J THE ONE MAID COOKERY BOOK THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Some 'Press Opinions Ladies' Field. — "This is such an excellent little book that I cannot forbear mentioning it here." Field. — "Will be welcomed alike by the beginner and those of more mature experience." Spectator. — *'*The One Maid Book of Cookery' gives, besides many well-thought-out receipts, some excellent advice on the art of housekeeping." Pall Mall Gazette. — "Now that so many people live in flats, and have only accommodation for one maid, a * One Maid Book of Cookery ' is a good idea." World. — " No mere collection of recipes, but a real culinary manual which ought to enable any maid-of-all- work to turn out decently-cooked dishes, and any housewife with but one servant to provide agreeable menus for the most exacting of * beasts.' " New Statesman. — "A book by whose aid any intelligent person, however inexperienced, should be able to cook a simple dinner successfully. It contains hints concerning shopping and the general management of a kitchen which beginners will find extremely useful." Daily Graphic. — " For the young housewife who has to carry out her domestic duties in a small house, and for the business girl in a flat with but one maid to assist, a useful cookery book has been published which will make a useful addition to the culinary library." THE ONE MAID COOKERY BOOK BY MISTRESS A. E. CONGREVE FIRST-CLASS DIPLOMEE E. P. BUTTON AND COMPANY 68i FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK WYMAS AKD SONS LTD., PRINTERS, fcOMDON AND ReABING, ENGLAND. JO FOREWORD The conditions of living are fast changing, the number of gentle people living in small houses and flats run with One Maid, or with no maid at all is rapidly increasing. The One Maid Book of Cookerv is specially written with a view to these modern conditions. It is a book of Cookery (not a book of recipes) and as such must be read if to be of any real use. It is strongly urged that the chief methods of cookery together with their principles be mastered before practical work is started. Before using a recipe the notes at the commencement of the partic- ular chapter should be carefully studied. Obviously it is impossible to repeat minute instructions with each recipe. The Index should be referred to in any difficulty. It is hoped that the One Maid Book of Cookery (aptly named by its publisher) may help in the attainment of that 'peace of mind and har- mony within* to which all aspire. A. E. CONGREVE. Hove, 1913. CONTENTS PAOB THE ART OF COOKERY 9 THE ART OF CATERING 12 THE ART OF SHOPPING 15 THE KITCHEN AND UTENSILS 19 THE SCULLERY AND WASHING UP . . . . 22 THE STORE CUPBOARD 25 THE LARDER 27 COOKERY METHODS AND THEIR PRINCIPLES . 28 SOUPS 39 FISH 49 MEAT 61 POULTRY AND GAME 77 VEGETABLES 85 SALADS .100 SAUCES, GRAVIES, FORCEMEATS . . . .106 SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES . . . .115 EGGS .......... 122 SWEET DISI-IES 128 PASTRIES, PIES, PUDDINGS 147 CONTENTS PAGE BREAD AND ROLLS •164 CAKES 170 THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 184 DRINKS 200 JAMS AND JELLIES 204 TABLE OF CONTENTS .211 : :the one maid: : book of cookery THE ART OF COOKERY OOKERY is the art of preparing food for use by the aid of heat, or rendering it palat- able and easy to digest, the aim being to get the maximum of nutriment and flavour out of the material available. With this end in view, methods of cookery have been evolved which require to be known and understood, together with the principles on which they are based, otherwise much of the nourishment and value of food is wasted, and it may become a fruitful source of digestive trouble. An Eastern writer lately called attention to the fact that natives of so many countries cook excel- lently without having had any training. Ask them how they cook, and they will answer with their own proverb *0n each occasion use your sense accordingly.' In this country there are some born cooks, but they are few and far between. It is probable that the overloading of the brain with book-learning knocks out much of what we call common sense. We have Schools of Cookery and 9 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Books of Cookery to help the large number of mistresses and maids who find themselves in the position of having to run a house in complete ignorance of the principles of Domestic Economy. Only practice and experience will make a cook, though books and lessons will help. Much can be learnt by studying physiology (particularly the processes of digestion and assimilation), the chem- istry of Food and Food Values, and by learning the several methods and principles of cookery. With some knowledge and common sense practical work soon becomes easy. In cookery, method is important and there is a reason why for everything. Recipes are of little value without a knowledge of how to work them, what ingredients can be omitted without spoiling the result, and what substitutes can be used. Cook- ery is not an exact science, many recipes cannot be accurately written. For instance, * take two onions' : an onion may weigh a pound or an ounce. What size of onion is to be used? The answer is 'on each occasion use your sense accordingly.' The importance of the subject of Food and its preparation is beyond question : standing as it does for health, efficiency and happiness, or the reverse. 'Show me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.* Where every home contains a kitchen, it is unpardonable that girls of all classes should not be able to cook, and incredible that anyone should put up with bad or badly prepared food. The neglect of the Domestic x\rts can only be accounted for by the fact that, generally speak- 10 THE ART OF COOKERY ing, their importance and interest are not recog- nised. Here I will plead for the fair treatment of good food. Meals should be given a certain dignity and due time allowed for their enjoyment. The cook should not be blamed for troubles that arise from insufficient and hurried mastication, or for dishes spoilt through unpunctuality. It is well to remember, moreover, that adverse criticism always reaches the kitchen. Cooks are human, and enjoy praise and appreciation when deserved as much as anyone else. Food is fuel for the body, providing material for building, repairing, and warming. To eat is a necessity and a duty, it should also be a pleasure. Without being a 'gourmand' it is well to be a * gourmet,' to possess both knowledge and palate to enjoy and encourage the production of good food. Shopping, housekeeping, and cooking, are games that are beloved in childhood. Later on the game becomes a serious occupation, enjoyable or not according to the skill with which it is played- II THE ART OF CATERING THE art of catering is to provide, with due regard to efficiency and health, the dailj; food of a household. It is essentia] that it should be well chosen, well cooked, and well served and no thought or trouble is wasted which accomplishes this. Complaints should be listened to and investigated, when justified the housekeeper should accept the blame. Monotony should be avoided, there is no excuse for it in this country. When shops are easy of access all perishable stuff should be bought in small quantities, so that there may be fresh food daily, and few or no scraps to use up. Each day's food should be complete and harmonious in itself. If lunch has been poor, dinner must make up for it; if meat be scanty, a good soup, savoury dish or fish shquld be served at the same meal; if uninter- esting, a choice vegetable should accompany it. If salt bacon has been the breakfast dish, avoid salt meat for dinner, if pastry has been served at lunch avoid a pie for dinner. If the soup be a white one the fish following it should be browned ; if the meat be boiled, a blancmange should not follow it. One rich dish will be enjoyed, two may produce discom- fort. Roast pork would tax the digestion if served after scolloped lobster. Few of us would deliber- 12 THE ART OF CATERING ately eat half a dozen eggs in a day, but in the form of custards, souffles, omelettes, that number may easily be exceeded. The butter and flour founda- tion termed a Roux, white or brown (see Sauces) may be unduly repeated in one meal; in a thick soup, in sauces, with fish, entree, vegetables, fowl; in souffles and savouries. Where meat is omitted from a menu, eggs, milk, butter or cheese (the most valuable of animal foods) will make good the deficiency; or peas and beans, fresh or dried (the most valuable of vegetable foods) may be substituted. In cold weather food of a warming character (that is containing fat, sugars and starch) should be served, hot if possible; cocoa, oatmeal, porridge with cream, hot thick soups and stews, suet pud- dings are all typical cold-weather foods. On the other hand in warm weather food should be light; clear soups, fish, poultry, eggs, junkets, vegetables, salads and much fruit. A hurried meal should always be light and short, one that is easily eaten and digested. Fruit is a most valuable and necessary food, it is frequently advisable to substitute it for pudding, where both cannot be provided. Where one pair of hands does the work of a house or flat the catering must be carefully planned, so that sufficient time is allowed for good cooking; and no menus should be drawn up which cannot be successfully carried out. (It is well to remembei that well cooked food is an essential, the polishing of silver a non-essential.) 13 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Breakfast and lunch should be simple, as time is valuable in the mornings. A stew can be prepared early and practically cooks itself; potatoes can be roasted in their skins, saving the amount of time wasted and nourishment lost by peeling them before cooking. A fish or a chop is grilled in a few minutes. Earthenware and fireproof cooking utensils and dishes are invaluable; in them food is excellently and easily cooked and they may be put straight on the table thus avoiding dishing up : also a hot dinner is easily managed even on the weekly 'evening out.* Soup in a marmite, stew in a casserole, a French pie, baked fish, are among the dishes which may be kept hot without spoiling over gentle heat, with an asbestos mat under to prevent burning. It is neither possible nor practicable to arrange the daily food of unknown households; tastes differ, means, material available and other conditions vary. It is often difficult to cater when one's view is limited to the larder, whereas ideas and inspirations come readily with the sight of well-furnished shops. The table of contents of the One Maid Cookery Book has been carefully com- piled with the view of helping the young house- keeper to plan food for the day, and the chapter entitled 'The Larder and Scraps* gives many reci- pes for the using up of left-overs. 14 THE ART OF SHOPPING THE art of shopping is to get the best possible value for the sraallest possible expenditure. It is always advisable that a housekeeper should personally choose the daily food ; where means are limited it is absolutely essential. Experience only can teach how to recognise quality and condition, to determine the quantity of food required and to know what prices are reasonable. With food the golden rule is to buy the best of everything, 'the best' meaning quality, not size or fashion. It is sometimes the most expensive; but always the most economical in use ; there is more value and satisfaction in a small quantity of good material than in a large quantity of poor quality. Who would hesitate between one new laid egg and two doubtful eggs? All food should be fresh, it is then palatable, wholesome and nourishing, and less of it is required. Shopkeepers are to blame in allowing so much good material to deteriorate and waste ; all perishable goods should be renewed daily, since dangerous chemical changes rapidly take place in many foods through being kept in stock. What is good to-day may be indigestible to-morrow and poisonous the day after. 'The stomach is lord of the body,* and it does not pay to cheat him. 15 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Eggs must always be fresh, the theory that stale eggs may be used for cooking is both inexplicable and dangerous. An egg held up before a lighted candle should appear clear if fresh. Appearance and smell will tell even the inexperienced when an opened egg is stale. Butter for all purposes must be pure. Cooking butter, so called, contains a large proportion of water and salt, and often has a very strong and objectionable flavour. An ounce of pure butter gives a better result than an ounce and a half of cooking butter, and the cost is the same. Where a substitute is wanted dripping, lard or any vegetable fat should be used. Butter should be carefully and speedily carried home, and after removing from the paper, should be put into the lardeif. Butter once softened by the sun or kitchen heat will be greasy and will never harden properly. Fish rapidly deteriorates. The choice should be of that which is in season and in abundance and consequently in the best condition. A fresh fish is stiS, the skin, eyes and gills are bright, and the smell not unpleasant. Meat should be most carefully chosen. Where possible a butcher should be selected who uses a glass screen to keep the road dust off the meat ; it should be explained to him, where the household is small, that the quantities purchased will be small, but that the best qualit}'- only will be required. The eye can be trained to recognise qualit}?- in meat by comparing the contents of a first-class shop with those of an inferior one. Beef should be firm, the i6 THE ART OF SHOPPING lean a bright red and in the best meat is inter- grained with fat, the fat a creamy colour. Mutton should be firm, the lean darker than beef, the fat whiter and harder. Lamb, an immature meat, is lighter in colour than mutton. Veal, also an imma- ture meat, should be very light in colour, as it is bled, and must be small. Pork should be dairy fed, small, firm, and with a thin skin. Bacon of good quality is firm, the fat a clean white, the lean a good red. In the chapter on Meat, joints and pieces suitable for a small family are given. A chicken should have a smooth skin ; vv-hen the bird is young the end of the breast bone is gristle and is easily bent. Game that is tainted should never be purchased. A young rabbit has soft ears and sharp claws, the inside is a bright pink. Root vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, onions at their best when young and freshly dug, may be bought in quantities and kept in a wire vegetable stand, they should always be firm : Green vege- tables should be fresh and crisp. Fruit, ripe and sound, is an important item in the day's cater- ing. Unripe fruit is usually bought for cooking. Bruised fruit is dear at any price, the damaged parts are waste and the remainder is often unwhole- some. Soft fruits, such as pears, greengages, med- lars, and all berries should be carried home in baskets or trays, and not in paper bags. The best methods of growing, packing and delivering are encouraged by purchasers insisting on all fruit being sound and in good condition. Dried fruits are at their best at the beginning THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY of the winter season, especially dates, figs, and raisins. In buying groceries it is well to examine the different sugars, rices, &c., kept in stock, and to smell the various teas and coffees; in fact, the housekeeper should educate herself to recognise thfi many qualities and varieties instead of choosing by price alone. The housekeeper should always aim at avoiding monotony and be constantly on the lookout for novelties. New biscuits, jams, pickles, are frequently put on the market. Bread. There are many different kinds of bread, and a change is always welcome. Wholemeal and brown bread should be often on the table. i8 THE KITCHEN AND UTENSILS THE kitchen should be arranged with due regard to convenience, and ease in keep- ing clean. It should have good fitted cupboards and shelves; the floor should be cov- ered with linoleum, the walls with a light wash- able distemper, or varnished paper. A wash- ing curtain should be adopted in preference to a blind as it takes off less light. A rod of light brass should be fixed about six inches below the top of the window, so that steam and smell mav escape even when the curtain is drawn. In smoky towns a strip of fine wire gauze should be fitted at the top of the window frame to keep out smuts. iThe table should be of a convenient height, covered with a light linoleum, or American cloth. Both table and chairs should be fitted with Domes of Silence, for easy moving. The dresser should be stained, varnished or painted. Soft white wood is not easy to keep clean, or to dry. The Stove. A stove for cooking should be placed in a convenient position for light, and should stand out from the wall. It is wise to learn the construction and working of the stove one has to use. Where gas is available a cooker should be hired from the local gas company. One of the latest improvements is a plate-rack with an enamel- 19 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY led back which is fixed on the cooker. No one having used gas for cooking would willingly revert to other methods. Gas is always ready, clean and economical, giving and maintaining any degree of heat required. There is no stoking and more time and thought can be given to cooking. To keep a stove clean, it should alv/ays be rubbed over with soft paper after using. (A bag to hold paper should hang in a convenient place in every kitchen). The burners should be regularly brushed and kept clear, the stove occasionally black-leaded, the steels kept bright with emery paper. The following list of kitchen furnishings may be taken as suggestions only. Good and sufficient utensils must be provided if good work is expected. Small and inexpensive tools aiming at economy of labour are constantly invented. Wood. A Chopping Board, Pastry Board, Hair Sieve, Wire Sieve, Rolling Pin, Stand lor t!,^gs, small Spoons, Pastry Brush, Vegetable Brush, Flat Wire Brush, Scrubbing Brush, String Mop, Pot Brush. Enamel. Pint, Half Pint, Gill Measures, Bath for Washing Up, Basins, Pail, Colander, Sink Basket, Spice Box, Spoons, Flour Tin, Tins for Groceries. China. Jugs, Basins, Coffee Jug and Milk Jug, Pie Dish, Fireproof China Oval Dishes, Souffle Dish, and small Cups, a French Pie Dish, Glass Lemon Squeezer. Metal. A Wire Stand for Vegetables, Wire Frying Spoon, Egg Whisk, Fat Strainer, Gravy 20 THE KITCHEN AND UTENSILS Strainer, Flour Sifter, Grater, Potato Masher, Skewers, Apple Corer, Tin Opener, Corkscrew, Pastry Cutters, Cake Tins, flat Tins with holes for little Cakes, Baking Tins, Yorkshire Pudding Tin, Patty Tins, Cook's Knives (one medium, one small). Kitchen Knives and Forks, Spatula (Palette Knife), Knife Tray, Medium Basting Spoon, Table Spoon, Tea Spoons, Knife Sharpener, flat Irons, Iron Stand and Slipper, Asbestos Mats and Kettle Holder, Kettles, a Steel or other light Sauce- pan with a steamer to fit. An unlined Steel Stew- pan for frying', with a frying basket to fit. A Stand for Saucepans. Earthenware. Baking Dishes, Casseroles, Mar- mites, a Devil (for Roasting Potatoes), Bread Pan. Scales, a Looking Glass, a reliable Clock. 31 THE SCULLERY AND WASHING-UP THE art in washing-up is to carry it out effectively in a cleanly and orderly manner, with the minimum of labour. The follow- ing articles are required : — An enamel bath or basin, some soda, boiling water. A basin with cold water for rinsing. A string mop, as hands should never go into soda-water and the water can thus be really boiling. A draining-board, usually fastened at the side of the sink. A plate rack : small racks to stand are now made in wood, and may be folded-up when not in use ; these will take small plates, saucers, cups, etc., and save much drying. A soft linen cloth for wiping and polishing glass. A. heavy linen towel for drying china, etc. ; strong coarse huckaback is the best and most econo- mical in use; when washing and rinsing are well done there are few dirty cloths. A leather for polishing silver : if silver is kept well washed, and rubbed, cleaning is not often required. A knife cleaner : small and simple ones are now 22 THE SCULLERY AND WASHING-UP to be had ; knives are easily cleaned if done at once. A thick apron ; a leather one is a good investment. The sleeves should be well tucked-up. Every- thing should be arranged neatly and the cleanest things washed first, such as glasses, these often require only a rinse, dry and polish. Then silver : wipe spoons and forks with soft paper, wash, rinse, drain, dry and polish. Next cups and saucers, dishes and plates; scrape off all pieces, and when greasy wipe them over with paper. All china is washed with the mop, then rinsed, drained, dried and polished. There is an art in drying, a final light rub gives a polish to china. Knives are wiped with soft paper, dipped in the soda-water, rinsed and drained. They clean easily when damp, and require careful rubbing afterwards in order to remove all powder. Barthenware pans are wiped out with paper; then washed with a pot brush, rinsed and turned over to dry. To clean metal pans, first wipe them out, if necessary boil up with water and soda, then use a pot brush or flat wire brush. This latter is a most effective cleaner, it must be used flat, and cleans both the outside and inside of pans and kettles. It is not practical to keep utensils that are in daily use in a high state of polish. Where labour is limited and time valuable, an array of 'kitchen gods' on the mantelpiece is not to be encouraged. Those tins that are always used greased, such as cake tins, should be well rubbed with soft paper and not washed or polished. Wooden articles, 23 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY '^oards, spoons, etc., should if possible dry in the open air. They must never be put away damp. The Sink. There should always be a sink basket for pieces. If all dirty water is poured through this, there is no fear of a stoppage in the pipe. A sink cleaner (a small flat shovel) is also useful. Boiling water should be poured down the pipe once a day, but where paper is used as suggested for rubbing over plates and dishes there is little grease left in the sink. Taps should be fitted with anti- splash nozzles. 24 A THE STORE CUPBOARD GOOD store Cupboard is a necessity. It should be well stocked at the start of house-keeping, and can then be kept up at a small weekly expenditure. A slate and pencil should hang in the cupboard, and a note be made of anything exhausted. There should be tins or jars to hold the groceries. The following list must be taken as suggestive only, no two households have the same require- ments. Tea, Coffee, Cocoa. Sugars : loaf, raw, castor. Flour, Cornflour, Paisley Flour, Baking powder, Maccaroni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli, Italian Paste. Sago, Tapioca, Rice, Patna Rice, Pearl Barley, Oatmeal, Groats. Table Salt (jar or tin), Table Salt (id packet) for cooking. Mustard, Salad Oil, Malt Vinegar, Tarragon Vinegar, Chutney. Pickles, Pepper (white or black). Coralline Pepper, Cayenne, Peppercorns, Nutmegs, Cloves, Ginger, Carra- ways. Cinnamon. Sauces : Anchovy, Tomato, Worcester, Mush- room. Glaze (glass jar), Lemco, Marmite, Curry Pow- der, Jam. Essences : Lemon, Vanilla, Cherry, Raspberry, 25 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Carmine, Rennet tablets, Raisins, Currants, vSul tanas, Mixed Peel. Almonds, Coconut, Walnuts, Pistache kernels. Glace Cherries, Angelica, Violets, Roseleaves. Dried Butter Beans, Haricot Beans, Peas. Biscuits (in 5^ lb. packets) : sweet, plain, savoury. Soda, Soaps, Matches, Candles, Tapers, Knife Powder, Whitening, Ammonia (household), Emery, Blacklead, Blacking, Ronuk, Brass Polish, Stout Kitchen Paper. Dish Papers, Swabs, Housemaid's Gloves, Lea- ther. The following should be kept in the larder : — Butter, Lard, Suet (block), Bacon, Eggs. Tinned Lunch Tongue, Soup, Sardines, Potted Meat, Fruits, and Golden Syrup. 26 THE LARDER THE Larder, or Safe for the keeping of food, should be so placed that fresh air circulates freely through, the windows fitted with fine wire gauze, and when necessary lined with white muslin, which is easily removed for washing. The danger of flies as carriers of germs is now well understood, and they must be kept out of the larder. Walls should be lime-washed, or have a varnished paper. The floor should be tiled, or if of wood, covered with linoleum, the shelves covered with white American cloth, or linoleum, both easily wiped over. Milk should be kept in jugs or basins, with alu- minium or muslin covers. Butter should be kept in a cooler, the water renewed daily. Eggs should be kept on a wooden stand. Fine wire gauze dish covers should be provided for meat, a crock or other pan for bread (to be emptied regularly) and a wire stand for vegetables. The contents of the larder should all be seen and smelt daily, and nothing kept that has a suspicion • of taint. An important point is that nothing should be put away in the larder while hot. 27 COOKERY METHODS AND THEIR PRINCIPLES THE chief methods used in cookery are : — Roasting, Grilling, Boiling, Steaming, Stewing, Braising, Frying, and Baking. With most of these methods the principle is the same, namely, to keep in the juices and goodness of what is being cooked. With that object in view the procedure is the same with each method; to expose at once to great heat in order to scorch the outside. In most cases the heat is reduced after about ten minutes, so as to avoid cooking too quickly and hardening throughout. Stev/ing is a method always used where food is tough; the long, slow cooking softens hard fibres, the juices lost from the meat are found in the gravy. In Stock-making, the principle is. to draw out the juices, etc., from meat and bones, first by soaking in cold water, then by gradually warming up and digesting. Roasting. — Properly speaking this is cooking in front of a fire, the meat hanging on a hook. Fires are now much reduced in size, ovens (those of Gas Cookers especially) well ventilated, and, with e^T&y roasting in the oven is excellently done. With these advantages, less heat is necessary, the meat requires less basting, and loses less in weight. In 28 COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES either case the principle is the same, the meat is exposed to great heat for the first ten minutes, m order to harden the albumen on the outside, to close the pores, to form a skin which will keep in the juices of the meat. The heat is then reduced, and cooking finished slowly, or the jneat would harden all the way through. If a fire is used, it is made up to a clear red heat. If a Gas Oven, the burners are lit, turned on full (or nearly so, according to the pressure of the gas), the door closed, and in ten minutes it will be ready for use. The meat is placed on a stand in a baking tin; or on an earthenware baking dish. These dishes are delightful in use, the fat does not splutter or burn, they can be sent to table, and are easily cleaned. A good deal of dripping or other fat must be put on and round the meat, and the tin or dish must be large enough to allow room for basting. To baste is to pour melted fat over whatever is roasting, taking it up with a large metal spoon. A rough cloth should be put over the hand in case of splashing, the oven door kept open for as short a time as possible. The more frequently basted the more juicy the meat will be, and the less it will lose in weight. Lean meat requires more basting than that which is fat. Where it is not possible to give a roast constant attention, it should be covered over with a well-greased paper, which should be tucked in all round. As an alternative, thick slices of fat bacon (all fat) may be tied or skewered on. The same rules apply to the roasting of birds. 29 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Times for roasting, cannot be accurately given. A joint that is thick and solid meat will take longer than one of the same weight which is thinner and contains bone. White and immature meat requires to be better cooked than brown meat. Beef may be underdone. Pork is uneatable unless thoroughly cooked. Extra time for cooking must be allowed in cold weather. Frozen meat must thaw slowly before being cooked. An average Time Table is : — Beef and Mutton, to each lb. 15 minutes, and 15 minutes over. If a thick piece, to each lb. 20 minutes, and 20 minutes over. Pork and Veal, to each lb. 20 minutes, and 20 minutes over. If a thick piece, to each lb. 25 minutes, and 25 minutes over. Baking. — All baking requires a hot oven. Bread, pastry, and cakes contain yeast, or Baking Pow- der. These when moistened and warmed generate a gas, which pushes up or raises the dough. The heat of the oven hastens this rising, and sets the raised bread or cake. If the heat is not suffici- ent the dough will not rise properly, if the heat is not maintained for a sufficient time the dough will rise and go down again. (Take a spoonful of Bak- ing Powder, add a little water to it, and its action will be seen.) Broiling or Grilling. — This is the quickest of cookery methods but suitable only for small pieces of meat, fish, etc. Grilling takes place over, 30 COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES or in front of the fire, or in the case of gas, under the grill. The fire must be clear and red, or the grill made red hot. The principle in grilling (as in roasting) is to scorch the outside at once, forming a skin to keep in the juices. The gridiron is rubbed over with fat to prevent sticking. The meat, fish, etc., to be grilled is brushed over with oil, liquid butter or fat. If thick, it is scored, cutting across with a sharp knife so that the heat gets quickly through. The fish or meat is turned when brown on one side, a knife being used, as, if pricked with a fork, the juice will run out. A grill must be served as soon as it is ready, in fact the table must wait for a grill. Boiling. — To boil is to cook in boiling water. Water boils at a temperature of 212 degrees, when bubbles rise freely in the centre of the pan. To boil meat, it is placed in boiling water, and kept at the same temperature for ten minutes. The prin- ciple is the same as in roasting and grilling, the hardening of the albumen on the outside, thus form- ing a skin to keep in the juices. After ten minutes boiling the heat is reduced and the meat simmered only until done. In simmering, bubbles rise slowly in a corner only of the pan. If meat is boiled all the time, it becomes tough, indigestible, and taste- less. All scum must be carefully removed (a little salt helps it to rise), or it may spoil the appearance of the meat, and will make the stock muddy. In boiling meat, fowl, etc., it is well to put any bones that have previously been removed at the bottom of the pan, the meat standing on them, or on a wire 31 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY stand. The water should be sufficient to touch but not to cover the meat; so that it is really cooked in steam. The same rules apply to the boiling of birds. Times for Boiling, cannot be accurately given, they depend on thickness, bone or no bone, tem- perature and other conditions. An average time is to each lb. 20 minutes, and 20 minutes over. Salt meat requires more time, and more water, and is put into warm water to cook. In the process of pickling much of the goodness is drawn out, so that salt meat is less nourishing than fresh. It requires long simmering to make it tender, as salt hardens the fibre. Dried Salt Meat, such as ham, requires soaking for some hours; the moisture which has been eva- porated must be replaced. To cook, put it in a pan of cold water, bring very slowly to the boil and simmer slowly for a long time. An average time for a small piece is to each lb. 30 minutes or more according to thickness. In all cases boiling counts from the time when the water, with the meat in it, reaches boiling point. This is important. Dried meat may take an hour to reach this point, and during this time the meat, though warming through, is not cooking. It is also important that boiling or simmering be continuous, and the lid of the pan should be occasionally raised to see that the heat is maintained. With gas there is no difficulty, the burners can be regulated to give the exact amount of heat necessary to keep the water at the required temperature. 