w 
 
 Class J)k 
 
 Book l 
 
 Copyright^ . 
 
 COFVRIGHT DEPOSrT. 
 
 
 
JULY AND AUGUST 
 
 o/1914 
 
Fifty copies only have been printed. 
 This is No. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2011 with funding from 
 The Library of Congress 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/julyaugustof191400will 
 
JULY AND AUGUST 
 
 of 1914 
 
 By Mary Raymond Williams 
 
 CLEVELAND 
 
 1915 
 
■? 
 
 
 >A 
 
 (£> 
 
 COPYRIGHT 1915 BY 
 MARY RAYMOND WILLIAMS 
 
 PRESS OF 
 
 THE BROOKS COMPANY 
 
 CLEVELAN D 
 
 JAN 3 I9i6 
 
 ^ C | a j 20 1.69 
 *ilx0 - / * 
 

 Foreword 
 
 It is many months after our return from Europe that 
 we decide to print this book. The diary, for such it is, was 
 merely putting down day by day our impressions of places 
 and events and seems of very small importance for printing. 
 
 The summer of the great war, however, was an epoch- 
 making period. We were witnesses near at hand of its on- 
 coming and it is our desire to leave for our children and a 
 few dear friends the picture of those months as they appeared 
 to us. 
 
 It should be remembered that references to the war are 
 as they were made at the time, merely jottings from news- 
 paper accounts as they came to us then. Mistakes in dates 
 are largely due to the strict censorship, which allowed news 
 of many happenings to come through only after long inter- 
 vals from the actual occurrence. In the hurry of newspaper 
 make-up many names were undoubtedly misspelled. We 
 took them down as they were, dates and names, and as they 
 were we let them stand here. 
 
 E. M. W. 
 
Friday, July 3rd. 
 
 IT WAS noon when the Imperator turned her passengers 
 for Cherbourg over to the French tender, and to the tune 
 of the Marseillaise, with French flags flying, we steamed 
 away to Cherbourg. The Custom house was filled with 
 tourists and trunks, foreign language and great activity. In 
 my anxiety to pass safely through its doors, I hurriedly an- 
 nounced to the inspector that I had only "les habitants'* in 
 my trunk, meaning " ha billernent" ; the result was he looked 
 at me suspiciously and insisted on opening the trunk in- 
 stead of simply giving its lid the chalk mark which dozens 
 of other trunks had received. 
 
 Our luncheon we took at the Casino, and had our first 
 sample of fromage a la crime, the most delicious cheese I 
 have ever tasted. 
 
 At three-thirty we left Cherbourg in a Hotchkiss landau, 
 a most comfortable motor, with Frederic Charlet for our 
 chauffeur. He proved a careful driver and considerate al- 
 ways of our comfort, but I soon learned that the French rate 
 of speeding is far ahead of anything I ever dreamed of. 
 Forty-five miles was nothing to Charlet. It seemed to me 
 we were driving sixty at times until, to my relief, I heard 
 Ed telling him that if he as much as touched a chicken's 
 wing it would be all up with him as far as Mrs. Williams 
 was concerned, and he could take his car back to Paris. 
 
 We soon had our first glimpse of thatched houses 
 and the quaintest of Normandy villages, roses climbed over 
 the fronts and roofs of even the poorest dwellings, while the 
 windows were filled with geraniums in tin cans, pots and 
 boxes. The hedges along the roads were often on top of 
 
rampart-like grass walls, some of the hedges so high we 
 could not see over them. Once or twice we saw fragments 
 of walls that had been part of the fortifications protecting 
 farms in feudal days. 
 
 We passed through Valognes where the cheese that had 
 formed so delightful a part of our lunch was made, through 
 Lessay to Coutances, a most ancient town, supposed to have 
 been fortified by Constantius Chlorus in the Third Cen- 
 tury. We went into its fine Gothic cathedral, the west 
 towers of which show one of the earliest examples of fully 
 developed spire. At the end of the nave there are beautiful 
 rose windows. 
 
 We also looked into the church of St. Nicholas, Nor- 
 man and simple with finely carved choir stalls dating back 
 to the year 1620. 
 
 Granville, at the mouth of the Bosq, was our next stop. 
 The town was founded in the Twelfth Century and is most 
 picturesquely situated; its upper part is perched upon a 
 large, steep rock extending into the sea and surrounded by 
 old fortifications. It is a popular summer resort and from 
 a very modern Casino and hotel one gets a good view of 
 the sea shore. The lower part of the town is full of narrow 
 streets and small shops. We passed its Gothic Cathedral 
 of the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries and went on our 
 way to Avranches, arriving there at eight o'clock after a 
 run of one hundred and fifty miles in four and one-half 
 hours. 
 
 We drove into the curious old court-yard of the Hotel 
 de France et de Londres, our first experience in a Normandy 
 Inn, where not a word of English was spoken. All of us, 
 
GRANVILLE 
 
the proprietor included, ate at one table, the Frenchmen 
 with napkins tucked in their necks. 
 
 After dinner we took a walk through the little town, 
 the quaintest I have ever seen. We came across another 
 Gothic Notre Dame which is modern, of the Seventeenth 
 Century. Near by we walked through the Jardin des Plantes, 
 full of roses in fine bloom. From the edge of this garden, 
 just before dark, we had a glorious view across the sands of 
 Mont St. Michel, grand in its isolation upon the rock in the 
 middle of the bay. 
 
 We went to bed by candles, the only light supplied by 
 our host, but the full moon and outlook upon the enclosed 
 garden more than made up for lack of electricity. 
 
Saturday, July 4th. 
 
 We had our dejeuner in the garden close to walls cov- 
 ered with climbing pear trees. The fragrance from the 
 roses all about us was delicious although the coffee was not. 
 We should have been so charmed with the loveliness of the 
 garden that breakfast was a secondary thought, but Ed had 
 an American appetite, so to the amusement of our waiter, 
 we asked for ham and eggs in any form we could have them. 
 
 At nine-thirty in our Hotchkiss we started for Mont 
 St. Michel, arriving almost within an hour. It was a mar- 
 velous sight, that rocky pinnacle, an island when the tide 
 was in, and when it was out most dangerous to approach 
 on account of the moving quick-sands. The rock rises one 
 hundred and sixty feet above the bay, and on the highest 
 spot is the church. 
 
 We started our long climb by going up the steps of the 
 ramparts which are at the highest point of the village, and 
 on each side of us, beside the many cafes belonging to the 
 Hotel Poulard were little shops having nothing whatever 
 to do with the Abbey, but simply a means of money-making 
 for the peasants of Normandy. A large crowd of French 
 tourists had already collected and climbed the stairway of 
 the Grand Degre, so we followed them headed by a guide, 
 also French. 
 
 From the great stairway we went into the Chatelet, the 
 donjon of the Fifteenth Century, flanked by two projecting 
 turrets; then up more stairs to the Saut Gaultier, so-called 
 from a prisoner who endeavored to escape in the Sixteenth 
 Century and perished in the attempt. The adjoining church 
 begun in 1020 in the Norman style has undergone many 
 
AVRANCHES— Panorama vers la Route de Granville 
 
 COUTANCES— Le Marche au Bois 
 
changes. To Hildabert II is due the plan of building a 
 platform on the summit of the rocky cone upon which the 
 church stands, so that it could be level with the Abbey build- 
 ings. The Gothic choir is fine. From the outer gallery 
 we had a view of the central tower which was rebuilt with 
 a Gothic spire and has a bronze statue of St. Michel at a 
 height of five hundred and ten feet above the bay. 
 
 From the church, we went into the cloisters, to me the 
 most beautiful part of the entire Abbey. There are double 
 arcades with columns of carved stone showing different de- 
 signs of capitals, and all exquisitely done. 
 
 Then came in order the Refectory, a splendid room, 
 the Promenoir of the Twelfth Century and the Crypt of 
 the Eleventh. With candles we were allowed to walk a 
 few steps into the dungeons and found a little way quite far 
 enough, so filled were these passages with the blackness of 
 night. It was somewhere in one of these dungeons that the 
 iron cage was placed by Louis XV in which he imprisoned 
 Dubourg, a pamphleteer. The invention of the cage was 
 the horrible conception of Cardinal Balue, suggested to 
 Louis XL When Count Artois made his pilgrimage to the 
 Mount in 1777, he demanded its destruction, which was 
 accomplished later by King Louis Philippe. There was a 
 huge wheel in the Crypt used for hoisting provisions to the 
 kitchen when the Abbey was a prison. The Chapels of St. 
 Martin and St. Stephen of the Eleventh Century were inter- 
 esting and the Crypt of the Big Pillars is a wonder with its 
 huge nineteen columns. The Salle des Chevaliers, too, is 
 a splendid hall with pointed vaulting and fire places, inside 
 of which we stood and looked straight up the chimneys to 
 the sky above. The Almonry and the cellar below are called 
 "The Montgomeries" in memory of the unsuccessful attack 
 
in 1591 of Montgomery, leader of the Huguenots, under 
 Henry of Navarre. Montgomery's failure was due to the 
 treachery of Goupigny, supposedly his friend. 
 
 The little chapel of St. Aubert was built in memory of 
 the first founder of the Mont St. Michel. Mysterious visions 
 appeared to Aubert, the Bishop of Avranches, in the form 
 of the Archangel Michel, urging him to build an oratory 
 and do away with the Paganism then practiced on the Mont. 
 The Bishop, finally being influenced by these dreams, cut 
 a small chapel in the side of the rock in the year 708, calling 
 it the chapel of St. Michel. The Bishop was supposed to 
 have performed miracles. He removed all signs of Pagan- 
 ism and after his death, a year later, his memorial chapel 
 was erected. 
 
 It was about this time that the forests of Scissy were sub- 
 merged by a high spring tide and a small portion of the 
 Scissy woods only remains to tell the tale. The monks of 
 the Abbey, who were of the Benedictine order, found pro- 
 tection in Rollo, duke of Normandy and his successors. In 
 1066 the order sent six ships to assist William in his English 
 conquest. The Abbey was constantly enriched by the gifts 
 of the Pilgrims and the Kings who came to do penance for 
 their crimes. In the Twelfth Century, it was known as the 
 City of Books and noted as a centre of learning. In 1203 
 Philip Augustus burned the monastery then in possession 
 of the English, but rebuilt it when he became master of Nor- 
 mandy. 
 
 This Mont St. Michel was the only Norman fortress 
 that successfully defied Henry V of England. St. Louis 
 visited it in 1254 and Louis XI founded the knightly order 
 of St. Michel. Abuses then began and the Benedictines and 
 

 MONT ST. MICHEL 
 
their order were replaced by that of St. Maur which re- 
 mained until after the Revolution. The monastery then be- 
 came state property and was used as a prison until 1863. 
 Restorations are now under way at the expense of the state 
 which is making most praiseworthy efforts to keep the towns- 
 people from using the near-by land for money-making pur- 
 poses, thus spoiling the picturesqueness and taking away the 
 charm of its historical interest. 
 
 Down from the Mont once more, we lunched at one of 
 the Poulard cafes and had a very nice omelet. En route to 
 our automobile, we found a party of young American boys 
 who were wishing they could find a few fire crackers and 
 show St. Michel a real Fourth of July Celebration. 
 
 We left St. Michel at twelve-forty, passing through 
 Avranches again, then the quaint Norman towns of Ville- 
 dieu and Percy, arriving at St. Lo two hours later. Here 
 the Saturday market looked so interesting we stopped and 
 walked about among the stalls. The Normandy women, 
 young and old, dress mostly in plain black, the older ones 
 wearing stiff white caps. They drive to market in two- 
 wheeled carts ; we saw dozens of them on the road today and 
 it was not unusual to see the men taking their ease in the 
 cart while the women walked beside the horse. The Nor- 
 mandy horses are large, fine looking animals. The market 
 was filled with every useful variety of dry goods, vegetables, 
 herbs and delicious fruits. 
 
 St. Lo is on the banks of the Vire, its name being de- 
 rived from St. Laudus, an early Bishop. Charlemagne for- 
 tified the town and it was captured by the Normans and 
 English several times. We saw the Notre Dame with two 
 handsome towers of the fourteenth-sixteenth centuries. 
 
By four o'clock we had reached Bayeux. We went 
 directly to the Museum to see the much-heard-of works of 
 Mathilde of Flanders, wife of William the Conqueror and 
 her court ladies, and what an undertaking it must have been ! 
 The tapestry done on linen is two hundred and thirty feet 
 long and represents important episodes in the Conquest of 
 England, the first scene being the dispatching of Harold 
 by Edward the Confessor to tell Count William he would 
 some day be King of England, and the final picture show- 
 ing the death of Harold and the flight of the English. Above 
 and below the subjects is a border of scenes from Aesop's 
 Fables. 
 
 We drove next to the Bayeux Notre Dame, a very good 
 looking Gothic Cathedral of the twelfth-fifteenth centuries, 
 with two Romanesque towers and graceful turrets, striking 
 examples of early Gothic. 
 
 From Bayeux it was only an hour and a half to Caen, 
 the city of all cities most filled with the spirit of William the 
 Conqueror and his wife. There we saw the finest church 
 we have yet seen, Saint Pierre — Gothic. This church has 
 no transepts. 
 
 The Apse with its five Chapels and turret is a master- 
 piece of Sohier, a native of Caen. These chapels are of the 
 Renaissance period, very elaborately decorated, but the gen- 
 eral impression of the interior is one of great harmony. The 
 capitals of the huge pillars of the nave are carved with gro- 
 tesque animals. The carvings on the pulpit and beautiful 
 high altar are splendidly done. The flying buttresses, spire 
 and towers are all beautiful. 
 
 We saw from the outside only, the Abbaye-aux-Hommes 
 
 10 
 
DIVES-SUR-MER— Hostellerie Guillaume-le-Conquerant 
 
founded by William as an expiation of the sin of marrying 
 his cousin Mathilde. It was hard to get a good view of this 
 church, it is so hemmed in by other buildings, but from what 
 we could see, it was dignified and very simple. 
 
 Mathilde built an abbey for the same cause and we 
 found hers smaller than the Conqueror's; a good example 
 of the Norman type, with two square towers and another 
 pointed one from its transept. 
 
 Through the sleepy old-looking town we passed by the 
 barracks which was formerly the Castle of Caen begun by 
 William and finished by Henry I. 
 
 We reached Dives as the sun was setting and made our 
 stop at the old Inn of William the Conqueror. In its pic- 
 turesque courtyard we had tea, the largest raspberries I have 
 ever seen and rich Normandy cream. There was the love- 
 liest assortment of flowers all about us, an enormous laven- 
 dar plant in the centre and heliotrope and begonias in pro- 
 fusion. No wonder Hopkinson Smith was impelled to 
 record the charm of this inn both in picture and in story. 
 Our cordial hostess told us that Dumas used to occupy one 
 of her rooms and it is supposed to be from Dives-sur-Mer 
 that William set sail for England on his conquest of 1066. 
 
 Into fashionable and modern Deauville we drove in 
 time for a late dinner. Deauville is filled with a type of 
 summer houses which, though common along the French 
 coast, were not architecturally pleasing to us. 
 
 The Normandy hotel where we stopped was a new one, 
 attractively built on the seashore, and our rooms faced the 
 gardens, tennis courts and bathing beach. There is a very 
 
 11 
 
pretty court full of heliotrope, roses and small apple trees, 
 and from every bedroom window is a balcony filled with 
 red and pink geraniums. 
 
 Dinner was the best meal we have had since leaving the 
 Imperator, and in the evening we visited with a friend who 
 told us something of the racing season of these parts, which 
 begins the middle of the month. Deauville and Trouville 
 are then at the height of their season; rooms are engaged 
 at the hotels months beforehand and the prices are fabulous. 
 During the season six hundred automobile parties will come 
 to one hotel, and if the guest is caught unawares, not having 
 previously engaged his room, he is apt to find his bill twenty- 
 five dollars a day. The houses which we saw boarded up 
 this afternoon are then opened and overflowing with people, 
 but there is much doubt this summer as to the usual thou- 
 sands of visitors, for the French people have been quite af- 
 fected by our financial depression and money is not flowing 
 as freely with them as usual. 
 
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Sunday, July 5th. 
 
 At ten-thirty we were off, passing first through Trou- 
 ville, the twin of Deauville, with exactly the same style of 
 villas, casinos, golf and polo and the famous race course. 
 
 The shore along which we traveled through beautiful 
 woods made me think very much of our Massachusetts north 
 shore. We had miles of trees all so green they looked as 
 though they had never known a dry season. 
 
 From the woods of the summer resorts, we came upon 
 a decidedly different part of the shore, Honfleur, the quaint- 
 est little fishing town, apparently doing a profitable business 
 in fish. The people quite corresponded with the place, for 
 here we saw and heard wooden shoes clattering over the 
 cobblestones. All the markets and little shops seem to be 
 open today, and it is evidently only the larger stores which 
 close on Sunday. 
 
 Another picturesque village was Pont-Audemer, hardly 
 an hour's ride from Honfleur. It is an industrial village on 
 the river Rille and it, too, is most picturesquely situated. 
 
 I peeked inside its church of Saint Ouen, of the Elev- 
 enth Century, and a beauty, the widows of the Renaissance 
 period are exquisite. Services were going on so I did not 
 walk about. 
 
 Our next stop was a short one in which we saw the old 
 Norman ruins of St. George de Boscherville, way up in the 
 hillside, belonging at present to a rich French Count — 
 Larribeussiere. 
 
 Our descent from this height was into Rouen where 
 we arrived at luncheon time and had our first view of one 
 
 13 
 
of the grandest Gothic buildings of Normandy, though curi- 
 ously unsymmetrical in plan, the Great Cathedral 1202- 
 1220. We went off at a distance to have the full effect of this 
 facade of the sixteenth century; it is tremendously decorated 
 in the most florid style, but the towers — two of unequal 
 height, are fine, especially the higher one, the Tour de 
 Beurre. It derives its name from the fact that it is supposed 
 to have been built with money obtained from the sale of 
 butter indulgences during Lent. The Tour St. Romain 
 dates from the twelfth century and is the oldest part of the 
 building. Over the transept the tower has an iron spire 
 which would better have been left off. On the north side 
 of the Cathedral we found a court where the book stalls had 
 once been, and on this side the tympanum contains carvings 
 of the Resurrection, Last Judgment and queer, fantastic sub- 
 jects besides. 
 
 Outside the court, apparently from the side of the 
 church itself, a woman was drawing water. Altogether it 
 was the most incongruous side of a Cathedral I have ever 
 seen. 
 
 We entered the church from the court, and found a 
 French party preparing to follow a French guide, so we 
 followed too, and I saw at last the beautifully carved wooden 
 stairway I have known so well in pictures. The guide took 
 us into the Lady Chapel where are the tombs of the sixteenth 
 century. The tomb of Louis de Breze, erected by his widow, 
 Diane de Poitiers, showed us the first of Jean Goujon's work 
 we had seen; Jean Cousin, also, is supposed to have done 
 part of it. The tomb of the Cardinals d' Amboise is most 
 imposing. It is by Leroux. There are the kneeling figures 
 of the Cardinals and behind them has reliefs of St. George 
 and the Dragon, Christ, the Virgin and Six Saints, six statues 
 
 14 
 
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of the Virtues below, and above, Prophets and Apostles. 
 The whole is a real masterpiece of French Romanesque. 
 
 On one side of the nave is the tomb of Rollo of Nor- 
 mandy and opposite, his son William of the Longsword. 
 There is a very ancient figure of Richard Coeur de Lion, 
 beneath which is buried his heart. The most remarkable 
 sight in this Cathedral, supposed to be unparalleled in Eng- 
 land, is the five divisions of the nave. Pillars and arches 
 above the first pillars and arches, then a gallery upon a gal- 
 lery, and higher still the great windows. 
 
 It was two o'clock when we went into the Hotel d' 
 Angleterre, not at all attractive looking outwardly, but in- 
 side so good that we had a delicious luncheon. 
 
 Afterward we found, by walking up to the old market 
 square, a tablet marking the spot where Jean d'Arc was 
 burned, so disgraceful to the English. I felt not in the least 
 enlightened for having seen it. In the Place de la Pucelle 
 is a statue of the Maid of Orleans over a fountain. We 
 passed by another interesting looking church, Saint Ouen, 
 and looked up St. Maclou, very florid Gothic, in order to 
 see the carved wooden doors done by Jean Goujon. The 
 carving is beautiful and well worth seeing. 
 
 At three-thirty we left this interesting town and an hour 
 later stopped for tea at Vernon. 
 
 At Mantes we stopped a moment to see the Notre Dame 
 Cathedral, another of Gothic architecture dating from the 
 end of the twelfth century, with fine rose windows. It was 
 at Mantes that William the Conqueror fell from his horse 
 after the capture of the city, and later died from his injuries. 
 
 15 
 
St. Germain at six o'clock was beautiful with its attrac- 
 tive villas and looked so refreshed after the rain we had had 
 since leaving Rouen. From a hill, as we were leaving this 
 suburb of Paris, we caught our first view of this beautiful 
 city, the Eiffel Tower looming high above every other build- 
 ing. We entered by the Port Lazare and came into the 
 Bois, looking its greenest and best. All of Paris was out, 
 as though there had been no rain and the fountains were 
 going full force as if they never stopped for showers. We 
 came to the Hotel Meurice which we find very attractive 
 and comfortable. After dinner we walked through the 
 Places Vendome and de l'Opera and went as far as the 
 Madeleine. 
 
 16 
 
Monday, July 6th. 
 
 After visiting Morgan Harjes, the Banker's, we started 
 through the Tuileries gardens and the court of the Louvre. 
 We looked at the Louvre from all points, first the court with 
 its statues of Gambetta and Lafayette and others, and as Ed 
 is extraordinarily fond of statuary we made the most of all 
 those works of art. 
 
 It was interesting to see the wings of the Louvre from 
 the distance and to read, for we carried our Baedeker in 
 hand, of the history of their building, they represent the 
 works of so many kings and architects. 
 
 Our next view was from the Quai de Louvre and gave 
 us a good chance to see the work of Catherine de Medici; 
 her addition was built in 1556, is of early Renaissance and 
 very fine. We also saw the part attributed to Henry IV and 
 the passage connecting two sections of the building by Na- 
 poleon III. 
 
 We found the Quai most interesting, lined with book 
 stalls of the oldest, cheapest looking paper-covered books 
 selling for a few centimes. There were men fishing in the 
 river but apparently catching nothing, and women busy with 
 the family wash. 
 
 We walked to Notre Dame, stopped to look at the 
 bronze Charlemagne, whose horse is led by Roland, and 
 then went into the Cathedral. It was very dark but we could 
 appreciate, even without the light, the beautiful Romanesque 
 vaulting and could dimly see the graceful lines of the round 
 pillars and galleries above. While I sat down for a few mo- 
 ments by the statue of Notre Dame, at the entrance of the 
 
 17 
 
Choir, I watched many people kneel before her and bow 
 their heads in prayer. Jean d' Arc's image was near by with 
 a box for coins attached, and a few men and women came 
 to the aid of the Jean d'Arc Society by adding their mite 
 to her box. 
 
 Outside, we had a good view of the fine old fagade, the 
 work of which was finished in 1240. It is the oldest of its 
 kind, This remarkable front has three stories aside from 
 its towers. The doors are beautifully wrought in iron; in 
 the gallery above are niches containing statues of twenty- 
 eight kings of Israel and Judah. In the center, above the 
 gallery, is the Virgin and to the right and left are Adam and 
 Eve. In the Tympanum is Christ in Glory with an angel 
 holding the nails and this is a beautiful piece of the thirteenth 
 century sculpture. On the central portal is the Last Judg- 
 ment. To Viollet le Due is due the renovation of much of 
 this great work. 
 
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Tuesday, July 7th. 
 
 Having forgotten to lunch yesterday in our enthusiasm 
 over sight-seeing, we made a special point of it today and 
 were guests of a friend at the Hermitage in the Bois. The 
 garden looked so attractive that in spite of the rain we de- 
 cided on luncheon among the trees ; a little thatched roof tea 
 house made this quite feasible and our luncheon was de- 
 licious. 
 
 Afterward we watched the speckled trout of all sizes 
 swimming about in a rocky pool and meanwhile the sun 
 came out again. 
 
 Our host spent two hours in the Louvre with us and as 
 he is quite at home in its many galleries, we followed him as 
 a valuable guide. I had been reading Caffin on French 
 painting so was glad to find the works of Jean Fouquet, the 
 dominant figure of a transition period. He was painter in 
 ordinary to Charles VII and Louis XI and his portrait of 
 Charles is tremendously interesting; in his sad, ill-looking 
 face, the mixture of good and bad is so clearly portrayed. 
 
 Also in this room of the Primatifs Francais is the "Chan- 
 cellor" under Charles XII showing a character decidedly 
 forceful, such as would be expected of the Chancellor of 
 France. The "Pieta," done by the School of Avignon, shows 
 the figure of Christ, quite rigid, held by the Virgin Mother, 
 with St. John removing his crown of thorns, the Magdalene 
 standing on one side with bowed head and the priest kneel- 
 ing reverently near the head of the Saviour; the whole re- 
 markably intense in its dignity and simplicity. 
 
 We came out upon the stairway where the glorious 
 
 19 
 
Winged Victory of Samothrace stands and turned into the 
 Flemish School, the pride of our host, who is of Dutch de- 
 scent. We walked through the Rubens Hall of twenty-one 
 scenes from the life of Marie de Medici, while he called our 
 attention to the real strokes of the master and the work which 
 belongs to his atelier. He felt sure that some of the Franz 
 Hals are not real and that the Holbeins, father and son, are 
 mixed. We all agreed that the "Lecture of the Bible" by 
 Rembrant is splendid, the woman is supposedly the Mother 
 of the painter. "Christ at Emmaus," the "Angel and To- 
 bias," and especially the "Bathsheba" are fine, also "Venus 
 et Amour," Van Dyck's "Charles I" and Cornelius Van 
 Voorst's "In Trafalgar Square." The side of one of the 
 walls was covered with Snyder's animals of all sorts, there 
 were gross looking Jordaens and many works of Rubens' 
 pupils, Bol, Govaert and Flincke. 
 
 In the English room we found Constable's "Le Cot- 
 tage," and portraits by Reynolds, Gainsborough and Rae- 
 burn. In the Spanish room was the beautiful "Immaculate 
 Conception," the "Jeune Mendicant" and the "Holy Fam- 
 ily" by Murillo, Velasquez' "Phillip IV of Spain" and 
 Goya's "Young Spanish Woman," which interested us mostly. 
 
 The huge "Marriage at Cana" by Paul Veronese we 
 found in the Salon Carre. Eleanor of Austria is being 
 married to Guglielmo Gonzago and Francis I, the Sultan, 
 Mary of England, Charles V and Victoria Colonna are all 
 there. The musicians are Veronese, Titian and other Vene- 
 tian painters. Raphael's "St. Michael" is near by, Titian's 
 beautiful "Entombment of Christ," also his Francis I. Da 
 Vinci's "Mona Lisa," quite at home again after her trip to 
 Italy, drew an admiring crowd about her and a special guide 
 enlarged upon her "subtle smile" and other attractions. 
 
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We looked into the Salle des Primatifs Italiens and it 
 was good to see the Fra Angelicas, Filippo Lippis, a whole 
 series of St. Francis by Giotto, Ghirlandaio, Verrocchio, 
 Perugino and the Florentines of the fourteenth-fifteenth cen- 
 turies. Then into the Statuary Hall to give Ed a good look 
 at the Venus de Milo, ending the afternoon with tea at the 
 Pre Catalan, another of the attractive restaurants in the Bois. 
 
 At midnight we, with a party of friends, climbed the hill 
 of Montmartre and had our first glimpse of the Cafe Carrara 
 and L'Abbaye Theleme and the life which is in full swing 
 until dawn appears. 
 
 21 
 
Wednesday, July 8th. 
 
 This was our red letter day with first news from home, 
 and we spent the morning over our mail. After luncheon 
 at Rumpelmayer's, we went into the Latin Quarter, called 
 on a Beaux Arts student, walked through the Luxembourg 
 gardens, down the paths bordered by the statues of the 
 geniuses who have been honored there; Watteau, Pericles 
 and Delacroix, etc. The roses were all in bloom, the chil- 
 dren were playing a sort of lawn tennis game, one old man 
 was feeding some very tiny birds and was so much absorbed 
 in these little creatures that he seemed quite oblivious to the 
 crowd of interested spectators. We sat down not far from 
 the beautiful Fountain de Medici and willingly paid our 
 centimes to the woman who collects the price of rented park 
 chairs. 
 
 The Pantheon was already closed for the night by the 
 time we had crossed the Boulevard St. Michel, but the old 
 book stalls on both sides of the Rue Soufflot were most in- 
 teresting to see. 
 
 22 
 
Thursday, July 9th. 
 
 We took the eleven-ten train for Fontainebleau and ar- 
 riving at luncheon time, went to the France et d'Angleterre, 
 a most attractive and quaint little Inn opposite the Palace. 
 The Innkeeper's grandfather owned the place originally and 
 with it purchased five thousand old prints, many of them 
 copies of Louvre paintings, bright colored English hunt- 
 ing scenes, and humorous scenes of French Cafe life. We 
 lunched in an enclosed porch, where on a background of 
 turkey red were prints, hundreds of them, tastefully ar- 
 ranged. We found them again on the walls of the stairway, 
 again on the second floor and in the guest room. 
 
 We reached the Palace in time to follow with some 
 Philadelphia friends we met, a French guide and another 
 crowd of French sightseers. I am beginning to realize how 
 the French travel their native country and how intensely they 
 enjoy it. 
 
 The Palace stands on the site of the old chateau founded 
 by Louis VII in the twelfth century. This present palace 
 was built for Francis I. Much of the decorating was done 
 by Rossi and Primaticcio and artists of the School of Fon- 
 tainebleau. Henry IV and his son Louis XIII made many 
 additions to it, and later Louis Phillipe and Napoleon III 
 did more restoring. 
 
 Everywhere the Henrys have well advertised them- 
 selves, we saw H's all about in beautifully carved wood work 
 and many F's for the elaborate Francis. His room is lavishly 
 decorated with salamanders and beautiful tapestries. 
 
 The room of Henry II, or Salle de Bal, shows plainly 
 
 23 
 
in whose honor it was decorated. There is a handsome 
 chimney at the end of the long hall, frescoes of mythological 
 subjects and everywhere the crescent and monogram D. 
 The library, called the Gallerie de Diane, was the spot in 
 which I should like to have lingered ; it was ninety-four yards 
 in length, has thirty thousand volumes of books and was 
 founded by Napoleon III in 1855. It was interesting to see 
 the bed-room in which Louis XIII was born, also the room 
 of St. Louis, the oldest part of the Palace. 
 
 The King's stairway of marble is a beauty with its 
 statues by Jean Goujon and paintings after Primaticcio, and 
 from its windows we looked into the Cour Ovale with its fine 
 colonnades of early Renaissance. 
 
 The apartments of Marie Antoinette are filled with silk 
 hangings, Beauvais tapestry and paintings by Boucher, 
 while the bed-room of Anne of Austria is even more elab- 
 orate with not only the Beauvais tapestries but with the ceil- 
 ing and walls much ornamented. 
 
 Pope Pius XII was a prisoner in one of these apart- 
 ments ; Catherine de Medici also occupied them. Madame 
 de Maintenon did not live in quite the same luxurious sur- 
 roundings apparently, for her rooms were much simpler. 
 The Gallerie des Assiettes is an interesting idea of Louis 
 Phillipe's, its panels are made up of one hundred and twenty- 
 eight plates. 
 
 We had time for a walk about the gardens and watched 
 the greedy carp in the pond being fed, looked in vain for 
 Catherine de Medici's "C," supposed to be chained to the 
 fishes, but evidently they have lived their lives and passed into 
 the place where all good fishes go. We wandered through 
 
 24 
 
FONTAINEBLEAU— Hotel de France et d'Angleterre 
 
some of the forest paths and back again to the Inn refreshed 
 ourselves with tea. Friends took us to Paris by motor, so we 
 had the advantage of seeing more of the country on our 
 homeward route. 
 
