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 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 
 
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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
 I 
 
The Chilkuui Pass. 
 
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 IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF 
 A WINTER'S JOURNEY TO DAWSON 
 
 FREDERICK PALMER 
 
 ILLUSTRATED 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNERS SONS 
 NEW YORK 1899 
 
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 0659 
 
 CoPVRrCHT, 1899, BY 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
 
 TWO COPlfco ..aceiVED. 
 
 APR 8 -1899 
 
 ■4 
 
 mow DIRECTORY 
 
 MINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 
 X 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 I THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 Choosing Comrades— Jack Beltz and his Dogs— Fritz Gamble— From 
 Sheep Camp to the Summit— Packing over the Chilkoot Pass— 
 The Halt at Lake Linderman— A Night in a Sleeping Bag— Coast- 
 ing down the Frozen Yukon— Half Way to Dawson . . Page i 
 
 II. ON THE TRAIL 
 
 Personalities— The Forebears of Jack and Fritz— Good Camp Manners 
 —Dog Individuality— Dude— The Team of Huskies— Wayfarers 
 at Five Fingers— Fort Selkirk and Pelly— The Thanksgiving 
 Turkey that Did Not Get to Dawson— A Diet of Flapjacks— Sub- 
 urbs of the Klondyke Capital— The Passing of the Trail . Page 36 
 
 III. DAWSON 
 
 Social Aspects of Dawson— Cornering the Tinned Food Market— 
 Cheechawkos and Old-Timers in the Early Days . . Page 61 
 
 IV. THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 The Beginning of Mining in Alaska— Forty Mile Creek— Canadian 
 and American Deposits— The Largest Log-Cabin Town in the 
 World— Life of the First Adventurers— The Superfluity of Six- 
 Shooters— Leaving the Latch-Strings Out— The Way of the 
 Transgressors— Indian Charley and his Nugget . . . Page 66 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 V. MINERS AND MINING 
 
 Reaping the Gold Harvest— Thawing and Sluicing — Miners and their 
 Theories— The Dome— Expensive Timber — Empty Pockets but 
 Dollars in the Dumps— The First Millionnaires— Color in the Pan 
 — Once a Prospector Always a Prospector — Figuring Fortunes 
 —Capitalists in Demand — The Forty Happy Kings on Eldo- 
 rado Page <§5 
 
 VI. SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 1 he Fool and his Lucky Friends — More Theorizers — Joe Staley and 
 Billy Deddering — French Gulch Bench — Good Fortune that 
 was Deserved — Neighbors and Twins — No Cure for the Gold 
 Fever Page 1 1 1 
 
 VII. GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. " Meenach " and their Menage— The Juvenile Mining 
 Company, Limited— Voss— The Arch-Deacon — A Sour-Dough 
 Stiff— A Dalmatian and a Turk— Siawash George and his Steam- 
 Engine— Miss Mulrooney at The Forks — The Price of a " Square " 
 with Trimmings Page 126 
 
 VIII. ARCTIC TRAITS 
 
 Daily Life in Dawson — Renting a Cabin — Circumventing the Huskies 
 — Joey Boureau and his Restaurant — The Faro Dealer's Wife and 
 her Bakery — The Laundry man and his Claim — Jack Beltz's 
 Schemes — A Pair of Dreamers Page 1$^ 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 IX. PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 Itineraries— Alleged Unimportance of Experience— The Case of Father 
 Stanley— Press Agents and Primers of Wealth— The Secretary of 
 the Seattle Chamber of Commerce his own Convert— Pardners 
 and Promoters — Outfits— Home Comforts for an Arctic Climate 
 — Heterogeneous Boat Loads — The Nancy G — Tragedies of the 
 Passes Page 163 
 
 X. PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 Newspapers as Profit-Winners— Hearing about Dewey— A Drop in 
 Eggs— Market Items — Lemons against Scurvy — The Mercury at 
 110 Degrees— An Averted Moving Day— Industrious Scavengers 
 —The Klondyke Itself— Aspects of Summer— Bandanna Hats and 
 Pink Lemonade— A Restaurant Trust— The Grasshoppers and 
 the Ants — Disillusions Page 181 
 
 XI. GOVERNMENT 
 
 The Canadian Policy in the Yukon Province— Taxes and Fees— The 
 Gold Commissioner's Office— Conflicts between Territorial and 
 Dominion Governments — Timber Grants — The Value of the 
 Mounted Police— The Newly Rich at Dawson— The Order of 
 the Yukon Pioneers — Mrs. Constantine Page 200 
 
 XII. DOWN THE YUKON AND HOME 
 
 Good-By to Dawson — The Extinction of the Unfit — Steamboating to 
 St. Michaels— Mosquitoes and Sandbars— Pilgrims by the All- 
 Water Route— Behring Sea— Civilization Once More . Page 212 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 The Chilkoot Pass Frontispiece 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 "Packing" Timber 8 
 
 Pilgrims Resting on the Chilkoot 8 
 
 A Halt 14 
 
 Guiding the Team 18 
 
 Borrowing a Hint from Ice-Boats — Just Above White Horse 
 
 Rapids 22 
 
 Over the Bench Ice of Thirty Mile River . . . .26 
 
 Crossing a Brook 32 
 
 In Camp— The Dogs' Porridge 40 
 
 The First Boats 54 
 
 A Typical Pilgrims' Boat 66 
 
 Yukon Indians 78 
 
 On the Creeks 88 
 
 A Flume on Bonanza Creek 102 
 
 Cleaning Up 108 
 
 Shovelling a Clean-Up into a Gold Pan 108 
 
 The Discoverers of French Gulch Bench at Work . . .124 
 
 ix 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 Pardners and Twins for Forty Years 124 
 
 Miss Mulrooney of The Forks 142 
 
 Jack Beltz 156 
 
 "The Huskies" 156 
 
 On the Pass . .164 
 
 Caches of Pilgrims' Outfits at the Summit . . . .172 
 Bargaining for a Newly Arrived Boat-Load, Dawson . . l82 
 
 In the Camps of the Cheechawkos 188 
 
 A Yukon Steamer 198 
 
 The Main Street of Dawson 208 
 
 A Dawson Good-By 214 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 , Choosing Comrades — Jack Beltz and his Dogs — Fritz Gamble 
 — From Sheep Camp to the Summit — Packing over the 
 Chilkoot Pass — The Halt at Lake Linderman — A Night 
 in a Sleeping Bag — Coasting down the Frozen Yukon — 
 Half Way to Dawson. 
 
 ORIGINALLY, I had intended to accom- 
 pany our Government expedition for the 
 relief of the miners of the Klondyke, which 
 was in part mobilized at Dyea when I arrived 
 there late in February. As it never went any 
 farther, for the good reason that Dawson had 
 been rescued from famine by the migration of 
 a portion of its population, I was left to my 
 own resources. Wholesome fatigue and clean 
 camps on the snow were better than the hos- 
 pitality of a mushroom town built of rough 
 boards and tar-paper ; a little adventure was 
 better than watching for two months the thou- 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 sands of pilgrims of fortune in the desperate 
 and monotonous labor of putting their outfits 
 over the passes ; and I determined, rather than 
 to wait with them for the opening of naviga- 
 tion, to undertake with dogs and sleds of my 
 own the untried journey of six hundred miles 
 over the ice-fields of the Lewes lakes and the 
 ice-packs of the Yukon River which the Gov- 
 ernment expedition had contemplated. 
 
 Whoever was to go with me must be com- 
 panionable, industrious, and loyal, lest in pitch- 
 ing a tent in a storm, when limbs ached from 
 the strain of the day's tramp, an unruly temper 
 might lead to the crisis of blows or separation. 
 In turn, I must work as hard as he ; for we 
 could not afford to carry food for a stomach 
 that nourished idle hands. 
 
 Precisely the right kind of comrade, equipped 
 with experience, I had hoped would be forth- 
 coming from among the men who had violated 
 the traditions of the early communities of gold- 
 seekers in regard to winter travel. Some mem- 
 bers of this hardy little army were almost daily 
 arriving in Dyea. But their dogs were worn 
 out, and they themselves were inclined to 
 laugh at my suggestion, more particularly at 
 my money. Having pointed out the greater 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 difficulties of ingress than of egress, they asked, 
 with a touch of sarcasm, if I thought that they 
 had made the journey out from Dawson for 
 the purpose of immediately retracing their steps. 
 
 Meanwhile, adventurous spirits but lately ar- 
 rived from Seattle or San Francisco came to 
 offer their services with all the self-confidence 
 characteristic of a floating population. The 
 references of some were belied by their de- 
 meanor, and the demeanor of others by their 
 references. All were further belied by their 
 dogs — Newfoundlands, setters, and what not — 
 which had received a few days' training for 
 market purposes in Seattle. In consequence, 
 I was almost despairing, when I was accosted 
 by a powerfully built, blond-haired, blue-eyed 
 fellow who impressed his personality upon me 
 at once. 
 
 '' I hear you're lookin' for a dog-puncher," 
 he said, awkwardly. '* My name's Jack Beltz. 
 I've been a cowboy, and done a good many 
 other things in the West, and now I'm up 
 against it with the crowd in Alaska. I think 
 I could do what you want" — and then with 
 sudden fervor, " but come around and look at 
 the dogs ! If the dogs are no good, you don't 
 want me, that's sure." 
 
 3 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 " Any further references ? " 
 
 "Well," after a moment's thought, ''there's 
 Bangs, up at the Miner's Rest. He knowed 
 me when I was on a ranch in Nebrasky. 
 Dunno what he'll say. You can ask him, 
 though. Anyhow, I'd be obliged if you'd see 
 the dogs 'fore you make a decision." 
 
 He waited outside the Miner's Rest while I 
 spoke with Bangs. 
 
 ''Jack Beltz!" exclaimed Bangs. "Well, 
 Jack Beltz's a fool when it comes to bosses 
 and dawgs. He thinks they can talk. But 
 Jack Beltz'll stick to a thing that's hard — he 
 don't like things that ain't — till he comes out 
 of it or goes down with it, and all the mules in 
 the army couldn't make him mad." 
 
 Then I followed Jack to a woodpile in the 
 outskirts of the town, where five fat and sleek 
 huskies awoke at his approach, and at his com- 
 mand lined up like so many soldiers, wagging 
 their bushy tails over their backs and watching 
 his every movement with their sharp eyes. 
 From their mothers, who were native Indian 
 dogs, they had inherited their affection for 
 man, however poor the specimen, and from 
 their fathers, who were full-blooded wolves of 
 the forest, their strength and endurance. 
 
 4 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 In an hour after I had met him I had en- 
 gaged Jack Beltz on the strength of the fat on 
 his dogs' ribs, of his blue eyes, and of Bangs's 
 candid recommendation. Placing my theoret- 
 ical knowledge of the needs of an arctic climate 
 against his experience as a frontiersman, we 
 quickly made out a list of the supplies which 
 were to be packed on our sleds, minimizing 
 everything in weight and bulk as far as we 
 dared, but being very careful to consider that 
 while we might go hungry the dogs must not. 
 In all, we took eleven hundred pounds, four 
 hundred of food and bedding for ourselves and 
 seven hundred of food for the dogs. 
 
 Chance made the choice of a third member 
 of the party, whose assistance was necessary, as 
 happy as the choice of its second. This big fel- 
 low, over six feet in height, was Frederick 
 Gamble, known to his friends as Fritz, who 
 had given up a career as an artist and had 
 already spent one unprofitable season with a 
 pick and a pack in the Cassiar district No 
 pilgrim accustomed to good living ever ac- 
 cepted a diet of bacon and beans with better 
 philosophy. 
 
 It was already the i8th of March. If, as the 
 old-timers said, the Yukon became impassable 
 
 5 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 by the 20th of April, we had little time to 
 spare. There was much in our surroundings 
 on the day of our departure to lend credence 
 to their opinion. The sun, at midday, which 
 turned the blue of the little glaciers over our 
 heads into a red, united with the wind blowing 
 from the ocean to thaw the snow on the moun- 
 tain sides. In the many places where the winter 
 trail had been worn down to the sand of the 
 flats which the Dyea River overflows in the 
 freshets of spring, the pilgrims had to turn off 
 to the still intact but spongy ice of the wind- 
 ing little stream of the autumn and winter to 
 find a better track for their sleds. 
 
 Canyon City, where the comparatively level 
 stretch of eight miles of the flats is at an end 
 and the real ascent of eight miles to the sum- 
 mit of the Pass begins, had grown into a little 
 village with three saloons since I had last 
 visited it, only two weeks before. Here the 
 river is a thundering cataract in spring, dashing 
 through a narrow gorge of rocks which rise to 
 a height of from twenty to a hundred feet. 
 The sled road of trodden snow with a basis of 
 ice had become so mushy that the men who 
 panted forward, dragging their sleds and asking 
 with their eyes, if not with their tongues, for 
 
 6 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 a hand to help them out of ruts, were wonder- 
 ing whether they would not be forced to take 
 to the summer trail running over the wall of 
 the canyon on the morrow. 
 
 Beyond the canyon was a community of 
 thousands of tents, Sheeps Camp, a halfway 
 station in the work of transportation from 
 Dyea to the Summit if not in the number of 
 miles. It had doubled if not trebled in popu- 
 lation since I had last seen it, which meant 
 that the bulk of the pilgrims had their outfits 
 this far on their journey. I slept here, the 
 guest of some friends who had an excellent 
 bed of fir boughs. Before I was up I knew 
 that the day on the Summit was fair by the 
 tramping of the packers and the howls of the 
 dogs in the main path, or street, of the '' town." 
 At this time, most of the days on the Summit 
 were fair, and it behooved the pilgrims to 
 make the most of them. In midwinter it 
 often happened that intense cold and a fierce 
 storm of fine snow, resembling a blizzard in 
 the Dakotas, made the Summit impassable. 
 
 The series of steep ascents leading from 
 Sheep Camp to the base of the final, long, 
 and much steeper ascent, called as a whole 
 by the pilgrims the Summit, was a struggling 
 
 7 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 line of men and dogs, drawing sleds, and of 
 horses with packs. Oaths and howls were so 
 numerous that no one oath or howl came to 
 the ear distinctly. You heard only noise, as 
 you hear an uproar of individual shouts at a 
 national convention. In the early days the 
 pioneers had given to the little plateau at the 
 base of the final ascent the name of the 
 Scales, because at this point they were wont 
 to balance their packs and readjust them for 
 the last grim effort. Beyond this neither 
 horse nor mule could carry nor dog could 
 draw a load. The more supple animal man 
 took his place. 
 
 If you would see the Pass, of which so 
 much was written when so little was known 
 of the Klondyke itself, you have only to 
 imagine a broad incline at an angle of nearly 
 forty-five degrees, seven hundred feet in height, 
 running between two snowy peaks at its sum- 
 mit, with men in the foreground bending 
 under the weight of heavy packs, and gradu- 
 ally growing smaller as they ascend, until, 
 finally, they seem like ants dangerously near 
 toppling over with their loads, though, to your 
 relief and amazement, crawling off the white 
 blanket into the sky. 
 

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 Pilgrims Resting on the Chilkoot. 
 
 Packing" Timber. 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 In the hard, well-packed snow, steps had 
 been cut, making it a case of walking up- 
 stairs rather than of climbing. At intervals, 
 more welcome than the chairs on the land- 
 ings of an apartment house which has no 
 elevator, seats had been cut. Men stepping 
 out of the slow-moving line found rest in 
 these. It was not '' game " to groan, but pur- 
 ple faces and lungs gasping for more power 
 for bodies quivering with excess of strain 
 told of misery that was felt if not expressed. 
 When a man did break down he collapsed 
 utterly, and sometimes he wept. 
 
 Fifty pounds was the usual weight of a 
 pack for all who did not take pride in ex- 
 hibiting their brute strength. These, and the 
 professional packers who bore the outfits of 
 pilgrims who could afford this luxury, often 
 labored under a hundred pounds or more. 
 The hero of the day was an Indian. He took 
 up a barrel weighing three hundred and fifty 
 pounds. A Swede who crawled up on his 
 hands and knees with three six-by-four timbers 
 strapped on his back shared honors with him, 
 however. The descent to the Scales was de- 
 lightfully simple. You sat down and tobog- 
 ganed, using your heels as a brake, without 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 any unpleasant results if you had well-riveted 
 overalls. 
 
 On the crest were piled hundreds of pilgrims' 
 outfits, separated one from another by narrow 
 paths, making the whole seem like a city in 
 miniature. Buried under the seventy feet of 
 snow which had fallen during the winter were 
 two other such cities, which their owners hoped 
 to recover in the summer. Beyond floated 
 a large British flag over the little block-house 
 where the British Northwest Mounted Police 
 had established themselves to collect customs 
 and to see that no one not having a special 
 permit entered Canadian territory with less 
 than a year's supply of food. 
 
 Jack labored for two hours in bringing up 
 the dogs with the empty sleds, while our goods 
 came on the backs of the ants, who charged 
 three cents a pound for the service. Aside 
 from the five huskies hitched to a large basket- 
 sled, we had two St. Bernards, " Patsy " and 
 "Tim," who were born in the country, and 
 duly christened and acclimatized there. With 
 *' Patsy " and ''Tim," and my hand on the 
 *' gee-pole" by which the sled was guided, I 
 went under fire for the first time in descending 
 the inland side of the pass. Man and sled 
 
 10 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 were put hors de combat again and again, while 
 the dogs, who managed to keep erect, looked 
 back on me with professional disgust. I 
 wanted to blame my misfortunes to my moc- 
 casins, but Jack wore moccasins as well and 
 maintained his footing easily. Fortunately 
 for the novice there are three small lakes — 
 at the time they were three fields of snow — 
 in the nine miles from the Summit to Linder- 
 man, and he could take advantage of the res- 
 pite when he was trotting across these to 
 think out, in the hard-and-fast civilized man- 
 ner, how to avoid his frequent loss of equilib- 
 rium. 
 
 We spent the night ** at home" with Jack 
 in his own camp on the shore of Lake Linder- 
 man. Jack and his '' pardner" CHff had been 
 among the pilgrims who had attempted to 
 reach Dawson in the same summer that the 
 news of the great '* strike " was received by the 
 outside world. The ice formed in the lakes 
 and rivers before they could build their boats, 
 and there had been nothing to do but to wait 
 eight months until the ice was gone. Once 
 he had bought a team of dogs, however. Jack 
 became enamoured of making the journey now 
 at last before him. On the other hand nothing 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 apparently had disturbed the patience of Cliff, 
 who was a broad-shouldered giant, over six feet 
 in height. The pair had first met in Seattle, 
 formed an alliance "for dust or bust," as Cliff 
 said, and had thought more of each other ** every 
 minute ever since." Cliff was to stay at Lin- 
 derman now, but their alliance was resumed 
 later in Dawson, when Jack, Fritz, and I dis- 
 solved partnership. 
 
 While we were putting our outfits straight 
 and Jack was writing a letter — from his sighs 
 I concluded that it was to his best girl — Cliff 
 cooked flapjacks and fried bacon, sang snatches 
 of what had been the latest popular songs when 
 he left Colorado, and talked to his favorite dog, 
 a Great Dane, who was as scarred as a veteran. 
 
 ** Think you're going to be slighted, don't 
 you, Maje ?" he rambled on. ** Froze off your 
 ears already, ain't you ? 'Tain't no country 
 for short-haired dogs, is it ? Don't want to 
 lose your tail, too. No, sir. You're going 
 to sleep in the tent same's ever, and if they 
 don't like it I'll tell you 'sickum,' and they 
 won't be with us long." 
 
 Major curled up at Cliff's feet as usual that 
 night. Inasmuch as he had a snow-bath when- 
 ever he was caught in a storm, he was more 
 
 12 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 agreeable than many human beings whose 
 bodies had not touched water for months. 
 
 In a day we had passed over the only por- 
 tion of our journey on land, and we were 
 henceforth, as Jack put it gayly, to proceed 
 downhill with the current of the river at the 
 rate of eight inches to the mile, which is fast 
 enough as currents go, but rather poor coast- 
 ing. The course of the Yukon through the 
 heart of Alaska is in a semicircle, with one 
 end at the coast and the other end as near to 
 the coast as the head-waters of a stream can 
 be, unless it flows on the level. Once he has 
 reached the lakes, the prospector may float for 
 2,600 miles to Bering Sea, and but for this 
 one of the two friendly deeds of nature in 
 Alaska — the other is abundant firewood — it is 
 questionable if the gold in the Klondyke would 
 have been discovered in our generation. De 
 Soto's exploring party would have had a similar 
 advantage if the Mississippi had risen within 
 thirty-two miles of Cape Hatteras, and they 
 would have needed it if the valley of the Mis- 
 sissippi had been like the valley of the Yukon. 
 
 In harnessing our dogs at dawn, as we 
 looked out across Lake Linderman from Jack's 
 camp, the only color in sight in the vast ex- 
 
 13 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 panse of white was the needle-like fir-trees, 
 cropping through the snow on the mountain- 
 sides, and the outlines of a few pilgrims in 
 advance of the main body, already astir, drag- 
 ging their sleds on to Lake Bennett, where, 
 with whipsaws, hammers, nails, oakum, and 
 pitch, was to be built out of the forests the 
 unique and variegated flotilla which was to 
 line the river-banks in front of Dawson in May 
 and June. Jack snapped the long lash of his 
 whip, shook the ** gee-pole" to free the runners, 
 cried *' Mush ! " — a Saxon contraction of the 
 *' Marchons I " brought into the country along 
 with many other words by the French Cana- 
 dians — and seven gallant four-footed com- 
 rades and three figures in parkees looking like 
 hooded night-shirts began in earnest their 
 journey over the trail hardened by the pil- 
 grims' footsteps. By the wayside we passed 
 caches of waterproof bags, one of them at 
 either end of a pilgrim's route of daily toil in 
 moving his outfit forward by relays, his own 
 ambition making him undergo longer hours 
 and greater strain than he, a free citizen 
 (U. S. A.), would have endured for any other 
 master. 
 
 Linderman is only four miles long, and we 
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THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 were soon on Bennett, where the afternoon 
 brought, in sharp contrast to the keen atmos- 
 phere of the morning, a blowing storm of 
 moist snow which wet us to the skin. When 
 Jack halted the dogs for our first and our 
 worst camp, whose only consolation was a 
 water-hole that had been made by some pil- 
 grim, they set up a howl of knowing delight. 
 
 With the snow up to my waist I cut fire- 
 wood out of the abundance of dead timber, 
 and then cut green spruce-boughs, which, when 
 laid tufts upward on the snow that was packed 
 down as a floor for our seven-by-seven tent, 
 made a soft bed. Then I went for a pail of 
 water and brought in my sleeping-bag, and my 
 work was done. The air had cleared suddenly, 
 and the weather had turned so cold that my 
 parkee had frozen as stiff as a board. I pulled 
 it off, substituted dry moccasins and socks for 
 my wet ones, left the rest of my clothes to be 
 dried by the warmth of my body, and then, 
 huddling myself up with my sleeping-bag as a 
 seat, I watched my comrades finishing their al- 
 lotted tasks. 
 
 Fritz, who had been chosen cook, was sitting 
 with one leg on either side of the little sheet- 
 iron stove, smoking a cigarette and making 
 
 15 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 flapjacks. Outside, by the light of the crack- 
 ling blaze, I could see Jack stirring something 
 in a pan over a roaring fire with a big ladle 
 that he had whittled out of a sapling. Weirdly- 
 presiding over this operation, their bodies in 
 shadow and their wolf-noses thrust forward 
 with epicurean relish, were the huskies. Jack 
 fed them only once a day, but then all that 
 they could eat of tallow, bacon, cornmeal, and 
 rice, thoroughly boiled in the form of a por- 
 ridge. When he took the pan off the fire he 
 put it, safely covered, in the snow to cool, 
 while the dogs mounted guard over it, glaring 
 at one another ; and then he came to sit on his 
 own bed, and together we ate by the light of a 
 candle hanging by a piece of wire from the 
 top of the tent. As I had my granite-ware 
 plate filled with beans the second time and 
 took my fourth flapjack — a flapjack an inch 
 thick and seven inches in diameter — a twinkle 
 came into Jack's eyes. 
 
 ** I like to see a man in earnest," he said. 
 
 Then he relighted his pipe and went back to 
 his dogs. Having filled a two-quart tin pan 
 for each of them, with the ardor of a child he 
 heaped more timber on the dying fire, and, 
 turning his back to the cheerful glow, began a 
 
 i6 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 technical conversation on the state of the trail 
 with sleek old Dude, the leader of the team. 
 
 Later, when he returned to the tent, the dogs 
 were so many balls of fur, their noses snuggled 
 under their bushy tails. If two feet of snow 
 had fallen during the night it would not have 
 disturbed the serenity of their slumbers, and in 
 the morning at the call to harness they would 
 have dug their way out and shaken themselves 
 ready for duty. Jack explained, as he pulled 
 off his moccasins, that they had eaten only half 
 their usual rations. Having been treated to 
 beefsteak in Dyea by their generous owner, 
 they rather resented marching fare ; but they 
 would come down to it as soon as they felt the 
 pangs of hunger, he added. 
 
 '' Are you tired ? " I asked him. 
 
 '' Me ? No," he drawled. 
 
 He filled up the stove — he must always 
 have a fire of some kind going — and, leaning 
 back on his robe, his hands behind his head, 
 he looked up at the top of the tent dreamily. 
 He was still in this attitude when I crawled 
 into my sleeping-bag and quickly fell asleep. 
 The sleeping-bag did well enough for that 
 night, but I soon repented of it. With no op- 
 portunity for airing it properly, it soon collect- 
 
 17 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 ed moisture and became as a uncomfortable as 
 a coating of ice. After I had been kept awake 
 for a night by the colder weather that followed 
 the storm, I ripped it open and used the furs as 
 a robe, which, with the assistance of a heavy 
 blanket, kept me as warm as toast, though, 
 when I awoke, there was a glacial path through 
 the space I had left open for breathing. The 
 wonder to me was that Jack did not freeze his 
 nose — it was a large nose — for he always slept 
 with his head completely outside of his cover- 
 ings, his beard becoming as white with ice as 
 that of Father Christmas. 
 
 " Blister me if I want to smother ! " was his 
 explanation. 
 
 The first one to awake in the morning 
 crawled half-way out of his robe, and, dexter- 
 ously leaning over, put the coffee-pot on the 
 stove and made the fire out of the kindlings 
 which were always ready. To dress was to put 
 on your footwear, which had been drying — if it 
 had not been burning — before the stove. Then 
 the robes and blankets were rolled up and 
 strapped to serve as seats for breakfast, and you 
 stepped outside into the invigorating air and 
 did what you might in the way of cleanliness. 
 For my part, I washed my hands in the snow, 
 
 i8 
 
iw 
 
 o 
 
 '4 
 
 m ' 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 using soap liberally, with astonishingly effica- 
 cious results. After breakfast we had to pack 
 all the things that we had unpacked the night 
 before back on the sleds and lash them. 
 
 On the Lewes lakes, and the streams which 
 join them in a chain, one day was quite like 
 another, with the exception of a single event of 
 importance to ourselves. At daybreak we 
 were on the level trail, now trotting and then 
 walking, until our stomachs cried a halt. On 
 three occasions we had luncheon in the tents 
 of pilgrims who, not having been able to bring 
 their supplies over the pass in the rush of 
 the previous autumn before winter was at 
 hand, were making for the foot of Lake Le 
 Barge to take advantage of the three weeks by 
 which the clearing of the ice in the river 
 precedes the clearing of the ice in the lakes. 
 While his partner was dragging his sled, one of 
 our hosts was suffering in his tent the torture 
 of snow-blindness as the penalty of having 
 gone for a day without glasses. Another host, 
 an old Dane from San Francisco, had no com- 
 panion, not even a dog. 
 
 *' Sometime I do get mad," he said, *' when 
 the sled pull so hard, and I say, ' Yohn, you 
 are a big fool to start for Klondyke when you 
 
 19 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 are sixty-nine.' But we do not like to gif up. 
 Nefer do we get so old we tank it too late to 
 make a fortune. If a man know as he would 
 drop dead on top of the Pass, I tank a man 
 go on to see the t'ing out. I make a fortune 
 t'ree time, and efery time I haf many pad lucks 
 — yes, very many pad lucks. Sometime I get 
 lonely, and then I say, ' Yohn, there is your 
 wife, there is your shildren ; it is Sunday din- 
 ner, and you are home with a pile of gold.' " 
 
 How we relished the one rapidly diminishing 
 ham that we had brought with us for our first 
 luncheons, followed by the perfect relaxation 
 which comes with good digestion and physical 
 fatigue, glorified by a pipe, before we arose 
 and turned our steps toward the brown line 
 of sled-track which stretched out over the ex- 
 panse of white until growing darkness made 
 it dim, and Jack began to look out for the 
 first favorable place for a camp ! 
 
 At this time it was reported that a great 
 ''strike" of $2.50 to the pan had been made 
 on Walsh Creek, a tributary of the Yukon 
 near Big Salmon. The rumor afterwards 
 turned out to be an exaggeration — only thirty 
 cents a pan being the amount actually found, 
 which had grown as it travelled up the lakes. 
 
 20 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 Many of the pilgrims, among them ourselves, 
 who already had their year's supply of food 
 over the Pass, and some who had not but were 
 able to elude the police, leaving their caches 
 in charge of friends, put a tent, half a side of 
 bacon, a few quarts of flour, and a few quarts 
 of beans on a sled behind d lean house-dog, 
 and hastened toward Walsh Creek without 
 regard to fatigue or exposure. A sallow and 
 swarthy Quixote who had not made even this 
 provision for his stomach and none for his 
 back except a small blanket, called upon us 
 one morning when we were at breakfast. Be- 
 fore he asked for something to eat he intro- 
 duced himself as a Cuban who had been a 
 cook in New York, but had concluded to be 
 a cook no more now that fortunes were to be 
 had for a little hard travelling. 
 
 '* You see, gents," he further explained, as- 
 suming a serene air of fellowship, ** I've been 
 walking at night so's to get past the police 
 stations. They won't let a feller by when he 
 ain't got any grub. If I carried grub I'd be 
 too late for the strike, mebbe." 
 
 " But you'll observe, I'm thinkin'," Jack 
 suggested, *' that hotels are few and far between 
 in this region." 
 
 21 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 *' Oh, I'll manage to get on somehow. 
 There's a lot of luck in this world if you dodge 
 about so it'll hit you. I didn't know where 
 I'd get my breakfast, but I've got it, that's 
 sure." 
 
 He wished us much happiness, put his 
 blanket on his back, and walked on as uncon- 
 cernedly as if he had a whole baggage train at 
 his heels. But this was not until he had sug- 
 gested with the aplomb of the Bowery that 
 we would do well to take him on as a " pard- 
 ner." What became of him I do not know. 
 Possibly his body lies among a pile of drift- 
 wood on some sandbar in the river. On the 
 other hand, I should not be surprised to see 
 him one day on Broadway, a huge diamond in 
 his shirt bosom and a blond lady on his arm, 
 or to read an account of him in a newspaper 
 under the head of '' From Cook to Million- 
 aire." 
 
 The Walsh Creek digression caused two 
 weeks' delay at a time when we felt the need 
 of every day to complete our journey, and I 
 accept the awkward responsibility for it. At 
 White Horse Canyon we were offered the 
 hospitality of a large cabin with a kitchen in 
 one end and bunk-room in the other, occupied 
 
 22 
 
?3 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 by some workmen engaged in building a tram- 
 way around the rapids. Jack suggested that 
 we stop here for a day because the dogs needed 
 rest, he said, but really on my account, I think. 
 I had contracted a bad cough, and my legs 
 ached like two great teeth. In the afternoon 
 I lay down on the cook's bunk, and toward 
 evening Fritz started down the trail to a dis- 
 tant camp to find a doctor who had turned pil- 
 grim of fortune. Meanwhile Jake, the cook, 
 dosed me with tea made of sage that he had 
 gathered on the mountain-side. 
 
