* 
 
BIG BLOW'S 
 
 Sltrtcftris Of MumUts, 
 
 ^c. 
 
WLtu^m 
 
 SROM A 
 
 2r©wiEsr^:^i 
 
 OR 
 
 SKETCHES OF RAMBLES 
 
 IN SOME PARTS OE 
 
 NORTH BRITAIN AND IRELAND. 
 
 CHIEFLY IN THE YEAR 
 
 BY ANDREW BIGELOW. 
 
 BOSTON : 
 
 WELLS AND LILLY, COUBT-STREET. 
 
 1821. 
 
a«^ 
 
^ttUtt. 
 
 Ik oommitting the following papers to the 
 press, the author deems it incumbent on 
 him to state the circumstances which have 
 led to their publication. 
 
 Early in the autumn of 1819, he was 
 desired by the Editor of a Southern Jour- 
 nal to furnish some sketches of foreign 
 travels for insertion in the miscellany of 
 the work. Hasty delineations of the sce- 
 nery, manners and incidents which fell 
 under the writer's observation in the Bri- 
 tish Kingdoms particularly, he was told 
 would be acceptable ; and he was request- 
 ed to subjoin such general remarks illus- 
 trative of men and things, as might occur 
 
 (o Sti^ 
 
 A^ 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 to him in transcribing any portions of his 
 journal for publication. 
 
 The author accordingly commenced the 
 undertaking, willing to refresh his own re- 
 collections, and to recreate his memory by 
 the retrospect of the past. The publica- 
 tion of the series had scarcely begun, when 
 he was called to a distant part of the coun- 
 try to labour in his profession, w^here for 
 the ensuing eighteen months, the arduous- 
 ness of his duties prevented him from 
 prosecuting the plan only at irregular inter- 
 vals, and at best, very imperfectly. The 
 pieces forwarded therefore, with the excep- 
 tion of the marginal remarks, were almost 
 literal transcripts of sketches hastily noted 
 in the author's travelling diary ; and owing 
 to the distance to which they were sent, 
 he was unable to rectify the accidental 
 errours, — some of which were very mate- 
 rial, — w^hich occurred in the printing. The 
 sketches appeared in numbers, either in 
 the Analectic Magazine, or, after the al- 
 teration of the plan of that work, in the 
 
PREFACE. VII 
 
 Philadelphia Literary Gazette, its succes- 
 sor. Of those now given to the public, 
 the Excursion from Edinburgh to Dublin, 
 the Tour to Loch* Katrine and the Gram- 
 pians, and the Journey to Melrose and 
 Dryburgh Abbies, were first placed at the 
 disposal of the Editor of those excellent 
 Miscellanies. The others which follow 
 were also prepared for insertion in them ; 
 but circumstances precluded their being 
 seasonably forwarded, and they have been 
 hitherto withheld by the author. 
 
 Of the Excursion to Dublin, large ex- 
 tracts have been republished in several of 
 the American Newspapers. Parts of it 
 also appeared in a London Magazine ; and 
 again, a fragment or two in the Boston 
 Athena3um, — the last probably by mis- 
 take, in the presumption that the sketches 
 Avere of British origin. As some slight 
 attention was accordingly drawn to the 
 papers in their anonymous form; and as in 
 the more extended extracts from them the 
 errors of fact already adverted to, as well 
 
VIU PREFACE. 
 
 as other inaccuracies were retained, the 
 writer has bern induced to collect and 
 publish them in a body, with th6 necessary 
 corrections and a few additions. Little 
 alteration has been made in the style ; and 
 as much of the freshness of the original 
 notes has been preserved as was consistent 
 with perspicuity and exactness. Sketches 
 of rapid incident cannot be supposed to 
 abound much in detail ; and the author in 
 making the following selections from his 
 journal trusted their claims to attention 
 chiefly on the intrinsic interest of the 
 scenes, which he has attempted to deli- 
 neate. He commits them to the candour 
 of the reader, and will be happy, should 
 they meet with indulgence, and serve to 
 entertain some vacant hour. 
 
 September, 1821. 
 
eotitewtfii. 
 
 Excursion from Edinburgh to Dublin 1 
 
 Walk to Holyrood 179 
 
 Tour to Loch Katrine and the Grampians 197 
 
 A Day in Lorn 251 
 
 Visit to the Grave of Col. Gardiner.... 269 
 
 Pilgrimage to Melrose and Dryburgh Abbies.iM>i.ii>iii>i>Mi»i«i«« 289 
 
isrtttt^ion 
 
 sRoac 
 
 M®1H®¥®©4KI T® DWJBMS* 
 
^; 
 
 FROM 
 
 EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN 
 
 GLASGOW, APRIL 11, 1817. 
 
 ± HE clock of St. Giles' had tolled the hour of eight, 
 when the stage-coach, in which I had taken a seat 
 for Glasgow, rattled to the door. A few friends had 
 assembled to witness my departure from Edinburgh, 
 and to take a temporary leave. I was fortunate in 
 having for a companion an intelligent and valued 
 fellow-countryman, who had made an arrangement 
 to travel with me to Dublin, whence, after a short 
 stay, he was to embark for the south of England. 
 On descending to the carriage, 1 was struck with the 
 beauty and brilliancy of the morning. The air was 
 mild and temperate ; the sky free from clouds ; and 
 the sun, which had risen high, was pouring a broad 
 light over the tops of the huge masses of houses in 
 
 1 
 
2 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 the old town, and displaying in all their gigantic 
 prominence the grey walls and towers of its ancient 
 castle. From the ramparts of the last a bugle was 
 just sounding. I had often listened with delighted 
 emotion to the effect of this music, in a morning or 
 evening, from the windows of my lodgings, which 
 were in the new town, and nearly opposite, and 1 
 would gladly have now paused to enjoy it, had I not 
 remembered that the summons of a coach-guard was 
 urgent and imperative. I soon took my seat, and 
 the deafening tones of the horn which he immediate- 
 ly commenced blowing, as the coach drove rapidly 
 along Prince's street, quickly drowned every finer 
 feeling which the inspiring note of the bugle was 
 just awakening. 
 
 We left Edinburgh by St. Cuthbert's : the road 
 soon passing between the Gorstorphine hills on the 
 right, and further on, the Pentlands on the left. 
 Our route to Glasgow lay through Midcalder and 
 Whitburn. The country during the latter part of 
 the way was far from being inviting : in a few places 
 indeed it was rather dreary. The Lothians however, 
 round Edinburgh, are very fertile districts, and under 
 high cultivation. The Lothian farmers are inferior 
 to none in Great Britain. Three miles from Edin- 
 burgh the freestone walls by the sides of the way 
 ceased, and hedge-rows commenced. The hawthorn, 
 in many spots, was quite verdant for the season ; in 
 some, almost in full leaf Gooseberries were still 
 more forward. The peasantry were busily employed 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 
 
 in the fields, either ploughing, or otherwise prepar- 
 ing them for planting. Corn, or rather grain, they 
 finished sowing, in this part of Scotland, ten days or 
 a fortnight ago. Many of their lands were thrown 
 up into long narrow ridges or swells. These make 
 a good appearance, and are a proper precaution in a 
 humid chmate to admit the passage of rain along the 
 intervening furrows. We noticed some women en- 
 gaged in the open fields in various hardy occupations, 
 and thought that they managed the implements of 
 husbandry quite as well as the men. The latter 
 wore generally a large blue woollen cap, flattened 
 upon the head, and slouched over the eyes. This 
 was the lowland bonnet, and a very unbecoming one 
 it is. The cottages were chiefly thatched for the 
 first half of the way, after which tiled roofs made 
 their appearance, and increased in number as we 
 approached Glasgow. Five or six miles from that 
 city a stream was descried at some distance on the 
 left, apparently about twenty or thirty yards wide. 
 ' Is that the Clyde ?' inquired 1 of a fellow passenger. 
 He replied that it was ; and I looked again, but was 
 still disappointed. It appeared a pretty, and on the 
 whole, a respectable stream, compared with some 
 other Scotch rivers, but nothing better. The Clyde 
 accompanied us but a little way, when it took another 
 direction and disappeared. 
 
 The entrance into Glasgow by the Gallowgate, is 
 far from being tine. We passed a number of manu- 
 facturing establishments ; — indeed I should have 
 
4 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 known at once that 1 was approaching a manufactur- 
 ing town, from the towering conical chimnies, the 
 smoke, and other famiUar accompaniments. — 
 Trongate-street looked very well ; we drove through 
 it, and, entering Argyle-street, were soon set down 
 at the door of an inn where half a dozen waiters and 
 porters stood ready to assist us in alighting, and in 
 getting our luggage from the coach. But we had 
 no disposition to stop there, and accordingly sent 
 our portmanteaus to the Buck's Head, an inn which 
 had been recommended to us as preferable. We 
 arrived too late to present letters, or make calls, 
 but have taken an hasty walk through some of the 
 principal streets. It is now 4, P. M. I have been 
 writing with as much rapidity as my pen can move 
 over the paper. Dinner is in readiness, and I must 
 desist from the double motive of dearth of matter 
 and the desire of attending to the call of the former. 
 One difference which I perceive between this city 
 and Edinburgh, is the hour of dining, which here is 
 four, and at Edinburgh five. 
 
 April 12th. — My companion, who had been in this 
 city before, was walking out last evening after din- 
 ner, when he accidentally met Mr. B. one of his 
 Glasgow friends, and to whose family I was the 
 bearer of an introductory letter. The gentleman 
 returned with him to our lodgings, and gave a 
 cordial invitation to tea, which we had no reluctance 
 in accepting. My letter was presented to the 
 family, and engaged every attention which the 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. ^ 
 
 distinguished character of the lady from whom I had 
 received it had authorized me to anticipate. My 
 new friends I found highly agreeable ; two or three 
 of their city acquaintance called in accidentally, and 
 the evening glided imperceptibly away in animated 
 conversation, till a late hour. 
 
 To-day we have been engaged in presenting 
 letters, all of which have been duly honoured, and 
 in inspecting a few of the objects most worthy of 
 attention in this great city. We were taken to the 
 Tontine reading room, which we found well sup- 
 plied with newspapers, and other periodical publi- 
 cations. The annual subscription, (thirty-five shil- 
 lings sterling,) was thought large. Letters which 
 we brought to the Professors of Natural History 
 and of Humanity in the University, gave us an 
 opportunity of visiting very satisfactorily the interior 
 of that seat of science. A part of our observations, 
 however, we were obliged to defer till another day. 
 The college buildings form two large quadrangles 
 with spacious areas. The side towards the street 
 through which is the main entrance, is extensive, 
 but has a very heavy and gloomy appearance. The 
 larger hall of the library is a fine specimen of the 
 Ionic. The whole number of volumes is estimated 
 at twenty-five thousand, among which are many that 
 are highly prized. A beautiful MS. copy of the 
 Vulgate, brilliantly illuminated, was shown. Although 
 executed more than five centuries ago, it retains its 
 colourings unimpaired. Several paintings, however^ 
 
 1 * 
 
6 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 at the commencement of the Book of Genesis, — 
 though they illustrate the quaintness and spirit of 
 the times, — might have been spared, without fear of 
 offending a fastidious eye. One, which could not 
 easily be forgotten, represents mother Eve just 
 springing from the side of Adam, and standing with 
 unblushing indifference •• in puris naturalibus.' We 
 saw also the autograph of the famous doggerel 
 version of the Bible, by the eccentric Zachary Boyd. 
 This singular man left a large property to the 
 college on condition that they should publish his 
 work. They complied with the condition, I under- 
 stand, only so far as to print a part of the manu- 
 script, which was a portion of the Psalms, if I 
 Temember correctly, but so managed as to secure 
 the donation entire. Boyd is represented to have 
 been exemplary in his private character ; and withal, 
 shrewd and clever. The manuscript is very indis- 
 tinct ; to me almost illegible. Professor M. who 
 had often consulted it, read several choice extracts 
 which were very ludicrous. I cannot remember 
 them all, nor should I repeat them here if I did.* 
 
 * To illustrate, however, the poetic character of the production 
 and display the merits of this ' sweel smger,'' I here subjoin a 
 few lines, which, with some other specimens, were actually seen. 
 They are extracted from Jonah's comforting soliloquy in the 
 whale's belly. 
 
 * What house is this ? — Here's neither coal nor candle ; 
 
 And nought but garbled fish alone I handle. 
 
 I and my table are both here within. 
 
 Where day ne'er dawn'd, where sun did never shine. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 7 
 
 From the library we were conducted into the 
 ' Fore Hall,' a large room in which we found all the 
 recent English publications. The University of 
 Glasgow, in common with those of Edinburgh, St. 
 Andrews, and Aberdeen, and the Advocates' library 
 also at Edinburgh, enjoys a title to a copy of every 
 work which is entered at Stationers' Hall. This is 
 the share of a common privilege, secured by act of 
 parliament to several other learned institutions in 
 Great Britain, which goes to Scotland^ and a pretty 
 large one it is too, amounting, if I mistake not, to 
 live-elevenths of the whole grant. This receiving- 
 room at Glasgow may therefore be considered as a 
 kind of librometer^ showing the number of new books 
 annually entered at Stationers' Hall, and affording 
 data whence to calculate the whole amount issued 
 from the press. It is found that the Scottish pro- 
 ductions which come to hand, average about thirty 
 a month : — and the whole number annually publish- 
 ed in North Britain may be estimated at five hun- 
 dred. There are a few good paintings in this Hall, 
 among which is a highly finished portrait of the 
 
 Not so was Noah in his house of tree, 
 
 For tlirough a window he the light did see. 
 
 He sail'd above the Irighest waves : a wonder, 
 
 I and my boat are all the waters under ! 
 
 He and his ark might go and also come ; 
 
 But I sit still in such a straitened room 
 
 As is most uncouth ; — head and feet togetiier, 
 
 Among such grease as would a thousand smoLhor.' 
 
EXCURSION FROM 
 
 present earl of Buchan, taken when lord Cardross, 
 and precisely similar to one which ornaments the 
 breakfast-room in his lordship's town-house in Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 In the course of the forenoon we walked upon 
 the green meadows along Clydesdale, a little remov- 
 ed from the busy stir of the city, and admired the 
 noble monument erected to the memory of Nelson. 
 It is an obelisk one hundred and thirty feet in height 
 finely proportioned, and it reflects great honour 
 upon the taste and munificence of the people of 
 Glasgow. It would be a beautiful work but for a 
 disaster which has somewhat disfigured its appear- 
 ance. A year or two after its erection, which was 
 about 1808, the top was struck with lightning, and 
 was much fractured. A large fissure was cleft be- 
 tween the stones. Several of them weighing from 
 five hundred to one thousand pounds were protrud- 
 ed so far out as to seem in momentary danger of 
 being precipitated below, although none even to 
 this day have been entirely dislodged. A clumsy 
 wooden fence surrounds the base of this column, 
 which the inhabitants of Glasgow would long ere this 
 have superseded by a suitable iron balustrade but 
 for the expectation of the speedy fall of the impend- 
 ing masses of stone from above. The rent is visi- 
 bly widening each year by the action of frost and 
 other natural causes, and is giving dreadful presage 
 of an approaching final disruption. And yet we saw 
 the poorer classes of females, for whose accommo- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 9 ' 
 
 dation a large and commodious wash-house "has been 
 erected in this vicinity, unconcernedly employed 
 within a few yards of the monument, and in one or 
 two instances, spreading their clothes for drying 
 within a few yards of its base. 
 
 At the hour of dining we went to ' North Wood- 
 side,' a delightful country residence about two miles 
 from Glasgow, the property of an opulent merchant. 
 It is situated upon the Kelvin, a tributary stream of 
 the Clyde, and, together with its grounds, exhibits 
 striking evidences of the elegant but costly taste of 
 its proprietor. The gentleman* had been in Ame- 
 rica, and was not a little attached to its form of go- 
 vernment, — a partiality which naturally extended 
 itself to the individuals concerned in its administra- 
 tion ; and accordingly we were gratified with be- 
 holding the portraits of several of our most distin- 
 guished countrymen adorning the walls of his 
 apartments. The afternoon passed highly to our 
 satisfaction ; and we would gladly have accepted an 
 invitation, which was given with a sincerity which 
 could not be mistakan, to protract our visit beyond 
 the day, but for engagements which required our 
 return to Glasgow. After coffee we left North- 
 Wood-side, and reached the city in season to sup 
 with the Rev. Dr. Chalmers. • 
 
 * The writer of these notices has since had the satisfaction to 
 receive this gentleman under his paternal roof: — a fortunate 
 circumstance having once more brought him to America. 
 
10 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 It had been my good fortune to meet, and become 
 partially acquainted with this extraordinary man in 
 Edinburgh. He had politely invited me to visit him 
 in Glasgow, and this morning I called at his house 
 and passed an half hour with him. I found him then 
 much engaged in completing some preparations for 
 a journey to London which he is to commence on 
 Monday. He desired my company at supper in the 
 evening, and extended the invitation to my compan- 
 ion. We found a few friends at his house, among 
 whom were several ladies. Mrs. C. possesses a 
 pleasing person, and engaging manners, and per- 
 formed the honours of the table with great proprie- 
 ty. Dr. C. had finished the necessary arrangements 
 for his journe}'^, and entered freely into an animated 
 and instructive conversation. His colloquial powers 
 are of an high order. Even in familiar conversa- 
 tion he is impressive and striking ; although he 
 seems not to be ambitious of display, er the distinc- 
 tion of taking a lead. — He is at home upon most of 
 the popular topics of the day. In discussing any of 
 interest, he engages ' ioim in illis? His thoughts 
 in that case are rapid, and his remarks, — assuming 
 the complexion of his fervid mind, — abound in glow- 
 ing, but easy illustrations. He spoke very feehngly 
 upon the subject of the English poor laws, and the 
 alarming increase of mendicity in Scotland. As an 
 instance of the unnatural state of things in Glasgow 
 itself, he referred to the sum of 14,000/. sterling 
 which in less than a month had been raised by sub- 
 
EDmBURGH TO DUBLIN. 11 
 
 3cription in this single city, for the relief of the 
 poorer classes. To the honour however of the 
 wealthy population of Glasgow, it should be added, 
 that the monies thus contributed, have been more 
 than enough, with other private benefactions, to 
 supply the present need ; and the surplusage has 
 been funded to meet some future, and I hope, very 
 distant exigency. 
 
 Conversation at table turned upon that dark and 
 malignant spirit of infidelity, which under various 
 forms, seems insidiously stealing like a pestilence 
 through society. Dr. C.'s remarks upon this sub- 
 ject were very eloquent, both in commenting upon 
 the different masks which it assumes, and the co- 
 verts wherein it lurks, and in suggesting some seem- 
 ingly effectual checks to the prevalence of this tre- 
 mendous eviL The inquiries of Dr. C. relative to 
 America, as well now as during a former interview, 
 indicated no small degree of attention which he has 
 paid to its civil and religious institutions. He spoke 
 in terms of great commendation of the writings of 
 the late Jonathan Edwards, and pronounced them to 
 be among the ablest in English theology. In meta- 
 physics, he considers Edwards to have equalled 
 the deepest thinkers of the age. 
 
 The supper at Dr. C.'s was liberally and tastefully 
 provided. Immediately after its removal, and before 
 the wine was placed upon the table, the service of 
 evening devotion was introduced. It was simple but 
 engaging ; consisting of a portion of scripture which 
 
n EXCURSION FROM 
 
 was read with great solemnity, and a prayer, during 
 which all the company kneeled, as is usual in family 
 devotions throughout this country. The servants 
 were present. It was nearly twelve o'clock when 
 we took leave of Dr. C. A very friendly request 
 which he made that I would visit him hereafter in 
 Glasgow, I fear that I shall never have it in my pow- 
 er to comply with. 
 
 Glasgow, 14th April. — Yesterday I had the satisfac- 
 tion to hear Dr. Chalmers once more preach. It was 
 generally understood that it would be the last time 
 that he would officiate in Glasgow for two or three 
 months, and the crowds which assembled to hear 
 him were very great. He was absent from his own 
 pulpit, by exchange, in the morning, which did not 
 prevent, however, many from following him to the 
 church where he preached. The Tron, in the af- 
 ternoon, was overflowing some time before the hour 
 of service, and the rush of people to the doors was 
 as great as I have seen at Covent Garden, when 
 John Kemble was to play. I repaired early to the 
 church with some ladies, and we were fortunate in 
 procuring excellent seats. Dr. C. fully equalled my 
 expectations, although I have heard him in Edinburgh 
 produce a superior effect. The eloquence of this 
 great man is very vehement and impassioned. The 
 . effect which he produces in preaching, does not con- 
 sist in approaching his point by any artful and covert 
 process of reasoning and illustration, but by openly 
 marching up and confronting it with unhesitating and 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 13 
 
 manly intrepidity. Whatever faults may be detected 
 in Dr. C.-s style by the cool eye of fastidious criticism, 
 from the profusion of his ornaments, the overstraining 
 of his metaphors, the redundancy of his expressions, 
 — perhaps there is no person living who, when once 
 seen and heard, would be pronounced more free 
 than he from the petty or laboured artifices which 
 are generally employed to recommend opinion and 
 enforce instruction. So regardless is he of the fac- 
 titious aids of composition, that his style may often 
 be considered negligent, and sometimes even coarse. 
 This again may be regarded by hyper-critics as a 
 species of affectation ; a contrary and, I believe, a 
 juster inference may be drawn from the fact. Dr. C. 
 unconsciously overlooks, while he is thought studi- 
 ously to disdain, the more common trappings and 
 gildings of composition. In preaching he seems 
 wholly absorbed in his subhme occupation, and to 
 be irresistibly borne along by the grandeur of his 
 theme. As a man, he appears to sink under a pros- 
 trating sense of his own personal nothingness, bu 
 as a herald of the christian faith, he rises to the ma- 
 jesty of more than mortal elevation. In discussing 
 the great truths of Revelation, his imagination, it is 
 true, kindles; and strange it would be if it did 
 not. The fire which is elicited is the natural effect 
 of the rapid motion of his thoughts, combined with 
 the fervours of his ardent piety. His single services 
 yesterday were enough to prove him the first prea- 
 cher of his age. In each of his discourses there are 
 
 2 
 
14 EXCURSION FROiM 
 
 some parts which are particularly impassioned, and 
 at such moments he hurries onward, as with the ex- 
 citement of inspiration, and produces an effect which 
 Whitefield could not have surpassed. At these times, 
 too, the listening audience may be seen bending for- 
 ward, as if with breathless interest, to catch each 
 word as it falls from his lips ; and, on his arriving at 
 the conclusion of the particular train of sentiment, 
 again arousing as from the spell of a dream to the 
 reality of conscious existence. This is not fancy, or, 
 if it be, it is one which I am not singular in possess- 
 ing. Dr. C. at least produces the effect of awaken- 
 ing susceptibilities in the most obdurate bosoms. I 
 was present one evening when he was preaching 
 in lady Glenorchy's chapel in Edinburgh, and occupi- 
 ed a seat next to Spurzheim, the celebrated cranio- 
 logist. I noticed that he was deeply engaged by the 
 the preacher. On his finishing, I inquired what he 
 thought of him ? ' It is too much, too much,' said he, 
 passing his hand across his forehead, ' my brain is on 
 a fever by what 1 have been hearing ;' — a striking 
 declaration from a cold and phlegmatic German. 
 
 Dr. C. seems to act and feel as one, who, possess- 
 ed of great intellectual endowments, is conscious 
 that he owes them all to the service of religion. His 
 aim apparently is, to ' bring every thought into cap- 
 tivity to the truth of Christ,' and to ' cast down each 
 lofty imagination,' at the foot of the cross. To add 
 to the weight of his discourses, he is accustomed to 
 call into requisition the abounding stores of his va^ 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIX. 15 
 
 rious knowledge. In delivering his sermons he 
 usually begins in a low, but always a distinct tone of 
 voice ; and proceeds for some time with a calm and 
 uniform utterance. As his subject is developed, his 
 mind and feelings gradually expand and his voice is 
 insensibly raised. His manner at first is not prepos- 
 sessing ; nor indeed is his voice to an English car, a« 
 it has much of the Fifeshire accent. The hearer, 
 however, soon loses whatever is disagreeable in 
 each; and even forgets the man while listening to 
 the message of the preacher. Dr. C. appears turn- 
 ed of thirty-eight, in his person he is tall, and rather 
 slender ; his hair and complexion incline to dark ; 
 his eye is a blue tending to grey, and is distinguish- 
 ed at first only by a certain heaviness in its expres- 
 sion. It beams however in conversation, and flashes 
 in public discourse. 
 
 Some facts in the history of this extraordinary 
 man, are peculiar. For the first few years of his 
 ministry he was settled in Kilmanny, an inconsidera- 
 ble parish in the county of Fife. While there he 
 was generally accounted a man of talents, but rather 
 indifferent to the duties of his profession, fond of so- 
 cial and gay company, proud of his intellectual pow- 
 ers and no less so of his acquirements, and careless 
 of the construction which the more serious part of 
 the community might put upon his principles and 
 sentiments. If I am correctly informed, he occa- 
 sionally gave lectures in natural philosophy to the 
 university of St. Andrews, and was considered as be- 
 
16 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 longing to the moderate party in the kirk. Dr. 
 Brewster apphed to him to write the article Chris- 
 tianity^ in his Encyclopedia ; and it is said, that the 
 train of thought into which his investigation led 
 him, terminated in convictions which had the effect 
 of changing his whole course of .life and sentiments ; 
 and from that moment, entering into the ranks of 
 orthodoxy^ he became an eminent and powerful cham- 
 pion of the faith. His essay has since been pub- 
 lished in a separate form, and entitled the ' Eviden- 
 ces of Christianity.' Shortly after this remarkable 
 change, his reputation rose with astonishing rapid- 
 ity ; his zeal in the service of religion became inex- 
 tinguishable ; and if the excellence of a preacher is 
 to be estimated by his popularity, Dr. C. is decidedly 
 the first in Great Britain. 
 
 This gentleman was transferred to Glasgow two 
 or three years ago. His parish is very large, con- 
 sisting, as he told me, of nearly ten thousand souls. 
 So great a number imposes duties upon him peculiar- 
 ly heavy ; nor does his constitution seem capable of 
 sustaining his fatigues. In delivering his discourses 
 from the pulpit, which generally occupy an hour, it 
 is usual with him to stop about midway, and read a 
 hymn of six or eight verses, to be sung by the au- 
 dience, while an opportunity is given him to recover 
 from the partial exhaustion occasioned by his vehe- 
 ment oratory. The people in Edinburgh are desi- 
 rous of erecting a church for him, and to request him 
 to settle among them ; but an obstacle is found in 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. ' 17 
 
 the jealousy of the inhabitants of Glasgow, who 
 look with no small uneasiness upon every thing 
 which tends to aggrandize the reputation of Ediu- 
 burgh.* 
 
 To day we resumed our inspection of Glasgow. 
 We commenced with visiting the Lunatic Asylum, a 
 noble institution. The buildings are spacious and 
 highly commodious ; the regulations within them ex- 
 cellent. Apartments, suppUed w^ith suitable accom- 
 modations, are rented according to their respec- 
 tive eligibility, at various prices from eight shil- 
 lings to a guinea and an half a week. Ninety-six 
 patients are at present in the asylum. One or two 
 we noticed in the grounds with straight jackets. We 
 walked among them in a large court adjoining the 
 buildings, although, as the keeper said, it was at the 
 risk of personal exposure. The patients were 
 walking to and fro, most of them without noticing 
 us, or each other. Many of them had a very mel- 
 ancholy appearance, and several a terribly wild 
 look. We were surveyed attentively by one for 
 some time, who at length came up and timidly ask- 
 ed, ' do either of you gentlemen take snuff V A 
 Scotch question, thought I, while I sincerely regret- 
 ted that I did not possess a box which I might have 
 given to him with its contents. 
 
 * Since the above was written, Dr. C. has been presented to 
 
 the church of St. Johns, a new and elegant erection in Glas- 
 
 gov:-. 
 
 o # 
 
1^ EXCURSION FROM 
 
 We proceeded next to the Cathedral, a fine mas- 
 sive Gothic structure. Its architecture is heavy, 
 but is distinguished by an air of solemn and severe 
 majesty. It presents many evidences of great anti- 
 quity ; and is surrounded by a church-yard, where 
 the passenger may read in the simple inscriptions of 
 many a long forgotten name, a more impressive les- 
 son of human frailty, than could be inculcated by 
 the most laboured homily. One of these sepulchral 
 records, found upon a monument within the Cathe- 
 dral, which I copied with a pencil upon the spot, I 
 here transcribe as curious for its antique orthogra- 
 phy, and its promiscuous notice of the ravages of 
 death in a single family. ' Heir ar bureit S^ Wal- 
 tier, S^ Thomas, S>^ Jhonie, S^' Robert, S»* Jhonie, 
 and S^' Mathieu, by lineal descent to utheris Barons 
 and Knichis of the Hous of Mynto, with their vyffis, 
 bairnis and bretherein.' 
 
 Having inspected every thing worthy of atten- 
 tion in the cathedral, its subterranities, Laigh Kirk^ 
 and relics, we left it to visit once more the univer- 
 sity. On our way there we deviated to see the house 
 where the famous Lord Darnley resided. Nothing is 
 observable about it at present, excepting that from 
 being a lordly residence, it is converted into shops 
 of millinery and small wares. We met professor W. 
 by appointment at the university, and were leisurely 
 conducted by him through Hunter's museum. Its 
 collections are rich and extensive ; but to attempt 
 an enumeration of what many have already describ- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 19 
 
 ed would be an idle and profitless employment. 
 It is sufficient to say that we saw what thousands of 
 visitors have seen before, and paid the tribute of 
 our humble applause to the liberal taste and perse- 
 vering enterprise of its late collector and donor. 
 Several Roman inscriptions upon tablets lately dug 
 from Graham's dyke were shown ; also, altars, va- 
 ses, and other antiquities found in different parts of 
 Scotland. Our attention was directed to two origi- 
 nal letters of Washington and Franklin deposited 
 open in a glass case. The subjects of each are un- 
 important, that of the former, particularly, 1 wished 
 not quite so trivial. It relates to the purchase of 
 some gold-lace for a military coat, and is dated 1799. 
 The anatomical preparations connected with the 
 museum are very valuable ; among them are many 
 monstrous specimens, Lusus naturce, and untimely 
 births. Adjacent to the university, is a spacious 
 green inclosed for the walks and recreations of the 
 students. The latter are distinguished in term time 
 by an uncouth cloak of red cloth reaching below the 
 knees ; an attire which in its best estate comports 
 little with academic gravity ; and as worn by many 
 of the students, these garments appear ludicrous 
 enough. What remains of their original colour is 
 traversed and intermixed with various stains, which 
 gives them an appearance singularly fantastic. It is 
 well if the spectator does not detect in them rents 
 worn by the elements and hard usage. They seem 
 like so many untrimmed cloaks of cavalry privates, 
 
20 EXCURSION FKOISI 
 
 which, after performing a fair term of service in 
 camp, and subsequently undergoing a suitable qua- 
 rantine in a pawn-broker's shop, have been bought 
 up for these sons of science, to descend as heir-looms 
 from one academic generation to another. A troop 
 of these students might be easily mistaken for a part 
 of the grotesque 4rain of king Lear. 
 
 In the course of the day we visited Cameron, 
 Thompson and Co.'s steam-loom manufactory. Each 
 important part of its process from clearing the raw 
 wool to the completion of the cloth, is conducted by 
 the agency of steam. The power of the engine is 
 fifty horses. The establishment cost forty thousand 
 pounds sterling, and gives employment to four hun- 
 dred hands. 
 
 We dined with a pleasant party at Mrs. B.'s. 
 Dr. G., a lecturer on Botany, was present. He 
 conversed much concerning a projected botanical 
 garden in the vicinity of the city. A delegation had 
 been abroad in the neighbourhood in the morning to 
 report on a proper site. Eight stations had been 
 examined, among which the choice was to be deter- 
 mined between two or three. The shares to sub- 
 scribers are rated at ten guineas, and the amount of 
 funds necessary for the completion of the garden is 
 computed at six or seven thousand pounds. 
 
 The inhabitants of Glasgow, as far as our obser- 
 vatioii has extended, are remarkably frank and 
 sociable. In hospitality, they yield not to the citi- 
 zens of the ' Gude Town.' Two or three of their 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 21 
 
 customs are peculiar. One is, to have a punch- 
 bowl, graduated in size according to the numbers of 
 the company present, placed upon the table after 
 the first service of wine, to allow the guests an 
 opportunity of resorting at pleasure to a more 
 stimulating liquid. The beverage with which it is 
 generously supplied, is usually hot, and is prepared 
 by the presiding gentleman. From this capacious 
 receiver the foot-glasses of the several guests are 
 successively filled, till they themselves become 
 comfortably furnished. It is proper to mention, 
 that this liquor is not commonly produced till after 
 the ladies have retired. Dram-drinking at dinner is 
 getting out of vogue in this country. In the more 
 respectable famihes of Edinburgh it is seldom prac- 
 tised. When met with, it usually follows the pastry. 
 A single flask of whiskey is then passed round the 
 board to each individual of the company, and a small 
 portion is drank undiluted. Often the same wine- 
 glass circulates with it, and by the time of completing 
 the circuit, if the company be numerous, presents, 
 as might be expected, a very inviting brim to a 
 delicate lip. Port-wine, made into a mixture with 
 hot water and sugar, and thence termed negus^ is a 
 very common drink after dinners and suppers. A 
 larger and smaller glass are placed before each 
 guest, and the gentlemen are expected to provide 
 for themselves and the ladies next to them, if they 
 are so fortunate as to be placed by the side of any. 
 
22 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 A silver ladle is used to decant the liquor from one 
 glass to another. 
 
 Glasgow, April Ibth. — This morning I visited 
 Willovi^-Bank, famous for its great milk-estabhsh- 
 ment. A large portion of the population of Glasgow 
 receive supplies from it. There are one hundred 
 and eighty cows, which are kept in two great cover- 
 ed areas, in rows fronting each other. Women as 
 well as men are employed in the care of them, and 
 one hand is deemed suflicient for ten cows. A 
 steam-engine of four-horse power is connected with 
 the establishment, by which the surplus milk is 
 churned, the hay chopped, and the oats are thresh- 
 ed J and much manual labour is thereby saved. 
 At Willow-Bank, are also some fine hot, cold, and 
 shower baths, which are much used by the inhabi- 
 tants of Glasgow, Prices of bathing vary from one 
 to three shillings sterling. 
 
 At half past three P. M. I mounted a horse, and, 
 in company with three other gentlemen rode to 
 Jordan Hill, the elegant seat of Mr. S., six miles 
 distant from the city. We left Glasgow by the 
 Barony, proceeding along the Dumbarton road, and 
 the beautiful windings of Clydesdale. Vegetation, I 
 noticed, had sensibly advanced within three or four 
 days, the larches now appearing almost in full ver- 
 dure. Leaving the main road and passing the lodge 
 into the pleasure grounds of Jordan Hill, we crossed 
 a rivulet which was mentioned as the dividing line 
 between the counties of Renfrew and Lanark ; the 
 
EDIJsBURGH TO DUBLIN. 23 
 
 mansion-house being in Renfrew, and the lodge in 
 Lanark. Mr. S. is a gentleman of great wealth, 
 which he is reported to employ as a good almoner. 
 He is held in high estimation, and is distinguished 
 for his courteousness as well as philanthropy. Mrs. 
 S. is a lady of pleasing appearance, a finely culti- 
 vated mind, and an engaging frankness of manners. 
 She is sister to Mrs. B., the initial of whose name 
 has already occurred. 
 
 These two ladies, independently of other attrac- 
 tions, have a peculiar interest attached to them from 
 the circumstance of their early and intimate con- 
 nexion with the lady whose 'Letters from the 
 Mountains,' have circulated extensively on either 
 side of the Atlantic, and gnined for the author a 
 distinguished reputation. The first in that series is 
 addressed to Mrs. S., under her former name of 
 E**** . anj jjj^jjy Q^ ^j^g ^^g^ beautiful which follow 
 in the collection are returns for others sent, either 
 from herself or Mrs. B. The ' Letters' themselves 
 have obtained general suffrage as models, in their 
 kind, of epistolary composition : and, notwithstanding 
 the sneering opinion long since advanced by Pope, 
 incontestably evince that the human heart is capable 
 of unveiling to the inspection of a friend its inmost 
 recesses, through the medium of written correspon- 
 dence. The poet, it is well known, notwithstanding 
 his intimate converse with men and manners, and 
 his fancied thorough knowledge of the bias of motives 
 and the workings of feeling, laboured through life 
 
24 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 under inveterate prejudices in regard to his fellow 
 men, and from a certain suspiciousness inseparable 
 from his constitution, was accustomed to contemplate 
 human nature with a mahgnant and jaundiced eye. 
 Well versed in the arts of deception, and sensible of 
 the sophistry which he often practised upon himself, 
 and still oftener upon others, he considered all man- 
 kind as being more or less adepts like himself in this 
 science of petty self-knavery, and supposed them, 
 even at those moments when they might be expect- 
 ed to impart an unreserved confidence, rather seek- 
 ing disguises by which to cloak their real sentiments, 
 or to escape direct avowals of them. In his estimate 
 of character, Pope was too apt to follow the maxim 
 of the Roman poet, ' Homo sum^ et nihil humani 
 a me alienum puto f and it would have been well if 
 the mistake adverted to had been the only error of 
 judgment into which he was drawn by his servile 
 adoption of that illiberal sentiment. The many 
 letters which he received from Swift alone, are an 
 ample refutation of his assertion that an epistolary 
 correspondence is an unsafe conductor of real and 
 unsophisticated thought and feeling. To these 
 might be added others from Atterbury and Arbuthnot ; 
 whereas Pope's in reply abound, too often, in pointed 
 conceits and studied elegancies. They want that 
 easy flexibiUty indispensable to the perfection of this 
 species of composition, and seem rather copies of 
 the formal and stately epistles of Voiture, than 
 o-enuine and undisguised effusions of the breast. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 25 
 
 If art of any kind be requisite in letter-writing, it is 
 the ' ars celandi^"^ the art of concealing its applica- 
 tion. By a neglect of this, the letters of Pope are 
 any thing but what they should be ; — as Essays^ 
 they may be considered pleasing and beautiful, but 
 as communications of friendship, they are a medley 
 of dissimulation and pedantry. But to return from 
 this digression to the lady whose ' Letters' gave rise 
 unconsciousl}'^ lo these remarks. We perceive in 
 her correspondence no disguise ; her expressions of 
 feeling seem what they are, the breathmgs of an 
 exuberant but delicate sensibility We feel that we 
 are treated with a degree of respect ; that we are 
 admitted to some share of personal and equal con- 
 verse ; and that we are considered, if not full-grown, 
 as at least to have passed that term of pupilage 
 when the rattle is supposed to charm, and the sweet- 
 meat frostings of a sickening sentiment to please. 
 They admit us to an intimate communion with the 
 wTiter's own vigorous and prolific mind, and whether 
 they detail to us descriptions of scenery, delineations 
 of character, or narrations of fact, we are conscious 
 of perusing the remarks of one who knew well how 
 to blend with the genuine impressions of a discrimi- 
 nating judgment, and the associated suggestions of 
 memory, the elegant embelli?hments of a vivid but 
 chastised imagination. There is, it is true, a certain 
 romantic interest connected with the scenes and 
 characters which the writer describes ; but this 
 results not from any apparent overcolouring on her 
 3 
 
26 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 part, but from the knowledge which we insensibly 
 gain of the numerous incidents of her chequered 
 and eventful life. We have no apprehensions lest 
 the friends whom she introduces to us should be 
 found, on a nearer approach, to owe much of their 
 recommendation to the amiable but mistaken partial- 
 ities of friendship. We receive them as she pre- 
 sents them to us, without any internal misgivings ; 
 and are convinced that the individuals whom she 
 ^elected as the associates of her earlier years, and 
 who have proved in later life her faithful bosom 
 repositories, are entitled to all estimation and regard. 
 1 have been led, unintentionally, into a lengthened 
 train of comment, when my object on commencing' 
 the paragraph, was simply to sketch the few inci- 
 dents ol the afternoon's excursion. I wdll therefore 
 only add, that, though of Mrs. S. I cannot be supposed 
 personally to know much, or of Mrs. B. much more, 
 yet that much has no ways disappointed the opinion 
 I had formed of the many excellencies in the cha- 
 racters of either, through the pleasing and interest- 
 ing intimations of Mrs. Grant of Laggan. 
 
 At the dinner table of Jordan Hill, much was 
 asked and said concerning America. I could not 
 but be gratified on hearing many high encomiums 
 passed upon my country, and particularly upon the 
 character of the New-Englanders. Such favourable 
 declarations are ever grateful to the foreigner, and 
 he would fain receive them with emotions wholly 
 abstracted from every undue local bias. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 27 
 
 After dining, and previously to repairing to the 
 drawing-room, I was conducted over the grounds. 
 { found them laid out with much taste, and diversified 
 with several beautiful groupings and plantations of 
 wood. Thej yield two or three very good points of 
 view, from which may be discerned Dumbarton 
 castle, the mouldering walls of Crookstone, the 
 distant turrets of Bothwell, and the busy town of 
 Paisley ; which last, however, is chiefly determined 
 by its smoke. The Campsie Hills, or rather Fells^ 
 as they are termed, are prominent objects in the 
 scene. 
 
 At 9, we left the hospitable mansion of Jordan 
 Hill, and returned to Glasgow. A threatening shower 
 afforded a motive for testing the speed of our horses ; 
 but another, and a more powerful one with my friend 
 and myself, was an engagement to meet at supper, a 
 family which had paid us repeated civilities, and of 
 which we were to take leave previously to our final 
 departure from the city on the following morning. 
 Two of the family we had known in Edinburgh, and 
 were happy in reviving the acquaintance on our 
 visit here. The evening was enlivened with excel- 
 lent music. The elder of the young ladies, a very 
 skilful performer, touched the keys of the piano 
 with uncommon taste and execution, and accompanied 
 some of the finest of the Scottish songs with her rich 
 and melodious voice. Nor were our country's airs 
 forgotten. Washington's March and Yankee Doodle 
 were played ; and it need not be said that thoy lo^t 
 
28 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 nothing in our associations, by being struck by the 
 graceful hand of one of Caledonia's blooming and 
 blushing fair. As my friend was taking a final leave 
 of this country, and my own arrangements required 
 my returning to Scotland, much was kindly said to 
 me by this excellent family, to induce a promise that 
 I would either join them in a comtemplated journey 
 to Inverary and the West Highlands, after a few 
 weeks, or visit them in a country retirement in Lanark 
 sometime in the summer. ' You will do so,' said 
 one on our taking leave ; ' You must,'' said another ; 
 — ' Heaven willing,' replied I, but I left them with 
 the painful impression that we were never more to 
 meet. 
 
 AYR, APRIL 16, 12 P. M. 
 
 We had taken seats last night in the coach for this 
 place, which was to leave Glasgow early this morn- 
 ing ; but on rising, just in season for our departure, 
 an accident, somewhat humorous, though vexatious, 
 interposed unexpectedly an obstacle. It was one 
 of those mistakes which result from the inattention 
 and negligence of others, and remind me of the 
 common-sense maxim of Dr. Franklin. — ' If you 
 want any thing done, go yourself; if you do not, 
 send ;'— a principle which, though rather safer of ap- 
 plication in my own country, will serve very well, 
 if occasionally remembered, in this. As it was 
 deemed expedient that either my companion or my- 
 self should proceed forthwith to Ayr, in order to se- 
 
£DINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 29 
 
 cure seats in the public coach for Port Patrick, on 
 the following day, and that the other should continue 
 behind to correct the mistake, and complete some 
 desired arrangements ; a turn of king George's head 
 decided the question of remaining, in favour of my- 
 self; and it was determined accordingly, that 1 
 should follow in the afternoon's coach, I did not re- 
 gret the detention, as it gave me an opportunity of 
 seeing a few objects in Glasgow, which I had pre- 
 viously neglected. Several of my friends, learning 
 my delay, called to proffer the hospitalities of their 
 respective families ; but these I declined accepting, 
 as I was unwilling to repeat leave-takings. They 
 attended me, however, to the Roman Catholiv- 
 Church, a recent Gothic structure of some merit , 
 to some singeing machines, so called, where the 
 finest gauze is prepared, and receives its finish by 
 being drawn over a red-hot cylinder of iron ; to an 
 ingenious mechanical apparatus, driven by a stean? 
 engine, where linen cloths are passed through all 
 the stages of dressing, from a state of prime rough- 
 ness to final packing ; — (and the whole for the 
 moderate average price of nine shillings sterling 
 per parcel of 24 yards,) and to the lecture room 
 of Dr. * * * *, a gentleman much skilled in chemis 
 try, who politely exhibited his apparatus, and per- 
 tbrmed several curious and entertaining experiments 
 with gas. 
 
 At 4 P. M. I entered the Telegraph coach for 
 Ayr, with feelings impressed with the many and 
 
30 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 unremitting attentions which I had received since 
 the evening of my arrival in Glasgow. The coach 
 drove from the city in a cloud of dust, — an unusual 
 annoyance in my own country at this season of the 
 year. My route to tliis place was by Kingswell, 
 Fenwick, Kilmarnock, and Monkton. Five miles 
 after leaving Glasgow, I looked backed for a 
 glimpse of Ben Lomond. A gentleman had men- 
 tioned with great exactness, the spot where, if the 
 air should prove clear, it might be seen ; and had 
 apprised me of several circumstances by which to 
 determine its appearance. Beyond the Campsie 
 Fells, I discerned a towering conical height, streak- 
 ed with snow, and partially veiled in mist, which I 
 was willing to distinguish as the mountain describ- 
 ed. 
 
 For the first few miles, the country was fertile 
 and productive ; beyond that, a dreary extensive 
 tract succeeded, clothed with scanty verdure, and 
 scarcely enlivened by the smoke of a single cabin ; 
 after which, the country again improved, and con- 
 tinued to do so as the road approached Ayr. Kil- 
 marnock is a town famous for its weavers. There 
 is an iron railway, the most extensive of the kind 
 in North Britain, which has been constructed from 
 that place to the harbour of Troon, solely at the 
 expense of the duke of Portland. The town has 
 had a more than common notoriety of late, from 
 having given birth to several seditious meetings, 
 which occasioned the arrest of two or three of th^ 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 31 
 
 more suspected agents ; whose itrial, within a few 
 days, has excited a strong sensation in the metro- 
 polis, and resulted in their acquittal. On the way. 
 I saw three or four half ruinous, castellated piles 
 of building, but none of them worthy of remark. 
 It was twilight when I entered Ayr, — a pretty, 
 though irregular town. I recognized the two 
 bridges, familiarly called the ' Brigs of Ayr,' span- 
 ning the limpid waters of its interesting stream. 
 My feelings and recollections, on approaching the 
 town, were filled with Burns. — I found my friend 
 impatiently awaiting my arrival. We were soon 
 seated at a supper, which he had ordered to be 
 in readiness ; and the remainder of the evening 
 passed in various and enlivening conversation. 
 
 PORT PATRICK, APRIL 17. 
 
 We left Ayr at 7 this morning, in the pub- 
 lic coach, drawn by two horses, — a proof that 
 we were no longer in a great traveUing track. 
 The vehicle had taken the name of Diligence ; 
 a word, which every day's use along the road, 
 has contracted into the more convenient term 
 Dilly. A second view of Ayr, in the broader 
 light of day, confirmed, in some degree, the im- 
 pression which I had received of its prettiness : but, 
 owing to its partial irregularity, and a few ill con- 
 structed houses, on the whole 1 think it strikes best 
 when seen at a distance, and forming a part of the 
 landscape. It makes then a very good appearance. 
 The town of Ayr contains 5,000 inhabitants, and 
 
32 EXCURSION FROx\i 
 
 has improved much within a few years. Lately a 
 theatre has been opened in it, which allows forty 
 pounds for the full regular receipts of a night. 
 It is probably the smallest town north of the Ouse, 
 which is provided with such a luxurious append- 
 age ; and this does not speak so favourably of the 
 sober, staid habits of the people, as might be wish- 
 ed. 
 
 The morning proved uncommonly serene ; the 
 air was mild, and the ra}^* of the sun, which shone 
 with great splendor, were finely reflected from the 
 peaceful bosom of the Ayr, and the still bonnier 
 waters of the river Doon. The aspect of the 
 country for many miles, was exceedingly lovely. 
 There was more of woodland than I anticipated ; 
 and, besides frequent and detached groups of trees, 
 there were several extensive tracts which were 
 beautifully covered. The peasantry, on our leaving 
 Ayr, were seen actively at work ; the birds were 
 carroUing their matin hymns, and the breeze, as it 
 brushed over the landscape, was barely sufficient to 
 curl the smoke which ascended from the few cabins 
 that peeped from their shelters of coppice, emulous 
 to form a part in the delightful scene. 
 
 Two miles from the town, we came to the hut 
 Tvere Burns was born. It is a low thatched building 
 of a single story, forming the corner, and connected 
 by the same roof with, two or three others of a 
 similar size. A trifling bribe prevailed on the dri- 
 ver of the Dilly to stop, while my companion and 
 myself examined the interior of this humble dweV 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 33 
 
 ling. A sign is affixed to the walls without, which 
 bears the inscription which follows : — ' Burn's cot- 
 tage, — Robert Burns, the Ayrshire poet, was born 
 under this roof, on the 29th January, 1759.' Two 
 small rooms occupy the whole floor of the house j 
 in one of which, now used as a (kitchen, is a re- 
 cess where stood the bed in which the poet was 
 born. The other apartment is furnished with some 
 neatness, and boasts an engraved view of the dwel- 
 ling, and a large painting of Burns, which, from its 
 size and style of execution, seems to have been in- 
 tended for a tavern sign-board. The present occu- 
 pier of the cabin, an elderly sawney-looking man, 
 who seemed to have been never particularly ab- 
 stemious in the use of whiskey, said that it was in 
 that room that he last saw Burns, and then took a 
 dram with him ; — adding, ' poor fellow.' He seem- 
 ed nowise averse to repeating the draught even at 
 this early hour ; and, accordingly leaving him 
 enough for a double and triple portion, we mounted 
 our seats and pursued our journey. Alloway Kirk, 
 distant half a mile further, on the right, is pleasant- 
 ly situated on the margin of the .Ooon, a few yards 
 from the road. It is now unroofed. The walls, 
 however, and belfrey remain, though in a ruinous 
 state. \ small cemetery surrounds it. 
 
 The Doon is a romantic Uttle stream. Its ' banks 
 and braes' are indeed ' bonnie ;' — and we thought 
 its various beauties abundantly entitled to the prai- 
 ses which have been lavished upon them by the 
 
S4 EXCURSIOK FROM 
 
 Ayrshire bard. The view from Carrick Hill, a little 
 further on, was uncommonly pretty and extensive — 
 the scenery soft and beautifully varied. Shortly af- 
 ter, we passed the ruins of Baltarsan castle, and sub- 
 sequently at no great distance, the nobler remains 
 of Corseragwell abbey. This last, with its moulder- 
 ing towers and cloisters, and arches, its moss-grown 
 walls, and grass grown courts, was a most venerable 
 and imposing object. Its order in a florid Gothic. 
 The road the greater part of the day, followed 
 closely the windings of the coast. The large rocky 
 island of Arran, streaked with snow, the tall, stern 
 cliff of Ailsea, and the abrupt iron-bounded shore of 
 Kantyre, continued in sight for many miles. 
 
 Leaving Kirk-Oswald, a pretty place on the sea- 
 coast, where we breakfasted, the country became 
 much more hilly ; and beyond Girvan, ten miles fur- 
 ther, it assumed a very wild aspect. The soil was 
 poor, and covered with slight verdure. A few 
 sheep only were browsing among the heath and 
 broom. For some miles, our path led us along a 
 ledge which was cut from the precipice that shelved 
 abruptly to the water's edge. We noticed many 
 ravines, or fissures, at intervals, in the hilly ridge on 
 our left, some of great depth. It was common also 
 to see streams, or rather burns^ as they are termed, 
 gushing through these openings and producing a fine 
 effect. Several sea-views were very magnificent. 
 
 We dined at a miserable inn at Ballantrae, and 
 had as miserable fare. My food consisted of barley- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 35 
 
 broth, oatmeal cakes and eggs. Leaving Ballantrae, 
 the country became much more wild and bleak, than 
 even it had appeared before. The hills were scan- 
 tily covered with furze, and exhibited barely a few 
 patches o^ heather. We entered a deep glen, where 
 scarcely a single habitation was to be seen, which 
 extended for three or four miles, till it terminated 
 with a full view of the waters of Loch Ryan. The 
 first sight of the lake, though it served to vary, could 
 hardly be said to relieve the scene. As we proceed- 
 ed, however, the hills near the loch, began to be 
 covered with birches and broom ; and the road gra- 
 dually became pleasanter, as it followed its margin 
 — a firm, smooth beach, to Stranraer, a distance of 
 nine miles. This town stands at the head of the 
 lake, and is large and neat. Loch Ryan itself, is 
 an estuary, extending nine or ten miles into the 
 main land, and occupying a breadth of three or four. 
 It would be tolerably pretty, if the country on each 
 side of it were productive and well managed. A 
 few boats, which we saw near Stranraer, skimming 
 the surface of the lake, gave to the scene consider- 
 able expression. 
 