 We had a delightful dinner at the Madrid; most of the 
 tables were under the trees and when we sat down at eight, 
 it was still daylight. Later we drove out the boulevards as 
 far as the Port St. Martin, and saw cafes upon cafes; it 
 seemed as if all of Paris had turned out to find their little iron 
 table and chairs, have a drink which lasts an hour or so, and 
 watch the crowds pass by. 
 
 25 
 
^ 
 
 Friday, July 10th. 
 
 We walked through the Court of Des Invalides, saw 
 the painting of a huge battle scene along the wall and two 
 tremendous equestrian statues of one, especially fine of the 
 horse. 
 
 At one the doors had just opened for visitors to Na- 
 poleon's Tomb and as the sun was bright, we saw the glori- 
 ous golden light from the amber windows at its very best. 
 
 In the crypt we looked at the tombs of the famous gen- 
 erals Bertrand and Duroc and again above, we saw the mon- 
 uments of the brothers of the Great Napoleon, beautifully 
 carved in stone. 
 
 We lunched at Ledoyen's on the Champs Elysees, then 
 made a tour of the Cluny Museum and enjoyed the coolness 
 of the stone steps of the old baths. It is the hottest day we 
 have had and the Cluny was deliciously cool. 
 
 This museum is filled to overflowing with the most in- 
 teresting and unique carvings, pottery, statuary, ornaments 
 of all sorts, jewels and most curious keys, large and queerly 
 wrought rings with jewels in the shape of doves and pea- 
 cocks, etc., beautiful fayence and Flemish altar pieces. There 
 is wonderfully carved furniture, tapestry and mosaics- I 
 believe every country in the world must be somehow repre- 
 sented with relics from the hundreds B.C. Among the little 
 statues were a "Christ taken out of the Tomb," beautifully 
 done, and a Marie Madeleine by a Fleming. 
 
 We drove homeward through the Rue D'Ecole de 
 Medicine full of interesting old shops, passed the Boule- 
 vard St. Germain where, as nearly as I could make out, Dan- 
 
 26 
 
ton lived. We saw his statue near by and thought of those 
 Revolutionary days and the frantic crowds which then 
 thronged these streets in their mad desire to kill the tyrants 
 who had trodden upon their liberty. 
 
 27 
 
Saturday, July 11th. 
 
 This morning the sun was still bursting with brightness, 
 but its warmth did not in the least dampen the ardour of the 
 shoppers in the Galeries Lafayette where I went. It was the 
 great bon marche day, and bargains there were of the most 
 marvelous sort. 
 
 I had a cooler hour later looking over etchings at Haute- 
 cours, and at the Cafe de Paris had so refreshing a meal that 
 we were quite ready again for the Louvre and spent an hour 
 over the statuary. 
 
 In the evening, went with Ed and a friend to the Theatre 
 Marigny where I saw every variety of dress from the simple 
 French blouse to the most beaded and elaborate decollete. 
 The dancing was good and after we had seen enough of it, 
 we went to the Bal Tabarin. There the place was crowded, 
 but we found one unengaged table in a good place to watch 
 the dancers. The South Americans seemed to be great fav- 
 orites; they have plenty of money to spend, and Paris is a 
 fascinating place in which to spend it. They dance well and 
 help considerably in adding their share of entertainment in 
 the cabarets. It did not take longer than an hour and a half 
 for me to feel that I had seen and felt all the sensations of 
 the place, but as we rose to go, a man who had been sitting 
 at a near-by table seemed much disturbed and explained in 
 good English that we were missing the best part of the even- 
 ing. The men were delighted at the sound of the English 
 suggestion of seeing more and were soon deep in conversa- 
 tion with their new friend. He was an Englishman who had 
 married a Frenchwoman and his companion turned out to 
 be his French niece. She spoke not a word of English, so, 
 
 28 
 
with all the French I could collect, we talked of the amuse- 
 ment before us and agreed that a little of this cabaret went 
 a long way with us. The niece and I felt we had a great deal 
 in common, being the only women in the place with natural 
 color and unpainted eyebrows. 
 
 Finally the event worth waiting for took place in the 
 shape of a parade of all the performers who had entertained 
 us during the evening; they walked, rode and lay upon floats 
 dazzling with gilt and artificial flowers and bright colors. 
 The confetti throwing began and continued, and was still 
 continuing as we made our way out of this centre of Parisian 
 gayety. 
 
 29 
 
Sunday, July 12th. 
 
 The day was warm and overcast as we started at noon in 
 a motor for Chantilly. Mr. S. went with us and we stopped 
 first at the chapel of St. Denis where all the French kings are 
 buried. The Basilique was built over the grave of St. Denis, 
 and under the influence of St. Genevieve, the clergy of Paris 
 built the chapel in the second half of the fifth century. Re- 
 construction took place by Pepin Le Bref in 750 and finished 
 in Charlemagne's reign. The Abbot Suger in 1121 rebuilt 
 all but the crypt and a few columns. Suger's building was 
 the first important edifice in which Gothic windows are used 
 and may be called the true starting point of that architecture. 
 In 1241 a thorough restoration was necessary and was under- 
 taken by the Abbots Clemont and Vendome, who rebuilt the 
 choir, nave and transepts — Gothic. St. Louis began the cus- 
 tom of building memorials to the kings by erecting monu- 
 ments to his ancestors. Under the Revolution of 1792 the 
 tombs were desecrated and restored again by Napoleon I 
 and Louis XVIII, but under Napoleon III the better work 
 by Violett Le Due was done. 
 
 On the tomb of Louis XII and Anne de Bretagne, the 
 King and Queen are represented on the sarcophagus lying 
 down, also above the sarcophagus kneeling. On the pedestal 
 are reliefs of Louis' Entry into Milan, the Victory of Agna- 
 dello, etc. 
 
 Then there was the tomb of Henri II and Catherine de 
 Medici built under the direction of Primaticcio. In the 
 crypt is the burial vault of the Bourbons, containing the 
 bodies of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, brought here 
 from the Madeleine cemetery, the last Princes of the House 
 of Conde and many other families of the Royalty. On the 
 
 30 
 
o 
 
 x 
 > 
 
 2 
 
 r 
 r 
 
drive to Chantilly it was rather nice to have the sky overcast, 
 for a bright sun today would have given us a great deal of 
 heat. 
 
 After a refreshing luncheon, we crossed the moat sep- 
 arating the Chateau from the ground and following in the 
 footsteps of the crowd, bought bread for the carps' Sunday 
 dinner. These fish must have a limitless capacity for food ; 
 they grabbed ours as greedily as if they had not been fed for 
 the last few hours and still they were ready for more. 
 
 The Chateau, the former home of the Conde's, is full 
 of paintings of that family, sculptures, art treasures and heir- 
 looms collected by Louis Phillipe, the last of the Conde's. 
 There were paintings by the Dutch, Italian and the French 
 of all ages; an interesting work of art was forty miniatures 
 from a Book of Hours by Jean Fouquet, going way back 
 to 1452-60. 
 
 There is a room full of gems, enamels, porcelains, 
 beautiful fayence, Nancy ware and jewels of great original- 
 ity and value. 
 
 The apartment called the Chatelet is filled with pictures 
 of hunting scenes, bear hunts, and dogs. The furniture is 
 beautifully upholstered in Beauvais tapestry. A fine library 
 containing 13,000 volumes was full of interest to us. Among 
 its treasures is a Psalter of St. Louis, 1214. 
 
 The decorative little chapel is in Renaissance, with its 
 marquetry and woodwork of 1548. The stained windows 
 are fine and there is a beautiful altar by Jean Bullant and 
 Jean Goujon. There is an imposing mausoleum of Henry 
 II de Conde, father of the Grand Conde, also a cippus con- 
 taining the hearts of several of the Conde princes. 
 
 31 
 
Monday, July 13th. 
 
 It was a very warm day and it took real energy to walk 
 to the Cafe des Ambassadeurs for luncheon, but the cool 
 porch and attractive outlook among trees and flowers fully 
 repaid and refreshed us. Afterward in the Theatre des Am- 
 bassadeurs, we saw a silly little play, where the French sense 
 of humor was curiously displayed. 
 
 Walking along the Champs Elysees, we saw prepara- 
 tions, and the real commencement of the Bastile holiday. 
 Booths of toys and balloons were beginning to fill up and 
 refreshments were served under the shade of the trees. The 
 families were all out to celebrate, babies in perambulators, 
 nurses and mothers were all there. Even though the families 
 were picnicking with lunches and bottles, the Champs Ely- 
 sees as usual looked perfectly fresh and clean. I don't know 
 of another city which could be populous with picnickers and 
 remain as well kept as is characteristic of these spots in Paris. 
 
 In the evening we went to the Opera House and heard 
 Les Hugenots; the company was French and the orchestra 
 good. The plot was particularly interesting in its allusions 
 to the Condes, the Chateau of whom we had lately visited. 
 The story is of the massacre of the Hugenots in 1572 and the 
 efforts of Margaret of Valois to reconcile the Protestants and 
 Catholics. The Condes and Colignys were leaders among 
 the Hugenots. Between the acts, we walked through the 
 beautiful Foyer and out on to the balcony where we watched 
 the crowded corner below. 
 
 We walked home through the narrow Rue du Mont 
 Thabor and as we heard music in that direction, we knew the 
 dancing had begun, and there, sure enough, the sound 
 
 32 
 
carried us to a man with a fiddle doing his best to make music 
 for his street full of dancers. We recognized some of the 
 Meurice attendants and what amazed me was the quietness 
 and simplicity of the way it is done in these back streets. It 
 must be another story at Montmartre, I understand it is hope- 
 less for a tourist to attempt to go there in a taxi while the holi- 
 day lasts; his taxi would simply be pushed aside. It is the 
 one time of the year when the beggars are allowed to be 
 abroad asking for centimes, and we met them, too, before we 
 retired for the night. 
 
 33 
 
Tuesday, July 14th. 
 
 The great Bastile day — warm and overcast. Drove to 
 the Gare du Nord with Ed and saw him off for London 
 where he went for Hilda, who was coming that far to meet 
 him from Wales. The city is gay with flags and crowds of 
 people swarm everywhere; only the little shops are open, 
 but every cafe looks most enticing. I lunched at Rumpel- 
 mayer's and my only excitement for the remainder of the day 
 was to watch the fireworks in the evening. I had a good 
 view of them from the hotel. 
 
 Wednesday, July 15th. 
 
 After the fireworks, the thunder and lightning did their 
 part in the celebration and cooled off the air considerably. 
 I spent the day letter-writing and was delighted in the even- 
 ing to find Ed and Hilda just arriving. 
 
 34 
 
Thursday, July 16th. 
 
 We took Hilda to the Louvre and spent our time with 
 the masterpieces she was most familiar with. We sat on the 
 stairway for quite a while getting a view of the beautiful 
 Victory of Samothrace from all points. On the same stair- 
 way we found Botticelli's familiar and beautiful "Three 
 Graces." We lingered quite a while in the Salon Carre, 
 going over again the "Mona Lisa," the Raphaels, Titians, 
 the huge "Marriage at Cana" and other Italian works. Then 
 through the rooms representing the schools of Florence, 
 Umbria and Parma. Among the Spanish paintings we 
 stopped to see Murillo's "Birth of the Virgin" and his pictur- 
 esque "Young Mendicant." 
 
 In the British Hall we found Constable's landscapes, 
 especially "Le Cottage," attractive in its simplicity, and some 
 good Bonington's. 
 
 In the Salle des Primatifs we found Ghirlandaio's fine 
 "Old Man and Boy," also "Christ on the way to Golgotha." 
 Then Fra Fillipo Lippi's School, the painting of "The 
 School of Anatomy" by Rembrant and the works of Rem- 
 brant's colleagues and Atelier. 
 
 We had to let the modern painting go this morning as 
 it was quite past the usual luncheon time when we came 
 down the stairway again. We had a delicious out-door 
 luncheon at the Hermitage, spent the afternoon at the Bon 
 Marche, and dined at the Cafe Madrid. 
 
 35 
 
Friday, July 1 7th. 
 
 We all spent the morning at the Luxembourg and I 
 should like to have spent a week of mornings among that 
 beautiful modern statuary. 
 
 Rodin's "Le Baiser," of course, is a masterpiece, but 
 there are so many other remarkable pieces I did not know of. 
 Dampt's "Le Baiser de l'Aieule" is the kiss of an elderly 
 woman upon a baby's head and the smile of that baby is as 
 real as if the stone had turned to flesh. Then Nissen's "Art- 
 iste" is full of expression and life. There is a great dane of 
 Lecourtier feeding her little puppies which was irresistible 
 and a very modern bust called "Le Jeune Femme," her 
 dress, hair and features quite as natural and attractive as any 
 living jeune femme one could imagine. 
 
 Among the paintings was a most unusual one of three 
 men working upon a floor with their planes. This was called 
 "Les Raboteurs des Parquets" by Gustave Caillebotte, then 
 there was Jules Breton's "Gleaners," so familiar in our 
 country ; Cottet's three scenes of " Au Pays de la Mer" and 
 Puvis de Chavannes' curious appearing "Le Pauvre Pe- 
 cheur." 
 
 Foyot's proved the nicest place to lunch in, quite con- 
 trary to its outside appearance. Afterward we had a lovely 
 walk in the Luxembourg gardens and ended with the Pan- 
 theon. 
 
 The sun was shining its best through the windows upon 
 the panels illustrating the life of the lovely St. Genevieve, 
 Chavannes' charming work of the "Shepherdess Girl" kneel- 
 ing with her sheep about her, later her conversion of Clovis 
 
 36 
 
and Clotilde and her miraculous delivery of Paris from 
 Atilla the Hun. 
 
 The vault was a dreary place but we were glad to have 
 seen the resting place of Rousseau, Victor Hugo and Presi- 
 dent Carnot and escape into the sunshine again. 
 
 37 
 
Saturday, July 18th. 
 
 Packed all morning, shopped in the fascinating Rue de 
 Rivoli shops and lunched at Rumpelmayer's. We climbed 
 to the upper balcony of Notre Dame where there is a little 
 woman who sells postals and cheap souvenirs, but I felt too 
 dizzy to count my centimes for a purchase and was so glad 
 to get down to the comfortable Rue below. 
 
 We walked to the Conciergerie especially to see the ex- 
 quisite Sainte Chapelle, a portion of the remains of the royal 
 period of the Palais de Justice. The lower part was used by 
 the domestics of the chapel, but after a climb to the upper 
 story we came to the famous stained glass windows; there 
 are fifteen of them, dating from the time of St. Louis. The 
 scenes are biblical and the radiancy of the light from them 
 was almost dazzling even on this dark afternoon. The two 
 recesses reserved for the royal family were pointed out to us 
 and it was interesting to see the little grated opening where 
 Louis XI used to attend service without being seen. 
 
 We walked down the length of one of the long galleries 
 of the Conciergerie and had glimpses of the court rooms ad- 
 joining them, but it was too late to see the dungeons of Marie 
 Antoinette and Robespierre and other noted prisoners of the 
 Revolution and Terror, nor the gallery through which the 
 poor victims took their last walk, and I was quite content not 
 to go further into their hours of wretchedness. 
 
 38 
 
PUVIS DE CHAVANNES Mural Painting in the Pantheon 
 
Sunday, July 19th. 
 
 Fine warm day. At ten o'clock we started in the Hotch- 
 kiss again with Charlet for Versailles, bidding a reluctant 
 good-bye to beautiful Paris. It is only twelve miles from the 
 city and we were at the Palace gate within an hour. We 
 found a Swiss who spoke our language so well that it was a 
 pleasure to visit the building with him. He had great pride 
 in every inch of the Palace and grew eloquent as we came to 
 the top of the great stairway where his ancestors, the brave 
 Swiss guards, had held back the mob in such noble defense 
 of their Queen, the unfortunate Marie Antoinette. From the 
 balcony above, we saw the orangery of twelve hundred trees 
 and the lake made for the Queen by her guards, then the 
 room in memory of these guards. In this room is a bust of 
 Marie Antoinette by La Conte. Then there were the apart- 
 ments of the Queen, surprisingly small but beautifully dec- 
 orated. Maria Theresa and Marie Lesczinska have both 
 slept in these same rooms and it was in these apartments that 
 we saw the original of the famous painting of Marie An- 
 toinette by Mme. Lebrun and the Marie Lesczinska by Nat- 
 tier. The walls have Gobelin tapestries. 
 
 The Galerie des Batailles is a fine large hall full of paint- 
 ings of the battles of Napoleon, many of them by Vernet, and 
 busts of fifty famous warriors who fell in battle. Among 
 the scenes of foreign war, we were glad to find Couder's 
 Siege of Yorktown in America with Washington and 
 Rochambeau. 
 
 The gardens, the Cour d' Honneur and fountains were 
 superb and as this was the first Sunday after the 14th, 
 the fountains were to play in the evening. We lunched at 
 
 39 
 
the Hotel Trianon and so did a large part of Paris, I should 
 say ; every space of that large hotel was filled both inside and 
 on the verandah. 
 
 Afterward we walked through the Petit Trianon, 
 through the pretty little woods about the lake and the rustic 
 village where the Queen played at Dairymaid with her court 
 ladies in those happy days of long ago. At three o'clock we 
 were off again through the magnificent forests of Versailles. 
 
 From out of the shadow of the woods we came upon 
 Rambouillet, the summer home of the President. This 
 chateau was where Frangois I died and where Charles X 
 signed his abdication to the throne. 
 
 Passed through Epernon, then Maintenon on the Eure, 
 from which Franchise d'Aubigne, widow of the Poet Scar- 
 ron, took her title of Marquise de Maintenon when she 
 married Louis XIV. A long stretch of road was through 
 the Plain of Beauce which can almost be called the granary 
 of France. The spires of Chartres Cathedral could be seen 
 miles away. Arriving at the town, we went directly to it, 
 and such a beauty we found it ! Of all the cathedrals I have 
 ever seen, this is the loveliest. 
 
 According to tradition the Notre Dame was built upon 
 a grotto where the Druids celebrated the worship of a Virgin 
 who should bear a child. The cathedral is Gothic of the 
 twelfth and thirteenth centuries. It is flanked by two fine 
 towers rising to a height of three hundred and fifty feet and 
 there is a richly designed spire spoken of as the most beauti- 
 ful in all Europe. On the side portals are sculptures repre- 
 senting scenes from the life of the Virgin and the Last Judg- 
 ment, wonderfully done, but in the inside, more beautiful 
 
 40 
 
H 
 H 
 
 I— I 
 > 
 
 o 
 < 
 
 en 
 > 
 
 r 
 r 
 w 
 
 en 
 
still is the choir screen with its lace tracery of stone. Other 
 cathedrals may vie with this or surpass it in many respects, 
 but this delicate lace work of stone in beauty and extent is 
 simply incomparable. Interesting, too, were the forty-one 
 sculptured groups representing the lives of the Madonna 
 and Christ. The superb rose windows, there were three of 
 them, left an impression I cannot soon forget. 
 
 From Chartres our road took us, an hour and a half 
 later, to Chateaudun. This is in much of a state of ruin and 
 was formerly the house of the good Duke Dunois. Of par- 
 ticular interest in it was a fine Gothic stairway. The gate- 
 keeper lives in a little house by the entrance and left his sup- 
 per to show us through — a hurried trip, as the evening was 
 well along. 
 
 We reached the Grand Hotel in Blois at six-fifty. 
 
 41 
 
Monday, July 20th. 
 
 It was overcast and cool when we started for Chambord. 
 Our road was by the river Loire and at eleven we drove up 
 the lovely avenue of fir trees to the Chateau. 
 
 The family of the Duke of Parma who died lately, leav- 
 ing nineteen children, keep the Chateau in good repair and 
 live in it during the hunting season. 
 
 The palace was probably built in 1526 by Pierre 
 Nepveu. We first climbed the great double stairway of two 
 parallel flights, unrolling in the form of spirals in the same 
 direction. 
 
 In the ballroom in which the Marshal of Saxony died, 
 we saw many portraits and busts of the house of Chambord 
 and among them a bronze of the Duke of Berri — 1778, son 
 of Charles V and father of the Count of Chambord, who was 
 murdered by Louvel, also a portrait of Marie Lesczinska, 
 daughter of the King of Poland, who married Louis XVI. 
 
 The oratory of Francis I is full of F's and salamanders 
 as Francis always said he loved to live in the flame of love. 
 The original door of the oratory is well preserved and curi- 
 ous. On the window pane Francis wrote in French "After 
 woman changes, he is foolish who puts his trust in her." 
 
 The drawing room was full of interesting portraits; 
 Anne of Austria, wife of Louis XIII, Maria Theresa of 
 Austria, who married Louis XIV, etc. A beautiful mantle- 
 piece of marble was well worth noting. In the Salle a 
 Manger of Louis XIV is an interesting collection, though 
 
 42 
 
CHARTRES— La Cathedrale 
 
 CHARTRES— La Cathedrale 
 
quite modern, of toy cannons and guns of all sorts with which 
 the young Count de Chambord was educated. Another in- 
 teresting room was the one in which Henry V was to have 
 lived. The exquisitely carved walnut bed and the embroid* 
 ered tapestries were prepared for his coming in 1879, six 
 years beforehand by the royal ladies of Poitou. The letters 
 H V and M T for Henry V and his wife Maria Theresa 
 were carved on the bed. His coronation robe was also in 
 readiness. Then came the Revolution and Henry felt he 
 could not accept the throne. He left France and died in 
 Austria, and so loved was he, the last of the Bourbons, that 
 over three thousand Frenchmen came to pay him the last 
 honours. 
 
 From a gallery, we saw the modern lanterne, modeled 
 from the old one which now stands in the hall below, and 
 upon the roof we had a good view of the towers of Cham- 
 bord ; it was interesting to notice the simplicity of the Tower 
 of Henry II compared with the ornamentation of the tower 
 of his father, King Francis. The stables, very numerous, 
 too, corresponding to the palace, are now used as quarters 
 for the caretakers and guides. 
 
 Back to Blois, we visited its Chateau and found it full of 
 the memories of Louis XII and Anne de Bretagne with their 
 porcupine and ermine symbols. From the court we climbed 
 the beautiful Gothic stairway of Francis I, and above, the 
 guide took us into the large room and showed us the gate in 
 front of which the Duke de Guise was talking with his 
 brother, the Cardinal of Lorraine, when he, the Duke de 
 Guise, was called aside by the cowardly Henry III. The 
 King, keeping discreetly within a little ante room, allowed 
 the guards, numbering forty-five, to do their murderous 
 work, after which he had the courage to come out and, thrust- 
 
 43 
 
ing his victim aside with his foot, say, "He seems greater in 
 death than in life." 
 
 Our guide, with gesticulations, described it all so dra- 
 matically, enlarging many times upon the fact that there 
 were forty-five men against the one poor defenseless duke, it 
 made my blood run cold and I am sure it will be the most 
 vivid picture in Hilda's mind of all we have seen today. 
 
 We went into the room of Catherine de Medici where 
 she and her astrologer mixed their poisonous drinks and hid 
 them away behind secret panels. We looked out of the win- 
 dow from which Maria Theresa, mother of Louis XIII, 
 escaped from her imprisonment, aided by the Duke d'Eper- 
 non and a rope ladder. Near-by we had a glimpse of the 
 dungeon wherein the Cardinal of Lorraine was imprisoned. 
 In this same wing of Francis I the walls are covered with 
 paper, dark blue with a figure representing the original 
 tapestries. 
 
 Lunched again at the Grand and at one forty-five started 
 for Chaumont (Warm Hill). Along the winding Loire we 
 passed through beautiful country, crossed the river and 
 stopped before the gateway of the Chateau. It is at quite a 
 height above the valley so our approach was uphill and 
 through the prettiest walk with green shrubbery and trees 
 meeting over our heads, so thickly grown that it was like a 
 well-trimmed road in the woods. 
 
 Across the drawbridge into the court, we walked out to 
 the vine-covered wall on the edge of the hill and saw the 
 valley of the Loire at its best. There was an interesting old 
 well in the court yard and we amused ourselves calling down 
 into it and hearing the echo some seconds later. We had a 
 good view of the two wings of the Chateau while we waited 
 
 44 
 
CHATEAU DE CHATEAUDUN 
 
for our guide. The east wing is lived in by the family of the 
 Prince de Broglie, the west is the wing visitors are allowed 
 to visit and it was into this part that our guide, a young 
 French girl, took us. 
 
 The winding staircase led us to the Salle des Gardes 
 which has a ceiling painted in 1539 covered with the arms 
 of Amboise and Chaumont, finely wrought andirons and 
 armor. The Salle de Conseil has a pavement of Palermo 
 tiles and splendid Brussels tapestry of the fifteenth century. 
 
 In the bed-room of Catherine de Medici are a bed, dress- 
 ing tables and chairs of most beautiful carving, and a prie 
 dieu upon which lies an open book and then there are more 
 lovely tapestries. The same room was used at one time by 
 Diane de Poitiers. In quite a small room but also filled with 
 exquisitely carved furniture Ruggiero, Catherine's astrolo- 
 ger lived. Diane's room contains her portrait, furniture and 
 bed of the sixteenth century. 
 
 From a balcony we looked down into a very pretty little 
 chapel which the Broglie family use. The portrait of Cardi- 
 nal George Amboise, who built the Chateau, hangs in the 
 chapel with his hat beside it. 
 
 Outside we looked on the two high towers at the en- 
 trance of Chaumont for the initials of the Amboise and 
 found G A upon one, the other being ornamented with C A 
 for Charles, who commenced the present Chateau after 1473. 
 Above the gateway are the initials of Anne de Bretagne and 
 Louis XII. 
 
 As we again joined the river Loire, we found the sun 
 still high so turned in the direction of Amboise, another 
 home of Anne de Bretagne. This Chateau of a most formid- 
 
 45 
 
able appearance dates from the fourteenth-fifteenth cen- 
 turies. Up a stony road we walked among a large crowd of 
 French tourists and were repaid for our climb by finding 
 ourselves in a garden full of delicious roses, honeysuckles 
 and clematis. 
 
 First to the chapel of Saint Hubert, built about 1491, 
 and a beautiful example of Gothic architecture. Over its 
 door is the vision of St. Hubert in relief and above is the 
 Virgin between Charles XIII and Anne de Bretagne. The 
 stone carving inside is of the most exquisite lace work, and 
 like that of the Chartres Cathedral, but even finer. 
 
 A tablet marks the spot under which Leonardo da Vinci 
 is probably buried, having died in a manor near-by. In the 
 garden again, we found his bust surrounded by the loveliest 
 of flowers. 
 
 In the Tour des Minimes we followed the famous ascent 
 up which the chevaliers of old used to ride upon their horses. 
 From the top we had a fine sweeping view of the town and 
 many others in the distance. Part way down to the Salle des 
 Gardes, we came again upon the balcony with the iron rail- 
 ing from which Catherine de Medici made poor Marie 
 Stuart and Francis II watch the massacre of the Hugenots 
 below. The butchering of these people was the result of a 
 discovered plot of theirs for removing young Francis II 
 from the influences of the Guises. The plot was discovered 
 which ended in the massacre of St. Bartholomew. 
 
 Francis I spent his youth in this castle, educated in art 
 and learning far more than for government and necessary 
 fighting. He and his sister Louise were carefully taught by 
 their mother, Louise de Valois. 
 
 46 
 
CHAMBORD 
 
 AMBOISE 
 
In the Tour Hurtault we saw the long, easy ascent 
 made for Charles Fifth of Spain when he came to visit 
 Francis I. 
 
 Anne de Bretagne had only a small bare room in this 
 Chateau. The castle dates from the fourteenth-fifteenth cen- 
 turies. 
 
 From the Loire valley into that of the Cher, we came 
 to Chenonceaux and had another walk through a lovely ave- 
 nue of plane trees, past the tower and between two sphinxes 
 over the drawbridge to the Chateau. This beautiful build- 
 ing of the sixteenth century is placed over the Cher by means 
 of huge piles. Francis I often visited here and Henry II 
 presented the Chateau to his Diane, but after his death Cath- 
 erine de Medici compelled her to exchange it for Chau- 
 mont. This happiest of chateaux was the scene of much of 
 Henry IPs pleasantest hours with Diane, and Francis II and 
 Marie Stuart enjoyed their honeymoon there, and many days 
 were spent in boat rides upon the river in which Jean Gou- 
 jon, the young sculptor, took them. The poet Tasso visited 
 Catherine at Chenonceaux, and it is this Chateau alone that 
 was not at all demolished during the revolution, due to 
 Madame the owner at that time who was much loved by the 
 people. It rained just a little before we entered Tours where 
 we had a most comfortable night at the Hotel de 1' Univers. 
 
 47 
 
Tuesday, July 21st. 
 
 Azay. The sun was shining again when we started this 
 morning bright and early for the chateau Azay-le-Rideau. 
 Our road took us between vineyards upon vineyards in one 
 of the famous wine-making districts of France, past the 
 most curious little holes in the hillsides which, when we 
 looked above and saw smoke, we realized were the homes 
 of the grape-growers and the smoke was coming from their 
 chimneys. 
 
 Crossing the Loire again, several miles through the 
 forest, then over a moat, we came to charming Azay-le- 
 Rideau, said to be one of the purest examples of early Renais- 
 sance. A wing running from one end of the main building 
 ends with a tower, and four smaller projecting turrets flank 
 the corners of the Chateau. It was built in 1518-1529 by 
 Giles Berthelot, Treasurer of Finance, and in 1905 was pur- 
 chased by the State. It is said that the original Chateau on 
 this site goes back to 1266, built by a Rideau, and that later, 
 Charles VII before he became King was passing in front of 
 the Chateau when he was insulted by the Burgundy garrison 
 stationed there. He therefore punished the offenders and 
 burnt the town. Since then the town was known as Azay le 
 Brule (Azay the burnt) and the Chateau of 1518 as Azay- 
 le-Rideau. 
 
 In the building are museum collections of attractively 
 carved furniture, etc., and portraits of its former occupants. 
 
 Behind is the Indre and many little streams of the river 
 over which rustic bridges have been built and trees and 
 green foliage make it appear a little fairyland. It was this 
 beauty spot which appealed so to young Francis, son of 
 
 48 
 
RIGNY-USSE 
 
 CHENONCEAUX 
 
Catherine de Medici ; he declared that if he, with his sweet- 
 heart Marie Stuart, could live and love there forever, he 
 would be well content to let young Henry of Guise have all 
 the troublesome business of reigning. 
 
 After crossing the Indre, our ride was through the 
 lovely dark forests of Chinon to its castle on the Vienne. 
 The site of Chinon goes back to 427 when St. Brice founded 
 a parochial church there. Its first use was as a Celtic Oppi- 
 dum, afterward a Roman Castrum. In the twelfth century 
 the Chateau came into the hands of Henry II of England 
 who died there in 1189. His son, Richard Coeur de Lion, 
 also died there after his fatal wound at Limousin ; but most 
 interesting to us was the fact that in this very spot in 1428 
 the maid of Orleans came to consult Charles VII as to the 
 relief of Orleans which was being besieged by the English. 
 The great Chateau is really divided into three separate fort- 
 resses, the Chateau St. Georges of the twelfth century, du 
 Milieu of the nth, 12th and 13th centuries, and du Coudray, 
 in which Jean d' Arc lived for several weeks in 1429 under 
 guard of a lieutenant of Charles VII. 
 
 Then there are the Tour du Boissy and the Tour du 
 Moulin, the tallest, on the floor of which we found cannon 
 balls, telling the tale of fortification days. We had brought 
 our luncheon and ate it among the old walls of the Grand 
 Logis of the Chateau du Mileau. There was a fine old 
 chimney in this Logis and through a window of the tower 
 we had a splendid picture of the town and the Vienne below 
 us. 
 
 After luncheon we explored some dark passages which 
 were probably part of the secret passages by which Charles 
 
 49 
 
was able to visit Agnes Sorel, his great favorite, for whom 
 he provided a house in the neighborhood. 
 