32 COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES Steaming is boiling in steam. With meat, fish, birds, puddings, etc., it is, generally speaking, an easier method than boiling in water, and gives better results ; flavour is retained, the flesh is more tender, and less bulk and goodness are lost. A steamer is a tin pan, the bottom pierced with many holes, which fits over a sauce-pan. In the lower pan water is kept boiling, and the steam rising through the holes cooks whatever is in the steamer. With a steamer two dishes can be cooked with the heat and space required for one; for instance, meat may be boiling in the sauce-pan, potatoes in their skins or a pudding in the steamer. Or steaming may take place in a sauce-pah, placing the meat or pudding on a wire stand (see Boiling) so that it stands above the water and is cooked in steam. In steaming birds, the breast is covered with strong greased paper to keep off drops which fall from the lid. Steaming requires rather more time than boiling. Braising. — True braising is cooking in a pan with heat above and below. A special braising pan has a deep lid on which hot coals are placed. The same result is now attained by putting a casserole in the oven. The casserole is lined with fat bacon (see recipes), a small quantity of water or stock is used, and cooking is very slow and gentle. When ready the stock should be reduced to a glaze. It is now usual, and in a small household more economi- cal, to reduce the time for braising, and to brush over the meat or bird with bought glaze. Meat is often braised on the top of the stove. » 33 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Stewing. — This is a slow process, producing savoury dishes, and a most useful one in a small establishment. A stew can be made early in the day and warmed up; it can be kept hot for a long time and, with care, rather improves than deterior- ates, an occasional stir being all it requires. It is wise to put an asbestos mat under the pan to pre- vent sticking. In stewing, the meat, etc., is put in an earthenware or other pan with cold water, which is very slowly brought up to simmering point (when the water bubbles slowly in a corner of the pan) and kept at that temperature. The time required will depend on the size and degree of hardness of meat or bird ; almost ^ny tough meat can be made tender by stewing if given sufficient time (a spoon- ful of vinegar in the water helps to soften hard fibres). An Irish stew will take about two hours. Ox tail requires four hours. It is easy to ascertain with a fork when the meat is tender. A brown stew is coloured by frying onions, meat, etc., before stewing. In this stew the gravy is generally thickened with flour; this flour must be well cooked, the best plan being to fry it with other ingredients as given in recipes. In stewing much of the goodness is drawn into the gravy. As meat and grav3^ are eaten together there is no loss of nourishment. Stews should be served in the casserole in which they are cooked, or in a deep dish ; and small soup plates are advisable so as to avoid waste of the gravy. Frying. — This method is sometimes called Trench' or 'Wet frying.' To fry is to boil in hot 34 COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES fat or oil. Water boils at 212 degrees, fat boils at 350 degrees (some oils reach a higher temperature), and at that heat cooks very quickly, and browns. In using fat, the high temperature must be kept in mind ; whatever is to be fried must be slipped in slowly and gently; a splash means a burn, should the fat come into contact with lighted gas it will ignite. Water bubbles when it boils, fat is still and gives off a blue smoke when ready. It should then be at once used, or taken off the gas, or it quickly burns and spoils. All rendered animal or vegetable fats are good mediums for frying, pro- vided they are pure and contain no water, salt or other substance. As there must be sufficient to cover the article to be fried, the 'frying fat' should be started with about 2 lbs. of Hugon's block suet, or rendered fat (see directions). Once started this fat should be kept up, as it reduces with use, -adding to it any raw fat trimmed off meat, after rendering. The frying fat is kept clean by taking off any scum rising to the surface, and carefully straining through a fine sieve after using, to remove crumbs, etc., which would otherwise burn and spoil the fat. Fat must be left to cool a little before straining, or the great heat may unsolder the strainer. It should not be put in the larder until cold. The same fat can be used over and over again. Whatever is to be fried (fish, rissoles, etc.) is rubbed in flour, egg and breadcrumb, or batter, etc. The great heat sets this at once, forming a skin ; so that the fat does not touch the substance of fish or meat, and cannot become flavoured. When the fat becomes a bad colour and exhausted, 35 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY as it will in timCj a fresh 'frying fat* should be started. An unlined iron and steel stewpan is used for deep frying, and there should be a wire basket to fit it. This basket greatly facilitates the putting in and taking out of potato chips, rissoles, etc. Or a frying spoon may be used ; this is flat, made of wire, and very open to allow of the fat draining off. Both basket and spoon should be cleaned by rub- bing with soft paper while hot, and should not be washed. When practicable the pan should be cleaned out in the same way. To Fry. — Put the fat in the stewpan and heat (with the basket, if to be used) till the fat is still and smoking. It will take some time. Should the light be bad, and not allow of the smoke being seen, the heat can be tested by putting in a piece of bread ; if it crisps and browns at once, the fat is ready. The article to be fried should be rubbed in flour or e^gg and breadcrumb at the last moment, so as to be dry on the outside, otherwise spitting takes place and the fish, etc., may not be crisp. A small quantity should be fried at a time, or the fat will be unduly chilled. The fat must smoke again between each frying. Generally speaking, a thing fried is ready when a golden brown ; but if thick, the colour must be deeper; no actual times can be given. On taking fried things out of the pan, whether by basket or spoon, these should be tilted a little to run off any fat. They are then placed for a minute on soft paper (crumpled on a tin), so as to drain off any remaining fat. Fried food should be dry. If it be greasy, either it was 36 COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES put into the fat wet, or the fat was not 'boiling' ; or too much was put in at the same time, and the fat chilled. Fried food should be served as soon as it is !' ready, or crispness is lost. No cover should be put on the dish. Dry frying. This is to cook in a fry pan with a small quantity of fat, dripping or butter (a method used for chops, steaks, onions, pancakes, omelettes, etc.). The pan must be hot, and the fat must be smoking before anything is put in to fry. The principle in frying is to make a dry outside by flouring, etc. ; to plunge into boiling fat so that a skin is at once formed, keeping in the goodness of whatever is being cooked. The high tempera- ture of the fat makes frying a quick process. To render fat for frying. Buy 2 lbs. of fat scraps (mixed), add any trimmings of raw fat that may be in the larder. Cut the fat in thin strips, put in an iron saucepan with a small quantity of water, just to prevent burning. Stir occasionally with a steel fork or knife. Simmer till, the water having evaporated, the pieces of skin brown, curl up and float in the oil. Cool the fat and strain into a special basin or pan, it will be white and hard when cold. To clarify dripping. The fat that drips from a joint during the process of roasting is called drip- ping. When cold this fat is taken off the gravy and the under side scraped to remove any brown pieces that may adhere. Dripping is generally used for dry frying. If the fat becomes too dark in colour it may be clarified by putting it in a pan, covering with boiling water and just bringing 37 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY it to boiling point. When quite cold the fat is easily lifted, the under side scraped and all im- purities will be left in the water. Stock making. The making of stock differs from other methods of cookery in that the object is to draw out all juices and goodness by slow simmer- ing, or digesting, instead of to keep them in. Stock is generally made with raw meat, or bones, fish and fish bones, vegetables, etc. An earthen- ware marmite, or casserole, makes an excellent stockpot, and is easily cleaned. Nothing should remain in a stockpot over night. In making stock the bones are broken as small as possible, meat without fat is cut up small. These are covered with cold water, put over a gentle heat, and sim- mered for two or three hours. The water should never reach boiling point. If allowed to boil, the meat will harden and no more goodness will be extracted from it. If the stock is kept on too long, or boiled, the smell is often offensive, and the stock muddy. All scum must be carefully taken off as it rises, the putting in of salt helps to bring it to the surface. If the scum is removed two or three times the stock should be clear and fit for ordinary use. Vegetables to flavour are best put in the last hour of simmering, they give a stale taste to the stock if over cooked. When ready, stock is strained into a basin, and put in the larder when cold, any fat will then float on the surface and can be easily removed. All stock should possess food value, whether used for soup or gravies ; it is better to have a small quantity of good stock than a large Due of poor stuff. 3S SOUPS STOCK is the foundation of most soups and gravies, and is best made in an earthen- ware marmite or stewpot, which must be emptied daily. To make stock, raw meat freed from fat is cut small, bones of meat, poultry, game, rabbits (cooked or uncooked) are broken up, and covered with cold water. The pan is put over gentle heat, and very slowly brought up to simmering point, when the water bubbles gently on one side of the pot. Salt is now added, all scum is carefully removed as long as any rises, and the stock is left to simmer very gently for three or four hours. If the bones are already cooked, simmer for not more than two hours. The last hour add a scraped carrot, an onion stuck with cloves, and half a dozen peppercorns. When the stock is ready, pour it through a wire strainer into a basin. When it is cold remove all fat, which will be floating on the surface, and the stock is ready for ordinary use. It should look clear and clean. A small quantity of Lemco (Meat Extract) or Mar- mite (Vegetable Extract) or a few drops of Caramel will improve the colour if necessary. Caramel is made by browning a lump of sugar in an old iron spoon, holding it over heat till it takes the required colour. If stock is cooked at too great a heat, the 39 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY albumen in meat is hardened, and the juices are not extracted. If it is overcooked, galloped, or not well skimmed, the result is an offensive smell, and a muddy, stale tasting liquor. A small quantity of good stock is of greater value than more of an inferior quality. The water in which meat, poul- try, rabbits and fish have been boiled forms stock. Fish bones and skin and coarse fish will make a good stock for fish soups. The water in which peas and beans have been boiled is a vegetable stock. Soups must always have food value. Where the stock is thin and poor, it can be enriched by adding butter, milk, egg, cheese, meat extract, vegetables, sauces and starches, etc., as required. The clear- ing of soup removes much of the goodness and flavour ; therefore, stock used for a clear soup must be strong. A GOOD STOCK Shin of Beef, 2 lbs. Cloves, 4 ; Pepper- Knuckle of Veal, I lb. corns, 6 Ham or Bacon Bones Salt Cold Water, 3 pints Sugar, i lump Carrot, Onion Proceeding according to directions for making Stock. CLEAR SOUP OR CONSOMME Good Stock, 2 pints Small Carrot Gravy Beef, 4 oz. Onion, Celery Peppercorns, Salt Lump of vSugar Shred the meat as small as possible, put it in a saucepan with the stock and other ingredients. Whisk this over the fire till it nearly boils. Remove 40 SOUPS the whisk, boil for ten minutes, reduce the heat, and let the pan stand on the stove for half an hour. Strain the soup through a linen cloth tied over a basin. Pour very gently; this is best done with a large spoon. If the soup is not quite clear, strain a second time, but this should not be necessary. A lump of sugar added when warming up gives brilli- ancy. A tablespoon of- sherry may be put in the tureen, if liked. The stock may be cleared by using, instead of raw meat, the whites and crushed shells of two eggs. These are put into the stock and whisked till boiling, in the same manner. JULIENNE SOUP A clear soup with finely shredded carrot, turnip, onion, French beans, or a few green peas. The vegetables may be boUed; or cooked in a little butter, drained on paper, and put in the hot soup. ROYAL SOUP A clear soup, with savoury custard. To make the custard, beat up a yolk of &gg with half a gill of stock, season, pour into a small buttered cup or jar, cover with paper and steam very gently for about ten minutes, or till' firm. Let the custard cool, turn it out, cut in squares and put in the tureen with the hot soup. The custard may be divided — one part yellow, one salmon, one green. ITALIAN SOUP All clear stocks may have added to them Italian paste, spaghetti or other maccaronis, vermicelli, or 41 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY rice. These may be boiled in water and warmed in the soup, or, if there is enough stock to allow of reduction, they may be cooked in the soup. Dry grated cheese should be served with these soups. POTATO SOUP Potatoes Stock Onion Milk Butter, I oz. Celery, Salt Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the sliced vegetables, cover, and let them cook for ten minutes without browning. Pour in a little stock, and simmer till the vegetables are tender. Rub through a sieve, return to the pan, add milk, seasoning, and stir till hot and smooth. A little grated cheese may be stirred in at the last moment, or a small quantity of cream. Cooked floury potatoes can be used, putting in the butter when warming them up, after they have been sieved. Artichoke Soup. — This is made with Jerusalem artichokes, in the same way as potato soup. CARROT SOUP Carrots Stock or water, i pint; Butter, 2 oz. or Milk Cornflour, ^ oz. Seasoning Cut the carrots in slices, and put them in the stewpan with an oz. of butter. Cover, and simmer gently for ten minutes. Pour over stock or water, and simmer till the carrots are soft. Rub through a sieve. Melt the second oz. of butter in the pan, 42 SOUPS add the flour, and cook a little. Add some milk and boil to cook the flour. Pour in the puree, and simmer gently for about ten minutes, adding milk or stock to thin if necessary. Season, add a pinch of sugar, and a few drops of carmine for colour. Onion Soup. — Use Spanish onions, and make in the same way as carrot soup. Cabbage Soup. — Prepare a small crisp cabbage, cut it up, and proceed as with carrot soup. MARROW SOUP A Small Marrow Stock or Milk, i pint An Onion Crushed Tapioca, i oz; Butter, I oz. or Semolina Cut up the vegetables, and cook in the butter, as for potato soup. Cover with stock or water, and simmer till tender. Rub through a sieve, and return to the pan, with the tapioca, seasonings, and milk, and simmer till the tapioca is clear, stirring occasionally. TOMATO SOUP Tomatoes, i Yt>. Lean Ham, 2 oz I Onion Butter, i oz. Tapioca, i oz. Stock or Milk, i pint This is made as Marrow Soup. SPINACH SOUP Spinach, 5^ lb. (or less) Stock, i pint; or Milk Butter, I oz. and Water Cornflour, ^ oz. Sugar, i teaspoon 43 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Wash the spinach thoroughly, and cook without water for about ten minutes. Rub it through a sieve. Melt the butter, add the flour, and cook the two together, stirring well. Add the stock or milk, and bring it to a boil. Stir in the puree, season well, and stir till hot. Or cold spinach may be used. GREEN PEA SOUP Peas too old to be eaten as^a vegetable make a good soup. Shell, put them in a stewpot with some butter, cover, and simmer gently for ten minutes. Cover with water, simmer gently till tender (with a sprig of mint). Rub the peas through a sieve, return to the pan, and boil up, stirring well to keep the puree smooth. Add seasoning, a pinch of sugar, and thin with milk as required. A little cream greatly improves this soup. CHESTNUT SOUP Chestnuts, ^ lb. Stock or Milk, i pint Butter, I oz. Cream and Seasoning Slit the chestnuts at both ends and boil them in water for ten minutes. Remove the husks and inner skins. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, put in the nuts, cover, and simmer for a few minutes. Add the stock, and boil till the chest- nuts are soft. Rub through a sieve, return to the pan, add seasoning and a pinch of sugar, and just bring to the boil. A little cream improves this soup. 44 SOUPS MINNESTRONE Butter, 2 oz. Small Onion or Leek Carrot, Turnip A Potato, Tomatoes Cabbage, a small piece Rice, i oz. Cut up all the vegetables except the tomatoes, and simmer in the butter in a stewpan or marmite for ten minutes. Add the stock or water, and bring up to the boil. Sprinkle in the washed rice, a little later put in the quartered tomatoes, pepper ajdd salt. Simmer till the rice is cooked, sprinkle with grated cheese, and serve in the marmite. PEA SOUP Dried Peas, i pint Stock from Boiled Meat Onion, Carrot, Turnip Butter, i oz. The peas may be whole or split, they should soak all night and be well looked over. If there is plenty of stock and it is not salt, the peas may be boiled in it. Or the peas may be boiled in water till tender, they generally require two hours' boil- ing. The second hour put in the other vegetables. Rub all through a sieve, return to the pot, stir to keep smooth, and thin with stock or milk. Add a teaspoon of sugar, a good piece of butter or drip- ping, and serve with powdered mint and fried bread. Haricot Soup, and Butter Bean Soup are both made in the same way as pea soup. VELVET SOUP Tapioca, i oz. Butter, i oz. Milk and Water, i pint Yolk of Egg Cloves, 2 Peppercorns.. 4 Put the milk and water in a small pan with the 45 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY cloves and peppercorns. When it boils, remove the spices, and sprinkle in the finely crushed tapioca. Boil, till this is quite clear, add the seasonings and the butter; and stir over the fire till the butter is melted. Beat the yolk of egg in the tureen, pour the hot soup over very slowly, stirring well. Serve at once. Sago or semolina can be substituted for tapioca, and cream can take the place of the egg. MUTTON BROTH Take stock in which mutton has been boiled, remove the fat. Put it in the stewpot, when boiling add carrot, turnip and onion cut in small dice, 2 or 3 oz. of well washed rice, and seasoning. Boil till the vegetables and rice are cooked. Chop some parsley fine, put it in the tureen, pour the hot broth over, and serve. Pearl barley may be used instead of rice. This should be scalded and soaked, and requires about two hours* boiling. Veal Broth. — Take stock in which veal has boiled, and use as mutton broth. Chicken Broth. — Take stock in which chicken has been boiled, and use as mutton broth. Rabbit Broth. — Take stock in which rabbit and pork have been boiled, and use as mutton broth. Should the stock be too salt, use half stock and half milk. MOCK TURTLE wSOUP Take stock in which half a calf's head has boiled. Fry I oz. of butter and i oz. of flour in a small pan 46 SOUPS till brown, stirring all the time. Add a small tea- spoon of Worcester and tomato sauces, add the stock gradually, and boil for ten minutes. Season with pepper and salt and a pinch of celery salt. Cut some square pieces of the meat from the head and warm in the soup. Just before pouring the soup into the tureen, add a tablespoon of sherry and a small squeeze of lemon. Add Lemco or other browning if necessary to make the soup a good colour. MULLIGATAWNY SOUP Butter, 2 ozs. Chicken or other stock Flour, I oz. Onion, Carrot, Turnip Curry Powder, a Des- or Green Apple sert spoon Salt White vSugar, i teaspoon Melt I oz, butter in a small stewpan, slice the onion and fry it brown, stir in the flour and curry powder, and fry. Cover with stock, put in the other vegetables and simmer till they are soft. Rub all through a sieve. Return to the pot and heat again, adding the sugar, salt, and more stock if necessary. Add Lemco or other browning if required to make the soup a good colour. Dry boiled rice is served with this soup. JYSTER SOUP Butter, I oz. Stock and Milk, i pint Flour or Cornflour, i oz. 6 Oysters or tin of Anchovy Essence, i Oysters teaspoon Salt and Pepper Melt the butter in a small saucepan, lift off the 47 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY fire and stir in the flour, return to the fire and cook lightly. Stir well. Add the stock gradually, add the milk, and simmer for a few minutes. Cut the oysters in halves, warm them in the soup, which must not boil or the oysters will harden. Add a little anchovy essence and a small pinch of cayenne. The stock may be the strained liquor of the oysters, fish, or any white stock. Shrimp Soup. — This is made in the same way as oyster soup. Shrimps are sold ready cooked and picked. Anchovy and a few drops of carmine give flavour and colour. Half milk and half fish stock should be used. LOBSTER SOUP Take a small lobster, break the shell and flake the meat. Put aside the claw pieces. Put the fish and shell in a small stewpan, with a small quantity of water and a piece of carrot and onion to flavour. Simmer very slowly for about 15 minutes. Take out the vegetables and rub the fish through a sieve. Melt an oz. of butter in the stewpan, add yi oz. of flour and, gradually, the stock. Boil for 5 or 6 minutes. Stir in the fish ; add anchovy essence, and a pinch of cayenne. The claw pieces are stirred in to warm at the last. This soup must be thinned with milk or stock if too thick. A little cream put in the tureen, the hot soup poured over it, is a great improvement, or a yolk of ^%g may be added. 48 FISH FISH should be very fresh. Herrings, Mackerel and Sprats especially so. A fish when fresh is stiff, the skin and eyes are bright, the gills are red, and the smell is not unpleasant. In warm weather, or when packed, the condition of a fish rapidly deteriorates, and it maj'^ be necessary to wash it in vinegar and cold water to restore the stiffness; otherwise rinse the inside of the fish under the tap after cleaning, or wipe it with a piece of wet tissue paper only. A small fish is sweeter than a large one. For a small household it is always advantage- ous, to buy slices or the tail end of a small fish. To skin a flat fish. Place the fish on a hard board, with a sharp pointed knife cut across the tail, loosen the dark skin with the right thumb dipped in salt, hold the fish flat with the left hand, and draw the skjn off towards the head. There is no difficulty in this, provided the fish is fresh, the skin moist and the knife kept very sharp and wet. The dark skin of a sole is removed by the fish- monger, but not that of either lemon sole or plaice, making all the difference in their flavour and delicacy. To fillet a flat fish. After removing the dark skin, cut down the backbone, slip the knife under 49 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY the flesh, keeping close to the bone, till the fins are reached. Cut a fillet off each side, turn the fish over, and cut off two more fillets, making four to each fish. If these are too large they can be divided. To fillet other fish. Whiting is especially good when filleted. Whiting, herring, mackerel, had- dock, etc. : Cut down the back with a sharp knife, lift the flesh carefully off the bone, making two fillets to each fish. These can be divided if pre- ferred. Time for cooking fish. It is impossible to give accurate times, which must depend on the thick- ness and character of the fish. An average time is ten minutes to each lb. and ten minutes over. A 2 lb. flat fish is much thinner than 2 lbs. centre cut of cod, and will therefore cook more quickly. The flesh of salmon is firm and substantial, and requires longer cooking than equal weight of any other fish. Fish must always be well done. To test take a sharp pointed knife and make a small cut in the thickest part, close to the bone. If the fish is ready the flesh will come away easily, and there will be no sign of blood. In frying fish, a thin fish or fillet is ready when a golden brown; a thick slice must take a darker colour. To boil fish. This is a method which loses much of the goodness and flavour of the fish, and is not to be recommended. If fish must be boiled, put salt and a little vinegar in the water before putting in the fish, and never let it do more than simmer. If a fish kettle is used, the strainer can be raised on short legs, and the handles shortened. The fish 50 FISH will then cook in steam without touching the water (as below). To steam fish. Rub the fish over with a piece of lemon. Fold it in well buttered, strong, grease- proof paper. Place it in a steamer (or on a raised strainer, as above) over slowly boiling water. This is a conservative mode of cooking, and nothing is lost. The liquor in the paper is used in the sauce. To cook fish in the oven. This is an easy and conservative mode of cooking, the fish loses none of its flavour or goodness. Use a fireproof or earthen- ware dish, just large enough to take the fish (or a tin). Melt a good piece of butter in it, lay in the fish, season with salt, pepper, and a good squeeze of lemon. If a thick piece of fish, put small dabs of butter on the top. Cover with a strong greased paper, large enough to tuck in, and cook in a warm oven till the flesh comes away from the bone easily. The heat should not be great enough to burn the paper or colour the fish. It can be served in the dish in which it is cooked, a teaspoon of anchovj*-, shrimps, or chopped capers added to the liquor (which consists of essence of fish, butter, and lemon juice). Or dish the fish, and serve with a white sauce to which the fish liquor has been added. Fish done in this way is often called 'boiled,' as though cooked in the oven it is not allowed to colour. To fry fish. The following are suitable mediums for frying fish : — Rendered fat, lard, oil, Hugon Suet (in blocks), Palmine, and other vegetable fats. About 2 lbs. are required, there must be enough to cover the fish. The fat should be added to occa- ^1 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY sionally, and care taken that it does not burn, and it will last a considerable time. Fat must always be strained before putting away, letting it first cool a little. An unlined steel stewpan which will take the frying basket is the best in which to cook small fish and fillets. Or a deep oval fry pan, with a wire slice for lifting and draining. The fat is ready for use when quite still and smoking freely, it has then reached a temperature of about 350 degrees. To egg and breadcrumb fish. Dry the fish, and rub in seasoned flour (a tablespoon flour, a teaspoon salt, J^ teaspoon pepper). Make crumbs by rub- bing stale bread through a sieve on to a paper. Beat an egg on a plate; use a brush and cover the fish with tggy lay it in the crumbs, covering well, and batting them on with the hand. Put the fish carefully in the smoking fat, using the frying basket if convenient, avoid splashing. When the fish is a golden brown (a thick slice must take a darker colour) lift it out with a basket or wire spoon, holding a minute over the pan to let the fat run off. Place the fish on soft crumpled paper to drain. Fish fried in deep fat does not get dry, so does not require a sauce. Dish on a paper, garnish with raw or fried parsley, and quarters of lemon. Fried fish should be served as soon as ready, and must not be covered, or the crispness will be lost. Fish may also be dipped in milk and well flourei or crumbed, or covered with a batter for frying. GARNISH FOR FISH White fish requires careful garnishing. 