Glass Q^G&Q-. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/searchfornorthpoOObald 2M1 Photo by Root, Chicago. THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; OR.- Life in the Great White World. A Complete and Connected Story of Arctic Explorations, Supetbly Illustrated from Real Scenes. Replete with Anecdote, Incident, Thrilling Adventure, and Intensely Interesting Information. The Book with a Purpose Consecrated to Further Polar Investigation. EVELYN BRIGGS BALDWIN, A. M. Member of the Chicago Academy of Sciences, Member of the National Geographic Society Washington, D. C, Non-Resident Member of the Geographical Club of Philadelphia, formerly Assistant Observer United States Weather Bureau, and Meteorologist to the Peary North Greenland Expedition, 1893-4. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. U. S. A Copyright, i8q6 BY EVELYN B. BALDWIN. -«3C^VaO^_.^4\ SPECIAL NOTICE, — As this book is published for the advancement of Polar Research and as a direct means of increasing the funds for the better equipment of our expedition, all com- munications relative thereto should be addressed as follows: (Business address) E. B. BALDWIN, Slayton Lyceum Bureau, Central Music Hall, Chicago, III. (Or, Naperville, 111.) DEDICATED TO My grandfather, Nathaniel Crampton, Esq., for his generous encour- agement at all times; TO My father, who, with the patriotism of a soldier and the appreciation of a scholar, once and again has said "Go!" TO My mother, who finds "in all this discipline a verification of her faith in the leadings of a Divine Providence"- TO My comrades whose fellowship in North Greenland, amidst scenes of common interest, is ever an inspiration for further effort; TO The members and friends of the auxiliary expeditions by whom we were restored opportunely and in health to our homes as an unbroken band; and, finally, TO All lovers of the arts and sciences, among whom are especially the subscribers to this volume as well as to those who may otherwise pro- mote the cause in the advancement of which it has been gladly written. MAPS AND PRINCIPAL ILLUSTRATIONS. Nos. Pages. 1. — Frontispiece. 2-3.— Fatal Accident on the Matterhorn— Group of Arctic Ex- plorers Between 16 and 17 4-5.— Groups Parry's First and Second Expeditions Between 32 and 33 6.— Barents' House (Exterior and Interior) 43 7-10. — Groups Franklin's First Expedition Between 48 and 49, 64 and 65 11-14. — Groups Parry's Second Expedition Between 80 and 81, 96 and 97 15. — Group Early Explorers • 97 16.— Map of the North Polar Regions 104-105 17-20.- Groups Franklin's Second Expedition.. Between 112 and 113, 128 and 129 21-22. — The "Fury;" Eskimo Weapons; Glacier; Seal. .Between 144 and 145 23-26. — Upernavik: Midnight Scene; Church and Parsonage; the Three Graces; Native Huts. — Sir Leopold McClintock Between 160 and 161, 176 and 177 27-28. — West Greenland Group; Melville Bay, Eskimos, etc Between 192 and 193 29-30. — Cumberland Eskimos. — Sea Game. — South Greenland Natives Between 208 and 209 31-32. — Reindeer. — Siberian Life: — Reindeer; Swans; Geese Between 224 and 225 33-34.— Officers Nares' Expedition; West Greenland Views Between 240 and 241 35-36.— Godthaab; Nordenskiold, King Oscar, Lockwood. Between 256 and 257 37. — Map: From Baffin's Bay to Lincoln Sea 268 38-39— Baffin's Bay Views:— Natives, Dogs, Glaciers.. . .Between 272 and 273 - 40.— Map Of King William's Land 285 41-42.— General Greely; Cape Dudley Digges; Natives. . .Between 288 and 289 43-44.— Musk-Calves, Floe-Ice; Greely Relief Vessels — Between 304 and 305 45-46. — Cairn, Kyakers, etc.; Godhaven, Ships, Natives.. Between 320 and 321 47-48. — West Greenland Views; Lady Franklin Bay Expedition Between 336 and 337 49-50. — Return of the Greely Survivors; Lieut. Peary, Sea Ice Between 352 and 353 51-52. — Companions in Furs Between 368 and 369 53-54.— The "Falcon," Capt. Bartlett; Etah Eskimos, Cape York ..Between 384 and 385 55-56.— The "Falcon:"— Crew; at Disco Between 400 and 401 57-58. — Peary Relief Expedition; Dr. Chamberlin Between 416 and 417 59-60. — Climbing a Glacier; Dr. Chamberlin, Mr. Bridgman, and the Author on Greenland Glaciers Between 432 and 433 61-62. — Ice-berg, Aurora Borealis; the "Kite" Betv/een 448 and 449 63-64. — Lieut. Brainard, Paleocrystic Ice; Jackson-Harmsworth Expe- dition Between 464 and 465 65-66. — Nansen and the "Fram;" Masonic Apron, Etc. .Between 480 and 481 67-68. — Botanical Specimens; Antarctic Explorers Between 496 and 497 69. — Names and Ages (1893) of Nansen's Associates 497 70. — Jackson and Harmsworth, the "Windward" 502 71.— Andree's Balloon 505 72. — "Farewell," the "Fair Augusta" 511 73.— Hunting Musk-Cattle 518 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I.— To Our Readers and Friends.— Defense of Polar Explora- tions. — Loss of Life in Arctic Exploration. — Means of Equipping Expedi- tions. — Mission of This Book. — ^Acknowledgments 11-31 CHAPTER II.— Early Norse, English, and Dutch Voyages: Ericson.— Northeast and Northwest Passages. — Frobisher. — Drake. — Barents. — Barents' Death. — Slaughter of Arctic Game. — Conflicts with Eskimos. — Sad Fate of Hudson.— Search for Hudson.— Discovery of Baffin's Bay. — Noble Fellows: Captain James and Companions. — Origin of the Hud- son's Bay Company 32-66 CHAPTER III.— Russian Arctic Voyages: — Private Adventurers. — Peter the Great's Patronage. — Vitus Bering. — The Greatest Geographical Enterprise Ever Undertaken ■ 67-85 CHAPTER IV.— Arctic Voyages of Captain Cook, the Scoresbys, Sir John Ross, and Others: — Benjamin Franklin's Patronage. — Discovery of the Hawaiian Islands. — Discovery of the Mackenzie River. — The Gospel Among the Eskimos.— The Northernmost Tribe of People in the World. — Crimson-Colored Snow 86-101 CHAPTER V. — Parry's First Voyage:— Wonderful Discoveries; A Fascinating Narrative 102-115 CHAPTER VI.— Franklin's First Expedition:— Franklin's Soldier Life.— Ex- plores British America. — Sufferings, and Death of Companions. .116-129 CHAPTER VII. — Russian Expeditions: — Wrangell's Great Journeys in Siberia and on the Arctic Ocean. — Life Among the Chookchees, Yakuts, Tun- guses, and Yakagires. — Visits the Bear Islands. — Observance of Easter Sunday.— Exploration of the Tundras 130-157 CHAPTER VIII.— Parry's Second Voyage-— Capture of a Huge Bear.— Sports With the Eskimos. — Hunting Arctic Game.— Explores Region about the Gulf of Boothia 158-167 CHAPTER IX.— Voyages of Sabine, and Lyon:— To Spitzbergen, and the East Coast of Greenland; to Hudson's Bay. — Lyon's Miraculous Escape. . 168-171 CHAPTER X.— Parry's Third Voyage:— To Prince Regent's Inlet.— Abandon- ment of the "Fury" 172-176 CHAPTER XI.— Franklin's Second Expedition, and the Voyage of the "Blossom": — Descent of the Mackenzie. — Auroral Displays. — Hostile Eskim-os 177-182 6 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII.— Parry's Fourth Voyage: Attainment of a High Latitude North of Spitzbergen 183-189 CHAPTER XIII. — Second Voyage of Sir John Ross: — Discovery of the North Magnetic Pole. — Booth's Generous Patronage. — A Thrilling Deliverance 190-197 CHAPTER XIV.— Expeditions of Back, and of Dease and Simpson:— To the North Coast of America. — Assassination of Simpson 198-204 CHAPTER XV.— Middendorf in the Taimur Peninsula:— Summer "Weather and Animal Life. — A Grateful Savage 205-208 CHAPTER XVI.— Fateful Voyage of Franklin, and Expedition of Rae:— Last Message of Franklin. — Rae on Committee Bay 209-212 CHAPTER XVII.— Richardson's Search for Franklin:— He Visits the United States. — Travels via Great Lakes and the Mackenzie River to the Arctic Coast. — Finds Newspapers Within the Arctic World 213-218 CHAPTER XVIII.— Search Expedition of James C. Ross:— To Lancaster Sound and North Somerset 219-221 CHAPTER XIX.— Voyage of the "North Star" 222 CHAPTER XX.— Voyage of the "Plover" and the "Herald" 22a CHAPTER XXL— The Search Continued:— The Admiralty Squadron and Private Expeditions. — The Americans Assist. — Discouraging Results. 224-226: CHAPTER XXII. — Kennedy's Search Voyage: — Exploration of Prince of Wales Land and North Somerset 227-230 CHAPTER XXIIL— Voyage of McClure and Collinson.— Discovery of a North- west Passage: To Bering's Strait. — A Strange Deception. — McClure's Discovery of Bank's, or Baring's Land, and of Prince Albert's Land. — McClure's Sympathy for the Eskimos. — Researches. — Peril and Deliver- ance. — McClure's Gratitude. — Game. — Collinson's Successful Voyage 231-241 CHAPTER XXIV.— Belcher's Search Squadron: Rescue of McClure.— Aban- donment of the Vessels 242-248 CHAPTER XXV. — The American Search Expedition: — Grinnell's Generosity. — Congressional Debate. — Red Snow. — Traces of Franklin. — A Perilous Besetment 249-260 CHAPTER XXVL— Rae's Search and Discovery:— Death of Franklin's Party- by Starvation 261-262 CHAPTER XXVII.— Inglefield's Voyage:— A Signal Success 263-264 CHAPTER XXVIII. — Kane's Expedition:— Grinnell's Generosity Again. — Ex- plorations in Kane Basin. — Critical Situation and Attempt to Escape. — Final Release 26-5-282 CHAPTER XXIX.— McClintock's Successful Voyage:— Important Informa- tion Concerning the Fate of Franklin's Party. — The Search in King^ William's Land 283-287 CHAPTER XXX.— Expedition of Hayes:— Public Subscriptions.— In Kennedy Channel 288-29S CONTENTS. 7 CHAPTER XXXI.— Hall's First Expedition:— A Struggle for Recognition. — Generous Patrons. — Life Among the Cumberland Island Eskimos. 299-307 CHAPTER XXXII.— Hall's Second Expedition:— His Heart in the Cause. — Discoveries in King William's Land 308-312. CHAPTER XXXIII.— German Expeditions:— Public Donations.— The King's Sympathy. — A Perilous Drift on the Sea Ice. — Explorations in East Greenland.— Scientific Study of Polar Life 313-319 CHAPTER XXXIV.— Hall's Last Voyage:— His Death.— Miraculous Preserva- tion of Life. — Among the Famous Etah Eskimos. — Lost and Afloat on the Sea Ice.— The End by Rescue 323-340 CHAPTER XXXV.— The Discovery of Franz- Josef Land:— Generous Patron- age. — Energetic Leaders. — Loyal Men. — Sunday Observance. — ^A Joyful Surprise. — Escape by Sledge and Boat 341-353 CHAPTER XXXVL— The English Expedition of 1875-6:— Patriotic Interest.— Explorations in Grinnell Land. — Markhem's Sledge Journey. 354-362 CHAPTER XXXVII.— Schwatka's Expedition to King William's Land:— Pri- vate Subscriptions. — A Long Sledge Journey. — Abundance of Animal Life.— Intense Cold 363-367 CHAPTER XXXVIII.— Nordenskiold's Wonderful Voyage:— Explorations Along the Siberian Coast. — Through the Northeast Passage 368-373 CHAPTER XXXIX.— De Long's Gallant Struggle:— Mr. Bennett's Liberality.— Through Bering's Strait. — Life in the "Jeannette." — Islands Discov- ered. — The "Jeannette" Crushed.— On the Retreat. — Separation in a Gale. — Death's Horrid March. — Deliverance of the Survivors 374-404 CHAPTER XL. — Heroic Americans: — The Lady Franklin Bay Expedition. — Life at Fort Conger. — Abundance of Game. — Scientific Research. — Attainment of the "Farthest North." — Failures of the Relief Parties. — Retreat to Cape Sabine. — Death by Starvation. — Rescue of the Sur- vivors 405-427 CHAPTER XLI.— Nansen's First Triumph as an Explorer:— The First Jour- ney Across Greenland. — Life and Customs of the Eskimos 428-441 CHAPTER XLIL— With Lieutenant Peary.— The Author's Plans for Polar Research. — Lieutenant Brainard's Indorsement. — Comrade Astrup's Trip to Melville Bay 442-495 CHAPTER XLIII. — Nansen's Last Famous Voyage: — His Equipment. — Names and Ages of His Associates 496-500 CHAPTER XLIV.— The English in Franz- Josef Land:— The Jackson-Harms- worth Expedition 501-502 CHAPTER XLV.— To the North Pole by Balloon:— Mr. Andree's Project. 503-506; CHAPTER XLVI. — Lovers of the Arts and Sciences: — Free and Accepted Ma- sonry in Arctic Exploration. — Emblems Carried Northward. — Interest Taken in Scientific Exploration by Kane Lodge, New York. — Presenta- tion of an Historical Painting. — Fntertaining and Instructive Ad- dresses. — Our Working Principle 507-520 ESKIMO MELODY. j ^a-a Nja-a ^a-a ^a • a -ja - a sja - a ^a - a vja - a -ja - a \ *ja - a ■^a • a ^a • a ^a - a '^a • a ^a - a '^a - a. Ha / -^a - a >3a - a "^a - a, ha -ja - a ^a - a ^a - a, ha I ^a - a -ja - a -ja. Ha ^a - a -ja - a 'ja - a, ha ^ N)a - a N)a - a -)a - a, ha ^a^- a ^ja - a vja. '^a - a I -ja - a *5a - a ^a - a ^a • a -^a • a 'ja - a "ja - a >ja • a ]tr ■^ '^ o*~*~* "♦ '^ • ♦"""■» '-^ *-Zj^' ^ N|a - a N)a - a -ja - a ^a - a sja - a sja - a -ja - a ^a - a » T)im • . I -ja • a -ja - a -ja - a ^a - a v]a - a -ja - a ^a . a. TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN ICE NAVIGATION, ETC, BAY-ICE, OR HARBOR-ICE.— Ice formed annually in bays or closed seas. BESET. — To be nearly or entirely fast in the sea-ice. BORING, OR "BUCKING" ICE.— Forcing the vessel by steam or sail through crowded ice. FIELD-ICE. — Closely aggregated ice covering a large area. FLOE. — A large piece, either of bay-ice or of paleocrystic ice. FLOEBERG. — A paleocrystic iceberg of regular cubical shape, flat top and bottom, perpendicular sides, "stratified" structure, and regular lines of cleavage. HUMMOCK. — An uneven, irregular part of floe-ice rising above the level, as does a mound above a plain. ICE-BLINK, OR ICE-SKY.— Reflection of light from the ice, causing great brightness in the sky at a particular point. ICE-FOOT. — Sea-ice formed along shore. It is stationary and is separated from the main, movable ice by the tide crack. LAND-ICE, OR FAST-ICE.— Floes or grounded masses of ice attached to the land. LANE, OR LEAD. — A narrow channel or passage between ice masses, through which a vessel may pass. NIPPED. — Situation of a ship when jammed or hard pressed by the ice. NORTH POLE (Geographical).— Ninety degrees of north latitude: the point directly beneath the North (Polar) Star. NORTH POLE (Magnetic). — The point where the dipping-needle becomes ver-: tical — nearly twenty degrees (of latitude) south of the North Geographical Pole. See Voyage of John C. Ross. PACK. — A considerable area of ice, consisting of large masses in close prox- imity. A t)ack may be either close or open, depending upon the closeness to which the masses are crowded. 10 TECHNICAL TERMS. PA-LE-0-CRYST-IC ICE.— Ice of great thickness and of such character as must have required many years in its formation. Occurring generally in floes, its surface is undulatory, like the hills and vales of a "rolling prairie." PANCAKE. — A piece of bay-ice. RUBBLE. — Small, sharp, irregular pieces of ice, generally of recent forma- tion, and which have been broken up by pressure of heavy floes. SAILING-ICE. — A pack sufficiently open to allow a sailing-ship to pass through. STREAMS. — Long, narrow aggregations of broken ice. TIDE-CRACK. — The "break," or opening between the ice-foot and the main body of ice. It is formed by the action of the tides, and through it, during heavy, rising tides, water flows, causing tidal overflows. WARPING. — Moving a vessel by means of ropes attached to distant objects. WATER-SKY. — A dark sky, beneath which is generally to be found open water. It may be said to be the counterpart of the ice-blink. YOUNG ICE. — Ice of recent formation; that is, of not more than one year's growth, generally of a much shorter period. BLASTING. — Breaking the ice by means of gunpowder or dynamite. CALF. — A detached piece of ice either from an iceberg or the face of a glacier. CROW'S NEST. — A barrel fastened near the top of the mast, in which the watch may stand in order to direct the course of the ship. DOCK. — A recess in the sea-ice in which a ship may find anchorage. FIORD. — An abrupt opening in the coast. FIRE-HOLE. — A hole kept open through the sea-ice that water may be avail- able in case of flre. PEMMICAN. — Dried lean beef, pulverized and mixed with an equal quantity of suet. This is seasoned with currants and sugar and then the whole heated till the suet has melted and mixed with the other ingredients. It is kept in cans, hermetically sealed. In early times the hunters of British America preserved the flesh of the buffalo by flrst sun-drying and mixing it with the suet and then sewing it into bags made of the green hide of the buffalo. POLYNIA. — A Russian term designating an open water space in the ice. RUE-RADDY. — A shoulder-strap used in pulling the sledge. TIDE-HOLE.— Hole through the sea-ice allowing the rise and fall of the tide to be measured. TRACKING. — Towing or sailing a boat along the edge of the ice. THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: — OR. — LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. CHAPTER I. TO OUR READERS AND FRIENDS. A thoughtful and kindly consideration of the following introductory lines is earnestly requested of every person be- fore whose eyes they may appear. Such a course will explain the motive which has prompted the author in trusting one more book to the tender mercies of an indulgent public. The writer's interest, not merely from theory but from the more practical school of experience, in the matter of exploration and travel, has prompted him to arrange a book "after his own heart" — on the subject of Arctic research. If the reader feels as does the author the importance, the sublimity, of con- tinued effort in the conquest of the Great White World, it is believed that this volume will not be an unwelcome com- panion of its possessor. Its purpose, its plan, its scope, will appear presently. Know you, kind friend and reader, that men of science are agreed that definite knowledge of the Pole and its region will be of great value to the world? Ex-Judge Charles P. Daly, president of the American Geographical Society, once made an address at one of the meetings, in which he said: "Why should we try to reach the North Pole? Why send out costly expeditions involving peril to life and property, when we all know that the approach to the Arctic Zone is 12 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; surrounded by insurmountable barriers? If it involved noth- ing more than the feat of reaching the Pole, it would be very difficult to answer such questions; but the general answer to them is that there is no portion of the globe where observa- tions in respect to scientific matters affecting the whole globe (every part of it) are so important as in the polar basin and its vicinity. The tremendous forces which are there at work and w^hich are the cause of the difficulty of exploration and observation are physical phenomena which it is most im- portant to observe and study. They have to do with the winds, the ocean currents, magnetic influences, and numerous questions of the most practical nature in their application and in the results to which they lead. The amount of knowl- edge in the world which has been discovered by accident is small in proportion to that which has been the result of pre- vious investigation. In the polar region will be found the key to unlock those mysteries in respect to the 'laws of mag- " netism. All knoAv that magnetism is a polar force; that it directs the needle which guides the seaman upon and around the earth. But it is only the scientific man that knows the insurmountable difficulties that beset investigation of its laws and how important to the world is a thorough knowledge of those laws. "The best answer ever given to the query, 'Well, what is the use of these expeditions?' was that given by Franklin, w^hen asked one day as regards his discovery of electricity, 'What is the use of j^our discovery?' Franklin's reply was this: 'What is the use of a child? Make use of it.' The most ordinary things in our present civilization owe their origin to what in their day was scientific information, and they are due to the close observation and patient labors of men who could not have predicted the great results that fol- lowed their researches." In the scholarly language of Lieutenant N. F. Maury, of the United States Navy: "Voyages of discovery, with their fascinations and their charms, have led many a noble champion both into the torrid OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 13 and frigid zones; and, notwithstanding tlie liardships, suffer- ings and disasters to wliicli Northern parties have found themselves exposed, seafaring men, as science has advanced, have looked with deeper and deeper longings toward the mys- tic circles of the polar regions. There icebergs are framed and glaciers launched. There the tides have their cradle, the whales their nursery. There the winds complete their cir- cuits and the currents of the sea their rounds in the wonderful system of oceanic circulation. There the Aurora Borealis is lighted up and the trembling needle brought to rest; and there, too, in the mazes of that mystic circle, terrestrial forces of occult power and of vast influence upon the well-being of man are continually at play. Within the Arctic Circle is the pole of the winds and the poles of the cold, the pole of the earth and of the magnet. It is a circle of mysteries, and the desire to enter it, to explore its untrodden wastes and secret chambers, and to study its physical aspects, has grown into a longing. Noble daring has made Arctic ice and waters classic ground. It is no feverish excitement nor vain ambi- tion that leads man there. It is a higher feeling, a holier mo- tive — a desire to look into the works of creation, to compre- hend the economy of our planet — and to grow wiser and bet- ter by the knowledge. "The expeditions which have been sent to explore unknown sea-s have contributed largely to the extent of human knowl- edge, and they have added renown to nations, and lustre to diadems. Navies are not all for war. Peace has its conquests, science its glories; and no navy can boast of brighter chaplets than those which have been gathered in the fields of geo- graphical exploration and physical research." Mr. Henry Grinnell, at a meeting of the American Geographical Society of New York, summarized the commercial results of Northern exploration as follows: "1. Sir H. Gilbert's discovery of the cod fisheries of New- foundland. 2. From Davis' discoveries the great whale fish- eries of the West. .3. From the discoveries of Hudson (who also discovered and sailed into our North River, which now 14 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; bears his name, while on an Arctic voyage), Hudson's Bay, and the operations of the great fur companies. 4. Sir John Boss; the whale fishery of the north and northwest of Baf- fin's Baj. 5. Captain Parry; whale fishery of Lancaster Sound, Barrow Strait, and Prince Regent Inlet. 6. Admiral Beechy; whale fishery of Bering Straits, in which, in the space of two years, the whalers of Nantucket and New Bedford obtained cargoes from which it is said they have realized eight millions of dollars." A further illustration is to be found in the rapidly develop- ing resources of Alaska, since the purchase of which, from Ilussia, in ISGT, the United States has annually received over 1300,000 in revenue from the sealeries alone. In the foregoing paragraphs we have purposely antici- pated the oft-repeated question, "OP WHAT USE IS ARCTIC EXPLORATION, ANYWAY?" The answers in the language of Lieutenant Maury and Mr. Grinnell should forever silence the tongue of idle objec- tion. As reasonably might one argue against the "use" of spending vast sums of money in studying the worlds now rushing through space millions of miles remote from our little world; or in otherwise promoting the interests of pure science. Well indeed it is for the moral and intellectual well-being of mankind that all are not engaged in the mad rush for wealth, for the mere sake of being considered the possessors — not users — ^of so many thousands! Sublime indeed it is that one gives money, another talent, another prime years, and even another, life — ail that something may be contributed to the sum of human knowledge. Franklin, Kane, Grinnell, Hall, Greely, Lick, Vanderbilt, Rockefeller — all these illustrate the sublimity of man as a public benefactor. No sane person will now question the "use" to which such men put the beneficent portion of their wealth, whether of money or of talent. With- out just such contributions as they individually made how many of them would to-day be known beyond a tombstone in- scription? Of those dead, not one! OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 15 The following editorial from the brilliant pen of Noble Prentis, soldier, traveler, journalist, is of interest here: "THE STORY OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION. "There was an interesting meeting of the Royal Geograph- ical Society in London on Monday evening. The society, we may well suppose, is composed of men in the decline of years, and the 'object of the meeting' was to keep in mind and mem- ory a long-ago event, the sailing away in May, 1845, of the expedition of Sir John Franklin, which nevermore returned. "Among the old men present was Admiral Sir Francis McClintock, who commanded the 'Intrepid,' one of the five vessels which set out in 1852 in search of the lost Sir John and his company, and as he spoke of the experience of the searchers he alluded to the help extended by the Americans as forming a tie that had drawn kindred nations together. President Markham, of the society, sjDoke especially of the act of Henry Grinnell, an American, in fitting out an expedition in 1853, and finally our own Minister, Mr. Bayard, spoke of both Americans and Englishmen who had emulated each other in pressing toward the pole; Greely and Kane and Peary, and Franklin, Ross and McClintock, rivals in bravery and endurance and determination. "The meeting of these elderly gentlemen in a quiet room, talking over the old explorations and the heroes, for the most part gone, afforded a striking history and picture of man's determination to solve the problems of the North. At first bold navigators were led on by the hope of finding a north- west passage to the Pacific and the 'Golden East,' but that idea was dropped as impracticable, after Franklin and all his men had perished; then came expeditions in search of Frank- lin, and then more expeditions to be followed by more 'searches,' and finally effort narrowed down to what may be called the modern expedition, purely scientific in its charac- ter, which aims to settle the question of the open Polar sea. The old plan of sending many vessels, fully manned and equipped, as those of Parry and Franklin, Belcher and the oth- 16 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ers, is no longer attempted. Yet men may be said to push on by twos and threes to the mysterious pole. Not again will a whole ship's company be sacrificed as was Franklin's, who was lost in his third journey, but on any day of the year, it may be said, little companies of men are ready to volunteer for the North. f'The story of Arctic explorations is, that earth nor sky nor ocean can have a terror that will be allowed to baffle man's fixed and intense desire to know. He is determined to tear from the heart of this world its every secret, and no wave so tumultuous and no cloud so black, and no ice gulf so wide, but he will make his way. Amid all the loss and dis- tress, and cold and hunger, and frightful danger and awful death, man has, year by year, worked at the solution of the problem of the North. How since Franklin's time has the map grown! Gulfs, capes, islands, continents have been traced. The blank space around the end of the earth grows smaller; perhaps the man lives who, solitary and alone, shall stand where never man stood before, to say: 'This is the Pole.' " Again, let us cite that incontrovertible Arctic authority. General A. W. Greely, and quote his admirable address on the SCOPE AND VALUE OF ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS, delivered before the Sixth International Geographical Con- gress, held at London, in July, 1895: "In a brief twenty minutes one can touch only in a desul- tory way on this great topic that engages the thought and at- tention of so many famous members of the Geographical Con- gress, yet a somewhat general outline of the scope and value of Arctic exploration may not be amiss. "This, however, is neither time nor place to present in detail those phases of Arctic exploration that appeal so strongly to the popular fancy. If one would gain an ade- quate idea of the true aspects of such voyaging, he must turn to the original journals, penned in the great White North by brave men whose 'purpose held to sail bejond the sunset.' More Dangerous than Arctic Exploration. Accident on the Matterhorn, August, 1893. "We pressed up close to the rock, when the two shot past us. They were tied together. Seller passed close to us * * * Biener flew out against the blue sky, and the rope was stretched tightly between them." Sir John Franklin. Dr. Hayes. Lieut. Schwatka. Mr. Bonsall. Dr. Kane. Capt. Hall. Lieut. De Long. (See Chanters VI., XL, XVJ., XXV., XXVIII.. XXX., XXXI., XXXII., XXXIV. Ibee <_,uaptLr= v i., .vi., xXXV II.. cand XXXIX.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 17 "In these volumes will be found tales of ships beset not only months, but years; of ice packs and ice fields of extent, thickness, and mass so enormous that description conveys no just idea; of boat journeys where constant watchfulness alone prevented instant death by drifting bergs or commingling ice floes; of land marches when exhausted humanity staggered along, leaving traces of blood on snow or rock; of sledge jour- neys over chaotic masses of ice, when humble heroes, strain- ing at the drag-ropes, struggled on because the failure of one compromised the safety of all; of solitude and monotony, ter- rible in the weeks of constant polar sunlight, but almost un- settling the reason in the months of continuous Arctic dark- ness; of silence awful at all times, but made j^et more start- ling by astounding phenomena that appeal noiselessly to the eye; of darkness so continuous and intense that the unsettled mind is driven to wonder whether the ordinary course of na- ture will bring back the sun, or whether the world has been cast out of its orbit in the planetary universe into new con- ditions; of cold so intense that any exposure is followed by instant freezing; of monotonous surroundings that threaten with time to unsettle the reason; of de]Drivations wasting the body, and so impairing the mind; of failure in all things, not only of food, fuel, clothing, and shelter, for Arctic service fore- shadows such contingencies, but the bitter failure of plans and aspirations, which brings almost inevitable despair in its train. "Failure of all things, did I say? Nay; failure, be it ad- mitted, of all the physical accessories of conceived and accom- plished action, but not failure in the higher and more essen- tial attributes — not of the mental and moral qualities that are the foundation of fortitude, fidelity, and honor. Failure in this latter respect has been so rare in Arctic service as to justly make such offender a byword and scorn to his fellow- laborers and successors. "Patience, courage, fortitude, foresight, self-reliance, help- fulness — these grand characteristics of developed humanity everywhere, but which we are inclined to claim as special en- 18 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; dowments of the Caucasian race — find ample expression in the detailed history of Arctic exploration. If one seeks to learn to what extent man's determination and effort dominate even the most adverse environment, the simple narratives of Arctic exploration will not fail to furnish striking examples. "There is a widespread impression that all Arctic vo^-ages have been made for practically the same general purpose, whereas polar research has passed through three distinctive phases: First, for strictly commercial purposes in connection with trade to the Indies; second, for advancement of geo- graphical knowledge, and, third, for scientific investigations connected with physical sciences. "Commercial interests dictated the grand series of voyages wherein England, competing with Spain from the period of the ventures of the Cabots to the discoveries of Baffin, sought for a short route to the Indies, across the pole or b^^ a north- west passage. As the futility of efforts by these routes be- came more or less apparent, and as the naval strength of Spain and Portugal ensured their continued monoftol}^ of the growing and valuable trade of the Orient, the attention of England was turned in sheer desperation to the northeast passage as possibly offering a competing route. While this quest proved impracticable for the sailing ships of the six- teenth centur}', yet its prosecution inured to the great finan- cial advantage of England through the establishment thereby of intimate and exclusive commercial relations with the grow- ing and hitherto inaccessible empire of Russia. "The renewal of the true spirit of geographical exploration in the early part of the present centur}^ gave rise to a series of unparalleled voyages in search of the northwest passage, which resulted in the most splendid geographical achieve- ments of the century. These voyages were not splendid alone from the definite results attained, nor from the almost super- human efforts that ensured success, but also from the lofty spirit of endeavor and adventure that inspired the actors. The men who strove therein were lured hj no hope of gain, influenced by no spirit of conquest, but were moved solely OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 19 by the belief that man should know even the most desolate regions of his abiding place, the earth, and the determination that the Anglo-Saxon should do his part. "Franklin said: 'Arctic discovery has been fostered from motives as disinterested as they are enlightened; not from any prospect of immediate benefit, but from a steady view to the acquirement of useful knowledge and the extension of the bounds of science, and its contributions to natural history and science have excited a general interest. The loss of life in the prosecution of these discoveries does not exceed the average deaths in the same population at home.' Parry adds: 'Such enterprises, so disinterested as Well as useful in their object, do honor even when they fail. They cannot but excite the admiration of every liberal mind.' "Of Chancellor's voyage to the northeast Milton said : 'The discovery of Russia by the Northern Ocean * * * might have seemed an enterprise almost heroic if any higher end than excessive love of gain and trafftc had animated the de- sign.' Modern critics except from dispraise the gallant men who in this century have given thjeir lives from no sordid mo- tive, and so merit Milton's full praise. "If not all, certainly some of these arctics have been ani- mated with the noble thought of the poet: 'And this gray spirit yearning in desire To follow knowledge like a shining star Beyond the utmost bound of human thought.' "Suffice it is to say, for geographic research, that it has re- mained for the nineteenth century, with its wealth of indus- trial inventions and store of indomitable energy, to make the northwest and northeast passages, to outline the northern coast of America, and to discover the archipelagoes and islands situated poleward from the three continents of the northern hemisphere. "Hudson's voyage to the Greenland sea, in 1607, was of vast industrial and commercial importance, for his discovery and reports of the incredible number of walruses and whales 20 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; that frequented these seas gave rise to the Spitzbergen whale fishery. "The voyage of Poole for walruses and exploration, in 1610, was followed by the establishment of the whale fishery by Edge in the following year. Enterprising Holland sent its ships in 1613, later bringing in its train whalers from Bremen, France, and other maritime centers. The whale fishery, as the most important of Arctic industries, from which Holland alone drew from the Spitzbergen seas in one hundred and ten years, 1679-1778, products valued at about |90,000,000, merits at least our brief attention. "Grad writes: 'The Dutch sailors saw in Spitzbergen waters great whales in immense numbers, whose catch would be a source of apparently inexhaustible riches. For two cen- turies fleets of whalers frequented its seas. The rush to the gold-beariug placers of California and the mines of Australia afforded in our day the onl}'^ examples at all comparable to the host of men attracted by the northern fisher3^' "Scoresby says: 'In a short time (whaling) proved the most lucrative and the most important branch of national commerce which had ever been offered to man.' This em- phatic statement is devoid of exaggeration in the slightest degree. Scoresby gives, year by year, the products of the Dutch whale fishery in the Arctic seas from 1668 to 1778, which aggregate in value over |100,000,000. When it is known that Scoresby himself caught in thirty voyages fish to the value of 11,000,000, it will not be considered extravagant to place the products of the British whale fishery at |250,000,000. Starbuck gives the product of the American whale fishery from 1801 to 1877 as |332,000,000, making the aggregate of three nations — America, England, and Holland — more than 1680,000,000. How far this amount should be increased on account of seal, walrus, and other strictly Arctic sea game need not be considered, but Norwegian and Kussian fishers have successfully exploited these sources for the past century. "The visit of Liakoff to the New Siberian Islands added eventually a wealth of fossil ivory to Siberian trade that was OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 21 only second in value to the extraordinary stock of furs that grew out of the explorations of the Arctic valley of the Kolima by Kussian hunters. From Hudson's voyage to the bay of his name are attributable the initiation and development of the extremely valuable fur trade of the Hudson Bay Company. Bering failed to outline the definite geographic relations of the contiguous shores of Asia and America, but his voyages directly resulted in the very extensive sea and land fur trade which has proved so profitable through a century and a half. "Altogether it may be assumed that in a little over two centuries the Arctic regions have furnished to the civilized world products aggregating twelve hundred millions of dollars in value. "Nor should it be inferred that commercial ends, scientific knowledge, or the glory of effort crystallized in accomplish- ment have alone turned man to the polar regions. The altru- istic spirit of Egede lavished its wealth of effort in the turn- ing of the Greenland Eskimo to Christianity and civilization, and it enkindled the flame of Christian endeavor that Crantz and the Moravian brethren kept alive during the critical phases of Greenland's history. As Cowper says: 'See Germany send forth Her sons to pour it on the farthest north. Fired with a zeal peculiar, they defy The rage a.nd rigor of a polar sky And plant successfully sweet Sharon's rose On icy plains and in eternal snows.' "In recent days Great Bjitain has had its Duncan, France its Petitot, and the United States its Jackson, whose evangel- izing labors, acting through the more successful method — that of inculcating civilization and helpfulness — are a part of the glory of this time. The residence of Holm among the East Greenland natives and of Peary with the Etah Eskimos have, it is to be hoped, not been fruitless along these lines, and should stimulate human sympath}^ for these dwellers on the northern edge of the world. Every lover of mankind will rejoice that Denmark, with the Christian solicitude that has 22 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; always marked its policy towaTds the Greenlanders, has ex- tended its unprofitable trade relations to East Greenland and established a missionary station at Angmagsalik for the bene- fit of the natives. May we not hope that some religious asso- ciation may likewise plant the seeds of civilization and Chris- tianity among the Cape York Eskimos? "There is neither intent nor time to eulogize worthily the deeds of living Arctic men, nor even to stimulate the eager rising youth who shall outdo all that has gone before; rather would this brief word add a leaf of laurel to the crowned dead whose Arctic fame forms part of each nation's historic heritage — hallowed for the past, priceless for the present, indispensa- ble for successful futurity, "Shall I name the soldiers or sailors, the explorers or sci- entists, the trader or the whaler? Rather all, since science knows neither station nor profession, neither dialect nor na- tionality. "In the roll-call of the dead, Austria-Hungary answers with Weyprecht, whose greatest fame will ever be associated with the establishment of the international polar stations. "Denmark follows, equally at home in American, Asiatic, or European waters, through Munk and Hamke, Jan Mayen and Vitus Bering. "Then France with De la Croyere, Pages, Blosseville, Fabre, Gaimard, Marmier, Martins, and Bellot, the last a name ever grateful to English ears. "Germany has generously loaned her talent to insure suc- cess wherever sound and important scientific work is to be done. Baer, Bessell, Petermann, and Steller are worthy suc- cessors to Frederick Martens, of the seventeenth century — men and work of which any nation may be proud. "Holland, in Barents, Na}^, Tetgales, Bip, and Heemskerck, presents a roll of honor well in keeping with the notable work of the thousands of Dutch whalers that exploited the Spitz- bergen seas. "The Italian contingent, from the Zeni of the fourteenth OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 23 century through the Cabots to Bove of our own day, maintain here, as elsewhere, their geographic standing. "Norwegian Othere set in the ninth century the pioneer standard of Arctic exploration, w^hich later, combined with the labor of exploiting the northern seas, has Mattilas, Carl- sen, Tobiesen, and a score of others as worthy successors. "Russia finds the Arctic problem a domestic question, and from the time of Peter the Great to to-day has done an amount of work not generally appreciated or known. The Laptieffs and Deshneff, Tchirikof, and Liakoff, Anjou and Wrangell, Kotzebue and Liltke, Pachtussof, Krusenstern and Zivolka, stand forth in the annals of the world. "In Iledenstrom and Torrell, Sweden finds examples that have borne such abundant fruit in the late active labors of her enthusiastic sons. "Once it was said that the almighty- dollar was the object and end of American endeavor, but when American treasure- not by the millions but hj the billions — was poured out and lives by the hundreds of thousands were joj^fully given for an idea, the men of the new world rose to a higher place in Euroi)ean estimation. "A fellow-townsman of mine was a petty officer under Sir John Franklin, and among the hundreds engaged in the Franklin search none had a more altruistic and generous spirit than the American Elisha Kent Kane. Hayes left no danger undared to reach his 'Open Polar Sea,' Rodgers dared all, in Arctic ice as in the War for the Union. De Long and Ambler knew how to die, but not how to desert a helpless comrade. Hall followed the Arctic sledge to his very death. Lock- w^ood, whose personal toil and suffering accomplished the farthest north and set the goal beyond which some more for- tunate rival will soon pass, met with fortitude and sweetness the harsh fate which debarred the world from placing its laurel wreath save on his grave. "I can scarcely say aught of British effort in a field that has been peculiarly England's for the past three centuries. And how, among her innumerable Arctic dead, shall I single 24 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; out representatives, worthy examplers of British courage and effort? Like Macbeth's kings, the line stretches out to crack of doom. ''Great were the daring navigators of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries — Chancellor and Davis and Frobisher, Hudson and Wajmouth, B^dot and Baffin; but were they greater than in their way were Cook, Hearne, and Mackenzie in the eighteenth? "And when we come to their worthj^ compeers of this cen- tury, there is barel}' room for the names of these daring spirits. Here is Britain's unequaled roll: "Austin, Back, Beeche}^, Buchan, Clavering, Collinson, Cro- zier, Forsyth, Goodsir, Inglefield, Kellett, Kennedy, Lefro}^, Lyon, McClure, Maguire, Mecham, Moore, the immortal Nel- son, Osborn, Penny, Pim, Rae, Richardson, James C. Boss, John Ross, Sabine, Saunders, Scoresby, father and son; Simp- son, and Stewart. "Close communion in spirit and thought with their record- ed labors for many years has made for me manj^ friends among the great Arctic dead, and so particularly segregates in my mind, from this alphabetical list, the twin Arctic com- peers, Franklin and Parry, as facile princeps in this great com- pany. "But the histor}' of these men is inextricably interwoven with the wonderful development of the British Empire, and their deeds forever abide to the glory of the English-speaking race. "And of the Arctic dead of Europe, Asia, and America, from the earliest Othere of Norway and the Zeni of Italy to the latest fallen in Sweden, Nordenskiold the younger, prom- ising son of his distinguished father, there may well be quoted the words of an American soldier: 'On Fame's eternal camping ground Their silent tents are spread, And Glory guards with solemn round The bivouac of the dead.' OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 25 "8torm-stayed and ice-beset no longer, their dust awaits the change and fate ordained by God's eternal laws. ^'The end they sought, the work they wrought, the courage and devotion they showed, should stand as ideals and patterns for the men of the future in the accomplishment of the great Arctic work which it shall be their good fortune to undertake. "But now we look again to England to retake its former place in Arctic research. Shall we look in vain? I believe not. "Let her remember that the beginning of the end will have come for the ever-extending and ever-developing British power when this insular people would ever consent, for any sum in pounds and pence, that the Arctic relics of Greenwich should be scattered, or that there should ever be removed from West- minster Abbey, rich with its clustering memories and gath- ered treasures of a thousand years, the tribute of genius to heroism, of England's poet laureate to its Arctic dead. "Well has it been for Britain that hundreds of its youth have imbibed together learning and patriotism, love of the beautiful and admiration for glorj^, while translating into classic verse these immortal words : 'Not here. The white north has thy bones, and thou, Heroic sailor soul, Art passing on thine happier voyage now Towards no earthly pole.' " Contrary to popular belief, the LOSS OF LIFE IN ARCTIC RESEARCH has been remarkably small. Of all the men engaged in the search for Franklin, as well as in Arctic explorations since then, less than two per cent died through such service, and in the more recent voyages the casualties have not equalled those ordinarily occurring among the ships on naval duty in other regions of the globe. Says Lieutenant Maury: "The losses by wreckage around the British Isles during a single year ex- ceeded the aggregate of all those within the history of Arctic exploration." 26 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Experience lias also demonstrated that the health of men when properl}^ provisioned and equipped is even better north of the Arctic Circle than in lower latitudes. These conditions met, in that region is made the best blood in the world, as pure and vigorous as the air which there purifies and en- livens it. The fact that PRIVATE ENTERPRISE has done so much during the past four hundred years toward acquiring a scientific knowdedge of the polar regions is a hope- ful indication of the spirit of pure benevolence in man, the exercise of which has already in the aggregate led to practical results of great value. A cursory glance at the history of some of the Arctic expeditions will show this. Beginning with Sebastian Cabot, in 1553, who will now venture to ques- tion the utility of the private and governmental expense of sending him in search of a passage which he did not find? For he found something better — he found land. Had Frobish- er's voyages a quarter of a century later been undertaken w^itli a spirit of exploration and scientific research, instead of a desire for gold, his fifteen years spent in pleading with the nobility of England for funds would not have gone for naught. Greed said nothing was as valuable as gold, and when that was not to be found, all else failed. The true spirit of ex- ploration would at that time have discovered the whale and seal fisheries of Baffin's Ba}^, and even the waters of Hudson's Bay. Davis, however, under the generous patronage of his friend Sanderson, in 1585, skirted the west coast of Greenland, and endeavored to lighten expenses by fishing. The desire for gain was made of secondary importance. Russia, too, has supplied her share of human benefactors; for Schalaroff, in 1758, built a vessel at his own expense and sought to sail along the north coast of Siberia, and Wrangell, although making his journeys with but four or five white companions as the accredited representative of the Naval Department, reduced expenses by the employment of native help. Ross, after hav- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 27 ing ^pent |15,000 of his own, obtained the generous patronage of Felix Booth, by whom he was sent, in 1829, on the voyage which resulted, two years later, in the DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE, whereby the navigation of the seas and the surveying of all northern lands is rendered more certain. Moreover, this voy- age led to the introduction of steam-power into Arctic naviga- tion. Back's famous and highl}^ satisfactory exjDedition was made possible by means of a public subscription of |20,O00 and an addition of |10,000 by the Government. A quarter of a century later much of the funds raised in conducting the search for Franklin was raised by private subscriptions. From these, Inglefield, in 1852, was equipped not only by means of contributions in money, but by individual donations of tents, sledges, traveling apparatus, and countless other articles. Kane, in 1853, was "backed" by Henry Grinnell and George Peabody, while various scientific societies also contributed liberally in money and articles of equipment. Hayes, after persistent efforts during five years, succeeded in organizing his expedition in 1860. He first presented his cause before the American Geographical Society and then before the American Association for the Advancement of Science. The association at once appointed a committee of sixteen to assist him in the furtherance of his plans. Eventually FOUR HUNDRED BUSINESS MEN AND FIRMS in Albany, Boston, New York and Philadelphia subscribed liberally to the enterprise and the Smithsonian Institution supplied the necessary scientific instruments. Hayes also ap- plied toward the expenses of the expedition the funds secured by lecturing. Hall, the son of a blacksmith, having first di- vulged his plans to a few intimate friends, received encour- agement from United States Senator Chase, Governor Den- nison and others, while individuals and societies made response in additional funds and equipment. Free transportation was also granted his expedition by one 28 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; of the steamship lines. In 1869 the organizers of the Second German Expedition issued an appeal for funds and donations "to the towns of the fatherland," and in reply received the hearty co-operation of their countrymen. The King of Prussia took a personal interest in the suc- cess of the enterprise in a manner indicative of a great mind and a kind heart. The Austro-Hungarian Expedition, in 1872, was sent out largely at the expense of Count Wilczek. Its discovery of Franz-Josef Land in the following year gave an important vantage-ground to future explorers of the Arctic Ocean. KSchwatka, in 1878, was supplied with provisions and equipment from private sources, and was given free transpor- tation by Messrs. Morrison and Brown. In the same year the "Vega," with twenty men. Professor Nordenskiold in charge, was equipped at an expense to the state of only |9,500, the remainder being made up by individual contributions. De Long, in 1879, undertook his ill-starred expedition almost entirely through the liberality of James Gordon Bennett. The Lady Franklin Bay Expedition of 1881-4, Lieutenant Greely commanding, although a "Government enterprise," was fitted out at an expense of only |25,000, three-fourths of which went to charter the vessel, and less than |(),000 for supplies for a party of twenty-five men. Had the provisions alone been supplemented by private donations and deposited at Cape Sabine and other desirable points, on the outward voyage, the awful tragedy at Camp Clay would not have occurred. Dr. Nansen's first crossing of Greenland, in 1888, was a suc- cessful private undertaking. Mr. August Gehiel became his financial "backer," while the "Committee of Students' Union" and large numbers of his countrymen added liberally to the expeditionar}^ fund. Nansen's great success in this led him to undertake, in 1893, the great voyage the outcome of w^hich the whole world awaits with intense interest. Maj no future historian have to record that the brave voyagers of the "Fram" failed for lack of supplies, or for lack of assistance on the part of a w^orld reveling in luxury while men stand ready and willing to carry that assistance at any opportune moment. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 29 All of Pear^-'s expeditions were private ventures, the funds for the same being raised from lecturing, newspaper correspond- ence and other individual sources. Elsewhere, in our reference to Lieutenant Pearj^'s Expedi- tion, will be found a concise statement of views which we have long entertained. In the preparation of this volume the author has not done so without careful studj^ and a certain amount of more val- uable experience. Both have enabled him to select and ar- range the material so as to save the reader a great expense both of time and money were he to attempt to inform himself concerning North Polar research by the purchase of many expensive books dealing almost exclusively^ with separate undertakings. So far as known to the writer, no other at- tempt has ever been made to present a popular, up-to-date narrative of Arctic toil, and no pains have been spared to make it replete with suggestions for the man of learning as well as full of information and entertainment for the masses. Moreover, its purpose, ITS MISSION. is to assist in prosecuting future exjDloration — as will be learned by reference to the plans stated toward the close of the volume. Should its, sale not even equal by a fourth that of some other books of less value and durability, and which (some of them not unlaudably) have been published solely for the purpose of private gain, we shall be enabled to carry out our plans unhampered for want of funds — with an abund- ance of food, clothing, equipment, etc. Men engaged in Arctic service gain but. little reward in dollars and dimes — thej are certainly entitled to a fair share of bodily comfort, and the expedition that cannot reasonably provide for this should not venture poleward — be it either north or south. Had some of the past "failures" occurred before starting, how different would be the record of results! Men are now agreed that the return voyage should be as carefully provided for as the outward trip. The liberal patronage of our friends and read- 30 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ers not only in directly extending the circulation of this book, but also in many incidental ways, will help to insure such a result. In the final outcome, with "a long pull, a strong pull, and a pulj all together," each individual may have the satisfac- tion of having done something for the common good and in rendering success more certain. Already, in the production of these pages — the study and exploration directly represented — have three of the best years of the author's life found expression, for the most part in recording the work of others, yet not without fond hopes in the future and an unshaken confidence in the intelligence and patriotism of the American people in promoting every cause worthy of man's best efforts. Thanking numerous friends and well-wishers, among whom are some of the ablest minds of our great commonwealth, for their generous encouragement and hearty co-operation, the author bespeaks for the cause a like response from many thousands. In due time we trust to be able to return all favors in substantial and enduring ways. To Professor T. C. Chamberlin, formerly president of Mad- ison University, but now head professor of geology, University of Chicago, thanks are especially due for numerous favors, not the least of which are valuable suggestions relating to the arrangement of portions of our manuscript and for his endur- ing interest in the aims and objects proposed. To Mr. H. G. Bryant, commander of the Peary Auxiliary Expedition of 1894; Professor William Libbey of Princeton College; Mr. II. L. Bridgman, Managing Editor of the Brook- lyn Standard Union; Messrs. F. H. Hild, B. M. Smith, David Oliphant, W. B. Conkey, W. J. Eoot, John Sebastian, Addison C. Thomas, George H. Benedict, Hon. William A. Vincent, H. 11. Rassweiler, Samuel E. Knecht, Hon. George R. Peck, George T. Nicholson, Professors W. II. Holmes, E. B. Garriott, and E. E. Barnard, the Members of The Chicago Academy of Sciences, and others of Chicago; Mrs. N. C. Knickerbocker, Preceptress of Northwestern College, the late James L. Nichols, Esq., and Messrs. Royce and Scott, Naperville, 111. ; Messrs. Patrick and OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 31 Liitlie, Des Moines; Mr. E. F. Burnett, New York; Major H. C. Bate, Nashville; Major T. J. Anderson, Topeka; Mr. J. B. Mar- burj, Baltimore, and to General A. W. Greely, Washington, we feel specially obligated for their courteous interest at all times. TrsoN s CBEW slGHTI^a the storca vvhallk whicu rescued them off eabeauoh.' 32 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER II. EARLY NORSE. ENGLISH AND DUTCH VOYAGES. The wind goetli toward the south, and turneth about unto the north; it wliirletli about continually, and the wind returneth again according to his circuits. — Ecclesiastes 1, 6. He stretcheth out the north over the empty place, and hangeth the earth upon nothing. — Job xxvi, 7. Thus, it may be conjectured, the man of much wisdom and the man of patience each spoke of the same North Pohir regions; and, although often baffled, and perishing in the attempt, later generations of men have undauntedh' perse- vered in an ever-enlarging interpretation of the words of in- spiration. FASCINATING INDEED is the story, and, though oft told, is ever fresh, with the con- cluding chapters increasing in interest, drawing the reader with siren-like power, irresistibly onward. Fortunately, one is not compelled to flee to mythological and traditional periods, to any considerable extent, for a be- ginning. The seal of authenticity appears to have been well stamped upon all Arctic matters from the first. True, that the ancient Greeks considered Scantlinavia an island or group of islands; that Pytheas of Marseilles, sailing in 330 B. C. to the Northern Sea, arrived at an island which he called Thule, from his native telos, meaning goal, but by which term is disputable whether he meant Iceland or one of the Shet- lands. The difference, however, is of little moment, since it is clear that he had touched upon Arctic conditions. "Here," he says, "the sun never descends (sets) below the hori- zon for a certain number of days during the summer solstice." Had he remained there during the winter he would doubt- >y#^yf •."