 '* Your pulse is up to a hundred and ten," 
 the doctor said; "but all that youVe got is a 
 plain, old-fashioned case of measles. You 
 must have caught them in Dyea, and you've 
 greatly exaggerated them by physical strain." 
 
 My comrades put up a tent in another cabin 
 which still wanted doors and windows, thus 
 ensuring a soft light for the protection of my 
 eyes, which the doctor feared might be af- 
 fected. They nailed some saplings together 
 for a bedstead, and were so ingenious in many 
 ways, so kind in keeping the temperature the 
 same night and day, and in attending to my 
 wants generally, that I felt like a king in his 
 private hospital. Jake came in every day to 
 
 23 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 make sure that I was taking the doses of sage- 
 tea that he sent in morning, noon, and night ; 
 while the big workmen came in to hint that I 
 must not let Jake have his own way too much. 
 And I lay on my back and thought of two 
 things — strawberries and pineapples. I would 
 have given all my wealth for either — but not a 
 five-cent piece for a pear. 
 
 My convalescence was not so dull as I sat on 
 a bench in the kitchen, learning, under Jake's 
 tutelage, how to cook oatmeal properly, how 
 to bake bread and to make good pies out of 
 dried apples, and listening to him expound his 
 ideas of the world. He was a great cynic. If 
 you believed in one thing, he was sure to be- 
 lieve in another. One of his favorite remarks 
 with which he baited me was that *' everybody 
 is out for the stuff ; there ain't no honor now- 
 adays ; and you don't catch me missin' no 
 dollars." His boarders excused him by saying, 
 ''Any cook that's been in a minin'-camp or a 
 lumber-camp is always a blisterin' crank." On 
 the morning of my departure I held out a bill 
 to Jake in partial remuneration for what he 
 had done for me. He stirred the contents of 
 his pot this way and that, viciously, without re- 
 plying. I protested, and then he growled : 
 
 24 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 * Gwan ! What d'ye take me for ? " 
 As I waved him a good-by he called out : 
 '' Young feller, you're all right, but you won't 
 argue." 
 
 In two days we were at the foot of Lake Le 
 Barge, and on the second of these we had 
 travelled thirty-five miles, which made the dogs 
 very unfit for service on the day following. 
 
 So all of another two days' hard work was 
 required to go from the foot of Le Barge to 
 the junction of the Hootalinqua over a por- 
 tion of the Yukon known from its length as 
 Thirty Mile River, and certainly worthy of some 
 distinction on account of other characteristics. 
 Many more boats of the pilgrims' flotilla were 
 wrecked in the spring on its hidden rocks than 
 in the White Horse Rapids, which, I may add, 
 have received undue celebrity. If an average 
 temperature of thirty degrees below zero con- 
 tinues for several weeks, the current may 
 freeze over, but rarely is there more than 
 bench ice along the shores; and this, owing 
 to the increasingly moderate weather and the 
 falling water, was fast breaking away in huge 
 cakes, which fell into the stream with a splash. 
 Over that which remained, slippery, sometimes 
 sloping toward the river at a considerable 
 
 25 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 angle, and often only a foot or two in breadth, 
 we must make our way. When there was no 
 footing below the sled, we attached one end 
 of a rope to it, wrapped the other end around 
 our waists, and if one of us slipped and fell 
 in the soft snow of the steep hill-side above, 
 luckily the others maintained their hold and 
 were able to prevent both sleds and dogs from 
 going into the river and putting an end to our 
 little expedition there and then. 
 
 There was only one accident, and that not 
 alarming. Fritz thought that he did not need 
 our help to bring the St. Bernards over a 
 place that the big sled had safely crossed with 
 Jack's back and mine against it and with the 
 heavy steel prongs strapped to the heels of our 
 boots dug into the ice. We heard a cry of 
 ** Hurry up ! This is cold ! " and looked around 
 to see Fritz standing in a shallow eddy up to 
 his waist, his parkee blown up about his head 
 like a veritable balloon, while he braced him- 
 self against the sled. " I had to jump in to 
 save our bedding," he said. We hurried on 
 the faster so that he might keep his blood in 
 circulation, and he merely took the trouble to 
 change his socks when we made a camp on 
 a fairly comfortable ice-cake, after having as- 
 
 26 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 sured ourselves that it would not float away 
 with us during the night. 
 
 Near the Hootalinqua the current slackens, 
 and we crossed where the stream was com- 
 pletely frozen over. Above us was a great jam 
 of cakes that had floated down, some of which 
 rumbled under our feet, came out in an open 
 place below, and then went on to form another 
 jam. A few minutes later there was a boom 
 and our bridge moved downstream with the 
 noise of a medley of bass drums. At noon on 
 this day the sun had made the trail so soft that 
 we sank into it up to our knees. We halted a 
 little later, determined to start at one o'clock 
 in the morning and take advantage of the 
 crust frozen during the night ; and we had 
 what seemed at the time the good fortune to 
 put up in a cabin which had been abandoned 
 by the mounted police. Having had an early 
 dinner, we were thinking of bed at six o'clock 
 when two ragged men, their faces blackened 
 by cooking over camp-fires, came in. They sat 
 down, and when they had eaten with the heart- 
 iness of famished beings some things that we 
 had left on the table, one of them, whom his 
 companion called *' the Doctor," became ex- 
 planatory : 
 
 27 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 " You mustn't mind our appetites," he said. 
 We've just come from Dawson. My pardner 
 there, Yukon Bill, hain't been out of the 
 country for eight years. Go easy there. Bill ! 
 Your manners are bad." 
 
 *' Shut up ! " roared Bill, looking as wild as 
 a hungry lynx. 
 
 *'Oh, he ain't as crazy as Jim," continued 
 the Doctor. ''Jim was a sight uglier 'n Bill, 
 an' you can see what Bill is. He took his 
 share of the bacon on his back an' started out 
 for himself this mornin'." 
 
 '* No packin' fer me ! We kept the dogs, 
 you bet, by ," put in Bill through a mouth- 
 ful. 
 
 Jim arrived three hours later. Without pay- 
 ing any attention to the presence of other 
 persons, he dropped his pack as if it were of 
 lead, fell down on the bench, pushed back 
 his unkempt hair, and looked vacantly at the 
 stove. 
 
 '' Hello, Jim, you loon !" the Doctor called 
 out. '' As long's we've said quits, I ain't goin' 
 to be mean. Have one of our flapjacks ! " 
 
 " Eat yer own dirt," replied Jim. " I kin 
 cook, an' I've got just as much right in this 
 cabin as you have." And Jim put a skil- 
 
 28 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 let with a piece of dirty bacon in it on the 
 stove. 
 
 ** Don't push my pan off there, you eight- 
 footed elephant ! " cried the Doctor. 
 
 Jim lifted his skillet and turned on the Doc- 
 tor. Then he set the skillet down again with 
 the action of one who is too tired for further 
 effort, and fell back onto his seat. 
 
 " You Siawash sons of the devil," he said be- 
 tween his teeth, " if I ever git my strength on 
 the outside I'll lick both on ye till ye bawl Hke 
 a calf." And brushing back his hair again he 
 added, in a protesting voice, after a moment's 
 pause : '' I kin do it, too ! " 
 
 " Bully old Jim ! " observed the Doctor. 
 
 It was plain enough that the minds of all 
 three of our visitors, especially Jim, had been 
 affected by the hardships that they had endured 
 on their long tramp, with only snow, trees, 
 dogs, and their own quarrels for companion- 
 ship. Most of these grim travellers whom we 
 met coming out from Dawson — now and then 
 one was limping from scurvy — had neither tent 
 nor stove, quite inadequate robes, no dishes 
 except skillets and cups, and no food except 
 bacon, flour, and beans, and not always beans. 
 Earlier in the winter they put up a barrier of 
 
 29 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 boughs against the wind, and slept between two 
 great fires, kept up by the member of the party 
 whose night it was to watch. 
 
 At eleven o'clock the Doctor stopped talk- 
 ing, and we slept for half an hour, only to be 
 awakened by the arrival of another equally 
 worn-out party, and almost the last one from 
 Dawson that we met. By the time we were 
 fairly asleep again these tired beings set the 
 cabin on fire, and Jack, in his good-natured 
 way, put the flames out for them. 
 
 At daylight I was awakened by Fritz, who 
 was grumbling to himself about the audacity 
 and the stomachs that some people must have. 
 I arose to see him looking into two empty pails 
 which he had left full of apple-sauce and beans. 
 
 " I was hungry as a dog in the night," the 
 Doctor explained, a little later, ''and I couldn't 
 help it." 
 
 Fritz replied by looking daggers at him. 
 Then the Doctor offered a pair of snow-shoes 
 to Fritz as an olive branch. 
 
 " If I thought that what you've eaten would 
 make you downright sick, I'd take 'em," said 
 Fritz. 
 
 " 'Twon't," replied the Doctor, in all honesty. 
 ** Nothin* makes me sick." And he gave the 
 
 30 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 snow-shoes to Jack, whose eyes were twinkling 
 in appreciation of the conversation. 
 
 As we started out, five or six hours later 
 than we had planned, we resolved to eschew 
 cabins hereafter. We had not done a half- 
 day's work when a heavy wet snow set in, 
 and the condition of the dogs compelled us 
 to rest. 
 
 '' Wear 'em out," said Jack, ** and it's all up, 
 anyway. We'll boil some beans and lay up 
 some sleep ahead against a freeze." 
 
 Accordingly, dogs and men slept for thirteen 
 hours. 
 
 So slight was the freeze at night that the 
 sun, now rising at four o'clock, soon thawed 
 the crust. The Big Salmon was already open, 
 its current destroying the trail and leaving a 
 field of slush with many places too deep for 
 passage for a distance of five or six miles, which 
 was as wearing on the dogs as a full day's jour- 
 ney under ordinary circumstances. We only 
 hoped that the Big Salmon was alone in its 
 enmity to our plans, for once the ice is out of 
 the tributaries, the ice in the Yukon cannot 
 last long. It seemed to be imperative that, in 
 order to take full advantage of the slight crust 
 which formed, we should travel nights. We 
 
 31 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 made this experiment once, starting out at 
 lo P.M., and once was quite enough. 
 
 The thawing snow had fallen away from the 
 path, which was hardened by travel from 
 Dawson and therefore the better resisted the 
 sun's rays ; but when frozen it was as slippery 
 as ice. In so far as you were able to keep the 
 sled from slewing on this razor's back, that 
 much you aided the dogs. At intervals you 
 walked outside the trail, plunging with every 
 step through the crust down to the slush 
 underneath, while, with body bent and arm ex- 
 tended with all the rigidity at your command, 
 you endeavored to hold the lurching *' gee- 
 pole " steady. Early in the evening the great 
 darkness seemed the more dense to visions 
 strained by the sun beating on the expanse of 
 snow by day. With their eyes bloodshot and 
 almost closed with snow-blindness, the St. 
 Bernards continually stumbled and fell as they 
 leaped from one side of the trail to the other, 
 blindly and vainly seeking a better footing. 
 When we rested we dug holes in the crust, and 
 throwing ourselves prostrate, drank our fill. 
 At first, I tried to use a telescope drinking- 
 cup, but soon I regarded it as tawdry, ineffi- 
 cient, and unworthy of the occasion, and fol- 
 
 32 
 
O 
 O 
 
 be 
 
 U 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 lowed the more robust custom of Jack, who 
 enjoyed to the full the pleasure of having 
 made a convert. For one who had left White 
 Horse with a bad cough on the heels of the 
 measles, such indulgence would seem to be the 
 height of indiscretion. But the cough was 
 completely gone, no room having been left for 
 it in the development of every muscle of my 
 body by the handling of the ''gee-pole." 
 
 At these times we would pay our respects 
 with some bitterness to the man who had 
 made this strange and lonely trail, though in 
 better moments we were willing to admit that 
 he was a pioneer and a pathfinder. As soon 
 as the ice would bear him, when the wind had 
 drifted the snow here and there and lifted the 
 slush ice up to be frozen into rifts, with his 
 dogs and sleds he set his face toward the coast, 
 winding in and out between these rifts, back 
 and forth across the stream and along its 
 banks, wherever he could find the best foot- 
 ing; and all who came afterward followed in 
 his footsteps. He was making a path for him- 
 self and not for us, and it was to his interest, if 
 not to ours, to have it as crooked as the track 
 of a snake, and on the most crooked of rivers 
 at that. 
 
 33 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 With the falling of the water as the winter 
 advanced, the ice was rent with cracks. It fell 
 away from the shores, leaving cakes on end 
 and fissures. You must toil up one side of a 
 pyramid to slide down the other ; you held 
 your sled up literally at an angle of forty-five 
 degrees, and sometimes you dropped up to 
 your hips into the fissures, for the thin cover- 
 ing of snow often made them invisible even 
 in the daytime. Yet to step away from the 
 trail was like stepping off a bad corduroy road 
 into a swamp. 
 
 In the darkness the trained eye of the 
 master had to trust to the halt and whine of 
 the brave little Dude when we came to a 
 place where the surface water was deep or the 
 ice had given away entirely. While the master 
 went ahead with a pole to make soundings, 
 Fritz seized the opportunity to roll a cigarette 
 and to say in a drawl, as he sat on his sled, 
 resting r 
 
 " If I were in town I would call a cab." 
 
 Jack had discarded his boots with sharp pegs 
 — the three of us had worn boots since it be- 
 came warmer — to put on moccasins. These 
 were soon wet and quickly froze, giving him 
 a sole of ice with which to walk on ice. In 
 
 34 
 
THE START FROM DYEA 
 
 utter exhaustion, once the big fellow threw 
 himself upon his " gee-pole " and gasped out 
 something about not caring whether he went 
 any farther or not. Then he added : 
 
 '* Well, we'll outlast this trail, anyway. I 
 guess I'll light my pipe." 
 
 Confessedly, I was rather glad of the in- 
 cident. It is good to see giants nod when you 
 have nodded yourself. Only on the previous 
 day, over a mile of sidling trail, leaning on my 
 sled to keep it from upsetting, and righting it 
 when it did upset, I had momentarily, I am 
 ashamed to say, turned cynic and protester. 
 
 An hour before dawn a scimeter of light 
 shot across the heavens, followed by broad- 
 swords, fans, daggers, waves, and streaks of 
 light, dancing sometimes in playful panic and 
 again moving in a sweep of dignity. With 
 the aurora borealis as our candle, we passed 
 around Freeman's Point, built a fire for lunch- 
 eon in a cove, and enjoyed keenly the fact that 
 we were half way to Dawson. 
 
 35 
 
II 
 
 ON THE TRAIL 
 
 Personalities — The Forbears of Jack and Fritz — Good Camp 
 Manners — Dog Individuality — Dude — The Team of 
 Huskies — Wayfarers at Five Fingers — Fort Selkirk 
 and Pelly — The Thanksgiving Turkey that Did Not 
 Get to Dawson — A Diet of Flapjacks — Suburbs of the 
 Klondyke Capital — The Passing of the Trail. 
 
 AS we moved on slowly at dawn to make a 
 few more miles before camping, we saw 
 the penalty of this savage run, which human 
 stubbornness had insisted upon making, in the 
 blood left on the trail by the wounded feet of 
 our dogs. Jack at once covered them with the 
 moccasins which he had brought for the pur- 
 pose. It was plain enough that the continu- 
 ance of night marches was unfeasible if we 
 desired our brave steeds to hold out as far as 
 Dawson. While the sled slid easier at night, 
 the excrescences of ice were as sharp as lances, 
 and though the mushy trail of mid-day made 
 the sled harder to pull, it was like a cushion 
 for a wounded foot. We compromised upon 
 
 36 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 a portion of both evils by determining to start 
 at dawn and travel as fast and as long as we 
 could, practically. This gave only seven or 
 eight hours on the road as against the twelve 
 or more that we had originally planned, and 
 in order to make the most of them we made 
 the sacrifice for the dogs' sake of drinking ice- 
 water for our luncheon instead of taking the 
 time to boil chocolate. Fritz preferring to 
 handle the '* gee-pole," and I preferring to 
 assist in keeping the equilibrium of the big sled 
 by holding the handles at the rear, each settled 
 down to this as his definite labor. 
 
 We now had more time for our camps ; 
 more time for our pipes of relaxation as we 
 sat on our beds around Jack's bonfires after 
 the dogs were fed and dinner was eaten. On 
 one of these nights we were talking of am- 
 bitions. 
 
 ** As a boy, I wanted to drive a street-car," 
 said Fritz. '' When I grew older they still 
 called me Freddy, and I made pictures for a 
 living. That is enough to ruin any man ; and, 
 foreseeing this, I concluded that I'd live on flap- 
 jacks and go unwashed, and be called ' pardner,' 
 or Pete, or Bill, or make baking-powder dough, 
 or anything, till I found a good placer mine. 
 
 37 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 Then I'm going around the world, smoking 
 the best brand of Turkish cigarettes, and look- 
 ing at other people's pictures." 
 
 Jack had run away from home at the age 
 of thirteen to the land of the Indians that had 
 been revealed to him in a dime novel secreted 
 in a haymow, and had earned his own living 
 ever since. Meagre as was his early education, 
 he had picked up a surprising amount of in- 
 formation from reading and from association. 
 His eye was that of a scout ; his knowledge of 
 birds and animals that of a naturalist ; his love 
 of flowers that of a sentimentalist. He had 
 varied his life as a cowboy by many other oc- 
 cupations. At one time he had been a private 
 coachman in Omaha, just to see how it would 
 seem. 
 
 " I was gettin' pretty sick of the job," he ex- 
 plained, "when the old lady I drove about 
 leaned over to me one day, confidentially. 
 'I'm goin' to get you a fine livery to wear,' she 
 said. Then I realized how low I had fallen, 
 and that evening I was a free man again." 
 
 He was longer on the Government survey 
 than in any other employment, rising until he 
 filled a position of considerable responsibility. 
 Possibly it was then that he learned the ethics 
 
 38 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 of camp-life ; more likely they were innate. 
 He adhered to his own soap, his own towel, 
 and his own bedding, and was more observant 
 of the small niceties of life than are most of the 
 men who wear the high collars that he despised. 
 In all of his seventeen years of wandering his 
 greatest source of sorrow was that he had never 
 made enough money, according to his ideas, to 
 return home, though his pay had been as high 
 as a hundred and fifty dollars a month. He 
 must have a few thousands, and treat the little 
 Pennsylvania village that was his birthplace to 
 such extravagance as it had never seen before. 
 If he made a '' stake " in the Klondyke, he 
 had planned to drive right up to the old folks' 
 door with his team of huskies and a little red 
 cart, distributing candy to the children as the 
 procession moved forward. 
 
 The dogs, which at first seemed to me to be 
 only so many domesticated wolves of like dis- 
 positions, had now assumed strong individuali- 
 ties. Dude, the leader, was worthy of the 
 name given to him, on account of his sleek coat 
 of thick gray fur, by the frontiersman who had 
 instilled into him the wisdom of the trail and 
 soldierly spirit and obedience. He was the 
 sergeant-major among Yukon dogs, far from 
 
 39 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 being a pup in years and far from having lost 
 his vigor. When called to harness in the morn- 
 ing he would stretch his body, arch his neck, 
 throw his handsome tail over his back, deliver 
 himself of a peculiar little wolfish whine, and 
 trot straight to his place. Though your old 
 sergeant-major may feel a little stiff when he 
 gets out of bed, he isn't stiff when he has his 
 tunic on, especially if there are any recruits 
 about. From the moment that Jack called 
 " Mush !" until he called '' Halt ! " Dude pulled 
 steadily. All the others shirked at times and 
 needed the crack of the whip to remind them of 
 their duty, but the traces between Dude and 
 the dog behind him were always taut. He 
 had the natural dignity requisite to his position. 
 The other dogs attempted no familiarities with 
 him, such as eating out of his dish or trying to 
 bowl him over in sport. After an unusually 
 hard day's work, before lying down to rest, he 
 would gambol a little with them as a relaxation 
 from the steady strain in harness, but not in a 
 manner of equality. 
 
 During their conversations while the master 
 was stirring the porridge he asked the ser- 
 geant-major what he thought of the prospects 
 of reaching Dawson before the ice went out of 
 
 40 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 the river, Dude replied, on the authority of 
 Jack's translation : 
 
 " Don't ask me ! I can make it all right. 
 But we ain't certain of anything as long as we 
 have those house-dogs on the hind sled." 
 
 Next to Dude was Fox, a nondescript, who 
 remained in good flesh up to the last. He 
 waddled and puffed in trying to keep up when 
 Dude trotted. Fritz said that Fox reminded 
 him of a fat school-girl, her cheeks daubed with 
 molasses candy, and two braids down her back. 
 
 Behind Fox was Jack, a pup, a mischief- 
 maker, a rascal, and an actor. All husky dogs 
 are thieves. Some will take a pot off a stove 
 by its handle and hide it safely out of sight in 
 the snow while they wait for its contents to 
 cool to their taste. Jack promised to become 
 the most accomplished of the clan. His wolf's 
 nose always told him where our bacon was 
 stored and his wolf's eyes told him when his 
 opportunity had arrived. Once he had the 
 meat out of his own basin of porridge eaten, 
 he looked up to see which dog had any left and 
 got it before the other dog realized what was 
 up. He would scent an Indian camp even 
 before Dude, sometimes at a distance of two 
 miles. In the traces he forgot to pull while he 
 
 41 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 looked at the ravens flying overhead or listened 
 for noises in the forest. Then the whip de- 
 scended upon him and he would seem very- 
 crestfallen for a moment, only to be at his old 
 tricks and to have his tail in the air in the next. 
 The more he was punished for dereliction during 
 the day, the greater was his affection for his 
 master in camp. On the warmer nights when 
 Jack slept outside of the hut for the sake of 
 elbow room, he would put himself on guard at 
 the head of the master's bed of boughs and 
 allow no other dog except Dude to come near. 
 
 Dude was partial to him. He regarded Jack 
 as a wayward but clever pup who was sowing 
 his wild oats, and he knew, as an old sergeant- 
 major, that this would make the best kind of a 
 dog in the end. Often the master took hold 
 of the ne'er-do-well's ears and shook him, say- 
 ing : 
 
 " I guess I like you best, after all. Jack. 
 That's the way of the world. You're a rascal, 
 but you're clever." 
 
 Next in line was Tommy, Jack's brother. 
 Jack enjoyed getting Tommy into scrapes and 
 then leaving him to get out of them the best 
 he could. Tommy was forever sneaking about 
 the tent, and he was so impolitic in his choice 
 
 42 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 of his moment of action that he was usually 
 caught red-handed and cuffed. Though he 
 never succeeded in stealing half as much as 
 Jack, he came in for a great deal more enmity 
 from Fritz than all the rest of the team. Jack 
 used to approach Fritz gayly as Fritz sat with a 
 leg on either side of our little stove, turn his 
 coyote's head to one side, cock up his ears, and 
 assure Fritz of his friendship for a good cook 
 and his contempt for all such curs as Tommy. 
 He might go and come many times in this way 
 before Fritz's back was turned. When it was, 
 however, he seized his spoil and trotted away 
 in the businesslike manner of a dog who is do- 
 ing an errand for his master. At a safe distance, 
 he neatly dodged all missiles and smiled mock- 
 ingly back at the cook. When Tommy was 
 licked in the traces he howled for half an hour 
 and his tail did not ascend for the remainder 
 of the day. None of the other dogs would 
 make friends with so sour a fellow. Perhaps 
 he was only oversensitive and introspective, 
 and I do him wrong. I fear, however, that he 
 will be sent to the penitentiary at Forty Mile 
 for a long term one of these days. 
 
 Shorty, the end dog (wheel horse) of the 
 husky team, was born in Spitzbergen, where 
 
 43 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 dogs are so white that when they are on a 
 background of snow you know of their pres- 
 ence only by the black spots for their eyes and 
 a bigger black spot for their noses. An 
 equality in breadth and length gave Shorty his 
 name. Like some fat old gentlemen whom 
 we meet at the club, he was the more comical 
 because he was unconsciously so. He didn't 
 believe in being a martyr, and he always carried 
 his head so that one of his eyes was on Jack. 
 When the master was about to touch up Jack 
 and Tommy, Shorty would begin suddenly to 
 pull very hard. His legs were so short and his 
 body was so chunky that if the team turned a 
 sharp corner around a cake of ice he would 
 often roll over like a ball of fur ; or, in trying 
 to keep up he would slip and fall down a fissure, 
 hanging suspended by his collar while he looked 
 around at Jack, saying : 
 
 "Oh, I know I'm the snapper of the whip ! 
 What next?" 
 
 He blinked so oddly, there was such an ex- 
 pression of disgust in the very way in which he 
 lolled his tongue out, that you laughed at him 
 as you would at the old gentleman who finds 
 another club member in his favorite chair and 
 reading his favorite paper. 
 
 44 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 Tim, the larger of the two St. Bernards, 
 was a sober, phlegmatic dog of noble mien, 
 who was funny only when he ate so much por- 
 ridge after a hard day's work that he groaned 
 with pain. 
 
 ** You needn't look at me so reproachfully, 
 Tim," Jack would say, '' I know I'm to blame. 
 But I'd feel just as mean if I didn't feed you 
 all you wanted." 
 
 The St. Bernard is too high-spirited for the 
 work of a draught animal. At first Patsy 
 seemed the better dog of the two. But Patsy 
 wore himself out by fidgeting, and then it was 
 his turn to soldier while Tim did his work. 
 Toward the last they were in such bad shape 
 that we dared to put only fifty pounds on their 
 sled. 
 
 In the neighborhood of Five Fingers we met 
 a dozen stranded pilgrims whose desperate 
 efforts to reach Dawson in the previous autumn 
 had been put to naught by the summary ap- 
 proach of the arctic winter when they were 
 within a few days of their destination. They 
 had built cabins on the banks of the river, 
 wherever their boats had been inextricably 
 caught in a jam of ice, and settled down to the 
 prospect of playing checkers and fighting off 
 
 45 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 scurvy for eight months, until summer came. 
 Of those who were unsuccessful in the battle, 
 the most afflicted was an old forty-niner who 
 accepted with better grace than any of the 
 others a diet of spruce tea and rice, which he 
 hoped would undo the work of too much 
 bacon. A few prospect holes had been sunk 
 without any reward except '' colors," because, 
 as they explained, they were, in keeping with 
 their general ill luck, just outside of the gold 
 belt. For selfish as well as sentimental reasons 
 we were glad that these unfortunate fellows 
 were not more numerous. We had always to 
 tell them some of the news, and then to leave 
 their hospitality rather offended despite our 
 explanations that we could not afford to tarry 
 with them for a day's rest when the trail was 
 good. 
 
 At one of the cabins a boy of seventeen years 
 hobbled out to the bank to greet us. He and 
 his uncle had left Dawson for the coast in 
 December, drawing their own sleds. Hardship 
 had so affected his uncle's mind, as the story 
 was told to me, that to escape from the country 
 had become a brutal and selfish mania with 
 him. He forced his nephew, even at the point 
 of the revolver, it was said, to do all the work 
 
 46 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 of making and breaking camp. The boy was 
 so tired one night that he crawled under his 
 blankets without changing his moccasins, which 
 had become wet by the slush snow about the 
 fire. He awoke in the morning with his feet 
 frozen. When they were overtaken on the 
 trail by a man with a dog team, the next after- 
 noon, the boy, goaded on by his uncle, was 
 plodding along on legs which were frozen stiff 
 up to his knees, experiencing, he said, much in- 
 convenience but no pain. The fellow-traveller 
 gave him a ride behind the dogs to the nearest 
 cabin, where, later, a doctor on his way to the 
 coast found amputation necessary to save the 
 boy's life. As for the uncle, he delayed only a 
 few hours, and hastened on his journey more 
 energetically than ever. 
 
 A little hunting had been done by the 
 stranded pilgrims, but with no success. We 
 had hoped to obtain some venison from the 
 Indians, but though we passed many of their 
 deserted camps between the Hootalinqua and 
 the Pelly, we came to only one that was occu- 
 pied. Here two families were sitting around 
 a small fire with their backs protected on all 
 sides from the wind by a wall of brush about 
 waist high. We secured a few pounds of ex- 
 
 47 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 tremely tough steak in exchange for some corn- 
 meal. A small boy who looked quite like a 
 young Jap knew a few English words and had 
 the gift of making comprehensible gestures. 
 He explained that he had heard his father's gun 
 go " boom ! " far off on the mountain-side, a few 
 hours before. No chaffing could shake his 
 confidence in his father, whose name was 
 Chook, as a great hunter. One boom, he told 
 us by signs, and the moose or caribou always 
 tumbled over into the snow. The temptation 
 to wait and see if Chook would return with 
 fresh moose or caribou meat was great, but we 
 resisted it. When, however, we were at the 
 other end of the semicircle formed by the curve 
 of the river beyond the camp, a cry from the 
 bank showed us Chook, who had hastened 
 through the woods by a trail known to himself, 
 bearing a fine caribou steak and a piece of 
 liver. With him, besides the little boy we had 
 seen, was an elder brother who had been out 
 to learn the way in which Daddy crept up 
 quietly until he was within a few steps of his 
 prey. Chook wanted sugar in exchange, but 
 we had none to spare. Finally his obduracy 
 was overcome and he accepted corn-meal. 
 Long after we had passed on, he stood watch- 
 
 48 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 ing us, and presumably he was grinning over 
 his bargain. We enjoyed part of the steak; 
 Jack, the pup, stole the rest with such finesse 
 that we forgave him. 
 
 When we had passed one point which we 
 recognized as a name on the map, we looked 
 forward from day to day, as we lessened the 
 distance, until we should arrive at another. In 
 camp we compared our opinions of how many 
 miles we had made that day, and soon our 
 estimates became surprisingly accurate. After 
 leaving Five Fingers, all our thoughts were 
 bent on reaching Fort Selkirk, where the Pelly, 
 a great river of itself, joins the Yukon. The 
 trail for this distance was better than for the 
 fifty miles that had preceded it and the colder 
 weather made sledging better. Moreover, our 
 new plan of shorter hours and harder work was 
 succeeding admirably. 
 
 Long before placer mining was thought of 
 in Alaska or in the British Northwest Terri- 
 tory, representatives of the fur companies were 
 stationed at Fort Selkirk. The present post 
 is across the river from the upper ramparts of 
 the Yukon's bank, whose towering walls of 
 rock resemble the walls of old-time forts, even 
 to the embrasures. In a break in the ramparts 
 
 49 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 is the mouth of the Pelly, which is to the 
 Yukon what the Missouri is to the Mississippi. 
 
 Mr. Pettit, the trader at Selkirk, had only 
 Indians for companions. The aspect of this 
 little man's loneliness was heightened by his 
 slight form and his pallor, so out of place in a 
 country where bare existence is supposed to 
 demand so much vigor. In summer he busied 
 himself with a little garden, which was an ab- 
 sorbing occupation because upon its success 
 there possibly depended immunity from the 
 dreaded scurvy. In winter he sat by his stove 
 smoking when he was not sleeping. Watching 
 the Indians go through the ritual of the Rus- 
 sian Church in their original manner, or dance 
 around a dying fellow to keep off the evil spirit 
 of death, were diversions which must by this 
 time have lost their novelty for him. He had 
 had nothing to sell for more than a year. This 
 was a great disappointment to his customers 
 who were short of those great requirements of 
 aboriginal happiness, tobacco, sugar, and gay- 
 colored clothes. 
 