 Another lovely ride to Usse where we were only per- 
 mitted to visit the grounds and chapel, but the remarkable 
 Cedar of Lebanon we saw as we walked up the hill would 
 in itself have paid for the trip had we seen no further. A 
 regiment of French troops were camping through that part 
 of the country and it is the habit of every house, large or 
 small, to shelter the soldiers. The owners of Usse were away 
 but the hospitality of its house had been extended to the lucky 
 officers who must not only have enjoyed the luxury of the 
 house, but also the very lovely gardens surrounding it. 
 
 We stood in the Cour d' Honneur, overflowing with 
 flowers and foliage, and had a fine view of the two wings of 
 the Chateau, originally of the fifteenth and sixteenth cen- 
 turies. The velvety terraces were done by Vauban, who 
 surely had an eye for beauty and making the most of the lo- 
 cation of Usse. 
 
 Three years ago, our woman guide told us, a piece of 
 statuary was stolen from the Chateau, not by an American, 
 I am thankful to say, but naturally tourists are no longer 
 allowed to visit the house. The little chapel used by the 
 family we could and did visit and found again some of Jean 
 Goujon's beautiful carving. 
 
 The imposing Chateau of Langeais of the fifteenth cen- 
 tury we could see in the distance. Originally it was built by 
 Fulques the Black. The present Chateau was planned by 
 Jean Bourre, minister of Louis XI, but most interesting to 
 us was the fact that it was here that the marriage of Charles 
 VIII and Anne de Bretagne took place. 
 
 50 
 
> 
 
 O 
 > 
 
The last of our day of chateaux was Luynes, owned by 
 the Duke of Luynes, with massive towers and a formidable 
 front. We had left the sunshine behind at Chinon and our 
 ride to Tours was made in a delicious summer shower, mak- 
 ing the valley of the Loire look, if possible, greener and more 
 attractive than ever. One thing that interested us much on 
 this ride was the large amount of mistletoe we saw. Lux- 
 uriant and interesting it was, but our feelings for the trees 
 were much as though we had seen some domestic animal 
 afflicted with and yielding up its life to a malignant disease. 
 
 51 
 
Wednesday, July 22nd. 
 
 Tours. The sun was again shining as we had our first 
 chance to look about this beautifully kept town of Tours, the 
 largest city of Touraine, the province which excels all others 
 in the romance of loves and wars of ages gone and the point 
 from which most of the famous chateaux are reached. 
 
 We stopped first to see the Cathedral of St. Gatien, the 
 spires of which we saw so plainly on our first approach to 
 the city, pointing heavenward into a clouded sky, and were 
 this morning outlined in all their splendor against a back- 
 ground of glorious blue. Inside are the tombs of the chil- 
 dren of Charles VIII and Anne de Bretagne. There are 
 splendid stained glass windows and the appearance of an 
 unusual perspective is given by the narrowing of the nave 
 towards the choir. 
 
 Leaving Tours and its cathedral behind us, we started 
 south along the banks of the Indre. It was only a short ride 
 to the ancient-looking town of Loches, and quite a climb to 
 within the walls of the castle. 
 
 Our guide took us through a porch of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury and into the chapel of Saint Ours, used regularly by the 
 people of Loches. The main door of the chapel has an in- 
 teresting arch of the twelfth century, carved with allegorical 
 figures. There is a huge clock tower surmounting the bay 
 of the nave, also of the twelfth century. The choir stalls 
 of the sixteenth century are of really beautiful carving. By 
 candle light, we went into the crypt, another secret passage 
 of the rascal Louis XI. There we saw a remarkably well 
 preserved wall fresco of St. Brice, and in the chapel of the 
 Virgin, the guide called our attention to stained glass win- 
 
 52 
 
CHINON 
 
dows which tell the story of the "Sash of the Virgin." This 
 relic, the sash, was formerly kept in the Treasury and it was 
 to furnish a sanctuary for this relic that the church of Saint 
 Ours was built. 
 
 Our next walk among this collection of interesting 
 buildings was by the Chateau Royal, part of which is now 
 used as the sub-prefecture and has had for its inmates Charles 
 VII and VIII and Louis XI and XII. Within we found a 
 very small room, the oratory of Anne de Bretagne, the walls 
 fairly covered with ermines and cordeliers. 
 
 In the basement of the Tour de Agnes Sorel we found 
 her tomb and there was her statue (recumbent) with two 
 angels kneeling by her head and at her feet two little lambs 
 — an impressive memorial to the frail but beautiful Agnes, 
 the guiding star and best influence in the life of Charles VII. 
 Agnes left a large sum of money to the monks of Loches and 
 was buried in Saint Ours as she had wished. Later the 
 monks put together scruples as to her past life and begged 
 Louis XI to remove her body. The King, who had disliked 
 Agnes, agreed provided the monks would give up the en- 
 dowment. This, they refused to do, so she remained until 
 the reign of Louis XVI when her tomb was removed to its 
 present resting place. 
 
 Outside we were called upon to enthuse over the mag- 
 nificent marronnier planted by Francois I held together and 
 supported by heavy beams. 
 
 We walked down the cobbled stone way to look at the 
 donjon, having heard much of its history. One look suf- 
 ficed! The foundation of Loches was built by Foulques 
 Nerra, eleventh century, rebuilt by Charles VII and forti- 
 
 53 
 
fied; again strengthened by Louis XI and it was to punish 
 the unfortunates who had fallen from the favor of this faith- 
 less monarch, that he built the Tour Ronde. In vast halls 
 were imprisoned the people of distinction, Thibault III, 
 Comte de Tours, the Duke d'Alencon, Pierre de Bresze and 
 Philippe de Savoie. Every sort of cruel instrument is shown 
 in these halls. 
 
 In the circular dungeon, ventilated only by the tiniest 
 loopholes, are the famous cages invented by Cardinal Balue, 
 who, after he had had the misfortune of displeasing his 
 King, was encaged in one of his own make for eleven years. 
 
 There is also the Tour Martelet, where one finds cell 
 below cell going down many stone steps into absolute dark- 
 ness and where, for nine years, Ludovico Sforza lived and 
 tried to pass away the time by writing and painting on the 
 walls. Other noted prisoners were Phillip de Comines and 
 Comte de Saint Vallier, father of Diane de Poitiers. She 
 secured his release by fascinating the enamoured of beauti- 
 ful women, Frangois I. 
 
 Down safely from the horrors of Loches we found the 
 little town most interesting with its imposing Tour St. An- 
 toine of Renaissance construction, and the Chancellerie, 
 dating from Henry II. 
 
 At eleven we were again on the road, following the 
 winding Indre and passing more of the mysterious looking 
 cave homes of the wine-producers. 
 
 After lunching in Chateauroux at the Hotel de France, 
 whose name is the only imposing thing it possesses, we 
 walked a little through the town until Charlet overtook us. 
 Then through La Chatre, a little beyond which we left the 
 
 54 
 
LOCHES — Le Tombeau d'Agnes Sorel 
 
 LOCHES 
 
Indre and took our course to the east. Near Chateaumeillant 
 we had a glimpse of a fifteenth century chateau built by the 
 Amboise of Chaumont. At Culan on the Arnon River, was 
 another chateau. 
 
 Passing through the provence of Berry, we saw the 
 splendid looking pure white Berry cows. Then at five 
 o'clock, in a small village, our first puncture on this entire 
 trip took place and we had leisure to sit by the roadside and 
 realize what extraordinary good luck had been with us. We 
 saw more chateaux and a large modern house which showed 
 the money that had been spent upon it by a prosperous fur- 
 niture man, then came back to our friend the Loire again. 
 In this part of the country recent rains have left their im- 
 pression. The river has considerably overflowed its banks 
 and groups of trees were divided off into little islands, a very 
 pretty sight in the setting sun. 
 
 We reached Vichy on the Allier, at seven o'clock, and 
 spent the night at the Thermal Palace Hotel, one of the 
 many high priced fashionable hotels in this most popular 
 watering resort of France. The Park, the centre of Vichy, 
 was just across the street from us so we walked about there 
 in the evening. It is a beautifully shaded, delightfully cool 
 spot and we lingered to hear the music from the Casino, took 
 a look at the shops, as high priced as the hotels, but such 
 fascinating articles, especially the candy stores, where that 
 confection was made to look like every kind of fruit, and we 
 were glad to find very comfortable beds after our day of 
 travel. 
 
 55 
 
Thursday, July 23rd. 
 
 Vichy. After having done justice to the good water of 
 Vichy, we left at eleven o'clock. The roads along the river 
 bank were quite the worse for rain and we made slower 
 progress than usual. 
 
 We lunched at Roanne, quite an industrial town full 
 of cotton and spinning mills. The Hotel de la Gare was 
 fair, and we were soon crossing the Loire once more. Fur- 
 ther on in the valley of the Turdine, we passed through 
 Tarare, surrounded by mountains. Muslins and silk plush 
 were manufactured here and there were some good old types 
 of houses and another ruined castle. 
 
 Past a huge dam of the Loire and through a very small 
 town where steel knives are made, over many hills up and 
 down, we came up on the top of one from which we could 
 see the Cathedral of Lyons; a few moments more and we 
 were in the City of Lyons at the confluence of the Rhone 
 and Saone and stopping at the Hotel de Lyons. 
 
 After dinner we walked along the quay of the river 
 Rhone and found more marks of recent rains. The water 
 had risen so that it quite covered many of the floors of the 
 wash-houses, but the washerwomen apparently had not been 
 disturbed and had hung their clothes up as high as possible. 
 
 56 
 
Friday, July 24th. 
 
 Commenced Hilda's birthday by having a huge bunch 
 of the most beautiful roses for her at the breakfast table; the 
 roses themselves were almost as tall as the birthday girl. We 
 then gave her a choice of how we should spend the day and 
 she chose the Exposition and Switzerland for the night, 
 which gave us a great deal of ground to cover. Our first 
 sight of interest was the Bourse opposite the hotel. Erected 
 in 1853-60 in modern Renaissance, its inside court is alive 
 with business transactions. There is a remarkable clock 
 upon the Palais with three statues of the Present, Past and 
 Future. It was as he was leaving this building June 24th, 
 1894, tnat President Carnot was assassinated. 
 
 Past the central square of the town we came upon one 
 or the oldest churches in France, St. Martin d'Ainay, 
 founded in the sixth century. This richly ornamented Rom- 
 anesque church is said to be on the site of a school of rhetoric 
 founded by Caligula Athenium, therefore the word Ainay. 
 Quite a contrast to the old square was the Place Bellecour, 
 the finest square in Lyons, where the band plays in the after- 
 noon and the people promenade. From here we had a good 
 view of the Fourviere hill in the distance and the Church of 
 Notre Dame de Fourviere at a height of four hundred feet 
 above us. This imposing church is of modern Byzantine 
 architecture, the fulfillment of a vow made by the Lyons 
 clergy during the war of 1870. The building is so flanked 
 with towers that it gives the appearance of a fortress. Less 
 imposing is the Chapelle de Notre-Dame de Fourviere with 
 its bronze gilt statue of the Virgin glittering in the sun. This 
 church is the favorite resort of many pilgrims. 
 
 A most interesting group of buildings on the Rue de la 
 
 57 
 
Republique is that of the Hotel Dieu, the oldest hospital of 
 France, adorned with statues of its founders, King Childe- 
 bert and Queen Altrogothe. Crossing a small Place de la 
 Republique, we came to the monument of President Carnot, 
 the much beloved martyr of France. 
 
 From here we drove to the Exposition Grounds in the 
 outskirts of the City. It is an International Exposition and 
 would have been well worth a few days' study. Our time, 
 however, was limited. We spent most of it looking over the 
 process of silk manufacture from the worm and cocoon to 
 the finished product. The materials that were exhibited 
 were so beautiful in texture and in colors that we were fasci- 
 nated with them and spent more time there than we expected. 
 A brief glance through the British and American exhibits 
 and a fleeting impression of the general arrangements and 
 architecture had to suffice for the other parts. 
 
 We returned to luncheon at the hotel. Immediately 
 after, we were off for Switzerland at one-five. Our ride was 
 first along the Rhone, which was very high and rushing at 
 a tremendous speed ; then came an avenue of accacia trees, 
 after which we met the Ain which joins the Rhone. The 
 latter river is supposed to disappear for about five miles and 
 nobody has discovered just where it has hidden itself, but 
 among the valleys of the French Jura, we found it again. 
 Along the edge of the Jura mountains, we saw two pictur- 
 esque chateaux and after having a gorgeous climb of twenty- 
 five hundred feet, we looked down upon a tiny, red-roofed 
 village, Chadun. We stopped for tea at the Hotel de France, 
 charmingly situated upon Lake Nantua. We were so curi- 
 ous to try the crawfish which swam about in the rockery of 
 the little Inn that we waited while our host and hostess fished 
 out the inactive fish to throw away and the very much alive 
 
 58 
 
NANTUA— La Colonne et le Lac 
 
ones for our repast. They call them escrivisse in France; 
 when broiled a bright red, they reminded us of lobster, but 
 such a disappointment! They had a curious mint taste that 
 would take some time for us to cultivate, and unappreciative 
 though it seemed, we left without finishing the dozen. 
 
 A short distance from the Inn we found a church with 
 a very old appearing door and facade. We looked into it 
 and were much interested in the nave, the walls of which 
 expand toward the top. The ceiling of the transcept is very 
 high. Baedeker says it is the Eglise St. Michel of the ninth 
 century and originally it belonged to an Abbey founded in 
 the seventh century. 
 
 By the Rhone once more and continuously climbing, 
 we came to quite a lumber district alive with men working 
 at the freshly cut wood. We made a necessary stop at Belle- 
 garde, the French custom house, then climbed the mountain 
 again and had a glorious view of the Alps, then over the 
 drawbridges on either side of the Defile de l'Ecluse. This is 
 in the nature of a fortification placed there by the Powers 
 after they had made peace with Switzerland and France and 
 acts as a safeguard along the road which marks the boundary 
 line between the two countries. We learned what we had 
 never known before, that there is a stretch ten miles wide of 
 so-called neutral territory between France and Switzerland. 
 
 We reached the Swiss Custom House at Chancy at six 
 in the evening and entered Switzerland, following the Rhone 
 where it has its beginning into the City of Geneva. The 
 Hotel Beau-Rivage looked delightfully Swiss with its at- 
 tractive, gaily painted walls, and the green aproned porters 
 were so quick with their service, we were soon settled in most 
 comfortable quarters. 
 
 59 
 
Saturday, July 25th. 
 
 The morning papers were full of the startling news of 
 trouble between Austria and Servia. It seems that since the 
 assassination of the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand 
 on June 28th by the crazy Servian fanatic, which we heard 
 by wireless on the Imperator, Austria has been busy with 
 plans for punishing Servia for this outrage. The culmina- 
 tion of these plans was shown in the note delivered by the 
 Austro-Hungarian government to Servia, July 23rd, the pur- 
 port of which is that the accomplices in the murder must be 
 punished by the Austro-Hungarian officials. Also all anti- 
 Austrian propaganda must be suppressed, practically; the 
 school children cannot be taught history in any way detri- 
 mental to Austria. An answer to this note was demanded 
 in twenty-four hours. Charlet tells us there is much un- 
 easiness among the Swiss as to the outcome, should Servia 
 not become quite subservient to the northern country. 
 
 Notwithstanding an atmosphere of uneasiness about us 
 and decided signs of darkening weather above, we boarded 
 the little steamer "Evian" and started on a tour of Lac Le- 
 man. We found the boat provided a delicious luncheon, 
 after which we saw what we could, with so cloudy a sky, of 
 the mountains French and Swiss on each side of us. We 
 made a stop at Nyon and had a glimpse of a chateau pic- 
 turesquely set upon a hill, then as the atmosphere thickened 
 and shut out land about us, I took up Baedeker to learn some- 
 thing of the history of Geneva. 
 
 Way back in the first century B. C, Geneva, as it was 
 then called, was a town of the Allobroges whose territory 
 became a Roman province. In 443 it became the capitol of 
 the Burgundian kingdom, with which it came into the pos- 
 
 60 
 
session of the Franks in 534. At the end of three more cen- 
 turies, it was annexed to the new Burgundian kingdom, and 
 fell to the German Empire. In 1034 Emperor Conrad II 
 caused himself to be crowned as King of Burgundy. Then 
 during protracted conflicts for supremacy between the 
 Counts of Geneva and the Counts, afterward Dukes of Sa- 
 voy, the citizens succeeded in obtaining various privileges 
 and in the midst of these discords dawned the Reformation 
 zealously embraced by Geneva. 
 
 Jean Calvin, a refugee from Paris, born at Noyon in 
 1509, sought an asylum at Geneva and soon made his in- 
 fluence felt in church and state. In 1538 he was banished, 
 but on returning three years later, he obtained almost sov- 
 ereign power and established a rigid ecclesiastical discipline. 
 He faithfully practiced, himself, the austerity which he 
 preached, but became tyrannical with others. Michael Ser- 
 vetus, a Spanish Physician, and only a visitor at Geneva, 
 had written against the doctrine of the Trinity and for this 
 apparent sin, Calvin had him arrested and he was condemned 
 to the stake and executed by the Great Council. 
 
 The Geneva Academy was founded by Calvin in 1559. 
 It became the leading Protestant school of Theology and al- 
 though Calvin died five years later, his doctrine has been 
 firmly rooted in Geneva ever since. 
 
 Geneva claims also to be the birthplace of Rousseau, 
 the writer, who, born in 1712, was the son of a watchmaker. 
 His "Emile" and "Contrat Social" fared badly in his native 
 town; they were condemned as destructive to religion and 
 ordered burned by the hangman. Another man very worthy 
 of mention was the Frenchman Charles Cousin who in 1587 
 first introduced watchmaking, which ever since has been 
 one of the flourishing trades of the city. 
 
 61 
 
In 1814 Geneva joined the Swiss Confederation as the 
 twenty-second Canton and in 1846 the Canton, under the 
 leadership of James Fazy, overthrew the conservative gov- 
 ernment and the next year a democratic constitution was 
 adopted which has been substantially in force ever since. 
 
 The sun was shining when we stopped at Evian-les- 
 Bains and we left our boat to have a look at the town which 
 supplies the delicious water we have asked for ever since our 
 arrival on this side of the ocean. It is a small town with its 
 attractive Quai lined with shady trees, and casino and bath 
 house. We walked along the water side going towards 
 Geneva until we came to one end of the Quai and found the 
 statue of General Dupas, a native of Evian. We turned into 
 the town and as we felt quite ready for a walk, decided we 
 would go on foot to Thonon and meet the "Evian" on its trip 
 back. The road was easy walking but it was rather tantaliz- 
 ing to see so many enticing cafes offering tea and afternoon 
 refreshments all along the lake, and be so pressed for time 
 we could not stop. Our boat was due within two hours, and 
 we had seven miles to go. We reached Thonon-les-Bains 
 the site of a castle of the Savoy Duke, but we had no minutes 
 to spare in sight-seeing, as our steamer was approaching and 
 so was more rain. 
 
 We arrived at the Beau-Rivage drenched, and delighted 
 to have our dinner in our rooms most comfortably. During 
 the evening the newsboys were crying more extras of the 
 Austria-Servian situation. What a pity it must mean war! 
 
 62 
 
Sunday, July 26th. 
 
 At nine-thirty we started in the rain for far-famed 
 Chamonix. Our winding road took us through the little 
 town of Haut Savoie and Cluses where we saw what seemed 
 quite a large school of Holorgerie (watchmaking). Charlet 
 pointed out this place of learning with great pride at the in- 
 dustry of his country. There were many fine water falls 
 running down the mountain sides, and huge turbines mak- 
 ing use of the abundance of water. New ones are contin- 
 ually being put up, so that electricity has a chance to turn the 
 water to greater advantage. In one place between two 
 waterfalls, a profile face of rock was easily seen and we 
 found it was called Henry IV from its resemblance to that 
 King. Through the town of Sallanches and Le Fayet and 
 along the river Arve with the magnificent Glacier des Bos- 
 sons on our right, we drove into Chamonix and found the 
 sun shining. We looked into the attractive little church 
 where services had just been held, and in the church-yard 
 found many tombstones showing the lives sacrificed by 
 mountaineers in trying to reach the untraveled parts of Mt. 
 Blanc. At the entrance of the valley is a bronze group, rep- 
 resenting Balmat the famous guide pointing out to De 
 Sassure his path found to lead to the top of the mountain. 
 
 Chamonix itself is only twelve miles in area, lying at 
 the foot of three gigantic mountain chains, peak upon peak 
 of them. They are the Col de Baume, the chain of Brevent 
 and Aiguilles Rouges, and rising colossally above all the 
 others is Mont Blanc. 
 
 While waiting for our luncheon at the new Hotel 
 Chamonix Palace, we read of the charms and cures of this 
 
 63 
 
invigorating climate of a thousand feet above the sea level. 
 From the list of maladies made well by the air of Chamonix, 
 one would think all one's physical troubles could be mended 
 by a visit here. Hilda was so impressed that she thought it 
 would be worth while to look up a school and plan for edu- 
 cation and health for the Williams family in this mountain 
 resort. 
 
 At two we took the funicular for the Mer de Glace, an 
 hour's ride full of wonders for Hilda and me but not wholly 
 enjoyable for Ed at the start as he could not get used to leav- 
 ing terra firma so far behind, never being able to feel com- 
 fortable at great heights. The road was lovely with the 
 greenest of bushes, trees, ferns, azaleas, butter-cups, forget- 
 me-nots and daisies on one side, while to the left lay the val- 
 ley below and the side of the mountain growing steeper as 
 Chamonix grew smaller in size. Quite near the top were 
 cows kept by the hotel, which provides for the tourists who 
 stay over night. These animals had quite a muscular appear- 
 ance from their exercise of hill climbing. 
 
 At the station near the Mer de Glace we stopped and 
 walked out upon a flat surface upon which the station and 
 a stone wall were built. It had grown colder and we had a 
 few minutes of snow on this 26th day of July. There were 
 plenty of guides anxious to take us out upon the Mer de 
 Glace, but we were content to watch the other tourists trying 
 their luck at it. In fifteen minutes, our funicular was ready 
 for the descent. Again in our auto on the return ride we 
 had a good view of Mt. Blanc when the sun shone fully upon 
 it for a few moments, but only a few, and the clouds closed 
 over it again. 
 
 Coming into Geneva we drove through the upper part 
 
 64 
 
o 
 
 X 
 
 > 
 
 o 
 
 r 
 
 to 
 
of the town. This is built in quite an up and down 
 fashion and it was on one of the heights that we found a most 
 interesting old Municipal building with a court decorated 
 with frescoes of the 16th century. We climbed part way up 
 an ancient roadway of cobble stones which ascends to the 
 third floor of the building. It was somewhere in the build- 
 ing that one of the Treaties of Geneva was signed, according 
 to Charlet, who must be an authority on the history of his 
 own country. 
 
 Near-by is the Cathedral of St. Pierre, of Romanesque 
 structure completed by Emperor Conrad II in 1034 an d re_ 
 built in Gothic style in the twelfth-thirteenth centuries. In 
 the Grand Rue, number forty, stands the house where Jean 
 Jacques Rosseau was born in 1712. 
 
 The papers say Servia agrees to all the demands of 
 Austria-Hungary except that which stipulated Austro-Hun- 
 garian officials should participate in the inquiry. The reply 
 is rejected as insufficient. An important point is the fact 
 that Russia is making it clear that she will not permit 
 Austria-Hungary to make war upon Servia on a pretext. 
 
 65 
 
Monday, July 27th. 
 
 More disquieting news in the morning paper. Servia, 
 told by Austria to give her answer in forty-eight hours, 
 agreed to all the Austrian demands except that one which 
 would have permitted government officials of the Dual mon- 
 archy to take a predominant part in the punishment of those 
 implicated in the murder of Franz Ferdinand. Even on this 
 point the Serbs asked simply for further information, but 
 Austria would not be satisfied with half-way measures. 
 
 Charlet says the Germans he has met are especially con- 
 cerned, wondering how their country will take this step of 
 their Ally. 
 
 We started off in a fine drizzling rain at eleven o'clock, 
 driving along the north shore of Lac Leman. There were 
 charming villas everywhere. At Nyon on the street corners 
 were fountains with flowers growing from them, the bright 
 colored geraniums and begonias appearing most attractive 
 through the spray of water. There was an old chateau, the 
 remains of the fortification of the town and from its terrace 
 of plane trees we had a fine view. There were guns and 
 relics of old columns and evidently parts of the castle of 
 which we had only a glimpse, as Thursdays and Sundays 
 only were visiting days. 
 
 Out of Nyon we passed the house and property of Vic- 
 tor Napoleon, son of Napoleon III, and later Charlet pointed 
 out the site of a house supposed to be haunted, where no- 
 body would live. Four Englishmen once tried one night of 
 it together, but that one night was so filled with horrors of 
 every description for each man that since then no attempt 
 has been made to inhabit that house of ghosts. I have never, 
 
even at the seashore where brilliant colors abound, seen more 
 gorgeous dahlias than on this road. 
 
 Morge was a picturesque little town we passed through 
 and there an old chateau had been turned into useful bar- 
 racks. 
 
 We arrived at Lausanne at noon and after lunch, though 
 it still rained, we started up the hill to the Cathedral of Notre 
 Dame. This Gothic building of 1235 with the castle over- 
 shadowing the town below adds a large share to its pictur- 
 esqueness. The town is built upon a slope of Mt. Jorat and 
 the handsome Grand-Pont Bridge spans the Flon river. It 
 was house-cleaning day in the Palace, which is the great 
 show place of Lausanne, so as it was impossible to see the 
 inside, we found a dry goods store in which we spent a very 
 profitable hour. It seemed to be the Bon Marche of this 
 town and I found the greatest variety of all sorts of handker- 
 chiefs from seventy-five centimes up. 
 
 At five o'clock we left the town, coming five minutes 
 later, into Ouchy, another attractive resort and the town in 
 which Byron stayed when he wrote his "Prisoner of Chil- 
 lon." 
 
 We drove over a most lovely Corniche Road to Vevey. 
 The mountain upon our left was covered with terrace upon 
 terrace of grape vines, stone walls separating the terraces. 
 Then came a break in the green mountain side and we saw 
 and heard a splendid waterfall rushing down its course. 
 
 We passed the home of the man who built the Eiffel 
 Tower, and on the edge of Vevey came to a splendid looking 
 building in which the famous Nestle's Food is made. 
 
 67 
 
From Vevey we reached Montreux at the extreme end 
 of Lac Leman and went to the Montreux Palace Hotel. Be- 
 fore dinner we found a fine walk along the lake, the air was 
 fresh and delicious and it was a delightful time for walking, 
 but the lake path turned into town and then there were shops 
 with the most reasonable and best looking sweaters I have 
 ever seen. We could not resist two sweater outfits for the 
 children at home and returned to the Montreux Palace with 
 our arms filled and our pockets lightened in proportion. 
 
 68 
 
Tuesday, July 28th. 
 
 Left the hotel at nine-twenty enroute for Territet, there 
 most ancient and picturesque, built upon an isolated rock 
 stood the "Castle of Chillon." We found a large party of 
 American tourists had started ahead of us and were peer- 
 ing into every nook and corner to find the spot where the 
 "Prisoner" dwelt and where Mary first appeared. We heard, 
 "This must be the door where Mary came in," so it was ap- 
 parent that these sightseers were happy in believing in the 
 reality of Byron's poem, though Baedecker says there is no 
 connection between that and the actual circumstances which 
 occurred there. Our French guide, if I understood him 
 rightly, told of the great sufferings of the brave Bonivard 
 imprisoned in the dungeon of Chillon for six years by the 
 Duke of Savoy. The duke, having attacked the republic of 
 Geneva, Bonivard energetically took up its cause and was 
 imprisoned, escaped and was in 1530 captured again and 
 shut up in Chillon for six long years. 
 
 We started up the Pass of Les Mottets; on our left as 
 we began our ascent we saw a splendid large sanitarium for 
 tubercular patients, and if gorgeous scenery could be a part 
 of the cure of those patients, half their troubles would be 
 mended. It was a glorious sight, the Dent du Midi loomed 
 up before us, Les Diablerets, the Tete Ronde and Culant 
 all ranging from three thousand feet or over. Picturesque 
 brown roofed chalets were dotted here and there upon the 
 mountain side and Charlet explained the reason so many of 
 them appeared closed. The mountaineer, if he is prosperous 
 enough to afford it, has three chalets in his possession, so 
 that as the cold weather comes on he goes from his summer 
 home above to his more sheltered winter house below ; then 
 
 69 
 
there is the half-way chalet for the in-between season, so the 
 reason for the exits from the higher houses to the half-way 
 in this midsummer month must be on account of the unu- 
 sually cool summer we are having. 
 
 We stopped to water our machine at Le Sepey, twenty- 
 five hundred feet up and it was so cold it seemed as if the 
 rain, which had begun again, would surely turn to snow. 
 Then the Pillon Pass began and out came the sun, so 
 with the snow-capped mountains above, fields of wheat, firs 
 and pines edging our road, every imaginable color of wild 
 flower sprinkled about, and the chalets above and below us, 
 each with its attractive vegetable garden, we had a morning 
 of a never-to-be-forgotten picture. "Panorama," Charlet 
 would shout to us, as he waved his arms every time an ex- 
 pansive view opened before us. 
 
 Our descent to Chateau D'Oex was made by noon and 
 in its valley we found a real treasure in the Hotel Berthod, 
 a rather primitive house, but comfortable and in good taste, 
 and after a very nice luncheon, we felt we would like to 
 linger there for weeks, but were off again at one-forty-five. 
 Passed through quite a lumber district and Rougemont, one 
 of the last of the French Swiss Villages. The German 
 Swiss chalets seemed to me a little more prosperous in ap- 
 pearance, we saw more flowers than ever in their gardens 
 and window boxes were spilling over with geraniums and 
 petunias. As for the children, we noticed decidedly more 
 in each village and such rosy-cheeked, pretty smiling faces, 
 always waving their hands and so bent on being cordial that 
 often when they heard the motor, though their backs were 
 to us, they would start their salute. 
 
 Saanen was a most picturesque little village. We took 
 
 70 
 
2 
 
 2 
 z 
 Q 
 
 z 
 
 d 
 z 
 
 D 
 > 
 
 r 
 
 I— I 
 
 > 
 r 
 
another quite steep climb after leaving it and came next 
 through Zweisimmen, a town where matches are made, 
 through Simmenthal, along the shores of its river, then the 
 beautiful lake Thun, along its shore to Thun. Here we were 
 met by an official who told us, according to the law, that we 
 would have to take thirty-four minutes for about twelve kilo- 
 meters. They gave us a card with the hour stamped on it 
 and we were compelled to go slowly enough to use up the 
 time required before presenting the card at the next control. 
 This gave us ample time to see the beauty of the lake and as 
 we were passing through the last of five rocky tunnels, we 
 heard an attractive musical note and found it was a Swiss 
 who was furnishing entertainment for us with a long, wood- 
 en, flute-like instrument and anxiously waiting for our cen- 
 times, which of course he received. 
 
 Arriving at Interlaken, we stopped at the Victoria 
 Jungfrau Hotel, took a walk before dinner and found a 
 square full of churches of all denominations. 
 
 71 
 
Wednesday, July 29th. 
 
 Rain, all morning, with many clouds and hardly a 
 glimpse of the Jungfrau. At two o'clock we started again 
 in the automobile for Grindelwald where, after a lovely ride, 
 I found to my amazement that the little village which I 
 went to seventeen years ago, with one restaurant, had grown 
 to a resort of hotels and pensions and dozens of souvenir 
 shops. We left the auto and started on foot for the Blue 
 Grotto of the Grindewald Glacier. Up to a neat little half- 
 way house, we found a Swiss woman who lives there alone 
 and who assured us the rest of the climb was easy, but Ed 
 was already feeling the height and decided to smoke his pipe 
 on a secure footing, so after promising him to be back in 
 thirty minutes, Hilda and I started. I soon met my Water- 
 loo, not in climbing but in looking back at one of the curves 
 where we seemed to be on the edge of nothing. I called Hil- 
 da back and partly slid down the side, which really terrified 
 me. To make up for her parents' lack of nerve, it seemed 
 necessary to look for some lesser feat to lessen the disap- 
 pointment of the child, who had the courage to go anywhere, 
 and we soon found it in the Liitschine gorge. We walked 
 along a stone pavement at the bottom of the gorge and saw 
 the water madly rushing over the stones below us and felt 
 so much moisture from cracks in the rocks above us that 
 many tourists kept up their umbrellas until the gorge visit 
 was over. The sun was doing its best now and we had a 
 splendid view of the Jungfrau and the Eagle. 
 
