^^^r}. 
 
 ^yB'^ %^«r^\c/ X'^ 
 
 > 
 
 t . o '^ ^^ '^ * O N ' -O,^ d 
 
^0 
 

 VIII, 
 
THE 
 
 OREGON TERRITORY, 
 
 BRITISH NORTH AMERICAN FUR TRADE. 
 
 WITH Ax\ ACCOUNT OF THE HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE 
 
 PRINCIPAL NATIVE TRIBES ON THE NORTHERN 
 
 CONTINENT. 
 
 BY JOHN DUNN, 
 
 LATE OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY; EIGHT YEARS A 
 RESIDENT IN THE COUNTRY. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 G. B. ZIEBER & CO. 
 
 1845. 
 

 S 
 
 
 C. SHEUMAN, PRINTEil 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 .HALL not encumber the reader with a tedious detail 
 of my motives in publishing- this work ; or of its scheme 
 and plan. This is a kind of egotism, and currying favour 
 with the reader, already carried to g-reat excess. But I 
 shall state a few facts — due to myself to give, and to the 
 reader to know. 
 
 Having been articled to the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 I left my father's home in London, in their ship, the 
 Ganymede, for their settlements on the Pacific. It is 
 needless for me to give any account of our outward 
 voyage (though I met with some strange adventures) to 
 the Sandwich Islands — at which we stopped for a short 
 time ; and thence to the Columbia river. Having arrived 
 at the western head-quarters of the Company — Fort Van- 
 couver ; on the northern shore of the river, ninety miles 
 from its mouth — I was placed in the fort, in the situ- 
 ation of assistant storekeeper. After remaining in the 
 fort nearly a year, I was commissioned to proceed north- 
 ward, in the Company's ships, on trading and exploring 
 expeditions ; threading, in our various courses, the whole 
 of the vast labyrinth of gulfs, sounds, straits, bays, and 
 inlets, that interlace the whole of the Pacific shore, for 
 many hundred miles inland, and along many degrees of 
 latitude. Here I was in the character of trader and in- 
 terpreter ; and assisted at the erection of several forts in 
 various parts of the country, never before occupied. I 
 then returned to the Columbia ; and was placed, for some 
 time, in charge of Fort George, near the mouth of the 
 river — now an outpost attached to Vancouver — the famous 
 1* 
 
Astoria, so n?uch vaunted of by the Americans, as their 
 settlement ; from which they once threatened, to use 
 Washington Irving-'s phrase, to "sweep the Pacific;" and 
 spread their internal trade througfh the Canadas, and the 
 Polar Circles ; and banish the Britishers as traders, if 
 not as residents, from the whole northern continent — a 
 boastful threat, which they have signally failed to execute. 
 They made, however, every endeavour to realize this 
 most ardent wish of their hearts, but have been com- 
 pletely foiled. In place of being the expellers, they are 
 themselves, in a great measure, the expelled — the result 
 of their own irregular mode of dealing, and cupidity ; 
 which have roused against them the distrust, indignation, 
 and hatred of the natives. 
 
 Having spent eight years in the Company's service, I 
 was induced, by my father, who had otiier projects in 
 store for me, to return home. 
 
 On my return, although I was, from my knowledge of 
 those Americans that traded on the coast, or had squatted 
 in the southwestern part of Oregon, or have lately been 
 employed by the Company as trappers, prepared to hear 
 any monstrous assumptions of right set forth by the 
 American populace, through their loco foco organs of the 
 press, I did not expect tliat tl}e respectable portion of the 
 press — much less that their functionaries, and ministers of 
 state, even up to the president — would echo the opinions 
 of the rabble that controls the legislature. But to my 
 surprise, I found that the subject was viewed by them 
 through the democratic spectacles. 
 
 At the opening of Congress, in 1843, the President, 
 without any previous provocation to the declaration ; but 
 from the desire, if not the necessity, too characteristic of 
 American presidents and governments, of pandering to 
 the passions and feelings of the multitude from whom 
 they derive their periodical being — volunteered the an- 
 nouncement to the whole world, that the whole territory 
 is American, and that American it will be preserved and 
 
maintained. But this is not merely the averment of the 
 President ; but the whole current of a most vehement 
 debate runs in support of this fraudulent assertion of a 
 claim. Says the President : — 
 
 " The territory of tlie United States, commonly called 
 the Orcg-on territory, lying on the Pacific Ocean, north of 
 the 42d degree of latitude, to a portion of which Great 
 Britain lays claim, begins to attract the attention of our 
 fellow-citizens ; and the tide of population which has re- 
 claimed what was lately an unbroken wilderness in more 
 contiguous regions, is preparing to flow over those vast 
 districts which stretch from the Rocky Mountains to the 
 Pacific Ocean." 
 
 I published, in The Times, and other leading periodi- 
 cals, on the appearance of this document, an exposition 
 of the true facts of the case. My statement became the 
 subject of many articles ; and the British people awoke 
 to a true knowledge of their interests, which the Ameri- 
 cans v/ished to wrest from them. I showed, that up to 
 1814, they never claimed more than the right of joint 
 occupancy — that after tlie Florida treaty, they took a 
 bolder tone, and claimed exclusive right — that in 1827, 
 they never ventured to claim beyond the 49th degree. 
 But now they take a bolder tone still ; and, on the gambling 
 principle of " all or nothing," claim up to the Russian 
 frontier. 
 
 As there was no work lately published by an English- 
 man descriptive of the country, and the relative position 
 of parties : and as the books already published hy flying 
 American travellers, who had picked up their accounts 
 piecemeal, in difi:erent parts, are strongly tinged by pre- 
 judice ; I imagined that a true and dispassionate account 
 of the whole country would tend to place the question on 
 its proper basis. I thought then — and this thought v/as 
 strengthened by some judicious friends, who had seen 
 the several statements that I published, and had examined 
 my rough log-book — that if I had given a fair and dis- 
 
passionate view of the Oregon territory ; and of the 
 relative position, and social pretensions of the contending 
 parties ; the British public, being awakened to the sub- 
 ject, would be enabled to come to a sound judgment on 
 the whole question. 
 
 Though I have not given the whole amount of my 
 notes, I am persuaded that this book will convey a fairer, 
 and more concentrated impression, than all the American 
 factious books that have been hitherto published on the 
 subject. 
 
 It is true that this book occasionally portrays some 
 dark features in the American character ; but let the 
 reader clearly observe, that in depicting the American 
 character, I quote American authority ; and that in show- 
 ing the weakness of their pretensions to the country, I 
 quote historical and diplomatical facts — facts not ques- 
 tionable by the Americans themselves. 
 
 In brief, and in simple truth, my object is to give the 
 British public an honest, and, as to loading character- 
 istics, a full, account of the Oregon country. I had ano- 
 ther object in view, which was, to give an account of the 
 British North American Fur Trade — of which there has 
 been no consecutive account hitherto given. 
 
THE 
 
 OREGON TERRITORY, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 BRITISH NORTH AMERICAN FUR TRADE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Discovery of North America by the English — Importance o{ 
 the fur trade — French Canadian fur traders — Coureurs des 
 Bois, or Rangers of the Woods. 
 
 The discovery of America by Columbus, and the great 
 acquisitions resulting from it to Spain, soon av^^oke a spirit 
 of adventure in England : and an expedition was fitted 
 out from Bristol under the command of Cabot, a merchant 
 there, under the patronage of Henry VII., in 1497. This 
 expedition discovered Newfoundland, and sailed along the 
 continent from the coast of Labrador to that of Virginia. 
 Thus England was the second nation that visited the 
 New World ; and the nation, the extent and importance 
 of whose possessions have ever been only second to those 
 of any other state — Spain, formerly, and the Republic of 
 America at present. Her possessions she has always 
 2 
 
14 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 made every effort to maintain ; and there never was a 
 time when she was more imperatively called on to main- 
 tain her territories and her commerce in that continent 
 than she is now. 
 
 The discoveries of Cabot opened the way for other 
 adventurers during the next century. The French, under 
 Cartier, penetrated as far as the island of Montreal, and, 
 in 1608, founded a colony in that district. In two years 
 after (1610), the Enghsh explored Hudson's Bay. Both 
 nations soon found that in the cold and repulsive forests 
 and plains of the north there was a source of wealth, if 
 not as immediately attractive as the g-old and silver fur- 
 nished to the Spaniards in the genial regions of the south, 
 yet as enduring and valuable as an article of commerce 
 — the peltries of its wild animals. This incentive caused 
 the wildest and remotest regions to be explored, and the 
 greatest difficulties and dangers to be braved and sur- 
 mounted ; and has carried in its course more civilization 
 and social improvement than ever followed the track of 
 those adventurers after the wealth of Mexico and Peru. 
 
 It was the fur trade which, in fact, gave early suste- 
 nance and vitality to the great Canadian provinces. The 
 adventurers who had settled on the banks of the St. 
 Lawrence, soon found that in the rich peltries of the 
 interior they had sources of wealth that might almost 
 rival the mines of Mexico and Peru. The Indians, as 
 yet unacquainted with the artificial value given to some 
 descriptions of furs in civilized life, brought quantities of 
 the most precious kinds, and bartered them away for 
 European trinkets and cheap commodities. Immense 
 profits were thus made by the early traders, and the 
 traffic was pursued with avidity. The pursuit of this 
 traffic produced a more extensive knowledge of the 
 country — drew the Indians from their recesses to the 
 haunts of civilized life — and rendered Montreal the centre 
 of an extensive trade. Hordes of Indians would come 
 down at stated periods, in a squadron of light canoes, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 15 
 
 laden with beaver skins, and other spoils of their year's 
 hunting' — unload their canoes — draw them on shore — 
 form an encampment outside the town — dispose their 
 goods in order, and open a kind of fair with all the grave 
 ceremonial so dear to the Indians. An audience would 
 be demanded of the Governor-g-eneral : he would respond 
 to the application, and hold the conference with becoming 
 state, seated in an elbow chair ; whilst the Indians were 
 ranged in semicircles before him, seated on the ground, 
 and silently smoking their pipes. Speeches would be 
 made, — presents exchanged, and the audience would 
 break up in general good-humour. 
 
 Then the work of traffic would commence with great 
 activity ; and all Montreal would be alive with naked 
 Indians, running from shop to shop, bartering their com- 
 modities for arms, knives, axes, kettles, blankets, and va- 
 rious other articles of use or fancy ; on all of which the 
 merchants realized enormous profits, as there was no 
 money used in this early traffic ; every transaction being 
 conducted by barter in kind. 
 
 Their wants and caprices being supplied, they would 
 take leave of the Governor — strike their tents — launch 
 their canoes, and ply their way back to the interior. 
 The supply procured from these periodical visits of the 
 natives to Montreal was, it must be recollected, indepen- 
 dent of the purchases made by Canadian adventurers in 
 their visits througli tlie interior, 
 
 A new and anomalous class of men gradually grew out 
 of this primitive state of the trade. These were called 
 Coureurs des bois, or Rangers of the woods, being originally 
 men who had accompanied the natives in their hunting 
 expeditions, and made themselves acquainted with remote 
 tracts, and tribes, and who now became, as it were, ped- 
 lars of the wilderness. These men would set out from 
 Montreal, well stocked with goods suited to the Indian 
 tastes and wants, and with arms and ammunition for self, 
 defence, or for slaying wild animals for sustenance ; and 
 
J 6 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 would make their way up the mazy and wandering rivers 
 that interlace the vast forests and wastes of the Canadas, 
 coasting the most remote lakes ; and by the attraction of 
 their imported goods, creating new wants and habitudes 
 among the Indians ; and thus spurring them to renewed 
 exertions in the chase, to procure more furs and other 
 commodities. Sometimes these men would sojourn for 
 months among the natives, assimilating to their tastes 
 and habits with the facility of Frenchmen — adopting in 
 some degree the Indian dress and mode of life, and not 
 unfrequently taking to themselves Indian wives. After 
 a lapse of many months, sometimes a year or more, they 
 would return loaded with merchandise, and then, after 
 disposing of their stock, commence a career of reckless 
 revelry and extravagance ; which not unfrequently ended 
 in their ruin. Those who were able to hold out till the 
 next season, were forced upon a new voyage for subsis- 
 tence. Many of tliese Coureurs des hois became so ac- 
 customed to the Indian mode of living, and the perfect 
 freedom of the wilderness, that they lost all relish for 
 civilization, and identified themselves with the savages 
 among whom they dwelt ; or could be distinguished from 
 them only by their superior licentiousness, and by their 
 bolder disregard for all law, order, and morality. Their 
 conduct and example gradually corrupted the natives, 
 and impeded the labours of the Catholic missionaries, 
 who were at this time prosecuting their pious work in 
 the wilds of Canada, with diligence and fervour. 
 
 To check these abuses, and to protect the fur trade 
 from various irregularities produced by these loose ad- 
 venturers, an order was issued by the French government, 
 prohibiting all persons, on pain of death, from trading in 
 the interior of the country without a license ; and the 
 use of spirituous liquors, if not abolished, was much re- 
 stricted. 
 
 Though this system checked for a time the licentious, 
 ness of these " wood rangers," it did not eventually abo- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 17 
 
 lish it; for by degrees, according- as the privileg-e of 
 licensing- became extended or relaxed, much of the abuses 
 of the old system was revived and continued in another 
 form. The merchants holding tlic license frequently em- 
 ployed the " Coureurs des bois" to undertake the long- 
 voyages at a small per ccntagc, which was sufficient to 
 whet their cupidity, and urge them to fraud and cxactidn 
 in their dealings with the Indians. At last it was found 
 necessary to establish fortified posts for the protection of 
 the trade, and the restraint of these «' rang-ers of the 
 woods." The most important of these was at the Strait 
 of Michilemackinac, which connects lakes Huron and 
 Michigan. This was a depot for the merchandise, and a 
 rendezvous for the traders. It is unnecessary to pursue 
 further a picture of the French-Canadian traders; but I 
 may sum up by saying, that the French-Canadian mer- 
 chant, in those primitive days of Canada, was at his 
 trading-post a kind of commercial patriarch, surrounded 
 with his Indian wives and children, and a numerous train 
 of dependants living in a rude indulgence. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Hudson's Bay Company — Its incorporation, and its privileges. 
 
 Tins company was incorporated in perpetuity by Royal 
 Charter, granted a. d. 1670, in the twenty-second year of 
 the reign of Charles II. Tlie C'harter was granted after 
 much consideration of the national and commercial ad- 
 vantages of such a society ; and it was granted to men 
 who had obtained no little distinction at that time. From 
 the large space which tliis company now deservedly holds 
 in the commercial relations of Great Britain — the great 
 power it has acquired through its liberal and well regu- 
 lated government, and through the enterprise, zeal, and 
 2* 
 
18 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 skill of its functionaries, it may not be uninteresting- to 
 detail the names of the original corporators, and the ob- 
 ject and terms of the Charter. 
 
 It was granted to " Prince Rupert, the Duke of Albe- 
 marle, the Earl of Craven, Lords Arlington and Ashley ; 
 Sirs John Robinson, Robert Vyner, Peter Colleton, Ed- 
 v/ard Hungerford, Paul Nerle, John Griffith, and Philip 
 Carteret ; to James Hoycs, John Kirke, Francis Milling- 
 ton, William Prettyman, and John Fenn, Esqrs. ; and to 
 John Portman, citizen and goldsmith of the city of Lon- 
 don ;" giving them and their successors the sole com- 
 merce and trade of all those seas, bays, creeks, rivers, 
 lakes, &c,, in whatsoever latitude they shall be, that lie 
 within the entrance of Hudson's Straits ; together with 
 all the Isnds, trade, fisheries, mines, minerals, &c., on 
 the confines of those seas, bays, lakes, and rivers, if not 
 then possessed by any British subjects, or by the subjects 
 of any other Christian prince or state. In a word, all 
 those countries wliose waters run into Hudson's Bay 
 were included in the Charter. The reason for creating 
 this chartered corporation is stated to be, that those indi- 
 viduals did at their own cost undertake an expedition to 
 Hudson's Bay, for the discovery and prosecution of a 
 trade in furs, minerals, and other important commodities ; 
 and by such undertaking made such discoveries as may 
 be of great advantage to the kingdom. 
 
 The management of the corporation (which was in- 
 vested with the usual corporate privileges, of possessing, 
 and transmitting to their successors, lands, rents, juris- 
 dictions, &c., and were to direct the voyages and ex- 
 ploring excursions, and the sale of merchandise), was 
 centred in a Governor and Committee of seven. Prince 
 Rupert was the first Governor ; and the first Committee 
 consisted of Sirs J. Robinson, Robert Vyner, and Peter 
 Colleton; with Messrs. Hoyes, Kirke, Millington, and 
 Portman. 
 
 The Governor (or deputy-governor for the time being), 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 19 
 
 with the Committee, were to be appointed annually by 
 election among- the members ; and were removable in 
 case of misconduct. The whole of this vast and unde- 
 fined region was to be reckoned as one of his Majesty's 
 Colonies, and was called Prince Rupert's Land. The 
 Governor and the Company were to be lords proprietors 
 of the same for ever ; empowered to make laws for the 
 g-ood government of the territory and the advancement of 
 trade; to impose penalties and punishments, provided, 
 however, that they were not unreasonable, and repugnant 
 to the Laws of England. 
 
 No subject of the British Crown was to be allowed to 
 trade within the Company's territories without their 
 written and sealed permission, under penalty of a for- 
 feiture of the merchandise embarked : neither was even 
 a royal license to trade to be given to any one without 
 the Company's consent. As a proof of the wealth and 
 importance of the Company, even in its infancy, it may 
 be stated, that stock to the amount of one hundred pounds 
 (a large sum in those days, if we consider the relative 
 value of money then and now) formed the qualification 
 for the possession of even a single vote. Individuals 
 were allowed a plurality of votes in proportion to their 
 possession of funded property in the concern. 
 
 The Company were empowered to appoint district 
 governors, and other officers, to judge in all cases, civil 
 and criminal, according- to the Laws of England, 
 
 They were also empowered to grant lands — give com- 
 mercial privileges — build towns — employ, for the protec- 
 tion of their trade and territory, armed force — appoint 
 commanders, and erect forts, &c. They were empowered, 
 also, to transport to England all British subjects found 
 trading in their territory, without their permission ; and 
 furthermore all admirals, and other officers of the crown, 
 were enjoined to lend their aid in assisting the execution 
 of the powers granted to the Company by the Charter. 
 
 Such is an outline of the privileges and powers granted 
 
20 OREGON TERUITORV. 
 
 to the greatest commercial association that ever appeared 
 in England, next to the East India Company: an associa- 
 tion that has kept on the even tenor of its useful and 
 prosperous course, diffusing wealth at home, and spread- 
 ing civilization abroad — ransacking tlie wildest, the 
 dreariest, and most ungenial regions of tiie earth to pro- 
 vide comfort and luxury and wealth for tlie people of 
 England ; and pointing out to the benighted savage the 
 means of improvement, comfort, and liappiness. 
 
 Though there were associations formed by French 
 Canadians for the beaver trade so early as 1630, yet the 
 French had no actual or permanent establishments, nor 
 did they claim the right of occupation of any portion of 
 the interior. It appears, from the history of Father 
 Charlevoix and Hennepin, that, for some years after the 
 date of the Charter, the French had no established 
 trading posts even as far as Lake Superior ; neither had 
 they any established possessions in the vicinity of Hud- 
 son's Bay. So that the terms of the grant did not in- 
 terfere with any previous right of others. 
 
 Whatever pretensions may have been made by the 
 French subsequently to the Charter to any portion of that 
 extensive region, they were completely set aside on the 
 conquest of Canada ; and then the jurisdiction and pos- 
 sessions of the Company were confirmed, in all their 
 former plenitude. Even after the establishment of 
 American Independence, none of the Hudson's Bay ter- 
 ritories, or of the waters running into Hudson's Bay, 
 were included in the lines assigned as the boundaries be- 
 tween the possessions of Great Britain and those of the 
 United States. By the treaty of 1794, which permits 
 the most perfect freedom of intercourse and communica- 
 tion between the subjects of both nations throughout their 
 respective dominions, an exception is made of the country 
 within the limits of the Hudson's Bay Company (to be 
 ascertained in conformity with their Charter), from which 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 21 
 
 the Americans are expressly excluded. In fine, the 
 Charter has been sanctioned by various subsequent Acts 
 of Parliament, and by treaties of peace. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 British-Canadian fur trade — Establishment of the Northwest 
 Company — Its organization and operations — Rivalry between 
 it and the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 
 For a long series of years the French Canadian traders 
 found active competitors in the British ; and on the con- 
 quest of that country, in 1762, they became nearly ex- 
 tinct, the Hudson's Bay Company, and other British 
 traders, monopolizing almost the whole fur commerce of 
 North America. In a few years the Canadian trade 
 began to revive, but under British merchants and under 
 a different system. The old French system of licenses 
 was abolished, as inconsistent with the principles of free 
 trade ; and spirituous liquors were allowed as an article of 
 barter, from a knowledge of the ungovernable propensity 
 of the Indians to that luxury, which they would make 
 any sacrifice of property to obtain. 
 
 Various expeditions were fitted out by separate indi- 
 viduals, and sometimes by separate rival partners, who 
 pursued their own interests without fear or scruple, and 
 seemed to have only two objects in view, — their own ad- 
 vantage and the injury of their competitors. The con- 
 sequences were, licentiousness, feuds, and excesses of 
 every kind in those regions far distant from the reach of 
 all legal restraint. The Indians, too, by intoxication, and 
 the vicious example and incentives of the Coureurs des 
 hois, and other agents, became quarrelsome, knavish, and 
 reckless. At last, the nativ^es, who were engaged by dif- 
 ferent contending parties to attack each other, threatened 
 
22 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 to make common cause and extirpate the traders. These 
 accumulated evils, the result of excessive competition, 
 brought the trade to the lowest ebb, and to save it from 
 ruin several eminent merchants formed a junction, to 
 carry it on in partnership, in 1783. This plan seemed to 
 work well ; and similar associations were subsequently 
 formed with success. At last there was an amalgamation 
 of all in one grand association ; and this was formed in 
 1805, the famous Northwest Company, which for many 
 j^ears exercised so much power, and threatened the de- 
 struction of the Hudson's Bay Company, which had been 
 chartered since 1670. 
 
 The management of this Company was vested in 
 partners, who had various trading-posts established far 
 and wide through the interior. Several of the partners 
 resided in Montreal and Quebec to manage the affairs of 
 the Company ; they were called agents, and were persons 
 of great importance : the other partners took their stations 
 at the interior posts, where they remained throughout the 
 winter, to superintend the intercourse with the various 
 tribes of Indians, and were called wintering-partners. 
 The goods destined for this wide and wandering traffic 
 with the Indians were stored in the Company's ware- 
 houses in Montreal, and thence conveyed by boats up the 
 numerous rivers and lakes that intersect this vast region, 
 and by portages, or land-carriage ways.* Though this 
 Company was at first but a spontaneous association of 
 merchants, yet when it became regularly organized, ad- 
 mission into it became extremely difficult. A candidate 
 liad to undergo a long probation, and to rise slowly by 
 his merits. He began at an early age as clerk, and 
 
 * It must be observed, that portage means a land-car- 
 riage way, when, in consequence of the impracticability 
 of the rivers, from cataracts, or other obstructions, canoes, 
 goods, and all must be borne overland, until another 
 navigable part be reached. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. . 23 
 
 served an apprenticeship of seven years, for Vs'hicli, be- 
 sides his clothing-, equipment, and expenses, he received 
 £100. His probation uas g-encrally passed in the interior 
 trading-.posts, subject to all the uncertainties and hard- 
 ships incidental to a life in so wild a region. When he 
 had served his apprenticeship, he received a salary com- 
 mensurate with his deserts, and was eligible to a partner, 
 ship in the Company, though years, perhaps his life, may 
 have passed away before he attained that object of his 
 toils and ambition. Most of the clerks were young men 
 of good families from Scotland, — thrifty, hardy, bold, and 
 persevering, and generally vvcll calculated for the difficult 
 duties they were required lo discharge. The principal 
 partners, or agents, who resided in Montreal and Quebec, 
 formed a kind of commercial aristocracy. From early 
 associations, and a community of pursuit and interest, 
 the partners were closely banded together ; and their 
 union, energy, and wealth, gave them great influence 
 with the government, which often procured immunity for 
 crimes committed by their officials and servants. 
 