• (1.) The Barren Lands, August 17, 1826-Kendall. (2.) " Hecla" and "GU-iper" Cutting into Winte*Quarters, September 20, 1819— Lt. Beechey. (3.) "Hecla" and "Griper" July 4, 1819— Beechey. (4.) Iceberg, Baffin's Bay, July, 1819. (5.) "Hecla" and "Griper," September 20, 1819— Lt. Hoppner. (6.) Burnet Inlet, Barrow's Strait— Beechey. (7.) "Hecla" and "Griper" in Winter Harbor, 1819-20— Beecliev. (See Chapter V.) j^ff nf^Sr^^^ '" " " ^ ' 'sm«»**lt*^e"*^ * iir'rrniiiiiifirii" limnniMH^ ;;;mM6''' (1.) "Hecla" and "(iiiper. ' AhitlisI 17-1!:H, ls-20— Lt. Hoppnor. (2.) Mn^kBull, Mel- villeisland— Beechey. (3.) Eskimos ol the "■Kiver Clyde" or Inlet. West Coast of Haffin's Bay— Beecliey and Hoppner. (4.) "Fury" and "Hecla" at Ig-loo-Lilc, Winter, 18'^2~23— Lyon. (?.) Canoe of Savage Islands, Hudson's Strait— Lyon. (6.) Cutting into Winter Island, October, 1821— Lyon. (See Chapters V. and VllL) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 33 less have also added that for a like number of days during the winter solstice the sun never ascends (rises) above the horizon. Following the custom of jealous stay-at-home critics, Polybius and Strabo declare his accounts to be "absurd" and incredible. In his "absurdity" lies the authenticity of his discoveries and observations to more modern intelligence. That he possessed the true spirit of discovery and observation is apparent and it appears that he was the first to determine the latitude of a place from the sun's shadow and the first to suspect that the tides are influenced by the moon. Five hundred years later, or about the middle of the eighth century, we find THE BOLD NORSEMEN pushing westward from the densely-populated shores of Scan- dinavia and effecting permanent settlements on the Faroe, Shetland, and Orkney Islands. Thence again westward and northward to Iceland, hanging upon the Arctic Circle, which they settled permanently in A. D. 874. Whence, less than three hundred miles bej^ond, and but two years later, they accidentally discovered Greenland, the importance of which, however, did not appear till its re-discovery in 983 by Eric the Eed and its colonization two years later. Iceland, we learn, was able to maintain her independence for four centuries — A. D. 928-1387 — or until compelled to sub- mit to the King of Norway and Denmark. Greenland also "prospered" for several centuries, and main- tained her bishops from A. D. 1121 to 1409. The black death, which in three years, 1348-51, sw^ept away from Europe twen- ty-five millions of her population, also decimated Iceland and Greenland and caused them to decline politically and com- mercially. With the removal of the last bishop of Greenland probably went the annalist of the Colony, as, for the next two hundred years, there is no written record. Sixty-eight years after the disappearance of the last bishop of Greenland, and fifteen years before the discovery of the southern portion of North America by Columbus, we find the 34 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; following confirmation, written by himself, that the great Genoese was himself an Arctic voyager. He says: "In 1477 I navigated one hnndred leagues beyond Thule." Five centuries before the immortal Christopher thus vis- ited Iceland, the bold Biarne Iler-julf-son, in search of his father, had set sail from Iceland for Greenland. Driven by storm, he was carried from his course and did not touch upon Greenland until after the comparativel}^ greener shores of Labrador or Newfoundland had been accidentally discovered. Fourteen years later, that is in A. D. 1000, Lief Ericson, a son of Eric the Ked, with thirty-five men sailed along the coast of Labrador southward to a pleasant country abounding in grapes and called by them Vinland. Here the ensuing winter was spent. Two years later Thorwald, another son of Eric the Ked, visited the place and discovered Cape Cod. Thence- forward Vinland was extensively colonized from Greenland and visited by the Norsemen. Unfortunately^, they were fiercely attacked by the natives, and further efforts at colo- nization were abandoned. At the head of this colony was Karlsefne. To him and to the beautiful and brave Gudrid was born a son, Snorri, the first child born in America to European parents. To quote: "The boy was named Snorri, and in his noble manhood founded one of the most distin- guished families of Iceland, then the abode of princely Scan- dinavians, with their retinue of armed followers." This was evidently in Ehode Island, for, in an old record of the Vinland colony, it is stated that "On the shortest day the sun remained nine hours above the horizon." From this astronomical fact it appears that the colony was located between 41° and 42° north latitude, which corresponds with the situation of Rhode Island. Moreover, the old stone tower at Newport, Ehode Island, and the inscription upon Dighton Rock, on the bank of the Taunton River, are man- ifestly memorials of these hardy people. We have already seen that, fifteen years after the visit of Columbus to Iceland, he discovered the Bahama Islands, thus OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 35 inciting the English and French to rival the Spanish in fur- ther discoveries. The search for a NORTHWEST PASSAGE. by the Cabots, leading to the re-discovery of Newfoundland and Labrador in 1497-8 may be said to be the first in a long series of voyages undertaken for the purpose of revealing the ice-imprisoned secrets of the Arctic world. In a subsequent voyage, undertaken in 1517, Sebastian Cabot explored the region now known as Hudson's Bay, naming several places. In this voj^age he passed a degree beyond the Arctic Circle (G6° 30') attaining 67° 30'. The history of this great man during all these years is one of varying success and disappointment and we see him now in the service of England, now of Spain. Meanwhile, ignorant of the vast extent or configuration of the northern European and Asiatic continents, he had become imbued with the idea of reaching India by a NORTHEAST PASSAGE, and accordingly in May, 1553, under his own and Royal Eng- lish patronage, three vessels set sail, one of which, becoming separated from her consorts, returned to England before the close of the year. Of the other two, the one under command of Eichard Chancellor reached the mouth of the Dwina River, whence Chancellor, starting from the monastery of St. Nich- olas, near the present site of Archangel, made a successful overland journey to Moscow, then the residence of Ivan IV., or Vasilievitch II., "the Terrible," czar and autocrat of all the Russians, with whom he opened very friendly and mutu- ally advantageous commercial relations between England and Russia. The third vessel, under command of Sir Hugh Willoughby, became hemmed in by the ice at the mouth of the Dwina River, and all on board were found frozen to death the fol- lowing season by some Lapland fishermen. That these men sacrificed themselves through ignorance and inexperience is 36 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; apparent from the fact that there was sufficient moss and turf and animal-life on shore to have amply sustained them had they but put forth efforts in that direction. Sir Hugh's vessel, however, had penetrated as far as Nova Zembla, which, as will be seen by reference to the map, lies just north of the dividing line between Russia and Siberia. Chancellor again, in 1554, with four vessels, made a suc- cessful voyage to the monastery of St. Nicholas, but, upon returning, was storm-harassed and three of his ships were wrecked, the brave navigator himself perishing in the angry sea, while the inexperienced landsman, one of the Russian ambassadors, whose life he was endeavoring to save, escaped. Two years later, Stephen Burrough, pilot to Chancellor, was sent to make further search for the northeast passage and the mouth of the Obi. He reached the strait between Nova Zembla and Vaigat's Island, now known as Kara Gate, or Strait, but was driven back by the ice and so returned to England. At this time it was thought that the promontory forming the eastern cape of the Gulf of Obi was the northeastern corner of Asia and that accordingly Nova Zembla and Kara Strait were remote about 400 miles from the eastern shore of Asia. The distance, however, is about 2,700 nautical or 3,100 statute miles, extending through 130° of longitude, more than three-fourths of which lie above the 70th degree, north latitude. Efforts to solve the problem of a northeast passage were now abiindoned for nearly a third of a century and NEW VOYAGES TO THE NORTHWEST followed the publication of Sir Humphrey Gilbert's "Discourse to Prove a Passage by the Northwest to Cathaia" in 1576, the first of the three voyages being undertaken the same year by Frobisher, who had spent fifteen years pleading with the mer- chants and nobility of England to provide the necessary funds. With three small barks, the largest of not over thirty-five tons burden, he set sail from London, soon losing the smallest OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 37 vessel, which was sunk in a storm with all on board. The sec- ond ship returned to England, Frobisher continuing on alone till at last he reached the coasts of Greenland and Labrador. After coasting among the Savage and Eesolution Islands for some time, he went ashore on the mainland called by him "Meta Incognita," i. e., the "Unknown Boundary," now the southern peninsula of Baffin Land, and established friendly relations with the Eskimos of the region. He attained C3° north latitude and entered the strait which he named in his own honor. Keturning to England with a quantity of SUPPOSED GOLD ORE. he soon enlisted the avarice of his countrj^men in a second enterprise, and the following year. May, 1577, set sail in three goodly-sized vessels. Retarded by the ice at the entrance of Frobisher Strait, he took aboard 20.0 tons of the lustrous stones and put about for England. Public avarice the next year equipped another expedition, a fleet of fifteen vessels being placed under Frobisher's com- mand. With these he, for a third and last time, encountered the ice of the Meta Incognita, one of his largest vessels being crushed by an iceberg at the entrance of the strait, and forty lives lost, while the entire fleet was damaged by the irresisti- ble ice-floe. These mishaps caused the abandonment of the project to establish a MILITARY COLONY of 100 picked men among the blubber-fed natives of this gold- strewn region, and our fortune-seekers all returned to Eng- land, carrying with them for 3,000 miles 500 tons more of the "precious ore," all of which was now found to be but "worth- less stone." Ten years later, the greatly chagrined Frobisher redeemed his name from a probably obloquy by his signal service in the contest with the Spanish Armada, in 1588. Once more was the long-coveted northwest passage sought for, this time from the Pacific side. Having sailed 38 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; through the Straits of Magellan on his voyage round the world, SIR FRANCIS DRAKE turned northward, plundering the coasts of Chili and Peru en voyage, hoping to discover the looked-for passage, sailed to latitude 48° north, or to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, now on the northwestern boundary of the United States. Failing in the realization of his hopes, he proceeded southward to the present location of San Francisco, named the country New Albion, and returned to England in 1580 by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, thus being the first Englishman to cir- cumuaviagte the globe. Next on the list of Arctic heroes, comes Davis, who, in 1585, with two vessels christened the "Sunshine" and "Moonshine," of fifty and thirty-five tons respectively, sailed to Greenland, which he very appropriately called the LAND OP DESOLATION. On August 6th he arrived at a point called Sukkertoppen, sail- ing whence farther northwest to latitude 66° 40' he found the land free from "the pesters of ice, and ankered in a very fair rode." After exploring the region of Cumberland Sound and the entrance to Frobisher and Hudson's Straits he returned to England. He thought that he had discovered the entrance to a sea communicating with the Pacific Ocean. Curiously enough, "to cheer and recreate the spirits of the natives," Davis took with him on this expedition a BAND OF MUSIC, the fame of which spread far and wide among the Eskimos, who in their kyacks surrounded the vessels listening to the strains of never-before-heard music and exchanged valuable furs for glass beads and other trinkets. Well does the writer recollect, having been commissioned by Lieutenant Peary to obtain walrus meat from the Eskimos at Noxami, on Inglefield Gulf, in the spring of 1894, to have OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 39 been questioned by these same people concerning "the kind of music had in America." Giving in explanation, by gesture and voice, a decidedly barbarous imitation of a "string band," ever thereafter and wherever met, these FUN-LOVING CREATURES would demand a re-performance of "Rup-pe, tup, tup, rup-pe tup tup, rup-pe tup, tup, tup, tup," "John Brown's Body," etc. These, at any rate, were the favorite "airs" of old Kio-gwee-toh, "mine host" at Nox-am-i and pretended nol-li-gock-soak, or chief of the tribe. Davis' second voyage, undertaken in 1586, with two more vessels, the "Mermaid" and "North Star," resulted in the dis- covery of the strait which bears his name. Reaching Green- land, in latitude 64°, he sent two vessels northward on the east coast while he proceeded along the west coast as far as 69°, The ice was unusually massive and one field • required thirteen days to -pass. The cold winds froze the ropes and sails to such an extent that the sailors were led to complain that "by his boldness he might cause their widows and father- less children to give him bitter curses." ikfter making additional exploration of the Cumberland Sound region and engaging in a CONFLICT WITH THE ESKIMOS, during which three of his men were slain and two wounded, he returned to England. Davis, writing to a friend, stated that he had reduced the discovery of a northwest passage almost to a certainty. His third voyage, in 1587, was prosecuted as far north as Sander- son's Hope, in latitude 72° 12'. This point was within a half degree of Upernavik and was so called in honor of his chief patron. The vessels of the expedition were four in number and fitted out with the express condition that expenses were to be lightened by stopping to fish wherever practicable. Two 40 THE &EARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; of the ships were therefore detailed for this purpose upon arriving off Greenland. The geographical results of the expedition were ver}^ im- portant. Once more the question of a northeast passage wa» pro- pounded, this time by the Dutch. In 1594 a number of the leading merchants of Ilolland fitted out three vessels under command of Cornelizoon, Ysbrantzoou and Barents. Pre- viously they had established trading-posts at Kola, in Lap- land, and at Archangel, in liussia. These would afford bases of supplies in case of retreat. Owing to the failure of the English to pass Kara Strait the^^ determined to try also the passage north of Nova Zembla. This was partly due to the suggestions of Peter Plaucius, a distinguished theologian, astronomer, and nautical adept of the day. Arriving at Nova Zembla, the vessels parted compan}^ one, under Barents, keep- ing west of the island, proceeded north, while the other two continued east and south until they arrived at the "Wind-hole," or Yaigat's Strait, the southernmost portion of Kara Strait, formed by a narrow but dangerous lane of water separating Yaigat's Island from the mainland. This, with great difficulty, they passed and thereupon entered with UTMOST DELIGHT a vast expanse of blue open sea. The land on their right receding rapidly to the southeast, they supposed themselves off the northeast extremity of Asia and not over 400 miles from Canton, China. Deluded men! The}^ had but entered Kara Gulf, and one-third the circumference of the globe — the entire north coast of Siberia — lay yet before them to Bering Strait, which a century and a half of almost superhuman effort would be required to reveal. In their jo}^, and FULL OF PATRIOTIC ENTHUSIASM, they turned homeward, meeting with Barents on the way, the old ice-master being not a little chagrined at not being able to share in the exultant demonstrations of his companion officers. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 41 He had, however, been quite as successful, for, having rounded Cape Nassau, Nova Zembhi, on the 10th of July, he fought his way through the perilous ice to the Orange Islands, to the north of Nova Zembla, in latitude 77° early in August. The determinations of latitude made by him were very pre- cise for those days. The following year, 1595, witnessed the departure of a fleet of six vessels laden with WARES FOR THE EASTERN MARKET, a 3'acht accompanying as far as Kara Strait that tidings might be brought home announcing the successful arrival of the fleet in the recently-discovered "sea." But, "The best laid schemes o' mice and men Gang aft a-gley, And lea'e us nought but grief and pain For promised joy." Massive ice rendered Vaigat's Strait impassable and the ex- pedition dejectedly returned home. In command was James \'an Ileemskerke, with Barents as pilot. Again, the next year, 159G, was a third expedition of two vessels sent out, Heems- kerke commanding one, while Barents once more acted as pilot. Passing the Shetland and Faroe Islands, they were met by the drifting ice on June 5th, but on the 11th made land, which they named BEAR ISLAND. because there they had killed a bear. On this voyage they killed two more of them, measuring, the one twelve feet, the other thirteen feet, in length, and weighing probably not less than 1,800 pounds each — the largest on record. Continuing northward, they on the 19th DISCOVERED SPITZBERGEN, supposing, however, it to be a part of Greenland. Of this island they explored a considerable of the west coast till stopped by the ice, whereupon they returned to Bear Island. Here the vessels separated, Heemskerke and Barents push- 42 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ing on through the ice to the west coast of Nova Zembla, then known as Willoughby's Island, where they arrived July 16th. Cape Nassau was doubled on August 6th and, some days later, the Orange Islands. Attaining the same latitude as made by Barents on his first voyage, the expedition was com- pelled, by reason of ice, to retreat southward along the east coast of Nova Zembla, where they finally became ICE-LOCKED in a small harbor, latitude 75° 43'. Says De Veer, mate of the vessel and historian of the voyage: "The cakes of ice began to pile up around the ship on all sides, and pressed against it so closely that it commenced to crack and give way, and it seemed as if the vessel would break into a thousand pieces; and wdien the ice moved it pushed and raised the ship. as if some huge machine were elevating it in the air." This PERILOUS SITUATION compelled them to effect a landing and provide winter-quar- ters on shore. The ocean currents are not always cruel, for here they had deposited an abundance of drift-wood, doubt- less brought from Siberia. More of this was discovered float- ing on a stream about nine miles in the interior, and alto- gether the seventeen men were able to provide for them- selves a WARM LOG CABIN , and ah abundance of firewood. To the top of the strmcture was erected a chimney, while near the central fireplace was reserved a place for a sick comrade. Around the walls were arranged their bunks and from a large cask they took frequent baths. Their food consisted of provisions transported from the ship. Although they had seen tra.cks of the bear and the saiga, a species of the antelope, they do not appear to have secured any of these animals for their larder. On the 23d of OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 43 BARENTS' HOUSE, NOVA ZEMBLA. (Exterior View.) BARENTS' HOUSE, NOVA ZEMBLA. (Inteiiur View.) 44 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; September, a month or more before the disappearance of the sun, THE CARPENTER DIED, being the first to succumb "to the rigors of the climate." The ground was frozen so hard at this time that they "could not dig a grave" and were compelled to bury him in the cleft of a rock. De Veer writes: "We look pitifullj^ one upon the other, being in great fear that if the extremity of cold grew to be more and more we should all die there of cold, for that what fire soever we made, would not warm us." Their cabin was soon covered with snow several feet deep and they were obliged to tunnel their way out. During a wind storm the fire refused to burn for four days and the ice formed two inches in thickness upon their bunks, while their clothes were covered with frost. BEARS AND POXES, . too, annoyed them, threatening to tear the roof from the house. The foxes learned to descend the inside of the chimney and several were trapped, their flesh being used for food. Several bears also were shot and the furs of these and of the foxes afforded very acceptable clothing. In fact no other material could have been so servicable. Through ignorance and prejudice they failed to use the wholesome bear's meat and consequently suffered from attacks of scurvy. Early in December, during a storm which blew violently and with intense cold from the northeast, they made a rousing fire of coal brought from the vessel. Having closed every crevice — even the chimney — to retain the heat, they were soon seized with dizziness and must have suffocated had not one succeeded in opening the door and another the chimney. On January 5, 1597, the eve of "Twelfth Night," long cele- brated throughout Europe, they MADE MERRY. as says De Veer: "We prayed our Master that we might be OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 45 merry, and said that we were content to spend some of the wine that night which we had spared, and which was our share (half a pint) eveiw second day, and whereof for certain days we had not drunlv. And so that night we made merry, and drew h)ts for king. And thereof we had two pounds of meal, whereof we made pancakes with oil, and every man had a white biscuit whjch we sopt in the wine. And so sup- posing that we were in our own country, and amongst our friends, it comfDrted us as well as if we had made a great bancjuet in our own house. And we also made trinkets, and our gunner was made king of Novaya Zemlya, which is at least 800 miles long, and lyeth between two seas." On Jan- uary 24th the SUN REAPPEARED and there was accordingly bustle and stir in the little en- campment. However, the death of one of their number on the same da^- caused them sadness. Fine weather came with the 2Stli and they played a game of ball in the open air. Early in March the sea ice began to move. On the 15th of April they inspected the ship and found it in better condition than was anticipated. On May 20th, however, the VESSEL WAS ABANDONED and by the middle of June they took leave of their late resi- dence, trusting themselves to the two ship's boats, and in a short time rowed to Orange Island. Before starting, Barents enclosed a record of their misfortune in a gun barrel and fastened it to the chimney of the house. When but four days out their frail crafts were caught be- tween enormous pans of ice and, abandoning all hope of saving either boat or -life, they took leave of each other. De Veer, how- ever, grasping a strong rope at one end, sprang from pan to pan until he had reached a very large one on which they finally succeeded in getting first the sick, then the provisions and last of all, the boats. Here, on the 20th of June, while drifting northward with 46 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the ice, on the west coast of Nova Zeiiibhi, the brave and wortliy BARENTS DIED, together with one of the sailors, Nicholas Andrieu. The death <)f Barents, although apparently not unexpected to himself, was so to his men. His remains were committed to the sea. "The death of William Barents," says De Veer, '^made us all feel \evY sad, seeing that he was our principal guide and pilot, and one in whom we had every confidence. But we could not resist the will of (U>d, and this thought made us calm." Proceeding in their greatly injured boats they kept them from sinking with the utmost difficulty. Upon reaching Cape Nassau, in hauling the larger boat ashore, she was upset and they lost nearly all their ])rovisions. Again putting to sea on July IDtli, they arrived at the southern point of the island on Jul}^ 28tli. Shortly afterwards the boats became sepa- rated in a fog and did not again meet till their arrival at the entrance to the White Sea. During this interval of separa- tion their stock of provisions was generously increased by the Kussian fishermen whom they occasionally met, and thus, by strict self-denial, they were enabled to reach Cape Kanine. They had been out 104 dajB since leaving their winter quar- ters. Fortunately they were here picked up by the other ves- sel from which the}- had been separated thirteen months pre- vious, and conveyed thence to Kola, where Ryp, the commander of the vessel, had first been informed of the arrival of the ship- wrecks at Cai^e Kanine. From this point the thirteen sur- vivors were conveyed by the same vessel to Amsterdam, where the}^ were received with great demonstration and entertained at the expense of the city till they received the money due them. Heemskerke was slain in a naval battle with the Span- iards ten j'ears later. In 1602 the English resumed the search for the northwest passage. The expedition safely reached the entrance to Hud- son's Baj^, but being driven back through the strait by a violent OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 47 storiu, the coiiiiuaiKler, Captain Weymouth, returned to Eng- land without achieving further distinction. The next 3^ear the English, under the patronage of "the worshipful Francis Cherie," sent a small vessel, the "God- speed," to the Arctic Ocean on a voj-age of discovery. On the voyage northward the expedition disposed of a cargo of goods at Kola, the Dutch trading station in Lapland, and then pro- ceeded to Bear Island, the name of which was changed to Cherry Island. The latitude was determined to be 74° 30'. It will be recollected that hei'e nine years before Barents killed a bear. This time, the commander, Bennet, found foxes. In a second voyage nuide to the island in 1004, he found it cov- ered with wild fowl and walruses. The ivory tusks of the walrus being very valuable, an attempt was made to secure a return cargo. This was done b}^ cruelly blinding the crea- tures with small shot and then maiming them with hatchets. Out of a thousand thus tortured they killed but fifteen. The third expedition, in 1605, was better equipped, and succeeded in getting a large quantity of blubber boiled into oil, in addition to a cargo of teeth. In 1600 Bennet collected in two weeks three hogsheads of teeth and twenty-two barrels of oil. Again, in 1008, he was on this same island and in seven hours the crew KILLED ONE THOUSAND WALRUSES. A pair of these monstrous brutes was taken alive to England, the male being exhibited at court, "where the king and many lionorable personages beheld it with admiration for the strangeness of the same, the like whei'eof had never before been seen in England. Not long after it fell sick and died. As tlie beast in shape is very strange, so it is of strange docili- ty, and apt to be taught, as by good experience we often proved." In 1609 five English ships were here at one time, all loading with furs, oil, and walrus teeth. When it is remembered that tlie walrus frequently weighs a ton and has tusks two feet in 48 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; length it will not seem incredible that they were able to secure such vast quantities of oil and ivory. THREE LEAD MINES were also discovered on the island. The weather during the latter part of June is described as being calm, clear, and about as warm as in England at the same period. This is owing to the influence of the Gulf Stream. The dream of a northwest passage again disturbed the peaceful rest of England, and the Muscovy Company, in 1600, sent out a small vessel of fortj^ tons burden under the com- mand of the brave and competent John Knight. The middle of June found him in stormy weather with frightful north winds and huge masses of ice driving the ship upon the rocks of Labrador. With rudder carried away and hull much injured, he welcomed refuge in the first inlet. Here he made repairs and examined the stores and provisions. On June 2Gth, Knight, in company with his brother and one of the seamen, crossed the inlet. A SAD FATE awaited them. When last seen they had climbed a hill, and just before passing down on the opposite side waved their hats in token of parting to those on board. In vain did the .boatmen await their return. In vain through all the dark night did the crew fire off their muskets, call long and loudly, and blow the trumpets. Unfortunately bad weather prevailed and the ice prevented searching parties from being sent out. On the night of June 28th, however, knowledge of their fate came to hand. They were themselves attacked b}' about fift^' savages who surrounded the ship in their canoes. Athough but eight in number, the men were aided in their defense and ejisuing offense by a large mastiff which had been the com- panion of their voyage. (1.) Winter Traveling On Great Slave Lake— Lt. Back. (2.) Trout Fall, Sep- tember, 1819— Lt. Hood. (3.) From Mori?an's Rock, Hill River, September 19, 1819-Hood. (4.) Making Camp, March, 1820— Back. (5.) A Buffalo Pound, Feb- ruary, 1820- Back. (6.) Interior of a Cree Indian Tent, March, 1820. (iSee Chapter VI.) (1.) Ah-kai-tclio and Son— Hood. (2.) Crossing Lake Prosperous, May 30, 1820— Hood. (3.) Marten Lake, 1820— Hood. (4.) Discovery of the Coppermine River, September 1, 1820-Hood. (.">.) Fort Enterprise, May 13, 1821 (Snow Melt- ins)— Back. (G.) Kas-kar-rali, Copper Indian (juide and His Daughter "Groan. Stockiugs"— Hood. (See Chapter VI.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 49 The natives became entangled in the ice and the volley's of musketry fired at them created havoc in their midst. CRIES, GROANS, AND LAMENTATIONS made the night hideous. These savages were small of stature, tawny, slightly built, quite beardless, and had flat noses. Fearing another attack from increased numbers, the men, with rudderless ship and being compelled to keep constantly at the pumps, put to sea. Through favoring currents and hard work at the oars at the end of three weeks thej arrived at the island of Fogo, off the northeast coast of Newfounland — a rocky islet which the writer distinctly recollects as having been pointed out to him b}^ the lamented Captain Bartlett, then commanding the "Falcon," on the wa}^ to St. John's, New- foundland, from Anniversary Lodge, North Greenland, Sep- tember 12, 1894. Being assisted b}' the fishermen in repairing their vessel, they set sail for England, where they arrived September 24th of the same year. Contemporaneous with the first permanent English settle- ment in America, made at Jamestown, Virginia, in 1(H)7, was also undertaken the first voyage ".toward China" by way of the NORTH POLE. More than three-fourths of a century previous to this, Kob- ert Thorne had indulged in dreams of attaining this point, but not until after commerce had first been established on more southern waters was this route attempted. Some mer- chants of London, being desirous of ascertaining a shorter and more direct way to the Pacific, secured a small vessel with ten sailors and placed in command HENRY HUDSON, who was not long in reaching latitude 73°, on the east coast of Greenland, and thence the northern point of Spitzbergen, in latitude 80°. With strenuous efforts this sage of the sea pushed his staunch little ship to 81° 30' of latitude — a record 50 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; which remained imbrokeu for nearly two centuries and a quar- ter, or until Parry, the prince of polar ice, attained in the same region in 1827, 83° 45'. The next year on a SECOND VOYAGE he folloAved the course taken by Barents by way of Nova Zem- bla, but, in latitude 72° 25', was compelled to turn back on account of the ice. His third voyage, made in 1G09, was, first, an attempt to push through the ice b}'- way of the famous northeast passage, failing in which he, secondly, immediately sailed for (ireenland and Davis' Strait in search for the north- west passage; but, being driven southward, he touched the western world in the region of Nova Scotia and thence explored the coast as far as Chesapeake Bay, on the return voyage dis- covering and exploring nearly- to the present site of Albany^ the noble stream modestly named by him North River, but now rightly called Hudson in his honor. It now remained for Hudson to make his fourth and last sad voyage. On April 17, 1010, in a ship of but fifty-five tons burden and with but six months' provisions, he left London, and, passing the Shetland and Faroe Islands, on the 11th of May sighted Iceland, Here they witnessed old Hecla, the noted volcano, in the glory of an eruption. Landing, they'' bathed in one of the outflows of the great geyser, the water of which they found hot enough to bctil a fowl. In four days they were in the great ice-barrier off Greenland. Saj^s Hudson: "This d-dj we saw Greenland perfectly, over the ice; and this night the SUN WENT DOWN DUE NORTH, and rose north-northeast, so plying the fifth day, we were in «)5^" liounding Cape Farewell they met with large num- bers of whales in the vicinity of Cape Desolation. From this }>oint they pursued a west-northwest course, hitting upon, by the last of June, Resolution Island, discovered in 1576 by Fro- bisher, and thence continued through the strait now bearing his name to the vast inland sea, or bay, also called in his honor. Having discovered the great body of water on St. Michael's OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 51 Day, the 29tli of September, Hudson uamed it Micliaelmas Bay. It will be remembered that Sebastian Cabot had previously explored the bay in 1517. The six months for which the ship was x3rovisioned had now nearl}' elapsed, but in the three weeks which remained of the allotted period they might have reached England vritli- out inconvenience. The majority on board already believed that the South Sea had been reached and the coveted noith- west passage found. They seem to have been desirous of making their escape before being completely hemmed in by the ice. Hudson, however, was of an adverse opinion and went into winter-quarters. By the 10th of November they were complete!}' frozen in and about the same time the GUNNER DIED. The men quite naturally attributed his untimely end to the obstinacy of the commander and were growing in discontent- ment. Provisions were now so nearly exhausted that in spite of additions made hj hunting they were reduced to very short rations. The hope — the fascination — of success — of liuding an outlet to the Pacific and consequently to a more genial clime, probably induced Hudson to remain until escape became impossible. He ERRED IN JUDGMENT and brought upon himself the sad, sad fate which he hardly deserved. Had he known to a certainty and in season that ^here was no other passage to a better climate, as, for example, in going from the north of Greenland or Spitzbergen to the pole, no other avenue of escape than by retracing his course, the case might be viewed in a different light. Even had he returned to England by the end of the six months for which the expedition was provisioned no blame could have been at- tached to him. On the contrary, he would have been praised foi' great prudence. In spite of persistent efforts to replenish their larder by 52 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; hunting and fishing and by bartering with the natives, spring found these poor men on the point of ACTUAL STARVATION. This, following an all winter's allowance of short rations, may in a measure exonerate the men for the mutinous feeling then generally prevalent among them. Had unforeseen acci- dent and not deliberate calculation been the cause, the case would be different. At last Hudson decided to leave James' Bay and return to Englaud by the way he had come. Before starting he doled out what remained of the provisions, a loaf of bread to each man, and five cheeses to be divided equally among them. What with these and eighty fishes caught soon afterwards, they might have lived two weeks longer, on short rations. The boatswain, frenzied with hunger, consumed his allowance in one day, and was, in consequence, sick for some time. On the 21st of June, Hudson, as he came on deck, was seized and securely bound by three of the disaffected ones and, with his son John, the six invalids, and the carpenter, John King, INHUMANLY PLACED ADRIFT in the ship's boat, and was never again seen or heard of. Standing to sea, the mutineers in a few days were driven upon the ice by a storm and held prisoners for two weeks. By the last of July they were in Hudson's Strait. On one occasion, six of the men having landed for the purpose of shooting fowl, they were unexpectedly attacked by the Eskimos and four of the six either killed outright or died of their wounds shortly afterwards. Others died on the voy- age, and all suffered great privations. Finally reaching Bantry Bay, on the southwest coast of Ireland, they were enabled, by the assistance of fresh seamen, to reach England. Robert Billet, or Bylot, mate and acting master of the ves- sel on her arrival, and Habbakuk Pricket, historian of the voyage, were the only two to present themselves before the authorities, the others concealing themselves in obscurity. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 53 While Hudson and companions were thus starving in the northwest, the English were pushing their vessels DIRECTLY POLEWARD by way of Spitzbergen. The command of an expedition in this direction, in 1610, was entrusted to Jonas Poole, with these instructions: "Inasmuch as it hath pleased Almighty God, through the industrj^ of yourself and others, to discover unto our nation a land lying in eighty degrees toward the North Pole, we are desirous not only to discover farther to the north- ward along the said land, to find whether the same be an island or a main, and which way the same doth trend, either to the eastward or to the westward of the pole; as also whether the same be inhabited by any people, or whether there be an open sea farther north than hath been already discovered." In this Yojage Poole attained latitude 78°. The following is an interesting part of his report: "A passage may be as soon attained this way by the pole as any unknown way what- soevei', by reason the sun doth give a great heat in this cli- mate, and the ice that freezeth here is nothing so huge as I^ have seen in 73°." In 1611 Poole again went northward, being accompanied by the first English ship ever intended expressly for whaling. Leaving this on the "whaling-grounds," he advanced north- ward to 80° and then steered westward, exploring the east coast of Greenland, two degrees farther north than had ever been charted. Upon returning to the vessel he found that the crew had caught thirteen whales, and they, then joined company to England. Once more, in 1612-13, Poole made a voyage to the "SEA OP SPITZBERGEN." Here he found at least twenty whaling-vessels, Dutch, French, Spanish, Biscayan, and English, one of them being in command of William Baffin, soon to be noted as an able Arctic navigator. 54 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; In 1613 the crown of England quietly and peaceably took pos- session of the island and contiguous sea. THE SEARCH FOR HUDSON, undertaken in the year 1612, led to further geographical knowledge of Hudson Ba}^, but to no new information concern- ing the abandoned navigator and his invalid companions. Pricket and Bylot, of Hudson's unfortunate party, accom- panied the expedition, which was placed under command of Sir Thomas Button, then a leader of thought in England, but who, though well-versed in the history of northern research, lacked ilw }>ractical experience and insight of Bylot. Enters n,<4' Hudson's Ba}^, Button reached Southampton Island, ;:ailiiig thence westward to the west coast, in latitude 60° 40', named by him '^ Hopes Checked" — doubtless because the unbroken shore-line (piite dispelled his ambitious faith in the existence of the northwest passage in that region. Pro- ceeding southward, he discovered the bay now known by his name, and, on August 15th, Nelson River, near the mouth of which he spent the winter, during which period some of the crew died from the effects of intense cold. In the spring GAME ABOUNDED, and more than 21,000 "white partridges," or ptarmigans, were secured by the crews of both vessels. Had hunting parties been despatched early in the fall an ample supply of fresh meat and warm furs would doubtless have been obtained and no deaths occurred. To this day even, game is "unimaginably abundant" in those regions. In 1894, the late Professor Tyr- rell, of the Canadian Geological Survey, explored a large por- tion of the unknown lauds lying to the west of Hudson's Bay. In this treeless region he found that "over an area of three square miles or more, the reindeer were so thick as almost com- pletely to shut out from view the ground." In April, 1613, Button left winter quarters and, sailing northward, discovered Mansfield's Islands, in 65°. He then sailed to England, crossing the Atlantic in thirteen days from OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 55 Cape Chidley, the northernmost point in Labrador, He was still of the opinion that the Northwest Passage led from Hud- son's Bay, seeming to eliug to the conviction with as much pertinacity as did Hudson himself, and "ravished the public with the whistling of his name," notwithstanding the wiser counter-belief of the less influential Bylot. But it required "generations" for the public mind to accept this. In 1605 the Danish Government sent out an exploring ex- pedition to search for the old Norse colonists, but when in latitude 69°, near the present site of Christianshaab, the crews of the three vessels rebelled, necessitating the return of the expedition. The next year the government sent out another squadron of four ships to search for gold and silver mines in Greenland. On both of these voyages the celebrated Captain James Hall served as pilot. Of the second expedition he wrote that they "landed to see the silver mine, where it was decreed we should take in as much as we coirld." When in latitude 66° 25', or almost on the Arctic Circle, they kidnapped live Eskimos and carried them to Denmark. In 1607, when on another cruise to Greenland, still under Danish auspices, he was compelled to return owing to the mutiny of his crew. Six years later, in 1612, Hall, accompanied by Baffin, in the employ of the Muscovy Company, revisited the place whence he had stolen the natives in 1606. Neither his ap- pearance nor his treachery had been forgotten. Attacking him suddenly, one of the Eskimos dealt him such a thrust with his spear that HALL DIED shortly afterward, and the expedition returned to England under command of Baffin, a man well versed ^ in the nautical science of the day and who, by observing the heavenlj' bodies during this voyage, was the first to indicate a new method of determining the position of a vessel at sea. As stated in considering Poole's voyage to the "sea of Spitzbergen," Baffin was in command of one of the whaling- vessels. Here again he gives evidence of his wonderful pow- 56 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ers of observation iD noting tlie extraordinary refraction of the atmospliere in high latitudes and the quality of which he determined to be twenty-six minutes at the horizon. "I sup- pose," he characteristically remarks, "the refraction is more or less according as the air is thick or clear, which I leave for better scholars to discuss." The notion of a northwest passage leading from Hudson's ]>ay seems to have fallen as an inheritance from Sir Thomas Button directly unto his kinsman. Captain Gibbons, a mem- ber also of the search-voyage of 1612. Arriving at Hudson's Bay in 1G14, Captain Gibbons was harassed by violent winds, dense fogs, and treacherous ice, comi)elling him to return without accomplishing anything of note. In 1011 also, Fotherby and Baffln pushed northward but were compelled to return after reaching 80° In 1G15 Fotherby again tried the rftute directly poleward, but was unable to get beyond Spitzbergen. During the same year the northwest passage was essayed by waj' of Hudson's Bay, then supposed bv some to be a gulf or inland sea communicating directlv with the great South Sea. So confident of success were the promoters of this voyage that instructions were given to bring back a Japanese. The expedition was led by Bylot and Baffin, and resulted in Captain Bylot's report antagonizing the theory of Button, and the opinion of the public generally. Again, in 1616, these careful and skillful navigators, with a crew of but fourteen men and two boys, pushed through Davis'- Strait, meeting with icebergs whose height above the surface of the water they computed to be 240 feet and length below at nearly 1,500 feet, and, entering a vast expanse of water, DISCOVERED BAFFIN'S BAY, which, owing to the peculiar trend of the western coast of Greenland, they judged to be land-locked on the north. Smith, Jones, and Lancaster Sounds, which they entered on the north and west of the bay, they thought to be mere smaller bays, or inlets, opening into the large one just discovered, instead OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 57 of being straits leading to larger bodies of water farther north and west. And now, in 1619, were the Dutch, under the liberal pat- ronage of the broad-minded Christian IV. of Denmark and Norway, to try for the famous northwest passage. By the Tth of September, two vessels and sixty-five men had safely passed through Hudson's Strait and were in winter-quarters in Chesterfield Inlet, off the northwest coast of Hudson's Bay. An able navigator, Jens Munk, was in command. Bears, hares, foxes, partridges, and other wild game were secured in great abundance during the fore part of the winter. The men, how- ever, were superstitious and attributed every unusual occur- rence as an omen of evil. The intense cold caused such an expansion of the brandy, wine and beer as to cause the casks to burst. To prevent the loss of the liquor they drank to excess, and this, with the low state of their supplies at this period, brought on disease. Wild fowl still abounded, but the men were unfitted for obtaining any. Before the end of May, 1G20, WTNE, BEER, AND SCURVY had killed sixty-two of the sixty-five men. Munk and two seamen alone survived. Bemoving the snow, they obtained roots, grasses and other herbs with which they relieved the scurvy. Gaining strength they dragged their bodies to a stream, where they obtained a wholesome supply of fish. No longer soaked with alcohol, they were able to kill birds and larger animals and in time to refit the smaller vessel. They then set sail and arrived in Norway by the last of September. This inordinate use of spilt liquor reminds the writer of an occurrence and resulting conversation had with an Irishman during our travels in the western portion of Ireland in 1885. Though perhaps foreign to the matter of Arctic narrative, we give it as a truthful illustration of "history repeating it- self," in part at any rate, and what mioht be the consequence to Limerick were she to send her indulgent sons to winter in Arctic regions. 58 HE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Here is the incident: One day in passing a large brewery located on the Shannon, at Limerick, an Irishman called our attention to a portion of wall forming a large whisky vat that had recently bursted. Said he: "The liquor rin al' over; it filled al' the sthrates an' the Shannon; but, be gorry, it loike to filled the cimiturry, too." Asked to explain, he continued: "Yer honur, sur, the liquor what sthood in holes an' pools "HUNDREDS 0' POOR DIVILS sucked up wid quills; it was too sthrang fur 'em entoirely, sur, an' they loike to doid. The poison o' the sthuff, sur, wouldn't o' got out o' it in siven yairs." For a quarter of a century Captain Luke Fox had, as he quaintly puts it, been "itching after northern discovery ever since 1600, when he wished to have gone as mate to John Knight." The sorrow^ful fate of that brave man did not cure the "itching" and so, in 1631, he was given command of an English ship and sent to search for a northwest passage. Before sailing, the King provided him with a letter of instruc- tions, a chart of the regions previously discovered, and a LETTER OF INTRODUCTION to the Emperor of Jajjan, for that priucipalit}- was considered to be near the also-supposed-unremote "New Albion" (Cali- fornia) and South Sea of Drake. Reaching Salisbury Island, latitude 63° 27', in Hudson's Strait, he noted the sluggishness of the needle and ascribes it to "the sharpness of the air interposed between the needle and the attractive point." On an island which he discovered in the northwest part of Hudson's Bay he found a burial- ground of the Eskimos. With their dead they had deposited bows, arrows, and darts, many with iron heads, and a single one with copper. Later, he found the cross erected by Sir James Button on the Nelson River. Here he fell in with the vessel of Captain James, also on a search for the mysterious highway. Fox OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 59 shortly afterwards set sail for England, where he arrived Oc- tober 31st. Having noticed that the tiow^ of the tide in Roe's Welcome, in the northwest portion of Hudson's Bay, sets in from the north, and that there are also found many whales, he maintained that he had been near to the oft-searched-for passage to Japan. Fox wrote an account of his voyage and makes grateful acknowledgment that he had "not lost one man or boy, nor any manner of tackling, having been forth nearly six months; all glory be to God." Apologeticalh'- of his book, he writes: "Gentle reader, expect not here any flourishing phrases or eloquent terms; for this child of mine, begot in the northw^est's cold clime, where they breed no scholars, is not able to digest the sweet milk of rhetoric." Rivaling London in her efforts to solve the location of the northwest passage through the agency of Fox, the city of Bristol had likewise equipped a vessel of seventj^ tons under command of Captain Thomas James. He, too, was furnished with a letter of introduction to the Emperor of Japan. The crew consisted of twenty-two active, solber, and unmar- ried young men who had never before nmde a voyage to those regions. The wise forethought of Captain James had pro- vided the vessel with everything needful, the supply of provisions being for eighteen months. At the entrance to Hudson's Strait they battled incessantly for five days to keep the huge icebergs from crushing the ship. In gratitude for their narrow escape they named a place of refuge which they at last found, "Harbor of God's Providence." More than once again the TERRIBLE ICEPACK crunched against the sides of the vessel and made her tremble from prow to stern. At another time during a gale the anchor slipped and, in again catching, the sudden shock hurled eight of the men from the capstan with such violence that all were injured, the gunner having a leg so badly crushed that it was necessary to amputate it in order to save his life. Proceeding down the western shore of the bay, meeting 60 THE SEARCH FOfl THE NORTH POLE; with Fox in the vicinity of Nelson River, thej entered the water since called in honor of the navigator, James' Bay. Here they discovered and named Weston and Eoe islands, in latitudes 52° 45' and 52° 10' respectively. On another island, named by them Charlton, nearer the head of the bay, thej established winter-quarters. Here they cut a large suppl}^ of wood for fuel and erected a hut. The island was thoroughly explored to ascertain if there were any savages. None were found, although traces of their former habitation existed. On October 14th a deer was shot and carried twelve miles to camp. A few days later, one of the men, while out on a hunting and exploring trip, broke through the ice and was drowned. November 12th THE HUT TCOK FIRE, but they were able to save it, and afterwards kept regular fire-watch. The gunner, whose leg had been amputated in consequence of the fall from the capstan, died on the 22d. A week later they scuttled and sunk the ship near the shore. They saved most of the provisions but lost their clothes and the medicine chest. In their extremity they PLEDGED THEMSELVES to be faithful to one another, to do their utmost for the com- mon welfare, and to be obedient to their commander, even unto death. During the first three weeks of December the crew were engaged in rescuing goods from the hold of the sunken ship. Three -more huts were constructed, and being covered with snow, they were made more comfortable. By the end of January the ground was frozen to the depth of ten feet. Knowing nothing of the infiuence of the Gulf Stream at that time, or of isothermal lines, they could not understand wh}^ it was so much colder than on a corresponding latitude in Eng- land. Frost-bitten and without shoes, their feet being wrapped in rags, they went into the forest to gather their daily supply OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 61 of fuel. Disease, sores, and swellings placed two-thirds of them under the surgeon's care. Among these NOBLE FELLOWS none deserve greater praise than the carpenter, William Cole, a hero among heroes. After the scuttling and sinking of the ship it was deemed advisable to build a new boat, that, in case the vessel could not be recovered or should be found unseaworthy, they might effect their escape in a smaller craft. From the 10th of December to the 18th of May the ill and dying carpenter kept at his work till the last moment, leaving it in such shape that the men could have finished it. Four days later, however, they pumped the ship almost dry, and within three weeks entirely so and she again floated. Now followed busy preparations for departure. Ballast and provisions were again placed on board; memorial cairns, raised over the graves of their dead ; a cross was erected ; the one lost at sea recovered and interred with his silent comrades; a last visit paid to these lonely sepulchers, where morning and even- ing prayers were said ; and, finally, a record of past events and future intentions left by the Captain at the cross, upon which was inscribed the names of the King and Queen of England, with the added titles of New Poundland, and of "these terri- tories to New Albion." It may be here remarked that Captain James had enter- tained an idea of finding a passage leading from the head of the bay to the "River of Canada" — the St. Lawrence. Before leaving, this noble commander composed the follow- ing memorial lines: "I were unkind, unless that I did shed Before I part, some tears upon our dead; And when my eyes be dry, I will not cease In heart to pray their bones may rest in peace. Their better parte, good souls, I know were given, With the intent that they return to Heaven. Their lives they spent to the last drop of blood, Seeking God's glory and their country's good; And as a valiant soldier rather dies 62 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; "Than yield his courage to his enemies, And stops their way with his hew'd flesh when death Hath quite deprived him of his strength and breath; So have tliey spent themselves, and here they lie, A famous mark of our discovery. We that survive, perchance may end our days In some employment meriting no praise; They have outlived this fear, and their brave ends Will ever be an honor to their friends. Why drop you so, mine eyes? Nay, rather pour My sad departure in a solemn shower. The Avinter's cold that lately froze our blood, Now, were it so extreme, might do this good. As make these tears bright pearls, which I would lay Tomb'd safely with you, till doom's fatal day; That in this solitary place, where none Will ever come to breathe a sigh or groan, Some remnant might be extant of the true And faithful love I ever tender'd you. Oh! rest in peace, dear friends, and — let it be No pride to say — the sometime part of me. What pain and anguish doth afflict the head, The heart and stomach, when the limbs are dead. So, grieved I kiss your gi'aves, and vow to die A foster-father to your memory." During- the entire mouth of July these heroic souls were tossed and driven about by wind and ice within James' Bay, and it was not till the close of August, after repeated escapes from storm and ice, that they were beyond the perils of Hud- son's Bay, nor till the 22d of October, 1032, having been har- assed by adverse winds to the very last, after an absence of seventeen months and five days, or very nearly the period for which Captain James had at the first provisioned his expedi- tion, that they once more dropped anchor in Bristol Harbor. Nearly midway between Spitzbergen and Iceland is the LONELY ISLE OF JAN MAYEN, discovered in 1611 by the sturdy captain of a Dutch whaler, Jan Maj^en by name, and for whom it was named. In about the same latitude as Hammerfest and within the tempering influences of the Gulf Stream, its winters are comparatively mild for the Arctic regions, and spring there returns at an OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 63 early date. This, too, was early found to be a nursery for whales and was accordingly made the headquarters for the capture of those mammals. With August 26, 1633, seven men began a voluntary sojourn there till the return of the whaling fleet the following sum- mer. It does not appear that the cold was great until the 19th of November, by which time the sea became frozen as far as could be seen. Three weeks of mild weather followed, when, on the 8th of December, the cold again increased, and for the next four months they shut themselves within their hut, IDLE AND INACTIVE, meanwhile living — dying rather — upon beer, brand^^, and salt meat. Notwithstanding that bear flesh was to be had, they allowed the scurvy to secure such a hold upon them that by the 3d of April but two of the seven could stand. In the lat- ter part of the month this record appears: "We are now reduced to so sad a state that none of ni}- comrades can help themselves, and the whole burden, there- fore, lies upon my shoulders. I shall perform my dut\^ as long as I am able, and it pleases God to give me strength. I am now about to assist our commander out of his cabin; he thinks it will relieve his pain; he is struggling with death. "The night is dark, and the wind blows from the south." April 23d he died. Three days later the survivors killed their dog for food. By the last of the month the bay was clear of ice and the sun shone brilliantly. The record of April 30th was the last made. Here ends the history of seven men who sacrificed their lives, not through the severity of climate, but through ignorance and lack of energy and forethought. IN BRIGHT CONTRAST with the foregoing events on Jan Mayen Island is the story of another little company of volunteers who spent nearly nine months during the same year on North Bay, latitude 80°, Spitz- 64 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; bergen, and therefore uiue degrees farther north than the pre- ceding party. They were SEVEN OTHER DUTCHMEN, who, no sooner than the whaling vessels had left them, began to gather herbs, hunt the reindeer, whales, uorwhales, and wild fowls, and thus provide not only food but also healthful exercise, ^'I'heu, on May 27, 1634, the fleet again arrived, every man was taken on board, not one having even been ill during their sojourn. Again were seven men left at North Bay before the return of the fleet homeward in 1634. With them was left an abun- dance of li(][uors and salt meat. But, lacking the energy and common sense of their immediate predecessors, the}'' failed to exercise and to lay in a su})ply of fresh meats. And so, begin- ning with January 14th, one by one thej^ died, until, at the arrival of the fleet in 1635, none survived. Less than thirtj^-five years later, a Frenchman, Grosselier by name, had penetrated through the wilds of Canada until he arrived upon the shores of Hudson's Bay. He believed that he had made a remarkable discovery, and at once has- tened to report the same to his sovereign, Louis XIV. of France. Deaf ears rewarded his pains. He then went to England, where his story resulted in the formation of the HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY, in 1670, with liberal charter privileges from King Charles II. It was believed that Grosselier and two English com- panions had discovered the northwest passage, and accord- ingly an expedition was once more sent to search for it in the name of the English monarch. CAPTAIN ZACHARIAH GILLAM was placed in command, and, sailing to the head of James' Bay, built, at the mouth of Rupert Biver, a small stone fort, thus establishing the first English settlement in the territory (1.) Eskimo Interincters, "Junius" and "Augustus"— Back. (2.) White Wolf (Hood), and View of 'Dog-rib Rock"— Back. (3.) Passing- Througli Port Lata on the Ice, .JunA 25, 1821— Back. (4.) Bloody Fall, July 17, 1821— Back. (5.) Midnight View of Arctic Ocean from Mouth of Coppermine River— Back. (G.) Doubling Cape Barrow, July 25, IBJl-Back. (See Chapter VI.) % /" (1.) Point Turn Again, August 21. 1821— Back. (2.) Canoe Broaching to Gale at Sunrise, August 23, 1821 -Hood. (3.) Landing in a Storm, August 23, 1821. (4.) En- camping and Gathering Tripe-de-roche, Barren Grounds, September 10, 1821. (5.) Falls of Wilberforce, 2oU feet high. (6.) Eskimos Pillaging the Boats— Back. (See Chapter VI.