 72 
 
LUTSCHINENSCHLUCHT— Grindelwald 
 
Thursday, July 30th. 
 
 Interlaken. Beautiful day. We shopped in the morn- 
 ing and bought some of the attractive Swiss hatpins with 
 heads of edelweiss, narcissus and violets. Lunched at the 
 Victoria and left at one-fifty. Our way was by part of the 
 river Aare, then by Lake Brienz and through Brienz, a curi- 
 ous little village which ran for two miles along one street. 
 More Alpine views and very obvious marks of a land slide to 
 the right of us which took place two years ago, covering 
 seven chalets full of people in a night. The rocks on our left 
 for a space had unusual circular streaks different from any 
 we had seen before. 
 
 Up the Briinig Pass we drove, reaching its summit at 
 three. There again our time was taken as at Thun and we 
 were given two hours to run thirty-five kilometres. This 
 pass was really a steeper climb than the Pillon; it is thirty- 
 six hundred feet high. We walked down the mountain to 
 the village of Lungern while three little German girls of the 
 Goethe family, whom we found picking strawberries, had 
 their first ride in an auto with Charlet, causing much com- 
 ment in their village. In this town every child from six years 
 up was knitting her stockings and with her steel needles 
 going marvelously fast, we found them climbing up hill or 
 chatting with their friends, the needles always busy. 
 
 Sarnen was our next lake with the town of Sarnen on 
 its edge, and then Unterseen on an arm of Lake Lucerne. 
 We arrived at Lucerne at five-thirty and found the Tivoli, a 
 pension hotel, and unusually nice with one of the most at- 
 tractive verandas for its restaurant I have seen. Besides ex- 
 traordinary large red geraniums in boxes on its railings, 
 
 73 
 
there were sweet peas of all colors climbing up to the boxes. 
 Rode to the Lion of Lucerne, a most beautiful tribute to the 
 loyalty of the Swiss guards who lost their lives in defense of 
 the French queen, Marie Antoinette, whom they served as 
 palace guards. The Glacier Garden adjoining had some 
 interesting examples of the effects of the ice action on rocks. 
 We finished the day by walking through the labyrinth of 
 the Alhambra, a maze of gaudy color and a dreadful anti- 
 climax after the masterpiece of Thorwaldsen. 
 
 74 
 
Friday, July 31st. 
 
 Beautiful day. We found such good stores of embroid- 
 ered linen in Lucerne that we shopped until eleven, then 
 started enroute for Constance. 
 
 Rows of attractive farm houses bordered our road until 
 we joined the lake again and came to Kiissnacht at its end. 
 Up a hill and through a lovely stretch of plane trees, we de- 
 scended to Lake Zug, long and narrow. At its farther end 
 Charlet pointed to a field which had been the battle scene of 
 a fight between the Austrians and the Swiss and on a tiny 
 island in the lake we could see a cross, the memorial to some 
 hero of that encounter. 
 
 A few moments later we were brought face to face with 
 the reality of present day war. On a narrow strip of road by 
 the lakeside we passed a troop of Swiss cavalry and infantry 
 on their way to the frontier, splendid looking men, young 
 and with healthy complexions, so characteristic of the 
 Swiss. They were chatting and joking among themselves 
 quite as if they were off for a day's outing instead of the prob- 
 ability of fighting for their lives and their native land. 
 
 In this part of the country cider is quite a product and 
 the attractive little chalets were surrounded with apple trees. 
 The houses themselves looked prosperous and were adorned 
 with red geraniums. Each one had its neat wood pile at its 
 side in preparation for the winter. At the top of another 
 hill we had a fine view of Lake Zurich, arriving in the town 
 at one o'clock. 
 
 We found the Hotel Baur au Lac situated quite like 
 some of the French chateaux we have seen, over the river 
 
 75 
 
which flows from Lake Zurich, and by the river side upon a 
 terrace we were given a delicious luncheon. 
 
 After our usual hour for the mid-day meal, we looked 
 for the car and found Charlet for once not able to start his 
 engine. Our spring had broken during the morning and 
 although it was not apparent to any of us, interfered incon- 
 veniently with the crank. We were not at all sorry to have to 
 spend the night at this very nice hotel where we were given 
 two bed rooms, one a regular old-fashioned parlor. Ed 
 seemed really relieved, for he thinks the war scare serious. 
 The conservative London Times says that Austria, too im- 
 pulsive, has quarreled with Servia, that she has drawn Ger- 
 many into more than the latter bargained for, that if Ger- 
 many attacks the French frontier, she would surely side ac- 
 cording to the Triple Alliance with her sister country and 
 protect her. Germany has given Russia twenty-four hours 
 to decide what her course will be. It is plain to see there is 
 a feeling of unrest among the hotel guests, the proprietor 
 and concierge have been pestered with all sorts of anxious 
 questions the entire day; guests are going and more are com- 
 ing in from Germany. We put in a long distance call to 
 Constance to find if there was a message from our friend in 
 Berlin whom we were expecting to meet in Germany. 
 
 Meanwhile it was such a warm, glorious day, Hilda and 
 I were much tempted to try the lake. The bath-house was 
 three-quarters of a mile from the hotel so we walked there 
 and had a delicious swim among all German speaking 
 women and children. The bathing costumes were as varied 
 as any collection I have ever seen and not quite the North 
 Shore style we are accustomed to, more like mother hubbards 
 and swing clears for the mothers and night robes or gingham 
 dresses for the little girls. 
 
 76 
 
N 
 
 o 
 
 X 
 
Returning to the hotel we heard that there was a letter 
 for us at Constance, it would be mailed to us that evening as 
 probably no more trains would come through from Ger- 
 many. 
 
 The terrace restaurant of noon has gone, the orchestra, 
 too; the waiters have been called to protect their border-land 
 and such a mixture of all nations as assembled together for 
 the evening meal ! The restaurant tables had been put away, 
 and our dinner was served at long tables, table d'hote. We 
 passed things to each other and wondered what the next step 
 would be. 
 
 77 
 
Saturday, August 1st. 
 
 The morning was beautiful, but as the sun grew 
 brighter the afternoon became really hot while the atmos- 
 phere of uneasiness about Zurich increased in the same pro- 
 portion. 
 
 First of all the hotel would not accept our paper money 
 for breakfast, so that meal was charged for the time being. 
 Ed hardly waited to finish his breakfast in his anxiety to get 
 to the bank, and Hilda, quite on the alert for more excite- 
 ment, went too. Every bank was closed, but Cook's, equal 
 to the emergency, gave us a hundred francs in gold and 
 silver. 
 
 By noon our hotel had settled down systematically and 
 without any panicky signs to a necessarily new set of regu- 
 lations. Twenty German waiters had already left for their 
 country, the elevator boys were expecting to leave at any 
 time. Service in every respect had to be curtailed, so we 
 were asked to be as considerate as possible in the use of 
 towels and linen. The elevator would run only through the 
 busiest hours and we were all asked to come to our meals at 
 the same time. 
 
 Next to me at the long luncheon table was a lady who 
 told me the worst, but what we had expected since last even- 
 ing's news, that Germany — reckless, aggressive, head of the 
 Teutons, had declared war upon Russia. This American 
 had been planning with her friend to stay in Switzerland un- 
 til November, but now although carrying a large letter of 
 credit, she could only procure four pounds in Zurich this 
 morning, so she was giving up all thought of her attractive 
 rooms engaged at a pension in Lucerne and was planning 
 
 78 
 
to take the first train this afternoon for that city, expecting 
 to look for rooms at eight francs a day, then go to Geneva 
 as soon as possible in hopes of catching a steamer for 
 America. Poor woman! I should like to have offered to 
 help them along somehow with our Hotchkiss, but Ed re- 
 minded me we could not count with any certainty on again 
 using that French car with its Swiss driver. 
 
 After luncheon we walked to the office of the American 
 Consul, not feeling we should afford the luxury of a taxi nor 
 even a sous for the "extras" which were being called at every 
 corner. It seemed a month since yesterday morning when 
 I was spending my francs with such keen pleasure over the 
 linens of Lucerne and now felt no certainty at all of covering 
 the many miles of railroad to Paris. 
 
 Every store with the exception of the smallest shops had 
 pulled its shutters tight and the banks all appeared to be 
 closed as if for a long holiday. The office of our Consul was 
 overflowing with Americans, asking many questions, all 
 leading to the same problem, "What shall we do?" to which 
 the poor, harrassed representative of our country had but one 
 reply which seemed to safely cover a multitude of perplexi- 
 ties. "If you have a passport you can travel without trouble ; 
 if not, go to Berne and apply for one and do it at once," for 
 he had heard that in all likelihood, for the next few days, 
 there would be no trains out of Switzerland. 
 
 At the station we found crowds, nobody being allowed 
 to enter without a ticket to show. We had none, but every 
 kind person who was lucky enough to be blest with a pass 
 of any sort was ready to help his neighbor, and so it happened 
 that an American who had a Cook's pass, took Ed in with 
 him while Hilda and I waited outside, a part of scores of 
 
 79 
 
Americans, each telling their situation to one another and 
 wondering if their paper money would be honored. 
 
 The result of Ed's railroad expedition was that a train 
 was due to leave the city for Paris at nine-forty this evening, 
 and that we might be able to buy sleeping apartments later, 
 but in order to do so, Ed would have to go back again at four 
 o'clock and stand in line. We found Charlet in the garage 
 still working on the broken spring ; one of the workmen who 
 had been helping him had been called to join his army and 
 had actually had to drop his tools and run. Charlet had 
 heard that the petrol in Switzerland had been called into 
 requisition for the army, so even were his machine in good 
 shape now, he could not run it far without the petrol. Also, 
 he was Swiss born and would probably not find it easy to 
 leave the country in its present state, so, hard as it was, and 
 to me it seemed like actually deserting the guide who had 
 given us such comfort and pleasure, there was no question 
 about it, we had to part, leaving Charlet to go to Berne for 
 his passport, while we risked the trip without one. 
 
 Returning to the hotel for a moment, Ed met a man who 
 had gone to America from Switzerland fifteen years ago but 
 had not taken out naturalization papers. He was visiting 
 here with his automobile and both he and his machine had 
 been pressed into service. 
 
 Hilda and I spent the remainder of the afternoon in 
 packing, while Ed returned to the station. Fortunately he 
 found a man from Cook's who was our good angel, and it 
 was due to his untiring persistency that finally our tickets 
 and sleeping accommodations were bought and paid for. 
 Cook's had refused in the morning to give us any more 
 money but they were willing to sell us the tickets and charge 
 
 80 
 
the value of them on our letter of credit. We checked our 
 automobile trunk to London. Ed called the train a "per- 
 haps" train. Perhaps there would be a train through from 
 Austria, perhaps there would be a sleeper on it, perhaps this 
 sleeper would not join it until it reached Basle and perhaps 
 we could get something on it. It was a hard decision to make 
 because there was no way of knowing until we saw the thing 
 through, whether we were wise in leaving the hotel where 
 we were comfortable and trying to get out of the city. 
 
 For dinner more travelers had arrived, among them the 
 C.'s who had come from Munich, looking for safety and 
 quiet and were appalled to find the state of things that ex- 
 isted in Zurich. In spite of the unfavorable conditions the 
 hotel people show their patriotism this evening. On the 
 long dining tables were large ships made of some candied 
 pastry with the Swiss flag flying, labeled August first. We 
 were told this was in celebration of the five hundredth anni- 
 versary of the Swiss Republic. We thought it very plucky of 
 these people, doing their best to commemorate the occasion, 
 though short of hands, and with the prospect of a scarcity 
 of provisions, as Switzerland is quite dependent upon other 
 countries for a large part of her food supplies. 
 
 The hotel motor took us to the station, Charlet going 
 along to see us off, and the Cook man met us with our tickets. 
 The crowd was tremendous, soldiers everywhere, and after 
 much pushing and shoving by ourselves and the crowd, we 
 reached our train and were off at nine-forty. Shortly after 
 eleven we reached Basle and left the train, wondering 
 whether we would find the other train for Paris and whether 
 our sleeping car would be on it. Sure enough at eleven- 
 thirty the other train was ready to go and had a sleeper, but, 
 alas, it was not ours. Then there was more of the "perhaps." 
 
 81 
 
Perhaps another section would go and perhaps the sleeper 
 would be on it. This station, too, was full of people and 
 soldiers. Basle is a border town and we understood the sta- 
 tion was only two or three blocks away from the German 
 line. 
 
 About one-thirty another train had pulled in and we 
 found our two compartments ready for us. We boarded it 
 and went to bed, looking forward to arrival in Paris some 
 time during the morning, and London tomorrow evening or 
 the next morning. 
 
 82 
 
Sunday, August 2nd. 
 
 At three-thirty I awoke to find we were standing still at 
 the border town of Delle, and crowds of people were walking 
 back and forth on the station platform. I watched the day- 
 light come and at six-thirty dressed and, informed by the 
 porter that there was something to eat at the buffet station, 
 started forth, leaving Hilda and Ed still sound asleep. 
 Hundreds of people must have already been there, and 
 though I saw pieces of bread and bottles of wine on the 
 counter, there was so much of cafe au hit and wine running 
 from the bare tables to the floors, where, in the rush it had 
 been spilled, it was all in such a smelly state of mess and dirt 
 that my appetite grew small as I looked about. I saw soldiers 
 walking back into the town and followed. The first cafe 
 they turned into did not look prepossessing, but at the next, 
 full of soldiers, I found the hostess interested in my wants, 
 as apparently, I was the only woman who had tried her 
 restaurant. I went into the kitchen where her children stood 
 about, their big eyes full of wonder at the crowds of hungry 
 people and, I suppose, anxious lest the soldiers would leave 
 nothing for them. The mother cut me four slices of dark 
 bread, a piece of cheese and sold me a cake of chocolate and 
 a bottle of Vichy. I asked for meat, not feeling any certainty 
 of a dining car, but the woman showed me her only meat — 
 one small piece of ham, and in pathetic French explained 
 that with the bordering countries at war, their chance of pro- 
 visions, aside from dairy products, was very small. Armed 
 with my purchases, I went back to the train and found Hilda 
 dressed, the weary Ed still sleeping. We washed at the sta- 
 tion pump as the others were doing and I showed Hilda the 
 station restaurant, one sight of which was enough for her. 
 
 83 
 
Soon Ed awoke and we all ate our breakfast in the car, 
 then walked up and down and watched the crowds. The 
 poor Italians! I felt so sorry for them, they could not go 
 across the French frontier on our train so they had to get out 
 and with their baggage on their backs, many women and 
 children had to foot it to some place nearer the Italian fron- 
 tier where they could cross into their native land. 
 
 Just before we finally pulled out of the station, I heard 
 a Frenchman, excitedly asking a Frenchwoman if she could 
 explain, in English, to an American lady who, it seems had 
 lost her friend, that the Mayor of the town wished to bury 
 the body rather than have it carried away. I could see the 
 poor woman looking most distressed and was wondering 
 what I could do for her when the signal for leaving was 
 given; we had to hurry to our seats and at nine o'clock were 
 actually on our way, leaving this distressed American 
 woman behind. It was sad to be compelled to desert her. It 
 was distressing, too, to see the women with small babies in 
 the third class compartments; they had no place upon which 
 to lay their heads all night and might have to go through part 
 of another night in the same uncomfortable way; but most 
 tragic of all was the sight of the swarms of soldiers every- 
 where, young men, the flower of the country, who were 
 leaving their families and all, perhaps, never to return. 
 
 The best part of our day was the hour in the dining car 
 where we had a real luncheon of three courses, served to the 
 entire car full of people by two waiters, one of whom spilled 
 a little of everything en route, but in spite of this loss, we had 
 a great plenty, which was fortunate as our dinner consisted 
 of a hard boiled egg apiece and one meat pastry pie between 
 us. This food was snatched up from a station where we 
 stopped five minutes and I only hope that others fared as well 
 
 84 
 
as we did, though I am afraid the woman at the buffet stand 
 did not, for we were told that men fairly grabbed food from 
 her counters and ran back to the train without stopping to 
 pay. Always as soon as we stopped for any length of time, 
 both men and women ran with bottles to the nearest station 
 pump to put in a water supply. 
 
 At Belfort, among crowds of French soldiers, we saw 
 about a dozen carried upon litters and others limping and 
 leaning upon the shoulders of their comrades, evidently the 
 first of the wounded in a skirmish with the Germans. Amidst 
 the rush and excitement at this station, an Englishman, calm 
 and unperturbed, tried to negotiate with the conductor for 
 passage on our car. The conductor gesticulated violently 
 and made it quite plain that there was not an extra seat to be 
 had, but the Englishman, nothing daunted, remarked in a 
 mixture of his own language and a French drawl that the 
 English had made themselves the best friends of the French, 
 and without more ado he boarded our car. Ed came to the 
 rescue and offered his room and berth to the new passenger, 
 for which the Englishman thanked him and remarked with 
 great complacency, "I say, you've not had a shave this morn- 
 ing, have you?" He proved a quite enlivening addition to 
 our car as he was full of conversation — too much so for the 
 fatigued porter, who grew gradually indifferent to his "Que 
 pensez vous de la Guerre?" and "Pour quot arretons nous 
 ici?" and gave up all attempts at answering what Hilda 
 called "foolish questions." 
 
 I asked the porter at about eleven o'clock if he did not 
 think it a good idea to make up our berths, but apparently 
 he was short of bed linen, for he gave me the most decided 
 answer he had yet given any of us, and that was quite nega- 
 tive. All day long, poor man, he had been asked in French, 
 
 85 
 
German and English, when we would reach Paris. He had 
 been on duty for over twenty-four hours, with no chance for 
 relief nor one square meal. As far as I could see, his only 
 food was the scraps of our sumptuous fare which we shared 
 with him. His only answer to all our questions was "Mobi- 
 lization!' Three times the train seemed to have crashed into 
 something and every head went out of the window, our first 
 natural thought being dynamited by the Germans. At the 
 first crash I needed more of an assuring answer than that oft 
 repeated "Mobilization!' Hilda was asleep in one chair and 
 Ed in another, so I turned to a Frenchman who explained 
 the situation to me so satisfactorily that when another shock 
 came and the tumblers on our table broke and added to the 
 noise, and Hilda and Ed, of course, awoke, I was quite ready 
 to assure them that, due to our very heavy train of sixteen 
 compartment cars, when we turned a curve, the cars in the 
 rear in catching up with the forward ones moved with such 
 jerks that a clumsy bumping was the result. 
 
 Our friend the Englishman was sleeping the sleep of the 
 unconcerned in Ed's berth when this last jar awoke him, 
 whereupon he complained to two men outside that their con- 
 versation disturbed his slumber. 
 
 86 
 
Monday, August 3rd. 
 
 Warm and sunny. At four o'clock I watched dawn ap- 
 pear, thankful the weary night was over. It was a still, calm 
 morning which shed its early light over the meadows full of 
 golden wheat, much of it uncut for lack of labourers who 
 have had to drop the scythe and arm themselves with the 
 sword. I do hope reapers may be found, for this year's har- 
 vest has the appearance of a plentiful one and France will 
 need it for her army. 
 
 The little towns seemed asleep as if war had not yet en- 
 tered into their homes. At one small station where we 
 stopped for a few moments, I saw a French dragoon, looking 
 really gorgeous in his fine uniform and high hat with horse- 
 hair plume. He stopped at a house, knocked quietly and 
 waited until a night-capped woman appeared at the upper 
 window ; he evidently asked for a bed in which to rest, and 
 his answer must have been, there was not a vacant one, for I 
 saw him, just as our train started, knocking at the next house, 
 and I could only hope he had better luck. 
 
 It was rather amusing after hearing the discussions of 
 our fellow passengers as to what Paris hotel would consider 
 us as occupants at the hour of two or three in the morning, 
 to arrive at the quite respectable hour of eight o'clock. It 
 was rather a joke, too, on the Englishman who had suggested 
 to us to have our luggage ready at a window through which 
 the "facteur" would seize it, for him to find no "facteur" 
 waiting. But such a Paris! It seemed inconceivable that 
 so great a change could have taken place in our two weeks' 
 absence. The city is fairly turned up side down. We had 
 arrived at the Gare de l'Est and not one porter to relieve us 
 
 87 
 
of our four bags. We had crossed the street before we saw 
 any signs of a porter and then one wholly unenthusiastic 
 man did consent to handle our bags and volunteered the in- 
 formation that the near-by Gare du Nord, to which we were 
 bound, was being used only for military purposes and we 
 would have to take our train from the Gare St. Lazare, way 
 across the city; but how were we to get there? We did not 
 know the way and the porter's efforts to find us a cab were 
 quite futile. Every taxi was rushed about at a break-neck 
 speed full of soldiers or officials having to do with the army, 
 and instead of the customary horse cabs waiting anxiously 
 for a passenger, they were so apparently engaged for the day 
 that they did not even stop to turn back their "libre" signs. 
 There was no tram running today so we gave a fee to our 
 man for having done nothing but hold our bags for five 
 minutes, and started on foot, having little idea as to the direc- 
 tion of our station. It proved a circuitous route so we 
 stopped often to inquire the way. The simple question as 
 to our course brought forth a half dozen responses from as 
 many people who excitedly collected about us, eager to help 
 but with such a volley of French I had to ask them to speak 
 more slowly. Our destination almost reached and our arms 
 tired with the weight of bags, we met an empty horse cab 
 and rode the remaining distance. 
 
 At the station we had to show our London tickets to be 
 allowed to enter — and such a crowd ! We found one empty 
 corner near a buffet where we had a breakfast of chocolate 
 and rolls. Ed left us here, telling us to make the most of the 
 luxury of a chair while he went to inquire about trains for 
 London. There was so much uncertainty apparent in the 
 crowds which thronged the station that while waiting for 
 him, I walked about looking for a telephone booth, thinking 
 
to call up our former Hotel de Meurice and see if they could 
 take care of us if it should turn out to be necessary for us to 
 remain in Paris over night. While doing this, I noticed a pas- 
 sageway with the sign "Terminal Hotel." This proved to be 
 of the greatest good fortune as I walked through into the ho- 
 tel resolved to take any accommodations that were available. 
 The proprietor seemed anxious to be accommodating and 
 although he had only one double room vacant, said he could 
 easily put in an extra cot, so immediately I engaged the room, 
 and a comfort it indeed proved to be! I went back to the 
 station where I had left Hilda and found Ed had returned. 
 He had learned that a train was to be sent to Havre at three- 
 thirty the next morning to take passengers to the steamer La 
 France which had postponed its sailing from the previous 
 Saturday. His instructions were that ticket window number 
 four would be opened at twelve o'clock and that he had bet- 
 ter get in line for that. He first went with us to look at the 
 room I engaged and approved of what had been done. 
 Leaving us there, Hilda and I were soon asleep, but no such 
 luck for Ed. He took only a sandwich and then went to the 
 ticket line. At eleven o'clock the would-be travellers were 
 all told to come and line up along the street outside the door. 
 This they did, and Ed stood there for about five hours. It 
 proved merely to be a ruse on the part of the station officials 
 to get the crowd out of the station, and at six o'clock in the 
 evening, the people were notified that the window was not 
 to be opened at all and that they should all disperse. 
 
 In the meantime Ed had met Dr. Graham Taylor of 
 Chicago, who introduced to him Bishop Hamilton of Bos- 
 ton and two or three other clergymen who together formed 
 part of the American delegation to the International Church 
 Peace Conference which was to have opened this week in 
 Constance. 
 
About four o'clock Ed gave up the idea of standing 
 in the line longer and decided to go to the American Em- 
 bassy to see what he could learn there. While Ed did not 
 wish to obtrude our own affairs upon Ambassador Herrick, 
 when he must be so busy and when there must be so many 
 cases that were much more distressing, he nevertheless wrote 
 on one of his cards that he was staying at the Grand Terminal 
 Hotel with his wife and daughter and might have to ask him 
 for assistance later. Upon arriving at the Embassy, he 
 learned that it was necessary for all Americans to provide 
 themselves with passports and that the French Government 
 had extended, for two or three days, the time in which they 
 might procure them. He was given a numbered card indi- 
 cating his turn to go through the office formalities and was 
 told that he should come back with the card about eleven 
 o'clock the next day. Ambassador Herrick passed where 
 he was standing and he had opportunity merely to say "How- 
 do-you-do" and to ask him to look at the card when he had 
 leisure to do so. 
 
 The evening News says that the Germans are crossing 
 into Luxembourg, having violated the neutrality of Belgium. 
 They gave that country twenty-four hours in which to de- 
 cide if she would allow them to use her territory for their 
 troops, and upon her indignant refusal, their army has 
 started an attack upon her frontier. Great excitement in 
 this city ! The French are frantic at this outrage and all this 
 evening the streets are full of " La Guerre a Berlin' and 
 "Vive la France!" It seems that today France made upon 
 Germany her actual declaration of war. England is plainly 
 attempting to avoid the necessity of declaring war, but an- 
 nounces that she will protect the French sea ports from at- 
 tack. 
 
 90 
 
Tired as I was, there was so much excitement on the 
 streets that I could hardly keep away from the window. In 
 the afternoon we had seen a mob attack a taxi driver and push 
 his cab down the street out of sight. In the evening I had 
 no sooner gone to bed than I heard the angry murmur of a 
 crowd and from the window saw the same occurrence again 
 and watched the crowd until they were out of sight. Un- 
 doubtedly the drivers were Germans. Poor creatures, they 
 will not have a comfortable time in the Paris of today. 
 
 Finally I went to sleep with the strains of the Marseil- 
 laise in my ears and dreamed I had gone with the French to 
 the relief of the Belgians. 
 
 91 
 
Tuesday, August 4th. 
 
 We awoke to the sound of the French National Airs and 
 from our window saw hundreds of men marching along the 
 streets, reservists who had not yet received their uniforms, 
 with wives and children trudging by their sides and helping 
 to carry their queer shaped bags so quickly improvised from 
 necessity. The sight of those responsible and determined 
 looking men who showed no sign of sadness but a steadfast 
 purpose to win for their country, moved me as no full dress 
 parade could. There seems to be such a certainty as to the 
 justice of their cause, no sane person could doubt it. 
 
 With breakfast came the news which France has been 
 waiting for ; the waiter who served us was jubilant over its 
 announcement and I don't wonder. Today England de- 
 clares war against the Teutonic Alliance and definitely binds 
 herself to the support of France and Belgium. 
 
 Hilda and I spent the morning in our room which we 
 turned into a laundry and washed clothes, feeling the want 
 of the extra clean linen which we had not carried in our bags, 
 thinking when we left Switzerland, that we would be in Lon- 
 don Sunday, and back to the things in our trunks. 
 
 Ed started forth again and made an attempt to get 
 berths, second or third class, or anything possible on the 
 La France sailing tomorrow, but there was not a berth 
 left. He met a fortunate Clevelander who had been able to 
 get a reservation on the La France and then stood in line for 
 three hours in order to buy his train ticket. At Cook's Ed 
 was given forty dollars in gold, paying a premium of five 
 dollars to get it. Morgan Harjes, although most obliging 
 and helpful in every way, could only spare us paper money. 
 
 92 
 
Every other bank is closed, even the large Credit Lyonnais. 
 The first use our gold was put to was the payment of a cable 
 to our family in Gloucester. We had waited, on account of 
 the necessity of change, for no paper money was accepted 
 for messages, nor were codes allowed. The cost was eight 
 francs. 
 
 At eleven, Ed went to the Embassy as instructed the day 
 before. He met on the sidewalk outside, Mr. D., a 
 Cleveland friend who had been living in Paris and who 
 agreed to wait for him until he could get his passport and 
 instructions. Mr. Herrick saw him in the crowd and invited 
 him into his office. He was greatly impressed with the stu- 
 pendous job on the shoulders of the Ambassador and his 
 staff. In addition to the crowds of Americans who needed 
 to be cared for, there was the regular and extra business of 
 the Embassy, and on top of all this, the Austrian and Ger- 
 man Governments had, on the withdrawal of their own am- 
 bassadors, placed their interests in care of the representative 
 of the American Government. 
 
 Mr. Herrick thought that the wisest thing to do for those 
 who had no important engagements or early sailing dates 
 was to stay quietly for a while in Paris. His officials had told 
 Ed that it would be necessary to go to the Police Commis- 
 saire in the Arrondissement in which we were staying and 
 get from him a Permit de Sejour, if we were going to stay in 
 Paris, or, a Laisser d' Alter if we wanted to leave the city. 
 This, Mr. Herrick advised promptly doing. He said he had 
 been communicating with the American Government to see 
 if they could not send a naval vessel or army transport over 
 to help get the Americans home. One of his great problems 
 was to furnish funds to those who needed them, including 
 all of us. The school teacher or stenographer, who had come 
 
 93 
 
over with moderate funds and spent them all in the expecta- 
 tion that their vacation was over and they were to sail, were 
 no worse off than the people who carried large letters of 
 credit. No one could get funds for a few days. 
 
 Mr. Herrick asked Ed if he would like to work on the 
 Committee which was being formed, which Ed said he would 
 gladly do after his family were settled with some security, 
 unless in the meantime he was able to get across to London. 
 Meanwhile he referred him to Mr. D., who was awaiting him 
 outside, and who proved to be just the man for Embassy 
 work. 
 
 While waiting in the office before his conversation with 
 Mr. Herrick, Ed found the crowd very interesting. He saw 
 one young woman of not more than thirty, who had been 
 escorting a party of young American girls of about sixteen 
 to eighteen years of age on a European trip. They had got 
 back as far as Paris, had their return tickets, expecting to 
 sail from Cherbourg on a German boat next Saturday and 
 now did not know when they could get away ; without funds, 
 without means of cabling home, without any knowledge of 
 the immediate future, the distress of the young woman re- 
 sponsible for all of these girls may well be imagined. 
 
 We all lunched as economically as possible at the hotel, 
 then started for the office of the Police. The crowd before 
 its doors was as great as ever, and Hilda and I deciding we 
 were not helping Ed nor the crowd by adding our presence, 
 walked about the neighborhood. On the Rue de Clichy we 
 saw the remnants of two stores of German proprietorship ; 
 there were only a few fragments of broken glass to show 
 where the windows had been left by the enraged French. At 
 a street corner there was another controversy between a cab 
 
 94 
 
driver and the occupant of the taxi, and a crowd was already 
 collecting. The driver was apparently trying to make the 
 most of the scarcity of cab service and asking an exorbitant 
 rate, but the crowd took the part of the passenger and the 
 driver made a hasty retreat. 
 
 Finding Ed still before the Police office, Hilda and I 
 were anxious to have another glimpse of the Tuileries and 
 our familiar haunts, so we walked towards the river, passing 
 through street after street of closed shops. Upon many were 
 the words "Pour cause de mobilization." At the meat and 
 grocery stores, signs announced that their doors would be 
 opened at three o'clock, and women with their market bas- 
 kets, their children and dogs, stood patiently in line waiting 
 to buy. 
 
 At the Place Vendome we found the Hotels du Rhin 
 and Ritz closed. The former is the French name for the 
 Rhine. Evidently, fearing a mob attack, the white letters of 
 the name had been painted out. We could see very faintly 
 where they were. The Rue de Rivoli did not at all look its 
 {part. Instead of finding the smiling shop keepers standing 
 at the door step, always alert and ready for our trade, most of 
 the doors were closed and the shutters drawn; while in the 
 few that were open, the owners looked as if they had before 
 them a more serious business than that of feeding and dress- 
 ing the tourists in this general reorganization of life and 
 its industries. 
 