 While we were at Pelly, the Indians became 
 excited over the arrival of news that one of 
 the tribe, Ulick, had shot ten caribou and two 
 moose, '' one sleep " — or more than a day's 
 
 50 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 travel — down the river. We made careful 
 calculations as to how much tobacco we could 
 spare, and kept a sharp lookout for Ulick, 
 whom we met with his family dragging some 
 of the moose back to camp. For forty-five 
 cents' worth of tobacco we secured thirty 
 pounds of steak for ourselves and the dogs. 
 To offers of as high as a dollar a pound for 
 more, he merely made the reply : 
 
 '' Got heap money ! Want ' baccy ! '" 
 
 Your husky dog is no vegetarian. Once we 
 realized how much additional pulling-power 
 our team could get out of a little fresh meat 
 we denied ourselves for them. 
 
 The height and the character of the moun- 
 tains towering over our heads told us that we 
 were coming into the region of the Rockies. 
 Every turn of the river brought into view a 
 panorama of low wooded islands made in later 
 times by a change of current ; of islands that 
 were Cyclopean masses thrown up by chaos, 
 and the nesting-places of eagles ; of mountains 
 on either shore, whose strata seemed to have 
 been kneaded and stirred when soft as douo^h, 
 and afterward, upon solidifying, to have been 
 rent by convulsions of the earth's crust. 
 
 But one was too busy with the handles of 
 51 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 the sled fully to enjoy scenery. You only 
 knew that the vista seemed to be frowning 
 upon the impudence of you and your sled and 
 dogs breaking in upon great solitudes. Thank- 
 fully, the weather was more in our favor and 
 the trail was harder, as it had been between the 
 Big Salmon and Pelly, and not so sliding. At 
 times it was as smooth as a skating-rink for 
 a few hundred yards where it was protected 
 from the sun by the shadow of the mountains 
 and the forests ; again, there was glare ice, 
 where we might ride for a little distance, jest- 
 ing merrily about private equipages and driv- 
 ing-parks ; and, again, we drove flocks of wild 
 ducks away from open places, making us re- 
 gret that we had only revolvers with us. Far 
 over our heads against the background of the 
 blue sky we saw great flocks of wild swans and 
 wild geese moving northward in stately pro- 
 cession, reminding us that summer was near at 
 hand. At 2 a.m. the thermometer was at from 
 10 to 20 degrees below zero; at noon, 80 de- 
 grees above, and the crust of dawn had become 
 like porridge. I had one ear blistered by the 
 frost and the other by the sun in the same day. 
 But we little minded these extremes ; for the 
 trail continued to be good, until one morn- 
 
 52 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 ing we arrived at the cluster of cabins called 
 Stewart City, at the mouth of the Stewart 
 River, where we rested for a day. Of the in- 
 mates of the cabins we bought enough rice to 
 piece out the rations of our dogs. 
 
 A mile out of Stewart we met Anders, of 
 Bay City, Michigan, who was drawing his own 
 sled as he swung along in great strides in the 
 company of an elderly man who had one dog. 
 An idea for making a fortune had occurred to 
 him and to carry it out he had started for 
 Dyea at once, regardless of the season of the 
 year. He was *' going outside " to bring in the 
 stock for a poultry farm which he proposed to 
 establish on an island near Dawson. 
 
 '* Fresh eggs will bring ten dollars a dozen 
 any time," he said, *' and a spring chicken as 
 much. I ain't going to let anybody get ahead 
 of me, you bet. I've got a side of bacon and 
 a sack of flour. I'll sleep by day and go with- 
 out a blanket. I'll make it to Five Fingers 
 with my sled and then I'll take what's left of 
 my grub on my back and skin along the shore 
 till I get to the lakes, where I can get some 
 more grub off the boats that are coming in, 
 snake a canoe somewhere, and paddle up to 
 Linderman." 
 
 53 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 I saw him in Dawson two weeks after the 
 pilgrims* flotilla began to arrive. The ice in 
 the river had broken before he reached Five 
 Fingers. He had climbed over mountains 
 and beaten his way through underbrush until 
 he sprained his ankle. Then he crawled to 
 a ledge of rock overlooking the stream and 
 waited until a pilgrim in a passing boat saw 
 the red bandanna which he waved as a signal 
 of distress. 
 
 ''And I guess Dawson won't have turkey 
 for Thanksgiving this year," he added. '* You 
 remember the old feller that was with me ? 
 We got separated. He couldn't keep up with 
 my gait. Well, our boat passed his dog run- 
 ning up and down the shore howling, but we 
 couldn't find a sign of him. I guess he was 
 drowned." 
 
 It took us six days to make the remaining 
 seventy-five miles to Dawson, though now 
 our outfit, including bedding and kit-bags, did 
 not weigh more than two hundred pounds. 
 The weather at night had suddenly moderated, 
 as if the arctic winter, after a spasmodic re- 
 sistance, had given way entirely to the tropical 
 summer. Henceforth, it was needless to put 
 up our tent, and we slept and cooked entirely 
 
 54 
 
I 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 in the open, drying our wet footwear by the 
 heat of the sun in the late afternoon. 
 
 Starting at 2 a.m. with the first h'ght, we 
 plodded straight ahead through the snow up to 
 our knees, until the dogs gave out. We fol- 
 lowed the trail where we could ; followed 
 it until it led us to the flowing river, and 
 then we made a detour around the open place. 
 The snow-shoes which we had brought thus 
 far without having once put them on, now be- 
 came invaluable in making a path by slow and 
 arduous tramping, as monotonous as the beat- 
 ing of time, but a little more tiring, I assure 
 you. Without the relief of the color of the 
 dogs or of the man in front of you upon which 
 to rest your eyes, little red spots would dance 
 in the glare on the snow even through heavy 
 green glasses. Often the rest of the party 
 had to wait while Jack, who never tired, went 
 on ahead to see if, in case v/e should go around 
 this or that island, we should be obliged to re- 
 trace our steps. Again, in little side channels 
 where the water was deep only in a freshet, we 
 hitched all the dogs to one sled at a time 
 and they dragged it over the sandy bottom and 
 up on the other side, where we were likely to 
 strike out on an old Indian trail bare of snow, 
 
 55 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 and to have to lift the sleds from side to 
 side to avoid saplings. 
 
 It was our boast that only once had we un- 
 packed the sleds except to make camp. This 
 was at Five Fingers, where we had to carry 
 our baggage piece by piece up an ascent of 
 forty feet. Even there we had sent the dogs 
 up with the small sled on bare ground. But 
 now we could lift the sleds and contents ; or 
 if the bank or ledge of rocks which we wished 
 to gain was very precipitate, we could slide 
 them up on skids. Dude, the old leader, 
 would crawl up by himself without a whine, 
 like a true soldier. Jack threw the other 
 huskies up bodily, and the clumsy St. Ber- 
 nards were pushed and pulled and coaxed up. 
 
 Just when we had to undergo the greatest 
 physical labor, and the greatest strain from 
 climate, our food-supply, so astonishing had 
 been our appetites, had dwindled to flour and 
 bad bacon, and we had remaining only a pipe 
 of tobacco apiece, which was religiously saved 
 for our last camp. We missed most keenly 
 our chocolate, of which we had eaten half a 
 pound apiece a day. With a slab of it for 
 luncheon, and only two flapjacks and a slice 
 of bacon, we were not hungry again for five 
 
 56 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 or six hours. Consume all the flapjacks and 
 bacon that we could without suffering from 
 that excess of quantity which is the foe of 
 exercise, in three or four hours our stomachs 
 would be calling for more. 
 
 On the afternoon of the fourth day out 
 from Stewart, when the dogs pulled up after 
 one of the rushes they were never too tired to 
 make on scenting a camp, we looked up to see 
 some figures standing on a pile of logs which 
 they were cutting for a raft of timber for a 
 Dawson saw-mill. 
 
 " How are ye ? " they called. ** Goin' to 
 town?" 
 
 We had reached the suburbs ! 
 
 ** Well," replied Jack, ** we've been thinkin' 
 some of it. How far is it ? " 
 
 '*'Bout twenty miles. But you won't make 
 it. The ice is likely to go out any minute." 
 
 On the day following we passed still another 
 camp of rafters, who said that the river was 
 open in front of Dawson. They advised us to 
 make camp and accompany them when navi- 
 tion opened. 
 
 ** We'll be old inhabitants by that time," said 
 Jack. 
 
 Every creek flowing into the river was a 
 
 57 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 torrent, eating up the ice and flooding its sur- 
 face. We could see that the river was rising, 
 which was a sure sign that its days were few. 
 However, we were confident of reaching our 
 destination on the morrow, though we had to 
 desert our sleds, put some flapjacks and slices 
 of hacon in our pockets, and climb over the 
 mountain which hid " town " from view. 
 
 Our last camp was on a wooded island 
 where some prospector had built a brush- 
 house. Jack's bonfire, especially large in 
 honor of the occasion, extended to this house, 
 and we thought it rather good fun that we had 
 to save our bedding from the flames. But our 
 jubilation was not unmixed with sadness. We 
 should not make another journey together, and 
 we had been good comrades, always venting 
 our anger, when it insisted upon expression, 
 upon our sleds, and never blaming one another. 
 
 Our hair and beards were long and un- 
 kempt ; our trousers were the color of ma- 
 hogany ; but we felt strong enough to go up 
 the side of a mountain on the run, and we had 
 been so near to nature that we could truly 
 claim her for next-door neighbor. 
 
 In the future, the numerous police stations 
 built in the summer (1898) will furnish food 
 
 58 
 
ON THE TRAIL 
 
 for travellers and their dogs. Already, there- 
 fore, our journey in the manner that we made 
 it is a thing of the past, and, accordingly, one 
 feels as he looks back on it a little of the pride 
 of the pioneer. 
 
 '' We can sleep as long as we want, to-mor- 
 row," said Fritz, pulling his robe over him, 
 ''and we won't care whether it is going to 
 freeze at night or not." 
 
 *' And we won't have wet feet," Jack added. 
 *' I guess it's been twenty days since they 
 wasn't sopping 'fore we'd been out two hours, 
 and that slush does feel rather clammy when 
 the sun's blisterin' overhead." 
 
 Ten miles in ten hours was the record of 
 our last day's travel, over the worst trail we 
 had encountered. At dusk we rounded an 
 island, and to our right, on a small flat across 
 the river (which here had been opened by the 
 current of the Klondyke), we saw the cluster 
 of cabins which was the pilgrim's Mecca. 
 There was glare ice, however, above the Klon- 
 dyke across to the little suburb of Dawson, 
 Klondyke City. For the first time in many 
 days we rode on our sleds, finishing our jour- 
 ney in triumph. 
 
 '* Don't you know that it's too late to travel 
 
 59 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 on the river?" asked the foremost man of the 
 little crowd that came out to meet us. 
 
 ** Yes," replied Jack, " and we've just made 
 up our minds to quit." 
 
 Four days later, as if it had broken away all 
 along the shores at the same moment, the ice 
 moved on toward the sea like a great white 
 procession, halted now and then by a jam, but 
 not for long. 
 
 " It's a pleasure to see that trail go by," was 
 Jack's comment, as he watched it from our 
 cabin-door. ** I only wish I might pay it back 
 in its own kind by tripping it up a few times." 
 
 60 
 
Ill 
 
 DAWSON 
 
 Social Aspects of Dawson — Cornering the Tinned Food 
 Market — Cheechawkos and Old-Timers in the Early 
 Days. 
 
 AT this season of the year the inhabitants 
 of Dawson were passing out of the chrys- 
 alis of fur caps into soiled, broad-brimmed 
 hats resurrected from cabin-shelves ; out of 
 winter clothing generally into what remained 
 of their last summer's clothing. Along the 
 thawing bog called the main street, littered and 
 odorous from sanitary neglect, were two rows 
 of saloons and gambling-halls, with mining- 
 brokers' offices and the stores of shrewd specu- 
 lators in food-supplies, who always had one 
 can of condensed milk for $2.50, one can of 
 butter for $5, and one pound of sugar for $1.50, 
 and assured you that they were the last in the 
 country. To look out across the flat toward 
 the mountains was to see scattered cabins and 
 piles of tin cans, which at once let one into the 
 
 61 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 culinary secrets of an isolated community com- 
 posed largely of men. At the restaurants, 
 bacon and beans and coffee cost $2.50. 
 
 For a time in the winter in fear of famine 
 the well-to-do hoarded food as they hoard gold 
 in a financial panic, and the restaurants were 
 closed because supplies were not procurable at 
 prices that made catering profitable. Then, a 
 fifty-pound sack of flour sold for as high as 
 $100; but at the approach of spring the little 
 capitalists who had planned to sell their *' cor- 
 ners " at great profit were glad enough to dis- 
 pose of such surplus as they had beyond their 
 own needs at a loss. To them the departure of 
 hundreds of mouths which otherwise would 
 have been fed out of Dawson's granary was as 
 great a disappointment as a report that Hun- 
 gary's wheat crop would greatly exceed expec- 
 tations is to the bulls on the Chicago Ex- 
 change. All of the luxuries and many of the 
 necessities of life were scarce ; but, withal, 
 there was quite enough of bacon, beans, and 
 flour to have satisfied the appetites of the 
 whole community for a month after supplies 
 arrived. According to the philosophy of the 
 old-timers, there is never any danger of a man's 
 
 starving as long as he will look ahead a little. 
 
 62 
 
DAWSON 
 
 So easy is it to sleep and so little does one eat 
 when one is not working that he can live on a 
 pound of food a day, if need be, and take the 
 remainder of his nourishment in slumber. On 
 the other hand, vigorous labor in winter de- 
 mands at least three pounds a day, and it is 
 upon this basis that estimates have always been 
 made in the valley of the Yukon. 
 
 With a tiny can of cocoa, which I pounced 
 upon in a store as if it were an Elzevir in a 
 junk-heap, and a few staples bought at extrava- 
 gant prices, we were able to prepare a superior 
 meal in the cabin that I had leased. But this 
 was not until we had slept gloriously for six- 
 teen hours. There remained the problem of a 
 bath, which was serious, as the one bath-house 
 in Dawson was closed for repairs. I solved it 
 legitimately, if uncomfortably, in the wooden 
 tub which was lent to me by a neighbor. 
 
 The saloons had only a substitute for whis- 
 key, of home manufacture. The dance-halls 
 were not open. All the men whose dust and 
 presence would make the camp lively were at 
 the mines — or " up the creeks," as the saying 
 goes in Dawson — preparing for the "clean-up." 
 
 In winter and in summer the trail leads up 
 the Klondyke to the mouth of Bonanza, three 
 
 63 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 miles from Dawson, and thence up Bonanza 
 to the working-claims, about three miles far- 
 ther on. In the spring, when the currents are 
 swollen, you must go over a high mountain by 
 a path in the soft snow. If you have a pack, 
 this is hard work. On the way I met a blue- 
 faced old fellow — by his look if not by his limp 
 he had the scurvy — who promptly put me in 
 my proper social status. 
 
 " Are ye a Cheechawko ? " he asked. 
 
 ** I don't know, I'm sure." 
 
 " Well, then, ye are, and the river must 'a' 
 broke. Any man's a Cheechawko until he's 
 been in the country when the ice goes out. In 
 the old days we could lick the Cheechawkos 
 into shape ; larn 'em to leave their latch-strings 
 out fur a passin' stranger when they was away 
 from hum, and larn 'em to eat what they wanted 
 and to use the best blanket in a cabin, but to 
 lug nothin' away. Fifty thousand of 'em, they 
 say — clerks and farmers and dudes. They're 
 too many fur us. Civilization's here, and it's 
 a case of locking up yer dust after this. But, 
 young man, ye can't be an old-timer, never ! 
 Ye can't be an old-timer, 'less ye've lived in the 
 camps in the old days when a man was a man 
 and his neighbor's brother." 
 
 64 
 
DAWSON 
 
 And without giving me time to reply to his 
 little lecture, he hobbled on toward the hospital. 
 
 Cheechawko is the Indian word for stranger, 
 or, more literally, tenderfoot, which has come 
 into general use in the Klondyke ; and toward 
 the Cheechawko, bringing in the more penuri- 
 ous ways of the outside world, along with igno- 
 rance of mining, the old-timer feels a genuine 
 resentment. I was glad of the opportunity to 
 see the veterans ere the recruits had arrived. 
 
 65 
 
IV 
 
 THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 The Beginning of Mining in Alaska — Forty Mile Creek — 
 Canadian and American Deposits — The Largest Log- 
 Cabin Town in the World — Life of the First Advent- 
 urers — The Superfluity of Six-Shooters — Leaving 
 the Latch-Strings Out — The Way of the Trans- 
 gressors — Indian Charley and his Nugget. 
 
 A LITTLE history of placer mining in the 
 Yukon valley, at this turn of my narrative, 
 will be of importance, I think, in making what 
 follows more comprehensible. It was early in 
 the eighties, if not before, that the first pros- 
 pectors, armed with Indian tales, faith, and a 
 "gold pan," packed their supplies to the shores 
 of the Lewes lakes over the passes which were 
 the means of communication between the 
 Indians of the coast and those of the interior. 
 They followed the ice out of the lakes and 
 down the river into a practically unexplored 
 country, panning out of the gravel at the 
 mouth of each tributary. 
 
 At first, these and the other brave spirits who 
 
 66 
 

THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 were encouraged to follow their example ard- 
 uously poled their boats back up-stream in 
 September, with the result of their summer's 
 labor, to spend the winter in one of the towns 
 of the quartz-mining region in southeastern 
 Alaska or in the Pacific Coast States. Some 
 had three or four hundred dollars ; others, who 
 had impatiently disregarded certain ''pay" on 
 the bars of the tributaries and had prospected 
 in the hope of making a great ''strike," re- 
 turned with little or nothing. 
 
 Soon they began to take in enough supplies 
 to last them through the winter, and to build 
 cabins for their protection. A little settlement 
 sprang up on the site of the " diggings " of 
 Forty Mile Creek. All of the rich deposits 
 thus far have been found not on the tributaries 
 of the Yukon but on the tributaries of the 
 tributaries. (The wealth of the far-famed Klon- 
 dyke is not on the Klondyke River but on 
 Eldorado and Bonanza, which flow into it.) 
 So the next progressive step was a discovery 
 which led to the working of the frozen ground 
 in the valleys of the numerous little streams 
 tributary to Forty Mile, by stripping off the 
 dirt as fast as the very hot sun of the long days 
 of the arctic summer thawed it. This process, 
 
 67 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 however, was feasible only when the '* pay- 
 dirt " was near to the surface, and the season of 
 activity was still restricted to four or five 
 months of the year. 
 
 As the prospectors moved on down the 
 river, gradually widening the circle of their 
 labors and their experience, deposits con- 
 siderably richer than those of the tributaries of 
 Forty Mile were found on the tributaries of 
 Birch Creek in American territory. Here, for 
 the first time, an innovation, which did not 
 appeal to everybody, made it feasible to work 
 twelve months in the year. An energetic man 
 sank a shaft to bedrock with fires. Then he 
 drifted out his '' pay-dirt " in the same manner 
 and piled it in dumps on the surface to be 
 sluiced out in summer. By the autumn of 
 1896, when the great discovery of Bonanza 
 Creek was made. Circle City was said to be 
 the largest log-cabin town in the world, and 
 from twenty-five hundred to three thousand 
 white men dwelt in the Yukon valley. 
 
 Experience in placer mining counted for 
 little in a region where conditions were so 
 different from those of the Pacific Coast 
 States. There was no sprinkling of capitalists 
 or mining engineers among those robust 
 
 68 
 
THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 pilgrims of the early days. Many of the hard- 
 ships which they endured are already a mem- 
 ory. They were cheered in their combat 
 with nature by no such tales as lured on the 
 Cheechawkos of 1897-98. The majority of 
 them came from the frontiers of the United 
 States ; a smaller part, generally of French 
 descent, from the frontiers of Canada. All 
 were peculiarly the product of the Anglo- 
 Saxon bent for overcoming obstacles. Not in- 
 frequently there were fugitives from justice, 
 who, having the inclination and the energy to 
 undergo great physical trials rather than serve a 
 term in prison, and learning a lesson in man- 
 hood by bitter retrospection, have often become 
 heroic pioneers. More numerous than the in- 
 habitants of the old centres of civilization would 
 suppose were those recluses who are ever seek- 
 ing lonely refuges out of touch with the advance 
 posts of organized society. 
 
 There was no prospect, especially when no 
 " big strikes " had been reported, to attract 
 the idle and the dissolute who infest similar 
 settlements in more hospitable countries. Re- 
 lieved of the parasitic class and being inter- 
 dependent in isolation from the outside world 
 under the most rigorous conditions for eight 
 
 69 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 months in the year, their inhabitants, despite 
 the " pasts " of some of them, made Circle City 
 and Forty Mile the most peaceable of mining 
 camps. Captain Constantine, of the British 
 Northwest Mounted Police, with a few men, 
 had plenary powers at Forty Mile, while Circle 
 City was nominally governed by a United 
 States Commissioner and a United States 
 Marshal. 
 
 All the white women in both communities 
 could be counted on the fingers of two hands. 
 Mrs. Constantine, the wives of a few mission- 
 aries and of a few leading men, had come in 
 on steamers up the river in summer to join 
 their husbands. Half a dozen half-breed wom- 
 en, with more or less of the blood of Russian 
 fur traders in their veins, composed the demi- 
 monde of either camp. Full-blooded squaws 
 performed the household duties in some cabins 
 for a civilized lord and master. But the 
 ** squaw man " was the exception. In no part 
 of the world where isolated white men live 
 among aborigines was the man who had a na- 
 tive mistress held in greater disrespect than 
 here. 
 
 As a rule, the miners did their own washing 
 and mending. Their amusements were card- 
 
 70 
 
THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 playing and checker-playing. The climate 
 seemed to exercise a softening effect upon bel- 
 licose natures, and even intoxication seldom 
 carried quarrels beyond a dispute of words. 
 Whoever struck the first blow had the con- 
 sensus of opinion of the camp against him. 
 
 *' We've got enough to do fighting Alaska," 
 was a saying which sententiously expressed 
 the general feeling, *' without fighting one 
 another." 
 
 To the new-comer it was hinted that a six- 
 shooter, which fiction makes the inseparable 
 companion of all men in a new placer mining 
 camp, was a superfluity that would keep him 
 out of trouble only when he kept it at all times 
 hanging on a peg in his cabin. Its weight 
 alone was equal to two days' rations in a 
 country where the prospector had to dispense 
 with his helpmeet, the mule or the burro, and 
 carry his grub for a tour on his back. There- 
 fore, arms were never carried unless there was 
 a chance of meeting with game. 
 
 The essence of the ''free miners' law" was 
 being on the '' squar'," which, after all, is a 
 rough equivalent of the brotherhood of man. 
 Between the disputants as to the ownership of 
 a claim the " miners' meeting " decided which 
 
 71 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 one was in the right. All offenders were 
 brought before the bar of their fellows. A 
 man accused of theft, after an examination of 
 witnesses, was acquitted or convicted by the 
 holding up of hands. If guilty, he was, ac- 
 cording to the circumstances, either warned 
 to leave the country for good — no slight penal- 
 ty in midwinter with only the hospitality of 
 Indians to depend upon — or else ostracism 
 was postponed pending good behavior. " Min- 
 ers' meeting law " is unscientific and rarely 
 commendable, but here it served its purpose 
 well because its methods made it so seldom 
 required. 
 
 Under the force of self-interest a universal 
 good-will prevailed. Whatever a miner had 
 — perhaps the increment of a summer's earn- 
 ings which was to pay for another year's sup- 
 plies — he kept in tomato cans on the table of 
 his cabin with impunity. When he went away 
 from home on a journey to some other creek 
 he left his latch-string out. On the very even- 
 ing of his absence, while his cabin was oc- 
 cupied by another, he was, perhaps, sleeping 
 in someone else's without an invitation. By 
 the unwritten law of the land he enjoyed 
 whatever luxuries of food and rest the cabin 
 
 72 
 
THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 afforded ; but, likewise by the unwritten law 
 of the land, he washed any dishes that he had 
 used and put them and all other things that 
 he had disturbed back where they belonged, 
 folded the blankets on the bunk, cut firewood 
 in place of that which he had burned, and laid 
 kindlings by the stove ready to make warmth 
 and cheer for the owner when he should return, 
 cold and weary. 
 
 Cheechawkos who came down the river in 
 the spring in their rough boats at first, through 
 ignorance, were often transgressors of the un- 
 written laws. But so few arrived at a time 
 that the majority were soon able to convince 
 them of the folly of courting trouble for them- 
 selves. Anyone with a bad record could not 
 obtain favors or a loan when he needed it. 
 After he had consumed the supplies which he 
 had brought into the country with him, he 
 must rely upon the transportation companies, 
 established to meet the demand of the new 
 settlements, whose river steamers connected 
 with ocean-going vessels at the island of St. 
 Michael in Norton Sound. When a man 
 had been unfortunate in his summer's work, 
 a reputation for probity would secure from the 
 companies a year's outfit on a simple promise 
 
 73 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 to pay. In treating generously the real pros- 
 pector who sought new fields, they only had 
 an eye to their own interests in the develop- 
 ment of the country. Every canned and pre- 
 served delicacy was included in a year's sup- 
 plies, costing from $500 to $600. Canned 
 plum pudding was a treat for the holidays ; 
 and more than one miner ate pdtd de foie gras 
 for the first time in Circle City or Forty Mile. 
 These luxuries, however, were no substitutes 
 for fresh fruits and fresh vegetables. 
 
 The flat-bottomed river steamers continued 
 on their course until the ice in the river led 
 them to seek a slough or side channel for 
 safety, all hands preparing to spend the winter 
 housed up on board. Then no more Chee- 
 chawkos' boats could arrive, and the camps 
 were as completely separated from the out- 
 side world as a whaler caught in the ice of 
 Bering Sea. To all men, including the re- 
 cluses, a "pardner" was essential. For the 
 recluses were recluses from civilization and not 
 from fellow-men of their own tastes ; and no 
 one, except a few of the most perverse, under- 
 took single-handed to put up a cabin or to live 
 in it alone. 
 
 The '' town " was on the river bank at the 
 74 
 
THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 most accessible point to the creeks whose 
 wealth was responsible for its existence. Its 
 cabins clustered around the commercial com- 
 panies' stores and the saloons. To one side 
 was a camp of Indians and the mission station 
 which ministered to their spiritual wants and, 
 following the paths of diplomacy, to the spir- 
 itual wants of the miners — upon request. Fuel 
 was brought from the hill-sides and food was 
 taken to the cabins on the creeks by teams of 
 husky dogs. 
 
 When the winter settled down in serene 
 triumph in December there was not even the 
 falling of snow to disturb the calm atmos- 
 phere. The fine white particles under foot, 
 which seemed as sharp as powdered glass to 
 the touch, were precipitated invisibly, like 
 frost. They glistened on the mountain-sides 
 without a breath of air to stir them. In the 
 few hours of gray light out of the twenty-four, 
 men welcomed the sound of their own voices, 
 or even the howl of their dogs, to break the 
 silence which was the fit companion of the dry, 
 biting cold. At night they forgave the still 
 and merciless panorama of the day as they 
 watched out of their cabin-windows the play 
 of the Northern Lights, in which nature has 
 
 75 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 furnished for the eyes a greater treat than is 
 the breaking of surf for the ears. 
 
 With the coming of spring, when the sun 
 mounted so rapidly in the heavens, every man 
 had his opinion and his reasons for it as to the 
 exact date when the ice should go out of the 
 Yukon. After this — the greatest event of the 
 year — had taken place, all eyes kept a lookout 
 up-stream for the first pine-colored boat that 
 should dart around the bend with the rapidity 
 of the current. The Cheechawko was sur- 
 rounded by a little crowd which asked him 
 about the result of the previous November's 
 elections, or if France and Germany had gone 
 to war as indicated by an August paper which 
 the community had been reading for eight 
 months. 
 
 As a rule, the early arrivals had been in the 
 country before. They knew the channels and 
 the currents of the river, and could resist the 
 temptation of stopping to pan the gravel of 
 the bars in search of colors, for the old-timers 
 had lonfT since concluded that the travel-worn 
 particles of dust to be found at the mouths of 
 all of the tributaries of the Yukon which are 
 in the so-called gold belt, were vagrants and 
 not the advance guard of a floating pilgrim- 
 
 76 
 
THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 age. They had poled weary miles in their 
 long boats and carried packs for wearier ones 
 without finding at the head-waters of the tribu- 
 taries, which were named by them and still 
 await accurate mapping by geographers, any 
 original deposits. The shallow bedrock in the 
 neighborhood of Forty Mile put the original 
 deposits there within reach of the summer's 
 sun and the superficial investigation of the 
 hurrying prospector, and opened the way to 
 the discovery of richer original deposits at 
 Circle City at a slightly greater depth of bed- 
 rock. 
 
 So the miners had concluded that the next 
 great strike, following the progress of develop- 
 ment down the river, would be made below 
 Circle City. On account of an Indian's keen 
 glance the contrary happened, and they re- 
 traced their footsteps to find fortunes at a depth 
 of thirty feet under soil whose surface they 
 had trod before. The sharp-eyed Indian was 
 a brother-in-law of *' Siawash George," and 
 '' Siawash George " was an outcast, whose 
 nickname was given to him by his fellow white 
 men. The Siawashes are one of the lowest 
 orders of the American Indians, and the old- 
 timers, so largely men from the Pacific Coast, 
 
 77 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 use Siawash both as a noun and as an adjective 
 to signify contempt. One of the first white 
 pilgrims to cross the passes, Cormac, was now 
 the father of three or four half-breed children- 
 He had planned that his marriage to a prin- 
 cess of the tribe would be the stepping-stone 
 of his ambition to become chief of the Sticks. 
 In the autumn of 1896 he and his family and 
 retainers were encamped at the mouth of the 
 Klondyke, gathering from the land and the 
 water, according to aboriginal custom but with 
 modern riffles and hooks, their winter supply of 
 provender. 
 
 The Klondyke is one of the best rivers in 
 the neighborhood for fish, much better than 
 the Indian River, which flows into the Yukon 
 between thirty and forty miles above it. At 
 the summit of the water-shed between the 
 Indian and the Klondyke is a great mountain, 
 which, from its shape, the miners have named 
 The Dome. In the snows of its sides six 
 creeks have their origin, three flowing into 
 either stream. The longest of these is sixteen 
 miles. They wind through beds of black 
 muck, ranging from fifty to two hundred and 
 fifty yards in breadth, which lie between steep 
 embankments. It is presumed that the em- 
 
 78 
 

THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 bankments are the walls of an ancient river 
 channel. They are indented only by the 
 gulches cut by tributaries which once were 
 mighty but now have dwindled to little tor- 
 rents which flourish only with the first warmth 
 of spring or after a heavy rain in summer. 
 The great heat of June, July, and August drew 
 out of the muck with a growth of tropical ra- 
 pidity a rank grass upon which the moose fed 
 in peace, fattening his sides, made lean by 
 winter's privations. 
 