 From S. to Port Patrick, the road was good, and 
 the country much improved. Two miles from Port 
 P. we came in sight of St. George's channel, and 
 saw distinctly beyond, in the horizon, the coast of Ire- 
 land ; the first time of my seeing it since losing sight 
 of the Wicklow mountains, while on my passage to 
 Liverpool. Again, I beheld it with pleasure. We 
 
36 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 find Port Patrick a neat and rather romantic village, 
 built under an amphitheatre of hills, and extending 
 round a small cove in a semicircular form. The 
 harbour is well protected, and is almost enclosed 
 by high ledges of rocks, which jut from the 
 mainland, and exhibit some singular and fantastic 
 shapes. We alighted at a small, but comfort- 
 able inn, where the people are all civility. A 
 cheerful fire of peat blazed in the grate, which 
 indicatec^ our vicinity to Ireland. We have learnt 
 that the packet for Donaghadee, will not sail 
 till 12 o'clock, to-morrow. An opportunity, howev- 
 er, was presented to cross the channel this evening, 
 in a return carrier-smack. The master of th'^ ves- 
 sel was very urgent that we should take passage 
 with him, and offered to accommodate us for a sum 
 much less than the regular packet fare. We had 
 several reasons for declining the proposal. It is 
 sufficient to say, that a journey of fifty-six miles over 
 7k rugged tract of country, added to the known com- 
 forts of an English Inn, left us little inclination to pur- 
 sue immediately our course, whether by sea or land 
 — much less to relinquish the prospect of a luxuri- 
 ous bed, for a straitened birth in a miserable cabin.* 
 The night is dark, and indicates hard weather. De- 
 termining accordingly, to make the best of our situ- 
 ation, we have ordered such comforts as the inn af- 
 
 * As the event proved, however, if we had accepted the ofter. 
 ■^.ve should have gained thirty hours on our route. 
 
EDIKBURGH TO DUBLIN. 37 
 
 fords, and are now employing the evening in conver- 
 sation or in writing. 
 
 BAY OF PORT PATRICK, APRIL 18 — JVOOBT. ^ 
 
 I have just come on board the Westmoreland pack- 
 et, for Donaghadee, and am attempting, with a miser- 
 able pen which I found in the cabin, to fill up my 
 journal. This morning I walked round the village of 
 Port P. and climbed one of the hills which environ 
 it. The bold, rocky shore which forms its harbour, 
 struck my fancy very much. Ireland appeared in 
 full view to the west. At 12, we took tickets for a 
 passage in the packet for Donaghadee. The price 
 of them was an half guinea each, exclusive of two or 
 three minor charges. We are now standing ovei 
 slowly to the Irish coast. The wind is ahead and 
 light, and we shall not probably arrive there under 
 several hours. The British coast is gradually reced- 
 ing, and the Irish slowly enlarging on the view. 1 
 left the former with some emotion — ^impatient to step 
 foot upon the ' land of sweet Erin' ; a country 
 where I expect to find much that is new to amuse 
 and instruct me. 
 
 Previously to taking a short farewell of Scotland, 
 I will retrace one or two recollections of recent date. 
 — I had occasion yesterday, to remark a singular re- 
 semblance between a real and an imagined scene. 
 Everj^ reader of novels, as well as of graver descrip- 
 tive works, insensibly pictures to his fancy the vari- 
 ous scenes which the author attempts to represent. 
 
 4 
 
38 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 No matter whether the views which he forms, ac- 
 cord with those of the writer, or not. To himself, 
 they are consistent, intelhgible, and unconfused. 
 His fancy spreads a map where each object has its 
 known and determined place, and should years inter- 
 vene, between the delineation and its remembrance, 
 the whole would rise, at the powerful bidding of 
 some association, fresh, and as mechanically upon 
 the view, as the drop and sliding scenes of theatric 
 representation obey the shifting cords of the attend- 
 ant. I need not say after this, that I have hereto- 
 fore been conversant with tales of fancy, but pro- 
 ceed to add, that Loch Ryan, whose dreary ex- 
 panse of waters I yesterday first descried, a few 
 miles distant from Stranraer, strongly reminded me of 
 the idea which I had long ago formed of a lake men- 
 tioned in a certain popular romance, to a castle near 
 which the heroine is related to have been carried. 
 There was the same cheerless, sterile aspect in the 
 country around, which I conceived to enclose the 
 supposed water in the romance to which I allude. 
 The rocks seemed to project in the same rude and 
 bold manner from the main land ; and I almost ex- 
 pected to see the appalling figure of some Father 
 Schedoni stalking amidst the gloom of the impending 
 crags. 
 
 But another and a more interesting recollection 
 w^as this morning suggested to my mind, while tread- 
 ing the hills of Port Patrick. I remembered that it 
 was there, the celebrated colonel Gardiner, in the 
 intervals of his engagements with the duties of a gar- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 39 
 
 rlson, had often walked and enjoyed those ravishing, 
 pious meditations, which his letters more than once 
 intimate, and which the glowing pen of Doddridge 
 has feelingly depicted. One passage, in a letter of 
 that eminent believer, I well remembered. — ' I took 
 a walk,'' said he, upon one occasion, ' upon the moun- 
 tains which are over against Ireland; and I persuade 
 myself, that were I capable of giving you a descrip- 
 tion of what passed there, 3^ou would say that I had 
 much better reason to remember my God, from the 
 hills of Port Patrick, than David from the land of 
 Jordan and of the Hermonites.' This passage, which 
 forcibly expressed the ardours of his piety, induced 
 a train of reflections, which it would be foreign to 
 my purpose here to introduce ; reflections, however, 
 which touched upon most of the facts of his singular 
 and unearthly history, and which terminated, as ev- 
 ery former review has done, in the conviction, that 
 in more than one event of that extraordinary man's 
 life, we may trace the indisputable interposition of 
 the ' finger of God.' 
 
 7 P. M. — I change a bad pen, and still more 
 miserable ink, for a pencil, but little better. For 
 the last several hours we have been becalmed, and 
 have barely moved six miles from Port P. — At pre- 
 sent there is scarcely a breath of air stirring, and 
 what is worse, there is no immediate prospect of an 
 increase. To add to the uneasiness of our situation, 
 no stores were provided by us this morning, and it 
 was an early hour when we breakfasted. The half- 
 
40 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 guinea which we paid on coming on board, merely 
 secures a passage ; every thing else being expected 
 to be provided by the passenger. It did not occur to 
 us to ascertain this before our departure ; and even if 
 it had, it is doubtful whether we should have made 
 any provision, as the prospect was, that we should 
 be in Ireland in a few hours ; and we were told that 
 no passage had exceeded half a day for six months. 
 Inquiring of the skipper, if there were any stores 
 in the vessel, I found nothing except oatcakes and 
 some shreds of salt heef; no biscuit, no ale, no beer. 
 There is whiskey, indeed, but that I never drink — 
 and water, which is not fit to be tasted. I gave 
 the man, however a doceur^ desiring him to fur- 
 nish what he could, and have just come up from 
 inspecting, (for I can hardly say feeding upon) the 
 banquet. It consisted of a jug of water, a broken 
 plate of oatcakes, and two or three strips of greasy 
 beef, which in appearance, and for ought I know, in 
 taste, resembled the braids of a drayman's whip-lash. 
 A single jack-knife completed the furniture of the 
 table. Hungry as I was, a piece of oatcake was all 
 I could eat, and I have just left the cabin, with the 
 apprehension, that if the calm continues a day lon- 
 ger, there will inevitably be a famine on board. 
 
 These oatcakes, for which Scotland is renowned, 
 are at best an indifferent diet. As made by some of 
 the better families, they become barely tolerable ; 
 but in general they are poor enough. It is usual to 
 find them a quarter or half an inch in thickness. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 41 
 
 The meal of which they are composed is very 
 coarse ; and so dry are they, that unless the fauces 
 are lubricated by some solvent draught, immediate- 
 ly on eating a piece, a stranger may come well nigh 
 being choked 1 have sometimes, when a little 
 thirsty, inadvertently taken a piece of this bread into 
 my mouth, without having any water or other liquid 
 just at hand, and on the first attempt at mastication, 
 have had my throat filled with the dust, and have 
 felt it insinuating itself into every pore and vesicle 
 of my lungs. The dough which is made of the bran 
 of Indian corn, and given to poultry, by the farmers 
 of America, would, if baked upon a tin, form a bread 
 not unlike, 1 can conceive^ the oatcakes of Scotland, 
 — certainly not inferior to them in qualit}^ 
 
 Mr. H. * * * * and myself, are the only cabin pas- 
 sengers. There are many others in the vessel, but 
 they belong to the steerage. Seven or eight of 
 these are women, of whom, two or three have chil- 
 dren. I am now seated on the binnacle, over the 
 companion-way. A group of these women are sit- 
 ting a few feet to my right, upon the main deck, 
 under the long-boat ; each exhibiting a countenance 
 which Hogarth might have taken for a caricature of 
 wo. Another woman, who has been extremely sick, 
 is at present lying under the gunwale before me, 
 asleep, and breathing with a most musical nasal ca- 
 dence — the helmsman at my left, is standing listless 
 over the tiller, casting an apparentl}^ vacant gaze 
 around, but hoping, no doubt, that every passing 
 
 4 *■ 
 
4;^ EXCURSIOIS FRO.M 
 
 cloud will bring with it wind. H. * * * * is leaning 
 over the bulwarks, half inclined to give up to sickness, 
 which has been threatening him ever since he came 
 on board. The sailors are carousing in the forecas- 
 tle ; the confused sounds of their merriment are one 
 moment swelling upon the ear, and the next, sink- 
 ing away, till a new ebullition of wit produces a 
 fresh shout of laughter. ' Having worn out my own 
 pencil, I have borrowed that of my companion, and 
 am employing it merely for the sake of beguiling 
 time. As it is becoming cool, however, I have de- 
 termined to go below, to try by sleep, to cheat time 
 more effectually, in hopes that a few hours will pro- 
 duce some change, or rather an increase in the 
 wind. 
 
 April 19, 5 A. M. — I have just come on deck, af- 
 ter a broken night's rest. A breeze has sprung up, 
 and we are this moment entering the small bay of 
 Donaghadee. The men are employed in handing 
 the sails. — The town of Donaghadee is neat in its 
 appearance ; the houses are white-washed, which 
 seems one indication of our having crossed the chan- 
 nel. The fields are green ; and I perceive, what I 
 did not expect, a few trees along the coast. The 
 skipper has gone below for our baggage, and the 
 boat is getting ready to take us ashore. 
 
 DOBTAGHADEE, 6 A. M. 
 
 A few moments after, we found ourselves on land. 
 There is a magic in that word ; and the embarrass- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 43 
 
 ing situation in which we were placed, on board the 
 packet, did not diminish the joy which we felt in 
 realizing a change. We were threatened with some 
 difficulty at the Custom-house, in having our lug- 
 gage passed — and were told that we must wait till 
 the officer was risen, which would not be till nine. 
 A shilling, however, obviated the hindrance, and 
 shortly after, we were conducted to the small inn 
 where I am at present writing. 
 
 On entering a house, for the first time, in a 
 strange country, it is natural to look around in search 
 of something new. As I came into our present sit- 
 ting-room, the tirst, of course, which I have seen in 
 Ireland, 1 glanced my eye hastily over it, but saw 
 nothing particularly to distinguish it from a com- 
 fortable apartment, of a similar size, in any common 
 American house. Two or three well-rubbed tables, 
 and half a dozen hair-bottomed chairs are ranged 
 round the room, and a small fire of peat burns in 
 the grate. The last, it is true, differs from our 
 generous wood fires. We have just risen from a 
 frugal, but well-served breakfast, consisting of eggs, 
 tea, dry toast, excellent butter and cream. The 
 people of the house are very civil — we have made 
 an arrangement to leave this place forthwith, in the 
 stage-coach for Belfast. The horn is this moment 
 sounding, a summons to ' gang awa,' 
 
44 EXCURSION FROi¥ 
 
 BELFAST, DONJTEGAIiL ARMS, aUARTER PAST 10 A. M. 
 
 Leaving Donaghadee, I mounted the top of the 
 coach, and occupied a seat with the guard. We 
 passed, near the town, a high conical mound, resemh- 
 ling the Silbury-hill Barrow, on the great SaHsbury 
 downs, in England. The guard said that all he knevT 
 about it was, that it was thrown up by the ancient 
 inhabitants of this part of the island, ' to intrench 
 themselves from the enemy.' My itinerary states 
 that it is of Danish origin. The country through 
 which we passed, appeared generally much richer, 
 and in higher cultivation than any I have seen in 
 Scotland, except the Lothians and Roxburghshire. 
 Instead of stone walls, which accompanied us most 
 of the way from Kilmarnock to Port Patrick wher6 
 the land was divided at all, we perceived pretty em- 
 bankments of earth, about three or four feet high, 
 clothed with verdant turf, and sometimes topped 
 with rows of hawthorn. These, enclosmg the fields, 
 and intersecting the country in every direction, add- 
 ed much to the enamelled beauty of the landscape. 
 The fields too, we noticed, were of a much deeper 
 green than those which we had left in Scotland, — 
 while the houses presented often very striking con- 
 trasts to each other. Some of them were uncommon- 
 ly mean and comfortless; and many, on the other 
 hand, remarkable for their neatness. The former 
 were generally low, of a single story, frequently 
 constructed of mud, and having thatched roofs, with 
 tiled or ground floors. The better houses were 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 45 
 
 white-washed, and surrounded with parterres of 
 gooseberry and flowering shrubs. We saw heaps of 
 turf, seemingly the only fuel, piled in the yards of 
 most of the dwellings. It gave us pleasure to see 
 some windmills also, — a novel sight to us who have 
 just come from Scotland. They contributed to impart 
 an air of industry and bustle to the landscape. Ban- 
 gor, the town through which we first passed, after leav- 
 ing Donaghadee, is rather large and populous. It has 
 a fine church, which resembles, I thought, though on 
 a smaller scale, the celebrated church at Ross, in 
 Gloucestershire, whose tower. Pope has significantly 
 denominated the ' heaven directed spire.' Between 
 Newtonards and Ballyrogan we passed Derry house, 
 the ancient seat of the earls of Londonderry, the 
 ancestors of Lord Castlereagh, and the place where 
 that distinguished nobleman was born. It is situated 
 not far from Lough Strangford. 
 
 Before leaving Glasgow, I purchased an Highland 
 cap, or bonnet, as it is called, for the convenience of 
 wearing in travelling. It is frequently seen in the 
 Lowlands, and is more comfortable in a carriage than 
 a round hat. It excited, however, more attention than 
 I could have wished. It has so happened that the 42d 
 and 92d Highland regiments are ordered to this coun- 
 try, by the way of Port Patrick. The former were on 
 the point of leaving Glasgow at the time that we did, 
 and the latter had actually marched from Edinburgh, 
 several days before. My bonnet, accordingly, which at 
 another time would have passed unobserved, has led 
 
46 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 many to suppose me to belong to the army. While 
 on my route from Glasgow, I heard several times the 
 expression, as I was passing, ' There goes a Water- 
 loo cap.' The landlord of Port Patrick at first took 
 me for an Highland officer ; and on the morning that 
 I embarked, I was several times asked if I was 
 attached to that body of military, which was ex- 
 pected to cross over that day. A similar mistake 
 prevailed on my reaching the opposite shore, and 
 many questions were put concerning the move- 
 ments of the two regiments. It was not in 
 every instance that I cared about undeceiving the 
 inquirer ; for, in the first place, it did no good, and 
 in the second, a positive benefit was otherwise 
 gained. For such is the high character which 
 these troops have obtained by their brave and gal- 
 lant conduct, that they are every where welcomed 
 with demonstrations of respect ; although many of 
 the Irish have reason to look upon them with some 
 distrust, 9§ coming to quell and overawe the spirit 
 of sedition. Their places in Scotland are supplied 
 by the Connaught rangers, and other Irish contin- 
 gents ; an excellent policy on the part of govern- 
 ment, to prevent a too cordial sympathy between the 
 soldiery of a garrison and the neighbouring commu- 
 nity, and particularly with the state prisoners, who, 
 by virtue of the present suspension of the habeas 
 corpus, are frequently seized on suspicion, and whom, 
 the former are appointed to guard. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 4T 
 
 For the last few miles before arriving at Belfast, I 
 took a seat in the inside of the coach, and found there 
 an elderly, pleasant, well-dressed man, with whom I 
 soon entered into an agreeable conversation. He 
 also took me to be an Highland officer ; but I prefer- 
 red to set him right upon this point, although 1 left 
 him to suppose me a Scotchman, and, as I afterwards 
 perceived from his conversation, a native of Edin- 
 burgh. The mistake led to some remarks connect- 
 ed with himself. He had been in the army former- 
 ly ; and having served in the American revolutionary 
 war, amused me much by some information which he 
 undertook to give respecting my countrymen — or 
 ' the rebels,' as he pertinaciously called them. He 
 gave me an account of Boston, and its prodigious long 
 wharf, the greatest, he said, that he had ever seen. 
 He spoke of Bunker's hill, and described the action 
 which was fought there. — He accounted for the un- 
 usually large number of officers killed on that occa- 
 sion, by saying, that many of the younger of them, 
 several of whom were of his own acquaintance, 
 volunteered to go out and witness the fun with the 
 Yankees^ as they expressed it ; and, of course, the 
 whole number was uncommonly and disproportiona- 
 bly great. He did not think that the Americans dis- 
 covered much gallantry in any action in which he saw 
 them engaged. The militia, and other hasty levies, 
 behaved often, he said, very shamefull3^ 
 
 I asked if the Americans were, on the whole, 
 pretty well civilized ; adding, that I supposed they 
 
48 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 were much behind our countrymen, (meaning those 
 of the united kingdom.) ' Why, sir,' said he, ' I 
 don't know that ; but I am far from thinking it. 
 They have in America, some cities as fine as you 
 may see in any part of Europe. At least this was 
 getting to be the case when 1 was there, thirty years 
 or more ago ; and they must have improved very 
 much since. In my belief, sir, if you were dropped 
 from the clouds upon the older settlements of Ame- 
 rica, particularly in the northern provinces^^ and 
 were not previously to be informed on what part of 
 the globe you were to be set down, you would not 
 know that you were out of your own country.^ — 1 
 thought so too, but did not mention the additional 
 grounds which I had for entertaining the opinion. 
 
 The guard of the coach, whom I have already 
 mentioned, I found possessed of some dry humour, 
 and a gpod deal of honest feeling. He told me, 
 that he should return with the coach to Donaghadee 
 at 12 this day, (a distance, as we came, of eighteen 
 or twenty miles,) and that, in this manner, he had 
 been going backwards and forwards between the two 
 places for nearly three years. ' I am downright 
 sick of it, sir,' said he, ' and cannot stand it much 
 longer. 'Tis the hardest work that I ever had yet. 
 Oftentimes I have little or nothing to do for the 
 whole distance, but to sit still and look about ; and 
 I know every bunch of thorn along the road. If I 
 
 * i. e. States. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIx^f. 49 
 
 had alvvajs a pleasant gentleman like you, or that 
 other young gentleman forward, who would converse 
 with me, I should be satisfied.' I asked him if he 
 did not like Ireland ? — ' 1 ought^ sir.' ' Ought, but 
 don't you ?' — '• I ought, sir, I say again, but 1 like 
 England better, and Scotland too, Scotland 1 like 
 better.' ' How happens that ?' — ' Why there, there 
 are good people who would have kept me from 
 going astray. I have been a wild dog in my day, 
 sir, and I am certain I should have been better, had 
 there been any here to check me.' ' Do you mean 
 that the people in Ireland are all bad ?' — ' Why no, 
 sir, not quite that ; they mean well enough, I suppose, 
 but they are all too much in the harum-scarum line^ 
 like myself. The old people never stopped mo 
 when I went wrong, but were alwa3's ready to join 
 in any deviltry that I was about. I have been a 
 sad dog,' he repeated, ' but would give (if 1 had 
 them,) an hundred thousand guineas — bnnging his 
 hand with great force upon his knee — ^ would give 
 an hundred thousand guineas, if 1 were a good man 
 now.' ' Oh, well,' said I, ' if you wish it so strongh'-, 
 I have great hopes that you will be so soon.' — 
 ' Would that I might, sir ; and I am tJmiking of it 
 every day as I am passing along this road. But I 
 keep putting it off — 'tis my nature, sir.' 
 
 ' I am glad,' said I, ' that you like my country.' 
 • What, England, sir ? You're from England ?' — 
 'Scotland, surely,' said I. 'That can't be, sir; 
 you're from Edinburgh then ? but after all, I suspect 
 
50 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 you're an Englishman.' ' Why true, I was in En- 
 gland first, but I have been in Scotland for some 
 time.' ' Ah now, sir,' said he, ' don't expect to 
 catch a weasel asleep in the morning. I knew you 
 were an Englishman when you first spoke.' 
 
 His name is George Sloans. He was born in 
 Antrim, had served in the army, and was quartered 
 at York, Newcastle, and North and South Shields. 
 At the latter place, he said that he had passed the 
 happiest part of his life. ' In the first place I was 
 appointed sergeant, and was very much respected ; 
 next, it was my business to oversee the putting up 
 of a small bit of a fort there ; so I had nothing to do 
 but to hold my head up — put my hands so' — (placing 
 them a kimbo,) ' walk about — give my orders^ and go 
 into the water just when I pleased."^ — He appeared to 
 be turned of fifty-five, and had a frank, careless air 
 and countenance. His brogue was not very percep- 
 tible, and his English, in other respects good. 
 
 DUBLIN, APRIL 21, EVENING. 
 
 After writing the above, objects crowded so rapidly 
 upon me, and it took so much time to attempt giving 
 any correction to my journal, or preserving even 
 sketches of what transpired, that I was obliged to 
 defer the labour, and only note a few hints which I 
 shall now attempt to dilate. 
 
 We had letters in Belfast to two gentlemen, each 
 highly respectable in their professions ; one a clergy- 
 man, and the other a physician. Enough was said 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIX. 51 
 
 for the eulogium of the former, in a single remark 
 which was made by the fellow passenger who accom- 
 panied us, as I have mentioned, to Belfast. I inquired 
 if he knew Dr. B * * * * ? — ' Know him, sir,' said 
 he, ' every body knows him about here.' He then 
 mentioned, what, indeed, I had learnt before, that 
 the gentleman was distinguished for his philanthropy, 
 and was held in great estimation throughout this 
 whole section of country. Unfortunately for us, 
 they were both out when we called ; the physician 
 being absent on a journey, and the other gentleman 
 being in attendance, in an official capacity, at a 
 meeting of the directors of some charitable institu- 
 tion, from which he was not expected to be released 
 till a late hour in the day. We were introduced, 
 however, to his family ; and they evinced a de-lx^ 
 to show us many civilities, which our arrangements 
 did not permit us to accept. Mr. B * * * *, son to 
 the Rev. Dr. and a merchant by profession, politely 
 conducted us round the city. We visited with him, 
 the quays, the exchange, the custom-house, the inte- 
 rior of St. George's chapel, — an elegant structure ; — 
 the library, and the subscription reading-room. Our 
 names were entered on the books of the two last, 
 which gave a right to use for a month to come, any 
 of the papers or volumes belonging to each institu- 
 tion. Our plans precluded our accepting further 
 civihties — for such had been the vexatious delay 
 occasioned by our passage across the channel, that 
 we were determined to continue our journey ^^ 
 
£2 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 soon as might be ; and besides, Vv'e were particularly 
 desirous of passing the following day, which was 
 Sunday, in DubUn. 
 
 Belffist is a populous, well-built town, containing 
 thirty thousand inhabitants, of whom, four thousand 
 are Roman Catholics. It is situated at the head of 
 the Carrickfergus bay, on the river Lagan, which 
 there discharges itself. Over this stream, there has 
 lately been constructed a magnificent stone bridge, 
 of twenty-one arches ; three of which are in the 
 county of Antrim, the others in Down. The houses 
 are chiefly built of bricks, instead of freestone, as in 
 the Scotch cities ; and these are not of the dingy 
 colour common in England, but are of a bright red, 
 and in some instances painted. Belfast has an ex- 
 tensive commerce, but trades chiefly, I believe, with 
 the West Indies. Its manufactures are very consi- 
 derable ; the principal branch consists in the weav- 
 ing of linens and cottons ; but the cotton manufac- 
 ture is becoming, I was told, rather the more 
 flourishing. 
 
 Vv'e took a hasty dinner at Belfast, and remarked 
 that the potatoes were no better than in America. — 
 At 4 P. M. we entered the stage-coach for Dublin, 
 distant eighty miles. The whole day had proved 
 iine, but what remained of it was beautiful. Our 
 first stage was to Lisburn, a neat and pretty town. 
 Several villages, which we passed on the way there, 
 pleased us very much. The country from Belfast 
 to Lisburn, and thence to Dromore, is most lovely. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 53 
 
 It has been well called the garden of Ireland ; there 
 being no spot of the same extent, in any part of the 
 isle, which possesses equal beauty with this district 
 in Ulster. We saw a number of fine seats be- 
 longing to the nobiUty and more opulent gentry ; 
 and near Hillsborough, passed the palace of the 
 bishop of Dromore, lately the residence of the 
 lamented Dr. Percy. 
 
 . Beggars were frequent along the route. At the 
 town of Dromore, while we were stopping to take 
 a fresh relay, I was accosted by one, with — ' Heaven 
 bless you, dear sir ; pray give a poor old woman 
 one ha'-penny to keep her from starving — an' plase 
 your honour, an happy eternity be with you — one 
 single ha'-penny ; — may you never want for money 
 nor meat, your honour — only one ha'-penny, dear.' 
 — I threw her a few pence, and the coach drove off. 
 It was common to see by the way-side, mounds 
 called here raths, all resembling tumuli, or the 
 larger barrows which abound in the south of En- 
 gland. They seem to be of great age, and are 
 mostly referred by antiquaries to periods even 
 earlier than the Danish invasion. The better kinds 
 of cottages which we saw, were very comfortable in 
 appearance ; all of them were well white-washed, 
 and generally, they had little gardens or shrubberies 
 before them. The fields displaj-ed a deeper ver- 
 dure than it is usual to see in America : — many of 
 the trees were in full leaf, and vegetation of all 
 kinds had made a considerable progress. Several 
 
 5* 
 
54 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 ruinous piles of antique structures were passed, but 
 none of them possessed much interest. A little 
 before ten in the evening, we entered Newrj, 
 thirty miles from Belfast, and there stopped to sup. 
 
 At half past ten, we again entered the coach, and 
 resumed our journey towards this city. The night 
 was clear — the stars sparkled with unusual lustre, — 
 and the coach-lamps admitted our seeing every thing 
 immediately along the road, with tolerable distinct- 
 ness. Our route from Newry was by Dundaik, 
 Castle Bellingham, Dunleer, Drogheda, Balruddery, 
 and Swords. It gave us pleasure to be informed that 
 we should lose nothing of particular interest, for 
 the next twenty-five miles. Between Newry and 
 Dundaik, we travelled over some high and rugged 
 ground — the road chiefly ascending for the first five 
 miles, and descending the remaining five. At Dun- 
 daik, a very pleasant and intelligent gentleman 
 joined us, and continued in company till our arrival 
 here. He was returning from the north, where he 
 had been on a visit to the Giant's Causeway ; — and 
 gave much information respecting the comparative 
 state of Ulster, and also of Leinster, another of the 
 four Irish provinces, which we were just entering. 
 
 Day dawned upon us at half past three ; half an 
 hour before our arrival at Drogheda. That town is 
 large, and the streets through which we drove, 
 appeared well built ; chiefly of brick. It is situated 
 on the Boyne, a river famous for the battle which 
 was fought on its banks in 1690, by king William 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 55 
 
 against the forces of James 2d. The field of action 
 was two miles distant from Drogheda, up the river. 
 A splendid monument marks the spot. I beheld the 
 stream with interest ; and recalled the emotions 
 which I had often felt in my early boyhood on lis- 
 tening to the fine tune of the ' Boyne Water.' 
 
 At Swords we saw a remarkably curious tower, 
 the date and precise object of which are wholly 
 unknown. It is built of stone, and is seventy or 
 eighty feet in height. It tapers gradually from the 
 base, and is of narrow circuit compared with its 
 altitude. There are a number of loop-holes cut 
 through its walls similar to those seen in the old 
 English feudal castles.* Near it are the ruins of a 
 church, the tower of which is very perfect ; — and at 
 a little remove further the noble remains of an 
 immense structure, which, from the parapets upon 
 the walls and the embattled turrets at the angles, 
 several of which remain entire, — seems to have 
 been a castle, formerly of great strength. There 
 are several other mutilated edifices around, and 
 some small mounds, or raths. Swords was formerly 
 
 * Since writing the above I have conversed with two or three 
 gentlemen, who have inquired much into the antiquities of 
 Ireland, respecting this and similar towers v.-hich are found in 
 the country. They confirm the opinion that they defy all 
 satisfactory research : — but think that they are Druidical struc- 
 tures, originally intended as places of worship. Their date 
 therefore, they suppose, to be anterior to the introduction ff 
 ■cluistiaaity into Ireland. (Dubliriy April 28.) 
 
56 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 a city of great consequence, and the seat, if I mistake 
 not, of the ancient kings of Leinster and Ulster. It 
 is now very much reduced, and exhibits little else 
 than the ruins of its former grandeur. 
 
 The remainder of our ride to Dublin, distant 
 eight miles was through a pleasing and picturesque 
 country : — rather too flat perhaps, but diversified 
 with some gentle swells — A range of high grounds, 
 or mountains, bounded the prospect to the west and 
 north. Three miles from Dublin, we first came in 
 sight of this magnificent city. The view was 
 striking, although not quite as much so as was 
 anticipated. As we approached, however, it im- 
 proved very much. The houses appeared regularly 
 built, and evidently not so high as many in Edin- 
 burgh. They are composed of brick chiefly ; and 
 give a fine relief to the deep verdure of the parks 
 and pleasure grounds which environ the city. We 
 did not perceive so many spires and domes rising 
 from the town, as we wished and indeed expected to 
 see. The suburbs also through which we drove 
 were far from looking well ; and in fact would have 
 disappointed us exceedingly had we not have been 
 prepared for seeing them. But on escaping these, 
 we entered some fine streets, and soon came into 
 Rutland-Square, which was magnificent indeed. The 
 trees and small-wood in the central area were in full 
 leaf. We proceeded next through Sackville-street, 
 resembling, though not quite so broad, the upper 
 part of Market-street in Philadelphia. A noble 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 57 
 
 monument is erected at the head of it in honour of 
 Nelson ; — on the four sides of the pedestal of which, 
 the names of St. Vincent, Nile, Copenhagen and 
 Trafalgar are severally inscribed. I estimated its 
 height at 150 feet. Similar, though not quite so 
 costly monument^) in memory of this hero, I meet 
 every where in the Three Kingdoms. Leaving this, 
 we crossed the Litfey by the Carlisle-bridge, entered 
 Westmoreland-street and soon found ourselves in a 
 spacious area which we easily distinguished as the 
 College-green. Here I alighted with Mr. H * * * * ; 
 — and having ordered a porter, we repaired to the 
 Commercial Buildings ; a splendid hotel, which was 
 a few yards distant. 
 
 We were surprised on coming into this city, to find 
 many shops open, (it being Sunday.) and numbers of 
 people employed apparently as in week days. Our 
 fellow passenger had apprised us that this would be 
 the case ; and explained it by saying that a large 
 proportion of the population of Dublin was compos- 
 ed of Roman Catholics, who thought that by observ- 
 ing some of the forms prescribed by the church, a 
 full dispensation might be claimed for these licentious 
 practices. 
 
 After breakfast, we walked to Trinity College, to 
 attend divine service in the chapel. It commenced 
 at half past nine. Many students were presrnt; at- 
 tired' in white habits, and having the same caps 
 which are worn by the members of Fngi'ish Univer- 
 sities. A black gown is the designating dress on 
 
#8 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 week days. The service was the same with that in 
 the cathedral churches in England. An excellent 
 sermon was delivered hy a gentleman, formerly a 
 fellow in the college, and now settled in some coun- 
 try benefice. The chanting and singing pleased us 
 very much. The chapel is large, and has an high 
 vaulted ceiling. Its order is Ionic ; two pilasters of 
 this kind occupying the spaces between each window. 
 The ceiling is finely stuccoed, and the whole is rich- 
 ly ornamented. In fact, the brilliant white of the 
 walls, contrasted with the crimson curtains of the 
 window, gave to the chapel an appearance, I thought, 
 rather too gaudy for a place of christian worship. 
 
 Understanding that the anniversary sermon before 
 the Charitable Orphan Institution was to be preached 
 at St. Peter's church at twelve, and that the lord lieu- 
 tenant* was to be present, and, what is unusual, to 
 come instate, we repaired there immediately on leav- 
 ing the college chapel. The cavalcade of his excel- 
 lency passed us, while on our walk and within a short 
 distance of the church. A troop of cavalry preceded 
 it ; followed by three coaches, in which were some 
 of the officers of the lord lieutenant's household. 
 Next came his own carriage drawn by six horses, 
 superbly caparisoned. — Four powdered footmen in 
 state liveries stood behind ; who, with the driver 
 and outriders, more resembled stage pageants than 
 men in real life. The lord lieutenant was accompa- 
 
 * The Earl of Whitworth ; late Ambassador to France. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 69 
 
 nied in his coach by his wife, (the dutchess of Dor- 
 set,) his chaplain, and an officer in full dress uniform 
 whose name and rank we did not learn. Several oth- 
 er carriages closed the procession. A detachment 
 of soldiers was drawn up to receive the lord lieu- 
 tenant before the door of the church ; and he alight- 
 ed amidst a salute of arms, and the flourish of drums 
 and trumpets. The ceremony was repeated when 
 he returned from church : the guard keeping duty 
 in the mean while at the door. 
 
 We were fortunate in procuring a pass, and in 
 getting good stations in the church. The lord 
 lieutenant is a fine looking man, and appears 
 about fifty five. His person is tall and rather 
 slender ; but graceful and erect. His countenance 
 possessed something which brought to mind very 
 much that of the present Governor of Massa- 
 chusetts. The contour of the t<wo faces is very 
 like. The lord lieutenant was dressed in a splen- 
 did uniform of red and buff, and wore a star on 
 his left breast. His coat was faced with blue ; and 
 over it was a military frock coat of the same colour. 
 The dress of the lady lieutenant was very rich, but 
 there was nothing particular to mark it. It resem- 
 bled that of any fashionable lady, on a parade occa- 
 sion, in our simple republic. Her countenance was 
 agreeable and indicative of benevolence : rather good 
 humoured, than positively handsome. The lord 
 lieutenant and the dutchess occupied front seats in 
 the gallery, hung with crimson cloth fringed with 
 
60 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 gold. Their attendants waited behind. They gave 
 great attention to the whole service ; the former 
 particularly. Prayers were read for him under the 
 title of ' His excellency the Lord Lieutenant general 
 and Governor general of Ireland.' 
 
 The orphans, in number 200, occupied seats in an 
 opposite gallery. They were neatly attired, and all 
 appeared of an age between seven and fourteen. 
 They accompanied the organ with their voices, and 
 the music was uncommonly fine. The church of 
 England service we had the pleasure to hear read 
 by the ingenious Mr. Maturin, curate of St. Peters ; 
 and an appropriate discourse was prefiched by Mr. 
 
 D. from the words, ' The Lord is my Shepherd.' 
 
 Mr. D. is a popular clergyman and deservedly 
 
 so. In the course of the service, the orphans de- 
 scended from the gallery, and entered, unobserved, 
 the floor of the chfrrch bj another passage, and walk- 
 ed slowly in review, two by two, singing a hymn 
 prepared for the occasion. It was a most interest- 
 ing, I had almost said, a painful spectacle, and was 
 sufficient to draw a tear from every eye. The col- 
 lection after the services were over, was liberal ; it 
 could not be otherwise. 
 
 From St. Peter^s we went to the Cathedral of St. 
 Patrick, the service of which commenced at 3, P. 
 M. and was conducted throughout in a most slovenly 
 and careless manner, as well by the officiating cler«- 
 gyman, as the congregation. The latter, particular- 
 ly the ladies, were smiling and conversing in audible 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 61 
 
 whispers with each other; or looking about with an 
 air of nonchalance during the whole of the exercis- 
 es. Here however, as at the College chapel in the 
 morning-, the music was very good : and the organ 
 was better played than I remember to have heard, 
 except in the cathedral of Durham. The excel- 
 lence of the music led me to notice the perform- 
 ers : and it struck me that they were the same who 
 had borne a part in the chapel services. On in- 
 quiry I learnt that it was actually the same choir : 
 and that it had sung intermediately at Christ's 
 church, and was also to perform there in the even- 
 ing. This is its stated Sabbath duty, and a pretty 
 laborious one, too. It is suflicient however to say 
 in commendation of this pcripatetick band, that it has 
 had the honour of being led hy sir John Stevenson. 
 St. Patrick's is nowise remarkable as a cathedral. 
 It is a huge, cumbrous pile of building, erected in 
 the old part of the city, and in one of the worst pos- 
 sible situations. The name of Swift, it is true, gives 
 it interest. His ashes are interred beneath the pave- 
 ment ; and also those of Mrs. Hester Johnson, the 
 ' Stella' of that whimsical poet. 'J here is an appro- 
 priate inscription to the memory of the latter; in 
 English, as it should be. That of Swift is in Latin 
 and was written by himself The concluding words 
 impress a good moral : 
 
 " Abi, viator, et imitaxe si potcris, 
 
 " Strenuuin pro viiili libertaiis Viudicatorem :" 
 
 which may be literally rendered ; — 
 
m EXCURSION FROM 
 
 Go passenger, and copy if you can, 
 
 Th' intrepid champion of the rights of man. 
 
 In a corner of the cathedral there is another monu- 
 ment which Swift erected, as an inscription declares, 
 in acknowledgment of the meritorious and faithful 
 deeds of a valued servant. 
 
 If our surprise, yesterday, on entering the city was 
 great, to notice week-day occupations on a Sabbath, it 
 was increased, as might be supposed, by what we be- 
 held afterwards in our walks. Almost every pastry 
 cook's room, eating houses of various descriptions, 
 druggists' shops, and many of other kinds, were open, 
 and people were purchasing in them as freely as up- 
 on other days. Companies of boys were also seen 
 in the streets, playing marbles and handball. 
 
 Passing along the college green early this morn- 
 ing, 1 had scarcely proceeded forty yards from my 
 lodgings, when I was saluted by the cry of the ' Ame- 
 rican President's speech.' The hawker on proclaim- 
 ing the notice, held out a newspaper which contain- 
 ed it, directly before me. I was amused with the 
 coincidence ; that in a city which is, or seems to be, 
 much more detached from America than either Lon- 
 don or Edinburgh, the very Jirst cry which I heard 
 should announce the inaugural speech of my sove- 
 reign ; for sovereign in fact he may be called, not- 
 withstanding the mildness of our revered constitu- 
 tion. 
 
 The greater part of this day has been engrossed 
 by the labour of presenting letters recommendatory. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 63 
 
 The result will hereafter appear. As the families 
 to whom we were addressed live in different parts 
 of the city, and some almost out of it, the employ- 
 ment has been productive of the additional advan- 
 tage of giving us a bird's eye view of this metropo- 
 hs. 
 
 A second look at Rutland Square confirmed the 
 opinion we had formed of its beauty on our entrSe 
 into the city. Stephen's green disappointed expec- 
 tation. It can boast of little else than its size ; be- 
 ing a mile round, and probably therefore the largest 
 square in Europe. The houses exhibit almost all 
 the common, and some very uncommon shapes. 
 They are ranged too with little attention to unifor- 
 mity or elegance. Mount-Joy and Merion squares 
 are each fine ; though the latter is the better. The 
 Liffey which flows through Dublin is a paltry stream, 
 not one whit better in appearance than the river 
 Passaick, just above the falls in New Jersey. It 
 rises on the borders of Kildare, only a few miles dis- 
 tant, and, after pursuing a very meandering course, 
 enters the city which it intersects in almost equal 
 parts. The labour and enterprise of the people 
 here have succeeded happily in both widening and 
 deepening its channel; and in constructing, too, 
 some noble quays along its magin. Still howevev 
 when the tide is out, its bed resembles more the 
 artificial hollow of a moat, than the channel of a 
 respectable stream. 
 
64 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 And here it may not be amiss to interpose a ca- 
 veat in regard to the familiar use, in these Islands, 
 of this term '• River.' It generally has a great 
 looseness of acceptance, and is sometimes applied 
 with a latitude truly laughable. In the vocabulary 
 of the American, the name imports dignity, and is 
 given, par eminence^ to the larger and more majestic 
 streams of his native land ; in the same way that the 
 term Lake, which here is arrogated by every pool, 
 is there yielded as a tribute to those mighty expan- 
 sions of water, the Caspians of the New World. Nor 
 do I mean by this to disparage the rivers of Great 
 Britain, hy comparing them with the greater North 
 American streams ; the Mississippi and the Missouri. 
 An inhabitant of the Atlantic states, though conscious 
 that they are bis property, has in fact as little con- 
 cern with those kingly floods, as an Englishman 
 with the Danube or the Rhone. And yet should he 
 come here impressed simply with the recollection 
 of what he has seen and known of his eastern, 
 thoiigb second rate streams, he will require no little 
 discipline to accede to the popular language which 
 magnifies every brook into a river, and every river 
 into a majestic current. Should he see the Granta, 
 or Cam, at Cambridge, or the Isis at Oxford, he 
 would readily pronounce them romantic and pretty 
 streamlets, but no more like to rivers than he to 
 Hercules. I remembered one morning at Chelten- 
 ham last autumn, returning with a companion from 
 a walk to the Spas, and crossing hy a fairy little 
 
 Jl 
 
EDir^BURGH TO DUBLIN. €5 
 
 bridge, a gurgling, sporting rivulet scarcely two 
 yards over, the beauty of which i had several times 
 previously remarked, 1 mquired in a tone of unaf- 
 fected doubt, if there were any name to that pretty 
 brook ? ' Brook P replied the other, with a counte- 
 nance of mingled surprise and concern, ' it is the 
 river Chelt /' I looked hastily again, and almost ex- 
 pected to see the indignant spirit of the stream, 
 bending in misty semblance on the view, prepared 
 to assert its honour, and avenge the affront.* 
 
 But to return from this digression to the Liffey ; 
 what this stream has wanted in natural advantages, 
 has been supplied, as far as might be, by the hand 
 
 * In the state of New Hampshire, there is a fine sheet 
 of water, equal in size and little inferiour native beauty, 
 to Loch Lomond, the queen of the Scottish lakes, which 
 the honest residents around its borders have never thought 
 of dignifying by any higher name than that of pond. It 
 might be wished however that its distinguishing epithet, 
 (Winipiseogee,) was a little softened and reduced, as well 
 for the convenience of daily use, as the euphouy of lan- 
 guage. 
 
 In the same state also, there is a towering ridge of moun- 
 tains, modestly termed the JVIiite-Hills ; each of whose peaks is 
 double the height of either Ben Lomond or Helvellyn. There is 
 still another mountain called by the Indians Moselote, which 
 since the settlement of the whites has undergone a whimsical 
 transformation into Moose-Hillock. Its altitude exceeds 5000 
 feet; in other words, it is nearly 1000 feet higher than Ben 
 Nevis, the tallest of the British mountains. This fact, stated 
 without comment, is enough to induce a foreigner to conclude., 
 that in America, in computing the magnitude of natural ob- 
 jects, the people employ a Brobdignag mensuration, indeed. 
 
 6*' 
 
66 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 of man. Not only has great labour been expend- 
 ed in improving its channel, and thereby facilitat- 
 ing navigation, and not only has great taste been 
 displayed in the quays along its sides, — there have 
 also some noble bridges been erected over it, two 
 or three of which are of elegant workmanship. 
 One which is a single arch, is of cast iron. But 
 the greatest work which we have yet seen here, 
 and the most stupendous of its kind perhaps in the 
 world, is the mole. The harbour of Dublin was 
 formerly very much exposed to the south-easterly 
 winds : and to remedy this, an immense wall, com- 
 posed of huge masses of stone strongly rivetted and 
 cemented, has been built into the open bay or sea, 
 with incredible labour. This mole is nearly three 
 miles in length, and is raised from four to six feet 
 above high water. Its average breadth at the sur- 
 face is thirty-five feet ; though it is somewhat less 
 than this at the lower extremity, being there, if I 
 mistake not, twenty-eight. A work of this kind is 
 sufficient to illustrate the public spirit and perse- 
 vering enterprize of the citizens of this great me- 
 tropolis. The shipping at the mouth of the river 
 makes a fine display : literally presenting a forest 
 of masts. 
 
 April 22d. — The difference between Irish and 
 British coin, and the nominal value of the currency 
 in the two countries gave me at first some embar* 
 rassment. Thirteen pence Irish are equal to one 
 shilling English, or twelve pence sterling. A pound 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 67 
 
 sterling, (or twenty shillings) is of course equal to 
 twenty-one shillings Irish. English shilhngs, six- 
 pences and half crowns, with bank of England 
 notes, rarely circulate in this country. The most 
 common coins are bank of Ireland tokens of tive- 
 penny, ten-penny and half-crown pieces. At Belfast 
 where I had to take the change of a pretty large 
 bank of England note, a handful of silver pieces 
 was returned, not one of which I had before seen, 
 except in museums, or the cabinets of the curious. 
 
 The Irish women, at least those in Dublin, so far 
 as I have had an opportunity of seeing, are far mfe- 
 riour in beauty, particularly in freshness and ruddi- 
 ness of complexion, to either the English or Scotch. 
 Their figures are seldom good; and there is a disa- 
 greeable coarseness in their features. Since landing 
 at Donaghadee, I have hardly seen a pretty woman. 
 
 Dublin exhibits a deplorable spectacle at night 
 in the numbers of females abroad, who are aban- 
 doned to infamy. They may seem more numerous 
 to one who has just come from Scotland, and who 
 has been accustomed to the orderly appearance at 
 evening of the streets of the cities in that country. 
 These women of the town commence their walks 
 immediately after night-fall, and exhibit a most ob- 
 trusive and unbl using effronterj^ 
 
 Early this morning Sir Richard Musgrave called. 
 He was out when I left a letter yesterday, but 
 returned the call in the course of the day, and 
 communicated also by note. At the present ia- 
 
m EXCURSION FROM 
 
 terview, bis conversation was copious and entertain- 
 ing. He descanted largely upon tlie growing power 
 and wealth of my country, and spoke of its character 
 in a strain of higher eulogium than I expected from 
 one of the baronet's avowed political bias. Sir Rich- 
 ard is a zealous loyalist ; and has uniformly and 
 powerfully cooperated with ministers in repressing 
 the spirit of disaffection in Ireland. During an 
 eventful portion of that period of turbulence and 
 terror which prevailed anterior to the union, he was 
 a member of the Irish Parliament, and held also the 
 office of high sheriff for the county of Waterford, in 
 each of which situations he lent all his influence in 
 strengthening the general government, in its endeav- 
 ours to avert the evils which menaced the country. 
 His ' memoirs of the rebellion of 1798' evince his 
 own view of the causes and policy which preceded 
 that terrible crisis, and the active interest which he 
 took in the events which ensued. 
 
 In the course of conversation this morning. Sir 
 Richard early entered upon a favourite subject, the 
 discussion of the Roman Catholic question, which 
 still greatly agitates the kingdom. He shewed me 
 the autograph of a written oath which he procured 
 a day or two ago, taken by some catholics of the 
 lower orders, binding them to use all means in their 
 power to put down every thing like heresy, by 
 which is meant a difference in profession and senti- 
 ment from the Church of Rome. The tenour of the 
 paper implied a readiness to resort to the sword or 
 
EDINBDRGH TO DUBLIN. 6S 
 
 laggot for effecting their object so far as these san- 
 guinary remedies should be found compatible with 
 the safety of the individual who might employ them. 
 The baronet adverted to an essay on the Roman 
 catholic question, detailing some curious facts, which 
 he recently published in the ' Hibernian Journal,' 
 (with which paper he has long plied an active com- 
 merce,) and in a walk which I afterwards took with 
 him, he procured for me a copy of it at the printing 
 office. Glancing my eye over it this evening 1 find 
 ample evidence that the mitred representatives of 
 the papal power in Ireland have thought themselves 
 the mmisters of a church militant indeed. Not a few 
 have fanned the flames of rebellion; and among 
 them, no less than three actual or titular primates, 
 seven bishops, and two vicars apostolic have, since 
 the reign of Ehzabeth, either fallen in open arms, 
 or been executed for treason. 
 
 To day, among other objects, we have visited the 
 Parliament house, a magnificent building of great 
 size, now converted into the bank, and a number of 
 public offices ; — the Custom house, which is no ways 
 inferiour in size and splendour, and the finest which 
 I have seen in any part of the empire : — and the 
 Lying-in hospital where poor women are attended 
 in child birth, and have every relief which their 
 situation may require, or which can be afforded. 
 This last is a most charitable institution, and reflects 
 the highest credit upon the good feelings of the 
 people in Dublin. We visited most of the wards, 
 
no EXCURSION FROM 
 
 and were struck with the number of comforts pro- 
 vided for the poor females who were fortunate 
 enough to be made inmates of the institution. The 
 building itself is rather a palace than a hospital, and 
 opens behind into the beautiful walks and shrub- 
 beries of Rutland square. The chapel is highly 
 finished ; too much so indeed. Ornaments are pro- 
 fusely lavished upon it, and do not comport with that 
 grave and solemn character which we desire to at- 
 tach to a place of religious worship. 
 
 It is impossible to walk the streets of this city 
 and repress a feeling of admiration on beholding the 
 numerous costly structures which meet {he eye in 
 every direction. In the expense and elegance of its 
 public works, Dublin excels, I should think, every 
 city of equal size in Europe. Some of these are 
 too fine, I mfean, for Ireland. This is forcibly brought 
 home by the many objects of a widely different des- 
 cription which are continually presented to view : 
 objects which painfully attest the unnatural condi- 
 tion of things not simply in Dublin, but in the coun- 
 try of which it is the capital,* Nor is the impres- 
 
 * The author of these sketches has since visited some of the 
 best cities of the continent ; no one of which, in his opinion, may 
 disdain acompaiison with Dublin. Making a proper allowance 
 for the disparity of numbeis and wealth, it yields not, he thinks, 
 to the French metropolis. Similar objects, also to those which 
 serve as foils to the better structures of Dublin, are every where 
 seen in Paris. The dwellings of the poorer classes in the latter 
 city exhibit little enough of the appearance of comfort. Of its 
 streets too, excepting the Boulevards, there is not one whicjli cac 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 71 
 
 3ion diminished by the location of these different 
 buildingfs. The finest edifices of which DubHn 
 boasts, are scattered over the city with Httle seem- 
 ing attention to regularity or fitness of place. The 
 contrast produced is often very disagreeable. It is 
 not uncommon to see a small comfortless hovel 
 adjoining some large and stately pile, and acting as a 
 silent commentary upon that mixture of opulence 
 and want, of splendour and meanness, of parade and 
 wretchedness, which is too conspicuous in various 
 other objects of daily observation. 
 
 We dined to day with Mr. D******, the gentleman 
 whom 1 have mentioned as having accompanied us 
 from Dundalk to Dublin. The attentions of this 
 
 compare with Dame, Westmoreland or Sackville streets, not to 
 mention several others little inferior. Two of the best in Paris 
 are the Rue du Richelieu, and the Rue St. Honore, and a visitor 
 might be safely challenged to find in all Dublin one which offers 
 the foot passenger such miserable accommodations as either of 
 these. In the opinion also of the writer that native politeness 
 which has been said to distinguish the lowest of the Parisian po- 
 pulace has either been greatly exaggerated or was nearly ex- 
 punged during the tragic scenes of the Revolution. If what 
 the panegyrists of France asserted upon this point during the 
 past century, and what lady Morgan has recently repeated, be 
 true, the citizens of its boasted metropolis have at least evinc- 
 ed how soon they could forget the rules of a petit maitre politesse, 
 and be schooled in the syntax of a barbarous and blood-thirsty 
 philosophy. From what actually fell under the author's observa- 
 tion, he is pursuaded that the canaille of Paris have now the 
 properties, as they have uniformly had the elements, of a char- 
 acter more foul and savage than ever disgraced the mobs of Lon- 
 don or of Dublin. 
 
n EXCURSION FROM 
 
 gentleman to us, considering the circumstances under 
 which our acquaintance was formed are characteristic 
 of the frank and confiding hcspitahty peculiar to the 
 Irish. It struck me as a goodrule when [ commenc- 
 ed my travels, not to mention, unless some desirable 
 opportunity should present, the country from which 
 I came, especially in any of the pubhc vehicles. 
 A foreigner is saved thereby no little extortion at the 
 inns where he chances to stop, (a matter of some 
 moment in such a country as this :) and he has an 
 opportunity of gaining more satisfactory information 
 in regard to the opinions entertained of his own na- 
 tion than he could by openly declaring the land of 
 his origin. Such information is seldom expected or 
 desired. An American is not catechised concerning 
 the place of his birth, nor need he fear that it will 
 be detected, unless he so wishes. He will pass with- 
 out question as an Englishman, or perhaps more 
 properly as a Briton ; and should he mention his 
 country, the first impression produced will be that 
 of surprise. The principle adverted to, is to be un- 
 derstood, however, as applicable merely to the tra- 
 veller ; that is, to one actually moving from place 
 to place, at which time too, he is supposed to be 
 daily and even hourly changing his associates, pro- 
 vided that he adopts the stage coach conveyance 
 which on the greater routes, is always most eligible. 
 In the instance of first meeting with the gentle- 
 man at whose house we this day dined, this practice 
 unexpectedly led to a slight embarrassment. Learn- 
 
ANTIQUITY OF THE UJSITED STATES. 7S 
 
 and which have puzzled naturahsts so much, may be 
 the remains of this class of men. The supposition 
 at least is worthy of some investigation. The fol- 
 lowing verses contain a brief account of the whole 
 genealogy. 
 
 But Guyon all this while his book did read, 
 
 Ne yet has ended ; for it was a great 
 
 And ample volume, that doth far exceed 
 
 My leisure so long leaves here to repeats 
 
 It told how first Prometheus did create 
 
 A man of many parts from beasts deryv'd, 
 
 And then stole fire from heven to animate 
 
 His worke, for which he was by Jove depryv'd 
 
 Of life himselfe, and heartstrings of an eagle ryv'cl. 
 
