II Class Book COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT • ■ /'J Rider's WASHINGTON A Guide-Book for Travelers RIDER'S GUIDES Ready: Rider's NEW YORK CITY Rider's BERMUDA Rider's WASHINGTON In Preparation: Rider's NEW ENGLAND Rider's CALIFORNIA Rider's FLORIDA Rider's WEST INDIES Rider's WASHINGTON A GUIDE BOOK for TRAVELERS with 3 maps and 22 plans Compiled under the general editorship of FREMONT RIDER BY DR. FREDERIC TA B E R COOPER NEW YORK HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY 1922 VI Copyright, 1922 by The Rider Press, Inc. The contents of this volume are fully pro- tected by copyrig-ht, both in the United States and in foreign countries, and infringe- ments thereof will be vigorously prosecuted. rfm '^3 Printed in the United States of America SEP 25 '22 ^ ©ClACy€270 X PREFACE ^ Following New York, Washington of all our cities is most obviously deserving of adequate guidebook treatment. Soon after the issuance of "Rider's New York City," the first in this series of "American Baedekers," therefore, editorial work was begun on the Washington volume. The war temporarily necessitated some postponement of plan, but actual field work was completed early this year. The problems met with in the preparation of the "New York" volume had to be solved again with the "Washington'' guide in peculiarly accentuated form. New York is in a constant state of flux; but the last three years in Washington have witnessed an unprecedented growth, with attendant dis- location and relocation — all particularly disconcerting to the maker of guidebooks. The bibliography of Washington is of course extensive, but authorities of eciual standing disagree astonishingly when one attempts to run down specific antiquarian details. Fol- lowing the precedent of the New York volume, moreover, every endeavor was made to secure information or verification of every item at first hand, and this has meant an amount of first hand research not easy to appreciate. As in the case of "Rider's Bermuda," the actual labor of compilation in the present volume has been largely in the hands of Dr. Frederic Taber Cooper, to whose painstaking- enthusiasm and critical sense whatever excellence it may pos- sess is largely due. The Editor desires, however, to express his indebtedness to the many others who have assisted in the work of compila- tion, and particularly to: Miss Florence A. Huxley, who read much of the volume in proof and also prepared the index ; to his sister-in-law, Mrs. Lyman B. Swormsted, formerly treasurer-general of National Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution and a Washingtonian of many years standing, who went over the data on the D.' A. R. headquarters building and gave invaluable advice in the annotation of the m.aterial on Shops, Clubs, Hotels and other sections of the introduction ; to Dr. Herbert Putnam, Librarian of Congress, and H. H. B. Meyer, Chief Bibli- ographer, who assumed responsibility for the correc- tion of the material relative to that 'building; to the Rand, McNally Co. for their co-operation in the making of viii RIDER'S WASHINGTON the maps and for the use ot two of their floor plans; to his cousin, Mr. Gerrit Smith Miller, Curator of the Department of Mammals of the Smithsonian Institution, for most cordial assistance in securing co-operation in the correction of the great mass of material relating to that institution and its various museums ; to Biro. Anthony S. F. M., of the Commis- sariat of the Holy Land, for the revision of material relative to the Franciscan Monastery; to Dr. William Tindall, for many years secretar>^ to the Commission of the District of Columbia, and an old (resident and enthusiastic student of Washington lore, for his courtesy in reading and revising many of the street sections, as well as the historical and other general isections; to C. Powell Minnigerode, Director of the Corcoran x^rt Gallery, who revised the Corcoran data, and to Elliott Woods, the Architect of the Capitol, w^ho did the same work for that building; to his brother-in-law. Major Stuart C. Godfrey, C. E., U. S. A., far suggestions on material relat- ing to the War Department buildings; to Lieut. Col. C. O. Sherrill, C. E., U. S. A., for reading the White House ma- terial, that building being imder his jurisdiction ; to W. A. Reid, Trade Adviser of the Pan-American Union, who read proof on the Pan-American Building: to Miss Ellen M. Brown, John Keller, of the staff of the Washington Evening Star, and Robert B. McClean, Business Manager of the Consolidated Press in Washington, all of whom assisted in the compilation ')f the Preliminary material ; to Herbert P. Williams, who gave helpful aid in the collection of material; to George F. Bower- man, Librarian of the Carnegie Public Library of Washington, for his unflagging interest and many helpful suggestions as well as for the special privileges he extended in the use of the library's unique collection of Washingtoniana ; and to Leonard C. Gunnell, of the Smithsonian Institution, who generously proffered much valuable advice. Acknowledgment should also be made of the help received from a large number of local histories and monographs (See the Bibliography) ; also more specifically to the following works, which have been of special service: The two recent standard Histories of Washington, by W. B. Bryan and Dr. William Tindall, respectively; the Records of the Columbia Historical Society, Which have been of great aid, especially regarding the old residential section : Early Days of JVash- inc/ton, by Sally S. Mackall, containing many sidelights on early Georgetown history; and Mount Vernon, by Paul WMl- stach, a wcllnigh indispensable source book of the local history of the home of W'ashington. PREFACE ix To be a guide-book of genuine and practical use to thef traveler it is of course necessary, as was remarked in the preface to the "New York" volume, to discriminate, and this means not merely to select the good from the bad, but to en- deavor to give each proper values. With every effort to make just appraisal, error of judgment and differences ot opinion are of course natural. It need hardly be said, however, that no remuneration of any sort, direct or indirect, has secured favorable notice in this guide-book. As in the Baedeker series, which has been frankly taken as a model, the better class, or especially noteworthy, has been indicated by an asterisk [*]. The Editor is still sure "that only one who has attempted to compile a guide-book out of whole cloth, as it were, com- pletely appreciates the complexity of the task and the infinite opportunity for error which it affords. He realizes, therefore, the imperfections and hiatuses of this work more clearly prob- ably than will its severest critics ; and he will most cordially welcome corrections and suggestions from any source for its improvement in succeeding editions." That this volume is not fu'Uy worthy of its sulbject he has.no doubt; but it is at least offered as a sincere tribute to the capital city of which he, as an American citizen, is justly proud. The Editor. Glen Tor-on-Hudson May, 1922 To M. a s. Loyal Washingtonian With the affection and best wishes of the Editor ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS VOLUME acad. — academy adm. — Admiral Amer. — American apt. — ^Apartment arch. — architect assn. — association Rap. — Baptist bk. — bank, book bldg. — ^building blvd. — boulevard bur. — bureau, burial cem. — cemetery ch. — church CO. — company, county coll. — collection, college com. — commodore comm. — commission commr. — commissioner Cong. — Congregational ct. — court D. C. — District of Columbia dept. — department descrip. — description dist. — district E. — east engr. — engineer ethnol. — ethnological fed. — federal, federation gall. — gallery H. S.— High School Hgts. — Heights inst. — institute, institution is. — island L.— left Ibn. — librarian lib. — librarj^ loc. — location M. E. — Methodist Episcopal med. — medical mem. — memorial mi. — ^mile, miles mon. — monument mus. — museum Mt. — Mount N. — north nat. — national p. — page, pages P. E. — Protestant Episcopal P. S.— Public School ipk. — park pi. — place pres. — President Presb. — Presbyterian Pt.— Point R. — right R. C. — Roman Catholic R. R. — railroad Ref'd.— Reformed regt. — regiment res. — residence res't. — restaurant S. — south sculp. — sculptor sec. — secretary soc. — society sq. — square St. — street U. S.— United States univ. — university W. — west TABLE OF CONTENTS ♦ Introduction page I. General Description of Waslnngton xvii a. Topography of Washington, xvii; b. The Geology of Washington, xx. II. The History of Washington xxiii III. The Public Administration of Washington . . xxxvi IV. Washington Bi-bliography xxxviii Preliminary Information I. Arrival at Washington i a. At the Railroad Station, i ; b. At the Steamboat Docks, 2; c. Division of Material in this Guide Book, 2. II. Hotels and Other Accommodations 2 a. General Information, 2; b. Large and Expensive Hotels of the iplirst Rank, 3; c. Eastern Section: Capitol Grounds Vicinity, 4; d. Central Section: Pennsylvania Avenue, 4; e. Residential Section, 5; f . Furnished Ro'oms, 3 ; g. Suites and Furnished Apart- ments, 6; h. Boarding Houses, 6. HI. Restaurants and Tea Rooms 6 a. Capitol Gr&unds Section, 7; b. Central Section: Pennsylvania Avenue, 7;, c. Residential Section, 8; d. Tea Rooms and Cafeterias, 9. lY. Urban Travel 10 a. Surface Car Line?, 10; b. Taxicabs, 20; c. Motor Bus Lines, 20; d. Sight-seeing Cars. 21. V. Postal Facilities ; Telegraph and Cable Offices . . 22 a. Postal Facilities. 22; b. Telegraph and Cable Offices, 23. VI. Theatres, Concerts and Other Places of Entertain- Iment 24 Concerts and Other Musical Entertainments, 26. VII. Sports, Games, etc 26 VIII. Clubs '. 29 IX. Shops and Stores 31 X. Churches, Religious Services 33 xiv RIDER'S WASHINGTON PAGE XI. Lil)raries and Reading (Rooms Z7 XII. Aliscellaneous Services for the Traveller 40 a. Foreign Embassies and Legations, 40; b. Banks and Trust Companies, 42; c. Hospitals, 42.; d. Baths, r.arber Shops, etc. 43; e. Steamship and Steamboat Lines, 43; f. Newsipapers and Periodicals, 44. XIII. Planninig a Washington Stay 44 a. Distribution oi Time, 44; b. A Fourteen Days' Itinerary, 46; c. A Five Days' Itinerary, 49. Washington Northwest — The Central Section {From the Capitol to the White House) I. The National Capitol 50 a. Historj-, 50; b. The Building and Its Approaches, 53: c. The Rotunda and Dome, 60; d. The Supreme Court Rooms, 66; e. The Senate Wing, 69; f. The Ground Floor, 79; g. The House Wing, 83; h. Statuary Hall, 88. II. Pennsylvania Avenue from the Capitol to the White House 96 III. The White House iii I\'. Other Buildings in the Executive Grounds 122 a. The Treasury Building, 122; b. The State, War and Navy Building, 126. V. The Old Residential Section 131 (From C Street to Judiciary Square) VI. Th'te Modern Shopping District 141 a. F Street from North Capitol Street to the Treasury Building, 141; b. The Section Immediately North of F Street, 149; c. The Section Between F' Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, 151. Washington Northwest — The Residential Section (I-roin the Executive Grounds to Rock Creek) I. Seventeenth Street South 153 a. Seventeenth Street from Pennsylvania Avenue to Potomac Park, 153; b. The American Red Cross Build- ing. 154: c. D. A. R. Memorial Continental Hall, 155; (1. The Pan American L'nion Building, 162. II. The Corcoran Art Gallery 171 III. Lafayette Square 184 I\'. Sixteenth Street to Piney Branch Bridge 195 TABLE OF CONTENTS xv PAGE V. New York Avenue from the White House to the Naval Hospital 209 VI. Pennsylvania Avenue from the White House to Rock Creek 215 VH. Other Residential Avenues and Streets 219 a. Vermont Avenue, 219; b. ConnecticiU Avenue, 222; c. Massachusetts Avenue, 225; d. The Numbered Streets East of Sixteenth Street, 230; e. The Num- bered Streets West of Sixteenth Street, 234; f. I Street, 235; g. K Street from nth Street to Rock Creek, 237. Washington Southwest and the Mall I. The Mall from the Botanic Gardens to Fourteenth Street 240 a. The Botanic Gardens, 241; b. The (irant Memorial Monument, 242; c. The Bureau of Fisheries, 243; d. The Army Medical Museum, 247; e. The Agricul- tural Department Buildings, 252. II. The Smithsonian Institution — The Smithsonian Building 255 III. The Smithsonian Institution — The Natural His- tory Buildling 260 {Tlie "New" National Miiscitiu) a. General Description, 260; b. The \'e-tibule and North Pavilion, 263; c. The World W'ar Historical Collection, 266; d. The National Galle^ry of Art, 271: e. East Wing — Collection of Paleontology, 280; f. Ex- hibits of Ethnology. 288: g. Zoological Exhibits, 303; h. Miscellaneous Collections, 310. IV. The Smithsonian Institution — The Arts and In- dustries BuiUding- • • • . 3^2 V. The Smithsonian Institution — The Freer Gallery 339 VI. The Washington Monument 342 VII. From the Monument Grounds to the Arm\- W^ar College 348 VIII. The Lincoln Memorial 353 Washington Northeast I. North Capitol Street 356 (From the Capitol Grounds to Michigan Avenue) II. From the Capitol Grounds to the Columbia In- stitute . : Z^3 xvi RIDER'S WASHINGTON PAGE Washington Southeast I. The Library of Congress 369 a. General Description and Approadies, 370; b. The Main Entrance Hall, 375; c. The Mural Paintings, 2,T7\ d. The Rotunda, 398. II. From the Librarj^ oif Congress to the Congres- sional Cemetery 403 a. Washington Southeast, 403; b. The Congressional Cemetery, 408. III. Anacositia 412 The Northern and Western Suburbs I. Bladensburg. Brookland and Vicinity 414 a. Bladensburg, 414; b. The Catholic University of America, 416; c. The Franciscan Monastery, 423. II. Georgia Avenue to Takoma Park 430 HI. Connecticut Avenue from Rock Creek Bridge to Chevy Chase 440 IV. ^lassachusetts Avenue from Rock Creek to the District Line 442 \\ The National Zoo-logical Park 444 VI. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul 455 VII. Georgetown 462 a. ^r Street and the "Court End," 463; 1). Georgetown College, 467; c. The Convent of the Visitation, 473; d. Georgetown Heights, 476; e. Oak Hill Ceme- tery, 479. VIII. Cabin John Bridge and the Great Falls of the Potomac : 483 a. Cabin John Bridge, 483; b. The Great Falls of the Poto-mac, 484. The Virginia Suburbs I. Mt. Vernon 487 a. History of Mt. Vernon, 491; b. The Mansion Houi-e, 498; c. The Grounds, 501. II. Arlington Cemetery 504 III, Alexandria 512 IV. Pohick Church 523 Index INTRODUCTION I. General Description of Washington Washington, the Capital City of the United States, and according to the latest decennial census the fourteenth largest in population,* lies in the 83° 51' N. lat, and 17"" W. long., calculated at the Capitol, it is 40 mi. distant by rail from Bialtimore ; 228 mi. from New York; mo mi. from New Orleans; and 31 18 mi. from San Francisco. It is situated in and coextensive with the present District of Columibia, com- prising that portion of the original ten-mile square, N. of the Potomac River, which was left after the retrocession ■of the southern portion to Virginia. Its area (including land and water) is approximately 69^4 sq. mi. It is bounded on the northwest, northeast and southeast by the State of Mary- land, and on the southwest by the high-water line on the Virginia shore — ^since the whole width of the Potomac River is reckoned ternitorially within the District. a. The Topography of Washington Washington is exceptionally fortunate in having been almost completely planned in its present form before any of it^ streets were actually laid out (p. xxviii). Consequently, unlike London and Paris and the downtown portion of New York, no part of it grew up haphazard, pre- serving the memory of ancient roads and foot-paths. It is the result of an orderly and consistent design, combining the simplicity of the rectangular system with the picturesqueness of spacious, radiating avenues and splendid vistas. It has been variously described as a chess-board overlaid with cart wheels, and as Paris superimposed upon Philadelphia. In drafting this plan, the natural formation of the locality was dleverly utilized to the best possible advantage. The general features of the plan were later applied in extending the street system over those portions of the District of Columbia outside of the original city limits. Towards the north, and espe- cially above that part of the city w'hich was formerly George- town, is the highest ground within the District. The southern section of the city along the Potomac is a low level plain * By the census of 1920. the population of Washington was 437.571. while that of its nearest rival, Newark, was only 414 524, and Cin- cinnati 401 247. Recently, however, the population has fallen off con- siderably, and the city has probably dropped to i6th position. xviii RIDER'S WASHINGTON (p. xxii) ; but towards the east it rises abruptly in a ninety- foot terrace, the highest eminence of which, now known as Capitol Hill (p. 50), seemed foreordained to be the site of the Capitol building, whose noble dome dominates the land- scape from every side. Radiating from this center, North Capitol, East Capitol and South Capitol Streets, together with the succession of parks on the W.. known collectively as The Mall (p. 240), mark the four cardinal points of compass and divide the city into four sections or quarters, designated respectively as N. W., N. E., S. W. and S. E. (initials which should be added to any Washingon address, in order to avoid confusion; if they are omitted, the N. W. section is assumed to be meant). The streets parallel to North and South Capitol Sts. are named from the ordinal numbers : East and West First Street, East and West Second Street, etc., the furthest num- bered street to the E. being 31st St. and to the W. 26th St., within the old City limits. The numbers, however, continue in regular order beyond the Anacostia River, to the E., up to 63d St., at the N. E. cor. of the District, and beyond Rock Creek, to the W., up to 52d St., along the E. boundary of the Receiving Reservoir Grounds. (Some of the latter streets have not yet been cut through.) The streets parallel to East Capitol St. and the Mall are named from the letters of the alphabet: North and South A Street, North and South B Street, etc. It should be noted that there is no A Street N. W., or A St. S. W., since the Mall occupies the whole space between North and South B Sts., W. of the Capitol Grounds. Because of the danger of confusion with I St., the letter J was omitted; and because of the like possibility of mixing up I St. and ist St., Washingtonians frequently write the former ''Eye Street." The last lettered streets within the city limits are W St., on the N., and V St., on the S. (at Buzzard Point, E. of the War College). Beyond the Anacostia River, however, the lettered series terminates with W St. The proposition that has frequently been made of re- christening; the lettered streets with a series of names (pre- ferably of American Statesmen), arranged alphabetically after the manner of Boston's familiar Arlington, Berkeley, Clarend'jii, Dartmouth, etc., Sts., has never been seriously considered. But the visitor may remain for months in Wash- ington without even noticing that this is precisely the method followed in the naming of east-and-west streets lying beyond Nortli and South W Sts. For instance, going N.'on Georgia TOPOGRAPHY OP WASHINGTON xix Ave. we reach, beyond W St., a series beginning Adams, Bryant, Channing, etc., Sts., and ending with Webster St., beyond which a j:econd series begins with AlHson, Buchanan, Crittenden, etc., Sts., closing with Whittier St. ; while a third series follows, consisting this time of botanical names in place of famous Americans, namely : Aspen, Butternut, Cedar, etc., Sts., up to Poplar St., in the extreme northern corner of the District. Similar series will be found in the section N. of Georgetown, in the Benning section, in Anacostia, — in short, in practically all the suburban sections. The advantage, of -course, of this S3^stem is that it enables any one, b}' a little calculating, to determine approximately the house numbers beyond any given street. Thus, since the first number beyond N. W St. is 2200, then the first number beyond Webster St. should be 4400, and beyond Whittier St. 6600. In point of fact, ihowever, some confusion has been caused by the in- clusion in some of these series of both an I and a J ; while in at least one case the series does not stop with W, but includes a Y (Yuma St., in the Tenleytown section). The monotony of the chequer-board pattern is, as already indicated, broken up by a multitude of small parks and circles, from which broad avenues radiate at a great diversity of angles. These avenues bear the names of the several states, the principal and more central avenues being naturally named from the thirteen original colonies, while m.any of the largest and most important western states must be contented with representation in the remoter districts. Pennsylvania, as the "Keystone State," gave its name to the city's principal thoroughfare, and direct line of communication between the Capitol and the White House, intersecting at the former point withA'>7£' Jersey, Delazvare and Maryland Avenues, and with projected lines of Vermont and Connecticut Aves., which are interrupted by Lafayette Square. Other important points of radiation are: Washington Circle (p. 218), Dupont Circle (p. 229), Thomas Circle (p. 228), Mt. Vernon Park (p. 225), and Lincoln Square (p. 366). What impresses the stranger in Washington, next to the continual surprise of new and suddenly revealed vistas, is the spaciousness of all the streets and avenues. Of the lettered streets, the average width is go ft. ; only three are less than 80 ft., while the widest. North K St., is 147 ft. Of the num- bered streets, sixteen range between 100 and 112 ft. N. and S. Capitol Sts. are 130 ft. wide, E. Capitol St. and N. i6th St., 160 ft. each. House numbers were first adopted by the city in 1854, and revised in 1869 on the basis of the so-called "decimal XX RIDER'S WASHINGTON system," the numbers starting from the central divid'ng hnes marked by the Capitol Sts., and starting a new hundred beyond each street crossing. Accordingly even a stranger can readily determine the location of any given address : for instance, 815 North K St. would lie between 8th and 9th Sts., and similarly 422 West 4th St. would lie between D and E Sts. In regard to the house numbers, it should be noted that in the case of the lettered streets the even numbers are on the side nearest the Capitol, while in the case of the num- bered streets the even numbers are on the side furthest from the Capitol. Thus, for exam.ple, 304 C St. N. W. is on the S. side, while 714 F St. S. E. is on the N. side. The numbering of the avenues, while somewhat more confusing at first, becomes quite simple if one remembers that there are no avenues which run precisely Northeast or Northwest, but that they all slant at a small angle with either the lettered or the numbered streets. Accordingly the house numbers of \he avenues obey respectively the rules for the streets with whose direction they most nearly coincide. Pennsylvania Ave., for instance, running almost E. and W., has its even numbers on the S. side west of the Capitol, and on the N. side east of the Capitol, after the manner of the lettered streets ; while Connecticut Ave. N. W.. running nearly N. and S., has its even numbers on the W. or further side, following the rule of the numbered streets. One last source of confusion is caused by certain streets bearing half-numbers, such as 4.% St. In such cases the house numbers do not begin with even hundreds, but with so-many-hundred-and-fifty ; for instance, the building at the S. W^ cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 4^^ St. is not No. 400 but No. 450. b. The Geology of Washington The District of Columbia lies within that lengthy section of the Atlantic coast consisting of a broad slope that descends from the Appalachian Mountains to the ocean and continues beneath it. This slope comprises two di- visions of radically different origin, but with an indefinite boundary: 1. the higher western portion, known as the Piedmont Plateau and underlain by very old rocks which have passed through many changes of structure and position ; 2. the C 'astal Plain, formed of numerous layers of uncon- solidated sediments, sand, gravel and loam, which lie almost as originally deposited. GEOLOGY OF WASHINGTON xxi Accordingl}^ the geologic formations of the Washington district fall into two classes : first, the ancient and highly crystalline rocks ; and secondly, the unconsolidated beds of the Coastal Plain. The former occur chiefly to the north- west and southwest of Washington ; the latter lie to the south and east. The greater part of the city proper is built upon these unsolidified beds. The Archaean Rocks. The principal varieties of rock found in or near the District of Cohtnibia are as fellows: i. Carolina Gneiss, occurring northwest of Washington, where it may be seen along the gorges of the Potomac. It consists of alternate layers of gneiss and schist, varying from dark bluish -gray, when newly exposed, to green and yellowish-gray when weathered. 2. Granite Gneiss, of which there occurs a large irregular belt between Georgetown and Falls Church. This rock is similar in coloring to the Carolina gneiss, but it has a fine and uniform texture. It is the result of metamorphism of original granite. Complete disintegration of granite gneiss pro- duces a stiff red clay. Fine specimens of this process may be seen in the deep road cuts between Washingtoin and Chevy Chase (p. 12). 3. Diorite and Diorite Gneiss. The largest area in which this rock occurs extends N. and S. through Cabin John (p. 15); the second largest stretches N. from Georgetown. It is an igneous rock of massive texture, of a greenish-gray shading to black, the green being more pro- nounced in proportion to the amount of hornblende it contains. The fact that it cuts through the Carolina and granite gneiss shows it to be the youngest formation of the three. 4. Gabbro and Mctagabbro. Gabbro is a massive rock shading from dark gray to black. The largest area in which it is found is northeast of Cabin John, where metagabbro (from dark olive to a lighter green) also occurs. 5. Granite. Three different kinds are distinguished in the Washington district: a. the granite occurring in the beds ot granite gneiess; b. a series of granite dikes that cut into the beds of Carolina gneiss. This granite is com- posed almost wholly of quartz and feldspar and is of a very light gray tone, weathering almost to white; c. two exposed belts in the basin of Rock Creek and the quarries on Broad Branch. This is a coarse aggre- gate of quartz and orthoclase feldspar, with plagioclase and biotite. Coastal Plain Formations. These are locally of far more importance and interest than the Archaean rock formations above treated, because they form more than three-quarters of the area of W^ashington, inclusive of much of the sur- rounding territory. One important fact should be noted : that in the geology of this region the strata from the Archaean down to the close of the Mesozoic period are lack- ing. There are no traces of Permian, Triassic or Jurassic remains. The unsolidified Cretaceous beds rest directly upon the Archaean rock. Geologists distinguish nine distinct layers of these unsolidified deposits, separated, with one exception, by long periods of erosion. The separate layers are not of uniform extent, and nowhere do all nine occur superimposed; indeed, as will presently be shown, a large portion of the older city rests upon only two layers of deposit with the underlying Archaean rock. Yet all nine formations occur xxii RIDER'S WASHINGTON Avithin the District and exposures of them may be seen with comparatively little trouble. I. Potomac formation ('Early Cretaceous). This consists of clays and sand occurring separately and in all proportions of mixture. It occupies the surface over a large part of the Washington district. In the terraces along the Potomac, it is overlaid by the Later Columbia formation (see below), and in the high terraces \V. of Alexandria and the north portion of Washington by earlier members of that formation. To the E. it passes beneath the later Cretaceous and Neocene forma- tions. Tt lies directly on Archaean rock; thickness, o to 650 feet. It everlies the greater part of the N. W. region beyond Florida Avenue. 2. Matazvan (later Cretaceous). These are deposits of black argillaceous, carbonaceous sands and contain abundant moliuscan fossils. There are excellent exposures in road icMtB from Buena Vista,' to the R. R. cut at Collington, and on the road from Good Tiope to Twining (p. 413). 3. Monmouth formation (later Cretaceous). Brown sands, varying in thickness from to 25 ft. Found in a small area near Collington, N. E. of Washington. 4. Pamunky formation (Early Eocene). Sands and marls of a bluish or greenish black. De- posits varying from to 120 ft. in depth are found over a wide area E. of Washington where they are for the moist part overlaid by Chesa- peake or Lafayette formations. 5. Chesapeake formation (Miocene). Fine buff sands, clays and diatonaceous deposits, from o to 80 ft. in depth. Most of its area is overlaid by Lafayette formation. It occupies the greater i)art of the high plateau S. of Washington. Small masses imderlaid the Lafayette gravels at Soldiers' Park (p. 432), and between Georgetown and Tenleytown. Good exi>osures occur in the road cuts halt a mile north-northwest of the Naval Observatory (p. 442) and in the road cuts about Upper Marlboro. 6. Lafayette formation (Pliocene?). Gravels, sands and loams on an extensive plain 20 to 30 ft. in thickness. It covers the high, wide plains S. E. of Washington and caps the elevated area at the Soldiers' Home, and the ridge extend- ing from W. af Georgetown to Tenleytown. The deposit is mainly quartzite gravel and loams, but contains some boulders. 7: Earlier Columbia formation (early Pleistocene). This is a deposit of gravels and loams found on the higher terraces, with an almost uniform thickness of 20 ft. Occurs along the terraces of the Potomac, Rock Creek, Anacostia and Patuxant Valleys. The most extensive deposits are W. of Alexandria and in Mount Pleasant (p. 13), and adjoining upper portions of tiie city of Washington. In the N. portion of the city and up the valley of Rock Creek these formations have an average altitude of almost 100 ft. The most extensive exposures are at the head of i6th St., in the upper part of the hollow S. of Anacostia, along Fort Foote Road and in old gravel pits on the Southern R. R., E. of SpriiTgfield station. 8. Later Columbia formation (early Pleistocene). These deposits occur in the lower terraces of the Potomac and its larger branches. About the city of Washington the more extensive Columbia terrace levels are respectively 40 and 90 ft.; the Capitol stands upon the western edge of a prominent outlier of the 90-foot terrace. This formation consists of: a. a lower series of gravel, containing a heterogeneous mixture of pebbles, boulders, and irregular masses of crystalline rocks packed in brown sand and grading up into: b, a brown or buff massive loam. The finest exposures are in the street and R. R. cuts in the E. and N. W. sections of the city. See especially Pennsylvania Ave. extended, E. of the .Anacostia River. Thickness, 25 ft. 9. Post-Columbia formation (Recx?nt Pleistocene). This formation occurs mainly below tide water. To the S. and W. of the Mall a large area has' been filled in from this alluvial deposit in the river bed, part of which constitutes Potomac Park (p. 3 52). HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxiii II. The History of Washington The city of Washington has a unique history among the capitals of the modern world. Unlike other cities, it is not ithe result of a slow growth and development from some original modest village, but like Queen Dido's fabled Carthage, a bold creation with its first stately government buildings rising spectacularly in the midst of forests, swamps and unploughed fields. In the years immediately following the Revolutionary war, the United States had no permanent Capital. It was not until 1783 that the idea of creating a separate national district in which to erect a central seat oi government was first suggested, as a consequence of a serious riot in Philadelphia. A band of mutinous soldiers of the American armiy entered the city on June 20th of that year, marched to where the Continental Congress then held its sessions, and with threats of violence demanded arrears of pay. The pacific guardians of the Quaker city professed [themselves unable to cope with the situation, and Congress was obliged to retreat to Princeton, N. J. This insolent treatment was felt deeply by the members and they agreed that the seat of government should be removed to some spot beyond danger of a repetition of the occurrence. Four months later the first public proposal to acquire territory for u National Capital was heard in Congress in the form of a n.otion introduced by Elbridge Gerry of Mass., recom- mending the Potomac region, near Georgetown, as one of the sites worth considering. This resolution was carried on Oct. 7th, but subsequently amended, and later repealed in April, 1784. For four years the plan remained practically in abeyance through opposition due to sectional jealousy. In Oct., 1784, Congress appointed Commissioners authorized to lay out a District on the Dela- ware ; and in Jan., 1785, similar ineffectual efforts were made to locate the District on the Potomac. The first decisive step was taken when the authority to acquire land for a Federal City was embodied in the Constitution of the United States (adopted in Sept., 1787), article i, sec. 8, clause 16, which gives power to Congress to "exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever, over such district, not exceeding ten miles square, as may, by cession of particular states and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of the Government of the United States." The above clause in the Constitution fixed definitely the size of the new District. Appreciating the advantage of having the Capital within its limits, Maryland, xxiv RIDER'S WASHINGTON throu:jh its legislature Dec. 23d. 1788, ofifered to Congre:? "any district (not exceeding ten miles square) which con- gress may fix upon and accept for the seat of Government of the United States." This precipitated, in 1789, a stormy debate in Congress. The North and the South each desired to secure the loca- tion of the Capital within its limits. New York, Phila- delphia, Germantown, Havre de Grace, Wright's Ferry and Balrimore each had its partisans. The passage in Sept., 1789, of a resolution to the effect that the proposed Capital ought to be situated in Pennsylvania on the Susquehanna, gave grave offense to the South ; and the friction engendered was second only to that aroused by a measure proposed by Alex- ander Hamilton, then Secretary of the Treasury, involving the assumption by the Government of the debts contracted by the several states while prosecuting the War of Indepen- dence. The southern states, fearing an increase of central power, opposed this measure, which was finally defeated by two votes. The tension resulting from these two debated questions, of assumption of debts and location of the National Capital, led to whispered threats of secession and a dissolution of the Union. Washington had from the first eagerly espoused the scheme of creating what he himself chose to name the "Fed- eral City," and it was largely through his personal intiuence that the project had been so persistently brought up. The final amicable settlement, however, of the future Capital's location on the Potomac was due to a compromise effected by Hamilton and Jeft'erson. by which Jefferson agreed to persuade two of the southern congressmen to vote in favoi of the Assumption measure, in return for which Hamilton guaranteed that the N'orth would withdraw its opposition to a southern location. In accordance wnth this agreement two of the Potomac members changed their votes, (the Assumption bill was passed and on July 9th, 1790, an act was adopted, popularly Icnown as the "Residence Act," because it provided for a permanent residence for the United States Government. The chief provisions of this Act were: i. "That a district of terri- tory, not exceeding ten miles square, be located as hereinafter directed on the river Potomac, at some place between the mouths of the Eastern Branch and the Connogochegue, be, and the same is hereby accepted for the permanent seat of the riovernment of the United States";_2. It authorized the President to appoint three commissioners to determine the location of the proposed district, survey its territory and determine its boundaries; 3. These commissioners were further empowered "to accept such quantity of land as the President shall deem proper, and HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxv according to such plans as the President shall approve, shall prior to the first Monday of December, 1800, provide suitable buildings for Congress, the President and the public othces." In point of fact the present site of the Capital city, in the lower portion of the District, was Washington's personal choice. When a boy he had seen and admired it while riding across country; later, while serving under Braddock, he had camped on the hill where the Naval Observatory (p. 442) now stands, and his surveyor's instinct had quickly grasped the possibilities of this natural spacious amphitheater, lying between the heights on the north and the widening Potomac en the south. The site in question was originally the centre of the territory occupied by the Powhatan Indians, a powerful sub- tribe of the Algonquins ; and it was here in the council house, situated at the foot of what is now Capitol Hill (p. 50), that the various Algonquin tribes periodically assembled. The first white men to explore the Potomac are believed to have been Spaniards, on the strength of certain references in early Spanish records to various expeditions in the years 1566-70, to places identified with this locality. These Spaniards named the Chesapeake the "Bay of St. Mary," and the Potomac the "Espiritu Santo." Probably the first Englishman to explore this region was Captain John Smith, who in his description gave the Indian name of the river as Patawomecke. It was not, however, until near the close of the 17th century that the first permanent colony was established within the territory of the present District of Columbia, consisting of a company of Irish and Scotch settlers. One of these early proprietors. Francis Pope by name, called his place Rome, and named the little stream at the foot of his hill the Tiber. According to tradition he was a visionary man and predicted that a greater capital than Rome would sometime occupy the hill, and rule over a great and flourishing country in the new world. The poet Tom Moore, who spent a week or more in Georgetown in 1804, has whimsically satirized these local traditions in the following lines: "In fancy now, beneath the twilight gloom, Come, let me lead thee o'er the second Rome, Where tribunes rule, where dusky Davi bow, And what was Goose Creek once is Tiber now; This embryo Capital, where fancy sees Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees Which second-sighted seers, even -now adorn With shrines unbuilt and heroes yet unborn." The name Tiber remained attached to the stream, although it usually appears as Goose Creek in the reports of the first commissioners. It XXVI RIDER'S WASHINGTON flowed S., crossing the present line of Pennsylvania Ave. at a point marked by \V. 2d St., flowing thence westerly along X. B St. until it joined the Potomac. This portion of the Tiber was utilized as part ot the Wasliington Canal, which in course of time became an open sewer, and finally, about the middle of the century, was covered over, forming the beginning of the city's sewerage system. Washington's first step under the authority invested in him by the Residence Act, was to pay a personal visit to the proposed site of the national capital, accompanied by Jefferson and Madison ; his second step was to appoint as the com- missioners required by the Act, Thomas Johnson and Daniel Carroll of Maryland, and David Stuart of Virginia. Thomas Johnson (i 732-1819) was an old friend of Washington, who had served under him in the war, and later was appointed by him a judge in the Supreme Court (while still acting as commissioner). David Carroll (1756-1829) was a Representative from Maryland and brother of John Carroll, the first Bishop of Maryland and founder of (ieorgetown Academy, now Georgetown University (p. 467). Dr. David Stuart was Washington's family physician, who married the widow ot John Parke Custis. the son of the President's wife. These commissioners proceeded, in accordance with the Act of Congress, to run "certain lines of experiment . . . tor the purpose of determining the location of a part of the terri- tory of ten miles square," and with the approval of Wash- ington ran the lines so as to include a certain area to the south of the Potomac. On March 3d, 1791, Congress adopted an amendment authorizing the inclusion of this portion of V^ir- ginia, containing the town of Alexandria ; but it was provided that none of the public buildings should be located on tne Virginia side of the Potomac. Washington thereupon issued a proclamation fixing the boundaries of the District as follows : "Beginning at Jones' Point, being the upper cape of Hunting Creek, in Virginia, and at an angle in the outset of 45 degrees west of north, and running in a direct line ten miles, for the first line; then beginning again at the same Jones' Point, and running another direct line at a right angle with the first, across the Potomac, ten miles, for the second line; then, from the terminations of the said first and second lines, running two other direct lines, of ten miles each, the one crossing the Eastern Branch aforesaid, and the other the Potomac, and meeting each other in a point." Of the two States within whose boundaries the land required for the future District was situated, Virginia had already passed an act. Dec. 3d. 1789, consenting to the cession of such land as might be required by the national government. Maryland followed suit, Dec. igth. 1791. They ceded only their state sovereignty. The ownership of the land was to remain vested in the individual owners, with the exception of su'-h part of the property as the United States should buy HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxvii as needed for government purposes. Consequently one of the first duties of the commissioners was to learn what terms they could make with the private owners of the land. They found that, while there were altogether 19 origiiial proprietors, there were only four principal landowners : Daniel Carroll (usually called "of Duddington," to distin- guish him from the commissioner of that name), David Burnes, Samuel Davidson and Notley Young. The holdings of the last two named were comparatively unimportant. Car- roll, however, had a large patrimonial estate called Carrolls- burgh, situated along the Anacostia River or Eastern Branch, and including the present Capitol Hill. His country seat, Duddington Manor, 'became later a prominent feature in the social life' of the city. David Buff'nes, the second largest holder, was an illiterate Scot, whose rude log cabin survived until comparatively recent years, half hidden by the opulent Van Ness mansion (p. i/o), the home of his only daughter Marcia. Burnes, a justice of the peace and a tobacco planter in a small way, proved the most stubborn of all the land-holders. He owned a large part of the land covered by the present city, including the sites of the White House and Treasury Building. Even Washington was at first unable to do anything with "obstinate Mr. Burnes," who resented the idea of having "a Capital at his front door" ; but finally brought him to terms by bluntly informing him that the Gov- ernment needed his land and was going to get it one vi/ay or another in spite of him. After Burnes capitulated, Washington was able to an- nounce the terms of the sale (Alarch 31st, 1791) : The original owners agreed to convey to the Government, free of cost, such portions of their farms as were needed for streets, parks and other public reservations ; and to sell such land as was needed for Government buildings and public improvements at $125 per acre. The remaining land was to be laid out in building lots and apportioned equally between the Federal Government and the original owners, "In this way, without advancing a dollar and at a total cost of $36,000, the Government acquired a tract of 600 acres in the heart of the city. The 10,136 building lo,ts assigned to it ultimately proved to be worth $850,000 and now represent a value of seventy million dollars. Shrewd financier as he was, it is doubtful if Washington ever made another so good a bargain as that with Burnes and his neighbors," (Rufus Rockwell Wilson, in Washington the Capital City.) The task of planning the Federal City was entrusted to Major Pierre Charles L' Enfant, a French engineer, kinsman xxviii RIDER'S WASHINGTON 1 of D'Estaing, who had come to America in the train of Lafay- ette and had fought in the Revolution. It was L'Enfant who, at the age of 22, drew the plans for Ft. Mifflin, on the Delaware, famous for its gallant and successful resist- ance. _ His skill as a designer of fortihcations attracted the attention of Washington and won him the appointment of Chief of Engineers, with the brevet of Major of Engineers. Later, at Washington's request, he designed the insignia of the Society of the Cincinnati. During the spring and summer of 1791. L'Enfant elabo- rated his designs for the projected city. With prophetic fore- sight, he decided to plan a Capital worthy not only of thirteen states and a three million population, but of fifty states and a population of half a billion. Jefferson, thanks to his service abroad, was the only member of the Cabinet then possessing in some degree a continental breadth of artistic vision; yet even he seems to have wanted the city laid out in a monoton- ous system of squares. For when L'Enfant, in April, 1791, wrote to Jefferson for plans of the principal cities of Europe in the hope that they would "suggest a variety of new ideas Jefferson furnished the maps, with the comment that they were "none of them comparable to the old Babylon revived and exemplified in Philadelphia." L'Enfant temporized with a checker-board ground plan; but this he overlaid with a multi- tude of broad avenues intersecting the streets at acute angle ^ thus making potssible the city of splendid vistas as it exists to-day. It was Washington's personal desire that the Congressional build- ings should be located at a distance of a mile or more from the Executive Mansion. L'Enfant, accordinglv, chose the broad plateau in the eastern section as the site for the Capitol, and located the other public buildings more than a mile northwest, up the proposed Pennsyl- vania Ave. John Adams, then Vice-President, vigorously objected on the ground that all the public buildings should centre around the Capitol. Washington, however, defended L'Enfant's scheme on the ground that, if the Legislative and Executive Branches were located close together, the latter would be so annoyed by the former that they could not complete their business, unless at home. Almost from the first, friction arose between L'Enfant and the city commissioners. Daniel Carroll's enmity was first incurred because, without consulting the engineer's plans, he began the erection of a large brick house directly in the middle of the future New Jersey Ave. This enraged L'Enfant, who promptly had his v,-orkmen tear the building down, — an act which brought a reprimand from Washing- ton, ordering the re-erection of the building (although wisely, not this time on the line of the avenue). A more serious cause for friction was L'Enfant's refusal to make public his plans when, in October, the Commissioners, wishing to raise HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxix mone3% advertised the sale of lots. They took the ground that the value of the lots, and consequently, the amount of money raised, would depend largely upon their situation in relation to the projected public buildings. L'Enfant, on the other hand, contended that if his maps were published, spec- ulators would seize upon the choice! locations and perma- nently destroy the best vistas with crowded blocks of shanties. Washington promptly authorized the dismissal of the en- gineer with the incidental comment : "Men who possess talents which fit them for peculiar purposes are almost invariably under the influence of untoward dispositions, or a fottish pride, or possessed of some other disqualification by which they plague all those with whom they are concerned. But I did not expect to meet with such perverseness in Major L'Enfant." L'Enfant continued to live in the neighborhood of Wash- ington until his death in ' 1825, a disappointed and prematurely aged man. For some years he made his home with his friend, tDudley Digges. at the latter's Manor House, Chellum Castle, .near Bladensiburg. There, for nearly a century, his remains lay in an unmarked grave, until their removal in 1909 (p. 508) to a plot in the National Cemetery at Arlington. In his later years he repeatedly petitioned Congress, without suc- cess, for real or fancied arrears of pay. There seems ground 'lor believing him inadequately compensated, since all that he received for his plans, involving many months of surveying, was $2500. L'Enfant was succeeded by his assistant, Andrew Ellicott, a Pennsylvania Quaker, and later in life Professor of Mathe- matics at West Point. Ellicott retained practically all the essential details of L'Enfant's plans. The work of building the city, which under the Residence Act was to ibe ready for occupancy before the first Monday n December, 1800, proceeded slowly. The money advanced 3y Maryland and Virginia was soon exhausted, and although Congress authorized loans, money was scarce and hard to jbtain, Washington made a personal application to the Legislature of Maryland, which made the needful appropria- tion on the condition that the commissioners should add their individual guarantee. The work thereafter was rapidly pushed forward and, on June 15th, 1800, the commissioners reported the public buildings ready for occupancy. At this time only the northern section of the Capitol building .was finished. Nevertheless, in Oct., 1800, the Government, including official records, furniture and the minor officials, arrived in a "Packet-sloop." The next day the high officials drove into XXX RIDER'S WASHINGTON town. In November the 6th Congress assembled in the one completed wing of the Capitol. As might have been foreseen, accommodations were sadly inadequate. Sec. Wolcott, writing to his wife, said, "I do not perceive how the members of Congress can possibly secure lodgings, unless they will con- sent to live like monks Jn a monastery, crowded ten or twenty in one house." John Cotton Smith, writing in 1800, says, "Our approach to the city was accompanied with sensations not easily described . . . Instead of recognizing the avenues and streets portrayed in the plan of the city, not one was visible, unless we except a road, with two buildings on each side, called the New Jersey Ave. . . . Between the President's house and Georgetown a block of houses had been erected, which then bore, and may still bear, the name of the six buildings. There were also two other blocks, consisting of two or three dwelling houses, in different directions, and now and then an isolated wooden habitation — the intervening spaces, and indeed the surface of the city generally, being covered with scrub-oak bushes on the higher ground, and on the marshy soil either trees or some sort of shrubbery . . . The roads in every direction were muddy and unimproved." Under such conditions, adverse and ironical criticism was inevitable ; and for several years Washington continued to be known by various disparaging epithets : such as "Wilderness City," "Capital of Miserable Huts," "City of Streets wnthoui Houses," "City of Magnificent Distances." There was much agitation, both in and out of Congress, for a removal of the seat of Government to one of the older established cities. The advocates of such a movement came to be popularly known as "Capital Movers." Meanwhile, in these first ten years, the long series of experiments in local government had already begun. The original commissioners served nearly two years without salary, until March 4th, 1793, when on the recommendation of the President they were awarded a salary of $1000 each yearly, an amount raised later to $1600.00. These commissioners and their successors continued to rule Washington until 1802, when on May 3d, Congress granted the city its first charter, and provided for its government by a Mayor, to be appointed annually by the President, and by an elected council of twelve members. This charter was amended in 1804, and again in 1812. the chief change being a provision for the election of the Mayor by the members of the Council. The w^ar of 1812 had caused little local apprehension Washington being regarded as too small and unimportant to be chosen as a point of attack. Consequently the city found itself quite unprepared when the news first came, in June, that thirtj'^-five hundred seasoned soldiers, under Gen. Robert Ross, were embarking at Bermuda to join Cockburn's block- HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxxi ading squadron in Chesapeake Bay. The chief blame for the Capital's unpreparedness rested with Armstrong, Secretary of War, whose whole management of the subsequent crisis revealed a monumental incapacity, which justified his later peremptory dismissal by Madison. "The British," Armstrong insisted, "would never be so mad as to make an attempt on Washington, and it is therefore totally unnecessary to make any preparation tor its defense." In spite of Armstrong, some feeble and abortive prepara- tions were made. A military district was created, including the District of Columbia, Maryland and part of Virginia, and placed under command of Gen. William H. Winder, then recently returned from captivity as prisoner of war in Canada. On assuming command Winder found, to his consternation, that, although thirteen regiments of militia had been drafted from Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia, it was on con- dition that they should not be called upon for service until the enemy appeared. Winder protested fruitlessly; and the Government did not awake to the seriousness of the situation until August 20th, when a mounted courier brought the news that General Ross, with thirty-five hundred men, had effected a landing at Benedict's on the Potomac, only forty miles below Washington, and had been reinforced by a thousand marines from Cockburn's squadron, now under Cochrane. Belated efl:'orts resulted in a hastily gathered army amounting to approximately six thousand men. Of these there were barely nine hundred regulars to meet the English force of forty-five hundred veterans. The latter, under Ross, had pushed forward until, on August 24th, they reached a fork in the road, one branch of which ran northward to Bladensburg, and the other westward to the Eastern Branch of the Potomac, crossed opposite Washington by a bridge. The main defense, under Winder, had been concentrated to defend the Eastern Branch bridge. But, discovering Ross' feint movement was designed to hide his real purpose, Winder hurried on to Bladensburg, before which he occupied a com- manding position in a rising field, but unfortunately with a lack of confidence both in himself and his troops. The latter were, for the most part, raw recruits facing for the first time almost equal numbers of seasoned soldiers and marines. The American forces broke and fled in the face of a fusil- lade of Congreve rockets. The only part of the American army which showed real bravery was that of Barney's marines, who cut wide gaps in the British column, but were eventually surrounded and compelled to surrender. But they had taken a tribute of more than two to one. xxxii RIDER'S WASHINGTON Meanwhile the President and demoralized heads of the departments had fled from the city, the panic-stricken Secre- tary of the Navy giving his ill-advised parting order to burn the Navy Yard, thus destroying Commodore Barney's flo- tilla of gun-boats. The British forces reached the Capitol grounds at 6 p. m. That night they burned the Capitol (more than half the Congressional Library being destroyed (p. 369) ; the White House; the Treasury, State and Navy Buildings and a number of private edifices, including the office of the National Intelligencer, whose editorials had especially aroused the resentment of Cockburn. The flames were put out, dur- ing the afternoon of August 25th, by one of the severest thunder-storms in the city's history. This storm, amounting to a cyclone, together with the rumor that an American army of twelve thousand was advancing from Virginia, resulted in the withdrawal of the British that same evening. During this three-weeks' campaign the damage done by the British troops to public and private property amounted to up- ward of three million dollars, including the valuable cargoes taken from the seventy-one vessels captured in the harbor of Alexandria. Plans were soon under way for repairing the damage done to the Capitol city; and one of the first acts of Congress, at a special session held in September, 1814, was to appropriate $500,000 for rebuilding the White House and the Capitol, notwithstanding the strenuous opposition of the "Capital Movers." The White House, restored by Hoban, was again open to visitors January 2d, 1818. The Capitol, first under Latrobe and then under Bulfinch, was not com- pleted until 1830. In 1820 the city government was once more modified by a new charter providing for the election of a Mayor biennially by popular vote. The government estab- lished under this charter continued with but little change until 1871. In 1846, by the desire of the inhabitants and at the re- quest of the State of Virginia, Congress retroceded the thirty square miles south of the Potomac originally acquired from that state. This section contained the city of Alexandria, for the inclusion of which within the District, Congress had passed a special amendment, at the earnest desire of President Wash- ington. Down to the inauguration of President Lincoln, the Cap- ital remained a quiet, retired place of slow though steady growth, its periods of gay activity during the sessions of Congress giving place to prolonged intervals of stagnation during the recesses. Active opposition to the Canital's loca- tion had long since given place to a nation-wide indifference. HISTORY OF WASHlINGTON xxxiii With the outbreak of the Civil War the lethargy of the nation toward the Capital vanished over night. At the close of the first day's bombardment of Ft. Sumter (April 12th, 1861), Leroy P. Walker, the Confederate Secretary of War, boasted that before May ist the Confederate flag would float over the Capitol. The answer of the indignant North was to transform Washington into a great military post. The plains around it were shortly crowded with camps, sheds and trains; and every available building in the city had been requisitioned by the Government. In a few months the population increased from 61,400 to nearly quarter of a million, an average maintained throughout the war. A cor- respondent of the London Times, returning to the Capital in July, 1861, after an absence of only three months, con- '"cludes as follows a vivid account of the marvellous change wrought : "To me, all this was a wonderful sight. As I drove up Pennsyl- vania Avenue I could scarcely credit that busy thoroughfare — all red, white, and blue with flags, filled with dust from galloping chargers and commissariat carts; the sidewalks thronged with people, of whom a large proportion carried sword and bayonet; shops full of life and activity — was the same as that through which I had driven the first morning of my aTrival. Washington now, indeed, is the Capital of the United States." _ Throughout the war Washington remained the center of military activities. Here armies were officered and mar- shalled; here also were the principal hospitals for the wounded, and the chief depots of military supplies. During the war the city was frequently threatened by Confederate armies, but was only once in real danger. This was in July, 1864, shortly after the Battle of the Wilderness, and at the be- ginning of Grant's nine-months' siege of Petersburg. To create a diversion in the rear of Grant's army. Gen. Jubal A. Early, with part of Lee's troops, was sent up through the Shenandoah Valley and across the Potomac. There was great alarm in Washington, then protected by less than five thousand soldiers ; while Gen. Lew Wallace, then command- ing the Middle Department (the territory included between Washington and Baltimore), had at his disposal barely three thousand men when, on July 9th, he opposed Early's passage of the Monocasy River, less than thirty-five miles from the Capital. Wallace was defeated after an all day battle, with a loss of one-third of his forces. On July nth Early's troops appeared before the defenses of the city. But the loss of a day in the Battle of the Monocasy had thwarted his purpose, giving time for reinforcements to arrive; and within the fortifications of Washington there was an armed force of xxxiv RIDER'S WASHINGTON sixty thousand men. By nightfall, on July 12th, Early's forces were in full retreat. The greatest tragedy in the city's history occurred on the night of April 14th, 1865, when President Lincoln was assassinated at Ford's Theatre by the actor John Wilkes Booth, (p. 145). Washington had hardly recuperated from the saddest funeral procession it ever witnessed when, on May 23d and 24th, it was the scene of an impressive spectacle of widely different character, the greatest military display that had ever taken place in America — the review of the Federal veterans by President Johnson. Marching sixty abreast, it took six hours on the first day for Meade's army, and seven hours for Sherman's on the second day, -to pass in review. In 1871, another experiment in city government was tried when, on Feb. 21st, an Act was passed to the effect that on and after June ist the corporations of Washington and Georgetown should cease to exist, and that the entire District of Columbia should constitute a single municipality. This new regime, known as the Territorial Government, consisted of a Gov- ernor, a Secretary, a Board of Public Works, a Board of Health, a Legislative Assembly, and a Delegate in the House of Representatives. Under this form of municipal govern- ment began what is known as the "Renaissance of Wash- ington." The first Governor was Henry D. Cooke, who filled the of- iiceJ from Miarch, 187 1, until September 1.3, 1873, when he was succeeded by Governor Alexander R. Shepherd, who from May, 1871, until he became Governor had been Vice-President and the executive officer of the Board of Public Works. Governor Shepherd was a remarkable man, whose great services to the city of his birth, repaid at the time by base ingratitude, have since been amply recognized. He under- took, and carried out, one of the most comprehensive schemes of municipal improvement ever conceived, completing in a space of three years work which had been delayed for three- quarters of a century. Briefly stated, his improvements in- cluded: I, The construction of a sewerage system, which, by the end of 1875, embraced a total length of one hundred and twenty-three miles; 2. A water system, consisting of one hundred and thirty-three miles of mains and pipes; 3. The ex- tension of the gas-mains, and erection of three thousand public lamps; 4. The regrading of a large portion of the city streets, including the paving of one hundred and eighty miles, and more than two hundred miles of sidewalk; 5. The planting HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxxv of twenty-five thousand shade trees of many species, to which the city to-day owes a large part of its beauty. improvements undertaken on so vast a scale were cor- respondingly costly, and the territorial de'bt was increased from $3,000,000 in 187 1 to $20,000,000 in 1875. Within less than four years the 'territorial Government had become in- solvent, and a committee appointed to investigate, reported that it had proved "a failure — (being too cumbersome and too expensive," adding that there was no remedy short of its abolition." Shepherd was driven from office by the abolition of the office of Governor, and, meeting with financial reverses, removed to Mexdco, where he soon acquired another fortune. In later years he returned to receive a royal welcome, and after his death to be honored by a public statue on Pennsyl- vania Ave. (p. no). Next followed the Temporary Commissiion Government (1874-78), consisting of three members to be appointed by the President, with the consent of the Senate. This in turn gave way to the Permanent Commission Government, which was established by an act passed June nth, 1878, and cur- rently known as the "Organic Act" of the District. (See sec- tion on Municipal Government, p. xxxvi.) On July 2d, 1881, Washington was shocked by the second assassination of a President of the United States, when James A. Garfield was shot while passing through the former station of the Baltimore and Potomac! R. R!. (p. 244), by Charles J, Guiteau, a disappointed office-seeker. Garfield died September 19th, and his body lay in state in the Rotunda of the Capitol September 22d and 23d. Guiteau was tried in the O'ld City Hall (p. 137) and subsequently hanged. On June 2d, 1889, there occurred the most recent, and probably the highest, of the many floods which have inun- dated the lower part of the city. One of the main channel- spans of the Old Long Bridge was carried away, and on Pennsylvania Ave. and adjacent sections the water rose to the level of the horse-car platforms. In March, 1894, Jacob S. Coxey with his self-styled "Army" of the unemployed, began their widely heralded march upon Washington. On April 29th, Coxey and three hundred of his followers arrived and were permitted to par- ade ; but when they attempted to make speeches from the steps of the Capitol, they were arrested, and the three leaders re- ceived jail sentences of twenty days each. By an Act of Congress, dated February nth, 1895, Con- gress decreed that Georgetown "should no longer be^known xxxvi RIDER'S WASHINGTON as the city of Georgetown, but should constitute a part of the city of Washington." During the Spanish- American war a military rendezvous was main tamed at Camp Alger, situated juist south of Fort Myer. On October 3d, 1899, Washington witnessed a military parade in honor of Admiral Dewey, Victor at Manila in the Spanish-American war (the equally impressive funeral pro- cession of Admiral Dewey took place January 20th, 1917). On September 6th, 1901, the whole country was galvanized by the news of the assassination of President McKinley by Leon F. Czolgosz. McKinley lay in state in the Capitol. But, owing to a then recent statute forbidding the draping of pub- lic buildings in Washington, there was no black on the Capitol or White House. III. The Public Administration of Washington The power of determining the manner in which the Dis- trict of Columbia should be governed was vested in Congress by a clause in the eighth section of the first article of the Constitution of the United States : "To exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever over such districts (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular States and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of the (jovemment of the United States." Under this authority three successive forms of government have been tried. In 1802 Washington was formally chartered with a municipal government on the old English plan, including a Mayor and Common Council. In 1871 this was succeeded by a terri- torial form of government, with a Governor and delegate in Congress (isee History, p. xxxv). This in turn gave place to the present form of government by a Board of Commis- sioners, established under Act of Congress, approved June II, 1878. Under the first section of the Act it is provided that all the territory which was ceded by Maryland for the per- manent seat of Government, should continue to be known as the District of Columbia, and should continue to be a mun- icipal corporation, the government of which should be vested in three Commissioners, having in general equal powers and duties. Two of these Commissioners are appointed from civil life by the President, and confirmed by the U. S. Senate for a term of three years each, and until their successors are appointed and qualified. To be eligible they must have been actual residents of the District for three years previous to PUBLIC ADMINISTRATION OF WASH, xxxvii their appointment, having during that period claimed resi- dence nowhere else. The third Commissioner is detailed from time to time by the President from the Engineer Corps of the U. S. Army, and must be selected from among the Cap- tains or officers of higher grade who have served at least 15 years in the Engineer Corps. While serving as Commis- sioner such officer shall not be required to perform any other duty. These three Commissioners are in a general way vested with jurisdiction covering all the ordinary features of munic- ipal government, performing both legislative and executive functions. They a»re also ex officio the Public Utilities Com- mission of the District of Columbia. Their duties as defined by the Act are: to apply revenues; to take charge of Dis- trict records and moneys ; to investigate annually and report upon charitable institutions ; to make police, building and coal regulations ; to abolish and consolidate offices ; to prescribe time of payment of taxes, etc. ; to perform the duties of the Board of Police, B'oard of Health and School Trustees; to exact just and reasonable, rates for gas; and to report annu- ally an account of their proceedings to Congress. Residents of the District of Columbia are deprived of the franchise. During the Congressional session of 1916-17 this question of the right of the citizens of the District to vote was brought forward by the Shepard bill, the purpose of which was to establish prohibition throughout the District, the liquor interests and the advocates of District franchise alike seeing in it an opportunity to seek for an amendment granting the District at least the right of referendum. The amendment was defeated. The expenditures of the District of Columbia are based upon estimates annually prepared by Commissioners and sub- mitted to Congress through the Secretary of the Treasury. In so far as it approves of these estimates, Congress makes a proportionate appropriation out of the U. S. Treasur}^, the remainder of the amount needed being levied upon taxable property and privileges within the District (exclusive of gov- ernment property). At present the proportions are 40 per cent out of the Treasury and 60 per cent from taxation. There are three Municipal Departments: namely, the Fire Department, Health Department and Metropolitan Police, all under control of the Commissioners. Other important functions are delegated to a number of special Boards, re- porting directly to the Commissioners, and including among xxxviii RIDER'S WASHINGTON others the Board of Charities. Board of Education, Board of Medical Examiners, Board of Plumbing. Minimum Wage Board, Trustees of the Public Library, etc. The District Judiciary, known as "the Supreme Court of the District of Columbia," includes a Chief Justice and five associate Justices, and occupies what was formerly the City Hall. From the decisions of this court appeals are taken to the Court of Appeals of the District of Columbia, consisting of a Chief Justice and two associate Justices (see p. 138). IV. Washington Bibliography In the widest sense, a bibliography of Washington would make a volume in itself. The lives of all the Presidents and leading Statesmen, the intimate diaries and letters of count- less sojourners in the Capital City; the casual impressions of scores of foreign-visitors all add their side-lights to the social and political history of W^ashington. In a narrower sense, however, the standard histories, descriptive volumes and special monographs on Washington are relatively few as com- pared with most wo^rld Capitals ; and those likely to interest the average visitor can be summed up in little space. Hi.STORY. Two recent authoritative works are : Dr. William Tindall's Standard History of the City of Washing- ton (1914) and W. B. Bryan's History of the Ahitional Capital, From its Foundation through the Period of the Adoption of the Organic Act (2 vols. 1914-16). Dr. Tindall, for many years secretary of the District Board, has made his 600-page volume especially valuable as a history o\t the local municipal government. Mr. Bryan's work is especially valuable for its full treatment accorded the origin and early development of the Capital City, his first volume covering only the period down to the close of the War of 1812. Other works of a popular form are: C. B. Todd's The Story of Washington, the National Capital (1889); R. R. Wilson's Washington, the Capital City (2 vols., I9»3i) ; and C. H. Forbes-Lindsav's ll'ashington, the City and the Scat of Government (1908). The student who wishes to go directly to the earlier sources will find a mine of interesting details in the following pioneer works: Observations on the River Potomack, the Country Adjacent and the City of U^ashington, dated 1793 and written by Tobias Lear. George Washington's private secretary; A Description of the District of Columbia, bv David B. Warden (1816), and Jonathan Elliot's invaluable little history of The Ten-Mile-Square (1830). For the middle period much of WASHINGTON BI B LI O GRAPH Y xxxix alue is to be gleaned from A Picture of Washington, pub- ished in 1841, and written by George Watterson, Librarian )f Congress, 1815-29. For the closing decades of the 19th • entury the Centennial History of the City of Washington ■1892) is a mine of information regarding the military, mer- antile, manufacturing and transportation interests, the press, chools, churches, societies, etc., together with much biograph- cal matter, and abundant illustrations. Other works deserv- ng mention are: Joseph V, Varnum's Seat of Government of he United States ( 1854) ; C. A. Townsend's Washington Outside and Inside (1874); The National Capital, Past and Present, by Stilson Hutchins and J. W. Moore (1885); P^<^- tures of the City of Washington in the Past (1898), by S. C. Busey; and A History of the City of Washington, its Men and Institutions, edited by A. B. Slauson. Among the monographs covering special epochs, mention should be made of John Melon Stahl's The Invasion of the City of Washington; a Disagreeable Study in and of Mili- tary Unpreparedness (1918); John S. Williams' History of the Invasion and Capture of Washington (1857); also, from the British standpoint George R. Giieg's Campaigns of the British Army at WasJiington and Nezv Orleans in the Years 1814-15; for early Georgetown history Early Days in Wash- ington (1899), by Sally S. Mackall, is a delightfully readable and fairly accurate record. For the history of Mount Vernon ihere can be no substitute for the painstaking, exhaustive and thoroughly reliable monograph by Paul Wilstach, Mount Vernon (1916) ; and Potomac Landings (1921), by the same author, is equally satisfactory for the many historic associa- lions along the Potomac River. Lastly, the Records of the Columbia Historical Society, already numbering 24 vols., are full of matter regarding the local history oi buildings, institu- •ions, residential sections, biographies, etc. It includes such mportant papers as the "Diary of Mrs. William Thornton," 'The Capture of Washington by the British" and "Unwel- come Visitors to Washington," Aug. 24, 1814, by M. I. Weller and J. Elwell ; also an almost completed series of papers on the Mayors of Washington, Description. Among the volumes written in lighter vein, and dealing with the picturesque side of the Capital City, its social life and famous men and women, the choice is so wide that the specific mention of a few is largely a personal selec- tion. The following are distinctly readable : Francis E. Leupp's Walks About Washington (1915) ; Mary Smith Lock- xl RIDER'S WASHINGTON wood's Yesterdays in Washington (2 vols., 1915) ; Mrs. Mary S, Logan's Thirty Years in Washington (1901), a 752-page volume of life and scenes in the Capital; and Mrs. Harriet Monroe's Washington, its Sights and Insights (1903). To these should be added Ten Years in Washington (1882), by Mary Clemmer Ames, who further defines her work as "In- side Life and Scenes in the Capital as a Woman Sees Them." Of a purely descriptive nature are two articles on Washing- ton, written respectively by former President William Howard Taft and by Viscount James Bryce, which appeared in the National Geographic Magazine in the years 1913 and 1915. Recent volumes dealing especially with the social life of Washington, include: Mrs. E. N. Chapin's American Court Gossip (1887); an anonymous volume, "by the Widow of an American Diplomat," entitled Intimacies of Court and Society: an Unconventional Narrative of Unofficial Days (1912) ; and The Sunny Side of Diplomatic Life, 1875- 1912, by Lillie Greenough Hegermann-Lindencrone (1914).' Guide Books. Of the strictly formal guide book type, one early pioneer volume which deserves mention is Bohn's Handbook of Washington (1852), containing numerous en- gravings of buildings most of which have since disappeared ; Washington and its Environs, edited by De B'. Randolph Keim, is a slim red-covered, Baedeker-like little volume, new editions of which appeared almost annually for about 20 >ears, down to the late 8o's, and are a useful storehouse of miscellaneous details for that period. In recent years the tourist has had to depend upon the two paper-covered popular- priced handbooks put out respectively by the Rand, AIcNally Company and the B. S. Reynolds Company, to which has recently been added an up-to-date little pamphlet entitled, Historical Self -Guide to Washington, published by the Wash- ington Guidebook Company. Two special handbooks of dis- tinct value are: The National Capitol; its Architecture. Art and History, by George Cochraine Hazelton, Jr. (1907). and Handbook of the New Library of Congress, by Herbert Small (1901). No bibliography would be complete without mention of Charles Moore's recently published biography of Daniel LI. Bnrnham. the distinguished architect who did more than any other single man to carry forward the Art Com- mission's plans for beautifying Washington, and the record of his efforts to this end is fully given in these two ample volumes. Fiction. Washington has never been especially popular with novelists as a l)ackground for their stories, perhaps WASHINGTON BiIBLIOGRAPHY xli because a very large social element is transient and migra- tory. Yet the list begins as early as 1822 when George Wat- terson published what was probably the lirst novel laid in the District, The L Family in Washington, a story told in a series of letters, and followed, in 1827, by The Wanderer in Washington. Another early novelist of the Capital, was Mrs. Samuel Harrison Smith, whose What is Gentility f — a story of Washington society — was published in 1828, and the proceeds given to aid the Washington City Orphan Asylum. The most prolific of Washington writers v^as Mrs. E. D. E. N. Southworth, who, for nearly half a century, averaged one novel a year, many of which were laid in the City itself or in Bladensburg and other suburbs. Retribution (1843) is said to be the first serial story written in America. Among comparatively recent novelists who have laid their scenes in Washington, should be mentioned Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett, author of Through One Administration (1883) ; Mns. Gertrude Atherton, Whose Senator North (1900) stands out prominently among her earlier works; and David Graham Phillips, who invaded the Capital City at least once with Josiah Craig. Democracy: an American Novel, issued anonymously in 1880, was justly esteemed at the time as a realistic picture of political life at Washington, in which numerous Senators and foreign diplomats were skilfully por- trayed. Ot'her novels of about the same period include : Julia Magruder's Across the Chasm (1885); Albert G. Riddle's Alice Brand (1875) ; J. J. Wheelwright's A Child of the Cen- tury (1887), and a series of stories by J. W. De Forest, including Justine's Lovers (1878) and Playing the Mischief (1875). It should be remembered also that at least the con- cluding chapters of Robert Grant's Unleavened Bread, and several episodes of Sinclair Lewis' Main Street are enacted in the Capital City. And lastly, there are : The Enchanted Canyon (1921), by Honore Willsie, where the scene alter- nates between Washington and the Grand Canyon of the Colorado; and The Wings of Time (1921), by Elizabeth N. Hepburn, in which practically the whole story is enacted 'vithin the District limits. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION ' . I. Arrival in Washington a. At the Railroad Station All passengers entering Washington by railroad now arrive at the Union Station (p. 358). It contains an Infor- mation Desk, where time-tables, information concerning routes, connections, etc., may be obtained free of charge. Hand lug- gage and parcels may be left in the Parcel Room (entrance from Grand Concourse, W. of main doorway) at a charge of IOC per day for each article. Unifonued porters are on hand to carry portable luggage and give all kinds of assistance. A porter will accompany the traveller to street car or taxicab and see him safely started in the right direction. A small fee is expected, varying according to the service rendered. Within the main station are telegraph offices both of the Western Union and Postal Telegraph Cable Co. For the benefit of the traveller from abroad or others unused to American^ conditions it| may be added that railroad tickets should be purchased at the regular ticket office in the station or at one of the city ticket offices, since any tickets ofYered at reduced rates by unofficial agents, called "scalpers," may be counterfeit or sold under illegal conditions. Children under tive years of age, when accompanied by an adult, travel free. Children between iive and twelve are charged half fare. Any child, however, occupying a seat in a parlor car must pay at least a half fare. Tickets purchased one or more days in advance should be stamped with the date of intended departure. Unused tickets will be redeemed by the railroad under certain specified conditions. If stop-over privileges are desired, this fact should be mentioned when the ticket is purchased. Incoming Baggage. On all through trains, when ap- proaching the city, a uniformed agent for one of the ti-ansfer companies passes through the cars and will take checks, give a receipt and deliver baggage to any part of Washington. Payment may be made either in advance or upon arrival of the baggage. If the visitor has not made such arrangements on the train he may apply at the office of the Union Transfer Co. at N,. W. corner of main Waiting Roo^m. Taxi-cabs may be procured at W, end of station. Electric cars of several different lines (see p. 10), passing within convenient distance of all the principal hotels, pass the Plaza, stopping in front of the main South Entrance to the Union Station. Travellers from abroad will find further general information regard- ing purchase of tickets, checking of baggage, etc., in Rider's New York Citv. 2 RIDER'S WASHINGTON b. At the Steamboat Docks Passengers arriving in Washington by any of the Potomac River steamboat lines are landed at the wharves at the foot of 7th St. S. W., almost two miles S. of the residential section. There are, however, several electric car lines running N., the most convenient being the 7th St. line marked "Chevy Chase," which brings the visitor in a few minutes' run to Pennsylvania Ave., where he may transfer E. or W. to the hotel of his choice. c. Division of Material in This Guide Book To aid the traveller in the use of this guide. Washington has been divided into the following sections: i. Washington Northzvest — The Central Section, embracing that portion of Washington Northwest included between the Capitol and the White House, and containing the principal business centres, the leading theatres and a majority of the hotels frequented by transient visitors; 2. Washington Northzvest — The Resi- dential Section, including in a comprehensive way all the dis- trict N. and W. of the White House, and containing the homes of prominent Washingtonians, the foreign Embassies and Legations and the prominent social clubs; 3. Washington Southzvest and the Mall, the latter the oldest and most import- ant unit in the city's system of parkways, and containing, with the sole exception of the Corcoran Gallery, all the important art collections and museums (the rest of Washington South- west, except for Washington's most extensive playground, Potomac Park, on its western boundary, is a rather dreary waste of old-fashioned dwellings, warehouses, railway tracks and wharves) ; 4. Washington Northeast, containing the homes of the thrifty middle class, but with little of the first import- ance to attract the casual tourist save the Union Station through which he arrives and departs; 5. Washington South- east, of much the same general character, its one important building being the Library of Congress; 6. the Northern and Western Suburbs, particularly Georgetown; 7. the important Virginia Suburbs, particularly Mt. Vernon and Alexandria, II. Hotels and Other Accommodations a. General Information In Washington the great majority of hotels are run on the European plan, and there are comparatively few where a fixed weekly rate for room and meals may be obtained. In HOTELS A'ND OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS 3 fact, there are few hotels that make any reduction by the week or month in their charges for rooms. In choosing a hotel the visitor naturally considers the two questions of expense and location. The most expensive hotels are all situated on or near the upper end of Pennsylvania Ave., within a few squares of the White House. Moderate priced hotels, however, may be found in this section as well as in the lower Pennsylvania Ave. and Capitol grounds neighbor- hoods. The problem of location depends, as in other cities, upon the length of the visitor's proposed stay, and the pur- pose of his visit, whether for business, for social reasons or merely for sightseeing. For a prolonged stay, there are obvi- ous advantages in being near the residentiail section ; but for the tourist with only a few days at his disposal, location in Washington makes far less difference than in most cities of similar size. A large majority of the hotels extend along the scant mile-and-a-half stretch separating the Capitol and the White House, or cluster around these two extremes ; the prin- cipal sights of the city are similarly distributed, and in almost equal proportions ; and whichever location is chosen, the intervening length of Pemisylvania Ave. must be traversed many times. The visitor who is a good pedestrian will find that a hotel at some midway point offers the advantage of being within practical walking distance of the great majority of points he wishes to visit. For further general information regarding American hotels, the stranger in this country is referred to Rider's New York City. b. Large and Expensive Hotels of the First Rank *New Willard. (PI. I— A2) N. W. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th St. (378 R.) The oldest and most widely known of the large hotels, and, like its predecessor, the Old Willard, much patronized by members of Congress. ^'ice-President Coolidge resides here. For description see pp. no, 149. (R. Single $3. With B. $5. Double $5. With B, $7. Suites $17 up.) (See restaurants, p, 8.) *Shoreliam, (PI. II— D4) N. E. cor. 15th and H Sts, (250 R,) For description : see p. 230. (R. Single $3. With B, $5, Double $5. With B. $7.) (See restaurants, p, 8.) *Washington, (PI. I — ^A2) N, E. cor, Pennsylvania Ave. and 15th St. (500 R. 500 B.) (R. Single with B, $5. Double with B. $8. Suites $20 up.) (See restaurants, p. 8.) Raleigh. (PI, I— B2) N. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St', (450 R.) Patronized by Government officials and foreign diplomats. 4 RIDER'S WASHINGTON For description see p. io6. CR. Single $3. With B. $4. Double $4. With B. $5. ~ Suites $12 and up.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) *Wardman Park Hotel, Connecticut Ave. and Woodley Road. (1500 R. 1500 B.) Suburban residential hotel, overlooking' Rock Creek Park. Largely patronized by Congressmen, (Government Executives and foreign diplomats. Prices on application. c. Eastern Section: Capitol Grounds Vicinity Congress Hall. (PI. I— E4) New Jersey Ave. betw. B and C Sts. S. E. (225 R.) For description see p. 405. (R. Single $2.50. \\'ith B. $3. Double $4. With B. $5. Suites $6 up. ^Vmerican plan: Meals $3 per day.) Potomac. (PI. I— E4) X. W. cor. New Jj^-sey Ave. and C St. S. E. (75 R.) For description see .p. 405. (European plan: R. Single $2. With B. $4. Double $3. With B. $4.50. American plan: R. Single $4. With B. $5. Double $7. With B. $9.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) Georgei Washington Inn. (V\. 1 — E4) S. W. cor. New Jersev Ave. and C St. S. E. (100 R.)/ (R. Single $2. With B. $2.50. Double $3. With B. $3.50. Suites $6.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) DriscoU. (PI. I— E3) X. E. cor. B and ist Sts. N. W. (10:; R.) Faces the Capitol Grounds. (R. Single $1.50 up. With B. $4. l)oub]e $3.50 up. With B. $6. Suites ^. Weekly rates upon application. American plan: $4 up per day.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) New Winston, ist St. betw. Pennsylania Ave. and B St. X. W. (90 R.) (European plan: R. Single $2. With B. $2.50. Double $3. With B. $4. American plan: Two meals $1.25; Three meals $2 per day in addition to price of room.) Capitol Park. (PI. I— E2) Xorth Capitol and E Sts. (150 R.) Conveniently near the Union Station. (R. Single $2.50. With B. S3. Double S4. With B. $5. With twin beds $6.) Continental. (PI. I— E2) Xorth Capitol St. cor F St. (175 K.) Faces on Union Station Plaza (R. Single $2. With B. $3. Double $3. With B. $5.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) d. Central Section: Pennsylvania Avenue National. (PI. I— C3) X. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. (300 R.) An historic old house that has entertained many famous people. For liistory see p. 100. (R. Single $2. With B. $3. Double $3. With B. $5. Suites $6 up.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) St. James. (PI. I— C3) S. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. (126 R.) For description see p. 100. (R. Single $1.50 up. With B. $4. Double $4. With B. $5. Suites $5 to $7.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) Howard. S. W. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. Rates upon application. Metropolitan. (PI. I— C3) 615 Pennsylvania Ave. (175 R.) For description see p. 100. (R. Single $1.50 up. Witli B. $3. J^ouble $3. With B. $6.) Harrington. (PI. I— B2) S. E. cor. nth and E Sts. (R. Single $2.50. Witli B. $3.50. Double $4. With B. $5. With twin beds $6.) (See restaurants, p. 8.) Sterling. (PI. I— A2) S. E. cor. 13th and E Sts. (100 R.) (R. Single $2. With B. $3. Double S3. With B. $4.) (See restaurants, p. 8.) HOTELS AND OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS 5 New Ebbitt. (PI. I—A2) S. E. cor. 14th tand F Sts. (p. 149-) (R. Single $2. With B. $3.50. R. Double $4. With B. $6.) (See restaurants p. 8.) Occidental. (PI, I — A2) 141 1 Peunsylvauia Ave. (R. Single $2 up. With B. $3 up. e. Residential Section Lafayette. (PI. II— C3) S. E. cor. 16th and I Sts. (200 R. 200 B.) (R. Single with B. $4 and $5. Double with B. $6 to $8.) (See res- taurants p. 8.) Bellevtie. (PI. II— D3) N. E. cor. 15th and I Sts. (102 R.) (R. Single $2. With B. $3. Double $3. With B. $5.) Franklin Square. (PI. II— D3) N. W. cor. 14th and K Sts. (150 R.) (R. Single $2.50. With B. $3- Double $3.50. With B. $5. Suites $14.00.) (See restaurants p. 8.) New Hamilton. N. E. cor. 14th and K Sts. (310 R. 310 B.) A thoroughly modern eleven-story hotel overlooking Franklin Sq., and now nearing completion. Terms on application. Portland. (PI. II— D3) Vermont Ave., 14th and M Sts. (250 R.) Select family hotel patronized by Congressmen. (p. 220.) (R. Single with B. $4. Doublei with B. $6. Monthly rates upon application.) (See restaurants p. 9.) Lee House. 15th and L Sts. (250 R. 250 B.) A new hotel, opened in May, 1922. (Rates from $3.50 per day up.) (See restaurants p. 9.) Everett. 1730 H St. (38 R.) (R. Single $2. Double $1 to $5.) Bancroft. (PL II— C3) i8th and H Sts. (60 R.) Quiet family hotel; moderate prices (R. Single, $1.50. With B., $2.50 up. R. Double, $3.50. With B., $4.50 uip. American plan: $22.50 per week. With B., $25. For two persons, $40 per week, or $45 with B.) Powhatan. (PI. II— C4) N. E. cor. i8th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. (300 R.) Large modern hotel recently enlarged. (R. Single, $3. With B., $4. R. Double, $4. With B., $5.) Richmond (PL II— C4), 17th and H Sts. (90 R.) Small familv hotel. (R. Single, $2.50. With B., $3.50. R. Double, $4.50. With B., $5.50.) I (See restaurants p. 9.) Grafton, (PL II — C2), Connecticut Ave. and De Sales St. American plan. Prices on application. Logan, 13th St. and Iowa Circle. (R. Single, $1.50. R. Double, with B. $3. up.) Gordon, (PL II— C3), i6th and I Sts. (R. Single, $3. With B., $4- Other rates on application.) f. Furnished Rooms Furnished rooms are advertised in the daily papers and by signs in windows. The prices vary considerably in diff- erent sections of the city, being naturally much cheaper in the older sections around Judiciary Square (p. 137), or S. of Pennsylvania Ave. 