 Here " Injun Sharley," as he called himself, 
 came to look for moose, and here he found in- 
 stead, as he was crossing the first tributary of 
 the Klondyke at a point where its bending 
 course had dug a niche out of the side-hill, a 
 glistening nugget of gold. According to all of 
 the preconceived ideas of the placer mining 
 prospectors, no creeks in the region were so un- 
 promising as these. Those few prospectors 
 who had tramped up this valley, finding a few 
 colors in the shoals made by washing the earth 
 of the embankment, had passed them by with 
 the ever-ready expression of the country : 
 '' Oh, well, you can find colors anywhere." 
 If the turn of the creek had not washed one 
 stray nugget as well as stray colors out of a 
 
 79 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 bench which no one found worth working two 
 years after discovery, the moose might still be 
 feeding undisturbed in the valleys of Eldorado 
 and Bonanza creeks, which are now as expres- 
 sive of man's handiwork as the rear of a row of 
 tenement houses, and certain unhappy news- 
 paper correspondents would not have missed 
 the Spanish-American War. 
 
 There is no reason to believe that '* Siawash 
 George," personally, had any great confidence 
 in the ''strike." Rather — after having staked 
 creek claims for himself and ''Injun Sharley" 
 — he thought it worth advertising, when adver- 
 tising was so cheap because of the expert 
 canoists and good pedestrians in his family. 
 He was further assisted in spreading the news 
 by Joe La Due, another " squaw man," who 
 has been erroneously called Father of the Klon- 
 dyke, just as " Siawash George," and not "In- 
 jun Sharley," has been called its discoverer. 
 La Due staked out a town-site on the flat 
 which had been formed in the course of time 
 by the alluvial deposits of the Klondyke at its 
 mouth. He was fond of "booms," and as a 
 part of his plan of promoting his latest boom 
 he offered lots for five dollars apiece to all who 
 would stake claims on the new creeks. Neither 
 
 80 
 
THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 he nor *' Siawash George " had much to lose 
 and they might gain a great deal if shafts were 
 sunk to bedrock with fires after the plan that 
 had lately come into vogue at Circle City. 
 
 When an Indian arrived at Forty Mile and 
 then at Circle City with a tale out of all pro- 
 portion to the actual size of the nugget that 
 "Injun Sharley" had found, the miners re- 
 ceived it with that garlic cynicism which has its 
 natural abiding-place in the unkempt beards of 
 hardened frontiersmen. They had become so 
 used to strikes with no foundation except an 
 irresponsible imagination, as nominally to be- 
 lieve in nothing that a man said about any find 
 he had made. So they told the Indian that he 
 was a liar pure and simple, who had been 
 primed by an ambitious brother-in-law. The 
 Indian had been told to expect this reply and 
 was not the least disturbed in mind by it. But 
 no miner acts upon his convictions in such a 
 matter. He usually hurries off to the reported 
 scene of the find because, after all, **mebbe 
 there might be somethin' in it." But such 
 were the reputations of Joe La Due and Cor- 
 mac that many of the earlier pioneers refused 
 to budge. Their superior wisdom was as un- 
 fortunate for them as absence from the settle- 
 
 8i 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 ments was for those at work on the creeks. 
 The two or three hundred, lounging in the 
 saloons and the stores or resting in their cabins, 
 who made for the mouth of the Klondyke in the 
 mood of men who are playing a joke on them- 
 selves, became rich. 
 
 There were not enough claims on the dis- 
 covery creek, Bonanza, for all of them, so the 
 later arrivals, just for the sake of staking some- 
 thing, contemptuously staked a tributary of 
 Bonanza, which they called in their phrase a 
 *'pup." Then there was naught to do but to 
 wait until a few of the more energetic fellows 
 sunk holes on Bonanza. No one was more 
 surprised at the result than " Siawash George." 
 Bedrock on Bonanza showed the richest placer 
 dirt yet found in Alaska or the British North- 
 west Territory. Those who had been in time to 
 stake claims on Bonanza settled down to work 
 at once, incidentally extending their pity to the 
 fellows on the ** pup." The claim-owners on 
 Eldorado, where no shaft had been sunk, ac- 
 cepted the pity in good part and offered their 
 claims at various prices, ranging from one hun- 
 dred to five hundred dollars. Most of them 
 were so lucky as to be unable to make a sale, 
 and are now worth from five hundred thousand 
 
THE FIRST DISCOVERIES 
 
 to a million dollars apiece. The "pup** is 
 the richest placer mining creek in the world. 
 
 Nine months after " Injun Sharley " had 
 brought home a nugget instead of a moose, the 
 outside world heard of the great discovery. 
 Such pilgrims, attracted by the news, as suc- 
 ceeded in reaching Dawson in the autumn of 
 1897 found that all creeks rising on the slopes 
 of The Dome and all other creeks at that time 
 proven to be worth the working, had already 
 been staked by the old-timers who had followed 
 the advance guard from Circle City and Forty 
 Mile. Feverish stampede followed on feverish 
 stampede to new ground. That putting down 
 four stakes in a creek-bed anywhere in the re- 
 gion was equal to drawing a fortune from a bank 
 became the gospel of the hour, which received 
 its authority from the original attitude toward 
 the ''pup "of the men who had staked Eldo- 
 rado. A man needed only to come into a sa- 
 loon with a pack on his back, and, being tired, 
 appear silent and mysterious, to excite the sus- 
 picion that he had made a '' strike." " Only an 
 affidavit " of having found '' color " was neces- 
 sary to have a discovery claim recorded, and a 
 discovery always meant a stampede. Having 
 received a hint from a friend, or overheard a 
 
 83 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 whispered conversation in the street, a pilgrim 
 would rush off for a distance of more than a 
 day's travel, without food or blankets, trusting 
 to luck to feed him and keep him warm. 
 Death was often the result. 
 
 Having staked the remaining creeks in a ra- 
 dius of from thirty to sixty miles of Dawson, 
 some of the new-comers rested in their cabins, 
 eating their winter's supply of food. Others 
 found employment on the work-claims ; and 
 still others departed over the ice to escape 
 starvation and to thrill their neighbors at home 
 with the information that they owned claims. 
 As the humor of the saloons went, there re- 
 mained for the oncoming host of May and 
 June an expanse of unexplored territory suffi- 
 cient to keep a hundred times their number 
 busy prospecting for a century, but no gold at 
 all, unless they could find it for themselves. 
 
 84 
 
V 
 
 MINERS AND MINING 
 
 Reaping the Gold Harvest— Thawing and Sluicing — Miners 
 
 AND THEIR THEORIES— ThE DoME— EXPENSIVE TlMBER— 
 
 Empty Pockets but Dollars in the Dumps— The First 
 Millionnaires— Color in the Pan— Once a Prospector 
 Always a Prospector— Figuring Fortunes— Capitalists 
 IN Demand— The Forty Happy Kings on Eldorado. 
 
 IT was just on the eve of harvest-time when 
 I first visited the creeks. In a day or two 
 the flow of water from the gulches where the 
 snow lay thickest would make a head sufficient 
 to wash the yellow grain out of the dumps. 
 Along the four miles of Eldorado, or its full 
 length, and the ten miles of working claims on 
 Bonanza, lines of flumes and their dependent 
 sluice-boxes — the lumber for which had been 
 drawn on sleds from Dawson by husky dogs, 
 or cut with whipsaws — formed a network 
 around the string of cabins occupied by claim- 
 owners and their workmen and around the 
 piles of clayish-colored dirt, thawed out inch 
 by inch during the short winter days, which 
 
 85 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 contained virgin wealth amounting to ten mill- 
 ion dollars. The hill-sides, once covered with 
 timber, were bare of all except stumps and 
 scarred by broad streaks from top to bottom, 
 showing where logs for building the cabins 
 and for feeding the fires in the drifts had 
 been slid down. 
 
 If you descended by the shafts beside the 
 dumps to the drifts, you soon comprehended 
 that reaping the harvest, once you have a 
 claim, is not so easy as picking wild cran- 
 berries. It is dogged w^ork to build fires day 
 after day, running the risk of suffocation and 
 permanent injury to the eyes by the smoke, 
 and pulling up the dirt, bucketful after bucket- 
 ful, by means of a windlass, with the thermom- 
 eter forty below zero — and the prospect of 
 cooking your own dinner. The rising steam 
 from the thawing pay-dirt of the drifts, which 
 fills the valley with mist, adds the discomfort 
 of humidity to the biting cold. Though the 
 man who turns the windlass may have to beat 
 his hands and dance about to keep warm, he 
 is never in positive danger as is his partner 
 below, who, in returning to relight one of the 
 series of nicely arranged piles of wood which 
 have failed to ignite, is likely to be suffocated, 
 
 86 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 or, barring such slips as this or any consequent 
 accident, is sure to suffer continually from 
 soreness and smarting of the eyes, if not to 
 have them permanently injured by the smoke. 
 
 In one spot of three or four square feet on 
 Eldorado, the nuggets are so thick that you 
 can pick them out by hand as a farmer's boy 
 picks potatoes out of a hill. In juxtaposition 
 there may be as many more square feet which 
 are not considered worth thawing and sluicing ; 
 and so the angles of the drifts seem like the 
 path of a man of vacillating mind trying to 
 make his way to the light in darkness. From 
 two to three feet above the real bedrock is the 
 false bedrock, a stratum of stone broken into 
 angular fragments, apparently by some great 
 force passing overhead. Between the two is 
 the best paying-dirt, and occasionally here is 
 found, perhaps with particles of gold sticking 
 to it, the tusk of a mammoth who was the 
 ruler in the valley before the days of the moose. 
 
 In the angular fragments of the false bed- 
 rock the miners who are fond of making out 
 the reason of things over their cabin-fires, with 
 diversified reading in newspapers or even a 
 dip in a text-book of geology at school as basic 
 knowledge, find support for their favorite the- 
 
 87 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 ory as to how the yellow particles came to 
 their resting-place. Gold had never been found 
 before in such incongruous surroundings. 
 Therefore, they contend, it must have been 
 borne from its point of precipitation by some 
 force worthy of the situation and of Alaska, 
 where nature has a gift for seemingly para- 
 doxical performances done on a Brobdingna- 
 gian scale. What else but a glacier was equal 
 to the feat? It had scattered wealth in its 
 progress like some good Lady Bountiful, crush- 
 ing with its great weight the false bedrock 
 between whose fragments the dust had fallen 
 by force of gravity to the true bedrock. 
 
 Another, a smaller and perforce a more con- 
 fident school of thought, holds that an ancient 
 volcano ''coughed" the dust out of the bowels 
 of the earth. 
 
 For my part, inasmuch as the geologists 
 themselves have come to no certain conclu- 
 sion, I hold that all the gold which has been 
 found in the Klondyke and Indian River dis- 
 tricts was smelted in a great pot in The Dome 
 and has leaked out of its cracks. Then, as a 
 fitting corollary, I desire that one day an old 
 forty-niner, as sturdy and as fine as an old 
 weather-beaten oak, shall discover the pot and 
 
 83 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 find a leverage strong enough to lift the cover 
 off it ; whereupon, a good guardian, gently 
 reserving enough of his millions to give him a 
 certain annuity for life, he may spend the rest 
 in 'Frisco after the manner of his own choos- 
 ing as quickly as he can. But I am certain — 
 such is the irony of fate — that, instead of him, 
 the happy man will be an Oklahoma "boomer," 
 the father of several strapping daughters, who 
 never panned a handful of dirt before he 
 mortgaged his all in order to buy a Klondyker's 
 outfit. He will set his daughters up in the 
 capitals of Europe, where they will marry 
 continental noblemen, while the whole family 
 will be miserable for life. 
 
 In candor, I must say that with mine as 
 with most theories there are facts which go 
 to contradict it. The claims on the upper 
 reaches of the creeks, which have their origin 
 on the slopes of The Dome, are much richer 
 than those on the lower reaches, where the 
 dust is finer and more travel-worn as well as 
 more scattering. But in the head-waters noth- 
 ing has yet been found which is worth the 
 working. So either all the gold leaked out 
 some time before this force that carried it 
 ceased to operate, or the mythical person 
 
 89 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 who has charge of the pot mended the cracks, 
 or, possibly — and this is my hope — the fort- 
 unes which have already been brought to light 
 were only an overflow, the palpable result of 
 the chemist in charge of the vessel having 
 misjudged its capacity. 
 
 By the fifteenth of May the drifts were filled 
 or partly filled with seepage which had frozen 
 below a depth of a few feet, where the temper- 
 ature is never above freezing. Work in them 
 was at an end by the first of May, when the 
 surface earth had begun to thaw a little at mid- 
 day. Then the plane, saw, and hammer took 
 the place of the pick and shovel. If they had 
 used rosewood at New York or London prices 
 the miners could not have built their flumes and 
 sluice-boxes out of more expensive material 
 than that they had in the warping, knotty fir 
 boards which were condescendingly sold at 
 $250 a thousand by the three saw-mills in the 
 country. Once the flumes were laid to the 
 gulches and to the dams in the creek itself, the 
 sluice-boxes were properly laid on the dumps 
 which were to be washed first and the gates 
 between the two were made tight, the com- 
 munity was ready to reap the reward of a 
 winter's toil as soon as the sun should thaw 
 
 90 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 the drifts of snow on the mountain-sides suffi- 
 ciently to make a sluice-head of water. 
 
 There followed a brief period of inactivity- 
 like that between sowing and harvest for the 
 farmer. Every man had his opinion of how 
 much the output of all the creeks would be, 
 and the estimates varied from six to fifteen 
 millions. Within the big world of speculation 
 there were the small worlds of the groups of 
 cabins which clustered around that of the 
 owner of each claim on Eldorado and Bonan- 
 za. For the laymen who had taken portions 
 of claims to work on shares and for the claim- 
 owners, especially those who had employed the 
 workers on their claims at daily wages, it was 
 an interval of some anxiety. They would 
 soon know in what measure the estimates that 
 they had made from specimens of pay-dirt 
 panned out in buckets of water in their cabins 
 during the winter would be verified. Men 
 who had more than a hundred thousand dol- 
 lars in their dumps possibly had not five dollars 
 in cash in their possession. 
 
 The members of no community had ever 
 been submitted to a greater burden of usury. 
 They bore it with rare good-nature. What 
 else were they to do ? they asked. They 
 
 91 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 needed money for wages, for food for their 
 men, and for lumber, and those in town who 
 had money knew the value of it. The regular 
 rate in the winter was ten per cent, a month, 
 and some of the so-called millionnaires who 
 had owned nothing except an outfit two years 
 before were owing as much as $25,000 on 
 from three to six months' time. 
 
 A spirit of optimism and good cheer pre- 
 vailed. A sun bath, lounging in a home-made 
 chair on the stoop of a cabin (perhaps with a 
 pair of moose horns forming an ornamental 
 back), was a luxury better appreciated in the 
 Klondyke than in a temperate clime. Some- 
 times a breeze, with a faint odor of fir-trees 
 and of the many wild flowers which spring up 
 in tropical luxuriance in the spring, came 
 down the valley. Over the hills were young 
 birches which yielded a delicious sap for the 
 tapping. There was even gratitude to the 
 tyrant windlass of the winter days in that it 
 had supplied exercise, given an appetite, kept 
 the blood circulating, and prevented the scurvy, 
 which is to be dreaded only by the man who 
 lounges in his cabin, does not wash himself, 
 does not cook his food properly, and endea- 
 vors generally to imitate the bear. Nearly 
 
 92 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 everyone could hope, if he did not expect, that 
 his claim or his lay would turn out as well as 
 he had estimated. At all events, he would have 
 some spending money. He knew that the 
 early boats from Lake Le Barge would bring 
 in many luxuries just at the opportune mo- 
 ment when the '' clean-up " was about finished 
 and he might go to **town." He smacked his 
 lips in anticipation of the day when he would 
 have all the eggs that he could eat, regardless 
 of their cost. 
 
 One day the sun suddenly beat down with 
 great fierceness, which was unabated for several 
 days. Then the water came gushing down the 
 flumes in greater quantity than was needed, 
 and the men picked up their picks and shovels 
 again and began peeling off the dirt on the 
 dumps and tossing it into the sluice-boxes. 
 The warmth was prolonged through the night, 
 so that the dirt continued to thaw as fast as 
 they could strip it off, and on many claims — 
 whose owners had foresight or were in luck, as 
 one pleases to put it — there were two shifts 
 working all the time except when, once or 
 twice a day, the boxes were being ** cleaned " 
 of the accumulation of gold and the sand which 
 sinks with it between the cleats. The snow- 
 
 93 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 drifts were melting as if they were under a 
 blowpipe. Even the tiny streams of the gulches 
 become torrents, dams had to be opened, 
 and some sluice-boxes floated away from their 
 moorings. Only too soon was the loss of the 
 wasted energy brought home. With the snow 
 gone and rains and the seepage from the thaw- 
 ing surface the only source of water supply, 
 the currents dwindled until many claims had 
 not a single sluice-head. The claim-owners on 
 the tributary Eldorado, with as much dirt to 
 wash as the main stream Bonanza, particularly 
 had cause to resent the prodigality of nature in 
 expending all of its ammunition at once. In- 
 stead of having finished their washing in June 
 as they had confidently expected, all through 
 July they were measuring the head of water 
 from hour to hour with the care of a physician 
 feeling a patient's pulse. 
 
 When the '* clean-up " of a day's shovelling 
 was made, you might feast your eyes on the 
 consummation of the harvest. The water was 
 shut off and the cleats in the boxes were lifted 
 and rinsed, leaving a residue which glistened 
 with yellow particles. Just a small stream 
 was turned on by the man at the water-gates, 
 who was probably making the most of his rest 
 
 94 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 from shovelling by smoking a pipe of cut plug, 
 and then turned off again, or on a little more 
 or off a little less, while the most expert miner 
 on the claim pushed the speckled sand-pile 
 back and forth with a common brush-broom 
 until all the foreign particles had floated off, ex- 
 cept a sprinkling of the heavy black sand which 
 is invariably the companion of placer gold. 
 
 Three or four or five thousand dollars — per- 
 haps ten or fifteen or twenty thousand if the 
 ** clean-up " be on Eldorado — which is three 
 or four or five double handfuls, is put into 
 a pan with an ordinary fire-shovel. The sight 
 is bound to make your blood run faster and 
 to color your reason with an epic enthusi- 
 asm. That little yellow pile, you know at a 
 glance, will stand the test of chemicals. It 
 must also accept the concrete responsibility 
 for all the disappointments, sufferings, and 
 deaths of the pilgrims on the trail and the 
 worries of their friends and relatives at home. 
 Once you have seen a *' color " in the bottom 
 of a pan with the black sand following it 
 around like a faithful servant, you can never 
 again be deceived by the glitter of any false 
 gods. You would know it if you saw it be- 
 tween cobblestones on Broadway, or if it were 
 
 95 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 no larger than a pin-head at the bottom of a 
 trout-pool. 
 
 It is small wonder that once a man is a pros- 
 pector, in good faith, not a child of a wild stam- 
 pede, he is always a prospector. There is an 
 heroic aspect, the more charming in contrast to 
 the complexity of civilization, in going from 
 creek to creek which have no place on the 
 maps of geographical societies, taking a pan of 
 dirt here and a pan of dirt there, breathing 
 fresh air, a zest given to your exercise by the 
 hope of success. 
 
 For the moment, the yellow pile makes you 
 feel like seeking a claim of your own and har- 
 vesting its treasure for yourself. But when 
 you look at the miry path along the base of the 
 mountain by the creek-side, and think of fol- 
 lowing it with a pack on your back until it 
 is no more, and a wilderness begins ; of pass- 
 ing on over the mountains until you come to 
 what you consider a likely place, and thawing 
 through thirty feet of earth at a rate of a foot 
 a day in the hap-hazard possibility of finding 
 ** pay-dirt," you conclude that the poetry of the 
 thing can be better appreciated by sitting on 
 someone else's duriip. 
 
 Besides, as one who did a little prospecting 
 96 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 on his own account and is proud to say that he 
 found a few ''colors " — which is just what any- 
 one else can do in the Klondyke region — I 
 observed that the recent arrivals of Nestorian 
 prospectors who took a delight in quoting to 
 you from Emerson when their hands were 
 reeking with clay and their gray locks were 
 sticking through the crowns of old hats, do not 
 like Alaska, though free to admit its material 
 opportunities. They could not be weaned 
 from the temperate climate and the skies of 
 California, and were determined to return to 
 their old stamping-grounds, where any honest 
 prospector can get a grubstake from a specu- 
 lative city man, and needs nothing more to 
 make him happy and free. 
 
 After a few days' washing the hopes of most 
 of the laymen were shattered ; and so far as 
 their peace of mind was concerned, the worst of 
 it was that they had only their own lack of fore- 
 sight to blame. They had learned that even in 
 the Klondyke men do not make a practice of 
 giving fortunes away to strangers — except to 
 music-hall artistes — though, as in the centres 
 of civilization, they often negotiated a bargain 
 with an air of self-sacrifice which is an assump- 
 tion of as much. 
 
 97 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 Such was the attitude of many of the claim- 
 owners below the discovery claim on Bonanza 
 and of a few above who had prospected their 
 claims well enough to have some idea of what 
 was in them. They concluded to let out their 
 ground to be v/orked on shares, two men to 
 each section, which is called a lay. Many, es- 
 pecially those who had come in with the little 
 pilgrimage that reached Dawson in the autumn 
 of '97, were enraptured over the chance of get- 
 ting a portion of a claim on the original creek 
 and not far from "discovery," at that. 
 
 The number of applications quite exceeded 
 the number of lays to be let, and all through 
 the winter the laymen on Bonanza were the 
 envy of their fellows. The samples which they 
 washed out in their cabins had the peculiarity 
 of bringing promises up to original expecta- 
 tions, because the laymen had the weakness 
 of selecting the samples from their best dirt. 
 When the man who was in the drift came to 
 one of those rare spots in the pay-streak of 
 Lower Bonanza where he could see the tiny 
 particles shining in the wall of earth like gold- 
 en hoar-frost, he gleefully called out to his 
 **pardner" at the windlass to take it into the 
 cabin so they could see how much it ran to the 
 
 98 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 bucket. In the evening the happy children, 
 upon the result as a basis, quite overestimating 
 the amount of dirt they had in their dumps, 
 figured out small fortunes for themselves, spoke 
 of the claim-owner as a good angel, hugged 
 their knees fondly, as if they had materialized 
 into dust, and saw brilliant pictures in their 
 smoke rings. 
 
 In their letters, detailing their success to the 
 folks at home, they promised their wives new 
 gowns and their daughters pianos. They were 
 doing so well that they felt that they could 
 afford holidays. They fell into the way of 
 ** knocking off " by mutual consent at noon on 
 days when they had to bake bread. If it was 
 a little colder than usual in the morning they 
 succumbed to the temptation of making more 
 figures and dreaming more dreams by the fire 
 and postponing work until the morrow. ** The 
 gold's in the ground ; it's ours. All we've got 
 to do is to take it out, and we've got to stay 
 here two or three winters, anyway," was the 
 argument with which they excused themselves. 
 The size of their dumps beside those excavated 
 by employees who worked by the hour was a 
 silent commentary on the value of discipline. 
 
 Mid-July found them in Dawson in a mood 
 
 99 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 to afford at least one more dish of eggs, one 
 more dinner at the restaurant before they set- 
 tled down to the economical life which their 
 necessities required. Occasionally they took 
 out of their pockets, to amuse their friends, 
 clippings from the home paper, in which they 
 saw themselves made out millionnaires. They 
 reread the letters from home which had come 
 along with the clippings in the first mail down 
 the river, and confronted deep perplexities. It 
 was only human that they should wish that the 
 wife had not gone so far as actually to order the 
 piano and the gown. While they calculated 
 how much they would need for their winter's 
 outfit and how much they could send home — 
 if that fund did not all go for eggs before the 
 problem was settled — they formulated the 
 wording of their replies by which they should 
 explain the situation. 
 
 To the credit of the sex be it said that the 
 wives of some of the unfortunate laymen knew 
 their husbands' weaknesses. One optimist, 
 who had taken only $900 out of his claim in- 
 stead of the $10,000 that he had anticipated, 
 received this reply from home : 
 
 "God bless you, Charlie, but we've made too 
 
 many ten thousands without ever getting them 
 
 100 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 for me to count my chickens before they're 
 hatched. I'm being as economical as I can, 
 and telling the neighbors that I hope you'll 
 make a good year's wages, but that it's too 
 early to tell yet for certain." 
 
 Most of the laymen, if they had worked 
 steadily for eight hours a day — more are scarce- 
 ly practicable on account of the long nights — 
 would have had more than the equivalent of the 
 prevailing rate of wages. Those who had felt 
 themselves to be unfortunate in not getting 
 lays and had sought employment, because they 
 had someone to tell them to go to work in the 
 morning, were in the mood of the school-boy 
 who had studied during the term and passed 
 his examination as opposed to the boy who 
 had not. Their employers were better satis- 
 fied because their claims had been worked with 
 more system and thoroughness than the others, 
 and were more than glad to pay the interest, 
 heavy as it was, on their borrowed capital. 
 
 While the laymen were inclined to exag- 
 gerate the amount of their earnings in order 
 to decrease the discrepancy between their win- 
 ter boasts and their spring returns, the claim- 
 owners themselves, who early in May were 
 serene optimists and put the total output of 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 the country at $15,000,000, by the end of 
 May were dour pessimists, asserting their un- 
 bounded faith that the total output would not 
 be more than $6,000,000. Early in May, you 
 see, there was an impression that the Govern- 
 ment royalty of ten per cent, on the gross 
 product of all claims had been repealed. At 
 the end of May, Major Walsh, the Commis- 
 sioner of the Yukon District, arrived with the 
 positive information that the royalty would be 
 collected. Most of the claim-owners on Bo- 
 nanza had suffered the same disillusion as their 
 laymen ; but most of them, if the Government 
 had not decided that they would have to pay 
 the royalty on the laymen's gold as well as 
 on their own, would have put on a bold front, 
 especially as their claims were for sale. 
 
 When claim-owners met on the trail, after 
 comparing notes as to the number of eggs 
 eaten at the first sitting, the invariable remark 
 was: 
 
 *' I don't suppose you've heard anything 
 about your claim being sold ! " 
 
 For no one was certain whether he or 
 some stranger owned the wealth of his dumps. 
 Without any property under consideration by 
 the capitalists of London or New York, you 
 
 102 
 
(J 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 were a kind of social outcast. Claims that 
 were under options were as common as mort- 
 gages formerly were on farms in Kansas. 
 
 The prospect of famine during the winter 
 had been responsible for this. Some enter- 
 prising fellows, who were among the first to 
 go out over the ice, made the best of their 
 opportunity as connecting links between an 
 isolated community and civilization. 
 
 '* Here you are," they said to the claim- 
 owners on Eldorado and Bonanza, *' paying a 
 dollar and a quarter and a dollar and a half 
 an hour for labor and thawing the dirt out 
 by inches, when capitalists, with cheaper labor 
 and improved appliances, can take it out for 
 half the money. Why, it's a case of the old 
 stage coach against the lightning express. If 
 they can block a number of claims and work 
 'em together, they'll gladly pay you on the 
 spot more'n you can get out of your claim 
 the way you're working it, and make a 
 good thing, out of it too. The whole out- 
 side's wild over the Klondyke. The capital- 
 ists are longing for the chance. All that's got 
 to be done is to lay it before 'em. You name 
 your price and give me six months' option 
 and we'll take 'em out and sell 'em. What 
 
 103 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 we get for 'em's our affair. We'll make our 
 commission out of the difference." 
 
 The enthusiasts believed what they said. 
 They assured themselves and the claim-owners 
 that none of the arguments which held good 
 in other mining camps could apply in this 
 instance. The Klondyke was a law unto it- 
 self in all matters of investment, they said. 
 They put dust from each of the claims which 
 they were to sell in a separate bag, and this 
 they were to offer to the simple-minded finan- 
 ciers of London and New York as a guaran- 
 tee of the correctness of their several repre- 
 sentations. Each zealous miner being desir- 
 ous that his claim should show up well on the 
 list, some of the promoters obtained several 
 thousand dollars in nuggets. 
 
 Such examples of success were not without 
 their effect upon those who went out over 
 the ice at later periods. The field of all the 
 claims on the creeks as yet demonstrated to 
 be valuable having been worked, they turned 
 their attention to those creeks which had been 
 staked on unfounded rumors by stampedes, 
 and possibly were worth no more than the 
 beds of so many creeks in the valley of the 
 Hudson River. They neglected none of the 
 
 1 04 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 details. Because it looks better to the lay eye, 
 they chose dust from Eldorado as examples of 
 the product of these ''wild oat prospectors." 
 
 The moral effect of the option craze was 
 unfortunate in more respects than one. Men 
 who owned claims on stampede creeks felt 
 that they could afford to waste their winter in 
 idleness in their cabins as long as they had 
 property in the hands of New York capitalists. 
 They could not escape the heresy that a claim 
 in the Klondyke, no matter what its loca- 
 tion, was regarded by the outside world as a 
 valuable piece of property. It was especially 
 hard for those who had not funds enough to 
 buy their winter's outfit, as they inquired along 
 the river bank, day after day, as the boats came 
 in, to learn finally that the promoters to whom 
 they had intrusted their claims had arrived 
 on the Pacific Coast just at the time when the 
 Klondyke was forgotten and all public interest 
 was centred in another subject, and, accord- 
 ingly, had enlisted in the volunteer army. 
 
 Those promoters with small ambitions fared 
 the best. In London they sold a few of the 
 cheaper claims, which, as a rule, were disap- 
 pointments to the purchasers. But sometimes 
 it is better to be trusting than to be wise. One 
 
 105 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 young Englishman bought a claim on Sulphur 
 for $2,000 which would not have sold for $500 
 in Dawson at the time. When he arrived to 
 take possession of it in June, its value had 
 risen so rapidly on account of the later de- 
 velopment of the creek that he sold it for 
 $20,000. The anxiety of the claim-owners on 
 the new creeks, as Sulphur, Dominion, and 
 Hunker — all having their head-waters on the 
 slopes of The Dome — w^ere called, lest the pro- 
 moters had sold their claims, was as great as 
 that of some of the claim-owners on Bonanza 
 lest their claims had not been sold. Perhaps 
 as many as thirty claims on the new creeks 
 had been worked to any extent during the 
 past winter, with such results as to increase 
 their speculative value by five hundred per 
 cent. 
 
 The forty happy kings of the forty claims 
 on Eldorado also preferred not to sell. That 
 " pup '* returned good for evil. It heaped 
 satire upon the satirists who had given it its 
 name as a joke, and continued to surpass all 
 expectations. The optimism which over- 
 estimated Bonanza under-estimated Eldorado. 
 These forty kings, as they compared the out- 
 put with their figures, concluded, with some 
 
 106 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 pride, that all born mathematicians are in- 
 clined to be too conservative. 
 
 You could see the dust glistening in the 
 dumps of the '' pup." The water gurgling 
 over the cleats in the sluice-boxes seemed to 
 sing a merrier song than on Bonanza. Every 
 shovelful which it bore chuckling over the 
 cleats yielded up a dollar or more. It licked 
 twice as much off rocks that had to be lifted 
 out of the sluice-boxes by hand because its 
 current was not strong enough to carry them 
 on down to the waste pile. At intervals, nug- 
 gets of some size were unearthed by the spade 
 and were tossed into a pan at one side. If 
 you were a friend of the claim-owner he would 
 beg you to take your pick of the lot as a 
 souvenir of the day. But you would not get 
 one worth more than ten or fifteen dollars, 
 even if you were greedy enough to choose it 
 for its size rather than for its beauty. The 
 giants — one was found worth $600 and those 
 worth from $50 to $100 were not infrequent — 
 had been spied in the drifts in the winter. 
 
 A magnificent carelessness of details pre- 
 vailed. A scientific miner who had seen fort- 
 unes made in California out of a cent a pan 
 would have regarded the forty kings in the 
 
 107 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 light of infants making a holiday with a tack 
 hammer and a gold watch. They could afford 
 to laugh back at him in return. There is some 
 reason in their philosophy that one cannot 
 afford to pay men a dollar and a quarter an 
 hour to pick up stray pennies, and more in 
 the philosophy that when you have a fortune 
 you have enough. 
 