 They held a general meeting every summer at Fort 
 William, near the grand portage, at the northwestern 
 extremity of Lake Superior. Here they discussed and 
 arranged the affairs of tlie preceding year, and laid down 
 the plans of operation for the next. Here too the clerks, 
 and principal servants, assembled to receive their instruc- 
 tions ; and a succession of festivities was kept up for 
 several days. No system could be better devised to infuse 
 activity into every department, and spread the influence 
 of the Company ; and some idea may be formed of the 
 extensive range which their operations embraced, from 
 the circumstance that, in the plenitude of their pow^er, 
 they employed no less than two thousand voyageurs, or 
 boatmen, at average wages of forty pounds a year each. 
 They extended the fur trade into regions previously un- 
 explored, and opened new and extensive markets for the 
 commercial industry, enterprise, and manufacturing in- 
 
24 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 dustry of the empire, and so took formal and permanent 
 possession of districts not occupied by the subjects of any 
 other power, among which the most important was 
 Columbia. 
 
 The impetus, and almost new character which they 
 gave to the prosecution of the fur trade — their encroach- 
 ments on the Hudson's Bay Company, whom they not 
 merely wished to outrival, but determined to crush — their 
 subsequent amalgamation with that Company ; and the 
 great and lasting influence which this amalgamation has 
 had for commercial good, render it necessary to enter 
 somewhat into detail on their proceedings. 
 
 There were three distinct differences between the two 
 Companies which deserve to be noticed. The Hudson's 
 Bay Company had received a royal grant, confirmed by 
 Acts of Parliament, of the vast extent of territory within, 
 or bordering on, all the waters that run into Hudson's 
 Bay. It is true the limits were not strictly defined, but 
 they were intelligible. Having, within their own terri- 
 tories, ample range for the pursuit of their trade, they 
 had no incentive for encroachment on foreign territory. 
 But the Northwest Company, being a voluntary associa- 
 tion, had no field of operation to which they could lay 
 any legal claim, — they were barely tolerated by the law ; 
 and were therefore obliged to try their fortune wherever 
 they could, 
 
 2d. The general practice of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany was to remain at their factories on the coast : to 
 these the natives resorted from the interior to trade, 
 coming down the lakes and rivers in spring to dispose of 
 the produce of the winter hunt, and returning in autumn 
 with their supplies of English manufacture, which they 
 received in exchange. But the Northwest Company, 
 having no such established marts, their servants pene- 
 trated the very recesses of the wilderness, where they 
 established stations, and huckstered with the natives at 
 their homes. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 25 
 
 3d. The officers and servants of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company were paid regular salaries ; were confined to 
 certain localities, and had a prescribed routine of duty to 
 perform. But the officials of the Northwest Company 
 \vere very differently circumstanced : they were all, from 
 the nature of their engagements, and a principle of self- 
 interest, speculators, and sons of enterprise. They be- 
 came valuable to the Company only in proportion to the 
 success of their exertions, and on this depended their 
 reward and their hopes. Sometimes, indeed, the officials 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company were sent into the interior, 
 but this was an exception, not a rule : whereas, the 
 general rule of the Northwest Company was to despatch 
 their agents into the interior, and any location at head- 
 quarters was the exception. 
 
 The Northwest Company having been fully organized 
 and prepared for operation, they proceeded at once to 
 business with great promptitude and vigour ; and though 
 they were, it must be owned, not very scrupulous as to 
 means, yet they effijcted themselves, or were the primary 
 cause in effecting, great objects. Before their time, the 
 Hudson's Bay Company was ignorant of the localities 
 and capabilities of even its own territories ; but now, 
 since its range of knowledge has been enlarged, and its 
 spirit of trade invigorated, by its fusion with the North. 
 west Company, the entire of the northern continent has 
 been explored, from tiie confines of Canada and California 
 to the Pole ; and all its resources discovered. The North- 
 west Company also performed great services to the Im- 
 perial Government during the late American war, by the 
 employment of their servants and treasures, and their 
 zeal in rousing the Indians. 
 
 The trade of the old Hudson's Bay Company was ge- 
 nerally carried on v.'ith ease, quietness, honesty, and re- 
 gularity. They had well-understood engagements with 
 the Indians, which were on both sides punctually ful- 
 filled ; and on both sides there was confidence and trust. 
 3 
 
26 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 The Company often gave goods in advance, and tlie 
 Indians never imagined that the visits of the white man 
 would be attended with perfidy or pillage. 
 
 As a proof of Indian good faith, it may be sufficient to 
 state, tliat in the year 1775, Mr. Frobisher, a Canadian 
 enterpriser, having penetrated into the regions previously 
 unexplored by his countrymen, met a party of Indians, 
 with their canoes full of valuable furs, bound for Fort 
 Churchill, one of the factories at Hudson's Bay, and tliat 
 he found great difficulty in inducing them to deal with 
 him, even for a small portion. The difficulty was, that 
 they were going to fulfil their engagements, in paying a 
 contracted debt, for which their cargo was but little more 
 than an equivalent. A few years after, a Mr. Pond, who 
 wintered among them, having collected a greater quan- 
 tity of furs than he could carry away at a time, left the 
 surplus in his hut ; and on his return next season, found 
 them undisturbed. Such was Indian integrity at that 
 time ! But one of tlie first effiarts made by the North- 
 west Company was to break up that slow mode of com- 
 merce, and introduce a quick, haphazard, and exciting 
 sort of traffic among the Indians at their homes. This 
 plan, from the natural indolence of tlie natives, unwilling 
 to undergo the toils and perils of long journeys, and from 
 their appetite for spirituous liquors, introduced as an 
 article of barter, succeeded. The Company for a time, 
 obtained an abundance of furs ; but this abundance led 
 to want. 
 
 The best season for hunting the fur-bearing animals is 
 winter, when the fur is in its prime. In summer, the 
 fur is of inferior quality ; and this, too, is the season 
 when they rear their young. For both reasons it was 
 desirable that the hunting should be suspended during 
 the summer months. Accordingly, the summer season 
 was selected for the distant voyages of the hunters to the 
 Hudson's Bay Company's factories, for the purposes of 
 traffic. Under this system, no furs were brought home 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 27 
 
 but those of the best quality ; and as the breed was pre- 
 served during summer, the supply was plentiful. But 
 when the servants of the Northwest Company went to 
 reside in the interior, the natives were tempted to aban- 
 don their commerce with the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 and to deal with them, in the prospect of superior ad van- 
 tage. They accordingly continued the hunt throughout 
 the year, and killed the cub and the full-grown beaver 
 alike. To aggravate this evil, the Company, dissatisfied 
 with even this supply, employed young men from the 
 Indian villages in Canada, to go into the interior as 
 hunters, paying them at a stipulated rate for the furs 
 procured. These, having no families to maintain, and 
 having no other employment to pursue, and having be- 
 sides no interest in preserving the breed of lucrative ani- 
 mals, destroyed them indiscriminately — young and old — 
 in season and out of season. The consequence was, that 
 districts, which once yielded those valuable animals in 
 abundance were nearly stripped of them ; and that the 
 home market was drugged — (and while such a system is 
 suffered to continue, must ever be drugged) — with inferior 
 articles. The miserable natives at last saw the impend- 
 ing ruin : — they murmured, but dared not resist. 
 
 It was necessary for the maintenance of this Com- 
 pany's monopoly throughout a vast extent of the most 
 valuable beaver countries, that they should employ a 
 great retinue of servants — greater than the legitimate 
 profits of the trade could afford — and to allow them osten- 
 sibly high wages. But in reality the wages were low, 
 for the Company reimbursed themselves by speculating 
 on the extravagance, dissipation, and necessities of their 
 dependants; for at every station they kept a sort of tally- 
 shop for credit, where the men were obliged to purchase 
 all the articles they required at an exorbitantly high 
 price. As these were generally a reckless race, and had 
 credit to the amount of their wages, and even more, they 
 were unable to hoard any provision for their old age, or 
 
28 OREGON TEKRITCRY. 
 
 for their families, who were left in a state of destitution. 
 The consequence was, that they were constantly in debt, 
 and in a state of bondage to their employers, there being 
 no alternative left them but a periodical return to their 
 employment on the tenns prescribed to them, or a jail. 
 
 From one article, a judgment may be formed of the 
 rest. They were much addicted to the use of spirituous 
 liquors, which, independently of the luxury and gratifica- 
 tion, were in some measure necessary ; considering the 
 severity of their labours, and the nature of the climate. 
 Spirits which cost the Company at ?.Iontreal little more 
 than two dollars per gallon, were sold in the interior to 
 their servants at eight dollars per quart ! So that when 
 a servant became addicted to drinking spirits, the Com- 
 pany sustained no loss by adding jC20 to his wages. An- 
 other cause of keeping the servants in debt and subjec- 
 tion, was the circulation of a depreciated currency, called 
 Northwest Currency, in the interior, in which money was 
 reckoned only at one half the value it bore in Canada. 
 The men who were engaged at Montreal had their wages 
 calculated according to the established legal currency, 
 but every article which they received in the interior was 
 charged according to the Nortlncest Currency. Thf 
 Company also continued to bring the Indians within their 
 power, by speculating on their necessities. Those who 
 inhabited the more sterile parts of the country, to the 
 east of Lake Winnipeg, and also to the north, on Church- 
 hill river, and in Athabasca, which are rocky and fiill of 
 swamps, well adapted for the habitation of the beaver, 
 but scanty of buffalo and game, were poor, scattered, and 
 consequently timid and feeble. From these the most 
 valuable furs were obtained, and these the Company inti- 
 midated to deal with themselves exclusively. 
 
 After the complete organization of the Northwest Com- 
 pany and the expulsion of all private speculators from the 
 fur-trade of Canada, the Hudson's Bay Company became 
 their only rival to the north and west of Lake Superior. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 29 
 
 From that time the hostile spirit which had been fostered 
 for years among the clerks and servants of the old rival 
 Companies that became now fused into one great wliole 
 in the Northwest Company, was all concentrated against 
 the Hudson's Bay Company; and a systematic plan not 
 only wa.s formed to drive their servants out of all the va- 
 luable beaver countries ; but hopes were entertained of 
 reducing that Company to so low an ebb, as in time to 
 induce them to transfer their chartered rights to their 
 formidable competitors. As the contests between these 
 powerful rivals filled a large space in the commercial 
 transactions of British America, and as they eventually 
 led to a great result — tlie absorption of the Northwest 
 Company in the Hudson's Bay Company, and the un- 
 divided sway of the latter association — it is necessary to 
 mention a few instances out of a long series of aggres- 
 sions, in order to convey an idea of the mode of conduct- 
 ing commercial competition, when a spirit of self-interest 
 prevailed, in regions remote from the restraints of esta- 
 blished law. 
 
 In 1806, Mr. W. Corrigal, a trader in the service of 
 the Hudson's Bay Company, was stationed with a few 
 men at a place called Bad Lake, witliin the limit of Albany 
 Factory (in the Hudson's Bay territory), and near a past 
 occupied by a much larger body of men commanded by 
 Mr. Haldane, a partner in the Northwest Company. 
 Five of the Canadians in his service, watching their op- 
 portunity, broke into Mr. Corrigal's house at night, when 
 he and his men were in bed. They immediately secured 
 all the fire-arms they could find, and, threatening to shoot 
 Mr. Corrigal if he made any resistance, rifled the store- 
 house, and took away four hundred and eighty beaver 
 skins. Corrigal soon after went to Haldane, and de- 
 manded the restoration of the property. Haldane an- 
 swered that " he came for furs, and furs he was deter- 
 mined to have." These furs were afterwards carried to 
 the grand portage, and formed a part of the Company's 
 3* 
 
30 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 returns for that year. A similar attack was made in 
 the same year on another station, at the Red Lake, also 
 under the charge of Mr. Corrigal, and fifty beaver skins, 
 together with a large quantity of cloth, brandy, tobacco, 
 ammunition, &c., carried off. 
 
 In the autumn of this year, J. Crear, a trader in the 
 service of the Hudson's Bay Company, (also on the es- 
 tablislmient of Albany Factory,) occupied a post with 
 five uicn at Big Fall, near Lake Winnipeg. One even- 
 ing a party of Canadians, under the conunand of Mr. 
 Alexander McDonnell, then a clerk of the Northwest 
 Company, encamped at a short distance. On the follow- 
 ing morning M'Donnell and his party came to dear's 
 house, in tlie absence of four of his men, and, charging 
 him with having traded furs from an Indian who was 
 indebted to the Nortliwest Company, insisted ori their 
 being given up to him. Crear refused ; and on this, 
 M'Donnell broke open the warehouse, and struck Crear 
 in the face with the butt-end of his gun, inflicting on 
 him a severe wound, and stabbed his remaining servant 
 in the arm with a dagger. They then carried off the 
 furs, a quantity of provisions, and a canoe. On the fol- 
 lowing February, one of McDonnell's assistants, at the 
 hcAd of a party, attacked Crear's house, beat him and 
 his men, and carried off a great number of valuable furs. 
 They then compelled Crear, with threats of instant death, 
 to sign a paper acknowledging that he voluntarily gave 
 up the furs, as not being properly his. 
 
 On another occasion, William Linkwater, in the ser- 
 vice of the Hudson's Bay Company, was returning to his 
 station at Reindeer Lake, bringing on a sledge a quan- 
 tity of valuable furs, which lie had traded from the In- 
 dians. He was met, near his own house, by Mr. Duncan 
 Campbell, one of the partners of the Northwest Company, 
 at the head of a body of men, and was called on to give 
 them up. On his refusal, Campbell cut the traces of the 
 sledge, beat him, and bore off the furs, for which no 
 compensation v/as ever after made. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 31 
 
 The Northwest Company having been established 
 some years at Isle ii la Crosse, near the borders of the 
 Athabasca country (but within the territories claimed by 
 the Hudson's Bay Company under their charter), had ob- 
 tained what they called the attachment of the Indians : 
 i. e., they reduced them to a state of awe and submission. 
 To this place Mr, Peter Fidler was sent, in 1809, with a 
 part}'^ of eighteen men, from Churchill Factory, to esta- 
 Wish a trading- post. The Company's officers had, on 
 many former occasions, attempted to establish a trade in 
 this place, which is the centre of a country abounding in 
 beaver ; but they were always obliged to relinquish the 
 attempt. In order the more effectually to overawe the 
 Indians from dealing with Mr. Fidler, and to deter him 
 from any attempt to protect his customers, the Northwest 
 Company reinforced their post with an extra number of 
 Canadians. A watch-house was built at his door ; so 
 that no Indian could enter unobserved. Here a party of 
 professed batailleurs, or bullies, were stationed, and em- 
 ployed not only to watch and scare away the Indians, 
 but to give every possible annoyance day and night to 
 the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company. Their fire- 
 wood was stolen — they were perpetually obstructed in 
 hunting for provisions — the produce of their garden was 
 destroyed — their fishing lines stolen in the night time ; 
 and their nets, on which they chiefly relied for subsis- 
 tence, cut to pieces. At length, growing bolder with 
 success, they issued a formal mandate, that not one of 
 the Hudson's Bay Company's sei'vants should stir out of 
 the house. 
 
 The consequence was that Fidler and his party were 
 driven away, and the Canadians burnt the hut to the 
 ground. It was not only the prosecution of trade, on the 
 part of the Hudson's Bay Company, that their rivals 
 thwarted, but even attempts to explore the country. This 
 Mr. Fidler had been despatched in 1807 to explore a part 
 of the country through which a more advantageous com- 
 
32 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 munication may be opened into Athabasca. He was em- 
 ployed merely as a surveyor ; yet he was tracked on his 
 route, and interrupted in every way ; and the Indian who 
 acted as his guide was attacked, for his breach of duty 
 to the Northwest Company, and most cruelly maltreated. 
 To these, and many similar outrages, the difficulty of 
 obtaining legal redress gave, to a certain extent, impu- 
 nity. It is true there was an act passed by the Imperial 
 Parliament, in 1803, called the "Canadian Jurisdiction 
 Act," to repress and punish such crimes ; and it was 
 passed in consequence of the complaints made of the 
 many assaults of the servants of the Old and New North- 
 west Companies on each other, when these companies 
 were violent competitors, — before their union. By this 
 Act, the courts of law in Canada were allowed to take 
 cognizance of any offences committed within the " Indian 
 territories," 
 
 But though Canadians contending against Canadians 
 may not have been brought under the operation of this 
 Act, yet when the struggle and the contention came to be 
 between the Canadians united on the one side, (after the 
 junction of the Companies,) and the servants of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company on the other, it would have been next 
 to an impossibility for a Hudson's Bay Company complai- 
 nant — a stranger — to obtain redress at Montreal for an 
 outrage committed by a Canadian, perhaps at a distance 
 of three or four thousand miles. The Canadians were 
 in possession of all the water and land passages to Mon- 
 treal — their friends and employers were then willing and 
 able to assist them, and they could have no lack of wit- 
 nesses. But how could a servant of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, who had no command of the line of route, and 
 who had no intercourse with Canada, and no agent there, 
 convey his witnesses safely such a distance, and by such 
 a route ; and how could he liope for equal facility of 
 maintaining his cause in Montreal ? 
 
 There was only one case brought to trial for twelve 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 33 
 
 years. This case, if truly reported, furnishes an example 
 of gross oppression. In 1809, Mr. W. Corrigal, of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, occupied a post near Eagle 
 Lake, to the north of Lake Superior. A party of the 
 Northwest Company established, on the loth of Sep- 
 tember, an encampment about forty yards from his 
 house, under the command of Mr. jEneas JM'Donnell, a 
 clerk of the latter Company. On the evening of their 
 encampment, an Indian arrived in his canoe, bringing a 
 cargo of furs, in part payment of a debt which he owed 
 Corrigal ; and remained at his house all night. Next 
 morning, as he was returning home with some goods — 
 such as clothing, ammunition for his winter's hunt, «Scc., 
 M'Donnell, with two of his servants, went down to the 
 wharf, and seized on the loaded canoe, on the alleged 
 ground that he was indebted to the Northwest Company. 
 Corrigal, witnessing the occurrence, sent down two of 
 his men to secure the canoe. M'Donnell drew his sword 
 and severely wounded one of the men — Tate. This scene 
 soon brought up reinforcements from both sides ; and a 
 general fight ensued, during which M'Donnell did great 
 execution with his sword. Corrigal's party were obliged 
 to retreat in a sad plight. In the pursuit, M'Donnell 
 was about to cut down a person named Mowatt, whom 
 he had previously wounded, when Mowatt turned round 
 and shot him on the spot. This put a stop, then, to hos- 
 tilities. The Northwest Company's servants despatched 
 couriers to their friends in the neighbouring posts, and 
 on the next day assembled in large bodies before Corri- 
 gal's house, which he had in the mean time barricaded, 
 demanding, with threats of instant destruction to the 
 whole party in case of refusal, that the person who shot 
 M'Donnell should be given up. Mowatt then stepped 
 forward, and said that he was the man, and would do it 
 again in his own defence. He then surrendered himself, 
 and it was agreed that two of his party, Tate and Leask, 
 should be taken with him, as his witnesses, straight to 
 
34 OREGON- TERRITORY. 
 
 Montreal ; but if he were detained till spring-, then one 
 of them was to be sent back to Eagle Lake, and Mr. 
 Corrig-al himself was to go to Montreal as his witness. 
 They accordingly were taken to the Northwest Com- 
 pany's encampment, where Mowatt w'as placed in irons. 
 
 They were thence removed to a station called Lac La 
 Pluie, where they were detained till the 26th of February, 
 Mowatt being kept all the time in irons, and his witnesses 
 subjected to great suffering. On the 26th of February, 
 Leask was sent back, and Mr. Corrigal set out. He, 
 Tate, and the prisoner arrived at Fort William on the 
 9th of June. On the 21st, Mr. A. Shaw, a partner, and a 
 magistrate for the Indian territory, under the Act of 
 1803, arrived from Montreal, and ordered Mowatt to be 
 summoned before him. Mowatt refused to answer any 
 questions, saying he wished to be taken at once to Mon- 
 treal, and placed on his trial. He was ordered back to 
 the close and solitary dungeon in which he had been 
 confined, and placed under heavy irons. Here he was 
 detained till the 17th of August, though canoes were 
 constantly plying between that place and Montreal. 
 When he was taken out to be removed to Montreal, he 
 fell down twice from weakness, and cut his face with his 
 handcuffs. During his confinement it was feared by the 
 jailor that the solitude and privation were driving him to 
 delirium, and his razors were removed. 
 
 Corrigal and Tate arrived soon afler, and to their 
 surprise, were arrested as accessories. Thus was the 
 prisoner deprived of his only means of defence ; and two 
 men, innocent of the act, w^ho went down according to 
 previous agreement, as witnesses — free and uncharged, a 
 distance of fifleen himdred miles in his behalf, were 
 entrapped into a prison. The three were penniless, un- 
 known, and unfriended in Montreal. It was not till the 
 end of November that the directors of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, who at that time had no agent or correspon- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 35 
 
 dent in Montreal, or any place in Canada, heard of the 
 prosecution thus carried on against their servants ; and 
 they then took steps for their defence by engaging- 
 counsel. The prisoners remained in prison about six 
 months; and during most of that time endured great 
 hardship. They were indicted for murder. The grand 
 jury returned a true hill against Mowatt, but ignored the 
 bills against the others. At Mowatt's trial the influence 
 of the Northwest Company was evident. The jury was 
 generally believed to have been packed ; and more than 
 one indication of manifest partiality was exhibited from 
 the bench. TJiough it was clearly proved that M'Don- 
 nell began the attack without provocation ; and that 
 Mowatt fired in self-defence, he was found guilty of 
 manslaughter, and sentenced to be imprisoned for six 
 months (having been already in close confinement for 
 eighteen months), and branded in the hand with a red- 
 hot iron. 
 
 Such are the leading facts of this memorable case, 
 about which much has been written, and which awakened 
 the attention of the British public to one of the modes of 
 carrying on the Canadian fur trade. From the bitter 
 spirit in which these contests were carried on, and the 
 criminations and recriminations so liberally and boldly 
 dealt out on both sides, it is not easy now to arrive at a 
 clear conclusion as to the relative amount of delinquency 
 of either party. The weight of evidence, however, seems 
 to incline in favour of the Hudson's Bay Company. They 
 had no occasion, at least were not under the same neces- 
 sity of resorting to violent means for securing a profitable 
 trade as their rivals. They had a charter which gave 
 them great advantages ; they had not an equal force to 
 present against their rivals ; and besides, the scene of 
 operations lay at a great distance from their head-quar- 
 ters. But, however, good came from evil : it led to a 
 junction, and the undisturbed and salutary prosecution of 
 the whole trade. 
 
30 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Establishment of ll\e Hudson's Bay Company's settlement, 
 under Lord Selkirk, at Red River — destruction of it by the 
 A'orihvvest Comj)any. 
 