 That man so made he called Elfe, to weet 
 
 Quick, the first author of all Elfin kynd ; 
 
 Who, wandering through the world witii wearie feet. 
 
 Did in the gardens of Adonis fjnid 
 
 A goodly creature, whom he deem'd in mind 
 
 To be no earthly wight, but either spright 
 
 Or angell, th' author of all woman kynd ; 
 
 Therefore a Fay he her according hight, 
 
 Of whom all Faeries spring, and fetch their lineage right. 
 
 Of these a mighty people shortly grew, 
 And puissant kinges which all the world warrayd 
 And to themselves all nations did subdew. 
 The first and eldest, which that sceptre sway'd, 
 Was Elfin ; him all India obay'd, 
 And all that now America men call : 
 Next him was noble Elfinan, who laid 
 Cleopolis foundation first of all, 
 But Elfiline enclosM it with a golden wall. 
 7 
 
74 MEMOIR ON THE 
 
 His Sonne was Elfinell, who overcame 
 
 The wicked Gobbelines ia bloody field ; 
 
 But Elfant was of most renowned fame, 
 
 Who all of christall did Panthea build : 
 
 Then Elfar, who two brethren gyauntes kild, 
 
 The one of which had two heades, th' other three ; 
 
 Then Elfinor who was in magic skill'd ; 
 
 He built by a.rt upon the glassy see 
 
 A bridge of bras, whose sound heven's thunder seem'd to be. 
 
 He left three sonnes, the which in order rayn'd, 
 And all their offspring in their dew descents : 
 Even seven hundred princes, which maintaynd 
 With mighty deedes their sondry governments, 
 That were too long their infinite contents 
 Here to record, ne much materiall ; 
 Yet should they be most famous moniraents. 
 And brave ensample, both of martiall 
 And civil rule to kings and states imperiall. 
 
 After all these Elfideos did rayne. 
 The wise Elfideos ! in great majestie 
 Who mightily that sceptre did sustayne. 
 And with rich spoyles and famous victorie 
 Did high advaunce the crown of Faery. 
 He left two sonnes of which fayre Elferon, 
 The eldest brother, did untimely dye. 
 Whose empty place the mighty Oberon 
 Doubly supplide in spousall and dominion. 
 
 Great was his power and glory over all. 
 
 Which him before that sacred scale did fill. 
 
 That yet remaines his wide memoriall. 
 
 He dying, left the fairest Tanaquill 
 
 Him to succeed therein by his last will ; 
 
 Fairer and nobler liveth none this howre, 
 
 Ne like in grace, ne like in learned skill ; 
 
 Therefore they Glorian call that Glorious flowre ; 
 
 Long mayst thou, Glorian I live, in glory and great powre. 
 
ANTIQUITY OF THE UNITED STATES. 75 
 
 Beguyl'd thus with delight of novelties, 
 
 And natuiall desire of countryes state. 
 
 So long they redd in those antiquities, - 
 
 That how the time was fled they quite forgate ; 
 
 Till gentle Alma seeing it so late, 
 
 Perforce their studies broke, and them besought 
 
 To thinke how supper did them long awaite ; 
 
 So half unwilling from their bookes them brought 
 
 And fayrely feasted, as so noble knightes she ought. 
 
 ■ A writer in the Port Folio, for the month of March 
 1815, seems to have had a ghmpse of this fine system 
 and to have lost it untimely. A perusal of Plato 
 had brought him on the true scent, but having unfor- 
 tunately started a particular word, he has hunted it 
 through all its doublings and windings, till he has lost 
 the fine idea which was in full view. The Hebrew 
 word Peleg caught his attention, and like a German 
 University he has devoted his whole time to the in- 
 vestigation of a single word, and is of course nearly 
 as bare of ideas, as some thousand of folios produc- 
 ed by German commentators. The following para- 
 graph will shew how near he was to a brilliant dis- 
 covery. " We think there is sufficient reason to be- 
 lieve, that land once connected America to the old 
 world, in place of which now roll the Atlantic and 
 Pacific Oceans. Over this continuous land men and 
 animals passed. This land, which, it is probable, 
 was of very considerable extent, was all submerged, 
 except in those parts of it which now appear as isl- 
 ands in those seas." More regret will be felt that 
 this deserving author should have been thus led 
 Away, since ho discovers so much of that genuine 
 
76 MEMOIR ON THE 
 
 modesty which accompanies real merit. There is 
 something almost affecting in the timid manner with 
 which he suggests, that the land which occupied the 
 place of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans was, " it is 
 probable of very considerable extent ^ 
 
 One more authority only will be adduced for this 
 branch of the subject, but that one will be conclusive. 
 The learned Dr. Mitchill, {Centumvir olim) of New- 
 York, who in seconding the opinion of Mr. Jeffer- 
 son, Lafon and others, throws so much light on the 
 subject as to place it beyond dispute. An abstract 
 of his opinions, will be sufficient to carry conviction 
 to every candid mind. 
 
 " I avoided the opportunity which this grand con- 
 clusion afforded me, of stating that America was the 
 cradle of the human race ,• of tracing its colonies 
 westward over the Pacific Ocean, and beyond the 
 sea of Kamschatcka, to new settlements ; of follow- 
 ing emigrants by land and by water, until they 
 leached Europe and Africa ; and lastly, of following- 
 adventurers from the former of these sections of the 
 ^lobe, to the plantations and abodes w^hich they found 
 and occupied in America. I had no inclination to 
 oppose the current opinions, relative to man's crea- 
 tion and dispersion. I thought it was scarcely worth 
 the while to inform an European, that on coming to 
 America, he had left the neTsj word behind him, for 
 the purpose of visiting the old. It ought neverthe- 
 less to be remarked, that there are many important 
 advantages derived to our reasoning from this pres- 
 ent manner of considering the sxibject. The princi- 
 ples being now established, they will be supported 
 
ANTIQUITY OF THfi UNITED STATES. 71 
 
 hy a further induction of facts and occurrences, to 
 an extent and amount that it is impossible, at this 
 moment fairly to estimate. And the conclusions of 
 Jefferson, Lafon, and others, favourable to the great- 
 er antiquity of American population, will be duly re- 
 inforced and confirmed."* 
 
 That America was the oldest continent, and its in- 
 habitants the most ancient people on the globe, is 
 now fairly proved ; and if this supposition did not 
 accord with reason at first sight, the weight of so 
 many great names, as have been cited, will certainly 
 be sufficient to induce every lover of truth to give 
 the matter that careful investigation, which will be 
 inevitably rewarded with conviction. This being es- 
 tablished, the second point to be considered, is the 
 antiquity of the United States ; and the extreme re- 
 moteness of this could not be placed beyond a doubt, 
 unless the ancient existence of the continent had been 
 first demonstrated. 
 
 Although this part of the subject is more obvious, 
 it is not unaccompanied with difficulties to minds 
 which reflect deeply. To those indeed, whose fri- 
 volity and credulity make them receive implicitl3% 
 the common cant of this being, " an infant nation, a 
 youthful nation,-' &c. and who rely upon the most 
 fallible and confused of all sciences, chronology, for 
 their belief, it will be in vain to display a philosophi- 
 cal argument ; but to more sound and robust intel- 
 lects, the conclusions will appear inevitable. The 
 
 * Dr. Mitchill's ?yllabus of a course of lectures in Natiirnl 
 History, 
 
 7 * • 
 
78 MEMOIR ON THE' 
 
 most embarrassing difficulty is, that there are some 
 reasons for carrying back this antiquity to a period 
 60 remote, as to involve a considerable degree of 
 contradiction with other known data. One only of 
 these will be particularlj^ alluded to, and that is, the 
 practice of chewing the narcotick plant, nicotiana, 
 or tobacco. The learned Caledonian patrician, lord 
 Monboddo, first shewed satisfactorily, that the human 
 race is derived from a particular species of monkey, 
 which once inhabited the shores of the Mediterrane- 
 an ; and who having b}^ chance acquired the use of 
 the muscle which moves the thumb, the paw of the 
 animal was at once converted into the human hand ; 
 and the prodigious advantages arising from this source, 
 enabled them gradually to improve their moral and 
 physical faculties, obliterate their tailsf, and become 
 men. It is certain, that in the course of this trans- 
 formation, they passed through the state of ruminat- 
 ing animals ; but it is almost impossible, that this 
 should not have taken place previous to acquiring 
 the use of speech. Now our ruminating animals 
 have the flicuUy of speech, and yet it seems cruel, 
 and discordant, when the general benevolence of 
 nature is considered, that possessing the highest fa- 
 culties of men, they should still be subjected to this, 
 in them, hideous, filthy, disgusting process of chew- 
 ing the cud. This point may perhaps be elucidated 
 hereafter by further researches. 
 
 The mostinfxllible method of deciding on the real 
 standing of a nation, is not the examination of a few 
 meagre dates, but a comparison of its institutions, 
 its monuments, its manners, with those of others. 
 
ANTIQUITY OF THE UNITED STATES. 79 
 
 How many leading circumstances are there, thaf: 
 place us on the exact parallel with the most ancient 
 relations, and ev en conjectures of the primitive state 
 of society. Philosophers have said, that before the 
 formation of society, men roamed at large, indepen- 
 dent of each other, that they gradually sacrificed 
 a portion of their rights to obtain the security of go- 
 vernment. Are we not at the first stages in this re- 
 spect, and agreeing perfectly with the state of things 
 in the earliest antiquit}^? the first beginnings of the 
 arts were rude and imperfect, architecture, the most 
 ancient of them all, was slow in its progress towards 
 perfection. Are we not coeval with its first advan- 
 ces ? do not our buildings plainly manifest, that they 
 were erected when the principles of the art were 
 yet unsettled ? do we not behold Dorick columns with 
 Corinthian proportions, and all the incongruities that 
 accompany the origin of an art ? The knowledge of 
 figures was much posterior to that of letters, and 
 though the use of the latter is generally known, the 
 former is still in its infancy : men in a savage, prime- 
 val state can make long speeches, and yet are not 
 able to count ; for have we not lately seen a Conven- 
 tion,* the majority of which was so deplorably igno- 
 rant, that they could not tell what constituted five- 
 ninths of a given number ! It would be tiresome to 
 exhibit all the illustrations that present themselves. 
 There is one monument among perhaps a thou- 
 sand, that may be particularized. In the city of Lon- 
 don, there is a stone placed against a wall, which is 
 called London stone. It is supposed on solid 
 
 * Brunswick Convention. 
 
80 MEMOIR ON THE 
 
 grounds to be an ancient milliarium of the Ro- 
 mans, and it is presumed that it was previously 
 a sacred stone of the Druids ; there is therefore 
 .a tolerably clear history of this monument. Now 
 there is in Boston, a quadrangular stone, called 
 the Boston stone, of which nothing is known, its 
 origin is lost in the night of time. It is of the 
 granitick class, which are admitted by geologists to 
 be the most ancient, if this stone then, primitive in 
 every sense, is so ancient that its history is lost, and 
 the London stone, is traced for two or three thou- 
 sand years, is it not probable that this is vastl}^ older, 
 since nothing is known respecting it ? Would it not 
 be harder than its own substance to deny this con- 
 clusion ? The rock itself is primitive, every vestige 
 of its origin is forgotten, it has therefore existed 
 from the creation of the world. The clearness of 
 ihis reasoning can only be equalled by the following 
 passage from the celebrated archbishop Bradwar- 
 dine* in Jhis admirable treatise in folio, de natura 
 causarum, (page 863.) " Quis enim negaverit necesse 
 esse hac necessitate sequente, deum facere quicquid im- 
 mediate Jit ah ipso, sicut et hac necessitate omne quod 
 est, quando est necesse est esse, et quod jit el factum est, 
 fieri et factum esse, et deum velle sic esse.''"' 
 
 * I have heard with great satisfaction from a friend who as- 
 certained the fact, that the London folio edition of 1G16, of this 
 too much neglected author's valuable writings, de causa Dei con- 
 tra Pelagium et de natura causarum^ is in the Boston Athenceum. 
 The young men who frequent that excellent institution will do 
 well to stud)'- this volume, and they will regret that there is but 
 one. 
 
ANTIQUITY OF THE UNITED STATES. 81 
 
 If it were possible, that a doubt could remain on 
 this subject, do not the existence of our learned soci- 
 eties prove its absurdity. The Historical Society of 
 Massachusetts has been formed more than twenty 
 years, and has devoted itself constantly to collecting 
 and investigating the antiquities of the country, 
 on which it has published many volumes. Next 
 came the Historical Society of jYew-York, which 
 has been engaged for some years in the same pur- 
 suits. Still the field was too vast for the labour- 
 ers ; the American Antiquarian Society was estab- 
 lished two years ago, and its location fixed at 
 Worcester, because the road to New-York pas- 
 ses through that town. Now may it not be asked 
 with confidence,^ — if the profound archaiologists 
 who compose that society, would have formed 
 their association after so many similar ones already 
 existed, if the objects of its research were not in- 
 exhaustible, and this country the most ancient in the 
 world ? 
 
MISERIES OF HUMAN LIFE. 
 
 From the North American Review, Januar)^, 1817. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 There are few books that have been more popu- 
 lar than the celebrated " Miseries of Human Life," 
 by Mr. Beresford, because it gave an opportunity to 
 the wretched, to see the calamities they endured, 
 minutely described ; a task which had never before 
 been attempted, and which afforded them much 
 solace. The efforts of succeeding philanthropists 
 can only add to the catalogue, without ever making 
 it complete. I enclose a slight tribute in this way, 
 which will place two more on the list. 
 
 A misery in winter. — Being present at a great ball 
 — having no great passion for dancing — the lady you 
 would wish most to dance with, being away — after 
 careful reconnoitering, — making up your mind to wear 
 out the tediousness of the evening and to lead a 
 particular lady to supper, — anticipating from her 
 vivacity and brilliancy, one pleasant hour — in the 
 mean time, being requested to take a hand, in order 
 to complete a party at whist — having a partner 
 whose temper is not even proof against the vicissi- 
 
MISERIES OF HUMAN LIFE. C3 
 
 tudes of a game at cards — losing five points to a man 
 whose income every hour is more than yours for a 
 year — and who plays with such slow, hateful, inexo- 
 rable prudence, that when you hasten away to re- 
 trieve the fortune of the evening — you find the sup- 
 per has already commenced, the places all full — and 
 the lady you like most, fairly seated by the man you 
 like least, in the whole assembly ! ! 
 
 j3 misery in summer. — Making one of a party on the 
 water — the finest month in the year being selected 
 for the purpose — uncommon preparations having 
 been made, the excursion is a matter of notoriety 
 and almost of envy, among all your acquaintance — 
 on the appointed day you set off, with the weather 
 doubtful, and the doubt (not the weather) is cleared 
 away, by its proving to blovv the hardest gale of wind 
 and the coldest weather that had been experienced 
 within the memory of man, at that season — after 
 lying at anchor all day and catching only a few 
 
 sculpins, you esteem yourself very 
 
 fortunate, by the great exertions of an excellent 
 crew, to get under shelter of some island to pass the 
 night ; your male friends on shore, all laughing in 
 their sleeve, and your female, trembling in their's ; 
 being obliged to worry out the night on a chair 
 without sleeping, and without a book to read, while 
 a half dozen of your companions are snoring in the 
 small cabin around you in such tones, that they would 
 be sent to the rear of an army which was meditating 
 a surprize, if the enemy lay within three miles ; 
 next morning to be landed before sun-rise, cold, 
 
84 EPIGRAM. 
 
 cramped, sleepy, full of sea qualms, and when has- 
 tenkig home incog, at an hour when none but day- 
 labourers should be stirring, to meet a person, who, 
 from his weather-wise sagacity, had perfidiously pre- 
 tended some inevitable, sudden engagement the day 
 before, not to be of the party, out of whose-way you 
 meant to have kept for a week at least, and who 
 inquires with an insidious grin, " What kind of a 
 Time have you had ?" 
 
 EPIGRAM. 
 
 Lines addressed to — , Esq. Court- 
 Square, who complained of the disadvantage of weak 
 eyes in the profession of the law. 
 
 Weak eyes ?ae best, be ruled by me, 
 
 To view the joyous omen right. 
 Since able lawyers, all agree, 
 
 Must often have the fee-hlest sight. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. «5 
 
 i am fftf from objecting to theatric representations 
 in themselves. They are often harmless, and some- 
 times useful. The drama is confessedly an impor- 
 tant engine ; and though it has been frequently 
 prostituted to corrupt purposes, it has exerted, and 
 is capable still of exerting a powerful and happy 
 agency upon the character and manners of society ; 
 in influencing public sentiments, deepening the feel- 
 ing of patriotism, and even m enlivening the moral 
 sense, by embodying examples of history, and lash- 
 ing popular follies. This is not the place, however, 
 to discuss the merits or abuses of the stage, and I 
 perceive that I am proceeding too far. I will only 
 therefore add, that no one, I conceive, can witness 
 the performance of the better plays of the great 
 English dramatists, by the more distinguished actors 
 of the British stage, but with real benetit, as well as 
 heartfelt interest ; and for mj'self I am free to say, 
 that I have again and again beheld the various and 
 delicate, but impassioned personations of Miss O'Neil ; 
 have listened to the classic, digniiied, and lofty re- 
 hearsals of John Kemble, and have viewed the thril- 
 ling action, combined with the deep-toned pathos of 
 Kean, with a satisfaction as 1 conceived, both ration- 
 al and solid. 
 
 Last evening I went to the Theatre Royal in this 
 city ; expecting little, and was therefore not much 
 disappointed. Dublin is too near to London, the 
 vortex of superior talent, particularly in the scenick 
 line, to retain long any celebrated dramatic perform- 
 
86 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 er. The great play houses of Covent Garden and 
 Drury Lane, are marts where theatric genius is 
 in high demand ; and accordingly, Uke Aaron's rod, 
 they swallow up the supporters of each minor estab- 
 lishment, as soon as their pretensions and merits 
 have recommended them to popular acceptance. In 
 the metropolis of the empire, these buskin'd heroes 
 are rewarded with better rations as well as pay : and 
 while their vanity is also gratified by playing before 
 the crowded audiences of Westminster, they have 
 an opportunity, in the intervals of their campaigns, to 
 visit the provincial boards, among which are com- 
 prehended the theatres in the capitals of the two 
 sister kingdoms. 
 
 The citizens of Dublin complain, and with seem- 
 ing reason, that though their stage has produced not 
 a few great actors, they have uniformly witnessed 
 the speedy operation of the causes suggested ; and 
 instead of deriving any advantage from their fame, 
 have found that they have only been brought forward 
 to be speedily decoyed and impressed into the London 
 service. But this grievance, if it may be so termed, 
 acts with redoubled pressure upon the country estab- 
 lishments. At Belfast, the theatre was pointed out 
 to me where Miss O'Neil commenced her brilhant 
 career, and it was remarked, that whenever any new 
 performer of more than common talent appears there, 
 the individual is immediately bought up by the 
 managers of the Dublin boards. How much farther 
 these complaints might be found to extend, by those 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 87 
 
 who would search the records of still humbler estab- 
 lishments, it is difficult to say. Certain it is, on the 
 other hand, that madame Catalani, the heroine of the 
 British opera, has not been contented with the suc- 
 cess which she has acquired even in London ; but 
 has repaired to the cities of the continent, to display 
 her astonishing vocal powers, and gain fresh celebri- 
 ty, before the delighted auditories of Paris, Berlin, 
 and Vienna. 
 
 The theatre of Dublin is large, commodious and 
 elegant ; in each of these qualities greatly superior 
 to that in Edinboro'. The play was ' Wild Oats', 
 a comedy of little interest. Jones, of the Covent 
 Garden train, played Rover very well. Mrs. Hod- 
 son, in lady Mary Amaranth, performed tolerably ; 
 nothing better. The entertainment was Blue Beard ; 
 a clumsy, stupid pantomime. It brought to mind, 
 however, a humorous incident which is reported to 
 have occurred during the performance of this very 
 piece, at a time when the Pitt administration was 
 thought to be peculiarly unfriendly to the Irish. 
 One of the duets was singing which terminates with 
 the words, ' pit a pat.' When finished, some one 
 from the gallery briskly cried out, — ' arrah, there, 
 you're right, my honey : down with Pitt^ and up 
 with Pat.^ 
 
 Judging from what was witnessed last evening, 
 the theatre in Dublin is not well attended, or at least 
 at this season. The house was very thin ; and such 
 company as occupied seats in the boxes came in at a 
 
S8 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 late hour. A good band played in the orchestra. 
 The tunes of ' God save the king,' and ' St. Patrick's 
 day in the morning,' were introduced between the 
 play and afterpiece, during which every person in 
 the house stood, and the men remained uncovered. 
 They are played regularly each night, and always 
 form the interlude. In the theatres of England and 
 Scotland, ' God save the king,' commences the per- 
 formance. 
 
 One of our friends, a member of the Dublin So- 
 ciety of Arts, gave us, a day or two ago, tickets of 
 admission to the Botanic garden, which belongs to 
 that Institution, and this morning we availed our- 
 selves of them'to visit it. It is distant from the city 
 about two miles. On our walk there we crossed the 
 Royal canal, and stopped to examine the locks : the 
 construction of which is precisely similar to those in 
 the Middlesex canal in Massachusetts. A boat was 
 passing through them at the time. 
 
 The Botanic garden contains between sixteen and 
 seventeen Irish acres. It is laid out with care and 
 taste ; but the plants in the open air are not suf^ 
 ficiently old or large, to shade and diversify enough 
 its walks and enclosures. In the centre of the gar- 
 den there is a pond, and near it an artificial rocky 
 eminence. There are eight green houses, which are 
 spacious and convenient, and contain five thousand 
 plants. Among them is the largest Norfolk Island 
 pine in the United kingdom : a tree which is re- 
 markable for attaining the greatest size of any 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 89 
 
 known species. This, however, has not yet exceed- 
 ed twenty feet. The tree has been introduced into 
 Europe only within a few years. The varieties or 
 kinds of geraniums in these conservatories are about 
 sixty. The plants, I noticed, were not placed over 
 the flues, as they generally are in American green 
 houses, and as I have remarked in some of the Eng- 
 lish. The gardener who conducted us round, said 
 that he knew the latter method to be bad ; as it ex- 
 posed the roots of the plants to be scorched or dried: 
 and many, he added, were destroyed, through igno- 
 rance of the pernicious tendency of the custom. 
 
 There was some company in the garden during 
 our visit. On pleasant days, it is usual for many 
 friends of the proprietors to repair to it from the 
 city. Their names are all registered in an album* 
 
 Returning to town, we again called on Sir Charles 
 Gieseke, at the Dublin society house, and were 
 shown the Elgin marble casts. Three sets only 
 were permitted to be taken from these marbles ; 
 one of which the society purchased for £150 sterl- 
 ing. The casts. Sir Charles assured us, are wonder- 
 fully accurate, and they certainly have that appear- 
 ance. They prove nevertheless, that the originals 
 have been sadly injured and mutilated. The basso 
 relievos are best preserved. Besides the casts of 
 lord Elgin's marbles, we remarked two others, beau- 
 tifully executed, of the Apollo Belvidere : the pro- 
 portions and S3^mmetry of which, and the lightness 
 and gracefulness of the drapery, could not be suf 
 
90 EXCURSIOX FROM 
 
 ficiently admired. These copies prove to demoiir 
 stration, the intimate acquaintance which the ancients 
 had, with the anatomy of the human body. Sir 
 Charles was very courteous and communicative ; and 
 pointed our attention to those objects in the museum, 
 which had escaped observation yesterday. 
 
 We dined with a large and brilUant party at Sir 
 Richard Musgrave's. The baronet had requested 
 us to come to his house an hour earUer than that 
 appointed for dinner, in order to show us some se- 
 lect paintings, engravings, and maps which we had 
 not previously seen. We accordingly went. He 
 was expecting us, and immediately on our entering 
 the drawing-room, a table was spread with a choice 
 collection of these valuables. Among them was a 
 "ponderous double-folio volume, containing some 
 excellent engravings of Italian scenes, most of which 
 Sir Richard has personally visited, and accordingly 
 recognized the copies with peculiar interest. He 
 has a remarkably active and retentive memory ; and 
 related a variety of anecdotes illustrative of his 
 observations with great point and humour. 
 
 Among the guests at the table, were admiral sir 
 
 James F , and several other gallant naval and 
 
 military officers. Much was said in commendation 
 of the American prowess upon the ocean ; and the 
 remarks which were made concerning our triumphs, 
 evinced a liberality of feeling, and a candour of opi- 
 nion, combined with an accuracy of intelligence, 
 which I honestly confess I did not altogether expect 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 91 
 
 Captain H particularly, an officer of great 
 
 merit, and who has signahzed himself in more than 
 one naval conflict, though filled with a just pride for 
 the successes of the British fleets, did not hesitate 
 to ascribe to our inftint navy, a share of glory as high 
 at least as is ordinarily assigned it even in America. 
 He observed to me, that at the commencement of 
 the last war between Great Britain and the United 
 States, he believed most iirmly, that in every coming 
 action in which an English vessel should be engaged 
 with an American, unless the force should far pre- 
 ponderate in favour of the latter, the former would 
 prove victorious. His astonishment at the result of 
 the first few trials was great, he readily confessed. 
 Nor had he been able to divest himself of it ; for al- 
 though in point of physical force, and weight of me- 
 tal, the balance was in some instances decidedly on 
 the side of the United States' ships ; yet the English 
 w^ere supposed to have attained such skill and habi- 
 tude in their long and arduous struggle for the sove- 
 reignty of the seas, as seemingly to make sufficient 
 amends for any deficiency in the other respect. 
 Much credit was also given to our armies, particu- 
 larly for the successes which they gained in the last 
 campaign. It was observed, that the Enghsh had 
 uniformly found the Americans apt pupils, at least, in 
 the science of war ; and by far too much so, there 
 was reason to apprehend, for their future glory, and 
 the uninterrupted continuance of their prosperity. 
 A toast which Sir Richard proposed, and which was 
 
92' EXCURSION FROM 
 
 promptly drank by the company, g-ave me great 
 pleasure ; it was ' Perpetuity to the friendly relations 
 at present subsisting between Great Britain and the 
 United States.' 
 
 April 26. — The morning was occupied by a visit 
 to the Four Courts, a magnificent building so called, 
 situated on a broad quay to the south of the Liiiey. 
 It contains the halls of justice, and considering its 
 cost and stateliness, may be safely pronounced a struc- 
 ture well worthy of the genius to which it is dedicat- 
 ed. To detail its proportions, arrangements, and 
 ornaments, would be at best a useless employment. 
 Others bare attempted it already, and theirs be the 
 credit, so far as they have succeeded. A descrip- 
 tion of any large public building, is in most cases 
 very unsatisfactory. Even if the visitor is happy, 
 as he may think, in his attempted communication, it 
 is a probable chance that his reader may be utterly 
 unable to follow him ; and what may be perspicuity 
 and distinctness to him, may be a mass of confusion 
 to the other. The truth is, that the latter cannot 
 place himself in any of those points of view, which 
 the former is throughout supposing him to occupy. 
 There is nothing palpable or definite therefore on 
 which he may fix ; and a simple statement of the 
 cost of a building, and of its general efiect upon the 
 eye, is in most cases, it is conceived, much more 
 satisfactory, than an elaborate description of its re- 
 spective parts, although to each there should be an- 
 nexed anv one of that choice cluster of hi^h sound- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLm. S3 
 
 ing epithets — Fine, striking, stately, noble, grand, 
 elegant, splendid, magniticent or superb. I merely 
 therefore add, that this edifice of the Four Courts is 
 justly regarded a chef-d'oeuvre. It was erected 
 thirty years ago, at an expense of more than ninety 
 thousand pounds sterling ; and was viewed by us 
 this morning, as by multitudes before us, with min- 
 gled feelings of admiration and delight. 
 
 We looked into the courts of chancery, exche- 
 quer, and king's bench, and heard some speaking, 
 but none of it was remarkable. The Irish bar sus- 
 tains an high character for acuteness, talent and eru- 
 dition ; and they who judge of it from the gaudy 
 verbiage and sickening rhapsodies of Phillips, know 
 little of its dignity and excellence. Within the last 
 forty years, it has produced not a few profound ju- 
 rists ; and at present can point to several, who, for 
 depth of learning, and skill in argument, would chal- 
 lenge no second place in Westminster hall. The 
 name of Ponsonby is enough to prove what it has 
 been ; and that of Bushe, to attest what it is. 
 The former of these, after eminently distinguishing 
 himself as an advocate, and filling with great 
 eclat the office of lord chancellor of Ireland, has ac- 
 cepted a seat in the house of commons, and is among 
 the conspicuous leaders of parliamentary debate. 
 Though chief in the opposition, it is his singular for- 
 tune to enjoy the confidence of all parties ; and 
 there is no one whose opinions are uniformly listen- 
 
94 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 ed to by ministers themselves, with higher attention 
 and respect than are those ol Mr. Ponsonby.* 
 
 Mr. Bushe, who for a number of years has held 
 the office of Solicitor General for this kingdom, is 
 now considered at the head of the Irish bar. In the 
 solid qualifications of an advocate, indeed, Mr. Plun- 
 ket is thought by many to equal him ; but as a speak- 
 er, wants much of his eloquence. Mr. Bushe is re- 
 puted to be always happy in the statement of his 
 argument ; and to appeal with wonderful effect, as 
 well to the passions as to the reason of his hearers. 
 A speech which he made in chancery some weeks 
 ago, is one of many which we find still fresh in the 
 applauses of every one. What is worthy of remark, 
 though this gentleman has passed the meridian of 
 his days, he is regarded as still rising to the zenith 
 of his reputation, and as giving promise to continue 
 for a lengthened period, ' lord of the ascendant.' 
 
 * Three months after the date of the above, the writer was 
 ■present in the gallery of the British House of Commons, dur- 
 ing a debate in which Mr. Ponsonby took a very active part. 
 It was protracted till about 2 o'clock in the morning, and as 
 it did not possess much general interest, most of the members 
 had retired, not more than fifteen or twenty being left on 
 either side. Mr. P. had spoken several times ; but on rising 
 once more to address the house, he was seized with an apo- 
 , plexy and fell. He was removed into the lobby behind the 
 speaker's chair ; and after medical aid had been rendered, 
 and some signs of returning consciousness appeared, he was 
 with difi&culty conveyed hom.e. He survived but three or four 
 days, and died amidst the heartfelt regrets of the whole na- 
 tion. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 9$ 
 
 Among the younger barristers, North is very pro- 
 mising, and has already obtained an high character. 
 Curran retired some years since, and is now* at a 
 watering place in England. It is lamentable to hear 
 confirmed, what popular report has too strongly as- 
 serted to be discredited, that this man, whose talents 
 have certainly shed lustre upon the Irish Bar, is at 
 present abandoned to habits of gross dissipation. He 
 is described as a profligate in morals, and is contemn- 
 ed and shunned by his former reputable acquain- 
 tances, and indeed by all the better part of society. 
 
 Phillips, his humble admirer, holds quite a subor- 
 dinate rank as a lawyer, and has a limited practice. 
 It is common here to speak very lightly of him ; 
 although candid persons pronounce him clever and 
 capable, notwithstanding his affectation and rant. 
 
 Counsellor P is one of that class of lawyers, 
 
 found at the bar of every country, who gladly seize 
 upon popular causes, (such as all criminal trials,) for 
 the want of better employment, and the sake, it may 
 be, of making a display. His taste too, leads him 
 occasionally to declaim to the city or county popu- 
 lace ; and empty as are his harrangues, it is not sur- 
 prising that they should avail, with those who mis- 
 take noise for eloquence ; or that the mobs of Dub- 
 lin should be willing to be entertained with the same 
 cameleon food which has so often exhilarated the 
 ' cits of London, and the boors of Middlesex. They 
 who know not whither he would lead them, resolve 
 
 * 1317. 
 
96 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 to follow him ; and those who cannot find his mean- 
 ing, hope he means rebellion.' 
 
 While walking in the anti-room of the Four 
 Courts, a friend pointed out to us the person of this 
 
 singular man. F has a tall and light figure, thin 
 
 visage, dark complexion and hair, a sharp, black 
 eye ; and a supercilious air and manner. 
 
 As we were bearers of letters to the Solicitor- 
 general, it gave us much concern on our arrival 
 here, to learn that he was absent from home on a 
 circuit. He returned to town, however, a day or 
 two ago, and immediately called with a most oblig- 
 ing tender of his services, to conduct us in the in- 
 tervals of his official duties, to any objects of inter- 
 est in this city, which might hitherto have been 
 overlooked, independently of such as are more di- 
 rectly in the way of his profession. During a call 
 which he repeated to day, we were struck with the 
 variety and elegance of his conversation, and court- 
 liness of his address, united as they are, with a frank- 
 ness and suavity of manners, the most conciliatory 
 and engaging. The Solicitor-general was one of the 
 members of the Irish parliament ; and his cool, and 
 powerful oratory, eminently fitted him for that sea- 
 son of stormy discussion, during which his senatorial 
 talents were exercised. He has occasionally also 
 communicated with the public through the medium 
 of different journals, and his writings are ever mark- 
 ed with an easy elegance of stjie, and a vein of 
 chastened, but pungent humour. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 97 
 
 In the course of the dav, captains M , and 
 
 H of the Royal navy called, and proposed a 
 
 walk to the castle, to show us more particularly its 
 buildings, and especially the chapel, a beautiful 
 specimen of light Gothic, said to be the finest in 
 the country. Some carvings and gildings in the lat- 
 ter, are rich beyond expression, and the windov/s 
 over the altar piece are painted with great taste. 
 The throne of the lord lieutenant, which is on the 
 left of the pulpit, is sumptuously decorated. It is 
 erected in the gallery, and is elevated above the 
 other seats on the same side. A canopy of crimson 
 cloth, embroidered with gold, overhangs it. The 
 arms of various noble families, entirely, .' beheve, 
 of those who have enjoyed the vice-regal office, 
 with their names, are affixed to the front panels of 
 the gallery. The effect is better than might be 
 supposed. 
 
 Having last come from a country which has pro- 
 duced a number of highly ingenious female writers, 
 whose distinguished endowments of mind, and vari- 
 ous intellectual exertions, have produced the hap- 
 piest influence upon the manners of its celebrated 
 metropolis, it was natural to inquire how far the 
 spirit of emulation, combined with the examples of 
 Mrs. Sheridan, Mrs. Tighe, and Miss Edgeworth 
 might have introduced into this city a similar pas- 
 sion for letters, and by giving it currency, have 
 exalted, as well as refined the character of its so- 
 ciety. Ireland, within the last fifty years, has pro- 
 
 9 
 
98 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 duced her full proportion of literary women ; and 
 even the voluptuous Lady Morgan, notwithstanding 
 her extravagant fancy, licentious taste, and vitiated 
 sensibility, is an evidence of the genial virtue of a 
 clime, which could impart a mind of such glowing 
 ardours, and an imagination of such vigorous and 
 fertile invention. 
 
 It was our fortune to ceme addressed to a lady in 
 this city, distinguished for mental accomplishments, 
 and the refinements of lettered taste. Her house is 
 frequented by the learned and polite ; and there the 
 stranger may often meet with a coterie of literary 
 fashionables, assembled for the purpose of easy and 
 improving intercourse, enlivened by the elegancies 
 of a courteous hospitality. A select party of the 
 friends of this lady we had the pleasure of meeting 
 at her dining-table to day ; among whom, were 
 several other very pleasing ladies, and two or three 
 of the University Fellows. Conversation was as it 
 should be, discursive and unaffected, but polished 
 and instructive, ^i'he magic of its charms seemed 
 to accelerate the passing minutes ; and the evening, 
 in the drawing-room, was protracted to a late hour. 
 In the latter, I remarked what I have elsewhere 
 seen in this city, a table spread with the recent 
 publications ; several beautiful editions of standard 
 English works ; together with paintings, prints, and 
 maps, remarkable for correctness and finish. This 
 rational appendage of a drawing-room, is almost 
 universal in the better houses of Edinburgh, and so 
 
EDmBURGH TO DUBLm. 99 
 
 far as it is met with in Dublin, is a badge of hon- 
 ourable fraternity between the citizens of the two 
 capitals. The inference which it authorizes in re- 
 gard to the state of society here, is highly favoura- 
 ble. 
 
 From the hasty observations, however, which I 
 have yet been able to make of this city as compared 
 with Edinburgh, the opinion has been confirmed, 
 that the latter decidedly surpasses it in the business 
 and parade of letters. They are more a trade 
 there, and from the absence of extrinsic objects, 
 are rendered important articles of exchange and 
 traffic. In Dublin, on the other hand, owing to its 
 maritime situation, and other inducements to money- 
 ed gains, these commodities of mind are less sought 
 after and prized. The inhabitants are naturally 
 more employed in pursuits directly subservient to 
 the maintenance of life ; whilst those of the Scot- 
 tish capital, being in most cases possessed of an 
 easy mediocrity of fortune, and freed from that rest- 
 less desire to augment it inseparable from daily 
 witnessing the stir of mercantile engagement, are 
 more inclined to contemplative habits, and resort to 
 books, and occupations purely mental, both for the 
 pleasure and benefits of the exercise. Hence that 
 character for intellectual superiorit}^, which Edin- 
 burgh has obtained ; — a character which entitles it 
 to the appellation of the Stoa^ or Porch, not only of 
 Great Britain, but of Europe. A lady, there, feels 
 it to be no disparagement to be familiar with any 
 
wo EXCURSION FROM 
 
 liberal study. Philosophy is no sealed book to her, 
 and she may range through each department of ab- 
 struse and exact science, fearless of the charges of 
 affectation or pedantry. Such a result marks a ra- 
 dical and happy change in the condition of civil 
 society ; a change, too, which is beginning widely to 
 operate. The female character is obtaining a de- 
 gree of respect, which it has never before properly 
 enjoyed ; whatever may be thought of its ascenden- 
 cy in the dissolute courts of Charles II, and Louis 
 XV. Happily, in the republic of letters, the ave- 
 nues of preferment are open to all. No salic law 
 there prevails ; and the fair candidate for literary 
 eminence, by a vigorous application of the energies 
 of an accomplished mind, may successfully challenge 
 the Drst honours in its gift. 
 
 Sunday April 27. — We called this morning by invi- 
 tation on major Sirr, and were gratified with viewing 
 his collection of paintings. This gentleman has about 
 an hundred in the whole ; the best of which, are 
 contamed in a single apartment of considerable size, 
 constructed for tlie purpose, and well lighted from 
 above. The paintings possess great merit ; much 
 more than we expected to find in any private collec- 
 tion in Dublin. They are the works of many emi- 
 nent artists, particularly of the Flemish and Italian 
 schools. Major Sirr is Chairman of the committee 
 of Fine Arts, to the Dublin society ; and at the same 
 time, holds an office which seems incompatible with 
 the pursuits of taste,— that of chief director of the 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. lOi 
 
 city police. It is owing to the indefatigable exer- 
 tions of this patriotic individual, that the turbulent 
 populace of Dublin are kept in a state of tranquilli- 
 ty, which would reflect credit upon the most peace- 
 able and well disposed people. 
 
 Major Sirr was actively and effectively engaged 
 in behalf of goverment, in the great rebellion of 
 1798 ; at the head of which, was lord Edward Fitz- 
 gerald, son of the duke of Leinster. This gentleman 
 gained intelligence of a daring conspiracy being in 
 agitation, just as it was on the point of exploding ; 
 and understanding one night that the insurgent 
 nobleman was to lodge in a certain house in the city, 
 he entered it with a small armed force, and suc- 
 ceeded, after a short struggle, in seizing him.* 
 This achievement contributed in no inconsiderable 
 degree, to an effectual and speedier termination of 
 the evils which were then impending over Ireland. 
 For on the seizure of their chief, and the disclosure 
 
 * It may be remembered, that towards the close of the ses- 
 sion of the British parliament, which ended in July 1819 a 
 motion was made and carried to reverse the bill of attainder 
 which had passed upon the famil}' of lord Ed. Fitzgerald, in 
 consequence of his treason. It was advocated both by minis- 
 ters and oppositionists; and evinced not only a conciliatory 
 spirit but a desire to expunge the recollection of the unhappy 
 events which introduc d and followed upon the rebellion. A 
 son of lord Fitzgesf.d was an officer in the army of tiio 
 duke of Wellington : and His Grace, when the motion was 
 under consideration by the lords, bore the most honourable 
 Testimony to his merits. 
 
 9 * 
 
i02 EXCURSION FROiM 
 
 of the treasonable plans on foot, the measures of the 
 insurgent part}'- were precipitated ; and contending 
 as they were obliged to do, without any leading or 
 decisive character for their head, they were reduc- 
 ed, after a short though sanguinary contest, to their 
 allegiance by the strong arm of government. This 
 rebelUon, it is computed, cost Ireland the lives of 
 100,000 of its subjects, of whom, 70,000 were Ro- 
 man CathoUcs. Addresses, and other flattering ac- 
 knowledgments of obligation w^ere presented to 
 major S. for his intrepid conduct in the affair refer- 
 red to, as also in others which occurred during the 
 rebellion. Several of these we saw, during a call 
 which we had previously made. 
 
 At the time of service we repaired to the castle 
 chapel. The house was full at an early hour. The 
 lord and lady lieutenant were present on the throne. 
 They descended without state to the chapel by a 
 private passage leading from that part of the castle 
 which is appropriated to the town residence of the 
 viceroy and family. The celebrated Dr. Magee 
 preached, a divine of great popularity ; who is 
 listened to with deep interest, whenever he visits 
 Dublin. Dr. Magee delivered one of the best prac- 
 tical discourses, which I remember ever to have 
 heard ; and I wished that it might be my happiness 
 to listen to him more than once. This gentleman, 
 formerly a professor in Trinity College, is now 
 settled on a distant deanery, (that of Cork, I believe.*) 
 
 * Dr. M. has since obt?iined a prelacy, and been transfersBd 
 to the episcopal halls of Raphoe. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 103 
 
 Ills work on the ' Atonement,' whatever may be 
 thought of its premises and tenets by dissentient 
 christians, is universally acknowledged to be a pro- 
 duction of great ability, and as marking a mind of 
 rare vigour and research.* The appearance of this 
 excellent divine, is prepossessing and venerable. 
 He seems turned of sixty-five ; is erect in his person, 
 though not above the middle size ; and has a hale 
 and rather florid complexion. His manner of 
 preaching is simple and unaffected, but energetic and 
 impressive. 
 
 The Rev. John Jebb, rector of Abingdon, in the 
 diocess of Cashel, is at present thought to be the 
 most popular clergyman in this part of Ireland. 
 Not long since, he published a volume of sermons 
 which gained him great celebrity here, although 
 they are hardly known on the other side of the 
 channel. They are characterized by that glowing 
 eloquence peculiar to the Irish, a too great fondness 
 for which, indeed, occasionally hurries him into a 
 vehemence of expression, bordering not a little upon 
 the declamatory. 
 
 Unitarianism, by which I mean anti-trinitarianism 
 in general, seems to be gaining a footing among the 
 
 *' The Hon. Mr. Bushe subsequently mentioned to the writer 
 of these notices, that in a conversation which he once had with 
 the present archbishop of Canterbury, that primate pronounced 
 Dr. Magee's work on the Atonement, to be the ablest which had 
 been added to the mass of English Theology, within the last half 
 century. 
 
104 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 clergy around the Carrickfergus. But in general, 
 it meets with very httle encouragement in Ireland. 
 In this city, there are two societies ; and they are 
 each respectable for numbers. I heir pastors are 
 of the Arian denomination, and are esteemed for 
 worth and piety. Jews are numerous every where 
 but in Ireland. They have no synagogue in Dublin, 
 nor in any other part of the country ; and possess 
 only a cemetery which is at Ballybough-bridge. 
 
 April 28. — The provost of the university, (Rev. 
 Dr. Elrington,) had politely made an appointment to 
 show us this morning, the interior of that noble 
 institution, and requested our company at a classic 
 breakfast. After an agreeable dejeune which proved 
 something more than a mere ' feast of reason,' the 
 gentleman and his son, Mr. E. a junior fellow in 
 Trinity college, drew on their academic robes, and 
 accompanied us to the university buildings. The 
 house of the provost is included within the college 
 precincts, and separated only by a court, from the 
 first quadrangle. It is a massive building, resembling 
 more a palace, than a private dwelling, constructed 
 of free-stone, and presenting in front, a range of doric 
 pilasters, supported by an under story of fretted, 
 rustic work. The interior is finely finished, and 
 corresponds to the dignity of its outward appearance. 
 
 The college buildings are about thirty-five in 
 number : forming two main quadrangles, besides a 
 smaller one. The front towards the College-green, 
 (a circular area so called, formed by the termination 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 105 
 
 ~of Dame, and other streets,) extends three hundred 
 feet, and is of the Corinthian order. In the theatre, 
 which is erected opposite to the chapel, and appro- 
 priated to lectures and exhibitions, we were shown 
 a piece of Irish statuary, which would have done 
 honour to the chisel of Praxiteles. It is a monument 
 commemorative of provost Baldwin, and representing 
 the figure of learning, bending in tears over his 
 recumbent body ; the whole sculptured from a single 
 block. The hall of exhibition, is 80 feet long, and 
 about 40 in breadth and height. It is ornamented 
 by some portraits of benefactors, and eminent alumni 
 of the college. The library is large, and the books 
 are arranged in the best manner for display. Their 
 number, including MSS. is between eighty and ninety 
 thousand. The library is rich in these last, the 
 MSS. of the great archbishop Usher forming a part. 
 Some of them are elegantly adorned with illuminatied 
 characters, and other quaint devices of monkish times. 
 I remarked in the collection, a copy in fine preser- 
 vation of the old Italic Bible, — the version which 
 preceded the vulgate of Jerome, — and also, the well- 
 known Codex Monfortianus. 
 
 But the provost directed our attention particularly 
 to one which is highly valuable, as well as curious, 
 and which came into the possession of the college, 
 by a singular fortune. An old manuscript, filled, 
 merely as it was thought, with some idle legends or 
 commentaries of a barbarous age, had long been in 
 the library, and had lain neglected amidst a heap of 
 
1«6 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 learned rubbish. By a strange accident, however, 
 there was discovered under this writing, another 
 work ; the letters of which traversed those of the 
 former, and though nearly obliterated, were, in most 
 places, faintly perceptible on a near view. It 
 proved to be a Greek MS. of the gospel of Matthew, 
 and is evidently of great antiquity. It is written 
 with uncial letters, without points of accent, and 
 other denoting marks of a modern age ; and the 
 characters are blended in lines without any distinc- 
 tion of words or sentences. The latter, precisely 
 resemble in form and size, those of the Codex 
 Bezae, which I saw at Cambridge in England, and 
 of the Alexandrine fac similes, which I have repeat- 
 edly met with. The librarian, who possesses a sin- 
 gular pains-taking genius, undertook to decypher the 
 MS., and has succeeded very well. He was obliged 
 often to hold the vellum to the light of a window, 
 and sometimes to measure the space left, where a 
 limb of a letter was wanting, in order to determine 
 what to supply. If a whole character was oblite- 
 rated, or still more, if a word was, the space was 
 left naked ; and no attempt was made to fill it with 
 conjectural readings. Much benefit to the cause of 
 sacred criticism was anticipated, from the discovery 
 of this MS. nor has the hope, I believe, been disap- 
 pointed. I was surprised to find the substratum 
 writing so legible, as a close inspection discovered 
 it; but could easily conceive of its being overlooked 
 and neglected, if attention had not been called to it 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. lOT 
 
 by accident. The MS. has been classed, and i? 
 denominated XYZ.* We saw also, in the library, a 
 Latin translation of Petrarch, which was one of the 
 earliest specimens of printing-, and proves how little, 
 comparatively, we have improved this art. The 
 ink is good ; and the letters, making allowance for 
 a little clumsiness in their appearance, are very neat. 
 In the museum, several remarkable curiosities 
 were shown. One was an ancient harp ; the self-same, 
 it is said, which was possessed by ' Brian the brave,' 
 the renowned chieftain, whose ' glories' Moore has 
 sung", and bade us ' remember.' The provost assur- 
 ed us that it could be traced back, and be identified 
 as his, by a chain of convincing evidence. The 
 frame is fantastically carved, and was formerly en- 
 riched with ornaments of value. These, however, 
 were purloined a long while ago, when the harp was 
 sent with the regalia of the Irish princes to the Pope 
 at Rome ; at least, so says the legend. — Credat Jud(eus. 
 — The museum possesses also, many antique utensils, 
 and pieces of armour, which have been found at dif- 
 ferent times, in various parts of the country, under 
 bogs, fens, and mosses. But our attention was par- 
 ticularly called to two swords, of singular make and 
 temper. The metal is mixed, and proved to be the 
 
 * The provost subsequently showed the writer a printed fac- 
 simile of this MS. which was very beautiful, as well as accu- 
 rate ; and executed at the expense of the college. He has seen 
 some other copies from the same impresb.ion, in dift'erent public 
 libraries, one of which is in that of Harvard university, under 
 the title of Codex Rescriptus. 
 
lot EXCURSION FROM 
 
 same composition with that of the Carthaginian 
 swords, which have been dug np from the plains of 
 Cannae. The implements themselves, are precisely 
 similar in shape : and swords of this kind» are known 
 to have been made and used only by Carthaginians. 
 These weapons, antiquarians have seized upon to 
 confirm an opinion, that a connexion and friendly in- 
 tercourse were maintained between Ireland and 
 Carthage, during the prosperity of that republic. 
 
 The anatomical museum contains a large number 
 of preparations, illustrative of the physiology of the 
 human frame. Many of them are horribly natural. 
 In the collection, there are several full length wax 
 figures of females, exhibiting their distinctive anato- 
 my, and representing them in every stage of gesta- 
 tion. Among other mirabilia, we beheld the skele- 
 ton of a man who died of ossification. This is said 
 to have been occasioned by his habits of life. He 
 was addicted to inebriety, and being poor, was some- 
 times obliged to pass his nights upon the bare 
 ground. This produced various arthritic obstruct- 
 tions, which terminated in the manner mentioned. 
 The skeleton of the famous ' Irish giant' was an- 
 other object. His height was eight feet and an half: 
 and the present stature of his skeleton is wonder- 
 fully tall ; although, of course, materially reduced 
 from the size of the living body. Animal calculi, 
 both stones and gravel, were also seen ; some of a 
 comparatively enormous size. Two or three of the 
 former, measured seven or eight inches in circum- 
 ference. • 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. l6i» 
 
 The university kitchen, with the whole culinary 
 apparatus, is well deserving attention. Cooking is 
 performed entirely by the agency of steam, the spits 
 are turned by its operation, and the meat and vege- 
 tables are boiled, or rather vapoured in it. From 
 the place of the steam engine, flues are cnrried un- 
 der the floors of the college chapel, and grated 
 openings made at proper intervals through the pav- 
 ed aisles; by which means, the room above is easily 
 and effectually warmed. Adjoining to the university, 
 are extensive parks and gardens, laid out m walks, 
 for the exercise and recreation of the officers and 
 students. 
 
 The buildings appropriated to residents, resemble 
 Nassau hall at Princeton, and the front view of the 
 Union colleges at Schenectady. The rooms are 
 constructed on a similar principle with those of Hol- 
 worthy hall, at Cambridge, Massachusetls; at least, 
 those which we saw, and they seemed to be a speci- 
 men of all. The whole number of students in 
 Trinity college, is between one thousand and eleven 
 hundred : of these, notwithstanding the great 
 number of college buildings, only about three 
 hundred can be lodged within the wails. The others 
 occupy apartments where they think best, in differ- 
 ent parts of the city. There is a service of prayer 
 in the chapel, three times a day. The students can- 
 not all be accommodated in it at once, but they ob- 
 serve some order, by which they are each present 
 during one of the seasons. At a certain hour each 
 
 10 
 
110 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 night — nine, I believe, — the college gates are closed, 
 and the students are obliged, under penalty of a fine, 
 to report themselves before 12 o'clock to the young- 
 est fellow, who is called dean. To prevent their 
 entering or escaping from the rooms at unseasonable 
 hours, the lower windows are secured by iron bars, 
 in the same way as prisons and bridewells. 
 
 The funds of the college are invested in real es- 
 tate, chiefly lands, which yield annually, about 16 or 
 J217000 sterling. Three large additional buildings of 
 free stone, for the occupancy of the students, have 
 lately been erected ; which cost £35000 ; a disburse- 
 ment which has considerably embarrassed the college, 
 and suspended two or three other projected works. 
 
 Having inspected every thing of interest connect- 
 ed with the university, we took leave of our very 
 obliging conductors about 12 o'clock, and returned 
 to the Commercial Buildings. The remainder of 
 the morning was occupied with engagements on 
 H****'s account, who leaves Dublin this evening, 
 in the packet for Holyhead. This valued friend has 
 continued with me longer than I had reason to hope 
 on leaving Edinburgh ; but the pleasure which I 
 have had in the lengthened intercourse, only adds 
 to the regret which I experience in the present se- 
 paration. The hours which I have passed in his 
 jsociety, have left with me many recollections which 
 can never be obliterated, and which will ever be 
 ^ilear to feeling. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. Ill 
 
 Navis, quae tibi creditum 
 
 Debes Amicum^ finibus Anglicis 
 
 Reddas incolumenij piecor, 
 
 Et serves animae dimidiuin mcae. 
 