 We found at our attractive Hotel Meurice only one of 
 the attendants whom we had known. The hotel was closing 
 and this porter was superintending the last moving van. He 
 told us that one hundred and twenty-six of the kitchen work- 
 ers had gone to the front and he, himself, was off the next 
 day and he spoke as if he were going off on a holiday, with 
 
 95 
 
the same calm cheerfulness that impressed me so in the Swiss. 
 One hears much of the pity of losing the best of one's coun- 
 try, the educated and cultured, who must go forth and fight 
 at the call to arms, but my heart aches for the waiter, the 
 efficient, faithful man who has given his years to the drudg- 
 ery and service of the hotel guests, knowing few of the com- 
 forts of life. He has spent his efforts tirelessly in waiting 
 upon the wants of others, and with anything but the training 
 needed for the army, marches and camp, he drops his apron 
 and joins the ranks. 
 
 At the Rue de Rivoli entrance of the Meurice, the glass 
 had been knocked out from the doors. The Meurice man- 
 ager was a German, which accounted for that demonstra- 
 tion. A German on the Rue de Castiglione was killed last 
 evening, but the Government had dealt with the mobs 
 promptly and we saw the white paper announcements upon 
 the walls of the Tuileries gardens which show that we are 
 living under martial law. Cafes and restaurants must close 
 at nine o'clock, mob demonstration will be severely pun- 
 ished, there must be no singing in the streets, and cab drivers 
 charging more than ordinary tariff rate will be subject to im- 
 prisonment. 
 
 We sat in the gardens and watched the few families who 
 had come to their usual place of recreation. There was such 
 a marked lack of activity among the mothers and nurses 
 whose fingers are ordinarily so busy with the mending 
 basket. The children's play did not seem to have its usual 
 spontaneity and even the sparrows were almost forgotten ; I 
 saw only one little girl feeding them this afternoon. 
 
 We rested where we had a good view of the Rue de 
 Rivoli and watched the horses that had been requisitioned 
 
 9G 
 
being led away ; the splendid drays, then the cab horses, hun- 
 dreds of them, until only the most dilapidated were left for 
 city use and so forlorn looking were they that I could not 
 have had the heart to ride behind one, if I had had the fare, 
 but lack of money keeps cab rides at a safe distance just now. 
 
 I could afford a copy of "La Patrie" which the women 
 sell every evening, so we were glad to read of three success- 
 ful repulses the Servians had given the Austrians. On the 
 other hand the Germans, this afternoon, were able to over- 
 power of the Russians at the little town of Czenstochow near 
 Lublin. There was a beautiful tribute to Jaures, the much 
 loved socialist, who was assassinated last Saturday. Crowds 
 of his admiring friends attended his funeral at which words 
 of appreciation and praise were spoken by Viviani. 
 
 Ed did not stay in front of the Police station all day. 
 There was a crowd of three or four hundred there, Germans 
 and Austrians were being given the preference. He timed 
 the rate at which they were being taken in and found that 
 only about five went in each hour. He felt, therefore, that if 
 he looked around at the end of each day and found they were 
 still taking people, he could not get into trouble, as he felt 
 that the time allowed for securing the necessary papers 
 would necessarily have to be extended from day to day until 
 all were taken care of. 
 
 97 
 
Wednesday, August 5 th. 
 
 The day began with a shower and we were thankful that 
 we had been able to obtain a little money from Cook's, even 
 though at a premium, because one of the things it enabled 
 us to do was to purchase an umbrella. 
 
 Ed made his usual pilgrimage to the Police and Hilda 
 and I went to the Galeries Lafayette where we luxuriated in 
 thirty-five dollars worth of clothes, which gave us a dress 
 apiece and changes of underclothing, so that now we feel we 
 are prepared to stay in Paris for weeks if necessary. It was 
 enlightening to see how the employers of this leading store 
 are conducting their large organization. In order to keep 
 their men and women employed, they were busy cutting and 
 rolling bandages, and making gray shirts for their soldiers. 
 There was hardly a clerk I talked with who did not have a 
 relative or friend who had gone to the front. They all spoke 
 with appreciation of their employers who would not let them 
 suffer in this hour of need. The hours, of course, were short- 
 ened, the store opening only in the afternoon, but they were 
 given their usual luncheon, and while we were still there, the 
 telephone rang and gave a bulletin of the latest news from 
 the front. As to customers, there were only half a dozen of 
 us during the hour we spent at shopping. 
 
 Our next step was to register at the New York Herald 
 office. These rooms and those of Morgan Harjes are veri- 
 table headquarters for Americans. They come in streams 
 from early morning until the doors are closed. Everybody 
 seems to be looking for friends and acquaintances or wish- 
 ing to have friends and acquaintances find them. It is as- 
 sumed that almost everybody touring through this country 
 
 98 
 
will necessarily drift back to Paris and that all who are trav- 
 eling in Switzerland and Germany will attempt to reach this 
 City or London. Hence, everybody is registering at the 
 office of the New York Herald, the American Express Com- 
 pany and Morgan Harjes. Although our sailings for home 
 are booked for the Laconia from Liverpool, September first, 
 and our trunks are in London, the feeling of uncertainty in 
 the future is so great that we, like everybody else, would take 
 any sailings that were offered us, chancing a refund on our 
 other tickets and the ultimate return of our baggage. 
 
 Accordingly we joined the throng at the office of the 
 Companie Transatlantique to see if there was a new sailing 
 to be had, or, if by a slim chance some passenger booked for 
 the Chicago had given up his passage, but the chance was 
 too slim, the Chicago was full to overflowing. 
 
 We three then lunched at Duval's, near our hotel, for 
 ninety-two cents. Our meals today have reached our maxi- 
 mum of economy — five dollars, tips and all. 
 
 The Figaro says the Germans are trying to break in 
 upon the Belgian frontier. 
 
 Sir Edward Gray has announced to the House of Com- 
 mons the purport of Germany's note asking Belgium to 
 allow the Germans to march through her land, also the re- 
 sponse of that brave little country. This communication was 
 greeted with great applause. Japan did not ally herself to 
 Austria, but will side with the Triple Entente in loyal ad- 
 herence to the obligations of her treaty with England. 
 
 The Herald speaks enthusiastically of the work of the 
 American Ambassador and his wife. In fact, it is seldom 
 that one man in a difficult position receives such unanimous 
 
 99 
 
praise from all sources. American travelers, Americans resi- 
 dent in Paris, the French, all commend the fine work Mr. 
 Herrick is doing. A committee is being formed to take up 
 the work of providing for those of our countrymen who are 
 in need; to help find accommodation, for all a passage home 
 as soon as possible, to assist in locating and bringing to- 
 gether families and friends and the multifarious other things 
 that are necessary to be done until things become adjusted 
 to the conditions imposed by the war. This committee is 
 under the chairmanship of Judge Gary. 
 
 While many people are suffering every mental concern 
 as to how they will fare, the courage and mutual helpfulness 
 of every one is noticeable to a degree and makes us proud of 
 our countrymen. Occasionally someone will strike a little 
 different note. For example, Ed heard today of a prominent 
 United States Senator who had arrived without any baggage, 
 had ruined the clothes he was wearing, was in a suit which 
 he had borrowed from Judge Gary and could not quite un- 
 derstand why all war preparations could not be temporarily 
 
 deferred until the Senator from could get a suit of 
 
 clothes. 
 
 This evening Ed introduced himself to a gentleman 
 who, with his wife and two children, were in the hotel dining- 
 room. He proved to be a former United States cabinet mem- 
 ber, Mr. B., whom he found attractive, as were also the ladies 
 and his son, who had just graduated from Princeton. 
 
 Hilda and I have quite decided, if we are to be here 
 another day, to walk over to the American Church, which 
 has been made a temporary shelter for refugees and to offer 
 our services in whatever way we can. 
 
 100 
 
Thursday, August 6th. 
 
 In the morning Ed made his same unoriginal trip to the 
 Police. 
 
 Mr. B. of New York showed Ed a Herald in which the 
 Packard Company, in a notice tucked away in a corner, ad- 
 vertised trips to French ports. This seemed a God-send to 
 the many tourists who had not been able to board a train, if 
 only they were able to pay the fare for touring and could be 
 one of the comparative few who could be accommodated this 
 way. Ed and Mr. B., without waiting to tell us about this, 
 immediately went to the Packard office and secured a car 
 apiece at a charge of one hundred and fifty dollars to be paid 
 if they succeeded in delivering us at Havre. Ed had not been 
 able to secure any money adequate to take care of this charge 
 or even to pay his hotel bill, but nevertheless arranged to 
 have it call for us at the earliest time they could start us 
 away, which they said would be three o'clock. 
 
 It was then necessary for him to provide himself with 
 funds. Mr. B. offered to introduce him to Mr. Harjes, who 
 was acting as Treasurer for the American committee. He 
 told Mr. Harjes that he had engaged the car, that he had a 
 hotel bill to pay, that he wanted enough French money to 
 take care of us and get us back to Paris should we fail to get 
 through to the coast, and enough English money — prefer- 
 ably gold, to keep him two or three days until he could make 
 his connections in London, should we succeed in getting 
 through. He had been told that one or two similar requests 
 had been made the day before and that when five hundred 
 dollars had been mentioned as the sum desired, those who 
 had solicited the money had been able to get only three hun- 
 dred. Ed, accordingly, asked for five hundred dollars and 
 
 101 
 
much to his surprise, due undoubtedly to Mr. B.'s introduc- 
 tion, he was told that the amount asked was entirely reason- 
 able, and got it. 
 
 So far he had not been able to reach the Commissaire of 
 Police to get his passport stamped with the Laisser d' Aller or 
 permission to go. Fortunately he met Dr. Graham Taylor 
 again, who told him there was a special Commissaire in the 
 Gare St. Lazare, authorized to issue these permits. Through 
 Dr. Taylor's influence, he was able to reach this official, and 
 got the necessary authority stamped upon our passports. 
 
 It was noon before he was able to get back to the hotel 
 and notify us to get our things in order for the start for 
 Havre. It seemed to us like a momentous decision. In Paris 
 we at least had shelter and a place to rest our heads at night. 
 We could not be sure that we could get through to Havre. 
 It seemed entirely possible that if we did reach there, we 
 would find no boats crossing the Channel. Furthermore, it 
 was almost certain that if there were no boats, we would find 
 thousands of Americans and English who had gone to the 
 coast for the same purpose, who would have more than filled 
 all the hotels. If such should prove to be the case when we 
 reached Havre, what were we going to be able to do? Never- 
 theless the decision was made and the cars came for us about 
 three o'clock. The condition of the times was brought close 
 home to us during the morning when a porter removed the 
 cot from our room, saying that the two top floors of the hotel 
 were being converted into a hospital and that they would 
 require the cot for there. 
 
 We said good-bye to our host of the Terminal who had 
 treated us with such thought and courtesy in spite of his 
 much curtailed force of domestics. Our bill for the three 
 nights in his comfortable hotel was only thirty-six dollars and 
 
 102 
 
eighty-five cents, when he had a chance to charge us any 
 amount and we could not have complained. His hotel has 
 been full of Americans who have crossed the water to spend 
 money and idle away their hours, meanwhile his peaceful 
 country has become a battlefield, his men are being called 
 away daily, his supply of provisions has run short and yet 
 he has catered to these foreign guests of his without the 
 slightest sign of impatience or annoyance. 
 
 We drove first to the Packard office to arrange the pay- 
 ment for the car. Ed told them that he could only pay them 
 fifty dollars in money and would give them a check for the 
 other hundred payable at his bank in Cleveland. To his 
 surprise and delight they were perfectly willing to accept 
 this arrangement. While this was just another instance of 
 the way in which everybody helped during these trying days, 
 we felt very appreciative of the whole treatment we had re- 
 ceived from the Paris representative of the Packard Com- 
 pany. 
 
 At three-thirty, it seemed almost a miracle, we passed 
 through the Porte de Champerret and were soon making our 
 way along the outskirts of St. Germain. A break-neck speed 
 was necessary to reach our destination before night-fall so 
 we lurched from one side of the road to the other in anything 
 but comfort. According to a new regulation which was en- 
 forced today for the first time, and of which the Packard peo- 
 ple had not been advised before we started, no automobiles 
 were allowed to travel on the high roads after six o'clock. 
 The roads were lined with soldiers, troops and farm horses 
 and wagons full of provisions, whole regiments of them 
 being led to the concentration camps, and at every smallest 
 town or station we were thoroughly looked over and required 
 to show our permit. 
 
 103 
 
In the fields of Vernon was a great collection of material 
 for the army, motors, big and little, delivery vans upon which 
 were the names of familiar dry goods stores and huge furni- 
 ture trucks all in waiting for the next move. In one town 
 we passed a procession of some fifty little children from an 
 orphan asylum under the escort of two nuns. Ed remarked, 
 "They, at least, cannot lose their fathers." 
 
 It was ten minutes of six and Havre seemed to be fading 
 away in the dim distance. We were making our usual stop 
 for investigation and were warned that under no conditions 
 could we run after six o'clock. The Packard was put to full 
 speed and we fairly flew along that country road. At six-ten, 
 at our sixteenth halt, we were told our time was up and we 
 could go no further. We were in a very small village and 
 the townspeople were so impressed with the authority of their 
 official who, by one word, could stop our Packards, that they 
 all joined in telling us how impossible it was to go further. 
 As the crowd grew larger, our hopes diminished, it seemed 
 such a forlorn place in which to spend the night. But as a 
 last resort our chauffeur asked if we could not pass on to 
 Rouen providing the next guards did not stop us. After due 
 consideration and anxious waiting, we were allowed to go, 
 although I am sure the villagers expected our return within 
 a few moments. 
 
 The seventeenth guard was most generous ; we shouted 
 our thanks and a hearty "Bon Chance' to him as we sped 
 away. At six-thirty, with many sighs of relief, we drove up 
 in front of the very comfortable Grand Hotel de la Poste, 
 where we spent the night. 
 
 Neither Hilda nor the B. family had seen the Cathedral 
 so they walked over to it and saw what they could in the dusk. 
 
 104 
 
Friday, August 7th. 
 
 We were up at six and in our automobiles and on the 
 road before seven-thirty, the principal reason for our early 
 start being the fact that our chauffeur was expecting to be 
 called at any moment into army service and wanted to hurry 
 back. Furthermore, if a boat was to sail that evening, we 
 wanted to attempt to secure rooms before any possible train 
 from Paris might arrive. 
 
 We reached Havre after a rainy but beautiful ride, the 
 country was so delightfully fresh and green, dripping and 
 soaked horses and soldiers we met everywhere, and our 
 greetings of "Bon Chance" and "Vive La France" were 
 answered with cordiality. There were no drooping spirits 
 among these soldiers, though the skies continued to pour 
 forth their torrents of water. 
 
 At the steamship office we had no trouble in engaging 
 rooms for our evening passage, then we looked about for a 
 shelter in which to spend the day. The hotel near the dock 
 had every room filled, but further in the town at the Nor- 
 mandy, we were given two rooms, one for each family, and 
 as I was tired I found bed a very comfortable place. 
 
 Ed brought me all the local French papers he could find 
 and to my horror, I read that the French are having a fearful 
 time in holding Liege. After the first German attack, when 
 the bridge had been blown to pieces, the Germans had, with 
 their marvelous machine organization, made a pontoon. 
 The Liege guns had destroyed it ; still another pontoon was 
 set up across the Meuse and that has met the same fate from 
 the Liegois. Each time scores of soldiers have been drowned 
 or killed and yet there are more to fill their places. There 
 
 105 
 
are said to be only forty thousand soldiers in Liege and it 
 does not seem possible that they can hold out against such 
 masses. The first English regiments are expected to arrive 
 in Havre tonight. 
 
 To our amazement, we heard that the La France, due 
 to sail on Wednesday, is still detained in this harbour. 
 
 At dinner we met an American who had just arrived 
 on the Savoie and had heard of the war by wireless on the 
 Atlantic. There is an Austrian Count held a prisoner in this 
 hotel, we were told. 
 
 We boarded the Normandy in the evening, and at ten 
 o'clock were under way and ready for a good night's sleep. 
 
 10G 
 
X 
 
 > 
 < 
 
 o 
 
Saturday, August 8th. 
 
 Rainy. Passed through the customs with no trouble, 
 an extra precaution being that all travelers not British sub- 
 jects must register full address and ages, etc., and of course 
 our passport and our permit to leave France Laisser d'Aller 
 had to be shown. The London train left at eight-thirty and 
 all the way to that city we buried ourselves in the papers to 
 find the latest news of war and conditions in England. Much 
 was said in the Times of the sinking of the "Amphion" which 
 occurred last week, but of which we had not yet heard, so 
 extraordinarily careful has the English Press been in hold- 
 ing back war news. It seems that H. M. S. Amphion sighted 
 the Konigen Luise, a German mine layer, and as the latter 
 refused to stop when a shot was fired across her bow, the 
 Amphion gave chase. The German ship fired, then the de- 
 stroyers surrounded and sank her. The Captain, furious, 
 threatening to kill his men if they surrendered, was taken 
 prisoner with his crew. When returning to port came the 
 tragedy to the Amphion. She struck a sunken mine and 
 the explosion ripped her fore part and badly burned both 
 Germans and British who escaped drowning. About half 
 the number aboard did escape and now the German sailors, 
 recuperating in the hospitals, seem quite content not to be 
 fighting. In fact, from all I read, the German soldiers have 
 gone into this war half-heartedly and the German press is 
 supposed to have incited their people to war by untrue tales 
 of French and English tyranny, and they have made a great 
 point of the cruelty of the Cossacks about to enter Germany 
 and devour it. 
 
 The report of the first battle at Liege of August 3rd is 
 as told in the Times: "The advance guard of the Kaiser's 
 
 107 
 
army was approaching from the westward, the attack was 
 along a wide stretch of land north of the town of Vise and on 
 the south below Liege. The enemy opened with a general 
 advance on the forts, trying to cover the attack by artillery 
 fire. But the artillery was not heavy enough, their big siege 
 guns had not arrived, so, incredible as it may seem, those 
 poor soldiers were marched to death, soldier to soldier. Just 
 as Napoleon won some of his victories by a sudden applica- 
 tion of mere mass, so these German generals fairly drove 
 their men, stricken by terror between fear of discipline on 
 the one hand and on the other fear of death in the face of 
 the guns of the fort, and the result was terrible masses of 
 dead accumulated in the fields, as a Belgian soldier described 
 it, 'Death in the haystacks.' " 
 
 Meanwhile in deep trenches between the forts the Bel- 
 gian troops lay firing on their enemy with rifles. At the same 
 time the forts thundered their cannon, and horrible to con- 
 ceive of, fresh detachment after detachment rushed toward 
 the trenches, broken and shattered before the Belgian fusil- 
 lade. 
 
 Toward afternoon the battle raged fiercer along all the 
 lines. At one point the Germans succeeded in gaining a 
 foothold on the slopes under the guns, forgetting that having 
 passed the zone of fire of the great guns, the machine guns 
 were still awaiting them. It took just one moment to sweep 
 those slopes clean of German soldiers. The men in the 
 trenches fired at not only fifty yard range, but grew im- 
 patient for nearer work and began with bayonet charges and 
 then it was the steel of the bayonets more than anything else 
 which struck terror to the troops of the Kaiser. 
 
 At Vise the Germans were attempting another attack. 
 
 108 
 
The Belgians had blown up the bridges between the frontier 
 and that town and the enemy had to build others. In one 
 case the Belgians lay concealed while a pontoon was being 
 erected and as soon as the work was finished, they opened 
 fire; the bridge was destroyed and many of its engineers. 
 After fierce fighting, the Germans entered Vise, but did not, 
 as has been reported, massacre the inhabitants. During the 
 night of August 5th, the forts of Liege were fired on in- 
 cessantly but all the forts held out. On the morning of the 
 6th a number of Uhlans entered Liege with Belgian cock- 
 ades in their hats and with somewhat of a Belgian disguise, 
 so at first they were not recognized as Germans. They ap- 
 proached General Lehman, but were discovered in time so 
 that not a man of the patrol was left alive. Then two Ger- 
 man spies, disguised as French Officers, gained access to the 
 town and were being conducted to the General, their object 
 being to assassinate him, but their plan miscarried and they 
 were shot. The fact that fire broke out in several places in 
 town gave rise to a false rumor that Liege had been taken, 
 and it must have been due to this that we received the news 
 at Havre of the fall of Liege. All day long Thursday the 
 attack continued with fearful scenes. They charged, they 
 shot, and struggled at hand grips and always it was a deadly 
 encounter. To add to the horror, a life and death strife was 
 going on in mid air. A Belgian lost his life in repelling the 
 attack of a huge Zeppelin ; another airship with two Belgians 
 rose above Liege and flew over the western forts. Both Ger- 
 man and Belgian batteries opened fire upon it, the latter, of 
 course, under misapprehension. The shells, fortunately, did 
 not reach the machine but burst under it, giving the airmen 
 the most appalling earthquake feeling imaginable, but they 
 returned, by some miracle, to land in safety. 
 
 The battle was only over at night-fall when the German 
 
 109 
 
fire slackened. The Belgians with their forts untaken and 
 filled with pride and enthusiasm of their plucky army, were 
 a contrast to the poor soldiers of the Kaiser. To add to their 
 terrible loss and weariness, through bad tactics, the big guns 
 had not come when required. Food, too, had been delayed 
 and for two days many of them went hungry. No wonder 
 they are dispirited and have lost heart when war is just be- 
 ginning. What has become of the automatic machine army 
 of Germany? The Times seems to think its death knell has 
 been sounded. 
 
 The French are reported once more in Alsace, occupy- 
 ing Altkirch and Muhlhausen. On Friday at midnight the 
 French troops and an infantry regiment attacked Altkirch 
 in a furious charge; they carried the German trenches and 
 put the Germans to flight. 
 
 Back from the war to reality in the shape of the Water- 
 loo Station. To our amazement, we found plenty of porters 
 and even a long line of taxis, empty and waiting for pas- 
 sengers. Such a difference from France where every man 
 has turned soldier and all vehicles requisitioned for military 
 use. The station was crowded with more tourists than sol- 
 diers. The Scotch in their kilts were the soldiers most in 
 evidence and splendid looking men they were. The English 
 taxi was a joy to me, driven so carefully and moderately com- 
 pared with the reckless dash of the taxis on the continent. 
 On the streets British flags were flying, but every building 
 was not covered with them as was the case in France. There 
 was no shouting or uproar in the streets and except for the 
 khaki uniforms everywhere, we seemed to have found refuge 
 in a land of every day occurrences. 
 
 At Almond's Hotel in Clifford Street, most fortunately 
 
 no 
 
rooms were still reserved for us, although the capacity of 
 the house was taxed to its utmost. The clerk of the hotel told 
 me that there had been shouting and uproarious singing on 
 the streets at first, but that was quickly silenced. The banks 
 had closed for a few days aside from the regular bank holi- 
 days which came about a week ago, so that no withdrawals 
 could be made. A diplomatic move and a panic saved ! And 
 now all banks are again opened with the confidence of the 
 people assured. 
 
 We found a splendid collection of mail at Brown, Ship- 
 ley's after having gone ten days without any. Also plenty 
 of money was to be had. The ten shillings, one pound and 
 five pounds are issued in paper, but the shops do not look 
 askance at paper money here as they did in France. No 
 word from our friend in Berlin, I am sorry to say. We 
 hoped she might have crossed from Holland, but apparently 
 she could not leave Germany in time. 
 
 London is making a brave effort to keep her trades go- 
 ing, the stores are all opened and customers are earnestly 
 asked to keep up their orders for the welfare of the men and 
 women employed. There is plenty of petrol and we are 
 urged to use motors and help keep the automobile companies 
 going. Horses by the hundreds have been requisitioned so 
 there are few of the hansom cabs so typical of London. 
 The Government is insuring the merchant ships at eighty- 
 five per cent of their value so that trade will not suffer. 
 
 At Almond's, we are splendidly fed, with once more the 
 delightful luxury of butter. We have been told apologeti- 
 cally by the chambermaid that there is not an overabundance 
 of towels, due to the requisition of the laundry vans, but that 
 is the only shortage at all apparent. 
 
 in 
 
The evening paper says the school children are called 
 again into session after only a fortnight's vacation, the rea- 
 son being to provide the children of the poor with meals. 
 Provision is made for dogs of the poor so parents will not 
 have the extra animals as well as children to feed. 
 
 Our afternoon was spent in unpacking two trunks 
 which we were most fortunate in getting all the way from 
 Zurich so promptly. Two are missing still, but the porter 
 says every other tourist is without at least part of his baggage. 
 Ed feels a most comfortable sense of security in this land of 
 English-speaking people, and relief at having landed his 
 family safely. He has heard from Berger's that they mailed 
 to Morgan Harjes fifty pounds in gold, taking it for granted 
 we were in need. 
 
 1J2 
 
Sunday, August 9th. 
 
 Still overcast. Walked to St. James and heard the Rev. 
 Canon McCormick preach "Not Peace, but the Sword." A 
 band of friends have taken great exception to England's 
 forward war movement, calling war for any cause an excuse 
 for legitimate murder. He explained that the vast difference 
 between murder as distinct from war is due to the motive 
 behind, the difference between the individual going out to 
 kill another individual as distinct from a mass fighting in a 
 just cause. As to the cause, there can not be a doubt in the 
 mind of any true Briton. By the signing of the Triple En- 
 tente, made for the preservation of peace in Europe, Great 
 Britain bound herself to stand by her allies, France and 
 Russia. If she had simply acted with them in fair weather 
 and had deserted them in the hour of danger, her honour 
 would have been badly stained, but if she had stood by and 
 watched Germany in her violation of Belgian neutrality, she 
 would have been guilty of an infamy as yet unheard of in 
 the history of the British Empire. Urged by Herr von 
 Bethman Hollweg to disregard the "scrap of paper" the 
 country has risen in all her might and has pledged her last 
 shilling and her last man to protect the rights and the homes 
 of those people against which such a crime has been com- 
 mitted, to put down the tyrants and aggressors who have 
 forgotten the spirit of Christ in their desire of greed and 
 power, and never can our countries be free from war and 
 strife until Christianity has taken possession of the entire 
 world. 
 
 In the afternoon Hilda and I walked to Westminster, 
 but were too hopelessly late to enter the church, it was so 
 crowded, with doors guarded and another crowd waiting 
 
 113 
 
outside, due to the intercession prayers for the country. We 
 mounted a bus on the Strand and went to St. Paul's where 
 we heard afternoon services and beautiful music. 
 
 The News this evening reports that General Leman 
 would not allow the twenty-four hours armistice asked for 
 by the Germans in which to bury their dead. It sounds cruel, 
 but it would have offered them an advantage the Belgians 
 dared not give. It seems now as if the Germans could hardly 
 be ready for an offensive movement for three or four days 
 after their terrific loss of twenty-five thousand out of one 
 hundred and twenty-five thousand men. In acknowledg- 
 ment of the heroic defense of Liege, the French President 
 bestowed on that town the Cross of the Legion of Honour. 
 
 The nephew of Emperor William in charge of the Ger- 
 man cavalry is supposed to have been captured. Germany 
 and Austria-Hungary are exercising extraordinary pressure, 
 not only upon the Italian Government, but upon King Vic- 
 tor Emmanuel himself, with a view towards participating in 
 this European conflict, but the King and government remain 
 firm in their refusal to abandon their attitude of neutrality, 
 rejecting tempting offers of additions of territory from the 
 two nations. By the terms of the Triple Alliance, Italy is 
 not compelled to join in an offensive war, only in defense for 
 Austria or Germany, but in this case both nations assumed 
 the offensive without as much as consulting Italy. In Rome, 
 President Wilson's offer for mediation has produced an ex- 
 cellent effect and Italy will support the American proposal 
 warmly. 
 
 In German Togoland, the port of Lome on the west 
 coast of Africa was seized by British forces, no resistance 
 offered. Austrian troops have crossed the Russian frontier 
 
 114 
 
near the Roumanian border and set fire to Russian villages. 
 While near Servia, the Russians are falling back upon the 
 Danube. Lord Kitchener's "call to arms" has met with 
 great success, there have been forty thousand recruits in a 
 week and in the House of Commons Saturday, offers of 
 forty-eight thousand troops to be sent to this country from 
 Canada, Australia and New Zealand were accepted. 
 
 It is reported that a corps of ten thousand motor cars had 
 been offered by the auto association for service at home, for 
 police purposes and abroad, also offers from a thousand 
 owners to place their cars and themselves at the disposal of 
 the war office. Also a bill was read to give the Board of 
 Agriculture and Fisheries and Local Governing Board 
 powers with respect to housing, so that instead of spending 
 four millions for the relief of the distress, this amount should 
 be spent in building houses, setting the men to work in their 
 own trade instead of giving money to the unemployed, thus 
 it would be in the nature of an investment rather than a chari- 
 table grant. Then to prevent food corners, a bill was intro- 
 duced by which the Board of Trade should be endowed with 
 the same powers for requisitioning food stuffs as the naval 
 and military authorities possess, so that in case of unreason- 
 able withholding of supplies, the Board could take posses- 
 sion of supplies, paying to the owners such prices as might 
 be decided reasonable. 
 
 Saturday the King received Sir Edward Goschen, the 
 British Ambassador at Berlin, just returned from his excit- 
 ing experiences. The Austrian Ambassador is still here. 
 Germans who have failed to register are being arrested every- 
 where, eighty and ninety at a time. 
 
 115 
 
Monday, August 10th. 
 
 In the morning we went to the Savoy Hotel where we 
 found, it seemed to me, all of the Americans supposed to be 
 on this side of the water. The Savoy Hotel has given over 
 special rooms for the use of Americans, and I don't believe 
 there is a busier place in the City of London than the Ameri- 
 can Citizens' Committee White Room. There are commit- 
 tees on finance, transportation, hotels, men's relief and wom- 
 en's relief, registration, baggage, post office, bulletin, and a 
 committee for Americans stranded on the continent. 
 
 A paper called the American Bulletin is published daily 
 and distributed freely through the kindness of Mr. Self ridge, 
 to every American. One of its columns, "Who's where?" is 
 really appalling, for it shows the anxiety of the families of 
 the missing travelers ; one of its columns gives a list of two 
 hundred names of whom information is desired. Then there 
 is the information list, an answer to the "Who's where?" In 
 this column we answered an inquiry of the C. family, that 
 we had seen Mr. and Mrs. C. last, safe and comfortable in 
 Zurich on August ist. We also advertised for our missing 
 friend heard of last in Berlin. Then there is the subscription 
 list, and it is amazing to see how generously Americans are 
 giving their money to help those less fortunate. 
 
 Typewriters were busily clicking reports of the differ- 
 ent committees, groups of people were continuously finding 
 old friends and making new ones and I believe many per- 
 sons, aside from the committee, spend their entire days in 
 this most interesting center. I am sure Ed will find his way 
 here often, for one could hardly miss meeting at least one 
 acquaintance at any hour of the day. 
 
 116 
 
The afternoon was very warm and the coolness of West- 
 minster Abbey delightful. Walking through the nave we 
 went slowly, trying to absorb the wonder of it all, its tombs of 
 statesmen, generals and remarkable men, living today in the 
 minds of every Briton as vividly as if they were still upon this 
 earth. We looked into the Poet's Corner and lingered long 
 in the beautiful chapel of Henry VII. There were the 
 figures of Henry and his wife Elizabeth, lying side by side. 
 Then there was the tomb of Mary, Queen of Scots, the two 
 sisters Elizabeth and Mary, and it was for this Mary that 
 almost the last Catholic mass was held in the Cathedral. A 
 long line of Monks led the procession, the Monks knowing 
 that this would be the last service in which they would ever 
 take part, and awaiting them were four bishops and the Ab- 
 bot of Westminster in their most magnificent robes. The 
 sister, Elizabeth, with all of her hatred of the Catholic serv- 
 ice, had to be present on this occasion. 
 
 On the outside of the white marble tomb beneath which 
 the two sisters rest are the words, "Consorts both in throne 
 and grave, Elizabeth and Mary, in hope of our resurrection." 
 It is good to feel that James of Scotland honored his mother 
 by bringing her to this beautiful resting place "that the like 
 honor might be done his dearest Mother." 
 