 It was not yet in the old-timer's nature, 
 rapidly as his character was changing, to 
 squeeze the last cent out of Mother Earth, 
 in the manner of some hard taskmaster, when 
 she had given to him such a bountiful harvest. 
 A little line of dust, like a braid of gold lace, 
 remaining on either side of the sluice-boxes 
 after a day's clean-up was dismissed with the 
 remark that it would '* come out in the wash " 
 next time. If the workman who had the un- 
 comfortable and unhealthy position — especi- 
 ally when the sun was directly overhead — of 
 standing in the dump-box, took a few minutes' 
 rest, he shrugged his shoulders and said that 
 any dust that was lost in the meantime could 
 be a boon to the Chinamen who, coming hum- 
 bly after the white man's departure, would 
 patiently take fortunes out of the white man's 
 tailings — unless the capitalist should make the 
 
 lo8 
 
Shovelling a Clean-Up into a Gold Pan. 
 
 m 
 
 
 ■M 
 
 dS^'-.. 
 
 
 |j 
 
 
 ^^If^^^Bl^r^'^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 fc_^^ 
 
 ■C^2l!!l.~" ** 
 
 & 
 
 
 n 
 
 iP^'^'^B-^iS 
 
 
 ^IBP"^ 
 
 psspilH 
 
 B 
 
 Cleaning Up. 
 
MINERS AND MINING 
 
 valley resound with the toil of machinery 
 manned by cheap labor, thus cheating poor 
 John out of what he has come to regard as 
 the right of his race in placer mining countries. 
 There was not one strong box for the safe- 
 keeping of the daily harvest of thousands on 
 all of the creeks. The bags of dust were kept 
 in the little cellars which the miners had ex- 
 cavated under their cabins for the preservation 
 of their food. There was a joke which went 
 the round of the firesides during the food-panic 
 that it would be cheaper to fry the dust and 
 save the hams. For the bags, made of rough- 
 ly tanned moosehide, the Indians received 
 prices in keeping with those of other things. 
 They bore the owner's name printed in ink, if 
 ink could be obtained ; their capacity was 
 about $5,000 each, and they were not unlike, 
 in their freshness as well as in their size, the 
 dirty, worn, brown little bags which were 
 carried in lieu of purses. Three or four of 
 them were all that you cared to carry on your 
 back. When you met men on the trail bend- 
 ing as under heavy packs of slight bulk, you 
 knew their business. If there were many bags 
 there might be an escort with a rifle and there 
 
 might not. Most of the claim-owners thought 
 
 109 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 nothing of sending several thousands by their 
 employees, unaccompanied, to be deposited in 
 one of the Commercial Companies' stores ; but 
 once the *' Cheechawkos " began to arrive, all 
 sought locks for their cellar-doors. 
 
 no 
 
VI 
 
 SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 The Fool and his Lucky Friends — More Theorizers — ^Joe 
 Staley and Billy Deddering — French Gulch Bench 
 — Good Fortune that was Deserved — Neighbors and 
 Twins — No Cure for the Gold Fever. 
 
 IT was the greater world of the Klondyke 
 that was bounded by the creek claims. A 
 smaller world was bounded by the hill-sides 
 where there were many fresh mounds of earth, 
 suggesting that the population might be dig- 
 ging their graves one by one. Graves of am- 
 bitions most of these mounds were, in all truth. 
 A few, readily distinguished as far as you 
 could see the two figures hovering over them, 
 were the birthplaces of the fortune which 
 the figures were exhuming with the orthodox 
 rocker. 
 
 The original nugget washed out of a bench 
 and deposited where Indian Charlie's gaze 
 would light on it did not lead, even indirectly, 
 to the discovery of the wealth of the benches. 
 
 Ill 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 This honor belongs to a stalwart Swede, whose 
 race in the Klondyke is the general butt of that 
 fine wit of our own race which makes a mark 
 of a foreigner's broken English and his efforts 
 to understand strange manners and a strange 
 language. One day in the spring of 1897 he 
 went up the slope above his cabin near the 
 mouth of Eldorado and began to strip off the 
 muck as fast as the sun thawed it. Directly 
 his neighbors saw what he was doing they be- 
 gan to compose satirical remarks against the 
 time when he should come down. 
 
 ** Why don't you go looking for gold up a 
 tree ? " they asked him. 
 
 " I tank gold no grow on trees," he replied, 
 in all candor. 
 
 " Say, did you ever hear," they continued, as 
 they held their sides, *' that the weight of gold 
 makes it sink ? I suppose you think the 
 glacier walked up on the hills and left a few 
 millions there. The millions didn't roll down.^ 
 Oh, no ! That's why we have to sink through 
 thirty feet in the creek bed to pay dirt. Better 
 try the trees ! You might find a bear up the 
 trees and bear meat would be worth three 
 pennyweights a pound in town." 
 
 ** If you don't dig some hole you no find 
 112 
 
SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 gold. By tarn ! I dig a hole if I vant to," he 
 replied, as he went into his cabin. 
 
 ''Well of all the fools," they said, ''it takes a 
 Swede to beat the lot." 
 
 Men passing on the trails stopped to look up 
 to the point where the "fool" was working, 
 grew friendly in despising him, and carried the 
 joke to the ends of the creeks and to Dawson, 
 where it was elaborated over the bars. 
 
 One evening the " fool " quietly called on all 
 of his friends among his fellow Scandinavians, as 
 well as upon certain Anglo-Saxons who had 
 not made fun of his English. They followed 
 him up the hill and drove stakes in the neigh- 
 borhood of his prospect hole. The twinkle in 
 his blue eye was not unkind, though sugges- 
 tive, the next morning when he showed to the 
 scoffers a handful of nuggets from a claim 
 which was worth $50,000. But scoffers ac- 
 cept nothing on faith. They would not be- 
 lieve that he took the nugget out of the hill 
 until they had panned some of his dirt them- 
 selves. 
 
 " Well, of all the lucky fools," they said, " it 
 takes a Swede to beat the lot ! Here's millions 
 been lyin' within ten rods of us for a year and 
 we never knowed it." 
 
 113 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 Those who had sharpened their wits at the 
 discoverer's expense now hastened to get a 
 claim as near as possible to his, until a mile of 
 Bonanza on both sides of the creek was taken 
 up, from the point where the slopes meet the 
 creek bed to their summit. Theories about the 
 habits of the glacier were qualified by the ex- 
 perts. Thenceforth, it stood to reason that the 
 breadth of no glacier of such importance would 
 be limited to that of a creek. The scoffers 
 soon found themselves saying that this had 
 been their opinion all along, and eventually be- 
 came so imaginative as to hint that they had 
 advised the Swede to make the experiment. 
 
 Poetic justice attended the immediate out- 
 come of the stampede. The pioneer and the 
 parasite got their fit rewards. There was less 
 than an acre of good pay dirt on Skookum 
 Bench, as it was called, and this mostly fell to 
 the discoverer and his friends. Here and there 
 in the neighborhood good day's wages could be 
 made with a rocker, and nothing more. En- 
 thusiasm over bench claims languished. 
 
 *' It was just like a Swede to strike the only 
 rich bench in the whole country the first time 
 that he put his pick in the ground," said the 
 scoffers. In their pessimistic philosophy, 
 
 114 
 
SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 which exults over deserted prospect holes, the 
 latest strike is always bound to be the last. 
 They are the very ones who were the greatest 
 optimists when they left home to try their luck 
 in the North against the advice of their friends. 
 This weakness is likely to grow on Klondykers 
 who become too fond of a sedentary life, un- 
 less their supply of bacon runs out and forces 
 action, or they awaken to a sense of their 
 growing degradation when they eat fresh eggs 
 in Dawson and then see the world in bright 
 colors again. But long after the cynics are 
 dead, strikes will be made in Alaska by the 
 class of real prospectors who cheerily face all 
 hardships and get out of them good digestions 
 for anything from flapjacks to moose gristle or 
 even boiled willow roots. 
 
 Joe Staley and Billy Deddering, who dis- 
 covered French Gulch Bench, the richest of all 
 the benches, the spring following the discovery 
 of Skookum Bench, were of the order of real 
 prospectors. They had served their appren- 
 ticeship in various parts of the Rockies, which 
 are the playground of free men from end to 
 end. 
 
 Fond as I am of the California prospector, I 
 am unwilling to accept the verdict of his squint 
 
 115 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 whenever he brings it to bear on a portion of 
 the earth's surface, though Billy Deddering, I 
 admit, as he understands relative values, has 
 reason to believe in his. But, in one sense, I 
 rejoice with him in his faith, inasmuch as the 
 scoffers, who want to make out that all success 
 in the Klondyke comes from luck, and that they 
 have failed because they never had any, spun 
 the yarn that a log which he was shooting down 
 the hill for a cabin knocked a nugget out of the 
 ground and thus became the godfather of his 
 fortune. 
 
 Some two miles above the mouth of Eldo- 
 rado, French Gulch splits the embankment 
 which forms the western wall of the valley of 
 Eldorado. Billy's squint, when he brought it 
 to bear on the rounded corner of the embank- 
 ment on the lower side of the gulch in some- 
 thing of the manner of an old-fashioned ma- 
 rine covering a sail with his telescope, told him 
 that this was exactly the place where gold ought 
 to be found, even if it was not. The first hole 
 that he sunk yielded only colors. A clerk from 
 London or the Eastern seaboard of the United 
 States might have gone back down the hill with 
 his pick and shovel in a fit of blues and never 
 come up again. Billy was not in the least dis- 
 
 Il6 
 
SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 couraged. He merely readjusted his squint, 
 and concluded : 
 
 " If 'tain't here it must be farther up." 
 
 So it was. In the next hole he took $187 
 out of his first pan on bedrock. Joe was with 
 him at the time, but at the request of Joe I 
 give all the credit for the discovery to Billy. 
 
 *' It was Billy's idea entirely," Joe said. ** He 
 spotted the ground first." 
 
 ''What did you do," I asked Billy, ''when 
 you struck it after all your years of buffeting 
 about from one camp to another?" 
 
 " Well," he replied, " I looked around to see 
 if anybody had seen us." 
 
 " Nobody did see us, so far as we could make 
 out," Joe put in, " but they must have noticed 
 that we went down the hill as light as if we was 
 walkin' on feathers, though we was tryin' to look 
 very solemn, like we was at a funeral. When 
 somebody asked us if we had found anything I 
 reckon we kind o' started, though we was care- 
 ful to say, 'Jest a few colors.' But durned if 
 the crowd wasn't up there 'fore the few friends 
 we had among our neighbors had fairly got their 
 stakes in the ground." 
 
 "And you, Joe ? What did you think of 
 that night before you turned in ? " 
 
 117 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 "Old's I am, and long's I've been knockin' 
 about the world, I've never been married, and 
 naturally I thought what a surprise it would be 
 to mother, when she got a letter sayin' that her 
 oldest boy was comin' back to 'hio with a pile 
 to pay off the mortgage and spen/i the rest of 
 his days on the old homestead." 
 
 "And you, Billy?" 
 
 " I wished I was in 'Frisco with that hun- 
 dred and eighty-seven." 
 
 Many times I climbed the hill to have a talk 
 with Joe and Billy. They were a relief from 
 the loungers and speculators in the hotel at the 
 Forks, who seemed to think that the business 
 of a newspaper correspondent was to expound 
 the possibility of the schemes for enlisting capi- 
 tal which they were promoting. It was a pleas- 
 ure to look into the good faces of Joe and 
 Billy, and to shake their hands, caked with 
 clay. I sat on a stone and smoked my pipe, 
 while Joe carried buckets of dirt to Billy, who 
 looked up with a smile on his round German 
 face, which was spattered with drops of mud 
 that had splashed out of the rocker when he 
 shook it, or when he ladled water on to the dirt 
 with a dipper made out of a butter-can. Joe 
 said that he didn't mind if the fact that he 
 
SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 had struck it was published in the Sydney (Ohio) 
 Journal, but beyond that I knew he had no 
 axes to grind, and my highest ambition for the 
 moment was that they should think me a good 
 fellow, while their greatest fear was that I was 
 starving because I would not go up to the tent 
 and have a cup of coffee and a '* bite to eat" in 
 the middle of the afternoon. 
 
 The sun was accommodating enough to thaw 
 the dirt as fast as Billy could rock it, and Joe 
 could bring it a little faster than either the sun 
 could thaw it or Billy could rock it. This al- 
 lowed Joe intervals in which to rest, to enter- 
 tain me, and to relight his pipe. I used to offer 
 my pouch to him, telling him that he would get 
 more smoke if he used tobacco. 
 
 "Couldn't think of it. There's nothin' so 
 sweet as the heel," he would say. '' It gives 
 me a puff, and that's all I want." 
 
 It was not surprising that he wondered why 
 the supplies of tobacco which other men had 
 brought in with their outfits were long ago ex- 
 hausted, while he had plenty left. He pro- 
 tested, notwithstanding Billy's denials, that he 
 filled his pipe every morning— at least, almost 
 every morning. 
 
 The experience of seeking with his own 
 
 IIQ 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 hands wealth direct from the hands of Mother 
 Nature had chiselled out the lines of his face in 
 distinct, unqualified characteristics, without any 
 of the doubtful gingerbread work which we 
 find on faces in civilization. It was like the 
 weather-beaten image on some old church, 
 careless of the storms which make a new image 
 streaked and mean. He and his ''pardner" 
 were *' rocking out " five hundred dollars a 
 day ; he was no man's servant and no man's 
 master, and more of a king than kmgs. I 
 have gathered nuggets on his claim as easily as 
 I have picked up white pebbles on the beach 
 in boyhood. 
 
 The great difficulty is in developing such a 
 wonderful squint as Billy Deddering's and in 
 finding the exact spot where such nests of nug- 
 gets are located. If ever there was a poor 
 man's claim it is the bench claim. All you 
 need to work it are a rocker, which costs fifteen 
 dollars, and your pick and shovel. A blind 
 ditch whose frozen walls are as tight as a por- 
 celain bath-tub will catch the seepage from the 
 pay dirt, which is thawed by the sun as it is 
 gradually exposed. So you have all the water 
 that you need, without too much. If the bed- 
 rock be at some depth, you can work in winter 
 
SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 as well as in summer. A year at the most will 
 suffice to take out your fortune ; and you have 
 no worry over borrowed money, flumes, sluices, 
 or dams. 
 
 If Billy had not already staked his bench 
 claim rights for the Bonanza Creek region, he 
 and Joe would not have had to be content with 
 a single claim, and one of them would have 
 got the claim just above discovered, which 
 was even richer, two men taking as high as a 
 thousand dollars a day out of it. Here was 
 dirt richer than any on Eldorado itself, twenty 
 of whose forty working claims, probably con- 
 taining thirty million dollars, stretched out 
 in a panorama before you when you looked 
 either up or down the creek. If one could 
 have had a claim on the bench of the size of 
 the creek claims, instead of one only a hundred 
 feet square, he would have been more than a 
 millionnaire ; and by hiring labor he could have 
 left the country in three months after the dis- 
 covery with his money in his pocket. 
 
 Sad to say, there was not room for all on 
 French Gulch Bench any more than on Eldo- 
 rado. The whole extent of the pay dirt was 
 not more than two or three acres. It was 
 just as large as the dip in the hill-side, which, 
 
 121 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 according to the theory of Billy, caught and 
 held the gold when it was travelling, while all 
 that passed over the rim went on down to the 
 creek bed below, leaving only an occasional 
 color in its track. But I disagree with Billy. 
 I think that all is accounted for by the giant 
 keeper of the pot in The Dome having thrown 
 out a handful of the overflow across the hills. 
 This makes the presence of wash-gravel, which 
 is absent, unnecessary, and reconciles itself to 
 the presence of nuggets in rotten mica shist, 
 which is the most inexcusable of all the para- 
 doxes in Alaska, the old prospectors say. 
 
 Aside from Billy and Joe, I came to know 
 some of their fortunate neighbors. Dan Saun- 
 ders probably had the best claim of all. He 
 was at the hotel at the Forks one day, and in 
 his cups when a man offered in the bar-room 
 to sell a claim on French Gulch Bench for a 
 hundred dollars. The Forks is the Stock Ex- 
 change of the creeks, and at that moment, on 
 account of some rumor, the opinion ruled that 
 the bench had been salted. The claim-owner 
 believed it. Dan said he would give fifty 
 down and the first fifty out of the claim, and 
 the offer was accepted. The morning after, 
 when Dan's wit was not so brilliant, but his 
 
SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 reasoning faculties had improved, he went up 
 to look at his elephant. He came down a 
 week later and tried to spend the two or 
 three thousand dollars he had taken out in the 
 meantime. He could dispose of only part of 
 it, and returned to his claim in despair, some- 
 what disgusted with city life. 
 
 Burke, who owned the claim next to Saun- 
 ders, was a type of the runaway boys from the 
 East who have turned up in the Klondyke 
 after having served an apprenticeship in the 
 West. This one reaped among the harvest 
 of his wild oats the largest nugget that was 
 taken out of French Gulch Bench. It was the 
 shape of an oblong pancake, without any 
 quartz in it, and worth $210. When I met 
 him in Dawson one morning, he was gleeful 
 over the joke he had played on the old folks at 
 home. For the first time in five years he had 
 written to them. They had as good reasons to 
 suppose that he was dead as that he was in the 
 Klondyke. 
 
 *' Won't their eyes pop and won't they have 
 something to tell the neighbors when they find 
 out that their worthless Tom is comin' home 
 with fifty thousand cold ! " 
 
 That same day I dined with Joe Staley at 
 123 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 the foremost restaurant in town. When we 
 had eaten fresh eggs and other luxuries which 
 had just been brought in from the '' outside," 
 as he pushed his plate away from him he shook 
 his head dubiously : 
 
 " I dunno as I'll be so happy as I thought, 
 when I settle down among the cows and 
 chickens," he mused. ''This grub don't taste 
 the way I thought 'twould. Darned if I don't 
 hke the beans and bacon that I have up at 
 the claim better, and I'll be glad to be back 
 carryin' dirt to the rocker for Billy to-morrow. 
 They say once the gold fever's in a fellow's 
 bones it sticks like the rheumatiz, and I be- 
 lieve it. I reckon it's the only thing I'll be 
 satisfied with in this life. But I won't pros- 
 pect in this godless region. I'll go back to 
 Calif orny." 
 
 On my way to see Joe and Billy I often 
 stopped for a chat with Ned and Fred Beck, 
 who were sinking a shaft to bedrock at the 
 base of French Gulch Bench hill. These 
 twin brothers had been " pardners " for forty 
 years. They had the vigor which comes from 
 living among the Rockies. Their faces, 
 framed in white beards, were fresh and smil- 
 ing. The archaic furnace which they had 
 
 124 
 
1^' 
 
 The Discoverers of French Gulch Bench at Work. 
 
 s '^J 
 
 Pardners and Twins for Forty Years. 
 
SOME KLONDYKE TYPES 
 
 constructed for sharpening their tools, if not 
 their age and personal resemblance, would 
 have attracted attention. 
 
 '' Have you never quarrelled ? " I asked. 
 
 *' Oh, yes, lots of times," said Fred, " and 
 agreed on quits lots of times, too. After 
 Ned's had a drink or two he always gets 
 cranky and wants to start out for himself." 
 
 '' Not much crankier n you do," Ned put in. 
 
 '' That's right," Fred assented. " But when 
 we're sober we make it up again and are 
 ashamed of ourselves. We may be twins, but 
 we're just fitted for each other." 
 
 " That's right, too," Fred assented. 
 
 125 
 
VII 
 
 GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. "Meenach" and their Menage — The Juve- 
 nile Mining Company, Limited — Voss — The Arch-Deacon 
 — A Sour-Dough Stiff — A Dalmatian and a Turk — Sia- 
 WASH George and his Steam-engine — Miss Mulrooney at 
 The Forks — The Price of a " Square " with Trimmings. 
 
 ONE day, if the quartz claims which have 
 been staked should fulfil the hopes of 
 their owners, the Klondyke will become a 
 place of managers and workmen, of stamp 
 mills and chemical processes. To-day, there 
 is very little to say about the working of the 
 mines, which is as simple as building a fire, 
 digging a well and doing the week's wash, 
 but much to say about my friends and ac- 
 quaintances there, who came from the ends of 
 the earth and represented most of its employ- 
 ments. Without knowing individuals, the 
 pilgrimage of the Cheechawkos would have 
 meant no more to me than a motley proces- 
 sion seen from a balcony. Those leading 
 citizens and well-known characters whom I 
 
 126 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 met, under the guidance of Captain Hansen 
 in a round of the town on the evening after 
 my arrival, are worthy of a chapter by them- 
 selves. If I had taken advantage of all the 
 letters of introduction to claim-owners that 
 they gave me I think that I should have 
 been three weeks in travelling the length of 
 Bonanza. 
 
 In return for hospitality that did not stand 
 upon formality but laid its hand on my shoulder 
 and insisted, I could offer nothing except the 
 news from the " outside," the bad news that 
 there was no escape from the royalty. I 
 registered a vow that if I were to make the 
 journey over the ice again I would find room 
 among my supplies for one more article of 
 luxury, or else forego the privilege of intro- 
 ductions. I saw in my dreams the smiles 
 with which my hosts would have greeted the 
 offer of a good cigar, until I had the con- 
 science of a highway robber. 
 
 " Don't forget to call on Meenach ! " said 
 
 Captain Hansen. '* He's the luckiest man in 
 
 the country without exception. He doesn't 
 
 have to darn his own socks and cook his own 
 
 bacon and beans and you'll know him because 
 
 he's sleek and fat and clean-shaven. I walk up 
 
 127 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 the creek when I can get the time just for 
 the privilege of poking my head in at Mee- 
 nach's door. To a poor devil of a Klondyker 
 it's a peep into paradise." 
 
 It was not enough that the fortunate Mee- 
 nach should have his wife ; he had also his 
 little boy of six and his two little girls, one 
 of four and the other of two years, with him. 
 After he wrote to Mrs. Meenach that he had 
 killed his lion, she came on to him ; and she 
 brought with her such thing as sheets, table- 
 cloths, and pillows, and a regulation cooking- 
 stove. He never dared to compute just how 
 much the stove had cost him, preferring not 
 to have his enjoyment of the luxury allayed. 
 The mere expense of bringing it up from 
 Dawson would have bought two or three good 
 ones at home. 
 
 To the miners the most wonderful feature of 
 the Meenach cabin was the carpet on the floor. 
 Some of them wanted to take off their boots 
 before entering, and one suggested that if he 
 were younger he would walk in on his hands. 
 
 '' If you don't mind," he added, " I'll sit 
 with my back to the sheets on the bed. It's 
 too much at a time. I want to drift into this 
 easy like." 
 
 128 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 " Folks who live in castles may be bothered 
 by having too many rooms to care for," said 
 Mrs. Meenach, "but not I, in my cabin. I 
 could put the children to bed with one hand, 
 stir something on the stove with the other, 
 and set the table with the third, if I had it. 
 It's no trouble to go to the market in the 
 morning. All our fresh vegetables are in tin 
 cans in the cache just outside the door. Oh, 
 yes, there is much to be thankful for if I look 
 at it in the right light. We kept our condensed 
 cream, our canned asparagus and our canned 
 peas all winter without being frozen. Then, 
 please heaven, something green grows in this 
 country. I have a little cranberry sauce from 
 the poor cranberries on the hill-side, and I 
 agree with the children that it is ' gooder'n * 
 anything I ever tasted. If I could get a fresh 
 cabbage I think I should eat it all without 
 waiting to put salt on it. Now I live from 
 day to day on the hopes of the eggs which are 
 expected in on the first boats." 
 
 Thus she chatted while she warmed the 
 
 tinned roast mutton in the frying-pan, boiled 
 
 the evaporated potatoes and the tinned sweet 
 
 corn. 
 
 " I'm not going to say that dinner, such as it 
 129 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 is, is ready," she said, ** because, in the Klon- 
 dyke, that is quite superfluous." 
 
 It is good when you have eaten beans for a 
 month off a tin plate balanced upon your knee, 
 to look upon a clean table-cloth again, to sit 
 by the window of a cabin in blissful certainty 
 that your journey is at an end, and have a 
 good and " gentle woman pour you a cup of 
 tea. I remember the meal as a banquet, not a 
 dinner. After it was over, the lord and master 
 and I smoked our pipes until the little ones' 
 heads began to nod, when I went into the 
 cabin of one of his laymen to roll up in. my 
 blanket. 
 
 The children had reason to think that they 
 were the only children in the world and to be 
 as proud as princes. But Mrs. Meenach's 
 fears lest they should be spoiled by the adula- 
 tion of the miners were equally vain with her 
 fears about their health. The extent of their 
 illnesses was a day's indisposition on the part 
 of the baby. Swathed in furs and scarfs until 
 only their noses were visible and their limbs 
 were as stiff as a doll baby's, they might go out 
 to play with their sleds for a few moments at 
 a time. Listening to the cries of the dog- 
 drivers and the howls of their steeds, which 
 
 130 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 had turned their mother's nerves on edge, had 
 been as good as the kuh-chuk-chuk-chuk of a 
 railroad locomotive to them. The miners, 
 with frost-encrusted beards, were so many 
 Father Christmases who rarely forgot to bring 
 a present of a nugget when they came. 
 
 With the coming of spring, an old Califor- 
 nian took the baby in his arms while the 
 brother and sister followed at his heels up the 
 hill-side to his bench claim. He showed them 
 to a log, where they sat very gravely while he 
 unfolded to them a mighty scheme. In return 
 for three kisses apiece, one to be delivered 
 when the bargain was struck and two when 
 the goods were delivered, he agreed to build 
 for them a small rocker, so that they could 
 start a Mining Company (Limited) on their 
 own account. 
 
 Their dividends were large until one of the 
 laymen found out that they were using the 
 best portions of his dumps. Then the total 
 income fell to a dollar a day, which the boy ex- 
 plained was due to laxness on the part of the 
 president — his elder sister — and gross negli- 
 gence on the part of the assistant manager — the 
 baby — who insisted upon turning the gold pan 
 bottom side up at critical moments. Their 
 
 131 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 father played the part of the unskilled laborer, 
 and sometimes when he was ordered to work 
 he said, '* In a minute ! " an excuse which had 
 to be accepted. The time came when the old 
 Californian could no longer keep his joke to 
 himself. 
 
 " Meenach, seems to me I 'member tellin' 
 the youngsters that you'd carry water for 'em 
 to work the rocker with," he chuckled. 
 
 It was by a diversion from my programme that 
 I spent the next night with Voss. His name 
 was not on my list, and I had never heard of it 
 until I drifted into his cabin. I was attracted 
 by his speech, which sounded a little unnatural 
 in a community where expressions are intended 
 to convey a meaning and not to subserve the 
 rules of grammar. Despite his education, Voss 
 was an old-timer among old-timers, greeting 
 them all by their first names. The most fero- 
 cious of them, out of whose mouths an oath 
 rolled with the ease and deliberation of their 
 tobacco smoke, regarded him as a personal 
 friend. 
 
 " He looks stuck up, but he ain't stuck up,' 
 they said. '' He's clean all the way down and 
 all the way through and game as a grizzly bear, 
 and we know. We've followed him on the trail." 
 
 132 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 The sincere fellowship which he felt for them 
 in return belongs to that philosophy which 
 makes of the young men of old but impover- 
 ished families, good and cheerful prospectors, 
 ranchers, and cowboys. Not in fancy — which 
 misled so many poor souls among the Chee- 
 chawkos — but in fact, they prefer the indepen- 
 dent life of a mining camp to working for a sal- 
 ary in a city ; prefer washing their own dishes 
 and rising at 3 a.m., and harnessing the dogs to 
 start on the trail to going to an office every 
 morning and leaving it every afternoon at a 
 certain hour. By all the manners that stamp 
 the man, Voss was a child of civilization, and 
 such a child as was equal to carrying out his 
 determination not to return to it until he was 
 master in his own right of the little luxuries 
 that keep the taste of ashes out of the mouth. 
 Often he spoke of these, then ran his hands 
 into the pockets of his overalls, took a pull at 
 his pipe, and looked at his dumps with an 
 anticipation as keen as that of some naval cap- 
 tain of Drake's day in sight of the chalk cliffs 
 of England, after years in foreign countries on 
 rations of hard biscuit. 
 
 '* But even before I carry out my plans of 
 travel," he said, " I shall buy a ranch, where I 
 
 133 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 shall have a home with no other habitations in 
 sight ; where I shall have a good saddle-horse 
 waiting for me, whenever I shall grow tired of 
 town. Once you have become accustomed to 
 the silence of the plains, the mountains, and the 
 trail, mere country houses will not satisfy you 
 — something gets into the blood." 
 
 **You all catch it, I see," I interrupted. 
 ** Joe Staley says it's like rheumatiz' and it gets 
 not into the blood but into the bones." 
 
 " Yes, bones — blood and bones, both ! " was 
 the reply. 
 
 He had four retainers, who lived in his 
 cabin: the boy, the Archdeacon, Jim, and 
 Grouse, the fox-terrier. The boy was sixteen 
 or seventeen. He had gone to the Klondyke, 
 against his parents' wishes, to find himself non- 
 plussed by the necessity of a food supply for 
 the winter months. Voss put him on his feet. 
 The Archdeacon was of the Established Church 
 and a graduate of Oxford. He did not seem 
 to be, but he must have been, older than the 
 boy, for he was gray and the father of three 
 children. Shortly after he was ordained arch- 
 deacon the something had "got into " his blood 
 and bones, and he vacillated between the 
 church and travel until his meanderings brought 
 
 134 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 the promise of a brilliant career to the guar- 
 dianship of a flock of Indians, halfway around 
 the world. He baked the best bread that I 
 ate in the Klondyke. Though he accepted 
 praise on that score as quietly as he did every- 
 thing else, I could see that it pleased him — 
 better, perhaps, than the praise of a bishop. 
 In getting breakfast, which he had taken upon 
 himself as one of his tasks, his slippered feet 
 moved about so softly that you were not awak- 
 ened until his voice called you at the right 
 moment. 
 
 " It is good to see many kinds of men and to 
 do many things," he volunteered, as he lifted a 
 flapjack from the skillet to my plate. ** When 
 all the world was going to the Klondyke, I had 
 to join the throng. I got a lay on Bonanza 
 and put some men to work on it. But, unfort- 
 unately, I had no food for myself. Mr. Voss " 
 — the Archdeacon never omitted the Mister — 
 ** asked me to come and live with him through 
 the winter. What a pity it is that there isn't 
 such a good fellow as Mr. Voss to take care of 
 every unfortunate fellow like me ! " 
 
 Jim, in the language of the Klondyke, was a 
 ** sour-dough stiff," and he was certainly an 
 unhappy man. A ** sour-dough stiff" will, 
 
 135 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 under no circumstances, eat baking-powder 
 bread. This eccentricity, developed in the 
 later years of a prospector's life, generates 
 others which are its natural companions. He 
 thinks that baking powder in the smallest 
 quantity is poisonous, and, therefore, is as 
 finicky and miserable as any other man who 
 becomes a victim of dyspepsia through forever 
 thinking of some means to avoid it. 
 
 In addressing his employer Jim uttered the 
 word *' Voss" in a harsh voice, as if calling at- 
 tention to its nudity and implying that he 
 would not subvert his rights as a free man by 
 using " Mister," though he were to hang for it. 
 He was the first to rise in the morning and he 
 always prepared his own breakfast. 
 