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. I6b of the HudsoD Bay Company, Passing an uneventful winter on Charlton Island, he returned to England without having made the great discovei\y that was expected from the reports of Grosselier, who accompanied him as suh-ordinate officer. A SAILOR'S YARN spun into the ears of the King's hjalrographer led not only that theorist but maiw of the foremost men of England into re- neAved belief that there could yet be discovered a northeast passage to Japan and the Mala^^ Archipelago. Charles II, and his brother, the Duke of York, afterwards James II., were among the converts. The story, related to Moxon, the hj^^drographer, by the pilot of a Greenland whaling vessel, is as follows: "Whereupon, his relation being novel to me, I entered into discourse with him, and seemed to question the truth of what he said; but he did assure me that it was true, and that the ship was then at Amsterdam, and many of the men belonging to her could justify the truth of it; and told me, moreover, that ihej had sailed two degrees beyond the pole. I asked him if they found no land or islands about the pole. He replied, 'No; it was a free, open sea.' I asked him if they did not meet with a great deal of ice. He said, 'No; they saw no ice.' I asked him what weather they had there. He told me, 'Fine, warm Aveather, such as was at Amsterdam in the summer time, and as hot.' " Captain John Wood, a naval hero under Marlborough, easily persuaded the King and his brother the Duke to fit out two vessels, the "SpeedAvell," with sixty-eight men, and the "Pros- perous," eighteen men, for a voyage, following the old course of Barents, betAveen Nova Zembla and Spitzbergeu. The ships, under command of Wood, were proA^isioned for sixteen months, and loaded with merchandise for the elapanese market. Bounding North Cape, on June 22d, Wood sailed northeast till stopped by the ice in latitude 76°. Pie also concluded that Barents and all other navigators before him were mistaken in supposing land to extend beyond 80°, 66 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Abaudoning bis eberislied idea, he turned his vessels west- ward, when, suddenl^^, while enveloped in dense fog, the ''Speed- well" WENT TO PIECES ON A ROCK, the men, however, with one exception, making good their escape to the shore — on the westernmost promontory of Nova Zembla. From the wreckage washed ashore they obtained provisions and wood for huts and fuel. Fortunately, a Aveek later, July 8th, the "Prosperous," having escaped dam- age on the rocks, returned in search of her companion vessel, and, taking on board the shipwrecked men, returned to Eng- land August 23, 1G7G. Forty-three years later, the Hudson Bay Company insti- tuted another search for copper and the northwest passage. The existence of a rich mine of this metal on the banks of a navigable river north of the company's headquarters, on the Nelson liiver, had been reported by the natives, and at length James Knight, eighty years of age, then at the head of the company's affairs, persuaded them to send him, "by (rod's permission to find out the Straits of Ainan, in order to discover gold and other valuable commodities to the north- ward." This old man, with two vessels in immediate command of George Barlow and David Yaughan, sailed in either the summer or autumn of 1719. But they never returned. All that has since been learned of their fate will be found in con- sidering the expedition of Hearne, a half century later. In 1722 a rescuing party under Captain Scroggs was sent to search for the missing ships. Sailing northward from Churchill Kiver, in Button Bay, they returned with no infor- mation save a confirmation of the report concerning the exist- ence of a copper mine "somewhere in that countrj^" OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 6? CHAPTER III. RUSSIAN ARCTIC VOYAGES. NotwitliHtanding the early aud repeated efforts of the Eu- glish and Dutch to discover a northeast passage, nothing ^Yas known of the Arctic regions of Siberia east of the Yeu-i-se-i even as late as the beginning of the seventeenth ceutu^3^ Doubtless before this time, adventurers in search of furs and game had penetrated far within the interior, but the accounts of the journeys thus made do not appear to be of authentic natures. As previously shown, it was not until the efforts of Chan- cellor, in 1554, to traverse that sought-for passage, that Russia was induced to take an interest in maritime enterprises by showing her a way of obtaining goods from West Europe and beyond, without having to receive them through her rivals and enemies, the Poles. THE FIRST ARCTIC VOYAGE made by the Russians was in 1646. This was by private ad- venturers, who coasted for two days eastward from the mouth of the Kolyma River. The main body of ice had grounded (m a shelving ledge of the coast, thus leaving a narrow channel of water between it and the land, in which they plied their small craft. Having met a tribe of Chook-chee Eskimos, articles of barter were exchanged, after the manner of the tribes of Africa and as described by Herodotus. The Russians first placed their wares upon the beach and then withdrew, where- upon the natives selected such as they desired, leaving instead 68 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; a quantity of walrus tusks, which the adventurers gathered and carried home. Two years later, in 1648, DESHNEFF. a Cossack, left the Kolyma in command of seven vessels, four of which were soon lost. Beginning his account with the great cape of the Chook-chees, undoubtedly Cape East, Deshneff says: "It is situated between the north and northeast, and turns circularly toward the river Anadir. Over against the cape are two islands, upon which were seen some men of the Chook-chee nation, who had holes pierced in their lips, through which were stuck pieces of the teeth of the sea horse." These were evidently Alaskan Eskimos. Only one of the three remaining vessels succeeded in reach- ing the mouth of the Anadyr, which empties into the gulf of the same name, the other two having been either lost or left behind. It has been conjectured that an attempt was made to carry them across the promontor}-, a circumstance that would recall the transportation across the Isthmus of Panama of the first vessel launched upon the Pacific. Be this as it may, it is clear that Deshneff was the first to sail through Bering's Strait. His last vessel was wrecked, however, a little south of the mouth of the Anadyr, and the crew, consisting of twenty-five men, set out to return overland. Having wan- dered ten weeks through an uninhabited waste, they arrived ujjon the bank of a stream occupied b^' a small tribe of An- au-li, whom they at once exterminated. Their crueltj^, how- ever, resulted somewhat later in increasing their own suf- fering. Deshneff's discovery led to extensive traffic with the tribes north of Kam-chat-ka, but this was carried on mostly through the interior. A half century later, in 1696, the Rus- sian and Cossack merchant-adventurers plundered, under pre- text of taxation, the native villages farther south and along the course of the Kamchatka River. In the following year Vla-di-mir At-las-soff, a Cossack officer, bent upon the con- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 69 quest of Kam-chat-ka, traversed the region between the Ir- kutsk and Anadj r rivers. He states, but upon what authority is unknown, that be- tween the Kolyma, and the Anadyr are two great capes, the more western of which — probably Cape North — could not be rounded by any vessel by reason of great quantities of ice to be found there at all times. The Kam-cha-dales were easily conquered. They are de- scribed as being smaller than the Chook-chees, with small faces and great beards, living, during winter, underground, but, during the summer, in cabins raised from the ground on posts, the entrances being reached by means of ladders. A few years later, STAD-U-CHIN left the Ko-ly-ma in order to explore by sea the great Cape of the Chook-chees. Before arriving there, however, he aban- doned his ship and proceeded to cross the isthmus at its nar- rowest part, leaving unexplored all that region lying next to Bering's Strait. Russia now being determined to complete the subjugation of the tribes in that section of Siberia, an embassy, the chief of which was PETER SIN POPOFF, was sent, in 1711, to require hostages of the Chook-chees. The demand was refused, and not until after a resistance of seven years did they formally submit at the Ilussian fort which had been erected at the mouth of the Anadyr. Popoif wrote an account, not only of the people conquered, but also of the Alaskans, from which it appears that no trees grow at Chook- chee "Nos", or Cape; that on the shore near the cape were seen vast quantities of walrus teeth; that the Chook-chees invoke the sun to guarantee the performance of engagements made by them; that some of them owned flocks of reindeer, thus compelling them to change their places of residence; that others, not possessing reindeer, lived on the coast on each side of the cape and subsisted upon fish and walrus; that they 70 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; sometimes lived in "dug-outs," or habitations ]iollowed from the earth; that opposite to the cape was to be seen a large island, known to them as the "Great Country" — undoubtedly Alaska — whose inliabitants spoke a different language from theirs and wore in their eheeks, by way of ornamentation, pieces of walrus teeth, and who, like the Chook-ehees, used the bow-and-arrow. Popoff saw among the Chook-ehees ten pris- oners from "the (Jreat Country" thus decorated. He also learned that in winter this country may be reached in one day, traveling with reindeer and sledge over the sea ice, and in summer, in the same time with canoes, which are made of whalebone covered with seal skins. Half way between the cape and the Great Country was an island, either Clark's or t^t. Lawrence, from which, on a clear day, the Great Country could be seen. In making the journey fi-om the cape to the Anadyr, ten weeks, without storm or accident, were required by reindeer if made to draw a loaded sledge. At the cape, the only wild animals were wolves and red foxes; in the Great Country, there were to be found bears, sables, martens, otters, wolves, :ind man^y kinds of foxes. Popoff estimated the male adults of both coast and inland Chook-ehees at 2,000; those of the Great Country, (>,00t). He also learned that some of the latter possessed herds of tame reindeer. PETER THE GREAT'S INTEREST IN ARCTIC RESEARCH will be seen from his having, just prior to his death, specifically planned two expeditious for northern research. The first of these was to proceed from Archangel eastward through the ice (if the Arctic Sea and explore the north coast of Siberia. This, however, came to naught, owing to the besetment of the vessels. The second was to proceed overland to Kam-chat-ka and, having there built a vessel, to sail n(U'thward and ascer- tain tli(^ i^osilion of the American coast. Peter himself did not believe that there was a strait separating the two conti- nents. Ignorant of the vast eastern extension of Siberia and of the width of the Pacific Ocean, he was desirous of opening a way, through northeastern Siberia, to the rich European col- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 71 onies of Central America. The person selected by the Czar as chief of the expedition was VITUS BERING. a Dane, born of Christian parents, at Horsens, in 1681. His father, Jonas Svendsen, held, for a series of years, several posi- tions of trust, while his mother, the second wife of Svendsen and whose maiden name was Anna Bering, was of a family who, in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, included a number of ministers and judicial officers. In worldly posses- sions, however, the parents were poor, as may be judged from the following extract of probate record of their estate: "We are old, miserable, and decrepit people, in no way able to help ourselves. Our property consists of the old dilapidated home and the furniture thereto belonging, which is of but little value." The share of this small property, which fell somewhat later to Vitus, amounting to but 140 rigsdaler, its legal pos- sessor transferred to his native town to be distributed among its poor. Inclination and force of circumstances urged young Bering to the sea. Upon his return from an East India expedition, in 1703, he met, at Amsterdam, the celebrated Cornelius Cruys, a Norwegian by birth, but at that time admiral of the Russian fleet. He had previously been assistant master of ordnance in the Dutch navy. Through him, Bering now, at the early age of twenty-two, entered the Ilussian fleet as a sub-lieuten- ant. His advancement there was steady and meritorious, un- til at length we find him, after twenty-one years of faithful service in the Czar's navy, at the head of the first of his great expe feet 10 Indies lonj?, 4 leetO inches wide, 2 feet deep, and buiJt of moss-peat. Hole 18 indies wide, containing 2 egtrs, each Bounces in weiglit, eggs of cream or brownish-white color and somewhat clouded by darker tinge -Lyon. (4.) Fall of the Barrow — Lyon. (5.) Summer Tents (of seal- skins) of Eskimos, Ig-loo-lik, 1822— Lyon. (6.) Eskimo of Ig-loo-lik, in Bird-skin Jacket— Lyon. (7.) Eskimos Sledging; the Leader of the Team being the "King'* Dog— Lyon. (See Chapter Vlll.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 81 Taimur and Chook-chee peninsulas. Chariton, by extensive sledging trips, connected the coast westward from the Lena to that explored eastward from the Yenisei by Minin and Ster- legoff, while his mate, Chel-yus-kin, inl742, attained the most northerly point on the mainland of the old world, a headland since called in his honor. Concerning this event, says Mid- dendorf: "He is the only one who, a century ago, had suc- ceeded in reaching and doubling this promontory. The fact that among many he alone was successful in this enterprise, must be attributed to his great ability. On account of his per- severance, as well as his careful and exact measurements, he stands pre-eminent among seamen who have labored in the Taimyr country." Dmitri Laptjeff, as the immediate successor of Lassenius, charted the coast from the mouth of the Lena eastward beyond the mouth of the Kolyma as far as the Great Baranoft' Rocks, through a distance of more than thirty-seven degrees of longi- tude. But Cape Che-lag-skoi, whither Deshneff, a century previous had show^i the way, he did not succeed in doubling. Iveturning now to the movements of Bering, the summer of 1740 found him in command of a respectable fleet of eight or nine vessels, all built by himself, in the harbor and on the sea of Okhotsk. Weighing anchor on the 8th of September, 1740, Bering sailed to Avacha Bsij, on the southeast coast of Kamchatka. Here a fort and a church were erected in the course of the win- ter, the pious Bering consecrating the house of worship to St. Peter and St. Paul, thus founding the town of Petro-paul-ovsk. Finally, from this port, after a prayer service, the ships again weighed anchor on June 4th, 1741. Of these, Bering was in immediate command of the "St. Peter," with seventy- seven men. Chirikoff was placed in charge of the "St. Paul," with seventy-six men. First taking a southeasterly course in search for the erroneously-supposed Gamaland, the vessels be- came separated on the 20th, never again to meet. For the next four weeks the "St. Peter" sailed northeasterly. 82 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Bering's health was shattered and he was confined much of the time to his biinl\. At length, at noon on the 16th of July, land was sighted. It was an elevated, jagged, snow-covered coast, behind which a peak towered so high into the clouds that it was visible at a distance of seventy miles. It was the great St. Elias, w^hich Bering named in honor of the patron saint of the day, July 20th, on which anchor was cast off the west coast of an island also called St. Elias. The towering peak ever stands as a monumental witness that it was Bering, who, from the west and traveling to the east, discovered America. A lauding was made upon St, Elias Island — now called Kyak — and a supj)ly of fresh water obtained. Here were also found hijman habitations, food, utensils, etc. In place of articles brought on board, Bering caused to be deposited an iron kettle, tobacco, a Chinese pipe, and a piece of silk cloth. Taking thence a southwesterly course along the Alaskan Peninsula, on the 30th of August, Shu-mag-in, one of the sail- ors, died in the hands of his mates, who were taking him ashore. The group of islands where the}'^ then were was named in his honor. The condition of all on board was most deplorable. Bering was too ill to stand. Others sick were carried ashore. The subordinate ofiicers, Waxel and Khitroff, quarreled bitterly, and nearly involved the entire expedition in ruin. Steller, the naturalist, alone remained composed, and, gathering anti-scor- butics, he fed them to the scurvy-stricken crew, in conse- quence, they grew better, Bering's health also greatly improv- ing. Sailing again on September 6th, adverse winds and storms almost constantly checked their progress. Half the crew be- came sick and no cooking was done for many days. Their only food was burnt ship biscuits. On the 6th of October, when in a frightful gale of hail and snow, Bering exhorted his men to make an offering to the church: the Russians, to the church at Petropaulovsk; the Lutherans, to the church in Viborg, Finland, where Bering OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 83 had formerly resided. Among the men, death followed death, and the helmsmen were so feeble as scarcely to be able to walk to the wheel when conducted there by other sick companions. At length, on November 6, 1741, the vessel, without helms- man and with commander at death's door in his cabin, strand- ed on the most western of the two largest of the Commander Islands and which has been appropriately called in Bering's honor, for with its soil are mingled the ashes of the illustrious explorer. Shortly before the stranding of the "St. Peter/' twelve of the men liad perished, and soon thereafter nine more died. Hor- rible starvation stared them in the face. Having with painful difficulty effected a landing, those who were at all able to work began to collect drift-wood, to dig ancl to roof pits in which to live. In these efforts, Steller, the im- mortal German naturalist, was the ver}- soul of the entire party. For the sick and dying he was both cook and physician. The sick became so afflicted with scurvy that the gums, like a dark-brown sponge, slowly protruded and covered the teeth of the victims; while the dead were quickly devoured by foxes before they could be buried. It was December before the entire party were quartered for the winter in the miserable dug-outs. Bering sought in every way to inspire his companions with fresh courage and to place implicit trust in Providence for the future. He gave thanks to God for having directed his course from youth, and for hav- ing made his life successful. Nevertheless, his sixty years of age, the malignant ague contracted at Okhotsk, cold, hunger, scurvy, and grief at the fate of the expedition, bore heavily upon the brave old heart as it slowly pined away in the cheerless sand-pit. "He was, so to speak, buried alive. The sand kept contin- ually rolling down upon him from the sides of the pit and cov- ered his feet. At first this was removed, but finally he asked that it might remain, as it furnished liim with a little of the warmth he so sorely needed. Soon half of his body was un- der the sand, so that after his death, his comrades had to ex- 84 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; huine him to give him a decent burial." He died on the 8th of December, 1741, Says Steller: "Sad as his death was, that intrepidity and seriousness with whicli he prepared to meet death was most worthy of admiration." And, again, Steller writes: ''Bering was a true and honest Christian, noble, kind, and unassuming in conduct, universally loved by his subordinates — high as well as low. Every reasonable person must admit that he always sought to perform the work entrusted to him to the best of his ability, although he himself confessed and often regretted that his strength was no longer sufficient for so difflcult an expedi- tion. He deplored the fact that the plans for the expedition had been made on a much larger and more extensive scale than he had proposed." The last death occurred January 6, 1742. In all, thirty-one of the seventy-seven men had died. The others were saved only through the abundance of sea and land life in which the region then abounded. To the faithful Steller, theologian and naturalist, is human- ity obliged — not only for his persistent efforts in drawing upon this life for his helpless comrades, but also for the scholarly descriptions of it, which have rendered the history of the sec- ond expedition immortal. In those classic pages one is made to pursue with wonder, among those desolate isles, the thou- sands of fur-seals, sea-lions, sea-otters, and eared seals; the hundreds of Arctic foxes, of which from sixty to eighty could be struck down in the space of two hours; and last, and prob- ably most interesting, the now-extinct sea cow, a ponderous animal, from twenty-five to thirty feet in length, weighing about three tons, and which fed in large droves upon the algae strewn along the strand. A quarter of a century later, Russian rapacity had utterly exterminated this valuable animal. In the ensuing summer, the surviving members of the ill- starred expedition effected their escape to Petropaulovsk in a boat, made from the timber of the stranded "St. Peter." There they learned of the return of the "St. Paul," under Chirikoff, OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 85 Avlio had succeeded in reaching the American coast, probably about 200 miles southward of the point reached by Bering. His men had also experienced great hardships, and twenty-one of them died. Among these was the astronomer La Croyere. The survivors finally, in 1745, returned to St. Petersburg, thus terminating the Great Northern Expedition, a pioneer venture for knowledge, science, and commerce. FRANKLIN RELICS. 86 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER IV. ARCTIC VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN COOK, THE SCORESBYS, SIR JOHxN ROSS, AND OTHERS. ConteiiJitoraneoiis with tlie Freucli and ludian War, the Dorthvvest })assage was again sought for. lu the spring of 1754, Captain Charles Swaine, leaving Philadelphia, Pennsyl- vania, in the American scliooner "Argo," in vain sought the waters of Hudson's Bay. The previous winter had been an unusually severe one, and other vessels bound for tlie northern whale fisheries were also turned back on ac- count of the ice. Swaine then directed his attention to a perfect exploration of the west coast of Labrador from its northern point, latitude about 00°, southward to latitude 54°. He found six ini}M)rtant inlets, but not a passage leading west- ward to Hudson's Bay as he had anticipated. He also col- lected informati(m concerning the soil, produce, and people of the country, and noted that a high mountain range, one hun- dred fifty miles inland, traversed the interior from north to south. On one of the inlets he found a deserted wooden house with a brick chimney. Shortly afterwards he met with a bark. Captain Goff, from London, who informed him that the house was built there the .year previous by some Moravian missionaries who had been landed there from the vessel which he was then commanding. But the captain and six of his men having been kidnapped by the natives, it became necessary, after more than two weeks' delay vainly awaiting the return of the men, for the missionaries to return with the remainder of the crew in order to work the vessel, Goff was then seeking information concerning the fate of the men. Swaine also dis- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. S7 covered an excellent fishing-bank, extending three degrees southward from the fifty-seventh parallel and about twenty miles off shore. Concerning this expedition the following extract from a letter written by the versatile and philosophic Franklin will be of interest : "Philadelphia, February 28, 1753. * * * "I believe I have not before told you that I have provided a subscription here of £1,500 to fit out a vessel in search of a Northwest passage. She sails in a few days, and is called the "Argo," commanded by Mr. Swaine, who was in the last expedition in the "California," and author of a Journal of that voyage in two volumes. We think the attempt laudable, whatever maj^ be the success. If she fails, ^Maguis- tamen excidit ausis.' With great esteem, "Benj. Franklin." "Mr. Cadwalader Colden, N. Y." Again, in 1772, notwithstanding the troublous times in the American colonies, the northwest passage was looked for by Captain Wilder, commanding the brig "Diligence." The pro- moters of the enterprise were a company of private gentlemen of Virginia. The brig, after scouring the northern and western shores of Hudson's Bay, was driven back by the ice, and after ascending Davis' Strait to latitude 69° 11' returned to Virginia. A gallant young quartermaster of the Hudson Bay Com- pany at Fort Churchill, having explored the northern portion of Hudson Bay and made valuable improvements of the fish- eries in the same region, was thereupon despatched, in Novem- ber, 1769, to search for the reputed copper mines and the northwest passage. Rich specimens of the copper ore had been brought to Fort Churchill by some of the Indian traders and therefore this young officer, Hearne by name, with two white companions and some of the Indians set out upon the journey with great expectations. He had not pro- ceeded more than two hundred miles when supplies began 88 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; to fail and the Indian assistants to leave him. Returning to the fort he again started on his journey in February, 1770, with five Indians alone. At the end of five hundred miles they began to suffer great privations. Hearne writes: "It was either "all feasting or ail famine. * * * ^ye have fasted, many times, two whole days and nights; twice, upward of three days, and once, near seven days, during which we tasted not a mouthful of anj^thing except a few cranberries, water, scraps of old leather, and burnt bones.'' Finally arriving in latitude 63° 10', and about eleven de- grees west of Fort Churchill, he proposed to winter among a friendly tribe of Indians. Unfortunatelj^ breaking his quad- rant and notwithstanding the terrible sufferings alread}^ un- dergone, he retraced his weary course to the fort, refitted, and once more set out on the 7th of December. Arriving on the banks of one of the Great Slave Lake series, he constructed a canoe and descended what is now" known as the Coppermine Eiver to its outlet. Coronation Gulf, into the Arctic Ocean, latitude 68° 30', "The Ocean," Hearne sa3^s, "was full of islands and shoals as far as I could observe with a good telescope." A sad scene in connection with this brilliant journey was the TORTURE AND MASSACRE of about twenty unsuspecting Eskimos by his Indian allies, and for whom the Indians of those regions cherish an invet- erate hatred. Says Hearne: "Finding all the Esquimaux quiet in their tents, they rushed forth from their ambuscade and fell on the poor unsuspecting creatures, unperceived till close to the eaves of their tents, when they soon began the bloody massacre, w^hile I stood neuter in the rear." Hearne was even unable to save the life of a young girl who had fled to him for protection, while an old woman was painfull}- mu- tilated by having her eyes plucked out before she was killed. Hearne was absent on this trip almost a year and seven months, arriving at Fort Churchill June 30, 1772. Three years later he was made Governor of the place. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 89 Among the noteworthy discoveries made by Hearne was information, obtained from the Eskimos of Marble Island, in 1769, concerning the FATE OF THE OLD GOVERNOR, James Knight, whose expedition we have previously m>en- tioned. From Hearne's account we glean the following: "When the vessels arrived at this place it was very late in the fall (of 1719), and in getting them into the harbor the largest received much damage; but on being fairly in, the English began to build a house, their number at that time seeming to be about fifty. As soon as the ice permittetd in the following summer (1720), the Esquimaux paid them another visit, by which time the number of the English was greatly reduced, and those that were living seemed very unhealthy. According to the account given hj the Esquimaux they were Yerj busily employed, but about what the}' could not easily describe; probably in lengthening the long boat, for at a little distance from the house there was now (1769) lying a great quantity of oak chips, which most assuredly had been made by carpenters." The account goes on to relate that SICKNESS AND FAMINE made such havoc among the English that by the summer of 1721 but five remained alive. Meanwhile, the Eskimos had supplied them, as they were able, with seal meat and whale's blubber. Finally, of the five who remained alive, three ate so ravenously of raw whale's blubber after a prolonged fast during the absence of the Eskimos on the mainland, that they died. The other two lived a long time after this and frequently ascended a high rock and looked long and earnestly southward and eastward as if expecting the arrival of a ship. They would then sit down together and weep bitterly. At length one of the two died and his companion, in digging a grave for him, fell down exhausted and died also. The skulls and other bones of these two men were then (1769) lying above ground, close to the house. 90 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; The last to die was, accordiug to the Eskimos, always working iron into implements for them. He was probably the armorer, or smith. Lying just beneath the Arctic Circle in the territorj^ con- tiguous to the northwestern portion of Hudson's Bay, is a river-like indentation. With its discovery, in 1742, by Cap- tain Middleton, the problem of the northwest passage was doubtless supposed to be settled. Its termination in an unpopulated district was soon determined, however, and al- though but a bay opening into Roe's Welcome, as the channel separating Southampton Island from the mainland is called, it bears the name of Wager River. Four j^ears later, Messrs. Moore and Smith, having also in- dulged in a "search" for the northwest passage, pronounced it "as chimerical as one of Don Quixote's projects." In June, 1773, Captain C. J. Pliipps, known later as Lord Mulgrave, with instructions to proceed to the North Pole, or as near to it as iDOSsible, on a meridian, found himself bound for Spitzbergen, where he arrived July 4tli. Five days later he had attained 80° 36', but on the 31st was stopped hj the ice. By August Ctli he had retreated to the Seven Islands, off the northwest coast of Spitzbergen, whence he returned to England in the following month. What schoolboy has not read of Captain John Cook and his tragic death while endeavoring to circumnavigate the globe? But how few, even among the best informed persons of mature years, are acquainted with the fact that it was the object of the great navigator to perform that voyage by way of the northwest passage? With explicit instructions to sail immediately to latitude G5° in the North Pacific, which would bring him well into Bering Strait, he was to endeavor to complete the circuit through some channel leading eastward from the Arctic to the Atlantic Ocean. Finely equipped, he sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, and, a few weeks later, was joined at the Cape of Good Hope by Captain Clerke. December 12th he passed Prince Edward's OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 91 Island, arriving at Kerguelen Land twelve days later. Hav- ing determined this to be an island and not a continent, as liad been supposed by Kerguelen, he renamed it the Island of Desolation. From this point the vessels continued east- ward THROUGH NINE HUNDRED MILES OF DENSE FOG, and separation was avoided only through the incessant sound- ing of signals. January 2G, 1777, found them in Tasmania, then called Van Dieman's Land, and on Februarj^ 12, in New Zealand. March 29th they were among the Cook Islands. The season was now so far advanced that Captain Cook now decided not to hasten farther north that year, and accord- ingly^ spent three months among the peaceful inhabitants of the Feejee and neighboring islands. The groups he collective- ly denominated the Friendly Islands. On August 12th he arrived among the Society Islands, lying about two degrees north of the Tropic of Capricorn, from which group he voyaged almost due north, until, at a point two degrees south of the Tropic of Cancer, on January 18, 1778, he discovered the WORLD-RENOWNED HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO. These, in honor of John Montague, Earl of Sandwich, the chief promoter of the expedition, he named the Sandwich Islands. Sailing thence he arrived, March 7th, off the coast of the New Albion of Drake, in latitude 44° 33', a point on the coast of Oregon, nearly opposite Salem, the capital of the State. On Van Couver's Island, latitude 49° 35', he found the inhabitants clad in furs. They were friendly, and shrewd in barter, were acquainted with iron, but esteemed brass more highly and readily exchanged furs for the brass buttons on the men's garments. Ten degrees farther north Cook found the inhabitants to resemble, both in language and physical appearance, the Es- kimos of Hudson Ray. A narrow bay, now known as Cook Inlet, was discovered. 92 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; and supposed to lead to the "Northern" (Arctic) Ocean, but, upon exploration, was found to terminate about two hundred miles within the interior. August lOtli Cook arrived at and named the northwestern- most point in America, Cape Prince of Wales, and measured the distance thence to the northeasternmost point in Asia, Cape East. This distance, he ascertained to be thirty-nine geographical miles, or somewhat more than forty-three statute miles. He landed, but did not long remain among the Chook-chees. Proceeding northward, he reached latitude 70° 44', where he was stopped at the edge of the impenetrable and expansive ice field, forty feet in thickness, and covered with A BLACK MASS OF V^ALRUSES as far as the eje could reach. Captain Cook then returned to the Sandwich Islands, ar- riving at Hawaii November 30th. Seven weeks now followed in circumnavigating and surveying this island, after which the vessels came to anchor and were visited by large crowds of natives. During the more than six months which the English spent here increasingly friendly relations existed between the men of the expedition and the islanders. Captain Cook con- gratulated himself that the failure to penetrate within the Arctic Ocean had nevertheless given him an opportunity of becoming fully acquainted with these, the most important islands of the Mid-Pacific. An additional supply of fresh provisions having been laid in, on- the 4th of September the vessels weighed anchor for a survey of the entire group. Unfortunately a storm arose and compelled their return in order to repair damage done to the "Resolution." Incidents now occurred which led to the HORRIBLE DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK. A pair of tongs having been stolen from the smith's forge, a party of men were sent to recover the stolen property, but OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD: 93 were roughly handled by a mob of the natives. Soon one of the ship's boats was stolen. Cook now took Te-ree-o-boo, the King, prisoner, as a host- age, for the good conduct of his people and the return of the missing projjerty. The King, accompanied by his two sons, peaceably submitted and accompanied Captain Cook to the shore. Here the natives endeavored to prevent the embarka- tion. Now it was that a most untimely accident PRECIPITATED A CONFLICT. A shot fired in order to prevent the embarkation of a native canoe killed Ka-ree-moo, one of the chiefs. The frenzied pop- ulace, putting on their war-mats and brandishing their knives, at once led to the attack. Cook restrained his men from firing until it was too late. Closely pressed by one of the savages. Captain Cook himself fired a musket charged with small shot, which only served to render his assailants more furious. The crew and marines now fired upon the mob, who crowded each other on so closely to the men that firearms were useless. In the turmoil four of the English were killed. Just as Captain Cook was endeavoring to reach the boat a native was seen to deal him a blow with a club and then to retreat precipitately. Dropping his musket and falling upon one knee, the Captain was in the act of again rising when one of his assailants stabbed him in the back of the neck. Falling into the water, the savage crowd endeavored to hold him down. Bravely he struggled and got his head above the crimson-colored surface, but was immediately pushed into deeper water. Once more he fought his way to the top only to be struck down for the third and last time. The unequal conflict over, the natives dragged his bod}^ ashore and muti- lated it in a most fiendish manner. Some time after this. Captain Clerke, then in command, re- covered the body, which was committed to the sea with the customary naval honors and amid the heartfelt grief of the crews. Captain Cook KNEW HOW TO COMMAND men; he cared for them and elicited their esteem and confi- 7 94 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; clence. His unselfishness secured in return the generous love of those whom he commanded. Leaving Hawaii, Captain Gierke passed northward through Bering Strait to latitude 70° 33', where ice was encountered twenty miles lower dow^n than on the year previous. Coast- ing southward along Kamchatka, Caj^tain Clerke died and was buried on shore. Captain Gore then assumc^d command and sailed to Canton, China, where the furs obtained from the Eskimos on the north- west coast of America two years before, were sold at great profit, some |10,000 being realized. This was the beginning of the fur trade of the Pacific. Captain Gore then sailed to Eng- land, arriving there October, 1780, after an absence of over four 3' ears. Step by step, that is, lake by lake and stream by stream, was the vast territory of the Hudson Ba,y Company explored by various trappers and traders. One of these, Alexander Mackenzie, setting out from Lake Athabaska in June, 1789, with a ]»aity of Canadians and Indians DISCOVERED THE MACKENZIE RIVER and followed it to its outlet into the Arctic Ocean, latitude 68° 50'. From having seen several whales sporting on the ice they named the island on which they were encamped Whale Island. When, on July 3, 1721, with forty Danish families, Hans Egede, a zealous missionar}'^, arrived off the west coast of Greenland and established the settlement of Godthaab, in latitude 64°, the DANISH POSSESSION OP GREENLAND may be said to have begun. Notwithstanding Egede had spent his entire fortune and King Ferdinand IV. had assisted him with an annual contribution of f200 and the missionary board with |300 more, in his efforts to propagate the GOSPEL AMONG THE ESKIMOS, the Government, shortly after the death of Ferdinand, in 1730, OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 95 took measures to break up the financially unprofitable colony. In 1733, however, largely through the efforts of the renowned Count Zinzendorf, founder of the religious community known as the Moravians, King Christian VI. was led to take a re- newed interest in the colony and among other good deeds he gave to it an annuity of |2,000, entrusting its proper dis-l posal to three of the Moravian brethren. The noble Egede"* returned to Denmark in 1735, where he died in 1758, aged seventy-two. During his sojourn in Greenland he had found the ruins of houses and churches, bespeaking the earlier pres- ence of the Norsemen, but he was unable to find among the Eskimos even a tradition of their former occupancy of the region. Captain Loewenorn, who visited the east coast of Greenland in 1786, was not more successful. THIRTY ARCTIC VOYAGES would seem quite enough for one man to make, but for the same man to have a son of precisely the same name to con- tinue the same perilous work in generally the same region, without startling accident to either, is quite "startling" in itself. It certainly bespeaks not only good seamanship but also good luck. Such is the history of CAPTAINS WILLIAM SCORESBY, Senior and Junior. The elder, at the age of thirty-one, made his first voyage to Greenland in 1791. In 1806 he made, in "Greenland Sea," latitude 81° 12', while still stretching into the unknown north was "a great openness, or sea of water." This was the "farthest north" yet made at that tinie, and by im- proving the opportunity of pushing on through the great "sea of water," he might have become known as the discoverer of the North Pole. Being on a whaling-voyage merely he did not feel at libert}^ to do so. In 1817 he touched upon the east coast of Greenland, above 70°, but did not land, although it was easy to have done so. On one of his later voyages, how- ever, he went ashore, and Scoresby Sound printed upon all 96 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; charts is in honor of the event. He was a very successful whaling-master. On one voyage alone he is said to have ob- tained thirty-six whales. He died in 1829, at the age of sixty- nine. WILLIAM SCORESBY, JR., beginning a seafaring life at the age of ten under the ex- perienced eye of his father, was in command of a whaler — the "Resolution" — just before attaining his majority. When off Spitzbergen on one occasion, near Cape Mitre, he made the perilous ascent of a mountain overlooking the sea at the giddy height of 3,000 feet. When near the summit, the ridge was so narrow and the sides so precipitous that he was OBLIGED TO STRADDLE THE MOUNTAIN, as it were, and advance by working his hands and legs. On the east coast, he came upon large quantities of skulls and bones of foxes, seals, walruses, norwhales, and whales; also two Russian lodges, then recently inhabited, and the ruins of an older one. In the vast accumulation of rock debris at the base of the cliffs, the sea-birds, in great numbers, had built their nests. A species of green fly was seen. Shrimps and medusae were abundant in the water along the coast. He also found two species of one of the sub-orders of sea-weeds. From a DEAD WHALE STRANDED on the coast he obtained |2,000 worth of oil and blubber, not- withstanding its decayed condition. In its body was an har- poon which Scoresby judged to have been driven into the huge creature by the fishermen at the mouth of the Elbe. Es- caping, it had made its way through more than 1,500 miles of water before dying. In 1822, Scoresby made his eighteenth, last, and most im- portant voyage. This was to the east coast of Greenland, north of the region explored by his father. The name of SCORESBY'S LAND commemorates his geographical services in that region, while (1.) West Outlet of Fury and Hecla Strait, from West End of Arahorst Island. (2.) Eskimo Ice House, Is-loo-Iik, 182:^— Lyon. (3.) Tak-kee-lik-kee-tali, '—Lyon. (4.) Eskimos of Ig-loo-lik— Lyon. (5.) Eskimos of Ig-loo- (6.) Nak-ka-hu and His Wife, Oom-na— Lyon. (See Chapter VIII.) Is-loo-lik, 1823 lik, 1823- Lyon. r~" (1.) Eskimos Building au Ig-loo, or Snow Hut -Lyon. (2.) Children Dancins;, Ig-loo-lik, 1823— Lyon. (3.) "Hecla" and "Fury" August 1, 1825— Head. (4.) Sail- ittg Through Young Ice— Hoppner, (5.) Southeast End of Southernmost of Prince Leopold's Islands— Head. (6.) Heaving Down the " Fury," August 18, 1825- Head. (See Chapter X.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 97 WM. SCORESBY, JR. FERDINAND VON WRANGEL,L,. EARLY ARCTIC EXPLORERS. 98 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Roscoe Mountains, and Capes Lister, Swainson and Hope, in honor of Roscoe, poet, historian, law-giver and banker; Lister, optician and merchant; Swainson, celebrated naturalist; and Hope, distinguished writer — names all bestowed upon locali- ties discovered by himself, indicate the character of his home associates and the trend of his own mind. At each of these places he was able to see and describe much: mountains, ma- jestic and grand, 3,000 feet high; a rich Arctic flora; recently- abandoned Eskimo huts with ashes and charred driftwood still upon the hearth, while flocks of the now-extinct (?) great auk and other sea-fowls, and SWARMS OF MOSQUITOES, BUTTERFLIES, BEES, and other insects, and bones of hare, reindeer and dog, all bore testimony to the abundance of life beyond the seventy- first degree of north latitude. Scoresby also visited and studied the mist-enveloped Jan Mayen, with its seven great glaciers sweeping irresistibh' dow-n its sides to the water's edge, its volcano, and its Mount Beerenberg, more than a mile high, standing guard over its solitary isle as if warding it against the ceaseless attack of devouring ice. Returning to England, Scoresby BECAME A CLERGYMAN and was made a doctor of divinity in 1839. His interest in science led him to make valuable contributions concerning the hydrography, meteorology, and natural sciences of the Arctic regions. In the investigation of the application of ter- restrial magnetism to navigation he VISITED THE UNITED STATES in 1847, and Australia in 1853. He was always a warm ex- ponent of Arctic research auct to Baffin's Bay, and then, if possible, to i)enetrate the ice of the Arctic Ocean to Bering Strait. Thus would the northwest passage be made to connect with the northeast route and the earth be circumnavigated, as it were, in Arctic ice. Having passed Upernavik, in latitude 72" 40', the northern- most Danish settlement, on the west coast of Greenland, as indeed the northernmost permanent white settlement hi tlie world. Captain Ross made a more accurate surve^^ of the coast embracing Melville Bay, than had previously been made. When about 200 miles farther on, in latitude 75° 54', and on the northern shore of Melville Ba}^, he DISCOVERED THE NORTHERNMOST PEOPLE IN THE WORLD, the descendants of whom — children, grandchildren and great- grandchildren — now comprise the famous Etah Eskimos of 100 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Kane and Hayes, and whom the writer of these pages came to know personally and by name while in their midst as a mem- ber of the Peary Expedition to North Greenland in 1893-4, but eoncerning whom accounts following will be given. When first seen, this strange tribe became greatly alarmed at sight of the vessels and the English. For, although but a short distance from -the Danish settlements, they had never before seen or heard of other people than themselves and sup- posed that they were the only inhabitants of the earth. Know- ing nothing of wood, nor of the art of constructing canoes, they supposed both the ships and the people upon them to be supernatural beings, and, ADDRESSING THE VESSELS AS THOUGH ALIVE, inquired: "Who are you? and whence come jou, from the sun (shuck-ah-nah), or from the moon (ah-ning-ah-nah)?" Although these people knew nothing of wood, thej em- ployed iron in the manufacture of rude knives. The metal, they explained to Ross, was obtained from a mountain of the Melville Bay coast, and w^as secured by chipping or breaking off portions of a large slab or block. This is supposed to be of meteoric origin — a supposition quite probable since, as is well known to all meteorologists, bodies of such source fre- quently contain ninety-six per cent of iron in their composi- tion. Wliile at Anniversary Lodge the writer frequently dis- cussed the location of the stone discovered by Ross, the na- tives cheerfully conveying all desired information concern- ing it and holding themselves ready to point it out upon re- quest. W^e desired greatly to visit the locality, but the privi- lege was not accorded. Mr. Peary himself, however, made the coveted pilgrimage w^ith another companion, and, with the assistance of the natives, saw the precious stone. Ross also noted the curious CRIMSON-COLORED SNOW covering the cliffs of the northern shore of Melville Bay and carried samples of it to England, which, upon careful and oft- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. . 101 repeated tests was found to be ordinary snow filled with a vast aggregation of a peculiar red-colored fungus growth. Whatever little Koss ma^- have done in the way of explor- ing the shores of Melville Bay — the "Hell Gate" of Arctic navi- gation in the Bahin's Bay region — it remained for Mr. Astrup, of Christiania, Norwa^^, our talented young comrade and com- panion of the Peary Expedition of 1893-4, to survey and chart completely, with the assistance of a single native, Kool-e-ting- wah, who, although employed as dog-driver and hunter, was nevertheless treated as a companion and friend. Leaving Melville Bay, Ross sailed past Wostenholm, Whale and Smith sounds, on the west and north sides of Baflfln's Bay, giving them scarcely a "passing notice," and then, south- ward, along the unobstructed west side of the bay, to Lan- caster Sound. This channel, fiftj' miles in width at its out- let, he ascended for about thirty miles, when, to the ASTONISHMENT AND DISAPPOINTMENT of officers and men, he turned back, although the way before him was clear for about twenty-five miles. Beyond this, a range of mountains seemed to terminate the sound — an ap-, pearance caused by atmospheric refraction and which prob- ably led Ross to the erroneous conclusion. He then sailed farther southward along the coast without giving it attention and entered Cumberland Sound, where he exhibited the same censurable indifference. He then returned to England. His failure lay in not taking advantage of the opportunities afforded by an unusually mild season. KNIFE WHICH HAD BEEN USED IN SKULI^SCRAPING. 102 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER V. PARRY'S FIRST VOYAGE. Born in 1790, the same year that gave to the world the junior Seoresby, and in command of a vessel at about the same age, self-educated, and master of the nautical and astronomical sciences of the day, second in command of the lloss expedition in 1818 and among those who shared in the disappointments at its results. Lieutenant W. E. Parrj^, although but twenty-nine years of age, found himself at the head of another expedition in search of the NORTHWEST PASSAGE, a route of ocean-travel which he believed to be feasible and not to be despaired of finding till after a thorough exploration bf Lancaster Sound. According!}' on the 3d of July, 1819, we find his two vessels, the "Hecla" and "Griper," within the Arc- tic Circle, and in almost constant struggle with the ice of Baf- fin's Bay till on the 29th tlie}^ succeeded in getting into clear water on the west side. Here the line struck bottom at a depth of 1,8G0 feet and the whales were very numerous, eighty- two having been counted in one day. On the 31st they arrived in Possession Bay, near the mouth of LANCASTER SOUND, where the flag-staif deposited by Ross in the previous year was visited. The men's tracks were still fresh in the sand and' gravel and the flag-staff remained uninjured. An exploring party sent three or four miles into the interior to search for possible timber returned reporting the region treeless. The party saw, however, many ground-plants thriving in moist places, a fox, a raven, a bee, ring-plovers, and snow-buntings. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT AVHJTE WORLD. 103 Proceeding, they were soon in the somewhat warmer waters of the sound. Sajs Parry: ^'It is more easy to imagine than describe the almost breathless anxiety, which was now visible in every countenance, while as the breeze increased to a fresh gale, we ran quickly up the sound. The mast-heads were crowded by the ohicers and men during the whole afternoon; and an unconcerned observer, if any could have been uncon- cerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the eagerness with which the various reports from the crow's nest were received; all, however, hitherto favorable to our most sanguine hopes." August 5th the vessels were off Leopold Island, at the northeast corner of North Somerset Island, and in the north- west angle of a Jong channel of water running-^ southward and named by Parry PRINCE REGENT'S INLET. Having met the ice at Leopold Island, Parry turned south, sailing 120 miles, to the opening of the inlet into the wider ex- panse of water known as the Gulf of Boothia and extending 300 miles beyond in a southwesterly direction. Here he again met the ice and, at Cape Kater, longitude 90° 29' west and lati- tude 72° 13' north, on the east side of the inlet, located the farthest south point attained. In this region the compasses became sluggish and the great variations caused by local at- tractions rendered them useless. A quantity of iron-stone found on the shore attracted the magnet powerfully. Parry therefore decided to return to Lancaster Sound, and wdiile sail- ing along the east coast of the inlet on the 13th, entered a natural harbor one mile wide and three deep, named by him Port Bowen. tiere were seen ducks and clovekies and NORWALS IN GREAT NUMBERS. A bottle containing a record of his proceedings was deposited and covered with a quantity of shaly limestone, which was found to be abundant in the locality. August 17th the vessels were off the headland projecting into the northeast corner of the inlet at its junction with Lan- 104 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; RECICKS CHART OF THE ARCTIC OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. lOf OcEAy . 106 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; caster ^ound. This headland Parry called Cape York. On the next day they were sailing westward on the north side of the sonnd and soon entered its continnation named b}' Parr^' BARROW'S STRAIT, opening on the north side of which he discovered on the 22d two remarkable channels, the largest of which, twenty-four miles wide at its outlet, he named WELLINGTON CHANNEL. (continuing westward, Cornwallis, Bathurst, and Byam Martin islands were soon discovered, the last-named being examined on the 28th b3^ Captain Sabine, Mr. James C, Ross, nephew to Sir John Koss, afterwards celebrated, and by others. The party made various observations and a collection of natural history specimens. Moss in abundance was found in the moist valleys and on the banks of streams flovring from the hills. Tracks, skeletons, skulls, and horns of musk oxen, reindeer, and bears were observed. The ruins of six ESKIMO HUTS DISCOVERED are thus described by Captain Sabine: They were "on a level, sandy bank, at the side of a small ravine near the sea," and built "of stones rudely placed in a circular or elliptical form. They were from seven to ten feet in diameter; the broad, flat sides of the stones standing vertically, and the whole structure, if such it may be called, being exactly similar to that of the summer huts of the Esquimaux which we had seen at Hare Island the preceding year. Attached to each of them was a smaller circle, generally four or five feet in diameter, which had probably been the fireplace. The small circles were placed indifferently as to their direction from the huts to which they belonged; and from the moss and sand which covered some of the stones, particularly those which composed the flooring of the huts, the whole encampment appeared to have been deserted for several years." OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 107 September 1st a fine, large island was discovered and named MELVILLE ISLAND. Upon it were seen herds of reindeer and musk oxen, but, being frightened by a dog, they fled, and none were secured. It was very apparent that upon the island was an abundance of life, for there were the tracks of bears, the skulls, skins and horns of reindeer and musk oxen, burrows of FOXES AND FIELD-MICE: flocks of ducks, geese, and snow-buntings, while of ptarmigans, several were shot. At the beach there were various kinds of shells and an immense quantity of shrimps. The magnetic observations made here and compared with those made in Prince Kegeut's Inlet, says Captain Sabine, the astronomer of the expedition, ^'lecl to the conclusion that we had, in sailing over the space included between the two me- ridians, crossed immediately to the northward of the magnetic pole, and had undoubtedly passed over one of those spots upon the globe where the needle would have been found to vary 180°, or, in other words, where its north pole would have pointed due south. This spot would, in all probabilit}', at this time be somewhere not far from the meridian of 100 west of Greenwich." On September 4th the vessels passed longitude 110° west, and therefore became entitled to the BOUNTY OF £5,000 granted by Parliament as a stimulus for more effectively de- termining longitude at sea, discovering the northwest passage or approaching the North Pole, to any who should pass the 110th meridian west from Greenwich. To the bold projection on the south shore of the island was applied, in honor of the event, the name of BOUNTY CAPE. Here, on the 5th, being stopped by ice, the anchor was let go 108 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; for the first time since leaving England, and that in longitude 110° west On the 6th a boat was sent ashore to procure turf, or peat, for fuel, and some small pieces of GOOD COAL were picked up in various places. About three-fourths of a mile from the shore two herds of musk oxen were seen — one of nine and the other of five; while, at a distance, were also observed two reindeer. On the 8th several grouse and a w^hite hare were killed. There were also seen field-mice, snow-buntings, a snowj-owl, a fox, four musk oxen, ducks, gulls, terns, and a seal. It was very evident that this island was visited if not inhabited by MUSK OXEN IN GREAT NUMBERS, for their bones and horns lay scattered in every direction and the carcass of one was found. The skulls of a wolf and a lynx were picked up and a half bushel of coal was gathered. On September 10th, Mr. Fyfe, the master-pilot, and six other men from the "Griper" went ashore to explore the island, taking with them provisions for but one day. After being absent two days fears were entertained for their safety, and Messrs. Keid, Beverh^ and Wakeman having volunteered to ■ search for them, went ashore for that purpose. They them- selves, how^ever, BECAME LOST, and, guided by fires, lights, and rockets from the ships returned without the missing ones. Accordingly on the 13th four search-parties were organized and before nightfall the lost men were found and returned to the ships in an exhausted condition. They had killed man^^ grouse, however, and had not suffered greatly through lack of food. In the center of the ishmd they had found fertile valleys and level plains abounding with grass and moss; also a fresh- water lake two miles in length by one in width, in w^hich were several species of trout. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 10^ They had also seen several herds of reindeer, many hares and two elks. The search-parties saw many herds of musk-oxen. Lieutenant Parry now decided to go into winter-quarters, and accordingly on the 26th of September the anchors were dropped in thirty feet of water in a laud-locked harbor at a cable's length from shore in longitude 110° 48' 2" west and latitude 74° 47' north. In order to get the ships into harbor it was first necessary- to cut a channel nearly two and a half miles long through the "young" ice nearly eight and a half inches thick, and when the ships had reached their moorings the men cheered heartily. Their haven was called simply WINTER HARBOR, and Parry designated the group of islands which he had dis- covered, the North Georgian Islands, after George TIL, but they have since been named the Parry Islands. During the month of October many reindeer were seen and several shot; a wolf was seen and a fox caught. As cold weather was now upon them, the heating arrange- ments were looked after, and b}^ utilizing the steam boilers and a system of tubing the ninety-four jnen were made as comfortable in their quarters, so far as heat and food are concerned, as could have been desired. In order to maintain a fraternal feeling among all on board, the 3'ouug commander allowed no discrimination to be made, either as to quantity or quality of food, between the officers and men. Moreover, he himself joined heartily in various plans set on foot for the purpose of passing away the long, dark months. Among these were a series of theatrical exhibitions, given every two weeks, a school, and the publication of a daih^ (except Sunday) newspaper called the "Winter Chronicle, or North Georgia Gazette." During the day portion of each twenty-four hours, the men were variously employed in scrubbing the decks, passing inspection, banking up the ships with snow, walking for exer- cise on shore, mending clothes, repairing sails or performing- other ship work, etc. 8 110 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; On January 12th the thermometer sank to — 51°F. in the open air. This caused brandy to become AS THICK AS HONEY. Two days later the maximum cold was experienced, viz., — 52°F. On February 3d, from the top of the main-mast, fifty-one feet above the sea, the sun w^as seen for the first time in eighty- four days. On the 24th the observatory was nearly destroyed by fire. John Smith, Parry's servant, in assisting Sergeant Martin to save the dipping-needle, had his hand so severely frozen that, vf hen taken on board by Mr. Edwards and his hands placed in water, ice immediately formed on the surface of the water by the intense cold thus suddenly imparted to it. Later, it was made necessary to ami^utate four fingers of one hand and three of the other. March 8th more than one hundred bucketsful of ice, each containing from four to five gallons, were removed from the ships' sides, this being the condensation of the vapor of the men's breaths and from the victuals in four weeks' time. In order to assist in preventing the ravages of scurvy Parry grew in his own cabin a small garden of mustard and cress and distributed it among the men. April 30th the thermometer again touched the melting- point, the first time since September 12th. On the next day the midnight sun, the SUN THAT NEITHER SETS NOR RISES, was seen. On this day also, the rations, as a matter of pru- dence, were reduced to two-thirds of the stated allowance ex- cept in the matter of meat and sugar. The expedition had now^ been absent a year — half the time for which it was pro- visioned. The men were now set to cutting the ice from around the vessels. It was seven feet thick and so heavy that when freed from it the ships immediately ro^e two feet in the OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. Ill water. The men at this time suft'ered severely from the effect of SNOW BLINDNESS, a sensation similar to that caused by sand or dust in the eyes. As a remedy sugar of lead or other cooling lotions were used. On May 24th all were surprised at two showers that fell, and those below hurried on deck to renew the sensation of seeing, and getting wet in, the rain. About this time the scurvy made its appearance, having attacked one of the sailors, who, it appeared, had been in the habit of eating the fat skimmings, or "slush," from the water in which salt meat had been boiled. June 1st Lieutenant Parry, Captain Sabine, Dr. Fisher, Messrs. Mas and Reid, midshipmen, two sergeants, and five seamen and marines set out to explore the island. On a cart drawn by the men were carried three weeks' provisions, wood for fuel, and two tents, altogether weighing about 800 pounds. They traveled by night — when the sun was circling low on the northern arc of the horizon — ^and slept during the warmer period of the day. On the 2d at a lake one-half mile long eider ducks and ptarmigans were met with and seven of the ptarmi- gans killed. From the tops of the hills could be seen the masts of the "Hecla" and the "Griper" eleven or twelve miles in the distance. To the north and west of them extended a great plain. They now breakfasted on biscuit and a pint of gruel made of salep powder for each man. Reindeer and fawns were frequently seen as they jour- neyed. Captain Sabine became affected with a bowel complaint and was therefore drawn upon the cart. The men were greatly assisted in the work of pulling the vehicle by the use of a tent- blanket used as a sail. On the Ttli the party arrived at the head of a long inlet v/hich was named the Hecla and Griper Bay. Cutting through the ice, which was fourteen and a half feet thick, the water was found to be brackish and therefore it was concluded that the bay was an arm of the ocean. An island seen in the dis- 112 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; tauce was named after Captain Sabine, while otlier features were named after various members of tlie party. Tliat tliere had been periods of open water was proven by the DISCOVERY OF FIR-WOOD, consisting of a pole seven and a half feet long and three or four inches thick. It was found eight}^ 3^ards inland and thirty feet above the level of the sea. It had probably jour- ue^'ed from the opposite coast of Russia or Siberia. Before leaving the ba}^ a stone cairn twelve feet high and as many feet in diameter was erected. In it was deposited a tin cylinder containing a record of their proceedings, besides several coins and naval buttons. Leaving the bay, the party traveled southward, bearing to the west. Many ptarmigans were shot and afforded excellent additions to their daily rations. The tracks and horns of rein- deer were very numerous. Finally, a very long inlet was reached and named Liddon Gulf in honor of the commalider of the "Griper," while the two capes at its extremity were called Beechey and Iloppner, after lieutenants of the "Hecla" and the "Griper" respectiveh^ The shores of the gulf were high and precipitous. The cart was broken and the wheels were abandoned there, the other parts being carried along for fuel. In the center of the -gulf and rising abruptly on its western side to a height of seven hundred feet was discovered a barren island of sandstone three-fourths of a mile in length. It was named in honor of Mr. Hooper, the purser of the "Hecla." Here were killed FOUR FAT GEESE and a great many animals seen. A fine valley was discovered and in it were many tracks of reindeer and musk oxen. The pasturage was excellent. On the 13th several ptarmigans and golden plovers were killed. A herd of not less than thirteen reindeer, and a musk-ox, were seen. Gn this same day .SIX ESKIMO HUTS were also discovered and are thus described : "They consisted of rude circles, about six feet in diameter, constructed irregu- (1.) Vale of Clearwater River, from the Methye Portage, descent 1,000 feet in 36 miles— Back. (2.) Mackenzie River— Kendall. (3.) Rapids, Mackenzie River, September, 1826— Back. (4.) Fort Franklin, Great Bear Lake, October 16, 1826— Kendall. (5.) Winter View of Fort Franklin— Back. (6.) Eskimos Approaching Boats, Shoalwater Bay, July 7, 1S26— Back. (See Chapter Xl.) 5,,«f»«»K»B*«i -.^^3Wi8gftj> (1.) Boats Getting Afloat — Back. (2.) A^aia Agr>)niul in Sboalwator liay at Midnigbt, July 7, 182t)— Back. (3.) First Detention by Ice— Back. (4.) Young Eskimo Woman of Tribe West of Mackenzie Eiver, July 9. 1826~Back. (5.) Eski- mos West of the Mackenzie, July 9, 1826— Back. (6.) Winter House of Eskimo, Drawn July 12, 1826-Back. (See Chapter XI.