 Oliver Cromwell, the short-lived Edward VI, the two 
 small tombs of the baby daughters of James I, one in the 
 shape of a cradle, the bones of the two young murdered 
 princes whose death cast such a blot upon their villain uncle, 
 John, other princes and dukes ; and in this chapel, in the most 
 appropriate place is Dean Stanley and his wife, Augusta. 
 This Dean of the Abbey knew more about the entire abbey, 
 its original history and all, than any other man in the world. 
 
 Rode home through Hyde Park, which was so empty 
 
 117 
 
compared to the sight Hilda saw a month ago. Hardly a 
 victoria to be seen and only four people riding in Rotten 
 Row. The crowd is always about Buckingham Palace 
 now, it seems, such is the spirit of enthusiasm and loyalty to 
 the King and Queen in this time of calamity. 
 
 The French have actually entered Alsace, on Friday 
 night they came into Altkirch, their infantry regiment made 
 a furious charge upon the German trenches. They were 
 given an enthusiastic welcome by the old men who had seen 
 the other war. Next Muhlhausen, a large town nine miles 
 north of Altkirch was taken and here, too, a warm welcome 
 was given to the French after forty-four years of waiting, and 
 the Germans were driven ten miles to the river. It was re- 
 ported that the Goeben and Breslau were sighted in the 
 Aegian Sea yesterday. It is also announced that the Gov- 
 ernment of Montenegro has informed the Austro-Hungar- 
 ian Minister in Cettinje that it considers itself in a state of 
 war against Austria. This makes the sixth country in arms 
 against Germany and Austria. 
 
 118 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY— Tomb of Queen Elizabeth 
 
Tuesday, August 11th. 
 
 Called on Miss R. at the Strand Palace Hotel, then 
 walked to St. Paul's Cathedral. Among the tombs we found 
 the memorials of many of England's most beloved heroes. 
 
 There was the tomb of General Gordon of Khartoum 
 fame, Sir Thomas Picton, who fell at the battle of Waterloo, 
 and many others. And while we were reading the inscrip- 
 tions upon the monuments of these warriors, a service of in- 
 tercession for the soldiers of today was being held in the choir 
 part of the Cathedral. There is a fine bronze relief in mem- 
 ory of Sir Arthur Sullivan who brought such delightful 
 music into our world, and most imposing of all is the sar- 
 cophagus of the Duke of Wellington, the bronze figure of 
 the Duke lying upon the tomb. 
 
 Up the winding stairs a guide led us into the whispering 
 gallery and there while we stood opposite, it seemed a mile 
 away, we heard the echoes of his whispered history of the 
 building of St. Paul. Designed by Sir Christopher Wren, 
 it was begun in 1675. Unlike other Cathedrals, the great 
 part of the cost, amounting to about eight hundred and fifty 
 thousand pounds, was defrayed by a tax on coal entering the 
 port of London. The architect received a salary of two hun- 
 dred pounds a year during the building, emphatically whis- 
 pered by the guide, as an item of utmost importance, also the 
 fact that the cathedral is the fourth largest in the world. 
 
 For luncheon we found our way, just as Mr. Pickwick 
 accompanied by Sam Weller did years ago, down Fleet Street 
 into Wine Office Court, a dark alley three feet wide which 
 looks as if any crime might be committed in its shadows. 
 Quite suddenly, before we realized we had discovered our 
 
 119 
 
Tavern, there was the red lamp over a shabby little door, with 
 the words, "Ye Cheshire Cheese" and we stepped into its en- 
 trance, beheld the historic bar and felt we were following in 
 the footsteps of our ancestors, generations of wits and phi- 
 losophers. Into the favorite tavern with its dingy walls and 
 freshly sawdusted floor, carrying with it the scent of ages, 
 we found just room enough to squeeze on to one of the 
 benches, like church pews. There were crowds of sight- 
 seers already enjoying the famous chops and cheese. The 
 seats were hard and so was the oak-paneled wall at our backs, 
 but the atmosphere was a delight. At the opposite corner 
 from where we sat was the favorite seat of Johnson and Gold- 
 smith, the polished spots upon the wall showing the marks 
 where their celebrated heads had leaned. Our wooden table 
 was covered with a spotless cloth and our china was the blue 
 willow of the design used by our forefathers. It did seem in- 
 congruous to see the guests in such modern attire, so out of 
 harmony with the quaintness of the place where two hundred 
 years ago buckles, cocked hats and Elizabethan gowns 
 abounded. Our waiter, too, looked quite differently from 
 his predecessor on the wall, but his spirit was the same, and 
 with the best of good will he served us with the hottest mixed 
 grill of a chop, a kidney, a sausage, a browned slice of to- 
 mato and the best peas I have ever tasted, and of course, ale 
 from the old time pewter mugs. Then followed the Cheshire 
 Cheese, scorching hot and delicious. 
 
 We left our benches to look into the kitchen. There 
 we saw the original grill over which our delicacies had been 
 broiled and the copper kettles singing over the hot coals just 
 as they sang a hundred years ago. Upstairs, we saw the chair 
 used daily by the great Johnson, while above is the inscrip- 
 tion, "More regal in state than many Kings." On the walls 
 
 120 
 
of this interesting room are cupboards containing old plates 
 and punch glasses and the spoon used to stir the pudding for 
 at least three generations. 
 
 There are many clubs whose members have their meet- 
 ings regularly at this Tavern. Among them the Johnson 
 Club, made up of eminent men in literature and art. These 
 members bind themselves to sup together annually about 
 December 13th, the anniversary of the Doctor's death. They 
 come in costume consistent with Johnsonian days and as 
 nearly as possible resembling those of Garrick, Boswell, 
 Goldsmith and the Doctor, etc. Leaving the old grandfather 
 clock at the foot of the stairway, we found a guide, one of 
 Dickens' own characters, the sort of a person never to be 
 seen out of London, who wanted to show us the best part of 
 the building and the only part, so he said, which survived 
 the fire of 1666. Under a narrow vaulted' door-way, we went 
 down the stone steps into the most antique wine cellar, where 
 some order of monks — I don't remember of what order — hid 
 away their wines of all brews and ages. There were dust- 
 covered barrels and dust-covered bottles in every nook and 
 corner of this musty, ancient cellar. There was one gas pipe 
 which lent us a light, a very flickering one, by which we 
 peeped through the cobwebs and into the corners until we 
 had praised this spot to the satisfaction of our conductor and 
 were allowed to go once more into the sunshine of Fleet 
 Street. 
 
 Back again to the evening papers by which I see the 
 Germans have compelled the French to evacuate Muhl- 
 hausen, but in upper Alsace the French remain masters. The 
 French army is already in Belgium and, to the joy of the 
 British, is advancing through the Ardennes region to join 
 hands with the Belgian Army. The bombardment of the 
 
 121 
 
forts at Liege still continues without intermission, but every 
 fort holds out. 
 
 The Uhlans seem to be used for the most reckless work 
 of wire cutting and spying, etc. One who was recently cap- 
 tured was found to be the bearer of a map marked with the 
 marches of the German Army. The Germans, according 
 to this map, were to have been in Brussels August 3rd and at 
 Lille August 5th. A force of Uhlans entered the town hall 
 of Tongres and carried off seven thousand six hundred francs 
 from the treasury of the town and ten thousand from the post 
 office to feed the rest of the starving Uhlans. 
 
 The Bulgarian government is demanding an appropria- 
 tion of money for mobilization purposes. Also the Grand 
 Vizier of Turkey insists on the precautionary step of Turkish 
 mobilization. 
 
 From a point northeast of Liege to Metz, a battle line of 
 about two hundred miles is being formed. In the South the 
 Germans have penetrated the French line over the Luxem- 
 bourg frontier and are advancing through the Grand Duchy. 
 The King and Queen visited Aldershot today to see the 
 troops encamped there. 
 
 122 
 
Wednesday, August 12th. 
 
 In the morning we shopped with Miss R. and as we have 
 done almost daily, stopped in front of the large window of 
 Selfridge's where the crowd is sure to be looking for the 
 latest news from the scene of war. On an enormous map the 
 line of battle on land and sea is traced day by day, the differ- 
 ent nations' colors showing how the countries stand. Every 
 store has banks for the Prince of Wales' fund; we always 
 drop our change in them and I have never yet seen an empty 
 box. 
 
 We rode on the bus down to the Fleet Street district and 
 lunched at the old much famed chop house, Pymm's. Our 
 waiter showed great pride in this establishment of which he 
 was a most efficient part, and we can bear witness to the fact 
 that no better lobster nor suet pudding than he gave us can 
 be had in all of London. 
 
 Dr. H. came for dinner; he had been at St. Malo and 
 had just gone from there to Holland when the war broke out, 
 from there he crossed on the same last boat upon which 
 everyone who has come from that country seems to have 
 traveled. He told us of quite a few friends who have booked 
 for America in steerage and in second class. 
 
 Ed passed most of the day at the American Committee 
 rooms at the Savoy. 
 
 The food problem in England is most encouraging, 
 while that of Germany looks rather black, so much so that 
 it will be impossible for her to fight in the winter if she can- 
 not keep her seas open. From a country in which her people 
 were great tillers of the soil, Germany has become a country 
 
 123 
 
of great cities and dwindling farmer population. Out of her 
 resources, Germany can only provide about eighty-six per 
 cent of her people's nourishment. She buys her milk and 
 wheat from Russia. That market is closed. Also, Rou- 
 mania has supplied her with wheat, but if Roumania remains 
 neutral and is willing to sell, how are cargoes to be shipped? 
 The Dardenelles may be closed any day except to neutral 
 powers. Equally small are her chances of grain from United 
 States or beef from Buenos Aires, for such shipments could 
 not run the gauntlet of the vessels in the Atlantic and North 
 Seas. Hungary may send cattle and barley for Bavarian 
 beer, but neither she nor Austria has wheat to spare. The 
 war chest of Germany is known to be full just now, but it is 
 said her war expenses are not less than twelve million pounds 
 a day spread over Europe, while her annual imports of food 
 and drink cost her one hundred and sixty-two million 
 pounds. 
 
 124 
 
Thursday, August 13th. 
 
 Quite warm and sunny. We took the eleven-fifteen 
 train for Maidenhead, arriving there at twelve. Mr. C. met 
 us in his motor and we drove through the town past the 
 Maidenhead thicket to his home. Woolley Hall is perfectly 
 delightful in every way imaginable. To this old house 
 owned for thirty years by a scientist, has been added all the 
 modern comforts and conveniences. Airiness and sunshine 
 abound and rooms and halls were filled with the garden 
 flowers. There were dozens of vases of roses, besides snap- 
 dragon, dahlias, larkspur, large jars of silvery gray leaf in 
 the hallway, plants of laurel which gave a delightfully cool 
 appearance, and most effective upon the hall table was a 
 gorgeous red gladiolus among a mass of green foliage. 
 
 The library, with its superb oak paneling, was bought 
 from a house four hundred years of age. Above its mantel 
 piece is a squirrel carved in oak, the emblem of the former 
 owner. 
 
 In this household each one is doing his share towards 
 helping the soldiers. The women are making gray flannel 
 shirts for the soldiers, and the only horse possessed by the 
 family has been requisitioned for the army. 
 
 After luncheon the men went off to the golf links and 
 we drove through the quaint little town of Henley to War- 
 grave. There we took one of the river boats and paddled 
 down the backwater. Under willow trees, curving in and 
 out continuously, it was deliciously cool, lazy and quite re- 
 mote from noise and commotion. It was only when we 
 found one occupant of a canoe with a newspaper upon which 
 we saw war headings in large type, that once more the situa- 
 
 125 
 
tion of the country — I feel almost like saying, our country — 
 dawns upon us with all its force. 
 
 The ride back to Woolley Hall was by a different road, 
 but equally attractive. We had tea, then walked through the 
 woody part of the grounds. There were firs and pines of 
 every variety, a Cedar of Lebanon quite as large as the one 
 we saw at Usse and said to be the second largest in England. 
 There were groups of the silver yew against backgrounds of 
 dark pines, blue spruces, larches and evergreens of every 
 variety, long lanes of yews, of cedar and box. I have never 
 before seen such a variety of lanes and each one with a beau- 
 tiful outlook. 
 
 The scientist made the most of his trees, but did not 
 think much of flower culture. The rose garden was done 
 since his days and was lovely in its bloom. There was be- 
 side the roses and violets, the prettiest border of high snap- 
 dragon edged with the English pansies. At the end of the 
 rose garden was the tea house, the upper verandah of which 
 looked down upon the tennis courts and croquet grounds. 
 
 We took the six-fifteen train back to the Paddington 
 Station and found the City bulletins full of German casual- 
 ties. The great armies are still facing each other on the 
 enormous line of battle extending from Liege to Belfort. A 
 force of six thousand Germans was routed by a similar force 
 of Belgians. News of this victory has called forth the 
 greatest enthusiasm along the Belgian front, the engagement 
 being called the Battle of Haelen ; it lasted all day yesterday 
 until seven-thirty and the ground was covered with dead and 
 wounded. The French, retiring before the terrible battle of 
 Muhlhausen, lost large numbers of men, while German 
 casualities are between two and three thousand. 
 
 126 
 
At present a state of war exists between England and 
 Austria, England's declaration following France's rupture 
 with Austria. Germany and Austria are now fighting 
 against six nations. The town of Pont-a-Mousson, near 
 Nancy was bombarded by Germans but little damage was 
 done. 
 
 Landen was occupied by the Germans, but retaken by 
 the French. The Russians so far have repulsed the Aus- 
 trians. In Cologne the church towers are fitted up as watch 
 towers to watch for aeroplanes. At night the city is plunged 
 into darkness except for the searchlights turned on every- 
 where. The inhabitants have a horror of the French airmen. 
 In loyal India, every ruling Chief has offered his financial 
 and military aid to England. 
 
 In battle the Germans crossed the river Velpe by narrow 
 bridges which meant narrow columns, giving the Belgians 
 a chance to rip up their columns so that the bridges were 
 filled with their dead. The Germans quite disregarded pre- 
 cautions, hoping to over-ride the Belgians by the weight of 
 their attack. 
 
 127 
 
Friday, August 14th. 
 
 Very warm. Shopped and saw some of the regulars 
 marching down Regent Street. Lunched at the Savoy and 
 looked over the American Room and the daily paper being 
 issued by the American Committee. 
 
 After luncheon we visited London's old fortress palace 
 and prison, the Tower of William the Conqueror. We 
 walked through the entrance to the Traitors' Gate, the Tower 
 of St. Thomas, built by Henry IV, adjoining it ; looked under 
 its arch at the river, now full of traffic and wondered what 
 sort of craft it was that carried to their doom the prisoners 
 of distinction such as Sir Thomas More, Queen Anne 
 Boleyn, Katherine Howard, the Princess Elizabeth, Lady 
 Jane Grey, James, duke of Monmouth, and others. It was 
 the custom to land them here after their trial at Westminster. 
 
 In the Wakefield Tower, we went into the jewel room 
 and were quite dazzled by the splendor before us. The Im- 
 perial State Crown worn last by Edward VII has only, 
 among its many other jewels, two thousand eight hundred 
 and eighteen diamonds and a remarkably large ruby, given 
 formerly to the Black Prince by Peter the Cruel. The other 
 crowns of King George and Queen Mary and those of 
 other kings and queens were gorgeous too. 
 
 Then there were the Salt Cellars. Hilda could not un- 
 derstand why they were so huge. The eleven St. George's 
 Salts were made for the Coronation banquet of Charles II 
 and used up to the time of George IV when this function was 
 held for the last time. At the top of the crown jewels case 
 is the Salt of State of silver gilt in form of a tower presented 
 to Charles II in commemoration of his restoration. 
 
 128 
 
We passed from there into the White Tower, the oldest 
 part of the fortress. The walls here are in some parts fifteen 
 inches in thickness. Its chapel of St. John is the largest and 
 most complete now remaining in any Norman Castle. 
 
 The Armory has a wonderful collection of armor and 
 weapons of every imaginable kind, both mediaeval and 
 modern. Especially interesting to us were suits of armor 
 and mail formerly worn by the old monarchs and famous 
 knights. There were several that belonged to Henry VIII, 
 and such pounds of steel as were worn by the horses and men ! 
 One suit that covered the horse of Henry VIII, which we 
 saw, was presented by the Emperor Maximilian. Two 
 young princes at the end of the room were wearing forty-two 
 pounds of armor. Hilda said she didn't see how war existed 
 in those days, for how could one ever be killed when so well 
 protected? 
 
 Another room was full of Indian weapons and a case 
 of small knives with lapis lazuli handles ornamented with 
 turquoise and jewels was the most interesting to me. 
 
 Outside in the open space before the Waterloo Barracks 
 new recruits were being drilled. Many of the men in their 
 every day suits have not yet received uniforms, but were 
 marching as if they had been at it for months. 
 
 The French troops are in possession of the Vosges 
 mountains after a series of fierce struggles for five days. At 
 Lothain a two days' engagement resulted in complete French 
 victory, the 21st German Dragoons being annihilated. Last 
 night at Diest, the Germans also met with a reverse. As yet 
 the enemy have not been able to take any of the Liege forts. 
 The latest rumor of the Goeben and Breslau is that they have 
 sailed through the Dardenelles and possibly may be bought 
 
 129 
 
by Turkey, by whose vessels they were escorted into the 
 Straits. The immediate repatriation of the German officers 
 and crews of these ships is demanded by the English Gov- 
 ernment. 
 
 130 
 
Saturday, August 15th. 
 
 Cloudy and cooler. In the morning made calls at the 
 Burlington just around the corner from Almond's. At noon 
 went to the British Museum. I was given a card of admis- 
 sion while Ed had to sign a card with his name and address, 
 making himself responsible for me, in case, the officials said, 
 I should try to burn the Museum. It was our first experience 
 with the precautions taken against suffragette outrages. I 
 asked how successful the suffragettes had been and the guard 
 said they had broken glass cases but were caught before do- 
 ing further damage. We went first to the Roman gallery and 
 saw the portrait heads of Julius Caesar, Tiberius, Nero and 
 the really beautiful head of the daughter of Mark Anthony. 
 In the basement was the room of casts. Many of the originals 
 we had seen in the Louvre and more to be found in Athens, 
 etc. In the Ephesus room, we saw the remains of the actual 
 temple of Diana, built about 330 B. C. and standing where 
 St. Paul was at Ephesus. 
 
 In the Egyptian galleries we went back to 3,000 years 
 before Christ. We saw the colossal head of Thutmosis III 
 of 1500 B. C, which takes up the entire end of the gallery; 
 Rameses II, etc., monuments covered with the birds and keys 
 and all the interesting symbols of those days. The black 
 Rosetta stone was interesting because from its three inscrip- 
 tions in the hieroglyphic, demotic and Greek, the discovery 
 of the hieroglyphic language of ancient Egypt was made. 
 The stone was found by the French near the Rosetta mouth 
 of the Nile in 1798, but passed into the hands of the English 
 in 1802. 
 
 In the Assyrian rooms we saw sculptures from palaces 
 at Ninevah 705-681, etc., but best of all in the room of Elgin 
 
 131 
 
marbles were the friezes from the Parthenon. Another 
 tourist kindly lent me Power's book which goes into detail 
 on this subject so I had a beautiful time following the "Pro- 
 cession of the Panathenaic Festival." I began with the men 
 dressing for the ride, the horses being harnessed, the im- 
 patience of the horses to be off, then the ride growing faster 
 with prancing horses hard to control. In one horse the veins 
 fairly stand out on his body, so alert is he for the race ; and 
 so on. Then come the chariots with beautiful procession of 
 maidens and youths with offerings, and most interesting to 
 compare was Phidias' frieze of Poseidon Apollo, Artemis 
 and Aphrodite against whose knee Eros leans. These di- 
 vinities are seated on stools, having no need of backs or arms 
 to rest upon, while next is the frieze of Hera and Zeus done 
 by another sculptor. The divinities are supported by a back 
 and lean toward a more human need of support and love of 
 ease, showing a vast difference between the conception of 
 Phidias and his fellow sculptor. 
 
 It was while I was still absorbed in Hera and Zeus that 
 my family appeared and announced that it was two-thirty 
 and they were starved, so I said good-bye to the Gods and 
 Goddesses and went off to the Monaco where their human 
 cravings were satisfied with chops and quite a hearty lunch- 
 eon. We spent the rest of the rainy afternoon indoors. 
 
 The Evening News reports that the French are moving 
 to the aid of the Belgians from Charleroi to Gembloux, north 
 of Namur and have completed the transport of troops into 
 Belgium. On Tuesday and Wednesday nights, forts on the 
 left bank of River Meuse, at Liege, were again attacked vio- 
 lently, but the holes made were promptly rilled with mat- 
 tresses. The French in crossing the battlefield at Ligny have 
 
 132 
 
passed the spot where, in 1815, Napoleon won his last victory 
 by defeating the Prussians. Behind the French armies are 
 large reserves of men totaling about a million. Through the 
 delay of the German attack, due to her repulse from Bel- 
 gium, the reserve divisions have had time to be drilled into 
 good shape. The pressure of Russia is being felt now as 
 she draws nearer the German frontier. Her cavalry raids 
 on German and Austrian railways are becoming more dar- 
 ing. 
 
 Reports from Belgium say that the Americans are be- 
 ing well treated, but every Englishman between the ages of 
 twenty-five and forty-five is being detained. Whenever a 
 non-combatant or an old man is known to have fired from 
 windows upon the Germans, the firing is returned by a 
 wholesale process of revenge, in which women and children 
 have suffered. 
 
 133 
 
Sunday, August 16th. 
 
 Bright, gorgeous day. Took the eleven o'clock train to 
 Maidenhead and from the Wilder Boat Company hired an 
 electric launch in which we started slowly up the river. Our 
 launch-man told us it had been the worst season he had 
 known in twenty years on account of the cold weather, but 
 in spite of war, the river was quite full of canoes, rowboats 
 and steam boats of every size and description, and all the 
 population for miles about seemed to have turned out to 
 enjoy the river; and it was enjoyable, every turn of it. The 
 trees on the right side going up were of all sorts, splendid 
 big ones, making a beautiful background for the long grasses 
 and loose-wort which grew on the edge of the water. The 
 houses on the river were mostly low and blended harmon- 
 iously into the river scenery. We passed beautiful Clieve- 
 den, the Astor home, situated amid rocks and hanging woods. 
 The house-boats were few and far between, only about half 
 a dozen of them, but wherever thev were, thev added to the 
 attractiveness of the Thames, with their boxes of geraniums 
 and greens. 
 
 After passing through two locks, we arrived at Cook- 
 ham, said to be one of the most picturesque villages of the 
 Thames. We stopped at the Ferry Hotel, supposedly three 
 hundred and fifty years old. We enjoyed the typical Eng- 
 lish luncheon of cold meat and cheese and listened to good 
 music played softly by a violin and harp, quite adding to the 
 charm of this quaint little inn. 
 
 Down the river again and past Maidenhead, through 
 another lock to Windsor where, from the river, we had a 
 splendid view of the castle. We stopped at five-thirty hoping 
 we might be in time for Vesper Services in St. George's 
 
 134 
 
Chapel, but were told that since a week ago, when some Ger- 
 mans had been caught trying to poison the water, visitors had 
 not been allowed to go within the Castle walls. Took a bus to 
 Slough, passing through Eton, and from Slough caught the 
 six-ten to London. Went to seven o'clock services at the 
 Belgrave Presbyterian Church and heard a Westminster 
 student preach. 
 
 Not a fort at Liege has yet fallen and the intervention 
 of the French Cavalry has had the result of keeping the Ger- 
 mans for eight days on the line of the Meuse so the French 
 have not been hindered in their mobilization. The death, 
 probably suicide, of General Von Emmich, commander of 
 the German forces, is confirmed and there is supposed to be 
 demoralization among the German troops at Liege and sev- 
 eral soldiers have drowned themselves in the Meuse. 
 
 In the south the French are still advancing on the 
 Vosges. They have entered the Saales region and occupy 
 that town. Russian victories on the Dniester are reported, 
 and two Austrian regiments annihilated. 
 
 Bombardment of Belgrade continues every night. A 
 force of four hundred thousand Austrians made an attack on 
 Servians and were able to cross the Save near Shabatz and 
 the Drina near Lobintza, but not the Danube. 
 
 Owing to general reprobation of the German Govern- 
 ment for demanding from Jules Cambon, the French Am- 
 bassador at Berlin, thirty-six hundred marks for his journey 
 to the frontier, the money has been returned to him. There 
 is a most remarkable instance of courage on the part of Cor- 
 poral Lupin. The Germans, having failed in a frontal at- 
 tack, their ranks were suddenly broken to allow artillery to 
 come up. Lupin exclaimed, "Leave them to me," and off 
 
 135 
 
he dashed to the left of the German battery and sheltered 
 behind a wall, he, at three hundred metres range took aim at 
 the battery, and with his Mauser brought down first the chief 
 officers, then under-officers and finally the gunners. Con- 
 fusion reigned among the Germans who, in desperation, di- 
 rected their last shell at the wall and made off, thinking a 
 whole platoon had got behind them. The shell was effective 
 and the wall collapsed, killing the hero. 
 
 The Poles have been promised Home Rule by the Grand 
 Duke Nicholas, commander-in-chief of the Russian Army, 
 in return for their loyalty. 
 
 The Brown, Shipley bank is a great center for Ameri- 
 cans just now and today I had a chance to see the New York 
 and Philadelphia papers for the first time. It seems that the 
 New York Exchange has closed on account of the unsettled 
 conditions due to the outbreak of war. Then there were 
 columns upon the subject of the "poor, destitute Americans 
 without trunks, food or money" which we read, comfortably 
 clothed and with money to spare, for our letter of credit in 
 this bank is as good as gold. 
 
 In the midst of the sensations of the European war, I 
 came with a shock to the announcement of the death of Mrs. 
 Wilson which took place on August 6th. Not having seen 
 a paper from the states, I had not heard of her illness, and 
 am overwhelmed at the thought of this personal sorrow, the 
 greatest of all sorrows, coming to our President when the 
 troubles of the nations have so increased his burden of cares 
 and responsibilities. What superhuman strength it will take 
 to go on with the burdens of today when his heart is torn 
 with this very great grief. The death of Mrs. Wilson is truly 
 a national loss, for she shared deeply the labors and great 
 works of her husband. 
 
 136 
 
Monday, August 17th. 
 
 Beautiful and sunny. I went with Hilda to the Cunard 
 office this morning and found it full of anxious people. On 
 account of a change in the sailing schedule, that is, the add- 
 ing of the Mauretania and Lusitania to the three already 
 booked to sail, all of London seemed to have turned out to 
 take their chances on these extra boats. There were four 
 friends from Cleveland who hoped for a chance on the 
 Mauretania as originally they had reservations upon her and 
 thought of course now that she was really sailing they were 
 safe, but the Cunard people seemed determined to hold 
 rigidly to their plan of arranging their passengers according 
 to original dates of sailings, and as these four were not due 
 to sail until later in August, they will probably have to be 
 content with Saxonia quarters. 
 
 We lunched with Ed at the Berkeley Hotel, then took a 
 taxi to the Zoo. There we saw a sight worth crossing the 
 ocean for, more children than I have ever seen since leaving 
 home, and accompanying each one seemed to be every uncle, 
 aunt, cousin and grandparent, beside fathers and mothers by 
 the score. They swarmed everywhere and the picture which 
 fascinated me was to see the families, uncles, aunts and all, 
 riding the camels, with the smallest child perched on the 
 neck. Hilda drove with half a dozen children in a llama 
 cart, and of course we bought tickets for our family to try 
 the camel sensation, but the waiting line was so long, we gave 
 up the idea of that treat for us and gave our tickets to a pair 
 of little sisters. In the lion house there was hardly walking 
 room, so many people had assembled to see the animals have 
 their supper. There were steps of stone, rows of them, upon 
 which the onlookers could sit. I do think the plans of the 
 
 137 
 
gardens show much thought for the comfort of the visitors; 
 the same seating arrangement is near the sea lions and they 
 were soon to be fed. 
 
 The bears have stone caves and slopes and plenty of 
 water and really looked more comfortable at home than any 
 zoo bears I have ever seen. Above the bears were the moun- 
 tain goats climbing up and down stone mountains. From 
 the top of our stone ascent, we looked down upon the ibis, 
 such graceful creatures, of a delicate pink and white color- 
 ing. 
 
 The monkey house was full of amusement, one playful 
 animal had entangled himself in a spool of thread and was 
 having a great time undoing his mischief. Another, as hu- 
 man to look at as any monkey could be, gazed at himself in 
 a mirror and was busy arranging his bang. 
 
 The grounds of the zoo were attractively planted, 
 flowers and shrubs grew beautifully and the lakes and ponds 
 seemed a happy and satisfactory place for the water animals. 
 We returned to the city feeling as if we had been part of a 
 real London holiday. 
 
 The News does not show progress on the German side. 
 The French have pushed their lines forward somewhat in 
 Alsace and Lorraine, having taken Thann about fourteen 
 miles from Muhlhausen. An engagement between French 
 and Austrian fleets took place in the Adriatic with the result 
 of sinking one Austrian ship, while the rest of the Austrians 
 were driven back into their own ports. Indications are that 
 Russian mobilization is growing more rapidly than antici- 
 pated and in addition to the army operating against Austria, 
 they have a force of eight hundred thousand ready to strike 
 Germany. 
 
 138 
 
AT THE LONDON ZOO 
 
Tuesday, August 18th. 
 
 Gorgeous day. Went early to the dressmaker's and at 
 eleven-fifteen, with Hilda, took the train for Marlow. We 
 changed at Bourne End, reaching Marlow at twelve-thirty. 
 Hilda with her book "Rambles on London" guided me 
 through the tiny town of Marlow down to the river where 
 we found the tow path which was to furnish our day's walk, 
 and it proved to be the best walk I have ever known, for it 
 was so pleasant to stroll miles upon sod and mostly by the 
 cool water side which turned and twisted and went through 
 locks occasionally, always lovely to look at. We saw more 
 flowers today than Sunday, forget-me-nots and much catnip 
 and other sweet smelling herbs. 
 
 Not far from the town of Marlow we passed Bisham 
 Abbey in Norman Tudor style, now a residence but formerly 
 a prison. Queen Elizabeth lived there for three years in the 
 reign of her sister. 
 
 It was a joy on these paths to have no automobiles to 
 watch out for. Cows were everywhere but did not mind us 
 any more than we did them. We passed through one pasture 
 of forty fine looking milk producers. No wonder our cream 
 in England is so delicious, with such pasturage. 
 
 We entered Henley, ending our nine-mile walk in time 
 to have tea and cake before taking the five-thirty-three train 
 home, Ed joining us at Maidenhead where he had spent the 
 day at golf. 
 
 The evening papers sounded full of new excitement and 
 we read them, learning that after nine days of complete 
 secrecy, the English Press is just beginning to disclose the 
 whereabouts of the English army. Such conservatism is al- 
 
 139 
 
most unprecedented in the history of any press and great 
 credit is given to the fine loyalty and management of the 
 British Press. Every day since we have been in England, 
 we knew that the English were quietly sending their troops 
 across the channel, but not a word of it was printed in the 
 English papers, while upon the continent her moves were 
 freely discussed. 
 
 News from Boulogne dated August 9th and just 
 printed today says, "The boats are arriving from New Haven 
 and within three days there will be ten thousand troops from 
 across the channel. A large contingent have been prepared 
 for on the great historic green where the column of Na- 
 poleon is erected. The fodder for the horses, water and pro- 
 visions are all in readiness." 
 
 Last Saturday, Sir John French reached Paris with 
 thousands of Parisians to welcome him. Flowers were 
 thrown at him and everywhere "Vive l' Angleterre" was 
 shouted. It must have been an inspiring sight. The Gen- 
 eral had a conference with President Poincare, after which 
 he left in a motor to rejoin his army. 
 
 From Belgium we learn the headquarters of the gov- 
 ernment have been transferred from Brussels to Antwerp. 
 At Gembloux a party of Uhlans fell into an ambush laid by 
 Belgian cyclists and several Uhlans were killed and 
 wounded. 
 