52 FISH Parsley, raw or fried (see Fried Parsley). Cucumber, the rind cut in strips, or slices cut with the rind left. Lemon, slices or quarters (no pips), or the rind grated. Tomato, in quarters or slices (squeeze out the seeds). Capers, Gherkin, or other pickle, cut up. Anchovies, the fillets boned and rolled and pre- served in oil are the best. Olives, preserved in oil and stoned. Lobster Coral. Or Coralline Pepper, which is a bright red, and not so hot as cayenne. FRYING BATTER FOR FISH Flour, 4 oz. Warm Water, a gill Olive Oil, a tablespoon ^gg, i white Sift the flour in a basin, make a well in the centre, and pour in the oil. Add the warm water very slowly, stirring hard from the centre with a wooden spoon, and keeping it very smooth. Let the batter stand an hour if possible. Whisk the white of &gg to a solid froth, fold it carefully to the batter at the last moment. Cut the fish in rather small pieces, dry in seasoned flour, dip into the batter, and cover well. Fry in boiling fat a few pieces at a time, drain on soft paper, serve and garnish. SALMON A tail of small Salmon Butter Lemon Seasoning 53 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Melt a good piece of butter in a fireproof or earthenware dish, or baking tin. Lay in the fish, squeeze over lemon juice (no pips), pepper and salt, and put some small pieces of butter on the top. Cover with strong buttered paper, tucked well in, and cook in a moderate oven for thirty or forty minutes, according to the thickness of the fish. Serve in the same dish, adding a little Anchovy to the liquor. Or lift carefully to another dish, and serve with a Maitre d* Hotel, Tar tare, or Piquante Sauce. The following may be cooked in the same way : — Cod, small tail, or slice Serve Oyster Sauce Fresh Haddock Serve Egg Sauce Halibut Serve Shrimp Sauce Hake Serve Anchovy Sauce Turbot Serve Lobster Sauce vSole Serve Maitre d 'Hotel Sauce FILLETS OF SOLE (STUFFED) A Lemon Sole Potted Fish, or Shrimps Lemon, Seasoning or a Forcemeat or Butter Lobster Sauce Take o£E the dark skin, and fillet a Lemon or Scotch sole. Lay the fillets on a board, the skin side uppermost. Place in the centre of each a small quantity of potted fish, shrimps or other stuffing. Fold in three, taking care that the pieces look of an equal size. Melt butter in a fireproof dish, lay in the fillets, the folded side underneath, season, squeeze over a little lemon juice, cover with buttered 54 FISH paper, and cook in a moderate oven for about lo minutes. ^Garnish and serve as they are, or move to another dish, and cover with a good Dutch Sauce, which may be yellow (yolk of Qgg), salmon colour (yolk of egg and Anchovy), or green (a few drops of green colouring). Shake a little Coralline Pepper on each fillet, and garnish with small sprigs of parsley. FRIED SOLES 2 Slip Soles Egg Seasoned Flour White Breadcrumbs Trim and skin the fish, rub in seasoned flour; eggy breadcrumb, and fry in boiling fat (see To fry fish). Garnish parsley and quarters of lemon. FRIED FILLETS Take the dark skin off a Lemon or Scotch sole, or plaice, and fillet the fish. The seasoned flour may have added chopped parsley, a grating of lemon rind, or cayenne. Or spread on the fillets a little Anchovy Paste or Essence before putting on the Fillets of whiting are fried in the same way. PLAICE IN BATTER Remove the dark skin, fillet the plaice, and cut in ibng pieces. Spread on each some Anchovy paste. Make a frying batter (see Frying Batter for Fish), dip in each piece, covering it well, and fry in smok- ing fat. (See Fried Soles.) 55 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY WHITEBAIT Whitebait, ^ pint Seasoned Flouj- Whitebait is not an expensive fish. The cooking of it offers no difficulties if the rules of frying are observed. (See Fish to Fry.) The fish must be washed, the seaweed, etc., carefully picked out, and the fish well dried in a cloth. Heat deep fat in a stewpan with the frying basket in it, till smoking freely . Make seasoned flour, put a small handful of the dried fish in it, separating and covering each fish, lay on a wire sieve and shake lightly to remove the superfluous flour. Lift the basket from the hot fat, put in the fish, lower gently, and cook till crisp, a few minutes only. Hold the basket over the pan, to drain off the fat, turn the fish on crushed soft paper on a tin and keep very hot. See that the fat smokes again before putting in the next fish, and continue till all are cooked. Dish on a paper, sprinkle with salt and pepper, garnish with quar- ters of lemon, and serve at once. The table must wait for whitebait. Hand brown bread and butter. It is important that the fish is not floured till it is going to be cooked, and that only a small quantity should be fried at a time. DEVILLED W^HITEBAIT Highly season the Whitebait, with cayenne and black pepper, and serve very hot. Fish left over can be devilled the next day. SCOTCH HERRINGS Herrings should be absolutely fresh, the small 56 FISH ones are the best. Flour lightly to dry, brush over with egg or milk, cover with oatmeal, and fry a deep colour in smoking fat, in a fry pan. Or herrings may be filleted. SPRATS Dry the fish and rub in seasoned flour. Take small skewers of equal sizes, run each one through the heads of about half a dozen fish. Fry crisp in smoking fat in a fry pan. LOBSTER CUTLETS A Lobster, or small tin Egg and Crumbs Panada Anchovy Make a Panada (see Sauces). Flavour with Anchovy, Coralline Pepper, a pinch of salt. Take the lobster out of the shell, flake with two forks, stir it into the sauce, and put on a plate to get cold. Divide the mixture into quarters, and again into as many cutlets as are required. Shape on a floured board, flour lightly, egg and breadcrumb, fry in deep fat, using the basket (see To Fry Fish) . Drain, dish on a paper, garnish with parsley. LOBSTER AU GRATIN A Lobster White Sauce Breadcrumbs Butter Take all the meat out of the shell, cut it up with a silver knife, keeping aside the red claw pieces. Make a small quantity of good White Sauce, using half milk and half fish stock (if available). Add Anchovy Essence, season well, stir in the fish, and 57 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY warm it over the fire. Take the two halves of the head and tail of the lobster shell, making four pieces, trim them neatly. Put some of the mix- ture in each, cover with brown breadcrumbs, and small pieces of butter, and brown under the grill. vSprinkle with Coralline Pepper. SOIvE AU GRATIN A Sole Butter 2 or 3 Mushrooms Brown Crumbs Small piece of Onion or Glaze Shalot Seasoning Lemon Juice or Sherry- Melt a piece of butter in a fireproof dish. Chop finely the mushrooms, the onion and parsley, and sprinkle half in the dish. Skin and trim the sole, and score it lightly with a sharp knife. Tay it in the dish, season, pour over a little sherry. Sprinkle over the rest of the mushrooms, &c., the brown crumbs, and lay small pieces of butter on the top. Bake in a moderate oven for 15 minutes or more, according to the size of the fish. Melt a half tea- spoon of glaze in a tablespoon of hot water, and pour round the fish. It should be served in the dish in which it is cooked. SOUSED MACKEREL 2 small Mackerel Peppercorns Yi Pint Vinegar and Bay Leaf, Parsley Water Trim the fish, cutting off the heads and tails, and put in a deep pie or fireproof dish, with the .S8 FISH vinegar and water, the peppercorns, 2 cloves, a sprig of parsley, and a Bay leaf. Cover closely and cook in a slow oven for an hour. Serve cold. If the fish is filleted it is quicker cooked. Herrings may be soused in the same way. SCALLOPS The small Scallops are the best. Wash very carefully to remove all sand. Put in a saucepan with enough hot water to cover and simmer gently for three quarters of an hour, or an hour, according to size. Make a white sauce, using half milk and half fish stock, stir in the fish. Place on a greased fireproof dish, sprinkle with brown bread crumbs, put small pieces of butter on the top, and brown under the gas grill, or in front of the fire. Or dish in small Scallop shells, and brown in the same way. Scallops are nutritious, and easily digested, when sufficiently cooked and tender. The remaining stock make.'j an excellent soup. • TO GRILL FLSH Make up a hot clear fire, or make the gas grill red hot. Rub over the bars of the grid- iron with fat, to prevent sticking. If the fish is thick, score it, making cuts across with a sharp knife. Or split it open. Brush it over with oil, or melted butter, and put the fish on the grid. Cook sharply, turning the fish when one side is done. Fish is very quickly cooked this way. It should be served at once with small pieces of plain 59 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY or Maitre d' Hotel butter placed on it. The follow- ing fish can be grilled : — Slice of Salmon, Slice or Tail of small Cod (split open), Sole, Mackerel (split), Herrings, &c., Dried Haddock, Kippers, and Bloaters may be grilled in the same way. SMOKED FIIXETS OF FISH Put in a basin, pour boiling water over, cover closely, and leave for 5 or 10 minutes. Dry the fish, brush over with oil or butter, and grill. Place butter on the top when dishing. A large dried had- dock may be treated in the same way. Smoked Fillets may be boiled gently, drained, and served with egg sauce. Lobsters, Crabs, Prawns, Shrimps, are sold ready cooked and are generally eaten cold. They may be warmed (as recipes) but should never be recooked, or the flesh becomes tough and indi- gestible. 60 MEAT THE highest priced pieces of meat are the most economical to buy. For small house- holds, meat should be cut off small beasts. In cold weather, or when out of cold storage, meat should be kept in the kitchen to thaw slowly for some time before cooking. In hot weather meat may require the outside trimmed off, and washing with vinegar and water. It should never be cooked if tainted after this trimming and washing. Meat should be carefully looked over before cook- ing. All impurities, blood vessels, dried skin, visible muscles and sinews removed. The meat should be wiped over with wet tissue paper if necessary. All excess of fat should be cut off, in mutton especially (this will be rendered for frying). A butcher usually chops bones, but it is well to see that this has been properly done. Joints should be shaped with a view to easy carving. Wood skewers taken out, and replaced by steel, which are readily removed with a fork. To bone is to cut the bones out of the flesh in the neatest manner possible. A sharp pointed knife, and a firm board being necessary. Printed directions are difficult to follow, but in practice the art is quite an easy one. When meat is to be boned 6i THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY it must not be previously chopped. Many small joints, such as loins, best end of neck of mutton or veal, a small shoulder of lamb, or half shoulder of mutton are specially good and economical when boned and stuffed. The following jointi» are suitable for a small household : — BEEF To Roast. Fillet of Beef, 2 lbs. (cut without the flap). To Boil. 2 or 3 lbs. of Salt Brisket (not too fat). To Bra:.5e. 3 lbs. Fillet of Beef. To Grill. R".mp Steak, or Slices of Fillet, any weight. To Stew. Rump or Buttock Steak. Ox Tail. For Pies or Puddings, Rump or Buttock Steak, Ox Kidney. MUTTON AND LAMB To Roast. 2 or 3 lbs. Loin, or best end of neck" (chined). A small shoulder of Lamb (which may be boned and stuffed). The Blade half of a Shoulder of Mutton. To Boil. 2 lbs. Best End of Neck (chined). The knuckle half of a leg or shoulder. Sheeps head (boiled, the meat taken off the bones, a brain and parsley sauce). Sweetbreads. To Stew. About 2 lbs. Best End of Neck (chined) for a Brown Stew or Haricot. About 2 or 3 lbs. Scrag End of the Neck for a White or Irish Stew, Kidneys. 62 MEAT To Broil or Fry. Cutlets, Mutton or Lamb, are cut from the Best End of the Neck (chined). It is well to ask for as many bones as cutlets required. Kidneys, Sweetbreads. To Grill. Mutton Chops, Lamb Chops. To Braise. A small Shoulder of Lamb, boned and stuffed. A Breast of Lamb or Mutton, not too fat. Sweetbreads. Welsh or Mountain Mutton, when in season, is very small and sweet. Canterbury Lamb is small, and not too fat. VEAL Small Veal is far more delicate and tender than large, and easily digested. To Roast. The Blade half of a Shoulder or Oyster. A piece of Fillet (the bone taken out, the hole filled with Forcemeat or a piece of fat Bacon), a small Loin boned and stuffed. To Boil. A Knuckle (from the shoulder) with sufficient meat on it. The bones should be broken in two places, but the flesh not cut. Weight, about 3 or 4 lbs., it is mainly bone. The liquor makes good broth. Half a Calf's Head (small). Calves Feet. Sweetbreads. To Braise. The Best End of the Neck, boned, stuffed and rolled. Breast. Sweetbreads. To Fry. Veal Cutlet. Liver. Sweetbreads. PORK Pork should be very small and dairy fed. It is then delicate in flavour, tender and easily digested. 63 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Pork is best bought from a dairy. The skin is always scored for roasting. To Roast. 2 or 3 lbs. of I^oin. A small leg. To Boil. Half a Hand (Shoulder) or small Hand, salted. A piece of Flank. The Cheek or Chap is generally sold ready boiled, and is eaten cold, being very fat. A whole Ham is too large for a small household. A corner can be bought weighing 33^ to 4 lbs., and is excellent eating hot and cold. To Fry. Chops may be fried or grilled. Break- fast Bacon is generally Back or Streaky. If only a lb. or so is bought it is a good plan to have it cut in Rashers, thick or thin, as it is not easy to cut well with a small piece. Saus- ages are best bought from a dairy, and must be good and fresh. They should be fried till a dark brown in fat deep enough to cover them. ROAST BEEF Take 2 lbs. Fillet of Beef, which will take about three-quarters of an hour to roast. Trim, and make into good shape for carving, a Fillet is carved down, not across. Put dripping in an earthenware baking dish, place the meat in on a stand, and more dripping on the beef. The oven must be very hot for the first ten minutes, the heat then reduced. Baste constantly. When the meat is sufficiently brown, remove the iron sheet from above it. When the beef is ready, place it on a hot dish, pour gravy round, and garnish with watercress, or baked 64 MEAT Tomatoes. For the gravy; if good stock is avail- able, warm it up, season and brown. Or, after dishing the beef, pour off the fat, put a little water in the baking dish, add some salt. Boil it up on the top of the stove, smoothing out with a knife any brown pieces sticking to the dish. Add a little Extract of Meat and pour the gravy through a fine strainer round the meat. Small joints do not make sufl&cient good gravy, it always requires adding to and improving. The Fillet may be served in the baking dish in which it has cooked. Lift the meat, pour av/ay the I fat, replace the meat, and pour hot gravy round. Small potatoes, which should be kept whole, may be cooked in with the meat. Or they may be par- boiled and fi.nished in the dripping. Meat cooked , in an earthenware dish is particularly good. ROAST MUTTON Mutton requires rather more cooking than Beef, and must always be well done and brown. Serve with Onion Sauce or Red Currant or Blackberry Jelly. In winter Dried Haricot Beans as a vege- table. ROAST LAMB Should be very well cooked and brown. It is generally served with Mint Sauce. ROAST VEAL Must be thoroughly cooked right through, and c 65 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY having little fat requires constant basting. It is served with rolls of Bacon (unless stuffed). Garnish with quarters of Lemon. Spinach or Tomatoes for vegetable or Sea-kale. ROAST PORK To be digestible, Pork must be well cooked right through. It requires a very hot oven (or the crackling will not crisp) and the heat must be kept up. Serve with Apple Sauce. Baked or boiled Onions, or Greens. BOILED MUTTON OR LAMB Take about 2 lbs. of the Best End of Neck of Mutton (previously chined, and the rib bones chopped short). It will take about an hour to boil. Remove the backbone, the sinew which lies along at the top of the meat, and a muscle which is easily found. Cut out the short bones, folding the flap underneath to make the joint a good shape. Cut or tear off all superfluous fat (to be rendered). Very little boiled mutton fat can be eaten. Put the bones in a Casserole with cold water. When it comes up to the boil add salt, skim well, and put in ■ the meat. The water should touch but not cover ' the meat. Add Spanish Onions (as many as are ; required for Sauce) stuck with two or three Cloves, t Carrots, Turnips, and half a dozen Peppercorns. Boil fast for ten minutes, and take off all scum. < ' . . . / Reduce the heat, and simmer till the meat is done. '^ Serve on a hot dish, pour over a good Onion Sauce * (using the onions cooked with the meat) or Parsley 66 ^? MEAT Sauce, or Caper Sauce. Garnish with Carrot and Parsley. If the vegetables are small and young put them in later to avoid overcooking. The liquor makes good broth. A small shoulder of lamb will boil as above. BOILED VEAL A knuckle, weighing 3 or 4 lbs. (mainly bone) has Oyster or Parsley Sauce poured over and served in a Sauce Boat. Small rolls of Bacon may be served with it. Garnish with Carrots and Parsley. Time to boil, about i^ hours. The liquor makes good Broth. BOILED BEEF Take 2 or 3 lbs. of Salt Brisket, which will require about an hour and a half to boil. Wash the meat, to remove the salt on the outside. Put it in an earthenware saucepan with warm water to cover and simmer slowly. Take off the scum as long as any rises. Put in Onions (stick with Cloves), whole Carrots and Turnips, being careful they are not overcooked. The meat being salted and hard requires very slow cooking in order to make it tender. Dish with the vegetables round, and serve with steamed floury Potatoes or Potato Snow. If the meat is to be eaten cold, cooking should con- tinue till the bones slip out easily. It is then pressed between two boards, with weights on the top, and left till next day, when it is trimmed and glazed. Some of the liquor if not too salt may be used in the making of Pea Soup. 67 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY BOILED BACON Take a Corner, weighing 3^ to 4 IHs. which will require 2 hours to simmer, and about half an hour or more to rise to that point. This meat is cured and smoked, and dried, so will require some hours soaking according to dryness. Put the Bacon in a stewpan, cover with cold water, bring it very slowly to boiling point, skim thoroughly, and do not let the water again rise above simmering. An Onion, Carrot, and Turnip, and Peppercorns put in the second hour, improve the flavour. When the Corner is cooked take off the skin, cover thickly with Brown Crumbs. Garnish with Carrot and Parsley. Serve some of the liquor as gravy, improved with a small quantity of Meat Extract and Sherry. Serve broad Beans when in season. Butter Beans or Haricot Beans in the winter. Serve hot the first day. The lean and fat should be cut together to avoid waste. vSTEWED OX TAIL An Ox Tail Carrots, Onions, Turnips Dripping Seasoned Flour An Ox Tail requires about 4 hours stewing to make it tender. This is a brown stew. Cut the tail in neat pieces, and rub in seasoned Flour. Melt a little dripping in a fry pan, when smoking put in the meat, and brown on both sides. Have a Casserole part full of warm water, put the meat in as it is ready fried. Fry the onions in the fat | (adding a little more if necessary), tut in thick | rings if large, keep whole if small. Add these to 6S MEAT the stew pan when brown. For the thickening, fry what is left of the seasoned Flour (or make more), in a little fat, smoothing it with a knife. When it is brown, pour in a teaspoon each of Worcester, Ketchup, Tomato and Anchovy Sauces, and add a little water from the stewpan. Stir this well, let it boil up, and add to the stewpan. Add Carrots and Turnips cut in slices, in the last hour. Remove all fat and scum as it rises. Simmer the Oxtail till the flesh will come off the bones easily. Serve in a deep dish and use soup plates. If a small quantity only is left over it may be thinned down next day and will make soup. STEWED STEAK Rump Steak, i lb. Onions, Carrots, Turnips The Steak may be cut in pieces, or left whole. Rub it in seasoned Flour, heat a little dripping in a casserole, put in the Steak, and fry brown on both sides. Lift it out, and keep warm on a plate. Fry a sliced Spanish Onion; when this is brown, stir in what seasoned Flour remains, and fry, smooth- ing it with a knife. Add a teaspoon each of Worcester, Ketchup, Tomato, Anchovy Sauces, as much water as is required, and boil for a few minutes. Put the Steak back in the pan, and simmer very gently for about two hours. When the stew is half done put in Carrots and Turnips cut in thick slices. Take off all scum as it rises. For lunch serve in a casserole, using small soup plates. Maccaroni and Tomatoes may be substi- tuted for Carrots and Turnips. 6q THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY STEWED MUTTON Take the Best End of the Neck (chined), divide into cutlets, and cook as Stewed Steak. STEWED VEAL Veal cutlet in one or more pieces. Cook as Stewed Steak. Celery, Sausage, or Forcemeat Balls may take the place of the other vegetables if preferred. STEWED KIDNEYS Sheeps Kidneys, 6 Seasoned Flour Onion Sauces Scald and skin the Kidneys, cut them in halves, take out the small hard piece, and rub in seasoned flour. Heat a little dripping in a small casserole, put in the Kidneys, and fry them brown. Take them out without pricking, put on a plate and keep warm. Chop a small Onion, put it in the casseiole, and fry till brown; add the rest of the seasoned flour, and brown. Add a teaspoon each of Wor- cester, Ketchup, Tomato and Anchovy Sauces. Add gradually as much water as is required, stir- ring well to keep smooth. Return the Kidneys to the pan, and simmer for about an hour. Take off any scum. A little Sherry can be added if liked. STEWED LIVER Calves Liver is scalded, cut in slices, all the blood vessels removed, and cooked as Stewed Kid- neys. Serve wdth Bacon. Arrange the slices 70 MEAT neatly on a dish, pouring the gravy round, or serve in the casserole. IRIwSH STEW Scrag End Neck of Onions, Potatoes Mutton, 2 lbs. This is a white Stew. To be really good requires two or three hours simmering. The scrag requires very careful cleansing, all dried pieces cut off, and blood removed. Cut the meat into neat pieces, put in a casserole half full of cold water, and bring it slowly to the boil. Take off the scum. Add Potatoes and Onions, skinned and cut in thick slices. Salt and Peppercorns, and simmer gently. As the slices of Potatoes go to pieces it is a good plan to put in some small Potatoes the second hour to keep whole. Serve the Stew in the casserole and use soup plates. BRAISED VEAL (BONED) Neck of Veal Vegetables Sausages, 5^ lb. Glaze Buy the best end of the Neck of Veal, which has a skin on. It must not be chopped or chined. With a sharp knife start at the backbone and cut the meat off the bones. Remove all sinews, &c. Lay the meat flat on a board, with the skin under- neath. Place in the centre the Sausages (skinned). Roll up the meat, sew the edges together with a strong thread, leaving a long end of thread. Line a casserole just large enough to take the meat with slices of fat Bacon, lay in the meat, and add thick 71 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY slices of Onion and Carrot. Cover the pan, and let this cook for about 20 minutes. Add water, or Stock (not too much, when ready, there should only be enough for a good supply of rich gravy). Sim- mer gently on the top of the stove for about 2 hours. Or put the casserole in the oven. Dish the meat, hold a fork close to it and pull away the thread carefully. Brush over with glaze, rinse the brush in the grav}^, and pour round. Garnish with the braised vegetables, some Green Peas, new Carrots or Cooked Tomatoes. The Veal may be pressed between two boards till cold, and glazed next day. The bones make excellent stock. BRAIvSED LAMB Bone a small shoulder, or take out the blade bone only. Stuff with a Forcemeat, sew it up and bind with tape a good shape. Braise for two hours or more, according to size, as Braised Veal. The gravy may be made sharp with Capers or Chopped Gherkin. FILLETS AND TOMATOES Fillet of Beet Tomatoes Butter Glaze Take slices of Fillet, as many as required, about three quarters of an inch thick. Cut the meat as nearly as possible into rounds, using tiny wood skewers, or sharpened matches to keep a good shape if necessary (these to be removed when dish- ing). Put a small quantity of Butter or dripping in a fry pan, when it smokes fry the Fillets 72 MEAT sharply, turning them without pricking when brown on one side. Fry also a small slice of fat for each Fillet. Arrange the Fillets down the centre of a narrow dish, put on each a piece of fat and brush over with glaze. Cook some very small Tomatoes in the oven, put one on each Fillet. Pour round the dish a little good gravy with glaze in it. At the moment of serving place on each Fillet a pat of Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Mushrooms or Spinach may take the place of Tomatoes. It is not possible to give a time for the cooking of Fillets, this depends on their thickness. Press the centre of the meat with the blade of a knife, it will feel fairly firm when sufficiently cooked. The Fillets should be juicy. LIVER AND BACON (Fried) Calves Liver, i lb. Seasoned Flour Bacon Fry as many rashers of Bacon as are required, take them out and keep hot. Scald the liver, cut in slices about half an inch thick, rub in seasoned flour and fry for about lo minutes, turning over with a knife. Arrange the slices neatly on a dish, pour off the fat, make a small quantity of gravy in the fry pan and pour round the meat. Add the fried Bacon. Liver must be well cooked, but not allowed to harden. It may also be stewed. FRIED CUTLETS Best End of Neck of Frying Fat Lamb, or Mutton Egg Seasoned Flour Breadcrumbs 73 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Choose small meat, as many bones as Cutlets required. Have it chined and the rib bones chopped short. Divide the Cutlets with a sharp knife, trim well, leaving little fat, and scraping bare an inch of the end of the bone. Rub lightly in seasoned flour, brush over with egg, and cover with white breadcrumbs when ready to fry. Heat deep frying fat in an iron stewpan, when it smokes put in the Cutlets, two or three at a time. If not very thick they are ready when a golden brown. Drain on soft paper, keeping very hot. Arrange the Cut- lets down the centre of the dish, leaning on each other. Twist silver paper round the end of the bones. Serve with Green Peas, Spinach, Tomatoes, Mashed Potato, &c., on each side. Gravy or Tomato Sauce can be served, but are not necessary. Cutlets fried in deep fat do not become dry. VBAL CUTLETS Buy a pound or more of Veal Cutlet, which has little bone. Cut into rounds about half an inch thick. If the piece is thicker, cut it through, or bat it thin with the blade of a knife. Rub the rounds in seasoned flour, to which has been added a little grated Lemon Rind, Chopped Parsley and a pinch of Coralline Pepper. Cook as Mutton Cut- lets, but the colour must be a richer brown, as Veal requires to be well done. Serve with Spinach, Peas, or Mushrooriis, and Oyster Sauce. LAMBS' SWEETBREADS ov 74 Pour boiling water over the sweetbreads to MEAT blanch them. Simmer them gently in boiling water, or stock for 30 or 40 minutes. Take them out, and let them get quite cold. Now rub the sweetbreads in seasoned flour, &gg, breadcrumb and fry as Cutlets. Dish with Green Peas, and a little good gravy, half glaze. Or the sweetbreads may be boiled, and served with White Sauce poured over, or braised with vegetables. CALVES' SWEETBREADS These may be boiled in the same way, giving a longer time for simmering, according to size. After boiling, press the Sweetbread till cold; cut into neat pieces, flour, oiggy breadcrumb, and fry. GRITXED STEAK Rump Steak, i lb. Maitre d'Hotel Butter Salad Oil Seasoning The Steak should be about three quarters of an inch thick. The fire must be red and clear, or the gas grill must be red hot. Rub the bars of the grid with a piece of fat. Plump the Steak, and brush over with oil on both sides. The meat should scorch at once; turn with a knife when brown on one side. The Steak will take 12 minutes, more or less, to grill, according to thick- ness. It should be very juicy when cut. Serve at once. The table must wait for a grill. Put small pats of Maitre d' Hotel or Anchovy Butter on the meat. Serve with Fried Potatoes and Baked 75 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Tomatoes, or with Spanish Onions, cut in rings and fried. GRILLED CHOPS Chops are cut from Loin of Mutton, Lamb or Pork, and are grilled in the same way as Steak. A Pork Chop should be well cooked throughout. Mutton and Lamb Chops may be juicy according to taste. Serve with very hot plates. GRILLED KIDNEYS Scald and skin and split the Kidneys, brush over with oil. Grill with a piece of toast underneath to catch the gravy. Serve on the squares of toast and season well. Or with a Devil Sauce. Or buy the Kidneys in their own fat, and grill as they are, serving each one on a piece of toast. Time, about 15 minutes. A dish for lunch. Or Kidneys may be stewed. BRAISED CUTLETS Cut and trim the Cutlets, put in a baking dish or tin with the fat and trimmings, and a small piece of onion and carrot. Cover with a tin and braise gently in the oven, or on top of a stove for about half an hour. Press the Cutlets till cold between two plates. Brush over with glaze, cover the end of the bones with silver paper. Arrange the Cutlets down the centre of the dish, and put a Russian Salad round. Or Braised Cut- lets may be served hot. Brush over with glaze (without pressing) dish with hot peas, or new carrots. 