 April ^'d. — There is a paio which attends the sep- 
 arating- from a fellow countryman in a foreign land, 
 which, though at times modified and reduced by 
 connecting circumstances, can never weigh lightly on 
 a bosom of common sensibility. Simply an identity 
 in the land of their birth, however remote therein 
 may be the places of their abode from each other, 
 is sufficient at a distance to attach individuals in ties 
 of close fellowship, who else, if mutually brought 
 into the society of each other, would be contented 
 with a cold and formal intercourse. A disunion 
 moreover of such a connection would be followed 
 by regrets, w^hich it would be difficult to subdue, 
 however they might be disguised ; but where, as is 
 sometimes the case, separation takes place from a 
 companion united to another, not conventionally, but 
 by the intimacies of a tried and lengthened regard, 
 the aching heart bears testimony to the void which 
 is produced, and experiences a sensation of loneli- 
 ness, which it can neither repress nor define. 
 
 Such was the state of feeling with which I yester- 
 day bade adieu to H * * * *. Returning from Daw- 
 son street where we had parted, I retraced my steps 
 to my lodgings, in a mood which was any thing but 
 cheerful. Though surrounded as I was aware, by 
 friends, new indeed, but who testified every desire 
 
112 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 to contribute to my enjoyment, I could not divest 
 myself of a sense of solitariness. I experienced in 
 fine, the maladie du pays in its full force, and thought 
 that I could then rightly appreciate the feehngs of 
 one whose doom it may be to wear out his days in a 
 distant land, in involuntaiy exile. There was some- 
 thing in the state of the atmosphere around, which 
 rather served to augment, than to allay the gloom 
 which oppressed me. It wanted an elasticity ; and 
 there was a density in it, such as is common in the 
 evenings of a New England November, and which, 
 in the present instance added to the indistinctness of 
 twilight, and gave to each passing countenance, an 
 expression which conveyed the belief, that it was 
 the index of feelings diiferent perhaps in kind, but 
 no ways inferior in intensity to those which I was 
 experiencing. 
 
 I know not whether expositors are agreed in the 
 nature of that ^ evil spirit,' which is related to have 
 afflicted Saul, and which was happily charmed away by 
 the minstrelsy of David. Be the opinion what it may* 
 it is not improbable, I conceive, that a person, from 
 causes of which he is wholly guiltless, may labour 
 at times under a morbid temperament not unhke in 
 its effects^ that which was experienced by the royal 
 sufferer, and which may yield to the kindly influ- 
 ence of a similar remedy. At any rate, I was re- 
 solved to make trial of the application, and on my 
 return, recollecting to have heard that the race of 
 the ancient Irish harpers was not wholly extinct, and 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 113 
 
 that one or two were still to be met with in the 
 city, I despatched a servant immediately oa the 
 search. An hour or more had elapsed, and I was 
 beginning to despair of his success, when a noise 
 upon the staircase, and subsequently along the passage 
 leading to my apartments, induced me to apprehend, 
 that the ' bards of an hundred harps' were approach- 
 ing, and that no less than the court of Brien, with 
 the chieftain's ghostly self were coming on the ' rust- 
 ling blast,' to regale upon the song of former years, 
 and Usten to the voice of their praise. The door 
 was opened, and two men entered bearing a harp, 
 the form and size of which showed plainly enough 
 that it was of no Irish origin, and had never sound- 
 ed in the halls of Tara, however it might in those of 
 Lewellyn. The harper came next, supporting him- 
 self by a staff with his right hand, and leaning upon 
 the arm of one of the house servants with the other. 
 A stripling of an interesting appearance followed, 
 who, from his age and countenance, I supposed was 
 his grandson. Behind these, at some distance, were 
 two or three of the family household, who were 
 drawn after by motives of curiosity. 
 
 Though far from expecting the Welsh harp, and 
 particularly with such a convoy, I had little leisure 
 to ruminate on the disappointment. The harper 
 himself soon arrested my attention, and produced an 
 impression which can never be erased. His ap- 
 pearance throughout, was prepossessing and venera- 
 ble. Though his countenance was much furrowed, 
 
 10=^ 
 
1 14 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 it retained a benignant expression ; and his person 
 was tall and commanding, notwithstanding a slight 
 inclination, the effect of his years. What remained 
 of his hair, which was almost white with age, was 
 collected behind, and hung loosely upon his should- 
 ers. His dress was comme il faut ; in other words, 
 Sufficiently singular to be in keeping. But the inter- 
 terest which was inspired by his general appearance, 
 was heightened by perceiving that whatever might 
 be his joy in the ' light of the song,' he mourned 
 the extinction of the visual ray, and that at least in 
 fate, if not in renown, he claimed kindred with 
 
 Blind Thamyris, and blind McEonide» 
 And Tiiesiasand Phineus, prophets old. 
 
 Being led to a seat, and having paused a little to 
 Tecover breath, he commenced putting his instru- 
 ment in order, and at the same time returned replies 
 to the inquiries which I made, in a manner which 
 still further awakened sj^mpathy. He was from 
 Wales, he said, and a native of Anglesea. In early 
 life he was deprived of his sight, and obhged, by con- 
 sequence, to resort for a livelihood to his present 
 occupation.*^ Finding himself at length neglected io 
 
 * The case of many who when deprived of vision, enjoy a 
 peculiar refinement in the sense of hearing as well as touch, can- 
 not have failed to strike the most casual observer. Any one who 
 has resided in a large city, may probably bring to mind some 
 professed musician, blind either from birth, or by some casu- 
 alty in later life. Milton, who has recorded liis own ca^- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 115 
 
 common with his few other associates, he rosolved 
 on crossing the channel, in the hope of bettering his 
 condition by pursuing his calUng among a people of 
 kindlier feelings. He had been in this city a num- 
 ber of years, and had met with encouragement, 
 (hough that, he said, had declined. ' I can remem- 
 ber,' he added, ' when the harper was every where 
 received with a welcome, and found a ready home. 
 But times have changed, and I too have changed. I 
 feel the chills of age increasing daily upon me, and 
 I fear that there will be little seeming cause of won- 
 der at my declining estimation, should any past skill 
 which I may have possessed, be judged of from 
 my present efforts.' I assured him, that he wrong- 
 ed me if he thought that I was not already sufficient- 
 ly interested to admire any trials on his instrument ; 
 and to his inquiry if there were any airs which I 
 would propose, he was gratified by my replying that 
 his own native music would be preferable, although 
 
 amity in immortal verse, had an ear not more delicately per- 
 ceptive of the harmony of numbers, than attuned to the nicest 
 melody of sounds. It was his morning's recreation, either to 
 listen to, or bear a part in various exercises of music, in the 
 science of which he greatly excelled. Carolan, the famous 
 Irish musician, was blind. His name in connection with this 
 fact, recals a circumstance which the writer omitted to men- 
 tion in its proper place. In the chapel of the castle, he saw 
 a sculptured head of this musician on the front of the organ 
 loft, with a note book before it, although, as is well known, 
 he was horn blind. This blunder, which might be regarded 
 whimsical enough in any place, may be termed in reference to 
 its Hibernian oii'iiii, an avhitectural Bull. 
 
lis EXCURSION FROM 
 
 I wished him to consult his own taste in the particu- 
 lar selection. 
 
 While his hand passed over the string and touched a 
 hasty symphony, I endeavoured to define the impres- 
 sion which the unlooked for appearance of a figure so 
 extraordinary had excited. He seemed to belong to 
 an earlier age, and to represent the hard of Fingal 
 or some kindred minstrel. His song I felt assured 
 must be that of other times ; and while my memory 
 reverted to that description of Ossian, — ' Night 
 closed around ; Carril struck the harp, his grey hair 
 glittering in the beam,' — 1 was prepared to respond 
 to the call of some viewless spirit, ' Son of Alpin 
 strike the string and let the voice of music arise. 
 I stand in the cloud of years ; few are its openings 
 towards the past, and v.'hen the vision comes, it is 
 but dim and dark ; but 1 hear thee, harp of Cona ! 
 my soul returns like a breeze which the sun brings 
 back to the vale where dwelt the lazy mist.' 
 
 However high my expectations of the harpers 
 skill had been raised, and however much his appear- 
 ance had prepossessed me, I was nowise disappoint- 
 ed by what followed. As the tones which he waked 
 struck upon his ear, his frame seemed to feel an 
 inspiring energy, and his countenance beamed with 
 the fire which kindled in his bosom. His hand 
 forgot the palsy of age, and ' swept the sounding 
 chords,' with a boldness and freedom, combined 
 with a delicacy and correctness, which proved that 
 he was still capable of sustaining the honours of 
 
EDmBURGH TO DUBLIN. 117 
 
 minstrelsy, and that, though last, he was not least in 
 the line of Cambrian Bards. I had heard this 
 instrument repeatedly played before, but never with 
 an effect comparable to the present. The harper 
 was as willing to prolong its tones, as 1 was to enjoy 
 them ; and after an entertainment of two hours, 
 which succeeded not merely in chasing my own 
 gloom, but in communicating a kindred satisfaction 
 to many others, he concluded, at my desire, with the 
 national air, ' Of noble race was Shenkin,' — an air, 
 which, to my taste, unites within its short compass, 
 all the sweetness and all the majesty of song. 
 
 I was happy a few days ago, in forming an ac- 
 quaintance with Mr. R******* a junior fellow in 
 tlie university, and a gentleman of extraordinary 
 acquirements. At the early age of fourteen, he 
 published a volume of poems which possess no 
 inconsiderable merit, notwithstanding their being the 
 production of a mind so juvenile. Six years after- 
 wards, he was elected to his present office which 
 was a flattering distinction, as vacancies in these 
 fellowships are supplied out of many competitors 
 who undergo very rigorous public examinations. 
 These examinations are often prolonged through 
 three days, and of course require a thorough prepa- 
 ration. Mr. R., though scarcely 23 years of age, 
 has since amply fulfilled the expectations which 
 were formed by the early expansion of his genius, 
 and the singular precocity of his reputation. 
 
m EXCURSION FROM 
 
 Breakfasting at his rooms this morning, I had the 
 pleasure to meet two or three other very intelli- 
 gent gentlemen, who hold fellowships in Trinity 
 College. The whole number of these livings in the 
 university, is twenty-two ; seven senior, and fifteen 
 junior. The salaries of the senior fellows are large ; 
 varying from 7 to £900 sterling. Those of most of 
 the junior are as low as £120 and even £100 ; but 
 then they have the prospect of rising to the higher 
 form by right of eldership, and they receive in the 
 meanwhile a large part of the avails from tuition. 
 Besides these fellowships, the university has three 
 medical professorships, and five which it owes to 
 royal munificence in the several departments of 
 divinity, common law, civil law, materia medica and 
 Greek. There are also professors of mathematics, 
 natural philosophy, botany, rhetoric and the oriental 
 tongues. 
 
 The course of discipline and instruction in Trinity 
 college, is modelled after the habits of the English 
 universities. The students are divided into three 
 ranks, fellow-commoners, pensioners and sizers. 
 The latter are supported, or receive assistance in an 
 eleemosynary manner chiefly, though, in return, 
 they perform some slight services, such as are 
 required of the poorer scholars in some American 
 colleges. Each student on entering the university, 
 has the liberty of choosing whether he will be a 
 feilow-commoner, or a pensioner. If the former, 
 Ms necessary expenses are nearly doubled. He 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 119 
 
 .sits, indeed, at the same table in the hall with the 
 fellows, and enjoys a few other privileges ; but as 
 each student on becoming a member of the univer- 
 sity is obliged to enter his name with one of the 
 junior fellows in order to pursue his studies under 
 his direction, the fellow-commoner, if the individual 
 chooses to become one, is charged about as much 
 again as the pensioner ; that is to say, about £30 
 annuall}'^ to the officer, instead of 15 or £16. And 
 this is but one item in the increased expenditure. 
 Sons of noblemen, and of the richer and more distin- 
 guished gentry, become fellow-commoners, but the 
 pensioners, as might be supposed, constitute the 
 great body of the students. Evening tea and break- 
 fast, are taken both by fellows and pupils in their 
 respective rooms, but dinner is served up in the 
 refectory, or public hall. It is common with the 
 junior fellows to complain of the burden of their 
 duties, and they look forward with considerable 
 impatience to the period when with their office 
 they may enjoy oiium cum dignitate ; or rather to 
 transpose the phrase, dignitatem cum otio. But they 
 are subjected to a grievance, of which some are 
 disposed more loudly to complain, although, perhaps, 
 it is but a fair offset for the comforts attendant upon 
 an academic living. By a special provision in the 
 college statutes, a fellow in the university is doomed 
 to a life of celibacy, unless a dispensation from the 
 inhibition is procured from the king. 
 
129 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 It was gratifying^ to me, to take a still nearei: 
 view than I had yet obtained of the manners of the 
 Dublin literati, and this I enjoyed at the dinner- 
 table of the provost, in the evening". The Rev. 
 gentleman had requested my company, with a view, 
 as he politely intimated, of making me acquainted 
 with a few men of letters, whom he proposed bring- 
 ing together on the occasion. Thirty or more guests 
 were assembled, among whom were the most pro- 
 minent characters connected with the university, 
 and also several eminent city sa-oans. Conversation 
 was dignified, but tempered with a proper degree of 
 freedom. It had nothing of that buckram which is 
 often found to mark both the conversation and man- 
 ners of those, who, devoted to sedentary and con- 
 templative pursuits, prefer a life of seclusion to that 
 collision with the world, which tends to brighten 
 what is solid, and give currency to what is valuable. 
 
 If my opportunities for forming an estimate of the 
 polite, as well as intellectual society of Dublin had 
 been confined to the present, the result could not 
 have failed to be in the highest degree favourable. 
 I recollect, before my arrival here, to have heard a 
 friend in a panegyric upon the country, pronounce 
 an Irish gentleman to be a finished gentleman. 
 How far this opinion was founded upon an amiable 
 but undue partiality consequent upon a cordial re- 
 ception which he had himself experienced, I had 
 then to learn. The result in my own mind has 
 since been, that the belief was in no respect erro- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 121 
 
 neous. The polished inhabitant of Dublin has all 
 that high-toned refinement of manners, which charac- 
 terises the gentry of the same rank, in the English 
 and Scottish capitals ; and from a constitutional 
 warmth and frankness of feehng, superadds an urba- 
 nity to his courtesies, which oftentimes the stranger 
 in vain looks for among them. Of the guests who 
 were assembled at the Provost's, there were gentle- 
 men who to their other information, added the obser- 
 vations which they had made by foreign travel ; and 
 I was not disappointed in finding that while they 
 had thereby shaken off every undue local prejudice, 
 they cherished an unabated, nay it would seem, a 
 stronger attachment towards the land of their birth. 
 It would be reasonable to expect that the univer- 
 sity should partake much of this pride, which re- 
 spects the country generally ; but a stranger, at least 
 an American, might be surprised on learning the 
 estimation in which it is actually held. In sohd 
 science. Trinity college professes to yield to no uni- 
 versity in the Three Kingdoms, excepting Cam- 
 bridge ; and with that it aspires, at no distant day, to 
 cope successfully. Less however, is known of it in 
 America, I am inclined to think, than of the British 
 universities ; and even the English scholars have af- 
 fected, till of late, a sadduceism in respect to its 
 claims. But leaving to other hands the decision of 
 these, I would just remark in passing, that the inves- 
 titure of the gown, is by no means thought to pre- 
 clude the wearer from the privilege, of blending 
 
 11 
 
m EXCURSION FROM 
 
 with the pursuits of pure learning, the art of good 
 living. The provost's table presented a luxurious 
 display of viands, and the glasses, as they briskly 
 circulated, sparkled with wines of ' ruby' brightness, 
 and rarest excellence. The guests who returned to 
 the drawing room did not separate till a late hour, 
 and it was nearly one before they all took leave. 
 Sir Richard Musgrave was the magnet. His vivid 
 wit and various anecdote render him the delight of 
 the circles which he frequents ; and on the present 
 occasion, some favourite recollections being awaken- 
 ed, he threw around him the fine sallies of his hu- 
 mour with an- effect which was irresistiblj^ amusing.* 
 
 * The author of these papers may be pardoned for here ex- 
 pressmg a passing acknowledgment for the attentions which he 
 received from this gentleman during his stay in Dublin, and for 
 the remembrance v>^ith which he subsequently honoured him. 
 Sir Richard, though then in the vigour of health and usefulness, 
 lived but about ten months after, and fell a victim to the typhus 
 fever in its destructive march through Ireland. He possessed a 
 mind of strong native powers, which had been greatly strength- 
 ened by culture and exercise ; but at the same time, he inherited 
 an impetuosity of feeling, which occasionally hurried him be- 
 yond the bounds of strict prudence, particularly on political 
 ground. As a citizen, notwithstanding, he was eminently use- 
 ful, and rendered important services to government. Nor did 
 any political predilections ever cause him to swerve from what 
 lie conceived to be the path of duty. His opponents never dar- 
 ed to arraign the purity of his motives ; and in the various offii- 
 ces which he sustained, all parties did homage to his command* 
 ing talents, and his stern and unbending integrity. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 123 
 
 The Dublin hours of dining, are immoderately 
 late. The four and five o'clock habits of North 
 Britain were sufficiently unreasonable, at least ac- 
 cording to my plain Yankee notions ; but the good 
 citizens of Dublin prefer to follow more closely the 
 Westminster standard : six, half past six, and sevea 
 are usual hours of appointment on cards ; and I have 
 sat down to dinner as late as eight. 
 
 April 30. — I have repeatedly admired, in my 
 walks through the city, the new Post office which is 
 erecting on a magnificent scale ; and which when 
 completed, will not only form a great architectural 
 embellishment to Dubhn, but be probably the most 
 perfect establishment of the kind in the world. It 
 occupies a fine position near Nelson's monument, 
 and presents a noble front. 
 
 The method of conveying letters by the general 
 post is now under excellent regulation in Ireland ; 
 and for safety and despatch is not surpassed even in 
 England. The mail coaches are provided with 
 guards, who with the driver, are well armed ; and 
 they travel at the rate of eight miles an hour, ia- 
 cluding the necessary delays. 
 
 Among other methods which were devised by the 
 conspirators in the Rebellion of 1798 to convey in- 
 teUigence, it was agreed that the signal for the 
 general rising should be the stoppage of the public 
 coaches which daily departed from the Metropohs 
 to different parts of the kingdom. The agents ap-. 
 pointed to carry into execution this resolve, to make 
 
124 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 thorough work, not content with detaining, actually 
 destroyed and burnt the Belfast coach near Santry, 
 the Athlone coach at Lucan, and the Cork, near 
 Naas ; — and to add to the atrocity of the whole, at 
 Kildare, they wantonly murdered the guard and 
 driver of a mail coach which was on its way to Li- 
 merick. These outrages but faintly illustrate the 
 introductory horrors of that rebellion, whose whole 
 course was marked with devastation and blood ; a 
 rebellion, which reared its baleful head in defiance 
 of all order and of law ; and which not only threat- 
 ened at its birth the prostration of every barrier of 
 legitimate sovereignty in Ireland, but shook the pil- 
 lars of the British throne. 
 
 It is worthy of remark that whatever may be the 
 grievances under which the poorer classes in this 
 country have for a long period laboured, all disturban- 
 ces which have had redress for their ostensible object, 
 have been distinctly traceable to Catholic instigation. 
 I well know indeed that the Catholics themselves 
 have been subjected to an oppression which has cal- 
 led loudly for atonement ; — and that reparation has 
 been too tardily administered. But yet facts will 
 bear me out when I say, that till of late they have 
 uniformly resisted the most judicious schemes for 
 the amelioration and improvement of their condi- 
 tion, which the exigency would admit, — and this, 
 simply on the ground of their protestant origin. 
 Praise-worthy endeavours have been made in many 
 districts by wealthy episcopalians, to instruct and 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 125 
 
 enlighten the lower orders of society, without re- 
 gard to religious distinctions, but with little success. 
 As late as the year 1801, a female charity school 
 was established at Wexford, the object of which was 
 to educate poor children, whether papist or pro- 
 t^stant, in reading and writing, and to train them to 
 habits of useful industry. Apparel was also provid- 
 ed for them. At first there were eighty children 
 who resorted to it ; of whom fifty-two were Catho- 
 lics. But the happy effects which were anticipated 
 were well nigh being utterly defeated by the bigotry 
 of a popish priest in the city. He took occasion on 
 a sabbath to announce to his parishioners that any of 
 them who should continue to send their children to 
 the school should be excommunicated. To avoid 
 this penalty the latter were accordingly withdrawn. 
 With such a spirit abroad as this anecdote attests, 
 it has been found diflicult by the benevolent of the 
 protestant persuasion to bring their plans for the 
 benefit of the Catholic poor, to bear with the desir- 
 ed effect ; and it is lamentable that a country which 
 for natural advantages yields to none in Europe, and 
 which was last in the train of vassals which bowed 
 to the domination of the Roman see,* should so long 
 have groaned under a multitude of evils, either re- 
 sulting from the ignorance and bigotry consequent 
 upon an attachment to the dogmas of that hierarchy, 
 
 * Ireland did not embrace the Catholic roligion till the begin- 
 ning of the twelfth century. 
 
 11 * 
 
126 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 or from the measures resorted to by government to 
 check their influence and neutralize their eifects. 
 
 For a series of years preceding the close of the 
 last century, popery in Ireland was made the vehicle 
 of sedition. The pulpits of Catholics teemed with 
 invectives against protestant power, — harangues 
 which served to inflame the minds of ^n ignorant 
 populace ; — and on the breaking out of the great re- 
 bellion, more than one Romish priest, with a lamb-hke 
 spirit which would have suited the genius of Peter 
 the Hermit, girded the sword and led forth his in- 
 surgent flock. In Wexford, Fathers Michael and 
 John Murphy, par nobile fratrum^ — erected their 
 rebel standards, and having received all who repair- 
 ed to them, marched with fire and sword through 
 that flourishing county, and spread dismay along the 
 borders of Carlow and Waterford. Since the X^nion, 
 or more properly, since the year 1803, when disaf- 
 fection put forth another and a final convulsive 
 struggle, reformation in the habits, the morals, the 
 civil condition of the Irish poor has been making 
 rapid progress. The hopes of the turbulent have 
 been broken by successive defeats. Government 
 has manifested a spirit of concession, without relax- 
 ing from that circumspection and energy necessary 
 to its stability. The free and charter schools which 
 have been opened in different parts of the kingdom 
 have been instrumental in diflusing useful know- 
 ledge, and in disciplining the children of the peasan- 
 try in habits of order and sobriety. The land hold- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. U7 
 
 er has been encourag-ed to enclose and improve his 
 wastes and commons.* English manufacturers and 
 capitalists have been invited to settle in the country, 
 at will ; — and from the conjoint operation of these 
 multiplied causes, thousands have been reclaimed 
 from idleness and vice, and bread has been dealt to 
 famishing multitudes. 
 
 I should be unwilling to omiit subjoining in this 
 place, a remarkable instance of the benefits resulting 
 to the community from a judicious employment of 
 the poor, accompanied with a suitable attention to 
 their morals, which has been evidenced by '1 hos. 
 Nowland, Esq. of Kilkenny. This gentleman hav- 
 ing recently put into operation in that country, a 
 very extensive woollen manufactory, has endeavour- 
 ed to improve to the uttoost, the condition of those 
 whom he employs; and to ascertain whether the 
 establishment, instead of proving a bane to morals, 
 might not be rendered a nursery of correct and ex- 
 emplary habits. The buildings are so arranged as 
 to admit and secure an entire separation of the sexes. 
 The apprentices, besides receiving gratuitously a 
 suitable school education, are presented with the 
 needful elementary books, as well as others of an 
 excellent moral tendency ; and to guard against the 
 evils which are often occasioned by the fluctuations 
 incident to their employment, they are instructed in 
 
 * Not quite a century has elapsed since an Irish Pailiament 
 deemed it necessary to enact that every occupier of one hun- 
 dred acres of land should keep five of them under tillage ; and 
 this was then thought to be seeming a great point. 
 
128 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 the use of the implements of husbandry, and taught 
 to combine thereby, the healthful habits of the pea- 
 sant with the skill and aptitude of the manufacturer. 
 The benefits which were contemplated have been 
 happily realized, and their influence has extended 
 beyond the immediate neighbourhood. ' 'I'hus,' 
 says the humane and enterprising proprietor, (I 
 quote his words from a sketch of the history of the 
 estabHshment, which he presented to the Dubhn so- 
 ciety of arts, and a copy of which, with an engraved 
 view of the buildings, he obligingly presented to 
 me.) ' Thus have peace and civilization been dif- 
 fused around it ; an idle, poor, and ignorant race, 
 have been converted into an industrious, educated, 
 and moral people ; and in securing the happiness of 
 above 300 individuals, its immediate objects, it has 
 thrown a shield over the persons and property of all 
 within the sphere of its influence and enabled them, 
 though within a few miles of a disturbed district, to 
 isleep secure without lock or bolt.^ 
 
 I return from these remarks to the incidents of 
 my narrative. There is a singular vehicle used in 
 this city called a car, and another little less singular, 
 though rather more comfortable, termed a jingle. 
 They have no tops, and are drawn by one horse. 
 The former has a square body swung low, without 
 any sides, and having two seats which are placed in 
 the middle, and disposed lengthwise. Each of these 
 seats can accommodate three passengers ; who are 
 obliged to sit back to back, with their sides, instead of 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 129 
 
 their faces, towards the horse. The latter vehicle re- 
 sembles somewhat the body of a common coach, 
 with the top off; and the seats being placed at the 
 sides, allow the passengers to sit face to face, al- 
 though with the same awkward position towards the 
 horse, as in the other case. The jingle is a good 
 sort of sociable enough, but unmercifully capacious 
 in respect to the poor beast who is to draw it. The 
 ear, on the other hand, or to give it its whole appel- 
 lation, the jaunting car, is much cheaper, and conse- 
 quently in more general use. 
 
 I was desirous, from curiosity, to try the motion 
 of this vehicle ; its uncouth appearance in passing, 
 having more than once drawn a smile from me. 
 Walking yesterday with Capt. M***** of the Navy, 
 towards a friend's house, I incidentally mentioned 
 the thought. ' Allans done ;' said he, ' we will make 
 the trial together.' I confess, I did not think that he 
 would have closed with the suggestion quite so read- 
 ily ; however acceding, I deviated with him to a 
 turn in the street, not far from a station on which 
 we saw two of these machines, and their drivers in 
 the most pacific mood possible, stretched upon the 
 pavement near them. Our distant call brought them 
 along side of their jaded horses, but not till after a 
 furious scramble, of which their parti-coloured ap- 
 parel had most reason to complain, coming olT as 
 usual, second best. Plying their whips and running 
 along side, they then urged the poor animals into a 
 sort of half gallop towards the place where we were 
 
130 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 waiting ; but in point of fleetness, it was easy to see 
 that their masters greatly outdid them. Not content 
 too, with pushing his own beast, honest Pat had an 
 eye to his neighbour's, and while he lashed here, he 
 counterlashed there, and this kind office being reci- 
 procated, we had begun to apprehend on the princi- 
 ple of opposite forces, that their luckless steeds 
 would be soon brought to a stand ; but a smart stroke 
 being applied by one of them across the forehead of 
 the horse of his rival, the ire of the latter rose to a 
 towering height, and disdaining to avenge himself 
 upon a less object, he coiled his whip with tremen- 
 dous eifect about the legs of his comrade, and leav- 
 ing him to recover as well as he might from this 
 coup-de-grace ^ made another effort to reach our 
 ground and succeeded. 
 
 The drapery of Fat when he came up, was well 
 worthy of inspection. The coat looked truly venera- 
 ble, and with its many scars of many similar contests, 
 showed like a tattered banner in St. Paul's. It had 
 suffered so severely m this latter engagement, from a 
 rent having found its way from the division of the 
 skirts to the cape, that it would, without fail, have 
 called forth our sympathies but for Pat's coolly re- 
 marking, that it had parted in the same place the 
 week before, and doubtless, we thought, more than 
 once before that. We were soon in the crazy ve- 
 hicle, and Pat was on his stand, although hardly on 
 his seat. Guiding the reins with one hand, and 
 flourishing the other towards his foiled antagoni&t in 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. I3I 
 
 the rear, he dealt out a rhodomontade with ' arrah, 
 and whip Peg, will you? Och, by my shoul, but i'il 
 crack a shillala upoa your drum head when I get 
 back, my hoaey, wont I ? Aye, and every mudder^s 
 son like you, blood and oundsbut 1 will though, och.' 
 But his rhetoric, notwithstanding reiteration, was un- 
 happily lost upon the other, who had better employ- 
 ment than listening ; and as long as the vehicle was 
 in sight, pursued it with a similar bilhngsgate rejoin- 
 der, marvellously to our satisfaction. 
 
 Friend Pat in the meanwhile drove on, despite 
 of our remonstrance, with all attainable speed; the 
 car occasionally giving us a jolt which the ribs of Peg 
 could scarcely have withstood. At length it was in- 
 timated, that as no terms had been made, it was at 
 our option to pay him by the time. Immediately Pat 
 recollected that his beast had been drove ' owr hard' 
 in the morning, and ' wa'ant it a pity if their hon- 
 ors wa'ant in no haste to drive a poor cratur to death 
 for nothing.' Peg understanding the hint, soon 
 trudged in a provokingly slow pace. * Why Pat,' 
 we both spoke as we were going up a slight ascent, 
 when the animal once or twice seemed actually 
 asleep, ' why Pat, you do not call this a hill V ' Och, 
 your honors, but I don't call it a hollow ;' and such 
 was the spirit of all his replies. Proceeding with 
 this hearse-like march, along Stephen's green, where 
 the gallant Captain has many friends, our humble 
 equipage did not prevent several fair hands from being 
 waved, accompanied however with a smile and look 
 
132 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 of inquiry; but neither of us had cause to regret 
 our arrival at the place of debarkation. Pat receiv- 
 ed for the passage, just double the legal fare ; but 
 hoping to better the account, wished '• their honors' 
 to consider the time that had been spent ; and, 'had'nt 
 he lost opportunities therefore to drive other jontil- 
 men,' and '• fath he could'nt tah the fi' ten-pennies.' 
 My friend glancing significantly, requested a return 
 of the monej^, which was readily given back in the 
 hope of an increase. Pocketing it however, he was 
 proceeding deliberately up the steps, when Pat 
 timed a suitable acknowledgment, and receiving ' no- 
 thing loth,' the ten-pennies, mounted his car, and 
 drove back to settle the point of honour with his 
 comrade. 
 
 The corrupt use of language in pronunciation, for 
 which this country is so noted, that even the dogs 
 have been said to hark in a brogue^ is not a little grat- 
 ing to a stranger's ear, until familiarized by use. It 
 is sensibly worse than the yeow and other Joe- 
 Bunkerisms of New-England, but after all it is not 
 quite so bad as i had been led to imagine. It is de- 
 cidedly preferable in my opinion to the broad Scotch, 
 and most of the provincial dialects in England ; and 
 this which is true of the lower orders, is the more re- 
 markable the higher the parallel is carried. The bet- 
 ter classes of Dublin have little of the Hibernian sib- 
 boleth ; and its men of letters speak the English lan- 
 guage with even Oxonian purity. Their organs of 
 utterance are as flexile as those of the Londoners, 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 133 
 
 and they enjoy this advantage over them, at least 
 over the cockneys of Bow Bell, that without any 
 of their dipt, mincing pronunciation, they bring 
 their words out full and well coined. The citi- 
 zens of Edinburgh, on the other hand, have a muf- 
 fled tone of voice ; and they articulate in such a 
 trotting, up and down cadence, that an English ear 
 is half the time puzzled to know whether they are 
 serious. 
 
 The Irish have a great vivacity in conversation, 
 and are distinguished, as is well known, for a fond- 
 ness of metaphor and a quickness of illustration. 
 Various instances of the latter pecuUarity are present 
 to my mind, although it is sufficient to mention only 
 one. Being with a mixed party at a friend's house 
 the other day, conversation turned upon the proba- 
 ble effects of the redundant population of the sister 
 isle, and particularly of that enormous mass concen- 
 trated in London. ' England' said one, ' I conceive 
 to be valetudinarian. She is an hydrocephalus sub- 
 ject ; and the peccant humours which are collected in 
 London as its head^ will, ere long, prove the destruc- 
 tion of the whole body politic' ' You are not quite 
 right there,' rejoined another, ' it is no morbid action. 
 England remains as sound as ever. But she is not 
 rightly burdened ; a sailor would call her crank. In 
 a word, she is top-heavy ; and depend upon it, Lon- 
 don is the head which will sink the nation.^ 
 
 I have before taken occasion to hazard an opinion 
 
 upon the soi-disant beauty of the Irish women. From 
 
 12 
 
134 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 the general sentiment as then advanced, I have found 
 no cause hitherto to dissent; although I am free to 
 say, that I have paid a willing homage to a few sig- 
 nal exceptions to its truth. The remark however, 
 was in no respect intended to touch upon the accom- 
 plishments in mind or manners of the Dublin fair, for 
 the fascinations of these, a stranger cannot fail at 
 first glance, to acknowledge and admire. To day, 
 too, in a circle at the solicitor-general's, I met with 
 ladies who, for beauty of countenance and person, 
 not only reflect a brilliancy upon the Emerald Isle, 
 but would grace the splendours of any Parisian cote- 
 rie. The lady of the S. G. is herself distinguished 
 for the elegance of her appearance, and combines a 
 finished refinement of manners with the reported en- 
 dowments of an exrilted mind. The evening amuse- 
 ments of the drawing room were interspersed with 
 music on the piano and harp, in the execution of 
 which, great skill and taste were displayed. 
 
 But I must not forget to mention a gratification 
 which I have experienced, in hearing the tones of 
 the true Irish harp. The Welsh performer who had 
 so greatly interested me, informed me that he knew 
 of one who played that instrument in this city, and 
 that whenever I should wish it, he would procure 
 his attendance. In the course of this morning, I ac 
 cordingly sent to have him produced. His harp was 
 about one half the size of the common pedal harp, 
 and one third, that of the Welsh. It was strung with 
 wire instead of catgut, as is the latter, and this gave 
 
EDIjN BURGH TO DUBLIN. 135 
 
 its tones a sharper, indeed, somewhat a shrill sound. 
 The music nevertheless was good, and struck my 
 fancy very much. It was heightened perhaps by as- 
 sociation; the airs which were selected being na- 
 tive Irish, and they embraced the best of Tom 
 Moore's Melodies, not forgetting the ' harp that 
 once through Tara's halls,' and the ' glories' of brave 
 Brien. The appearance of the harper was very lit- 
 tle a-la-mode. He was a plain, prose-like looking 
 being ; but of civil manners and address. He was 
 born in Ulster, somewhere in the neighbourhood of 
 Belfast, and had come to Dublin with an associate 
 who now shares with him the gains and honours of 
 minstrelsy. 
 
 May 1st. — This is May-day, but Dublin has ex- 
 hibited few of those festivities which used to mark 
 the occasion, and which are still kept up in many 
 parts of England. The most that I have seen out 
 of the common course is the grotesque appearance 
 of the chimney-sweeps. This is a holyday to them, 
 and well it would be for the sake of humanity if 
 they had the first day of every month. They deck 
 themselves on the present occasion with figured 
 paper-caps and ornaments, and patrole the side 
 walks soliciting season-pence from every passenger. 
 Usquebaugh, perhaps, has flowed rather more copi- 
 ously than usual ; and Pat accordingly has been in 
 his element. Passing near several tap-rooms, my 
 ear was regaled by the melody of that lyre of all 
 nations, the fiddle ; whilst Teague was keeping 
 
,13S EXCURSION FROM 
 
 time to the chorus with a ' nate little bit of a tid- 
 re-i.' 
 
 The Foundling hospital established here, is a most 
 humane institution. I had hitherto deferred a visit 
 to it, but should have regretted deeply to have left 
 the city without seeing it. The measures which 
 are adopted by the managers of this hospital for the 
 preservation of children, undoubtedly rescue annu- 
 ally a large number from death. It has been usu- 
 al for a cradle to be kept constantly at the gate for the 
 reception of those exposed, that parents might be 
 deterred from the crime of infanticide, either through 
 inability to give them support, or a desire to avoid 
 a detection of their shame. The institution is sup- 
 ported solely by the inhabitants of Dublin, although 
 infants are brought to it from all parts of the king- 
 dom. A tax of j£l 0,000 yearly is collected for this 
 purpose from the city and liberties, which is raised 
 chiefly by an assessment of one shilling in the pound 
 on each house. 1 he children who are admitted in- 
 to the establishment average one hundred and eighty 
 a month ; but a mortality of one fourth for the same 
 period has not been unfrequent. The hospital it- 
 self accommodates one thousand ; and five thousand 
 more are with country nurses. They are all at a 
 suitable age instructed in reading and writing and 
 the principles of the protestant faith, after which 
 they are apprenticed. 
 
 In the nursery there is a clock which was pre- 
 sented by a titled lady some forty or fifty years ago, 
 feut coupled with an inscription which runs in the 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 137 
 
 following serio-comico phraseology, ' For the benefit 
 of inflxnts, — Lady Arabella Denny presents this 
 clock to mark, that as children who are fed by the 
 spoon must have but a small quantity of food at a 
 time, it must be offered frequently. For which pur- 
 pose this clock strikes every twenty minutes, at 
 which notice all the infants that are not asleep must 
 be discreetly fed.' 
 
 A friend accompanied me to Feinagle's school, and 
 Christ church. As the regulations of the former 
 of these are generally known by the many reports 
 which are before the public, and the intimations giv- 
 en in the Art of memory, a description here is un- 
 necessary. The institution, it may be added, has 
 thus far fulfilled expectation and redeemed the 
 pledge of the projector. The arrangements and 
 course of discipline, nevertheless, struck me as 
 needlessly complex and artificial. 
 
 Christ church — to use a strong figure — is the 
 Westminster Abbey of Dublin ; but the actual re- 
 semblance is very imperfect. It is an ancient edifice 
 of little grandeur and less beauty, and was founded 
 as early as the commencement of the eleventh cen- 
 tury. It has undergone few alterations since, except 
 on the south side of the nave, the walls of which fell 
 down in the year 1562. This accident injured se- 
 verely a monument to earl Strongbow — ' the fijrst 
 and pryyicipall invader of Irland 1169, qvi obiit 
 1177,' — as an inscription states ; and happened under 
 the viceroyalty of 
 
 12* 
 
138 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 TH : RIGHT : HONORABL : T : ERL : 
 
 OF : svssEX : l. : levtnt : 
 
 The monument is a curious piece of old statuary, 
 representing tlie earl in armour, with part of a fe- 
 male figure at his side, both lying extended on a 
 block of stone. It is difficult to convey to an Ameri- 
 can an accurate conception of these avncyent speci- 
 mens of sculpture. In cathedrals and abbey 
 churches they are generally found in the side aisles, 
 or between the pillars, or in the chapels and clois- 
 ters which adjoin the main structure. The ashes of 
 those they commemorate are under the pavement 
 somewhere, but not always very near, the location 
 of the monument above being a point of most con- 
 sequence. Sometimes the deceased is represented 
 in a recumbent position upon the top of a raised 
 slab, with the hands closed on the breast, as in the 
 act of praying ; the whole being sculptured from a 
 mass of stone, and presenting a lugubrious spectacle ; 
 looking as natural^ that is, as much like a human form 
 as the outer casing of an Egyptian mummy. Not 
 unfrequenfly a pair, decked in their bridal apparel, 
 are so exhibited, and occasionally a whole family 
 group. If the deceased be a prelate, he is found 
 kneeling in his pontificals and mitre, though not in 
 the most melting mood ; whilst the warrior is seen 
 reclining on his arms, with an aspect grim as that of 
 Gog and Magog of Guildhall memory, or the redoubt- 
 able Jack the Giant killer. In St. Patrick's cathedral 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIA". 139 
 
 I remember to have seen a curious whole length sta- 
 tue of Michael Tregury, formerlj'- metropolitan of 
 Dublin. The venerable primate is exhibited in flow- 
 ing robes with a crosier in his hand ; and an angel is 
 made fast to his side by rings on his fingers. 
 
 But there is another piece of singular statuary 
 which just now occurring to my mind, I mention to 
 introduce an account of some repairs which it un- 
 derwent by a hand not generally deemed the most 
 plastic, which may thence convey an idea of the beau- 
 ties to be looked for in these monumental antiquities. 
 
 lu an old church in the town of Truro, in Corn- 
 wall, there is a large massive monument which is 
 erected to the memory of John Roberts, Esq., who 
 died in 1614. It was originally decorated with se- 
 veral figures, and having fallen into decay, was a few 
 years since repaired by orders of Miss H*** of 
 Lanradick, a descendant of the family. When it 
 was finished the mason presented an account, of 
 which the following is a hteral copy ; — ' To putting 
 one new foot to Mr. John Roberts, mending the 
 other, putting seven new buttons to his coat, and a 
 new string to his breeches'-knees : to two new feet 
 to his wife Philips, mending her eyes and putting a 
 new nosegay into her hand : to two new hands and 
 anew nose to the captain : to two new hands to his 
 wife, and putting a new cuff to her gown : to making 
 and fixing two new wings on Time's shoulders, mak- 
 ing a new great-toe, mending the handle to his sithe, 
 and putting a new blade to it j' — all of which itemIS 
 
140 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 are severally drawn out and balanced by pounds, 
 shillings, and pence. 
 
 Mr. John Roberts, designated by the '• new string 
 to hisbreeches'-knees,' is in a reclining posture, with 
 an open prayer book before him, whilst his lady is 
 lying very comfortably on her side, with the' new 
 nosegay,' in her hand, as specified in the mason's 
 bill. The ' seven new buttons' are plainly distin- 
 guishable, and the captain's ' new nose' and the ' two 
 new feet to his wife Phihps,' are now happily in ex- 
 cellent order. Time, also, with his ' two new wings,' 
 and *• new great-toe,' and sithe handle, looks as 
 blithesome and fresh as any May-day chimney-sweep. 
 
 May 2d. — The weather, ever since my arrival in 
 Dublin, has been uncommonly fine. In a country, 
 nevertheless, so proverbial for its humidity as Ire^ 
 land, I was prepared to expect frequent, if not 
 daily showers ; instead of which I have almost unin- 
 terruptedly enjoyed bright suns and clear skies. 
 Not a drop of rain has fallen since 1 landed at Dona- 
 ghadee ; — the heavens at this moment are arrayed 
 in the deepest blue ; and the sun shines as cheerily 
 as ever it did in Massachusetts. 
 
 This is the more acceptable just now as I had 
 made arrangements to leave Dublin to-day in a vessel 
 bound to the north of England. Were I to consult 
 simply my feelings, my stay here would be protract- 
 ed much longer : — but other and indispensable 
 engagements preclude it. Through the many kind 
 assiduities of friends, however, 1 have been enabled 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 141 
 
 to comprise much within a short period ; — and in 
 reviewing what has transpired, I am induced to 
 beheve that the days which I have spent in this city 
 have been as profitably employed as so many weeks 
 would have been under circumstances less favourable 
 for observation. 
 
 In leaving Dublin it is impossible not to carry 
 with me a gratetul recollection of the urbanity, and, 
 I will add, the overflowing hospitality of its inhabi- 
 tants. Something of this my friends in Scotland had 
 authorized me to anticipate ; and the letters with 
 which they honoured me, gave the promise of every 
 reasonable attention. But after all, it is the manner 
 in which courtesies are shown to the stranger which 
 gives them their chief value ; — and whoever has 
 experienced the cordiality of an Irish welcome 
 knows that there is a kindness expressed by it, 
 which no solicitations of friendship can purchase or 
 ensure. 
 
 In general, I look upon a letter of introduction as 
 a sort of lottery ticket I receive it for better or 
 worse, and am willing to try its fortune ; although 
 nothing is lost by calculating against it ; — and the 
 principle perhaps is one with which every traveller 
 would do well to lay his account. But by this I 
 would not be understood to intimate that an entire 
 neglect of any letter recommendatory need be ap- 
 prehended on its delivery ; — but rather that the 
 bearer should be prepared for that cold, unmeaning 
 acknowledgment of it which shows itself in little 
 
142 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 somethings, which in fact amount to nothings ; or 
 which is satisfied with a general proffer ef civility, 
 or perhaps the giving a soUtary card to some formal 
 dinner or crowded rout, — all which if any one 
 chooses to distinguish by the term hospitality, he is 
 at liberty so to do ; hut he must allow me the privi- 
 lege of dissenting from his construction. The tra- 
 veller, notwithstanding, who visits Dublin, may dis- 
 miss all fears in regard to the fate of his creden- 
 tials. If he comes properly recommended, he will 
 be received with a frank and generous kindness ; 
 and if he possesses any share of sensibility he will 
 go away with deep and lasting impressions of grati- 
 tude. 
 
 Towards my own countrymen, particularly, I am 
 persuaded that a more than common good will is 
 entertained by the better, as well as the humbler 
 classes of inhabitants in this city. The present 
 friendly intercourse subsisting between Great Britain 
 and the United States, is regarded with great satisr 
 faction. It is a topic which I have often heard 
 adverted to ; and whenever mentioned, is accom- 
 panied with the aspiration, Esto perpetuum. 
 
 Being at a friend's house last evening, and conver- 
 sation happening to turn upon the late hostilities 
 between the two countries, — I was amused with 
 the remarks of a lady who ingeniously maintained 
 that not only was it for their mutual interest to per- 
 petuate the present harmony, but that uniformly it 
 had been the wish of England to ^reserve it. In 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 143 
 
 confirmation of her assertions, though with a smile 
 which somewhat betrayed her confidence in the 
 .weight of the evidence adduced, she referred to a 
 little jeu d'esprit which appeared in an American 
 journal on occasion of ]Mr. Rose going out as minister 
 to the United States in the year 1811. 
 
 That Britain seeks for peace these facts disclose, 
 She sends as messenger of Peace a *' Rose ;" 
 The bark which bears that messinger of Peace 
 Is named " Stat-ira," — that's, Let anger cease. 
 
 But further recollections I have at present no leisure 
 to trace. The vessel in which I have taken passage 
 will weigh anchor probably about 1 o''clock. Mean- 
 while, a few leave-takings, — the traveller's penalties, 
 — remain to be attended to. For myself I can 
 truly say, ' Hce sunt Lachrymce rerum. 
 
 May 3d. On board 'Samuel and Thomas,' Irish Sea. 
 
 Yesterday at the hour appointed, I left Dublin, 
 and embarked in the present vessel for Whitehaven, 
 in England. The breeze, though favourable, was 
 light ; and we were acccordingly at first much re- 
 tarded in descending the Liffey, and entering fairly 
 the bay. This, however, allowed me to survey 
 more leisurely the beauties of the latter; and I must 
 say that they disappointed me not a httle. I have 
 often heard this bay compared with that of Naples ; 
 — as indeed every fine bay in the world has been 
 
144 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 I believe, in its turn ; — but certainly if the bay of 
 Naples is no better than this of Dublin they are both 
 decidedly eclipsed by that of Boston. 
 
 Dublin itself is far from making that fine figure, 
 viewed from the water, which I had supposed. 
 It lies low, instead of crowning an eminence at the 
 head of the bay, which might have made it a noble 
 object. It is destitute also of a sufficient number of 
 steeples and domes ; — embellishments requisite to 
 every fine city. It has, it is true, a few ; and these 
 are striking beauties. The private houses, too, of 
 Dublin are large and regularly built, and so far, 
 make a good appearance, whether seen from water 
 or land. The custom-house, and the stupendous 
 mole extending from it three miles into the ocean 
 are magnificent objects. The numerous shipping in 
 the harbour and river, with their gro\'es of masts, — 
 all looked well ; — but still much was wanting to 
 entitle the scene to the high panegyrics which I have 
 heard lavished upon it ; — 1 mean, from that point of 
 view to which I am at present adverting. 
 
 But as we dropt down lower into the bay, the 
 appearance of things improved. The scenery on 
 the left shore became picturesque and pleasing. 
 Several neat villages and hamlets were discovered ; 
 and the houses being well white-washed formed a 
 pretty contrast to the deep verdure around. On the 
 right were seen the blue mountains which skirt the 
 county of Dublin ; and to the east, the more distant, 
 but no less aspiring heights of Wickiow, The 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 145 
 
 bay was covered with the canvass of vessels ; each 
 improving hke ourselves, a favourable change in the 
 wind to leave the port of Dublin. Most of these 
 were distinguished by the flags of their respective 
 countries ; — and I could not avoid smiling at a whim- 
 sical contrast between a Norwegian brig deeply 
 laden, and constructed seemingly durmg the earliest 
 rudiments of ship-building, and a stately American 
 ship, outward-bound for New-Vork, which was 
 ploughing gallantly through the waters, — ' as though 
 she wore the ocean-crown.' — The ' star-spangled 
 banner,' which flaunted gaily from her mast-head, I 
 beheld with a throb of pride. 
 
 Towards night the wind freshened and the coast 
 began rapidly to recede. Having remained on deck 
 during most of the afternoon, I descended to the 
 cabin at eight in the evening ; when casting a last 
 glance at Lambay Isle and the mountains of Wicklow, 
 I bade adieu to dear Erin, — probably, forever. 
 
 Dawn found us near the Isle of Man. The shore 
 is rocky and bold, and we coasted very near it. 
 This island is thirty miles long, and about twelve 
 broad. In its general aspect it is rugged and hilly, 
 and very much resembles Anglesea. Most of the 
 highest grounds seem covered with furze and other 
 small under-wood. There were no trees which I 
 could discern, and the captain asserts that there are 
 none upon the island. This of course cannot be 
 strictly true. The more level tracts appeared well 
 cultivated ; and the whole island seemed populous. 
 
 13 
 
146 EXCURSION FROJVf 
 
 We saw very plainly the towns of Castleton, 
 Douglass and Laxy ; — and sailed so near to the 
 second of these that we descried people passing on 
 horseback or on foot along the strand. The town 
 is pleasantly built ; and is situated at the head of a 
 small semi-circular cove. The duke of Athol has a 
 iine seat near it, which the captain says — for he is 
 hiy oracle just now — is occupied ' by the bishop :' — 
 I suppose he means the bishop of Sodor and Man. 
 The house is situated near the water's edge and is 
 built in the castellated style ; — in front of it is erect- 
 ed a low fort surmounted by a parapet, — a fit 
 emblem, it might be thought, of a church militant. 
 Near the small town of Laxy, and apparently, above 
 it, I noticed a lake of considerable size. From the 
 position in which I viewed it, it seemed in momentary 
 readiness to overleap its banks and pour itself upon 
 the village below. 
 
 It is now about noonday. The wind has continued 
 fresh ; and an half hour ago, we parted from the 
 island standing over from Maughraid's head direct to 
 Whitehaven, distant twenty-five miles. We hope to 
 reach it in three hours. 
 
 My accommodations onboard are tolerable ; nothing 
 better. The captain is disposed to be obliging 
 enough ; but as commander of a vessel, seems 
 destitute of skill, and some other needful qualifica- 
 tions. He kept his birth almost the whole of last 
 night, even during his own watch, which was from 
 12 to 4 o'clock. What aggravated this criminal 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 147 
 
 neglect of duty was the circumstance that the mate 
 of the vessel was drunk, and had been so ever smce 
 our weighing anchor. 
 
 2 P. M. — The weather having been cloudy all 
 day, we did not come within sight of the English 
 coast as soon as 1 had hoped. St. Bee's Head, a 
 large high bluff, was the first land which we descried ; 
 and then it was scarcely five miles distant. The 
 captain has since been employing all hands in 
 unlading the brig of its ballast to save eighteen shil- 
 lings, or a pound, which he would be otherwise 
 obliged to pay to have it removed from the vessel 
 on his getting into harbour. The consequence is 
 that she rolls with considerable violence, and if the 
 wind should increase, the result might be much more 
 unpleasant. 
 
 Whitehaven is the Newcastle of Cumberland. 
 Its coal mines are very valuable, and have been 
 extensively worked. It is said that the miners in 
 following several horizontal veins of coal, after 
 sinking the perpendicular shaft to a great depth, 
 have opened passages fairly under the sea ; that is 
 to say, to a considerable distance without the line of 
 low water mark. Admitting this report to be true, 
 it is singular to reflect that in entering the harbour 
 of Whitehaven, we may be sailing above the heads 
 of human beings, who some hundred feet at least 
 beneath us, are digging unsuspectingly, in ' the 
 bowels of the harmless earth.' 
 
14« EXCURSION FROM 
 
 COCERMOUTH, ClTMBERLAirD Co. SATURDAY EVENIKC. 
 
 At three P. M. we dropt anchor in the little port 
 of Whitehaven, and the next minute found me once 
 more upon English ground. This was a pleasure of 
 no sm ill kind ; and in stepping foot again upon the 
 soil of that country, which contains much that I 
 prize, and more that I admire, I could not refrain 
 from repeating to myself, — ' England, with all thy 
 faults, I love thee still/ 
 
 The same rich verdure which renders the fields 
 of Ireland so lovely, I found mantling the hills of 
 Cumherland. The country, too, immediately round 
 Wliitehaven is intersected with low embankments of 
 earth, clothed with a fine green turf, instead of 
 hedges of thorn ;• — in the same manner as are most 
 of the enclosed lands which I saw m Ireland. The 
 quays of Whitehaven are numerous and excellent ; 
 but the town itself boasts of little beauty. The 
 poorer inhabitants, whether men, women, or chil- 
 dren, wear large clumsy, wooden shoes, which make 
 a very disagreeable clattering as they tread the 
 pavement ; but disagreeable as the sound is, I am 
 much more pleased with it, than being obliged to see 
 the same classes of people, walking the streets 
 barefoot, as is the case among the Irish. 
 