 Since yesterday the Germans have adopted a purely de- 
 fensive attitude, are entrenching themselves and moving with 
 caution. The French papers say they have pushed the Ger- 
 mans back from the Chambray to the Belfort line and hold 
 a firm footing in Alsace and Lorraine. 
 
 140 
 
SCENES ALONG THE THAMES 
 
The Brazilian Minister of Foreign Affairs has tele- 
 graphed from Rio de Janeiro instructing the Brazilian min- 
 istry in Berlin to ask for explanations regarding the brutal 
 attack upon Senor Bernardino Campo and his wife by Ger- 
 man soldiers, who are said to have battered and robbed them, 
 then cast them over the Swiss frontier. 
 
 Three regiments of the Austrians were cut up by the 
 Servians near Shabatz, August 16th and 17th which will 
 make it more difficult for Austria to resist the Russian ad- 
 vance upon her northern frontier. 
 
 141 
 
Wednesday, August 19th. 
 
 A lovely day to motor, the sun was bright and the air 
 deliciously fresh and cool. We had almost given up our 
 idea of automobiling in England with the war cloud hang- 
 ing over the country, but the government's plea to the tourists 
 is to carry out their original plans and help business along, 
 and we found so many motors with nothing to do, we have en- 
 gaged one for a two days' trip into the Shakespeare country. 
 We started in a Daimler, Ed, Hilda, Miss R. and I, in the 
 forenoon, and were soon leaving the city, across the Putney 
 Bridge through Putney Heath and Kingston. 
 
 In three quarters of an hour we had reached Hampton 
 Court and could not resist stopping to see the gardens, al- 
 though it was not the day to visit the Palace. Our entrance 
 was through the Lion's Gate erected by Queen Anne, then 
 into the loveliest combinations and varieties of flowers im- 
 aginable. There were gorgeous beds of the large bulbous 
 begonia, a delicate shade of pink, bordered with a gray foli- 
 age plant, then there were very tall pink verbenas with 
 equally high heliotropes, yellow snapdragon and lavendar 
 salvia and the most fragrant small white flowers which 
 seemed to belong to the gardenia family. 
 
 On the south side of the Palace we peeked through a 
 hole in the wall and saw the Dutch garden attractively laid 
 out in beds full of bright blossoms, looking the picture of 
 thrift and neatness. 
 
 The famous Hamburgh grape vine was in the conserva- 
 tory ; its history goes back to 1768 when it was planted by Sir 
 Lancelot Brown. The trunk is a wonder to see, thirty-eight 
 inches in circumference, the branches running from it, with 
 their delicious purple grapes fill the entire hot house. 
 
 142 
 
We went into only one of the fine old courts of the 
 Palace, the Fountain Court built by Wren. On its south 
 wall we could see the faintest signs of what were frescoes, 
 illustrating the Labours of Hercules. 
 
 Hampton Palace is the largest Royal Palace in Great 
 Britain, founded in 15 15 by Cardinal Wolsey, the favorite 
 of Henry VIII. It was presented by him to the King and 
 has been occupied by Cromwell, the Stuarts, William III and 
 the first two kings of Hanover. 
 
 In 1604 the Hampton Court Conference between the 
 Puritans and Episcopalians met here under James I as mod- 
 erator. Under Queen Anne the Palace was the scene of the 
 event celebrated in Pope's "Rape of the Lock." The present 
 apartments built by Sir Christopher Wren are now used by 
 aristocratic pensioners of the crown. We saw through the 
 open windows what seemed to be practice for first aid to the 
 wounded. Many nurses and apparently their pupils were 
 moving about among beds and surgical tables. It is quite 
 obvious that they are preparing to care for British soldiers. 
 
 From the gardens are wide avenues of horse chestnuts, 
 pines and cedars. We tried the intricacies of the Maze while 
 the guide stood at the top of some stone steps and when he 
 thought it necessary, directed us. It was fun to see his en- 
 thusiasm, and although our time should have been short at 
 Hampton, considering the length of our day's trip, each of 
 us had to mount the steps and have a bird's eye view of his 
 Chinese puzzle before he would let us out. 
 
 Outside of the gates once more, we had a glimpse of 
 Bushy Park and the splendid horse chestnuts and limes 
 planted by William III, and spied a few of the deer, so tame 
 that they welcome visitors. 
 
 143 
 
Through Windsor and Eton we drove, arriving at 
 "Skindles" in Maidenhead in time for luncheon; it was a 
 delicious collation of cold meats, a sweet and Devonshire 
 cream. 
 
 Through Oxford we drove slowly and saw what we 
 could of the outside of some of those splendid old college 
 buildings and churches. At Woodstock we stopped in front 
 of the gates of Blenheim Castle, the home of the Duke of 
 Marlborough. The inscription on the gate told us of the 
 monument, erected by his widow, of which we had a beauti- 
 ful view from the castle after our walk there. We passed 
 under the shade of huge oaks after reaching the house, and 
 at the entrance of the gardens stopped to play with real Blen- 
 heim spaniels, a whole family of them. 
 
 The gardens were full of bloom and very lovely. We 
 walked past them to the other side of the castle where we saw 
 magnificent Cedars of Lebanon and pines and spruces of 
 silver gray. In the distance lay the prettiest little lake. 
 
 In front of the castle we stood off for a view of its im- 
 posing Corinthian portico with projecting wings on either 
 side. It was built by Vanbrugh and given to the first Duke 
 of Marlborough in recognition of his numerous victories, 
 a sum having been voted by Parliament for the building of 
 the palace. Passed Rosamond's Bower, interesting to read- 
 ers of Scott's novel, "Woodstock," constructed by Henry II. 
 We followed the cows of Marlborough along the cool 
 stream, up a shady path to the gates and into our motor again. 
 
 We found the gate house in which Princess Elizabeth 
 was confined by her sister Mary, the home of Chaucer and 
 the house in which Edward, the Black Prince, son of Ed- 
 
 144 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON— The Five Gables and Shakespeare Hotel 
 
 STRATFORD-ON-AVON 
 
ward III was born. The town is full of quaint little houses 
 and seems to have for its industry, leather gloves. 
 
 From quaint houses we passed to unique signs. In one 
 small town was the "Inn of the Quiet Woman," not far from 
 this original shelter was a house advertising "Teas and well 
 aired beds." But Stratford was our destination and we 
 stopped for neither of these attractions. 
 
 Reaching the town of Stratford a little before six we had 
 just time for a walk before dinner. Through a street full of 
 half-timbered houses, we came to an entire row given up to 
 almshouses, looking so clean and well kept with pots of ger- 
 aniums in the windows. The entire town seems to breathe 
 the very atmosphere of Shakespeare and 1564. Every little 
 shop is filled with really attractive (not cheap and ordinary) 
 souvenirs of its poet, busts of him, volumes one inch in 
 length and width of every play, with remarkably good print, 
 and stories of his life in books of many sizes and bindings. 
 We saw the Harvard House of 1596, the home of Katherine 
 Rogers, mother of John Harvard. The sign above the door 
 tells us that the house was restored by Marie Corelli and 
 presented to Harvard in 1909. 
 
 Our Inn is filled with prints from Shakespeare's plays. 
 Each bed-room is named after one of the plays. Hilda and 
 Miss R. were put in Henry VTs room, while Ed and I 
 slept in the bed-room of Titus Andronicus under the picture 
 and verses from Act IV, Scene I : 
 
 Boy: "Help, Grandsire, help! My Aunt Lavinia fol- 
 lows me everywhere, I know not why. 
 Good Uncle Marcus, see how swift she comes I 
 Alas, sweet Aunt, I know not what you mean." 
 Marcus: "Stand by me, Lucius; do not fear thine 
 Aunt." 
 
 145 
 
In the evening we were fortunate in finding tickets for 
 "Much Ado About Nothing" and enjoyed every moment of 
 it. Miss Dorothy Greene and Mr. F. B. Benson were the 
 stars of a really splendid company. The English do know 
 how to do Shakespeare with real Shakespearean spirit. 
 Usually at this season there is not a room to be had in the inn 
 unless engaged long beforehand, nor, I imagine are tickets 
 available, but with England in this state of war, tourists are 
 not traveling as usual. 
 
 146 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON— Ann Hathaway's Cottage 
 
 STRATFORD-ON-AVON— Garden of Shakespeare's House 
 
Thursday, August 20th. 
 
 In the morning we walked to the house of Shakespeare 
 and never have I been more impressed with the genuine hon- 
 esty of the guides, both men and women. The desk, sup- 
 posed to be used by Shakespeare, we were told, could hardly 
 have been his, it was so large ; far more likely to have been 
 that of the school master. Chairs supposed to date back to 
 the life of Shakespeare could hardly have been quite so old, 
 etc., etc., but of the precious documents proving the scholar- 
 ship of the real William they were justly proud. When the 
 free schools of Stratford were given their charter in 1482 
 what doubt can be left in one's mind that Shakespeare took 
 every advantage of the school, and away with the Baconian 
 theory that claims the bard was wholly uneducated. 
 
 The original manuscripts were among the most inter- 
 esting relics of the Museum. The "Venus and Adonis," 
 second edition of 1594, is of splendid paper and print, also 
 the "Comedies and Tragedies" of 1623. The watch showing 
 how time had to be told until watches were made in 1597 
 was of great interest too. 
 
 Up-stairs we saw the Stratford Portrait of Shakespeare, 
 probably painted from a bust in the eighteenth century, and 
 there we met Miss Mary Rose. It was a pleasure to talk with 
 this very delightful woman, so loyal to her noted townsman, 
 and hard to tear ourselves away from her and the opportunity 
 to hear her enthusiastic tributes to him. She put into our 
 hands her Baconian Myths, "Notes on Two Great English- 
 men and Their Defamers," a paper she had just lately writ- 
 ten and read before the "defamers" in conclusion of which 
 she says, "May we not all venture to believe that the estima- 
 tion in which a man was held by life-long friends, daily fel- 
 
 147 
 
low-labourers and men of letters, who wrote appreciatively 
 of his great genius and immediately after his death, should 
 carry more weight than the theories of critics who did not 
 come into the world until more than two hundred years after 
 Shakespeare had left it." 
 
 We were also told by Miss Rose that our George Wash- 
 ington, the idol of all American school boys, was being shat- 
 tered and that the children of the next century would be con- 
 sidered uneducated if they believed in such a myth. 
 
 From the doorstep we looked out into the garden, a 
 lovely mass of bloom of the flowers mentioned in Shake- 
 speare's plays. 
 
 Before saying good-bye to the inn, we bought silk sweat- 
 ers for the family ; they are so beautifully made and far more 
 reasonable than those in the London shops. 
 
 Our drive through the town took us past the house of 
 Marie Corelli and to the church of the Holy Trinity, beauti- 
 fully situated among the trees on the bank of the Avon. We 
 walked up the entrance, made almost dark by the shade of its 
 beautiful trees and saw the cemetery on either side of us. We 
 had to content ourselves with an outside view of this church 
 and its picturesque tower of the twelfth century, for services 
 were being held inside and as that is where the tombs of 
 Shakespeare and Anne Hathaway are, we had to miss seeing 
 them. 
 
 Next, at Anne Hathaway's house, I found to my disap- 
 pointment the very attractive little woman who had shown 
 us about nineteen years ago, had died the year after we vis- 
 ited her. She was Mary Barker, a relative of Anne Hatha- 
 way. There were, however, two very nice English girls who 
 
 148 
 
took us through every corner of that dear little house, from 
 the bed-rooms with the old bed and quilt and rush mattresses, 
 into the scullery and kitchen with its splendid chimney and 
 bake oven, showing us with great pride the actual worn 
 bench, stiff and straight and obviously uncomfortable, where 
 our poet did his courting. 
 
 From the Shakespeare country we drove up the river 
 road to Warwick upon a hill rising from the river. It is a very 
 ancient town, having been occupied by the British before the 
 Romans. Two of its old gates, East and West, still remain, 
 We walked up a beautifully shaded avenue of trees, different 
 from most of the other approaches to chateaux and palaces, 
 for instead of being straight, it curved most attractively, 
 and we did not see the castle until we were almost upon it. 
 In entering beneath the ivy-covered portcullis, the guide 
 showed us the holes by which the defenders could pour down 
 hot lead or other scalding liquids. Behind this first defense 
 was a second defense through which the bullet balls flew. 
 Before we entered the castle, the guide pointed out Elfrida's 
 tower of 915 near the battlements, part of which was thrown 
 up by the Danes in those days. We were shown first into 
 the chapel of the XIV century, following such a large crowd 
 of tourists that we fairly filled the chapel, but I did have a 
 good view of a most interesting Flemish window of red and 
 yellow in which the table of the Last Supper is shown to be 
 round. At the end of the hall outside is a fine large picture 
 of Mrs. Siddons by Reynolds. In a large room at the end 
 of the hall is a beautiful Venetian mirror, a portrait of Henry 
 VIII by Franz Holbein, the younger; a "Boar Hunt" by 
 Rubens, also his "Four Evangelists." It was here that the 
 guide told us the castle was given to Sir Folk Grenville by 
 James II. In another room was a bay window full of vases 
 
 149 
 
and statuettes that belonged to Queen Anne. On the wall 
 hung unusual Brussels tapestries of Mediaeval gardens and 
 the room contained two fine cabinets of Boule work, of the 
 time of Louis XIV. 
 
 The cedar drawing room is a perfect gem, particularly 
 interesting as some of its decorating was done by local 
 artists. On one of its beautiful paneled walls hangs Van 
 Dyke's lovely "St. Croce," his "Charles I," his "Duke of 
 Buckingham," also a portrait of the Earl of Warwick. Our 
 attention was especially called to the portrait of Henrietta 
 Maria, wife of Charles I; the upper part was painted by 
 Van Dyke and the lower portion below the waist was finished 
 by Reynolds. Looking most carefully, we could see the 
 dividing line. 
 
 There was a fine alabaster vase, also a portrait of a 
 friend of Van Dyke's ; the friend had lost an arm, which loss 
 the artist did not wish to show, so he has most cleverly painted 
 over the missing portion a drapery of a gorgeous red. 
 
 Two Boule cabinets, one inlaid in brass, the other silver, 
 were also in this splendid room. 
 
 The Green Room had a magnificent table of lapis lazuli 
 and Carnelian under glass. A secret stairway used to lead 
 from this room to other parts. Lastly we came to the Baro- 
 nial Hall which is used by the family who, at present, are 
 renting the castle. There we saw whole suits of sixteenth 
 century armor, the actual piece worn by Lord Brooke who 
 was killed at Litchfield, the helmet of Cromwell, sword and 
 relics of the legendary Count of Warwick, the armor of 
 Bonny Prince Charlie, also a tiny one that belonged to the 
 son of Dudley of Leicester, who was crippled and called 
 the Imp. The oldest part of this room goes back to 1300. 
 
 150 
 
WARWICK— Caesar's Tower 
 
The roof is modern, having been reconstructed since its fire 
 of 1871. 
 
 Outside in the velvety grass court, we had a better 
 chance to see how completely within the walls we were. The 
 formidable towers, that of Caesar being one hundred and 
 fifty feet high, the long line of battlements and huge butt- 
 resses made us easily imagine, with this defense, the import- 
 ant and successful part played by the Parliamentarians dur- 
 ing the Civil War. 
 
 We had a peek at the Warwick vase found in Hadrian's 
 Villa at Tivoli, now protected by the shelter of a conserva- 
 tory. 
 
 It was only a short four miles to Kenilworth, along a 
 beautiful road past Guy's Cliffe and Blacklow Hill. We 
 forded a small ditch and were soon at its gate house. The 
 whole castle and grounds are so filled with Sir Walter Scott's 
 story that his description is most fitting: "At length the 
 princely castle appeared, upon improving which and the 
 domains around, the Earl of Leicester, it is said, expended 
 sixty thousand pounds sterling, a sum equal to one-half mil- 
 lion of our present money, etc., etc." "This great fortress in 
 Midlands" was visited by more Royalty than any other. 
 King John, while there, built Lunn's tower. When war 
 broke out between Henry III and the Barons, Kenilworth 
 was held by Henry Gifford for Simon de Montfort and after 
 his death in 1265, it was besieged by King Henry III. The 
 defenders, called Robber Knights, under Henry de Hast- 
 ings, held out for six months, until 1266, when, through star- 
 vation, they had to surrender. Later, Thomas, son of the 
 Earl of Lancaster, when he rebelled against his cousin, 
 King Edward II, was beheaded. The brother of the unfor- 
 
 151 
 
tunate Thomas made Edward II his prisoner and we saw the 
 tower in which this ill-fated king was imprisoned after hav- 
 ing signed his abdication to the crown. He was afterward 
 murdered at Berkley Castle. Also in the same tower — 
 Caesar's — Robert Bruce was kept and watched the fate of 
 the spider. 
 
 From the time of Henry IV it became a Royal residence 
 and so continued until the reign of Elizabeth who gave it 
 to her favorite Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. We saw 
 the remains of the wing in which her royal apartments were, 
 the Banquet Hall adjoining in Mervyn's Tower, in which 
 she was entertained at the rate of a thousand pounds a day. 
 Also a dressing room of Elizabeth's. It was in this room, 
 our guide told us, Leicester was asked to give an account of 
 himself for the lies he had told of Amy Robsart. 
 
 Steps to the right of the hall led us to the room in which 
 this lady lived. We passed by Mervyn's tower on the way 
 to the Tilt Yard, the name supposed to be taken from 
 some unhappy prisoner who languished there. Although 
 the room in its upper story was only fifteen feet in diameter, 
 the walls were of tremendous thickness. 
 
 The road to Leamington was our next route. Situated 
 on the Learn, this clean and well-kept town is renowned for 
 its sulphurous springs. I can imagine what a delightful 
 center for touring in England it must be. It was here we 
 lunched. A long afternoon's ride, uneventful, but full of 
 the charm of the English country, brought us to our London 
 hotel in time for a late dinner. 
 
 The news does not look encouraging. Brussels has 
 been left defenseless, and the next bulletins will undoubtedly 
 
 152 
 
M 
 
 •z 
 r 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 > 
 
 co 
 
 H 
 
say the Germans have entered, but after all, with the Belgians 
 only removed further north, the French coming from south 
 and west and the army of the Czar approaching, what else 
 could the Germans do? The Belgians have left an unforti- 
 fied city which they could not possibly have defended. 
 
 Pope Pius X died today. He has been seriously ill these 
 last weeks, and it is supposed that the distressing state of 
 Europe at war has hastened his death. 
 
 153 
 
Friday, August 21st. 
 
 Went to Savoy rooms in the morning. The transporta- 
 tion committee has done so well all the needy have accommo- 
 dations. No transports will be sent from the United States 
 to England, as tourists are so completely cared for that the 
 committee has dissolved. We have also had our first news 
 of our friend from Berlin, through Brown, Shipley. She 
 sent them a postal from Holland saying to forward her mail 
 to America, so she is one of the fortunate ones who was sent 
 to Holland by a special train. 
 
 Lunched at Cheshire Cheese, having our first taste of 
 their delicious pigeon pie. Afterwards, with Miss R., went 
 to the Wallace Collection at the head of Duke Street. It was 
 closing time, unfortunately, before we had seen more than 
 one room, but in that was the prize collections of pictures. 
 Such fine ones! Reynold's "Strawberry Girl," "Love me, 
 love my dog," Murillo's "Adoration of the Shepherds," a 
 Hobbema Landscape, a picturesque family group of Coques 
 and portraits by Lawrence and Romney. 
 
 We ended the afternoon with tea at Fuller's on Regent 
 Street. 
 
 The news is true — the Belgians are prepared to sur- 
 render Brussels to save further bloodshed, and the Mayor has 
 appealed to the citizens to remain calm at the inevitable entry 
 of the Germans. The allies wonder that the brave Belgians 
 did not withdraw ten days ago. If the Germans do enter the 
 capital now it will delay their march to Paris, the fundamen- 
 tal idea of their plan, while the Belgian army by falling back 
 upon Antwerp, obtains the support of a great fortress. Brus- 
 sels was of no strategic importance. Antwerp has an out- 
 
 154 
 
ward ring of fifteen armored forts and an inner ring of 
 eleven forts. Unlike Liege, it is surrounded by a continuous 
 chain of works, so that if the assailant should penetrate be- 
 tween the forts he cannot enter the town. Altogether if any 
 fortress is impregnable, it is that of Antwerp. The Belgian 
 supplies can come by sea, so food is assured. 
 
 In Lorraine, the French are making slow headway, as 
 they are confronted by a strong German force, strongly en- 
 trenched. Their front runs from Delme through Mohange 
 to the Vosges and the commanding height of the Donon. In 
 Alsace, the Germans have retaken the village of Luneville, of 
 not much importance, but once more the French have driven 
 the Germans out of Muhlhausen, the greatest manufactur- 
 ing city of the province. Two important factors are coming 
 more and more into play each day, economic pressure ex- 
 erted by the British fleets' blockade of Germany's coast and 
 military pressure by advance of Russia's armies from the 
 east. Russians have reached Gumbinnen, a town of fifteen 
 thousand in eastern Prussia, after three days' fighting, also 
 proceeding against Bukovina, an Austrian province. The 
 Servians have had a victory at Shabatz and Servians and 
 Montenegrins are invading Bosnia. 
 
 Antwerp now becomes a base of operations from which 
 the Belgian Army can threaten the flank of Germans pene- 
 trating into Belgium, while the Germans will either have to 
 lay siege to Antwerp — a formidable operation, or to cover 
 themselves against the Belgian Army, detaching a force for 
 this purpose which must seriously weaken their offensive 
 strength against the allied army to the south. 
 
 155 
 
Saturday, August 22nd. 
 
 Went out only for a short time in the afternoon. 
 Through some narrow little streets near St. James, we found 
 the London Museum and there spent a most interesting 
 hour, going over the history of England which is arranged 
 in such chronological order, that from the days of the Paleo- 
 lithic and Neolithic man, Romans, Danes, Saxons and Nor- 
 mans, the rulers in perfect line take us to the present kings. 
 After having seen the pictures of what the supposed stone 
 men must have been, the implements they cut, we saw how 
 England looked at its Glacier period, also the bones of the 
 mammoth cave lion and wooly rhinoceros. Then room 
 after room of kings and queens, their charters and acts. We 
 saw the wooden cradle of Henry IV, the model of two full 
 rigged ships which James II used in reconstructing the navy. 
 One room had a cabinet full of most exquisite designs of 
 precious stones which were found in a casket only nineteen 
 months ago somewhere in this city, I could not quite make 
 out from the guide just where, as he was more interested in 
 just what my country is going to do in this international war. 
 I told him we had done our best for the Cubans in the Span- 
 ish-American War and had had our hands full of Mexican 
 troubles, but that did not satisfy the Britisher, so I turned 
 him over to Ed and absorbed myself in the Court costume 
 room. I saw Queen Alexandra's and King Edward's coro- 
 nation robes, also the Queen's going-away gown and the 
 robes of Queen Mary and King George. 
 
 The Evening Standard says the Germans will not oc- 
 cupy Brussels but simply march through the town. 
 
 Services were held this afternoon at St. Columbia 
 (Church of Scot) for Lieutenant-General Sir James Geier- 
 son, who died on his way to join the French. 
 
 156 
 
London Times dated Friday reports French troops have 
 advanced into Lorraine along the whole front from Donon. 
 The advance guard entered Delme, Dieuze and Morhange 
 yesterday, then fell back upon the main body, for the French 
 troops, having fought six days uninterruptedly, found the 
 superiority of the enemy such that they could have kept Lor- 
 raine only at the price of more loss of life. 
 
 General Pau's advance against Muhlhausen was clever- 
 ly managed. Once master of Thann and Dieuze, by a 
 bold movement, he brought his troops to the west of Muhl- 
 hausen leaving the enemy free to manoeuvre between the 
 French lines and the Swiss frontier. Then by a second ef- 
 fort, the Germans were thrown back on Muhlhausen. At 
 the same time French advanced on Altkirch, the left advanc- 
 ing in the direction of Colmar and Neu Brisach, threaten- 
 ing the enemy's line of retreat. The Germans were then 
 obliged to give battle which was very hot. At Dornach, a 
 suburb of Muhlhausen, the German losses were enormous, 
 then while a part of the Army was occupied at Muhlhausen, 
 the rest returned to Altkirch and forced the Germans to re- 
 turn to the Rhine, which they crossed in great disorder. The 
 French thus obtained their original object and it is explained 
 in this edition why after their success of August eighth they 
 had to retire. Their hearty reception on that evening made 
 them forget they were in a hostile country, and it seems that 
 the Alsatians, who were busy feting the soldiers, were Ger- 
 man soldiers who were busy supplying the Germans in the 
 rear with exact information regarding the numbers of the 
 French. They then delivered a night attack from two points 
 and the French, not caring to risk having their retreat cut 
 off, retired. 
 
 The Servians have driven the Austrians from Matschwa 
 back again towards the bridge over the Drina, enormous 
 
 157 
 
booty reported for Austrians. Austrians have been reported 
 to have tried arming the Albanians for an attack on the 
 Servian flank, but they will have to watch out for Italy, who 
 will not endure Austrian interference in Albania. The Aus- 
 trian fleet has had quite a panic ; for six hours they fired nobly 
 and well at an enemy supposed to be advancing under cover 
 of darkness and at the end of the time no enemy was found 
 to exist. 
 
 A reporter tells of his motor trip from Brussels to Ghent 
 and the fugitives carrying their household goods he saw en- 
 route. An Abbe from Louvain told him of the panic of that 
 city. The Germans entered Louvain at nine o'clock Wednes- 
 day morning and when the Abbe left, a few hours later, 
 many houses were in flames. 
 
 Before leaving Brussels, the Belgian authorities blew 
 up the installation for wireless telegraph at Laeken, in order 
 to prevent the Germans from utilizing it. 
 
 At Ghent, he saw Major Gilson, the hero of the des- 
 perate encounter at Aerschot, between a small body of Bel- 
 gians and advancing Germans. Of three hundred men 
 under this Major, only seven escaped without injury and he, 
 himself, continued to encourage his soldiers after his nose 
 had been shattered by a bullet. 
 
 At Ostend, the town was found to be over-run with fugi- 
 tives. 
 
 No reply to Japan's ultimatum to Germany to evacuate 
 Tsing-tao, naval port of Kiauchau, has been received, so 
 Japan is making preparations to bombard. 
 
 On August 20th the Germans entered the Belgian capi- 
 tal after two o'clock without a shot being fired ; they found 
 the civic guard disbanded and order being maintained by 
 
 158 
 
simply ordinary police. At eleven, it was reported that an 
 officer with a troop of Huzzars, bearing white flags, had 
 halted outside the Louvain gate. The Burgomaster, M. 
 Max, with his four sheriffs, was conducted to the German 
 authorities. He started to explain the rights under war regu- 
 lating the treatment of an unfortified capital, when he was 
 roughly asked if he was prepared to surrender the city un- 
 conditionally, otherwise it would be bombarded ; also he was 
 told to remove his scarf of office. He did so and after brief 
 discussion it was given back to him and he was told he would 
 be held responsible for any act on the part of the populace 
 against Germany. 
 
 All morning the Belgians waited anxiously until two 
 o'clock when the booming of cannon and music began the 
 triumphal march, a scouting party of the Uhlans first, beside 
 horse, foot, artillery and sappers, a procession of one hun- 
 dred motor cars in which were mounted quick firers. rt Die 
 Wacht am Rhein" and "Deutschland uber Alles" were 
 sung by these legions of the man who has broken the peace 
 of Europe. Among the cavalry were the famous Bruns- 
 wick Death's Head Huzzars, all in gray instead of the bril- 
 liant cherry color they formerly wore, guns and carriages 
 were all gray. The force which marches through the city 
 is estimated at from thirty-five to forty thousand, and behind 
 them, probably a hundred and fifty thousand. Evidently 
 they are enroute for Maubeuge, and a big battle must be 
 pending. 
 
 Eight million is the indemnity exacted from Brussels. 
 
 The German reply to the Japanese ultimatum not yet 
 received, but of the Jap students, a large number are leaving 
 Berlin. The German Government was given until tomor- 
 row to reply to Japan's demand that they leave Kiauchau. 
 
 159 
 
Sunday, August 23rd. 
 
 At Westminster Chapel heard Dr. Campbell Morgan 
 in a beautiful sermon on the widow's mite. He quoted the 
 little English girl who had sent the Prince of Wales fourteen 
 pence half penny for his fund with a note saying how glad 
 she was to be a British girl but how sorry she felt for the poor 
 little German children. In the afternoon we rode in Hyde 
 Park and heard a band play a combination of "Rule Brit- 
 tania,' , the "Russian Hymn" and the "Marsellaise" and an 
 unfamiliar part of their medley must have been Belgium's 
 patriotic song. I wonder what the hurdy-gurdy men have 
 done with their "Watch On the Rhine" which used to be 
 such a favorite; we never hear a note of it now, but every 
 evening the "Marsellaise" is played beneath our window. 
 
 It seems quite certain the fifty thousand German troops 
 who provided Brussels with its imposing spectacle on Thurs- 
 day evening were the fresh troops who, for the last fifteen 
 days have been forming behind the fighting screen and now 
 intend to hurl themselves directly at France through the gap 
 between Mons and Charleroi. 
 
 160 
 
GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL 
 
Monday, August 24th. 
 
 In the afternoon I went with Hilda to Westminster and 
 we looked over some of the tombs she had read of in the 
 stories told in such an interesting manner by Mrs. Frewen 
 Lord. The story of the blind Postmaster General interested 
 Hilda especially. Henry Fawcett was shooting with his 
 father at the age of twenty-five, when the father accidentally 
 hit his son instead of the bird, in the eye. From that moment 
 he never saw again ; from that moment also, he made up his 
 mind he would do everything within his power to comfort 
 his father and not to be a disappointed helpless man. Full 
 of ambition to become a member of Parliament, he worked 
 and studied until he obtained his membership, and later he 
 was made Postmaster General. 
 
 Sir John Franklin was a sailor and a great Arctic ex- 
 plorer, who went nearer to the North Pole than any man had 
 ever been before. He died on this third expedition and was 
 buried in the far-away cold, but his wife has put up a monu- 
 ment to him, which we saw in the Abbey. His epitaph by 
 Tennyson is one of the most beautiful in the Abbey : 
 
 "Not here! the white north has thy bones, 
 And thou, Heroic sailor-soul 
 Art passing on thine happier voyage now 
 Toward no earthly pole." 
 
 Then there was David Livingstone, the great mission- 
 ary, who treated black men as his brothers, cared for them, 
 doctored them and finally gave up his life to them. When 
 he was buried in the Abbey, among the many white faces 
 mourning for him were two of the faithful blacks who had 
 traveled these many miles to be near their great friend. 
 
 161 
 
The story of Sir James Outram and Sir Henry Have- 
 lock, who relieved their besieged people at Lucknow were 
 among these heroes, also Lord Lawrence, called the Savior 
 of India, "Chinese Gordon," Lord Shaftesbury, the friend 
 and protector of little children, Isaac Newton and many, 
 many others. 
 
 The south transept of the Abbey is, of course, full of 
 interest as it is full of the poets, all our favorites from Geof- 
 frey Chaucer of 1400 to Tennyson of our century. 
 
 We ended our afternoon at Westminster by a walk in 
 the beautiful cloisters and the Chapter House. 
 
 On the way back to Almond's I went into a stationery 
 shop to buy postal cards of the Royal family and the Eng- 
 lishmen of most importance having to do with the war. The 
 cards are sold in packages to help increase the Prince of 
 Wales' Fund. In this store I found sets of lead soldiers, 
 which I promptly bought to take home to Ted. There were 
 the English in the khaki, French, Belgians and Russians, 
 but not a sign of a German soldier for them to fight. I told 
 the clerk how incomplete my war game would be without 
 them and she answered, "But we would not be allowed to sell 
 German soldiers, would we?" 
 