76 POULTRY AND GAME IN towns Poultry and Game are sold prepared, ready for cooking, and when service and space are limited it is always advisable to send birds to a poulterer to be dressed, when possible. If this has to be done at home, a lesson should be taken in plucking, cleaning, and truss- ing. These processes require to be seen. The art of Boning birds is easily learnt by demonstration followed by practice, but it is not easy to make printed directions clear. To Choose a Fowl. When a fowl is young the end of the breast bone is gristle and bends easily, the legs are smooth and the claws break readily if turned back. For roasting, a bird must be young. An old bird will eat well if boiled, or braised very slowly for two or three hours, till tender, and flavoured with vegetables. Or it can be boned, stuffed and braised till tender, pressed between boards till cold, making a galantine. An old bird makes excellent soup. All poultry must be thor- oughly cooked, the time required must vary accord- ing to the size and age of a bird. Game is hung in order to make it more tender. The length of time depending on the situation of the larder, and on the temperature. If the weather is hot or damp, the birds are soon high. No game 77 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY is fit for food that is tainted. Wild birds have as a rule no fat, therefore require to be well basted. Small birds are served on toast, and are often cooked on it. Potatoes served with game are always fried. ROAST CHICKEN Truss the fowl with steel skewers, these are easily removed. Place it on a stand in an earthen- ware dish, or baking tin. Cover with dripping, and put a piece inside the bird. The oven should be very hot for ten minutes, the heat may then be reduced. Baste constantly; if this is not possible, cover the breast of the bird as soon as it is brown, with a strong greased paper. Allow three quarters of an hour, an hour or more, for cooking, according to the size of the bird. Rolls of bacon, sausages (cooked with the bird), brown gravy, or bread sauce, may be served. But if the bird is fat and well roasted it is excellent served with a salad only, or garnished with watercress. BRAISED FOWL Take a casserole just large enough to hold the bird. Cover the bottom with slices of fat bacon, add thick slices of onion, carrot and turnip, and put in the fowl. Cover the pan and let it cook on the top of the stove for 15 minutes. Now add a pint (more or less) of hot water. Cover the breast of the bird with greased paper (to avoid drops from the lid) and simmer an hour or more according to the size and age of the fowl. Dish the bird^ wipe 78 POULTRY AND GAME the breast with soft paper and brush over with glaze. Put the vegetables round the dish ; take some of the stock for gravy, stirring it with the glaze brush. Serve with green peas. Sausages or bacon if wished. An old bird will require at least two hours braising. BOILED FOWL Put the neck, scalded feet, gizzard, &c., of the Fowl, in a casserole, and cover with cold water. Bring it slowly to the boil, take off the scum, and put in the Fowl, standing it on the bones. Rub the breast over with half a Lemon, and cover with greased paper. Put in Carrots, whole, or cut in thick slices, Turnips, an Onion or more, stuck with Cloves, Salt and Peppercorns, and simmer gently for an hour if the bird is young. Or two hours or more if an old bird. Dish the Fowl, pour over it a good White Sauce, decorate quickly with a hard boiled yolk of egg rubbed through a wire strainer, or with Chopped Parsley, or with small pieces of lean Ham or Tongue. Or the Chicken may be brushed over with glaze and served with a brown gravy. It will be noticed that the bird is steamed, and not boiled. The water touches, but does not cover it. Pickled Pork, Bacon, or a Bath Chap, may be served with a boiled fowl. Hot Beetroot, Peas, French Beans, or Carrots, as vegetable. ROAST TURKEY A Turkey for Roasting must be young (see 79 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Roast Fowl). As soon as it is brown the breast should be covered with a greased paper. A Turkey requires carefully basting. It may be stuffed with Sausage Meat, a Forcemeat, or with Chestnuts. Bread Sauce or Cranberry Sauce may be served with it. BOILED TURKEY A Boiled Turkey (see Boiled Fowl) is covered with a good White, Celery, or Oyster Sauce, and is served with fried Sausages. The time required for cooking depends on the age and size of the bird. GUINEA FOWL A Guinea Fowl has little fat, therefore the breast is either larded or covered with slices of fat Bacon before roasting (see Roast Chicken). This bird requires careful basting ; a piece of dripping should be put inside. Bread Sauce and Fried Crumbs may be served with it. Mushrooms and Fried Potatoes. A Guinea Fowl can also be braised and glazed. ROAST DUCK A Duck is served with Brown Gravy, Apple Sauce, Green Peas or small new Turnips. Time for roasting from three quarters hour to one and a half hour, according to size and age. (See Roast Chicken.) A duck must be very well cooked. ROAST PIGEON (See Roast Chicken.) A Pigeon is roasted on a 80 POULTRY AND GAME piece of toast, served with rolls of Bacon, and with watercress round the dish. Mushrooms or Peas, and Potato Chips for vegetables. Time, about 20 minutes to roast. BOILED RABBIT AND PORK A Tame Rabbit Onion Sauce Pickled Pork, i lb. Peppercorns Wash the Pork to remove the salt, put it in a saucepan, cover with water, and let it simmer for half an hour. Take off the scum. Cut off the head of the rabbit (it should not be sent to table). Truss it as near the shape of a chicken as possible. When the water in the pan boils put in the Rabbit with the Pork, add Onions (as many as are wanted for sauce), a Carrot, and Peppercorns, and simmer for an hour or more according to age. Take out the onions as soon as they are tender. Make Onion Sauce, and pour over the rabbit when dished. Garnish with Carrots and Parsley. Serve the Pork on a separate dish. A tame Rabbit has a better flavour and colour than a wild one; it is more tender, and therefore cooked more quickly. RAGOUT OF RABBIT A Rabbit, wild or tame Onions Seasoned Flour Sausage or Forcemeat Cleanse the Rabbit carefully, and cut off the head. Cut off the forelegs, the back legs (which are cut in halves). Cut through the flesh, and divide the backbone into four or five pieces. Rub' the pieces of Rabbit in seasoned Flour, and fry in a 81 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY small quantity of hot fat in a fry pan till brown on both sides. Put the pieces of rabbit, as they brown, in a casserole with hot water to cover, and simmer gently for about two hours. Fry Button Onions, Forcemeat or Sausage Balls in the frypan, and add to the stew the second hour. Make thickening by frying seasoned Flour in the fry pan, with a very little fat. Smooth with a knife and let it brown (making a brown roux), add a teaspoon each of Worcester, Ketchup, Tomato and Anchovy Sauces, add a little stock from the stew pan ; bring it up to the boil and pour in with the Rabbit. Small Tomatoes are excellent with this stew, they should be placed on the top of the meat, and allowed time to cook, but not lose their colour, or go to pieces. Serve the Rabbit in the casserole. ROAST HARE A leveret should be chosen. The head must be cut off, the blood should not be used. Cleanse the Hare carefully. Put a pound of sausage meat in the body and sew it up. Truss the Hare as close and plump as possible, and tie on slices of fat Bacon. Place it in an earthenware dish, pour some milk round and place in the oven. Baste constantly. When the milk is exhausted use dripping to baste with. Time to roast, from one to one and a half hours. Make a good gravy, add a little Port Wine. Serve Red Currant or other Jelly with the Hare. Instead of Stuffing, Sausage or Forcemeat Balis may be browned, cooked with the Hare, and dished round it. 82 POULTRY AND GAME STEWED HARE A Hare is cut up in the same manner as a Rabbit, and stewed (as Rabbit Ragout). The casserole is put on the stove, or in the oven. Three or four hours gentle simmering will be required. Sausage or Forcemeat Balls are added the last hour, and Button Onions. The Gravy should be thick and rich. Add a wineglass of Port to it ten minutes before serving. Jugged Hare warms up well; or any left over may be thinned down for soup. The blood of the Hare should not be used. ROAST PHEASANT A Pheasant for roasting must be young. Tie fat Bacon over the breast, removing it later to let the bird brown. Roast quickly for 40 to 60 minutes (see Roast Chicken). Serve with Bread Sauce, garnish with Fried Crumbs and Watercress. An old bird may be braised and glazed (see Braised Chicken). Or boiled and covered with Celery Sauce (see Boiled Chicken). GROUSE A Grouse is roasted on a piece of toast, with a lump of Butter inside, and requires good basting. Time, about 30 minutes sharp roasting (see Roast Chicken). Serve with Fried Crumbs^ Mushrooms, and Fried Potatoes. WOODCOCK AND SNIPE It is customary to cook these birds without 83 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY drawing them, but to be wholesome they should certainly be cleaned as other game. Roast quickly, and serve on Toast. BLACK GAME Blackcock and Greyhen, Ptarmigan, take longer to roast in proportion to their size than other game, and being dry birds require very careful basting. Serve with good gravy, to which a little Port is added. An Orange Salad is excellent with Black Game. WILD DUCK A Wild Duck requires about 20 or 30 minutes* sharp roasting. The gravy should have a little Port in it, and a teaspoon of Red Currant Jelly. Garnish with Watercress. Serve with an Orange Salad. 84 VEGETABLES VEGETABLES are cooked in order to make them digestible and palatable, care being taken to preserve their food value, fla- vour and colour. Root Vegetables, Potatoes, Carrots, Onions, &c., are best when young and freshl}?- dug. When old they may be kept some time in a wire vegetable stand, but are not fit for use once they are soft. Roots re- quire some soaking, and well scrubbing before cooking. They should be boiled whole if pos- sible, choosing all of the same size for a dish. The saucepan should be kept well covered. Potatoes should be cooked in their skins or they lose much of their value. Large Potatoes are kept for baking or roasting, smaller ones, and those that have to be cut and trimmed, are steamed, mashed, fried, &c. Old Potatoes re- quire long cooking to make them floury. No times can be given for the cooking of vegetables. These may be large or small, young or old, quickly or slowly grown, close or open, and require more or less time accordingly. Thc vegetables are cooked when a skewer goes easily through the thickest parts. All root vegetables are improved by the addition of butter, when served. 85 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY BOILED POTATOES (OIvD) Soak the Potatoes, and scrub them clean with a small brush. Put them in a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover; add a teaspoon of salt, cover, and cook quickly, till done. The skin can be removed before serving if liked Steaming is a better and easier process. STEAMED POTATOES Scrub the Potatoes, put them in a steamer over boiling water, cover and cook gently till done. Serve the Potatoes in their jackets for lunch. For dinner, remove the skins carefully, and sprinkle with salt. A steamer is a tin pan with holes in the bottom; it fits over an ordinary saucepan in which water is boiling. POTATO SNOW Take the skin off Steamed Potatoes, press them lightly through a masher into a hot vege- table dish. MASHED POTATOES Steam and snow the Potatoes as above. Add a good piece of butter or dripping, melted. Sea- son with pepper and salt; if liked, add a little cream or milk. Mix all lightlj^ with a fork, and serve very hot. Or the Potatoes may be mashed with a fork in the saucepan, adding the butter and seasoning. S6 VEGETABLES POTATO MOULD Heap up the mixed and seasoned Mashed Potato on a greased fireproof dish. Rough it with a fork, put a little butter on the top, and brown in the oven, or under the grill. Or, put the Mashed Potato in a greased tin, bake in the oven till brown, and turn the mould out carefully. POTATO BALLS Add the yolk of an egg to the Mashed Potato, mix well, and leave it to get cold. Shape the Potaco mixture into balls, flour the outside lightly, brush over with eggy cover with bread crumbs. Fry the balls in deep smoking fat. Garnish with Parsley. POTATOES BAKED Take large Potatoes of an equal size. Scrub and dry them. Bake slowly for an hour or more. If the oven is very hot the skin should be pricked with a fork, or a slit made round the middle of the Potato, or the skin may burst in cooking. These Potatoes should be dry and floury, and are especi- ally good eaten with Cold Meat. Or Potatoes can be baked in a 'Devil.* This is a double pan, top and bottom alike, in unglazed earthenware. It is used on the top of a stove, or on a gas ring. The Potatoes are scrubbed, dried, and put in the Devil. The pan is turned over occasion- ally in order to cook the Potatoes evenly. They should be dry and very floury. No water is put in this pan, and it is never washed. 87 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY NEW POTATOES New Potatoes should be quite small and waxy, Kidneys are the best. Soak in cold water and rub with a coarse cloth. Cook the Potatoes in boiling water, add salt, sometimes a sprig of Mint, and boil till a small skewer will just go through the centre. Drain, and put in a hot dish with a good piece of butter* New Potatoes are spoilt if over- cooked. FRIED POTATOES Old Potatoes are the best for frying. Wash and peel them thinly. Cut into thin slices, or into sticks, making Chips ; or cut thick slices, and each slice round and round, making ribbons; or cut in small quarters. Heat deep frying fat in a stewpan till it smokes. Dry the Potatoes, a few at a time, in a cloth. Put them into the smoking fat, using the frying basket if convenient. Raise the basket a little till all the bubbling is over, and give an occa- sional shake to separate the Chips. When the Potatoes are crisp and ^ golden brown, lift up the basket, holding it over the pan for a minute. Turn the Potatoes on soft paper to drain. The fat must boil up again, and the process repeated till all are cooked, keeping the Fried Potatoes hot on a tin. Serve at once on a dish paper, and sprinkle freely with salt. Fried Potatoes should not be covered. CARROTS (OLD) Scrub the Carrots. The skin is very thin, so they are scraped and not peeled, unless old and 88 VEGETABLES cracked. Cook the Carrots whole in boiling salted water till tender; if large they will take an hour. Drain in a colander. Cut the Carrots in rather thick slices, melt a good piece of butter in the saucepan, put in the Carrots and shake them over the fire for a few minutes, but do not brown. Put the Carrots in a hot dish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, sometimes a little finely chopped Parsley. CARROTS (NEW) Wash and soak the Carrots. Put them in boiling salted water, and cook till tender. Strain, take off the skins. Finish with butter, as with old Carrots. Or, put the Carrots in a hot dish, and the butter and seasoning over them. TURNIPS Turnips, especially if young, have a thick rind. ''hen the top is cut off a line is seen, all rind out- ride this line must be removed or the Turnips are )itter. When Turnips are like a sponge or full of 'strings they are only good for flavouring. Put the Turnips in boiling salted water, and cook gently till tender. Drain and finish with butter. Or, if large, Turnips may be mashed with a good lump of butter and seasoning. ONIONS Spanish Onions of a medium size are the best for boiling. Hold the Onion on a fork to take off the skin. Cook in boiling salted water, simmering gentlv for about an hour, or till tender, test with 89 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY a skewer and do not over-cook. Drain well, and serve in a hot dish, with a good piece of butter. BAKED ONIONS Skin the Onions, put them on a fireproof dish with some dripping or butter. Bake in the oven till tender, basting occasionally with the fat, serve on the same dish. STEWED ONIONS Small or medium Onions can be stewed. Heat a little butter or dripping in a small casserole. Skin the Onions and let them brown over the fire in the fat. Add a small quantity of stock, and simmer till tender. Dish the Onions. Reduce the stock b37 boiling fast without a lid till little remains, stir in half a teaspoon of glaze. Pour this stock over the Onions. BEETROOT Wash carefully without breaking the skin, or the Beet will bleed. Cook gently in boiling salted water till tender. Take off the skin, cut in thick slices, pour melted butter over and serve hot. Small globe Beets are kept whole. Or eat the Beet- root cold with a dressing of vinegar. Beets are generally sold already cooked. PARSNIPS These are scraped or peeled, according to age. Cook in boiling salted water till tender. Serve with a little butter. Or, after boiling, the Parsnips 90 VEGETABLES may be dried, and browned in the oven with a little dripping. Or they may be mashed with butter, and well seasoned. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Scrub and peel. Put a teaspoon of vinegar in the boiling salted water in which the Artichokes are cooked. Serve with melted butter poured over. GREEN VEGETABLES All green stuff should be fresh gathered, and should not be cooked unless it is crisp. To crisp up, cut off the end of the stalk and stand in cold water. To wash, cover with water and put in a spoonful of salt to draw out all insects. Look well over before cooking. Green vegetables are gener- ally over-cooked in this country, the texture, colour, and flavour spoilt. It is not possible to give accur- ate times for the cooking of green vegetables. They may be large or small, old or new, quickly or slowly grown, close or open, and accordingly require more or less time for cooking. Greens should be drained off immediately a skewer will go through the stalk. There should always be enough resistance in a cooked vegetable to require mastication. If not over-done, the water hanging on cooked vegetables is easily shaken off ; the juice in vegetables is valu- able. If Greens are fresh the water does not usually begin to smell till they are ready cooked. The 91 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY water in which Greens have been cooked should be poured at once down a drain, and not in the sink. Green vegetables should be green when cooked. They are always put in salted and fast boiling water. The lid of the saucepan may be kept on for a minute or two after putting in the vegetables, but must be removed directly the water again boils. All scum should be taken off carefully. A lump of sugar should always be put in the water with green vegetables when cooking. CABBAGE Take off all coarse and discoloured leaves and cut off the bottom of the stalk. The Cabbage should lie for a short time in salted water in order to draw out all insects. Cut the bottom of the stalk across both ways about an inch deep, especi- ally if the heart is very close. Put the Cabbage in boiling salted water without a cover, taking off all scum. The water must boil fast all the time. Add a lump of sugar. Directly a skewer will go in the stalk, drain the Cabbage in the colander and shake off the water. Cut the Cabbage across both ways two or three times. Melt a good piece of butter in the pan, put in the cabbage, season, and shake over the fire for a few minutes. Dish and serve very hot. GREENS Greens are many and various. They are cooked and finished in the same way as Cabbage, and being small take a short time only. 92 VEGETABLES vSPROUTS These should be all of the same size. They are trimmed, cooked and finished as Cabbage. CAULIFLOWER A Cauliflower requires good soaking and looking over. It is cooked in the same way as Cabbage. The flower should be put downwards in the water at first, and care should be taken to avoid breaking it. All scum must be removed. After thoroughly draining, dish the Cauliflower, pour melted butter over, and season with pepper and salt. FRENCH CAULIFLOWER After draining the Cauliflower, cut it in neat pieces, and lay on a small fireproof dish. Pour melted butter over, sprinkle with brown bread- crumbs and grated cheese, pepper and salt. Brown under the grill, or in front of the fire, and serve on the same dish. CAULIFLOWER WITH CHEESE SAUCE Cauliflower Grated Cheese, i oz. W^hite Sauce vSeasoning Boil and drain the Cauliflower. Lay it on a greased fireproof or soufile dish. Make a good White Sauce, stir in the grated cheese and a little coralline pepper. Pour the sauce over the Cauli- flower and serve as a savoury vegetable. CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN After covering the Cauliflower with the Sauce as 93 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY in the preceding recipe, sprinkle over a little more cheese, put some small pieces of butter on the top, and brown under the grill, in front of the fire, or in the oven. SPINACH Pick out all discoloured leaves, tear off the thick stalks and wash well (without bruising) in several waters, to get rid of grit. Spinach is cooked with- out water. Pack it in a small saucepan, pushing well down, as it reduces very much in cooking. Sprinkle with salt, and turn over occasionally. It is cooked when the fork will go through the leaves, and takes only a few minutes. Drain in a colander, and shake well. Put it on a board, make it into a ball, and cut through with a chopping knife again and again till it is fine. Melt a good piece of butter in the pan, return the Spinach, shake pepper and salt, and a pinch of white sugar. Stand the pan on the stove without a lid, shaking it occasionally till the Spinach is sufficiently dried. Serve very hot. Cream may be used instead of butter. Spinach when cooked should be a good green. SPINACH, A VEGETABLE ENTREE Dish the cooked Spinach piled up on rounds or squares of fried bread. Garnish with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, rubbed through a wire strainer. SPINACH AND EGGS Make a bed of the cooked Spinach on a dish, and serve with poached eggs on it. 94 VEGETABLES GREEN PEAS Peas should be young, and freshly shelled. Cook in fast boiling salted water, add a lump of sugar, sometimes a sprig of mint, and cook without a lid. Drain directly they are tender. Serve in a hot dish, with a good piece of butter and a shake of pepper. PEAS AND BACON Cut thin slices of Bacon and fry till the fat is clear. Put the cooked Peas in the frying pan with the Bacon, and warm in the fat. Season well, dish together and serve very hot. Peas may also be served with Ham (see French Beans and Ham). PEA-PODS At the end of the season when the Pods will not £11, they can be picked young, strung, and boiled like French Beans, and finished with butter. FRENCH BEANS Cut off the stalk of French Beans and string down each side. Cook them whole if young. Or, cut across slant-wise three or four times. Or, slice finely. Boil quickly as Peas, drain, return to the pan, and finish with butter, cream, or good salad oil. Season well. FRENCH BEANS AND HAM Half-pound of cut Ham i lb. French Beans Yi Wineglass White Wine Butter Boil the French Beans, and finish with butter. 95 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Take thin slices of Ham and make into rolls. Put the Ham in a soup plate with a little white wine or melted glaze, cover with another plate, and warm through over a saucepan of hot water. Arrange the ham on a dish with the Beans. Ham ready- cooked is sold at many good shops. BROAD BEANS Broad Beans should be young and fresh shelled. Boil as Peas, and serve with butter melted. Some- times sprinkle with chopped Parsley. Broad Beans are excellent eaten with Boiled Pork on Bacon. SEAKALE Wash the Seakale and scrape when necessary. Tie it in small bundles. Cook in boiling salted water till tender. Drain well, dish, and pour melted butter over. CELERY Celery may be cooked as Seakale. Or boil in a small quantity of stock, when it is tender put on a dish, reduce the stock, put in a little glaze, and pour over the Celery. MARROW A Marrow should be gathered small, young and green, and is best cooked whole. Peel the Marrow, and cook in boiling salted water till just tender. Avoid over-cookisg. Drain well, cut open the Marrow, take out the seeds, dish, and pour over butter melted, pepper and salt. 96 VEGETABLES ASPARAGUS Scrape the stalks of Asparagus, cut to equal lengths, tie in bundles, and stand in salted water. Cook in boiling salted water. If the pan is deep enough, stand the Asparagus with the heads out of water. Avoid over-cooking. Drain carefully and place on a hot dish. Serve butter melted in a sauceboat GREEN ARTICHOKES These should be young and small. Boil the Artichokes in salted Avater till just tender. Drain carefully, and squeeze slightly, as the water lies between the leaves. Serve with melted butter in a sauceboat. GREEN CORN Maize should be very young. The sheath and fibres are removed and the corn cooked in boiling salted water. Or the corn gives a delicious flavour to soup if cooked in it. Serve with butter. MUSHROOMS These should be fresh gathered and pink under- neath. Peel the Mushrooms and cut the stalks short. Melt butter in a fireproof dish, put in the Mushrooms, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter on each. Cover with greased paper, cook in a hot oven for lo or 15 minutes, or more, according to the size. Send to table in the dish in which they are cooked. Or they may be D 97 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY served on toast with some of the liquor poured over them. Mushrooms may be cooked in an earthenware stewpan with a little butter, a few drops of lemon juice, and seasoning. Or with a little milk and butter. MUvSHROOMvS AND BACON Heat the frying pan and put in the Bacon. When it is partly done put in the prepared Mushrooms and fry together. A good breakfast dish. TOMATOES The small bright red Tomatoes are the best and are cooked whole. Wipe with a cloth, take off the stalks. Melt a small piece of butter in a fireproof dish, put in the Tomatoes and cook in the oven till they are just soft to the touch. They are quickly done and should keep their bright colour. Or bake the Tomatoes in a souffle dish with butter, brown crumbs and grated cheese. Tomatoes may be fried with Bacon (see Mushrooms and Bacon). If the Tomatoes are too large to cook whole, cut in halves, and run out some of the juice and seeds before cooking. PARvSLEY FRIED Fried Parsley is served with Fried Fish, Rissoles, etc. Take good sized sprigs, wash and dry. When other frying is finished turn off the gas under the frying fat and put the Parsley in at once. It will make a great splutter. As soon as the fat quiets, 98 VEGETABLES collect the Parsley quickly with the frying spoon, and drain on paper. It cooks in about a minute. Fried Parsley should be green and crisp. DRIED VEGETABLES All dried vegetables require soaking in water for some hours to restore their lost moisture. They are cooked slowly without salt, and with the sauce- pan covered. HARICOT BEANS (DRIED) Soak I lb. of Haricot Beans for some hours, picking out any that are discoloured. Put them in a casserole with warm water and cook gently till tender. They will take about 2 hours' simmering. Strain and dish. Stir a large piece of butter in with the Beans and season well. Sometimes sprinkle with finely chopped Parsley. Cold Haricots are excellent mixed with a dressing of oil and vinegar and eaten as a salad. They also make a good soup. BUTTER BEANS (DRIED) These are soaked, cooked, and finished as Hari- cot Beans. GREEN PEAS (DRIED) These are soaked and finished as Haricot Beans. A sprig of fresh Mint put in the pan the last half hour. 99 SALADS THE following are the vegetables generally eaten as salads. Lettuce, Endive, Water- cress, small Cress and Mustard, Toma- toes, Cucumber, Celery, Celeriac, Beet, Radish, Horseradish, Spring Onions, etc. French Gar- deners have introduced , various other salads. The young leaves of Dandelion, and Nastur- tium, and Nasturtium Seeds are edible as salads. Salads are made of one or several vegetables, as convenient. All green stuffs for salads should be fresh gathered. To crisp up, cut off the end of the stalks, and stand in cold water. Salad Greens should be washed just before they are required (not soaked), well shaken, and dried. Lettuce is lightly torn, not cut. Beetroot (see to Boil), already cooked, is scraped, cut in slices, cubes, or (with a vegetable cutter) into balls. Cucumber, which should be ripe, is peeled, cut in slices, cubes, or balls. Radishes are scraped, served whole, or cut up. Horseradish and Celeriac are peeled and finely scraped. Tomatoes are served whole if small, or cut in quarters or slices, and some of the juice and seeds run off. If scalded they are easily skinned. SALADS OF COOKED VEGETABLES All cold cooked vegetables, provided they are not 100 SALADS watery, can be mixed with a dressing, and eaten as salad. GARNIwSH FOR SALADS A Garnish for salads is chosen with regard to colour, as well as to taste. Any of the following may be used. Hard boiled egg cut in slices or quarters. Olives, stoned. Capers. Gherkins, or any pickle. Boned Anchovies in oil. Coralline pepper. Finely chopped Parsley. SALAD DREvSSINGS The following are used in the making of a Salad Dressing. Olive Oil. Malt, Tarragon, and Chili Vinegars. Salt. White Sugar. Peppers. Eng- lish and French Mustards. Yolk of egg, raw and cooked. Cream can be used in place of oil. Lemon juice used sparingly in place of vinegar. The proportions of these ingredients is altered accord- ing to taste. vSALAD DRESSING (i) Malt Vinegar, i tea- Made Mustard, J^ tea- spoon spoon Tarragon Vinegar, i White Sugar, i teaspoon teaspoon Pepper, Salt Oil, 2 tablespoons Dissolve the seasonings in the Vinegar, and pour over the Salad. Now pour over the oil, and mix lightly and thoroughly. lOI THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY SALAD DRESvSING (2) Cream, 2 tablespoons Sugar, Salt, Pepper Mixed Vinegar, 2 tea- Mustard, ^ teaspoon spoons Mix the seasonings with the cream, and stir in the Vinegar drop by drop. Pour this over the Salad, and mix very well. MAYONNAISE DRESSING Yolk of Egg, raw Mustard, Salt, Sugar, Oil, 2 tablespoons Pepper Mixed Vinegars, 2 tea- spoons Put the yolk of egg in a small basin, stir con- tinuously round and round with a small wooden spoon. Add one tablespoon of the oil drop by drop, the Vinegars in which the seasonings have been dissolved, the second tablespoon of oil, drop by drop, stirring all the time. The dressing should be smooth, and of the consistency of cream. It should stand in a cool place. The yolk of a hard boiled egg may be stirred in with the raw egg if liked. A dessert spoon of boiling water may be carefully added to the dressing, and will make it go further. TARTARE DRESSING This is a Mayonnaise Dressing with the addition of a chopped Gherkins, or Capers. A SPRING SALAD Lettuce Beet Cucumber Radishes 102 SALADS Wash, dry, and tear up the Lettuce. Peel and cut up the Cucumber. Scrape and cut up the Radishes. Put all in a small bowl or on a dish, and mix well with No. i Salad Dressing. RUSSIAN SALAD Cold Vegetables Mayonnaise Dressing Take any cooked vegetables, Potatoes, Carrots, Cauliflower, Peas, Beans, Beet, Cucumber, etc., and cut in neat pieces. Put all in a dish. Pour the Mayonnaise Dressing over, and mix well to- gether. POTATO SALAD Take cold waxy Potatoes, cut them in rather thick slices and lay on a dish. Pour over Dressing No. 2. Mix well, and sprinkle with finely chopped Parsley. A Spring Onion cut in thin slices can be added if liked. LOBSTER SALAD A Lobster Tomatoes A Lettuce Tartare Dressing Take the Lobster from the shell, and cut in convenient pieces with a silver knife. Prepare the Lettuce and Tomatoes. Mix the Lobster with the Salad, and pile it up on a small dish. Pour Tar- tare or Mayonnaise Dressing over. The Lobster is more easily found if arranged in the centre of the dish, with the Salad round. Decorate with any Garnish, and sprinkle Lobster Coral or Coralline Pepper over the fish., 103 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY SALMON MAYONNAISE Remove the skin and bones from cold Salmon, divide it into convenient pieces, or flake with two forks. Arrange the fish on a dish. Pour Mayon- naise Sauce over and put the Salad round. Decor- ate according to taste. Any cold fish can be served this way. CHICKEN SALAD Cold Chicken Mayonnaise Sauce Celery Remove the skin and bones from some cold Chicken, and cut the meat into small pieces. Cut an equal quantity of crisp Celery into small pieces. Mix the Chicken and Celery together. Pour over a good Mayonnaise Sauce, and stir thoroughly. MEAT SALAD Cold Meat Hard Boiled Eggs Ham or Tongue Salad Take any pieces of cold Meat, free from skin and gristle, and Ham or Tongue. Cut up small, mix with a good dressed Salad of cooked or raw vege- tables. Cut the Eggs in quarters and put round the dish. Or put the Meat in the centre and the Salad round. ORANGE SALAD 6 Oranges Port Wine White Sugar Peel the Oranges, scrape them carefully to re- move all pith. Cut them in rough pieces with a 104 SALADS sharp knife, avoiding the core and pips. Put the fruit in a glass dish, sprinkle with a little sugar, according to the sweetness of the fruit. Pour over a tablespoon or two of Port Wine, and sprinkle with a little Coralline Pepper. Cover, and let the Salad stand for an hour or two. This Salad, though chiefly eaten with hot Wild Duck and Black Game, is excellent with cold Meat or Game. The Wine can be omitted. FRUIT SALAD Tomatoes, ^ lb. Bananas, 2 Apples, 3 Salad Dressing Scald and skin the Tomatoes, and cut into rough pieces, pouring off some of the seeds and juice. Peel and core the Apples, and cut into small quarters. Peel the Bananas, and cut in thick slices. Pour over Salad Dressing No. i or No. 2, using Tarragon Vinegar only, and omitting the Mustard and Salt. This Salad is served with any cold Meat. For Fruit Salads for Dessert, see Sweet Dishes. 