 It may not be uninteresting to give an account of a 
 very judicious and laudable attempt made by the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company, to establish an agricultural colony, 
 as the nucleus, from which, in progress of time, civilized 
 society would spread in the territories of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company — an attempt which, unhappily, was marred 
 by the influences of avarice and jealousy. The Company 
 liad long been of opinion that, as the country over which 
 tliey held unlimited jurisdiction contained so many na- 
 tural resources, and was capable of yielding other riches 
 besides furs, it would be desirable, for many reasons, to 
 establish colonies in the interior ; for, independently of 
 the advantages accruing to the settlers themselves for 
 acquiring the means of independent subsistence, perhaps 
 denied to them in their native country, the example of 
 well-regulated communities, showing a respect for law, 
 order, integrity, and religion, would operate beneficially 
 in the commercial intercourse between the rude natives 
 and the licentious traders. But to found such colonies in 
 a country so far removed from any civilized establish- 
 ments was a matter surrounded with difficulties. It 
 required persons of property, influence, and judgment to 
 undertake the management of the plan. 
 
 Lord Selkirk, who possessed considerable spirit of en- 
 terprise, and acquired some note as a writer on colonial 
 emigration, entere^l into a negotiation with the Company. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 37 
 
 They accordingly, on condition of speedy settlement, 
 made to him a grant of land in a salubrious and fertile 
 district, where the land was abundantly supplied with 
 buffalo and other wild cattle, and the lakes and rivers 
 with excellent fish. He commenced then, in 1812, a set- 
 tlement at Red River, near its junction with the Assini- 
 boin River, to the south of Lake Winnipeg. Miles 
 M'Donnell, Esq., formerly a captain in the Queen's Ran- 
 gers, was selected to conduct the undertaking, and was, 
 at the same time, appointed governor of the district, un- 
 der the authority conferred by the Company's charter. 
 Though the settlement was formed in a district which 
 had been exhausted of valuable furs by the extirpation of 
 the beaver; and though the settlers were prevented, by 
 the very tenure of their lands, from interfering in the fur 
 trade, and were thus exempted from the suspicion of ri- 
 valry ; yet, extraordinary as it may appear, the North- 
 west Company, from the very moment that the Hudson's 
 Bay Company engaged in the plan of forming an agri- 
 cultural settlement upon an extended scale within their 
 territories, avowed their determined hostility to the set- 
 tlement; or to any execution, however partial, of such a 
 project. As they wished to hold exclusive possession of 
 the country, they were jealous of any establishment that 
 could be formed within the range of their monopoly, 
 where habits of sobriety, and principles of moral inte- 
 grity would operate as a check on tlie conduct of their 
 servants ; and they resolved to destroy it. 
 
 The settlement presented every appearance of growing 
 prosperity. Emigrants were arriving ; and the Indians 
 evinced a friendly disposition. But in the autumn of 
 1814, after a general meeting of the partners of the North- 
 west Company, held at Fort William, near Lake Superior, 
 an expedition was fitted out against it. The intentions 
 of the Northwest Company can be judged of by a letter 
 from Mr. Alexander M'Donnell, one of the partners, 
 dated August 5, and addressed to a brother-in-law of the 
 4 
 
38 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 Hon. William M'Gillwra}^ another of the partners, re- 
 siding in I\Iontreal. 
 
 " You see myself, and our mutual friend Mr. Cameron, 
 so far on our way to commence open hostilities against 
 the enemy. Much is expected from us. One thing cer- 
 tain is, that Ave will do our best to defend what we con- 
 sider our rights in the interior. Nothing but the com- 
 plete doiovfall of the colony will satisfy some, by fair or 
 foul means — a most desirable object if it can be elFected. 
 So here is at them with all my heart and energy." 
 
 Their first plan of proceeding was to seduce or frighten 
 away as many of the colonists and their servants as they 
 could ; and raise the Indians to destroy the settlement. 
 Previously to their setting out, ^I'Donnell and Cameron 
 provided themselves with the uniforms of British military 
 officers, and administered an oath in Fort William to 
 their followers to obey all the orders of their commander 
 for the defence of the interests of the Company in the 
 Northwest. On their arriving at Fort Gibraltar, a fort 
 belonging to the Northwest Company, within about a 
 mile of the Red River settlement, Cameron assumed the 
 style and title of commander, alleging that government 
 had conferred that appointment upon him, and issued 
 proclamations in that character. Their first step was to 
 excite discontent among the settlers : and several of them 
 were induced, by prospects of reward or by intimidation, 
 to desert, and pillage the settlement ; which they did ; 
 for among other articles, they took oflT nine pieces of ar- 
 tillery, with a quantity of muskets and ammunition, sent 
 out by the board of ordnance for its defence ; Cameron 
 and his party being posted under arms close by ready to 
 support the plunderers if resisted. The settlement being 
 thus deprived of its principal means of defence, and ha- 
 rassed for months by a series of other aggressions and 
 losses, it was at last determined, in June 1815, that Ca- 
 meron should attack it with his whole force. This attack, 
 followed up by others, having failed, though attended 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 39 
 
 with much damage to the colony, the assailants brought 
 the artillery to batter down the buildings. Then at last 
 the governor was obliged to surrender, and he was sent 
 a prisoner to Montreal, under a warrant from a partner 
 of the Northwest Company on a charge of having prohi- 
 bited the exportation of provisions ; and having detained 
 some bags of pemican (a preparation of dried buffalo 
 meat) belonging to the Company. The remainder of 
 them were expelled ; their cattle slaughtered ; and their 
 buildings levelled down. 
 
 Messrs. M'Donnell and Cameron were treated with 
 great distinction by the Company, and in approbation of 
 their services were retained in their former posts. 
 
 But in autumn, the colonists who had been driven out 
 returned with an accession to their numbers, partly from 
 Scotland, and partly from Canada, under the conduct of 
 Mr. Colin Robertson, a gentleman in the service of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, and resumed the occupation of 
 their fields at Red River. Soon after, Robert Semple, 
 Esq., who had been appointed governor over the whole of 
 the Hudson's Bay territories, arrived at Red River. The 
 Northwest Company now felt that a more vigorous effort 
 than the former could alone enable them to destroy the 
 renovated settlement. The previous stratagems, of sow- 
 ing disaffection, and influencing the colonists, were now 
 impracticable. They were committed in open warfare 
 with the Hudson's Bay Company ; their sole hopes then 
 lay in superior physical power. An unusually large force 
 was collected, in the spring of 1816, at Northwest Fort, 
 on the river Qui Appelle, within the Hudson's Bay terri- 
 tories, under the command of Alexander M'Donnell. To 
 form this force, requisitions had been made upon various 
 forts of the Northwest Company, to a very great dis- 
 tance ; all of whom contributed their quotas. The great- 
 est energy was exhibited by the different partners of the 
 Company. Mr. Duncan Campbell, a partner who com- 
 manded at Fort Cumberland, in despatching his rein- 
 
40 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 forccments, told them that it was indispensable that they 
 sliould have the Governor, Mr. Senaplc, and Mr. Robert- 
 son, or their heads. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company had a post likewise on 
 the river Qui Appclle, in the vicinity of the post where 
 M'Donnell commanded. This river is one of the tribu- 
 taries to the Red River. The post established there by 
 the Hudson's Bay Company was one of those denominated 
 provision posts; and from it large quantities of provisions 
 were sent down in boats to the Red River for the use of 
 the colony, and the Company. Governor Semple hearing 
 at Red River that the Northwest Company were collect, 
 ing a large force at Qui Appelle, and fearing they would 
 prevent the arrival at the settlement of the provisions ex- 
 pected from that quarter, despatched a Mr. Pambrun with 
 an escort, to insure their safe arrival. This party, on 
 their return with the provisions, as well as a quantity of 
 furs and other property, were attacked by a superior force, 
 at an intricate part of the river, where resistance was 
 hopeless — were made prisoners, and carried back, with 
 the cargo, to M'Donnell's position at Qui Appelle 
 
 M'Donnell, when all the expected levies had arrived, set 
 out for the attack of the colony, and on his way sacked 
 the Hudson's Bay Company's boats at Brandon House. 
 Having arrived at a place called Portages des Prairies, 
 about sixty miles from the colony, he halted there with 
 the main bod}' of his forces, and sent forward a detach- 
 ment of about seventy horsemen, under the command of 
 Cuthbert Grant. The Governor, Mr. Semple, having 
 learned that an armed body of men was at hand, and 
 capturing some of the settlers, proceeded with about, 
 thirty attendants to meet them, hoping by his presence 
 and authority to prevent hostilities, especially as he was 
 ignorant of their number and real intentions. He was 
 soon surrounded and summoned to surrender : on his 
 refusal he and his party were instantly slain, with the 
 exception of one who was kept a prisoner, and four who 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 41 
 
 escaped, in the tumult, across the river. Grant employed 
 the prisoner to induce the inhabitants of the settlement, 
 and of the Hudson's Bay Company's fort attached to it, 
 to make an entire and unconditional surrender, as the 
 only means of escaping- from destruction. There was no 
 alternative : they were reduced to utter helplessness and 
 despair : and accordingly they surrendered every thing, 
 beg-ging only for their lives. The certificate of protec- 
 tion granted to each individual ran thus : — 
 
 " This is to certify that behaved honourably 
 
 to the Northwest Company. 
 
 CuTHBERT Grant, 
 
 Clerk to the Northwest Company," 
 
 This document shows that either real or supposed in- 
 terference with the interests of the Company constituted, 
 originally, the chief crime of the settlers. These sur- 
 vivors were immediately embarked in canoes, to the 
 number of two hundred, including women and children, 
 with a very insufficient stock of provisions for their 
 journey, to Hudson's Bay. Thus was the downfall of the 
 colony, according to M'Donnell's intimation in his letter, 
 effected. The majority of the sufferers were Scotch, and 
 the conductors of the attack were their own countrymen. 
 It shows what the love of gain can do. 
 
 4* 
 
42 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Trappers, or beaver hunters — Voyageurs, or boatmen. 
 
 In the old times of the Canadian fur trade when the 
 trade in furs was chiefly pursued about the lakes and 
 rivers, the expeditions were, in a great degree, carried on 
 in batteaux and canoes. But a totally different class 
 now sprung up — the " mountaineers" — tlie traders and 
 trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue 
 their hazardous vocation amidst their wild recesses — 
 moving from place to place on horseback — exposed not 
 alone to the perils of the wilderness, but to the perils of 
 attack from fierce Indians, to whom it has become as 
 favourite an exploit to harass and way-lay a band of 
 trappers with their pack-horses, as it is to the Arabs of 
 the desert to plunder a caravan. The equestrian exer- 
 cises in which they are constantly engaged — the nature 
 of the country they traverse — vast plains and mountains 
 pure and exhilarating in their atmospheric qualities — 
 seem to make them, physically and mentally, a more 
 lively, vigorous, daring and enduring race than the fur 
 traders and trappers of former days, who generally had 
 huts or tents to shelter them from the inclemency of the 
 seasons — were seldom exposed to the hostility of the 
 natives, and generally were within reach of supplies 
 from the settlements. There is, perhaps, no class of men 
 on the earth who lead a life of more continued exertion, 
 danger, and excitement, and who are more enamoured of 
 their occupations, than the free trappers of the wild re- 
 gions of the west. No toil, no danger, no privation, can 
 
OREGON TERRITORy. 43 
 
 turn the trapper aside from his pursuit. If his meal is 
 not ready in time, he takes his rifle — hies to the forest — 
 shoots his game — lights his fire ; and cooks his repast. 
 With his horse and his rifle he is independent of the 
 world, and spurns its restraints. In vain may the most 
 vigilant and cruel savages beset his path — in vain may 
 rocks, and precipices, and vidntry torrents oppose his 
 progress ; let but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, 
 and he forgets all danger, and defies all difficulties. At 
 times he may be seen, with his traps on his shoulder, 
 buffeting his way across rapid streams amidst floating 
 blocks of ice : at other times may he be seen, with his 
 traps slung on his back, clambering the most rugged 
 mountains — scaling or descending the most frightful pre- 
 cipices — searching by routes inaccessible to horse, and 
 never before trodden by white man, for springs and lakes 
 unknown to his comrades, where he may meet with his 
 favourite game. 
 
 This class of hunters are generally Canadians by birth, 
 and of French descent ; who, after being bound to serve 
 the traders for a certain number of years and receive 
 wages, or hunt on shares, then continued to hunt and 
 trap on their own account, trading with the Company 
 like the Indians; hence they are called /ree men. Having 
 passed their youth in the wilderness, in constant inter- 
 course with the Indians, and removed from civilized 
 society, they lapse with natural facility into the habits of 
 savage life. They generally intermarry with the natives, 
 and, like them, have often a plurality of wives. Wardens 
 of tlie wilderness, according to the vicissitudes of the 
 seasons, the migrations of animals, and the plenty or 
 scarcity of game, they lead a precarious and unsettled 
 existence, exposed to sun and storm, and all kinds of 
 hardships, until they resemble the Indians in complexion, 
 as well as in tastes and habits. From time to time they 
 bring their peltries to the trading-houses of the Company, 
 and barter them for such articles as they may require. 
 
44 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 When Montreal was the great emporium of the fur trade, 
 some of them would occasionally return, after an absence 
 of many years, to visit their old associates. There they 
 would squander the long- and hard earned fruits of their 
 labours ; and after the fit of revelry was over go back to 
 their former toils, and the freedom of the forest. Some 
 few of them, however, retained a little of the thrift and 
 forethought of the civilized man, and became wealthy 
 among their improvident neighbours; their wealth con- 
 sisting chiefly of large bands of horses, scattered over the 
 prairies in the vicinity of their abodes. 
 
 There was another class, the native Indians of Canada, 
 who had partially conformed to the habits of civilization, 
 and received the doctrines of Christianity, under the in- 
 fluence of the French colonists and the Romon Catholic 
 priests, who certainly diff'uscd move of the knowledge and 
 principles of the Christian religion among the North 
 American Indians than the Protestant missionaries have. 
 These half-civilized Indians retained some of the good 
 and of the evil qualities of their original stock. Though 
 they generally professed the Roman Catholic religion, it 
 was mixed up with some of their ancient superstitions, 
 especially their belief in omens and charms. These men 
 were often employed for a stated time by the Company as 
 trappers and canoe-men, though on lower terms than were 
 allowed to the white men, but generally in the end they 
 became free trappers. 
 
 Voyageurs. — As this class of functionaries was, and is 
 indispensable in the prosecution of the fur-trade ; and as 
 they form one of those distinct and strong-marked orders 
 of people springing up in that vast continent out of geo- 
 graphical circumstances, or the varied pursuits, habitudes, 
 and origins of the population, the following sketch of a 
 few of their leading characteristics may be interesting 
 and instructive. The voyageurs form a kind of fraternity 
 in the Canadas, like the arrieros, or carriers, in Spain, 
 and, like them, are employed in long internal expeditions 
 
OREGOX TERRITORY. 45 
 
 of travel and traffic ; but with this difference, that the 
 arrieros travel by land, with mules and horses, the voija. 
 geurs by water, with batteaux, or boats, and canoes. 'I'he 
 voyageurs may be said to have sprung up out of the fur- 
 trade, having been originally employed by the early 
 French merchants in their trading expeditions through 
 the labyrinth of rivers and lakes of the boundless interior. 
 They were coeval with the coureurs des hois, or rangers 
 of the woods, already noticed, and like them, in the inter- 
 vals of their long and laborious expeditions were prone to 
 pass their time in idleness and revelry about the trading- 
 posts, or settlements — squandering their hard earnings 
 in heedless conviviality ; and rivalling their neighbours 
 the Indians in indolent indulgence and an improvident 
 disregard to to-morrow. Their dress is generally half 
 civilized, half savage. They wear a capot, or outside 
 coat, made of a blanket — a striped cotton shirt — cloth 
 trowsers, or leathern leggins — moccasins, or deerskin 
 shoes, without a sole, and ornamented on the upper ; and 
 a belt of variegated worsted, from which are suspended a 
 knife, tobacco-pouch, and other implements. Their lan- 
 guage is of the same piebald character, being a French 
 patois, embroidered with Indian and English words and 
 phrases. Their lives are passed in wild and extensive 
 rovings in the service of individuals, but more especially 
 of the fur-traders. They are generally of French descent, 
 and inherit much of the gaiety and light-heartedness of 
 their ancestors ; being full of anecdote and song, and ever 
 ready for the dance. They inherit, too, a fund of civility 
 and complaisance ; and instead of that hardness and 
 grossness which men in laborious life are apt to indulge 
 towards each other, they are naturally obliging and ac- 
 commodating — interchanging kind offices, — yielding each 
 other assistance and comfort in every emergency ; and 
 using the familiar and affijctionate appellations of " cou- 
 sin," and " brother," when there is, in fact, no relation- 
 ship. Their natural good-will is probably heightened by 
 
46 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 a community of adventure and hardship in their preca- 
 rious and wandering life. No men are more submissive 
 to their leaders and employers — more capable of enduring- 
 hardships, or more good-humoured under privations. 
 Never are they so happy as when on long and rough ex- 
 peditions, toiling up rivers, or coasting lakes, on the 
 borders of v/hich they encamp at night, gossip round 
 their fires, and bivouac in the open air. They are dex- 
 terous boatmen, vigorous and adroit with the oar and 
 paddle, and will row from morning till night v/ithout a 
 murmur. The steersman often sings an old traditionary 
 French song, with some regular cliorus, in wliich they 
 all join, keeping time with their oars ; and if at any time 
 they flag in spirits or relax in exertion, it is but neces- 
 sary to strike up a song of the kind to put them all in 
 fresh spirits and activity. The Canadian waters are 
 vocal with these songs, that have been echoed from 
 mouth to mouth, and transmitted from father to son, from 
 the earliest days of the colony ; and it has a pleasing 
 eifect to see, in a still, golden summer evening, a batteau 
 gliding across the bosom of the lake, dipping its oars to 
 the cadence of these quaint old ditties, or sweeping along 
 in full chorus, on a bright sunny morning, down the 
 transparent current of one of the Canadian rivers. 
 
 When Canada passed under British domination, and 
 the old French trading-houses were broken up, the voya- 
 geurs, like the coureurs des bois, were for a long time 
 disheartened and disconsolate ; and with difficulty could 
 reconcile themselves to the service of the new-comers, so 
 different in manners, habits, and language, from their 
 former employers. By degrees, however, they became 
 accustomed to the change ; and at length came to con- 
 sider the British fur-traders, and especially the Northwest 
 Company, as the legitimate lords of creation. 
 
 " An instance," says W. Irving, " of the buoyant tem- 
 perament and professional pride of these people was fur- 
 nished in the gay and braggart style in which a party of 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 47 
 
 them arrived at New York to join the enterprise.* They 
 were determined to regale and astonish the people of the 
 ' States' with the sight of a Canadian boat and a Cana- 
 dian crew. They accordingly fitted up a large, but light, 
 bark canoe — such as is used in the fur-trade — transplanted 
 it in a wagon from the banks of the St. Lawrence to the 
 shores of Lake Champlain — traversed the lake in it from 
 end to end — hoisted it again in a wagon — wheeled it off 
 to Lansingburg, and then launched it upon the Avaters of 
 the Hudson. Down this river they plied their course 
 merrily on a fine summer's day, making its banks re- 
 sound, for the first time, with their old French boat-songs 
 — passing by the villages with whoop and halloo, so as to 
 make the honest Dutch farmers mistake them for a crew 
 of savages. In this way they swept in full song, and 
 with regular flourish of the paddle, round New York, in 
 a still summer evening, to the delight and admiration of 
 its inhabitants, who had never witnessed on their waters 
 a nautical apparition of the kind. 
 
 " But we are talking of things that are fast fading 
 away. Mechanical invention is driving every thing poeti- 
 cal before it. The steamboats, which are fast dispelling^ 
 the solitude, wildness, and romance of our lakes and 
 rivers, are proving as fatal to the race of Canadian voya- 
 geurs, as they have been to the boatmen on the Missis- 
 sippi. They are no longer the lords of our internal seas, 
 and the great navigators of the wilderness. Their range 
 is fast contracting to those remote waters, and shallow 
 and obstructed rivers unvisited by the steamboat. In the 
 course of years they will gradually disappear — their songs 
 will die away like the echoes they once awakened ; and 
 the Canadian voyage urs will become a forgotten race, or 
 remembered, like their associates the Indians, among the 
 poetical images of past times, and as a theme for local 
 and romantic associations." 
 
 * The trading expedition fitted out by Mr. Foster for 
 the Columbia. 
 
48 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 Without speculating as to the duration of their future 
 existence, (and unless steam should make rapid strides, 
 and produce wonderful changes, — " make the rough ways 
 smooth, and the crooked straight," — deepen shallows — 
 level waterfalls ; and smoothen rapids, in the streams, 
 lakes, and rivers of British America, their extirpation in 
 the northwest is not likely soon to occur), I may observe, 
 that however much the romance and poetry of their pur- 
 suit and enterprise may decay, their physical comforts 
 are likely to be greatly improved. The system under 
 which they so successfully played the part of joyous ad- 
 venturers, indefatigable fresh-water rovers, has been 
 changed, and for the better. The whole of the vast con- 
 tinent stretching from the Pacific to the Atlantic, and 
 from Lake Superior and the Columbia to the Pole, save 
 the strip of sea-coast occupied by the Russians on the 
 North Pacific, is under the jurisdiction of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. Throughout this immense region they 
 have stations established at convenient distances ; and 
 within the limits of tlie territories attached to each sta- 
 tion, the duties of the several bands of voyageurs are 
 generally confined. They know their range of adven- 
 ture, where they are to halt, and what is to be their final 
 destination. They are well paid and well fed, and need 
 have no care for to-morrow. It is true they have less 
 ardent spirits, but they have more substantial food. They 
 have less incentive for speculation, but they have more 
 certainty of pay. They have less freedom, but more 
 security of person. 
 
 The following sketch of the fare of the voyageurs, and 
 the other hard-working servants of the Company, at 
 present, though applied to a peculiar undertaking, will, 
 however, in the main, hold good about their treatment 
 generally. I must premise that animal food is their only 
 subsistence often in those remote regions ; as they have 
 neither bread nor vegetables : — 
 
 " On Cliristmas and New Year's days," says Simpson, 
 
OREGON TEPvRITORY. 49 
 
 » we entertained our assembled people with a dance, fol- 
 lowed by a supper consisting of the best fare we could 
 command. By this time we had, through onr indefati- 
 gable exertions, accumulated two or three weeks' pro- 
 visions in advance, and no scarcity was experienced 
 during the remainder of the season. The daily rations 
 served out to each man was increased from eight to ten, 
 and to some individuals twelve, pounds of venison, or, 
 when they could be got, four or five white-fish, weighing 
 from fifteen to twenty pounds. This quantity of solid 
 food, immoderate as it may appear, does not exceed the 
 average standard of the country ; and ought certainly to 
 satisfy the inordinate appetite of a French Canadian ; yet 
 there was one of them who complained he had not enough, 
 and did not scruple to help himself to an additional 
 supply whenever the opportunity offered — it would have 
 taken twenty pounds of animal food daily to satisfy him." 
 
 The Company's servants are not less well clothed and 
 paid than they are fed. They are treated by their imme- 
 diate masters with a familiar kindness, surpassing what 
 I have ever seen elsewhere, even in the United States ; 
 and their whole condition affords the strongest possible 
 contrast to the wretched situation of the Russian " pro- 
 muschlenicks," as described by Langsdaff. The nature 
 of the climate and the long journeys demand, it is true, 
 hard labour hy times ; but it is labour voluntarily en- 
 dured, and less physically severe than the compulsory 
 trackings on the rivers of Russia and China, while a 
 great part of the year is spent in comparative idleness ; 
 and if the voyageur finds the fatigue and hardships too 
 great, it rests with himself to be released from them at 
 the close of his three years' contract. 
 