 Dispatches show that the first and second British Army 
 Corps were stationed in and about Mons and after the fight- 
 ing which was heavy, the casualties, as far as are known, 
 were two thousand. In the Battle of Waterloo, 18 15, the 
 British losses were six thousand, nine hundred and thirty- 
 two. The British Cruiser Gloucester chased the Goeben 
 and Breslau among the Ionian Islands for two days and two 
 nights, after they had run from Messina. She carried away 
 half of the Breslau's funnel and put her aft gun out of action, 
 
 162 
 
then escaped with only two boats on her davits being 
 smashed. 
 
 The atrocities of the Germans we hoped were much ex- 
 aggerated. From a message of a commandant now wounded 
 at Antwerp, it seems that not the grossest excesses have been 
 overdrawn. Not only have the Germans sought the protec- 
 tion of the red flag and then fired from its shelter again and 
 again, and have fired from behind a white flag in the same 
 manner, not only have they shot down their prisoners and 
 non-combatants, who have tried to protect their towns, 
 pushed women and children in front of their ranks for pro- 
 tection, but in the little towns of Orsmael and Velme, they 
 burned houses, barns and haystacks, destroyed furniture, 
 looted money, hanged an old man, took two peasants from 
 their farms, bound and shot them under the eyes of the wives 
 and children. In Aerschot, where not a shot from the town 
 was fired nor the least resistance made, the inhabitants were 
 told to come out of their houses and march two hundred 
 yards from the town. There without more ado, they shot 
 M. Thielmans, the Burgomaster and his fifteen-year-old son, 
 the clerk of the judicial board and ten prominent citizens 
 and set fire to the town. 
 
 In large towns like Brussels, these outrages have not 
 been witnessed, the probable reason being that if the people 
 in the small villages and country-side could be thoroughly 
 terrorized, it would make it unnecessary to leave troops in 
 occupation of smaller places. 
 
 163 
 
Wednesday, August 26th. 
 
 Shopped at Carter's Seed Store and Liberty's in the 
 morning and finished the day in packing. 
 
 The Times in speaking of the Russian advance says that 
 their regiments have reached Marienburg on the Vistula, 
 that the Germans retreated from Gumbinnen by forced 
 marches, part of their forces assembling at Konigsberg. In 
 Galicia the Austrians tried to prevent the Russians from 
 crossing the Sereba but after a series of encounters, did not 
 succeed. 
 
 In Lorraine the right wing of the French forces have 
 fallen back between Luneville and Nancy, but in Alsace 
 the French have succeeded in repelling attacks against Col- 
 mar. 
 
 Zeppelins passed over Antwerp yesterday, dropping 
 eight bombs, killing and wounding about fifteen people and 
 damaging buildings. 
 
 The Nizhui Huzzars, the famous swordsmen, are doing 
 remarkable work for the Allies ; one of their squadrons cut 
 down seventy Germans with a loss of only four men on their 
 part. 
 
 Battle of Charleroi from the Times, August 26th : Fairly 
 big town, population twenty-five thousand, situated on 
 Sambre, about twenty-three miles from Mons. Of great 
 strategic importance on account of its canal connection with 
 Brussels, also stands at the junction of many railroads. On 
 the evening of August 18th, the French troops of all arms 
 began pouring into the city. Many of the inhabitants started 
 in trains to leave the city, the rest were told to keep indoors. 
 
 164 
 
n 
 
 x 
 
 PI 
 
 GO 
 
 H 
 
 Q 
 
The canal bridges were fortified with the French mitrail- 
 leuses (quick firing guns like the British Maxim) ; also they 
 were installed upon the roof of the station. An adventurous 
 party of Death's Head Huzzars, under the leadership of a 
 young lieutenant, calmly cantered down the streets of the 
 town and were taken for English cavalry and cheered. They 
 paid dearly for their recklessness for when the mistake was 
 known, fifteen of their number were killed. 
 
 Wednesday morning at seven, the commencement of the 
 fiercest battle which has probably ever taken place began 
 with a German shell crashing through the roof of the rail- 
 way station. That started the bombardment of the upper 
 town. French troops made a sortie, but finding the enemy 
 in much greater force than expected, were forced to with- 
 draw and the bombardment continued relentlessly. The 
 Turcos, true to their reputation, with a bravery which must 
 live in history, actually charged the German battery, bayo- 
 netting the gunners. Their losses, it is feared, were greater 
 than those of the Light Brigade at Balaclava ; from the bat- 
 talion only one hundred returned unscathed. Their bravery 
 proved powerless against the German advance which crept 
 foot by foot to the heart of the city ; there the Times reporter 
 says the carnage was indescribable, the roads became 
 so jammed with the dead that the killed remained standing 
 upright resting upon dead brothers. 
 
 For two hours Germans fought for the bridge over the 
 canal and after heavy loss, they captured it, then gained 
 ground all along the line, capturing three other suburban 
 villages. Later in the day the French turned their hail of 
 artillery upon the lower portion of town, making a counter 
 attack and under fire of their artillery, the infantry advanced 
 slowly in the face of stubborn resistance of the city they had 
 
 365 
 
evacuated, actually retaking some of the surrounding coun- 
 try they had lost. At six o'clock in the evening the fighting 
 ended with both sides completely worn out. 
 
 Next morning before dawn the French artillery again 
 bombarded Charleroi, indefatigable troops swarmed down 
 the slope towards lower town, retaking five villages. The 
 French found a good vantage ground for their mitrailleuses, 
 placing them upon slag heaps — Charleroi being a mining 
 district. The Germans placed theirs upon steeples, every 
 one in town, but in the face of a withering fire from above 
 and below, the French advanced, and after furious fighting, 
 drove the Germans across the Sambre. 
 
 166 
 
Thursday, August 27th. 
 
 Left Almond's with real regret, we have been so com- 
 fortable there. Mr. Brankeene, our Italian landlord, when 
 I said good-bye to him, told me that he had received orders 
 to be ready to serve his country if necessary, for border pro- 
 tection. We passed by the Chelsea Barracks and saw sol- 
 diers there, soldiers marching on the street, and in fact, 
 everywhere we see the Khaki. 
 
 Through Putney and Kingston and Cobham, then a 
 lovely stretch of wooded road intermingling with masses of 
 English heather; through the town of Guildford, whose 
 shopping district is on a hill. 
 
 Godalming was most quaint and interesting on account 
 of its chartered school, moved from London here in 1872, 
 and having had the honour of educating Thackeray. We 
 caught a glimpse of this school quite a distance from our 
 main road. Also the library has the original manuscript of 
 The Newcomes. 
 
 Hindhead, a hollow called by Dickens in Nicholas 
 Nickleby, "Devil's Hollow," was our next town and gave 
 us a glorious view of hills and farms, and in its vicinity lived 
 Conan Doyle and Bernard Shaw. 
 
 More stretches of evergreens and firs, then into Peters- 
 field to see the Abbey Church built by William III in 1230. 
 It was quite characteristic of Norman architecture and its 
 yard was used, front and sides, for a cemetery. On one side, 
 most curiously, grave stones were placed stiffly together in 
 a row, making a sort of wall which hardly added to the 
 beauty of the cemetery. 
 
 167 
 
Upon entering Winchester we saw the familiar Alfred 
 the Great in stone and through Norman gates of stone, which 
 adds so much to the beauty of this little town. At the "God 
 Begot" Inn, supposed to be the most quaint in England, we 
 lunched. Then to the University of Wykeham founded five 
 hundred years ago by William of Wykeham, a school which 
 has always held to its old traditions. The number of students 
 in the dormitories is only seventy, because the original num- 
 ber was seventy, so although the seat of learning has grown 
 to two hundred and fifteen, the seventy who can sleep within 
 its walls are chosen by competitive examination. On the 
 gateway to the outer court are carved statues of Wykeham, 
 the Virgin Mary and Gabriel with his horn. In that court 
 all students walk bareheaded until they become praeceptors. 
 Their place for washing at the pump is called Moab, and at 
 Edom the shoes are blackened. The students eat off of 
 wooden trenches, sitting on oak benches before the elm tables 
 of five hundred years ago. 
 
 On a lawn of beautiful grass, modern games are played, 
 but twice a year a walk to the top of St. Katherine's Hill is 
 taken by the boys and the roll called there to commemorate 
 the walk taken for necessary exercise daily in bygone times. 
 The Chapel, of Perpendicular architecture, and the Cloisters 
 are fine and upon the walls of the latter are tablets in memory 
 of students. One from the Latin translation mentions the 
 boy who went to heaven instead of to Oxford. Then there is 
 the preparation room where the students sit in high-backed 
 wooden seats. Also, their much prized trusty servant, a 
 fresco of a creature with a snout for a mouth, padlocked so it 
 would not speak evil, donkey ears which would refrain from 
 hearing evil, and legs of the deer to run swiftly. 
 
 Nearby, through a gateway, we saw the picturesque 
 
 168 
 
r*z\ ?:§■ ■•. 
 
 ,\ y..V-.- S'jS*^ 
 
 ': 1, ^ :> #f; i '. ■ i 
 
 WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL 
 
castle of Wolvesey, then passed an unpretentious yellow 
 stone front which proved to be the dwelling in which Jane 
 Austen spent her last days. 
 
 The Cathedral is so complete in all its different styles of 
 Norman, and Perpendicular Gothic, and never have I seen 
 an altar screen more exquisite than that of this carved one. 
 On top of the side screens to the choir were curious old 
 mortuary chests containing probably bones of Saxon Kings 
 before date of William the Conqueror, Canute, Egbert, etc. 
 We saw brass tablets marking the place where Jane Austen 
 was laid away — sweet peas had been placed there lately. 
 
 In the Great Hall, the only remains of William the Con- 
 queror's castle, we went only for a few moments to see on 
 the wall the actual Round Table of King Arthur and hear 
 the proofs of his champion, the present guide. He told us 
 if such authorities as Henry III, John Harding, Henry V, 
 also Marlowe and Sir William Portel mention it, why doubt 
 its existence? In fact in 1487, Henry VII restored its twelve 
 legs, central support and all. It was formerly at Tintagel 
 and brought from there to Camelot which is now Win- 
 chester. 
 
 Through Winterbourne we saw the prettiest of all 
 thatched houses, it seemed to me, for in this southern coun- 
 try they appear to grow more and more picturesque. In 
 Amesbury we caught a glimpse of a fine old Abbey Church 
 among huge trees. It was at Amesbury that Gay wrote his 
 "Beggars' Opera." But to go back to the lives of the Druids 
 at Stonehenge was one of the most interesting hours of our 
 day. Only ten miles from Salisbury we found the ruins of 
 their old temples, saw their sacrificial stone and did not, at 
 all, enjoy thinking of the lives of innocent babies probably 
 used as offerings. About it was a flock of sheep now pas- 
 tured, peacefully enjoying their grass in the security of 
 
 169 
 
knowing no sacrificial stone awaits them. The Sun Stone 
 was this year visited by a throng of Sun worshipers from 
 India, but where and how could those Druids have carried 
 their stones, such quantities of it? The keeper of Stonehenge 
 told us it was a stone called Sarson which geologists have 
 proved must have been brought all the way from Brittany. 
 
 We arrived in Salisbury at sun-down and stopped at the 
 County Hotel. Salisbury is full of soldiers; Ed was almost 
 the only man in civilian clothes at dinner. 
 
 The evening News says the English are becoming in- 
 dignant over the secrecy of the British Press; as more troops 
 are being sent across the channel daily and casualties are 
 becoming greater, they feel they have a right to know some- 
 thing of their countrymen ; also they maintain lack of such 
 news will tend to hinder rather than help in the call of Lord 
 Kitchener for more volunteers. The atmosphere seems 
 heavy with depression at the practical fall of Namur. Two 
 of its forts are in the hands of the enemy but six are main- 
 taining a stout resistance. In spite of the most elaborate 
 preparations at Namur, barbed wire entanglements charged 
 with fifteen hundred volts of electricity and broken glass, the 
 Germans held the city at eight o'clock Tuesday night. 
 
 The Belgians, as has been the case right through the 
 campaign, evacuated the town in order; all rolling stock and 
 motor cars were removed and, as usual, the stationmaster 
 left on the last locomotive with the cash box under his arm, 
 thus three thousand passed under the protection of French 
 lines and the protection of the cavalry screen. 
 
 Requiem celebrated for the late Pope at Westminster 
 Cathedral this morning. It is known that forty-four Cardi- 
 nals have arrived for the conclave and when the balloting 
 commences next Tuesday morning, sixty will be present. 
 
 170 
 
..,^* 
 
 SALISBURY CATHEDRAL 
 
Friday, August 28th. 
 
 Gorgeous day. Walked to the Cathedral only five min- 
 utes from our hotel. Through the Close gate into a most 
 lovely expanse of velvet grass, and from this lawn we had 
 our first view of this fine example of pure early English 
 architecture of 1220 and its lofty tower and spire — the high- 
 est in England. The morning sun lit up the tower and 
 eastern sides of double transepts. Services were being held 
 so we could only step inside the door and look down the long 
 nave, most impressive with its splendid columns adorned 
 with dark Purbeck marble, but so cold compared to every 
 other cathedral I have seen, probably from its lack of stained 
 glass windows, screens, monuments and chapels which 
 Wyatt did away with at the close of last century. 
 
 It seemed a shame not to see the choir nor lady chapel, 
 for I know they are beautiful, but we had planned Bath for 
 luncheon, so on we went. The drive was through quaint 
 little towns again, that of Warminster seeming to have the 
 most attractive cottages. Here we lunched at the Pulteney 
 Hotel, very nice, then went into the Pump room and down 
 into the remains of the old Roman Baths, supposed to have 
 been founded by the Emperor Claudius. The baths in those 
 days were as large and elaborate as possible and in the origi- 
 nal hall, one hundred and ten feet long and sixty-eight feet 
 wide is the large rectangular bath, partly roofed in by the 
 Roman Terrace and there we saw parts of the ancient pipes 
 and conduits. The bottom of the large bath is still filled with 
 water as if quite ready to be used. The boiling spring bub- 
 bles up, making its steam vapor all about and the present 
 Pump Room makes daily use of it. Beneath the Terrace is a 
 regular museum of the heads, busts and figures of all kinds 
 which show the sculpture of those days. 
 
 171 
 
The front of the Abbey Church with its ladders of climb- 
 ing pilgrims interested us so we stepped inside and looked 
 over some of the old monuments of its nave ; we were more 
 than ever interested to find a monument to William Bingham, 
 United States Senator, who died in 1804. The Church is 
 known as the Lantern of England from the number and size 
 of its windows. The men and women climbing up the ladder 
 of the facade have suffered badly from weather and time. 
 They have lost legs, arms and heads, but still climb upward. 
 
 Our drive southward took us over the Cotswold Hills 
 and landed us in Gloucester, on the Severn, at four-thirty. 
 Passed by the corner of four main streets, the ground plan 
 of Roman settlement. The Intercession Services which are 
 being held all over the country on Fridays, were going on 
 in the Cathedral so we had a chance to sit, with a good view 
 of the nave and its Norman arches, and listen to the beautiful 
 music, after which a guide took us through the choir and 
 transepts. The latter are particularly interesting as the col- 
 umns and arches show us the earliest approach to the Per- 
 pendicular style engrafted upon the Norman framework, 
 and quite unique are the curious flying arches which sup- 
 port the tower. The choir too is a magnificent example of 
 the pure Perpendicular and forms a kind of perpendicular 
 cage inside the original Norman frame. 
 
 The east window of the Cathedral is the largest in Eng- 
 land, stained glass of the fourteenth century. The tomb of 
 Edward II is a conspicuous spot in the choir and since it was 
 first brought to the Cathedral, has been visited by many pil- 
 grims. We saw at Kenilworth the tower in which the un- 
 fortunate King was imprisoned before he was murdered at 
 Berkeley Castle, also the tomb of Robert, duke of Normandy, 
 son of the Conqueror. The cloisters are said to have no rival 
 in England and I don't wonder; the fan vaulted roof is so 
 
 172 
 
exquisite, but the walks are quite closed in instead of opening 
 upon the grass court which, for me, detracts a little from 
 their beauty. Outside we noticed the picturesque Deanery 
 with its timber back dating from the twelfth or thirteenth 
 centuries and within the Close a monument to Bishop 
 Hooper, who was executed as a martyr on that spot. 
 
 Another castle was in store for us and though it was six 
 o'clock when we reached Chepstow, it seemed too fine an old 
 ruin to pass by. From its gates we climbed up a hill before 
 reaching its main part and came upon the most remarkable 
 walnut tree I have ever seen, its branches extending from 
 one wing of the castle to the other. Strong props supported 
 these large and heavy branches and it was quite evident every 
 care was given to preserve the tree. We climbed the steps as 
 high as the remaining ruins would let us, and from their 
 height saw the Wye with its banks, which are muddy at low 
 tide, and the hilly surrounding country. The Castle is of 
 the thirteenth century and its ruins are far more extensive 
 than those of Kenilworth, being surpassed by no other in 
 Great Britain, unless it be Conway. It has four courts. 
 Jeremy Taylor was confined here in 1685 in one of the 
 towers. 
 
 From the little town of Chepstow we went through the 
 lovely valley of the Wye until at eight o'clock we arrived at 
 Tintern and were shown our rooms for the night in the 
 quaintest little Inn of winding halls and stairways — the Beau- 
 fort Arms. Part of it is two hundred years old but it is de- 
 lightfully clean and comfortable and very much away from 
 the world. We went to bed by candle light and heard only 
 that there had probably been a sea fight with disaster to the 
 Germans, and that troops from India were arriving upon 
 the continent. 
 
 173 
 
Saturday, August 29th. 
 
 Tintern Abbey. On the loveliest of mornings we saw 
 the ruins of the Abbey, its walls covered with ivy, pictur- 
 esquely placed in the midst of a green meadow on the bank 
 of the Wye. The building dates back to 1131, founded by 
 the Cistercian monks, and of its ruins enough remains to 
 show what a fine piece of decorative Gothic it was. 
 
 Following the Wye in its lower valley, we passed 
 through Monmouth where the Wye meets the Monnow, and 
 there was a glimpse of Monmouth Castle reputed to be the 
 birthplace of Henry V, the Prince Hal of Shakespeare. 
 
 Crossing the river Monnow, we saw an interesting gate- 
 way of the thirteenth century adjoining a Norman Chapel. 
 Upon a hill we came to Ross, overlooking the Wye, with its 
 picturesque perpendicular church, the spire easily seen from 
 the distance. In this church is the tomb of John Hyrle, 
 whom Pope has immortalized in his Man of Ross. 
 
 Then came Hereford, a town full of old buildings and 
 the castle of Wilton. It is an Episcopal city whose See dates 
 from the seventh century. Its castle was built to hold the 
 Welsh in check and although once the largest in England, 
 only a few ruins now remain to tell the tale. 
 
 Ludlow was our next ancient town, and here among 
 its fine old wooden houses, we stopped for luncheon at the 
 Three Feathers, an Inn of quaintness quite corresponding 
 to the other old houses of its time. Ludlow, we found to be 
 at the confluence of two rivers, the Teme and Corve. It 
 used to be the seat of the Lords President of Wales, and 
 their castle built in the twelfth century is a mass of fine ruins. 
 
 174 
 
CHEPSTOW CASTLE 
 
Here it was that Milton wrote his Comus, to celebrate the 
 appointment of the Earl of Bridgewater to office of Lord 
 Marcher. 
 
 Our route took us through Broomfield and Stokesay, 
 the seat of another castle of the thirteenth century; in fact 
 castles are becoming an hourly occurrence for us. Then 
 through Craven Arms, Church Stretton, with its quaint 
 market hall and built on a hill, into Shrewsbury with the 
 Severn river on three sides of it. Full of narrow, steep streets, 
 this town was overflowing with British soldiers, busy with 
 their provision wagons. Formerly it was an important posi- 
 tion on the Welsh march, now its importance as a military 
 center is quite apparent. A few of its walls remain and there 
 is a castle built in the days of William the Conqueror. 
 
 We took the Welsh road from this point and were soon 
 in a land of more castles and beautiful hills, these buildings 
 having been necessary as defenses against the legions of the 
 Kings of England. 
 
 We reached the end of our day's trip at Llangollen, pro- 
 nounced with "th," and on the bank of the Dee. At the Hotel 
 Hand we spent the night. In the evening we walked into the 
 attractive little tea garden on a slope of the bank of the river, 
 with the falls near by. We found friends from home here 
 and visited with them during the evening. 
 
 175 
 
Sunday, August 30th. 
 
 Overcast. In the morning we had a view up a hill eight 
 hundred feet above and north of the town of the celebrated 
 castle Dinas Bran, called Crow Castle, of such an age that 
 the boldest historian has not dared hazard a guess at its 
 origin. The character of the trenches shows them to be much 
 older than the present ruins, probably the Castle was a 
 stronghold of the early Britons when they first resisted the 
 Romans. Then there is the Bridge of Llangollen of 1345, 
 one of the sights of Wales. 
 
 Through the vale of Llangollen the hillsides were cov- 
 ered with woods and varied river scenery. We came to Cor- 
 wen, an old-fashioned little town noted as the place where 
 Owen Glendower assembled his forces before the battle of 
 Shrewsbury and made a magnificent fight with his sturdy 
 Welshmen to free his country from the foreigner's yoke. 
 
 The Dee took us into Bala, on a lake of the same name ; 
 one of the three largest natural lakes in Wales, with gently 
 sloping moorlands, craggy headlands and a few trees. The 
 cleanliness and industry of this town was quite apparent. It 
 was a center in last century's non-conformist revival and still 
 holds large Methodist meetings in its Calvinistic Methodist 
 training college. 
 
 Our way to Dolgelley took us through narrow curving 
 roads, lined with beautiful trees and giving a glimpse of 
 Snowdonian hills in the distance. We could see Cardigan 
 Bay reaching out to the Atlantic and the Mawddach flowing 
 into the bay near Barmouth. Ruskin says in his Modern 
 Painters that the Mawddach estuary as seen near Barmouth 
 affords one of the three finest prospects in all Europe. The 
 
 176 
 
H 
 
 M 
 
 > 
 
 W 
 M 
 
town has the rare combination of having not only all the 
 seaside advantages, but the mountainous scenery close by. 
 On its cliffs, houses of stone climb up all along from the 
 water side. 
 
 From this sea resort we went along the shore until strik- 
 ing inland, we came to Harlech and saw before us the for- 
 midable Harlech castle, high-perched, foursquared and 
 round-towered; the scene of some of the sternest sieges of 
 English history. It was during the War of the Roses that 
 the "March of the Men of Harlech" was written. Seventy 
 miles farther on is Portmadoc. 
 
 Out of Harlech we caught our first view of the distant 
 Snowdon, the Punchbowl and its lesser mountain peaks. 
 We reached the little town of Portmadoc just as the rain be- 
 gan and fortunately three miles more brought us to the gates 
 of Aberdunnant where Hilda had visited five weeks ago. I 
 don't wonder she loved it! Through a woody entrance be- 
 side a brook our way curved almost half a mile to the house, 
 and there was the home I had heard so much of ; low roofed, 
 rambling, three hundred years old and, best of all to Hilda's 
 mind, haunted ! She has even heard the ghost knock at her 
 door, which adds so much to the charm and mystery of the 
 place. 
 
 It was delightful to visit these hospitable friends who 
 had rented Aberdunnant for the summer, to explore the cor- 
 ners of that ancient house where not only the ghosts but bats 
 occasionally wander in and out in the evenings. 
 
 We had the pleasure of meeting an interesting Welsh 
 family, from whom we learned that two of the brothers had 
 answered the call to arms, the older going to Holyrood where 
 the Irish troops were being received and forwarded, and the 
 
 177 
 
younger to one of the larger transportation camps, leaving 
 a family. They had prepared for trouble during the sum- 
 mer, having had orders to be ready for Ireland in case of a 
 revolution between Ulster and the Home Rule Party. Out 
 of the small town of Portmadoc about a hundred men have 
 already gone. The two horses of the Aberdunnant household 
 have been sold for requisition, leaving only a little pony for 
 riding and driving. 
 
 178 
 
Mm-* 
 
 m & 
 
 
 f as ttiM i « soi^S^S ^ *- 
 
 " Hi * PI i l^k? r £L 
 
 ^ i ^uijff PWf??*'** ^ * ^^^ 
 
 
 l>'.,o' : ' 
 
 LUDLOW— The Feathers Inn 
 
Monday, August 31st. 
 
 The next morning the sun shone brightly and gave us 
 a chance to see a little of the garden in beautiful August 
 bloom, and I carried away a bunch of sweet lavendar in 
 memory of this. We also took with us one of our hostesses, 
 Hilda's friend. 
 
 The road to Begdellert is along the side of the Welsh 
 mountains with the glorious Snowdon still in view makes a 
 never-to-be-forgotten ride. This little Welsh mountain vil- 
 lage lies among the rugged peaks and is well protected on the 
 north by the King of Mountains, Snowdon ; and the reputa- 
 tion of the Royal Goat Hotel and its genial proprietor is far 
 famed. 
 
 Passing more lakes and streams, we came into Capel 
 Curig, at the junction of three valleys of unpronouncable 
 names. Bettws-y-Coed, our next village, was the culmina- 
 tion of Welsh rocks, streams and glens with every attractive 
 feature of landscape one can conceive of. 
 
 After crossing a bridge over the river Conway, the lion 
 of all Castles came into view, the town of Conway. The 
 castle with its rugged mountain background looked as if it 
 were well able to withstand its fierce sieges. Built by Ed- 
 ward I in 1284, the castle played an important part in the 
 Civil War, but was later surrendered to the Parliamentary 
 forces. Conway has also a Tudor house with feudal gate- 
 ways, Plas Mawr, which should not be forgotten. 
 
 Another glorious ride through woodland, rocks and 
 glade and we plunged once more toward the Atlantic and 
 came to Llandudno, the most fashionable of Welsh watering 
 places. Through Rhuddlan and past more castles, we came 
 
 179 
 
to Holywell, named for the sacred well of St. Winifred. The 
 well was supposed to have risen from the spot where the head 
 of the Saint fell to the ground, cut off by a Pagan Prince 
 whose advances she had rejected. Catholic pilgrims still 
 visit here. 
 
 Our last Welsh town was Hawarden, noted for its 
 Castle, the home of the Right Hon. Gladstone. Within the 
 picturesque park are the ruins of another old castle, from 
 the top of which one can have a good view of the river Dee. 
 We lunched opposite the castle, at Glynne Arms, where we 
 had a rather slim repast after our long morning drive. 
 
 From Hawarden it was only six miles to Chester, the 
 old Roman town, on the right of the river Dee, surely the 
 most mediaeval looking town in all of England. On three 
 sides of the city are parts of the Roman walls upon which 
 one can walk and have a good view of the town. Then there 
 are the Rows, arcade-like rows of shops found in four of the 
 main streets and in the best specimens of old timber-built 
 houses imaginable. 
 
 Arrived in Liverpool, the city of docks, at the Midland 
 Adelphi in time for dinner, having completed one hundred 
 and eight miles today. 
 
 180 
 
THE SWALLOW FALLS— Bettws-v-Coed 
 
 CONWAY CASTLE AND BRIDGE 
 
Thursday, September 3rd. 
 
 On board S. S. Laconia. For three days we have been 
 on the ocean, each mile taking us nearer home and further 
 from the European war scene. Thanks to Mr. Marconi, we 
 have had news from the fighting line; without it I fear we 
 would have been a restless boat full of passengers, so accus- 
 tomed were we to daily reports. 
 
 The Laconia is taxed to its utmost and is carrying alto- 
 gether about two thousand souls. At first there were three 
 dining hours for the first cabin, and how those stewards man- 
 aged with their hungry passengers is a mystery to me, and 
 yet they did manage cheerfully and well and their efforts to 
 satisfy the crowd should never be forgotten. Today they 
 have tried the plan of putting some of the tables in the hall, 
 and by crowding a little more in the dining-room, we have 
 been able to do away with the third dining hour. 
 
 Yesterday we made the stop at Queenstown and the 
 women with their Irish lace came on board as usual; they 
 seem to have been cordially received and I hope their earn- 
 ings will be a real help in these troublous times. 
 
 * 
 
 The Cork papers sold as quickly as hot cakes and we 
 read of the success of the Allies, their line from Belgium 
 down to Verdun, being quite intact, while in the Vosges and 
 in Lorraine they are gradually advancing. A German bi- 
 plane dropped a few bombs at Port St. Martin, but no dam- 
 age resulted. 
 
 There was real excitement yesterday afternoon at five- 
 thirty when, as we were just leaving the Irish Coast, a Cruiser 
 appeared and began to signal us. She carried no flag as far 
 
 181 
 
as we could see and although every pair of glasses was im- 
 mediately focussed upon her, we could make out nothing of 
 her nationality nor purpose. At six o'clock the Laconia 
 came to a full stop for a few minutes while our Captain held 
 a signal conversation with the other boat. Every man, 
 woman, child and steward assembled on the starboard side 
 of our boat and there they stood quite tense and silent until 
 the Laconia was again under way. Then the surmises broke 
 loose, was the Cruiser a German, did she want our coal or 
 us, or was it one of the British Navy, instructing our officers 
 as to the course we should take? Apparently it was the lat- 
 ter for we kept on pointing steadily westward. 
 
 Our portholes are blanketed at night, and the rule of 
 leaving no lights burning in our staterooms is strictly en- 
 forced, nor are there any lights on deck. A notice even asks 
 the men to refrain from striking matches for their 
 cigars while on deck. The Laconia is gray from top to bot- 
 tom, and I am most thankful in the fog of last night and to- 
 day the fog horns are allowed and have blown lustily. It is 
 not wholly pleasant to think of what might be the fate of a 
 gray steamer running in the thickness of a gray fog and I 
 understand on the trip over from America, the Captain was 
 not allowed to use the horn. 
 
 The knowledge that we have on board a passenger who 
 lost her daughter in the burning of Louvain casts a gloom 
 over the entire ship and makes one furious with anger at the 
 thought of such an outrage. 
 
 Today's wireless says that the French Government has 
 been transferred to Bordeaux, the reason being that Paris is 
 becoming the pivot of operations of both armies. The Ger- 
 man army is advancing upon Paris and is now only forty 
 
 182 
 
a 
 a 
 o 
 
 r 
 
 H 
 > 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 o 
 2 
 
miles off. English families have arrived at Ghent, having 
 been expelled from Brussels under the terms of the new Ger- 
 man decree. 
 
 In East Prussia, the Russians are investing Konigsberg, 
 and in Austria they have routed four Austrian army corps 
 near Lemberg. 
 
 Lord Kitchener's second one hundred thousand men is 
 well beyond the half-way mark and Cardinal Delia Rhiese 
 has been elected Pope with the title of Benedict XV. 
 
 188 
 
Sunday, September 6th. 
 
 The fog has been with us again, but cleared and we had 
 a really beautiful sunset. 
 
 The most eventful part of the days has been the wireless 
 bulletins and it was with great relief that we read of the Ger- 
 mans' march on Paris being checked and her position enor- 
 mously weakened ; in fact the report is that the German cen- 
 ter is retiring towards the left. 
 
 Lemberg in Galicia has been taken by the Russian 
 Army, and the Russians have captured seventy thousand 
 prisoners, guns, artillery and food supplies. 
 
 Long before ten-thirty this morning the lounge was 
 filled with passengers, stewards and stewardesses. Our or- 
 chestra of four stringed instruments, whose men worked un- 
 tiringly to give us the music that the larger orchestra ordi- 
 narily furnished, was there and played Elger's "Land of 
 Home and Glory." 
 
 Then came the sermon, the story of Naman, the Leper, 
 beautifully preached by an Episcopal clergyman, after we 
 all sang: 
 
 "O, God of love, O King of peace, 
 Make wars throughout the world to cease; 
 The wrath of sinful man restrain, 
 Give peace, O God, give peace again!" 
 
 The day's fog this evening disappeared, and the sun 
 shone through and set in a burst of loveliness. Meanwhile 
 we are hardly eight hundred miles from the Boston Lights 
 and fast approaching the Land of the Free, and let us hope 
 forever more, a land of security and peace. 
 
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