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 113 larly of stones of all sizes and shapes, and raised to the height of two feet from the ground. They were paved with large slabs of white schistose-sandstone, which is here abundant. The moss had spread over this floor, and appeared to be the growth of three or four years. In each of the huts on one side was a small separate compartment forming a recess, projecting outward, which had probably been their storeroom; and at a few feet from one of the huts Avas a smaller circle of stones, which had composed the fireplace, the marks of fire being still perceptible upon them." Vegetation on the island now began to flourish. The saxi- frage was in blossom, while the sorrel was far advanced. Of this the men gathered and ate large quantities as a preventive of the scurvy. On the 15th Parry and his party returned to the ships after a journey of about 180 miles. Meanwhile the ships' crews had been busily employed in reloading ballast and re-stowing the holds. Hunting parties were now sent out in every direction. Dr. Fisher and two men constituted one of these. His part}', in the course of ten days, saw thirty deer, of w^hich they killed' but two, these being small and weighing when dressed about fifty or sixty pounds. They saw two wolves, several foxes, and many hares. Of the hares they killed but four, these averaging about seven and a half pounds in weight. They also saw brent geese, king ducks, long-tailed ducks, Arctic and glaucous gulls, ptarmigans, plovers, sanderlings, and snow- buntings. Although very wary, about a dozen geese were shot. Fifteen ptarmigans were also killed. About the 25th of June the grass was from two to three inches high, while the sorrel was so abundant that it required but a few minutes for the men to obtain enough for their din- ner-salads twice a week. The sorrel was eaten with vinegar, and, as we have already remarked, as a preventive of the scurvy. On June 30th, however, the death of William Scott, a boat- swain's mate, occurred. He died of scurvy and a complica- 114 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; tiou of other difficultieis. On the 2d of -July he was buried on shore with great respect and soleniity. Over his LONELY GRAVE w^as erected a saiidstione shib which had been suitabl}' in- scribed and engraved by Dr. Fislier. A funeral, however, was not the only occasion for religious observance among the officers and men of this expedition, for regularly every Sunday divine services were held and a sermon was read on both vessels. From the series of tidal observations made while at Winter Harbor it was found that the maximum of rise and fall of the tides was four feet and four inches. On July 14th a large cairn was erected on the most con- spicuous hill overlooking the sea and in it Avere deposited the usual notices, coins, etc., and on a large stone was engraved a notice of the wintering of the ships in the harbor. On the oOth the ice began to move from the bay in a body. August 1st the ships were clear of ice and sailing west- ward. On the Gth a landing was made, and during the fol- lowing night fourteen hares were killed, together with a num- ber of glaucous gulls, which were found with their young on a precipitous, isolated rock. The ice w^as very thick in this part of the sea and violent collisions took place among the huge floes. Great ice-cakes fiftv and SIXTY FEET IN THICKNESS lay stranded in vast heaps upon the beach. On the 9th a musk ox weighing over 700 pounds was killed. From it was obtained 421 pounds of fresh meat quite free from any taint of musk. The ships now moved on, making but slow progress through the ice-floes everywhere from forty to fifty feet thick. On the 15th and IGth they were off a precipitous headland on the southwest portion of the island which was named Cape Dun- das. In this locality Parry made his farthest w^est, longitude 113° 46' 43", latitude 74° 26' 25". To the southwest there ap- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 115 peared a bold rock-boimd coast rising abruptly through an otherwise unbroken exj^anse of ice and to it Parry gave the name of BANKS' LAND. On August 23d the ships fought their way through six miles of the most difficult ice navigation which Parry says he had ever known. On the 24th a landing was made and four out of a herd of seven musk bulls were killed. They averaged when weighed about 360 pounds. From the number of skulls and skeletons of these animals found in every direction it was inferred that they do not migrate from the island during the winter. The ice now compelled the ships to turn eastward and on the 26th they were off their old quarters in Winter Harbor. On August 30th Parry publicly announced his intention of re- turning to England. In the course of the first week in Sep- tember he met with some whaling-vessels in the west waters of Baffin's Bay and from them the home news was learned, among the information gained being that of the death of George III. After visiting a small band of Eskimos at the mouth of the River Clyde, longitude 69° west, latitude 70° 30' north, and in whose praise Parry writes enthusiastically, the expedition proceeded homeward, arriving at Peterhead, Scotland, October 30th, and a fortnight later at London. AEUOW TAK, b.NuW-bbAltK. THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: CHAPTER VI. FRANKLIN'S FIRST EXPEDITION. "Of obscure but respectable parentage!" Sucli is the ear- liest account of Sir John Franklin. Born in Lincolnshire, England, in 178(>, bnt four years be- fore Scoresby, Jr. and V/illiani E. Parry, he, like them, made the most of his time and rose rapidly to distinction. At first in- tended for the church, his father thought to cure him of a de- sire for a seafaring life b}"^ sending him on distant voyages. The experiences, instead, contirmed him in his inclinations toward a ''life on the ocean wave," and he accordingly entered the Ro3^al Navy, Like Parrj^, he was among those w^honi Great Britain sent to be thrashed by the Americans in the war of 1812 and was wounded in the fatal ATTACK ON NEW ORLEANS in 1815. Four years later we hear of him leading an expedi- tion for the purpose of "d(^termining latitudes and longitudes, and exploring the continent eastward from the Coppermine River," Sailing from London, in May, 1819, in a course of a few weeks the three ships under his command were off the coast of Creenland, Here the "Prince of Wales," in his immediate command, struck upon a reef and in spite of the utmost exer- tions of all on board and the constant working of the pumps, the vessel, now separated from her consorts in a gale, seemed doomed. Some women bound for the Hudson Bay's colonies gave heroic assistance during this trying period and merited the praise of the gallant Franklin, who says that their example OR, LIFE IN THE GREi^T WHITE WORLD. 117 did much to stimulate the efforts of the men in the unequal struggle. B}^ the timely use of oakum and canvas the hole was so greatly reduced in size that the pumps gained on the incoming water and the vessel overtook her companions and the damage was repaired. August 30tli Franklin arrived at YORK FACTORY, now known as Fort York. Among his party w^ere Dr. Richard- son and Messrs. Back and Hood, midshipmen in the navy. All three men were experienced navigators, but were also well adapted to tlie difficult w(n-k of exploration by land. From York Factory Franklin and party made the journey to Fort Chipewyan by way of the streams and lakes in the great depression leading to the Great Slave Lake. While ascending one of the streams Franklin, who was standing on one of the banks, was precipitated into the current and his life was saved with difficulty. In another of these rivers was found a small island on which was a quantity of iron-stone of such power as to render useless the compasses wlieu brought within range of its influence. The 13th of July found the entire party at Fort Chipewyan. Here they engaged sixteen Canadian voyageurs as assistants, and before the close of the month others had joined them, so that the entire party consisted of thirty-two, including three children. This number embraced three Indian interpreters, and three women, the wives of three of the voyageurs, who had been taken along for the purpose of making clothes and shoes for the men at the winter quarters. On August 2d the journey toward the Coppermine was be- gun. Great privations were endured and finally the Canadian VOYAGEURS REBELLED and refused to go fartlier unless provided with more food. Franklin, however, informed them that should any of them desert or otherwise hinder the progress of the expedition they would be severely dealt vrith. They "took the hint" and were ever afterwards faithful and performed excellent service. 118 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Somewhat later, old A-kai-tclio, a shrewd yet friendly Chipewyau chief who with some of his tribe had joined Frank- lin at the fort, declared that, owing to the near approach of winter, it would be hazardous to proceed farther. In vain Franklin argued the case and stated his desire to observe an eclipse that was about to occur nearer the sound of the Copper- mine. The old chief, however, informed Franklin that, should he persist in advancing farther, he would send some of his young men to accompany them, that it might not be said of the Indians that they had guided the white men to those barren regions and there left them to die alone. Hereupon Franklin decided to go into winter-quarters. This was on WINTER LAKE, situated between the source of the Yellow Knife River, the ascent of which from Great Slave Lake they had just com- pleted, and the head of the Coppermine River, the descent of which they desired to begin that season. On the 6th of October the officers took up their abode in a commodious log house which had been built. The roof and walls of the house were plastered with clay tempered before the lire with water, and frozen as it was daubed on. This rough plastering afterwards cracked, so as to admit the wind from every direction. Nevertheless, a good fire of fagots built in the capacious clay-built chimney rendered the quarters quite comfortable. By the end of the month the men had completed a house 34 feet by 18 for themselves. The encampment was named Fort Enterprise. Before the 15th of October one hundred deer had been killed and placed in the store-house, together with dried meat and one thousand pounds of suet. Moreover, the carcasses of eighty deer had been cached, that is, buried beneath heavy stones or timbers and thus protected from the wolves and other destroyers. In the meantime fishing was carried on with considerable success, about twelve hundred whitefish, each weighing from OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 119 two to three pounds, having been secured. They froze as they were taken from the ice, so tliat a blow or two with a hatchet or knife was sufficient to split them open, when the intestines might be removed in one solid lump. Even though frozen solid for nearly two days, upon being thawed before a fire the fish would "come to life again," that is, of course, simply re- cover their animation. The fishing season closed with the 5tli of November, owing to the severity of the weather. Shortly after going into winter-quarters Messrs. Back and Hood, with eight Canadians, an interpreter, and one Indian guide, made a journey to Point Lake, nearer the source of the Coppermine. They returned September 10th. About the same time Franklin and Richardson, witli a seaman named J. Hepburn, and two Indians, one of them being old Kaskar- rali, the guide, set out in the same direction. A reinanions were very generous, often giving np and not tasting of iisli and birds caught by themselves, saying: "We are accus- tomed to starvation and you are not." Says Rack in his narrative: "One of our men caught a fish, which, with the assistance of some weeds scraped from the rocks (tripe de roclie), which forms a glutinous substance, made us a tolerable supper; it was not of the most choice kind, yet OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 12J good enough for himgry men. While we were eating it, I per- ceived one of the women buwilv .employed scraping an ohl slvin, the contents of which her iinsband presented us with. They consisted of pounded meat, fat, and a greater proportion of Indian's and deer's hair than either; and, though such a mix- ture may not appear very alluring to an English stomach, it was thought a great luxury after three days' privation in these cheerless regions of America." On the 22d of June the entire party, having left Fort En- terprise, Avere DESCENDING THE COPPERMINE. Fortunateh', on the 25th, they succeeded in killing several musk oxen. As they journeyed the course of the stream be- came much contracted between precipitous banks from eighty to one hundred feet high. In this region the copper mines whence the Indians and Eskimos had obtained material for their spears and implements were visited. On the loth of July the mouth of the Coppermine was sight- ed from the top of a hill, and four days later the party arrived there. It was choked with ice and full of islands. Meanwhile, constant watch was kept to discover the pres- ence of any Eskimos in this region and to avoid any collision between them and their own Indian allies, who had, howevei", lu'oniised not to disturb their more defenseless, yet detested neighbors of the north. The officers gladly took turus in main- taining these watches and it was while Dr. Eichardsou was ])erforming this duty that the following incident occurred: ''One night, while on the first watch, he had seated himself on a hill overhanging the river; his thoughts were possibl}' occupied with far distant scenes, when he was aroused by an indistinct noise behind him, and on looking round, saw that NINE WHITE WOLVES had arranged themselves in the form of a crescent round him, and were advancing apparently with the intention of driving him into the river. He had his gun in his hand, but did not dare fire for fear of alarming any Esquimaux who might be 122 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ill the iiei!L!,liborlio(Hl. Upon his i-isinfi', tlioy lialted, and when lie advanced toward tiiem in a menacing manner, the\^ at once made wa}- for liis passage, (h)wii to the tents," The}', however, fell in witli small parties of Eskimos, with whom friendly relations were maintained. Arriving' at the sea, distant from Fort Enterprise 334 miles, Mr. Wentzel, an agent of the N. W. Fnr Company, who had ac- companied the i)arty from Chipewyan, set out on his return to (h-eat Slave Lake. He took with him dispatches for Eng- land and was accompanied by four Canadians. He was also to see that the Indians deposited a relay of provisions at Fort Enterprise for the party should they return that way. Two conspicuous capes were named hj Franklin in honor of Ilearne and Mackenzie, while a river emptying into the sea farther eastward was called the RICHARDSON RIVER, after his companion. Dr. Richardson. On July 21st the party embarked in two canoes with pro- visions for two weeks, and began their voyage eastward upcm the Arctic Sea. On the 25th they doubled and named Cape I>arrow, so called in compliment to Mr. Barrow of the admiralty, and in whose honor Parry had named the strait lying several hundred miles northwest of that point. Fortun- ately, Franklin's party secured a few deer and one or two bears about this time, and were enabled to continue their voyage till, 'entzel pointing out wliere tliej niiglit be f(»und. Franklin writes: ''It would be impossible to describe our sensations after entering this miserable abode and discovering' how we had been neglected. The whole part}^ SHED TEARS. not so much for our own fate as for that of our friends in the rear, whose lives depended entirelv on our sending immediate relief from tliis }dace." I.ooking about for something to eat, thev found several deer skins that had been thrown away dur- ing their former residence there, and these, with some bones picked from the ash-hea}), and tripe-de-roche, afforded them a most miserable subsistence. "We saw," says Franklin, "a herd of reindeer sporting on t)i<^ river, about a half mile from the house; they remained there a long time, but none of the i)art3^ felt themselves strong enough to go after them, nor was there one of us who could have fired a gun without resting it." Although Franklin, with a few miserable companions, had arrived at the fort, he had been preceded there by the gallant Mr. Back, who, leaving a note for Franklin informing him of his intentions, pushed on toward the first trading estab- lishment, distant about 130 miles, hoping thence to send back succor. It was while talking over the prospects of receiving this assistance that Franklin and those with him heard voices, which, with great Joy, they thought were of Indians coming to their relief. Bitter was their disappointment, however, when, instead, the emaciated frames of Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn presented themselves. Of course they were gladly received, and the single partridge which the self-sacrificing- Hepburn had shot that day and brought to the house was generously shared with Franklin and his three companions. The voices of all were noticed to be very sepulchral in tone, and Di'. Ivichardson requested the men to speak mere cheer- fully, and he tried to comfort them further by the prospect OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 125 of Hepburn's being able to kill a deer on the morrow, as tliey had tired at several near tiie house, and by reading from the I'rajer Book and Testameut }»ortions appropriate to their situation. The next day the Doctor and Hepburn succeeded in firiug at several deer, but were uuable to kill any on account of the unsteadiness with which they held their guns, owing to their great weakness. Poor Mr. Hood, it will be noticed, did not arrive at the fort with Dr. Richardson, with whom, it will be remembered, the Doctor had volunteered to remain on account of his illness, while Franklin pushed on. After Franklin had bidden them farewell, they went to bed and remained under their blankets during a snow storm all the next day. Here they comforted each other reading from a small collection of religious books that had been pre- sented to the party while in London, by a very kind and thoughtful lady. "We read," says the good Doctor, "portions of them to each other as we hiy in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and found that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent (rod that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer destitute; and we conversed not only with calmness but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope on our future prospects." Less than a week afterwards these two men were joined by Michel, the Iroquois guide. This w^as on October 9th. Lie was absent during the lOtli and 11th, not again appearing till late on the 11th. It is now believed that he had previously killed two of the Canadians who had been with him, viz., Belanger and the generous Perrault, who were never after- ward seen alive. Upon overtaking Richardson and Hood on the 11th, he explained that he had brought witli him a portion of a wolf which he had found dead, having been killed by the thrust of a deer's horn. 9 126 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; "We implicith^ believed his story then," says Dr. Kieh- ardsou, "but afterward became aware — from circumstances, the details of which may be spared — that it must have been a portion of the BODY OF BBLANGER or Perrault. A question of moment here presents itself, name- ly, whether he actually murdered these men, or either of them, or whether he found the bodies in the snow. Captain Frank- lin, w^ho is the best able to judge of this matter, from knowi-ng their situation when he parted from them, suggested the for- mer idea, and that both these men had been sacrificed; that Michel, having already destroyed Belanger, completed his crime by Perrault's death, in order to screen himself from detection." Various circumstances pointed irresistibly to this conclu- sion, and after-occurrences would seem to confirm the suspi- cion as being true. Toward Messrs. Richardson, Hood, and Hepburn, Michel behaved in a very surly, overbearing and independent manner, refusing either to cut wood or to hunt. In one of his angry moods he replied to Mr. Hood's request that he hunt, that there were no animals, and that they had better kill and eat him. During these dark hours, the men endeavoring to be as cheerful as possible, and, realizing that as their bodies and minds decayed, incapacitating them to contemplate the hor- rors that surrounded them, they were calm and resigned to their fate. The Doctor continues: "Not a murmur escaped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our addresses to the Supreme Being." At last, on the 20th, while Michel was alone in the tent Avith Mr. Hood, the report of a gun was heard, whereupon the Doctor and Hepburn rushing in found POOR MR. HOOD DEAD, having been shot through the back of the head, the charge coming out through the forehead. Michel persisted that Hood OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 127 had himself committed the terrible deed, but this, both the Doctor and Hepburn knew to be impossible. Moreover, the gun had been applied so close to the back of the head as to scorch the part of his cap over that portion of the wound. Still, neither the Doctor nor Hepburn dared to declare their suspicions, and decided to push forAvard to the fort with all possible haste. To this Michel objected, endeavoring to per- suade them to go southward to the woods, where he said that he would maintain himself during the winter killing deer. The rest of the narrative is best told in the language of Dr. Richardson : "In consequence of this behavior, and the expression of his countenance, I requested him to leave us, and to go to the southward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-nature ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing himself from all restraint on the morrow, and I overheard him muttering threats against Hepburn, whom he openly accused of having told stories against him. He also, for the first time, assumed such a tone of superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he considered us to be completely in his power; and he gave vent to several expressions of hatred toward the white people, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relatives. In short, taking ever^^ circumstance of his conduct into consideration, I came to the conclusion that he would attempt to destro}^ us on the first opportunity that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his ignorance of his way to the fort, but that he would never suffer us to go thither in compam^ with him. Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist even an open attack, nor could we by any device escape from him — our united strength was far inferior to his — and, besides his gun, he was armed with two pistols, an Indian bayonet and a knife. '•In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was some tripe-de-roche, he halted, and said he would gather it white we went on, and that he would soon overtake us. "Hepburn and I were now left together for the first time since Mr. Hood's death, and he acquainted me with several 128 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; matd'ial eirciiinstances which he had observed of Michel's behavior, and which coiilirmed me in the i)i)inion that there was no safety for ns except in his death, and he offered to be the instrument of it. I determined, however, as I was thor- onghlv convinced of the necessity of such a dreadful act, to take the whole responsibility upon myself; and immediately upon Michel's coming up, 1 [)ut an END TO HIS LIFE by shooting him through tlie head with my pistol. Had my own life been threatened I w(uild not have purchased it b}' such a measure, but I considered myself as entrusted also with the protection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane attention and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own. "Michel had gathered no tripe-de-roche, and it was evident to us that he had halted for the puri)()se of putting his gun in order with the intention of attacking us — perhaps while we were in the act of encamping." Continuing wearily onward, Dr. Richardson and Hepburn at last reached Fort Enterprise on the 21)th of October, where, as we have alrea.dy stated, they found Franklin and his skele- ton-like companions. On the 1st of November two of the Canadians, Samandre and Peltier, died of exhaustion. On the 7th supplies of dried meat and fat arrived from old A-kai-tcho's encampment, whence Back had despatched three Indians (m the 5th. These Indians nursed and attended them with the greatest care, col- lected fuel, cleansed the house, and did everything in their power to render them more comfortable. Other supplies arrived, and before Christmas the survivors of the party were once more at Fort Chipewyan, where they remained until June of the following year, 1822. It will be remembered that Mr. Back had preceded Frank- lin to Fort Enterprise, and had gone on thence in search of aid. Of his terrible j(^urney we will give but an incident or two. On the 17th of October, he and one companion, St. rr" ■J' •£&2'.<--* ■- * -f ¥ (1.) Launching Boats Across Reef. Opposite Mt. Conybeare, and Distant View of BntisliCliainof Mountains, July 19, l&2ti— Bacli. (2) Iceberg Adjoining Icy Reef, August 2, 182G— Back. (3.) Northern Termination of Roclcv Mountains, August 5, Ib26-Back. (4.) View From Flaxman's Island, August 7, 182G— Back. (5.) In a Swell Amongst Ice, August, 24, 182rt— Back. (6.) Eskimo Encampment on Richards Island— Kendall. (See Chapter Xi.) !^-«»>^ ' i^^NV^P'^jflwl^ (1.) Eskiiiu) Winter Hut. Atkinson Island— Kendall. (2. t Encampment in Brownell Cuve.July 15, 182iJ— Kendall. (3.) Wiiniot Horton River— Kendall. (4.) Perforated Kooks, near Cape Parry, July 22, ISiti— Kendall. (5.) Boat "Dolphin" Squeezed by Ice— Kendall. (6.) Crotsing Back's Inlet— Kendall. (See Chapter XL) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 129 Germain, seeing some crows perclied liigli upon some pine trees, judged that carrion was in tlie vicinity, and upon search found the heads of several deer, without eyes or tongues, half- buried in the ice and snow. ''Oh, merciful God, we are saved !" exclaimed both men involuntarily, as they shook hands, not knowing what they did or said, for very joy. Another companion, Beauparlant, having lingered behind from extreme weakness, was now thought> of, and Back sent St. Germain to bring him up. The poor fellow was found frozen to death. That night was a sleepless one. Says Back: "From the pains of having eaten, we suffered the most EXCRUCIATING TORMENTS, though I, in particular, did not eat a quarter of what would have satisfied me; it might have been from having eaten a quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs of deer, which neither of us could avoid doing, so great was our hunger." On the next day, Solomon Belanger, who had been sent with a note to Franklin, returned, reporting the dreadful state of affairs at Fort Enterprise, whereupon Back urged both Belanger and St. Germain to advance speedily with him for assistance. They, however, stubbornly persisted in loitering about the remnants of the deer till the 30th, at which time they set out again, and, coming upon the track of Indians on the 3d of November, were soon in the encampment of Adcai- tcho and his followers, whence supplies were sent to Franklin by the three Indian couriers. Thus was brought to a close the great sufferings of Frank- lin and his courageous companions. After an absence of three years, during which time they had accomplished a journey of 5,550 miles, they arrived, in July, 1822, once more at York Factory. Nor was tliis great and important undertaking accomplished without a firm reliance upon the guiding hand of a Divine Providence. 130 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER VII. RUSSIAN EXPEDITIONS.— WRANGELL'S GREAT JOUR- NEYS IN SIBERIA. Following the efforts of the Laptjeff cousins in delineating a large part of the Arctic Coast according to Bering's plans, SCHALAROFF, a merchant of Ya-kntsk, in 1758, sailed from the Yana river in a ship built at his own expense, and succeeded in advancing farther eastward than had Dmitri Laptjeff, viz., beyond the Baranoff Rocks, but short of Cape Chelagskoi. Making a sec- ond attempt, again he failed. In his third effort, in 1700, the crew refused to support him. Three years later, SERGEANT AN-DRE-JEPF, a Cossack, who had been on the Indigirka, and had driven over the ice to and from the Bear Islands, reported that he had discovered in the estuar}- of the Kolyma, a group of inhab- ite(J islands, with the remains of a fort, and traces of a former large population. The next year, SCHALAROPP for the fourth time endeavored in vain to double Cape Chel- agskoi. On this journey he lost his life. Of him, saj's Wran- gell, whose work in the same region we are about to consider, "His unfortunate deatli (from starvation, it is said) is the more to be lamented as he sacrificed his property and life to a dis- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 131 interested aim, and united intelligence and energy in a remark- able degree." In this same year ADMIRAL CHIT-CHA-GOFP made a fruitless attempt to sail round the Spitzbergen group. In 1767, Leontjeff, Lyssoff, and Pushkaroff surveyed the coast near the Kolyma. Meanwhile, between the years 1745 and 1768, the fur trad- ers, in their commerce with China and Japan, had discovered the islands of the North Pacific. In April, 1770, LIAKHOV, OR LACHOW, a merchant, while gathering a cargo of fossil ivory in the vicinity of Sviatoi Nos, or Holy Cape, observed a large herd of reindeer advancing over the sea-ice from the north, and there- fore concluded that they must come from land. Guided by the tracks of the migrating animals Liakhov journeyed by dog- sled northward till at distances of forty and fifty-two miles from the Cape he discovered the two southernmost of the NEW SIBteRIAN ISLANDS, and found them both wonderfully rich in the ivorj^ of the mam- moth. Having been rewarded for his discovery by Czarina Catherine II. with the exclusive right to collect ivory from them, in 1773 he discovered the largest of the three, which still bear his name. In 1787, JOSEPH BILLINGS, who had accompanied Captain Cook in his last voyage, sailed down the Kolyma river with two vessels, and from its mouth eastward a short distance beyond Baranoff Kocks. Owing to the impassable condition of the ice he returned to the mouth of the Kolyma, whence, leaving the vessels aground, he pro- ceeded to Ya-kutsk. In this, as well as in subsequent opera- tions, he acted in the service of the Russian navy. In June, 1790, in command of a second expedition he visited the Aleu- tian Islands, where, observing the oppression of the natives by the Russian and Cossack traders, he strove to ameliorate 132 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the sad condition of the defenseless tribes by governmental interposition. In Angnst, he endeavored to survey the Chook- chee peninsula, but, owing to the hostility of the natives, engendered, doubtless, by long years of oppression by the Cos- sack and Russian adventurers, the effort was abortive. Says Sauer, the historian of the voyage: "We passed three villages, and halted at a fourth for the night. The huts were dug under ground, covered with earth, of a square form, with a fireplace in the middle, and four large stones made the hearth. We were obliged to treat with them for water, and for fuel to boil our food, and to pay for it immediately. Observing our good nature and want of power, tliey TOOK A Ln<:iNG TO THE BUTTONS on our coats and cut them off without ceremony. The men were tall and stout, and tlie warrior had his legs and arms punctured. The women were well-made, and above the middle size; health}' in appearance, and by no means disagreeable in their persons; their dress was a doe's skin with the hair on, and one garment covered their limbs and the whole body. They wore their hair ])arted, and in two plaits, and hanging over each shoulder, their arms and face being neatly punc- tured." THE ARCHIPELAGO OF NEW SIBERIA, discovered in 180G by Sir-a-wat-sky, and explored by Heden- stroni three years later, lies almost due north from the mouth of the Yana, a short distance east of the Lena delta, between latitude 73° and 70° north, and longitude 135° and 150° east. According to San-ni-koff, who explored the group in 1811, "the whole soil of the first of the Liakhov Islands appears to con- sist of bones and tusks of mammals." On the hills of Kotelnoi, one of tlie group, he found the skulls and other bones of horses, buffaloes, oxen, and sheep; and although covered with snow and ice and not producing even a living shrub, fossilized trees were found in numerous localities, ronceruing the cele- brated "Wood Iliils" of those islands, ITedenstrom, who visited them in 1811, says: "They are thirty fathoms high (180 feet), OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 133 and consist of horizontal strata of sandstone, alternating witli strata of bituminous beams or trunlvs of trees. On ascending these hillSj fossilized charcoal is everywhere met with, covered apparently with ashes, but on closer examination this ash is also found to be a petrification, and so hard that it can scarcel}^ be scraped oft" with a knife. On the summit another curiosity is found, namely, a long row of beams resembling the former, but fixed perpendicularly in the sandstone. The ends, which project from seven to ten inches, are for the most part broken. The vrhole has the appearance of a ruinous dike." According to this same explorer the tusks of the mam- moth are smaller and lighter but more numerous as one jour- neys towards the north on the islands, often weighing only from 108 to 144 pounds avoirdupois. On the mainland of Siberia they weighed from three to four times as much. To these larger animals must have belonged THE FROZEN MAMMOTH discovered in 1799 by Schumachoff, a Tungusian ivor^^ hunter. This occurred near Lake x4.ncoul. Four years later, the ice which enveloped it having melted away, the carcass fell upon the sand, where its well-preserved flesh afforded to the dogs and wild beasts food for at least three seasons. In 1804 Schu- machoff carried away and sold the tnsks for forty dollars. Two years later Mr. Adams found it in a mutilated condition, but with some of the flesh still adhering to the bones. The skele- ton, excepting one fore-leg and some of the tail-bones, Avas complete. Three-fourths of the skin remained, and required the united efforts of ten men to remove it 150 feet to the shore. It was of a dark gray color, covered with short, curly, reddish wool, besides some black hairs or bristles from one to eighteen inches in length. It also possessed a long mane. While sam- ples of its wool were distributed among the principal museums throughout Europe, the entire body remaining was taken to St. Petersburg and placed in the imperial museum. Its tusks were repurcliased by the government and replaced in their original sockets. In sex, it was a male. Its chief measure- 134 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; luents were: from forehead to end of mutilated tail, sixteen feet four inches; height to top of dorsal spine, nine feet four inches; length of tusks along curvature, nine feet six inches. Although the New Siberian Islands are now uninhabited, there were found upon them traces of former population. These were possibl}^ of the traditional 0-mo-ki now long ago vanished from even the mainland, and of whom legend has it that '^there were once more hearths of the 0-mo-ki on the shore of the Kolyma than there are stars in the clear sky." Following the birth of the New Siberian Islands into the scientific and commercial worlds, the RUSSIAN ARCTIC VOYAGE OF EXPLORATION under Lieutenant Otto Von Kot-ze-bue,son of the great German dramatist, was undertaken in 1815. This was owing to the public spirit and scientific zeal of Count Nicholas Ko-man-zoff, who had been made the Russian Secretary of State in 1807. The talented Count selected as his companion the poet and naturalist, Chamisso, and the physician and naturalist, Esch- holtz. In a vessel of only 180 tons burden and a crew of twenty- two men, the expedition sailed from Plymouth, England, in October, 1815, and, after rounding Cape Horn, arrived in the Ba}^ of Avacha, Kam-chat-ka, on the 17th of June, 1816. Ten days later they landed on St. Lawrence Island. Here the in- habitants, who had never before had intercourse with Euro- peans, received them with amusing yet- seriously^ meant hos- pitality. Says Kotzebue: ''So long as the naturalists wan- dered about the hills I staid with my acquaintances, who, when the}^ found that I was the commander, invited me into their tents. Here a dirtj^ skin was spread on the floor, on which I had to sit, and then they came in, one after the other, embraced me, rubbed their noses hard against mine, and fin- ished their caresses by spitting on their hands and then strik- ing me several times over the face. Although these proofs of friendship gave me very little pleasure, I bore all patiently; the only thing I did to lighten their caresses somewhat, was OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 135 to distribute tobacco leaves. These the natives received with great pleasure, but they wished immediately to renew their proofs of friendship. Now I betook myself with speed to knives, scissors, and beads, and by distributing some, succeeded in averting a new attack. "But a still greater calamity awaited, when, in order to refresh me bodily, they brought forward a wooden tray with whale blubber. Nauseous as this food is to a European stom- ach, I boldly attacked the dish. This, along with new presents which I distributed, impressed the seal on the friendly rela- tions between us. After the meal our hosts made arrange- ments for dancing and singing, which was accompanied on a little tambourine." The Europeans took their departure two days later, whereupon the natives killed a dog in plain view of them, perhaps as a parting sacrifice. Having passed through Bering Strait, the expedition ar- rived, on August 1st, within a broad bay, beginning in lati- tude 66° 42', longitude 164° 14' 50". It received the name of Kotzebue Sound, and two weeks were spent in surveying it. To an island and a bay that were also discovered at this time were applied the names of the naturalists, Chamisso and Eschholtz, respectively. The scientists also examined A REMARKABLY UNIQUE ISLAND, of about 100 feet in elevation and having the appearance of a chalk cliff. Upon close observation, however, it was found to be a mass of ice covered with a layer of blue chij and turf- earth only six inches thick, but covered with luxuriant vege- tation. Speaking of this. Professor Nordenskipld says: "The ice must have been several hundred thousand years old; for on its being melted a large number of bones and tusks of the mammoth appeared, from which we may draw the conclusion that the ice stratum was formed during the period in which the mammoth lived in. these regions." Its latitude was 66° 15' 36". Leaving Kotzebue Sound on August 15th, the expedition sailed westward and beheld the Arctic Ocean, quite free from 136 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ice as far as the eye could reach, and might have attained what is now known as Wrangell's Land had they but pushed that way. Instead, they directed their course southward and homeward, arriving in Europe in 1818. Prompted by the results of the explorations of Andrejeff in 1767, and of Pscheuizyn and Hedenstrom in the exploration of the Bear and the New Siberian Islands from 1809 to 1811, the Eussian Naval Department resolved, in 1820, to send out an expedition under LIEUT. FERDINAND VON WRANGBLL. It was made to consist of two divisions: the first, under Wrangell, with seven companions, was directed to survey the coast eastward from the Ko-ly-ma as far as Cape Schelagskoi, and thence to proceed northward to ascertain if an inhabited country existed there, as had been asserted by the Chook- chees and others; the second, under Lieutenant Anjou, with two companions, was to proceed northward for the same purpose. This division succeeded in surveying the New Siber- ian Islands, but failed to find au}'^ '"^inhabited country." No reports of this division were published, owing to the accidental burning of the ofdcial papers. Of the celebrated "Wood Ilill'' of New Siberia, Lieutenant Anjou says: "They form a steep declivity twenty fathoms high, extending about five versts (three miles) along the coast. In this bank, which is exposed to the sea, beams or trunks of trees are found, generally in an horizontal position, but with great irregularity, fifty or more of them together, the largest being about ten inches in diameter. The wood is not very hard, is friable, has a black color, and a slight gloss. When laid on the fire it does not burn with a flame, but glimmers, and emits a resinous odor." The expedition left St. Petersburg April 4, 1820, and trav- eled thence via Moscow, Irkutsk and Yakutsk, to its base of operations on the lower Kolyma, in latitude 68° 32', longitude 100° 35' east, a distance of 6,300 miles. The Journey was MADE ON HORSEBACK in 221 days, thirty-six of which were spent at Irkutsk and OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. '' 137 forty-nine at Yakutsk, Wrangell and two companions headed tlie cavalcade of ten pack-horses, of which only the first and last carried drivers. Between Irkutsk — situate only a short distance from Lake Baikal — and Yakutsk, on the Upper Lena, the travelers met some Yakuts and Tunguses, of Tartar origin. On the 15th of October, having crossed the Upper Yana, they met Dr. To-mas-chew-ski, on his return to civilization after a three years' sojourn at Nish-ni Ko-lymsk. On the 22d the party crossed the Indigirka at Sa-chi-versk, and for two days enjoyed the hospitality of the VENERABLE MISSIONARY, Father Michel, eighty-seven years of age, and who had in his long missionary career of forty years baptized and instructed in the doctrines of Christianity 15,000 Yakuts, Tunguses, and Ya-ka-gires. Continuing thence eastward, Wrangell crossed the Alasei Mountains, which separate the Indigirka from the Koljana, and arrived at Sredne Kolymsk on or about the 6th of Novem- ber, This place was the official headquarters of the region, and is situated on the Kolyma, quite on the Arctic Circle, Here heavy fur clothing was purchased, and then the inarch toward the Om-a-lon, a branch of the Kolyma, began. Arriv- ing upon its banks on the 31st, a two days' sledge journey with dogs brought the explorers to Nishni Kolymsk, where the en- suing winter was spent, in latitude 68° 32', longitude 160° 35'. The town was founded in 1644. Its inhabitants were of me- dium height, and strong and vigorous. Here the river remains frozen over from the middle of September till the following June, there being only three months of summer, during which time the sun remains constantly above the horizon for fifty- two days, but at so low an elevation as to give but compara- tively little heat to the earth. Then it may be gazed upon with the naked eye without serious inconvenience. With the inhabitants, spring begins when the returning sun is first seen at midday just above the southern horizon. 138 ,' THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; although at that time the thermometer is at — 35° Fahrenheit at night. Autumn begins with the first freezing of the river. In June the thermometer sometimes registers 72°, but before the close of July it sinks to about 40°. January gives a tem- perature of 65° below zero, thus showing a range of 137° in five months. The winters are foggy, catarrh and ophthalmia resulting. Scurvy and other dangerous diseases are rare; upon the whole, the climate is not unhealthful. • On March 3, 1821, Wraugell set out for Cape Schelagskoi, the party traversing the intervening uninhabited coast with nine dog sledges and drivers. Occasional!}^ the Russian hunt- ers descend upon it to the Barauoff Kocks, and the Chook- chees, from the other side, to the Barauoff Eiver. The inter- vening moss-covered plains were inhabited hj the unsubdued Chook-chees with their vast herds of reindeer. The equipment of Wraugell's party consisted of the follow- ing principal articles: Reindeer-skin tent, with frame of ten poles and cooking utensils; a bear-skin apiece to lie on; double coverlet of reindeer skin for each pair; fur shirts; fur coats of double thickness; fur-lined boots; fur caps and gloves; some changes of linen; fire-arms; two chronometers; a seco-nds' watch; sextant and artificial horizon; spirit thermometer; three azimuth compasses, one having a prism; two telescopes and a measuring line. On the 5th of March Su-char-noi Island was reached at the mouth of the east branch of the Kolyma, in latitude 69° 31', longitude 161° 44'. On the next morning the start was made for Barauoff Rocks, twenty-four miles distant. On the way, the wooden tower, erected by Captain Billings in 1739, at the mouth of the Kol^-ma, was passed. Arriving at the hut erected by the same officer, it was found in a good state of preserva- tion, but filled with snow and ice. The roof was accordingly removed and the hut cleared in half an hour. It was found to be large enough for but four men, and the other seven slejjt without, .in the tent. On the 7th, having traveled about twenty-five miles, the Greater Barauoff Rock was reached. The temperature at noon was — 20°F, These rocks had the ap- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 139 pearance of colossal figures of men, beasts, and the ruins of vast buildings. On the next day, twenty miles farther on, a depot of provisions for the return trip was erected on the banks of a stream. On the 9th, twenty miles more were cov- ered in a severe snow-storm. On the next day the sea-ice was struck, and over it, at a short distance from the shore, the travelers passed with greater ease. In the afternoon of the 13th they came upon several Chook-chee huts of larch drift- wood in the strait separating the Sabadei Island of Schalaroff from the mainland. This was in latitude 69° 49', longitude 168° 43'. At noon of the next day Wrangell saw a stretch of open water, extending east and west as far as the eye could reach, and north of it a great accumulation of ice-hummocks, which at first he supposed to be land. Within two miles he recog- nized Laptjeff's Sand Cape, longitude 168°. At the end of twenty miles made on the 4th, the last depot was formed, in latitude 69° 58', longitude 168° 41'. From this point, too, the sixth and last of the provision sledges was sent back, Wrangell, Mate Kosmin and three drivers proceeding on alone. On the 17th, the northwest point of Cape Schelagskoi was reached. Ice-hummocks and icebergs were everywhere visible. Five miles beyond they found a quantity of driftwood, of which they built a rousing fire and refreshed themselves. Just west of them was the bold Schelagskoi, towering to a height of 3,000 feet. From this point Wrangell and Kosmin, leaving one sledge behind to await their return, proceeded eastward in order to test the theor^^ of the English Admiral, Burney, who had conjectured that a strait existed between the mainland of Siberia and some undiscovered land extending from Cape Schelagskoi to Bering's Strait. Ten miles from their camp the latitude was found to be 70° 3', and seven miles farther on the coast was seen for twenty-four miles trending in a south- easterly direction, therefore conflicting with Burney's views. The farthest point seen was named Cape Kosmin, after Wrang- ell's companion. The limit reached was marked by a cairn erected on a hill in latitude 70° 1', longitude 171° 47'. They had traveled at an average rate of twentv miles a day — in all 140 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 241 miles — since leaving Sucharnoi Island. The clay's journey was generally made in eight hours. The gliding of the sledges was greatly facilitated by invert- ing the sledges at night and ponring water upon the runners so as to form an ice-coating upon them. This custom doubt- less prevails among all polar tribes. In North Greenland the process is known as ki-o-thock-toh-ing, and is performed by rubbing upon the ivory-sliod sledge runners quantities of semi- melted snow, thawed by being held in the mouth. The writer has observed the natives to use also the warm blood of re- cently-killed seals, walruses, or reindeer. Having erected a memorial cross at CapeKosmin, Wrangell set out upon the return on tlie 19tli, and encamped at noon in latitude 69° 44', longitude 170° 47', giving to the name of a cape seen three miles in a southw^esterly direction the name of the midshipman, Ma-tinch-kin, wiio had been sent on a mission of peace among the Chook-cliees. Crossing Chaun B-dj to Sab-a-dei Island on the next day, the party reached their fourth depot of provisions, and for- tunately, too, for they had consumed all that they had taken with them. Upon these alone the return trip was made to the Lower Kolymsk, after an absence of twenty-two days. The interven- ing d(*pots had been destroyed by wolverines and foxes, and no provisions had been left at Ru-char-noi Island, as Wrangell had ordered. The round trip of 047 miles was made at an aver- age rate of thirty-one miles a day for twenty-one days actually consumed in traveling. On March 31st Wrangell was rejoined by Ma-tinch-kin, who had learned from the Chook-chees, Avhom he had visited, that the}' had never seen or heard of land farther north. Thus again did Rurney's theory fail of support. The rhook-chees had also promised to aid and receive in a friendly manner the expedi- tion vrhenever it might see fit to visit them. On his journey Ma-tinch-kin left Nishni Kolymsk on the 16th of March, and four days later arrived at Fort Os-troff-noi, latitude 6S°, longitude 166° 10'. He was accompanied by Cap- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 141 tain John Diindas Cochrane (the "Pedestrian Traveler" — then on his famous trip round the world), by a Cossack servant and a Ya-kut interpreter. On the day following Ma-tinch-kin's arrival at the fort, a caravan of Russian merchants, with 125 pack-horses loaded with commodities for the annual fair, arrived there. These goods consisted of tobacco, beads, hardware, and smuggled liquors, to be exchanged with the natives for the furs of animals killed not only in those regions but also on the opposite shores of North America, the Alaskans receiving in return for their articles the tobacco and trinkets obtained from the Russians. During fair time, the fort was visited not only by the Chook-chees, but also bj' the Yu-ka-gires, Tun-gu-ses, Choo- van-chees, Ko-riaks, and a few scattered Russians, coming from a radius of 600 miles. The value of goods exchanged annually was estimated at |150,000, the Russians making about sixty per cent on the cost of their wares ; the natives, 300 per cent. But, while the Russians were absent from home only a few weeks, the various tribes were often several months on the road. During the three days of the fair, the Russians were very noisy in their manner of dealing, while the "barbarians," on the contrary, maintained great composure. At this time Ma-tinch-kin introduced the object of his mis- sion to the chiefs of the various tribes, explaining that the mighty Czar of all the Russians was desirous of sending ships, if possible, by the northern seas, to bring to them wares in greater abundance and at less cost than they then paid, and also that he wished to ascertain whether or not the servants of the Czar could rely upon a friendly reception by their various peoples. Each proposition was heartily assented to by the tribal heads. Chief Leuth, from the Bay of St. Lawrence, on the Pacific coast, received Matinchkin into his tent, when the six nearly naked female inmates decorated themselves with colored beads in his honor, while Mak-o-mol invited him to witness a sledge race, in which the sledges were drawn by reindeer. The fleet- 10 142 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ness of these animals and the dexterity of the drivers elicited the applause of the multitude. The prizes awarded were a beaver skin, a blue fox skin, and a pair of walrus tusks. A foot-race followed, during which, over a course of nearly nine miles, the contestants wore their usual suits of heavy fur. The populace, however, evinced greater liking for the reindeer races. At the close of the contests, the performers and spec- tators were banqueted upon boiled reindeer cut into pieces and served in large wood bowls, distributed around over the snow. Quietness and good order prevailed. On the following day Ma-tinch-kin's visit was formally re- paid by the Chook-chees, to the ladies of whom he presented red, white, and blue beads, with cand}^ and tea for refresh- ments. The ladies, however, disliking the tea, partook only of the candy. A dance followed, in which feet and bodies were rigidly moved back and forth, the hands meanwhile beat- ing the air. At last, three competent persons performed the national dance of the Chook-chees. In this, grimaces, contortions, and jumpings formed the principal attraction, till the artists were completely exhausted. This over, etiquette compelled Ma- tinch-kin to present to each of the three performers a cup of brandy and some tobacco. The guests then took their depart- ure, charging the Russian to return their call in their own country. The chief also made him a formal visit of friendship to give renewed assurance of their desire to forward the proposed exploration of the northern sea. Ma-tinch-kin thereupon re- turned to Nislmi Kolymsk, as has been stated. Here Dr. Kyber, the remaining offlcer of the expedition, had also arrived from Irkutsk. lie, however, w^as ill and un- able to take part, not only in this first expedition, but also in the one following, which we now turn to consider as WRANGELL'S SECOND SLEDGE JOURNEY, undertaken less than two weeks after the return from the first trip. The start was made on the 7th of April, and, as OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 143 before, from KSiicharnoi IsiancL The train consisted of twenty- two sledges drawn by tw^o hundred forty dogs. Of these, fourteen were provision sledges, each carrying 1,100 pounds; and two, the sledges of Be-resh-noi, a merchant who had been granted permission to accompany the expedition. Besides Ma-tinch-kin, Wrangell's immediate companions were Ne-cho-roch-koff, the sailor who had accompanied him from St. Petersburg, and Re-chet-ni-koff, a retired sergeant who had joined him at Yakutsk, and who had accompanied Hedenstrom on his exploring expedition to the New Siberian Islands ten years before. This time, a dipping needle, a sounding-line, some whale- bone shoeing for the sledge runners, a crow-bar for breaking through the ice, and a portable boat of skins for crossing open lanes in the ice, were taken along. On the second day out, when on sea-ice, an enormous bear was killed, mainly through the courage of one of the Cossack drivers. On the 10th, on what was judged to be the easternmost of the Bear Islands, Wrangell determined the latitude to be 71° 37', longitude 162° 25', and named it the FOUR-PILLAR ISLAND, from its remarkable granitic porphyry formation in the shape of pillars, the tallest of which was forty-eight feet high and ninety-one in circumference, and fashioned somewhat like a gigantic human body Vv^ith tnrbaned head, but without limbs. Here the party collected a supply of driftwood for fuel, and pushed on, the temperature keeping from seven to four- teen degrees above zero. On the 12th the sledges dragged heavily on the salt-cover- ing to the ice now encountered, and thick fog rendered the men's clothing wet. These circumstances indicated open water in that vicinity. Here a gale sprang up and forced them to take refuge upon an ice-hummock thirty feet high. From freshly-fallen snow on the summit was melted drinking and cooking water. By morning the storm ceased and the ther- 144 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; mometer rose to 23° Fahrenheit. Whalebone shoes were then fastened upon the runners and the sledges ran more easily. On the 14th, three seals were seen, but ecaped through holes in the ice. Several of the provision sledges had been sent back already, and now three more were despatched in the same direction. On the next day the explorers began to travel by night, and left camp after sunset. They soon found themselves, however, in a deep salt moor on ice only five inches in thickness and so rotten as to be easil}^ cut through with a common knife. Two miles to the southeast the ice became smooth and sound, and fourteen inches thick, and the sea twelve fathoms deep. Upon again encamping, the night w^as spent in great alarm; the high wind so agitated the open water somewhere to the north as to cause the ice to vibrate beneath their feet. This was in longitude 163° 29'. Four miles northward, latitude 71° 43', the ice was found to be so greatly fissured and so unstable that Wrangell decided to go no farther. He w^as 124 miles in a straight line from the Lesser Baranoff Rock. Proceeding now in a southeasterly direction, the travelers reached, by noon of the 17th, a large ice-hill in the vicinity of latitude 71° 30', longitude 163° 39'. Here were deposited sur- plus provisions, and eight of the sledges, with drivers, sent on to Mshni Kolymsk in charge of Sergeant Re-chet-ni-koff. There now remained, including Be-resh-noi, ten persons, with sledges and provisions for men and dogs for fourteen days. Still advancing over the now greatly fissured ice, they rested and religiously observed the 22d, which was EASTER SUNDAY, in latitude 70° 46', longitude 165° 6', in sight of the Greater Baranoff Rock, sixty miles distant. Before an ice-block altar was burnt the only wax taper which thej^ possessed. Be-resh- noi read the prescribed service, while the Cossacks and drivers sang the customary hymns. The next day was also spent in the same place owing to the temporary illness of one of the drivers. The time was employed in repairing the sledges, the The "Fury," Aug. 25, 1825. — Hoppner. Eskimo Weapons, Implements, etc. (See Cliapter X.) One of Dr. ChamberJin's Pets. (See pages 458-9.) tn m OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 145 death-like stillness of the day being relieved by the thunder- peals of crashing ice. On the 26th they reached the depot left on the ice-hill. Numerous tracks of bears and other animals were seen all round it, but nothing had been disturbed. On the next day they again rested and found the latitude to be 71° 28'. As the party slept they were awakened by the barking of the dogs. Two bears were in the camp and these all the men save Wran- gell followed till morning, but without capturing them. Mean- while, a third bear appeared before the surprised and per- plexed leader of the expedition, but, after eyeing him for a mo- ment, scampered off and fell in with two of the returning hunt- ers, who wounded but did not capture it. On the 29th they again reached the scene of Hedenstrom's labors in 1810, in latitude 71° 26', longitude 162° 27', in the vicinity of the Bear Islands. Traveling in storm and darkness, guided by compass and with the teams tied in succession to the sledges preceding them, the party reached, on the 1st of May, the north side of Four-Pillar Island. Two fires of driftwood set blazing soon revived their spirits, and on the morning of the 2d, the NOTES OP SOME LINNETS regaled them as they approached the second island of the group. On the 5th they examined the most western of these and also found that they were six in number, including the Four-Pillar Island. Provisions running low and the season being far advanced, Wrangell now proceeded direct to Nishni Kohmisk, arriving there on the 10th of May, having been absent thirty-four days. He had journeyed 700 miles without serious injury' to man, dog or provisions. Owing to the scarcity of provisions at Nishni Kolymsk, Wrangell made special efforts to secure supplies for his men and dogs during the season. Fishing and hunting parties were sent out; Ma4inch-kin and Dr. Ky-ber explored the AniuJ; Kosmin traversed on horseback the desert region be- tween the Chu-kot-chie and the In-di-gir-ka rivers; Re-chet-ni- 146 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; koff erected a small dwelling and a depot of provisions at the moiitli of the Greater Bar-a-ni-cha River; Ne-cho-rosh-koft" jj;ave special attention to the securing of fish, while Wrangell occupied a portion of his time determining some positions on the river, it being still blocked by ice. While in the middle of the stream on the 27th of July, his tent took fire and was destroyed before he could reach it, but fortunatel}^ the papers and instruments were not burned. A little later, Wrangell, through the advice of Dr. Kyber, sj^ent nearly seven weeks among the Ya-kuts living farther south along the Upper Kolyma. Here the repose as well as the kind ti'eatment of the natives greatly invigorated him and he was relieved of his rheumatism. About the middle of October the entire party were again gathered at Nishni Kolymsk, where they spent the winter of 1821-2. Four-fifths of the dogs used by the expedition having per- ished of an epidemic during the winter, the preparations for V/RANGELL'S THIRD SLEDGE JOURNEY were begun under very discouraging circumstances. Only forty-five of these indispensable animals of the ninety-six con- teinplated could be secured. The faithful Cossacks, hoAvever, owning the majority of the surviving dogs, came to the aid of the Russians, and, together with other inhabitants, fitted out twenty sledges, each with twelve dogs. At length, on the 26th of March, with twenty-four sledges, nineteen of which were burdened with provisions, and with nearly three hundred dogs, the start was made once more from Sucharnoi Island. WrangelFs trusty companions were as before — Ma-tinch-kin, Kosmin and ]S^e-cho-roff-sky. Dr. Kyber again very reluctantly remained behind owing to ill health. Eleven days later, on April Gth, the expedition arrived at a point about ninety miles north, near latitude 71° 30', and eighteen miles east of Cape Schelagskoi. From this point, de- pots having been established, the last of the provision sledges were sent back. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 147 After test journeys of three or four miles toward the north and northeast, in which no new land was discovered, the ex- pedition again started north on the 12th. Two days later EASTER SUNDAY was observed as a day of rest, the bright, mild weather adding to the enjoyment of the occasion. A few days later three men, one of them a sick driver, with one sledge and two dog teams, were sent back. The extra sledge thus released was used in repairing the others. Wrangell also' gave to the three men returning the largest tent. Pushing on, the remaining five men, with three sledges, reached, on April 21st, latitude 71° 52'— 3° 23' east of the Greater Baranoff Kocks, and near the limit of the shore-ice of Siberia. Ma-tinch-kin, however, with a lightly equipped sledge advanced six miles farther north till he "beheld the ic,y sea breaking its fetters; enormous fields of ice, raised by the waves into an almost vertical position, driven against each other with a tremendous crash, pressed downward by the force of the foaming billows, and reappearing on the surface, cov- ered with the torn-up green mud which everywhere here forms the bottom, and which we had so often seen on the highest hummocks. On his return, Mr. Ma-tinch-kin found a great part of the track he had passed over gone, and large spaces which he had just traversed now covered with water." He was absent but six hours. Now directing their course to the west-northwest, on the 24th they reached latitude 72° 2' — 2° 50' east of the longitude of the Greater Baranoff Rocks. This was the nearest land, from which they were distant 151 miles in a straight line. Here they were again stopped by breaking ice and open water. The 4th of May found the party forty-six miles from Cape Schelagskoi. To the north and east for a distance of twenty- nine miles the sky appeared clear and the horizon open, with no land in sight. Wrangell therefore concluded that "THE INHABITED NORTH COUNTRY" was not to be found in the region of either the Cape or Baranoff 148 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Kock. Setting out, therefore, on the return, Po-chotsk was reached on the 16th. Here were met Lieutenant Anjou and party on their return to the Yana Kiver, from the New Siberian Islands. On the next day Wrangell's party reached Nishni Kolymsk after an absence of fifty-three days and a journey of 782 miles. The ensuing summer months were spent in EXPLORING THE TUNDRAS of the region, Wrangell making a trip through the Hill Tundra and Matinchkin across the Eastern Tundra. By the term Tundras is meant those vast mossy flats which border the Arctic Ocean not only along the Siberian but also the Euroiiean shores. Consisting of great swampy tracts cov- ered in part with a thick layer of bog moss and in part with a layer of dry SNOW-WHITE REINDEER MOSS, lichens and similar Arctic vegetation, they are inhabited by hordes of aboriginal nomads with their packs of wolfish dogs and immense herds of reindeer. Owing to the soft nature of these plains great portions can be traversed only in winter, when the surface is frozen. Their northern sections, however, contain a covering of snow throughout the year. "*" In the plains of the LoAver Kolyma the mosquitoes are so numerous that the reindeer are driven from the forests and made to fall victims to the hunters, who drive them into the river with dogs and then spear them. The horses of the natives are protected from the attacks of the mosquitoes by means of dy-mo-ku-ries, or slnokeWeaps. On the right bank of the river, near the sea, grass, wild- thyme, wormwood, the w^ild rose, and even the forgetmenot abound. Of fruits, the currant, black and white whortleberry, cloud-berry and the aromatic dwarf crimson bramble grow. These, together with roots, are gathered by the women and children. Besides the reindeer, there are also found in the upland forests, the elk, black bear, fox, sable, gray squirrel, and, in the lowlands, the stone fox and the wolf. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 149 The feathered tribe is represented by great flocks of swans, geese and ducks, which moult and nest in the moss deserts; by eagles, owls and gulls along the sea coast; by troops of ptarmi- gans in the bushes; by snipes along the brooks and in the morasses; by crows, living about the huts of the inhabitants; by the tinch, the early visitor of the spring, and by the thrush, a late arrival in the autumn. Great numbers of swans, ducks and geese are caught duriujj,- the moulting-season by means of trained dogs, guns, horse- hair nooses, arrows and sticks. Some of these wild fowl are either smoked or frozen for food in the winter. In the spring or summer the streams overflow, and then are caught quantities of salmon, trout, sturgeon and other va- rieties of fish. In September the herrings are very numerous, as many as 3,000 being taken at a single draught, and in three or four days 40,000 by a single good net. The reindeer and herring seasons are times of great rejoicing among the in- habitants. In the winter some varieties of fish are caught by means of horse-hair nets, while foxes, wolves and other wild animals are captured in traps. The native dog is about two feet seven and a half inches high, and three feet three-fourths of an inch long. Its coat is either smooth or curly and of a black, brown, reddish-brown, or white color, and is frequently spotted. Its bark is much like that of the wolf. Although trained w^hen nine months of age, it is not used on long journeys till the third year. It is made to tow the boat in the river and from bank to bank at the master's call. The diet of the natives is principally fish and reindeer meat served in train-oil. As delicacies, cakes of fish-roe and dried and finely-ground muksuns are eaten. The family guest is accorded smoked deer's tongue, melted deer's fat and frozen butter served on a table covered with several folds of an old fishing net. His napkin is simply a thin, rolled-up shaving of wood. 150 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; The holidays are observed with games and religious services. On the 1st of September, when on the return to Nishni Kolymsk from the Eastern Tundra, Ma-tinch-kin, with Be-resh- noi, who had accompanied him, struck the trail of the Chook- chees, who were en route to the annual fair at Os-troff-noi. On the 3d the party were without food except a single duck which had been killed unknown to the rest of the party, by one of the Yakuts. This the generous fellow secretly offered to Matinchkin, saying: "There, take and eat it alone; it is too little to do good to all of us, and you are very tired." Ma-tinch-kin, however, declined the offer and the duck was made into broth and served as a light repast for all. Trudging on over snow-covered hills and through deeply- filled ravines for three days, they at length, on the 5th, placed a net in a stream. Great hunger drove Ma-tinch-kin to pro- pose the killing of one of the horses for food; but the sugges- tion met with opposition by the Yakuts, who declared that in the heated state of the animal's blood injury would result to those who should eat of it. With fear, yet with hope, the net was drawn on the next morning, and to their great joy three large and several small fishes came with it. On the same clay the Aniuj w^as reached, and here were obtained more fish than could be consumed. A surplus of 5,000 was deposited for the use of future travelers. Some months later they learned with delight that these same fish were found by a party of dis- tressed wanderers, who were thus supplied with food for a month. The bread which Ma-tinch-kin's party had thus cast upon the water returned to them ere many days; they them- selves found a similar deposit of clothing, which was much needed in the daily increasing cold. Devoting the remainder of the season to surveying the country from the Aniuj to Nishni Kolymsk, a distance of 300 miles, Ma-tinch-kin finally returned to Nishni Kolj'msk for the winter, on the 6th of October. He had been absent eighty-six days. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 151 It was on the 10th of March, 1823, that the start was made on WRANGELL'S FOURTH AND LAST SLEDGE JOURNEY. Having secured the cooperation of the inhabitants of the Yana, Chroma and Indigirl^a rivers, Wrangell was able to pro- ceed witli nineteen well-provisioned sledges to the buildings which had been previoush^ erected on the Greater Bar-a-ni-cha. From this point he, on the 17th, made the final start on the Journey over the ice of the Polar Sea, and in three days ar- rived at Cape Schelagskoi. Here was met a kai-ma-kai, or chief of a tribe of Chook-chees. Once satisfied of the friendly intentions of the Europeans, this nomad ruler likewise evinced a spirit of amicability, and informed the explorers that the region of the cape was only temporarily occupied by his people while hunting the bear; that previously here dwelt the Che-la-gi and Che-wa-ni tribes, the names of which endure in Cape Chelagskoi and Chaun Ba^^, but who long ago migrated farther w^est. Concerning the reputed "inhabited country to the north," he said : "There is a part of the coast between the capes, where from some cliffs near the mouth of a river one might, on a clear summer day, descry snow-covered mountains at a great distance to the north, but that it was impossible to see so far in winter." He also said that he thought those mountains be- longed to an extensive countrj^, to which, he had heard his own father say, a chief of his tribe had once migrated with his horde in boats, but what had become of them was never afterwards heard. He had himself seen reindeer coming across the ice to Siberia from that land, and attributed to the inhabitants of that distant country the wounding of a whale which had been found stranded on an island off the Siberian Coast, with a slate-pointed spear still in its body. Wrangell, however, thouglit that the creature had been attacked by the natives of the Aleutian Islands, they being- known to use just such spear-heads. Proceeding eastward from Cape Chelagskoi on the 22d, the party soon arrived at Cape Kosmin, in latitude 70° 1', longitude 152 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 171° 55', the coast thence eastward bein^ irregular and hilly to the Werkou, the west headland of which Wrangell named in honor of Dr. Kyber. It measured 280 feet in height. To the small island two miles north he ajDplied the name of Scha- laroff, the merchant navigator who, as we have already ob- served, perished in that vicinity in 1765, The month of the Werkon was found to be eleven and one- half miles wide. About three miles from the shore and in line with its low eastern bank a depot of provisions was estab- lished, and, on the 25th, the remaining empty sledges were sent back. During the next two days, onh^ thirteen miles were covered, owing to the great extent of ice-hummocks. Another deposit of provisions was therefore made and eight more of the sledges were despatched homeward. From this point, while Ma-tinch-kin was advancing east- ward along the coast toward the North Cape, Wrangell, with only four sledges and five men, journeyed northward, in search of the "undiscovered north land.'' On the 29th the ice-floe upon which was Wrangell's party became separated from the main ice-field in a storm, but with the recurrence of better weather it again closed up. On the 31st the party advanced only six miles and were but ten miles from the coast. Finding the way to the north and northeast blocked by huge ice-hummocks, they turned toward the north- west on the 1st of April. After going about five miles they came to thin new ice. Over this they passed at full speed, the swiftness of the teams and the lightness of the sledges not, liowever, preventing them from repeatedly breaking through, the dogs as often and as quickly jerking them out as the keen sense of danger possessed by the animals incited them to great- er speed. Having crossed this tract of thin ice, their position was determined to be in latitude 70° 20', and longitude 174° 13'. On the next day, the 3d, they covered twenty miles. Again they became detached on the ice, but in the morning succeeded in reaching the main body by means of a pontoon-bridge of ice-blocks. From this point two sledges were sent back to the OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 153 depot, while Wrangell advanced northw^ard with the remain- ing two. On this day, the 4th, in latitude 70° 5', longitude 175' 27', about sixty miles from laud, an open channel, about 300 yards wide and extending east and west as far as the eye could reach, stopped farther progress. Says Wrangell: "We climbed one of the loftiest ice hills, affording an extensive view^ toward the north, and from thence we beheld the wide, im- measurable ocean spread out before our gaze. It was a fear- ful and magnificent spectacle, though to us a melanchol}^ one. Fragments of ice of enormous size were floating on the surface of the agitated ocean, and were dashed b}^ the waves with awful violence against the edge of the field on the farthest side of the channel before us. These collisions were so tremendous that large masses were every instant broken away, and it was evident that the portion of ice which still divided the channel from the open sea would soon be completely destroyed. Had we made the attempt to feriy ourselves across upon one of the detached pieces of ice there would have been no firm footing on reaching the opposite side. Even on our own side fresh lanes extended themselves in every direction in the field behind us. We could go no farther." Setting out on the return, they arrived on the night of the 5th at the second depot of provsions, finding it and the two returned sledges in good condition. Three daj-s later they be- came separated once more from the main ice field, on a floe about 450 feet wide. Wrangell thus describes their peril : "Every moment huge masses of ice floating around us were dashed against each other and broken into a thousand frag- ments. Meanwhile we were tossed to and fro by the waves, and gazed, in helpless inactivity, on the wild conflict of the elements, expecting every moment to be swallowed up. We had been three long hours in this painful position, and still our island held together, when suddenly it was caught by the storm and hurled against a large field of ice. The crash was terrific, and we felt the mass beneath us giving way, and sep- arating in every direction. At that dreadful moment, wlien destruction seemed inevitable, the impulse of self-preservation 154 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; implanted in every living being saved us. Instinctively, and with the quickness of thought, we sprang on the sledges and urged the dogs to their utmost speed. They flew across the yielding fragments of the field against which it had been stranded, and safely reached a part of it of tirmer character, on w^hich were several hummocks, and here the dogs immedi- ately ceased running, apparently conscious that the danger was passed." Uastening on to the first depot, they soon made way to shore and camped under a cliff near the mouth of the Werkon. This was in latitude 09° 51', longitude 173° 34'. While the other members were engaged in bringing away the supplies left at the depots, Wrangell examined and named Cape Ker-kur-noi, in latitude 69° 54', longitude 174° 34'. Some of the provisions left at the second depot could not be recovered owing to the breaking up of the ice. On the 14th of April, with provisions running low, the party started eastward, hoping to meet Ma-tinch-kin, who was absent in the tundra east of the Werkon. Having gone forty miles in that direction without meeting him, they were obliged to turn again to the west and make for the provisions cached at the Greater Ba-ran-i-cha, 200 miles distant. After travel- ing but six miles they joyfully met Ma-tinch-kin, with an abund- ance of supplies. This energetic man had, in the course of his journey, found a. hut on the coast east of the Werkon, which both he and Wrangell concluded had been erected by Schal-a-roff, in 1765, and who therefore evidently succeeded in the great object of his ambition, namely, the doubling of Cape Chelagskoi. At this point, latitude 69° 48', longitude 176° 10', a depot was established and eight sledges were also sent back, three being retained for Ma-tinch-kin and four for W^rangell. On the 20th W^rangell's party reached Cape Yakan, latitude 69° 42', longitude 176° 32', whence the ^'north country," accord- ing to some of the Chook-chees, was sometimes visible. Wran- gell, however, failed to see it. Three miles beyond, the Yakan River was attained, and nine miles beyond it, the party was OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 15o compelled to halt by reason of the warmth of the weather. Here they observed the bones of a whale stuck upright, and these the Chook-chees informed them were the remains of a dwelling of a small tribe formerly residing there. Forty miles farther east, in latitude 60° 28', longitude ITJ" 44', a lot of driftwood, mostly of fir and pine, was met with. Meanwhile, Ma-tinch-kin made one more sally on the north, taking his departure on the 21st, with three sledges and pro- visions for fifteen days. Having crossed Kuy-e-gau River, Wrangell's party halted on the next morning seven and a half miles beyond, in latitude 69° 12', longitude 179° 13'. Thirteen and a half miles farther along the coast and in a direct line a little south of east, they arrived at the headland discovered and named by Captain Cook, in 1778, namely, CAPE NORTH. Here they met a friendly tribe of Chook-chees. Its chief, E-tel, invited Wrangell to his tent, and said: ''There, look well at all those things, take from them what you like, and give me in return a gun, and powder and shot, as I am ver}- fond of hunt- ing, and am sure 1 could use a gun better than the mountain Chook-chees, among whom I once saw one, and shot with it." An exchange Avas accordingly effected for thirteen seals and a supply of fire-wood. On the 25th the party, with E-tel as guide, set out for Bur- ney Island, as named by Cook, but Kol-yu-chin as called by the natives. Having traveled fifty miles they halted at the huts of two Chook-chee families who were known to E-tel. Thirty- one miles farther on, beyond the E-kech-ta and Am-guy-im ^rivers, their position was found to be in lati,*^ude 68° 10', longi- tude 182° 6'. Here the tundra gave way to more elevated lands. On the 26th the party traveled nearly fifty miles to a small settlement on tlie Wan-ka-rem Uiver, near Cape Wan-ka-rem. Says Wrangell : "There is a remarkable similarity between the thi'ee promontories of Schelagskoi, Ir-kaipij (Cape North) and 156 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Waiikarem. They all consist of fine grained syenite, with greenish white feldspar, dark green hornblende and mica, and are united to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. The eleva- tion of the heciaiaiici and breadth of the isthmus are greatest at Oape Schelagskoi, and least at Cape Wankarem." Cape On-maii having baen doubled on the 27th, Kol-yu-chin, looking like a circular mountain, was observed twenty miles to the southeast in a bay of the same name. Pushing on to its southern shore, the party were soon sur- rounded by about seventy men of the village, who were eager to trade whale's flesh for tobacco and trinkets. Not having the means of extended barter Wrangell was obliged to discontinue his journey farther east. During two days of rest spent on the island Wrangell ascertained the south point to be in latitude 67° 27' by 184° 24'. He had reached the point attained by Captain Billings a third of a century pre- vious. Setting out on the return trip of GOO miles on the evening of the 29th, a three days' journey brought them to E-tel's hut just back of Cape North. On the i'iih of May they arrived at the point whence Ma- tinch-kin had started north, and found a cross erected by him, together with a note attached stating that the breaking-up of the ice had prevented him from advancing more than ten miles from the coast. He had therefore returned to Nishui Kolyinsk. On the 7th Wrangell's party slept at Schal-a-roff's hut. Six days later, with food for both men and dogs exhausted, they reached the village near Cape Chelagskoi. As the natives had caught but little game during their ab- sence they could give the travelers but little aid. Consequent- ly, with dogs foot-sore and weary, -they immediately pushed for the depot on the Greater Baranicha, arriving there on the 15th and at Nishni Kolymsk on the 22d. They had been absent sev- enty-eight days and had traveled 1,330 miles. Ma-tinch-kin had reached the place nearly a week previous. Upon the failure of his journey northward he had made a sur- vey of Chaun Bay. About the middle of July he aiul Dr. Ky- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 157 ber left for St. Petersburg, Wnmgell aud Kosmiu following toward the close of August, 1823. Thus terminated Wrangell's persistent efforts to reacli that unknown "north country," his failure resulting, as he himself surmised, in not having made Cape Yakan the base of opera- tions, be3M)nd which, as has since been ascertained, there lies in a direct northeast line onh' 103 miles from that headland, the object of his long search, the island which is now so worthily called in his honor — Wrangell Land. The work of Wrangell in Northern Siberia may well be associated with the heroic efforts of Franklin in North America during the same years. Ever on the lookout for the best interests of his country, this scholarh' German-lAUSsian opposed the sale of Alaska to the United States in 1867. He died in 1870, aged seventy-six. BELTED ICEBEKU. 11 158 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER VIII. PARRY'S SECOND VOYAGE. Pleased with the remarkable success of Parry's first voy- age by way of Lancaster Sound, the admiralty were not long in again fitting him out for a second time to search for the northwest passage. Parry's own plans were to look for this in the vicinity of Repulse Bay, the northwesternmost arm of Roe's Welcome, and his instructions were given accordingly. Lieutenant Lyon, distinguished for his travels in Northei-n Africa, was placed second in command of the expedition, which, with many of the officers who had accompanied Parry on the previous voyage, sailed in Maj^, 1821, on board the "Fury" and the "Hecla," each of about 375 tons burden and carrying a total complement of 118 men. On the 2d of July both vessels were in heavy ice and among huge icebergs off Resolution Island, at the entrance to Hud- son's Strait. One of those mountains of the sea towered above the surface to a height of 258 feet, and, allowing one-seventh as the proportion visible, extended 1,548 feet beneaih the water, thus having a total length of nearly one-third of a mile Fifty-four of them were visible at one time from the mast- head. On the 14th they sighted three strange vessels, which proved to belong to the Hudson's Bay Company. One of them was the "Lord Wellington," having on board 160 emigrant Hollanders, bound for Lord Selkirk's estate on the Red River. Says Commander Lyon, of the "Hecla": "While nearing these vessels we observed the SETTLERS WALTZING ON DECK, for above two hours, the men in old-fashioned gray jackets, and the women wearing long-eared mobcaps, like those used by the OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 159 Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and the tlier- mometer was at the freezing-point, it may be supposed that this ball, al vero fresco, afforded us much amusement." Several marriages had already taken place on board and more were pending. On July 21st a huge BEAR WEIGHING SIXTEEN HUNDRED pounds was killed. It measured, from tip of snout to inser- tion of tail, eight feet eight inches. Its flesh was found to be palatable, but, after taking from it a tub of blubber, the carcass was thrown overboard and soon attracted two wal- ruses to it. On the same day the vessels were visited by more than a hundred Eskimos, the male portion of the tribe coming in their kyaks, or men's boats, to the number of thirty, and the women in oomiaks, or women's boats, to the number of five. A kyak holds but one male, while an oomiak is made to accom- modate more than twenty women and children. The mem- bers of this tribe were found to be of a thieving disposition; they had evidently learned the vices of other and earlier voy- agers. Nevertheless they were eager to barter, consummating the bargain by licking the acquired article all over, be it even a razor. They were also a merry set. Says Commander Lyon: "It is quite out of my power to de- scribe the shouts, yells, and laughter of the savages, or the con- fusion which existed for two or three hours. The females were at first very shy, and unwilling to come on the ice, but bartered everj'thing from their boats. This timidity, however, soon wore off and they, in the end, became as noisy and bois- terous as the men." And again : "It is scarcely possible to con- ceive an^^thing more ugly or disgusting than the countenances of the old women, who had inflamed eyes, wrinkled skin, black teeth, and, in fact, such a forbidding set of features as scarcely could be called human; to which might be added their dress, which was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang- outangs, Frobisher's crew may be pardoned for having, in such superstitious times as A. D. 1.576, taken one of these ladies 160 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; for a witch, of whom it is said, 'The old wretch wliom our sailors supposed to be a witch had her buskius pulled off to see if she was cloven-footed; and being ver^' ugl}- and de- formed, we let her go.' " Ljon continues: "The strangers were so well pleased in our society that they showed no wish to leaA-e us, and when the market had quite ceased, they began dancing and playing with our people on the ice alongside. This exercise set many of their NOSES BLEEDING, and discovered to us a most nasty custom, which accounted for their gory faces, and which was, that as fast as the blood ran down, they scraped it with the fingers into their mouths, ap- pearing to consider it as a refreshment, or daint^^, if we might judge by the zest with which they smacked their lips at each supply." "* * * In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much as possible, the fiddler was set on the ice, when he in- stantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of whom some of the women kept pretty good time. Their only figure con- sisted in stamping and jumpiug with all their might. Our musician, who was a livel^^ fellow, soon caught the infection, and began CUTTING CAPERS also. In a short time every one on the floe, officers, men and savages, were dancing together, and exhibited one of the most extraordinaiw sights I ever Avitnessed. One of our seamen, of a fresh, ruddy complexion, excited the admiration of all the young females, who patted his face and danced around him wherever he went. "The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esquimaux that they had the appearance of being boisterously drunk, and played many extraordinary pranks. Among others, it was A FAVORITE JOKE to run slyly behind the soauieu, and shouting loudly in one oar, to give them at the same time a very smart slap on the a. ^- o .5 The Three Graces. — Upernavik. (Sec pages 99, 100, etc.j OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 161 other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this man- ner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the great amusement of the bystanders; our cook, who was a most active and un- wearied jumper, became so great a favorite that every one boxed his ears so soundly as to oblige the poor man to retire from such boisterous marks of approbation. Among other sports, some of the Esquimaux rather roughly, but with great good humor, challenged our people to wrestle. One man, in particular, who had thrown several of his countrymen, ATTACKED AN OFFICER of a very strong make, but the poor savage was instantly thrown, and with no very easy fall; yet, although every one was laughing at him, he bore it with exemplary good humor. The same officer afforded us much diversion by teaching a large party of women to bow, courtesy, shake hands, turn their toes out, and perform sundry other polite accomplishments; the whole party, master and pupils, preserving the strictest gravity. "Toward midnight all our men, except the watch on deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and hungry Esqui- maux returned to their boats to take their supper, which con- sisted of lumps of raw flesh and blubber of seals, birds, entrails, etc., licking their lingers with great zest, and with knives or fingers scraping the blood and grease which ran down their chins into their mouths." The next day the ships progressed with favoring winds. The ice-floes. Parry observed, were covered with small stones, sand, and shells, while on many of them were masses of rock weighing more than a hundred pounds and in the middle por- tion of floes a half mile square. August 1st Southampton Island was reached. Proceed- ing along its northern shore more of the Eskimos were met with, of whom it was observed that they wore BIRD-SKIN SHIRTS with the feathers placed next to the body. Rugged cliffs 1,000 1(52 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; feet high and caves in great beds of gneiss were seen. In one of these caverns Parrj' and Mr. James C. Ross erected a tent and spent a night. Their boat's crew caught in the holes on the beach a sufficient quantity of sillocks, or young coal-fish, for two meals for the entire ship's compan3\ During the night also HUNDREDS OF WHITE WHALES were seen close to the rocks, and were probably feeding on the sillocks. Previous to this, narwhales, or sea-unicorns, some- times as many as twenty in a school, were seen about the ships. Fine weather afforded ample opportunit}^ of observing them in a calm sea. They were about twenty feet in length includ- ing the spirally-twisted horn of ivory, five or six feet long. The next day, Duke of York's Bay, "one of the most secure and extensive in the whole world," was discovered and named. It lies in the northwestern portion of the island and opens into the Frozen Strait, named by Captain Middleton in 1742 on his voyage of discover}^ to Roe's Welcome and Wager River in that year. On the bay Parry discovered the ruins of an Eskimo set- tlement and nine or ten burial-cairns about three feet high and as many wide at the base. In these cairns were found a skull, an arrow-head, spear heads, and miniature canoes. August 22d found the expedition in Repulse Bay, latitude GG° 30' 58", or nearly a mile north of the Arctic Circle. A long- cove of the ba}^ is described by Captain Lyon as being at that time literally COVERED WITH YOUNG EIDER DUCKS who were taking their first lessons in swimming. On the day following was begun the careful examination of GOO miles of coast-line northward and including Ross' Bay. Much game was found and it was "enacted that for the purpose of econo- mizing the ships' provisions, all deer or musk-oxen killed should be served out in lieu of the usual allowance of meat. Hares, ducks and other birds were not at this time to be in- cluded. As an encouragement to sportsmen, the head, legs OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 163 and offal of the larger animals were to be perquisites of those who procured the carcasses for the general good." Says Lyon: "In the animals of this day w^e were convinced that OUR SPORTSMEN had not forgotten the latitude to which their perquisites might legally extend, for the necks were made so long as to encroach considerably on the vertebrae of the back, a manner of ampu- tating the heads which had been learned during the former voyage, and, no doubt, would be strictly acted up to in the present one." A fine salmon trout was caught in one of the mountain lakes. The men on board the "Hecla" killed in two weeks four deer, forty hares, eighty-two ptarmigans, fifty ducks, three divers, three foxes, three ravens, four seals, mice, marmottes, ermines, etc. Tw^o of the seals were of the bearded sj)ecies (phoca barbata), and weighed eight or nine hundred pounds each. Owing to the rapid growth of the young ice, w^hich was now^ three and a half inches thick, on the 8th of October, head- quarters were established on WINTER ISLAND near the mouth of Ivoss' Bay. Here the monotony of time and place was varied b^' various musical and theatrical perform- ances. The usual antiscorbutics, mustard and cress, were grown in shallow boxes filled with mold and kept in each mess room. A "crop" was grown every eight or ten days. A surprise party consisting of numerous Eskimos put in an appearance on the first of February. They were cleanly, honest, and affectionate. In speaking of them. Parry grows enthusiastic. He was particularly impressed with the aptness of a j^oung boy and a girl to learn and to comprehend the ways of the kab- loo-nahs, or white men. They were related as brother and sis- ter, the girl's name being Ig-loo-lik. She was fond of music, and her intelligence made her a very desirable interpreter between the Europeans and her people. Observing that they 164 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; were acquainted with the four cardinal points of the compass, Parry placed in her hand a pencil and requested her to outline the coast as she understood it. Beginning with the region of Winter Island, she traced the coast northward as far as the afterwards discovered Fury and Ilecla Strait, thence westward to its terminus in the Gulf of Boothia, and so on southeasterly' to within a short distance of Kepulse Bay. She had thus delin- eated the coast of her native Ak-koo-lee, the Melville Peninsula of the geographies. This party of Eskimos numbered sixty souls, and were liv- ing in five huts recently erected entirely of snow and ice, not far from the ships. "^After creeping through two low pas- sages having each its arched doorway, we came to a small cir- cular apartment, of which the roof was a perfect arched dome. From this three doorways, also arched, and of larger .dimen- sions than the outer ones, led into as many inhabited apart- ments, one on each side, and the other facing us as w^e entered. The women were seated on the beds at the sides of the huts, each having her little fireplace or lamp, with all her domestic utensils about her. The children crept behind their mothers, and the dogs slunk past us in dismay. The construction of this inhabited part of the hut was similar to that of the outer apartment, being a dome formed by separate blocks of snow laid with great regularity, anay during the months of July and August, arrived, on the 10th of September, at the entrance of Lancaster Sound. On one occasion previous to this the "Ilecla" was laid on her broadside by a strain in the ice which must have crushed an ordinary vessel. With much difficulty Parry now made his way to Prince Regent's Inlet, on the eastern shore of wdiich, in, PORT BOWEN, he resolved to spend his fourth winter in the Arctic regions. Arriving here on the 27th of September, the ships remained imprisoned till the following 20th of July. During the win- ter season the sun was absent 121 days, returning on the 22d of February, but from the tops of the encircling cliffs could be seen on the 2d, while the thermometer, for 131 days, remained below zero, rising above that point on the 11th of April, OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 173 Although schools, scientific observations, walking and ex- ploring parties greatly relieved the monotony of their impris- onment, yet much ingenuity was necessary in devising any plan sufficiently novel to break the general ennui. Says Parry: "It is hard to conceive any one thing more like another than two winters passed in the higher latitudes of the polar regions, except when variety happens to be afforded by intercourse with some branch of the whole family of man. Winter after winter nature here assumes an aspect so much alike that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature of variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw, which at once gives variety and comparative cheerful- ness to the prospect. But here, when once the earth is cov- ered, all is dreary monotonous whiteness, not merely for days or weeks, but for more than a half of a year together. Which- ever way the eye is turned, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless torpor with which our feelings have nothing con- genial; of anything, in short, but life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a human spectator appears out of keeping. The presence of man seems an intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its native ani- mals have for a while forsaken." Happily, Lieutenant Hoppuer hit upon the idea of holding MASK BALLS. one each month, and great diversion was thereby afforded to both officers and men. In these masquerades Parry joined heartily and thus writes: "It is impossible that any idea could have proved more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions readily took their paHs, and many of these were supported with a degree of spirit and genuine good humor which would not have dis- graced a more refined assembly; while the latter might not 12 174 THE SEARCH FOE- THE NORTH POLE; have been disgraced bj' copying the good order, decorum and inoffensive cheerfulness which onr humble masquerades pre- sented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and good sense of our men, that though all the officers entered fully into the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a month alternately on board of each ship, no instance occurred of any- thing that could interfere with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men toward their superiors. Ours were masquerades without licentiousness — carnivals without excess." In the course of their imprisonment Lieutenant J. C. Ross examined the shore northward to Cape York, and Lieutenant Sherer the coast line southward to Cape Kater, latitude 72° 13', while Commander Hoppner journeyed inland nearly two de- "orees over a deeply-ravined country to latitude 73° 19'. Lieu- tenant Foster, in establishing a meridian mark, found that he could carry on a conversation with his assistant at the dis- tance of a mile and two-tenths. The weather was serene and the temperature 18° below zero at the time. Many polar bears were seen in this region and twelve killed. On two occasions the MATERNAL AFFECTION of these brutes was show^n in the stubborn defense of their young, when they might have escaped. But while this quality is' highly developed in these creatures it must not be over- looked that hatred of each other is not wanting in their na- ture. Only a few years ago, in the Zoological Garden of Co- logne, there took place A MORTAL COMBAT between a couple of them. They had been captured five years previous, in Spitzbergen, and confined in a large pit contain- ing a tank in the center. A quarrel finally ensuing between them, the female took refuge upon a large rock in the corner of the pit, where she remained for three days. Pressed by hunger, she descended and was furiously assailed by the male OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 175 bear. In attempting to separate the combatants the keepers belabored the head of the male with iron bars, but the bones being so much thicker than those of an ordinary bear, their blows were unavailing. , Continuing to spend his fur}^, the enraged beast tore the body of his companion INTO STRIPS OF BLEEDING FLESH, dragged her to the tank and held her beneath the water till he felt that life was extinct. Bringing the mangled mass again to the floor of the pit he then dragged it round the tank for nearly an hour. After this, he sought his , sleeping-den and the keepers immediately closed the iron bars upon him. The dead bear had received more than a hundred wounds, its neck and head being crushed to a jelly. During the conflict neither a cry nor any other sound was heard from either of the bears. Besides bears slain at Port Bowen, one or two foxes were killed and four trapped. One of these was tamed on board the "Fury." The color of its fur was nearly pure white, till, in May, it became a dirty chocolate containing two or three brown spots. But three Arctic hares were secured. The fur of these was thick and soft, and of a most beautiful whiteness. An ermine and a few moose were also killed and, in June, several hundred dovekies. In attempting to obtain some of these, John Cottrell, a seaman from the "Fury," was drowned through a crack in the ice. On the 12th of July a white whale was killed and the oil saved for use in the following winter. Hun- dreds of these creatures were seen in this part of the inlet. At last, on July 20th, the vessels sailed from Port Bowen, and, eight days later, were on the west shore of the inlet, off North Somerset. Here the "Hecla" became beset hj the ice and drifted with it for two days. A heavy gale on the 31st caused the "Hecla" to carry away three hawsers and the "Fury" to strand on the beach, but she was again hove off with high tide. Both ships now drifted down the inlet with the ice till they grounded. The "Fury" had been so strained that she leaked and four pumps kept constantly at work could not clear 176 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; her of water. They were again tloated ou high tide, but the ^^Fiirj^" was a second time driven on shore, and a second time, gotten off. Various attempts were now made to repair her, until, on the 21st, a gale drove her, for a third time, upon the shore. Here Parry reluctantlj^ abandoned her, and says: "Every endeavor of ours to get her off, or if got off, to float her to any known place of safety, would be at once utterly hope- less in itself and productive of extreme risk to our remaining ship." Incessant efforts to save her had been continued for twen- ty-five days. She was left alone just north of Greswell Bay. The "Hecla" now made her way to Neill's Harbor, a little south of Port Bowen, where she was put in readiness for re- crossing the Atlantic, While here, John Page, a seaman from the "Fury," died and was buried with due respect. Putting to sea on August 31st, the "Hecla" was in Baffin's Bay by Sep- tember 7th. Here from thirty to forty icebergs at least 200 feet in height were sighted on its eastern side in latitude 75° ?>()'. The "Hecla" continued toward England by way of the Orkney Islands and arrived in the Thames on the 20th of Oc- tober, but two men having been lost during the entire voyage of both vessels. iNOW VILLAGE Turf and Stone Huts.— Upernavik. (See pages 99, 100, etc.) ■^ ^^J^:^ (See Chapter XXIX.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WOxiLD. i77 CHAPTER XI. FRANKLIN'S SECOND EXPEDITION AND THE VOYAGE OF THE "I5LOSSOM." Down the Mackenzie next became the watchwords of Frank- lin, Back, and Richardson as, returning from their almost life- taking descent of the Coppermine, the^^ volunteered to prose- cute further researches along the northern shore of Xorth America. With heroic ambition THE DYING WIFE of Franklin had presented him with a small silk iiag which she had made with her own hands, and bade him depart on the day set by the admiralty. When, on the following day, she l)assed away and the news of the sad event was brought to him, he manfully repressed his feelings of deep sorrow that his officers and men might not become disspirited, and x)ressed forward on his long journey to the Polar Sea. The officers of the expedition, having sailed from Liverpool to Xew York, proceeded through Canada where, at a point about 200 miles south of Lake Athabasca, they Joined the men who had come by way of Hudson's Bay and thence to the point stated, whence the entire party pushed on to Fort Chipewyan, on the west end of Lake Athabasca. Arriving here about the middle of July, Franklin obtained additional supplies and en- gaged the services of some of the Indians who had accompanied him on the preyious journey, and then proceeded to the Great Bear Lake, where winter-quarters were established in huts of wood and stone, and the place was named PORT FRANKLIN. While Lieutenant Back and Mr. Dease, an officer of the 1.78 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Hudson's Bay Company, were engaged in the work of thus ar- ranging for the winter, Dr. Kichardson was sent to locate a suitable point upon the Coppermine to which he should ascend from the mouth of that river in the course of the following summer, while Franklin and a small party made a preliminary descent of 'the Mackenzie to its mouth. Says Franklin: "Im- mediately on reaching the sea, I caused to be hoisted THE SILK FLAG which my deeply-lamented wife had made and presented to me as a parting gift, under the express injunction that it was not to be unfurled until the expedition reached the sea. I will not attempt to describe my emotions as it expanded to the breeze; however natural and irresistible, I felt that it was my duty to suppress them, and that I had no right by an in- dulgence of my own sorrows to cloud the animated counte- nances of my companions. Joining, therefore, with the best grace I could command, in the general excitement, I endeav- ored to return with corresponding cheerfulness their warm congratulations on having thus planted the British flag on this remote island of the Polar Sea." Franklin returned to winter-quarters on the 5th of Sep- tember, from which time forward exploration was confined to territorj^ near at hand and until the 2Sth of June following, on which date Franklin and Back, with two boats and four- teen men, and Dr. Kichardson and Lieutenant Kendall, with two boats and ten men, began the descent of the Mackenzie, at the delta-like mouth of which they separated on the 3d of July, Richardson and Kendall proceeding eastward to the mouth of the Coppermine, while Franklin and Back directed their course westward in the hope of effecting a junction with Captain Beechey, who had been despatched in the "Blossom," by wa}^ of Cape Horn and Bering Strait, with instructions to proceed thence eastward in the endeavor to meet Franklin. At the mouth of the Mackenzie, Franklin's detachment fell OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 179 iu with a large party of Eskimos, wlio, seizing Franklin, held him fast while his BOAT WAS PILLAGED. Fortunately^, Back came upon the scene, and, ordering his men to take aim with their muskets, the natives sued for peace and averted bloodshed. Continuing westward to longitude 149° 37' west, and failing to meet with any of Captain Beechey's party, although at that time Mr. Elson, leading a detachment from the "Blossom," was not distant 160 miles, Franklin decided to retrace his course. He was in part influenced to take this step through hearing that a tribe of hostile Indians were awaiting his advance. He had traced 374 miles of coast. Ascending the Mackenzie, he ar- rived at headquarters September 30th. Richardson and Kendall had reached there on the first of the month. They had, after leaving the mouth of the Macken- zie, proceeded 500 miles eastward through Dolphin and Union Strait, named after their boats, into Coronation Gulf, the out- let of the Coppermine, thus adding to the charts 902 miles of coast line. Ascending the Coppermine, the^^ arrived at Fort Franklin, as stated. Here, although the weather was intensely cold, the ther- mometer on one occasion sinking to 58° below zero, a second winter — 1826-7 — was spent in good cheer and good health. Dr. Richardson gave lectures on practical geology, while Mr. Drum- mond contributed information on natural history. Living iu a lonely hut on the Rocky Mountains, he contrived, in the course of the winter, to collect more than 200 specimens of animals, birds, etc., and to gather more than 1,500 plants, many of which had not been classified before. The results of the expedition were gratifying beyond expectation, and the party returned to England in the summer of 1827. While Parry was searching for the Northwest Passage for the third time, and endeavors to communicate with him by the Richardson and Kendall detachment of Franklin's second expedition were being prosecuted by way of the shore lying- east of the mouth of the Mackenzie River, Franklin and Back 180 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; were striving to effect a junction to the westward of the mouth of that stream, with Captain F. W. Beeehey, who, in the gun- shif) ^'Blossom," had been despatched in May, 1825, by way of BERING'S STRAIT, in order to replenish the supplies of both Franklin and Parry, should they succeed in reaching those waters. Although but twenty-nine years of age, Beeehey had seen service with Franklin in 1818 and Parry in 1819, and was well qualified for his task. On the 28th of June, 1826, the "Blossom" anchored off Petro-paul-owsky, in Kamchatka, where he met Baron Wrau- gell, the great Arctic sledge traveler, from whom he learned of Parry's return to England. Coasting northward, the towering peaks of the peninsula, twenty-eight of them active volcanoes, were in plain view. Covered with snow, and many of them raising their fantastic summits from 10,000 to 1(;,.jOO feet high, huge columns of dark smoke waved and rolled like so many giants' banners in the air. Pressing on through the strait, he reached the appointed rendezvous at Chamisso Island, in Kotzebue Sound, on the 25th of July. Here, on Puffin Rock, a barrel of flour was bur- ied, and then followed the surveying and examining of the coast lying to the northeast. Posts and other landmarks were erected and dispatches for Franklin deposited. A barge, or small boat, had been despatched under Messrs. Ekson and Smyth, to keep close to the shore the better to observe any traces of Franklin's party. On August 25th A REMARKABLE AURORA BOREALIS was observed, and Beeehey thus speaks concerning it: "It first appeared in an arch extending west-by-north to northeast; but the arch, shortly after its first appearance, broke up and entirely disappeared. Soon after this, however. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 131 a new displaj^ began in the direction of the western foot of the first arch, preceded by a bright flame, from which ema- nated coruscations of a pale straw color. Another simulta- neous movement occurred at both extremities of the arch, until a complete segment w^as formed of wavering perpendic- ular radii. As soon as the arch was complete the light became greatly increased, and the prismatic colors, which had before been faint, now shone forth in a brilliant manner. The strong- est colors, which were also the outside ones, were pink and green, on the green side purple and pink, all of which were as imperceptibly blended as in the rainbow. The green was the color nearest the zenith. This magnificent display lasted a few minutes; and the light had nearly vanished, when the northeast quarter sent forth a vigorous display, and nearly at the same time a corresponding coruscation emanated from the opposite extremity. The western foot of the arch then disengaged itself from the horizon, crooked to the northward, and the whole retired to the northeast quarter, where a bright spot blazed for a moment, and all was darkness. There was no noise audible daring any part of our observations." Strangeh^ too, the compasses were not perceptibly affected. On the 28th the ''Blossom" returned to Chamisso Island and found that the barrel of flour had been dug up and appro- priated by the natives. Beechey had met some of these peo- ple as he entered the strait. They were very familiar with the region, and with a stick designated upon the sand the coast line as far as Cape Krusenstern, regulating distances by the daj^'s journey. Elevations of sand or stones represented hills and ranges of mountains, while collections of pebbles indi- cated groups of islands, their relative sizes being carefully shown, yillages and fishing-stations along the coast were designated by means of sticks placed upright, in imitation of the poles erected wdierever these people have their abode. Meanwhile, Elson and Smyth had advanced northeastward until, on the 22d, their progress was stopped by a long point of land, named by Beechey, Point Barrow. They were then 182 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; but 146 miles from Iveturn Reef, wbeDce Franklin bad set out on bis return to Fort Enterprise, but four days previous. THE HOSTILE ATTITUDE of tbe natives now prevented Elson's fartber progress, and be and bis seven companions tberefore retraced tlieir course, rejoining tbe ''Blossom" on tbe 9tb of September at Cbamisso Island. Here Beecbej again buried a barrel of flour for Frank- lin and, witb but five weeks' provisions remaining, sailed for California, and tbe Sandwicb and otber islands of tbe Pacific, w^bere be resupplied tbe "Blossom" and returned to Cbamisso Island on July 5, 1827. Tbe flour and dispatcbes deposited tbe previous year bad not been molested. Lieutenant Belcber was sent witb tbe barge to explore tbe coast to tbe nortbward, but tbe boat was wrecked and tbree of tbe men were lost. On tbe 9tb of Sep- tember, tbe "Blossom" went aground, but was got off safely at bigb tide. On tbe 29tb a conflict ensued between tbe sbip's crew and tbe Eskimos, in wbicli seven of tbe wbites were wounded witb arrows, and one Eskimo was killed. On tbe 6tb of October, tbe "Blossom" sailed from Cbamisso Island, rounding Cape Horn in a snow-storm on tbe last day of June, 1828, and arrived in England on tbe 12tb of October following, after an absence of nearly tbree years and five montbs. Franklin bad preceded bim a year. LAMP. The mending done by Eskii OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 18^] CHAPTER XII. PARRY'S FOURTH VOYAGE. Although but a few months home from his third Arctic voyage, Parry, iu 1S2G, striiclv with the suggestions of Scoresby in a paper read before the Weruerian Society and the plan of Franklin proposed some time previous, offered his services to the Admiralty to undertake a fourth voyage, this time in quest of the NORTH POLE, by way of the Spitzbergen group of islands. True to their young leader, and sharing his enthusiasm, his former com- panions gathered round his standard. These were Lieutenants J. 0. Ross, Foster, Bird, and Crozier, and Messrs. Halse and Beverly. The crew being appointed, the expedition sailed in the "Hecla," April 4, 1827. On the 19tli Hammerfest Harbor was reached, and here Parry and Lieutenant Foster remained to prosecute magnetic and other scientific studies, while Lieutenant Crozier pro- ceeded to Alten, sixty miles distant, to procure reindeer, eight of which were purchased for the purpose of drawing the sledges over the ice of the Arctic Ocean. Concerning these animals, Parry thus writes: "Nothing can be more beautiful than the training of the Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin around his neck, a single tface of the same material attached to the sledges and passing between his legs, and one rein fastened like a halter about his neck, this intelligent and docile animal 184 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; is perfectly under the command of an experienced driver, and performs ASTONISHING JOURNEYS over tlie softest snow. When the rein is thrown over on the off side of the animal, he immediately sets off at a full trot, and stops short the instant it is thrown back to the near side. Shaking the rein over his back is the only Avhip that is re- quired. In a short time after setting off they appear to be gasping for breath, as if quite exhausted; but, if not driven too fast at first, they recover, and then go on without difficulty. The quantity of clean moss considered requisite for each deer per day is four pounds; but they will go five or six days with- out provender and not suffer materially. As long as they can pick up snow as they go along, which they like to eat quite clean, they require no water, and ice is to them a comfortable bed." Again setting sail on the 29th, they arrived, on May 5th, in latitude 73° 30', and longitude 7° 28' east, Avhere they met loose ice. Two days later the "Ilecla" had made 110 miles farther northward, in latitude 74° 55', and a few miles east of the meridian of Mreeuwich. Here was met a continuous stream of ice. On the 10th, Parry fell in with some whaling-vessels which were endeavoring to reach latitude 78°, south of which it w^as not expected that whales could be found. During the night the "Hecla" and the whalers made fifty miles north- ward. On the 14th the ^'Ilecla" passed Magdalena Bay, and, arriving off Ilakluyt Headland, worked thence southeastward to Smerenburg Harbor, wliich they found completely frozen over. Here they saw walruses, dovekies and eider-ducks in vast numbers. Four wild reindeer came to them on the ice. May 22d, Lieutenant James C. Ross, with officers and men, effected a landing over the ice, and, upon a hillock, found two lonely graves dated 1741 and 1762. A quantity of fir drift- wood was also seen. ^ Five days later an attempt was made to proceed north- ward by means of the sledge-boats, but was given up on ac- count of the extreme roughness of the ice. On the 29th and OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 185 30tli, Lieiiteuauts Foster and Crozier deposited a boat-load of provisions on Red Beach, six miles distant. B}^ the first of June, as Parry was about to undertake again the journey northward, the ^'Hecla" began to move east with the drift-ice and reached Mussel Bay on the 6th, where Parry and Ouliers landed to deposit provisions. Two days later the vessel was again free of ice by reason of a south wind. During the three weeks previous the weather had been beautiful, day after day being clear and cloudless, with scarcely au}^ wind, the temperature of the air being warm, while the sun was scorching. On June 3d a shower of rain fell, and on the 0th it rained quite hard for two or three hours. From the 8th to the 10th the weather was ^'thick," and Parry made for Brandy wine Bay, with Low and Walden islands in sight. Thence the "Hecia" pushed northward to 80° 43' 32", the Seven Islands being seen to the east, while the Little Table Island, a mere crag 400 feet high, was visible nine or ten miles to the east-northeast, "This island," writes Parry, "being the northernmost known land in the world, naturally excited much of our curiosit^' ; and bleak and barren and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it with intense interest." At midnight, on the 14th, the explorers were in latitude 81° 5' 32", and longitude 19° 34' east. Doubling back they deposited provisions on Walden and Little Table islands. Pro- ceeding still southward they arrived on the 20th near Ver- legen Hood — so called by the Dutch — but named by Parry Ilecla Cove. This was in latitude 79° 55', and longitude 16° 49' east. From this harbor two boats, the "Enterprise" and "En- deavor," w^ere made ready for another attempt to proceed northward. Parry and Dr. Beverly accompanied one of the boats, while Lieutenant Ross and Mr. Bird went with the other. Lieutenant Crozier accompanied the party with a supply of provisions as far as Walden and Low islands. Ar- riving at Little Table Island on the 23d, Parry, at 10:30 p. m., started on the memorable journey that established the then 186 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; "farthest uorth." By miduiglit the party had attained lati- tude 80° 51' 13", and by noou of the 24tli, latitude 81° 12' 51". Not until a month later, viz., on July 23d, did these persistent men attain the farthest northerly point then reached by man, 82° 45'. In making this journey they had been absent thirty- three days, and what they encountered is best told in the language of the never-discouraged Parry: "Traveling by night, and sleeping bj^ day, so completely inverted the natural order of things that it was difficult to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the officers and myself, who were all furnished with pocket chronometers, could not always bear in mind at what part of the twenty-four hours we had arrived, and there were several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that they never knew night from day during the whole excursion. "When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by praj-ers, after which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses and put on clothes for traveling; the former being made of camlet, lined with raccoon skin, and the latter of strong blue cloth. We made a point of always putting on the same stockings and boots for traveling in, whether the3' had been dried dur- ing the da}^ or not, and I believe it was only in five or six instances at the most that thej' were not either still wet or hard frozen. This, indeed, was of no consequence beyond the discomfort of first putting them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroughlj^ wet in a quarter of an hour after com- mencing our journey; while on the other hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in. Being 'rigged' for traveling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and bis- cuit, and after stowing the things in the boats and on the sledges so as to secure them as much as possible from wet, we set off on our day's journey, and usually traveled four, five, or even six hours, according to circumstances." Halting early in the morning for rest, "Every man then immediately put on dry stockings and fur boots, after which we set about the necessary repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes, and after serving the provisions for the succeeding daj^, we went to supper. Most of the officers and men then smoked OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 1S7 their pipes, which served to dry the boats and awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of Our lodgings 10" or 15°. This part of the twenty-four hours was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us; the men told their stories and fought all their battles o'er again, and the labors of the day, unsuccessful as they too often were, were forgot- ten. A regular watch was set during our resting time, to look out for bears, or for the ice breaking up round us, as well as to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man alternately taking this duty for one hour. We then concluded our day with prayers, and having put on our fur dresses, lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort which perhaps but few per- sons would imagine possible under such circumstances, our chief inconvenience being that we were somewhat pinched for room, and therefore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agreeable." On the day following their attainment of the farthest north, Lieutenant Koss killed a she bear, the flesh of which was eagerly eaten by the meat-hungry men. Thus far animal life appeared to be scarce, a single gull, a solitary rotge, two seals, and TWO FLIES being all that they had seen during the entire outward journey. Owing to the drifting of the ice, the partj^ were at this time being carried backward faster than they could advance north- v\'ard, and, according!}^, Parry began the return journey on July 27th, arriving finally, on the 21st of August, oiice more cm board the "Hecla," after an absence of sixt3'-one days, dur- ing which time they had traveled, all told, 1,127 statute miles. -On the return journey an abundance of animal life was visible. On August 8th seven or eight narwhales were seen, and not less than 200 rotges, or little auks, a flock of which occurred in every hole of water. On the 11th, in latitude 81° 30', the sea was observed to be crowded with shrimps and other sea crustaceans, on which numerous birds were feeding. Returning to England in September, Parry retired from 188 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Arctic service, tboiigh alwa^^s taking great interest in every- tliiug that pertained to the solution of tlie ])iobleui for which he had made five voyages, in four of which he had commanded, and in the other one had been second in command. As late as 1845 we find him addressing Sir John Barrow as follows: "It is evident that the causes of failure in our former attempt, in the year 1827, were principally two: first, and chiefly, the broken, rugged, and soft state of the ice over which we traveled; and secondly, the drifting of the whole body of ice in a southerly direction. ''My amended plan is to go out with a single ship to Spitz- bergen, just as we did in the 'Hecla,' but not so early in the season; the object for that year being merely to find secure winter quarters as far north as possible. For this purpose it would only be necessary to reach Hakluyt's Headland by the end of June, which would afford ample leisure for examining the more northern lands, especially about the Seven Islands, where, in all probabilit}, a secure nook might be found for the ship. * * * The winter might be usefully emploj^ed in various preparations for the journey, as well as in mag- netic, astronomical, and meteorological observations, of high interest in that latitude. I propose that the expedition should leave the ship in the course of the month of April, when the ice would present one hard and unbroken surface, over which, as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult to make good thirty miles per day, without any exposure to wet, and prob- ably without snow-blindness. At this season, too, the ice would probably be stationary, and thus the two great difficul- ties which we formerly had to encounter would be entirely obviated. It might form a part of the plan to push out sup- plies previously, to the distance of 100 miles, to be taken up on the way, so as to commence the journey comparatively light; and as the intention would be to complete the enter- prise in the course of the month of May, before any disruption of the ice, or any material softening of the surface had taken place, similar supplies miglit be sent out to the same distance, to meet the party on their return." OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 18!) This plan, it seems to tlie writer of these pages, is a good one, and it is to be regretted that the long experience of the energetic Parry could not have executed it. His advanced years, doubtless, alone prevented his undertaking it. This gallant knight of the sea and ice survived till 1855. GAME OF CUP AND BALL. 13 190 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER XIII. SECOND VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN ROSS.— DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE. Deeply cliagriued at the failure of his efforts in 1818, Cap- tain Johu Koss, the pioneer of Arctic exploration in the nine- teenth century, vainly endeavored to induce the government to send him again on a polar voyage. Notwithstanding the ignominj^ then attaching, to his professional name, for ten years he persevered and si)ent |15,000 of his own fortune in the prosecution of his object. He had fought with bravery and skill during the war with the French, from 1793-1815, and was determined to win laurels as an Arctic explorer as well. Finally, he found an able supporter in the person of Felix Booth, a man of wealth and public spirit. Through him, Ross was enabled to purchase a side-wheel steamer of 150 tons burden and to provision it for three years. The generosity of Booth deserves double emphasis from the fact that, at his own request, the Parliamentary reward of |100,000 for the discovery of the Northwest Passage was re- voked, that he might not be charged with mercenary motives. Thus did Ross anticipate the use of steam in Arctic navi- gation, this being the first time that a tHal was made of it for that purpose, and although the machinery in Ross' vessel was soon found to be unserviceable it but served to illustrate the utility of steam with proper application. The expedition numbered twenty-eight men and sailed on board the "Victory," May 23, 1829. Previous to her departure the ship was VISITED BY MANY NOTABLES. among them being Louis Philippe, the future king of the French, OR, LIFE IN THE GRE'AT WHITE WORLD. 191 Arriving off the coast of Greenland about the middle of June, the "Victory" put in at the Danish settlement of Hol- steinberg, where damaged spars and rigging were repaired. Again sailing on the 26th, the sea was found clear in Baftin's Bay, Lancaster Sound, and well down into Prince Regent's Inlet. Here, on August 12th, a formidable barrier of ice was encountered. On the next day the place where the "Fury" had been abandoned four years previous, was reached, and al- though no traces of Parry's old ship were to be found, her stores still remained in perfect condition on shore. From these the "Victory" replenished her supplies for three years from date, besides leaving a considerable quantity for possible fu- ture navigators. By the end of September, 300 miles of heretofore undis- covered coast had been explored. A landing having been effected, the territory was named BOOTHIA FELIX, with Bellot Strait on the north, the Gulf of Boothia on the east, and Franklin Strait on the northwest. Mary Jones' Bay having been discovered on the east coast of this new territory, here, in Felix Harbor, WINTER-QUARTERS were established on September 17, 1829. They were soon frozen in and nothing of unusual interest occurred until, on January 9, 1830, the "Victor}^" was visited by a very large party of Eskimos. They were of neater ap- pearance than those who had visited Parry farther south and were familiar with the geograph}' of the region in a very intelligible manner. The women displayed a higher degree of intelligence in this respect than the men. As Parry met his Ig-loo-lik, so Ross found his Te-rik-sin, as the gifted female geographers of those regions. On April 5th Captain Ross, with Thomas Blanky and two Eskimo guides, set out to explore a strait reported to lead 192 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Avestward, and wliieli, it was hoped, eoiiiiiiiiiiicated with the western sea. On the 8th the party came to a large bay instead, and this, facing west, opened into the sea. In the interior, a large lake, called Nie-ty-le by the natives, was discovered. On this jonrney Captain Koss, as was afterwards ascertained, approached to within ten miles of the North Magnetic Pole. Learning that no strait existed farther sonth, Ross neverthe- less traced the coast about sixt}^ miles in that direction. On the 17th of May Lieutenant James Clark lioss, nepnew to the Captain and second in command of the expedition, set out with three companions and a sledge drawn by eight dogs, for the i)urpose of making explorations farther west. Cross- ing the ice on a strait, which has since been called in his honor, young Ross discovered Matty Island, and, still farther westward, KING WILLIAM'S LAND, reaching its northernmost point on May 20th. This he named Cape Felix, and from it beheld, in the northwest, the wide ex- panse of sea now known as McClintock Channel, and, in the southwest, a channel which he called Victoria Strait. Along this last mentioned he now proceeded to a headland which was named Point Victory, a more distant one being honored with the name of Franklin. Distant now 200 miles from the ship and with but few provisions left, this brave young scientist, after having erected a cairn and deposited therein the customary records, set out on the return. To such straits were they now reduced that six of the dogs perished from exhaustion and doubtless they themselves were saved from the same fate through meeting with a tribe of Eskimos, who supplied them with fresh fish and among whom they rested a day before proceeding to the ship, which they reached on May 13th. Not until September ITtli, after an imprisonment of eleven months, was the ^^A^ictory" again free of ice. Unfortunately, she advanced but a few miles when the ice of another season held her fast and winter quarters were again made ready. °V-^ 'S,, '^^ '''* W ! aW i ) i i4 H >i ^r ^ aiiiitfftg" nJ \^^ rl^, Bucking Ice. (2^ Soutli Greenland Boy (with ptarmigans) and birl (3.) Tlie Captain in tiie "Crow's Nest,' or Barrel with Trap-door Bottom v^°t^\-'^'' ^ k''^'''^^'''J}llP'^■■ ^'^■^ The Ship's Pet. (5.) Little Orphan Boj of Etah Eskimo. (6.) An Etah Eskimo. (1 ) The Ship and Her Image ou a Quiet Day in Melville Bay. in Baffin's Bay. (3.) _Baffin's Bay Iceberg. (+,) Iceberg. (5.) "e.) Eskimo Summer Encampment of Sealskin Tents or '• Tu-picks." (2.) Iceberg seen Blasting tiie Ice. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 193 The winter was one of great severity, tlie thermometer sink- ing to 60° below zero. In the ensning spring of 1831, a number of exploring trips were undertaken, and in one of them the younger Koss . DISCOVERED THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE. He says: "The place of the observatory was as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89° 59', being thus within one minute of the vertical ; while the proximity, at least, of this pole, if not its actual existence where we stood, was further confirmed by the action, or rather by the total inaction, of the several liorizontal needles then in m,y possession. "As soon," he continues, "as I had satisfied my own mind on the subject, I made known to the party this gratifying re- sult of all our joint labors; and it was then that, amidst mu- tual congratulations, we fixed the BRITISH FLAG ON THE SPOT, and took possession of the North Magnetic Pole and its ad- joining territory in the name of Great Britain and King Wil- liam IV. We had abundance of materials for building in the fragments of limestone that covered the beach, and we there- fore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under which we buried a canister containing a record of the interesting fact, only regretting we had not the means of constructing a ])yramid of more importance, and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of time and of the Esquimaux. Had it been a pja'amid as large as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that it would have done more than satisfy our ambition under the feelings of that exciting day." Thus, on the 1st of June, 1831, in latitude 70° 5' 17", and longitude 96° 46' 45" west, did the British establish a rightful claim to a great" and important discovery, and what American, reading the accounts and perceiving the enthusiasm of our 194 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; cousins on the other side of the Atlantic in all snch enter- prises, can restrain wishing for the STARS AND STRIPES still greater triumphs? On this journey Ross was absent twenty-eight days. Once more, on August 28th, the "Victory" stood clear of ice but was unable to make good more than four miles of navi- gation when, on September 27th, she was completely beset. Thus, in two years, she had progressed but seven miles. A third winter was accordingly spent in the same locality, and when spring arrived, it was decided to abandon the "Vic- tory" and, obtaining supplies and boats on Fury Beach, to make for the waters of Baffin's Bay in the expectancy of there meeting with some whaling-vessel. On the 23d of April, 1832, the party therefore started for the Beach. Heav^- laden and encountering much snow and drift, they were compelled to make long circuits, so that to gain thirty miles in a straight line they were compelled to travel three hundred twenty-nine. The "Victory" was not formally abandoned, however, till May 29th, on which date, with colors flying from her mast- head, Captain Koss took leave of her, he being the last to depart. Me says: "It was the first vessel that I had ever been obliged to abandon, after having served in thirty-six, during a period of forty-two years. It was like the last parting with an old friend, and I did not pass the point where she ceased to be visible without stopping to take a sketch of this mel- ancholy desert, rendered more melancholy by the solitary, abandoued, helpless home of our past years, fixed in immov- able ice till time should perform on her his usual work." On July 1st the entire party reached Fury Beach, and, erecting a large tent, styled it "Somerset House." A month later they had crossed Prince Regent's Inlet and arrived at the entrance to Lancaster Sound, which they found so blocked with ice that they were compelled to return to "Somerset House." This they reached on October 9th, and here spent a fourth winter. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 195 The tent was rendered more comfortable by means of an embankment of snow and an additional stove. Although there was a reduction of the regular allowance of preserved meats, there was plenty of flour, sugar, soups, and vegetables. During the winter Mr. Thomas, the carpenter, and two others died. On the 8th of Jul}^ following, the party again took their departure from "Somerset House," and, forty-six days later, arrived in Baffin's Bay, at Nav}^ Board Inlet. Here a joyful surprise awaited them. At 4 o'clock on the morning of August 20th, a vessel hove in sight. Quickly the exhausted men roused themselves and sprang to their oars as men escaping from great peril. Alas! like a phantom the ship suddenl}^ disap- peared in the haze and they were fast sinking into despair when another vessel was espied lying in a calm. With hearts beating between hope and fear, and their gaze steadfastly fixed upon the stately form, they kept up a hurried and ener- getic stroke of the oar until — with joy unbounded — they had reached the whaler "Isabella," of Hull, the very ship in which Ross, fifteen 3^ears before, had made his first polar voyage. With difficulty were those on board the whaler persuaded that it was indeed Ross and his English companions who sought admission on the ship; for, had they not been mourned as dead these two years by their friends in England? When, however, the honest whalers were convinced of the truthfulness of their story, the rigging was quickly manned in their honor, and with three rousing cheers Captain Ross and party were welcomed on board the "Isabella." What followed is vividly described by Ross himself: "Though we had not been supported by our names and characters we should not the less have claimed from charity the attention that we re- ceived; for never were seen a more MISERABLE SET OF WRETCHES. Unshaven, since I know not when, dirty, dressed in the rags of wild beasts, and starved to the very bones, our gaunt and 196 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; grim looks, when contrasted with those of the well-dressed and well-fed men around us, made us all feel — I believe for the first time — what we really were, as well as what we seemed to others. But the ludicrous soon took the place of all other feelings; in such a crowd and such confusion all serious thought was impossible, while the new buovanc}^ of our spir- its made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene which now opened. Every man was hungry, and was to be fed; all were ragged, and were to be clothed; there was not one to whom washing was not indispensable, nor one whom his beard did not deprive of all human semblance. All — everything, too, was to be done at once; it was washing, dress- ing, shaving, eating, all intermingled. It was all the materials of each jumbled together, while in the midst of all there were interminable questions to be asked and answered on both sides; the adventures of the ''Victory," our own escapes, the politics of England, and the news, which was now four years old. But all subsided into peace at last. The sick were accommodated, the seamen disposed of, and all was done for us which care and kindness could perform. Night at length brought quiet and serious thought, and I trust there was not a man among us who did not then express, where it was due, his gratitude for that iuter])osition which had raised us all from a despair which none could now forget, and had brought us from the borders of a most distant grave to life, and friends, and civilization. Long accustomed, however, to a cold bed on the hard snow, or the bare rocks, few could sleep amid the comforts of our new accommodations. I was myself com- pelled to leave the bed which had been kindly assigned me, and take my abode in a chair for the night; nor did it fare much better witli the rest. It was for time to reconcile us to this sudden change, to break through what had become habit, and to inure us once more to the usages of our former da^^s." By the middle of October the entire party were in England, where Ross received the freedom of her leading cities and was knighted by the king, and received a grant of |25,000 OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 197 from Parliament. In 1851 be became Kear AdmiraL His deatb occurred five years later. His nepbew, James C. Koss, was promoted to a captaincy, and from 1839 to 1843 conducted tbe famous Antarctic expedi- tion, in tbe course of w^bicb be approacbed to witbin 160 miles of tbe Soutb Magnetic Pole, computed to be in soutb latitude G6°, and east longitude 146°. He, too, was made a knigbt. SHOOTING THE FIRST MUSK-OX. WEST COAST OF GREENLAND. 198 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER XIV. EXPEDITIONS OF CAPTAIN BACK AND MESSRS. DEASE^ AND SIMPSON. After Ross had been absent for two years, with no intel- ligence of his whereabouts, Dr. Richardson first directed public attention towards his probable fate and volunteered to go to his relief. The government was solicited to lend a helping hand, but being slow to act, A POPULAR SUBSCRIPTION was started, and .^20,000 raised, to which the government added |10,000. Captain Back, the veteran of two overland journeys to the north coast of North America in company with Franklin and Richardson, volunteered his services, and was placed in command. Accompanied by Dr. Richard King as naturalist, and three men who had been with Franklin in 1825, Back arrived in New York in the latter part of March, 1833. Proceeding to Montreal, he then journeyed to Fort Chip- ewyan, on the west end of Lake Athabasca, where he arrived July 20th. During this part of the journey'' the part}^ were dreadfully tormented by sand-flies, mosquitoes, and horse-flies, so that their faces streamed with blood, the ensuing pain and irritation producing giddiness and causing them to moan with pain and agony. Leaving Fort Chipewyan, a journey of nineteen days brought them to Fort Resoluti(m, on Great Slave Lake. In the course of this long march Back w^as joined by a MOTLEY CROWD consisting of "an Englishman, a man from Stornoway, two Canadians, two Metifs, or half-breeds, and three Iroquois In- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 199 dians. Babel could uot have produced a worse confusion of inharmonious sounds than was the conversation they kept up." The Stornow^ay man was A. R. MacLeod, and was ac- companied by his wife, three children and a servant. He was a member of the great MacLeod family, Isle of Lewis, and who, along with the MacAulays, have long dwelt side by side in the fishing hamlets of Islivig and Braenish, in which latter place was born the great-grandfather of the eminent historian, Macaula}. Some years since, it was the writer's good fortune to visit this locality, as well as the ancient and historic Stornoway, in which, while visiting the school, was learned that here was born the afterwards-celebrated Sir Alexander Mackenzie, whose services we have already mentioned in these pages. Leaving MacLeod and all but four men, Captain Back pro- ceeded in a northeasterly direction from Fort Resolution in search of the Thlew-ee-Choh, or Great Fish, now called Back River. Forests, swamps, portages, streams, lakelets, rapids and cascades impeded their progress until, on August 2Tth, from a hilltop, Back saw the wide expanse of water now^ known as Lake Aylmer. Two days later three of Back's men reached this lake by means of a canoe, while Back searched for and found Sand Hill, or Sussex Lake, the source of the great river toward which he was traveling. Returning to Great Slave Lake, its northeastern extremity was reached by the middle of September. Here MacLeod and party had erected a comfortable house, fifty by thirty feet in dimensions, containing four rooms, a central hall where were received their Indian visitors, and a more rudely constructed kitchen. FORT RELIANCE was the name given to the encampment. Meanwhile, Dr. King arrived with a large supply of provisions. The winter was a severe one, the thermometer sinking to seventy degrees below zero. Food became scarce, but the faithful Chief A-kai-tcho and his hardy hunters managed to 200 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; secure considerable game, which was generously shared with the strangers. ''The great chief/' said Akaitcho, "trusts in us, and it is better that ten Indians should perish than that one white man should perish through our negligence and breach of faith." On February 14, 1834, MacLeod moved his family nearer the hunting-grounds, where six of the natives near him died of starvation, his own family barely escaping the same fate. April 25th a messenger arrived at Fort lleliance announc- ing the safe arrival of Captain Koss and party in England. Says Back: "In the fulness of our hearts we assembled to- gether and humbly OFFERED UP OUR THANKS to that merciful Providence, who, in the beautiful language of Scripture hath said: 'Mine own will I bring again, as I did some time from the deeps of the sea.' The thoughts of so wonderful a preservation overpowered for a time the common occurrences of life. We had just sat down to breakfast, but our appetites were gone, and the da}^ was passed in a feverish state of excitement." Captain Back now directed his energies toward the explo- ration of the Great Fish Kiver. He sent in advance Mr. Mac- Leod and faniih^ for the purpose of hunting and depositing the game secured. On June Ttli he, too, set out with Dr. King and five men and soon came upon the boat-builders, whom he had also despatched in advance. Taking the best of the boats he had it fitted with runners, as Parry had done in 1827. On the 14th, with six dogs drawing the boat-sledge, he took a fresh start and came upon a cache of deer and musk-ox flesh. On the 2.3tli a second store was met with, eleven animals having been left in the two depots. That there might be no partiality shown in the matter oi food. Back ordered that the rations of himself and officers should contain an equal share of the objectionable musk-ox flesh. On the 2Tth MacLeod was overtaken, and on the next day OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 201 the boat was launched upon the great river, MacLeod and thirteen men having been sent bacl^: to Fort Resolution to take charge of supplies to be forwarded from the Hudson Bay Company's stations, to establish a fishery, to erect a suitable building for winter quarters, and then to return to the Great Fish River by the middle of September to render assistance to his own party upon its return to that point. On July 8th, with ten companions, and 3,360 pounds of provisions. Back started on his voyage down the river. The first hundred miles were a series of rapids and cascades. On the 28th, a LARGE TRIBE OF ESKIMOS was met with and greatly assisted them in making the last long portage. Arriving at the mouth of the river, Back descried a headland, to which he gave the name Victoria. Thus the party had descended a tortuous stream for 530 miles, including five large lakes, eighty-three falls, rapids, and cascades, and now stood overlooking a wide expanse of the Polar Sea, in latitude 07° 11' north, but thirty-seven miles farther south than the mouth of the Coppermine River. Back reached, as the terminus of his voyage, latitude 68° 13' 57", and gave to the name of a headland seen on the north- west shore of the estuar^^, in latitude 68° 4()', Cape Richardson. Returning, the party arrived at the source of the river on September 16th, where they met MacLeod, with the much- needed supplies. On the 27th all reached Fort Reliance, where Back and six of the party passed the winter, MacLeod and all others maintaining themselves at the fishing-station. On March 21, 1835, Captain Back set out upon his return to England, by way of Canada and New York, arriving in Liver- pool September 8th, after an absence of nearly two years and seven months. A month later Dr. King and others arrived by way of the Hudson's Bay route. For his services Captain Back was awarded a gold medal and a post captaincy in the navy. Nine months after his return from this journey, at the 202 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; siiggestiou of the (Jeographical Society, be was again sent out IN THE "TERROR," in which he was to proceed to Repulse Bay, or the Wager liiver, and thence to malie an overland journey to the bottom of Prince Regent's Inlet and to send other parties to Fury and Hecla Strait, and, if possible, to Franklin's Point Turn- again. Arriving at Salisbury Island, in the northern part of Hud- son's Bay, on the 14th of August 1836, the vessel was soon frozen in. From December to March, inclusive, the "Terror" drifted about in a crazy and helpless manner. On Jul}^ 10, 1837, the ice put her on her beam ends, in which manner she rested until on the 14th she suddenly righted herself. The vessel had been so greatly disabled that Captain Back returned at once to England. The "Terror," however, was destined to be heard of in connection with an- other polar voyage. Sent by the Hudson's Bay Company to complete the survey of the north coast, left untouched by Franklin, Beechey and Back in their several journe3^s and voyages, MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON, in July, 1837, descended the Mackenzie River, and, by August 4th, Simpson had proceeded from Franklin's Return Reef 146 miles westward to a point just beyond Point Barrow, whence Elson had returned to the "Blossom" in 1826, On this journey Simpson DISCOVERED THE GARRY AND COLVILLE RIVERS. Returning to the Great Bear Lake, the winter was spent at Fort Confidence, and, on June 6, 1838, the ascent of the Dease River, which empties into the Great Bear Lake from the north, was begun. The Coppermine was then descended to its em- bouchure into Coronation Gulf, which was reached on the 1st of July. Here, on one of the Barry Islands, some very pure specimens of copper were found. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 203 i Just before entering the gulf, Escape llapids were run, and that occurrence is tlius described by Simpson: "A glance at the overhanging clift' told us that there was no alternative but to run down with a full cargo. In an instant we were IN THE VORTEX; and before we were aware my boat was borne toward an iso- lated rock, which the boiling surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was no longer possible; our only chance of safety was to run between it and the lofty eastern cliff. The word was passed, and everj^ breath was hushed. A stream which dashed down upon us over the brow of the precipice more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with the spray that whirled upward from the rapid, forming a terrific shower- bath. The pass was about eight feet wide, and the error of a single foot on either side would have been instant destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's consummate skill, the boat shot safely through those jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our next impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com- rades behind. They had profited by the peril we incurred and kept without the treacherous rock in time." July 29th the party reached Cape Barrow, thence pushing northeastward, Cape Flinders, in latitude 68° 15', longitude 109° 15' west, on Kent Peninsula, was attained on August 9th. Here, three miles from Franklin's Point Turnagain, they re- mained till, on the 20th, Simpson, with seven men and pro- visions for ten days, set out on a foot journey. Traveling eastward, on the 23d Simpson ascended a height from which he viewed a wave-worn sea, and beyond it a vast extent of territory upon which he bestowed the name of the young queen-sovereign of England, Victoria. Its eastern ex- tremity was called Cape Pelly, in honor of the governor of the Hudson's Bay Territory. Having surveyed one hundred forty miles of coast line eastward of Point Turnagain, Simpson returned to Fort Con- fidence, where the party arrived on September 14th. Here tli (1.) Reindeer Does antl Faw ns Migratiug. (2.) Tlirowins tlie Di-zha. or Lasso. (3.) Lassoed. (4.) "Bunched, ' or iu Line. (5.) Team at Rest. (6.) Stainpeded. (See Chapters VIL, XII. and XV.) \ H, (i.) (].) A Halt. (2.) Siberian Women Harnessins Up. Driving Geese. (5.) Shooting tlie Swan. (.6 > Wr>mc JC4 ^t,. (3.) Swan and Nest. Women Storing Brent Geese. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 225 service as one of Parry's lieutenants on board the "Fury" diir- ino- tlie memorable third vovaoe of 1824-5. In addition to this squadron sent out by the admiraltj', PRIVATE ENTERPRISE AND PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION enabled other vessels to assist in the great work. Such were the schooner "Felix," 120 tons, Captain Sir John Koss, who, notwithstanding his advanced years, was eager to engage in the search, the expense of which was borne by the Hudson's Bay Company by a contribution of |2,500, and public dona- tions; the "Prince Albert," a clipper of ninety tons. Captain Forsj^th, a young man recentlj^ returned from Africa, who had previously volunteered his services on all of the other expedi- tions, and now went, WITHOUT FEE OR REWARD, in command of an expedition sent out by Lady Franklin and individual subscribers; and, finally, the "Advance" and the "Rescue," Lieutenant De Haven commanding and Dr. Kane medical officer, comprising the American, or First Grinnell Ex- pedition. As previously stated, all these vessels arrived at the en- trance to Lancaster Sound in July, 1850, where they separated, prosecuting tlie search on both sides of the sound. On the 23d of August, the "Assistance," Captain Ommaney, arrived at the entrance to Wellington Channel. Here, upon Cape Riley, Captain Ommaney discovered the FIRST INFORMATION CONCERNING FRANKLIN, and Yerj meager at that; "he found traces of encampments, and collected the remains of materials, which evidently proved that some party belonging to Her Majesty's ships had been detained on that spot. Beechey's Island was also examined, where traces were found of the same party." These "traces" consisted of a rope with the naval mark, evidently belonging to a vessel fitted out at Woolwich, doubt- less either the "Erebus" or the "Terror." Captain Ommaney left a depot of provisions at Cape Biley and then searched the 226 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; north shores of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, without finding any furtlier information. Two days later the "Prince Albert'' also visited Cape Kiley. Says Captain Forsyth: "We observed five places where tents had been pitcluHl, or stones placed as if they had been used for keeping the lower part of the tent down; also great quanti- ties of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a piece of rope, with the Woolwich naval mark on it (yellow), i)art of which I have enclosed." About this time the "Lady Franklin," Captain Penny, suc- ceeded in pushing her w^ay up Wellington Channel as far as CORNWALLIS ISLAND, when, although an impenetrable ice-barrier was met, to the great chagrin of Captain Penu}', open water could be seen be- yond as far as the eye could reach. The season being now far advanced, preparations for W^INTER-QUARTERS were made at once. The "Lady Franklin" established herself at the south extremity of Cornwallis Land, where she was joined by the "Felix," under Sir John lioss, while the "Reso- lute" and the "Assistance," Captain Austin and Lieutenant Ouimaney, fastened themselves to the ice-pack. The "Prince Albert," having accomplislied its mission, hastened to Eng- land, after an absence of but four months, without any loss whatever, and conveyed the first intelligence concerning the lost expedition, thus accomplishing one of the most remark- able Arctic vo,yages on record. The American vessels, the "Advance" and the "Rescue," were compelled to return to the United States in a manner which will be narrated later, more in detail. From the vessels that succeeded in establisliing themselves in winter-quarters excursions in every direction were under- taken, there being fifteen sledges and one hundred five men thus employed, while but seventy-five men remained in charge of the ships. "No signs" were invariably the discouraging words uttered as each party returned from a long journey. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 227 CHAPTEII XXn. KENNEDY'S SEARCH VOYAGE. The tidings and relics found on Beechey Island and taken to England b}- the "'Prince Albert" served to quicken public interest in the great search and the same staunch little vessel was immediately strengthened by extra planking placed upon her sides from the keel to two feet above the waterdine, while her bows and stern j)osts were sheathed in wrought-iron, and the hold made into a labyrinth of cross-beams, thus rendering her as strong as possible. She was provisioned for two years and placed under the command of CAPT. WILLIAM KENNEDY. who was ordered to continue the search by way of Prince Regent's Inlet, "and the passages connecting it with the west- ern sea," as it was supposed that by this route Franklin would, after having abandoned his vessels in the western sea, en- deavor to regain Lancaster vSound and Baffin's Bay. Second in command to this expedition was Lieutenant Bellot, who, as a volunteer, showed great courage and genuine devotion. The crew numbered sixteen men. On the 22d of May, 1851, the "Prince Albert" again set sail. Lady Franklin was then on board, and as she left the ship after bidding the gallant crew all that her devoted heart could wish and express, was enthusiastically cheered as she again turned to her weary watching. By the 8th of July Captain Kennedy had pushed his vessel three-fourths the way up Baffin's Bay, nearly opposite the Dan- ish village of U-PER-NA-VIK, on the west coast of Greenland, and the northernmost perma- nent civilized setttlement on the face of the globe. At this 228 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; village six large Eskimo dogs were taken on board and the ship's already full supply of boats was supplemented by a number of sealskin boats. On the 13th the "Prince Albert" met the American vessels, the "Advance" and the "Rescue," just escaped from an eight months' perilous drift in the ice-pack. . Not until August 20th did Captain Kennedy succeed in reaching Pond's Inlet, at the entrance to Lancaster Sound. Here a party of Eskimos visited the expedition and so rare was the atmosphere that the voices of the natives could be clearly heard at the distance of eight miles as they approached the vessel. Arriving at the entrance to Barrow's Strait on September 3d, the farther progress of the "Prince Albert" was terminated by an impassable barrier of ice which an easterly gale had thrown athwart his course. Kefuge was then found in Port Bowen, where, it will be recalled. Parry had sought shelter in 1824-5. Here were picked up nails, pieces of canvas, and broken pipes, while the cairns and stone fireplace were still standing. The lonely grave of John Cottrell, the seaman from the "Fury" who, at the age of thirty-nine, was buried in July, 1825, was also revisited. On the 9th of September Captain Kennedy succeeded in crossing the inlet to within a few miles of Port Leopold. With a gutta-percha boat and four seamen, he finally ef- fected a landing, and, after spending an hour in endeavoring to reconnoitre the north coast and to ascertain whether or not documents had been left by any of the other searching parties, attempted to return to the vessel. But this was impossible. The ice liad changed its position and was now a TOSSING, GRINDING, ROARING MASS of danger. Night was on, and the unfortunate men were com- pelled to draw up their boat on the beach and shelter them- selves beneath it. The cold was intense, and Captain Ken- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 229 nedy was compelled to restrain his men from taking more than intermittent naps during the entire night. At length morning dawned, but not a vestige of their vessel was in sight; they were now in danger and perhaps doomed. Winter was upon them — and the hope for rescue in the follow- ing spring was their great comfort. Most fortunately Sir James C. Ross had built a house, left stores, and a launch upon Whaler Point in 1849. To these the unhappy men at once re- paired and found them in excellent condition. A dwelling- place was soon provided in the launch, and heated by means of a stove and fuel which were among the supplies found. Pemmican, biscuit and chocolate were their food. A week passed, when, on the 17th, they were JOYFULLY SURPRISED by the appearance of the intrepid Bellot, who, with seven men, had succeeded in dragging the jolly-boat over the ice from the ship, after having made two previous ineffectual attempts to do so. Returning to the ship, the winter wore away, when, on February 25th, Kennedy and Bellot, with six men and four sledges, drawn by dogs and men, began the spring work of search and exploration. Traveling the east coast of North Somerset, the party arrived at Fury Beach on the 5th of March. Here the preserved soups and vegetables deposited by Sir John Ross thirty years previous were found in perfect condition. The flour had become caked into soft lumps, but upon being reground and passed through a sieve made excellent biscuit. At its southern extremity they crossed Victoria Strait and thoroughly EXPLORED PRINCE OF WALES LAND, thence recrossing to North Somerset, followed its north coast back to the starting point. Thus terminated one of the most remarkable sledge journeys on record, during which, in ninety- seven days, eleven hundred miles were traveled Avithout ill- ness or accident. Finally released from a ten months' imprisonment in the ice, the "Prince Albert" crossed Barrow's Strait to Cape Riley, 230 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; where was met the "North Star," under command of Captain Piillen, who had returned from his trip to Bering's Strait and had been despatched with the "North Star" as a depot-ship to the squadron of Sir Edward Belcher. It was now determined that the "Prince Albert" should return to England, and, although both Kennedy and Bellot eagerly endeavored to join Sir Edward's squadron and to allow the "Prince Albert" to return to England in charge of others, it was finally decided otherwise and accordingly Ladj Frank- lin's vessel again directed her course homeward, arriving at Aberdeen, October 7th, 1852, after an absence of fifteen months without the loss of a man. natfy^e needle-case. Presented to C. F. Hall when on Kine William Land, 1869. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 231 CHArTER XXIII. VOYAGE OF M'CLURE AND COLLINSON: DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE. Leaving for a time the vessels conducting the search b}' way of Lancaster Sound, we return to consider what, mean- while, was being done b3' way of Bering's Strait — efforts lead- ing to the discovery of the northwest passage, and giving rise to one of the most pleasing as well as most thrilling narratives in Arctic research. Immediatel}' upon the return of the ''Enterprise" and the "Investigator," under Sir James C. Ross, in 1849, they were again fitted out and set sail from England on the 20tli of Jan- uary, 1850, Captain R. Collinson, commanding officer, with R. L. McClure in charge of the "Investigator." Each vessel carried a complement of sixty-six men, among them being Rev. Mr. Miertsching, an enthusiastic German Moravian who had for several years been a missionary among the Eskimos of Labrador. He accompanied Commander McClure's ship as interpreter. The crews were mostly made up of volunteers who had already seen Arctic service, McClure having been a trusted lieutenant under Ross in 1818-9. Having set sail, the vessels became separated and did not again meet until, having rounded Cape Horn, they again came together three months later in the Mid-Pacific. Once more they parted compan}^ — never again to meet. Each, however, called in turn at the Sandwich Islands and laid in stores, fruits, and vegetables, the "Enterprise," under Captain Collinson, preceding the "Investigator" on the way to Bering's Strait by about a week. When, now, the "Investigator" arrived at Honolulu, Sand- wich Islands, a rumor was there current to the effect that, 232 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; should the "Enterprise" arrive earlier at Kotzebiie Sound, just beyond the strait, as by reason of her superi(U' speed was prob- able, Captain Collinson would then proceed with the "Plover," still at anchor in the sound, and order the "Investigator" to remain there in her stead. This served to raise the ardor of every man on board the "Investigator" to the highest degree, and remembering that the race is not alwajs to the swift, McClure again set sail on the FOURTH OF JULY, taking advantage of every breeze till, twenty-five days later, he arrived, without accident, in Kotzebue Sound. The "Plover" had seen nothing of the "Enterprise" and accordingly the "Investigator" again set sail within forty-eight hours and was soon out of sight on the rough surface of the stormy strait. On August 2d, latitude 72°, the first heavy ice was met, and upon it, basking in the ceaseless sunshine, were immense herds of walruses, embracing HUGE BULLS with long and frightful tusks, and females, and "baby" wal- ruses, with their meek and innocent countenances. Some of these creatures weighed, it was estimated, as much as 3,500 pounds — more than a ton and a half! The ice, when relieved of this great weight, rose two feet higher. A gun having been loaded with grape and canister for the purpose of firing upon a herd of these creatures, McClure's heart was so touched at the mutual affection displayed among themselves, especially between mothers and babes, that he countermanded the order. It was noticed that sometimes a female, or "cow," suckled two "calves," although but one is the usual number of her offspring at a time, and which, it is said, is dependent upon her breast for the first twelve or eighteen months of its existence. When mature, these animals feed upon submarine plants OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 233 and clams, great quantities of the latter being found in the stomach of the walrus, and without any of the shell. The "Investigator" was able to make rapid progress along the American coast, and soon passed Point Barrow, and b}^ the morning of August 6th, 1850, no further anxiety was felt on board as to the possibility of entering the Arctic Ocean by way of Bering's Strait. The aspiration of all was now to push on to Melville Island. However, as a great body of ice appeared in that direction, McClure decided to follow the lane of water between the shore and the sea-ice and attain if possible the "open sea" of Dr. Richardson, at the mouth of the Mackenzie Kiver. Two days later, when about one hundred twenty miles east of Point Barrow, a man was sent ashore to leave dis- patches and erect a cairn. Here Eskimos were met, and after the customary form of salutation, namely, that of rubbing noses, had been performed, friendly intercourse was estab- lished. At first sight of the approaching ship the Eskimos were greatl,y astonished to see three great trees — the masts — moving about. They informed Captain McClure that an open channel of water from three to five miles wide would exist all along the shore from that time till winter, but could not tell when the winter would begin. Here the coast was one vast plain, having a soil of dark- blue clay, not a stone being visible, and the entire extent cov- ered with AN IMMENSE GREEN MAT of grasses and mosses variegated with a large number of bril- liantly colored flowers. Large herds of reindeer and numerous flocks of wild fowl, such as the common and king eider ducks, enlivened the peaceful scene. Great quantities of driftwood lay strewn along the beach, while just beyond it all, upon the bosom of the cheerless Arctic, rested the impenetrable edge of an unmeasured ice-continent from thirty to forty feet in thickness. And how great^ therefore, must have been the astonishment of the simple yet affectionate natives as they beheld the "great white handkerchiefs,^' as they called the sails. 234 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; waving to them from the ''moving trees" and urging the vessel onward from a region which had always been to them one of terror and mystery. On the 14th of August the "Investigator" found herself in longitude 148° 11' west, which was past the point of Franklin's farthest west in 1826. Although greatly delayed by reason of numerous shoals, at one time being aground five hours, she succeeded in arriving off the mouth of the Mackenzie, fifty miles from the mainland. Here, on the 22d, Captain Pullen, upon his return from a jour- ney along the coast east of the mouth of the Mackenzie, passed within a few miles of the "Investigator" without either party being aware of each other's preseneei On the 24th, near Cape Warren, a party of HOSTILE ESKIMOS were met with, but w^ere soon brought to friendly terms upon perceiving that no harm was to be done them. When asked why they did not trade with the whites along the great river — the Mackenzie — they replied that it was because the white men had given to the Indians "colored water that rendered them savage and took away their reason and that they desired none of it among themselves." The big-hearted McClure warmed with sympath}^ for this hardy people, and he thus writes, says the equally compassion- ate and equally gallant Lieutenant Sherard Osborn: "Would that some practically Christian bod}^, such as the Moravian missionaries, could send a few of their brethren amongst the tribes of Esquimaux who wander along the Polar Sea, to carry to them the arts and advantages of civilized life, and trust to God, in his own good time, showing the way of eternal life! "Such men as Mr. Miertsching would in a few years perfect- ly revolutionize this docile and intelligent race." Suspended from the ear of the chief of the tribe at Port Warren was a brass button of European manufacture, and which, the Eskimos related, had belonged to a white man who OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 235 came aiiioug tliem from the westward in company with others of his own race. They also said that the white men had no boat; that they built a house and then departed inland; that the owner of the button had been killed by a native, who, seeing the great ship, fled; and that the murdered man had been buried by the chief and his son. Unfortunately, how- ever, they could give no idea of how long since all this occurred. McClure's men visited the house referred to, but found that it was a very old one and that its tenants had vacated it years before. A thick fog warned the part}^ to return to the ship and the grave was not seen. Toward the close of August another tribe of natives was met near Cape Bathurst, and in return for presents McClure succeeded in getting these friendly people to agree to carry messages to the Hudson's Bay Company. The women became so greatly excited at the unexpected distribution of presents that they became unmanageable and, rushing upon the stores, carried off whatever the}^ could without the least compunction. Still working her way eastward, the "Investigator" was employed between the 1st and 5th of September in passing Franklin Bay, an arm of the sea just opposite Baring's Land, and embraced between Capes Bathurst and Parrv. On the day previous to arriving at Cape Parry LARGE FIRES ON SHORE were observed and, moving to and fro between these and the vessel, were figures in white. "Franklin! Franklin! Franklin at last!" was the thrilling thought that ran through the ex- cited minds of the searchers as they hastened toward the shore. But it was not Franklin, nor the encampment of an}^ of the long-lost men, that was seen — only a few volcanic mounds of burning sulphur and a contiguous spring to which the rein- deer of the region — "the moving figures in white" — resorted for drink. Leaving the mainland, the "Investigator" proceeded north- ward to a newly-discovered territory which McClure, in ignor- 236 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ance of its being connected with the already-discovered Banli's Land, named in honor of the Lord of tlie Admiralty, Baring's Land. Farther east. Prince Albert's Land was reached, and its in- terior fonnd to exhibit ranges of mountains covered with snow. The southern flight of gnlls and other birds indicated the near approach of winter. Entering the narrow channel of water separating Bank's, or Baring's, Land on the west from Prince Albert's Land on the east, the 9th of September found the ship but sixty miles from Barrow's Strait. This water-avenue was called Prince of Wales Strait. Says McClure: "I cannot describe my anxious feelings. Can it be possible that this water communicates with Barrow's Strait, and shall prove to be the long-sought Northwest Passage? Can it be that so humble a creature as I will be permitted to perform what has bafiled the talented and wise for hundreds of years? But all praise be ascribed to Him who has conducted us so far on our way in safety. His ways are not our ways, nor are the means that He uses to accomplish His ends within our com- prehension. The wisdom of the world is foolishness with Him." Winter was now upon the struggling vessel and she was soon beset. A south wind on the 16th caused her to drift northward until within thirt}^ miles of Melville Bay, which, with Barrow's Strait, Lancaster Sound, and Baffin's Bay connects with the Atlantic Ocean. Here, in the pack-ice, McClure decided to winter. The "Investigator" was housed over, the south, or sunny side, being left open as long as possible. The dreary months were spent in exploring the adjacent coast and in hunting the game which was almost incredibly abundant. Reindeer were seen in herds of from sixty to ninety each, while one valley was white with ptarmigans and hares. A polar bear measuring ten feet in length and whose foot-prints were twelve inches in diameter, was killed. On one occasion a young carpenter, Whitfield by name, be- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 237 came separated fi-om his compaiiious while hunting. He had strayed from them against their wishes and was unable to re- join them. Long and anxiously his comrades looked and called for him; but all in vain. A dense snow-storm suddenly prevailed and the searchers sought safety in their tent. I^resently a noise as of a polar bear was heard. Poor Whit- field's fate! thought the men; whereupon one of them looked between the tent-flaps and beheld, not a yard away, a strange figure erect and rigid in the snow. It was indeed the unfor- tunate young man. There he was, upon his knees, his hands raised above his head in the attitude of prayer — stiff, speech- less, motionless, yet not dead. Quickly his companions began the work of resuscitation, and his life was happily saved. He had heard his associates calling to him, and, following in the direction of the signals, benumbed and unable to an- swer, succeeded in almost reaching the tent when his strength utterly failed and he fell into the i)osition described. During the winter the ship was visited by a raven, which, however, disappeared with the return of sunlight and was greatly missed by the men. On the 18th of April, 1851, three exploring parties left the ship, traveling in as many different directions, namely, south- east, northeast, and northwest. These traversed altogether eight hundred miles of territory and erected cairns and de- posited information for any wanderers, wherever desirable. The party that traveled in a southeasterly course, under McClure himself, Mr. Miertsching accompanying, met a party of very friendly Eskimos who accurately traced for them the coast-line of Wollaston and Victoria lands. It was then proved that those regions are not connected with the main- land of America. The month of May was mainly spent in getting the vessel and stores in readiness for the summer's voyage. The health of the men was good and not a sign of scurvy was detected — "a record unparalleled in the history of Arctic voyages." 16 238 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Go Ma}^ 21st Coinmandei- McClure shot a bear, the stomach of which contained A CURIOUS MEDLEY of raisins, pieces of tobacco-leaf, bits of fat pork, and frag- ments of sticking-plaster. Profound was the mystery and profounder still were the theories advanced to account for these evidences of civilization thus found in the digestive organs of a wandering bear. Among the explanations offered were two to the effect that the hungry creature must either have raided the larder of the "Enterprise," possibly not far distant at that very time, or else come upon some of the provisions left or thrown overboard by the "Investigator" in the course of the previous autumn. A tin can containing portions of these articles and lying in the midst of many bear's tracks was shortl}^ afterwards found in the vicinity of the ship and put to rest further investi- gation. On May 27th the first gull was seen, and that was held as a sign of a break in the ice. Not until August 16th was the "Investigator" able to leave the strait — and then only by directing her bow southward. Eounding Nelson's Head, at the southern extremity of Bank's Land, she then passed up the west side and round the north- west corner of the island, where her farther progress was stopped for the time-being, on the 20th of August. Here, feeding quietl}^ upon the shore, could be seen droves of musk-oxen and reindeer. The "Investigator" slowly drifted eastward with the floe- ice, glaciers and icebergs being noticeably absent in the lo- cality — a characteristic feature of all regions so far discovered west of the 85th meridian. When on shore on the 27th, Lieutenant McClure ob- served a group of hills about three hundred feet high and cov- ered from base to summit with an abundance of wood and LAYERS OP TREES, some of them protruding from twelve to fourteen feet above OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 239 the surface, and no firm that they eoiikl not be broken by sev- eral men jumping upon them. The largest of these measured one foot seven inches in diameter. On September 5th a similar deposit of wood was observed on the north side of a ravine for a depth of forty feet from the surface. The total depth of the ravine was two hundred feet. The ground around the trees was of sand and shingle. Some of the wood was petrified and some was rotten. Fresh-water lakes were also found and in one of them were salmon from three to twelve inches in length. Many ruins of Eskimo habitations long since abandoned attracted careful attention — but still no traces of the missing Franklin ap- peared. Time passed and little that was new occurred till on the 19th of September two whales were observed, apparently trav- eling westward — possibl}^ journejing from Baffin's Bay to the waters adjacent to Bering's Strait. At length, on the 24th, after a perilous escape from an ice jam, the "Investigator" put safely into a biglit on the north coast, which, in gratitude for their providential care, McClure named the BAY OP GOD'S MERCY. Here the winter of 1851-2 was spent, game, especially reindeer and hares, abounding in marvelous numbers. Two ravens made the rigging of the vessel their home dur- ing the months of darkness, sharing with the dogs the refuse of the messes. WISE BIRDS they were, for, not allowed by the dogs to feed upon the same place with them, they would allure the dogs gradually from the food and when at a long distance would then dart suddenly back to the feeding ground, making way quickly with the choicest morsels, oftentimes leaving the deluded canines noth- ing but chagrin for their pains. When hunting, in February, 1852, Mr. Kennedy, having shot and severely wounded a deer, returned to the ship with- out following up his trophy till after the lapse of several hours. 240 THE SEiARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; He then found the wolves in possession and coukl scarcely drive them away. They had devoured nearly the entire car- cass, but, determined to save at east a portion, he seized a leg, at one end of which a gaunt wolf pulled while he tugged at the other. From the 11th to the 28th of April, Lieutenant McClure was engaged in crossing the sea-ice of the strait, which now bears his name, to Melville Island. Here, in the Winter Har- bor of Parry, he hoped to obtain provisions and information concerning the movements of others of tlie search expeditions. In both of these he was disappointed and returned again to the ship, arriving on the 11th of May. Provisions became scarce about this time, but fortunately two musk-oxen were slain and six hundred forty-seven pounds of meat added to the supply of food. One of the ani- mals killed was a bull, and when wounded made a mad attack upon the hunter, who was eventually compelled to fire his ramrod into the infuriated beast in order to save himself. Again were the brave men of the "Investigator'' compelled to pass another winter — 1852-3 — in the Bay of God's Mercy. Fortunately, game was again abundant, the reindeer gath- ering in the vicinity of 'the ship for protection against the wolves, which continually harassed the defenseless creatures. We now revert to the "Enterprise." Having passed the winter of 1850-1 in China, she made her way during the ensuing summer, as her consort, the "Investigator," had done in 1850, to the south entrance of Prince of Wales Strait. Here, in Walker Bay, on the Prince Albert Land side, she spent the winter of 1851-2, leaving which, in the course of the following summer, she made her wa}^ along the west coast of Baring's and Bank's lands, as the "Investigator" had done during the preceding summer. Before arriving at the northwest corner of the island, how- ever, her way was blocked by the ice, and although so near the Bay of God's Mercy, where her consort was still imprisoned, she was compelled to return to the south side of the island, and thence along the coast of Wollaston Land to Dolphin and ' --WiJlv^ W- -^^JS^ (I.) Siberian Pliaosant. (2.1 Seal Catcliin"- Hnra-c ^s ^ c- r. (4.) (a) Captain H. P. St^pl enson (b) D F I Mo.c^ V^ •, n"" ^''°''^^,® ^"^'^s- Markham. (5.) At Divine Sprvicerfi 'i An P,,;;.: ^^^^s. (c.i Commander A. H. XXXVl.) ^L x^ivine service, (fa.; An Encampment. (See Chapters VII. and «:S3: :':;w ith a fare- well shake of the hand, for the next moment we might go down. Deep despondency^ had taken hold of our scientific friends; the crew were quiet, but desperate. It was a miracle that just that part of the floe on which we stood should, from its soundness, hold together." The house was utterly demolished and obliged them to construct a new one. Thus they continued to drift, the 1st of May, 1870, finding them in latitude 61°, about seven hundred miles south of the point where the "Hansa" was abandoned. A month later, they arrived upon a small island called Il-lu-iddek, upon which they hoped to find the descendants of the Eskimos mentioned as residing there by the old voyager Graah. Their search, however, was in vain. Animal life there was scarce and shy. Finally, open water' becoming more prevalent, they took to the boat and made for Frederichstahl, the nearest Danish port on the southwest coast of Greenland. Here, on the 13th of June, they were welcomed by their brethren, the open-hearted, self-sacrificing German missionaries of the Moravian brotherhood. 316 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; From this point they returned to Germany, arriving there via Copenhagen on the 3d of (September. Meanwhile, the "Germania" pursued a thrilling, yet suc- cessful career. She had searched in vain for the "Hansa," but had met with a whaling vessel, the "Bie-nen-korb," of Bremer- haven, by which letters were dispatched home. "On her deck, confined in a large cage, was a bear and her two cubs; for- tunately for them, on board a whaler they were not likely to Avant for food. One would think that a creature so powerful and active could never be taken alive, but on its hunting ex- peditions among the drift-ice, it frequently trusts itself to the water, and here, in spite of its endurance, man is more active and clever, and with a well-managed boat, a lucky cast of the noose generally falls on the neck of the swimming bear, when, half-dragged and half-swimming, he is hoisted on deck like any other animal, the noose around its neck being a guarantee for its good behavior. On their return they are generally sold to some menagerie or zoological garden, the price of a full- grown bear being 100 thalers (75 American dollars)." Proceeding, the "Germania" w^as headed much of the time against the strong northwest winds. These were varied b}^ winds from the east, which drove the ice together upon the shore. Thus was her progress greatly retarded, and not until August 5th was her gallant crew able to plant the flag of Ger- many upon the East Greenland shore. This w^as upon one of the Pendulum Islands, visited by Clavering and Sabine, in 1823. To the south of her position lay Sabine Island, and far to the north. Shannon Island. Both were ice locked and farther progress could not be made that season. WINTER QUARTERS were therefore established on Sabine Island. Thence research was conducted by sledge during their imprisonment in the ice. The first of these exploring parties left the ship on the 14th of September. The sledge was drawn by Captain Kol- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 317 dewey, Lieutenant Payer, Trauwitz, Krauscliner, Kleutzner, and Ellinger, all of whom together dragged a sledge contain- ing six hundred pounds burden. By them Fligely Fiord and Kuhn Island were carefully explored and surve3^ed. Says Dr. Copeland: 'The shore of the fiord was surrounded by beautiful moun- tain-chains — to the north gneiss — and granite cliffs at the foot of which were slopes covered with soft grassy vegetation ; to the south rose ice-crowned rocks, the highest of which (we will call it Domberg) was certainly more than 3,900 feet high. Kein- deer came from all sides of the strand in a state of wonder; but this time we withstood the desire to hunt, in order to lose no time. Onl}^ once was the journey interrupted by a slight topographical incident. A bear which came near us we frightened away by shooting, after which Kleutzner fell through the ice; he was pulled out, and had to cross a long, broad beach." On Kuhn Island, Lieutenant Payer discovered a very light- colored stone, which, on the south side of the island, formed a solid mass of overhanging crystals at least two hundred feet high. Besides this he found A BED OF COAL alternating with strata of sandstone. Still later, other de- posits of the carboniferous age were met with in large quan- tities, and thus an important factor in the future history of East Greenland was made known. The party traveled alto- gether one hundred thirty-three miles. The only traces of natives found were a few skeletons and rude implements seen on Clavering Island, where, it will be recalled, Clavering had seen Eskimos in 1823. The expedition not being supplied Avith dogs and reindeer, the labor of surveying and investigating the regions was very pevere. Nevertheless, several degrees of the east coast of Greenland were accurately mapped. The journeys made were varied almost constantly by thrill- 21 318 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; iug experiences with the animal life of the North, this being especially' the case with HUGE POLAR BEARS. An incident in which Dr. Borgen nearly lost his life is thus detailed by Lieutenant Payer: "We were sitting, fortunately^ silent, in the cabin, when Koldewe3=' suddenly heard a faint cr}- for help. We all hur- riedly tumbled up the companion-ladder to the deck, when an exclamation from Borgen, 'A bear is carrying me off,' struck painfully on our ears. "It was quite dark; we could scarcely see anything, but we made directly for the quarter w^hence the cry proceeded, armed with poles, weapons, etc., over hummocks and drifts, when an alarm shot which we fired into the air seemed to make some impression, as the bear dropped his prey, and ran forward a few paces. He turned again, however, dragging his victim over the broken shore-ice, close to a field which stretched in a southerl}^ direction. All depended upon our coming up with him before he should reach this field, as he would carry his prey over the open plain with the speed of a horse, and thus escape. We succeeded. The bear turned upon us for a mo- ment, and then, scared by our continuous fire, let fall his prey. "We lifted our poor comrade upon the ice to bear him to his cabin, a task which was rendered difficult by the slippery and uneven surface of the ice. But after we had gone a little waj', Borgen implored us to make as much haste as possible. On procuring a light the coldest nature would have been chocked by the spectacle which poor Borgen presented. The bear had torn his scalp in several places, and he had received r:.?veral injuries in other parts of his body. His clothes and hair were saturated with blood. We improvised a couch for him in the rear of our own cabin, as his own was not large enough. "The first operation was performed upon him on the cabin table. And here we may briefly notice the singular fact that, although he had been carried more than one hundred paces OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 319 with liis skull almost laid bare, at a temperature of — 13^ Fahreulieit, liis scalp healed so perfectly that not a portion was missing." With characteristic zeal the scientific work was prosecuted by the German scholars. Actual contact with the land and sea life afforded opportunities of generalizing and particular- izing upon the character, habits, and conditions of Northern animation. In the hunt, however, great danger often attended their efforts. Thus is described an encounter with the walrus: "If any creature deserves the name of monster, it is the wal- rus. It is from nine feet six inches to sixteen feet six inches in length, weighs about two thousand pounds, and its skin is three and a half inches thick (a sort of massive coat of mail), with large eye, and a head of intinite ugliness. "Should one of these monsters see a boat, it raises itself, astonished, above the surface, utters at once a cry of alarm, swimming toward it as quickly as possible. This call brings up others, awakens the sleepers which the boat had carefully avoided, and in a short time the vessel is followed by a number of these monsters, blustering in apparent or real fury in all their hideousness. "The creatures may possibly be only actuated by curiosity, but their manner of showing it is so ill-chosen that one feels obliged to act on the defensive. The bellowing, jerking and diving herd is now but a short distance from the boat. The first shot strikes, thus inflaming their wrath, and now begins a" wild fight, in which some of the black sphinxes are struck with axes on the flippers with which they threaten to over- turn the boat." Once on the ice, however, the unwieldy monster is easily managed. On the 1st of Julj^ the "Germania" became free of ice, and, after an examination of Shannon Island, directed her course homeward, arriving once more in the joyous Fatherland, after a voyage of but three weeks, on the 11th of September, 1870. 