 " Some folks don't like my cookin', an' I 
 don't like some folks' cookin', either," he ex- 
 plained. 
 
 On some occasions, when he felt a little lazy, 
 he would condescend to eat at the table with 
 the others, but with an expression of martyr- 
 dom on his thin, old face. Voss told me that 
 Jim would probably confide to me at the first 
 opportunity how grossly the claim was mis- 
 managed, and so he did. Voss forgave his ec- 
 centricities partly because they amused him 
 
 136 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 and his friends, and partly because Jim was an 
 expert in saving fine gold from floating down 
 to the waste pile. 
 
 Jim's contempt for the Alaskan miner's 
 knowledge of sluicing was pleasant to hear un- 
 less you had to hear it often. He had a minia- 
 ture sluice for treating the residue which con- 
 tains the lighter particles. It were better to 
 step on the hem of your wife's skirt on the way 
 to the theatre than to lay your hands on this 
 fine gold machine, as he called it. Whether or 
 not it was worth the time that Jim had spent 
 in building it, was a grave question with Voss. 
 
 In making the " clean-up " Jim was the gen- 
 eral in charge of the field. The best-natured 
 men on the claim were selected to assist him, 
 and even their patience sometimes gave out. 
 Voss himself, accompanied by the fox-terrier, 
 who was general superintendent of the claim, 
 winter and summer, used to take up his station 
 at the water gate. He did not always inter- 
 pret Jim's orders satisfactorily, and I overheard 
 this grumbling complaint : 
 
 '' A man can't play with a dog an* pay 
 'tention to business at the same time." 
 
 Everybody about the claim except Jim was 
 the slave of the fox-terrier's moods. In New 
 
 137 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 York or London you could have bought 
 Grouse for five dollars. Voss was offered $200 
 for him by another claim owner, but would as 
 soon have parted with his claim. I knew of 
 only one other terrier in the Klondyke. He 
 was a companion, deserving the affix of bull, of 
 a doggy-looking man who walked up and down 
 the river front of Dawson. He was usually 
 limping on three legs, but not infrequently on 
 two. He seemed to realize his position as the 
 sole representative of civilized dogdom among 
 thousands of savages, and he no more thought 
 of surrender than a Roman prefect. The boast 
 of his master that he could whip any two or 
 three of the huskies was well founded. Even 
 when he was attacked by a dozen he gave more 
 wounds than he received, retreating with the 
 dignity of one who belongs to a ruling race. 
 
 Provincial as Voss's claim was in its isolation 
 from the world, its surroundings were cosmo- 
 politan enough. Among his employees, aside 
 from Germans, Swedes, and French-Canadians, 
 were a Dalmatian and a Turk. The Turk was 
 a good workman. When he had made his 
 ** stake " he was going to buy a fig orchard in 
 southern California. 
 
 On the day that I visited the discovery claim 
 133 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 of Siawash George, which is only a short dis- 
 tance beyond Voss's, several Cheechawkos 
 were panning some gravel at the very point 
 where Indian Charlie had found the famous 
 nugget. They did not wash out a single color, 
 and passed on in disgust to do more prospect- 
 ing on ground whose stakes— for the most part 
 fallen down — had been driven so long ago that 
 the weather had washed oil the writinp- on 
 
 o 
 
 their four hewn sides. Siawash George had 
 expended several thousand dollars in buying 
 and bringing an old boiler and engine up to 
 his claim from Forty Mile. Owing to a fatal 
 defect in its pumping gear it would not sup- 
 ply half a sluice-head of water or do the work 
 of a small dam ; but the noise of its puffing 
 and his ability to hire an engineer to superin- 
 tend it at $15 a day greatly amused a mind 
 which had become aboriginal from family asso- 
 ciations. 
 
 Money playing an important part in the 
 politics of Alaska as well as in other countries, 
 poor George had acquired a fortune only to 
 find that it was two-edged and might be an ob- 
 stacle, as well as instrumental, in the fulfilment 
 of his royal ambition. On a fatal day he had 
 brought from Dawson to his wife some little 
 
 139 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 brown things in a box which was lettered in 
 gilt. She had found them so superior to plain 
 brown sugar that they had opened a new world 
 to her. She gave over her rights to a throne 
 to dream of the day when she should take pas- 
 sage on a Yukon steamer to the land where 
 shops were filled with chocolate bonbons. 
 
 Joe Powers was a near neighbor of Siawash 
 George. As both had squaw wives there w^as 
 a bond of union between them, and they visited 
 back and forth a great deal. Joe could not 
 read or write, I was told, but his good fellow- 
 ship shone out of his ever-grinning face. 
 
 *' Some of the boys I knowed down in Circle 
 and Forty Mile that's struck it big," he told 
 me in confidence, ''is going into s'ciety when 
 they get on the outside. But I ain't. How I 
 would look in s'ciety, wouldn't I ? The rest 
 of the boys are about on the same pattern, too, 
 I guess, only they can't see it when they look 
 into a pool of water. I'm thankful I know 
 them dodgers on the outside are too clever for 
 me. I'll buy a fruit farm in Calif orny. No- 
 body can beat me out o' that." 
 
 However dangerous a little learning may be 
 to some of the old-timers, one does not envy 
 them their dust, spend it how they will. It is 
 
 140 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 fitting that they who bore the brunt of the 
 robust business of pioneering should occupy 
 the cabins of the masters on the Eldorado and 
 the Bonanza claims. Graduates of colleges 
 and universities, who work for them with pick 
 and shovel for a dollar an hour, arrived on the 
 scene after the great strikes, and must take the 
 consequences. 
 
 It is scarcely half a mile from Siawash 
 George's to the cluster of cabins at the mouth 
 of Eldorado ; and Eldorado flows into Bonanza 
 about midway of its working claims, making of 
 The Forks, as the confluence of the two 
 streams is called, the hub of a wheel with three 
 spokes. When Miss Mulrooney came up to 
 The Forks in the autumn of 1897 she appre- 
 ciated the mathematical advantage of the sit- 
 uation at once, and acted upon her perception 
 with such decision that the news of her won- 
 derful undertaking went up and down the 
 creeks that very day. 
 
 '' Boys," said the heralds to the scoffers, 
 " there's a new woman up to The Forks with 
 a bit of an Irish brogue and the tongue of a 
 lawyer, that's goin' to show us old moss-backs 
 how to get rich. Hanged if she ain't got so 
 much money to lose that she's goin' to build a 
 
 141 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 two-story hotel bigger'n any in Dawson right 
 up here on the creeks." 
 
 ** Strange things was to be expected from 
 the Cheechawkos once the news of a strike got 
 into the newspapers all over the States," said 
 the scoffers ; while the saloon-keepers, being 
 specialists on the subject, apprehended with 
 professional disdain that Miss Mulrooney 
 might as well start a hotel at the head of the 
 Stewart or at the North Pole. 
 
 The next instalment of news related that 
 Miss Mulrooney was up on the hill-side super- 
 intending the labors of the one lone mule sur- 
 viving of those brought down the river on 
 rafts in the summer, which she had hired for 
 $20 a day to drag logs to the site of her 
 building. That class of women who are too 
 common in the Klondyke are not given to 
 this sort of thing ; and, moreover, they wear 
 bloomers, while Miss Mulrooney wore long 
 skirts. A new woman deserved punishment 
 for such folly, but a good woman who wore 
 long skirts was entitled to the friendly advice 
 which one of the leading claim-owners under- 
 took to supply. 
 
 ** I've been in the country some time," he 
 told Miss Mulrooney, "and I don't mind tell- 
 
 142 
 
Miss Mulroonev of The Forks. 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 ing you for your own interest that Dawson's 
 the place, not The Forks, for a hotel." 
 
 ** Now, that's kind of you," assented Miss 
 Mulrooney. '* And may I ask if you would 
 like something to drink ? " 
 
 " Er-r-r, well," stuttered the Committee of 
 One, as he tried to get his bearings, " well, I 
 admit I sometimes do, like the most of the 
 boys — but I didn't know as you'd be mention- 
 in' that." 
 
 *' Oh, I'm not, and I'm not likely to," with 
 a toss of her head, '' when I know there's no 
 chance of your accepting. Of course, if you 
 or any of the other boys was hungry or thirsty 
 you wouldn't think of buying a drink or a 
 meal up here. You'd walk sixteen miles to 
 Dawson and back for it, wouldn't you ? And 
 the boys going over the divide to Dominion or 
 Sulphur when they break the journey at The 
 Forks would hang up in a tree over night be- 
 fore they'd sleep in a hotel, wouldn't they, now?" 
 
 A light burst upon the Committee of One. 
 
 ''You'll pass. Miss Mulrooney, you'll pass," 
 he said. ''You kin take care o' yourself all 
 right. With that head of yours, you'll own the 
 Klondyke by the time you've been in the coun- 
 try as long as I have." 
 
 143 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 And the word that Miss Mulrooney was all 
 right was passed along the line. Every man 
 on the creeks looked forward to the date of the 
 opening of her hotel. A democratic commu- 
 nity could not confer titles, but it might call her 
 Miss Mulrooney of the Forks, and thus she 
 will be known for all time among Klondykers. 
 
 Meanwhile, she expected that every day 
 would be the lone mule's last. There was 
 neither hay nor oats in the country. As the 
 story was told to me, he held body and soul to- 
 gether on birch bark and willow sprouts until 
 the final log was dragged to the foundations, 
 and then promptly expired. 
 
 ** He had nothing to live on," as Miss Mul- 
 rooney expressed it, " and nothing to live for, 
 and I'm thinkin' the poor fellow was so slow 
 because he just knew that his interest in the 
 enterprise was all that kept him up ; and, like 
 the rest of us, he wanted to postpone the last 
 hour as long as he could." 
 
 The third night after the hotel was opened 
 the Committee of One, himself, had to sleep 
 on the floor because the bunks were all taken. 
 Nothing could have served Miss Mulrooney 
 better than the food-panic of midwinter. She 
 had bought a full supply before everyone be- 
 
 144 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 gan to hoard whatever beans or flour or 
 whiskey he could get. All but two of the 
 restaurants in Dawson had to close their doors. 
 The two exceptions on fete days gave butter 
 and apple sauce along with bacon, beans, and 
 coffee. Their owners grew to regard Miss 
 Mulrooney as their animate consciences whose 
 voice was that of every miner who ate a meal 
 in Dawson when he was down from the creeks. 
 
 " I don't mind paying double," said the Com- 
 mittee of One, to a Dawson waiter, " s'long 
 's I get suthin to eat. Just bring that din- 
 ner over again. Then I'll have only half a 
 square meal for $5, not to mention that no 
 fixin's go with it. Miss Mulrooney charges 
 $3.50 for a square, but she gives you canned 
 beef, canned mutton, and ham, and fixin's, and 
 keeps askin' you if you won't have more and 
 you keep acceptin' till you have to send for 
 a drink 'fore you're strong enough to get up 
 from the table. Jumpin* John Rogers 1 How 
 you fellers must suffer when you pass out a 
 bean and a rind and think of what a woman 
 is doin' up there to The Forks ! " 
 
 If you want to reach a man's heart through 
 his stomach in a scurvy-stricken country, feed 
 him, if it is the best you have, with sauce made 
 
 145 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 of dried apples. Miss Mulrooney kept a great 
 bowlful of this on her table. The transient 
 ate of its contents with the ravenousness of 
 the thirsty traveller drinking from a spring of 
 cold water. No sooner was it emptied — 
 I know by actual observation of a quart of 
 apple-sauce having been eaten by two persons 
 — than it was filled again by the cook, rapid 
 if rough in his movements, who picked it up 
 and put it down as if it were a red-hot ingot. 
 
 The ground floor of the hotel was divided 
 into the bar-room and the dining-room. Cards 
 were permitted, but no gaming-tables were 
 maintained. Upstairs was a tier of bunks 
 running along the wall, with a passageway be- 
 tween them. The blankets seemed cleaner 
 than elsewhere — no hotel had sheets — and the 
 bunks had curtains. Either a nice sense of 
 individuality or sheer fatigue restrained the 
 guests from removing their socks, and I have 
 known miners who were over-tired by a long 
 tramp not to remove their boots. They had 
 enough respect for Miss Mulrooney to hang 
 the soles of them over the edge of the bunk, 
 however, though, if in their dreams they should 
 participate in a stampede to some new creek, 
 their good intentions were sadly belied. The 
 
 146 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 sole occupant of a lower bunk, which was sup- 
 posed to accommodate two in case of neces- 
 sity, might be awakened at any hour by a 
 nudge, and : 
 
 " Pardner, sorry to trouble you, but I guess 
 you'll have to move over a bit to make room 
 for me." 
 
 In winter the curse of a Klondyke cabin, 
 banked with snow, chinked with moss and 
 dirt to the last crack and knothole, is lack of 
 ventilation. In summer, when there is no 
 night and no two men quite agree on their 
 hours of sleep or hours for travelling, it was 
 as good as reading a local newspaper to try 
 to sleep at Miss Mulrooney's. The widening 
 cracks between boards of fir (put into the 
 floors and partitions while yet green) never 
 permitted the slightest details of conversation 
 over the card-table or over the bar to be in- 
 audible, except during unavoidable and scarcely 
 welcome intervals when you heard the tramp- 
 ing and scuffling of heavy boots. I could dis- 
 cern the direction the traveller was going upon 
 entering the dining-room door ; whether he 
 was coming up stairs to bed, or was going to 
 call out to the cook for a *'squar " or '' half a 
 dozen eggs." 
 
 147 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 Andrew, a quiet, soft-voiced, obliging young 
 man, who wore a white shirt and was solici- 
 tous about keeping his tie straight, had charge 
 of the bar. According to all the traditions of 
 new placer mining camps he was as much out 
 of place as the average bartender would be in 
 a chair of moral philosophy. He was so es- 
 sentially lacking in combativeness that no one 
 ever thought of picking a quarrel with him. 
 Luck and whiskey, however, despite the North- 
 west Mounted Police, will generate in miners 
 a surplus energy which they are inclined to ex- 
 pend upon furniture if not upon one another. 
 Miss Mulrooney did not depend for purposes 
 of pacification upon a huge St. Bernard who 
 was always at her side when he was not draw- 
 ing her upon her sled up and down the creeks 
 in winter, but rather upon her blarney. She 
 knew when, where, and just how much to 
 
 apply. 
 
 ** I always appeal to their best instincts," she 
 said. " It's easy to lead and hard to drive. 
 That's what you men don't understand. You 
 try to drive." 
 
 I saw her theory put to the test of practice. 
 A giant who was so well on in his cups that 
 he could scarcely walk, concluded, only half 
 
 148 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 an hour after he had finished one, that he 
 wanted another meal. When it was placed 
 before him he seemed to think that the cook 
 was trying to hurt his feelings by making him. 
 eat twice, and with an oath he threw a dish of 
 stew on the floor. Miss Mulrooney happened 
 to be passing through the room at the time. 
 She stepped over to him and told him in her 
 pleasantest tone that accidents would happen. 
 
 " Accident ? " he asked, dazedly. 
 
 "Of course," she said. *' I know you're too 
 much of a gentleman to do such a thing pur- 
 posely." 
 
 " Coursh ! Coursh it was ! " he kept repeat- 
 ing, as he dropped down on to his knees and 
 tried to scrape the stew up into a little pile, 
 despite her protests. 
 
 Then out of the maze of his crippled mem- 
 ory another horror presented itself suddenly 
 and prompted him to arise. 
 
 *' Miss Mulrooney," he asked, his face very 
 red, '' did you hear me swear ? " 
 
 ** A little one — a slip," she replied. 
 
 He told her that it was only a real lady who 
 would put so liberal a construction on what he 
 called a breach of " ettykit." Fearful, never- 
 theless, that she might secretly think ill of 
 
 149 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 him, he followed her about the hotel with apol- 
 ogies and dripping hands while he kept repeat- 
 ing how a poor devil might be a little weak, so 
 rarely did a good bench claim fall to a poor 
 devil's lot, until the inner workings of his con- 
 science culminated in a full confession that the 
 plate had not been broken by accident but in- 
 tentionally. She forgave him even this, and 
 then he went up-stairs and to sleep. 
 
 '' What I want to do is to make money, you 
 may be sure," Miss Mulrooney would say if 
 you persuaded her to tell you her story. " I 
 was born in Scranton, Pennsylvania. I had 
 to earn my own living before I was out of 
 short skirts, and I kept on doing a little better 
 from one thing to another, till I was stew- 
 ardess of a steamer on the Pacific Coast. 
 There's nothing like being a stewardess to de- 
 velop your wits when you're just a bit too 
 independent for the job and you have to give 
 the passengers as good as they send when 
 they're sassy. I remember an old Englishman 
 v^ho expected me to black his boots. I told 
 him I wouldn't, and I told him if he put 'em 
 outside his door again I'd be thinkin' he was 
 wantin' ice-water and turn a pitcherful into 
 'em. He went to the captain. The captain 
 
 150 
 
GETTING ACQUAINTED 
 
 was a Scotchman and he didn't believe in put- 
 tin' on airs ; and when the captain sent for me 
 and I went to the captain's room I found the 
 old gentleman there. Before we came out I 
 had him laughin', and I'd never blacked his 
 boots, either. But runnin' errands doesn't suit 
 me. I started for the Klondyke as soon as I 
 heard of it, and like the rest Fm going back 
 either rich or broke." 
 
 The last time I saw Miss Mulrooney she 
 was in Dawson searching for a good location 
 for a hotel which was to have sheets and be 
 positively palatial. Three weeks later, so I am 
 told, it was completed. Once her first venture 
 succeeded, she had begun to speculate in min- 
 ing properties. Her position at The Forks 
 gave her exceptional opportunities for inside 
 information, and she was a '' pardner " of a 
 dozen leading citizens in as many enterprises. 
 
 ** If you ever go to Chicago or New York," 
 I suggested to her, '* the women's clubs will be 
 making a heroine of you as an example of what 
 their sex can do." 
 
 '* Not if I know it," she replied. '' They 
 won't, Fm thinkin', if they hear I sold whiskey. 
 Besides, there's nothin' new about me. I'm 
 old-fashioned." 
 
 151 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 Without abusing a much-abused word, I 
 think that Miss Mulrooney may be called a re- 
 markable woman, more particularly as her own 
 opinion of herself is quite the contrary. 
 
 152 
 
VIII 
 
 ARCTIC TRAITS 
 
 Daily Life in Dawson — Renting a Cabin — Circumventing the 
 Huskies — Joey Boureau and His Restaurant — The Faro 
 Dealer's Wife and Her Bakery — The Laundryman and 
 His Claim — Jack Beltz's Schemes — A Pair of Dreamers. 
 
 IT depends upon the season of the year 
 whether the town-site of Dawson is liquid, 
 mushy, or as flinty as frozen ground can be. 
 At one time in the summer of 1898 most of it 
 was under water. Two weeks later, the Yukon 
 having fallen some sixteen feet, this same town- 
 site w^as at a respectable height above the level 
 of the stream. The smaller sandbar on the op- 
 posite side of the mouth of the Klondyke, which, 
 out of respect to the cabins which cover an area 
 of six or seven acres, has been called Klondyke 
 City, is without the surface layer of muck which 
 held sewage as in a sponge under the noses of 
 the residents of Dawson. The good nature of 
 the fellow, known as ** Dud," who keeps the sole 
 saloon and hotel at Klondyke City, was as 
 
 153 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 largely responsible for our choice of abode as 
 the healthfulness of the location. Empty cab- 
 ins were scarce. "Dud" said he had one to 
 rent. When I asked him the price, I offended 
 him. 
 
 ** You walk right in and stay till I tell you to 
 get out," he said. '' But if you go shakin' your 
 dust in my face I won't let you have it at all." 
 
 So we stood our sleds up beside the door, set 
 up our little Yukon stove, threw our blankets 
 on the floor, and were at home. The comfort 
 of my daily existence I felt to be great com- 
 pared with a bunk in a bunk-house for $2.50 a 
 night, or a room with cloth partitions over a 
 bar for $10 a night. 
 
 Fritz, who liked movement and life, went over 
 to town to live in the cabin of a friend, leaving 
 Jack and me to do our own cooking or to eat 
 at the restaurant when we were of idle mind. 
 The dogs also patronized the restaurant with- 
 out standing on ceremony. ''Jack " carried off 
 almost the last ham in the camp, having lifted 
 it from a nail with the unostentatiousness of 
 an expert thief. The proprietors of the res- 
 taurant would not listen to reimbursement. 
 They explained that anybody who had been 
 in the country for six years and let a husky 
 
 154 
 
ARCTIC TRAITS 
 
 dog get the better of him deserved to be mulct- 
 ed. It is out of deference to the husky dog 
 that the miner builds little caches, set on poles, 
 for storing food, which make the town look 
 like a Bornese village, whose inhabitants have 
 deserted their old homes to live in cabins. 
 
 The proprietors of the restaurant, in my 
 opinion, were well worth knowing. Joey Bou- 
 reau — undeniably French-Canadian, but forever 
 repeating that he was a citizen of the United 
 States — was almost as dark as a Moor, with the 
 torso of a Turkish wrestler. He yielded neither 
 to excess nor fatigue, blustered at times, never 
 cared for to-morrow, and was possessed of a 
 ready wit. His blague had a counterpart in the 
 blarney of his partner, Tim, undeniably Irish 
 American and proud of it. This pair had been 
 inseparable for the many years that they had 
 sought gold with the pick and in all the ways of 
 camp life. Upon the scales at the end of the 
 oilcloth-covered dining table they weighed out 
 $2.50 worth of dust out of your bag whenever 
 you ate off their board. Whichever one hap- 
 pened to be in did the cooking, and if both were 
 in, one told stories to amuse the guests and 
 acted as cashier. 
 
 But both were seldom there. One was usu- 
 155 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 ally at "Dud's" faro table. The other, when 
 he grew tired of working brought his " pardner " 
 home on his arm, installed him in the kitchen, 
 and immediately went out to enjoy a little rec- 
 reation on his own account. As he took with 
 him whatever dust there was in the tomato-can, 
 which served as their cash-box, we heard fre- 
 quent excuses for the absence of moose steak 
 on the table because of lack of funds to pur- 
 chase it. Just as their business was beginning 
 to prosper they sold it for a song to a Chee- 
 chawko whom they met on the river-front. A 
 week in town sufficed to spend the song, and 
 then they put packs on their backs and started 
 over the hills, whistling as they went. 
 
 In one of the neighboring cabins the wife of 
 a faro dealer had set up a bakery. We paid her 
 fifty cents apiece for pies and fifty cents for 
 loaves of bread, and had to order them before- 
 hand to make sure of getting them. 
 
 Our laundryman had staked a claim in which 
 he placed great hopes ; but his invariable charge 
 remained seventy-five cents a garment. He re- 
 lated with a realism almost tragic the details of 
 the processes by which he had arrived at the 
 original color of the khaki trousers that I had 
 worn on the trail. Jack Beltz, for his part, se- 
 
 156 
 
Jack Beltz. 
 
 "The Huskies. 
 
ARCTIC TRAITS 
 
 cured the loan of an old tub and a washboard, 
 and after a day's labor surveyed bandanna hand- 
 kerchiefs and what not hung out on the line 
 with the mien of a conqueror. 
 
 Economy, however, was always a matter of 
 necessity with him. On the first night of his re- 
 turn from town he said, with some pride, that 
 he still had most of the dust which he had re- 
 ceived in conclusion of our contract. The next 
 night before going to bed he built a fire in the 
 stove out of the driftwood which he snaked out 
 of the river for fuel, and sat for a long time in a 
 reverie. 
 
 "Well, I'll have to earn some more," he 
 said, finally, to himself, and dropped upon his 
 blankets. 
 
 In the morning, followed by his troop of 
 dogs, who had regained their spirits and their 
 flesh, because he had fed them so bountifully, 
 he went up on the mountain side, where he 
 picked a great bouquet of the wild flowers which 
 spring up in such profusion in summer. He 
 never told me of his losses, and I tried to avoid 
 the appearance of suspecting the truth, at the 
 same time that I took practical measures to 
 obviate an effort to dispose of his robe for cash 
 and to hypothecate his year's outfit, which was 
 
 157 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 to be brought down the river by his " pardner," 
 Cliff. 
 
 Meanwhile, he revolved in his mind many 
 schemes for making money. The price of 
 moose steak, $1.50 a pound, suggested to him 
 that a fortune might be made in moose hunt- 
 ing. Learning that Dawson had no bowling 
 alley, he so far arranged to start one as to find 
 that balls and pins could not be obtained 
 nearer than Seattle. This scheme was suc- 
 ceeded by the more alluring prospect of taking 
 dogs, which are valueless in summer, as they 
 are valuable in winter, to an island in the river 
 to feed for so much a month. Always before 
 his dream had taken definite form he dismissed 
 it by saying he was no city man. He recalled 
 his experience in keeping the restaurant in a 
 British Columbia mining town, and he reverted 
 to a proposition that was to the liking of his 
 love of robust vagabondage : 
 
 " I'll get a pardner and take the dogs and go 
 up to the head-waters of the Porcupine and 
 cross over to the Mackenzie. It would be a 
 rattling trip ! " 
 
 As if in excuse of his venture he would add 
 that he was certain to find gold in that region. 
 
 One day another dreamer, Kidd, came to 
 15S 
 
ARCTIC TRAITS 
 
 join us. He was a proteg^ of Jack, who had 
 found him trying to put his outfit over the 
 Pass. There must have been such giants as 
 Kidd, with such straight noses, curling black 
 hair and curling black beard, in the phalanxes 
 that confounded the Persians. But this type 
 of the freshness and strength of country life 
 was quite modern. He slouched into the 
 cabin with his hands in his pockets, and in- 
 cluded in the drawl with which he greeted us a 
 Missourian '' Doggone it ! " Like many other 
 unfortunate fellows, Kidd had been obliged to 
 spend the whole winter in the neighborhood of 
 the Pass. Jack and his partner had made him 
 a tent-mate in their camp on the banks of Lin- 
 derman, during the dreary period of waiting. 
 Going on to Le Barge after our departure from 
 Linderman, he had arrived in Dawson before 
 Cliff. 
 
 "That boy comes from a good family," said 
 Jack; "and I'll bet they're proud as anybody 
 that ever had a grand-dad who owned a lot of 
 niggers and went stone broke after the war. 
 He don't say nothin' about it, but it sticks out 
 all over him. He didn't know how to hitch a 
 pack on a mule's back when I first met him. 
 But though he was green, he wasn't fresh ; and 
 
 159 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 when tenderfeet are that way they'll learn and 
 you like to learn 'em. When they ain't, you 
 like nothin' better than to give 'em the worst 
 bronch' on the ranch and leave 'em to find out 
 things for themselves." 
 
 It was not until after considerable urging 
 that Kidd would consent to share our cabin. 
 His character was in sharp contrast to that of 
 another young stranger who entered and threw 
 his blankets on the floor for the night without 
 any formalities. In the morning, picking up 
 certain articles of my kit which were lying 
 beside my bed, he said : 
 
 ** You're goin' out on the first steamer. 
 Don't suppose you want these, do you ? I'll 
 take 'em along. They'll come in handy next 
 winter." 
 
 '' He'll get on," quoth Jack, '* but I'm ding- 
 donged if he'll get on with my help." 
 
 Jack now included Kidd in his schemes, 
 which became more and more attenuated. 
 Kidd would walk back and forth for some 
 time as if in deep thought, and finally drawl : 
 
 " Gee-mo-nee ! We must do something, 
 Jack ! " 
 
 And Jack, as he looked out upon the rapidly 
 
 flowing river, would agree, and relight his pipe. 
 
 160 
 
ARCTIC TRAITS 
 
 Kidd admitted that he was homesick, ** dog- 
 goned homesick." He had a right to be, for 
 he left home with a thousand dollars and his 
 mother's blessing, instead of finishing his educa- 
 tion and studying for the country bar. 
 
 " Gee-mo-nee ! " he exclaimed. ** I was 
 green, wasn't I, Jack ? I thought you'd just 
 pick the gold up once you got here. But dog- 
 goned if I'll go back broke. I'll have as much 
 as I had when I left or stay forever. I've got 
 three hundred of that thousand and I'll make 
 seven hundred and my fare out some way this 
 winter." 
 
 One day the dreamers found employment on 
 the log booms for the new saw-mill that was to 
 be built on the island in the Klondyke between 
 Dawson and Klondyke City. Jack was as 
 much at home on a rolling log as on the back 
 of a broncho. Poor Kidd fell into the water 
 often, but showed great persistence until the 
 rise in the river made work impossible and left 
 them idle again. So Jack sat by the cabin door 
 keeping a lookout for Cliff, the third giant of 
 the trio, who arrived one day, with a broad grin. 
 
 *' Gosh ! " he exclaimed, as he grasped Jack's 
 hand. *' I was washed out of the boat when 
 we came through Five Finger Rapids, and 
 
 i6i 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 blamed if I wasn't washed in again ! How's 
 that for luck ? " 
 
 There was something of the New England 
 Yankee in him, though he had been born in 
 Colorado. 
 
 " I'll bet you've give your money all away, 
 ain't you, Jack ? " was his next remark. '* You 
 wouldn't be Jack if you hadn't." 
 
 *' Weeks ago," was the reply. 
 
 They secured a contract with one of the 
 saw-mills to cut rafts of logs sixty miles up the 
 river. Here was a chance for Jack to swing an 
 axe, to build bonfires, and to do what he called 
 an honest man's work. With his dogs around 
 him on the day of his departure I said a re- 
 gretful good-by to the vagabond. 
 
 162 
 
IX 
 
 PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 Itineraries — Alleged Unimportance of Experience — The 
 Case of Father Stanley — Press Agents and Primers 
 OF Wealth — The Secretary of the Seattle Chamber of 
 Commerce His own Convert — Pardners and Promoters 
 — Outfits — Home Comforts for an Arctic Climate — 
 Heterogeneous Boat Loads — The Nancy G — Tragedies 
 OF the Passes. 
 
 NEXT to taking part in some event chroni- 
 cled on the bulletin boards your average 
 pilgrim of fortune best enjoyed being near 
 them. Least of all he liked waiting in latitude 
 64 degrees for a month or more for news of 
 progress of the only war yet waged by his 
 country in his generation. When he left home 
 the Klondyke was the ruling general topic of 
 the hour in the newspapers. When he reached 
 his destination he was quite forgotten, and pub- 
 lic interest was entirely absorbed in the invasion 
 of Cuba. 
 
 Viewed in one light, there was good reason 
 for the pique which he naturally felt toward 
 
 163 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 Shafter's army. He might see many wars, for 
 instance, before he saw the like of this Dawson 
 pilgrimage again. Thirty-five thousand generrds, 
 each one his own quartermaster, packing a 
 thousand pounds of food apiece over a rugged 
 coast range of mountains, building a flotilla 
 with axe and whipsaw out of the primeval forest, 
 and travelling six hundred miles into a country 
 having an arctic climate in winter and a tropi- 
 cal climate in summer and yielding no food ex- 
 cept a little game, presented a spectacle more 
 romantic, if not so exciting, as the massing of 
 an army corps under one general, its extension 
 into a battle line, and the capture of the 
 enemy's outposts. 
 