'beyond 17th St., than in the fashionable residential section N. of Lafayette Square, where signs are rarely displayed. Owing to the great exodus of Government employees since the close of the war, there is at present [1922] an abundance oif vacant rooms, and on some of the quiet old blocks below 6th St., every third or fourth house has rooms to rent. In this neighborhood it is possible to get a large sunny room with steam heat for $6 to $8 a week. 6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON g. Suites and Furnished Apartments Visitors expecting to make a somewhat extended stay in the city may find it advantageous to take a furnished apart- ment. In Washington, however, apartment houses, especially of the moderate-priced sort^ are not plentiful; and even in the fashionable residential section there is likely to be small range of choice, and small advantage in cost over a suite of rooms in a residential hotel. A significant evidence of the lack of available apartments or private houses at a reasonable rental is the fact that today no less than 193 members of Congress find it advantageous to live in hotels, h. Boarding Houses Good board can be obtained in Washington at a cost rang- ing from $12 to $20 a week. A list of boarding houses may be obtained from the Young Women's Christian Association and from the daily papers. In choosing location, the N. W. section of the city (i. e., N. of the Mall, and W. of North Capitol St.), is preferable from the standpoint of accessibility. Before engaging hoard a clear- understanding should be reached as to what is included. Light, heat and service, and the use of the bath are usually given. III. Restaurants and Tea Rooms Apart from the big hotels, restaurant life in Washington is rather disappointing to the cosmopoHtan visitor. As a social factor there seems to be no place in the Washingtonian scheme of life for the large show restaurant offering music, dancing and cabaret entertainment. The small foreign table d'hote restaurant, French, Italian or Spanish, which in London or New York is encountered in various unexpected nooks and corners, is almost equally unknown here. The vast increase in the city's population during the temporary activi- ties of the World War, did produce a demand for a greater number of eating houses; but these were for the most part of the dairy-kitchen and cafeteria type, clean, economical and expeditious. The only notable change wrought by war con- ditions is an influx of small tea rooms, neat, quiet and artis- tically furnished, many of which serve luncheon and dinner. Most of these, however, are in the Lafayette Square neigh- borhood. The sightseer, with limited time, and therefore obliged to eat in whatever section he chances to be. must often choose between a hotel and a Greek restaurant of the dairy- kitchen type. RESTAURANTS AND TEA ROOMS 7 In .the following list the tea rooms have been grouped separately ; but no attempt has been made to divide the hotel and independent restaurants otherwise than geographicall}-. a. Capitol Grounds Section Public Restaurant in Capitol. A restaurant open to the general public in the basement of the House Wing, Room No. 31. A la carte. ♦'Congressional Library Res- taurant. Situated in the attic story (reached by elevator). A la carte; reasonable prices. Hotel Potomac. (PI. I — E4) New Jersey Ave. and C St., S. E. A la carte and table d'hote: breakfast, 75c.; dinner, $1. George Washington Inn. (PI. I— E4) New Jersey Ave. and C St., S. E.. A la carte; also table d'hote dinner. $1. Colonial Dining Room. Congress Hall. (PL I— E4) New Jersey Ave., betw. Band C Sts., S. E. A la carte and t. d'h : breakfast, $1 ; lunch, $1 ; dinner, $1.25. American Dining Room (capacity 250 guests) ; European Dining Room. Hotel DriscoU. (PI. I — E3) N. E. cor. B and ist Sts. A la carte; also table d'hote din- ner, $1.25. Nev^ Winston, ist St., near B ,St. Club Break- fast, 25c. to 75c. ; luncheon, 75c. ; dinner, 75c. and $1 : also a la carte. Capitol Park Hotel. (PI. I— E2) North Capitol and E Sts. A la carte. Dining Room and Grill. Prices moder- ate. Hotel Continental. (PI. I — E2) cor. North Capitol and F Sts. T., d'h dinner, $1 ; club breakfast, 35c. to 65c. Dining Room and Cafe. Grace Dodge Hotel. (PI. I— E2) E St., near North Capitol St. A la carte (men not received above entrance floor). Dining Room, Tea House and Roof Garden. b. Central Section: Pennsylvania Avenue Metropolitan Hotel. (PI. I — C3) Pennsylvania Ave., betw. 6th and 7th Sts. A la carte only. National Hotel. (PI. I — C3) Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. A la carte only. St. James Hotel. (PI. I— C3) S. E. cor. Pennsyl- vania Ave. and 6th St. A la carte; also club break- fast at popular prices, and t. d'h. dinner. Harvey's. S. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and nth St. (p. 103). No longer in the social centre, yet still the oldest and best known of Washington's fe^v restaurants. Dining Room.s, Grill, Ban- quet Hall, Private Rooms, etc. Raleigh Hotel. (PI. I— B2) N. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St. A la carte only. Banquets and private dinner parties a specialty. Besides large dining room on main floor, there is a spacious Banquet Hall, a Rathskeller and Grill Room in the basement, and 8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON a Roof Garden (open in summer). Sterling Hotel. (PI. I— Aj) S. E. cor. 13th and E, Sts. A la carte; also Fried Chicken Dinner, 12 noon to 9 p. m.. $1. Harrington Hotel. (PI. I — B2) S. E, cor. nth and E Sts. Club breakfasts, 6oc. to $1 ; T. d'h. luncheon, 75c.; dinner, $1.25; also a la carte. New Ebbitt. (PL I— A2) S. E. cor. 14th and F Sts. A la carte only; Grill Room in basement, with separate entrance from 14th St. New Willard. (PI. I— A2). A la carte only. Most noted hotel in Washington for public and private dinners, official banquets, etc. The famous dinners of the Gridiron Club are given here. There is a recently opened Cofeee House in basement. Washington Hotel. (PI. I— A2), Pennsylvania Ave. and 15th St. A la carte; also table dTiote in Grill: Break- fast 75c.; luncheon, $1.00; dinner, $1.50. Besides the main dining room, on S. side of lobby, there is a Spanish Garden on E. side; also on ground floor the Salon des Nations, in gold and blue, with private boxes along the walls for diners, leaving the center free for dancing. The wall panels contain murals with typical scenes from the Allied coun- tries, and from three of the neutrals, Holland, Spain and Switzerland. There are also Grill or Buffet and a Soda Room. Upon the enclosed roof are a Ball and Conven- tion Room, with seating capacity of 400; also a Sun Parlor, opening upon an unenclosed roof which in summer is also used for dancing and dining. Wallis Restaurant, 12th St. betw. F and G Sts.; also branch on 12th St., opposite Ral- eigh Hotel. Moderate prices. No smoking. New England Restaurant, 9th St. near F St. Luncheon, 60c.; dinner, Si.oo; also a la carte. Sea food a specialty. c. Residential Section *Rausher's. Connecticut Ave. at S. W. cor. of L St. The Delmonico of Washington. Favorite resort for leading social events, wedding breakfasts, coming-out parties, college reunions, etc. *Shoreham Hotel. (Pl. II — D4) N. W. cor. of 15th and H Sts. One of the leading hotel restaurants of Washington. Man}'^ select private dinners, club ban- quets, etc., are given here. A la carte only. Grill in basement. *Lorraine. 1407 H St. Small but select. Fre- quented by cosmopolitan visitors, members of legation staffs, etc. A la carte only: excellent cuisine. Lafayette Hotel. (P,l. U—C^) N. E. cor. of i6th and I Sts. T. d'h. luncheon. $1.00; table d'hote dinner. $1.50; also a la carte. Franklin Square Hotel. (F\. II— D3) N. W. cor. 14th and K RESTAURA,NTS AND TEA ROOMS ■> Sts. Club breakfast, 50c., 75c. and $1 ; t. d'h. luncheon, 75c ; t. d'h. dinner, $1.50; also a la carte. Portland Hotel. (PI. II— D3) Hth and Vermont Ave. Club breakfast, 35c., 50c. and 65c.; t. d'h. lundheon, 75. ; t. d'h. dinner, $1 ; also a la carte. Everett Hotel. 1730 H St. T. d^h. dinner, $1 ; also a la carte. Hotel Powhatan. (PI. II — C4) A la carte. Roof Garden in summer, open from 5 p. m. until midnight, with music and dancing. Richmond Hotel. (F\. II — C4) 17th and H Sts. T. d'h. luncheon, 50c.; t. d'h. dinner, $1. Sunset Inn. 1401 Massachusetts Ave. Cluib breakfast, 25c. and 50c. ; t. d'h. dinner, 70c. ; Sunda3's, 85c. Lee House. 15th and L Sts. A la Carte. Pompeiian Dining-Room. d. Tea Rooms and Cafeterias Most Washington tea rooms of the better class are within a shoirt radius of Lafayette Square, and constitute a recent innovation, few of them antedating the World War. Some are open only for luncheon and tea ; others serve dinner at reasonable prices. *LotO'S Lantern. 733 17th St. A la carte luncheon, afternoon tea. Curios for sale. ^Copper Bowl. 520 nth St. Cafeteria luncheon; tea. 4 to 6 p. m. Cinderella Tea Garden. 615 14th St. A la carte luncheon ; t. d'h., 5.30 to 8 p. m., $1.35. The Wisteria. 1427 F St. Club breakfast, 35c. and 50c.; dinner. 60c. Tintern Tea Room. 730 17th St. A la carte; club luncheon 45c. Brazilian Coffee House. 526 nth St. A la carte; t. d'h. dinner, 65c. Peter and Paul Tea Room. Connecticut Ave., \V. side, above L St. A la carte; t. d'h. dinner, $1. Brown Tea Pot, 1147 Connecticut Ave. Noah'S Ark, 924 17th St. T. d'h. dinner, $1; also a la carte. Gentlewomen's Tea Room. (Conducted by the Women's Industrial Exchange.) 1624 H. St. Ye Coffee Shoppe. 1710 I St. T. d'h. dinner, $1. Greenwich Inn. 1653 Pennsylvania Ave. A la carte; also t. d'h. dinner, $1.00. Danish Rose Tea Room. 1622 H St. A la carte; t. d'h. dinner, $1.25. Specialty. Danish pastry. Brown Betty Tea Room. 734 15th St. Blue Mill Tea Room. 919 15th St. Childs' Restaurant, 1423 Pennsylvania Ave. One of the well known . national chain of restaurants by this name, pioneers of the dairy lunch type. Bellevue Farms Lunch. 1334 G St. T. d'h. dinner and a la carte, 60c. United Cafeteria. 1008-10 F St. Self service. Martha Washington Inn. N. E. cor. Connecticut Ave. and Q St. House of the White Peacock. 810 17th St. Flag and Drum Inn. 822 Con- necticut Ave. Blossom Inn (Cafeteria). 1315 New York Ave. Allies Inn (Cafeteria). G St., W. of 17th St. Old Museum Lunch Room. In Arts and Industries Building. Reasonable prices. A great con- venience to sightseers in that locality. 10 RIDER'S WASHINGTON IV. Urban Travel a. Surface Car Lines The Washington trolley lines, constituting the chief mode of urban transport, are practically monopolized by two cor- porations : I. The V/ashington Railway and Electric Co.; 2. The Capital Traction Co. The majority of the lines conducted by these companies operate within the District limits ; a few of these extend over the boundary line into Maryland. All the other lines operating within the city limits are through lines to points either in Maryland or Virginia. Each of the two companies operating within the District limits gives free transfers to all its intersecting lines, but not to the lines of the rival company. The uniform rate on all lines within the District, includ- ing first and second transfers, is eight cents. On all lines passengers may purchase metallic tokens at the rate of six tokens for 40 cents. These tokens are interchangeable on all lines of both companies within the District limits. A few lines of these companies extend beyond the Dis- trict limits into the State of Maryland: e. g. the lines to Chevy Chase and to Glen Echo Park. In the case of these lines an extra fare is charged beyond the District line and must be paid in cash, the tokens being valid only within the District. CAPITAL TRACTION COMPANY This company operates the following Lines : I, Pennsylvania Avenue Lines. Four separate routes, all covering the same section of Pennsylvania Ave., from the Peace Monument to 19th St. N. W. : Line A: operates between 36th and M Sts. N. W. (Georgetown) and 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. S. E. Route : east on M St. to Pennsylvania Ave., thence southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to 15th St., south on 15th St. to Penn- sylvania Ave., thence again southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to Peace Monument, thence south on ist St. to B St. South, east on B St. to Pennsylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to 17th St. S. E. Car signs: ea^tbound, ''17TH AND PA. AVE. S. E."; westbound, "GEORGETOWN." Passing: Washington's Headquarters, Washington Circle and Statue. Department of Commerce, U. S. Railroad Administration, Interstate Commerce Commission, State, Army and Navy Euildin^. White House, Treasury Building, Lafayette Squares leading hotels and theatres, Municipal Building, Post Office Department. Centre Market, Botanic Gardens, Capitol, Library of Congress, Congressional Cemetery. URBAN TRAVEL n Line B: operates between 36th and M Sts. N. W. and 8th and F Sts. N. E. Route: same as Line A to Peace Monument, thence north on ist St. to C St., east on C St. to Delaware Ave., southeast on Delaware Ave. to Union Sta- tion Plaza, east trom Plaza on California St. to 2d St. N. K., north on 2d St. to F St., east on F St. to 8th St. Car signs : easfbound, "8TH AND F STS. N. E." ; westbound, "GEORGETOWN." Passing-: Same points of interest as Line A; also Senate Office Building, Columbus Monument and Union Station. Line C: operates between Potomac Park (i8th St. and Virginia Ave.) and 8th and F Sts. N. E. Route: from Poto- mac Park terminal, north on 19th St. to Pennsylvania Ave., thence southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to Peace Monument, thence over same streets as Line B to F and 8th Sts. N. E. Car signs : castbound, "8TH AND F STS. N. E." ; zvestbound, "POTOMAC PARK." Passing: Same points of interest as Line B. Line D: operates between 26th and Pennsylvania Ave. N. W., and 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. N. E. Route: south on 26th St. to F St., west on F St. to 17th St., north on 17th St. to Pennsylvania Ave., thence over same streets as Line A. Car signs: easfbound, "17TH AND PA. AVE. S. E." ; zi'estbound, "26TH AND PA. A\'E. N. W." Passing Department of Interior Building and same points of interest as Line A. 2. Fourteenth Street Lines. Five separate routes, three of which cover the Pennsylvania Ave. section from 15th St. to the Peace Monument. Line A: operates between 3300 14th St. (Park Road) and 36th and M Sts. N. W. (Georgetown). Route: south on 14th St. to New York Ave., south weston New York Ave. to 15th St., thence west on Pennsylvania Ave. to Rock Creek Bridge and via M St. to 36th St. terminal. Car signs : southbound, "GEORGETOWN"; northbound, "PARK ROAD." Passing: Thomas Circle, Franklin Sq., Treasury Department, White House, Lafayette Sq. and points of interest mentioned above under Pcuusylvania Ave. Line A. Line B : operates between Park Road and 26th and G Sts. N.W. Route: same as Line A to Pennsylvania Ave. and 17th St. N. W., at which point cars run west on G St. to 26th St. Car signs: southbound, "26TH AND G iST." ; northbound. "PARK ROAD." Passing: Same points of interest as Line A to 17th St.; also Department of Labor and Y. M. C. A. 12 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Line C: operates between 4700 14th St. N. W. (Decatur St) and Union Station. Route: south on 14th St. to New York Ave., thence west on New York Ave. to 15th St., south on 15th St. to Pennsylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to the Peace Monument, north on ist St. to C St., east on C St. to Delaware Ave., thence southeast on Delaware Ave. to Union Station, Car signs: southbound. "UNION STATION"; northbound, "DECATUR." Passing: Thomas Circle, Franklin Square, Treasury Buildirg, W'il- lard's Hotel, Municipal Birilding, Post Office Department, Hotel Raleigh, Centre Market, Botanic Gardens, Capitol (Jrounds, City Post Office and Columbus Statue. Line D: operates between 5500 14th St. N. W. (Colo- rado Ave.) and Navy Yard, Route: same as Line A to Peace Monument, thence south on ist iSt. to B St. South, east on B St. to Pennsylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania Ave, to 8th St., south on 8th St. to Navy Yard Gate. Car signs: southbound, "NAVY YARD"; northbound, "14TH AND COLORADO A\'E." Passing: Same points of interest as Line C to Peace' Monument; also Garfield Monument, Capitol, House Office Building, Library of Congress and Marine Barracks. Line E: operates between Takoma Park (Laurel and Aspen Sts.) and Navy Yard. Route: south on 3d St. to Ken- nedy St., west on Kennedy St. to 14th St., then south on 14th St. and over same route as Line D to Navv Yard. Car signs : southbound, "NAVY YARD"; northbound. "TAKOMA PARK." Passing: Same points of interest as Line D. 3. Chevy Chase Lines: Two routes covering same section from Chevy Chase Lake to 14th and U Sts. Line A: operates between Chevy Chase Lake. Md., and Potomac Park (i8th St. and Virginia Ave.), Route: south- east on Connecticut Ave. to Calvert St., east on Calvert St. to i8th St., south on i8th St. to U ,St., east on U St. to 14th St., south on 14th St, to New York Ave., southwest on New York Ave. to 15th St., west on Pennsylvania Ave. to 19th St., south on 19th St. to Potomac Park; returning over i8th St. to F St., east on F St. to 17th St., and north on 17th St„ rejoining the route above given. Car signs: southbound, "POTOMAC PARK"; northbound, "CHE\'Y CHASE LAKE." Passing: Chevy Chase Circle, Bureau of Standards, Carnegie Insti- tution, Cleveland Park, Zoological Park. Thomas Circle, Franklin Square, URBAN TRA\'EL 13 Treasury Building, White House, State, War and Navy Building, De- partment of Commerce, Interstate Commerce Commission, Department of the Interior and new Navy Building. Line B: operates -between Chevy Chase Lake, Md., and 7th St. wharves (some of the northbound cars stop at Rock Creek Bridge). Route: same as line A to U and 14th Sts., thence east on U St. to Florida Ave., southeast on Flor- ida Ave. to 7th St., south on 7th St. to Water St., south on Water St. to the wharves. Car signs : southbound, "7TH ST. WHARVES"; northbound, "CHEVY CHASE" or "ROCK CREEK BRIDGE." Passing: Bureau of Standards, Geophysical Laboratory, Zoological Park, Baseball Park. Public Library, Patent Office, Public Lands Office, Centre Market, Smithsonian Institution Grounds, Army Medical Museum, Old Arsenal and War College. 4. Florida Avenue Line: operates between Stephenson Monument (Pennsylvania Ave. and 7th St.) and Navy Yard Gate. Route : north on 7th St. to T St., east on T St. to Florida Ave., southeast on Florida Ave. to 8th St. N. E., south on 8th St. to Navy Yard Gate (M St. S. E.). Car signs: north and eastbound, "NAVY YARD"; west and south- bound, "7TH AND PA. AVE. NAV." Passing: Public Lands Office, Patent Office, Publiq Library, Old Central High School, Base Ball Park, Gallaudet College and Navy Yard. 5. New Jersey Avenue Line: operates between Rock Creek Bridge (20th and Calvert Sts. N. W\) and Navy Yard Gate (8th and M Sts. S. E.). Route: east on Calvert St. to i8th St., south on i8th St. to U St., east on U St. to Florida Ave. to New Jersey Ave., southeast on New Jersey Ave. to Massachusetts Ave. to Union Station, thence south- west on Delaware Ave. to B St. N. E., east on B St. to ist St., south on 1st St. to B St. S. E., east on B St. to Penn- sylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to 8th St., south on 8th St. to Navy Yard. Passing: Base Ball Park, Government Printing Office, City Post Office, Union Station, Senate Office Building, Capitol, Library of Congress and House Office Building. WASHINGTON RAILWAY AWD ELECTRIC COMPANY This Company operates the following Lines : L Mt. Pleasant Lines: Four separate routes all fol- lowing the same course from Alt. Pleasant to Connecticut Ave. and 17th St. Line A: operates between Park Road terminal and 14th St. N. E. Route : West-ward on Easit Capitol St. to ist St., north on ist St. to B St., west on B St. to Delaware Ave., 14 RIDER'S WASHINGTON north on Delaware Ave. to C St., thence west on C St. to New Jersey Ave., northwest on New Jersey Ave. to D St., west on D St. to 5th St., north on 5th St. to F St., west on F St. to 14th St., north on 14th St. to H St., west on H St. to 17th St., north on 17th St. to K St. and Connecticut Ave., northwest on Connecticut Ave. to California St. and Columbia Road, then north on Columbia Road to intersection of i6th, Harvard and Mt. Pleasant Sts., thence along M:t. Pleasant St. to terminus at Park Road and 17th St. Car signs: Easthound, "LINCOLN PARK"; zvesthoiind, "MT. PLEASANT." Passing: Lincoln Park, Capitol, Senate Office Building, Union Station, Columbus Monument, City Post Office, Old City Hall, Pension Office, Cosmos Club, Lafayette Square, Old St. John's Church, Decatur House, Dupont Circle and (corner of Columbia Road and Harvard St.) east entrance to Zoological Park. Line B: operates between Mt. Pleasant (Park Road terminal) and 13th and D Sts. N. E. Route: Eastbound cars run south from Park Road on Mt. Pleasant St. to Columbia Road, southwest on Columbia Road to Connecticut Ave., southeast on Connecticut Ave. to K and 17th Sts., south on 17th St. to H St., east on H St. to 14th St., south on 14th St. to F St., east on F St. to 5th St., north on 5th St. to G St., east on G St. to Massachusetts Ave., southeast on Massachusetts Ave. to Plaza, southeast from Plaza, on Massachusetts Ave., to C St. N. E., east on C St. to 13th St., north on 13th St. to terminal at D St. Westbound cars run west on D St. to Massachusetts Ave., thence on same route as Line A. Car signs: zvcstboiind, MT. PLEASANT"; eastbound, "13TH & D STS. N. E." Passing: Stanton Sq. and Greene statue; also same points of interest as Line A. Line C: operates between Mt. Pleasant (Park Road terminal) and ist and E Sts. S. E. Route: northboimd cars run from E St. S. E. north over ist St. to B St. N. E., west on B St. to Delaware Ave., north on Delaware Ave. to Union Station Plaza, thence northwest on Massachusetts Ave. fol- lowing same course as preceding lines. Car signs: northbound. "MT. PLEASANT"; southbound, "iST & E STS. S. E." Passing: House Office Building, Capitol, Library cf Congress, Senate Office Building; also same points of interest as preceding lines. Line D: operates between Mt. Pleasant (Park Road terminal) and Potomac Park. Route: northbound cars run from Virginia Ave. north on i8th St. to F St., east on F St. to 17th St., north on 17th St. to Connecticut Ave., thence over URBAN TRAVEL 15 same course as preceding lines. South-bound cars return by same route to 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave., thence west to 19th St., south on 19th St. to Virginia Ave. and southeast on Virginia Ave. to terminal. Car signs : northbound, "MT. PLEASANT"; southbound, "POTOMAC PARK." Passing: New Navy Building, Department of Interior, State, War and Navy Building; also same points of interest as preceding Mt. Pleasant lines. 2. Brookland-Cabin John Line. Route: Mrestbound cars run from Randolph St. south on 12th St. N. E. to Monroe St., east on Monroe St. to Michigan Ave., southeast on Michigan Ave. to North Capitol St., south on North Capi- tol St. to Massachusetts Ave., northwest on Massachusetts Ave. to G :St., west on G St. to 5th St., south on 5th St. to F St., west on F St. to 14th St., north on 14th St. to H St.. west on H St. to 17th St., north on 17th St. to Connecticut Ave., northwest on Connecticut Ave. to P St, west on P St. to 36th St., south on 36th St. to Prospect Ave. (Georgetown terminal), thence west over private right of way to Cabin John Bridge. Eastbound cars return over same route to Pros- pect Ave. terminal, thence east to 35th St., north on 35th St. to O St., east on O St. to Wisconsin Ave., thence east on Dum- barton St. to 28th St., north on 28th iSt. to P St., rejoining the same route to Brookland. Some eastbound cars cover the whole route ; others stop at intermediate terminals as indi- cated by the car signs: eastbound, "BROO'KLAND" and "N. CAP. & W"; ivcstbound, "GEORGETOWN," "GLEN ECHO/' "CABiIN JOHN" and "LITTLE FALLS RD." Passing: Catholic University, Trinity College^ Soldiers' Home, Filtration Plant, Glenwood Cemetery, Sibley Hospital, Government Printing Office, City Post Office, Pension Office, Patent Office, New Ebbitt, New Willard, Shoreham, Cosmos Club, St. John's Church, Decatur House, Army and Navy Club, British Embassy, Georgetown Hospital, Georgetown University, Palisades of the Potomac, Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, Glen Echo and Cabin John. 3. Georgia Avenue-Ninth Street Lines. Four routes all covering the same section over Georgia Ave., 9th St., B St., Missouri Ave. and 4^ St. Line A: operates betw^een Forest Glen and Water St. wharves. Route : southeast from Forest Glen, passing Na- tional Park Seminary, Woodside and Silver Springs to Georgia Ave. at District Line ; thence south on Georgia Ave. to Florida Ave., west on Florida Ave. to 9th St., south on 9th St. to B St.. east on B St. to 6th St. and Missouri Avp.. southeast on Missouri Ave. to 4J^ St., thence south to P St., west on P St. to Water St. terminal. Car signs : southbound, "WHARVES"; northbound. "FOREST GLEN." i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Passing: Walter Reed Hospital, Brightwood, Soldiers' Home, Howard University, Baseball Park, Public Library, Patent Office, Center Market, New National Museum and Army War College. Line B: operates over same route as Line A with northern terminal at Georgia and Eastern Aves. (District Line). Car signs: northbound, "EASTERN AVE/'; south- bound, "WHARVES." Line C: operates between Water St. wharves and Soldiers' Home. Route: from Soldiers' Home Gate east on Upshur St. to Georgia Ave., thence south over same course as Line A. Car signs: northbound, "SOLDIERS' HOME"; southbound, "WHARVES." Line D: operates between Takoma, Anacostia and Congress Heights. Route : from Takoma west on Butternut St. to Georgia Ave,, thence south over same course as Line A to 4^ St., thence south on 4^^ St. to Mary^land Ave., north- east on Maryland Ave. to B and Canal Sts., southeast on Canal St. to E St., east on E St. to 4th St. S. E., south on 4th St. to G St., east on G St. to nth St., south on nth St. to Anacostia Bridge, across the bridge to Nichols Ave., and south on Nichols Ave. to Anacostia terminal at Talbert St. ; cars continue on Nichoils Ave. to Congress Heights, and thence west on Portland St. to Steel Plant. Car signs : north- bound, "TAKOMA"; southbound, "ANACOSTIA," "CON- GRESS HEIGHTS" or "STEEL PLANT." Passing: Same points of interest as Line A to 4>^ St.; also Pro- vidence Hospital, Garfield Park, Marine Barracks, Navy Yard and St. Elizal>eth Hospital for Insane. 4. Fourth Street Line: operates between Steamboat wharves (M and Water Sts. S. W.) and W St. and Georgia Ave. N. W. Route: northwest on Water St. to nth St., north on nth St. to Virginia Ave., northwest on Virginia Ave. to B St., west on B St. to 14th St., north on 14th St. to G.St. N. W., east on G St. to 5th St., north on 5th St. to New York Ave., northeast on New York Ave. to 4th St., north on 4th St. to Florida Ave., east on Florida Ave. to 3d St, north on 3d St. to Elm St., west on Elm St. to 4th St., north on 4th St. to W St., west on W St. to Georgia Ave. Car signs: northbound, 'LEDROIT PARK"; southbound, "WHARVES." Passing: Bureau of Engraving and Printing, Agricultural Depart- ment Bunlding, Washington Monument, Municipal Building. Hotel Willard, Patent Office. Pension Office, St. Mary's- R. C. Church, Con- vention Hall, Freednien's Hospital and Howard University. 5. Monroe-Eleventh Street Lines. Three routes all covering same section of nth St. from Monroe St. to F St. URBAN TRAVEL 17 Line A: oiperates between Monroe St. N. VV. and 14th and Water Sts. S. W. Route : south from Monroe St. terminal on nth St. to E St., west on E. St. to 14th St., south on 14th St. to Water St. Car signs: northbound, "iiTH ST. N.W."; southbound, "14TH & WATER" or "BUREAU ENGRAVING." Passing: New Central High School, Garfield Hospital, Agricultural Department, Washington Monument and Bureau of Engraving and Printing. Line B: operates between Monroe St. terminal and 9th and F Sts. N. W. Route : same as Line A to F St., thence east on F St. to gth St. terminal. Car signs : northbound, "iiTH ST. N.W."; southbound, "9TH & F ST." Line C: operates between Monroe St. terminal and 4^ St. and Missouri Ave. 6. Eleventh Street Line: operates between nth and Monroe Sts. N. W. and Congress Heights. Route : Southbound cars run from Monroe St. terminal south on nth St. to F St., east on F St. to 9th St., south on 9th St. to B St. S. W., east on B St. to 6th St., south on 6th St. to Missouri Ave., southeast on Missouri Ave. to 4^ St. Car signs: northbound, "iiTH ST. N. W." ; southbound, "4^ & MO. AVE." Passing: Central High School, Garfield Hospital, Patent Office, Center Market, National Museum, and Public Gardens. 7. Columbia Line: operates between 15th St. and New York Ave. N. W, and 15th and H Sts. N.E. and District Line (near 63d, St. and Eastern Ave.). Route: from 15th St. terminal, cars run northeast on New York Ave. to Mt. Vernon Sq., thence southeast on 'Massachusetts Ave. to 4th and H Sts., thence east on H St. to District Line at 15th Sit. N. E. ; thence east on Benning Road, crossing the Anacostia River to Kenil- worth Ave., and north on Kenilworth Ave. to Deane Ave. At this point some cars continue N. to Kenilworth ; others diverge E. on Deane Ave. to District Line and station of Chesapeake Beach R. R. Car signs : westbound, "TREAS- URY" ; eastbound, "15TH & H, N. E.," "KENILWORTH," or "DISTRICT LINE." Passing: Masonic Temple, Public Librar)-, Government Printing Office, Benning and Chesapeake Junction. 8. Bladenisburg Line: operates between 15th and H Sts. and Berwyn, Md. Route: from H and 15th Sts. N. E., along the historic Bladensburg Coach Road to Riverdale and Berw5'n. Car signs: northbound, "EASTERN AVE. & i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON BLAD'ENSBURG RD.," "BERWYN," or "RIVERDALE" ; southbound, "15TH & H STS. N. E." Passing: Mt. Olivet Cemetery, National Training School for Boys, Bladensburg Duelling Grounds and old villages of Bladensburg and Riverdale. 9. Maryland Line: operates between 15th and G Sts. N. W. and District Line, Riverdale, Berwyn and Laurel, Md. Route: from terminus at 15th and G Sts., east on G St. to 5th St., thence north on 5th St. to L St. and Now York Ave., northeast on New York Ave. to ist St. N. E, and Eckington Place, north on Eckington Place to R St., east on R St. to 3d St.. north on 3d St. to T St., east on T St. to 4th St., north on 4th St. to W St. and Rhode Island Ave., thence northeast on Rhode Island Ave. to District Line and over private tracks to Mt. Ranier, Hyattsvile, Riverdale, Berwvn and Laurel. Car signs: westbound, "TREASURY"; eastb'ound, "AIT. RANIER," "RIVERDALE," "BERWYN" or "LAUREL." Passing: Patent Office, Pension Office, Convention Hall, Mt Ranier, Lord Baltimore Mansion, Maryland Agricultural College and Normal Institute. 10. Georgetown - Tenle5^own - Rockville Lines. Two routes, both of which traverse the same section of Wisconsin Ave. to junction with Massachusetts Ave. Line A: operates between Wisconsin Ave. and M St., Georgetown and Rockville, Md. Route : northward on Wis- consin Ave. to District Line and beyond, passing through Tenlevtown and Somierset. Car signs : northbound, "SOM- ERSET" or "ROCKVILLE"; southbound, "GEORGE- TOWN." Passing: Naval Observatory, National Domestic Science School, Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, Bureau of Standards, Somerset, Edgemoor and Alta Vista. Line B: operates between M St., Georgetown and Massachusetts Ave. at District Line. Route: north on Wis- consin Ave. to McComb St.. west on McComb St. to Massa- chusetts Ave., thence northwest on Massachusetts Ave. to Dis- trict Line. Car signs : northbound, "AMERICAN UNIVER- SITY," and "WESTERN AVE."; southbound, "GEORGE- TOWN." Passing: Naval Observatory, Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul and American University. URBAN TRAVEL 19 WASHINGTON AND OLD DOMINION RAILWAY This company operates two lines as follows : 1. BluemoFxt Division: operates between Georgetown terminal at 36th and M Sts., and Bluemont, Va. Route : via Aqueduct Bridge, Rosslyn, Va., Bluemont Junction, Falls Church, Leesburg and intermediate stations. 2. Great Falls Division: operates between Georgetown terminal and Great Falls of the Potomac. Route: via Aque- duct Bridge, Rosslyn, Va., Cherrydale, McLean and interme- diate stations. WASHINGTON-VIRGIN/ A RAILWAY This company operates two lines as follows : 1. Mount Vernon Division: operates between Washington terminal at Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St., and Mount Ver- non terminal opposite North Gate Lodge (p. 487). Route: from starting point on D St., S. on 12th St. to C St. ; thence W. on C St. to Ohio Ave., S. W. on Ohio Ave. to 14th St. S. on 14th St. to Potomac Park; thence S. W. through Potomac Park to Highway Bridge (crossing the Potomac River), reaching Arlington Junction, Va., Four Mile Run, Hume, Riverside and Mount Vernon. 2. Falls Church Division, Branch A: operates between Pennsylvania Ave. terminal at 12th and D Sts. and Fairfax, Va, Route : same as Mount Vernon Division to Arlington Junction; thence through Hatfield, Columbia, Nauck, Alex- andria County Court House, Clarendon, Vienna, Oakton and intermediate stations. Branch B: operates between Rosslyn, Va. (via Long Bridge from Georgetown), and Fairfax. Route: via Arling- ton, Fort Myer, Radio and Hatfield, thence same as branch A. WASHINGTON, BALTIMORE AND ANNAPOLIS ELECTRIC RAILROAD This company operates two lines as follows : I. Baltimore branch: operates express trains every half hour between Washington terminal at New York Ave. and 14th St. and Baltimore terminal at 103 North Liberty St., cor. Marion St. and Park Ave. Running time 85 min. Free transfers to passengers arriving in Washington to all lines of the Washington Railway and Electric Companies. 20 RIDER'S WASHIXGTOX 2. Annapolis Branch: operates hourly trains between Washington terminal at 14th St. and New York Ave., and Annapolis terminal, opposite Naval Academy Gate. b. Taxicabs Ta.x'icahs are to be found at the Union Station and at all the large hotels and public cab stands throughout the city. They can be ordered by telephone from any point. The two largest taxicab companies are the Federal Taxicab Co. (office, 212 13th St. N. W. ; telephone number, Main 8000) and Ter- minal Taxicab Co., Inc. (office, 1231 20th St. N. W. ; telephone number, North 1212). At the stations and hotels the taxicabs are under the direction of a *'starter" who may be consulted concerning the amount of fare. A table of rates is posted in each taxicab, and the fare can be roughh- computed before- hand by reckoning ten blocks to a mile. Taxicab Rates. For the fir?t half mile or any fraction thereof, 50c.; each additional quarter mile. loc. Articles of 'luggage, suit cases, steamer trunks, etc., loc. each. Several taxicab companies advertise a schedule lower than the legal rates. For example, the Brown and White Cab Co. (Main 430) charges 30c. for fir?t one-third mile, ana IOC for each additional one-third mile. c. Motor Bus Lines The establishment of urban omnibus lines by the Wash- ington Rapid Transit Co. (office, 14th and Buchanan Sts.) is a recent innovation, and has acquired a prompt popularity because these busses form a connecting link between the shop- ping centre and certain portions of the residential district le.ss readily accessible by the car lines. Visitors will find that by taking these busses from Pennsylvania Ave., between 8th and I2th Sts., they will save considerable time in reaching points on i6th St. above Scott Circle, the Scottish Rites Temple, Meridian Park, the Harvard St. entrance to the Zoological Park. etc. The fare is 8c., payable on entry. Four routes are in operation (March, 1922), and others are projected. I. Pennsylvania Ave.-Buchanan St. Line. Route: from Market Space terminal (Pennsylvania Ave. and 8th St.) westward on Pennsylvania Ave. to 12th St., north on 12th St. to Massachusetts Ave., northwest on Massachusetts Ave. to i6th St.. north on i6th St. to Buchanan St., east on Buchanan St. to terminal at 14th St. Passing: Post Oflice Department. Raleigh Hotel, Scott Circle. Car- negie Institution, French Embassy, Congressional Club, Meridian Park, Jeanne d'.Vrc Statue and Piney P>ranch Bridge. URBAN TRAVEL 21 2. Pennsylvania Ave.-Petworth Line. Route: frooi Market Space terminal (Pennsylvania Ave. and 8th St.) over same course as Line i to Harvard St., thence east on Harvard St. to 13th St., north on 13th St. to Park Road and New Hampshire Ave., thence northeast on New Hampshire Ave. to terminal at Grant Circle, Petworth. Passing same points of interest as Line i. 3. Potomac Park-Buchanan St. Line. Route: from terminal at Navy Department Building eastward on B St. to 17th St., north on 17th St. to H St., east on H St. to i6th St., N. on i6th St. to Buchanan St., E. to 14th St. terminal. Passing: Pan-American Union, Continental Memorial Hall, Ameri- can Red Cross, Corcoran Gallery, State, Army and Navy Building, Court of Claims, Decatur House, Lafayette Sq., St. John's Church, Russian Embassy, Scott Circle ;•■ also same points of interest as Line i. 4. Potomac Park-Petworth Line. Route: from ter- minal at Navy Department Building eastward on B St. and over same course as Line 3 to Harvard St., thence east on Harvard St. to 13th St., north on 13th St. to Park Road and New Hampshire Ave., thence northeast on New Hampshire Ave. to terminal at Grant Circle, Petworth ; returning over New Hampshire Ave., 13th St. and west on Columbia Road to i6th St., thence over same route as above given. Passing same lines of interest as Line 3. SUBURBAN MOTOR-BUS LINES 1. Washington - Alexandria Line. These omnibuses start from S. E. coir. of 12th and D Sts., and run on a ten minute headway throughout the day. Fare, 15c. 2. Washington - Baltimore - Annapolis Line. These omnibuses start from Pennsylvania Ave. and 8th St. (Market Space), running some 20 miles into Maryland along the Balti- more and Annapolis highway. Usually four trips a day. 3. Marlboro Line. Route: from 8th St. and Pennsyl- vania Ave. sO'Utheasterly to Marlboro, Md., about 16 miles. d. Sight-Seeing Cars The Sight-seeing Automobiles occupy in Washington a rather prominent position. There are many rival lines, the majority of which offer three different trips, covering in each case approximately the same territory: Tour A. "Seeing Washington" ; on this trip cars run daily every hour, from 10 A. M. until 4 P. M. during the winter season, and from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. between Apr. 15 and Sept. 15, making the circuit of the principal points of interest within the city limits. Uniform price, $1.00; Tour B: Personally conducted trip 22 RIDER'S WASHINGTOX through the public buildings ; one trip daily, except Sundays, iisually at lo a. m. Pi'ice, including fees, $1.50; Tour C: a suburban excursion usually including the northwest residential section of Washington, the National Zoological Park, George- town, Ft. Myer and Arlington. Some lines make two week- day trips at I and 3 P. AI. ; others make only the 3 P. M. trip. Sundays, three trips: 10 (or 11) A. Al., i and 3 P.M. Price $1.50; Tour D: Some lines offer a personally conducted tour to Alexandria and Mt. Vernon. Cars start daily, except Sun- days, at 10 A. 'M., the round trip occupying four hours. Price (including guide and admission fees) $3.00. The majority of the Sight-seeing Automobile Companies, of which a list is given below, run during the wintej season glass-enclosed and well-heated touring cars. Congressional Sight Seeing Car, 103 Pennsylvania Ave. Gray Line Sight Seeing Tours, 1417 Pennsylvania Ave. Red Star Sight Seeing Company, S0\y2 14th St. Royal Blue Line Sight Seeing Co., 1237 Penn. Ave. Green Line Sight Seeing Tours, 2 F St. V. Postal Facilities; Telegraph Offices a. Postal Facilities The Washington Cily Post Office (p. 357), at Massachusetts Ave. and North Capitol St., is open day and night. The Money Order Office is open daily from 8 A. M. to 9 P. M., except Sundays and Holidays. The Registry Section is open continuously, and here Money Orders may be obtained on Sundays and Holidays ; also at night after the Money Order windows are closed. The General Delivery Windows (for "Poste Restante" letters) are open daily from ^ A. M. to midnight, except Sundays. The Parcel Post Section for the reception of Parcel Post mail is open continuously. The Retail Stamp JVindozvs are open, week days, from 7 A. M. to II P. M. ; Sundays from 10.30 A. M. to 2 P. M. At other times stamps in small quantities may be obtained at the Registry Division. The Wholesale Stamp Department is open from 8.30 to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. Besides the Government Post Office District, the city is divided into about thirty Postal districts, each served by a Branch Post Office, designated by local names: Anacostia Station, 2018 Nichols Ave., S. E.: Benning Station, Ben ning Rd. and Anacostia Ave.: Brightwood Station, Georgia and Colo rado Ave?.; Brookland Station, 12th and Monroe Sts., N. E.; Central Sta tion. 15th and H Sts., N. W. ; Columbia^ Rd Station, 1775 Columbia Rd. N. W. ; Congress Heights Station, 400 Nichols Ave., S. E.; Connecticu POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH 23 Ave. Station, 1220 Connecticut Ave.. N. W.; nth St. Station, 514 nth St., N. W.; F St. Station, 800 F St., N. W.; Florida Ave. Station, Con- necticut and Florida Aves.; 14th St. Station, 1400 14th St., N. W. ; Friendship Station, 4511 Wisconsin Ave., N. W. ; Georgetown Station, 31st and M Sts., N. W. ; Langdon Station, 24th and Douglas Sts., N. E. ; Navy Dept. Station, 19th and B Sts., N. W.; Northeast Station, 703 Maryland Ave., N. E. ; Park Rd. Station, 14 13 Park Rd., N. W. ; Park View Station, Warder and Newton Sts., N. W. ; Pennsylvania Ave. Station, 1716 Pennsylvania Ave., N. W. ; Randle Highlands Station, 2500 Pennsylvania Ave., S. E. ; St. James Station, 484 Pennsylvania Ave., N. W.; 7th St. Station, 11 18 7th St., N. W.: Seat Pleasant Station, 63d & Eastern Ave., N. E. ; Southeast Station, 640 Pennsyl- vania Ave., S. E.; Southwest Station, 416 7th St., S. W. ; Takoma Park Station, 6818 4th St., Takoma Park, D. C; Treasury Station, U. S. Treasury; Truxton Circle Station, 1538 N. Capitol St.; U St. Station, U St. betw. 14th and 15th Sts.; Walter Reed Station, Walter Reed Hospital; Woodley Rd. Station, Wardman Park Hotel; Woodridge Sta- tion, 2103 Rhode Island Ave., N. E. Letter Boxes (painted green when outdoors) will be found at conveniently brief intervals, affixed to lamp posts, or within many of the large office buildings and hotels. Schedules of the time of collecting are posted on all of the letter boxes. There are only three deliveries a day, on week days, both in the business and residential districts (six deliv- eries to the leading hotels). No letters are delivered on Sundays, except "Special Delivery" letters. There are from eight to twenty collections on week days, varying in the dif- ferent districts ; three collections on Holidays, and two on Sundays. (For postal rates and other general ipostal regulations, see Rider's Nczv York City, pp. 45-47.) b. Telegraph and Cable Offices For details regardmg the Teilegraph service of the United States the foreign visitor is referred to Rider's New York City, p. 47. The Washington services of the two principal companies are as follows : Western Union Telegraph Company: main office, 1401 F St. N. W. ; branch offices, 613 and 900 Pennsvlvania Ave. N. W.; 705 15th St. N. W.; 1213 Wisconsin Ave. N. W. ; United States Capitol (m corridor leading to House Wing) ; 1 104 Connecticut Ave. N. W. ; 7th St. at corner of F St. N. W. ; 1420 Columbia Road N. W. ; House Office Building New Jersey Ave. and B St. S. E. ; Union Station, facing Plaza at Delaware and Massachusetts Aves. N. E. ; Colo- rado Building, cor. 14th and G Sts. N. W. ; New Willard Hotel, Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th St. N. W. ; Woodward Building, 1731 15th St. N. W. ; also in all the principal Gov- ernmental Departments. 24 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Postal Telegraph-Cable Company: main office, Evans Building, 1422 New York Ave. N. W.; branch offices, F St. corner of 8th St. N. \V.; Woodward and Lothrop, F St. corner of nth St. N. W . ; 1128 Connecticut Ave.; 1249 Wis- consin Ave. N. W. ; United States Capitol (in Senate base- ment); Union Station; National Hotel, corner Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. N. W^ ; and in all Government Departments. VI. Theatres, Concerts and Other Places of Entertainment Washington is exceptional among world Capitals in its relative dearth of high-class playhouses. It has no permanent local stock companies, and is dependent upon brief engage- ments (usually one-week stands or less) of companies on tour. It is significant that two of the best built modern houses in the city, the Belasco and Keith's, are wholly given over to vaudeville. Poli's Theatre (PI. H— D5), Pennsylvania Ave., E. side, betw. 14th and 15th Sts. High-class drama, musical comedy, etc. Seating capacity, 1900. The prices of seats vary from week to week according to the character and importance of the production. The following prices represent the maximum scale for a high-class musical show. Evenings, including Saturdays: Box seats, $3.85; orchestra, $3.36; orchestra circle, $2.75; balcony, first four rows, $2.20; next three rows, $1.65; remaining rows, $1.10; second balcony^ first four rows, 83c.; remaining rows, 58c. Saturday matinee: Box seats, $2.75; orchestra, $2.20; orchestra circle, $2.20; balcony, first four rows, $2.20; next three rows, $1.65; remaining rows $1.10; second balcony, 55c. Thursday matinee: Box seats $2.20; orcliestra and orchestra circle, $1.65; balcony, first four rows, $1.65; remaining rows, $r.io; seeond balcony 55c. New National Theatre (PI I— A2; p. 107), 1325 E St. High-class drama, opera, musical shows, concerts and lectures. The following prices represent the usual scale for the average dramatic show: Evenings and Saturday matinee: Box seats, $3.30; orchestra, $2.75; balcony, $2.20, $1.65 and $1.10; gallery, 55c. Wed- nesday matinee: Box seats, $3.30; orchestra, $2.20; balcony, $1.65 and $1.10; gallery, 55c. The following is the maximum scale for special productions, musical reviews, etc.: Evenings: Boix seats, $4-4o; orchestra. $3.30; balcony, $2.75, $2.20 and $1.65; gallery, $1.10 and 5SC. Saturday matinee: Box seats, $3.30; orchestra, $2.75; balcony, $2.20 and $1.65; gallery. $1.10 and 55c. Wednesday matinee: Box seats, $3.30; orchestra, $2.20; balcony, $1.65 and $1.10; gallery, 55c. Shubert-Garrick Theatre (Pl. I— C2), S. E. cor. 7th and F Sts. High-class drama. Seating capacity, c)6i. THEATRES AND CONCERTS 25 Average prices: Evenings, including Saturday: Lower box seats, $2.75; upper box seats, $2.20; lege seats, $2.20; orchestra, $2.20; balcony, rows A to D, $1.65; rows E to H, $1.10; rows I and J, ^sc Matinees: Lower box seats, $2.20; upper box and loge seats, $iT65; orchestra, $1.65; balcony, rows A to H, $1.10; I and J, 55c. New Capitol Theatre (PI. I — B2; p. 104), Pennsylvania Ave., E. side, betw. loth and nth Sts. Evenings and Sunday matinees: Box seats, $1.25; orchestra, rows 1-14, $1.10; rows 15-18, 85c.; remaining rows, 75c.; balcony, 55c. Sunday evenings and holidays: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra, rows 1-14, $1.10; remaining rows, 83c.; balcony, rows i-io, 55c.; remaining rows, 28c. Weekday matinees: Box seats, 85c.; orchestra, 5Sc.; balcony, 28c. Shubert-Belasco Theatre (PI. II— D4; p. 187), Madison Place, facing Lafayette Square. Vaudeville. Evenings, Monday to Friday: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra, $1.10; mezzanine $1.10; balcony, rows 1-5, 83c.; remaining rows, 55c.; gallery, 28c. Saturday, Sunday and holiday evenings: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra and mezzanine, $1.65; balcony, rows 1-5, $1.10; remaining rows, 83c.; gallery, 28c. Matinees: Monday to Friday: Box seats, $1.10; orchestra and mezzanine, 55c.; balcony, 39c.; gallery, 28c. Matinees: Saturday, Sunday and holidays: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra and mezzanine, $1.10; ba-lcony, rows 1-5, 83c.; remaining rows, S5C.; gallery, 28c. Keith's Theatre (PI. II— D4), S. E. cor. 15th and G Sts. Vaudeville. Evenings and holiday matinees: Box seats, $2.20; orchestra, rows A to K, $2.20; rows L to T, $1.65; rows U to W, $i.io; mezzanine, rows A to C, $1.10; rows, D to I, 83c.; balcony, rows A to F, 55c.; rows G to K, 39c. Matinees: Monday to Friday: Box seats, $1.10; orchestra, rows A to F, $1.10; rows G to T, 83c.; rows U to W, 55c.; Mezzanine, rows A to C, 55c.; rows D to I, 39c.: balcony, 28c. Matinees: Saturday and Sunday: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra, rows A to F, $1.65; rows D to T, $1.10: rows U to W, 83c; mezzanine, rows A to C, 83c.; rows D to I, 55c.; balcony, rows A to F, 39c.; rows G to K, 28c. Gayety Theatre (PI. I— B2), 511 9th St. Burlesque. Evenings: Monday to Saturday, and holiday matinees: Box seats, $1.25; orchestra, $1.25; balcony, rows A to G, 75c.; rows H. to M, 50c. Sunday and holiday evenings: Box seats, $1.25; orchestra, $1.25; Ijalcony, rows A to J, 85c.; rows K to M, 550. Matinees: Monday to Saturday: Box seats, $1.10; orchestra, rows A to N, 75c.; rows O to Y, soc; balcony, rows A to. G 50c.; rows H to M, 30c. Sunday matinees: Box seats, $1.25; orchestra A to N, $1.10; rows O to Y, 75c., balcony, rows A to G, 50c.; rows H to M, 30c. Cosmos Theatre (PI. I — B2), 919 Pennsylvania Ave. Vaudeville. Evenings and Saturday, Sunday and holiday matinees: Orchestra, 65c.; balcony, 40c. Matinees: Monday to Friday: Orchestra, 40c.; balcony 25c. 26 RIDER'S WASHINGTON There are in addition a considerable number of Motion Picture theatres at popular prices, usually ranging between 20C. and 6oc. Among those centrally located are the following : Loew's Columbia Theatre, cor. of F and 11th Sts. Loew's Palace Theatre, cor F and 13th Sts. Crandall's Theatre, cor. E and 9th Sts. Crandall's Metropolitan Theatre, 934-36 F St. •Crandall's Savoy Theatre, 14th St. and Columbia Road. Hippodrome, 9th St. and New York Ave. Regent Theatre, cor. U and 18th Sts. Circle Theatre, 2105 Pennsylvania Ave. Concerts and Other Musical Entertainments Washington has no high-class concert hall or other audi- torium reserved exclusively for musical entertainments. Con- certs of the higher grade are usually given at the National Theatre (p. 107), mornings or afternoons and Sunday eve- ning. These concerts are regularly advertised in the daily papers with notice where tickets may be purchased (seldom at theatre box office). Other halls often used for concerts are that of the A'ezv Masonic Temple, New York Ave. and 13th St., and the auditorium of the Central High School (p. 431). VII. Sports, Games, Etc. There is an abundant variety of sports practiced within the District of Columbia; and the casual visitor will not only have ample opportunities for watching his favorite games, but facilities for participating in them as well. In all sports within the District the color line is rigorously drawn. No account of sports within the District would be com- plete without mention of the Racquet Club (p. 30), which promotes all kinds of sports. This club has indoor tennis courts, racquet courts, gymnasium, swimming pool, etc., and resembles the New York Athletic Club both in its appoint- ments and its standing with regard to local athletics.^ A stranger visiting Washington, if armed with a letter of intro- duction to a member of the Racquet Club, would find easy access to any favorite sport. Strangers not so armed and desiring information alx)ut sports, would do best by consulting the sporting department on any daily paper, which will gladly give such information by phone. Athletics. Gvmnasiuvis : The Y. AI. C. A.. G St. betw. 17th and i8th Sts.; the Y. W. C. A., 14th and G Sts. and the K of C Hall, 916 loth St. Track Athletic meets, both SPORTS AND GAMES 27 indoor and outdoor, occur at various times during the year, colleges and clubs being the participants. There is no regular schedule. Baseball. The Washington American League Baseball Team plays at American League Park (p. 430), 7th St. and Florida Ave. (when not on the road), from April 15 to Oct. i. There are about a dozen amateur leagues in the District, which play in various fields, their schedules of games extending from May I to Sept. i. Four of the Diamonds used by these teams are on the Ellipse behind the White House; four others are on the Washington Monument grounds; and still another is on the grounds of the Railroad Y. M. C. A. adjoining Union Sta- tion on the E. Any one can attend these games free of charge ; there are, however, no seats. There are also semi-professional teams which play at Union Park, 15th and H Sts. N.E. every Sunday, from May i to Oct. i. From late March to June there are college games, played on Georgetown University Field, 36th and O Sts. ; Catholic University Field, 7th St. and Michigan Ave., N. E. and at Gallaudet College Field, 7th St. and Florida Ave., N.E. Bowling. A pirominent sport in Washington. Thirty leagues play matches from Oct. to June. There are many public alleys where nominal fees are charged. Boxing. This sport is forbidden within the District, and so strictly is the law enforced that it is not even permitted to demonstrate blows on the stage. The only boxing to be seen nearer than Baltimore is at the Service bouts at Fort Myer, across the river in Virginia. An admission fee is charged, the proceeds going to the Army Athletic Association. Canoeing. One of the leading sports in Washington dur- ing the summer. All the canoe clubs are located along the Potomac River, W. of Rock Creek. The principal clubs are the Washington Canoe Club, the Colonial Canoe Club, the Raccar Canoe Club and the Sycamore Island Canoe Club. And there are numerous smaller ones. The Washington Canoe Club is a member of the Chesapeake-Delaware Division of the American Canoe Association and has a famous four. Fencing. The Washington Fencing Club holds public matches with teams from other cities. Football. A leading sport in Washington. College games are played here during the season by Georgetown University (at American League Park, 7th St, and Florida Ave., N.E.). by George Washington University, Gallaudet College, the Cath- 28 RIDER'S WASHINGTON olic University and the University of Maryland (the last named being considered a District of Columbia institution since most of its students are graduates of Washington High Schools). The IVasliingtoii Professional Foot Ball Club, member of the American Professional Foot Ball Association, plays every Sunday during the season at American League Park. There are also various semi-professional teams. Soccer Football is represented by the teams of the National Capital Soccer Association — namely, the Washington Soccer Club, the Rangers, the Hibernians and the Harlems. These clubs plays double-headers on Sunday afternoons on the Monu- ment Lot Field, near Washington Monument. There is no admission fee because this is a Government reservation. Soc- cer is a new game in the District, and is coming into promi- nence. The men Avho play it are a cosmopolitan set, including men from the Legations. Golf. There are golf courses at the Columbia Country Club, Chevy Chase, Md. ; the Chevy Chase Club; the Bannock- burn Golf Club, Conduit Road, near Glen Echo, Md. ; Kirkside Golf Club, Chevy Chase, Md. ; the Tozvn and Country Club, Georgia Ave. and Crittenden St.; the Washington Golf and Country Club, Jewell Station, Va. (on Washington-Great Falls Electric Ry.) ; the Congressional Golf Club; the Indian Spring Golf Club, near Silver Spring, Md. ; and the Potomac Golf Club (playing on the Municipal course in East Potomac Park). Except Chevy Chase Club, these clubs extend usual club aourtesies. All Caddies are negroes. There are two nine-hole Municipal courses, one in Easi Potomac Park, the other in West Potomac Park, open prac- tically eleven months in the year. Fee 25 cents. Clubs can be rented at these Municipal courses, and lessons can be obtained from the professionals in charge. Reached by electric line, and public autos. also by packet boat from foot of 7th St., S. W. Polo. This game is fostered by the War Department, and Army tournaments are held spring and fall. Swimming. There is a Tidal Basin Bathing Beach, a public beach in the Basin in Potomac Park, W. of Washington Monument; a small fee is charged. The bathing houses (open 8 A. M. to sunset. June to Oct.) are well equipped, and suits and lockers can be rented. The influence of the tide is felt six miles above Washington, but the water is not salt. There are also Municipal pools (June to Oct., 6 A. M. to sunset) at 17th and B Sts., N. W. ; no charge. At all of these bathing places there are special hours for women, and separate days for negroes. CLUBS 29 Indoor Swimming. The Central Y. M. C. A., 1736 G St., has a public pool; fee, 25 cents. There are bathing pools at the Catholic University and the Central High School (p. 431) where contests are held during winter. The pool at the Central High School is open to the public during July and Aug. under the Community Centre Organization, an institu- tion of long standing in the District, under which the public has the use of the High Schools for entertainments. Tennis. The Washington City Tennis Association in- cludes the Dumbarton, Chevy Chase and Columbia Clubs. Matches are played on the courts of the Dumbarton Club (Wisconsin Ave. and R St.) every Saturday from May through Sepit. The Suburban Tennis League is organized annually, comprising from eight to ten teams. Matches take place every Saturday all over the District, and are open to the public. The Departmental Tennis League, composed of from eight to ten teams recruited in the Government Bureaus, play weekly matches. For dates and location see daily papers. There are some 40 Municipal Courts in Potomac Park, for the use of which permits must be obtained from the Superintendent of Public Buildings and Grounds (a Federal ofificer). Courts open 6 A. M. to sunset; no charge. Trap Shooting. The Washington Gun Club, afifiliated with the American Trap Shooting Association, has its range on Benning Road, adjoining the Potomac Electric Power Station. Shoots are held every Saturday throughout the year, and also on holidays. The club promotes many inter-city matches. Many prominent men of Washington are members, and the club's slogan is "Visitors Welcome." Yachting. The two chief clubs are the Capital Yacht Club (exclusive), at foot of 9th St., S. W., and the Cor- inthian Yacht Club, on the W. bank of the Potomac, S. of Highway BVidge. Races are held 20 mi. below Washington, where the Potomac, which is only a mile wide at Washington, broadens out to nearly five miles. VIII. Clubs Clubs play a prominent part in the social life of Washington ; yet while the number of important clubs is un- usually large, in proportion to population, organizations of a distinctly political nature are conspicuously absent. The chief clubs, to which, of course, strangers may obtain access only through introduction by a member, are given in the follow- ing list. 30 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Metropolitan Club (PI III— E3), N. \\\ cor. 17th and H Sts. (557 res. members; 784 non-res.; 22 diplomatic; 38 hon.) ; is, and always has been, the most prominent social club in Washington. Racquet Club (Pi. Ill— D3), i6th St., betw. L and M Sts. (600 res. meni'bers ; 700 non-res.); a modern athletic club on the lines of the New York and Boston Racquet Clubs, composed of the younger men of Washington, and socially quite important. A special feature is a large num- ber of rooms where members may put up their friends. Cosmos Club (PI. II— D4), S. E. cor. H St. and Madison Place, a club of world-wide renown with membership consisting largely of men of professional distinction in science, art or letters. (See p 188.) University Club (PI. II— D3), N. W. cor. of 15th and I Sts. : Membership limited to college graduates ; has a women's Annex with dining room for wives of members. A very active club, giving frequent dinners, dances and weekly lectures. The local Harvard, Princeton, Yale, etc., Alumni Associations, having no club rooms, hold their reunions here (p. 220). City Club (PI. Ill— E3). N. W. cor. Connecti- cut Ave. and I St.: Membership includes a majo^rity of the prominent Washington business men. National Press Club (PI. Ill— E3), 15th and G Sts.: Membership limited to men; but there are women's evenings, and there is a roof garden where women may dine on these evenings. Gridiron Club. This club has no club house, but gives at the New Willard (PI. I — A2), the most famous club dinners given in the United States, (see p. no). Two distinguishing rules which affect the character oif these dinners are : i. "Reporters kre never present"; 2. "Ladies are always constructively pres- ent'' — thus insuring freedom of speech and refinement. The membership is limited exclusively to newspaper correspond- ents. Arts Club of Washington (PI. Ill— E2). 2017 I St.: A small club of men affiliated with one or another of the arts. Army and Navy Club (PI. Ill — E3), N. E. cor, Connecticut Ave. and I St. : An old established club for officers of the two services ; strong social prestige. Riding and Hunt Club, 22d and P Sts. ; has a large tanbark ring where mem- bers ride in winter. Congressional Club (Pl.iIII — D3 — ^No, 29), New Hampshire Ave, and U St. : The leading women's club of W^ashington ; memibcrship Hmited to wives of Senators, Congressmen and Judges of the Supreme Court (see p, 207). IV omen's City Club (PI. Ill— E3), 22 Jackson Place: Has same general interests as the Men's City Club. American Association of University Women. No. 1634 I St.; Social center for the college and university SHOPS AND STORES 31 women of America (is€e p. 233). The Alibi Club, at i8o5 I St. A small club (40 members), formed by a limited group of socially prominent Washingtonians, chiefly college men, because "poker was not permitted at the University Club." It is mainly a dining club, and has an interesting collection of poems and other contributions written by visitors. Three organizations which have rapidly come to the front in civic matters are : The Rotary Club, the Kizvanis Club and the Lions Club, all three of which are composed of men who get-together for the purpose of improving the community in which they live. The numerous country clubs of Washington and vicinity include : Chevy Chase Club situated £t Chevy Chase, Md. (19 16 members, both sexes) : One of the oldest and most exclusive country clubs. Golf course over-crowded for com- fort. Columbia Country Club, also at Qievy Chase, Md., (both sexes) : Reputed to have a better golf course than the Chevy Chase Club. Congressional Country Club : This recently organized cluib of which Her*bert Hoover is a prom- inent officer, has just acquired [1922] a 406-acre tract in Maryland, and three golf courses, with a total of 45 holes, are in course of construction. The membership while including many Congressmen is not confined to them. Pierce-Mill Club, Great Falls, Md : Small membership. Montgomery County Club, furthest out of any of the clubs ; dinners, dances, trap shooting and tennis; but no golf. Dumbarton Tennis Club, Wisconsin Ave. and R Sts. : Exclusively for tennis. See also under "Sports, Games, etc." (p. 26). IX. Shops and Stores Art Dealers. *Veerhoff's Galleries, 1320 ¥ St.; *S. J. Venahle, I22S G St.; *Moore Galleries, 729 17th St.; Fred C. Haves Art Co., 1231 G St.; Charles B. Jarvis, 1309 G St.; The Antique Shop, 815 17th St.; Niepold & Sons, 913 F St.; /. 0. Akers, 1142 7* St.; Miss Jane Bartlett, 1337 Connecticut Ave. Book Stores. *Brentano's, S. W. cor. F and 12th Sts.; Pearlman's Book Shop, 931 G St.; Loxvdermilk & Co., 1424 F St. (rare books, prints, etc.); Rare Book Shop, 813 14th St.; *]Villiam Ballantyne & Sons, 1409 F St.; C. C. Pursell, 807 G St. Boots and Shoes. Arthur Burt Co., 1343 F St.; Edmonston & Co., 1334 F St.; Berberich. 813 Pennsylvania Ave.; Rich. N. W. cor. loth and F Sts.; Family Shoe Store. 310-12 7th St.; A'. Hess Sons, Inc., 931 Pennsylvania Ave.; IVm. Hahn & Co., City Club, G St. Many other well-known makes of shoes, such as the Cantilever, Emerson, Hanover, Regal and Dotrglas have local branches on Penn- sylvania Ave., chiefly between 9th and loth Sts. 32 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Children's Cl&thing. Kafka. X. E. cor. F and loth Sts.; Juvenile Shop, 1 1 05 Connecticut Ave. China and Glass, Dulbi & Martin Co., i2'i5 F St.; Slierratt's China Art SUorc. 608 13th St.; Tuck Cheong &■ Co., 342 Pennsylvania Ave. See also "Oriental Goods." Cigars and Tobacco. G. G. Carnwell & Son, 141 5 H St.; Henrv T. Offtcrdinger, 508 9th St.; W . H. Warner, 308 9th St.; United Cigar Stores Co., 626 14th St.; branches: 1704 Pennsylvania Ave.; S. E. cor. ;th and F Sts.; 1349 E St.; 707 15th St.; 9th and E Sts.; 1941 14th St.; 500 9th St. Clothiers and Haberdashers. *Sidney West, Colorado Building, N. E. cor. G and 14th Sts.; *Stinemet2 & Son Co., cor. F and 12th Sts.; *D. J. Kaufman, 1005-7 Pennsylvania Ave.; Saks & Co., N. W. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 7th St.; The Young Men's Shop, 1319-21 F St.; Raleigh Haberdasher, 1109-11 Pennsylvania Ave.; Philip T. Hail, 141 1 F St.; The Mode, S. E. cor. nth and F Sts.; Parker, Bridget & Co., Pennsylvania Ave. and 9th St.; The Willard Shop, 511 14th St.; Meyer's Shops, 133 1 F St. Confectioners and Caterers. *Demonet, Connecticut Ave. and M St.; *Rausclier's, 1034 Connecticut i.\ve.; Brownlev's. 1205 G St.; 1302 F St.; Vclati, 609 14th St.; Huyler's, 1119 F St., 617 15th St.: John Kolb, 1508 14th St.; Stahlman, 1254 Wisconsin Ave.; Louis Boeck- styn's, 2016 14th St.; 5". A. Reeves, 1209 F St.; Hubert, Inc., 1803 Connecticut Ave.; Cinderella Candy Shop, 617 14th St.; Nunnally's, 1223 F St.; Velati, 620 9th St.; Louise Candy Shoppe, 1616 H St., 1714 H St.; Martha Washingho-n Candies, 12th St. betw. E and F Sts. Drug Stores. Affleck, isth and F Sts.; F. H. Ridgway, Connecticut and Florida Aves. ; People's Drug Store. N. W. cor. 7th and ICl Sts., S. W. cor. 7th and E Sts.. cor. 7th and M Sts.. 703 15th St.. 1107 G St., and numerous other branches; Ditpont Pharmacy, s Dupont Circle; Dorman Homeopathic Pharmacy, 1007 H St.; King's, S. E. cor. 14th and Massachusetts Ave.; Christiana, N. W. cor. 9th and Pennsyl- vania Ave.; Tschiifelv Bros., 1203 Connecticut Ave.; Liggett' s, 1006 F St., 1345 F St., 904 ¥ St., 1301 F St., 418 7th St.. 70X isth St., 1237 Pennsylvania Ave., 1717 Pennsylvania Ave.: O'Donnell's, 604 9tli St., 301 Pennsylvania Ave., 1118 F St., 401 E. Capitol St. Embroideries and Laces. The Lace Shop, mi F St.; The Em- broidery Shop, 827 iith St.; French Lace Shop, 1208 G St.: F. A. Zraick, 1105 Connecticut Ave.; Alice Maynard, 1303 F St. Florists. Glide Bros. Co., 1214. F St.; Blackistone, N. W. cor. 14th and H Sts.; Marche & Co., S. E. cor. 14th and H Sts.; George C. Shaffer, 900 14th St.; /. H. Small & Sons, Inc., S. E. cor. 15th and H Sts.; Louise Flower Shop, Connecticut Ave. and N St. Hair Dressers. * Cummins, 1756 M St.; Borden's, 1115 G St.; Katie E. Dunn, 517 nth St.; Hepner, 525 13th St.; Rochon, 916 14th St.; George & Emile, 920 17th St.; Emile, 121 3 Connecticut Ave.; B'Oston Beauty Shop, 1006 F St.; Desire Bannery, 24125^2 i8th St. Ladies' Tailors. Pluym's, 1220 Connecticut Ave.; Frank Faust, 1020 17th St.; M. Pasternak, 1232 14th St.; Paul Leibel, 121 5 G St. Milliners. Howard] & Deane, 1309 F St.; J. M. Ash, 1217 Con- necticut Ave.; I. L. Blout, 710 7th St.; Grimes, 1404 H St.; Young's, 1303 Connecticut Ave.; Zimmerman. 1307 Connecticut Ave.: Fox-Leary, 8 [4 17th St.; Maison Lihby. 13th and G Sts. Opticians. Franklin & Co., 1329 F St.; Frank H. Edmonds, 809 15th St. CHURCHES, RELIGIOUS SERVICES 33 Oriental Goods. The Pagoda, 1625 H St.; Hekimian Nejib, 1512 H St. (Oriental rugs); Suzuki & Co., 614 14th St.; Cuang Wall Yuen, 318 Pennsylvania Ave. Photographers. *Clinedinst Studio, 14th and H Sts.; *Harris & Ewing, 131 1 F St.; Brooks Studio, 1^29 F St.; /. D. Boyce, 1325 F St.; Rice Studio, 1203 F St.; Edmonston's Studio, 1407 F St.; Bach- rack's Studio, 1327 F St.; Towle's Studio, 1520 Connecticut Ave.: G. V. Buck, 1 1 13 F St.; Eastland Studio, 1107 F St.; Underwood, 1230 Connecticut Ave. Silversmiths and Jewelers. *Berry & IVhitunre Co., N. W. cor. nth and F Sts.; *Galt & Bro., 11 07 Pennsylvania Ave.; Salvatore Desio, 926 F St.; R. Harris & Co., N. W. cor. 7th and D Sts.; Harris & Shafer Co., 1308 F St.; Whitemore, Lynn & Alden Co., 1225 F St.; Lucios Jewelry Co., 1307 F St.; Shaw & Brown Co., 1114 F St. Souvenirs, Post Cards, etc. "National Remembrance Shop, 503 14th St.; John F. Jarvis, 2d St. and Pennsylvania Ave.; A. C. Bossel- man, 473 Pennsylvania Ave. Sporting and Athletic Goods. A. G. Spalding, 613 14th St.; D. N. Walford, 909 Pennsylvania Ave.; Jloxvard A. French Co., 424 9th St.; The Spcrt Market, Inc., 905 F St., 1410 New York Ave. Stationers. Brentano's, S. W. cor, 12th and F Sts.; Berry & Whitmore, N. W. cor nth and F Sts.; Gait & Bro., 1107 Pennsylvania Ave.; R. P. Andrezvs Paper Co., 727-31 13th St.; Baum Paper and Stationery Co., 905 7th St. (crepe paper, etc.); Stocket-Fiske Co., 919 E St.; Brewood, 12th between F and G Sts.; Copenhaver, 1521 Con- necticut Ave.; Morrison Paper Co., 1009 Pennsylvania Ave.; Brown, 1 30 1 Connectichit Ave. Trunks and Leather Goods. * Becker. 1324 F St.; H. W. Topham, 1212 G St.; G. A. Kneessi, 1231 G St.; K. Kneessi's Sons, 425 7th St., Luts, 1325 G St. Umbrellas and Walking Sticksi. Mrs. M. A. Griswould, 411 nth St.; French Umbrella Shop, 718 13th St. See also "Clothiers and Haberdashers." Women's Outfitters. *Stinemets & Son Co., 1201 F St.; * Julius Garfinkle & Co., S. E. cor. F and 13th Sts.; /. M. Giddings & Co., 15 10 H St.; Philipsborn, 608-14 nth St.; Kafka, N. E. cor. F and loth Sts.; Louvre, ins F St., 15 10 H St.; Risik Br>os., 1213 F St.; Leverton's, 1106 G St.; M. Brooks & Co., 1 107-9 G St.; Woodzvard & Lothrop, nth and F Sts.; Erlebacher's, 1210 F St.; Frank R. Jelleff. 1216 F St,; Palais Royal, nth and G Sts. X. Churches, Religious Services For the convenience of visitors wishing to attend service at churches of their ov^n denomination, the following selective list of the more important places of worship is given, the denominations being classed alphabetically. There are in all about 358 churches in the District of Columbia, inclusive of Chapels and Missions. Of these 115 are for negroes. The principal denominations are represented as follows in order of their numerical importance: A. White: Protestant Episcopal, 43; Methodist Episco- pal, 35; Presbyterian, 27; Baptist, 26; Roman Catholic, 25; Lutheran, 17; Methodist Protestant, 8; Methodist Episcopal 34 RIDER'S WASHINGTON South, 7; Disciples of Christ, 7; Hehrezv, 4; Society of Friends, 3; Congregational, 3; Reformed, Swedenhorgian, Unitarian and Universalist, 1 each. B. Colored: Baptist, 66; Methodist Episcopal, 34; Protestant Episcopal, 7; Pr^j- byterian, 3; Congregational, 3; Roman Catholic, 2. The usual hours at which services are held are ii A.M. and 8 P. M. In the following selective list the hours of service are given only in the cases where they are at variance with the usual practice. Announcement of services at the leading churches, together with subjects of the sermons, and special musical programs, will be found in the Saturday papers, notably in the Evening Star. Baptist: First Baptist (p. 201), i6th and O Sts. ; Rev. Henry Allen Tupper, D. D., Minister. — Immanuel Baptist i6th St. and Columbia Road; Rev. G. G. Johnson, D. D., Pastor.— Cfl/irrav Baptist, 8th and H Sts.; Rev. W. S. Abernethy/ D.D., ¥2iSior.— Temple Baptist, loth and N Sis.— West Washington Baptist, 31st and N Sts. (Georgetown) ; services 11 A. M. and 7.30 P. M. — Metro"' politan Baptist, 6th and A Sts. N. E. ; services 11 A. M. and 7.45 P. M. -^Maryland Avenue, 14th St. and Maryland Ave. N. E.— Fifth Baptist, E St. near 7th St. N. W. ; services II A. M. and 7.45 P. M.— Kendall Baptist, 9th St. near B St. S. W. ; services 11 A. M. and 7.30 P. AI, Christian: Vermont Avenue Christian Church (p. 221), Vermont Ave. north of -N St.; Rev. Earle Wifle}-, D. D., Pastor. Christian Scientists : First Church of Christ, Scien- tist, Columbia Road and Euclid St. — Second Church of Christ, Scientist, 8th and F Sts. N. E. Congregational : First, loth and G Sts. N. W. ; Rev. Jason Noble Pierce, Minister. — Mt. Pleasant Congrega- tional, Columbia Road near 14th St. ; Rev. Walton Amos Morgan, Minister. Jewish : Washington Hebrew Congregation, 8th St., between H and I Sts.; services Friday 8 P. M., Saturday 10 A. M. — Adas Israel, orthodox ; services Friday 6 P. M., Saturday 8 A. M. Lutheran: Luther Place Memorial (p. 221), 14th and^N Sts. N. W. ; Rev. G. M. Dififenderfer, Fastor.— Epiphany (p. 207), i6th and U Sts.; Rev. Charles F. Steck, D. D., Pas"- tor. — St. Paul, cor. nth and H Sts., N. W., — Atonement, North Capitol St. and Rhode Island Ave. — Keller Memorial. CHURCHES, RELIGIOUS SERVICES 35 Mao'land Ave. and 9th St. N. E.— Reformation, 2d and B Sts. S. E. Methodist Episcopal: Metropolitan (p. 134), John Mar- shall Place and C St.; Rev. Harry J3a\vson Mitchell, D. D., Minister. — Wesley Clwpel, cor, F and 5th Sts. — Foundry (p. 202), i6ith and Ohurch Sts.; Rev. Herbert F. Ran- dolph, D.D., Minister. — Hamline, 9th and P Sts. ; Rev. Hamil- ton P, Fox, Pastor. — Calvary. Columbia Road, between 14th and 15th Sts.; Rev. James Shera Montgomery, Minister. — Trinity M. E. (formerly Ebeneser; see p. 411 )> Pennsylvania Ave. and 5th St. S. E. ; services 11 A. M. and 7.30 P.M. Presbyterian: First Presbyterian Church (p. 136), John Marshall Place, between C and D Sts. ; Rev. John Brittan Clark, D. D., V^siov.— New York Avenue P. C. (p. 231), at cor. of New York Ave., 13th and H S^s. — Church of the Covenant (p. 22:^), at S. E. cor. of Connecticut Ave., i8th and N Sts.; Rev. Charles Wood, Minister. — Gunton-Temple Memorial, I4|h and R Sts. ; Rev. Bernard Bras- kamp, Pastor. — Gurley Alcnwriai, 14th St. and* Meri- dian Place.' — Northminster, iitli St. and Rhode Island Ave.; services 11 A. M. and 7-45 P. M. — Washington Heights, Columbia and Kalorama Roads ; Rev. John C. Pal- mer, D. D., Minister; services 11 A. M. and 7.45 P. M.— Fourth Church, 13th and Fairmount Sts. — West Street Church, P St. near 35th St. (Georgetown) (p. 464). Protestant Episcopal: The Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul Bethlehem Chapel (p. 455), Mt. St. Alban, D. C. ; serv- ices 7.30, , 10 and II A. M. and 4 P. M. — St. John's Church (p. 195), i6th and H Sts.; Church of the Epiphany (p. 150), G St. near 14th St.; Rev. James E, Freeman, D.D., Rector; services 8 and 11 A. M. and 4 and 8 P. M. — Church of the Ascension (p. 227), Massa- chusetts Ave. and 12th St.; services 8 and 11 A. M. and 5 and 8 P. M. — St. Thomas (p. 234), cor. of i8th and Church Sts.; services 8, 10.15 and ii A. M. — St. Paul's, 23d St. near Washington Circle; serv- ices 7.30, 10 and II A. M. and 8 P. M. — Church of the Incarnation, cor. of N and 12th Sts. ; services 7.30 and II A. M. and 5 P. M. — St. Margaret's, Connecticut Ave. and Bancroft Place; services 7.30 and ii A. M. and 8 P. M. — Christ Church (p. 406), G St.. between 6th and 7th Sts. S. E. — St. James, 8th St. near Massachusetts Ave. N. E. ; services 7.30 and II A. M. and 3.30 and 7.45 P. M. — All Souls' Memo- 36 RIDERS WASHINGTON rial, Connecticut and Cathedral Aves. — Church of the Advent, cor. of 2d and U Sts. ; services 7.30 and 11 A. M. and 8 P. M. — St. John's, Georgetown Pardsh (p. 472), 3240 O St.; services 7.30 and II A. M. and 7.30 P. M. — Christ Church, Georgetown Parish (p. 472), oor. of 31st and O Sts.; services 7.30 and 11 A. M. and 7.30 P. M. — St. Paul's, Rock Creek Parish (p. 436), in Rock Creek Cemetery; services 11 A. M. Reformed: Grace Reformed Church (p. 231), 15th and O Sts. ; Rev. Henry H. Ranck, Pastor. Roman Catholic: St. Patrick's (p. 147), loth St., be- tween F and G Sts.; Sunday Masses 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 A. M.. A'espers 4 P. M. — St. Aloysius (p. 362), North Capitol and I Sts.; Sunday Masses 6, 7, 8 and 11 A. M., Vespers 7.30 P. M. — St. Mat\theii''s (p. 234). Rhode Island Ave. near Connecti- cut Ave.; Sunday Masses 7, 9, 10 and 11 A. M., Vespers 4 P. M.—St. Paul's, 15th and V Sts.; Sunday Masses 6, 7, 8, g; 10 and II A. M., Vespers 7.30 P. M. — St. Stephen's, Pennsylvania Ave. and 25th St. ; Sunday Classes 6, 7. 9, 10 and II A. M., Vespers 4.30 P. M. — St. Dominic, 6th St., between E and F Sts. S. W. ; Sunday Masses 6, 7.30. 9, 10 and II A. M., Vespers 7.30 P. M. — St. Joseph's (p. 365), 2d and C Sts. N. E. ; Sunday Masses 7, 9 and 10.30 A. M., Vespers 4 P. M. — St. Peter's (p. 411), 2d and C Sts. S. El.; Sunday Masses 7, '9 and 10.30 A. M. — St. Mary's (German), 5th St., between G and . H Sts. ; Sunday Masses 7.30, 9.15 and 10.30 A. M., Vespers 4 P. M. — Holy Trinity, 36th and O Sts. (Georgetown) ; Sunday Masses 6, 7, 9, 10 and 11 A. M., Vespers 7.30 P. M, — Church of the Franciscan Monastery, 14th and Quincy Sts. N. E. ; Sunday Masses 5.30, 6, 7.30 and 9 A. M. Society of Friends: Friends Meeting House, 181 1 I St.; services 11 A. M. SwEDENBORGiAN : Church of the New Jerusalem (p. 203), i6th and Corcoran Sts.; Rev. Paul Sperrv, Pastor; services .11 A. M. Unitarian: All Soul/ Church (p. 232). cor. 14th and L Sts.; Rev. Ulysses G. B. Pierce, D. D., Minister. Universalist: Church of Our Father, 13th and L Sts. N. W. ; Rev. John Van Schaick, Jr., D. D., Pastor. The principal negro congregations are: Baptist: Vermont .Avenue, Vermont Ave., betw. Q and R Sts.— Metropolitan, R St., betw. 12th and 13th Sts. — Nineteenth Street, :9th St., cor. I St. — Florida Avcuitc, Florida Ave. near 7th St. — Walker LIBRARIES AND READING ROOMS Z7 Memorial, 13th St., betw. U and V Sts. Methodist Episcopal: Asbiiry, K St., cor. nth St. — Metropolitan A. M. E., M. St., near 15th St.— Mt. Zion, 29th St., betw. Dumbarton Ave. and O St. — Ebenezer, D St., cor. 4th St. S.E. Presbyterian: Fifteenth Street, 15th St., betw. I and K Sts! Protestant Episcopal: St. Luke's, 15th St., cor. Church St. — St. Mary's Chapel, 23d St., betw G and H Sts. Calvary Chapel, nth St., cor. G St., N.E. Roman Catholic: St. Augustine's Cp. 231), isth St., near M St. — St. Cyprian, 13th and C Sts., S.E. XI. Libraries and Reading Rooms Washington contains approximately 170 libraries ; and owing to the fact that these include the libraries of the various Departments of Government, several large Univer- sities, the Smithsonian Institution, and other scientific socie- ties, it results that the library facilities of Washington are unrivaled by any other city in America. The following list is limited to the libraries which, to a greater or less degree, are open to the public. Library of Congress, ist and B Sts. S. E. Open daily, excepting Christmas and the 4th of July. Week days 9 A. M. to 10 P. M., Sundays and Holidays 2 to 10 P. M. Resources, 3,000,000 printed books and pamphlets, and nearly 2,000,000 other items. For reference use the library is free to any reader over sixteen years of age. The classes of borrowers are designated by statute (p. 369). Public Library of the District of Columbia, Mount Vernon Square. Open from 9 A. M. to 9 P. M. week days, including Holidays (except Christmas and the 4th of July). Sundays, 2 to 9 P. M. Resources 230,000 vols. This is a circulating and reference library, free to all persons living in the District of Columbia, and to residents of Mary- land' and Virginia employed in the District (p. 226). State Department Library, in the State, War and Navy Building. Open 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily except Sundays and Holidays. Re- sources, 70,000 vols. Reference library for use of State Department and Diplomatic Corps. All others must obtain permission from the Secretary, Assistant Secretaries or Chief of the Bureau dp. 126). Library of the General Staff College, in General Staff College Building. Resources, 150,000 vols, and pamphlets. Open to the public for reference only, from 9, A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays (p. 351). Library of the Surgeon General's Office, 7th and B -Sts., S. W. Resources, approximately 600.000 books and pamphlets. Open to the public for reference, 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. Books are lent to the medical .prof ession ' (p. 250). Columbus Memorial Library, Pan-American Union, 17th and B Sts., N. W. Resources, 45,000 vols. Reference library open free to the public, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. The collection is entirely Latin-American (p. 162). Daughters of the American Rei'olution Memorial Library, iy\.\\ and D Sts., S. W. Resourcels 10,000 vols. Reference library open to the public, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. Specialty, American history and genealogy (p. 155^- Columbia Historical Society Library, Pacific Building, 622 F St., N. W. Resources, 700 vols, and 3500 pamphlets. Open Wednesdays 38 RIDER'S WASHINGTON II A. M. to 4 P. M. from November to May. At other times by special appointment with the Secretary. Students of local history are welcome tO' the use of the library (p. 141). Riggs Memorial Library, Georgetown University, 37th and Sts. Resources, 165,000 vols. The use of the main part of this collection is restricted; to the students and alumni of the University (.p. 469). The Morgan Colonial Maryland and District of Colnmbia Library, Georgetown College (resources. 4000 vols.), is open for reference to all investigators of Maryland, Colonial and District of Columbia history. Hours'S-ii to( 2-5 P. M. daily (p. 467). Library of the Catholic University of America, Brookland. Re- sources, 132,000 vols. Open to the public for reference daily, except Sundays, 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. (p. 416). Interstate Commerce Commission Library, i8th and Pennsylvania Ave., N. W. Resources, 16,000 vols, and 20,000 pamphlets. Open to the public for reference, 9 A. ]M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. Specialty, railroad literature and law (p. 216). Bureau of Railway Economics l^ibrary, 429 Homer Building. Resources, 100,000 vols. Open free for reference to any one interested, week-days from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M., except Saturdays, when it closes at I P. M. Department of Labor Library (U. S.), Labor Building 1712 G Street. Resources, 80,000 vols. Open for reference to* all (investigators of social problems, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. Specialties, Labor, immigration, naturalization, statistics, child welfare, housing. Civil Service Commission Library, (U. S.), 1724 F St., N. W. Resources, about 4200 vols. Reference library open to the public from 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. (p. 153)- Library of the American Federation of Labor, cor. Massachusetts Ave. and 9th St. Resources, 6,000 vols. Intended primarily for the use of members, but students and investigators are welcome. Open 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays (p. 227). Public Documents Library, North Capitol and H Sts. Resources, approximately 280,000 vols. Free to the public for reference. Open 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. This library was founded primarily for the preservation of U. S. Governr ment publications (p. 361). Department of Commerce Library (U. S.), 19th and Pennsylvania Ave. N. W. Resources, 110,000 vols, and pamphlets. Reference library, primarily for the use of the Bureau, but open to any enquirers, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. -\I. daily, except Sundays and Holidays (p. 216). Patent Office Library (Department of the Interior), Patent Office Building. Law and Scientific Libraries (resources, respectively 6000 and 80,000 vols.), both open freel to the public for reference, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M., except Sund&ys and Holidays (p. 142). Library of the Bureau of Education, Pension Office Building, 5th and F Sts., N. W. Resources, 175,000 vols. Open for reference. 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays, to all persons interested in educational matters (p. 139)- Library of the Bureau of American Ethnology, Smithsonian Insti- tution. Resources, 40,000 vols', and pamphlets. Reference lilirary for the use of the Bureau staff, but privileges are extended to other readers. Specialty, anthropology, particularly works pertaining to American aborig- ines (p. 288). LIBRARIES AND READIXG ROOMS 39 National Miisetim Library, B St. and the Mall. Resources, 155,000 vols, and ipamphlets. Open to the public for reference, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. The collection is wholly scientific (p. 260). Library of the Department of Agriculture, 12th and B Sts., S. W. Resources, 155,000 vols, and pamphlets. Reference library open- free to the public daily, except Sundays and holidays, 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. The collection is strong in agriculture in all its branches, forestry, botany, economic entomology, etc. (p. 254). Bureau of Fisheries Library (U. S. Department of Commerce), 6th and B Sts. S. W. Resources, about 41,000 vols. Open free to the public for reference use, 9 A, M. to 4.30 P. ^I.^ except Sundays and Holidays (p. 245). Library of the Geological Survey, Interior Department Building. Resources, 150,000 vols, and pamphlets; 37,000 maps. Open to the public for reference 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M., except Sundays and holidays. Collection restricted td geologj' and related sciences (p. 213). Library of the Coast and Geodetic Survey (U. S. Department of Commerce), Nevk^ Jersey Ave. and B St., S. E. Resources, 25,000 vols. and pamphlets; 35,000 maps. Reference library for the use of the Bureau, but free to any responsible iperson properly vouched for (p. 405). Library of Bureau of Standards, Pierce Mill Road, W. of Connecti- cut Ave. Resources, about 22.000 vols. Open to the public for ref- erence, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. De- voted exclusively to physics, technology, chemistry and mathematics, (p. 441). Library of the Naval Observatory, Massachusetts Ave. and W St., N. W. Resources, about 36,000 vols. Open to the public for reference, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. This library is supposed to contain the best collection of astronomical litera- ture in the western hemisphere (p. 442). Weather Bureau Library, 24th and M Sts., N. W. Resources, 52,000 vols, and pamphlets. Open 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. Reference library intended primarily for the use of the Bureau, but is open to outsiders engaged in scientific in- vestigation (p. 219). Library of the Volta Bureau, 1601 35th St. N. W. Resources, 15,000 vols. Open free to the public, 8.30 to 12 A. M. and i to 5 P- -M- .daily, except Sundays and holidays. During June, July and August it closes on Saturdays at noon (p. 475). Library of the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, Jackson Place. Resources, about 17,000 vols. Open free to the public every day from 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. except Saturday, when it closes at I P. M. Specializes in international law and literature of peace and war. Library of the Supreme Council of the 33d Degree, Scottish Rite Temple, i6th and S Sts. Resources, 100,000 vols, and pamphlets. Open 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. Free for reference to any person vouched for by a member. Specialty, literature of Freemasonry (p. 206). Masonic Library of the Grand Lodge. F. A. A. M., Masonic Temple, New York Ave. and 13th St. N. W. Resources about 3S00 vols. A circulating library of general fiction and ^lasonic reference works. Free to any one on recommendation by a Mason. Hours 10 A. M. to 8 P. ]M., Sundays and Holidays excepted (p. 231). Mount Saint Sepulchre (Franciscan Monastery) Library, Brookland. Resources, about 12,000 vols. Open to the public for reference throughout the day and evening (p. 423). 40 RIDERS WASHINGTON Christian Science Library, Colorado Building, cor. 14th and G Sts., N. W. Statistics not at present [1922] available. Open free to the public' Sundays, 2.30 to 5.30 P. ]M.. week days, 10 A. M. to 9.30 P. M., except Wedne^sdays, when it closed at 7 P, M. Carroll Institute Library, 912-920 loth St., N. W. Resources, 5000 vols. A general library and reading-room open free, 9 A. M. to 10 P. M. daily except Sundays and Holidays. Peabody Library Association of Georgetown, 3233 O St., N. W. Resources, 9000 vols. Free for reference to the public, 6 to 9 P. M. daily, except Saturdays and Sundays. Library of tlie Smithsonian Institution, B and loth Sts., S. W. Resources, 300,000 vols. Scientific and technical books, and explora- tions. Open to the public for reference, 9 to 4.30 daily, except Sundays and holidays. U. S. Soldiers' Home Library, Rock Creek Church Road and Upsher St. Resources, about 16,000 vols. Open to the public for reference, 7.30 A. M. to 8.30 P. M. (p. 432). XII. Miscellaneous Services for the Traveller a. Foreign Embassies and Legations Argentina — Embassy, 1806 Corcoran St.; Mr. Tomas A. Le Breton, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary. Belgium — Embassy, 1780 Massachusetts Ave. ; Baron de Cartier de Marchienne, Ambassador E. and P. (absent) ; Mr. F. de Selys de Fanson, Charge d'Affaires. Bolivia — Legation, 1707 Massachusetts Ave. ; Senor Adolf Ballk'ian, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary. Brazil— (Embassy, 1603 H St.; Mr. Angusto Cochrane de Alencar, Ambassador E. and P. Bulgaria— Legation, 1821 Jefferson Place; Mr. Stephan Panarctoff, E.E. and M.P. Chile — Embassy, 1013-1015 Woodv^^ard Building; Senor Don Beltran Mathieu, Ambassador E. and P. China— Legation, 2001 19th St.; Mr. Sao-Ke Alfred Sse. E.E. and M.P. Colombia — ^Legation, 2701 Connecticut Ave. ; Senor Don Carlos Uribe, Charge d'Affaires. Costa Rica— Legation. 2230 California St. ; Sefior Dr. Don Octavio Beeche, E.E. and M.P. Cuba— Legation. 2630 i6th St. ; Dr. Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, E.E. and M.P. Czechoslovakia— Legation, 2040 S St.; Dr. Bedrich Stepdnek, E.E. and M.P. Denmark— Legation. 434 Southern Builling; Mr. Con- stantin Brun, E.E. and M.P. EMIBASSIES AND LEGATIONS 41 Dominican Republic — Legation, 1631 Massachusetts Ave.; Licdo. Emilio C. Jonbert, E.E. and M.P. Ecuador — Legation, 1633 i6th St. ; Senor Dr. Don Rafael H. ElimJde, E.E. and M.P. Finland — Legation, 1041-1044 Munsey Building; Mr. Axel Leonard Astrom, E.E. and M.P, France — Embassy, 2460 i6th St. ; M. J. J. Jusscrand, Ambassador E. and P. Germany — Embassy, 1435 Massachusetts Ave. Great Britain — Embassy, 1301 19th St. ; Right Hon. Sir Atuckland Gcddes, Ambassador E. and P. Greece — Legation, 1838 Connecticut Ave. ; Mr. George Dracopoulos, Charge d'Affaires. Guatemala — Legation, 2800 Ontario Road ; Dr. Julio Bianchi, E.E. and M.P. Haiti — Legation, 819 15th St., Rooms 28-29; Mr. Albert Blanchet, E.E. and M.P. Honduras — Legation, The Northumberland ; Senor Don J. Antonio Lopes Gutierrez, E.E. and M.P. Italy — Embassy, 1400 New Hampshire Ave.; Senator Vittorio Rolandi Ricci, Ambassador E. and P. Japan — Embassy, 1310 N. St.; Baron Kijiiro ShideJiara, Ambassador E, and P. Luxemburg — Legation, The Powhatan ; Baron Raymond de Waha, Charge d'Affaires. Mexico — ^Embassy, 1413 I St. ; Senor Don Salvador Diego- Fernandez, Charge d'Affaires. Netherlands — Legation, 1800 Connecticut Ave.; Dr. J. C. A. Everzmjn, E.E. and M.P. Nicaragua — Legation, 2347 Ashmead Plr.ce ; Senor Don Emiliano Chamorro, E.E. and M.P. Norway — Legation, The Wyoming. Col: mbia Rd. and California St.; Mr. H. H. Bryn, E.E. and M.P. Panama — Legation, 2400 i6th St. ; Senor Don J. E. Le- fevre, Charge d'Affaires. Persia — Legation, 1513 i6th St.; Mirza Hussein Khan Alai, E.E. and M.P. Peru — Legation, 2726 Connecticut Ave. ; Senor Don Fed- erico Alfonso Pczet, Ambassador E. and P. Poland — Legation, 2640 i6th St. ; Prince Casimir Lubo- mirski, E.E. and M.P. 42 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Portugal — Legation, The Wardman Park; Viscount d'Alte, E.E. and M.P. Rumania — Legation, 1607 23d St.; Prince A. Bibesco, E.E. and M.P. Russia — Embassy, 1125 i6th St. Salvador — ^Legation, The Wardman Park ; Senor Don Salvador Sol M., E.jE. and M.P. (absent) ; Senor Dr. Don Octavio Beeche, Minister of Costa Rica, in charge of Lega- tion. Serbs, Croats and Slovenes — Legation, 1339 Connecticut Ave.; Dr. Slavko Y. Groiiitch, E.E. and M.P. Siam — ^Legation, 2300 Kalorama Road ; Phya Prabha Karavongse, E.E. and M.P. Spain — Embass3% 1673 Columbia Road; Sefior Don Juan Riano y Gayangos, Ambassador E. and P. Sweden— Legation, 2249 R St.; Capl. Axel F. Wallenberg, E.E. and M.P. Switzerland— Legation, 2013 Hillyer PI. and 1439 Massa- chusetts Ave.; Mr. Marc Peter, E.E. and M.P. Uruguay — Legation, American National Building, 13 17 F. St.; Dr. Jacoho Varela, E.E. and M.P. Venezuela — Legation, 1406 Massachusetts Ave. ; Serior Don Santos A. Dominici, E.E. and M.P. b. Banks and Trust Companies Banks: National Metropolitan Bank, 613 isth St.; Riggs National Bank of Washington, 1503 Pennsylvania Ave.; American National Bank, 13 1 5 F St.; Columbia National Bank, 911 F St.; Commercial \ational Bank, 700 14th St.; District National Bank, 1406 G St.; Federal National Bank, cor. 14th and G Sts.; National Bank of Washington, cor. 7th and C Sts.; Washington Southern Bank, 1413 G St.; Second National Bank, 507 7th St.; Franklin National Bank, cor. loth St. and Pennsylvania Ave.; Lincoln National Bank, cor. of 7th and D Sts.: Dti Pont National Bank, 1341 Connecticut Ave. Trust Companies: Altinsey Trust Company, cor. 15th and H. Sts.; Washington Loan and Trust Company, cor. F and 9th Sts.; American Security and Trust Company, N. W. cor. 15th St. and Pennsylvania Ave.; Continental Trust Company, cor. 14th and H Sts.; National Savings and Trust Company, cor. New York Ave. and istli St.; Unior Trust Company, S. W. cor. 15th and H Sts. c. Hospitals The following is a selected list of the more important Washington hospitals : Central Dispensary and Emergency Hospital, New York Ave. betw. 17th and i8th Sts. Children's Hospital, 13th and W Sts. Columbia Hospital for Women, STEAjMISHIP and STEAiMBOAT lines 43 25th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. Eastern Dispensary and Cas- ua>Ity Hospital, 708 Massachusetts Ave. N. E. Episcopal Eye, Ear and Throat Hospital, 1147 15th St. Garfield Hospital, loth St. and Florida Ave. Georgetozmi University Hospital, 35th and N Sts. National Homeopathic Hospital, 2d and N Sts. Providence Hospital, 2d and D St. N. E. George Wash- ington Hospital, 1333 H St. Washington Eye, Ear and Throat Hosptal, 2517 Pennsylvania Ave. d. Baths, Barber Shops, Etc. The Washington hotels are for the most part liberally equipped with private bath rooms, at an average charge of from $1 to $1.50 in excess of the price of room. Baths. Hot and cold baths may be obtained at all the hotels. No charge is usually made for the use of hotel public baths. Turkish baths may be obtained at the Riggs Lafayette Baths, S. E. cor. 15th and G Sts. Barber Shops. Good barber shops are to be found in all the leading hotels, in the Union. Station, and in many of the principal ofifice build- ings. Many shops employ colored barbers. The Miller Chain of Barber Shops, with principal shop under the National Theatre, employs only white barbers. Ladies' Hairdressiug Parlors are found in the" principal department stores. (See also Hairdressers, p. 32.) e. Steamship and Steamboat Lines A. POTOMAC RIVER LINES Norfolk and Washington Steamboat Co., office at 7th St. Wharves S. W. Daily service between Washington, Alex- andria, Old Point Comfort and Norfolk, Va. [Potomac River Line (Maryland, Delaware and Virginia Ry. Co.), office at 7th St. Wbarves iS. W. Weekly service (Saturdays) between Washington and Baltimore. Mt. Vernon and Marshall Hall Steamboat Co., office at 7th St, Wharves S. W. Daily service (excepting Sundays) between Washington and Mt. Vernon. Washington Colonial Beach Steamboat Co., office at 7th St. Wharves, S. W. To Colonial Beach, Va., July 19 to Labor Day, on Tues., Thurs., Sat. and Sun. Round trip $2.00. Moonlight trips on Potomac, Mbn., Wed. and Fri., 75c incl. ■war-tax. B. FOREIGN STEAMSHIP LINES The following are the local offices or agencies of the principal foreign steamship lines: American Eine, 1208 F St.; Atlantic Transport Co., 1208 F St.; Fnrness-Bermuda Line, Woodward Building, 731 15th St.; Cunard Line, 517 14th St.; Fabre Line, Woodward Build- ing, 731 15th St.; French Line, 1419 New York Ave; Holland- American Line, 1300 G St.; Red Cross Line, Woodward Build- ing, 731 15th St. 44 RIDER'S WASHINGTON f. Newspapers and Periodicals Newspapers and Periodicals. As a publication center, Washington while far from taking a position of leadership usually expected of a Capital City, stands somewhat above the rank to which it is entitled on a population basis (even excluding the large Government plants for engraving, print- ing and book-binding). The total number of newspapers and periodicals published within the District of Columbia is 120, or approximately one-tenth the number published in N'ew York City. They include 6 daily newspapers, 27 weekly periodicals, 5 semi-monthly, 56 monthly, 5 bi-monthly and 21 quarterly magazines. Among these are only two foreign- language periodicals, both monthlies, and both virtually bulletins of the Pan-American Union. The daily papers of general circulation are; the Star (evening paper, independent, 2 cents daily, 5 cents Sunday; an old family paper, established in 1852, circulation about 94,000) ; the Post (morning paper, independent, 2 cents daily, 5 cents Sunday; circulation about 58,000) ; the Times (evening paper, 3 cents daily, 10 cents Sunday; the Hearst paper of Washington; circulation about 54,000) ; and the Herald (morn- ing paper, independent, one cent daily, 5 cents Sunday ; circu- lation about 38,000). Newspapers from Baltimore, Phila- delphia, New York and other cities, may* be bought at principal news-stands along Pennsylvania Ave. Of the other periodicals pviblished in Washington, there is a group connected with the army or navy or both, while another group (such as the Mining Congress Journal, the Journal of the Association of Official Agricultural Chemists, etc.), are instances of a growing tendency of commercial associations of country-wide scope, to retain their financial headquarters in New York, but issue their official organ in the National Capital. Among other periodicals which find their natural place of publica- tion in Washington, should be mentioned: The Federal Employe, the Reclassificationistj and various other periodicals concerned with the interests of the (iovernment Civil Service; the American Federationist. and other labor magazines; the weekly R. F. D. News, and four other periodicals for employees of the postal service; the Nation's Business (monthly), published by the U. S. Chamber of (Commerce. Washington is also the home of the National Geographic Magazine, justly known as one of the best illustrated of American periodicals. It should be noted in conclusion that there is a notable and perhaps rather curious absence here at the Capital of periodicals of any sort with strong political tendencies. XIII. PLANNING A WASHINGTON STAY a. Distribution of Time Washington is exceptional among the great world Capi- tals in the ease and rapidity with which its principal sights PLANNING A WAS'HIiNGTON STAY z|5 may be seen. Thousands of excursionists find their way annu- ally to the Federal City, make a hasty tour of its monuments in one of the many sight-seeing cars, are rushed through the Capitol, the Corcoran Art Gallery and such of the other pub- lic buildings as chance to be open to visitors, and take away with them a few indelible memories and the fallacious belief that they have toured the city with commendable thorough- ness. In point of fact such persons have hardly made a beginning. To learn to know Washington, even in a super- ficial degree, requires from a month to six weeks. The Capi- tol, the White House, the various Department Buildings so obtrude themselves upon the visitor's attention that he readily overlooks the host of other attractions, the many beautiful churches, the wealth of public and semi-public libraries, the various seats of higher education, the countless historic land- marks on every street and avenue. Among the less known attractions which the visitor cannot afford to miss (and some of which are barely mentioned in the cheap popular hand- books of the city) are the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, the Franciscan Monastery, the Catholic University, the Scot- tish Rite Temple and historic Fort Stevens. Another reason why Washington cannot be thoroughly visited in a few days is because of the many restrictions re- garding opening and closing hours, in consequence of which sight-seeing is largely limited to week days betwen 9 a. m. and 4.30 p. m. No public building in Washington is open evenings, with the sole exceptions of the Library of Con- gress, and the Capitol when Congress remains in session. No public building is open at any hour, on Sundays, with the exception of the Library of Congress, the New Museum and the Corcoran Art Gallery (which may be visited in the afternoon), and on rare occasions the Capitol, in order to accommodate some large visiting delegation. Even the Washington cemeteries, with few exceptions, have a rule forbidding the admission of visitors on Sunday but this rule is not strictly enforced. On the other hand the Washington churches, aside from the Protestant Episcopal and Roman Catholic denominations, can be seen in the daytime only at the hour of the Sunday morning service. Notwithstanding its reputation as a "City of magnificent distances," Washington, thanks to its central position in the original square of the District, exacts a minimum loss of time in urban travel. Aside from the suburban excursions into Maryland and Virginia, practically every point of in- terest to the average tourist can readily be reached by trolley 46 RIDER'S WASHINGTON within less than half an hour. Consequently, it is not neces- sary for the visitor with a week or more at his command to force himself to finish the sights of one neighborhood ex- haustively before moving on to the next. It would be, for instance, a source of great weariness to spend an entire day on the Mall, toiling successively through the Botanical Gar- dens, the Aquarium, the Army Medical Museum, the old and new National Museums and the Smithsonian Institute. A far wiser plan, and the one adopted so far as practicable in the following two-weeks' itinerary, is to spend one half of each day in in-door sight-seeing, and the other half in some out-door ramble, often at the opposite extremity of the city. Owing to the capricious nature of the Washington cli- mate, the visitor is w"arned not to assume that a day of sun- shine promises a spell of good weather. Consequently, the first pleasant days should be seized upon for the out-of-town excursions. It is a mistake, however, to visit Mount Vernon on Saturday, when (especially if the weather is good) the throngs of tourists are apt to make a leisurely inspection of the old Mansion almost impossible. Georgetown can, if necessary, be seen in a single visit. Inasmuch, however, as several impoirtant suburban points must be reached through Georgetown, it will be found less wearisome to inspect the old town in two or three successive visits (see below, 8th and nth Days). b. A Fourteen Days' Itinerary The following suggested sight-seeing itinerary, which is planned for a stay of two weeks, is designed to aid the visitor in covering the principal points of interest with a minimum loss of time. The order in which these fourteen trips are taken may be altered to suit the convenience or pref- erence of the individual visitor; but he should carefully study the days and hours when the various museums and public buildings are open ; also in a few cases the free and pay days. He should also familiarize himself with the routes of the various trolley lines (p. lo) ; for the Washington trolley cars zig-zag back and forth, turning corner after cor- ner with an unexpectedness quite bewildering to a stranger. It should be noted also that the trips marked 5th and 12th Days in the present scheme, are the only ones which can be satisfactorily taken on Sunday. 1st Day. Preliminary Ramble down Pennsylvania Ave., com- bined with a visit to the Capitol (p. 50), including Ascent of Dome, the House Office Building (p. 403), the Old Capitol A FOURTEEN DAYS' ITINERARY 47 Building (p. 364), the Senate Office Building (p. 365), the Plaza and Columbus Monument, the Union Station (p. 358) and new City Post Office (p. 357) • 2d Day. Morning: Lafayette Square (p. 184), the President's' Grounds and the PF/itV^ House (p. iii), the Treasury Building (p. 122), the ^'fff^^, W^ar awtf Navy Build- ing (p. 126), the Octagon House tp- 209). Afternoon: the Corcoran Art Gallery (p. 171)- 3d Day. Morning: Pennsylvania Ave. from the Peace Monument to the Treasury Building, incUiding Central Mar- ket (p. loi). Post Office Department Building (p. 104). Municipal Building (p. 108), and t\\Q Sherman Statue (p. 125). Afternoon: American Red Cross Building (p. 154), Memo- rial Continental Building (p. 155), Pan-American Building (p. 162), A^ezv Navy Building (p. 346). 4th Day. Residential Section, Morning: St. John's Church (p. 195), "Avenue of the Presidents" (p. 195) » ex- cursion E. and W. on K St. (p. 237), taking in McPher- son Sq. (p. 220), and Farragut Sq. (p. 222); then con- tinuing N. on i6th St., passing National Geographic Society (p. 199), Scott Circle (p. 200), Foundry Church (p. 202), Church of the New Jerusalem (p. 203), Scottish Rite Temple (p. 204), and Meridian Park, with new Joan of Arc and Dante Statues. At Harvard St. take Mount Pleasant trolley S., via Columbia Road and Connecticut Ave., to Dupont Circle; thence walk S. E. on Massachu- setts Ave., passing (again) Scott Circle, Thomas Circle (p. 228) and Lutheran Memorial Chwrch (p. 221), then S. on 14th St., passing All Souls' Church (p. 232), Frank- lin Sq. (p. 232) and Nezv York Ave. Presbyterian Church (p. 231). Afternoon: Excursion through Shopping Dis- trict (p. 141), passing Church of the Epiphany (p. 150), St. Patrick's Church (p. 147), Ford^s Theatre (p. 145) » the Lincoln Museum (p. 145), Public Land Office (p. 144) ■and Patent Office (p. 142). A visit to the Lincoln Museum can be made any evening. 5th Day. Morning: Arlington Cemetery and Fort Myer (p. 504). Afternoon: Nevi) National Museum, first visit (p. 260). 6th Day. Morning: Congressional Library, first visit (p. 369). Afternoon: Washington Southeast (p. J.Q3), including St. Peter's R. C. Church (p. 411), Old Christ 48 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Church (p. 406), Marine Barracks (p. 406), Navy Yard (p. 407), and Congressional Cemetery (p. 408). 7th Day. Morning: Mount Vernon (p. 487)- After- noon: Alexandria (p. 512) including Christ Church (p. 5M)' Carlylc House (p. 519), Masonic Lodge (p. 517) and Marshall House (p. 521). 8th Day. Morning: Georgetown, first visit, (p. 462), including Georgetoivn Heights (p. 476), Oak Hill Cemetery (p- 479), Tudor Msansion (p. 476), Bodisco House (p. 47o), Convent of the Visitaiion (p. 473) and Volta Bureau (p. 475)- Afternoon: Cathedral of St. P>etcr and St. Paul (p. 455) and American University (p. 443). 9th Day. Morning: Old National Museum (p. 322). Afternoon: Catholic University (p. 416) and Franciscan Momstery (p. 423)- loth Day. Morning: National Museum, second visit. Afternoon: Smithsonian Institution (p. 255), Agricultural Department (p. 252), includiing Greenhouses, JVashington Monument (p. 342), Sylvan Theatre (p. 348), Paul Jones Monument (p. 352) and Lincoln Memorial (p. 353)- nth Day. Morning: Army Medical Museum (p. 248), Aquarium (p. 245). Botanic Gardens (p. 241), Grant Memorial (p. 242). Afternoon: Soldiers' Home (p. 432), Rock Creek Church and Cemetery (p. 436), Brightwood (p. 438) and Fort Stevens (p. 438). I2th Day. Morning: Ramble through the Old Residen- tial Section (p. 131), C St. to Judiciary Sq.. passing Trinity P. E. Church (p. 132), Metropolitan M. E. Church (p. 134), First Presbyterian Church (p. 136), City Hall (p. 137), D'iistrict Court^ of Appeals (p. 138)- and Pension Office (p. 139). Afternoon: National Zoological Park (p. 444). 13th Day. Morning: Georgetozvn, second visit, Wash- ington Headquarters (p. 465), former residences of Jef- ferson (p. 465), Francis Scott Key (p. 465) and Mrs. E. D. E. N. Southworth (p. 466), Georgetozmi University (p. 467). Afternoon: Great Falls of the Potomac (p. 484). 14th Day. Morning, li'ashington Southivesf (p. 240). Afternoon: Excursion to Glen Echo Park and Cabin John Bridge (p. 483). ^ A FIVE DAYS' ITINERARY 49 c. A Five Days' Itinerary 1st Day. Capitol (p. 50), Pcnnsyhmiia Ave. (p. 96), White House and Vicinity (p. iii), Corcoran Art Gallery (p. 171), American Red Cross (p. 154), Continental Memorial Hall (p. 155) and Pan-American Building (p. 162). 2d Da3^ The Mall (p. 240), Grant Memorial (p. 242), Botanic Gardens (p. 241), Aquarium (p. 245), Army Medical Museum (p. 248), Old National Museum, Smithsonian Institution (p. 255), Nczu National Museum (p. 260), Agricultural Department (p. 252) and Washington Monu- ment (p. 342). 3d Day. Mount Vernon (p. 487), Alexandria (p. 512), and Arlington (p. 504). 4th Day. Morning: Excursion from Judiciary Sq. through Shopping District (p. 141) to Lafayette Sq. and St. John's Church (p. 195). Afternoon: Residential Sec- tion, Sixteenth St. N. to Harvard St. ; National Zoological Park (p. 444)- 5th Day. Morning: Franciscan Monastery (p. 423), Catholic University (p. 416), Soldiers' Home (p. 432), Rock Creek Church and Cemetery (p. 436). Afternoon: Georgetown (p. 462), Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul (P- 455). -r-s" pLC^UU?. WASHINGTON NORTHWEST— THE CENTRAL SECTION {From the Capitol to the White House) I. The National Capitol a. History **The National Capitol (PI. Ill— F5) is situated, in conformity with Major L'Enfant's original plan exactly in the center of Washington, on the verge of the bluft which rises abruptly to a height of 89 ft. above the mean tidal level of the Potomac River. The building is accurately located in accordance with the cardinal points of the compass, and fronts towards the east, because the Commissioners of the projected Federal city erroneously assumed that the city's chief growth would be eastward. The Capitol is open to visitors daily, Sundays and holi- days excepted, from 9 a. m. to 4.30 p. m, ; also at night when the Senate or House or both are in Session, and this is denoted by a light burning just 'below the statue of Freedom. The Capitol is reached most directly by the Connecticut Ave. trolley line (cars marked "Mount Pleasant"). Also by Georgetown-Lincoln Park line; Eleventh St. line (both passing through E. First St.) ; and Pennsylvania Ave. line (cars marked either "Navy Yard" or "17th and Pennsylvania Ave. S. E.") to 1st and B Sts. S. E. _ All these lines bring the visitor near to the eastern or main entrance to the Capitol, All the Pennsylvania Ave. cars pass the western entrance to the Capitol grounds, behind the Peace Monument. History. On March I4t5h. 1792, the Commissioners appointed by Washington advertised for competitive plans for the Capitol and for the "President's House." to be submitted not later than July 15th following, offering in each instance $500.00 and a building lot to the successful competitor. The plans of James Hoban, a young Irishman who had settled in Charleston, S. C, were promptly accepted for the White House (p. iii). The Capitol proved to be a more troublesome problem. The number of rival plans submitted is not recorded ; but no less than 16 competitors, professional and amateur, are mentioned by name in docu- THE CAPITOL 51 ments of the period, and nearly as many plans, some of them quite futile, have been preserved in the Maryland His- torical Society, and are reproduced in Mr. Glenn Brown's authoritative History of the Capitol. The only plans show- ing promise were by Stephen L. Hallet, said to have been a student under the famous architect Nash. Accordingly he was requested by the Commissioners to submit new designs. Meanwhile, although the time limit had expired, Dr. William Thornton, a native of the Island of Tortola, West Indies, received permission to submit plans. The simple dignity of these designs greatly pleased Washington ; and on March 14th, 1793, the Commissioners notified Hallet that Thornton's plans had been accepted, and the award of $500.00 and a building lot granted him ; but that in consideration of Hallet's extra labor, he should receive an equivalent amount. As Dr. Thornton was admittedly an amateur, Hallet was further employed to examine the plans and make estimates ; and he promptly, reported adversely on the three important points of practicability, time and expense. Washington re- luctantly requested Thornton to revise his plans to meet these objections. The erection of the Capitol from Thorn- ton's modified plans began in August, 1793, with Hoban as supervising architect; but since his time was fully occupied with the White House, the Commissioners made the mistake of appointing Hallet as his assistant. The latter had not yet relinquished his ambition to share in designing the Capitol, and not only continued to offer substitute plans and sugges- tions, but, in spite of frequent rebukes, deliberately disre- garded Thornton's plans in several essential points, in con- sequence of which he was dismissed in 1794- It was then found necessary to tear down part of the work, namely : the foundations of the Rotunda, which Hallet had chosen to make square instead of circular. These facts need to be emphasized, since Hallet* has popularly received a large share of the credit, where he deserved little or none. *See, however, monograph Stephen Hallet and his designs for the National Capitol 1791-1794 in Journal of the American Institute of Architects for July, Aug., Sept. and October, 1916, by Wells Bennett — University of Michigan. After Hallet's dismissal he was succeeded by George Hod field, an Englishman recommended by Benjamin West. When Hadfield, in his turn, quarreled with the Commission- ers and resigned, the work was pushed rapidly under the per- sonal direction of Thornton as one of the Commissioner?; 52 RIDER'S WASHINGTON of Federal Buildings, assisted by Hoban as superintendent. But before the walls of either Capitol or White House had reached the roof-line, the Commissioners, in 1796, found themselves obliged to ask Congress for an approria- tion of money. It was finally through the aid of the state of Maryland that sufficient funds were available for pushing the work; and in the summer of 1800 the W. wing of the Capitol was ready for occupancy by the Senate. The walls of the South Wing had been carried to a height of 20 ft, and roofed over temporarily for the House. It was popularly known as "The Oven," and here the House rnet until 1804, when the roof was removed and the building completed by Benjamin H. Latrohe, who had succeeded Hoban in 1803. Meanwhile the House sat in the room then used for the Library of Congress, on the W. side of the N. wing. The House Wing was finished in 181 1, and the Hall was regarded as a very beautiful structure. The central build- ing had not yet been begun, and the two Halls were con- nected by a covered wooden passageway. On the 24th of August. 1814, the British burned the interior of both Wings. Fortunately the outer walls remained uninjured. Latrobe was appointed by Congress to super- intend the work of reconstruction. This architect has left a highly interesting account of the condition in which he found the building: "The appearance of the ruins," he says, "was perfectly terrifying." He describes the stone columns, supporting the halls, as having been so badly eaten away by fire that in many of them only a few inches of contact re- mained. Many important parts, however, were quite unin- jured; among them the entrance to the hall of the House, the corn capitals of the Senate vestibule and the vaults of the Senate Chamber. Some of the Committee rooms of the old House wing were not even soiled. Owing to friction with his superiors Latrobe _ resigned in November, 1817. He may be accredited with having made the original design for the reconstruction of the South Wing or old hall of Representatives, and the old Senate Chamber; he also modified the west front of the central building and the eastern portico. Latrobe was succeeded by Oiarles Bulfinch in Januar}', 1818. The latter's only original contributions were the de- signs for the western central portico, the earth terraces and landscape work. His modifications were designed to correct the original mistake made in placing the building too far THE CAPITOL 53 west, so as to overhang the brow of Capitol Hill, exposing an unsightly sub-basement story. This he concealed with a semi-circular glacis and sloping terraces. On March 24th, the foundation of the central building was laid ; and the whole edifice completed in 1825, essentially in accordance with Thornton's original plans. For a quarter-century the Capitol remained unchanged. In 1850, however, urgent need of additional space was recognized ; and on September 30th an Act was passed author- izing extensions to be built, subject to the approval of the President. From the designs submitted, Mr. Fillmore se- lected those of Thomas U. Walter, who was accordingly placed in charge the following June, 1851. The cornerstone of the proposed additions, consisting of the present Senate and House Wings, was laid by the President on July 4th, of that year. An eloquent oration was delivered by Daniel Webster. By the following January, the foundations of both wings were laid and the basement story finished. That same month, the western front of the central building was injured by fire, and the following summer was rebuilt by Walter from new designs. In 1855 the old wooden dome was removed, and contracts placed for the casting of the iron-work required for the new one. The new Senate Chamber was first occu- pied in 1859, and that of the House in 1857. The outbreak of the war in 1861 failed to interrupt the work upon the dome, the exterior of which was completed in 1863, Crawford's bronze statue of Freedom, which sur- mounts it, being placed in position on December 2d. In 1874 the veteran landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted (1822-1903) was appointed to superintend the im- provements of the Capitol grounds. To him are due mainly the present grading of the grounds; the ornamental grotto near the N. W. corner; the balustrades and bronze lanterns; the spacious plaza opposite the east fagade, with its two large rectangular fountain basins of pink Tennessee granite; and lastly the profusion of ornamental trees and shrubs (229 varieties) gathered from all parts of the world, including, in addition to a majority of the separate states, China, Japan, Syria, the Himalayas and Siberia. The marble terraces along the north, west and south fronts were added during 1882-91. They were designed and supervised by Edward Clark. b. The Building and Its Approaches It is hard to decide which of the two approaches has the advantage in regard to one's first impression of the THE CAPITOL 55 Capitol. But since the west approach necessitates the ascent of nearly one hundred steps, while the east involves less walking and no climbing, the great majority choose the latter. Eastern Approach. The East Facade fronts upon a spacious plaza, where once in four years, on the 4th of March, many thousands gather to witness the Inaugural ceremony, which takes place upon a special temporary plat- form erected before the central portico. Opposite, on E. side of plaza three driveways run eastward, the outer ones . curving to N. and S. respectively, while the central one is prolonged beyond the Capitol Grounds by East Capitol St. To the R., on S. E. cor. of First St. are the granite walls and gilded dome of the Library of Congress (p. 369), and further to the S. is the glistening white marble House Office Building (p. 403). O'ccupying the same relative position on the N. is the Senate Office Building, while beyond and still further to the L. are seen in the distance the Columbus Monument, the Union Station (p. 358) and the new City Post Office', (p. 357)- Opposite the Capitol and flanking the three driveways are six lamp piers, 13 ft. high, consisting of blue-stone base and red sand- stone band, surmounted by blue-stone and Passamaquaddy red granite, inalternate coures, supporting bronze lamps 12 ft. high (designed by Thomas Wisedell, of New York). Behind the lamps, to R and L. of central driveway, are two low rectangular fountain basins, also of Passamaquaddy granite and containing lofty inner basins of bronze, from whose margins the water drips in a thin veil. Following the outer curves of the side driveways, and extending I to N. and S. respectively, are two continuous stone -eats, consisting of a blue-stone plinth and base, Seneca stone back and blue-stone coping. Each of these quadrants is divided into eight spaces by stone piers ! surmounted by bronze lamp posts 12 ft. high. Western Approach. Facing the western boundary of the I Capitol grounds are seen the Botanical Gardens (p. 162), I bounded on N. and S. respectively by the converging lines of , Pennsylvania and Maryland Aves. The lines of these Ave- : nues are continued within the grounds by broad promenades overarched with double rows of Oriental Plane trees , (Platanus orientalis), and leading steadily upward (with I occasional short flights of steps) to the marble terraces of j the western entrance (erected 1882-91). The .visitor approaching from this side will note on L., near N. W. cor. of grounds, a picturesque, ivy-covered rest-hovrse of red brick, j whose walls form a truncated equiangular triangle. Xhe interior con- I tains seats and a circular stone basin with fountain. Above the seats I are latticed openings, the one on E. giving a view of an ornamental grotto, in which a small stream trickles among the rocks. I In the grounds W. of the Capitol Building are two circular stone !■ towers with openings under ground for the air ducts forming part of i the ventilating system by which the Senate Chamber and Hall of ' Representatives are supplied with fresh air. 56 RIDER'S WASHINGTON From the lower terrace, which extends approximately 280 ft. N. and S., ascend, on R. and L., two imposing stair- ways of 74 steps, broken by landings into the following divi- sions : 16+ 16+2 1 4-21. Between these stairways the sustain- ing wall of the upper terrace forms a semi-circle, contain- ing nine arched niches. In the centre of this semi-circle is a fountain, the lower basin of which measures forty feet. The octagonal upper basin is monolithic, of white marble, borne on eight short columns of red granite and surmounted by a tassa of pink marble. Directly in front, in the centre of the terrace, stands the impressive seated statue, in bronze, of Chief Justice John Alarshall (i7=;5-i833), heroic size, by IV. W. Story (1819-95). This statue, the gift of members of the United States Bar, was erected in 1884 at a cost of $40,000. On the lofty marble pedestal are two interesting bas- reliefs: I. on South side, "Victory leads young America to swear Fidelity at the Altar of the Union" (^the closely planted shrubbery makes it difficult to read the above inscription). The central figures are all female. Note, on L., a submissive Indian; and on R. a bas-relief reproduction of the seated statue of Justice Marshall. 2. on North side : "Minerva dictating tMe Constitution to young America." On L., behind America, are the mothers and daughters of the country ; on R. are the American law- makers (among whom again occur the features of Justice Marshall). Ascending the stairway we reach the second terrace forming a broad esplanade separated from the basement of the building by a sort of trench or moat, affording light and air to the sub-basement. Underneath this terrace are a series of apartments now utilized as offices, but which, during the early davs of the Civil War, were converted into bakeries, which turned out daily 16,000 loaves for the use of the army. From this terrace the visitor may enter directly, through central door, the basement floor of the Capitol, from which stairs lead to the western door of the Rotunda. It is, however, more advisable to follow the terrace, making a half circuit of the building, around to the main eastern por- tico, thus having an opportunity to study the architectural features of the Capitol's exterior. The Bronze Doors for Western Central entrance, designed by Louis Amateis, are now on exhibition at the New National !Museum (p. 263). \l_JL^//LJLA%^J^m /I v-C ""J Q. -o o-ii. .e--'-^-' I r- — ill j I I lis:! •iS I I HIS I I s i •» J 3 r THE CAPITOL 57 The Capitol building as it stands to-day, including the old central portion as originally conceived by Thornton, with the modern Dome and Northern and Southern extensions designed by Walter, is in the main an adaptation of the Corinthian order of architeoture, and covers an area of 153,112 sq. ft., or 652 sq. ft. over 31^ acres. The entire length is 751 ft. 4 in. The greatest dimension from E. to W. is 350 ft. The wings, including porticoes and steps, have a breadth (E. to W.) of 239 ft., or including porticoes and steps 324 ft. Between the original building and each extension is a connecting corridor 44 ft. long and 56 ft. deep. Materials : The old central building is of Aquia Creek, Va. sandstone, painted white; the twenty-four monolithic columns of the eastern Central Portico are of Maryland sandstone; the N. and S. extensions and connecting corridors are of Dolomite marble, almost white, from Lee, Mass. (1851-65) ; the columns of the g;stension porticoes are mon- oliths of Dolomite marble from Cockeysville, Md. The visitor, especiall}^ if approaching from the W., should note the fidelity with which the original details of construc- ' tion have been duplicated, course by course, in the N. and i S. extensions. Both the old central portions and the wings I consist of a rustic basement, supporting an ordinance of j Corinthian pilasters, which rise throughout the height of two j stories. Upon these pilasters rest an entablature and frieze, I surmounted by a balustrade. From the central portion rises . with deceptive lightness and grace the ponderous mass of Walter's iron Dome, probably the most universally familiar • object in all American architecture. It springs from a peri- I style of 36 fluted Corinthian columns, and rises to a height I of 287 ft. 5 in. above the base line of the E. front. Its I height from the roof balustrade is 217 ft. 11 in., and diameter j at the base is 135 ft. 5 in. It is surmounted by a lantern 50 I ft. in height which sustains the bronze statue of Freedom, i modeled by Crawford, which measures 19 ft. 6 in. in height, and weighs 12,985 pounds. I The old wooden dome with its copper sheathing was taken down I in 1856, and the present structure of cast-iron was completed in 1865. The total weight of iron used in the dome is 8,909.200 pounds. The j total weight about the cellar floor including the sustaining walls, is I computed at 57,292,253 lbs., giving a pressure of only 13,071 lbs. per \ sq. ft. That of St. Peter's, Rome, is 33,330 lbs. per sq. ft.; St. Paul's, London, 39,450 lbs.; and St. Genevieve, Paris, 60.000 lbs. The Eastern, or Main Facade has three stately porticoes, supported on Corinthian columns, and surmounted by pedi- ments containing allegorical groups. The Mcin Central, or 58 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Rotunda Portico, is i6o ft. wide, with 24 columns sustaining an 80-ft. pediment, with sculptures representing the Genius of America, executed by Luigi Persico, after a design by John Quincy Adams (then Secretary of State). The central figure. Armed America, rests her shield, bearing the letters U. S. A. upon an altar inscribed with the date, July 4, 1776. She is listening to Hope, at the same time pointing to Justice who holds the Constitution, inscribed with the date of its adoption, Sept. 17, 1787. The porticoes of the Wings have 22 columns each. The Pediment of the Senate Portico, executed by Thomas Crazi'ford, depicts American Development and the Decadence of the Indian Race. Here also America is the central figure, bestowing honor upon General Washington. On R. are the Elements of Strength on which this country relies: Soldier. Merchant, Schoolmaster, Youth and Mechanic, ending with Wheat Sheaf and Anchor, symbols of property and stability. On L. are the Forerunners of Civilization: Pioneer, Hunter, Indian Warrior and Indian Mother and Child mourning be- side a grave. Crawford received $17,000 for his models. The figures Mere all chiseled on the Capitol Grounds by skilled Italian workmen, from Lee, Mass., marble, at a cost of. $26,000. The Bronze Doors of the Senate Portico are described on p. 75- \The House Wing Pediment. After remaining vacant for more than four score years, this pediment was at last filled in 1916 by a group executed j>3' Paul W. Bartlett. In the centre is an allegorical presentment of "Peace Protecting Genius."' Peace, a commanding female figure with breast- plate and coat of mail almost hidden by her mantle, stands with left arm resting on buckler which is supported by the altar at her side. Her right arm is protectively extended over the wnnged figure of youthful Genius who holds the torch of Immortality. The composition is completed by two other groups respectively symbolizing the two fundamental powers of labor and sources of wealth : On E., Agriculture ; on W., Industry. "The most modest of our farmers and laborers can find in these groups the symbol of his own self and of his endeavors. . . . He will see that his helpmate, his children, his cattle, and the harvest from his fields have been exalted and carved in marble forms. The printer, the ironworker, the founder can do the same. . . . The toiling factory girl will observe that she has not been forgotten, and those who are devoted to the sea can discover a group which will remind them of the joys of their vocation. "A wave terminates the sculpture at either end of the pediment, and is meant to indicate that all this humanity, all its power and THE CAPITOL 59 energy, are comprised between the shores of the two oceans — -the Atlantic and Pacific." From Speech by Paul IV. Bartlett at Unveiling Exercises, Aug. 2, 191 6. The Bronze Doors of the House Portico are described on p. 88. Since the Tour of the Capitol here given is planned to start from the Rotunda, the visitor should enter through the Main Central Portico. On R. and L. of Grand Central Stairway are two colossal marble groups. That on S. side represents The Discovery of America, by Limgi Persico, and consists of two figures, Columbus and an Indian girl, the former clad in armor modeled from a suit preserved in Genoa, and believed to have been worn hy Columbus, The group on N. side is The Rescue, by Horatio Greenough, and depicts a deadly conflict between an Indian and a Pioneer. The Gov- ernment paid $24,000 ap/iece for these groups. In the center of the Portico are — *The Rogers Bronze Doors. These doors, completed in 1861, were modeled in Rome by Randolph Rogers, in 1858, the sculptor receiving $8000; and cast in Munich by F. von Muller, at a cost of $17,000. After some controversy regard- ing their location, they were first erected in the passageway , connecting the Old Hall of Representatives (Statuary Hall) i with the House Wing. They proved, however, a serious ob- 1 struction in a corridor which at best was none too wide ; 1 and in 1870 the House voted to have them transferred to their present position. The two leaves are each 17 ft. high and 4^ I ft. wide, and are surmounted by a semi-circular transom panel. The whole is enclosed by a richly ornamented casing, j semi-circular at the top, and projecting about a foot in front of the leaves. The key of the casing arch bears a bust of ' Columbus. I At top and bottom of the two sides of casing* are four statuettes representing: (S. upper cor.) Asia, with oriental head-gear; (N. upper ■ cor.) Africa, with necklace of claws and teeth; (S. lower cor.) Europe, with diadem; (N. lower cor.) America, with liberty cap and shield. There are nine panels, four on each leaf of the door, and one ( in the transom._ Between these panels are ten heads, five on each leaf, "representing historians who have written on his (Columbus') , voyages, from his own time down to the present day, ending with j Irving and Prescott." The correspiondence between Rogers and I Thomas U. Walter, then architect of the Capitol, sheds no further \ light regarding these heads; but two are evidently women, and two I others are Indians. On R. and L. of the eight door-panels are 16 statuettes in niches, representing contemporaries of Columbus, who figured prominently in I his life. The names are inscribed beneath them: { A. (L. Margin of S. Door, from bottom upward) : i. (facing , 1st Historic Panel) Juan Perez, Prior of the Convent of La Rabida. 6o RIDER'S WASHINGTON through whose influence Columbus obtained an audience with Queen Isabella; 2. Cortez, Conqueror of Mexico; 3. Don Alonzo de Ojeda, an unloyal follower of Columbus; 4. Amerigo Vespucci; B. (R. Margin of S. Door, from top downward); 5. Pedro Gonzales de Mendoza, Arch- bishop of Toledo; 6. Queen Isabella; 7. Doiia Beatriz de Bobadilla (there being no extant likeness of the lady, the sculptor modeled her features after his wife); 8. Henry VII. of England; C. (L. Margin of N. Door, from bottom upward); 9. John II. of Portugal; 10. Charles VIII. of France; 11. Ferdinand, King of Spain (it should be noted that the doors, when closed, bring the king and queen side by side) ; 12. Pope Alexander VI.; D. (R. Margin of N. Door): 13. Francisco Pizarro, Conqueror of Peru; 14. Balboa, Discoverer of the Pacific; 15. Bartholomew Columbus, brother of the Discoverer (there being no extant portrait, the sculptor reproduced his own features); 16. Martin Alonzo Pinzon, Captain of the Pinta, and first to sight the land of the New World. Panels: a. L. door (from bottom up): i. Columbus expounding his project to the Council of Salamanca; 2. Columbus leaving the friendly Convent of La Rabida to seek an attdience with Queen Isa- bella; 3. Columbus laying his plan before the King and Queen of Spain; 4. Columbus about to sail, bidding farewell to his son; 5. Tran- som panel: The landing at the Island of San Salvador. b. R. door (from top downward) ; 6. First intercourse between the Indians and the Spaniards; 7. The triumphal entry into Barcelona; 8. Columbus arrested on false charges, and sent back to Spain in chains; 9. The death of Columbus at Valladolid. Above the bronze door is a bas-relief by Antonio CapeUano consisting of a portrait bust of Washington, with two winged female figures, each extending a laurel leaf, and symbolizing: i. (N. side) Fame, with trumpet; 2. (S. side) Peace, with palm of Victory; signed A. CapeUano fecit 1827. To R. and L. of entrance are Fersico's two marble statues, heroic size, symbolizing War and Peace: (on N.) Mars in Roman armor, with shield and spear; (on S.) Ceres, with olive branch and fruits. c. The Rotunda and Dome Passing through the Rogers doorway, we enter at once the **Rotunda, an immense circular chamber situated im- mediately beneath the Dome, and occupying the exact center of the Capitol. It measures aproximately 96 ft. in diameter, while the height from the floor to the frescoed canopy is 180 ft. 3 in. The wall is broken by four doorways, situated at the four cardinal points, and divided into a series of eight spacious panels by an ordinance of 12 fluted pilasters, 30 ft. in height, supporting an entablature and cornice of 14 ft. It was the intention of the architect, Mr. Walter (p. 53), that the q ft. panel encircling the Dome, immediately above the cornice, should be occupied by a sculptured frieze in high relief, the subject to be the History of America. This plan was subsequently discarded in favor of a chiaroscuro fresco by Constantino Bnimidi. in imitation of alto-relievo. THE CAPITOL 6i No account^ of the National Capitol would be compJele without a brief biographical note on Constantino Brumidi -(1805-80), who, for a quarter of a century was in charge of the Capitol's nniral decora- tions. He was born in Rome of a (ireek father and Italian motlier; was for a time Captain of the National Guards; and during the Pontificate of Pius IX was commissioned to restore some of Raphael's Lcgge in the Vatican. As Captain of the Guard he once refused to order his Command to fire upon the people, in consequence of which he was arrested and imprisoned without trial for 14 months. There- after the Pope counseled Brumidi to leave Italy, doubting his own power to protect him from Cardinal Anlonelb". In a written statement, still extant, Brumidi explains that it was "the French occupation of Rome in 1849, for the suppression of Republican Institutions, that de- termined him to emmigrate to America where a great Republic was al- ready estaljiished." Here he became a naturalized citizen, and in 1855 executed the first of his mural decorations in what was then the Com- mittee Room on Agriculture (p. ). Henceforward, for the rest of his life, he carried out his idea that, "the solid construction of this National building required a superior style of decoration in real fresco, like the Palaces of Augustus and Nero, the Baths of Titus and Liyia." Early in 1880, while engaged on his final work, the His- toric Frieze, Brumiili narrowly escaped a tragic accident. He was alone on his platform when the bench, on which he sat, was pushed too far backward and fell. Brumidi was left clinging to the rungs of a ladder until an attendant, who happened to» Fee the accident from an upper balcony, hurried to his rescue. His death shortly afterwards is attributed to this shock at his advanced age. The *Frieze, as originally planned by Brumidi, was to • consist of 16 historic panels, of which he lived to finish the first seven, leaving at his death the designs for eight others, drawn on a reduced scale. Filippo Costaf/gini (1837-1907), who continued the frieze from Brumidi's designs, purposely crowded them in order to leave room, not for one panel, but itwo of his own design. The 15 completed panels are as follows : a. Executed by Brumidi: i. The Landing of Columbus, |I492: 2. Cortez entering the Hall of the Montezumas, 1521 ; 3. Pizarro's Conquest of Peru, 1533; 4. The Burial of de jSoto, 1541 ; 5. Pocahontas saving the Life of Captain John Smith, 1606; 6. The Landing of the Pilgrims, 1620; 7. Penn's Peace Treaty with the Indians, 1682. It was while painting |this panel that Brumidi met with the accident which hastened liis death. The exact point where he stopped, — namely: the group of three Indians, — may readily be distinguished by the spectator, through the pronounced change in the tone of the background. b. Executed by Costaggini: 8. Scene in Plymouth Col- ny, 1620; 9. Oglethorpe and the Indians. 1732; 10. The attle of Lexington. 1775; 11. The Declaration of Inde- pendence, 1776; 12. The Surrender of Cornwallis, 1781 ; 13. The Death of Tecumseh, 1813; 14. General Scott's Entry into i 62 RIDER'S WASHINGTON the City of Mexico, 1847; 15. The Discovery of Gold in California, 1848. For his share in the frieze, which occupied him during the years 1869-80, Brumidi received approximately $25,000. Costaggini's work (1880-89), including the enlarged cartoons from Brumidi's designs, cost the government $10,084. It is not known what subject, if any, Brumidi had in mind for his final panel. The two designs offered by Costaggini were: _i. The Junction, May, 1869, of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads at Promontory Point, Utah, with Leland Stanford driving in the Golden Spikes which completed the iron bond between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans; 2. The Opening of the World's Fair at Chicago, 1893, with President Cleveland pressing the electric button, which set the wheels in motion. These designs were the subject of a vigorous debate in the Senate, in the course of which strong objection was made to an historical frieze "which omits George Washington and Abraham Lincoln and presents Mr. Cleveland, when we consider the respective positions of Mr. Lincoln and Mr. Cleveland during the Great War of the Rebellion." The work has remained at a standstill, and Brumidi's disfiguring platform and ladders liave been removed. Above the Frieze rises a loftly colonnade containing the lowest of the inner galleries. Between the columns, and completely encircling the gallery, are a series of spacious windows, the only means of lighting the Rotunda from with- out. From this colonnade springs the Dome, which contracts to a space of 50 ft., revealing another and lighter colonnade supporting the second gallery, just beneath the 65 ft. canopy which closes in the Dome at the base of the lantern. This canopy is occupied by Brumidi's great fresco : The Apotheosis of Washington, which will be described later in connection with the Ascent of the Dome (p. 64). Aside from Brumidi's frescoes, the only art works in the Rotunda are a few statues, some sculptures in high-relief and eight *Historic Paintings (18x12 ft.), four belonging to the Early Historical and four to the Revolutionary Period. The latter four, the work of Col. John Trunrbull (1756-1843) are of special interest, because of the number of authentic portraits which they contain. The artist, son of Gov. Jonathan Trumbull, of Conn., was for a time aide and military secretary to Washington. After the war, the young officer conceived the ambition to develop his natural artistic gift, "with the hope of thus binding his name to the great events of the Revolution, by becoming the graphic historiographer of them and of his comrades." He studied art in Europe; and while in London, painted John Adams, then Minister to England; and in Paris Thomas Jefferson, Minister to France; also, at Jefferson's house, the French officers whose portraits he would need for the Yorktown picture. Trumbull spent in all thirty years of preparation for these four pictures, which, in 1816, he was commissioned by Congress to paint. He received $8,000 each for them. The other four artists received respectively: Vanderlyn, Chapman and Weir. $10,000 each; Powell, $12,000. A comiilete key to the historical characters hangs below each picture. THE CAPITOL 63 These paintings and sculptures may be seen in the follow- ing order, from R. to L., beginning at the W. of the north door : I. (Over N. doorway) William Penn making a Treaty with Delaware Indians, sandstone panel in high-relief, by N. Gevclot; 2. Washington, bronze bust, by David d'Angers; 3. Washington Resigning his Commission (Annapolis, Dec. 23d, 1783), painting by Trumbull; 4. Abraham Lincoln, mar- ble head, by Gutson Borglum; 5. Surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, painting, by Trumbull; 6. (above, in panel) Head of Sir Walter Raleigh: this and the other three heads to R. and L. of side doors, were the work of Causici and Capellano, executed in 1827; cost, $9,500; 7. Lincoln, marble statue, by Vinnie Ream Hoxie (1847-1914) ; bought by Con- gress for $15,000; 8. (over W. doorway) Pocahontas saving the Life of Captain John Smith, sandstone panel in high-relief, by Antonio Capellano; 9. Ulysses S. Grant, marble statue, by Franklin Simmons; 10. Surrender of General Burgoyne at I Saratoga, Oct. 17, 1777, painting by Trumbull; 11. (above) 'Head of Columbus; 12. Alexander Hamilton, marble statue, by Horatio Stone; 13. Signing the Declaration of Independ- ence, Philadelphia, 1776, painting by Trumbull; 14. (above S. door) Conflict between Daniel Boone and the Indians, sandstone (panel in high-relief, by Enrico Causici; 15. Baptism of Pocahontas, painting by John G. Chapman; 16. Col. Edward D. Baker, of Oregon (b. 181 1; mortally wounded at Ball's Bluff, Oct. 21, 1861), marble statue by Horatio Stone; ly. Discovery of the Mississippi, painting by William H. Powell (1824-79); 18. (above) Head of La Salle; 19. Washington, plaster cast (after marble by Houdon), by William J. Hubard; 20. (above E. door) The Landing of the Pilgrims, sandstone panel in high-relief, by Enrico Causici; 21. Thomas JefTerson, bronze statue, by David d'Angers; 22. Landing of Columbus, painting, by John Vanderlyn (1776-1852) ; 23. (above) Head of Cabot; 24. Lafayette, marble bust by David ^d'Angers; 25. The Embarkation of the Pilgrims, painting by Robert W. Weir (1803-89). ,t_ Some little publicity has been given to so-called "amusing blunders" "in the Rotunda paintings, regarding which the visitor may decide for Ihimself. i. In "Washington Resigning his Commission," the two young Igirls with intertwined arms apparently have between them five hands '(reminiscent of the man with three hands in the famous frescoes in the Spanish Chapel, Florence). It is explained, however, that the fifth hand is that of the girls' father, Chsfrles Carroll of CarroUton. 2. In "The Baptism of Pocahontas," the; seated Indian has on one foot six distinct toes. Chapman's defenders claim that since he was "a draftsman of distinction," this particular Indian must have borne the degenerate stigma of a sixth toe. 3. In "The Landing of Columbus," the latter's val- 64 RIDER'S WASHINGTON iant company bear aloft three flags, each of which is blown in a different direction. Champions of the artist remind us that freakish winds some- times produce queer results. History. The chief historic associations of the Rotunda are in connection with the last honors paid to some of the country's greatest men. Here Lincoln lay in state April 19-21, 1865. Here Thaddeus Stevens lay in state Aug. 13-14, 1868, and was carried hence to be buried, -at his request, '"in a cemetery where black as well as white were admitted." Here Garheld lay in state Sept. 21-23, 1881, the funeral sermon being delivered by the Rev. F. D. Poweres of the V'ermont Ave. Christian Church (p. 221). Vice-President Logan here lay in state Dec. 30th, 1886. The coffin rested upon the same bier that had held' Lincoln^ Garfield, Chase^ Sumner and Stevens. Others whose remains have more recently rested on the historic Lincoln Bier are: William McKinley, Sept. 17, 1901; Pierre C. L'Enfant, April 28, 1909; Admiral George Dewey, Jan, 20, 1917; the Unknown Soldier, Nov. 9-1 1, 1 92 1. The N. door of the Rotunda opens into a small circular colonnade, constituting the second story or balcony of a small basement rotunda open to the roof, and surmounted by a low dome and central skylight. This balcony floor is borne upon a series of massive buttresses and in turn upholds sixteen Corinthian columns upon which rests the dome. Note the capitals of these columns, representing tobacco leaves and blossoms (Francisco lardella, sculptor). In this colonnade, the S. E. door leads to public elevator and stair- way. At the foot of these stairs, just outside the basement entrance, in the arcade, is a *Bronze Tablet, erected in 1895. marking the location of the Corner-stone of the original Capitol, laid Sept. i8th, 1793, and commemorating the Cen- tenary Celebration in 1893. The opposite, or S. W,, door opens upon a winding stair- way by which the *Ascent of the Dome may be made. Open free, week-days from 9 a. m. to 3 :45 p. m. ; closed on Sun- days. These stairs presently open on a short passage and second door, plainly marked "To the Dome." Continuing the ascent the visitor reaches, at the 77th step, a third door opening outside upon a narrow platform, following the curve of the Rotunda wall. Zig-zag steps rising between the Rotunda and the Senate Wing lead to a fourth door, openinji upon the lowest inner gallery encircling the base of the Dome (128 steps from ground floor). This is the best point from which to study the Frieze (p. 61). The Dome rises from the level of this gallery, and con- sists of an inner and outer shell of iron, held together by a multitude of bars and bolts. Here the stairs curve steeply between the two shells, the steps partly overhanging like saw-teeth. At the 184th step, midway up the Dome, the first exterior balcony is reached; at the 240th, the upper inner: THE CAPITOL 65 balcony, directly beneath the great *Canopy Fresco, Brumidi's masterpiece. This fresco, covering an area of 4664 ft. and costing the government $40,000, consists of a central group, The Apothe- osis of Washington, and six, surrounding symbolic groups. It is best studied in detail from this upper gallery. In the center is Washington, enthroned upon a rainbow and surrounded by brilliant clouds. On his right is the God- dess of Liberty; on his left are winged Fame and Victory. Half surrounding them are a semi-circle of female figures with joined hands, representing the original thirteen states. They are arranged geographically beginning on Washington's left: New Hampshire; Massachusetts; Rhode Island; Con- necticut; New York; New Jersey; Pennsylvania; Delaware; Maryland; Virginia; North Carolina; South Carolina and ' Georgia. The leaves, blossoms and other ornaments worn ' by the maidens represent the staple products of the several I states. j The six surrounding groups, from L. to R., beginning i with the lower group on Washington's left, are as follows : j 1st Group. War: Freedom with drawn sword aided by 1 an eagle, has vanquished Tyranny and Oppression, who are i fleeing, accompanied by Anger, Revenge and Discord. ' 2d Group. Agriculture : Ceres, Goddess of the Harvest, jsits in the center holding the Horn of Plenty. America, I wearing Liberty Cap, grasps the reins of a pair of fiery horses hitched to ,an American reaper. Beside Ceres stands 'Pomona with a basket of fruit, while near the reaper kneels I Flora gathering flowers. I 3d Group. Mechanics : In the center stands Vulcan sur- I rounded by cannon-balls, mortars and other mechanical prod- jucts; he leans upon an anvil with his right foot resting on I a cannon. j 4th Group. Commerce : Mercury the patron of mer- I chants seated on a pile of bales and boxes, holds up a bag of gold to the gaze of Robert Morris, the Financier of the i Revolution. There is a touch of irony in this picture, when one reimembers • that_ after Morris guided his country safely through its financial diffi- culties, he himself died a bankrupt in a debtor's prison. 5th Group. The Marine : Neptune in Royal state emerges from the deep seeking to discover what mighty event is tak- ing place. Below him Aphrodite is engaged in laying the (Atlantic cable which she has just received from a winged cherub. 66 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 6th Group. The Arts and Sciences : Minerva armed with helmet and spear, stands in the center near an electrical ma- chine, the principles of which she is explaining to a group composed of Benjamin Franklin, Robert Fulton and Prof. Morse. In his later years Brumidi^ was charged, chiefly by the Southern press, with having caricatured in his frescoi the leaders of the Confed- eracy. This he always denied; and probably the likenesses are acci- dental. But in the ist group, representing War, the figures to the R. of Freedom, with her drawn sword, resemble Jefferson Davis, and Alexander H. Stephens, the President and Vice-President of the Con- federate States; while the two figures on the L. equally suggest Gen. Robert E. Lee and John B. Floyd, Sec. of War under Buchanan. The scene might well have been meant to symbolize the stamping out of the Rebellion. d. The Supreme Court Rooms Descending again to the starting point we may continue northward to the Supreme Court Lobby. It should be re- membered that we are now in the old Senate Wing, the first part of the Capitol to be completed (p. 52). The first door on the R. opens into the Supreme Court Room (the old Senate Chamber). An attendant at the door will admit visitors on all proper occasions. Supreme Court. This Hall, occupied since i860 by the Supreme Court of the United States, was originally the Senate Chamber. After its partial destruction by the British in 1814, it was rebuilt by Latrobe from designs taken from ancient Greek theaters, and is admittedly one of the hand- somest rooms in the Capitol, It is semi-circular in form and its general resemblance, on a smaller scale, to the old Hall of Representatives cannot fail to be noticed. Its dimen- sions are : 75 ft. long, 45 ft. high and 45 ft. wide in the cen- ter. Along the rear of E. wall is a screen of columns and pillars of gray-green Potomac marble, supporting an en- tablature, above which is the historic Eastern Gallery. Pilasters of the same marble break the curve of the western wail. The ceiling, rising in a half dome, is ornamented with square caissons of stucco. The Hall is lighted by a large central sky-light. Between the central columns on the E. side, surmounted by a hovering eagle, formerly stood the chair of the President of the Senate; on the dais below him were the desks of the clerks, now replaced by the long "Bench" of the Supreme Court. The enclosed semi-circle, formerly occupied by the desks of the Senators, now constitutes the "Bar," reserved for the tables of the Attorney General, official reporters, THE CAPITOL 67 stenographers and Council legally admitted to practice in United States courts. In the rear are seats for spectators. The additional iron galleries formerly above these seats have been removed ; and nothing now obstructs the view of the series of marble busts here placed, of former Chief Justices. These busts from N. to S. are as follows: I. Morrison R. Waite, 7th C. J., 1874-1888, by Augustus Saint-Gaudcns; 2. Roger B. Taney, 5th C. J., 1835-64; by Saint-Gaudens; 3. Oliver Ellsworth, 3d C J., 1796-99; by Hezekiah Augur (1791-1858); 4. John Jay, ist C. J., 1789-95, by John Frasce; 5. John Rutledge, 2d C. J., 1795, by Alexander Gait (1827-63) ; 6. John Marshall, 4th C. J., 1801- 35, by Hiram Powers; 7. Salmon P. Chase, 6th C. J., 1865- 73, by T. D. Jones; 8. Melville W. Fuller, 8th C. J., 1888-1910, by William Ordway Partridge. ' History. In point of historic interest this chamber is probably ; the most important in the Capitol building. Here Jefferson twice deliv- ered his inaugural address and took the Oath of Office, both times in J the presence of Chief Justice Marshall. Here in Oct., 1803, the Senate , confirmed the Treaty with Napoleon I, by which the United S'tates ' acquired the vast territory known as the "Louisiana Purchase." _ Here ! the Senate sat, Dec. 2, 1823. when Monroe sent to Congress his historic I message formulating the "Monroe Doctrine." Here in 1830 took place the famous debate between Webster of Massachusetts, and Hayne of I South Carolina, in the course of which Webster gave utterance to his , famous phrase, "Liberty and Union, now and forever, one and insep- ' arable." It was in this room that Calhoun, Clay and Webster, in their old age, made their farewell speeches, and two of the three soon afterwards lay here in state, Calhoun's funeral taking place April 2d, 1850, and that of Clay July ist 1852. On May 22d, 1856, the old ' Senate was the scene of an assault upon Sumner by Brooks, a Member of the House, who struck him over the head with/ a cane, inflicting injuries from which the aged Senator was slow to recover. In Feb., , 1877, the Bench of the Supreme Court was occupied by the Electoral I Commission which here decided the Hayes-Tilden contested election, declaring Hayes President. Among the many cases argued before the ; Supreme Court since its occupancy of this chamber in i860, that which probably aroused the greatest public interest was the Income Tax Case, argued in March, 1895, by Richard Olney, then Attorney General, and Joseph H. Choate, resulting in a vote of 5 to 4 declaring the statute J unconstitutional. ] On the opposite side of the Supreme Court Lobby, .jtJe- hind a screen of monolithic columns of Potomac marble, are ! the Offices of the Clerk of the Supreme Court. These offices I are not open to the general public; but a request to enter *' them will usually be granted. The iriner, or private office I (entered through N. W. door in main office), contains several J interesting old portraits of former Clerks of the Court: I North Wall: i. James H. McKenney, by Albert Rosenthal (b. .1863); 2. Samuel Bayard, Clerk 1791-94, Artist Unknown. 3. John i Tucker, portrait by Charles Armcr. after Gilbert Stuart ; 4. William I Griffith, by Harold L. MacDonald (b. 1861). 68 RIDER'S WASHINGTON East Wall: 5. E. B. Caldwell, by Albert Rosenthal; 6. Plaster bust of James M. Wayne (1790-1867), Assoc. Justice S. C. South Wall: 7. William T. Carroll, Clerk 18-7-62, by Rufus Wright; 8. Daniel Wesley Middleton, by Thomas Hicks. Following the main corridor N. from the Supreme Court Lobby towards the Senate Wing, we pass (ist door on L.) the Supreme Court Robing Room. Here the Justices assume their voluminous black silk gowns, the only relic in the United States of the traditional costume of the English Judiciary. On each court day, just a minute before 12 o'clock, led by the Chief Justice, they file across to the Lobby which leads to the Bench. At such times the Court Messengers stop traffic by stretching crimson cords across the corridor. The Robing Room is not open to the general public, and the visitor should welcome any chance opportunity to inspect it. In the Vestibule may be seen, behind glass doors, the heavy silk robes of the Justices, each of whom provides his own; also, in S. E. cor., a quaint old mirror dating back to the time of Madison. In the Robing Room are several important por- traits of former Chief Justices : South Wall (R. to L.) : i. Roger B. Taney (C. J. 1836- 64), by George P. A. Healy (presented by the Washington Bar Association) ; 2. John jay (C. J. 1789-94), copied from Gilbert Stuart (presented by the Justice's grandson, John Jay, late Minister to Austria)'; 3. Oliver Ellsworth (C. J. 1796-99), by Charles L. Elliott (the features were copied from a family group by R. Earle, now in Windsor, Conn.) 4. John Marshall (C. J. 1801-35), by John B. Marten. West W^^ll: 5. Melville W. Fuller (C. J. 1888-1910), by Albert Rosenthal. East Wall: (R. to L.) : 6. Morrison R. Waite (C. J. 1874-88), by Cornelia Adele Fassettj above: 7. John Rut- ledge (appointed 1795, but never confirmed), by Robert Hinckley, from a miniature by John Trumbull; 8. Salmon P. Chase (C. J. 1865-73), by JVilliam Cogswell (1819-1903). North Wall: 9. *John Marshall (C. J. 1801-35), by Rem- brandt Peale. This portrait was presented by the Bar of New York to Cbief Justice Chase, and bequeathed by him to the Supreme Court. The furniture is of historic interest, many of the chairs having come from the old Continental Hall in Philadelphia. The Justices not infrequently are dissatisfied with the chairs assigned them on the Bench and exchange them for others. Some of the chairs in this room still bear the cards of for- mer Justices. THE CAPITOL 69 e. The Senate Wing Continuing N. along the main corridor, we next reach the North or Senate Wing, entering first the main Senate Lobby. Opposite the corridor is the principal doorway to the Senate Chamber. Formerly visitors were allowed on the floor of the Senate until 11 145 A. M., or fifteen minutes before the Houses convene. This privilege, however, was stopped about fifteen years ago, and no visitor can enter un- less taken in by a Senator. The Lobby contains a number of portraits ; also marble busts of former vice-presidents, supplementing the collection in the Senate galleries. They are placed in the following order, beginning at the S. E. corner: East Wall: i. John C. Calhoun, portrait, by Henry F. Darby (b. about 1831) ; 2. Henry Clay, portrait, by Darby. North Wall: 3. James S. Sherman, bust, by Bessie Pot- ter Vonnoh (1872- ) ; 4. Daniel Webster, portrait, by John N eagle (1796-1865) ; 5. Theodore Roosevelt, bust, by James E. Fraser (1876- ) ; 6. William B. Allison, portrait, by Wilbur A. Reaser; 7. Adlai E. Stevenson, bust, by Franklin Sivt- tnons; 8. Levi P. Morton, bust, by Frank Edzvin Elwell (1858- ) ; 9. Abraham Lincoln, portrait, by Freeman Thorp; 10. Garrett A. Hobart, bust, by Ehvell; 11. *George Wash- ington, by Gilbert Stuart (purchased hy Congress in 1876 for $1200) ; 12. Charles W. Fairbanks, bust, by Franklin Sim- mons. West Wall : 13. Thomas Jefferson, portrait, by Thomas Sully (1783-1872) ; 14. Patrick Henry, portrait, by George B. Matfhezvs (1857- ). South Wall : 15. John Adams, copy by E. F. Andreivs ((1835-1915), of portrait by Stuart; 16. John Langdon, por- trait, by Hattie E. Burdette; 17. Justin S. Morrill, portrait, by Eastman Johnson; 18. Charles Sumner, portrait, by W. Ingalls. To R. of entrance stands a venerable mahogany clock, installed in 1803. Note on the front of case the seventeen stars, emblematic of the first seventeen states, the latest of which to be admitted was Ohio, in 1802. The Senate Gallery is reached by either of the two Grand Stairways, at the E. and W. end respectively of the Senate Wing. At the foot of the West Stairway stands a marble statue of John Hancock, by Horatio Stone (1808-75). Opposite, above the stairway landing is a large painting. The Battle of Chapultepec, by James Walker (1819-89). It rep- resents the storming of the old castle by the American army. 70 RIDER'S WASHINGTON under General Scott, September 13th, 1847, It was painted originally for the Committee-room of Military Affairs of the House, a fact which explains the curve of the upper corners. Facing the stairs on the next or Gallery floor, hangs a full-length portrait of ♦Washington, by Charles IVilson Pcale. The portrait was begun in 1778, when Washington was forty-six years old, but was not finished until after the battles of Trenton, Princeton and Monmouth. At the latter place, Washington suggested that a good background for the picture was afforded by the view from the window of the framehouse where they then sat. Accordingly Alonmouth Court-House was added, together with a party of Hessians leaving under guard of American troops. Later Old Nassau College v/as also included, at Princeton, where the painting was finished. A replica, now in Versailles, was executed by the artist in fulfilment of a commission from Louis XVI through Lafayette. The Gallery corridors extend around the four sides of the Senate Chamber, excepting at the northwest corner, which is reserved for the use of members of the Press. The doors on the outer sides of the corridors open into various committee rooms; those on the inner sides give entrance to the various sections of the Senate Gallery. In a niche in N. wall of E. Senate corridor is the marble bust of Vice-President • Thos. R. Marshall (1913-21), by Moses A. IVainer. The Senate Chamber is a spacious hall, 113 ft. long and 80 ft. wide, inclusive of the galleries which extend around the four sides. The space beneath these galleries is occupied on the north side by the Senate Lobby (p. '/2>) 5 O'^ the other three sides by cloak-rooms for the Senators. The floor area is thus diminished to 84 by 51 ft. The height of ceiling is 36 ft. The walls are of marble and are paneled by pilasters grouped in pairs. The doors, desks and chairs are of mahogany. Note especially the high-backed and richly carved chair of the President of the. Senate, presented originally to Vice-President Hobart. The ceiling is flat and constructed of iron girders inclosing broad panels of stained glass, the designs symbolizing : War, Peace, Union, Progress and the various Arts, Sciences and Industries. History. In the Senate Chamber every four years, on March 4th, the Vice-President-elect takes the oath of office which is usually administered by the retiring Vice-President in the presence of the President, the President-elect and THE CAPITOL 71 AS90T rJB3iS3M © © Aaaoi Nd3isYS dooa aavo WOOa N0lid303U 72 RIDER'S WASHINGTON members of the Senate and the House. This ceremony takes place immediately before the inauguration of the President In this chamber are ratified all treaties made by the United Stated with foreign powers. Here, in March, 1868, began the famous impeachment trial of President John- son, culminating, on May loth, with the President's acquittal. It was in the Senate Chamber that the funeral of Chief Justice Chase took place, May 12th, 1873; and here also the funeral ceremonies of Charles Sumner, March 13th, 1874. The visitor should note that there are no portraits, paint- ings or mural frescoes in the Senate Chamber. This is in accordance with a unanimous resolve passed. Feb. 15th, 1884, to the effect that "no paintings or portraits be placed upon the walls of the Senate Chamber." The set of marble busts of former Vice-Presidents, described below, was specifically authorized by a resolution passed May 13th, 1886. The Gallery of the Senate Chamber completely sur- rounds the four sides, and is partitioned oft into eight sec- tions ; four occupy the middle of their respective sides and the other four the corners. *The Ladies' Gallery is in the S. corridor; the Men's Gallery occupies two sections at the S. W. and N. \V. cors. ; the Diplomatic Gallery is in the middle of the S. side, directly opposite the Press Gallery, which is above and behind the desk of the President of the Senate; in the middle of the E. end is the Senator's Gal- lery. The remaining two sections are marked "Reserved Gallery." While Congress is in Session, access may be had during the early morning hours to all these galleries ex- cepting that reserved for the Press, the only entrance to which is through the private Press rooms. This is the only time when the visitor has an opportunity to examine at close hand the series of marble busts of the first twenty Vice-Presidents of the United States, some of which are of admirable workmanship. They do not run in chronological order but, starting on the middle of the N. side, have been added alternatively R. and L. The following is a list of these busts, from L. to R., including date of office, sculptor and the respective section of the gallery including each : Press Gallery (North Wall, center) : i. John Adams. 1789-97, by Daniel Chester French; 2. Thomas Jefiferson. 1797-1801, by Moses Ezekiel (1844-1917) ; Reserved Gallery: 3. George Clinton. 1805-13. by Vittorio A. Ciani (i 858-1 908 ) ; 4. Daniel C. Tompkins, 1817-25. by Charles H. Niehaus; rEast Wall) 5. Martin Van Buren, 1833-37. by U. S. J. Dunbar; Senator's Gallery: 6. John Tyler, 1841,'by William THE CAPITOL 73 C. McCausIen; 7- Millard Fillmore, 1849-50, by H. J. ElU- cott; Ladies' Gallery: 8. John C. Breckinridge, 1857-61, by James F. Voorhees (1855—) ; (South Wall) : 9. Andrew Johnson, 1865, by JVilliam C. McCausIen; 10. William A. Wheeler, 1877-81, bv Edzi'ard Clark Potter; Diplomatic Gal- lery: II. Thomas A. Hendricks. 1885-89; by U. S. J. Dun- bar; 12. Chester A. Arthur, 1881, by Augustus Saint-Gau- dens; Men's Gallery : 13. Schuyler Colfax, 1869-73, by Frances M. Goodwin; 14. Hannibal Hamlin, 1861-03, by Franklin Sim- mons; (West Wall) : 15. William R. King, i8"53-57, by W. C McCausIen; Reserved Gallerv: 16, George ^L Dallas, 1845-49. by H. J. EUicott; 17. Richard M. Johnson. 1837-41. by /. P. Voorhees; Men's Gallerv: 18. John C Calhoun, 1825-33, by Theodore A. Mills; (North Wall) : 19. Elbridge Gerry, 1813- 17, by Herbert Adams: 20. Aaron Burr, 1801-05, by Jacques Jouvenal (1829-1905). In South Corridor, East Wall, are two historical paintings by John Blake IVhite, of Charleston. S. C (1781-1850) : I : The Battle of Fort Moultrie, Fought and ^^'on June 25, 1776; 2. Sergeants Jasper and Newton rescuing American Prisoners from a Squad of British, near Savannah, Ga. South Wall: i. Portrait of Hon. Henry Latimer, M.D., bv Clau'son S. Hammitt ; 2. Portrait of Hon. James Latimer, by Hammitt (both presented by Mary R. Latimer). In the E. Corridor, facing the E. Grand Stairway, hangs The Recall of Columbus, by Augustus George Heat on (b. 1844). painted in 1883. and reproduced on the 50c. postage stamp of the Columbian series of 1893. North of the stairway is a spacious Lobby, with win- dows on E. overlooking the Plaza, and door on W. opening into the gallerv^ reserved for Senators' families and friends. This lobbv contains a number of interesting portraits and busts. From R. to L., beginning on S. wall: i. Count K. K. Pulaski, marble bust, by Henryk Dmochozi'ski (1810-63); 2. Charles Sumner, bust, by Martin Millmore (1844-82); 3. Garibaldi, bust, by Giuseppe Martegana; E. Wall: 4. Zachary Taylor, bust^ Artist Unknown; 5. (above) James J. Garfield, mosaic portrait, by Antonio Salz'i-ati (1816-90), best known as having revived the making of Venetian glass at JMurano. i860) 6. Aysh-ke-bah-ke-ko-shay. "Flat-Mouth." a Chippewa Chief, bust, by Francis Vincenti; 7. (above) Abra- ham Lincoln, mosaic portrait, by Sahiati; 8. Be-sheck-kee, Indian marble bust, by Vincenti; N. Wall: 9. Tadeusz Kosciuszco, marble bust, by H. D. Saunders (pseudonym of Henryk Dmochowski) ; 10. Ckn. John A. Dix. portrait by 74 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Imogene R. Morcll (d. 1908) ; Gen. Dix is best remembered for his famous order, "If anyone attempts to haul down the American flag, shoot him on the spot!" 11. *The Florida Case before the Electoral Commission, Feb. 5th, 1877, by Mrs. Cornelia Adele Fassctt (1831-98), painted from life sittings in 1877-79 in the U. S. Supreme Court Room, and portraying a session of the Commission appointed to decide the disputed Hayes-Tilden Presidential Election; 12. Abra- ham Lincoln, bust by Mrs. Sarah E. Ames (1817-1901) ; a replica is in the State Capitol, Boston, Mass. To the N. of this lobby is a smaller Hall, from which a Ladies' Retiring Room, with woman attendant, opens on the R. This Hall contains two celebrated paintings by Thomas Moran (b. 1837) : E. Wall, The Chasm of the Colorado; W. Wall, The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone; bought by the Government for $10,000 each; S. Wall, Table Rock, Niagara, by F. Regis Gignoux (1816-82) ; Thomas Crawford, marble bust, by Tommaso GagUardi. A noted picture, which formerly hung in this room, is The First Fight of Ironclads, by William F. Halsall (b. 1841), representing the battle between the Monitor and Mcrrimac. It was purchased by the Government in 1877, at a cost of $15,000, and formed the only exception to the rule that no reminder of the Civil War should be displayed in the Capi- tol. This painting is now (1922) temporarily in storage and not on exhibition. The visitor may now return to the East Stairs (of Ten- nessee marble) ; above the middle landing hangs The Battle of Lake Erie, by IVilliatn Henry Pozcell (1824-79) ; this picture represents Commodore Oliver B. Perry transferring himself and his flag, while under fire, from his disabled flagship, the Lawrence, to the Niagara, Sept. 13th, 1813. The original and much smaller painting was executed by Powell in 1863 for the State Capitol, Ohio; this enlarged replica was ordered by Congress, at a cost of $25,000. It is said that the faces of the sailors were copied from former well- known employees about the Capitol. Facing the foot of the staircase is a Marble statue of Ben- jamin Franklin, by Hiram Powers (1805-88), the cost of which was $10,000. North of this staircase, on the main floor, the E. corri- dor leads to a handsome hallway forming the east approach to the Senate Chamber. This hall contains sixteen *Fluted THE CAPITOL 75 Columns of Italian marble, supporting a ceiling of the same. The capitals of these columns, in which the conventional acanthus leaves are replaced by the tobacco leaf, have been cleverly termed the ''Americanized Corinthian order of Architecture." This hallway leads to the eastern Portico of the Senators' Wing. This entrance is usually closed when Congress is not in Session. If open, the visitor should avail himself of the opportunity of inspecting the *Senafc Bronze Doors, without the necessity of climbing the outer stair- case. The5:e doors were designed by Thomas Crawford, who also modeled the figures in the pediment above this entrance. They constitute the sculptor's last work, for which he re- ceived $6000. The plaster models, executed in Rome by William H. Rinehart, cost $8940, while the casting of the doors (weight 14.000 pounds), by James T. Ames at Chico- pee, Mass. (1868), cost $50,500. It was the first casting of the kind in America. Each valve of this door consists of three panels and a medallion. The panels portray events taken from the Revolutionary War and the Life of Wash- ington : 1. Right or North Door: a. Upper panel: Death of General Warren at the Battle of Bunker Hill, 1775; b. Middle panel: The rebuke of Gen. Charles Lee by General Washington at the Battle of Monmouth, N. J., 17/8; c. Lower panel: The storming of the redoubt at Yorktown by Alexander Hamilton, 1781 ; Below : d. Medallion symboliz- ing War : Conflict between a Hessian soldier and a New Jersey farmer. 2. Left or South Door: (from bottom upward): e. Medallion symbolizing Peace and Agriculture ; f . Lower panel: Washington passing through an Arch of Flowers. Trenton. N. J., on his way to his Inauguration in New I York, 1789; g. Middle panel: Washington taking the Oath of Ofifice, administered by Chancellor Livingston; h. Upper panel : Laying the Corner Stone of the Capitol, Sept. i8th, 1793- Above the Portico are two reclining female figures of I marble in high relief .symbolizing (R.) Justice; (L.) History. I These also were designed by Crawford and executed in ( Italy, the sculptor receiving $3000. ' From the Senate Vestibule, N. W. cor., the visitor enters ; the Public Reception Room, an ornate apartment consisting 7$ RIDER'S WASHINGTON of two almost square alcoves, both profusely decorated by Brnmidi. In the northern alcove the ceiling contains four panels, each occupied by a symbolic female figure: N., Freedom, holding American shield, fasces and the Declara- tion of Independence ; W., War, w^ith sword and shield and starred helmet surmounted by tri-colored plume; S., Agri- culture, with fruits of the Harvest; E., Peace, bearing an olive branch. South Alcove: Note on ceiling, central group of three cupids bringing together the three colors of the National flag. In the corners are symbolized four virtues : N. E., Prudence, studying the future with the aid of a mirror which reflects the past; N. W., 'Fortitude, with drawn sword ; S. W., Temperance, holding bridle and bit, emblems of restraint; S. E., Justice, holding scales. On the S. wall is an historic painting in oils, also by Briimidi, representing ♦Washington consulting with Two Members of his First Cabinet (Jefferson, Sec. of State and Hamilton, Sec. of the Treasury). The Room of the Scrqcant-at-Arms adjoins the N. alcove on the E. Brumidi's decorations of this room consist of: I. A vivid center-piece on the ceiling symbolizing Re- construction, consisting of a group of female figures wel- coming back the erring sister; 2. On the four walls, under the arches, allegorical designs in chiaroscuro, imitating alto- relievo: E., Secession, represented by the breaking of the Fasces, while on the opposite sides lie respectively cotton and corn, the rival products of the two sections; S., War, with Engines of Strife; W., The Fasces once more united, with motto E Fluribus Unum and eagle; N., The implements of War are being broken and exchanged for Peace. The room S. of the Sergeant-at-Arms, now used by the Committee on the District of Columbia, is not usually open to the general public; but some obliging attendant will some- times unlock the door upon request. This was formerly the Senate Post Office, for which Brumidi designed the follow- ing appropriate frescoes containing symbolic figures : S., History, holding scroll ; E., Geography, with globe ; N., Transportation, with steam engine ; W., The Telegraph, two figures holding a connecting wire. From the Reception Room a door on the W. opens into a private corridor, extending along the N. side of the Senate Chamber, and opening into three rooms of special interest: the Vice-President's Room, the Senate Retiring Room and the President's Room. Formerly these rooms could be seen, 78 RIDER'S WASHINGTON while Congress was in Session, only by card from a Senator ; at present (iQ-^2) they are open to the public during the morning hours. Entering this passage we reach (First door on R.) the Vice-President's Roem. This chamber, in decoration the plainest of the Senate series, has numerous historic associa- tions. Here on Nov. 22d, 1875, Vice-President Henry b. Wilson died; and here also Sept. 22, 1881, in the presence of General Grant, Garfield's Cabinet, Senators, Representa- tives and justices of the Supreme Court, Chester A. Arthur took the oath of office administered by Chief Justice Waite. In this room on E. wall hang: i. Rembrandt Peak's ♦Portrait of Washington which, in 1829, was exhibited and much admired in the principal cities of Europe. Purchased by the United States in 1832 for $2000; 2. (L.) Henry Wilson, marble bust by Daniel Chester French; 3- Lafayette S. Foster (acting Vice-President during Johnson's term), marble bust by Charles Calverly (1833-1914). The much admired French clock was acquired during the term of President Polk; the book-case on the W. side dates from the term of President Buchanan. The closet in the S. E. cor. contains an antique mirror purchased, ac- cording to tradition, by John Adams. Immediately adjoining the Vice-President's Room on the W. is the Senate Retiring Room, one of the richest and most costly apartments in the Capitol. It consists of a cen- tral chamber and two vestibules, the former being 38 ft- long, 21^ ft. wide and 19K ft- high. The floor is of marble mosaic; the walls, where not adorned with large mirrors, are veneered with variegated Tennessee marble, and the panelled marble ceiling is supported by four Corinthian col- umns of pure white Italian marble, — thus justifying the popular name of the Marble Room. In the eastern vestibule is a small bronze bust of Lincoln, by Albert de Grout. *The President's Room. This square and compara- tively small apartment is one of the show places of the Capitol. The walls are adorned with large mirrors, and, like the ceiling, are covered with frescoes by Brumidi. In this room it has been the custom since the days of Andrew Johnson (with the exception of Grover Cleveland), for the "President to sit during the last day of each Congressional Ses- sion for the purpose of signing bills of an urgent nature. On the walls, in hexagonal panels, are medallion por- traits of Washington's First Cabinet: S. wall, Jefferson, Secretary of State and Osgood, Postmaster General; E. THE CAPITOL 79 wall, Henry Knox, Secretary of War, and Alexander Hamil- ton. Secretary of the Treasury; W. wall, Edmund Randolph, Attorney General. On the S. wall, under the arch of the ceiling, is a por- trait of Washington (by Brumidi after Rembrandt Peale) with a reclining female figure on each side: L., Peace; R., Victory holding shield with inscription, "Boston, Trenton, Princeton, Monmouth, Yorktown." The ceiling decorations consist of four symbolic groups : N., Religion, veiled and holds a Bible; W., Legislature, who holds a sword and teaches children the Constitution; S., Liberty, holding a shield and fasces; E., Executive Au- thority, holding a sceptre and book of statutes. Between these are four corner-pieces, containing fresco portraits : S. E., Columbus {Discovery) ; N. W., Americus Vespucius {Exploration) ; S. W., Benjamin Franklin (History) ; N. E., William Brewster (Relic/ion). In the southwest corner is a bronze bust of McKinley, by Emma C. Guild. In this room, Dec. i8th, 1876, King Kalakaua of the Hawaiian Islands had an audience. An announcement of his presence was made in the Senate, a recess was promptly taken, and all the Senators were indi- vidually presented to the King. f. The Ground Floor We have now reached the Western Corridor, which leads back to the Western Grand Staircase. Here we may descend, if we wish, to the ground floor of the Capitol, a portion of the building usually overlooked by tourists, and habitually omitted by the official guides. Pictorially, however, it is one of the most interesting sections of the whole structure, since here through a space of ten years Brumidi, then in his prime, exercised his fertile imagination and versatile brush in adorning the corridors and many of the Committee rooms, with vivid frescoes. His work has suffered from neglect, and from too lavish an application of soap and sand (al- though luckily the cleaner's zeal usually ceased within easy arm-reach). In a few Committee rooms the frescoes have been painted out to satisfy the simple taste of certain Sena- tors, partial to blank walls. For example : in what was once the room of the Committee on Territories (N. corridor, first door on L., east of W. corridor) the only surviving memorial of what was once a lavishly decorated room is the large and richly decorated bronze chandelier embellished with buffaloes, Indian heads and various other symbols of the far West. THE CAPITOL St West Basement Corridor, S. to N. : In lunettes above the two entrances to the Interstate Commerce Committee Room (formerly Indian Affairs) are frescoes representing: I. Columbus and an Indian maiden; 2. Las Casas, mis- sionary to the Indians. Opposite (W. side), in lunette above door to Committee on Rules, Authority consults the Written Law, while Justice holds the Scales. Beyond, above door to Committee on Appropriations, lunette showing America sur- rounded with cannon and stacked arms. At intervals along the walls are medallion portraits, including John Hancock, Francis Hopkinson, Robert R. Livingston, John Jay, Roger Sherman, Charles Thomson, Robert Morris and Charles Car- roll. The room of the Committee on Appropriations (origi- nally Military Affairs) contains five historic frescoes: W. wall, I. The Boston massacre, 1770; S. wall, 2. The Battle of Lexington, 1775; 3. Washington at Valley Forge, 1778; E. wall, 4. The Storming of Stony Point by Anthony Wayne, 1779; N. wall, 5. The Death of General Wooster during the British Invasion of Connecticut, 1777. The northern end of the_ west corridor has come to be known as the Pompeiian Corridor, because here Brumidi imi- tated, not only the designs, but the distinctive coloring of Pompeiian frescoes. The visitor should note the undimmed brilliance of the deep reds and blues. North Corridor, W. to E. The wall medallions in this corridor include: Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, Richard Montgomery, Joseph Warren, Thomas Mififlin, Silas Deane, Horatio Gates, Israel Putnam., Jonathan Trumbull and Daniel Webster. On N. side are two lunettes: i. Above entrance to Committee on Patents (originally Terri- tories Room) represents: Negotiations for the Louisiana Purchase (April 30th, 1803) ; 2. Over last door on L. (origi- nally Committee on Foreign Relations) fresco copied from West's painting, "Signing the Articles of Peace, 1782,'* con- taining portraits of Richard Oswald, signer for Great Britain ; John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, John Jay and Henry Lau- rens, for the United States. The north corridor is intersected midway by a central corridor, at the N. end of which are fresco portraits of Kent, Livingston and Story. The north corridor opens at E. end into a small pa- vilion. Over the door of Committee on Foreign Relations (formerly Post Offices and Post Roads) is Benjamin Frank- Im, father of the postal system, seated in his laboratory. 82 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Above second door is Fulton, inventor of the steamboat; and diagonally opposite is John Fitch, a forerunner of Fulton, working on a model of a steamboat. The above form the more noteworthy details in these frescoed passages, in which every wall-space is overlaid with arabesques, tracer- ies of vines, foliage and fruit; animals and birds; allegorical figures and landscapes. From the northern corridor, private staircases ascend to the Senate Lobby. The richly wrought bronze stair-rails, and the corresponding ones in the House basement, were modeled by Charles Baiidin, a French sculptor. Some details, such as the eagles, deer and cherubs, were designed by Brumidi. They were cast by Archer, I'Varner, Miskey & Co. at a cost of over $22,000. Returning to the central corridor, we may proceed S., passing, on L., the public restaurant (p. 7). To the E. of the small rotunda (p. 64) is the entrance to the Senate Law Library, containing a bas-.relief group by Franzoni, and a marble bust of Justice Story, by W . \V . Storv (1819- 95). Continuing S., we enter, directly beneath the great Ro- tunda, the so-called Crypt, a circular chamber with a colon- nade of forty Doric columns, modeled after the Temple at Paestum. These columns are surmounted by groined arches supporting the floor above. The exact center of the Capitol building is indicated by a star in the pavement. To the east is the Suffrage Group presented by American women: A rough marble pedestal surmounted by busts of Lucretia Mott, Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton, the work of Adelaide Johnson. The sub-basement, below this crypt, was originally planned to contain the tomb of George Washington. Since 1865 it has been the receptacle of the bier used to sustain the coffin of AT^raham Lincoln and other notable Americans who have lain in state in the Capitol. Immediately S. of the crypt are the offices of the Chief Clerk of the House. In the N. E. room of this suite was situated the Washington terminus of Morse's first telegraph line, connecting Washington with the Railway station on Pratt St., Baltimore. Here, on May 24th, 1842. IVIiss Annie G. Ellsworth, daughter of Henry L. Ellsworth, then Com- missioner of Patents, sent the first telegraphic message, "What hath God wrought!" The strip of paper on which the telegraphic characters of this message were printed is now in the Athenaeum, Hartford, Conn. The basement of the House Wing is traversed by a noble hallway, flanked by thirty monolithic Corinthian columns, the capitols of which are said to have been modeled from those of the Temple of the Winds, at Athens, with this modifica- THE CAPITOL 83 tion, that the upper order of acanthus leaves has been re- placed by American tobacco. The only Committee room of special interest in the House basement is that of the *Coimnittee on Agriculture, S. of the W. public staircase. The frescoes in this room (1855) constitute the first work done by Brumidi in the Cap- itol. On the ceiling are the Four Seasons : Spring S3''mbol- ized by Flora, Summer by Ceres, Autumn by Bacchus, \\'inter by Boreas. On E. wall : Cincinnatus called from the Plough to become Dictator of Rome. W. wall : Putnam called from the Plough to join the Revolution. S. wall: Above, medallion of Washington ;, below, Harvest Scene in Olden Times. N. wall: Above, medallion of Jefferson; below, Harvest Scene with Modern Implements. g. The House Wing Ascending the western staircase to the main floor of the House of Representatives, we reach a series of corridors similar to those in the Senate Wing (p. 69), with doors on the outer sides opening upon Committee rooms, and those on the inner sides giving access to the floor of the House. As in the case of the Senate, the floor is now closed to visitors, unless accompanied by a member (a description of the House as seen from the Visitoirs' Gallery is given on p. 85). Proceeding S., on W. corridor, we reach, on L., what is collectively known as the Speaker's Lobby'. It consists of a spacious and ornamental parlor, extending along the S. side of the House Wing, together with the corridor separ- ating it from the House. This corridor contains a collec- tion of portraits of former Speakers of the House, as follows : South Wall (west vestibule), i. Nathaniel Alacon, N. C. (1758-1837), Speaker, 7th, 8th, and 9th Congresses, by R. D. Gauley; 2. Michael C. Kerr, Ind. (1827-76), Speaker, 44th Congress, by Charles A. Gray (1857 ). South Wall (Lobby corridor), 3. James G. Blaine, Me. (1830-93), Speaker, 41st, 42d and 43d Congresses, bv Free- man Thorp (1844- ); 4. Schuyler Colfax, Ind. (1823-85), Speaker, 38th, 39th and 40th Congresses, by Freeman Thorp; 5. William Pennington (1796-1862), Speaker, 36th Congress, by Joseph Lauber (1885 ) ; 6. James L. Orr, S. C. (1822- 72), Speaker 35th Congress, by Esther Edmonds (1888 ); 7. Linn Boyd, Ky. (1800-59), Speaker 32d and 33d Con- gresses, by Stanley Grant Middleto'n (1852 ); 8. Howell .S4 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Cobb, Ga. (1815-68), Speaker 31st Congress, by Lucy Stanton (1875 ); 9. John W. Davis, Ind. (i799-i859), Speaker 29th Congress, by William D. Murphy (1834); 10. John Winston Jones, Va. (1791-1848), Speaker 28th Congress, by James B. Sword (1839 ); n. John White, Ky. (1805-45), Speaker, 27th Congress, by Gerard Barry (1864 ); 12. Robert M. T. Hunter, Va. (1809-87), Speaker, 26th Con- gress, bv Richard N. Brooks (1865-1920) ; I3- James K. Polk, Tenn. (1795- 1849), Speaker, 24th and 25th Congresses, by Rebecca Polk; 14. John Bell, Tenn. (1797-1869), Speaker, 24th Congress, first Session, by JVillie Betty Newman; 15. Andrew Stevenson, Va. (1784-1857), Speaker, 21st, 22d and 23d Congresses, by Spencer Baird Nichols; 16. Philip P. Barbour, Va. (1782-1841), Speaker, 17th Congress, by Kate Flournoy Edwards (1877 ). South Wall (E. vestibule) : 17. Langdon Cheeves. S. C. (1776-1857), Speaker, 13th Congress, by Hal Morrison. North Wall (E. vestibule) : 18. Jonathan Dayton. N. J. (1760-1824), Speaker, 4th Congress, by Henry Harrison (1844 ). North Wall (Lobby corridor) : 19. Henry Clay, Ky. (1777-1852), Speaker I2th-i8th Congresses, by Giuseppe Fagnani ("^^^ \T ?vnk InJerajatt Cofflm^rce st"«; ^ jij CosmotCTul) UFageHe jz Beliaco Thest a •""I J^MB cxicuTive;' ,„^ !■ ■ \ enouuBS ,'• wilt- ->'''''^ THE WHITE HOUSE 113 Gas lighting was installed in the White House in 1848; and a system of heating and ventilation in 1853. About 1857 the W. terrace was built over with green-houses and its existence forgotten until unearthed during the wholesale reconstruction in igo2. The E. portico was removed some time prior to 1870. The White House continued to serve the double purpose of offices and residence of the successive presidents down to the fall of 1902, notwithstanding that the discomfort of its inadequate space was steadily augmenting, and plans for a new Executive Mansion were seriously discussed. There were some who even advocated a change of site, and the high ground of Meridian Hill (p. 208), at what was then the terminus of i6th St., found numerous supporters. But the widespread public sentiment in favor of retaining an historic landmark, second in interest only to the Capitol itself, led to a determination to endeavor first to learn whether it would be possible, without destructive alterations, to adapt the old building to the modern needs. Accordingly, in the spring of 1902, Messrs. McKim, Mead and White were requested to make an exhaustive examination of the White House, and to submit plans and estimates for such changes as seemed necessary. In his message transmitting to Congress the reporlT of the architects, President Roose- velt succinctly defined as follows the spirit in which the proposed recon- struction was to be made: "The White House is t^e property of the Nation, and so far as is compatible with living therein it shall be kept as it originally was, for the same reason that we keep Mount Vernon as it originally was." The report of the architects having been approved, Congress appropriated $65,000 for the erection of temporary offices for the President, and $475,000 for remodeling and refurnishing the White House. The contract was let for the work, the stipulation being that everything must be done within four months, so that the family could again occupy the building and the President the offices. Most of the work was done during the summer months while President and Mrs. Roosevelt were at Oyster Bay. Upon their return in September they were quartered temporarily at No. 22 Jackson Place (P- 193), diagonally opposite the White House. In October the work was completed, and the President took possession of the new Executive offices, and his family moved into the now commodious quarters of the White House. The task of the architects had been vastly facilitated by the discovery in the Government archives of Hoban's original plans and specifications which differed in many respeats from the building he subsequently erected. Wherever practicable Messrs. McKim, Mead and White endeavored to realize the original architect's conception, with the result that the White House, as it stands to-day, is more nearly than ever before a fulfillment of Hoban's first intent. The alterations accomplished may be briefly summed up as fol- lows: the unsightly accumulation of green-houses west of the Wtute House was demolished, and the hidden colonnade of the west terrace brought to light. The buried foundations of the demolished east terrace were located, and both terraces rebuilt on a much more im- pressive scale than the originals, yet in hamiony with the spirit revealed in Hoban's plans. The new Executive offices erected at the extreme end of the W. terrace, aft'orded ample room for the President's official staff, making it possible to transform the space formerly occupiea Dy them in the S.E. section of the second story of the White House, into two additional bed-room suites and bathrooms. The eastern terrace was utilized as the main public entrance, including cloak rooms with compartments sufficient to meet the needs of 2500 guests. The 114 RIDER'S WASHINGTON most radical alteration within the house itself was the removal of the N. wall of the State dining-room, for the purpose of taking in the western end of the central corridor. This necessitated the sacrifice ot the historic old stairs; but it increased the seating capacity of the dining-room by 60 per cent, making it now possible to accommodate more than a hundred guests. The greatest transformation of all is one which has left no outward mark: i. e., the removal of the entire original wooden framework, and a substitution throughout of modern steel construction. The result is that the White House stands to-day essentially an up-to-date fire-proof building, fully adequate, so far as may be foreseen, to meet all requirements for a century to come. Formerly, not only were the state reception-rooms open to the general public, but occasionally, even so late as in the seventies, attendants would permit visitors to see some of the private apartments during the temporary absence of the President's household. For some time past the East Room and the corridors through which it is approached have been the only parts of the house visible to the casual stranger (open daily, 10 a. im. to 2 p. m.) The historic Red, Blue and Green Rooms could, however, be seen by special arrange- ment. This also applies to the President's offices, which are open to visitors only by appointment. The White House Grounds. Originally, the "President's Square" comprised about seventy acres, extending south to the Mall, and along Pennsylvania Ave. from 15th to 17th St., thus including the present sites of the Treasuiy Building (p. 122), and State, War and Navy Building (p. 126). This tract, however, was never fenced in as a whole. The present grounds, enclosed by a high iron fence, contain only fourteen acres. The two main gateways are on Pennsylvania Ave. near the N. E. and N. W. corners respectively. They were the scene of the suffragette "picketing" of 1917, and the resultant rioting. The beauty of the President's Grounds is due in the fin^t instance to Andrew Jackson Dowting, who introduced the English land- scape gardening system into America, and was commissioned by Con- gress to lay out these grounds, together with the Mall and Franklin and Lafayette Squares. Bowling died before he had made more than a beginning; but his plans were diligently carried out by his successor. The most notable subsequent improvements were made during the Grant administration, when the disfiguring iron fences which bordered the circular walks of the north grounds were removed, and the lawn thrown open to its present spacious proportions. At the same time the two executive avenues to E. and W. of the mansion on a line with Madison and Jackson PI. were cut through and graded; and the low lands at the S. of the park were filled in and planted with trees and shrubbery, by the late George H. Bro'uit, "father of the Washington parking system." A still more recent change, made during the Wilson administration, is the establishment, under the direction of Col. Harts, of two picturesque colonial gardens to the E. and W. of the mansion, south of the terraces. THE WHITE HOUSE 115 Many of the trees in the grounds are historic. On the E. knoll in the south grounds, is an American elm, planted by President John Quincy Adams, and believed to be the oldest tree on the grounds. Another elm, almost directly in front of the mansion on the N. side is one of a pair planted by President Hayes, on the E. and W. curves of the driveway respectively. _ The eastern elm was uprooted -by a storm in 1913; the young tree which now occupies its place was planted the following year by President Wilson. A little fvtrther N. on the driveway is a fine sweet gum tree, planted in 1892 by President Harrison. The scarlet oak on the N. of the walk leading to the executive offices was set out by President McKinley in the second year of his administratiom. The fern-leaved beech near the entrance to the E. colonnade is one of a pair planted respectively by President and Mrs. Roosevelt. The president's tree died; but that of his wife is in fine condition. Lastly, several trees were planted by the grand- children of President Harrison; the finest is a scarlet oak, which towers over the N. E. gateway. It was set out by little Marie McKee. The Interior of the White House. The former main entrance to the White House, and the North portico, is now reserved for the use of the President's family and personal friends. The public, when admitted at all, traverse the length of the E. terrace and enter the central hallway of the ground floor. On N. and S. are two large ante-rooms (for men and women respectively), intended for the use of guests at the large receptions. Beyond these ante-rooms a broad and easy stairway leads to the floor above. This stairway is divided through the middle by a brass railing. Guests at receptions ascend the western half of the stairway to the receiving line in the Blue Room on the floor above, continue thence through the East Room to the door opening at the head of these stairs and descend the eastern half of the stairway to the wrap-rooms below. Opposite the stairs on the ground floor is the room remodeled by Col. W. W. Harts during the summer of 1916, to contain the steadily augmenting collection of White House china, glass and other table-service. Eventually all the wall space will be lined with cabinets ; but as yet only one cabinet has been installed. It is of the Georgian type and is of hard pine, painted ivory white. The pediment is inscribed in gold letters "China used by the President." The furniture in the room is part of the teakwood set acquired during the McKinley administration for the East Room. The cabinet is divided into five sections, containing variously three, four or five shelves each. The relics are arranged in the chronological order of the Presidential suc- cession. The oldest pieces are in the central section ; the rest of the collection being arranged in order toward right and left. ii6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON On the upper shelf of the central section are several pieces of the table silver purchased by the Government from the retiring Russian Minister, Baron de Tuyll, including a coffee pot and bread tray, on which the Baronial Arms can still be traced. In the centre section are also the Washington and Adams relics, including a plate from Washington's famous Cincinnati dinner set, presented in 1916 by Mary Custis Lee, daughter of Robert E. Lee. The most interesting of the Adams relics are the John Adams goblet and a silhouette of Abigail Adams, first Mistress of the White House. On the first shelf, at the L. of the Washingtoniana, is a speci- men of the well-known Jefferson blue and white Cantonese porcelain, presented by a lineal descendant, the late T. Jefferson Coolidge, of Boston. Next to it is the Madison china, including reputed specimens of Dolly Madison's famous blue and gold set. To the L. of the centre section are relics representing the Presi- dents from Fillmore to Benjamin Harrison. Among the Jackson relics is one of a pair of old Sheffield candelabra, presented to President Jackson by Tammany Hall. President Taylor is represented by an ornate Mexican spur, a pair of silver candlesticks and the gold head of a cane inscribed "To the hero of Buena Vista." The Lincoln exhibit occupies a whole shelf, and most of the dishes were selected from the White House closets. They include, however, two recent donations, a tea cup and an after dinner coffee cup, which are especially prized because they have no duplicates among the White House china. The East Entrance Hallway, known also as the "New Basement Picture Gallery," contains several interesting por- traits : I. The second Mrs. Tyler (Julia Gardner), by F. Anelli; 2. Mrs. Martin Van Buren (Angelica Singleton), wife of Alajor Van Buren. son of the President; 3. Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes, by Daniel Huntington, presented by the Women's Christian Temperance Union ; 4. Mrs. James K. Polk, pre- sented b\^ the Women of Tennessee ; 5. Mrs. Benjamin Harrison, by Daniel Huntington, presented by the Daughters of the American Republic, of which society she was one-time president; 6. Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, by Chartran. Here also are four marble busts: r. Martin Van Buren; 2. John Bright; 3. Christopher Columbus; 4. Amerigo Vespucci (the two last named are, together with the bust of Washington in the East Room, among the earliest art acquisitions of the White House). Ascending the stairs the visitor finds himself in the Cen- tral Corridor of the main floor, which formerly traversed the entire building from E. to W.. but now terminates at the point where its western extremity was incorporated into the State Dining-Room (p. 120). In this corridor are the portraits of several of the more recent Presidents : I. Chester A. Arthur, by Daniel Huntington; 2. Grover Cleveland, by Eastman Johnson; 3. Benjamin Harrison, by Eastman Johnson; 4. James A. Garfield, by E. F. Andrezvs; THE WHITE HOUSE 117 5. William McKinley, by August Benzigcr (b. 1867) ; 6. Theodore Roosevelt, by John S. Sargent; 7. William H. Taft, by Zorn. The middle room on the S. side is a large oval apart- ment, extending beneath the curving southern portico and formerly known as the Diplomatic Room. The reason why this room never served its intended purpose is that, while the White House was originally intended to face the south, with main entrance on the present basement level, the northwest growth of the city necessitated transferring the entrance to the higher level of the Pennsylvania Ave. facade. The western half of the ground floor is now occupied by the steward's departments, the storerooms, large and small kitchens, heating apparatus and refrigerators. In the lower story of the west terrace wing are the laundry and ironing rooms, the maids' dining-room and separate quarters for the men and women servants. The Main Floor is occupied by the state departments, with the one exception of the family dining-room, which w^ith the adjoining pantry is situated in the N.W. corner, W. of main Entrance Hall. South of the Entrance Hall, across the corridor, is the elliptical Blue Room, with the Red Room on the West adjoining the State Dining Room, and the Green Room on the East adjoining the great East Room, which occupies the entire width of the East wing. Anyone entering the White House by the central northern entrance, finds himself in the spacious Vestibule or Reception Hall, which is in itself an impressive apartment, measuring 40x50 ft., and, like all the rooms of the main story, 22 ft. from floor to ceiling. The floor and base of wainscot (as in the case of the central corridor) are of Joliet stone; the walls and ceiling are of plaster, finished in bufif and white. At (the S. end there was formerly a much admired but inappropriate screen of Tiffany glass, dividing the Reception Hall from the corridor. This screen has been replaced by a row of six columns. Two large tubs of Istrian stone, con- taining plants, occupy the spaces between the columns, on each side of the central opening. The E. and W. wall spaces are occupied in part by two spacious mirrors, extending from floor to ceilng. The Hall is lighted by bronze standards and a central bronze lantern, directly beneath which the President's seal, in yellow bronze, is inlaid in the stone flooring. Similarly, between the central columns is inlaid an ellipse of forty-five stars surrounding the dates "1792-1902." ii8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Through the central corridor, whether entering through the Vestibule or by way of the Ground Floor, the visitor proceeds to the East Room^ the one apartment thrown open to the general public. It is the largest room in the White House, measuring 40x60 feet. The walls of this room are covered with enameled wood paneling, set into which are twelve bas- relief panels, representing themes taken from Aesop's "Fables" (executed by Piccirilli Bros.). The window draperies are of heavy yellow silk damask. Velvet cushioned seats surround the walls, but there are no chairs in this room, and the walls are bare of pictures, the portraits of General and Mrs. Wash- ington, which formerly hung here, having been transferred to the Red Room (p. 120). One notable work of art, how- ever, is the famous so-called "gold piano," valued at over $20,000. The inside of the lid contains a much admired painting of the Muses. Standing on cabinets set against the E. wall, are two beautiful blue Sevres vases, presented to President McKinley by the President of France in commemoration of the lajang of the Franco-American cable. The room is lighted by four bronze candelabra, placed respectively in the four corners ; also by three massive crystal chandeliers, suspended along the centre of the ceiling. The latter date from 1902. The original chandeliers installed in President Grant's administration were removed before the re- modeling oif the White House, reconstructed and are now serving in various Committee Rooms of the Capitol. The East Room, which Mrs. Adams once used as a drying-room, was originally intended as a State Banquet Hall, and was used as such until 1827, since which time it has been the State Reception Room. Prior to the restoration of the White House in 1902, it was once again used occasionally for large official banquets. This room has witnessed many historic scenes, both joyous and tragic. Among the brilliant weddings that have here been celebrated were those of: Nellie Grant to Algernon Sartoris, May 21st, 1874; Alice Roosevelt to Nicholas Longworth, February 17th, 1906; Jessie Woodrow Wilson to Francis B. Sayre, November 25th, 19 13. Among the many eminent Americans who have lain in State in this same room were: President Zacharj^ Taylor, Col. Ellsworth of the N. Y. Zouaves, May 24-27, 1861; Willy Lincoln, March 20th, 1862; President Lincoln, April 19th. 1865; President Garfield, "Sept. ,20, 1881; The wife and daughter of Secretary Tracy, February 5th, 1890; President McKinley, 1898; and the first wife of President! Wilson, August 7, 19 14. The Green Room, reached either through doorway at S.W. cor. of the East Room, or through the central corridor, is a much smaller apartment, measuring 30x22 ft. Nearly everything in this room is new, including the mantel, the furniture, rug and chandelier. The wall coverings and window ; THE WHITE HOUSE 119 curtains are of green velvet, copied from an old piece of Genoese velvet. On the walls of this room are the portraits of the following Presidents : I. John Quincy Adams, by G. P. A. Hcaly; 2. Andrew Jackson, by E. P. Andrews; 3. Martin Van Buren, by Healy; 4. William Henry Harrison, by Andrews; 5. Franklin Pierce, by Plealy; 6. James Buchanan, by Andrews; 7, Abraham Lincoln, Artist unknown; 8. Andrew Johnson, by Andrews; 9. Rutherford B. Hayes, by Daniel Huntington. Through the western door of the Green Room we enter the Blue Room, an elliptical apartment measuring 30x40 ft., and generally admitted to be the most beautiful room in the White House. The wall covering is a heavy corded blue silk embroidered at top and bottom with a Grecian fret. The curtain hangings are of the same material, embroidered with stars, and the curtain poles are surmounted by gilt eagles. The furniture is white and gold, upholstered in blue and gold. The mantel, dating from the restoration in 1902, is of pure white marble, the shelf being supported on bundles of arrows carved in marble with bronze tips and feathers. On the mantel stands a massive gold clock, said to have been the gift of Napoleon I to Lafayette, and presented by the latter to George Washington. Blind doors are in the walls near the southern end of the room, and at receptions the guests coming from the Red Room pass the receiving party standing in a single line directly in front of the windo.vs. The guests especially invited to share the Blue Rooni with the receiving party, face the President. A silken cord is stretched across the room from door to door to insure freedom of passage for the guests while being presented. The Blue Room was originally the President's dining-room, and was known variously as the "Circular Room," "Elliptical Dining-room," and later "Oval Reception Room." Under the Madison regime it was hung with yellow damask; this gave place successively to old rose, green and then for the first time under the Van Buren administra- tion, to blue. During Johnson's Presidency it was changed to red; while Grant was President it reverted to blue, which has remained its distinctive color ever since, the only variation having occurred during the Arthur administration, when the room was redecorated by Tiffany, and the pale tint adopted caused it to be temporarily called the "Robin's Egg Room." This has long been the favorite room for White House weddings. Among them may be mentioned the following: i. Maria Hester Monroe (daughter of the President) to Samuel Lawrence Gouverneur, March 9th, 1820; 2. Mary Hellen (niece of Mrs. John Quincy Adams) to John Adams (son of the President), February loth, 1828; 3. Delia Lewis (daughter of an intimate friend of President Jackson) to Alphonse Josephe Yver Pageot (Secretary of the French Legation) ; 4. _Mary Easton (niece of Mrs. Jackson) to Lucius B. Polk (also during the Jackson administration); 5. Elizabeth Tyler (third daughter of the President) to William Waller, January 31st, 1842; 6. Emily Piatt (niece of President Hayes) to Gen. Russell Hastings, June 19th, 120 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 1878; 7. Frances Folsom to President Grover Cleveland, June 2d, 1886. (For twenty years, from 1886 to 1906, there were no weddings in the White House), 8. Eleanor Randolph Wilson (youngest daugh- ter of the President) to William G. McAdoo (Secretary of the Treas- ury), May 7th, 1914. It was in the Blue Room that a brilliant reception was given to the Infanta Eulalie, daughter of the Queen Regent of Spain, May 19th, 1893. The Red Room, situated immediately W. of the Blue Room, corresponds in position and dimensions to the Green Room (see above). This room is wainscoted in white enamel; the wall covering and curtains are of red velvet, and the furniture is upholstered in red damask. The room contains a richly carved mahogany cabinet, ornamented with gold, in which are seven exquisitely dressed male and female Japanese dolls, the whole constituting a present to Mrs. Roosevelt from the Japanese Legation. On the walls of the room are a number of portraits, including the historic full-length por- trait of George Washington, which formerly hung in the East Room and was long attributed to Gilbert Stuart, but is now admitted to be a copy by an obscure English artist. The traditional story still told to visitors is that Mrs. Dolly Madi- son cut this painting from its frame with a pair of scissors to save it from destruction by the British, and carried it with her in her fight from the Capital. But according to the testimony of her own letters, the painting was entrusted to the care of Mr. Custis, a nephew of Washington, who had come post-haste from Arlington to save it. The canvas was not cut or otherwise damaged, for a servant broke and removed! the outer frame, leaving' the picture intact. Here also is a portrait of Martha Washington, by E. F. Andrews, painted in 1878. Being a modern work, its chief interest centers in the fact that the dress is a faithful repro- duction of a masquerade costume made in Paris, and worn at a Martha Washington Centennial Tea Party, given in Philadelphia in 1876. The other portraits in this room are: I. John Adams, by G. P. ^. //(^a/y,- 2. Thomas Jefferson, by E. F. Andrezvs; 3. James Madison, Artist unknoivn; 4. James Monroe. Artist unknown; 5. Zachary Taylor, by Andrezvs; 6. James K. Polk, by Healy; 7. Ulysses S. Grant, by Le Clair: (y-vin^c^j - *'-• c-txc^ The State Dining-room, adjoining the Red Room on the W., is now the second largest room in the White House, thanks to its enlargement in 1902, whereby, instead of accom- modating from 50 to 60 guests, it can now seat a maximum of 107. The walls are paneled from floor to ceiling in dark English oak, richly carved ; the chandelier and wall-branches are of silver ; around the frieze are placed mounted heads THE WHITE HOUSE 121 of American Game; on the floor is an Indian carpet in solid color; the window draperies are in green velvet. In this room are two tapestries of 17th century Flemish workmanships the one over the mantel illustrating a scene from Vergil's "Eighth Eclogue," and inscribed with the following quotation (in Latin) : "Nysa is given in marriage to Mopsus! What may not we lovers expect? Griffins novir snail mate with horses, and in the succeeding age the timorous does shall come to drink with dogs. Begin with me, my flute, Maenalian strains. Mopsus, cut fresh nuptial torches; for a wife is on the point of being brought home." The Family Dining-room, directly N. of the State Dining-room, is finished in green. It is reached from the second floor by a private staircase. The Main Stairway to the second floor leads from the E. wing of the central corridor. It is constructed of Joliet stone, and consists of a broad flight from the main floor to the landing, where it divides into two flights. A double gate of wrought iron, which rolls back into pockets in the walls, stands at the foot of the staircase. The Second Story, known as the "Family Floor," is devoted to the living rooms of the President's family, guest- chambers and the President's private office and library. As on the floor below, the Family Floor has a wide corridor, running E. and W., connecting two large sitting-rooms, one on the E., above the East Room, the other on the W., above the State Dining-room. There are seven bed-rooms on this floor, each with an adjoining bathroom. The four largest are situated respectively in the four corners, and each includes a small dressing-room. The N.W. bed-room was President Arthur's rooimi, and later the Clevelands' sleeping-iroom. Dur- ing the Harrison administration it was converted into a nursery for the young McKees. The opposite suite, in the S.W. cor., was occupied by Miss Rose Cleveland during part of President Cleveland's first term. In this room Mrs. Har- rison died; and here also President Garfield was brought after being wounded by the assassin, Guiteau. The bed-room immediately E., and directly over the Green Room, was long known as the "Prince of Wales' Room." Among the Presi- dents who have occupied it are Grant and Benjamin Harrison. This is the room which was assigned to Miss Frances Folsom on the eve of her marriage to President Cleveland. Subse- quently, it was transformed into a nursery for Ruth Cleveland- 122 RIDER'S WASHINGTON The next room to the E., an oval apartment, directly over the Blue Room, is now the President's Library. Beyond the Library, and opposite the main stairway, is the President's STUDY AND PRIVATE OFFICE, formerly known and used as the "Cabinet Room." On the marble mantel is the. following inscription : "This room was first used for meetings of the Cabinet during the administration of President Johnson. It continued to be so used until the year MCMII. Here the treaty of peace with Spain was signed." The entire eastern half of the attic floor is used for stor- age purposes. In the western half are the servants' bed-rooms and bath-room. IV. Other Buildings in the Executive Grounds a. The Treasury Building **The United States Treasury Building (PI. II— D4) at the S. W. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 15th St., is an imposing rectangular granite structure, extending 468 ft. N. to S., and 264 ft. E. to W. ; or inclusive of porticoes and steps 582 x 300 ft. The order is pure Grecian Ionic, the columns and pilas- ters rising through the three stories of the superstructure, above which is an attic. Below are two basement stories, the lower one being rustic. The building is surmounted by a stone balustrade. The original section, now the east wing, was designed by Robert Mills; the N., S. and W. extensions by Thomas U. Walter. The site of the Treasury Building was formerly occu- pied by two brick Department buildings, corresponding in general design with the old War and Navy Buildings, W. of the White House (p. 126). The northernmost, or State Department Building was erected in January, 1820, approxi- mately where the north wing of the present building now stands, while the south wing covers the site of the original Treasury Building, contracted for by the Federal City Com- missioners, June 23d, 1798, at an estimated cost of $39,511. This was one of the buildings destroyed by the British in 1814. The second Treasury Building, erected on the same site, was destroyed by fire in 1833. It was determined that the new edifice should be built upon a much more imposing scale, and the plans drawn by Robert Mills were accepted. By Act of Congress, dated July 4th, 1836. the President was directed to cause a site to be selected. It was the intention of the Committee in charge to choose a position such that the proposed structure would not interfere with an uninter- TREASURY BUILDING 123 rupted view along Pennsylvania Ave., from the Capitol to the White House. Through lack of unanimity of opinion, the choice was so long delayed that President Jackson, so the story goes, becoming impatient one day, thrust his walking- stick into the ground at the N. E. cor. of what is now the eastern wing, exclaiming, "Here, right here, I want the cornerstone laid." This story is corroborated by testimony given by the architect in 1836, before a Congressional com- mittee to the effect that the precise position of the building had been "determined by the positive directions of the late President." The older portion of the Treasury Building, designed by Robert Mills, was commenced in 1836, and finished in 1841, at a cost of $660,773. It was T-shaped, consisting of a colon- nade facing E., and extending 340 ft. along 15th St., and a central wing projecting W. 170 ft. The facing of the outer walls and the thirty Ionic columns of the colonnade, were of Acquia Creek sandstone. In 1855 it had become evident that the Treasury Department had quite outgrown its quarters, and Thomas U. Walter was entrusted with the task of plan- ning enlargements on an extensive scale. His designs called for the erection of a N. and S. wing, extending westward 264 ft, and connected by a W. wing which, uniting midway with the old central wing, formed a parallelogram, enclosing two square courts. Work on the extensions was begun in 1855, after Congress had passed an appropriation of $300,000. In 1861 the S. wing was completed. Further progress was de- layed during the Civil War, and it was not until i86g that the final touches were put to the entrance portico of the N. wing. The edifice, begun by Young, from Walter's designs, was con- tinued by Rogers and completed by Mullett, at a cost of j approximately $6,000,000. I ^ All of the Treasury extensions, including the huge mono- - lithic columns and pilasters, are of granite from Dix Island, Maine. It was of these monoliths, lying along the street, en- I cased in wood, during the Civil War, that "Bull Run" Rus- I sell, correspondent of the London Times, taking a pessimistic view of the Capital City's future fate, wrote that they were I "lying there in their wooden coffins, with their heads as near Heaven as they would ever get to be." For nearly two-score I years the artistic unity of this building remained marred by , the incongruity of its three granite and one sandstone ' fagades ; but at last, in 1907-08, the sandstone facing and drum i columns of the E. wing were replaced by granite from Mil- ( ford. New Hampshire. 124 RIDER'S WASHINGTON The first Inaugural Ball o£ President Grant was held, in 1869, in the north front of this building. The Treasury Building contains the offices of the Secretary of the Treasury and his Staff, and the following fiscal bureaus and offices: Comptroller of the Currency; Treasurer of the United States; Com- mi9sioner of Internal Revenue; Director of the Mint and Bureau of the Budget. The last named, most recent of all the Bureaus, was created by Act approved June 10, 1921; Its chief duties are to prepare for the President the annual Budget, and such supplemental estimates as he may recommend from time to time to Congress. The Treasury Building also contains the office of the supervising Architect, whose duties include the construction, alteration and repairs of all public buildings, and securing cessions from States of jurisdiction over sites, and payment for same. Today there is comparatively little to be seen by the casual tourist within the Treasury Building. The operation of printing all paper money, postage and revenue stamps is now conducted at the Bureau of Engraving and Print'ng. The famous Silver and Gold Vaults, in which is stored the greater portion of the Government's gold and silver reserve, situated in the sub^basement, beneath the N. wing, are shown only to visitors personally known to the Treasurer. These vaults are protected not only by combination and time- locks, but still further by an electrical protection system. It is said that upward of $100,000,000 is' stoired in one of these vaults. The main entrance is beneath the N. Portico, facing Pennsylvania Ave. Along the walls of the entrance hall, and along the North Corridor, are cases containing numerous in- teresting exhibits, all fully labelled. They include: Entrance Hall, E. Side: i. Redeemed fractional currency, 1862-76 issues; Old keys to Treasury Vaults and money boxes, before the introduction of combination locks; 2. Specimens of redeemed mutilated bills; 3. Specimens of Gold and Silver* bars of various sizes^ and purity. West Side: i. Case containing rolled strips of gold from which Double Eagle, Eagle, Half and Quarter Eagle gold planchets are punched; also coin-gold ingot for Eagles, weight, 113 oz., 900 fine, value, $2102 (cuts 130 planchets); 2, Minor coins and planchets; bars of nickel for 5 cent pieces, weight 21 2/10 lbs., value $3.60 (cuts 1200 planchets) ; Bar of bromze for one cent pieces, weight 23 lbs., value $3-45 (cuts 2ioa planchets). North Corridor, South Side (W. to _E.) : i. Presidential Medals; 2. Navy ]\Iedals; 3. Army Medals; 4. Original hand-engraved dies for coin; specimen of transfer order of $60,000,000 from Denver to N. Y. Sub-Treasury; Grant of $200,000 to General Lafayette for services during" the Revolution. On N. side^of aisle, near E. end, hangs the ^-plag draped above box occupied by President Lincoln, in Ford's Theatre. April 14, 1865. The rip in lower edge of flag was made by Booth's spur where it caught as he leaped from the box after shooting the President. TREASURY BUILDING 125 The Cash Room, diagonally opposite the Pennsylvania Ave. entrance, is the show room of the Treasury Building, and reputed to be one of the costliest in the world. It extends upward through two stories, and is hest seen from the gallery (open daily from 9 A.M. to 2 P.M.; no pass required). The lower story has a stylobate base of black Vermont marble, with mouldings of Bordiglio (Italian) marble, and panels of Sienna marble. Above this base are pilasters of black-veined Italian marble, and panels of Bordiglio marble. The upper story is like the lower, excepting that some of the panels are of Sarrangolum marble, from the Pyrenees. As its name implies the Cash Room is a cashier's office, where the Treasury cashes the various warrants drawn upon it, and presented here for payment. The daily transactions run into millions. North of the Treasury Building in front of main entrance is a fountain consisting of an immense granite vase, the tassa of which, measuring 12 ft. in diameter, is carved from one solid block of granite. In Sherman Plaza, facing the S. front of the Treasury building, stands the *Monument to Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman (1820-91), designed by Carl Rohl-Smith. It con- sists of an equestrian statue in bronze, heroic size, supported on a lofty pedestal of Vermont granite, standing on an emi- nence and approached from all four sides by a series of stone steps. At the four corners of the spacfbus base stand bronze figures of young soldiers in uniforms of the Civil War period, representing, respectively, the Cavalry, Infantry, Artillery and Engineers. The adornments of the pedestal consist of : I. Commemorative inscriptions ; 2. Symbolic groups repre- senting War and Peace ; 3. A series of four bas-relief tablets representing leading episodes in Sherman's military career ; 4. Medallions of the principal officers on Sherman's staff. [These are placed as follows : I North side: Bas-relief represents "Sherman's March ithrough Georgia" ; below are the following inscriptions from his public utterances : "On no earthly account will I do any act or think any thought hostile to or in defiance of the old government of the United States," i Alexandria, Louisiana, Jan. i8th, 1861. I "War's legitimate object is more perfect peace," Washington, D. C, Feb. 23d, 1882. i West side: Symbolic group, "War." "War personifies a 'terrible woman who tramples humanity under foot. She is 'attended by Vultures, illustrating Sherman's famous comment, 'War is Hell,'" Mrs. Carl Rohl-Smith. Below (to L. and R.) jfour medallion portraits, by Mrs. Theodore A. R. Kitson, of Boston: Logan, Blair, Ransom and Dodge; in the middle: bas-relief. "Sherman at the camp-fire." 126 RIDER'S WASHINGTON "It was singularly impressive," says one biographer, "to see this soldierly figure walking there by the flickering camp-fire, while the army slept." South side: Bas-relief depicting the "Battle of Atlanta"; note especially the remarkable perspective; Sherman and his staff are watching the progress of an engagement taking place two or three miles away and largely obscured by the smoke of battle. The names of the principal officers and regiments are inscribed along the base of the tablet. East side: Symbolic group, "Peace," representing "a young girl with flowering branch of a fruit tree ; at her feet, on one side, the strong succors the weak; on the other side, animals are being fed, thus symbolizing the ideal and material sides of life," Mrs. Rohl-Smith ; below (to L. and R.) : medallion portraits of A. G. Smith, Grierson, Howard and McPherson. In the center, bas-relief, "Sherman at Mission- ary Ridge." The monument was unveiled in 1903. The cost was borne by tire Society of the Army of Tennessee, which contributed $11,000, and by the United States. An offer was made of $90,000 for com- petitive designs, and the competition was won by Carl Rohl-Smith in Jan., 1896. According to the terms of the contract the work was to be done in four years. The sculptor asked and received a year's extension, but died before completing his task, . in Copenhagen, Aug. 20th, 1900. The work w-as so far advanced that it was decided to carry out tbe sculptor's designs. The working models of the Eques- trian and three of the soldiers were completed; the four bas-reliefs were nearly finished; and designs for War and Peace had been care- fully worked out. The completion of the work was accomplished by the aid of the follov/ing artists: The Equestrian) figure was completed by Laurits Jensen, of Copen- hagen; the/ fourth soldier was modeled by Sigvald Asbjomsen, of Chicago; Peace was finished by Stephen Sinding and Carl J. Bonnesen, of Copenhagen; and War by Sinding and Asbjomsen. Surrounding the monument and on a level with the Park, is a spacious mosaic pavement recording the names of all the battles in which Gen. Sherman took part. This was designed by Mrs. Rohl-Smilh, for which Congress appropriated $8000. b. The State, War and Navy Building The *State, War and Navy Building (PL II— C4), until the recent completion of the new Interior Department Bliildinii (p. 213), the second largest Government edifice in Wash- ington, occupies the S. E. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 17th St., directly W. of the White House. It was designed ^ by A. B. MuUctt, supervising architect of the Treasury, and is a conspicuous example of his fondness for Renaissance architec- STATE, WAR AND NAVY BUILDING 127 ture. It is on the Roman Doric order, and consists o£ a huge quadrangular structure, comprising a basement and sub- basement of Maine granite, and a four-story superstructure of Virginia granite, surmounted by a mansard roof. Dimensions: from N. to S. 567 ft.; from E. to W., 342 ft.; maximum height, 128 ft. There is a central pavilion with stairway and portico, consisting of a two or three-storied col- onnade with the columns grouped in pairs on all four fa- cades. The E. and W. pavilions comprise six stories, inclusive of the mansard. The building was begun in 1871, and the S. pavilion was finished and occupied by the Depairtment of State in 1875. Mr. Mullett was succeeded as supervising ar- chitect by General E. O. Babcock and Col. T. L. Casey, U. S. Engineers. The building, finally completed in 1893, covers 4^ acres, and contains approximately two miles of corri- dors. The total cost was $10,405,850. This building occupies an historic site. Here, in 1 799-1801, was erected the first U. S. Department Building for the accommodation of the State, War and Navy Departments. In 1802 the Post Office Department was temporarily housed in this building. On August 25, 1814, it was burned during the British occupation. Subsequently, two bridk buildings were erected on this site, one of them (in 1820) at the N. end, fronting on Pennsylvania Ave., and occupied by the War De- partment (dimensions 130x60 ft.); the other (in 1815) directly S., on the site of the destroyed building occupied by the N'avy Department (dimensions 59x57 ft.). These buildings were demolished in 1879 to make way for the new edifice. As its name implies, this building formerly held the principal offices of the State, War and Navy Departments, the first named occupying the southern section of the build- ing; the second, the western side; and the third, the eastern side. Since the completion, however, of the new Navy Build- ing (p. 34^) all the offices and bureaus of that Department have been removed, with the sole exception of the Navy Library. Hours. The buifding is open to the pubHc week days, holidays excepted, from 9 A. M. to 2 P. M. iThe visitor, approaching by the main or Pennsylvania Ave. entrance, will note on either side of exterior stairway I number of interesting war trophies. They include two Bronze Cannon captured at Santiago in 1898, and cast at pouay respectively in 1693 and in 1748; an 8-in. Bronze ijowitzer surrendered at Yorktown, Oct. 19, 1781 ; two small Cannon taken in the War with Mexico, and named respectively fter the Evangelists: "San Mateo" and "San Marco"; and ^n original 42-pounder Rodman Gun, used in defence of Fort 5umter, re-enforced and rifled in Richmond by the Con- ederates, and later recaptured by the Federal forces. 128 RIDER'S WASHINGTON If the visitor upon entering applies at E. end of North Corridor, an official guide may be obtained to conduct him through such roonis as arc O'pen to the public. A guide, how- ever, is not necessary ; and many tourists prefer to visit these rooms unattended and at their leisure. The Offices of the Secretary of State are situated in the 5. Corridor, on the second floor. The Secretary's private office can be visited only by those having official business. The Ante-room, however (No. 214), is open to visitors, and contains an important collection of ^Portraits of former Secretaries of State. North Wall (E. to W.) : i. Elihu Root, Sec. of State 1905-09 (Roosevelt's Administration); 2. Thomas S. Ba}-ard, Sec. of State 1885-89 (Cleveland's Admin.) ; 3. John C. Calhoun, Sec. of jState 1842-46 (Tyler's Admin.) ; Thomas Jefferson, Sec. of State 1793-1801 (Adams' Admin.), by C. L. Ransom, after Wilson Pcale; 5. T. Frelinghuysen, Sec. of State 1884-85 (Arthur's Admin.), by Daniel Huntington; 6. John W. Foster, Sec. of State 1892-93 (Harrison's Admin.), by Henry Floyd; 7. William M. Evarts, Sec. ot" State 1877-81 (Hayes' Admin.) ; 8. Robert 'Smith, Sec. of State 1809- 1 1 (Madison's Admin.), by Freeniun Thorp; 9. Henry Clay, Sec. of State 1825-29 (John Quincy Adams' Admin.) : 10. James G. Blaine, Sec. of State 1881 and 1889-92 (Garfield's and Harrison's Admin.) ; 11. William R. Day, Sec. of State 1898 (McKinley's Admin.), by Albert Sterner; 12. James Madison. Sec. of State 1801-09 (Jefferson's Admin.), by A. G. Heaton. West Wall: (N. to S.) i. John Hay, Sec. of State 1898- 1905 (McKinley's and Roosevelt's Admin.) ; 2. William Jennings Bryan, Sec. of State 1913-15 (Wilson's Admin.), by Irving R. Wiles. South Wall: (W. to E.) i. Martin Van Buren, Sec. oi State 1829-31 (Jackson's Admin.), by E. E. Andrews; 2. John Marshall, Sec. of State 1800 (Adams' Admin.) ; 3. John Quincy Adams. Sec. of State 1817-25 (Monroe's Admin.) ; 4. Edward Everett, Sec. of State 1852-53 (Fillmore's Admin.) ;; 5. William R. Marcy, Sec. of State 1853-57 (Pierce's ' Admin.) ; 6. John M. Clayton, Sec. of State 1849-50 (Taylor's ; Admin.) ; 7. Louis McLanc, Sec. of State 1853-54 (Pierce's Admin.), by Hinckley; 8. Jeremiah Black, Sec. of State 1860-61 (Buchanan's Admin.) ; 9. John Forsyth, Sec. of State 1834-41, (Jackson's and Van Buren's Admin.), by i Freeman Thorp; 10. William H. Seward, Sec. of State' I STATE, WAR AXD NAVY BUILDING 129 1861-69 (Lincoln's and Johnson's Admin.) ; 11. Hamilton Fish, Sec. of State 1869-77 (Grant's Admin.), by Daniel Huntington. East Wall: (S. to N.) i. John Sherman, Sec. of State 1897-98 (A'IcKinley's Admin.), by C. A. Whipple; 2. Philander C. Knox, Sec. of State 1909-13 (Taft's Admin.), by Alphonse Jongers. The Diplomatic Reception Room, diagonally opposite on the south corridor, in which the Secretary receives foreign Ministers, also contains a number of portraits : East Wall: (S. to N.) i. Robert Bacon, Sec. of State 1900 (Roosevelt's A'dmin.). by Sorolla y Bastida ; 2. Richard Olney, Sec. of State 1895-97 (Cleveland's Admin.), by Hubert Vos. West Wall: (N. to S.) i. Daniel Webster, Sec. of State 1841-43 (Wm. H. Harrison's Admin.), by G. P. A. Healey; 2. Lord Ashburton, by G. P. A. Healey. South Wall: Walter Q. Gresham, Sec. of State. The State Library (Room 308), on the third floor, south corridor, was formerly regarded as the most interesting room in the building since it contained the original Declara- tion of Independence, which for greater safety has recently been transferred to the custody of the Library of Congress. The State Library, however, still possesses a number of national heirlooms which merit a visit, including the Szi'ord of Washington and the Staff of Franklin. The Sword was one of four bequeathed by Washington to his four nephews, and was in turn willed by Samuel 'Washington to his- son by whom it was presented to Congress in 1843. The Stafif was bequeathed by Franklin to Washington, "my friend and the friend of mankind." The will describes it afi "my fine crab-tree walking stick, with a gold head curiously wrought in the form of the Cap of Liberty. ... It was a present to me from that excellent woman, Madame de Forbach, the dowager Duchess of Deux-Ponts." The Library is open from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. It is a reference library for the use of the Department of State and Diplomatic corps. Others, however, may consult books by obtaining permission from the Secretary, Assistant Secretaries or Chief of the Bureau. The collection, comprising approximately 70,000 volumes, consists principally of works on international law, diplomacy, history, travel, foreign law and biographies of statesmen. The Offices of the Secretary of War are on the second floor, west corridor. The Secretary's Reception Room (No. 130 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 231) is open to the public, and contains a collection of por- traits of former Secretaries of War. North Wall: (E. to W.) i. John M. Scofield, Sec. ot War 1868-69 (Johnson's Admin,), by H. P. Curtis; 2. Al- phonso Taft (father of ex-President Taft), Sec. of War 1876 (Grant's Admin.), by Daniel Huntington; 3. Stephen B. Elkins, Sec. "of War 1891-93 (Harrison's Admin.), 4. John P. Rawlins, Sec. of War 1869 (Grant's Admin.), by Robert W. Weir; 5. Jacob M. Dickinson, Sec. of War 1909-11 (Taft's Admin.). In N. W. cor. stands a marble bust of Edwin M. Stanton. West Wall: (N. to S.) i. Henry Stimson. Sec. of War 1911-13 (Taft's Admin.), by Gari Melchers; 2. Lindley M. Garrison, Sec. of War 1913-16 (Wilson's Admin.), by Emil Fuchs. South Wall: Major General Horatio Gates {1777). East Wall: (S. to N.) i. Major Gen. Hugh L. Scott, Sec. ad-interim, Fdb. -March 19116 (Wilson's Admin.) ; 2. Alexander Ramsev, Sec. of War 1879-81 (Haves' Admin.) ; 3. Gen. William W. Belknap, Sec. of War 1869-76 (Grant's Admin.), by Huntington; 4. Newton W. Baker. Sec. of War 1916-21 (Wilson's Admin.) ; 5. Robert T. Lincoln, Sec. of War 1876-77 (Grant's Admin.), by D. Cameron. On W. Wall are flags from Fort Sumter ; the one on L. was the Garrison Flag that floated over the Fort during the bombardment. See bronze tablet. On S. Wall, above man- tel is a case containing the flag which wrapped the cofifin of Abraham Lincoln on the journey from Washington to Springfield, 111.. April, 1865. "The clock on the mantel was installed by Jefferson Davis when Secretary of War in 1853. The S. door leads through an intermediate room to the Secretary of War's private office. (Not open to visitors except on busiiness). In this office hang the following pic- tures : North Wall: Elihu Root. Sec. of War 1899-1904, by Madrazo; East Wall: *General Henry Knox, First Secre- tary of War 1789, by Young after Gilbert Stuart; South Wall : Edwin M. Stanton, by Henry Ulke. In the intermediate room are the following portraits : East Wall: i. James ]McHenry, Sec. of W^ar 1796, by Daniel Huntington, after Pollock; 2. Alexander J. Dallas, Sec. ad-interim 1815, by Ph. Morton: 3. William H. Craw- ford. Sec. of War 1815. bv Huntington afte • John JVeslev Jarvis. North Wall: i. 'Wini:im C. Everett; 2. Russell THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 131 Alger; 3. Jefferson Davis, 1853-57^ by Huntington. West Wall: I. George W. Crawford, 1849-50, by Huntington; 2. Gen. Peter B. Porter, 1828, by Huntington after IVcir. South Wall: I. Luke T. Wright; 2. John C. Calhoun, 1817, by Jarvis. The Navy Department Library, situated on the fourth floor, east corridor, is primarily for the use of the Officers of the Navy, and is officially closed to the general public. Visitors, however, will usually be admitted to the Reception Room, considered the finest apartment in the building. It measures 30 x 50 ft., with iron walls inlaid with 32 marble panels of Malachite, Sienna and Porphyry, given respectively by France, Italy and Spain. The Onyx disks that adorn the balcony rail were presented by Mexico, and the inlaid floor of Minton tiling by England. All these gifts were made during Grant's Administration. Especially notable are the four candelabra, consisting of bronze figures weighing 800 lbs. each, which occupy the four corners, and represent respectively : i. War and Peace ; 2. Liberty ; 3. Industry and Mechanics; 4. Literature, Arts and Commerce. Outside," above entrance door, is a stone brought from Pomipeii. The resources of the Library are approximately 50,000 vols., ex- clusive of public documents which have never been accessioned. The collection is chiefly technical and professional, and is classed as one of the principal naval libraries of the world. Among its treasures are manuscript records of the War of 18 12. The room directly beneath the Naval Library, formerly the Reception Room of the Secretary of State, is now oc- cupied by General Pershing. The collection of models of historic battleships, which formerly occupied the corridors of the main floor, have been removed to the new Navy Building (p. 346). In leaving by main N. doorway, the visitor should note on E. Wall a Bronze T-ablet commemorating "The services and sufferings of the 243.I35 horses and _ mules employed by the American Expeditionary Forces overseas during the great World War." V. The Old Residential Section (From C Street to Judiciary Square) C Street between 3d St. and John Marshall Place, was, until about 1870. the center of one of the most fashionable residential sections in Washington. As the center of fashion shifted N. and W., this locality remained a quiet back-water, scarcely touched by modern growth. Most of the old houses, full of historic associations, are still standing. 132 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Trinity Church (founded 1829), the third Protestant Episcopal Church, occupies the N. E. cor. of C and 3d Sts. Its first edifice was on 5th St., between D and E Sts., on the site now occupied by the Columbian Building. The present church, dating from 1851, is a Gothic structure of brown- stone, with two octagonal towers surmounted by spires sug- gestive of minarets. In the center of the auditorium the ceiling rises in a spacious octagon. This was one of the churches used as hospitals during the Civil War. Henry Clay and Daniel Webster both attended service at Trinity. One block N., on the triangle formed by 3d and D Sts, and Indiana Ave., stands a bronze statue of Gen. Albert Pike (1809-91), a standing figure, heroic size, erected in 1901 by the Masonic Fraternity. Below is a seated bronze female figure symbolizing Fame and bearing a banner. G. Trenta- nove, sculptor. No. 318 Indiana Ave. was the home of Chief Justice Taney, and here he died in 1864. No. 324 was the last home of Rear-Admiral Robley D. Evans ("Fighting Bob"). It is now occupied by his married daughter. The large old-fashioned dwelling opposite Trinity Church, N. W. cor. of C St., was built in 1849 for David Aiken Hall, a distinguished member of the District Bar, and an intimate friend of Daniel Webster, with whom he was associated in many legal battles. Mr. Hall's first wife was daughter of Charles Bulfinch, one of the architects of the Capitol. This house is now a Temporary Home for ex-Union Soldiers and Sailors, under the Board of Charities. The square brown house on S. E. cor. of 3d St., with old- fashioned iron trimmings and a pagoda-like- roof, is now occupied (11922) by the Boys' Club of Washington. It was formerly for many years the residence of "Duke" William M. Gwin, and in ante-bellum days was regarded as one of the /'~^show places of Washington. William M. Gwin was colleagvie of Fremont as Senator from Cali- fornia. In earlier years he was one of the House members from Mississippi, and was recognized as the millionaire representative of the South, dictating all moves made in defense of states' rights and ^.^^slavery. He went to Mexico to help Maximilian establish his brief Empire, and was rewarded with the empty title of Duke of Sonora. On the fourth or S. W. cor. of 3d St. is the Crosby House, an unpretentious rooming and boarding house. It was erected about 1836 as the private residence of Alarshall Cary Selden, and was a favorite rendezvous of fashionable society. South on 3d St. are several interesting old houses on the colonial order of architecture. No. 219, regarded as one of the best examples of its type in the city, dates from 1831, and THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 133 was for some years a popular Congressional boarding-house. Franklin Pierce, Jonathan Cilley, James M. Mason and Robert C. Winthrop resided here while members of Congress. Diag- onally opposite, -No. 224, was formerly Mrs. Beveridge's famous Indian boarding-house, which harbored such notables as Red Cloud, White Feather and Crazy Horse. No. 226 occupies the site where Millard Fillmore and John C. Calhoun once resided. Opposite on C St., No. 302, was the house of John W. Maury, Mayor of Washington 1852-53, and for many years president of the Bank of the Metropolis (now National Metropolitan Bank). No. 304 was, from 1839 until his death in 1867, the home of Dr. William Jones, whose wife was a sister of the late William W. Corcoran. • No. 306 was in 1847 rented from its owner. Dr. Jonas Green, by Robert C. Win- throp, Speaker of :he House. The adjoining Arizona Hotel occupies in part the former site of 308, owned and occupied ; for a time by Francis Scott Key, author of "The Star- I Spangled Banner," whose widow sold it in 1843. ! No. 315 was once the home of Henry C. Schoolcraft, the well-known writer on Indian themes, and his wife, Mary J Schoolcraft. ,i No. 322 was the home of Henry L. Ellsworth of Indiana, I first Commissioner of Patents (1836-48), whose daughter in '. 1842 dispatched the first telegraph message ever sent (p. 82) ; it was occupied by James Campbell while Postmaster Gen- eral (1853-57) ; and later was the home of Zenas C. Robbins, a prominent patent la\\yer and personal friend of Lincoln. Robbins was one of five commissioners appointed to organize a local Police Force. It is related that Lincoln, upon meeting the newly 1 assembled board, explained to the five, naming them one by one, that he had appointed them on this, that and the other recommendation, concluding with the words, ''and I have appointed Mr. Robbins to ! please myself." The second house to the W., No. 326, was the temporary \ home of Gen. John C. Fremont, the "Paiihfinder," when a ( struggling young Lieutenant of Engineers ; and it was from I here in 1841 that he eloped with Jessie, the prettiest daughter of his near neighbor. Sen. Thomas H. Benton. Later he lived I for a time at No. 318. ; The accounts of the family opposition which led to this elope- ' ment are widely contradictory. In his own published memoirs General ! Fremont states that his relations with Mr. Benton were most cordial, j and that the opposition came mainly from Mrs. Benton, who, while ! always gracious to him, objected first on the ground of the youth 1 of her daughter, who was only sixteen; and secondly because she I I dreaded the hardships of an army officer's wife, having delayed her , own marriage for seven years, until Mr. Benton resigned from service. 134 RIDER'S WASHINGTON This house was in 1866 purchased by members of the First Presbyterian Church as a parsonage for Dr. Byron Sunderland (1819-1902), under whose guidance, during the years that it was attended by President Cleveland, that church attained its highest eminence. Nos. 332-334, now partly modernized and thrown together as a printing establishment .(the eastern doorway is evidently unchanged), both have interesting associations. The former was for thirty years the home of the Rev. William McLain, one of the early pasters of the First Presb3'terian Church (1837-40) who died here in 1873. The other was for many years the home of Sen. Thomas H. Benton. On Feb. 27th, 1855, the house was totally destroyed by fire. Benton lost all the manuscript and notes of the nearly completed second volume of his Thirty Years Viezvs, all of which had to be replaced from memory. A new house was promptly erected on the same site, and here he wrote his Examination of the Dred Scott Case, in which he severely criticised Judge Taney; also his Debates in Congress, the concluding pages of which were dictated on his death-bed. When they were concluded he sent for a few old friends to bid them fare- well. Among those who obeyed the summons was President Buchanan. Diagonally opposite, on the N. E. cor. of John Marshall Place, is a quaint old house with a spacious front yard, dating from very early in the 19th century, and built by a sea-faring man, a certain Mr. Caldwell of Philadelphia. John Quincy Adams is said to have once lived here. During 1830-57 it was the home of Gottlieb C. Grammar, president for 35 years of the Franklin Fire Insurance Co., and of the Patriotic Bank, and vestryman of St. John's and later of Trinity Church. Diagonally opposite on the S. W. cor. of C St., stands the Metropolitan il/. E. Church, a dignified structure of brownstone in the early English Gothic order of architecture, erected 1854-69, at a cost of $225,000 (not including tower and steeple). History. The ground occupied by the Metropolitan Church was donated in 1854 by the Wesley M. E. Chapel, for the erection of a National Methodist Episcopal Church. The plan was approved at a meeting of the General Conference and the corner-stone was laid that same year; but for want of funds the edifice was not completed until March ist, 1869. As in many of the older Washington churches, the ground floor is occupied by the Church parlor and Sunday School rooms. Double stairways lead up from the vestibule to the main auditorium on the floor above. Two Presidents, Grant and McKinley, and two Vice-Presidents, Logan and Fair- banks, attended service here. The Presidential pew is No. 67, on the L. of the W. aisle. Behind it. No. 65, is the Logan pew. THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 135 The pulpit and pulpit-rail are of olive-wood made from logs brought from Mt. Lebanon and the Mount of Olives. In the arch behind the pulpit, is a small black keystone in- scribed with Hebraic characters and consisting of a fragment from Solomon's Temple. To the R. of pulpit in the S. W. cor., are several memorial tablets: i. To Vice-President John- A. Logan ; 2. To the Rev. John P. Newman, D.D., Bishop of the Methodist Episcopal Church, the third pastor of the Metropolitan M. E. Church (1826-99); 3. To Ulysses S. Grant (tablet erected by his friend George W. Childs). To the L. is a marble bust of Bishop Newman. Bishop Newman was raised to the Bishopric in his third pastoral term in this church; and instead of resigning he followed the unusual procedure of remaining pastor tmtil the end of his term. In the rear of the church are several memorials including: I. To Matthew G. Emery (1818-1901) the last Mayor of Washington, and President for 32 years of the Trustees of the church ; 2. To President McKinley. The cost of erection of this church was met by contribu- tions from various Church Conferences throughout the country. The names of the Conferences which contributed are inscribed upon the name plates of the rear pews. The church has a chime of 16 bells. At 456 C St., adjoining the church, John A. Dix lived while Secretary of the Treasury (1860-61.) No. 458 was the residence of Edwin M. Stanton, while practicing law and also while Attorney General under Buchanan. He was still living here when he defended Daniel Sickles, on trial for the murder of Philip Barton Key (p. 188), but moved to H St. just W. of 14th when he became Secretary of War. Diagonally opposite, W. of the Harper Office Building, a modern business house occupies the site of an historic old hotel. In 1826 it was known as Davis' Hotel. Later it became a boardirig house kept by Miss Ann Hamilton and patronized by members of Congress. During the decade 1840-50 many confidential consultations were held there regarding slavery and the work of preparation for the advent of the Republican party. On the eastern lot there was formerly a spring, known as the City Spring, and the city Corporation laid ! wooden pipes for carrying the water to running pumps on ! 6th and 7th Sts., S. of Pennsylvania Ave. When William i Woodward, in 1802, erected his Centre Tavern on the site I now covered by the eastern part of the Metropolitan Hotel i (p. 4), he also purchased the lot with the spring on C St.; I and subsequently both the Metropolitan and National Hotels I depended on this spring for their water supply. It was on 136 RIDER'S WASHINGTON this same lot that Washington's first Public Baths were opened, in 1813. Further west, at the N. W. cor. of 6th and C Sts., formerly stood the old Criitchct House, where Alexander Stephens, Charles Summer, General Scott and Abraham Lincoln used to dine. On the W. side of John Marshall Place, midway between C and D Sts., stands the First Presbyterian Church, a sub- stantial brick structure, the corner-stone of which was laid April loth, 1827. Among the distinguished attendants have been Presidents Jackson, Polk, Pierce and Cleveland ; Vice- President Colfax and General Grant. The Rev. T. DeWitt Talmage, the famous Brooklyn preacher, wi.s once pastor of this church. History. The First Presbyterian church was organized in 1789, and on June 24th its first pastor, the Rev. John Brackenridge was in- stalled. The congregation worshipped first in the carpenter's shop of the White House, and later in the Supreme Court, in the basement of the Capitol. The history of the early years is somewhat obscure. Owing to poor health the pastor was absent much of the time, and the congregation gradually dwindled away. It is believed that for a time they had a house of worship in the square bounded by F and G, loth and iith Sts. Christian Hines in his quaint "Recollections," dating from boyhood, speaks of the "old one-story, round-top, frame meeting- house, where (it is said) Rev. Mr. Brackenridge used to preach." It is a curious fact that when, in 181 1, the church was revived this same Mr. Brackenridge was for a second time called and orHained as pastor. In 1812 the "Little White Church under the Hill," near Delaware Ave. and B St. S. W., was dedicated. In 1827 the present site was secured and the corner-stone of the present structure laid April loth. In 1868 this church received the first charter granted by Congress to any church in the District of Columbia. In the lobby of the church is a portrait bust of the Rev. Byron Sunderland, the most distinguished of the church's many pastors, who closed his long term of service by resigning in 1899, three years before his death. Opposite the church is the site of the home of Carlo Franzoni, one of the first sculptors of the Capitol, who died here 1819. The house, the front of which was elaborately carved with busts ;ind bas-reliefs, survived for many years, but the sculptures were destroyed in enlarging the entrance for business purposes. North of the church, on W. side, the house adjoining the corner was the residence of Rear Admiral Dahlgren for fif- teen years prior to his death in 1870. The corner house is the old Masonic Hall, the corner-stone of which was laid in 1826. It was occupied by the City Post Office for a year after the Blodgett Building was burned in 1836 (p. 142). During 1849- 70 it was the home of Joseph H. Bradley, a prominent lawyer of the District. THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 137 John Marsh-all Place, formerly 4>4 St., terminates at Judiciary Square, a rectangular plot comprising about 14 acres, bounded by 4th and 5th, D and G Sts. Its S. side marks the meeting place of two short Avenues : Indiana Avenue, run- ning S. E. to 1st St., and Louisiana Avenue, running S. W. to the Mall at loth St. Number 458 Louisiana Axe., a few doors W. of John Marshall PI., was. for several years prior to his death in 1846, the home of James Hoban, architect of the White House. Further W., midway between 4^ and 6th Sts., is the site of the second oldest theater in Washington. It was first called the Washington Theater, and later the American The- ater. It must have dated from the early 20's for it was enlarged and improved in 1828. Two inaugural balls are said to have been held in this Hall. Diagonally opposite. N. E. cor. of Louisiana Ave. and 6th St., stands the District Police Court, occupying the site of the old First Unitarian Church attended by Presidents John Quincy Adams and Millard Fillmore. When, in 1878, the congregation moved to their second .church on 14th St. (p. 232) the old edifice was taken over and occupied by the Police Court, until it became too small for the latter's needs, and the present building was erected. This necessitated the demolition of several dwellings, to the E. on the Ave., includ- ing the house in which Daniek Webster spent his last years. On the S. side of the Square, facing John Marshall Place, stands the third oldest of the Government buildings, the venerable City Hall (PI. Ill — E4 — No. 23), known in recent years as the District Court House. It is the one important work designed wholly by George Hadfield, the young English archi- tect so enthusiastically recommended by Benjamin West at the time when Hallett was discharged from his position as super- vising architect of the Capitol. Owing to its severe simplicity, the tendency was formerly to underrate the really artistic pro- portions of City Hall. But critical judgment now recognizes the rare talent that infused so much classic spirit into mere brick and plaster. The central section, with its Ionic portico, is the oldest portion of the structure ; the east wing was finished in 1826 (the year of Hadfield's death) ; the west wing was not com- pleted until 1849. The finished structure has a total frontage of 250 ft. and consists of a basement and two stories, with an elevation of 47 ft. The recessed center has a width of 150 ft., while the wings have a frontage of 50 ft. each, and a depth of 166 ft. I3S RIDER'S WASHINGTON In iS/i the building- was conveyed to, the Federal Gov- ernment, and has since housed, not only the District Courts, but also the offices of the U. S. District Attorney, U. S. Marshal. Register of \\'ills and Recorder of Deeds. The old eastern court-room has been the scene of many historic trials, including those of Dr. Gardiner and Richard' H. White for burning the Treasury Building; Julian May for killing a man in a duel; Daniel E. Sickles for the murder of Philip Barton Key (p. i88), and Charles Guiteau for the assassination of President Garfield. THe building having become through long neglect badly out of repair, underwent in 1917 a thorough renovation. This necessitated the temporary removal of the District Court to the Emery Building, formerly occupied by the Census Bureau, at B and 2d Sts. In the course of repairs the S. -facade or main front, was somewhat remodeled. In front of the Court House stands a marble column, 35 ft- high, surmounted by a full-length marble statue of Lincoln, modeled by Lot Flannery of Washington, said to have been a self-taught sculptor, and once a Lieutenant in the U. S. Army. The statue was unveiled April 15th. 1868, the third anniversary of Lincoln's death. A bill to replace this statue with another is now pending in Congress (Mav. 1922). The District Court of ^Appeals (PI. Ill— E4— Xo. 100), situated immediately X. W. of the old Court House, constitutes the first of a prbjected series of Municipal buildings which will fiank the two sides of Judiciary Sq. It was erected in 1910 from plans by Elliott Woods, assisted b}- W. D. Kneessi and August Eccard. The architectural style is adapted Georgian ; and it is interesting to observe how closely and judiciously the archi- tect has followed Hadfield's work. The whole structure harmonizes with the old City Hall : and the stone work of the two basements, especially in the window arches, is practically identical. The material of the new building is : for base and approaches. Woodstock granite : for upper stories, Bedford Blue Indiana limestone. The main entrance is on the N. facade. The main staircase, on the left, leads up to an im- pressive foyer, from which corridors, to R. and L., give ad- mission to the Judges' Retiring rooms. The Appellate Court Room is in the center, and is windowless. being lighted throug-h the ceiling. When the Court is not in Session the attendants in charge will gladly admit visitors to the Court Room and the Judges' Retiring Rooms. Prior to the erection of the Pension Office, several Inaugural Balls were held in Judiciarv- Square, in temporary THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 139 structures built for the occasion : namely, that of William Henry Harrison, in 1857; the first Inaugural Ball of Lincoln, in 1861; and the second of Grant in 1873. At the outbreak of the Civil War, the Lincoln ball-room was still standing at the corner of 5th and E Sts. ; and was used as an emer- gency hospital for the first wounded soldiers. The Pension Office (PI. Ill— E4). erected in 1883, stands in th^ upper portion of the Square, above the line of F St. It is a huge, ungainh- structure of red brick, notable chiefly for its multitude of windows. It is said to have been adapted from the Famese Palace at Rome. {General M. C. Meiggs, U. S. A., architect. See marble memorial tablet on wall of South entr\-.) Open to the public weekdays, from 9 a. m. to 2 p. m. There is, however, nothing to interest the tourist excepting the big central hall. The Per.sion Office contains the ofnces of the Commissioner of Pensions, who supervises the examination and adjudication of all claims for service in the arm.y or navy rendered wholly prior to Oct. 6, 1917: I claims for bounty-land' warrants based upon services rendered prior to , March 3, 1S55. and claims under the Act of May 22, 1920, providing for the retirement of employes in the classified Civil Service. , The building forms a parallellogram 400x200 ft., sur- rounding a roofed-in Roman cortile. Surmounting the third ' stor}- are four gables forming a cross. Height to cornice, 75 ( ft. ; to central ridge of roof, 149 ft. The cost was approxi- mately $900,000, and i5,ooo,ooo"brick were required in course * of construction. It is completely fire-proof, — a fact which, when repeated to General Sheridan, evoked his historic com- ment, "^^'hat a pit\-!" The one artistic feature of the building is a spirited three- foot terra-cctta bas-relief frieze, extending unbroken around all four sides, and portraying successiveh- the various branches of the Service : the ^larching Infantry-, the Cavalry-, the Boys of the NaA*A' rowing ashore, the Army Supply-wagons, and the Woimded being assisted to the rear. (Designed b}- C. Buberl ; executed by the Boston Terra-cofta Company). The three-foot squares comprising- the frieze are cleverly matched. ' so as to permit of various arrangements and repetitions, thus making it possible to bring a different branch of the service over each of the four central entrances, which are accordinglv named respectivelv: i. , North side. Gate of the Invalids; 2. West 'side. Gate of the Staff; I 3. South side, Gate of the Line; 4. East side. Naval Gate. I In the pendentives of the doorways are symbolic figures, also in terra-cotta: i. (repeated in E. and W. entrances) War, represenied , (on R.) by Mars, with chariot and horses: Minerva (on L.\ fully anned and accompanied by the Owl of Wisdom: 2. (repeated in N. and S. en- , trances) Peace, symbolized by Justice (on R.). with scales: and Truth • (on L.), with torch; beside her are the discarded masks of Tragedy and ' Comedy. 140 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Interior. The vast inner court, 316x116 ft., and ris'ng 120 ft. to roof, is surrounded by arcaded galleries resting on two tiers of imitation marble columns, 152 in number, the lower tier being Doric and the upper Ionic. The floor of the court is now occupied with tiers of drawers, containing the papers of applicants for pensions. The cases on file exceed one million. The work has been so thoroughly systematized that the entire record of any pension case can be furnished within five minutes after inquiry. The Pension Building has been the scene of many in- augural balls, at which no less than 18,000 people have been entertained. The list includes the inaugural balls of President Cleveland, 1885 and 1893 ; Harrison, 1889 ; McKinlev, 1897 and 1901 ; Roosevelt, 1905 ; Taft, 1909. The Pension Bureau Reference Library is of recent origin, estaiblished July 18th, 1910, by the authority of the Commis- sioner of Pensions. It is a reference library for the use of the employees of the Bureau ; but its privileges are extended to any one having business with the Bureau. The site triginally chosen for the Pension Office was on B St., at Louisiana an 1 Ohio Ave.; but this was found to be unsafe, because it consisted in part of filled-in ground of what was formerly the Wash- ington canal. On 5th St., facing the Square, No. 416-18, the Cohimbiaa Building occupies the former site of Trinity Episcopal Church, upon the removal of which in 1851 to its present site (p. 132), the old edifice was taken over by the then newly organized Congregational Church. The latter was short-lived, but for a brief time in 1854, just after the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin, it was the scene of some stirring revivals and anti- slavery demonstrations. No. 420, the Law Department of Hoivard University, erected 1892, contains a large auditorium, known as the W^illiam 11. Evarts Hall. This side of the Square is ooccupied by many law offices. The N. W. cor. of 5th and E Sts. is occupied jointly by the Columbian Title Insurance Co. and the Real Estate Title In- surance Cct. Diagonally opposite, on E St. S. E. cor. of 6th St., is the large brick structure of the Law School of George- town University. The old-fashioned square brick dwelling on the opposite N. W. cor. of 6th St., was formerly the home of Justice Salmon P. Chase, also of Senator William Sprague. who married Kate Chase, daughter of the Chief Justice. Continuing N. on 5th St. we pass, at S. E. cor. of F St., the unpretentious draib brick structure of Wesley Chapel (M. E.), organized in 1823. The original edifice was destroyed by fire, and the present chapel erected about 1856, at a cost THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 141 of $>i6,ooo. Just N. of Judiciary Square, on the E. side of 5th St., between G and H Sts., we may see the short, heavy spire of the German R. C. Church of St. Mary, the only German church of that denomination in the city, and consequently without parochial limitations. The interior is rich but somber, with many memorial windows representing the Saints of the church, grouped in pairs. The principal window in the apse represents the Virgin and Child. Near the entrance is a memorial tablet to Matthias Alig (1803-82), born in Switzerland, the founder and first rector of this church. The present structure, early Gothic, of trap-rock, dates from 1890. Further N., at 6th and G Sts.. stands Adath Israel, the oldest Jewish synagogue in the city, founded in the early fifties by Mannasses Oppenheimer, from Bavaria, one of the eight Jews then in Washington. The present building dates from 1873. VI. The Modern Shopping District a. F Street to the Treasury Building F Street was from very early times down to the last quarter of the 19th century, a fashionable street, and even in the 70's, when President Grant and A. T. Stewart, New York's first "Merchant Prince," prophesied that it was des- tined to become the fashionable shopping street of the Cap- ital, there were few who believed it. Yet to-day from 6th St. to the Treasury Building, with the exception of a few churches, F St. is wholly given over to business, containing many of the leading shops and stores, some of which were formerly conspicuous features on Pennsylvania Ave. Just S. of F St., at No. 522 6th St., is the Washington headquarters of the Women's Christian Temperance Union. No. 614 F St. was formerly the home of Thomas U. Walter, one of the architects of the Capitol. No. 622 F St., the Pacific Building, contains the rooms of the Columbia His- torical Society, an institution organized April 4th. 1804 "^ot the collection, preservation and diffusion of knowledge re- specting the history and topography of the District of Columbia." The Society possesses a valuable specialized library comprising ap- proximately 800 volumes, and 4000 magazines and pamphlets. It is primarily intended for members, but any other students are welcome. Open every Wednesday, 11 A. M. to 4 P. M., from November to May inclusive; at other times by appointment with the Secretary.- At the S.E. cor. of 7th and F Sts. is the Shuhcrt-Garrick Theatre, one of Washington's high-class playhouses (p. 24). 142 RIDER'S WASHINGTON West of 7th St. the north side of F St. is occupied for two squares by the Patent Office, and the S. side to 8th St. by the General Land Office. The United Statees Patent Office (PI. I— Ci), which up to 1917 housed the entire Department of the Interior (p, 213), occupies two city squares, bounded on N. and S. by F and G Sts., and on E. and W. by 7th and 9th Sts. This site was the reservation set aside in L'Enfant's plan for a National Church and Mausoleum. The building is a three-story rectangle, measur- ing 453 ft. E. to W., and 321 ft. N. to S., w'ith an interior quad- rangle about 265 X 135 ft. The style is consistently Doric, imposing by its severe simplicity. There are four massive porticoes. The main one. fronting on F St., opposite the termina- tion of 8th St., is reached by a lofty series of steps, and con- sists of a double row of fluted Doric columns, sixteen in number, six feet in diameter, and thirty-two feet high, raised in sections and flanked by immense pilasters. It is modeled after the portico of the Pantheon at Rome. The ground occupied by the S. W. cor. of this building, at E and 8th Sts., is the site of the historic Blodgett's Hotel, so named from its projector, Samuel Blodgett of Philadelphia, who planned to make it a lottery prize to raise money for building a canal. The hotel was begun July 4th, 1793, from plans by Jai}ies Hoban. The government gave the freestone for the basement story. About $35,000 was expended in putting up the frame and roofing-in. The building, however, was not completed as the lottery scheme failed. Although known by the various names of "Great Hotel," "Lottery Hotel" and "Union Pacific Hotel," it was never used as a hotel. In 1800 a Philadelphia theatrical man named Wingall opened it as the United States Theatre, and presented the first series of theatrical entertain- ments ever given in Washington. The opening night was August 226.. 1800, when Venice Preserved and The Spoiled Child were enacted before an audience of about 150. For the next ten years the main auditorium was used for various entertainments, meetings and relig- ious services; while the rooms of the unfinished upper stories housed the families of foreign artisans employed on the Capitol. In 1810 Blodgett's was purchased by the Government, and from 18 12 to 1836 was occupied by the City Post Office and part of the time by the Post Office Department and Patent Office. When the British captured the city, in 1814, one of the officers ordered a gun to be trained upon this building. It was saved by Dr. William Thornton, at that time in charge of the Patent Office. It is related that Thornton rode up and jumped from his horse in front of the gun, demanding: "Are you Englishmen or Goths and Vandals? This is the Patent Office, the depository of the inventive genius of America, in which the whole civilized world is concerned. Would you destroy it? If so, fire away and let the shot pass through my body!" Owing to the destruction of the Capitol by the British, when Congress was next convened, September 19th, 1814, it occupied Blod- gett's for a brief period. See memorial tablet on S. facade of present building. Another historic site is near the middle of the W. side of the Patent Office, on 7th St. Here, before the northern extension was built, stood two brick buildings occupied by the Government as THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 143 the city branch of the Post Office. In the upper story or one of these houses was established the first office in the world for receiving and dispatching messages by magnetic telegraph. The location is marked by a bronze memorial tablet. The original section of the present building is the south wing with a 270 ft. front on F St., and 70 ft. deep. It was erected in 1837-42 to house the Patent Office when it was still a Bureau of the Department of State. Robert Mills, superintending architect; designs by W. P. Elliott. Mate- rial, freestone from Government quarries at Aquia Creek, Va. In 1849, when the Department oi the Interior was created, the first extension, consisting of the east wing, was authorized, and was begun by Mills, from designs by Thomas U. Walter. Mills was succeeded in 1851 by Edzvard Clark, assistant architect of the Capitol, under whom the east wing was completed in 1855, the west wing in 1859, the north wing in i860 and the north portico in 1868. The new por- tions are all of ]\Iaryland marble on the exterior (inclu'ding basement), and of New England granite on the quadrangle. The building, as originally completed, contained 191 rooms, and cost approximately $2,700,000. Here in 1865 the second Lincoln Inaugural Ball was held. The Patent Office was organized in 1790, when the first patent was taken out by one Samuel Hopkins, July 31st, "for making pot or pearl ashes"; and the second by Joseph Stacey Sampson, August 6th, "for the manufacture of candles." Before the outbreak of the Civil War more than 30,000 patents had been issued; and the war so far stimulated inventive genius that by 1870 the number had risen to 40,000. Todaj' the total number is upward of 900,000 patents; and the earnings of the Office are said to have been far in excess of the, total expenses since its origin, including the cost of buildings. The Patent Office possesses an important Scientific Library, now approximating 95.000 volumes (including books, pamphlets and bound volumes of periodicals). It is strictly a reference library, open daily, except Sunday and Holidays, from 9 A. Al. to 4 130 P. M. The Patent Office Library was practically founded in 1836; but its real history dates from 1852, under the direction of W. W. Turner, its first regularly appointed Librarian, through whose efforts the foreign patent and periodical files were greatly increased, and the scope of the Library broadened. In 1869 the Library was able to boast that it possessed "a complete set of the reports of the British Patent Commissioners — the reports of French Patents are also complete, and those of various other countries are being obtained as rapidly as possible." The Library is entirely dependent upon Congressional approp- riations, which have been gradually increased until at present there is an annual allowance of $2,500. Prior to the erection of the old National Museum, the upper story of the Patent Office, known as the "Model Room," contained, in addition to models of patents, a museum of miscellaneous exhibits, the nucleus of which was the 144 RIDER'S WASHINGTOxN natural history collection brought home in 1842 by the U. S. Naval Exploring Expedition under command of Commodore Charles \Vilkes. Here also were formerly exhibited many of the nation's most valued historical relics, including per- sonal effects of George Washington, and the original Declara- tion of Independence (now in the Library of Congress). The collection was finally transferred to the National Museum (p. 260). South of the Patent Office, occupying the block bounded on E. and W. by 7th and 8th Sts., and on N. and S. bv t and E Sts., is the Old General Land Office Building (PI. I— C2) originally erected for the General and City Post Office. History. The southern or E St. portion was commenced in 1839, and finished by Robert' Mills, architect. Material : marble from New York quarries. In 1842 Congress pur- chased the north half of the square bounded by E St., and in 1855 the extension on that space was completed. T. U. Walter, architect ; Capt. M. C. Meiggs, U. S. Engineers, super- intendent. Material : Alaryland marble. The completed building is Roman Corinthian in style. It measures 204 x 300 ft., and consists of two stories resting on a rustic basement. The interior courtyard measures 95 x 194 ft. The outer facing of the whole building is white marble, that of the court is granite. The columns and pilasters, laid in sections, extend through three stories, supporting the architrave, frieze and cornice. On the 8th St. front is a carriage-w^ay entrance, formerly intended for the reception and delivery of mail. The carving on the keystone of the entrance arch represents Fidelity. The bas-reliefs on the spandrils, winged female figures bearing (N. side) a thunder- bolt, (S. side) a locomotive, symbolize respectively Electricity and Steam. Estimated cost of the entire building, $1,700,000. The General Land Office removed in 1917 to the new Interior Dei>artment Building (p. 213). During the World War Gen. Enoch Crowther, head of the National Selective Draft Board, occupied the old building; and here, after his return from France General Pershing had his headquarters. It is now (1922) occupied by several minor Government bureaus including the Federal Farm Loan Bureau: the U. S Tariff Commission; the Panama Canal: and the International Joint Commission (with jurisdiction ovei- the boundaries between the United States and Canada). At S. W. cor. of F and 8th Sts.. was formerly the home of George Hadfield, an architect of the Capitol. The intersection of 9th and F . Sts., at S.W. cor. of the Patent Office, is the busiest transfer point in Washington of the city's trolley lines. More than half the lines intersect at this point. The N. E. and S. E. corners of 9th and F Sts. are to- day occupied respectively by the old Masonic Temple, and THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 145 the nine-story building of the WashingiC'n Loan and Trust Co., organized 1889. On these two corners there still stood as late as 1859 two hotels: I. the Model House, on the site of the Masonic Temple; and 2. the Herndon House, later called the St. Cloud Hotel, a more pretentious hostelry of substantial brick. W. of the Model House in those days was an open sewer, and beyond the sewer stood the buildings and grounds of old Gonzaga College (p. 362); and on a grade, some distance above the street, stood old St. Patrick's church and graveyard. South on loth St., immediately adjoining the new Metro- politan Theatre, is the historic structure, once *Ford's The- atre (PI. I — ^B2), in which Abraham Lincoln was assassinated on the night of April 14, 1865, while attending a performiance of "Our American Cousin." John Wilkes Booth, an actor, who knew the theatre well, entered the box, shot the President through the head, then leaped to the stage and escaped. He was overtaken, however, while hiding in a barn near Freder- icksburg, Va., and fatally wounded while resisting arrest. This building, now closed to the public, occupies the site of one of the several edifices of the First Baptist Church. When that organization, in 1862, moved into a new building, its former premises were taken over by one James R. Ford (d. January 12th, 1917) and opened on March 19th of that year with "The French Spy," by Lucille Western. The subsequent performances included engagements by: Maggie Mitchell. Edwin Forrest, John McCollough and Laura Keene. Opposite Ford's Theatre is the *House where Lincoln died, No. 516 loth St. It contains at present the Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Museum. History. Into this house, the home of one William Petersen, the wounded President was carried from the theatre a few minutes after 10 o'clock, into the room at the rear end of the entrance hallway. Throughout the night he lay in this room surrounded by his wife and son Robert, his private Secretary, John Hay, Secretaries Stanton. Vyelles and Usher, Atty. -General Speed, Senator Sumner, Dr. Gurley, his pastor, and five physicians. The President remained unconscious to the end. ^^ At 7 A. M. a bulletin^ was issued: "Symptoms of immediate dissolution." and twenty-two minutes later Lincoln died. Secretary Stanton broke the solemn silence with the historic words, "Now he be- longs to the Ages." It was in an adjoining room that Stanton, during the night-long suspense, spent hours dictating orders and preparing an official account which is recognized today as the best condensed history of the assassination. The Oldroyd Collection, which is at present housed here, is the result of a patient collection through fortv years, by Mr. Osborn H. Oldroyd, of miscellaneous L.incolniana, com- prising 3000 exhibits, and consequently of widely varied de- grees of interest and authenticity. For ten ve'ars the col- lection was housed in the old Lincoln homestead in Spring- field, 111. In the early 8o's (so the visitor is told) friction between Mr. Oldroyd and Mr. Robert Lincoln resulted in the former's summary dispossession, and the removal of the collection to Washington. One or two Congres.<;men so far 146 RIDER'S WASHINGTON interested themselves that the building was purchased by the Government. The collection itself, however, is still owned by the Oldroyd family, who occupy the upper stories. jMuseum open every day and evening, "at all hours." Admission 30 cents. The exhibits occupy the four rooms on the ground fioor, and in- clude in addition to the more important relics, which merit special mention: A. over 300 newspapers containing Lincoln's speeches and war papers, and notices of his death and burial: B. 255 funeral ser- mons, addresses and eulogies; C. 253 portraits, including photographs, steel engravings, lithographs, etc.; D. 66 pieces of sheet music published at the time of his death; E. more than a hundred caricatures of Lin- coln's presidential campaigns and administrations. •In the front parlor, between the windows, is shown what purports to be Lincoln's last signature. In this room also is the Family Bible, 100 years old, from which his mother read to him in childhood. It is claimed that the autograph on the cover was written by Lincoln when only nine years old. Between the front and back parlors is a black locust rail, accom- panied by an affida\at attested to by Gov. Oglesby, declaring it to be an original rail split by Lincoln in 1830. The back parlor is interesting mainly for its pictures and other mementoes of the pursuit, capture, trial and execu- tion of the Lincoln conspirators. These exhibits include : a Ford's Theatre hand-bill of The American Cousin, dated April 14th, 1865 ; a reward bill offering $100,000 for the cap- ture of Booth, Harold and Surratt; and 37 portraits of Wilkes Booth. On the S. wall is a series of pictures showing the route followed by Booth in his flight, the houses at which he successively stopped, and the burning bam in which he was shot by Boston Corbett. There are also four photographs of the execution "of four of the conspirators, showing: i. The condemned prisoners on the platform of the gallows with their spiritual advisors; 2. The condemned with ropes adjusted; 3. The springing of the trap; 4. The bodies still hanging after they have been pronounced dead. The N. door opens into the small hall-room (11x22 ft.) in which Lincoln died. The death-bed stood in the N. E. cor., behind the hall door. The walls are hung with framed prints and engravings representing the group around the dying President. Note especially the *Woodcut from Frank Leslie's Weekly. It is claimed that the wallpaper has not been changed since Lin- coln's death; but the pattern differs from that shown in the early pic- tures; and this, coupled with the fact that the building was for maiiv years a rooming-house, makes this claim doubtful. The door at W. end of hall-room opens into a fourth and much larger room, containing: A. Furniture from the Lincoln Homestead, Springfield, 111. (13 pieces), including the cradle in which the Lincoln children were rocked; also the last cook stove used by Mrs. Lincoln in the homestvrad, and the office chair from Lincoln's law office in Spring- field (said to be the chair in which he sat while drafting his first inaugural address); B. A library of upward of 1000 volumes "of I incoln biographies and histories of slavery and the Civil War; C. Portraits THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRlICT 147 and busts of Lincoln, including: i. Portrait from life, by F. B. Car- penter (purporting to have been taken approximately at the time of the Gettysburg Address, November 19th, 1864); 2. Bust from life, by Thomas Jones, 1860-61; 3. Plaster bust, by Leonard W. Folk, Chicago, i860. In the adjoining house, No. 518 loth St., the Spanish War Veterans' Association was established Alay i/th, 1899. North of F St., on E. side of loth St., stands St. Pat- rick's Church (R. C.) (PI. I— Bi), a Norman Gothic struc- ture built mainly of trap rock, architecturally one of the most impressive church edifices in the city. History. On April loth, 1794, Father Anthony Caffery purchased lots No. 5 "and 6 in the original plot bounded by 9th and loth, F and G Sts., for which he paid £80 sterling. These lots were deeded to Bishop Carroll in 1804. Later the church obtained, by purchase or gift, addi- tional lots from No. 7 to 15 inclusive. Father Caffery was succeeded by Father William Matthews, the first native born American to be raised to the priesthood in the United States, and remembered as the "Parochial Patriot of Washington City." He was the parochial priest of the whole city; President of Georgetown College during a crucial period of its existence (p. 467). He built the first frame church, and later replaced it with a brick one, about 1808, at the corner of loth and F Sts., known as Old St. Patrick's. He also laid the foundation of Gonzaga College (p. 36^), and founded in 1 83 1 St. Vincent's Female Orphan Asyhim, (under care of the Sisters of Charity) which fof years occupied the site of the present Woodward & Lothrop store, and was later removed to the estate of Mrs. Kate Chase Sprague, near Eckington (PL III — C5). Father Matthews remained- pastor of St. Patrick's for nearly half a century (1802-54), and numbered among his parishioners Chief Justice Roger B. Taney, Major L'Enfant, James Hoban, architect of the White House, and Robert Brent, first Mayor of Washington. This first brick church remained until the early seventies, when under the zealous administration of the Rev. Jacob Ambrose Walters (rector 1854-94) plans were made for a new stone church, the present site was chosen, and the corner-stone laid November 3d, 1872. Father Walters was followed by the Rev. John Lloyd, during whose rectorship the churcih was decorated. The fine line of parochial buildings occupy- ing most of the block on G St. were added during the administration of the Rev. Dennis J. Spofford (1901-08). Originally the parish of St. Patrick's included the entire city. The first subdivision was into eight parishes, namely: i. St. Patrick's; 2. St. Peter's (p. 411); 3. St. Matthew's Op. 234); 4. St. Mary's (German) (p. 141); 5. St. Aloysius' (p. 362); 6. St. Stephen's; 7. Immaculate Conception; 8, St. Joseph's (p. 365). The site of St. Patrick's was originally a part of the Tommy Burnes farm; and directly where the church now stands there was, until as late as 1810, a highly prized spring of water, known first as the Burnes spring, and later as St. Patrick's spring. Here on summer evenings the Burnes family used to gather under the great oaks and amuse themselves playing games and swinging from the branches. The church is open daily until after sunset. Note the interesting Norman French gargoyles and the variegated marble columns of the central portal. The interior is dig- nified but not ornate. There are a number of fine windows (mostly memorials), by Meyer and Bros., of Munich. The subjects are as follows: 148 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Transept and nave: Twelve scenes from the life of Christ. Nori'h transept (E. to W.) ^ i- The Annunciation; 2. Mary's Visit to Elizabeth; Nave, N. side: 3. Adoration of the Magi; 4. Presentation in the Temple; 5. Christ in Joseph's Carpenter Shop ; 6. Christ in the Temple ; Nave, S. side (W. to E.) : 7. Marriage at Cana; 8. "Suffer Little Children to Come Unto Me" (Mark x, 14) ; 9. The Lajt Supper; 10. "If it be possible let this cup pass from me" (Matthew xxvi, 39) ; South Transept: 11. The Resurrec- tion ; 12. The Sermon on the Mount. The seven windows in the Apse contain scenes from the life of St. Patrick, beginning with the Annunciation by Angels of his Mission; and closing with the scene of the Saint's death. Note especially the altar in Norman Gothic style, harmonizing with the architecture of the church, and constructed of American statuary marble and, Mexican onyx, inlaid with panels of Carrara marble carved in Florence. The largest of these panels represents the Last Supper. At the N. W. cor. of the church, on L. of entrance, is a recently remodeled Baptistry containing a Pieta {Edward Berge, Baltimore, sculptor). On the walls of the baptistr> is a series of mural paintings by Gabrielle Clements (also of Baltimore) : immediately behind the Pieta are depicted the Cross and Instruments of Crucifixion ; on R. are Joseph of Aramathea and Nicodemus; on L. are St. John and Mary Magdalene. IVoodzvard & Lothrop, the leading department store of Washington, stands on the N. side of F St., partly on the former site of St. Vincent's Orphanage, and occupies almost the entire square included between loth and nth and G Sts. The N. E. cor. of F and 13th Sts. is the site of the first United States Branch Bank, established in 1801. North on 13th St., No. 613, is the Na'Amial Metropolitan Bank, organ- ized January 13th, 1914. West on F St., No. 1331, is the site of the former home of Henry R. Schoolcraft, the Ethnologist. Here also, at an earlier date, lived William Thornton, first architect of the Capitol. The Adams Building, Nos. 1333-35, immediately adjoining on the W., takes its name from the historic mansion which formerly stood on this site, occupied by John Quincy Adams while Secretary of State. The Adams hou.se was a three-story structure of red brick, and was originally occupied by James Madison, who continued to reside there until he became President. Subsequently it was taken over by Madison's brother-in-law, Richard Cutts, who lived there until he moved into his new residence on H St. and Lafayette Sq., now the Cosmos Club (p 188). Adams occuiiied it during 1821-25. THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 149 Diagonally opposite, at Nos. 1336-38, is the site of a house occupied by Aaron Burr. At the S. E. cor. of F and 14th Sts., stands the New Ebbitt House, occupying in part the site and perpetuating the name of the historic old Ebbkt House, first established as a hotel in 1865. The history of the older Ebbitt House goes back much farther thaw this. The building consisted of four houses, the oldest of which was the one adjoining the corner, built about 1800, by one David Craufurd, who acquired the property in 1798. The corner house was erected in 1836 by one Bushrod Washington Reed, a grocer, who for many years occupied the first Hoor. Prior to 1856 these buildings were known as The Frenchman's Hotel. In 1856 the hotel was bought by William E. Efbbitt, and was run as a boarding-house by Mr. and Mrs. Ebbitt, after whom the present hotel is still called. The old Ebbitt House was the home of President William McKinley when a member of Congress; and als.ii of the famous journalist, Ben Perley Poore, who died here after a residence of more than twenty years. The basement story was for many years occupied by newspaper- men, and -known as "Newspaper Row." Opposite, at S. W. cor. of 14th St.. now occupied by the northern proportion of the Neiv JVillayd (p. 3). former- ly stood IVillard's Hall, a popular place of entertainment. Here was given the first regular course of lectures ever offered in Washington, the list of lecturers including; George Vanderhoff, E. P. Whipple, and Phineas T. Barnum, the famous Showman. At 1424 F St. is Lowdermilk's Old Book Store, "veritable temple of Americana, venerable and dear to generations of literary browsers" {Paul Wilstach). It is believed to occupy approximately the site of the home of Secretary McLane when, in 1832, Washington Irving, recently returned from Spain, made it his headquarters during a three-months' visit to the Capital. The S. E. cor. of F and 15th Sts., facing the Treasury Building, is occupied by the northern fa(:ade of the newly erected Washington Hotel (p. ). b. The Section Immediately North of F Street Starting from 9th St., the eastern end of the section included between G and I Sts., is of comparatively little interest. Further west, however, it already bids fair to rival F St. in the quality of its shops. No. 713 9th St., between G and H Sts., marks the site of a former home of Alexander R. Shepherd, Governor of the District of Columbia, 1873-74 (p. ). On the S. side of H St., between 9th and loth Sts., is the Laboratory Building of the Medical Department of Georgetown University. The building occupies the site of the original church edifice of the P. E. Church of the Ascen- sion, built through the generosity of John P. Van Ness. The Van Ness mausoleum, now in Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 437), formerly stood in the old churchyard. 150 RIDER'S WASHINGTON One block S. on G St., cor. of loth St., is the site of Carroll Hall, where Charles Dickens gave his readings. Two blocks W., on the N. side of G St., No. 1205 marks the former home of William Douglas O'Connor, author of Harrington and The Good Gray Poet. North on 12th St., at No. 812, the house is still standing in which George S. Boutwell, Secre- tary of the Treasury, and John A. Logan, while Senator from Illinois, resided.* In 1828 Count Charles J. Denmon, the French Minister, invested in this square, first acquiring the five lots extending on H St. from 13th to the center of the square. Subsequently he acquired nearly half the square. On lots 3, 4 and 5 were erected three brick resi- dences, of which the central one became the official home of the French Legation. After 1835 these houses were owned by Commodores W. B. Kenvon, Granville S. Cooper and S. S. Gouverneur, and Surgeon H. S. Haskell, all of the U. S. N. One block S., at the N.E. cor. of G St., is the Colorado Building, occupying the original site of the Foundry (M. E.) church. The P. E. Church of the Epiphany (organized 1842). on the N. side of G St., midway between 13th and 14th Sts.. is externally an unpretentious Gothic structure, the oldest por- tion of which dates from 1844. The structure was enlarged in 1857, remodeled in 1874 and again altered in 1890; the latter time under the supervision of Edzvard J. Neville-Stent. It is now (1922) undergoing extensive repairs. During the Civil War this church served for six months as a hospital for the wounded. It has numbered among its parishioners Jefferson Davis. Edwin M. Stanton, Chief Jus- tice Waite. ex-Secretary John Sherman, Lord Ashburton, Lord Napier, Sir Edward Thornton, Justice Field and Sec- retary Bayard. By an interesting coincidence the Jefferson Davis' pew was the one later occupied by Mr. Stanton, then Secretary of War. The church is open daily and merits a visit. Note espe- cially, at N. W. cor., a semi-circular alcove serving as the Baptistry, wainscoted with pink Numidian marble. The font rests upon a pavement of Roman mosaic quaintly depicting a pool with conventionalized fishes. The three bays contain a pictorial frieze, by Hemming of London, m three divisions : I. The Infant Jesus in Simeon's Arms; 2. His Baptism in the Jordan ; 3. Jesus Blessing little Children. Only a few memorial windows are yet in place. The most notable is the Epiphany Window in the chancel, by Henry Holliday of London, the theme of which is the two- fold idea. Qirist manifested at once to the Jewish Shepherds and to the Wise Men from the Gentile world. THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 151 The three memorial windows in the nave are : i. The Geisy Window, showing the Savior on the Mount teaching His Disciples ; 2. The Fisher Window, in two panels : a. The Lord as the Good Shepherd; b. The Lord as the Light of the World; 3. (from the Tiifany Studios), a richly colored window in two panels, showing the Sea of Galilee and the Garden of Gethsemene. c. The Section Between F Street and Pennsylvania Avenue The triangular district having Judiciary Square for its base, and F St. and Pennsylvania Ave. for its two longer sides, is still a sort of back-water, in which the currents of retail business have made feeble headway. Seventh St., to be sure, is fairly well Ijned with small shops of the cheaper sort; and 9th St. is given over mainly to moving-picture houses, foreign restaurants, dairy lunches, shooting galleries, and various catch-penny devices. But the rest of the district is sordid and shabby, and interesting chiefly for associations jhalf a century old. I South on E. side of 6th St., near the Police (p. 137), (which occupies the former site of the Unitarian church, was the home of Charles Bulfinch, one of the early architects of Ithe Capitol. I On the S. side of E St., of 6th St., is the present |Washington home of the Knights of Columbus. The build- ing which they occupy was formerly a Baptist church, and was used during the Civil War as a military hospital. Just beyond, No. 618, is the house in which John C. Calhoun resided while Secretary of War and Vice-President (1817-29). On E. side of 7th St.. midway between D and E Sts., stands the District Odd Fellozvs Hall. The old building, long a local landmark, was demolished in May, 1917. The new hall is of Indiana limestone, with a frontage of yy ft. ,'J(JV. S. Plager, architect). j Directly opposite, No. 427 7th St. occupies the former site of the office of the National Era, in which Uncle Toms ^Cabin was originally published during 1851-52. j Adjoining the S.E. cor. of 7th and D Sts. formerly stood a row of five houses known as Blagden's Rozv, erected ip 1852 by one Thomas Blagden. Three of these houses were occupied respectively by Senator Robert Toombs, of Deorgia, Chief Justice Taney and Marston of Pennsylvania. Diagonally opposite, on N.W. cor. was the office of the National Intelligencer. ,. The N.E. cor. of 8th and D Sts. is the site of the old if^ranklin Inn, a popular hostelry in the early 30's, kept by 152 RIDER'S WASHINGTON one James Kennedy. At the S.W. cor. of gth and E Sts. is the site of a still older hotel, the Centre House Inn, opened in 1804. One square N. on gth St.. at N.W. cor. of E St., is the site of the residence of Joseph Gales, Jr. (about 1822- 30), one of the editors of the National Intelligencer. Diagonally opposite, at No. 918 E St., was one of the many Congressional "messes." where James Buchanan resided b*e- fore he became president. WASHINGTON NORTHWEST— THE RESIDENTIAL SECTION (From the Executive Grounds to Rock Creek) I. Seventeenth Street South a. Seventeenth Street from Pennsylvania Avenue to Potomac Park The six short blocks on 17th St., betw. Penns3lvania Ave. and B St., offer more separate attractions of keen interest to visitors than any other equivalent extent of street or avenue in Washington ; for they include the Corcoran Art Gallery, the National Headquarters of the American Red Cross, the National D. A. R. Building and the Pan-American Union. On L. the State, War and Navy Building (p. 126), ex- tends southward to New York Ave. Opposite, at N. VY. cor. of F St., is the Winder Building, erected in 1848 by W. H. [Winder, and purchased by the Government in 1854. It has ■been used in various capacities by the War Department, and at present houses the U. S. Bureau of Efficiency. i The duties of this Bureau are to establish and maintain the system I of efficiency ratings of the Executive Departments, and to investigate i the dupliciation of w^ork, and the methods of business in the various I branches of the Government service. ( The opposite cor. of F St. is the site of General Grant's headquarters in 1865. West of F St., No. 1724, is the Civil \ Service Commission. I This Commission, organized March 9, 1883, under an Act "to regulate and improve the Civil Service of the United States," consi-ts of three Commissioners, of whom not more than two may be adherents I of the same political party. Civil Service examinations are held in all I the principal cities of the country, through approximately 3000 local \\ boards. On July 31, 1921, the number of officers and employees in the I j executive Civil Service was 597,482. '' At the S. W. cor. of 17th St. and New York Ave. is the \ Corcoran Art Gallery (see p. i/i). Opposite, extending- south- j ward to B St. is the President's Park, or Executive Grounds. 'On the ellipse, occupying the centre of these grounds, are four 'baseball diamonds, used by various amateur leagues in the District. Near the upper margin of the ellipse, directly opposite the S. curve of the White House grounds is the — Millet-Butt Memorial Fountain, It consists of a simple shaft rising from a basin and bearing the following inscrip- tion: "In memory of Francis Davis Millet (1846-1912) and 'Archibald Willingham Butt (1865-1912), this monument has 154 RIDER'S WASHINGTON been erected by their friends with the sanction of Congress." M^illet, the well-known artist and author, was a drummer-boy in the Civil War. Captain Butt was aide to Presidents Roosevelt and Taft. They both lost their lives on the ill- fated White Star liner Titanic, lost April 15th, 1912. The sculptured figures on E. and W. sides of the central shaft symbolize respectively Art and Chivalry, the latter in allusion to Captain Butt's conspicuous part in saving "women and children first." The architect of the Memorial was Thomas Hastings; sculptor, Daniel Chester French. b. The American Red Cross Building The National Headquarters of the American Red Cross (PI. II— C5). on 17th St., betw. D and E Sts., is a classic white marble structure of monumental character, the main fagade being broken by Corinthian pilasters rising through two stories, and supporting a massive cornice, above which rises a third or attic story. At each end, and on the main eastern front, supporting the entrance portico, are colonnades O'f stateh^ Corinthian columns. Trowbridge & Livingston, architects. The idea of raising a memorial to the devoted women of the Civil War Sanitary Commission (forerunner of the American Red Cross) was first conceived by Alajor-General Barlow, whose wife died in 1864 from typhus contracted while nursing- the wounded. It was through the efforts of Capt. James A. Scrymser, a comrade-in-arms of Major-Gen. Barlow, with the energetic co-operation of Miss Mabel T. Boardman, that the memorial was finally achieved. It was authorized by Act of Congress in Oct., 1913, on condition that it should cost not less than $700,000, of which sum $400,000 was to be raised by private contribution. The corner-stone was laid in March, 1915, and the dedicatory exercises took place in May, 1917- Hours. The ibuilding is open to visitors week days from 9 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; Sundays, 11 a. m. to 4 p. m. Upon entering the building the visitor notes above landing of main stairway a marble tablet hearing the following .inscription : A Memorial Built by the Government of the United States and Patriotic Citizens To the Women of the North And the Women of the South Held in Loving Memory By a Now United Country That their Labors to Mitigate the Suffering of The Sick and Wounded in War may be Forever Perpetuated This Building is Dedicated to the Serv-ice of The American Red Cross. The three windows in the wall above this tablet are surmounted by broad ledges containing three symbolic busts : Faith, Hope and Charity, executed 'by Hiram Pozvers. On the D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL 155 second floor is a ispacious Assembly Room, finished in the Colonial style, the interior furnishings being contributed by Mrs, Adolphus Busch, of St. Louis. In the N. wall, opposite entrance door, is a three-panel memorial window of favrile glass, typifying "The Ministry to the Sick and Wounded through Sacrifice." Designed by Louis C. Tiffany, after sug- gestions by Elihu Root and Miss Mabel Boardman. The cost was $10,000, half of which- was paid by the Women's Relief Corps of the D. A. R., and the other half by the United Daughters of the Confederacy. 1 Central Panel (joint gift of the two Oirganizations) : A I scene from the days of the Crusades, showing an army of gallant Knights riding to battle with spears and banners. In the foreground is a standard bearer carrying a large white flag with the Red Cross emblem. Near him a faithful comrade is supporting a wounded warrior who has fallen from his horse. West Panel (gift of Women of the North) : St. Filomena, t famed for her powers of healing, stands surrounded by her 'handmaids symibolizing Virtues. She is rofced in gray and her '.hands rest upon a shield decorated with the Red Cross. Hope ' follows bearing a banner marked with an anchor, Mercy I carrying a flagon of wine, Faith bearing a torch, and Charity ia basket oif fruit. I East Panel (gift of Women of the South) : The central I figure is Una, from Spencer's "Faerie Queen," personification lof fortitude, her apron overflowing with roses, emblematic of good deeds. Her three attendants bear respectively a Cross, a Lamp of Wisdom and a White Banner on which gleams a Golden Heart. I Opposite the Assembly Hall, in the S. Transcept, hangs a painting by Luis Mora, entitled "Thine is the Glory." The picture was based upon a composite photograph, by Major |j. G. Kitchell, U. iS. A., of several hundred Red Cross workers in the World War. In the basement is a Museum, established as a memorial to the services of the Red Cross workers in the \\'orld War, ] which was opened in Sept., 1919. It contains a series of miniature models, including the famous "Tent City" in Paris ; the first Emergency Canteen opened for refugees returning to the devastated area of France; a Surgical Dressings' Work- room, etc. Lc. D. A. R. Memorial Contnnental Hall ^Memorial Continental Hall (PI. II— C5), the head- uarters of the National Society of the Daughfcrs of the 156 RIDER'S WASHINGTON American Revolution, is situated at the N. W. cor. of 17th and D Sts., midwa}- between the Pan-American Union and the American Red Cross Building. It is an imposing structure of white Vermont marble, designed on the classic order of architecture prevalent in colonial times. Edivard P. Casey, architect. History. The Society of the Daughters of the American Revolu- tion dates from October nth, 1890, when its original eighteen members met in Washington to organize it. At the expiration of the first year 816 persons, constituting the Charter Members, had been admitted. On February 20th, 1896, the Society was incorporated by Act of Congress, which required that it should file an annual report with the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, and permitted it to deposit, either in that Institution or in the National Museum, its collection of historical material. During its first twenty-five years the Society in- creased to a membership of more than 114,000, with upward of 1430 Chapters, exclusive of those in Cuba, Mexico and the Philippines. The first practical step toward the erection of the Memorial Con- tinental Hall dates from June 4th, 1902, when the building committee voted to purchase the present site, formerly occupied by the city resi- dence of Captain Thomas Carberry, Mayor of Washington during 1822-24. In January, 1904, Mr. Casey's plans were accepted, and on April 19th of that same year the cornerstone was laid with Masonic rites, the gavel used being the historic one used by Washington for laying the cornerstone of the Capitol. The work was pushed so rapidly that the central portion of the building was sufficiently ad- vanced by April, 1905, to allow the fourteenth Continental Congress to be held 'there. The whole building was practically completed by the spring of 1907, and the greater part of the interior decorations, furni- ture and window hangings were in iplaqe by 19 10. In 1914 began the purchase of additional ground back of the Hall; and the society now owns practically the entire block bounded by 17th, i8th, C and D Sts. When war was declared this ground was offered to the Government, and was used for the offices of the National Council of Defense. On Nov. 12, 1921, the first plenary meeting of the Conference on the Limitation of Armament, as well as the closing meeting three months later, were held in the Memorial Continental Hall. The flag- staff' penholder made of native wood from 28 states and territories, with which Secretary Hughes signed the treaty is preserved in the society's museum. The Hall is a rectangular structure consisting of a basement, two stories and an attic. It has corner pavilions and two notable porticoes. The larger one, occupying the centre of the main, or eastern fagade, rises through the two main stories, is supported by sixteen massive drum columns on the Ionic order, and surmounted by a pediment. The four columns on the N. and S. sides respectively are grouped in pairs, leaving a sufificient central space for a driveway. The second, or memorial portico, projects from the S. fagade and is semi-circular in form. It rests upon a spacious marble terrace, to which a stairway ascends. Like the east portico, it rises throughout the main superstructure, and is supported upon thirteen monolithic, fluted. Ionic columns, which were the gift respectively of either the Society Chapters, or the D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL 157 Legislatures of the thirteen original states, and stand in the order in which these states entered the Union, namely : I. Delaware; 2. Pennsylvania; 3. New Jersey; 4. Georgia; 5. Connecticut; 6. Massachusetts; 7. Maryland; 8. South Car- olina; 9. New Hampshire; 10. Virginia; 11. New York; 12. North Carolina; 13. Rhode Island. At the main entrance are three pairs of memorial bronze doors, the central pair being in memory of the Society's Founders and Charter Members, presented by Mrs. Francis Berger Moran, while the N. and S. doors were respectively the gifts of the Society's Connecticut and Massachusetts mem- bers. These doors admit the visitor directly into : — The Entrance Hall. This is a spacious parallelogram whose white marble walls are divided into panels by ten pairs of Ionic, fluted pilasters. In the centre of the inlaid marble floor is sunken the coat-of-arms of Pennsylvania in bronze, the Entrance Hall being the gift of the Chapters of that state. The sole furnishings and decorations in this cham- ber are two benches and four chairs, upholstered in green leather, a fine old hall clock and a number of marl)le busts. A few of the latter are on pedestals arranged along the wall, and include: i. Martha Washington; 2. Oliver EUsv/orth ; 3. Thomas Jefferson; 4. Benjamin Franklin; 5. Afrs. Mary Hammond Washington, the first "real daughter." Ten other busts occupy the circular niches in the panels forming the frieze. These, with the organizations presenting them, are as follows: I. George Washington (D. A. R., Washington State) ; 2. John Hancock (John Hancock Chapter, Mass.) ; 3. Edward Hand (D. A. R., Kan.) ; 4. Isaac Shelbv (D. A. R., Ky.) ; 5. James Edward Oglethorpe (D. A. R., Ga.) ; 6. John Adams (John Adams Chapter, Mass.) ; 7. Ethan Allen (D. A. R., Vt.) ; 8. John Stark (D. A. R., N. H.) ; 9. George Clinton (N. Y. C. Chapter, N. Y.) ; 10. Nathan |Hale (D. A. R., Conn.). On the W. side of the Entrance Hall, facing the main entrance, are the doorways opening into the Auditorium, which rises throughout the height of the building, and is ilighted bv a ground-glass ceiling, divided into twenty-five panels. The Auditorium contains three large galleries on the N., E. and S. sides respectively, and has a seating capac- ity of approximately 2000. All the furnishings of the Audi- torium, including the platform, boxes and rest-rooms, are the several gifts of Chapters and individuals, the complete list bf which may be found in the Society's Handbook. (For sale m the Entrance Hall, price 25 cents.) Note especially the |large tables, one of which is a facsimile of the historic" table 158 RIDER'S WASHINGTON on which the Declaration of Independence was signed ; the other is of Hawaiian Koa wood, the gift of the Aloha Chap- ter, Honolulu. On the west wall of the Auditorium, to L. and R. of the platform respectively, hang two paintings : i. Martha Wash- ington, by EUphalet F. Andrcn's; 2. Washington on Dorches- ter Heights, by Darius Cobb. It is said that the artist received his inspiration from reading a letter written by Washington to Lee, describing the heavy sense of responsibility which weighed upon him as he stood on those heights at daybreak, watching the havoc wrought upon the British fleet by the night's storm. This picture was presented as a memorial to Mary A. Livermore in fulfillment of her expressed desire that it should be given to the Society. Hanging from the cornice of the Auditorium are fort>'- eight flags, twelve on each of the four sides, representing the several states of the Union and arranged in the order in which the states ratified the Constitution, from Delaware, 1787, to Arizona, 1912, During the week of the annual Continental Congress there "is also hung, suspended • from the ceiling, the Betsy Ross flag, consisting of a circle of thirteen stars on a field of blue (given by the Flag House Chapter, Philadelphia, Pa.). In the side walls of the Auditorium are ten pairs of slid- ing mahogany doors, all of them memorials, those on the N. side opening into the Library; and those on the S. side open- ing into the Museum. The main doorways, however, to the library and museum open respectively from the N. and S. corridors, which branch off R. and L. from the Entrance Hall. The Library began from a nucleus of 125 volumes, and was officially recognized as part of the Society's working equipment in 1896, when the office of Librarian General was created. The collection now numbers upward of 11,000 titles, and is strong in American history, with special refer- ence to local and family histories. A collection of works on Georgia, to be known as the Emily Hcndrce Park Memorial, i was presented by the Georgia Chapters of the Society, to- | gether with a bronze bas-relief portrait of Airs. Park, State j Regent of Georgia, 1899-1902, and Vice-President General. 1904-07. The furnishings of the Library, including the steel stacks, were the gift of the Mary Washington Chapter, "the first organized and the largest in the District of Columbia." Among objects of special interest in the Library are: i. Portrait of Mary S. Lockwood, one of the founders (author of Historic Homes of W^ashington, and successively Historian General, Librarian General and Chaplain General of the D. A. R.), painted by Aline E. Solomons, a Washington artist, and another former Librarian General; 2. A replica of Houdon's Washing ' D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL 159 ton, the gift of Miss E. B. Johnston, a former Historian General; 3. An arm-chair from the former Dolly Madison House, now the Cosmos Club (p. i88) ; 4. Portrait of Thomas McKeau, a Signer of the Declaration of Independence, together with an old divan from his home. The Museum occupying on the South* side of the Audi- torium a position corresponding to that of the Library on the North, and opening upon the Memorial Portico, was given by the N. Y. C. Chapter, which also gave most of the furnishings, including five exhibition cases, and the window draperies of lace and old-rose damask. Among the exhibits contained in the Museum are: two tapestries, the larger of which, "The Conqueror's Return," dates from the i6th century, while the other, portraying the "Last Supper," was made in 1770; a model of the frigate Constitution; a colonial mirror, from near Hartford, Connecticut, where it is said to have lain buried for eight years at the time of the Revolution; and two quaint rush-bottomed chairs, brought to America in the Mayflower. The principal Administrative Offices (with the excep- tion of the Treasurer's and jRegistrar's offices, which are in the rear) are situated on the main front of the building, and open respectively on the North and South Corridors, The Business Office, the gift of the Missouri Chapters, is situated immediately N. of the Entrance Hall. On the walls are a portrait of Mrs. John R. Walker, first Vice-President General of Missouri ; and a bronze tab- let commemorating the famous Pony Express, which origi- nated in St. Joseph, and was appropriately presented by the St. Joseph Chapter. The Office of the Historian General was the gift of the Ohio Chapters, including the wall-cov- ering of old-gold damask, and the window and door draperies Df royal-blue velvet. The Office of the Registrar General was the gift of the Iowa Chapters collectively, while the fur- lishings were severally presented by the Rose Standish, Abi- a:ail Adams, Council Bluffs and other Chapters. The Office of the Treasurer General, given by the Maryland Chapters, contains several interesting pictures, including: i. portrait bf Samuel Chase, a Signer of the Declaration of Indepen- dence; 2. portrait of Mrs. A. L. Knott, founder of the D. A. R. \n Maryland; 3 portrait of Thomas Johnson, first Gov- ernor of Maryland, by Waldeniar F. Dicterich (b. 1876), from Johnson Family Group, by Charles Wilson Pcale. The idjoining Treasurer General's Private Office is the gift of Tennessee, and contains a portrait of Andrew Jackson, framed h hickory; also a painting representing "The Hermitage and Tomb of President Jackson." The Office of the Organiz- ing Secretary General, inclusive of all furnishings, was he gift of the Illinois Chapters. Note especially the quaint llJesign of the chairs, with brocaded green hair-cloth seats. V U i6o RIDER'S WASHINGTON This room contains a portrait of George Rogers Clark, a bronze statuette of Clark, and a candlestand which once be- longed to William Penn. The Reception Room was appro- priately given by the District of Columbia Chapters. It contains a portrait of Miss Mary Desha, a founder of the Society, by Aline E. Solomons; a picture of "A Visit of Washington to Monticello," and a pen-and-ink drawing of "Washington in the Heart of His Country." Adjoining the elevator in the South Corridor, is a bronze tablet designed by Mrs. Sally James Farnham, of New York, and inscribed as follows : "This elevator was given in memory of Josiah Bartlett, Signer of the Declaration of Independence, and Mary Bartlett, his wife, by one of their descendants." This tablet also contains a bas-relief reproduction of Trumbull's portrait of Josiah Bartlett, and of the latter's home in Kingston, N. H. Another bronze tablet in the Cor- ridor commemorates the "Heroes of the Independence." The South and North Main Staircases are respectively the gift of the Chapters of Minnesota, and of the Fort Greene Chapter, Brooklyn, N. Y. The latter is a Memorial to Mrs. S. V. White, whose tireless efforts on behalf of the Prison- ship Martyrs' Monument are commemorated by a tablet bear- ing bas-relief presentment of the monument, at the first turn of the stairs. Second Story. The most important room on this floor is the National Board Room, the gift of the Connecticut Daughters of the American Revolution and for that reason sometimes called the "Connecticut Room." The visitor should note especially the spacious mahogany table, around which the Board holds its meetings ; the twenty-one carved chairs, thirteen of which bear the coats-of-arms of the original thir- teen states ; the President General's chair, being a facsimile of Washington's chair in Independence Hall, used by him during the Constitutional Convention; the blue satin draperies bearing the state arms of Connecticut embroidered in. gold ;j the rug especially woven abroad with an oak-leaf border designi; typical of Connecticut's "Charter Oak"; and lastly the lace window curtains, consisting of a star-and-stripe pattern, also designed and woven expressly for this room. Other rooms on this floor include: i. The President' General's Reception Room, the gift of Alabama Chapters, and containing, among other objects, a portrait of Mrs. T. Morgan Smith, former State Regent of Alabama ; and ai carved chair from Belle Mina, residence of Thomas Bibb first Governor of that State. 2. Office of the President] D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL i6i General, gift of Indiana Chapters, containing portraits of Mrs. Donald McLean, President General, 1905-09, and of Mrs. Cornelia Cole Fairbanks, who presided over the cere- monies attending the laying of the cornerstone of Memorial Continental Hall, and also presided over the first Continental Congress held therein. 3. Office of the Recording Secre- tary General, gift of New York Chapters. Among the relics here preserved are a mahogany folding table on which George and Martha Washington took supper (its authenticity being vouched for by two framed affidavits) ; also a framed original autograph poem by Dolly Madison, dated 1848. 4. Office of the Corresponding Secretary General, gift of the Texas Chapters. 5. Certificate Room, given by the Massa- chusetts Chapters. This room contains numerous relics, including a chair from the Josiah Quincy Mansion, a table which had been in the Warren family for many generations, an antique clock, presented by the Boston Tea Party Chapter, and a copy of "America" in the author's handwriting. 6. Office of the Assistant Historian General (California Chapters). On the walls of this room are several interest- ing pictures, including the "Mission of Dolores of St. Francis Assisi," by Alice B. Crittenden (b. i860) ; "Springtime at San Juan Capistrano Mission"; and three framed groups of pic- tures (six in each) of California Missions, especially valu- able since several of these Missions have ceased to exist; also a marble bas-relief panel, "California, and the National Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution," by Julia Bracken Wendt. Note also the frieze of California pop- pies, designed especially for this room. 8. Committee Room (New Jersey Chapters). This room is notable chiefly for its unique furniture and woodwork, all of which was made from the oaken timbers of the British frigate Augusta, sunk during the Battle of Red Bank, N. J., October 23d, 1777, where it lay for more than a century in the waters of the Delaware River, mellowing to its present varied shades of silver-gray. On the walls hang portraits of the five Signers of Declaration of Independence for New Jersey: i. Richard Stockton, after original by Sully; 2. President Witherspoon, copy of original at Princeton University; 3. Abraham Clark; 4. John Hart, and 5. Francis Hopkinson, after original in Independence Hall, Philadelphia. Third Floor. The chief attraction on this floor is the Banquet Hall, finished throughout in blue and white, which are the National Society's colors. The furniture is of mahog- any, upholstered in hair-cloth of a somewhat darker blue. i62 RIDER'S WASHINGTON "Each article, dining-tables, side-tables, side-board, chairs, silver, china, and even the smallest article in the fire-place, have been the tribute of Chapters and individuals throughout the Society, to this Memorial Room." (The contributing Chapters and individuals numl>er together 79.) The other rooms on this floor include: i. The Commit- tee Room, gift of the Maine Chapters. Interesting details: a. Pine-cone pattern rug, green and brown, product of a spe- cial industry of Cranberry Island, off the coast of Maine; b. Mantel, removed from a Washington house formerly occu- pied by Henry Clay ; c. Mahogany pedestal and case, includ- ing ceiling electric lamp, from Battleship Maine (sunk in Havana Harbor), presented by the Navy Department. 2. Room of the Children of the American Revolution. This memorial room and its furnishings were presented by the C. A. R. It contains a portrait by Tarbell, of ]\Irs. Daniel Lathrop, founder of the C. A. R. 3. Private Dining Room, gift of the Virginia Chapters. It contains portraits of Francis Lightfoot Lee, of Dolly Madison and of Chief Justice John Marshall; also a framed miniature of Patrick Henry, and an etching of Christ Church, Alexandria. The marble coat-of- arms of Virginia was a gift from the sculptor, Moses Ezekiel. 4. The Kentucky Room, containing interesting colonial furni- ture from that state. 5. Delaware Room, given to the State of Delaware in memory of Mrs. Caroline Peterson Mahon Dennison, by her surviving sisters. The furniture was given by the State Chapters. There are also on this floor the West Virginia Room, the Editorial Office of the D. A. R. Magazine, and the apartment of the Superintendent, The new Administration Building now in course of erection (1922) is placed some 75 ft. W. of the Hall, and has a frontage of no ft. and depth of 100 ft. It is a white lime- stone structure of dignified design, harmonizing with that of the main building, but properly subordinated to it. The new building was planned purely as a business office to serve the special working needs of the society. The chief feature of the first floor is the central rotunda devoted to membership files and card catalogues, and surrounded by wide corridors leading to the offices of the National Officers and Executive Manager and to the working departments of the society. The second floor contains offices and living quarters of the President General; an Assembly Room, with seating capacity of 150; offices of the D. A. R. Magazine; and a large meeeting room for the Children of the American Revolution. d. The Pan American Union Building The home of the *Pan American Union (PI. II— C5) occupies a five-acre block situated on the W. side of 17th St., facing the Executive Grounds, and extending from B tj to C St., N. W. This site w^as long known as "Van Ness Park" (p. 170), and some years ago was acquired by the THE PAN AMERICAN UNION 163 George Washington University (p. 214), whose change of plans, however, placed it again upon the market. The pres- ent building, begun in 1908 and dedicated April 26th, 1910, is a square structure of white, blue-veined Georgia marble, measuring about 160 ft. each way. Its architectural order is a combination of Renaissance motives in what has aptly been termed a Mediterranean blend, combining as it does French, Italian and Spanish derivations. The plans chosen were the result of an architectural competition in which 75 designs of high merit were submitted. The successful archi- tects were Albert Kelscy and Paul P. Cret, of Philadelphia. The total cost of the building and grounds was about $1,100,- 000, of which $850,000 was given by Andrew Carnegie and the balance by the American Republics, including the United States. This building is open to the public week-days from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M,; from the middle of June to the middle of Septem- ber, it closes on Saturdays at i P. M. - History. The Pan American Union is an organization voluntarily maintained by the twenty-one American Repub- ;!ics, and devoted to the development and conservation of commerce, friendly intercourse and good understanding among the nations composing it. , It was the outcome of the first Pan American Confer- ence, held in Washington in 1889-90, and presided over by Ifames G. Blaine, then Secretary of State. A resolution was then passed by the delegates providing for a "Commercial Bureau of the American Republics." At the second Pan American Conference, held at Mexico City in 1901, the name was changed from "Commercial" to "International Bureau." At the third Conference, held at Rio de Janeiro in 1906, the scope of the organization was still further broadened, and at the fourth Conference, at Buenos Aires 1910, the preesnt name. Pan American Union, was adopted. The Union as now constituted is controlled by a Governing Board, composed of the Secretary of State of the United States and of the diplomatic representatives at Washington of the other American nations, and administered by a Di- ^•ector General and Assistant Director chosen by the Board. Among the Union's many activities may be mentioned: i. A large correspondence, averaging many thousand letters per tnonth with diplomatic representatives and other officials of foreign countries, with manufacturers, importers, exporters, tapitalists, investors, etc. ; 2. The publication of a monthly bulletin in magazine form, in three separate editions : English, Spanish and Portuguese, devoted to current information con- THE PAN AMERICAN UNION 165 •cerning the American Republics; 3. The publication and distri- bution of booklets on each of the Latin-American nations; 4. : The maintenance of a library, known as the Columbus Memorial Library (p. 37), devoted to books relating to the American Republics. From December 1906 until the new building was com- , pleted, the Union occupied an old residence on the cor. of ' Lafayette Sq. and Pennsylvania Ave. (p. 184). The Present Building. The main fagade, approached by J broad marble steps, consists of a lofty central portico with ^sloping roof of corrugated tiles, and divided by four Corin- :thian pilasters into three panels occupied by the three stately ^ entrance arches. Flanking the portico are two simple, massive pylons, which give to the fagade something of the effect produced by the customary two towers of typical Latin- American church architecture. Beyond the pylons, on either side, are extensions designed to contain the working offices, , library book-stacks and other adjuncts to the main central pur- f pose of the Union, and therefore properly subordinated in ; their relative proportions. \ The sculptures of the main fagade symbolize the equal share of the northern and southern continents in this Union of American Republics. On either side of the entrance steps, against the pylons, are two sculptured groups : on R., North America, by Giitzon Borglum (1867 — ) ; on L., South Amer- » ica, by Isidore Konti (1862 — ). In each of these groups a ■draped female figure is cherishing a nude boy, just awaken- ing to adolescence. Above these groups, on a line with the cornice, are two panels in low relief, each expressing an act of heroic self-sacrifice : on R., Washington Bidding Farewell to his Generals, by Giitzon Borglum; on L., San Martin, hav- ing liberated Chili and Peru from the Spanish Yoke, meets j Bolivar and relinquishes his Leadership, by Konti. j Above the bas-reliefs, respectively, are two symbolic birds, the Eagle ' of North America and the South American Condor, both by Solon 1 Borglum (iS68 — ). In the cornice above the portico arches is a panel of reddish gray marble inscribed in large Roman letters, "Pan Amer- ican Union." At either end of the inscription is a decorative design ; in relief: i. (on N.), A Caucasian Child; 2. (on S.), An American Indian Child, each surrounded by fruits and other symbols of the North and the South {Isidore Konti, sculptor). The visitor should also note the pilaster caps, also designed by Konti and showing among the Acan- thus leaves a female figure, typifying peace, holding olive branches and standing upon the western hemisphere. The richly wrought bronze grills of the three entrance gates deserve detailed examination. They are said to be specifically suggested 'by the grills in the Cathedral of Sara- gossa, Spain, but with free adaptation through the introduction of eagles, condors and various Latin-American motives. i66 RIDER'S WASHINGTON A detailed study of the ornamentation of this building, both within and without, well repays the visitor, who will discover on all sides motives derived not only from Spanish colonial architecture, but also from Aztec and Mayan aboriginal art. For example: the decorations of the parapet of the section flanking the pylons are adopted from the foundation of the Salto del Agua, Mexico City; while the design of the balustrade above the cornice of the pylons is taken from the Cathedral of Chihuahua. The entrance doors open directly upon the spacious Vestibule, running the full width of the central section and rising through to the height of two stories to its barrel- arched ceiling. Opposite the entrance arches are three cor- responding arches looking out upon the Patio, access to which is had through the central arch. At the N. and S. ends of the Vestibule respectively, are a pair of columns flanked by pilasters, all monoliths, of Grand Antique black marble, veined with white, with bronze capitals and bases. Beyond these columns, at the S. end, is the reception room, at the N. end a retiring room for women. The chief single artistic feature of the Vestibule is the set of *Four large bas-relief medalions by Konti, placed on the E. and W. walls, high up in the spaces between the arches, just at the curve of the vaulted ceiling. They are of a dull golden bronze ; and each contains a symbolic female figure whose form is barely veiled by filmy drapery. They represent, respectively: i. "Enlightenment" (holds Roman lamp in left hand) ; 2. "Peace"' (with clasped hands holding olive branch) ; 3. "Law" (right hand upraised in admonish- ment, left hand holding scroll) ; 4. "Patriotism" (shield on right arm, unfurled flag behind her). The marbles of the Vestibule floor deserve attention; the centre, of Tennessee marble, is surrounded by a broad inter-lacing border of Knoxville marble, outlined by brass, which forms at the foot of each grand stairway a loop centered by Formosa marble. *The Patio. The most unique spot in this exceptionally attractive building is the Patio, or central court. The visitor entering here finds himself suddenly in the midst of a trans- planted corner of the tropics. On all sides of the four L- shaped flower beds there arise giant palms, bread-fruit trees, rubber plants and numerous other species of South American flora while amid this foliage brilliant red and blue Macaws scream discordantly. The walls of the patio are of a rough white stucco broken on all sides by wide spaces through which a view of the interior may be commanded from the Vestibule, the stairways and the Gallery of Patriots. Above is a polychrome terra-cotta frieze containing the inscribed names of twelve great leaders, three on each wall, and each of them flanked by two escutcheons, designed to contain the coats-of- arms of the various American Republics. As it happens the latter THE PAN AMERICAN UNION 167 number at present only twenty-one. Accordingly the coat-of-arms of Canada has been, somewhat incongruously, mckided (the excuse being found in the inclusion of Champlain among the inscribed names) ; ^ while, after considerable debate, the two escutcheons flanking the single ' name of Columbus, were filled respectively with the Scales of Freedom and the Broken Chain, symbolic of freedom. Above the frieze a seven- foot cornice, tinted in bright colors, surrounds the court. Its design is reminiscent of that of the patio in the Municipal Palace at Barcelona. The leaders whose names were chosen to be enrolled in the patio ^ frieze are as follows. West Wall: San Martin, of La Plata (now Argentina); Columbus; Washington. North Wall: Marti, of Cuba; Hidalgo; Morazan of Central America. East Wall: Champlain; Boli- var, of Venezuela; O'Higgins, of Peru. South Wall: Artigas, ot Uruguay, Bonifacio, of Brazil; L'Ouverture, of Haiti. i In the centre of the Patio is a fountain modeled and 1 executed by Gertrude Vanderbilt IVhitney (Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney), It consists of an octagonal basin, from the centre of which rises a pillar supporting two other basins from wtich the water descends. The chief sculptural motives of the fountain are three figures on the central pillar symbolizing the past, present and future of America. )i The first, facing the entrance, is an archaic figure of an Aztec warrior; 'i the second is a semi-barbarous American Indian such as the first European explorers found him; the third is a womani whose attitude I and gesture seem to refuse to reveal the secret of the future. By a I complicated mechanism the fountain can be beautifully illuminated, ,' electrically, at night, the colors and change of water being controlled ; from a key-board in an adjacent room. Another notable feature of ' the patio is the pavement of Enfield tile, composed of small cubes ; with coarse mosaic designs in black, adapted from Mayan and Incan originals by J. H. Dulles-Allen. The two chief groups, one of two seated j figures, the other of three figures, of which the central onet isi standing, 1 are both copied from low-reliefs in the Palace at Palenque. ( W. of the Patio are the lobby and large Reading Roem ' (100 ft. by 40 ft.) of the Columbus Memorial Library, the offices and stack-rooms of which occupy almost the entire ,' portion of both stories on the N. side of the building. The library has grown rapidly, and now contains (1922). approxi- j mately 50,000 volumes of works relating to the Americas in English, Spanish, Portuguese, French and German. ; The library is open free for reference at all times when I the building itself is open to the public. There are private . studies for the use of persons engaged in special research work. I Among the interesting exhibits in the main reading room are: ■j a huge central relief map of Latin America, which vividly portrays the \ topography and nature of the land; a case showing the leading I agricultural products of Central and South America; a case contain- ing variovis different species of valuable woods, including Ebony, Royal palm. Black heart wood and Diablo muerto from Central ! America, Log-wood from Guatemala, Mora or Fustic wood from Mexico ^ and white Mahogany from Bolivia; and a case containing miscellaneous groups of the products of Latin-America, including a collection of 1 gold and silver ores and other minerals, of cocoa, Dominican Hemp i and the Tonca bean from Venezuela, together with an exhibit illus- ^ trating the manufacture of Panama hats. i68 RIDER'S WASHINGTON The Gallery of Patriots. The visitor may now return to the Vestibule and ascend the stairs leading into the foyer on the floor above, which, with the adjacent N. corridor, con- stitutes the Gallery of Patriots. This collection will eventually consist of twenty-one portrait busts in marble, each of which is a contribution from one of the twenty-one Republics. The pedestals on which they rest are plain square pilasters of dark reddish-brown Languedoc marble, which is also used for the wall bases and door trims. Of the twenty-one busts, sixteen are already in place, the United States being temporarily represented by a plaster copy of Houdon's Washington, which occupies the central point in the foyer, facing the Hall of the Americas. The other busts already in place are as follows, beginning with the N. aisle: i. Dessalines (Normil Ulysse Charles, sculptor), presented by Haiti; 2. Marti, presented by Cuba; 3. Barrios, presented by Guatemala; 4. Unanue, presented by Peru; 5. Sucre, pre- sented by Bolivia; 6. Bolivar (Rudolph Evans, sculptor), presented by Venezuela; 7. San Martin (Herbert Adams, sculptor), presented by Argentine Republic; 8. O'Higgins, presented by Chile; 9 Artigas (/. Belloni, sculptor), presented by Uruguay; 10. Jaurez, presented by Mexico; 11. Bonifacio (Charpenticr. sculptor), presented by Brazil; 12. Herrera (Chester Beach, sculptor), presented by Panama; 13. Mora (Juan R. Bonill, sculptor), presented by Costa Rica; 14. Morazan. presented by Honduras; 15. Delgardo (Ferraris, scuptor), presented by Salvador. Opening from the foyer, on the W., is the Hall of the Americas, the chief show room of the building. It measures 100 X 65 ft., and is finished throughout in white, the only touches of color being the purple and gold of the furniture and the gilded bronze of the chandeliers. The vaulted ceil- ing, barrel-arched like the foyer and great Vestibule, is sup- ported by twenty-four fluted Corinthian columns. The side columns are" free and grouped in pairs inclosing side aisles ; the end columns are engaged. The five W. windows, cor- responding to the five entrances from the foyer, have colored borders, consisting of the arms and other symbols of the American Republics (Nicola D'Asccnzo, artist). At each end of the Hall of the Americas is a smaller hall, originally designed respectively for the Governing Board Room, and the Committee or Dining Room. The latter (reached from the foyer), has been re-christened the Colum- bus Room, and contains the nucleus of a collection of Colum- bus relics. They consist mainly of early woodcuts and engravings, facsimile reproductions of ancient maps and photo- graphs of historic spots associated with the great Genoese. *The Governing Board Room. This room is closed to the public; but visitors may obtain a fairly satisfactory view through the entrance on the E. The color scheme is brown and gold, the wall covering being a dull ellow brocade, up to T E R. B. AC E SECOND FLOOR PLAN OF THE NEW BUILDING OF THE : .._ PAN AMERICAN UNION i;o RIDER'S WASHINGTON the gilded bronze frieze. The chairs and oval table (20 x 9 ft.), are Dominican mahogany. On each chair are carved the name and coat-of-arms of one of the Republics. The most noteworthy single feature of this room is the Bronze Frieze, consisting of four panels illustrating the chief events in the early history of the new world. They were modeled by Sally James Farnum (Mrs. Paulding Farnum), of New York, and have a uniform height of 2 ft. 9 in.; the length of the side and end panels being respectively 25 ft. and 9 ft. 6 in. South Wall. South American panel (L. to R.) : i. Pizarro's ruthless conquest of the peace-loving, sun-worshipping Incas; 2. Simon Bolivar, the Liberator of South America, leading bis dismounted cav- alry across the Andes; 3. San Martin and O'Higgins meeting at the Battle of Chacabuco, 181 7. Separating these historic scenes, and framed within torsion columns_ are two familiar types of South Amer- ica: on L., the Llama driver, wrapped in his poncho; on R., the gaucho or roving cowboy of the pampas, with his bolas in his hand. West Wall. North American panel: Champlain negotiating with the Indian chiefs. North Wall. Mexican and Central American panel (L. to R.) : I. Cortez and the Aztecs (note especially the invader's native wife, Marina, walking beside his war horse and preceded by the sinister figure of the Grand Inquisitor; 2. The landing of Columbus; 3. Balboa dis- covering the Pacific. Dividing these scenes, and framed by reproduc- tions of tbe famous Stela of Copan, are two symbolic figures: i. on L., Indian figure of Goddess of Plenty, representing Agricultural Wealth; 2. on R., Indian toiling in mine, representing Mineral Wealth. East Wall. Brazilian panel: Dom Joao, King of Portugal, landing at Rio de Janeiro, commemorating the transference, in 1808, of the Portuguese seat of government to the New World. Behind the main building, at the extreme western limit of the attractive formal garden, is the Pan American Annex, erected in 1912 (Kelsey and Cret, architects), its dimensions and position being in part dictated by the desire to shut from sight certain unsightly factory buildings. It is used for extra offices, exhibits and storage purposes. Its interest to visitors centres in its triple-arched loggia, which is said to be the most beautiful attempt of its kind to re-embody in modern construction the aboriginal art of Latin-America. Here, in both high and low relief, in bright and in dull colors, fragments of this early American art taken from Palanque, Copan, Quirigua, Mitla and Chichen-Itza have been brought together and faithfully reproduced, affording a glimpse of the highly developed civilization which flourished in southern America before the coming of Columbus, Cortez and Pizarro. The splendor of Chichen-ltza, the Holy city of early Mexican civilization, has supplied the greater part of the design. The general form of the composition is taken from its famous monastery. The huge monster's head in the centre is copied from the Iglesia or church, and the two standing figures on either side of the jaws are from the Temple of the Jaguars, while the smaller panels, of various forms and colors, have been taken from a large number of beautifully sculp- tured facades and crumbling temples. x The large figure facing the pool in front of the Annex is a repro- duction of a famous stone carving known as the "Sad Indian" and regarded as one of the most precious relics of the Aztec period. ' Within the Pan-American grounds is the site of the historic cot- tage of Davy Burnes, one of the four original owners of the land com- THE CORCORAN ART GALLERY 183 Shadows Lie; Thomas P. Anshut^ (1851-1912), A Dutchman; Thomas Sully, Portrait of Mrs. Fanny Yates Levy ; John S. Sargent, Portrait O'f Gen. Leonard Wood; Emil Carlsen (1853- ), Moonlight on a Calm Sea; Mary Cassatt, Little Girl Embroidering; /. Alden Weir, Portrait of Miss de L ; Walter MacEzvcn (i860- ), Un Ancetre ; Walter Elmer Scho- field (1867- ), Cliff Shadows; /. Francis Murphy (1853- ), October. East Wall: Carl Rungius, Landscape; Robert Lee Mac- Cameron (1866-1912), GroLipe d'Amis. Continue through the W. door to Gallery G, at S. W, cor. O'f building. This room is used for temporary exhibits. At present (1922) it contains the collection of ''Flag Paint- ings," by Child e Hassam. The north door leads into Gallery H : North Wall: (E. to W.) : Jules Breton (1827-1906), Brit- tany Widow; Leon A. L'hermitte (1844- ), La Famille. West Wall: Jules Dupre (1811-89), The Pond of the Great Oak; Erskine Nicol (1825-1904), Paddy's Mark; George Morland (1763-1804), The Warrener ; C. F. Daubigny (1817- 78), A Hamlet on the Seine near Vernon; Adolphe Monticelli (1824-86), Landscape; Emile-Van Marke (1827-90), Landscape with Cattle; /. B. C. Corot (1796-1875), The Wood Gatherers; Gustave Courbet (1819-78), Landscape; Jea^i Charles Cazin (1840-1901), Moonlight in Holland; Ferdinand Heilbuth (1826-89), On the Pincian Hill. Rome (Cardinal Questioning Acolytes) ; A^. V. Diaz de la Pena (1808-76), The Approaching Storm; Constant Troyon (1810-65), The Drinking Place; Blaise Alexandre Desgojfe, Souvenirs of the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries. South Wall: F, H. Kaemnierer (1839-92), Beach at Scheveningen ; C. F. Daubigny, Landscape ; Cesare Maccari (1840- ), The Fortune Teller; Alphonse M. de Neuville (.1836-85 ) , Champagny. East Wall: Theophile de Bock (1851-1904), The Poudon Commons; Ludzmg Knaus (1829-1910), The Forester at j Home; Thomas Couture (1815-79), Female Head; Entile \ Breton, Winter Moonrise; Jozef Israels (1824-1911), Interior ] of a Cottage; /. /. Hcnner (1829-1905), Joan of Arc in Infancy; Martin Rico (1850-1908), The Banks of the Adige ; Adolphe Schreyer (1828-99), The Watering Place: Felix Ziem j (1821-1911), Constantinople from the Golden Horn. Return to the atrium, and enter Gallery I through first door on left, N. of stairwav. I ^ North Wall: (E. to W.) : Jules Dupre (181 1-89), Moon- jlig-ht by the Sea; Jean Louis Gericault (1791-1824), Study of a> Torso; Jean Georges Vibert (1840-1902), The Schism; Entile- 1 i84 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Renouf (1845-94), The Helping Hand; Fran:: Linder (1738- 1809), The Butterfly; Johannes H. L. De Haas (1832-80), Holland Cattle; Gaetano Chierici (1838- ), Fun and Fright. West Wall: Loitis Alnie Japy (1830-1916), Twilight; Ary Scheffcr (1797-1858), Portrait of Commodore Charles Morris; Oscar Bjorck (i860- ), The Nail Makers; John Jackson (1778-1831), A Portrait; B. Peretti, Autumnal Corn and Grapes; Liiigi Chialiva (1842-1914), A Shower; Hector Leroiix (1829-1900), *The Vestal Tuccia ; Johann IVilhebn Preyer (1803-89), Fruit; Luigi Chialiva, Fine Weather; Louis Mettling (1847-94), Study Head of a Young Man; Emilc Breton (1831-1902), Sunset; Sir Philip A. de Laszlo, *Head of an Indian Prince; Louis A. Japy, Spring Landscape. South W^all : Giistave Loiseau (1865- ), The Inundation; Simon Saint-Jean (1808-60), Fruit; Jan Bedys Tom (1813- ), Cattle; E. L. G. Isahey (1804-86), The Wedding Festival; Samuel F. B. Morse (1791-1872), The Old House of Repre- sentatives; Giovanni Battista Piaszetta (1682-1754), Two Heads; Pierre Edouard Frere (1819-86), Preparing for Church; Pierre E. T. Rousseau (1812-67), Landscape; Luigt Loir, Effect of Snow. East Wall: Aime Morot (1850- ). *E1 Bravo Toro : Frank Blackwetl Mayer (1827-99), Leisure and Labor: Georges C. Jeannin, Vase of Flowers; Richard Burnief (1826-84), Cattle on the .'Sea Shore, near Scheveningen ; Ferdinandus De Brackeleer (1792-1883), The Happy Family; Jean Louis de Marne (1754-1829), Interior; Franz Lenbach (1836-1904), *Otto, Fuerst von Bismarck; F. De Braekeleer, The Unhappy Family; Emilc Gustave Couder, Flower Piece;; Charles Ferdinand Venneman (1803-75). The Village Doc- 1 tor; Pierre Charles Comfe (1823-95). A Scene at Fontaine-] bleau: Anatole Vcly (1838-82), *The Talking Well. The Corcoran School of Art, in the N. end of the Art Gallery Building, but with entrance on New York Ave., is open annually, from October to May, inclusive. It gives free instruction in drawing, painting, composition, anatomy and perspective. The only charge is an annual entrance fee of' $10.00 paid in advance. III. Lafayette Square Lafayette Square, (PI II — C4) facing the White House on the north, is a rectangular park of about seven acres bounded on the S. by Pennsylvania Ave., on the N. by H St. and on the E. and W. by Madison and Jackson Places Historically it is the most interesting of the smaller parks having been for nearly a century the center of Washington social life, while almost every house surrounding it is rich LAFAYETTE SQUARE 185 in historical associations. Across this square Farragut walked with his seconds, on his way to the duel which was to end in his death ; on the E. side of the square Sickles shot and killed iPhilip Barton Key ; while on the Tuesday follo,wing Lincoln's assassination, when the body lay in state in the East Room, and the public were admitted, the entire square was thronged with waiting crowds, even at nightfall, when the doors were closed. As originally planned, Lafayette Square extended all the way from 15th to 17th St. The name is said to have been chosen by Wash- ington. No attempt to improve or lay out the grounds was made until after the War of 1812, the whole space remaining a neglected common destitute of trees, and used as a parade ground for military muster. At the W. corner there was an oval race-course, and Pennsylvania Ave. betw. 17th and 20th Sts. was the home-stretch. Jefferson was the first to interest himself in improving the park, at the same time considerably reducing it by cutting off both ends on the lines now marked by Madison and Jackson Pis. The first edifice facing the Square was St. John's Church (p. 195), erected in 1816, and the first private residence the Decatur House (p. 192), dating from 1819. -^ Lafayette Square contains five noteworthy monuments. At the S. E. corner is the Lafayette Memorial, erected by Congress in memory of the services of General Lafayette and his compatriots in the years of 1777-83. The figures were modeled by two French sculptors, Alexandre Falguiere and Antonin Mercie, and the pedestal designed by Paul Pujol. Surmounting the pedestal is the standing figure of [Lafayette in bronze, heroic size, while ibelow, in front, a partly draped figure, symbolizing America, is reaching up her sword to him. On the E. and W. sides of the pedestal re- spectively stand bronze figures of D'Estaing and De Grasse, of the French Navy, and of Rochambeau and Duportail of the French Army (note the distinguishing details of the anchor and the mortar). ■]_ The plans by Falguiere and Mercie, chosen out of seven submitted in competition, in their original form proposed for the four subordinate statues of French ofificers the names of Rochambeau, Custine, Lauzin and Lameth. The Commissioners appointed by Congress and consist- ing at that time of Secretary Endicott, Architect Clark and Senator Everts, were not satisfied with the choice. Accordingly they invoked Ithe aid of Robert C. Winthrop, Bancroft the historian, and almost .every historical society in America, before arriving at the selection eventually approved. At the ,N. E. cor. of the Square stands the monument to Tadeusz Kosciuszko (1746-1817), tlie "Hero of both Hem- ispheres," a full length statue lin bronze, heroic size, sur- mounting a lofty pedestal of Vermont granite (height 17 ft., weight 115 tons), surrounded by four bronze sculptures ^{Antonio Popiel, artist). Th° monument fronts to the N. ,On the pedestal is inscribed the one word, "Saratoga," the i86 RIDER'S WASHINGTON scene of Kosciuszko's chief service in America. Above: in bronze, the Western Hemisphere, with an American Eagle holding the Stars and Stripes. S. side: "Raclawice" (the scene of Kosciuszko's greatest Polish victory, April 4th, 1794). Above: in bronze, the Eastern Hemisphere with Eagle of Freedom strangling Serpent of Despotism. "The inscription is the well-known quotation: "And Freedom shrieked as Kosciuszko fell." The statue was "erected by the Polish National Alliance of America, and presented to the United States in behalf of the Polish-American Citizens, May nth, 1910." E. side : Bronze group. American soldier cutting the bonds of the American farmer, freeing him from the foreign yoke. W. side : Polish soldier wounded and falling, is pro- tected by Polish farmer with scythe. At the N. W. cor. of the Square stands the monument to Baron von Steuben (1730-94), modeled by Albert Jaegers, and unveiled Dec. 7th, 1910. A replica presented to the former Emperor of Germany, William II, and to the German nation was unveiled at Potsdam Sept. 2d, 191 1. On the W. Side of the pedestal is a bronze group consisting of a seated woman admonishing a kneeling lad and symbolizing "Com- memoration." On the E. side a helmeted warrior in classic garb is instructing a youth, representing "Military Instruction." On the S. side: bronze plaque with medallion portraits of Col. William Worth and Maj. Benjamin Walker, aides and friends of von Steuben. Baron von Steuben offered his services to Congress in 1778, and was appointed instructor general of the Continental Army, with rank of Major General. He drilled W'ashington's defeated army at Valley Forge, took active part in the siege of Yorktown, and was a member of the Court Martial which tried Major Andre. Congress granted him a pension of $2400. S. W. cor. : Monument to Rochambeau given by France in 1902 {F. Hamar, sculptor). Bronze figure, heroic size, facing S. ; below : female figure symbolizing liberty, holding sword and banner, with American eagle at her side. N. side, inscription :' "We have been contemporaries and fellow-laborers in the cause of liberty, and we have lived togther, as brothers should do, in harmonious friendship." Washington to Rochambeau, Feb. ist, 1784. Rochambeau came to America with! an army of 6000 French soldiers to help Washington, and his co-operation with the forces of Lafayette resulted in the defeat 6f Cornwallis at Yorktown. When this statue- was unveiled by President Roosevelt, in 1902, among those present were representatives of the families both of Lafayette and Rochambeau. In the center of the Square is located the much dis- cussed Equestrian Stat-ue of Andrew Jackson, modeled by Clark Mills and cast by him at Bladensburg, where he set up a furnace for the purpose. It was the first successful, large bronze casting made in the United States. This statue cast from cannon captured by Jackson in his various 1 battles, was inaugurated Jan. 8th, 1853, being the 38th anniversary ot Jackson's victory at New Orleans. LAFAYETTE SQUARE 187 There arc two bronze replicas: on^^ New^ Orleans, the scene of Jackson's achievement; the other in Nashville^XTenn., where his ashes repose. A popular legend, repeated in practically all the guide books, is to the effect that this statue of a rearing horse is so delicately ad- justed that it stands poised on hind feet without any pivot or anchor. In point of fact it is securely bolted to the foundation as a protection against the danger of high winds, a possible earthquake shock or other casualties. But the statue does balance; and Mr. Mills used to demonstrate this fact with a miniature replica of the horse, which balanced perfectly whether mounted or unmounted. -^ ■ Almost every house facing on Lafayette Square is his- toric. Beginning on the E. side, at Pennsylvania Ave. and Madison Place (formerly 15^^/2 St.), adjoining the Riggs Bank on the E. and the Belasco theatre on the N. is the recently erected Treasury Annex, a classic structure of gray Indiana limestone, with 8 Ionic columns on the principal or Lafayette Park facade. It is connected with the Treasury [Building by a tunnel under Pennsylvania Ave. The Annex (contains the Income Tax Unit. The site which it occupies lis that of the seventh house on the Square, erected ;about 1836 by Dr. Thomas S. Gunnell, a dentist, whom President Van Buren appointed City Postmaster. Later Postmaster General Samuel D. Hubbard lived here. During the Civil War this house was temporarily (1863) headquar- ters of the Department of Washington. The Belasco Theatre, formerly the Lafayette Square Opera House, was designed and supervised by U. H. \Painter, a civil engineer. A bronze memorial tablet, erected by the architect's daughters in 1902, records the fact that the building "was erected of steel skeleton construction, stone, terra-cotta, mackite and brick, to prove that an opera house can be made safe at all times from fire and panic.*' The theatre was first opened September 30th, 1895. ill The above mentioned tablet also preserves in bronze a basrelief ipresentment of the historic *Rodgers House, which occupied this site for the greater part of a century. The land was once owned by Henry iClay, who conveyed it to Commander John Rodgers in exchange for a jackass which Rcdgers had brought from a foreign port. Here ■Rodgers built the third house on the Square, in 1S31. After his death it became the home of Roger B. Taney while Secretary of the Treasury 1(1833); then of James K. Paulding, Secretary of the Navy (1838). After this it was, for a w"hile, a fashionable boarding house, number- ing among its guests John C. Calhoun, while Jackson's Secretary of War, and Henry Clay, while Secretary of State. Subsequently, it be- came the home of the fashionable and exclusive Washinaton Club. Daniel Sickles and Philip Barton Key were both members; and it was about 100 ft. S. of the club house door that Sickles shot and killed (^ey; February 27th, 1859 (P- I93)- The house was modernized and bccupied by William H. Seward, while Secretarv of the State under ^ ^Lincoln; and here, on the night of April 14th, 1865, Mr. Seward, then |ritically ill as the result of a runaway accident, was attacked and \ i i88 RIDER'S WASHINGTON nearly killed by Lewis Payne, one of the Lincoln conspirators. The house was next occupied by General and Mrs. Belknap, tnen for a time it was Government headquarters for the Commissary Department, Lastly it was purchased by James G. Blaine, who died here. No. 21, adjoining the theatre on the N., was erected in 1828 by Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, second son of Col. John Tayloe of the Octagon House (p. 209). He personally preferred a country residence; but after his marriage, in 1824, to Miss Julia Maria Dickinson, he yielded to his bride's desire for a city home. The house, until his death in 1868, was one of the chief centres of social life and hospitality in Washington. Here, President William Henry Harrison paid his last visit to any private house. Here, Philip Barton Key, a connection of the Tayloes by marriage, was brought to die when shot by Sickles. Mr. Tayloe's famous collection of pic- tures, ornaments and curios was exhibited for some years in the Corcoran Art Gallery, but has recently been claimed by the Tayloe heirs and removed to Troy. A later occupant of the Tayloe house was Admiral Paulding, a son of John Paulding, one of the captors of ]\lajor Andre. It was the birthplace of Lolly Hammersley, later Dowager Duchess of Marl- borough. Vice-President Garrett C. Hobart lived here; and during the McKinley administration it was the home of Senator Marcus A. Hanna, and was popularly known as the "little White House." The Tayloe house is now a part of thei Cosmos Club (see below), and is used as a Ladies' Annex. The barn in the rear has been converted into an assembly hall for scientific and literary meeetings. The Cosmos Club (PI. II— D4), on S, E. cor. of Madi- son PI. and H St., is one of the foremost social institutions in America, not only because of its exclusiveness, but because of its many distinguished members. Many leading authori- ties in science, art and literature are included in its member- ship of approximately 11,100 (resident members 700; non- resident 400). This club was organized November i6th, 1878, sand according t^ its articles of incorporation: "The particular objects and business of this association are the advancement of its members in science, htera- j ture and art, their mutual improvement by social intercourse, the ac- quisition and maintenance of a library, and the collection and care of materials and appliances relating to the above subjects." The club's by-laws membership is restricted to "men — (a) Who have ^done I meritorious work in science, literature or the fine arts; (b) Who, tho j not occupied in science, literature or the fine arts, are known to be j cultivated therein; (c) Who are distinguished in a learned profession or in public service." The Cosmos Club is the regular meeting place of several important scientific societies: i. The Biological Society of Washington, organized December 3d, 1880, "to encourage the study of Biological Sciences, an! to hold meetings at which papers shall be read and discussed." It hnn a membership of over 300. 2. The Botanical Society, organized Novem- ber 23d, 1901, through the consolidation of the Botanical Seminar (1893), and the Washington Botanical Society (1898). Its membership' LAFAYETTE SQUARE ' 189 is about 150. 3. The Chemical Society of Washington, organized January 31st, 1884. Present membership about 360. 4. The Washing- ton Society of Engineers, organized November 23d, 1905. Present membership upward of 400. The buildings occupied by the club include the historic "Dolly Madison House," the Tayloe house, already described, and a modern annex erected between them on the sites of two dwellings (demolished 1908), the former homes respect- ively of Col. Robert G. Ingersoll and William lllndom, Sec- retary of the Treasury. The Dolly IVIiadison House is a structure in the Colonial style, dating from 1818. Its builder and first occupant was Richard Cuffs, brother-in-law of Mrs. Madispn, whose name is perpetuated historically in the "John Gilpin" parody, published after Mrs. Madison's flight from the White House at the approach of the British forces in 1814: "My sister Cutts and Cutts and T, And Cutts' children three, Will fill the coach. So you must ride On horseback after we." Owing to the fact that Mr. Cutts was in debt to Presi- dent Madison, the house passed into the latter's hands about 1835, and constituted part of his estate on his death in June, 1836. Mrs. Madison was then too poor to occupy it, her personal property having been squandered by her son, Payne Todd. In March. 1837, Congress appropriated $30,000 for the purchase of Madison's diary of the debates and events connected with the framing of the Federal Constitution. Mrs. Madison was thus enabled to return to the Capital, and she resided in this house until her death in July, 1849. Sub- sequent tenants include: Attorney General Crittenden, Sena- tor William C. Preston and Commodore Wilkes, who, by curious coincidence, found himself, in 1861, obliged to take his former close neighbor, Slidell, from the British Steamship Trent. During the Civil War this house was occu- pied by Gen. George B. McClellan as headquarters of the Army of the Potomac. Note bronze tablet on H St. Fagade. Diagonally opposite, on the N. W. cor. of H St. and Ver- Inont Ave., which here radiates towards the N. E., is the re- cently erected Arlington Building, occupying the site of the famous old Arlington Hotel, demoKshed in 1912, to make way 'or a more ambitious hotel structure, an enterprise later aban- doned. The main body of the hotel, erected in 1869, occupied he northern portion of the plot, replacing three historic dwell- ings formerly standing on the Vermont Ave. side. These were |tN..to S.) : I. (cor. of I St.) the home of Rcverdy Johnson, ine-time Minister to England and Attorney-General under 190 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Taylor ; 2. home o-f William D. Marcy, Secretary of State un- der Pierce; 3. home of Lewis Cass, one-time Minister to France, Secretary of War under Jackson and of State under Buchanan. The H St. addition, built in 1890, incorporated the former homes of Charles Sumner (on the H St. cor.) and of Senator Pomeroy, adjoining it on the W. The Arlington was unrivalled among Washington hotels in its list of celebrated guests, including Emperor Dom Pedro of Brazil, King Kalakaua of the Hawaiian Islands, the Grand Duke Alexis, President Diaz of Mexico, Henry Irving and Adelina Patti. Li Hung Chang stayed here with his suite of one hundred. During the Russian-Japanese war Prince Fushimi of Japan occupied the entire H Street annex. Practically all the Presidents stayed at the Arlington before their inauguration, from 1870 until McKinley's time. This hotel was long the diplomatic headquarters of Latin America. Mexico's destiny during the Madero revolution was framed here. And it is said that the Peace Conference of American Re- publics could not have reached a pact, except for what took place in Room 31 during 1907. Walter O. Gresham, Secretary of State, and Henry C. Payne, Postmaster-General, bdth died in the Sumner portion of the annex. The Arlington Building is a ao-story structure of gray Indiana limestone, designed on the Corinthian order, and was completed in Nov., 1919. It houses the United States Veterans Bureau, created by Act of Congress, approved Aug. 9, 1921, which assumed all the powers and duties formerly pertaining to the War Risk Insurance Bureau, together with that part of the functions and duties of the Federal Board for Voca- tional Education conferred -by the Vocational •Rehabilitation Act of June 27, 1918. There is nothing within this building to interest sightseers. Adjoining the Arlington Building on the W. is a large square double mansion, the eighth house erected on the Square, often called the *Ashburton House. It was buih by Matthew St. Clair Clarke, Clerk of the House of Representatives during 1822-34. Clarke lost a fortune of $200,000 in speculation, and consequently the pretentious $5000 marble portico which he had ordered for his house never left the marble yard in Baltimore. Later it was the home of Joseph Gales, editor of the A'ational Intelligencer. Lord Ashburton resided here when in 1842 he was sent by Sir Robert Peel to settle the "Northeastern Boundary" ques- tion. It was the home of John Nelson, Attorney-General under Tyler in 1843. Later it became the British Legation during the regime of Sir Henry Lytton Bulwer (1849-52"), who brought with him as escretary his nephew, Robert Bul- wer, known in literature as "Owen Meredith." The tradi- tion is that the latter's most widly read poem. Lucile, was^' written or at least begun in this house. Later tenants were:| Attorney-General Nelson and I^Irs. Alargaret Freeman. LAFAYETTE SQUARE 191 Adjoining on the west, N. E. cor. of i6th St., is the his- toric St. John's Church (see Sixteenth Street Section p. 195) ; and opposite, on the N. W. cor., is the residence of the late John Hay (p. 199), now occupied by bis son-in-law, James VV. Wadsworth, Jr., Senator from New York. No. 160S H St., west of the Hay House, is the residence built about 1885 for Henry Adams, the historian, one of four brothers grandsons of John Quincy Adams. It is now occupied by the Brazilian Embassy. Two famous old dwellings, the Stockton House and Cor- coran House, which formerly occupied the remainder of the block westward to Connecticut Ave., were demolished in the spring of 1922, to make way for a National Headquarters that i IS being erected by the Chamber of Commerce of the United ^toites, a body comprising upward of 1200 separate business organizations. The designs for the new building have been prepared by Cass Gilbert, and the estimated cost is $'2,750,000 ficP 2Z t?° -Tv, ?°"n- (^°-./6o7), a large cream-colored brkk edi- fice was the ninth dwelling built upon the Square, and was erected and first occupied by Commodore Richard Stockton. It wa3 later purchased ,by Thomasi Ritchie President Polk's anti-Blair editor described as \rtZT f'"''t ^''^ ^T"" '^^' ever wore nankeen trousers and b'oad- .brimmed straw hat." Its next tenant was Senator John Slidell from ^Louisiana, who later gained notoriety in the Mason-Slidel episoT 'It was next occupied by Gideon Welles, Secretary of he Nav; ithroughout the Lincoln and Johnson administrations; by Daniel Lamont^ ?ru4'7n'nd^' h""^-''' Cleveland and by Russell A.^Alger Secretary :-j ^^.^V under Harrison. Its last oocupants were the American jAssoctatton of Umversity Women, now at 1634 I St. ^>nencan j The Corcoran House which formerly adjoined the Stock- |:on House on the west at the N. E. cor. of H St and -.onnecticut Ave., was built by the father of one-time Gov- ernor Ihomas Swann of Maryland. Its early tenants were- '■. the^ Russian Minister, Krudener ; 2. Aaron Vale Van jiurens Assistant Secretary of State; 3. Daniel Webster becretary of State under Harrison and Tvler (1841-43) la. ^^hl 'a?A ^"Po^^ant transaction during Weloster's tenure of office estern hmfiH"'*°w^''^*^\'^VT'^^- ^^^^^^ ^^^ "^"'^h disputed north- ' ?rtnn ^°"",^^^y between the Umted States and Canada. Lord Ash- urton was frequent y entertained by Webster who, as part of his lolTZl' 'j '"1, '° \";^- Pl^""ed a series of dinneis that^ would have l.tonished Lucullus— Maine salmon, Massachusetts cod, Connecticut ^ltr^l7llf'Z'^T ^"'^ ^-^'^^^ canvasbacks, served in ^fashion fuS^'^^^r^^^^^'^ ^^^^^^' ^"^ ^^^ -'--^ - ^he shores \ \^.ff^Z\^^v'^^ himself, after his resignation, unable to keep up 'aiS and fonnS""'"/- .T^^ '^ '° ^^^"^T ^^ Corcoran, the millionair? m^t.l ^ founder of the Corcoran Art Gallerv (p. 171) and the ^omse Home Op. 228 . After the outbreak of ^'the Civil War Mr lEie"ofTe°T"''^ sympathies for the South incurred tSe dH- !So4riW in Fn?nnT"Tv,"''T.^']^ 'i"^ ^°,""^ 't wise to exile himself \Kr^.l^l- " Europe. The Federal authorities were on the point of nfiscating his home, when they fom.d themselves blocked by ?he fa?t 192 RIDER'S WASHINGTON that he had leased the property to the French Minister, the Marquis de Montholon. After Mr. Corcoran's death, in 1888, the house' was occupied successively by Senator Calvin S. Brice, Senator Chauncey Depew, and William Corcoian Eustis, who was Chairman of the Inaugural Committee at President Wilson's first Inauguration. No. 1617 H St., a large square red brick house at the N. W. cor. of Connecticut Ave., was the residence of Rear Admiral Williain B. Shubrick, who served with distinction on board the Constitution, and was for many 3^ears, until 1874, head of the Light House Board. No. 162 1 was the home of the late Judge George Bancroft Davis, former Secretary of State and Minister to Germany. No. 1623, a weather-beaten structure, of which the lower story has lately been remodeled into shops, was for many years, until his death, the home of George Bancroft, the historian. It was here that he completed his History of the United States. The *Decatur House, (PI. II — C4) the first private residence on Lafayette Square, stands at the S. W. cor. of H. St. and Jackson Place (formerly 16^ St.), facing the Von Steuben Monument. It was designed by Latrobe and 'built in 1819 for Commodore Stephen Decatur, the hero of the war with Tripoli. For a single season this house was a brilliant social centre, presided over by the Commodore's beautiful and accomplished wife, who had once been sought in marriage by Jerome Bonaparte. On March 22d, 1820, Decatur died here, from wounds received in an encounter with Captain (later Commodore) James Barron, on the famous Bladens- burg Duelling-ground (p. 414). The ill-feeling between the two officers dated back to 1808, when Decatur was a member of the court-martial which suspended Barron for five years from rank and pay, for his surrender of the Chesa- peake to the Le\opard. The immediate cause of the duel, however, was Decatur's severe criticism of Barron for not returning from abroad to do his part in the war of 1812. Decatur, mortally wounded,, was carried from the field and died in a few hours. The funeral, three days later, was attended by the President and his Cabinet.! the Supreme Court Judges and almost the whole Congress. J The house was leased by the widow (1823) to the Ru3-!| sian Minister, Baron de Tuyll. Later it was occupied sucli cessively by three Secretaries of State: Henry Clay (1825-, 29); Martin Van Buren (1829-31), resigning from Jack, son's Cabinet to become Minister to England; and Edwarc' Livingston (1831-33), brother of Chancellor Livingston, whCj administered the oath of office to Washington. It was during Van Buren's occupancy that the second-stor» window on the South side was cut through, in order that the Secie| tary could watch for signals from the White House. Later occupants include the British Minister, Sir Charles Vaughanl the French Minister, Baron Hyde de Neuville, whose vivacious wife ' LAFAYETTE SQUARE 193 remembered for the amusing error of her habitual greeting, "I am charming to see you"; John Gadsby. host of the National Hotel; Joseph Gales, who with Seaton owned the National Intelligencer; Howell Cobb. Secretary of the Treasury (1857-80); the two brothers, John A. and James C. King of New York, father and uncle respectively of Mrs. Bancroft-Davis; and Judah P. Benjamin, Senator from Louisiana, and subsequently Secretary of State under the Confederacy. During the Civil War this house was rented by the Government and used as offices. Subsequently it was acquired by General Edward Fitzgerald Beale, grandson of Commodore Truxton. under whom Decatur,^ first owner of the house, once served as midshipman. Here General Grant, after his retirement from the Presidency, stayed many weeks as guest of General Beale. No. 22 Jackson Place, home of JVilliam L. Marcy while Secretary of War under Polk ; later of Representative New- berry (Mich.) ; James G. Blaine. Sr., and Representative William L. Scott. It was occupied by President Roosevelt in 1902 during the remodeling- of the White House, and hence was popularly known as the "Temporary White House." It is now the home of the Women's City Club (1600 ;imembers). I No. 20, former home of Charles C. Glover, a banker. No. 18, .former home of William J. Mitrtagh who, in i860, founded the National \Rcpublican, which staunchly supported the candidacy of Lincoln; later 'home of General Frank Steele. No. 16 (on N. side of Alley), former jhome of Major-General J. G. Parke. \ N'o. 14, the Stockton-Sickles House, was the second dwelling erected on the Square. It was originally built prior to 1820, by Dr. Ezvell, a Naval Surgeon, and was probably the birth place of the rebel General Ewell ; subsequently it was occupied by three Secretaries of the Navy: i. Smith Thomp- son (until 1823); 2. Samuel L. Southard (1823-31); 3. Levi Woodbury (1831-34). Other tenants were: i. Senator William C. Rives of Virginia, grandfather of Amelie Rives Chanler. the novelist; 2. Dr. Harris of the Navy. It was Durchased by Stockton, a Purser in the Navy, and on his jleath by Daniel E. Sickles. From the upper windows of this house Mr. Sickles' misguided lyoung wife used to exchange signals with her lover, Philip Barton Key, at his club-house across the Park (p. 187). The gossip in this club presently reached the husband's ears; the wife's confession and jthe murder of Key promptly followed. 1' Subsequently ^^ice-President Schuyler Colfax resided here for many years, from the time he was chosen Speaker of the House! in 1863. fj No. 12, former home of Mrs. James Blair, daughter of General Jessup. No. lo, former home of Senator Arthur P. Gorman. No. 8, residence of Admiral Aid en; then for many ^ears the home of Major Henry R. Rathbone and his young !wife (daughter of Senator Ira Harris), both of whom were in the box with the Presidential party on the night of Lin- coln's assassination. It was Rathbone who grappled with 194 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Booth, and received a thrust from the latter's dagger. Other tenants have been General N. L. Anderson and Senator Dolph. No. 6, residence of: i. Mrs. Green, daughter of Admiral Dahlgren ; 2. Col. William H. Philip. No. 4, for- mer residence of Johti McLean, editor of the Cincinnati Enquirer. No. 2, former residence of Peter Parker, one- time Minister to China. From 1906 until 1910 it v^as the temporary home of the Bureau of American Republics. Directly W. of the above mentioned house, on Pennsyl- 'vania Ave., are two fine old mansions: the first, No. 1651, a four-story, yellow sandstone building, is the Blair House, built in 1810 by Surgeon-General Joseph Lovell. From its windows were witnessed the burning of the White House by the British, and the flight of Dolly Madison. After Dr. LoveU's death the house was bought by Francis P. Blair, editor of the Globe, the official organ of the Jackson admin- istration, and became a favorite rendezvous of Senator Ben- ton, Van Buren, Levi Woodbury, Silas Wright, etc. The Blair House was leased to George Bancroft, while Acting Secretary of War, and it was while living here that Bancroft gave orders for General Zachary Taylor to cross the Rio Grande and invade Mexico. Subsequent tenants were: John Y. Mason of Virginia, Secretary of the Navy under Tyler; and next Senator Thomas Ewing of Ohio. Senator Ewing had, in 1829, adopted William T. Sherman, and secured him a cadetship at West Point. The Blair House, during Ewing's tenacy, was the scene (1850) of the marriage of Sherman and Miss Ellen Ewing. The ceremony was attended by President Fillmore and his Cabinet, Clay, Webster and other notables. Blair's son, Montgomery Blair, Postmaster General under Lincoln, inherited the house and occupied it many years. The second historic house is No. 1653, the Lee Mansion, a three-story brick dwelling with mansard roof, residence of the late Rear Admiral Lee. Before the Civil War, General Robert E. Lee was a frequent visitor at both the Blair and Lee houses, and it is said that in one of them he received the offer of the command of the United States Army. Andrew Johnson resided here while Vice-President. The building is at present a Department of State Annex, occupied by the Office of the Foreign Trade Advisers. Beyond the Lee Mansion, at the N. E. cor. of Pennsyl- vania Ave. and 17th St., stands the original Corcoran Art Gallery, a red brick structure on the French Renaissance , order, with brownstone trirn (James Renrcvick, arch.). The eleven exterior niches encircling the building at the second story level, were formerly occupied by statues of sculptors SIXTEENTH ST. TO PINKY BRANCH BRIDGE 195 . and artists executed by M. Ezckiel. The building was com- pleted in 1859, but not opened to the public as an Art Gallery until 1873, having been taken over during the Civil War for ; the Quartermaster General's Department. Note the initials "W. W. C." three times repeated, on the main facade and in ^ the pediment a medallion portrait in bronze of William W. . Corcoran. The building is now occupied ;by the Court of Claims of the United States. This Court was established by Act of Congress Feb. 24, 1855, and has genera' ..jurisdiction oi all claims founded upon the Constitution or , the United States or any law of Congress (except for nen- 1, sions), or upon any contract expressed or implied with the ,! Unitecf States Government, or for damages where the plaintiff ) would be entitled to redress in a Court O'f law if the ("Tinted - States were suable. By recent enactments the Court of Claims ^has jurisdiction over certain specified claims arising from the i late \\'oTld War, and it is estimated that such claims will [.ultimately approximate $2,500,000,000. Famous claims adjudi- : Gated in this Court include such important litigation as that of erja- niin Henry Latrobe (1764-1820); 7. George B. Post (bas-relief medal- lion). The visitor should note, as an example of the careful workman- ship of this house, that all the work of this circular vestibule coin- cides with the circumference of the tower, the doors, window sash and glass all being made on the circle. The central hall, even larger than the vestibule, has beneath the first landing of the curving stairs, which as- cend on the east, a north door opening on the old garden enclosed by quaint brick walls. The origmal drawing-room, now used by the Institute for board-meetings and recep- tions, is entered from the hall, on the E. It was here, in front of the mantel at the N. E. end of the room, that Mrs. Dolly Madison used to stand while receiving her guests ; and the most brilliant series of receptions during her whole reign as Mistress of the White House were those of the so- called "Peace Year," 1814-15, which were held in this draw- ing-room. The original dining-room, on the opposite side of the hall, is at present occupied by the. Archaeological Institute of America. Here the general work of the Archaeological Institute is carried on, its records kept, and the plans and photographs of its Schools, sites of excavations, etc., are exhibited. The Archaeological Institute of America, founded in 1879 and incorporated in 1906, now includes 50 affiliated societies, 40 in the United States and 10 in Canada, with a total membership of over 3100. Besides its many other activities, it publishes the American Journal of Archaeology. The circular room on the second floor, directly above the entrance vestibule, now the office of the .Secretary of 1 NEW YORK AVE. TO THE ,NAVAL HOiSPITAL 213 the Institute of Architects, was once the private study of President Madison; and here on February i8th, 1815, the President signed the Treaty of Ghent, which ended the war of 1812. The rooms above the old dining-room are now occu- pied by ofhces of the American Academy in Rome and the American Federation of Arts, an organization dating from 1909 and already comprising upward of 200 Chapters. The other rooms on this floor are occupied by various offices of the Institute. Opposite the Octagon House, at S.E. cor. of New York Ave. an.d 18th St., is the site where, more than a century ago, Dr. William Thornton had a city garden. W^est of the Octagon House is the new ^Department of the Interior Building (PI. TI — B4), occupying the entire block bounded by E and F, i8th and 19th Sts. The structure is approximately 400 ft. long by 392 ft. wide, is E-shaped, and is. six stories high on the principal or F St. fagade (the limit of height under D. C. regulations for residential sections), but is increased to seven stories in the rear (E St.) by dropping grade. On the E St, front, midway between the wings, are entrance driveways leading down to the two great courts, the pave- ment of which is at basement level. Accordingly the court elevations' show eight stories. The building contains 500,000 sq. ft.- of ofifice space, divided into 737 rooms, with accom- modations for upward of 1700 employees. The Secretary of the Interior's duties include supervision of the General Land Office. Reclamation Service, Ceological Survey, Bureau cf Mines, Office of Indian Affairs, Patent Office. Bureau of Pensions, Bureau of Education. National Park Service and certain hospitals and other institutions within the District. He also exercises certain powers and duties in relation to Alaska and Hawaii; and is authorized to I adjust and pay claims against the U. S. Fuel Administration audi alfo icilaims filed under the War Minerals Relief Act. The Bureaus of Pensions and of Education occupy the iPension iBuilding (p. 139) and the Patent Office also has its own home (p. 142). The remaining divisions are all |housed in the new Interior Building, as follows : I I. Thq Geological Siirz'ey occupies almost the entire F St. front, logether with the central wing, pressroom wing and half of each of the two-story southern links. Its activities include the making of a geologic map of the United States, an annual collection of statistics of nineral iproduction, and investigations relating to surface and underground l.vaters. z. The General .Laud Office occupies the entire west wing, |xcepting the top fioor. 3. The Reclamation Service occupies the top I, oor of the west wing. Its duties comprise the survey, construction and I'peration of irrigation works in the arid states. 4. The Bureau of niucs has the lower stories of the east wing, and half of the easterly nithern link. 5. The Bureau of Indian Affairs occupies the third and iourth floors of the north wing. |] 214 RIDER'S WASHINGTON The offices of the Secretary of the Interior take up the remaining two upper Hoors of the north wing. The Public Office is notable for its artistic finish, being wainscotted from floor to ceiling in paneled English oak, with a molded ribbed plaster ceiling, recessed windows, and simple Tudor mantel, with paneled oak overmantel. The library and auditorium (the latter having a seating capacity of 300) are separate buildings projected into the courts, and accessible from the public corridor on the first. In the south part of the east court is the press-room, containing the great color presses of the map-making division of the Geological Survey. Opposite the Interior Building, at the N.W. cor. of i8th and F St., is a dwelling occupied successively by Chief Justice John Alarshall, Richard Wallach, Mayor of Washington dur- ing 1861-68, and Chief Justice Melville W. Fuller. One block further N. on i8th St., at S.E. cor. of G St.. are the building and tennis-courts of the Young Men's Christian Association (PI. II — C4). The library in this building is no longer the private property of the Association, but constitutes one of the branches of the Washington Public Library (p. 226), and is open to the ipublic. The tennis-courts on the corner lot occupy the site of an historic residence, a large brick building erected and occupied by Edward Everett when Secretary of State under Fillmore. Subsequently it was successively occupied by Jefferson Davis while Secretary of War under Pierce, and Jacob Thompson, Secretary of the Interior under Buchanan. During the Civil War it was used as Quartermaster's Department of the Army in charge of General Tucker. Next it became the home of Henry A. Wise. U. S. X., son-in-law of Everett; and lastly was rented by the Medical Department of the Navy, i Another old landmark, recently demolished, was the Wirt mansion, which stood a few rods E. of the Everett house. It was first occupied by Tobias Lear, Washington's private Secretary. Later it became the home of the eminent jurist William Wirt, who lived here twelve years while Attorney-General under Monroe and the younger Adams. West on G St., No.j.qi4^s a venerable dwelling built about 1802 by CommodoreTruxton. and later occupied by Lewis Cass. In recent years it became the home of Major- General A. W. Greely, best known for his Arctic exploration. No. 2024 G St. was the home of Daniel S. Lamont. Opposite, occupying most of the block from 20th to 21st St., is George Washington University, one of the oldest and best equipped schools of higher learning at the Capital. It mcludes a preparatory school, departments of under graduate and postgraduate academic studies, the Corcoran Scientific School, and Schools of Law, Medicine and (Dentistry. It is also affiliated with the College of Veterinary Medicine, and the National College of Pharmacy. The names of many prominent members of the Smithsonian Institution and Geological Survey, as well as officers distin- i PENNSYLVANIA AVE. TO ROCK CREEK 215 guished in the technical branches of the Army and Navy are found upon its list of professors and lecturers. The University dates from 1821, when it was established by Act of Congress as a theological school, under the title of Columbian College of the District of Columbia. In 1873 the name was changed to Co- lumbian University, and in 1904 the present name was adopted. The University possesses a small but valuable library (approxi- mately 40,000 ivolumes, exclusive of the law and medical libraries). Its special features are the classsical library of Prof. Curt Wachsmuth of the University of Leipzig, the library of Germanic philology belonging to the late Prof. Richard Heinzel of the University of Vienna, and the "Mount Vernon Alcove" of international law and political science, established by Mr. Andrew Carnegie. ^— — __ „ ^ _ ,— *7 One square S., at No. 2017 F'^t., is the Tioiise in which James Monroe was living when elected President. This 1 house was also, for a time, the home of the famous meteorol- 1 ogist, Cleveland Abbe (p. 237). Three squares W., on the W. side of E St., between 23d and 25th Sts., are the grounds and building formerly occu- pied by the U. S. Naval Observatory (p. 442), and now the Naval Museum of Hygiene. Here is exhibited a collection of appliances used in the Navy for the protection and preserva- tion of human life. In the same grounds a.rethQ Naval Hospital, I the Naval Medical School and the Pay Officers' School. } In the grounds is a monument to Dr. Benjamin Rush 1(1745-1813). a distinguished physician of his day, who ren- dered valiant service during the yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia. He was one of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence. The monument was erected in 1904 by the American Medical Association. JVI. Pennsylvania Avenue from the White House j to Rock Creek |_ This section of Pennsylvania Ave. is historically interest- ling as sharing with the immediate vicinity of the Capitol the distinction of having been one of the earliest residential jzentres. Here were erected the historic "Six Buildings" and "Seven Buildings," in which scores of members of Congress were glad to find an abiding place. Here also, a little later, vas the Franklin House, one of the most celebrated of early W^Hshington hotels. Today there is comparatively little to interest the stranger, and most points of interest may be ^expeditiously seen from the trolley car during the trip to "l^eorgetown (p. 10). The Mills Building, at S. W. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave., ind 17th St., was named from its owner, Gen. Anson Mills, Retired. Until the completion of the new Department of ^bor Building in 1917, it rortained most of the offices of hat Department, including those of the Secretary of Immi- 2i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON gration, Information, Naturalization. Labor Statistics and the Children's Bureau. Opposite, at the N. W, cor. of 17th St., is the site of the headquarters of General Mansfield during the Civil War. Passes were issued here to cross the Long Bridge and through the Federal lines. During the last quarter of the 19th century a number of Central and South American States had 'their Legations in tha block between 17th and i8th Sts., but the old houses which they occupied have all been replaced by modern structures. No. 1732 Penns3dvania Ave. is the site of the house ii which General Winfield Scott resided. At N. E. cor. of i8th St. is the Hotel Pozvhatan, a ten- story structure of buff brick, recently enlarged (p. 5). Milbiirn Heister & Co., architects. Directly opposite, on the S. E. cor: of i8th St., is the newly erected building of the Interstate Commerce Commission, an eleven-story structure of buff brick and limestone, on the order of the modern loft building. This Co?3imission constitutes a Bureau empowered, under the Act of February 4, 1887, to examine into the management of the business ot all Common Carriers. All interstate traffic is under its jurisdiction. It was formerly located in the Sun Building, 131 7 F St. The new Commerce Building (PI. Ill — ^£3 — No. 39), an eleven-story structure of buff brick, stands at the N. E. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 19th St. It contains the offices of the following Bureaus; i. Foreign and Domestic Commerce: 2. Lighthouses ; 3. ^Navigation ; 4. Steamboat Inspection. Here also is the Labor Statistics Library, Room 201-209 (U. S. Department of Labor), founded in iSS.^?. and now containing approxi- mately 28,000 volumes and pamphlets. Open 9 A. J\L to 4 P. ^L daily, except Sundays and Holidays. Reference library open to all students and investigators of social problems. Opposite, across a triangular square at the S. E. cor. of 19th and H Sts., stands the Volunteer Engine House, still bearing the inscription "Union Engine Instituted 18 15." It is now occupied jointly 'by the surviving members of the original Volunteer Association and by the Association of Oldest Inhabitants. The Association of Oldest Inhabitants was organized December 7, 1865, and has numbered among its Presidents, Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, W. A. Bradley, Dr. J. B. Blake and Theodore W. Noyes, editor of the Star. The declared object of the Association is "to cement and strengthen the interest and associations arising out of a common residence for a long period in the same locality, to keep alive the remembrances of the l>ast, and the social and paternal communion of the present and the future." Requirements: local residence of 35 years, and age of 50 years and upward. Since the Veteran Volunteer Fireman's Association must in- evitably be extinguished through death, this building, assigned by Act PENINSYLVANIA AVE. TO ROCK CREEK 217 of Congress, is destined to become the exclusive possession of the "Oldest Inhabitants." The Association possesses a museum which contains among other historic relics the surveyor's chain, used in laying out the streets and avenues of Washington. At N. W. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 19th St., Nos. 1901-1913, still stand the historic "Seven Buildings," com- pleted about 1800. The corner house was the State Depart- ment when John Marshall was Secretary. James Madison occupied it as the Executive Mansion, 1815-17, during the restoration of the White House (p. 112), and after his tem- porary stay in the Octagon House (p. 212). Elbridge Gerry and Martin Van Buren occupied it when vice-presidents, and Robert J. Walker when Secretary of the Treasury. Here also Gen. George B. McClellan had his headquarters in 1861. In this row( also lived General Trureau de Garambonville, Minister of France, in 1804, and Gen. John Armstrong, George W. Campbell, James K. Paulding and Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Cabinet officers. In 1 81 6 No. 1905 becam-ei the residence of Jose Correa da Serra, first Portuguese Minister to the United States. In 1864 it was occupied by Chevalier Joseph Tjertinatti. Minister Resident of Italy. The N. W. cor. of 21st and I Sts. is historic. Here, about 1800, one William O'Neale opened a public house, which became a favorite stopping place for Congressmen from Tennessee; among others. Senator Williams and Repre- sentatives Claiborne, Hogg, Marr and Rhea. Here General Eaton, from 181 1 onward, and later General Jackson, made their home. Here also Vice-President Clinton died April I2th, 1812. This hotel was called at first O'Neale's Hotel, and later the Franklin House. About 1823 John Gadsby, who had been a successful landlord in Alexandria (p. 516) and Baltimore, bought out the hotel and 'clonducted it until 1828, when he leaded the National (p. 100)."^ The chief historic interest connected with O'Neale's Hotel centers in the proprietor's daughter, Margaret, popularly known as Peggy O'Neale. In 1816, while still a mere girl, she married John B. Timber- lake, a purser in the U. S. Navy. He died in 1824. She married for the second time, 1829, General Eaton, Secretary of War under Jack- son. This marriage precipitated a social war in Washington. Accusa- tions against the lady's good name were made openly, both in Cabinet circles and in the New York Ave. Presbyterian Church, which she attended. The ladies of the Cabinet refused to recognize her. Presi- dent Jackson instituted an investigation and championed her cause, to the extent of sending home a favorite niece then acting as mistress of the White House, who was obdurate in her refusal to receive Mrs. Eaton. The President thought that he saw a way out of the dilemma by appointing General Eaton Minister to France; but this the General declined, refusing to retreat under fire. Incidentally, the New York Ave. Presbyterian Church was split in two, and between resignations on both sides the minister found himself preaching to an almost empty house. Subsequently General Eaton was appointed Minister to Spain; and here, for a few years, Peggy O'Neale probably enjoyed the happiest [period of her life. After her husband's death she received, in her 2i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON later years, in some measure the social recognition that had earlier been denied her. Her crowning folly was her third marriage. An Italian, Antonio Buchignani, who claimed to be a Count, and who established a dancing school in Washington, not only won her elderly affections, but cajoled her into transferring to him the bulk of her property. Thereupon he eloped with his bride's married granddaughter, one Emily Randolph. Peggy O'Xeale rose to the situation, and through legal channels accomplished her own divorce and that of her grand- daughter, and compelled the marriage of the latter with her errant hus- band. She lived on in Washington until her 8oth year, and died at the Lochiel House, 512 9th St., November 8th, 1879. She was buried beside her second husband, General Eaton, m Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 479). The Fratiklin hotel was later converted into dwellinfj houses and known, first as Gadsby's Row, and later as Mc- Blair's Row, and descendants of the Gadsby-McBlair family continued to occupy these houses down to 1906. Nos, 2107-21 17 Pennsylvania Ave. constitute the row for- merly known as the "Six Buildings." In 1800, No. 2107 was the first Navy Office, and here Samuel Houston, Governor of Tennessee, U. S. Senator and first President of Texas, had his residence. Other distinguished occupants of these buildings include: Gen. James Wilkinson, General-in-Chief of the Army, 1796; John Francis Mercer, first president of the C. and O. Canal Co., and James Madison when Secretary of State. Opposite, No. 2106, Is the house in which William B. Magruder, sixteenth Mayor of Washington (1856-57) lived and died. PennsyJ\-ania Ave. intersects New Hampshire Ave. at Washington Circle, the crossing point of 23d and K Sts, In the centre ot this Circle stands an Equestrian statue of Wash- ington, upon a pedestal of white marble blocks. This statue, modeled by Clark Mills, was unveiled February 22, tSSo. It is intended to represent Washington as nearly as possible as he appeared at the Battle of Princeton. The face was modeled from the head done by Iloudon; the uniform was copied from one actually worn by Washington; and the trappings of the horse were taken from those represented by Trumbull, who was one of Washington's Aides. On the S. E. side of Washington Circle, W. of New Hampshire Ave., is St. Ann's Infant Asylum. The eastern section of this building is an old private residence dating back to the early 20's. It was originally build by a Captain Kuhn of the Marine Corps. Later it was occupied as the Legation by Fox, the British Minister, and nephew of Charles Fox, the famous statesman. At 2Sth and L Sts. is the Columbia Hospital for Women {Nathan C. Wyeth, architect). Opposite, at S. E. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 25th St. is St. Stephen's Catholic C/»«rc/i, organized in 1865. The building is of red pressed brick, on the Byzantine order of architecture. The United States Weather Bureau is situated on the S. side! of M St. between 24th and 25th Sts., directly in the rear of the Columbia Hospital for Women. It is a branch of the' Department of Agriculture, and its chief activities fall under five heads: i. Weather Forecasts and Warnings; 2. River OTHiER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 219 and Flood Forecastings ; 3. Climatological Work; 4. Agricul- tural Meteorology; 5. Vessel Reporting. History. Early attempts to interest Congress in the establishment of a National Weather Bureau met with little response. On September ist, 1869, Dr. Cleveland Abbe inaugurated daily weathef forecasts for the Cincinnati Chamber of Commerce; and the success of this ex- periment resulted in an Act of Congress, dated February 9th, 1870, authorizing and requiring the Secretary of War "to provide for taking meteorological observations at the military stations in . . . the United States, and for giving notice on the northern lakes and on the sea coast ... of tlie approach and force of storms." The appropriation bill for 1872 extended the scope of the Weather Bureau by providing "for expenses of storm signals announcing the probable approach and force of storms throughout the United States, for the benefit of Commerce and Agriculture." By an Act dated October ist, 1890, the meteorological work of the Signal Office was transferred to the Department of Agricfulture, and under this Act the present Weather Bureau was created. To the general public the Weather Bureau is best known through its daily forecasts and weather maps. These fore- casts are based upon simultaneous observations of local weather conditions taken daily at 8 A. M. and 8 P. M. (75th meridian time), at approximately 200 stations scat- tered throughout the United States and West Indies, and sup- plemented by daily reports from various other points in the northern hemisphere. Within two hours after the morning observations have been taken, forecasts are telegraphed to 1600 distributing points, from which they are further disseminated by telegraph, telephone, wireless telegraphy and mail. The enormous number of individuals reached by this system is illustrated by the fact that the forecasts are delivered daily by mail to approximately 90,000 addresses, and by telephone to upward of 5,500,000 subscribers. The Weather Bureau Library (which 'has remained sep- arate from the other Bureau libraries of the Agricultural De- partment) includes today upward of 34,000 volumes, includ- ing pamphlets. In meteorology and climatology it is be- ilieved to be stronger than any other library in the world. I Regulations. Open daily, except Sundays and Holidays, from 9 ;A. M. to 4 P. M. It is a reference library, intended primarily for the 'officials and staff of the Bureau, but ovitsiders engaged in scientific ^investigations are welcome to use it. ! VII. Other Residential Avenues and Streets a. Vermont Avenue Vermont Avenue runs N. N. E. from Lafayette Square jand H St. to Florida Ave., a distance of about one and one- third miles, and is interrupted by McPherson Square and Thomas and loiva Circles. I On W. side from H to I Sts. is the Arlington Building, I low housing the Veterans' Bureau (p. 190). 220 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Between I and K Sts. is McPherson Sq., containing a bronze equestrian statue, heroic size, of Maj.-Gen. James B. McPherson (1828-64). James T. Rohisso, sculptor. The figure, 14 ft. in height, represents the General as surveying a battlefield. On one panel is inscribed the single word "Atlanta," the scene of McPherson 's death. The statue, made from Confederate cannon captured in Georgia, was erected by the Society of the Grand Army of the Tennessee, at a cost of $48,000. Unveiled 1876. Facing the square, at N. W. cor. of I St., is the home of the University Club, a handsome six-story structure of buff brick and limestone, designed by George Oakley Totteti. Note the terra-cotta medallions on E. and S. fagades, con- taining the seals of the principal Universities. The University Club, composed, as its name implies, of the gradu- ates of American Colleges and Universities, has a present membership of over 1450, of which 925 are resident members. Its declared objects are "educational, literary, musical and scientific, for the promotion of the Arts and for mutual improvement." The smaller entrance door, at west end of the I St. fagade, gives admission to the Club Annex, con- taining parlor and restaurant, where the wives and daughters of mem- bers may entertain their friends. Directly across McPherson Park, at N. E. cor. of 15th and I Sts., is the Hotel Bellevue (p. 5). At the N. E. cor. of Vermont Ave. and K St. is the 8-story building now occupied by the Department of Justice. Portraits of former Attorneys General offer the only attrac- tion to sightseers. Open to visitors week days, from 9 a. m. to 2 p. m. In the block N. of K St. are several historic homes. No. 1014 is the former residence of Joseph G. Cannon when Speaker of the House. No. 1016 was once the Hayti Lega- tion. No. 1022 was the home of James Wilson, for sixteen 3^ears Secretary lof Agriculture. Opposite, on E. side, is the Arlington, a recently opened Apartment Hotel. No. 1 120 is The Burlington, one of the largest Apart- ment Houses on the Avenue. Adjoining, on the N., No. 1122, is the former home of Supreme Court Justice William B. Woods (1824-87). Prior to 1880 it was for a time the Jap- 1 anese Legation. No. 1124 was formerly the home of Senator 1 William B. Allison. At Thomas Circle, 14th and M Sts., Vermont and Massa- chusetts Aves. intersect (p. 228). On S. side of Circle, at an' angle formed by 14th St. and Vermont Ave., is the Portland j (p. 5), a residential hotel. Here at various times have I lived Secretary of the Navy Charles J. Bonaparte, Secretary i of the Navy John D. Long, Senator Albert J. Beveridge and ' Secretary of Agriculture J. Sterling Morton, the originator J of "Aribor Day." It was the first apartment building in^l Washington (erected 1880). OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS jji In the N. triangle formed by Massachusetts and Vermont Aves., and directly in front of the Lutheran Memorial Church, stands the "^Martin Luther Statue of bronze, heroic size, erected by the Lutheran Church of America at a cost of $10,000. This justly admired statue was cast in Ger- many from the same molds as Rietschels center-piece of the memorial at Worms. The Lutheran Memorial Church is a pleasing structure in ornate Gothic, the cornerstone of which was laid in 1870. The spacious auditorium is almost elliptical in shape, and contains so'me interesting memorial windows. The best of these, in memory of the Rev. Henry N. Pohlmann, D.D., "Eor 53 years a faithful minister of Christ," contains the full- length figure of Luther, "The liberator of modern thought." Other windows contain medallion portraits : W. side, John Knox; Calvin; Ulric Zwingli ; John Wesley; E. side, Gus- tavus Adolphus; John Huss; John Wicklif; Philip Mel- ancthon. East on N St., No. 1310, is now (1922) the office of the Japanese Embassy. One block N. on Vermont Ave., W. side, just above N St., is the Vcruwnt Avenue Christian Church, a commodious Gothic structure of red brick, popularly known as the Gar- field Memorial Church, and constituting in the District of Columbia the Mother church of the Christian or Campbellite Faith. During the many years that Garfield served in Congress, he worshiped- in a little frame chapel which stood on the site of the present church. W'hen he was elected President, the Society determined to erect a new church which should 'be the leading one of this Faith in the country. The old 'pew occupied by Garfield while President has been marked Iwith a tablet, and stands in the N. W. cor. of the present rhurch, adjoining the door leading into the Sunday School. Above this door is an admirable bronze tablet by U. S. J. punbar, portraying the Rev. Frederick D. Power, the pastor i)f the church in Garfield's time. In the Church Parlor may !)e seen a photograph of the original chapel, and the Sexton (Vill point out the window through which the assassin |juiteau had planned to fire his fatal shot, only a week or wo befor.e the actual murder ; he happened to choose one of he very few Sundays when Garfield was absent from service. At Iowa Circle, 13th and P Sts., Vermont and Rhode sland Aves. intersect. In the centre of this Circle is the questrian bronze monument, heroic size, to Gen. John A. -ogan. It was erected at a cost of $65,000, of which $15,000 222 RIDER'S WASHINGTON was given by the Societ}- of the Army of Tennessee, and the balance by Congress. (Franklin Sirmnons, sculptor.) The statue surmounts a massive and highly ornamental bronze pedestal, resting on a base of pink granite. At the N. and S. ends of the pedestal are two bronze female figures, symbolizing respectively America in War and in Peace. On the sides of the pedestal are two large groups in relief representing: (W. side) General Logan presiding at a Council of War; (E. side) Vice-President Logan taking Oath of Office. North of Iowa Circle, No. 1503 Vermont Ave., was the home of Norman J. Colma.n, the first Secretary of Agriculture. North of this point the Avenue is occupied largely by negroes, and offers nothing of interest to the tourist. b. Connecticut Avenue Connecticut Avenue, running N. N. W. from Lafayette Square, measures, inclusive of its new extension to ChevA' Chase Circle at the District Line, approximately five miles. The lower section has been spoiled for residential purposes by the encroachment of retail business, and the squares immediately N. of K St. constitute Washington^'s principal "Automobile Row." North from Dupont Circle, however, the Avenue passes through the heart of the newer residential section, where may be seen many of the finest dwellings and apartment houses in. the city. The N. E. cor. of Connecticut Ave. and H vSt. is occu- pied by the site of the old Corcoran Mansion, lately acquired by the National Cham'ber of Commerce (p. 191). Immediately adjoining on N., No. 815 (S. E. cor. of I St.), is the Rochambcau, one of the largest of Washington's apartment houses. Here, from time to time, have been housed a number^ of the South American Legations. At the intersection of the Avenue with 17th St., between! I and K Sts., is Farragut Square, containing a colossal bronze statue of .A.dmiral Daxid Glasgow Farragut, modeled by Mrs. Vinnie Ream Hoxie, and cast at the( Washington] Navy Yard, from metal taken from Farragut's flag-ship, thci Hartford. The standing figure, ten feet in height and sur- mounting a twenty-foot granite pedestal, represents Farragut) in naval uniform with a telescope, watching the enemy s movements. It was, unveiled in 1881. No. 1015 Connecticut Ave. has been successively the home of the Legations of Belgium, Austria-Hungary, Ita!> and Costa Rica. At L St. and Connecticut Ave. (E. side) is Stoncleiuhi Court, another of the most important apartment housesi which, from time to time, has housed a number of foreignj OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 223 Legations, including (1922) Portugal and Nicaragua; here also was the home of James Wilson, late Secretary of Agri- culture. At the N. E. cor. of Connecticut Ave. and De Salles St is the Grafton Hotel (p. 5). At the S. E. cor. of M St. and Connecticut Ave. is The Connecticut, an apartment house in which Justice Joseph McKenna, of the U. S. Supreme Court, resides. Connecticut Ave. intersects i8th St., between M and N Sts., forming two small triangular parks. In the S. triangle is a monument to the poet Henry W. Longfellow, consisting of a seated bronze figure, heroic size, clad in Academic gown, and surmounting a pedestal of polished pink granite. It w'as the gift of the Longfellow National Memorial Association, and was unveiled in 1909. William Conpcr, sculptor. In the N. triangle is a statue of John Witherspoon (1722-94), a Scottish-American Presbyterian minister, and once President of Princeton University. He was the only .clergyman among the Signers of the Declaration of Inde- pendence. The statue was presented in 1909 by the Wither- iSpoon Memorial Association. William Couper, sculptor. I On the north side of the pedestal is the following quotation from Witherspoon's utterances: "For my own part, of property I have some, of reputation more. That reputation is staked, that property is pledged on the issue of this contest; and although these gray hairs must soon descend into the sepulchre, I would infinitely rather that they descend thither by the land of the executioner than desert at this crisis the sacred cause of Iny country." ^ The Presbyterian Church of the Covenant, at the S. E. br. of N and i8th Sts., directly faces the Witherspoon nonument. Owing to a lack of any Presbyterian church con- jeniently adjacent to the newer residential section, this church vas organized by a group of prominent men including Alatthew alt, William Walter Phelps and James G. Blaine. The church edifice was approaching completion in 1889, when one ight the tall white tower crumbled to the earth, destroying a large part i the body of the church, and postponing the completion for many tionths. j Two of the windows in this church are memorials given by Mrs. ,eed, sister of the late Admiral Dahlgren. They represent: i. The nnunciation; 2. The Adoration of Magdalen. President Benjamin Harrison attended service in this church. The British Embassy (No. 1300) stands directly W. of le Church of the Covenant, at the N. W. cor. of Connecticut iye. and N St., running back to 19th St. The visitor cannot jiij to recognize over the entrance doorway the familiar ritish crest, in bronze, of the Lion and the Unicorn. Here, if 224 RIDER'S WASHINGTON during his term of office, resided the Hon. James Bryce, author of "The American Commonwealth." This was the first of the foreign Embassies and Legations to build and own a permanent residence in Washington. It dates from the Lite 70's. The German Embassy, No. 1423-37 Mas^^achusetts Ave., was the next to follow suit. No. 1331 Connecticut Ave. is the home of Alexander Graham Bell, the inventor of the telephone. His father, Dr. Alexander Melville Bell, founder of the Volta Bureau (p- 475)' died in this house. No. 1339 is now (1922) the Legation of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. At intersection of Connecticut Ave. with P and i8th Sts.. Massachusetts and New Hampshire Aves. is Dupont Circle, named after Admiral Samuel Francis Dupont (1803-1865). In centre is a Memorial Fountain (Daniel Chester French, sculp- tor ; Henry Bacon, arch.), replacing former statue of the Admiral (by Laitnt Thompson), now in Delaware. At the intersection of Connecticut Ave. and California St., in a small triangular park, stands a monument to Gen. George B. McClellan (1826-88), the joint gift of Congress and the Society of the Army of the Potomac, dedicated 1907. Frederick MacMonnies, sculptor. Directly W. of thei McClellan monument stands The Highlands, an ap>artment house, designed by Arthur B. Heatan, which has housed, among others, the Guatemala and Panama Legations. At No. 1800 Connecticut Ave., cor. of S St., is now (1922) the Netherlands Legation; and a little beyond, at No. 1838, is the Greek Legation. West of Connecticut Ave., near the cor. of S St. and Phelps Place, is the site of the historic estate of Kalorama, once the home of the poet and diplomat, Joel Barlow. Count Rumford and Robert Fulton were both visitors here. | In a barn baak of the house Fulton is said ta have madqi his fir^t] steamboat in 1806, local joiners and blacksmiths doing the work. The! boat was launched in the mill-pond of Rock Creek (to which the estate j tlien extended) and the experiment was pronounced a success a yearl before the launching of the Cleriiioyit on the Hudson. Kalorama (t. e., "Beautiful View") was a forty-acre tract lying^ between what is now Connecticut Ave. and Rock Creek, and forming part of the old Holmead estate. The historic mansion, standing ap- proximately on the site of the William A. Mearn's house, was erected' about 1750, and its foundation walls, built, according to tradition, of English brick, were so thick and substantial that they gave promise of lasting for centuries. In 1794 this Holmead Mansion, including the forty-acre tract, was bought by one Gustavus Scott, of Maryland and shortly afterwards passed into the possession of William Augustine Washington, who remodeled the house and added a spacious cast win^ containing drawing-rooms and a banquet hall. He had intended tc make it a permanent home, but succumbed to the temi)tation of '<■ $14,000 offer made by Joel Barlow, to whom he conveyed the propertj in 1807. Once again the Mansion was extensively remodeled undc OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 225 the joint advice of Latrobe and Robert Fulton, the inventor, who was a close personal friend of Barlow. The grounds were laid outi anew, and there were erected a pretty Greek lodge, designed by Latrobe* after an Ionian Temple, and a summer-house, designed by Fulton, which stood on the brow of the hill, at the present intersection of 24th and U Sts. The family mausoleum (where Commodore Decatur found a temporary resting place) was situated in a grove at what is now the intersection of Florida and Massachusetts Aves. When Barlow was appointed Minister to France, in iSii, the house was leased to the French Minister Serurier. Barlow never re- turned home. He died in 1812 while following the fortunes of Napoleon, and was buried in Zarnivica, Poland. Although almost forgotten now. Barlow in his time was recognized as America's greatest poet, and his Coliiuibiad, dedicated to Fulton, was regarded as a great National epic. Kalorama was occupied by Barlow's widow until her death in 18 1 8, after which it became the property of her brother-in-law, George Bonford, who for thirty years worthily supported its traditions as a centre of hospitality and fashionable life. After many vicissitudes the Mansion was demolished m 1889, and the estate cut up into city blocks. Today nothing remains as a landmark excepting the two names, Kalorama Road and Decatur St., marking approximately the northern and southern limits of Kalorama. Adjacent on S St., No. 2040, is now (1922) the Ccccho- slozvkian Legation. Four blocks N. of S St., Connecticut Ave. intersects Wyoming Ave. East on Wyoming Ave., No. 185 1, was the residence of Josephus Daniels while Secretary of the Navy. North from here Connecticut Ave. curves slightly west- ward, between a series of apartment houses, to the eastern bank of Rock Creek. The Connecticut Ave. bridge, com- pleted in 1906, was designed by George S. Morrison, under 'supervision of Edzvard P. Casey, consulting architect. At sach end of the bridge are a pair of Lions, moulded in con- :rete, which critics have described as ''presumably modeled 'from an extremely old lion, dragged from his cage in a dying condition." The sculptor has wisely refrained from jittaching his signature. The rather fine series of bronze i;tandards which support the electric lamps, at the approach iind throughout the bridge, were designed by the /. L. Mott Vo., New York. 5 (For Connecticut Ave. Extended see p. 440) •i c. Massachusetts Avenue *Massachusetts Avenue starts opposite the District Alms ^^ouse at 19th and D Sts. S. E., and runs in a northwesterly lirection parallel to and about half a mile N. of Pennsylvania Vve., to 23d and R Sts. N. W., from which point its extension "uns due N. W. to the District boundary. Its course is inter- "upted by Lincoln Sq. (p. 366), Stanton Sq. (p. 366), the Jnion Station Plaza (p. 358), Mt. Vernon Sq. (p. 226), Thomas 226 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Circle (p. 220) Scott Circle (p. 200) and Dupont Circle (p. 224). Total length about eight miles. Until recently Massachusetts Ave., between 9th St. and Rock Creek, had for a quarter of a century been a leading residential street, especially favored by the foreign Diplomatic Corps. The steady trend of fashionable life northward has already materially changed the aspect of the Avenue, and there are a notable number of vacant houses.^ The German Embassy still remains here in lonesome isolation. Although its prestige is already waning, Massachusetts Ave. is one of the comparatively modern streets. It is interesting to read the im- pressions of the English novelist, Anthony Trollope, recorded as late as 1862: "Massachusetts Ave. runs the vi'hole length of the city, and is inserted in the maps as a full-grown street about four miles in length. Go there, and you will find yourself not only ou* of town away among the fields, but you will find yourself beyond the fields in an uncultivated, unchained wilderness. Tucking your trousers up to your knees, you will wade through the bogs; you will lose yourself among rude hillocks; you will be out of reach of humanity." There is little of interest on the Avenue between North Capitol and 9th Sts. Between 'North Gapitol and ist Sts., on N. side is the Hotel Harris (p. 4). Where the Avenue intersects H and 3d Sts., and again at I and 6th Sts., are two small triangular parks. The Public Library of the District of Columbia (PI III — E-IV — No, 73) occupies the cen)ter of .Mt. Vernon Square, at the intersection of Massachusetts and New York Aves. The white marble building, on the classic order, was the gift of the late Andrew Carnegie, and was constructed under the supervision of Bernard R. Green, superintendent of construction for the Library of Congress. History. The establishment oi the Public Library was largely due to the efforts of Theodore W. Noyes, editor of the Evening Star, who( has been president of the Library's board of trustees ever since its establishment. The library was created by the Act of June 3, 1896; and a nucleus of 12,412 volumes was provided by the Washington City Free Library, a voluntary institution supported by private contributions, which turned over its collection when an appropriation for opening the new library was made in 1898. The central library building, formally dedicated Jan. 7, 1903, cost $375,000. Mr. Carnegie also offered $350,000 i (or more if needed) for branch library buildings, the first of which, the Takoma Park Branch, was accepted by permission of Congress, anti , opened Nov., 1911; the second, the Southeastern Branch, costing $67,000, \ will be ready late in 1922; located 7th St. & Penn. Ave. S. E. Owing to the lack of a full system of branches, the Public Library i utilizes more than 150 other agencies for the distribution of books, including various deposit stations in social settlements; in the central Y. M. C. A. building; the District Building; seven public high-school' libraries; 85 graded schools, etc. It circulates more than 1,000,000 volumes annually. The library is supported almost wholly from Con- gressional appropriations. It hasi had but two chief librarians: Weston Flint, until 1904, and since then George F. Bowerman. OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 227 Resources. Approximately 250,000 volumes; also a large collection of newspaper and magazine cuttings, aomprising very useful material, especially that relating to the history of Washington; about 60,000 unmounted pictures and 135 maps relating td the District of Columbia. A portrait of Theodore W. Noyes, ipresident of the Board of trustees, has recently been hung in the main delivery room. • Richard S. Meriman, artist. At the N. W. cor. of Massachusetts Ave. and 9th St., diagonally facing the Sq., stands the new home of the American Federation of Labor (founded 1881). It is a seven-story structure of limestone, terra-cotta and huff brick, resting upon a granite foundation. (Milburn, Heistcr & Co., architects.) The cornerstone bears the inscription, "This edi- fice erected for service in the cause of Labor — Justice — Freedom — Humanity, 1915-1916." On the 9th St. fagade is the Seal of the Society in terra-cotta, showing the globe with two hands clasped across the sea, with the motto, Labor omnia vincit. The President of this organization is Samuel Gompers. The American Federation of Labor, now 36 years old, has in its affiliations 86 National and International Trade Unions, which have in turn upward of 30,000 local branches, with a membership of approxi- mately 1,882,500; also 489 Federal local Unions with 23,763 members. Of course the so-called Labor Movement in the United States goes far back of 1881. Some of the Unions are quite old^^ as, for instance, the International Typographical Union of Washington, D. C, which dates from 1852. Some of the local Trade Unions which make up the National organizations afifiliated with the Federation, date back more than a century. For example, the Washington (D. C.) Printer's Union was organized in 1815. Opposite the Federation building, at the angle between Massachusetts Ave. and K. St., stands the National Methodist Episcopal Church .South, erected at a cost of approximately $250,000. The Church of the Ascension, at the N. W. cor. of Massachusetts Ave. and 12th St., dates from 1874. It is on the order of early English decorated Gothic, of gray lime- stone, with brownstone trim. History. The church was organized in 1844, in a small school- house at the corner of 9th and H Sts. The first church edifice was erected on H St., between 9th and loth Sts., on grounds now occupied by the Medical Department of Georgetown University, and was due chiefly to the generosity of Mrs. John Van Ness (Marcia Burnes). The first rector was Dr. Pinckney (subsequently P. E. Bishop of Mary- land, and nephew of the famous Maryland lawyer, William Pinckney). He was a life-long friend of William W. Corcoran, who was a member of the Vestry, and who subsequently erected the monument in memory I of Dr. Pinckney in Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 479). During the War of , the Rebellion, Dr. Pinckney, being a South^'rn symi)atlnzer, gave I offence to the Government by refusing to pray for northern victory. j Consequently he found himself one Sunday debarred from entering his I church by a guard standing with fixed bayonets. Dr. Pinckney subse- quently pleaded that his refusal to offer such prayers was based upon a 228 RIDER'S WASHINGTON church law prohibiting any addition to or subtraction from the prescribed service of the church; and in this he was sustained by the House of Bishops. No. 131 1, former home of Mr. E. Francis Riggs, banker (for many years partner of W. W. Corcoran). No. 13 12, Academy of the Holy Cross No 13 14, former home of Mr Justice Morris of the District Supreme Court No. 13 18, former home of J. Stanley-Brown, Secretary to President Garfield, and his wife, Mollie Garfield. No. 1326, former residence of Robert T. Lincoln, Secretary of War under Arthur. In Thomas Circle, situated at the intersection of Massa- chusetts and Vermont Aves. and 14th St., is a notable equestrian bronze *statue, heroic size, of Maj. -General George H. Thomas (born 1816), by /. Q. A. Ward. The statue was erected in 1879 by the Society of the Army of the Cumber- land, at a cost of $40,000. It is supported by a pedestal uf Virginia granite 16 ft. high, which was the gift of Congress, and cost $25,000. No. 1406 Massachusetts Ave. is the present Venezuelan Legation. No. 1407 Massachusetts Ave. was the residence of the late Kt. Rev. Henry Y. Satterlee, the first Protestant Episcopal Bishop of Washington. No. 1413, former residence of Thomas F. Bayard, Secretary of State, and first Ambassador to Great Britain. Senators William B. Allison and Shelby M. Cullum also once resided here. No. 1421, former resi- dence of S H. Kaufman, proprietor of the Evening Star. No. 141 5, former residence of Samuel F. Miller, Justice of the Supreme Court during 1862-90. Nos. 1423-37, the German Embassy. No. 1445, former residence of the late Spencer F. Baird, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution. No. 1500, now occupied by ex-Vice-President Levi P. Morton, was former residence of Elihu Root while Secretary of State. No. 151 5, former residence of George Shiras, Justice of the Supreme Court during 1892-1903. ^ The Louise Home occupies the block on the S. side of the Avenue, between 15th and i6th Sts. It was' founded by William W. Corcoran as a Home for aged gentlewomen who have met with reverses, and was named in memory of his wife (Louise Morris) and his daughter Louise, who married Hon. George Custis of Louisiana. The Louise Home, consisting of three stories and a mansard, was designed by G. E. Lind, of Baltimore. It contains a portrait of Mrs. Ogle Tayloe, by Daniel Huntington. At Scott Circle (p. 200) Massachusetts Ave. intersects Rhode Island Ave., N and i6th Sts. No. 1 601 Massachusetts Ave. was the home of the late Willian. Windhaiin when Secretary of the Trea>ury. No. 1603, former home of the late Stilson Ilutchins, fo^r many years proprietor of the Washington Post. No. 1621, former home of Ainsworth R. Spofford, for thirty-three years Librarian of the Congressional Library. No. 1631 is now' (1922) the Legation of the Dominican Rct>iiblic. Southwest corner of i7tli St., light stone building, is the old home of Beriah Wilkins, editor and proprietor of the ll'ashi}igtoit Post. Opposite No. 1701, residence of Redfield Proctor when Secretary ut War; later the home of Bisihop Hearst. No. 1707 is now (1922) the Bolivian Legation. No. 1708, first Washington home of Thomas' Nelson Page (1894-97). No. 1709, former home of William Gibiis Mc.Adoc,, Secretary of the Treasury. No. 1714, formerly occupied (about 188b) by the Legation of Sweden and Norway. No, 1715, the present Greek Legation. No. 1730, former Spamish Legation (about 1890). No. 1735. 1 home of William Crozier, Brig-General and Chief of Ordnance. OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 229 The Force Public School, Nos. 1738-44, a red brick struc- ture on the S. side of the Ave., is one of the most notable primary schools in Washington because of the many sons of famous men who have attended it. The list includes : James Garfield, grandson of President Garfield ; Theodore, Archibald and Quentin Roosevelt, sons of President Roosevelt ; and Charles Taft, son of ex-President (now Chief Justice) Taft. In the school yard is a memorial tree planted for Quentin Roosevelt, who died in the Air Service in France during the World War. No. 1765, for twenty-five years the Washington home of Senator Henry Cabot Lodge. No. 1770, the later home (from 1890 onward) of Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett. No. 1780, now occupied (1922) by the Belgian Embassy. Northeast corner of i8th St.: here for several years was tho Spanish Legation, down to the outbreak of the War in 1898. Diagonally opposite, No. 1800 Massachusetts Ave., is the former home of the late Chief Justice Melville W. Fuller. It was subsequently occupied by Senator Charles W. Fairbanks; and in 19 10 was^ the Argentine Legation. At 19th and P Sts., where Massachusetts, Connecticut and New Hampshire Aves. intersect, is Dupont Circle (p. 224), No. 1915 Massachusetts Ave. is the former residence of Senator William A. Clark of Montana. No. 2010, residence of Grace Denio Litchfield, the novelist. No. 201 1, until 19 16 the Belgian Legation. No. 2013, former residence of the late Charles M. Ffoulke, whose col- lection of tapestries was ranked as one of the finest private collections in the world. No. 2019 is the residence of Supreme Court Justice Mahlon Pitney. Southeast corner of 21st St., one of Washington's finest private residences, built by the late Thomas F. Walsh, and said to have cost $3,000,000. No. 21 1 1, former home of ex-Senator Edmonds of Vermont. It was occupied from 1895 onward by Mrs. U. S. Grant and her daughter, Mrs. Algernon Sartoris (Nellie Grant). No. 21 18, residence of Larz Anderson, former Minister to Japan. No. 221 1, residence of Mrs. Sheridan, widow of General Philip Sheridan. At 23d and R Sts. the Avenue reaches Sheridan Circle. Here stands the equestrian statue of General Philip Sheridan, by Giitrjon Dorglum, erected by Congress in 1909, at a cost of $60,0000. ^ One square W. on Q St. we reach the new *Rock Creek Bridge (igi6), designed jointly by Glenn Brozvn and his son Bedford Brozvn. It is a curved structure, somewhat on the fashion of a iRoman Aqueduct, but is built exclusively ci American materials and ornamented with American symbol.^. The corbels .start with Indian heads, modeled after the life- mask of "Kicking Bear," now in the 'National Museum. Each end of the bridge is flanked by a pair of American Bison {A. Phimister Proctor, sculptor). (For Massachusetts Avenue Extended see p. 442). 230 RIDER'S WASHINGTON d. The Numbered Streets East of Sixteenth Street Fifteenth Street north from Pennsylvania Avenue. The three blocks on 15th St., from the point where Penn- sylvania Ave. is interrupted by the Executive Grounds, to its resumption where New York Ave. diverges to the N. E., are occupied on L. by the Treasury Building (p. 122). Oppo- site, from Pennsylvania Ave. to F St., is the new Wash- ington Hotel (p. 3). At No. 613 15th St. is the National Metropolitan Bank, a white marble building on the classic order, designed by B. Stanley Simmons. This, the second oldest banking institution in Washington, was organized in 1814 as the Bank of the Metropolis. Its first President was John iP. Van Nessi (p. 170). At the S. E. cor. of 15th and G Sts., on the site of the old Riggs House, stands the Riggs Office Building, an eight- story structure, with a frontage of 116 and 178 ft. respec. tively, designed by /. H. de Sibour. It contains Keith's Theatre (p. 25), the auditorium of which rises to the sixth floor level. The upper floor and roof are occupied by the Natioml Press Club, which, from an original membership of fifty men organized in 1908, now has upward of a thousand members, including some of the most prominent men in the country, such as : the President of the United States, several Cabinet members and the Governors of two states, who prior to hold- ing office had joined the club as writers, reporters or pub- lishers. At the N. E. cor. of 15th St. and New York Ave. is the National Savings and Trust Company, the oldest Savings Bank in the city. Opposite, at the N. W. cor. of 15th St. and Pennsylvania Ave., the American Surety and Trust Company occupies the site of the old Bank of the United States. The intersection of 15th and H Sts. is marked by some of the finest office buildings in Washington. At the S. E. cor. stands the Wood^vard Building. At the S. W. cor. is the Union Trust Company {Wood, Donn and Deming, archi- tects). At the N. E. cor. is the Southern Building. The N. W. cor. is occupied by the Hotel Shoreham (P- 3), one of Washington's leading hotels, occupying the site of a historic dwelling, originally built for Samuel Har- rison Smith of the National IntcUigenccr, and afterwards owned by Representative Samuel Hopper and temporarily;; occupied by Gen. George B. McClcllan when he was restored!: to the Command of the Army of the Potomac by Lincoln in 1862. OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 231 No. 817 15th St. was once the home of Gen. William T. Sherman. No. 821 was the home of James G. Blaine, during" the Hayes administration. Between I and K Sts., 15th St. passes McPherson Square, crossing Vermont Ave. ; for historic houses at intersection With I and K Sts. respectively, see p. 220. On the W. side of 15th St., between L and M Sts., stands St. Augustine's Church, the largest R. C. colored church in the United States, founded in 1863. The present building, dedicated in 1874, contains some interesting windows. Oppo- site, at No. 1 147, is the Episcopal Eye, Ear and Throait Hospital. Grace Reformed Church, at the N. E. cor. of 15th and Sts., was organized in 1877, and was attended by Theodore Roosevelt throughout the years of his official life in- Wash- ington. The present structure, erected in 1901, is of gray limestone, on the Gothic order. Above the main doorway are carved the shields of Zurich and Geneva. The church contains some excellent windows, best seen by afternoon light. The Roosevelt pew is No. 5, on the N. side of the ,central aisle. ; There is nothing of interest to the casual visitor N. of ,this point. 1 Fourteenth Street north from Pennsylvania Avenue. pn W. side, from Pennsylvania Ave. to F St., is the New Willard Hotel (p. 3). Opposite, at S. E. cor. of F St., is the Ehhitt House (p. 3). Just above G St., 14th St. inter- sects New York Ave. East on H St., No, 1333, is the George jV ashing ton Hospital. One block E., at the angle where New York Ave. inter- sects H St., stands the Nezv York Avenue Presbyterian Church, a sombre structure of red brick with brownstone trim. The main entrance, facing E. toward the apex of :he triangle, is adorned with a Roman-Corinthian portico and pediment, and is reached by incongruous curving iron stairways. This church has been attended by many Presidents, including John Juincy Adams, Andrew Jackson, W. H. Harrison, Millard Fillmore, .^ranklin Pierce, James Buchanan, Abraham Lincoln, Andrew Johnson, Benjamin Harrison (before his Presidency) ; also Associate Justice iiarlan. |] At the opposite apex to the E., at 13th St. and New 'iTork Ave., stands the Masonic Temple, a gray limestone tructure, designed by Wood, Bonn and Deming. It con- lains a large auditorium used at present mainly for Ipoving pictures; also the rooms of the Grand Lodge Library 2Z^ RIDER'S WASHINGTON and the George Washington University Law Library. On the N. side of H St, facing the New York Avenue Presbyterian Church, at No. 1335 H St., stands the George Washington Hospital. No. 1325 is the site of the former home of the widbw of Alexander HamiltO'U, first Secretary of the Treasury, North on 14th St. we reach, at I St. (on E.), Franklin Park, occupying the entire square bounded by I and K, 14th and 15th Sts., and comprising approximately four acres. Midway, on the 14th St. side, stands a bronze statue, heroic size, of John Barry, Commodore U. S. N. (1745-1803). It surmounts a lofty white granite base, in front of which, also of white granite, is a female figure representing Freedom, as indicated by the symbolic eagle and Liberty cap (erected 1914. John J. Boyle, sculptor). It is a matter of history that when the Indian tribes of this vicinity met in Counqil on the peninsula formed by the Eastern Branch and the Potomac River, many a war-dance was celebrated in the present Franklin Park. In the early years of the history of Washington it became a truck garden, connected with the Van Ness estate (p. 170). At the outbreak of the Civil War it was the site of the encampment of the 12th New York Volunteers, commanded by Gen. Daniel Butterfield. Diagonally opposite the Park, at the N. E. cor. of 14th and K Sts., is the remodelled Neiv Hamilton Hotel (p. 5) and at N. E. cor. the Franklin Square Hotel (p. 5). One block N., at the S. E. cor. of L. St., formerly stood the All Souls' Unitarian Church. The new church edifice is now in course of erection at i6th and Harvard Sts. (p. 203). History. The First Unitarian Church dates from 1820, when a small congregation met in a room over some public baths on C St., between 4^4 and 6th Sts., to listen to the sermons of a certain Robert Little. In Nov., 1821 the church was organized, its founders including John Quincy Adams, John C. Calhoun, the two Joseph Gales, Sr. and Jr. and William Winston Seaton (the last two named being propri- i etor and editor of the National Intelligencer, Washington's ; pioneer newspaper), and Charles Bulfinch, the architect. The first church edifice, designed by Bulfinch and dedicated • in 1822, stood on the N. E. cor. of 6th and D Sts., where j it served its purpose for 55 years. During this time it ' numbered among its pastors the Rev. Edward Everett Hale ■' (Oct., 1844 to ]^>Iarch, 1845) ; the Rev. Moncure Daniel Con- way (1855-56) : and the Rev. Samuel Longfellow, brother of the poet. The Rev. William Henry Channing was pastor during the Civil War, and was the first clergyman in Wash- ington to offer his church for use as a war hospital. The OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 22,i offer was accepted, and in return the congregation was given the use of the Senate Chamber for Sunday services. The old church bell, said to be the first in the city, and later transferred to the present edifice, was cast in a foundry established by Paul Revere, near Boston. Dr. Shippen, one of the later pastors, says : "Down to 1861 this bell was rung for public purposes. I am informed that it tolled a requiem for John Brown on the day of his death. Thenceforward it was. denounced by some as an abolition bell, and in the exciting times of 1861 its use by the city authorities was discontinued." This earliest church was attended by two Presidents, John Qvixpzy Adams and Millard Fillmore. The second struc- ture, dedicated as All Souls', in place of the earlier name of First Unitarian, was attended for many years by President Taft, who before his election occupied a rear seat near the N. W. cor. The Presidential pew was No. 27, 3d pew on L. of South aisle (the Sexton explaining that this change of pews was necessary, "to keep the congregation from turning their heads to look at the President"). At M St., 14th St. is interrupted by Thomas Circle, wher& Massachusetts and Vermont Ave. intersect. In the centre of the Circle stands a monument* to Gen. George H. Thomas (1816-70). This statue, in bronze, of heroic size (19 ft.), and considered one of the finest equestrian statues in this country, was erected with great ceremony in 1879, by the Society of the Army of the Cumberland (/. Q. A. Ward, sculptor). The total cost was $65,000, to which the fore- named Society contributed $40,000. The balance, furnished by Congress, paid for the cost of the pedestal, including the bronze ornamental lamps, and insignia of the Army of the Cumberland. General Thomas was a West Point graduate, who had fought in the Seminole and Mexican Wars, and had been an instructor at West Point. From Major of Volunteer Cavalry he rose to Maior-General in the regular army, and is remembered as the "Rock of Chickamauga," and hero of Nashville. 1 At the N. apex of 14th St. and Vermont Ave. stands the I statue of Martin Luther (p. 221). I At 14th and N Sts. is the Lutheran Eye, Ear and Throat Infirmary. Just N., at No. 1321, is the Northern Dispensarv \^and Emergency Hospital. At 14th and S Sts. is the Washington City Orphan , Asylum. Here during 1866-67 the State Department was temporarily housed, and here, in 1867, the purchase of Alaska was arranged. 234 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Beyond this point there is nothing of interest to the casual visitor. e. The Numbered Streets West of Sixteenth Street Seventeenth Street north from Pennsylvania Ave- nue. Passing the old Corcoran Art Gallery (p. 194), we reach, at H St., S. W. cor., the five-story club-house of the Metropolitan Club, the wealthiest and most fashionable of the social clubs in Washington. According to the constitu- tion it was organized "for literary, mutual improvement and social purposes." Diagonally opposite, at the N. E. cor. of 17th and H Sts., is the Richmond Hotel (p. 4.), where Sen- ator George F. Hoar formerly lived. Between I and K Sts. 17th St. passes Farragut Square, crossing Connecticut Ave. (p. 222) ; for historic houses at intersection with I and K Sts., see pp. 235 and 237. North of this point there is little to interest the tourist At the S. E. cor. of P St. stands the Plymouth Congrega- tional Church. Just E., No. 1620 P St., is the house in which Prof. Simon Newcomb, America's greatest astronomer, lived and died. East of i8th St. on Rhode Island Ave. is St. Matthew's, one of Washington's leading R. C, churches. At the S. W. cor. of N St. is the former residence of Justice Stanley Matthews (served 1881-89). East on N St., No. 1775, was the residence of Elihu Root, while Secretary of War, and later the home of Senator Chauncey M. Depew. No. 1734 N St. was formerly the Uruguay Legation. West on N St., No. 1810, is the house in which Theodore Roosevelt resided while Assistant Secretary of the Navy. Just beyond. No. 1820 N St., formerly housed the Sivedish Legation. No. 1323 i8th St. is the residence of Robert Lansing, former Secretary of State. The house at the N. E. cor. of P St. was once the home of former Secretary of the Treasury. Daniel Manning. Opposite, at N. W. cor. of P St., is the home of Miss Mabel Thorp Boardman. of world-wide distinc- tion for her services in behalf of the Red Cross Society. East on P St., No. 1763, was the home of Mollie Elliott Sewell. the novelist. Midway between P and Q Sts., at S. E. cor. of i8th and Church Sts., is the attractive little P. E. church of St. Thomas. It contains a number of fine memorial windows : Over Altar, "In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth," Genesis 1, 1 (13 panels). Nave, S. side: i. St. Hilda; 2. St. Aidan (memorial virindow to Maj. E. K. Webster, U.S.A., 1852-1911); 3. St. Augustine; 4. Queen Bertha; 5. St, Colomba; 6. St. Patrick; 1 OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 235 7, St. Alban; 8, Joseph of Arimathea. Nave, N. side; i. Venerable Bede; 2. St. Swithin; 3. Stephen Langton; 4. William Laud; 7- Queen Anne; 8. Bishop Seabury. In vestibule, N. window: "Many shall come from the East," (three panels). S. window: "Thomas said, 'My Lord and my God.'" St. John xx, 28 (three panels). On the E. wall of the N. transept is a memorial tablet to Archibald Gracie, commemorating his rescue from the steamship Titanic, April 15th, 1 91 2, and also the fact that, shortly before his death the following December, he "proclaimed in this church that his ret-cuc was due to the power of prayer." At the N. E. cor. of i8th and Q Sts. is the house in which John Lee Carroll, former Governor of Maryland, lived and died. Midway between Q and R Sts., on Corcoran St., No. 1806, is the Argentine Embassy (1922). East on 18th St., at No. 1759, is the home of Thomas Nelson Page, formerly occupied by the Italian Embassy. No. 1742 R St. is the residence of 'Brig.-Gen. Ernest A. Garlington, who commanded the Grecly Relief Expedition in 1885. Half a mile further N., at the intersection of 18th and Co'lumbia Road, is the site of the ill-fated Knickerbocker Theatre, which during a severe blizzard in Jan., 1922, suddenly collapsed upon the audience during progress of a performance, killing approximately 100 persons. A new theatre is now (May, 1922) in course of erection. Nineteenth Street North of Pennsylvania Avenue. No. 1215 19th C>., between M and N Sts., is the house in which Theodore Roosevelt resided while Civil Service Com- missioner. No. 2001 19th St., at N. E. cor. of U St., is the Chinese Legation (1922). The edifice was designed by B. Stanley Simmons. On the north-and-south streets W. of 19th St. there is little of interest to the stranger. f. I Street The only lettered streets in the residential section which offer sufficient attractions to the visitor to require separate sections are I and K Sts. Whatever points of interest are I to be found in the other lettered streets to the north will be : found in the chapters devoted to the nearest adjacent ave- I nues or numbered streets. I Aside from the squares E. of 3d St. (see North Capitol St. Section, ip. 356), there is nothing to interest the visitor until we reach the N.E. cor. of I and 13th Sts., where the Garfield Apartment Elouse, facing Franklin Sq. (p. 237), , occupies the site of the home of James A. Garfield while a member of Congress. No. 1415 I St. is the former home of Chief Justice Morrison R. Waite (1816-88). At the N. E. cor. of I and 15th Sts. is the Bellevue 2Z(> RIDER'S WASHINGTON Hotel (p. 5). No, 1535, a red-brick dwelling with mansard roof, was the residence of James G. Berret, Mayor of Washington during the Civil War. I St. now crosses i6th St. (p. 199). No. 1614 I St. was formerly the Ecuador Legation. No. 1617 is the former residence of the late George W. Riggs, for many years partner of W. W. Corcoran. It is now occupied by his daughters. No. 1631, now included in the site of the Army and Navy Club, was the home of Benjamin F. Tracey while Secretary of the Navy, and the scene of the tragic fire in wihich Mrs. Tracey lost her life. No, 1634 I St. is now occupied by the American Associa- tion of University Women, which was recently obliged to vacate its first Washington home, the Stockton House, when the latter property was acquired by the Chamber of Commerce of the United States (p. 222). The American Association of University Women was formed in Boston in 1882 for the purpose of opening educational opportunities to women. Today it represents eighty colleges and universities and its membership numbers many thousands. The purchase of a national head- quarters was authorized at the biennial convention in St. Louis in 19 19. The money for alterations and furnishings of the club house was raised by gifts and loans from college women throughout the country. $15,000 for the furnishings was pledged by the alumnae of six of the larger co'lleges, while those of Wellesley College gave the furnishings of the large lounge on the ground floor. The reception room was fur- nished by the daughters of former Secretary Lamont in the name of Elmira College, and to the memory of their mother, who occupied the house for many years. All of the furnishings and memorials were removed from the Stockton House and will occupy corresponding posi- tions in the Association's! new home. No. 1708 I St. was, in the early 8o's, the residence of Postmaster- General Timothy O. Howe. No. 171 o, former residence of Mrs. Stanley Matthews. No. 171 1, former residence of Paymaster-General Watmough, U. S. N. No. 1720, residence of Supreme Court Justice Oliver Wen- dell Holmes. No. 1728, once the home of Charles Goodyear, in- ventor of vulcanized rubber. The Frelinghuysen House, a dignified old mansion with Corinthian columns, was successively the home of four Cab- inet officers : Theodore Frelinghuysen, and William M. Evarts, while respectively Secretary of State; William C. Whitney, as Secretary of the Navy; and John Wanamaker, as Postmaster-General. Subsequently it was acquired by S. S. Howland, son-in-law of August Belmont. No. 1736 was the last residence of Jefferson Davis in Washington. No. 180 1 I St., at N. W. cor. of i8th St., was built by Marshall Brown, father-in-law of Richard Wallach, Mayor of Washington. Here was held the first International Amer- ican Conference, at which the Pan-American Union was es- tablished. The United States delegates included James D. , Blaine and AndreW Carnegie. I] OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 237 Nos. 1809-13 are occupied by the Friends' Meeting House and School. No. 1826 was the residence of the late Rear Admiral Schley. No. 1828 was formerly (about 1878) the Austro-Hungarian Legation. No. 1829 was for about ten years (until 1902) the Russian Emibassy. At 20th St., PVMinsylvania Ave. intersects 1 St. obliquely, dividing the broad open rectangle thus formed into two tri- angular parks. On the N. side of this rectangle stands No. 2005 I St., former home of General T. B. Rucker, U.S.A., father of General Sherman's widow. No. 2013, residence of Admiral Selfridge. /■ No. 2015, residence of General Robert Macfcely, U.S.A. jNo. 2917, now the home of the new Arts Club, of which th'e sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown is president. The ibuilding was occupied for a short time by President Madison after he left the Octagon House (p. 209), and later by Monroe while Madison's Secretary of State. Opposite, across the park, at No. 2018 I St., is the house of Prof. Cleveland Abbe (b. 1838), wljo in 1869 inaugurated daily weather forecasts, and became widely known as "Old Probs." g. K Street from 11th Street to Rock Creek K St., W. of nth St., has many interesting associations and contains the former homes of more distinguished people than any other one of the lettered streets. No. 1 1 01, at N. W. cor. of nth and K Sts., is the Strathmore Arms, former home of Mrs.. Mary J. Lockwood, author of "liistoTic Houses in Washington." No. 1141, former home of John M. Wilson, once Superintendent of Publici Grounds and Buildings and Chief oi Engineers, U.S.A. At the S. W. cor. of 12th St. is the parsonage of the New York Avenue Presbyterian Church (p. 231). Opposite, at No. 1203 K St., was the home of Commander A. S. Wadsworth. Here his nephew, Flenry W. Longfellow, stayed when visiting Washington in 1839. No. 121 1 was successively the home of the French and the P>elgian Legations. K St. here passes Franklin Park (on S.). The large red brick dwelling at the N. W. cor. of K and 13th Sts. was the Mexican Legation at the close of the Civil War; subse- quently it was occupied by the Netherlands Legation, and was, for a time, the home of Senator Roscoe Conkling. No. 1303, immediately adjoining it, was the home of Supreme Court Justice Noah H. Swain (1804-84). No. 1307 is the house used for the meetings of the Joint High Commission, which framed the Treaty of Washington, settling the Alabama Claims ; and here the treaty was signed May 8th, 1871. No. 13 1 1 is the house built by Ben Holiday, who operated a Pony Express across the continent before the Union Pacific Railway was built. Later it was successively the home of J. W. Noble, Secretary of the Interior, and of Justice Howell E. Jackson. 238 RIDER'S WASHINGTON The S. E. cor. of 13th and K Sts. is occupied by the Franklin School. No. 1321, a large gray limestone house with elaborately carved Facade, was built by Secretary of State John Sher- man, who lived and died here. No. 1323, once the residence of Edward M. Stanton, Secretary of War, who died here. No. 1403, one of the former homes of 3enator Arthur P. Gorman. No. 1426, former residence of John G. Carlyle (Ky.), Speaker of the House, U. S. Senator and Secretary of the Treasury. No. 1428, former home of Admiral Worden, Commander of the Monitor during her fight with the Mcrrimac. No. 1432, former home of Supreme Court Justice Samuel Blatchford (1820-93). No. 1537 K St.. a granite and yellow brick structure, was the home of Philander C. Knox while successively Attorney-General and Secretary of State. (For Anderson and Everts houses, at intersection with i6th St. see p. 199.) No. 1601 K St. was the last home of Admiral George Dewey, who died here. No. 1603 K St. was the home of William H. Taft while Secretary of War, and here he received the news of his nomination for the Presidency. No. 1609 was the former home of Senator Wetmore of Rhode Island; also of one-time Postmaster Gener.al Wilson S. Bissell. No. 1612 was the residence of Robert Bacon while Assistant Secretary of State. No. 1623, formerly the home of Secretary of the Interior Hoke Smith, and later occupied by the Rev. Randolph Harrison McKim, when Rector of Epiphany Church. No. 1626, former home of Senator Stephen B, Elkins of Virginia. No. 1627 K St. is the residence of Col. Jerome Bona- parte, great-grandnephew of Napoleon. It is a conspicuous edifice in French i6th century Gothic {Gray and Pope, architects). No. 1632, on S. E. cor. of 17th St., was the home of the late Vinnie Ream Hoxie, wife of Lieut. R. L. Hoxie, U.S.A. Mrs. Hoxie (1847-1914) was one of the best known women sculptors in America. She studied under Bonnat in Paris, and under Majoli in Rome. While abroad she modeled Cardinal Antonelli and Liszt. Ex- amples of her work in Washington inclufle the Lincoln statue in the Rotunda of the Capitol, Governor Kirkwood and Sequoyah, a Cherokee Chief (p. 96) both in Statuary Hall; Farragut, in Farragut Square (p. 222) and ner own monument in Arlington Cemetery (p. 511). K St. now passes the northern end of Farragut Square (p. 222). Facing the Square, at the N. W. cor. of 17th St.. is the house occupied by Charles W. Fairbanks when Vice- President. No. 1703, once the Chilean Legation, is now the OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 239 home of Charles Carroll Glover, a distinguished Washington financier, and President of the Riggs National Bank. No. 1705, site of former home of Don Cameron (about 1879) ; then successively Chinese and Russian Legations. It was erected and occupied by Alexander R. Shepherd after he was Governor. No. 1730 K St. was the earlier Washington home of Dr. Swan M. and Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett. "Little Lord Fauntleroy" was written here. Five squares W., at 2203 K St., is the home of Dr. Charles Greeley Abbot, Director, since 1907, of the Smith- sonian Astrophysical Observatory. One square further W., at Washington Circle, K St. and Pennsylvania intersect. Beyond, at Nos. 2506 and 2508, and still further W. at No. 2618-20 there still stand some ancient looking brick dwellings in fair preservation, althoug'h dating from 11798. They were built by Robert Peter, one of the Original Proprietors of Washington City, who married Martha Washington's granddaughter, Martha Parke Custis. When built they stood upon what was then the highway from Georgetown to the Capital City. George Washington was a frequent visitor at No. 2618-20 when it was occupied by the Peters ; and a bronze tablet beside the entrance records that he passed the night there on the occasion of his last visit to the Capital. 240 RIDER'S WASHINGTON WASHINGTON SOUTHWEST AND THE MALL I. The Mall from the Botanic Gardens to Fourteenth Street *The Mall (PI. Ill— E4), one of the main arteries of the city's park system, extends westward from the Capitol Grounds 1Y2 miles, connecting with the Executive Grounds on the N. and with Potomac Park on the W. It comprises (from E. to W.) : I, The Botanical Gardens; 2. the Public Gardens; 3. Armory Square; 4. the Smithsonian Grounds; 5. the Agricultural Grounds ; 6. the Monument Grounds. The first two of these divisions are triangular in shape; but W. of 6th St. the Mall has a uniform width of approximately a quarter-mile, extending from B St. North to B St. South. .The E, end of the Mall abuts on First St., directly op- posite the western stairway and portico of the Capitol, and extends from the circle at the foot of Pennsylvania Ave., containing the Peace Monument (p. 97), to that at foot of Maryland Ave., occupied by the James A. Garfield Me- morial. This monument, the gift of the Society of the Army of the Potomac, was designed by /. Q. A. Ward, and consists of a standing portrait statue in bronze, heroic size, surmounting a lofty triangular pedestal, at the three cor- ners of which are three seated male figures, symbolizing The Student, The Warrior and The Statesman, — the three successive phases of Garfield's career. Erected in 1887 at a cost of $65,000, one-half of which was contributed by Congress to pay for the pedestal and symbolic figures. Radical changes in the Mall are among the chief factors in tlie elaborate plans for beautifying Washington, as formulated by the Art CoanmLssion, and submitted to Congress in 1901. The leading features of these changes, wliich involved a protracted battle with one Con- gressional coimmittae after another were: first, the ckHnplcte removal of the Botanic Gardens, and restoration of the wide, oipen square conteTni)Iated in L'Knf ant's original plan; secondly, the substitution of a new main, axis for the Mall, in place of the preselnt axis, for the purpose of rectifying tlie mistake or oversight of tlie bmldersl of the Washington Monument in placing that Mcmiorial more than 100 ft. southeast of the true line. This latter change was accomi>lished by drawing a new line from the Dome of the Capitol through the Wash- ington Monument, and prolonging it to the Potomac, to serve also as the axis for the Lincoln Memorial that was part of the Art Commission's plan. It was proposed alsio that all the central trees and shrubbery THE MALL 241 filiould be cleared away, leaving a smooth carpet of greensward 300 ft. wide, with two lines oi stately elms plantedi in columnsi oi four, one ciolumn on each side, thus bringing! the Monument into the vista of the Cai)itol, a mile and a half away. The new axis is now' an accomplished fact, and the three great Memorials to Wiaishington, Lincoln and Grant conform to it. The Botanic Gardens, however, stubbornly hold their ground, and bid fair to delay for some( time to come the full realization of the Art Commission's plans. a. The Botanic Gardens The Botanic Gardens (PI. I — D3). These Gardens, oc- cupying- the truncated triangle lying between Pennsylvania and New Jersey Aves., ist and 3rd Sts., contain the Grant Memorial Monument, ik^Bartholdi Fountain, a number of fine old His- toric Trees, ivA a system of Conservatories housing rare p'lants from all parts of the world. The gardens are open to the pii'blic daily from sunrise to sunset; conservatories open from 8 a.m. to 4 :30 p.m. ; on Sunday only the main conservatory is open. History. The Botanic Gardens were established by the Columbian Institute for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences, jncorporated by Act of Congress April 20th, 1818. The pres- ent site was granted by Congress in 1820 and there is a tradi- tion that George Washington contemplated the establishment of gardens in this locality. Up to 1836 no- improvements had been made. The tract was a stagnant and malarial swamp, and jCongress was prevailed upon to make an appropriation of $5000 for improvements, including pipes to convey the surplus water from the Capitol, and the purchase of a fountain to be designed by Hiram Pozvers. ! The real beginning, however, of the Botanic Gardens ^ates from the Wilkes Exploring Expedition of 1838-42. In ;he Naval Appropriation Act of May 14th, 1836, the Presi- dent was authorized to send out a surveying and exploring expedition to the Pacific and South Seas. This expedition 'onsisted of six Government ships, under Lieut. Charles vVilkes, U. S. N. They sailed August i8th, 1838. The staff ncluded a botanist, W. D. Breckenridge, who brought back 1 large collection of specimens, including seeds and cuttings. Phis formed the nucleus of the Botanical collection. The •resent site, however, was not occupied until 1850, and the nain conservatory building, a structure 30 ft. long, with a ucntral dome 60 ft. high, was not erected until 1867. 1 The Gardens in their preistent location are a serious obstacle p the comprehensive scheme for beautifying Washington [P« 354) > and the present available space is wholly inadequate jor the development of a National Botanic Garden on the 242 RIDER'S WASHINGTON same liberal lines as the Rock Creek Zoological Park. Yet, although their removal to some suburban tract has been stead- ily urged for more than 20 years, public indifference and active opposition have united to keep them where they are. As recently as Feb., 1922, a plan was announced for incorporating them as a part of the comprehensive scheme for beautifying Washington, through the acquisition of a broad strip of land south of the present gardens, all the way to the river. "Among scientists the Boitanic Garden has no partictular standing for it has long been regarded as a joke, and quite unwoithy of the Government of the United States. Being under control of the Con- gressional Joint Committee on the Library, it is practically an inde- pendent institution wihout guidance, direction orai.;^jponsibility." — Charles Moore. "Daniel H. Burnham." b. The Grant Memorial Monument The *Grant Memorial Monument (PI. I — D4), unveiled April 2y, 1922, the centenary of Grant's birth, is situated at thi^ end of the Botanical Gardens, with its center on the line of the newly established axis of the Mall, and a few feet S. of the old axis. This monument was authorized in February. 1901, when Congress appropriated $250,000. In August, 1902, the contract was awarded for $240,000 to Edward Pearce Casey, architect, and Henry Merwin Shrady, sculptor, and constituted the largest Government contract thus far awarded for any single piece of monumental sculpture. There followed a protracted discussion regarding choice of location, the White' House grounds and the Union Station Plaza being both^ strongly urged. Finally the present site, representing the' choice of the Art Commission, and individually indorsed by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, Charles F. McKim. Daniel Chester! French and other prominent artists, was decided upon. Work| upon the foundation was begun October 7, 1907, but was stopped two days later by an injunction intended to prevent- ihe necessary removal of three historic trees, including thc\ Crittenden Peace Oak. There followed protracted hearini before the Joint Library Committee, which had the matter ir^ charge. The opposition was headed by the venerable Dr, William Ri. Smith, for 55 years Superintendent of the Botanic* Gardens. No decision was reached until Secretary Taft ap peared before the Committee and emphatically stated that tlii: site had been selected for the Grant Memorial, because it wa an essential part of the Park Commission's comprehensivi plans for improvement. The outcome was that the Crittendei and Beck trees were moved, and the work on the Memoriaj; went forward. THE MALL 243 In the course of these hearings the interesting fact was revealed that a large^ proportion of the trees contained in it are historic!, having been planted 'by famous men, both Americans and foreigners. It was found necessary, however, to conceal the identity of these tree® from the public, as thel only .practical means of saving themi fromi vandalism. The marble superstructure of the Memorral, 262 ft. long by 69 ft. in widtli, consists of a terraced platform surmounted by three pedestals, the central and loftiest of which supports an equestrian figure of Grant colossal heroic size. At the four corners of this pedestal are recumbent lions. The N. and S. pedestals support respectively spirited bronze groups representing .Cavalry and Artillery. The third branch of the service, Infantry, will be represented in two bas-relief panels that are yet to be placed on the N. and S. sides of the main pedestal. These groups face inward, and picture a mad rush toward the center, across the wide stretch of white marble that separates them from the mounted figure of Grant. The General is portrayed wearing the familiar slouch hat and army cloak of his Civil War ompaigns. His pose is that pf a reviewing officer, and his characteristic serenity is empha- sized by the fiery spirit of the huge stallion he bestrides. This Memorial is said to be exceeded in height, among equestrian itatues, only by that of Victor Emmanuel in Rome.v Some idea )f the size and proportions of the Memorial as a whole is con- veyed by the statement that the Cavalry group alone weighs 5 tons. Special Artillery and Cavalry drills were given at Nest Point and other posts to aid the sculptor in the develop- ment of his design. Mr. Shrady spent upward of 15 years ipon these sculptures. He died in New York April 13 1022 ust two weeks before the dedication of the Monument. At the ceremony of the unveiling, among those present rere the Princess Cantacuzene, granddaughter of General rrant, and her little daughter Ida, who unveiled the statue he principal speaker, Vice President Coolidge, characterized .rant as having "lived the great realities of life," adding that IS Lincoln could put truth into words, so Grant could out uth into action." "Few of the people who now gaze through the iron fence can ^ahze the transformation planned when the Memorial to General Grant as located in the grounds of the Botanic Gardens . Of the -aina and heart's blood that have gone into this work,, the future will ii. ioday It stands in thel alien companv of an overpowering cast-iron aintam and towering greenhouses. Some day high wall and iron nee, fountain and greenhouses will be cast aside like a cocooji and en will appear the great square designed by L'Enfant as the he4d of Mall, with the Grant Memorial as its chief ornament."— C^ar/^^ oore. 244 RIDER'S WASHINGTON -Midway in the gardens, and N. of the main conservar tory. stands the Bartholdi Fountain, designed by Auguste Bar- tholdi, the French sculptor, who also designed the Statue of Liberty in New York Harbor. This fountain was one of the attractions at the Centennial Exposition of 1876, and cost $6000. The Historic Trees in the Gardens are not labelled, but can most of them be easily identified. The Crittenden Oak, of the mos y overcup variety, stands close to the E. gale, and was planted by John J. Crittenden to mark the spot of a debate between several statesmen, in which he made a fine but unavailing' effort for peace between the North and South. A few feet S. of this oak stands the l^eck-Washington Elm, a scion of the elm planted by Washmgton at the west front ot the Capitol. The parent tree died fromj injury to its roots when the present marble terrace was constructed. One of the* most mterestint; trees is an Oriental Plane standing at the west end of the Gardens the seed of which came from the Vale of Cashmere and was planted by Thaddeus Stevens. This and one other Plane Tree planted ni Ldncoln Square from the same consignment of seeds, are the parents O! all the Oriental Plane trees in Washington. Near this parent 1 Ian- stand the following' trees: a British " Oak, planted by Mr. Bayard or Delaware, while American Ambassador to England, a cut-leaved Oriental Sycamore, planted by Senator Daniel Voorhies; and an Aipencan Oak, planted by President Hayes. Near the E. end of the conservatory is Jefferson Davis's Tree, a Monterey Cypress, a; species discovered in the mountains of the trans-Mississippi country by government explorers when seeking- a practical trans-continentali route. Afthe S. front of the main conservatory are two tall Cy^iress trees of the Bald variety, planted respectively by John W. Forney, a journalist, and Edwin Forrest, the aictor. Nearby is a Chinese Oak, raised from seed growing at the grave of Confucius. It was a gift from the garden of Charles A. Dana, and was planted by Representative Cummings of New \ oa-k. On the S. walk of the Gardens are two Cedars of Lebanon, planted respectively by Senator Ploar and Senator Everts. Near the S. front of the Extra- Trcjoical greenhouse is thei Albert Piket Acacia, a tree of Masonry; audi near it is another Acacia raised from a sprig of the Acacia wreath placed by Masons on the bier of Garfield. f Beyond the Botanic Gardens is a second and smallei triangle, the Public Gardens, with apex on 3d St. and bas< on 6th St., its other two sides being bounded hy Maine anci Missouri Aves. It is divided by 4^ St. into two section; j{ known officiailly as East and West Seaton IP ark, both of whicHj were added by Act of Congress, 1917, to the area of th.^' Botanical Gardens. Facing the Public Gardens. No. 467 Missouri Ave., wai| the residence of John Tyler before he became President. Armory Square, a narrow parallelogram lying betwec 6th and 7th Sts., contains at its N. E. cor. the site of th former Baltimore and Ohio R.R. Station, where President Gu field was shot by Charles Guiteau, July 2d, 1881. This co» ner is at present used for tennis-grounds. It has. howevr been donated by the Government for the proposed Geor^;. THE MALL 245 Washington Memorial, for which more than $300,000 have already been raised. The proposed Memorial is to be a four-story structure on the Grecian order of architecture. On the ground iloor there is to be a large auditorium, with a seating capacity of 7,000; also seven con- vention halls seating from 500 . to 2,500. Behind the Auditorium balcony will be a banquet hall accommodating 700 diners. The second and third floors will contain upward of 100 rooms, of which each State in the Union will have one, for display purposes. Various patriotic organizations, such as the Colonial Dames, are paying for certain rooms, which will be their property in perpetuity. The price asked for these rooms is $25.00 per square foot. The fourth floor will contain a memorial to the Signers of the Declaration of Indeiiendence; also a Washington Museum, in charge of the George Washington Memorial Association. A large drawing of the design for the building, approved by the National Fine Arts Committee was temporarily placed on exhibition in the basement of the New National Museum in April, 19 17. The main fagade has a colonnade of sixteen Ionic columns, above which is inscribed, "Let us raise a standard to which the wise and honest can repair. The event is in the hands of God." The cost, including endowment fund for maintenance, is to be $2,500,000. Tracy and Swartwout, architects. Much of the area both of the Public Gardens and of Armory Square, is still disfigured by the ungainly bulk of temporary Government buildings hastily erected during the War, and still housing certain branches of the Executive Departments, such as the Bureau of Census (Building D) and the U. S. Employees' Compensation Commission (Building F). c. The Bureau of Fisheries *The Bureau of Fisheries (PI. I — C4), containing a small but interesting Aquarium, is in the Mall, at 6th and B Sts., ^. W., in the so-called Armory building, a rectangular three- story brick structure, erected in 1855 as an Armory for the 'District iMilitia. When, at the close of the Civil War, the regiments v^ere mustered out, the building was no longer needed for its orignal purposes. It was used for a time (until the completion of the old National Museum, p. 322) as 1 storehouse for the exhibits acquired by the Smithsonian [nstitution from the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. Aquarium open dail}'-, excepting Sundays and holidays, 9 \. M. to 4:30 P. M. History. The Bureau of Fisheries was instituted in 187 [ )y an Act of Congress, creating the office of Commissioner )f Fish and Fisheries, to be filled by a civil officer of the jovernment properly qualified, who was to serve without ompensation. The first Commissioner was Prof. Snencer 246 RIDER'S WASHINGTON F. Baird subsequently Secretary of the Smithsonian Institu- tion, who served until his death in 1887. The growth of the Bureau had then become so rapid that the -office of Commis- sioner was divorced from other governmental work with an independent salary. The organization remained directly re- sponsible to Congress until 1903^ when it was made a bureau in the new Department of Commerce. In addition to the propagation of useful food fishes and their distribution, the investigation of American fishing grounds and compilation of statistics, the duties of the Bureau now include the administra- tion of the salmion fisheries of Alaska, the fur-sealed herd on the IPribilof Isands, and the protection of sponges off the coast of Florida. Scope of work. As originally constituted the Bureau was an insti- tution, "for investigating the condition of fisheries in respect tO' their alleged depletion, the causes which may have led to their impoverish- ment, and the means by which they might be conserved and their productiveness increased. ' It was at once seen that the remedy was through the agency of fish culture, and an appropriation to this end was promptly obtained from Congresis. The work began experimentally in 1872 when a few salmon and shad were hatahed and .planted. By 1880 eight specimens of fish were being distributed on an extensive scale, and experiments with other species were being conducted. The work has now grown tO' enormous proportions. During the fiscal year 1921 the Bureau handled some fifty specimens of fish, the fresh-water mussel and lobster. The official summary of distribution during this year shows (including eggs, fry. "fingerlings," yearlings and adults) a total number of 4,962,489,405. Of the separate species, the following figures are fairly representative of the choicer and the rarer types: Whitefish, 420,450,000; Haddock, 460,820,000; Chinook Salmon, 39,560,765; Brook Trout, 12,058,845: Rainbow Trout, 6,839,565; Large-mouth Black Bass, 1,846,955. These enormous distributions are made entirely free of cost, ex- cept cartage from point of delivery. Any individual or association may send in applications on blanks provided by the Bureau. The endorse- ment of a Senator or Representative is required. The Bureau has now 36 stations and 94 sub-stations, located in 34 states and in Alaska. It has its special delivery cars and system of messengers, the distribution of a single year involving over 600,000 miles of travel. The main entrance is on the N. or Mall side, opening' upon the Central exhibition room. On L. are incubation] troughs, containing: i. Specimens of eggs or fry of trout,: salmon, etc., varying with the season of the year (each spe-, ciesi having its own date of incubation) ; 2. In centre : Large ^ tank formerly containing a pair of Fur-Seals (male and^ female), the only Fur-Seals ever reared in captivity.^ It isj now occupied by a miscellaneous collection of species, includ- ing Catfish and Carp. One of the most important funations of the Bureau of Fisheries isf' its entire administrative control of the Pribilof Islands, including tile native inhabitants and the Inir-Seal herds which resort to the Island?; during breeding season. This involves also the enforcement of tli« THE MALL 247 laws relating to the fisheries and taking of fur-bearing animals in Alaska. The annual value of the Alaskan fishery products is approximately $20,000,000, more than two and one-half times the original purchase cost of Alaska. South of the large tank are exhibition cases containing: Collection illustrating results of the Bureau's experiments in artificial propagation and growth of sponges of commercial value; An adjacent collection (for purposes of comparison) of foreign sponges, illustrating the commercial varie- ties derived, from the Mediterranean and Caribbean iSea, the Gulf of Mexico and Bahama Islands; Exhibition of Fresh-water mussels; Fresh-water pearls; and pearl shell suitable for buttons, with examples of pearl buttons in various stages of development ; On S. Wall : Bronze memorial Tablet to Spencer Fullerton Baird (1823-87). This tablet contains, besides the low-relief portrait, the following tribute: "Founder and Organizer of the U. S. Bureau of Fisheries; Comrnis- sioner of (Fisheries 1871-87. He devoted his life to the) public service, and through the application of science to fish culture and the fisheries, gave his country world-wide distinction. His co-workers and followers in this field dedicate this tablet on the anniversary of the establishment of the fishery service February 9, 1916." The central door on W. opens directly upon a T-shaped extension, lined with a series of twenty-eight wall tanks con- taining approximately 25 species of fish. These exhibits are arranged as follows (from R. to L.), beginning on the N. side: Main Aisle (E. to W.) : i. Bream; 2. Roach; 3. Sucker; 4. Channel Catfish; 5. Yellow Catfish; 6. Little Sunfish. Transverse Aisle, East Wall (S. to N.) : i. Gar Pike; 2. Small- mouth Black Bass; 3- (N. Wall) Carp; 4. (W. Wall) Crappie; 5. Pearl Roacih; 6. Gold Fish: 7. Large-mouth Black Bass; 8. Yellow Perch; 9. Rock Bass; 10. Small-mouth Black Bass; 11. (S, Wall) Bowfin; 12. (E. Wall) Albino Brook Trout; 13-14, Rainbow Trout; 15. Brook Trout. ' Main Aisle, South Side: i. Gold Fish; 2, Black Bass; 3. Common Sunfisih; 4. Pike Perch; 5. Yellow Perch; 6. Gold Fish. ; In Commissioner's room and hallway on second floor are portraits of former Commissioners: i. Spencer F. Baird, 1871-77; 2. G. B. Goode, 1887-89; 3. Marshall McDonald, 1888-95; 4. John J. Brice, 1896-98; 5. George M. Bowers, 1898. ' The library, on third floor, is open to the public for refer- mce. It contains approximately 30,000 volumes, and is strong )n ichthyology, fish culture, commercial fisheries and ocean- Igraphy. \ d. The Army Medical Museum The Smithsonian Grounds (PI. V— B4), forming an al- most perfect square, extend from 7th to 12th ;Sts., and con- lin the bviilciin.g& of gix important artistic and scientific insti- 248 RIDER'S WASHINGTON tutions: i. The Army Medical Aluseum ; 2. the Old National Museum ; 3. the New National Museum ; 4 the Smithsonian Institution ; 5. the Astrophysical Observatory ; 6. the Freer Art Museum, now in course of construction. Directly W. of the Bureau of Fisheries, at the N. W. cor. of 7th and B Sts. S. W., stands the Army Medical Museum Building (PI. I — ^04), a plain red hrick structure consisting of basement and three stories, with a frontage of 232 ft. and three wings extending back 136 ft. (erected 1886- 88; Oluss and Schulze, architects). The Museum was founded and a large -and important part of its medical and surgical exhibits were collected during the Civil War. For approximately twenty years it was housed in the historic Ford's Theatre, on loth St. (p-. 145), from which it was removed to its present quarters in 1887. The collection is said to be the richest in the world in specimens illustrating the results of gun-shot wounds, and in the surgical instruments which such wounds necessitate. In addition to administrative offices, laboratories, etc., the building contains the Aluseum and Medical Library, both comprised within a Bureau of the War Department, under the direct control of the Surgeon General. ' They are open free to the public daily, except Sundays and holidays, from 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. Unlike most anatomical museums, no notices are posted restricting admission on the ground of sex or age. The museum is located on the second floor, at the E. end of main hall, and rises through two stories of the entire east wing, with a gallery encircling all four sides. The collection is naturally of primary interest to physicians and surgeons ; but it merits more than a cursory inspection by any other visitor sufficiently stoic to face its gruesome details. The collection comprises a vast array of human bones, skulls, etc., showing every imaginable form of fracture and muti- lation; human tissues (skin, muscles and internal organs), both healthy and diseased, in jars of preserving fluid; andj minutely accurate reproductions in colored wax, life size.' showing the process of healing wounds, the spread of skin- diseases and the successive stages of malignant growths. | The exhibits are all fully labeled. The S. end caoe.lj contain an extensive collection of microscopes and other ap-" paratus used in modern bacteriological research. The upv right cases along both E. and W. walls are devoted mainh'] to tumors and other local diseases of the internal organs fibrous tumors; cancers and abscesses of the liver; tuimor" and cancers of the peritoneum ; intestinal diseases and in|[ THE MALL 249 juries; appendicitis; diseases of the mouth and oesophagus, etc. The last few cases on the S. E., while no less patho- logical, offer the relief of diversity, containing: i. Animal parasites and diseases (Tape-worm, Hook-worm, Trichina, Botfly, etc.); 2. Vegetable parasites and. diseases; 3. Mon- strosities (both human specimens and lower animals). The central cases contain exhibits illustrating pathological effects upon the human tissues (skin, heart, liver, lungs, etc.). wrought by the more deadly contagious diseases, including: Typhoid, Tuberculosis, Yellow Fever, Beri-beri, Small-pox, Epidemic Cholera, Leprosy, Bubonic Plague, Glanders, Pneu- monia, Diphtheria and Cerebro-spinal Meningitis. The collection of *Surgical Instruments is contained in a series of table cases in front of E. and W. windows. They are arranged historically, beginning with reproductions of ancient Roman instruments found in Pompeii, and coming down to the American Army Surgeon's kit of the Civil War period, the Spanish-American War and the present day. Surmounting the central cases are portrait 'busts of great anatomists of the past including Galen, Linnaeus, Cuvier, Agassiz and Oliver Wendell 'Holmes. The gallery exhibits, reached hy stairs at S. W. cor., consist chiefly of bones showing gunshot fractures ; also dis- locations and abnormalities. The first case on W. wall, opposite stairs, should not be missed, for it contains a few historic relics possessing a grim interest. They include : ^Vertebrae from the neck of Wilkes Booth, showing fcullet wound made by Boston Corbett ; Hair from around the wound on Lincoln's head ; Skull and Spleen of Charles Suiteau, assassin of Garfield; Armbones of Gen. Daniel F. Sickles; plaster cast of Brain of Laura Bridgman, the famous deaf-mute; plaster cast of Armbone of David Livingstone, the African explorer, showing fracture caused by bite of lion ; Skull preserved for pathoilogical reasons, but happening by coincidence to be that of a ''funny old woman who was an upper domesitic" in a hotel where Dickens stayed at Sandusky, 3hio (sec American Notes). jl The special *Hookwor7n Disease Exhibit, arranged by iiie International Health Commission, Rockefeller Founda- ion, is in a small room reached through middle door of west fallery. The exhibit includes : i. a series of cases showing he life cycle of the hookworm, by means of models magnified from 42 to 600 times ; wax models of hands and feet, showing ijhe characteristic inflammation or "Grounditch," caused by the nntering eml)ryos; life-size models of boys in advanced stages 250 RIDER'S WASHINGTON of the disease; 2. reduced models of a typical southern log cabin and surroundings, showing, first, the slovenly and in- sanitary conditions that foster the hook-worm ; secondly, the transformation wrought by sanitation ; 3. charts, maps, photo- graphs and statistics, showing the percentage of victims in the infected areas. The exhibit is a model of its kind in clearness and convincing force. The Army Medical Library is at the opposite end of the of the building, in the west wing. It is a reference library; but books are lent to the medical profession. Resources about 190,000 volumes and about twice as many pamphlets. This library was begun by Surg. Gen, Lovell prior to 1836, and for many years consisted of a small collection kept solely for the use of the Surgeon General's office, amounting at the time of the Civil War to barely 400 vohimes. Ii^ithe fall of 1865 Dr. John Shaw liill- ings became librarian, and under his administration b^gan a remarkable growth which has resulted in making this the leading medical library of the world. The only objects of interest to the casual visitor are some exhibits of rare and curious old medical works in table cases; and portraits, chiefly of former Surgeon Generals, on the walls. The latter include: West Wall (R. to L.) : i, Benja- min Fordyce Barker (1818-91); 2. Samuel G. Morton (1799- 1851) ; 3, John Hunter (1728-93), a physiological writer on surgery, copy after Joshua Reynolds; Philip Byng Physick (1768-1837), by Rembrandt Peale.. South Wall: i. John S. Billings (in charge of library 1865-95), "presented by 250 physicians of America and Great Britain" ; 2. James Tilton, Surg. Gen., 1813-15 ; 3. Joseph Lovell, Surg. Gen. 1818-36. East Wall : i. Thomas Larson, Surg. Gen. 1836-61 ; 2. Clement A. Finley, Surg. Gen. 1861-62; 3. Joseph K. Bangs, Surg. Gen. 1864-82; 4. R. M. O'Reilly, Surg. Gen. 1901-09; 5. Charles H. Crane, Surg. Gen., 1882-83. North Wall : 1,. M. F. X. Bchat, 1771-1802; 2. Robert Fletcher, M.R.C.S., Eng., Principal Assist- ant Librarian, (1876-1912) ; 3. Thomas G. Mower, 1790-1853. In the Smithsonian grounds, N. W. from the Medical Museum, stands a bronze statue of Prof. Samuel D. Gross, M.D. (1805-84). -inodeled by Alexander Sterling Colder (1870- ), and cast in Paris l)y Jaboeuf & Bacout. It was erected in 1897 by the American Surgical Association, and the Alumni Association of the Jefferson Medical College. The inscription reads: "American Physicians erected this statue to commemorate the great deeds of a man wlio made such an impression upon American surgery that it has,, served to dignify American medicine." \\ THE MALL 251 Midway between the Army Medical Museum and the Old Museum, officially known as the Arts and Industries Building of the [National Museum (cor. 9th and B Sts. S.W.) stands a memorial to Louis Jacques Mande Daguerre (1789- 1851), inventor of the Daguerreotype process. It consists of a huge sphere of polished dark gray granite, surmounting a massive square pedestal. Resting against the sphere, at N.W. cor., is a bronze medallion portrait of Daguerre. A par- tially draped female figure of bronze, life-size, half kneel- ing, is draping both medallion and sphere with a bronze garland. Jonathan Scott Hartley, sculptor. The Arts and Industries Building is described on p. 322. Immediately adjoining the Old Museum on the W., is the original building of the Smithsonian Institution (PI. I — B4), out of which have grown the National Museum, the National Art Gallery, and various other activities, all of which, except the Simithsonian itself, are supported by appro- priations by Congress. For description isee p. 255. j South of the Smithsonian Institution is a group of I frame buildings constituting the Astrophysical Observatory. This observatory investigates the radiation of the sun, and its relation to the temperature of the earth. It has ob- servation stations on Mt. Wilson, Cal., Mt. Harqua Hala, Ariz, and Mt. Montezuma, Chile. In this same group is a ismall metal building facing on B St., S. W., and now serving as — The Aircraft Building of the National Museum. It con- tains a collection of aircraft and accessories illustrating the progress of aeronautics during the World War. Open to the public week days from 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. Immediately W. of the Astrophysical Observatory, at the S. W. cor. of the Smithsonian grounds (cor. 12th and B Sts. SwW.) is the new Freer Museum, which will be opened ■o the public as soon as the collection, recently installed, has jeen comipletely catalogued and arranged. For description ke p. 339. I Directly opposite the Smithsonian Building on the N. side t)f the Mall is the recently erected "New Museum," officially mown as the Natural History Building of the National Museum (for description see p. 260). About 100 ft. S. E. of he Museum building stands a Marble Urn, erected as "A VIemorial to Andrew Jackson Downing (1815-52) a Landscape pardener who laid out the parks between the Capitol and 'he Potomac, the White House Park and Lafayette Park." 252 RIDER'S WASHINGTON This memorial was erected in accordance with a resolution passed at Philadelphia in September, 1852, by the American Pomological Society, of which Mr. Downing was one of the founders. e. The Agricultural Department Buildings The Agricultural Grounds (PI. I — A3), occupy the sec- tion of the Mall lying between 12th and 14th Sts., comprising about 40 acresi. The main Ad)iiinistration Building and princi- pal laboratories of the Department of Agriculture are situated on the southern side, while the Green-houses, Plant Quaran- tine, etc., are on the north side. History. Although the Department of Agriculture dates only from 1862 as an independent department, it traces its origin back to Washington and Franklin. The former, in his last message to Congress, advocated the organization of a Government branch to care for the interests of farmers; while Franklin, when Agent of Pennsylvania in England, sent home silk-worm eggs and mulberry cuttings, thus setting a precedent since followed by U. S. Consuls all over the world, through whose efforts new and valuable species of plants, fruits and domestic animals have been successfully introduced. The official history of the department dates from 1839, when Congress made a first appropriation of $1000.00 for the purpose of distributing seed, investigating agricultural conditions and collecting statistics. At the same time an Agricultural Bureau was created as a division of the Patent Office, then a branch of the Department ot State. In 1848, when the Department _ of the Interior was created, the Patent Office was transferred to its jurisdiction, including thf Agricultural branch. The latter remained under the direct super- vision of the Cornmission of Patents until 1862, and its chief activities were still the distribution of seeds and publication of agricultural information. Its establishment as an independent department dates from the appointment of the first Commissioner of Agriculture, the Hon. Isaac Newton (1862-67), to whom the present department grounds on the Mall were assigned for an experimental farm. They could not, however, be used for this purpose until the close of the Civil War, being needed by the Army for a cattle-yard. Under the second Commissioner, Gen. Horace Capron (1867-71), important prog- ress was made: a system of exchanges of seeds and plants was established with many foreign governments; the Administration Build- ing was completed; and the activities of the department extended to include five divisions: Chemistry, Garden and Grounds, Entomology, Statistics and Botany. In 1889, largely through the influence of the Farmers' Congress, , the department was raised to first rank, the office of Commissioner ■ abolished and a new Cabinet officer. Secretary of Agriculture, created in his stead. Since then the growth and broadening scope of the , department have been phenomenal. To-day it includes the following. Bureaus: i. Office of F'ann Management and Farm Economics; -'..j Weather Bureau; 3, Bureau of Animal Industries; 4. Bureau of Plaitii Industry; 5. Bureau of Forestry; 6. Bureau of Chemistry; 7. Bureau oril Soils; 8. Bureau of Entomology; 9. Bureau of Biological Survey; ii).| [)ivision of Publications; 11. Bureau of .\ccmuits and Disbursement^ ;ij 12. States Relations Service; 13. Bureau of Public Roads; 14. Bureaiiji of Markets and Crop Estimates; 15. Packers and Stockyards Administi i-I tion; 16. Administration of (irain Future Trading Act; 17. Insecticiilei and Fungicide Board; 18. Federal Horticultural Board; 19. Fixed Nitro-tjj gen Research Laboratory. i II THE MALL 253 The Administration Building, a plain rectangular red- brick structure three stories and mansard roof, erected 1867, formerly contained a museum, comprising collections of plants, insects, etc. These have been transferred to the National Aluseum ; and the only collections now in the Ag- ricultural buildings are for laboratory purposes and other work of the department and are not open to the public. The ofifice of the Secretary of Agriculture is on the ground floor, N.W. cor. It contains portraits of former Secre- taries of the department: i. (E. wall) James Wilson, Sec. 1897-1913, by William M. Chase; 2. (W. wall) J. Sterling Morton, Sec. 1893-97, by Freeman Thorp ; 3. (in ante-room) Jeremiah Rusk, Sec. 1889-93 ; 4. Norman J. Colman, last Com- missioner and first Secretar\^, 1885-89. (Another portrait of Secretary Wilsion, by Freeman Thorp, said to be a better like- ness than the Chase portrait, hangs in the Chief Clerk's office diagonally opposite). Immediately behind the Administration Building is a small, square structure now occupied by the Bureau of En- tomology. The New Agricultural Building, when completed, will occupy the greater part of the S. side of the Agricul- tural Grounds; the plans call for a large central building surmounted by a dome, and connected with two subordinate buildings extending E. and W., with a total frontage of 750 ft._ Rankin, Kellogg & Crane, architects. This proposed building was a pet project of Secretary Wilson who, find- ing that he could not obtain from Congress a sufficient appropriation for so large a structure, proceeded with the money granted to erect the two wings, hoping to add the main central building later. These two wings, dating from 1907, are L-shaped structures on the Greek order, the base- ment being of Medford granite, the superstructure of Ver- mont marble, and red tiles for the roof. The main fagades, facing N., have at each end a pavilion with six Ionic col- umns, three in front and three on the side. The pavilions are surmounted by pediments containing sculptured groups :onsisting, in each case, of a pair of nude seated figures, liupporting between them a shield adorned with appropriate j;mblems of one of the agricultural products, with the name inscribed above. Adolph A. Weinman, sculptor. The subjects of the fovir pediments are from E. to W., as follows: ;. Fruit; 2. Flowers; 3. Cereals; 4. Forests. When first erected the lihields bore the names in Latin: "Fructiis," "Flores," "Cereales," ,'Forestes." One day a visitor called Secretary Wilson's attention to he fact that Forest cs was not classic Latin, and suggested that it hould be corrected; whereupon the Secretary decided that there was iio good reason for Latin inscriptions on an American Government -uildmg, and had them replaced with the English equivalents. 254 RIDER'S WASHINGTON These buildings contain nothing of interest to the tour- ist, being devoted almost wholly to laboratories. The Library of the Department of Agriculture is in the new yellow brick building facing the Mall, on B St. S. W., near 14th St., east wing, ground floor. The library is in- tended primarily for use in the work of the Department, but is free to the public for reference. Open 9 A.M. to 4 P.M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays ; Saturdays dur- ing summer months, 9 A.M. to i P.M. The Library dates from the establishment of the Department of Agriculture in 1862. Its present resources are upward of 140,000 volumes and pamphlets. Its collections are strong in all branches of agriculture, also in forestry, botany, applied chemistry, pharmacy, foods, zoology, especially economic entomology, hunting and game preservation. Connected with the main library arc twelve Bureau libraries which, with the exception of the Weather Bureau Library, are administered as branches of the Department library and there catalogued and charged. It is claimed that this collection constitutes the most extensive agricultural library in the world. The Administration Building faces a large square, formal' garden, occupying the center of the grounds, with a terrace, on J the N. side, descending to a driveway directly on line with 13th | St., and flanked by exceptionally fine rows of Gingko trees. | This avenue brings the visitor to the Green-houses. Those on the W. side are open to the public from 9 a. m. to 4.30 p. m. Most visitors will naturally enter the gate opposite the path- way on S. side of the Green-houses, but will find that the' doors to many of the houses are locked. Just outside the grounds, on B St., is an entrance to the main corridor ol the building, from which all of the Green-houses can be' readily visited. In the first, or easternmost, house is still pre- served the parent stem of the Bahia, or Navel Orange, America. In recent years this tree nearly died in the process of transplanting, and three-quarters of its girth is now over- laid with a plastering of rubber. The attendant, however 1 will point out how the new bark is slowly covering the injurccj portion. The Green-houses on the E. side of the driveway, ex- tending to the I2th St. corner, are closed to the public. The}' are occupied by the Plant Quarantine Division of the Bureai; of Plant Industry. The main activities of this Bureau date from the opening of th' 20th century, and have been exerted mainly in the introduction ani popularization of new varieties of foreign cereals, fruits, vegetables plants and trees. It was presently discovered that along with th , beneficial "Plant Immigrants" there were being introduced a numbe: of destructive foreign insects and plant diseases. In fact, the moa serious menaces in recent years to American agricultural interests hay entered this country from abroad, including the Cotton-boll Weeyii. the Citrus Canker and the Pink Boll Fly. THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 255 Consequently a most important field for this bureau's activities is its quarantine work. All importations of foreign plants, seeds, roots and cuttmgs are subject to inspection, small consignments at port of entry, larger ones (upon due notice) by local inspectors at th© point of consignment. All specimens found diseased or doubtful or imported from infected zones are sent to the Washington green-houses for study, and if necessary for treatment, and not released until it is established that they are free from any di'eases or jtarasitc harmful to their species or to kindred native families and genera. Specialists are occasionally permitted to inspect the methods here employed. But to the casual visitor the Quarantine Department is as rigidly closed as a Small-pox hospital. II. The Smithsonian Institution — The Smithsonian Building ; *The Smithsonian Institution, constituting to-day one Sf the most important scientific centers of the world, origi- lated in the curious whim of an Englishman who had never iven visited the United States. James Smithson was the latural son of Sir Hugh Smithson, first Duke of Northum- )erland. He was graduated from Oxford in 1786, and subse- luently devoted himself to scientific studies, specializing in ihemistry. He seems, however, to have had no settled home, Iternating between lodgings in London and lengthy sojourns ti Paris, Berlin, Florence and Genoa, in which last-named •Jty he died, June 27, 1829. Thanks to the generosity of the :)uke, his father, and his own simple habits, he left a fortune |f approximately half a million dollars, which he willed to is nephew for life; and in the event of the latter dving with- ut_ issue, then the whole of the property was left "to the Jnited 'States of America, to found at Washington, under the ame of the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment for the icrease and dififusion of knowledge among men." The resent fame of the Institution goes far to justify the rophesy made by its founder, that his name should "live in le memory of man when the titles of the Northumberlands nd the [Percys are extinct and forgotten." Smithson's nephew died without heirs in 1835. Consequently the : operty reverted to the United States, and in September, 1838, after suit in Chancery, the bequest was paid into the Federal treasury. s disposition was for several years before Congress: and it was not ilil August, 1846, that the Smithsonian Institution was founded and act passed directing the formation of: i. A library; 2. A museum r the reception of collections belonging to the government; 3. A llery of art. It left to a Board of Regents the power of adopting ch other parts of an organization as they should deem best suited > promote the object of the bequest. Under the terms of the act there IS set aside, especially reserved for the purpose, the S. W. quarter the square of land in the Mall extending from 7th to 12th Sts and w known as Smitlisoniam Institution Park (p. 247). 256 RIDER'S WASHINGTON The Board of Regents subsequently decided upon the following general plan upon which the operations of the Institution are con- ducted: . "To Increase KnozvJedge. It is proposed: i. To stinuilate men of talent to make original researches, by oflering suitable rewards ?ur memoirs containing^ew truths; and, 2. To appropriate annuaUy a portion of the income for particular researches, under the direction of suitable persons. "To Diffuse Kvozvledge. It is P/oposed: i. To publisb a series of periodical reports on the progress of the different branches of knowl- edge; and, 2. To publish, occasionally, separate treatises on subjects of general interest." The Institution is unique in representing the only instance up U that time in which a trust of this nature had been accepted by the .Ameri- can government. Its controlling body consists of. the President of the United States, the Vice-President, the Chief Justice, and the member^ of the Cabinet ex-officio. There is also a Board of Regents, consisting ot the ViQC-President and Chief Justice of the United . States, three Sena- tors, three Members of the House of Rpresentatiyes and six other emiAent persons nominated by a joint resolution of the Senate and th^ House of Representatives. The Board elects one of its nuniber as Chancellor. It als(* elects a Secretary, who is the executive officer the Institution, and the Director of . its activities The duties of thi. Board are to administer the foundation fund of the Institution and to make annual reports of the same to Congress. The publications of the Institution are in three principal issues: i "Contributions ^to Kiioaa 1- edge"; 2. "Miscellaneous Collections"; 3. "Annual Reports. The Smithsonian Building. This, the oldest of the group of buildings in the Smithsonian Institution Park, is a pic- turesque structure in the later Norman or Lombard style ot Architecture in vogue during the last half of the twelttli century, and representing the latest variety of the rounder style immediately preceding the advent of Gothic. The ma terial is a lilac-gray freestone from quarries near the moutl of Seneca Creek, a tributary of the Potomac, twenty-thrc. miles N. of Washington. This stone has the advantage o being soft when first quarried and hardening upon exposur to the weather. The plans were drawn by James Renzvick Jr subsequently architect of St. Patrick's Cathedral Nev York City. The cornerstone of the Institution was laid ' May 1847, with Masonic ceremonies, in the presence President Polk and a large throng of spectators. The build ing was co'inpleted in 1855. Renwick's design as originally carried out consisted of a mx central building, two stories high, and two lateral ^v\ng-\,,^J^ ^ ."'I' sisting of a single story, and connecting with the '»f ." j!"^^^^"^' ! intervening ranges, each of the latter having a cloister with . open stone^ screen on the northern front. The only important chang that have since been made are the reconstruction of the e.iste wing and range (raised to four and three stories respectively), t,- closing m of the western cloister (for laboratory purposes), a, | complete fire-proofing of the whole building The necessity of this 1< mentioned improvement was painfully taught by the disastrous fire \ THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 257 1865, which destroyed the upper part of the main building and with it the official, scientific and miscellaneous correspondence, the record books and manuscripts in the Secretary's office, Stanley's gallery of Indian portraits and the personal effects of James Smithson. The dimensions of the building as it now stands are as follows: extreme length 447 ft.; main central structure 205 ft. long by 57 ft. wide and 58 ft. high to top of corbel course. In the centre of the fagade of the main building are two towers, the higher rising to a height of 145 ft. In the middle of the S. front is a single massive tower 37 ft. square and 91 ft. high. From the N. E. cor. of the main building rises a double campanile tower 17 ft. square and 117 ft to the top of the finial; while at the S. W. cor. is a lofty octagonal lower containing a spiral stairway. These main towers together with four smaller ones, were the cause of one sarcasti0 critic's simile of a collection of church steeples which had gotten lost and were ;onsulting' as to the best means of getting home to their respective murches.' ^ The eastern wing, now devoted to the offices of administration yas for many years the home of Prof. Joseiph Henry, thei Institution's irst Secretary. Here also Secretary 'Langley pursued his investigations n aerodynamics, resulting in the invention of the flying machine. The only rooms in the Smithsonian building now accessible :o the public are the main central gallery, the S. pavilion and -he western range and wing. The visitor enters through the nan doorway in the middle of the northern side. To the L. of .he vestibule, in an alcove closed by a grating, is the Mortuary ::hapel of James Smith so xX. It contains a marble sarco- 'hagus surmounted by an urn. marking the last resting-place f the Institution's founder. His grave was formerly in the Anghsh cemetery near Genoa, Italy, but in 1906 his remains vere brought to this country and placed beneath the orginal nonument bought from Genoa. jl On the wall immediately S. of the alcove is a bronze iiemorial tablet to Samuel Pierpont Langley (1824-1906), •ecretary of the Institution — 1887-1906. Between the vesti- ule and main gallery, in the narrow hallway from which ;airs ascend to R. and L., are two wall cases containing 'ersonal Relics of James Smithson. These include several utograph pages ; a couple of published monographs by mithson on scientific topics; a miniature of Smithson by \9hns, painted in 1816; miniature of Col. Henry Lewis Dick- ison, a half-brother of Smithson; Smithson's matriculation agister of Oxford University, dated 1782, in whch he has gned himself Jacobus Ludovicus Macie (the name first lopted by Smithson from his mother, Elizabeth Macie; a lotograph of Smithson's former grave, Genoa, Italy; two )mmissions from King George III to Col. Dickinson; and ost interesting of all, Smithson's last will and testament in s own handwriting, in which the bequest for the founding 258 RIDER'S WASHINGTON of the Smithsonian Institution may still be read; the word "Washington" in the upper line of the right-hand page ii especially distinct. The Exhibition of Graphic Arts, forming part of the National Museum collections, now occupies the greater part of the galleries open to the public. It comprises exhibits on the development of writing, illustrating, printing and the reproductive arts. Since special stress is laid upon the material side of art, the cocllection includes not only manu- scripts, drawings and prints, but papers, canvasses, pencils, brushes, colors, inks, types, tools and machinery. It is gen- erally conceded to be the largest exhibit of its kind in the world. Main Central Gallery, East Section. (N. side, W. to E.) : Case i. The History of Writing, including specimens of pictographs (earliest known form of writing), photographs of tablets giving account of the Deluge, papyrus manuscripts, copy of the Rosetta Stone; Case 2. Samples of early printing, including first Chinese newspaper, Horn Books, etc.; Case 3. Original drawings in various mediums, crayon, rniniature painting, etc.; Case 4. Wash-drawings, black-and-white, pen- and-ink, water colors, including early Chinese water color; also bladders of paints used before the invention of modern, lead tubes; ('S. side, E. to W.) : Case 5- Manufacture oi. printing inks, from the flaxseed to the finished product— each^ exhibit fully labelled; Case 6. Processes of making hani-i made paper and of water-marking; Case 7. 'Reproduction o'l a i6th century type foundry and two books completed entircbl by ithe work of the donor, Dard Hunter, who made tlu| punches, cast the type and printed it on his own hand-mad'j paper; also other examples of modern printing; Case 8: Exhibit of modern type compared with i6th century type also models of first movable metal type ever made (Cores 1403), from originals in the American Museum of Naturaj History, N. Y. Main Central Gallery. West Section. Seven case' devoted to history of wood engraving, showing: i. How hvy wood blocks are made, and the tools with which the work done; 2. Modern method of making a wood block (hari maple)' for color work; 3. Exhibit of old color prints, i6o(i; 1812, ranging from two to twelve printmgs ; 4- Wood blocH:; by Timothy Cole, and one original block by Alexander Andei son, the first American engraver who made wood engraviiiiti extensively. A central case, at W. end, contains an Industriij Group, showing the Japanese method of cutting wood hlod, THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 259 and printing wood cuts, from the uncut block to the finished print in 25 colors. West End Cases. Six cases illustrating the History of Engraving, beginning with an early specimen dating from 1448. The W. door of the main hall leads into the — Press Room. This hall contains, besides exhibits of lithography and etching, several old printing presses, including the Bradford Press (1693), said to be the first printing press used in New York City; the first printing press to use the toggle joint (1819), invented by Wells; also an early linotype (1885). Continuing W., we next enter — The Chapel, a large hall at extreme W. of the building, containing reproductive processes based upon photography, and a few substitute processes. The exhibits include : First recorded success in photogravure, by Nicephore Niepce (1826) ; Screen for making photogravures, invented by Gen. von Eglofifstein (1865), and screens used today in rotary intaglio ; early specimens of Karl Klic's photogravure process (1894) ; exhibits showing Ives method of makng half-tones (1881) ; set of 13 Levy half-tone screens, from 50 to 400 lines to the inch : Collotype process for pirinting from gelatine films. Other exhibits include the Ben Day rapid shading mediums, nature printing, wax engraving and electrotyping, both wax and lead processes, and McKee processes of putting the dver- jlay in the plate itself. j At the northern end of the Cha.pel is now housed Horatio Greenongh's much discussed Statue of Washington. This statue repre- sents Washington clad in a Roman toga and seated in. a Curule chair, with one arm raised in a gesture of warning and advice. This statue was ordered by Congress in 1832 to commemorate the centennial of Washington's birth. The sculptor spent no less than eiglit years upon t and received the sum of $20,000 in payment. The statue formerly 'aced the main entrance to the Capitol; it was found, however, that exposure to the weather was seriously affecting the Carrara marble j'rom which it was carved. Smithsonian Bureaus. There are seven branches under the liharge of the Smithsonian Institutian, the expenses of which ilire sustained by annual-governmental appropriation. These ire: I. The United States National Museum, the depository of he national collections. It is especially rich in the natural jiistory of America, including : zooilogy, paleontology and thnology (see Natural History Building, p. 260), and has xtensiye series relating to American history and the arts and idustries (see Old Museum p. 322). Under "Hilstory" are Kluded the World War Collection which has been accnmu- 26o RIDER'S WASHINGTON lated with co-operation of the War and Navy Departments, and already comprised some 35,000 objects (see p. 266). 2. The National Gallery of Art including the Freer Gallery (see p. 271 and p. 339). 3. The International Exchange Service: the agency of the United States Government for exchange of scientific, literary and governmental publications with foreign governments and institutions, receiving and dspatchinig about 600,000 pounds of printed matter annually. 4. The Bureau of American Ethnology, engaged in the collection and publication of knowledge relating to American Indians, and the natives of Hawaii. 5. The Astrophysical Observatory, engaged in investigat- ing solar radiation and related phenomena. 6. The Naitional Zoological Park (p. 444). 7. The International Catalogue of Scientific Literature. This organization consists of a Central Bureau in London, and 33 regional bureaus in the principal countries of the world. That for the United States is administered by the Smithsonian Institution. III. The Smithsonian Institution — The Natural History Building (The "Nezv'^ National Museum) i The Natural History Building of the United States] National Museum, popuiarlv known as the "New Mus-; eum," (PI. I — B3) situated on the N. side of the Mall'l directly opposite the buildings of the Smithsonian Institution,!; and with its main entrance almost in line with loth St., is; a rectangular granite structure four stories in height, and covering an area of about four acres. It is on the modern, classic order of architecture, with a distinct French influence ■ shown in the mansard roof and dormer windows. The mate-.i rial of the exterior walls consists of three varieties of granite I,; the ground story being of pink or a warm gray Milford (Mass.),! granite; the two main stories of white granite from Bethe i (Vt.) and the attic story of a nearly white granite fron. Mt. Airy (N. €.). Hornblozver & Marshall, Architects. a. General Description There are two entrances: one from the Mall, on S. sid( opening into the first or main floor; the other, on the N. s:dj opening from B St. into the ground story floor. Hours: The Museum is open to the public, free, week-days, 9 A. to 4.30 P. M.; Sundays, 1.30 to 4.30 P. M. 262 RIDER'S WASHINGTON A broad approach of granite steps, broken by an inter- mediate platform, leads up to a Roman-Corinthian portico at the south main entrance, supported by eight columns, the capitals of which are patterned after those of the Temple of Jupiter Stator, at Rome. This portico opens into a large pavilion and rotunda, from which three wings diverge to the N., E, and W., respectively. Each wing consists of a central sky-lighted hall, side aisles and an end pavilion. Two L-shaped ranges, extending N. from the S. W. and S. E. pavilions, con- nect with the pavilion of the N. wing, and complete the en- closure of twO' spacious inner courts (128 ft. sq. each). The outer dimensions of a building are: length of S. front, 561 ft.; N. front, 499 ft; E. and W. sides, 313 ft. The Rotunda deserves more than a passing word. In form it is an irregular octagon, rising through three stories and culminating in a noble dome formed of Gustavino tiles. It is supported on four massive piers, so placed as to form the alternate shorter sides of the octagon. The screens be- tween the piers are practically identical in composition in each of the three tiers, consisting of four unfiuted monolithic columns of breccia sta:^.zi}ia marble, the only difference being that in the first-story tier they are of the order of mutulary Doric, while the second and third tiers are Roman Ionic. The widest diameter of the Rotunda is 83 ft. 5^/^ in. The inside diameter of the dome at base is 71 ft. The visitor should also note the floors of the Rotunda and gal- leries. The former is of roseal Tennessee marble, with borders of green serpentine and Cipollino. The gallery floors are of pink Ten- nessee marble, with borders of Sienna marble. The wall bases, plinths for door trim, etc., are of the same material as the floorings. Lavatories for Men and for Women are situated in the North Wing of the ground story, the former on the west side, the latter on the east. i A catalogue of the collections of the National Gallery of Art is 1 now in press. A special illustrated catalogue of the Ralph Cross I Johnson Collection of. Padntings is on sale,i in the room containing these ! works. There are no other official catalogues on sale of any of the i collections in this Museum. Monographs of certain portions of the exhibits have been from time to time prepared by the Smithsonian Insti- 1 tution and may be found among its publications. j The museum contains four passenger elevators, two in the main i pavilion at E. of entrance; the other two W. of N. entrance. |j Division of space. The total available floor space of the museum is 468,118 sq. ft. At present more than half this space is open to the ipublic, the exhibits occupying all of the first and second stories, with the exception of one range, asi well as the north wing and pavilion and northwest range ofl the ground story. The collections of Natural History, Anthropol-i ogy, Biology, etc., which legitimately belong in this •building,!'! II THE NEW NATIONx\L MUSEUM 263 are at present seriously crowded because of the necessity of making room for twO' other collections : I. The National Gallery of Art (p. 271) and II: The World War His- torical Collection (p. 266), both of which will eventually be housed in buildings of their own. At present the War Exhibits occup}- the main floor Rotunda and the north wing and northwest range of the ground story. The 'National Gallery of Art is housed mainly in the Central Hall of the N. wing and the N. pavilion, together with the entrance pavilion of the ground story. There are no Natural History exhibits in the ground story. The first story (apart from the rooms occupied by the National Gallery of Art), is divided almost equally between the exhibits of Anthropology, Biology and Geology. The aisles and pavilion of the N. wing, together with the northern sections of both ranges, are occupied by the Ethnological collection; the western wing and adjacent section of the western range are occupied by the collections of Mam- mals and Birds; the eastern wing contains the collections of Paleontology; and the adjoining section of the eastern wing is devoted to Physical and Chemical Geology. Second story: the W. wing and W. range are occupied mainly by collections of Reptiles, Fishes. Invertebrates and Osteological and various special exhibits ; the N. wing and eastern range contains Anthropological exhibits, illustrative of American and old- world Archaeology; the eastern wing is devoted to Geology (minerals and gems, also building and useful stones). b. The Vestibule and North Pavilion The visitor approaching the museum from the N. will find it most convenient to enter through the northern or B St. doorway, which opens directly into the ground story. In the vestibule, on L. of entrance, is a bronze panel in high relief, representing An Incident of the Mexican War, by Isidore Konti (1862- ). The army sent from Santa Fe to occupy California was met and defeated by the Mexicans at San Pasquale. The Ameirican forces were driven upon a butte in the desert on which there was no water, ind there surrounded by Mexicans. Edward F. Beale and Kit Carson, both famous explorers of the West, volunteered to slip through the iVIexican lines and obtain reinforcements from Stetson's fleet at San )iego. The artist has represented them at the moment when they liscover the fleet. Opposite, at R. end of the vestibule are the *Bronze iDooRS for the W. entrance of the United States Capitol, ;lesigned and modeled in 1910 by Professor Louis Amateis, 264 RIDER'S WASHINGTON of Washington. They consist of a transom and two doors with an ornamental frame, all of bronze. The dimensions of the doors are 7 ft. 8^2 in. wide, and 9 ft. 6 in. high ; the height, including transom and frame, is 13 ft. 10 in. The transom represents "The Apotheosis of America"; America is represented seated in a chariot drawn b}' lions (typical of strength), and led by a child (signifying the superiority of the intellect over brute force). Beside the chariot are figures representing Education, Archi- tecture, Literature, Painting, Music, Sculpture Mining, Commerce and Industry. At R. and L. of transom are statuettes representing respec- tively, i'fcomas Jefferson and Benjamin Franklin. At the four corners of this panel are medallion portraits of George Peabody, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Horace Mann and Johns Hopkins. The eight panels of the doors (from upper left-hand panel down- ward) represent: i. Jurisprudence; 2. Science; 3. Fine Arts; 4. Min- ing; 5. (upper right-hand panel), Agriculture; 6. Iron and Electricity; 7. Engineering; 8. Naval Architecture and Commerce. Each panel is flanked by statuettes and medallions of men famous in these several lines of achievement. I. Jurisprudence. This panel represents the Supreme Court of the United States, with Chief Justice John Marshall presiding. Stat- uettes: (R.) James Madison; (I4.) Daniel Webster. Medallions: Patrick Henry, Chief Justice Roger B. Taney and Rufus Choate. II. Science. A group of world's greatest scientists, from Hippar- chus, the Egyptian astronomer, to Charles Darwin. Statuettes: (R.) Joseph Henry, physicist; (L.) Oliver Wolcott Gibbs, chemist. Medal- lions: James D. Dana, geologist; Simon Newcomb, astronomer; Alex- ander Graham Bell, inventor of the telephone; and Samuel F. B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph. III. l""ine Arts. This is represented by a group including Homer, Virgil, Dante, Shakespeare, Goethe, Hugo, Palestrina, Beethoven and Rossini. Statuettes: Edgar Allan Poe and William Thornton, architect of the original Capitol. Medallions: (R.) H. K. Brown and (L.) Gilbert. Stuart. IV. Mining. This represents a scene in a mine. Statuettes: (R.) Alexander Holley, metallurgist; (L.) James W. Marshall, discoverer of gold in California. Medallions: (R. to L.) Abram S. Hewitt, states- man; Clarence King, geologist; E. B. Case, engineer. V. Agriculture. A harvest scene. Statuettes: (R.) James Wilson, agriculturist; (L.) Samuel G. Morton, ethnologist. Medallions: (R. to L.) Benjamin Bussey, agricultural chemist; Justin S. Morrill, United States Senator; J. P. Norton, agricultural chernist. VI. Iron and Electricity. Scene showing group of iron and electric workers. Statuettes: (R.) H. A. Rowland, physicist; (L.) Peter Cooper, philanthropist. Medallions: (R.) Thomas A. Edison, 1 inventor; (L.) Matthias W. Baldwin, founder of locomotive works. \ VII. Engineering. A scene with workers laying railroad tracks.. In the background is a long bridge. Statuettes: (R.) Thomas L. i Casey, engineer; (L.) James B. Eads, builder of the St. Louis Bridge., Medallions: (R.) Stevens, founder of Stevens Institute; (L.) Wash- 1 ington L. Roebling, builder of the Brooklyn Bridge. J VIII. Naval Architecture and Commerce. A Figure typifyingi* Architecture is showing to Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, on ai' globe held by a youth, the places where they can dispose of their wares. ; A sailor wearing a liberty cap symbolizes the "open door" policy. Stat- uettes: (R.) John Ericsson, inventor of the Monitor: (L.) Robert ; Fulton, inventor of the steamboat. Medallions: (upper R.) Elias Howe, THE NEW NATIONAL MUSEUM 265 inventor of the sewing machine; (upper L.) Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton gin; (below,. R. tc L.) John Lenthall, naval constructor; Cyrus W. Field, layer of first Atlantic cable; John C. Fremont, the "Pathfinder." These doors are temporarily deposited here, awaiting the contem- plated remodeling of the West front of the Capitol. From the vestibule, we enter directly the spacious Lobby, finished in white marble and containing the following- sculp- tures and paintings : (W. to E.) I. Frederick J. Waiigh, The Knight of the Hody Grail (painting) ; 2. Derwent Wood, William Pitt, Earl of Chatham (MaI^ble statue presented in 1915, by American women living in the United Kingdom, as a memorial of the hundred years peace between England and America) ; 3. Preston Pozvers, Bust of Justin Smith Morrill (marble) ; 4, Bronze Image of "The Buddha of Five Wisdoms," Toku- gawa Period. According to Japanese inscription on back of Buddha, the image was made by Saburo-biyoye Katsiitane, and offered to the Temple of Joshozan Soan, in Yamada, Seishui in 1648. 5. Attributed to Harriet Hosnier, Esmeralda (marble) ; 6. Henry Kitson, Victor Emanuel III (bronze bust) ; 7. Vin-^ nie Ream Hox^ie, Sappho (mai^ble) ; 8. Joseph Hosier, II Penseroso (marble) ; 9. Heijry H. Kitson, James Bryce, Ambassador to United States, 1907-13 (bronze bust) ; lO. Elisahet Ney, Mrs. Siddons as Lady Macbeth (marble) ; II. Edward Moran, First recognition of the American Flag by a Foreign Government (painting) ; 12. Ferdinand Pcttrich, Statue of George Washington (plaster model) ; 13. Edward Kemeys, Panther and Cubs (bronze) ; 14. Model of Columns (actual size) from iPortal of Maya Temple in the prehistoric City of Chichen Itza, Yucatan; 15. Edward Kemeys, The Still Hunt (ibronze) ; 16. Edzvard Moran, Burning of the Frigate Philadelphia (painting) ; 17. Andrew O'Connor, Model of proposed monument to Commodore John Barry, ; "Father oif the United States Navy"; 18. Edzvard Moran, Midnight Mass on the Mississippi (painting) ; 19. The Same. The Brig Armstrong Engaging a British Fleet; 20. Branko Dechkovitch, The Victory of Liberty (gift of the sculptor) ; 21. Ferdinand Pettrich, Death of Tecumseh i (marble). 1 The Northeast Range, entered by door on L., contains Administrative Offices and the small but important Library of the National Museum, containing the collection of works relating to the field covered by the Museum exhibits. Open |to the public for reference only, week days, 9 A. M. to 4:30 P. M. 266 RIDER'S WASHINGTON c. The World War Historical Collection Northwest Range : World War Historical Collection. While this is a temporary installment, it may remain several years, as no definite plans for an adequate building have yet been made. The exhibits comprise mainly uniforms and equip- ment, guns and ammunition and original paintings for war- time posters. Through the W. door of the Lobb}' we enter the— Northwest Range, North Aisle. The center of this aisle is occupied by 15 large cases, beginning with E. Wall Case: I. Belgian Uniforms; 2. War Decorations: British, French, Belgian, German, Austrian, Bulgarian and Turkish ; 3. Uni- forms : British, Japanese and United States : 4. Rifles, bay- onets, etc., French and German ; 5. German Uniforms, includ- ing one actually worn by Chancellor Bethmann-Hollweg; 6. German Field equipment, including knapsacks, field maps, etc. ; also New Zealand insignia ; 7. German army uniforms. Cor- poral, private, etc. ; Austrian uniforms. Prince, General, Major, Captain; 8. German food containers; 9. Austrian uniforms continued; Turkish tmiforms; 10. German epaulettes, etc.; II. Italian uniforms; 12. German swords and bayonets, also helmets and caps used in Turkish service ; 13. Italian army uniforms continued ; 14. German weapons continued ; pistols, bayonets and swords; 15. (W. Wall Case), Italian uniforms continued, including the uniform of General Diaz. West Aisle, Central Cases (N. to S.) : i. (N. Wall Case), German shells and shell baskets ; 2. German shells continued : 1916 pattern field gun shells ; 75 mm. light minenwerf er smoke shells, etc. ; 3. German gas alarms ; 4. French trace shells, incendiary shells, gas shells, etc.; 5. French flame j;)rojectors; German smoke producers ; 6, British respirators. P. H. hel- mets, etc., French 'masks ; 7. Italian smoke candles. Austrian incendiary bombs ; 8. Italian, German and Austrian masks ; 9. British Livens projector, etc. 10. British electric detona- tor; German projectors; 11. British mortars; 12. Hand gre- nades, position lights, rifles, etc. ; 13. Rangefinders ; 14-16. Browning machine gun and other types of machine guns; 17. Incendiary bombs; H. C. B. bomb Mark III, etc. 18. Artillery and cavalry sabres; 19. French Chauchat automatic rifle; 20. (S. Wall Case), Army spades and shovels, Amer- ican and English. Extending beside Cases 15-19 is: The Propelling Machinery from ex-German Submarine U. B. 14? In returning to entrance the visitor may now inspect the right- hand Wall Cases: , i.t: THE WORLD WAR COLLECTION 267 E. Wall Cases (S. to N.) : i. Italian mustard gas suit and mittens ; 2-3. French mustard gas suits, warning signs, etc.; 4, Diagram showing formation of gas clouds; 5-7. Horse mask, K. T. mask, A. T. mask, etc., showing method of manufacture. N. Aisle, S. Wall (W. to E.) : i. British, Canadian, Piper Gordon Highlander uniforms and equipment; also wom- en's war uniforms and equipment; 2. New Zealand, Punjabis, Russian Expeditionary force of British army uniforms and equipment; 3. Air service, Canadian Highlanders. Welsh Fusilliers, Australian, uniforms and equipment; also copy of uniform worn by Field Marshal Sir Douglas Haig; 4. French Colonial, African Chasseurs, Tirailleurs, Indo-Chinese uni- forms and equipment; 5. French cavalry, artillery, Algerian Tirailleurs, Chasseur a Pied, Spahis (African), Army nurse, uniforms and equipment ; 6. French uniforms continued, includ- ing uniform^ as worn by Marechal Foch. Collection of Original Paintings for Liberty Loan Post- ers (given by the artists). S. Wall, beginning at entrance door (E. to W.) : i. Francis C. Jones, Home Again; 2. Ossip Perelma, Portrait of Marshal Joffre ; 3. George Elmer Broivne, The Sinking of Unarmed Fishermen off the Coast ot Cape Cod. 4. Philip R. Goodwin. Charge on the Hinden- burg Line of the 105th Inf. 27th Division ; 5. Clifford Ulp. Gen. Allenby in Palestine; 6. Ossip Perelma, Portrait of Gen. Collardet; 7. John C. Todahl, The iRescue; 8. H. C. Murphy, Jr., The 27th Division Breaking the Hindenburg Line; 9. IV ni. de la Montagne Gary, The Warrior's Return; 19. Fred. Dana Marsh, Over the Rhine; to Victory; 11. Louis P. Bernekcr, The Wall Between ; 12. John F. Parker, Retreat of the Serbian Army; 13. Charles Hopkinson, The Sinking of the Hospital Ship ; 14. James Knox, First Attack of the Tanks ; 15. /. D. IVhiting, Army Transport ; 16. Hozmrd Giles, Boys O'f the 165th Infantry Breaking Through; 17. Eva Brook Donly, Arrival at Baltimore of U-Boat Deutschland; 18. Reynolds Seal, Sinking of the U. S. S. Jones; 19. Edzvard H. Potthast, The Argonne ; 20. Harry L. Hoffman, The Argonne; 21. Fred J. Hoertz:, Cargo Carriers; 22. Frank ' Tenney Johnson, Cam.el Supply Train Resting ; 23. Sidney E. ''Dickinson, The First Raid on the Americans, -Nov. 3, 1917; I 24. Parker Nezvton, Victory Fleet in the North River ; 25. I James Weiland, Signing of the Armistice. W. Aisle, N. Wall (W. to E.) : Thornton Oakley, The Cannon Maker ; 2. H. Bolton Jones, The Finger O'f the Hun ; 3. O. P^/'i'/wM/ Operation on a Hero of the War; 4. H. Bol- 268 RIDER'S WASHINGTON ion Jones, Wiheat for the Allies; 5. F. C. Stahr, "Go-to- Hell" Whittlesey and the Lost Battalion; N. Aisle. W. Wall; 6. Carl Rengitis, Bringing up the Guns; 7. Matilda Bronmc, Belgian Refugees; 8. W. C. Rice, The Night Raiders, E. Wall; 9. Nathan Dolinsky, The Battalion of Death; 10. Hozvard Russell Butler, Crime by Moonlight; 11. John C. Johansen, Gas land High Explosives. N. Wall ; 12. Ossip L. Linde, Louvain; 13. E. L. Blumenschein, Portrait of Charles \. Lembke, 91st Division; 14. Willard D. Paddock, "They Shall Not Pass" (bas-relief). Returning through the Lobby, the visitor now proceeds through south central door tO' — Central Gallery. World IVar Collection continued; Cen- tral Exhibits (N. to S.)- i. Gen. Electric 38-inch barrel type searchlight ; 2. Gen. Electric Model No. 2 60-inch open tyipe Searchlight; 3. Model of standard type Trench and Cave Shelter Chamber "Dugout" ; 4. Engineer pack train equip- ment, consisting of four pairs of boxes ; 5. Light gas railway locomotive, used by Expeditionary Force in France ; 6. Alod- els of Ponton wagons. Ponton bridges, etc. ; 7. Company car- penter chests ; 8, Limber and Caisson wagon, Brill type ; har- ness, Artillery type. W. Side Exhibits (S. to N.) : i. Model of camouflaged gun position; 2. Parabolic listening device; 3. American sound-ranging set; 4. American flash-ranging set; 5. Gen. Electric 60-inch barrel type Searchlight; 6. Photographic and drafting equipment. E. Side Exhibits (N. to S.) : i. Field dental equipment; portable dental chair ; 2. Medical equipment ; 3. Portable dis- infector or delousing machine; 4. Liberty kitchen; 5. Red Cross ambulance. Collection of Liberty Loan I^aintings, continued. N. Wall, W. of Entrance Door: i. Hugo Rosenfield, The Effect of the Long Range Gun, Paris ; 2. Felecie Waldo Howell, Re- turn of the 27th Division, Marching up Fifth Avenue; 3. Or- lando Rouland, Portrait; 4. Ebcn F. Comins, Juist Home From Over There; 5. Emily Nichols Hatch, Washington's Birthday: The 77th Division Parades on Fifth Avenue. West Wall (iN. to S.) : i. Laura A. Fry, Her Dream; 2. Colin Campbell Cooper, Forward (The Crusaders) ; 3- E. L. Blumenschein, The Long Range Gun in Paris ; 4- Charles Hopkinson, The Sinking of the Lusitania; 5, Charles S. Chapman, Allies; 6. ^^aul King, Major-Gon. Hugh L. Scott; 7. Henry Salem Hubbcll, Capt. Walter B. Flannery; |^ 8. Capt. H. Ledyard Tozvle, Capt. Eddie Rickenbacker ; 9. THE WORLD WAR COLLECTION 269 /. Mort'wier Lichtenauer, Brig. Gen. Palmer E. Pierce; 10. Blendon R. Campbell, Brig. Gen. Cornelius Vanderbilt; II. William Woodward, Col. Allison Owen; 12. Martha Wheeler Baxter, Portrait; 13. Helen Watson Phelps, Dr. Henry Van Dyke; 14. Martha Walter, Brig. Gen. Charles L. de Bevoise; 15. Kenneth Frader, Signing of the Armistice. On W. Row of Columns (S. to N.) : i. George Varian, The Crumbling of the San Mihiel Salient; 2. John O. Todahl, Prey of the U-Boat ; 3. Douglas E. Parshall, British Infantry at Arras Cathedral ; 4. George N. Richards, The Accolade; 5. Arthur E. Bechcr, Sergeant Brown Captures His Huns ; 6. Richard V, Schluter, The Leviathan Return- ing With the 27th Division. East Row of Columns (N. to S.) : i. James G. Tyler, Torpedoed; 2. C. A. Aiken, Battle of Dogger Bank; 3. O, H. Von Gottschalk, Fair Game for the Hun; 4. Richard V. Schluter, Standing By to the Rescue; 5,. Clara Weaver Parrish, Deportations of the Belgians ; 6. /. W. Weaver, Naval Guns in Action; 7. John I. H. Doivnes, German Cruiser Emdcn Destroyed by Australian Cruiser Sidney; 8. Truman E. Fassett, Naval Guns in Action on French Soil. East Wall (S. to N.). i. Carroll T. Berry, Battle of Siechprey; 2. Clifford Carleton, The 77th Division Leaves New York; 3. Richard V. Schluter^ Victims of the Sub- marine; 4. Howard Russell Butler, Eagle and -Shark; 5. Andrew T. Schwartz, The First American Shell ; 6. Charles F. Rosen, The Marines Attack; 7. John O. Todahl, A Clean Hit; 8. E. N. Vanderpocl, Ypres After the War; 9. F. K. Detwiller, Ships and More Ships ; 10. Harry C. Edwards, Edith Cavell Next; 11. Allyn Cox, Across the Piave ; 12. Os^ip Pcrelma, Portrait; 13. The Same, Rear Adm. R. P. Rogers; 14. Arthur M. Hazard, "Not by Might." North Wall (E. to W.) : i. John F. Barker, Zero Hour; i 2. Ehen Cumins, Colored Hero ; 3. The Same, Wounded I Soldier; 4. Edwin A. Blashfield, "The Spirit of the Past will , Carry the Future to Victory" ; 5. Theodore Oakley, Inistconck. ' Doors in West Wall give admission to — ' Rooms 44, 45, 46 and 47, containing Paintings and Draw- \ ings made by the Official Military artists of the American ] Expeditionary Forces in France during the War with _ Ger- \\ viany. The following eight artists are represented : William |i James Aylward, W. J. Duncan, Harvey Dunn, George ^l Harding, W. J. Morgan, Ernest C. Peixotto, J. Andre^ Smith jl and Harry Townsend. The collection comprises 497 pictures. 1: Room 47 also contaiins a *Collectiox of 82 Drawings in pencil, 2/0 RIDER'S WASHINGTON pen, charcoal, chalk, crayon and water color, executed and signed by Eminent Contemporary French Artists, and pre- sented to the people of the United States by the citizens of the French Republic as a token of their appreciation of the sympathetic efforts of American citizens toward relieving the distress occasioned by the European War. This notable collection was received in July, 191 5. Doors in East Wall of Central Gallery lead into— Rooms 2>7i 38, 39 and 40, containing respectively : X-ray equipment; types of folding beds^^ invalid chairs, etc.; physio- theraphy; and U. S. Army equipment in Post and Base Hospitals. Facing the S. end of the Central Hall and directly under the Rotunda, is a spacious Auditorium with a seating capacity of 565 (one of the side doors is usually open through which the visitor may obtain a glimpse of the interior.) From the corridor, fronting on the Auditorium, stairs ascend R. and L. to the main or First floor, where doors open directly upon a circular corridor surrounding — The Rotunda : Occupied temporarily by the Naval Exhibits of the World War Collection. These comprise various types of torpedoes; models of torpedo boats, eagle boats, mine sweepers, etc. ; hydrophones used to locate submarines ; a paravane, a British device to protect vessels from moored mines; "Y" gun, or depth charge projector; and a primer that fired the last shot against the Germans from one of the U. S. Naval Railway Batteries. Note especially the *Model of Bellean Woods, from a survey by the Topographical Detach- ment, U. S. Marine Corps. The Circular Corridor surrounding the Rotunda contains the following paintings and sculptures, beginning at N. door- way (R. to L.) : I. Augustus St. Gaudens, Bronze Bust of Lincoln, from statue in Lincoln Park, Chicago; 2. Herbert Adams, Bronze statue of Joseph Henry; 3. Portrait of Henry Clay; 4. Portrait of William W. Corcoran; 5. Rear Adm. Andrew Hull Foote, U. S. N. (pilaster cast) ; 6. Rear Adm. Charles Henry Davis, U. S. N. (plaster cast) ; 7. Paul W. Bartleii, Equestrian statue* of Lafayette (plaster cast of the bronze statue erected in 1900, in the Court of Honor of the Louvre, Paris, by the school children of the United States) ; 8. John F. Weir, Statue of Benjamin Silliman (original plas- ter model for bronze statue at Yale University) ; 9. John J. Boyle, Chippewa familv (bronze group) ; 10. Dona Pond. Portrait of Admiral W. S. Benson, U. S. A.; 11. Artist Un- knozvn. Portrait of Andrew Jackson; 12. A)ine Whitney, ^ THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART 271 Bronze statue; 13. Piaster statue, life size, of Baron Kam- onno-Kami Naosuke, pioneer diplomat of Japan ; 14. Plaster statue, Francis Scott Key Alemorial; 15. /. Connor, statue of Robert Emmet. d. The National Gallery of Art North Wing: Central Hall: *National Gallery of Apt. The main portion of this art collection is housed temporarily in this Hall; and is shown to surprisingly good advantage in view of the fact that the lighting facilities were not pri- marily designed for art exhibits., History. The National Gallery of Art, the legal depository of all objects of art belonging to the Nation, had its inception in the Act of Congress approved Aug. 10, 1846, establishing the Smithsonian Institution and directing that, in addition to a Natural History Museum, provision should also be made for "a chemical laboratory, a library, a gallery of art, etc." In planning the Smithsonian building the Board of Regents set aside two galleries 60 ft. in length, and soon afterwards in- creased the small nucleus of poirtraits, husts and miscellaneous paintings, by the successive purchases of the Marsh collection of prints, Catlin's "Indian Gallery," and the temporary deposit of the J. M. Stanley collection of Indian paintings. Serious discouragement resulted from the disastrous fire which, ^ in 1865, burned out the second story of the Smithsonian Institu- tion, destroying a large portion of the art collection, including the Stanley paintings. The surviving works were removed the paintings and statuary to the Corcoran Gallery, and the engravings to the Library of Congress. Many years later the majority of these were returned to the Smithsonian. Little of importance, however, occurred until 1903, when the Harriet Lane Johnston collection of paintings and other art work was bequeathed to the Corcoran Art Gallery, subject to the condi- tion that should a National Gallery be established in Washing- ton they should become the property of that Gallery. Since it was evident that Mrs. Johnston had been unaware of the existence of the collection in the Smithsonian Institution.^ a friendly suit was started to decide whether this collection was within the meaning and intent of the law a National Gallery of Art. The Supreme Court of the District of Col- umbia decreed that it was, and in 1906 awarded the Johnston collection to the Institution. The National Gallery of Art ; thereupon assumed its present title, but continued to be ad- ] ministered in connection with the National Museum until July I I, 1920, when, by Act of Congress, its connection with the 272 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Museum was severed, and it became the seventh administrative branch under the Institution. The permanent collection now includes the following im- portant units : I. The Harriet Lane JohustiUi Collection, comprising 31 pieces, paintings, marbles and miscellaneous objects. II. The IVUliam T. Ezvus Collection, Mr. Evans, a citizen of Montclair. N. J., in 1907 announced his intention of donating 36 representative paintings of American artists. Subsequently he gradually increased the number, with the result that now (1922) the Evans Collection includes 151 paintings, representing 106 ^ contemporary American artists, besides many wood-engravings. III. The Charles L. Freer Collection, presented in 1906, and now Ma\^, 1922, being arranged in a new gallery (p. ), situated S. W. of the old Smithsonian Building, and soon to be opened to the public. IV. Contemporary French Drawings. In July, 1915, the National Galler}^ received from France a collection of draw- ings by 82 contemporary French artists, all of which are autographed. V. The Ralph Cross Johnson Collection, received in 1919, and consisting of 24 paintings by old blasters, Dutch, Flemish, Italian and English. VI. The 'Rev. Alfi^ed Duane Pell Collection of porcelains, potteries and antique furniture. Entrance Alcove (E. to W.) : Ignacio Ziiloaga, Rosita; Gabrini, Grand Canal, \''enice ; /. William Fosdick, Adoration of St. Joan of Arc (Fire etching) ; Eliliu Vcdder, The Cup of Death; Elliott Daingcrfield, The Child of Alary: William Ba.vter Closson, The Angel; Hugo Ballin, The Sybilla Europa prophesies the Massacre of the Innocents; Jose de Ribcra, Job and his Comforters. Through central N. door we enter — Room A. North Wall (E. to W.). Stanley Grant Middleton, (1852- ), Portrait of Hon. Andrew D. White; Lucian N. Pozcell (1846- ). Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River; Carroll Beckzcith (1852-1917). The Blacksmith; George da Madura Piexotto, Portrait of Julius Bien, Sr. ; Sydney Laurence, "The Top of the Continent." Mt. AIcKinley, Alaska: Arvid F. Nyholm {1^166- ). Capt. John Ericsson. West Wall: Tliomas Mof'ati, Grand Canyon of the Yel- ' lowstone. South Wall: /. J'an Lerius (1823-76), Death Preferred; Frederick E. Church (1826-1900), Aurora Borealis ; Henry \ THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART ^^i Ulke (1821-1910), Portrait of Joseph Henry; Thomas LeClear, Gen. U. S. Grant; Edward Moran, The Ocean, the Highway of all Nations; Alexander H. Wyant (1836-92), The Flume— Opalescent River, Adirondacks. East Wall: Thomas Buchanan Read (1822-72), Portrail of Thomas Buchanan Read ; Gilbert Stuart, George Washing- ton (lent by Supreme Court of District of Columbia) ; W. H. Fisk (1797-1873), Portrait of George Catlin. The N. door leads into — Room B. North Wall (E. to W.), George Innness (1825- 94), Elf Ground; William Sartain (1843- ;, Algerian Water Carrier; Nicolaas Berchcm (1620-83), Landscape with Cattle; William Morris Hunt (1824-79), The Spouting Whale. West Wall: William Jiirian KanJa (1871 — ), Evening; John W. fi-atty (1851- ), Plymouth Hills; Henry Ward Ranger (1858-1916), Entrance to the Harbor; W. S. Conrow, Portrait of Dr. W. H. Dall ; Charles Melville Dewey (1849- ), The Close of Day; Guy C. Wiggins (1883- ), Gloucester Harbor; John Francis Murphy (1853-1921), The Path to the Village; G. P. A. Hcaly (1808-94), Portrait of William C. Preston; Arthur Turnhull Hill, After a Storm, Amagansett ; Chawicey Foster Eydcr (1868- ), Landscape. South Wall: Salvatti Aly, The Adieu; Jean Gustave Jacquet, Female Head; Eastman Johnson (1824-1906), Portrait of Mrs. Cross ; Eisman Semenowski, Head of Young Woman. East Wall: Worthington Whitteredge (1820-1910), Noon in the Orchard ; Eugene Verboeckhoven, Sheep ; Mrs. M. Leslie BusJi-Brown, Portrait of Miss Ellen Day Hale; Childe Hassam (1859- )> The Georgian Chair; Frederick B. Williams (1872- ), Conway Hills; Homer D. Martin, The Iron Mine, 1 Port Henry, N. Y. ; Flarriet Blackstone, Soldat de Crimee; ! /. Alden Weir (1852-1919), A Gentlewoman; Osman Hamdy Bey (1842-1910), Tomb of "Mahomet the Gentleman," at Broussa ; Hillner, Alpine Landscape. 1 Room C. {William T. Evans Collection). North Wall: Henry Golden Dearth (1864- ), Chu-rch at Montreuil ; Wyatt Eaton (1849-96), ^Portrait of William T. Evans; Thomas Wilmcr Dciving (1851- ), Summer. I j West Wall : Edward Lord Weeks, Hindoo Merchants ; ICarleton Wiggins (1848- ), Evening After a Shower; ^Theodorff Robinson (1852-96), La Vachere ; H. Hobart \Nichols (1869- ), Moonrise at Ogunquit; E. Irving Cause ((1866- y, Elk-Foot, Pueblo Tribe; Robert F. Blum, (1857- I1903), Canal in Venice, San Travaso Quarter; W. Granville 274 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Smith (1870- ), Grey Day; /. Foxcroft Cole (1837-92), Late Afternoon near Providence; Frank De Haven (1856- ), Castle Creek Canyon, South Dakota. South Wall: Will H. Loiu (1853- ), ^Christmas Morn; Otto Walter Beck (1864- ), "Suffer the Little Children to come unto Me" (three panels) ; George Fuller (1822-84), Portrait of Henry B. Fuller; Charles Frederick Naegele (1857), Mother Love; George Fuller, Ideal Head; Otto Walter Beck, Christ hefore Pilate. East Wall: IrzHng R. Wiles (1S61- ), Russian Tea: Homer D. Martin (1836-97), Evening on the Seine; William E. Norton (1848-1916), Night Attack on the General Arm- strong off Pico, Azores; Irving R. Wiles, *The Brown Kimono ; Sanford R. Gifford, The Villa Malta ; George Inness, ^September Afternoon; Frederick S. Church, *The Black Orchid; Homer D. Martin, Lower Ausable Pond; Charles Wan-en Eaton, (1857- ), Gathering Mists; John La Farge (1835-1910), *Visit of Nicodemus to Christ. In the centre of the room : Bronze Bust of William T. Evans (1904), by /. S. Hartley (1845-1912). Room D {William T. Evans Collection, continued) : North Wall: (E. to W.) : Elisabeth Nourse (i86a- ), Fisher Girl of Picardy; Anders Zorn (1860-1920), Portrait of a Lady; John W. Alexander, June. West Wall: /. H. Twachtman (1853-1902), The End of Winter ; William E. Norton, Mussel Gatherers ; /. Francis Murphy (1853-1921), Indian Summer; Alexander H. Wyant, Spring; Leon Dabo (1868), Evening on the Hudson; Wiilinm M. Chase (1849- ), Shinnecock Hills; Corieton Wiggins, The Pastue Lot; George Glenn Nezvell (1870- ), Mists of the Morning; Cluirlotte B. Coman (1833- ), Early Summer; Frank A. Bicknell (1866- ). October Morning; Alfred C. Hou'land (1838-1909), Friendly Neighbors: R. Szrnin Gifford, On the Lagoon, Venice; /. Aldcn Weir, Upland Pasture. South Wall: Childe Hassain, Sunrise, Navesink High- lands: Lillian M. Genth, Adagio; Frederick M. Waiigh, * After a North-Easter ;• C/iflr/c^? Melville Dezcey (1849- ), The Harvest Moon ; Lillian M. Genth, Depth of the Woods. East Wall : Bruce Crane, Afternoon ; Guy C. Wiggins,, Columbus Grcle, Winter ; /. H. Twachtman, Fishing Boats at Gloucester; Ben Foster (i8S2s ), Birch-Clad Hills; William Langson Lathrop, The Three Trees; Emil Carlsen,; The South Strand; /. H. Tivachtman, Round Hill Road; The Same, The Torrent; Leonard Ochfinan. Morning Haze;i Frederick S. Church, Circe. , THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART 275 Centre Case: Selections from Recent Bequest of Mrs. Mary Huston Eddy, including Isabey, Marie Antoinette ; The Same, Duchess of Devonshire; Nodirt (After Lc Brim), Mme. Le Brun and Child; Artist Unknown, Taj Mahal; Artist Unknozvn, Sultana of Shah Jehan. Returning through RooiUi B, we reach, through N. door — • Room E. North Wall (E. to W.) : Albert Pike Lewis, Octoher Breezes; George de Forest Brush (1855- ), The Moose Chase; Louis Paul Dcssar (1867- ), The Watering Place; Frederick^ Ballard Williams (1872- ), A Glade by the Sea; Ralph A. Blakelock, Sunset, Navarro Ridge; Paul Dougherty (1877- ), Sun and Storm. West Wall : Henry W. Ranger, The Cornfield ; Douglas Volk, *The Boy With the Arrow ; Henry IV. Ranger, Groton Long Point Dunes; George Inness, Sundov/n; Henry IV. Ranger, *Bradbury's Mill Pond No. 2; Clara Tagart Mac- Chesney, A Good Story; Henry IV. Ranger, Connecticut Woods. South Wall : George Inness, Niagara ; William Henry Hozve (1846- ), Monarch of the Farm; George H. Bogert (1864- ), Sea and Rain; Charles H. Davis (1856- ). Sum- mer; Albert L. Groll (1866- ), Laguna — 'New Mexico; Charles Paul Gruppe (i860- ), The Meadow Brook. East Wall: William S. Robinson (1861- ), Monhegan Headlands; Alphonse Jongers (1872- ), ^Portrait of William T. Evans; Edward Gay (1837- ), The Hillside; George Elmer Broume (1871- ), The Wain Team; James Henry Moser (1854-1913), Evening Glow, Mt. Mclntire; Orlando Rouland (1871- ), Portrait of J. J. Shannon; Winslozv Homer, *High Cliff, Coast of Maine. The N. door opens into — Room F. North Wall (E. to W.) : Attributed to .Raphael, Madonna and Child; Narcisse Diaz de la Pena 1(1809-74), Landscape; Walter ShirJazv, Study of Head — I Madam Capri. I West Wall : Herman Safteven, Landscape ; Harrington ^Fitzgerald (1847- ), The Wreck; Wyatt Eaton. Ariadne; \ George Henry Story (1835- ), Portrait of Abraham Lin- Icoln; Adriene Moreau (1843-1906), Cro^ssing the Ferry; Henry Siddons Mozvbray (1858- ), Idle Hours; Artist Un- knozvn, George Washington; Walter Shirlazv, Water Lilies; \Miigene Louis Gabriel Isabey, The Gathering Storm. ; South Wall: Loii'is Paul Dessar (1867- ), Return to the iFold; Frank Duveneck (1848- ), Portrait of Walter Shir- |law; Frank B. Mayer, Independence; /. Aid en JVeir, Port- irait of Wyatt Eaton. ^-j^y RIDER'S WASHINGTON East Wall: F. C. Church, Mountain Scene; Roswell M. Shmtleff (1838-1915), The Mysterious Woods; IVilliam Edgar Marshall (1837-96), Portrait of Henry W. Long- fellow; A. G. Powers, Portrait of Franklin Pierce; Mar Bohm (1868- ), The Happy Mother; George IV. Maynard, Dr. Edward Maynard; George P. A. Healy, Portrait of John Tyler; /. Diday (1854- ), Mountain Scene; William H. Holmes, The Wanderlusters. The E dcor leads into — Room G. (Ralph Cross Johnson Collection). North Wall (E. to W.): John Constable (1776-1837), Dedham. Vale- Summer Morning-; Francesco Giiardi (1712-93), View in Rome, with the Church of Ara Coeli ; Titian, Portrait of a Cardinal; Francesco Giiardi, Ruins and Figures. West Wall: Sir Thomas Lazvrence (1769-1830), Portrait of Mrs. Towry; William Hogarth (1697-1764), Portrait of Mrs. Price; Giacomo Francia (1486-1557), The Mystic Mar- riage of St. Catherine of Alexandria; Nicholaes Maes (1632- 93), A Burgomaster; Govaert Flinch, (1615-60), Madonna and Child; Sir Henry Raeburn (1756-1823), Portrait of Archibald Skirving, Esq.; George Romncy (1734-1802), Portrait of Sir Sampson Wright. South Wall: Sir Joshua Reynolds (1722,-92), Portrait of Viscount Hill; /. M. IV. Turner (1775-1851), Edinburgh: A Painting of Sunlight and Air; Richard Wilson (1714-82), Summer Afternoon About 4 P. M. ; Lorenzo Lotto (1480- 1554), A Venetian Senator; Sebastiano Mainardi (d. 1513). Madonna and Child; Sir Joshua Reynolds, The Duchess of Ancaster ; David Cox, Outskirts of a Wood. East Wall : Thomas Gainsborough, A Family at the Cottage Door; Rembrandt, Portrait of a Man Wearing a, Large Hat; Peter Paul Rubens, The Holy Family, with St. Elizabeth; Richard Wilson, Grand Italian Landscape: Sun- set Glow; Bernard Van Orley (1493-1542), The Virgin and Child: Sir Thomas Laurence, Portrait of Lord Abercorn; Thomas Gainsborough, Lord Mulgrave in Naval Uniform. Returning across Room F to W. door, we reach — Room H : Harriet Lane Johnston Collection. North Wall : (E. to W.) : Rembrandt Pcale, George Washington (loaned) ; Charles W. Peale, George Washington (loaned) ; Thomas Rossiter, The Prince of Wales (Edward VII) at Washin?:- ton's Tomb; George Frederick JJ'atts, Love and Life: Rc''. J. A. Ocrtel, The Walk to Gethsemene: Artist Unknoum (after Correggio), Aladonna and Child; Francis Pourbus the\\ Younger (1569-1622). Portrait of Tosepha Bocgart. THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART 2-77 West Wall: Oiho V- Moss trunk, the inner surface of the mold being covered by the large rhomboidal figures of leaf-cushions, characteristic of the Lepi'dodendron; Complete brain-like calcarious Algae, from Wellington limestone; Cycad, trunk with small leaf scars; Fronds of various species of extinct ferns from Pennsylvania coal beds; Clay with leaves of fossil fig and magnolia. Eocene period; Classified collection illustrating North American fossil plants: Petrified remains of a low form of coral life, pressed into true coralline reefs; Grottp of silicified fossil logs; Dark impressions of the Ulodendron, giant fossil trees which contributed much material in the formation of coal ; Fossil oaks, the original w-ooden material replacea ' by opal; Polished^ cross-sections of tree trunks changed toi opal, but still' showing the original woody structure; Fossil palm tree, preserved in fine-grained shaile, showing the apex of the trunk, with a crown ofi six leaves. Main Floor continued: Eastern Range: Mineralogy: East wall-cases (S. to N.): i. Specimens of rock' showing various forms of faulting and of faulting cleavage 2. (on platform) : fine large specimens of folded Jasper}, hematite; 3. (platform): Specimens of potholes in Basalt/ 4. Blocks of limestone showing glacial action; 5. a. (S. side) j Specimens illustrating glaciers and glacial phenomena; b. (Nlj| side): Specimens of volcanic dust; specimens of deep--^-": ■ deposits ; exhibits illustrating the decompositon of rocks the origin of sediments ; 6. Relief Map of the United Sta showing the theoretical restoration of the Ancient Ice Shoe; at the statge of the Glacial period, following the maim sil! epoch. 7. Coillection of Imitative Forms, assumed by inlj organtic matter so closely resembling organic matter as ti be misleadinig. 8. Fine specimen of Glacial Pothole, f'l Concretionary Granite, 2 specimens. 00. a. (S. side) ; Ex|, PALEONTOLOGY OOLLECTION 287 hibits showing the prooesses of rock weathering and soil formation; b. (N. side) : Exhibit of vein formations in marble, dolomite, quartz, slate, etc. 11. (on platform) : Sand- stone concretions from near the mouth of Cannoin Ball River, North Dakota; 12 — \y. Collection illustrating- the process of concretionary structures ; Relief maps, photographs, trans- parencies and specimens illustrating the physical features of the Yellowstone National Park; 18. Stereogram of the Henry Mountains, Utah; 19. (on platform): Exhibit of Coiumnar Basalt from quarry near Asbach, Rhenish Prussia. 20. Map showing distribution of known meteoric falls in the United States. 21. Collection illustrating volcanoes and vol- canic phenomena. Note especially "Pele's Hair," from Kilauea crater, Hawaiian Islands, formed by the action of the wind in catching up the jets of boiling lava and stringing the mate- rial into long greenish brown fibres, in which form it cools too quickly to permit of crystallization. 22. (table case) : Con- tains specimens of North Carolina flexible sandstone; also exhibits illustrating the eruption, Jan. loth, 1914, of the long inactive volcano of Sakurajami, Japan; 22,. Siliceous and calcareous deposits from extinct hot springs in S. W. Wyoming; 24. a. (S. side) : Collection of Gypsum incrusta- tions, Selenite crystals and other cave formations, chiefly from the Mammoth Cave, Ky. ; stalagmite marble,\ travertine and calcareous tufa; b. (N. side) : Limestone caverns and associated phenomena ; stalactites and stalacmites ; exhibits illustrating cave life; the cave bat, blind cray fish, cave sala- mander and cave beetle; 25. Pictures and model of section of Marengo Cave, Indiana; 26-27. Stalactites continued; This case contains the most picturesque and popularly interesting part of this group. I Central Exhibits ('N, to S.) : These consist chiefly of the '^luseum's meteorite collection, containing altogether several lundred small specimens ; also, on W. side of the Range, casts of some of the largest known mieteorites. Case i. Portraits )f the principal geologists and paleontogists of former U. S. geological Surveys. 2. Collection of portraits of early Amer- ican Geologists and their works. 3. Meteoric iron. 4. Meteoric stony iron found in Christan Co., Ky. 5. Meteoric iron con- inued. 6. Meteorites : a. from Canyon Diablo, Ariz. ; b. from Tucson, Ariz, (known as the "Signet") ; c. from Casas jrandes, Chihuahua, Mex. 7. Case of meteorites arranged to ihow classification and other features. 8. Kugel Gabbro [Potatoe rock), from about 70 mi. S. E. of Christiania, fJorway. 10-13. Meteorites cont-imied. 288 RIDER'S WASHINGTON West AVall (S. to N.) : These cases contain a Systematic Collection of Rocks, classified according to the prevailing system also the following special exhibits: Relef map of Eureka District, Nevada ; Typical Rocks of the Gem Region : Collection illustrating the occurrence of Tourm'alin.e and other gems in the Pegmatites of southern California; Cast of Boculirito Meteorite; from State of Sinaloa, Mex. Cast of The Ahmighito meteorite ("The Tent"), measuring 6 ft. by 7 ft. 6 in., by II ft. 2 in. The orginal brought by Peary from Melville Bay, Greenland, in 1896-7, is in The American Museum of Natural History, N. Y. Geological relief map of Washington and Vicnitv ; Geological relief maps of Leadville Col f. Exhibits of Ethnology **The American Indian Exhibits, constituting by far the most important part of the Museum's Ethnological collec- tions, are displayed in the North Wing (in the aisles sur- rounding the National Picture Gallery), and in the North- west range, the different tribes being arranged mainly as follows : Indians of Alaska, British Columbia, Greenland, etc., in the South Aisle; Indians of the Plains and Rockies, in the West aisle; Pueblo Indians and other tribes of the South- west, Mexico and Central South America, in the Northwest Range. To the visitor entering from the Rotunda, the most con- spicuous objects in the South gallery, are the collection of Totem Poles, and Inside House Posts made by the Haida Indians of the village of Tanu, Queen Charlotte Island. Totem Pole is the popular name for carved poles set! up by Indians of the Northwest Coast of North America. Among the Haida or Queen Charlotte Island Indians, where they attained their highest perfection, there were two varieties: one set up in front of the house midway between the eaves, and bearing the crests or emblems of the owner's clan and that of his wife's; secondly, the inside house posts, set up within j the house, which support the house beam. [ The pair of House Posts immediiately to R. and L. of entranc&f arq of especial interest. Each consists of a thick plank oi giant cedar wood (Thua plicata), carved and painted on the front with a decorative symbolic design representing an imaginary sea-monster called. "Tsemos,"j whiah is thought to move erratically like a drifting tree whose roots are laden with stones. Notice also a 38 ft. Totein pole at extreme S. E. cor., on which the animal carvings (beginning below) are: the| Killer-whale, Chief, Sea-monster, Chief's hat, Eagle and human figurei^ with two toads. The Killer-whale is the owneir's crest and the eaglej and toadsi are the crest of his wife; also a 42 ft. Totem pole at extreinef S. W. cor., the carved figures on which are: a Beaver, WTiale, Deep-sea(jj Grizzly Bear, Cormorant and Eagle. ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 289 The visitor will find it convenient to proceed to the R. and begin with the few cases of Indian exhibits that, for lack of space, have been crowded into the S. end of the E. aisle (which is otherwise devoted to the Asiatic collections). The central exhibits both here and in all the galleries devoted to ethnology, consist largely of representative *Fan-ily Groups, admirably life-like, and scientifically accurate to the minutest detail. The wall exhibits are cases containing collections illus- trative of the life and culture of the different tribes, costumes, household utensils, weapons, pottery, basketry, textiles, etc. The numbers used in the following list are intended m.erely as a guide to the relative position of each exhibit: the cases themselves bear no numbers, but are abundantly supplied with descriptive placards. East Aisle, Central Exhibits: i. Smith Sound Eskimo, called the "Arctic Highlanders," the most northern people in the known world ; the group represents a family as it might appear moving across the ice-tields. (Designed by W. H. Holmes, and modeled by H. J. Ellicott) ; 2. Dwelling Group of the Western Eskimo, Western Alaska, consisting of dome- shaped houses made of earth, piled over a cobwork of timbers; 3. Dwelling Group of Central Eskimos, consisting of a winter house and outbuildings, and another in course of construction; Model of dwelling of Kinugmut Eskimo of Alaska ; 4. Family Group of Western Eskimo, illustrating usual summer occupa- jtions and amusements. East and South Wall Cases (N. to S., beginning opposite 4th Family Group) : Case i. Carvings in slate made by Haida Indians. The material is fine grained and easily worked. The figures represent the mythological characters and stories :hat are shown on Haida Totem Poles. Collection also includes slate pipes, dishes and plaques, stone mortars, pestles and shallow dishes for grinding paint; Case 2. Tribes of South \laska and British Columbia : masks, helmets and headdresses ; Taida Chief's crest with plume ; Bear's head dance mask ; Bird eremonial headdress (Tlinkit) ; Seal clubs; ancient Thunder- Mrd_ club; Slave killer (Haida) ; Case 3. Alaskan Indians onfinued. Carving, inlaying and metal work. Rattles and Vooden pipes ; carved charms, ear pendants and medicine sticks if shell, horn and bone; stone Totemic charms; Case 4. (N. Vail) War costumes and weapons of the Aleuts, Tlinkit, -laida and Chilkat ; plate, slat, rod and skin armour ; helmets, reaves, clubs, bows quivers, etc. ; Case 5. Basketry of 'N. W. oast Indians : Decorated baskets for various ornamental and seful purposes ; Haida ceremonial hat, with mythological ! evices representing Totemic animals. 290 RIDER'S WASHINGTON West Wall Cases (N, to S., beginning opposite 4th Central Case) : i. Tribes of the Nol^th Pacific Coast : costumes, tex- tiles and wood carving; 2. Indian decorative art. collection of decorated wooden masks, painted rug, carved wooden figures; 3. Chests of cedar wood, carved and painted with Totemic designs. The visitor now passes again through entrance vestibule, continuing inspection of cases on S. Wall: i. (E. of door- way) : Alaskan Basketry continued : Baby shoes, mats, baskets and bags, made from Carcx which flourishes abundantly in S. Alaska; 2. (W. of doorway): Costumed figures of Eskimo men and women from Kotzebue Sound, Point Barrow and Labrador. West Aisle: Central Exhibits (S. to N.) : Family Groups : I. Chilkat household, consisting of wood worker, carving a ceremonial mask ; woman weaving a Totemic blanket ; girl serving man in ceremonial costume, etc. Designed by W. H. Holmes; 2. Collection of carved wooden vessels ; 3. Textile work of Tribes of Columbia River Region (Salish) ; male figure wearing woven blanket ; 4. Table Case showing develop- ment of slashing weapons with short hilts : weapons for cut- ting and thrusting ; also hand weapons for stabbing and pierc- ing; 5. Family Group of Loucheux. type of the Yukon- Mackenzie Province ; 6. Iroquois Village Group, Northern New York, representing a stockaded village of "the Iroquois Confederacy during- the Aboriginal Period. Modeled by /. B. Millner; 7. Dwelling Group of Seminole Indians, Florida, Im center is house where cooking is done ; 8. Navaho Indians 9. Dwelling Group of the Papago Indians, Sonora, Mex. ; 10. Dwelling Group of Sioux Indians ; 11. Dwelling Group of the Chippewa Indians, Lake Superior Region; Models of houses of birch bark, mats and rushes; 12, Family Group:' Navaho Indian blanket makers ; one woman spinning and the other weaving; 13. Table Case: Development of the spindlej and shuttle; 14. Table Case: Development of the lamp, from; the crudest stone lamp to the electric bulb ; 15. Family Group ; Zuni women (New Mex.) making pottery; 16. Table -Case: Showing development of the adze and the hammer | 17. Table Case: Showing development of the Fish-hook anc Harpoon Barb; 18. Family Group of the Sioux Indians, typ«!; of the Aborigines of the Great Plains region ; 19. Tabl'j Case: Development of the drill, the scraper, the jack-knif; and the saw ; 20. *HistOTic Group ; Captain John Smith tradiiii'i with the Powhatan Indians. Designed by IV. H. Holmes; 211 Table Case: Showing development of knife, fork, spoon, c\ii\ and tobacco pipe ; 22. Family Group of Cocopa Indians of fai^ ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 291 Southwest, intended as t3'pe of this region: Group includes woman milHng corn in wooden mortar, young man teaching boy the use of how and arrow, returning hunter asking for water, and w-oman winnowing grass-seed. West Wall Cases (N. to S.): i. Burial frame of a Cheyenne child; 2. Model of Sioux woman and child; 3. Sioux Indian warrior, wearing war shirt with bead work, cuH fringe and scalp trophies, plume of eagle feather and necklace of bear's claws. The face is that of Kicking Bear, a Sioux Medicine Man, who was prominent with Sitting Bull in the Ghost Dance craze of 1890. The costume was secured from hinii and a ca?t taken of his face when he visited; Washington in 1902. 4. Georg^ Catlin Collection: Relics of Catlin's Explorations among the Indians, . 1830-71 ; 5. Examples of work in quills and Moose-hair, on moccasins, shirts, leggins, belts, pouches, fringes, necklaces, etc.; 6. Indians of the Northern Plains continued, chiefly Sioux: Woman's painted robe, beaded cradle, svui-dance robe (Blackfeet); Sitting Bull's flintlock; Chief Gall's quiver; Beaded shirt, feather headdre.-s; scalp of Nez Perce; 7. Charms, trophies and examples of objects connected with native religion, which were used principally by western tribes; 8. Osage Indians, Okla.; Sacred bundles used in ceremonies; 9-10. Plains and Rocky Mountains Tribes; Beaded tobaqco poiuches; pipes, flutes, whistles and drums; Ston-head war clubs; bone war clubs with spikes; ceremonial shields and shield-covers, quivers, bows, arrows and toma- hawks: II. James Mooney Collection: Earthenware vessels of Cherokee (N. C.) Indians; Seneca (N. Y.) Indians: Flutes, bark-rattles, etc.; Iroquois (N. Y.) Indians; silver brooch, beadwork pouches, etc.; 12. Tribes of the Northern Woodlands; Collection ofl Rev. Peter Jones, a half-blood Ojibwa Indian, who becayme a Christian missionary. This collection includes a beladed bandolier and headdress worn by Indian delegate to the Co^trt_of George IV and Queen Victtoria; an ancient knob-club, scalping knife, medicine-bone, wampum, etc. In same case are birch bark vessels and other implements of the Ojibwa sugar industry. 13. Tools of the Eskimo; 14. Eskimo work-boxes, tool-iboxes, boxes for lance-heads, snuff, trinkets, etc.; 15. Lamps of the Eskimo; from Labrador and Greenland on E. to Alaska and Aleutian Islands; 16. Dwelling Groups of Digger Indians (type of /Calif ornian Province); 17. Alaskan Collection lent by Mrs. IV. H. Emory; 18. Western Eskimo. Wooden dishes, pails, dippers, ladles and spoons, cut from solid wood; 19. (S. Wall) Eskimo continued: Harpoons and bird tridents, fish spears, throwing sticks and smew-backed bows. ! ^ ^ East Wall Cases (S. to N. This is a continuous case, 'divided only by the structural columns along the E. wall. The numbers refer to alcoves between columns) : I. _ Tribes of Alaska: Costumes of Tinkit and Haida Tribes; j2. Eskimo of S. E. Alaska: Garments, including, a waterproof dress, weapons, paddle, icje-skimmers, lamps, boxes, snow-shoes, and a com- plete skin canoe or kayak: also' model of house showing method of construction; 3. Greenland Eskimo; Costumes of ornamented sealskin, robes of eiderdown, full-size dog-sled, spears and small models of jiative boats; also exhibit of the Labrador Indians, including' fur cos- tume, painted-skin dress, snow-shoes, toboggan sleds and model of louse; 4. Tribes of Northern Canada. Tanned-skin clothing, dishes, lousehold utensils, bows, nets and snow-shoes; Indians of the Eastern aid Southern States; Basket's, household utensils, masks; also figure of ^>eminold man wearing a Chief's cio&tume of today; 5. Chipewa Indians: Floor-mats, beaded tobacco bags, household and agricultural implements; j). Sioux Indians: beaded clothing, robes, dried foods, baskets, sticks 292 RIDER'S WASHINGTON and stones used in chiiiikcy game, stick and balls used in, shinny game, woman's elk-tooth dresis, papoose cradle, stone mallets, war bonnets, bo^'S and spears; 7. Kiowa Indians. Costumes, medicine staffs, sctdp- lock dress ornament, saddles, shields, lances, beaded cradles and reed beds; 8. Arapalio and Cheyenne Indians: Robes, rawhide cases, lance?^ shields, all ornamented with paint, feathers, beads and elk teeth; also buifalo' skulls and horns, war bonnets and war clubs; 9. Tribes of the Rocky Mountains; Utes and other Shoshones: Costumes of an early day, collected by Major J. W. Powell and others. The visitor now turns W. (opposite elevators) into — Northwest Range, North Section. Indians of the South- western United States, Central and South America : Central Exhibition Cases (K. to W.), These exhibits consist mainly of Family Groups alternating with Tabic Cases showing historical development o^f implements, weapons and arts and crafts, i. (E. Wall Case) Basketry of the Fraser-Columbia region; 2. Table Case; Development of the Torch and Candle; 3. Familjir group of Hupa Indians from northern California ; 4. Table Case : Development of Fire Making and Illumination from primitive method of fric- tion to the electric light ; 5. Faimiily group of eight Pueblo Indians, (the Zuni of New Mexico : Man 'bringing home his crap of vegetables and fruit ; woman weaving a belt on her hand loom; young girl carrying a jar oi water on her head; man drilling Turquoise for beads, etc. ; 6. Table Case. De- velopment of European Ax and Aboriginal American Ax ; 7. Faimily group of Hopi Indians from northeastern Arizona ; 8. Taible Case: History of Weaving, including the spindle, shuttle and loom ; 9. *The Snake Dance : an episode in a Hopi Dance for Rain, designed by IV. H. Holmes, and modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar. 10. Table Case: Development of Tools and These Indians celebrate in the month of August, at intervals of j in black, "brown, red and yellow. Mohave, Cocopa and Yuma Tribes; j pose being to beseech the gods for rain for their crops. The culmi- : nation is an open air ceremony in which live snakes are carried, and ; the most striking episode in this dance is presented in this group, which i shows a trio of Snake priests, respectively the "Carrier " tie "Sus- , tainer" and the "Collector," a line of priests of the Antelope Society , who act as chorus, and a maid and matron whose office it is, along j with others, to scatter sacred meal on the participants as a sacrifice io ;\ the gods. Appliances used in Metal Working; 11. The Arrow Makers: Group illustrating the manufacture of stone implements by the American aborigines ; modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar ; 12. Tablei! Case: Reduction in Metal Working; also Methods of Manu- facture, including hammering, casting, overlaying, etc.; I3- Kiowa Group: Indian children at play, showing child life of Plains Indians as illustrated by the wheel and darti. game, whip and tops, and mimic warfare; 14. Table Case:^ ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 293 Toggle harpoons, sinkers, fish-hooks and lines ; 15. Family group of Tehuelche Indians (Patagonian region) breaking camp; 17. Family group of four Maya-Quiche Indians (type of the Central Americani region) ; group designed by IV. H. Holmes, modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar; woman grinding corn on a stone; man carrying corn in a net-bag over his shoulder, etc.; 18. Feather work, basketry and bead work of Indians of British Guiana. 19, (to R.) Model of Mission Church, Zuni Pueblo, New Mexico; Estufa or "Kiva" (Ceremonial room), Jamez Pueblo, New Mexico; 20. Model of the Hopi Pueblo, N. E., Arizona. The mesa in which it is situated is about 500 ft. above the level of the plain, and totally des- titute of vegetation. Modeled by Victor and Cosmos Min- deleff; 21. (N. to S.) a. Dwelling Group of the Tehuelche Indians, t^-pe of the Patagonian Region, b. Dwell- ing Group of the (joajiros Indians, type of the Orinoco Region. 22. Ancient Sun-Shrine, crescentic mass of weather- worn sandstone. From sandy mesa in Arizona ; Cases 23-25 are the southernmost row in the N. W. Pavilion. From E. to W. they contain : 23. Industries of Pima Indians, Ariz. : Loom with cloth in process, doll in cradle, woven belt, hair ornaments and shields; Pima, Papago- and Maricopa Tribes: Bows and arrows, carrying baskets and saddles. 24. Tribes of South America: Textiles, robes, skirts, girdles, hammocks and bags, made fro^m skin, bark, cotton and other vegetable fibre. 25. Tribes of Peru, Central Brazil, Guiana and Argen- tina: Bows and arrows. The visitor may now return to E, end and inspect the exhibits on the northern side. Wall Cases, North Wall (E. to W.) : r. Mohave Indian Chief, Yuman stock, from hot desert region of Southwest Arizona. Modeled by Theodore Mills; 2. Hupa Indians of the Valley of Trinity River, Cal.: Baskets, carved elkhorn spoons, stone knives, pestles, baking dishes, etc.; 3. Costumes, ornaments, ceremonial head-d'resses, etc., of the Hupa, lamath, McCloud, Porno and Tulare Indians of California; 14. Tribes of New Mexico and Arizona. In N. E. Arizona are the 'Hopi Indians, the wesiternmoist of the Pueblo Indians. They pre- serve more fully than other Pueblo tribes the ancient arts and customs. This case contains pottery, matting, spindles, bows and arrows, stone implements, etc.; 5. Seri Indian Hunter, modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar; lalso Birdskin Blanket of Seri Indians, made from'i the California Brown iPelican, Pelkamis CaJifornicus; and a child's garment of Cormorant skins, Phalacrocorax pencillatns. I The Seri Indians occupy Tiburon Island, the Gulf of California. [They wear skirts of pelican skins, and are noted for their large stature, ijslender limbs, and great breadth and depth of chest. j 6. New Mexico and Arizona continued: Zuni Pueblo Indians: Cere- monial Dolls, madei by a Zuni in imitation of the mein who personified the gods in sacred ceremonies; they are used by the mothers in teaching their children the symbolism of the gods; (same cases) Masks of the 294 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Zuni Kok-ko Society, worn by members of the Sacred Dance Fraternity when personating the ancestral god'.-; 7. Ceremonial objects of the Znnis: Feather wands, sword-swallower's wands, sacred bundles, rattles, and sacred games used in various ceremonies; 8. New ilexico and Arizona continued: Zuni Pueblo Indians, living in Western New ^^lexico on one of the head streams of the Little Colorado River: Case contains pottery, basketry, gourd vessels, spindles, etc.; 9. *Relics from Pueblo Indian Missions of New Mexico, antedating those of California: Holy Water Font, carved and painted wooden figures, painting,-; on skins and on wood, crosses and sconces; also paintings on dressed bualo skins. These paintings are a combination of Christian and pagan art, due to the crude ideas pi the^ Indians wlio designed them. Done by Indian converts, under direction of the jNIission Fathers; 10. Tribes of Southern Arizona, the| Pima, Papaga and Maricopa Indians, Lower Gila and Salt Rivers (these tribes have now coalesced and are now practically uniform in culture): Pottery, basketry, brushes, cJubs, drums, flutes, etc.; 11. Woman of Chiapas, Southern Mexico, modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar; 12. Tribes of California, Kawia and Dieguenos Indians, inhabiting the mission area of S. Cal.: Specimens of pottery, basketry, gourd vessels, etc.; 13. Mexican tribes: Yaki, Tarahumare, Cora, and other tribes: woA'en pouches, etc,.; 14. Mexican Tribes continued: Lacquered bowls, machetes, water jars and other article's illustrative of arts derived from aboriginal sources, but which cannot now be traced to any particular tribe; 15. West Indian Islands (Haiti, Porto Rico, San Domingo and Cuba): Baskets, gourds:, guitars, etc.; also Indian tribes of Central America (Panama, Casta Rica and Guatemala): Garments of Kekchi women; mask and dance costume of Talamanca Indians; 16. Talamanca and Guatuso Indians of Costa Rica Inland Forests, and now on the verge of extinction: Bows, arrows, pottery, necklace^ of jaguar teeth. Note the crudity of the art; 17. Upper Amazon River: a. Peru, various tribes •.( Textiles, ornaments, musical instruments; also' Ancient Peruvian Mummy; b. Bolivia: various tribes: Blankets and slings of vicuna wool; niodels of reed boats, c. Brazil, various robes; Bark cloth, wood carv- ing; 18. Tribes of British Guiana (Carib and Arawak) : Fine basketry and well-developed pottery; 19. a. Argentine, various tribes: Textiles, ornaments, pies and ear-plugs; b. Paraguay: Feather cinctures, plvmies, shell and bear ornaments, knit hammocks and bags. West Wall (Same Series continued): 20. Tribes of the Amazon, the Bororo, and other groups: Specimens brought home in 1852 by Herndon and Gibbon, including bows, clubs, spears and arrows; also two' dried headb of Xivaro Indians (skull removed and head shrivelled to one- third natural size); 21. Patagonian tribe'?. Painted robes of horehide, skins and robes lof Guanaco, boots, spurs, bolas, etc.: 22. Paraguay: Gran Chaco Indians (tribes similar in culture to the Plains Indians of North America) : Arrows, bows, clubs, feather headdresses, costumes, etc.; 23. Xivaro Chief, modeled by Theodore A. Mills. Note especially the resplendent costume ornamented with the vivid plumage of South American birds; 24. Tribes of Fuegia, the Alikulof and other groups: Bows, spears, fish-nets of sinew- harpoon-heads, etc. i South Wall. A colonnade here forms an aisle on the S. side, which is divided by transverse cases into a series of alcoves, partly screened from view by the outer row of cases facing the central Family Groups. (E. to W.) Alcove i: Basketry of Middle and South America; the checker and twilled _ work from British Guiana and ancient Peru; ; basketry of California tribes, including the Maidu, Panamint, Washc Tulare and Mission Indians; Tahltan tribe, British Columbia; necklaces, bracelets, belts, beaded bags and fans; leather- working tools, paints i! ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 295 and dyes; Apache Man and Squaw; twined and coiled basketry of Porno Indians. Tribes of Puget Sound Region: mats, nobes, skirts, carrying bands, baskets, clubs, tools and digging sticks. Alcove 2:1 Ella F. Hubby Collection of California Indian Baskets, received in 192 1, and including specimens by the Luiseiios, Channel, Mission, Coahuilla, Piute, Muna, Maidu, Mono and others. Pacfific Coast Tribes: Bows, arrows and quivers from various tribesi of Oregon and California. Costume and adornment of California Tribes. Tribes of Eastern States: Basketry of the Iroquois, Cherokee, Chocktaw and Cheetimacha Indians. Alcove 3: Tribes oif the Pueblo Region: (Arizona and New Mex- ico) : Every-day tools and utensils of the Hopi and Zuni. Leather shields decorated in Pueblo symbolic art; war hats, spears, bows and arrows of Zuni and Upper Rio Grande Pueblos; boomerang-like clubs of the Uopi; bows for war, hunting and cerem;ony. Basketry of the Apache, Pima, Papago, Seri. Pueblo music and games; flutes and rattles; rums made from hollow logs; tops, shuttlecock, and cup-and- ball-and-sticks. Dwelling! Group of Pawnee Indian. Alcove 4: Pueblo Tribes continued. Costumes of cotton and wool, moccasins, belts and blankets. Navaho-, New Mexico^ and Arizona weaving; Blankets, belts and looms. Basketry of various Pacific Coast tribes. Ceremoniai dolls of the Hopi Indians, carved from the root of the co'tonwood tree. Hopi and Zmii ceremonial headdresses of carved and painted wood; masks of leather, cloth and basketry; ceremonial shields, etc. Metal work of the Navaho Indians. Alcove 5: Zuni decorated pottery: The ware is made by coiling ropes of clay and pressing them together; the surface is covered with a wash of white clay, and designs in iron ore colors ar^ painted on, and the ware fired in a primitive kiln. All the designs are symbolic. Hopi weaving and embroidery: Ceremonial sash; man's sacred sash; man's sacred kilt; ceremonial blanket; Bride's blanket (pure white); looms for weaving belts, sashes and blankets; spindle with yarn, weft combs, weaving sticks, etc. Hopi pottery: The middle row shows Nampeo's revival of ancient forms and designs; examples of ancient Hopi vases i from ruined Pueblos. Dwelling Group of Jarnamadi Indians (West Brazil). Dwelling Group of Navaho. Alcove 6: Acoma and Sia Pueblos. N. M.: Acoma decorated pottery ' in black, brcnvn, red and yellow. Mohave, Cocopa and Yuma Tribes; 1 Yuma ceremonial headdresises; willow work, war club, cradle frame, I pottery bowls,, basketry, etc. Model of Altar of Little Fire Fraternity, Zuni Indians, New Mexico: Ancient Shrine of Awatobi, Moki Reservation discovered by Don Pedro de Tabor in 1340. In 1700 warriors from other Hopi pueblos, believing that the Awatobis had become sorcerers on i account of their cordial reception of the padres of the Franciscan Mission, pillaged this pueblo and massacred the inhabitants. This shrine , was found in the middle of the river where the warriors were congre- gated on the fatal night. The Apache, Arizona: Weapons of war, costumes, leather work and basketry. Collections of offerings at various Indian Shrines. Decorated pottery from Rio Grande Pueblo. Dwelling Group of the Carib Indians, British Guiana. ( Alcove 7: Rio Grand Pueblo pottery: A black, burnished type, ,made chiefly at Santa Clara Pueblo. Navaho Blankets: also saddle blan- kets, dress, pueblo sash, and models of looms., Pueblo of Taos, N. M. (one of the Rio Grande group of Pueblos), modeled by W. H. Jackson. Collection from Mexico (made by Harry S. Bryan): Crucifixes, bead .work, embroidery, etc. Model of a oki Altar. Alcove 8: Tribes of Panama: Costumes, basketry, tools, toys, masks, etc. Tribes of Mexico: Objects used in manufacture of Pulque. Mescal and Palm-wine by Mexican Indians; also specimens of plants from which these drinks are made; specimens of cord making and weaving. 296 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Model of the Pueblo of Oraibi ("Place on the Rock"), the largest of the Hopi Pueblos, 99 miles N. E. of Flagstaff, Arizona. Modeled by Victor and Cosmos Mindeleff. Life forms in pottery (of Pueblo Region), figurines of birds, including owls, ducks, etc. On S. wall, and continuing VV. to end of wall, is a portion of the W. E. Safford Collec- tion of Indian portraits, mainly from Peruvian Tribes: Cashivo Girl, Napo Indian, Fuegian Man, etc. North Wing: East Aisle. Ethnology, continued: Europe Asia and Africa. Central Cases (S. to N.), beginning opposite the second window N. of Eskimo Group (p. 291) : i. Alodel of the Wat Chang or "Great Monastery Pagoda," the finest edifice of Bangkok, Siam, gift of Marquis Visuddha, Siamese Minister to England; 2. Parsee ceremonial objects, including fire urn, used to hold sacred fire, religious costume, suit of Parsee school girl; also model of Parsee Tower of Silence or Dakhma; 3. Chinese porcelains and furniture collected on the Perry Ex- pedition of 1853. 4. Table case containing Shinto charms ; 5. The Tninor arts of India, metal work, wood work, lacquer, etc.: Examples of furniture, hangings, jewelry, domestic utensils and figurines. 6. The George Keenan (Collection (loaned) of Central Asian and other Weapons, consisting of scimitars, broad-swords, daggers, pistols, guns, etc., of gold, silver, steel and ivory, also duelling pistols, guns and swords of artistic and historic interest, including African weapons secured during the Stanley Expedition. 7. and 8. Cases containing lacquer boxes, bottles and other objects of Chinese art; 9. Col- lection of equipments of war of the Japanese Feudal period. Collected by Theodore Roosevelt, Albert Beveredge, Horace Capron and others. It includes specimens of spears, saddles, helmets, stirrups and two life-size figures in armor; 10. Pujah set, or ceremonial vessels used in Hindu family worship; 11. Dwelling Group of the Aino, the aboriginal inhabitants of Yezo, Japan; 12. Objects of Buddhist religious art, including bronze seated statues of Buddha, etc. Case containing exam- ples of Oiinese art in porcelain, ivory, jade, pewter, etc.; I3- I Social life and arts of the Siamese Empire, including objects ' conneced with the Palace of the King and Royal Family; also weapons and theatrical masks ,and models of Siamese boats; ; 14. Group of six Japanese warriors representing a Japanese \ General receiving tidings of a disaster from an escaped prisoner. \ The armor, spears, etc., are the kind used 400 years ago. Made I and costumed in Japan; 15, Ancient costume of Japan; twOij; life-sized figures, man and woman, showing the beautiful ': fabrics of ancien ttmes ; 16, Japanese lady and maid-servant j! costumed in style formery in vogue; 17. Objects of Hebrew! ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 297 religious worship : prayer shawls ; old English Sabbath lamp made for ten wicks, with oil dipper beneath. East Aisle, continued. West Wall Cases (N. to S.): i. European Folk Art: Costumes, jewelry, pottery, etc., from Rumania, Bulgaria, Greece, Servia, Spain, Sweden, Finland and Iceland; 2. Ghadames girl (Hamitic Family), life-size figure of 12-year old girl, Bertjer race; 3. Peoples of North Africa: Moorish Art. Specimens of weaving, embroidery and metal work employed in rugs, hangings, saddles and costumes. The saddles were presented by Theodore Rqosevelt and Talcott Williams; 4. Siam. Articles presented by the King of Siam in 1876, including Sarongs or men's waist dress, baskets, matting, drums, lacquer and brass work; 5. Peoples of the Chinese Empire: Articles illustrating the social life "of Tibetans and Mongols; also/ life-size figures of Mongol and Tibetan men, modeled by Theodore A. Mills; 6. Chinese Empire, continued : Chinese Imperial robes^ made at the royal looms at Mukden and . woven by members of the Imperial family; 7. Peoples of the Japanese Empire: The Koreans. Dress- worn by men, women and children, hats, belts, screens, cabinets, cooking utensils of soapstone; also life-size figure representing Korean gentleman in street costume. 8-9. Japanese Empire, continued. Robes of silk worn at Court ceremonies; Buddhist shrine; lacquer boxes, buckets, candlesticks and other domestic utensils; two life-size figures in native costumes; 10. The Ainos of Yeso: Specimens of their chief industries, weaving and wood-carving. The remaining exhibits S. of this point have already been described under "Indians of the North Pacific Coast'' (p. 290). East Wall Cases (S. to N.) : beginning beyond second window, next to Eskimo exhibit (p. 291). The collections in these cases illustrate mainly the principal Religions of Asia and Europe: i. Buddhism : Collection of images of Buddha and various articles connected with Buddhist ceremonials. 2. Statue of Teak wood, lacquered (6 ft. 5 in. in height); 3. S. S. Hoivland Collection of Buddhist Art. Buddha Sitting in Meditation (bronze) ; Buddha passing into Nirvana (Alabaster gilded and encrusted with precious stones) ; Chinese Gods of War and ot Peace (gilded wood) ; Buddhist Shrine, representing Buddha seated on a lotus and surrounded by 14 other figures representing gods, saints and temporal guards; 4. Shintaism, the national and ofificial religion ot Japan; Shinto Shrines of various kinds; Mikoshii or portable Shrine; household shrines; Shrine of Inari or Fox Goddess; temple masks, straw chaplets, etc.: Brahmanism : Images of Brahma, Vishnu, Siva. Lakshmi, Devi, etc.; the ten Incarnations of Vishnu; 5. Mohammedanism: Aralolc ma»nu9cript of the Koran in black, red and gold on vellunt; prayer rug, wooden model of a mosque; mosque tablets from Constantinople. 6. Costume of Dancing Dervish and of Persian Priest. 7. Tuscany: Costume of the Misericordia, a charitable secret order in Florence. 8. The Eastern or Greek Church: Bcclesliastical vestment of Ru=sian I priest; Pastoral staff of Greek Catholic Bishop; Russian Icons; Armenian I natriarch's staff, from Constantinople. 9. Costumes of Greek Catholic I '^Tonk and Armenian priest; alsO' habits of Dominican,, Benedictine and Cc.puchin monks. 10. The Roman Catholic Church; priests' vestments; I Catholic Altar from Roman Churchj at Hildesheim; Chalice, Paten, etc. I 11-15. Judaism: Five-armed candlestick: Hanukah lamp used at Feast of the Dedication; Veil of the Holv Ark; Micrah or panel of embroidered j silk with figures of Abraham and Isaac. North East Range: Ethnology, continued: Central Cases (W. to E.) : i. (W.Wall Case) Tribes I of the Philippines; Head-gear from various localities, made h from straw, tortoise shell, fur and embroidery; 2. Family ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 299 Group of the 'Samoan Islands. - Six figures represent :_ bark cloth with crude stenciling, etc.; 3. Family Group of Dyaks Borneo', on porch of communal house ; 4. Family Group of Filipinos. The group represents the several processes con- nected with the making of coth, the ginning of cotton, spin- ning with primitive wheel, and the weaving of the cloth ; 5. Philippine Islands: Moro mental work, betel boxes, lime cups, trays, bowls and other appliances connected with the use of the narcotc betel ; 6. Family Group of the Bontac Igorets (Phillipine Islands), five figures all engaged in domestic occu- pations; 7. Family Group of the Negritos (Philippine Islands), showing their primitive method of making fire, pounding rice and cooking; 8. British East Africa; The Chagga: vessels of wood, iron implements, beaded leather aprons, oirnaments of brass, horn arrd ivo^ry ; 9. Tribes of British and Po'rtuguese South African; Zulu and Kaffirs: wooden drums, pottery, pipes, battle axes, ornaments; 10. Congo Free State; the Kassai and other tribes basketry, knives, paddles, pipes, etc. ; II. Congo Free State, continued: drums, masks, figurnes, carved ivory, ceremona knives and axes ; 12. Zulu-Kaffir Group, showing section of house : woman cooking mush, another ladling out beer, another carrying water, and man playng the marimba. South Wall: As in the case of the Northwest Range, the S. side has an aisle divided from the main hall by a row of columns, and the cases containing exhibits are arranged in groups forming a series of alcoves. Alcove i: Tribes of the Pacific: War spears, daggers, shark- teeth swords, armour of knotted cocoanut fibre; Tribes of British India: Nicobar Islanders: baskets, cocoanut vessels, wooden carvings, bowls, dishes, etc.; Tribes ,of Africa: The Sudanese; e^camples of the finest leather work found among uncivilized peoples — pouches, knife cases, etc.; The Abyssinians: amulets, bracelets, baskets, shields, weapons, etc.; Andaman Islanders : spears, bows and arrows, necklaces, bracelets, nets, baskets and belts; Tribes of Papua: War spears, showing extraordinary ingenuity in manufacture; Model of Papuan man, by Theodore Mills; Model of Bulu man, by Henry J. EUicott. Alcove 2: Tribes of the Pacific, continued : War clubs of Samoa, Tonga and Fiji, made chiefly of Polynesian ironwood; Tribes of Liberia, W. Africa: The Mandingoes; examples of the excellent textile work. Model of Wolof man (W. Sundan); Social and domestic arts of the Congo Tribes; The Pacific Islanders: The Tapa Makers Art; tapa board andi log, grooved mallet and marking pens; also specimens of tapa cloth; Arts of New Guinea Tribes, including carved wooden utensils and ornaments, baskets with the intricate "mad weave," canoe prow ornaments, etc.; Model of Wachaga man (German E. Africa), Alcove 3. Tribes of Polynesia and Melanesia: Costumes, tools and utensils; fans and personal ornaments, mostly from Fiji Islands; Costumes, Jewelry and decorative art, chiefly from New Guinea; also wood carving from the Solomon Islands; The Wood Carvers' 300 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Art, including ceremonial adzes, clubs, paddles and stilts decorated in the style of tapa cloth. Social life of the Hawaiians; Note especially paraphernalia of the Hula dance; Stone money of Yap. Alcove 4. The Engano Islands: Girdles and bead skirts, baskets and hats; The W. L. Abbott Collection from Southern Malaysia: Household Gods, shrine images and other religious objects; Samoan plaited mat robes; textiles of New Zealanders; Tribes of the Eastern Pacific: War and ceremonial clubs; Social and domestic arts of the Nias Islanders; Mis- cellaneous collection of utensilsi and ornaments from Solomon, Marshall and Caroline Islands. Alcove 5. The Dyaks of Borneo: Costumes, kilts, sarongs and girdles; household utensils, wedding mat; Dyak musical instruments: Dr. IV. L. Abbott Collection: Hawaiian feather work: Feather cape made of rare bird feathers (vivid reds and yellows) woven with hemp background; Lais, or feather hair ornament; also ceremonial feather staff: Arts of the Easter Islands. Headdresses of feathers, staffs paddles and stone implements; Dyak spears, blowguns and shields; Dyak basketry; Native Arts and Industries of Southeast Africa; sandals, war horns, swords, carved ivory, etc. Alcove 6. Tribes of the Philippines: Offensive and defensive weapons of Mindanao; General F. D. Grant: Collection from Samar Island (Philippines) : Cutting weapons of various types, arrows for war and hunting palmwood bows, scourges for punishing prisoners; Tribes of East Indies: Weapons of the Nias, Engano, Pagi and Simalur Islands; note especially Shelter shields from Engano Islands; Philippine textiles from various localities: Igorot blankets; Moro print; Palm spathe texture; Buri palm cloth; also Arts of the Bagobo Tribe of Southern Mindanao: Beaded hemp jacket, woman's beaded belt; bolo with beaded sheath; spears and ornaments; Basketry of Luzon, ^Mindanao, and other Phil- ippine Islands; Dwelling Group, showing Zulu village. Alcove 7. Philippines, continued: Pottery of the Tagals and other groups ol Luzon; Land and water transportation; models of sleds and carts, canoes, freight and passenger boats; Tools and utensils of New Guinea; also Dwelling Group of the Dyaks; Village Group of the Early Hawaiians; Basketry of the African Tribes: note the fine checker weaving confined to Madagascar, where it was introduced by Malay colonists at an early period; Basketry of Oceanic Peoples: Dwelling Group of Samoans (Polynesians) of the highest type) ; houses of elaborate frame- work tied together with cocoa fibre and thatched with palm leaves. North Wall Cases (W. to E.) : Model of Dyak man, b}^ Theodore Mills; 2. Moros of Mindanao, a Mohammedan tribes, excelling in brass and iron work, weaving- and house building. Case contains armor helmets, shields, swords, lamps and bowls ; also inlaid Kris, Datto's mantle, Datto's Biiyo set, etc.; 3. Social Life of the Igorot (living in the mountains of Luzon and in grade of culture half-way between the Negrito and civilized tribes) : Case contains model of Igorot house and granery; domestic utensils, baskets for carrying ore, and storing food; fire-pistol for lighting fire, weapons and shields, traps and nooses for game, 4. Dyaks of Borneo: Drums, grinding dishes, cocoanut shredders, rice sieve, water gourds, quivers for blowgun darts, betel boxes (W. L. Abbott CoUecton). 5. Maiori Man (New Zealand), modeled by Henry /. Ellicotf. 6. The Fijians, noted for skill in work- ing wood: Case contains carved dishes, forks, spatulas, etc.; ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 301 also pottery of various shapes, glazed with resin. 7. Arfs of the Sajnoans : Fine mats, fans, and baskets ; tapa cloth with fish designs, tapa skirt, cocoa cups and Kava bowls. The Samoans are skilled in making mats, baskets and fans from the pandanus and palm-leaf; their mats are of exquisite fineness, trimmed with red parrot feathers, and are valued as heirlooms ; baskets woven in checker designs of black and natural colors. The exhibits include a Kava bowl presented to President Cleveland b}' Malietoa, King of Samoa. 8. Tlie Hazvaiians: Excellent examples of stonework, including poi pounders, adze blades, net weights, lamps, divination stones, etc.; 9. Arts of the Fijians: {Collection of Wilkes Exploring Expedtion of 1838-42). 10. The Papuans: Characteristic material culture rich in objects pertaining to a low-grade of social life, spears, shields and daggers of bone and of obsidian, bone spatulas, nose-flutes, baskets and fetiches. 11. Models of a Somali Alan (E. Africa) and a Bambara an (Sudanese), from the Trocadero Museum, Paris, modeled by M. Herbert. 12. Tribes of Oceania: Specimois t.vpical of the Oceanic cul- ture, in which the knowledge of iron Is lacking. Tribes of Australia (among the most primitive of mankind) : Spear throwers, iDoomerangs, clubs, stone axes, ornamented fur ro'bes, message stick, pair of shoes believed tO' render the wearer invisible; also Austrian Man modeled by Theodore A. Mills. 14. Africa. Collection of George W. Ellis, Jr.: In- cludes baskets, musical instruments, beaded aprons, wooden spoons, leather work, words and scabbards (from Vai, Gola, Mandingo, etc., in Liberia). The Herbert Ward African Collection, the gift of the sculptor's widow, Mrs. Sarita San ford Ward, now occupies the Northeast corner of the main floor of the Museum, which has been railed off from the rest of the Northeast Range, forming a separate pavilion. It comprises some 2600 objects of native industry, illustrative of the Ethnology of primitive Africa, together with the bronze statues representing Herbert j Ward's life work as a sculptor. The collection was installed i under the personal supervision of Mrs. Ward, and opened to the public March i. 1922. Herbert Ward was born in England in 1863. At the age of 15 be I set out on travels which took him through many unexplored lands. At j 21 he began his ■«'ork in Africa. While in the Congo, im the employ I of the Belgian Government, he rendered important aid to Stanley in ^ his _ explorations. iF'or more than 5 years Mr. Ward lived among the natives of Central Africa, during which time he conceived the idea of preserving an epitome of the primitive native life as an index to the primitive life ofl all men. The records which he made on the spot were the basis of his subsequent famous sculptures. Mr. Ward's desire 302 RIDER'S WASHINGTON tliat his collections should be given to the Smithsonian was due partly to the fact that the founder of the Institution was also an Englishman and a wanderer like himself, but more especially because he realized that the largest body of the negro race that has attained civilization was here in America. The Ethnological Collection is arranged partly in a series of cases extending around three sides of the paviHon, and partly in huge groups upon the walls above the cases, in which countless strange and fantastic knives, spears and javelins form vast metallic sunbursts. The cases, beginning at the N. Wall and proceeding from W. to E., contain the following exhibits : I. Instruments of music, notably great war horns, worked from elephants' tusks, reduced by scraping to the thickness of a gourd; drums of wood, xylophones with gourd resona- tors, and having from 12 to 15 tongues, rattles, bells of wood and O'f iron, and rude harps. 2. Works in iron, clay and other substances; a variety of ivory objects ranging from fetches to oirnaments, bracelets and carved pipes. 3. Natural History Collection : An articulated skeleton of a gorilla, skulls of monkeys; teeth, horns and tusks of various mammals. 4. Native fetiches and wood carvings ; stools, head-rests and domestic utensils. Above on wall gigantic head of a bull elephant. 5. Knives and other small weapons ; poisoned arrows of the African Dwarf Tribes. 6. Costumes and adornments : textiles native to the ' Congo, the tie-and-dye fabrics and tufted fabrics ; primitive loom for raffia cloth ; basketry and neck ornaments. 7. Swords and large cutting weapons : the variation from the primitive leaf form of blades indicates the talent of tihe smaths who forged with rude imple- ments. The ^Collection of Bronzes. The more important sculptures occupy the central space of the pavilion. The visitor approaching from W. notes first, on L., The Fugitives (a mother, baby and small child fleeing from slave hunters). On R. The Charm Doctor (representing a sorcerer perform- ing an incantation). Further R. is *A' Congo Artist (this figure tracing a picture on the sand typifies the rude beginning of art). In center of pavilion is *The Chief of the Tribe (symbolic of the weight of primitive government). Near E. Wall, from L. to R., are : The Idol Alaker (native carving a wooden fetish) ; Defiance ; The Fire Maker ; *Distress (Mr. Ward's last work and in the opinion of critics his great- est) ; The Forest Lovers (exhibited in Paris under title "Les Bantus," the Bantu stock having furnished most of the slaves brought to America). Behind The Charm Doctor is The ZOOLOGICAL EXHIBITS 303 Wood Carrier (modeled from a Senegal girl). Along the wall between the cases are some smaller sculptures : Head of Gorilla (only attempt at animal sculpture); Congo Boy; Sleeping Africa; Fragment (headless, armless female figure) ; Head of Bakongo Girl; Head of Aruimi Man (type of Congo cannibal), Mr. Ward's first work; Crouching Woman. At N. W. cor. of pavilion is a portrait bust of Herbert Ward, by Sir William Goscomhe John. g. Zoological Exhibits Main Floor — Continued: West Wing and Range: Zo- ology: Mammals and Birds. Central Hall, Mammals of North America: The spec- cial features of this collection are some admirable Habitat Groups, and unusually complete exhibits of species and sub- species of certain families, especially among the smaller fur-bearing mammals of commercial value. The central cases (the larger single, the smaller in pairs) are, from E. to W., as follows: 2. (R.) Sea Otter, Latax lutris (Linn.) ;■ 3. (L.) Mink, Marten, Weasel, Ferret, Fisher, etc., 20 species ; 4. Paci- fic Walrus, Odobenus divergens (IlUg.) ; 5. North American Eared Seals, or Sea-bears (Fam. Otariidae) : Alaskan Fur Seal, Callotaria alascanns {Jordan and Clark) ; California Sea-!lion, ZaJophus calif ornianus (I^esson) ; *St€llar's Sea- lion. Eumetopias stelleri (Lesson) : 6. *Habitat Group : American Bison, collected and mounted by William T. Horna- day in 1886-87. Note typical alkaline water-hole of Great Northern Range; also vegetation including the low Buffalo Grass, Bouteloua; Broom Sage, Andropogon, and Prickly Pear, Opiintia; 7. *Haibitat Group : Wapiti or "Elk," Cervus canadensis (Erxleben), Snow scene: the specimens are from the Yellowstone National Park; 8. *Habitat Group. Eastern Moose, Alces americamis {Jar dine) ; Cases 9. (R.) and 10. (L.) Fam. Sciiiridae, Squirrels and Chipmunks (55 varieties) ; Cases II. (R.) and 12 (L.), Fam. Leporidae, or Hares and Fam. Ochotonidae, or Pikas (22 species) ; 13. (R) Pocket Gophers, Kangaroo Rats, Prairie Dogs, Woodchuck, etc. (32 speciefs) ; 14. (L.) Fam. Muridac, 'Rlats, Mice, Lemmings, Musk- rats, etc. (35 species) ; 15. (R.) Fam. Hystricidae or Porcu- j:>ines ; Fam. Castoridae or Beavers ; Fam. Aplodontiidae or Se- wcllels; 16. (L.) Fam. Talpidae or Moles (7 species) ; Fam. Soricidae or Shrews (9 species) ; Fam. Vcspertilionidae or Bats (9 species); 17. South American Mammals: Vicunya, Lama vicugna {Molina) ; Savanna Deer, Odoco ileus gymnotis 304 RIDER'S WASHINGTON (Weigmann) ; also 14 species of S. Amer. Monkeys and 2 Sloths. Wall Cases. A tour of these may now conveniently be made, beginning on the north wall, W. end, and proceed- ing eastward: i. Mammals of the Nearctic Region: Musk- ox, Oinbos moschatus {Zhnmcnnann) ; Alaskan White Sheep, Ovis dalli (Nelson) ; White-lipped peccary, Tayassu pecari (Fischer)^ etc.; 2. Habitat Group: Prong-hoTn. Anti- locapra umericana (Ord), seven specimens; 3. Habitat Group : Texan Nine-banded Armadillo, Dasypus novemcinc- tiis (Linn.); 4. Habitat Group: Rocky Mountain Sheep or Bighorn, Ot/is canadensis (Shazv) ; 5. Habitat Group; American Badger, Taxidea iaxns {Schreber) ; 6. Habitat Group: Musk-oyi, Ovihos moschatus {Zimmermann) ; 7. *North American iSeals and Manatees : a. Florida Manatee, Triehe- chus latirostris {Harlan); h. Harp Seal. Phoca groenlandica {Erxlehen) ; c. Harbor Seal, Phoca vituUna (Linn.) ; d. Rib- bon Seal, Phoca fasciata (Zimmcrmann) ; e. Ringed Seal, Phoca hispida (Schreber) f. Bearded Seal, Erignathus har- batus (Erxleben) ; g. Caribbean 'Seal, Monachus tropicalis (Gray) ; h. California Elephant Seal, Mirounga angustirostris (Gill); i. Hooded Seal, Cystophora cristata (Erxleben). Wall Cases continued. East Wall : i. North American Cats, Skunks, Raccoon and their Allies : 2. North America Wild Dogs, Foxes and Wolves. South Wall: i. Habitat Group: Prairie Wolf, Coyote; male, female and young, designed by William T. Hornaday ; 2. North American Bears : a. Polar Bear, Thalarctos maritmus (Phipps) ; b. Kodiak Bear, Ursus middendorfi (Mcrfiam) ; c. Grizzly Bear, Ursus horribilis (Ord) ; d. Barren Ground Bear, Ursus richardsoni ( Swains on) ; Black Bear, U. amcricanus (Pallas) ; *Glacier Bear, U. emmonsi (Dall), a rare species; 3. Habitat Group: Barren Ground Caribou, Rangifer granti (Allen); 4. Habitat Group: Prairie Dogs, designed by William T. Hornaday; 5. Habi- tat Group: Rocky Mountain Goat, Oreamnos amcricanus (Blainville), collected and presented by George Bird Grinnell; 6. Habitat Group : Virginia Opossum, Didelphis virginiana (Kerr), designed by William T. Hornaday; 7. Habitat Group : Newfoundland Caribou, Rangifer terraenovae (Bangs); 8. Mammals of the Nearctic Region: a. Moun- tain Caribou, Rangifer montanus (Scion Thompson) ; b. Alaskan Moose, Alces gigas (Miller) ; c. Sonoran Deer, Odocoileus couesl (Cones and Yarrozv) ; d. Olympic Elk, Cer- vus roosevelti (Merriam). ZOOLOGICAL EXHIBITS 305 West Wall: Central and South American Mammals: I. Fam. Felidae: Mexican Jaguar, Felis hernandesii {Gray) ; Mitis Cat, Felis mitts (Cuvier) ; Ocelot, F. pardalis (Gray) ; Paraguay Jaguar, F. paraguensis (Hollistcr) ; Puma, F. con- color (Linn.); Jaguarondi, F. jaguarondi (Fischer); Wea- sels, Otters, Kinkajous, etc.; 2. S. Amer. Mammals continued: Caipybara^ Hydrochaerus (Erxleben) ; Coypu, Myocastor coy- pus (Molina); Venezuela Rice-rat, Orysomys flavicans (Thomas); Giant Armadillo, Priodontes gigas. (Cuvier). West Wing, continued: North Aisle, Chiefly European Mammals and Birds : i. *Habitat Group, Polar Bears, col- lected in Barents Sea, by party on board the S. S. Frithjof, Second Relief Ship to the Ziegler Polar Expedition; 2. Kashmir iStag, Cervus cashmerianus (Falconer) ; European Red Deer, Cervus elaphus (Linn.) ; Norway Elk, Alces alces (Linn.) ; Musk Deer, Moschus moschiferus (Linn.) ; Roe Deer, Capreolus capreoluis (Linn.) ; Pere David Deer, Elaphurus davidianus (Milne-Edwards), from China, but 5xtinct in wild state; Fallow Deer, Dama dama (Linn.); 3. European Bison, Bison bonasus (Linn.) ; Chamois, Dorcas pazelle, etc. ; Takin,, Budorcas taxicolor (Hodgson) ; faftanese Serow, Nemorrhacdus crispus (Temminck) ; Thar. \lpine Ibex, etc. ; 4. Pamir Sheep, Kamschatka Sheep, Great Thibetan Sheep or Argali, European Mouflon or Wild 'Sheep, Vlarkhor, African Sheep, Aru, Urial or Sha and Chinese Wild ' The cases W. of this point contain birds, which had best le taken in later, in connection wnth the W. Range. Re- timing E. to starting point, we pass on S. Wall three cases: Case I. European Badger, Japanese Badger, Japanese Otter, '^^^ashmir Fox, Genet, Mongoose, etc. ; Case 2. Weasels, Mar- ens, Moles, Shrews, Polecats, Hedgehogs and Syrian Coney ; kase 3. Various kinds of European Dormice, Squirrels, Red iarmot, Jerboa, Rabbits, Hares, Lemmings, Hamsters and foles. Note especially the exhibit of rats w^hich carry the bubonic Plague. nj The visitor may now cross through the Central Hall to ■flhe E. end of the South Aisle, containing chiefly South Asiatic \lamviah: i. *Habitat Group : Or?ing-ni?ir\. Pongo pygmaeus ^Hopphis) ; represents a fight between two old males and con- squent alarm of females and young; mounted by William T. ifornaday; 2. Habitat Group: Proboscis Monkey, Nasalis \\irvatus (IVurmb), mounted by C. F. Adams: 3. Habitat r[roup: Gibbon. Hylobafes Icuciscus (Miiller and Schlegel), lounted by C. E. Adams; 4. Collection of Asiatic Monkeys, 3o6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 14 species; Indian Tapir, Long-nosed Boar, Babirussa, Black Buck, etc.; 5. Zebu, Bos iiidicus (Linn.) ; Yak, Poephagus grun- niens (Linn.) ; 6. Sambar, Rusa unicolor {Kerr), largest deer in India; Bornean Barking Deer, Axis Deer, Indian Muntjac. etc. ; Asiatic Carnivora : Tiger, Marbled Cat, Leopard, Bintu- iTong, Banded Civet, etc.; 7. Dugong, Halicore dugong {Erx- lebcn), gift of Linnean Society of New South Wales; also Panda, Ailurus fulgens (F. Ciivier) ; fcadgcrs, bats, shrews, etc.; Australian Mammals; Kangaroos, 12 species, ranging from the Great Gray Kangaroo, Macropus giganteus to the Common Rat Kangaroo, Potorous tridactylus ; 8. South [Pacific, Australia and Nezv Guinea; Dingo Dog, Flying Phalanger, Common Wombat, Sea Elephant, etc.; African Mammals: Wild Hog of Africa; Gorilla and other African Apes; African Monkeys, 14 species: 10. African Monkeys continued; 15 species; Hyaenas and Jackals; 11. Carnivora of Africa; Lion, Leopard, Chetah, etc. ; African Antelopes, North Wall Cases: (W. to E.) i. Mammals of the Oriental Region: Monkeys, 5 exhibits; 2. Squirrels, 5 exhibits ; 3. Bats, Flying Squirrels, Porcupines, Crateromys, Rats and Mice, 21 exhibits; 4, Mammals of Australia and Tasmania; Common Echidna, Tachyglossus acideatus\ (Shazc) ; Duckbill, Ornithorhynchus anatinus (Shaw) ; Tas- manian Marsupial Wolf, Thylacynus cynocephalus (Harris) : Dasyures, Anteaters. Tasmanian Devil, Sarcophilus ursinus (Harris) ; 5. Ethiopian Region Temminck's Pangolin. Manis femminckii (Stnuts), Aard Vark, Orycteropus capensis (Gmelin), etc.; 6. Ethiopian Region continued: Numerous species of Mouse, Dormouse, Squirrel, Cape Jumping Hare, etc. ; 7. Ethiopian Region concluded : Shrew, Ichneumon,| Mongoose, Ratel, Falanaka, etc. t Southwest Pavilion: Zoology continued: Mammal^ of Africa. This collection includes important exhibits se i' cured by the Smithsonian African Expedition under CoU Theodore Roosevelt. ji Case I. (S. W. cor., opposite S. Aisle) : *Habitat Group! three adult lions and two cubs, drinking from water-holtin dug by Zebras (Roosevelt Expedition, British West Africa) \ mounted by George B. Turner; Case 2. African Antelopej' (partly Roosevelt Expedition, partly gift of Dr. W. L. Abj. bctt and others). Bush Duiker, Cephalophus grimmia (Shaw) Maxwell's Duiker, Cephalophus maxzvelli (H. Smith); Black j crowned antelope C nigrifrons (Gray); Sassaby, Damaliscm ZOOLOGICAL EXHIBITS 307 lunatus (Burchell) ; Topi, DamaUscus jimcla (MatscJiie) ; Wildebeest, Conrwchaetes gnu (Ziniui.) ; Brindled Gnu, Conno- chactcs iaurina {Burchell) ; Bontebok, D. pygargiis {Pallas) ', Coke's Hartebeest, Alcelaphus cokci {Giinther) ; Case 3- Equine Antelope, Hippotragus cquinus {Geoffroy) ; Sable An- telope, Hippotragus niger {Harris) ; Case 4. (West Wall) Habitat Group : Horsetailed Monkey, Colobiis caudatus {Thomas), group of five collected by Dr. W. L. Abbott in juni- per forests at base of Mt. Kilimanjaro; Case 5. (Central Ex- hibit) Habitat Group: Coke's Hartebeest (Roosevelt Expedi- tion) ; mounted by James L. Clark; Case 6. *Habitat Group: Square-lipped Rhinoceros, Ceratothcrium simiim cottoni {Ly- dekkcr) ; also Rhinoceros bird, Buphagus erythrorhynchus, the inseparable companion of the rhinoceros (Roosevelt Exped.) ; mounted by James L. Clark; Case 7. (East W^all) Antelopes: Defassa W^aterbuck, Kobus deifassa nzoiae {Matschie) ; Water- buck, Kobus cllipsiprymnus {Ogilby) ; Masailand Klipspring- er, Oreotragus oreotragus schillingsi {Neumann) ; Nile Lech- wii, Onoiragus megaceros {Fitzinger) ; Kirk's Pigmy Antelope, Madoqiia kirkii {Giinther) ; Cape Oribi, Ourebia ourebi \{Zimm.) ; Case 8. (E. Wall continued) Antelopes: Gerenuk, Lithocranius zvallefi {Brooke), Thompson's Gazelle, Gaaella 'hompsoni {Giinther); Grant's Gazelle, Gaaella granti ^Brooke) ; Pallali Antelope, Aepyceros melampus {Lichten- }tein) \ Pencil-eared Gemsbok, Oryx callotis {Thomas); Case 9. (Center Exhibit) ^Habitat Group: East x\frican jBuflfalo, Synceras caffer radcliffei {Thomas), accompanied oy the Cow-beron, Bubnlcus hicidus, that feeds upon grasshoppers, etc., aroused by the passing of the Buffalo (Rodsevelt Exipiedition) ; mounted by G. B. Turner; Tase 10. Two-Horned RJiinooeros, Rhinoceros bicornis [Linn.)', West African Buffalo; African Elephant. "Mungo," ?ift of Adam Forepaugh'; Case 11. Burchell's Zebra, Equus \urchelli {Gray) ; Case 12. (Gentral Case Exhibit) Habitat Jroup: Three Grevy's Zebras, Equus grevyi {Oustalet) and Ijwo East African Beisa, Oryx annectens {Ilollister) ; Case HZ- (W. Wall) Equine Antelope, Hippotragus equinus {Geof- \roy) ; Case 14. (N. Wall) Uganda Giraffe, Giraffa camel- pardalis roth\schildi {Lydekker) ; *Okapi, Okapia johnstoni \\Sdater), a rare animal related to the Giraffe and known to 'laturalists only since 1900; Reticulated Giraffe, Giraffa reticii- \\'ata {de Winton) ; Case 15. Habitat Group: Ostriches and tljoung, Roosevelt Expedition, 3o8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON West Wing: North Aisle concluded: The western half of this aisle is occupied by part ot the collection of Birds: but since it is crowded, badly lighted, and consists mainly of the least complete and least interesting portion of this sub-division, little time need be spent here. There are two cases to a row, each case double-sided : Row I. Birds of Africa: conspicuous are the Kaffir Great-tailed Whydah, Blue-bellied Roller and Senegal King- fisher; Row 2. Many species of South African Plantain- eaters and Hornbills ; Row 3. African Eagles and Vultures ; Guinea^ Fowl, 5 species; (E. side) iSaddle-billed Stork, Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis {Shaw) ; Marabou Stork, Leptoptilos crumeniferus {Lesson) ; Kavirondo Crane, Balea- rica gibhericeps {Reichenow) ; Rosy Pelican, Pelecanus rosens {Gmelin), all of these from Roosevelt Expedition; Rows 4 and 5. Birds of Asia, Philippine Islands, Malacca, etc.; Row 6. Asiatic Eagles, including the Monkey-eat- ing Eagle, Pifthecophaga jefferyi {Grant) ; Jungle-fowl, in- cluding the Red Jungle-fowl, Gallus galliis {Linn), ancestor of the domestic species; Javan Jungle-fowl, Gallus varius\ {Shaiv) ; Gray Jungle-fowl, Gallus sonnerati {Temminck ), etc.; also (E. side) Pheasants, Peacocks, Adjutant Bird, Bit- terns, etc. ; Rows 7-10. Birds of Euro'pe. The eastern cases, containing mammals, have already been visited (p. 305). On the S. Wall (E. to W.) are three small Habitat Groups: i. Argus Pheasant, Argnsiamis argiis {Linn.):] 2. Rhinoceros Hornbill, Biiceros rhinoceros {Linn.), show- ing curious nest ; 3. *Whale-headed Stork, Balaeniceps rex (Roosevelt Expedition). Western Range: Birds continued: The collections here exhibited include the Birds of Australia and the South Pacific f and the Birds of North and South America. The cases irj this range along the W. wall are placed transversely, or a right angles with the wall ; those on the E. side are groupec so as to form alcoves, often with a small central case in thf alcove. Since the birds are grouped according to habitat from S. to N., the visitor will find it more convenient tf zigzag back and forth between the transverse cases and thi alcoves, thus covering both sides of the range simultane ously. Entering from S. W. Pavillion, we find on L., a smal Habitat Group, the *Kea or Mountain Parrot, Nestor nota\ bills {Gould). This bird, a native of New Zealand is naturally vegetarian in diet) about 1870, however, when sheepraising was extensively introduce^ ZOOLOiGICAL EXHIBITS 309 many sheep were found dead, with gaping wounds torn in their backs and sides. The source of destruction was traced to these parrots, which had acquired an unnatural appetite for sheep fat. This group shows two birds at their abnormal feast. 2d Habitat Group, *Lyre Bird, Menura siiperha {Latham): ist Transverse Case: Birds of Paradise: *Empress Augusta Victoria's Bird of Paradise; ^Greater Bird of Paradise; Meyer's Promerops ; Grand Prome- rops, etc.; 2d T. Case: Paroquets, Lorikeets, Cocka- toos, Kingfishers, and other birds of Australia, New Guinea, Tasmania, Celebes, etc.; In central aisle are two small cases: a. Australian Birds concluded: Fly- catchers. Robin-chats, Fantails, and other small varieties; b. South American Birds: vivid hued Caciques. Orioles, Trou- pials, etc.; 3rd, 4th and 5th T. Cases: South America con- tinued: Toucan, 26 species; Aracari, 12 species; Costa Rican Quetzal ; Reisplendent Trogon ; Chachalaca, Curassow, etc. ; Op- posite, 1st Alcove; Cassowary, Ibis, Wandering Albatross, Herons, Ducks, etc.; Parrots. 70 species; Hawks, 43 species; 5d Central Aisle Case : South American Crackles and ,Drioles; Habitat Group, *Hoatzin, Opisthocomus hoazin ■QhiUcr) ; 2d Alcove : Sun-grebes. Penguins, Rheas, etc. ; here dso begms the Collection of **North American Birds, the nost extensive, best arranged, and most fully labeled of the Vluseum's ornithological exhibits : This alcove contains many (ong-birds: Buntings, Cardinals; Tanagers, Orioles, Black- .)irds, Bobolinks, etc.; 6th T. Case: Finches, 108 exhibits; >parrows, 108 exhibits ; Swallows. Wax-wings. Wrens, Mock- ng-birds, Thrushes, Dippers, Larks, Wag-tails, etc., 172 ex- libits; 3d Alcove: Warblers. ;Shrikes, etc., continued: 161 xhibits; Habitat Group: Carolina Parakeet, Conuropsis irohnensis (Linn.); Auks, Puffins, Guiillemots, Auklets, etc.; *Great Auk and Auk's Egg, Plautus impennis, {Linn.). This bird has for many years been extinct and specimens f either bird or eg^ constitute one of the great rarities of 'llections. 'There are only three known specimens in Amer- i : a. at Vassar College. Poughkeepsie ; b. at the Academy of atural Sciences, Philadelphia; c. the present specimen, in e U. S. National Museum. ;th T. Case: Flycatchers, Phoebes. Chickadees. Alagpies, avens. Jays ; Owls. 56 exhibits. 8th T. Case : Woodpeckers, ipsuckers, Kingfishers, Swifts, Humming-birds. Whioooor- dls. Goatsuckers, Cuckoos, Flickers, gth T. Case: Hawks, ites. Falcons. 66 specimens; Eagles, Vultures, etc., 2^ speci- ens. Opposite, 4th Alcove: Ptarmigans, Sage Grouse, Bob- 310 RIDER'S WASHINGTON whites, Quail; Habitat Groups; Q. Ruffed • Grouse ; 2. Dusky Grouse. 5th Alcove: Plovers, Lapwings, Oyster-catchers, Sandpipers, Snipe, Curlews, and other wading birds; Grouse. Wild Turkeys, Frairiehens, etc. loth T. Case: Doves, Pigeons, Cranes, Coots, etc. At W. end, wall case containing *Habitat Group, "An Interrupted Meal." This group, mounted by Frederic A. Lucas, received a diploma of honor from the Society of American Taxidermists, in Boston. It shows a Red-tailed Hawk, Buieo horealis, at- tacked by a Goshawk, Accipitcr atricapillus, while eating a Ruffed Grouse. nth T. Case: Terns and Gulls, 75 exhibits. Adjoining E. end. : *Habitat Group. Passenger Pigeons, Ectopistcs migratorius Linn. In Audubon's time, this species of bird, now extinct, ex- isted in thousands of millions. They were wantonly killed inj prodigious quantities, for food or for sport, but also for feed-j ing hogs. The last surviving specimen died in captivity in the; Cincinnati Zoological Garden, Sept. i, 1914- I2th T. Case : Herons, Egrets, Bitterns. 36 specimens! 13th T. Case : Geese, Brants. Spoonbills, Ibises. Eider Ducks Swans, Mergansers, etc. At E. End. Habitat Group, AmericarJ Flamingo. Phornicopferus ruber (Linn.) . 14th T. Case: Loom Grebe, Petrel, Fulmar, Albatross. Opposite, 6th Alcove : Teal Widgeon, Wood Duck, ^Mallard, Booby, Anhinga or Snak< Bird, Cormorant, Man-o'-war Bird, Pelican. h. Miscellaneous Collections Second Floor. Rotunda Gallery. Here is placed (1922' the Hugo Worch Collection of Pianos. It comprises 112 ex hibits, including specimens from Europe, Austria, Italj America, etc. Note especially the Italian Harpsichord, 153^ The Upright Piano made by C. F. L. Albrecht, Phila., 182 (one of the first Uprights made in that city) ; Upright Piani made by Andrew Stein, Vienna, 1788 (the oldest and rares Upright in this country) ; Upright Piano made by John Os borne, Boston, 1817 (the most primitive American UprigH of which there is any trace) ; Piano made by John Sellert Phila., about 1775 (one of the first pianos made in Americal Skcoxd Floor. East Wing. South Aisle: Minerolog continued: MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 311 Central Cases: Nos. i to 7 contain the *Isaac Lea Col- lection of Gems and Precious Stones. The nucleus of this collection was assembled by Dr. Isaac Lea, the well-known naturalist of Philadelphia. In 1894 it was willed to The National Museum by his daughter, Mrs. Frances Lea Chamber- lain. Her husband, Dr. L. T. Chamberlain, who was Honorary Asso- ciate in Mineralogy until 1913, added a large number of specimens, and in his will left a sum of money the income of which is to be applied to the preservation and increase of the collection. Case I. Specimens of Corundum, Rubies, Topazes, Sap- phires, etc. ; Case 2. Aquamarines, Beryls, Emeralds, Zircons^ Pyropes, Tourmalines, etc.; Case 3. Moonstone, Amazonstone, Lapis Lazuli, Rhodonite, Obsidian, Malachite, Amber, etc.; Case 4. Amethyst, Citrine Quartz, Rose Quartz, Smoky Quartz, etc. ; Case 5. Rock Crystal, Opalescent Quartz, Aven- turine Quartz, Chr3'SOphrase, Cat's eye, Tiger-eye, Jasper^ Bloodstone, etc.; Case 6. Agate and Moss-Agate, On.vx and Cameos of Onyx, Carnelian, Sardonyx, Chalcedony, etc.; Case /._ Jade. Opal, Baroche and other Pearls, Shell Cameos, Turquoises, Variscite, Coral, etc. The two succeeding cases contain: Case 8. Many varie- Jes of Gem Opal, imbedded in rocks; Case 9. Gold nug- jets, wire gold, leaf gold, crystallized gold, placer gold, native [filver, etc. 'I North Wall Cases : This exhibit consists of 14 double lases, containing a Systematic Collection of minerals rranged in series according to Dana's "System of Mineral- ogy," 6th ed., 1892. The classification follows : i. The Chem- :al Composition. 2. The Crystallo'graphic Relationships. The pecimens in the several cases are fully labeled and explained. West End Wall : Systematic Collection, continued. Sup- lemental cases: Exhibits of minerals showing Physical . froperties, namely, a. Color; b. Lustre; c. Hardness; d. Crystalization ; e. Structure, f. Radioactivity. ; South Wall Cases: i. Exhibit illustrating Native Ele- ments. Only 17 of the chemical elements, so far identified, re found in appreciable quantities in the native or free state. Calcite an Aragonite. 3. Table Case: Exhibit of imitation nd artificial gems ; the former being ingenious substitutes,, hile the latter are chemical reproductions of the itural stones. 4. Quartz and its variations (the most abun- mt and most widely distributed of all minerals). 5. Table ase: Gem minerals, a. in natural rough form; b. Gems : the cut and finished form. 6. Dishrow Collection of New- 'Tsey Zeolites and Associated Minerals. Gift of William Disbrow, Newark, N. J. 7. Table Case: Miscellaneous 312 RIDER'S \VASHINGTOx\ collection of specimens recently described in the Museum Publications. 8. Containing mainly carved specimens of Rock Crystal, Agate, Serpentine, etc. 9. Varieties of Silica occurrinii in the natural state. 10. Table Case: Shepard Collection of Minerals, containing many new mineral species discovered and tontaining complete series of all known radioactive minerals and radium ores, both American and foreign, together with photograph autographed card of Madame Curie. Charles Upham Shepard (1804-86) was one of the earliest of American mineralogists. His collection, part of which is contained in this case, includes over three hundred gems, and is exhibited through the courtesy of his son, Dr. C. XJ. Shepard of Summerville, N. C. II. Varieties of Carbonite of Lime occurring in nature. 12. Table-case : Shepard Collection continued. 13. Miscel- laneous exhibit of minerals, comprising specimens too large to be included in the Systematic Collection on N. Wall, 14. Table-case: Minerals of Lake Superior Region. Mich.i This locality has become famous for the beauty of its min-j erals, especially for its copper and iron ores. 15. Miscellaneou^i exhibits continued from case 13. 16. Recent accessions (i9i6-| 17) not yet classified. 17. ^Malachite and Azurite. Note thfj vivid colorings. South East Pavilion. This hall is devoted to exhibits of L The metal-bearing minerals ; IL The non-metallic minerals The former are shown in cases along the S. E. and N. wallsi "beginning with the first case E. of No. 17 in South aisle I. Radium ores and Radio-active minerals : Carnotite, Tor bernite, Uraninite, Gummite, etc. 2. Copper Ores. Easj Wall : 3. Gold Ores. 4 and 5. Silver Ores. 6. Lead Ores. Zinc Ores. 8. Copper Ores. 9. Copper Ores concluded; Ore'i of Antimony and minor metals, including Arsenic, Bismutl Cadmium and Platinum. 10, Mercury and Aluminnuim ores' II. Nickel ores. 12. Tungsten. Vanadium and minor metal msed in steel making (Titanium, Molybdenum, etc.). i; 14, 15, 16. Iron Ores. West Wall (N. to S.) : Non-metallic Alinerals. i. Natun Salts, Rare Earths and Minor Minerals. 2. Nitrates, Borate and Sulphates. 3. Haloid Salts ; Halites, Fluorites and Cryc lites. 4. Micas, Steatites and Soapstones. 5. Asbestos, Crud and Manufactured. 6. The Diamond. This exhibit illui trates the geological conditions of the famous diamond fielo' constituting the De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd., Kini berly, S. A. East Wing, North Aisle : The exhibits herein containc|' ■oomprising thirty-three wall cases and many other specimen MISGELLANiEOUS COLLECTIONS 313 attached to the walls, and exhibited in the central corridor, consist exclusively of building and ornamental stones, marble granite onyx, etc. By far the greater part of the collection has been donated by the leading quarries of America, and consists chiefly of cubes, showing the grain and quality of the stone both polished and in the rough. East Range and North Range, East Section: North American Antiquities. This collection extends uninter- ruptedly through these two ranges and inner side aisles, and may be most conveniently visited by following one line of cases at a time, throughout the entire length of both ranges. East Range, East Wall: (S. to (N.) : i. Model of Penasco Blanco, an ancient ruined Pueblo of New Mexico. 2. Ancient pottery from the Rio San Francisco, New Alexico. 3-4. Antiquities of New Mexico: Arrow points, pottery, bone whistles, bone awls, etc. 5. Antiquities from pre-historic ruins in southern Arizona: mats, baskets, bags, knives, sandals, etc. 6. Ancient pottery from the Jemez Plateau. N. M. 7. Fabrics, sandals, basketry, etc., from Socorro Co., N. M. 8. Aboriginal stone implements from New (Mexico. 9. Basketry, woven cloth, sandals, hafted axes, etc., from Cliff Dwelings of Colorado. 10. Mauls, axes, pestles and ancient pottery from S. W. Colorado. II. Grooved stone axes of many types from many localities. i[2. Antiquities oi western Utah, including wooden agricul- ijural implements, _ pottery, pestles, arrow heads, bone awls, |tc. 13. Antiquities from Wyoming. 14. Implements, weap- ons, etc., from Idaho, Washington, ^Montana, California and ;] Oregon. 15. Synoptic Series of Abraiding implements used ; ^y Indians from Maine to California; also Synoptic Series ' )f Plummit stones. 16, Arrow-heads, stone implements and jDOttery from Texas, Iowa, Arkansas and Indiana. 17. Rejectage ;i?f blade-making, from Mill Creek Chert Quaries, Illinois. ^i!8. Arrow-heads, implements, pottery, etc.. found in mounds \i Illinois. 19. Synoptic Series of Notched axes. North Wall (E. toW.) : i. ^Aboriginal Iron-Mining Group, ,wking underground in an ore-body of hematite. 2. Synoptic series of hematite implements, also samples of ore and of yel- )w and red oxides and white Kaolin, dug out by pre-historic ribes in Missouri. 3. Antiquities of Missouri. 4." Rejectage of jianufacture, Flint Ridge Quarries, Ohio, 5, Ohio continued. |rrow-head_s, spearpoints, hammer-stones, pipes, knives, etc. \. Antiquities from Madisonville cemetery. Ohio. 7. The H. Harris Collection of Archaeological oibjects from Ohio d Missouri. 8. Contents of a Spring Shrine, Afton, Okla, 314 RIDER'S WASHINGTOxN p. Antiquities from West Virginia and Tennessee. lO. Reject- age of blade-making, from Peoria Chert Quarries, ii. Mound Collection, mainl}' from Monroe and Loudan Cos., Term. 12. Picks, sledges and sheets from aboriginal mica mines, N. C 13. Antiquities of Kentucky, including grooved axes, celts, pestles, spear-heads, drill-points, etc.; also ancient pot- tery from Arkansas. 14. Novaculite Quarries of Arkansas: refuse oif manufacture and implements used in the work of making leaf -shaped blades. 15. Antiquities of Arkansas, including earthenware, arrow-heads, hammer-stones, etc. 16. Synoptic Series of cache blades. 17. Ancient earthenware of the Eastern States. 18. Synoptic Series of tobacco pipes. North Range, Central Cases (W. to E.) : i. (W. Wall Case) xAboriginal sculpture of the United States, including casts. 2 and 3. Synoptic Series oif Tobacco Pipes (most varied in design of any aboriginal stone work) : 4. S>'noptic Series of pierced tablets and gorgets — a numerous and widely distributed class of pre-historic rehcs, which are usually: regarded as personal omaments. 5. Ceremonial objects! (temporary instalment). 6. Synoptic Series of Boat-shapedj Amulets; also Bird-shaped Amulets-; found in burial mounds and graves in the Ohio Valley and around the Great Lakes; also Series of "Bannerstones," resembling double-bladed adzcej and pierced to receive a haft; use unknown; 7. Masterpieces of flint chipping: long blades, arrow-heads, etc. 8. Synopti Series of pigment plates (stone plates or palettes used byi Mound Builders for grinding pigments) ; also Synoptic Series of gaming discs used by eastern U. S. tribes. 9. Chipped fiint blades. 10. Synoptic Series of cache blades. (East Range, Central Exhibits) N. to S. : i. "The Stone Implement Maker," model of figure chipping a bowlder witB a stone hammer. 2. Chipped flint discs peculiar to Ohio, Misn sissippi, Temiessee and Cumberland River valleys. 3. Syni optic Series of cup stones, eastern U. S. 4. S3nioptic Seriej of Agricultural Implements, chiefly from middle Mississippi valleyT 5. Tennessee and Missouri: blades, celts, alsi abraiding stone used to sharpen stone implements. 6. Synt optic Series of Celts, eastern U. S. 7. Pseudo-Artifactsi This series contains natural forms of rock variously produce^ resembling or suggesting works of art, but bearing no actual trace of human handiwork. 8. Synoptic Series of Adz Blades eastern U. S. 9. Co'pper ornaments from mounds ; also rub(| bing stones and implements. 10. Agricultural ImplementI continued. 11. Bone awls and other relics from mounds nea|| Naples, III, models of mounds ; also series of grooved anj| MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 315 uiigrooved adzes from Alaska, Washington, Oregon and Cali- fornia. 12. Synoptic Series oi the Grooved Ax, eastern U, S. 13. Ancient textiles from caves in Morgan Co.. Tenn., also wooden carvings from Unga Island, Alaska. 14. Synoptic Series oil Hammer-stones, eastern U. S. 15. Stoiie imple- ments from various Pueblo tow^ns and ruined sites. 16. Stone implements from arid region of Colorado, Arizona, etc. 17. Specimens oi ancient pottery of the Pueblo region. East Winig continued: West Wall Cases. (iHere, as on the Main Floor, the side aisle is divided at each pillar into alcoves, each alcove containing 6 or more cases. While the abundance of these exhibits delights the specialist, there is so much repetition that the average visitor will care only for a few of the more striking objects here, noted,. The num-" bers refer to the alcoves and not to the separate cases. I. Antiquities of Arizona : note especially *Model of Cliflf Dwelling, "Mummy Cave Ruin," so named from mummy of •an infant found there ; situated in Canyon del Muerto. North- east Arizona ; modeled by Cosmo Mindelcff ; Model oif Com- pound A, Casa Grande Ruins, Pinal Co., Ariz, ; also Antiqui- [ies of Little Colorado River region, chiefly from collection oi Dr. J. Walter Fezvkes. 2. Arizona continued : Pottery (ind implements from cliff dwellings ; Comprehensive model >i)f Casa Grande Ruins, (Compounds A, B, C and D), dis- tovered by the Jesuit father, Eusebio FranciscO' Kino in 1694. |. Arizona continued: Note especially large assortment of •eliigious oibjects from Bear Creek Cave, Graham Co., sug- gesting that this was a spot of peculiar sacredness. 4. Antiqui- ies of the Southwest, chiefly from California, 5. Antiquities if Pacific States : not especially *Aboriginal Soapstone Quarry jroup. s'howing man with stone pick cutting out a roundish nass of soapstone, while woman with rude chisel roughs out [ I glo'bular pot. 6. Pacific Coast continued : Note wood lijarvings from burial cave, Delaroff Hair'bor, Alaska. [,i. Southeast Alaska: Tools and household implements of one, stone, slate, etc. Note at corner of North Range large tone Image, from Easter Island (in S. Pacific Ocean, 2000 from any other inhabited land). North Range: Sbuth Wall Cases (E. to W.) : Alcove i. ntiquities from Obsidian (volcanic class) Mines of Mexico: Antiquities of West Indies; A. Stone Collars: B. Tri- binted Idols: C. Maskettes of Stone; D, Pentaloid Celts; vlcove 2. West Indies continued : Celts and chisels ; Antiqui- les of Porto Rico, pottery and beadwork; Alcove 3. Santo 'omingo: terra,-icotta; vessels plates for grinding cassava; 3i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Miscellaneous collection from caves and prehistoric village sites in Aleutian Islands; Alcove 4. Relics of Hunter tribes of Kansas ; Antiquities of Ohio and of Hawaii ; Alcove 5. Antiquities of Texas ; Colonial Relics of European manufac- ture, found in Indian graves ; Alcove 6. Collection illustrat- ing the manufacture of Hatchet-blades ; Collection of Archae- ological Relics of the District of Columbia; Alcove 7. Antiqui- ties of Costa Rica and California. North Hall/ East Aisle: American Archaeology con- timied; Antiquities of Mexico, Central and South America. A large part of this collection necessarily consists of casti and models, reproducing famous ruins and prehistoric art treasures which have not been permitted to leave their native countries. The plaster casts are mostly from sculptures pre- served in the National Museum at Mexico City. The models of temples and other ancient buildings, on a scale of 1/24 original size, were all made under thd direction of W. H, Holmes, by De Lanccy Gill, architect, H. IV. Hendley and W. H. Gill, sculptors. Central Exhibits (N. to S.) : i. Commemorative Stonel of Tizoc (plaster cast), a huge disc with calendar marksl and other sculptures, sometimes called the "Sacrificial Stone" (dug up in the principal plaza of Mexico City) ; 2. Reduced! model of the "The Castle," in ancient city of Chichen-Itzi,! Yucatan. This is the best preserved of the several pyramid; temples of that city. The pyramid is 190 ft. sq. at base, 6r ft. sq. at summit and 80 ft. high. The temple measures 44x48 ft. ; 3. Chac-Mool, reclining human figure, heroic size, found at Chichen-Itza (the name signifies "Tiger," and w: given because the figure was found near the Temple of Tigers ) 4. Colossal figure of Aztec deity from ancient City of Mexico The complicated carvings of this huge sculpture apparently repre sent a standing human figure, but the human elements are dominatet by those of serpents and monsters. The opposite fronts are supposef to symbolize respectively Teoyaomiqui, Goddess of Death, and Huitzilc pochtli, Goddess of War, the whole being symbolic of the hideous religious beliefs of the Aztecs, involving ruthless human sacrifices. ThI visitor should compare this exhibit with the much finer specimen a Maya art. No. 9, below. 5. Model of ruined temple of Xochicalco ("Hill of Flowers")| situated 40 miles S. of Mexico City. 6. Model of "The Palace* at Mitla, Mexico; 7. *Colossal figure of a Maya Deity (plaste cast), from ruined city of Quirigua, Guatemala; 8. Reduce model of "The House of the Governor," one of the chiel surviving structures in the ruined city of Uxmal, Yucatani 9-16. Case Exhibits: 9. Antiques of Mexico: froi Nahvartl, Vallev of Mexico. Terra-cotta stamps and mould! MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 3i7 spindle-whorls images, etc. ; lo. Central and South America ; Carved amulets, beads, pendants, etc., of jade and other semi- precious stones. II. Antiquities of Patagonia: Stone imple- ments, flints, scrapers, arrow-points, etc., mainly from Rio Negro District ; also earthenware effigy vessels from Manizales, Colombia; (C A. Pope Collection.) 12. Antiquities of Chile: ^Primitive mining implements found in the Restauradora Mine in iSgg. The most important feature of this find was the desiccated body of a prehistoric miner, who apparently had been accidentally caught and crushed by a cave-m of earth and stone. This body, curiously pre- served from decay because impregnated with copper salts, is now ex- hibited in the American Museum of Natural History, N. Y. C. (see Rider's New York City, p. 296). ■ (b.) Antiquities of Ecuador and Bolivia : Note espe- :i'ally *Ancient silver image from ruins O'U island in Lake Titicaca, Bolivia; (c.) Antiquities of Venezuela; 13. An- :iquitities of Peru : pottery, vessels, stone implements and jtensils, bronze and copper articles, breastpins, beads, etc. ; [4. Peru continued. *Mummy of a child from grave near Ancon, Peru ; Another child mummy ; aprons, belts, ponchos, ptc. i| This case also contains textiles, pottery and copper implements from ipre-Columbian Haucas (or mounds) and cemeteries in the Valley of ;)hicama. (^ 15. *Feathered Ponchos or Indian capes. Two speci- nens consisting of feathers sewed upon woven fabric, and orming elaborate patterns in vivid colors. These are ranked mong the finest specimens of itheir kind. Gift of Dr. A. ilrdlicka. f At South end of Aisle : i. Temple doorway in Chichen- iltza, Yucatan; 2. Portion of Interior Wall and sloping ceiling v,f a ceremonial chamber in the principal temple of the tennis purt or gymnasium in wbat is known as the "Temple of ',||ie Jaguars" (so-called because of the line of Jaguars form- ig a frieze around the exterior). '1 East zvall (S. to N.) : i. Section of a column from Chichen-Itza cast) ; 2. Model of the Temple of the Cross, Palenque, State of hiapas, Southern Mexico; 3. Antiquities of Argentina; 4. Costa Rican ntiquities; 5. Antiquities of Brazil; 6. Rica, idols, etc.; 7. *Antiquities Nicaragua: pottery with curious decorations of snakes, frogs and zards; 8. Costa Rica continued : 9. Ancient Mexican sculptures (plaster csimilies) : Aztec deities including: Serpent Deity, Goddess of Fertility, oddess of Water, etc.; 10. Costa Rica continued; 11. *Habitat group, lowing two Indian stone-cutters eanployed respectively in dressing a luare block, and ornamenting one side with sculptures; 12. Costa ica continiied; 13. Mexican sculptures continued: coiled teatherede rpent, stone yokes, etc.; 14. Costa Rica: stone idols continued : is-i?-. ntiquities of Mexico continued : Note especially figure of Centeotl, Dddess of Maize. 3i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON North End Case: Prehistoric musical instrvuiients, inclu'dinu specimens from ^lexico, Central and South America, pottery rattles, whistling bottles and vases (from graves), flageolets and pan-pipes (oi stone, reed, bone and pottery). West Wall (N., to S.) Cases i and 2. Mexican antiquities. Between these cases is a facsimile of the great Calendar Stone. 1 1 ft. 2 in. in diameter, found on the site of the present Cathedral of Mexico, formerly occupied by the Aztec Teocalli Temple, destroyed by the Spanish conquerors. Beyond, occupying the greater part of the western wall, are two long cases of five divisions each, containing antiquities of: a. Mexico (States of Chihuahua, Jalisco, Oaxaca, etc); b. Guatemala; c. Honduras; d. Nicaragua; e. Costa Rica; f. Panama; g. Peru; h. Argentina. Note especially the elaborate and grotesque Oaxaca idols anl Nicaragua painted pottery. Affixed to the wall are numerous plaster casts of sculptured panels, etc. The most noteworthy is a dark red panel at S. E, cor., being an altar^ panel from the ancient Maya Temple of the Sun, at Tikal. Guatemala. North Hall. Wc si em Aisle: Antiquities of Europe, x\sij and Africa. South End: Plaster casts of classic sculptures I. The Laocoon (original in Vatican) ; 2. Hermes (from the Island of Andros) ; 3. The Fates (E. Pediment of the Parthe- non) ; 4. Model of the Parthenon. East Wall Cases; (S. to N.) : i. Mediterranean An- tiques, casts of Greek and Roman sculptures; 2. Italiar potteries: vases, jugs and bowls; 3 and 4. Anf'quities of West ern Asia: (Hebrew, Syrian, etc.) : The Bible in Latin, Greek Turkish, Korean, etc.; also copy of "The Life and Moral of Jesus of Nazareth," compiled by Thomas Jefferson ii 1804, together with the two copies of the English Ne\\| Testament from which Jefiferson took his cHpping; musics instruments mentioned in the Bible; costumes of Palestiii- and Syria ; ornaments and utensils ; coins mentioned in tli'i Bible (Hebrew, Persian, Greek and Roman) ; Prec'ous stonei mentioned in the Bible; 5. Assyrian and Babylonian Antiqi uities : Plaster casts of bas-reliefs, etc. *, 6. Antiquities oij Egypt : sculptures, natural products, Egyptian textile artj modern Eg3ptian bricks ; agricultural products, cotton, sugar cane and wheat; Egyptian sculptures (casts), funeral con and fragments of mummied animals ; 7. Egypt continttcc Mortuary relics, mummy cloth, etc. West Aisle continued; Central cases (N". to S.) : Case Greek, Roman and Etruscan Pottery; Case 2. Collection o Roman Bronzes and Glass-ware, lent by Thomas NelsQ Page ; Case 3. Greek and Roman Pottery and Bronzes cofil tinned: Case 4. EgA'-ptian Antiquities, necklaces and figurinosi| Mummied cat; Case 5. Roman and Etruscan terra cottj figurines (lent by Mrs. E. A. H. Magrndcr) ; Case 6. Ancieji coins : Greek, Roman, Syrian and Armenian Case 7. Roman ar| Etruscan fish-hooks, surgical and dental instruments, awlj MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 319 bodkms, needles, razors and bronze household articles ; Case 8. Germany, Stone Age: Flake knives; roughly chipped celts; partly pO'lished celts ; flint daggers ; ax hammers, etc. Case 9. Miscellaneous bronzes : celts, daggers and sickles from: Hun- gary, Italy, Germany, Switzerland (Lake Dwellers), Sweden and England ; Case 10. East Africa, Somaliland : Implements of flint and quartz collected and presented by Sir H. W. Seton- Karr; Case 11. Antiquities of Ancient Troy: Collection of pre-historic objects found at Hissarlik, the site of ancient Troy, by Dr. Henry Schliemann during the years of 1870-82. Presented by Mrs. Schliemann. Also collection of Armenian antiquities from the ancient necropolis of Monci-yeri, ne'ir A.llahverdi in the Caucasus; Case 12. A. Africa, Stone Age: Stone implements and fragments of pottery, collected mainly from Kitchen-middens and caves of Cape Colony; B. Egypt md Palestine Stone Age : Antiquities from Wady El-Shiekh ' md from tomb of Osiris at Abydos ; Case 13. Model of a Swiss Lake Dwelling settlement; Cases 14-15. Stone Age in ^apan, Korea, Australia and Tasmania; Case 16. Antiquities ;)f Asia ; India, Indo-China and Cmbodia ; collection of chipped mplements found by A. C. Carlyle, of the Arch^ological Sur- tey, in the caves and rock shelters of the Vindhva Hills, Cen- ra India; collection of objects from Kitchen-middens on the hores of Lake Ton-le-Sap, by Prof. L. H. James. i West Wall Cases (S. to N.) : i. Stone Age implements toni Denmark, Sweden and Norway. 2. Antiquities found in )anish Kitchen-middens. 3-4. Antiquities from the Lake- i) welling period in Switzerland (Neolithic Age). 5. Stone- Vge in Belgium: Bones, animal skulls, celts, axes, flint ^nives and other relics. 6. Mesvinuan and Strepijan Arti- acts: Nodules and flakes of flint or brown chert, adapted ) the purpose of hammering, cutting, etc. 7. Dolmen ieposits in France, Neolithic period. 8. Art works of the !tone Age: Casts of sculptured and engraved horns. 9. France ontimied: Fragments of implements from caverns illustrate 'lig the arts of the Paleolithic period. 10. Stone Age in ingland: Flakes, gun-flints, etc. made at Brandon, 'Suffolk. :. Arrowheads, chisels^ knives, flakes, celts and scrapers |om England and Ireland, iNeolithic Period. 12. Ancient joins, Roman, Persian, Macedonian, etc. 13. England con- wed: flint implements and other relics of the Paleolithic jiriod, including a number of Eoliths, believed to be the ^irliest known attempts of man at tool-making. 14. Coins, )ttery and other antiquities from Egypt and Italy. 15. Pre- storic Antiquities from the Terremare settlements in Italy 2: 320 ' RIDER'S WASHINGTON arrowhead flint implements, etc. i6. Roman and Etruscan Antiquities. 17. Turkestan : collection oif potteries and tiles dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. 18. Potteries from Greece and Italy, including much Italian Black-ware and Arretine pottery. North Central Pavilion: Antiquities of Egypt, Assyria and Palestine (Unless otherwise stated these exhibits are plaster reproductions) : South IV dl (W. to E.) : i. Statue of the God Hadad, with inscription in old Aramaean. Erected in North Syria by Panammu II (see exhibit 9 below) ; 2. Stele of Sargon 11, King of Assyna 709-05 B. C. (father of Sennacherib). The original Stele was found in 1845 on the Island of (Cypress , 3. Human-headed, winged bull, found on site of Ninevah in 1846, by Sir Austin H. Layard (original in British museum) ; 4. Lid of sarcophagus of Sebaski, an Egyptian priest of about 700 B. C, Rosetta Stone; 5. Babylonian code of Hammurabi The original was found 1901-02 in the ancient city of Susa (tlu Shushan of the Bible). The compiler of these laws is identifiic with Amraphel, mentioned in Genesis (Gen. XIV, 9), a con- temporary of Abraham. Consequently, this code is 1000 yean older than the Hebrew Pentatuch ; 6. Human-headed, winged Jion from Ninevah, Layard Expedition (see above exhibit 3.) : 7. Horus, Egyptian god, personification of the Morning Sun- 8. Hopi, Egyptian god of the Nile; 9. Torso of Panammu III found at Senjirli. Asia Minor (a King who held sway in the; country of the Hittites in the 8th century B. C). The in- scription consists of 23 lines in old Aramaean, constituting om! of the oldest existing specimens of that language. East Wall Case: Mortuary Customs of Ancient Egyp (coffins and mortuary boxes). Central Exhibits (E. to \\\) : i. Egyptian Mummy o Luexor, 1886. gift of Hon. S. S. Cox, then U. S. Minister t( Turkey. 2. Relief map of Palestine ; 3. Cast of ancient Siloam recording the o^^ening of tihe Pool of Siloam by King Heze kiah; 4. Reproduction of a Greek Inscription from the Tempi of Jerusalem; 5. Cast of Obelisk of Shalmanesor II. Kinj of Assyria; 6. Aloabite Stone (original in Louvre); 7. Roma; Mosaic, Lion attacking a Wild Ass. This exhibit is practically the only remnant of an elaborate mof^ai flooring in the Temple of Astarte, Carthage. It was rescued by Si' Richard Wood, the British Consul General to Tunis, exhibited at th' Philadelphia Centennial Exposition, and presented by him to the Smitr sonian Institution. 8. Cast of Statue of Queen Amenerdas (about 720 B. C.) 9. Cast of Statue of Chepeen, third King of 4th Dynast3(i MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 321 3666 B. C. ; 10. Medeba Mosaic Map (colored drawing of Palestine, from floor in old church in Medeba, in what was formerly Moab). 11-12. Two cases holding Egyptian antiq- uities : Book of the Dead, papyri, Greco-Egyptian portrait, etc.; 13. Wall case, containing coffins and canopus jars. Central Exhibits continued: East Range (N. to S.) : I. and Dolphins: Central exhibits: i. Life-size Model of Sulphurbottom Whale. Balcenoptera miis cuius .{Linn.) from Newfoundland coast length, 78 ft.; 2. Gray Whale, Rhachi- ancctcs glaucus {Cope) reduced model; 3. Skeleton' of com- mon Fniback Whale, Balaenoptera phvsalus {Linn.); 4. Skel- eton of Little Piked Whale, B. acufo-rostrata {Lacepede) ; 5. Humpback Whale, Me.::aptera nodosa (skeleton and one- half model, split lengthwise) ; 6. Skeleton of Sulphurbottom Whale; (total length, 7s ft.; skull. 19 ft. 6 in.); 6. Skull of Killer Whale, Orcinus orva {Linn.); 7. Skull of Baird's Whale, Berardius Bcrardi; 8. Skull of Humpback Whale, Megoptera longimana ; 9. North Atlantic Rig^ht Whale, Bal?ena glacialis (Bonnaterre). North Wall (E. to W^) : Case i. Models of Whales and Porpoises, 10 species; Case 2. Skeletons of Whales and Porpoises, nine species; Case 3- Skeletons, continued: four species. This aisle also contains at present (1922) a number of additional exhibits temporarily transferred from the North- west range. These include : L Fauna of the District of Columbia (note especially the collection of Washington Birds, in 14 cases) ; II. General Entomological Collection (along tS. side of aisle; note especially the tropical Lepi- ioptcra. Butterflies of India, Borneo, Siam, Java, Philippines find iSouth America) ; III. *The J. P. Iddings Collection )F Butterflies and Moths, consisting of about 2500 named pecies, presented in 1921 by the heirs of Dr. Iddings. 1^ Sonthivest Pavilion: Zoology continued; Reptiles and Mshes. Most of these exhibits are skilful and accurate .hodels of originals. Note, however, among central cases, ■■^ collection of *Tropical Fish in tanks of preserving fluid ; |11 the original vivid coloring has been retained. Note jSpecially the following: Rock Beautv, Holocanthus tricolor scarlet, yellow and black) ; "Pa Kul Kui," Tenthis achilles haw, Hawa'i (black, scarlet and blue) ; "Kihi-ki'hi," Zanclus '^nesccns Linn (wihite, black and blue) ; Portuguese Butter- jy, Chaeto'don striafus Linn (pale blue and lemon). J Southwest Pavilion, North End. and North Aisle of West png: Comparative Anatomy. The greater part of this Z22 RIDER'S WASHINGTON exhibit consists of a systematic collection of the skeletons of Mammals, Birds, Reptiles and Fishes. The Western Section oif the North Range is temporarily closed to the public. IV. The Smithsonian Institution — The Arts and Industries Building {The "Old'' National Museum) West of the Army Medical Museum, between 9th and loth Sts., stands the rectangular and somewhat ungainly structure constituting the Arts and Industries Building of the National Museum, popularly known as the "Old Na- tional Museum." The Museum is open daily, except Sunday, from 9 a. m. to 4.30 p. m. There is a small luncheon room situated at the extreme end of the E. wing : good and economical. Lavatories in S. E. corner of Museum. History. The National Museum traces its origin to a society organ- ized in Washington in 1840 under the title of the "National Institute," the object of which included the administration of the Smithsonian be- quest, and the bringing together of collections of Natural Hi;stor\-, Ethnology and kindred subjects, for the purpose of forming a general museum. Congress granted temporary quarters in the Patent Office: and here for some years was housed the nucleus of the collection, con- 1 ststing of miscellaneous "Curiosities" acquired: i. By gift of ■ Foreign Powers to the United States; 2. Sent home by American Consuls resident abroad; 3. Presented by Naval Officers. These col- ( lections were subsequently transferred to the building of the Smith- * sonian Institution, under whose auspices the establishment of a Na- \ tional Museum had been authorized by act of Congress in 1846 {| (V- 255); and as yea.r by year the bulk of the collection augmented, j| the Institution found itself seriously cramped for space. In 1876 camC; the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia, from which so large a col-j lection of valuable articles was acquired by gift to the United States! through the Smithsonian Institution, that they had to be stored in the| so-called Armory Building, now occupied by the Fish Commission j| (p. 245). Prof. Joseph Henry in a letter dated Oct. 8th, 1877, brought to the attention of Pres. Hayes the urgent necessity of a new structure to house these additional and valuable exhibits. Accordingly the Presi- dent in his message recommended that an adequate appropriation should be made for the establishment and maintenance of a National Museum. When the matter was taken up by Congress, it was found that a Museum building worthy to rank among the permanent structures ot the National Capital could not be erected under a million dollars: but that a fairly spacious exhibition building, fairly fireproof and largt enough to house the growing collections for some years to come, migh' be erected for a quarter of that sum. Accordingly $250,000 was appro, priated for the purpose. This first Museum building, completed in 1881. was ar attempt so far as the funds would allow, to achieve a sor of modernized Romanesque style of architecture, in orde;i| OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 323 NX GRAPHIC ARTS. NAVAL ,■ t5RAPHir. ARTS ! ■ ■ ETHNOLOGY: ( ETHNOLOGY I* * NOTTH WEST COyHT. ^ IWHTrtWtST RANG ,1 ''• i ■ « '^"- t ''^^ '1 i MrtRTM MA! I ; ESKIMO, ARCHITECTURE J GALLERY : CERAMICS I I "OKrnMAcL, ^ PUEBLO REGION, y ^ ^ ^^^g^g NORTH EAST RANCt!( NORTH EAST COURt XK. i CATLIN COLLECTION WEST NORTH RANGE. xq. EASTERN AND GREAT PLAINS TRIBES. OKOUNO - PLAM. //ORTHvVESJ-pAVlLIOf/ to L., taking in the Wings a^^ they are succes- sively reached. This aqcordingly is the method 'here pursued. North Range, East Section: United States History con- tinued: The most important exhibits in this room are the personal possessions, household furniture, etc., formerly at Mt. Vernon, known as the **"Lewis Collection of Wash- ington Relics," purchased by the United States Government in 1878 from the heirs of Mrs. Laurence Lewis (Eleanor Parke Custis). They are contained in first cases south of main aisle (E. to W.) : i. Miscellaneous Washington relics, including Bronze bust of Washington, copied from Houdon's life-cast in 1785; *Miniatures of George and Martha Wash- ington, painted on wood by Trumbull (1792-94); 2. Candle- 330 RIDER'S WASHINGTON sticks and taJbleware owned by Washington ; 3. Miscellaneous relics, including an English ke3^ed Zither, presented by Wash- ington to Nellie Custis ; 4. Washington's writing case used during the War of the Revolution; his camp mess-chest with utensils, his treasure chest, etc. : In lower compartment : Tent poles and tents used in the Revolutionary War ; 5. Mirror, tables and chairs owned by Washington at Mt. Vernon ; 6. China, glassware and other objects owned by Washington while President. 7. Swords, canteens, powder-horns, etc., from the Revolution. 8. Swords, uniforms and other relics of the U. S. Navy in the early 19th century. 9. Silver cen- terpiece loaned by the Aztec Club of 1867. Second South Row (W. to E.) : i. Silverware, silhou- ettes and pertsonal ornaments of the early 19th century. 2. Gus- iavus Vasa Fox Collection of works illustrating Russian life and history. Mr. Fox was sent to Russia in 1866, as special Minister to congratulate the Emperor on his escape from assassination. 3. The Gan^evoort Collection of swords, uni- forms, portraits, etc., from the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. 4. Swords, pistols, silverware, etc.. period of the War of 1812. 5. Lezvis Collection continued: Chairs owned by Wash- ington at Mt. Vernon, including easy chair used by him in his bedroom shortly before death. 6. Mirror presented by Washington to his wife in 1/95; panel from the Washington coach, etc. 7. Military Collection of Maj. Gen. John R. Brooke, including presentation and service swords, uniform and insignia. 8. Swords and other relics of Gen. Henry W. Lawton. 9. Swords and other relics of Jose Antonio Paez ; sword carried by Simon Bolivar. 10. Medals and decorations presented to George F. Barker, the physicist. Third South Row: Cases 1-4. Old English Blue china plates, etc., decorated with early views of New York City: The Battery; Old Park Theater; the Great Fire; Plates with scenes from Uncle Tom's Cabin; China forming part of dinner services used during the administrations of Madison, Monroe, Lincoln, Grant and Hayes, etc. 5. Mrs. F. W. Dickens Collection of china and porcelain. English and American ware, copper lustre. Wedgwood, Staffordshire, etc. 6. Old china continued. 7. Dinner service of Lowestoft, a ware generally used in American homes as the best china on special occasions (i 775-1825). West Wall: The Wall Cases contain: (S. to N.) : i-3- Official costumes of William L. Dayton and of Major John Biglow as American Ministers to the Court of Napoilcon III ; also of Sidney Mason (1829) when American Consul at Porto j OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 331 Rico. 4. Collection of National American Suffrage Asso- ciation: Portraits of Dr. Anna Howard Shaw, and Mrs. Carrie Chapman Catt; certified copy of joint resolution of Congress extending right of suffrage to women. North Wall Cases (W. to E.) : i. Woman's Suffrage Collection continued : Relics of Susan B. Anthony. 2-8. Exhibit of swords, partly the Alfred S. Hopkins Collection, and in part lent by War Department. East Wall : Swords lent by War Department continncd. North Aisle Cases (W. to E.) : i. Mahogany table owned by Susan B. Anthony when w^riting the "Declaration of Sen- timents" for women in 1848; also inkstand, purse, gold watch. etc. Cases 2-13. Badges and insignia of officers and enlisted men in U. S. Army, U. S. Navy and U. S. Marine Corps ; U. S. Army decorations and certificates; U. S. War Medals awarded by individual states in recognition of services during War with Spain and in World War; also ^French Bronze Memorials commemorating World War events : Burning of Rheims Cathedral, Defense of Verdun, Victory of the Tanks, etc. On the wall a:bove are several historic portraits, including Gustavus Vasa, King of Sweden, 1523-60, by Adelaide Lenhusen; Gen. Jose Antonio Paez, First President of Vene- zuela, by John J. Peoli ; Joihn Custis and Frances Parks Custis; Rear- Admiral George W. Melville, by Sigismond de Ivanowski. West Range, North Section: *American Historical Cos- tumes: This collection is due to the efforts of Mrs. Julian- James, with the co-operation of Mrs. Stephen B. Elkins, Mrs. John Hay, Mrs. Harriet Lane Johnston, Mrs. Rose Gouverneur Hoes and a number of other ladies. The most interesting feature is a series of life-size models clad in dresses worn by former mistresses of the White House. The heads and faces of these lay figures were modeled in plaster by H. W . Hendley, of the National Museum, the same face being used for all the figures, and differing only in the arrangement of the hair. All the cases and exhibits are fully numbered and accompanied by explanatory placards. Case I. Salmon pink silk dress, hand-painted, worn by Mrs. Washington ; chair, tray, decanter and glass from Mt. Vernon ; 2. Plum-colored crepe dress worn by Mrs. John Adams; 3. Yellow satin brocade dress representing dress I worn by Mrs. Dolly Madison; Blue silk dress worn by Mrs. I Samuel L. Gouverneur, youngest daughter of President Zi2 RIDER'S WASHINGTON Alonroe, and the first bride of the White House; 4. White net dress worn by Mrs, John Quincy Adams; also old gold satin brocade dress worn by Mrs. Andrew Jackson Donald- son ; 5. Blue velvet dress worn by Mrs. Sarah Angelica Van Buren, wife of the President's eldest son ; 6. Gray plush dress worn by Mrs. Jane Irwin Findlay, mistress of the White House under William Henry Harrison ; White gauze dress, vividly embroidered, worn by Mrs. Tyler when presented at the Court of Louis Phillippe; 7. Blue brocade satin dress worn by Mrs. James K. Polk ; Green silk grena- dine worn by Miss Betty Taylor, the President's daughter ; 8. Lavender silk dress worn by Mrs. Fillmore ; Black tulle dress worn by Mrs. Franklin Pierce ; 9. White moire antique silk dress worn, on the occasion of her marriage, by Mrs. Harriet Lane Johnston; (Un-numbered Case) Dress worn by wife of President Lincoln. 10. White silver brocade dress worn by Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant. 11. Dresses worn 'by Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes and Mrs. James A. Garfield. 12. Silk brocade dress, pale green with American Beauty roses, worn by Airs. Grover Cleveland; also dress worn by Mrs. Mary Arthur McElroy, sister of President Arthur. 13. Plum-col- ored brocade worn by Mrs. Benjamin Harrison; also cream- white satin dress worn by Mrs. McKinley; 14. Dress worn by Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt; also white chifTon dress, em- broidered in the Philippine Is-lands, and worn by Airs. William H, Taft. This, like several of the other dresses, was worn at the Inaugural Ball. 15. Djesses worn by the first an second wives oif ex-President Woodrow Wilson. In the bewildering profusion of other exhibits, the visitor should not fail to note the following: Case 21, No. 6. Irish Valenciennes lace collar, made by the novelist, Maria Edge- w'orth ; No. 9. Point d'Argentine lace from a collar once belonging to the Empress Eugenie ; Case 34, No. 2. Wedding dress of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe ; Case 47. Breeches and riding boots, waistcoat and linen shirt worn by Thomas Jefferson ; Case 48. Uniform worn by General Washington when he resigned his commission as Commander-in-Chief of; the Continental Army ; Case 56. Two costumes worn by Char- lotte Cushman in Henry VIII. Northzvest Pavilion: This room, entered from the WestI Range, contains three special collections: i. Musical Instru- ments of the world, arranged in the four series of wall cases;; 2. Numismatics, arranged in table-cases ; 3. Philately, a generalli collection of postage stamps now valued at, approximately,! $250,000; and especially strong in United States stamps. It) OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 333 has recently been augmented by the valuable private collection of the late David W. Cromwell, of New York. The stamp collection is in charge of Mr. J, B. Leavy, whose office is in the Historical Department's room, in the West Range. This room also contains the Robert Heivett Collection ■of Medallic Lincolniana; and the Thomas Kelly Boggs Col- lection of decorations, medals and badges. Above the wall cases are arranged a miscellaneous series of bronze busts, 48 in number, including Scientists, Judges, Presidents, and State Governors. West Wing : This wing, formerly devoted to Ethnology, is at present in a transition state, and still contains at W. end a few Chinese exhibits ; while at E. end considerable space has been, usurped by an overflow from the Rotunda of the World War collection. The chief Technological exhibits include: (N. Wall) 1. Miodel showing occurrence and mining of Tin ; 2. Model showing the mining of deep gold placers in frozen ground, near Fairbanks, Alaska. 3. Exhibits showing the various methods oif mining gold. Central Exhibits, i. Model of Charcoal Blast Furnace. 2. Specimens of copper ore, showing typical examples of native copper. 3. Large model of Iron Mine, showing ex- posed sections of earth's strata. South Wall: i. Model of Copper Mine of Utah Copper Co., Bingham Canyon, Utah (a mountain of copper ore % mi. high, which in ten years has produced enough copper to stretch a telegraph Wiire 500 times around the earth). 2. Model of Salt Creek Oil Fields, showing both surface and underground conditions. West Range, South Section : Mineral Technology, con- tinued : The Story of White Lead, showing the world's 1 supply by countries, and some of its industrial uses: Zinc, ' its oxides and industrial uses; Manufacture of Glass; Exhibit ! of Natural Ingredients for making Glass; Examples of the 'first successful production of optical glass in Amerca ; I Model of Regenerative Glass Melting Furnace (Macbeth- Evans Glass Co., Pittslburgh) ; Exhibits of Natural and Arti- j ficial Abrasives. I Southwest Pavilion: Exhibits of Coal, Coke, etc.; *Min- :' iature Colliery and' Coke Plant: Platform exhibit 30x44 ft., gift of the Consolidation Coal Co., Fairmont, W. Va. This is I 334 RIDER'S WASHINGTON an exact reproduction of the company's property, including mines, railway tracks and yard, coke furnace, etc. The ma- chinery operates for three minutes every quarter hour. South Range, West Section: Mineral Technology, con- tinued. West Wall (N. to S.) : i. Mica, its occurrence and trade values. 2 and 3. Asbestos, its occurrence and uses. South Wall : i. American Clay Products ; ornamental pottery showing technique of clay working. 2. .Model of Sulphur Mine, showing the Frasch Method. 3. Soda Manufacturing Plant, representing the source and extraction of raw materi- als, salt, limestone and ammonia, and their treatment in manu- facturing caustic soda, soda ash and baking soda. 4. Natural Gas production transmission, service and conservation. East Wall : I. Petroleum Technology : Model showing occurrence extraction, transportation and refining of crude oil. 2. American Dyes. 3. Technology of Asphalt : Specimens shownng physical properties of natural asphalt and their appli- cation in use. North Wall: i. Asphalt continued. 2. Limes, 'Concretes and Plasters. Central Exhibits (W. to E.) : i. (R.) Model showing occurrence and mining of Salt, and preparation for commer- cial use. Gift of Worcester Salt Co. Machinery operates every 15 minutes. 2. (L.) Model showing Portland cement manufacturing in Lehigh District of East Pennsylvania; con- structed in co-operation with Atlas Portland Cement Co. 3. (R.) Model of Lime Manufacturing Plant, 1/48 natural size. Gift of the Charles Warner Co., Wilmington, Del. 4. (L.) Model, 1-48 actual size, showing method of mining gypsum and its treatment preparatory to nianufacturng it into plaster : Constructed in co-operation with the U. S. Gypsum Co. 5. (R.) *Model of Trinidad Pitch Lake, gift of the Barber Asphalt Paving Co.; 6. (L.) Idealized Indus- trial Site, illustrating the close relation among chemical indus- tries. The intermediate plant forms the connecting link between; the products of sulphur, coal, air, salt, etc., and medicines, flavors, perfumes, dyes, war-gasses and explosives. South Wing: Hall of Textiles. A. Cotton: Central Aisle, W. side (first four cases) : a. Manufacture of cotton thread; West Wall cases: b. Cotton ginning; c. Cotton spin- ning; d. Cotton wash fabrics; e. Cotton flannels; f. Hand- block painted chintz; ^Shakespeare Cretonne, the design con- taining 69 English flowers mentioned in Shakespeare's plays and poems; g. Roll printed cotton draperies. B. Wool Textiles: Central Aisle, W. side (5th case et sea.) : a. The crude wool; b. Carding and spinning; c. Mann- OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 335 facture of worsted yarn ; d. Woolen dress goods ; cashmere, batiste, voile, challie, etc.; e. Dress Goods, confmued: pnmella, serge, taffeta, ratine; f. sihetland, Oheviot, zibeline. chinchilla, g. United States Flag made of Panama cloth, h. Steps in production of carded woolen fabrics ; i. Specimens of carded woolen fabrics; j. Spray printing; Fabrics decorated with the airbrush J k. Fabrics decorated by roller printing; 1. Tying and dyeing; m. Wax-resist dyeing; Batik work. C. Silk Textiles : Central Aisle, E. side cases : a. Life history of the silk worm; b. Sericulture as practiced in Japan; c. Raw silk ; d. Spun silk, showing the manufacture of thread from waste silk; e. Cartridge cloth (i. e. S'pim-silk fabrics Uised for bags to hold charge of smokeless powder foe large guns) ; f. Piece-dyed silk stuffs ; g. Dress and lining satins ; h. Skein-dyed silks, Scotch plaids ; i. Warp printing (the pattern is printed on the warp threads, before weaving) ; j. and following cases: Taffeta ^silks, novelty silks, necktie silks, veilings, etc. D. East Wall cases (temporary installation, 1922) ; Col- lection of looms and household implements for spinning, reel- ing and winding; carding machines, etc. South Range, Eastern Section: Textiles, continued. Cen- tral Cases : silk pile fabrics for wraps, trimmings and uphol- stery; textile fur fabrics; crepe-finish cotton cloth; drapery and upholstery fabrics ; cotton pile fabrics ; crepe dress goods (all cotton, cotton and silk, all wool). These exhibits are mainly presented by American manufacturers, whose names are on the cases. Wall Cases : Japanese silk fabrics ; moire silks, etc. ; note especially case at S. E. cor. : *Handicraft work of the Blind ; also E. Wall Case : *Chinese embroideries, including brocaded robe made for the Emperor Hsin Fung, and taken from the Yuen-Ming- Yuen, when that Palace was destroyed by fire in i860, by order of the English and French allies. Southeast Pavilion : Wood Technology : The S. and E. Walls are devoted to specimens of industrial woods in form of polished slabs and planks. Around the balcony railing are a series of pictures in color showing : A. Scenes in Govern- ment Forest Reservations ; B. Typical stages in Lumbering ; C. Forest Industries. The Central Exhibits include: i. Large model, 16x16 ft, showing how the National Forests are administered and used ; the model shows bridges, forest homestead, grazing cattle, hydro-electric power development, summer resorts, etc. 336 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 2. Model showing Turpentine Orcharding and manufacture of gum spirits (iSouthern Yelilow Pine region). 3-7. Cases showing progressive steps in the manufacture of the golf driver, electric sadiron handle, cedar cigar box, baseball bat, tennis racquet, bowling ball and tenpin, 8. Large model show- ing a typical lumber treating process. 9* Large section of heavy oak beam taken from roof of Westminster Hall during recent repairs. The roof was built under the orders of Richard II in 1399, and the oak timbers used (allowing for age of tree) must be at least 1000 years old. The section, presented to the Museum by the British Government exemplifies the durability of British oak, and the beauty of the old craftsman's work. East Range, South Section : Contains exhibits illustrat- ing the development of scientific and industrial instruments : Sextants and compasses; calculating machines; telescopes and microscopes; galvanometers; standards of weights and measures ; typewriting machines ; telegraph and telephone instruments ; gramophones ; clocks, watches, etc. East Wing : Exhibits showing the Evolution of the Rail- way Track; development of the bic3xle ; early specimens of the gasoline automobile, etc. The Central Exhibits include : Cylinder of the Horn- blower engine, the first engine on the western continent, im- ported from England in 1753: the "Stourbridge Lion," built in 1828 for the D. & H. Canal Co. It was the first locomo- tive in the western hemisphere to run upon a railway built for traffic. A placard records that on Aug. 18th, 1829, it was first run on a section of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's road "with good speed, around a curve and across the bridge and up the railroad for about a mile and a half." Diagonally opposite stands another locomotive, the John Bull, built in 183 1 by John Stevenson, Newcastle-on-Tjme. It is the oldest complete locomotive now existing in America. Northeast Paznlion: This Hall, reached from E. Wing, is devoted chiefly to a collection of armor and arms; rifles, revolvers,, muskets, etc. East Range, North Section: History of Water Trans- portation : "Water craft of the world, from the raft to the full-rig