320 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER XXXIV. HALL'S LAST VOYAGE.— HLS DEATH.— MIRACULOUS PRESERVATION OF LIFE. With feelings of interinino'led sorrow and pleasure we now turn to Captain Hall's third expedition. Upon tlie return from his second sojourn within the Arctic regions Hall labored for months in another project for more extended explorations. The following extracts illustrate his purpose of mind and heart: Peplying to Mr. A. B. Johnson, president of the Hamilton County (Ohio) Teachers' Institute, accepting an invitation to h^cture before the Institute, he writes: ^^ilthough the primary' object of my voyage to the North lias not been for geography, yet I have been enabled to make considerable advance in geographical discoveries. There is a great sad blot upon the present age, which ought to be wiped out, and this is the blank on our maps and artificial globes from about the parallel of 80° north up tt) the North Pole. I, for one, hang my head in shame, when I think how many thou- sands of years ago it was that Gdd gave to man this beautiful world — the whole of it — to subdue, and yet that part of it which must be most interesting and glorious, at least so to me, remains as unknown to us as though it had never been created. * * * S^hortly, I expect to apply to our Government for its aid, feeling that the day has come when the great problem of ages on ages must be solved under the Stars and Stripes." On the 8th of March, 1870, he thus addresses Mr. Grinnell: o m o >-*> n < 1 n n a_ 1 pj* n> 3 ID O- \ zd ^ tf) o H^> •-1 I/) < f-^ iSi 3 02 •- o <-i- CD "-^ Ol rl- < 9 a-a- fp ^^ fCi ^ ■o ; S o % COO ■-^ c tit O o "51 tn tiVt n w cr lu m W D n OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 321 "In three to five years, I doubt not, with tlie same aid and protection of high Heaven as on my two previous Arctic voy- ages, I wonid fnliy accomplish tlie determination of my burn- ing sonJ, which determination, nn^ dear Mr. Grinnell, you know to be to put mj foot on the north extremity of the axis of tlie globe." In writing to the Senate Committee on Foreign Eelations he adds: ''Neither glory nor money has caused me to devote my very life and soul to Arctic exploration." In his efforts to organize the expedition. Hall received the active support of President Grant, Senators John Sherman, Charles Sumner, and many others, and at length Congress came to his aid with an appropriation of |50,000. A schooner-rigged steamer, the "Periwinkle," rechristened tlie "Polaris," was then purchased and equipped for the voyage. All-told, seventeen persons constituted the party, one-half of whom were Germans and Scandinavians. The chief per- sonages were: Captain Hall, commander; Sydney O. Bud- dington, for thirty years in the whaling service, sailing mas- ter; George E. Tyson, assistant navigator; H. Chester, first mate; William Morton, twenty years previous Kane's best man, second mate; Emil Bessels, physician and director of scientific work; Emil Schuman, chief engineer; F. Meyer, meteorologist; Iv. D.AV. Bryan, astronomer and chaplain; besides, Joe, Han- nah, and their child, "Puny." To these were added in Green- land, Hans, hunter and interpreter of the Kane and Hayes expeditions, with his wife and three children. Sailing from New York on June 29th, 1871, the "Polaris" arrived at TES-SI-U-SAK, Greenland, August 22d. This is the most northern permanent civilized settlement in the world and is in latitude 70° 30'. Steps had previously been made along the Greenland coast for the purpose of purchasing dogs, fur suits, and other Arctic supplies. 322 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: Leaving Tessiiisak, the "rolarit^" met with very little ice and entered the body of water thought by Kane, Morton, and Hayes to be an open polar sea, but which was found by Hall to be a mere expansion of Smith's Sound or Kobeson Channel, and now known as Kane's Basin. In a week's time the "Polaris" had attained her highest latitude, 82° 29', according to Hall, but 13', or about fifteen miles, less, by Meyer's calculation. Robeson Channel becoming filled with heavy ice, the "Po- laris" was drifted southward, until, on the 3d of September, an indentation on the Greenland side was entered. It was named THANK GOD HARBOR, a cove of Polaris Bay, in latitude 81° 38'. Here winter quar- ters were established. This was two hundred miles north of Kane's headquarters, and about three miles farther north than the last point reached by Hayes. The "Polaris" was moored to a huge island of ice named Providenceberg. On the 10th of October, Captain Hall, with Chester, Joe, and Hans, started on a trip north with two sledges and four- teen dogs. On the 13th, the long Arctic night set in, with a temperature of 7°. Ten days after leaving the ship, the party reached the ter- mination of their journey, in about latitude 83° 5'. They had covered a distance of seventy miles in six marches. A point of land seemed to be visible still north of them, but the appearance of a cloud prevented a settlement of the question. Excepting a glacier in latitude 80° 30', the moun- tains of Kennedy Channel and Robeson Strait appeared to be free from ice and snow. Seals, ducks, geese, hares, lemmings, foxes, wolves, bears, ptarmigans, and musk-cattle were found in abundance. Much of this journey was made over the ice of a bay, which Captain Hall named in honor of the celebrated Rev. J. P. New- man. The cape at the southern extremity of its mouth he OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 323 named Sumner lleadlaud, as a slight token of his appreciation of the services of the great orator and statesman; to the one at its northern extremity, and near the last encampment, he applied the name of Mr. Brevoort. The strait into which the hay opens he named in honor of the Honorable Secretary of the United States Navy, George M. Kobeson. Having written a dispatch to Secretary Robeson, Hall de- posited a cop3' of it at Cape Brevoort. This was the last ever penned by him. Setting out upon the return, the 'Tolaris" was reached in four days. Captain Hall appeared to be in usual health, but the sudden change from open-air temperatures of — 15° and — 20° to 60° and 70° in the cabin had a bad effect upon him, and he partook of no refreshment except a cup of coft'ee. After taking a hot sponge bath, he retired for the night. In the morning he was much worse, suffering with a burn- ing sensation in the throat, and with vomiting. He steadily grew worse for a week, became delirious and partially para- lytic. He, however, nearly recovered and began to resume his work. On the 8th of November he was found in his cabin by Mr. Tyson, insensible and breathing heavily. That same night he died. A SHALLOW GRAVE but twenty-six inches deep was dug with great difficulty in the frozen soil, and, at mid-day on the 10th of November, 1871, all that was mortal of the gallant Charles Francis Hall was laid to rest. Slowly and with deep sorrow the ship's company picked its way by the aid of lanterns to the lonely spot. Over the body, covered with the flag he loved so well, was read a Christian burial service; and then followed the doleful sound of the frozen clods as the,y struck upon the coffin, intermingled with lamentations of poor Joe and Hannah, to whom he had been as a father for more than ten years. In July of the next year, the grave was marked by means 324 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH I'OLE; of a pine board one and a half iuehes thick, upon which was cut this inscription : ^ In memory of CHARLES FRANCIS HALL, Late commander IT. S. Steamer Polaris, North Pole Expedition. Died Nov. 8, 1S71. Aged 50 years. "I am the resurrection and the life; he that believeth on me, though he were dead, yet shall he live." The grave was also surrounded with stones enclosing a quantity of soil to which were transferred some plants. Within the grave was also buried a cylinder containing a history of the expedition. Four years later, the English expedition under Nares erect- ed a more substantial monument in the same place to com- memorate the services of him who had so long and so faithfully sought for further light regarding their countrymen. It was a brass tablet prepared in England and bearing this inscription: "Sacred to the Memory of CAPTAIN C. F. HALL, Of the U. S. S. 'Polaris,' Who sacrificed his life in the advancement of science, November 8, 1871. "This tablet has been erected by the British Polar Expedi- tion of 1875, who, following in his footsteps, have profited by his experience." It was placed at the foot of the grave, upon which was found still alive the willow planted by Captain Tyson, in 1872. Upon the death of Captain Hall, the control of the ship and the direction of its movements devolved upon Captain Bud- dington, while all sledge journeys and scientific operations were in charge of Dr. Bessels. This was agreeable to instruc- tions from the (lovernment. The two men therefore held a consultation and prepared and signed the following: "It is our honest intention to honor our dear flag, and to OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 325 hoist her on the most northern part of the earth, to com- plete the enterprise upon which tlie eyes of the whole civilized world are raised, and to do all in onr power to reach our pro- posed goal/' The ensuing' winter was spent as usual in the Arctic regions and there was no lack of food or fueL Joe and Hans hunted with great success and fur clothing was obtained in abun- dance. The storerooms, already partly filled with skeletons of animals and birds, with eggs, and other specimens of natural history, became well supplied. A large number of very beautiful fossils was collected on Oftley Island, near the mouth of the Petermann Fiord. They were of a tropical vegetation resembling bamboo and were found in a crumbling embankmeut. Interesting remains of Eskimo habitations Avere also seen on this island. In the im- mediate vicinity of Thank God Harbor were collected fossils from erratic boulders. Quite a quantity of driftwood was also gathered. It had doubtless been borne thither by the current coming from the north. Earh^ in June, 1872, Chester and Tyson attempted a boat journe}^ northward, but failed to get as far as did Captain Hall. They were, however, recalled by Captain Buddington, Avho had determined to return home. On the 12th of August, Mrs. Hans Hendrick was delivered of a son, very appropriately named by the crew CHARLES POLARIS HENDRICK. The little stranger was gladly welcomed and much petted by all at Thank God Harbor. This, it may be remarked, was the first babe ever born to civilized parents at so high a latitude, viz., 81° 37' north. The "Polaris" becoming free of ice, on the evening of that same day, the vessel steamed slowly southw^ard along the west- ern shore of Kennedy Channel. Four days later, in latitude 80° 2', she made fast to a floe and drifted hither and thither in Kane Sea and Smitli Strait for 326 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; nearly two mouths without gaiuing more than one hundred twenty miles south, being, at the end of that time, in the vicinity of Littleton Island, latitude 78° 20'. On the 15th of October, the '^Polaris" encountered a terrific gale from the south. Provisions and other stores were hastily placed on the ice. At midnight, in the midst of the storm, while nineteen of the party were upon the floe, the SHIP BROKE LOOSE and immediately disappeared. The next morning she was seen under steam and sail, but soon changed her course and again disappeared. A few hours later, another glimpse was caught of her, but upon once more disappearing, the party upon the ice floe supposed that they had been abandoned. The unfortunate castaways made several vain attempts to reach the shore, and soon became scattered on different pieces of ice. Finally, however, by means of the row-boats, which they fortunately retained, they were again collected upon the main floe. Here snow-houses were built in which they took refuge. For several days they continued to see land, but soon that disappeared and on they were carried by the great white wilderness into the dread silence of the Arctic night. On several occasions they were upon the point of actual starvation, and cannibalism was thought of. But each time, the sea relented and gave them food. ON NEW YEAR'S EVE Meyer's observation showed their position to be in latitude 72° 10', longitude 60° 40', off the coast from Pond's Inlet. They had therefore drifted five hundred twenty-five miles in nine weeks. The thermometer indicated a temperature of —39° F. February was stormy and very cold. Towards the close of the month provisions were nearly exhausted. During March a number of seals were secured and food be- came abundant. Innumerable iceberas surrounded the floe A OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 327 and frequently broke up with a noise resembling that of artil- lery and musketry in battle. On the 31st they had drifted to latitude 59° 41', oft' the north peninsula of Labrador. They were then in clear water and uiK)n a small piece of ice. The 1st of April brought a gale and'the party were obliged to take refuge in one of the boats. This leaked badly and was loaded too heavily. The meat and clothing were therefore thrown overboard, the tent, skins for covering, and a little bread and pemmicau being all that was retained. GALE AFTER GALE pursued them and they were compelled frequentl3^ to seek refuge on the clashing ice floes. On the night of April Tth, the mass upon which they were broke in two, one section carrying with it the boat, the kyak, and Mr. Meyers. Amidst great peril these were finally saved, and the entire party continued to drift, wet, cold, and suffering almost the agonies of starva- tion. On the 18th a seal was killed and eaten raw, each person receiving an equal portion. On the 20th, an observation showed them to be in latitude o3° 57' — nearly opposite Hamilton Inlet and nearly nineteen hundred miles directly south of the point whence they began to drift. On the 22d, a bear was seen coming toward the party. Joe and Ilans, secreting themselves behind an ice hummock, await- ed its approach with great anxiet}'. Almost simultaneously two shots were fired and the creature fell dead. With shouts of joy the party rushed upon it, and drank to satiety of its warm blood. All were greatly revived thereafter and took fresh courage. By the 26th, they were in the midst of fine sealing grounds and obtained a plentiful supply of food. At last, in the afternoon of the 28th, a steamer carrying the American colors was sighted and an effort was made to attract her attentis (U ^ OR, LIFE IN THE ailEAT WHITE WORLD. 337 settlements, taken about a fourth of a mile in a direction E. IS. E. of the house and there cached. On the afternoon of June 3d final leave was taken of Polaris House. Poor E-took-e-sha and his family expressed great sor- row at being thus left. The other natives, however, were not visibly affected, the difference being attributed to their coming suddenly into possession of so much property. Twenty days later the party arrived in safety at a point about twenty miles south by east of Cape York. Here, when the party were at rest, Messrs. Chester and Bryan being on watch duty, Mr. Chester suddenly aroused the company with a thrill of joy, shouting, "SHIP AHOY." It was not cruel deception that called every man instantly to his feet. There, southward about ten miles, were three masts and the smoke-stack of a bark — the auxiousl^^looked-f or Scotch whaler. Hoisting the Stars and Stripes on two oars lashed together, the strange vessel signaled in return by running up her ensign that the boat party were observed. A few hours later all were aboard the "Ravenscraig," of Kirkcaldy, Scotland, Captain Allen, The ship lay in lati- tude 75° 38' north, and h)ugitude 65° 35' west. The rescued party received from the crew of the "Ravenscraig" genuine Scotch hospitality and also with gratitude the information that the ice-floe party under Captain Tyson had been picked up by Captain Bartlett of the "Tigress." Shortly afterwards the "Ravenscraig" proceeded to Lancas- ter Sound and Barrow's Strait, where the whaling-vessels, the "Arctic," Captains Adams and Markham; the "Intrepid," Cap- tain Soutar, and the "Eric," Captain Walker, assisted in en- tertaining the rescued men and in giving them passage to Dun- dee, whence all returned to the United States in October of the same year — 1873. Of the above-mentioned British officers we shall learn more concerning Captain Markham in succeeding pages. While Captain Buddington and party were thus being cared 338 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; for by their generous rescuers, the United States Government was not idle in prosecuting search for them. Upon the arrival of the ice-floe part^^ in Washington, the owners of the "Tigress" offered her to the Navj^ Department for the purpose of seek- ing the remainder of the partj^ The proposition was accepted, and, accompanied by the "Juniata," Commanders Greer and Braine respective!}^, proceeded to the West Greenland waters. On board the "Juniata" was Lieutenant G. W. De Long, whose after history and tragic end will be related at a later period in our Arctic narrative. Commander Greer was accompanied by Captain Tyson as acting lieutenant. The}- proceeded on board the "Tigress" to Polaris House without acquiring information concerning Captain Buddington and party till their arrival among the Eskimos, whom they found in possession of the house. The "Polaris," the chief speaker among the Eskimos said, had been forced by a gale which occurred a short time after the departure of Captain Buddington and company, about a mile and a half toward the channel separating Littleton Island from the mainland, and there sunk. Her loss was much regretted by the natives. Commander Greer observed two small icebergs stranded upon the wreck. All articles remain- ing undestroyed hj the natives were placed on board, and the "Tigress," which then continued the search southward, re- turned to New York on the 10th of November. Wliile the "Tigress" was absent on the northern portion of her voyage, the "Juniata," being merely a supply vessel for the former, remained at Godhaven, Disco Island. Here on the north side of the island, in the Arctic latitude of 70°, Commander Braine inspected the WEST GREENLAND COAL MINES. He says: "The coal proved frail in its structure, not bearing much handling, and was obtained in lumps. It was experi- mented with for fifteen hours' steaming in the 'Little Juniata,' using salt water. It ignites easily, burns freely, and forms very little clinker. The fine coal burns nearly as well as the lump. A regular pressure of steam was kept up, twenty OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 333 pounds to the square inch, with the furnace doors open part of the time, and at no time was the saturation above 2-32. By weight I judge it requires about one-fourth more of this coai to be consumed in an}- given time to produce a mechanical effect equal to the best Welsh coal. This coal is bituminous in its nature. It produces very little smoke, of a brownish color, and requires but little labor in stoking. The best results, as obtained, are from a thick and level fire. "While in this locality several veins were found which in- dicated good coal, and large quantities of it; so easily was the coal mined that our men, nine in number, would have removed and carried to the beach one hundred tons in eight days with the tools which we used." These mines were located upon the Waigat — the strait ly- ing between the island and the mainland on the north — a short distance from the beach and at an elevation of about one hun- dred feet above the sea. The "Juniata" preceded the "Tigress" to New York about two weeks. Both had previously been confirmed of the safety of the "Polaris" party on board the whaling-vessels. Thus happily ended the expedition so sorrowfully begun. Of the thirty-four persons related to the enterprise proper, all but one — its deeply lamented brain, and heart, and soul, the intrepid Hall, were restored to health and home. They had not been unmindful of Him who controlled their destinies, in their religious devotions, and He had not deserted them in peril. But for the untimely death of Hall it can scarcely be doubted that he would have achieved wonderful success. Even as it was, he advanced farther north than ever yet man had gone\ With him the myth of the open polar sea disappeared; liobeson Strait, the great ice-hydra of the North. Greenland Arctic, was made to take its place, and geographical science became enriched by a generous contribution with which the donor also freely gave a consecrated life. Botany, geology, astronomy, meteorology — all received persistent devotion by enthusiastic assistants. But perhaps greater than all else was 340 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the knowledge of the E>skimos of that region — those hardy, but affectionate, MOST DISTANT DWELLERS OF THE NORTH, that Highland nest of "untamed eagles," as LI all had styled them, and whom he loved so long and so well. Sureh^, as there is in the Great Beyond a place for every tribe and nation, will this humane race meet there a gallant Franklin, a lion-hearted Parry, a courageous McClure, a chival- rous Kane, and an heroic Hall — unsullied array of Christian cham|)ions who may indeed sing from over the battlements of Heaven, "Waft, waft, ye winds, His story And you, ye waters, roll, Till, like a sea of glory, It spreads from pole to pole." LIIUTLNVMT LtURLES W, CHI]PP. U i N. _DR. J M AMBLER, U S S. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 34i CHAPTER XXXV. THE DISCOVERY OF FRANZ-JOSEF LAND. The result of the German expedition under Koldewey in- duced navigators to keep away from the ice-pack of East Greenland and to try the more open waters of Nova Zembla. There the Austrians sought and found an accessible gateway to the far north. In aid of the project, a truly noble nobleman subscribed at once 40,000 florins. Preliminary to this, a pioneer expedition under the joint command of Lieutenants Payer and Weyprecht, each of whom had seen service in the previous German expedition, was sent out in June, 1771, in a light sailing vessel, the '^Isbjorn," but 55 feet in length, 17 in width, 6 in draught, and of 50 tons burden. She was commanded by her proprietor. Captain Kjelsen, and carried a crew^ consisting of four sailors, a carpenter, a cook, and an harpooner. The results of the voyage were highly satisfactory. It was shown. First. That the Xova Zembla Sea is open every year as high, probably, as 78° north, and connected with the Sea of Kara; also to be unusually free of ice. Second. That these waters contained the least ice during the last days of August and all through September. Third. That Nova Zembla Sea is ver^' shallow, being a sub- marine extension of the North Siberian plains. In its extreme north part it was only 100 fathoms deep. Fourth. That the earlier expeditions had failed to pene- trate the ice northwest of Nova Zembla because they had ar- rived in the ice too early in the season — before the ice had broken up — and because they lacked steam power. Fifth. That the gulf stream appeared to have great influ- 342 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ence in weakening tlie ice in that region. The main expedition was therefore at once titted out under the name of the AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EXPEDITION. The vessel secured was the "Tegetthoff," a small steamer of only 220 tons, having a steam engine of 100-horse power. She carried fuel and provisions for two and a half years, being overburdened by about thirty tons. But even then, says Lieu- tenant Paj^er, the historian of the voyage, she was "far more commodious than the miserable hole in which eight of us had been crowded together on our Greenland tour." The plan was to penetrate the ice extending to Nova Zembla during the latter part of August, and to establish headquar- ters according to circumstances, and in case of the loss of the ship, to gain the interior of Siberia by the use of row-boats. No communication with Europe was to be depended upon. Says Payer: "The motives of an undertaking so long and laborious can- not be found in the mere love of distinction or adventure. The object must not be the admiration of men, but the extension of the domain of knowledge. The grandeur of one's purpose alone can support him, for otherwise the dreary void of things without can only be an image of the void within." Sailing from Bremerhaven on the 13th of June, 1872, the "Tegetthoff" took her final departure a few days later, from the northern Norwegian port of Tromsoe, and was soon in Arctic ice. The crew, numbering twenty-four, consisted of Germans, Italians, and Hungarians, the orders being given in Italian. On August 1st the vessel became beset in latitude 71° 39', longitude 53°. On the next day she broke through into albeit of open water surrounding Nova Zembla. Behind her was a field of ice 105 miles wide. Sailing northward along the west coast of Nova Zembla, the staunch little vessel came to another ice field near latitude 75° 30'. In this vicinity on the 12th of August another vessel was suddenly descried on the horizon. It proved to be their old friend, the "Isbjorn." She had been chartered and despatched OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 343 by the generous patron of the expedition, Count Wilczek, for the purpose of depositing a supply of provisions in case of acci- dent to the 'Tegetthoff" at a place on the Nova Zembla coast knov^n as the "Three Coftins," near Cape Nassau, on the north- ern shore of the island. All were greatly astonished that so small a sailing craft should be able to penetrate the ice to such a distance. On the 18th the crews of both vessels celebrated the birth of the King and Emperor of the Austrians, Franz-Josef I. Two days later the ships parted company, the "Isbjorn" re- turning south, the "Tegetthoff" proceeding northward. When but a few miles off the cape, on the evening of the same day, the further progress of the "Tegetthoft'" was effec- tually stopped by an ice-barrier, in latitude 76° 22', longitude - 63° 3' east. "Ominous were the events of that day," says Payer, "for immediately after we had made the 'Tegetthoff' fast to that floe, the ice closed in upon us from all sides, and we became prisoners in its grasp. No water was to be seen around us, / and never again were we destined to see our vessel in water. / From day to day we hoped for the hour of our deliverance. ^ At first we expected it hourly, then daily, then from week to I week; then at the seasons of the year and change of the i weather, then in the changes of new years. But that hour never came, yet the light of hope which supports man in all his sufferings, and raises him above them all, never forsook us, amid all the depressing influences of expectations cherished only to be disappointed." Drifting steadily northward, the 13th of October found this motley, 3'^et enthusiastic crew in great peril. The superstitious among them regarded the number 13 with much alarm and recalled the circumstance that the com- mittee of the expedition had been selected on February 13th; that the keel of the "Tegetthoff" had been laid on January 13th; that she was launched April 13th; that the expedition embarked on June 13th; that it left Tromsoe July 13th; that 344 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE- thirteen days later the vessel stuck in the ice, and that now, on October 13th, the temperature was at minus 13° Centigrade, the ship being in great danger for the first time. Their perilous situation is thus described by the ever- graphic Payer: ''Rushing on deck we discovered that we were surrounded and squeezed by the ice; the afterpart of the ship was already nipped and pressed, and the rudder, which was the first to en- counter its assault, shook and groaned; but as its great weight did not admit of its being shipped, we were content to lash it firml,y, Noise and confusion reigned supreme, and step by step destruction drew nigh in the crushing together of the fields of ice. -» * * According to our usual custom, a por- tion of the Bible was read on deck, and this day quite acci- dentally the portion read was the history of Joshua; but if in his da}^ the sun showed any inclination to stand still it was more than could be said of the ice at this time." Immediate danger, however, passed and a house of refuge was constructed upon the ice-floe to be used in case of accident to the ship. Time passed and the holidays were celebrated with much display. Even the dogs were allowed the privilege of the cabin, "The poor animals," SAYS THE KIND-HEARTED PAYER, "were so dazzled by looking at our lamps, that they almost took it for the sun itself; but by and hj their attention was directed exclusively to the rich remains of our dinner, the sight of which appeared completely to satisfy their notions of the wonders of the cabin. After behaving themselves with great propriety they again quietly withdrew, all except 'Jubiiial/ who appeared to be indignant at the deceitfulness of our conduct, inasmuch as we had allowed him to starve so long on dried horseflesh and on crushed bear's head, while we reveled in luxury. lie accordingly made his way into Lieu- tenant Brosch's cabin, where, discovering A MOUNTAIN OF MACARONI. he immediately attacked it, and warned us off from every OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 345 attempt to rescue it, by growling fiercely till lie bad finisbed it. ^Sumbii,' bowever, witb miicb levity, siilfered biiiiself to be made drunk by tbe sailors witb rum, and everytbing wbicb be bad scraped togetber for weeks and buried in tbe snow and so carefully watcbed, was stolen from bim by otber dogs in one nigbt." Tbus tbe drift continued tbrougb an unbroken Arctic nigbt of 111 days. Tbe spring and summer of 1873 also passed, and still no release was apparent, and tbe tbougbt of new discov- eries bad passed from tbe minds of all. Fiualh', on Au- gust 31st, A JOYFUL SURPRISE awaited tbe courageous men. Let Payer bimself relate it: '^At mid-day, as we were leaning on tbe bulwarks of tbe sbi]) and scanning tbe gliding mists, tbrougb wbicb tbe rays of tbe sun broke ever and anon, a wall of mist, lifting itself up suddenly, revealed to us afar off in tbe nortbwest tbe outlines of bold rocks, wbicb in a few minutes seemed to grow into a radiant Alpine land. At first we all stood transfixed, and bardly believing wbat we saw. Tben, carried away by tbe reality of our good fortune, we burst fortb into sbouts of joy — 'LAND, LAND, LAND AT LAST!' * * * For tbousauds of years tbis land bad lain buried from tbe knowledge of men, and now its disc< n iJ ^ .2< -2 ■ ^ ,!_) eg •SO o H tf'- Lieut. R. E. Peary, C. E., U. S. N. (See Chapter XLII.) f^^^irffc-V^ Little Auks on Sea Ice. (See page 335, etc.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 353 er, Skipper Caiisen, for his able assistance; aud let us also note that it was he who, on the 9th of September, 1871, dis- covered on the northeast coast of Nova Zembla, in latitude 76° 7', the ruins of Barents' house, a roofless structure ten feet lonii,', six wide, and filled with ice and gravel containing household articles, boxes, books, etc., and which he sold for 10,800 crowns, as may be verified by viewing the collection in the restored house of the old ice-pilot at The Hague. Referring to this, Markham writes: ''No man had entered the lonely dwelling where the famous discoverer sojourned during the long winter of 1590 for nearly three centuries. There stood the cooking-pans over the fire- place, the old clock against the wall, the arms, the tools, the drinking-vessels, the instruments aud the books that beguiled the weary hours of that long night 275 years before. Perhaps the most touching relic is the pair of small shoes. There was a little cabin-boy among the crew, who died, as Gerrit de Vere tells us, during the winter. This accounts for the shoes hav- ing been left behind. There was a flute, too, once played by that poor boy, which still gives out a few notes." GEORGE W. MEI,Y]LU3, CHIEF ENGINEER, O.S.N.: UEUTENANT JOHN W, DANENHOWEB, D.S.R. 354 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER XXXVI. THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. Fast losing her laurels for the discovery and exploration of northern lands and attendant scientific investigation, Eng- land once more roused the Lion of Patriotism from the lethargy into which it had fallen as regards Arctic matters ever since the great activity in sending out the various Franklin Search Expeditions. America, Germany, Austria, Sweden — all had now surpassed her in the acquisition of a scientific knowledge of the unknown North. But there was still within her the spirit of try again, and roused to action through the efforts of that princely Christian gentleman, Admiral Sherard Osborn, himself an Arctic ex- plorer; by Sir Roderick I. Murchison, president of the Royal Geograi3hical Society, and an eminent geologist and geograph- er as well; by Lady Franklin, whose interest in Arctic sub- jects continued unabated till her death in 1875; and by many others of great influence, the government gave its sanction to an expedition. It consisted of two vessels, the steam-sloop "Alert," of 751 tons and 100-horse power, and of the steam- whaler ''Discovery," purchased of a Dundee firm. In command of the expedition and in immediate charge of the "Alert" was Captain, afterwards Sir, George Xares. Second in command was Commander A. H. Markham, whom we previously met on board the "Arctic," one of the whaling- vessels that had helped to entertain the rescued party of the Hall expedition. Immediately in charge of the "Discovery" was Captain H. F. Stephenson. All told, the complement of OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 355 men numbered 120, many of whom had seen previous Arctic service. By the 24th of July, 1875, both vessels were beyond the ice of Melville Bay, having steamed to the northwest from Disco, across Baflfln's Bay, where, on the date mentioned, the great central ice-pack was struck, but which, in thirty-four hours, they succeeded in boring through, thus performing a feat never before accomplished and that proved the great utility of steam for Arctic navigation. A month later, August 24th, the ships arrived in safety at Cape Lieber, the limit reached by Hayes in 18()0. Rounding that point a good harbor sheltered by an island was found in Lady Franklin Bay Here, on the following morning, was seen a herd of nine musk cattle peacefully grazing on the fresh Arctic vegetation. By the 10th of October thirty-two of these animals had been secured and at one time more than a ton and a half of their fiesh was hanging frozen for use. On this day the sun disap- peared and remained absent 135 days. In this harbor the "Discovery" remained frozen in for ten and a half months. The temperature of the lower decks was maintained at from 48° to 56° above zero throughout the winter. Meanwhile, the "Alert" established herself in quarters far- ther north. On the 31st of August she attained latitude 82° 24', in Robeson Channel, the highest latitude ever reached by ship, and only 21' south of Parry's limit by sledge in 1827, viz., 82° 45', north of Spitzbergen. In Robeson Channel the sea and land-ice were separated by a narrow lane of water which, off Cape Sheridan, entirely disappeared, the hoped-for northern exit into the Polar sea being thereby completely locked by the union of the two great ice masses. The coast-ice was in the form of a jagged parapet, fringing the shelving ledges which rose to an average height of twenty feet and were broken here and there by deep, glistening ravines. Having passed the northeast point of Grant Land, which 356 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Hayes had so longed to reach, Nares found, not an "open polar sea," but instead a "SEA OF ANCIENT ICE," of great age and of great thickness; for, in place of being five or six feet thick, as had been the case of the new floes, or ten or twelve feet of the old floes encountered in the channel, it rose to a height of fifteen or twenty feet above the surface of the water and had a total depth of from eighty to one hun- dred twenty feet, and resembled a connected chain of low, flat-topped icebergs. In the midst of such ice, where the sub- merged portion extending to the land left a sufficient water- way for the ship, the "Alert" found safe winter-quarters and was soon frozen in by the newly-formed shore ice. On the 21st of September, Lieutepant Aldrich, accompanied by Adam Ayles, left the "Alert" with two sledges drawn by dogs, to lay out a route round Cape Joseph Henry, on the north side of Grant Land, for a large party which was to follow. On the 25th Commander Markham, with Lieutenants Parr and May, started with three sledges to establish a depot of pro- visions to the northwestward as far as might be found prac- ticable. On the 27th Aldrich and Ayles reached latitude 82° 48', and from the summit of a mountain two thousand feet high, des- cried a wide expanse of land to the northwestward as far as 83° 7', with high mountains on the south. They returned to the ship on the 5th of October. After an absence of nineteen days Markham's party also re- turned. They had established a depot in latitude 82° 44' and traced the coast two miles farther to wdiat may be considered the exact latitude reached by Parry, north of Spitzbergen, near- ly a half century before. The thermometer ranged, during this trip, from 15° to 22° below zero. The party numbered twen- t}' -four men, eight of whom were severely frost-bitten. Meanwhile, Lieutenant Rawson sought to communicate with the "Discovery," in Lady Franklin Ray. The ice in the channel, however, was found rotten and unsafe within nine miles of the ship and piled up thirty feet high along the shore. OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 3-57 the deep snow-drifts in the raA-ines also rendering the over- hmd route impassable. The winter was very pleasantly passed on both vessels. Of the fifty-live men composing the crew of the "Alert" only two could be found who could not read. Besides a school for in- struction, there were also lectures, readings, concerts, and the- atrical entertainments arranged for the enjoyment of all. Each vessel carried a printing press, and from these were issued the programs, bills of fare on the occasions of great dinners, etc. On November 5th, the anniversary^ of the "Gunpowder plot," Guy Fawkes was burned in eftigy upon the ice. On the 9th of November Captain Nares writes: "To-day the moon reappeared above the southern horizon. Her movements are so important to us that a monthly bulletin is published giving the precise account of when she will ap- pear and when depart. She is truly the 'presiding goddess' of the long Arctic night; reflecting, during the event of her visit, the light of the totally absent sun for ten consecutive days and nights as she circles round the heavens without ever setting. During some part of her stay, full moon occurs, and she displays her greatest beauty. At the time of new moon, when her light Avould be of least value, she is absent in southern latitudes." Christmas was spent as is here related: "First of all, in the morning we had Christmas waits in the usual manner. A sergeant of marines, the chief boatswain's mate, and three others^ went around the ship singing Christmas carols suited to the occasion, and made a special stay outside the captain's cabin. On the lower deck in the forenoon there were prayers, and after that, captain and officers visited the mess in the lower deck, tasted the pudding, inspected the dec- orations which had been made, and so on. Then the BOXES OP PRESENTS by friends in England were brought out, the name of him for whom it was intended having been already fixed to each box, and the presents were then distributed by the captain. Ring- 358 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; ing cheers, which soimded strange enough in that lone place, were given for the donors, some of them very dear indeed to the men who were so far away from their homes. Cheers were also given for the captain, and for absent comrades on the "Alert." A choir was then formed, and 'The l\oast Beef of Old Eng- land' had its virtues praised again." Fresh meat was had in abundance on each ship. Fish, beef, and mutton brought from England hung upon the masts, frozen hard. Sheep had also been brought and these were killed from time to time. HUNTING PARTIES were also quite successful. Those from the "Alert" secured six musk-cattle, three foxes, twenty hares, ten ptarmigans, twenty-six ducks, and seventy geese. Those from the "Discovery" were even more successful, es- pecially as relates to securing musk-oxen, hares, and seals. On the 29th of February the sun reappeared. On March 12th Lieutenants Egerton and Kawsou, with Christian Petersen, the interpreter, attempted to open com- munication with the "Discovery," but returned on the 16th, Petersen having completely broken down. His hands were paralyzed and his feet so badly frozen that it became neces- sary to amputate them. Three months later the unfortunate man died. Somewhat later the attempt was resumed with two sea- men, this time with success, and the cooperation of sledge par- ties from both vessels thereafter established. FROM THE "DISCOVERY" an exploring party of eight men under Lieutenant Beaumont crossed Robeson Channel on the broken and moving ice and explored the Greenland coast to latitude 82° 18'. Two of the men died of scurvj^ before reaching Polaris Bay. Llaving reached the limit of his journey, Beaumont turned toward the ship, but four more of the men soon yielded to fatigue. The three not disabled now hauled not only their OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 359 four exhausted comrades, but also the provisions, ou a single sledge, making the journey often twice and thrice over the same piece of rough ice, advancing the burden in separate loads. Says Nares : ''The gallant band struggled manfully onward, thankful if they made one mile a day, but never losing heart." Opportunely, a relief party consisting of llawson. Dr. Cop- pinger, and the FAMOUS ESKIMO HANS, of the Kane, Hayes, and Hall expeditions, found them and saved their lives. Arriving at Polaris Bay, the depot of pro- visions left by the "Polaris" was found, game was killed, and thus their distress relieved. Lieutenant Fulford and Dr. Cop- pinger explored Petermaun Fiord, and found it to terminate in a deep glacier front. The party remained absent from the ship 132 days. At Discovery Harbor some good coal w^as found. Lieutenant Archer surveyed Lady Franklin Bay and found its head sixty-five miles inland, and to be surrounded by lofty mountains and glacier-filled valleys. FROM THE "ALERT" Lieutenant Aldrich, with seven men, explored 220 miles to the west side of Grant Land, but found nothing in sight beyond except the wide ice-covered sea. Setting out upon the return he was fortunately met by Lieutenant May, who found the part}^ in an exhausted condition, with only one man able to assist in hauling four disabled companions, the other two strug- ling along by the side of the sledge. The great event of the sledge journey is now to be related, namely, MARKHAM'S SLEDGE JOURNEY over the sea-ice. Setting out on the 3d of April, the party consisted of Cap- tain Markham, Lieutenant Parr, Dr. Moss, Mr. White, one of the engineers, and twenty-eight men. The outfit consisted of four sledges each drawn by seven men, and accompanied by an officer, two boats, four tents eleven feet long and four feet 360 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; wide, and about uine-tentlis of a ton of provisions to each sledge. For tlie first few davs good pi\)gress was made. Upon reaching the depot of provisions left at Cape Joseph Henry in the previous season the party were rearranged, Markham and Parr pushing on over the rough and hummocky "sea of ancient ice" with fifteen men and three sledges. The difiiculties of the journey will be inferred from a few of Markham's journal entries: "April 10th: Distance made good, one mile; distance marched, seven. "12t]i. 1| made good; 9 traveled. "17th. 1| made good; 9 traveled. "18th. 1 made good; 10 traveled and ten hours to do it." On the 19th, one of the boats, weighing eight hundred pounds, was left behind, it being necessary to lighten the loads ov/ing to the disablement of two of the men by an attack of the scurvy, thus making it necessary to haul them. Upon quitting the boat its mast was decorated with red cloths to serve as signals upon the return of the party. Thus the snail-like journey was continued. Says Nares: "The journey was consequently an incessant battle to over- come ever-recurring obstacles, each hard-worn success stimu- lating them for the next struggle. A passage-way had always to be cut through the squeezed-up ice with pickaxes, an extra one being carried for the purpose, and an incline picked out of the perpendicular side of the high floes, or roadway built up, before the sledges — generally one at a time— could be brought on. Instead of advancing with a steady walk, the usual means of progression, more than half of each day was expended by the whole party facing the sledge and pulling it forward a few feet at a time." On the 30th of April a dense fog was encountered and threatened to entangle them in a labyrinth of hummocks. They, however, struggled on for ten days, when a stop was made and a camp for the invalids established and left in charge of the cooks. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 361 On the 12tli Markham and Parr again set out with such of the men as were able to venture forward, in order to make a dash for the highest point attainable. This last march is thus related hj Markham : "We had some very severe walking, through which the labor of dragging a sledge would be interminable, and occa- sionally almost disappearing through cracks and fissures, un- til twenty minutes to noon, when a halt was called. The artificial horizon was set up, and the FLAGS AND BANNERS WERE DISPLAYED, these fluttering out bravely before a southwest wind, which latter, however, was decidedl}- cold and unpleasant. At noon we obtained a good altitude and proclaimed our latitude to be 83° 20' 26" north, exactly three hundred and ninety-nine and one-half miles from the North Pole. On this being duly an- nounced, three cheers were given, with one more for Captain Nares; then the whole party, in the exuberance of their spirits at having reached their turning point, sang 'The Union Jack of Old England,' by the grand paleocrystic sledging chorus, winding up, like loyal subjects, with 'God Save the Queen.' " They had traveled seventy miles north of Grant Land over the paleocrystic ice. Both Markham and Parr were eager to push on, but the salvation of the party depended upon a speedy return, for nearly all of the men were stricken with the scurvy. Forced marches carried them to Depot Point, near Cape Joseph Henry, on the 7th of June. Here, while Markham watched and labored for the comfort of his men, Parr set out alone for the "Alert," thirty miles distant. Stimulated with the consciousness that upon his exertions depended the lives of the stricken men, he proved himself equal to the emergency and reached the ship in twenty-four hours. Before midnight of the 8th Captain Nares was on the way to Depot Point, at the head of a relieving party. Lieutenant May, Dr. Moss, and a seaman, with a light dog sledge, were sent forward as a lightly-equipped advance party and reached 362 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the camp fifty hours from Parr's departure. In that short interval George Porter, one of the afflicted, had died and was buried in the snow. No other life was lost. Of the fifteen men who, two months before, had left Depot Point, only three were able to assist in dragging back the sledges; nine had to be hauled and three struggled along of themselves. Meanwliile, Captain Stephenson, of the "Discovery," crossed Robeson Channel and, in the presence of twenty-four officers and men, on the 13th of May, erected at Hall's grave the brass tablet referred to in preceding pages. It was indeed a graceful act and one that all Americans gratefully acknowl- edge. In taking leave of the narrative of the Nares expedition it is interesting to note that close to Cape Beechey, six or seven miles from the eighty-second parallel of latitude, were found the MOST NORTHERN TRACES OF MAN yet discovered. These were a stone lamp, a very perfect snow- scraper made of walrus tusk, and the framework of a large wood sledge. Upon the return of Markham's sledging part}-. Captain Nares returned to England, arriving there October 27, 1876, after an absence of sixteen months, with both ships in good condition and with a loss of but four men. Captain Nares proved liimself to be a brave and efficient officer. With Kellet and McClintock he had seen previous ser- vice in the search for Franklin. The expedition under his immediate command must be granted to have been a marked success, only a few closet critics, paper philosophers, and ne'er do anj^thing navigators, urging the contrary. The only possible criticism that ma}^ be offered lies in the fact that the men of the expedition had not been fortified against the attacks of the scurvy as had been the officers. Had they continued in as good condition as the officers it is not difficult to foresee that much more might have been accomplished. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 362 CHAPTEK XXXVII. SCHWATKA'S EXPEDITION TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. Among the notewortbj^ efforts made to fathom the nij^- teries of Sir John Franklin's fate, and to recover documents partaining to the historj^ of the unfortunate enterprise, the Schwatka "search" expedition elicits our grateful appre- ciation. Ever since his boyhood daj^s Lieutenant Frederick Schwat- ka, of the United States Nav}^, had taken an intense interest in the matter of the search. The vague and unsatisfactory knowledge already acquired — the individual decease of Frank- lin, determined by McClintock in 1859, the scanty records of Gore and Crozier, the hypothesis of Rae, and its confirmation by Hall, that most of the party died of starvation — all served to arouse within Schwatka a desire to make known the actual course of Franklin and the fate of his ships. Having obtained leave-of-absence from duty on the plains, he went to New York and asked permission to organize a party to search for the supposed records of Franklin's last voyage. In this he received the assistance of Judge Dal,y, President of the Geographical Society, who endorsed his appli- cation to be detailed as commander of the proposed expedition. This was readily granted by General Sherman. PRIVATE SUBSCRIPTIONS having provided the necessary provisions and equipment, Messrs. Morrison and Brown, ship-owners, kindly placed at the disposal of the expedition for transportation purposes, the "Eothen," Captain T. F. Barry. She was a stout, though small vessel, of only one hundred two tons of burden. 364 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; . The exploriixg party consisted of but five men — Lieutenant Schwatka, in command; Mr. William H. Gilder, second in com- mand; Messrs. Klut-scbak and Melms, already experienced in Arctic ice, and of Joseph E-bier-bing, the faithful "Joe," the ally and friend of Captain Hall. Before sailing. Lieutenant Schwatka received the following instructions from Mr. Morrison: "Upon your arrival at Kepulse Bay you will prepare for your inland journey b}^ building your sledges and taking such provisions as are necessary. As soon as sufficient snow is on the ground you will start for King William's Land and the Gulf of Boothia. Take daily observations, and whenever j^ou discover any error in any of the charts 3'ou will correct the same, marking thereon also any new" discoveries you may be fortunate enough to make." On the Tth of August, 1878, the "Eothen" reached Whale Point, at the entrance to Roe's Welcome. Here the explorers were soon visited by several of Hall's former Eskimo compan- ions, notably Ah-mou (the wolf), Ik-ah-mah (the fire), and Pa- pa-tew^-ah, or Too-goo-lan. In this vicinity, latitude 03° 51' north, longitude 90° 26' 15" west, Schwatka's little band spent the winter of 1878-9, inur- ing themselves to the Eskimo mode of life, as Hall had done fifteen years previous. During the winter and early spring various sledge trips were made in preparation for the summer's journey TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. On one of these Mr. Gilder visited the friendly Kin-ne-pa-toos, a tribe of Eskimos, many of whom had never before seen a white person. Lieutenant Schwatka also made a preliminary sledge journey northward. On April 1st the party, accompanied by thirteen Eskimos, men, women, and children, began the long journey northward. The sledges, burdened with two and a half tons of provisions, were drawn by forty-two dogs. Six weeks later, on a branch of Back's River, a small party • OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 365 of Ook-joo-liks were met with, and from them it was learned that some years previous a ship had been found in the ice off the west coast of Adehiide Peninsula; that from it knives, spoons, and utensils had been taken by cutting a hole through the side of the ship on a level with the ice, as the natives did not know how to get in through the doors; that they saw no bread; that books were found and left on board; and that, with the breaking up of the ice in the following summer, the water filled the ship through the hole cut in her side and caused her to sink. Somewhat later a party of Neit-chil-lis were met and the foregoing information concerning the ship was confirmed by them. The place where she sank was also pointed out. Cap- tain Hall had determined this to be in latitude 68° 30' north, longitude 99° west. Early in June the site of the camp probably occupied by Captain Crozier was reached. This was on the mainland of King William's Land. Here were found cooking stoves, ket- tles, clothing, blanliets, etc., and in AN OPEN GRAVE some canvas, gilt buttons, the object-glass of a telescope, and a quantity of blue cloth, wrapped about a body, the head of which rested upon a figured silk pocket-handkerchief remark- ably preserved. Upon a stone, at the foot of the grave, was discovered a thickly begrimed silver medal two and a half inches in diame- ter, bearing upon its obverse a bas-relief of George IV., sur- rounded by the words "Georgius IIII., D. G. Brittanniarum Kex, 1820," and upon its reverse, a laurel wreath, and the words "Awarded to John Irving, Midsummer, 1830," being enclosed by the inscription "Second Mathematical Prize, Royal Naval College." And thus was identified the grave of the gallant young Lieutenant Irving, third officer of the "Terror." Carefully were the sacred ashes gathered, and in due time sent to grate- 24 366 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLEj ful relatives in Scotland, where they were reinterred with honor, in their native soil. July was spent in as thorough an examination of the island as was possible, the party advancing about ten miles each day, and subsisting upon ducks, geese, and reindeer, the flesh being eaten almost as soon as killed. The use of so much raw meat brought on frequent attacks of diarrhoea. Numerous cairns, previously erected by white men, were found, but they contained no important relics. At Erebus Bay were found the wreck of a ship's boat, cloths, iron, and human bones. Portions of four skeletons were buried here. The ice now breaking up, the party were compelled to carry everything on their backs as they marched. Terror Bay was reached on August 3d, and on September 19th, near Gladman Point, on vSimpson's Strait, winter quarters were established. Reindeer were seen in IMMENSE HERDS. In ten minutes Too-loo-ah killed seven of the summer-fattened creatures, kissing his rifle for its good behavior. On the 30th, twenty-six were killed. By the middle of October no more were seen. On the 10th of December the party began the return jour- ney, subsisting upon salmon, a species of herring, and rein- deer. Half of the dogs died and they were obliged to defend themselves against the wolves. The winter, too, the natives said, was unusually severe, the following temperatures (Fahrenheit) being recorded: Dec. Jan. Feb. Average —50° —53° —45° Minimum —69° —71° —69° Having left the river, the party struck directly across the country for Depot Island. The region fairly SWARMED WITH WOLVES, which attacked the natives and killed some of the dogs. On OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 367 the 23d of February a pack of twenty attacked Too-loo-ah, who, however, killed one with the butt of his gun and made good his escape while the pack were fighting over and de- vouring the carcass. Thus, through snow and gale and darkness, the little band struggled on till, on March 4th, Depot Island w^as again reached. Here Schwatka was amazed to learn that Captain Barry had failed to leave supplies with the faithful Ah-mou as he had promised to do. Accordingly, the weary men were compelled to proceed to Marble Island, which was not reached till on the 21st, thus terminating the long sledge and foot journey of 3,251 statute miles, during an absence of nearly a year. At Marble Island was found the only vessel in the bay. This was the whaler "George Mary," and on her the explorers took passage, arriving home September 22, 1880. Not only in America, but in Europe, the great services which Lieutenant Schwatka had thus rendered to the cause of science and humanity received substantial and honorable reward. Wise foresight, executive ability, and undaunted iron will everywhere assert themselves in the career of this explorer. AUBO^ t)K£T*.U£D BY r-,OQtJ> yF''THFfrv 368 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTER XXXVIII. NORDENSKIOLD'S WONDERFUL VOYAGE. The discovery of the northeast passage forms one of the most interesting and instrnctive of all Arctic narratives. Its accomplishment may be said to have formed the culmination of k)no' years of study and effort within Arctic ice on the part of Prof. A. E. Nordenskiold. Indeed, as Turner truly said concerning one of his paint- ings, that it had required "all of his life" in which to execute it, so might this persevering scholar have said of his attainment of the northeast passage, that it, too, was the work of a lifetime. He, the son of a naturalist, was born in 1832, and sprang from a long line of ardent students of nature, all of whom were travelers as well. Besides, fhe}^ were philanthropists, and devotedly advo- cated the maintenance of peace among all Christian nations, and took active part in efforts for the abolition of slavery. The mother of Adolf, the subject of this sketch, possessed a fearless character and was of a respectable but by no means illustrious family. The striking and original type of character exhibited by this afterwards-celebrated son was certainly an inheritance in the strictest sense. Its originality W'as of a family likeness. Having left, for political reasons, his native Russian Fin- land, he was made State mineralogist of Sweden in 1858. In the course of the next twei:ty years he was engaged either as leader or prominent member, in no less than seven Arctic expeditions — to Spitzbergen, Greenland, Siberia, etc. Towards the expenses of five of these, Nordenskiold's warm friend, the wealthy Dr. Dickson, contributed liberally. Other private F. W. Stokes, Artist. Eivind Astrup. Dr. E. E. Vincent, Surgeon. (See Chapter XLII.) Jas. W. Davidson. Our Fallen Comrade — Eivind Astrup.