 The old prospector from California, British 
 Columbia, Australia, or South Africa formed 
 only a small percentage of those who entered, 
 with the enthusiasm of children, a world of 
 effort quite new to them. The village loafer 
 and the ne'er-do-well son of the banker became 
 partners on the trail. Mechanics who had 
 mortgaged homes bought with savings from 
 their wages to buy an outfit, rubbed elbows with 
 broken-down speculators and business men who 
 hoped to recover all that they had lost by find- 
 ing a placer mine. The farmer, the c^erk, the 
 
 164 
 
f,^# 
 
 Oil the Pass. 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 artisan, and the city or the provincial day 
 laborer of the Eastern States, Eastern Canada, 
 and England, were as confident of success as 
 their associates who had learned in the severe 
 school of the plains, the veldt, or the bush how 
 to preserve life and health in a new country. 
 If they had not swung a lariat or a pioneer's 
 axe, they had at least beaten someone in walk- 
 ing or rowing or had gone longer without eat- 
 ing than any of their immediate friends. 
 
 Of the eighty thousand who left their homes 
 for the Klondyke in the winter of 1897- 
 98 and the spring of 1898, some thirty-five 
 thousand arrived at Dawson. The battle was 
 not always to the strong. More important 
 than physical strength were determination and 
 cheerfulness. Those who failed were as pecul- 
 iarly Anglo-Saxon as those who succeeded ; 
 for they had the restlessness which impels 
 one to seek obstacles but does not necessarily 
 provide the force to overcome them. Most of 
 those who had endeavored to reach Dawson in 
 the autumn of 1897 were stranded on one side 
 or the other of the passes, where they had to 
 wait through a dreary winter until the ice 
 which had arrested their progress should go out 
 of the river. But only a small proportion of 
 
 165 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 the whole number of pilgrims made this at- 
 tempt. The great majority planned to trans- 
 port their outfits over the passes in the early- 
 months of 1898 and build their boats on Lakes 
 Linderman and Bennett in the interval be- 
 tween good travelling in a snow-bound country 
 and the opening of navigation. 
 
 All pilgrims, whatsoever their itineraries, 
 were grist for the mills of the towns of the 
 Pacific Coast States and of British Columbia, 
 bringing welcome relief from a period of com- 
 mercial depression. Enterprising merchants, 
 chambers of commerce, and steamship com- 
 panies scattered broadcast throughout the 
 United States (whence came seventy per cent, 
 of the pilgrimage, ninety per cent, of it being 
 Anglo-Saxon) pamphlets, well written for the 
 purpose, telling ** How to Get to the Klon- 
 dyke." 
 
 The career of '* Father" Stanley, of Seattle, 
 was used as a stock illustration of the unim- 
 portance of experience to the prospector. This 
 lame old bookseller, having the enthusiasm of 
 the fanatic in place of real strength, had gone 
 to the Klondyke in the spring of 1 896. For a 
 time he worked on the bars of Stewart, 
 taking out $10 a day. If he had not been 
 
 166 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 deformed he would have packed more food 
 over the Pass. Fortunately, his supply ran out 
 in September, and on his way down stream to 
 Forty Mile, where he hoped to get more, he 
 happened to arrive at the mouth of the Klon- 
 dyke just as the first miners from Forty Mile 
 were hurrying to the scene of Indian Charlie's 
 " strike." As he could not walk as fast as the 
 others, they got all the claims on Bonanza, and 
 he had the good luck to get one of the best 
 claims on Eldorado. 
 
 A year later, returning on the treasure ship 
 that brought the news of the great strike, when 
 he entered his house with a small portion of his 
 fortune — a hundred thousand dollars in cash — 
 his good wife, as the story goes, was at the 
 washboard, where she had spent a deal of her 
 time during her husband's absence, earning a 
 living for a large family. Her customers com- 
 ing to make inquiries about their clothes were 
 told to take whatever was in the tub which 
 they could identify as their own. As for her- 
 self, she was boarding at the hotel, sending 
 such of her apparel as she had not thrown away 
 to the laundry, and, moreover, was too busy 
 with the dressmaker to attend to any trifling 
 
 details which might have concerned her past life. 
 
 167 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 " In the frozen fastnesses of the far North 
 fortunes nestle in nuggets of ghttering gold 
 for all " — but the press agents were too well 
 versed in human nature to say that these fort- 
 unes were to be had for a pleasure trip. 
 They mentioned hardships which put up a 
 price of success, thus making the nuggets more 
 attractive, and, in a sense, supporting the asser- 
 tion of their existence. Anyone who would 
 overcome the hardships might have a com- 
 petency for the trouble of thawing it out of 
 the frozen ground. No pilgrim felt himself to 
 be less courageous and vigorous than '' Father'' 
 Stanley ; and the wives of all pilgrims were 
 equally certain that, under similar circum- 
 stances, they could conduct themselves with 
 quite as much dignity as Mrs. Stanley. 
 
 As became a primer to wealth, the pam- 
 phlets told just how much it would cost to reach 
 Dawson with the all-necessary year's outfit, 
 going to the trouble, in a spirit of solicitude 
 and rectitude, of setting down opposite each 
 article of food and each utensil, whether spade 
 or gold-pan, or oakum or pitch, or nails for 
 boat-building, its cost in dollars and cents, 
 and adding up a fascinatingly small total 
 from a very tall column of figures. With a 
 
 i68 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 receipted bill for this, and having paid his fare 
 to Dyea or Skaguay, where he would disem- 
 bark on the mainland of Alaska and begin the 
 transportation of his outfit over the passes, the 
 pilgrim, although he was supposed to have ex- 
 pended only $300, needed no more money to 
 take him to his mine. 
 
 It was not to the credit of the calculations 
 of the pamphlets, and not testimony, in all if it 
 was in some instances, to the success of the 
 numerous gambling establishments that sprang 
 up at the point of mobilization of the army of 
 fortune-seekers, that the Seattle post-office did 
 an overwhelming business in money-orders in 
 December, 1897, and January and February, 
 1898. The authors of the pamphlets were not 
 called to account for their errors. Rather, 
 they received the thanks of their employers. 
 Once he was on the coast, it stood to reason 
 that while he was yet sleeping between sheets 
 and eating meals cooked by someone other 
 than himself the pilgrim would not retreat be- 
 cause he needed a few more dollars which were 
 obtainable from friends or relatives at home. 
 
 Seattle's success beyond all other towns in 
 attracting trade was due to a university gradu- 
 ate and an author of works on art. Having to 
 
 169 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 give up journalism in the East and seek 
 health in the West, after some severe tests of 
 versatility of earning a living, he became Sec- 
 retary of the Seattle Chamber of Commerce. 
 Such were the results of his knowledge of the 
 peculiarities of the Easterner, the Westerner, 
 the Canadian, and the Englishman, which he 
 incorporated in separate pamphlets, that his 
 employers continued to raise his salary from 
 week to week until the war broke out and he 
 relieved them of the embarrassing consequences 
 of their transports of generosity by resigning 
 and starting for the Klondyke himself (regard- 
 less of his doctor's advice) as a convert of his 
 own arguments. 
 
 The camp-followers of the host of individual 
 quartermasters which Seattle equipped and 
 embarked, besides the gambler and the pick- 
 pocket, included many men of elastic consci- 
 ences and elastic schemes, who had no capital 
 but were ambitious to become capitalists. 
 Those promising large dividends on properties 
 yet to be purchased or staked were common ; 
 those proposing such grand things as running 
 snow and ice locomotives over the hummocks 
 of the Yukon in winter were in some measure 
 
 distinguished. In the corridors of the crowded 
 
 170 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 hotels you overheard the consultations of 
 ''pardners" as well as the harangues of pro- 
 moters. 
 
 Sacks of flour, bacon, and beans, the chief 
 constituents of the Yukon outfit, were piled on 
 the sidewalks. In the windows of the stores 
 were samples of various improved edibles and 
 home comforts for an arctic climate. Fakirs 
 on the curbs proclaimed the merits of patent 
 sleds, portable boats, and devices for thawing 
 frozen ground. In selecting his outfit, the pil- 
 grim experienced the same emotion as the 
 young wife who furnishes a flat. When he 
 had settled on the kind of sled, the kind of 
 stove, and the kind of tent that he was going 
 to take, he faced the important question of 
 buying dogs or of drawing his own supplies 
 from Dyea or Skaguay to the lakes. If he 
 had money enough he usually fell a victim to 
 the speculators, who sold the house dogs that 
 they had shipped into Seattle, after a few days' 
 training in harness, for fifty dollars apiece. 
 
 The last article of his outfit bought, he 
 waited for his steamer to sail, while his hotel 
 bill grew apace. Liberal navigation laws, at all 
 times carelessly enforced, in these piping times 
 of prosperity became a dead letter. Every 
 
 171 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 available sailing and steam craft in the Pacific 
 marine, which is comparatively small and is 
 largely recruited from the Atlantic seaboard, 
 was called into service by the demands of the 
 pilgrimage. Fortunes were made in two or 
 three trips of vessels, which had been con- 
 demned as unseaworthy years before. To get 
 all the passengers they could carry they had 
 only to offer transportation for a pilgrim and a 
 ton of supplies at a little less exorbitant price 
 than any of their rivals. 
 
 Inexperienced pilots steered many vessels on 
 to rocks in the tortuous and narrow channels 
 between the barren and mountainous islands of 
 the Alexander Archipelago which skirt the 
 coast of British Columbia and the adjoining 
 territory of southeastern Alaska. Pilgrims not 
 yet embarked were too anxious about their own 
 departure to think of the miseries of those who 
 had suffered from exposure and lost their out- 
 fits, if not their lives. Rarely did the best 
 steamers leave within less than a week of their 
 appointed sailing time. In loading them there 
 was little discrimination or even classification. 
 Quarters of beef for the restaurants of Dyea 
 and Skaguay, dogs in crates and in leash, mules 
 and bales of hay, were put on the decks after 
 
 172 
 
be 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 the hold was filled. Considering the experi- 
 ences of a volunteer army with a single quarter- 
 master, better things were scarcely to be ex- 
 pected of a volunteer army composed entirely 
 of quartermasters. The chaos had the sole 
 attraction of not bearing the stamp of official- 
 dom. 
 
 As an example of what a pilgrim might 
 suffer, there was the case of the Nancy G. 
 When I left Seattle on February 15th, on the 
 Nancy G.'s mast still fluttered the torn ends of 
 a cloth sign with fast-fading red letters : '' This 
 fine schooner in the tow of a powerful ocean 
 tug, will positively sail for Dyea on January 
 25th." Every day the passengers went down to 
 the pier to see if their outfits were still on 
 board and to see how repairs were getting on. 
 A man with a hammer in one hand and some 
 oakum in the other came out of the hold. 
 
 ** You needn't cuss me," he said. *' A 
 schooner that's been resurrected after five years 
 in the graveyard, ain't what she was when she 
 was new, and you oughter know it. Every 
 minute I lose caulkin' up the old girl 's corn 
 out of your own crops." 
 
 Afterward they went to see the owner, who 
 received their complaints with an air of disdain, 
 
 173 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 refused to return the amount that they had 
 paid in fares for the good reason that he had 
 their signatures to a contract for January 25th 
 or thereabouts, and warned them in their own 
 interests that "thereabouts" was a very elastic 
 word. 
 
 " And I'll tell you something else," he said. 
 " If you talk to me in this way much more, I'll 
 have you up for riot. If you want to lose a 
 gold mine and go to jail, that's your business 
 and not mine." 
 
 The owner was a small man — a small man 
 who had spent his life in the new towns of the 
 West. The passengers were mostly hulking 
 Swedes from the lumber camps of Minnesota 
 and Wisconsin. They longed to lay their 
 strong hands on him for just a moment. But 
 it was hard to lose a gold mine, and they hadn't 
 enough money to pay for passage on another 
 steamer. So they slouched out of the owner's 
 presence more in sorrow than in anger. I 
 heard afterward that the Nancy G. finally 
 started on February 20th. Fate was so kind to 
 her passengers that she did not sink until the 
 return journey. They were more fortunate 
 than two hundred of their fellows, who saw 
 their outfits burned on the vessel which had 
 
 174 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 reached Skaguay just in time to have disem- 
 barked them in safety. 
 
 To meet the demands of the migration to 
 the interior, Dyea and Skaguay had sprung up 
 as quickly as a house of cards. When Indian 
 Charlie found his nugget there was no building 
 at Skaguay and only a trading-store at Dyea 
 for bartering with the Indians and furnishing 
 any supplies to an old-time prospector which 
 he had neglected to buy at Juneau. The two 
 towns are situated at the heads of either of two 
 arms of the Lynn Canal, which nature has cut 
 through the rock as man cut that of Corinth, 
 upon sandy deposits at the mouths of the 
 Dyea and Skaguay Rivers, and separated by a 
 distance of a mile in a straight line over a 
 mountain spur or of three miles around the 
 point of the spur by water. This spur, rising 
 into high peaks as it reaches the summit of the 
 main range, is a barrier separating the two 
 rivers and the two passes. 
 
 Dyea is the gateway to Chilcoot Pass, which 
 leads to Lake Linderman, and Skaguay is the 
 gateway to the White Pass, which leads to 
 Lake Bennett. They were not, as it appeared 
 to the superficial observer, trying to excel each 
 other in wickedness, but in the amount of bus- 
 
 175 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 iness that they could do. Anyone who had 
 been a resident of either town a single day 
 considered it his duty to warn you as a friend 
 against the rival town and the rival pass. In a 
 week he had become an old citizen. The small 
 proportion who were on hand for the rush of 
 the late summer and autumn of 1897 were as 
 proud as Lord Mayors. Then, thousands of 
 pack-horses, earning as high as $50 apiece 
 a day, died from the exertions to which they 
 were forced by their owners. In the win- 
 ter their bones sticking up through the snow 
 were snags to catch the sleds of the pilgrims. 
 Instead of a series of steps, the packers onChil- 
 coot had to walk around bowlders, slipping on 
 the fragments of crumbling rock, and possibly, 
 after all their exertion, reaching Linderman and 
 building their boats only to have them blocked 
 by ice half way to Dawson, where they w^ere 
 effectually stranded with their outfits. 
 
 Perhaps every fifth or sixth house in the 
 main streets was not a gambling hall or a dance 
 hall. With these and a large idle population it 
 is easy to understand how men who had a few 
 dollars in cash when they arrived were obliged 
 to sell their outfits and return home. The en- 
 forcement of law was in the hands of a United 
 
 176 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 States commissioner and three or four deputy 
 marshals. The commissioner was a gentle opti- 
 mist who spent most of his working-hours in 
 an office with a window looking out on the 
 river and the mountain side, where he might 
 see no wrong-doing. " Soapy " Smith, gambler, 
 by self-appointment, was Mayor of Skaguay and 
 General-in-chief of the Army of Disorder, com- 
 posed of characters from San Francisco and 
 Seattle, who had no money left after their 
 fare to Alaska was paid and were looking for 
 something to turn up. When an atrocious mur- 
 der was committed by one of his followers, 
 '* Soapy " told a body of protesting citizens that 
 they would better mind their own business. As 
 his army outnumbered theirs and was better 
 armed, they accepted his advice. The United 
 States sent out two companies of infantry, with 
 instructions from the authorities at Washington 
 that they should not interfere with the affairs 
 of the two towns unless there was a riot. The 
 Commissioner, seeming to regard their presence 
 as an intrusion on his rights, never asked for 
 their assistance. No murders or highway rob- 
 beries were committed within sight of his little 
 window. In time, however, ** Soapy" Smith 
 met the death that he deserved at the hands 
 
 177 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 of one of his followers, and through the efforts 
 of the merchants and the better element the 
 towns became more orderly. 
 
 Not every pilgrim who returned home was 
 the victim of gamblers and other parasites. 
 For two or three days he might stop at one of 
 the hotels until he selected the parcels of his 
 outfit from the piles which had been thrown 
 indiscriminately on the shore by common car- 
 riers in haste to have done with their contracts. 
 Then, with his tent, his stove, and a cook-book, 
 which was the gift of a baking-powder com- 
 pany, his journey began in earnest. The novelty 
 of making his first flapjacks w^ore off by the 
 time he had washed his dishes the second or 
 third time. It was not long before he came to 
 the conclusion that the fellow whom he had 
 chosen to share all of his sorrows and joys was 
 lazy. He blamed his own disinclination to rise 
 in the morning and all his little failures upon 
 him, as some men do upon their wives. When- 
 ever he had a chance he solaced his wounded 
 spirits by telling a stranger that he had put up 
 with doing all of the work of his party about 
 as long as he could. 
 
 Partnerships formed so gayly in Seattle by 
 men who thought that being a partner was be- 
 
 178 
 
PILGRIMS' TRAILS AND TRIALS 
 
 ing a playfellow, could not be expected to last 
 long at pulling sleds through the slush and go- 
 ing to bed in a robe or a sleeping-bag which 
 was cheap and inefficient, with a supper of 
 sandwiches made of sticky flapjacks and cold 
 bacon. As he grew more angry with his part- 
 ner he grew fonder of his dog. Jim might 
 beat his poor Newfoundland, who was too ner- 
 vous to pull even if he had ever been taught 
 how ; he might put up with a poor dinner ; but 
 if Tom, who was cooking, kicked the New- 
 foundland for stealing the bacon off the plate 
 or sticking his nose in the butter, it was the 
 last straw. He demanded a division of goods 
 on the spot. But quarrels seldom resulted in 
 blows, because they occurred when the men 
 were too tired to do more than join in a con- 
 test of forcible language. 
 
 It was the man who leaves the door ajar 
 at home who went to bed without washing 
 his dishes. The Easterner now learned that, 
 while he might know things that the Westerner 
 did not, the Westerner knew better than he 
 how to take care of himself. The Westerner 
 always cooked a warm supper, and dried his 
 footwear before going to work in the morning ; 
 while the self-neglect of the Easterner made 
 
 179 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 hundreds of doctors at Dyea and Skaguay the 
 busiest in the world. Spinal meningitis was 
 often the penalty of sitting down to rest when 
 dripping with perspiration without throwing a 
 coat over the shoulders. 
 
 Even after their goods were on the summit 
 of the Pass and the worst of their labors were 
 over, many pilgrims gave up the battle. One 
 by one they were thinned out until only thirty- 
 five thousand were ready with their boats when 
 the ice broke in Bennett. This far I had 
 shared their experiences and then had gone 
 on ahead. Mine was the privilege of having 
 been a Cheechawko and at the same time 
 standing on the river bank as an old-timer 
 or among old-timers, to watch the arrival of 
 the pilgrimage in its unpainted, unique flotilla. 
 
 i8o 
 
X 
 
 PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 Newspapers as Profit-Winners — Hearing about Dewey — A 
 Drop in Eggs — Market Items — Lemons against Scurvy — 
 The Mercury at iio degrees — An Averted Moving Day 
 — Industrious Scavengers — The Klondyke Itself — As- 
 pects OF Summer — Bandanna Hats and Pink Lemonade 
 — A Restaurant Trust — The Grasshoppers and the Ants 
 — Disillusions. 
 
 IT was only to be expected that the first boat 
 of the season to shoot around the bend 
 above Dawson and raise a shout which would 
 bring all the population to the shore would be 
 manned by a resident of Seattle with the name 
 of his beloved town painted on a huge streamer 
 flying from the mast. Enterprising citizens 
 of the far West such as he owned the stores 
 at Dyea and Skaguay, the pack-mules on the 
 trail, the restaurant tents which had sprung 
 up in Sheep Camp, and then, following the 
 pilgrimage on to Linderman and Bennett, 
 generally made money out of the Klondyke 
 without having to use a spade, because of their 
 
 i8i 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 knowledge of the life and necessities of new 
 communities. This proud Seattleite with the 
 boat had two hundred dozen of nominally 
 ** fresh " eggs to sell, for which he received 
 $3,600 within less than an hour after he had 
 landed. Those of the crowd who could afford 
 it hurried off to the restaurant for a '' squar' " 
 composed entirely of " ham and ". The others, 
 having to bide their time until luxuries were 
 cheaper, found compensation in the items of 
 news which were passed from tongue to tongue 
 — for it had not occurred to the Seattleite to 
 bring a newspaper with him. 
 
 '* Thought there was more money in eggs," 
 was his aggravating explanation. '"Sposed 
 you fellers wanted to eat, not read." 
 
 As he had heard it, within a week after the 
 declaration of war with Spain, the cruiser New 
 York, Captain Evans in command, had re- 
 duced the fortifications of Havana in three 
 hours. The second Cheechawko to arrive 
 assured us that this was quite untrue, and that 
 two of Admiral Sampson's squadron had been 
 sunk and the Spaniards were winning on every 
 hand. The crowd refused to believe anything 
 of the kind, and the second Cheechawko re- 
 ceived only $14 a dozen for his eggs. 
 
 182 
 
' « wmj.-" i-g gsy 
 
 t i^'-f 
 
 V 
 
 ^ 
 
 %.■ 
 
 9 
 
 ,# 
 
 >- 1^ 
 
 «:> 
 
 ->' 
 
 -^' •■■#''" 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 With the next boat came a single newspaper, 
 soiled with bacon grease. A curbstone specu- 
 lator bought it for $15, stuffed it instantly into 
 his inside coat pocket, and a few minutes later 
 was posting signs to the effect that all might 
 hear the news of Admiral Dewey's victory read 
 by paying a dollar a piece that evening. His 
 entertainment would have netted him twice as 
 much as it did if more than three hundred 
 and fifty people could have been packed in the 
 hall in which it was held. Some of the wealthy 
 men considered this proceeding an outrage on 
 personal liberty and made it a point to buy be- 
 tween them any single copy of a paper later 
 than any others that had arrived and have it 
 read at once in the streets. 
 
 Never did contrast better illustrate the com- 
 parative reliability of even the most unreliable 
 of modern newspapers. All winter the camp 
 had not had so much as a small hand printing- 
 press, and news was carried solely by word of 
 mouth. Most miners have the weakness of 
 exaggeration. With some it is unconscious. 
 Others enjoy testing a hearer's credulity. 
 Twice, up the creeks, I heard that the Conti- 
 nent had declared war against England and the 
 United States ; in the second instance, the de- 
 
 183 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 tail of an Anglo-American naval victory off the 
 coast of Bohemia perhaps was supplied. Such 
 rumors were the natural fruit of the desire of 
 Americans and Englishmen to pay compli- 
 ments to one another at a juncture when the 
 Anglo-Saxon alliance of the Klondyke was 
 quite ready, without any assistance from Lon- 
 don or Washington, to stand in arms against 
 the whole world. 
 
 Within a week some thirty boats all bring- 
 ing merchandise had arrived. In momentary 
 anxiety of being lodged on a sandbar, without 
 stopping to make camps, their crews bending 
 to the oars night and day, they had raced with 
 one another to the goal of high prices. Too 
 many had placed their speculative trust in eggs. 
 After all, there were only four hundred work- 
 ing claims, and the stomachs of each of their 
 owners, and of the chief gamblers and business 
 men, were little if any larger than that of the 
 average human being. Eggs fell in five days 
 from $i8 to $4 a dozen and finally to $3. 
 
 A stock of fine millinery and ladies' apparel, 
 sold to the women of the town, gave to 
 one fellow a profit of $5,000. The first con- 
 densed milk to arrive brought $1 a can; the 
 first butter, $2.50 a pound; the first ham, 
 
 184 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 $1.25 a pound, and the first sugar, $1.50 a 
 pound. Lemons were more in demand in a 
 scurvy-ridden country than oranges and ba- 
 nanas and sold for double their price, which 
 was seventy-five cents apiece. But the happiest 
 of all the newcomers was the one who had the 
 only boat-load of boots for a community which 
 was miserable in moccasins in warm weather. 
 He received $15 a pair for fifteen hundred pairs 
 which had cost him $1.75 a pair in Montreal. A 
 five-cent bottle of ink cost $1 ; a fifteen-cent 
 golf cap, $2.50; a pen-holder, fifty cents — the 
 smallest amount of dust that anyone cared to 
 weigh out ; socks $2 a pair ; a broad-brimmed 
 summer hat, $20 to $40 ; a small whisk broom, 
 $2.50; a ready-made suit of clothes, from $50 
 to $200; canned roast beef, $2.50 a can; 
 canned oysters, a great luxury, $5 for a pound 
 or pint can, and cigars, fifty cents to $1 apiece. 
 Against the profits which such prices repre- 
 sented the speculator had to set the original 
 cost of the articles, the expense of transporting 
 them to Dyea or Skaguay and over the one 
 hundred and seventy-five miles to the foot of 
 Lake Le Barge, his own fare on a steamer out 
 of the country, and the loss of from three to 
 six months' time. 
 
 185 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 During the lull between the arrivals of the 
 few speculators from Le Barge and the main 
 body of the pilgrims from Linderman and 
 Bennett, it seemed at one time not unlikely 
 that Dawson might be carried down the river 
 and a new town established on some sandbar. 
 But there was not enough snow left on the 
 mountain sides to allow the tropical sun, shin- 
 ing eighteen hours out of the twenty-four and 
 raising the mercury to no degrees, to accom- 
 plish its apparent purpose. Never had the old- 
 timers known it to be so warm so early in May, 
 and never had they known the river to be so 
 high. They held that the Lord was displeased 
 with the prospective defilement of the country 
 by an army of " clerks, farmers, and dudes." 
 The Indians knew better. White man might 
 be very cunning in making a boat go up stream 
 by burning wood in an iron box, but Indian 
 could tell him some things besides how to kill 
 moose. Old Indian could count off on his 
 fingers some twenty years ago when the canoe- 
 ing was good on the whole town-site of Daw- 
 son. That was why Indian never lived in 
 Dawson but at Klondyke City. 
 
 Day by day we saw the water approaching a 
 few inches nearer to our door-sill. It began to 
 
 i86 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 fall just as we were thinking of putting up our 
 tent on the mountain side. Only the roofs of 
 some cabins in Dawson were above the level 
 of the stream. The suspension bridge be- 
 tween Dawson and Klondyke City, whose 
 woven wire cables were earning two or three 
 hundred fifty-cent tolls a day for their owners, 
 was carried away along with a great pile of 
 debris that it had collected. You paid fifty 
 cents for being ferried from one island to an- 
 other in the main street. Along the bank, stand- 
 ing in their boats, pike poles in hand, were those 
 easy-going ones of the inhabitants who raised 
 husky dogs for sale, did a little freighting in 
 the winter, and took naturally to odd jobs — 
 and I might say to squaw wives — now, in the 
 heyday of importance, as they rowed out in the 
 strong current and brought in a tree which had 
 been uprooted by the flood. If the tree was 
 suitable only for firewood it was probably 
 worth a quarter of an ounce, or four dollars ; 
 if large enough for sawing, half an ounce. 
 The average Klondyker's dislike for such work 
 being quite as strong as that of the average 
 man at home for scavenging, the easy-going 
 had a free field and earned enough in a few 
 days to buy winter outfits for themselves and 
 
 187 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 their families. A few had even better luck. 
 They caught portions of rafts — in two in- 
 stances whole rafts — which had slipped their 
 moorings up the river, and steering the sum of 
 two or three months' labor of men probably 
 unknown to them up to the bank, let the 
 owners of the saw-mill have it at a bargain. 
 
 A source of amusement if not of income 
 was a ditch in one of the back streets, hidden 
 under three or four inches of water. As you 
 stepped into it up to your thighs you heard a 
 roar of laughter from several men sitting on a 
 prominence near by. 
 
 ** If you don't tell your friends, pardner," 
 said one of them, *' there's room up here for 
 another, and you can enjoy yourself watchin' 
 the others tumble in." 
 
 With all the snow gone and no rainfall, the 
 Yukon fell as rapidly as it had risen. The 
 thawing and crumbling soft earth of the em- 
 bankments of the upper reaches made it mud- 
 dier than the Missouri at its worst. For drink- 
 ing water one had either to resort to the 
 rivulets on the hill-side, amber-colored from 
 the moss, or go to the Klondyke, which, once 
 sluicing was nearly finished, became so clear 
 that the bottom was visible at a depth of ten 
 
 i88 
 
u 
 
 B 
 
 ri 
 
 o 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 or twelve feet, while the eddies and rapids of 
 its current as seen from the mountain tops, 
 left a dark, comet-like streak, stretching from 
 its mouth for a distance of two or three miles 
 on the cafe-au-lait surface of the mother stream. 
 By the fifteenth of June the river-bank was 
 lined with the boats of the pilgrims, two or 
 three deep. A city of canvas, with the old 
 cabins and buildings as its heart, extended 
 until the neighboring heights were dotted with 
 tents. Knowledge of boat-building had turned 
 out to be a misfortune, if anything, for the 
 scows moved just as fast with the current and 
 proved quite as easy to manage, I was told, as 
 smaller craft pointed at both eqds. The bow 
 of each vessel bore the number which had been 
 put on by the Mounted Police when they 
 examined outfits for a second time for custom 
 purposes at Le Barge or Tagish. Beside it 
 was the name of the pilgrim's home town, of 
 his sweetheart, his wife, or his daughter, put 
 on with coal if he had no paint. From the 
 mast fluttered a red bandanna, a towel, or pos- 
 sibly some absurdly elaborate flag which had 
 been made in the idle hour between the com- 
 pletion of the boat and his embarkation. If 
 there were three in a boat, which is the best 
 
 189 
 
IN THE KLOXDYKE 
 
 working number for a Klondyke party, one was 
 in the bow on the watchout for sandbars, the 
 second was at the oars, and the third in the 
 stern with a sweep. Navigation had its perils, 
 too. The river as well as the Pass had 
 claimed its victims. You heard on every 
 hand tales of wrecks in White Horse Rapids 
 and in Thirty Mile River, whose hidden rocks 
 had proven even more dangerous than th^e 
 White Horse Rapids. Many a scow with 
 merchandise which had cost its owner his last 
 cent was split in two, and those on board 
 were thankful to find themselves on shore 
 alive. 
 
 In their camps, the pilgrims found the mos- 
 quitoes of summer worse than the cold of 
 winter. Fevers and headaches upon their ar- 
 rival in Dawson were the consequences of 
 exposure under the sun. It was even the fate 
 of a few to be taken at once to the big log 
 hospital on the hill-side which already had 
 more patients than it could accommodate ; 
 and of a part of these to be buried in the 
 little cemetery beyond the hospital, which gives 
 to relatives of the deceased the sombre satis- 
 faction of knowing that its inmates, lying at 
 a depth where the earth never thaws, are 
 
 190 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 preserved for all time — unless the town-site 
 itself one day is marked by hydraulics. 
 
 Between the pilgrims when I met them in 
 Seattle and when I met them again in Dawson 
 there was all the difference of volunteers in 
 new uniforms going forth to war and the 
 dust-stained men who return. Their tents, so 
 white and new in Dyea, had patches where 
 holes had been burned by sparks or by care- 
 lessly hung candles. Their canvas bags of 
 provender were the color of the Yukon. 
 Their cheap sheet-iron stoves were so badly 
 warped that the oven had ceased to bake well. 
 Their beards were unkempt, their faces tanned. 
 The knees of their trousers proved again how 
 helpless a man is when alone with a needle. 
 Many were still wearing caps. A few had 
 made substitutes for summer hats out of wire, 
 straw, fir twigs, and a bandanna. If the Seattle 
 and the Vancouver merchants could have seen 
 the outfits which they had sold after three or 
 four months' usage, they themselves might have 
 wondered at the skill of the manufacturers in 
 making little seem a great deal by the use of 
 varnish. 
 
 Very wisely the Canadian Government had 
 provided that every pilgrim entering Canadian 
 
 191 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 territory must have eleven hundred pounds, or 
 a year's supply of food. Flour was the cheap- 
 est thing to bring an outfit that lacked two or 
 three hundred pounds up to the requirements. 
 Almost without exception the pilgrims had 
 failed to realize the importance of luxuries in 
 contributing a healthful and sustaining diet in 
 the North. Flour sold on July ist, after the 
 commercial companies began to receive sup- 
 plies, for $6 a sack, but white sugar sold 
 for fifty cents a pound. Everybody had enough 
 of staples, but many had eaten all their sugar- 
 the larger part of their dried fruits, soup prep, 
 arations, and canned delicacies and smoked or 
 chewed all of their tobacco. It was easy to 
 promise themselves on the trail that if they 
 indulged themselves in ** something good " 
 after a hard day's work they could buy more 
 of the same article in Dawson. For they w^ere 
 certain that a great many of their comrades 
 intended to sell their outfits and leave the 
 country at once — so many of their comrades 
 did. But they, too, had eaten all their butter 
 and evaporated eggs and kept any tobacco they 
 had lest they should run out of it on the way 
 home. 
 