 The canoes generally used by the fur traders of the 
 north for navigating the intricate and often obstructed 
 rivers, are between thirty and forty feet long, and several 
 feet in width, constructed of birch bark, sewed with 
 fibres of the roots of the spruce tree, and daubed with 
 5 
 
50 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 resin of the pine, in place of tar. These, though capable 
 of sustaining a freight of four tons each, can readily be 
 carried on men's shoulders. Canoes of this kind are gene- 
 rally managed by eight or ten men, two of whom are 
 picked veterans, who received double wages, and are sta- 
 tioned one at the bow, the other at tlie stern, to keep a 
 look-out and to steer : they are termed the foreman and 
 the steersman. The rest, who ply the paddles, are called 
 middle men. When there is a favourable breeze, the canoe 
 is occasionally navigated with a sail. From the lightness 
 of such materials as the canoes were made of — bark — the 
 utmost vigilance, patience, and exertion, were necessary 
 for the intricate and difficult navigation in Vi'hicli they 
 were often employed. Sometimes the boat wovdd be 
 exposed to frequent danger from floating trees, and great 
 masses of drift-wood ; or be impaled on sunken trees, 
 presenting a jagged or pointed end above the surface of 
 the water. Sometimes the boat should be drawn by the 
 hand, and by grappling-hooks, from one root or over- 
 hanging tree to another, or drawn by towing-lines, when 
 the shores were sufficiently clear to allow the men to 
 pass along the banks. Sometimes a part of the crew 
 would have to leap into the water at the shallows, and 
 wade along with the towing-lines, while their comrades 
 on board assisted them with oar and setting-pole. Some- 
 times the boat would seem to be retained motionless, as 
 if spell-bound, opposite some point round which the cur- 
 rent set with violence, and with the utmost labour scarce 
 effected any visible progress. When it is considered 
 that they penetrated into the interior to the distance of 
 three or four thousand miles — exposed sometimes to a 
 scorching sun, sometimes to the most piercing cold — 
 cutting their way through drifting ice — suffering from 
 physical privations, through unknown and barren regions 
 — beset with dangers, without any certain prospect of 
 reaching any place of security and comfort, some con- 
 ception may be formed of the life of a northwest voyage ur. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 51 
 
 A stranger seeing these lig-ht and Sender vessels piled 
 high with a load of goods of evefy kind packed in bales, 
 each weighing ninety pounds ; with their various neces- 
 saries of clothing, food, &c,, also stowed away in bales ; 
 and with hampers, boxes, &c., containing the articles of 
 the officers ; and seeing them weighed down in the water 
 to the gunwale's edge — he would think it an act of utter 
 desperation to attempt to pass in them through boisterous, 
 intricate, and obstructed waters. But so practised, hardy, 
 and zealous arc these voyageurs, that danger or accident 
 but very rarely occurs. 
 
 There arc no birch canoes used in the Oregon country 
 by the Company's servants. They use only the batteaux, 
 which arc made of quarter-inch pine boards, and are 
 thirty-two feet long, and six and a half feet wide in 
 midships, with both ends sharp, and without a keel — 
 worked, according to tlie circumstances of the naviga- 
 tion. Math paddles, or with oars. These boats are found 
 to be better adapted to the lakes and rivers there, than 
 the canoes of the north. 
 
 When the voyageurs arrive at a portage, whether the 
 vessels used be canoes or batteaux, every thing is un- 
 shipped ; and each voyagcur carries two bales, or one 
 hundred and eighty pounds weight, on his back, held by 
 a strap passing round his forehead, on which the force of 
 the draught lies : and with this weight they will run on 
 briskly, sometimes for miles. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Description of the present settlement at I'cd River — hunting 
 the buffalo. 
 
 When the Northwest Company became merged in the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, and the latter were left at full 
 
52 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 liberty to proseculU their plans of improvement without 
 rivalry or interruption,* they restored the settlement at 
 Red River, and on a more extended scale. 
 
 From the circumstances connected with its original 
 formation — from the singularity of its position and cha- 
 racter, it being a sort of oasis in the vast waste of a 
 savage region — from its present and growing importance 
 to the objects of the colony, a brief sketch of it may not 
 be uninteresting. It is situated in the fiftieth degree of 
 north latitude, and the ninety-seventh of west longitude, 
 at an elevation of about one thousand feet above the level 
 of the sea, and near the confluence of the Red and As- 
 sinaboine rivers, whose united waters run northward 
 about thirty miles, into Lake Winnipeg, which receives 
 many other tributary streams. These two large rivers 
 flow through a fertile country of vast extent, which pos- 
 sesses a salubrious climate. The Red River rises in the 
 United States, near the sources of the Mississippi, and 
 runs northward. The Assinaboine flows from the north- 
 west. The cold season lasts about five months, from 
 November till April. But the ice on Lake Winnipeg does 
 not break up till May. At the opening of the fine season, 
 an immense quantity of sturgeon and other fisli is caught. 
 There are occasionally summer frosts, generated by un- 
 drained marshes, which impede the exertions of the 
 husbandman ; but this evil is gradually melting away 
 before the march of cultivation. The range of the settle- 
 ment stretches upwards of fifty miles along. the romantic 
 and woody banks of those rivers. Their borders are cul- 
 tivated to the breadth of nearly a mile ; all the back 
 country remaining in a great measure in its original 
 state — a vast natural pasture, covered for tlie greater 
 part of the year with cattle, and furnishing the colonists 
 with a sufficient quantity of hay for the support of their 
 herds during the winter. Horses, horned cattle, hogs, 
 and poultry, are exceedingly numerous. Sheep liave been 
 brought at great expense by the Company, from England 
 
OUEGOX TERUITORV. S3 
 
 and the United States, and are reared with success. 
 Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, turnips, and most of the 
 culinary vegetables, thrive well. Pumpkins, melons, and 
 cucumbers arrive at maturity in the open air, in the 
 favourable season. The cultivation of maize, peas, and 
 beans promises success. Hops grow luxuriantly. Flax 
 and hemp, which have been introduced, show every 
 appearance, in progress of time, of being made profitable 
 crops. In fine, this extraordinary colony, in so high a 
 latitude, is likely to be rendered productive in all the 
 necessaries and comforts even, and many of the luxuries 
 of civilized Europe. 
 
 The most common sorts of wood are oak, poplar, elm, 
 and maple ; pines are likewise found towards Lake Win- 
 nipeg. On this lake two-decked vessels ply, in summer, 
 between the colony and the entrepot at Norway House, 
 which is situated at its northern extremity, where the 
 river navigation to Hudson's Bay commences, as tiie 
 lake is emptied into that bay by the Nelson River. Fire- 
 wood is rafted down the rivers, from above the limits of 
 the colony, during the summer, or transported on sledges 
 during the snow and frost. But to obviate all chance of 
 a scarcity in the supply of this article, the colonists are 
 providing themselves with cast-iron stoves, which occa- 
 sion a much less consumption of fuel. As the population 
 is chiefly Catliolic, and as the colony is, at present, the 
 most suitable centre from wliich to spread the blessings 
 of religion and civilization over that immense tract of 
 country, a Roman Catholic bishop has been stationed 
 there. The two principal churches — the Protestant and 
 the Roman Catholic — the jail, the Company's chief 
 buildings, the bishop's residence, and the houses of some 
 retired officers of the fur trade — who choose this as their 
 lasting home, in place of returning to their native country 
 — are built of stone. The generality of settlers live in 
 frame or log houses, roofed with wooden slabs, bark, or 
 shingles ; and are for the most part whitewashed or painted, 
 5* 
 
54 OREGON TERraTORY. 
 
 externally. Every man, however low his condition, pos- 
 sesses a horse ; and they vie with each other in gay cur- 
 ricles, harness, saddles, and fine clothes. A great abun- 
 dance of English goods is imported, both by the Company 
 and by individuals, in the Company's annual ships, to 
 York Factor}'', at Hudson's Bay, and disposed of in the 
 colony at moderate prices. Labour is dear, and produce 
 of every kind sells at a higher price than could be ex- 
 pected in a place so remote and secluded. Domestic 
 manufactures are beginning to make way, and, by dimi- 
 nishing the annual orders from England, to make the 
 people more independent. They now manufacture coarse 
 cloths, stuffs, shav>ds, linen, sacking, leather. Sec. ; and 
 even for their grain and domestic cattle, they are begin- 
 ning to find a market among tlic Americans of the level 
 plains leading to the Mississippi and the St. Peter's ; 
 and it is probable that before long they will export hides, 
 tallow, wool, hemp, and flax to England. 
 
 The currency of the place consists of the Company's 
 notes, with a smaller amount of silver and copper coin. 
 There are fifteen wind and three water mills, to grind 
 the wheat and prepare the malt for the inhabitants, who 
 use neither barley nor oats in bread. Though tlie Pro- 
 testants constitute but two-fifths of the population, yet 
 all these mills are in their hands, except two, which have 
 been erected by a Roman Catholic, in the Companj^'s pay, 
 as warden of the plains. It may be remarked that, while 
 many of the children of the Company's retired European 
 servants, who are chiefly Orkneymen, by native women, 
 inherit the plodding and careful disposition of their 
 fathers, the half-bred descendants of the French Canadians 
 are generally characterized by their fathers' levity and 
 extravagance, and their mothers' violent passions. Many 
 of the Scotch, who first planted the colony in 1812, under 
 the auspices of the Earl of Selkirk, hav-e amassed liand- 
 gome sums of money, besides rearing large families in 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 55 
 
 rustic plenty. Some, fearinof the consequences of inter- 
 marrying with the half breeds, have migrated elsewhere. 
 
 The Company, besides extensive purchases of grain 
 and provision for their transport and other service, an- 
 nually expends large sums at Red River for works of 
 pubhc utiUty, such as experimental farming — the erec- 
 tion of churches, and other buildings — endowing schools 
 — affording medical aid gratis to the poor — encouraging 
 domestic manufactures — maintaining an armed police — 
 dispensing justice, and in contributing to the support of 
 two Protestant clergymen, of a Roman Catholic bishop, 
 and three priests from Canada. Through the exertions 
 of these zealous ministers a great number of the Indians, 
 of the Cree and Salteaux or Chippeway nations, have 
 been converted and located. From this heavy outlay the 
 Company has hitherto had no return ; for the occasional 
 sale of lands has not as yet defrayed the expenses of the 
 survey, (they being, in most instances, bestowed gratis, 
 though purchased from the Indians), and the immediate 
 neighbourhood has been stripped of the fur-bearing ani- 
 mals. Yet, under the Company's fostering care, a popu- 
 lation of five thousand persons has been reared up in 
 plenty, comfort, and civilization ; and the colony is every 
 day growing in numbers, wealth, and importance. Tliere 
 are also excellent boarding-schools established by the 
 Rev. Mr. Jones, where nearly one hundred youth of both 
 sexes, the children of the Company's officers, and the 
 more respectable settlers, are trained up in European ac- 
 complishments, and in the strictest principles of religion. 
 
 The Indian settlements, too, at the lower extremity of 
 the colony, founded by the Rev. Mr. Cockrau, are worthy 
 of notice. He has provided school-masters for the native 
 children, and built places of worship, where he regularly 
 officiates. He has also constructed a windmill for the 
 Indians — assists them in erecting their wooden houses ; 
 and in every way sets them the example of industry. At 
 the other extremity of the colony, Mr. Balcour, one o? the 
 
56 OREGOX TERRITORY. 
 
 Roman Catholic priests, conducts a location of Salteaux 
 Indians on a smaller scale. The colony has also a semi- 
 nary, from winch home missionaries — young' Indians edu- 
 cated in the Church Missionary Society's school — are 
 to be sent to instruct their countrymen in various parts 
 of the Company's almost unbounded territories. In the 
 countries of the Columbia and New Caledonia, to the 
 westward of the great Rocky Mountain chain, these mis- 
 sionary labours will have a rich field. Tliere the climate 
 is softened by the influences of the Pacific : food is abun- 
 dant ; the numerous natives do not lead the same solitary 
 wandering and precarious lives as the northeastern 
 tribes, but dwell together in villages. They are endowed 
 with a greater capacity and quickness of apprehension; 
 are men pliant and tractable in temper ; appreciate more 
 the talents, attainments, and social arts of the white men; 
 and are fonder of imitating and adopting their customs 
 and principles. Therefore they seem now more disposed 
 to embrace the doctrines of Christianity, to many prin- 
 ciples of which their own belief approximates, from 
 those on whom, a few years ago, they committed the 
 most barbarous murders. 
 
 But in the dreary regions of the north, where the In- 
 dian hunters are scattered through interminable forests ; 
 and where civilization can but slowly, if ever, penetrate, 
 the prospects of their conversion are fainter and more 
 remote. Yet even among these, since the coalition of the 
 rival companies, and the dismissal of the numerous 
 swarms of adventurers, who, encouraged by the license 
 of fierce opposition, overran and nearly ruined the coun- 
 try, morality, order, and integrity have been, in some de- 
 gree, introduced through the agency of the Company's 
 officers. Referring to the improved condition of the In- 
 dians, produced through the instrumentality of the Com- 
 pany, Mr. Simpson observes, " no stronger proof of the 
 salutary effect of their injunctions can be adduced than 
 that, while peace and decorum mark the general conduct 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 57 
 
 of the northern tribes, bloodshed, rapine, and unbridled 
 lust, are the characteristics of the fierce hordes of Assina. 
 boines, Piegans, Black feet, Circees, Fall, and Blood In- 
 dians, who inhabit the plains between the Saskatchewan 
 and the ^Missouri rivers, and which are without the pale 
 of the Company's influence and authority." 
 
 Among the many advantages which the Company is 
 labouring to bestow on the whole race of Indians, one of 
 the most important is the cementing of fraternal and 
 pacific feelings between them, and the reconciliation of 
 their inveterate feuds. Formerly it was the vile and per- 
 nicious practice of rival traders to foment the discords of 
 the several tribes, with a view of reaping advantage from 
 them ; for they often succeeded, by weakening one after 
 the other, in reducing both to entire submissiveness to 
 their purposes ; and they could then dictate the terms of 
 trading with them as they pleased : or if they could not 
 use them in this way, they used them as instruments to 
 annoy their competitors, by crippling their trade, and 
 raising up enemies against them. Thus the natives, in 
 the complex and ramified system of commercial competi- 
 tion for a long time carried on in the northwest, were 
 committed against the traders, and became involved in 
 hostility with one another. This hostility acquiring 
 strength and inveteracy with each succeeding act of ag- 
 gression and retaliation, outlived the original cause ; and 
 often lasted for generations after the first instigators 
 quitted the scene, and ceased to feel the remotest interest 
 in the progress and consequences of their own misdoing. 
 Their maxim seemed to be — 
 
 " Mischief, thou art afoot ; 
 
 Take now v.7hatever course thou wilt." 
 
 But all the exertions of the Hudson's Bay Company to 
 check and extinguish these evils are, to some extent, 
 thwarted by the conduct of the United States' traders, 
 
56 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 vvho labour to keep alive all the vices of tlie old Canadian 
 system, and to introduce, with all their characteristic 
 graspingness and perseverance, new ones. They con- 
 sider that every artifice is legitimate in trade ; and in 
 place of blushing at its infamy, they chuckle at its clever- 
 ness. The Company has endeavoured to reconcile the 
 hostile tribes to each other, — to induce them to spare the 
 young of the fur-bearing animals, so as to preserve the 
 breed, and keep the trade alive for the benefit of both 
 parties in perpetuity ; and to discountenance the use of 
 ardent spirits, which have been so baneful to the natives. 
 But the Americans, for the sake of effecting an imme- 
 diate and temporary gain, pursue generally the very op- 
 posite course. 
 
 At Red River the buffaloes are now seldom taken in 
 pounds. Here it may be observed, that to a stranger the 
 wild buffalo bull, with his large hump, glaring eyes, 
 fierce aspect, and long beard, that almost sweeps the 
 ground, when encountered in the recesses of the forest, 
 or in the open plain, v.'here there is no chance of escape, 
 is the most formidable animal in America — far more so 
 than the panther, or grisly bear. In the summer and 
 autumn large parties of the half-breed hunters, all mount- 
 ed on their small Indian horses, which are well broken 
 in to tliis sport, scatter themselves over the plains, camp- 
 ing generally in the open air, or in tents covered with 
 hides; or under their provision carts. As soon as the 
 buffaloes are perceived, the young men gallop after them, 
 and cither partially surprise them on the plains, or suc- 
 ceed in driving them into some little valley or neck of 
 land, projecting into a lake, where escape is difficult. A 
 running fire tlicn opens all along the line. At the first 
 volley the buffaloes scamper off. The hunters continue 
 the pursuit, reloading their guns wliile their horses are in 
 full gallop ; for the sake of expedition the bullets are car- 
 ried in the mouth, and dropped into the barrel without 
 any wadding : their small whips are attaclied by a band 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 59 
 
 to the rig^ht wrist. The horse, with wonderful sagacity, 
 follows of liis own accord the animal which his rider has 
 singled out, and brings him alongside ; and the rider then 
 discharges his weapon unerringly. The horse then pur. 
 sues another with similar success. In this way many 
 buffaloes in succession arc shot by the same hunter ; and 
 hundreds fall in a single race. No sight can be livelier 
 than a camp of successful hunters. They generally pitch 
 in some clump or point of woods : the provision carts 
 form the outer circle, to which the horses are tied ; within 
 this fires blaze on every side. The men smoke their 
 pipes, or arrange their fire-arms ; while the women are 
 employed in cooking a sumptuous repast. The jest and 
 the laugh circulate freely all around. During the time 
 the men are employed in hunting, the females are occu- 
 pied in drying the spare meat, or converting it into 
 pemican. 
 
 Pemican. — This far-famed provender for man in the 
 wilds of northern America is formed by pounding the 
 choice parts of the meat very small, dried over a slow 
 fire, or in the frost, and putting it into bags made of the 
 skin of the slain animal ; into which a proportion of 
 melted fat is then poured. The whole then being strongly 
 compressed, and sewed up, constitutes the best and most 
 portable food for the voyageurs, and one which, with 
 proper care, will keep for a long time. Fifty pounds of 
 pounded meat, and forty pounds of grease, make a bag of 
 pemican. There is another kind, called the sweet pemi- 
 can, of which berries constitute the chief ingredient. 
 
 In the winter season, this sport assumes a more various 
 character. When the snow is not deep, the buffalo may 
 be run on horseback as in summer: indeed, if the herd be 
 numerous, they beat such a track with their broad hoofs, 
 that they are easily pursued. At other times they are 
 approached by the hunter crawling on the snow. He 
 walks up within a certain distance, far enough not to 
 alarm the herd — then prostrates himself on the snow — 
 
60 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 drags liimself along on his belly, with his gun trailing 
 after him ; and in this way proceeds a long distance 
 before he can get within reach when the buffaloes are 
 shy. When fatigued with this laborious and unnatural 
 motion, he stops for a time to recruit himself; he then 
 throws up a little heap of snow before him to screen him 
 from his prey. Some of the hunters are said to be so 
 dexterous in this mode of approach, as actually to drive 
 aside the old bulls who form the outer guard of the herd, 
 in order to select the choicest of the cows. In order to 
 effect this object, he wears the disguise of a close dun- 
 coloured cap, furnished with upright ears, to give him 
 the appearance of a wolf: for from constant association, 
 that animal is regarded by the buffalo without dread. In 
 the spring of the year, when there is a hard crust on the 
 snow, produced by alternate thaw and frost, the buffa- 
 loes are frequently run down by the hunters, and stabbed 
 with their daggers, while floundering in the deep drifts, 
 which yield to their weight, but support their pursuers, 
 who are borne up by their snow-shoes. In this way, 
 which is the easiest and safest of all, the animals fall a 
 prey even to the boys and women. 
 
 It is v/ell worth while to insert here tlie following 
 sketch of the northern Indians, from Mr. Simpson : — 
 
 " No people so soon get tired of any particular diet as 
 Indians : and their longings for change, even amidst the 
 best cheer, are often truly ridiculous. The flexibility of 
 their stomachs is no less surprising. At one time they 
 will gorge themselves with food, and are then prepared to 
 go without any for several days, if necessary. Enter 
 their tents ; sit there, if you can, for a whole day, and 
 not for an instant will you find the fire unoccupied by 
 persons of all ages cooking. When not hunting or tra- 
 velling, they are, in fact, always eating. Now, it is a 
 little roast, a partridge or rabbit perhaps ; now, a tid-bit 
 broiled under the ashes ; anon, a portly kettle, well filled 
 with venison, swings over the fire ; tlien comes a choice 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 61 
 
 dish of curdled blood, followed by the sinews and marrow- 
 bones of deer's legs singed on the embers. And so the 
 grand business of life goes unceasingly round, inter- 
 rupted only by sleep. Another physical singularity of the 
 northern tribes is, that though capable of resisting with 
 great fortitude the most intense cold, they are wonder- 
 fully fond of fire. At an establishment, even when the 
 weather is mild and pleasant out of doors, they are to be 
 seen heaping on fuel in the house, and actually sitting 
 cross-legged on the hearth, where a white man would 
 speedily be roasted. I have, however, remarked that the 
 invariable effect of North American climate is to render 
 even Europeans more chilly than on their first arrival ; 
 from which we must infer that there is something debili- 
 tating in the climate or mode of life. It is a general rule 
 among the traders, not to believe the first story of an 
 Indian. He will tell you on arriving that there are no 
 deer, and afterwards acknowledge them to be numerous ; 
 that he has been starving, when he has been living in 
 abundance ; that certain individuals are dead, yet after 
 he has smoked his pipe, and eaten his fill, ask him what 
 is the matter with these same persons, and he will de- 
 scribe some trifling ailments, a surfeit, perhaps ; for 
 though at times these people endure with great fortitude, 
 the least sickness makes them say, ' I am going to die I' 
 — a trait that also extends to their half-breed descen- 
 dants." 
 
 Much has been written about the origin of the popula- 
 tion of North Am.erica. The general opinion seems to 
 incline to the theory, that they came from Asia. It doen 
 not come within the scope of my present purpose to enter 
 on this inquiry, even were I competent to the task ; but I 
 ma}' state what has been the most probable result of phi- 
 losophical inquiry, and already mentioned by others. 
 
 The tribes who possess the vast region to the north- 
 ward of a line drawn from Churchill on Hudson's Bay, 
 across the Rocky Mountains to New Caledonia and the 
 & 
 
bSa OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 Pacific, comprehending the Chipewyans ; the Copper In- 
 dians ; the Beaver Indians, of Peace River ; the Dog-ribs, 
 and Hare Indians, of M'Kenzie River, and Great Bear 
 Lal^e ; the Thoecanies, Nahanies, and Dahadinuchs, of 
 the mountains ; and the Carriers, of New Caledonia, all 
 speak different dialects of the same original tongue. 
 Next to these succeed the Crees, speaking another dis- 
 tinct language, and occupying another great section of 
 the continent, extending from lesser Slave Lake through 
 the woody country on the north side of the Saskatchewan 
 River, by Lake Winnipeg to York Factory, and from 
 thence round the shores of Hudson and James Bays. 
 South of the fiftieth parallel, the circles of affinity con- 
 tract, but can still be easily traced. The Carriers of 
 New Caledonia, like the people of Hindostan, used, till 
 lately, to burn their dead — a ceremony in which the 
 widow of the deceased, though not sacrificed as in the 
 latter country, was obliged to continue beating on the 
 breast of the corpse, while it slowly consumed on the fu- 
 neral pile ; in which cruel duty she was often severely 
 scorched. Instead of being burned, she was obliged to 
 serve, as a slave, the relatives of her deceased husband 
 for a series of years, during which she wore around her 
 neck a small bag, containing part of the bones or ashes 
 of her former husband. At the end of the allotted term, 
 a feast was made, and she was declared at liberty to 
 cast off the symbols of her widowhood, and wed again. 
 These customs have been abolished by the Hudson's Bay 
 Company. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY, 63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Remarks on the Company's present principles of dealing; and 
 the mode of traffic among many of the northern tribes. 
 