 Repairing to an inn, I learnt that no coaches 
 would proceed to Keswick before Monday ; — a place 
 which 'i wish much to take in my route to Edinburgh 
 —and finding also no post-horses disengaged I was 
 obliged, though very reluctantly, to make up my 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 149 
 
 mind to stay in Whitehaven over Sunday. But my 
 inquietude was of short continuance. A few mi- 
 nutes after, a vehicle, precisely similar to the 
 Irish jingle, drove to the door ; and on going to the 
 window from the impulse of curiosity, wondering 
 how these singular machines should have found their 
 way into England, I ascertained, with surprise and 
 pleasure, that it was an accommodation convejance, 
 which was stopping to take in passengers for Cocer- 
 mouth, a small town, somewhat more than half way 
 to Keswick. — All this, by the by, though a stated 
 daily arrangement, the good landlord, for very obvi- 
 ous reasons, had taken care not to apprise me of 
 himself. — Finding one unoccupied seat, I immediate- 
 ly threw my valise into the vehicle, and the next in- 
 stant it drove off. Of the other three passengers, 
 one was a native of Keswick, and just landed from 
 the Isle of Man ; — a very intelligent and pleasant 
 companion. He was familiar with the road, and 
 being rather more communicative than Englishmen 
 generally are, gave me muchfinformation of places 
 and things as we drove along. 
 
 The road, for the first three or four miles, fol- 
 lowed pretty closely the coast ; but afterwards, 
 diverged into the interior of the country. The 
 face of this was hilly and waving but by no means 
 mountainous. We passed a few villages, the houses 
 of which, exhibited a neat appearance. Nume- 
 rous farm-houses and cottages also, were scattered 
 in every direction, and in front of most of them 
 
 13 * 
 
150 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 might be seen little lawns, or gardens, or shrub- 
 beries. The women whom we passed were all neat, 
 and those that were young, bonnie and blooming, 
 — materially improv^ed in this respect contrasted with 
 the Irish. 
 
 After a ride of eight miles, we came in view of 
 the Derwentwater, — a coy little stream, — rolling 
 its amber waters over a bed of pebbles, and mean- 
 dering through a succession of richly enamelled 
 meads. It accompanied us during the remainder of 
 the way, and amused me much by its playfulness and 
 prattling. One mile further I caught the first 
 glimpse of Skiddaw. It is not, as 1 conceived, a 
 single mountain rising in a lofty cone, but a broken, 
 towering chain of highlands. Loose, lazy clouds 
 were floating around their summits, alternately veil- 
 ing, and disclosing them to view. As we proceed- 
 ed, the scenery rose in character, assuming at every 
 step, a more composed and statelier air, and after a 
 delightful ride of fourteen miles, which gave ample 
 presage of higher satisfactions in prospect, I was 
 set down at the door of a pubUc house which pro- 
 mised all the accommodations which a fatigued tra- 
 veller might wish. 
 
 KESWICK, ' ROYAL OAK,' MAY 4tH. 
 
 What those accommodations were, — in other 
 words, what is meant in general by the boasted con- 
 veniences of an English inn, — those only can well 
 understand, who have actually experienced them. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 15t 
 
 The house in which I lodged last night, was no ways 
 remarkably good ; indeed, comparatively indiiferent, 
 yet it fully redeemed the promise which I have said 
 it made on my alighting. To any one of equally 
 plain habits and tastes with myself, it might be 
 enough to refer, as some evidence of this, to the sup- 
 per table, which ' rose like an exhalation' before me 
 within ten minutes after my arrival, — being spread 
 with the finest trout from the Derwent, the best 
 Cumberland mutton, sparkling Ulverstone ale, and 
 port of excellent body and racy flavour. But after 
 all, perhaps the greatest recommendation of an En- 
 glish inn, is the excellence of its beds ; — these are 
 luxurious indeed, and last night I occupied one 
 which Juno might have envied, with all the roses 
 and -myrtles of Ida or Olympus for her couch. But 
 this, en passant. 
 
 Early in the morning, I walked out to survey the 
 town of Cocermouth. It is situated on the Derwent ; is 
 irregularly built, and very old in appearance. The 
 immense ruins of a once noble castle, grey with 
 moss, and finely clothed with ivy, crown an eminence 
 which adjoins the town, and overhangs the river. 
 The pile, now the property of Lord Egremont, 
 was once baronial, and a place of great strength : 
 erected as a defence against the predatory border 
 inroads of the Scotch. 
 
 At the hour of divine service I went to church ; 
 it was well attended ; and the exercises throughout, 
 were conducted with great solemnity and decorum. 
 
1^2 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 The sermon was delivered by a young man, and 
 possessed much merit. It was chaste and nervous 
 in style, replete with excellent sentiments, and de- 
 livered with judicious action, and a modest, manly 
 tone of voice. The church is very antique, and 
 presents a number of curious old monuments, which 
 are ranged around the interior of its walls. 
 
 Being anxious to contmue my route northward 
 with as little delay as possible, early in the after- 
 noon I mounted a horse, and in company with the 
 gentleman who was my feilow passenger from 
 Whitehaven yesterday, proceeded towards this place. 
 A ride of such varied beauty and grandeur for an 
 equal distance I never before enjoyed. The road 
 on leaving C. soon entered the mountains ; and 
 continued either winding along their feet, or climb- 
 ing and skirting their acclivities, the residue of the 
 way. Proceeding two or three miles, we descended 
 into the beautiful vale of Lorton. It is an extensive 
 and well cultivated tract, enclosed on all sides by 
 high and steep mountains. The pretty village of 
 Lorton, with its venerable church, stands in the cen- 
 tre ; and at the extremities of the valley, are two 
 or three neat hamlets. Near the latter, were seve- 
 ral very flourishing plantations of larches. As we 
 rode along, I noticed the sycamore, (New-England 
 balm of Gilead,) the willow, (called in this neigh- 
 bourhood, the palm,) and the pear-tree, in full leaf. 
 The hedges of hawthorn and privet displayed also 
 a luxuriant foliage. Over them the wild honey- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 153 
 
 suckle was creeping : and on the green turf beneath, 
 the daisy, violet, and primrose smiled in full bioom. 
 
 Passing from the vale of Lorton, we penetrated 
 hills of a sterner grandeur than those which we had 
 left. For a considerable distance not a single enclo- 
 sure appeared, and scarcely a defile fit for cultiva- 
 tion, except where some mountain brook dashed 
 from the precipice, and furrowed an opening amidst 
 the opposing crags. These streams were frequent ; 
 and from their channels it is evident, are always 
 much swollen by spring and autumnal rains. The 
 hills presented every species of bold and massive 
 forms. The clouds as they floated heavily by, cast 
 their long dark shadovv s upon them ; and these often 
 produced a tine effect by falling at the feet of one of 
 the highest, and ascending by a slow solemn motion 
 to its very summit. 
 
 Presently, the harsh features of the landscape 
 immediately around us, began to soften into a milder 
 expression. The russet tints of the little vegeta- 
 tion, which had remained gradually disappeared : — 
 glades of verdant grass disputed the soil with the 
 heath, and whin, — which extending their surface, at 
 length stretched into rich pastures on which flocks 
 of sheep were feeding, enlivening the scene with 
 their gambols, and regaling the ear with their beils. 
 
 The shepherds whom 1 saw, were generally attend- 
 ed with a pair of dogs of a remarkably strong and 
 active breed, and distinguished for their wonderful 
 sagacity. Several striking proofs of the latter quali- 
 
154 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 ty, I accidentally witnessed ; and judging from these 
 and other indications, 1 could not help thinking that 
 these humble animals would hardly have suffered in 
 the comparison of their instinct, with the reason of 
 the masters whom they served. 
 
 The right of pasturing sheep upon the uninclosed 
 tracts along the hill sides in this neighbourhood, 
 belongs equally to all freeholders in the adjoining 
 parishes. It is given to them when they receive 
 leases of their lands. 
 
 On the ride, I occasionally noticed a raven, after 
 sailing round the peaks of the mountains, poising for 
 a time over a certain spot ; and my companion told 
 me, that it was watching to seize and prey upon some 
 young lamb. These birds, he represented as ex- 
 ceedingly voracious and bold. 
 
 1 he country at length opened somewhat, and dis- 
 closed more perfectly the bold outlme of Skiddaw ; 
 near the base of which, our road conducted us. Be- 
 yond and directly in front, arose majestically the 
 towering heights of Helvellyn ; and further to the 
 right, the lofty undulating ridge of the Borrowdale 
 mountains. Besides these,, numerous other steep 
 hills and fells appeared in every direction, all form- 
 ing one vast amphitheatre, which enclosed within 
 its magnificent amplitude, the matchless vale of Kes- 
 wick. 
 
 But before dwelling upon the beauties of this ely- 
 sium, I must return to the point, where the whole 
 valley, to most of which Keswick gives name, open- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 1^5 
 
 ed first on the view. My companion, 1 would here 
 remark, with genuine native enthusiasm, had pre- 
 viously assured me that I should find the scene, 
 which would be there unfolded, the most beautiful 
 which I had ever witnessed ; and in that he was not 
 mistaken. 
 
 Turning a sudden angle in the road, I first discern- 
 ed the little lake of Bassenthwaite, reposing beneath 
 Skiddaw, and reflecting from its placid bosom, the 
 purple shadows of that stupendous mountain. Skid- 
 dawdale next appeared ; e^ pretty extent of meads 
 which spread themselves along its borders, and for 
 some distance into the valley. A rivulet was seen 
 issuing from the Bassenthwaite and hurrying through 
 the dale, as if eager to bear its crystal tribute to the 
 Derwent lake near Keswick. It was a modest 
 stream, and seemed to shrink from observation, oc- 
 casionally concealing entirely its waters among the 
 windings which it pursued. But 
 
 The matted grass ******* with livelier green 
 Betrayed the secret of its silent course. 
 
 The valley of K. encircled by the mountains, I 
 have already named commences with this lake 
 of Bassenthwaite and the adjacent meads. Thence, 
 it extends six or eight miles ; and embraces a beauti- 
 fully varied landscape, in the centre of which stands 
 the town of Keswick, not far from the lake of 
 that name ; called also indifferently, the lake of 
 Derwent. It terminates with the romantic hamlet 
 
156 E-XCURSIO]N~ FIXOM 
 
 of Grange, at the mouth of the wild pass which 
 opens into the crags of Borrowdale. The whole of 
 this valley is decked with the richest cultivation ; 
 and even at this early season, it presents some of the 
 softest and loveliest tints, which I ever saw spread 
 over the face of nature. Its beauty is strikingly 
 heightened by the savage grandeur of the surround- 
 ing mountains. Indeed, they each add powerfully 
 by contrast to the effect of the other. 
 
 The valley is populous. Several villages are 
 scattered over it ; each distinguished by the grey 
 tower of its church ; while around, in every direc- 
 tion, may be seen white cottages, and farm-houses, 
 and country seats, some of them indeed, partly im- 
 bosomed among trees or screened by creeping 
 shrubs ; but all serving to vary the expression, and 
 heighten the romantic beauty of the landscape. 
 
 Keswick lake is an irregular sheet of water, about 
 three miles in length. Its clearly defined border, 
 is prettily edged with trees ; and several islands 
 which dot its surface, are also well wooded. The 
 appearance of these islands is highly picturesque ; 
 and they are happily disposed for the effect of per- 
 spective. On one of them, a little country-box has 
 lately been erected. Its attic, just peeping from a 
 hood of larches, is all however which is presented 
 to the eye. 
 
 It was after five, P. M. when we reached Kes- 
 wick. Having dined, I rambled out and took a bird's- 
 eye survey of the town and environs. I soon found 
 
EDINBURGfl TO DUBLIN. 157 
 
 myself upon the beach of the lake ; and lingered 
 among the enchanting beauties of the scene, till twi- 
 light veiled them from my view. 
 
 May 5. — Rising betimes, I bent my steps towards 
 the pass of Borrowdale. It was the ' hour of prime,' 
 and truly, 
 
 — fioS'iS'cucrvXoi m; — 
 
 a ' rosy fingered morn.' The sun indeed was hardfy 
 risen, but the dappled east gave presage of his near 
 approach. The air breathed a balmy fragrance ; — 
 not a ripple played upon the surface of the lake ; — 
 all around was peaceful and motionless. 
 
 Leaving the town of Keswick, I entered upon a 
 path which followed closely the margin of the Der- 
 went, — keeping it on the right. Skiddaw was behind, 
 — his summit grey with the morning mists ; — Helvel- 
 lyn further off on the left rose towering in his 
 pride ; — like a giant, overtopping the vassal heights 
 which encircled him. 
 
 A walk of a mile or two brought me to a thick 
 wood, which presented a luxuriant, native growth of 
 oak, beech, ash, birch, poplar and elder. These 
 trees abound in the neighbourhood of the lake ; — 
 indeed, throughout the vally of K. there is much of 
 woodland, and some of it in the finest order. — Se- 
 veral beautiful rills, spanned by rustic little bridges, 
 crossed my path. The noise of their waterfalls, 
 breaking upon the ear, relieved the stillness of 
 morning. But soon the warbling of the sky-lark 
 was heard, a prelude to a general concert which 
 burst from every hedge and thicket and wood. 
 14 
 
m EXCURSION FROM 
 
 The road at length conducted to a champaigii 
 tract, which was spread at the feet of a steep emi- 
 nence on the left ; the latter rather barren as well 
 as rugged. A shepherd — or I should say, his busier 
 dog, — was leading a small flock to the hill side to 
 clip the little herbage which it yielded. As I con- 
 tinued my walk, the valley narrowed, though what 
 remained of it was still lovely. The hill on the other 
 hand, under which I was passing, assumed a sterner 
 aspect ; and gradually changed to a perpendicular 
 ridge of cliffs, forming a solid wall of many hundred 
 feet in height. Large masses of rocks which had 
 been dislodged in conflicts of the elements, and 
 tumbled from a fearful elevation, were strown along 
 the way-side; and in some places they almost entirely 
 blocked the passage. Further on, the Fall of Low- 
 dore presented itself. There was little about it, to 
 attract attention. The stream being low, all that it 
 exhibited was a narrow strip of foam sliding down a 
 rocky declivity, of an hundred and fifty feet or more, 
 and falling with a gentle murmur upon a bed of 
 smoothly chafed pebbles. From the breadth of the 
 channel however, it is obvious, that the body of wa- 
 ter must be greatly increased in seasons of freshes. 
 At such times the aspect of things is doubtless mate- 
 rially changed ; — and the Fall of Lowdore, now so 
 gentle and pretty, it then transformed into a wild 
 and terrible cataract. 
 
 Approaching the entrance into Borrowdale, I paus- 
 ed to admire the little hamlet of Grange. A scene 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 15d 
 
 SO perfectly picturesque, considering all its accom- 
 paniments, I think I never beheld. The cots were 
 clustered on the margin of a softly flowing current 
 whose waters were clear to transparency. A group 
 of aged pines threw their dark shadows over them ; 
 •—a few yards distant, an old bridge partly dilapidat- 
 ed, but which aided admirably the effect of the land- 
 scape, connected the opposite banks of the little 
 river; around the hamlet were several neatly trim- 
 med gardens ; — and far down the valley extended a 
 succession of rich pastures and fertile meads, where- 
 on herds of cattle were straying, and the peasantry 
 actively plying their morning labours. The whole 
 scene was in harmony : — its features were happily 
 blended ; and over the whole there was an air of 
 Claude-like softness which was inexpressibly lovely. 
 Nothing however could be more striking than the 
 contrast which this scene bore to the savage aspect 
 of the mountain glens within which I was entering. 
 The beautiful and the picturesque soon vanished ; 
 and 1 found myself enclosed within a defile hemmed 
 on all sides by lofty, precipitous crags, or hills 
 scarcely less rugged and bleak. So sudden and en- 
 tire was the change that the whole seemed the ef- 
 fect of magic. The impression moreover made by 
 the objects a little before witnessed remaining fresh 
 and vivid, and the path which I was pursuing, con- 
 tinuing to wind among fells and passes, the features 
 of which at every step became wilder, — 1 could not 
 help looking back in recollection upon the dale 
 
J6<> EXCURSION FROM 
 
 of Grange, with some such feelings as Mirzah 
 must have gazed upon the happy abodes of the 
 blest. — The comparison indeed failed most in the 
 objects which immediately surrounded me ; for if 
 the mountains of Bagdad are as sterile as those of 
 Borrowdale, that, forsooth, must have been a moody 
 fancy which induced a contemplatist to select them 
 as the scene of devotional meditations. 
 
 The Fells of Borrowdale are singularly precipi- 
 tous and abrupt. They crowd too so much upon one 
 another that the defiles which separate them are 
 very narrow, and greatly obstructed with the rocky 
 fragments which often fall from the neighbouring 
 acclivities. The mountains being chiefly composed 
 of slate, at least in their external structure, splinters 
 and indeed heavy masses are easily disintegrated ; 
 and the ravages committed in their descent are 
 sometimes very terrible. 
 
 Their summits and sides are mostly bare, and 
 exhibit only here and there a tinge of green : — a 
 few blades of grass perhaps, or a patch of stinted 
 heath. — The birch however, as usual, persists in as- 
 serting his claim to the scanty soil which is left : — and 
 it was curious to see a fearless little sapling, among 
 some of the topmost crags, where only the eagle 
 would build her aerie — thrusting its slender branches 
 through the yawning clefts, and waving sportingly in 
 the wind. 
 
 With difficulty I clambered an eminence, near an 
 high steep called Castle crag, and sheltering myself 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 16i 
 
 from the wind under a ledge of rocks, contemplated 
 for some time the scene around ; and the impressions 
 which it has left upon my mind can never be erased. 
 The clouds which had previously lowered seemed 
 to assume an angrier cast, and threw a peculiar 
 gloom over every object. The wind swept through 
 the crags in hoarse sullen murmurs ; — above, an ea- 
 gle was sailing round a cliff, and occasionally pierc- 
 ing the air with its cry ; — near me a mountain stream 
 dashed from the rocks, and rushed furiously into a ra- 
 vine beneath ; — not the slightest trace of a hu- 
 man habitation, nor in fact, of a human foot-step, 
 (excepting along the half-beaten tract by which I had 
 entered the pass,) appeared, on any side ; — even the 
 sheep which had been seen browsing on Skiddaw, 
 and near the feet of Helvellyn, had deserted this 
 frightful waste, and the whole seemed condemned to 
 sterility, and designed as the very seat of desola- 
 tion. The scene was one on which the genius of 
 Salvator might have loved to riot, — but for myself, 
 were it possible, I should prefer to contemplate it 
 when transferred to the canvass, than again behold it 
 in its native wildness and deformity. — In fact, my feel- 
 ings were never so powerfully affected by any scene 
 before ; and I can truly say that all my imagination 
 had ever depicted of the sublime in natural objects 
 fell short of what I now saw and/e/t. What impres- 
 sion indeed, an alpine scene would excite, as yet I 
 know not ; but that scene must be awfully grand 
 which can swyass in effect the solemn wildness 
 
 14* 
 
162 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 which reigns over this pass and the surrounding fells 
 of Borrovvdale.* 
 
 * The little which I have since viewed has not induced me to 
 substract a single iota from the above description, and that given 
 in a former page, of the impressions naturally produced by a 
 view of the mountain scenery of Keswick, and its environs. It 
 possesses a character perfectly distinctive and ' sui generis ;' 
 and although differing in expression is nowise inferior in effect 
 to many of the stronger features of the alpine landscape. — 
 There is such a thing as having too much of mountain ; and I 
 refer to any traveller who has visited the Vale of Chamounifor 
 the truth of this remark. As seen from there, Mont Blanc and 
 his imperial brotherhood appear inordinately and disproportiona- 
 fely huge ; — and the reason obviously is, that while they are thus 
 immensely enlarged, the other objects in their neighbourhood 
 retain their natural dimensions, and consequently exhibit a con- 
 trast which borders not a little on the ludicrous. — The river Arve 
 though respectable enough in itself, seems nothing more than a 
 paltry brook : — the tall firs which wave upon the acclivities of the 
 mountains dwindle into insignificant shrubs ; — the valley of 
 Chamouni narrows into a Scottish glen : — and the town in the 
 centre, a short distance off, has the appearance of a group of 
 martin boxes. 
 
 But, in remarking in general upon the disappointing effect of 
 Alpine scenery, I wish to be understood as excepting the vale and 
 neighbourhood of Geneva. No view on earth perhaps, can rival 
 the combined beauty and grandeur of the latter, as displayed 
 from Mont St. Claude on the Jura ; — and this precisely for the 
 reason that every object properly harmonises for the effect of the 
 whole perspective. I never can forget the impression produced 
 upon me, when from that summat, the valley with its stupendous 
 girdle of mountains was first descried. Just then the declining 
 sun was gilding tlie distant glaciers of the Alps. Mont Blanc and 
 Mont Rosa were sufficiently removed to bear a due proportion to 
 the surrounding object?. The nearer Alps matched perfectly 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 163 
 
 Descending the hill, I prepared to retrace my 
 steps, — satisfied with what I had seen of Borrow- 
 dale's mountains and defiles. A second view of the 
 dale and hamlet of Grange confirmed the impres- 
 sions which its beauty had before excited. Near 
 the edge of it I passed a peasant cutting peats ; — a 
 fuel however which he said is little used by the vil- 
 lagers or any of the neighbouring inhabitants. Coals 
 and wood are chiefly burnt; — and are preferred 
 both for cheapness and usefulness. 
 
 Near the town of Keswick, I was met by a buxom 
 damsel who, with a face tinged with a bloom which 
 Hebe might have envied, came bounding along, 
 skipping a slack rope, and showing more of her legs 
 in the exercise than comported with the most femi- 
 nine modesty : — her hose I would have said, but this 
 would have been a licence of speech on a par with 
 a Highlander's knee-buckle. She paused on my pas- 
 sing, and dropt her head to conceal, as I thought, a 
 blush ; — but, in this I was doubtless mistaken, for a 
 moment after, she commenced again with an agihty 
 which would have done honour to Harlequin. 
 
 ^vith the valley beneath ; which latter throughout its extent was 
 embellished with tints of the richest magnificence ; whilst the 
 lake, stretching to an immense distance, till lost in the mountains 
 of the Vallais and the Pays de Vaud, resembled, at the height! 
 viewed it, a broad majestic river. — Ovid's — 
 
 Speluncae, vivique lacus, et Tempe amocna, — 
 would have expressed well a part of the scene; but better, tf 
 
 coupled with, 
 
 Nubiferi Monies, et saxa rainantia coelo. 
 
164 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 The public clock was striking eleven as I entere d 
 Keswick. The many satisfactions which I had ex- 
 perienced on my ramble rendered me in some de- 
 gree insensible to its length and fatigue ; but on the 
 • whole I was nowise unwilling to take up for a while 
 with other enjoyments, and suspend the gratification 
 of gazing upon valleys and rocks and mountains for 
 the substantial comforts and refreshing shelter of the 
 ^ Royal Oak.' 
 
 I had resolved yesterday upon ascending Helvel* 
 lyn to-day should I have ascertained the attempt to 
 be practicable ; — but it is represented as attended 
 with so much danger and labour, particularly at this 
 season of the year, that I have abandoned the 
 thought entirely. The chief difficulty is in the 
 heavy clouds, which often suddenly come over its 
 summit, rendering a safe return almost impossible. 
 A year or two ago, a strong experienced young 
 man, well acquainted with the mountain, attempted 
 a journey over it, and being overtaken in this man- 
 ner, was unable to find his way down and perished. 
 The justice of these representations I saw signally 
 exemplified, on leaving the pass of Borrowdale. 
 Thick mists suddenly rolled over the heights which 
 I had just left, and in a few minutes completely con- 
 cealed their summits. What enhances the danger 
 in such an extremity is the number of precipices 
 which occur at irregular intervals, down which a 
 person is liable to fall, without being apprised a mo- 
 ment before of his danger. 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 165 
 
 To one contemplating the effect at a distance, 
 there is something strikingly grand in the appea- 
 rance which these clouds exhibit when investing the 
 mountain tops. The face of the heavens has been 
 seldom free from them during any part of the 
 day ; — and in returning from my morning's walk, I 
 often lingered to behold them sweeping majestical- 
 ly along, and throwing their loose aerial drapery 
 over the summits of the surrounding mountains. 
 
 But Keswick, as is well known boasts other at- 
 tractions than the charms of its landscape. It is dis- 
 tinguished by being the residence of Mr. S. the poet 
 laureat ; and a fitter place for wooing the ' coy 
 muse,' he could not have selected. Her favourite 
 Helicon did not offer a better. — This gentleman is 
 chief of a trio who constitute what is termed the 
 Lake school of Poetry : — their different but equally 
 eccentric tastes, and brilhant powers of mind hav- 
 ing introduced and given celebrity to, an order of 
 composition of a peculiar and novel character. I 
 had anticipated the satisfaction of a personal inter- 
 view with Mr S. ; but on arriving in Keswick, was 
 disappointed in learning that he was absent in Lon- 
 don on the famous ' Wat Tyler' affair. 
 
 PENRITH, 10 p. M, 
 
 At one o'clock in company with a Swedish tra- 
 veller, I left Keswick for this place distant eighteen 
 miles. Two miles from the former on the summit 
 of a hill near the road, we stopped to examine a 
 Druidical remam. It is of an oval form ; the great' 
 
166 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 est diameter being about 150 feet in length. The 
 stones which compose the figure are chiefly stand- 
 ing ; they are ranged at some distance apart, and 
 are about six feet above the ground. It is probable, 
 however, that they have sunk considerably, owing 
 to their weight, and the long period in which they 
 have remained in their present position. In the 
 centre of the circle is a clump of small larches ; and 
 on one side is a massive flat stone, which an anti- 
 quary would doubtless have pointed out as the old 
 altar. Instead, however, of the ferocious priests 
 who once celebrated thereon the rites of their hor- 
 rid superstition, and fattened the soil around with 
 the blood of human victims, the only living crea- 
 tures which we saw, on entering the area, were a 
 few sheep, that were fieeding peaceably upon the 
 green sward. 
 
 Pursuing our route we often looked back upon 
 the retiring vale of Keswick. Distance, as it soft- 
 ened, seemed to add new loveliness to its features. 
 The rich meads of Newdale and St. Johnsdale, 
 which next appeared,- — watered by the hmpid Greta, 
 pleased us very much. Saddleback, a huge mis- 
 hapen lump of a mountain, soon came in sight. 
 Though possessing little beauty in its general as- 
 pect, in point of magnitude it jields to none of the 
 English mountains, with the exception of Helvellyn. 
 Our road conducted us along its base. Near 
 Threlkeld, we noticed the effects of the bursting 
 of a surcharged thunder-cloud : — the water having 
 committed frightful ravages in its descent into the 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 167 
 
 valley. Approaching Penrith we traversed some 
 extensive downs ; covered, as usual, by fine flocks 
 of sheep. Saddleback, as we receded from it, 
 looked bolder than on a first view. Its top is nak* 
 ed, a circumstance which rather adds to its gran- 
 deur, instead of diminishing it. It shows more dis- 
 tinctly its outline ; and in one or two points of 
 view discloses with tolerably good effect the stu- 
 pendous masses of rocks which crown its summit. 
 
 Near the town of Penrith are the extensive ruins 
 of a castle. It is constructed of red free stone, 
 which, a short distance off, resembles brick. Its 
 appearance, of course, is very indifferent ; and it 
 is destitute moreover of ivy, moss and other usual 
 mourning habiliments of English Castle ruins. — To 
 an American, the frequency of these ruins is truly 
 astonishing. England especially abounds with them ; 
 and wherever the traveller goes, he is sure to 
 meet with them. Sometimes, and particularly in 
 certain stages of decay, they greatly embellish the 
 landscape. Abbey ruins also, are occasionally seen ; 
 and they form a feature entirely distinct, but equal- 
 ly picturesque with the former. An American, 
 however, whatever satisfaction there may be to the 
 eye, in surveying these objects, has little reason to 
 regret the want of them in his own country. They 
 are all the mournful monuments of the mutations of 
 human prosperity ; — and many of them to an English- 
 man, are standing remembrancers of events which he 
 would gladly consign to oblivion. — The finest of these 
 
168 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 ruins, whether castle or abbey, which the tourist 
 meets with in his rambles through this country, he 
 owes to the violence of the two most tyrannic ru- 
 lers, who ever governed England ; — the former to 
 the cannon of Cromwell, and the latter to the rapa- 
 city of Henry 8th. 
 
 Penrith is rather a mean-looking town. The 
 red freestone of which its houses are built, gives 
 it a dingy and disagreeable appearance ; although 
 it answers better for houses than for castles. It is 
 an ancient town, and was formerly claimed and 
 held by the Scots. The English however, at 
 length succeeded, not only in disputing their title 
 to it, but in removing their border thirty miles fur- 
 ther north. 
 
 The river Emont flows a short distance from the 
 town. While dinner was preparing I walked to it, 
 and visited also the frontier village of Westmore- 
 land ; — the river forming the boundary line here 
 between the counties of Cumberland and W. On 
 the north bank of the Emont are two spacious caves, 
 of narrow and difficult entrance, dug from the solid 
 rock, — which it is supposed were intended as places of 
 safety during the incursions of the Scots. However 
 this may be, the latter also have found it convenient 
 to avail themselves of similar precautions in times of 
 English invasions. Not long since, visiting the do- 
 main of Roslin, I explored three caverns which have 
 been excavated with incredible labour, from a rock 
 which overhangs the north Esk, about a mile distant 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 16» 
 
 from the castle. The largest is ninety feet long, 
 and communicates with the other caves ; the outer 
 entrance being from the face of the rock towards 
 the river by a ladder which was drawn up and let 
 down at pleasure. Those caverns, it is reported, 
 have often afforded shelter to the family and weaker 
 tenantry of Roslin. — Happy it is for the cause of 
 humanity, as well as for the interests of the two 
 kingdoms, that neither these, nor other mutual de- 
 fences are requisite for the security of their respec- 
 tive inhabitants ; — that one common throb of nation- 
 al feeling beats responsive in every bosom ; — and 
 that the stranger now searches uncertainly for the 
 border line, which formerly was traced in blood from 
 Berwick bay to the Frith of Solway. 
 
 HAWICK, MAY, 6tH. 
 
 Adjoining Penrith, is an high hill which com- ' 
 mands an excellent view of the country, for a 
 wide circuit. The morning proving uncommonly 
 clear, I was induced at an early hour to ascend it, 
 and was amply repaid for the exertion. The hill 
 stands within a park, or rather, chase, belonging to 
 the Earl of Lonsdale. Formerly, it served as a 
 look-out, and was a very important station for that 
 purpose. On its summit is a watch-tower in almost 
 entire preservation. It is constructed with immense- 
 ly thick walls, through which are a few loopholes, 
 the only inlets of light, excepting at the door -en- 
 trance. I noticed on one of the stones the date of 
 
 15 
 
170 EXCl/RSION FROM 
 
 1719 ; — but its actual erection was probably at a 
 much earlier period. Similar towers are found at 
 intervals along the whole extent of the Scotch and 
 English marches. 
 
 The view from the height embraced no less than 
 seven counties ; and on every side was terminated 
 by a noble perspective of distant mountains. Cum- 
 berland and Westmoreland, with their fertile and 
 picturesque tracts, were spread beneath ; — beyond, 
 extended Lancaster and a part of Yorkshire ; — in the 
 east appeared the blue heights of Northumberland 
 and Durham ; and far in the north, the Cheviot 
 Hills of Scotland. The latter I hailed with peculiar 
 satisfaction ; for they seem to be my own ; — and to 
 Caledonia I turned with something at least of the 
 affection of a step-son. 
 
 Among the nearer objects in the landscape it gave 
 me pleasure to distinguish Ulswater ; — which next 
 to Keswick, is reputed to be the prettiest of all the 
 pretty lakes in this romantic region. I had looked for 
 it last evening, but was prevented from discerning 
 it, by a mist which hung over its surface. It was 
 now plainly perceptible throughout its extent ; — its 
 ' deep line,' including ' promontory, creek and bay,' 
 being marked with singular precision ; and its 
 waters, under the radiance of the morning sun, pre- 
 senting ' one burnished sheet of living gold.' 
 
 At eight o'clock, 1 left Penrith in the stage coach 
 for Hawick, a journey of sixty miles. Between P. 
 and Carlisle the country presented few objects of 
 attention. In general, its face was diversified with 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 171 
 
 rich, long swells, mostly well cultivated. A few 
 patches of woodland appeared, and our road lay 
 through Inglewood Forest, so called : a tract, how- 
 ever, which little deserves the appellation. I was 
 rather pleased than otherwise with the first view 
 of Carlisle. Several large public buildings, which 
 have recently been erected, contribute to mod- 
 ernise somewhat its appearance : but still it looks 
 very old, as it is. Formerly, it was strongly fortified ; 
 —but its walls, excepting on one side, are in a state 
 of decay. The portion which remains is used by 
 the proprietors of the neighbouring soil as a garden 
 wall; and the fruit trees which they have trained 
 against it, thrive uncommonly well. The castle also 
 which anciently was a fortress of great strength, is at 
 present going fast to ruin. Only a part of it is kept 
 in tolerable repair, and that for the accommodation 
 of a few soldiers who are appointed to garrison it. 
 
 As the coach was delayed an hour at Carlisle, I 
 employed the interval in visiting this castle ; — and a 
 more venerable and imposing pile is hardly to be 
 met with in Great Britian. It forms one great quad- 
 rangle, the outer circuit of its walls being not less 
 than half a mile. The inclosed area is now covered 
 with a turf of the liveliest verdure ; — so fresh and 
 smooth that no bowling green in England can surpass 
 it in beauty. The matted ivy is seen creeping over 
 its wall in the wildest luxuriance, as if to conceal the 
 ravages which time and the tempest are continually 
 augmenting ; and along its ramparts the rank grast 
 grows profusely, interspersed with numberless wall- 
 
172 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 flowers, which are now in perfection and exhale the 
 choicest fragrance. The castle, with a citadel which 
 was recently standing, was built by William Rufus ; 
 and during the repairs which it has undergone at 
 successive periods since, the original plan of its con- 
 struction has in most respects been adhered to. — Of 
 the many transactions which mark its long and event- 
 ful history, one of the most painful and interesting, is 
 the confinement within its walls, of the unhappy 
 Mary, Queen of Scots. I looked into the apartments 
 which she occupied. They are in a round tower, 
 which, though partly dilapidated, has not suffered so 
 much as other portions of the castle. Some lumber 
 and a few pieces of rude furniture are ranged around 
 them ; and the walls and floor are thickly covered 
 with cobwebs and dust. From the battlements of 
 the tower a view is obtained of the hills of Dumfrie- 
 shire in Scotland ; — objects the sight of which must 
 have administered little comfort to the captive, ill 
 fated Queen. The ancient keep of the castle re- 
 mains, and a well of great depth is also shown, the 
 work, as it is supposed, of the Romans. 
 
 Returning from the castle I visited the cathedral, a 
 venerable structure, partly of Saracenic and partly of 
 Gothic architecture. On the screens in the aisles, I no- 
 ticed some singular and amusing legendary paintings of 
 St. Augustine and St. Anthony, with a doggerel distich 
 attached to each. Turning from these, I sought the 
 tomb of Paley ; but I sought it in vain among the 
 ' storied urns and animated busts,' which were rang- 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 173 
 
 ed ostentatiously along the aisles and transepts of the 
 cathedral. ' But is there no monument to Paley?' 
 inquired I, of the verger who attended me. — 'His 
 ashes are under you,' he repHed, and in truth they 
 were. Stepping aside I traced on a plain grey slab 
 in the pavement on which 1 had been standing, this 
 simple inscription ; — ' Here lie interred the remains 
 of Wm. Paley, D. D., who died May 25th, 1805, 
 aged 62 years. '-—This imperfect memorial is all that 
 marks the spot, which is consecrated by the mortal 
 remains of one of the purest Christians, and soundest 
 philosophers of his age and country. His works 
 however survive him ; — and they will abide an im- 
 perishable record of his worth j — 
 
 monumentum, 
 
 Quod non imber edax, non Aquilo impotens 
 Possit diiuere, aut innunnerabilis 
 Annorum series, et fuga temporum. 
 
 A monument, which 
 
 Nor 3'-ears though numberless the train, 
 Nor flight of seasons, wasting rain. 
 Nor winds, that loud in tempest break, 
 Shall e'er its firm foundation shake. 
 
 Francis' Hor : 
 
 The famous Roman wall which was built from sea 
 to sea, passed within a quarter of a mile of Carlisle. 
 It is said that the city owes its name to this circum- 
 stance ; Carhsle being compounded of the Saxon 
 words caer lyell^ which mean a city near a wall. Re- 
 mains of this stupendous work are very perceptible 
 
 in the neighbourhood. 
 
 15* . 
 
174- EXCURSION FROM 
 
 Leaving' Carlisle, another stage brought us io 
 Longtown, a frontier town, where we stopped to 
 dine. Four miles further, we entered Scotland, at 
 a place called the Scots Dyke ; — leaving Gretna 
 Green, of hymeneal memory, at a little distance on 
 our left. The stage to Langholm was delightful; — 
 the road leading along the romantic windings of 
 Esk-daie, and crossing its pretty river some five or six 
 times in the course of as many miles. What added 
 to its interest, was the circumstance of its traversing 
 the scene of Lady Heron's song in Marmion. Ne- 
 therby Hall was passed, a little way to our 
 right : after which we entered on Canobie Lea 
 whereon was the ' racing and chasing,' when the 
 fair Ellen eloped with young lord Lochinvar. It 
 was impossible also to forget the renowned Johnny 
 Armstrong, in viewing spots rendered memorable 
 by his exploits ; — and approaching Langholm, 1 did 
 not fail to look out for Hallows Tower, formerly the 
 residence of this redoubtable hero. 
 
 Near Mosspaul, we crossed a ridge of land which 
 separates the waters that flow east and west. The 
 Esk had left us at Langholm ; but it sent on a little 
 branch which accompanied us a few miles and strug- 
 gled hard, though in vain, to hold out further. Its 
 loss however was not long perceived, — for soon ano- 
 ther rill was seen purlmg by the way side, and pur- 
 suing an opposite direction. This was the Teviot, 
 just in the commencement of its career. 1 had be- 
 held the stream only once before, and then at Kelso, 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 175 
 
 where it mingles its waters with the Tweed. Its 
 appearance there was very respectable ; — and con- 
 trasting it with its present infantile aspect, it would 
 have required a rare degree of physiognomical skill 
 to have traced any resemblance in its features, or 
 other marks of its identity. This stream gives name 
 to one of the most romantic dales in Scotland, and 
 after dispensing fertility and beauty throughout its 
 own course, and swelling not a little the waters of 
 the Tweed, at length enters the sea by an outlet, an 
 hundred miles distant from the mouth of the Esk. 
 
 Before reaching Hawick, we crossed the Teviot 
 two or three times. The last was by Branxholm 
 bridge ; — the road a little before having passed 
 within a few yards of Branxholm castle, or more 
 properly, house. This is the Branksome of Walter 
 Scott. Its situation he has well described ; being, 
 as he says, ' upon a steep bank, surrounded by the 
 Teviot, and flanked by a deep ravine, formed by a 
 precipitous brook.' In point of size, it must have 
 been greatly reduced since the days of Margaret of 
 Branksome ; and the various alterations which it has 
 undergone have left it little of the castellated form, 
 excepting one square, massive tower. It still, how- 
 ever, is a spacious structure, having much of com- 
 fort, though nothing of elegance in its appearance. 
 
 Opposite to Branxholm is a hill which the poet's 
 fancy has marvellously magnified into a mountain. 
 It is the same which he introduces as conferring 
 witli ' Teviot's tide,' in that whimsical colloquy be- 
 
176 EXCURSION FROM 
 
 tween the river and mountain spirits described in the 
 First Canto to the ' Lay.' 
 
 On the borders of the barony we beheld the con- 
 fluence of the Borthwick and Teviot waters. — 
 Leaving this, we passed Goldiland ruins ; — and a 
 ride of two miles more brought us, late in the even- 
 ing, to Hawick. 
 
 May 1th. — At an early hour, the coach was again 
 on the road. The morning light shewed imperfect- 
 ly, as we drove from Hawick, an artificial eminence 
 which Scott refers to, as 
 
 tjjg moathiirs mound 
 
 Where Druid forms once flitted round. 
 
 It is conjectured to be a remain of Celtic antiquity ; 
 and, if so, was probably a place of rendezvous for 
 general councils from the adjacent clans. Similar 
 heaps are not infrequent in north Britain. Ap- 
 proaching Selkirk, we crossed Philiphaugh, memo- 
 rable as the battle ground between the parliament 
 forces and those of king Charles, when the latter 
 under lord Dundee were routed after a short but 
 very bloody action. 
 
 A little beyond Selkirk, we came in sight of Et- 
 trick, another of those classic streams which are the 
 pride of the Lowlands. We next entered Tweed- 
 dale and drove for some miles along it, crossing the 
 river in two places. Of the streams which subse* 
 quently met us, were the Gala, Lugate and Heriot 
 
EDINBURGH TO DUBLIN. 177 
 
 Waters,* which contributed much to vary and beau- 
 tify the landscape. 
 
 Our road at length brought us to Half Law Kiln ; 
 — a place which the Romans are said to have occu- 
 pied, as a military station. Traces of a camp, I 
 was told^ are very visible : — but not having Monk- 
 barns at my side, nor his ' Essay of Castrametation' 
 in my hands, I was not so fortunate as to distinguish 
 them. Shortly, however, a more interesting ob- 
 ject appeared. This was Borthwick Castle, for- 
 merly a princely fabric, and venerable in decay. 
 Once, it was a place of shelter to injured royalty, 
 and opened its gates to Queen Mary after the battle 
 of Carberry Hill ; and once too, its walls imprison- 
 ed the same princess when Bothwell succeeded in 
 intercepting her on her route from Dumbarton. 
 
 From this place during the remaining twelve 
 miles of the journey, every object showed that we 
 were approaching the proud metropolis of the north. 
 — Cots and farm-houses, lodges and mansions, ham- 
 lets and villages crowded the landscape in every di- 
 rection. Passengers also on horse and foot, and 
 carriages of various descriptions, — post-chaises, gigs, 
 sociables, baro.uches, — began to throng the way. 
 Descending Dalkeith hill, we entered Mid Lothian, 
 the garden of Edinburgh ; and to me its fertile fields 
 
 * The Scotch apply the term Water, to express a second- 
 rate stream : a third-rate, they call Burn ; as Leith Water, Ban- 
 UQck Burn. 
 
178 EXCURSION TO DUBLIN. . 
 
 and green parks and lordly manors seemed arrayed 
 in new beauty. At length, Arthur's Seat was des- 
 cried towering above the ' Gude Town ;' and to the 
 left, appeared the grey ramparts of the castle. A 
 nearer approach discovered Nelson's column crown- 
 ing the summit of Calton : — St. Andrew's spire, and 
 the towers ol St. Giles and the Tron next peered 
 through the surrounding haze ; and last, though not 
 least, the turrets of Holyrood glanced on the eye as 
 the coach drove into a suburb of the city. Emerg- 
 ing from the Old Town, we entered on the magnifi- 
 cent bridge which connects it with the New, and 
 soon arrived in front of the Register office. Here I 
 alighted, and having found a porter, proceeded on 
 foot along Prince's street. A turn to the right 
 brought me further into the centre of the city ; and 
 after a minute's walk, I had the satisfaction of re-en- 
 tering my lodgings at the corner of north Hanover 
 and George Streets. 
 
WAa^ s® M®aTm®®m 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 
 
 One of the first objects which claim the attention of 
 the stranger in Edinburgh, is Holvrood-house. This 
 structure, renowned as it is in the annals of Scottish 
 story, I was not long in searching out after my arri- 
 val in the city, and often in an evening walk, have I 
 since found myself insensibly bending my way thi- 
 ther, when it was difficult to define the impulse 
 which prompted the direction of my steps. The 
 connection of the name of the unhappy Queen Mary, 
 with a few of the memorable events which its walls 
 have witnessed, has doubtless had no little influence 
 in deepening the interest with which I have contem- 
 plated this venerable pile ; but the emotions whxh 
 the sight of any monument of a remote and eventful 
 age, either awakens, or is at least calculated to 
 awaken, in the mind, are various in character, and 
 naturally impressive and solemn. 
 
 The main body, indeed, of Holyrood-house is not 
 very ancient. Its erection cannot be traced back to 
 an earlier date than the reign of Charles II. Origi- 
 nally, it was a far more spacious and princely fabric, 
 than at present it is ; but, what with the decays of 
 1« 
 
182 WALK TO HOLYROOD. 
 
 age, the fires of incendiaries, and the violences of in- 
 furiated mobs, it has suffered numerous changes in 
 the lapse of ages ; and though still a stately edifice, 
 is circumscribed very materially in extent compared 
 with its primitive limits. 
 
 At the northwest angle are double circular towers, 
 remaining in entire preservation, wherein are seve- 
 ral apartments and state-rooms which James V. 
 caused to be constructed, and which were occupied 
 as part of the royal habitation, both during his reign, 
 and that of his successor. His name is still to be 
 seen in a niche under one of the turrets ; and this 
 part of the building is all of it which has come down 
 from so remote a period to the present, uninjured. 
 
 The entrance is through an embattled gate-way, 
 which in its style displays some magnificence, and 
 communicates with a large area, two hundred and 
 thirty feet square, which is enclosed on each side 
 with the palace walls. A range of piazzas, 
 or more strictly a continued facade, supported by 
 Doric pillars, is built along the basement story which 
 affords a kind of cloistered walk quite round the in- 
 teriour of the pile. 
 
 I cannot easily forget the impressions made upoti 
 me, on my first visit to this lordly structure. As I 
 entered the gateway, leading to the inner court, I 
 passed a sentry, — a fine, manly fellow,— who was 
 dressed in the full costume of the highland military. 
 His tall bonnet and plume added much to his martial 
 air and aspect ; nor was the effect diminished hy the 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 183 
 
 Celtic accompaniments of tartan hose, a plaid kilt 
 and naked knee. Above him, on the front wall of 
 the portal, were carved the crown, thistle, and other 
 appendages of the arms of Scotland; under which 
 was emblazoned the proud motto, JVemo me impune 
 lacessit. 
 
 A janitor attended me to the quarters of an elderly, 
 splenetic lady, who undertook, though with an ill- 
 grace which the expected boon of a half-crown was 
 not sufficient to repress, to conduct me through those 
 apartments in the building which are most worthy of 
 inspection. 
 
 I was first taken to a large hall in which the Scot- 
 tish peers are wont to convene when they elect six- 
 teen from their number to represent their ' nobility' 
 in the British parliament. It is adorned with the 
 supposed portraits of all the kings of Scotland ; there 
 being more than an hundred heads m the whole, 
 most of which are fancy likenesses, or copies taken 
 from the imperfect and rude stamps of antique coins. 
 I took notice of a full-length portrait of Queen Mary, 
 and one of her father James V., — ' the knight of Snow- 
 don,' — each of which was originally well executed, 
 but the colours have faded, and the paintings have 
 otherwise been much injured. * 
 
 It was doubtless invidious, not to say uncourteous, 
 to mark the contrast, — which however was too pal- 
 pable to escape observation, — ^between the features 
 of the lovely Scottish princess, even amidst the 
 shading and disguise of a defaced and dusty portrait, 
 and the sallow countenance of my lady attendant, 
 
184 WALK TO HOLYROOD. 
 
 the expression of which seemed to assume new 
 odiousness when confronted before beauty of such 
 matchless grace. I know not what unlucky associa- 
 tion brought to mind at that moment Ovid's whimsi- 
 cal personification of Envy ; but as my eye glanced 
 on the sour aspect and wrinkled visage of the moody 
 dame by my side, who seemed to blench and wither 
 under the peerless charms of Mary, I could not resist 
 the temptation to apply to her with some slight 
 alteration the sententious lines, 
 
 Pallor in ore sedet ; macies in corpore toto ; 
 JN'usquam recta acies ; 
 
 intabescit que videndo 
 
 Formosam Mariam. 
 
 My conductress was hurrying me away to some of 
 the more modern apartments of the palace when I 
 intimated that further attentions would be excused, 
 provided I was shewn the rooms in the circular tow- 
 ers which were once occupied by the Queen. She 
 accordingly led the way to a flight of steps which 
 communicated with an antichamber on the second 
 floor, — the same into which Rizzio was dragged 
 when he received his final, mortal wounds. Some 
 dusky spots on the floor were pointed out, which 
 were said to be stains of his blood. — A few drops 
 of lamp-oil from time to time judiciously dropped 
 there, would produce a similar appearance, and 
 perhaps afford vouchers of the sanguinary deed 
 equally indisputable with the marks now discernible. 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 185 
 
 Leaving the anti-room, I entered a larger apart- 
 ment, or hall, hung round with tapestry much de- 
 faced. This was queen Mary's chamber of state. 
 From the walls were suspended a few portraits and 
 engravings, most of which were of very ordinary ex- 
 ecution. On one side stood a bed which formerly 
 might have had some claims to be reputed fine ,- 
 but it makes, at this day, a sorry appearance. There 
 were many chairs with richly embroidered seats, 
 ranged round the apartment, which also are going 
 fast to decay. One of these, which was of a costlier 
 construction than the others, and made somewhat in 
 the style of a modern loUing-chair, though conside- 
 rably wider, was said to be the chair on which the 
 reigning king and queen of Scotland used to sit side 
 by side on state occasions. Passing from this apart' 
 ment, I next entered the private chamber of Mary, 
 which was smaller than the former, and furnished in 
 an inferiour style. The bed was in a condition 
 scarcely better than the one first seen. It is of 
 tattered crimson damask, the hangings of which are 
 trimmed with a selvage of green fringes and tassels. 
 
 In a corner of the room, on a small table, was 
 placed the Queen's favourite work-box. It is made 
 of thin deal, covered on the top and sides with fine 
 cloth, which is ornamented with fancy needle-work. 
 This last was wrought by Mary when in France ; 
 and is curious as a specimen of her ingenuity. The 
 chief subject was Jacob's dream of the ladder, with 
 the descent of the angels upon it. Both the figure 
 
 16 * 
 
186 WALK TO HOLY ROOD. 
 
 and attitude of the sleeping patriarch were rather 
 comical ; but the whole performance was well 
 enough, considering that it was executed by a royal 
 Miss in her early teens,— and that too, in the middle 
 of the 16th century. 
 
 The box is divided into a number of compartments 
 which still retain some of the trinkets of the Queen. 
 It is lined within with crimson silk ; under which is 
 a stuffing of cotton. When the box was opened for 
 my inspection, a rich perfume exhaled from it, 
 which my fair conductress asserted in good faith, to 
 have been the reported fact, ever since it was in the 
 possession of the Queen ; — and that it originated from 
 some fragrant substance, deposited within the cotton 
 xmder the silk lining. 
 
 Opposite the entrance, on a circular side of the 
 chamber, are two doors ; of which the one 
 on the left conducted to her dressing-room, and 
 the other to a small cabinet answering to a French 
 boudoir, and which was appropriated by the 
 Queen as such. It was in this apartment that 
 she was supping with Rizzio, when Lord Darnley 
 with his associate assassins entered for the purpose 
 of taking the life of that favourite. The conspira- 
 tors ascended to the royal apartments by a back spi- 
 ral staircase, at the top of which was a door in the 
 wainscoat, concealed inside by tapestry, which open- 
 ed into the chamber within a ^e.w feet of the smaller 
 private room. In the latter, I saw the armour boots 
 and gloves of Darnley, which are of immoderate 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 187 
 
 size, and prove him to have possessed a stature of 
 body somewhat proportionate to the gigantic villany 
 of his mind. 
 
 Before leaving the suite of rooms I had the tapes- 
 try in the inner chamber removed from the wains- 
 coat, which is connected with the trap-stair already 
 spoken of The leaf is ingenious ; and its purpose 
 not easy to be detected. The passage descending 
 from it is singularly gloomy, and the steps at no 
 great depth are lost in darkness. 
 
 It is remarkable that this stair terminates in the 
 chapel of Holyrood ; and that the assassins of Rizzio 
 must have passed through that sanctuary in order to 
 have reached the scene of their intended villany. 
 In fact, all the circumstances connected with the 
 perpetration of this foul deed mark an astonishing 
 pitch of daring, as well as coolness of atrocity. 
 
 Among the accomplices in the murder of Rizzio, 
 was no less a personage than the Lord High Chan- 
 cellor of Scotland. He even assumed the conduct 
 and superintendence of the enterprize, — although 
 undertaken in open violation of the laws both of God 
 and man ; and all this moreover, in the very pre^ 
 sence of his sovereign. 
 
 There is a curious and minute account of the 
 whole of this bloody transaction preserved in a let- 
 ter which was written immediately subsequently to 
 the event by the then English resident in Scotland 
 to the Lords of the privy council. After detailing a 
 Tariety of circumstances too numerous to be extract- 
 
18« WALK TO HOLYROOD. 
 
 ed, the writer proceeds with adding, that, ' Upon Sa- 
 turdaye at nigcht, neire unto vin of the clocke, the 
 king, (Darnly) conveyeth himself, the lord Ruthen, 
 George Duglass and twa others by the privy stayers 
 up to the queene's chamber, going to which is a 
 closset about xii foot square : in the same a little 
 low reposing bedde and a table at the which theyr 
 were sitting at supper the queene, the lady Argile 
 and David (Rizzio) with his cappe upon his hed. 
 Into the closset theyr cometh in the king, and lord 
 Ruthen, who willed David to come forth, saying, 
 that was no place for him. The queene saide, that 
 it was hur will. Her howsebande answerede that 
 y' was against hur honour. The lord Ruthen said, 
 that he shoulde lerne better his deutie, and offering 
 to take him by the arm, David tooke the queene by 
 the blychtes of hur gowne. who wolde gladlee 
 have saved him : But the king having loosed his 
 hande, and holding hur in his arms, David was 
 thrust owt, and throwe the bedchamber into the 
 chamber of presens, whar were the lord Morton, 
 lord Lindsey, and so mane that bore him ill will 
 that one thruste him into the boddie with a dagger, 
 and after hym a great mane others, so that he had in 
 his boddie above fiftie wonds.' 
 