* Samuel J. Entrikin, George Harlow Clark, Socond-in-C'oiiunand. The Author. Naturalist, (See Chapter XLII. *See page 101.) OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 369 subscriptions, supplemented by aid from the Swedish govern- ment, enabled many of the foremost scientists of the times to pursue their invaluable investigations in Spitzbergen, Greenland, and the adjoining seas. Says Nordenskiold: "The exploring expeditions which, during the recent de- cades, have gone out from Sweden tow^ards the north, have long ago acquired a truly national importance through the lively interest that has been taken in them everywhere, be- yond, as well as within, the fatherland; through the consider- able sums of money that have been spent on them by the State, and above all, by private persons; through the practical school they have formed for more than thirty Swedish natur- alists; through the important scientific and geograi)hical re- sults they have yielded; and through the material for scientific research, which by them has been collected for the Swedish Koyal Museum, and which has made it, in respect of Arctic natural objects, the richest in the world. To this should be added discoveries and investigations which are, or [>romise in the future to become, of practical importance; for ex- ample, the meteorological and hydrographical work of the expeditions; their comprehensive inquiries regarding the seal and whale fisheries in the Polar seas; the pointing out of the previously unsuspected richness in fish of the coasts of Spitzber- gen; the discoveries on Bear Island and Spitzbergen of consid- erable strata of coal and phosphatic minerals which are likely to be of great economic importance to neighboring countries; and, above all, the success of the two last expeditions in reach- ing the mouths of the large Siberian rivers — the Obi and Yen- isei — navigable to the confines of China, whereby a problem in navigation, many centuries old, has at last been solved." And who would gainsay the testimony of this modest schol- ar who had himself examined geologically and mineralogic- ally more than one thousand miles of rock-section in Spitz- bergen alone? In 1868, w^hen off the north coast of Spitzbergen, near the Seven Sister Islands, endeavoring to reach the North Pole, Nordenskiold wrote: "On the way w^e had in several places 370 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE. met ice that was black with stones, gravel, and earth, which would seem to indicate the existence of land still farther north." Again he says: "After my return from the voyage of 1876 — to Siberia — I came to the conclusion that on the ground of the experience thereby gained, and of the knowledge which, under the light of that experience, it was possible to obtain from old, espe- cially from Kussian explorations of the north coast of Asia, I was warranted in asserting that the open, navigable water, which, two years in succession had carried me across the Kara Sea — formerly of so bad repute — to the mouth of the Yenisei, extended, in all probability, as far as Bering's Strait, and that a circumnavigation of the Old World was thus within the bounds of possibility." At length, under the chief patronage of King Oscar II., Dr. Dickson and Mr. Sibiriakoff, wealthy merchants, he sailed from Tromsoe, Norway, on the voyage which was destined to make him world-renowned. The expedition vessel was the staunch German whaling- steamer "VEGA," of 357 tons gross burden. She had been equipped and manned by the state at an expense of less than |9,500, and carried a crew of seventeen men, besides the three officers. Other ex- penses were borne by individuals. She was accompanied as far as the Lena and Yenisei rivers by three depot ships which were despatched by Mr. Sibiriakoff at an expense additional to his own general share. This small Arctic fleet passed the Strait of Nova Zembla near the close of July, and anchored on the 30tli in Yugor Strait, the narrow channel separating the Island of Waigat from the northeast coast of Russia. Here intercourse was held with the Samoyed Eskimos, from whom goose and swan feath- ers, skins, furs, etc., were obtained in exchange for corn and salt. Proceeding eastward, the Kara Sea was found calm and OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 371 comparatively free of ice. In three days the "Vega" reached Port Dickson, on Dickson Ishind, at the mouth of the Yenisei. From this point two of the transports returned. On the 10th of August the ''Vega" and the remaining pro- vision-ship left Port Dickson and passed between Taimur Island and the peninsula of the same name. Four days were sj)ent in examining the fauna and flora of the region, after which progress was made to Cape Chel-yus-kin, and that the northernmost point of the eastern continent, latitude 77° 37', was not rounded without great difficulty till on the 19th of August. The extremity of the cape was found to consist of slate-strata, crossed by great veins of quartz. The interior of the country consisted of gentle slopes, low plains of clay, some of which were bare, while others were covered with grasses, mosses, and lichens. The rocks con- sisted of vertical layers of slate without fossils, but were rich in pyrites. Of animation there were seen sandpipers, barnacle geese, gulls, kittiwakes, eider-ducks, a loon, a walrus, several seals, a bear, two shoals of the white whale, and traces of the rein- deer and lemming. The dredge yielded an abundance of the lower forms of life, and some algae. Of insects there were the spring-tail, a few flies, and a beetle. Having left the cape, the "Vega" was driven by favoring northwest breezes, through open water, in a southeasterly di- rection to the mouth of the Lena Eiver. Here the last depot ship, the "Lena," left the "Vega" and steamed up the stream whose name she bore, to Yakutsk, 800 miles distant. Being the first ocean-steamer to penetrate so far inland, she was greeted with great joy. Meanwhile, the "Vega" pushed toward the Liakoff Islands, but owing to thick ice and shallow water the effort to land was relinquished. Advancing farther eastward, Serdze Kamen, situated only 100 miles short of Bering's Strait, was reached on the 28th 372 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; of September. Here the "Vega" was firmly beset on this date and at once established herself in winter-quarters. But for the delay in endeavoring to reach the Liakoff Islands, she would doubtless have completed the voyage in the same season. The winter at Serd-ze Kamen passed uneventfully, but much information was derived concerning the Chook-chee Es- kimos, and in making scientific observations, for which purpose an observatory was erected on shore. Throughout the cold season the men were able to keep themselves Avarm in woolen jackets and woven jerseys. The sea-water was found to vary in a single day from 28° to 32°. The natives were found to divide themselves naturally into two classes: the coast and inland Chook-chees, the former de- pending upon the dog as their most faithful ally, the latter upon the reindeer. In their dealings with the ship's company they were found to be strictly honest, not even disturbing the provisions placed on shore. It was learned that thej^ carried on trade with the Alaskans. At length, freed from the ice on the 18th of June, 1879, the "Vega" two days later passed East Cape on her way down Bering's Strait, and cast anchor in the Bay of San Lorenzo, an inlet of an island inhabited by a mixed population of Alas- kans, Chook-chees, and Samoyeds. From the 22d to the 26th of July, the "Vega" remained at Port Clarence, Alaska. Having arrived at Yokohama on the 2d of August, she then proceeded via the Suez Canal to Naples. This city was reached February 14, 1880. From this date till their joyous entry into the Bay of Stockholm, on the 24th of April, the returning explorers were feted and welcomed at every point where anchor was cast, as never before men had been honored. The ovations were expressive of a truly international enthusiasm over the accomplishment of one of the grandest undertakings of humanity. That the chief patrons of the expedition, viz., the generous and public-spirited King of Sweden and Norway, Oscar II., OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 373 Dr. Dickson, and Mr. Sibiriakoff, deserve unstinted praise for their liberality of mind, and heart, and purse an admiring world will ever record. But that the modest and persevering geologist and miner- alogist. Baron Adolf E. Nordenskiold and his faithful com- panions merit a world's profoundest gratitude no one will deny. THE BEST f ABT OF A SLEDGE JOnRKEY. 374 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; CHAPTEK XXXIX. DE LONG'S GALLANT STRUGGLE. In the pages of history there is no record more noble and inspiring than that of George Washington De Long. Beared of strict, yet kind and solicitous Huguenot parents, he early imbibed the frugality, energy, and Christian fervor of those who begat him. His strong will and passion to overcome difficulties urged him irresistibly onward in the pursuit of any- thing that he undertook. Keturning from the search of the "Polaris" in 1873, when, as we have already seen, he commanded the "Juniata," he ap- pears to have had his heart set as firml}^ on the polar problem as had been that of the lamented Hall. Acting upon the sug- gestion of Mr. Grinnell he at once wrote to Mr. James Gordon Bennett, then in Paris, and solicited financial "backing." The reply was both courteous and encouraging. It was, however, the 8th of July, 1879, before Mr. Bennett's liberality had made all necessary arrangements and the expe- dition, in command of Lieutenant-Commander DeLong, steamed away from San Francisco and headed toward Bering Strait. The vessel selected for this voyage was the "Pandora," formerly owned by Sir Allen Young, who had accompanied McClintock in his search for Franklin in 1857-9. In her, this eminent English navigator had made, in 1875, an Arctic voyage through Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait to Peel Sound. After her purchase by Mr. Bennett in 1878, she was rechris- tened the "JEANNETTE" and refitted for Arctic service. Captain DeLong's chief assistants were: Lieutenant C. W. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 375 Chipp, the companion of his voyage on the "Juniata," and now his executive officer; George W. Melville, U. S. N., chief engin- eer; Dr. James M. Ambler, U. S. N.; Mr. Jerome J. Collins, meteorologist; Mr. II. L. Newcomb, naturalist, and Mr. William Dunbar, ice pilot. The ice quartermaster was Mr. Nindemann, one of those who had accompanied Captain Tyson on his mar- velous drift on the ice-floe after their separation from the "Polaris," and was, therefore, one of those for whom Captain DeLong had gone in search in 1873. Strange, indeed, that ten years later it should be Ninde- mann's fortune to search for DeLong, as will appear hereafter. It is also of interest to remark that a friend of the expedi- tion sent to Captain DeLong a likeness of Captain Hall and a bit of the "Polaris" flag, to be carried to the North Pole. Provisioned for three years, the "Jeannette" steamed from San Francisco to St, Michael's, Alaska, whence, taking on board forty fine dogs, sledges, a large quantity of fur garments, other Arctic necessaries, and two native assistants, the Alexey and Aneguin of our narrative, she proceeded to St. Lawrence Bay, on the Asiatic side. Upon leaving the bay on the evening of August 27th, De- Long sent the following despatch to the Honorable Secretary of the Navy: "Arrived 25th; leave for Serdze Kamen to-night. All well. Natives report Nordenskiold passed south three months ago, stopping here one day, having wintered at Kol- yu-chin Ba}^ Mentioned one officer, a Russian, who spoke the native language, as named 'Charpish,' possibly Nordquist, of the Russian navy, accompanying Nordenskiold, Avho said the ship was going home. Leave here to verify account along the coast. Hope to reach Wrangell Land this season." Rounding East Cape twenty hours later, Serdze Kamen was reached at 5 p. m. of the 29th. Here papers, and a letter ad- dressed to the Secretary of the Navy, were deposited. Tlies(% by means of the whaling-vessels which annually visit these waters, reached their destination thirteen months later. Here, too, DeLong observed the natives to be as hospitable as they Were "stalwart and handsome." Some of the men also saw 376 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; the winter-quarters of the "Vega," which had left there about a month previous. Having reached Kol-^^u-chin Bay on the 1st, the "Jeannette" headed northwestward toward Herald Island and Wrangell Land. The former, we have noted in previous pages, had been discovered, and the latter rediscovered, by Captain Kellett, in the brig "Herald," in 1849. On this day, too, was sighted Kolyuchin, or Burney Island, on which Wrangell had landed in 1823. On the next day, in about latitude 70° 52' north, longitude 174° west, the American whaler "Sea Breeze," Captain Barnes, was seen. She was again sighted several times on the 3d. Herald Island came into view on the 4th, and toward this the "Jeannette," having now fairly entered the pack, endeav- ored to push her way. For there was DeLong "hoping and praying to be able to get the ship to make winter-quarters." Sunday, September 7th, was "a day of complete rest in every respect." The commander, at 10 a. m., mustered the crew, read the Articles of War, and held divine service. At 12 m. got soundings in forty fathoms of blue mud. As the vessel drifted almost imperceptibly in the ice, the dogs were turned loose during the day-time for exercise. At night bear-traps w^ere also set, and although bear tracks were seen about them, none of the creatures were caught. Some of the dogs becoming entrapped and injured instead, the traps were taken in. On the 13th, Engineer Melville, Ice Pilot Dunbar, and Alexey, with a sledge and dogs, attempted to reach Herald Island, while Captain DeLong and Dr. Ambler sought for suitable ice from which to melt water for the ship's use, the sea-ice being salt and unserviceable, except after all too ex- pensive distillation. Since icebergs, those mere fragments of fresh water-producing glaciers and extensive ice mantles of northern land elevations are not to be found in the Bering Strait region, the problem was a vital one to them. Finally, a large lump of ice on end on a floe was secured, and this, tested by means of nitrate of silver, showing the presence of but from OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 377 three to five grains of chlorine to a gallon of Avater, a tolerable supply was obtained. On the next da}^ the party sent toward Herald Island returned, having been stopped by open water extending about five miles from shore. The coast was high and rocky, with great ridges running down a nearly perpendicular face. No driftwood was seen, but many bear tracks and a raven were observed. A seal shot by Alexey was brought to the ship. At noon on the next day the "Jeannette's" position was 71° 46' north, 175° 36' west, from which it appeared that she had been drifting northwest with the ice for the preceding six days at a rate of two and a half miles a day. At the same time, the young seal, having been well cooked, was eaten and unan- imously pronounced equal to rabbit. A few days later the bear-traps were again set, with the entrails of the seal, and a large male bear was caught. He was accompanied by a female bear who would not desert him, but, by running to and from him, coaxed him on in his efforts to drag the trap forward, and which he did do for about three and a half miles. When overtaken b^^ the men both bears rose on their hind legs and howled dolefully till the Winches- ters and the Remingtons of Ohipp, Dunbar, Melville, and De- Long brought them down. The male weighed 580 pounds, the female 422 pounds. Both were photographed by Mr. Col- lins. Mr. Newcomb also added several ivory gulls to his natural historj^ collection. Drifting northward at from three and a half to five miles a day, the 24th of September found the "Jeannette" quite out of sight of Herald Island, in the center of a large floe strong- enough to prevent the nipping of the ship. Says DeLong: "A mile from the ship in any direction new ice six inches thick is piled up in tables from six to twenty feet in height by the coming together of floes. One day we find large spaces of water, the next day we find the spaces narrowing, and the third da}^ the spaces are closed and slabs of new ice six inches thick are pil^d up on end like a confused fence, six, twelve, and eighteen feet high." 378 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Of life, ail occasional gull and the products of the dredge were all that could be seen. On the 28th, however, Newcomb and Alexey shot two female walruses, each weighing 1,000 l)ouiids; one was heav}^ with her young, the foetus and skin being saved as natural history specimens. The flesh afforded much dog food. October opened with a terrific gale of wind and snow. At noon on the 3d, soundings gave a depth of twenty-four and a half fathoms, with blue mud and dark gravel. The dredge brought up some delicate white coral — a circumstance that bespoke either a natural growth or a warm current from the south. On the same day Herald Island reappeared in the southwest, the "Jeannette^' having drifted southward on the third side of the triangle represented on the track chart, and at a speed of ten miles a day for three days. In the afternoon of this day Mr. Newcomb, Aneguin and Alexey killed another female bear weighing about 500 pounds, thus adding greatly to the ship's larder. On the 6th the indefatigable Newcomb shot twenty-eight ducks, and on the next day a "Koss's gull" — a most valuable prize and rare beyond calculation, there being but one — at the Museum in Mainz — in the world. On the ITtli Nindemann and Aneguin each added a seal, making seven hanging in the rigging, and insuring fresh meat for as many dinners. On the following day Ah Sam, the cook, and a most valuable man otherwise, "asked for a gun," says DeLong, " ^to go shoot a seal.' " * * * "lu about an hour he returned, the most astonished and startled Chinaman out of China. At his first shot the gun had burst, tearing up the barrel, fortunately near the muzzle, so that he received no harm; but his mental demoralization was complete. The probability is he let the muzzle slip in the snow at some time, and the end of the bore got choked; hence the bursting." On the 28th Lieutenant Danenhower found the ship's posi- tion to be in latitude 71° 57' north, longitude 177° 51' west. Land appeared in the south-southwest, w^hich DeLong believed to be that seen by Captain Long in 1867 (Wrangell Land.) Com- OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 379 mander DeLong no longer believed it to be a continent, but either an island or an archipelago. Oh the 29th "Dandy," or "Bingo," escaped from his harness when in the team, much to t]ie disgust of the other dogs, who gave pursuit. "Bom bye, other dogs him plenty^ whip" (for his desertion) said the driver, Alexe^^ Three or four hours later, after the return of the team, they caught Bingo at a safe distance from the vessel and chewed him so badly that he died within ten minutes after being carried on board. Throughout October several seals and walruses were se- cured, and "walrus sausage" was served as a new and "rare good thing." Both DeLong and Chipp agreed that bear and seal meat well cooked was not to be despised. Certainly, with an abundance of fuel, this may be accomplished. On November 11th DeLong records: "A day of great anx- ietj. * * * The grinding and crushing flow of ice to the westward had again commenced, and the jamming of large pieces from time to time, splintering our floe, caused breaks and upheavals to within about seventy-five feet of the ship. "The ship groaned and creaked at every pressure until I thought the next would break her adrift. The pressure was tremendous, and the noise was not calculated to calm one's mind. I know of no sound on shore than can be compared to it. A rumble, a shriek, a groan and a crash of a falling house all combined might serve to convey an idea of the noise with w^hich this motion of ice-floes is accompanied. Great masses, from fifteen to twenty-five feet in height when up-ended, are sliding along at various angles of elevation and jam, and be- tween and among them are large and confused masses of debris, like a marble yard adrift." On the 30th he writes: "I take leave of the month of November without the slightest regret. It has been a month of gales, ice-pressures and discom- forts, mental and physical. * * * j gay good-by to Novem- ber, and invoke God's blessing on our ship and ourselves." In December the general health of all was excellent. Each day the men exercised without the ship for two hours. The dogs, in sleeping on the snow, frequently became frozen fast 380 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; and had to be dug loose. Bear and fox tracks were frequently discovered and a heap of codfish bones was picked up two miles from the ship. They were probably the remains of a fiah caught either by a bear or a seal. A distiller, which consumed two pounds of coal for every gallon of water, was also made and used, and yielded forty gallons of water each day. A grand Christmas dinner brought to a close the leading events of the gloomy month. The New Year, however, came in with much cheer. The ship's bell was rung rapidly and the crew, assembling on deck, gave "three cheers for the 'Jeannette.' " After a capital dinner at 3 p. m., all assembled at 8:30 in the deck-house and enjoyed an entertainment. DeLong sa^^s: "Entering, we found a nice little stage erected with drop-curtains, foot-lights, etc., and tastily decorated with flags. The performance commenced with a minstrel variety, jokes and conundrums sandwiching in with the songs. One conundrum was excellent (pointing to one of the stanchions of the deck-house): 'Why is that stanchion like Mr. James Gordon Bennett? Because it sup- ports the house.' Sweetman's songs were very good, and Kuehne's violin solo was fine indeed, especially when one takes into consideration the fact that a seaman's life does not serve to render the fingers supple and delicate. Mr. Cole gave us a jig with all the gravity of a judge. One of the features of the evening was a prologue, composed by Mr. Collins, in w hich each one of the crew was made the subject of a rhyme in turn. Alexey and Aneguin gave us native dances, and the latter an imitation of a song sung by our Chinamen. The Chinamen gave us their native song, and a sham fight with knives and a pole, winding up by imitating with much contempt Alexey's and Aneguin's manner of singing and dancing." January, however, passed heavily away, with much ice- movement, causing the leaking of the ship and necessitating the working of the pumps. Gigantic ice-blocks pitched and rolled as though under control of magic. The "Jeannette" was in an amphitheater of ice about five-eighths of a mile in diam- eter and this circle was gradually decreasing in size, as huge OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 381 masses of whiteness approached the vessel in all directions, so that had she been two hundred yards in any other position she must have been instantly destroyed. This circle gradually contracted to within a few hundred feet of the ship and then stopped — "stopping," as Melville adds, "our prayers," also. Messrs. Dunbar and Sweetman were in ill health, while Lieu- tenant Danenhower suffered constantly from inflammation of the left eye, making necessary a painful operation by Dr. Ambler, concerning which the Captain says: "I hardly know which to admire the most, the skill and celerity of the surgeou, or the nerve and endurance of Danenhower." On the 26th the sun returned, after an absence of seventy-one days. January ended and February began, with the pumps going steadily. On the first of the new month a white Arctic fox was chased onto the gang-plank by the dogs. It was shot by Alexey. In its stomach was found nothing but lemmings' tails. Imme- diately afterward Lieutenant Ohipp killed a bear weighing about 400 pounds. The stomach contained nothing Avhatever. On the next day another of these creatures attempted to get on board the vessel, but was shot by Mr. Dunbar. It weighed 900 pounds and measured eight feet one inch in length. Noth- ing save a few slate-like stones was found in its stomach. WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY falling on Sunday, its celebration was held on the 23d. At sunrise the "Jeannette" was dressed with American ensigns at the mast-head and flag-staff and the Union Jack forward. On the last day of February DeLong wrote: "The men are bright and cheerful, surveying with much complacency and evident gratification the pumping of the ship by steam instead of hand power. Our Chinese cook and steward are as impas- sable and impenetrable in this cold weather as if we were enjoying a tropical spring." Living happily by themselves in the cook-house they passed the time singing songs or playing cards, with no concern for either past or future. "Our two natives, Alexey and Aneguin, thrive wonderfully well. Occa- sionally they ^think plenty' about St. Michael's, being a little "35 382 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; homesick, but generally they are bright and happy. * * * They are naturally and intuitively the most polite men I have met outside of cultivated society. * * * Upon meeting an officer first in the morning, a touch of the cap and a good-morn- ing are immediately tendered. If you do or say anything for them that they see or hear, ^Thank you' is immediately your repl}^ If you thank them, 'You are welcome' is ready. And all this in a manly, straightforward way, without any cringing or eye serving." On March 3d some shells and a piece of driftwood resemb- ling birch were brought in. In December a piece of wood and a print of a moccasin or sealskin boot on a single piece of ice had also been seen at some distance from the ship. They had undoubtedly come from some Siberian River. The advance of March brought the appearance of more game. On the 12th the track of a wolf was seen. Two days later three species of drift-wood and some stones and sponges were found. The shells had probably been dug up from the bottom of the sea and left on the ice. On the 16th Alexey and Aneguin shot a she-bear and on the 20th Alexey shot an im- mense walrus, so large that four men and thirty dogs could not drag him over the ice. Nindemann estimated his weight at 2,800 pounds. Laud (WrangelFs) was seen in the southwest several times during the month. The pumps were kept continually at work. Ice disturb- ances and resulting pressure on the ship kept all in a state of anxiet}^ Great, confused masses of ice thirtj^ or forty feet high were piled up about the vessel. It was observed that the ice sank deeper in winter than in summer, for then, being like flint in hardness and closeness, it possessed greater density, causing it to sink lower than in iVu- gust or September, when it was honey-combed and softened by the sun* The position of the ship on the last day of the month was 72° 36' north, by 178° 7' west — almost the same as on Novem- ber 30th. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 383 On the 1st of April the dogs and men killed a fine large bear weighing 675 pounds. The fight was a lively one, about twenty dogs surrounding and worrying the creature, w^hile a half dozen would bite it and make the fur fly. On the 9th a raven, the first bird of the season, suddenly appeared and as quickly vanished. On the 15th, for breakfast, the tables were served with bear meat sausage balls minced with pork and powdered herbs. On this day two snow-bunt- ings alighted near the ship. At this time the doge were observed to be "as fat as dump- lings and as lazy as human beings in the tropics." The health of the men was excellent. The scale of food containing much fresh bread, wdth canned vegetables, milk, butter, sixty pounds of fresh potatoes every week, and much lime juice, contributed largely to this. ON SUNDAYS ship inspection and divine services were regularly followed by a dinner Avhich all held in pleasant anticipation. The bill of fare for the winter consisted of soup, roast seal or roast bear with cranberry sauce, macaroni, potatoes, pickles, bread, pud- ding, or "duff," coffee and chocolate, and a glass either of ale, porter or sherry. On the 18th of April the "Jeannette" was in latitude 72° 45' 46"north, longitude 178° 16' west. On the next day Iversen found on the ice, a mile and a half from the ship, seven pieces of wood, a piece of birch bark, a small leaf, and a bunch of vegetable matter. On the 20th a w^alrus was cut open and therein was found a j^art of a young seal, from which it would appear that the animal is omnivorous. In the course of the remainder of the month a raven, a dull-colored bird, and a young bear were seen. A wind-mill having been rigged up on the ship, it assisted in pumping. During the month the ship had drifted, to and fro, 84.2 miles; in a straight line, 46 miles northwest. On the last day a flock of about twenty eider ducks were observed flying westward. On the 8th of May Captain DeLong thus writes: "The weather is gloomy, depressing, and disagreeable. Velocities 384 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POI^B; ranging from ten to twenty-three miles drive the snow from the face of the floe in clouds. * * * Here and there along- side the ship a little white lump indicates that there is a dog beneath it, and even the regular and irregular dog fights are discontinued until the weather gets clearer and friend can be distinguished from foe. * * * As if by concerted plan one and two will spring on three, roll him over and seemingly tear him in pieces. Fortunately the wool is so long and thick that an attacidng dog gets his mouth full of hair before his front teeth reach the flesh. * * * The vulnerable places are the ears and the bell}^ I have seen an attacked dog run, and, lying on his stomach, shove his head into a snow bank with impunity while his foes were choking over the hair they tore out of his back. a* * * Socldenly dog three will turn on dog two and be promptly aided by dog one, his previous foe. By this time the whole pack has gathered as if by magic, and a free and in- discriminate fight occurs. "They divide up into little gangs of three or four, and in these friendly cliques they also fight. * * * It is a com- mon occurrence to see a dog on the blaQk-list, a quarter of a mile from the ship, all alone and afraid to come in until his time is up. He then approaches fawningly, wagging his tail deprecatingly to become reconciled, and is either welcomed by wagging tails or snarling teeth, in which latter case he retires for another spell. * * * They make no demonstration at any dog singly, or a team, going away, except the most doleful howling, and should he or they venture to return, the remainder of the pack lie in wait for the one or more returning. If a team comes in, a rough and tumble fight ensues and requires two or three men to stop it. As soon as the harness is off they are all smooth and quiet again, the cliques reassembling and moving off to their usual haunts. * * * "Their cunning is extraordinary. Going out the other night at twelve for METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, about a dozeri of them came around me in great excitement Etah Eskimos : Nook-tah and My-ouk. View at Cape York— In- verted Iceberg in the Distance. (See Chapters XXVllI., XXXiV. and XLIl.) 6ift, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 385 about something or other. Looking around for a cause, I ob- served a good-sized dog head first in a barrel at an angle, with only his tail and flanks sticking out. He had gone in for some walrus meat at the bottom, and no dog had driven him out, because his stern view was not recognizable as belonging to a bully or not. * * * i drove him out, when half the gang recognized him as no great fighter, pitched into him, while the other half fought among themselves for the entry into the bar- rel. For fear of catching a Tartar the^^ had waited for some one to solve the conundrum, 'Who is in the barrel?' " As the "Jeannette" continued to drift during the month of May, numerous flocks of birds and several bears were seen, one of the bears weighing nearly 800 pounds. The events of June were few and followed wearily in suc- cession. One of the seamen showed signs of insanity; rain fell for a few moments on the 6th and was esteemed "a luxury;'* on the last day the first punishment of the cruise was inflicted, one of the seamen being compelled to assume "watch and watch for twenty-four hours in the fire-room, for profane and abusive language to a ship-mate." On this day the vessel, having drifted to the southeast — backwards — was in latitude 72° 19' 41" north, longitude 178° 27' 30" east. About forty seals and five Eoss's gulls were secured during the month. They now had seven of the latter. On the 3d of July the last of the bear meat, "that good and solid food," was eaten. The record of Sunday, July 4th, was really of Monday, July 5th, as the "Jeannette" had crossed the 180th meridian. It being the first Sunday in the month, the Articles of War and general muster preceded ship inspection and divine service. On the next day the ANNIVERSARY OP AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE was celebrated by dressing the ship with ensigns at the mast head and signals in a rain-bow. The latitude then was 73° 20' 7" north, the longitude being unattainable owing to thick fog and mist. When hauled down the flags were covered with rime and frost. 386 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; Past the middle of the month De Loug almost despairingly writes: "See-saw, see-saw northwest with a southeast wind, and then southeast with a northwest wind, and the same result with any other two succeeding winds. * * * a bear in a trap, a bird in a cage, a ship in the ice, are alike held in bondage sharp and galling. * * * job is recorded to have had many trials and tribulations which he bore with wonderful pa- tience; but so far as is known he was never caught in pack-ice and drifted south and w^est with west winds." And a few days later: "Seal at dinner, with macaroni, tomatoes, etc., etc., as per bill of fare, and a glass of sherry with our corn starch pud- ding. As far as food goes, we are in luxury." On the same day was killed their first ook-sook (Pho-ca bar- ba-ta, or bearded seal). She was eight feet long. Her flesh was used for dog food and the thick skin for boot soles. The 29th was rendered memorable b}^ their again arriving at the 180th meridian, which line was previously crossed on the 5th of May. On August 2d their location was latitude 73° 20', longitude 178° 36' west, a change of over twenty-three and a half miles, or nearly seven miles a day, to the northeast. By the gradual melting of the snow and ice, shells, pieces of sponge and bits of wood were revealed. On the 3d, between 5 and 8 o'clock p. m., a strong odor of burning brush-wood filled the air and was noticed by every one save DeLong, who was suffering at the time of 'a severe cold in the head. A decided haze was also apparent from G to 10 p. m. On the 13th there was a rainbow at 10 p. m. and sunset oc- curred twenty minutes later. On this day the "Jeannette" began again to drift northwest. On the 18th a sounding gave a depth of 44 fathoms, with mud, gravel, and fine white sand. On the next day Mr. Dunbar, while on the ice with Alexey, was surprised by "the biggest bear he had ever seen — A REGULAR BUSTER!" Dunbar crouched down, whereupon Alexey fired and dropped the monster! Bruin, however, again spx'ang to his feet and OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 387 made off pumpiug blood through a hole in his side as he ran. Fortunately, Nindemann and Bartlett met and despatched the wounded animal, which was found to be only a small one after all, showing that Mr. Dunbar had been very greatly sur- prised indeed. Four days later, when Commander DeLong was celebrating his thirty-sixth birthday by a quiet scull in his boat through a narrow lane of water about 500 yards from the ship, he chanced to look over his shoulder, and there, to his astonish- ment, he observed a bear not 100 feet distant. To run was impossible — for alternations of ice and water cut off quick retreat to the ship. Looking the bear out of countenance w^as romantic, but impracticable — for he soon recovered his aston- ishment and advanced upon DeLong, who then yelled, "On board ship there! a bear! a bear!" But no answer came. Bruin halted, but so close had he approached that the puzzled commander could distinctly see where the short hair ended at the edge of his bearship's "beautiful black nose." Again De Long called aloud, "On board ship there!" and somebody re- plied, "Hal-loa!" "A bear! a bear!" yelled De Long, and at the same time elevated an oar to fend off Bruin's attack should he advance farther. At that instant a string of dogs and men rushed round the stern of the vessel, and the bear, gazing at them a moment, took the hint and made off, leaving De Long to reflect upon a good lesson, "Never to go away from the ship without a rifle." In the afternoon of the 26th another bear was killed and scarcely was it buried in the snow and ice than a mother bear and two nearly grown cubs appeared. The dogs being fed on the port bow were unmindful of their approach. Silence reigned. Mrs. Bruin led the van. Slowly and deliberatel}', head to the wind, neck stretched out like that of a cow, nose describing graceful curves at each step, she fell quietly into the water lanes and swam across, looking back to encourage her offspring to follow. At signal ten rifles were fired. Down went the big bear, one of the cubs jerking and shaking its foot, indicating that it had been struck. The young ones 388 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; closed in on the mother, and the firing continued until the smoke hid them. Away went the dogs and the men in pursuit, following the blood-stained tracks. The mother bear, though severely hurt, pushed her young before her, nosing them into the water before leaving the ice herself, and thus covered their retreat until the pursuers were obliged to abandon the chase by reason of the too numerous leads. When in pursuit of these bears Lieutenant De Long and Dr. Ambler came to a locality covered with the "crimson-col- ored snow" for quite a space. The microscope revealed in it a pink-colored marine algae, probably a species of protococcus. On August 30th Jupiter and Aldebaran were in plain view. This was the first appearance of any of the stars since in the spring, and on the next da^^, as if to give warning of the near approach of winter, an aurora appeared as a faint tremulous arch. On the 1st of September the vessel righted herself once more to an even keel, and numerous flocks of birds (principally phalatropes) passed to the southwest as. if coming from some land to the northeast. The 5th was the first anniversary of the entrance of the ship into the ice-pack, and she was but 150 miles northwestward of that point. On the 9th Mr. Dun- bar brought to the ship a quantity of "crimson snow." On the 14th De Long writes: "At 8 p. m. the moon was rising on the southern horizon, and very much distorted by refraction. It seemed of immense size four days before full moon, and re- minded one of a large city burning. Auroral flashes shot up from the eastern horizon toward the zenith, ^nd, with the many stars visible, made a beautiful scene. At midnight, on going- out to make the meteorological observation, I was considerably startled. South-southeast of the ship, right ahead, the sky at the horizon was lighted up as by a coming daylight, the clear, bright light being very marked. I knew, of course, it must be an auroral display, but while I looked, a brilliant green, and then a brilliant red color spread all over it, very much as dif- ferent colored lights are made to shine on a stage in spectacu- lar pieces. As a scenic effect it was grand indeed. The OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 389 changes were vivid and instantaneous, and had we been in open water I should have declared that the occurrence was due to signal lights from a ship." On the 28th the hoodlum dog ; Prince, Tom, and Jim brought to bay a large bear, which was shot by Mr. Dunbar. It weighed before being dressed 9434 pounds. October passed away very uneventfully, the capture of a single fat white fox in a trap on the 26th being about the onl}^ new thing to occur. On the 1st of November the winter routine was again be- gun. On the 6th the sun rose at 11:30, having about two of his diameters above the horizon at noon, and set a half hour later, to be absent — for that latitude — about ninety days. Three days later, however, the sun again seemed to rise at noon, a portion of his disc being' visible from 11 a. m. to 1 p. m. In reality he was 52' below the horizon at noon and his reappear- ance was of course due to extraordinary refraction. This was •repeated on the next day, the sun seeming to be well above the horizon at noon. On the 14th Nindemann got a seal in which was a beautiful embryo in many respects resembling a puppy, except for the flippers. The month was one of great monoton}' . With the exception of the small party that had gone ashore at Kol-,yu-chin Ba^^, none had been on land for nearly fifteen months. They had, as De Long thought, become RECEIVERS OF MAGNETISM without proper earths in which to allow it to escape. Their rest became broken and unnatural, those turning in at 10 p. m. often lying awake till 3 a. m. De Long himself being on watch till midnight, never turned in till 1 o'clock, and rarely got to sleep till 3:30 a. m. Observation on the last day of November showed the vessel to be in latitude 74°, longitude 178° 15' east, after drifting rap- idly to the northwest twenty-two miles in the last two days. On the 2d of December their monotonous life was relieved 390 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; by the killing of a bear 8 feet 3-^- inches in length and weighing 800 pounds. Observation on the 11th showed that the vessel had again drifted considerably to the southeast. At intervals during the day loud reports like the discharge of heavy guns were heard, and the ship was much jarred by them. They were probably caused by the splitting of heavy ice contracting with the in- tense cold. On the 22d, although the sun had reached its greatest south- ern declination and had therefore begun to return, there was not noticeable any difference in the amount of twilight. Christmas Eve and the last day of the year 1880 were cele- brated with minstrel entertainments. On Christmas Day a fine dinner was served and all were for the time being made cheerful. The entertainment given on the last day of the year closed by all singing the "STAR SPANGLED BANNER" and a short address b}' the commander, in which he, among other things, stated that during the past sixteen months they had drifted 1,300 miles, although they were only 220 miles -northwest of where they were when first beset; that they had pumped a leaking ship for a year and kept her habitable; that the}^ then faced the future with a firm hope of doing something worthy of themselves, of James Gordon Bennett and of the flag that floated above them and that, with the blessing of God, they would return to their homes with pardonable pride. On his usual watch Captain De Long was kept company on New Year's Eve by Melville and Dunbar. At midnight, after the men had sung a verse and the chorus from "MARCHING THROUGH GEORGIA," eight bells for the old year were struck, three cheers for the ship given, and eight bells more were struck for the new 3^ear. Thus was ushered in on board the United States steamer "Jeannette" the year 1881, in latitude 73° 48' north, longitude 177° 32' east. OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 391 On the 5tb of February the suu reappeared at noon, in lati- tude 74° 49' north, longitude 171° 49' east. It should be noted here that the dogs, having been well fed and housed, had passed through two Arctic winters in good condition. Only a few had died from the effects of sharp pieces of bones cutting through the intestines. One had died in the course of the tirst winter from having swallowed a large wad of oakum. On the 10th of February the little Russian dog passed about eight feet of tapeworm, which was dul}^ bottled as a natural history specimen. On the 18th a small bear was killed by the dogs. WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY was again celebrated north of the Arctic Circle by placing the ensigns upon the mast head and flag-staff, and the Jack forward. On March 6th a she-bear was killed after a hard fight. In the melee "Plug-ugly" was killed by a glancing rifle bullet; Prince got off with bad cuts in his back and fore-shoulder; Tom, with a long gash on his rump; Wolf, one of the three "hood-lums," with a long cut from rump to stomach; Bingo, with two side gashes clear to the intestines; one of Alexey's dogs, with a claw gash in his throat; Snoozer, with a cut from cheek to mouth; Smike, with two bad gashes, etc. About this time the Chinamen amused themselves flying kites made in shape like birds, flies, etc. On the 20th the sun crossed the line coming north and showed the ship's latitude to be 75° 17' north. Eight days later the position of the "Jeannette" was 350 miles northwest of Herald Island. Nearlj^ a month later, on the 19th of April, the Chinamen and two dogs followed a bear until, finally, the men gave up the pursuit. Not until nearly a week later did the dogs re- turn, exhausted from their long absence. On the 27th some diatoms of the order cos-cin-o-dis-cus were obtained, and being evidently of river origin, the ship's posi- 392 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; tion was supposed to be within the area of the deposit from the Ko-ly-ma. On the 4th of May a flock of ten wild geese and some ducks were seen flying west. On the next day a bear weighing 790 pounds was killed. Again, on the 14th, was a flock of dncks seen flying west. And, two days later, in the same direction, was discovered LAND. It w^as first seen by Mr. Dunbar, when aloft. The ship was then in latitude 76° 43' 20" north, longitude 161° 53' 45" east— the first seen since March 24, 1880. Four days later appear- ances of another island a little farther west were noted, and four days still later a separate island was made out. The progress of the vessel thus far during the new year was satis- factory, namely, 310 miles northwest. The nearer, more eastern and first-discovered land was named Jeannette Island; the other, Henrietta Island, in honor of Mr. Bennett's mother. On the last day of May Captain De Long despatched Mr. Melville, with Messrs. Dunbar, Nindemann, Ericksen, Bartlett, and Sharvell, to the latter, which was computed to be about twelve miles distant. "My anxiety," says De Long, "will be endless and unremitting until I get all hands under my wings again; and I pray God so to aid them and guide us that no mis- hap may occur." On the next day it was discovered by the doctor that at least six of the men were suffering from the effects of lead- poisoning, engendered probably by the long-continued use of canned tomatoes, which showed traces of the poison, the acid of the fruit having worked chemically upon the solder of the cans. On June 5th Melville's party returned. They landed on the island on Thursday, June 2d (June 3d, true time), hoisted the silk flag, and took possession of it in the name of THE GREAT JEHOVAH AND THE UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. Upon it they erected a cairn in which was deposited a record which had been sent with them by Captain De Long. The OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 393 island was found to be a desolate rock, upon which rests a snow-cap, which feeds several discharging glaciers on its east face, Dovekies, or black guillemots, nesting on the precipitous rocks, were the only signs of game seen. • Some moss, grass, and a handful of rock were brought back. The position of this island was fixed at latitude 77° 8' north, longitude 157° 43' east; that of Jeannette Island, latitude 76° 47' north, longitude 158° 56' east, "Thank God," writes De Long, "we have at least landed upon a newly-discovered part of this earth, and a peril- ous journey has been accomplished without disaster." Engineer Melville relates an amusing incident in connec- tion with his trip: Nindemann, suffering of the cramps, called uponEricksen to apply tincture of capsicum to the aching parts. Instead, however, he spilled it upon his own cracked and blis- tered hands, which, burning as with fire, caused him to lose his head completely and he further applied sweet oil not only to these but also to a very large and sore nose. Poor Ericksen was greatly surprised, and he rolled and squirmed in the snow like an eel, while the men good-naturedl}^ suggested that he disrobe and sit down in the snow to cool off; that he station himself on top of an ice-hummock lest he melt his way through the floe; that he be placed in the forecastle of the ship as a heater; that he was "hot enough to make the snow hiss," etc. Drifting steadily westward, the vessel was slowly retreat- ing from the sight of land. On the night of the 9th she was subjected to several severe jars, and amidst a fearful snapping and cracking, what was left of the old eighty-yard water lane opened to a width of ten feet. The further history of the "Jeannette" is brief. Cracking in every part by reason of the tremendous pressure about her, she began to fill rapidly, and at 4 a. m. of June 12th (Monday, June 13, true time), she slowly sank on an even keel, in latitude 77° 15' north, longitude 155° east. All on board made their escape to the ice with an abundance of provisions, twenty-three dogs, sledges, boats, and other supplies. "Good-bye, old ship!" said De Long sadly, as she went to the bottom. At length, on the evening of the 18th of June, began the 394 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; retreat southward, "hoping with God's blessing to reach the New Siberian Islands," and thence to make their way "by boats to the coast of Siberia," Traveling by night (when the sun was circling lowest, above the northern horizon), they slept during the day (when the sun was circling highest, above the southern horizon). On the 25th, at midnight — the dinner hour — careful observation showed their position to be in latitude 77° 46'. They had, therefore, as they journeyed southward over the ice, been drifted with it to the northwest, and the end of the week found them twenty-eight miles farther north than when they began the retreat. The course w^as thereupon changed to the southwest, which would intersect the drift of ice to the northwest and bring them to the edge of the ice more rapidly. Fogs, lanes of water having to be bridged as often as five times in a single half night, rains, "hot weather," causing the men to suffer although the temperature of the air in the shade was only 30°, and several enfeebled men — those suffering of lead-poisoning — retarded progress. On the FOURTH OF JULY all the flags were set flying in honor of the day. On Sunday, the 10th, considerable "needle ice," as it is termed b}^ Parry, w^as encountered. In the opinion of that daring navigator this is caused by rain-drops, but in the judgment of De Long "by the more rapid drawing awaj- of the salt in some places than in others, leaving bunches, or tufts of long spikes," Supper was had at 7:30 a, m,, after which considerable ex- citement was created by the appearance of land to the south- west. As the nearest known Siberian island was yet distant 120 miles, were they approaching some hitherto unknown island? At 8:45 the usual divine service was held. On the following day it was found that they were in reality approach- ing new land. On this day, too, many dovekies, several gulls, and one auk were seen, and A LIVE BUTTERFLY was picked up. The frail thing had undoubtedly been blown from the land farther south. This circumstance recalls to the OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 395 writer the great numbers of butterflies of various species seen floating far out at sea — probably 200 miles — off the coast of Labrador upon our return from North Greenland in Septem- ber, 1894. On Sunday, July 17th, more "crimson snow" and mud-bear- ing ice were seen. De Long, by breaking through the ice, dis- covered that a seal had two breathing-holes leading from the sea, the holes being connected by a covered way under the thin snow crust. In a cavity in the ice near one of the holes the seal had lain and rubbed the shedding hair off his skin. On the 20th, a fine 3- oung walrus bull weighing from 1,200 to 1,500 pounds was killed. This afforded the men and dogs choice food for several days. In its stomach were found shrimps, small fish like smelts, and sea-anemones. On the 2ist the land was again in plain view, and on the next da}' a loon, many gulls, and several murres were seen. On the 23d the "STARS AND STRIPES" were unfurled in view of the newly-discovered land. On the next day Mr. Collins shot two seals, only one of which was secured. Gortz also killed a bear within 500 yards of the camp. Having returned to the natural order of working by day, the part}^ were drifting at 7 p. m. of the 2Gth about a mile off shore, abreast a large glacier. Two days later the entire party effected a landing, the colors of the United States were un- furled and possession of it taken in the name of the President of the United States. It was very appropriately named BENNETT ISLAND. Three cheers were lustily given in gratification of the event and also three more for Captain De Long. At this time the date was changed to the true one, viz., Friday, July 29th, the corrected dates being thereafter used. A full week was spent in exploring the island and in mak- ing scientific observations. Before noon of the 30th specimens of moss, grass, scurvy grass, yellow flowers, tufa, lava, cryo- lite (?), amethj^sts, murres' eggs, spotted, and as large as hens' eggs, a piece of reindeer horn with moss on it, and a small col- S96 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLEi lection of drift-wooci, were brought in. Later these collections were increased in great abundance. Mr. Melville found a large vein of bituminous coal. It burned very readily. Hematite, from which brown metallic paint is made, was also found. The seam was from six to twenty-four inches thick and at an elevation of one hundred fifty feet above sea-level. Dr. Ambler found the island to be of volcanic origin and composed of trap rock containing feldspar, silica in various forms, lava varying in color from yellowish-brown to dark green, brick-colored clays, quartz, stalagmites, and stalactites, etc. The stratification w^as horizontal. Fossils and two va- rieties of gypsum-like stones were also found. Of the thousands of birds which covered the cliffs enough were secured to afford all delicious food while on the island. Those fried in bear's fat were pronounced luxurious. From small streams was obtained a most welcome suppl}' of pure water, fresh and sweet. In an excursion along the southern shore Mr. Dunbar found traces of bears and foxes, grouse or ptarmigan droppings, probably traces of the Arctic hare, an old bone, probably that either of a musk-ox or a walrus, and a bear's winter house, divided into inner and outer apartments. He also found two glaciers — the more distant and larger being the one seen by the party on the 26th. It was three miles across its face and fifty or sixty feet high. On the ice foot near it was much ''crim- son snow\" A hundred feet above the sea-level and five hundred up the slope was a quantity of drift-wood which had probably been carried there by the gradual upheaval of the laud. The extinct volcano, foiTr or five miles from the encamp- ment at Cape Emma, was found to be nearly a mile inland. In attempting to cross it Mr. Dunbar, with Alexey and Ane- guin, was stopped by fog when at an elevation of about 1,000 feet. At that point Avere picked up marine shells. Lieutenant Chipp was also sent to examine the west coast and made a trip of seventeen miles, bringing back quite a col- oil, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 39? lection. Mr. Collins accompanied him and made some good sketches. The position of Cape Emma, the southernmost point of the island, was fixed at latitude 76° 38' north, longitude 148° 20' east. Before leaving the island two of the poorest dogs were shot. Breaking camp, the journey southward was resumed on the 6th of August. On the 30th the entire party, after great effort, gained the southern extremity of THADDEUS, OR FADDEJEFFSKOI ISLAND. Here the explorers' feet, for the first time in two years, pressed warm moss and grass upon real good firm ground. "Snoozer," the only dog remaining, all the others having been reluctantly disposed of, showed his delight by tearing about after lem- mings, whose holes were very numerous. Here were also seen the tracks of a hare, whole trees of Norway pine, black geese, sanderlings, ducks, owls, snipes, seals, a ptarmigan, fresh tracks and droppings of reindeer, and the ruins of several tim- ber huts. Again, on September 4th, after a hard voyage of seventy miles, the southern extremity of Kotelnoi Island was attained. On it were seen thousands of ducks and other birds peculiar to the region, many tracks and antlers of deer, a fossil bone, ammonites, large purple jelly-fishes in the sea, lemmings with- out number, many large wliite and brown owls, great piles of drift-wood, and several ruined huts. In one of the huts were found rags stuffed in the chinks, an elephant tusk, a fork, a spoon, and a drinking-cup of wood, and a Kussian coin, a copeck, dated 1840. The hut was plastered with mud on the roof and sides and was built with a porch. Pine and spruce logs lay about in great abundance. Some of the wood bore fresh marks of axes, etc. Steering southwesterly, the forenoon of the 10th brought the boats along the north shore of SEMENOVSKI ISLAND, which appeared to be about one-eighth of a mile in width and from 30 to 100 feet high. It seemed to be washing away, and S98 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; much mud was visible. Upon its top a deer's antler and some mastodon teeth were found. In the afternoon a tine doe was killed. Her fawn was shot at, but escaped. The doe had probably remained on this island in the spring, behind the herd migrating northward, in order to bear her young, and, with the return migration in the fall, would probably have again joined her kind. The water obtained here tasted "hoggish" and was filled with animalculae and "red grubs." Again getting under way on the morning of the 12th, Was- silevski Island was passed in the course of the forenoon and the last stretch toward the Lena delta begun. That night IN A FEARFUL GALE. the three boats containing the party became separated and never again met. The second cutter, in charge of Lieutenant Chipp, with Messrs. Dunbar, Sw^eetman, Kuehne, Warren, Sharvell, Starr, and Johnson, was never afterwards heard of. Four days later the other boats reached the long-struggled- for delta. The whale-boat, in charge of Mr. Melville, with Lieutenant Danenhower (disabled), and Messrs. Newcomb, Cole, Wilson, Leach, Lauterbach, Bartlett, Manson, Aneguin, and Tong Sing, entered one of the numerous mouths of the river near Cape Borkhia, at a considerable distance south of Barkin, the objective point for all the boats. De Long's party having landed from the first cutter on the 17th, he followed his custom of depositing a record indicating the progress of the expedition. This w^as near Lighthouse Point, the northernmost locality in the Lena delta. He then began, on the 19th, the terrible march southward, following the upward course of the river. Had he, instead, turned west- ward and traveled about thirty-five miles, he would undoubt- edly have reached the native settlement at North Bunlun in safety. But alas! his chart contained no information con- cerning this friendly community and he blindly followed the course of starvation and death. From the start, Ericksen and Lee, in their enfeebled state, retarded the rapid progress of the party. On the 20th seven or eight deer were seen, but none was secured. Numei\)us fox OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 399 traps set for game and several huts were passed. In one of the huts the party spent the night of the 21st. While here Alexey cautiously stole upon a herd of fourteen reindeer and killed two. Accordingly the party remained in camp till the 24th, eating, and regaining strength. Again painfully advancing, the last meal was once more on hand when, on the 2Tth, Nindemann and Alexej^ were sent out to search for game. Providentialh^, Alexey killed a fine buck. Nindemann's rifle failed to explode and the other ten deer escaped. Five days later, the last mouthful was eaten. For this reason, at night on the 3d of October, "Snoozer," the last of the dogs, was killed and partaken of. Meanwhile, Ericksen had suffered amputation of portions of his feet and became unconscious. He died on the 6th, and was buried in the river. On the bank there was a placed a board inscribed: IN MEMORY. H. H. ERICKSEN. OCT. 6, 1881. U. S. S. JEANNETTE. Before burial his body was wrapped in the flag and sewed into a large bag. His Bible and locks of his hair were feel- ingly^ preserved b}" his mates. This was the one hundred sixteenth day out since leaving the ship. On the next day, with only two quarts of alcohol and some old tea leaves, the struggle toward Ku Mark Surka was re- newed. After advancing about eight miles Nindemann and Noros were sent ahead, on the 9th, for relief. Two days later De Long and party were overtaken by a severe snow storm which continued till the afternoon of the 14th and prevented their advancing more than a mile. Again advancing a short distance on the 15th, they en- camped near an empty grain raft, or flat-bottomed boat. Alexey and Lee had broken down. On the 17th Alexey was found to be dying and was baptized by Dr. Ambler. About 400 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; sunset he breathed his last and was buried in the ice of the river. On the 19th the camp was shifted a short distance — for the last time. Meanwhile, Nindemann and Noros were struggling forward. Keeping along the west bank of the river, crossing sand-pits and streams, sleeping in snow-banks, seeing game — a herd of reindeer, a crow, and an owl — at a tantalizing distance, they reached, on the evening of the 19th, some huts, in one of which they found some fish-nets and other articles and a quantity of blue molded but tasteless fish, of which, having built a large fire, they proceeded to eat. Dysentery now added to their weakness and they were obliged to remain by the fire within the hut. The place where they then were is known as Bulcour. Would that their com- panions had been there with them! When, at noon of the 22d, the two men were preparing to eat, a figure — a man — suddenly appeared at the door! It was one of the natives, but he could give them nothing save a deer skin, a pair of skin boots, and a sign that he would shortly return to them. He then disappeared on his sleigh, drawn by reindeer, leaving the men to query whether they had acted wisely in allowing him to go. Noros, however, was confident that he was a good Christian and would return. That very evening he did return, with two companions and supplies. After partaking of food, the two men were placed in the sleighs and driven about fifteen miles west of the river, where they were kindly received by a small party of natives. In spite of Nindemann's efforts to make them understand his desires to return to the assistance of their companions in the rear, he failed to do so, and on the next day the entire party drove southward until, at the end of two days, on the evening of the 24th, they arrived at Ku Mark Surka. Meanwhile, De Long had recorded, where we took leave of him on the 19th, as follows: "October 21st, Friday. — One hundred and thirty-first day. Kaack was found dead about midnio-ht between the doctor and 4. ^ oP^ g J 2 o " ^ a=" S^*" '-'3 a^ ill sill if a B- « S as 5 ® ^«5 9r1;^o .. O .'(^ o .5 o'J^ ii- O ^J3 O'sjiJ" fl H-= uj a trj >a" __ a> c — ' o^< o =- o £— c a o tn a ■ C'j: ao^p- — -o-i-i t> 'tt^'S 6 fe g tc tj o ' Z 5 n s a "^ -e t ^ '3 .S-a_ 01 n K g"" .^s'xi ai-5 r-'cii i ci: