Book' F'a/2 /fr? BLACK'S PICTUEESQUE TOUEIST GF IRELAND llluslraleb foit]^ a gtap d Jrelanb anb st&eral ^platts anb iTietos FIFTEENTH EDITION EDINBURGH ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1877 »^afer WOV 2 182; mi li zz^ BLACK'S ;z-; PICTURESQUE TOURIST OP IRELAND TO TOURISTS. The Editor of BLACK'S GUIDE BOOKS vnU he glad to re- ceive any Suggestions or Notes of Corrections which may occur to Tourists Toaking use of these works. Communications, attested hy the name of the writer^ should be addressed to tlie Fitblishers. CONTENTS. PAiSE General description of Ireland . • . e 1 Dublin City, with plan 9 Wicklow Mountains, . 71 Cork and Queenstown, with plan . 153 Blarney and The Blackwater . 167 Killarney, with plan . . 178 Limerick . . . . , . 230 The Shannon, Lower . . • 234 Clare County . . . , . 237 Galway and Environs . . 263 Connemara .... . 273 Enniskillen and Lough Erne . 311 Belfast and Environs, with plan . . 323 Giant's Causeway and surroundings J, tcith map . 378 Londonderry and Environs . . 397 Donegal Highlands, with map . 404 Index . . . • . . 415 PICTUKESQUE TOUEIST OP lEELAND Situation — ^Name — Extent — General Aspect — Rivers — Lakes — Greology — Climate — Agriculture — Animal Kingdom — Fisheries — Manufactures — Internal Communication — Revenue — Administration — Ecclesiastical Institutions — Educational Institutions — Population. Ireland, a large island, rhomboidal in form, is the western- most of the British Isles, lying between N. lat. 51° 26' — 55° 21', and W. long. 5^ 20' — 10° 26'. It is separated from Britain on the NJE. by the North Channel, about 1 4 miles in width ; on the E, by the Irish Sea, 130 miles broad ; and on the SJE. by St. George's Channel^ about 70 miles in breadth. The island has been called by the natives from the earliest times En, or Erin, signifying " western," and from which most of its other names are derived. Thus, the Greeks knew of it under the name of lema, while Ptolemy and Juvenal called it respectively louema and luvema, hence the corruption Hibemia. Bj the ancient Britons it was called Iverdon, and afterwards named by their Saxon conquerors lerland, or Ireland. The appellation of Scotia, sometimes applied to Ireland, originated in the fourth cen- tury, when it was in common use among the learned, Thia title, however^ properly belongs to Scotland- B 2 IRELAND. Extent. — ^The longest line tliat can be drawn within Ireland measures 304 miles, from KK to S.W., and the greatest width is 194 miles. The area amounts to 20,808,271 acres. Aspect. — The surface of the country is an undultiting plaia, rising in some parts to a considerable elevation, and in others formhig extensive levels, occupied by bogs or moorland. Its scenery is characterised by openness of prospect, beauty, and picturesqueness, but wants in gran- deur. More than half of the land is arable, and about a sixth under plantation, the rest being covered with moor, water, or buildings. There are no hills that could be properly called mountains in Ireland, although some of tliem nearly approach that rank. The highest peaks in the principal ranges are — Carrantual Macgillicuddy Reeks — Kerry , 8414 feet. Lngnaquilla — Wicklow 3039 „ Slieve Donard, Mourne Mountains — Down . 2796 „ Mulrea— Mayo 2688 „ Comeragh— Waterford 2597 „ Errigal— Donegal 2462 „ The coast line of the island exhibits great indentations on its western shores, many of which stretch inland for many miles under the name of loughs. . The interior, moreover, contains several extensive sheets of water, and is traversed by numerous rivers, some of considerable length. EiVERS. — Of these the principal are the Shannon, the Barrow, the Suir, the Lee, the Slaney, the Erne, the Foyle, the Bann, the Blackwaters, the Boyne, and the Liffey. The Shannon, the largest river in the United Kingdom, rises in the western extremity of Cavan county, and takes a gene- rally southern course through Loughs Allen, Eee, and Dearg, until it reaches the sea at Limerick. Its total length is 240 miles, and it is navigable for barges as high up as Lough Allen, only ^\e nules from its source. The Barrow rises, along with its tributary the Nore, in Queen's county, -among the SUevebloom Mountains, and enters IRELAND. Waterford Harbour after a course of 100 miles. The Bovne, historically famous, originates in the central table- land of Leinster, and after a north-western course throws Itself into the Irish Sea at Drogheda. Lakes. — Ireland has long been celebrated for the number and extent of its loughs — no country of Europe, of the same proportions, possessing so large an area occupied by fresh-water lakes. Lough Neagh, in Ulster, is the greatest lake in the United Kingdom, and one of the largest in Europe. It is 14 miles long by 1 1 in breadth, covering an area of 98,255 acres, and its surface is 48 feet above, while its deepest parts are some feet below the sea at low water. Loughs Erne, upper and lower, in Fer- managh county, are two long narrow lakes, thickly dotted with islets, and connected with each other by an expansive river of the same name. The upper lough measures 14 miles in length, and the lower 25 miles in length, by a mean breadth of four miles. Loughs Corrib and Mask, situated in Connaught, are separated from each other by an isthmus about three miles in width. The surface of the former is only 1 4 feet above sea level. The following shews the area of the chief lakes in the country : — Lough Neagh — Ulster 98,255 acres. „ Corrib — Connaught 43,484 „ „ Dearg— :Munster 29,570 „ „ Erne, Lower— Ulster . 28,000 „ „ Mask — Connaught 22,219 „ „ Erne, Upper— Ulster . 9,278 „ „ Killamey (three lakes>-Mur ister . 6,111 „ Geology. — The hill ranges of Ireland consist, for the most part, of the older or primitive rocks, while the great central plain of the country is chiefly formed of calcareous strata. Coal, there is every reason to believe, exists in large quantities, although it is as yet very sparingly worked. The chief fields now being wrought are at Eal- kenny and Carlo w, where the mineral occurs in the state of anthracite. The abundant supply of peat, however, 4 IRELAND. makes up in great measure for the deficiency of coal in the rural districts, wMle the inhabitants of the seaport towns are supplied with coal from Wales and other places. Iron, though it exists in the coal measures, is not in suffi- cient quantity to pay working expenses. Copper and lead are also found, and are mined at six different places, while sulphur is procured in the county Wicklow, and is shipped in the rough state to Wales, where the requisite fuel for its purification is to be had cheaper than in Ireland. Igneous rocks abound in the north of the island, and form, on the Antrim coast, the far-famed Giant's Causeway. Granite, in especial, is abundant in many parts of the country, and at Killiney Hill, near Dublin, is wrought as a building stone. Silurian, and even cambrian strata have been found, the latter containing the fossil Oldhamia, while Devonian is widely distributed. At Kilkenny, the yellowish grey beds of this rock contain ferns {Cyclopteris Hibernica) and fresh- water shells {Anodon Jukesii), The carboniferous limestone likewise abounds in fossils. Climate. — The temperature of Ireland is more equable than that of England or Scotland, the winters being less severe, and the summers not so warm. This dijfference is especially noticeable on the west and southern coasts, where the effects of the Gulf Stream are more immediately felt. The mean annual temperature of the country is stated at from 48° to 50°. The winds are chiefly from the west and south' west, bringing a copious supply of rain. The ave- rage fall in the whole country is computed, by Sir Kobert Kane, at 36 inches per annum. In Cork, the average is 40.20 inches, and at Dublin 30.87. Agriculture.— -Although much improved within a few years back, the agriculture of Ireland is by no means in an advanced state. The humidity of the atmosphere, and equal nature of the temperature, is favourable to the production of grass, which here grows in great luxuriance. The same cause acts prejudicially on the wheat crop. Of cereals those most generally raised are oats and barley. IRELAND. 5 Flax is extensively grown in the north, and the potato is to be found in every district. The fact of so much of the land being in the hands of poor tenants cultivating a farin of from two to ten acres, tends materially to retard the progress of agriculture ; while the carelessness of some of the landlords is another obstacle to the progress of this important branch of industry. Animal Kingdom. — The breeds of domestic animals are now assimilating closely to those of Britain. The little Kerry cow and the Irish deer-hound, the last remaining native breeds, are fast disappearing. Eagles, however, still frequent the rocky summits of the mountains, and the red deer is yet to be found among the sheltered recesses of Killarney. Squirrels are rarely, and moles never met with. Frogs are plentiful, and though the common toad is un- known, the less repulsive naterjack, or yellow-striped toad, occurs in Kerry county. Fisheries. — The shores of Ireland are frequented by vast shoals of fish. Stations are established round the whole coast, which supply the inland markets with abun- dance of fresh cod, haddock, hake, and flat-fish. Herrings are caught on the west coast from Donegal to Cork, on the coast of Wicklow, and on some other parts of the east coast Salmon are abundant in most of the rivers, as well as trout and other fresh-water fish. Lobsters are procured in large quantities on the west shores of Connaught, and sent to the London market. Manufactures. — "WooUens, at one time the staple manufacture of Ireland, are now produced in comparatively small quanties, chiefly for home consumption. Wicklow is the seat of the flannel, and Kilkenny that of the blanket manufacture, while coarse friezes are made throughout the country. Cottons are made in few counties, and employ about 5000 hands. The linen manufacture, however, has now become the most important in Ireland, and is fully developed in the north, especially about Belfast. One company alone employs upwards of 1000 hands, and has 6 IRELAND. about ,£100,000 wortli of flax regularly in course of mani- pulation. In 1866 there were no fewer than 44 mills in the country, with a total of 10,500 power looms at work. Figured muslins are also made to a considerable extent in the north of Ireland, and the Irish poplin manufacture is now assuming an important position. The other articles manufactured here are laces, silks, figiired muslins, gloves, paper, cutlery, glass, pottery, sailcloth, dyes, and chemicals. Porter is extensively brewed in the vicinity of Dublin, and whisky in all parts of the country. Internal Communication. — The roads in Ireland are generally equal to those in England or Scotland, and have the recommendation, that there are few toll-bars. Of canals the most important are — the Grand, passing from Dublin through the county Kildare, thence through King's county to the Shannon, near Banagher, with a continuation to Ballinasloe, and several minor branches ; the Eoyal, through the counties Dublin, Meath, Westmeath, and Longford, to the Shannon at Termononbarry ; and the Ulster, Lough Erne, and Shannon Canal. Railways are every year increasing in extent. The ^Midland Great Western unites Dublin with Galway, running right across the island. The Great Southern and Western brings Cork and Killar- ney within a few hours' distance of the capital ; while I'jimerick, Tipperary, Waterford, Kilkenny, Carlo w, and Kildare, are connected with each other by a united system of railroads. In the north, continuous liaes unite Dublin with Drogheda, Belfast, Coleraine, Londonderry, and Ennis- killen. Value of Property. — The valuation of the property (land and income) in Ireland for the year 1868 was placed at £25,422,000, while in 1858 it stood at £22,555,000, showing an increase of nearly three millions in ten years. The net receipt of the property and income tax in 1870 amounted to £613,000. Administration. — The local government is in the hands of a Lord Lieutenant, appointed by the Crown, and IRELAND. 7 who is assisted by a privy council. In the Imperial Par- liament, Ireland is represented by 105 members, 64 being returned for the counties, 39 for cities and boroughs, and 2 for the university of Dublin. The country is divided into 32 counties, 9 of these forming the province of Ulster, 1 2 that of Leinster, 6 that of Munster, and 5 that of Con- naught. The constabulary force, established by the late Sir Kobert Peel when Secretary for Ireland, consists of 12,000 men, under the superintendence of an Inspector- General, two deputies, and other inferior officers. Eeligion. — The principal Protestant church in Ireland is the English Episcopal, which is superintended by 2 archbishops (Armagh and Dublin), 10 bishops, and 2200 clergy. The Eoman Catholic clergy nimiber about 2300, with 23 bishops and 4 archbishops. The Presb}i:erian chui'ch, influential in the north only, is under the charge of from 600 to 700 clergy. Educational Institutions. — The University of Trinity College, Dublin, is the most important educational institu- tion in Ireland. The Queen's University, consisting of colleges in Belfast, Cork, and Galway, was founded in 1845. These are intended for all religious denominations. Several Eoman Catholic colleges exist, the most important of which are at Maynooth, Dublin, and Tuam. National schools are scattered throughout the whole country, and are steadily disseminating education among the people. Population. — The potato famine of 1845, and the consequent emigration, have told materially on the popu- lation of Ireland. In 1841 there were 8,175,124 souls; in 1851 only 6,551,970; and in 1871,5,402,759. Of this number 4,141,933 were Eoman Catholics, 683,295 Episcopalians, 503,461 Presbyterians, and 74,070 of vari- ous denominations. LANvi^UAGE. — The mass of the Irish people speak the English tongue alone, only a tenth part of the whole popu- lation being able to speak both Gaelic and English, and but a very few knowing Gaelic only. In the south and lEELAND. west tlie latter is mncli more spoken than in the north and east, where it is fast disappearing. The Irish Gaelic or Erse forms a hranch of the Scottish and the Welsh Gaelic, especially resembling the former. The following will be useful in determining the meaning of the most common names in Ireland. AgTh, a field. Ard.y an eminence. At\ a ford. Aun, a river. Bally y a. town. Ban, or Bane, white or fair. Beg, little. Ben, a monntain. Bun, the base or bottom. Car, or Cahir, a city. Carrick, Carrig, Carrow, a rock. Cork, Corcagh, a marsh. Clar, a plain. Croagh, Croghan, a peak. Clogh, Clough, a stone. Curragh, a moor. Clon, a meadow. Col, Cul, a comer. Deargh, red. Derry, an oak grove. Dhu, Dua, black. Don or Dun, a fRstnea;. DonagTi, a church. Drom, a hill-range. Inch, Inis, an island. Ken, a head. Kil, church or bnrying-groTmd. Knock, a hillock. Lick, a fiat stone. Lough, a lake. Magh, a plain. Main, a collection of hillocks. Mor, great. Muck, a sow. Bath, a mound or fort. Ross, a headland, also a wood. S7ia7i, old. Sliehh, a range of mountains. Teach, a house. Temple, a church. Tow, room, a tumulus. Tra, a strand. Tober, Tubher, a well or spring. Tallaghf Tully, & knoiL iMiiUJii wv^ voAxi/vvA vu. Lxic iumr, strcii as v/iiesLex- aiiu the DUBLIN. THE PASSAGE From Holyhead to Kingstown, 63 miles — 4 to 5 hotiTS* sail SevCTal packets each day. Two meet the mail trains daily from Chester. From Liverpool to Dublin, 137 miles— 10 to 12 hours* saiL Several packets sail each day. From Glasgow to Dublin, 223 miles — 18 to 20 hours* saiL Five times a week. From Whitehaven to Dublin calling at the Isle of Man, dependent on weather. From Silloth to Dublin calling at the Isle of Man, dependent on weather. The tourist wlio for tlie first time visits Ireland would do well to land at Dublin, that being the centre point of all the great tonrs throughout the country. The voyage across the Irish Channel from either of the ports above mentioned is generally attended with much of the disagreeable, as the turbulence of the sea there is not surpassed even by the dreaded straits of Dover. The shortest route, therefore, via Holyhead, should always be adopted if possible. By this route Dublin can be reached in eleven hours from London, and eight hours from Manchester. The Holyhead packets land their passengers at Kingstown, only half an hour's distance from the Irish capital, while the Liverpool and Glasgow steamers go direct to the city. If the traveller, moreover, is not in haste, some interesting places can be visited on the road, such as Chester and the 10 DUBLIN. Britannia Bridge, by tlie Holyliead route ; and the firth, of Clyde by tbe steamers from Glasgow. Travelling in Ireland is not quite so expensive as in either of the sister kingdoms, and the railroads are so laid that extensive tours can be taken with great expedition. It is possible for a tourist to go through the length and breadth of the land in ten days, taking hasty views of the chief objects of interest ; although he would find it much more pleasant to attempt less if his time be limited, and rather restrict himself to one part of the island at a time. It is with this consideration that the present work has been divided into four sections, which, though consecutive, are unique in themselves. Eegarding hotels, it is difficult to specify any rule as to the charges in vogue. These naturally vary according to the price of provisions, the locality of the house, and the extent of the tourist season. The following tariff, however, may be given as an indication of the general charges. — Breakfast Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d., dinner 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6d., table d'hote 3s. to 5s., tea Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d., bedroom 2s. to 3s., sitting-room 3s. to 6s., attendance Is. 6d., glass of punch 6d. to 9d., cup of coffee 6ds HOTELS. 11 CITY OF DUBLIN. Hotels. — Shelboume, Stephen's Green. Gresliain, 21 Upper Sackville Street. Morrison's, 1 Dawson Street. Maeken's, 12 Dawson Street. Hibernian, 48 Dawson Street. Imperial, 21 Lower Sackville Street. BHton, 56 Upper Sackville Street. Angel, Inner Quay, near Four Courts. Tarpey's (Family), 6 Nassau Street. Koyal Albert (Family), 3 Dominick Street. Jury's Commereial, 7 College Green. Boyal Arcade, 33 College Green, and 4 Suffolk Street. Trinee of "Wales, 37 Lower Sackville Street. Verdon's, 35 Talbot Street, near Belfast Railway Station. European, 4 Bolton Street. Abbey, 102 Middle Abbey Street. Coffey's, 11 Upper Dominick Street. Dolpliin, 45 East Essex Street Aitken's (Temperance), 34 "Westmoreland Street. Abereorn (Temperance), 1 Great Brunswick Street. Ulster (Temper- ance) and Dining-Rooms, 18 Abbey Street. Kinsley's Bestaurant, 27 St. Andrew Street, and 6 Chui'cb Lane. CENSUS OF DUBLIN IN 1871. Population. Number of Houses. Religion. Males 115,618 Females 130,708 Total 246,326 Pop. in 1861 254,808 Decrease 8482 Inhabited 23,896 Uninhabited. . 1059 Building 87 Total 25,042 Numb, in 1861 24,585 Catholic 195,180 Episcopal .... 39,897 Presbyterian . . 4517 Various 6732 Total 246,326 1 Increase 447 ABSTRACT FROM THE DUBLIN POLICE CARRIAGE REGULATIONS. All complaints of misconduct against owners or drivers are to be preferred to the Magistrates of the Di\dsion in which the complaint may arise, within fourteen days after the offence is committed. SCHEDULE OF RATES AND FARES TO BE PAID FOR ANT HACKNEY COACH. Drawn hy One Horse, hired and taken within the City, Suburhs, and Liberties of Dublin, or within Ten Statute Miles from the General Post Office, Fares within the Borough. 1. For a drive from any place within the Municipal Boundary of Dublin, direct to any other place, without delay, for not more than two persons, each article of luggage 2d. extra — 6d. (between 10 p.m. and 9 a.m., Is.) 12 DUBLIT?* For more than two, and not more than fonr persons, 3 articles of lug- gage — 13. In the latter casCy tTie driver, if required, muit bring the employer back for the same fare, if the delay does not exceed fifteen minutes. ?. Hackney Coaches may be engaged by time, either within or beyond the Municipal Boundary of Dublin, not exceeding the distance of seven Irish miles from the Circular Road, at the rate, for the first hour, of— 2s. (within the borough, Is, 6d.) For every half-hour, commenced after the first hour — 9d. But no Hackney Coach is hound to a time engagement within the Municipal Boundary of Dublin, hey ond five consecutive hours. iPouUe rates charged between 10 p.m. and 9 a.m.] Fares beyond, or partly beyond and partly within the borough. S. For a drive from any place within the Municipal Boundary of Dublin, to any place beyond the same, or for a drive entirely outside of the same» and in both cases returning with the employer, provided there be not a delay of more than thirty minutes— for every statute mile actually tra- velled with the employer— 6d. For the same, but not returning with the employer — ^for every statute mile actually travelled with the employer — 6d. For every half mile (statute measure) commenced after the first mile, one-half of the above rates, in either of the two cases immediately pre- ceding. 4. Employers detaining Hackney Coaches in waiting beyond 30 minutes, to pay for every J of an hour of such further detention— 3d. Hackney Coaches are not hound to go heyond 7 miles from Circular Road, and the driver expects 2d. or M. a mile extra when heyoiid the horough. Other Regulations enact, that the driver can claim an hour's fare in ad- vance in cases of hour hiring ; that if unemployed on stand, road, street, or passage, he shall not refuse a hire ; that, when hired, he shall not delay, loiter, or fail to perform services for which he has been employed ; that he must travel at the rate of five miles per hour at least ; that all licensed Hackney Coaches shall be kept clean and dry, and in good and perfect repair, as also the braces, harness, and tackling used with the same. Tramway Cars run from the General Post Olffice, Sackville Street, to the Exhibition Palace and close to the King's Bridge terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway. They also run to the eastern and southern suburbs of the town. SITUATION, AND Preliminary Observations. — Dublin is situated on the banks of the river Liffey, which, running from west to east, divides it into two nearly equal parts. After leaving the town, the river expands into a PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 13 noble bay, whicb is guarded on the one side by tbe hill of Howth, and on the other by Ealliney hill, near KingstowTi. The river is navigable as far as Carlisle Bridge, in the centre of the town, but the heavier vessels seldom pass above the Custom-House. A serious impediment to the navigation of the river used to exist in the sliape of a sand-bar at the entrance of the harbour, but of late years this has been removed, so that large ships can now enter. Dublin con- tains many fine buildings, which will be described in their proper place, and is the seat of a university, as well as of the higher courts of law. It is well supplied vrith places of worship of every denomination, and for the recreation of the citizens has a beautiful public park, situated within a short distance of the town, besides botanic gardens, museums, a picture gallery, and theatres. The town is not famed for any particular branch of trade, while its export traflO-C is at present insignificant. Those trades, however, connected with articles of apparel and common consump- tion are in a thri^dng condition. The manufacture of poplin, which had shewn symptoms of decline, seems to have revived again, especially after the stimulus given it by the exhibitions of 1851 and 1853. It was about the year 1780 that the trade first assumed a degree of import- ance in Dublin, though it had been introduced by the French Huguenots in the reign of William III. From that period till the Union, in 1800, it had been gradually in- creasing in extent ; but suddenly declined after the trans- ference of the Irish Parliament to London ; and Iiishmen are fain to link the two events together as cause and effect. At the present day the entire number of Jacquard looms at work in Dublin is about 200. That portion of the town known as the Liberties, and generally shunned by the tourist on account of its desolation, was the former seat of the silk trade. " At the time of the Union," we are told, " and for some years afterwards, the Liberties presented sl, scene like the business part of Manchester. Fully forty thousand people lived by the employment given there." 14 DUBLIN. PRINCIPAL SIGHTS. The objects of interest in Dublin will be notiped in their order dtLring the Walks ; but it is thought expedient to select the chief of them for the use of tourists who may have no time for the prescribed routes, and care little for the objects of minor interest within the city. Those who have not much time to spare are recommended to hire a car for three or four hours, and they will find the carman very ready in giving descriptions. I. Bank of Ireland. 2. Trinity College. 3. Dublin Castle. 4. Christ's Church Cathedral. 5. Cathedral of St. Patrick. 6. General Post-Office. 7. Nelson's Monument. 8. Custom-House. 9. Four Courts. 10. Phoenix Park. [These numbers also correspond with the figures in the Plan.'] 1. THE BANK OF IRELAND, in College Green, for- merly used as the Parliament House, occupies tlie site of a building which was begun early in the seventeenth cen- tury by the then High Treasurer, Sir G. Carey, and cost the sum of X4000. Originally intended for an hospital, it became successively the seat of justice and a mansion. The present building was commenced in 1729 and com- pleted in 1787, costing altogether the sum of <£95,000, The company of the Bank of Ireland, however, purchased it in 1802 for the sum of £40,000, and an annual rent of <£240. The plan of the building may be more advan- tageously studied from a beautiful model shewn within than from any external view which can be obtained. It is somewhat semicircular in shape, with a beautiful colonnade of Ionic columns facing College Green, and portico in the centre, in the tympanum of which is placed the Royal Arms, appropriately surmounted by emblematical figures of Hibernia, Commerce, and Fidelity. The entrance to the former House of Lords was by a portico on the eastern side, the columns presentmg the anomaly of the Corinthian order. The figures here are Fortitude, Liberty, and Jus- tice. The western entrance, like the colonnade, is in the . Ionic style of architecture. The beautiful quadrangular apartment, now used as the cash-office, was erected by the Bank authorities upon the site of the House of PRmCIPAL SIGHTS. 15 Commo7is, whicli was a large room of an oval shape. The House of Lords, to which visitors are admitted, remains unaltered, save that the site of the throne is now occupied by a statue of King George III. The chairs are in their places, the long table in the centre, and the old tapestry still hanging on the walls. This has on the left a representation of King William crossing the Boyne, with poor Schomberg expiring almost under his horse's feet ; and on the right the Siege of Derry. Both pieces of needlework are in excellent preservation. The mantel-piece in this room is deserving of notice, being formed of dark Kilkenny marble, beautifully sculptured. Various other rooms, formerly used as committee-rooms, are now occupied for business purposes. Before leaving, the attendant will show the model of the building ; and by application to the secretary, visitors may inspect the print- ing of the bank notes, an interesting operation. 2. TRINITY COLLEGE is situated immediately oppo- site the Bank. In the year 1311, Pope Clement V. granted a bull to John Leek, Archbishop of Dublin, to erect a university, which, however, was not acted upon ; and not until his successor, A. de Bicknor, obtained a simi- lar authority from Pope John XXII., were statutes drawn up, and a college founded. Like most other institutes of learning. Trinity College was closed in the time of Henry VIII., again to be opened in the reign of his daughter Elizabeth, who erected it into a corporation, consisting of a provost, three fellows, and three scholars, designating it by the name of the " College of the Holy and Indivisible Trinity, near Dublin." In 1627 a new code of laws was framed, by which the number of fellows was fixed at seven, of scholars at twenty, and of probationer fellows at nine. During and after the civil wars of the protectorate, the college fell to a very low ebb, but was brought again to a flourishing condition with the return of royalty to the throne. J«mes I. and Charles XL befriended the college, endowing 1 6 DUBLIN. it with lands in Ulster and other parts. Several private individuals have also made liberal bequests ; among others, those of Erasmus Smith are deserve'dly esteemed, seeing that no less than five professorships have been endowed from the sums left by him. The instruction is carried on by means of lectures and periodical examinations, though the details of literary and scientific educations are intrusted to the eighteen junior fellows, who are elected to their honour- able post after a strict examination. The external fa9ade of the College is, though plain, very beautiful ; it is built of Portland stone, and in the Corinthian style, measuring 300 feet in length. The central part is ornamented with tall columns, let into the wall, and supporting an elegant pediment. This portion, to which visitors are admitted on presenting their card, is The Museum, a collection which, though small, is creditable to all concerned, and especially to the late Dr Robert Ball. At the entrance bronze statues of Goldsmith and Burke, by Foley, have been recently erected. They are both admirable works of art, and contrast favourably with the statue of Moore in College Street. The collection of Irish birds is very fine, the specimens being in good condition, and the series all but complete. Among them may be observed with interest the golden eagle, the erne, the spotted eagle, and a vulture, all shot in the south of Ireland. Some of the specimens originally preserved here were removed' to the Geological Museum situate at another part of the building. The other departments are also de- serving of notice, especially the antiquities, which include the old charter horn of King O'Kavanagh, and an ancient Irish harp, said to have been that of Brien Boroimhe. First Court- Yard. — The building on the right, with the portico of four Corinthian pillars, is the examination- hall, the scene of many a severe ordeal. Internally it is decorated with portraits of illustrious characters, some of them originally students of the College — the sarcastic Dean Swift, Bishop Berkeley, Archbishop King, and Lord Oriel, TRINITY COLLEQE. 17 being among the number. Every artist lias heard of Hewitson's noble monument, executed by him at Rome, to the memory of Provost Baldwin, a liberal benefactor to the College, who died in 1758. This monument, which is placed on the west wall of the room, is composed of black and white marble, with the addition of Egyptian porphyry. It is emblematical, and represents the provost in a reclining position, with an angel at his feet holding a palm branch, while the genius of the university bends over him. Eight opposite the examination-hall, on our left, as we enter the quadrangle, is a building of similar style, used as the chapel. Internally it resembles the last building as regards decorations, though the different purpose of the building necessarily requires a somewhat different arrange- ment. Further on, on the same side, is the Dining Hall or Refectory, containing portraits of Grattan, Lord Avonmore, Lord Chief Justice Downs, Hussey Burgh, Henry Flood, Lord Kilwarden, and Frederick Prince of Wales, the father of George III. Here a range of build- ings formerly divided this quadrangle into two, and in one of the rooms the author of the " Deserted Yillage " resided, when he was wont to dispense his willing but often ill judged charities. A handsome granite bell-tower in the middle of the quadi'angle, ornamented by four statues typifying Divinity, Medicine, Law, and Science, was erected at the sole cost of the late Primate Beresford. The Library occupies the entire south side of what used to be the second quadrangle, 270 feet in length. It is entitled by law to a copy of every work published in Great Britain, and contains upwards of 200,000 volumes. The east end contains a valuable collection of books, known as the Fagel Library, consisting of 18,000 volumes. Many valuable manuscripts are likewise contained in the library, among which there is a Latin copy of the Gospels, known as the Book of Kells, and attributed to Saint Columba, who lived in the sixth century. The Geological Museum and Lecture Rooms. This c 1 8 DUBLIN. building stands in the College Park. Its style of architec- ture is wholly different from that of the other parts of the College, being Lombardo-Yenetian, erected after the designs of Messrs. Deane and "Woodward. The building is of granite, the dressings and string courses being of Portland stone, elaborately carved. The building is quite a museum of ornament, so great is the variety and richness of its decoration. The entrance hall is extremely beautiful ; and the pillars which support the lobbies, being native marble, cannot fail to attract the tourist. Another quadrangle is situated to the north of the first.* The surrounding ground is known as the College Park, which is chiefly used by the students as a place of recreation, in which cricket and other athletic sports are carried on. In College Green is an equestrian statue in lead of William III., erected in 1701. The figures are bronzed and gilt, presenting rather an imposing appearance. We now proceed up Dame Street. 3. THE CASTLE OF DUBLIN is by no means an imposing structure when viewed from the street, wanting as it does the stern rocky base of Edinburgh or Stirling Castle, and the romantic situation or architectural gran- deur of many of the Irish forts. Originally built for the defence of the peaceable inhabitants of the town against ihe aggressions of their unruly neighbours, nothing seemed to have been attended to in its construction but strength. Of late a great many alterations have been made to suit it to the requirements of the age, so that we cannot now judge of its original appearance. Leaving the guides to point out the Bedford Tower, the Birmingham Tower, and other objects of interest, we will walk into The Yiceregal Chapel, a building not without ex- ♦ The Historical Society's Library, No. 27 Trinity College, is in connec- tion with the Oxford and Cambridge Union Club, the members of which axe entitled to access to the reading rooms. In the Geological Museum there are two fine specimens of the male ana female Irish Elk, which have been dug out of the bogs ram UASTLE OF DUBLIN. 19 temal beauties and decorations, thongli plain enougii to be passed over by the cursory traveller. The chapel is used by the Lord Lieutenant for the time being and his house* hold. It is elaborately ornamented with oak carvings. Round the gallery are the arms of Lord Lieutenants from 1173 to 1814 ; while those of a later date are emblazoned on either side of the altar. A new handsome pulpit, the gift of the late Lord Carlisle, has lately been erected at the north-east side, and is entered from one of the pilasters, no staircase being visible from the chapel. The groining of the roof and capitals of pilasters exhibit rich mouldings in stucco : while each corbel springs from a figure of a human head. Over the altar window, which is of painted glass, representing the Passion, are figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. On the windows and doors outside are heads, amounting to the number of one hundred and three. Over the east door are St. Patrick and Brian Boroimhe, the latter of whom is looked upon as the Wallace of L:eland, though to the patriotic he added the character of a usurper. The chapel was opened in 1814. The attendant here ex- pects a small gratuity. The Viceregal Apartments are easily found, and readily sheAvn to the visitor — of course on the understand- ing that a fee repays the attention of the cicerone. You enter under a Doric colonnade, and by the grand staircase, into the presence chamber, an ornamented hall containing the throne of the representative of monarchy, which, as well as the hangings, is richly embroidered with gold. St. Patrick's Hall, or the Ball-Eoom, is a spacious apartment appropriately ornamented. The empanelled ceiling bears in its centre a large allegorical painting of George IIL, supported by Justice and Liberty. The other two represent on the one side St. Patrick preaching to the native Irish, and on the other the submission of the Celtic chiefs to Henry II. — a subject by no means palatable to the tastes of " Young Ireland." The Council Chamber contains portraits, some ol 20 DUBLIN* them admirable, of all the Viceroys since the UnioHj beginning with the Marquis Cornwallis in 1800. The Private Drawing-Eoom, with its magnificent furniture, its mirrors and marble tables, is worthy of a visit, as also the Billiard Room, from which a fine view of the court-yard is obtained. Various government offices are situated within the Castle. 4. CHRIST'S CHUECH CATHEDRAL, sometimes styled the Church of the Holy Trinity. According to the " Black Book of Christ's Church," its vaults were formed by the Danes before the visit of St. Patrick to Ireland, who afterwards celebrated mass in one of them. The church, however, as it now stands, is of comparatively modern date. It seems to have been first erected in 1038, and to have been subsequently enlarged by Lawrence O'Toole, who in 1163 changed the canons, originally secular, into canons regular of the order of Arras ; then by Strongbow and Fitzstephen, and later still by Raymond le Gros, who added the choir, steeple, and two smaller chapels. John Comyn rebuilt the church in 1190; and about 1360 John de St. Paul erected the chancel. This '3hurch was made the repository for various relics, and, among others, the shrine of St. Cubie, stolen by the people Df Dublin from the Welsh. So high was the sanctity of this church held, that pilgrims to its shrine enjoyed the rights of sanctuary in Dublin during their stay. Many of the relics were publicly destroyed in the sixteenth century ; and with them St. Patrick's staff, which was committed to the flames. It was in this cathedral that the church liturgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. In 1553, by order of Queen Mary, the mass was again per- formed in the cathedral, and continued for six years, when the reformed style of worship was finally restored. The cathedral is built in the form of a cross ; the transept has lately undergone rejDair, and looks fresh again ; while the choir has also been fitted up with stalls for the dean and CATHEDRAL OF ST. PATRICK. 21 prebendaries. Among tlie monumental tombs in the cathedral, that reputed to belong to Earl Strongbow is deserving of notice. It represents that powerful warrio/ in a recumbent position clothed in mail, with Eva, his wife, by his side. The female figure, however, is defaced. Some doubts are entertained of the authenticity of the figure of Strongbow, it being affirmed that it represents the Earl of Desmond, Lord Chief Justice, who was conspired against by those who looked with jealousy on his kindness to the Irish people, and beheaded at Drogheda in 1467 It is stated that Sir Henry Sidney had it removed to its present position in 1569. Various other monuments of superior beauty and interest, if not of like antiquity, will attract the visitor, not the least poetic of which is the figure of a child on the monument of the late Dr. Abbot of Dublin. This place of worship is a great attraction to those fond of the display of a cathedral service, which is performed every Sunday at eleven o'clock by a full choir. The restoration of the building is due to the liberality of Henry Koe, distiller, who expended £200,000 upon the work. 5. CATHEDRAL OF ST. PATRICK.— The venerable St. Patrick erected a place of worship near the well in which he baptised his converts. This was on the site of the pre- sent cathedral. That the original pile existed for a period of years is attested by the fact that in 890, being four centuries and a half later, Gregory of Scotland, with his followers, attended worship in it. The present building was begun by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and was much added to and decorated by Archbishop Minot, who held the see of Dublin in 1370. This was rendered the more necessary by the accidental destruction of a great portion of the pile by fire in 1362. The present steeple, built in the lancet style, is of this later date. The cathedral is cruciform, consisting of nave, transepts, choir, and lady chapeL Many monuments decorate the interior of this cathedral. In the chancel is a tablet to the memory of the Duke of 22 DUBLIN. Schomberg, with an inscription by Swift, once Bean of the cathedral. The monnment at the western door, to Boyle, Earl of Cork, in 1639, is one claiming attention from its cumbersome and singular design. It consists of black marble, decorated with wood' carving, gilding, and paint- ing, and represents the Earl and his lady in recumbent positions, surrounded by their children, sixteen in number. In close proximity are two marble slabs, which mark the resting-places of Dean Swift, and Mrs. Hester Johnston, the "Stella" of his poetry. The cathedral has been THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE. 23 entirely restored, since 1860, at tlie sole cost of the late Sir B. L. Guinness, the celebrated brewer, who expended up- wards of £140,000 upon it. To judge of the magnitude of this work, the building must have been seen in its former state. We may, however, enumerate the principal repairs and renovations carried out by this liberal public benefactor. All the walls on the outside have been newly faced ; several of the flying buttresses and pinnacles rebuilt ; two new porches constructed, and the tower and spire thoroughly repaired from the summit to the base- ment. In the inside, the crumbling walls of the nave and south transept have also been rebuilt, and the ceiling groined. The north transept, which was formerly used as a parish church, has been rebuilt, and the partitions, which separated both transepts and the nave from the choir, been removed, thus opening the entire building for the purposes of worship. The floor of the whole has been excavated, and thorough drainage secured by sewers and a deep bed of shingle, over which a beautiful native flagging has been laid. A fine organ has been placed at the right of the communion-table, and the principal windows filled with stained glass. A new pulpit was erected by Sir B. L. Guinness as a memorial of his friend the late Dean Pakenham. The Lady Chapel, which was rebuilt by Dean Pakenham, was used by George lY. as chapter-house for the knights of St. Patrick. It was formerly used as a church for French Protestants. The musical ability of the choir is deservedly of high repute. 6. THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE is a building of considerable beauty. Its front presents an imposing portico supported by six fluted Ionic columns, and surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity. 7. NELSON'S MONUMENT (6d. charged for ascend- ing), a tall fluted column, 121 feet high (exclusive of the statue), stands beside the post-office. The whole erection 24 DUBLIN. cost the sum of £6856, raised bj public subscription among tbe Irish admirers of the Trafalgar hero. The statue, which stands thirteen feet in height, is a beautiful specimen of art, and is from the studio of a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk. On a fine clear day the visitor would do well to ascend to the safely -railed summit of the monu- ment, from which a most extensive and delightful prospect may be obtained, embracing a panoramic view of the city and surrounding country, from the Moume Mountains'^ in the county Down on the north, to the Wicklow Mountains on the south ; the plains of Meath and Kildare on the west, parted by the Dublin Hills and Dublin Bay, and a wide expanse of sea to the eastward. 8. CUSTOM-HOUSE.— The outline of this structure is quadrangular, each side being highly and appropriately decorated. The principal front faces the river. In the centre is a tetrastyle portico supporting a neat pediment, in the tympanum of which is a fine allegorical composition, representing Britannia and Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchantmen approaching, and Neptune driving away famine and despair. An attic storey rises behind the pediment, and on this are placed, right above the Doric columns of the portico, colossal statues of Navigation, Wealth, Commerce, and Industry. The wings are con- nected with the centre by arcades, and are surmounted by the arms of Ireland. We pass round the west side of the building to the north face, which has also a portico of four columns of the Doric order ; they are, however, elevated on a flight of steps, which adds not a little to their beauty. The entablature is here decorated with well designed figures representative of Europe, Asia, America, and Africa. A dome, in the style of that on Greenwich hospital, rises above the building to the height of some 120 feet, and bears on its summit a statue of Hope, sixteen feet high. ♦ These are only visible in peculiar states of the atmosphere. THE FOUR COURTS. 25 Tliis extensive building is net entirely occupied with excise and customs business, but contains many govern- ment and even civil offices of tbe Board of Public Work, and of the Poor Law Commission. The building of the structure occupied ten years, and with the subsequent en- largements and fittings cost fully haK a million of money. 9. THE FOUE COUETS, so termed from the Courts of Queen's Bench, CTiancery, Exchequer, and Common Pleas, being situated within one building, form a magni- ficent pile of building situated on Inns Quay. The pre- sent structure was commenced on the site of a decayed Dominican monastery in 1776, by Llr, Cooley, architect, who, previous to his death, gave over the task to James Gandon, by whom it was finished in 1800, just in time to see the union of the two nations. The cost was estimated at £200,000. The fagade facing the river is 450 feet in length. In the central portion of the building are the foui courts, while the two wings contain the various offices con- nected with them. A handsome Corinthian portico of six columns occupies the centre, and over it rises a finely pro- portioned pediment, bearing on its upper angle a colossal statue of Moses ; the other angles bear like statues of Mercy and Justice ; and on the comers are statues emble- matical of Wisdom and Authority. Behind this pediment rises the lofty dome, surrounded with columns, with win- dows between them. The great hall is circular, and 64 feet in diameter ; and serves as a common hall, with exits to the different special courts. It is illuminated by jets of gas, issuing from a torch borne in the hands of a colossal statue of Truth. Another statue, that of Sir M. O'Loghlen by McDowell, is worthy of notice. The new buildings at the end of the four courts are for the accom- modation of the Landed Estates Court. 10. PHCENIX PAEK is the Hyde Park of Dublin. It covers an area of upwards of 1750 statute acres, and is well planted with timber, though probably inferior in this respect to Kensington Gardens. Deer are plentifiil, and, 26 DUBLIN. as in other extensive grounds where they are frequently caressed by visitors, very tame and docile. The first object which attracts our notice on entering the Park is the obelisk to our left — The Wellington Testimonial, erected in 1817 by his fellow-townsmen of Dublin, to testify their great esteem for him as a military commander. The cost of it was .£20,000. The form is a quadrangular truncated obelisk, and the substance is Wicklow granite. Sunken panels are on each side of the pedestal, containing relievos in metal, representing military pieces, and — that on the south side — the hero himseK, being crowned with laurel. Up the four sides of the obelisk are inscribed the battles of the iron Duke. Commencing with the west side, we have Conangeel, Poonah, Amednagur, Assays, Argaum, Gawilyhctr, Monkaseer ; on the north side, Talavera, TUENTES d'OnOR, CiUDAD RODRIGO, B AD AJOS, SaLAMANCA, ViTTORIA, Pyrenees ; on the south side, Rolica, Vimiera, Oporto, Bus a go, Torres Vedras, Redinha, Sabugal ; on the east, Bidassoa, Nivelle, Nive, Adour, Orthes, Tarbes, Toulouse. The sculptures were aU executed by Irish artists, and the metal cast from cannon taken in battle. The Carlisle Memorial Statue, which is placed in the " People's Park," is a successful work of art by Foley. It commemorates the Lord-Lieutenancy of the late Lord Carlisle, who for six years acted in that capacity. To the right, near the entrance of the Park, will be seen the Military Hospital, with a fine granite front orna- mented with a clock tower and cupola. The situation is high and healthy, and the internal arrangements good. A little further on, on the same side, is the Constabulary Barrack, where each member of the corps spends a portion of his time in training in the use of arms and other military exercises, subsequent to enlist- ment. The building is plain, but ample and commodious. Continuing our walk in the Park, we obtain a view of the viceregal lodge, the summer residence of the Lord- Lieutenant. The Zoological Garden (admission one shilling ; on Sunday a penny). The ^ound occupied by the garden is large, and from its undulating nature affords many advan- FIRST WALK. 27 tages for landscape gardening. Tlie collection of animals, though not very extensive, is of an interesting character. Wolves, such as formerly infested Ireland, bears, leopards, pumas, jaguars, hysenas, bisons, llamas, and various species of deer, are kept here, together with an assemblage of those amusing little gentry the monkeys. Shortly after entering, the student of ornithology will find a treat in a large cage, containing a whole colony of white-tailed eagles. This bird is by no means uncommon in Ireland, where it breeds in the neighbourhood of the sea or lakes, and feeds on fish or birds. Another bird, a native of Ireland, is the moor buzzard, of which a fine specimen is here. The golden eagle is frequently seen in the county Kerry, though becoming rarer with the progress of civilization ; fine young and adult specimens are in the gar- den. It is much more majestic in appearance than the erne or white-tailed eagle. In one of the buildings are a number of aquatic vivaria, so dis- posed in the wall as to appear to the visitor to be so many animated pictures, the plants and rocks forming the landscape, among which the fiah are seen disporting themselves. FIRST WALK. Sackville Street. Post Office ; Nelson's Column. Carlisle Bridge View of Custom House and Shipping. Westmoreland Street. BanK of Ireland. Trinity College. Statue of William III. Dame Street. Commercial Buildings. City Hall. Castle Street. Castle ; Christ s Church, Nicholas Street. St. Patrick Street. St. Patrick's Cathedral. Kevin Street. Upper Kevin Street. Cuff Street. St. Stephen's Green. Statue of George II. in centre. West Side. Surgeon's Hall. North Side. United Service Club ; St. Stephen's Club ; Palace of Archbishop of Dublin ; University Club ; Shelbourne Hotel. East Side. Irish Industrial Museum ; St. Vincent's Hospi- tal. Kildare Street. Merrion Row. Birth-place of Wellington. Merrion Square. South. Residence of late D. O'ConnelL West. Site of Industrial Exhibition of 1853. Lower Merrion Street. West- LA.ND Row. St. Andrew's Roman Catholic Chapel. Terminus of Kingstown Railway. Great Brunswick Street. Clarence Street. Sir John Rogerson's Quay. Sailor's Home. Cross by Ferry to — Docks. Custom-House. Beresford Place. Lower Abbey Street. Mechanics' Institution. Royal Hibernian Academy. THE GENERAL POST OFFICE, in SackviUe Street, situated as it is in the centre of the city, is an object likely to be visited by all tonrists, whether for business or curio- sity, and from it we propose to start (page 23). 28 DUBLIN. Leaving Nelson's Monument (page 23) on our left, and turning our face towards tlie river, we walk down Sackville Street, admiring its width/ and the splendour of its shops, until we reach the site of the new O'Connell statue. CAELISLE BRIDGE, so caUed in honour of Lord Carlisle, who was viceroy at the time when the bridge was commenced in 1782. It is the lowermost of the eight bridges which span the river here, is built of stone, sup- ported on three arches, and surmounted by a handsome balustrade. From the centre of this bridge is obtained one of the most interesting views within the city. Turning round, we look up Sackville Street, with the Nelson column rising boldly in the middle of it, with the fa9ade of the Post Office on the left and the corner of the Rotunda in view ; on the other side the eye may run up either Westmoreland or D'Olier Street. Looking up the latter, we catch sight of Trinit}^ College, and the ancient Parliament House, now the Bank of Ireland. Then turning towards the stream, we have on the right the Four Courts, and beyond, the Wellington obelisk, situated in Phcenis Park ; while on the left, in the distance, is the elegant granite-built terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway. The only sights looking down the river are, the Custom-House on the left, and the shipping. Continuing our walk southwards, we pass through Westmoreland Street, at the east side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore. THE BANK OF IRELAND (page 14) on right, and TRINITY COLLEGE (page 15) on the left. Leaving the College, we proceed west through College Green and Dame Street, passing the Statue of William HI., noticed before. In the latter street, on the right, we come upon the COMIVIERCIAL BUILDINGS, a granite erection of three $toreys, designed by E. Parke in 1796, and finished in FIRST WALK. 29 1799. A handsome room, on the left of the entrance, is designated the Chamber of Commerce, and is nsed by the merchants of the city. Visitors are freely admitted. Further on, on the opposite side, is the CITY HALL, with Hogan's statue of O'Connell in front. It faces Parliament Street, and is entered by a flight of steps, and ornamented by a balustrade. The pediment is supported by six well-proportioned columns and pilasters. The western front faces Castle Street, and is in the same style as the northern. The east side, however, is without columns, while a dome rises from the roof. The interior is fitted up in a very superior style. Fluted columns sup- port a roof in the shape of a cylindrical lantern, which gives light and grace to the whole. The hall contains a celebrated statue in marble of Grattan, by Chantrey, with the appropriate inscription, FILIO OPTIMO CARISSIMO HENRICO GRATTAN PATRIA NGN INGRATA 1829. besides others of George III. by Van Nost, and Thomas Drummond, once chief secretary to Ireland, by Hogan, a notable Irish sculptor. Turning into Castle Street, we at once reach the gates of the CASTLE OF DUBLIN (page 18). Continuing our walk along Castle Street and Christ Church Place, we come to CHEIST'S CHTJECH (page 20), on right. Leaving this building, we walk through Nicholas Street to St. Patrick's, where, surrounded by wretched buildings, low huxter-shops, and stalls with putrid eels, stands the ancient CATHEDKAL OF ST. PATEICK (page 22), on left. 30 DUBLIN. Passing up Kevin Street, Upper and Lower, we may turn to the left, a little way into Aungier Street, where at No. 12 we find a queer-looking old house, rejoicing in the honour of being the birth-place of Moore. In this house the Bard of Erin was born on the 28th of May 1780. Kis first published production was a sonnet, written in his fourteenth year, addressed to his schoolmaster Mr. Samuel White. White was also the teacher of Sheridan. Taking away with us a mental photograph of the classical grocery establishment^ let us return to Kevin Street and continue our walk up Cuffe Street until we enter, at its south-west corner, STEPHEN'S GEEEN, a square laid out in grass plots and clusters of trees and shrubs. The houses surrounding it are among the finest in the city. Turning to the left we proceed half-way along the west side, and there meet The Eoyal College of Surgeons, No. 123, a decorated building erected in 1806-1825, the architects being E. Parkes and W. Murray. On the pediments are statues of Minerva, Hygeia, and Esculapius. The Museum is the chief attraction here, and to it admission may be gained by any respectable visitor, reserving to himself the liberty of presenting a gratuity or not to the porter. The first room of the museum contains a good osteological collection, in- cluding skeletons of elephants, deer, bears, elk, dogs, mon- keys, etc. A simple group in one of the lower cases will attract attention from its singularity, and excite a little sympathy where it would least be expected. Many years ago an Italian visited Dublin as an itinerant musician, accompanied by a greyhound and a monkey, whose per- formances soon became the wonder of the town. The mon- key would smoke a pipe, beat a drum, or ride a steeple- chase on the back of his companion. But the dog at length died, and poor jacko took it so much to heart, that he would mount no other charger, nor would he even console himseK with a whiff of tobacco, but died in the course of FIRST WALK. 31 tliree days after the demise of his canine friend. Both feU into the hands of the College of Surgeons, and their skele- tons now form the equestrian group alluded to. A gallery of this room contains specimens only interesting to the student of comparative anatomy. Notice may, however, be called to a stuffed Bengal tiger at the foot of the stairs, the ground colour of which is a rich deep brown. Attached to this college are lecture and demonstrating rooms, and private museums for the benefit only of students. The course of study prescribed is liberal, and the examinations rigid."^ The Board Room has a chastely-moulded roof, ample windows, and contains portraits of Drs. Eennie, Hawthorn, and Collis. Prom the windows a view of the Green is obtained, with an equestrian Statue of George II. in its centre, the work of Van Nost. Turning to the south side of the square, we pass the Catholic University and its chapel, a brick -building ■ — the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin — and the Shel- bourne Hotel. A statue to the late Earl of Eglinton, formerly Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, is erected within the railings of this side of the square. On the east side, No. 51, is The Eoyal College of Science, an institution for the instruction of teachers and others in industrial science. The building contains a library and an interesting museum. A fine series of Irish marble panels ornaments the entrance hall ; while collections of building stones, chiefly Irish, are preserved in cases in the rooms, as well as articles used in the manufacture of pottery, colours, metallic sub- stances, and textile fabrics. The stages of manufacture are illustrated by characteristic specimens. St. Vincent's Hospital, Nos. 56 and 57, is an iastitu- tion of a most estimable kind, carried on by the Sisters of Charity. We now turn up Earlsfort Terrace, and make for * The Albert Hall, containing a bust of the late Prince, is situate behind the building. 32 DUBLIN. DUBLIN EXHIBITION PALACE AND WINTER GARDEN. {Earlsfort Terrace') The Exhibition Palace, purchased by Sir Arthur and Mr. E. C. Gninness, in order to devote it to the public benefit, is composed of an iron and glass, and a permanent building containing a large concert-hall to accommodate 3000 persons, the entire end of which opens into the glass building, affording unlimited accommodation. There is also a smaller concert-hall seated for 1500 persons ; a lecture- hall to hold 500 ; a practice-room for a large orchestra ; The dining-room is 107 feet in length by 30 feet in width ; and there are also extensive picture-galleries, constructed, on the most improved principle. The Grand Entrance is in the centre of the building, approached from Earlsfort Terrace. The hall, of consider- able size, which has its floor laid with encaustic tiles, forms a permanent sculpture court. On entering, the cascade at the end of the pleasure-gardens is seen in the distance from the hall, which, with its Caen stone columns with carved capitals, and those of the picture-gallery, form a very effective design. In the centre of the glass building is an elegant fountain with groups of figures, representing Leinster, Munster, Ulster, and Connaught. At the southern end is a picturesque grotto fountain, surmounted by a figure of Erin, and most natural in its construction, beautifully covered with plants of varied description. The main glass building has been tastefully planted and laid out with beds for flowers. There is a wide gallery continued all round, 1094 feet in length, and balcony overlooking the terrace and pleasure grounds. This portion of the building, and the Leinster Hall, which forms a wing, are devoted to the exhibition of manufactures, etc. In the permanent build- DUBLIN INDUSTRIAL EXHIi -t-H-H-^ CARRIAGE EA>(tl.S FORT ION PALACE— GROUND PLAN. FIRST WALKr 33 ing a Loan Musenm of Art Treasures is established on a system similar to that of South Kensington, comprising — ancient and modern paintings, sculpture, curiosities, and articles of artistic and historic interest ; it is supported by a most influential committee under the presidency of the Duke of Leinster, and supplies a desideratum long felt in Ireland. It was here that the Dublin Exhibition of 1872, of arts, industries, and manufactures took place, occupying the whole of this building, and contained, besides the Loan Museum, a Ncitional Portrait Gallery, comprising portraits of distinguished persons, either Irish by birth or connected with the public transactions of Ireland. The success achieved by the exhibition was very great, and it has no doubt had a most beneficial effect upon Irish art and manufacture. The attendance in comparison to the popidation, was, by far, greater than that of the London International Exhibition. The ornamental Pleasure Grounds have been laid out in raised and sunk terraces. There are three main ave- nues, serpentine avenues, archery grounds, a maze, and a cascade waterfall, and fountains with figure groups. The grounds extend to about 15 acres, and are planted with trees and shrubs of every description. Besides the permanent exhibition of arts and manufac- tures, occasional flower-shows, etc., and at intervals grand musical entertainments of a high class, both vocal and instru- mental, are held in the building. The corridors through- out the building are exceedingly spacious, and encircle the concert-halls, aflbrding easy access to any part. The build- ing is open daily, and on certain evenings of the week -, the ordinary admission is one shilling. The building is under the management of Sir Edward Lee, director, and Alfred Emden, Esq., secretary. In front of the building there is a colonnade of consider- able length, enabling a number of carriages to discharge and take up at the same time. D .34 DUBLIN. Tliere are refreshment-rooms, together with kitchen and all requisite conveniences. If the visitor should now wish to ])roceed to the Eoyai Society buildings, he will, by going round Stephen's Green, enter KiLDAKE Street. — On proceeding down this street, a quadrangle first presents itself, at one side of which is the (^.ntrance through an iron gateway into the premises of the Church Education Society. Proceeding further down the street we arrive at a rustic granite gateway, leading into the premises of the EoYAL Dublin Society. — This Society, which is the oldest of the kind in the United Kingdom, was founded in 1731, and incorporated by charter of Geo. 11. in 1746. The premises of the Society, which are situate between Kildare Street and the west side of Merrion Square, were purchased in the year 1815 from the Duke of Leinster. The spacious hall contains on the left a colossal statue of George IV. by Behnes, and several busts of distinguished persons, placed on pillars of Irish marble. Passing to the left, tlie Society's board-room is entered Tho Chair is remarkable as being that of tlie Irish House of Commons, slightly altered to make it more suitable for the Society's purposes. Ascending the stair- case, the library, which occupies not only the large room first entered, but the suit'=) of six rooms opening from it, contains about 40,000 volumes of scientific and literary works—fiction being excluded. Persons are readily admitted as readers on being introduced by a member. The library is open daily from 11 to 5 o'clock, and on evenings of Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 7 to half-past 9 o'clock. The visitor returning to the courtyard will find under the northern piazza the entrance to the School of Art, and Gallery of Casts and Statues. Leaving the schools, the visitor by crossing to the large gateway oppo- site, may enter a spacious hall for the accommodation of the agricultural shows, for which the society's premises are admirably adapted. Of these shows, the society holds two annually, one at spring, principally of breeding stock, the other at Christmas, of fat stock and farm produce. This haU is occasionally used for other exhibitions, such as of art and manufactures. Other portions of the premises worthy of a visit are the Agricultural Museum and Museum of Natural History. Itis necessary, however, to remind visitors that the Museum is free to the public on Mondays, Wedneadaya^ FIRST WALK. 35 and Fridays. On Tuesdays and Saturdays tlie admission is sixpence. The Xational Memorial Statue of the late Prince Consort by Foley, erected in 1872, stands on the Society's lawn, which is laid out as an ornamental dower-garden. King and Queen's College of Physicians is on the same side of the street, built in the Palladian style of archi- tecture, with a fine Hall, 60 by 40 feet, containing a statue of Sir Henry Marsh, by Foley. There is an excellent library. The Kildare Street Club is at the termination of th*^. street, and is an elegant building in the Lombardo- Vene- tian style. IVIERRION EOW and Merrion Street. The visitor will pause at the house No. 24, now used as the office of the Ecclesiastic Commissioners for Ireland, but interesting to us as The Birth-Place of Wellington. Having entered Merrion Square, we walk on the south side so far as the house No. 30, for sometime the residence of Ireland's great political leader, Dan O'Connell. THE NATIONAL GALLERY, with a statue of Dargan in front, stands on the north side of Leinster Lawn, oppo- site to the Museum of Natural History, with which, in external design, it corresponds. The building, which is still unfinished, has been erected at a cost of upwards of ^26,000, £5000 of which was raised by public sub- scription as a testimonial to Mr. William Dargan in commemoration of his spirited liberality in organising the Dublin Exhibition of 1853. On entering the building the visitor passes first into a very handsome room devoted to the exhibition of statuary, at the further end of which are two winding staircases leading to the upper apartment intended for the Picture Gallery. From this room the visitor may ascend by two flights to smaller rooms in- tended for additional picture galleries. The interior of the building is according to the design of the late Captain Fowke, E.E., the architect of the London International Exhibition of 1 8 6 2. Passing on to Westland Eow we observe ST. ANDREW'S EOMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, on the right, a Doric building in the style of the Acropolis at Athens, designed by James Boulgai*, and erected in 1832-34 at an expense of <£l 3,000. The building is in the form of a cross. On the tympanum, which is sup- ported by two columns and four pilasters, is a fine piece of sculpture, representing the Scottish saint and cross. Over the tabernacle, in the interior, is a group, embodying the Transfiguration, from the chisel of the justly celebrated Hogan. THE TERMINUS of the KINGSTOWN RAILWAY, in the immediate vicinity, is a plain structure. From it the traveller departs for England or the watering- places on the south of Dublin Bay. Our route here turns to the right and leads us along Great Brunswick Street, then down Clarence Street, on the left, till we arrive at the river side at SIR JOHN ROGERSON'S QUAY, the view from which is highly admired. It is the reverse of that obtained from Carlisle Bridge, having the shipping in the fore- ground, and the Custom-House to our left, peering in the distance through a forest of masts. On the right, the eye wanders down the course of the river, past the lighthouse, until it expands into a wide bay, and becomes lost in the horizon. Retracing our steps towards the centre of the city, though by a different route, we shall avail ourselves of the ferry-boat, and cross the river close by THE DOCKS, situated at the east side of the Custom- House. They are of tolerable size, and well planned. The basins are built entirely of Wicklow granite. The Quay on which they are situated is the north wall, the spot from which most of the English and Scottish steamers start, and where may be seen on busy days all manners and kinds of merchandise, including rags, cattle, hogsheads, pigs, and vegetables, all waiting for shipment. A little further west is FIRST WALK. 37 THE CUSTOM-HOUSE (page 24). We are now in Beresford Place, and a sharp turn brings ns to Lower Abbey Street, where we find two most inte- resting buildings on the left. MECHANICS' INSTITUTION, a plain but commo* dious structure, containing a good library and reading- room, with a spacious lecture-hall, besides several class- rooms. Lectures are occasionally delivered, and classes for languages, music, and drawing, are open to members and others at very cheap rates. The reading-room is open every week-day from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., and on Sundays from 2 P.M. Strangers may avail themselves of the oppor- tunity of consulting the Lish or English newspapers, on payment of one penny. The Institute was founded in 1837, and since that period has jjrogressed considerably. THE EOYAL HIBERNIAN ACADEMY, on the same side of the street, is a plain Doric structure, erected in 1824 for the promotion of the fine arts. In 1823 the academy had received a royal charter for the study of painting, sculpture, and architecture. The exhibition usually opens in May, and closes in the latter end of July, the charge being one shilling. In 1853, however, it was open so late as the end of October, at a charge of sixpence through the day ; and in the evening, for the benefit of the working classes, at one penny. The plain building nearly opposite is Union Chapel, belongiag to the Presby- terian body. We have now re-entered Sackville Street, with the Post-Office to the right. 38 DUBLIN. SECOND WALK Po97-Okpice. Proceed tip Sackville Street. Earl Street. Metropolitan Roman Catholic Chapel. Return to Sackville Street. Rotunda; Rutland Square. Great Britain Street. Newgate. Bolton Street. Henrietta Street. Queen's Inns. King Street. Coleraine Street. Linen Hall. Constitution Hill. Terminus of Galway Railway. North Union Workhouse. Grange Gorman Lane. Richmond Peni' tentiary. Gravel Walks. Blue Coat School. Barrack Street. Barracks. Parkgate Street. Enter Phoenix Park. Returning, cross King's Bridge. Terminus of Cork and Killamey Railway ; Steevens' Lane. Steevens' HospitaL Bow Lane. Royal Hospital Military Road to Barrack Bridge ; Cross to EUis' Quay ; Queen's, Bridge. Arran Quay. Whitworth Bridge. Four Courts ; Richmond Bridge. Ormand Quay. Essex Bridge ; Wellington Bridge. Bachelor's Walk. Carlisle Bridge. Cross to Burgh Quay, Com Exchange; Conciliation Hall. THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE must again be our starting-point ; but on this occasion, instead of directing our course to the soutb, we turn our backs upon the river and proceed northwards. First, however, let us turn to the right along Earl Street, to the METROPOLITAN ROIVIAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, generally termed the Church of the Conception. The position of the structure is bad, hemmed in, as it unfortu- nately is, by neighbouring edifices of a different class. The design is Grecian, and is the combined effort of several illustrious architects. The principal front is ornamented by a hexastyle portico of the Doric order. Upon the apex of the pediment stands a statue of the Virgin, of colossal size ; and on the extremities are similar effigies of St. Patrick and St. Laurence O'Toole. The decorations of the interior are very chaste ; but the chief attraction is a relievo in stucco of the Ascension, placed over the altar in the ceiling. In an aisle on the right, a beautiful monu- ment to the late pious and liberal-minded Roman Catholic Bishop of Dublin, Dr. Murray, has been erected. Return- ing to Sackville Street, we again face the north, and reach the SECOND WALK. 39 ROTUNDA, at the head of the street. This peculiar- looking building is situated at the corner of Rutland Square, and consists of a series of rooms used for public meetings, Avith a suite of assembly-rooms, and all profits go to support the adjoining Lying-in Hospital. This institution was erected in 1751-57 by Dr. Mosse, and affords relief to upwards of 2000 patients yearly. Govern- ment grants £500 annually to the institution. The garden is open during the summer, and forms a favourite pro- menade, being enlivened with a military band. Near the Rotimda are two excellent new Gothic churches — a Presbyterian Chapel (the gift of Mr. Findlater), and a Catholic Chapel in Dominick Street. We now turn to the left, down Britain Street, and arrive at a dark gloomy building named NEWGATE, the scene of poor Lord Fitzgerald's death in 1798, where in the same year the barristers Henr;y and John Sheares, with John M^Cann, secretary to the Leinster Committee of United Irishmen, and W. ]\L Byrne, were all executed for high treason. These are gloomy memories, but we hope that Irishmen will forget the bitter feelings towards England which are associated with them, as assuredly no man with a kindly spirit could exult in them. Newgate is not now used as a prison. Let us then leave the place, by passing up Green Street, Bolton Street, and Henrietta Street, as far as THE KING'S INNS, a building at once beautiful and imposing. The front is composed of a centre and two wings ; a pediment bears the royal arms. An octa- gonal cupola surmounts the whole. The dining-hall is well worthy of notice, being ornamented with several statues and paintings, among which are portraits of Lord Avonmore and Lord Chancellor Manners. The building contains various courts and offices. The library is a new building, erected in 1827, at a cost of £20,000, Retracing ^0 DUBLIN. our stejis down Henrietta Street, we reach the county militia quarters, formerly occupied by. the commissioners of encumbered estates, whose business was removed to, and is now conducted at the Four Courts. Bolton Street, ^^^'ti Street, and Coleraine Street, must next be paced, in the latter of which is situated THE LINEN HALL, a pretty extensive range of buildings, where, when the linen trade flourished in Ireland, crowds of purchasers flocked from every corner of Europe. The cotton trade of Manchester has materially injured this branch of Irish industry, though some hopes of its ultimate revival have been entertained. The building consists of six spacious courts, with store-houses, the total number of apartments being 557. Passing along Constitu- tion Hill we arrive at the BEOADSTONE TEEMINUS of the Galway or Midland Great AYestern Kailwat. The building is composed of granite, and is a combination of the Grecian and Egyptian styles of architecture. The view of the city from this point is very fine, especially in a clear day, when the Wicklow Mountains are distinctly seen in the distance. THE NOETH UNION WOEKHOUSE is close at hand to the left. This building affords house-room for 2300 paupers ; it originally formed part of the House ol Industry, but in 1840 was converted into its present use. Adjoining it are hospitals for lunatic, fever, chronic, and other patients. The Eichmond Lunatic Asylum was erected by the public at a cost of £50,000, and being finished in 1815, during the Lieutenancy of the Duke of Eichmond, his title was given to the building. It consists of 210 ceUs, with 8 rooms for convalescents ; and has its fuE complement of nurses and medical attendants. This hospital is entirely for the benefit of paupers. A farm is attached to the asylum, on which light employment w SECOND WALK. 41 found for those qualified for it. In Grange Gorman Lan^ IS situated the EICHMOND FEMALE PENITENTLA.EY a plain but substantial building, constructed of mountain limestone and granite. This highly praiseworthy and beneficial institution is conducted in a most becoming manner, every attention being given to the moral training of its penitent inhabitants. Nor are their intellectual faculties allowed to remain in that deep sleep which destitution and crime l]ave settled upon them. Useful branches of education are taught, together with some trade or occupation, which may be the means of allowing them to earn an honest livelihood on their departure from this sanctuary. Wend* ing our way to the river side through the Gravel Walk, we come upon what seems to be an unfinished building — THE BLUE COAT SCHOOL, founded in the time of Charles IL, who gave it a charter, for the support and education of the sons and grandsons of decayed freemen of the city. It was originally designed, however, to embrace a \vider sphere of charity. The aged poor were intended to be relieved, but th.e funds of the institution were inadequate. The building, as it now stands, was begun in 1 773, when the Earl of Harcourt laid the foundation stone. The dome is yet unfiinished, being intended to rise 140 feet in height. The edifice consists of a middle portion with two wings. Tlie front is 360 feet in length. The central portion of the building is appropriated to the conductors of the hospital, the south wing is the school-room, and the north ^ving the chapel. Behind are buildings used as a dining-hall, and sleeping apartments for the boys, and offices. The income of the hospital is about £4000 annually. We now enter Barrack Street, running parallel with the river, and soon discover the esplanade in front of the EGYAL BAEEACK, an estabHshment of greater ex- tent than any usually met with, providing, as it does, 42 DUBLIN. ample acconunodation for one horse and two foot regi- ments. It is bnilt on rising ground,^ and comprises five large squares. Immediately behind the barrack is Arbour Hill, the military hospital for the east of Ireland, and the Old Provost Prison, in which Theobald Wolfe Tone com- mitted suicide. Parkgate Street is a continuation of Barrack Street, and, as its name implies, leads the visitor to the gate of the celebrated PHGENIX PAEK (page 25). Eeturning from this fashionable resort, we may cross KING'S BKIDGE.— This bridge was so named in honour of the visit of George lY. to Dublin in 1821 ; it was not commenced, however, until 1827. The span is of iron, 120 feet in length, with abutments of granite, and the whole presents a truly graceful appearance. It was erected by public subscription, at a cost of <£ 13,000. The design is by Pap worth. THE TERMINUS OF THE CORK AND KIL- IjARNEY railway, styled the Great Southern and Western Railway, next meets us. This is undoubtedly an ornament to the city, and superior in style to most of the railway termini in Ireland. The front is formed of beautifully hewn granite, commencing at the base with the Tuscan order, corniced and rusticated ; then eight Corin- thian columns and two pilasters rise above, with well executed windows between them ; the pediments of which are alternately angular and arched. Surmounting these are a balustrade and cornice. Two wings project, one at either side, rising to the height of the first storey, and bearing clock-towers with cupolas. The entire width of the front is 213 feet. The internal arrangements of the terminus are admirable. The passenger shed occupies two and a half English acres of ground, is covered by a light iron roof, and contains comfortable ss^aiting rooms and other offices. The Act of Parliament for the construction SECOND WALK. 43 of this railway was passed in 1844. The chief engineer is Sir John M^NeilL We now pass through Steevens* Lane, and approach STEEVENS' HOSPITAL, endowed by Dr. R. Steevens, who died in 1710. The building was commenced in 1720, and opened for patients in 1733. The funds of the hospital amoimt annually to about £2200, be- sides a grant from Government. It is capable of accom- modating about three hundred inmates, who are classified according to age, sex, and the nature of their complaints. The erection is very plain, and contains, besides ward-rooms, a chapel, a library, and committee-rooms. We next enter Bow Lane, turning sharply to the right, and come in sight of THE ROYAL HOSPITAL, for disabled or super- annuated soldiers. It is a quadrangular mass of buildings, enclosing a grass plot. Three sides of the quadrangle present a piazza on the ground storey, on which the veteran inhabitants can take open air exercise, even in wet weather. The northern is the principal front, and contains the masters' apartments. The chapel is on the eastern front, and has a stained-glass window, originally belonging to the Hospitallers' chapel. Altogether, the interior decorations of the chapel are of a superior caste, exhibiting elaborate carvings in wood, and modellings in plaster. The hospital was founded in 1679 by Charles II., who granted sixty- four acres of ground for the purpose, and appointed sixpence in the pound to be deducted from the pay of all military men, " towards the building of said hospital, the same to be continued until by some other way, it shall be provided with a sufficient revenue of land for support of it." In 1794, Parliament interfered and granted a sum for the maintenance of the hospital. The erection, including a garden, infirmary, churchyard, etc., cost upwards of .£23,000. It was originally intended to afi'ord shelter to three hundred inmates, being the proportion of one to 4 i DUBLIN. twenty-five of the Irish, soldiery. It may be interesting to know, that the present hospital stands on the site of the ancient priory of Kilmainham, at one time belonging to the Hospitallers, or Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Turning again to the right, after a short walk, we continue in a direction parallel to the railway, until we enter the military road, and down Watling Street, to BAERACK BEIDGE, rejoicing occasionally in tlie ominous title of Bloody Bridge. Originally built of wood in 1670, it was shortly after the scene of one of the apprentice riots, by no means uncommon at that period, in which four of the disturbers of the peace were killed. The present structure is quite new, having been commenced in 1858. We turn to the right, and continue down Ellis Quay, till we come to the next in order — QUEEN'S BRIDGE, so named in honour of Queen Charlotte. It is built of stone, is 140 feet long, by 40 feet in mdth. It was opened in 1768. We now walk along Arran Quay to. WHITWORTH BRIDGE, one of the finest in Dublin. From the middle of it we have a good view, embracing, in the left foreground, the magnificent fa9ade of THE FOUR COURTS OF DUBLIN (page 25). RICHMOND BRIDGE, erected on the site of Old Ormond Bridge, which spanned the river from 1428 till it was swept away by a flood in 1802, is next seen. It was re-erected between 1813-16, and cost the sum of ^25,000. It consists of three arches, the key-stones of which are ornamented with colossal heads. The length is 220 feet and width 52 feet. Ormond Quay must next be traversed, passing ESSEX BRIDGE, a miniature copy of Westmiaster Bridge, with fine arches, a balustrade, and cornice, opened in 1755. This is the longest bridge in Dublin, being 250 feet long bv 51 wide. SECOND WALK. 45 WELLINGTON or THE METAL BELDGE, consists of a single arch, tlie segment of an ellipse, 240 x 12 feet. The stmctiire is of iron, and has a light elegant appearance. It was opened in 1816, and received its name in honour of the bright achievements of the Iron Duke at Waterloo. By Bachelor's Walk we again reach Carlisle Bridge, and may either return homewards, or again cross the Liffey, and turning to the left down Burgh Quay, among all the bustle and confusion of lading and unlad- ing, to THE CORN EXCHANGE, the meeting-place of the National Council in 1832, and the Eepeal Association at a later period. It was erected in 1816 ; the interior is 130 feet in length, and contains movable stalls for ex- hibiting samples of com. The next building, now lost in the dust of its present occupation, is the once famous CONCILIATION HALL, the scene of the great O'Connell triumphs. On the ceiling of the upper loft is still preserved the gilded harp and shamrock of Ireland. The tourist need hardly be informed that the building, which some years ago echoed with the wild and wily elo- quence of the liberator, is now a corn-store. Again we are within sight of the starting-point. Our street walk has barely amounted to five miles, but the toil of gazing on handsome buildings, stretching our necks to read inscriptions, and sundry other pieces of labour, may be fairly said to double it. We have now seen absolutely everything in the city ; this is not meant to imply that there is nothing else at all worthy of notice, but that we have pointed out the lions. The patient student of city life, or city architecture, might find employment for many days. By way of an evening amusement, a drive in the Park woidd afford a pleasant recreation ; or, if otherwise disposed, the Theatre may supply the want. The Theatre Royal is in Hawkins Street : it is well fitted up, and the company is generally good. The Queen's Theatre is situated in Brunswick Street, and the Gaiety in South King Street. 46 ©UBUN. THIRD WALK. TO CLOXDALKIN. Post Office. Henry Street. Mary Street. St. Mary's Church. Mary's Lane. Church Street. St. Michan's Chui'ch. Whitworth Bridgb. Cross Brtt>ge Street. St. Audoen's Roman Catholic Chapel. New Row. Francis Street. St. Nicholas' Roman Catholic Chapel. Coombe Street. Weavers' Hall. John Street. Summer Street. School Street. Grand Canal Harbour. Clondalkin. Monastery. Roc7nj> Tower. Church. Return by road, passing Kilmainham Jail and Royal Hospital, to Phoenix Park; or by rail to Kingsbridge Station. Fares — Is., 9d., and 4d. Cars entire distance about 3s. ; or by time at Is. per hour. We liave already, in the course of our two walks through the city and its suburbs, visited ■ almost every building of note and place of resort within its precincts ; yet, as w(i have to go to Clondalkin, we may as well have a few notes to take with us by the way. If time be precious, a six penny drive to the Kingsbridge Station, and a four miles' run per rail, will be a saving ; but if we have leisure and inclination for a w^alk, it may be interesting to take the Liberties of DubKn on our way. Suppose then, that from our old starting-place in Sackville Street, we turn round into Henry Street to our left, and pursue an even course through it into Mary Street, to ST. MAKY'S CHUECH, an old-fashioned but com- modious church, built in 1697. It has a front ornamented with Ionic columns, and is crowned by a bell-tower. The east window is a good specimen of glass-painting, repre- senting the Ascension in the centre, with the Four Evan- gelists in the other compartments. Unfortunately it is but a wreck of what it once was. In 1852, on an old city member, !Mr. John Keynolds, being thrown out, the mob set to work with stones to demolish the windows of several of the churches in town, and this one suffered severely among the rest. Mary's Lane is now entered, and turning from it to the left, into Church Street, find on our right hand the ancient THIRD WALK. 47 ST. MICHAN'S CHUECH, founded in 1095 by the pious Dane wliose name it bears. The present build- ing does not, however, date so far back, having been erected on the site of an old one in 1676. Very few portions of the building can even claim this antiquity, so many have been the alterations and improvements made on it. The square tower, however, is decidedly venerable. The vaults of the chapel possess the peculiar property of preserving the bodies intrusted to them in a perfectly un- decomposed state, resembling in this respect the Egyptian mummy pits. Dryness, one great essential to the preserve - ing of animal matter, is comj^lete here. But at one time, owing, it is said, to the night visits of a rascally sexton, for the purpose of stealing away the lead coffins from the dead, the damp night air entered, and bade fair to play havoc with the mummies. There is a storj^ told of his releasing the boQy J* a lady from its coflSn, which, however, looked him fiercely in the face with a pair of vengeful eyes, and so terrified him, that he left his lantern and ran home half dead witli fright ; the lady is said to have taken advantage of the light, and to have walked quietly to her own home, where for years she lived a happy life ! Many readers have heard this story repeated in connection with some place or another, and have, no doubt, set it down as very diihious ; but don't let him indulge sceptical notions, or if he does, let him by no means express them before the present sexton, or indeed in Dublin at all. Here rest the weary bodies of not a few individuals illustrious in their day, i, e., at the time of the rebellion some seventy years ago. The brothers Sheares, Ohver Bond, Dr. Charles Lucas, and the Eev. W. Jackson, who acted as agent in France for the United Irishmen, and who " sunk in the dock," from the effects of poison, before the bench could pronounce sentence upon him. We have again to reach the river, and, crossing it by Whitworth Bridge, enter Bridge Street, and view ST. AUDOEN'S Eoman Catholic Chapel, an old structure, indeed one of the oldest chapels in Dublin. It is not now used, the new Chapel in High Street having superseded it. Those interested in the past turmoils of 48 DUBLIN. the nation will peril aps spare a moment for rellection »« they contemplate tlie house in this street now occupied bj Messrs. Vance and Beers. In this house, on the 12th March 1798, the committee of the United Irishmen of the Leinster district, with poor Emmett at their head, were convened for rebellious purposes, when the law, aided by a military force, took them into custody, at the same time laying hold of their papers. In the castle, Emmett, M'Nevin, M^Cormick, Jackson, and Dillon, were examined by the Privy Comicil, the result of which was, that war- rants were issued for the apprehension of Lord Edward Fitzgerald and Councillor Sampson. The volunteer corps, meanwhile, paraded the streets night and day. Entering New Eow, and through it to Francis Street, we approach ST. NICHOLAS' Eoman Catholic Chapel, which stands on the site of the ancient monastery of St. Francis. The portico consists of four Ionic columns. The Rev. Dr. Flanagan erected at his own expense the square towei w^hich is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters. The inte- rior is richly decorated. Over the side altars are figures by Hogan of St. Luke and St. Nicholas ; groups also repre- sent the Virgin with the body of Christ, the baptism of our Saviour, and the scene of his first miracle at Cana. li still interested in historical affairs, a turn into Thomas' Street will not occupy much time, and in the house No. 151, then occupied by a person known as " Marphy, the feather-man," Lord Fitzgerald was taken, but in" the cap- ture received his death- wound at the hand of Major Sirr. He expired in Newgate in a state of frenzy, after about four weeks' suffering. In the same street Lord Kilwarden was assaulted by a mob, furious with the memory of Emmett's fate, and dragged, along with his nephew, from his carriage. His nephew was brutally murdered by the demoniac crowd, but his lordship and his daughter, who accompanied him, escaped. We are now fairly within the Liberties of the city, and in ( rder to witness more palpably THIRD WALK. 49 the departed glory of the place, enter Coombe Street, and see THE WEAVERS' HALL. This hall was erected in 1745 hy Mr. J. D. Latonche, the descendant of a family who, on the revocation of Edict of Nantes, left France and found a home in the Irish metropolis. The members of the same family have ever been distinguished as commer- cial men. Over the entrance is a statue of George IL The interior is plain and truly depressing. Continuing through John Street, Summer Street, and School Street, we gain the basin of the Grand Canal, a herculean task in its day, and of great benefit to Ireland before the opening of the Midland and Great Western Railway, connecting, as it does, Dublin with the very centre of Ireland. CLOXDALKIN, a village of scattered houses, contains a parish church, a national school, and, as its crowning feature, a round tower. The tower is about eighty feet high, and built of stones each about a foot square, forming a circle fifteen feet in diameter. The waUs are very thick. Towards the top are four small oblong holes which admit the light, and it is termi- nated by a conic covering. A rude flight of steps has been constructed of such a rough nature that we might almost suppose them coeval with the tower. So firmly built is this apparently rude effort of masonry, that some years ago in the explosion of the powder-mills close at hand, which laid the village in almost total ruins, the tower stood uninjured. Many conjectures have been raised as to the object of these peculiar monuments, not less than as to their builders. Every possible use has been assigned to them, from watch-towers to church steeples. The Danes not unfrequently get the credit of their erection, and certainly in the present instance there may appear to be some plausibility in the belief. It is well known that Amlofi'e the Dane, who was crowned King of Dublin by his followers in 852, built a royal residence for. himself at Clondalkiu. That the tower may hare been apper- taining to the rude palace of the rude king seems not altogether improbable. FOURTH WALK. DUBLIN TO GLASNEVIN. The city being all but exhausted, it may be well to find our way through streets not already traversed. For this pur- pose, we will proceed in a northerly direction through Sackville Street, and walk or drive through Gregg's Lane and Marlborough Street, in order to have a passing view of E 50 DUBLIN TO GLASNEVI]^ ST. THOMAS' CHURCH.— The ornamental details, which are showy without being elegant, embrace Corinthian, Grecian, and Roman styles, mixed up together, and are said to have been designed by Pulladio. A steeple was intended to have been added, but 'as yet is only represented by a wooden belfry. Temple Street must be traversed before we come upon the Ionic front of ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH.— Erected in 1802, at a cost of nearly £40,000. The portico is composed of four fine Ionic columns, supporting an entabla- ture and frieze, with an angular pediment. The spire is highly ornamented, and rises to the height of 200 feet. On the frieze is a Greek inscription from Luke ii. 14—" Glory to God in the Highest." Elaborately carved can- tilevers support a gallery which stands along three sides of the interior The fourth side has a curved bay, in which are situated the pulpit and reading- desk, fenced off from the communion-table by an elegant railing. In Dorset Street, which is close at hand, the Roman Catholic Chapel of ST. FRANCIS XAVIER is seen. This chapel is universally admired as a good specimen of the Roman Ionic style. It was originally designed by the Rev. B. Esmonde in 1829 ; J. B. Keano \)eing architect. The cost was £18,000. In front is a handsome portico fifty feet high, built of native granite. The interior decorations are very elaborate, especially on the ceiling and the altar-screen. A short walk through Elizabeth Street will bring us to Blacquir Bridge over the Royal Canal, and a few steps further will place us on the Glasnevin road, some- what less than a mile from the Post Ofiice. THE VILLAGE OF GLASNEVIN is situated about two miles from Dublin. The houses are poor in general, though a few have more preten- sions. The chief attractions are the Cemetery and Botanic Gardens. THE CEMETERY occupies a considerable area. The surface, unfor- tunately for picturesque effect, is perfectly level, yet the whole is tastefully laid out and carefully kept. One fine feature in Irish cemeteries cannot fail to catch the eye of the tourist from England or Scotland — the attention paid to the graves of deceased friends. Daily the relatives of the deceased may be seen with a little basket of fresh flowers to decorate the graves of theii* departed friends. Or, if it is winter, wreaths of evergreens of various hues, with a cross of solemn black, are hung on the rails which surround the visited tomb. We have already seen the habitation of Daniel O'Connell, and the Hall where his eloquence stirred the multitude. We now visit his tomo. From an octagonal foundation of native limestone rises a granite round tower, upwards of 160 feet in height, surmounted by a cross 8 feet high, and weighing, it is said, about two tons. However appropriate the monu- ment, it can scarcaly be called beautiful, whether viewed from a distance ar close at hand. In the cry'pt underneath the tower the remains of the great agitator now rest in peace. A round platform of earth in the centra of the ground, surrounded by a deep ditch, is the spot where O'Connell was nriffiually buried; and in the vault opening into this moat are the remains FOURTH WALK 51 »f Steele, his statmch snpporter. Above the door will be seen the simplt inscription " Honest Tom Steele," contrasting favourably with a fulsome, ill-written epitaph on a neighbouring vault. The visitor of course will notice many tombs, but as the majority of them will only interest the few, we shall merely call attention to one, that of the admired wit and distinguished orator Curran. The tomb is of Irish granite, and a facsimile of the celebrated monument of Scipio Barbatiens. Admission to the cemetery is free, and no gratuity is allowed to be asked. " From the city of silence," we pass by a stile through a field to the high road, and thence in a few minutes reach the BOTANIC GAEDENS, Glasnevin, whicli are open daily at 12 o'clock, and on Saturdays at 2. The garden, which contains 43 acres, had formerly been the property of the poet Tickell, who came to Ireland with Addison, at the time when the latter was secretary to Lord Sunderland. In the house on the grounds Tickell enjoyed many happy hours in his friend's society ; and in it we may presume his best title to poetic fame, the ballad of Colin and Lucy, was composed. Perhaps few villages have been so honoured by literary talent. Pamell, the author of the Hermit, Brinsley Sheridan, and Swift, lived at different times in or near it ; and at Delville, a short way off, resided Dr. Delany, where poor Stella came to visit, in order to be near her eccentric admirer. A walk is shown to visitors named " Addison's Walk," having been peculiarly attractive to the author of the " Spectator " during his residence in Dublin. The Botanic Garden was founded in the year 1790 by the Irish Parliament, who voted a sufficient sum to the Koyal Dublin Society to enable it to purchase the ground, and the Society still receives an annual grant from Parliament for its support. It is generally admitted that for pictur- esque beauty this garden is second to none in Europe ; and the view, as seen from the rising ground overlooking the river, is certainly one which cannot be surpassed. It is a favourite resort of the Dublin people, nearly 1 40,000 annually visiting the gardens on Sundays alone. JINVIRONS OF DUBLIN. HowTH, p. 54. Kingstown, p. 71. Bray, p. 73. EXCUESIONS. Devil's Glen, p. 81. Malahide, p. 60. Seven Churches, p, 85. Drogheda, p. 62. OvocA, p. 92. The Boyne, p. 63. PowERSCOURT, p. 76. WicKLOW, p. 97. Kells, p. 70. DUBLIN TO HOWTH. By 'Rail from Amiens Street. Trains seven times daily. Distance, 9 miles. Perhaps no better way of spending a day can be pro- posed than in an excursion to the peninsular bill of Howtb, The ancient name of the hill is Ben Hedar, which literally means the " Mountain of the Birds." It is the first object that attracts attention in approaching Dublin from the sea. Taking the Drogheda Eailway from Amiens Street, we fa-oss, half-a-mile from the terminus, the Eoyal Canal by a ^Q viaduct of latticed iron, 140 feet long, and I CLONTARF. 53 immediately after obtain a view of tlie spacious bay of Dublin, with its breakwater, two miles in length. On the left appears MAEINO, the residence of the Earl of Charlemont, situ- ated in the middle of an extensive and beautiful demesne, with many fine trees. Various architectural ornaments add to the natural beauty of the scene. The most noticeable, perhaps, is the temple built by Sir W. Chambers. It is in the Doric order, and is beautifully ornamented with friezes ; while on the angles of the basement rest colossal lions. The interior is tastefully decorated, and the roof affords a magnificent view of the city of Dublin and the Bay. To the left appears the memorable plain of CLONTARF, famous as the scene of Brian Boroimhe's last victory over the Danes. ** Remember the glories of Brian the brave. Though the days of the hero are o'er ; Though lost to Mononia, and cold in the grave, He returns to Kinkora no more. That star of the field, which so often hath poured Its beam on the battle, is set ; But enough of its glory remains on each sword. To light us to victory yet." MOOEE. It is doubted by many writers whether the victory was really in favour of the Irish. It is generally, however, conceded in their favour. The Scottish reader may be interested to see the name of Lennox mentioned among the soldiers of the patriot king. An Irish manuscript, trans- lated a few years ago for the " Dublin Penny Journal," by J. O'Donovan, after summing up the number of natives ^lain on the side of Brian, says — "The great stewards of Leamhue (Lennox) and Mar, with other brave Albanian Scots, the descendants of Core, King of Munster, died in the same cause." After the battle, great respect was shown to the body of tne de- ceased king by his devoted followers, who almost looked upon him in the light of a saint. Wills gives the following account of the progress of Ms corpse; — "The body of Brian, according to his will, was conveyed to Armagh. First, the clergy of Swords in solemn procession brought it ta 54 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIlv. their abbey, from thence the next morning, the clergy of Damliag (Duleck} conducted it to the church of St. Kiaran. Here the clergy of Lowth (Lugh- mach), attended the corpse to their own monastery. The Archbishop of Armagh, with his suflragans and clergy, received the body at Lowth, whence it was conveyed to their cathedral For twelve days and nights it was watched by the clergy, during which time there was a continual scene of prayers and devotion," Few traces remain of this dreadful encounter. CLONTAEF CASTLE, the seat of the Vernons, is another attraction to the spot. It is built in the Norman castellated style, which is almost the only order of archi- tecture suited for such buildings. The architect was Wm. Morrison, who died lately. The site of the building was formerly that of an ancient preceptory of the Knights Templars, dependent on that situated at Kilmainham. Should the tourist wish to visit the battlefield, and the two mansions just referred to, he may take the omnibus from the Nelson Column to Clontarf for threepence, and then take the train from Raheny Station to Howth. EAHENY is the first station on the line. The village presents no features of interest, save in the richness of the country surrounding it, which extends to the very foot of the hill of Howth. This tract was styled anciently the plain of Magh-n-Ealta. About a mile further we come to the Junction, where we leave the trunk line for Drogheda, and diverging by a branch to Howth, cross a long sandy isth- mus which connects the Hill of Howth with the mainland. BALDOYLE, a fishing village, is situate to the left on this isthmus, with one or two villas in its neighbourhood, while an extensive oyster-bed, known as Sutton Strand, lies to the right of the railway. The Hill of Howth is well seen from the train for some time before reaching it, HOWTH. Hotels. — The Boyal, The St. Jjawrence. Population 950. The Village of Howth, consisting of a single street, is situated pleasantly on the face of the hill. Originally it extended farther towards the castle, and at that time was merely a fishing village. Having become a sea-bathing HOWTH. 65 Btation, a few more comfortable and commodious houses have sprung into existence of late, and the Eoyal Hotel, which is well conducted, affords good accommodation for families and tourists. There are also several other houses of entertainment which supply refreshment and accommo- dation to casual visitors. The population is about 700, independent of occasional summer residents ; the town contains a fine Eoman Catholic chapel, a dispensary, a national school, a constabulary station, and on an eminence near the castle is the neat parish church. HowTH Harbour. — The importance of constructing a harbour here was first urged upon the attention of Govern- ment in 1801, by the Hon. and Rev. W. Dawson, who proposed that mail packet-boats should start from it. At length, after many applications, the work was commenced in 1807 by the celebrated engineer Remiie. The harbour is somewhat rhomboidal in outline. The pier to our left runs out for a distance of 2280 feet ; that on the right is 2700 feet in length, but is so constructed as to form two sides of the boundary, leaving in front an entrance 320 feet wide. It was here that George TV. landed, in August 1821, on his brief visit to Ireland. The charming rocky island, seemingly a stone-throw from the piers, is that long known as Ireland's Eye, to which a boat may be procured in fine weather for two shillings. The ancient name of this island was ** Inis-mac-Nessan," which literally signifies the "Isle of the sons of Nessan." The present name appears to be a con-uption of that bestowed on it by the Danes, who called it Ireland's Ey — ^the word Ey in the Danish signifying an island — e.g. , Lambey, Anglesey, Jersey, etc. In ancient books it has been printed Irlandsey. The remains of the church of St. Nessan are still to be seen on the island. A portion of a round tower is attached, and is evidently the ruins of the bell-tower. Dr. Petrie assignes the period of its erection to the middle of the seventJi century, when the island was inhabited by Dichuil, Munissa, and Neslug, sons of Messan, princely scion of the family of Leinster. In our rowing boat we shall pass a rock known as Carrigeen island or rock, and enter Carrigeen bay, among large loose rocks, covered with wild lichens, mosses, and ferns, and approach the semicircular arch of the old church door-way, which stands towards the west. Little of the ruin remains, so we may wander about the island for half-an-hour in quiet enjoyment of the scenes 56 EXCPRSIONy FROM. DUBLIW. which, like a panorama, spread round on every side. The rocks and caves have each their peculiar names, as the Stags and the Rowan rocks, hut we leave these to the eloquence of the hoatman. On the sea-ward side the cliffs are very precipitous and imposing. Parties would do well to row round the Eye, and, weather permitting, to visit a curious cave on this side. The island contains about fifty-three statute acres. To the south- ward another of about one acre in area, called ThuUa, is connected with the parent isle by a submerged reef, designated Thulla rocks, over which the sea sometimes lashes with terrible fury. HowTH Castle is the family seat of the St. Lawrences, who have held it since the time of their ancestor, Sir Armoric Tristram de Valence, who arrived here in the twelfth century. The family name is said to have been Tristram, and that even Sir Armoric never bore the present family title, but that a descendant or relative assumed it on the occasion of a battle won by him on St. Lawrence's day. " The sword of this warrior yet hangs in the hall at Ilowth." The castle, which received additions, and was in a great measure rebuilt by the twentieth lord of Howth, in the sixteenth century, is a fine old structure. It consists of an embattled range, flanked by towers. The interior of the castle is rich in historical associations. Founded originally by one of the most chivalrous of the English settlers in Ireland, it has always maintained its high position. One sad blow was struck at his dignity by the graceless Grace O'Malley, or Granuaile, or Grana Uile, a western chieftainess, who, returning from a visit to Queen Elizabeth at London, landed at Howth, and essayed to tax the hospitality of the lordly owner, who refused to give her any refresh- ment. Determined to have her revenge, however, and to teach the de- scendant of the Saxon hospitality, she kidnapped the heir, and kept him a close prisoner until a pledge was obtained from his father that on no pretence whatever were the gates of Howth Castle to be closed at the hour of dinner. Strange though it may seem, this promise was most faithfully kept up to a very recent date. A painting of the incident is preserved in the oak-paneUed dining-room, 'fhe castle is approached by a flight of steps, leading into a hall extending the entire length of the building, and decorated with arms. Among these is the sword already referred to. It is a two-handed sword, measuring, even in its mutilated state, five feet seven inches ; the hilt alone being twenty-two inches long. There are also some good family portraits in the hall, and other interesting' mementos, including the bells from THE ABBEY OF HOWTH. 57 Howth Abbey. The inscription on one is not very intelli- gible ; those on the other two are more so ; on one it runs — Jesu : Christe : Misserere : Nobis : and on the other — Sancta : Maria : ora : Pro : Nobis : ad : Filium : One portrait must not be passed unnoticed, were it only for the curious adjuncts affixed to it. It is a full-length portrait, by Beridon, in 1735, of Dean Swift, who was a frequent visitor at the castle. He holds in his hand a paper, on which is written — " The Draper's fourth letter to the whole people of Ireland." Poor Wood sprawls naked at his feet, clenching his patent for the coinage of copper money, a quantity of which lies scattered about hiia. The pleasure-grounds are extensive, well laid out, and contain some fine trees. They are open to the public on Saturdays from 2 to 6 P.M. A deep moat formerly surrounded the castle, but is now almost wholly filled up. The Abbey of Howth is situated on a delightful spot overhanging the ocean. Tradition states that its founda- tion was laid in 1235, and that it was erected by Luke, Archbishop of Dublin, on the removal of the prebendal church from Ireland's Eye. It was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and hence styled St. Mar/s. Over the western door is a ruined beKry, and at the opposite end a triplet window. This is certaiuly the oldest portion of the abbey, and undoubtedly the most elegant. In the chancel is an altar-tomb, belonging to Christopher, the twentieth lord, and his lady Elizabeth. Eecumbent figures represent them both ; the former in armour. On the sides of the tomb are sculptured the arms of the family and its con- nections. Along the northern side of the original church is an additional aisle, with rounded Burgundian windows, supposed to belong to the sixteenth century. The College op Howth is a name given to a peculiar mass of building, situated close to the burial-ground of the 68 EXCaRSIONS from DUBLIN. abbey. In tbe centre is a small court, sxirroimded with higli walled buildings, now the habitation of the poorer classes. The Hill of Howth, properly so called, now invites onr attention. Having passed through the village, we keep on by the road to the right, and looking back at intervals, get a fine view of Ireland's Eye and Lambey islands, with the village of Howth in the foreground ; all the prettier for being partially shrouded with trees. Con- tinuing this walk, we come in sight of the rugged summits of Ben Edar, the highest point of which is 563 feet above the sea level. The steep rocks of Carricmore overhang the beautiful grounds of Howth Castle, and afford an extensive view of the coast, with a foreground of heather. At the foot of the rocks is an ancient cromlech, consisting of a huge oblong stone, about fourteen feet by twelve, supported on a number of others. Some of the supporting stones are still seven feet in height. Writers are at variance regarding the origin of this relic — some asserting that it was originally connected in some mysterious manner with a druidi- cal temple. The more generally received opinion is, that the cromlech was part of the sepulchral monument raised by the ancient inhabitants over their departed chiefs ; that it was, in fact, nothing more than a frame-work to protect the contents of the tomb from the pressure of the immense mass of stones piled around and above it in order to form a cairn. Taking this view of the subject, we must suppose that, in the course of time, the stones have been gradually removed from the cairn, leaving only the internal supports. An explanation, if not as reliable, yet more amusing, is the legend current among the natives, that the huge mass was pitched into its present position by the renowned giant Fin MacCoul, when fighting with a Danish warrior. The New Eoad, so named by way of distinguishing it from all others, is generally followed by travellers, affording a fine succession of marine views. Passing by this way the beautiful bay of Balscadden, a favourite bathing-place, we come to Puck's Kocks, situated on the north-east corner of the peninsula. A deep fissure separates the rock. Near the summit of the chasm is a rude representation of a human figure. ST. ftntan's church. 50 This figure, tradition tells us, is the petrified remains of an evil spirit, who used to plague the good Saint Nessan, when he lived on Ireland's Eye. On one occasion the saint was reading the much venerated book of Howth, on the approach of his fiendish enemy ; and raising the precious volume, struck the intruder so forcibly with it, that he was knocked right across the water into the rock, which split into that yawning chasm in order to receive him. A little furtlier on is the unlucky Castlena rock, on wliicli the Victoria struck. Further on, we come in sight of the lighthouse, on the headland to the S.E., known as the Baily of Howth. — The term Baily is supposed to be derived from an old Irish word signifying a fortified hill ; and certain it is, that so late as 1814 the lines of ancient fortifications were quite recognisable. The light- house was built in 1814 by the ** Ballast Board," in order to supersede an old one which stood 300 feet above the level of the water. It is in the form of a truncated cone supporting a lantern. The reflectors are parabolic, and in the foci are placed twenty large gas-jets, thus giving a clear fixed light. The appearance of the lighthouse from the road is very striking, standing out as it does on what seems to be an insulated rock. St. Fintan's Church (ruins) stands on the south side of Howth, facing the expanse of Dublin Bay. It was a church evidently of very slight pretensions, being little more than sixteen feet by eight ; the windows are small, and, with the exception of that in the east wall, destitute of orna- ment. The situation, however, makes up for all deficiencies in the building ; the view is delightful — on the north a rocky height, and on the south a beach, now the scene of a busy oyster trade. Besides the supposed druidical remains already mentioned, several others of a like character are observed on dififerent parts of the hill ; indeed, the ground seems teeming with historic and traditionary associations. The mountain limestone of Howth is much prized for mantel-pieces and orna- ments, being susceptible of a fine polish. Manganese is at present wrought on the south side of Howth, To the botanical visitor it will be sufficient to notice the following plants recorded as fouiid. Scilla verna on the beach ; Crithmum maritimum, the samphire ; Statice limonum, sea lavender ; Car- duus maricmuSy milk-thistle ; and in the marshes, Anagallis tenelkty the bog-pimpemel ; Iris fxtidissiTna, the blue-flowered iris ; and the Veronica. KuUUata, 60 EXCUESION FKOM DUBLIN. Malahide, Dbogheda, the Botne, Euins of Kells, etc By Kailway from Amiens Street Station. MALAHIDE (9 m. from Dublin). This village is resorted to for sea-batliiiig, and has an excellent hotel {Royal), but the chief attraction to strangers is Malahide Castle, the fine baronial mansion of Lord Talbot de Malahide, a large square building, flanked by lofty circular towers. The ancient character of the building has been retained, but little now remains of the original castle erected in the reign of Henry II. The main entrance is by a handsome Gothic porch, defended by two circular towers. The grand hall is roofed with richly-carved Irish oak, and among the many objects of interest is the " Oak Chamber," a room exhibiting the most elaborate carving in oak, and lighted with a pointed window of stained glass. The roof, wMch. is lofty, is strengthened by horizontal beams, and the walls completely wainscoted with carved oak. In the compartments are small Scripture pieces. Age, instead of diminishing the splendour of this apart- ment, has only added to its beauty ; the asperity of the carving has been softened, and the colour mellowed into a hue of almost ebony blackness. The other rooms of the castle are worthy of a visit, but lose much of their interest in the mind of the antiquary, from being denuded of their ancient furniture and decorations, and being restored in a jnore modem, and pro- bably more comfortable style. Some of the pictures are of great value and interest, among which may be enumerated : — Portraits by Vandyke, of Charles I. and his Queen ; by Sir P. Lely, of James II. and his Queen, the Duchess of Portsmouth and her son the first Duke of Richmend, and Talbot Duke of Tyrconnel and daughters. The finest picture is that by Albert Durer, a small altar-piece representing the Nativity, Adoration, and Circum- cision. This painting, it appears, was the property of the *' Beauteous, hapless Mary," and said to have been originally in that unfortunate Queen's oratory at Holyrood. Charles II. afterwards purchased it for £2000, and presented it to the Duchess of Portsmouth, when she stood in high favour at Court. The Lordship of Malahide was granted by Henry II. to Richard Talbot^ MALAHIDE. 6 1 an ancestor of the present proprietor, and the eldest representative of Sir Geof&ey Talbot, who held Hereford Castle against King Stephen for the Empress Maud, and one of the adventurous knights who had letters of patent for the acquisition of land in Ireland. He was a contemporary of Sir Armoric de Valence, who founded Howth Castle, and it is supposed that the families of Talbot and St. Lawrence are the only descendants of the adventurers who still hold the property won by their ancestors' swords. Ma LA HIDE Abbey is an interesting ruin of a clmrch in tlie Gothic style of arcHtectnre, containing a well-executed "window. Tlie ancient moat is filled up, and transformed into a sloping bank, decorated witli sknibs. Stately timber everywhere decorates the park, and the sea -view which the castle commands will be prized by the visitor. The island of Lambay is a conspicuous object in the prospect. It rises boldly from the sea about 3 miles to seaward. The ruins of an ancient fortress which defended it were some years ago transformed into a shooting-box by Lord Talbot. The abbey was for ages the place of sepulture of the holders of the castle, and an altar-tomb in the centre of the ruin wiU attract attention, from the pgure of a female in antiquated dress sculptured upon it. The story told of the occupant of the tomb is one of interest, illustrating the mutability of hu- man affairs. The daughter of Lord Pluhkett was betrothed to the youthful Lorn Galtrim, and already had the day of their nuptials arrived, when the sound of the trumpet called the bridegroom from the altar to head his followers against a marauding party. When evening came, the soldiers returned, but bore their lord upon a bier. Thus the lady in one day was — "Maid, wife, and widow." She was afterwards twice married, her third husband being Sir Richard Talbot of Malahide. SWORDS, a small but ancient town, lies about 3 miles to the west of Malahide, and is of interest to the antiquary. The combination of ruins at Swords is very curious. There is a round tower, one of the most perfect in Ireland, of whose erection no annals speak, an abbey frequently plundered by the Danes, and an old castle, formerly the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, pleasantly overlooking a clear rivulet. The round tower, the upper portion of which has been restored, is about 73 feet in height 62 DROGHEDA. LUSK, 5 miles nortli of Malaliide by railway, lias a very ancient parish cliurcli and small common belonging to it. At the west end of the church is a curious steeple, more resembling a portion of a fortress. It is defended by battle- ments and round towers at three angles, while adjacent to the fourth comer stands one of the prehistoric round towers. On the floor of the church is the fine monument of Sir Christopher Barnewall of Turvey. The stone-roofed crypt under the steeple led Grose to attribute the foundation of the church to the Ostmen. DKOGHEDA (Imperial Hotel), an hour and a half's drive by rail from Dublin, is situated on the famous river Boyne, population, 14,389. The religious denominations of the town in 1871 consisted of 912 English Episcopal, 246 Protestant Dissenters, and 13,231 Eoman Catholics. The town was formerly walled in, and considerable portions of its walls, with two of its gates, still remain as ruins. St. Laurence's Gate, on the northern side of the river, is a very perfect specimen ; and the West Gate, on the southern or Meath side, forms a most picturesque ruin. It is expected, and not without reason, that Drogheda will yet assume a more important position as a seaport. Its harbour is good, and its position almost exactly opposite Liverpool, which is only 133 miles distant. The tourist from the south will find here the first indication of the extensive linen manu- factories which peculiarly distinguish the north of Ireland. Associated with Drogheda are the histories of the memorable siege by Cromwell, and the '* Battle of the Boyne." In 1649 Cromwell landed at Dublin with an army of 12,000 men besides artillery. Drogheda was the first place he attacked. It was garrisoned at the time by 2800 men, commanded by the brave Sir Arthur Aston. The assailants were twice gallantly repulsed, but the third attack, led by Cromwell in person, was successful, and then commenced that indiscriminate slaughter which has rendered the name of the Protector one of execration throughout Ireland. Drogheda contains numerous military and ecclesiastical remains. The most remarkable of the latter is St. Mary's Church, or abbey, founded in the reign of Edward I. It THE BOYNE. 63 was originally a convent for Carmelites, and called St. Mary's of Mount Carmel ; very expressive of its situation, being erected on the most elevated part of the southern division of the town, and occupying the south-east angle of the town wall, now spanning a dirty lane. In an equally wretched portion of the town, but on the northern side, is situated the Magdalen Steeple, being the only existing remains of the church of the Dominican Friary, where the Irish chiefs submitted to Eichard II. The Battle op the Boyne. — This historic river rises near the village of Carbery, in the county of Kildare, 289 feet above the level of the sea, out of one of the holy wells so numerous in Ireland, and, after being increased by a number of tributaries, joins the Blackwater at Navan, whence the two flow conjointly to the harbour of Drogheda. A walk of a mile from Drogheda along the north side of the river as far as the Obelisk on the battlefield of the Boyne, will t'jilly reward the tourist. It was here that, on the 1st July 1690, the celebrated battle was fought between the Prince of Orange and his father-in-law James II. William landed at Carrickfergus, and was on his way to Dublin when the t own of Drogheda, then in the hands of the Irish, barred his further progress, and here James gave him battle. On Hearing the obelisk a road will be seen on the right hand, up what appears to be a little valley. Down this road it is said the English troops marched and crossed the Boyne, attacking the Irish army, which was stationed on the south side of the river. The armies were believed to be nearly equal in strength — i.e. about 30,000 each. The loss is estimated at 500 kiUed of William's troops, and 1000 of James's. William had nearly met with his death before the engagement. Having advanced with some officers within gunshot of the Irish camp, Berwick, Tyrconnel, Sarsfield, and some other generals riding slowly on the opposite banksj viewing the army in their march, soon discovered the present situation of the king. A party of forty horse immediately 64 THE BOYNE. appeared in a plonglied field opposite to the place where lie was. In their centre they carefully concealed two field- pieces, which they planted unnoticed under cover of a hedge, and retired. William mounted his horse. At that moment the first discharge killed a man and two horses on a line, at some distance, with the king. Another ball instantly succeeded, grazed on the banks of the river, rose, and slanted on his right shoulder, tearing his coat and fiesh. " James II. displayed but little courage in this memorable battle. He abandoned the field even before the battle was decided, and made a ride o^ unexampled rapidity through Ireland. In a few hours he reached the castle of Dublin, and in the following day he rode to Waterford, a distance of 100 English miles. Nevertheless James sought to throw the whole blame of the whole defeat on the Irish. On arriving at the castle of Dublin, he met the Lady Tyrconnel, a woman of ready wit, to whom he exclaimed, * Your countrymen, the Irish, madam, can run very fast, it must be owned,' * In this, as in every other respect, your majesty surpasses them, for you have won the race,' was the merited rebuke of the lady." — Kohl's Ireland. An obelisk 150 feet in height, on a rocky foundation, marks the spot where William commenced the attack, as also where Schomberg felL The inscription, which has been objected to as sectarian in its sentiments, runs as follows : — Sacred to the glorious memory of King William the Third, who, on the 1st of July 1690 passed the river near this place to attack James the Second at the head of a Popish army, advantageously posted on the south side of it, and did on that day, by a single battle, secure to us, and to our posterity, our liberty, laws, and religion. In consequence of this action James the Second left this kingdom and fled to France, This mem^ of our deliverance was erected in the 9th year of the reign of King George the Second, the first stone being laid by Lionel Sackville, Duke of Dorset J Lord Lieutenant of the Kingdom of Ireland. 1736. A bridge crosses the river near the obelisk. Donore Church, where James stood during the action, is a ruin occupying a piece of rising groimd on the south side of the river. The grave of Caillemote, the leader of the French Protestants, is pointed out at a little distance from the field. It is marked by two elm-trees. Apart from all historical interest the vale of the Boyne is really an MOXASTERBOICE enchanting spot, and one likely to subdue the bitter feelings of those of either persuasion who visit. The tourist may proceed from this point to New Grange 4 miles, and Slane 8 miles by road. They are described below. ANTIQUARIAN EXCURSIONS from DROGHEDA. MoNASTERBOiCE, a Celebrated assemblage of ecclesias- tical remains, about 4| miles north of Drogheda by road, will well repay a visit. Enclosed within a churchyard of modest dimensions, and standing quite solitary in the midst of fields, are the ruins of t^^o chapels, a handsome round tower, and two elaborately sculptured stone crosses. It is impossible to fix the dates of the chapels with any degree of certainty. One is evidently not much older than the church-building tweKth century ; but the other is undoubtedly much more ancient. Seward says — ** There are two stone crosses at the south side of the church, the principal of which, called St. Boyne's Cross, is the most ancient religious relique now in Ireland. Among the rude sculptures there is an inscription on it^in Irish characters, in which is plainly legible the name of Muredach, who was for some time king of Ireland, and died in 534, about 100 years after the arrival of St. Patrick." The abbey, it would seem, however, was founded by St. Boetius, who died in 521. The round tower is 110 feet high, its circumference near the ground about 50 feet, diminishing gradually from the base, like a Tuscan pillar. The walls are 3 feet 6 inches thick, the door is 5 feet 6 inches in height, 22 inches in width, and 6 feet from the present level of the ground. It is arched and built of freestone, as are also the windows of the chapel. The diameter of the tower on the inside is 9 feet, and above the door it is divided into five storeys by slightly projecting rings of stone. The summit of the tower has been shattered, it is said, by lightning. The principal cross is 27 feet inheight» and is composed of two stones. The shafts are divided into compartments, ornamented with figures. When describing the compartments, Kohl notices one representing " a couple of harpers in Paradise," and adds — " I suppose no Irishman of the olden time would have thought Paradise complete without his beloved national instrument." ** Oh ! give me one strain Of that wild harp again, In melody proudly its own, Sweet harp of the days that are gone." — Loyeb. F 66 NEW GRANGE. jMellifont Abbey, founded in 1142 by O'Carrol, prince of Orgiel, for Angustinian monks, is about three miles to the west of Monasterboice, and five and a half from Drogheda. Both places may be conveniently visited in one excursion. At the Dissolution it is said to have contained a hundred and forty monks. The abbey and its possessions were given to Sir Gerald Moore, ancestor of the Marquesses of Drogheda. In 1 142, Cardinal Papiro is said to have held his famous synod within its walls. "It is certain," writes Seward, "that, in 1157, a synod was held here, at which the monarch, the King of Ullidia, the prince of Breffai, and the prince of Orgiel assisted, when the great church was consecrated, and amongst other offerings 180 oz. of gold and a gold chalice were presented." The same author further adds — " Here was a fine Gothic doorway into the chapel all of blue marble, richly ornamented and gilt, as also a beautiful octagonal bath, or more properly baptistery, standing near it, but these were sold and destroyed." The baptistry, as it now stands, is a space of about 29 feet, enclosed by walls supported on circular-headed arches of sandstone. St. Bernard's Chapel is a very fine example of the Early English style before the arches had lost all of their rounded character, and yet began to be influenced by the pointed span of the Gothic style. This last portion is undoubtedly much newer than the baptistry, which is somewhat similar to the Eoman remains at York New Grange may be gained by following the north side of the Boyne past the battlefield for about 4 miles. Tumuli exist in various spots in the neighbourhood, and that of New Grange, explored in 1699, will well repay a visit. A quantity of stones formerly lay at the bottom of the mound, and were in the course of being removed by a gentleman for the purpose of repairing the road, when he came to " a very broad flat stone rudely carved, and placed edgeways at the bottom of the mount." This excited his curiosity, and excavations were made, resulting in the careful exploration of the interior. A passage of nearly sixty feet, very low, but roofed and walled with stone slabs, conducts into the centre chamber. Three little SLAXE. 67 recesses originally contained basins, wlietlier for the pur- pose of ablution or not it is difficult to determine. One basin, scooped out of solid stone, is still perfect, and another remains in a mutilated state. The cave contains many mementoes of the past in carving upon the stones. Conjectures have been rife as to the object of these chambered tumuli. It will be sufficient to state that by antiquaries they are supposed to have been for sepulture, sacrifice, or for hiding treasure. Dr. Wilde regards this stupendous relic of Pagan times as " probably one of the oldest Celtic monuments in the world, which has elicited the wonder, and called forth the admiration, of all who have visited it." Close to this there is another cavern, containing four holes or windows, and eight niches round the inside. It can be explored by crawling on all fours. Slane, three miles further by road, and about eight miles from Drogheda, can also be reached by rail from Drogheda by stopping at Beauparc Station. Though now a small village, Slane, in the time of Hugh de Lacy, was a place of some note, being one of the boroughs in his pala- tiaate of Meath. The hermitage of St. Ere, which lies south of the town near the river, in the dark shade of a grove of ancient yew-trees, and one of the most romantic of ruins, takes its name from St. Ere, the first Bishop of Slane, who was consecrated by St. Patrick, and died in 514, and was occupied in 1512 by two hermits named O'Brien. Near the hermitage is the princely seat of the Marquis of Conyngham, Slane Castle, standing upon a green bank rising from and overlooking the river. During his visit to Ireland ia 1821, George IV. spent some days in the castle. Slane was amongst the places in Ireland earliest visited by St. Patrick, the first successful missionary in the country. A fine spring of water, called Lady Well^ situate on the lower walk near the hermitage, is resorted to by many zealous catholics for the efficacy of its waters in certain skin diseases. The ruias of the abbey now form a picturesque object in the demesne of Slane Castle; DuLEEK, easily readied from Drogheda by rail, four and a half miles, is contiguous to tlie station wHch bears its name, seven miles from Slane. In tbe reign of Edward III., Theobald de Vernon held the estate and manor. Its ancient name was Damhleac — i.e. the house of stone — and was celebrated for having been the first stone church built in Ireland. It w^as erected by St. Patrick in the 5th century, and was frequently plundered by the Danes. The village is situated on the river Nanny. The portions of the Priory now standing are of various dates and aspects. The tower is tolerably entire. Duleek played its part in the war of 1690, and a bridge erected in 1587 is pointed out as the spot where the cannon of James were placed. Navan, twelve miles further on by the same line of rail, is sixteen miles west of Drogheda. The town, which is of considerable antiquity, consists of two principal streets crossing each other at right angles. It w^as walled round by Hugh de Lacy. There are, however, no buildings of any note in the town — the " Tholsel," or to^vn-house is the principal. In the burial-ground are the remains of some ancient tombs, with figures in alto-relievo ; and the pre- sent barrack occupies the site of the old abbey. It is not known whether this abbey existed before the 1 2th century or not. In the immediate vicinity of Navan are the ruins of Donaghmore church, with its accompanying round tower 70 feet in height and 12 in diameter. The remains at Clady, Kilcarn, Liscarton, and Scarloughstown, will fully repay a visit, but more especially TAEA, about six and a haK miles south of Navan, by road crossing the Boyne by Kilcarn bridge. To the ordinary observer Tara presents nothing more than a smaU conical hill abruptly truncated, surrounded wdth undulat- ing mounds covered with grass ; but to the student of history and antiquities it calls into existence the magnifi- cent palace of the monarch Cormac, with his retinue of 150 brave champions and 1050 soldiers, his bards, Druids, TARA. 69 and lawgivers. It recalls the earliest efforts of St. Patrick, the assemblies of the states, and the ancient prehistoric civilisation of Ireland. *'Here it is supposed," writes the matter-of-fact Seward, "there was anciently a magnificent royal palace, the residence of the kings of Ireland, where triennial parliaments were held, in which all the nobility, gentry, priests, etc., assembled, and here laws were enacted and repealed, and the general advantage of the nation consulted. It is certain that some writers have disputed that any building of lime and stone was ever erected on this spot at the time we speak of ; but the fact is positively insisted on by many others. This place is otherwise called Teamor, from Teagh mor, or the great house, or Teagh-mor-Eagh, the great house of the king, and much celebrated in ancient Irish history. Certain it is that this h11| was the NaasteigJian, whereon the states assembled for several ages — that is, from the beginning of the first to the middle of the sixth century ; from which period we hear no more of the general convention of the states, but each province was governed by its own local ordinances." Recent investigations have brought very little to light, but that little has tended to confirm the account just given. Moore's celebrated lines aptly describe the altered fortunes of this historic spot : — " The harp that once through Tara's halls The soul of music shed. Now hangs as mute on Tara's walls. As if that soul were fled. ** So sleeps the pride of former days. So glory's thrill is o'er ; And hearts that once beat high for praise Now feel that pulse no more. " No more to chiefs and ladies bright The harp of Tara swells ; The chord alone that breaks at night Its tale of ruin tells. " The last of the great national assemblies at Tara took place in the year 554, during the reign of King Diarmid. But here also, on the 1st of August 1843, O'Connell held one of his monster meetings. Kells, twelve miles west of Navan, and twenty-six from Drogheda by rail ; can also be reached from Dublin direct from Broadstone station — this saves an hour over the 70 KELLS. Drogheda route. It is pleasantly gltuated about three- quarters of a mile from the Blackwat^r, and is one of the most remarkable places in early Irish ecclesiastical history. It was anciently called Kenlis. About 550 St. Columb- kille founded a monastery for canons regular, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, of which no trace now remains. The site is said to have been granted to him by " Dermot Mac- Carval, or Dermod the son of Kervail, king of Ireland," who afterwards proved to be the sworn foe of the saint, and a man of fierce passions. Columbkille was born in Ireland in the year 521, of a royal race, being a lineal descendant in the fourth generation from Niall of the Nine Hostages. It is said that he was baptized Criomthan, a statement borne out by the poetic legend, translated by Keating : — "The pious Christian hero Collumcille When he was baptized received the name Of Criomtham Oluin ; his guardian angel Was the most watchful Axall." This saint is said to have founded three hundred monas- teries in Ireland before proceeding to Britain. The reader need hardly be informed that the monastic ruins of famed lona owe their origin to him. Bede says — " Columba, arrived in Britain in the ninth year of Brude, the son of Meilochan, king of the Picts, who was a potent king, and whose subjects were, by his preaching and example, con- verted to the Christian faith. On this account he obtained from them the above-mentioned island as a demesne for his monastery." A castle was erected in the market-place of Kells in 1178, "and opposite the castle was a cross of an entire stone, one of the most beautiful remains of this description in the country, ornamented with bas-relief figures, and inscriptions in the ancient Irish character." Not far from the church is a round tower 99 feet high, with a conical summit, and four windows facing the cardinal points. In the reign of Richard I. a priory was erected by Walter de Lacy, Lord of Meath, " for cross-bearers, or crouched friars following the order of St. Augustine." There was also a perpetual chantry of three chaplains in the parish to celebrate daily mass— one in St. Mary's chapel, another in the chapel of the Rood, and a third in that of St. Catherine the Virgin. 71 DUBLIN TO KINGSTOWN AND DALKEY. By Rail from Westland.Row Station, every haK hour. The line to Kingstown, whicli was opened on the 1 7th of December 1834, was constructed at an expense of £340,000, and affords one of the most agreeable of railway journeys. The stations are Booterstown, Sydney Parade, Blackrock (a famous bathing spot), Seapoint, and Salt-hill or Monkstown ; places which form pleasant suburban retreats for the Dublin citizens. A drive of forty minutes along the margin of Dublin Bay brings us to the lively harbour of KINGSTOWN. Hotels. — ^Boyal Marine— Anglesea Arms — Boyal Haxbour (and Boarding House). Much of the prosperity of this town is to be attributed to the facilities which it presents for the reception of packets from England, which arrive and depart several times a-day. It is situated on the south side of Dublin Bay, on a dangerous coast, where, previous to the comple- tion of the now admirable lighthouse arrangements, many serious accidents occurred. In the Harbour, we never fail to see one of the packets lying in waiting for the time of sailing. The refuge harbour is not unlike that at Howth in form, but embraces an area of 250 acres. The depth of water varies from 13 to 27 feet. A revolving light, visible every half-minute for about nine miles distant, is placed on the eastern pier. This harbour was declared by the Tidal Harbour Commissioners to be " one of the most splendid artificial ports in the United Kingdom." The granite of which it is composed was obtained at Killiney Hill. The town is well built, con- sisting of several streets and terraces. George Street is half-a-miLe in length, and well built. The population numbers about 12,000. An obelisk, raised on a mass of 72 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. rock-work, surmonnted hj a sculptured crown, cominemoiv ates the visit of George IV. Two miles fiirtlier is DALKET, a town wMch certainly has now shared to a considerable extent in the prosperity of Kingstown, although at one time ranking higher in importance. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, Dalkey was a port much used by the Dublin merchants, who found it safer to have their goods landed there than allow their ships to venture into Ithe bay, and attempt the passage of the Liffey. In the town and neighbourhood are numerous remains, of greater or less extent, of castles and fortified places all found necessary to defend the town and harbour against the incursions of Irish pirates, who at one time swarmed in the channel At a short distance from the mainland is situated. Dalkey Island, the sound between which and the land is said to be somewhere about eight fathoms deep at the lowest tide. In this nook, ships may be perfectly safe from the north-east winds which effect the bay.. The island contains about eighteen acres, mostly pasture. The ruin of an old church, and what has been called a Druid's altar, are met with on the island. In the neighbourhood of Dalkey are many pleasant villas. KILLINEY HILL, situated close to Dalkey, is from its position a noticeable feature in the landscape, although rising only 472 feet above the sea. A Druidical circle exists not far from it, in a field beyond Mount Druid property. A pyramidal pillar at Ballybrack marks the spot where the young Duke of Dorset was killed by a fall from his horse, when out hunting with Lord Powerscourt's hounds. On the north side of the hill are extensive granite quarries. Dublin Bay, as viewed from this hill, is generally allowed to be one of the finest sights in Ireland. In the foreground we have a succession of rocks and trees, with Kingstown appearing beyond them, the railway station, obelisk, and harbour being conspicuous objects ; a little further into the bay stretches the south wall of the Liffey, ^vith a lighthouse at the end of it ; while beyond this, the level shore of the bay is seen ending in the rugged peninsula of Howth. Those who think the toil of ascending the Hill of Killiney too great, will find it worth while to hire a car for the purpose of enjoying the delightful views which can be obtained from the summit of the hilL The railway continues 5 miles further along the coast to Bray, passing on the way Killiney and Ballybrack stations. 73 DUBLIN TO BRAy. BRAY AND THE WICKLOW MOUNTAINS. Bray, 12 miles by rail from Dublin (Hotels— Marine, situated between the station and sea-beach; International, Quinsborough Road. Card of charges on application. ) Cab fares from Bray Station. For two persons. For three or more persons. To the Dargle - - - - Waterfall Glen of the Downs Delgany Greystones - - - s. d. 1 5 3 3 3 2 6 s. d. 2 4 4 4 3 4 A large range of Turkish Baths was erected here by Mr. Dargan, bnt has been converted into assembly and reading-rooms, etc. The name of this headland is supposed to have been derived from Breagh, brother of the hero Edar, who gave his name to the Hill of Howth. The town is rising fast into importance as a tourists' station, from its proximity to the Dargle, the Glen of the Downs, and the Devil's Glen^ and from the facility with which it can be reached from Dublin, either direct by road — a distance of about twelve or thirteen miles — or by railway. The population is nearly four thousand. Bray Head is situated some distance from the town, and from it is obtained a most admirable view, embracing to the north KilHney Bay, Howth, and the Moume Moun- tains ; to the west the toA\Ti of Bray, backed by the Sugar Loaves and Shankhill Mountain ; and to the south Wick- low Head. The Welsh mountains are said to be sometimes discernible in the horizon in clear weather. In the neighbourhood of Bray are Kilruddery, the noble mansion of the Earl of Meath, built in the Elizabethan style, and situated in a beautifully undulating park ; besides Bray Head demesne, now" a Loretto convent ; Old Court, the 74 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. residence of Mr. Edwards, witli tlie ruin of De Eiddesford's Castle in the pleasure-grounds ; Hollybrook, another Elizabethan mansion, the residence of Sir G. F. Hodson, Bart. , Wingfield, the property of !Mr. Darley ; and at the other end of the Glen of the Downs, Bellevue, the seat of P. Latouche, Esq. The Dargle and Powerscourt may be conveniently visited from Bray. A description of these places will be found below. From Bray the railway continues to Wicklow and Enniscorthy. BRAY TO THE DARGLE, POWERSCOURT, GLEN OF THE DOWNS, ETC. Dargle. Enniskerry. Powerscourt Demesne. Waterfall. Glencree. Loughs Bray. Sally Gap. Luggala. Lough Tay. Ballinasloe Inru Glen of the Downs. In all about 30 miles. The tourist making Bray his head-quarters will find abundant amusement in excursions which may be made from that place. The above excursion, which exhausts all the objects of interest round Bray, may be accomplished in one day by car. Soon after leaving Bray, the Dargle is entered on foot and followed to Enniskerry,"^ 3 m., and Powerscourt, where the cars should be in waiting. From Powerscourt a good road proceeds to the Waterfall, and through Glencree, to the barrack of that name, from which Loughs Bray may be visited, and the military road taken as far as Sally Gap, where, instead of going right on, we take the road to the left, and passing Luggala Lodge and Lough Tay, join the Enniskerry and Bound wood road, about two and a quarter miles from the latter place. This road must then be followed northwards for nearly a mile and a half, when we turn at a right angle to the east, and reach Ballinastoe, where refreshments may be procured. * Cars wait here for Powerscourt, for which a pass should be obtained beforehand from the agency here. Hotel : Powerscourt j THE DARGLE. 75 From here we must pursue our journey to Hermitage and Glendaragh, situate to the north of Newtown Mount Kennedy, and thence by the Glen of the Downs (page 80) to Bray. The distance in all will be nearly thirty nulesi Those who wish to see the Glen of the Downs without ex- tending the journey may drive direct thither from Bray. The waterfall and demesne of Powerscourt may also have one entire day devoted to them. THE DAEGLE. This name is applied to a long glen, through which the river Dargle flows, until it meets Enniskerry river, and thenceforth the united pair form Bray river. The river Dargle takes its rise in Crockan Pond, a hill 1770 feet high, and situated about six or seven miles from Enniskerry. On its way it skirts the War Hill, 2250, and romes close to the Roundwood high road, where one of its tributaries, forming Powerscourt Waterfall, tumbles wildly down the mountain side. The river flows north through the old deer-park of Powers- court, and, on leaving it, receives the river of Glencree ; when it becomes the boundary between the seats of Lords Monck and Powerscourt. iMr. Grattan's property of Tkme- hinch is next enlivened by it, where the vale suddenly contracts into a narrow ravine. The length of the glen is about a mile, and the height of some portions of the en- closing wall of rocks exceeds 300 feet. These precipitous rocks are, moreover, beautifully clothed vnth native wild wood and graceful fern. Many parties prefer to enter the glen at the lower end, and leave it at the upper, and not a few will prefer spending the entire summer day in such a shady retreat, particularly if the heat be oppressive on the roads. The view of the glen from above is exceedingly beautiful ; exhibiting a rare combination of rugged rock, foliage of every tint and form, and the silvery stream underneath. " It is a fine example of a wooded ravine, and is exceedingly beautiful. The banks on either side, parti- cularly on the right bank of the river, rise in some places 76 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIJST. to the height of three hundred feet, the slopes being com- pletely covered with the liveliest and greenest woods. It is like some of the more wooded glens of our Scottish streams, but softer and richer. Perhaps it comes nearest the character of the Wye, but is on a smaller scale. The river that flows through it is inconsiderable, but large enough to yield the charms both of sight and sound to the traveller, as he treads his shaded path on the brow of the steep above it."* One of the best stations for a view of the glen is known as the Lover's Leap, situated at the head of the glen, and easy of access from the main path. The whole, or nearly the whole of the glen and its neighbour- hood, is observable from that point. POWEESCOURT, 4 miles from Bray, and 3 miles from Enniskerry (open on Mondays and Tuesdays — an order from agency at Enniskerry required on other days), is further up the glen. It is the property of the family of Wingfield. It is due to this family to mention that scarcely any in Ire^ land enjoy so much of the goodwill and respect of the pea- santry. The late Lord Powerscourt was a constant resident in the country. A curious instance of the respect for a resident landlord occurred during the terrible rebellion in 1798. Lord Powerscourt, despising the cowardice of those landlords who thought they could not be safe unless shel- tered in the capital, fortified his mansion, and to prove his reliance upon his tenantry, formed them into a yeomanry to the number of a hundred, and with their assistance pre- served family and property. Holt, the famous rebel- general, suiTendered to Lord Powerscourt. The mansion, finely placed upon a terrace, is built of granite ; it is plain, large, and truly baronial in appearance. Among the apart- ments, which are very spacious, is the grand saloon, eighty feet by forty, where George IV. was entertained on his visit to Ireland in 1821. The land appertaining to the demense of Powerscourt is estimated at 26,000 English * Sir Joliii Forbes. Memorandums made in Ireland THE WATERFALL. 77 acres, but the enclosed grounds do not exceed 800 acres It has frequently changed hands since first becoming Eng- lish property. De la Poer, a knight in Strongbow's com- pany, was the first English possessor, and by him the castle was built. In the reign of Henry YIIL the castle was taken by the fierce O'Byrnes and O'Tooles of WickJow ; and, being retaken by the English, was conferred upon the Talbots. Another Irish clan, the Kavanaghs, obtained possession of it in 1556. In 1608 the property was given by James I. to Sir R. Wingfield, who was created Viscount Powerscourt in 1618, since which time the peerage has twice become extinct, and was revived for the second time in 1743 in favour of the present peer's ancestor. the' waterfall, 4 miles from Powerscourt and 8 miles from Bray, is regarded by some as a splendid sight, and by others as a mere plaything. When seen after a succession of wet days and nights, it has indeed some title to magnificence. In very dry weather the stream is defi- cient in quantity, and descends along the face of the cliff. In the immediate vicinity of the cascade, is a grassy nook much resorted to by pic-nic parties. It is related that on the occasion of George IV.'s visit to Powerscourt, a large tank was dug in the top of the hill, in order to ensure a good flow before royalty, but that his majesty did not find it convenient to visit the obliging waterfall. TIXNEHINCH HOUSE, half a mHe from Powerscourt on the Dargle, is the property of the descendants of the patriot and orator Henry Grattan. The Irish Parliament, appreciating the noble exertions of this wonderful man, purchased the property for him, in order that he might end in peace a life which had been so laborious. CHARLEVILLE, the handsome seat of Viscount Monck, closely adjoins those of Lord Powerscourt and Mr. Grattan. From this point, if time permitted, the tourist would enjoy a drive up Glencree 78 EXCURSIONS fhom Dublin. GLENCREE joins the Dargle at the wooden bridge. At the head of the Glen will be seen Glencree Barracks, a solitary building occupied in the memorable '98 as a military station, but now used as a Roman Catholic Reformatory. It would be a variation of the road to send the conveyance round to Lough Bray Cottage, where, after a quiet walk up the glen, and a visit to the Loughs Bray, upper and lower, under the hill of Kippure (2473 feet), the tourist could join it, and then take the military road as far as Sally Gap, where, adopting the left-hand road, a wild uninhabited region is passed over to the east of Luggala and Lough Tay, and then join the road about two and a quarter miles from Roundwood. By taking this detour, the car will require to travel about twenty miles from Bray to Roundwood, instead of thirteen by the regular road. LOUGHS BRAY, Upper and Lower, are situate on the side of the ridge of Kippure, one mile south of Glencree Barracks. The former, which is a dreary mountain-tarn, covers an area of 28 acres, at an elevation of 1453 feet above the sea. The situation of the lower lake is highly picturesque, being backed by rocks and crags of most fantastic shapes, relieved by the beauti- ful rustic cottage of Lough Bray, and its cultivated grounds, which extend to the margin of the lake. Kippure rises 1450 feet above the lower lake. Continuing still onward, we pass Crokan Pond to our left, and reach SALLY GAP, where the road to Blessington turns oflT at an acute angle to the right, and that to Luggala at an obtuse angle to the left, the direct military road to Laragh proceeding in a straight course before us. Blessington is about eleven miles from Sally Gap, or twenty-eight from Dublin. It is a market and post town, consisting of one well-built street, the work of Archbishop Boyle. The late Countess of Blessington, whose maiden name was Power, and who became so well known in the literary world, was bom at Curragheen in the county of Waterford, and married Charles John Gardiner, the last Earl of Blessington, who died in 1829. Blessington Park, the property of the Marquis of Downshire, is situated close by the town. A pleasant divergence of the route from Glencree to Roundwood is to take a by-path over the face of a hill to the right, which leads to a fine view of Lough Tay. It is somewhat difficult to find the path without assistance ; inquiry should therefore be made whenever the opportunity occurs. The pedestrian enters a field by a stile, and ascends in the direction of a larch plantation, which he passes on his left, and keeps a regular foot- path in the direction of the head of a valley, which appears on the same side ; crosses the head of this valley, and by a continuation of the same path, passes over the next mountain shoulder, until he comes in sight of Lough Tay, and discovers an extensive prospect spread out before him. Far under his feet is a plantation of larches, and at the west end of the nook he over- looks the Annamoe River, which conveys the surplus water from Lough LOUGH DAN. 79 Tay to Lough Dan, of which he catches jnst a glimpse in the mountain cage which encloses it The house to the northern end of the lake, embosomed in trees and shruhs, and surrounded with grass sward, whose verdure contrasts strangely with the brown sterility around it, is LUGGALA LODGE * the property of Lord Powerscouxt. Moore's beautiful song, beginning Tsith the line " No, not more welcome the fairy numbers," was written to a very old air known as " Luggala." " On the eastern side of the valley was formerly one of those extraordinary drmdical remains called a ^ rocking stone/ used by the artful arch-druid for oracular purposes. A large stone was placed upon the top of another, so balanced that the smallest effort would shake it, and was supposed to be self-moved in the presence of a guilty person. In some cases, as on the Three Eock Mountains, in the county of Dublin, the culprit was placed under the stone, which was made to vibrate over his head, and threaten death at every instant. In the year 1800, a party of military passing this mountain dislodged the rocking-stone from its pedestal, and it now lies some yards from its original position, deprived unfortunately of its powers of motion.'* t LOUGH TAY receives its supply of water principally from the river Annamoe, which, just before entering it, falls down a rock close beside Luggala Lodge. It is situ- ated about 807 feet above the sea, is circular in form, about half a mile in diameter, and a mile and a half in circumference. The glen in whose upper end this lake is placed is about ten mUes in length, extending to Laragh. LOUGH DAN is situated two miles further down the glen, and has an elevation of 685 feet, beiag 122 feet lower than Lough Tay. It is a larger lake, and receives a portion of its supply from the Avonmore. This lake is surrounded with wild hills covered with heath and furze, the hill on its northern side being Knocknacloghole, 1754 feet; on the east Slievebuckh, 1581 feet. * Jfass required from agency at Ennisiserry. f Wright's Wicklow. 80 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. EOUNDWOOD {Hotels : Murpli/s ; Realty's), originally named Togha, is a small hamlet possessing little interest to the tourist save as a resting-place, with, two good country inns, where post horses can be had. It is also a good fish- ing station for the neighbouring lochs and streams. The town is situated in the midst of an immense tract of table land, about 700 feet above the sea. Tithewar, the seat of Mr. Nuttall, is near Koundwood, and is well planted. The reservoir for the supply of the new Dublin water-works, is situate near the village. It was constructed in 1863 by enclosing the waters of the Vartry. From here the tourist may return to Bray, either direct via the Dargle, a distance of about 14 miles, or round by Mount Kennedy (page 73), through the Glen of the Downs (page 80), about 17 miles. If it is not necessary to return to Bray the same day, he may also proceed to Annamoe (page 83), and the Seven Churches (page 85). The tourist who does not follow the route by Sally Gap, described in small print, but who, after visiting Powers- court and the Waterfall, proceeds direct to the Glen of the Downs, will take the road which turns to the left round the southern base of the Sugar Loaf (1659 feet), and, passing Glen Cottage, arrive at THE GLEN OF THE DOWNS. The glen is about a mile and a half in length, and 150 feet in width. For a considerable distance it runs along the foot of the Downs Mountain, which rises 1232 feet. The sides of the glen rise somewhat abruptly to a height of about 600 feet, and being closed with a dense covering of copsewood, a rich effect is produced. From the glen a view is obtained of the greater Sugar Loaf Mountain. There are two mountains bearing this name. These conical-shaped hills, which form a feature in Wicklow scenery, are said to have borne an Irish name meaning " the gilt spears," as they retained the light of the sun long after the rest of the landscape had been enveloped in the twilight, but their modern appel- lation is more matter of fact. The glen of the Downs is BRAY TO THE DEVIL'S GLiiiN. 81 visited from Dublin for tlie beauties of Mr Latouche's clemesiie of Bellevue here. The Turkish Pavilion and Octagon are well placed on the brow of the glen, and afford most extensive views of the surrounding country and the sea. From the Glen of the Downs, the drive back to Bray is ^ye miles. BRAY TO THE DEVIL'S GLEN, THE SEVEN CHURCHES, AND VALE OF OVOCA, By Railway to Rathnew Station. Itinerahy — Bray by RaO to Rathnew Station - - - » 151 miles. Rathnew by Car to Devil's Glen - - . . H „ Devil's Glen „ Annamoe - . - . 6 „ Annamoe „ Laragb (Seven Churches) - - 3 „ Laragh „ via Avonmore to Rathdrmn Station 7 „ Rathdrum ,, to Meeting of the Waters - - 4 ,, Meeting of the Waters by Rail, return to Bray - - 28 „ To accomplish the above excursion, the tourist must take an early train from Bray and proceed to Kathnew sta- tion. There a car may be had to proceed either direct to the Devil's Glen or to the village of Ashford, which is contiguous to the glen, and where there is a comfortable inn. Near the latter place are the classic grounds of Rosanna, where Mrs Tighe composed the well-known poem of Psyche, and now the seat of Mr Tighe. The estate is one of the best wooded in the coimty. Supposing we proceed direct from Rathnew to the glen, the road ascends gradually, with beautiful hedgerows on either side, till the gate of Ballycurry demesne is reached (3 miles). The car may pass the first gate, but at the second the traveller must alight and proceed on foot up THE DEVIL'S GLEN, about a mHe and a half in length, and watered by the river Vartrey, which forms a beautiful cascade at its upper extremity. The country above the waterfall is flat and dreary, and we can scarcely expect, in passing over it, to find such a romantic nook as that which we now refer to. The glen is somewhat like G 82 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. the Dargle in appearance, but more picturesque, of a more sombre cast, and on a grander scale— the rocks in some places rising 400 feet above the stream. The Devil's Glen, together with a great extent of land, stretching on one side to the sea, and reaching on the other from Eathdrum to Aughrim, Bally mores, and nearly to Arklow, was granted by the Earl of Pembroke to Lord Geoffrey de Monte- marisco, in exchange for the baronies of Forth and Bargy, in the county of Wexford. This territory was called by the Irish Mac-Morres's country — Lord Geoffrey himself having, in the year 1208, assumed the title of Mac-Morres, and the dignity of an Irish sovereign dynast. After the disgrace and banishment of Lord Geoffrey, his sons made scarcely any efforts to preserve this district, which was then of little value, being an uncultivated tract, remote from their usual places of residence, and inhabited by a few roving septs of semi-barbarians, who eventually established themselves in the Mac-Morres's country, and maintained possession until the seventeenth century. It latterly passed through the hands of the O'Briens, and the unfor- tunate Earl of Strafford, who received it from his patron Charles I. *^ By virtue of that grant. Earl Fitzwilliam at present enjoys a noble revenue from this part of the county Wicklow ; but the fee of the glen is divided be- tween Mr. Tottenham and Mr. Synge." In this glen, the redoubtable rebel Holt remained for some days, making preparations for the outbreak of 1798. "He appears, in more respects than one, during his short career, to have had the most marvellous escapes. Once, being wounded in the head, and finding himself surrounded by police, he boldly accosted one of them and enquired, ^ which way the army had gone V for that they * had robbed him of his hat and horse.' " After the defeat of the rebels, the glen be- came the hidiag-place of the scattered insurgents ; in order to get rid of whom it was found necessary to set fire to the timber, and the blackened stumps long bore witness to the extent of the conflagration. ANNAMOE. 83 The pathway up the glen follows the left bank of the stream. The first halting-place is the Siunmerhouse, above which a series of steps leads up to a sheK of the rock where a fine view of the glen is obtained. Leaving the Summer- house, and proceeding up the glen, the last gate is reached. Here we enter on a meadow, but keeping near the side of the stream, at a short distance the waterfall comes into view. The tourist will observe a space between two boulders known as King O'Toole's window, through which the fall may be seen to full advantage. Scrambling up the side of the glen till the top of the declivity is attained, a fine prospect bursts on the view, including the fall, and in the distance the Wicklow mountains, among which Lug- naquilla (3039 feet) is the most prominent. Ketuming by the same path to the car in waiting, the tourist may pro- ceed to the Seven Churches via Ashford (page 85). From this a drive of seven miles will take us to the village of ANNAMOE. — It is situated on the rivulet of the same name which issues out of Lough Dan. Little can be said about the few thatched houses which compose the village, save that the place is to a certain extent interesting ground on account of the accident which nearly deprived the world of Uncle Toby, the poor Lieutenant, and Corporal Trim. Living at the barracks of Wicklow, in 1720, Laurence Sterne says in his autobiography — " From thence we de- camped to stay haK a year with Mr. Featherston, a clergy- man, about seven miles from Wicldow, who being a relative of my mother's invited us to his parsonage at Animo. It was in this parish, during our stay, that I had that wonder- ful escape of falling through a mill-race whilst the mill was going, and of being taken out imhurt. The story is incre- dible, but known for truth in all that part of Ireland, where hundreds of common people flocked to see me." A ruined water-mill is still shewn as that which was the scene of the accident. Whilst on the bridge at Annamoe, it would be well to take a look across the valley to a green knoll, about a mile distant, on which are situated 84 KXCTJRSIONS FROM DUBLO. THE EUINS OF CASTLE KEVIN.— TMs was from time immemorial tlie stronghold of the CTooles, who, with the O'Bymes, held the greater part of Wicklow. There can be little doubt that the ground upon which St. Kevin built his churches was originally granted to him by the then chief of the O'Tooles, though the conditions of the grant, and the manner of raising the structures, are perhaps not altogether correctly stated in the old traditions, prose and verse, to be met with. The castle, which is now in ruins, if supposed to have been built by the O'Tooles some time in the twelfth century, and to have remained principally in their hands until the end of the thirteenth. A little further on is the villacre of LAEAGH. Guides are in abundance in this village, and if not wanted, may prova annoying, unless their services are peremptorily declined. It will be neces- sary, in the event of retaining one, to come to a clear understanding with him, before setting off in his company. On the site of an old barrack, which was pulled down a few years ago, a church, a school, a constabulary barrack, and a mill, have been built by the proprietor, IVIr. Barton, a landlord uniformly and justly esteemed in the country. The village itself is beautifully situated at a spot where the vales of Laragh, Clara, and Glendalough meet. We turn to the right, through the village, passing the beauti- ful little property of Derrybawn, so calLed from the moim< tain under which it is situated. GLENDALOUGH. 85 The road from Laragli now strikes westwards for a mile and a-jhalf, and passing the Seven Churches, on our left we reach GLENDALOUGH* {Hotel: Eoyal.) The vale of Glen- dalough, or " between the two lakes," is about three miles in length, and nowhere of any great width. If the tourist has time to spare, a pretty cascade, one or two minutes' walk from the inn, will be worthy of a visit. The hills which bound the valley on the north are Brockagh, Glendassan, and Comaderry (2296 feet). On the south, the boundaries are Derrybawn (1567 feet), Mullicap (2176 feet), and Lugduff (2148 feet). The river which feeds the lakes is the Gleneolo, which takes its rise in the mountains to the west. The vale is dark and cheerless even in summer, and being almost without a single tree, has a gloomy aspect. The principal attraction in the vale is the masa of ruins scattered over it, known by the name of THE SEVEN CHURCHES.— Many and curious are the traditions current, concerning the founder of a seat of learning in this lonely wilderness. One thread, however, runs through all the varied account. It appears that " he was bom in the year 498 ; was "baptized by St. Cronan ; received the first rudiments of his education from Petrocus ; was priested by Bishop Lugid. He was contemporary of Columbkille, and held constant intercourse with him, and other holy men of his day. He led a hermit life in an old place called Cluagn Duach, since called Glendalough (the valley of two loughs). He died on the 3d day of June 618, at the ag« of 120. The day of his death is yet commemorated in the place ^^jk patron. After his death, Dymnach, one of the lords of the surrounding territory, founded a cathedral church, with other buildings, which gradually sprung up into a city, the history of which is not extant, but the ruins exist, and tell its whereabouts, and attest the ancient legends." This much is authenticated history, but tradition fills up the rest, and asserts that poor Ke\dn was, like St. Anthony, tempted, though not by the father of evil, but by the lovely young Kathleen, who was so passionately enamoured of him, that she begged to be permitted even to live in sight of him, or, as the Irish poetically express it, " to look upon his shadow, to hear not even his • Glendalough and Seven Churches can be agreea"bly visited in one day from Wooden Bridge, by rail to Rathdrum, thence per car by Laragh and Clara, and home over the hill via Drumgoffi 86 EXCURSIONS FROM DT7BLIN. roice, but its echo," promising at the same time that she would " lie like a dog at his feet, take penance for his sins, as well as her own, and even in prayer forget her own soul for the good of his." But the saint was proof against Cupid, or at least sought safety in flight, being frequently overtaken by his devoted worshipper, till at last he found refuge from her eyes in the hollow on the face of the rock overhanging one of the lakes. Even here she followed him, although the dangers attending the path had aU but baffled him ; and when he awoke on his hard rocky couch in the morning, the blue eyes of the infatuated Kathleen gazed softly on him through the tears which were almost frozen in them. " 'Twas from Kathleen's eyes he flew, Eyes of most unholy blue I She had loved him well and long, Wished him hers, nor thought it wrong. Wheresoe'er the saint would fly. Still he heard her light foot nigh ; East or west, where'er he tum'd, StiU her eyes before him burned." — Moork. One would naturally expect that a man of such pure religious feelings would have combined pity with his piety, and have done something to re- cover the mind of Kathleen from its error ; but instead of that, the tradition makes him pitch her over the face of the rock into the water beneath, where she was drowned. " Ah 1 your saints have cruel hearts I Sternly from his bed he starts. And with rude repulsive shock, Hurls her from the beetling rock. Glendalough, thy gloomy wave Soon was gentle Kathleen's grave ! Soon the saint (but ah I too late) Felt her love and mourned her fate. "When he said ' heaven rest her soul !' Round the lake light music stole, And her ghost was seen to glide. Smiling o'er the fatal tide. "—Moore. The erection of the Seven Churches is generally ascribed to St. Kevin ; it is more probable, however, that he merely lived as a hermit in the loca- lity, having charge of an abbey which he founded on the spot. The origin of the city, and its celebrity as a seat of learning, are attributed to ** St. Mocorog, a Briton, who, having learned the fame of St. Kevin, left his native country, and fixed his residence in a cell on the east side of Glenda- lough. Here a city soon sprung up, and a seminary was founded, from whence were sent forth many exemplary men, whose sanctity and learning diffused around the western world that light of letters and religion, which in earlier ages shone with so much brightness throughout this remote, and, at that period, tranquil isle, and was almost exclusively confined to it." THE ROUND TOWER 87 " Dracolatria," or serpent worsliip, as an important element of ancient Irish paganism, must have flourished in this secluded valley for ages before the period of St. Kevin, judging by the legends, written and oral, still extant in reference to it. After the successful establishment of Christianity the locality retained its religious importance, and at a very early period, it was often plundered by the Danes, who began their outrages upon it in the beginning of the ninth century. In 1020 the city was reduced to ashes, and being rebuilt, was partly swept away by a flood, 1177. In 1398 the invading English burnt down the city, whose importance was fast ebbing, and consequently it was never rebuilt. The hamlet is composed of a few miserable cottages, and therefore presents nothing of in- terest. The chief object of attraction in this spot is The Eound Tower. — This is one of the finest of the kind in Ireland. Its height is 110 feet, and circumference 51, is built of granite and slate intermixed. Above the door are two small windows, and at the top are four more, as in that at Clondalkin. The statement, on the authority of more learned visitors, is, that these round towers were erected long before the arrival of St. Patrick in the island, that they were the temples of piety dedicated to the worship of the sun. The belief is, that the druid priest ascended to the top every morning, to watch for sunrise, and on catching the first glimpse of his rays, called out to the four corners of the earth, " Baal, Baal, Baal." It has already been mentioned in this work, that these relics have been considered by a good authority to be nothing more than bell*towers. The top of the tower is want- ing ; it was carried off by a storm early in the present century. St. Kjevin's Kitchen is the most perfect ruin now standing in the vale. It is a little building, 22 feet long by 15 wide. The roof is of slabs of stone. At the west end is a belfry, which may easily be mistaken for a chim- ney, and hence the title vulgarly applied to the building. 88 EXCUESIONS FROM DUBUN* The Cathedral is situated at a short distance to th© nortli. Our Lady's Chapel. Both are very small buildings, particularly the former, when we consider the imposing title which it bears. They are very ancient, and Pelasgic or Cyclopean in style, and are most interesting specimens of early Irish architecture. The Ivy Church, or Trinity Church, is situated near the village of Laragh. Like the others, it is very small, and of rude construction. Beside it is a portion of a round tower. St. Saviour's Abbey is situated on the Derrybawn property. On architectural points, it is undoubtedly a very interesting ruin. In the wreck of rubbish which it has become, a number of beautifully carved stones is sometimes to be picked up. It is said that St. Kevin was buried here in 618, and some time ago, a tomb, supposed to be that of the saint, was discovered in a small crypt adjoining. The O'Tooles had for some years the appoint- ing of the bishop of Glendalough, and used the right of sepulture in the abbey. The Sacristy is a portion of the burying-ground set aside for the repose of Catholic clergy. It is believed by many ignorant people that a peculiar blessing rests on this ground, and that the body buried here is sure to rise again with its spiritual companion in happiness. In the burying-ground, and indeed scattered all ovei the valley, are stone crosses of various sizes. One in the cemetery is made of one piece of granite eleven feet high. It is believed that the lark has never been known to sing over the gloomy " vale of the two loughs," a statement easily credited, when it is recollected that larks prefer broad meadows and corn fields to deep rocky dells. Tra- dition has found another reason for the absence of the bird. Kolil, the German traveller, was told that "when the Seven Churches vere buOding, it ■'.'as the skylarlcs that used *Hvery morning to call the men BED OF ST. KEVIN. 89 to their work. They had no watches in those days, and the song of the lark served as a signal that it was time to begin their labour. "Well, when the holy work was at an end, St. Kevin declared that no lark was worthy to succeed those pious birds that had helped in the building of the churches." The other version of the tradition is, that the men took an oath to "begin with the lark and lie down with the lamb ; " but the larks rose so early over the valley, as to cause them to rise long before they were re- freshed, and in consequence, many died from over exertion, which so touched the heart of St. Kevin, that he prayed that no lark might ever sing over the spot again, thus saving his labourers' lives and their oaths at the same time. The ruins we liave been describing are principally sitnated at the lower end of the Lower Lake, which is about a quarter of a mile long. It is generally said by guides to be that into which St. Patrick banished the last of the snakes, which may indicate the overthrow of serpent worship. This distinction, how- ever, is claimed by Croagh Patrick, in ]\Iayo, and by one of the tarns in the Gap of Dunloe, in County Kerry. Half a mile or little less above this is the Upper Lake, a mile in length, and celebrated as the scene of Kathleen's death. At its head are the works of a mining company, who have planted the hill behind their cottages with pine trees — a great improvement to the land- scape. On the south side of the Lake rises Lugduff Hill, and on a craggy face of it is situated the celebrated BED OF ST. KEVIN, to enter which has been the ambition of almost all tourists. The accompanying description of this retreat is by the late Eev. Caesar Otway. *' By this time we had rowed under Kevin's Bed, and landmg adjoining to it, ascended an inclined stratum of rock, to a sort of ledge or resting- place, from whence I and some others prepared to enter the Bed. Hero the guides make much ado about proposing their assistance ; but to any one who has common sense and enterprise, there is no serious difficulty, for, by the aid of certain holes in the rock, and points which you can easily grasp, you can turn into this little artificial cave, which, in fact, is not bigger than a small baker's oven ; and were it not that it hangs some twenty feet perpendicularly over the dark blue lake, this cavity, not larger than many a pig-stye I have seen excavated in the side of a bank, could not attract so many visitors. I and two young men who followed me, found it a very tight fit, when croueh(»d tosrether in it. At the further end there 90 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. is a sort of pillow, and peculiar excavation made for the saint's head, and the whole of the interior is tattoed with the initials of such as have adventarod to come in. Amongst the many, I could observe those of Sir Walter Scott, Lord Combermere ; and of certain blue stocking dames, as, fcr instanoe, Lady Morgan, who made it her temporary loudoir." When Sir Walter Scott,"^inl825, "being tlien in declining health, visited Ireland, he was accompanied by his son-in- law, Mr. Lockhart, who says of St. Kevin's Bed — " It is a hole in the sheer surface of the rock, within which two or three people might sit. The difficulty of getting into this place has been exaggerated, as also the danger, for it would only be falling about twenty feet into veiy deep water. Yet I never was more pained than when Sir Walter Scott, in spite of aU remonstrances, would make his way to it, crawling along the precipice. He succeeded and got in ! After he was gone, Lord Plunkett, then Attorney-General, told the female guide he was a poet. * Poet ! * said she, ' the devil a bit of him, but an honourable gentle- man — ^he gave me half-a-crown.' " St. Kevin's Bed has been the shelter of the outlaw, as well as the abode of the saint. On the breaking up of the rebellion of 1798, a number of the outlaws under Dwyer dispersed themselves throughout the county of Wicklow, seeking shelter and protection where they could find it. Dwyer himself, being hotly pursued by a company of Scottish High- landers, took refuge in the cave, where the fatigues of his flight brought on sleep. The sure-footed Highlanders stole gently up to the mouth of the cave, and had almost entered when he awoke, sprung into the lake, swam to the opposite shore, and so escaped.! * Scott's autograph is shown by the guides prefixed by " Sir*' ! t Tlie conversation of the learned and facetious judge. Lord Norbury, with one of the guides on this subject is most amusingly recorded by thd celebrated Orofton Croker, who also edited the life of General Holt ol famous memory. " WeU," said Lord Norbury to his guide, " where is this Bed?" *' Plase your honour's worship, my lord, 'tis the hole m the rock there." ** Oh 1 I see. The saint was a holy man, fond of being rocked to sleep, eh ? " ** I have hard (heard) so, my lord." " Hard lying no doubt," was Lord Norbury's comment. *' Just the den for a rookite." ** Indeed, then, your lordship, before Captain Rock's time, the rebel Dwyer used to shelter himself in the Bed— General O'Dwyer, I mean ; and mighty proud he was of that same great O. Sure he would write it before his name so large, that it looked among the rest of the letters just like a turkey's egg in a hen's nest." " Very strange retreat for a rebel with so much Orange liking (lichen) about the cliff." -^*'Tis true for you, my right honourable lord, and VALE OF CLARA. 91 Returning again from the valley to Laragh Village, we take a sharp wheel to the right, and enter the charming YALE OF CLAEA, throngh which flows the Avonmore river, swelled by the waters of Annamoe, Glenmacnass, Glendassan, and Glendalough. Our way for the first mile is by the great military road, which leads from Dublin to Drumgoff Barrack,*^ and thence by Aghavannagh to Baltinglass. On our right we pass under Derrybawn, and on our left Trooperstown Hill. The vale, which has little of the wild or striking in its character, is very beautiful, and affords an agreeable rest to the visitor after straining his eyes, and having his ears all but deafened by the vociferations of the guides. About three miles and a half from Laragh we come to Clara Bridge, but do not cross it. About a mile and a half further, Copse House, situated in a wood, is the property of Earl Pitzwilliam. The copse- wood extends from the base of Moneystown Hill along the Avonmore river to the vicinity of Eathdriun, a distance of fully three miles and a haK, being the largest in Wicklow. The road between Laragh and Clara Bridge is continued all the way on the bank of the Avonmore, which flows occasionally at our feet, and now and then is lost to view, owing to the elevation of the road. Approaching Copse House, however, we gradually separate from it, leaving it the Orangemen were near taking Dwyer." " Aye, near making D'Oyer and Terminer business of it ! " " But, plase your lordship, Dwyer leaped like a fairy." " A complete lep-rechaun that rascal." '* And a party of soldiers, my lord, on the top of the cliff." " What ! Highlanders ? " '' They were so, plase your lordship, and when they fired at Dwyer, he dived like a duck." "Yes ; ducked, and so got off Scot free?" " ! 'twas all right enough with him. He was up again winking his eye at the smoke." " Smoked them, tlid he ? Did not like their invitation to a Caledonian ball? There are divers other stories about your lake, no doubt?" "Plenty, my lord ; there's one by Moore." " No more at present ; that will do. Moore's songs haunt me as if I had murdered them in singing." — HalVs Eibernia niustrata. * There is a roAd over the hills from Laragh to Dramgoff Barrack (New Inn), which, though avoided by the carmen on account of its steepnesa, } some exquisite views of the surrounding country. 92 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. a considerable distance at times to our left, until we enter the town of RATHDEUM, between six and seven miles from Laragli. Here there is little to stay for ; the town is agreeably situ- ated, but not attractive in itself. Seward says of this town that — "Near it was Bunum^ a city and capital of Menapii. It was the seat of the chiefs of Coulan, and called by the Irish Rathdruim, from whence the name Rathdrum." Rathdrum was formerly noted for flannel. The flannel hall is a huilding 200 feet in front, with a cupola. It is situated on Rathdrum Hill. Here the train can be taken, which follows the course of the river, and enters THE YALE OF OYOCA. The vale is weU planted, but has been somewhat disfigured by the mining works. The mansions of Avondale and Kingstown are passed on the right, and then appear the turrets of CASTLE HOWARD, the seat of Mr. Howard Brooke, standing on an eminence on the left of the river Avonmore, just above its famous junction with the Avonbeg. The river is crossed by a quaintly picturesque bridge known as the Lion Bridge. The entrance to the demesne is by a castellated gate, surmounted by a lion passant, the crest of the Howard family. The structure, which is plain and chaste, gains much in effect from its position on an eleva- tion of 200 feet above the river. The hills around are richly planted. The view from the esplanade embraces the surrounding hills and vale of Ovoca. The " Meeting of the Waters" is soon approached, where the Avonbeg unites with the Avonmore, and flows down the vale under the name of the Ovoca, amid projecting rocks, o'erhanging trees, and every adjunct to picturesque effect. The tourist is apt to expect too much from such a place, forgetting that when the national poet sung There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet. Oh ! the last rays of feeling and life must depart, Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart THE VALE OF OVOCA. 93 Yet it was not that nature had shed o'er the scene Her purest of crystal and brightest of green ; 'Twas not her soft magic of streamlet or hill, Oh I no — it was something more exquisite stilL 'Twas that friends, the beloved of my bosom, were near Who made each dear scene of enchantment more dear' And who felt how the best charms of nature improve. When we see them reflected from looks that we love. Sweet vale of Avoca ! how calm could I rest In thy bosom of shade with the friends I love best, Where the storms that we feel in this cold world should ce?-89 And oui" hearts, like the waters, be mingled in peace — he was drawing as much npon imagination in all likelihood as upon nature ; and when we remember the lavishness of Moore's ideas, we must only be astonished to find nature so like poetry. The valley is indeed sweet, and cold must be the heart, and dull the head, which could pass through it unmoved ; but if the tourist does not wish to meet with a disappointment, he must not expect too much. It would be doing an injustice to the literature of Ireland, to pass the scene of one of Moore's most exquisite lyrics without a slight notice of the poet. It was a just eulogy which the editor of the Cyclopaedia of English Literature passed upon him when he said : — " A rare union of wit and sensi- bihty, of high powers of imagination and extensive learning, has been exem- plified in the works of Thomas Moore. " He was educated at Trinity College Dublin, and at the age of nineteen proceeded to the Middle Temple, London, to study law. A year afterwards, he published his inimitable translation of Anacreon. His works are justly and universally esteemed, whether in the walk of pure poetry or of keenest satire. Of the former, bis Lalla Rookh and Irish Melodies undoubtedly stand highest ; his satirical works, pub- lished under the title of Thomas Little, and his Fudge Family in Paris, are best known. Kohl, who being a stranger, may be supposed to be less pre- judiced than most British critics, thus beautifully alludes to the genius of the poet : — " There occur," says he, " in every literature short striking pas- sages that captivate the imagination with a force for which we find it difficult, oft impossible, to account. Millions of fine sentences may be expended in vain, v/hile two or three sentences may thrill for centuries in the hearts oi » nation. This is a power which Moore often exercises in a high degree, and to many a sequestered vale and ruined castle his verses have given a fame that will probably outlive monuments of bronze or granite." 94 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. . It is difficult to convey a description of tlie Vale of Ovoca in terms to come up to the expectation of the reader, or even to the reality of nature. A notice of it, by the author already quoted, may be of some assistance to the expectant tourist. " Beautifully picturesque groups of oaks and beeches, everywhere hung with ivy, constitute one of the main beauties of the Vale of Ovoca. This, to some extent, is the character of all the valleys of Wicklow through which rivers flow, while the summits of the moun- tains and the unwatered vales remain completely bare. The Irish oak differs materially from the English oak ; yet this difference, so striking that you notice it at the first glance, is difficult to describe. The branches are less knotted and spreading. There seem to me to be more straight lines and fewer crooked ones ; more length and less breadth in the Irish oak." Another stranger, Prince Puckler Muskau, writes in glowing terms of the spot. " Just before sunset," he says, " I reached the exquisitely beautiful Avondale. In this paradise every possible charm is united. A wood, which appears of measureless extent ; two noble rivers ; rocks of every variety of picturesque form ; the greenest meadows ; the most varied and luxuri- ant shrubberies and thickets. In short, scenery changing at every step, yet never diminishing in beauty." An Eng- lish writer ^ gives a very different account of the place. " As to the * Meeting of the Waters,' " he writes, " as the Irish are pleased to call the confluence of two little streams, pompously or poetically as you may please to decide, I think more has been made of it than either the waters or their meeting deserve. There are, in fact, two places in the valley where two streams meet, one towards the lower end, where the scenery is rich and beautiful, the other, which I was assured to be the * riglar ' meeting, was higher up the vale ; and I confess, on arriving at it, I was disappointed, and could not hesitate in giving preference to the place of the conflu£nx\e of the two streams we had • Mr. Barrow. WOODEN BRIDGE. 95 passed lower down." In tlie neighbourliood are copper and snlpliur mines, tliat of Cronbane producing black- copper ore and pyrites. The valley is about eight miles in length, when we arrive at WOODEN BRIDGE {Wooden Bridge Hotel) Just before the door of the hotel, the second or lower meeting of the waters takes place — the river Aughrim here flowing into the Ovoca. This spot is supposed by some to be the scene of the poem, and many and fierce are the contests between the partisans of the spots for the honour of Moore's patronage. In a letter written to a friend by the author, and published in his memoirs and journal, he says : — " The fact is, I wrote the song at neither place ; though I believe the scene under Castle Howard (first meeting), was the one that suggested it to me. But all this interest shews how wise Scott was in connecting his poetry wdth beautiful scenery. As long as the latter blooms so will the former." Gold is to be found on Croghan Kinshela, a hill situate about 3|- miles to the south-west of Wooden Bridge. A small brook, which joins the Ovoca at the bridge, flows through the auriferous district. At the end of last century the government realised about ^3700 out of the gold mines here. From Wooden Bridge the tourist may return by train direct to Bray, or proceed to Arklow (page 101) and Ennis- corthy (page 103), and thence to Wexford (page 103). An agreeable day's excursion from here may also be made to Glendalongh and tbe Seven Clmrclies. Taking tbe train to Rathdrmn, where cars will be found in waiting, the tourist should proceed by Lara and Clara, and home over the hill to Drumgoflf Inn and thence to Wooden Bridge. In hiring at Rathdrum the route should be stipulated for. 96 EXCURSIONS FKOM DUBLIN. BRAY TO WICKLOW, WOODEN BRIDGE, LUGNAQUILLA, ARKLOW, ENNISCORTHY, AND WEXFORD. BY RAILWAY. Itinerary, Miles. Bray to Delgany - - - 5 Delgany to M. Kennedy - 2| M. Kennedy to Newrath - 5| Newrath to Wicklow - - 2| Mile.i Wicklow to Avoca - - 15 Avoca to Arklow - - 6 Arklow to Enniscorthy - 29 Ennis. by coach to Wexfoi-d H Lea\TJig Bray by railway, the first station is Delgany, from which the Glen of the Downs (page 80) is one and a half mile distant due west. The next halting-place is Kilcool, two miles from which is Newtown M. Kennedy. It is situ- ated in a rich tract of country, extending from the foot of Downs Mountain, and bounded by the sea. This was the Bcene of an encounter in 1798 between the rebels and the king's troops under Lords Kingsborough and Rossmore, in which the former met with a signal defeat. The domain of Mount Kennedy, formerly the property of Sir Eobert Kennedy, was purchased from him by the late Lord Rossmore, at that time General Cunningham, who converted it from waste land into a beautiful property. The present proprietor, R. G. Cunningham, Esq., permits visitors to pass through the grounds on week days. In the immediate vicinity are the domains of Glendaragh and Altadore. Proceeding from Kilcool we arrive at Killoughter, the station for the Devil's Glen (page 81), and for Newrath (Inn : The Newrath — bed Is. 8d. to 2s., breakfast Is. 8d. to 2s., lunch 9d. to Is., dinner 2s. to 3s., tea Is., supper Is., attendance Is., private room 2s. 6d.), situated in the centre of v/hat has been happily termed the Garden of Wicklow. The Inn at Newrath Bridge is, out of Bray, one of the best in the county of Wicklow. About a mile from New- WICKL OW&W EXFORP '!■ • ( British- 3Iile 8 WICKLOW. 97 rath is Asliford (page 81), where there is also a good inn. The next station we come to is WICKLOW. — Like most other harbours on the east coast of Ireland, Wicklow is guarded by a sea bar. on which the water seldom exceeds seven or eight feet. This being an assize town, it contains the gaol, conrt-house, and in- firmary. The trade is limited to fishing and exportation of coal and lime. The town gives the title of Earl to the family of Howard. " Here," says Seward, " is a rock, by some taken for the remains of a castle surrounded by a strong wall ; there are but few buildings, yet it has a bar- rack, and is remarkable for the best ale in the kingdom." About a mile and a haK to the east is a bold point of land called Wi'cHow Head. After leaving Wicklow, the train proceeds to Eathdruu; (page 92). Here the tourist who \\dshes to ascend Mount LUGNAQUILLA leaves the train and proceeds by car seven miles up the river Avonbeg to the village of Druni- goflP, where there is a hotel and barracks. The ascent should not be attempted without the assistance of a guide, which can easily be secured at the hotel. This being the highest hill in the county (3039 feet above the sea level), it com- mands a wide and varied panorama, which will be better explained by the guide than any written account can do. The following paragraph from the pen of Mr. Wright, than whom no one knows more of the country, will be appreci- ated by those who cannot place implicit reliance on Irish guides. " From this elevated station," he writes, " in clear weather, parts of five counties are clearly seen. And Mr. Weaver states that the Galtee Mountains in Tipperary have sometimes been perceived ; but such extensive pro- spects can only be enjoyed by those who have frequent opportunities of ascending, and the good fortune to meet with a cloudless atmosphere. Towards the north, Kippure and the Great Sugar Loaf raise their towering summits to the clouds, beyond a lengthened chain of waste and barren H 98 KXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. mountains. To the west and soutli is an extent of culti- vated country, and to the east are seen mountain and vale, wooded glens, and rapid rolling rivers, bounded in the dis- tance by St. George's Channel. On the north side of Lug- naquilla is an enormous excavation or chasm, forming the termination of the glen of Imale, called the * North Prison,* to distinguish it from a similar precipitous hollow on the opposite or south side, termed the ' South Prison.' The fronts of these bold cliffs are composed of granite, broken into large square blocks, appearing ready to separate, and tumble from their uncertain rests upon the least concus- sion." In the inaccessible crags over the fine mountain valley or glen of Imale, the eagle is sometimes seen hover- ing about protecting its nest. With the exception of a few bald spots near the top, the whole of Lugnaquilla is like a soft carpet. In descending this mountain the visitor should make for the waterfall, and thence keep down Glen- malure to the inn at Drumgoff. On his way he passes through a glen, *^ not unlike the glen of the Horse on Mangerton, in the county of Kerry. One of its sides is composed of perpendicular pillars of granite blocks, regu- larly formed and laid over each other, like columns of basalt. A person may stand on the top of one of them, and look down its perpendicular side to the very bottom of the glen. It was here that an ill-fated outlaw, in attempt- ing to escape from a party of military, pushed his horse at full speed down the mountain side, and being unable to rein him when he reached the precipice, both horse and rider went headlong down the steep, and perished at the instant they reached the bottom." The road from Drumgoff to the Seven Churches (page 8 5). is allowed to be one of the most interesting in the county. After attaining a consi- derable elevation, it passes the " lovely glen of Ballyboy," rich in "pastoral beauty ;" and commands from its higher elevations a succession of lovely mountain views. The distance from Drumgoff to Glendalough (page 85) is seven miles. If the traveller wishes to return to Rathdrum, the WOODEN BRIDGE. 99 same road as he came by is followed ; but if it 1& preferred to go to Wooden Bridge, 8 miles from Drumgoff, he will proceed first along the left side of the Avonbeg river for about a mile and a half, ana then cross to the right bank above Ballinacor House, the residence of Mr. Kemmis. Glenmalure was held in the time of Queen Elizabeth by a rude chieftain, Pheagh MacHugh O'Byme of Ballinacorj; who kept court here like a monarch. In 1580 he defeated with much bloodshed Lord Grey de Wilton in the vale of Glendalough. In 1597, however, he was killed in an engagement with Lord Deputy Eussell. It was while in Glenmalure that Holt, the leader of the Wicklow insur- gents in the rebellion of '98, received the conciliatory letter from General Sir John Moore. In descending the glen many pretty cascades, formed by tributary streams on their way to swell the Avonbeg, are passed. Proceeding onwards, we follow the course of the Avonbeg until we reach the first " meeting of the waters," where it joins the Avonmore, forming the Ovoca. From this point we return to the Wooden Bridge Inn along the " sweet vale of Ovoca." The charms of the vale are somewhat disfigured by the ob- trusive presence of the copper mines of Ballymurtagh on the right bank of the river and Cronebane on the left. Wooden Bridge (31 miles from Bray). See also page 95. The river Avonbeg, which, uniting with the Avonmore under Castle Howard, forms the first " meeting of the waters," passes down Glenmalure ; and the Aughrim river, from the glen of the same name, uniting with the Ovoca, forms the second meeting at the Wooden Bridge. The road proceeds up the right bank of the Aughrim river as far as Coates Bridge, a distance of about three miles. The right bank is bare and uncovered, and crowned with the ruined church of Ballintemple ; but the left side is beauti- fully wooded. The village of Aughrim * is pleasantly situ- ated in the glen of Aughrim, which, properly so called, begins here, and stretches in a north-westerly direction- almost parallel with Glenmalure, until it is terminated b^ * Branch line to Augtrira. Tinnahely, and SliiHelash. 100 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. the lofty Liignaqnilla (page 97). In the glen, General Holt had an engagement with the king's forces in 1789, which he celehrates in his memoirs. The account may be interesting as describing the mode of warfare practised by these wild disturbers. " I had my battle of Aughrim," says he, " as well as General Ginkle, and in order to dis- tinguish between them, I call it ^ Holt's battle of Aughrim.' I issued orders that the men should be silent and steady, and not leave their post or line of march on any account;^ reminding them of the mischief they had suffered from the want of discipline, and the victories they had achieved by a contrary conduct. We advanced in quick time, and soon came within sight of Aughrim. I took a post on the side of Rodena Hill ; John MacEvoy was my aid-de-camp this day. Standing by my side, he saw the enemy present their muskets, and calling out ^ down every man,' we all fell instantly. The enemy fired, and the ground was cut just above us with their balls. I never saw a better di- rected volley, but it did us no mischief. We were soon on our feet, and returned the compliment with some effect. I then ordered 150 of my men down to the river side, to get into the wood, but not to fire a shot till Go wan had advanced as far as Eodena Bridge, and then to get behind him and the barrack. The party were not steady, and fired too soon, and the enemy perceiving themselves at- tacked from the wood, instantly retreated, both horse and foot, into the town." The entire length of the glen from Wooden Bridge to Lugnaquilla is thirteen miles. Ijeaving Ovoca station for Arklow, the railway fol- lows the Ovoca. On the one side we have a wooded hill, with steep faces covered with ferns, mosses, and golden saxifrages, over which trickle innumerable streams of limpid water. On the other side we look down into the Ovoea, just at its junction with the wild wandering river from the west, and continue along its margin till we reack the domain of ARKLOW. 101 SHELTON ABBEY, tlie seat of tlie Eail of Wicklow. About a mile and a half from Arklow is the public entrance^ by which the tourist may freely enter to view the pointed Gothic structure and the noble park. Beyond this point, the scenery becomes of a tamer cast, and gradually loses its picturesque character before we reach ARKLOW {Hotel: Kinsela's.) The town, which has a population of 5000 persons, is situated on the sea coast, and from its position would undoubtedly assume an important position as a port but for the occurrence of a sand-bar, similar to that which obstructs the navigation of the Liffey. Owing to the banks and oysters beds which lie off the coast here, Arklow is one of the most important fishery stations in Ireland, and this industry gives employment to one-half of the inhabitants In the year 1872 there were as many as 358 boats, manned by 1934 men and boys, engaged in the herring and oyster fishing, and the produce for that period is said to have amounted to 20,000 mease (containing 635 fish) of herring, realising £14,000, and 16,000 barrels of oysters, valued at .£14,400. The first object which catches the visitor's atten- tion, as he nears the town from the direction of Wooden Bridge, is a part of the old castle of the Ormonds, now re^ duced to a complete ruin, and containing in its interior a constabulary barrack. The castle was built by the fourth Lord Butler of Ireland, Theobald Fitzwalter. It " was formerly a place of strength and consequence, and the scene of much bloodshed. In 1331, it was taken by the O'Tooles, who were shortly after driven from the place by Lord Birmingham, who defeated them with great slaughter. It was again taken by the Irish, but surrendered to the English, on the 8th of August 1332. In 1641, the garrison was surprised by the Irish, and every one put to the sword. In 1649, the castle was de- molished by Cromwell" At Arklow a battle was fought in 1798 between the English under General Needham, and the rebels. The latter are believed to have exceeded 31,000 in number, while the conquerors only numbered 1500. A monastery 102 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN, was founded by Fitzwalter, for " tLe iove of God and the Blessed Virgin, and for tlie health of the souls of Henry II. king of England, King Richard, King John, and other per- sons." The monks were believed to be of the Cistercian order, from Fumess, Abbey in Lancashire. The founder, who died at the castle in 1285, was buried in the Abbey- church. No vestiges of the monastery now remain. The town consists of but one principal street, in which are situated the church, the inn, and the better class of shops. Proceeding on our journey, at two miles and a half beyond Arklow, the railroad crosses the boundary of the two counties and enters Wexford. The drive to Gorey is through ten miles of uninteresting country, and from thence to Ferns, through Camolin, it becomes less mono- tonous. Ferns, though now sunk into insignificance, was once the capital of the kingdom of Leinster and the archi- episcopal see of the province. It was here that the traitor MacMorrogh held court. A church is said to have been founded here in 598 either by St. Mogue or St. Eden. The present cathedral, which is used as a parochial church, is a plain building of considerable antiquity, but repaired and altered in 1816. A monument, incorrectly supposed to be that of the original founder, representing hiTn in his ecclesiastical robes, in a recumbent position, is in the church. The ruins of an abbey, said to have been founded by Dermod MacMorrogh, are closely adjacent to the church. The palace of MacMorrogh was situated on the top of the hill, on the sides of which the town now stands. Strong- bow is supposed to have fortified and otherwise strengthened the position of his father-in-law, and its site is still occu- pied by an imposing ruin of more recent construction than the conquest of the "Green Isle," and which was dis- mantled by the Parliamentary forces, under Sir Charles Coote, in the civil war of 1641. MacMorrogh died at Ferns in May 1171, and is believed to have been interred in the abbey. Eight miles south of Ferns we arrive at ENNISCORTHT. 103 ENmSCOKTHY'' (Botel : Nuzam's), a thriving little town belonging to tlie Earl of Portsmouth., boldly situ- ated on tbe side of a steep hill above the river Slaney^ which here becomes navigable for barges of large size. To the east, overlooking the town, is '* Vinegar Hill," of bloody memory, where the main force of the in- surgents encamped during the rebellion of 1798, which commenced in the adjoining counties, but spread T\i.th increased fury into the county of Wexford. It was here that the monstrous barbarities took place which the otherwise moral and kind-hearted peasantry were induced by religious fanaticism and oppression to commit. On the top of the hill was an old windmill, which served as a prison for the victims previous to their execution. About 400 persons were here, in cold blood, put to death with pikes by the undisciplined rebels. The old castle, a mas- sive square pile with a round tower at each comer, owes its origin to Eaymond le Gros, and is one of the earliest military structures of the Anglo-Norman invaders. The railway from Enniscorthy keeps to the right bank of the river, and passes through some highly picturesque country. At Macmine Junction connection is obtained with Bagnals- town and Carlow, and after passing the village of Eallurin we enter the town of WEXFOKD {Hotels: White's, and TheWestgate) 15 miles fiom Enniscorthy, and, like it, situate on the river Slaney. To enjoy the scenery of this fine river a boat may be taken between the two towns, by which means its picturesque banks will be seen to full advantage. The most interest- ing object, however, is the square keep, which is all that remains of Carrick Castle, which may be easily visited from Wexford, being about two miles from that town. It is picturesquely situated on the summit of a rock close to the river, and was the fijcst castle built by the English in * A pleasant drive may be taken from here to New Ross, 18 miles 104 EXCURSIONS FSOM DUBLIIS. Ireland. MacMorrogli having proceeded to besiege Dublin, is recorded to have left Fitz-Stephen behmd him, who busied himself with the erection of a castle. The translator of Giraldus Cambriensis says — "It was at first made but of rods and wiffes, according to the manner in these daies, but since builded with stone, and was the strongest fort then on those parts of the land, but being a place not altogether sufficient for a prince, and yet it was thought too good and strong for a subject, it was pulled down, defaced, and razed, and so dooth still remaine/' Wexford, the county town, is picturesquely situated on the shores of the harbour of the same name, which is about eight miles in length by three in breadth ; but in conse- quence of the existence of a bar at the mouth of the har- bour, no vessel of more than 200 tons burthen can enter it from the sea. The borough, which returns one member to Parliament, contains a population of 11,8 00 persons, only 900 of whom are Protestants. The town was at one time en- closed within walls, the remains of which can still be traced. The most interesting ruin in the place is that of the Abbey of St. Sepulchre, corrupted into " Selsker," and near which is the modern parish church. The first treaty between the Irish and English was signed here in 1169. A college exists in the town for the education of the Catholic clergy. " Wexford," says Kohl, " during the last rebellion was the scene of almost unexampled atrocity." It is studded with the ruins of castles and churches founded by the early Anglo-Norman invaders, who here made their first landing in Bannow Bay. " There is a bridge built over a narrow part of the bay. To this bridge the rebels, then in possession of the town, brought their English and Pro- testant prisoners, and flung them into the water. Mulgrave, in his cele- brated ' Memoirs of the Irish Rebellion,' now rarely to be met with, says that the prisoners were speared, at the same moment from before and be- hind, and then lifted up on pikes and thrown over the parapet of the bridge. These are matters yet fresh in the memory of li\1ng men." The barony of Forth, a district oT Wexford inhabited by ft race of people very diff'erent from the rest of Ireland in NEW ROSS. 105 habits and appearance, is a little distance sontli of the county town. It is believed that the district was colonized by Strongbow, from Wales. Valiancy published a vocabu- lary of their language, which bears more resemblance to Saxon than to either the English or Celtic. Very few of the natives, however, have now any knowledge of their ancient language. Fethard, a now insignificant fishing village, stands on the west shore of Bannow Bay, about 25 miles from Wexford. A little distance from it are the remains of Tintern Abbey, founded in 1200 by the Earl of Pembroke, son-in-law of Strongbow. The legend states that, being in great danger at sea, he made a vow to found an abbey on the spot w^here he should land in safety. His boat found shelter in Bannow Bay, and here he accordingly established a monastery, which he peopled with monks from Tintern Abbey in Monmouthshire. It is beautifully situated in the demesne of Tintern, which was granted by Queen Eliza- beth to Sir Anthony Culclough, in whose family it still remains. The venerable ruins of the ancient church of Bannow, on the opposite side of the bay, are of much inte- rest. A curious case of land depression is Lolieved to have extinguished the town of Bannow, which consisted two centuries ago of no less than nine principal streets, with well-built houses. Four centuries earlier it was one of the principal sea-ports in Ireland. An interesting assemblage of ruins exists at the extremity of the bay, known as the " Seven Churches of Clonmines," but really the remains of four castles and an abbey ; the town which is supposed to have existed here has entirely disappeared. NEW ROSS (Shannahan's) is an ancient town situated in the west of the county, on the river Barrow, about 20 miles from Wexford. The foundation of this place is usually ascrib- ed to Lady Rose, daughter of Crume, King of Denmark. New Ross had a full share in the horrors of '98, " The battle of Ross," and the various incidents connected with it, have 106 EXCURSIONS FROM DUBLIN. been handled more than once by the historian and novelist. The insurgents, numbering from 20,000 to 30,000 men, were here defeated by the garrison, consisting of about 1200 militia and 150 yeomen, imder the command of Major General Johnson.* In returning to Dublin from New Ross, the shortest route is by road to Tbomastown station, about 12 miles ; and thence by rail through Kilkenny to the metropolis. But if the tourist intends going westwards, the coach to Waterford (14 miles) must be taken, and thence by raU to Tipperar}% Cork, etc. ELEVATIONS OF PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS IN THE COUNTIES DUBLIN AND WICKLOW. DUBLIN COUNTY. Feet Three Rock Mountain - - - 1585 Larch Hill 1339 TaUaughtnm- ----- 1306 SlieveThoul 1303 HiUofHowth 563 Killiney HiU 472 WICKLOW COUNTY. Lugnaquilla 3039 Kippure 2473 DufiMll 236i Tonelage 2307 Table Mountain 2306 Black Rocks 2296 War Hill 2250 MaUacop ....... ^176 Croaghanmoira 2175 Lugduff 2148 Scar 2105 Croghan Ktnsella - - - - 1985 Crockan Pond ------ 1770 Knocknacloghole - - - . 1754 Derrybawn 1567 Blackmoor Hill 1464 Trooperstown Hill - . - - 1408 Downs Mountain 1232 LAKES IN WICKLOW. Lough Bray, Upper - ^ . - 1453 — Lower - - - . 1229 Ouler 1127 Tay 807 Dan 685 * N.B. — Should the tourist desire to extend his trip southward from here, he can make a pleasant excursion to Waterford by taking the little steamer which leaves New Ross every morning. It performs the voyage in two hours, and the sail down the river Barrow presents many attractions, io good weather. J KILLAENEY AND THE SOUTH OF IEELAIn^D, BY GREAT SOUTHEEN AXD WESTERN RAILWAY. [Station — Kingsbridge, Dublin, ] ROUTES FROM DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY. PAGE Via MaUow Junction by railway direct - - - 129 Via Cork by rail, thence per rail to Dnnmanway, and coacn via Glengariff - - - - 205 Via Cork by rail, thence per rail and coach ma Macroom and Glengariff - - ... 209 108 I. -FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, THROUGH KILDABE, QUEEN'S COUNTY TIPPERARY, COUNTY LIMERICK, AND COUNTY CORK, BY GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN RAILROAD ON EIGHT FROM DUBLIN. Inchicobe House. it$ Chapelizod 1 m. A \4Ilage on the river Liffey, celebrated as the encampment of Brian Boroimhe in 989; and William IIL in 1690, after his victory on the Boyne. Ballyfeemot, castle and church. The latter dedicated to St. Law- rence. LucAN Chuech. a plain parish church with a spire. •CJ Leixlip village is B miles distant. Both Lucau and Leixhp a^ 1641 163i 162| 161J 160i 158^ 1571 STATIONS, ETC. Dublin. KingsbridgeTerminus. Clondalkin. The name of the village is supposed to be de- rived from a church founded by St. Mo- chua, called Cluain Dolcain, •o Lncan 1^ m. distant. The demesne was the pro- si ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. n 3^ ^ ei Royal Hospital ofi KiLMAINHAM, OU the site of Priory of the Knights Hospitallers. The renowned Brian Boroimhe spent the last year of his life in the \allage. Locomotive Dep6t AT Inchicoee. The sheds are very spa- cious, and generally admired. Coke ovens and workshops at- tached. Row of cottages for workmen on the line. Jamestown House. Round tower seen from the line. Eighty-four feet in height. One of the most perfect in Ireland. Clonbueeis. The piantations of Castlebaggot, the seat of Mr. Baggot, are seen. 109 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc- Continued. ON EIGHT TROM DUBLIN. should be visited by the Midland and Great Western Uailway. Castletown. The fine seat of Mr.Conolly. •€> Celbridge, 1 m. distant. So named from St. Bridgid's Chapel. Vanessa, one of Swift's loves, resided for some time at Celbridge Ab- bey, the residence of H.* Grattan, Esq. KiLLADOON. The seat of the Earl of Leitrim. Castle Billok. 155i 154| 153| 1531 1521 161i 11491 STATIONS, ETC. perty of General Sars- tield by James II, created Earl of Lucan, lormerly a place of note, owing to its spas, Hazelhatch and Celbridge. About four m. dis tant is the magnificent seat of the Duke of Leinster, Cakton It is well planted and watered. The tym- panum on the portico in front of the mansion is ornamented with the family arms. A good collection of paintings in the interior. Gar- dens in Italian style The demesne can' be seen on week days. Enter the county Kil- dare. Area 418,436 acres ; pop. 84,198. Straffan. The mansion-house be- longs to H. Burton, Esq. IH 12 131 15i ON LEFT FKOM DUBLIN. Lyons, the handsome seat of Lord Cloncurry, infrontof Lions Hill, wliichrises 657feet — is wen planted, and iso- lated. The castle on the site of an ancient mansion. Wings con- nected to centre by colonnades. Contains some fine frescos and sculptures. Oughtekard, a vil- lage with the same name as one in th©| county Galway. The' 110 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, ^.-Cotrtinued. ON EIGHT FKOM DUBLIN. Sherlockstown. •€• Clats'e, 2^ m. distant. During the 6th century an abbey- existed here. Clane, supposed to be from Cluaine, meaning a sanctuary. Hill op Allen is seen, situated in the bog of the same name, 800 feet. Supposed to be the scene of one of Ossian's Poems, and residence of Fin-Mac- Coul. It is seen about 10 miles oft, and is .recognised by the tower which sur- mounts it. 148 1471 1461 146J 1451 1401 STATIONS, ETC. ^^ cr. Grand Canal. The bridge is con- structed of wood. Sallins. j^:^ cr. Grand Cankl. Line passes ' througli the hill of Obees- JS^ cr. river liffey, which here flows in a somewhat northerly direction. Bridge built of timber, 21 feet high and 270 feet long. 161 17 18 181 24 ON LEFT EEOM DUBLIN. Hill of the same name is 488 feet high ; and on its summit has the remains of a round tower. On other parts are various ecclesias- tical remains. Palmeestown Ho. Seat of the Earl of Mayo. PUNCHESTON StCSple- chase race-course 4 m. from Sallins. Naas, 2 m. dist. |& was the residence of the Kings of Leinster long before the period of Strongbow. " In its immediate neighbour- hood, and forming a singular and strilong object, are the remains of Jigginson, a build- ing commenced upon an enormous scale by the unfortunate Earl of Strafford." The Castle the pro- perty of the De Burghs of Oidtown. Old ConnellAbbet, about a mile and a half from Newbridge sta- tion. Dedicated in 1202 by the founder, M, Fitzhenry, to the Vir- gin and St. David. Though the priors were in their day peers, and even privy councillors, nothing uow remains Ill FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, he. ^Continue a. ON BIGHT TEOM DUBLIN. The Cubeagh, Famous in the annals of horse-racing. This was an ancient race- course ; Sir William Temple was the means of obtaining a Govern- ment grant of £100 to be run for annually, "with a view to im- prove the breed of Irish horses." It is six miles by two, con- taining 4858 statute acres. " It is a fine sod for the diversions, and if it has any fault, it is its evenness. It is a most delightful spacious common and sheep-walk, and the land extremely good." The neighbouring pro- prietors and tenants have the privilege of sheep -grazing on the Curragh. In 1406, it was the scene of a battle betwixt a few English under the Prior of Connell and 200 Irish, who were I defeated. It afforded i parade ground for the ; Volunteers in 1789; '^and the United Irish- vmen (to the number cf 30,000) in 1804. A forest cuce occupied 139J 135f 134f STATIONS, ETC. Newbridge. The village, though small, is a military station, and has a large cavalry barrack. A neat stone bridge, with five arches.here crosses the Liffey. Kildare. The town of Kildare is seen from the station. The name is supposed by some to be a cor- ruption of "chilledair," an oak wood. The ruined cathedral still exists, and teUs of the ancient splendour of the "City renowned for Saints." The only por- tion of the original fabric remaining is the Chapel of St. Bridgid, caUed the Fire House, as being the supposed locality of theperennial fire which the nuns maintained day and night, during a thou- saud years, for the benefit of poor strangers." " In the year 638, dod Dnhb, or Black Hugh, King of Lpinster, abdicated S2 25J 29 30 ON LEFT TEOM DUBLIN. but a few pieces of broken waU, with two of the windows. The windows are in the Gothic style of archi- tecture. KiLCULLEN, 5 m. t[> distant, was formerly a town of some conse- quence. Surrounded by circular walls, with seven entrances. The ruins of these walls exist, as also portions of a round tower, and carved crosses. Curragh Camp. Branch to TVat-er O- ford, 82 m., passing Carlow, 25| m., and Kilkenny, 51 m., with intermediate stations. See route IL The round tower, sitn- atedclose tothechurch, is a conspicuous object from the'line. It rises to a height of 110 feet. The original conical top which terminated the tower has been re- moved, and a Gothic battlement substituted in its stead. 112 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, hc.-^ontinued. ON BIGHT FEOM DUBLIN. the place of the "Short Grass of the Curragh, " Numerous earthworks are still to he founl. The Curragh is now the seat of one of the chief military encamp- ments in Ireland, and is the head-quarters of the south-eastern mili- tary district. Lackagh Castle and Chuech. The latter rebuilt in 1835. The castle of the Ktzger- alds in ruins. r <€f Mount Mellick 6| miles distant. Is a town celebrated in Ireland for the cotton manufacture carried on in it by a colony of Quakers. It is a pros- perous town, and has a large and well-atten- ded school for the edu- cation of the children of the poor. It is also the station of the Irish Beet Sugar Company. M 131| 128^ STATIONS, ETC. 33 his throne and took upon himself the Augustinian habit of this Abbey." Line enters Queen's County. Area 424.854 acres. Pop. 90,650. Monastereven, So called from an abbey founded by St. Even or Evan, early in the seventh century. It exercised the privile- ges of sanctuary. St. Even's festival is held on the 22d of Decem- ber. The consecrated bell of the saint was committed to the cus- tody of the hereditary chiefsoftheMacEgans, and was on all solemn occasions sworn upon, as the Bible is in our courts of justice. Pass- ing through various hands, the abbey at length became the propertyof the Moores, Earls of Drogheda, by one of whom it was repaired. It is still in a good state of preser- vation. It presents a Gothic end with a large window, and two strong square towers at the sides. 127| -5^ or. river Barrow, 87 1^ ON LEFT FaoH DUBLIN. The demesne of Moore Abbey, the property of tie Marquis of Dro- gheda, is well laid out, and has been much improved of late. The hall is lined with carved Irish oak. 113 FEOM DUBLIN TO CORK, ^c.—ConHnued. ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN. Lea Church and Castlk. The Castle, formerly aplaceof great strengtli, was built in 1260 Dv the De Veseys. Itcons'istedof rude ma- terials, built in a qua- drangular shape, with flanking bastions. 'Ihe Irish burned it down in 1284. The Jb'itzger- alds and O'Mores sub- sequently held it, and inl650 it wasdestroyed by Cromwell's army. Lauragh. 124i 123i 120i STATIONS, ETC. Bloomiteld. Ballyfin, the seat of Sir Charles Coote, Bart. The mansion is one of the finest modern re- i aidences in the Italian 115f 114 112^ on viaduct of mal- leable iron, about 500 feet in length. J^^ cr. branch of Grand Canal. Portarlington, An ancient borough and post town, situ- ated on ihe river Bar- row, with a handsome Protestant church, and large Koman Catholic chapel. Lord Arling- ton, to whom the estate on which the town is built belonged, formed a liitle town and port on the river. It gives the title of Earl to the family of Dawson, The demesne of Daw- son Grove is the family seat. Emigr-ints Irom Germany and Trance were among the tirst inhabitants of the town. It returns one member to Parliament. The town bt^ing for- feited to AViiiiam ill., was by him conferred on General Rouvigny, who was at the same time created Earl of Galway. Elemish and French Protestants flocked to it at that period. Maryborough, Ahorough, market,and post-town " So called in honour of Mary Queen of Endand, who reduced this part of the country to shire- ground." It formerly I 44i ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. .^f On the right, Branch to Tulla- MORE, 15^; Athlone, 39i. 62i Dawson's Court, now termed Emo Park, the seat of the Earls of Portarlington. One of the finest modern man- sions in Ireland. The demesne is extensive, and the undulating ground highly favours its appearance. Ruins of Kil- MiNCHY House. E,ATHLEAGUE, the dc mesne of Lord Congle- ton. The plantations give variety to the country. 1 114 FEOM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc-^Continued, Oir SIGHT PEOM DUBLIN. style to be found in the (Jnited Kingdom. ^$ MOUNTEATH, 4 n. distant. A post- town, founded in the 17th century by one of the Coote family. Gave the title of Earl to the family untU the -death of Sir Charles Coote's kinsman, the last Earl, in 1803. •O Castletown, 2 m distant. Ballybeophy. T. White, Esq. Ballymeelish, John Lyster, Esq. RoscEEA, 8 m. distant. A fair and post town. "The Church has a curious Gothic frontis- piece at the west end^ near it stands one of 1091 105 104f lOlf 99f 97i STATIONS, ETC. sent two members to Parliament. " The heath of Maryborough was the original de- mesne of the 0' Mores, chiefs, Laoigkois or Leix; on it was fought a memorable battle betwixt the people of Munster and those of Leinster, about the middle of the 6th cen tury." «?^ cr. Cloncourse Elver. MOUNTRATH and CASTLETOWN. i^ or. Kiver Nore. i3^ cr. Kildellig riv. RoacBEA and Par- soNTowN Junction. Branch railway to Parsontown through Roscrea. BOERIS-IN-OSSOEY, 2 m. distant. A fair town. The Lords of Ossory had a castle for the defence of the pass of Munster. 55i 63 65 67| ON LEFT fEOK DIOBLIN. Abbeyleix, 6 m. dis- tant. ConoghorO'More founded a Cistertian monastery in the 13th century. Queen Eli- zabeth granted it to the Earl of Ormonde. Aghaboe House and Abbey. The name is derived from Acheb hoe, or ox-field. In the 6th century St. Canice founded a monastery here. He was son of a poet, Laidee, cele- brated in his day. He wrote a life of St. Co- lumbkiU, and died at Aghaboe in 599 or 600. The^ present church, which is a modern structure, stands upon the site of a "great church*' built in 1234. The octagonal belfry is still standing. The ancient church of the monas- tery is 100 feet long by 115 FROM DUBLIN TO COUK, &c.- Continued. ON EIGHT FBOM DUBLIN. 2S the largest round to^;v'ers in the king-j dom, all built wdth square stone, which is unusual iu these edi- fices." The tower is 80 feet high, and 15 in diameter ; the top of it was de- stroved by hghtning in il35. "In 1213, King John erected a |Castle in this town, and 'an abbey of regular canons was founded here by St.Cronan,who died in the beginning of the 7th century. The shrine of this saint is to be seen here, and is a curious piece of antiquity. A Francis- can friary was also founded here in 1490, at the north-west part of the town ; its re- mains are still in good preservation.^' The Peioey, seat of Sir John Garden Bart. The demesne origiaally belonged to ja Friory, the ruins I of which are still ex- tant. The western window is a very per- fect specimen of Gothic architecture. One of the entrances to th Piiory demesne i a picturesque ruin of an old castle of the Knights Templars, after whom the ad- joining town, of Tem- plemore is named. In the demesne is a beau- tiful sheet of water. I Ruined castles are 92| STATIONS, ETC. II Line enters County Tipperary. Area 1,061,731 acres; pop. 216,210. iS^ cr. river Suir. 85f Templemore. A neat,weU-builttown, believed to havesprung into existence under the Templars. It con- tains Protestant and Koman Catholic places of worship, and a bar- 83| rack for infantry, with accommodation for 1500 men. Pop. 4000. •CJ BOEEISOLEIGH, 5 m. distant from Tem- plemore. It is beauti- fully situated at the base of the Devil's Bit mountains, which are 78 ON LEFT FEOM DUBLIN. 24 wide. The windows are pointed. The ruins of the dormitories, of- fices, and other apart- ments, are still visible. Dermot MacGil Phad- rig pOlaged and burnt the shriue of St. Ca- nice and town of Agh- aboe in 1346. Knockahan Hill, an iaolated mass, rises near the railway to a height of 656 feet. The plantations on the line form part of tho demesne of Lisduff, the seat of the Right Hon. John Wilson Fitzpatrick. LouGHMOE Castle, in ruins, formerly the seat of the family of PurceHs. As it now stands, it consists of a plain castellated front with strong square towers at each end. The tower to the right is supposed to be of 116 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc—Continmed. ON EIGHT FEOM DUBLIN. very frequently seen in passing through this county. Dove A, the seat of John Trant, Esq. Holy Cross, a mean town, remarkable only for the proximity of the beautiful ruins of the Abbey, and its fairs, which are held on 14th May, 24th September, and 18th October. The tourist fromDub- lin, by leaving the rail at Thurles, may visit by car Holy- cross Abbey (3 miles), thence to Mount Cashel (11 miles),and regain the rail at Goold's Cross Station (17 miles). STATIONS, ETC. now conspicuous from the line. This range of hills derive their name from a gap in their outline, which, when seen from a distance, appears bitten out, Their greatest altitude is 1572 feet. Thurles, A town of some import- ance on account of its markets. Many bat- tles were fought in and about it. " It gave the title of Earl (smce extinct) to the Ormond family." It is situated on the river Suir, which divides the town into two equal parts. A monastery was founded here by the Butler family, in A.D. 1300, for Carme- lites or White briars ; a tower is still stand- ing on the east side of the river, and a part of the cross aisle lead- ing to the north. There was also a castle here belonging to the Knights Templars. It is the seat of the Roman Catholic arch- diocese of Cashel ; and in 1850 a Sjniod, com- posed of all the Roman Catholic bishops of Ireland, was held in the college. It con- tains several educa- tional institutes of note. The most es- teemed is the college of St. Patrick, founded in 1836. Pop. 5000. 84 85 ON LEFT FKOM DUBLIN. great antiquity, the other portions having been added about tiie 16th centui-y. On the opposite side are the church and chapel of Loughmore. Brittas Castle, on the plan of tl^e old Norman castles, a ftne but as yet unfinished mansion, the seat of CoL Knox. Cabra Castle. Holt-Ceoss Abbey, founded in 1182 by Donald O'Brian, king of Limerick. It is said that the xlbbey owed its origin to the posses- sion of a piece of the pretended real cross, which iPope Pascal had presented about sixty or seventy years before to Donaugh O'Brien, monarch of Ireland, and grandson of the illustrious Brian Bo- roimhe. Tlie abbot was a peer in Parha- ment, beaiing the title of Earl of Holy Cross. The abbey is one of the finestremainsof Gothic arcliitecture in Ire- land. 117 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK. hc—Confitnied. ON BIGHT rBOM DUBLIN. DuNDRUM Demesne, on each side of the hue, the property of Lord Hawarden, occupies somewhat above 2400 Enghsh acres. The house is elegant and commodious. It is built in the Grecian style The deer-park, which is spacious, is much admired. Ajiacabthy Castle. d Ltmeeick, 22 m. distant. Balltkisteen Ho. The seat of the Earl of Derby. The mansion is a modern building, and the country rouud is rich and fertile. a^' 72| STATIONS, ETC. 65 571 J^ or. River Clo- diach. A tributary of the Suir. Goold's Cross and Cashel. Cashel, 8 miles «3" distant. A sninll post town, which formerly sent two members to Parliament. "The City of Kings " is a phrase commonly applied to the town, owing to its royal associations. The kin^s of Munster re- sided here ; and here Henry II. received the homageof l)oDald,king of Limerick, in 1172. " The ancient name Cashel was Carsiol, or the habitation in the rock, being compound- ed of Car or Carick, and Lioi:* Pop. 4659. Dundrnm. Limerick Junc- tion. Here the main line from Dublin to Cork is intersected by the Waterford and Lime- rick hne. The fine range of the Galtee mountains is distinctly visible in the distance. 1=3 92 95i 98 99| ON LEET EROM DUBLIN. The Rock oe Cashel. which rises boldly and abruptly out of the plain, has a world-^ide celebrity in connection with one of the finest assemblages of ruins in the kingdom, which crown its summit. The rock was formerly the site of a castle or Dun, held by the chiefs of Hy lunnamoi, lat- terly termed O'Dono- hoe. The remains on the rock consist of a round tower, ninety feet in height, a small church with stone roof, in the Korman style of arcliitecture, a cathe- dral church in Gothic style, a castle, and a monastery. No one travelhng on this hne of railway, who has the time to spare, should neglect visiting these interesting remains. Hore Abbey is a fine ruin, in good preserva- tion, sitiiated at the bnseof the rock. Itig built in the transition style, and is cruciform. TippERAKT, 3 milei distant. IQ- Cahir, 16| miles. Clonmel, 27J miles. Caerickon-Suib, 41 miles. Watebeobd, 55 miles 118 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, %LC.—Conltnuei ON RIGHT PROM DUBLIN. n Emlt, now an nnim- portant place, but formerly known as Imlagli, one of the three chief towns in Ireland. A church and bishopric were founded in the 4th cen- tury by St. Ailbe, be- fore the arrival of St. Patrick in Ireland. On the arrival of St. Patrick and the con- version of Angus Mac- Nasrick,kingofCashel, the church was de- clared the metropoli- tan church of Mun- ster." The church was burned in 1192, and rebuilt. It was in a flourishing condition, in the time of Henry VIII., when Hurly, the then bishop, erected a college for the educa- tion of secular priests. In 1568, the see was united with Cashel, and both these dioceses were united in 1833 to the sees of Waterford and Lismore. •O Lough Gur, 6 m. distant. A lake of about 4 m. circumfe- rence, with several small islands. One of these islands — the largest — ^is connected with the shore by an artificial neck, which was formerly defended by two strong towers. On this island, and in the neighbourhood of the once sacred shores of tins interesting lake, are a series of (£-uidi- cal works of variona 54 Sleive-na muck is seen in front. •€• Hospital, 2 m. distant, a markettown, owing its origin to the commandery of Knights Hospitallers established in it in the reign of King John. Sir V. Brown, to whom the property was granted by Queen Elizabeth, built a splendid castle on the site of the ancient hospital. Line enters county Limerick. Area 680,842 acres; pop. 191,313. m STATIONS, ETC. Enocklong, B.B 110 1173 ON LEFT PROM DUBLIN. Knocklong Hill t& rises in the midst of a rich country. Galbally, 3 m. dis- tant. |& A considerable monas- tery was founded here in 1204 for Grey friars, by a member of the O'Brien family. It was here that Lord Presi- dent Carew summoned the Lords of every county within the pro- vince, to meet him in 1601. In the neigh- bourhood is the rich and beautiful glen of Aherlow, about eight miles in length by two 119 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc— Continued. ON BIGHT FEOM DUBLIN. I descriptions, scarcely surpassed in interest by any in the kingdom. The chief work is a druidical temple, con- sisting of three circles of stones; the princi- pal, which is about 150 feet in diameter, con- sists of 40 stones, of which the largest is 13 feet long, 6 broad, and 4 thick." " Edward and Grace's Bed*' is a tomb roofed \4ith large The Abbey of Kill- malloce; dedicated to St. Paul and St. Peter, consists of choir, nave, and transept. The choir is at present used for divine service A cylindrical belfry is attached to the abbey, and is by many sup- posed to be a round tower, although it seems coeval with the church. Near the tower is a Dominican friary. Sir R. Hoare says of it: "It surpasses in deco- ration and good sculp- ture any I have yet seen in Ireland." He refers it to the reig:n of King Edward III Of the church, the re- mains of the choir. /nave, transept, and a iO\ STATIONS, ETC. S-9 Killmallock. •O Killmallock is supposed to derive its name from St. Molach, who founded an abbey here at the commence- ment of the 7th cen- tury. Long before the invasion of the Isor- mans, Killmallock was a place of note. Until 1783 it sent two mem- bers to parliament. The ancient houses, occupied at one period by the great families of Limerick, are now re duced to the condition of wretched hovels. Even in the time of the Roundheads, the town was one of uncommon beauty, as we learn from the fact that the Parliamentary leader was so struck with it, that he resolved on sparing it. The older houses in the town are generally ornamented with battlements. ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. inbreadth; its northern boundary is formed by the Tipperary hills, and its southern by the Galtee mountains, ris- ing to a height of up- wards of 3000 feet. MiTCHELSTOWN, IQ" 13 m. distant. A neat little village, with the domain of the same name, the seat of the Earl of Kingston. The domain covers an ex- tent of 1300 acres. The mansion is a mag- nificent castellated structure, occupying a commanding position, The celebrated stalac- tite caves of Mitchels- town are about seven miles distant from the village (p. 142) KiLFiNANE, 5 m. ny distant. A small mar- ket town, containin;_ the i-uins of an ancient castle attributed to the Roches. IN'ear it are three strong forts, an artificial cave, and a rath. The latter, known as the " Danes' Fort," consists of a truncated conelSO feet high, and 20 feet in diameter at the top, surrounded by 4 ram- parts, wliich diminish gradually until the outer becomesscarcely 10 feet high. The ramparts are 20 feet apart, and the diameter of the outermost about 650 feet. 120 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc—Continued, ON EIGHT PEOM DUBLIN. tall steeple, are stiU standing. The clois- ters remain. -€$ Charlevtlle, 1 m. distant. It is a small town, founded in 1661 by the Earl of Orrery, and named in honour of Charles II. The place formerly gave the title of Earl to the Moore family, and now gives the same title to the family of Bury. The land in the neiojhbourhood is welj suited for dairy fanning. •O Cecilstown, 6 m. distant. A small market town 351 27i Line enters County, Cork. Area 1,846,333 acres ; pop. 649,071. Charleville, fSS® or. River Awbeg thrice. Buttevant. Like Kilmallock, But- tevant was once a town of importance, as may be inferred from the ruins which abound in and about it. Seward ^ s : " It is called in tlieEcclesiasticalbooks Bothon, by the Irish and Spencer, Kilne- mullagh. The modern name is a corruption of the motto or war- cry of the Barrys, Boutez enavant, * Fiish forward ;' and was for- merly an ancient cor- poration, being once governed by a mayor and aldermen, hut by the wars gone to de- cay." D0NERA.ILE, K3" 5 m. distant. A market and post town, giving the title of Viscount to the family of St. Leger. It is situated on the river Awbeg, over which it has a good bridge. The seat of the St. Legers, Doneraile Park, is a fine property, with a beautiful modem man- sion. There is a neat church here, a Roman Catholic chapel, and a convent. IN ear this town are several quar- II 129i 137i ON LEPT FROM DDBLIN. The Abbey of But- tevant was founded in the reign of Ed- ward I. by David de Barry. Judging from the ruins at present standing, it must have been a most magnificent house. The steeple was a high square tower erected on a Gothic arch. The founder, who was Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, was buried within the choir op- posite to the altar. KlLCOLMAN IQr 6 m. distant. A rained castle to the north- west of Doneraile. It formerly belonged to the Earls of Des- mond, but is chiefly celebrated as the resi- dence of the poet Spen- ser, who here com- posed his inimitable " Faery Queen." Ed- mund Spenser was born at Smithfield, London, in 1553. After leaving Pembroke Col- lege, Cambridge, here- paired to London, where he was patro- nised by Sir Philip Sid- ney. After vicissitudes but too common to literary aspirants, he obtained from the Crown, in June 1586, a grant of 3028 acres 121 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc.^Continued. OW BIGHT FEOM DUBLIN. The Spa House has lately been opened in order to afford hot and cold baths. •Ct Tlie branch to Ktllarney, 41 m. distant, turns cff to , right. Page 1£9. 191 STATIONS, ETC. ries of beautiful varie- gated marble. Castletowneoche, 8 m. distant IQ- from Butt evant. A fair town, with the ru:ns of a castle, once tlie seat of the Roches, Lords of FeiTuoy. The castle is built on arock, and overlooks the river Awbeg. On tlie opposite side of the river is a field known as Campfield, "from whence a battery was erected by a party of the Parliament's for- ces anno 1649, against the castle, which was then defended by the lady of Lord Roche for several dnys in a very gallant manner. This iord refused a compo- sition for his estate from 0. Cromwell." About 1 mile distant from Castletownroclie is the castie of Carrig- nacenny ; at Bridge- town, about the saiue distance, is the ruin of an %bbey founded in 1314 by Alexander Fitz-Hugh Roche, whose tomb is near the grand altar. Mallow. Mallow is a small and very respectably in- habited town, beauti- fully situated on the river Blackwater. It formed part of the territory of the Earl of Desmond, on whose at- tainder it was granted by Queen Elizabeth to 145 ON left peom DUBLIN. out of the forfeited estates of the Earl of Desmond, on condition that he should reside on the property ; and, much agciiust his will, he took up his abode in Kilcolman Castle. The country around is very romantic, and well suited to the taste of the most fanciful of English poets. The river Awbeg he terms MuUa. "Amongst the cool shadesol thegreen alders by the Mulla's shore," he sat with Raleigh m 15&9, and read to him the manu- script of his " Faery Queen." In 1598, Spenser having ren- dertd liimself obnoxi- ous to the native Irish, was attacked in hia castle, which was burned down, destroy, ing, at the ^ame time, his infant child. He escaped to London, and died broken- hearted. Mallow Castle, the seat of Sir Denham. Norreys.Bart. proprie- tor of the town. Branch to Fermot, 17 miles distant. 122 FROM DIIRLIN TO CORK, kc.-^ontinued. ON RIGHT FEOM DUBLIN. MoTJRNE Abbey, in rains. Blarney Castle is about 1^ m. distant from the station of the same name, and is more conveniently visited from Cork, The ruins are much visited by tourists on account of the celebrity of the Blarney Stone, to kiss which is an object of ambition. The stone now exhibi- ted as possessing the power of smoothing the tongue is placed on the highest part of the north-east anjile of the castle, and is inscribed with the date 1703. STATIONS, ETC. 4f Sir John Norris, who settled the crown of Portugal on the house of Braganza, and was Lord President of Munster." On the site of the town stood Short Castle, and on the south another, built by the Desmonds, which was a noble pile of buildings, destroyed during the rebellion of 1641. I^^ cr. river Black- water. The railway bridge over the Blackwater is supported by ten arches. Blarney. **Here was a castle esteemed one of the strongest in the pro- vince. It stands five miles west of Cork, upon a limestone rock close to a small river, the "Murteen," over which is a handsome bridge, and on the south side a lake of .30 acres' extent. The castle was built by Oormac M'Carty, who came into the lordship in 1449 ; in 149.5 the chief was summoned to parliament as Lord of Muskerry ; and Baron of Blarney, bv Queen Elizabeth^ in 1578 ; and in 1660 cre- ated Earl of Clancarty The castle, which was held for James II., was besieged by the forces of the 160 ON LEFT rROM DUBLIN. The country on the left side becomes very uninteresting. At St. Ann's, a mile and a-half from Blar- ney village, there is a large hydropathic estabLLshinent. 123 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK, kc^Continued ON EIGHT PEOM DUBLIN. STATIONS, ETC. B-i 1651 ON LEK FE03I DUBLIN. St. Patrick's Bridge, Cork, was partially de- stroyed by a flood on the river Lee, on the 2d November 1853. Prince of Orange. A battery placed upon an elevation compelled the garrison to give np the castle." Cork. A well-built city, finely situated on the river Lee, governed by a mayor, aldermen, 'and councillors, and re- turning two members to Parliament. See page 153. n.— FROM KILDARE TO TVATERFORD, THROUGH CARLOW AND KILKENNY. ON EIGHT PEOM KILDAEE. The line between Kil- dare and Athy keeps in a direction some- what parallel with the boundary between the counties' Kildare and Queen's. 11 82 ei STATIONS, ETC. Eildare. See page 131. Commencement of the Irish South Eastern Athy. A market town. Pop. 3908. Mageney. ON LEETl^OM KILDAEE. KiLCULLEN, O 7i m. distant. A fair and post town on the river Liffey. : Here is a pretty church, on a hill, with 14| a round tower, about half its original height. Tliistownwas formerly of more importance, and surrounded by a wall. 21 Castledeemot, *>■ 3 miles distant, "is noted for having the j fii-st charter school erected in it for 40 {children." This was once the regal resi- dence of the royal family of Dermot, but; 124 FROM KILDARE TO WATERFORD, kc—Contintteel, ON BCGHT FEOM KILDAKE. Carlow was formerly styled Catherlogh, the city of the lake. It returned two mem- bers to tlie Irish Par- liament. The town is not conspicuous for architectural beauty. On an eminence near the town is a ruin of an old castle, attri- buted to King John. «l Royal Oak, 2 m. distant, formerly well known as a posting- station. Leighlin, 2^ m. dis- tant. Formerly a borough returning two members to Parlia- ment ; patron, the bishop of the diocese. The cathedral is in good condition, and since theseewas united to Ferns has been used as a parish church. A tomb *' fronting the entrance" is pointed out as that of Bishop Cavanagh, who died in 1587. "It )« also re- ported that Gnrmun- dus, a Danish prince, was buried in this church." " It was a bishopric founded in 632, and joined to Ferns in 1600." Leigh- lin Bridge, two miles from this town, has the remains of a castle a^ 59 57 46 43 S7| STATIONS, ETC. Line enters the County Carlow. Area 221,342 acres ; pop. 51,472. Carlow. f^^ cr. river Burren. The coarser kinds of woollen clothhave long been manufactured in Carlow. A coach leaves for Tul- low on the arrival of the forenoon train. Milford. Bagnalstown. Branch line for Rorris and Wexford. Coach from Rorris to New Ross and Craigue. Line enters Comity Kilkenny. Area 509,732 acres ; pop. 109,302. i^^ cr. river Barrow. The river is here the boundary between the counties Carlow and Kilkenny. Gowran. 23 26| 30 44^ ON LEFT FEOJIC KILDARE. nothing now remains to speak of their splen- dour but an old tower. Bruce sacked the town in 1316. The town had formerly four gates, no vestiges of which now remain. The southern entrance still bears the name of Carlow gate, and the northern, Dublin gate. There remain the ruins of a Franciscan Abbey j. founded in the 13th century by Gerald, Earl o'f Kiidare. In 1377, a parliament was held in the town, and a mint instituted. GoKEs Bridge, |t> 3 m. distant. A little town on the river Bar- row, near which are situated the ruins of Bally-eUin Castle. 125 FROM KILDARE TO WATERrORD, kc.-^Continued. ON RIGHT FROM KJLDARE. and an abbey. The; 31 castle was destroyed by the native Irish in 1577. The town contains many monastic and other ecclesiastical ruins. A round tower, the cathedral, a gram- mar school, and the usual buildings belong- ing to a county town Kilkenny Castle, the seat of the Marquess of Ormonde, is boldly situated on the right bank of the river Ivore, and is one of the j largest and most mte- I resting of the castles of 1 Ireland. The Parlia- iments frequently met I here, and here was 1 passed that severe measure, tlie " Statute of Kilkenny." jgy Kells, 6 m. dis- tant, a small village containing the exten- sive remains of a castellated ecclesias- tical building. TJiere is a town of the same name in County Meath. 25 20 15| STATIONS, ETC. Kilkenny. Enter upon Waterford and Kilkenny Rail> way. In 1789, the computed population of Kil- kenny, including Irish Town, was 20,000, and four members were re- turned to Parliament J now the population is 12,664, with one repre- sentative. The mar- ket-cross, bearing date Mccc, was removed in 1771. Bennet's Bridge. A poor fair-town. The neighbourhood is stud- ded with gentlemen's seats. In the district are the ruins of En- nisnag and Awimault Castles. Thomastown. A borough and post town, founded by Tho- mas Eitzanthony, an early Saxon settler. Formerly it returned two members, the pa- tronage being in the family of Clifden. Ballyhall. Near the station is Jer- point. 51 57 62 The manufactures of Kilkenny are confined to coarse woollen stuffs and starch. The mar- ble found in the neigh- bourliood is highly prized, and largely ex- ported. See p. 147. ON LEFT FROM KILDARE. Jerpoint Abbey, on the Nore, founded by Donogh M'Gilla-Pa- trick. Prince of Ossory. In wealth, honours, and architectural splendours, Jerpoint was exceeded by no monastic institution in Ireland. The demesne lands extended over 1500 acres of fertile ground, and the build- ings included the ab- bey-church and tower, a refectory, dormitoiy, and offices that occu- pied an area of three acres. The whole of this property was granted at the dissolu- tion to Tnomas Butler, tenth Earl of Ormonde, 1^6 FROM KILDARE TO WATERFORD, ^q:— Continued. ON RIGHT FROM KILDARE. li STATIONS, ETC. ^2 ON LEFT FROM KILDARE. at an annual rent of £49 : 3 : 6. The tomb of the Founder is oppo- site the high altar. 7i Mullinavat. 74i Tort Hill becomes prominent. Greenville House. 4f Kilmacow. 771 In the distance are the ruins of Grandison Castle, called " Graney Castle." Waterford. See page 152. 85 MULLINABRO HOUSE. III.— LIMERICK JUNCTION TO TIPPERARY, CLONIVIEL, CARRICK- ON-SUIR, AND WATERFORD. ON RIGHT FROM JUNCTION. i 55 62i STATIONS, ETC. 2f ON LEFT FROM JUNCTION. Line to Killamey 79 miles, and Cork 57| miles. SLneVK-lVA-MUCK rises 1215 feet. A mountain ridge sepa- rated from the Gal- tees by the Glen of Aherlow. 1 Limerick June. Limerick and Water- ford Railway. Tipperary. The first station on the line is the old county town. It is very plea- santly situated near the base of the Slieve- na-muck or Tipperary hills. The county is one of the finest for grazing in the country. It sends four members Line to Dublin 107 miles. Tipperary. The name is beUeved to be de- rived from the Celtic Tohar-a-neldth, i. e., "the well of the plains." The popula- tion of the town ii 6000. 127 LIMERICK JUNCTION TO TIPPERAKY, CLONMEL, &c.— Continued. ON EIGHT FEOM JUNCTION. Glen Aheelow may be visited from this locality. ft Clogheen, 7 m. distant. Cahib. has the reputa- tion of being one of the "Quaker towns" — many of the inhabi- tants being members of the Society of Eriends. It is due to these people to state, that no other towns present the same neat- ness and cleanliness. The seat of the pro- prietor is in the town, and the demesne oc- cupies both sides of the river. There are extensive flour-mills m Cahir. Pop. 3719. cj Ball£donagh, 5 m. distant. Clonmel is now the assize town for the south riding of Tippe- rary County, and is one of the largest in- land towns in Ireland, It is situated on the Suir, which is navi- gable from Clonmel to Carrick and Water- 271 stations, etc. 11 to Parliament, two for the county, one for Cashel, and one for Clonmel. Its popula- tion in 1861 was 249,106. It contains 1,061,731 statute acres of land, of which 843,887 are arable, the remainder being under wood or unreclaimed Bansha. i!|^ cr. River Aher- low. Cahir. i!5® cr. River Suir. The town and castle have long been famous. The castle is beheved to occupy the site of one of much greater antiquity. It is an ir- regular structure, con- sisting of a large square keep, with extensive outworks and court- yards, and occupies the summit of a rock rising over the left bank of the Suir. Cromwell took the castle in 1650. Clonmel. On the Suir. Pop. 10,000. During the remainder of the journey, the line runs in a course paral- lel wdth the river Suir, on the Tipperary side. The Suir separates Tip- perary from the County Waterford. 7h lei m on LEET FB.0M JUNCTION. Fethaed, 12 m. (t^- distant, and 8 m. from Clonmel Station. Now a decayed town,though once of considerable importance. It con- tains the ruins of an abbey founded 1306. About a mile from the town are the ruins of Crump Castle, The town wag "built by King John, and still exhibits the ruins of its ancient fortifica' tions. 128 LIMERICK JtJNCTlON TO TIPPERARY, CLONMEL, kc.- Continued. ON RIGHT TROM p « | JUNCTION. 'f*^fe STATIONS, ETC. ford The manu- factures are woollen, but not very extensive. Laurence Sterne was born bere on the 24tb November 1713. The town is believed to have been built before the Danish invasion. •O PORTLAW, 3 m distant. Messrs. Mal- colnison of Clonmel erected a cotton mill in this town in 1818, the result of which is, that, from being an almost unknown vil- lage, it has become a town of considerable importance. The firm it is said, employs up- wards of a thousand work-people. The County Waterford closely adjoins the County Wexford on the east, from which it is separated by the es- tuaries of the Barrow and Suir combined. To the north it has Kilkenny and Lime- rick, to the west Cork, and on the south St. George's Channel. Its surface is mountain- ous, and the principal rivers that traverse it are the Blackwater and theSuic ^1^ cr. river Anney. Kilsheelan. Cartick-on-Suir. Line leaves Tipperary County, andenters Kil- kenny. Fiddown. Dunkitt Is the station at which the two lines from Kilkenny and the Li merick junction meet on their way to Water- ford, two miles distant. Waterford, The county town, situated on the south side of the river Suir in the north-east cor- ner of the county. The population in 1871 was 23,337 ; it returns two members to Par- liament. Gives the title of Marquis to the Beresford familv. (Page 152'. ON LEFT FROM JUNCTION. Glenbower, 5 m. distant. BooLET Mountains to the left. Caerick-on-Suir is so named to distin- guish it from a town on the Shannon. The town is joined to the County Waterford by a bridge over the Suir. The name is from Car- rick, a rock. The sur- rounding country is very fertile. Woollen manufactures are ex- tensively carried on. The town was formerly walied, and a portion of the wall still remains. Tlie castle is interest- ing. Pop. 6000. Waterford, which is of Danish origin, was built in 879, "but de- stroyed in 981 ; it was considerably enlarged by Strongbow in 1171,' and still further in the reitrn of Henry VII., who granted consider- able privileges to the citizens. It was, from its situation, the chief point of communica- tion with England Richard 11. landed, and was crowned here in 1399. In 1690, James II. embarked hence for Erance, after the battle of the Boyne j and King William III. resided here twice, and confirmed its privi- leges. IV,— BRANCH FROM MALLOW TO KILLARNEY. ON BIGHT FEOM MALLOW. Dromaneew Castle, nuns. LOMBAEDSTOWN HO. •€• Kanturk, 4 in. distant. The name is from " Keaniuirk, i.e. a boar's head, probably from one of these ani- mals having been slain here by some Lrish chief in former times." The Macarthvs formerly held the 'property, but forfeited it in 1641. In Queen Elizabeth'stime MacDonough Carthy commenced the erec- tion of the castle near this place. It is a parallelogram 120 feet in length by 80 in breadth, flanked by four square buildings. But being represented to th e councn as a place which might be made dangerous to govern- ment, the bmlduig was stayed. It remains as then built, in good pre- servation, and contri- butes much to the scenery of the neigh- bourhood. The town is the property of Sir Matthe\vTierney,Bart. Pop. 3000. is STATIONS, ETC. 41 86| Mallow. Page 121. 86 Lombardstown. 31 i?^?tCr.Lombardstown fiver. 291 ' Kanturk. ; This station is near the i village of Banteer. I Tor the next 20 miles of the road the scenery becomes more barreu and less interesting, • until it approaches within 8 miles of Kil- larney. ^^ cr. river Black- I water. 21 I Millstreet. ! Near the town of MiU- I street is Deishane ; Castle, the seat of I J. Wallis, Esq. The demesne is extensive. I The castle was built iin 1436 by Dermot ! MacCarthy. In 1641, his descendant Donagh forfeited the proper^. The mansion is quad- rangular, with a cen- tral tower, and strong embattled towers at the angles. u\ SMnnagli. 1^ Headford. Passing under the Paps we approach Killarney. Page 178. 10 lU 20 41 ON LEFT FROM MALLOW. Dromoee House, seat of A. IVewman, Esq. Gazabo Hill, a well- wooded conical hill, vrith a ruin on the summit. lombaedstown Wood. Mount Hilaey, 1287 feet in height. MlLLSTKKET, 1 fS" mile distant, a small, romantically situated market town, stands at the base of the Cloragh Hill. The Paps become visible, as also Tore, and in the distance the Eeeks. Plesk Castle, the seat of Daniel Cronini Coltsman, Esq. 130 DUBLIN TO CORK. This journey, wMcli is 165 J miles, takes the passenger through portions of five counties. The interesting objects on the route may be specially visited, by procuring a ticket for the nearest station, and continuing the journey by the next train. CLONDALKIN, already noticed in connection with the neighbourhood of Dublin, is interesting as affording the tourist his first view of a round tower. The tower stands at a convenient distance from the railway ; it is 85 feet 9 inches high, and surmounted with a conical top. There is a difference of 1 4 inches between the thickness of the walla in the lower and upper storey. This tower can be ascended, from the inside, on a series of ladders reaching to its sum- mit. Though no record can be traced of the building of these beautiful and interesting objects,* it is of interest to know that they present architectural excellences seldom met with in modern works. Sir John Forbes, in his " Memorandum made in Ireland," says, " Of all the relics of antiquity still preserved in Ireland — I had almost said in Europe — there are none which, in my mind, can vie in point of attractiveness with these towers. No one who sees but once their beautiful, lofty, and slender shafts shooting up into the sky, and dominating in solitary grandeur the surrounding landscape — all strikingly resem- bling one another, and resembling nothing else — but must be struck with admiration and curiosity of the liveliest kind. And yet these primary feelings are but slight in degree, when compared with those which are excited by the consideration of all the extraordinary circumstances involved in their history. That these towers have existed for upwards of a thousand years is certain, that they may have existed twice or thrice that period is far from impro- * Giraldus Cambrensis, who wrote in the twelfth century, regards theun as of too great antiquity to he traced. THE COUNTY KILDaRE. 131 bable ; but tbat the era of tlieir origin and tlie object of their erection remain as secrets yet to be unfolded, are circumstances which only add to the mysterious interest which attaches to them." THE COUNTY KILDAEE is entered about eleven miles from Dublin. The population in 1871 was 84,198 ; it returns two county members to Parliament. According to the ordnance survey, 66,447 of 392,435 acres included ■wdthin its bounds, are uncultivated, being bog or moun- tain. Since 1841 the population has decreased 30,992. The county is composed chiefly of fine arable lands. " It was anciently," says Seward, " called Chille-dair^ i. e., the wood of oaks, from a large forest which comprehended the middle part of this county. In the centre of this wood was a large plain, sacred to heathen superstition, and at present called the Curragh of Kildare ; at the extremity of this plain, about the commencement of the sixth cen- tury, St. Bridgid, one of the heathen vestals, on her con- version to the Christian faith, founded, with the assistance of St. Conlaeth, a church and monastery, near which, after the manner of the Pagans, ^S'^. Bridgid kept the sacred fire in a cell, the ruins of which are still visible." The Curragh is a large plain, the property of the Crown, containing 5000 acres of excellent pasture. It comprises the site of an important military encampment, which is the head-quarters of the south-eastern military district, and also forms the finest race-course in the kingdom. The Curragh Races take place twice in each year, in April and September. NaaSj which is most conveniently reached from Sallins Station, being three miles distant from it, is one of the principal towns in the county, and was long the royal seat of Leinster. Naas is, alternately with Athy, the assize town. Near the centre of the town is a mount or rath^ of undoubted native origin, on which, during the sixth, seventh, and eighth centuries, the states of the province of 132 DUBLIN TO CORK. Leinster assembled to deliberate ; the town was bence called Naas, which signifies the " place of the elder s^ On the arrival of the English, Naas was fortified, and bastions and towers erected to protect the walls, some of the re- mains being still visible. The Baron of Naas founded in the twelfth century an Augustinian priory, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Another was erected in the centre of the town by the Eustace family, for Dominican friars. The Hill of Allen is seen to the right from the railway, before reaching Newbridge Station. It is situated in the Bog of Allen, so well known for its extent, covering, as it does, about 300,000 acres. The general elevation, how- ever, being 270 feet above sea level, drainage has been found thoroughly efficacious in drying much of the soil, and converting into good land what was formerly, and still is nominally, bog. It is generally asserted by the Irish that the poems attributed to Ossian, and translated by Mac- pherson, are but lame piracies from the poems transmitted from parent to child in their own country. Fingal, it would seem, was no other than Fin-MacCoul, and his habitation, instead of the magical basaltic cave of StaJffa, the bleak hill of Allen, in the midst of an unlimited bog. Even the shrewd Kohl has subscribed to this idea, but justly adds — ** The Irish continually assure the stranger, that their poems are quite untranslatable, and would he as totally spoiled by transplanting into another language, as a beautiful flower by being covered with a coating of paint. No doubt it is difficult to transfer from one language to another all the delicate aroma of poetry, but Macpherson has shewn that a mere imitation, though assuredly an imperfect one, is sufficient to delight all Europe. At all events, they ought to be collected and printed in Irish." Kildare, though bearing the same name, is not the county town, but a poor miserable place, chiefly remark- able for the ecclesiastical ruins which it contains. The convert Bridget or Bridgid, after assisting St. Conlaeth to found a monastery, erected the celebrated Nunnery of St Bridget, Kildare's holy fane, in which the nuns for eight hundred years maintaiaed the " inextinguishable fire/* KILDARE. 133 until Hany, Arclibisliop of Dublin, had it extingnisbed in 1220 ; it was afterwards rekindled; but finally put out in the reign of Henry YIII. In 638, Aod Duhh, or Black Hugh, retired from the throne of Leinster, took up his abode in the Augustinian Monastery, and afterwards be- came Abbot and Bishop of EjJdare, one of the few instances on record of a crown and sceptre being resigned for a mitre and crosier. "In 756, Eiglitigin, the abbot, who was also Bishop of Kildare, was killed by a priest as he was cele- brating mass at the altar of St. Bridgid, since which time no priest whatsoever was allowed to celebrate mass in that church in the presence of a bishop." The Franciscan Abbey, for " friars of orders grey," is situated on the south side of the town. The original founder was Lord William de Yesey (1260) ; the completion of it was left to Gerald Fitz-Maurice O'Faley. De Yesey also founded, in 1290, an abbey for white friars. The town still contains a friary and nunnery, a Koman Catholic chapel, and various schools. In the churchyard, close by the cathedral, is a fine speci- men of a round tower about 110 feet in height, with a fine ornamented doorway. The original conical top has been removed, and the tower is now surmounted with a sort of parapet or battlement. The Turf Club is in the town, which is much frequented during the Curragh races. Athy^ the largest town in the county, is situated mid- way between Klldare and Carlow, on the Irish South- Eastem Eailway, and is chiefly interesting from its proximity to two historical spots. The first, the ancient Carmen, now termed Mullimast, or Mullach Mastean, " the moat of decapitation." In the reign of Elizabeth it was proposed to the neighbouring Irish chiefs to meet at this spot to have their mutual animosities and grievances ex- plained and rectified. The chiefs came cheerfully to Carmen, where it is said the Kulers of the Pale were mas- sacred, to the number of 400. The "Rath" of Mullagh- mast was the scene of the last of the great " monster meetings" held by O'Connell, and here he was presented 134 DUBLIN TO CORK. with tlie crown-like cap, wMch lie afterwards occasionally wore in public. " The moat of Ascul," about four miles from the town, has a more honourable memory. Here, in 1315, the Scots, under Edward Bruce, fought a sanguinary battle in behaK of Irish freedom, defeating the English, who were commanded by Sir Hamon le Gros. QUEEN'S COUNTY is entered about thirty-three miles from Dublin. It sends two county members to Parlia- ment. The area amounts to 424,854 statute acres, of which 69,289 are unproductive, being mountain or bog. In 1841 the population was 153,930, in 1871 it had diminished to 77,071. Maryborough, so named in honour of Queen Mary, in whose reign the county was separated from the King's County, is the county town. About four miles distant, on the property of Lord Congleton, is the " Rock of Dun-a- mase," which was formerly completely covered with fine oak trees, but is now quite bare. This was the site of the castle of MacMorrough, King of Leinster. It was fre- quently taken by the Irish, and again recaptured by the English. Dr. Ledwick thus describes the spot. " The rock is an elliptical conoid, accessible only on the eastern side, which, in its improved state, was de- fended by a barbican. From the barbican you advance to the gate of the lower ballium. It is seven feet wide, and the walls are six feet thick. It had a parapet, creneles, and embrasures. The lower ballium is 312 feet from north to south, and 160 from east to west. You then arrive at the gate of the upper ballium, which is placed in a tower ; and from this begin the walls which divide the upper and lower ballium. The former is a plain of 111 feet from east to west, and 202 from north to south. On the highest pai-t was the keep, and the apartments for officers." This place was originally the royal residence of Laoisach Hy-Mora^lh. The foundation of the fortress is ascribed to LaigseacQ, early in the third century. The Hy-Moradh family became united with the Hy-Morraghs, and hence the fortress passed into the royal family of Leinster. With Eva, tlS'^. John^s, known as the Lantern of Ireland, from the number of its windows, was formerly an abbey founded in the thirteenth century, afterwards much dilapidated, but re-edified in 1817, and since used as a parish church. Black Ahhey^ also founded in the thirteenth century, now . a "Roman Catholic chapeL It would be impossible within our limits to notice all the ruins and memorials with which Kilkenny abounds, or to do full justice to those which we do notice. Days may be well spent in searching them out. Kilkenny was the birth-place of the Irish Walter Scott^ John Banim, who represented the character of his country. 150 DUBLIN TO CORK. men with more truth and pictui'esque ejffect than any other of the Irish novelists. At Kilkenny several trials for witchcraft have taken place, the most remarkable being that of Lady Alice Kettel in 1325.* Jerpoint Abhey, one mile from Thomasto"\vn Station on the Waterford and Kilkenny Eailway, and twelve miles south of Kilkenny, is a very interesting ruin, situated on the river Nore. " In wealth, honours, and architectural splendours," writes N. P. Willis, " Jerpoint was exceeded by no other monastic institution in Ireland. The demesne lands extended over 1500 acres of fertile ground, and the buildings included the abbey-church and tower, a refectory, dormitory, and offices, that occupied an area of three acres. The whole of this property, bequeathed for objects purely sacred, was granted at the Dissolution to Thomas Butler, tenth Earl of Ormonde, at an annual rent of £49 : 3 : 9." The founder was Donald M^Gilla Patrick, Prince of Ossory ; his tomb is placed opposite the high altar, ornamented with two recumbent figures. The archi- tecture combines the Anglo-Norman and the Gothic styles ; what remains is extremely beautiful, but wantonness and neglect have well nigh completed the destruction of this once extensive and beautiful structure. The tourist who is desirous of exploring the varied beauties of scenery with which the banks of the river Nora abound, from Kilkenny to its junction with the Barrow, * The following is a paragraph from a letter by Mr. Crofton Croker, on the subject of witchcraft in Ireland, published in the Dublin Journal : — ** Irel'and has been, in my opinion, unjustly stigmatized as a barbarous and superstitious country. It is certain that the cruel persecution carried on against poor and ignorant old women was as nothing in Ireland when compared with other countries. In addition to the three executions at Kilkenny, a town the inhabitants of which were almost entirely either Eng- lish settlers or of English descent, I only remember to have met with an account of one other execution for the crime of witchcraft. The latter took place at Antrim in 1699, and it is, I believe, the last an record. The par- ticulars of this siUy tragedy were printed in a pamphlet entitled, * The be- witching of a Child in Ireland,' and from thence copied by Professor Sinclair, in his work entitled, ' Satan's Invisible World Discovered,' which Sb frequently referred to by Sir Walter Scott in his Letters on Demonology." COUNTY WATERFORD. 151 near New Eoss, will find Thomastown a good central Btation. The town itself is poor, but situated in a very- picturesque country^ and contains an inn where convey- ances can be obtained. Kells, also reached from Thomastown Station, from which it is 7^ miles distant, is an ancient city, founded by a fol- lower of Earl Strongbow's, called Geo&ey Fitz-Robert, his object being to provide a garrison for the subjugation ol .the Tipperary Irish, Like most other of the invaders, he sought peace to his conscience by founding a religious house, which gradually became a place of greater import- ance until dissolved in the reign of Henry VIII. The Prior was a spiritual lord in Parliament. Portions of the ruins, comprising the remains of towers and walls and the cloisters, still attract some attention to the place. There is a town of Kells in the county of Meath, where a monastery was founded by the famous St. Columbkille ; also a third place of the same name in the County Antrim. COUNTY WATERFORD is situated south of the counties of Tipperary and Kilkenny, bounded on the west by the County Cork, and on the south by St. George's Channel. The County is generally mountainous, crossed as it is by Kjiockmeledown, Cummeragh, Monevolagh, and other hill-ranges, but toward the east its surface is low and marshy. The area amounts to 461,553 acres, of which three-fourths are arable, and 24,000 acres laid out in plan- tations. In 1871, the population was 99,488 (excluding the city), which gives an average of about four acres to each inhabitant, being nearly the average for Ireland. 152 WATERFORD. HoTiLS.— The Imperial and The Adelphi, on the MalL The Commercial, on the Quay. Mail cars to Lismore— to Bungarvan— to Dunmore — to Wexford (Fethard) — and to Waterford via New Ross. Markets on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. The City of Waterford, whicli is situate on tlie Suit, here crossed by a wooden bridge of 39 arcbes, was anciently' known by the name of Guanna-Grioth, or the Haven of the Sun. It was afterwards called Gleanrir-na-Gleodh, or Valley of Lamentation, from the tremendous conflicts between the Irish and the Danes. By old Irish authors it is frequently named, from its shape, the Port of the Thigh, It was founded in 155, and became a considerable town under Sitric in 853. On the lower end of the quay is a Danish tower, built in 1003, known as Reginald's Tower, from the founder Reginald, son of Imar. In 1171, when Strongbow and Raymond le Gros took Waterford, it was inhabited by Danes, who, with the exception of the Prince of the Danes and a few more, were put to death. It was here that Earl Strongbow was married to Eva, daughter of the King of Leinster, and here too that Henry II. first landed in Ireland to take possession of the country which had been granted to him by the bull of Pope Adrian. There is a good quay on the Suir at Waterford. The city has a population of 23,337, and returns two members to Parliament. steamers saU to and from Liverpool (229 miles) twice a week. Between Waterford and Bristol twice a week. Between Waterford and Milford Haven daily, in connection with express trains on the Great Western and South Wales Railways. Between Waterford and Duucannon and New Ross liaiiy. lUl-.lidi.vl I'V^I U^SL,J',iJ;n^,-ro1i. 153 COUNTY COEK. County Cork is the most soutlierly and the largest of the shires of Ireland. It belongs to the province of Munster. Its boundaries are — on the north, Limerick ; on the north-east, Tipperary ; on the east, Waterford ; and on the south and south-west, the Atlantic. It is divided into East and West Eidings, and has a total area of 1,849,685 acres ; of which 1,416,994 are arable, 32,709 are laid out in timber, and 379,574 lie waste. The remaining 6040 are occupied by the city of Cork, and the towns of Youghal, Bandon, Kinsale, etc. The western surface of the county is mountainous, that on the north and east rich and fertile. In the south-east the Silurian strata crop up, though old red sandstone and mountain limestone prevail elsewhere. Copper and coal are found among its minerals. The chief crops raised on its cultured soil are wheat, oats, potatoes, etc. The county is well watered, small lakes are numerous in it, the rivers Lee and Bandon hold their whole course through it, and the Blackwater affords along the greater part of its length facilities for inland navigation by barges as far as Cappoquin in Waterford. Cork is supposed to have been peopled by an immigration of Iberians from Spain, and previous to 1172 it formed the kingdom of the Macarthys. The population in 1871 was 516,046. COEK. Hotels.— Imperial, Pembroke Street ; Royal Victoria, Patrick Street ; Commercial, Pembroke Street ; Hibernian, George's Street. The city of Cork had in 1861 a population of 80,121 ; and in 1871, 78,382. It may be reached by steam- packets from London, Liverpool, Glasgow, Milford Haven, Bristol, Plymouth, Cardiff, etc. ; and by railway from Dublin direct by the Great Southern and Western Eail- way (165^ miles). 154 CORK. Cabs. — ^The fares for jaunting cars (by time or distance) are fixed by tlie Corporation, and may be learned at the hotels, etc. Special public cars ply to Blackrock, Blarney, Glanmire, Passage, and Queenstown. Cork is generally termed tlie capital of the south. It returns two members to Parliament, and is a corporate city, governed by a mayor, sixteen aldermen, and forty-eight councillors, with a staff of paid officials. The town is situated on the banks of the river Lee, which, after passing the city, widens out into a splendid bay or inlet of the sea, containing the Great Island, on which is situated the town of Cove, now changed into Queenstown. The southern extremity of this inlet is called the Cove of Cork. Cork had long been the home of a Pagan temple, on the site of which St. Fionn Bar, the anchorite from Gougane Barra, founded a monastery in the beginning of the seventh century. The Danes, who in the ninth century overran the kingdom, are said to have been the founders of the city, and to have surrounded it with walls, although it is more probable that under St. Fionn Bar it had assumed a degree of importance, seeing that it is recorded that his seminary was attended by 700 scholars, " who flocked in from all parts."* The inhabitants of Cork frequently devastated the whole country round, and were in turn punished by the neigh- bouring chiefs. The English settlers who had obtained a footing were held in great dislike by the natives, who for several centuries looked upon them as lawful spoil. The McCarthys and O'Mahonys were ancient proprietors of the country. In 1493, Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, was received in Cork with regal honours, in reward for which, the deluded mayor was hanged and beheaded, and the city lost its then ancient charter, which was however restored to it in 1609. Kalph Holingshed the chronicler, * " Corroch or Corcagh, the Irish name of Cork, is, like all Irish names of places, strikingly descriptive. It signifies a swamp, to which the situation of the city, on two marshy islands, fully entitles it. The whole district on the south and west of the river Lee was called Corcagh Luighe, i.e., Cork o/ the Lee." CORK. 155 whose works were published in 1577, thus describes the state of the city of Cork : — *' On the land side they are encumbered with evil neighbours — the Irisah outlaws, that they are fain to watch their gates hourlie, to keep them shut at service-time, and at meales, from sun to sun, nor suffer anie stranger to enter the citie with his weapon, but the same to leave at a lodge appointed. They walk out at seasons for recreation with power of men furnished. They trust not the country adjoining, but match in wedlocke among them- selves onlie, so that the whole citie is well nigh linked one to the other in aflfinitie." In the war of the Protectorate, Cork held out as a loyal city, but in 1649 was surprised and taken. The cruelties perpetrated by the conqueror and his soldiers are well known.* Though Cork is now a well built and really handsome city, if we except some of the meaner streets in the northern part, the houses were at one time so closely packed, and the streets so narrow, that it might be said of most of them as of the " auld brig o' Ayr, " poor narrow footpath o' a street, Where twa wheelbarrows tremble when they meet." One narrow lane, not a dozen feet wide, still bears the distinguishing title of " Broad Lane." " In Old Bridewell Lane, a passage not more than four feet in breadth, stood the corn- market. In similar narrow lanes were to be foimd the fish-market, post-office, and assembly-rooms. In Dingle Lane stood the old theatre, upon whose boards Barry and Mossop delighted their audience, about the middle of the last century." The principal modem streets are ia that portion of the town known as the island, * " It is related that Cromwell, during his short sojourn in Cork, caused the church bells to be cast into cannon. On being remonstrated with against committing such a profanity, he replied that as a priest had been the inventor of gunpowder, he thought the best use for bells w6uld be to cast them into cannons. The jest is not very brilliant, but as one of the few that Cromwell attempted, it is worthy of being preserved." It was in Cork that William Penn, the father of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism. He visited the city in order to look after some ol his father's property, and changed his religion under the preaching of one Thomas Loe. He was thrown into prison with eighteen fellow-converta, bat soon after released. 156 CORK. bounded almost completely by the river. This island is con- nected with the shores on either side by six bridges, foui spanning the stream on the south, and two on the north. Patrick's Bridge crosses the stream which bounds the city on the north. It was erected from the plan and under the superintendence of Sir John Benson, in 1860, the material being chiefly limestone. It occupies the site of the old bridge erected in 1798, which was partially de- stroyed by a flood in 1851. The width of the new bridge is sixty feet between the parapets, and is thus broader than any bridge over the Thames except that at Westminster. Its roadway and footpath are laid with granite. Parliament Bridge is on the south side, leading into the South Mall. It is a fine bridge, not much inferior to St. Patrick's. The other bridges are of no note. On the north is North Bridge, and on the south are Clark's, South, and Anglesea Bridges. The streets deserving of notice are >S'^. Patrick Street^ where a handsome statue of Father Mathew, the Apostle of Temperance, has been erected. It forms a sort of crescent, extending in a westerly direc- tion to the Grand Parade, and is of great width, but un- fortunately for architectural effect, the houses are so irre- gular as regards elevation and condition, as in a measure to destroy the beauty of the whole. Grand Parade is a fine straight street, but has the same fault as St. Patrick Street. The tourist will hardly believe that, when crossing either of these streets, he has a deep channel underneath his feet ; yet such is the truth. An equestrian statue of George II. used to be a conspicuous object on the parade, until one night, some years ago, it disappeared and was found in the river ! The South Mall runs at right angles with the Parade. Though not the widest, it is yet the most respectable street in Cork, being occupied by professional men, and the chief merchants. About a hundred years ago the middle of this street was a river, and the south side formed one side of a triangular island, the other two sides being formed by Charlotte Quay and Morrison Quay. The bank of Ire- MARDYKE. 157 land, the Stamp Office, and the Comity Club House, are situated in this street — the latter building erected in 1826 at an outlay of £4000 ; as also the Commercial Buildings, the Protestant Hall, and the Cork Library. Great George^ & Street is the newest and most regular street in Cork ; it is continued as the Western Road. Parallel with this latter is the celebrated Mardyke, once the promenade of the fashionables of Cork, though now consigned to the tradespeople and shop keepers. It still forms a fine avenue extending to a dis- tance of a mile, and overshadowed by tall elm trees, whose luxuriant branches entwine above in a roof of soft verdure. The aspect of this road is varied, if not heightened, by a row of lamps suspended overhead. To the left we have a view of the Queen's College, a handsome quadrangular structure in the Tudor Gothic style, situated on a slight eminence over the southern fork of the river. Cork, though a well-built city, cannot vie with Dublin in its public buildings. The principal edifices are the following : — The Custom House, which is a handsome building, occu- pies a tongue of land, where the two streams meet at a somewhat acute angle on the eastern side of the city. To the east of it is the whole stretch of the river Lee ; on the north the terminus of the railway to Dublin ; and on the south the Cork and Bandon and the Cork and Passage Eailway termini. Shandon Church (St. Ann's) is a plain, rather grotesque- looking edifice, with a steeple which seems as if built in storeys. The church was begun in 1722, "and its steeple was constructed of hewn stone from the Franciscan Abbey, where James H. heard mass, and from the ruins of Lord Barry's castle, which had been the official residence of the lords-president of Munster, and from whence this quarter of the city takes its name — Shandon (Seandun) signifying in Irish the old fort or castle." * Three sides of the steeple aie budt of limestone, and the fourth of a red stone. Its ♦ Crofton Croker. 158 CORK. height is 120 feet. Shandon, however, has a good chime of bells, which, although not very excellent in themselves, are celebrated on account of the lyrics which they have given rise to. We quote two stanzas from that by the Rev. Francis Mahony. *• With deep affection ** I have heard bells chiming And recollection Fnll many a clime in, I often think on Tolling sublime in Those Shandon bells, Cathedral shrine ; Whose sound so wild would While at a glib rate In the days of childhood, Brass tongues would vibrate, Fling round my cradle But all their music Their magic spells. Spoke nought like thine." The Royal Cork Institution was founded in 1803 "for the diffusion of knowledge, and the improvement of the ' arts and sciences." The library is extensive, embracing valuable modem works, and interesting Irish manuscripts. The museum contains, among other treasures, a series of stones " inscribed with the Ogham character, peculiar to Ireland, and used by the Druids previous to the intro- duction of Christianity, when those simple letters were gradually discarded, and the Roman substituted." The Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar is on the south side of the southern stream. " In the reign of Edward IV. there were eleven churches and parishes in and adjoining the city. Some of these have long ceased to exist, but their loss has been amply compensated by the number of churches, chapels, and dissenting houses of worship, which have sprung up in modem times." The cathedral has no great beauty to recommend it to the tourist's special atten- tion. It is a small building, with plain exterior and in- terior. The original edifice stood in a state of ruin until 1725, when it was taken down, and rebuilt ten years after. A large and handsome Transition-Norman edifice has been erected from a design by Mr. Burgess of London. St. Patrick^s Roman Catholic Church is a neat building in the Grecian order of architecture. A portico stands in front supported by eight lofty columns ; a cupola rests on QUEEN S COLLEGE. 159 the roof, borne upon eight Corinthian columns, each sur- mounted by a figure representing one of the apostles. A cross rises over the whole. JSL Mary's Churchy belonging to the Dominicans, is an- other Grecian structure. The hexastyle portico is Ionic. The Eoman Catholic Church of 8S. Peter and Paul, off St. Patrick Street, is a rich Gothic building, designed by E. W. Pugin, which cost about £30,000. The City Gaol is at tiie north-west angle of the towTi. It is a spacious castellated building, with a himdred and two separate cells, being fifty-four for male, and forty-eight for female prisoners. A portion is appropriated to the confinement of prisoners previous to their committal by the magistrates. The C-ounty Gaol is separated from the last by the two rivers, the Mardyke, and the Western Road. From the latter it is approached. This prison is nearly self-supporting. The inmates are taught weaving, mat-making, shoemaking, tailoring, etc. It is afcmed that "634 have been instructed in one year, in various trades and employments, of which they knew nothing whatever on entering the prison." QUEEN'S COLLEGE occupies a picturesque site on a rock rising fully forty feet above the level of the southern branch of the stream. Gill Abbey, founded in the seventh century by Gill Ada, bishop of Cork, stood on the same site. The college buildings consist of three sides of a quadrangle, in the Gothic style of architecture, and com- posed of mountain limestone. Sir Thomas Deane was the architect, and IVIr. John Butler of Dublin the builder. In 1849 the College was opened. The examination hall, the museimi, the lecture rooms, and the library, are worthy of a visit. The tower commands a fine view of the city and the Lee, while the northern side of the quadrangle is occupied by official residences. As the principles of the Queen's Colleges of Cork, Galway, and Belfast are iden- tical, it will not be out of place here to give a sketch of that of Cork as illustratinpj the whole. 160 CORK. Tlie college is open to all religious sects. There are eighteen professors teaching languages and sciences, including Greek, Latin, and the modern, tongues ; medicine, surgery, natural history, botany, geology mathematics, and chemistry ; besides classes for engineering, political economy, and law. The degrees conferable by the college are M.D., LL.D., LL.B., and Bachelor of Engineering. Four years' study is required for the Master of Arts degree, which costs in class and other fees £32. The degree of A.B. may be had in three years at a cost of £29. In order to encourage a spirit of emulation among the students, scholarships are open to them in literature and science. As an example of the system pursued in conferring scholarships and degrees, we will quote from a prospectus the course of study Required for the diploma of engineering. The term of study is three years. Before entering they must pass a matriculation examination on the following subjects : — The outlines of Modem Geography — Grammar — Mathematics — Arith- metic—Algebra—Euclid, Books I. to IV. and V., and definitions of Book V. Students who liave passed the matriculation examination are admitted to the examinations for scholarships of the first year, of which there are two. Course for the Degree in Civil Engineering. First Session.— Mathematics (First Course)— Chemistry— Modem Lang- uages — Geometrical Drawing — Office Work — Mineralogy, Geology, and Physical Geography. Second Session. — Mathematics (Second Course) — Experimental Physics —Civil Engineering— Office Work— Field Work. Third 6^cssio7i.— Natural Philosophy, applied— Mathematical Physics- Civil and Mechanical Engineering— Office Work— Field Work— Engineering Excursions. Attendance on these Courses shall in all cases be under- stood to include passing such examinations as may be ap- pointed by the College Council, as well as the Catechetical parts of the courses of the lecture. The students are compelled to lodge in licensed board- ing houses, which are under the inspection of " Deans of Eesidences." There are three Deans — one an Episcopalian, one a Presbyterian, and one a Roman Catholic. The Agricultural Model School, situated on the new BaUincollig road, about a mile to the west of the Queen's College, is a limestone building of the Elizabethan charac- ter, and has attached improved offices and a farm of about 180 acres. Pupils receive a moderate literary education, practical instruction in farming, and are boarded at the rate of ^8 per year. PUBLIC liUILDINGS. l61 The District Lunatic Asylum is calculated to contain 530 classified patients. It is in the Gothic style of archi- tecture, consisting of three buildings. The Eoraan Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity is a Gothic building, chiefly interesting from having been founded by the late Theobald Mathew, the apostle of tem- perance. The stained glass window which it contains was purchased with the fund raised in Cork for the O'Connell monument. Father Mathew received the rudiments of his education at Kilkenny, thence he proceeded to Maynooth, and in Dublin took orders. In Cork he commenced his labours, and also his career as the preacher of temperance. His brother-in-law, a distiller, supplied him with funds, but was at length brought to bankruptcy. Government settled upon him an annuity of ^300, in consideration of his exertions as a moral reformer. The Corn Exchange is a spacious erection, containing a Northern Hall, 75 feet square, by 45 feet high. The Atherioeum, Nelson Place, is a large building, got up by subscription as a lecture-hall, concert-room, and ball- room. Its exterior is of Bath stone, in Eoman Doric ; the interior is Coiinthian, with fluted pillars. The Union Workhouse, the largest in the country, was opened for paupers in 1840. The building consists of a centre and two wings, with workshops, schools, and hospi tals. The inmates work at tailoring, weaving, and other trades. A large corn-mill is attached, which is worked by the paupers. St, Joseph's Cemetery is about a mile distant from town. It was formerly the Botanic Garden, and was converted into a cemetery by Father Mathew in 1830. The ground is well laid out, and neatly planted, after the style of the famous Pere la Chaise, near Paris. Among the finer specimens of sepulchral architecture which it contains, is a sarcophagus of Portland stone, surmounted by a figure of an angel, by Hogan, a native of Cork, in white Italian marble. To the south-west of the town is the Lough of Cork, a M 162 QUEENRTOWN-. sheet of water, only interesting as tlie sr»ene of one of Crofton Croker's fairy legends. " He says that it was once a small fairy well, covered by a stone, con- cerning which a tradition had been handed down from remote times, which predicted, that if the stone which covered the well were not replaced every morning after the dwellers in the valley had taken from it their daily supply of water, a torrent would rush forth and inundate the valley, and drown all the inhabitants. This calamity was at length incurred by a cer- tain princess, who, neglecting the injunction, forgot to close the mouth ol the well, and caused the destruction of her father and his people." An interest of a more practical kind is attached to the three reservoirs, situated about 300 feet above the level of the city, which supply the inhabi tants with two and a half million gallons of fresh water from the river Lee. These waterworks were constructed at a cost of £70,000, which, considering their extensive character, may be considered as very moderate. Few towns in Ireland can boast a wider range of ably supported benevolent and charitable institutions than Cork. Besides a savings bank and two charitable loan societies, it has infirmaries and hospitals for fever, lunacy, and other infirmities. It can boast no less than eight scientific institutions. But, as a proof of the prevalent destitution and improvidence, it is only necessary to state that there are no less than thirty-three pawnbrokers within the city. QUEENSTOWN, OE THE COYE OF CORK. steamers from Patrick's Bridge all the way, four times a day. Railway to Passage every even hour ; thence per steamer to and from Queenstown. Railway from Summer Hill terminus all the way every hour. Distance from Cork to Queenstown, 11 miles. Patrick's Bridges. River Lee. Great Island. Merchant's Quay. Blackrock. Queenstown. Custom House. Passage. Spike Island, Monkstown. Hotel at Queenstown : The Queen's. Fares for Rowing Boats. Queenstown to Spike or Hawlbowline, with four oars, Is. ; with two oars, 6d. To Rostellan, 3s. 6d. or Is. 6d. Boats not detained more than half an hour convey the passengers back for half the fare. BLACKROCK. 16^ Hiring by the Hour, For the first hour Is. or 9d. ; for every hour after the first 6d. Hiring by the Day. Hired at Cork, 7s. 6d. or 4s. ; at Blackrock, 7s. or 3s. 6d. ; at Queens* town, Monkstown, or Passage, 5s. or 2s. 6d. To Cloyne — Oared boat to Rostellan, thence by road passing — Saleen. I Cloyne. I Round Tower. Castle Mary. | Cathedral. | The sail from Mercliaiit's Quay to Queenstown should be preferred if the weather be fine and time not pressing. It ajffords the tourist the most complete view of the river below Cork. If the rail to Passage be taken, the steamer from thence proceeds through the wider portion of the liarbour to Queenstown. BLACEJEIOCK is the first promontory worthy of note. From the distance its appearance is truly picturesque, presenting the idea of a formidable old castle, standing out on a tongue of land against the clear waters of the Lee. The mansion is one of modern construction, and is familiar to almost every one from the many views of it published. Blackrock is supposed to be the place from which William Penn embarked for America. The steamer, shortly after leaving this station, enters a wider portion of the river,, known as Loch. Mahon. Foaty Island, the property of J. S. Barry, Esq., is passed on the left. PASSAGE, whicli is about six miles from Cork, is the next station. It is a little town, of some note as a water- ing-place. Here the passenger who comes by Blackrock railway goes on board the steamer. GLENBBOOK, haK a mile further, is a pretty village supplied with baths. {Hotel : Royal Victoria.) MONKSTOWN {Hotels: Imperial and Victoria) is situated about a mile from Passage, and beyond it the river widens out into a lake. The castle, which is now a ruin, was built in 1636. The story of its erection is 164 Q UEENSTOWN. curious. During tlie absence of her husband In Spain, Anastatia Goold took it into her bead to build a family mansion, and being not over well provided with means, hit upon the expedient of supplying the workmen with food and other necessaries at her own 'price, while she, by purchasing largely, had a good profit on the transaction. It is said that her profits cleared the expense of the erec- tion, with the exception of an odd groat. This is perhaps the earliest account we have of the " truck system." QUEENSTOWN (Hotel: The Queen's), on the south side of Great Island, was originally called Cove, and received its present appellation from the visit of her Majesty in 1849. The town, which is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the shore, bears with it the resemblance of a more southern clime, and, seen from the water, to which it presents its whole extent at one view, has a most charming aspect. It is much frequented by invalids, on account of the mildness and salubrity of the climate. The town contains a Catholic cathedral and a handsome Pro- testant church. Among the surrounding islands SPIKE ISLAND is most conspicuous, and the largest. It is a convict depot, with accommodation for 2000 men, who are employed in excavating, building, and various handicrafts. Admittance is gained by an order from the governor. Between this island and Hawlbowline the go- vernment are constructing a new dock and basin. ROCKY ISLAND contains the powder magazine, which occupies six chambers excavated in the solid rock. It usually contains about 10,000 barrels of gunpowder, be- sides other species of ammunition. An order from the commandant of the ordnance department is required for the magazine. HAWLBOWLINE is an island opposite the last. It contains the ordnance stores, an armoury, and a tank capable of holding 5000 tons of fresh water. No restric- tion is placed upon visitors to the island. THE HARBOUR OF CORK. 16S THE HAEBOUE OF CORK is one of the most exten- sive and commodious in tlie United Kingdom, being capable of affording shelter to the entire British navy. Into it Drake retreated when hotly pursued by thf- Spanish fleet. Crosshaven is the name of the creek into which he sailed, and where he was so effectually hidden, that the Spaniards were completely lost in conjecture as to his whereabouts, and actually spent days in fruitless search for him in the river, concluding that nothing short of magic could have taken him so suddenly out of their grasp. The spot is to this day known as " Drake's Pool." Every tourist who has sailed down the Cork river as far as the harbour, is enthusiastic in praise of the scenery. Arthur Young states, that " the country on the harbour he thought preferable, in many respects, to anything he had seen in Ireland." Another author states, that " no part of the scenery is barren or uninteresting ; a perpetual variety is presented along the whole course. The eye, whilst lingering over some happy picture, is continually attracted by some new succession possessing all the charms of the most romantic landscape." Sir John Forbes thinks *' it would be difficult to over- praise the beauty of the river from Cork to Queenstown, or the magnificent harbour or inland bay in which it ter- minates, more especially when these are seen under the influence of a bright sun and a brilliant sky. Indeed, every element of beauty that can mingle in such a scene seemed to be here comprised ; we had a stream ever vary- ing in its course and outline, of ample breadth, yet not too broad to prevent distinct recognition of the objects on its banks ; water of a colour and purity like the sea , lofty barriers on either side, covered with rich woods and inter- mingled with green park-like fields and shining villas ; here and there white villages on level patches of shore ; and the whole animated, and, as it were, humanized by the peopled steamers sweeping up and down, the boats and yachts sailing or pulling about, and a ship or t^^o at anchoi 166 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK. (decked our in their national flags) in every bay that opened out upon us as we pursued our course." Dr. Scott of Queenstown writes that " the salubrity of the climate is such that it has been chosen as a residence by many invalids who would otherwise have sought the far-off scenes of Montpellier or Madeira, with their vehe- ment suns and less temperate vicissitudes of climate. An admirable equa- bility of climate, and an absence of sudden and violent interruptions, are the great characteristics which have so beneficially marked out this town to the ailing and debilitated, and established its reputation." It is interesting to note, that the Eev. Charles WoKe, author of the incomparable lines on the burial of Sir John Moore, beginning — " Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note," who died at Cove, of consumption, in 1823, lies interred on Great Island. At Roches Point, four miles south of Queenstown, the American mail steamers land and receive the letter bags. EXCURSIONS FROM CORK. To ROSTELLAN and CLOYNE (page 167). To BLARNEY (page 169). To YOUGHAL and the BLACKWATER (page 172). To Rostellan and Cloyne by steamer daily to Aghada. Rostellan Castle, formerly the princely seat of the O'Briens, Marquesses of Thomond, now the property of J. P. Wise, Esq. On the decease of the late Marquess in 1855, all the family titles became extinct, with the excep- tion of the Irish Barony of Inchiquin, which descended to his kinsman Sir Lucius O'Brien, Bart., now Lord Inchiquin. The modern mansion, beautifully situated at the eastern end of the Cove of Cork, occupies the site of an ancient castle of the Fitzgerald s, who were for centuries seneschals of Imokilly. In the castle is an ancient sword said to have belonged to the great Brian Boroimhe, the ancestor of the O'Briens. The demesne, which is extensive and CLOYNE. 167 well planted, contains an ancient cromlaec on the shore of Saleen creek. Visitors are freely admitted. Proceeding to Clojoie we pass the hamlet of Saleen and the property of Castle Mary, the seat of Mountiford Longfield, in the vicinity of which is another of those dmidical remains, known as cromlechs. " It is an immense mass of limestone of an oblong shape, one end resting on the ground, and the other extremity supported by two huge upright stones." The large stone is fifteen feet long by about eight in breadth, and three to four in thickness. " Adjoining this great altar is a smaller one of a triangular shape, and, like the other, it is supported by two uprights in an inclined position. It is supposed that this lesser stone might have been used for the purposes of common sacrifice, while the greater altar was reservejd for occasions of extraordinary solemnity.""^ The belief that these cromlechs were not altars but frame-works for the accumlation of cairns, has already been noticed. The writer we have just quoted states that " an ingenious conjecture has been advanced, that they were placed in an inclined position, to allow the blood of victims slain upon them to run off freely." Cer- tain it is that most if not all cromlechs already discovered have an inclined position, CLOYNE, a small but ancient town, is situated in the limestone valley of Imokilly, surrounded by sandstone hills, and about a mile from Castle Mary. Thus near a heathen altar a Christian church was erected in the sixth century by the pious St. Coleman, a disciple of St. Fionn Bar or Finbar. '^ The ancient name of the place," we are told, " was Cluaineuamhach, or the retreat of the caverns, the propriety of the designation being evident from the numerous caves which exist in the neighbourhood. One very remarkable cavern may be seen in a part of the Episcopal demesne, called the Eock Meadow." The por- tions of the cathedral remaining are the choir, 70 feet in length ; the nave, 120 feet in lergth ; and the north * J. S. Coyne. l68 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK. and sontli transepts, tile former of which had heen rebuilt by Bishop Agar, in 1776, in a style not at all in harmony with the ancient character of the original design* The building has been much repaired and altered, but contains much more of the ancient edifice than most other Irish cathedral churches can boast of possessing. On the death, in 1835, of the celebrated astronomer Brinkley, who was Bishop of Cloyne, the see was reunited, in accordance with the provisions of the Church Temporalities Act, to Cork and Ross, from which it had been separated in 1678. Bishop Berkeley, celebrated as an immaterialist, whose private charac- ter called from Pope the declaration that he possessed " Every virtue under heaven," but whose views also gave rise to Byron's satirical lines, " Bishop Berkeley says there is no matter, Which proves it is no matter what he says," held the see in the time of George II. He was born at Thomastown in 1684, and attended the same school in Kilkenny as Swift. He afterwards obtained a fellowship in Trinity College, Dublin, became chaplain to the Earl of Peterborough on his embassy to Italy, and was appointed in 1724 to the deanery of Derry. Bermuda was visited by him some time after, for the purpose of establishing a college for native teachers, an undertaking in which he lost a considerable part of the fortune which had been left to him by Esther Johnson, Swift's Stella. Berkeley was consecrated Bishop of Cloyne in 1734, and died very suddenly at Oxford in 1753. In the churchyard adjoining the cathedral are the ruins of a little building called " the Fire House." It is believed that until the beginning of the last century this building contained the remains of the founder. Near the church is a nearly complete round tower, originally ninety- two feet high. The summit being injured by lightning, an embattlement was added, raising it to a height of 102 feet. Dr. Smith gives the following account of the catastrophe : ** On the night of the 10th of January a flash of lightning rent the coni- cal top, -tumbled down the bell and three lofts, forced its way through one side of the building, and drove the stones, which were admirably well joined and locked into each other, through the roof of an adjoining stable. " *^ An altar-tomb in the north transept, with the shattered remains of a mailed figure, belonged to the Fitzgeralds. The Fi]p& Roll of Cloyne is now in the Record Office, Dublin. 169 CORK TO BLARNEY. Distance, 5 miles. — Cars for 2s. 6d. or 3s. — Rail, 16 minntes. Tlie romantic scenery of the " Groves," and the Magic Stone of " Blarney," may be visited from Cork either by rail or by car. The latter arrange- ment is usually adopted, and the north bank of the river preferred, on account of the beauty of the country through which the road passes. A good \'iew is also obtained on the way of Carrigrohan Casile pir. M'Swiney), picturesquely situated on a steep limestone rock on the opposite bank. BLARNEY CASTLE was built in tlie 15tli century by Cormac M^Caithy, or by the Countess of Desmond. It consists now of the massive donjon tower about 120 feet in height, and another lower portion less substantial, though almost strong enough to warrant the conjecture that before the introduction of gunpowder it must have been impreg- nable. It is almost as marvellous as the power attributed to the Blarney Stone, that a few lines, containing in themselves no merit save their absurdity, should succeed in gaining a world-wide notoriety for a place which otherwise would scarcely have been celebrated beyond its own vicinity. The Blarney Stone had long been a bye-word among the Irish. Why, it is difficult to conjecture, unless the glib 170 CORK TO BLARNEY. tongues of the natives of this locality were supposed to be not the ordinary gift of nature ; but it had not reached its full zenith of talismanic power until 1799, when Millikin wrote his well-known song of " The Groves of Blarney," not, as is sometimes asserted, to the same air as Moore adapted his " Last Eose of Summer," but to another old Irish air. A curious tradition attributes to it the power of endowing whoever kisses it with the sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible in the language of the Cork people, and which is generally termed ^^ Blarney P This is the true meaning of the word, and not, as some writers have supposed, a faculty of deviating from veracity with an unblushing countenance whenever it may be con- venient."^ It is asserted that the " real stone " which bore the inscription cormach mac carthy fortis mi fieri fecit, a.d. 1446. now illegible, was only to be seen at the north angle, a distance of about twenty feet. It was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting buttress at the top of the castle, several feet below the level of the wall, so that to perform the kissing feat it was necessary to hold on by the bars, and project the body over the wall. The candidate for Blarney honours will be glad to know that another "real stone," bearing the date 1703, and clasped by two iron bars, has been placed within the tower, where it is quite accessible. The song which has achieved for itself and the "Groves" so high a reputation was written as a burlesque upon some of those wordy ditties with which ignorant pedantry used to astonish the village circles. From the version published in Mr. Crofton Croker's " Popular Songs of Ireland," we quote a sample of the song : — '* The groves of Blarney, " 'Tis there's the daisy, They look so charming, And the sweet carnation, Down by the purling The blooming pink, Of sweet silent streams, And the rose so fair, Being bank'd with posies The daffodowndilly, That spontaneous grow there, Likewise the lily. Planted in order All flowers that scent By tb<» sweet rock close. The sweet fragrant air." ♦ J. S. Coyne. BLARNEY LAKE. 171 The version published in tlie " Reliques of Father Prout *' contains the allusion to the " Stone." ** There is a stone there, " A clever spouter That whoever kisses, He'll sure turn out, or Oh ! he never misses An out and outer. To grow eloquent. To be let alone ! *Tis he may clamber Don't hope to hinder him To a lady's chamber. Or to bewilder him. Or become a member Sure he's a pilgrim Of Parliament. From the Blarney Stone." The pleasure-grounds surrounding the castle, which were formerly adorned with statues, grottoes, alcoves, bridges^ and every description of rustic ornament, are still very beautiful, although since the time when ** The muses shed a tear, When the cruel auctioneer, With his hammer in his hand, to sweet Blarney came," * then: beauty has been gradually diminishing ; the fine old trees have been felled, and the statues of " The heathen gods, And Nicodemus, And nymphs so fair, All standing naked Bold Neptune, Plutarch, In the open air," f have vanished. The - gravel walks there For speculation And conversation " are, however, in good order. In 1825, Sir Walter Scott, Mr. Lockhart, and Miss Edgeworth, visited the castle. Blarney Lake is a sweet piece of water, about a quarter of a mile from the castle. A tradition remains that at certain seasons a herd of white cows rises from the bosom of the lake to graze among the rich pasture which clothes its banks. Another story is, that the Earl of Clancarty, who forfeited the castle at the Revolution, cast all his plate into a certain part ; that " three of the McCarthys inherit tlie secret of the place where they are deposited, any one * Father Prout. t Millikin's Groves of Blarney. 172 CORK TO YOUGHAL. of whom dying communicates it to another of the family, and thus perpetuates the secret, which is never to be revealed until a McCarthy be again Lord of Blarney." On the river Coman, within the pleasure-grounds, is a very fine cromlech, and a number of pillar-stones inscribed with ancient Ogham characters. St. Anne's Hill, a pleasant little watering-place, is about a mile west of Blarney. CORK TO YOUGHAL AND THE BLACKWATER. The tourist may visit the chief points on this line in one day, thus — An early train takes him from Cork to Youghal in an hour and a quarter. The steamer proceeds up the river to Cappoquin, occupying about an hour and a half on the passage. If he choose to go to Lismore, he should stop short at Camphire, from which a public car conveys him to the town in haK an hour. Thence he may drive to Cappoquin, and he will have the whole river trip on his return. Should he elect to visit Melleray Abbey, he should go on by steamer direct to Cappoquin. As the boat gene- rally makes two trips per day, he will be able to inspect Youghal either before or after his river journey, but in- quiry as to sailings should be made beforehand. YOUGHAL (Hotel: Devonshire Anns), 28 miles from Cork, is easilj reached by train. The rail from Cork to Middleton commands fine views ol the river Lee, but the remainder of the journey is rather uninteresting, ex^ cepting that portion through the small town and fine demesne of Castle- martyr, the seat of the Earl of Shannon. Youghal lies to the eastern extreniity of the county on the bay of the same name, at the mouth of the picturesque river Blackwater. Here a Franciscan abbey was founded in 1224 by Maurice Fitzgerald. Archdall relates the tradition, that it was the onginal intention of the founder to build a castle, and that the men en- gaged in the work requested money to drink the health of their employer, who desired his son to give it them. Instead of doing so, he loaded them with abuse, which so provoked Maurice, that, to punish the pride of his son, he had the structure converted into a monastery. The nave and aisl'^.s of the church are still used as a place of worship, the greater part having been lately restored from a state of niin. A monument to the first, usually styled the great Earl of Cork, is in the south transept ; he is represented in u recumbent position, his two wives kneeling, one on each side of him, and flgui'es of his nine children underneath. The church contains many ot^o' THE BLACK WATER. 173 interesting tombs, iucliiding those of the Boyles and Fitzgeralds. Yoiighal was the head-quarters of Oliver Cromwell whilst in the south of Ireland, and here he embarked for England after his campaign. During the rebel- lion of the Earl of Desmond, Sir Walter Raleigh sailed to Ireland as cap- tain of a few troops sent over to assist the Lord-Deputy. For his skill and bravery, he was rewarded with a grant of land in the counties Cork and Waterford, which, in 1602, he sold to Boyle, afterwards Earl of Cork, who had received him with much hospitality, and afforded him generous assist- ance on his return from Virginia. It was on this occasion that Sir Walter introduced to this country the potato root, which was first cultivated in this neighbourhood. Sir Walter Raleigh's house still stands in the town, near the church, very much in its primitive condition. It is a plain Eliza- bethan structure, and now called Myrtle Grove, from the fine specimens of that shrub which grow in the garden. Youghal is connected with the county Waterford by a long narrow wooden bridge, 1787 feet in length. THE BLACKWATER. The month of this river, one of the largest in Ireland, forms the harbonr of Yonghal, wliich, thongh a fine and well-sheltered bay, is rendered inaccessible to very large vessels by a bar. A ferry opposite the town crosses to Ardmore, four miles distant, a favourite w^atering-place, and remarkable for the ruins of an ancient abbey, and a round tower in almost perfect preservation. The trip up the river is made in a light steamer specially built for the navigation, and running during the season in con- nection with the railway. Starting from Youghal quay, it passes under the wooden bridge, where it enters the river proper, as distinguished from the bay of Youghal. Immediately the hills rise at either side to a considerable height, on one hand thickly clothed w^th firs, on the other green, and dotted with cottages and tilled patches. The first object of especial interest is an island about a mile up the river, from amidst the rich verdure of which rise two ruins in close contiguity. The square keep is the remnant of Temple IVIichael, a castle built by the Templars ; the ecclesiastical remains formed part of the abbey of Saint Molanfide, founded in 501. A statue of the founder is placed upon a pedestal in the cloister, but it is of compara- 174 THE BLACKWATER. lively modern erection. Tbe body of Eaymond le Gros, a comrade of Strongbow, is said to be buried in the abbey. Passing by the angle of the river in which the fine man- sion of Ballinatray is situated, a scene of great beauty un- folds itself. The river, flowing between a noble lawn on one bank and rich woods on the other, widens out into a lake, while the view forward reaches over miles of a cul- tivated slope, terminating m a lofty heather-covered peak. From this spot the river mnds through a succession of beauties. The ruins of old Strancally Castle are almost confounded with the rough, moss-grown rock, on which they stand directly over the river. The water here is said to be of im.mense depth, and accessible by a subterraneous passage from the castle, known as the Murdering hole, as here, it was said, some cruel Desmond, of days long gone by, used to dispose of the bodies of his victims. All the statements, however, must be received with no larger per centage of credulity than is usually accorded to the legends of castles long in ruins. New Strancally Castle stands a short distance from its predecessor. It is an immense mass of towers and cur* tains, and battlements and bartizans, according to the rule of modern Gothic. It is buried in most lovely woods, through which its architectural features are seen to very great advantage. Just beyond a smaller river, called the Bride, falls into the Blackwater. About that point a bend in the main stream reveals the Knock-me-le-down moun- tains, whose black and frowning outlines contrast with the fertile country around. Dromana Castle, the seat of Lord Stuart de Decie-s, a couple of miles farther on, is not in it- self striking, but is charmingly situated. It overlooks the river from an eminence of about 60 or 70 feet, and seems barely to peep through the magnificent woods which fold it round, and clothe the whole river side with beauty. Just beneath a sweet little tributary, called the Finisk, loses itself in the Blackwater. From the grounds of the mstJe, which are freely thrown open tc visitors, an artinti- THE BLACKWATER. 175 cally conceived opening in the trees carries tlie view up towards the mountains, or down over the broad surface of the river. A small islet in front, covered with willows and drooping ashes, forms a pretty foreground to the pic- ture of Dromana. This castle was the birth-place of that wonder of vitality, the Countess of Desmond, whose death was occasioned by a fall from a cherry tree at the age of a hundred and forty. Higher up on the left bank are the ancient castle of Tourin and the modern structure of the same name ; the latter the seat of Sir Eichard Musgrave, by whose father^ the late proprietor, the capabilities of the Blackwater as a navigable river were first tested. On again through a succession of interesting views and we come to the end of the steamer's journey, and, pro- bably, the loveliest portion of the whole river. Within a couple of miles of the town of Cappoquin, one of those sudden turns which are constantly acting like theatrical surprises reveals a scene as remarkable by its variety as by its beauty. Before the spectator, and stretching far away to the left, is a long hillside intersected with deep woody glens, and rich with plantations, which, far as the eye can carry, clothe its surface. Above the long level ridge rises Mount Melleray, distinguished by the convent of La Trappe, and towering over all the mountains, whose close proximity gives them an appearance of mass and grandeur to which their real dimensions would scarcely entitle them. To the right, and nestled at the base of the hni, Cappoquin has an imposing effect, which a closer inspec- tion will hardly sustain : it has, however, a snug little inn. Mount Melleray Abbey is about three miles' drive from Cappoquin. It is chiefly remarkable from the fact that it is inhabited by a community of monks, the severity of whose rule is almost unequalled in the Eoman Catholic Church. They live exclusively upon vegetable diet, use no stimulating drink, nor even tea, indulge in but five to «iix hours' sleep, labour incessantly, and maintain perpetual 176 THE BLACKWATER. silence. The last rule is relaxed in favour of a few mem- bers for essential purposes, such as teaching in the schools, transaction of necessary business, and reception of visitors, who are very numerous. The ground upon which the abbey is situated was a tract of unreclaimed mountain granted to the community by the late Sir Richard Keane, of Cappoquin. It has been brought into cultivation by the labour of their hands, while all around it may still be seen the primeval heath. The community is noAv composed chiefly of natives of Ireland, but was originally formed by some French Cistercian monks driven from France by the Revolution of 1830. From Cappoquin to Lismore is rather less than four miles. Unfortunately there is neither swivel nor portcullis in the fine five-arch bridge which spans the river imme- diately above Cappoquin, otherwise the steamer might perform the further portion of the journey. The drive, however, is very agreeable at either side of the river, by the northern bank especially. Lismore is a considerable town, and better built than most Irish towns of the same size. It has a cathedral church of considerable age. Its chief attraction is the castle of the Duke of Devonshire, remarkable by its size, the beauty of its architecture, its romantic situation, and the fact that it occupies the site of the ancient University of Lismore. Of the University building not a vestige remains, and its relics are few ; though Irish historical records insist that it was once of European importance, and in its palmy days four thousand students, amongst whom is counted no less a personage than Alfred the Great, are said to have received instruction there. The Booh of Lhmore and the crozier of the bishops are the principal relics, the latter is exhibited along with other curiosities. The present building is a stately pile standing upon an eminence that springs almost sheer out of the water, but whose abruptness is veiled by the trees that seem to grow from the river itself. Looking. from the bridge near its THE BLACKWATER. 177 foot, the castle presents a specimen of tlie best type of feudal Gothic. Its two facades are happy examples of that harmonious irregularity which forms the charm of the style. The main building is of great antiquity, but much of it has been restored, and large additions have been made under the superintendence of Sir Joseph Paxton. At the eastern angle of the river face, the tower of King James rises, and to the rear, towards the town, that which is called King John's. The former derives its name from having been the resting-place of James the Second during the war of the Eevolution ; the latter, as the scene of the first British Parliament held in Ireland under the presi- ./lency of King John. The river front is flanked at the western angle by a huge tower already overtopping the whole building, thougli it is far from completion, the works having been stopped since the death of the late duke. It is called the Carlisle tower, after the late Lord- Lieutenant of Ireland, by whom the foundation-stone was laid. It was but a part of the extensive additions contem- plated by the late Duke of Devonshire, which, had tliev been completed, would have entitled Lismore Castle ta rank amongst the very first residences in Great Britain. Admission is free to visitors to inspect the interior. The chief objects of interest are the fine court-yards, the ball- room, not unlike the great hall of Hampton Court, but inferior in size, and the drawing-room. From the windows of the last there are views of ahnost incomparable loveli- ness. For those who prefer expanse to mere beauty the turret of King Jamei^'s Tower ofl'ers an immense range of view. The beauties of the Blackwater by no means terminate at Lismore, and if the tourist have leisure he will be rewarded by a trip to Fermoy ; the road and the railway follow its banks all the way. From Fermoy he can proceed by rail to Mallow, and thence either return to Cork or proceed to Killarney, page 178. The river drive between these latter points has been neglected since the establishment of N 178 FERMOY. railway communication, but that, too, is a very agreeable trip, and, amongst other points of interest, embraces the ruins of Kilcoleman Castle, the residence of the poet Spenser, which was burned by the insurgents during the rebellion of Tyrone in 1597. FERMOY Hotel.— Q,ueen*s Arms. Mail cars to Mallow and to Mitchellstown. is an important military station, with extensive bar- racks for both infantry and cavalry. The town, which consists of some good streets, owes much of its prosperity to the enterprise of the late Mr. Anderson, the mail coach and barrack contractor. Besides dissenting meeting houses, there is a handsome Catholic cathedi-al and a good Epis- copal church. There is also the court house, the college, and other less important buildings. The situation of the town, on the river Blackwater, here crossed by a fine stone cut bridge, is very pleasing, and the numerous villas in the vicinity add to its attractiveness. Its population amounts to 7000. 179 KILLARNEY. There are three ways of visiting Killarney — 1st, Route direct from DulDlin by rail, see p. 108. 2d, „ from Cork by rail to Bandon and Dunmanway, thence by coach via GlengarifF, see p. 205. 3d, „ from Cork by railway to Macroom, thence by coach via Inchigeelagh and Glengariff, see p. 209. For those to whom scenery is a consideration the routes by Glengariff are recommended, particularly that via Macroom. Hotels. — Railway — Royal Victoria — Lake — Palace — and Innisfallen. — Tariffs of charges may be had on application, and the landlords will be glad to assist in making up parties for visiting the Lakes. SKELETON EXCURSION. KILLA.RNEY to Gap of Dunloe, and the Three Lakes. Killarney town. Ruins of Aghadoe Aghadoe Church - - - Aghadoe House - - . Killalee Church, in rains Beaufort House - - - Dunloe Castle . - - Enter Gap of Dunloe Co-Saun Lough . . - Cushvalley Lough - Augur Haugh and Pike Rock Miles. 6J 7i Si 9 lOi 11 Cars stop here. Continue on foot or pony. Black Lough - - - - 11 J Gap Cottage - - - - 12" Derrycunihy Waterfall - - 13 View of the Black Valley. Lord Brandon's Cottage - 15 Proceed thence hy toat. M Enter Upper Lake - - . McCarthy's Island. Eagle Island. Arbutus Island. Newfoundland Bay. Enter Long Range Man-of-war Rock. Eagle's Nest. Enter Middle Lake by Old Weir Bridge - - - Dinish Island. Brickeen Island. Enter Lower Lake by Brickeen Bridge - - _ _ Glena Bay and Wood - Innisfallen - - - - Ruined Abbey. Ross Island - - - . Castle in ruins. Land at Muckross - - - Muckross Abbey - - - Flesk Castle (to right) - KiUam-ey - - . . iles 15^ 17 19 IPi 20 25 180 MUCKROSS, OR CLOGHEREEX. Killarney is certainly not the cleanest town in the world and it has the misfortune to be filled with beggars, touters, guides, and other annoyances. It consists of one principal street, with numerous offshoots. The population numbers about 5000, including the beggars, etc., but not the paupers in the workhouse, who number about 400. In position, it is about one mile and a half from the north-east margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. In the principal street are situated some of the hotels, the parish church, a mean edifice, the market, and a reading-room, open to strangers. A place of worship for Methodists is in the town ; also a nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls are educated. Lord Kenmare, besides providing clothing for thirty of the girls, annually contributes a sum of £100 for the maintenance of tlie school. A dispensary, a fever-hospital, and alms-house, swell the number of the town charities. The Roman Catholic cathedral to the north of the town is a magnificent building, designed by Pugin, celebrated for his imitations of mediaeval art, and completed but recently. The hotels are all good and well regulated, and can supply cars, ponies, and boats. *' In an eTening ramble through the town," observes Mr. Croker, " the first thing that will strike a stranger is the number of idle people lounging about the streets, or standing with their backs against the door-posts of the houses." This remark is still true to a great extent, and perhaps is some- what due to an indiscriminate benevolence on the part of unaophisticated tourists. CLOGHEREEN {Hotels: The Muckross (Ross's) ; O'Sullivan's). This village, the property of Captain H. A. Herbert, M.P. for Kerry, and one of the largest proprietors in the south of Ireland, is two miles south of Killarney, within a few minutes' walk of the ruined abbey, whose name it now bears, and two miles north of the celebrated cascade '>f Tore. Its position is half a mile from the south-east comer of the Lower Lake. The principal buildings in the village are two hotels, the post office, and a school-house. Many visitors prefer this village to the town of Killarney. 18J KILLARNE/ TO GAP OF DUNLOE, LAKES, ETC. Leaving tlie streets of Killarnej, we proceed in a norths* western direction, passing the spacious Union Workhouse and palace-like County Lunatic Asylum on our right, and the beautiful Eoman Catholic cathedral on our left We get now and then a peep of the larger of the lakes, and two and a quarter miles from the town pass on our right the venerable ruins of Aghadoe, perched on a piece of rising ground, and overlooking that immense valley in whose bosom rests the majestic Lough Leane. This is one of the most delightfully situated assemblages of ruins in the kingdom. The Castle is but a fragment of a tower about 30 feet in height. Of its foundation or occupation no records are extant, but the titles given by tradition, " the Bishop's chair," and " the pulpit," would seem to indicate that it had been originally the residence of the bishop of the diocese. The Church, writes Windele, " is a low oblong building, consisting of two distinct chapels, of unequal antiquity, lying east and west of each other ; that to the east is in the pointed style, date 1158, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity; the other, or western chapel, is of an earlier period, between the sixth and tweKth centuries, in the Romanesque style, and was under the patronage of St. Finian. These are separated by a solid wall, through which had once been a communication, but closed up long before the destruction of the building. The whole of the church is about eighty feet in length, by twenty in breadth." The Round Tower is in no better condition than the castle. Its present height is about fifteen feet. "Its masonry is greatly superior to that of the church. The stones are large, regular, and well dressed. The greater part of the facing stone of the north side has been unfortn- nately taken away for the erection of tombs in the adjacent 182 KILLARNEY TO GAP OF DUNLOE. burying-grpund. Within and without, the spoliator haa been effectually at work, aided by those worst pests, the gold-seekers — fellows, whose unhallowed dreams are most fatal to our antiquities." Continuing the drive for another mile, we take a sharp turn to the left, before which, how- ever, we pass Aghadoe House, the pleasant mansion of the Dowager Lady Headley. After a quarter of a mile's drive in a south-eastern direction, we take another sharp turn to the right, and for two miles and a half continue due west. To our left, on the lake side, is Lake View House, the residence of James O'Connell, Esq., brother to the late agitator. On the same side appears Killalee House, and on the right the ruins of the church of the same name. Nearly six and a haK miles from Killamey we have on our left the beautiful demesne of Beaufort House, having first crossed the river Laune, which conveys the surplus water from the Upper Lake. Dunloe Castle, on the left, the seat of Daniel Mahony, Esq., was originally one of the residences of the powerful O'Sullivan Mor. The Gave of Dunloe, situated in a field close by the high road, and about two miles' distance from the entrance to the Gap, will tempt the antiquarian tourist. It was dis- covered in 1838 by some labourers who were making a ditch, when they broke into a hollow under the 'earth. " The Cave of Dunloe must be regarded as an ancient Irish library, lately disinterred, and restored to light. The books are the large impost stones which form the roof. Their angles contain the writing. A library of such literature was never heard of in England before, and scarcely in Ireland ; and yet it is of the highest antiquity.""^ We may here just mention the Ogham character, as that supposed to have been used by the Druids before the in- trocluction of Christianity into Ireland. It consists of six- teen letters represented by four arrangements of strokes, either upon a line, or, as is more generally the case, upon ♦ Hall's Hibemia Illustrata, THE GAP OF DUNLOE. 183 the sharp edge of a stone. We copy the alphabet in this character as given by a celebrated Irish scholar, O'Halloran, ^ , II 111 nil iiiiiMnmiii ////// III 111 iiii iiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiii ////// hi/ 8 n d t e a o u e i m g r The Ogham alphabet now contains twenty-five charac- ters, representing letters or combinations of letters. The Beth'Lm's-JVom, or Irish alphabet, contains but eighteen letters, fashioned differently from the Eoman characters, and each symbolically representing a tree or plant. Thns the letter D, Biur, is the name for the oak ; 0, Oun, is the broom ; U, Ur, is the heath, and I, IdoUio, is the yew tree. The cottage said to have been inhabited by the celebrated beauty Kate Kearney stands invitingly at the entrance to the Gap. It is now inhabited by the reputed grand- daughter of the heroine, who conveniently bears the sams name, although not the same charms, as her prototype. Goats' milk, seasoned with a little potheen, will in all like- lihood be offered here, and a gratuity received in return, THE GAP OF DUNLOE is one of those notable places about which there exists so much diversity of opinion. It is a wild and narrow mountain pass, between the range of hills known as Macgillicuddy's Eeeks, and the Purple Mountain, which is a shoulder of the Tomies. The entire length of the defile is about four miles. The principal feature of the pass is the height of the rocks which bound it, compared with the narrow track of road, and the insig- nificant streamlet which courses through it. " On either hand," writes Sterling Coyne, " the craggy cliffs, composed of huge masses of projecting rocks, suspend fearfully over the narrow pathway, and at every step threaten with destruction the adventurous explorer of this desolate scene. In the interstices of these immense fragments a few shruba and trees shoot out in fantastic shapes, which, with the dark ivy and luxuriant heather, contribute to the pictn- 184 THE GAP OF DUNLOE. resque effect of the landscape. A small but rapid stream called the Loe traverses the whole length of the glen, ex- panding itseK at different points into five small lakes, each having its proper name, but which are known in the aggregate as the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes. The road, which is a mere pony track, constructed on the frequent brink of precipices, follows the course of the stream, and in two places crosses it by means of bridges. One of these stands at the head of a beautiful rapid, where the water rushes in whitening foam over the rocky bed of the tor- rent. The part of the glen which attracts most admiration is that where the valley becomes so contracted as scarcely to leave room between the precipitous sides for the scanty pathway and its accompanying strand. The peasantry have given to this romantic pass the name of ' the Pike.' " Mr. Inglis writes in a different strain. " The Gap of Dun- loe," says he, " did not seem to me worthy of its reputa- tion. It is merely a deep valley, but the rocks which flank the valley are neither lofty nor very remarkable in their form ; and although, therefore, the Gap presents many features of the picturesque, its approaches to sublimity are very distant. I was more struck by the view after passing the Gap, up what is called the Dark Valley, a wide and desolate hollow, surmounted by the finest peaks of this mountain range." The road for a little way up the Gap keeps to the right of the stream, passing the lowest of the tarns, sometimes called Cosaun Lough, which is about nine miles from Killamey. Quarter of a mile further on, it crosses the stream below the second, or Black Lough^ and keeps to the left of Cushvally Lough, and Auger Lough. The Pike Eock is situated at the upper end of the latter, being about eleven miles from our starting point. Cars are rarely taken beyond this point, from whence the tourist may either walk or ride the four miles to Lord Brandon's cottage, where he embarks. It would * Here St. Patrick is said to have banished the last Irish snake. THE BLACK VALLEY. 186 be well even to send back the car at the first lake, as the road is very trying for the horse. Touters fre- quent this valley with cannon, which they discharge in order to awake the magnificent echo, which passes from hill to hill. Emerging from the Gap at its upper end, we come within sight of THE BLACK YALLEY, Coom-a-Dhuv,^ which stretches away to our right, and seems lost in its own profundity. The darkness of the valley is not caused by any excess of vegetation, what exists being, on the contrary, very stunted, and sparingly scattered. The effect is produced by the height of the hiUs surrounding the vale, and the immense quantity of dissolved peaty matter in the water. We are inclined to concur with Mr. Inglis, when he describes this vale as more striking than that which we have just left, for few could look into its wild recess without a feeling of awe akin to horror. Mr. Windele thus describes the valley : — " On our right lies the deep, broad, desolate glen of Coom Dhuv, an amphitheatre buried at the base, and hemmed in by vast masses of mountain, whose rugged sides are marked by the course of descending streams. At the western extremity of the valley gloomily reposes, amid silence and shadows, one of the lakes, or rather circular basins of dark still water, Loch-an-bric-dearg , ' the lake of the char or red trout.' Other lesser lakes dot the surface of the moor, and uniting, form at the side opposite the ter- mination of the Gap a waterfall of considerable height, enjoying the advantage, not common to other falls in Ire- land, of being plentifully supplied with water at every season of the year." When we catch the first view of the valley on a hot, hazy day, the effect is truly magical, re- * Unfortunately there seems to be no rule among writers for the spell- ing of Irish words. Cuw^meenduff, Commenduff, Com-a-Dhuv, Coom-Duv, and Coom-DhuvTiy are among the different versions given of the Irish name of the Dark Valley. We prefer Coom-a-Dhuv, because it comes nearest the pro- nunciation of the natives. 186 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. minding ns of some of the dioramic representations of the blasted heath in Macbeth. The whole valley is a black scarcely defined prison, and the water throws back the light which it receives by reflection from the clouds, giving the idea of being lighted from below. " Had there been at the bottom," writes Kohl, " among the rugged masses of black rock, some smoke and flame instead of water, we might have imagined we were looking into the entrance to the infernal regions." A nigged footpath, to the left, leads to Lord Brandon's cottage. THE LAKES OF KILLAENEY. From the over-sti-ained laudation, and the multitude of paintings and engravings that have been produced of these justly celebrated lakes, the tourist is apt to form too high an estimate of their beauty. There can be no doubt, how- ever, that the rocks that bound the shores of Muckross and the Lower Lake, with their harmonious tints and luxuriant decoration of foliage, stand unrivalled, both in form and colouring ; and the character of the mountains is as grand and varied as the lakes in which they reflect their rugged summits. Of less extent and without so much of that sublimity that distinguishes the lochs of Scotland, the Lakes of Killarney possess some remarkable features, among which may be noted the dense woods that surround them, the elegant and imposing contours of the mountains, the numerous islands and luxuriant vegetation, especially of the arbutus, whose fresh green tints contrast so well with the grey rocks among which it grows. Derrycunihy Waterfall occurs on a stream which, near Gal way bridge, flows into the upper lake. The name is derived from a remarkable personage who leapt over the stream, and left his footmarks printed in a stone. These marked stones are common all over Ireland, and have had various origins ascribed to them. Spencer con- cluded that they were a sort of sign-manual of the chiefs, 188 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. who, standing on the stone, " received an oath to preserve all the ancient customs of the country inviolable." The vale of Coom-a-dhuv is but the upper end of a large val- ley, stretching from under the lofty Carrantuohill (3414 feet), the loftiest mountain in Ireland, in a western direc- tion, until, under Mangerton (2756)andCromaglan (1226), it widens out into the Upper Lake. Lord Brando7i^s Cottage is situated close to the Upper Lake. From this the tourist may conveniently ascend the Purple Mountain, from which is obtained a most expan- sive view, extending over the Upper and Middle Lakes, and surrounding mountains, including the Keeks and Glengariff, with the Black Valley, Lough Guitaua, Dingle Bay and mountains, the mouth of the Shannon, and Ken- mare and Bantry Bays, besides a beautiful expanse of open sea. The descent may be made into the Gap of Dunloe. THE UPPER LAKE, the length of which is only two and a half miles, and breadth three quarters, covers an area of 430 acres, being little more than a twelfth of that of the Lowxr Lake. It contains twelve islands, occupying in all an area of about six acres, none of them being much above an acre in extent, and several not even a rood. McCarthy's Island is one of the first we encounter on entering the lake. It is difl&cult to trace the origin of the name of this, or indeed any other spot in the vicinage of the lakes with certainty, so active have been the imagina- tions of guides and boatmen in coining origins and inci- dents to suit the wants of tourists. It is a historical fact that the coimty Kerry at one period was chiefly owned by the two powerful chiefs, O'Sullivan and McCarthy, though it is long since the power of both has dwindled into insig- nificance. It is believed that one of the last McCarthys either dwelt or took refuge on the island. Arbutus Island is one of the largest on the lake, being twenty-five perches by eleven. In area it is inferior to another called Eagle Island, being one acre and twenty-six THE UPPER LAKE. 189 perches, while the latter is one acre and thirty perches. There can be no doubt of the origin of this island's title, seeing that it is completely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. The islands in the lakes of Cumberland are either grassy holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle on Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane, mixed with every other variety of English forest trees. The islands on the Killamey lakes have a totally different aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the Arbutus {Arhitus unedo). Even in winter the leaves are of a rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations of the branches, that the waxen flesh-like flowers, which hang in graceful racemes, or the rich crimson strawberry- like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure. The arbutus is never lofty enough to entitle it to the rank of a tree ; and its bare trunk and unclothed branches require the covering of the thicket of unrestricted vegetation. All islands in the lakes have a share of this " Myrtle of Kil- lamey," and the road-sides in the vicinity are plentifully adorned with it. Though small in proportion, the Upper Lake is generally admitted to be the finest of the three, not as a simple sheet of water, in which the lower far surpasses it, but on account of the wild rocky shores which hem it in on every side. Although we cannot agree wdth Mr. Coyne that this lake possesses " every variety of landscape that can de- light the eye or gratify the imagiuation," still in the main we are inclined to agree with him in his account of the spot. " The wild grandeur," he writes, " of the Upper Lake strikes the observer on first beholding it with feel- ings of awe and admiration. Perfectly distinct in the character of its romantic scenery from that of the Tore and Lower Lake, it combines many of the softer beauties of wood and water, with all the stern reality of mountain scenery — possessing in a surpassing degree every variety 190 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. of landscape that can delight the eye or gratify the imagi- nation. Embosomed amidst majestic mountains whose fantastical summits seem to pierce the sky, the lake appears to be completely landlocked. On the south lie the Derry- cunihy mountain ranges, and on the left the lofty Reeks ' Lift to the clouds their craggy heads on high, Clowned with tiaras fashioned in the sky, In vesture clad of soft ethereal hue, The purple mountains rise to distant view, With Dunloe's Gap.' " Weld writes of this lake — " The Upper Lake displays much greater variety than the others, but that variety arises from different combinations of the same wild and uncultivated features. In picturesque scenery, indeed, it far surpasses all the other lakes." He very justly adds, that " It is only by a patient examination of its shores, and particularly of the deep inlets along it, that its full beauties can be discovered." Towards the eastern end the lake becomes attenuated into a narrow strip of water rather more than half a mile long, called Newfoundland Bay, and to the north of it passes the Long Range, a river little more than two miles in length, connecting the Upper with the Middle Lake. Every little rock or islet has its peculiar name or legend, which the boatmen are eager to recite for the edification of the tourist. On entering the Long Range, we pass Col- man's Eye, the Man-of-War — a mass of rock resembling, though remotely, the hulk of a vessel- — and the Four Friends, a series of little isles. The Eagle's Nest rears its pyramidal head about 700 feet above the river ; it is 1100 feet above the sea. It is a rugged, precipitous mass of rock, in whose interstices the lordly eagle builds its eyry. The base is tolerably covered with trees, shrubs, and underwood, but towards the upper part it is bare, excepting where a few stunted trees or heath, and other lowly sub-alpine plants, find nourishment amonp^ the crevices. THE UPPER LAKE. 191 The young birds are carried oflf every year between tbe 15th of June and the 1st of July, when they are old enough to be brought up by the hand. The rocks on which the nests are built are usually so steep and dangerous, that they can only be reached by ropes from above. The echo from this and the surrounding rocks is re- markable, and when judiciously awakened, we hear the call repeated nearly a dozen times, and answered from mountain to mountain, sometimes loud and without in- terval, and then fainter and fainter, and after a sudden pause again arising as if from some distant glen, then in- sensibly dying away. Eagle's Nest Echo. — Mr. Croker's. 1. Original Air. 2. Echo. 3. Echo fainter. 4. Imperfect, 5. Bothered. 7. Repeat irrfper- feet. Passing objects of minor interest, we at length gain the fairy scene known as the " Meeting of Waters," where the Long Kange, calling, as it were, at the corner of the Middle Lake, skirts round the east of Dinish Island, which ia bounded west by the Middle, and north by the Lower Lake. 192 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. Old Weir Bridge is an antiquated structure, consisting of two arches, through which the water rushes with un- controllable force. The boatmen, who are generally very skilful rowers, do nothing but guide the boat, and it dashes through, under one of the arches, into MUCKEOSS, TOEC, OE MIDDLE LAKE. This lake contains an area of 680 acres. The principal islands are Dinish and Brickeen, which separate it from the Lower and larger lake. There are three passages between these two lakes, one round the eastern side of Brickeen, another between Brickeen and Dinish Islands, and a third by the Long Eange to the west side of the latter. Brickeen Island contains about nineteen acres, and is well wooded. It seems a continuation of the peniusula of Muckross, from which a narrow stream separates it. Dinish Island, which is also well wooded, contains about thirty -four acres. On it is built a neat cottage, where, by previous arrangement with the hotel-keeper, dinner may be in waiting for the tourist. The visitor who does not purpose seeing " Killamey in one day," will leave the cascade on Tore Mountain for another excursion, and pass through between the two islands into the Lower Lake. Of the beauty of Tore Lake much has been written, but that it is inferior to the smaller, or Upper, and superior to the Lower or larger lake, is generally conceded. The ad- mired author of " the Irish Sketch-book," * in answer to the question, "What is to be said about Tore Lake ?" re- plies, " When there we agreed that it was more beautiful than the large lake, of which it is not one-fourth the size ; then, when we came back, we said, * No, the large lake is the roost beautiful ;' and so, at every point we stopped at, we determined that that particular spot was the prettiest ill the whole lake. The fact is, and I don't care to oun * Thacfeeray. THE LOWER LAKE. iy3 it, they are too handsome. As for a man coming from Ms desk in London or Dublin, and seeing ' the whole lakes in a day,' he is an ass for his pains. A child doing a sum in addition might as well read the whole multiplication table, and fancy he had it by heart." LOUGH LEANE, or THE LOWER LAKE, is now entered by passing under Brick een Bridge. Its area is given at about 5000 acres, its greatest length being five, and breadth three mUes. The islands upon this lake are up- wards of thirty in number, but very few of them exceed an area of one acre, while the majority come far short of that size. The largest islands are Rabbit Island, a little above twelve acres, and Innisfallen, with an area of rather more than twenty-one acres. The names of the islands are derived either from some fancied resemblance to animate or inanimate objects, or from being the resort of different animals. Thus w^e have Lamb Island, Elephant Island, Gun Rocks, O'Donoghue's Horse, Crow Island, Heron Island, Gannet Rocks, Otter Island, and Stag Island. The chief beauty of the Lower Lake consists in its wide placid sur- face, and the mountains which form its barriers on the south and west. To the north-east the ground is level and uninteresting, save for the planting on the demesnes of Kenmare and Muckross, which, while they lend a beauty of their own, want the wild grandeur of the craggy moun- tains which surround the Upper Lake. Innumerable nooks of surpassing beauty, however, do occur in the frequent bays and inlets which interrupt its margin, and even the bare rocky islets contrast amazingly with the verdure of the distant shores, the richly-clothed islands of InnisfaUen and Ross, and the mirror-like surface of the lake whose bosom they disturb. This lake, though it cannot boast the magic halo thrown around Loch Katrine by the writings of Sir Walter Scott, is not without its legendary interest. The legend of the great O'Donoghue, the tales of the M'Carthys, and a world of other matter, in the hands of another border 194 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. minstrel, would supply materials for poetry such as few countries can boast. One legend may be worth recording here as a specimen which can be recommended to the makers of romantic ballads. It concerns the O'Donoghue of the Lakes, whose castle on Eoss Island lies in ruins, but the fame of whose deeds still lives in the memories of the people. Once eveiy seven years, on a fine morning, before the first rays of the sun have begun to disperse the mists from the bosom of the lake, the O'Donoghue comes riding over it on a beautiful snow-white horse, intent upon household affairs, fairies hovering before him, and strewing his path with flowers. As he approaches his ancient residence everything returns to its former state of magnificence ; his castle, his library, his prison, and his pigeon house, are reproduced as in olden time. Those who have courage to follow him over the lake may cross even the deepest parts dry-footed, and ride with him into the opposite mountains, where his treasures lie concealed; and the daring visitor will receive a liberal gift in return for his company ; but before the sun has risen, the O'Donoghue recrosses the water, and vanishes amidst the ruins of his castle. The character of this now spectral chief is said to have been just and honourable, clearly distinguishing him from another of the same name, who bore the distinctive appel- lation of " O'Donoghue of the Glens." The latter was " bloody and tyramious." GLEN A BAY is the part of the Lower Lake first entered, and the quiet beauty which surrounds it, coupled with the sheet of water beyond, which seems to melt into the hori- zon, give a favourable impression of the lake. A picturesque little cottage, known as Lady Kenmare's, stands on the shore. The range of hUls, which for fiilly two miles bounds the south-west side of the lake, takes the name of Glena ; it is clothed with wood, and the haimt of the red deer, now scarce, even in Scotland, and all but extinct in England.* Stag-hunts used to be of frequent occurrence among the lakes, and many a good fat buck has been slain and eaten by the Irish chiefs ; now, however, it is customary * The red deer is occasionally, thongh rarely, seen in Martindale on the west side of Ulles water o'sullivan's cascade. 196 to capture tlie animal in the water, and afterwards allow it to escape. From Mr. Weld we extract a few notes rela- tive to this sport. On the day preceding the hunt, those preparations are made which afe thought best calculated to ensure a happy issue. An experienced person is sent up the mountain to search for the herd, and watch its motions in patient silence till night comes on. The deer which remains aloof from the herd is selected for the next day's sport. The deer, upon being roused, gene- rally endeavours to gain the summit of the mountain, that he may the more readily make his escape across the open heath to some distant retreat. To prevent this, numbers of people are stationed at intervals along the heights, who by loud shouting terrify the animal, and drive him towards the lake. I was once gratified by seeing a deer run for nearly a mile along the shore, with the hounds pursuing him in full cry. On finding himself closely pressed, he leaped boldly from a rock into the lake, and swam towards one of the islands ; but, terrified by the approach of the boats, he returned, and once more sought for safety on the main shore. Soon afterwards, in a desperate efibrt to leap across a chasm between two rocks, his strength failed him, and he fell exhausted to the bottom. It was most interesting to behold the numerous spectators who hastened to the spot. Ladies, gentlemen, pea- sants, hunters, combined in various groups around the noble victim as he lay extended in the depth of the forest. The stag, as is usual on such oc- casions, was preserved from death. The rare fern Trichomanes speciosum is found in the wood. Pursuing our course on the lake, we pass one or two little islets and rocks on our way to " Sweet Innisfallen," but if time permits, it would be well to keep the course of the shore to O'SULLIYAN'S CASCADE. Landing in a Httle bay at the foot of the Tomies, and following a rugged pathway through the thick forest, we hear from time to time the dashing of the water down its precipitous channel, until we at last reach the waterfall. **The cascade," writes Wright, " consists of three distinct falls ; the uppermost, passiQg over a ridge of rock, falls about twenty feet per- pendicularly into a natural basin beneath, then making its way between two hanging rocks, the torrent hastens down a second precipice, into a similar receptacle, from which Hecond depository, concealed from the view, it rolls orei 196 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY. into the lowest chamber of the fall. Beneath a projecting rock, overhanging the lowest basin, is a grotto, with a seat rudely cut in the rock. From this little grotto the view of the cascade is peculiarly beautiful and interesting. It appears a continued flight of three unequally elevated foamy stages. The recess is encompassed by rocks, and overshadowed by an arch of foliage, so thick as to interrupt the admission of light." INNISF ALLEN ISLAND, about half way between the east and west shores of the lake, is interesting on account of the historical associations connected with it, the charm thrown around it by the poetry of Moore, and more es- pecially for its own exceeding beauty. Of all islands it is perhaps the most delightful. The island appears from the lake or the adjoining shore to be densely covered with magnificent timber and gigantic evergreens, but upon landing, the interior of the island will be found to afford a variety of scenery well worthy of a visit — ^beautiful glades and lawns, embellished by thickets of flowering shrubs and evergreens, amongst which the arbutus and hollies are conspicuous for their size and beauty. Many of the timber trees are oaks, but the greater number are magnificent old ash trees of remarkable magni- tude and luxuriance of growth. The island is about twenty-one acres in extent, and commands the most varied and lovely views of the Lower Lake, its shores, and circumjacent mountain scenery. The abbey, whose ruins are scattered about the island, is believed to have been founded in 600 by St. Finian, to whom the cathedral of Aghadoe was dedicated. In this abbey the celebrated " Annals of Innisfallen " were composed. The work contains scraps from the Old Testament, a compendious, though not by any means valuable universal history, down to the period of St. Patrick, with a more perfect continuation of Irish history to the beginning of the fourteenth century. The original copy, written from 500 to 600 years ago, is now preserved in the Bodleian Library. The publication of this valuable work has been attempted at various times, but a complete translation has not yet issued f^om the press. The annals of Innisfallen are considered of value, more particularly in the history of Munster ; but the general reader would peruse without interest a diy chronological record of crimes, wars, and rebellluni i ROSS ISLAND. 197 lists of abbots, princes, and clergy ; and a special acconnt of the petty di»> sensions and generally violent deaths of the ancient kings of Kerry. The annals record that, in 1180, the abbey of Innisfallen, which had afc that time all the gold and silver, and richest goods of the whole country deposited in it, as the place of greatest security, was plundered by !Mildwin, son of Daniel O'Donoghoe, as was also the church of Ardfert, and many persons were slain in the very cemetery by the McCarthys. We take leaT« of the island with Moore's lines : — ** Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, May calm and sunshine long be thine. How fair thou art, let others tell, While but to feel how fair be mine. *' Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell In memory's dream that sunny smile, Which o'er thee on that evening fell, When first I saw thy fairy isle." EOSS ISLAND, situated on the eastern shore of the lake, is not properly an island, but a peninsula, though at high water it is difficult to reach it from the shore without having recourse to the bridge. It is well planted and in- tersected with beautiful walks. On the southern point we come upon a copper mine opened in 1804 by Colonel Hall, father of the talented S. C. Hall. The position was very unfavourable, being close to the margin of the lake ; but notwithstanding this, the labour proceeded and was re- warded for a time by an abundance of rich ore. Crofton Croker asserts that " during the four years that Ross mine was worked, nearly <£80,000 worth of ore was disposed of at Swansea, some cargoes producing .£40 per ton." " But this very richness," he adds, "was the ultimate cause of its de- struction, as several small veins of pure oxide of copper split off from the main lode, and ran towards the surface. The ore of these veins was much more valuable than the other, consequently the miners (who were paid by the quality as well as quantity) pursued the smaller veins so near the axtp- face, that the water broke through into the mine in such an overwhelming degree, that an engine of thirty horse-power could make no sensible im- pression on the inundation." There can be no doubt that these mines had been worked at an early period, whether by the Danes or not, it is difficult to say. Colonel HaU's miners found sevei&l 198 THE LAKES OF KILLAHNEY: rude stone hammers of a very early make, besides other unequivocal proofs of pre-occupation of the mines. Hoss Castle is a conspicuous object from some positions on the lake, but is generally visited from land. From the fiunmiit is obtained a most delightful view. Admission may be obtained by applying at the cottage close by ; a small gratuity is expected. The castle was built by one of the O'Donoghues. In 1652 it held out against the English, and was the last to surrender in Munster. On the 26th July, Lord Muskerry had been defeated in the county Cork, and many of his followers slain, among whom was a Kerry chieftain, Macgillicuddy, who held a commis- sion as colonel. Eetreating to Eoss Castle, he held out against the repeated attacks of General Ludlow, and not until " ships of war " were seen upon the lake did the garrison give in. An old prophecy had declared Ross im- pregnable till ships should surround it; and the L?ish soldiers, looking upon the prophecy as accomplished, would not strike a blow. Ludlow in his memoirs thus narrates the incident: — " When we had received our boats, each of which was capable of con- taining 120 men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about the water, in order to find out the most convenient place for landing upon the enemy ; which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely submission, to prevent the danger that threatened them." After the surrender 5000 of the Munster men laid down their arms. Lord Broghill, who accompanied Ludlow, had granted to him "£1000 yearly out of the estates of Lord Muskerry." The castle is now in ruins, but occupies a situation which, added to its ivy-clad walls, gives it an interesting and romantic character. If Muckross be the evening destination of the tourist, or if he desires in the same day to visit the abbey, he would do well to pull to the south-west corner of the lake, and there land. The boatmen will in all pro* bability object to the length of this journey, being in all about thirteen miles, besides the distance they have had to row the empty boat to meet the tourist THE ABBEY OF MUCKROSS. 199 at Lord Brandon's cottage ; but the sail is not more than he has a right to expect. As Muckross will be more properly visited in the walking excursion which we have planned, we will leave it at present, and merely observe that the walk between the landing and Killarney is about three miles and a half. The entire day's excursion is nearly thirty-two miles ; for the first eleven we can drive, then walk or ride four, sail about thirteen, and walk three and a half. KILLARNEY TO MUCKROSS ABBEY, TORC, ETC. THE ABBEY OF MUCKROSS is a picturesque arid beautiful ruin, situated on the demesne of Mr. Herbert, M.P. By a neat lodge gate the visitor is freely admitted into the grounds of Muckross, and passing do^\Ti a walk in the direction of the lake, he suddenly observes to his right, on a little knoll surrounded by trees, among which the yew is conspicuous, the ruins of the far-famed abbey. It was founded in 1440, and repaired in 1602. The ruia consists of an abbey and church. The cloisters belonging to the former are in the form of a sombre piazza surround- ing a dark court-yard, rendered still more gloomy by the presence in its centre of a magnificent yew tree. The dif- ferent ofi&ces connected with the abbey are still in a state of tolerable preservation. The large fire-place of the kitchen was taken possession of by a hermit of the name of John Drake about a hundred years ago. He lived here for eleven years, and from his solemn but cheerful aspect, bis seclusion and piety excited the interest of the people. In the church are many tombs, both old and new, bear- ing such illustrious names as O'Sullivan, McCarthy, and O'Donoghue Mor, the latter having a beautifully written epitaph upon it. No gratuity is allowed to be solicited by attendants. Here also lies buried the late ^Ir. Herbert, the much-esteemed M.P. for Kerry, and sometime Chief- Secretary for Ireland. 200 KILLARNEY TO MUCKROSS ABBEY, MUCKROSS ABBEY MANSION is the seat of H. A Herbert, Esq., M.P. for tlie county. The mansion was built from a design by Mr. Burn of London. It is new, and a fine example of the Elizabethan style. From various points in the demesne good views of the lake and surround- ing scenery are obtained, w^hich to particularise would but lessen the pleasure of seeing. By a good road we make the circuit of the domain and the islands Brickeen and Dinish, and join the high road about a mile from Tore Cottage. In hidden watery nooks among these woods, covered by shrubs, large ferns, and moss, grow isolated patches of that botanical treasure the Trichomanes speciosura, Glena is another station for it ; but without the assistance of a guide to point out the habitats, it is almost in vain to search for it. Its miniature, the Hymenophyllum Tun- hridgense, grows in vast luxuriance on every rock moistened by the spray of a waterfall or the trickling of all but im- perceptible streams. Nowhere is the latter more abundant than at the reputed station of the Trichomanes. TORO CASCADE. The visitor is admitted by a little gate, and may give a small gratuity (6d.) to the person who acts as porter. The gravel walk leads up a valley lined with larch on the one side, and holly, birch, oak, alder, and arbutus, on the other. The stream all the while is heard roaring down its channel on our right ; a rough wooden seat is gained, and the cascade bursts suddenly upon the view. It comes over a broken wall of rock, forming numerous cascades in its progress, but, from the nature of the rock, has less of the — — " Falling, and brawling, and sprawling, And driving, and riving, and striving," characteristic of Lowdore Eall, which, in appearance, though not in magnitude, it somewhat resembles. On each side rise precipitous rocks, covered with luxuriant trees and ferns. To the left a circuitous footpath leads to a spot from whence is obtained a view of the Middle and Lower THE ASCENT OF MANGERTOIf. 201 Lakes, with the peculiar peninsula of wooded rock which separates them. The Tore mountain rises close at hand on the left ; beyond the Middle Lake Glena appears, and the faint line of the Dingle hills forms the distance to the right. In the immediate foreground is the demesne and mansion of Muckross. The walk conducts still higher to a spot where the cascade is far under the observer's feet, and here the view is even liner than that from the lower station. The view from Tore cascade should never be omitted, for it is certainly one of the finest in Ireland. The waters of the cascade are precipitated in a sheet of white foam over a ledge of rocks sixty or seventy feet in height. After breaking on the rocks in mist and spray, the torrent resumes its impetuous course througn a deep narrow ravine, amidst plantations of fir and pine trees, and tastefully arranged pleasure-grounds, until it falls into the lake. THE ASCENT OF IMANGERTON. Until lately, Mangerton was considered the highest mountain in Ireland. It has been decided, however, by subsequent survey, that Carrantual is 658 feet higher, their respective heights being 2756 and 3414. The dis- tance between Muckross and the summit is five miles. The ascent, which is not very difficult, may be performed on ponies. The views from the various points are very fine, embracing an extent of scenery which gradually expands as we ascend. Four miles from Muckross we come to the Devil's Punch-Bowl, a tarn 2206 feet above the level of the sea, and more than two thousand above the lakes. It occupies a long oval basiu, about twenty- eight acres in extent. On every side but one the tarn is surrounded with shelving cliffs. C. J. Fox is said to have swam round the tarn in 1772. Near the lower bank of the Punch-bowl, not far from the ascending path, there is a fine echo ; in fair weather a magnificent view is got on reaching the summit. Those who do not care for such views, or cannot endure fatigue, may 202 ASCENT OF THE REEKS. ascend tlie road as far as Drumrourk Hill, behind the Muckross Hotel, where views of a romantic and agreeable character may be obtained without fatigue. It is usual to return by the same route. Many, how- ever, will prefer to turn off (under the direction of a guide) to Glenacoppal, or the Glen of the Horse, lymg between Mangerton and Stoompa. This lonely glen, which is about two miles in length, contains three small lakes, one called O'Donohue's Ink Bottle, from the darkness of its waters. Lough Guitane is a good lake for an angler, but the scenery around it is dreary, and has nothing in common with the Killamey Lakes. ASCENT OF THE REEKS."*^ The distance from Killamey to the summit is fifteen miles. The ascent is steep, and in some places difficult. Many routes are proposed, but these will depend on the position from which the tourist starts as well as his inclination. The services of a guide may be secured for half-a-crown, and it will be well to employ one. The descent is sometimes made by the valley of Coom-a-dhuv, and thence the journey may be continued to Killamey by the lakes or road, as the tourist may please. Mr. Curwen, in his " Observations on the state of Ireland," thus characterises the Reeks : — " Figure to your- self the towering mass rising almost perpendicular from its base to an elevation of 3414 feet, overshadowing the translucent waters of the lake. Such is the height of Macgillicuddy's Reeks, the most elevated mountaiu in Ire- land, whose summit is so indented, as to render it difficult on which point to fix as that most entitled to pre-emiuence. This mountain is accompanied by many others, little * For heights of mountains in county Kerry* see page 229- KILLARNEY TO VALENTIA. 203 inferior in loftiness and magnitude. One vast uninter- rupted expanse of purple heath overspreads the upper regions, while the shores of the lake are luxuriantly fringed with the arbutus and other trees." EXCURSION FROM KILLARNEY TO VALENTIA. Tourists who delight in coast scenery, and have time to spare, will be repaid by a visit to the Island of Valentia. A mail car leaves Killamey every day for Cahirciveen, distant 45 miles. The first half of the drive is rather bleak, but affords fine views of some genuine Irish mud cabins - miniLs chimney, window, chairs ; minus everything of a civilised nature. Lough Carragh (where there is a good inn) may also be visited on this route. The latter half of the road winds around part of the bay of Dingle, and abounds in views of that estuary. At places the road becomes very pre- cipitous. To enjoy the best views the right hand side of the car should be pre- ferred. Arriving at Cahiiciveen, the ferry must be asked for, which is about 2 miles off*. On being rowed across, the tourist will find a good and clean hotel near the landing place. When there, he should go along the lower coast road, and through the Knight of Kerry's grounds to the lighthouse, which stands sentinel of the bay. It is situated upon some rocks, upon which *' Cromwell's fort " was once built, and over which the Atlantic waves dash with the noise of thunder. At the other end of the island is Bray Head, rising precipitously 1000 feet out of the sea. The view from this point on a fine day is very fine. Fifteen miles out, the Skellings rise like two gigantic Gothic houses out of the sea, and have, like all the islands in view, the most outrS and fantastic shapes possible. All along the iron bound coast great rocky cliffs rise, and beat back the fury of the Atlantic waves. Not with impunity to themselves, however, for one, the mountain whose form at one time was like half a circle, now appears like a quarter only, the sea side of it having been completely washed away, and it now rises perpendicularly out of the water. Looking from this point, one cannot but believe it to be true what good authorities state, that all the estuaries upon the coast of Kerry were at a comparatively recent period dry land, and that the sea is eating away the coast at a fearfully rapid rate. A beacon tower rises from the sum- mit of the head, and although some of the natives speak of it as very ancient, it is evidently of comparatively modem origin. A few years ago it was garrisoned by soldiers, who, what with fog and rain, alternating vitb rain and fog, must have had a very Dleasant life of it. 204 KILLAKNET TO VALENTIA The walk back to the hotel round the other side of the island will aftord h variety of scenery. The entire walk will not be more than 16 miles. To those who have not seen the Penrhyn slate quarries, the slate quarry at Valentia is worth visiting, and the view from the hill above them will repay a visit. To those who can do without a night's sleep for once, a night upon the Atlantic with the herring fishermen aflfords capital sport. The splendid ap- pearance of the sea, which looks one mass of silvery light, and the excitement of catching fish by the thousand, well rewards one for all trouble involved. The waves are almost as big as houses, and of course impart a very pleasant motion to the boat, and make one nolens volens contribute very considerably to the support of the piscatory tribes. The fishermen will not receive any payment ; but a bottle of whisky and some tobacco will prove very accept- able to them about 2 or 3 a.m. Indeed the true character of the native Irish is evinced very plainly in these out-of-the-way districts where they are not spoiled by the influx of visitors. They willingly put themselves to great inconvenience without any idea of payment, and seem affronted when it is proffered. An agreeable excursion can be made to the caves near Doulus Head. If the weather be stormy, it is dangerous to attempt going, as the waves then dash in with tremendous fury, and of course render it impossible for any boat to enter. The hotel is very moderate in its charges, and is distinguished by the total absence of the pulex irritans and all its relatives. The pedestrian who desires to get back to Killamey again wiU find it a good plan to go from Valentia to Waterville (Hartopp Arms) or Sneem (a smaU inn), then to Kenmare, Glengariff, then back to Kenmare, and so on to Killamey, EXCURSION FROM KILLARNEY TO DINGLE. Should time allow, another excursion may be made from Killamey by road, via Milltown and Castlemain (15 mHes) to Dingle (42 miles, Petrie's Commercial). The road is good all the way from Castlemain to Inch, it skirts the sea and affords many fine views. Eight miles west from Dingle is the Sybil's Head, on which stand the ruins of an old castle 675 feet above the sea, and Ferriter Point the westermost point of Europe. The tourist can return from Dingle, which is a smaU decayed town, to Tralee (30 mHes) by the maU car road, or if he hires or walks, by the road which crosses the Connor HiU (1565 feet), from which many extensive views are obtained. The above excursions though given here are not recom- mended to the general tourist. 205 CORK TO KILLARNEY. By Railway to Bandon and Dukmanway, thence by Coach via Glengariff. A night should be spent on this route either at Bantry or Glengaritf. MHes. Miles. Cork, Bantry . 20 5ri Bandon (hy rail) . 20 Glengariff lOi 67^ Enniskean . 8^ 28^ Kenmare 21 88^ Dunmanway . . 8f 37i Killamey 19 107^ (By rail from Cork to Bandon and Dunmanway ; thence it will be neces- sary to hire a car. On the railway journey tourists may stop at any station, and resume it when they please.) The railway to Bandon passes firHt over a deep and wide valley, and then alternately through cuttings in sand or rock, again emerging into daylight, and running level with rich pastures on either side. Tliirteen miles from Cork a branch line strikes off on the left to Kinsale (George Hotel). This town, situate on an arm of the sea which forms a safe and commodious harbour, is one of the chief fishing stations in the south of Ireland. It was here that the Spanish were defeated in the reign of Elizabeth. BANDON. Hotels. — Devonshire Arms — Railway and Commercial (French's), This town stands on the forfeited property of the chief O'Mahony, who had joined in the rebellion of the Earl of Desmond. Eichard Boyle, afterwards Earl of Cork, pur- chased in 1602 the greater part of O'Mahony's property, and in 1608 commenced building a town on the banks of the river Bandon. It was carefully fortified, but owing to the inhabitants rising in behalf of James, the walls were removed. The amount of good done by the first Earl of Cork to the surrounding country was very great, yet bis lealous and persecuting spirit rendered him as much an object of fear as love. .. It is told of Swift that when he and his servant were 2C6 CORK TO KILLARNET. entering Bandon, the Dean being a little in advance, wrote on the gate of the town the following lines : — " Jew, Turk, or Atheist, May enter here, But not a Papist." The servant on arriving at the spot read the inscription, and concluding it was the Dean's composition, added the following rejoinder : — " Whoever wrote this did write it well, The same is posted on the gates of hell." The town is happily now more liberal in its views, and the obnoxious inscription has disappeared. There are places of worship for Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Eoman Catho- lics, and Methodists. From Bandon the railway follows the river Bandon and affords some pleasant views, and ter- minates at the little town of Dunmanway. Here the coach is taken, and it will be observed that the country becomes more wild and picturesque as we proceed, until we arrive at the village of Drimoleague, when it assumes the savage, stern, and moorland aspect which characterises almost the whole remainder of the road to Killarriey. BANTHY. Hotel.— Vickery's Commercial— {Charges on application.) As a town this place deserves little notice ; although from its position as a stage to the lakes, it is frequently visited. It is finely situated at the upper end of the beautiful bay of Bantry, of which many picturesque views may be obtained from hills and rising grounds on the shore ; a boy will lead the way to any of these stations for a few coppers. The demesne of Lord Bantry is close to the town, and the grounds are worth a visit, for the sake^f the admirable views obtained of the bay. The town depends upon fishing in winter, and tourists in sum- mer. It was here that the " aids from France " were BANTRT. S07 to have landed. " The fleet originally consisted of twenty- five ships of the line, but they had been scattered and dispersed by violent storms ; and when the remnant of this proud armament reached the Irish coast, the dissen- sions and jealousy which existed amongst the leaders of the expedition prevented them taking advantage of the opportunity that offered, of landing the troops without opposition." It is usual to continue by day-car to Glen- gariff, and thence to Kenmare ; but some may prefer the walk over Priest-leap direct. Unless the tourist have a considerable amount of perse- verance, and can subsist on the contents of his knapsack, this route should not be attempted. For the entire distance, which is called seventeen, but more nearly resembles twenty miles, not a public- house even of the meanest description is to be met with ; and probably none of the few persons to be met with on the way will be able to speak English. The road is certainly not bad for such a country, but rising nearly two thousand feet above the sea, is at times rather steep and toilsome. The route is not without its charms, however, to the tourist who delights in long wild rambles. Agreeable and atten- tive guides over the mountain may easily be procured in the neighbourhood. There are two routes from Bantry to Glengariff, one by land, the other by water. The latter is by some preferred, as by that means the ^vild scenery of the bay, which is twenty miles in length by from three to six or eight miles in breadth, is viewed to great advantage. A long drive of 22 miles, through a wild country, may be taken from Bantry to Skibbereen via Ballydehob (12 m.). On the coast, 3 m. from th^ latter village, is Rossbrin Castle, and a little to the east of this interesting ruin the Cappagh copper mines, well worth a visit. 208 GLENGARIFF. Hotels — The Koyal— Eccles. The visitor to Ireland will be well repaid by extending his journey to this place. Glengariff is a mountain glen, about 3 miles in length, and seldom more than a quarter of a mile in breath ; the rocks are wild and rugged in the extreme, but harmonised and softened into beauty by a rich covering of yew, holly, and arbutus, and effectively contrasted with the cultivation and art displayed in the beautiful grounds of Glengariff Castle. The most extensive view of the glen is obtained from the steep of Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge, from whence may be seen the dark woods, hills, and rushing streams of Glengariff, the lofty blue mountains of Bere- haven, the bold shores and numerous islands which break the expanse of Bantry Bay, and, afar off, the ocean boun- dary. The road from this to Kenmare, which was constructed many years since by the celebrated Scotch engineer, Nimmo, ascends a mountainous ridge, and affords fine views of the picturesque valleys beneath. On the summit of the ridge the road passes through a tunnel 600 feet long in the rock, when we enter the county of Kerry and obtain a sight of the Keeks. From this point the road becomes less wild and more cultivated, imtil we arrive at * * Travellers not pressed for time will be rewarded by taking the longer route by Castletown Bear, 15 miles from Glengariflf. The road passes through wild and romantic scenery, seldom visited by tourists. Comfortable inn at Castletown and good fishing. A walk of ten miles takes the teaveller across the country to Ardgoom ; from thence a boat can be taken at high water across the Kenmare River to Old Dromore, and thence per Muckross to Killamey. A mail-car, carrying passengers, runs through Glengariff trom Castletown to Bantry. 209 KENMARE. Hotel. — The Lansdowne Arms. This is usnally the haK-way station between Glengariff and Killamey. The town, which is entered by a fine suspension bridge over the river, is small, but neat and clean, and the bay delightful. There is one hotel, and a mail-car passes to and from Killamey every day. The barren and wild, but picturesque country, increases in grandeur as we advance, until upon reaching the summit of the ascent, the mountains of Killarney rise gradually and successively into view, and we descend into the rich and charming scenery surrounding the far-famed Lakes of Killamey. CORK TO KILLARNEY VIA Macroom and Glengariff. Railway open to Macroom, IJ hour. Cork. Miles. Miles. Macroom . 18 Bantry Bay . 47 Inchigeelagh . 25 Glengariff 53 Gougane Barra . 33 Keninare . . 74 Pass of Kamaneigli 39 Killarney . 83 This route, which may be confidently recommended, was formerly traversed by a two-horse car from Cork, but since the completion of the new line, passengers are taken direct to Macroom, whence a long car will convey them the rest of the way. The railway branches off the Bandon line {Station: Albert Quay) shortly after leaving Cork, and follows the river Lee up to its terminus at Macroom, There is nothing of much interest to attract attention from the railway, unless it be the superiority of the country through which it passes as a pastoral district. But im- mediately after leaving Macroom, the scenery becomes wild and romantic. By this route, time is allowed p 210 GOUGANE BARRA. for a visit by branch car to Gougane Barra, and the Pass ol Kamaneigli is seen to advantage. Macroom is a market-town of some size. Its ancient name was Maigh cruim, signifying the plain of Crom, who was the Jupiter Tonans of the Irish. The Bards, the second order of Druids, held their meetings here, even after the introduction of Christianity. The castle, ascribed to King John, is now an ivy-mantled ruin, situated contiguous to Macroom Castle, an elegant mansion. On this route we may visit, by branch car from Balnageary, GOUGANE BAERA, the wild home of the saintly founder of Cork, is a solitary mountain lake, formed by the expansion of the river Lee near its source. The lake, which covers an area of 250 acres, is surrounded on three sides by lofty cliffs, whose dark shadows it gloomily reflects. Near the centre of the lake is the small w^ooded island on which lived the pious St. Fionn Bar, connected with the shore by a rude artificial causeway. The verdure of the islet floating upon the glassy surface of the waters, and the foliage of the ash trees hanging over it, contrast finely with the bare and craggy ramparts of the opposite shores. The ruins of the hermitage are, apart from their romantic situation and associations, of little interest. The well is supposed to possess peculiar virtues, and was formerly much resorted to by pilgrims, twice every year ; but the scenes enacted at these patrons were often very gross, and consequently the Roman Catholic clergy have discounte- nanced them. Returning to the main road at Balnageary, the tourist will proceed to Glengariff by the Pass of Kamaneigh, a rugged ravine, through which rushes a mountain torrent. Arrive at Bantry (page 206), and Glengariff (page 208). N,B. — The route from Killarney to Limerick and the Shannon is described at page 224. GALWAY, LIMEBICK, THE SHANNON, AND CONNEMAEA. 212 V^DUBLIN TO GALWAY, through COUNTIES DUBLIN, ICILDARE, MEATH, WESTMEATH, ROSCOMMON, and GALWAY, by Mid- land Great Western Railway. ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN. Village op Glas- NEviN, residence of Addison, Swift, Tic- kell, Sheridan, etc. Botanic Gardens of Royal Dublin Society, and Cemetery, with tombs of Curran and O'ConnelL FEVOLA& DuNSiNK. The obser- vatory of Trinity Col- lege is on the summit of a wooded hill, as also the residence of Sir Wm. Hamilton. 125| 124^ 122i 121i 120 119J 117J Stations, etc. Dublin. The Broadstone Ter- minus is built of granite, and combines the features o'f the Grecian and Egyptian styles. The main line runs in a westerly direction, generally through a flat, unin- teresting country. Blanchardstown. A village on the river Tolka, 2Jm. from the station. It contains a nunnery and schooL Clonsilla. Junction for Trim, Navan, and Kells. Lncan. Lucan was formerly a place of fashionable resort, on account of its Spa. It was the property of the Sars- fields,. one of whom was created Earl of Lucan by James II. The title is now held bytheBinghams. The country surrounding Lucan is very rich and beautiful. ON left FROM DUBLIN. PhcenixPark. Wel- lington Obelisk. Viceregal Lodge, the residence during the summer months of the Lord Lieutenant. The building was bought from the Earl of Leitrim in 1784, and added to at vari- ous times by the re- presentatives of mo- narchy who occupied it. Castlenock, a ruin on a wooded emi- nence. The castle was erected by Hugh Tyrrell, one of the followers of Henry IL Edward Bruce took it in 1316, as also did Colonel Monck in 1642. 213 FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, &c.— Continited. ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN. CoNFET Castle. The ruin of a tower, being portion of a fortress founded evidently by one of the early Eng- lish settlers in Ire- land. The Royal College OP St. Patrick, for the education of Ro- man Catholic Clergy, was opened for stu- dents in 1795. The building, which con- sists of two quadran- gles, has latterly been much extended, in accordance with the designs of the late Mr. Pugin. It has accommodation for 520 students, who have the advantage of 215 private rooms. The college contains a library, a fine hall, cloisters, etc. The Parish Church is an interesting erec- tion, traced to the fifteenth century. The windows are much admired. 115^ 114 lllj stations, etc. Br. over Lififey ; enter Kildare County. Leixlip. Leixlip Castle was erected in the twelfth century by Adam Fitz-Hereford ; it is now the seat of Baron de Robeck. Maynooth. (See page 223). The castle was erected in 1426 by John Fitz- gerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. Sir William Brereton besieged and took the castle in the time of Henry VIII. The estate was confiscated, but after- wards restored to the eleventh EarL The castle is now in ruins. The massive keep and a portion of the out- works stiU remain. fa ^ 15 ON left from DUBLIN. A short walk along the bank of the Liffey leads to the famous salmon leap, a spot sacred to Dublin pic- nic parties. The river faUs over a ledge of rock in a beautiful cascade. The vale is well wooded, and al- together the scene is one. of surpassing beauty. Taqhadob Round Tower, 2 m. dist. S^ Carton, 2^ m. 3^ distant, the princely residence of the Duke ofLeinster — Ireland's only Duke. The man- sion is in the Grecian style, by Richard Cassels, who also designed Leinster House in Kildare Street, now occupied by the Royal Dublin Society. 214 PROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, bQ.—Cmtinmd. ON RIGHT FROM 1^ STATIONS, BTO. 11 ■~1 ON LEFT FROM | DUBLIN. ^ DUBLIN. i' — 1 107^ Eilcock Is said to have de- rived its name from a lady named St. Cocha, who founded a monastery here. 19 M9 Trim, 12 mUes distant, tlie county 105^ Fernslock. 21 DoNADEA Castle, the seat of Sir Gerald G. town of Meath, has Aylmer, Bart. ruins of a castle built by the De Lacys in 120 - 24^ Sepulchral Mount 1180,said to have been ■ AT Cloncurry. a the residence of King large mass of earth- John ; also the ruins work, resembling of an ancient abbey those known to con- founded by the De 100 Enfield. 26i tain human remains. Lacys. Several par- Jill IIPX\A« There is an old church liaments have been This was an impor- in ruins beside it. held here. The late tant posting station The place gives the Duke of Wellington before the opening of title of Baron to the spent some years of his youth at the railway. family of Lawless. Trim, whose military achievements are commemorated by a handsome Corinthian column erected by subscription. 98 Br. or. river Black- water. 28^ Ruins of Car- 6^ bury Castle, in the distance. Erected by the Birminghams in the twelfth century. 96 Moyvalley 30J It passed into the hands of the family of CoUey or Cowley in Br. or. river Boyne, 33 the sixteenth century. and enter County The Duke of Welling- ' Meath. Boyne aque- ton was descended 1 duct. from this famUy. The 215 FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, &c.— Continued. ON RIGHT FROM it STATIONS, ETC. 53 ^g S2 ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. ^1 DUBLIN. name and arms of m Hill of Down. 36 Wellesley were as- sumed by the Cowleys in 1728, when they 85 Killncan. Good black flagstone quarries in the vi- cinity. 41J succeeded to the pro- perty of Garret Wel- lesley of Dangan. MuUingar is an assize 76^ Mulling'ar. 50 town, with important fairs and markets for horses, cattle, and agricultural produce ; and barracks for 1000 men. Some remains exist of an Augustine priory, founded in Train usually waits 5 minutes. ;t^Branch to Cavan (35| miles), to Long- ford (26 miles), and Sligo (84 miles). Lough Ennell, which covers about 3400 acres, 5 miles in length by about 1 J mile in breadth. 1227, and of a Domi- nican friary, erected iu 1237. 73 53i RocHi''ORT House, the seat of Sir F. Hopkins, Bart. 7U 55 Belvidere, formerly the residence of the 68^ Castletown. 58 Earl of Lanesborough now the seat of Mr. 64^ Streamstown. Branch to Clara, 8 miles. 62 Marley. The grounds are tastefully laid out, and command good views of Loch Ennell, or Belvidere Lake. m Deep cutting through limestone. 64 Laragh CASTT.E. The ruin of a tower. BallinderryLough. 60^ 66 An artificial island, with antique swords, 58^ Moate, 68 and spears, and bone of cow, horse, and pig, were found in 1850. A canoe, made from A town on the old coach road between Galway and Dublin. the hollowed trunk of 75 Motdrum, the seat of a tree, was also found. Lord Castlemaine. A large number of fish exist in the lake. Athlone. 78 disjunction for Poit- TARLINGTON. '216 FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAT, &c.— Ccmfiniiecl ON RIGHT FROM STATIONS, ETC. 1=' ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. ^ DUBLIN. .^ir Auburn, 8 miles 48i Athlone 78' Seven Churches of distant (page 260). Garb ALLY, seat of the Earl of Clancarty. Is a military station. It sends one member to Parliament (page 252). Clonmacnoise, six miles by Shannon, and twelve by road. Branch to Roscom- mon, Castlebar, The Shannon is Westport, and Fox- crossed by a magnifi- ford- cent bridge designed by Mr. Hemans. f 34 Ballinasloe. The town is in two counties, i.e., Gal way and Roscommon, Chiefly remarkable 92i i 32i for its extensive Oc- tober horse and cattle fair. Contains places of worship forvarious religious sects. The ruins of a cast! e of the 16th century still exist (page 229). 94 AuGHRiM, famous as the scene of a battle, fought on the 12th July 1691, between King James' Irish forces, commanded by St. Ruth, and the forces of King Wil- liam III., command- KlLCONNELL ABBET Ruins. 28 98^ ed by General de Ginkle. King James' forces were totally WooDLAWN, seat of Lord Ashtown. 25 Woodlawn. lOli routed, and St. Ruth was kiUed in this en- gagement. 16 Connemara Moun- tains visible to the right. llOJ Ruins op Bally- 13 Athenry. 113J DAViD Castle. A very ancient town, having the town Athenry. a battle walls, castle, reli- was fought in the gious houses, and neighbourhood, in castellated gates, all 1315, between the in ruins. Branch to English and Irish, TuAM, 16 miles. when the latter were 7i 119 RuiNO of Derrydon- 1 defeated. nel Castue. J 217 FROM DUBLIN TO GALWAY, &c.—€onfAnu€d. ! ox RIGHT FROM DDBLIN. It fe'5 5i STATIONS, ETC. - c 121 ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. Oranmore. View of Galway Bay and Islands of Anan. Lough Athalia, -which receives the waters of Lough Corrib. \ A handsome swivel bridge, which affords " two steamboat- ways of 60 feet each. " 126i \ Galway. The terminus, part of which forms the Rail- way Hotel (page 263). 126^ COUNTY KILDAEE is merely skirted on the north side by this line of railway. The southern part of the county has already been described in the route from Dublin to Cork. Maynooth is celebrated on account of its ruined castle and Roman Catholic College. The to\yn consists of one wide street. At one end is an entrance to Carton, the fine seat of the Duke of Leinster, with a demesne of about 1000 acres, which may be seen on week days,"^ At the other stands the ruined castle, once the stronghold of the Fitzgeralds. The castle, which was built in 1426 by the sixth Earl of Kildare, was treacherously surrendered by the foster-brother of " Silken Thomas," a brave Fitz- gerald. The latter being in rebellion against Henry VIII., intrusted the government of the castle to Christopher Parese, who sent a letter to the Lord Deputy, offering to give up the castle to him. The Deputy availed himself of the offer, when Parese, expecting some further reward in addition to the price of his treason, was asked by the Deputy what favours he had received at the hand of Lord Thomas Fitzgerald. Parese, in hopes to raise his value in the Deputy's eyes, recounted the many favours he had received almost daily at the hand of Thomas, and waa ♦ Leave to fish on the lake is granted on written application. 218 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. answered, " How, Parese, couldst thou find it in thy heart to betray the castle of so kind a lord ? Here, Mr. Trea- surer, pay down the money he has covenanted for — and here, also, Executioner, without delay, as soon as the money is counted out, chop off his head." Not far from this ruin is situated the Boyal College of Maynooth. Young men intended for the Catholic church were formerly under the necessity of proceeding to continental universities. During the war of the latter part of the last century, it was impossible to con- vey students to and from foreign colleges, and the Irish parliament, without a dissentient voice, passed a bill declar- ing it lawful to found a college where the Catholic religion should be exclusively taught, at the same time granting a sum of money towards its establishment. In October 1795, it was opened for the reception of fifty students. The number now averages from four to five hundred. " A sum of about «£8000, subject to certain deductions, was annu- ally voted by the Irish, and afterwards by the Imperial Parliament, for its maintenance, from 1795 to 1807, when ^5000 additional were voted for the enlargement of the buildings. The annual vote from 1808 to 1813 was £8283, and from 1813 to 1845 it was raised to £8928. The annual grant for the first four years was principally expended in erecting and furnishing the front range of the CoUege ; the cost of the other portions of the buildings, successively erected in 1808, 1815, 1824, and 1835; was defrayed partly from the specific grant of £5000 for that purpose, partly from several unconditional donations to the College, amounting to £6000, and partly from the accumu- lated savings on the entrance fees and pensions of the students. The total amount of donations and bequests to the College, including the sums funded for exhibitions, was £31,681, besides all the fee-simple estates of the late Lord Dunboyne, in the county of Meath, which now return to the College £460 per annum. The entrance fees and pensions of the students from 1813 to 1844 amounted to ROYAL COLLEGE OF MAYNOOTH. 219 moie than .£84^000. The nmriber of students increased with the enlargement of the buildings from 50 to 250 ; then gradually rising to 400, it amounted in 1836 and the three following years, to 478 ; but between 1841 and 1845 it fell to an average of 430 : of these 250 Tvere charged on the Parliamentary vote ; the others paid an annual pension for their maintenance. By the Act of 8 and 9 Yict. c. 25, the College was placed on a new footing, and permanently endowed for the maintenance and education of 500 students, and of 20 senior scholars on the Dunboyne foundation, which has been uniformly since that time the total number of students. Besides providing for the annual cost of com- mons, etc., for these 520 students, of allowances to the 20 Dunboyne students, and to 250 students of the three senior classes, and of salaries to the president, superiors, and pro- fessors, the Act moreover vested in the Commissioners of Public Works a sum of £30,000 for erecting the buildings necessary to accommodate the enlarged number of students. No applicant can be received as a student of Maynooth College unless he be designed for the priesthood in Ire- land, be sixteen years of age, recommended by his bishop, and answer satisfactorily at his entrance examination."* The sum annually paid out of the Consolidated Fund for the maintenance of students, salaries of professors, etc., is £26,360. Of the present Koman Catholic priesthood of Ireland, about one-half were educated at Maynooth, the remainder having received their education at other col- leges, such as Carlow^, Tuam, etc., and at foreign univer- sities. By the Irish Church Act of 1869 the above annual payment to the College was commuted to a capital sum equal to fourteen years' purchase, which, with the help of private "bequests, will enable this institution to educate the same number of students as heretofore. Carhury, five miles south of Enfield, and close by the source of the river Boyne, is a place of much interest in ancient Irish history. The old castle, originally built by * Thorn's Irish Almanack. 220 DUBLIN TO GA^LWAT. the family of Bermingham, one of tlie early Englisli settleis, and afterwards plundered and burned on several occasions, became the property of the Cowleys or Colleys, an English family who settled in Ireland in the time of Elizabeth. Lord Deputy Sydney knighted one of the family, and re- commended him to Lord Grey, his successor, as " Sir Henry Cowley, a knight of my own making, who, whilst he was young, and the ability and strength of his body served, was valiant, fortunate, and a good servant." By marriage con- nections the Cowleys assumed the name of Wellesley. The name had originally been Westley, or Wesley. The first settler in Lreland of the name was standard-bearer to Henry H. MEATH is a county containing an area of 579,899 acres, which are almost entirely under cultivation. The population in 1861 was 110,373. The principal towns are Trim, Navan, and Kells. The two latter towns will be more properly introduced into another portion of the work, Drogheda is partly in Meath and partly in Louth. Trim (Darling's Hotel) is reached from Dublin (30 miles) by the Meath Eailway from Broadstone terminus. The town contains no building of any note. There is, however, the County Court-House, a modem edifice of some pretension, and several chapels, hospitals, and a union workhouse. This historic locality abounds in ruins of great interest, in combination producing much picturesque effect, and at the southern entrance to the town stands a lofty Corinthian column of granite, erected in honour of the Ijron Duke, once a resident at Dangan, in this neighbourhood. The ancient castle of the De Lacys, called King John's Cas- tle, and considered the finest specimen of Anglo-Norman military architecture in Ireland, still exists in ruin, and so lately as 1688 it was garrisoned. The ruins, which plea- santly overlook the Boyne, consist of the thick walls flanked by no less than ten towers of various shapes. The keep or donjon is also in fair preservation. It rises to a height SECTIVE ABBEY. 221 of nearly eighty feet ; its summit may be readied by wind- ing staircases, and a fine view of the other interesting ruins of the neighbourhood obtained. The site of an abbey, said to have been founded here by St. Patrick, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, can stilj be traced, and on the same spot the picturesque Yellow Tower now stands, upwards of 125 feet in height — the most lofty remnant of Anglo-Norman architecture now existing in the country. Several other abbeys were founded at various times, as the Grey Friary ascribed to King John, the Dominican or Black Friary, founded by Geoffrey de Geneville, Lord of Meath, and in which several Parliaments were held, and where it was enacted (in 1446) that the Irish should cut their beards after the English fashion, and not wear yellow shirts. About two miles south of Trim ia Laracor, the early residence of Dean Swift and " Stella,'* and nearly one mile below the town, on the river Boyne, are the fine ruins of the monastery, founded in 1206 by Simon de Eochfort, Bishop of Meath, and the ancient cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, one of the earliest and most elegant specimens of the light pointed Gothic style in Ireland. Bective Abbey ^ half way between Trim and Navan, is a very perfect and picturesque ruin. The windows are en- tirely in the Pointed style. The body of Hugh de Lacy, first Lord Palatine of Meath, who was assassinated at Darrow Castle by an Irish soldier, was buried under one of the arches. His head, however, was conveyed to Dublin, and buried in the abbey of St. Thomas the Martyr, in the tomb of Eosa de Monmouth, his first wife. A fierce dispute having afterwards arisen between the two abbeys as to which should possess the remains entire, it was finally decided by the Pope that the body should go with the head, and it is supposed to have been removed to Dublin accordingly about a.d. 1205. Navan, Tara, Kells, and Dangan, wiU be more properly embraced ia another portion of the work. 222 DUBLIN TO GALWAY. WESTMEATH contains an area of 453,468 statute acres, of which fully five-sixths are under cultivation. The total area of lakes in the county is 16,334 acres. The population in 1871 was 78,416. The principal town is Mullingar. Athlone is built on both sides of the Shannon, Mulling ar, the assize town, in the centre of a fine flat country, fifty niiles distant from the capital, with which it has both canal and railway communication, is naturally a place of some importance — its fairs for horses and cattle, and markets for agricultural produce, being extensive and much frequented. The town is situated on the river Foyle, about equal distance from Lough Owel and Lough Ennell. In 1227 the priory of St. Mary, formerly known by the name of " the House of God of Mullingar^^ was founded here by Ralph de Petyt, Bishop of Meath, for regu- lar canons of the orde^ of St. Augustin. The town contains, besides the usual buildings appropriate to a country town, a large barrack for infantry ; but the chief attraction is the neighbourhood of the lakes Ennel or Belvedere, Owel, and Derevaragh, where fine brown trout weighing from 3 to 13 lbs. are abundant. Anglers are supplied with the necessary appliances at the Mullingar Hotel. The tourist may here diverge to Cavan by rail, thence to Enniskillen by rail ; and then again by rail to Londonderry, whence he can proceed to Portrush and the Giant's Causeway. *Multifarnham is the first station on the branch line from Mullingar to Longford and Cavan. The abbey, founded in 1236 for conventual friars of the order of St. Francis, escaped the destruction of the '^ Dissolution," but was al- lowed to go to decay after the rebellion of 1641, the plans for which, it is said, were formed within its walls. Edgworthstown, in the county Longford, is the next station on the Sligo branch. It is a neat village, situated in a bleak flat country, but rendered interesting as the birthplace of Maria Edgeworth, and the residence of the Edgeworth family. Auburn^ more properly called Lishoy, the supposed * See page 31?. OALWAT. 223 scene of Oliver Goldsmith's Deserted Village, is within this county ; but as it borders on the Shannon, we will refer to it in another place. It is most conveniently visited from Athlone. EOSCO!M]MON is entered at Athlone by a bridge over the Shannon. Of the scenery in this immediate neighbour- hood more particular mention will be made when treating of the Shannon. The county contaias an area of 607,691 statute acres, of which nearly four-fifths are imder cultiva- tion. The population in 1871 was 141,246. The chief towns are Eoscommon, Boyle, Tulsk, and Athlone. Bal- linasloe, like Athlone, is in two counties, being situated on the Suck where it separates Eoscommon from Galway, but it is always considered as belonging to the latter county, which contains nearly seven-eighths of its population. The line of railway passes through about fourteen miles of the county of Eoscommon, when it crosses the Suck, and enters GALWAY. The county of Galway, in point of extent, is the second in the kingdom, covering an area of 1,566,354 statute acres. 90,030 acres are covered by water ; and 708,000 are uncultivated. It contmns 18 baronies, and 120 parishes. The population in 1871 was 248,257. On the east it is bounded by Eoscommon, King's County, and Tipperary ; on the north by Mayo ; on the south by Clare ; and on the west by the wide Atlantic. It is now com- pletely separated into two parts by Loughs Corrib and Mask, and the little canal which unites them. BalUnasloe is noted for its great October cattle fair, one of the largest in the kingdom. Garbally Castle, the modern mansion of the Earl of Clancarty, and its beautiful demesne, adjoin the town, of which the Earl is proprietor ; and four miles distant Aughrim, the scene of the decisive battle between the forces of William III., under De Ginkle, and those of James II., commanded by St. Euth. The latter were totally routed, and St. Euth slain in the en- gagement 224 LIMEEICK TEOM KILLAENEY. LOWER SHANNON. RoxrrE I, Killamey, rail, Tralee. Tralee, coach, via Listowel, Tarbert. Tarbert, sieamer, vid Kilrusb, Foy- nes. Foynes, rail, Limerick. Route II. Killamey, rail, Tralee. Tralee, coach, Tarbert. Tarbert, by steamer, vid Kilrush, nj the Shannon, direct to Lim& RICK. This tour, wMch embraces tlie scenery of the Lower Shannon, may be conveniently accomplished in one day, whether taken as laid down, or by reversing it, and so making Limerick the starting-point, and Killamey the destination. Should a visit to Scattery Island and Ellkee be contemplated, an extra day at the least ought to be spent on them. The scenery, etc., of the Shannon above Limerick will be found described elsewhere. Leaving Killarney by the morning train, we have not much to attract our attention for the first stage. Looking back, the view of Macgillicuddy's Eeeks is very fine, as also that of the Lower Lake, though confessedly inferior to the first view of the Upper Lake from the Kenmare road. TEALEE [Hotel: Blennerhasset Arms — Bed Is. ed., breakfast Is. 6d., dinner 2s. 6d., private room 2s. 6d.] is a prosperous town, prettily situated on the banks of the small river Lee, with about 10,000 inhabitants, and returning one member to Parliament. A ship-canal tmites the town with its port at Blennerville, and brings up vessels of 300 tons into a basin adjoining the town. The Franciscan abbey of Ardfert is only 6 miles north of this, and should be visited if possible. The traveller now takes the coach for Limerick via Listowel and Tarbert. TAEBEET [Hotel: Gallagher's— Bed Is. 6d., breakfast Is. 6d., lunch Is. 4d., dinner 2s. 6d., tea Is. 3d., private room 2s. 6d.], a coast-guard station and small town of little importance, on a bay of the Shannon called Tarbert Bay. RILLARNEY TO LIMERICK. 225 It is admirably situated for commerce, but witbont an id- diistrial neigbbourbood to supply tbe materials for trada Every day a steamer from Limerick calls at tbe pier, about a mile from tbe town, on its way to and from Kilrush. From tbe latter port tbe journey to Limerick may be ac- complisbed eitber by steamer to Foynes, tbence by rail to Limerick, or by steamer all tbe way to tbat city. Tbe latter route occupies about four bours. Tbe following are tbe principal places of interest : — Scatiery Island, wbicb lies about one mile off tbe sbore near Kilrusb, and on wbicb stands one of tbe finest of tbe Irisb '^ round towers," 120 feet in beigbt, and tbe ruins of " Seven Cburcbes." " In general," says tbe intelligent German traveller Kobl, " wbere tbere are Seven Cburcbes in L?eland, some ancient saint is named as bavin g lived and died tbere, and as baving belonged to tbe first preacbers of Cbristianity in tbe country. At Scattery it is Saint Senanus, wbose grave is still sbewn amid one of tbe ruins, and wbose fame bas extended far beyond bis native isle by one of Moore's melodies. Tbese ancient ruins, bowever, h^ve many graves of a modern date, for bodies are still brougbt over from tbe mainland to be interred at Scattery. On tbe occasion of sucb a funeral, one boat serves generally as a bearse, and tbe mourners follow in otber boats. I saw many tombstones only a few years old, witb new inscrip- tions, from wbicb tbe gilding bad scarcely begun to fade, and tbeir presence upon tbe solitary and remote island bad a peculiar and by no means unpleasing effect. Among tbem were tombs of several captains of sbips, and it would bave been difficult to suggest a more appropriate place of interment for sucb men tban tbis little island cemetery, at tbe moutb of a great river, witb tbe wide ocean rolling in front. Indeed, tbere is no otber country in Europe wbere tbere are sucb interesting cemeteries, or sucb picturesque tombs, as in Ireland, partly on account of tbe abundance of ivy witb wbicb tbey are bung, and partly on account of tbe practice tbat still prevails of burying tbe dead among 226 KILKEE. mins." The little island is covered wdtli pasturage. The seven churches can scarcely now be traced. A miserable shed is pointed out as the humble abode of the woman- hating St. Senanus, who, by Moore, is made to give utter- ance to the warning — "Oil ! haste and leave this sacred isle. Unholy hark, ere morning smile ; For on thy deck, though dark it be, A female form I see ; And I hav^e sworn this sainted sod Shall ne'er by woman's feet be trod." In his own day he might have the satisfaction of keeping off fair intruders, but all his expostulations, and even ana- themas, would but little avail in this age of curiosity and sight-seeing. Kilrush (Yandaleur Arms) is growing in importance as a watering-place, and from its proximity on the one hand to the Shannon, and on the other to the wide Atlantic, is likely to become a favourite place of summer residence. It is also the nearest town to Kilkee, on Moore Bay (Moore's Hotel), a delightful water- ing-place, with the wide expanse of the Atlantic before it, nine miles distant from Kilrush. From a beautifully- written book called " Two Weeks at Kilkee," by the accomplished Mary J. Knott, we extract a description of the place : — " The town, which commands a fine view of the bay, is built close to the sea, and assumes a semicircular form from the shape of the strand, which presents a smooth, white, sandy surface, of above half a mile in length, where the invalid can, without fatigue or interruption, enjoy the exhilarating sea breeze and surrounding scenery. The principal street runs nearly from one end of the village to the othei ; these ex- tend to the strand, and at every few steps afford a fine view of the Atlantic wave dashing into foam against the cliffs which circumscribe its power, and the rocks of Duganna, which run nearly across the bay." A very fine Danish fort in the vicinity is formed by a bank of earth 700 m le 1 KILLARNEY TO LIMERICK. 227 feet m circumference, succeeded by a wide moat, inside of which, rises a platform. It is a common belief that this place is haunted, and, some time since, a ventriloquist threw the neighbourhood into consternation by causing sounds of distress and anguish apparently to proceed from the vaults. The cave of Kilkee is about two miles from the town. The better plan for visiting this cave is by oared boats, to be hired of the fishermen. By adopting this plan, an ex- tensive sea view is obtained for the whole distance. " Having cleared," writes M. J. Knott, " the rocks of Du- ganna, the great expanse of water presented a magnificent appearance ; the nearest point on the opposite shore was that of Newfoundland, 2000 miles distant. In passing along, the dark cliffs, the Amphitheatre, the Pufhng Cavern, the Flat or Diamond Eocks, in succession arrested our attention, and excited admiration." On the way, Look-Out Bay, the scene of the ship\\T?eck of the " Intrinsic," is passed. The arched entrance to the cave is computed at sixty feet in height. Numerous jutting rocks, depend- ing stalactites, and cone-like stalagmites, attract the notice as we proceed into the cave, which gradually diminishes in height till, at the extremity, nearly 300 feet from the en- trance, it is not more than thirty feet high. " The roof presented a beautiful variety of rich metallic tinges, from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water, which kept continually dropping from the top, and gave increased effect to the light thrown in at the entrance, which formed a striking contrast with the darkness at the upper end." The echo produced in the cavern, even by the slightest soimd, is astonishing. Towards the upper end we are in almost total darkness, but on turning the boat, the light gradually breaks upon us, making the whole cavern shine and glisten like a fairy retreat. A small ship's boat can be taken all the way into the cave. The coast from Kilkee to the extremity of Loop Head is remarkable for its cliff scenery and geological for- mation. The rocks are the black indurated coal-measure 228 FOTNES. shaleSj generally almost horizontal, the vertical cliffs being formed along the joints, and worn in some places into na- tural bridges and caverns. Near Loop Head, however, the beds are in some places vertical, and the whole cliff of 180 feet in height is formed of the surface of a bed. Resuming our route up the Shannon, two miles above Tarbert, The Castle of Glin, adjoining the town of Glin, is passed. It is a noble building as viewed from the road, and on the summit of a mound a little way off stands a farm building in the castellated style. FOYNES, situate on the left shore, is next reached, where the tourist must make up his mind whether to take the rail or steam all the way. This place was, among others, proposed as the station for the American mail- packets ; but notwithstanding many advantages possessed by this and other harbours in Ireland, it was thought, on the whole, more desirable to select Queenstown as the point of departure. There is no doubt that the river Shannon possesses many advantages for navigation which have yet to be called into use. Limerick may be reached by railway from Foynes. The line proceeds by the an- cient towns of Rathkeale and Adare to Limerick, p. 230. Asheaton stands at the mouth of the Deel, on the left shore of the Shannon. Tlie name of the town is derived from its proximity to a waterfall, As-cead-tinne, signif}dng " the cascade of the hundred iires," on the river Deel, over which there is a good bridge. The most interesting object is the ruined abbey, situated on an eminence on the west side of the river, and founded in 1420 by James, seventh Earl of Desmond. It is curious to note that, in the course of 138 years after this event, James, i\i^ fifteenth Earl, wad buried within it. The abbey is in a good state of preserva- tion, and contains some interesting tombs. The castle was a stronghold of the Earls of Desmond. Sir George Carew KILLARNEY TO LIMERICK, 229 attacked it in 1574. Tlie garrison withdrew, but blew np the gunpowder, destroying the greater part of the edifice. The Franciscan monastery of Askeyton was of such conse- quence that a chapter of the order was held here in 1564. On the opposite side of the Shannon is the deep bay-like estuary of the river Fergus, running past Clare Castle and EnniSj the assize town of the county Clare. The ancient name for the town was Clare, as that for the county was Thomond, It is a town of some importance, with 8000 inhabitants, sending one member to Parliament. The ruins of the Franciscan abbey, founded in 1250 by Donach Carbrac O'Brien, Prince of Thomond, are much admired. The interesting ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1194 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, are half-way between Ennis and the village of Clare Castle. These may be visited either from Kilrush by car, or from Limerick by railway. Having reached Listowel on the foregoing route, the tourist may direct his course to Newcastle, a small town, having a population of about 3000, with a church, Roman Catholic chapel, infantry barracks, a market house, hotel, etc., whence he may take the railway to Limerick. Or he may pro- ceed i)y car from Tralee to Newcastle, passing through the village of Abbey- f'eale on the way. ELEVATION OF PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS IN COUNTY KERRY. Feet Tomies 2413 Stoompa ----- 2281 Tore 1764 Eagle's Nest - - - - 1103 Feet. Carrantuohill - - - - 3414 Macgillicuddy*s Reeks - - 3141 Mangerton . - - - 2756 Purple Mountain - - 2739 Sheehey Mountain - - 2413 ELEVATION OF PRINCIPAL LAKES IN COUNTY KERRY. Feet. Devil's Punch Bowl ^Mangerton) 2206 Cummeennacopasta (Reeks) - 2156 Erhagh 1408 Gouragh (Reeks) - - - 1126 Callee (Do.) - - - 1096 Managh 1074 Caragarry - - - - 871 Black Lough (Gap of Dunloe) 587 Feet Augur Lough (Gap of Dunloe) - 397 Cushvalley (Do.) - - 337 Black Lake (Do.) - - 334 Guitane 256 Coom-a-dhuv Lough - - 197 Upper Lake - - - - 70 Lower Lake - - - ^ 230 LIMERICK. LIMERICK AND MIDDLE SHANNON. Hotels. — Crtiise's Koyal — The George— Clare — Moore's. Mail cars to Castleconnell and Killaloe — to Eathkeale and Newcastle— to Tralee via Foynes, Tarbert, and Listowel— to Bruff and KilmaUock— and to Pallaskenry. Limerick to Killarney daily by rail and car. Limerick to Kilrush, via Foynes, by rail and steamer once a-day. Limerick to Oalwat by rail, vid Ennis and Gort. Limerick, known as the " (7% of the Violated Treaty ^^ and associated with, events of much historic interest, is situated on the banks of the river Shannon, and consists of an old and new town. The ancient portions comprise the " Irish" and "English" towns, and the modern, con- taining several handsome streets, is denominated Newtown - Pery, after the family name of the Earl of Limerick, on whose property it is built. The old city was formerly surrounded by a massive wall, detached portions of which may yet be seen, and which attest its former strength and solidity. Limerick withstood many sieges, the most mo- dem of which were those of Cromwell and William the Third. After several ineffectual attempts to take the city, and after meeting with many severe repulses, William, in the year 1691, offered advantageous terms to the besieged, which were accepted by the Irish troops commanded by Sarsfield, Earl of Lucan, and the city was surrendered to General De Ginkle. The Treaty Stone, on which the articles of capitulation were signed, is now erected on a pedestal on the north end of Thomond Bridge. Bridges, — The English Town is built on an island, and is connected with Newtown-Pery by Mathew bridge (called after the apostle of temperance), and with Irish Town b> Pablisltea. Trf A i m^ii:m REPERBSCE. TownlFall.. 2 City Court Mouse 2 Rxx-Kange 3 CaffieBTaLOuirck 4- Castle Barracic IhoinoniChapeL 6 Custom JBJouse County Court Souse CttyGojol 9 JtbnJcs School 10 Linetv JBaR JL ConLMca^eet 12 ArtOlery BaTTock, J3 County GaxfZ 24- County MfspitaL .25 lunatic Asylum, _Z( lost Office l; Tolice Barrack 19 lord BLrhops Palace .?0 Sussea ^ Sons Offuxs.. .21 Jfunjiery ..Z2 JFranciscan Chaspel 23 mruse , -25 S*^Mxry\f ChapeL :.-26 JBresbyterujJt3l£etm^ So. 28 JTewBarr'ach -29 CATBEDRAL OF LIMERICK. . 231 Baal's Bridge, a modem structure built on the site of the old one, which was of great antiquity, as the name in- dicates. Thomond Bridge connects English Town with the county of Clare ; and less than a quarter of a mile to the west stands Wellesley Bridge — probably one of the handsomest in Ireland — connecting the county of Clare with ISTewto^Ti-Pery. On this bridge a statue has been erected to the late Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell at the battle of Balaclava. There is a long line of quayage running uninterruptedly from the Wellesley Bridge to the lately erected floating docks. Limerick city, which in 1871 contained 39,828 in- habitants, returns tw^o members to Parliament. The assizes for the county are held here. Cathedral of Liraerick. — The greater part of this vener- able building, as it now stands, has been referred to the tweKth and thirteenth centuries. It is in what may be called the Transition style, and is rendered more heavy and dull in its interior by having been fitted up with pews and other appendages to a Protestant church, into which it haa been transformed. Many of the tombs will interest the antiquarian. The steeple, which is 120 feet high, affords an extensive view of the surrounding country, and in it there is a chime of eight bells, originally brought from Italy, and recently repaired by the late Earl of Limerick. When De Ginkle besieged the city, the Irish placed a large cannon on the steeple, and having appointed one of their best gunners to the charge of it, did great havoc among the enemy. The Castle, built in the time of Eang John, is even in its ruins a noble structure. Seven massive towers still exist, and are connected by high walls of prodigious thick- ness — the whole affording one of the best examples of a Norman stronghold to be met with in the country. The walls upon the side facing the river are well marked with the effects of shot and shell. Within the castle walls are a few buildings used as a barrack. 232 LIMERICK. Newtown-Pery. — The better streets are all situated in this part of the city. George Street is a fine promenade, continued on the one side through Richmond Place to the Military Walk, and on the other along Patrick Street through Eutland Street to Mathew Bridge. Henry Street and Catherine Street run parallel with George Street, and all three are crossed at right angles by several others. In Pery Square there stands a column surmounted by a statue of the late Lord Monteagle, for many years M.P. for the city. This was erected at the expense of his father-in- law the Earl of Limerick. In the centre of Richmond Place, which consists of two handsome crescents at the south end of George Street, there is a bronze statue of Daniel O'Connell, and in one of the crescents will be ob- served the residence of the Jesuit Fathers — a large build- ing with portico in front. Turning up from Richmond Place, the visitor mil pass the Laurel Hill Convent and the Church of St. Alphonsus. Public Buildings, — There are several handsome and commodious public buildings, amongst which are the County and City Court-Houses, the Town-Hall, and others indicated on the plan. St. John's Roman Catholic Cathe- dral is a handsome ecclesiastical structure, built at a cost of about Xl 7,000, the voluntary offering of the people. There are several other Roman Catholic Churches and Charitable Institutions — such as the Christian Brothers' School, teaching 3000 boys, the Sisters of Mercy, and the Convent of the Good Shepherd, well worthy of a visit from those interested in philanthropic institutions. Manufactures. — Limerick depends in a considerable measure on the flax factories of Messrs. Russell and the army clothing factory of Mr. Tait, which give employ- ment to several hundreds of both sexes. The making of lace and gloves is also carried on extensively. By far the most interesting feature in Limerick, however, is the SHANNON, the noblest of Irish rivers, which runa THE SHANNON. 233 through the countiy for a distance of 240 miles, through ten counties, now as a narrow stream, then a wide glassy lake ; now placid and calm, surrounded by rich meadows or luxuriant woods, and anon dashing down a rugged and uneven bed in mimic cataracts. Lough Allen, in the county of Leitrim, supplied by streams from the high and rugged mountains by which it is surrounded, may be con- sidered the source from which the Shannon rises. The lake is about ten miles long, and deeply imbedded in lofty hills, which are supposed to contain rich and copious stores of iron and coal. Out of Loch Allen the river flows into a narrow, shallow, and impeded channel ; occasionally widening into small lakes between the counties of Leitrim and Roscommon to Lanesborough, where it exjDands into the great Lough Eee, twenty miles long, and in some parts four broad. For thirty-seven miles to Portumna the channel is more confined ; but it is still a bold and wide river. From Portumna to Killaloe its course is through Loch Derg, the largest of the Shannon lakes. At Killaloe it resumes the character of an ordinary river, but the navigation thence to Limerick is impeded by shallows and rapids to such an extent, that although the total fall of the river, in its whole course of 240 miles, is only 174 feet, the fall between Limerick and Killaloe, a distance of only twelve miles, is 97 feet — more than half of the entire fall. From Limerick to its mouth the Shannon is a tideway, and resembles a great estuary or arm of the sea. That it is possible to be disappointed with the Shannon is true, especially if the tourist have had exaggerated accounts pre- sented to him of its beauty and sublimity. Even N. P. Willis confesses to " great disappointment in the Shannon." He adds, " my expectations were too highly raised. Moore's poem of St. Senanus (whose sacred isle is just below Tarbert) and Sir Aubrey de Vere's elegant sonnet,"^ give a romance to the Shannon, which paints it in fancy too flatteringly." * We need hardly offer any apology for quoting the beautiful sonnet of Sir Aubrey : — [Vide page 23()."l 234 LIMERICK. SHORT EXCURSION FROM LIMERICK UP THE SHANNON. There is scarcely any locality in which a day can be more pleasantly spent by the admirer of the beauties of nature, than that part of the river which runs from Castle Connell to Limerick. The tourist, by proceeding to the canal, which is within ten minutes walk of any of the city hotels, can, at the cost of four or five shillings, hire one of those safe and commodious flat-bottomed boats called angling cots and the aid of one or two of the fisher- men who know every inch of the river, and delight in communicating to interested listeners the legendary lore with which the ancient waters abound. After proceeding for an English mile through the canal you enter on the Upper Shannon, and here, the prospect becomes very in- teresting. On before you, as far as the eye can reach, you have a panorama of beautifully-wooded country, while on your left the prospect is bounded by the mountains of Clare, and on the right by the turret-crowned hill of the Newcastle race-course. Paddling onward for an- other mile you arrive at Plassey, the seat of Richard Eus- seU, Esq., and passing under the Ennis railway bridge, which here crosses the river, you come to the rapids called Hickey's Falls, where you may see boats carried down with rapidity yet with perfect safety when guided by a skilful hand. Glancing towards your right you behold the venerable ruins of Castle Troy, the ancient walls of which rise to a great height from a foundation which seems to have been sunk in the river's bed. You next reach the demesne of the late and last Earl of Clare, Mountshannon, which reaches for more than a mile along the right bank of the river, and which unfolds its varied beauties as you proceed. The Falls of Doonass next pre- sent themselves (see page 245). On the left is Doonass House, the ancient seat of Sir Hugh Dillon Massey, Bart, THE SHANNON. 235 and on the riglit, Hermitage, the residence of Lord Massey The view here is very fine. A little further on and yon arrive at the village of Castle Connell (see page 243). Be- sides the attractions of the spa, the village is much frequented in the angling season by salmon-fishers. SHORT EXCURSION FROM LIMERICK DOW.V THE SHANNON. Although the steamers direct from Limerick to Kilrush, 48 miles, have been lately bought ofi" by the Eailway Company, it is to be hoped that they will soon be started again ; and therefore we shall describe that part of the river above Foynes formerly traversed by the steamer. The village of Foynes, w^hich is situated about midway be- tween Limerick and Kilrush, is reached by rail, and there passengers are embarked on board a steamer in connection with the train, and carried across to Kilrush. Although this route is more expeditious, it is less enjoyable than the former one, as much of the river scenery is lost thereby. By starting from the quays of Limerick you pass many beautiful demesnes. On the left, or county Limerick side, the residence of the Eight Honourable Colonel Mon- sell, M.P., at the extremity of whose property stands the venerable ruin of Carrig o'Gunnel, anglice, the Rock of the Candle. From the summit of this rocky eminence there is a magnificent prospect, commanding the river, with its numerous islands, and the surrounding country for many miles. Further on, the seat of the Wallers of Castletown, and Bushy Island — on which a private lunatic asylum has been established by Dr. Peppard — Scarlet Tower and Beigh Castle, are prominent objects in the middle of the river ; the former seven miles and the latter eighteen from the city. They are erected to warn mariners to keep a civil distance from the rocks upon which they stand. On the Clare side, nearly opposite Mr. Monsell's residence, are the extensive woods of Cratloe covering the mountain's side ; 236 LIMERICK. also tlie castles of Cratloe, and further on tliat of Bunratty, still habitable, and at present used by the constabulary as a barrack. Passengers going by rail to Kilrusb via Foynes, come first to Patrick's Well. Three miles further on to Adare, a neat little village adjoining Adare Manor the seat of the Earl of Dimraven. This residence contains much which is worthy of a visit. There is a very complete pic- ture gallery, whilst the demesne is studded with monastic ruins of much antiquarian interest. The next station on the line is Eathkeale, and then Askeaton, famous for the ruins of its abbey. You next arrive at Foynes (see page 215), the residence (at Mount Trenchard) of the late Lord Monteagle. Here passengers for Kilrush and Kilkee (page 213) take the steamer. ' River of billows I to whose mighty heart The tide wave rushes of the Atlantic Sea— River of quiet depths I by cultured lea, Romantic wood or city's crowded mart — River of old poetic founts I that start From their lone mountain cradles, wild and free, Nursed with the fawns, lull'd by the woodlark's glee. And cushat's hymeneal song apart I — River of chieftains, whose baronial halls, Like veteran warders watch each wave-worn steep, Portumna's towers. Bun ratty 's regal waUs, Carrick's stern rock, the Geraldine's grey keep — Eiver of dark mementoes— must I close Xy lips with Limerick's wrongs— with Anghrim's woes ? 237 EXCURSION TO THE BURREN OF GLARE AND THE CLIFFS OF MOHER. The northern part of the county of Clare is out of the ordinary traveller's route, but it is well worthy of a visit. That part of it which forms the Barony of Burren is per- haps one of the most singular districts in the British Islands, and particularly interesting to the geologist. The coast of Clare is everywhere picturesque. A drive of 1 8 miles due west from Ennis takes the traveller across a dreary country to !Miltown Malbay, two miles beyond which is the Atlantic Hotel, a large rambling house on the shore of a small bay, where good accommodation is to be procured in the summer. About 8 miles north of that, at the head of Liscannor Bay, is the little village of Lehinch, much frequented during the summer as a sea-bathing place by the inhabi- tants of the neighbourhood. The little tovm. of Ennis- timon is about 2 miles in the interior from Lehinch. Eight miles north of Ennistimon, among some wild barren hills, is the rising spa of Lisdoonvarna, where there are two good hotels. One or two little brooks have worn their way down through the hard, black, coal-measuie shales to the surface of the limestone below, and formed some picturesque little dells, in one of which are two spa wells, one a chalybeate and the other a sulphur spring. These have also a local celebrity, and are a good deal fre- quented in the summer. The country about is dreary enough, consisting of heathery moorlands of a height of 400 or 500 feet above the sea, rising in one part, called Slieve Elva, to 1080 feet. About 6 or 7 miles to the westward of Ennistimon and Lisdoonvarna, however, is the promontory of Hags Head, the central part of which exhibits some of the grandest cliffs in Ireland. These are the well known Cliffs of Moher, which extend for two or three miles in length, and rise at one part to a height of 668 feet above the sea as an 238 LIMEKICK TO THE BURR EN OF CLARE. absolutely vertical wall. By the liberality of Mr. O'Brien of Birchfield House some of the most commanding sjDots for a view have been walled and fenced, so that the visitor may lean over them in security and look down upon the waves 650 feet below him. One or two projecting crags rise haK way up from the water, forming the roosting-place of innumerable sea birds, the flocks of which seem like swarms of bees as one looks down on them. About a mile north of the highest point a narrow wind- ing path gives access in fine weather to the foot of this huge wall ; and it is difficult to say which is the nobler prospect, the one looking up to the great pile of horizontal beds thus eaten into by the waves of the Atlantic, or the one from the summit over so many miles of its level waters, with the Isles of Arran spread like a map midway between the spectator and the distant mountains of Conne- mara. From Lisdoonvaima a drive of about 10 miles reaches the village of Ballyvaglian on the shores of Galway Bay, where some accommodation may be got at a small hotel kept by Mr. MacNamara, who has two sitting and three or four bedrooms. Should it be preferred, a drive of 16 or 17 miles wdll take the visitor along the shores of the At- lantic from Lisdoonvarna round Blackhead to Ballyvaghan. From Ballyvaghan it is 14 miles to Corrofin, which is 8 miles from Ennis ; while it is about 12 miles from Ballyvaghan to Kinvarra, which is six miles from Gort, or about 12 from Oranmore on the Dublin and Galway Rail- way, i A " hooker" also plies across Galway Bay, from Bally- | vaghan to Galway^ every other day ; and, when wind and weather are favourable, makes the passage in a couple of hours. To the north of Lisdoonvarna the ground rises gradually in till it attains a height of from 800 to 1000 feet above the I 8ta, and It is composed entirely of bare limestone rock of! LIMERICK TO THE BURREN OF CLARE. 239 a pale grey colour. This is the carboniferous limestone of geologists ; the beds rise very gently from beneath the coal-measure shales which make so large a part of the county of Clare, and end in steep slopes looking down upon Galway Bay. Black Head, forming one of these slopes, is 1040 feet high. Deep valleys penetrate this high limestone ground, both from Galway Bay ou the north, and from the low country on the east, towards which a line of lofty cliffs looks down, like those on the north, and extending in a wavy line from near Kinvarra to near Corrofin. Glen Columbkile is the most remarkable of these valleys on the east side of the Burren high land. What makes these valleys so remarkable is the barrenness of the limestone rocks which surround them. They look like vast artificial amphitheatres, rising in regular steps and terraces of stone, receding here and advancing there, till the long parallel lines of stratification fade away in the blue haze of the distance. The isolated hills are like great fortifications surrounded by regular bastions and walls rising one above another, till each terminates in a small citadel crowning the summit of the hill. The light grey of the nearer hiUs fades into purple in the distance ; and should a stray sunbeam strike through the clouds on some remoter promontory, it gleams out like a marble building, with all the effect of some magnificent architec- ture. Even on the plateaus of the hill summits, or the flats of the lower grounds, the strangeness of the scenery is not destroyed ; for the horizontal beds are traversed in several directions by sets of parallel vertical joints, which have been widened by the weather into open fissures often several inches, and sometimes a foot or two, in T\idth, and several feet deep. These are lined with the most splendid ferns and other plants ; the delicate maiden-hair fern being found here as well as on the Arran Islands, together with scv^eral other species of plants very rarely to be met with in other parts of the British Islands. 240 LIMERICK TO GALWAY. There are few districts in Ireland where the geologist will derive more pleasure than in strolling along the lime- stone cliffs of Clare. The undermining action of the sea on the calcareous beds is beautifully exemplified in the numerous caverns which wiR be found more particularly around Loop Head. " During gales of wind," says the late Mr. Jukes, " vast volumes of water are poured suddenly into these narrow caverns, and rolling on, com- press the air at their further end Into every joint and pore of the rock above; and then, as suddenly receding, suck both air and water back again with such force, as sometimes to loosen some part of the roof. Working in this way the sea gradually forms a passage for itself to the sur- face above ; and if that be not too lofty, forms a * blow-hole,' through which the spouts of foam and spray are occasionally ejected high into the air. *' On a late visit to the promontory of Loop Head I was shown consider- able blocks of rock that had been blown into the air on the formation of one of these puffing-holes ; and also large holes were pointed out that opened down into cavernous gullies that lead from one cove to another, behind bold headlands, showing the commencement of the process by which he«id- lands are converted into islands." KOUTE FROM LIMERICK to GALWAY, through ENNIS AJifD GORT. [By Rail vid Athenry Junction.] The railroad crosses the river Shannon a little above Limerick, and enters the County Clare, through which at least one-half of our route lies. Before long we skirt on the right the woods of Gratloe, interesting as a portion of the extensive natural forests which formerly existed in this district. ifiNNlb. 241 Bunratiy Castle, now a police station, was the feudal seat of the De Clares in the thirteenth century, and subse- quently of the Lords of Thomond. A modern mansion is situated in the neighbouring demesne. Newmarket-on-Fergu8, the next station on the route, is a small village, with several seats in the \dcinity. One of these is Carrigoran House, the mansion of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart. Proceeding northward, we pass Dromo- land House, the beautiful modern mansion of Lord Inchiquin. The fine ruin of Quin Abbey is little more than three miles east from Dromoland. "It is romantic, and presents a good portrait of monastic times, with some sombre clois- ters, private passages, ruined chapels, ancient monuments, and sainted statues." Clare Castle is an insignificant town, well situated on the river Fergus. Mr. Inglis justly remarks that this, in- stead of Ennis, ought to have been the county town. The castle is now used as a barrack. Clare Alhey lies on the way to Ennis. It was founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Limerick, for Augus- tinian canons regular. Ennis, formerly called Clanroad, is the assize town Here anciently resided the O'Briens, Chiefs of Thomond. " The holder of this chiefry having, in the reign of Henry VIIL, laid down his title of O'Brien, and received that of Earl of Thomond, his indignant followers and liege-men set his dwelling on fire, and would have burned himself in the flames, but for the interference of MacClanchy, the chief-justice of the native Irish" in North Munster." Though by no means a fine town, there are some good buildings in Ennis. The parish church, formed out of the ruins of a Franciscan abbey founded in 1240, the Roman Catholic chapel, the court-house, a nuimery, and several meeting- houses, are the principal. In the immediate vicinity is a college or school, on the foundation of Erasmus SmitL 242- LIMEKICK TO GALWAT. Leaving Ennis we pass on our left the ruins of Drom- cliffe, consisting of a portion of a round tower, and a dila- pidated cliurcli ; and on our right Inchicronan Lough, on the margin of which are situated the ruins of an abbey founded in the twelfth century by King Donald O'Brien. Further on is Crusheen village ; soon after we cross the boundary of the County Clare, and enter Gal way. After passing Loughcooter Castle, now the seat of Lord Gough, we arrive at the town of Govt J a small thriving town, with a workhouse, barrack, several places of worship, and two small hotels. Kilmacduagh (3 miles S.W. of Gort) is celebrated on account of its round tower and " seven churches ;" though very little of the oratories remain. The tower leans con- siderably — so much, it is said, as 17|- feet. Kilcolgan, on a deep inlet of Galway Bay, has the ruins of a castle. Tyrone House, the seat of .Christopher St. George, Esq., is a prominent object in the neighbourhood. Athenry, where we join the Midland Great-Western Kailway, is an interesting old town, once surrounded by walls, now in ruins. Proceeding westwards, we soon pass Oranmore Station, and reach Galway (p. 263). _E! 243 LIMERICK TO ATHLOXE, BY THE MIDDLE SHANNON. Railroad to Killaloe, thence per -water or caT. This route, however agreeable, is more for the pedestrian, or the traTellei who does not grudge car and boat hire. Lough Dearg ; Palace of Kincora ; Deny Castle. Inis Cealtra, or Holy Island ; 5eren Churches ; Round Tower ; Tombs ; .S^. Patrick's Purgatory ; Castle Lough ; Carra Kennedy ; Drumineer ; Williamstown ; Ferryglass Ruins ; Monastery of Tirdaglass ; Portumna ; Castle in Ruins; Leave Lougl? Dearg ; Banagher ; Swivel Bridge ; Garry Castle ; Grand Canal. Clon* macnoise ; Seven Churches; Cathedral; Temple Ri; Temple Connor; Two Round Towers ; St. Kiaran's Oratory ; Sculptured Cross ; Charmed Stone. Athlone ; Castle; Barrack; Railway Bridge. We have designated that portion of the river lying be- tween Limerick and Athlone the Middle Shannon, though it is more frequently styled Upper. Our reason is obvious ; we wish to embrace hereafter that interesting section of the river lying above Athlone, and to which we may more justly apply the title of Upper Shannon. The generally recognised route between Limerick and Athlone is by railroad to Killaloe, and from thence by water. To such as desire to visit the celebrated Falls of Doonass, near Castle Connell, it might be suggested to leave the railway here, where a by-road branches off, and proceed the rest of the journey on foot, reaching Killaloe in the evening, where the tourist will find a moderate inn. The walk will not much exceed ten miles. A branch line from the Limerick and Waterford rail- road, connecting the former city with Nenagh and Eoscrea, will take us in half an hour to CASTLE CORNELL (The Shannon Hotel) owes it^ name and interest to an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, erected at a very early period. The extensive ruins are still conspicuous on the top of a Iiigh and solitary rock above the river. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe 244 LIMERICK TO ATHLONK. having invited the Prince of Thomond to this castle, wan surprised by the army of the latter, artfully concealed be- side the river, and his eyes being put out, was afterwards murdered by order of his cruel guest. The Eed Earl of Ulster, Eichard de Burgho, afterwards held the castle. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days. The Prince of Hesse commanded the attack. Like most other castles which fell into the Hano- verian hands at the period, it was blown up with gun- powder. Huge masses of stone and lime disfigure the face of the rock, and attest the force of the explosion. There is a fine chalybeate spa in the vicinity of the village, which is much frequented by the citizens of Limerick, both to drink the waters of the spa, and on Sundays and holidays to enjoy the beauties of the scenery. " After spending a day in its neighbourhood," says Inglis, " I began to enter- tain serious doubts whether even Killarney itself sur- passed in beauty the scenery around Castle Connell." The water is said to be highly ferruginous and saline. O'Brien's Bridge is a very ancient bridge, which crosses the Shannon a short distance from Castle Connell, though, from the numerous alterations and repairs which have taken place on it, very little of the original structure can now be standing. In 1556, it was in a great measure destroyed by the Earl of Ormond ; and the subsequent repairs have nearly obliterated aU claims to greater antiquity. It bears, however, so much of the venerable in its aspect, that we might almost fancy it the identical bridge on which so many bloody encounters have taken place. We have now crossed the Shannon, and entered the county Clare,* and continue our walk or drive without passing anything of Etirring interest, until we arrive at * The county Clare covers an area of 827,994 statute acres. 18,655 acres are occupied by lakes, 259,684 by mountain and bog, and the remainder la under cultivation. The population in 1861 was 166,305, It sends three members to Parliament, being two for the county, and one for Ennis, the assize town. The islands of Arran, lying across the mouth of Gal way Baj. belong to Clure, THE PALLS OR RAPIDS OP D00NAS8. 245 THE FALLS OR RAPIDS OF DOONASS, situated in a luxuriant wood, the rocks and distant meadows being rich in colouring. The Shannon is here, for more than a quarter of a mile, almost a cataract ; and this to an Eng- lish eye must be particularly striking. " It is only in the streams and rivnlets of England that rapids are found ; the larger rivers generally glide smoothly on, without impedi- ment from rocks. The Thames, Trent, Mersey, and Severn, when they lose the character of streams and became rivers, hold a noiseless course ; but the Shannon, larger than all the four, here pours an immense body of water — which above the rapids is 40 feet deep, and 300 yards wide — through and above a congregation of huge rocks, which ex- tend nearly half a mile, and offers not only an unusual scene, but a spectacle approaching much nearer the sub- Lime than any moderate-sized stream can offer, even in its highest cascade." N. R Willis, after pointing out a few of the American features of the Shannon, says, "There is no point very strikingly picturesque, however, till we reach the ruined castle* of the Kings of Mimster, the warlike O'Briens, and here the Shannon for a considerable distance resembles the rapids of St. LaT\Tence." To one who h?ii been accustomed to look on the imbroken surfaces of such rivers as the " muddy Thames," the Clyde, Tay, or Forth, nothing can be more perplexing at first sight than a river, mighty as any in Britain, rolling and tumbling in wild confusion over a series of rugged, rude, and waterworn rocks. " At the Rapids of Dooxass, as they are called," adds Willis, " the whole body of the Shannon pours over a mass of rocks, descending considerably for half a mile, and into this picture comes the town of Castle Connell, with its fine mansions, green lawns, and lofty towers, which adds much to the natural beauty of the river." KILLALOE [Royal Hotel], though a favourite angling station, is an iminteresting town, the cathedral of which * Castle Connell. 246 UMEBICK TO ATHLONE. is its chief attiactioiL The present cathedral, built in the form of a cross, with a heavy donjon-like tower in the centre, is referred to the twelfth century. The tomb of O'Brien, erroneously so called, is a Norman arch, with cheyron ornaments, originally a doorway, but subsequently built up. The remainder of the building is undoubtedly belonging to the Grothic period. St. Molua's Church, an adjoining edifice, was venerable at the time of the erection of the cathedral The town, which contains a good ion, is dependent on the fisheries and slate quarries in the neigh- bourhood. The quantity of slates annually raised is said to average about a million tons. A curious old bridge of twelve arches crosses the Shannon, forming a beautiful object in the landscape looking down the river from the piet. From Killaloe a boat may be had, and a pleasant day's excursion made up the river to LOUGH DEEG, the largest lake *In the whole course of the Shannon, twenty- three miles long, and varying from two to six in breadth. The depth is considerable ; close to the shore there is mostly from ten to fifteen feet water, sometimes as much as forty feet, and in mid channel the average depth of the lake is from seventy to eighty feet The lough contains many islands which serve to diversify its surface, but still leaving many scenes of unbroken sea- like expanse. " At its lower extremity, and indeed during a large part of its course, it is bordered by magnificent mountains ; and those in the vicinity of Killaloe, before the lake opens into its greater width, constitute, with the waters they shelter and enclose, one of the grandest and most beautiful views in Ireland. There is nothing in the Lower Shannon in any way comparable to this scene, which of itself will well repay the traveller for any circuitous - ness in the journey he may make to see it, and compensate for any tameness which may greet him in his subsequent course."* Having passed the moimd where of yore stood * Forbes' *' Memorandnms in IrelaDdL" IXIS CEALTRA, 247 Brian Boroimhe's palace of Kincora, we soon notice on a little island on the right the mined castle of Derry peep- ing over the trees. Derry Castle has little, besides the picturesque effect pro- duced by its position, to recommend it. Inis Cealtra, or Holy Island, is next passed- This island, which occupies about thirty acres, was the home of St. Camin, who, in the beginning of the seventh century, founded a monastery here. There are said to be ruins of seven churches, the most perfect of which is ascribed to Brian Boroimhe, who is believed to have rebuilt the edifices destroyed by the Danes in 834. The island contains a round tower, and an ancient cemetery, some of the tombs in which much resemble those of the chiefs on the island of lona. The Irish have a tradition that the entrance to purgatory was from an island situated in Lough Derg in Donegal, which is not to be confounded with this Shannon lake of the same name. The country, for the remainder of the sail to Portumna^ is eminently beautiful, and rendered interesting by the remains of Castle Lough, Garra Kennedy, and Druniineer — the latter a stronghold of the O'Briens — and other objects of attraction. There is a station at Drumineer, and here the Shannon is at its widest, being thirteen miles across to Scariff. From this point we have a view of the De\Ti'3 Bit moimtain, so called from the curious notch in its outline. It is said that this was done by the devil, who bit a piece off the moun- tain, but finding the morsel too hard for his digestion, threw it up at Cashel inTipperary, where it is known as the **Rock of Cashel." It is also as- serted that the Rock of Cashel would just fit into the space bitten by the de\'iL WilUamstowii is the next station. It is much frequented by fishing parties. It is said to be without exception the best spot on the Shannon for angling. Pike weighing 40 lb. are reported to have been caught, and perch are plen- tifuL The Shannon gradually narrows now, and the beau- tiful bays and indentations on its margin give variety to 248 LIMERICK TO ATHLONB. every view. The ruins of Terryglass, defended by circular towers and watcliful loopholes, appear on the right, and the deserted monastery of Tirdaglass not far off. The latter was founded by St. Columb, and occasionally afforded rich spoil to the Danish plunderers. We have now left the mountains and the lake, whose broad swell is contracted into a river once more, bounded on each side by fertile meadows. At the outlet of the lake stand the ruins of Fortumna Castle, once the finest residence west of the Shannon, containing, in addition to a handsome furnishing, many valuable works of art, but accidentally destroyed by fire in 1826. It was the property of the Marquess of Clanricarde, proprietor of the town, whose fine demesne extends for two miles along the river. Lord Avonmore's pro- perty on the left is well wooded, and the mansion is curious. PORTIIMNA is the next station. The town, though once of more importance, is now a poor place ; considerable fairs, however, are held. For a long time the monks of the Cistercian abbey of Dunbrody in Wexford had a chapel dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul at Portumna. " O'Mad- den, the dynast of the country, gave it to the Dominican friars, who, with the approbation of the monks oi Dunbrody, erected a friary here, and a church, which they dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and the original patron saints ; at tlie same time they built a steeple, and all other necessary ofiices. Pope Martin Y. granted a bull to confirm their possessions, dated 8th October 1426. The walls are still nearly entire, and show that the monastery of Portumna was by no means an ignoble structure.'^ The unlucky council presided over by the Earl of Strafford, convened for the purpose of establishing his majesty's claim to the forfeited estates in Connaught, held its sitting in Portumna Castle, and there refused the royal demands, for which they were sent under escort of the Sheriff to Dublin as prisoners. We have now fairly left Loch Derg, and are once more BANAGHER. 249 on a river flowiDg placidly all the way to AtUone through a country that ia " sometimes tame, sometimes ugly, not seldom beautiful, but never either grand or picturesque. The river itself, however, may be said to be always grand in its display of tranquil power." A few miles above Portumna the Shannon was almost unnavigable, until the Commissioners deepened the bed of the river. In these operations, a number of very interesting pre-historic relics were brought to light. In the greatest depths, stone hat- chets were found, evidently indicating a very early state of society. In a stratum overlying this were bronze spears and Bwords ; a still newer deposit contained implements of iron, as swords and spear-heads ; and in the strata nearest the surface more modern implements, among which were anti- quated firelocks. Banagher has a swivel bridge, wdth six arches across the Shannon. Until a very recent period, a very old-fashioned bridge crossed the river at this point. It was probably one of the oldest bridges in the country. Not far from the town are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the MacCoghlan family, the last representative of which died little more than haK a century ago. He has been regarded as the " last Irish Chief." " He was a handsome man ; gallant, eccentric, proud, satirical, hospi- table in the extreme, and of expensive habits. In the disdain of modem times, he adhered to the national customs of Ireland, and the modes of living practised by his ancestors. His house was ever open to strangers ; his tenants held their lands at will, and paid their rents according to the ancient fashion, partly in kind, and partly in money. The ' * Mogh " or Maw, — ^for this was the appellation of pre-eminence among the MacCoghlans — levied the fines of Mortmain when a vassal died, and became heir to the defunct farmer. It must be observed, however, that most commonly the Maw's commands, enforced by the impressive application of his horsewhip, instantly decided a litigated point." We soon pass the Grand Canal, and the meeting of the thi-ee counties, King's, Gal way, and Roscommon, at Shannon Bridge, and then a sail of a few miles discloses to the right the celebrated 250 LiMERICK TO ATHLONE. CLONMACNOISE, with its two Eound Towers and Seven Cliurclies. In order to pay a visit to the spot, it will be necessary to continue on to Athlone, and then come back by the road, a distance of twelve miles, or land at Shannon Bridge, and walking on to Clonmacnoise, about four miles. The situation of the Seven Churches is even more desolate than that of the ruins of Glendalough. On a wild and dreary piece of grass land on the borders of a river, which here is sluggish, and anything but inviting, stand the time-worn relics of the age of early Christianity in Ireland. The site of the churches was originally called Bruim Tippraild, and was granted by Dermot MacCervail, monarch of Ireland, to St. Kiaran, who founded a seat of learning there in 548. ** This foundation," writes Wills, *'was afterwards enlarged by several additions in diflferent periods. The piety, or pride, of kings and princes, added nine churches for the sepulchre of their remains, all within the same enclosure, and within the small space of two acres. Of these churches, one called Temple Ri was built by O'Molaghlin, king of Meath, and to this day is the burial-place of his family ; Temple-Connor, by O'Conner Dun ; another by O'Kelly and Macarthy More; another by MacDermot." St. Kiaran, dying in 549, left the work of his foundation in its infancy. The modem name of Clonmacnoise is derived from the Irish Cluain-Tnac-noise, signif jing the "retreat of the sons of nobles." **It continued long the see of the ancient bishopric, till the middle of the sixteentli century, Miien the bishop- ric was united to that of Meath, and the place reduced to the rank of a parish. During this long interval, it passed through various changes of fate, having, in common with the other ecclesiastical foundations of this country, suffered more or less from all the various disastrous revolutions of which it has been the subject almost from the beginning of its history. In 1201 the work of dilapidation may be said to have commenced, by a sack which it underwent from the English leader Meiler Fitz-Henry, after which there was little intermission from violence, while there was anything to b^ preserved from the violence incidental to war in its most destructive form. The interval which succeeded was one in which the ancient foundations of the island, deprived of their use and indwellers, were abandoned to the slower working, but not less efficient ravage of time." It is impossible by description to afford an adequate idea of the lowly ruins, the towers, and inscribed tombs, without going into greater detail than our limits will permit There are two round towers, one commonly termed the C LONM ACN OiSB. 251 " Great Tower," or " O'Ruark's Tower," wkioh has eight apertures at the top — the usual number being four — and is ninety feet in height. Near this are the remains of the " Great Church," or cathedral, a structure displaying several forms of Gothic architecture. It is now a tottering ruin. Not far from this is the stone on which St. Ej.aran sat, and on which it is believed his spirit still sits to cure the diseases of pilgrims to the churches. The church of St. Kiaran, as it is termed, is a small oratory, so small indeed that " a tall man could scarcely lie at length in it : a mason would have contracted to build its walls for a week's wages." The belief is, that the saint was buried within this little chapel, and the disgusting practice of digging and tearing the ground for a morsel of clay to dissolve in their drinks, as a " sovereign remedy against diseases of all sorts," is still continued among the more Ignorant of the neighbouring inhabitants. The western and northern entrances are peculiarly beautiful when con- trasted with the rude masses of masonry surroundiug them. " The northern doorway>" says Caesar Otway, ** is executed in blue limestone* — marble it may be called — and the elaborate tracery, on which the whole fancy and vagary of Gothic license is lavished, stands forth as sharp, fresh, and clean, as if but yesterday from under the chiseL Amongst other ornaments of this highly-finished doorway, are figures in alto-relievo, one evidently of a bishop giving his blessing, the other of an abbot, the third is much mutilated, and that apparently done on purpose." The same able writer, Lu speaking of the general appearance of the place, says — " Here is the largest enclosure of tombs and churches I have anywhere seen in Ireland ; what a mixture of old and new graves ! Modem inscrip- tions recording the death and virtues of sons of little men, the rude fore- fathers of the surrounding hamlets ; ancient inscriptions in the oldest forms of Irish letters, recording the deeds and hopes of kings, bishops, and abbots, buried a thousand years ago, lying about broken, neglected, and dishonoured — what would I give could I have deciphered ! I should have been glad had time allowed to have been permitted to transcribe them." The sculptiire»3 * Mountain limestone, identical with Derbyshire marble. 252 LIMERICK TO ATHLONB. cross which stands near the door of MacDermot's Church is, if not equal to that at Monasterboice, only second to it in Ireland. Hams thus remarks on the associations of the spot : — " Before the west and north door of Mac- Dermot's Church stood a large old-fashioned cross or monument, much injured by time, on which was an inscription in antique characters, which nobody that I could hear of could read. The west and north doors of this church, although but mean and low, are guarded about with fine wrought small marble pillars, curiously hewn. Another of the churches hath an arch of greenish marble, flat wrought and neatly hewn and polished, and the joints so close and even set, that the whole arch seems but one entire stone, as smooth as either glass or crystal. The memory of St. Kiaran is yet fresh and precious in the minds of the neighbouring inhabitants, inas- much that they make no scruple in joining his name with God's, both m blessing and cursing. ' God and St. Kiaran after you,' is a common impre- cation when they think themselves injured. In the great church was here- tofore preserved a piece of the bone of St. Kiaran's hands as a sacred relic. The 9th of September is annually observed as the patron day of this saint, and great numbers from all parts flock to Clonmacnoise in devotion and pilgrimage." Speaking of the sites selected by tlie pious saints of old for their retreats, Caesar Otway adds — " What a dreary place is Glendalough ! what a lonely isle is Inniscaltra ! what a hideous place is Patrick's Purgatory ! what a deso- late spot is Clonmacnoise ! From the hill of Bentullagh, on which we now stood, the numerous churches, the two round towers, the curiously overhanging bastion of O'Me- laghlin's Castle, all before us to the south, and rising in relief from the dreary sameness of the surrounding red bogs, presented such a picture of tottering ruins and en- compassing desolation as I am sure few places in Europe could parallel." But this appears now rather overdrawn. Passing the Seven Churches of Clonmacnoise on the right, also .leaving behind a pile of stones in the middle of the river marking the union of the three counties — King's, Westmeath, and Eoscommon — we arrive at ATHLONE [Hotels: The Prince of Wales. The Royal] This town is an important military station, and is pos- sessed of considerable advantages as respects river commu- nication, which has been greatly improved of late years. It is one of the few towns in Ireland that has not decreased ATHLONE. 253 in population within the last decennial period. Athlon e is conveniently situated for a tourist's station, on both sides of the Shannon, and the most central town of importance in Ireland. Auburn and Clonmacnoise are best visited from it, and after exhausting the riches of the Vale of the Shannon, a railway ride of little more than two hours' duration conducts the traveller to Galway, the key to the west. The castle is a heavy building, very old, and very strong. It is still used as a barrack, although a newer mass of buildings beside it con- tains the bulk of the garrison. The barracks are capable of accommodating 1500 soldiers, including cavalry, infan- try, and artillery. There is a collection of 15,000 stand of arms. '^ On the corner of the castle w^all was a tower, founded by K^ng John, on a parcel of land belonging to St. Peter's Abbey. It was built on a high raised round hni, resembling an ancient fort or ^rath. On the side of the castle that faced the river there were apartments which served for the residence of the Lord President of Con- naught, and governor of the castle. The middle tower was for the repository of warlike provisions." For a year after the battle of the Boyne, the town held out for James. General de Ginkle at last reduced it after a siege of ten days, but not until he had expended 1200 cannon balls, 50 tons of gunpowder, and 600 shells, besides a large quantity of stone shot. Athlone is strongly fortified and was always a place of importance in a military point of view, as guarding the pass from Leinster into Connaught, and on account of its central position. In order to extend its utility, a branch railway is now constructed from this town to Templemore on the Great Southern and Western Railway, which will place Athlone in direct communication with the South of Ireland. The railway bridge across the Shannon, erected by Mr. Hemans, is justly styled one of the finest and most beautiful works along the line of the Midland Great Western Railway. There is also a magni- ficent stone bridge over the Shannon, which was opened 254 ATHIiONE TO CARRICK-ON-SHANNOIT. for traffic in 1844. Tlie ancient bridge, but lately taken down, conducted from the County Westmeath in the pro- vince of Leinster, to Roscommon in Connaught, a different country, with habits, peculiarities, and prejudices entirely its own. Seward, writing in 1789, says — " The counties are here united by a bridge, in the middle of which was erected a fair monument, with some figures well cut in marble, together with Queen Elizabeth's escutcheon of arms, and some inscriptions declaring the time and the founders of the building." The town, which contains a population of 6000 inhabitants, returns one member to Parliament. Between the station and the town will be seen a Roman Catholic chapel with a handsome tower. It was erected for the very moderate sum of £6000, exclu- sive of the internal fittings. Excursion from Athlone to Auburn, see p. 260. ATHLONE TO CAERICK-ON-SHANNON, BY THE UPPER SHANNON. Steamers leave Athlone for Carrick-on-Sliannon every second day. Lough Ree ; Inis-More ; Inis-Turk ; Hare Island ; Church Island ; Ruins ; Randown Castle ; Roscommon ; Abbey ; Tomb of O'Connor ; Castle ; Lanesborough ; Termonbarry; Royal Csmal. KilbaTTj; Seven ChurcTies; Lough Bodarrig ; Jamestown ; James' Heap. Carrick-on-Shannon. From Athlone the tourist may conveniently proceed in a northerly direction for Carrick-on-Shannon. It must not be disguised from the tourist that he has already seen the finest portions of the Shannon, although it would be a libel on the beautiful to say that there is nothing worth visiting on the Shannon north of Athlone. The river Shannon is properly described as a large estuary, resem- bling an arm of the sea and two extensive lakes, all joined by a devious river, now narrow and contracted, and anon widening and twisting into innumerable baylets and lake- lets. The estuary has already been described as a portion of the Lower Shannon, and Lough Derg as the principal feature of the Middle Shannon, and now, about a mile and LOUGH REE. 255 a half after leaving Athlone, we enter tlie remaining lake, and through it reach an interesting portion of the river lying between the comities Leitrim and Eoscommon. LOUGH EEE, a smaller lake than Lough Derg, being but seventeen miles in length, and nowhere exceeding seven in width, is situated in three counties, Eoscommon, Long- ford, and Westmeath. This lake was formerly called " Lough Eibh," and sometimes " Great Lough Allen." The tourist who has time to navigate this lake in an oared boat will be well rewarded for his pains. He should en- gage a boat with rowers at Athlone, and, carrying a supply of provisions for the day, take the lake leisurely. The many promontories, bays, and creeks, will furnish an ever- increasing pleasure. The steamer can be joined at any convenient station on the lake. The hour of sailing, as well as the time of calling at different stations, may be learned from the time-tables. It might even be well to pull up as far as Lanesborough, and, spending the night in Eoscommon, take the boat next morning for Carrick- on-Shannon. The islands are not numerous, though some of them are very beautiful. Their names are Church Island, Inis-Clothran or Quaker Island, Inis-More, Inis- Turk, Hare Island, etc. On the first mentioned are some very old ecclesiastical ruins. So early as 751 there were vessels upon this lake. O'Dono van's translation of the Annals of the Four Masters contains the following note, under the year 751 : — " The ship\\Teck of Dealhhna-Nuad- hat on Lough Eibh, with their lord Duimasach, of which it said, ' Thrice nine vessels and three of Gamhawraighe of Lough Eibh, there escaped of them with life, except alone the crew of one vessel.' " From the same source we learn that in 1137 there was a fleet of 130 vessels upon the lake. Eegattas are held usually every August. Randovm Castle is about eight miles from Athlone, on the left bank of the lake. The Celtic name of this castle, from which the modern appellation is derived, is Rinri' 256 ATHLONE TO CARRICK-ON-SHANNON". Duin^ signifying the " point of the fort." Mr. Weld thiis describes the castle in his survey of Eoscommon : — " The castle is built in the form of a P, the tail of the letter being short in proportion, and occupied by a spacious apartment for banqueting or assembly. The keep, as be- held both from the land side and from the lake, presents a very imposing mass, its outer walls being entire, and its great tower rising to a very considerable elevation ; but the edifice on the land side appears almost shapeless, owing to the extraordinary luxuriance of ivy with which it is over- run, originating from two vast platted stems which spring up over the base of the walls, just over the long fosse." The fortress was originally defended by a wall 1G92 feet long, carried right across the peninsula on which the castle stands. There is a very perfect gateway in the middle of this wall. The Shannon lakes are seldom or never frozen over. One memorable instance, however, is said to have occurred in 1156, in the reign of Eoderick O'Connor, monarch of Ireland. The Annals already referred to teD us that ^' There occurred a great fall of snow, and a frost, in the winter of this year, so that the lakes and rivers of Ireland were frozen over. The frost was so great that Roderick O'Connor was enabled to have his ships and boats carried on the ice from Blein Gaille to Rinn-Duin." ROSCOMjVION is about eight miles from the lake, on the left. The town has not much to recommend it, but the ancient monastery is well worthy of minute inspection. The town returned two members to the Irish Parliament, the patronage being in the Sandford family. " This place is fortified with a castle. It is the assize town for the Co. Roscommon, and near it are the remains of a monastery of friars preachers, where a monument was erected in fine Irish marble to Feidlim O'Connor, king of Connaught, who died in 1253 He was represented surrounded by bis body-guards in their ancient dresses. This monument was, with more than savage brutality, considerably defaced some years ago by a parcel of dnrnken dragoons." * " Felim, son of Cathal Crovdearg O'Connor, the de- » Seward, 1787. ROSCOMMON CaSTLE. L'D? fender and supporter of liis own pro^Tnce, and of his friends on every side ; the expeller and plunderer of his foes ; a man full of hospitality, prowess, and renown ; the exalter of the clerical orders and men of science ; a wor- thy materies of a king of Ireland, for his nobility, personal shape, heroism, wisdom, clemency, and truth, died after the victory of [extreme] unction and' penance, in the monastery of Roscommon, which he himself had granted to God and that order." The monument represents a mailed recumbent fignre placed upon an altar tom.b, tlie sides ornamented with several compartments, in each of which stands a figure mailed and armed. Strewed about the burial-place are some portions of these compartments and the figures which adorned them. Surely the light which such relics throw upon the costumes of the ancient Irish soldiery ought to have led to their preservation and partial restoration. Roscoynmon Castle was built in 1268, when the office of justiciary of Ireland was held by John D'UfFord. There is no doubt, however, that a fortress existed there long before his time. The space enclosed by the massive walls is ex- tensive. The walls are defended at intervals by large semicircular towers. The appearance of the place may be easily imagined by those familiar with the peculiar archi- tecture of the period. The edifice is now a total ruin, although it is said that portions were habitable at the period of the Civil TVar, when they were set on fire by a party retreating after the battle of Aughrim. Laneshorough is a little town ^\'ith a fine bridge of six arches and a swivel arch, situated at the upper extremity of Lough Eee. The place receives its name from a family called Lane, who settled in it in the time of Charles II. It formerly gave title of Viscount to a family of that name, and now gives title of Earl to that of Butler Danvers. We nov leave Lough Eee. The sail from this to Ter- monbarry presents little interest or even beauty. The country is generally a wide extent of bog, abounding in remains of trees and elks. Opposite Termonbarry, the Royal Canal joins the Shannon. By this means the pro- ducts of the interior were conveyed to Dublin before the opening of railways. 258 ATHLONE TO CARRICK-ON-SHANNON. THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF KILBAERY are seen on passing a swelling of the river known as Lough Forbes. Though famous in its day as a seat of learning and piety, Kilbarry, like Glendalough and Clonmacnoise, has crumbled into ruin, and even yielded more to the spoiler than either of its contemporaries. The tradition is, that a church was erected here by St. Barry in the sixth century ; but whether the name Kilbarry, signifying the church of Barry, is the origin or result of the tradition, it is difficult to say. It is believed by many of the natives that a night passed within the walls of one of the three ruined churches is a certain cure for maladies, mental as well as physical. The friends usually light a fire, and watch the progress of the cure in the patient. The walls of the church are blackened with these fires. There exist the remains of only three churches and the foundation of a round tower. The site of the churches is in the midst of a mass of soft pulpy bog, in which a quantity of rubbish had been placed to give firmness and solidity. A road of the same material connects it with the solid ground beyond. Lough Forbes is a somewhat triangular sheet of water, surrounded by low, and often boggy land, but possessing no mean share of quiet beauty. Lough Boderg, or the lake of the red cow, in shape re- sembles the letter T, the top line being represented by the course of the river through it, and the perpendicular stroke by an arm stretching away to the west. Jamestown is a neat little village on the Leitrim side, A little way from this the forces of James 11. and William III. had a severe skirmish at a ford of the river. A heap of stones and earth, known as James' Heap, is supposed to cover the bodies of the slain. CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, so called to distinguish it from Carrick-on-Suir, is the termination of our sail Car- rick is the assize town of the County Leitrim. It was incorporated by Jan)es I. under provost, burgesses, and LIMERICK TO ADARE. 259 freemen. There are places of worship for EpiscopalianSj Roman Catholics, and Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists. There are few features, either historical or architectural, worthy of notice. The county gaol is a very good build- ing. From Carrick the tourist may return by the Shannon or by railway to Athlone. He may make an excursion to Boyle by rail, and thence to Sligo, from which he can reach Ballina by a public car which runs twice a-day, and thus enter the mountainous west at the north, or proceed to the north via Bundoran to Ballyshannon, between Done- gal Bay and Lough Erne, and thence penetrate the wilds of the County Donegal. LIMERICK TO ADARE. By railroad from Limerick. Distance eleven miles. Or by hired car, fares &± per mile ; Is. per hour. Augustinian Abbey ; Abbey of Holy Trinity ; Franciscan Abbey ; Castle of the Desmonds ; Adare Castle. Situated about eight miles from Limerick are the ruins of three abbeys, and an ancient castle of the Fitz-Geralds, which in combination afford views of great interest. Tiiat presented by the Augustinian Abbey in the foreground, the castle of the Desmonds in mid-distance, and the Fran- ciscan Abbey beyond, is peculiarly effective. The ancient name of Adare is Aith-Duir, or " the ford of oaks." The Franciscan Abbey was founded by Thomas Fitz-Maurice, seventh Earl of Kildare, and now repaired and used as the parish church ; the Augustinian Abbey, founded in 1315 by John Fitz-Thomas, first Earl of Kildare ; and the abbey of the Holy Trinity, which was also founded by the first Earl of Kildare, for the purpose of redeeming Chris- tian captives from slavery. The remains now consist of the tower, nave, and part of the choir, which the late Lord Dunraven fitted up fjr a Eoman Catholic chapel. 2eiO LISHOY OR AUBURN. The finest of all the ruins is that of the ^.ugustinian Abbey, situated within the demesne of Adare Abbey, the seat of the Earl of Dunraven, The windows present the true Gothic style without any excess of decorations. The choir is large, and fitted with stalls ; the steeple is sup- ported on an arch ; there is an aisle on the south side of the nave. To the north of the steeple are some beautiful cloisters with Gothic windows, within which, on the three sides, are corridors, and on most of these windows are escutcheons, with the English and saltire crosses, generally ranged alter- nately. These cloisters are nearly entire, and the rest of the remains are, although roofless, in good preservation. The castle was built by the Fitz-Geralds, Earls of Des- mond, to overlook the bridge across the Eiver Maige, an insignificant tributary to the Shannon. It was formerly a place of great strength, but was destroyed in the rebellion of 1641. On the opposite side of the river is Adare Abbey, the modern mansion of the Earl of Dunraven, com- manding a fine view of the ruins. EXCURSION FROM ATHLONE TO AUBURN. By hired car from Athlone. Distance eight miles. Fares 6d. per mile ; la per hour. The Ruined Parsonage; The Church; "The Three Pigeons;" The Mill ; The Hawthorn. " THE DESERTED VILLAGE."— Eight miles north of Athlone stands the modest little village of Lishoy, now known by the more poetical appellation of Auburn, the early home of the poet Goldsmith, and the reputed scene of his "Deserted Village." Goldsmith was not bom at Lishoy, as is sometimes stated, but in Pallas, a village in the County Longford, his father being at the time a poor curate and farmer. The infancy of Oliver was however spent in Lishoy, and there can be no doubt the scenes of childhood afterwards became the sources from whence he THE DESERTED VILLAGE. 261 drew the picture of " Sweet Aubum," thougli it is also true that the description which he gives of the Deserted Vil- lage is general enough in character to apply to many localities in England as well as Ireland- " Sweet Autnm ! loveliest village of the plain, Where health and plenty cheer'd the labouring swaia 5 W^here smiling spring its earliest visits paid, And parting summer's lingering blooms delay'd. Dear lovely bowers of innocence and ease, Seats of my youth, when every sport could please ; How often have I loitered o'er thy green. Where humble happiness endear'd each scene 1 How often have I paused on every charm 1 The shelter'd cot, the cultivated farm ; The never-failing brook, the busy mill ; The decent church that topp'd the neighbouring hill ; The hawthorn bush, with seats beneath the shade, For talking age, and whispering lovers made." Many of the features of the village have disappeared, and others have been replaced. " The never-failing brook, the busy mill," are still to be seen, as well as the ** Decent church that topp'd the neighbouring hflL** We cannot say of the " Three Pigeons/' " Low lies that house where nut-brown draughts inspired, Where grey-beard mirth, and smiling toil retired ; Where village statesmen talk'd with looks profound. And news much older than their ale went round." The village inn was rebuilt by Mr. Hogan. The haw- thorn is cut piece by piece, and sold to tourists, and pro- bably many a piece of thorn from far and near has been palmed off on the unwary enthusiast as the genuine article. Perhaps the most interesting of all the relics in the village is the ruined parsonage, where the Kev. Charles Goldsmith, the original of Mr. Primrose of the admired novel, the Vicar of Wakefield, brought up a large family upon s miserable pittance. 2 612 LisHo y OR a u burn. ** Near yonder copse, where once the garden smile-i^ And still where many a garden flower grows wild, There where a few torn shrubs the place disclose. The village preacher's modest mansion rose. A man he was to all the country dear, And passing rich on forty pounds a year 1 '* * Beautifully, it is said by Mr. Campbell, that * fiction in poetry is not the reverse of truth, but her soft and en- chajited resemblance ; and this ideal beauty of nature has seldom been united with so much sober fidelity as in the groups and scenery of the Deserted Village.' It is to be added, that everything in it is English, the feelings, inci- dents, descriptions, and illusions ; and that this considera- tion must save us needless trouble in seekiag to identify Sweet Auburn with Lishoy. It is quite natural that Irish enthusiasts should have found out the fence, the furze, the thorn, the decent church, the never-failing brook, the busy mill ; it was perfectly reasonable, and in the way of busi- ness, to rebuild the village inn, as Mr. Hogan did, and fix broken tea-cups in the wall, that pilgrims might not carry them away, and to christen his speculation Auburn. All this, as Sir Walter Scott has said, ^ is a pleasing tribute to the poet in the land of his fathers ;' but it is certainly no more. Such tribute as the poem itself was, its author offered to Sir Joshua Reynolds, dedicating it to him. * Set- ting interest aside,* he wrote, ' to which I never paid much attention, I must be indulged at present in following my affections. The only dedication I ever made was to my brother, because I loved him better than most other men. He is since dead. Permit me to inscribe this poem to you.*"* * life and Adventures of Oliver Goldsmith, by John Forster 263 GALWAY. Hotels.— KaUway, at tlie Station— The Hoyal. Distance from Dublin 126i miles. Rateable value of property in the town, £15,000. O'Brien's Cars and Coaches.— Galway to Clifden— Galway to Spiddle. Steamers.— Galw ay to Cong daily (Sundays excepted). Lynch Castle ; Queen's College ; Claddagh ; Salt Hill ; Bay of Galway : Islands of Arran; Hy BrysaiL In the course of our former ramlDles we have visited many towns remarkable for their antiquity, that quite justifies the Milesian superlative " ould ancient ;" but such a town, or relict of a town, as Galway, does not exist elsewhere in Ireland. *' Its situation is flat and unpicturesque, but the universality of red petticoats, and the same brilliant colour in most other articles of female dress, give a foreign aspect to the population, which prepares you some- what for the completely Italian or Spanish look of most of the streets of the town." "In Galway," writes Kohl, " the metropolis of the west, and a Hesperian colony, he (the traveller) will find a quaint ana peculiar city, with antiquities such as he will meet with nowhere else. The old town is throughout of Spanish architecture, with wide gateways, broad stairs, and ail the fantastic ornaments calculated to carry the imagination back to Granada and Valencia. Then the town, with its monks, churches, and con- vents, has a completely Catholic air ; and the population of the adjoining country have preserved something of their picturesque national costume.' From the earliest times, and especially about the four- teenth century, and until a later period, extensive trade was carried on betwixt Spain and Ireland. Galway was always one of the principal ports frequented by foreigners. The richer merchants of the town made periodical visits to Spain, and returned mth Spanish luxuries and Spanish ideas, the result of which was, that mansions in the Span- ish style arose, and were filled with Spanish furniture, while the ladies sported in their dresses the bright colouri 264 GALWAY. and light textures of Spain. It is reasonable, too, to sup- pose that in many instances Spanish servants, seamen, and even workmen, formed alliances with the natives of the soil, and thus the population became not only in dress but in blood allied to their foreign visitors. Many of the houses built for the merchant princes of Galway still remain, though in a dilapidated state, having passed into the occu- pation of the poorest inhabitants. Truly, " Galway was a famous town when its Spanish merchants were princes ; but their fine dwellings were at one time usurped and de- faced by the rabble, and little remains of the interiors to shew their ancient glory." It is probable that, besides the Spaniards, the Italians also traded with Galway, and that banks were instituted by Jews from Lombardy. Little more than fifty years ago, " the tribes of Galway " claimed to themselves the exclusive right of exercising certain civil privileges. One indignant writer* remarks that — " Those advocates of the dignity of the thirteen tribes contend that their ancestors have been the original inhabitants of Galway, and that by right of inheritance no other are entitled to derive a privilege from any grant made in favour of their predecessors. Allowing them to be the aborigines of the town, does it follow that those other names or families who since settled in Galway are entitled to no other privilege but that of occasional visitors ? " The Lynches have ever been the most numerous and important of the tribes of Galway. The name is most pro- bably aboriginal or Celtic, but it is alleged that in 1280 a person of the name from Dublin " came to Connaught, and married the daughter and heiress of Lord Marshal of Gal- way, whence all the Lynch family are descended. Some derive them from the town of Lintz, in Austria, where one of the family was governor, and defended the town against a powerful enemy whilst there was a blade of grass to be had within his reach ; and for that reason he got the trefoil * Signed Non-tribe in Button's Surs-ey of the County Galway. Dated July 1792. GALWAY. 265 as his coat-of-arms, the lynx, the best-sighted creature, for his crest, and the motto, * Guarded by its own virtue.' " The town of Galway was built in the beginning of the fourteenth century by a colony of English, and continued gradually to increase. In 1442 Edmond Lynch Fitz- Thomas, " at his own expense," erected a bridge called " The West Bridge," which has since been rebuilt. In 1462 Gorman Lynch, who held a patent to that effect, coined money in Galway."^ James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 held the office of mayor, " built the choir of St. Nicholas' Church at the west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden of Galway, about whom so much has been written. The transaction which gave him notoriety has been often described, and as frequently painted. From Button's Survey of Galway (1824) we quote a plain and unvarnished account of the incident : — ** The history of this more than Roman act of justice seems to be, that he sent his only son to Spain on some commercial affairs, who, returning with the son of his father's Spanish friend and a valuable cargo, conspired with the crew to murder and throw him overboard, and convert the pro- perty to their own use. One of the party, as providentially happens in most such cases, discovered the horrid transaction to the mayor. He tried and condemned his son to death, and appointed a day for his execution- It was imagined by liis relatives that, through their intercession, and the consideration of his being an only son, he would not proceed to put the sentence into execution. He told them to come to him on a certain day, and they should have his determination. Early on the day appointed, they found the son hanging out of one of the windows of his father's house. It was commemorated by the cross-bones in Lombard Street." The stone bearing the cross-bones was not put up for many years after the transaction- It is erected on the wail of St. Nicholas' churchyard, and bears the inacription : — 1524 Remember Death. All is vanity of vanities. It is a curious fact, that notwithstanding the maritime resources of Gal way, salt was one of the commodities imported to it from Spain, and so highly was the import prized, that John French, who was mayor in 1538, bore the distinguishing appellation of Shane ne Sallin. * These coins, of which a few examples are preserved, were " fourpence^ twopence, halfpence, and faithines. " 266 ftAJLWAY. During the last few years much improvement has taken place in the erection of modern buildings in Gal way. Large shops have been built in the main streets, and several handsome residences have been erected in the sub- urbs, among which may be noticed Lenaboy, the seat of James O'Hara, Esq., and Mount Vernon, the residence of T. M. Persse, Esq. The town, which is admirably placed in a commercial point of view, in connection with the sea, the great lakes. Lough Corrib, and Lough Mask, etc., will increase in importance. Queen^s College is a handsome Gothic structure, built of grey mountain limestone. It is quadrangular in form, the interior quadrangle being 280 feet by 200, and has an elegant cupola in the centre of the chief front facing the town. The architect of the college was Mr. J. B. Keane, and it was opened for the admission of students in October 1849. The course of instruction is much the same as at Cork. The pile of buildings known as Lynch's Castle is the finest remaining example of the Spanish-Irish struc- tures. The building is square and heavy-looking, the windows and doors, with flat tops, profusely ornamented, and the balustrade decorated with cannon-shaped gurgles. Every gateway, street, and court bear innumerable traces of ancient importance. The tourist visiting the town for the first time will concur in the remarks of Inglis : — " I had heard," writes he, " that I should find in Galway some traces of its Spanish origin, but was not prepared to find so much to remind me of that land of romance. At every second step I saw something to recal it to my recollection. I found the wide entries and broad stairs of Cadiz and Malaga ; the arched gateways, with the outer and inner railing, and court within, needing only the flower vases to emulate Seville. I found the sculptured gateways and grotesque architecture which carried the imagi- nation to the Moorish cities of Granada and Valencia. I even found the little sliding wicket for observation in one or two doors, reminding one of the secrecy, mystery, and caution observed, where gallantry and super- (rtition divide life between them." A delightful view of the harbour and spacious bay is to be had from various points along the Salthill road leading west from the town. The hiUs of Clare on the opposite TJijn ui^ADDAGH. 267 side are well seen, and constitute a fine feature in tlie picture. In clear weather the Isles of Arran are visible. Various miniature headlands aiford good prospect stations. Black marble is quarried in the neighbourhood, and, along with other varieties, fashioned into articles of ornament and use in marble works in the town. A company has been recently formed and has now extensive works in Gal way for the purpose of extracting iodine and marine salts from the sea-weed which abounds on the shores of Galway Bay. The salmon-fishery of Galway, the property of the Messrs. Ashworth is of considerable value, and will well repay a visit during the fishing season. The rod- fishing on the river Corribis supposed to be the best in Ireland. Galway returns two members to Parliament, and con- tained in 1871 a population of 13,184. A company with steamships sailing regularly to and from New York was established here, but proved unsuccessful. THE CLADDAGrH is a portion of Galway situated on the harbour, inhabited by a hardy race of people, princi- pally fishermen, quite distinct from the other inhabitants of the town. The population of the Claddagh is stated at somewhat under 5000. It is said that they seldom inter- marry with the townspeople, whom they term "trans- planters," and look upon as an inferior race. They have their own laws, and are governed by a sort of mayor or monarch-elect, styled the "King of Claddagh." This potentate decides all litigated cases, and, by way of dis- tinction, has his boat decorated by a white flag. Among their peculiar customs is that of giving with the bride, as her dowry, a boat, or share of a boat, according to the means of the parents. The marriage-ring, also, is an heir-loom, passing from mother to daughter. It is massive, and often decorated with a heart and crown, supported by two hands. When out fishing, they take with them oaten cake, potatoes. 268 GALWAY BAT. water, but never suffer any species of malt drink oi spirits to form any part of their store. Like all other primitive people, they have their lucky days and unlucky days ; and the people of Galway may starve before they will go to sea on a day of bad omen. "On the eve of St. John the election of the mayor and sheriffs is made by the Claddagh boys. Their mock ceremony is accompanied by real mirth. Fires are lighted up in various places through the town, round which boys and girls dance in joyous hilarity, armed with long-handled besoms, made of dock stems, with which they gently touch each passenger who refuses to obey the mandate of ' honour the bonfire.' The attendants of the mayor and sheriffs are also armed with like rude fasces of authority^ which in the plenitude of fun are ultimately set on fire, and whirled round over the heads of the noisy corporation." Salthill is a small village about two miles west of Galway, where a number of ornamental villas and a com- modious hotel have recently been erected. It is resorted to in the summer months as a watering-place. Omnibuses ply between the railway terminus at Galway and Salthill every half-hour. GALWAY BAY is undoubtedly the finest bay in L?e- land. In length between Kilcrogan Point and the middle of the North Sound, it is above thirty miles. The width of the mouth between Travor Bay and Hags Head is about twenty miles. The facilities offered by this noble bay and its numerous baylets and creeks for an Atlantic trade are abundant, and we trust that the anticipations of the " Saxon in Ireland" will be speedily fulfilled. "It is impossible," writes he, "not to foresee that the great change now visible on the world's surface will act favourably for the west of Ire- land. The spacious and safe harbours of this coast— their immediate proximity to the Atlantic — the large tracts of improveable land, and the facilities now offered for renting or purchasing at prices scarcely higher thsm those of Australia or Canada, must have the effQ above Lough Erne. Passing Belturbet junction we soon reach the station and junction of Clones, where rail may be taken direct to Belfast, Dundalk, or Enniskillen. Clones is a town of historical interest. It is situate on a hill, the summit of which is crowned by a handsome cruciform church. A curious old cross with sculptured figures stands in the main square of the town, and the remains of a fort will be seen on an eminence near the town. Proceeding onwards, we enter County Fermanagh and the Erne district. This may be compared to a rough parallelogram of 40 miles in length, by 20 broad, and is occupied by two lakes, the Upper and Lower Erne. The upper, which we approach first, is an uninteresting stretch of water, narrow and winding, and devoid of that luxuriant vege- tation which renders the lower Lough so picturesque. The real scenery of the lakes commences at Ely Lodge, 5 miles to the north of Enniskillen, and tourists need not delay their route short of that town. The geologist, however, will remark a considerable difference in the rocks between those of the upper and lower lakes. Limestone and the coal measures extend along the upper section of the lake country, while the lower is, with the exception of some limestone at Kesh, occupied by the old red sandstone. The whole upper, in limestone, section abounds in small lakes, subterraneouj streams and caves. The next station on the line is Newtown Butler, a small town situated on an elevation. The main street, in which is the market-place, rises very abruptly, and contains soma good shops. To the west is Crom Castle, the seat of the Earl of Erne, ENNISKILLEN. 313 situated on the shores of the lough. The demesne is well wooded, and laid out with great taste. Among other ohjects of attraction it contains a fine yew tree, said to he the largest in the kingdom, and the ruins of the old castle of Crom, which held out for several days against the army of King James in 1689. The line proceeds in a north-westerly direction at no great distance from the Upper Lough Erne, of which occasional glimpses are to be had. Passing the small town of Lismaskea, belonging to the Earl of Erne, Belleisle, once the beautiful residence of the Earls of Rosse, but now occupied by J. G. Vesey Porter, Esq. ; and Castle Coole, the magnifi- cent seat of the Earl of Belmore. ENNISKTLLEN" [Hotels: Imperial; White Hart; M^Bride's ; Enniskillen Arms] is the chief town in the Comity Fermanagh, and contains a population of 5900. It is built upon an island in the river connecting the Upper and Lower Loughs Erne, and partly on the main- land, with which it is connected by two bridges. The town consists principally of one street, which pursues an undulating course from north to south. The church is a good building. The principle manufacture carried on is cutlery ; a considerable quantity of straw-plait is made in the neighbourhood, and the butter-market, held on Monday and Tuesday, is one of the best in the kingdom. The 6th regiment of dragoons, known as the Inniskillings, was principally raised in this town, which is an important military station, containing large barracks and two forts to command the pass across the river. A column sur- mounted with a statue of the late General Cole, occupies a prominent site in the centre of one of the forts. It is about 100 feet high, and affords an extensive view from its summit. To the west of the town is the Portora Eoyal School, styled the " Irish Rugby," and well worthy of a visit by those interested in our educational institutions. An agreeable drive may also be taken to Castle Coole, one of the finest Grecian mansions in Ireland, erected by Wyatt at an expense of £200,000. The tourist is freely admitted to the grounds, which are beau- tifully laid out and' adorned with rows of magnificent oaks and beeches. A longer excursion may also be taken to Florence Court, the residence of the Earl of Enniskillen, about 9 miles south-west of Enniskiilen, crossing the Erne, returning by the Marble Arch, Lough Macnean, and the Bow Caves to Ely Lodge (Marquis of Ely) on Lough Erne. This round, however, will take a whole dsM* 314 LOUGH ERNE. Lower Lough Erne, whicli is conveniently visited from Enniskillen, is styled the "Windermere of Ireland. Al- tlioiigli wanting the varied picturesqueness of Killarney, it is undoubtedly a charming lake, and abounds with in- terest to the artist, the antiquary, and naturalist. Studded with islets, which dip their luxuriant foliage in its waters, it adds the beauties of a sylvan stream to the placid sternness of a majestic lake. The tourist will find ample scope on its shores and islands for rambles of the most varied kind, while the angler will not be disappointed with its waters if the weather be propitious. There are two ways of seeing the Lough. By steamer (which, however, is irregular in its sailings) the visitor may traverse the lake from end to end in two or three hours ; or, if he intends to see everything, a boat should be taken from Enniskillen, and he should row down the whole way, and this can be done in five hours. To those who wont venture on the water, it is strongly recommended to take a car (the railway affording very im- perfect views) down the north side of the Lough by Kesh to Pettigoe, a distance of about 20 miles. This is one of the most beautiful drives in Ireland. Of the numerous islands LOUGH ERNE. 316 the one most deserving of a visit is Devenish Island, about two miles and a half from Enniskillen, and reached by row-boat. In contains an area of nearly eighty acres. 316 DUBLIN OR GALWAY TO ENNISKILLEN. Devenish, though green as an emerald, is destitute of the foliage which adorns most of the other islands. A very fine round tower, selected for illustration by Dr. Petrie on his work on the Rounds Towers of Ireland a3 the most perfect in the kingdom, stands not far from the ruins of the abbey. " It is exactly circular, 69 feet high to the conical converging at the top, which has been restored, and is 16 feet more ; it is 48 feet in cir- cumference, and the walls are 3 feet 5 inches thick ; thus the inside is only 9 feet 2 inches in diameter, besides the door, which is elevated 9 feet above the ground ; there are seven square holes to admit the light. The whole tower is very neatly built with stones of about a foot square, with scarcely any cement or mortar, and the inside is almost as smooth as a gun barrel." This tower is singular in the possession of a sculptured band of curious design at the eve of its conical roof. It appears that St. Molaise was the first founder of a Christian church in Devenish. He died in 663 oi 670. There are the remains of two churches in the island. That termed the upper is the most beautiful, and appears to be of much more recent erection than the other. It is still customary for the peasantry to have their deceased friends interred among the ruins of this holy spot, as at Scattery and Glendalough. From Enniskillen the traveller may proceed to Donegal or Sligo by taking a boat down the lake to Beleek, and thence by railway or car vid BaUyshannon. Although EnnisHUen and Lough Erne have been de- Bcrihed in connection with the Connemara district, it is not because they are more closely connected with that tour, but in consequence of Enniskillen occupying a sort of de- batable ground between the North and the West tours. To travellers bound either for Connemara or Donegal, this station acts as an excellent base for visiting the lake next in beauty to Ki Harney. A pleasant excursion may be made from Enniskillen by Lough Erne, or by rail aU the way to Beleek, where there is an inn with snug accoc> modation for anglers— this is a good fishing-station — thence to Ballyshannvn (Inns: Imperial and Erne). There is a famous salmon-leap on the river here, where the fish may be seen jumping over the waterfall in their attempt to ascend stream. Four miles further is the pleasant sea-bathing village of Bundoroun (Hamilton's Hotel), where those in search of a strong sea-breez« and a dip in the genuine Atlantic may spend a few days pleasantly enough. The clifis form a very invigorating promenade, and there are some sheltered nooks on the beach below for bathers of both sexes. BELFAST AXD THE NOETH OF lEELAND, FROM DUBLIN TO DONEGAL, Dtsenbed in order. 318 DUBLIN TO BELFAST BY RAILWAY FROM AMIENS STREET TERMINUS. ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN. Cloktarf Castle, seat of Mr. Vernon. Raheny Village. ,^ HowTH, 4i m distant. The Hill of Howth visible. Portmarnock Ho., John Plunkett, Esq. Malahide Hill. Broomfield House, George Cash, Esq. Sea Park. The Village of Ma- lahide. P. 60. Newport, seat of Despard Taylor, Esq. Ruins of Landers town within the de- mesne. Lambay Island, the property of Lord Tal- bot de Malahide, lies off about 3 m. south- east of Rush. 112i llOi 108i 105^ 104i 103J STATIONS, ETC. Dublin. Terminus. Built in the Italian style ; fa- Qade of Wicklow gran- ite. Line passes about one mile from Clontarf, the scene of Brian Boroimhe's victory. Raheny. Junction. Portmarnock. Pass through a ( cutting. Malahide. The Malahide estuary is crossed on wrought-iron lattice viaduct on stone piers, having twelve spans, eight of them fifty-two feet wide. Donabate. Line crosses an estu- ary, on a strong em- bankment, with a wooden viaduct 335 feet in length, and 15 feet above tides. 4| 111 OK LEFT FROM DUBLIN. Marino, seat of Earl of Charlemont. St. Doolagh's t» Church, 1 m. distant, is of great antiquity. Malahide Castle AND Demesne, the seat of Lord Talbot de Malahide. Swords, 3 m. |& P. 61. Has a round tower 73 feet high. Coeduff Demesne. 319 FROM DUBLIN TO BELFAST, &c.— Continued. ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN. Si .C5 Rush, 2 m. dis- tant. A fine Catholic chapel and schools in the village. A fishing village, exports cod- Uver oil and salt fish, Luke Ryan, the Irish Paul Jones, who held a privateer's commis- sion from France dur- ing the American war, was a native of Rush. Hacketstown De- mesne, John John- ston, Esq. Skerry Islands, three in number. On one are some ruins re- ferred to the time of St. Patrick. Balbriggan Dock, constructed in 1829 by the then proprie- tor, the Rev. G. Ha- milton, at a cost of £3000. STATIONS, ETC. 90i Bnsh and Lnsk, P. 62. Kenure Park, the fine modem mansion of Sir R. Palmer, Bart., contains some interestingrelicsfrom Pompeii. Line passes through deep cutting of Bal- dungan Hill. Br, cr. the road to Skerries. Skerries. The ancient name of Skerries was Holm Patrick. It is said to have'sheltered St. Pa trick when pursued by the Druids. Balbriggan. A smalltown, famous for stocking manu- facture. The pro- perty of Balbriggan belongs to the Ha- milton family, who came into possession in the 18th century. Viaduct crosses the harbour. Consists of 11 arches 30 feet span and 35 in height ; the piers of hewn stone. Br. or. river Delvin and enter the county I of Meath. 14 m 21| ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. LnsK, 1 m. dist. to Baldungan Church AND Castle in ruins, an ancientpreceptory of Knights Templars. It was taken by Crom- well, and burned. Mtlverton, seat of George Woods, Esq. Ardgillan Castle, the seat of Lieuten- ant-Colonel Taylor, M.P. Hampton Hall, the seat of Geo. Alex. Hamilton, M,P. Belmore Castle, in ruins. 320 FROM DUBLIN TO BEIFAST, kc— Continued. ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN, Bettystown, former- ly called BetagLs- town, a small water- ing-place. Calpe, a small vil lage. St. Patrick is said to have landed here, and proceeded hence to Tara. MoRNiKGTON, a vil- lage on the Boyne, from which the great Duke of Wellington's father took his title. About 2 m. distant, Stonehouse, the seat of Finlay Alder Ches- ter, Esq. ; RoKEBY Hall, seat of Sir John S. Robin- son, Bart. ; and Barmeath, seat of Lord Bellew, STATIONS, etc. Gormanstown. Cross river Nanny by a solid embankment, with a wooden via- duct 304 feet length. Good trout- fishing in the Nanny. Laytown, A small sea-bathing place. Drogheda. The viaduct, 95 feet in height, which here crosses the Boyne, is grand and massive in the extreme. It con sists of 12 arches of 61 feet span on the south side of the river, and 3 of similar size on the north, with 3 open- ings for the traflBc on the river. The centre arch is 250 feet, and those on either side 125. The weight which the bridge is calcu- lated to support with- out injury to itself is 7200 tons. P. 62. Line enters C. Loutb. S;9 m ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. Gormanstown Cas- tle, seat of Viscount Gormanstown. Ballygarth Castle, once the demesne of Col. Pepper, whose life furnished the in- cidents for Lover's clever stoiy, the " White Horse of the Peppers." JULIANSTOWN, 2 tCT m. distant. The scene of a fierce encounter betwixt tbeRoy aland Parliamentary forces in 1641, in which the former were com- pletely routed. Branch toNAVAN ^ 17^ m., and Kells, 27^ m. distant. At Navan, ruins of Athlumney Castle, round tower of Do- naghmore, and anci- ent church and bridge of Clady. At Kells, monastery founded by St. Co- lumbkiUe, and round tower. Monasterboicc round tower and abbey mins. P. 65. 321 PROM DUBLIN TO BELFAST, tc— Continued ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN. STATIONS, ETC. 23 701 Dnnleer. 41i mi Br. cr. river Dee. 43 Castle Bellingham Demesne, seat of Sir Alan E. Bellingham, Bart. Contains some magnificentyew-trees 64i 64i Castle Bellingham. The village, about two miles distant, is famous for its ale. Br. cr. river Clyde. 471 48 601 Br. cr. river Fane. 52 Dundalk Bay. 58J Lundalk. Edward Bruce was crowned king of Ire- land in Dundalk. He died near the town in battle with the Eng- lish in 1318. P. 342. 541 561 Br. cr. river Kllcurry . 55i 54i Mount Pleasant and Jonesboro'. 58 431 Newry, 3 m. P. 343. Line from Newry to Warren- point, 6^ m. P. 346. Thence to Rosstre- vor, 2^ m. P. 346. 41 37f Newry. (Main Line Station.) Goragh Wood, The railway to Newry branches off here. 7li 74^ 34f Poyntzpass, otherwise calledFen- wick's - pass. " At this and Scarvagh Pass was the first assembly of the Eng- lish army in 1688." Scarva Junction. 77^ ON LEFT FROM DUBLIN. Branch to Ennis- vy killen, 60 m. distant. The line passes over Antrim hills here. Extensive limestone quarries. Branch to Banbridge, 7 miles. A thriving town, with numerous linen manufactories. 322 FROM DUBLIN TO BELFAST, &e.—Continv£d. ON RIGHT FROM DUBLIN. O. Gilford, 2 distant. A town on the river Bamijiii ^^^ County Down, The rising ground in the meighbourhood is well planted. The linen trade is carried on ex- tensively here. The chalybeate spa of Gil- ford was formerly much frequented. •O Dromore, 14^ m. distant. The resi- dence of the bishops •of Dromore, until the see was united to Down and Connor. There are no remains of the ancient cathe dral, and the present church has no preten- sions to particular notice except as hav- ing been built by Jeremy Taylor when bishop of Down. ■O LURGAN, ^ m. distant, A flourish- ing town engaged in the linen manufac- ture, about two miles from Lough Neagh. Hillsborough, 4 m. Victoria Street. a ^ 291 stations, etc. Gilford and Tan- 25^ 19| Portadown Junction. Pleasantly situated on the river Bann, The canal fromNewry falls into the Bann within a mile of the town. P, 346, Lurgan. Page 344. Br. or. Lagan Canal, Moira. Lisburn. Manufacturing town. Gives title to family of Vaughan. Dunmurry. Balmoral, Belfast. Ulster Railway Terminus. 821 105 108J 110 1121 ON left from LONDON. Tanderagee, 1 t& m. distant. Tanderagee Castle, the seat of the Duke of Manchester. Branch to Ar- ty MAGH, 10^ m (p. ), to MoNAGHAN, 27 m., and Clones. ' Branch to Dun- iQr GANNON, 15 m., tha largest town in Ty4 rone, and formerly the chief seat of the| O'Neils, kings of Ul-i ster. It gives title'i of Viscount to the family of Trevor. I Charlestown, to SJ m. distant. LouGH Neagh. Glenavy, 9 m. tor distant. A small town on the eastern side of Lough Neagh. Glingaix BfTaxxt, ■\ x^iupeiLv 01 tne Marquis BELFAST. Hotels.— Imperial, Donegall Place. Boyal, Donegall Place. Prince of "Wales, Victoria Street. Commercial, Commercial Buildings. Queen's York Street. Victoria, Waring Street. Eglinton and Winton, High Street. Linen Hall, Donegall Square. CARS, HACKNEY COACHES, ETC. I. — Two-wheeled Carriages drawn by One Horse. By time. By distance. For any distance not ex- ceeding one mile - - Os. 6d. For every additional half mile - - - - Os. 3d. For the first hour or part of an hour - - - Is. Od. For every additional half hour - . - - Os. 6d. If engaged by the day, 10s. II. — Four-wheeled Carriages with One HoRSip. By distance. For any distance not ex- ceeding one mile - - Os. 8d. For every additional half mile - - - - Os. 4d. If engaged "by the day, 12s. 6d. III. — Two Horse Carriages. By distance. For any distance not ex- ceeding one mile - - Is. Od. For every additional half mile - - - - Os. 6d. By time. For the first hour or part of an hour - - - Is. 4d. For every additional half hour - - , - Os. 8d. By time. For the first hour or part of an hour - - - Is. 8d. For every additional half hour - - . Os. 8d. If engaged by the day, 13s. 6d. Luggage not exceeding 112 Ihs. allowed free. The Tramway Cars run every few minutes between Albert Memorial and Botanic Gardens, and Albert Memorial and Northern Counties Railway- fare 2d. Omnibuses ply between Commercial Buildings and Northern Counties Railway, York Street. For every train — fare 2d. Between Bank Buildings and Mount Pottinger and Sydenham, at fre- quent intervals daily— fares 2d., 3d., and 4d. Between Bank Buildings and Fort- William Park, at frequent intervals daily— fares 3d. and 4d. Few towns liave progressed in importance so rapidly as BeKast. In the course of fifty years the population has increased nearly fivefold. In 1821 the inhabitants numbered only 37,000, while in 1851 they increased to 100,301 and in 1871 to 174,394. The city stands upon the property of the Marquis lalJiiliea \,jA.kC Bliidr limbn-gk 3 2 4 BELFAST. of Donegal, and it is said that, but for long leases granted by the former proprietor, the income of that noble- man from the town alone would amount to ^300,000, while all this is from what James I. presented to Sir Arthur Chi- chester as an insignificant village. The town of BeKast is conveniently situated on the river Lagan, just before it f ows into the elongated bay known as BeKast Lough. The port is only 130 miles from Glasgow, and 156 from Liver- pool. It has a good trade with both of these ports, especi- ally in linen goods and farm produce. The more valuable part of the exports, however, are linen goods, of which mention will be made at a future page. The Irish name of Belfast is expressive of the situation of the town — Beal n^ij far sad, signifying the ^' mouth of the ford." The har- bour, originally a creek of the river Lagan, has now become one of the finest in the United Kingdom. The bay is well sheltered from north and west winds by a number of hills in the vicinity. It affords a safe anchorage, although it is not without sand-banks. *^ Prior to 1839, large vessels had to lie in the pool or basin of Garmoyle, four miles from the town ; but in 1840 a new cut was formed, hav- ing nine feet water at low tides, which has proved a great convenience to the steamers and other vessels frequenting the port. The effect of this improvement is a great addi- tion to the tonnage, it having increased from 445,537 tons in 1845, to 650,938 tons in 1851, and to 1,225,000 tons in 1870. Vessels drawing 16 feet water can now come up in neap tides, and those drawing 18 or 20 feet in spring tides. The management of the port, and all matters connected with traffic by sea, are under the charge of the Harbour Commissioners, established by statute in 1831, and elected by the rate-payers. The recent improvements have been of very great extent, having cost £250,000 raised in local loans on the security of the harbour dues." '* The quays extend in a continuous line from the Queen's Bridge for about a mile. There are two docks — Prince's and the Clarendon — which are reserved for foreign shipping, to which have been added the Abercorn Basin and the Hamilton Graving Dock, which were formally opened by the Lord BELFAST. 325 Lieutenant of Ireland on the 2d of October 1867. Tliere 'is also a new float- ing dock with entrance gates 60 feet wide, and whicn, at high water of ordi- nary tides, has a depth of 22 feet over the sili ; also a tidal dock and entrance basin. The new docks — exclusive of the Hamilton Graving Dock, which Is 450 feet long, and capable of admitting the largest class of vessels — add 25 acres of water area, and upwards of a mile of quayage to the shipping ac- commodation of the port, A pair of masting shears, capable of lifting a weight of 50 tons, and masting the largest vessels afloat, has been erected at the Abercorn Basin." "The offices of the Harbour Commissioners are contained in a superb edifice, in the Italian style, finished in 1854, from the designs of George Smith, Esq., C.E., entirely constructed of cut stone, with an elegant clock- tower. It stands on a well-selected site, the principal front facing Clarendon Dock." **0n the Queen's Island is an iron ship-building yard, employing upwards of 2,000 hands, from which have been launched some of the finest steamers and sailing ships afloat. This yard has been placed on the Admi- ralty list as suitable for building for the Royal Navy. A gun-vessel of 500 tons was constructed here in 1867 for the Fleet ; and four iron steamers were launched in 1871, with an aggregate tonnage of 16,000 tons." "The burgh returns two members of Parliament ; constituency in 1873, 15,010. It is governed by a corporation elected by the rate-payers of the five wards — St. Anne's, Dock, Smithfield, St. George's, and Cromac — each ward returning two aldermen and six Councillors."* The general appearance of tlie town is that of a clean, thrifty, business place, with some of the trade and manu- facture of Manchester and Glasgow, but without the smoke or dirt of either. The buildings are good, and many of the streets very regular and wide, especially towards the ex- terior of the town. Belfast cannot claim the same high antiquity as Dublin or even Drogheda, having been actually unheard of before the twelfth century, unless as a piece of country without interest, or even inhabitants. Henry II,, though not possessing a foot of territory within it, granted the whole province of Ulster to his follower De Courcy, who lost no time in endeavouring to secure the possessions bestowed on him. The fishermen's hovels, which had for- merly been the only representatives of a town, gave way in process of time to stone-built houses — in fact an embryo city, Edward Bruce did not lose sight of Belfast-in his way south, but completely sacked it. Shortly after the death of Bruce, the Earl of Ulster was murdered by some of his own family, and the Irish once more held out against English aggression, rebuilt the castle of Belfast, and held it for two centuries. The most important era in the history of Belfast is that of its presentation to Sir A, Chichester, the ancestor of the present Marquis of Donegal, in 1612. A year later the burgh was incorporated. From this period the commercial spirit of the inhabitants seems to have been fostered, though it was not for many years * Thorn's Almanack. 326 BELFAST. that it assumed a very striking attitude. It is worthy of notice that, not- withstanding the early spread of Presbyterianism in the county of Antrim, and especially in the town of Belfast, great indignation was expressed by the inhabitants at the execution of Charles I. Milton, who, though a great man, could not afford to be charitable, spoke very disrespectfully of them for this liberality of spirit, styling them "blockish Presbyters," and "un- hallowed priestlings." In 1660 the town, as we learn by a plan bearing that date, contained but six streets. " Perhaps the most remarkable fact in the industrial history of Belfast is, that no printing press was ever brought into the city before the year 1696. In barbarous Russia, 'therefore, printing was used at an earlier date than in this commercial town. Yet Belfast was the town where the first Bible ever printed in Ireland was published (printed by Messrs. Blow and Neill in 1794), and where the oldest Irish periodical, the 'Weekly Magazine,' was originally established."* There are now numerous newspapers published in Bel- fast. The first established was " The Belfast News Letter," begun in 1737, now a daily paper ; besides it there are " The Northern Whig," " The Ulster Examiner," " The Ulster Echo," " The Morning News," and " The Evening Telegraph," which are all daily papers ; " The Linen Trade Circular," " Mercantile Journal," etc., issued weekly. We do not offer any detailed walks through the city, but select the more interesting features, and by reference to the plan the descriptions will be readily found. The Commercial Buildings, situated opposite the end of Donegal Street, were built by a company in 1820 at a cost of £20,000. The pile contains a large and handsome reading-room, well supplied with newspapers. A consider- able portion of the building is let off as a hotel. In the commercial buildings was the office of Ireland's regenerator, " the Eoyal Society for the promotion and improvement of the growth of flax in Ireland." (It is not too much to say that never has any society done so much for the civilisa- tion of a country as this has for Ireland.) As we will have occasion to refer in another place to the linen trade of Ire- land, we will only call attention at present to the increased growth of flax in Ireland since the establishment of this society, and the benefits likely to accrue to the country from this addition to her national resources. The society * Kohl's Ireland. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 327 had an annual grant from Government of XlOOO, and did not confine its operations to Ulster, but had a staff of instructors distributed over the country. The quantity of flax cultivated in Ireland has been generally on the increase of late years. In 1847 there were 58,312 acres sown, each acre yielding about 5 cwt. of scutched fibre, altogether worth .£656,100. In 1852 the value of the crop had increased by nearly a million sterling, while in 1870 the estimated value of the flax grown was two millions. The amount of money thus spread in the country must have its 66*6 ct in producing happy changes in the social condition of the people, especially seeing that a considerable portion of it must be paid for labour. At the annual meeting of the society for 1853, the chairman, the Earl of Erne, stated that " he held in his hand a return which he had procured from a friend of his, and he found, by referring to it, that on the produce of an acre of ground under flax, a day's labour of sixty-four females and fifty-three males, or one hundred and seventeen persons in all, is employed on it from the time it is pulled to the time that it goes to the miU. From a return made to the Government, he found that 175,000 acres were under flax this year ; and that, on the estimate he had just made, it would appear that this breadth of flax would give a year's employment to 56,000 persons, the wages of whom would be about a million of pounds sterling. There was no one crop which could be said to afford an amount of employment at all like that : and it should be borne in mind that this calcu- lation was made on the supposition of the scutch mill being used ; but, if they were to use the hand-scutching system, they would have a great many more persons employed." The same nobleman, speaking of the value of the crop to the farmer, remarked that " the crop was a paying one, and he could say, that on his own property, in the County Donegal, the people always preferred the flax crop. They sometimes got £15 for the flax on foot, and it was con- sidered that, taking the seed at twenty bushels, and the price at 5s. or 6s., the owners have a return of upwards of 328 BELFAST, £20 for an acre of flax, without any trouble further than sowing it." "With regard to the exports, we learn from the report presented by the able secretary Mr. Macadam, that flax and tow are on the increase. The report also states, that " it is most gratifying to observe that since 1850 the export from Ireland of the raw material has increased from 3166 tons to 9004 tons, notwithstanding the very large additions during that period to the Irish flax-spinning trade, and the consequent increase of home consumption. There can be little doubt that, as the growth of this crop continues to extend in Ireland, the export of its fibre will also increase, not only for the supply of English and Scotch spinners, but also for those of the Continent." The Belfast Bank is at the corner of Waring and Donegal Streets, directly opposite the Commercial Buildings. The entrance is in Eoman Doric ; the windows are guarded by Corinthian columns ; a fine cornice supports the para- pet. Notwithstanding the mixture of Doric and Corinthian, the exterior presents an elegant appearance. The cash office is very spacious, and has been compared to that in the Bank of Ireland, Dublin. It is sixty feet in length, by about thirty wide, acd thirty-six in height. On the site of the present building formerly stood a plain inelegant structure known as the "Old Exchange," erected in 1769 by the Earl of Donegal at a cost of £4000. Presbyterian Church, Kosemary Street, is the hand- somest church belonging to that denomination in Belfast. A flight of twenty steps leads to a handsome portico, com- posed of ten Doric coluiians, over which rises an elaborate balustrade. The internal decorations are quite in keeping with the exterior of the church, which cost .£10,000. In Belfast there are twenty-eight congregations of Presby- terians, eighteen of Episcopalians, lave of Catholics, and three of Unitarians. The Presbyterian Church of Ireland, founded in the year 1642, was planned on the model of the Scotch Presbyterian Church. Many years ago, however, a division took place in the bocfy, in consequence of a re- PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 329 solution of the majority to compel all their ministers to sign the Westminster Confession of Faith. The minority who seceded are known as Eemonstrants. In the census of 1871, Belfast showed a large preponderance of Pro- testants — the Protestant population being 118,868, while the Catholics numbered only 55,502. Of the former 60,811 were Presbyterians. The Provincial Bank, in Hercules Place, erected in 1869, is a very handsome structure in the Venetian style of architecture, built of white Cookstown stone, and erected at a cost of £18,000. The New Theatre Royal, Arthur Street, which was opened in 1871, has a very elegant front. Nearly opposite the Theatre is the Masonic Hall, erected in 1870. The Ulster Bank, in Waring Street, is one of the handsomest buildings in the city. It is built of polished red sandstone, and has an attractive front, supported by twelve Doric columns below, and sixteen above, surmounted by a pediment, in the tympannm of which are the arms of Ireland and Ulster. The interior is fitted with a dome, whose windows contain stained-glass portraits of several eminent men. This building forms the head office of the Company, which has a capital of .£1,000,000, and does a large business in Belfast. The New Custom House, Post Office, etc. — This fine structure is one of the largest in Belfast, and occupies an area obtained by extensive clearances and improvements, between the lower extremity of High Street and Albert Square. The building was commenced towards the close of 1854, and finished in 1857. It is constructed entirely of the finest Glasgow stone, and the style of architecture is Italian, or Palladian. The edifice occupies three sides of a quadrangle, with a large conrt-yard inside, approached by a flight of steps on the fourth side. It affords ample accomodation for various public services, including under the same roof a Custom House, a Post Office, an Inland Eevenue Office, a Stamp Office, and an office for the Board of Local Marine. The principal front faces the river, and 330 BEI.5'4ST. the main portion of tMs part of the edifice is used as the Custom House. The side, or wings facing High Street, includes the Post Office and the Local Marine Office. In the opposite wing are the Inland Eevenue Office and Stamp Office. The space devoted to the business of the Custom House is much larger in proportion to that required by the other offices, and it is in this department that the principal room of the building is placed — namely the " Long Eoom," which is 70 feet in length by 30 in width, and 25 in height. In the spandrils of the arches of the grand staircase are four sculptured figures, designed by Samuel Lynn, Esq., of London, and executed by Messrs. Fitzpatrick of Belfast, representing Manufacture, Peace, Commerce, and Industry. The tympanum of the pediment is filled with an emblematic design of Britannia, supported on one side by Neptune, and the other by Mercury. The Northern Bane, in High Street, is a handsome square building, with a large telling-room, opposite the Albert Memorial clock-tower. This very elegant struc- ture is a conspicuous object in the town, rising 147 feet in height and terminating in a handsome bell-turret spire. The dials of the clock are 10 feet in diameter. A statue of the Prince occupies a niche in the shaft of the tower. St. Ann's Parish Church, in Donegal Street, is a good building. It was erected by the Marquis of Donegal in 1776. The building is striking on account of the admixture of its architecture. The portico is in the Doric style, the tower in the Ionic, and the cupola Corinthian. The Harbour Office, at the head of Clarendon Dock, is an imposing edifice, built of the finest Glasgow stone The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses, especially those in Donegal Square, will naturally attract the visitor's attention. The Mills are situated in all parts of the town, and ready access can be obtained to most of them. That of the York Street Spinning Company, in Henry Street, at the north of the town, is one of the most extensive in the kingdom. The interminable hum of myriads of spindles, and the subdued sound of the machinery, together with t,^« PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 331 light and airy appearance of tlie rooms, and qniet and orderly behaviour of the hands employed, appear at first sight to be entirely a new feature in Ireland. In Ireland we find the first spinning factory was established in 1806, and consisted of only 212 spindles, adapted for canvas yarns. The Linen Board, by a bounty of 30s. per spindle, succeeded in causing the establish- ment of several others, which in 1809, in the aggregate, contained 6369 spindles. In 1815 there were in Ulster five mills, the largest having 1204, and the smallest 300 spindles ; in Leinster two mills, and in Munster, seven, only one of which was in full operation, 0"\ving to the depression of trade at that period. In 1841 we find that there were forty-one mills, containing 280,000 spindles ; in 1850 the number had increased to seventy- three mills, ^vith 339,00 spindles; and in 1852 there were not less than eighty-one mills, having about 600,000 spindles in operation, representing an amount of capital of between three and four millions sterling. The number of factories has now increased to about 160, employing about 60,000 persons. The York Street Spinning Company, formerly the firm of Mulhollands, employs nearly 3000 hands, and has generally £100,000 worth of flax in the course of manipulation. The Artillery Barrack is a commodious pile in North Queen Street, not far from The Infantry Barrack. Either of these establish- ments may be visited by the curious in military affairs, but they present little attraction for the majority of visitors. The Belfast Charitable Society's House, stands at a short distance from the Barracks, and fronts Donegal Street. It was erected in 1774 for the reception of aged and infirm persons and poor children, and is supported by annual subscriptions, bequests, and donations. The spire of this building is a conspicuous object from many parts of the town. In Carlisle Circus, near the Charitable Society's House, is St. Enoch's Presbyterian Church, erected in 1872. This church wiU seat fuUy 2300 people. It is built in the French Gothic style, and presents an imposing appearance. A prominent feature in the building is the spire, which rises to a height of 125 feet. Trinity Church is not a great way from the Chari- table Society's House. It is a moderately sized building, with a handsome square tower, terminated with an octagonal spire. Its erection is due to the liberality of William Wil- 332 BELFAST. son, Esq., and Ms sister. Well-executed scnlptnre ornaments all tlie details of tlie building. It was erected in 1843. The Gaol, built of red stone, is a new building on tbe Crumlin Eoad, at tbe north-west of the town, having been opened so recently as 1846. Carrickfergus was until a few years since the county town, and formerly contained the County Gaol. The present structure is large and commodi- ous, being capable of containing so many as three hundred prisoners. Extensive yards are attached to the prison. The Court-House is also a new building, and is right opposite the gaol. It was opened in 1850. In front is a handsome hexastyle portico, composed of Corinthian columns. The tympanum of the pediment contains the royal arms. On the apex of the pediment is an emblem- atical figure of Justice, from the chisel of Kirke of Dublin. The internal arrangements are admirable. The public hall, in which candidates for the city's suffrage address the electors, is a noble apartment. The lower portion is built in the Doric style, while the upper portion exhibits the foliated Corinthian. The hall is about thirty-fivB feet in height by forty-seven wide each way. The court-rooms are well arranged, adequate space being allowed for the accommodation of the public. St. Patrick's Eoman Catholic Chapel is a very plain edifice at the northern end of Donegal Street. KoYAL Academical Institution, and Government School of Art. — In the centre of a "large square, not far from the Ulster Eailway terminus, stands the old College, a large pile of buildings occupied as such before the found- ing of Queen's College, but now only used as the home of the Eoyal Academical Institution and the Government School of Art. The building is plain, but respectable in appearance. It was erected in 1800. The School of Art was re-opened in 1870, after having been closed for nearly seventeen years. The Statue Gallery and Lecture Rooms are replete with everything calculated to promote the efficiency of the School. The academical classes are Eng- lish, writing, mathematics, classics, French, and drawing. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 333 Christ Church is also within the square. It faces the north, with an Ionic colonnade. It is calculated to accom- modate 1600 sitters, and was erected at a cost of £5000. Of this sum we are told that £3000 was raised by volun- tary subscription. On the east side of College Square is a well-executed bronze statue by McDowell, of the late Earl of Belfast, who died in 1853, aged 26. It is on a graceful pedestal, which bears a suitable inscription. Belfast Museum. — This building is on the north side of College Square. It is built after classic models, and displays much good taste in the execution of the design. The internal arrangements of the museum are good, and highly creditable to the enterprise of the shareholders. There is a very rich collection of Irish antiquities, a tolerable geological collection, and a series of ornithological specimens. The remarks of Mr. Kohl on the museum are not only just but generous. **Tlie museum of Belfast," he writes, "contains many interesting Irish antiquities found in the neighbourhood, and also many natural curiosities ; but the traveller seeks in vain for what he must most desire and expect in this place — I mean a complete, well-arranged, satisfactory, and instruc- tive collection of geological andmineralogical specimens, illustrative of the Giant's Causeway and the other interesting volcanic formations, which render the whole northern coast of Ireland so remarkable. Every provincial museum has its own particular task to fulfil, since each is generally par- ticularly qualified by its geographical position to promote the investigation of some one important branch of natural history." ** Some specimens," he adds, " of this coast are indeed found in the Belfast museums ; but in vain we ask after a complete collection of all the volcanic materials of which the northern coast consists, or for an arrangement of them in the natural order in which they are found, or for a correct model in wood or plaster of the Giant's Causeway, or of the whole northern coast, none of which ought to be wanting in a place like Belfast." The building was erected in 1830. A little way from College Square, at the end of Howard Street, is another Presbyterian Church, Fisherwick Place. — This place of worship was opened in 1827 by the highly gifted Chalmers. It is a chaste structure capable of seating 1700. The prevailing style is Ionic. The pillars of the doorway are especially beautiful. 334 BELFAST. St. Malachy's Roman Catholic Chapel was opened in 1844. It may appear strange that this chapel should be built in the Tudor style, yet such is the case. The internal arrangements, too, are not the same as in other chapels belonging to this denomination. The plan is cer- tainly cruciform, but the altar is placed at the side. There is a splendid tablet of marble in the chancel to the memory of Captain Griffiths, who left £5000 for the chapel. The Len^en Hall, occupying the centre of Donegall Square, is a good building, erected in 1 7 1 5 at a cost of £10,000. The site was kindly granted by the then Earl of Donegal. The building consists of brick, is quad- rangular, and two storeys in height. Surrounding the hall are well planted grounds. The linen trade being almost exclusively sustained by Ulster, it was found inconvenient to have the business conducted by agents in Dublin, in consequence of which the Linen Hall arose. It would seem strange that one of the most illiberal pieces of policy ever practised by England to Ireland was that which gave the first decided impulse to the linen trade. "In 1698, both Houses of Parliament addressed his Majesty (William III.), representing that the progress of the woollen manu- facture of Ireland was such as to predjudice that of this country, and that it would be for the public advantage, were the former discouraged, and the linen manufacture established in its stead. His Majesty replied, * I shall do all that in me lies to discourage the woollen manufacture in Ireland, and encourage the linen manufacture, and to pro- mote the trade of England.' " ^ The introduction of machinery for washing, etc., in 1725, and the more recent improvements in bleaching, have given a wonderful impetus to the trade. " A good deal of the Belfast linen is still woven, at handlooms in the cottages of the peasantry, but power-loom weaving, or that of machinery, is more and more trenching on their domains." t * MacCulloch's Dictionary of Commerce. t Kohl's Ireland, PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 335 Ulster Hall, in Bedford-street, was erected in 1862 as a concert-room and a hall for public meetings. It lias a portico, supported by six CorintMan columns, for the reception of carriages. The hall, which is seated with chairs for 3000 people, contains a powerful organ, and is fitted up with all the modem improvements. The Music Hall, in Arthur Street, is an attractive building in the Doric style of architecture. It was erected in 1839. Parties complain of the heavy appearance of the building, but it ought to be remembered that Grecian Doric structures must necessarily have a solid aspect. St. George's Church, in High Street, was erected on the site of a church of much older date, which had been removed in 1774. This older edifice, once known as the Corporation Church, was raised on the ruins of an old baronial hall. The portico is very chaste. Six elegant columns and four pilasters support a fine pediment, in tho tympanum of which are the arms of the sees of BeKast and Down and Connor, in alto-relievo. When the Earl of Bristol held the see of Derry, this portico graced a splendid palace built by him on the shores of Lough Beg. At his death, the Bishop of Down and Connor, Dr. Alexander, purchased and presented it to St. George's Church. Queen's Bridge spans the river not far from the terminus of the County Down Railway. It occupies the place of " the Great Bridge of Belfast," which was founded in 1682, and considerably damaged in 1689 by Schomberg's cannon passing over it. The old Bridge consisted of twenty-one arches, one-third of which fell in 1692. The present erection, opened in 1841, well deserves notice ; it is not only elegant in appearance, but substantial and com- modious. There are five arches of fifty feet span each. The roadway is good and perfectly level, the width being forty feet Queen's College is gained by the Botanic Garden Road and Albion Place. It is a handsome brick building pointed with stone. The tower, which rises to a height of 100 feet is a continuation of the chief doorway. The 336 BELFAST. entire length of tlie buildirig is 600 feet ; it consists of a centre of 300 feet, and two wings, each 150 feet. The halls, lecture rooms, museums, and other apartments, are spacious and well lighted. The architecture is in the Per- pendicular style, and has a fine rich appearance, owing to the judicious arrangement of bright red brick and polished stone. The college was opened in 1849 — the president. Dr. Henry, delivering the inaugural address. In the first session there were 175 students in Queen's College, Bel- fast — a number exceeding the sum of Cork and Gal way added together. The same rules as to scholarships and other matters in the regulation of the internal arrange- ments are common to the three colleges. On the opening of the Queen's College, the old college was closed, and it is interesting to know that some of the chairs in the former were filled up by professors from the latter. The Presbyterian College is an elegant struc- ture, occupying a site at the extremity of University Square, and facing the Botanic Eoad. It was opened by Dr. Merle D'Aubigne in 1853, for the instruction of the theological students of the General Assembly. It is pre- sided over by the President and the other members of the Assembly's Theological Faculty, who, previous to the passing of the Irish Church Bill, were endowed by the Government with salaries of .£250 a year each. The Institution was wholly erected by the voluntary contribu- tions of the Presbyterian body, in accordance with the Assembly's resolutions agreed to at Cookstown in 1844, and its management is entirely under the Assembly's control. The Methodist College, which was opened in 1868, stands on a rising ground nearly opposite the Botanic Gardens. It was erected at a cost of X25,000. It com- prises a longitudinal range of buildings with two projecting wings, and in architectural design and appearance will bear favourable comparison with any of the public edifices in Belfast. This institution affords a theological training to candidates for the Ministry in the Wesleyan Church ; and PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 337 there is also a collegiate department in which Wesleyan students attending the Queen's College, can be provided with chambers, as well as a department embracing a boarding and day seminary conducted under competent masters. The Model School was erected by the Commis- sioners of National Education in Ireland, as one of their district model schools in Belfast, in a large area of unoc- cupied space on the Falls Eoad, opposite Ardmoulin Place. The structure was completed and opened in May 1857, and is of large dimensions. Its style of architecture is the Elizabethan, and the material is the fine red brick manu- factured in the neighbourhood, the dressings of the win- dows, etc., being in the best Caen stone. The principal fa9ade is lii7 feet in length, and the length of the sides, or flanks, is 117 feet. There are also many National Schools in the town and neighbourhood of Belast, besides schools under the patronage of the Church Education Society. The Botanic Garden is a little way beyond the College. Tlie principal conservatory is of iron, with arched roof ; the appearance is light and airy ; wliile the material employed and the design give a solidity which could never be suspected by the cursory observer. Here will be found the cypress and the arbutus growing in the open air, although the latter is not indigenous to the north of Ireland. The garden also contains a fine collection of the heaths found in the Irish bogs, among which are many large and fine specimens. It is the property of a number of shareholders, who annually elect twenty-one proprietors to manage the affairs of the society. The price of admission is 6d. The People's Park, Ormean Eoad, which was pur- chased by the Corporation in 1870, for the benefit of the inhabitants, is a very extensive piece of ground, well covered with fine trees, and is laid out with much taste. The admission is free. The Hospital of the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind, on the 333 BELFAST. Dublin Eoad, is also at tlie soutli end of the town. The building is 220 feet wide. It is two storeys high, and in the Elizabethan style. It was opened for the reception of inmates in 1845. Many other objects in the city might be pointed out as worth the tourist's notice, such as the new Presbyterian Church, Fitzroy Avenue ; St. James's Church, and Duncairn Church, Antrim Road ; St. Thomas's Church, Lisburn Road ; Elmwood Church, Botanic Road, and other chapels, the quays, the railway termini, and the handsome streets, but such an enumeration would lead too much into detail, and tend to confuse the reader. If the stranger wishes, however, to gain a bird's-eye view of the city and its environs, he should pay a visit to Cave Hill, about three miles north of the town, rising 1140 feet above the sea level. It is chiefly interesting on account of its geological structure, being composed of limestone and basalt, the latter superimposed on the for- mer. The view of Belfast Lough from Cave Hill, so called from three caves in it, is exceedingly fine, commanding the whole of Belfast Lough, the greater part of the County Down, and in clear weather the coast of Scotland. At its base is MacGill House. An agreeable drive may be taken to the hill by following the Carrickfergus turnpike to the cross road to the left, and returning by Clifton Hill. Another delightful drive is to the Giant's Ring, situated about four miles from Belfast, in the neighbourhood of Ballylesson. The scenery is very charming, and the Giant's Ring is one of the most interest- ing works of antiquity to be found in Ireland, and one which no tourist should omit to visit. It consists of an enormous circle, more than one-third of a mile in circumfer- ence. This vast ring is enclosed by an immense mound of earth about 80 feet broad and of so great a height that a person standing inside can see only the enclosure and the sky. Near the centre of the circle stands a large crom- lech or stone altar. 339 EXCUESIONS FEOM BELFAST. Where there are so many objects of interest around a city as there are here, it is difficult to lay down any set routes without either omitting some places or burdening the description. The only plan we can adopt in this case is to classify the various places under three main routes, arranging them alphabetically as follows : — 1. Belfast to Bundalk, page 340. By Ulster Eailway, Victoria Street Station. Armagh Carlingford , Page . 340 . 341 Hillsborough Lisbuni Page . 343 . 343 Portadown . Rosstrevor . Pag« . 846 . 346 Dundalk . . 342 Lurgan Newry . . 344 . 344 Warrenpoint . 346 2. Belfast to Donaghadee and Newcastle, page 348. By Bangor and County Down Eailway s, from Queen's Bridcje Station. Page Ardglass . . 349 Ballinahinch . 349 Bangor and Holy- wood . . 349 Bryansford . . 358 Page Castle Wellan . 350 Donaghadee . 351 Downpatrick . 352 Dundrum . . 353 Pag* Grey Abbey . 354 Killyleagh . . 355 Mourne Mountains 359 Newcastle . . 356 Newtown-Ards . 464 3. Belfast to the Giant's Causeway, page 365. By Northern Counties Eailway — station, end of York Street Page Page Pa«e Antrim . 369 Coleraine . 374 Portstewart . 374 BaUymena . . 373 Dunluce Castle . 375 Randalstown . 373 Bushmills . . 377 Giant's Causeway 378 Shane's Castle . 371 CSEirrickfergus . 366 Greencastle . 366 Templepatrick . 368 Castlerock . . 374 Lough Neagh 369 White Abbey . 366 Cave Hill . . 338 Portrush 375 White Rocks . 375 By the Coast Eoad via Lame and Glenarm. See page 387. 340 BELFAST TO DUNDALK. Places of Interest in Alphabetical Arrangement. Armagh. Hillsborongh. Portadown. Carlingford. Lisburn. Rosstrevor. Dundalk. Lurgan. Newry. Warrenpoint. AEMAGH (Beresford Arms Hotel), 36 m. from Belfast the county town, was formerly a celebrated city. Its name, Ard-Macha, " tlie Hill of Macha," is derived from one of tkree heroines so called in old Irish stories. One of these (the most probable) " founded the palace of Emania, three centuries before the Christian era, and was the only queen who ever wielded the sceptre of Ireland !" She was killed in battle, and buiied here. " An elliptical entrenchment, called the Navan Fort^^ about two miles west of the city, encloses a space of about twelve acres, and represents a regal abode of extreme antiquity. St. Patrick came to preach the gospel in Ireland about the year 432 ; and about twenty- j&ve years after, he founded the church of Armagh. The earliest church built here was probably only con- structed with wattles and clay, but in 1268 the Primate O'Scannail commenced, on its site, the " Tempull Mor," or " Great Church." It was burned, however, by Shane O'Neill, towards the close of the 1 6th century, and repaired by Primate Hampton, about 1620 : again burned by Sir Phelim O'Neill in 1642, and continued in a ruinous state till Primate Margetson restored it about 1675. The ex- pression of Harris (Ware's Bishops), " the rebuilding this at his own expense," etc., has led some writers to suppose that the present building is a comparatively new structure. But, in fact, the Cathedral of Armagh is the shell of the old church erected about 1270, restored from ruin and strengthened, but having aU its ancient architectural features either retained or reproduced. It was thus restored about CARLINGFORD. 341 twenty -five years ago, by the late venerable Primate. The cost of restoration is supposed to have been £32,000, of which £23,000 was given by his Grace himself. Armagh is one of the metropolitan sees of Ireland ; Dublin being the other ; but the Archbishop of Armagh is Primate of all Ireland. There is a second church in Armagh, St. Mark's ; and a very handsome Catholic Cathedral, besides three Presbyterian Churches, and places of worship for Independents, Methodists, etc. The town of Armagh, viewed from whatever point, is one of great beauty. Built on a hill which rises in the midst of a vale, its apparent elevation being much increased by its ancient cathedral crowning the mass of houses, the effect produced is peculiarly pleasing. Nor does it lose anything on a closer inspection. The streets are actually flagged with marble, and the newer houses are built of the same material. The orderly appearance of the town, the pleasant walks in its neighbourhood, and the thrifty business- like aspect of the inhabitants, will interest the tourist, even if the historical associations have no charm for him. The city owes much of its claim to modern distinction to the munificence of Primate Kobinson, Lord Eokeby, who held the see from 1765 to 1794. The Observatory, beautifully situated on a hill to the north-east of the town, was built and endowed by Primate Eobinson in 1789, and the Library, with about 13,000 volumes, is another of that Primate's foundations. There is also a Eoyal School, and all the buildings proper to a county town. Armagh returns one member to Parliament, CAELINGFORD, on the south side of Carlingford Bay, is about 6 miles from Warrenpoint station, and has a fair hotel. The town is small, and chiefly famous for the oyster trade and deep-sea fishing in the vicinity. Carling- ford Castle, attributed to King John, is a fine old ruin overlooking the water. In the town also are the remains of two other ancient S42 BUNDALK. buildings, on tlie walls of which, are some very curious devices carved in the stone. One of these buildings is called the Hospital, and is attributed to the Knights of St John. Outside the town there are also the ruins of a fine Abbey, which stand in a picturesque situation under the craggy mountain that overhangs the town. DUNDALK (Arthur's Hotel), 58 m. from Belfast and about half way to Dublin, is situated upon a low flat expanse of marshy ground, at the head of the magnificent bay which bears its name, and consists of one long street intersected by several smaller ones. The chief public edifices are the old Parish Church, a handsome Eoman Catholic chapel, Presbyterian and Methodist meeting- liouses, the National Bank, and the Commercial Buildings — the latter containing a public hall. About one mile from the town is the Union Workhouse. The harbour has been improved of late years, so that vessels drawing 16 feet water can now come up to the quays, where the channel is about 150 feet in width. The rise of the tide at the bar is 1 6 feet, and at the bridge 7 feet. The trade at Dundalk is in a very flourishing condition ; steamers sail for Liver- pool, a distance of 153 miles, three times a week — fare, 10s. The town contains a distillery, two breweries, a flax mill, two flour mills, and a pin manufactory. It is an ancient town, and has been fortified, though now dismantled, as may be seen by the ruins of the walls. This was the last town in Ireland where a monarch was crowned and resided in royal splendour. After the decisive victory of BannocklDum had placed Scottish indepen- dence beyond the grasp of England, the Irish, desirous to participate in the advantages of freedom, requested the Scots to come over to their assistance, at the same time oflering the crown to Edward, brother of Robert Bruce. He landed with six thousand men, and being joined by the Ulster Irish, set about destroying the English settlers. Having stormed and taken Dundalk, he was crowned, and resided here for two years. In 1318, Bruce was killed on the hill of Foighard, near Dundalk, in an engagement with the English. " The armies met near Dundalk, and previously to the engagement, the prelate of Armagh went through the ranks of the English, inflaming their HILLSBOROUGH ANr> LISBURN. 343 ralour by his exhortations, distrihuting his henedictions, and pronouncing his absolution on all who should perish in so good a cause. The shock of the encountering hosts was furious in the extreme, and the combat long maintained on both sides with desperate valour ; but the Scots were at length discomfited, with dreadful carnage, and Edward Bruce finished on the field of battle his inglorious career, by the arm of a knight named Maupus, who had rushed for that purpose into the enemy's ranks, and fell by many wounds on the body of his antagonist." * TTie town was held in 1649 bj Monk for the king, and in 1689 for James II., but was taken without resist- ance by Schomberg. Dundalk demesne, the seat of Lord Roden, is open to visitors. The mansion is a tnrreted building of attractive appearance, and the grounds are well laid out. One avenue, half a mile in length, is completely canopied by the foliage. Half a day may also be very pleasantly spent in the neighbourhood of Dundalk, on the expansive bay. If a day can be spared, a boat may be taken to Eiverstown, whence the tourist may walk across to Carlingford, and thence by boat cross Carlingford Bay to Rosstrevor. HILLSBOROUGH {Hotel: Corporation Arms), 12 m. from Belfast and 4 m. south of Lisburn, on the Banbridge and Lisburn railway, is a small town, adjoining which are the demesne and residence of the Marquis of Downshire. There is a handsome church here, with a fine tower and spire, erected in 1774 by the first Marquis, then Earl of Hills- borough. In the park is an old castle, with square towers at the angles, standing on one side of a rectangular court- yard, with ramparts and towers ; remarkable as being the resting-place of King William III. on his way to the Boyne. LISBURN (Hertford Arms Hotel), 7|- m. from Belfast, formerly Lisnegarvey, a new town, burned down early in the last century and subsequently rebuilt, and consisting of one principal street and a large market-place. In the middle of this is a Market-House and Assembly-Room ; * Gordon's History of Ireland, 344 LtlKGAN. and on tlie east side is tlie entrance to the Parisli Clmrcli, with a high and graceful spire. This church was, by letters patent of King Charles II., constituted the Cathedral of Down and Connor ; the Cathedral of Down being then ruinous, and that of Connor destroyed. In the church is a monument to the learned and estimable Jeremy Taylor, who held the see of Down, of Connor, and also of Dromore, from 1660 to 1667. A native of Cambridge, where his father had been a barber, he was put to college as a sizar, and became Fellow of All Saints' College, Oxford. He came to Ireland with Lord Conway, and after the Kestora- tion was made bishop, and also vice-chanceUor of the University of Dublin. The church also contains a monument to the memory of Lieutenant Dobbs, who was killed off the Irish coast in an engagement with the pirate Paul Jones ; and another to that of the gallant Brigadier-General John Nicholson, who fell at the head of the column of attack on the walls of Delhi, in 1857. Lisburn sends one member to Parliament. In the vicinity is found a stone similar in appearance and qualities to the celebrated lithographic oolite of Solenhofen. It appears, however, to be an altered chalk, and is rather brittle. LURGAN, 20 m. from Belfast, is a very neat clean town in the north-east corner of the County Armagh. It gives the title of Baron to the family of Brownlow, whose beautiful demesne adjoining the town is open to visitors. The linen trade is carried on briskly in the town. A little way beyond Lurgan the railway crosses a small portion of the County Down, at Moira. The line at this point also skirts the corner of Lough Neagh, which will be more properly described hereafter, NEWRY (Victoria Hotel), 44 m. from Belfast, is gained by a junction on the Drogheda Railway. The glimpse of the town obtained in passing is one which will not be NEWRY. 345 easily forgotten. Situated in tlie vale of tlie river Newry, with hills on either side, and within a few miles of the lovely bay of CarHngford, the streets rising tier above tier, the picturesque situation of the Old Church, and the tall chimneys and factories, give an appearance at once novel and interesting to the view. Upon nearer inspection, however, the town is found to be dull, and in general irregularly built, with some good shops and handsome buildings on the low ground along the river, and altogether much improved since the witty Dean Swift described the town as consisting of ** High church, low steeple, Dirty streets, and proud people." The older portion of the town is built upon the steep slope of the high ground upon the eastern side of the river, in the county of Down, and connected, by means of four stone bridges, with the smaller and more modern portion which is on the other side of the river, and in the county of Armagh. The port of Newry admits vessels of 1000 tons to Warrenpoint, 6|- miles below the town, where the large vessels remain, while those drawing not more than 15 feet of water can go up by the ship-canal to Newry. Steamers ply regularly thrice a week betwixt Newry and Liverpool, a distance of 153 miles — fare 10s. The rise of the towTi may be traced to the 16th century, when Sir Nicholas Bagnal, Marshall of Ireland, rebuilt it, erecting at the same time a church and castle. There is no doubt, however, of the existence of the town at a much earlier date, seeing that an abbey for Cistercian moiiks, of which nothing now remains, was founded in it in 1 1 5 7, by Maurice MacLaugh- lin, king of Ireland. At the Dissolution, the powers and privileges enjoyed by the Lord Abbot were transferred to the temporal proprietor, Sir Nicholas Bagnal. The present owner of the lordship of Newry is the Earl of Kilmorey, who has power to grant marriage-licences, and aU the plenary powers of the Ecclesiastical Courts. A granite obelisk stands at the east end of the town, erected to th© late Trevor Corry by his fellow townsmen. 346 ROSSTREYOR. PORTADOWN"^ 25 m. from Belfast, is a smaU town advantageously situated for trade on tlie upper river Bann, which is here navigable by vessels of 60 tons burden, and communicates with the Newry Canal, near the town. The river falls into Lough Neagh, about 7 miles below the town, and from thence, by means of the Ulster Canal, merchandise can be conveyed to Enniskillen. Here also a branch line proceeds in a south-western direction to Armagh, about 10 miles distant, and another to Dun- gannon and Omagh. ROSSTREYOR, the " Montpelier of Ireland," is but 3 miles from Warrenpoint station, and has a good hotel. Rosstrevor took its present name on passing into the possession of the Trevors, from the name of its new proprietors, and the Irish word EosSj which signifies a headland ; or, according to some authorities, from an heiress whose name was Rose marrying into the family of Trevors, Viscounts of Dungannon. The town is situated on the ris- ing ground overlooking the bay, with a background of mountains, in a most beautiful neighbourhood, well wooded and plentifully sprinkled with villas. In the market-place is a handsome church. On the beach, with a background of rough mountain, rises an obelisk with an appropriate inscription to the memory of General Ross, a native of Rosstrevor, who fell at the battle of Baltimore in 1814. The chief attraction at Rosstrevor is the bay, which all the way from Warrenpoint has the appearance of a spacious lake, in the midst of woods and mountains. " Clough More," or the great stone, an immense granite boulder, stands on a projecting shoulder of the hill above the town, where an extensive view may be obtained. The ascent to it may be made from near the quay. WARRENPOINT {Hotels: Victoria and Crown ; Royal. Cars to Kilkeel, to Newcastle, and to Rostrevor), 5 m. from Newry by rail, is delightfully situated at the very WARRENPOINT. 347 head of Carlingford Bay. It is a favourite bathing-station, with pure clear water, a gently shelving shore covered with small round pebbles, free from mud or sea-weed, and a beautiful neighbourhood. In one part the houses form a little square, and in another stretch along the edge of the shore, where there is a convenient quay, at which there are in general several sailing and steam vessels. There was formerly a very extensive rabbit-warren here, from which circumstance the place derives its name. Narrow Water Castle stands on the road between Warrenpoint and Newry, 2 m. from the former. The broad surface of the river is here contracted by a low pro- truding rock, once an island, on whose surface stands the old castle , in a position that enables it to command, in the most entire manner, the only pass to the town of Newry. The date of its foundation is not precisely known, but was subsequent to the Eestoration, and its erection is ascribed to the Duke of Ormonde. The position of the castle is strikingly picturesque. On a rocky mound in the river its square keep rises like a solitary sentinel, amid a happy combination of wood, water, and mountain. Narrow "Water Castle was looked upon as the key to Newry, and from its position was well calculated either for the purpose of defence or exaction of toll. It was subsequently let to a salt-manufacturer, and at a still later period used as a dog- kennel ; but the good taste of the present proprietor has restored it to its original appearance, and made it an effec- tive feature in the landscape. A causeway had been formed to connect it with the shore, and so admirably had this work been accomplished, that several engineers of eminence, when consulted as to the practicability of its removal, de- clared it to be a natural formation. On the rising ground to the right of the old castle stands a modern turreted castle, in the Tudor style, erected by Eoger Hall, Esq The avenue leading to this house is two miles long, and overshadowed with fine timber. 348 BELFAST TO NEWCASTLE. RAILWAY ITINERARY To Bangor, Donaghadee, Downpatrick, and Newcastle. Saintfield House, seat of J. C. Price, ^ 3 m. BallmaMncli Montalto demesne, D. S. Ker, Esq., M.P. 2 m. south. . P. 349. The 2 m. west. Ruins of Abbey of Inch. P. 362. S:S' 2 m, Seaforde House, Lt.-CoL Forde. Belfast. Queen's Bridge Ter- minus. Dundonald Derives its name from a large earthern fort; which stands be- side the church." — Comber, Saintfield, BallinahiiiolL Junction. Crossgar. Downpatrick. Hotels : Prince's Arms, Victoria. Rail terminates. By Car or Omnihus to Clough. Dundrum; Downshire Arms. Newcastle. Hotel: Annesley Arms. 15i ITf 21J 13 HOLYWOOD, 4^ m. Bangor, 12 m. Branch to Newtown- Ards, 13^ m., and Donaghadee, 22 m. 4 m. Killyleaqh. S^ Killyleagh Castle, seat of Gawen R. Hamilton, Esq., p. 365. 349 Places of Interest arranged Alphabetically. Ardglass. Ballinahiiich. Bangor