105 SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS THE making of a Sauce requires time and great care. Smoothness is a necessity, lumps mean undissolved and uncooked flour, and their sequence is indigestion. Sauces are not essentials, and a menu can easily be spoilt by the repetition of Sauces with the same foundation of butter and flour. Where time is valuable, Melted Butter (dissolved butter) or Maitre d'Hotel Butter are quickly prepared, and always liked as a Sauce; for sweet dishes a Jam Sauce has the same advantages. In making a Sauce, the butter is weighed with a generous hand, the flour is weighed short. Should a Sauce be too thick (flours vary), more liquor must be added. Flour requires to be cooked, and not only to be thickened. A small pan and a wooden spoon are used in Sauce making. The smooth blending of butter and flour (making the foundation of a Sauce, a Roux, white or brown), the careful adding of the liquor, and thorough cooking of the flour, forms an important process in cookery. The same process is used in Vegetable Soups, Soufiles, and many other dishes, and should be thoroughly mastered. MELTED BUTTER Put butter in a small sauceboat, stand it on the io6 SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS stove till it dissolves, and skim. Serve with vege- table^, fish or meat. A teaspoon of Anchovy Essence may be added. MAITRE D 'HOTEL BUTTER Dissolve some butter, add chopped Parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice, and mix well. WHITE SAUCE Butter, Fresh, i oz. Milk or White Stock, Flour, I oz. or Corn- ^ pint flour Pepper, Salt Weigh a full oz. of butter, dissolve it in a small pan. Lift o£E the fire, and with a wooden spoon stir in a short ounce of sifted flour. When this is smooth, return to the fire and fry the butter and flour together for a minute, without colouring. Add the milk, a little at a time, stir continuously, and keep smooth. Boil the Sauce for about six minutes to cook the flour, season with pepper and salt. This is the foundation of many Sauces. Flour must always be sifted. All milk, or all white stock (meat, fowl or fish), or half milk and half stock may be used. A spoonful of cream stirred in at the last moment is a great improvement. PARSLEY SAUCE Wash and dry the Parsley, chop it fine, and stir into a White Sauce. EGG SAUCE Boil two eggs hard. Chop them up, stir into a 107 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY White Sauce, and warm up. Add more milk if necessary. CAPKR SAUCE Chop Capers, stir into a White Sauce, adding with care a little of the vinegar. ONION SAUCE Boil Onions, chop, add to a White Sauce, stir over the fire to heat up again. CELERY SAUCE Cut up cooked Celery, and stir into a White Sauce. Warm it up again. ANCHOVY SAUCE Make a White Sauce, stir in Anchovy Essence to taste. Add a few drops of Carmine. SHRIMP SAUCE Pick cooked Shrimps, stir into a White Sauce, add a little Anchovy, and two drops of Carmine. OYSTER SAUCE Take fresh or tinned Oysters. If they are large, cut in halves with a silver knife, strain the liquor into White Sauce, and warm the Oysters in it. '^ DUTCH SAUCE I Make a White Sauce with half fish or other white •' los ; SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS stock, take it off the fire, put in a yolk of egg and stir vigorously till smooth. Warm the Sauce over the fire, and put in carefully a few drops of lemon juice. BROWN SAUCE Butter, I oz. Brown Gravy, 5^ pint Flour, I oz. Seasoning, Glaze Weigh a full ounce of fresh butter, dissolve it in a small saucepan. Lift it off the fire and with a wooden spoon stir in a short ounce of sifted flour. Fry till brown, but not burnt. Dissolve half a tea- spoon of glaze or Lemco in the gravy (or stock) , add it gradually to the butter and flour, stirring all the time, and keeping smooth. The Sauce must boil some minutes to cook the flour. Season with pepper and salt. Half a teaspoon each of Worces- ter, Ketchup, Anchovy or Tomato Sauces may be stirred in. Or a tablespoon of port wine. Or a teaspoon of red or black currant or blackberry jelly. PIQUANTB SAUCE Make a Brown Sauce. Chop up Capers, Gher- kin, or any pickles, add a little of the vinegar and stir well in. Make hot and serve. PANADA Butter, I oz. Flour, i oz. Milk or Stock, i gill Seasoning A Panada is a thick Sauce used for binding, as for Rissoles, Lobster Cutlets, etc. It is made as a White or Brown Sauce ; using half the usual amount 109 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY of liquor, which may be milk, stock or gravy. The flour must be well cooked. MINT SAUCE Wash and dry fresh Mint, chop it finely ; put in a small tureen with white sugar, pour over sufficient vinegar, and let it stand for some hours. Stir well. APPLE SAUCE Peel, core, and cut up the Apples, put them in a pan with brown sugar to taste, and a little water. Cover, and cook gently till quite soft, stirring occa- sionally. BREAD SAUCE Milk, 5^ pint Bread Crumbs, 2 oz. Onion, small Cream, a tablespoon Peppercorns Salt Simmer the Onion and Peppercorns in the milk for ten minutes. Strain the milk over the bread- crumbs, put all back in the saucepan and let the Sauce thicken a little. Season well; add the cream or a piece of butter. MAYONNAISE SAUCE Eggs, 2 yolks Tarragon Vinegar, i tea- Oil, 2 tablespoons spoon Salt, Sugar Mustard Malt Vinegar, i teaspoon Work the yolks in a basin with a wooden spoon, put in half the oil, drop by drop. Dissolve the sugar, salt, and mustard in the vinegar, and add slowly, stirring evenly all the time; then drop in no SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS the rest of the oil. A dessert spoon of boiling water may be added carefully, and makes the Sauce rather thinner. TARTARE SAUCE This is Mayonnaise Sauce with Capers or Gherkins, finely chopped, stirred into it. DEVIL SAUCE Melt about 5^ oz. of butter in a small pan, add a teaspoon each of Mushroom Ketchup, Anchovy Sauce and Pepper Sauce, a pinch of sugar, salt, black pepper, and about a gill of brown gravy. Make very hot. The Sauce may be varied by using red wine and red currant jelly instead of gravy. Or by adding chopped Capers, Chillies, made mus- tard, or pickles. GLAZE Glaze cannot be made economically in a small establishment. It is best bought in a small glass jar. Stand the jar in hot water or on the lid of a saucepan till the glaze is sufficiently dissolved. Put it on Meat and Birds with a brush, which should be afterwards rinsed in stock to avoid waste. Or add the glaze to Gravies and Soups with a spoon. Glaze should be quite cold before putting away. If a little mould appears on the top of the jar, wipe it off with soft paper, it will not affect the rest. GRAVY All Gravies should be good, of some food value > III THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY When stock is poor, or a poor colour, add Lenico, glaze or Marmite. A little Worcester, Ketchup, Anchovy, or Tomato Sauce may be added (not enough of any one to taste). Or a teaspoon of port or sherry. Or a teaspoon of red currant or any fruit jelly, according to the dish with which the Gravy is served. Small joints make little gravy. Food already cooked makes no gravy. That added to it when warming up must be especially good. FORCEMEAT Breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. Herbs and Seasoning Fat Bacon, 2 ozs. ^SS Rub stale bread through a sieve, the quantity required. Chop the Bacon small ; add Parsley and herbs chopped and rubbed very fine, season, and bind with as much of the egg as is needed. This is a stuffing for Meat and Poultry. Also for mak- ing Forcemeat Balls. Suet may be used instead of Bacon. Mashed Potato instead of crumbs. CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT Chestnuts, ^ lb. Butter, i oz. Breadcrumbs, 2 oz. Egg, Seasoning Cut off the tops of Chestnuts, and boil or bake them for about ten minutes. Take off the skins and simmer the Chestnuts in stock or water till tender. Rub through a sieve, pound with the butter, add the crumbs, seasoning, a pinch of sugar and egg to bind. This is a stuffing for Turke^^, Fowl and Pheasant, and is made in the quantities required. The crumbs may be omitted. 112 ^SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS MINCEMEAT Raisins, i lb. Mixed PeeK, ^ lb. Currants, i lb. Moist Sugar, i lb. Dates, 3^ lb. Lemons, 2; Orange, i. French Plums, Yz lb. Mixed Spice and ground Beef Suet, Yz lb. Ginger, i teaspoon Apples, I lb. Brandy, Y2 tumbler Stone the Raisins, Dates and Plums. Peel and core the Apples and cut in dice. Cut the Candie.d Peel small. Chop the Suet very finely. Put these all together and mince very thoroughly. Clean the Currants in a little flour, pick them. Add the cur- rants, sugar and spices to the chopped fruit, the thinly grated rind of the lemons and oranges and the juice. Mix all well together, add the brandy and stir well again. Press the Mincemeat closely into small jars, cover and keep in a cool dry place. In making Mincepies be liberal with the Mincemeat. SWEET SAUCES JAM SAUCE Raspberry Jam, 2 table- Sugar, 2 or 3 lumps spoons Lemon Juice Water, i gill Dissolve the sugar in the water, stir in the jam, and let it just boil ; add a squeeze of lemon juice and pour through a strainer. Add carmine if a poor colour. Serve hot or cold with puddings. Any jam or jelly can be used, or marmalade. A 113 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY teaspoon of sherry may take the place of lemon juice. CHOCOLATE SAUCE Cocoa (good), I oz. Milk, 5^ pint White Sugar, i oz. Egg, i yolk; Vanilla Mix the cocoa and sugar with a little of the milk. Boil the rest of the milk, pour on to the cocoa, stir- ring well. Return to the pan and let it boil. Put the yolk in a small basin, pour the cocoa over very slowly, stirring hard. Return to the saucepan and stir or whisk over the fire to slightly thicken the Sauce, a few minutes only. Do not let it boil after putting in the egg. x\dd Vanilla Essence to taste. SABAYON SAUCE Eggs, 2 White Sugar, a good oz. Sherry, i gill Whisk the eggs and sugar well, add the sherry carefully. Stand the basin over a saucepan of hot water on the fire and whisk till the Sauce is thick. If cooked too much it will curdle. CUSTARD can be used as a Sauce. CREAM if obtainable is always preferred to a Sauce, and the cost is about the same. If too thick, it is carefully thinned down with a little milk. Or the cream may be whipped. 114 SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES MACCARONI CHEESE Maccaroni, 4 oz. Butter, i oz. Dry Cheese, 3 oz. Milk, yi pint Seasoning Flour, 3^ oz. BOIL water in a small stewpan, add salt, put in the Maccaroni, and boil till just tender. It should offer enough resist- ance when cooked to require mastication. Strain in a colander. Make a sauce, melting the butter in the stewpan, stir in the flour and cook, add the milk, stirring all the time, and keep- ing all smooth. Boil for about six minutes. Add the boiled Maccaroni to the sauce, the cheese grated, pepper, caj^enne, and salt, a little made mustard (if liked), and stir till quite hot. Serve on a fireproof dish. Some tomato essence may be stirred in, or small tomatoes, skinned, cut in quarters, and cooked in the sauce before adding the Maccaroni. The Maccaroni may be Pipe, Ribbon, Spaghetti, or any other. MACCARONI AU GRATIN Cook the Maccaroni and sauce as Maccaroni Cheese, stirring in half the cheese only. Place it in a greased fireproof dish, sprinkle with the remainder of the cheese, some brown bread crumbs, and small pieces of butter. Put in a hot oven, under 115 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY the iron sheet, to brown .quickly, or under the gas grill. Serve ver3^ hot. TOMATOES AU GRATIN (see Vegetables) CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN (see Vegetables) SAVOURY RICE Rice, y^ lb. Tomato Pulp, 2 table- Grated Cheese, 2 oz. spoons Stock Seasonings Butter, I oz. Boil half a pound of Rice in boiling salted water till nearly soft. Strain it and put back in the pan with a little good stock, which the Rice must absorb. The pan must be uncovered. Stir in the butter, grated cheese, tomato, and season well. Pile up on a very hot dish, and serve very hot. CHEESE PUDDING Milk, Yi pint Butter, i oz. Breadcrumbs, 3 oz. Dry Cheese, 2 oz. Eggs, I or 2 Seasonings Melt the butter in the milk, pour it warm over the crumbs. Stir in the cheese, mustard, pepper, and salt, and the beaten yolk of eggs. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, and fold them in carefully. Pour into a buttered souffle or pie dish and bake for tvv'enty or thirty minutes. Serve at once. CHEESE AIGRETTES Butter, Yi oz. Cheese, i oz. Water, i gill Fine Flour, i oz. Egg, I Seasoning 116 SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES Put the butter and water in a small pan. When melted, lift off the fire and sift in the flour, beating it till quite smooth. Return to the fire, and boil for about six minutes, till the sides of the saucepan are left clean. Put in a basin, when a little cool beat in the €^gg very thoroughly, keeping it all light. Fold in the cheese, pepper and cayenne. Let this get quite cold. To fry, heat the frying fat in a stewpan till it smokes. Beat up the batter again, take out small pieces with a teaspoon and put in the boiling fat, not more than six or eight at a time. When the Aigrettes are a golden brown (do not let them burst), take out with a wire spoon and drain on soft paper. The fat must smoke again before more batter is put in. Serve piled up on a dish paper, and garnish with parsley. CHEESE STRAWS Flour, 4 oz. Cheese, 2 oz. Butter, 2 oz. Egg, i. Sift the flour, rub in the butter, add the grated cheese, cayenne, and black pepper. Mix to a dry paste with as much tgg as is required. Roll out about an eighth of an inch thick, cut into small sticks of even sizes, lift up with a knife, put on a tin, and bake a light brown. Serve hot or cold. Tie in small bundles with narrow ribbon. Cheese for grating may be Parmesan, Gruyere, Cheddar (mixed), or any other that is dry, and not green. 117 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY SAVOURIES Savouries are arranged according to the material available, and may be varied indefinitely. Scraps of meat, game, fowl, fish, etc., can all be worked in with a little thought. Savouries are highly seasoned, and served very hot, or cold. The foundation is usually a round, square, finger, or crescent of brown bread buttered, toast, fried bread, pastry, plain or savoury biscuits. Savouries may be garnished with any of the following : — Hard boiled egg. Coralline pepper, Parsley, small Mus- tard and Cress, Capers, Pickles. ANGELS ON HORSEBACK Oysters, 6 Fried Croutes Bacon Cayenne Cut very thin slices of fat Bacon, bat them out thinner with a knife. Season the Oysters and wrap one in each slice of fat. Place each on a round of toast or fried bread, and cook in the oven for about five minutes, or till the bacon fat is clear. Season with cayenne and black pepper, and serve very hot. Or these may be covered and cooked over a gas ring. DEVILLED ROES Take the soft Roes of fresh herrings, fry lightly in butter, season highly with salt, pepper and cayenne. Serve very hot on fried bread or toast. DEVILLED SHRIMPS Take cooked shrimps which are shelled, warm in ii8 SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES butter. Add a drop of lemon juice, season highly with pepper and cayenne, and serve on croutes or buttered toast. DEVILLED SARDINES Take Sardines, warm in some of their own oil, add a drop of lemon juice, season very highly, serve hot on toast. HAM TOAST Take Ham, or Tongue, and mince very finely. Warm in a small pan with a piece of butter. Add a few chopped Capers, or a little Chutney, pepper, and cayenne. When quite hot pile on buttered toast or fried bread. Scraps of Game, Chicken, Fish can be used up in the same way. TOMATO TOAvST Butter, y^ oz. Grated Cheese, 2 oz. Tomato Conserve, i Peppers tablespoon Melt the butter, add the thick Tomato Sauce, the grated cheese, a pinch of black and Coralline peppers, and make very hot. Pour on fried bread or toast. ANCHOVY FINGERS Pu5 Pastry Egg Anchovies Coralline Pepper Cut fingers of Pastry, brush over with ^%%, lay a fillet of anchovy (preserved in oil) on each finger. Cover with pastry, brush over with ^%gy and bake 119 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY lightly. Garnish with Coralline pepper and parsley. DEVILLED BISCUITS Thin Captain, Water, or Cheese Biscuits can, be used. Make the biscuits very hot in the oven, or on the grill. Spread with Anchovy, Bloater, or Parsley butter, sprinkle with cayenne, and serve as hot as possible. ANCHOVY BUTTER Work fresh butter and Anchovy Paste well together. Or Bloater Paste, or any potted fish or meat. PARSLEY BUTTER Wash and dry Parsley, and pick it off the stalks. Press into a small ball, and cut again and again till very fine. Pound it in a small mortar with fresh butter, working the two well together. MEDICI BISCUITS (COLD) Cheese Biscuits Butters Make tiny balls of Fresh, Anchovy, and Parsley Butter, working a little pepper in each. Put a red, green, and yellow ball on each biscuit. SARDINE FINGERS Sardines Hard Boiled Egg Brown Bread Parsley Butter some fingers of brown bread. Skin the Sardines, take out the backbone, and lay a fish on 120 SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES each finger. Chop the white of egg, nib the yolk through a fine strainer, cut the Parsley very fine. Decorate the Sardines with the three colours, and shake Coralline pepper on the white of egg. SAVOURY SANDWICHES Chop finely any pieces of cold Chicken, Meat, Ham or Tongue, and pound in a mortar with one or two hard boiled yolks, a piece of butter, some chutney, pepper, and salt. Spread rather thickly on thin white or brown bread and butter; cover, and press the pieces together. Cut in rounds, squares, triangles, fingers, or crescents. SARDINE SANDWICHES Skin the Sardines and take out the backbone. Pound the fish in a mortar with a hard boiled yolk of eggy a little oil from the tin, pepper and salt. Make the sandwiches as above. Sandwiches must always be packed in greaseproof paper. 121 A EGGS LL eggs must be fresh, or they are unwholesome as well as unpalatable. BOILED EGGS Boil water in a small pan, put in the eggs care- fully, and look at the clock, allowing from 3/^ to 45^ minutes according to taste. Take out the eggs with a spoon. POACHED EGGS ? Boil water in a shallow pan, add salt and a little vinegar or lemon juice. Break the eggs in carefully (or into a small cup first). Simmer till the white is set, lift with a wire spoon, and drain off all the water. Trim the edges if necessary. Serve on buttered toast, or on buttered Anchovy Toast. Or on Spinach (see Spinach). EGGS IN GRAVY Poach the eggs in good stock. Dish on rounds of toast, placed on a small fireproof dish. Pour off nearly all the stock, dissolve in the remainder a little glaze, pour this very carefully with a spoon over the eggs, and serve. ii EGGS BAKED EGGS Melt a little butter in a small fireproof dish. Break in as many eggs as are required. Put a small piece of butter on each and stand in a moderate oven till the white is set. Or cover and stand on the stove, or on a gas ring with an asbestos mat under the dish. EGGS IN SMALL CASSEROLES Melt a little butter in small casseroles or fireproof soufile cups ; put an egg in each. Sprinkle with brown crumbs, chopped parsley, grated cheese, and put a small piece of butter on each egg. Or a spoonful of cream or milk. Stand the cups in a fry pan, pour boiling water round, cover and sim- mer till the white is set. FRIED EGGS Heat deep fat in a fry pan till it smokes. Break in the eggs carefully, avoiding splashing. As soon as the white is set, lift the eggs with a wire spoon, and drain. Fry thick squares of stale bread till brown. Serve an egg on each. EGGS AND BACON Heat a fry pan, cut the bacon thin, taking off all rind, and fry till the fat is clear. Keep it hot on a hot dish. Tip the pan a little, and break the eggs carefully into the bacon fat. Fry till the white Is set ; lift with a wire spoon, and serve with the bacon. Triangles of bread may be fried brown in the pan. 123 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY BUTTERED EGGvS Eggs, 3 Toast Milk, 3 teaspoons Butter, i oz. Make three or four rounds of toast, butter and keep them hot. Beat the eggs and milk lightly. Put the butter in a small saucepan, add the eggs, pepper and salt, and stir with a small' wooden spoon till the eggs begin to thicken. Pour over the toast and serve at once. A spoonful of tomato essence may be added to the eggs for a change, or finely chopped parsley may be sprinkled over. EGGS IN SAUCE Boil eggs for four and a half minutes, take off the shells. Put the eggs in a small deep dish (or in saucers) . Have a good White Sauce ready and pour over. Garnish with chopped parsley and Coralline pepper, and serve at once. Or the eggs may be hard boiled (ten minutes cooking). The Sauce may be Tomato, Anchovy, Cheese, Curry, or a good gravy with a little glaze dissolved in it. EGG CUTLETS Hard Boiled Eggs Egg and Breadcrumbs White Sauce (Panada) Frying Fat Boil the eggs for ten minutes, and stand in cold water, unless they are to be used at once. Take off the shells and chop up rather coarsely. Make a Panada (or a little cold White Sauce can be used), stir in the chopped &gg and season well. Smooth 124 EGGS the mixture on a plate, leave it to get quite cold. Cut across, and divide it into quarters, again into as many cutlets as are required. Shape on a board, rub lightly in flour, brush over with egg^ cover with breadcrumbs, and fry a golden brown in deep smoking fat. Drain, dish on a paper, garnish with parsley. vSCOLLOPED EGGS Cut hard boiled eggs in large pieces, mix with a little sauce, and season well. Put into greased Scallop shells, one egg to each ; sprinkle with brown bread crumbs, put a small piece of butter on each, and heat through. SCOTCH EGGS Hard Boiled Eggs (4) Egg and Breadcrumbs Sausages, 5^ lb. (4) Frying Fat Boil the eggs for ten minutes, take off the shell. Cover each one with a sausage, previously skinned and flattened out. Work to a good shape, roll in a little flour, brush over with egg, cover with white crumbs, and fry in deep smoking fat, cooking not more than two at a time. Drain on soft paper. Cut the eggs across in halves, and serve hot with a little good gravy flavoured with tomato. Or serve cold, garnished with small cress. STUFFED EGGS Boil the eggs for ten minutes. Put in cold water. Take off the shell, cut across in halves. Take out 125 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY the yolk, pound it with anchovy paste, or potted fish, potted him or tongue, chopped parsley, etc* Fill the whites with the mixture, and dish with small cress round. Or serve on brown bread and butter. SAVOURY OMELETTE Eggs, 3 Fresh Butter, or Lard, Milk, 3 teaspoons ^ oz. Parsley and Herbs Divide the eggs; beat the yolks with the milk, add pepper and salt, finely chopped parsley and herbs. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth. Heat the butter in a fry pan. Fold the whites lightly into the yolks. Lift the pan when the butter smokes, pour in the eggs, and cook a minute or two till the bottom is set ; try the edge with a spatula. Add a little more fat at the side of the pan if it is necessary. Hold the pan under the grill or before the fire to lightly set, but not harden, the top of the omelette. Slip it on a hot dish, folding it over at the same time. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately. The table must wait for an omelette. Small quantities of cooked fish (flaked), shrimps, or stewed kidneys (chopped and warmed), etc., may be put into an omelette at the moment of folding. An omelette can be made with one, or any number of eggs. CHEESE OMELETTE Stir finely grated Cheese, a pinch of salt, cayenne and black pepper into the yolk of eggs. Mix and cook as Savoury Omelette. 126 EGGS vSWEET OMELETTE Stir white sugar and Vanilla Essence into the yolk of eggs, mix and cook as Savoury Omelette. A spoonful of warm jam may be put in at the moment of folding. Sprinkle the omelette with icing sugar. 127 SWEET DISHES JUNKET Rennet (tablets) Brandy or Rum, i tea- New Milk, I pint ' spoon White Sugar, i teaspoon PUT the new milk in a jug; cover, and stand in a saucepan of hot water till it reaches blood heat, a few minutes only. Break up the rennet, and dissolve in a teaspoon of water. Put this in a china or glass bowl or dish, pour the milk over and stir in the brandy and sugar. Let it stand in the kitchen, without moving, till the Junket is set. Whip cream lightly (3d worth) and pile on the top. Or clotted cream. If the milk is made too hot (it will be hotter at the bottom than at the top of the jug), it will not set firmly. Vanilla essence can be used instead of brandy ; or nutmeg grated over after the Junket has set. SOUR MILK Put any uncooked milk left in a small glass dish, cover with a paper, and stand a day or more on the rack above the stove, till quite thick. Eat with white sugar. This is a hot weather dish. 128 SWEET DISHES RICE PUDDING Carolina Rice, 2 oz. Milk, i pint vSugar, 2 teaspoons Butter, y^ oz. Salt Flavouring Melt the butter in a souffle or pie dish, and run it up the sides. Wash the rice in two or three waters, put it in the dish with the white sugar, a pinch of salt. Pour in the milk, and grate a little nutmeg on the top. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty or forty minutes. Milk puddings are creamy if cooked slowly. They are best made without eggs. All puddings should stand for some minutes to set after taking out of the oven. Over cooking, or cooking too quickly must be avoided. This milk pudding may be taken as a standard, and the same proportions and method used in the making of others. Tapioca should be crushed with a rolling pin. Sago may be large or small. MaccarOj^ji if large or stale must be soaked. Vermiceli.! and Spaghetti make good puddings. Nut butter, suet finely shred, or dripping, may be used in place of butter. Lemon or orange rind, cut very thin, any essences or spices may be used for flavouring. RICE MILK Carolina Rice, 2 oz. White Sugar, 2 tea- Milk, I pint spoons Salt Butter, ^ oz. Lemon Rind Put the milk in an earthenware, or other pan. E 129 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY When it nearly boils add the washed rice, salt and sugar. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon, and simmer slowly till the rice is soft and creamy. Stir in the butter and grated lemon rind and serve hot or cold. If this is cooked in a double or porridge pan it requires less attention. It is a good plan to put an asbestos mat under the saucepan. Other starch foods, as in the preceding recipe, may be cooked in the same way. RICE MERINGUE Rice, 2 oz. White Sugar, 2 tea- Milk, I pint spoons Egg, I Butter, ^ oz. Salt and Flavouring Cook the rice, as Rice Milk. Take it off the fire, cool for a few minutes, and stir in quickly the yolk of an e:gg and half a teaspoon of Vanilla Essence. Put this into a greased souffle dish. Beat the white of egg to a stiff froth, pile it on the rice, sift over white sugar, and place in a moderate oven till the meringue is set. Serve hot or cold. A layer of jam may be put under the meringue, or a little stewed apple or other fruit. BLANCMANGE Cornflour, 2 oz. White Sugar, 2 tea- Milk, I pint spoons Flavouring Stand the milk on the stove in a small earthen- ware or other pan, with a piece of lemon rind cut very thin. Mix the cornflour and sugar smooth in 130 SWEET DISHES a small basin with a little extra milk or water. When the milk nearly boils take out the rind, pour slowly over the cornflour, stirring it well. Return all to the pan, stir carefully and continuously with a wooden spoon, as it bums easily. Boil for eight or ten minutes, till the sides of the pan are left clean. Pour the blancmange quickly into a wet mould or souffle dish. Do not turn it out till quite cold. Serve with jam on the top or round; or whipped cream. CHERRY MOULD Make as Blancmange, colour with carmine, when nearly cooked flavour with a few drops of Cherry Essence. Put glace cherries in the bottom of a large, or several small darriole moulds, and pour the mixture carefully in. Turn out when cold. Whip half a gill of cream and put on the top, or round the moulds. CHOCOLATE MOULD Cornflour, i]4 oz. White Sugar, i oz. Good Cocoa, i oz. Milk, i pint Vanilla Essence Mix the cornflour, cocoa, and sugar smooth with a little extra milk or water. Make as Blancmange, and flavour liberally with Vanilla Essence. Pour into a wet souffle dish, or plain mould. Serve with whipped cream piled on the top. CUSTARD Milk, I pint White Sugar, i oz. Eggs, 3 Flavouring THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Beat the eggs in a basin, leaving out two of the whites, add a pinch of salt. Put the milk in a saucepan, stand it on an asbestos mat and heat it over the fire till nearly boiling. Stir the eggs vigorously, pour the milk on to them slowly, and add the sugar. Return to the pan, stir with a wooden spoon over gentle heat till the custard thickens a little, coating the spoon. (If a custard boils it curdles.) Lift off the fire and continue stirring for a few minutes. Add Vanilla or other flavouring. Serve the custard in small glass cups. Or in a glass dish, and float meringue cases on the custard ; or Savoy Biscuits with jam between. Grated coconut stirred into the hot custard makes a Coconut Custard. CUSTARD (BAKED) Mix the eggs and warm milk, as in the preceding recipe. Grease small souffle cups, pour in the custard, and bake till set in a moderate oven. A few minutes only. Or bake in a souffle dish for about twenty or thirty minutes. BATTER PUDDING (BAKED) Flour, 3 oz. Milk, 5^ pint Egg, I Butter or Dripping, i oz. Sift the flour and salt in a basin ; make a hole in the centre, put in the egg and a little of the milk. Work from the middle with a wooden spoon, keep- ing perfectly smooth, and light, and adding a little more milk, as required. When all the flour is mixed beat vigorously till light. Add the rest of 132 SWEET DISHES the milk and let the batter stand for an hour or two. Melt the dripping in a baking tin, or earthenware dish, running it well up the sides; pour in the batter and bake for about three quarters of an hour. The time must vary with the size of the' tin. When ready, move the pudding to a hot dish, and cut up to eat with meat. Or serve in the baking dish, and eat with brown sugar or syrup. BATTER PUDDING (STEAMED) Flour, 4 oz. Milk, ^ pint Egg, I Salt Make a batter as for Baked Batter. Grease thoroughly a souffle dish, enamel, or china basin. Pour in the batter, cover with greased paper, and steam gently for about an hour. Take off the paper, and let the pudding stand a minute to settle. Put a dish over the basin and turn over carefully. Serve with butter and brown sugar, jam or golden syrup. PANCAKES Flour, 4 oz. Milk, ^ pint Egg, I Lard Make the batter as for Steamed Batter Pudding, and let it stand to thicken. Take a small shallow fry pan, rub it out with soft paper. Heat a small piece of lard in it, till the smoke rises. Lift the pan up, and pour in enough batter to cover the bottom. Fry till a light brown underneath, turn with a spatula (a flexible flat bladed knife) and lightly brown the other side of the pancake. Turn over on 133 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY to crushed soft paper, fold in three, put on a hot dish, and keep warm. Pancakes take a long time unless cooked with method. It is a good plan to measure out the batter for each into a small cup; about 2 tablespoons, or more. Immediately a pan- cake is turned out of the pan, a small piece of lard should be put in to get hot, the next batter poured in at once, and while it is frying the preceding pancake is folded. Pancakes should be served quickly, a second dish can follow. Serve with quarters of lemon and white sugar. FRITTERS Pancake Batter I^ard Heat lard in a frying pan, enough to cover the bottom, till it smokes. Pour in tablespoons of batter, a few at a time. When the fritters are a golden brown, lift them with a frying spoon, and drain on soft paper. Serve at once on a dish paper sprinkled with sugar. The dish and plates should be very hot. FRUIT FRITTERS Peel and core some apples, cut in thick slices, and rub in white sugar and powdered cinnamon. Make a Pancake Batter, dip in the slices of apple, and fry as Fritters. Or bananas cut lengthwise or other fruit. A Frying Batter (see recipe) can be used if preferred to the Pancake Batter. GERMAN FRITTERS Stale Bread Milk Bgg Jam 134 SWEET DISHES Cut wide fingers of bread, about half an inch thick, or more. Beat up the egg, add a little milk, a pinch of sugar, and powdered cinnamon. Dip the fingers in the custard, roll lightly in fine bread crumbs, and fry a golden brown. Serve very hot, a spoonful of jam on each. LEMON SOUFFLE (STEAMED) Butter, I oz. White Sugar, i oz. Cornflour, i oz. 2 or 3 Eggs Milk, I gill Lemon Melt the butter in a small saucepan, lift it off the fire and add the sifted flour. Return to the fire, stir well, pour in the milk slowly, and cook till thick and smooth. Turn into a basin. Divide the eggs ; stir the yolks into the flour and milk, beating vigorously and keeping it quite smooth. Add the sugar, and grated rind of one or two lemons (the yellow only). Beat the whites of eggs till stiff, and fold very lightly into the mixture. Pour at once into a prepared souffle dish and steam gently for twenty or thirty minutes. Remove the paper at the dining room door, and serve quickly. Or serve cold, with chopped pistache nuts on the top. Or let the souffle stand a minute, turn it out care- fully, and serve with Chocolate Sauce. To prepare a souffle dish, or tin; grease well with butter, and tie round a strip of greased writing paper, rising two or three inches above the dish to hold up the souffle as it rises. 135 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY VANILLA SOUFFLE Make a souffle mixture as in the preceding recipe, flavour with vanilla, and bake in a hot oven. Serve as soon as it is ready, removing the paper at the dining room door. BEIGNETS SOUFFLES Butter, I oz. Fine Flour, 2 oz. White Sugar, i oz. Egg, i Water, i gill Flavouring Sift the flour into a small basin. Boil the water, butter and sugar together, pour slowly over the flour, and beat well. Return to the pan, and cook for about six minutes, stirring and keeping smooth. Lift off the fire, add the flavouring and beat the egg in vigorously. This should be made some time before it is wanted, and must be cold before frying. To fry, the fat must be deep enough to cover the Beignets, and smoking hot. Beat the batter up well again, take neat pieces out with a teaspoon, put in the fat, 6 or 8 at a time. Fry a golden brown, do not let the fritters burst. Drain on paper. The fat must smoke again before putting in more fritters. Pile the Beignets up on a dish paper, sprinkle with icing sugar, and serve very hot. OMELETTE SOUFFLE Eggs, 3 White Sugar, 2 oz. Butter, ^ oz. Vanilla Essence Divide the eggs ; beat the yolks and sugar together until thick and creamy, add the vanilla. 136 SWEET DISHES Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, fold them care- fully in with the yolks. Pour into a greased fire- proof dish, and put in a very hot oven for a few minutes till set. Serve the omelette at once in the same dish. The table must wait for an Omelette Souffle. SWEET OMELETTE Eggs, 3 Butter, % oz White Sugar, 3 tea- Milk, 3 teaspoons spoons Divide the eggs ; beat the yolks with the milk and sugar. Add the flavouring. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, with a pinch of salt, fold them lightly into the yolks. Heat the butter, or lard, in a fry pan. When it smokes, lift the pan; pour in the eggs, cook a minute or two, till the bottom is set and lightly browned. Hold the omelette under the grill or before the fire to lightly set the top. Slip on a hot dish, folding the omelette over; sprinkle with icing sugar, and serve at once. A large spoonful of any jam warmed, may be put in the omelette when folding. An omelette can be made with one or any number of eggs. Victoria Sandwich. Castle Puddings. (See Cakes.) Swiss Roll. Jam Sandwich. (See Cakes.) 137 CREAMS CREAM must be kept in a cool place. Creams made without gelatine are very- simple, and excellent eating. Fruit Creams and Fools are much the same thing. Where the greater quantity is cream, it is so called. Where the fruit predominates, it is a Fool. Any quantity, however small, of cream and fruit can be made into a Cream or Fool. Sugar, flavouring and colouring, are added to taste. Decorations of Creams. The following are used. Glace cherries, Angelica, violets, rose leaves, lilac, pistache nuts, grated lemon and orange rind, pink sugar, &c. Cream to Whip. The object of whipping is to make cream light by dividing it, patting in air, greatly increasing its bulk. If overwhipped, cream becomes thick and granulated, approaching butter. The folding in of fruit, &c., must be done carefully and lightly with a wide sweep of the spoon to avoid flattening the whipped cream. RASPBERRY CREAM Raspberries, i lb. Cream, ^ pint Red Currants, 2 oz. Sugar, 2 oz. Rub the fruit and the sugar through a hair sieve, Qdd a teaspoon of brandy if liked. Whip the 13S SWEET DISHES cream, fold in the fruit pulp very lightly and grad- ually, add a few drops of carmine if the colour requires it. Serve in glass cups, or fruit salad plates. Strawberries, Bi^ackberries, Loganberries, and other soft fruits are made into creams in the same way. Apricots (tinned) require a squeeze of lemon juice, a teaspoon of brandy, and a few drops of Carmine to colour. Jam, melted, rubbed through a sieve, a squeeze of lemon juice added, can be used in creams, instead of fruit. SPONGE CREAMS Crumble some stale sponge cakes and soak in Cherry Liqueur ; fold these into whipped cream ; sweeten, add a few divided glace cherries. Put the cream in small glass cups, decorate with cherries and small pieces of Angelica. BROWN BREAD CREAMS Rub stale bread through a sieve, soak the crumbs in Maraschino or a little brandy and flavouring essence. Add sugar, fold the crumbs into some whipped cream. Put into glass cups and decorate with crystallized violets. RICE CREAMS Take some cold rice, or rice pudding, divide it, flavour and lightly fold in whipped cream. Decor- ate to taste. 139 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY CHOCOLATE CREAMS Rich Cocoa, i oz. Cream, 5^ pint (or less) Sugar, I oz. Vanilla or Cinnamon Mix the cocoa and sugar with a little milk, put in a pan and let it just boil. Leave it to get quite cold. Whip the cream, fold in the strong cocoa and flavouring and serve in small glasses. COFFEE CREAMS Use strong black coffee, or Coffee Extract, flavour with Vanilla, and sweeten well. Fold in whipped cream, serve in glasses and decorate with violets. Savoy biscuits or sponge fingers should be served with most small creams. VELVET CREAM Cream, ^^ pint Sherry, a wine-glass Gelatine, % oz. Lemon Rind White Sugar, 2 oz. Water, i gill Melt the leaf gelatine slowly over the fire in the water. Pour it in a basin, add the sugar, sherry, and grated rind of a lemon and let it cool, but not set. Whip the cream, fold in the melted gelatine, and pour at once into a wet mould. Turn out when set. CHARLOTTE RUSSE Savoy Biscuits, 12 White Sugar, i oz. Cream, J^ pint Gelatine, 5^ oz. Milk, I gill Flavouring Take a pint souffle tin, or dish. Line the bottom with the split biscuits, trimming and fitting them, and brushing the edges with white of ^^g to make 140 SWEET DISHES them stick together. Line the sides with the bis- cuits, letting the tops stand just above the tin. Put this in the oven for a couple of minutes to dry the white of tgg, and see that the case when dry- slips easily out of the tin. Melt the gelatine slowly in the milk, and let it cool. Whip the cream, add the sugar and flavouring ; fold in the gelatine lightly and pour into the mould. Lift the Charlotte Russe out of the tin when set and decorate with glace fruits. RHUBARB FOOL Stewed Rhubarb and Cream Oranges Take some stewed rhubarb (see Stewed Fruit) ^ and rub through a sieve. Whip some cream till it nearly stands, and fold in the fruit lightly. Serve in glass cups, small saucers or plates, and hand sponge fingers. Stewed gooseberries, blackberries, or other stewed, or tinned fruits are made into fools in the same way. Flavouring, sugar and colour are added to taste. LEMON JELLY Lemons, 2 Gelatine, i oz. Loaf Sugar, 2 oz. White and shell of i Sherry, a tablespoon Egg Water, % pint Whisk the white of egg slightly and crush the shell. Take the rind of the lemons and squeeze the juice. Put all the ingredients, except the sherry, in a stewpan, and whisk over the fire till it bubbles. Remove the whisk and boil up. Lift the 141 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY pan for a minute, replace, and let it boil up again. Stand for ten minutes at the back of the stove. Strain the jelly gently through a hot cloth into a basin, and add the wine. Pour into glasses or moulds to set. CLARET JELLY Cla.et, i< pint Loaf Sugar, 3 oz (or Water, li pint more) Lemon, i Leaf Gelatine, ^ oz. 2 Cloves Red Currant Jelly, i I WTiite of Egg and tablespoon Shell I inch Cinnamon Whisk the white of tgg slighth' and crush the shell. Put all the ingredients in a pan, and proceed as with lemon jelly. A few drops of Carmine improves the colour. Pour the jelly in glass or china moulds, or small glasses. Turn out, and serve with whipped cream. LEMON SPONGE An}' lemon, or other jelly left over will make a Sponge. Put it in a basin and stand over warm water till dissolved. Whisk the whites of one or two eggs, add the liquid jelly carefully; flavour, sweeten, and colour to taste, and continue whisk- ing. When the sponge starts setting pour at once into small moulds. A small quantity of whipped cream may be folded in with the white of ^gg and jelly. FRUIT STEWTED All fruit that is ripe and sound is best eaten raw. 142 SWEET DISHES Fruit to be stewed should be cooked in a syrup; keeping it whole when possible, preserving the flavour and colour, and avoiding over cooking. In winter stewed fruits may be served warm. A S\-rup. Put li lb. of loaf sugar, and % pint water in a stewpan and bofl f or a few minutes, taking o5 any scum. This is the quantity required for stewing about 2 lbs. of frmt. STEWED APPLES Make a syrup (see above) flavoured with thin lemon rind. Peel the apples, if smaU core and cook them whole; if large cut into quarters and take out the core. Put the apples in the hot syrup, keeping them whole, and simmer very gently till a skewer will just go through. lift out the apples with a wire spoon and arrange neatly on a glass dish. Boil up and reduce the syrup, colour rather deeply with Carmine; let it cool, and pour over the apples. STEWED PEARS Are flavoured with cloves, stick cinnamon, or lemon rind, and cooked as Stewed Apples. STEWED RHUBARB Rhnbaib Oranges A Synrp The sticks of rhubarb should be all of the same thickness. Wipe with a doth, take the skin og only if the rhubarb is coarse. Cut into pieces two inches long. Make a syrup, flavoured with orange rind (see Syrup). Simmer the rhubarb slowly in 143 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY the syrup, keeping it whole. Take it off the fire. Peel two oranges, scrape off all the white skin carefully; cut in slices, avoiding the pips, and stir into the hot rhubarb, but do not cook. Serve cold. STEWED BLACK CURRANTS Make a Syrup (see Syrup). String the currants with a silver fork, put them in the syrup, and simmer gently for a short time according to ripe- ness. Put in a glass dish and serve with plenty of cream. COLD FRUIT PUDDING Line a pudding basin with slices of bread without crust. Fill up with the hot Stewed Currants, putting in the fruit with a spoon and adding as much syrup as the basin will hold. Cover with bread, stand a saucer and weights on the top, and leave the pudding till next day. Turn it out and serve with cream. Ripe Blackberries or Rasp- berries and Currants may be warmed in a little syrup till the juice begins to run, and made into a pudding as above. FRUIT SALADS Fruit Salads are arranged according to the fruits available. When fruits are juicy they will make a syrup with added sugar, when allowed to stand for some time. Otherwise a syrup must be made, and allowed to boil for some minutes (see Stewed Fruit). Half the quantity (a gill of water and 4 oz. of sugar) will probably be enough for a salad. A 144 SWEET DISHES small tin of any fruit makes a good foundation for a salad. The syrup is improved by boiling up with more sugar and reducing. It may be flavoured with any liqueur, and coloured with Carmine if liked. RASPBERRY SALAD Raspberries, i lb. White Sugar Red Currants, % lb. Raspberries should not be picked till ripe, and are best uncooked. Pick the raspberries, string the currants with a silver fork. Put the fruit in a bowl, shaking white sugar between each layer. Cover and stand in a cool place for several hours. Stir when serving. Hand sponge fingers. BLACKBERRY SALAD Blackberries should not be picked till ripe and juicy, and are best uncooked. Pick ripe black- berries into a bowl, looking them over very care- fully. Shake in white sugar generously between each layer of fruit. Add a teaspoon of brandy if liked. Cover and stand in a cool place for several hours. ANGELS FOOD Oranges Coconut Bananas Sugar Peel the oranges, and scrape off all the white skin. Cut into rough pieces with a sharp knife, avoiding core and pips. Peel the bananas and cut up. Mix the fruit in a glass dish with white sugar. Sprinkle liberally with grated coconut. 145 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY A teaspcx)n of Maraschino or brandy may be added if liked. Cover and stand in a cool place for several hours. A FRUIT SALAD Pine Apple Chunks (a Cherries small tin) Walnuts Oranges Sugar, Brandy Bananas Strain the pineapple juice into a small pan, and boil up with some lumps of sugar for about five minutes. Skim, lift off the fire, cut the chunks in halves and put in the syrup, adding a little brandy or liqueur if liked. Cover, and put aside to get cold. Peel the oranges, scrape off the white skin, and cut up roughly, avoiding the core and pips. Peel and cut up the bananas; stone a few ripe cherries. Put all the fruit in a bowl, adding the pineapple and syrup, and dried walnuts. Stand the salad in a cool place for some hours. Tomatoes are excellent in a fruit salad, they should be small red and ripe. Remove the skin, cut in halves or quarters, and run off the seeds and water 146 PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS ONLY light hands can make good pastry. It is not a necessary article of food, and unless time and care can be given it, is best left alone. In towns it is readily bought made by expert pastry makers. Vol-au- vents, and Patty Cases ready to be filled are made to order. Flour. Fine white flour makes the lightest pastry, but household flour can be used, except for pufF pastry. A self-raising flour is one that has the raising, or baking powder already mixed in it. Paisley flour is excellent for raising pastry; it is used in the proportion of one ounce to eight ounces of flour. With most baking powders one teaspoon is required to each half pound of flour. With light hands this quantity can be lessened. All flours with their raising should be carefully sifted and aerated. Butter used for pastry must be fresh, not what is known as cooking butter, which contains much salt and water, and is often strong in taste. Butter and lard may be used in equal proportions. Dripping makes good rough pastry, but should be creamed with a knife on a plate, making it lighter in texture and colour, and removing any strong flavour. Vege- 147 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY table butters or fats are excellent for pastry, pro- vided they are not too hard. All fats used for pastry making should be of the same consistency as the pastry v/hen mixed. Fat is rubbed into the flour with the tips of the fingers. By first beating it to a cream (if at all hard), a great deal of the rubbing is saved. All pastry is mixed with water as cold as pos- sible. The quantity of water required for mixing cannot be given, depending on the quality of the flour. The finer flours take up more moisture than the coarser ones. Short crust is mixed as dry as possible, or it will not eat short. Other pastries should be mixed to an elastic dough. Pastry, to Roll. Flour the board and pin lightly. Make short sharp rolls, lifting the pin constantly, and never going over the edges of the pastry. Keep it tidy and of even thickness. Pastry should be handled as little as possible. The first rolled pastry is always the best. Pastry may be kept (uncooked) in a cool place for several days. Pastry, to Bake, It should be put into a hot oven, so that it may rise quickly. The oven door to be opened only when necessary, and must not be banged. If the pastry is browning too much, the top iron sheet should be removed. When the pastry of a pie is done and the meat or fruit not ready, cooking may be continued on the top of the stove, standing the dish (on an asbestos mat), over gentle heat. PufF Pastry should only be attempted by hands that turn out good Short and Flaky Pastry. 148 PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS SHORT PAvSTRY (i) Flour, Yi lb. Baking Powder, i tea- Butter and Lard mixed, spoon 4 oz. Salt, a pinch Mix the butter and lard together with a knife. Sift the flour and baking powder into a basin. Rub the fat into the flour with the tips of the fingers. When this is fine, with no lumps, add salt, stir with a knife, working always from the centre. Pour in a little water, and mix as dry as possible. Tidy the dough, leaving the basin clean, place on a floured board; beat the pastry out with the rolling pin, and roll to the required thickness. Short pastry is used for meat pies, tarts, tartlets, &c. If required richer the proportion of butter is in- creased. Short pastry should eat short and crumbly. SHORT PASTRY (2) Flour, Yz lb. Baking Powder, i tea- Butter, 4 oz. spoon White Sugar, a teaspoon Bgg, i yolk Water Make as Short Pastry i, adding the sugar and mixing with the yolk of ^%g beaten with a little water. This Short Pastry is used for tarts, and other sweet dishes. FLAKY PASTRY Flour, i.< lb. Paisley Flour, i oz. or Butter, or other fats, Baking Powder, i tea- 4 oz. spoon 149 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Sift the flour and Paisley flour into a basin, add the salt. Cream the butter on a plate, and divide it in four portions. Rub one quarter lightly into the flour with the tips of the fingers. When fine pour a little water in the centre, use a knife for mixing, and make a neat elastic dough, leaving the basin clean. Flour the board and pin and roll the paste in a long strip. Put on another portion of the fat in little dabs, keeping well inside the edges ; sprinkle with flour, fold in three, press the edges of the pastry together to keep in the fat, turn over and round. Roll the pastry out again in a long strip. Put in another quarter of fat, sprinkle with flour, fold, and turn round and over. Roll out again^ and put in the last fat; sprinkle with flour, fold in three, turn the pastry round and over, and it is ready for use. In rolling pastry the neat side is always kept towards one, the edges top and bottom. An even thickness should be kept. A larger quantity of butter can be used if a richer pastry is required. Flaky pastry rises in flakes, or layers, air being folded in at each turn. The air, as it gets heated, raises the pastry. PUFF PASTRY Fine Flour, ^ lb. Egg, i yolk Fresh Butter, 6 oz. Lemon Juice Sift the flour into a basin, make a well, drop in the yolk, a little water, a squeeze of lemon juice, and mix to a firm elastic paste. Work the paste till smooth, leaving the basin quite clean. Lightly flour the board and roll the pastry out ip a long 150 PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS strip. Soften the butter with a knife, till of the same consistency as the pastry, and make it into a square, an inch narrower than the strip. Place the butter in the centre of the pastry, cover it evenly with both ends of the strip ; press the edges with the rolling pin to keep in the butter, turn the pastry over and round. Give it three or four sharp beats with the rolling pin ; sprinkle with flour, and set it in a cool place for 15 minutes. Again roll the pastry in a long strip, using a little flour as re- quired ; fold it in three, turn over and round, and roll it again, making two rolls. Set aside for 15 minutes and again roll twice, making four rolls. Set aside for 15 minutes and again roll twice, mak- ing six rolls. Set aside for 15 minutes and roll again. This, the seventh roll, is the last, and the pastry is ready for pies, vol-au- vents, patties, &c. More butter can be used if a richer pastry is re- quired, but it is then more difficult to handle. It is a good plan to make Puff Pastry the day before it is required. Puff Pastry rises or puffs considerably, air being put in with each fold. The air rises when heated, and puffs the pastry. STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE Steak, I lb. Flaky Pastry (see re- Sheeps Kidneys, 4 cipe) Seasoned Flour Make seasoned flour by mixing i tablespoon flour, I teaspoon salt, 5^ teaspoon pepper. Scald the kidneys, and cut each into four. Cut the steak in thin slices, put a piece of fat in each, make into 151 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY small rolls, rub in seasoned flour, and put in a pie dish. Flour the kidneys and put in with the meat. Pour in water to three parts fill the dish, and wet the edges. Make Flaky Pastry. Roll out about half an inch thick, cut strips, and lay them on the edges of the dish. Brush over with egg, lay on the pastry cover without stretching, pulling it in a little just inside the rim of the dish. Cut off the rough edges with a sharp knife, and make a stand up frill with the back of the knife. Make a large hole in the centre of the pastry, brush it over with eggy and decorate with a rose, leaves, &c. Brush these over with egg, put the pie in the oven, stand- ing it in a tin for easy handling. Bake for about an hour. Hard boiled tggs, mushrooms (peeled), oysters, pigeons (quartered), or smaller birds, may be put in this pie; or balls of sausage meat or forcemeat. VEAL AND HAM PIE Veal Cutlet, i lb. Seasoned Flour Bacon or Ham, 4 oz. Flaky Pastry (see re- Hard Boiled Eggs, 3 cipe) Mushrooms Make seasoned flour, as iti the preceding recipe, adding grated lemon rind, chopped parsley, a pinch of cayenne. Cut the meat in medium sized pieces. Slice the bacon very thin, and make in small rolls. Peel the mushrooms, and cut them up if large. Make as Steak and Kidney Pie. Balls of sausage or forcemeat may be used instead of the bacon. 152 PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS RABBIT PIE A Tame Rabbit Mushrooms 4 Kidneys or half a Seasoned Flour pound of Ox Kidney vSausages Cut the rabbit in ten or more pieces (see Rabbit Ragout). Scald, skin, and cut up the kidneys. Peel the mushrooms ; make balls of the sausages, or of forcemeat. Make the Pie as Steak and Kidney Pie. Be careful that the hole in the top is kept open to let the steam escape. Extra gravy can be added if required, using a funnel for pouring it in. If the rabbit is a wild one, it must be carefully cleansed, cut up, put in the pie dish, covered, and gently stewed in the oven for quite an hour on the orevious day. MEAT PATTIES Raw Meat Flaky Pastry (as re- cipe) Cut Up small any scraps of raw meat; season, and moisten with a little stock or water. Roll out the pastry, cut two rounds for each Patty and line the Patty tins. Brush round the pastry with egg, fill the tins with meat, put on the covers lightly ; make a hole in the centre of each with a sharp pointed knife, and frill the edges. Brush over with egg and bake in a hot oven. Steak and kidney, veal and ham, mutton, chicken, game, may be used for patties. If the meat is already cooked it must be mixed with good gravy. Flaky Pastry (as recipe) makes about eight meat patties. Rub out the Patty tins while hot with soft paper. THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY SAUSAGE ROLLS Sausages, Yz lb. (4) Flaky or Puff Pastiy (see recipe) Skin the sausages, cut in halves, and roll each piece lightly in flour to the length required, an inch shorter than the square of pastry. Roll out the pastry, cut in strips about 4 inches wide with a sharp knife, and cut each strip into squares. Brush round with ^%%y lay on a piece of sausage, fold over the pastry, and press the edges lightly together with the back of the knife. Put the rolls on a flat tin, glaze with ^z%i bake in a hot oven for about twenty minutes. Flaky pastry (as recipe) will make eight sausage rolls. MEAT PASTY Meat, raw or cooked Pastry, short or flaky, Water or Gravy i^ lb. Seasoning Take a wire, or other plate, or round tin. Roll out the pastry thin, line the plate, and wet the edges. Cut the meat up small, and put it on the pastry; season well, and moisten with water or gravy. Brush round the edges with ^%%. Roll out the rest of the pastry in a round, and cover the Pasty. Trim the edges, make a hole in the centre, decorate with a rose, leaves, &c. ; brush over with cgg> and bake in a hot oven. FRENCH PIE This is made in a French Pie dish of glazed earthenware, the cover taking the place of pastry. 