 The principle universally acted on throughout the 
 Company's territories, which have been now reduced, 
 considering their vast extent, and the many difficulties to 
 be encountered, to a state of astonishing quiet, peace, 
 and good government, is, that the true interests of the 
 native Indian and the white resident are indissolubly 
 united ; and that no immediate advantage, or prospect 
 of it, is to stand in the way of improving the condition 
 of the natives. 
 
 The following extract from the standing orders of the 
 Company, will convey an idea — though a faint one — of 
 the wise, humane, and liberal spirit by which it is 
 actuated. 
 
 "That the Indians be treated with kindness and in- 
 dulgence ; and mild and conciliatory means resorted to, 
 in order to encourage industry, repress vice, and inculcate 
 moralit}^ — that the use of spirituous liquors be gradually 
 discontinued in the few districts in which it is yet indis- 
 pensable ; and that the Indians be liberally supplied with 
 requisite necessaries — particularly with articles of ammu- 
 nition, whether they have the means of paying for them, 
 or not." 
 
 Since these general orders were issued, the Company, 
 finding the success of this humane and judicious policy 
 gradually answering the proposed aim, has at last adopted 
 the bold and decisive course of abolishing altogether the 
 use of spirituous liquors as articles of trade with the 
 
64 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 natives. They have not only done tliis in tlie territories 
 within their own jurisdiction ; but have, by a new article 
 introduced into the treaty of commerce, entered into with 
 the Russians by Sir George Simpson, stipulated that the 
 Russians should act, in their trading with the natives, on 
 the same principle. So that henceforward one source of 
 demoralization will be dried up. 
 
 It is not only the inclination of the Company to render 
 the natives comfortable, and pacific, and civilized, but it 
 is their manifest interest. The natives are best able to 
 exert themselves in collecting furs and provisions, when 
 they are best clothed, and supplied with ammunition ; 
 and they are best qualified to exert their individual and 
 united powers for the prosecution of their trade, on which 
 their own immediate and ultimate good depends, when 
 they are brought to a state of peace with each other, and 
 their savage passions and appetites checked. So far has 
 it been the wish or policy of the Company not to acquire 
 an undue influence over them by loading them with 
 debts, that repeated attempts have been made to reduce 
 the trade to simple barter ; and they have often cancelled 
 the debts of whole tribes — for instance, since the junction 
 of the two companies in 1821, the debts of the Chipe- 
 wyans have been twice cancelled. But from the peculiar 
 disposition and customs of the Indians — especially the 
 northern Indians — these good intentions have not yet 
 produced all the hoped-for good, although they are gra- 
 dually working out their object. 
 
 The Chipewyans have a custom which, until eradi- 
 cated, must operate as a check on their progressive 
 prosperity. On the death of a relative, tiiey destroy 
 guns, ammunition, blankets, kettles ; in short every thing 
 they possess ; and conclude the havoc by tearing their 
 huts to pieces. When these transports of grief have 
 subsided, they find themselves reduced to utter want, 
 and are obliged to resort to the nearest establishments 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 65 
 
 for a fresh supply of necessaries ; and thus their debts 
 are renewed, and their wants periodically kept alive. 
 
 In some parts of the Indian territory, the hunting: 
 grounds descend by inheritance among the natives ; and 
 this right of property is rigidly enforced. But where no- 
 such salutary law prevails, their main source of wealth — 
 the beaver — would soon be exhausted by the eager search 
 of the hunters, if the Company had not adopted judicious 
 regulations to prevent the havoc ; for they have, for 
 several years past, used every effort, through their officers, 
 to exhort the natives to spare the young of that animal. 
 This praiseworthy design has been successful in propor- 
 tion as the natives have become enlightened, and enabled 
 to see their own ti'ue interests; and the breed is now 
 preserved in districts where, not long since, they were 
 threatened with extinction. But the attempt will be 
 easily understood to be one of extreme difficulty, in 
 consequence of the passion for depriving the animal 
 creation of life so strongly implanted in the breast of the 
 North American Indian, that it costs him a pang to pass 
 bird, beast, or fish, without an effiDrt to destroy it, whether 
 he stands in need of it or not. The tendency to destruc- 
 tiveness is a vehement instinct of their nature. 
 
 Near York Factory, in 1831, this propensity, contrary 
 to all the remonstrances of the Company's servants at 
 that place, led to the indiscriminate destruction of a 
 countless herd of reindeer, while crossing the broad 
 stream of Haye's River, in the height of summer. The 
 natives took some of the meat for present use, but thou- 
 sands of carcasses were abandoned to the current, and 
 infected the river's banks, or drifted down into Hudson's 
 Bay, there to feed the sea-fowls and polar bears. As if 
 it were a judgment for this wanton slaughter, in which 
 women and children participated, the deer have never 
 since visited that part of the country in similar numbers. 
 In short, the Indians, accustomed either to a feast or a 
 fast, have little idea beyond the present gratification; 
 6* 
 
66 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 and it is to this imprudence that deaths by starvation, 
 and the occasional desertion of infants, and the helpless 
 aged, must be ascribed. 
 
 The quantity of provisions furnished by the Indians to 
 the establishments throughout the northern districts, is 
 inconsiderable. In the winter season, it is limited to the 
 rib pieces of the moose, red, and reindeer, half dried in 
 the smoke of their huts or tents, (the bones being removed 
 for lightness of carriage,) with an occasional addition of 
 some tongues. In the course of the summer, when the 
 animals are easily hunted, and there is great facility of 
 water-transport, the more industrious families usually 
 bring to the fort a bale of dried meat, consisting of the 
 fleshy parts of the deer, cut into large slices and dried in 
 the sun, with a bladder or two containing fat, or a bag of 
 pemican. 
 
 When the residents of a fort find these supplies, and 
 the produce of their fisheries, and of their cultivated plots 
 of groimd (where the gromid, from the nature of the soil 
 and climate, is capable of cultivation), insufficient to 
 supply their wants, they engage two or more young 
 Indians, without families, as "fort hunters." These are 
 considered as regular servants ; and their duty is confined 
 to the killing of large animals for the use of the establish, 
 ments. They are allowed to keep a j>ortion of the meat, 
 sufficient for their own consumption : the remainder is 
 transported to the forts, wath sledges and dogs, by the 
 servants of the Company. 
 
 To become a fort hunter is an object of ambition to 
 the northern Indian, as it is an acknowledgment of his 
 skill and fidelity, and insures to him the gayest clothing. 
 Every prudent manager of a post endeavours to procure 
 more provisions than the actual wants of his cliarge 
 require. He is thus enabled, from his supplies, to afford 
 the natives timely relief, and to conciliate their good- 
 will, and point out to them the expediency of forethought 
 and economy. These remarks do not apply to the com- 
 
OREGON TEURITORY. 6t 
 
 paratively mild climate of the Saskatchewan, where the 
 plains teem with buffaloes ; nor to the still more southerly 
 districts, bordering on Canada, where the natives and 
 the people are in a great measure fed on provisions 
 imported by the Company. 
 
 CHAPTER VIJI. 
 
 The Knisteneaux Indians. 
 
 These people, from whom are sprung many tribes, 
 under different names, are spread over a vast extent of 
 country. Their language is the same as that of the people 
 who inhabit the coast of British America on the Atlantic, 
 and continues along the coast of Labrador, and the gulf 
 and banks of the St. Lawrence to Montreal. The line 
 then follows the Utawns River to its source, and con- 
 tinues thence nearly west along the high lands that 
 divide the waters that flow into Lake Superior on the 
 one hand, and Hudson's Bay on the other. It then 
 proceeds till it strikes the middle part of Lake Winnipeg, 
 and right through it, to the discharge of the Saskatchewan 
 into it. From thence it accompanies the latter to Fort 
 George, when the line, striking by the head of the Beaver 
 River to the Elk River, runs along its banks to its dis- 
 charge into the Lake of the Hills, from which it may be 
 carried back, east, to Isle a la Crosse, and so on to 
 Churchill by the Missinippi. 
 
 The whole of the tract between this line and Hudson's 
 Bay and Straits (except that of the Esquimaux in the 
 latter) may be said to be exclusively the country of the 
 Knisteneaux. Some of them, indeed, have penetrated 
 further, west and south, to the Red River, and the south 
 branch of the Saskatchewan. The similarity between 
 
08 I OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 their language and that of the Algonquins is clear proof 
 that they are of the same stock. 
 
 They are of moderate stature, well proportioned, and 
 very active. Examples of deformity are seldom to be 
 seen among them. Their complexion is copper colour, 
 and their hair black, which is common to all the natives 
 of America : it is generally cut in various forms, accord- 
 ing to the fancy of tlie several tribes ; but by some it is 
 left in the long, lank flow of nature. They mostly ex- 
 tract their beard ; and both sexes manifest a disposition 
 to pluck the hair from every part of the body and limbs. 
 Their eyes are black and piercing : their countenances 
 open and agreeable ; and it is a principal object of their 
 ambition to give every possible decoration to their per- 
 sons. For this purpose vermilion is a material article, 
 which they contrast with their native white, blue, and 
 brown earths, with a frequent addition of charcoal. 
 
 " Of all the natives," says M'Kenzie, " which I have 
 seen on this continent, the Knisteneaux women are the 
 most comely ; their figure is well proportioned, and the 
 regularity of their features would be acknowledged by 
 the most civilized Europeans. Their complexion, too, is 
 less dark than that of the less cleanly natives." 
 
 The dress of the males is simple and commodious. It 
 consists of gloves, shoes, and tight leggins, reaching 
 nearly to the hip — a strip of cloth or leather, called as- 
 sian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are 
 drawn inwards, and hang behind and before, over a belt, 
 which fastens it round the waist, — a close vest or shirt, 
 reaching down to the former garment, and cinctured mth 
 a broad strip of parchment, fastened with thongs behind; 
 and a cap for the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or 
 small skin, with the hairy tail suspended as an ornament : 
 over the whole a kind of robe is occasionally thrown. 
 The materials vary according to the season ; and consist 
 of dressed moose skin, — beaver, prepared with the fur on, 
 or European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 69 
 
 and fancifully worked, in some parts, with porcupines' 
 quills and moose-deer hair ; the shirt and leggins are also 
 adorned with fringe and tassels ; the shoes and gloves 
 are also decorated witli taste and skill. Their dress is, 
 however, put on according to fancy or convenience ; and 
 they will sometimes proceed to the chase covered only 
 with the slightest of them. Their head-dresses arc com- 
 posed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle, and other 
 birds. They also use tiie teeth, claws, and horns of dif. 
 ferent animals, wherewith to ornament the head and neck. 
 Their hair, however worn, is always besmeared with 
 grease. All the articles of dress are made by the fe- 
 males, who bestow peculiar pains on the decoration of 
 the men, whose faces are also painted with more care 
 than those of the women. 
 
 The female dress is composed of the same materials 
 as that of the men ; but of a different arrangement and 
 make. Their shoes are commonly plain, and their leg- 
 gins gartered below the knee. The vest falls down to 
 the middle of the leg, and is fastened round the shoulders 
 with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight 
 inches before and behind, and neatly ornamented with 
 quill-work and fringe ; the bottom is also fringed, and 
 fancifully painted as high as the knee. As it is very 
 loose, it is fastened round the waist with a stiff belt, de- 
 corated with tassels, and tied behind. The arms are 
 covered to the wrist with detached sleeves, which are 
 sowed as far as the bend of the arm ; from thence they 
 are drawn up to the back, and the corners of them fall 
 down behind as far as the waist. The cap, when they 
 wear one, consists of leather or cloth, sowed at one end, 
 by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging 
 down the back, is fastened to the waist belt, and is also 
 tied under the chin. They also have an upper robe like 
 that of the men. Their hair is divided on the crown, 
 and tied beliind, or fastened in large knots under the ears. 
 They are fond of European articles ; and, like other sa.- 
 
70 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 vages, wear bracelets, rings, and other baubles. Some- 
 times they tattoo three perpendicular lines — one from the 
 centre of the chin to the centre of the under lip, and one 
 parallel on each side to the corner of the mouth. 
 
 Chastity is not considered a virtue among them. Plu- 
 rality of wives is allowed, and so is an interchange of 
 wives ; but if a w^ife commit an indiscretion without the 
 consent of the husband, she is liable to severe punishment, 
 such as the loss of her hair, nose, or ornaments. When 
 a young man marries he resides with his wife's parents, 
 who, however, treat him as a stranger, till the birth of his 
 first cliild ; he then attaches himself to them more than 
 to his own parents, and the wife always calls him by the 
 title of father of her child. When a man loses his wife, 
 it is considered his duty to marry her sister : or he may 
 have several sisters together. They are, generally, hos- 
 pitable, generous, and mild, except when inflamed by spi- 
 rituous liquors ; and are indulgent and attentive to their 
 children. 
 
 The occupation of the men is war and hunting only. 
 The women make the nets ; dress the skins ; collect the 
 wood ; erect the tents ; and perform all the domestic 
 work ; and attend to the children. Hence their life is 
 one of great toil ; and, from a consciousness of this, they 
 sometimes destroy their female children, and procure 
 abortions, which they effect by means of certain simples, 
 and without risk of life to themselves. 
 
 Their funeral rites begin, like all their other ceremo- 
 nials, with smoking, and end with a feast. The body is 
 dressed in the best habiliments of the deceased, or of his 
 relations ; and is deposited in a grave, lined with 
 branches ; some domestic utensils are placed in it, and a 
 canopy erected over it. During this ceremony great la- 
 mentations are made ; and, if the deceased be much re- 
 spected, his relations cut off their hair, and pierce the 
 fleshy parts of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, 
 &c. ; and blacken their faces with charcoal. In some 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 71 
 
 instances the women used to sacrifice themselves to the 
 manes of their husbands. The whole of the property of 
 the deceased is destroyed ; and when the relations give 
 up their garments they are willing to take any rags to 
 cover their nakedness. This imprudent custom tends to 
 keep them in poverty, and compels them often to resort 
 to the bounty of the Hudson's Bay Company. At tlie 
 funeral feast eulogies are pronounced on the deceased ; 
 and on his tomb are carved the symbols of his tribe, 
 which are taken from the different animals of the coun- 
 try ; and also, if he had in any way distinguished him- 
 self, memorials of his own deeds. 
 
 Before they engage in Av^ar the chief summons the 
 warriors to a council, for which they prepare themselves 
 by long meditations and fasting. When they have as- 
 sembled, the chief formally explains the subject; and, if 
 they agree to take up arms, they smoke with him the 
 sacred pipe ; and this is considered a sufficient enrolment. 
 Every one who attends the meeting brings with him 
 something as an offering to the Spirit ; and when the 
 assembly dissolves, these offerings are suspended from 
 poles near the place of council. 
 
 They have, at stated seasons, such as the spring and 
 autumn, long and solemn ceremonies. On these occa- 
 sions, dogs, as the most useful of their domestic animals, 
 are sacrificed ; those that are very fat and milk-white are 
 preferred. The scene of these religious rites is an open 
 and elevated space on the banks of some lake or river, so 
 that all persons passing by may be attracted to the spot 
 and make their offerings. But if any one, a member of 
 the tribe or a stranger, should be in want of any article 
 displayed as an offering, he may take it, provided he 
 replaced it with some other article, though of ever such 
 inferior value. But to take any thing wantonly is gross 
 sacrilege. 
 
 There are also private feasts, attended with religious 
 ceremonies, given by individuals on many occasions, of 
 
72 OREGON' TERRITORY. 
 
 which due announcement is given. On this occasion the 
 host's lodge is completely cleared out, and decked round 
 with fresh boughs in every part. Even a new hearth is 
 made. The owner remaining in it alone, spreads out a 
 well-dressed moose-skin, neatly painted, (of late they 
 sometimes use cloth,) on which he lays out the contents 
 of his medicine or holy bag — consisting of various ar- 
 ticles ; the principal of which is a sort of household god 
 — a curiously carved image, about eight inches long. This 
 is first covered with down, over which a piece of beech- 
 bark is closely tied, and the whole enveloped in folds of 
 skins, or cloth, red and blue. This figure is an object of 
 the most pious regard. The next article is the war-cap, 
 which is decorated with the plumes of scarce birds, and 
 with beavers' and eagles' claws. Sec, and to which is 
 suspended a quill or feather for every enemy which the 
 owner has slain. Then follow other articles — the pipe and 
 tobacco ; and roots and simples esteemed for their medi- 
 cinal properties. These articles being exposed, and the 
 stem of the pipe resting on two prongs, as it must not touch 
 the ground, he calls in the person whom he means most 
 to honour — and who sits down opposite him. Then the 
 bowl of the pipe is filled, and is fixed to the stem. A 
 pair of wooden pincers is provided, to place the fire in 
 the pipe ; and a double-pointed pin to empty it of the 
 remnant of the tobacco not used. The remainder of the 
 guests are then summoned in ; and the most solemn awe 
 pervades the whole. The women are generally allowed 
 to be spectators at a distance. The assistant lights the 
 pipe, and presents it to the host, or officiating person, who 
 holds it between both his hands, and standing. He then 
 turns to the east, and draws a few whiffs, which he blows 
 to that point: he observes the same ceremony towards 
 the other quarters ; his eyes being directed upwards all the 
 time. He then holds the stem about the middle, between 
 the three first fingers of both hands, and raising it on a 
 level with his forehead, he swings it three times round, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 73 
 
 beginning- from the cast, with the course of the sun ; 
 when, after poising and pointing it in various directions, 
 he replaces it on the prongs. He next makes a speech 
 to explain his object in inviting them, and concludes with 
 an acknowledgment of past favours, and a prayer for a 
 continuance of them from the Master of Life. He then 
 sits down ; and the whole company declare their appro- 
 bation and thanks by loud and prolonged sighs. After 
 this the assistant takes vip the pipe, and holds it to the 
 mouth of the host, who, after smoking three whiffs, utters 
 a short prayer, then hands it round (taking his course 
 from east to west) to each guest, who smokes, and 
 mutters something to him on the occasion. Thus the 
 pipe is generally smoked out ; when the host, after turn- 
 ing it three or four times round his head, drops it down- 
 wards, and replaces it on the original props. After this 
 he returns the company thanks for their attendance, and 
 wishes them all happiness. 
 
 These smoking rites precede every matter of great im- 
 portance ; and sometimes they are politic. If a chief 
 wishes to sound the disposition of his people towards 
 him, or wishes to reconcile any differences between them, 
 he invites them to see his medicine (or holy) bag opened, 
 and smoke the sacred stem with him. As the ceremony 
 of smoking with the sacred stem dissipates all differences 
 and cannot be violated, no one who entertains a grudge 
 towards any of the party can smoke the pipe with him. 
 No one can avoid attending on these occasions ; but a 
 person may be excused from assisting at the ceremonies 
 by declaring that he has not undergone the necessary 
 purification : for instance, cohabitation with his wife 
 v.'ithin twenty-four hours before the ceremony, renders a 
 man unclean, and unfit to join in any part of the rite. 
 All contracts solemnized by this smoking ceremony are 
 held inviolable. 
 
 When the chief proposes a feast, he sends quills, or 
 small pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation. Every 
 7 
 
74 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 guest brings a dish and knife, and takes his place beside 
 the chief, according to age or rank. The pipe is then 
 lighted, and the chief makes an equal division of the 
 viands. While the guests are eating, the chief sings, 
 and plays with the tambourin, or the rattle. He who has 
 first eaten his portion is held in estimation. If any one 
 cannot finish his share, he off'ers a reward — such as 
 ammunition or tobacco, to some friend to eat the re- 
 mainder. But before they commence these feasts they 
 offer a small quantity of the meat and drink, as a sacri- 
 fice, by throwing it into the fire, or pouring it on the 
 earth. Generally the quantity' supplied to the guests, 
 must be eaten, however immense ; but on some occasions 
 they are allowed to take the surplus to be eaten at home. 
 Care is always taken that the bones be burned, as it 
 would be profanation if the dogs touched them. 
 
 At their public feasts they discuss various topics — 
 repeat the heroic deeds of their fathers, and encourage 
 the rising generation to follow their example ; w^hile the 
 women sing and dance around the tents, beating time to 
 the music within. 
 
 They commence their divisions of time by the night ; 
 and compute the length of their journeys by the number 
 of nights passed in performing them. They also divide 
 the year by the succession of moons. 
 
 They know the medical virtues of many herbs, roots 
 of plants, and barks of trees. When a blister rises on 
 the foot, from frost, or the chafing of the shoe, &c., they 
 open it with their flint lancet, and apply the heated blade 
 of a knife to that part ; and as the best remedy for 
 sprains, they apply the dung of an animal just killed. 
 However, much of their remedies and surgical opera- 
 tions is supposed to derive effect from mtfgic and incan- 
 tations. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 75 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 The Chipewyan Indians. 
 
 These are a numerous people, who consider the coun- 
 try between the parallels of latitude 60 and 65 north, and 
 longitude 100 and 110 west, as their home. Their Ian- 
 guage furnishes dialects to the various migratory tribes 
 who inhabit the following immense tract of country. It 
 begins at Churchill, and runs along the line of separation 
 between them and the Knisteneaux, up the Missinippi to 
 Isle k la Crosse, passing on through Buffalo Lake, River 
 Lake, and Portage k la Loche : from thence it proceeds 
 by the Elk River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes di- 
 rectly west to the Peace River, and up that river to its 
 source ; from whence it proceeds to the waters of the Co- 
 lumbia, and follows that river to latitude 52 north, and 
 longitude 122 west, where the Cliipewyans have the Chin 
 nation for their neighbours. How far they follow the 
 Rocky Mountains to the east, is not easy to determine ; 
 but they extend a long way through the prairies. 
 
 They are generally a timorous, reserved, and sober 
 race, not addicted to spirituous liquors. They will pa- 
 tiently submit to severe treatment, if conscious that they 
 deserve it; but will not submit to unnecessary rigour. 
 In their mutual quarrels they are not sanguinary or 
 savage ; generally contenting themselves with thumping, 
 pulling the hair, and calling abusive names. 
 
 Their notions about the Creation are very remarkable. 
 They believe that, at first, the globe was one vast ocean, 
 not inhabited by any living creature ; but that the Great 
 Spirit came down in the shape of a mighty bird, whose 
 
76 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning-, and the 
 clapping of whose wings was thunder. He rested on the 
 ocean, and immediately the land rose, and remained on 
 the surface of the water. This omnipotent bird then pro- 
 duced all the variety of animals from the earth, except 
 the Chipewyans, who were produced from a dog : and 
 this circumstance occasions their aversion to the flesh of 
 that animal, as well as to the people who eat it. The 
 Great Spirit having finished his work, he made an arrow, 
 which was to be preserved with great care, and remain 
 untouched ; but the Chipewyans were so devoid of under- 
 standing, as to carry it awa}'. This sacrilege so enraged 
 the great bird, that he has never since appeared. They 
 believe that there was a great deluge, which spread over 
 the whole earth, except the highest mountains ; on the 
 top of which their ancestors preserved themselves. They 
 have also a tradition among them, that they originally 
 came from a remote country, inhabited by wicked people; 
 and had traversed a great lake, which was narrow and 
 full of islands ; also, that in ancient times their ancestors 
 lived till their feet were worn out with walking, and their 
 throats with eating. 
 
 The teader cannot fail to notice the curious coinci- 
 dence between this notion of the creation and the Mosaic 
 account : " the earth was without form, and void, and 
 the Spirit of God moved on tlie surface of the waters." 
 Here I may remark, that the word which in our transla- 
 tion is rendered moved, the commentators say means, in 
 the original Hebrew, brooded, or hatched ; and Milton, 
 who in his scriptural allusions and quotations follows the 
 original, takes the word in this sense. — Paradise Lost, 
 b. vii. V. 235. Speaking of Creation, he says : — 
 
 On the watery calm 
 
 His brooding wings the Spirit of God outspread, 
 And vital virtue infused, and vital warmth, 
 Throughout the fluid mass. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 77 
 
 Their ideas about the arrow would seem to indicate tliat 
 they have a confused and corrupted notion of the tree of 
 knowledge and the forbidden fruit — the arrow being more 
 adapted to their condition than an apple. Their tradition 
 about coming originally from a remote country, inhabited 
 by wicked people, would remind one of the dispersion of 
 mankind after the erection of the tower of Babel : and 
 their ancestors having lived so long, until their feet were 
 worn out with walking, and their throats with eating, is 
 a graphic mode of describing the longevity and sensuality 
 of the antediluvians. 
 
 They believe in the immortality of the soul, and in a 
 state of future rewards and punishments. They believe 
 that immediately after death they pass into another world, 
 where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark 
 in a stone canoe ; and that a gentle current bears them 
 on to an extensive lake, in the centre of which is a most 
 beautiful island ; and that within sight of this delightful 
 abode they receive tliat judgment for their conduct during 
 life, v/hich terminates tlieir final state and unalterable 
 allotment. If their good actions are declared to predo- 
 minate, they are landed on the island, where there is to 
 be no end to their happiness ; which, however, according 
 to their notions consists chiefly in sensual pleasures. But 
 if their bad actions predominate, the stone canoe sinks at 
 once, and leaves them up to their chins in the water, to 
 behold and regret the reward enjoyed by the good ; and 
 eternally struggling, but with unavailing endeavours, to 
 reach the blissful island. 
 
 Their stature is of a moderate standard. Their com- 
 plexion is swarthy : their features are coarse, and their 
 hair lank ; and their eyes are not so generally piercing, 
 nor their countenances so animated as those of other 
 Indians. 
 
 The women have a more agreeable aspect than the 
 men ; but their gait is awkward, which proceeds from 
 their being accustomed, nine months in the year, to 
 7* 
 
78 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 travel \\4th their large snow-shoes, and drag" sledges, of a 
 weight from two to four hundred pounds. Tliey are 
 very submissive to their husbands, who sometimes, how- 
 ever, in fits of jealousy cut off their hair, of which they 
 are very proud, wearing it in fantastic tresses, or in plaits, 
 to a great length ; and treat tliem witli fatal severity be- 
 sides. Sometimes their natm-al inclinations are coerced 
 by their fathers, as is the case in more civilized life ; and 
 they are transferred for a consideration, to live as compa- 
 nions with more wealthy husbands or protectors. The 
 men in general extract their beard ; and cut the hair in 
 various forms, according to fancy, or leave it in the long 
 natural flow. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or 
 from one to four straight lines, on their cheeks or fore- 
 head, to distinguish the tribe to which they belong. 
 These marks are eitlier tattooed, or made by drawing a 
 thread, dipped in the necessary colours, across the skin. 
 
 Plurality of wives is allowed ; and the women are be- 
 trothed by their parents at an early age, according as in- 
 terest or partiality leads them : and if a separation takes 
 place, it must be with the consent of the husband. There 
 are particular skins of animals, as the bear and wolf, 
 which the women never touch, as they arc unclean 
 animals ; and these animals the men are seldom known 
 to kill. 
 
 There are no people more attentive to the comforts of 
 dress. The dress of the men, in winter, is composed of 
 deerskin, dressed as fine as chamois leather, in the hair. 
 Their shoes and leggins are sewed together ; tlie latter 
 reaching upwards to the waist, and kept firmly on by a 
 belt ; under which a piece of leatiier is dra^\m, the ends 
 of which fall down before and behind, as a covering. In 
 the shoes, they put the hair of the moose or rein-deer, 
 with additional pieces of leather, as socks. The shirt or 
 coat, which is girded round the waist, reaches to the 
 middle of the thigh ; and the mittens or gloves are sewed 
 to the sleeves, or suspended from the shoulders by strings. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 79 
 
 A ruff or tippet surrounds the neck ; and the skin of the 
 head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. Tiicn there 
 is a top garment made of several deer or fawn skins 
 sewed together. Tliis dress is worn single or double, 
 according to circumstances ; but always in winter with 
 hair both inside and outside. Thus arrayed, a Chipe- 
 wyan will lay himself down on the ice in the middle of a 
 lake, and repose in comfort ; though in the morning he 
 will sometimes find it difficult to disencumber himself 
 from the snow drifted on him during the night. If, in 
 his passage over the lake, he should be in want of provi- 
 sion, he cuts a hole in the ice, when he seldom fails in 
 taking out a trout or a pike. The eyes he instantly 
 takes out, and eats as a great delicacy : and if he have 
 not an opportunity of kindling a fire, he will eat the fish 
 raw. 
 
 The dress of the women is different. Their leggins 
 are tied below the knee ; and their body dress or shift is 
 wide, and hanging down to the ankle ; and is tucked up 
 at pleasure, by means of a belt which is fastened round 
 the waist. Those who have children, have these gar- 
 ments made very full about the breast and shoulders ; as, 
 when they arc travelling, they carry their infants on their 
 backs, next the skin ; in which situation they are very 
 comfortable. They are also very curious about their 
 baby.clothes, decorating them with porcupines' quills, 
 and beads. Though they are in such a state of submis- 
 sion, yet they possess considerable influence with the 
 men ; and are generally consulted about the traffic with 
 Europeans, and other important matters. 
 
 From the ease with which they can supply their wants, 
 in taking deer and fish, they are not remarkable for their 
 activity as hunters : hence they participate in those labo- 
 rious and domestic occupations that, among the Knistc- 
 neaux, and other neighbouring nations, are confined to 
 the women. Though the}'^ make war on the Esquimaux, 
 (who cannot resist their superior numbers,) and put them 
 
80 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 to death — as it is a principle of theirs not to make pri- 
 soners — yet they submit to the Knisteneaux, who are not 
 so numerous as themselves. They are not so reserved in 
 tlieir communications among themselves, or Avith stran- 
 gers ; nor are they suddenly roused from torpor to such 
 energy and passion as the Knisteneaux. They are more 
 uniform, calculating, and persevering than these people. 
 
 They catch the beaver in nets, as he endeavours to 
 escape from his lodge, when it is broken open. These 
 nets are curiously set for the purpose ; and a man is em. 
 ployed to watch the moment when the animal enters the 
 snare, else he would soon cut his way through it : he is 
 then thrown on the ice, where he remains, as if lifeless. 
 
 Their snow-shoes are of superior workmanship. The 
 inner part of their frame is straight ; the outer one is 
 curved, and is pointed at both ends, the front end being 
 turned up. They are also very neatly laced with deer- 
 skin thongs. Tlieir sledges are also formed of thin slips 
 of boards turned up in front ; and are highly polished, 
 with crooked knives, in order to make them slide along 
 with greater facility. Close-grained wood is, on that ac- 
 count, the best : but theirs are made of the red, or swamp, 
 spruce fir tree. 
 
 Though they have no regular government, as every 
 man is lord of his own family, yet they have certain 
 principles of co-operation for the public benefit. Their 
 country, especially along the north, is very barren, yield- 
 ing but little wood or herbage. Its chief vegetable sub- 
 stance is the moss, on which the deer feed ; and a kind 
 of rock moss, which, in times of scarcity, when boiled in 
 water, forms a glutinous substance, and affords subsis- 
 tcnce to the natives. But though the lakes abound with 
 fisli, and the hills with deer ; and though they are con- 
 sidered among the most provident of all the Indian people 
 of the nortliern continent, they suffer severely at certain 
 seasons, especially in winter, when they are under the 
 necessity of retiring to their scanty, stunted, woods. 
 
OP.EGOX TERIIITORY. 81 
 
 To the westward of tlicm, the musk ox may be found ; 
 but they do not depend on it as an article of sustenance. 
 There are also large hares, white wolves peculiar to their 
 country, and several kinds of foxes. On the surface of 
 the earth there are found beautiful pieces of varicg-atcd 
 marble, which is easily worked, bears a tine polish, and 
 hardens with time. It endures heat, and is manufactured 
 into pipes or calumets, as they arc fond of smoking to- 
 bacco — a luxury communicated to them by Europeans. 
 
 They have no knowledge of simples, or the medicinal 
 virtues of plants ; as their country is too barren to pro- 
 duce any : but they g-eneraliy resort to charms to cure 
 their diseases ; of which rheumatism, the flux, and lues 
 venerea, are the principal. They are very superstitious ; 
 and have tlieir priests and conjurors ; but they are un- 
 willing- to make many communications on the subject of 
 their religion. They show their respect for the memory 
 of their departed friends by a long period of mourning ; 
 by cutting off their own hair ; and never making use of 
 tlie propert}'^ of the deceased : they even sacrifice their 
 own on the occasion. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Moulh of the Columbia — Description of the native tribes — 
 Their appearance — Habits. 
 
 The first object that meets the eye of a voyager as he 
 approaches the mouth of the Columbia from the Pacific, 
 is a high bluff promontory with precipitous sides, covered 
 with pine trees, and sloping to the mainland, with which 
 it is connected by a low^ and narrow neck. This is called 
 Cape Disappointment, and stands on the north of the 
 river. The entrance on the south side of the river is ter- 
 minated by a low, sandy spit of land, stretching into the 
 ocean, and called Point Adams ; but, properly speaking, 
 
82 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 for the distance of thirty or forty miles from its entrance 
 into the sea, it is an estuary, indented by deep bays, so 
 as to vary from three to seven miles in breadth. The 
 distance between the extreme outer ends of Cape Disap- 
 pointment and Point Adams is about four miles across. 
 This distance is rendered very dangerous and intricate 
 by shoals, forming- a sort of flat bar, on which the winds 
 and irregular currents produce foaming and tumultuous 
 breakers, presenting one line of heavy broken water from 
 shore to shore, which, in rough weather, runs out for 
 three miles into the ocean. But the mouth of the river 
 proper becomes narrower, in consequence of the contract- 
 ing shores of the estuary. The best leading mark for 
 entrance is to bring a projecting point, which looks at a 
 distance like an island, near the higher and northern 
 shore, to bear by compass about east by north, and then 
 to steer for it. But it is dangerous to make any attempt 
 when the breakers are high. Immediately within Cape 
 Disappointment there is a \vide open bay which yields 
 good anchorage, and is called Baker's Bay, terminating 
 at Chinook Point. 
 
 About fourteen miles from Cape Disappointment, in 
 a southeasterly direction, stands Fort George, on the 
 southern shore, and on an elevation facing the north, 
 terminating with the wide estuary — its sand-bars, and 
 breakers. It was formerly called Astoria, having been 
 founded by Mr. Astor, of whose proceedings I shall 
 speak more hereafter ; but it is now only a small outer 
 depot, belonging to the Company's head.quarters at Fort 
 Vancouver, and kept up for the convenience of the trade 
 with the Indians towards the mouth of the river; and for 
 the salmon fishery. It is now sadly stripped of much of 
 its former importance ; the immediate neighbourhood, 
 with the exception of a small garden and farm reserved 
 for the use of the small garrison stationed there, being 
 overrun with weeds and brushwood. There however 
 still exists one memorial of its former promised impor- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 83 
 
 tance — for real importance it never had, — a large tree, 
 spoken of by some writers, lying-, as a symbol of the 
 decline of American power, flat and withered on the 
 ground. 
 
 The natives, who dwell about the lower parts of the 
 Columbia, may be divided into four tribes — the Clotsops, 
 who reside around Point Adams, on tlie south side, and 
 are reputed by some the most honest — the Chinooks ; 
 Waakiacums ; and the Cathlamets ; who live on the north 
 side of the river, and around Baker's Bay and other in- 
 lets. From the great resemblance between them in 
 person, language, laws, and manners, they all appear to 
 have emanated from one common stock. Though they 
 occasionally can procure the flesh of elks, deer, and tlie 
 water-fowls of the ponds and rivers, their chief subsis- 
 tence is fish, chiefly salmon, which abounds in the river, 
 and inlets ; and roots, and berries, which the women go 
 a gipsying in groups at the proper season to collect in 
 the upper part of the country. This season is a time of 
 hilarity ; and the women bepaint their faces and persons 
 with a sort of vermilion paint, partly to protect them 
 from the sun, and partly to present a gay and fantastic 
 appearance. These roots and berries they make into 
 cakes, which they dry in the sun. These cakes, and 
 preserved fish, with an accompaniment of venison, form 
 their winter store, of which they generally have no lack. 
 
 These tribes were formerly very numerous and power- 
 ful. But they were greatly thinned by the scourge that 
 spread its havoc far and wide among the northern and 
 eastern Indians for many years — the small- pox. After 
 having enjoyed a considerable respite from this visitation, 
 and recruited their force and numbers to some extent, 
 they were again, in 1829, and some subsequent years, 
 attacked by another malady, equally fatal — fever, at- 
 tended with ague. The strong remedies which they 
 adopted for the cure of this, in opposition to all remon- 
 strance, were nearly as destructive as the malady itself. 
 
84 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 They dug a hole in the ground, five feet square, two feet 
 deep below the surface, and raised two feet and a half 
 above it. On the inside it was tightly boarded, and made 
 a sort of compact oven, with a small aperture barely suf- 
 ficient to admit the insinuation of the body. A number 
 of stones red-hot were thrown in, and the patient (some- 
 times two or three at a time) immediately after crawled 
 in ; and from a bowl poured on the burning stones a 
 quantity of water supplied from the outside, sufficient to 
 produce a high degree of steam. Having remained there 
 until he was nearly parboiled, he crept out again ; and, 
 as it was imagined that a violent counter-remedy would 
 produce a wholesome reaction, he plunged at once into 
 the cold stream, on the bank of which this hot vapour- 
 bath was constructed. 7"'he remedy generally did its in- 
 tended work ; and something more ; it cured the disease, 
 but killed the patient. 
 
 As the first visitation of the small-pox aflTected them 
 peculiarly, it may not be out of place here to say a word 
 about it. 
 
 This terrible scourge, which not only thinned this po- 
 pulation, but had nearly dispeopled the whole of the 
 northern continent of the native inhabitants, it is now 
 generally agreed, was first introduced by the Americans 
 of the United States ; and at first broke out among the 
 tribes residing between the sources of the Missouri and 
 the ^Mississippi. Thence it spread its devastation north- 
 ward as far as Athabasca, and the three horns of the 
 great Slave Lake ; and westward across the Rocky Moun- 
 tains tlirough the whole region of the Oregon territories, 
 spreading to a vast distance along the shores of the north 
 Pacific. They at first tried their medicine-men, or con- 
 jurors ; then, when their medicines and charms were 
 found unavailing, they adopted various expedients, whicli 
 were as fatal as the disease itself; such as bleeding — blis- 
 tering — steam and cold baths in quick succession. Then, 
 when tliey failed in every attempt at cure, they became 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 85 
 
 desperate, and impressed with the belief that it was a vi- 
 sitation from the Great Spirit, v.'ho surrendered them up 
 to the Evil One, as a punishment for their wicked courses. 
 The wretched sufferers were deserted, and left to rot and 
 perish, unaided and unpitied. The more hardened and 
 courageous of those who escaped the attack fled to the 
 desert-plains, or the mountains, or the islands of the 
 lakes. Others, more desponding-, committed suicide, to 
 save themselves from the horrors which they saw the suf- 
 ferers endure. The bodies of hundreds of men, women, 
 and children used to be seen, afterwards, suspended from 
 the trees, close by depopulated villages, whilst the ground 
 was strewed with putrid and mouldering remains. Num- 
 bers of tribes were totally swept away ; or reduced to a 
 few scattered and powerless individuals. The remnants 
 of many others united ; and formed a new and heteroge- 
 neous union. 
 
 Whenever a person is attacked with sickness, the medi- 
 cine-man is sent for ; he orders the patient to be placed 
 on his back, and then commences to chaunt a dismal air. 
 To this the patient's friends, who surround him, at inter- 
 vals reply in chorus ; and beat time with a long and short 
 stick, which eacli carries in his hands, striking one over 
 the other. Generally a person is stationed on the roof 
 during this proceeding, and, with a loud voice, joins the 
 chorus inside ; while he keeps time to the air by beating 
 his drum-sticks against the roof. The doctor then kneels, 
 and presses his fists with all his force on the patient's 
 stomach ; and, according as the sufferer, under the pain 
 of this operation, cries out, the doctor and the bystanders 
 raise the chaunt louder to drown his voice, and banish 
 the disease within him which is struggling to depart. 
 The doctor having, during the patient's agony, slyly in- 
 serted a small white stone into his mouth, he seizes his 
 liands which he joins together, and keeps blowing on 
 them. Thus he continues pressing and blowing until the 
 stone is forced out by the sick man's convulsive efforts. 
 8 
 
86 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 This he snatches up, and triumphantly produces to the 
 bystanders as the source of the disease, which he assures 
 them is now destroyed. The stone is sometimes enclosed 
 in a piece of cedar bark, and thrown into the fire. The 
 severe liard-pressing and pummelling- which the patient 
 is obliged to undergo necessarily produces a considerable 
 change in a short time ; and though death not unfre- 
 quently follows, yet the general potency of such a mode 
 of treatment is a matter of general belief. 
 
 But the white doctor has of late made great inroads on 
 the province of the conjuror, or medicine-man ; much of 
 whose occupation is now transferred to the dispensary or 
 the hospital of Fort Vancouver, where a single dose of 
 medicine, or a little phlebotomy, has speedily exorcised • 
 the " foul fiend" of the disease. Indeed, many of the 
 customs of these people are fast fading away in their in- 
 creasing intercourse with civilized men. 
 
 On the death of one of these people, the body was 
 formerly wrapped in skins or mats, and disposed in a 
 small canoe (now they sell the skins and use blankets) ; 
 the deceased's arms, and other articles of general use, 
 being laid beside him. The canoe is then placed on a 
 platform by the river-side, or on rocks out of the reach of 
 the tide ; and other mats tied over it. Sometimes these 
 sepulchral canoes are suspended from boughs of trees, 
 six or eight feet from the ground. The canoe in which 
 the body is placed is perforated at the bottom, for the 
 twofold purpose, of letting out the water that the rains 
 may have deposited in it, and of preventing it from ever 
 being used again by the living. When his friends can 
 afford the expense, a larger canoe, reversed, is placed 
 over the lower, to protect it from the rain ; and both are 
 firmly tied together. This is his grave. His wives, re- 
 lations, and slaves go into mourning by cutting their 
 hair ; and for some time after his death repair twice a 
 day, at sunrise, and sunset, to a neighbouring wood, to 
 chaunt his funeral dirge. Formerly, on the death of a 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 87 
 
 chief, or other person of wealth and importance, one or 
 more of his slaves (much of an Indian's importance de- 
 pending on the number of his slaves) was put to death 
 for his use in the next world. But this barbarous super- 
 stition has been abolished throug-h the interposition of 
 the Company. The present governor. Dr. M'Laughlin, 
 has for this purpose, as well as for many others in which 
 humanity, and the civilization of the natives, are con- 
 cerned, made great exertions. 
 
 The salmon season, of those tribes towards the mouth 
 of the Columbia, commences in June : and its open- 
 ing is an epoch looked forward to with much anxiety, 
 and is attended with great formality. They have a 
 public festival, and offer sacrifices. The first salmon 
 caught is a consecrated thing ; and is offered to the 
 munificent Spirit who is the giver of plenty. They have 
 a superstitious scruple about the mode of cutting salmon; 
 especially at the commencement of the season, before 
 they have an assurance of a plentiful supply. To cut it 
 crosswise, and to cast the heart into the water, they con- 
 sider most unlucky, and likely to bring on a scarce season. 
 Hence they are very reluctant to supply the traders at 
 the stations with any until the season is advanced, and 
 then they can calculate on their probable stock ; lest an 
 unlucky cross cut by the white men may mar all their 
 prospects. Their mode is to cut it along the back ; they 
 take out the back bone, and most studiously avoid throw- 
 ing the heart into the water. The heart they broil and 
 eat ; but will not eat it after sunset. So plentiful is the 
 fish, that they supply the white men with it in abundance. 
 It is now made a lucrative article of foreign trade. In- 
 deed large quantities of it are sent to the Sandwich 
 Islands, and other places. 
 
 Their canoes vary in size and form. Some are thirty 
 feet long, and about three feet deep, cut out of a single 
 tree — either fir or white cedar — and capable of carrying 
 twenty persons. They have round thwart pieces from 
 
88 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 side to side, forming a sort of binders, about three inches 
 in circumference ; and their gunwales incline outwards, 
 so as to cast off the surge ; the bow and stern being 
 decorated, sometimes, with grotesque figures of men and 
 animals. In managing their canoes, they kneel two and 
 two along the bottom, sitting on their heels, and wielding 
 paddles about five feet long ; while one sits on the stern 
 and steers, with a paddle of the same kind. The women 
 are equally expert in the management of the canoe, and 
 generally take the helm. It is surprising to see with 
 what fearless unconcern these savages venture in their 
 slight barks on the most tempestuous seas. They seem 
 to ride upon the waves like sea-fowl. Should a surge 
 throw the canoe upon one side and endanger its overturn, 
 those to windw^ard lean over the upper gunwale — thrust 
 their paddles deep into the wave — apparently catch the 
 W'ater, and force it under the canoe ; and by this action, 
 not merely regain an equilibrium, but give the vessel a 
 vigorous impulse forward. 
 
 They are rather a diminutive race, generally varying 
 in height from five feet to five feet five inches ; the women 
 being about six inches shorter. Their legs are generally 
 crooked; their ankles thick; and their feet flat — a de- 
 formity caused, no doubt, by their passing so much of 
 their time in childhood, squatting on the calves of their 
 legs and their heels, in the bottom of their canoes — a 
 favourite position, which they retain even when on shore. 
 The women increase this deformity by wearing tight 
 bandages round the lower part of their legs. The faces 
 of both sexes are round — their eyes small and sharp — 
 their noses broad, flat at the top, and thick at the end — 
 their nostrils large — their mouths wide — their lips thick 
 — their teeth short, irregular, and dirty. In addition to 
 these characteristics, the women have their ears slit — the 
 cartilages of their noses perforated — and their heads and 
 bodies saturated with salmon oil. They are inferior in 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 89 
 
 muscular power and activity to the Indians of the plains, 
 who liunt the deer and buffalo, and ride on horseback. 
 