 In the same letter is related a singular parley 
 which took place between the queen and two of the 
 conspirators, Darnley and Ruthven, on the occasion 
 of Rizzio's murder. To the former she said in a 
 tone of high threatening, ' You have ta'en yr last 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 189 
 
 of me and yr farewelle.' — and towards the close of 
 the conversation, after much mutual crimination, she 
 added, ' Well, that shall be dear blude to some of 
 ye, yf his be spylt !" 
 
 Rizzio, it is stated, ' had upon hys back when he 
 was slayn a nigcht-gowne of damask furred, with a 
 satten doublette, and a hose of russette velvette ;' — 
 also, — ' a juill was hanging about hys necke of some 
 price yt cannot be hearde of.' 
 
 The tragical end of this man may well excite our 
 commiseration ; and a feeling of indignation natu- 
 rally arises within us against the remorseless ruf- 
 fians who plotted his death. But his fate was scarce- 
 ly worse than that of the chief accomplices in his 
 murder. In fact the divine vengeance seemed to 
 attend them wherever they went, and several of 
 them at different times expiated with their blood 
 the part which they bore in the slaughter of this 
 unhappy foreigner. Darnley himself as is well 
 known, perished by the explosion of gunpowder, 
 designedly placed under a house in which he lodg- 
 ed ; and only a few months after he had glutted his 
 deadly hate by rioting in the blood of Rizzio, his 
 stormy passions were hushed in death, and the co- 
 lossal frame which seemed to mock at the common 
 lot of humanity was laid low and motionless, as the 
 clods of the valley, under the cloistered pavement 
 of the chapel of Holyrood. 
 
 This chapel, or rather what remains of it, is well 
 wortliy of attention. Its order is a light Gothic, 
 
19a WALK TO HOLYROOD. 
 
 is susceptible of a high degree of decoration, 
 and the architect seems to have lavished the 
 luxuriances of its ornaments upon this noble 
 monument of the taste and piety of his age. 
 At the time of the revolution, when a protest- 
 ant prince ascended the united throne of Scot- 
 land and England, and the fanaticism of the follow-" 
 ers of John Knox had attained its height, the popu- 
 lace of Edinburgh wreaked their vengeance upon 
 it, on the ground that popish mass had been cele- 
 brated within its walls, and that it was distinguished 
 by those carnal appendages of the papal church, — an 
 organ, a spire, and a fine chime of bells. The in- 
 side of the fabric was almost wholly demolished. 
 Its decorations were objects of a peculiarly malig- 
 nant resentment ; and many of them were defaced, 
 mutilated, or destroyed. Happily the walls were 
 left standing : and a colonnade which supported the 
 roof over one of the side aisles still remains. A no- 
 ble work it is ; — the pillars of which continue to ex- 
 hibit an elegance of tracery work in delicate pre- 
 servation, despite of the wastes of time and the 
 despoiling hand of a fanatical canaille. 
 
 After I had examined the old apartments already 
 described, and as much as I wished to see of the 
 palace, I devoted some time to the inspection of 
 this ruinous fabric. Roofless and dilapidated as it 
 is, its aspect is impressive, and it seems to sit in 
 sackcloth as though mourning the departure of it§ 
 pristine glor^. 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 191 
 
 Beneath its ' lettered stones' is interred some of 
 the noblest dust of the Scottish princes. Several 
 graves of these puissant mortals were pointed out 
 to me, and among them, two or three tombs of the 
 Stuarts. As I trod the pavement in quest of these 
 depositories of the dead, the sound of the falling 
 footstep reverberated from the walls, broke upon 
 the wonted silence of the place with an almost 
 chilling effect ; and the wind as it swept in hollow 
 gusts through the broken arches and along the lone 
 and deserted spaces of the chapel ruin, seemed to 
 wail a requiem to the sleeping tenants of the tomb, 
 whilst it told of the desolation which reigned 
 around. 
 
 And how changed, how fallen from its ancient 
 grandeur is this consecrated edifice ! Could its walls 
 speak, what tales might they utter, what a moral 
 would they impress ! Here the congregations of 
 many a generation have assembled in the ostensible 
 office of devotion, and have successively gone down 
 to darkness and to dust, — Here mitred prelates have 
 stood to bless, and kings have knelt to worship. 
 Here piety has breathed its aspirations ; and peni- 
 tence has whispered its confessions ; and fanaticism 
 has fanned her fervours. Here the votary of a 
 maddening superstition has soared in mystic trances, 
 whilst censers have smoked, nnd tapers have gleam- 
 ed, and the gorgeous symbols of a mistaken faith 
 have struck upon the ravished sense. And here, 
 
192 WALK TO HOLYROOD. 
 
 too, when the majestic organ has wakened its spirit- 
 stirring melody, and the vaulted roof has echoed to 
 the swelling chant of voices, — the rapt fancy has 
 depicted, in the concerts of earth, a similitude to the 
 harmonies of Heaven. But the solemn pageantry 
 has vanished ; — its actors are no more : — the light in 
 the ' golden candlestick' is quenched ; — the choral 
 hymn has ceased, and saving a few imperfect vesti- 
 ges, the eye searches in vain within the crumbling 
 pile for some memorial of the hallowed rites which 
 once were solemnised within it, — some record which 
 may attest its former magnificence, and speak an 
 ' Ilium fuit' 
 
 The chapel itself was originally a monastic 
 church, attached to the religious house of Holy- 
 rood, — a convent having been founded here as early 
 as the commencement of the 12th century. It was 
 denominated the Monastery of the Holy Cross, and 
 was possessed by some monks of the order of St. 
 Augustine, who practising upon the piety, or rather 
 the superstitious weaknesses of the princes of the se- 
 veral succeeding ages, acquired many privileges for 
 the institution, and grants of ample revenues. In 
 process of time, it became the richest religious 
 foundation in Scotland ; and gave support to a name 
 rous fraternity of monks.* 
 
 * There was an estimate made of its revenues in the year 1688, 
 which is subjoined for the amusement of the curious reader. 
 —•They were computed to amount to 2650 bushels of wheat, 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 193 
 
 At the Reformation, when in common with their 
 brethren of other monastic orders, the inmates of 
 Holyrood were expelled from their fair demesnes 
 and stripped of the wealth which the cupidity of 
 earlier generations had amassed, the abbey chapel 
 was converted into a parish church, and not a few 
 of the privileges appertaining to it in its original 
 state were transferred to its new proprietors. Some 
 of these have remained untouched to the present 
 day, to the no small convenience of those who are 
 constrained to seek their benefit. — The environs af- 
 ford an asylum from prosecutions for debt ; as also 
 does an extensive park adjacent to the abbey ; — and 
 bankrupts have only to take up their quarters with- 
 in the privileged precinct to defy the whole power 
 and mahce of their creditors, even backed by the long 
 arm of the civil law. Around the court, immediate- 
 ly in front of Holyrood-house, is a range of small 
 tenements, erected expressly for the accommoda- 
 tion of insolvent debtors, who, safe in the inviolate 
 sanctity of the retreat, pursue, without fear of mo- 
 lestation, their ordinary occupations. Nor is this 
 their only privilege. On the sabbath they are at 
 liberty to walk abroad beyond the abbey limits, and 
 to appear with impunity in any part of the city or 
 
 3360 bushels of oats, nearly 4000 bushels of barley ; 500 capons, 
 24 hois, as many salmon, twelve loads of salt, together with a 
 considerable number of swine, and about 250/. sterling, iu 
 cash. 
 
 17 
 
194 WALK TO HOLYROOD. 
 
 suburbs, at all hours between the rising and the set- 
 ting of the sun. 
 
 After the dethronement of Louis XVI., when se- 
 veral of the surviving Bourbons sought refuge in 
 Scotland, and were lodged for a season in the pa- 
 lace of Holyrood, prior to their removal to England, 
 it is said that the royal exiles were compelled for a 
 time, in consequence of a failure of remittances, to 
 avail themselves of the ancient immunities of the 
 Abbey^ and to avoid trespassing beyond the bounds 
 of the Canongate, saving on the returns of the 
 sabbath. 
 
 That such an absurd privilege should still be kept 
 up, and that too, as a prerogative of a soi-disant mo- 
 nastic institution, might excite a smile, if it did not 
 provoke a severer feeling. Granting its adaptation 
 to the barbarousness of the age wherein it origin- 
 ated, — that it should be tolerated, nevertheless, in 
 the 19th century, is truly pitiable. The trial by 
 ordeal if retained in practice, would be equally ra- 
 tional and fitting, on the score of equity. For the 
 immunity guaranteed to debtors indiscriminately, be- 
 nefits the knavish, no less than the upright. Ac- 
 cordingly, it is as likely that the creditor be defraud- 
 ed, as that the innocent be sheltered ;— and if the 
 honest bankrupt sometimes finds under the shadow 
 of the walls of Holyrood a retreat from unfeeling 
 persecution, the criminal defaulter as often resorts 
 to it, to escape the just application of coercive 
 means to compel a restitution of indisputable dues. — 
 
WALK TO HOLYROOD. 195 
 
 Happy it is, thought I, as I left the spot and retraced 
 my steps to the city, — happy it is, that there is one 
 country where such hoary reUcs ot a barbarous age 
 are unknown; — where customs of doubtful propriety 
 are not perpetuated, simply because they are time- 
 hallowed ; and where, with a due veneration for the 
 institutions of remote periods, there is a ready re- 
 jection of all such as are unproductive of positive 
 good, or which have nothing to recommend them 
 beyond the crust of antiquity. 
 
 Edinburgh, November, 1816. 
 
T@'WB> Wli at©ll ^Al^ElHS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 GRAMPIANS. 
 
 V-. 
 
 17* 
 
 .^ 
 
TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 AND THE 
 
 lASf 
 
 FALKIRK, MAY 29, 1817. 
 
 X HAD taken leave of a friend this morning at the 
 door of Macgregor's in Edinburgh, and was entering 
 the coach for this place when a cordial, ' How are 
 you V from a familiar voice, directed my attention to 
 a gentleman occupying a seat in one corner. It was 
 Mr. R*****, of Liverpool,* who had been parsing a 
 few weeks in the city. He had made his arrange- 
 ments to leave it several days ago, on his return to 
 England, but circumstances had unexpectedly delay- 
 ed his departure hitherto, and he was now on his 
 way to Glasgow, with an intention of immediately 
 proceeding thence to Liverpool. 
 
 Enquiring my plans of route, Mr. R. expressed re- 
 gret that he had not been previously apprised of my 
 contemplated journey to the north highlands, as he 
 would cheerfully have accompanied me during at 
 
 * Son of the celebrated Biographer of Lorenzo di Medicis. 
 
200 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 least the greater part of the tour. As circumstances 
 were, he decided to go with me as far as the Tro- 
 sachs and Loch Lomond, — a resolution which has 
 given me great pleasure, as, independently of other 
 companionable qualities, his various and entertaining 
 conversation, and his extensive knowledge of men 
 and things, render him a very desirable fellow-tra- 
 veller. 
 
 This negotiation being soon brought to a close, 
 we had leisure to observe what was passing with- 
 out, — in other words, to perceive that, had our at- 
 tention been otherwise engrossed for a much longer 
 time, we should have lost nothing of interest until 
 our arrival at Linlithgow. The morning it is true, 
 proved clear ; — a circumstance which we could not 
 refrain noting, as in this region, and at this time of the 
 year, it is a phenomenon of rather rare occurrence. 
 The peasantry moreover, were actively engaged in 
 the fields ; and it required no yankee guess to pre- 
 sume that the New England farmer was far from 
 being idle, rain or shine. In general however, the 
 country appeared in a state of higher cultivation be- 
 tween Edinburgh and Linlithgow, than is usually met 
 with in districts of like extent in yankee land. It is 
 thickly wooded too, — larches, firs, oaks, beeches, 
 sycamores, elms and pines, — some of them of great 
 size, — appearing in thriving plantations on every 
 side. 
 
 At Linlithgow, we left the coach, in order to visit 
 the few objects of interest in the immediate vicinity, 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 201 
 
 intending to pursue our journey northward on the 
 following" morning. We first walked to the ruins of 
 the palace, formerly one of the seats of the kings of 
 Scotland, and still retaining marks of its ancient 
 splendour. Originally it was a stupendous quadran- 
 gular pile, surrounding a spacious area, in the centre 
 of which was a magnificent fountain. Fragments of 
 the tank remain, and the water itself is pellucid to 
 transparency. The architectural order of the palace 
 is Saxon. 
 
 Several dates are sculptured on the walls ; one of 
 which, — 16 1 9, — I particularly noticed as it led me back 
 to the first settlement of my native land.* Two cen- 
 turies have not elapsed since the latter event, and in 
 the interim, whilst the house of the Stuarts, like this 
 palace which they tenanted, has crumbled into dust, 
 and the population of Scotland been but slowly aug- 
 mented, and its physical resources as slowly deve- 
 loped, — an empire of ten millions has arisen beyond 
 the Atlantic wave, and in an unexampled ratio is now 
 fast ascending to power and renown. Little was 
 such a stupendous result anticipated when Linlith- 
 gow was last the seat of Scottish royalty ; and little 
 were consequences so momentous augured, when 
 the bark which bore the first company of pilgrims 
 to the northern shores of the new world was per- 
 mitted to depart on its lone and adventurous voyage. 
 In that feeble band was Carver ; and there too, 
 
 * The precise date of the first settlement in New-EnglanrI, 
 was December 22, 1620. 
 
202 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 were Winslow and Stat^dish and Brewster, names, 
 which however then unknown in courts and palaces, 
 will go down to the latest ages emblazoned on the 
 roll of fame, and each passing year shall add one 
 cubit more to the imperishable monument of their 
 glory. 
 
 But to return to Linlithgow, or Lithgow^ as the 
 word is familiarly pronounced : — In the palace we 
 were shown the apartment wherein Mary, queen of 
 Scots, was bom ; or rather we were conducted to 
 that part of the structure where this apartment once 
 was, and where it still would be, but for the almost 
 total want of three out of the four walls. This, how- 
 ever, is quite as much as the visiter has a right to 
 expect in these cases ; at least, so thinks the cicerone, 
 who,with an air of importance and gravity bordering 
 not a little on the grotesque, would make one believe 
 that he is amply compensated for the silver piece 
 paid in return, if instead of one whole wsill, rendered 
 so memorable as this of Lithgow, a few dilapidated 
 moss-covered stones were exhibited. In other parts 
 of the pile, a number of rooms, several galleries, and 
 two or three of the highest towers remain in good 
 preservation. A large tower at the southern angle 
 fell about a month ago, and with tremendous vio- 
 lence broke through into some vaults and subterra- 
 nean passages under the pavement of the court. 
 Another hard by, is already partially dislodged, and 
 gives awful warning that it is destined soon to com- 
 
Al\I> THE GRAMPIANS. 203 
 
 plete the work of destruction below, which its com- 
 rade has so effectually commenced. 
 
 Adjacent to the palace, stands the old cathedral, 
 which is also hastening to decay. I should except, 
 however, in this remark, the eastern end which has 
 lately been repaired, and is now statedly used as a 
 place of religious worship. Among the marvels of 
 the cathedral ruins, is a side aisle, which was point- 
 ed out to us as the spot where the spectre appeared 
 to James IV. and warned him of the fatal defeat 
 whicli awaited his arms at Fiodden. The scene of 
 interview, we thought, judiciously chosen ; and even 
 at this late day, considering all the accompaniments, 
 it would answer full as well for another goblin con- 
 ference. The aisle is in a recess, sequestered from 
 the main body of the building. The little light that 
 is admitted, scarcely relieves the gloom, and the 
 walls are covered with moss, or rather an incrusta- 
 tion of green mould, occasioned by the constant 
 dampness of the air. It did not occur to us to in- 
 quire whether there had actually been any recent 
 spectral appearances on this spot, — especially whe- 
 ther the elfin interlocutor of James had held his 
 court there of late. Leaving these important par- 
 ticulars to be settled by other and more inquisitive 
 tourists, I merely add on the subject of these ruins, 
 that both the palace and the cathedral, occupy one 
 of the best positions imaginable. They crown a 
 small eminence that rises gently from the margin of 
 a neighbouring lake, of considerable size and great 
 
204 TOUR TO LOCH KATRIJNE 
 
 beauty. The lawn which slopes to the water side 
 is sprinkled with a few trees, which add much to the 
 prettiness of the whole scene. 
 
 Having introductory letters to the celebrated 
 Dugald Stewart, we next proceeded to his residence, 
 which is situated about three miles from Linlithgow, 
 not far from the Frith of Forth. But a sad disap- 
 pointment awaited us on our arrival at the Lodge, 
 where we learnt that Mr. S. with all his family, had 
 for some time been absent on a journey to the 
 neighbourhood of Montrose. This disappointment, 
 we had neither of us prepared our minds for, as 
 Mr. S. is understood to be rarely absent from home. 
 It is seldom indeed, that he visits Edinburgh, — 
 scarcely going there once in a twelvemonth. Stran- 
 gers accordingly who seek an introduction to him, 
 rarely enjoy that privilege elsewhere, than at his 
 own residence ; and there, on being presented to 
 him, they are uniformly received with urbanity. 
 As respects Mr. R. and myself, all regret on the 
 present occasion was unavailing ; and we had to 
 submit to the necessity of the case with as good a 
 grace as we could assume, which, to be sure, was a 
 very ill one. Previously to our return to Linlith- 
 gow, we devoted a little time to a walk over the 
 grounds attached to the residence of Mr. Stewart. 
 
 Kinniel-House, — the name of this seat, — though 
 occupied for a number of years by this great man, is 
 in fact the property of the duke of Hamilton. 
 It is a stately mansion, spacious, but clumsily con- 
 
AND THE GRAMPIAN;?. £05 
 
 structed, standing in the centre of a noble park. 
 A fine avenue planted with aged trees, leads from 
 the lodge to the house. About midway, this path is 
 intersected by a clear gurgling brook, the banks of 
 which are prettily fringed with coppice and under- 
 wood, and the waters dash from the rocks with a 
 charming effect. The view from the mansion is 
 picturesque, and the whole place is exceedingly 
 well adapted for philosophic and literary retirement. 
 
 Returning to Linlithgow, we took a hasty dinner, 
 and there being no new objects of interest to attract 
 attention, and the afternoon proving mild and clear, 
 we determined, instead of waiting till the following 
 morning, to proceed on foot, forthwith to Falkirk, 
 and to leave our baggage to come after us in the 
 evening coach. The distance is about eight miles, 
 — the road traversing a fertile and lovely tract of 
 country, — which amply rewarded us for the little 
 fatigue we were subjected to, on the walk. The 
 Forth continued in sight during much of the way. 
 Laurieston, a neat and thriving village, occurred on 
 the route, besides one or two hamlets. Approach- 
 ing Falkirk, the surface of the country became more 
 uneven and rugged, and began to swell into hills. 
 These gradually incrensed in magnitude as we ad- 
 vanced, an;l gave prcsasce that we were drawing 
 near to mountainous districts. 
 
 Stirling castle, the ' bulwark of the north,' was 
 first descried by us, when we were three or four 
 miles distant from Falkirk. It appeared very dis- 
 
 18 
 
206 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 tinct, and formed a fine feature in the landscape. 
 Beyond, and to the north and west of it, were seen 
 the summits of an extended chain of mountains, which 
 were arrayed in the deepest, loveUest blue. These 
 we presumed to constitute a part of the Grampian 
 ridge, and they seemed stationed as by the hand of 
 nature to serve as an eternal barrier to the territo- 
 ries of the Gael. 
 
 Falkirk pleased us very much. It is a bustling 
 thriving town, containing eight or nine thousand 
 inhabitants. It is not quite so cleanly indeed, as 
 could be wished, but however it is better in this 
 respect than many other towns in the Lowlands, 
 and accordingly pleases the more by contrast. 
 There has been a weekly market here to-day. 
 The town is filled with country peasantry, tricked 
 out in their best attire, and making in general, a 
 very decent appearance. These people have an 
 eye probably to the Stirling fair, which we under- 
 stand will be held to-morrow. We shall probably 
 take a peep at the same fair, as we propose leaving 
 this place early in the morning, and proceeding 
 to Stirling to breakfast. My next date, will be at 
 
 Ardkenacrochkan Farm, May 30. 
 I WAS unable to supply the word last night as it 
 was doubtful how far we should proceed to-day. At 
 a very early hour, Mr. R. and myself left Falkirk in 
 a gig for Stirling, a distance of about eleven miles. 
 Our equipage was the best which the inn aflforded, 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 207 
 
 and a more sorry affair can scj'.rcely be conceived. 
 The horse was one of the most jaded and miserably 
 looking animals which were ever harnessed to a thill ; 
 and the gig, whatever of convenience and strength 
 it m'ffht once have boasted, had become so much 
 the worse for the wear, in fact, was so crazy and 
 rickety, that we had serious apprehensions that it 
 would break down from under us before we had 
 quite moved from the yard. But in this we were 
 disappointed, — and happily after a journey of three 
 hours, we alighted in safety at the Red Lion in Stir- 
 ling, considering ourselves fortunate in arriving there 
 on any terms. The delay which we thus suffered, 
 gave us an opportunity of seeing more fully the fine 
 country through which we passed ; but as for admir- 
 ing it, that was out of the question. And here le- 
 me mention, what the experience of every traveller 
 will confirm, that there is the widest difference be- 
 tween the actual seeing^ and the fancying objects and 
 things at a distance. In the latter case, mere asso- 
 ciation predominates, unalloyed by personal ^ee/iwg-. 
 The reader of a traveller's journal or diary, is 
 disposed to think that every thing is gold which 
 glitters. When he peruses a florid discription of the 
 beauties of a foreign scene, he does not take into the 
 account, the inconvenience and vexation of miserable 
 horses, and worse vehicles, and muddy roads, — to say 
 nothing of now and then a surly innkeeper, or some 
 easily-besetting sharper. It does not occur to him 
 whilst sitting at his ease in his own parlour, by his 
 
208 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 comfortable fire-side, leisurely turning over the 
 leaves of an itinerary, of the thousand nameless ills to 
 which the traveller has been heir during the sojourn- 
 ings which that itinerary records ; — how he has been 
 made to encounter, perhaps, the peltings of a mer- 
 ciless storm, — the drippings of a searching Scotch 
 mist^ (which in most cases is rather the worse of the 
 two evils,) — or it may be, the ardours of a sultry 
 sun ; — and how, after a wayworn, wearisome day's 
 march, he is obliged to seek covert in a tenement 
 which promises every thing but quietness, — and re- 
 pose in a bed already haunted by a tribe of certain 
 brown-coated gentry, who are too sturdy and adroit 
 to be dislodged by any of the manoeuvres of modern 
 tactics. But as 1 have neither disposition nor time 
 just now to describe the traveller's ' miseries,' (and 
 not the least, by the by, is the attempting to pre- 
 serve a journal, however hasty of daily incident,) I 
 will leave this topic after further saying, that, the 
 tourist too often finds to his cost, that the charm 
 which the imagination throws over objects when 
 contemplated at a distance, fades on a near approach, 
 and is then found to be but an empty though bril- 
 liant illusion. 
 
 On the ride from Falkirk, we crossed the battle 
 ground of Bannockburn, skirting a stream of that 
 name, where, five centuries ago, Robert Bruce, with 
 an army of 30,000, engaged and vanquished Edward 
 II. at the head of 100,000 men. The field, which is 
 very fertile, is now under high cultivation. The 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 209 
 
 road to Stirling was thronged with people, — men, 
 women and children, who were repairing thither to 
 attend the fair. As we entered the town, we found 
 several of the streets already tilled, and lined with 
 panniers, and barrovvs, and drays, and stalls, which 
 were furnished with uncounted varieties of wares, 
 all very tempting of course. 
 
 From the din and bustle of the crowd, we were 
 glad to escape to the more peaceful quarter of the 
 town, where we first alighted, and after breakfasting, 
 we sallied forth to explore the castle, and take a 
 bird's eye view of the environs. A near view of 
 Stirling, as we approached it, had showed it to 
 great advantage. The town is built upon a hill, 
 which in its form resembles that on which the old 
 town of Edinburgh stands. The castle is almost a 
 perfectyac simile^ though somewhat in miniature, of 
 that in the latter place. It is situated on a basaltic 
 rock which projects with a bold, precipitous front 
 towards the west, and commands one of the finest 
 prospects in the world. 
 
 The view from the esplanade is in several re- 
 spects decidedly superior, at least, in my humble 
 opinion, to the one, so justly admired, from the round 
 tower of Windsor. It has more of character about 
 it, and a degree of wildness too in that character 
 which the other wants. Nothing, it is true, can ex- 
 cel in softness and many other features of beauty, 
 the Windsor landscape. To say that it is rich^ is to 
 convey a faint idea of its effect on the eye. It is 
 
 18* 
 
210 TOtTR TO LOCH KATRIJN^E 
 
 rich to luxuriousness ; and there is a glow and an 
 enamelling in its colourings, which are indescribably 
 lovely. But after all, there is a tameness, or rather 
 a sleepiness in the scene which does not satisfy the 
 mind ; — it is like contemplating a marble bust of 
 Rysbrach's chiseling. The whole may be beautiful 
 in its way ; but the features are motionless and are 
 destitute of sufficient expression. There is another 
 thing wanting in the view from Windsor. There are 
 no mountains bounding the prospect, or stretching 
 in undulating swells along the distant horizon ; and 
 I freely confess myself to be of the opinion of the 
 honest Scot, so humourously described by Dr. Moore, 
 who maintained, that as well might a woman with a 
 pair of sparkling eyes, a ruddy complexion and a 
 beautiful mouth, be termed handsome, without a 
 nose on her face, as a landscape be pronounced per- 
 fect, without a mountain to complete its effect. 
 
 Of mountains, there is no want in the view from 
 Stirling castle, and yet they do not obtrude them- 
 selves on the eye. They are sufficiently removed 
 into the back ground, and withal, effectually serve 
 to fill up the landscape, and impart to it an air of in- 
 expressible dignity and grandeur. From the ram- 
 parts of the castle we beheld chains of the Ochill 
 and Grampian highlands, and far to the west, the 
 blue peaks of the mountains of Argyle and Dum- 
 barton. Below us, the majestic Forth was seen for 
 many a mile flowing in graceful meanderings through 
 a successsion of verdant meads, and fine, fertile 
 
AA'D THE GRAMPIANS. 211 
 
 lields, dispensing on either hand, beauty and luxuri- 
 ance. The windings of this stream in the immediate 
 vicinity of Stirling, are very remarkable. Its course 
 has been fancifully compared to the figure of some 
 huge fabled serpent, stretching its enormous folds 
 over an extent of landscape, not however to destroy, 
 but to fertilize and enrich. 
 
 It was with difficulty that we withdrew our eyes 
 from the enchanting scenery without, to inspect what 
 was within the castle. A soldier of the 40th con- 
 ducted us round, but we saw nothing very observable. 
 The castle comprises two or three courts, one with- 
 in another, which are each protected by immense 
 gateways and Portcullises. Formerly it must have 
 possessed great comparative strength, and even now 
 it presents a very formidable and imposing appear- 
 ance, although in point of utility it is about as ser- 
 viceable as John o** Gaunt's effigy in armour, and the 
 other cap-a-pie wooden warriors in the Tower. This 
 castle was one of the favourite residences of the 
 Scottish monarchs, and the place where several of 
 the James'' held their courts. A noble house, or 
 more properly, palace, occupies a central position 
 within the walls, which was built by James V. We 
 did not forget to enquire for the regal hall in which 
 the knight of Snowdon stood, ^ the centre of the 
 glittering ring,' when unloosing the golden chain 
 from his neck, he ' laid the clasp on Ellen's hand.' 
 The castle armoury is an object of some curiosity; 
 but after hastily inspecting it, we eagerly returned to 
 the ramparts to enjoy again, and fix more deeply on 
 
212 TOUR TO LOCH KATRIJnE 
 
 our minds the magnificent scenery which they over- 
 look. 
 
 On our return to the inn, we found cards, and an invi- 
 tation to dine with the family of Provost L . We 
 
 had left an introductory letter at the house shortly 
 after our arrival in town, but the gentleman to whom 
 it was addressed, (Alexander L., Esq.) was not at 
 home at the time. He had since been seeking us at 
 the castle and elsewhere, but we had not the 
 good fortune to meet with him. The invitation to 
 dine and other civilities, proifered in an accompany- 
 ing note, we regretted to be under the necessity of 
 declining ; but Mr. R. being desirous of prosecuting 
 the tour with all convenient speed, and the day con- 
 tinuing very tempting, we concluded to order a gig 
 for Callendar, and recommence our travels. 
 
 The bell of the Franciscan tower pealed the 
 hour of twelve, as we drove from the door of the 
 Red Lion. Descending Stirling hill, we noticed 
 what had before escaped attention, a number of 
 walks cut in ledges around the base of the castle 
 mount, which were romantically sheltered by hang- 
 ing woods. We met numbers of people repairing 
 to the town, but no one whose tall majestic figure, 
 and firm measured step, proclaimed the approach of 
 the Dougla^s. Crossing the Forth, we entered on 
 a tract of rich meads, and two miles further arrived 
 at the Allan water. Leaving that stream, we ascend- 
 ed an eminence which commanded a charming land- 
 scape, comprising in immediate prospect, the great 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 213 
 
 vale which extends from Gartmore on the west by 
 Stirling and Falkirk on the east, with the noble wind- 
 ings of the Frith of Forth. Blair Drummond, the seat 
 of the late distinguished lord Kames, was passed a 
 mile or two distant at our left, on the other side of 
 the river. 
 
 Our first stage was to Doune, nine miles through 
 a fine country, well wooded. StirUng with its ve- 
 nerable castle, formed a noble object behind us, 
 and as we approached Doune, the eye was greeted 
 by one of the finest baronial ruins in Scotland. 
 The Castle of Doune is situated on a penin- 
 sula, formed by the confluence of Ardoch and the 
 Teith. It is a huge square building, with walls of 
 ten feet in thickness. The tower, at least so much 
 of it as remains, is eighty feet high. The whole 
 fabric, (parts of which it is computed, have outstood 
 the lapse of seven centuries,) is now fast verging 
 into ruin; but dilapidated as it is, it still gives the 
 second title of lord Doune to the ancient house of 
 Moray. The only banner which now waves over 
 its mouldering walls, is the tall rank grass which 
 grows luxuriantly on its topmost turrets. 
 
 This castle, like many others, is interesting for 
 having been for some time the residence of the beau- 
 tiful and accomplished, but unhappy Queen Mary. 
 It is related also, that in the year 1745, a party of 
 students of the University of Edinburgh, being taken 
 prisoners, were confined in the strong hold of this 
 5ame castle. They had armed themselves in the 
 
214 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 royal cause, and panting for an opportunity to signal- 
 ize their valour, scoured the country as far as the 
 water of Teith. It so happened that Glundhu, 
 (^poetically, a lineal descendant of Rhoderic Dhu,) 
 at that time held possession of the castle, for the ' use 
 and behoof of the Pretender. With a small force 
 he succeeded in capturing the doughty band of 
 beardless youths, and conducting them in safety to 
 to the ' bannered towers of Doune,' there furnished 
 them severally with the best wards which the keep 
 afforded. John Home, author of the tragedy of 
 Douglass, was one of their number, who in his his- 
 tory of the events of 1745, has given an entertain- 
 ing narrative of their escape. 
 
 Mention of Doune occurs frequently in the Lady 
 of the Lake, and it is left to be presumed by the 
 reader of that popular poem, that the chivalrous 
 Fitz-James, and his retinue lodged within the walls of 
 this castle on the night preceding the chase. 
 
 , Our route from Doune to Callendar, was the 
 self-same which lord Moray's train pursued on the 
 occasion alluded to. We could not help wishing that 
 our steed had inherited a little of the mettle of their 
 ' gallant greys ;' — but so far as we could discover, 
 notwithstanding the application of a sufficient gal- 
 vanic power, the whole was extinct. In justice to 
 the poor beast however, it should be added, that he 
 made no pretensions, and in the long run, (i. e. a pacing 
 step of four miles an hour,) proved himself decidedly 
 superior to his morning's predecessor — ^ Hyperion 
 to a Satyr.' 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 215 
 
 As we approached Callendar, the mountains group- 
 ed themselves finely in the fore ground ; and among 
 them Ben-ledi in all his grandeur, towered on the 
 view at every step. We passed Cambusmore, a 
 beautiful country seat, embosomed in plantations 
 with an extensive lawn in front ; and shortly after, 
 crossed the Bracklinn, which Scott speaks of as a 
 ' thundering flood.' It is an impetuous mountain 
 stream, brawling over a rocky channel, here and 
 there tumbling in cascades, or foaming in rapids, 
 and on the whole, answers very well to the poet's 
 description. Entering Callendar, we noticed kilts of 
 plaid worn by the boys, the first which I have seen 
 on children. They were unaccompanied by the 
 tartan hose, or even a vulgar pair of shoes. The 
 latter articles of dress, the Scotch in general, hold 
 apparently m great contempt. The females espe- 
 cially it would seem, regard them as very unneces- 
 sary appendages. In the course of the day, we met 
 many women, both young and old, well dressed in 
 other respects, excepting that they were barefoot. 
 Some, indeed, we saw furnished both with shoes 
 and stockings ; but they took the precaution to carry 
 them under their arms, in order probably, to have 
 them handy to put on, when arriving near their 
 place of destination. 
 
 At Callendar we dismissed our gig, and having 
 dined, commenced our last stage, on foot. It was a 
 pleasant walk of three hours. The village of C. is 
 situated near the Teith,on the very borders of the 
 
216 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 highlands, so that in leaving it we began to penetrate 
 the Switzerland of North Britain. The river Teith 
 for a part of its course, was anciently regarded as 
 a boundary between the Highland and Lowland dis- 
 tricts, and its waters have often been dyed with 
 human blood, shed in the combats of the neighbour- 
 ing inhabitants. 
 
 There is a good deal of the picturesque in the 
 scenery round Callendar. It possesses at least, 
 much sylvan beauty, and an air of romantic wild- 
 ness. The landscape assumed new charms as we 
 proceeded, although association, doubtless, lent 
 something of interest to it ; for it was impossible in 
 the present instance, to forget wholly that we were 
 treading on classic ground. 
 
 Crossing a corner of Strathire not far from the 
 site of the chapel of St. Bride, we entered on Bo- 
 chastle, a beautiful mead spread along the margin 
 of the Teith, and extending as far as its outlet from 
 Loch Vennachar. The Teith, it should be remem- 
 bered, takes its rise above Loch Katrine, and flow- 
 ing through that Lake, next pursues its course 
 through the lakes, Achray and Vennachar. In allu- 
 sion to this circumstance of its birth, Scott denomi- 
 nates it, ' the daughter of three mighty Lakes ;' but 
 here, namely at Bochastle, it is quite in its infancy. 
 At the end of the mead, just where the stream 
 issues from Loch Vennachar, we arrived at Coilan- 
 t6gle Ford. This was Clan alpine's outmost guard, 
 the scene of conflict between Roderick and Fitz- 
 james, and accordingly we viewed it with lively in- 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 217 
 
 terest. A convenient bridge of two arches, erect- 
 ed no long time ago, contributes much to the com- 
 fort of the traveller, by superseding the necessity 
 of actually fording the stream. 
 
 From this place, the road, which was now little 
 better than a foot-path, followed closely the margin 
 of Vennachar, for three miles or more, at the same 
 time, winding along the skirts of Ben Ledi. A point 
 of land, indifferently cultivated, and with a few mi- 
 serable cabins upon it, projected into the lake at 
 the end of this distance. There was. no mistaking 
 this for the scene of gathering, or the muster-place 
 of the Clan-Alpines. Lannck mead it was, sure 
 enough ; and this determmed another point, name- 
 ly, that from the heather and broom which clothed 
 the acclivities of Ben Ledi on our right, the follow- 
 ers of Roderick Dhu arose at his whistling, in grim 
 defiance of Fitz-James. 
 
 Two miles further brought us to the Brigg of 
 Turk, and the small village of Duncraggan. This 
 last is divided into two hamlets ; the houses of 
 which, as Scott has most accurately described them, 
 
 Peeped like moss-grown rocks, half seen, 
 Half hidden in the copse so green. 
 
 We passed between the hamlets. That on the 
 right is sheltered by a few venerable firs and larch- 
 es, which flung their dusky lengthening shadows 
 around, and warned us of the near approach of 
 evening. 
 
 19 
 
218 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 The road soon wound down from the sides of Ben 
 Ledi to the charming shores of Loch Achray. The 
 scenery lost none of its grandeur, although the fea- 
 tures were more intermingled. A little before us, 
 ' Ben-An heaved high his forehead bare,' and fur- 
 ther to the left surrounded with numerous other Al* 
 pine forms, arose the bold outline of Ben Venue. 
 Achray is a lovely expanse of water. It is girt 
 with a border of waving woods, and meads of pasto- 
 ral softness. As we approached it, a breeze was 
 gently agitating its surface ; bu this shortly died 
 away, and the waters slumbered in profound repose. 
 The summits of the adjacent mountains were seen 
 reflected from its placid bosom with equal clearness 
 and distinctness, as from a finely polished mirror. 
 Twilight, however, gradually veiled these images, 
 but increased the general effect of the landscape, by 
 an air of enchantment, which it communicated to 
 the whole. 
 
 It was just at nightfall when we arrived at the 
 door of the farm house, whence these notes are 
 dated. The name, (horribile dictu^) is too long to 
 be repeated. The cottage is situated at the upper 
 extremity of Loch Achray, just at the mouth of the 
 wild gorge of the Trosachs. James Stuart is the 
 proprietor, whose principal occupation at this sea- 
 son of the year is to entertain travellers ; that is to 
 say, to give them shelter under his roof, and to fur- 
 nish them with guides to the interesting objects in 
 the vicinity. Our entertainment within doors, — so 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 219 
 
 far as the supper was concerned, — consisted of 
 smoaked fish, barley cakes, whiskey, (which was 
 the staple,) ^ad a quantity of milk served up in 
 wooden bowls, with horn spoons. Savoury viands, 
 forsooth ! What added to the comfort of all this was, 
 the perspicacious intellig-ence of the serving maid, 
 whose whole vocabulary of English, was compre- 
 hended in, — ' What's your wull, sir ? — ' Ayc^'' — and^ 
 — ' ni call master.^ 
 
 James Stuart seems to have found his account in 
 his gains from travellers. He has lately built a 
 house adjacent to his private dwelling, wherein he 
 professes to accommodate those who honour him 
 with their company. As this said new house has 
 but one sleeping apartment, it became a question 
 whether Mr. R. or myself should be the occupant. 
 The lot was determined in favour of that gentle- 
 man, and accordingly I repaired to the quondam te- 
 nement. My bed-room is found on inspection, to be 
 hterally on the ground floor, there being not a 
 board, nor a tile, nor a blade of straw, above the 
 bare earth, excepting under the crib in which my 
 bed is placed. Tired as I am, my only hope of 
 rest, is in the opiate of fatigue. ' Norman, heir of 
 Armandave,' doubtless, fared equally well, when 
 the heath was his couch, and the bracken his curtain. 
 
 LOCH LOMOND SIDE, MAY 31 ST. 
 
 After an early breakfast, Mr. R. and my- 
 self, set off from the firm house of Ardkanacroch- 
 kan, to explore more particularly the scenery to 
 
220 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 which the poem of the ' Lady of the Lake' has lent 
 celebrity, and the charm of classic association. 
 
 Taking with us a guide, who was also to act as 
 boatman as occasion might require, we bade adieu to 
 the sweet shores of Achray, 
 
 < Its banks and braes sae bonnie. 
 
 Craigs and water, woods and glen,'- 
 
 and proceeded towards the wild pass of the Tro- 
 sachs. 
 
 The road wound through deep and narrow defiles, 
 hemmed in by steep and precipitous ridges on either 
 side. The mountains which overtopped them, ex- 
 hibited a peculiarly rugged and alpine aspect. 
 Their summits were bleak, sterile, and bald ; — mid- 
 way they were girt with a belt of heath, and furze, 
 and broom ; — and their feet were ' feather'd o'er' 
 with woods of hazel, weeping birch, alder, mountain- 
 ash and oak. 
 
 It was not long before we reached the rugged 
 dell, in which the generous steed of Fitz-James 
 sunk to the earth and expired. Of course, for the 
 residue of om- walk before reaching the lake, we 
 rather had the advantage of the royal pedestrian. 
 For we w^ere fresh, and invigorated by the morning 
 mountain-breeze, and had the whole day before us, 
 and moreover, were enjoying the services of a guide 
 whose frank, guileless countenance was enough to 
 disarm apprehension, and remove all suspicion of 
 his claiming lineage from Murdock, the treacherous 
 'Kern.' Whereas the huntsman, wearied by the 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 221 
 
 lengthened chace, was obliged to thread his way, 
 solitary and alone, through tangled bush and brake, 
 ignorant whither his steps might conduct him, — 
 whether to some friendly shelter, or the haunts of 
 deadly foes, — and ignorant too, whether at every 
 turn, the grim countenance of some savage moun- 
 taineer might not be seen scowling upon his path. 
 
 But without pursuing the parallel between our 
 situation and that of Fitz-James, — it is interesting, to 
 reflect in general, on the wonderful and happy 
 change which, within the memory of many now liv- 
 ing, has been wrought in the characters of the har- 
 dy natives of these wild, and mountain-girt regions. 
 Still does the foaming, dashing torrent, bay hoarse 
 and loud : — still do the surrounding cliffs frown stern- 
 ly as ever : — still in the ' rifted rock,' may the pine 
 tree be seen moored^ and every other feature of the 
 landscape is found marked by a savage correspon- 
 dence. Even the roe, free and untamed, still makes 
 his lair among the adjacent fells. The red deer 
 still strays in quest of covert, and of food, in the dus- 
 ky forest of Glenfinglass, and the gloomy recesses of 
 Craig-Vad : — nor as yet, is the black eagle dislodged 
 from her aerial home in these alpine fastnesses ; the 
 osprey still watches her prey from the projecting 
 cliff that yawns over the watery abyss, and each 
 passmg breeze bears in its bosom, the piercing wild- 
 notes of the bittern and the cormorant. Nature has 
 nowise deviated from her accustomed course ; — she 
 continues to renew her forests, to replenish her 
 
 19* 
 
^22 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 roaring cataracts, and to infuse the self-same in- 
 stincts into the various tribes of animals which peo- 
 ple these rocky retreats. 
 
 Man, alone is changed : and how marvellous is 
 that change ! — Civilization has smoothed his rugged 
 front ; has operated with a kindly, softening influ- 
 ence upon the feelings of his heart, and in place of a 
 fondness for war, and rapine, and scenes of turbu- 
 lence and blood, has taught him to respect the rights 
 of his fellow-man, to banish every rancorous heredi- 
 tary feud, and to seek a peaceful livelihood in some 
 industrious calling, among his native clansmen, and in 
 his own sequestered glen. Civilization, do I say, 
 has produced these happy results ? — Rather, should I 
 have said, religion ; — rehgion, pure, peaceable, and 
 gentle ; — religion, holy and heaven-descended, which 
 begins with transforming the moral man, and then 
 proceeds to ameliorate eifectually his civil condition 
 and circumstances. Hers, is the gentle voice which 
 hushes the angry, tumultuous elements of the human 
 breast, and melts the heart of man to kindness, by 
 pointing his thoughts and his affections to the 
 Heavens. 
 
 But to return to my narrative ; — Continuing our 
 walk within the Trosachs, and having proceeded 
 about a mile, we arrived at an high shaggy emi- 
 nence, which at first sight, seemed to block entirely 
 the pass. Our guide called it ' Roderick Dhu's 
 Look-out :' it being the hill, he said, round which 
 Fitz-James came, when he suddenly discovered the 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 223 
 
 fire which was blazing under a jutting crag, and the 
 tall athletic form of the Gael, stretched by the side 
 of it. The next object described, was Loch Ka- 
 trine, — for which we had been impatiently looking 
 from the time of our entering the Trosachs. Scott's 
 description of its first appearance is strikingly just : — 
 
 A narrow inlet still and deep 
 Affording scarce such breadth of brim 
 As served the wild ducVs brood to swim. 
 
 It in fact appears at this point, like a little pool in 
 the hollow of the hills ; — but presently as we pro- 
 ceeded, it enlarged its basin, and stretched into a 
 lengthening expanse. Not a ripple was playing up- 
 on its surface ; — and the breath of air that was stir- 
 ring, scarcely waved a leaf of the aspen, which dip- 
 ped its pendulous boughs into the waters of the 
 lake. 
 
 The guide directed our attention to a ridge on our 
 right, which was the same he informed us, along 
 which the knight of Snowdon clambered, when he 
 caught the first view of Katrine, and broke out into 
 that inimitable exclamation, beginning with, 
 
 And what a scene were here, he cried 
 For princely pomp or churchman's pride. — 
 
 It was on this same height that Mar and Moray, paus- 
 ed with their troops, whilst the spearman swam over 
 to cut a boat from the shore of the Isle, and bring it 
 to mainland. At least so would the poet have 
 
224 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 us believe ; and such was the faithful echo of the 
 guide. 
 
 The latter spoke of objects and things which pre- 
 sented themselves on our route as real scenes of the 
 different transactions recorded in the Ladj of the 
 Lake ; — nor from what we could learn, (and for the 
 sake of the amusement we plied him with questions 
 enough) — did he entertain the most distant suspicion 
 that the incidents described in that poem were any 
 thing less than sober, actual facts. There was one 
 piece of information, however, which he gave us, 
 which was interesting on another ground, than a 
 fictitious locality. Leading the Trosachs we passed 
 a deep ravine enclosed with precipitous crags, in 
 which, we were told, the clan Gregor were formerly 
 in the habit of secreting the flocks and herds which 
 they had plundered in their lowland forays. It is 
 thence at this day, denominated in familiar language, 
 that is to say, in plain English, the prison ; and it has 
 another appellation in Gaelic, which I now cannot 
 recal. 
 
 Near the lower extremity of the lake, where we 
 first came down upon it, there is a rude pier con- 
 structed, which extends for a considerable way under 
 the brae, that here shelves abruptly to the water's 
 edge. Two boats were moored along side this pier, 
 into the better of which we made preparations to 
 embark. Bui, alas ! it was no ' light shallop ;' and 
 we doubted much whether the wizard wand of any 
 poetic necromancer was capable of transforming it 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 225 
 
 into one. Surely, thought we, if Ellen's skiif, or 
 even the barge of Roderick, were no better than 
 this, Charon's would have furnished a more graceful 
 model, and withal, might have boasted a decided su- 
 periority in point of trim. 
 
 Leaving the guide, — now, however, metamorphos- 
 ed into a waterman, — to bail out the boat, we climb- 
 ed an eminence which overhung the lake, and took 
 a bird^s-eye view of the surrounding scenery. This 
 done, we embarked, and after saiUng about a quarter 
 of a mile, and turning an abrupt promontory, the 
 lake opened upon us in all its beauty and magnifi- 
 cence. From the point then viewed, it appeared 
 about six or seven miles in length, and varymg from 
 one and an half, to two and an half in breadth. We 
 did not, however, see it in its entire extent. Of the 
 objects which environed the lake, Ben Venue was 
 the most prominent. This was seen on our left, 
 rearing its shaggy colossal form to a stupendous 
 height. It is a very picturesque mountain. Its slop- 
 ing ridges were covered with the trembling poplar, 
 birch, and mountain-ash ; and its skirts were rich in 
 pastures. A nearer view discovered the scars and 
 furrows, which a thousand tempests have traced on 
 its weather-beaten brow, — and the wild confusion of 
 the huge masses of rock which were piled along its 
 northern shoulder. 
 
 We were landed first at the foot of this mountain, 
 and conducted to Coir-nan-Uriskin, or the Goblin's 
 cave, situated about two hundred yards from the 
 
226 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 lake. It is nothing more than a gentle hollow, oi» 
 indentation on the side of Ben Venue. It is finely 
 embosomed with trees, and very romantic ; but why 
 it should be called a cave, I know not, except from 
 the popular tradition that the Urisks, a species of 
 demi-semi preternatural beings, answering some- 
 what to the brownies of England, used regularly to 
 convene in this place on all solemn occasions, and a 
 cave was naturally thought to be the most appro- 
 priate name for such a spot. 
 
 These urisks, according to ancient superstition, 
 were very expert with implements of husbandry, 
 and were capable of being won over to perform the 
 servile labours and drudgery of a farm. Their 
 brawny shoulders and ' hairy strength,' being found 
 of great use to the peasant: it was common, no long 
 time ago, for each highland family to retain one of 
 this order in its service. If report speaks true, the 
 custom has not yet altogether fallen in desuetude ;— 
 but it seems that the Urisks, who possess a due 
 share of native peevishness, have become, at length 
 greatly soured and disaffected, in consequence of 
 certain returns of ingratitude which they have ex- 
 perienced. One of them in particular, it is said, has 
 taken great umbrage. He was attached to a small 
 farm, a mile or two distant from Ben-venue, and had 
 performed very faithfully for a series of years, 
 the drudgery imposed upon him. Such was his 
 strength 
 
AJNTD THE GRAMPIANS. 22^7 
 
 That in one night ere glimpse of morn, 
 His shadowy flail could thresh the corn 
 Which ten day-labourers could not end,* — 
 
 His only compensation for all this, was a bowl of 
 cream and an oaton cake, (saving indeed occasion- 
 ally, a maud, or plaid, if it chanced to be cold,) sup- 
 plies, however, which were punctually expected, 
 per noctem, — and these, he as regularly despatched, 
 
 Ere the first cock his matin sung. 
 
 It SO happened that on one night he was neglected 
 in these courtesies. He nevertheless, very mag- 
 nanimously performed his task, but was heard at 
 peep of dawn, to utter a wild and piercing cry, and 
 took his departure never more to return. 
 
 It is shrewdly suspected that the disgust thus 
 occasioned is fast spreading itself throughout the 
 tribe ; as it is agreed on all hands, that these 
 Urisks now-a-days, seldom visit the habitations 
 of men, or condescend to enlist themselves in 
 their service. This is the more lamentable, just 
 now, as the attention of the hardy Gael, is be- 
 ginning to be turned particularly to the culture of 
 his native soil : — and the plodding, painstaking indus- 
 try of these fellow-helpers of his fathers would be 
 found to be of great utility. — The only remedy which 
 the existing exigency seems to sugge; t, —though 
 what the wisdom of another generation may devise, 
 
 * Milton's L'Allegro. 
 
228 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 it is difficult to conjecture, — is, the speedy formatioa 
 of some half dozen or more, agricultural societies, — 
 the adoption of the valuable hints on the subject of 
 practical husbandry, furnished by sir Humphry Davy, 
 and above all, — the imitating the sturdy habits of the 
 Green Mountain boys of New-England, who depend- 
 ing on no other supernatural aid than the blessing of 
 the God of nature, have braced their sinews, and 
 girded their iron frames to the work of reclaiming 
 and subjugating the soil, and have at length fairly 
 succeeded in forcing it to yield them subsistence, and 
 competency, and independence. 
 
 What we had seen ot Coir-nan-Urisken, so far 
 satisfied us, that we declined a proposal from our 
 guide to visit Bealanambo, another cave situated a 
 small distance off, upon the southern acclivity of 
 Ben-venue, which he represented as remarkable, 
 for various unearthly wonders, which 1 am at pre- 
 sent, unable to recollect. 
 
 The boat was accordingly again shoved from the 
 strand, and we proceeded to Roderick's Island. We 
 landed upon the very beach whence the gentle 
 Ellen put off her ' fairy frigate,' at the sound of 
 Fitz-James' horn. — Ail was still and lone. — No Al- 
 lan-bane greeted us with his mmstreisy : — no fair 
 damsel bent upon us a look of courteous salutation : 
 — no vassal awaited our landing with a protfer of the 
 hospitalities of ' highland hall,' and we even listened 
 in vain for the whimpering cry of the ' vex'd span- 
 iel.' There was one object indeed, which deter- 
 
ANB THE GRAMPIANS 229 
 
 mined the identity of the domain, with that of the 
 fair Ellen. It was 
 
 -the aged oak 
 
 Which slanted from the islet rock ; — 
 
 And this seemed to wave its venerable branches in 
 token of amity, and the br eeze which sighed through 
 them we thought whispere d a welcome. 
 
 The island rises with a bold bank from the water, 
 and swells into a gentle knoll crowning the centre. 
 It is covered with woods of a beautiful, native 
 growth, and several varieties of flowering shrubs. 
 Among the smaller plants and flowerets which we 
 noticed, were the fox-glove, honey-suckle, daisy, 
 primrose, and enchanter's night shade. 
 
 We soon completed the survey of the Island, but 
 it was long, very long, before we were willing to 
 take leave of it. I was fortunate in having with me 
 a copy of the Lady of the Lake, which I procured, 
 the morning I left Edinburgh, expressly for the pur- 
 pose of consulting it, and referring to the descriptions 
 of the author, on each remarkable spot. We have 
 had occassion frequently to resort to its pages, since 
 leaving Stirling, and have experienced great satisfac- 
 tion in tracing a striking resemblance between natu- 
 ral objects around us, and the delineations of the 
 poet. Making allowance for some few licences and 
 aberrations, the latter are drawn with a fidelity 
 which we could not but admire. ■ hey are strictly 
 graphic, and true to the very letter. 
 
 20 
 
mo TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 Deeming it needful to carry away with us, some 
 vouchers of our visit to this fairy isle, we picked up 
 a few pebbles from the beach, plucked several 
 sprigs of mountain ash, and gathered a few leaves of 
 the foxglove, together with specimens of such wild- 
 flowers as we found in blossom. These spoils we 
 bore off with a throb of mingled pleasure and pride ; 
 and in the sense of possession, experienced doubtless 
 as much heart-felt satisfaction as many a Midas re- 
 ceives in contemplating his hoarded stores, or a vic- 
 tor his hard-earned bays. 
 