 Pilgrims who had goods to sell hastened to 
 
 192 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 find a niche for a booth on the busy main 
 street, where you could buy peanuts and pink 
 lemonade, or the substantials of eating ; patent 
 leather shoes, yellow-backed novels, and cheap 
 jewelry, or the substantials of wearing apparel. 
 The six restaurants formed a trust and kept the 
 price of a meal up to $2.50. In furnishing 
 them with meat, the men who had used oxen 
 for drawing their outfits up to the Scales and 
 again to draw them over the lakes, now had 
 reason to laugh back at the friends who had 
 scoffed at them for thinking that any animal 
 except a dog or a mule was useful in Alaska. 
 An ox sold for $700 or $800 and was butchered 
 at once before it had a chance to eat any more 
 hay — which was worth $100 a ton — while the 
 rich men stood by to see that they got the ten- 
 derloin. Besides beefsteak, we had moose- 
 steak. One moose, who had possibly come 
 back to his old pastures out of curiosity, was 
 shot with a revolver only a mile out of town. 
 His slayer, who met him ambling along the 
 white man's trail as if he were on a stampede 
 to some new creek, sold his carcass for $500. 
 
 Carpenters got employment at $15 a day 
 on some one of the new dance halls, saloons, 
 and stores which were being built as fast as 
 
 193 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 green lumber for their construction could be 
 obtained. Pilgrims without any trade, if they 
 were wise, immediately secured logs and built 
 a cabin, which served them at once as a tem- 
 porary home, a storehouse for their supplies, 
 and assured them warmth and shelter when 
 winter should come. But the grasshoppers were 
 far more numerous than the ants. The debil- 
 itating climate of summer, joined with the in- 
 decision of whether to leave the country or 
 to remain, of whether to go down the river to 
 the American side or up the river to Stewart 
 if they did remain, supplied the majority with 
 a good excuse for idleness. Some did not 
 even put up tents on the shore, but kept house 
 in their boats which they had moored to the 
 bank. They sat on logs discussing their experi- 
 ences in shooting the rapids, and they kept 
 watch of the new arrivals for the purpose of 
 guying anyone who had started before them- 
 selves but had arrived later. 
 
 There was something pitiful as well as ri- 
 diculous in the disappointment of the pilgrim 
 who had believed everything that he read in 
 the press-agents' pamphlets, to find that a rich 
 claim was not to be had for working it. When 
 
 he put his new gold-pan and a pack on his 
 
 194 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 back and went up the trail to the creeks, where 
 possibly he found a few colors in a rivulet, the 
 old-timers laughed at him and asked him if he 
 liked prospecting well enough to pan ground 
 that was staked two years ago. If he carried a 
 revolver they begged him, please not to shoot 
 them. Wearily, and with all his visions dis- 
 pelled, he returned to Dawson. His tent was 
 no protection from the sun of midday. At 
 night the light made it difficult for him to 
 sleep. As he fried his fat bacon he could not 
 help thinking that it was just strawberry time 
 on the **. outside." 
 
 Few pilgrims had any money and those who 
 had were inclined to spend it on the luxuries 
 which their palates craved. They walked up 
 and down the main street like the crowd at a 
 country fair ; looked on at the drinking and 
 gambling of the successful miners and mar- 
 velled at the amount of dust that passed over 
 the saloon-keeper's scales ; and slouched in and 
 out of the stores of the two commercial com- 
 panies to see the bulletin board, which had the 
 list of names of men for whom letters had 
 been received. If they might not visit the 
 new variety theatre, with gambling hall and 
 bar attached, where actresses from 'Frisco and 
 
 195 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 Seattle sang the songs of a local poet contain- 
 ing spirited references to the rich claim-owners 
 — who, in return for the compliment, opened 
 champagne at $30 a bottle between the ''turns," 
 — they could at least enjoy the sights of the 
 river bank. In the absence of so great an 
 event as the arrival of a scow with mules or the 
 latest papers on board, some **pardners" were 
 either quarrelling or dividing their outfits pre- 
 paratory to selling them. With the first 
 steamer from down the river came the news 
 from Circle City, which meant a great deal to 
 the old-timers. The Cheechawkos could not 
 understand it, but, as became a crowd which 
 gets only a glimpse into the inside world, they 
 made the most of the peeps and simulated 
 intense interest. 
 
 One day a midget of a steamer, the first to 
 shoot White Horse Rapids — her parts had 
 been packed over the Pass and put together on 
 Bennett — ran in between two scows and tied up 
 so quietly that not more than three or four hun- 
 dred men saw it. Their pride was no greater 
 than the disappointment of the multitude, who 
 refused to forgive the captain until they learned 
 that his whistle was out of gear. 
 
 Next to knowing them personally, the Chee- 
 196 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 chavvkos enjoyed having the leading citizens and 
 the foremost gamblers pointed out to them. 
 They knew the story of how the Eldorado kings 
 had made their fortunes, and how Jack Smith 
 had once bet $7,000 on the turn of a card. Now 
 and then they caught a glimpse of the tall, raw- 
 boned Scotchman who was the richest man in 
 the country. Two years before he had been a 
 day laborer at Circle City. When the value of 
 Eldorado claims was an uncertain quantity he 
 bought one of the best for $800. He spent 
 all the first year's output in buying undeveloped 
 properties, and then bought still others upon 
 his promise to pay, which the miners accepted 
 without any written word. The clean-up had 
 vindicated his judgment. Now the fact that he 
 had stopped on a trail to look at a claim was sup- 
 posed to increase its speculative value. 
 
 And speculation still continued in both min- 
 ing property and real estate. A French-Cana- 
 dian who had paid $5 for a front lot just after 
 the town -site was staked still held out persist- 
 ently for $20,000, with slight prospect of getting 
 it. The ** bottom " was out of the '* boom," as 
 every man who supported himself by gambling 
 or speculation well knew. No new strikes were 
 
 made except on a few benches. None could be 
 
 197 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 made on the creeks at a season of the year when 
 the seepage from the thawing earth would fill a 
 prospect-hole as fast as it was dug. Autumn and 
 winter have ever been the time for prospecting 
 in the Klondyke, and summer the time for cabin 
 building or for taking provisions to the heads of 
 some of the tributaries in poling-boats prepara- 
 tory to prospecting. 
 
 Roughly but surely the lesson was forced 
 home to the pilgrim that a fortune cannot be 
 made in the Klondyke in a hurry. If he would 
 have a claim he must find it. Even after he has 
 found it, he must spend two or three years, un- 
 less he sells it, taking out its treasure. If it 
 were not for the humiliation of facing their 
 friends from whom they had parted with mer- 
 ry good-bys, nine out of every ten of the 
 pilgrims would have returned home at once. 
 Thirty per cent, of them did, as it was. Two- 
 thirds would have gone if many had not loitered 
 on in their tents until it was too late to go ex- 
 cept over the ice. The tenth man developed 
 those characteristics of patience and noncha- 
 lance in dealing with obstacles which the veteran 
 prospector possesses by experience and by nat- 
 ure. For such as lacked this spirit and re- 
 mained in the country there was the prospect 
 
 198 
 
PROFITS AND LOSSES 
 
 of loitering in their cabins until their supplies 
 were eaten, in the hope of getting a good claim 
 on a stampede, or of going to work for wages. 
 In all, the pilgrims must have spent $30,000,- 
 000, or $40,000,000, on outfits and transporta- 
 tion. (The output of gold in the Klondyke 
 for the year was $1 1,000,000.) But they have 
 paved the way with their failures for the devel- 
 opment of a vast expanse of country whose 
 abounding wealth is unquestioned. The hard- 
 ships of a journey to Dawson are of the past. 
 An aerial tramway, without groans or perspira- 
 tion, does the work of the packers at one-fifth 
 of the expense on Chilcoot, and a railroad car- 
 ries passengers as well as freight over the whole 
 Pass. Steamers ply on both the upper and 
 lower branches of the river connecting at White 
 Horse Rapids with others plying on the lakes. 
 Hereafter, the mines of the Klondyke will be 
 an established institution, like the mines of Cali- 
 fornia, and the prospectors who go there, better 
 fitted for their tasks. 
 
 199 
 
XI 
 
 GOVERNMENT 
 
 The Canadian Policy in the Yukon Province — Taxes and 
 Fees — The Gold Commissioner's Office — Conflicts be- 
 tween Territorial and Dominion Governments — ^Timber 
 Grants— The Value of the Mounted Police — The Newly 
 Rich at Dawson — The Order of the Yukon Pioneers — 
 Mrs. Constantine. 
 
 IN its policy the Dominion Government, 
 which took matters out of the hands of 
 the Territorial Government after the Klondyke 
 "boom" began, has apparently been largely 
 influenced by the predominance of aliens in 
 the Klondyke. At least three-fourths of the 
 2,000 men in and around Dawson in the 
 winter of 1897-98 and of the 35,000 pilgrims 
 of the spring of 1898, were citizens of the 
 United States. Naturally, the members of 
 the Canadian Parliament regarded with dis- 
 may the prospect that the new-found wealth 
 of a portion of their domain hitherto con- 
 sidered valueless was going to American mints, 
 and that their constituents would be paying 
 
 200 
 
GOVERNMENT 
 
 the expenses of administration, which, owing 
 to the isolation of the region to be governed, 
 must be comparatively expensive, for the benefit 
 of another country. 
 
 Accordingly, the placer regions of the Yukon 
 Valley lying in British territory were created 
 a special province called the Yukon District, 
 under the jurisdiction of the Dominion Parlia- 
 ment. A Commissioner, with the powers of 
 a dictator, was appointed for the District, the 
 Judge of the district alone being responsible 
 to Ottawa and not subject to the Commis- 
 sioner's orders. The other civil officials were 
 a Gold Commissioner, who had charge of the 
 recording of claims, a Crown Attorney, and 
 two Mining Inspectors for collecting the royal- 
 ties. The opportunities of the officials for 
 their own aggrandizement were exceptional 
 by reason of the system of taxation devised. 
 On the output of all claims a royalty of ten 
 per cent, was collected. Every pilgrim had 
 to take out a mining license at a cost of $io. 
 For having a claim recorded a fee of $ 1 5 was 
 charged. Every alternate claim on all new 
 discoveries was reserved to the Crown, thus 
 depriving the community of half the reward 
 of enterprise. These restrictions drove a great 
 
 201 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 many experienced American prospectors to the 
 other side of the boundary line and at the 
 same time served the inexperienced as an ex- 
 cuse for returning home. 
 
 Major J. M. Walsh, who was chosen Com- 
 missioner, did not go to Dawson in the autumn 
 of 1897. His corps of civil officials preceded 
 him while he remained behind in camp on the 
 Lewes Lakes, with a considerable force of 
 police, in order to escort to Dawson the United 
 States Relief Expedition. 
 
 Among the foremost charges of maladmini- 
 stration made against the civil officials was the 
 one in connection with the water front, data 
 of which were given to me by several leading 
 men. The Canadian law provides that the 
 main street of a new town shall be at all points 
 a certain distance from the bank of the river. 
 In order not to have a crooked main street, 
 the men who staked the town-site of Dawson 
 agreed to follow this measurement, from the 
 greatest indentation of the bank, in a straight 
 line. Those who bought lots on the main 
 street supposed that they were securing river 
 frontage, which is invaluable. The spring of 
 1898 however, saw a long row of buildings 
 whose back-doors were toward the river and 
 
 202 
 
GOVERNMENT 
 
 which faced the original row. The officials 
 had let the water-front to an individual for a 
 nominal sum in the name of the Government. 
 The sub-lessees said, with a shrug of their 
 shoulders, that they did not care to say to 
 whom they paid their heavy rents, and that 
 they were satisfied as long as they were left 
 undisturbed. 
 
 Captain Constantine, who had been trans- 
 ferred from the charge of the police at Forty 
 Mile to the same position at Dawson, was an 
 old fashioned executive. His departure in the 
 summer of 1898 was agreeable to him as well 
 as to the other officials, because he was alone 
 among uncongenial company. He understood 
 the miners ; and they knew that, though gruff, 
 he was honest and incorruptible. Even the 
 lawless ones admitted this much ; for in no 
 community is simple integrity enforced by a 
 strong will better appreciated than in a mining- 
 camp. Had he been retained as administrator 
 of the whole district, with the power to choose 
 his own assistants, Dawson would have been 
 a phenomenally well-governed settlement from 
 the start, and the development of the great 
 wealth of the region would have been less re- 
 tarded. Instead of men who had spent their 
 
 203 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 lives among pioneers, the Dominion Govern- 
 ment sent, as the reward for party service, men 
 whose experience was limited to local politics 
 at home. With hundreds of experts to choose 
 from in British Columbia, an ex-captain of a 
 whaler and an ex-livery-stable-keeper were 
 made inspectors to collect the royalty of lo per 
 cent, on an output of eleven millions of gold. 
 
 Considering the expense of recording a 
 claim, the owners of claims and the prospec- 
 tors had at least the right to expect from the 
 Gold Commissioner's Office reasonable atten- 
 tion to duty. To have posted in a public place 
 a detailed map of the district, with all claims 
 and the names of their owners recorded, would 
 have required little labor and no expense ; but 
 it would have ruined the business of the clerks 
 in furnishing information. Considering the 
 number of policemen with idle hands, mail re- 
 ceived in the summer might have been sorted 
 with dispatch and distributed at different win- 
 dows under different heads. But a delay of 
 two or three days, and the prospect of waiting 
 in line for several hours before one could even 
 ask if there was a letter for him, were strong 
 incentives, to miners who wished to hurry back to 
 
 their claims, to put a few dollars into an itching 
 
 204 
 
GOVERNMENT 
 
 palm, and in return to receive immediate atten- 
 tion at the side-door of the Post-Office. 
 
 Unfortunately the arrival of Major Walsh in 
 Dawson in the spring was not productive of 
 the reforms which an oppressed population had 
 hoped for. The acts of the officials, except 
 that of a representative of the Northwest 
 Territory in placing a tax of $2,000 each on 
 saloons and gambling-halls, seemed to meet 
 with the favor of the Commissioner. He main- 
 tained that the Territorial Government was in- 
 fringing on the special powers granted to him 
 by the Dominion Government ; and he issued an 
 order that anyone who chose might sell liquor 
 without any form of license. 
 
 The buildings on the water-front stood in 
 the way of even a primitive system of sewer- 
 age. Simple sanitary rules were not promul- 
 gated, much less enforced. Absolutely no pre- 
 cautions were taken against the epidemic of 
 fever, which was responsible for so many 
 deaths. Private beneficence built the two hos- 
 pitals, and it now maintains them and carries 
 on all charitable undertakings. Whatever has 
 been done in the way of improvements has 
 been paid for by public subscriptions. The 
 full measure of the Government's public spirit 
 
 205 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 was the construction of the barracks and stock- 
 ade for the Police on the Government Reserve. 
 Had some of the money collected from the 
 claim-owners and the prospectors been expen- 
 ded on constructing trails and on a system of 
 sanitation, there would have been less ground 
 for complaint. Doing nothing itself, the Gov- 
 ernment often took the position of the dog in 
 the manger. The exorbitant price demanded 
 for a charter forced capitalists to give up the 
 plan of building a railroad from Dawson to the 
 mines, which would have been invaluable in 
 cheapening the cost of mining. After paying 
 for timber privileges in their licenses, the pil- 
 grims found, to their dismay, that the Govern- 
 ment, or the officials, had given enormous tim- 
 ber grants in the neighborhood of Dawson to 
 individuals, thus putting an artificial value on 
 logs for firewood and building purposes. 
 
 Very properly the loudest complaints arose 
 from Englishmen, Australians, and South Afri- 
 cans. If the new laws were directed against 
 Americans, they injured Canadians and other 
 British subjects equally as much, if not more. 
 From the first, London regarded the Klondyke 
 as a great field for exploration, and most of the 
 capital represented there last spring was British. 
 
 206 
 
GOVERNMENT 
 
 The royalty of lo per cent, and the failure to use 
 the money so collected in constructing trails have 
 been, however, more injurious to capitalistic en- 
 terprise, which is largely British, than to indi- 
 vidual enterprise, which is largely American. A 
 poor man who takes from $5,000 to $50,000 out 
 of a bench-claim with his own hands will not 
 be deterred from his labors by the royalty. 
 But 10 per cent, on the gross output makes 
 a majority of company propositions impracti- 
 cable. Often it will wipe out a goodly profit, 
 and put a balance on the wrong side of the ledger. 
 As soon as it was known that the Dominion 
 Government would not heed the appeals for the 
 abolition of the royalty, the reaction from the 
 ** boom " was complete. The appointment of 
 Mr. Ogilvie, the new Commissioner, who has a 
 reputation for probity, was as welcome to the 
 aliens as to the other residents. He at once 
 set about the work of making reforms. 
 
 Too much cannot be said in praise of the 
 personnel of the Northwest Mounted Police — 
 mounted only in name, for they have not a 
 single horse in the Klondyke — which is largely 
 drawn from the ranks of the young English- 
 men who enjoy ** roughing it." In preserving 
 order they are good-natured but severe. Male- 
 
 207 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 factors are punished with the commendable 
 promptness of British justice ; and no murderer 
 in Dawson can snap his fingers in the face of 
 the law as one did at Skaguay. At Skaguay 
 there was no order ; at Dawson too much civil 
 government. 
 
 For the first winter, being populated entirely 
 by men from the old camps, Dawson was, of 
 course, largely a sociological counterpart of 
 Forty Mile and Circle City, except that the ex- 
 citement and the feverish optimism, which in- 
 creased as the new discoveries continued to 
 surpass expectations, had hitherto been un- 
 known in the valley. The contamination of 
 the old customs began with the arrival of the 
 fifteen hundred madly hastening pilgrims who 
 succeeded in reaching Dawson before naviga- 
 tion was closed in the autumn of 1897. It was 
 complete with the arrival of the great pilgrim- 
 age with its element of toughs, gamblers, and 
 other parasites. The time had passed when 
 every man nodded to whomsoever he met. 
 Dawson had become a settlement not of neigh- 
 bors, but, like Mecca, of strangers. The old- 
 timers were developing those human weak- 
 nesses which are brought out in sharp relief by 
 the sometimes doubtful blessing of great and 
 
 208 
 
GOVERNMENT 
 
 unexpected success. Practical communism 
 was easier for a man when he and his com- 
 rade were equally poor than after chance had 
 made him the owner of a plot of creek bed 
 worth from $500,000 to $1,000,000, while his 
 comrade, who had been too late in the stam- 
 pede to stake a claim on Eldorado, was among 
 his employees. 
 
 There sprang up as a consequence an aris- 
 tocratic social circle called the Eldorado Kings, 
 suffering, in a measure, from the affliction of 
 the noiLveaux riches of old communities who 
 live miserably under the suspicion that whoever 
 approaches them has an axe to grind. Yet they 
 did not forget their duties to their less fortu- 
 nate fellows. They gave bountifully to the 
 churches, to the hospitals, and for the care of 
 those poor Cheechawkos who lay ill in their 
 tents. Upon a special occasion, the Order of 
 the Yukon Pioneers — perhaps the death of a 
 comrade or perhaps a church sociable, where 
 you bought ice-cream made from condensed 
 milk for $2.50 a plate — appeared together 
 wearing broad blue ribands. Foremost among 
 them was Jack McQuestion. He was keeping 
 a trading post when the first prospectors entered 
 the Yukon Valley. The old miners came to 
 
 209 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 him to settle disputes, and the poorest of them 
 asked him for the loan of an ounce of dust. 
 
 On the day before the departure of our 
 steamer for the outside, attired in their best 
 clothes and wearing their ribands, the old- 
 timers presented to Captain Constantine an 
 address of appreciation and a peck of nuggets. 
 Then Jack McQuestion went over to the bar- 
 racks and asked that Mrs. Constantine should 
 share with her husband the central position in 
 a photographic group of all the pioneers. She 
 consented. 
 
 The Captain's wife had been her husband's 
 companion during his service on the Yukon. 
 When she was quite ill one winter and had 
 to remain in her cabin from one short day's 
 end to another — with long, dark, monotonous 
 nights between them — the kindnesses shown 
 to her were not limited to the devotion of her 
 stalwart husband or the attention of ruddy- 
 faced privates, whose Cockney accent told 
 how far they were from the motherland of 
 commonplaces and restraints. The miners who 
 came to the door to inquire how she was get- 
 ting on, devised means of entertaining her over 
 their pipes and cabin fires, and then were some- 
 times too bashful to put them into execution. 
 
GOVERNMENT 
 
 For one thing they learned by heart the con- 
 tents of some old humorous journals in camp. 
 Though she had been the first person to 
 receive the journals when they had been 
 brought down the river the preceding sum- 
 mer, she did not say so, and listened with 
 gentle patience to their jokes being retold 
 again and again. 
 
 *' Mrs. Constantine,*' said one old-timer, as 
 he bade her good-by, *' we ain't much on 
 manners, but we do know a lady when we 
 see one." 
 
 211 
 
XII 
 
 DOWN THE YUKON AND HOME. 
 
 GooD-BY TO Dawson — The Extinction of the Unfit — Steam- 
 boating TO St. Michaels — Mosquitoes and Sandbars — 
 Pilgrims by the All-Water Route— Behring Sea — Civili- 
 zation Once More. 
 
 DESPITE the diet, the isolation, and the 
 inhospitable nature of the country, many 
 of the old-timers who had now realized the 
 material ambition which had brought them to 
 Alaska and were going home, saw the great 
 crowd which gathered on the river bank to bid 
 our steamer a pleasant voyage, disappear in the 
 distance with a feeling of regret amounting to 
 more than a momentary pang. From two to 
 ten years had passed since many of them had 
 seen a paved street. 
 
 ** You'll wish you're back," and, ** You w^on't 
 feel natcheral," their departing friends called 
 out to them. 
 
 Out of deference to civilization everyone 
 had bought certain of its habiliments. New 
 
 212 
 
DOWN THE YUKON AND HOME 
 
 red ties stood out on the background of black 
 sweaters, and crumpled overalls drooped over 
 patent leather shoes. Some had taken what- 
 ever they could find to fit them, regardless of 
 cost and incongruity. Others had halted half 
 way in making out a wardrobe because they 
 feared that they might not be getting the right 
 styles or because they got indignant at the 
 prices charged by the Dawson speculators com- 
 pared with those on the outside. 
 
 The dying woman who was the mother of 
 the first white baby born in Dawson, the sal- 
 low men who had limped down from the hos- 
 pital just before the steamer sailed, and the 
 Cheechawkos who had sold their outfits for 
 just enough to pay for passage to Seattle, 
 where they would have to telegraph home for 
 railway fare — these had no regrets. We bur- 
 ied the woman half way down the river, two 
 of the men before we reached St. Michaels, 
 and a third at sea when only two days from 
 Seattle. 
 
 With good accommodations, the journey of 
 eighteen hundred miles from Dawson to St. 
 Michaels would have been a pleasure trip. It 
 was far from that with us, owing to the Span- 
 ish-American war and certain other reasons. 
 
 213 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 The commercial company which charged us 
 $300 for transportation had two steamers at 
 Dawson. It held them there long enough to 
 give us the questionable satisfaction of seeing 
 the steamer of the rival company, which had 
 been delayed in coming up the river from its 
 winter quarters, arrive and cut prices before 
 our steamer, having room for seventy-five pas- 
 sengers, and one hundred and seventy-five on 
 board, started on ahead of her sister steamer. 
 We were to act as a reconnoitering force or 
 a buffer, or whatever you choose, for the sister 
 steamer, which had a dozen lonely, armed 
 passengers and $2,500,000 in dust on board, 
 with a view to saving her treasure from a 
 Spanish privateer if one were waiting for us 
 at the mouth of the river, as rumor from the 
 outside said. Therefore, one hundred pas- 
 sengers had to sleep on the floor of the dining- 
 room or on the lower deck among the Indians 
 and the piles of firewood. 
 
 Except when we ate, and when the steamer 
 poked its bow into the sand in front of some 
 piles of fire-wood on the bank, we could be 
 fairly comfortable lounging on the decks. For 
 the eleven days which the journey occupied, 
 we had one tablecloth for three sittings at each 
 
 214 
 
DOWN THE YUKON AND HOME 
 
 meal. As the miners had a general disregard 
 for the utility of dishes for holding things, the 
 cloth did not preserve its original color, even 
 in spots, for more than two days. Our food 
 was bad rice, bad bacon and bread, and old 
 canned roast beef, which, however, did not 
 count, as we could not eat it. If the company 
 had only allowed us to use our fingers instead 
 of forks and knives which men who were 
 "working their fare" out as waiters washed 
 indifferently, I should have been much happier. 
 By July, moreover, the little mosquitoes were 
 out. They, and not the big ones which come 
 early in the season, understand flying straight 
 to the mark with rigid lance. They bit the 
 Indians as well as the white men, but to no 
 purpose so far as making them hurry in bring- 
 ing on the wood. As soon as the steamer was 
 in midstream, the buzzing mists, which could 
 be resisted only by the finest netting drawn 
 over the head, disappeared. 
 
 Our principal stops in the eighteen hundred 
 miles were at Forty Mile and Circle City, 
 where the deserted cabins were being once 
 more occupied and there was a chance that 
 the old claims, which were good for their day, 
 would be worked again, and of a recrudescence 
 
 215 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 of the boom ; and at Minook, where im- 
 portant discoveries had been made in the past 
 winter. But we stopped also at every little 
 Indian village — to please the Indians, one pre- 
 sumed — where the inhabitants came out to 
 meet us in their light canoes and wanted to 
 sell furs and trinkets. At many of these vil- 
 lages there were mission houses. We had on 
 board a Russian priest, who had come up on 
 the steamer from Anvik and was now return- 
 ing. He was bold enough to say that he 
 thought he needed this little recreation after 
 having been two years alone among the 
 Indians. 
 
 We had left behind the great mountains 
 below Dawson, we had seen the midnight sun 
 across the vast stretches of flats below Circle 
 City, and were just congratulating ourselves 
 that our Indian pilot had led us through the 
 last of the many shallow channels in the flats, 
 when we ran on a sandbar. Our mate and his 
 Indian crew labored for twenty-four hours be- 
 fore we were off. The next day a hog chain 
 broke and our engines were helpless. For the 
 rest of the distance to St. Michaels we were 
 towed by the steamer which carried the treas- 
 ure and had the misery of seeing the fellows 
 
 216 
 
DOWN THE YUKON AND HOME 
 
 who had started two days after us and paid 
 less fare pass us on the steamer of the rival 
 company. 
 
 At St. Michaels we met three or four 
 thousand pilgrims who were going into the 
 Klondyke by the all-water route. They had 
 bought transportation for themselves and out- 
 fits of new companies which had attempted to 
 tow flotillas of river steamers built in Seattle 
 to St. Michaels. Almost invariably the river 
 steamers had been lost at sea between Seattle 
 and Unalaska, and those who depended upon 
 them for transportation to Dawson were only 
 better off than others who had attempted the 
 journey on decrepit sailing vessels that had 
 gone to the bottom. It was a little unkind of 
 our passengers, while we waited for transfer to 
 an ocean steamer, to enjoy setting before them 
 in the bluntest phrase an exaggerated account 
 of the desperate condition of all the newcomers 
 in Dawson. 
 
 Behring Sea was placid as a lake when we 
 crossed it. After two days for coaling at Una- 
 laska and after five days on the Pacific, we 
 entered Puget Sound on the morning of July 
 19th. Every one on board was thinking of the 
 
 steaks and the fruit that he would eat that 
 
 217 
 
IN THE KLONDYKE 
 
 evening for dinner. The old-timers, who had 
 heretofore resented the steward's requests that 
 they should not expectorate on the decks, were 
 a little ill at ease at the prospect of the social 
 restraint of civilization. Civilization offers 
 many advantages over Dawson or Circle City 
 for spending a fortune, to be sure, but such of 
 the old-timers as were destined to become poor 
 again — and the majority were, I think — would 
 no doubt return to the pick and the pan as a 
 wanderer returns home. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 2l8 
 
BOOKS ON OUR NEW POSSESSIONS 
 
 COMMERCIAL CUBA 
 
 A Book for Business Men 
 By WILLIAM J. CLARK 
 
 With 8 maps, 7 plans of cities, and 40 full-page illustrations, 
 and a Commercial Directory of Cuba. Large 8vo, $4.00 
 
 , , A THOROUGHLY good and useful book. We should 
 jL\ not know where to find within another pair of 
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 of sugar and tobacco growing ; and his detailed descrip- 
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 make his book one of great value for reference as well as 
 for practical guidance. In the present situation of Cuban 
 affairs it should command a wide sale. Its accuracy is 
 certainly of a high order." — New York Evening Post. 
 
 YESTERDAYS IN 
 THE PHILIPPINES 
 
 By JOSEPH EARLE STEVENS 
 
 With 32 full-paj^e illustrations from photographs 
 by the author. Seventh thousand. i2mo, $1.50 
 
 «<TV7ITH the observant and indulgent eye of an old 
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 the islands worth seeing, and has described 
 what he has seen in a most interesting manner. . . . All 
 is set forth by the narrator in a breezy, chatty way that 
 would be entertaining under any circumstances." 
 
 — Philadelphia Evening Telegraph. 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, NEW YORK 
 
THE WAR ON SEA AND LAND 
 
 THE CUBAN 
 AND PORTO RICAN CAMPAIGNS 
 
 By RICHARD HARDING DAVIS 
 
 With 117 
 4 maps. 
 
 illustrations from photographs and with 
 Tyyentieth thousand. i2mo, $1.50 
 
 ij^^TEVER has a war been reported as this has been, 
 jI>N and never has a history been written like this, 
 by one who saw it all — while the blood was hot 
 and the memory vivid." — New York World. 
 
 • i'TpHIS is much the most vivid and readable of all 
 A the books on the war that have appeared so far, 
 and it is full of life and color and incidents that 
 show the sort of stuff of which our soldiers were made. 
 The book is written with a keenness, a vivacity, a skill 
 and a power to thrill and to leave an impression which 
 mark a decided advance over anything that even Mr. 
 Davis has written heretofore." — Boston Herald. 
 
 OUR NAVY IN THE 
 WAR WITH SPAIN 
 
 By JOHN R, SPEARS 
 
 Author of '• The History of Our Navy " 
 
 With 125 illustrations from photographs and 
 with charts and diagrams. i2mo, $2.00 
 
 ««\>fR. SPEARS has plainly put his best efforts into 
 iVJL that mighty combat, the sea-Gettysburg of the 
 war, the death-grapple of Cervera's ships and 
 Sampson's. His story of the action of July 3d is superb. 
 It is the most lucid and comprehensive description which 
 has yet been laid before the American people, and it is 
 made all the more valuable by the official chart of the 
 ships' courses which accompanies it. As a whole, Mr. 
 Spears's book is not only true to technical details, but it 
 IS a spirited and admirable piece of literary workmanship. 
 It is one of the few volumes out of the many hurriedly 
 issued in the wake of the war which will endure the test 
 of time and stand as a faithful, competent picture to 
 future generations." — Boston Journal. 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER^S SONS, NEW YORK 
 
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 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
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