 In their early intercourse with the whites, they were 
 but scantily clad ; the men being entirely naked in 
 summer ; but in winter wearing a small robe made of the 
 skins of animals, and reaching to the middle of the 
 thigh ; and sometimes superadding a mantle made of 
 matting, which loosely covered the shoulders. The 
 women wore a similar robe, which reached only to the 
 waist ; to which was appended a kind of petticoat, reach- 
 ing from the waist to the knee — formed of the fibres of 
 cedar bark broken into shreds, or a tissue of silk-grass, 
 twisted and knotted at the ends ; but in winter they 
 added a vest of skins. The men carefully eradicated 
 every vestige of a beard, considering it a great deformity. 
 But both sexes allowed the hair of the head, which is 
 coarse and black, and of w^hich they are very proud, to 
 grow to great length ; sometimes wearing it plaited — 
 sometimes wound round the head in fanciful tresses. 
 They had conical hats, with narrow rims, woven of bear- 
 grass, or the fibres of cedar bark ; and exhibiting, in 
 different colours, various designs — such as representa- 
 tions of canoes, men fishing, &c. They also wore or- 
 naments of bears' claws, elks' tusks, &c., as trophies of 
 hunting exploits. But an intercourse with the white 
 traders soon effected a change in the toilets of both sexes ; 
 and they now array themselves in any article of dress, 
 and use any ornament they can procure. 
 
 According to the general custom of American savages, 
 when employed in warlike expeditions, they painted their 
 bodies and faces in the most grotesque and hideous 
 manner. Their arms were bows and arrows ; spears ; 
 and war-clubs two and a half feet long, and double-edged. 
 Some wore a corslet formed of pieces of hard wood, laced 
 together with bear-grass, so as to form a light coat of 
 mail, pliant to the body ; and a light casque of cedar 
 bark, leather, or bear-grass, sufiicient to protect the head 
 8* 
 
90 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 from ail arrow or a war-club. A more complete article 
 of defensive armour was a buff jerkin or shirt, of great 
 thickness, made of doublings of elk skin, and* reaching 
 to the feet ; holes being left for the head and arms. This 
 was perfectly arrow-proof; and was, besides, often be- 
 lieved to be endowed witli charmed virtues, imparted by 
 the priests or conjurors of the tribe. It may be observed, 
 that their only offensive weapon is now the common gun. 
 
 Their ideas of religion do not differ much from those 
 of the natives of the interior. They believe in an om- 
 nipotent and benevolent Spirit, the creator of all things. 
 They represent him as assuming various shapes at plea- 
 sure ; but generally give him the accompaniment of 
 wings. Though he usually inliabits the sun, he occa- 
 sionally wings his way through the ethereal regions, and 
 sees all that is doing on earth : and thunders, tempests, 
 and lightning, are the modes in which he exhibits his 
 displeasure. To propitiate his favour, they offer to him, 
 as sacrifices, the first-fruits of their hunting and fishing. 
 They also believe in an evil spirit, who inhabits the fire, 
 who is less powerful than the first, and is occasionally 
 employed to do his services. Therefore they endeavour, 
 in all their undertakings, to propitiate him by frequent 
 offerings. 
 
 They have a belief in a future state of rewards and 
 punishments. Those who have well and faithfully dis- 
 charged all the duties of this life, will go to a mild and 
 happy region, teeming with all the comforts of existence; 
 while those who pursue an opposite course, will be con. 
 signed to a cold and dreary region, where bitter fruits 
 and salt water will form their principal means of sub- 
 sistence. They have also a tradition about the origin of 
 mankind : they believe that man was originally created 
 by the superior deity, but in an imperfect state, being 
 rather a statue of flesh than a perfect being; but a second 
 divinity, less powerful, in pity of his helpless condition, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 91 
 
 opened his eyes ; gave him motion : and taught him ail 
 the functions and the arts of life. 
 
 They have tlieir priests or conjurors, or medicine-men, 
 who are supposed to be in the confidence of the deities, 
 and the expounders of their will. Each of these has his 
 diminutive wooden idols, under some rude form of a 
 quadruped, or bird, or fish, representing the spirits of the 
 air and fire. These idols are hung round with amulets 
 and native offerings, such as beavers' teeth, bears' and 
 eagles' claws, &c 
 
 I have seen the following account in print : but it is 
 incumbent on me to say, that though I mixed very much 
 with these tribes, and was acquainted with their customs, 
 ceremoaies, and superstitions, I neither witnessed myself, 
 nor heard of, sucii a custom existing among them. 
 
 When any chief personage is dangerously ill, the priests 
 are sent for, who bring their idols. They retire into a 
 canoe, to hold a consultation, and if they do not agree as 
 to the malady, or the mode of treatment, they settle the 
 dispute by beating the idols against each other ; which- 
 ever first loses a tooth or a claw, is considered as confuted. 
 Though this mode of determining the right is not so for- 
 midable as the practice of personal combat, or treading 
 the red-hot ploughshare, once practised in Christian Eu- 
 rope, yet it is considered equally efficacious in arriving 
 at a satisfactory conviction, 
 
 I am willing to believe that such a custom did exist, 
 and was one of those which tlie growing intelligence of 
 the natives, in consequence of their intercourse with 
 civilized men, has tended to abolislL Indeed, I am the 
 more inclined to this belief^ from my knowledge of the 
 frauds still practised by these crafty conjurors on the cre- 
 dulity of the natives. I will state an example. In times 
 of pretended inspiration, and communion with the Great 
 Spirit, they seize a fleshy part of the body, about the sto- 
 mach and ribs, in one hand, and plunge a dagger right 
 through the fold, without drawing blood. TJjis act is 
 
92 OREGON TERHITORV. 
 
 taken as a proof of tlieir invuhierability — a favour grant- 
 ed by the Great Spirit. I have seen some of them thus 
 gashed all over the front of the body. While I was 
 in charge of Fort George, one of these crafty old priests 
 prepared to pcribrm this operation in my presence. He 
 grasped a handful of his flabby flesh, and drew his dag- 
 ger. But I instantly cheeked him ; as my acquiescence 
 would be tortured by him to the natives, into my belief 
 that he was under divine protection. Besides, I was re- 
 sponsible for the execution of instructions from head- 
 quarters, to discourage in every way the superstitious 
 and barbarous practices of the people, and the impostures 
 of the priests. I observed that they avoided those parts 
 where they may have a chance of striliing through an 
 artery. 
 
 There prevails a singular custom among all the tribes 
 about the lower part of the Columbia — the flattening of 
 the forehead, and compression of the whole head ; which 
 gives them a hideous appearance. Immediately after 
 birth the infant is laid in an oblong wooden trough, by 
 way of cradle, with moss under it. The end on which 
 the head reposes is raised higher than the rest. A pad- 
 ding is then placed on the infant's forehead with a piece 
 of cedar bark over it ; it is pressed down by cords, which 
 pass through holes on each side of the trough. As fhe 
 tightening of the padding, and the pressing of the head 
 to the board, is gradual, the process is said not to be at- 
 tended with much pain. 
 
 The appearance of the infant, however, while under it, 
 is shocking : its little black eyes seem ready to start from 
 their sockets — the mouth exhibits all the indications of 
 internal convulsion ; and it clearly appears that the face 
 is gradually undergoing a process of unnatural configu- 
 ration. About a year*s pressure is sufficient to produce 
 the desired effect. The head is ever after completely 
 flattened ; and the upper part of it, on the crown, seldom 
 exceeds an inch in width. This is deemed a mark of 
 
OREGON TEHRITORY. 93 
 
 beauty and distinction, like small and crippled feet among 
 the Chinese ladies of rank. 
 
 All their slaves, whom they purchase from the neigh- 
 bouring tribes, have round heads. Every child of a slave, 
 if not adopted by a member of the tribe, must be left to 
 nature, and therefore grow up with a round head. This 
 deformity is, consequently, a mark of their freedom. On 
 examining the skulls of these people several medical men 
 have declared, that nothing, short of ocular demonstra- 
 tion, could have convinced them of the possibility of 
 moulding the human head into such a form. 
 
 Though the Indians about the head-waters of the Co- 
 lumbia, and in the other regions bordering on the Rocky 
 Mountains, are called " Flat Heads," the name does not 
 result from such a characteristic deformity, for all these 
 people have round heads ; but appears to have been ori- 
 ginally given them from caprice, or from an observance 
 of some similarity in disposition or habit, between them 
 and the savages of the coast at the mouth of the river. 
 The best supported opinion is, that they were of the same 
 original stock with the lower tribes, but discontinued the 
 custom. 
 
 They have a great variety of games, which they pur- 
 sue often with such ardour, that they would gamble aw^ay 
 every thing they {wssess — even their wives and children. 
 One of their usual games is this : One man takes a sm?JA 
 stone, which he shifts from hand to hand repeatedly, ail 
 the wliile humming a low monotonous air. The bet 
 being made, according as the adversary succeeds in 
 grasping the hand which contains the stone, he wins or 
 loses. The game is generall}'- played with great fairness ; 
 and the loser submits with the most philosophical resig- 
 nation. They are also consummate thieves, and proud 
 of their dexterity. He who is frequently successful gains 
 applause and popularity; but the clumsy thief, who is 
 detected, is scoffed at and despised. 
 
 So we find among the modern savages, on the shores 
 
94 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 of the Pacific, the same passion for gambling- which, 
 Tacitus says, existed among the aboriginal Germans ; 
 and the same merit attached to dexterous and successful 
 stealing which existed among the ancient Spartans. Like 
 the Spartans, too, they considered drunkenness a great 
 degradation, — a vice fit only for slaves. On one occasion 
 the son of Comcomly, chief of the Chinooks, was induced 
 to drink at the factory until he became intoxicated. He 
 then played the most extravagant pranks. He was sent 
 home in that state : and the old chief went to the factory 
 in a state of high rage, and reproached the people there 
 for having degraded his son, and exposed him to the 
 laughter and contempt of his slaves. But, however, they 
 deem it, in general, no degradation now to get drunk, 
 when they can. 
 
 This noted chief, Comcomly, was buried with great 
 ceremony, in a canoe near Fort George, in 1831. His 
 body was afterwards taken out of the canoe, for greater 
 security, by his relations, and placed in a long box, in a 
 lonely part of tlie woods. But the precaution was idle. 
 His head is now in the possession of some eminent phy- 
 sician in Edinburgh ; and, strange to say, although he 
 had been buried about five years, his skin was quite dry, 
 and not decayed. It required a very sharp knife to pene- 
 trate the skin ; and his hair was still on his head. 
 
 Marriage among them is a matter for previous nego- 
 tiation, and attended with solemnity. When a young 
 man has made his choice, and obtained consent, the pa- 
 rents, or other natural guardians of the girl, are next to 
 be consulted. These are to receive a certain quantity of 
 presents, — slaves, axes, kettles, trinkets, &c. When the 
 amount is agreed on, they repair to the house intended 
 for the young couple, to which the most respectable in- 
 habitants of the village are invited. The young man, 
 having distributed the presents, receives, in the style of 
 the heroes of the Homeric age, an equal, often a greater 
 number, of presents from the girl's relations. Then the 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 95 
 
 bride, decorated with various ornaments, is led forth by 
 a few old women, and presented to the bridegroom, who 
 receives her as his wife. The company, atler partaking 
 of hospitality, and wishing- the young couple every hap- 
 piness — a numerous progeny, aljundance, and peace, re- 
 tire. Though the union is generally lasting, it is not in- 
 dissoluble ; as a man may, for infidelity, repudiate his 
 wife ; who is, after that, at liberty to take another hus- 
 band. Polygamy is not only allowed, but is a mark of 
 distinction. The greater the number of wives a man 
 can maintain the higher is he esteemed. In fact, the 
 respectability and influence of the chief depends on the 
 number of wives, slaves, and other property which he 
 possesses ; and his election to the office mainly depends 
 on this qualification. Though the wives generally live 
 in harmony together, the first wife takes precedence of 
 all the others, and is considered as mistress of the house. 
 
 They regulate the prices of their articles by haiqua, 
 which is a milk-white round shell of extreme hardness, 
 found in the neighbourhood of Nootka Sound. It varies 
 in length from one to four inches, and is about half an 
 inch thick — hollow^, slightly curved, and tapering a little 
 towards the ends. It is highly estimated, the longest 
 being the most valuable. 
 
 It resembles the top shank of a common clay smoking- 
 pipe. They are valued in proportion to the number that, 
 when ranged on a string, passing through their hollow 
 tubes, extend a fathom's length. Forty to the fathom, is 
 supposed to be the fixed standard of excellence and worth: 
 for instance, forty which make a fathom are worth nearly 
 double fifty which make a fathom. There extreme fra- 
 gility, lightness, tenuity, and delicacy of colour, are what 
 appear to give them their importance. They are thus 
 caught in Nootka Sound, and along Vancouver's Island ; 
 — a piece of deer flesh, or of fish, is dropped from a line 
 to the bottom : this they cling to ; and they are then 
 drawn up, and carefully gutted and preserved. 
 
96 OREGON TERRITORV. 
 
 Sturgeon fishing. — Sturgeon are caught by the Chi- 
 nooks in the following manner. To the line — which is 
 made from the twisted roots of trees — is attached a large 
 hook, made of hard wood. This is lowered some twenty 
 feet below the surface of the water. The canoes are not 
 more than ten feet long ; manned by never more than 
 two, sometimes only by one; and slowly drift down the 
 river with the current. When the sturgeon bites, and 
 they have him fast, the line is hauled up gently until 
 they get his head to the water's edge. He then receives 
 a blow from a lieavy wooden mallet, which kills him. 
 The gunwale of the canoe is lowered to the verge of the 
 w^ater ; and the sturgeon, though weighing upwards of 
 thiiee hundred pounds, is, by the single effort of one In- 
 dian, jerked into the boat. 
 
 A few months since, I saw a paragraph in most of the 
 largely circulated papers, stating that a sturgeon weigh- 
 ing three or four hundred pounds had been caught in the 
 river Thames ; and that a host of people, amounting to 
 two or three hundred, were employed in killing this fish. 
 I thought that the old saying, of nine tailors making a 
 man, was exceeded in this case ; as it appears that it 
 took three hundred Englishmen to make one Chinook 
 sturgeon-catcher. 
 
 Their liouses are constructed of wood, and vary in 
 length from twenty to seventy feet, and in breadth from 
 fifteen to twenty-five feet. Two or more posts of split 
 timber, according to the number of partitions, are sunk 
 firmly into the ground, and rise upwards to the height of 
 fi.fteen or eighteen feet. They are grooved at the top so 
 as to receive the ends of a round beam or pole, stretching 
 from one end to the otlier, and forming the upper point of 
 the roof, from one end of the building to the other. On 
 each side of this range is placed another row much lower, 
 being about five feet high, which forms tlie eaves of the 
 house. But as the building is often sunk to the depth of 
 four or five feet in the ground, the eaves come very near 
 
oukgon territory. 97 
 
 the surface of tlie earth. Smaller pieces of timber are 
 then extended, by pairs, in the form of rafters from the 
 lower to the higher beam, and are fastened at both ends 
 by cords of cedar bark. On these rafters two or three 
 ranges of small poles are placed horizontally, and in the 
 same way fastened with similar cords. The sides are 
 then made, with a range of wide boards sunk a small 
 distance into the ground, with the upper ends projecting 
 above the poles of the eaves, to which they are secured 
 by a beam passing outside, parallel with the eave poles, 
 and tied by cords of cedar bark passing through the 
 holes made in the boards at certain distances. The gable- 
 ends and partitions are formed in the same way ; being 
 fastened by beams on the outside, parallel with the rafters. 
 The roof is then covered with a double range of thin 
 boards, excepting a space of two or three feet in the 
 centre, which serves for a chimney. The entrance is by 
 a hole cut through the boards, and just large enough to 
 admit the body. 
 
 The largest houses are divided by partitions; and 
 three or four families may be found residing in a one- 
 roomed house. In the centre of each room is a space, 
 six or eight feet square, sunk to the depth of twelve 
 inches below the rest of the floor, and enclosed by four 
 pieces of square timber ; here they make the fire, which 
 is of wood and pine bark. The partitions in the houses 
 are intended to separate different families. Around the 
 fire-place mats are spread, and serve as seats by day, and 
 frequently as beds at night : there is, however, a more 
 permanent bed made, by fixing in two, or sometimes 
 three, sides of a room, posts reaching from the roof to the 
 floor, and at the distance of four feet from the wall. 
 From these posts to the wall one or two ranges of boards 
 are placed, so as to form shelves, on which they either 
 sleep or stow their various articles of merchandise. In 
 short, they are like berths in a ship. The uncured fish 
 is hung in the smoke of their fires ; as is also the fles 
 9 
 
98 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 of the elk when they are fortunate enough to procure 
 any. 
 
 Their culinary articles consist of a large square kettle, 
 made of cedar wood, a few platters, and spoons made of 
 ash. Their mode of cooking is expeditious. Having put 
 a quantity of water into the kettle, they throw into it 
 several hot stones, which quickly cause the water to boil; 
 then the fish or flesh is put in ; the steam is kept from 
 evaporating by a small mat thrown over the kettle. By 
 this mode a large salmon would be boiled in twenty 
 minutes, and meat in a proportionably short space of 
 time. They occasionally roast their fish and flesh on 
 small wooden skewers. 
 
 For the felling and cutting of trees — sometimes from 
 thirty to forty feet in circumference — for building their 
 houses, and forming their canoes, they had not, previous 
 to their intercourse with the whites, even an axe. For 
 such immense work their only instruments consisted of a 
 chisel, formed out of an old file ; a kind of oblong stone 
 used as a hammer, and a mallet made of spruce-tree 
 knot, well oiled and hardened by the action of the fire. 
 
 They are very ingenious in the construction of their 
 nets, which are made of a sort of wild hemp, sometimes 
 called silk-grass, found on the upper borders of the Co- 
 lumbia; or of the fibres of the roots of trees ; or the inner 
 ligaments of the bark of the white cedar. These nets 
 are of different kinds, for the different kinds of fishery — 
 the straight net for the larger fish in deep water ; and 
 the scooping or dipping-net for the smaller fish in the 
 shallower waters. They also use a curious sort of many- 
 pronged spear, for drawing up small fish. This is a pole 
 set all round with numerous short wooden little spikes. 
 This they work along against the current from the canoe, 
 and against the small fish, that swim onwards in dense 
 masses. At every take-up of this spear, which is done 
 in quick succession, it is found filled with fishes impaled 
 on those sharp spikes. In their nets they use stones in 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 99 
 
 place of lead ; and tlieir superior usefulness and adapta- 
 tion to the fishery of the Columbia, over the nets of the 
 civilized white, may be shown from the following fact. 
 
 A Mr. Wyeth, of Boston, having heard much of the 
 salmon fishery in the Columbia, and thinking it would 
 afford a profitable trading speculation, chartered a vessel, 
 in 1835 ; and on his way took a number of the Sandwich 
 Islanders as fishermen; supplying himself also with a 
 cargo of fishing nets, and a great variety of other fishing 
 apparatus, on the most approved principles. On arriving 
 at the Columbia he set vigorously to work, dead sure of 
 making a fortune. But his nets were totally unfit for the 
 occupation ; and his exotic fishermen, notoriously fami- 
 liar as they are with the watery element, were no match 
 for the natives, pursuing their natural occupation in 
 almost their indigenous element, and so familiar with the 
 seasons, the currents, the localities, and all the manj"^ 
 other circumstances that insure success. He set up for 
 a fur trader as well, and imagined that he would make 
 up his loss in competition against the savages by his 
 successful competition against the Company. But his 
 trappers were not more successful than his fishermen ; 
 although the Company afforded him every facility ; and, 
 he was obliged to quit the country a disappointed adven- 
 turer, having disposed of his goods and chattels to the 
 Company, who, according to his own written statement, 
 treated him with generosity. To this fact, which I now 
 state, Mr. Washington Irving bears honourable testimony. 
 
100 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Fort V^ancouver — its farm establishment. 
 
 Fort Vancouver is the head-quarters, establishment, 
 or grand depot of the Company, west of the Rocky 
 Movmtains. It is situated near Point Vancouver (so 
 called from the celebrated English navigator and dis- 
 coverer in those seas) on the northwest of the Columbia, 
 on a large, level plain, about a quarter of a mile from the 
 shore, and ninety miles from the Pacific. The river in 
 front of it is seventeen hundred yards wide, and six 
 fathoms deep. The whole country round is covered with 
 noble woods, consisting of many kinds of valuable timber ; 
 such as cedar, pine, &c., interspersed with open and 
 fertile spaces. It was founded in 1824, by Governor 
 Simpson ; as the locality was more convenient for trade 
 — had a larger and richer tract of land for cultivation — 
 and afforded a more convenient landing-place for cargoes 
 from the ships, than the former dep6t — Fort George (or 
 Astoria) — which lay near the mouth of the river. 
 
 Fort Vancouver is then the grand mart and rendezvous 
 for the Company's trade and servants on the Pacific. 
 Thither all the furs and other articles of trade collected 
 west of the Rocky Mountains, from California to the Rus- 
 sian territories, are brought from the several other forts 
 and stations : and from thence they are shipped to Eng- 
 land. Thither too all the goods brought from England 
 for traffic — the various articles in woollens and cottons — 
 in grocery — in hardware — ready-made clothes — oils and 
 paints — ship stores, &:c., are landed ; and from thence 
 they are distributed to the various posts of the interior, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 101 
 
 and along the northern shores by sailing vessels, or by- 
 boat, or pack-horses, as the several routes permit, for 
 distribution and traffic among the natives, or for the 
 supply of the Company's servants. In a word. Fort 
 Vancouver is the grand emporium of the Company's 
 trade, west of the Rocky Mountains ; as well within the 
 Oregon Territory as beyond it, from California to Kamt- 
 schatka. 
 
 The present governor is Dr. John M'Loughlin. He is 
 described by American writers, whom he entertained in 
 his usual style, as a portly, dignified-looking man, almost 
 six feet high, with a florid complexion — gray hair — large 
 blue eyes — an open and benevolent expression of counte- 
 nance — bland and courteous manners — a generous and 
 most hospitable disposition. This I know to be all true. 
 He has been in the service of the Company from his 
 youth, to hi»own credit and their great benefit. He has 
 mounted up to his present high oflice — the highest — by 
 his diligence, integrity, and skill. He is thoroughly 
 familiar with the whole trade, in all its ramifications and 
 minutiEe. He has contributed greatly to bring it to its 
 present high state, and is making every effort to advance 
 it farther. He was a very influential partner in the 
 Northw^est Company, before its junction with the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company. During his occasional absence his 
 duties are discharged by his w-orthy deputy, J. Douglas, 
 Esq. 
 
 The fort is in the shape of a parallelogram, about two 
 hundred and fift,y yards long by one hundred and fifty 
 broad, enclosed by a sort of wooden wall, made of pickets, 
 or large beams firmly fixed in the ground, and closely 
 fitted together, twenty feet high, and strongly secured on 
 the inside by buttresses. At each angle there is a 
 bastion, mounting two twelve. pounders, and in the centre 
 there are some eighteen-pounders ; but from the subdued 
 and pacific character of the natives, and the long absence 
 of all apprehension, these cannon have become useless. 
 9* 
 
102 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 The area within is divided into two courts, around which 
 are arranged about forty neat, strong wooden buildings, 
 one story high, designed for various purposes — such as 
 offices, apartments for the clerks, and other officers — 
 warehouses for furs, English goods, and other commodi- 
 ties — workshops for the different mechanics ; carpenters, 
 blacksmiths, coopers, wheelwrights, tinners, &cc. ; in all of 
 which tlicrc is the most diligent and unceasing activity 
 and industry. There is also a schoolhouse and chapel, 
 and a powder magazine, built of brick and stone. 
 