 Once more we betook ourselves to the boat, and 
 sailed to the opposite shore, where we ascended an 
 high bluff headland, which is said to command the 
 finest view of the lake, and the surrounding scenery. 
 The prospect thence, was truly magnificent ; but 
 to enumerate, or by any description, however labour- 
 ed, to give a just conception of its features, is utterly 
 impracticable. The effect to be properly under- 
 stood, requires that the whole should be seen. 1 
 will merely add a remark therefore, on the subject 
 of the general cast of the landscape. It is, that there 
 is less of softness, and more of a savage majesty in the 
 scene, than I had thought to find. Excepting the 
 skirts of Ben-venue, the point of Brianchoil, (where- 
 on is a fine farm,) and here and there a shorn glade, 
 or an enclosed patch of meadow, the lands immediate- 
 ly bordering upon the lake, are in a state of primi- 
 tive wildness. This wildness requires to be re- 
 lieved by a greater proportion of cultivated soil, by 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 231 
 
 more of fruitful fields and green pastures, to make 
 the whole landscape completely beautiful, as well 
 as grand. 
 
 The quantity of wood-land which appeared on 
 every side, surprised us not a little. Much of the 
 wood, moreover, was of a vigorous and healthy 
 growth. In general it is not of the best quality, it is 
 true, but then there is enough, of it, and at a very 
 low price too. The peasantry and shepherds em- 
 ploy it almost exclusively for fuel, which is a suffi- 
 cient evidence of its abundance, as the neighbour- 
 hood furnishes tracts of the finest peat* mosses. 
 
 A sail of an half mile further, brought us to a 
 beach of almost milk white appearance, occasioned 
 by the singular beauty and clearness of the quartz 
 pebbles which cover it. It is denominated the ' sil- 
 ver strand,' and also, indifferently, the Beach of In- 
 terview. 
 
 From this point we took our departure for the 
 head of the lake ; and bore up slowly towards Glen- 
 gyle. The sun never shone with greater splendour 
 upon Loch Katrine ; and every object around, appear- 
 
 * The writer of these sketches, as he penetrated father north 
 into the highlands, witnessed in several districts, a still great- 
 er abundance of wood ; — especially in Lorn and Appin. Be- 
 tween fort Augustus, and Inverness, he passed through two or 
 three forests of several miles extent. The trees were chiefly ash 
 birch, alder, holly, and trembling-poplar. This was the morf- 
 observable, as Scotland is noted for its scarcity of forest or woocf.- 
 ;ands. 
 
m2 TOUR TO LOCH KATRIJN'E 
 
 ed to fine advantage. The lake itself was literally of 
 a glassy smoothness ; and gave back, with wonderful 
 distinctness, the images of the surrounding scenes. 
 
 From the pier where we first entered the boat, to 
 the place of final debarkation, at the upper extremi- 
 ty of Katrine, is a distance of ten miles. Having 
 completed the cruise, we seated ourselves upon a 
 grassy bank, and examined the contents of our store- 
 basket. It furnished but an indifferent meal, being pro- 
 vided simply with such homely fare as the farm-house 
 at Achray had afforded. But exercise, and the keen 
 alpine air, which we had been inhaling, gave to the 
 food a zest which is often looked for, in vain, in 
 costlier viands ; — and on the whole, we had reason to 
 think more favourably of the solid comforts of Ar- 
 Itenacrohkan, than we were disposed to do on the 
 evening previous. 
 
 Before leaving the romantic shores of Loch 
 Katrine, we cast a lingering look upon the enchant- 
 ing beauties of the scene, and waving farewell to 
 them, pursued our journey on foot over the moors 
 and heaths to Loch Lomond, distant five miles. Our 
 boatman, of whose amphibious capacity, I believe 
 I have already made some mention, contin ued with 
 us through the walk, being transformed into a porter, 
 as well as cicerone. The tract of country on which 
 we entered, was exceedingly wild and rugged. 
 Scarcely a footpath led through it, and this at times 
 almost deserted us ; so much so at least, that it was 
 very difficult to trace its direction. We passed 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 233 
 
 Loch Arklet, an expanse of water a mile or two ia 
 length, enclosed amidst rocks and heaths. Its waters 
 appeared of an inky blackness, and every thing 
 around was sterile and dreary. 
 
 A mile from Loch Lomond we came to Inversnaid, 
 a ruinous fort that rose unexpectedly upon us, from 
 amidst the surrounding desolation, like Tadmor in 
 the desert. This fort was built for the purpose of 
 protecting the bordering country, and those unwary 
 travellers who were obliged to pass this way, against 
 the depredations and outrages of gangs of free- 
 booters, who formerly infested the district. Until 
 within forty years, a small garrison was kept here ; 
 but the need of a military surveillance no longer 
 existing, the post was abandoned and the barracks 
 have been suffered to go to decay. One wing, 
 however, of the crumbling pile, still gives shelter to 
 some poor family, who have attempted to arrest the 
 ravages which time and the elements were fast 
 making upon it, — and who dwell there in humble, 
 and doubtless, contented obscurity. 
 
 The fort is chieflv memorable for its having been 
 assigned as a station to the celebrated General Wolfe, 
 when a subaltern. In chasing, and engaging with 
 the highland marauder, among the neighbouring- 
 defiles and fastnesses, he had to contend with a foe 
 little less cruel, vindictive or insidious, than the 
 North American Indian, whom he was subsequcnth'^ 
 obhged to encounter. In those youthful days, even 
 when hope beat highest, he hardly looked forward 
 20 * 
 
234 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 to the brilliant though arduous career of action 
 which he was destined to run ; and little did he 
 foresee the laurels, which at some future day, he 
 was to gather upon the snows of Canada, and still 
 less that illustrious wreath, — steeped indeed in his 
 dying blood, — which victory was to entwine around 
 his brow upon the heights of Abraham. 
 
 Curiosity and fatigue induced us to stop in the 
 course of the walk, at a miserable cabin, where we 
 were received very hospitably by the gude woman, 
 who set before us cheese, barley-cakes, and milk. 
 The room into which we were introduced was 
 evidently the better of the two which the hut- 
 contained. A fire-place was rudely constructed in 
 one corner, in which a small fire was burning. 
 The smoke after being conducted about three feet 
 above the grate by a narrow chimney, or more 
 properly, a sort of tunnel, was there left to itself, 
 and of course obliged to find its way out as well as 
 it could, through a hole in the thatch of the cabin 
 above. The consequence was, that a great part of 
 it preferred remaining behind to taking that trouble ; 
 and the room, which was scarcely nine feet square, 
 was so filled, that for some time we were unable to 
 see across it ; and vv^e found still greater difficulty in 
 our attempts at respiration. The dame, however, 
 with her two or three chubby, sooty-faced children, 
 did not seem to notice the evil, or experience the 
 slightest inconvenience from it, and surprise was 
 expressed on our remarking upon it. 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 285 
 
 The first view of Loch Lomond was noble. The 
 spot from which we obtained it, was very elevated, 
 and we paused some time to enjoy the spectacle. 
 So much of the lake as could be discerned from that 
 position, was hemmed in by towering masses of 
 rocks and mountains, which presented a sublime 
 contrast to the lovely repose of the waters beneath. 
 The sun was just sinking behind their loftier ridges, 
 and poured a parting flood of radiance along the 
 surface of the Loch. We descended with great 
 difficulty to the shore ; — the path being exceedingly 
 bad, and the declivity precipitous and abrupt. 
 
 'Twas oft so steep, the foot was fain 
 Assistance from the hand to gain. 
 
 The boat was on the other side of Loch Lomond, 
 and our patience was put in requisition until it 
 should return. A fire was kindled on the beach as 
 a signal ; — but I was so excessively tired, that during 
 the interval 1 stretched myself upon one of the 
 rocks which overhung the water's edge, and obtain- 
 ed a very comfortable nap. The small surge which 
 feebly broke at the foot of my flmty couch, added 
 to the murmur of a neighbouring waterfall, sung my 
 lullaby. 
 
 Just before entering the boat, which was an half 
 hour afterwards, I had the curiosity to examine the 
 interior of our ferry-man's house. And here, in- 
 stead of the small part of a chimney which we saw 
 
236 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 in the cabin which we had visited on the way, there 
 was not the slightest pretension to one. The fire, — 
 what little there was, — was built upon a broad, 
 rough stone, and two or three unhewn rocks were 
 placed behind it to serve as supports to the fuel. 
 The smoke, therefore, was literally left to shift for 
 itself; and it found its way to every crack and 
 crevice, (and they were many,) of the miserable 
 apartment. Mr. R. and myself were almost choked 
 by it.* 
 
 * This hut was by no means an unfavourable specimen of 
 the habitations of the highland peasantry in general. Prompted 
 often by curiosity, and sometimes constrained for the sake of 
 shelter, I visited numbers of them in the course of my highland 
 tour : and not a few were decidedly worse than the wretched 
 tenement on Loch Lomond side, which is mentioned above. 
 It was not uncommon to find a dwelling constructed merely of 
 mud, — in other words, of banks of turf sods, the grassy sides of 
 which, being turned without, gave to these comfortless abodes 
 the appearance, a little way off, of artificial knolls of earth, 
 resembling barrows, or sepulchral tumuli. 
 
 I have since visited the settlement of a tribe of Indians in 
 my own country, and my personal observation enables me to 
 assert with literal accuracy, that the ivigwams of these red 
 men of the forest are at least equal, if not superior in comfort 
 and accommodation to the cabins of the poorer Scottish high- 
 landers. The wigwam of the North-American Indian is, in 
 winter, a square building of convenient size, constructed of 
 logs and other heavy timber, covered within with intertwisted 
 branches of trees ; and his summer residence is a smaller struc- 
 ture of a conical form, lightly built, with bark and slender 
 rafters of wood ; — and each, in every respect, is far preferable to 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 237 
 
 We were not long in crossing the lake, and landed 
 at a small quay near Tarbert, where a servant was 
 waiting to attend us to a small, but very neat and 
 comi'ortable inn. 
 
 June 1st. — This morning, the landlord of the inn 
 entered my chamber to point my attention to some 
 stanzas which many years ago were inscribed on a 
 pane of glass in one of the windows which look 
 toward Ben Lomond. The subject was the ascent 
 of that mountain, and the verses I found executed in 
 a somewhat better taste than the drivehng couplets 
 
 the sheeling of any highland shepherd between the Grampians 
 and the Moray Frith. The Indian moreover, in his diet, has 
 manifestly the superiority over the Scotch mountaineer. He 
 subsists upon the best game of the forest, as well as on the 
 treasures which he draws from the sea and the sands; and at 
 night, he reposes upon a couch as good at least, as that of any 
 cottager in the North Highlands. For in place of a bed of 
 heath and a plaid covering, he wraps himself in his warm 
 blanket, and lies down upon branches of fir, and spruce, and 
 hemlock. It is true, that saH:upe, squair^ and pappouse all 
 chum together ; but they form a company somewhat more 
 homogeneous than a domestic clan of piy,s, and poultry, and 
 sheep, and dogs, and bairns^ with the good man and wife in the 
 centre, which are often actually found at one and the same time, 
 strewn over the ground-floor of a highland cabin. 
 
 It is deemed no disparagement to add, that in point of general 
 civilization, the remoter North Highlander may be ranked on 
 the same footing with the Calmuck Tartar and the aboriginal 
 Indians of the United States. From this remark the Clan 
 Alpine Gael, or the native of the Southern Grampian ridge, is 
 of course, meant to be excluded. Some observations have been 
 offered above ou the subject of his charaqter. 
 
238 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 and rhymings which it is usual to see scratched on 
 the windows and wainscoatings of taverns generally. 
 The writer, it appears, having ascended Ben Lo- 
 mond, was desirous that future travellers should be 
 benefited by his experience. The advice is offered 
 with much modesty and a tone of playful sincerity, 
 and is really expressed in very gentlemanly and ap- 
 propriate diction. The poem begins with, — 
 
 Stranger, if o'er this pane of glass perchance 
 Thy roving eye should cast a casual glance ; 
 If taste for grandeur and the dread sublime 
 Prompt thee Ben Lomond's fearful height to climb, 
 Here stop attentive, nor with scorn refuse 
 The fr;endly rhymings of a tavern muse. 
 
 After this conciliatory exordium, and some further 
 periphrasis, the poet proceeds to the main subject of 
 his epic, and this he keeps in view with true Home- 
 ric unity until the close. 
 
 Trust not at first a quick advent'rous pace, 
 Six miles its top points gradual from its base. 
 Up the high rise with panting haste i passed 
 And gain'd the long laborious steep at last. 
 More prudent you., when once you pass the deep. 
 With cautious steps and slow ascend the steep. 
 
 A piece of advice which follows, must approve it- 
 self to the taste of every way-worn traveller. 
 
 Oh ! stop a while and taste the cordial drop. 
 And rest. Oh ! rest, long, long upon the topj— 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 239 
 
 The lameness of the latter of these lines is amply 
 redeemed by two or three couplets which occur 
 shortly after, descriptive of the relative position and 
 aspect of Ben Lomond. 
 
 Enormous groups ! while Ben, Avho often shrouds 
 His lofty summit in a veil of clouds, 
 Frowns o'er the rest exulting in his state, 
 In proud pre-eminence sublimely great. 
 
 The whole of this curious performance concludes 
 with the lines, 
 
 All this and more thou shalt with wonder see, 
 And own a faithful monitor in me. 
 
 The above verses are subscribed, " Thomas Rus- 
 sell, Oct. 3d, 1771." — Beneath this is written, 'Alas, 
 poor Russell! A. C. 1777;' — and then in another 
 hand, ' He died soon after.' 
 
 This is Sunday ; but there being no place of pub- 
 lic worship at Tarbert, Mr. R. and myself concluded 
 that the day could not be spent better than in con- 
 templating the sublime scenery around us, the 
 workmanship of nature, or rather of nature's Archi- 
 tect. Accordingly we ordered a boat, and sailed 
 down the lake with an intention of visiting some of 
 the islands which crowd its southern expanse. The 
 uncommon clearness of the weather, — there being 
 not a cloud to be seen in the heavens, — showed Ben 
 Lomond to the finest advantage. I observed my 
 friend attentively surveying the distinctly-defined 
 
240 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 outline of the mountain, occasionally measuring with 
 his eye the distance between the base and the sum- 
 mit, and now and then, casting- a wistful glance at its 
 topmost peak, — and I anticipated a proposal which I 
 saw he was more than half-disposed to make, that 
 we should land on the eastern shore of the lake, and 
 scale the acclivities of this king of the Grampians. 
 After a little deliberation, we decided that we would 
 undertake the ascent of the mountain, and accord- 
 ingly we altered our course and had the boat put up 
 for Rowardenan. 
 
 Arriving there, we found a company gathering 
 upon a green near the public house, for the purpose 
 of attending divine service. We mingled with the 
 group and waited to hear the preacher's exhortation. 
 He was of the itinerant class, — and had not a little 
 of that canting, whining tone of voice, which in New 
 England is sometimes denominated a puritanic twang — 
 and which in this country is a very common distinc- 
 tion, as well of the modern disciples of John Knox 
 as the fanatical followers of Richard Cameron. In 
 the appearance and manner of the preacher, there 
 was nothing indeed, prepossessing ; but we were 
 willing to listen for another object than that of idle 
 cavil and criticism. It is the very furthest from my 
 thought on such an occasion, to indulge in any vSpe- 
 cies of levity. I cannot, and I wish not to divest 
 myself of the conviction, that I stand in the same 
 high and solemn relations to God and futurity, as do 
 ttiy fellow-worshippers around me, — I mean, as re- 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 241 
 
 spects my guiltiness, and by consequence, my un- 
 worthiness of those messages and overtures of love 
 which ' The same Lord, who is God over all,' vouch- 
 safes unto men. I feel that one and the same sup- 
 plication must ascend from my heart as from theirs ; 
 that the incense of the same united prayers must 
 rise from a common censer before the throne of the 
 Eternal ; — and cherishing this conviction, many a 
 time and oft has my heart been warmed with a glow 
 of sympathetic feeling, my mind has been i^e freshed 
 with salutary instructions, my soul quickened with 
 holy fervours. At such seasons, the preacher, 
 per 56, I very little regard : — it is enough for me that 
 he manifests a love for souls — that he is truly desi- 
 rous that his instructions be accompanied with the 
 demonstration of the spirit and of power, and, withal, 
 that he cherishes some scanty modicum of charity 
 for those, who beg leave to dissent from the meta- 
 physical subtleties which may be set forth in his 
 own party creed. 
 
 I must confess, however, that I have never yet 
 met with those prodigies of preachers in distant and 
 sequestered tracts of country which it is the happi- 
 ness of some tourists to find without searching wher- 
 ever they chance to travel. So flir as my own ob- 
 servation goes, I am strongly inclined to suspect that 
 very few have caught the mantle of James Waddel. 
 At any rate, his kindred are far from being numerous 
 in the glens of Scotland, and it was very evident that 
 the preacher whom we heard to-day, was attached 
 
 21 
 
.242 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 to some other fraternity. To say truth, he wfis 
 very ordinary in his line ; but yet as he manifested 
 much of a tender, affectionate soUcitude for the spi- 
 ritual welfare of those whom he addressed, there 
 was reason to hope that the water of life which 
 flowed from the text which he smote, found its way 
 into more than one thirsty and drooping soul. 
 
 Under the conduct of a guide, who was also fur- 
 nished with our store of refreshments, we next com- 
 menced the ascent of the mountain. To recount 
 our many tedious steps, would be a task for which I 
 have neither leisure nor inclination. It is sufficient 
 to say, that after a toilsome climbing of three 
 hours and an half, we at length arrived at the sum- 
 mit, and enjoyed the noblest prospect of which Ca- 
 ledonia can boast. Whilst ascending, indeed, the 
 mountain, we had stopped several times to contem- 
 plate the rich and varied scenery which spread it- 
 self at our feet ; — and it was singular to mark the 
 gradual enlargement of the field of vision, and the 
 new aspects which objects and things from time to 
 time assumed. But after all we were but little pre- 
 pared for the extent and grandeur of the view 
 which we obtained from the top. 
 
 With feelings of wonder we surveyed the stupen- 
 dous outline of mountains which undulated along the 
 horizon from the commencement of the Ochill hills 
 in the east, to Ben More on the north, and Crua- 
 chan and Ben Nevis on the w^est. In this magnifi- 
 cent chain were descried Ben VoirUch, Ben Har- 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 243 
 
 row and Ben Lawers, and more westerly, the Paps 
 of Jura, besides many lesser heights. Lookmg 
 over the tops of these numerous mountains, the 
 whole appeared like so many waves of the sea 
 arrested, just at the moment of culminating at their 
 fullest height ; — and their bald, craggy peaks an- 
 swered well to the crested foam of towering, 
 raging billows. In the hollows of the nearer 
 mountains, we beheld verdant glens, and the glit- 
 tering surfaces of the Perthshire lakes ; — and the 
 eye, roving far to the southward, expatiated with 
 delight on the rich plains of Stirlingshire and the 
 Lothians, the soft vales of Renfrew, with the Frith 
 of Clyde meandering through them, and in distant 
 prospect, the city of Glasgow and the Rock and 
 Castle of Dumbarton. 
 
 Ben Lomond itself presents a very remarkable as- 
 pect. To the south it stretches into gentle and easy 
 slopes; but the north side exhibits a perpendicular 
 face of rock, 1800 feet in height. The mountain 
 seems on this side, anciently to have undergone 
 some mighty disruption ; — huge fragments ar6 
 strewn in the wildest disorder at its base, and the 
 appearance of things is the same as might be ima- 
 gined to take place, provided some terrible earth- 
 quake had cleft and disintegrated the northern 
 shoulder, and scattered the broken masses confused- 
 ly over the plain below. It is remarkable that Ben 
 Ledi and Ben Venue, present each a similar aspect; 
 and the accurate Dr. Graham of Aberfoyle, testifies 
 
244 TOUR TO LOCH KATRIJVE 
 
 from his own personal observation, that the same 
 thing holds true of Ben Voirlich in Perthshire, 
 Goatiieid in Arran, and the loftier momitains in 
 CowaL Reserving for geologists the explanation 
 and solution of these phenomena, I merely add, as 
 respects the mineralogical structure of the moun- 
 tain, that the rock consists chiefly of greenstone, in- 
 termixed with masses of quartz, and plenty of wav- 
 ing schistus. 
 
 To recur to the subject of prospect ; — the finest 
 object perhaps in the whole circuit of landscape as 
 ^een from Ben Lomond, is the Loch of that name, 
 which is spread out in magnificent relief, in all its 
 length and breadth, bathing the skirts of the moun- 
 tain, and extending for thirty miles from the hills of 
 Arroquhar to the water of Leven at its outlet. It 
 is the noblest lake in Great Britain, and fairly chal- 
 lenges a tribute of admiration from every lover of 
 the picturesque and grand in scenery. The shores 
 of this lake present a remarkable union of the cha- 
 racteristics of the Highland and Lowland landscape. 
 The country bordering upon its lower extremity is 
 in general level, but very fertile, and in the high- 
 est state of cultivation. Distance softened the tints 
 which embellished it, and gave them a peculiar de- 
 licacy, and, if I may so speak, an harmony of co- 
 louring, which was lovely beyond expression. The 
 upper part of the lake is encompassed with the 
 tall, rugged hills of Arroquhar, already mentioned, 
 — which are grouped closely together, and hang 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 245 
 
 v^ith a lowering, menacing aspect over its waters, 
 as though interdicting its further ingress into the 
 territories of the Celt. 
 
 Seen from Ben Lomond, this section of the Loch 
 bears a strong resemblance to the river Hudson, 
 among the highlands, a little below Newburgh. 
 The Hudson, however, is not so broad as the lake, 
 nor are the New York highlands so lofty as the 
 mountainous ridge of Arroquhar. From Rowarden- 
 nan, the Loch begins to widen very materially, and 
 between the pass of Bealmaha and the Boat of Bal- 
 lock, on the opposite shores at its southern termina- 
 tion, it is very nearly ten miles in breadth. Its sur- 
 f\ice there is sprinkled with islands of the most ro- 
 mantic beauty. 
 
 Several of these islands are inhabited ; — others, 
 are the privileged ranges of the deer, having only 
 hunting-lodges upon them, tenanted by the foresters 
 of their respective proprietors. Our guide pointed 
 our attention to Inch Cailliach, which formerly was 
 the burial place of the Macgregors, and which the 
 inhabitants of the parish of Buchanan still use for 
 the same purpose. Tiie yew trees which shade the 
 cemeteries of Clan Aipine, were dwindled by dis- 
 tance to the size of shrubs and coppice wood.-— • 
 There was something* peculiarly enchanting in the 
 appearance of this cluster of islands. They seemed 
 to (ioat in the golden radiance which burnished the 
 still wMters around them, and called up the imageis 
 
 21 * 
 
246 TOUR TO LOCH KATlUNfi 
 
 which my youthful fancy had sketched, of the fa- 
 bled isles of the blest. 
 
 Before beginning the descent of the mountain we 
 examined the few plants which are met with near 
 the summit, or rather satisfied ourselves that there 
 were none of any consequence to be examined. 
 We saw merely the Rhodiola rosea on the brow of 
 several rocks, and the hardy sibbaldia procumbens, 
 vegetating in the bleakest possible positions. Lower 
 down, we found a profusion of the rubiis chamoemo- 
 rus, a diecious plant, of the bramble species, bear- 
 ing a very palatable fruit which ripens about the 
 middle of July. — Botanists speak of the different ha- 
 bits which the same plant assumes, when growing in 
 vallies or upon the tops of mountains. Such chan- 
 ges undoubtedly take place, but Ben Lomond is 
 scarcely Alpine enough to make any material trans- 
 formation of the nature supposed. At least this is 
 my impression, and it is founded upon the little that 
 1 witnessed of the alchemilla and one or two other 
 vegetables which, though natives of the plain, are 
 seen growing spontaneously upon the sides of Ben 
 Lomond, with aspects which it would require an 
 eye more practised than mine to distinguish from 
 those of the same species in the lower regions. On 
 the skirts of the mountain and along the margin of 
 the Loch, we saw several varieties of the Crj^pto- 
 gamia class, — among them the royal flowering fern, a 
 very pretty plant. 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 247 
 
 Ben Lomond answers a more important end than 
 merely administering food to the natural historian, 
 or gratifying the taste of the lover of sublime sce- 
 nery. To the inhabitants of the adjacent vallies, it 
 serves as a barometer, and a very good one it proves. 
 Whenever the air is highly transparent, and the 
 mountain looms on the eye, and is seemingly magni- 
 fied in its dimensions, rain is confidently predicted. 
 On the contrary, when the atmosphere is hazy and 
 the form and outline of the mountain are but dimly 
 perceptible, appearing at a greater distance than 
 usual, it is common to anticipate fair weather. It 
 were to be wished that some such mountain were 
 in yankee land, in order to save the meteorological 
 calculations of a certain class of almanac seers, who 
 are wont to fill up the blank spaces in the calendar 
 of each month by gravely assuring the public that 
 ' they may expect a considerable spell of weather 
 about this time.' 
 
 I omitted to mention that our path up the moun- 
 tain led us over several patches of ice and snow. 
 Near the summit, we crossed some banks of very 
 considerable depth, and our guide informed us that 
 it was rare that these glacial streaks disappeared 
 wholly before the summer solstice. From the plain, 
 however, they are scarcely, if at all, discernible at 
 present ; the snows which remain, being chiefly 
 imbedded under overhanging ledges of rocks. The 
 top of the mountain, I should add, we found dry ; 
 the thin soil which was spread over it was slightly 
 
24S TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE 
 
 tinned with the green of a few blades of short grass, 
 as well as of the leaf of the Sibbaldia, which has 
 been mentioned before. 
 
 The descent of the mountain was very wearying, 
 although accomphshed in much less time than we had 
 employed in climbing it. There were two or three 
 springs to which the guide had before conducted us, 
 which we found it very convenient to revisit in our 
 return. Mingbng the '• cordial drop' with the chrj'^s- 
 tai water which bubbled from them, we succeeded 
 with the aid of the little stock of provisions which 
 we had taken with us, in repairing from time to time 
 the partial exhaustion of our strength and spirits. 
 We completed the laborious descent in season to en- 
 joy, at the inn of Rowardennan, a dinner which we 
 had ordered to be in readiness against our return, — 
 and to embark for the opposite shore of the lake, 
 just as the last beams of the sun were gilding the 
 peaks of the surrounding mountains. 
 
 We entered the boat with a throb of self gratu- 
 lation in having accomplished what we were willing 
 to consider, an undertaking of no small magnitude, 
 — the toilsome ascent of Ben Lomond. But our 
 complacency was soon damped, and the whole ex- 
 ploit sadly cheapened in our estimation by the wag- 
 srishness of our chief ferrvman. 
 
 One of us asked him, ' if he had ever beea to the 
 top x>f Ben Lomond V 
 
 ' No, sir,' said he archly. 
 
AND THE GRAMPIANS. 249 
 
 ' What not been to the top of Ben Lomond V — we 
 both inquired, affecting a tone of much surprise. 
 
 ' No, gentlemen,' he replied ; ' but I have climb- 
 ed many a mountain which 1 think much higher. I 
 dare say that to you English travellers Ben Lomond 
 may appear very well ; but take my word for it, he is 
 one of the lightest fellows we have about here, — we 
 think nothing of him.'^ 
 
 ' And pray, where are those fine mountains which 
 you speak of?' 
 
 ' Why, look you yonder,' he rejoined, ' there are 
 Ben Voirlich, and Benglo, and Bemwore, and further 
 up, as you go to Fort William, you may see Ben 
 Nevis, to say nothing of others. Why, sirs,' he add- 
 ed, •• Ben Lomond is a mere baby compared with 
 them.'' 
 
 We could not however but think him rather big 
 for a baby ; — he promises well at least. It so happen- 
 ed, that during this conversation, we were sailing 
 under the shadow of the mountain, — and from the 
 point in which we were viewing it, it appeared to 
 the finest advantage, towering majestically from the 
 water's edge, and piercing the very clouds. 
 
 The engagements of Mr. R***** admitting no lon- 
 ger of his delaying his return to England, he had 
 come to a determination of proceeding this evening 
 to Luss, in order to take a conveyance the following 
 morning, and commence his homeward route. Ac- 
 cordingly we sailed to a point of land at a convenient 
 distance from the village of Luss, where exchanging 
 
250 TOUR TO LOCH KATRINE, &c. 
 
 the parting salutation of hon voyage^ we took leave 
 of one another, — deeply to my regret. I returned 
 in the boat to Tarbert, and have since made arrange- 
 ments to proceed on the morrow to Inverary, the 
 capital of the west highlands. Thence after a short 
 stop, I shall continue my solitary way, and bend my 
 steps towards the hills of Morven. 
 
A WAT 1 
 
A DAY IN LORN. 
 
 It was about noon, when after a walk of ten miles, 
 I arrived at a little eminence which looked down 
 upon Lock Etive and the opening sound of Mull. 
 The foot-path which I followed after leaving Kilch- 
 renan, and the wild woody shores of Loch Awe had 
 conducted me over a very rocky and mountainous 
 country. It was not the direct route leading through 
 Bunaw ; but one shorter and more sequestered which 
 the shepherd's foot has chiefly beaten, saving that 
 now and then it is paced by some adventurous po- 
 ney at the imminent peril of his more adventurous 
 master. 
 
 Even to this path 1 was for from confining myself; 
 but occasionally struck out a new track, and deviated 
 as fancy and humour dictated. Mountains and moors 
 and mosses were successively traversed ; and I felt 
 a pleasure in bracing myself to the toils of a march 
 which amply repaid my labour, in the various ob] 
 jects of interest which from time to time caught the 
 attentioq. 
 
 22 
 
254 A DAY IN LORN. 
 
 This whole section of country seems to have been 
 more anciently peopled than any other part of Scot- 
 land ; or at least to have been earlier rendered 
 memorable. It is strewn with monuments of Pictish, 
 Danish, and Druidical antiquity which read impres- 
 sive lessons of the nothingness of earthly greatness, 
 and demonstrate the pride and the littleness of man. 
 I several times turned aside to inspect these remains, 
 and surveyed them with no ordinary interest. — 1 have 
 little of the zeal of an antiquarian about me, and per- 
 haps not enough of his pruriency ; and yet I would 
 any day deviate a full mile to see a solitary druid's 
 . stone standing upon some lone heath, the memorial 
 of a superstition once the terror and the curse of its 
 votaries. 
 
 It is true that reflection at such a spot is not al- 
 ways of the most pleasurable nature. But it may be 
 profitable ; — and from the contemplation of a moss- 
 grown rock, made venerable by Its connection with 
 an order of people that lived and moved and had a 
 being, centuries out of mind ; — from a view of the 
 scarcely distinguishable remains of a military mound 
 which once braved the shocks, and outstood the tide 
 of battles, but which has long been gradually wasting 
 under the desolating hand of time ; — and even from 
 the inspection of an humble sepulchral heap, — the 
 grass-grown cairn^ — which marks the deposit of the 
 ashes, perchance, of some cotemporary of an Oscar 
 or a Fingal, — from any and all of these objects may 
 a lesson be gathered of salutary import, and the 
 
A DAY IN LORN. 255 
 
 * still small voice' which they utter, may awaken 
 emotions in the breast, at once deep and solemn. 
 
 I know not how the feeling arose, but during the 
 walk every thing around seemed to tell me that I 
 was approaching the land of Ossian. And when I 
 reached the heath-skirted waters of Loch Etive, 
 each feature in the landcape that met the eye, ser- 
 ved to confirm, or rather heighten the impression. 
 The whole was distinguished by an air of simple 
 grandeur, altogether indescribable, but singularly 
 affecting. — Beyond the opposite shores of the frith 
 and at no great distance, were descried the hills of 
 Morven ; and they answered well the description 
 given them by the bard of Fingal. A hood of mist 
 just then concealed their summits, which however 
 soon shifted, and rolled in huge, massy folds around 
 their craggy acclivities. On the left shore of the 
 Loch and a league or two distant, stood the vene* 
 rable ruin of Dunstaffnage ; and opposite, on the isle 
 of Mull, appeared Castle Duart, an ancient fortress, 
 that once served as the stronghold of a chieftain of 
 a powerful clan, and is still used to garrison a few 
 troops in the service of the king. 
 
 The solitude which reigned over these monuments 
 of a far gone antiquity comported well with the 
 general grandeur of the scene. The onl}'^ discerni- 
 ble habitations of a modern date, were a hut on the 
 brae-side by which I descended to the Loch, and oB 
 the other shore, a well constructed, stone building, 
 which with the addition of a second story, and if« 
 
256 A DAY IN LORN. 
 
 neat coat of white-wash, was readily recognised to be 
 an highland inn. The latter house was pleasantly 
 situated in the midst of a green velvet lawn, which 
 sloped to the water's edge. Some straggling woods 
 formed a selvage to this glade ; and rugged hills and 
 "broken ridges of mountains constituted the back- 
 ground. — It was a green spot in the desert, rendered 
 interesting by the contrast which it bore to the sav- 
 age wildness of the adjacent objects ; and no less 
 so by the solid comforts which the little inn that 
 crowned the centre, seemed to boast. 
 
 I stopped for a moment at the hut mentioned 
 above. It was a mere hovel. A little chubby-faced 
 bairn of three or four, and a pair of well-fed pigs 
 were the only inmates of the humble abode. — 1 en- 
 deavoured to enter into something like conversation 
 with the former,, but soon perceived that the latter 
 were conversant with the most intelligible dialect ; 
 — for what with a furious grunting and various 
 significant menaces, too pointed to be mistaken, they 
 gave me to understand that my presence was highly 
 unwelcome. Accordingly I beat a retreat with as 
 good a face as I could rally, not however without 
 casting a second look around, which led me to suspect 
 that my inhospitable reception M'^as in part owing to 
 jealousy, lest I had come to share in the precious 
 contents of a potatoe-pot which bubbled over the 
 turf-fire, and which the young bairn, with his swinish 
 associates, appeared to be stationed for the purpose 
 of guarding. 
 
A DAY IN LORN. 257 
 
 Arriving at the shore, and finding that the boats 
 attached to the ferry were all on the other side, I 
 contrived by waving an handkerchief, to make signal 
 for a skiff to put ojff for my transportation. It was 
 not long before a boat, manned by two brawny high- 
 landers, was shoved from the beach and shot athw^art 
 the rippling tide. It quickly returned with me, and 
 a few minutes afterwards I was conducted to the inn 
 whose neat and modest aspect had regaled my eye 
 from the opposite shore. 
 
 Near the ferry where I crossed, Loch Etive dis- 
 charges itself into the sea, or more properly into 
 an arm of it which runs up between Mull and 
 nether Lorn. I observed a singular phenomenon 
 produced by a contraction of the loch to an incon- 
 siderable width compared with the expanse both 
 above and below, which occasions the water to rush 
 with much violence through the strait, and form what 
 is called in America, a rapid. This rapid I was told, 
 and the fact I afterwards witnessed, — becomes at 
 half ebb a foaming waterfall > the height of which at 
 spring tides, varies from six to eight feet. Connei, 
 the name of the ferry, takes its etymology from this ; 
 — being a derivative from Conf-huil which signifies a 
 turbid flood or cataract. 
 
 Through partially fatigued by my morning's ram- 
 ble, I allowed myself little time to rest at the inn on 
 my first arrival, but ordered a boat to take me down 
 the Lake to Dunstaffnage. This venerable relic 
 of the Auld Lang Syne had rivetted my attention al- 
 
 22* 
 
253 A ©AY IN LORN. 
 
 most from the moment it came in sight ; and I was 
 impatient to take a nearer view. In distant pros- 
 pect, especially seen from Connel ferrj, it appeared 
 familiar to me ; and this, in consequence of an accu- 
 rate engraving of the structure which I remembered 
 to have seen accompanying Pennant's tour in Scot- 
 land. 
 
 This castle is situated in one of the finest possible 
 positions. It is built on a rock not far from the 
 mouth of Loch Etive, the shore of which there forms 
 a beautiful curve, and the waters expand within to a 
 noble bay. Its own height is commanding ; and the 
 rock on which it stands having been hewn into a 
 regular, square form, and made precipitous in order 
 to conform to it in shape, — its apparent altitude is 
 much greater than the true. The masonry is rude 
 and clumsy; but a short distance off, this is not dis- 
 cernible. All is then picturesque and lovely ; and 
 at the little kej whence I embarked on my visit to it, 
 there was a softness thrown over it, which was al- 
 together enchanting. 
 
 We landed under a rocky ledge, and climbing the 
 bank struck into a gravelled foot-path, now much 
 tangled, and nearly overgrown with weeds and grass. 
 This led to the castle entrance, and terminated at a 
 flight of steps, communicating with the interiour. 
 Ascending these, I found myself within the court of 
 the ruin ; and my eye roved eagerly over the mas- 
 sive walls and tall battlemented towers with which T 
 was encompassed. 
 
A DAY IN LORN. 259 
 
 There was not much which called for particular 
 attention. The building on three sides is little else 
 than a shell ; although the walls are of surprising 
 thickness. On the remaining side, it is preserved 
 in tolerable repair. Lately, a convenient tenement 
 has been erected against it, — forming a respectable 
 appendage, and serving for a residence to the factor, 
 or, to speak strictly, — a deputy of the factor of the 
 Duke of Argyle, which nobleman is hereditary keep- 
 er of Dunstaifnage under the crown. 
 
 Permission was given me to ascend the walls and 
 explore the ruin at my leisure. On a part of the 
 ramparts, I stumbled upon a brass cannon, dismoun- 
 ted, and well nigh imbedded in ivy. It was of very 
 curious workmanship, and highly ornamented with 
 appropriate devices, v.g. gorgon heads hypergriffs, 
 et c(jet. The Dutch arms, or at least what I took to 
 be such, were engraven upon it, and an inscription 
 which I did not puzzle myself to construe, recorded 
 probably the place and the artisan, where and by 
 whom it was fabricated. 
 
 By what means the cannon came there, I under- 
 take not to divine. I confess however that I was 
 sorry to meet with it ; for such was the force of as- 
 sociation, and so much were my feelings under the 
 influence of imagination that least of all, was I pre- 
 pared to see the implements of modern warfare 
 among the ruins of a pile which once was the abode 
 of the Fergusses and Kenneths. Had a broken spear's 
 head, or a fragment of a ' sounding shield' caught 
 
26d A DAY IN LORN. 
 
 my eye — either would have been in unison with 
 my feelings ; and they were probably the objects 
 which I was insensibly expecting. Be that as it may, 
 I called to mind that this was anciently the place of 
 deposit for Jacob's Stone — once the palladium of 
 Scotland ; — and that so iar as regards the security of 
 Dunstaffnage, the place of the relique may be pro- 
 perly enough supplied by this modern safeguard. 
 The substitute inherits, no doubt, the tutelary virtue 
 of its renowned predecessor. 
 
 I enjoyed highly the view from the walls of the 
 castle. The water prospect was grand; and on the 
 other side, the steep and rugged headlands, the 
 mountains and hills and vallies that stretched into 
 an extensive landscape, were on a nobleness of scale, 
 seldom matched. 
 
 To the south of the castle and distant about an 
 hundred yards, is a decayed, roofless building which 
 I at first presumed to have been formerly a chapel ; but 
 on a nearer view, it proved to be a sort of mausoleum, 
 only instead of one tomb, man}' graves were included 
 within it. A description which Buchanan has left of 
 some ruinous structure in lona, answers very well to 
 the appearance of this, being — ' a tombe of stain 
 formit like a wee chapelle, with ane braid gray mar- 
 belle or guhin stain on y^ gavil of ilk ane of y« 
 tombes.'* — In this of Dunstaffnage, — the flag-stone 
 pavement as well as the enclosing walls, is lettered 
 with many an epitaph of the long forgotten dead. 
 
 * Buchanan's account of lona, published in 1549. 
 
A DAY IN LORN. 261 
 
 Like the mysterious roll of the prophet which was 
 eovered within and without with mourning and la- 
 mentation and woe, they tell the griefs of surviving 
 relatives for the loss of affectionate kindred and dear- 
 ly-loved associates, — relatives who themselves have 
 long since paid the debt of nature, and whose mon- 
 umental inscriptions in their turn, now ask ' the 
 passing homage of a sigh.' 
 
 On my return to Connel, one of the boatmen, to 
 indulge his own garrulity, and haply at the same 
 time to afford me entertainment, undertook to give 
 an account of certain legends, current in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 First pointing my attention to the place where I 
 had crossed the Lake, he asked in a tone of solem- 
 nity, if I took notice of several rocks, which appear- 
 ed in the rapids at equi-distances between the two 
 banks ? I replied that I distinguished four ; and that 
 those I had remarked when I first came down to the 
 ferry, both from the singularity of their form and 
 -position, and their close resemblance to each other. 
 
 ' And what is there further observable in respect 
 to them,' I inquired ? 
 
 ' How did they come there ?' said he, ' you might 
 rather ask.' 
 
 On my changing the interrogatory in compliance 
 with his suggestion, he replied, shaking his head, — 
 '' no mortal hand ever put them there.' 
 
 ' And in truth so it would seem.' 
 
262 A DAY IN LORN. 
 
 ' Aye, sir,' was the answer, ' but you do not take 
 my meaning. There was De'il's work in yonder af- 
 fair.' 
 
 ' The Devil ? and so he has been sporting his 
 pranks among j'^ou ?' 
 
 The De'il has been amongst us, 1 very believe,' 
 said the boatman very gravely, — ' but it is no sport 
 when he makes Jiis appearance I can assure you, 
 sir. Howbeit as for those rocks that I was speaking 
 of, he only had his finger in that business. 1 hey 
 say,' — he proceeded, lowering his voice, — ' that one 
 black blasty night, a witch that was in league 
 with Old Nick came to the Loch side to gain a pas- 
 sage across. There was no ferry there then, and 
 the water was very boisterous ; but the hag mutter- 
 ed her spell, and a huge dam immediately rose at 
 her bidding, and she crossed the Firth dry-shod.' 
 
 ' And I am to understand, that the stones which I 
 see, are a remnant of that night's labour.' 
 
 ' You're right, you're right,' he answered ; ' the 
 water being suddenly checked, gradually rose to the 
 surface of the dam, and then rushed over it with such 
 force that part of it was swept away. Those square 
 rocks indeed were left; and enough of the whole 
 remains to make the tumbling and foam in the wa- 
 ter which you perceive ; — and a meikle tough pull, 
 I trow does it make for us, whenever we attempt 
 to fetch the boat across the current.' 
 
 Finding that I had touched the right note in the 
 gamut of my friend, the boatman, — (there was only 
 
A DAY IX LORN. 26« 
 
 ©ne other person in the skiff, who assisted in work- 
 ing it, and he, not understanding English, merely 
 spoke when interrogated in Gaslic by his companion 
 respecting the accuracies of date or circumstance.) 
 — I accordingly pursued my inquiries in relation to 
 the popular superstitions of the vicinity. ' From the 
 wonderful account friend, which you have just given 
 me,' said I, ^ I am led to infer that evil spirits have 
 been abroad among you, or at least that there have 
 been those who have held correspondence with the 
 prince of darkness.' ' Ah !' said he,' shame it is, to 
 have happened; but in truth it is so. Witches were 
 plenty in this country once ; Mull was full of them.' 
 
 * And ! presume that you have treasured,' I con- 
 tinued, ' many a rare story of their exploits.' 
 
 ' Oh, I know full enough of their doings. They 
 carried on at a high rate, by my troth. 'J here was 
 no escaping their clutches when once they had a 
 mind to vex the pair people that lived in these 
 parts.' — Then, with a stroke of his oar, shifting 
 the head of the boat so as to bring the eastern pro- 
 montory of Mull into a side-view, — ' yonder is Cas- 
 tle Duart,' said he, ' and a flag which in a clear day 
 may be seen waving over it, is the standard ot 
 George of Hanover But long ago, that post was 
 held by the chiefs of the clan M'Lean, — and a sad 
 set they were in the olden age. 
 
 ' Once on a time,' he proceeded, (but not without 
 fixing a twinkling grey eye keenly upon me, expect- 
 ing, no doubt, that his words were ab©ut to " harrow 
 
264 A DAY IN LOKN, 
 
 up my soul," and " freeze my young blood,").:*-* 
 once on a time^ a daughter of the king of Spain 
 came to visit Icolmkill, — where was in the auld days 
 a monastery with scores of priests and monks ; — 
 and daring her stay hereabouts she landed at Mull 
 and visited M'Donald, lord of the Isles. He was a 
 brave gallant, and entertained her very hospitably. 
 But M'Lean was jealous of all this ; and moreverhe 
 owed M'Donald a grudge from some quarrel they 
 aforetime had. So one day, when there was a feast 
 at Arros where M'Donald lived, he went there with 
 a pack of carls — the veriest bairns of Satan, who 
 always trooped at his heels, — and coming upon the 
 company by surprise, succeeded after a short scuffle, 
 in getting possession of the person of the princess, 
 and carrying her off, along with M'Donald, to Castle 
 Duart.' 
 
 ' Why that was a base deed, truly ; but what con- 
 nexion had all this business with the agency of 
 witches V 
 
 ' All in due course, sir,' said he — ' the result you 
 will soon hear.' 
 
 ' M'Donald was put into the keep ; but the prin- 
 cess, M'Lean treated very well, and wished to make 
 her his wife. But when the news of what had hap- 
 pened reached Spain,' — (by what channel was not 
 mentioned) — ' the king was very wroth, and he im- 
 mediately fitted out a great galley, and sent it to 
 Mull, with orders to the chief officer, besides rescu- 
 ing his daughter, to lay waste all M'Lean's posses^ 
 Sions, and batter his castle about his ears." 
 
A DAY IN LORN. 265 
 
 ' And was M'Lean idle all the while ?' 
 
 ' Not he. He suspected that something was in the 
 wind ; and therefore sent out and engaged all the 
 witches between Andnacraig and Tabermawry to 
 repair to Castle Duart ; and they consented to lend 
 him a hand and defend him in case of extremity. 
 
 ' Well, the ship came and anchored under the cas- 
 tle lee ; and a message was sent to M'Lean, to de- 
 liver up the princess. He recked not for the sum- 
 mons : and preparations were forthwith made on 
 board the galley to assault the castle on the follow- 
 ing day. 
 
 * Now the captain himself was a witch^ (my in- 
 formant by the bye, little heeded the distinctions of 
 gender) and as he walked the deck in the evening, he 
 was strangely disturbed and ordered a boy to mount 
 to the mast head and inform him of what he saw. 
 The boy obeyed, and reported that he spied a black 
 crow hovering about the main peak. — Not long after 
 he was again sent up, and descended saying that he 
 saw two others in company with the former. — '• Well, 
 well,' said the captain, — ' let 'em come ; they will 
 find me a full match for them, though they seem to 
 gather pretty fast.' — A third and a fourth time, the 
 boy was ordered aloft, and announced that he saw 
 another and another black crow ! 
 
 ' When the messenger had once more descended 
 and said that there were six crows perched in differ- 
 ent parts of the rigging, the captam cried out — 
 ' Lack-a-day ! we shall have hot work, I ken : but 
 
 23 
 
266 A DAY IN LORN. 
 
 never fear, my lad, I can manage these too.' — No- 
 thing daunted the sailor-boy shortly run up the rat- 
 lins again, in compliance with his master's wishes, 
 and espied another and a seventh black crow ! This 
 last intelligence filled the captain with dismay. — ' It 
 is all over with us,' — he exclaimed ; ' the imps are 
 too many for me. I could have coped with six of 
 them; but seven black crows are quite an over- 
 match !' 
 
 /^ And it happened as he predicted. — The sky soon 
 darkened ; — a tempest began to lower ; — the water 
 assumed an inky hue, and shortly swelled into bil- 
 lows ; — the cable parted from the prow ; — the galley 
 was whirled round and round, — and in no long time, 
 it sunk amid the waves, and not a soul on board 
 escaped to tell the horrors of the catastrophe !' 
 
 ' You really relate a marvellous occurrence,' said 
 I to the boatman, when he had finished his tragic 
 tale, — ' and do you honestly believe it to be true ?' 
 
 ' True, sir ; true !' he repeated, (at the same time 
 suspending the operation of rowing, as if overcome 
 with astonishment at my skepticism ;) — ' as true, sir, 
 as that you are a southron.""^ 
 
 ' Why, you mistake me, Mr. Boatman ; if I may 
 judge by the emphasis of your manner. I did not 
 mean to imply a shadow of doubt on my part 
 
 * The Highland Scotch call all indiscriminately Southrons 
 who are supposed to live between the waters of Teith and 
 the English channel. The Lowlanders confine the term to those, 
 who reside to the southward of the river Tweed. 
 
A DAY IN LORN. 26T 
 
 respecting the authenticity of what you have just 
 communicated; but only wished to ascertain the 
 stren«^th of your own faith." 
 
 He shook his head ; — and in fact the whole was no 
 apocrypha to him ; but was as confidently believed 
 in, as the creed of the kirk-covenanters. 
 
 ' But have you any witches or wizards,' I asked, 
 * now-a-days among you ?' 
 
 ' Oh, no ;' said he, ' thank God they have all dis- 
 appeared. Since I was a boy, there iiave been none 
 in these parts, — at least none that have worked us 
 any mischief.' 
 
 ' And how do you account for this ?' 
 
 ' With leave, sir,' he replied, — ' that is a very 
 simple question. When the De'il was abroad with 
 his charms, and familiar spirits were common in the 
 land, 'twas in the day of the Stuarts. They cared 
 nothing about the preaching of the gospel ; and 
 minded little how the puir people suffered for want 
 of godly ministers and chapels, and sic like. But 
 when the Georges of Hanover came to the throne, 
 then ministers were sent among us, and churches 
 were built, and christian bells were sounded, — and 
 so the old haggles all fled. Tor they would as lief 
 smoke in the De'il's linn as come within the hearing 
 of the kirk-bells.' 
 
 Whilst I was musing upon the philosophy of this 
 explanation, and ruminating on the general train of 
 sentiment with which I had been edified, the boat 
 was fast approaching the little pier from which I had 
 taken my departure. 
 
368 A DAY IN LORN. 
 
 The weather after my leaving" Dunstaffnage had 
 been singularly changeful, — alternately fair, misty 
 and showery, — so that every few minutes I was 
 obliged to spread an umbrella in order to be screen- 
 ed from a smart fall of rain ; after which in no long 
 time, the sun would break from the clouds and shine 
 for an interval, with great splendour. Morvern was 
 several times totally shrouded in vapour ; and again 
 its towering summits were seen with perfect distinct- 
 ness. — Despite of the prosing of the boatman, and 
 the amusing quaintness of many of his remarks, I 
 was glad to shift my situation ; and well pleased to 
 escape from further exposure to the fitful changes of 
 sky and weather — to the snug quiet of the little ian 
 of Connel. 
 
%' 
 
 TO THE 
 
 GRAVE OF COL. GARDINER, 
 
 23 * 
 
ISl^ 
 
 TO THE 
 
 GRAVE OF COL. GARDINER 
 
 r AR be from me and my friends,' said Johnson, 
 ' such frigid philosophy as may conduct us, indif- 
 ferent and unmoved, over any ground that has been 
 dignified by wisdom, bravery or virtue. That man 
 is Uttle to be envied, whose patriotism would not 
 gain force upon the plains of Marathon, or whose 
 piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of 
 lona.' 
 
 The sentiment which breathes through this noble 
 passage is one which finds a response in the bosoms 
 of most men. It is not the few but the many who 
 feel the power ot association adding new interest to 
 the scenes of distingU'shed events ; and who expe- 
 rience unwonted kindlings of pleasurable sensibility 
 in surveying spots where deeds of ' high emprise' 
 have been achieved : and where the wise and the 
 good have toiled and suffered in the cause of huma- 
 nity. The imagination at such times practises upon 
 
272 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 our feelings. We yield ourselves up voluntarily to 
 its sway ; and the mind becomes the sport of fancy. 
 
 To analyze the satisfactions which spring from 
 this source, is a curious but no easy problem. It is 
 enough for the present purpose to observe, that in 
 general they are purely factitious. This is appa- 
 rent from the emotions awakened b}'^ the review of 
 any scene of battle. — The traveller who crosses a 
 field whereon some hard-fought conflict was once 
 waged, if ignorant of the events which there took 
 place, beholds it with no other concern than that 
 which its natural aspect or local characteristics may 
 call forth. But let him be told that there two pow- 
 erful armies once commingled in deadly strife ; that 
 there mighty feats of martial daring have been 
 wrought ; and that there amid many a ' glorious 
 danger,' has the blood-stained laurel been gathered, 
 — and how different the feelings which then swell in 
 the breast.— If haply the muse has sung of those 
 proud achievements ; — and if too, the creative fan- 
 cy of the poet has ' bodied forth' scenes of its own 
 conception, and interwoven them with descriptions 
 of sober fact, the individual contemplates with still 
 deeper attention the little circumscribed spot which 
 accident has thus signalised. 
 
 But in most cases, the ideal gratification so afford- 
 ed is of short continuance ; and the feelings where- 
 in it is founded, seldom admit of being similarly ex- 
 erted by a second view of the self-same objects and 
 scenes. — There is one spot, however, which can 
 
OF COL. GARDINER. 275 
 
 ever be visited with emotions equally lively, though 
 solemn. It is the grave of the christian hero ; and 
 there is not the man, I conceive, who is endued 
 with the least portion of sensibility, that can contem* 
 plate with indiiference the green turf which fresh- 
 ens over the mortal remains of one who in life was 
 honoured, and in death bewailed. The interest, in 
 fact, which the mind then feels, originates more or 
 less in sympathy. Death being a lot common and 
 inevitable to all, we naturally look upon the grave 
 as a memento of our own frailty. It is another tro- 
 phy, commemorative of another triumph, which the 
 king of terrors has won over a fellow-mortal ; and 
 it sternly reminds us that ere long we too shall fall 
 under the power of the same ruthless foe, and a 
 new monument shall be reared over our wasting 
 frames. 
 