154 PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS The dish is packed tight with meat, rabbit, chicken. &c., cut up, and rubbed in seasoned flour, as other pies. Add bacon, sausage balls, kidneys, mush- rooms, oysters, and water or stock to three parts fill. The cover is put on, and the pie is cooked slowly in the oven for one or two hours, according to size. To be eaten hot or cold. VOL-AU-VENT Puff Pastry (see recipe) Cold Chicken Mushrooms White Sauce Make Puff Pastry, roll out the seventh time about an inch thick. Dip a round, or oval, cutter in boiling water, wipe dry, and cut the pastry for the Vol-au-Vent. With a small cutter mark a round in the centre of the pastry. Put it on a flat tin, brush over with egg, and bake in a good brisk oven ; open the door as little as possible, and avoid banging. When the pastry is cooked remove the marked centre (which makes the cover), with a sharp-pointed knife, and take out the soft inside paste. Fill the Vol-au-Vent, stand it in the oven for a few minutes, and serve quickly. For the filling, make a good White Sauce with half chicken stock. Cut the chicken small, stir into the sauce, season well, and let it all warm through. Veal and oysters, game, lobster, all make good Vol-au-Vent fillings. OYSTER PATTIES Roll Puff Pastry out about ^ an inch thick ; cut rounds with a small cutter for the Patties, and mark ^55 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY a smaller round in the centre of each. Put the pastry on a flat tin, glaze with egg, and bake in a hot even oven. Remove the centre piece (making the cover), with a sharp-pointed knife, take out the soft inside paste, and fill with shrimps in sauce, or any of the Vol-au-Vent fillings. Serve hot on a dish paper; garnish with parsley. SUET PASTRY Suet pastry is used for meat, fruit, plain and other puddings, and dumplings. It is steamed or boiled, care being taken that water never touches the pastry during the process of cooking. For raising. Paisley flour (i oz. to 8 oz. flour) or baking powder (i teaspoon to 8 oz. flour), can be used. The flour and raising must always be sifted to- gether. The fat may be beef suet, nut suet, or dripping. Suets are rubbed on a grater, then finely chopped (using flour to clean the knife and prevent sticking), and rubbed into the flour with the tips of the fingers, to insure that there are no pieces of fat large enough to be seen left in a pudding. Dripping is beaten to a cream (on a plate with a knife), and rubbed lightly into the flour with the fingers. Cold water is used for mixing to a firm paste. Suet puddings should be cooked in greased cake tins, or enamel or china basins, and covered with greased paper. Pudding cloths are neither desirable nor necessary. Suet puddings are best cooked in a steamer over fast boiling water. 156 PASTRY, PIES, A.ND PUDDINGS STEAK PUDDING Flour, y. lb. Steak, i lb. Paisley Flour, i oz. Kidney, 4 oz. Suet, 4 oz. Seasoned Flour Sift the flour and Paisley flour (or teaspoon baking powder). Grate and chop the suet finely. Rub it into the flour, leaving no lumps. Add salt, and mix with water to a stiff paste. Grease a pint pudding basin (enamel cooks quicker than china). Roll out half the pastry thin, and line the basin, fitting it well at the bottom. Trim and wet the edges. Scald the kidney and cut it up ; cut up the meat, rub both in seasoned flour and put in the basin. Add water to three parts fill. Roll out the remaining pastry in a round. Cover the basin, gathering up the edges of the pastry, the cover and the lining together. Cover the basin loosely with a greased paper, curling in the edges without tying. Steam the pudding for not less than three hours. Remove the paper and serve in the basin, with a small tureen of gravy. Small birds, mushrooms, oysters, boned anchovies may be added to this pudding. RABBIT PUDDING vSuet Pastry Kidneys, or good stock Rabbit Seasoned Flour Bacon or Pickled Pork The rabbit must be well cleaned and cut up (see Rabbit Ragout), the bacon or pork cut up; the kidneys scalded. Make as steak pudding. If a 157 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY wild rabbit the pudding will require four hours steaming. SUET PUDDING Flour, Yi lb. Beef Suet, 4 oz. Paisley Flour, i oz. vSalt, ^ teaspoon Sift the flour and Paisley flour (or a teaspoon baking powder), rub the suet on a grater, and chop it very fine, using some of the flour to prevent the knife sticking. Rub the suet lightly in the flour with the tips of the fingers, leaving no lumps; add salt and mix with water to a stiff paste. Gather up and tidy the pastry, leaving the basin clean. Place in a well greased tin or enamel basin; cover with greased paper, curl in the edges without tying. Steam over boiling water for two hours. Remove the paper and stand a minute before turning out. Serve with golden syrup. This may be called a standard mixture. It may be made with nut suet, or creamed dripping, instead of beef suet. The following fruits, &c., added to the dry ingredients, before wetting, make as many different puddings. Treacle, Currants, Sultanas, Raisins, Figs, Dates, Marmalade, Ginger, and other Spices, Brown Sugar. ROLY POLY Make paste as for Suet Pudding. Roll it out in an even strip on a well floured board. Spread liberally with jam. Wet the edges, roll up, and press the ends together. The pudding may be cooked in a greased roll bread tin; or in a strong 158 , % PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS greased paper or bag. Steam for two hours^ or bake in the oven. FRUIT PUDDING vSuet Paste Fruit, Sugar Make Suet Paste (as Suet Pudding), line a greased basin (as with Meat Pudding). Peel the apples, cut in quarters, taking out the core, and fill the basin; add brown sugar, cloves, and thin lemon rind. Add as much water as required. Put on the pastry cover, place a greased paper on the top, and steam for about two hours. APPLE DUMPLINGS Suet or Short Paste ' Apples, Sugar Roll out the pastry, cut rounds or squares, and wet the edges. Peel and core medium sized apples ; put one on each piece of pastry. Fill the holes with brown sugar and a clove. Fold over the pastry, turn the dumplings over, put on a tin and bake in a hot oven. APPLE PIE Short Pastry Brown Sugar Apples, 2 lbs. Lemon Peel and core the apples, and cut into quarters. Fill the pie dish, piling the fruit up in the centre. Add brown sugar as required, the grated rind and juice of a lemon, a few cloves or stick cinnamon. Add water, according to the ripeness of the fruit, and wet the rim of the dish. Roll out the pastry, 159 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY cut strips, and lay round the rim of the dish ; brush over the edges with water or egg. Lay on the pastry cover lightly and without stretching; press it down a little, just inside the rim of the dish. Trim round with a sharp knife, and frill the edges. Make a hole in the centre, brush over with M white of &gg and sift sugar over. Put the pie in a ^ hot oven ; the heat may be reduced when the pastry is set and lightly brown and the top iron baking sheet may be removed. The pie should take about half an hour to bake; the fruit can be tried with a skewer. Serve the pie on a dish paper, and sift over icing sugar. All fruit pies are made in the same way. Sugar and water added according to the ripeness and char- acter of the fruit. The dish should always be very full, as fruit reduces in cooking. TREACLE TART Short Pastry Breadcrumbs Golden Syrup or Treacle Powdered Ginger ■ Make Short Pastry (with dripping). Take half the pastry and roll it out thin, keeping it in a round. Fit it on a wire, tin, or other plate. Trim the edges and brush over with water. Pour in golden syrup, sprinkle thickly with white bread crumbs, and add a little ground ginger. Make up the remaining pastry in a round, roll it out, and cover the plate, pressing it lightly just inside the rim. Trim off any rough pieces, and cut across the middle of the pastry three or four times, using a sharp knife. Bake carefully, treacle easily burns. i6o PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS JAM TARTS Take Short, Flaky, or Puff Pastry. Roll it out and line a deep sandwich tin, fitting it in well at the bottom. Trim the edges. Small stars of pastry (cut with a fluted cutter) may be put close together along the edge of the tart; or twists, diamonds, or leaves, may be baked separately and used for decoration. Prick the lining pastry with a fork to prevent it rising, and bake in a quick oven. Fill the tart with jam or lemon curd. The tart may be covered with meringue. Beat a white of tgg till it stands ; fold in lightly an ounce of white sugar, pile it on the jam, shake over a little more sugar, and stand in the oven for a few minutes to set. COCONUT MERINGUE Take an ounce of grated coconut, fold it care- fully to the white of egg and sugar, and pile on the top of the jam. Shake over a little sugar, and put in the oven for a few minutes to set. Eat hot or cold. FRUIT TART (OPEN) Line a deep saucer tin with pastry, and bake as for Jam Tart. Fill neatly with stewed (or tinned) apricots, peaches, apples, cherries, or other fruit. Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly without a lid, adding a little more sugar. Cool the syrup, add a few drops of flavouring if necessary, and a little Carmine. Pour the syrup over the fruit when cold, but not set. Lightly whipped cream may be piled on the fruit. F i6i THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY TARTLETS Roll out any pastry. With a fluted cutter, cut rounds rather larger than the patty tins. These should be of a small size. Fit the pastry in the tins, pressing round the bottom. Prick with a fork, or press in a piece of crust to prevent rising. Bake quickly. Pill the tartlets with jam, lemon curd, a half apricot with a blanched almond in it, or stewed cherries, as in fruit tart. The tartlets may be covered with meringue, coconut meringue^ or whipped cream. CREAM HORNS Roll out pufF or flaky pastry. Cut strips about an inch wide; start at the point of the cornet tin, and wind the pastry round, each piece overlapping the preceding one. Be careful not to stretch the pastry. Lay on a tin, glaze and sprinkle with white sugar. Bake quickly; slip out the tins, and cool on a wire tray. Fill with jam and whipped cream. Sprinkle with chopped pistache nuts. Rub the tins with paper while hot, they are never washed. TURNOVERS Any pieces of pastry can be used for Turnovers. Roll out, cut squares, wet the edges, and put a spoonful of thick jam in the centre. Fold the pastry over, corner to cross corner, and mark the edges with the back of a knife. Or cut the pastry in rounds, wet the edges, put in the jam, fold over, and frill the edges. Put the Turnover on a flat tin, 162 PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS brush over with egg, sprinkle with white sugar and bake in a hot oven. PASTRY FINGERS Roll out any pieces of pastry, cut into fingers of equal size, glaze and bake. Spread half the fingers with jam, and press two together. All pastry should cool on a wire tray or sieve. PI.UM PUDDING Flour, 4 oz. Raisins, i lb. Breadcrumbs, ^^ lb. Currants, i lb. Beef Suet, i lb. Mixed Peel, 4 oz. White Sugar, i lb. Sweet Almonds, 2 oz. Lemon Brandy vSpices Eggs, 6. Stone the raisins, clean the currants with flour and pick them, cut up the peel, blanch and cut up the almonds. Chop the suet very finely, rub it into the flour; add the bread-crumbs, sugar, pre- pared fruit, salt and spices, the juice and rind of half a lemon, and mix all thoroughly. Make a hole in the centre, pour in the beaten eggs, and the brandy, and stir till all the ingredients are well moistened and mixed. More eggs or a little milk may be added if required. Grease the pud- ding basins, cover with thick greased paper (as suet pudding) and steam for about 10 hours. The water should never stop boiling, and will require adding to as it is reduced. 163 BREAD N^ EW bread is liked by most people and should certainly be served whenever poss- . ible. If well made, well baked, and well masticated, it is easily digested. In small house- holds, small loaves make least waste. Standard, wholemeal, and household flours are the most nutritious. Bread is raised with German or brewer's yeast. Baking powder is a substitute for yeast. Paisley flour is excellent for raising. Self-raising flours have the raising already mixed in, and require no other. Yeast. German yeast when fresh is soft and moist. The amount required is less in proportion for a large than for a small quantity of flour. 7 lbs. flour require ij^ oz. yeast. 2,% lbs. flour require i oz. yeast. I lb. flour requires j4 oz. yeast. Wholemeal and brown flours require rather more yeast, and take longer to rise than white flours. In making bread, the basin, flour, water and cloth must all be warm, and kept warm, not hot. If the dough is allowed to get cold, or is overheated, the bread will be unsatisfactory. The amount of water or milk required for mixing cannot be accurately given, as flours vary. The dough when mixed should be elastic; not too dry, 164 t BREAD nor too slack. The water or milk should be warmed to blood heat. Light and springy hands are necessary for kneading. A time for raising cannot be given, as it depends on the temperature. The dough should double in size in a gentle heat, and is then ready to make up. Times for baking depend on the size of the loaves or rolls, and the heat of the oven. 'To test, run a fine skewer in the thickest part of the loaf; it will come out clean and the crust when tapped will sound hollow when the bread is ready. All bread and rolls should cool on a wire tray or sieve, in order to let the steam escape. BREAD Flour, 35^ lbs. Salt, 2 teaspoons Yeast, I oz. ' Warm Water, about 15^ Sugar, I teaspoon pints Warm the flour, and sift it into a warm basin. Work the German yeast to a cream with a teaspoon of sugar; add a little warm water, and stir smooth. Make a hole in the centre of the flour ; pour in the yeast, cover it lightly w^ith flour, and put the salt round the edges. Cover the basin with a cloth and stand it in a warm place till the yeast begins to work. When the flour cracks, pour in the warm water, and mix from the centre with a wooden spoon; adding a little more water as required. When the flour is all mixed, and the basin clean, knead the dough, well, raising it from the sides with the fists and pressing it into the centre. Use flour 165 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY only to prevent sticking. When the dough is light", smooth and elastic, flour it lightly; turn it over, cover with a clotli and put it in a warm place to stand till the dough has doubled in size. Divide into loaves and make up quickly on a floured board. Put the bread on lightly greased earthenware bak- ing dishes, or tins, and stand in a warm place to prove (to rise again) for about ten minutes. Bake in a hot oven; the heat can be reduced once the bread is set. When the bread is ready the crust will sound hollow when tapped, and a skewer run into the loaf will come out clean. The loaves should be placed on a wire stand or sieve, to let out the steam. Dough will rise well on the plate rack of a gas stove, over a lighted gas ring turned to its lowest point. The flour used for bread may be half wholemeal^ and half household. Milk whole, skimmed or separated may be used instead of water for mixing, making a moister bread. Loaves may be cottage, brunswick, brick, tin, twists, knots, &c. A piece of the bread dough should always be made into small rolls of any of these shapes. When baking rolls, brush over with a little eggy or milk, to glaze. VIENNA BREAD White Flour, i lb. White Sugar, i teaspoon Yeast, ^4 oz. Butter, i oz. Egg, I Milk, 5^ pint 166 BREAD Warm and sift tlie flour. Warm the milk. Cream the yeast and sugar together, add a little warm milk, and stir smooth. Make a hole in the flour, pour in the yeast, sprinkle with flour, put a teaspoonful of salt round the edges. Cover the basin with a cloth, and put in a warm place till the flour begins to crack and the yeast to rise. Melt the butter in the milk, and warm to blood heat. Beat the egg, add the milk to it; make a hole in the flour and pour in. Mix the dough from the middle with a wooden spoon till the basin is left clean. Knead till very light and elastic. Cover with a warm cloth and stand in a warm place till the dough doubles in size. Make up half into a plait or twist and divide the rest into rolls of equal sizes. Prove for a few minutes; brush over with egg and bake the bread quicklj^ BREAKFAST ROLLS Flour, I lb. Salt, i teaspoon Paisley Flour, 2 oz. Milk, }4 pint about Butter, 3 oz. Sift the flours together ; rub in the butter lightly, add the salt, and mix from the centre (using a wooden spoon) with enough milk to make an elastic dough. Divide into 12 or more pieces; form quickly into rolls, put on a lightly-greased baking tin, glaze with egg and bake quickly. The butter may be reduced in quantity or omitted. Baking powder may be used instead of Paisley flour. 167 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY BREAKFAST SCONES Flour, Yz lb. Salt, i teaspoon Wholemeal Flour, >^ lb. Butter Milk or Sour Paisley Flour, 2 or 3 oz. Milk Butter, 3 oz. Sift the flours together; rub in the butter, add salt, and a teaspoon of sugar. Mix froin the centre (with a wooden spoon) with enough milk to make an elastic dough. Turn on a floured board, roll out about half an inch thick, cut in rounds or triangles. Put these on a lightly greased tin, and bake quickly in a hot oven. Or cook on a girdle, turning the scones w^hen one side is slightly brown. Baking powder, according to directions, can be used instead of Paisley flour. The butter may be omitted, or nut butter substituted. SCOTCH SCONES Flour, I lb. Cream of Tartar, i tea- Carbonate of Soda, I spoon teaspoon Buttermilk or Sour Milk Sift together the flour, soda, and cream of tartar. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, pour in sufficient milk to make an elastic dough, and mix quickly and thoroughly. Roll out about an inch thick, cut in rounds, and bake in a hot oven. Or cook on a warmed and greased girdle on the top of the stove, turning the scones when one side is brown. SMALL TEA SCONES Flour, li lb. Butter, 2 oz. Paisley Flour, i oz. Sugar, i teaspoon Bgg, I Milk 168 BREAD Sift the flours into a basin ; rub in the butter, add sugar, a pinch of salt, and mix with the beaten egg and milk. Turn on a lightly floured board, roll out rather thin, cut into fingers or rounds. Put on a lightly greased tin, brush over with egg (there should be enough left in the basin in which the egg was beateo) and bake quickly. Split, and butter, and serve verj^ hot. Z69 CAKES OUSBHOLD flour makes good Cakes. If a finer flour is wanted, part cornflour, potato flour, or ground rice can be used. In making Cakes the flour must always be dry, and warm; the baking powder. Paisley flour, or other raising, must be mixed in with the flour, and all well sifted together. The butter used should always be fresh. Vege- table butters or lard make good Cakes. Also dripping, which should be creamed on a plate before using. Eggs must always be fresh. A little milk may often take the place of an egg. To clean currants, sultanas, and raisins, rub the fruit in flour, place it on a wire sieve, shake off the loose flour, and pick out all the stalks carefully. Cut open the raisins, remove the stones, keeping a small basin of warm water near for the fingers. Candied peel if hard should be soaked in boiling water and dried, before cutting up. To grease cake tins, keep lard in a small tin or jar, stand it on the stove to melt before using. Keep a brush for brushing the lard over cake tins and lining paper. To line a cake tin, take good kitchen paper, turn the tin over, cut a round rather larger than the 170 CAKES bottom of the tin. Cut a strip of paper for the sides, higher than the tin, to hold the mixture should it rise above. Brush over both tin and paper with lard, put in the bottom paper first and fit it well. To bake Cakes, the oven must be hot enough to make the mixture rise. Small Cakes are baked sharply. With large Cakes the heat should be slightly reduced when the Cake has risen and set. In baking a large Cake it is generally a good plan to place the tin on an open (barred) sheet, and to remove the top iron sheet. If a Cake is browning too much it may be covered with a paper. If catching at the bottom an asbestos mat may be slipped under the tin. The oven door should be opened as little as pos- sible, and shut gently. It is impossible to give accurate times for baking, which vary with the size of the tin and Cake, the heat of the oven, and other conditions. A Cake which is thick and high will take longer to bake than one of the same weight placed in a large shallow tin. A Cake when ready feels firm in the centre of the top. Try the thickest part of it with a skewer; if it comes out clean with no dough sticking to it, the cake is ready. A Cake mixed with treacle requires careful baking, as it catches easily. Sponge Cakes require a very even heat, and are easiest baked in saucer or small tins. To turn out Cakes. All Cakes are turned out on a wire tray or sieve to allow of the escape of steam. Large Cakes are less likely to break if allowed to 171 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY stand for a couple of minutes after taking out of the oven. Turn the tin on one side, slide the Cake out carefully, and remove the paper. Tins in which Cakes are baked should be rubbed out with soft paper while hot, and allowed to get cold before putting away. They should never be washed. Cakes are kept in airtight tins. METHODS IN THE MAKING OF CAKES The principal mixtures in cake making are the Rubbed, the Beaten, and the Sponge. When these three methods are mastered. Cakes can be varied indefinitely, in flavour, shape, and colour. With the rubbed mixture (as Fruit Cake), the butter is rubbed into the flour with the tips of the fingers. All dry ingredients are prepared and added, and eggs, milk, and treacle are used to mix to a stiff dough. With the beaten mixture (as Madeira Cake), the butter and sugar are creamed together, the yolks of eggs are beaten in, the flour warmed and sifted ; and the whites of eggs, beaten stiff, are folded in gradually, keeping the mixture light. With the sponge mixture (as Sponge Cake), the eggs and sugar are beaten together till very thick and creamy, the flour, warmed and sifted, is folded in very carefully, keeping the mixture very light. Most Cakes are variations of one of these mixtures. When making large Cakes of any kind it is a good plan tc take out some of the mixture and make small Buns or Cakes to be eaten first. A spatula, (or palette knife), is invaluable for 172 CAKES cleaning out basins ; also for beating whites of eggs on a plate. Sour milk can always be used in the mixing of Cakes, and makes them lighter and more spongy than sweet milk. To fold in eggs, etc. In mixing a Cake as much air is put in as possible, to make it light; for this reason eggs are beaten. If these are stirred into the mixture the eggs go down again. To fold in is to put in with a wide sweep of the spoon, so as to add tOi and not flatten out the air. To weigh treacle. Sift a little flour lightly on to the scale, pour in the treacle carefully, stopping it with a knife. Lift the scale tin, and turn quickly right over, letting the treacle fall into the Cake mixture. The tin will be quite dry and clean. FRUIT CAKE Flour, I lb. Currants, 4 oz. Paisley Flour, 2 oz. or Sultanas or Raisins, 4 Baking Powder, 3 tea- oz. spoons Mixed Peel, 2 oz. Butter, 4 oz. Spices, to taste Brown Sugar, 4 oz. Golden Syrup, 4 oz. Pinch of Salt Eggs, 2, and Milk Grease and line the tin, or tins. Sift the flour and baking powder into a basin, rub in the butter with the tips of the fingers. Add the raw brown sugar (no lumps), the fruit, cleaned, picked, and stoned; the peel, cut small; a grating of nutmeg, a pinch of ground ginger, and powdered cinnamon. Mix all the dry ingredients thoroughly together with a wooden spoon. Beat the eggs to a light 173 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY froth. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, pour in the eggs, the syrup, and a little milk as required. Mix very thoroughly to a stiff dough. Bake at once, in one or two tins. Or take out a portion and make into small Buns. Syrup, or treacle, make the Cake richer and darker in colour, and keeps it moist; but is of course not necessary. Treacle is more easily mixed if first warmed, standing the tin on the stove. This is a standard mixture. More butter may be used if a richer Cake is wanted. The fruit and quantities, syrup, spices and flavourings are altered according to taste. Seed Cake. — Substitute i oz. of carraway seeds (or powdered carraways), and 4 oz. or more of candied peel, for the fruit given in Fruit Cake. Coconut Cake. — Substitute 6 oz. or more of grated coconut for the fruit given in Fruit Cake, and flavour with a few drops of almond essence. ROCK BUNS Flour, y2 lb. Candied Peel, i oz. Baking Powder, i tea- Currants, 2 oz. spoon Sugar, 2 oz. Butter, 2 oz. Sour Milk Sift the flour and baking powder; rub in the butter, add the cleaned currants, the crushed sugar, the peel cut in small squares, a pinch of salt, a pinch of spice (if liked), and mix all the dry ingredients well together. Make a hole in the centre, put in the beaten ^%^^ and mix all to a stiff 174 CAKES dough, adding a little sour milk as required. Grease a flat tin, take out small pieces of the dough with a teaspoon, and place them on the tin, leaving room for rising. Bake quickly in a hot oven. Should the mixture be too slack, it should be put in flat tins with holes (generally twelve to a tin), or the buns will run into each other. Seed BuNvS. — Substitute half an oz. of carra- way seeds (or powdered carraways), and 2 oz. of candied peel, for the fruit given in Rock Buns. Coconut Buns. — Substitute 4 oz. of coconut for the fruit given in Rock Buns, and flavour with a few drops of almond essence. Oatmeai. Buns. — Use half medium oatmeal and half flour, and flavour with spices. Make as Rock Buns. GINGERBREAD CAKE Flour, 10 oz. Treacle, 4 oz. Butter, 2 oz. Carbonate of Soda, i tea- Candied Peel, 2 oz. spoon Ground Ginger, 3 tea- i Egg spoons Sour Milk Brown Sugar, 4 oz. Warm and sift the flour, rub in the butter (or creamed dripping), add the ginger, the cut up peel, the raw brown sugar, and mix all well together. Make a hole in the centre; pour in the beaten egg, the warmed treacle, the carbonate of soda dissolved in a little warm milk. Mix and beat very thoroughly with a wooden spoon, adding more mill; if required. iThis is a rather slack mixture. 175 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Crease a Yorkshire pudding tin carefully, and line with greased paper, if the tin is thin. Put in the mixture and bake rather slowly. Small Ginger Cakes can be made, taking out some of the mixture and putting it with a teaspoon in small tins. A blanched almond, or slice of candied peel mav be put on each small Cake when half baked. MADEIRA CAKE Butter, 4 oz. Paisley Flour, i oz., or White Sugar, 4 oz. Baking Powder, i tea- Eggs, 3 spoon Flour, 5 oz. Prepare the tins, large or small, by brushing over with melted lard, and stand them in a warm place. Line the tins with paper if necessary. Stand the flour on the plate rack to warm. Put the butter m a basin, in cold weather slightly warm it. Beat to a cream with a wooden spoon. Sift in the castor sugar, and beat. Add the yolks of eggs one by one, and beat in. Sift the flour and Paisley flour; whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff froth. Fold these in gradually, keeping the mixture light. Flavour with a few drops of essence of lemon, and bake at once. Instead of Paisley flour, one tea- spoon of baking powder to 6 oz. of flour can be used. One Qgg may be omitted, and a little sour milk (or sweet) take its place. This is a standard mixture, and makes one Cake, or about twenty-four or thirty small ones. Flavouring, colour and shape are altered according to taste and available materiaL Small Cakes are generally preferred for afternoon 176 CAKES tea, and are more easily baked than large ones. Flat tins with twelve holes (plain or fancy) are used. The following Cakes are all made with the beaten, or Madeira mixture. Cherry CakEvS are flavoured with cherry essence, a few drops of carmine to colour, and glace cherries cut in halves are stirred in. A whole cherry for the top of each small Cake. Orange and Lemon Cakes are flavoured with the grated rind. Candied peel cut up small is stirred in, and a piece of orange or lemon peel on the top of each Cake. Add a few drops of carmine to colour Orange Cakes. Walnut Cakes are flavoured with a few drops of essence of almond. Pieces of broken dried walnut are stirred into the mixture, and a half walnut placed lightly on each small Cake before baking. Almond Cakes are flavoured with a few drops of almond essence. The nuts are blanched, dried in the oven, a few chopped up and stirred into the mixture, a half almond placed lightly on each cake before baking. Or Pistache nuts. Coconut Cakes. — Stir about 3 oz. of grated coconut into the mixture and add a few drops of almond essence. Chocolate Cakes. ^In making these substi- tute I oz. of good rich cocoa for i oz. of flour, add a little extra sugar, and flavour liberally with vanilla essence. 