 
 
 Styria: Description, 49. 
 
 Sweet Curd: Description, 50. 
 
 Swiss: Description, 50; analysis, 61. 
 
 Tafi: Description, 50. 
 
 Tamie: Description, 50. 
 
 Tanzenberg. See Limburg. 
 
 Tempete. See Canquillote. 
 
 Tessel: Analysis, 61. 
 
 Tete de Maure. See Edam. 
 
 Tete de Moine. See Bellelay. 
 
 Texel: Description, 50. 
 
 Thenay: Description, 50; analysis, 62. 
 
 Thraanen. See Emmcntal. 
 
 Thuringia. See Hand. 
 
 Thury-en-Valois. Sec Camembert. 
 
 Tignard: Description, 50. 
 
 Tilsit: Description, 51. 
 
 Tome de Beaumont. See Tamie. 
 
 Tome de Montagne. See Vacherin. 
 
 Topfen (See also Cooked): Analysis, 62. 
 
 Toppen: Description, 51. 
 
 Trappist: Description, 51; analysis, 02 
 
 Travnik: Description, 51. 
 
 Trouville: Description, 52. 
 
 Troyes: Description, 52; analysis, 62. 
 
 Trockenkase. Sec Dry. 
 
 Tuile de Flandre. See Maroilles. 
 
 Tworog: Description, 52. 
 
 Uri: Description, 52. 
 
 Vacherin: Description, 52; analysis, 62. 
 
 Vendome: Description, 52; analysis, 61. 
 
 Villiers: Description, 52. 
 
 Viterbo (see also Fceorino) : Analysis, 62. 
 
 Vlasic. See Travnik. 
 
 Void: Description, 53. 
 
 Vorarlbcrg Sour-milk: Description, 53; analysis 
 
 62. 
 Walliskase. See Saanen. 
 
 Warwickshire (see also Derbyshire) : Analysis, 62. 
 Weihenstephan. See Box (firm). 
 Weisslak: Description, 53. 
 Wensleydale: Description, 53; analysis, 62. 
 West Friesian: Description, 53. 
 Westphalia Sour-milk: Description, 53. 
 Werderkase. Sec Elbing. 
 Wiltshire (see also Derbyshire) : Analysis, 62. 
 Withania: Description, 54. 
 White: Description, 54. 
 Yorkshire-Stilton. See Cotherstone. 
 Young Americas. See Cheddar. 
 Ziegel: Description, 54. 
 Ziegenkase. See Goat's Milk. 
 Ziger: Description, 54; analysis, 62. 
 Zips. See Brinsen. 
 
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