 At the grave of the truly good man, moreover, a 
 lesson, directly beneficial, may be acquired. — Re- 
 flection on the virtues which fitted him for the 
 change of death, naturally prompts within us the 
 pious resolve, so to discipline ourselves in the du- 
 ties of the moral man, as that, like him, we may 
 await with calmness and intrepidity of soul the arri- 
 val of the hour when we shall be required to bid 
 adieu to present scenes, — and when our own mortal 
 bodies will be consigned to darkness and to dust. 
 
 There is beside all this, an illusion which I am 
 ever wilHng to indulge at such a consecrated spot. 
 When I approach the hallowed depository of the 
 
274 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 remains of the virtuous and excellent, I fancy my- 
 self to be brought into something like a nearness to 
 the individuals themselves. Imagination calls up 
 their departed shades, and enters, as it were, into 
 converse with them. Nor can 1 easily divest myself 
 of the persuasion that the disinthrailed spirit that 
 once animated a body of clay still hovers around the 
 spot where its earthly tabernacle is laid, and that it 
 shares intuitively in the consciousness of those who 
 repair thither to meditate on distinguished excel- 
 lence, or to drop a tear to departed worth. 
 
 Influenced by some such feelings as I have at- 
 tempted to express. I resolved the other day, on a 
 visit to Tranent church-yard, to explore the burial- 
 place of the celebrated Col. Gardiner. 
 
 From my earliest years I have been taught to re- 
 vere the memory of that great man. Great, I will 
 call him ; for j believe him to have been eminently 
 good. And if the simple, but touching narrative of 
 his life and conversation, as traced by the pen of the 
 pious Doddridge, be entitled to any credit, — it is 
 impossible to doubt, that from the period of his con- 
 version, he was no less pre-eminently faithful as a 
 soldier of the Cross, than distinguished for his 
 valour and loyalty in the service of his earthly 
 prince. 
 
 1 am well aware that there are those who reject 
 the marvels in the life of Gardiner, which his bio- 
 grapher, nevertheless, has made no scruple in re- 
 cording. The preternatural manner in which a 
 
OF COL. GARDINER. 275 
 
 happy change of his moral temper and feelings and 
 habits is related to have suddenly taken place, is 
 distrusted by some, and avowedly disbelieved by 
 others. And many to account, — effectually as they 
 pretend, — for the seeming miraculousness of the as- 
 serted chang-e, maintain that the impression suppo- 
 sed to have been made upon his wakmg senses, was 
 only the idle wandering of a dream. 
 
 I am not disposed to enter into a discussion on 
 these topics ; much less to contest formally the 
 point with those who will have it, that nothing su- 
 pernatural was sensibly presented to the gaze of the 
 convert to produce the change which, it is agreed, 
 actually took place. I cannot, nevertheless, relin- 
 quish the opportunity to remark that in my own 
 humble judgment, the difhculty in the case is by no 
 means removed, by resolving the overpowermg in- 
 fluence which all at once was made upon the mind 
 of Gardiner, into some of the accidental phenome- 
 na of sleep, rather than into the realities of a wak- 
 ing consciousness. The Sovereign Disposer of 
 events can no less effectually, as well as miraculous- 
 ly operate on the human heart when the bodily fa- 
 culties are locked up in slumber, than when there 
 is an entire and indisputable exercise of its powers 
 in a state of watchfulness. — Besides, every eifect 
 must have an adequate cause ; and a complete trans- 
 formation of character, from profligacy to purity of 
 moral demeanor, is a result too great to be brought 
 about by the idle vagaries, or some fortuitous im- 
 
276 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 pulse, of a dream. Such an event would be a mi- 
 racle with a witness. 
 
 To me it appears that much of the reluctance 
 which exists, to accredit the sudden marvellous 
 change which Doddridge describes to have been 
 wrought on the character of his friend, is ascribable 
 to the gross abuses to which the doctrine, which it 
 is oftentimes brought to prove, is confessedly liable. 
 The impositions which have been palmed upon the 
 credulity of mankind under the name of conversions, 
 have occasioned in many minds an utter skepticism 
 respecting the truth and genuineness of any. But 
 the falsity of a thousand cases will not necessarily 
 disprove a single one so well attested as is the in- 
 stance of Col. Gardiner. The testimony of his bio- 
 grapher is at least too high to be set aside by a 
 mere unsupported negatur. And to an unprejudiced 
 mind it would seem, that to question the reality of 
 his conversion, — a conversion, moreover, effected in 
 a way the most extraordinary, — is, at best, a dis- 
 pute about words. For, certain it is, that in early 
 life Gardiner was noted for his libertinism and irreli- 
 gion ; and certain it equdliy is that from and after a 
 given period he was proverbially exemplary in the 
 discharge of every moral and religious duty. For 
 the space of six and twenty years, he steadily evinc- 
 ed the sincerity of his christian professions, in des- 
 pite of the most trying temptations and discourage- 
 ments ; and the faith which he espoused he labour- 
 ed assiduously to adorn and recommend.~Nor were 
 
OF COL. GARDINER. 277 
 
 his efforts unavailing. The influence which he en- 
 joyed in the elevated station wherein he moved, was 
 successfully appUed to the promotion of the moral 
 welfare of those on whom that influence could act ; 
 and thus through his single instrumentality were the 
 blessings of religion more extensively diff'used, and 
 many a stubborn knee was made to bow in humble 
 reverence at the foot of the Redeemer's cross. 
 
 A friend who entertained for the memory of Gar- 
 diner a veneration allied to my own, was induced to 
 accompany me on my visit to the place of his sepul- 
 ture. The excursion which we projected enabled 
 us to embrace other objects besides that particularly 
 contemplated ; and chiefly the field of Preston Pans, 
 where the hero fell ; — and where on the same occa- 
 sion, the forces of the Pretender gained a decisive 
 victory over the royal troops. 
 
 We entered a coach in High-street, and took seats 
 for Musselburgh. Leaving the city by the Canon- 
 gate, we proceeded through a beautiful country, 
 first to Porto Belio, — a pleasant village, the minia- 
 ture of Margate, — celebrated tor its excellent baths, 
 and the Bethesda virtue of its waters. 
 
 Continuing our route, we passed two or three ele- 
 gant villas ; one of which was the seat of the Mar- 
 quis of Abercorn. Not long after, the North Esk 
 was met, which we crossed by a neat stone bridge, 
 and entered Musselburgh. There we left our con- 
 veyance, and prepared to accomplish the residue 
 of our excursion on foot. 
 24 
 
278 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 The morning being lowering we provided our- 
 selves with umbrellas ; — and leaving Musselburgh, 
 bent our steps towards the village of Preston Pans. 
 The walk led us along the sea-coast, and afforded se- 
 veral picturesque views of the Islands of the Forth, 
 with the opposite coast of Fife. Edinburgh, with 
 its amphitheatre of hills, formed a noble object to 
 the north. 
 
 We crossed a corner of Pinkie field, where the 
 battle of that name was fought between the Scots 
 and English, in the middle of the sixteenth century; 
 and two miles further, we arrived at Preston Tower, 
 rendered famous by the more eventful action of 
 1745. The battle ground comprehended the site 
 of this tower, and stretched to the southward and 
 westward of it. The surface of the land is uneven 
 and waving ; and slopes gradually from some heights 
 on which the village of Tranent is built, to the shores 
 of the Frith of Forth. The ground is now well 
 tilled ; and intersected with many quick-hedges. 
 
 We had walked over a part of the field when a 
 shower overtook us ; and we were constrained to seek 
 shelter under the lee side of a hawthorn row, about 
 a stone's cast from the venerable ' Thorn 1 ree be- 
 sides the meadow-mill.' Our covert being on the 
 declivity of a rising ground which commanded a 
 view of the scene of combat, we were enabled to 
 calculate the relative advantages and disadvantages 
 of the positions occupied by the two armies anterior 
 to the engagement. The odds in this respect were 
 manifestly against the EngUsh ; but yet this is 
 
OF COL. GARDINER. 27« 
 
 by no means sufficient to account for the shameful 
 reverse which their arms sustained on this fatal field. 
 They were probably dispirited by being withheld 
 from engaging the enemy on the night preceding 
 the general conflict, notwithstanding their expressed 
 wishes to that eifect ; — a measure which Gardiner 
 himself strongly urged ; and had his prudent and he- 
 roic counsel been followed, victory might not only 
 have declared itself in favour of the loyalists, but 
 his own valuable life been preserved, the sacri- 
 fice of which is enough to render forever hateful the 
 memory of the rebel cause.* 
 
 We were not long confined to our shelter. The 
 passing cloud soon spent itself; and we resumed our 
 walk towards Tranent kirk. When we reached the 
 church yard, we looked eagerly round for some 
 sculptured monument which might betoken the 
 tomb of Gardiner. We agreed to prosecute the 
 
 * The irresolute conduct of the insurgents after their success 
 at Preston Pans, evinced a fatuity no less surprising than the 
 pusillanimous conduct of the English in battle. Had they, 
 instead of investing the Castle of Edinburgh, and inactively 
 awaiting its reduction, by one bold push marched direct for Eng- 
 land, the capital of the United Kingdom would most probably 
 have fallen into their hands, and perhaps a Stuart been once more 
 seated upon the throne of the British realm. But want of con- 
 sistency and vigour in their schemes, led to speedy disaster and 
 defeat; and the measures which they resorted to for the pur- 
 pose of accomplishing their revolutionary aims, not only result- 
 ed in their own utter discomfiture, but in the augmented stability 
 and triiimnhaut ascendant of the house of Brunswick. 
 
280 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 quest separately ; and selecting different portions of- 
 the ground, were each emulous to anticipate the 
 other in making* the desired discovery. But our re- 
 spective searches were fruitless. The many epi- 
 taphs on which the eye hastily glanced, were chief- 
 ly remembrancers of those who, '' alike to fortune 
 and to fame unknown,' had lived and died upon the 
 spot where they had been born. Some records 
 there were of the virtues and excellencies of a ieyv^ 
 who were gone to inherit in a better world the re- 
 compence for which they had toiled, and that happi- 
 ness which had been denied to them in this ; but 
 among the inscriptions which caught the gaze in 
 every direction, there was none that told the death, 
 or rehearsed the transcendent excellence of Gar- 
 diner. 
 
 Disappointed and surprised, we enquired of an el- 
 derly man who chanced to pass near the cemetery, if 
 he could point out the spot where Colonel G. was 
 interred ? He said that ' he had heard that some 
 meikle officer, that had been slain on yon field, had 
 been buried in or anent the kirk, but where, he nae 
 ke'nPd.'* — Shortly after, we hailed another passenger 
 and addressed the same enquiry, not however with 
 equal hope of satisfaction, as he belonged to a later 
 generation. The question was listened to with a 
 look expressive of the vacancy of ignorance ; and 
 after a moment's pause, as if for the purpose of 
 tasking his memory, he replied, that he had never 
 heard of such a man ! 
 
OP COL. GARDINER. 28l 
 
 Notwithstanding these disheartening answers, we 
 were not disposed to relinquish enquiry. Possibly, 
 thought we, the tomb we seek may be within the 
 walls of the church. To ascertam this point, I ap» 
 plied at a neighbouring house, which proved to be 
 the manse, (^anglice^ a parsonage ;) the lady of which 
 with great civility gave the information desired. 
 She stated that the remains of Colonel G. were en- 
 tomed without the kirk ; and apprised me of some 
 particulars which might identify the spot. The lady 
 added, that the house which she then occupied was 
 the one to which he was borne after the battle, and 
 where he breathed his last. 
 
 During the conversation, an aged, decrepit wo- 
 man was seen moving up the village hill, in a direc- 
 tion towards the church. Her hgure was bent low 
 with years ; and a staff supported her tottering steps. 
 — ' There' said my kind informant ' is Mistress* 
 
 ; she supplies the place of parish beadle : — 
 
 and gladly will she conduct you to the spot you are 
 in search of.' 
 
 Rejoining my companion, I acordingly put myself 
 under the guidance of the sybil, whose appearance 
 indicated that at least for two generations she had 
 been the ' sad historian of the pensive plain.' The 
 sight of a piece of Silver brightened her rheumy eye, 
 
 * The Scotch in general, pronounce Mrs. like the word from 
 which it is contracted, in the manner written above ;— as, Jlfw- 
 stress A., Mistress B., Hic. 
 
 24 * 
 
282 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 and quickened partially the movements of her limbs, 
 as we again entered (^Teucro auspice,) on the church- 
 yard way. 
 
 Arrived at the spot, she pointed to a gentle rising 
 on the surface of the green earth ; — ' that' said she, 
 ' is the grave of Gardiner.' ' And is that all ?' — we 
 both exclaimed. — ' That's all,' was the answer. And 
 most true it is, that no monument, not even a stone 
 marks the ground where sleeps this extraordinary 
 man, a man, whom Caledonia may well be proud to 
 have enrolled among her best and bravest sons. I 
 beheld, however, the naked turf with veneration ; 
 and dropped upon it a spontaneous tear to the me- 
 mory of the blest — the sainted Gardiner. 
 
 The dame asserted that there never had been a 
 
 monument erected over the grave of G . 
 
 Formerly indeed, she said, the spot where he lies 
 was much more distinctly marked ; but about eigh- 
 ,teen years since, the church was altered and much 
 of it rebuilt; and being near the Colonel's grave, 
 the latter was often trampled upon, and the heap 
 ^nearly levelled. That no more respect has ever 
 been paid to the place of his ashes, — that not even 
 a humble, sepulchral tablet attests its identity — may 
 iastly excite our wonder when we reflect that inde- 
 pendently of his noble* connexions, and the high 
 
 * Colonel Gardiner was married to the Right Hon. Lady Frances 
 Ersldne, sister of the late Earl of Buchan, and aunt to the pre- 
 sent Lords Buchan and Erskine. 
 
OF COL. GARDINER. 283 
 
 military station which he filled, (that of full Colonel 
 of a regiment of dragoons, an office, generally held 
 by persons of titled rank,)— all the honour, or rather 
 redemption from complete disgrace, which redound- 
 ed to the arms of his sovereign in the action where- 
 in he fell, was due to himself alone. But his illus- 
 trious name requires not the factitious aid of brass or 
 marble to give it perpetuity. On the page of hfe, 
 it is inscribed in characters never to be erased ; — 
 and upon earth, so long as religion shall have its 
 votaries, or piety be revered, it shall be cherished 
 in devout remembrance. 
 
 Ne'er to the chambers where the mighty rest, 
 Since their foundation came a nobler guest ; 
 And ne"'er to bovvers of bliss has been conveyed 
 A fairer spirit, or more welcome shade. 
 
 TicktWs El. on Addison. 
 
 Leaving the church yard, we commenced our re- 
 turn-walk to Musselburgh. We made a slight detour 
 in order to view Bankton House, the property of 
 Colonel Gardiner during the last years of his life. 
 It is situated about a mile from Tranent, and not far 
 from the scene of his death. It is remarkable that 
 the wall which encloses the outer park attached to 
 the residence, is one of the boundaries of PrestoQ 
 fields. It was against it that the hero made his last 
 stand, when he rallied the little band which alone re- 
 mained true to him j and there it was that he poured 
 
284 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 out his life-blood, litefally in defence of his ' home 
 and his fireside,' no less than of his country and his 
 God. 
 
 The house and grounds of Bankton, have un- 
 dergone little alteration since the days of Gardi- 
 ner. The former is a neat commodious mansion, 
 constructed of stone in an antiquated taste, with an 
 high pediment in the roof both in the front and rear. 
 A range of offices extends on either side, answering 
 each to the otber, aad termmated by small towers. 
 There is an extensive enclosure of grass land roand 
 the house, planted with noble trees, chiefly beech, 
 elms and yews. An aveaue of these leads from the 
 main gate-way to the door of the mansion. They 
 have attained a great age ; and make a stately and 
 venerable appearance* 
 
 As soon as the battle of Preston Pans turned in 
 favour of the rebels, a party of them entered and 
 sacked Bankton house. The colonel's papers were 
 destroyed, or scattered in confusion. Every article 
 of value was pillaged, even, says his biographer, 
 * to the curtains of the beds and hangings of the 
 rooms.' The house itself was converted into an 
 hospital for the reception of the wounded in the 
 battle. 
 
 If any thing could have added to the grief of Lady 
 Gardiner and her surviving offspring in the irrepara- 
 ble loss sustained by the death of colonel G., it 
 must have been these deeds of outrage and rapine 
 committed by the insurgents. For the first event, — 
 namely, a final separation from her loved and hon- 
 
OF COL. GARDINER. 285 
 
 oured partner, the former seems to have heen in 
 some measure prepared by the affecting mterview 
 which she is described to have had with him in Stir- 
 ling castle, a few days prior to the battle, — when he 
 spoke as though confidently anticipating his end to be 
 near. But she little imagined the circumstances of 
 barbarity with which his death was to be accompa- 
 nied ; nor the depredations and excesses which the 
 lawless hand of a cruel soldiery were shortly to 
 commit in the very bosom of that home, where he 
 had spent his happiest, holiest hours. But under 
 the augmented weight of her affliction Lacly G. 
 bore up with a fortitude seldom surpassed; and such 
 proofs of exalted piety did she exhibit during the 
 series of years she survived in widowhood, that her 
 name is still precious in the remembrance of many, 
 and a new lustre thereby added to the name of Gar- 
 diner. 
 
 I cannot leave the present subject without ex- 
 pressing the satisfaction which I have experienced, 
 in common doubtless with others, in recognising in 
 a seemingly fictitious character introduced in the 
 popular work of VVaverley, the identical personage 
 on whose character I have been remarking. The 
 colonel G. whom the author alluded to, intro- 
 duces as the commander of the regiment, in which 
 his youthful hero was commissioned, is the self- 
 same colonel Gardiner who is eulogized by Dod- 
 dridge, and who fell a martyr to his loyalty on the 
 field of Preston Pans. His character, thouj^-h not 
 studiously portrayed, is finely and accurately touched 
 
286 VISIT TO THE GRAVE 
 
 by the writer ; and whenever mention is made of 
 him it is in terms of distinguished respect, 
 
 I am free to confess indeed that on my first open* 
 ing ' Waverley' that best, perhaps, of those singular- 
 ly happy and entertaining productions which have of 
 late flowed from the pen of some mysterious Un- 
 known,* and finding that the venerated Gardiner 
 was brought upon the tapis for the purpose of play- 
 ing some conspicuous part, — I was fearful that in 
 the jostling and collision of events which it was na- 
 tural to anticipate, — all that respect might not be 
 shewn to his character which it justly claims ; and 
 that possibly its dignity might be lowered amid the 
 changeful scenes in which he would be made to 
 act. But in this, I did injustice to the designs of 
 the excellent author in question. The simple, un- 
 altered character of Gardiner, — in itself sufficiently 
 romantic — he clearly saw to be admirably adapted 
 to the genius of his conceived work ; and availing 
 himself of its native proportions, he has brought it to 
 bear with striking effect upon a variety of particular 
 incidents, as well as upon the general fabric and tis- 
 sue of his story. The remarks passed upon colonel 
 G. when his name first occurs in one of the 
 introductory chapters of Waverley, cannot fail to 
 awaken a strong interest in him, in the bosom of the 
 
 * The above remarks were written at a time when the public 
 mind was divided as to the author of Waverley and the other 
 < Scotch novels,' so called. It is unnecessary to add, that at 
 present, there is no shadow of reasonable doubt that the writer 
 is any other than Sir Walter Scott. 
 
OF COL. GARDINER. 287 
 
 reader. The danger depicted to have happened to 
 him on the eve of preparation for engaging with 
 the rebels, when, mounted on a gallant steed and 
 distinguished by his commanding form, he rode lei- 
 surely over the battle-ground, and inspected the ene- 
 my's position, — deepens the solicitude which we are 
 made to feel in his behalf. And in the detail of the 
 events of that fatal day which transmitted him to his 
 immortal crown, this solicitude is still further aug- 
 mented ; and concern for his welfare divides, and 
 for an interval, well nigh engrosses all our sympa- 
 thies. With a painful interest the imagination fol- 
 lows him through the perils which fast thickened 
 around him : and when at length the author paints 
 the death-scene, when he represents the hero as 
 falling covered with wounds and sinking under the 
 tide of battle, so powerfully does he appeal to the 
 finer sensibilities within us, that cold must that heart 
 be which does not swell with unwonted emotion — 
 unmelting that eye which is not moistened with a 
 tear* of sympathising sorrow. 
 
 But I must bring my remarks to a close. From 
 some early association, I know not how acquired, 
 every thing which recals the remembrance of the 
 subject of the foregoing reflections, I dwell upon 
 with a kindling satisfaction ; and the very name of 
 Gardiner exerts a magic influence over my heart 
 
 * A stroke with a Lochaber axe is supposed to have inflicted 
 the mortal wound. A weapon of this name is shewn in the 
 Tower of London said to be the self-same instrument which 
 occasioned the colonel's death. 
 
288 VISIT TO THE GRAVE OF COL. GARDINER. 
 
 and feelings. It is an influence to which I am wil- 
 ling to submit. For never can I contemplate the 
 brightness of his example from the period when re- 
 ligion first found a lodgment within his bosom, with- 
 out perceiving a new lovelmess in christian piety. 
 Never can I reflect on his unshaken firmness of 
 soul, his magnanimity in the hour of death, without 
 silently ejaculating, ' Let me die the death of that 
 righteous man.' And never can I ponder the prin- 
 ciple which lent him support in that awful juncture, 
 without breathing an impassioned aspiration that the 
 same principle may sustain my own soul in the near 
 prospect of the future world, and point out to my 
 own, as to his enraptured gaze, — ' The chariot of 
 Israel and the horsemen thereof 
 
 It was not until the day had far declined, that my 
 friend and myself completed our walk over the 
 scenes I have attempted to sketch. We reached 
 Musselburgh in convenient season to insure a con- 
 veyance to the city in the evening coach. We left 
 that village as the sun's parting rays glanced upon 
 the ridge of the Pentlands. It was an enchanting 
 evening. The clouds which canopied the setting 
 luminary were decked with gorgeous colourings. 
 The air wafted a balmj'^ fragrance ; and the face of 
 nature around smiled with the returning signs of 
 vernal freshness and verdure. An hours ride 
 brought us to the end of our stage, and we alighted 
 at our quarters in the New Town. 
 
 Edinburgh, March, 1817. 
 
PILGRIMAGE 
 
 TO 
 
 
 AND 
 
 DRYBURGH ABBIES. 
 
 »6 
 
^la^miMA© 
 
 TO 
 
 MELROSE AND DRYBURGH ABBIES, 
 
 JULY, 1817. 
 
 A FEW days ago, being then on the eve of my final 
 departure from Scotland, I made an hasty excursion 
 into Tweeddale. My object was twofold. 1 was 
 desirous of viewing Melrose Abbey ruins, and also of 
 paying my respects to the noble proprietor of Dry- 
 burgh, who had honoured me with repeated invita- 
 tions to visit him at his manor on Tweedside. 
 
 I left Edinburgh in a morning coach for Selkirk, 
 and traced thus far a route familiar to me. About 
 six or seven miles from Selkirk, where the Tweed 
 first makes its appearance, I entered upon the Scot- 
 tish Arcadia. Under this appellation may be com- 
 prehended the whole of that lovely tract of country 
 which begins with the sources of the Yarrow, Et- 
 trick and Teviot waters, and following the windings 
 of those streams until their junction with Tweed, 
 next spreads itself along the margin of the latter 
 through the remainder of its course. The scenery 
 within this district is distinguished for its romantic 
 and pastoral beauties; and to these the muse has 
 
nZ PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 added new charms by the many interesting associa- 
 tions in which she has invested them. 
 
 From the place where Tweed came in sight, the 
 road followed its bank for several miles. It parted 
 from it a mile or two distant from Selkirk, and 
 shortly after crossed the river Ettrick, not far from 
 its union with the other stream. The town of Sel- 
 kirk is pleasant. It is situated on an eminence ; and 
 to one approaching it from the north is a fine ob- 
 ject. 
 
 Leaving the coach at Selkirk, and having ordered 
 dinner at a late hour, I rambled out to survey what- 
 ever of interest I might find in the environs. Re- 
 crossing the Ettrick, I struck into a footpath on the 
 left, which was seen threading its way through the 
 green sward which carpeted the borders of the 
 stream. In the meanderings of this stream there 
 was a peculiar prettiness. Its waters, too, were ve- 
 ry limpid ; and these sparkled in the sun-beam as 
 they brawled petulantly along, and hurried over the 
 few obstacles which they encountered in their 
 course. The Ettrick abounds with excellent trout j 
 and during the walk I passed several men who were 
 angling for them. Along the riverside are fine ver- 
 dant meadows, and fields which are beginning to 
 wave with an abundant harvest. — I know not how it 
 happened, but there was something connected with 
 the appearance of the Ettrick which carried me 
 back forcibly in imagination to the banks of the 
 dearly-loved stream which flows through my native 
 Tillage. For a moment I forgot that 3000 miles in- 
 
AND DRYBURGH ABBIES. 293 
 
 tervened between me and home. Distance was no 
 longer remembered. Years too rolled back ; the 
 halcyon scenes of my boyish sports rushed vividly 
 to my mind ; and I almost fancied that I was again 
 
 treading upon the margin of the peaceful N , 
 
 where 
 
 Oft my careless childhood strayed, 
 A stranger yet to pain. 
 
 The illusion was of short continuance, but it left 
 an impression on my feeUngs which served greatly 
 to heighten the interest of surrounding scenes. Hav- 
 ing walked two miles or more along the Ettrick, I 
 came to its confluence with Yarrow, and obtained 
 my first view of that romantic little stream. It is 
 somewhat smaller than the Ettrick, but rolls its clear 
 and rapid current through as pretty a channel. Its 
 banks are fringed with copse-wood; the bougls of 
 which dip in the water, as if wooing the stream 
 which lends them support. 
 
 Yarrow joined the Ettrick on the side by which 
 I walked ; and leaving the latter, I then followed 
 the course of the former stream. 1 he path con- 
 ducted me to a very neat stone bridge, which com- 
 municates with Bowhill, a noble estate, with plea- 
 sure-grounds, belonging to the duke of Buccleugh. 
 I crossed to the other side, and surveyed the grounds. 
 They are laid out with taste, and are planted at in- 
 tervals with noble ibrest trees. — Pursuing my walk 
 a mile or two further, I arrived at a venerable and 
 
 25 * 
 
294 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 statel^y ruin which occupies a commanding position 
 upon one of the braes of Yarrow. This was New- 
 ark's Tower; the same to which Scott makes the 
 Minstrel arrive, who sung his last Lay to the hos- 
 pitable proprietors of this then proud baronial pile. 
 The tower is square and lofty : in the walls are ma- 
 ny loop-holes, and a few narrow window-spaces, 
 long since un-latticed, which contribute to give a 
 very dreary and cheerless aspect to the whole struc- 
 ture. The walls of the main entrance are greatly 
 dilapidated. 
 
 The pond'rous gate and massy bar, 
 Which once roird back the tide of war, 
 
 have long since crumbled into ruin. At present, in 
 place of the ancient portal, is only a wooden wicket, 
 which opens into an area, which a neighbouring 
 peasant has appropriated for a sheep-fold. 
 
 The scenery in the immediate vicinity is very 
 picturesque. I looked round for the ' lowly bow- 
 er' of the Minstrel, and the ' little garden trimmed 
 with green ;' but though I saw several cots, and as 
 many neatly cultivated enclosures, any one of which 
 might once have been the property of the bard, 
 there was no one which 1 felt absolutely authorized 
 to identify as his. Yarrow, however, as it gushed 
 merrily through the green-wood, seemed to prolong 
 the minstrels melody; and a kindred bard might 
 perhaps have recognised in its gurgling, the blith- 
 some echo of the Lav. 
 
AND DRYBURGH AliBIES. 295 
 
 It was not till evening had set in, that I thought 
 of retracing my steps to Selkirk. With a feeling of 
 regret, 1 commenced my homeward walk ; and about 
 dusk, reached my lodgings, after a romantic ramble 
 of nine miles. 
 
 On the following morning I walked to Melrose, a 
 few miles distant from Selkirk. The road lay along 
 Tweaddale, scarcely leaving the bank of the river, 
 and then only diverging for a few yards. The val- 
 ley was exceedingly beautiful, and answered well 
 the anticipations which t had formed of its attrac- 
 tions from the high panegyrics which 1 had often 
 heard lavished upon it. The Tweed even here, is 
 not a large, but it is a very respectable and showy 
 stream. It abounds with substantial comforts too : 
 salmon being plenty in its waters, as well as several 
 other species of the finny tribes. Of the former, 
 numbers were seen sporting near the surface of the 
 river, and occasionally leaping from its limpid 
 wave. 
 
 The village of Melrose is neat and compact, plea- 
 santly situated on Tweedside, at the feet of the Eil- 
 don hills. The celebrated Abbey adjoins, and over- 
 looks the town. It is moulderina: into ruin. Lar^e 
 portions of the wall, much of the roof, and several 
 of the old towers have fallen in. Grass and small 
 shrubs are growing luxuriantly upon the tops of 
 such parts of the edifice as remain entire. I ascend- 
 ed one of the most perfect of the towers, — an un- 
 dertaking attended with little pleasure, and conside- 
 rable hazard. 
 
296 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 Seen from any point of view the tout ensemble of 
 the structure is solemn and impressive. It is impos- 
 sible to approach and witness it without strong and 
 deep emotion. So often however has the Abbey 
 been described by tourists that it needs no further 
 comment, even for the sake of refreshing my own 
 memory. I merely add, therefore, that in explor- 
 ing the several parts of the Abbey, 1 could not for- 
 get the grave of Michael Scott. The guide, in lead- 
 ing me to it, conducted me by the very aisle, along 
 which 
 
 With snow-white stoles and order due, 
 The holy Fathers two and two 
 In long procession came. 
 
 Many stories of the exploits of Michael Scott are 
 current in this section of the country. It is believed 
 that he was buried in the Abbey of Melrose, though 
 in what part of it is not so easy to determine with 
 precision. To ascertain the actual spot of his in- 
 terment, recourse has been had to a tradition of 
 long standing. This certifies, that at a certain hour 
 in the day the sun shines directly upon the grave of 
 the wizard. Accordingly, when Walter Scott visit- 
 ed the Abbey for the purpose of deciding upon a 
 tomb which he might assume as Michael's, and re- 
 fer to as such, in his contemplated poem, the guide, 
 (and he was the same who attended me, and who 
 was my informant) reminded him of the popular le- 
 gend, and pointed his attention to one on which the 
 sun then chanced to shine through a mouldering 
 
AND DRYBURGH ABBIES. 2W 
 
 arch. The selection, it appears., was satisfactory, 
 more especially as there was no inscription upon 
 the stone which covered the grave; and thus the 
 latter might belong to any other person as well as 
 Michael Scott, and to Michael Scott as to any other 
 person. 
 
 It was not a little amusing to mark the self-com- 
 placency with which this piece of information was 
 given me. How far the ingenuity of the guide, in 
 fact, aided the researches of the poet, I undertake 
 not to judge. At any rate, it would be a pity to de- 
 prive him of the satisfaction of rehearsing to a thou- 
 sand visiters to come, as to the thousands who have 
 been shown the Abbey heretofore, his own agency 
 in determining a choice so vastly important ; and of 
 winding up the account with a sly glance and signifi- 
 cant shrug, which, construed into plain EngUsh, is 
 as much as to say, 
 
 'Twas /, said the fl}', 
 With my little eye. 
 
 The grave of Michael, according to the above 
 tx cathedra decision is in the eastern end of the Ab- 
 bey. Near it, is the space where the altar former- 
 ly stood, and where the ' mitred abbott,'' stretched 
 his hand when he blessed the pilgrims who went in 
 procession to Melrose, to appease the troubled 
 sprite of Michael Scott. I should add that at the 
 time of my viewing the wizard's tomb, the sun was 
 shining full upon it : in the same manner, the guide 
 said, as when Walter Scott visited it, on the occa- 
 
298 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 sion related. Of course, this circumstance was sup- 
 posed to increase marvellously my gratification ; 
 notwithstanding that the aperture in the Abbey walls 
 was sufficiently wide to admit of a broad glare of 
 light being thrown upon a dozen other graves of 
 equal size with that of Michael. 
 
 I inquired of the conductor, if the common peo- 
 ple about believe that there are ghosts which still 
 tenant the Abbey ? He replied that they might as 
 well believe this, as the many stories which he 
 knew that they actually do credit respecting Michael 
 Scott. ' What,' said I, ' do they fancy that Michael 
 walks V — ' Aye, aye,' said he, ' all that, and much 
 more ;' ' but,' he then added with a very knowing 
 look, ' but^ we have no ghosts about here excepting 
 such as we make ourselves.' By we^ 1 suppose he 
 meant Himself & Co., who are in the habit of con- 
 ducting strangers over the Abbey ; but the process 
 employed in the manufacture of these spirits, he did 
 not see fit to mention. 
 
 But whether or not the ghost of Michael still 
 walks, certain it is that no stranger presumes to visit 
 Melrose without leaving an offering at his shrine ; — 
 a silver offering too, — which now-a-days passes in 
 the shape of a vulgar perquisite to the attending 
 guide, who in this respect acts as factor to the 
 weird shade, and takes, very religiously, an account 
 of the avails. This oblation generally answers the 
 pious purpose in view : and it is pleasing to observe 
 how at such a time each cloud is chased from the 
 brow of the worthy representative of Michael, and 
 
AND DRYBURGH ABBIES. 299 
 
 how, too, his whole countenance brightens as with 
 a sun-beam, when the glittering head of king 
 George, encased in the silver rim of a half-crown, 
 crosses his willing hand. 
 
 Having taken such refreshments at the little inn 
 in Melrose as befitted a pilgrim to the Scottish Lo- 
 retto, I continued my walk three miles further to 
 Eildon Newton, a small village near the Tweed. 
 Not far from there a ferry is established, by which 
 I crossed the river and found myself within the 
 grounds of the Earl of Buchan. At a short distance 
 from the ferry, his lordship is constructing at great 
 expence a chain bridge, which, when completed, 
 will prove of great utility, it being the only one, 
 with a single exception, for a number of miles. 
 
 A most charming walk of an half mile through 
 grounds which were decked with the richest cultiva- 
 tion, brought me to the mansion of Dryburgh. 
 Both the earl and countess were at home, and gave 
 me a flattering reception. At the abbey I had the 
 
 pleasure of meeting also with the Rev. Mr. F , 
 
 rector of Woolwich near London, and youngest bro- 
 ther of the countess, who, with his lady and child, 
 had come down a little before to pass a month at 
 Dryburgh. — Several of the neighbouring gentry 
 paid morning calls at the Abbey, among whom was 
 a titled Indy. These calls I find have much less of 
 formality and parade, at this distance in the country, 
 than in town. In the latter, the quintessence of 
 comfort in paying a morning visit, consists in driving 
 furiously to the door of a house, sending a powder- 
 
^06 KLGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 ed footman to ring the bell violently, beat a tattoo 
 on the knocker, and then throw a card into the hall ; 
 after which, when breathless with haste he has re- 
 mounted his stand, the carriage moves rapidly off, 
 and the visiter, besides the consciousness of having 
 discharged a bounden duty according to the best 
 rules of good breeding, enjoys the exquisite satisfac- 
 tion of having given or received great honour. 
 
 Before the hour of dming the earl proposed a 
 walk over a part of the grounds. His lordship's 
 lands are not very extensive ; but they are situated 
 in the finest possible manner, being on a peninsula 
 formed by a reach of the Tweed, and almost com- 
 pletely surrounded by it. The earl has covered 
 this point with every thing adapted to the climate, 
 virhich cultivation or the hand of art could annex to 
 the original beauties of nature. There are several 
 pretty hamlets, and a number of detached cottages 
 scattered over the grounds, occupied of course by 
 his lordship's tenantry. Dryburgh house is a spa- 
 cious building, very respectable in appearance, but 
 no ways particularly fine or showy. Its architecture 
 is modern, and with the exception of turrets at the 
 angles of the central and main part of the edifice, 
 there is nothing antique about it, — nor any thmg 
 which distinguishes it from the mansion of any inde- 
 pendent country gentleman. The building is almost 
 completely imbosomed with trees. It stands about 
 an hundred yards distant from the noble remains of 
 a once proud abbey, which at present gives name to 
 the whole of lord Buchan's grounds, as well as to the 
 modern mansion. 
 
AND DRYBURGH ABBIES. 3«1 
 
 This abbey, or monastery, in the days of its glory 
 was held by an abbot and fifty-two monks. It is of 
 great antiquity. The conventual part remains still 
 in tolerable preservation — such as the cloisters, the 
 dormitory, and refectory. In this respect it differs 
 much from other structures of a similar kind : for 
 when papacy was abolished in Great Britain, and 
 convents where disfranchised, the chapel, and in gene- 
 ral the chapel alone, was kept in repair^ and reserv- 
 ed as a place of worship for the neighbouring inhabi- 
 tants, whilst the other parts of the edifice were 
 suffered to go to decay. Of the chapel of Dry- 
 burgh Abbey, however, only portions remain ; and 
 those are in a very ruinous condition. The earl 
 conducted me over each part of the pile, and pointed 
 my attention to every thing of interest connected 
 with it. Several traditionary legends which he re- 
 lated, illustrative of the characters and lives of some 
 of the former inmates of the monastery, were highly 
 amusing. 
 
 In the square of the cloisters, his lordship has 
 planted and trained against the walls, peach, cherry, 
 and other fruit trees, which grow very vigorously. 
 They form a good substitute for the vine^ which im- 
 memorially has been held in great canonical repute 
 among the various monastic orders, and the fruit of 
 which, doubtless, often cheered the hearts of the 
 abbot and monkish fraternity of Dryburgh. — In a 
 niche near the entrance into these cloisters, sur- 
 mounted by a Saxon arch, is a bust of the present 
 
 26 
 
302 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 earl of B. fine sculptured, and taken six years ago, 
 when he was 69 years of age. 
 
 Adjacent to the abbey ruin, is a cemetery, which 
 originally belonged to the convent, and which, by 
 his lordship's permission, is now used as a place of 
 interment for his tenantry. It is planted with firs, 
 larches, hollies and yews. Some of the latter are 
 of great age and size, and they all contribute to 
 throw over the spot an air of solemn gloom. — 
 There are several walks in the cemetery ; and 
 among these a person may stray at noon-day, when 
 not a sound would occur to interrupt the profound 
 stillness, nor a single sun-beam find admission through 
 the deep screen, formed by the intervening branches 
 of the trees. 
 
 I was pleased with seeing in the dining room of 
 Dryburgh a highly finished portrait of general Wash- 
 ington, which that great man had sent to lord B. as 
 a mark of courtesy and regard. His lordship's col- 
 lection of paintings, both at the abbey and his town 
 house, is numerous. Many of them are executed 
 by the first masters, and are very fine. The earl's 
 taste for the fine arts is well known in the metropo- 
 lis. He is there accounted the Maecenas of the 
 corps of painters ; and having a finely shaped head, 
 and features very handsome and expressive, there 
 is scarcely an artist of note, who has not sued for 
 the honour of taking his portrait. The best which 
 I have seen, are those executed by Raeburn and 
 Wilson. The earl several months ago gave me a 
 
AND DRYBURGH ABBIES. 303 
 
 cameo miniature of himself, very neatly finished, 
 which is a striking' likeness. 
 
 Lord B. has a great taste for letters as well as the 
 fine arts. He has himself entered the lists as an au- 
 thor; and his life of Napier, and a volume or two of 
 Essays which he has puhlished, are very ingeni- 
 ous and entertaining. — His library is extensive and 
 valuable In the collection of MSS. are some pa- 
 pers highly curious and interesting, which 1 had the 
 privilege of inspecting. One of them was an origi- 
 nal poem by Thompson, which had been given to the 
 earl, together with some other writings of that sweet- 
 est of bards, by lord Littleton, who, if I mistake 
 not, was one of his executors. Love was the sub- 
 ject of the poem ; and the author having indulged too 
 far in a strain of loose and immodest thought, the 
 piece had never been permitted to find a place 
 among his other publications. The chirography 
 was no ways elegant ; and the letters in fact were 
 large and rather scrawling. The hand indeed was 
 much like a school-boy's ; and it is probable that 
 the whole performance was executed in very early 
 life. Many lines, and more words, particularly at 
 the commencement of the poem, had been erased to 
 give place to others, which the cooler judgment of 
 the author suggested. In the last twelve or sixteen 
 lines, however, there was scarcely a single blot. 
 
 Lord Buchan showed me also, a letter which he 
 received from his brother. Lord Erskine, about the 
 year 1780, (if I remember the date correctly,) in 
 answer to one which hi$ lordship had written re- 
 
S04 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 questing an account, con amore^ of the dispositions and 
 characters of Lord E.'s children. There was a vein 
 ©f very pleasant humour, and sportive description in 
 the sketches which were returned ; but the most re- 
 markable part of the letter was the apology which 
 introduces it, stating the reasons for not having ac- 
 knowledged and replied to the letter of Lord Bo 
 sooner. Lord Erskine wrote, that for the two or 
 three months previously he had been so inundated 
 with business that scarcely an hour had been left to 
 him for repose : ' business,' he added, — ' so great 
 as had never before fallen to a barrister since 
 Wilham Rufus built Westminster Hall.' — He added, 
 that that very year, without office, or the receiving 
 a single farthing beyond the just gains accruing from 
 his professional labours, he had the prospect of clear- 
 ing 10,000/. or 44,400 dollars, an immense sum in- 
 deed, at that time. When he was made Lord Chan- 
 cellor, he was in the regular annual receipt from the 
 profits of his profession, of 14,000/. sterling. 
 
 After tea, in the drawing room, the countess and 
 Mr. F. seated themselves to a hand of piquet, in 
 which they invited me to join them ; but knowing 
 very little of the game, — in fact having never dipped 
 into Hoyle, — 1 was unwilling to become a pupil 
 on the present occasion ; and accordmgly accepted 
 an invitation from the earl, as the evening was very 
 beautiful, to walk with him to a part of the grounds 
 to which he had not before conducted me. We ex- 
 tended our walk to an emmence about a mile dis- 
 
AND DRYBURGH ABBlES. 30a 
 
 tant from the Abbey, whereon his lordship has 
 erected a colossal statue of the celebrated Scottish 
 hero, Wallace. The hill is very commanding; and 
 is clothed with hangmg woods, excepting a space 
 near the summit, which was left open for the statue. 
 The latter is a gigantic figure, finely proportioned, 
 of the height of twenty one or two feet, and stand- 
 ing on a pedestal which is ten feet, so that it may be 
 seen distinctly for many miles around, and particular- 
 ly well, along the road from St. Bosweli's Green to 
 Melrose. The statue has been wrought out ofabiock 
 of freestone, of a peculiarly excellent kind, of which 
 the earl has a quarry. It is found on working, to 
 admit a polish and finishing resembhng marble. 
 From the eminence on which it stands, large dis- 
 tricts of one or two of the border counties of Eng- 
 land, are seen very clearly. 
 
 Happening to touch upon the subject of old age, 
 — his lordship having said, that, if I had arrived at 
 the Abbey two days sooner, i should have visited 
 him on his birth day, as he then completed his 75th 
 year ; — the earl was led to enlarge upon the topic, 
 and m a strain of sentiment which I could not but ad- 
 mire. He observed, that beyond a certain age, and 
 to that point he had now attained, a man might be 
 said to endure life, but, by no propriety of language 
 to enjoy it. It is most melancholy, he added, 
 to see a person at the advanced age of 70 or 80, 
 hoarding and fanning the last embers of life. He 
 quoted some appropriate passages, expressive of this 
 26 * 
 
306 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 sentiment, from the De Senectute of Cicero, a work 
 which, next to the volume of inspiration, he thought 
 ought to be the study of every one of his years, 
 who is capable of understanding the original. ' I can 
 conceive, however,' said his lordship ' of a person 
 surrounded by a numerous progeny of children and 
 grand-children, retaining unimpaired a fondness for 
 life, to a very late period, — both through a desire to 
 see them well established in different professions and 
 holding respectable standings in society, and to con- 
 tribute all in his power to promote these ends. But 
 for me, who have no lineal descendants over whose 
 fortunes to watch, no extraneous inducement for the 
 protraction of life remains. The rank to which I 
 was born brought me early upon the busy stage of 
 the world, as early as fifteen ; and from the age of 
 25, more properly, I began to fag; and fifty years 
 are a long while to fag. Satisfied as 1 am with this 
 world, my views now point to another and a bright- 
 er.' 
 
 I have given these remarks of the earl, as nearly 
 as I can recall them, with literal accuracy ; and per- 
 haps a passing comment may not be amiss. In early 
 life, his lordship was ambitious of making a figure in 
 the political world ; and he was happy in having a 
 friend and patron at court in the celebrated earl of 
 Chatham. From that nobleman he received several 
 distinguished proofs of confidence and regard, dur- 
 ing his minor age, (then Lord Cardross ;) and when 
 quite a young man, he had a diplomatic appointment, 
 being nominated to the second station in an important 
 embassy to some foreign court. His father dying 
 
AND DRYBURGII ABfelES. 5«7 
 
 about that time, and the earldom descending to him, 
 he dechned going abroad, and taking leave of public 
 life, retired to his estates in Scotland. The pa- 
 trimonial revenues accompanying the title which he 
 inherited, were comparatively small ; and they were 
 found to be greatly reduced either through the pro- 
 digality or the negligence of his father. The earl, 
 however, nothing daunted, set to work to clear his 
 estates from their incumbrances and embarrass- 
 ments^ and what with care, and thrift, and faithful 
 nursing, he has not only effected this, but rendered 
 them very productive, and now enjoys an ample in- 
 come. It is true that a life spent under these cir- 
 cumstances might seemingly pass for something else 
 than a toilsome and fagging existence ; but indepen- 
 dently of the earFs rural employments and literary 
 pursuits, his station in society has necessarily called 
 him into many of the stirring scenes of active life ; 
 and he has carried his habits of persevering industry 
 into all his avocations, and made them regulate his 
 entire deportment. 
 
 The poet who drew his pictures of men and man- 
 ners fresh from life, and all whose reflections are 
 marked with peculiar point and signiticancy, has ob- 
 served, ' how various his employments whom the 
 world calls idle :' His meaning obviously is that 
 what may appear to a casual eye, a life of ease, may 
 in fact be one of laborious exertion ; and the pur- 
 suits of a person even in the sequestered and noise- 
 less walks of society, are often found on a nearer in- 
 spection, to be something more than mere diffl- 
 ciles nugce. As respects the earl of B. he retains the 
 
368 PILGRIiMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 habits of systematic industry, which he formed in his 
 early years ; and to these, together with the regular 
 course of Hvmg which he has uniformly adhered to, 
 may be ascribed, under favour of Providence, the hale 
 and vigorous health which he is now enjoying, and 
 the almost youthful glow which his countenance 
 still wears. In town, during the winter months, his 
 lordship rises at peep of dawn, and is in the habit of 
 closing as well as beginning the day, betimes. In 
 this respect he differs widely from the countess, who 
 loves to figure in the brilliant evening circles of the 
 metropolis ; a contrast of tastes which I have sever- 
 al times heard his lordship speak of with much plea- 
 santry, comparing himself and ladyB, (making some 
 allowance indeed on the score of gender,j to Castor 
 and Pollux, the one existing solely in the day — the 
 other in the night. 
 
 The earl of B. is distinguished for some eccentri- 
 cities ; but where is the nobleman who is free from 
 them ? He is charged also with having not a little of 
 the leaven of vanity. That he has a dash of this, and 
 a pretty strong dash too, there is no denying. But 
 whatever an American with his republican notions 
 may think of it,. it would seem that a Scot ought to 
 regard the foible with indulgence, when he remem* 
 hers that the earl represents one of the most ancient 
 and noble houses in North Britain, and that the 
 blood of the illustrious race of Stuarts, and conse- 
 quently, (although partially,) of the royal line of 
 Brunswick, flows in his veins. — It is remarkable that 
 the present generation of the family have added 
 distm^uished lustre to the name. The second brc- 
 
AND DRYBURGII ABBIES. 309 
 
 therof the earl of B., the Hon. Henry Erskine, after 
 establishing his reputation at the bar as a profound 
 jurist, and eloquent advocate, was advanced to the 
 dignity of lord advocate of Scotland : — and the other 
 brother, the Hon. Thomas (now lord) Erskine, rais- 
 ed himself by the force of his transcendent taients 
 to the lord high chancellorship of the realm. The 
 earl has but one sister. She was married to the 
 earl of Glencairn; and that nobleman having died 
 without issue, and being the last of the name, 
 the title will become extinct on the death ot the 
 countess. The health of the Hon. H. Erskine 
 is declining very fast. The earl mentioned that he 
 had made him a recent visit ; and it was one of the 
 last, he feared, which he should ever make this side 
 of the grave. The eldest son of Mr. E. is pre- 
 sumptive heir to the estates and coronet of Bu- 
 chan.* 
 
 In returning with the earl from our walk to the 
 statue of Wallace, his lordship conducted me to the 
 abbey by a path which lay through the finest of his 
 grounds. There was a peculiar softness and beau- 
 ty in the evening. The western sky was hung 
 with clouds of golden splendour; and the declin- 
 ing sun burnished their borders with colours of richest 
 hue. The children of his lordship's tenants were 
 
 * The Hon. Henry Erskine died a short time after the date of 
 the above ; — the Right Hon. the Countess of Bachan about a 
 year subsequently. Her ladyship was a number of ytais youn- 
 ger than the earl. In early life she had been celebrated for her 
 lieauty. 
 
310 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE 
 
 sporting their gambols upon the little lawns around 
 their several hamlets ; and every thing wore the 
 aspect of content and peace and cheerfulness. 
 
 A prominent topic of conversation in the even- 
 ing was America, its civil polity and resources. 
 The earl has turned his attention very much to 
 these subjects, and has watched with interest the 
 progress of affairs in the United States, ever since 
 the revolution. One of the earl's ancestors, lord 
 Fairfax, was a proprietor in the South Carolina 
 grant or patent ; and independently of this family 
 connection, if i may so speak, with the United 
 States, his lordship has ever been a firm and tem- 
 perate advocate of civil freedom, and has accord- 
 ingly viewed with admiration the simple but effi- 
 cient operations of the federal republican consti- 
 tution of the States. The earl opened a corres- 
 pondence With Washington, Franklin, and Jeffer- 
 son, — names venerated by every American citizen, 
 and of which imperial Rome might have been proud. 
 I have seen the originals of many, if not all, the 
 letters in reply. Those of Washington are highly 
 interesting. Thej'^ are all deposited with Dr. Ro- 
 bert Anderson of Edinburgh, another ardent friend 
 of the United States, and a gentleman well known 
 to the public for his various literary productions, 
 especially his elegant biography of the British 
 poets. 
 
 Something was said respecting the reported ces- 
 sion of the island of Lampedoza by the Neapoli- 
 tans to the Americans — a rumour which has of 
 
AND DRYBURGH ABBIES. 311 
 
 late excited considerable comment and speculation 
 in Edinburgh, and which has been appealed to by 
 some, in proof of an ambitious pohcy on the part 
 of the United States, and a spirit of aggrandize- 
 ment, ill becoming a repubUc of such modest pre- 
 tensions. Admitting the report to be true, the 
 earl of B. strongly reprobated the measure. I 
 suggested the obvious advantage that would ac- 
 crue to the States from the possession of an island 
 or some small territory in the Mediterranean, 
 which might serve lor a permanent naval station, 
 and a place of refitment and supplies to our squad- 
 ron appointed to cruise in that sea, for the pur- 
 pose of overawing the Barbary Regencies. The 
 earl, however, was unwiUing to acknowledge that 
 there could be much utility, whatever of seeming 
 convenience there might be, in having such a de- 
 pot ; at least, he thought that the probable evils 
 more than counterbalanced the expected benefits. — 
 ♦ No, no ;' said he, pursuing the subject with much 
 earnestness of manner, ' your nation must think of 
 no Lampedozas — must indulge no wish of attain- 
 ing a single rood of European soil. You have ter- 
 ritory enough now, and should live independently 
 of the rest of the world. You have only to mul- 
 tiply facilities of intercourse between one portion 
 and another of your common country, by opening 
 canals, extending your highw.ays, and rendermgyour 
 rivers more navigable ; and then may the western 
 states furnish ready supplies for those of the At- 
 lantic, the north may continue to trade with the 
 south; and drawing your subsistence from your- 
 
312 PILGRIMAGE TO MELROSE, &c. 
 
 selves, you will fast rise to opulence and power, 
 and become a second China.' 
 
 It was late before we separated for the night. — 
 From the windows of my chamber I caught a par- 
 tial but strikmg view, through the moonlight, of 
 the mouldering walls and dismantled towers of the 
 abbey ruin. Its appearance on the following 
 morning, in connection with numerous other ob- 
 jects of beauty and interest around, was very grand. 
 
 On the succeeding day, after breakfast, I left 
 Dryburgh with regret that my engagements pre- 
 cluded my protracting my stay at it longer, and 
 sensibly touched by the many courtesies of the 
 earl and countess of Buchan. The former, from 
 the time of my introduction to him, has honoured 
 me with distinguished attentions, nor is it among 
 the least of my regrets on leaving Scotland, that I 
 shall never agam have an opportunity of enjoying 
 a personal intercourse wuth this nobleman. 
 
 1 was ferried across the river in a boat belong- 
 ing to the abbey ; and then proceeded on foot to 
 St. Boswell's green, a village a mile or two dis- 
 tant, through which the coach for Edinburgh was 
 to pass. Arriving there some time before it was 
 expected, I pursued my walk to Melrose, which I 
 reached a few minutes only in advance of the ve- 
 hicle. Nothing material occurred during the re- 
 mainder of my route to Edinburgh. The day was 
 jBae, and the ride was pleasant. 
 
 END. 
 
Aiin 
 
 ^'L? .<^