177 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Coffee Cakes. — Flavour a Madeira cake mix- ture with coffee extract and vanilla essence. Snow CakEvS. — In making these substitute cornflour or potato flour for ordinary flour. Or if the Cakes are preferred less crumbly, use part ordinary and part Potato flour. When the small Cakes are just done, brush over lightly with white of egg, sprinkle with chopped Pistache nuts, and dry one minute in the oven. Victoria Sandwich. — Make a beaten, or Madeira mixture, bake it on a greased flat tin. When cool, cut it through, spread with warm jam, and cut in fingers. Or it may be baked in saucer tins, cut through when cool, spread with jam, and cut in triangles. CAvSTLe Puddings. — Make a beaten, or Madeira mixture, bake in small Darriole tins, which must be only half filled. These are eaten hot or cold, with a jam or wine sauce. SPONGE CAKE Eggs, 2 Flour, 3 oz. Sugar, 4 oz. Vanilla Essence Grease the tin or tins and keep them warm, and warm the flour. Break in a basin two large eggs (or three small). Beat with a flat whisk, add the fine white sugar, and beat till thick, creamy and very light. (In cold weather stand the basin over warm water). Sift the flour (5^ a teaspoon baking powder may be added) and fold it in very carefully, keeping the mixture light. Flavour with vanilla. ) 178 CAKES A Sponge Cake is best baked in a deep thick saucer tin with plain or fluted edges, or in small plain or fancy tins, which must be well greased. Careful baking is necessary. The top iron sheet should be taken out of the oven; the door opened as little as possible, and shut quietly. All Cakes must be turned on a wire tray or sieve to cool. This is a standard mixture, flavouring, colour and shape may be altered to taste. The following Cakes are made with the same mixture. Orange Sponge Cake. — Grate the rind of one or two oranges (the clean yellow only). Stir it into the Sponge Cake mixture, with a few drops of carmine to deepen the colour; make in one Cake, or a dozen or more small ones. Cover with orange icing if liked. Lemon Cake. — Make a Sponge mixture and bake in a deep saucer tin. When cool split, and spread with lemon curd. Cover the cake with lemon icing and decorate with crystalised lilac and Pistache nuts. Chocolate Sponge Cake. — A Sponge Cake mixture, using three small eggs, ^ oz. extra sugar, and i oz. of good rich cocoa sifted in with the flour. Flavour liberally with essence of vanilla. Jam Sandwich. — Make a Sponge Cake mix- ture, and bake in a deep saucer tin. When cool, cut through, spread with warm jam, and press lightlj^ together. Or bake in two shallow saucer tins, and put jam in between. This may be iced. Swiss Roi.1.. — Prepare a shallow flat Swiss 179 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY roll tin, well greasing it, keep it warm. Make a Sponge Cake mixture, pour it in the tin, spread to even thickness with a spatula. Take out the top iron sheet and bake in a hot oven for about seven to ten minutes. Warm some jam, with a very little water. Turn the sponge very carefully on a paper sprinkled with sugar; cut off the edges quickly with a sharp knife if they are at all hard. Spread quickly with the jam, and roll up at once. No time must be lost in spreading the jam, or the Cake will crack and not roll properly. Half a tea- spoon of baking powder may be added to the flour. SHREWSBURY CAKES Flour, Yz lb. Ground Ginger, ^ tea- Butter, 4 oz. spoon Sugar, 4 oz. Egg, i Rub the butter in the sifted flour ; add fine white sugar, the ground ginger, or powdered cinnamon. Mix as dry as possible, using only as much ^g% as necessary. Tidy with the hand, flour the board lightly, and the rolling pin; beat and roll out the paste thin. Cut into rounds, put on greased tins, and bake a light brown. Turn on a wire tray or sieve. OATMEAI. BISCUITS Flour, 5 oz. Brown Sugar, 3 oz. Oatmeal (medium), 4 oz. Egg, i Butter or Lard, 3 oz. Salt Rub the fat into the sifted flour; add all the dry ingredients and a pinch of salt. Mix to a dry paste with the ^^^. Roll out thin on a lightly floured 180 CAKES board ; cut in rounds, and bake on a greased tin in a moderate oven till the biscuits are a light brown. Cool on a wire tray or sieve. TO ICE CAKES The best icing sugar should be used. Pound it with a pestle in a mortar, and sift through a hair sieve. A spatula or flat knife with a flexible blade is the best for spreading Royal Icing, dipping it in water constantly. Ornamental icing is done with a forcing bag, screw and pipe, and can be flavoured and coloured to taste. Cakes may be decorated with glace fruits, especially Cherries, Angelica, crystalised Violets, Rose leaves, Lilac, Pistache nuts (blanched and chopped). Almonds (blanched and browned), Walnuts. These are arranged on the icing before it sets. ROYAL ICING White of I Egg Lemon Juice Icing Sugar, 3^ lb. Beat the white of egg in a basin till stiff ; fold the sifted sugar in gradually with a spoon, keeping it very light, and adding a few drops of lemon juice. The exact quantity of sugar cannot be given, de- pending on the size of the egg, but the above is an average. Lemon juice keeps the icing a good white. When the icing is of the right consistency, place some in the centre of the Cake, and spread it over with the wet palette knife. Let this set in a warm place. Decorate later with fancy icing or fruits. Icing left over should be covered with wet tissue 181 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY paper, and must be worked up with a few drops of lemon juice before using again. Orange Icing. — Orange juice, and a few drops of yellow and carmine added to Royal Icing. Raspberry Icing. — Add carmine and a few drops of raspberry essence. CHOCOI.ATE Icing. — Add half an ounce of good cocoa and some vanilla essence to the Royal Icing. FONDANT ICING Icing Sugar, 5^ lb. Water, i tablespoon Put the water and sifted sugar in a small bright pan. Stir with a small wooden spoon over gentle heat (use an asbestos mat) till the fondant is the consistency of thick cream. Pour the icing over the Cake at once. Orange, Lemon, Raspberry, Coffee (essence). Chocolate Icing in the same way, putting in the flavourings and colour to taste. Or the icing may be flavoured with liqueur. FRENCH ICING Icing Sugar, % lb. Fruit Juice Sift the sugar into a basin, mix with a little fruit juice (orange, lemon, currants, etc.), and work very well with a wooden spoon till creamy. Spread the icing on a Sponge or other Cake, and sprinkle with chopped burnt almonds. VIENNA ICING Fresh Butter, 2 oz. Essence of Coffee Icing Sugar, 4 oz. 182 CAKES Beat the butter to a cream, and beat in the sifted sugar. Add drop by drop as much essence of coffee as is required. Spread the icing on a Mocha Cake, and decorate with lilac and small leaves of angelica. The Cake may be cut through, and spread with a layer of the Icing SANDWICHES FOR AFTERNOON TEA Sandwiches for afternoon tea may be varied in- definitely according to taste and available material. Bread may be white or brown; cut in fingers, rounds, crescents, triangles. Or small finger rolls may be used. Whipped or clotted cream may take the place of butter. Savoury Sandwiches may be filled with potted Strasburg Meat, Game, Foie Gras, Salmon or Lobster Paste. Or hard boiled yolk of egg pounded wdth butter and seasoned. Or tomato or cucumber, cut in slices and seasoned. Or mustard and cress. Sweet Sandwiches maj^ have a filling of Jam, Honey, Chocolate (grated and mixed with cream, and flavoured), Chopped nuts, etc. 183 THE LARDER AND SCRAPS A GOOD housekeeper will aim at havin'^ fresh food daily, and will so order meals that there will be little left from day to day. A regular inspection of the larder will be found of great help in drawing up the day's menus. The planning and arranging for the using up of scraps is a real satisfaction. Nothing that has a food value should be thrown away. No scraps are too small to be of use, but they should be eaten while fresh and sweet. Egg. A boiled tgg left over can be warmed up without hardening; or it may be hard boiled and made into a savoury ; or put into sauce, or used as a garnish for salad, etc. A broken egg, or part of one. Cover this with wet tissue paper to prevent drying, and it may be kept a day. It can be put into soup, sauce, or used for brushing over. Several recipes are given for using up cold meat, game, fish and vegetables. Scraps of any of these may be made into savoury toasts, etc. (see Sav- ouries), using judgment as to mixing and seasoning. White or brown sauce, even a teaspoonful is of value. With a small quantity of fish it suggests scollops, fish balls, savouries. A spoonful of cooked Spinach will make Spinach Soup or a savoury toast. 184 THE LARDER AND SCRAPS Potatoes and other vegetables, if not overcooked in the first instance, are delicious fried up, or warmed with a little butter (mixed or otherwise). The end of a rice or other milk pudding will go to the making of small Creams (see Creams). Stewed fruit will make a Fool or Cream with the addition of a small quantity of cream. Stale cake or biscuits suggest a Cabinet Pudding, or a sweet dish arranged with custard and jam. Stale bread will make white crumbs, golden crumbs, toast, crisps, fried bread ; and can be used in sweet and savoury puddings. COLD MEAT Cold meat should be daintily served. A joint must be tidied and the dry outside cut ofE before sending to table. Any salad stuff can be used for a garnish ; or parsley, cold vegetables, or pickles. When a joint looks mean the meat should be neatly cut off and arranged on a dish. A sharp knife is necessary for good carving. Any cold meat will make a Meat Salad. Cold chicken will make a Chicken Salad, or Mayonnaise. Made Dishes. Meat, poultry, fish, vegetables already cooked must not be recooked. They may be warmed, requiring a good gravy, sauce, milk or butter, in order to keep up a food value. Cooked meat will not make a gravy. These are important facts and should be remembered. Meat cut up by hand has more flavour than when put through a mincing machine, and is easier to digest. All skin 185 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY and gristle should be carefully cut off in made up meat dishes. MEAT vSALAD (see Salads) CHICKEN vSALAD (see Salads) RUSSIAN FII.LETS Cut rounds of cold juicy beef, about Yz inch thick. Brush these over with glaze, and arrange down the centre of a dish, with a Russian Salad of any cooked vegetables round (see Russian Salad). Rounds of veal or mutton may be served in the same way. RUSSIAN CUTLETS Take cold neck of lamb or mutton; divide and trim the cutlets, a bone to each. Brush over with glaze, wrap silver paper round the end of each bone, and arrange down the centre of a dish with a cold vegetable salad round. (See Russian Salad.) GRILLED BONES Take a shoulder of mutton, or other bone, with some meat left on it. Score it with a sharp knife-, brush over with salad oil, or melted butter. Grill sharply, season highly; place on a hot dish with a little piece of butter, and serve at once. Chicken or turkey legs may be grilled or devilled. DEVILLED BONES Mix cayenne, black pepper and salt for season- ing. Cook as Grilled Bones. Serve with a Devil i86 THE LARDER AND SCRAPS Sauce (see Sauces). Or the grilled bones may be simmered for 15 minutes in the sauce. POTATO PIE Cut up cold meat in dice, put in a pie, or fireproof or souffle dish, season well. Pour over a good and well-flavoured gravy. A small quantity of cold peas, French beans or carrots may be added if con- venient.- Cover the dish with mashed potato, rake the top with a fork, and dot with small pieces of dripping. Or cut cold potatoes in slices, cover the dish, and put pieces of dripping on top. Stand the dish at the back of the stove for about an hour to soak and slightly warm; or on a mat over very little gas. Brown the potatoes sharply under the grill, before the fire, or in a very hot oven. STUFFED MARROW Cut fine any scraps of meat or bird, ham or tongue, and season well. Peel a green marrow, cut it in halves lengthwise, take out the seeds; fill it with the mince and tie up with a broad tape. Cook in a steamer; or in a small quantity of stock in a stewpan ; or in the oven. Dish the marrow as soon as a skewer will go in. If overcooked it will be soft and watery. Drain for a couple of minutes, dish, take off the tape, and cover the marrow with a good White Sauce. Or brush the marrow over with glaze and pour a little gravy round. MUTTON HASH Cut cold mutton in neat slices, remove the skin 187 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY and gristle, and put between two plates on the rack to warm. Cut some onions (according to size) in rings. Heat a little dripping in a small casserole and fry the onions brown. Add seasoned flour to the onions (one tablespoon flour, one teaspoon salt, ^ teaspoon pepper), stir with a knife till the flour is brown and the fat absorbed (there must not be enough fat to make the hash greasy). Add a tea- spoon each of Worcester, Ketchup, Tomato and Anchovy Sauces, and a small quantity of good stock. Boil for some minutes to cook the flour. Lift the pan off the fire, lay in the meat, and cover it. Stand the pan for an hour or less at the back of the stove ; or on an asbestos mat with very little gas under. A teaspoon of red or black currant, or blackberry jelly, or port wine, greatly improves the gravy, which should be a dark brown in colour. The stock can be made from the bones of the joint, adding some Lemco or other extract, or glaze. The hash may be served in the casserole; or the slices neatly arranged on a dish and the gravy poured round. Baked tomatoes as a vegetable. BEEF MINCE Cut beef, or other meat, in dice, remove all skin and gristle. Cook as Mutton Hash (see recipe), but mince the onions. If the quantity of meat is scanty, fry triangles of bread and serve round the dish. Or fry squares or rounds of bread, about yi inch thick, and put the mince on. A mince should have very little loose gravy ; if there should be too much, let the pan stand on the stove without a lid. i88 THE LARDER AND SCRAPS DUCHESS CUTLETS Divide cutlets from cold neck of lamb or mutton, a bone to each. Trim; with a knife cover with cold Onion or other White Sauce; Qgg, breadcrumb, and fry in deep fat to a golden brown. Dish the cut- lets, wrap silver paper round the end of each bone, and put peas or French beans round. RISSOLES Take cold beef or mutton, cut up fine, season well, and put in a basin. Make a Panada (see Sauces) and stir to the meat. Let this get cold. Divide the mixture into halves, and quarters, and take an equal number of pieces out of each, so the Rissoles are of even size. Make into balls, using a little flour on the outside only. Brush over with eggf and roll in white crumbs. Fry a few at a time in smoking fat, suf&ciently deep to cover the Rissoles. Drain on soft paper. Serve the Rissoles piled up on a dish paper, and garnish with fresh or fried parsley. They should be golden brown. Durham Cutlets. — Make a Rissole mix- ture, adding a small quantity of French beans, carrots, or other cooked vegetables. Put this to cool on a large plate. To shape the cutlets, cut across in halves and quarters, and again into as many pieces as cutlets required ; they will need very little shaping. This is done on a floured board, using a knife. Egg, breadcrumb, and fry as Ris- soles. Dish the cutlets leaning on each other down the centre of the dish. Garnish with peas or parsley. 189 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY Croquettes.-— Take cold veal and ham, rab- bit and pork, chicken and bacon, or game. The mixture is made as Rissoles, using milk or white stock in the Panada. Roll the balls out on a floured board, altering the shape to small rolls. Arrange the Croquettes down the centre of the dish. Gar- nish with French beans. French Croquettes. — Roll out some pastry very thin, cut squares or rounds, and wet the edges. Put in the centre of each small pieces ot Rissole or Croquette mixture. Fold over and press the edges together; brush with egg, roll in crushed vermicelli, and fry as Rissoles. Potato Rissoi^ES. — Take mashed potato, roll it out lightly on a floured board. Cut rounds, put in the centre of each a small quantity of finely minced and well seasoned meat. Work the potato over, making into the shape of an egg; rub in flour, brush over with egg, breadcrumb, and fry in deep fat. Garnish with parsley. > I ORBEN TOMATO JAM f Green Tomatoes Loaf or Crystal Sugar , Lemons | Take equal quantities of green tomatoes and sugar. Take the finely cut rind (no white) and the 206 JAMS AND JELLIES juice of a large lemon to each 3 or 4 lbs. of fruit. Wipe the tomatoes, cut in quarters, and remove the small hard pieces. Put in a preserving pan with the lemon juice and rind. When this has boiled for about 10 minutes, slip in the warm sugar and boil quicklj'- till the jam will set. Small almonds blanched, dried and split, may be stirred in when the jam is nearly ready. MARROW JAM Green Marrow Sugar Lemons Choose a dark green and unripe marrow. Peel, cut into pieces of about an inch, and weigh. To each 3 lbs. of fruit add the juice and very finely cut rind of a lemon. To each lb. of fruit add i lb. of loaf sugar. Put all in a large basin and let it stand all night. Next day take out the fruit, put the syrup in a pan and boil hard for about half an hour, taking oiT all scum. Add the marrow and boil till the jam looks quite clear. APPLE JELLY Apples Sugar Cloves or Cinnamon Water Windfalls do M^ell for making jelly. Wipe the fruit, divide in quarters, cut out the core and any bruises, but do not peel. Put the apples in a pre- serving pan, just cover with water; add a piece of cinnamon, or a few cloves. Simmer slowly till the apples are all quite soft. vScald a jelly bag, tie it to the backs of two chairs (in a warm place) or to 207 THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY the rail of the gas cooker and a chair; put a basin underneath. Put the apple pulp slowly into the bag with a small cup, and let it stand till no more juice runs out. Measure the juice. To each pint allow I lb. of sugar, and put into a clean bright pan. Boil quickly, carefully taking off all scum. When the jelly turns red and boils quietly, try a little on a plate (see directions). When it jellies, take the pan off the fire and put the jelly into small glass jars, filling up to the top. (See Apple Cheese.) APPLE CHEESE Take the pulp left in the jelly bag (see Apple Jelly) ; rub it lightly through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon, scraping the sieve occasionally to remove the skins. Weigh, to each lb. of pulp take % lb. of sugar. Add the grated rind and juice of a lemon to ever3^ 3 or 4 lbs. Put all in a pan and boil quickly, stirring all the time, till a little cooled on a plate will set. As the fruit is ready cooked, the cheese is quickly made. Put it in straight pots or moulds. The Apple Cheese can be turned out when wanted. GOOSEBERRY JELLY Cut off the tops and stalks of green gooseberries, and wipe the fruit with a cloth. Make as Apple Jelly, but leave out the spice. The jelly will be a bright red. (See Gooseberrj^ Cheese.) GOOSEBERRY CHEESE Make as Apple Cheese with the fruit pulp left 208 JAMS AND JELLIES over from the jelly; flavour with lemon. The cheese will be a bright green when ready, and should be put in small moulds or cups. (See Goose- berry Jelly.) MARMALADE Large Seville Oranges 12 Loaf or Crystal Sugar, Water, 12 pints 12 lbs. Wipe the fruit clean and cut in halves, across the core. Rub the oranges on a glass squeezer and remove all the pips. Cut the peel (on a clean chop- ping board) in thin slices; or cut roughly, as preferred. Put the peel in large basins, cover with the measured water and soak all night. Take a pint of the measured water^ cover all uncut pips and let that also stand. Early next morning put the peel and water, the juice and strained water from the pips in a pan, and simmer very gently till the peel is soft; this may take three or four hours, according to the quantity and heat. Slip in the warmed sugar and boil very quickly, stirring all the time, and removing all scum. When the marmalade looks clear and bright, try a little on a plate; it is ready when it jellies. This recipe is, to each orange i pint water and I lb. sugar, but the oranges must be large, other- wise count 3 oranges as 2. 209 INDEX »» ft »» $> »y it tt Apples, Fritters Dumplings Pie . . Pudding Cheese Jelly . Sauce Stewed A.ngels Food „ on Horseback Angelica . . . Anchovy Sauce . „ Butter ,, Fingers Artichokes, Green „ Jerusalem ,, Soup Asbestos Mat Asparagus Baking . . „ Powder Basting . . Bacon, Boiled ,, Fried . Barley Water Batter for frying ,, Pancake „ Pudding Baked ,, Pudding,Steamed Beetroot Beef . . „ Boiled Roast Fillets Mince t) If ft 134 159 -59 159 208 207 no 143 145 118 138 108 120 119 97 91 42 14 97 28 30 29 68 123 203 53 133 132 133 go 62 67 64 72 188 Beans, Broad ,, French . ,, Butter ,, Haricot . ,, and Ham Beignets Souffles Biscuits to keep „ Oatmeal „ Shrewsbury ,, Savoury Black Game . . . Blackberry, Cream ,, Salad Black Currants, Stewed Blancmange Bloaters Boiling . . Bone to Braising Bread to make ,, Vienna ,, Sauce „ Fried „ Crisps ,, Crumbs Breakfast Rolls Broiling . , Creams Brown Sauce Brown Bread Butter „ Melted . . . „ Maitre d'Hotel Cabbage, to Boil . „ Soup . . Cakes, to make 96 95 99 99 95 136 199 180 180 120 84 139 145 144 130 60 31 61 33 164 166 no 196 197 197 167 30 109 139 16 107 107 92 43 170 211 INDEX Cakes to Ice . . . . 181 Coralline Pepper . . Calves, Sweetbread • 75 Cold Fruit Pudding . „ Liver . . • 73 Coffee, to make . . Caper Sauce . ^ . . 108 Coffee Cake . . 177 Caramel .... 39 Corn, Green . . . . Carrots, Old . . . . 88 Crecy Soup . . . . „ New . . . . 89 Cream, to Whip . . „ Soup . . 42 Creams Carmine .... > 131 „ Horns . . . Carraway Seeds . 174 Croquettes . . . . Casseroles .... . 21 „ French . . Castle Puddings . 178 Custard Cauliflower, Boiled • 93 „ Baked . . . ,, French ■ 93 „ Coconut . . . ,, Au Gratit] I 93 Curry Meat . . . . Celery, Boiled . . 96 Currants, to clean . . „ Sauce . . . . 108 „ Jam . . . Charlotte Russe . 140 Cutlets, Egg . . . . Chestnut Soup . . 44 ,, Durham . . ,, Forcemeat 112 „ Lamb . . . Cheese Pudding 116 „ Lobster . . ,, Aigrettes 116 „ Mutton . . Cheese Omelette 126 „ Veal . . . „ Straws . . 117 „ Duchess . . Cherry Mould . . 131 ,, Russian . . Chicken to choose . • 17 ,, Boiled . . 79 D.\TE Pudding . . . „ Broth . . 46 Devil a „ Braised . . 78 „ Sauce . . . . ,, Roast . . 78 Devilled Bones . . . „ Salad . . . 104 ,, Roes . . . „ Croquettes 190 „ Whitebait Chops 76 ,, Biscuits . . Chocolate Cakes . 177 ,179 Dried Meat . . . . „ Mould . . 131 „ Fish . . . . Icing . . 182 „ Vegetables . . „ Sauce . . . 114 Dripping Claret Jelly . . . 142 ,, to Cream Cod, Boiled . . . 54 ,, to Clarify „ Grilled . . . 59 Duck, Roast . . . . Coconut Cakes . 174 , 177 „ Wild . . . . Cocoa ..... 201 Dutch, Sauce . . . . Colander .... 92 Dumplings, Apple . . Consomme . . . 40 Colcannon .... • 194 Eggs^ to Choose . . 16 212 INDEX Eggs to Whip . . . • 173 Fruit, Stewed • . 142 „ to Cook . . , 122 ,, Puddings • 144 „ Sauce . . . . 108 „ Pies .... 159 Egg and Breadcrumb • 52 „ Cakes . . . 173 Earthenware dishes . 21 ,, Tinned . . . • 199 Earthenware Pans . 21 „ Tarts . . . . 161 Essences, Flavouring . 26 „ Salads . . 105 > 144 Fritters • 134 Fat, for Frying . . . 35 „ Fruit . . • 134 ,, Temperature of • 35 „ German • 134 „ to Cream . . . 147 ,, Meat . . . . 192 „ to Render . . . 37 Fry, to . 36 „ to Strain . . . 35 „ Basket . . . 36 „ to Clarify . . . 37 „ Spoon . . . 36 Fowl, to Choose • 77 „ Pan . . . • 36 „ „ Boil . . . 79 Frying, Dry . . . • 37 ,, ,, Roast . 78 „ French • 34 „ „ Braise . 78 „ Fat . . . • 35 Fold in, to . . 138 , 173 „ Batter . • 53 Fondant, Icing . . 182 Forcemeat .... . 112 Game 77 „ Chestnut . 112 „ Black . . . 84 Fillets, Beef . . . . 72 Garnish for Fish 53 „ Russian 186 „ „ Creams 138 Fish, to Choose . . i 6,49 ,, ,, Salads lOI „ „ Skin . . . 49 Gill ^4 Pint Measure . „ „ Bone . . . 49 Gingerbread . . . . 175 ,» „ Boil . . . 50 Gooseberry Fool . . . 141 „ ,, Steam . . . 51 „ Cheese . . 208 „ „ Bake . . . 51 Pie . . . 159 „ „ Fry ... . 51 Jelly . . 208 „ „ Grill . . , 59 Greens 92 „ „ Egg & Bread- Green Vegetables . . 91 crumb . . 52 ,, Artichokes . . 97 „ Balls 192 „ Corn . . . . 97 „ Cakes . . . . 193 „ Peas 95 „ vScolloped . . . 193 Gravies . . III French Beans . . . 95 Glaze . . . III „ Cauliflower 93 Grill, to . . 30 „ Croquettes 190 Grilled bones 186 Pie ... . 154 Grouse . . . 83 Fruit, to Choose . . 17 Guinea Fowl . So „ Dry, to Clean . 170 „ Creams . . . 138 Ham 32 „ Fools . . . . 141 „ with Beans . . . 95 21 '^ INDEX Ham, Toast . Haddock, Fresh ,, Dried Halibut . . . Hare, Roast . Hare, Stewed . Haricots . . „ Soup Herrings, Fried „ Grilled Soused Icing, Royal . „ Fondant „ French ,, Vienna Irish Stew . . Italian Soups . it Jams Jam Sandwich Sauce . . . Tart . . . „ Tartlets . . Jellies, Fruit . . Jelly, Claret . . „ Lemon . . Jerusalem Artichokes Junket .... Julienne Soup . . Kedgeree . • . Kidneys, Grilled ,, Stewed Kippers . . . . Lamb .... ,, Boiled . „ Braised . „ Cutlets . „ Roast ,, Sweetbreads IvCmonade . . Ivcmon Cake . „ Jelly . 119 54 60 54 82 83 99 45 56 60 58 181 182 182 182 71 41 204 179 113 161 162 207 142 141 91 128 41 193 76 70 60 62 66 72 73 65 74 202 179 141 21 Lemon Sponge . „ Syrup . Lemco .... Liver, Fried . . ,, Stewed Lobster Cutlets . au (Tratin Salad Soup ft Mackerel, Fried „ Grilled ,, Soused Maccaroni Cheese „ au Gratin ,, Pudding Madeira Cake . . Marmalade . . . ,, Pudding Marrow ,, vSoup . . . „ Stuffed . . „ Jam . . . Marmite . . . . : Maitre d 'Hotel Butter Mayonnaise Dressing ,, Salmon ,, Sauce Medici Biscuits Meat, to Choose ,, Fritters ,, Patties ,, Pasty „ Pies . ,, Salad Melted Butter Milk . . . „ Puddings Mincemeat . ,, beef . Mint Sauce . Minnestrone Soup Mock Turtle Soup Mould Cherry Chocolate 142 202 39 I 73' 70 57 , 57^1 103 ■ I 48 i 56' 59^ 58^ 115' 115. 129 ♦ 176! 209 15S 96 43 187 206 I, 39 107 102 104 no 120 6, 61 192 153 154 151 104 107 201 129 113 188 no 45 46 131 131 INDEX Mulligatawny Soup Mushrooms . . ,, with Bacon Mutton . . . ,, Roast . „ Boiled „ Broth . „ Cutlets ,, Chops . „ Stewed Hash . Nut Sandwiches Oatmeal Porridge ,, Biscuits Onion, Baked . „ Boiled . ,, Sauce . ,, Soup . ,, Stewed Omelette Savoury ,, Sweet „ Souffle Orange Cake . . 177 Icing „ Salad ,, and Rhubarb Oxtail, Stewed „ Soup . Oyster Sauce . „ Soup . „ Patties Palette Knife Panada . . . Paisley Flour . Parsley, to Chop „ to Fry „ Butter ,, Sauce Parsnips . . Pastry . . . Short . Flaky . » 47 Pastry Puff . 97 „ Suet 98 ,, Fingers 62 Pasty Meat 65 Patties, Meat 66 Patna Rice 46 Pearl Barley 73 Peas, Green 76 „ Dried 70 „ Soup 187 ,, and Bacon Pheasant, Roast . 183 ,, Boiled ,, Braised 203 Pigeon, Roast 180 Pies, Meat . . 90 ,, Fruit 89 Pistache Kernels 108 Piquante Sauce 42 Plaice . . . 90 Plum Jam . . 126 ,, Pudding 137 Poached Eggs . 136 Porridge . . 179 Pork, to Choose 182 „ Roast 104 „ Boiled . 143 „ Chops . 68 Potatoes, Old 68 „ New 108 ,, Steamed 47 ,, Snow 155 „ Soup „ Mashed 181 „ Mould 109 ,, Baked 164 ,, au Gratin 120 ,, Fried . 98 ,, Buttered 120 Potato Balls . 107 ,, Pie . . 90 ,, Rissoles 147 ,, Salad . 149 ,, Soup . 149 Puddings, Batter 15I: 44 150 156 163 153 153 191 46 95 99 , 45 95 83 83 83 80 152 159 181 109 55 206 163 122 203 63 66 81 76 86 88 S6 86 42 86 87 87 195 194 194 S7 187 190 103 41 132 215 INDEX ^ Puddings, Castle Cheese Fruit . Meat . Milk . Plum Suet . 178 116 159 157 129 163 158 Sandwiches, Savoury 121, 183 Rabbit, Boiled . . . 81 „ to Cut up . . 81 „ Pie ... 153 „ Pudding . . 157 Ragout . . 81 Raisin Pudding . . 158 Raspberry Cream . 138 Jam . . 205 ,, Salad 145 Rennet 128 Rhubarb Fool . . 141 „ to Stew . 143 „ Jam . . . . 206 Rice, to Boil . . . 191 ,, Pudding . ^. 129 „ Savoury . . 116 Rissoles . 189 Rock Buns .... 174 Roast, to .... 28 „ Meat . . . 64 ,, Birds . . . 78 Roly Poly .... 158 Root Vegetables 85 Royal Soup . . . 41 „ Icing . . . 181 Russian Cutlets . . 186 Fillets . . 186 ,, Salad . . 103 Sabayon Sauce Salads . . . „ Chicken „ Dressing „ Fruit . ,, Meat Salt Meat . . . . 114 . . 100 . . 104 loi, 102 104, 144 . . 104 . . 32 2 183 ; 120 53 ^ 104 5 106 ': 113 \ 64 :' 154 118 120 59 193 125 168 151 96 108 48 180 60 83 „ Sweet Sardine Fingers . 119 Salmon, Boiled ,, Mayonnaise Sauces, Savoury ,, Sweet vSausages, Fried „ Rolls Savouries Hot . 115 Cold Scallops . . . Scolloped fish . Scotch Eggs . Scones . . . Seasoned Plour Sea Kale . . Shrimp Sauce ,, Soup Shrewsbury Cakes Smoked Fillets Snipe . . . Sole, to cook in the oven .... 54 „ Fry 55 „ Fillets ... 54, 55 „ au Gratin ... 58 Soups . . . . 39 to 48 ,, Clear .... 40 SouiSe Lemon . . . 135 „ Omelette . . . 136 ,, Vanilla . . . 136 Spatula 21 Spaghetti 46 Spinach 94 ,, Croutes ... 94 Soup ... 43 Sprats 57 Sprouts 93 Sponge Cakes . . . 178 Strawberry Cream . . 138 „ Jam . . 205 Steam, to 33 Steamer 33 16 INDEX vStewing . . Stock, to Make „ a good Stew, Irish Steak, Grilled „ Stewed Pie ,, Pudding Stewed Fruit . Suet Paste . . „ Pudding Sweetbreads, Calves' ,, Lamb Swiss Roll . . . Syrup, a . . . Tapioca Pudding Tartare Sauce . Tarts, Fruit . Tea .... Toast . . . Tomato . . . „ au Gratin „ Jam . ,, Soup . „ Toast . Tinned Food . Treacle, to weigh „ Tart . ,, Pudding Turkey, Roast ,, Boiled Turnips . . . Turnovers . . O^} 34 39 40 71 75 69 151 157 143 156 158 75 74 179 143 129 III 161 200 196 98 98 206 43 119 198 173 160 158 79 80 89 162 Utensils (Kitchen) . . 19 Veal . . . Roast . Boiled Stewed Braised Cutlets Pie Velvet Cream ,, Soup Vegetables, Green Root to Boil Entrees Mould Soups Vermicelli Soup . ,, Pudding Victoria Sandwich Vienna Bread . . „ Icing . . Vol au Vent . . Walnut Cakes . Washing up . . Water .... Whitebait . . . White Sauce . . Wild Duck . . . Woodcock . . Yeast, German 63 65 67 70 71 74 152 140 45 17, 91 17, 85 • 91 • 195 • 195 . 195 . 46 . 129 . 178 . 166 . 182 • 155 177 22 20c 107 84 83 . 164 217 HTHF RED HORIZON By PATRICK MACGILL, Author of " Children of the Dead End," " The Rat-Pit," and " The Amateur Army." Crown 8vo. 5s. net. Inland Postage 5d. extra. When "Children of the Dead End" appeared, Mr. MacGill was proclaimed a Great Realist. In his new book he deals with the Great War as it affects the rank and file. 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S.W. |lj]<|jPU>Ull!iilttiWmilil!ini!l|!tSi1IH!l!IHtt]4)in!!)!intUM^ ''QVV :^ . iifflRifflwiw»ianiiffiHroiiiimmiMii!iiiiiii bl! ill! ilMiiim I:' • ! i ^^ i' If I iii iil! jli: ?. ntin8«fliW)itHiniH»Ht!iniin!>hi