 In the centre stands the governor's residence, which is 
 two stories high — the dining hall, and the public sitting- 
 room. All the clerks and officers, including the chaplain 
 and physician, dine together in the hall, the governor 
 presiding. The dinner is of the most substantial kind, 
 consisting of several courses. Wine is frequently allowed, 
 but no spirituous liquors. After grace has llten said, the 
 company break up. Then most of the party retire to the 
 public sitting-room, called "Bachelor's Hall," or the 
 smoking-room, to amuse themselves as they please, either 
 in smoking, reading, or telling and listening to stories of 
 their own, and others' curious adventures. Sometimes 
 there is a great influx of company, consisting of the chief 
 traders from the outposts, who arrive at the fort on 
 business, and the commanders of vessels. These are 
 gala times after dinner, and tliere is a great deal of 
 amusement, but always kept under strict discipline, and 
 regulated by the strictest propriety. There is, on no 
 occasion, cause for ennui, or a lack of anecdote and 
 interesting narrative, or indeed of any intellectual amuse- 
 ment ; for if smoking and story-telling be irksome, then 
 there is the horse ready to mount, and the rifle prepared. 
 The voyageur and the trapper, who have traversed 
 thousands of miles, through wild and unfrequented re. 
 gions, and the mariner, who has circumnavigated the 
 globe, may be found gi'ouped together, smoking, joking, 
 singing, and story-telling, and in every way banishing 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 103 
 
 dull care, till the period of their again setting- out for 
 their respective destinations arrive. 
 
 The smoking- room, or " Bachelor's Hall," presents the 
 appearance of an armoury and a museum. All sorts of 
 weapons, and dresses, and curiosities of civilized and sa- 
 vage life, and of the various implements for the prosecu- 
 tion of the trade, may be seen there. 
 
 Tiie mechanics, and other servants of the establish- 
 ment, do not dine in the hall, or go to the smoking-room. 
 
 The clerks, afler passing through many stages of trust 
 and emolument, are promoted to the post of chief trader : 
 after that to the post of chief factor ; then they ascend 
 to become shareholders of the Company, and governors 
 of forts. But all the gradations of promotion are, in 
 general, dependent on skill, industry, and integrity. In- 
 deed, throughout the various ramifications and degrees of 
 til is vast, and wide-spread commercial association, there 
 is less favouritism than could be expected, and less than 
 in any other mercantile institution : almost all the pa- 
 tronage of the Company is bestowed as the reward of 
 merit, and long service. The precision, order, and regu- 
 larity with which the various operations are carried on, 
 together with the strict decorum and sobriety observed, 
 are entitled to the highest commendation ; and excite the 
 wonder of the Americans ! 
 
 The school is for the benefit of the half-breed children 
 of the officers and servants of the Company, and of many 
 orphan children of Indians who have been in the Com- 
 pany's employment. They are taught English (some- 
 times French), writing, arithmetic, and geography ; and 
 are subsequently either apprenticed to traders in Canada ; 
 or kept in the Company's service. 
 
 The front square is the place where the Indians and 
 trappers deposit their furs, and other articles, and make 
 their sales, &.c. There may be seen, too, great numbers 
 of men sorting and packing the various goods ; and 
 scores of Canadians beating and cleaning the furs from 
 
104 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 the dust and vermin and coarse hairs, previous to expor- 
 tation. 
 
 Six hundred yards below the fort, and on the bank of 
 the river, there is a neat village, of about sixty well-built 
 wooden houses, generally constructed like those within 
 the fort ; in which the mechanics, and other servants of 
 the Company, who are in general Canadians and Scotch- 
 men, reside with their families. They are built in rows, 
 and present the appearance of small streets. They are 
 kept in a clean and orderly manner. Here there is an 
 hospital, in which the invalided servants of the Company, 
 and, indeed, others who may wish to avail themselves of 
 it, are treated with the utmost care. This is attended by 
 Dr. Tolmic, the resident surgeon of the fort. 
 
 Many of the officers of the Company marry half-breed 
 women. These discharge the several duties of wife and 
 mother with fidelity, cleverness, and attention. They 
 are, in general, good housewives ; and are remarkably 
 ingenious as needlewomen. Many of them, besides pos- 
 sessing a knowledge of English, speak French correctly, 
 and possess other accomplishment ; and they sometimes 
 attend their husbands, on their distant and tedious jour- 
 neys and voyages. These half-breed women are of a 
 superior class ; being the daughters of chief traders and 
 factors, and other persons high in the Company's service, 
 by Indian women, of a superior descent or of superior 
 personal attractions. Though they generally dress after 
 the English fashion, according as they see it used by the 
 English wives of the superior officers, yet they retain one 
 peculiarity — the leggin or gaiter, which is made (now 
 that the tanned deer-skin has been superseded) of the 
 finest, and most gaudy-coloured cloth, beautifully orna- 
 mented with beads. 
 
 The lower classes of the Company's servants marry 
 native women, from the tribes of the upper country ; 
 where the women are round-headed, and beautiful. 
 These, too, generally speaking, soon learn the art of use- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 105 
 
 ful housewifery with great adroitness and readiness ; and 
 they are encouraged and rewarded in every way by the 
 Company, in their efforts to acquire domestic economy 
 and comfort. These too, imitate, in costume, the dress of 
 the officers' wives, as much as they can ; but from their 
 necessities of position, which exposes them more to wet 
 and drudgery, they retain the mocassin, in place of adopt- 
 ing the low-quartered shoe. This is made of deer-skin, 
 dressed under a peculiar process ; the most important of 
 which is seasoning over warm smoke, by which the leather 
 is rendered perfectly waterproof. These mocassins are 
 so elastic that they can be drawn on like a stocking ; and 
 so light that they serve the purposes of high shoe and 
 stocking together. They are open partly down the front; 
 one side lapping over the otlier ; and fastened with a long 
 strip of the same leather — drawn upwards — passing two 
 or three times round the leg. 
 
 The half-breeds are a very well-featured race ; and the 
 men are remarkably ingenious, athletic, and vigorous. 
 In horsemanship they are singularly adroit. Nor is this 
 to be wondered at ; for in fact tliey have been reared 
 from their extremest youth to the management of the 
 horse, accompanjnng their parents, generally, in their 
 trapping journeys over the plains and hills on horseback. 
 One of these practised half-breeds would receive applause 
 from Alexander of Macedon himself, or the best tutored 
 equestrian at Astley's. He would mount the wildest and 
 most high-mettled Bucephalus of the plains — give him 
 full play over level and rough — high and low — river and 
 hill, until he brought him back as tame as a mouse. 
 
 The cleverest fellow, of this school, I ever saw was 
 Joseph M'Loughlin, a natural son of the present gover- 
 nor, by a half-breed woman. He was a person of some 
 little distinction from the accident of his birth, inde- 
 pendently of his astonishing equestrian capabilities. In 
 seeing his feats, when managing a wild stallion, that gal- 
 loped and plunged to desperation, — clinging to the ani- 
 
106 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 mal, as if he were an inseparable part of him — playfully 
 tossing his bare head over the upreared head of the horse, 
 while his breech clung to his back with the tenacity of 
 wax ; and his heels seemed glued to his ribs ; with his 
 hands fastened in the mane ; he completely explained to 
 me the fabulous stories which I read in my boyhood of 
 the Centaurs; for I at once saw that there was some 
 ground for the old pictures of poets and painters, in draw- 
 ing a compound animal — man and horse. 
 
 The mode generally adopted in catching the wild 
 horse is by the lasso, or noose rope. An experienced 
 and well-mounted man, riding a practised horse, gallops 
 up to a herd, holding his head as close to his horse's flow- 
 ing mane as possible, for a disguise. Thus he is enabled 
 to approach the herd. The herd, on seeing him fully, 
 then scamper off, from an instinctive dread of danger. 
 But he gallops on until he comes within effective range, 
 and has taken his aim. He then lets fly his noose, which 
 is at the end of a long rope, kept previously coiled up. 
 This is discharged like a stone from a sling; and is 
 thrown with such unerring precision, that the horse's 
 neck is caught in the noose. He is at once prostrated. 
 The rider dismounts and fetters him. He is soon after- 
 wards tamed. Sometimes the horses are thus caught 
 when roaming at large, in the wide and open plain ; but 
 the more general custom now is for a number of horse- 
 men to scare them into a kind of enclosed park, where 
 the process of catching is rendered more easy and expe- 
 ditious. Sometimes these ropes are made of the coarse, 
 strong hemp of the country ; but generally of thongs 
 from the tanned buffalo-hide, as this substance, from its 
 superior weight, strength, and elasticity, is discharged 
 from the hand with greater force, and effects its purpose 
 with speedier and surer effect. 
 
 Attached to the fort there is a magnificent farm, con- 
 sisting of about three thousand acres ; of which about fif- 
 teen hundred acres have been already brought to the 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 107 
 
 highest state of tillage. It stretches behind the fort, and 
 on both sides, along the banks of the river. It is fenced 
 into beautiful corn-fields — vegetable-fields — orchards — 
 gardens — and pasture-fields, which are interspersed with 
 dairy-houses, shepherds' and herdsmen's cottages. It is 
 placed under the most judicious management: and neither 
 expense nor labour has been spared to bring it to the 
 most perfect cultivation. There is a large grist-mill, and 
 a threshing-mill, which are worked by horse-power ; and 
 a saw-mill worked by water-power. All kinds of grain 
 and vegetables, and many species of fruits, are produced 
 there in abundance and of superior quality. The grain 
 crops are produced without manure ; and the wheat crop, 
 especially, is represented by practical farmers to be won- 
 derfiil. It must, however, be observed, that Indian corn 
 does not thrive there so well as in other soils. But this 
 is not considered as any matter for regret or loss. Me- 
 Ions and grapes grow there remarkably well. But per- 
 haps the greatest curiosity of all is to be seen in the 
 dwarf apple-trees. These grow thickly, and are so loaded 
 with fruit of the best quality, that it is necessary to prop 
 up the branches to prevent them from breaking : the 
 apples grow packed together, resembling onions fastened 
 in rows on a string. The whole farm is in charge of a 
 most experienced farmer, Mr. G. Allen, a Scotchman. 
 There is also a principal gardener, Mr. Bruce, a Scotch- 
 man. Mr. Allen having been placed as agent for the 
 Company at the Sandwich Islands, Mr. George Roberts, 
 whose skill and zeal pointed him out to the Company as 
 one worthy of promotion and confidence, was selected as 
 the fittest successor to Mr. Allen in his important post. 
 
 Besides this farm, which they are every day extending, 
 they have commenced farming on a large scale on the 
 Cowilitze, to the north ; Umpqua, to the south ; and in 
 other parts of the territory, where they have established 
 posts, the produce of all which they use for exportation 
 both to the Russian stations, in Kamtschatka (as they 
 
108 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 entered into a contract with the Russians, in 1839, 
 to supply their posts in those regions with provisions at 
 fixed prices), and to the islands in the Southern Pacific ; 
 and to British and American whalers, and to other mer- 
 chant ships. 
 
 They also keep scores of woodcutters, employed to fell 
 timber, which is sawed up in large quantities — ^three 
 thousand feet a day, and regularly shipped for the Sand- 
 wich Islands, and other foreign parts. And as they can 
 afford to sell the goods purchased in England under a 
 contract of old standing, together with the productions of 
 the territory and their own farms, — fish, beef, mutton, 
 pork, timber, &c., at nearly half the American price, 
 they are likely to engross the whole trade of the Pacific, 
 as they do already the trade of the Oregon ; especially 
 since they command all the ports and safe inlets of the 
 country. This the Americans feel and declare ; and it is 
 this that whets their cupidity, and excites their jealousy 
 and hatred. 
 
 Ttapping-Parties leaving Vancouver — These parties 
 are some weeks preparing for the mountains and prairies. 
 The blacksmiths are busily engaged making beaver-traps 
 for the trappers — the storekeepers making up articles for 
 trade, and equipping the men (as each of them takes 
 from the store every requisite article), the clerk in charge 
 of the provision-store (generally called, after the French, 
 depance), packing up provisions for them, to last until 
 they get into hunting-ground — the clerk in charge of the 
 farm providing horses, and other requisite articles. 
 
 The party generally consists of about fifty or sixty 
 men — most of them tlie Company's servants — others, free 
 hunters. The servants have a stated salary, while the 
 freemen receive so much per skin. Previous to leaving 
 the fort for their arduous adventure, they are allowed a 
 small quantity of rum per man ; and they generally en- 
 joy a grand holiday and feast the night previous to start- 
 ing. Each man has a certain number of horses, sufficient 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 109 
 
 to carry his equipment. The free trappers gfenerally pro- 
 vide their own animals. Both the Company's servants 
 and the freemen frequently take their wives and families 
 with them : the women are very useful on the expedi- 
 tion, In preparing meals and other necessaries for their 
 husbands during their absence from the camp. In sum- 
 mer and winter, whether they have a sort of travelling 
 camp or a fixed residence, they select the localities that 
 most abound In fur-bearing animals. 
 
 Though a party may be obliged, from a variety of cir- 
 cumstances, to winter In the plains, or In the recesses of 
 the mountains, on the borders of lakes or rivers, some 
 numbers of It return to the fort at the fall., wath the pro- 
 duce of the season's hunt, and report progress ; and re- 
 turn to the camp with a reinforcement of necessary sup- 
 plies. Thus the Company are enabled to acquire a minute 
 knowledge of the country and the natives ; and extend 
 their power and authority over both. 
 
 Certain gentlemen of the Company have been appoint- 
 ed, by act of Parliament, justices of the peace ; who are 
 empowered to entertain prosecutions for minor offences, 
 and to impose punishment — to arrest and send to Canada 
 criminals of a higher order for trial ; and also to try, and 
 give judgment in civil suits, where the amount in dispute 
 does not exceed £200; and. In case of non-payment, to 
 imprison the debtor, at their own forts, or in the jails of 
 Canada. 
 
 Mr. M'Kay, one of the principal officers in charge of 
 the Hudson's Bay Company's trapping-party in the Snake 
 country, Is a gentleman of great Intelligence and natural 
 astuteness, and also of good feeling ; and Is quite as much 
 at home in the prairies and wilderness as he Is in a fort. 
 I recollect a story related by him, in " bachelors' hall." 
 He was speaking of a son of a Mr. Bird, a gentleman 
 some years ago in the service of the Company. This 
 young Bird (and a wild bird he proved to be) received a 
 fair education, and could converse In French and English. 
 10 
 
110 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 He was some time in the Company's service ; but, finding 
 the work too hard for him, joined the Blackfeet Indians, 
 and was made a chief; and he took several daughters of 
 chiefs for his wives, and became a man of some note and 
 respect. He received, amongst the trappers, the nick- 
 name of Jemmy Jock. He had then been living with 
 the Indians twenty years, and was much disliked by the 
 American trapping-parties ; in fact, it has been said that 
 the Americans did once offer five hundred dollars for his 
 head, as they supposed he had been a leader amongst a 
 tribe of Blackfeet when an American party was cut off 
 by them. 
 
 Mr. M'Kay said, he was once encamped in the plain, 
 and imagined that the Blackfeet nmst be in the vicinity 
 of the camp, by various marks. He accordingly, at night, 
 gave strict orders to the Canadians on watch to keep a 
 good look-out ; which they did, with rifle in hand. But 
 this Jemmy Jock, dressed as a Canadian voyageur, ma- 
 naged to enter the camp unobserved — walked up to the 
 chief man on watch ; and, addressing him in Canadian- 
 French, said that he had " received orders that the horses 
 which were in the camp should be turned out to graze." 
 The watchman, taking it for granted that the order came 
 from M'Kay, ordered the horses to be let out. But before 
 long the camp was roused by the loud whoop of the 
 Blackfeet : some of the horses were mounted ; and others 
 driven off before the marauding-party ; the poor trappers 
 being left to make the best of their way through the 
 plains as they could. Sometimes in travelling through 
 the plains the Company's trappers fall in with a letter, 
 tied to a stick, left by this humorous half-breed, to an- 
 nounce that he has camped at this spot with his party a 
 short time previous — sometimes giving them good in- 
 formation ; and sometimes intending to mislead, and play 
 them a frolicksome or mischievous trick. 
 
 Rifle-shots. — It is generally a custom amongst first- 
 rate rifle-shots, in the service, to have a favourite rifle. 
 
OREGON TERRITORV. Ill 
 
 This rifle always being practised with, the)'' are sure to 
 hit the mark. It is frequently seen, that, by a good 
 rifleman, a duck's head is knocked off" at one hundred 
 and twenty yards. This Mr. M'Kay is an excellent shot. 
 He says that he generally shoots the bear in the mouth, 
 to save the skin. During the leisure hours in the summer 
 months, at the fort, after business hours, the officers often 
 amuse themselves at rifle-shooting ; and at eighty yards, 
 the bull's-eye is seldom missed : and once or twice a 
 week, the riding horses are generally brought into the 
 fort for the officers to recreate themselves with a ride. 
 
 Here we had an old and favourite servant, who was 
 cook, and whose name was Overy, a Canadian. He was 
 never more happy than when he was able to play off" his 
 pranks with any of the sailors, when a vessel lay in the 
 river. At one time, on the arrival of a vessel from 
 England, there was on board a curious, eccentric old 
 boatswain, who had, previously to joining the Company's 
 service, been on board a man-of-war. The cook and the 
 boatswain became very familiar ; and the cook was in- 
 vited on board the vessel to dine with the boatswain. 
 The invitation was accepted ; and the compliment was 
 returned on the Sunday following. Overy not knowing 
 what to get good enough for his dear and hospitable 
 friend, the boatswain, oethought him of a dog, which is 
 a favourite dish amongst Canadian voyageurs. The old 
 boatswain ate heartily of it, as did the cook. After he 
 had done, the cook inquired how he had enjoyed his 
 dinner : he said it was beautiful. He then asked him 
 whether he knew what he had been dining on : he said 
 he supposed from a goat. " Yes," says the cook, " you 
 have been eating from a goat with von long tail, that 
 don't like grass or heather." " How is that ?" inquired 
 the boatswain. " Vy you sec," replied the cook, " it was 
 my best dog you have dined from." The old boatswain 
 stormed and swore ; and then ran, as fast as possible, to 
 the vessel, to get a little rum to lay his stomach. He 
 
1 12 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 vowed that he never again wished to dine with a Canadian 
 cook, or eat pet dogs. 
 
 In 1829, a beautiful brig — the William and Ann — sent 
 from England for the Company's use — in entering the 
 river, was driven on a shoal, between Cape Disappoint- 
 ment and Point Adams. A report was given to the gen- 
 tleman in charge of Fort George that a vessel was 
 wrecked on tlie bar. A search was immediately made ; 
 and it was found that the report was true. A boat was 
 found driven on shore : and the stem had been cut as if 
 by an axe. The body of the captain alone was found. 
 The whole of the crew perished ; and it was generally 
 supposed that some of them had got on shore, but were 
 destro3'ed by the Clatsop Indians, in whose possession 
 were found numerous articles which had drifted on shore. 
 In fact, they had a great quantity of the cargo, with 
 several puncheons of rum, buried under the sands on the 
 beach. The governor of Fort Vancouver sent down an 
 interpreter, and several men, to endeavour to gain infor- 
 mation respecting the lost ship ; and to get from the 
 natives the things which had drifted on shore. But the 
 natives merely sent impertinent messages, and an old 
 broken paper-framed looking-glass ; and told him to be 
 contented with that. This strengthened the governor's 
 suspicion, and he thought part of the crew had been 
 murdered. To gain the articles in possession of the 
 Indians, he was obliged to send a strong party of armed 
 men amongst them ; and drive them from their village 
 into the woods, before they could gain the articles. From 
 that hour to this, the natives have shrunk from tampering 
 w^ith any thing under the Company's protection. 
 
 The year following, a splendid brig — the Isabella — 
 commanded by Captain Ryan, shared the same fate. She 
 drove upon tlie sands : but the whole of the crew were 
 saved; and, b}' the prompt exertions of Dr. M'Loughlin, 
 and the officers of Fort Vancouver, great part of the 
 cargo was saved : but the vessel went to pieces ; and was 
 drifted, piecemeal, to sea. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 113 
 
 A little time previous to my leaving the country, 
 Michel Laframboise, the gentleman in charge of the 
 trapping parties hunting the plains near California, 
 brought news of an American party having been cut off. 
 This party had left the Wallamette settlement ; and were 
 proceeding to California, to purchase cattle. Some 
 Americans, previous to this party, had been on the same 
 route, and an Indian had been murdered by them. But 
 Indians always wait for revenge — so did they in this in- 
 stance. The Indians, finding that this party consisted of 
 Americans only, thought it offered them their long-looked- 
 for opportunity of revenge. They had, it was supposed, 
 been watching the Americans on their journey, for days ; 
 and knowing that these had to cross a high mountain, 
 where there was but a narrow and crooked path to guide 
 them; which was lined by rocks and bushes on each side, 
 selected this as the spot of attack. The path was so 
 narrow, that their horses were obliged to walk single, one 
 after the other. After the party had gone some distance 
 up the mountain, the Indians completely closed them in, 
 and let fly their arrows and guns ; killing both horses 
 and men. The Americans, having but little chance of 
 defence or retaliation, as the Indians were sheltered by 
 the rocks and bushes, were slain unresistingly. One 
 little half-breed boy, named Johnson, after three arrows 
 had pierced him, was in the act of firing his gun, when 
 a fourth arrow struck him in the throat and killed him. 
 Two men only were saved to tell the tale. 
 
 On one occasion an American vessel. Captain Thomp- 
 son, was in the Columbia, trading furs and salmon. The 
 vessel had got aground, in the upper part of the river, 
 and the Indians, from various quarters, mustered with 
 the intent of cutting the Americans off, thinking that 
 they had an opportunity of revenge, and would thus 
 escape the censure of the Company. Dr. M'Loughlin, 
 the governor of Fort Vancouver, hearing of their inten- 
 tion, immediately despatched a party to their rendezvous ; 
 10* 
 
114 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 and informed them that if they injured one American, it 
 would be just the same offence as if they had injured one 
 of his servants, and they would be treated equally as 
 enemies. This stunned them ; and they relinquished 
 their purpose ; and all retired to their respective homes. 
 Had not this come to the governor's ears the Americans 
 must have perished. 
 
 Mode of curing salmon. — As soon as a cargo of salmon 
 is caught, the natives bring it to the trading post in their 
 canoes. A number of Indian women are employed by 
 the trader, seated on the beach, with knives, ready to cut 
 up the fish. The salmon are counted from each Indian, 
 for which a ticket is given for the quantity, large or 
 small. After the whole of the salmon are landed, the 
 Indians congregate around the trading shop for their 
 payment, and receive ammunition, baize, tobacco, but- 
 tons, &c. 
 
 The women employed by the trader commence cutting 
 out the backbones, and cut off the heads of the salmon. 
 They are then taken to the salter, and placed in a large 
 hogshead, with a quantity of coarse salt. They remain 
 there for several days, until they become quite firm. The 
 pickle produced from these is boiled in a large copper 
 kettle, and the blood, which floats by the boiling process 
 to the top, is skimmed off, leaving the pickle perfectly 
 clear. The salmon are then taken from the hogsliead 
 and packed in tierces, with a little more salt ; the tierces 
 are then headed up, and laid upon their bilge, or widest 
 part, leaving the bunghole open ; the pickle is next poured 
 in, until the tierce becomes full ; a circle of clay, about 
 four inches high, is then made round the bunghole, into 
 which the oil from the salmon rises. This oil is skimmed 
 off, and, according as the salmon imbibes the pickle, more 
 pickle is poured in, so as to keep the liquid suflaciently 
 on the surface, and afford facility for skimming off the 
 oil. After the oil ceases to rise to the circle round the 
 bunghole, the salmon is then supposed to be sufficiently 
 
OREGON TERRITORV. 115 
 
 prepared ; the clay circle is cleared away, and the hole is 
 bunged up. Salmon, so cured, will keep good for three 
 years. This, soaked in a little water for a few hours 
 previous to using, is delicious eating ; but, of course, 
 much of its deliciousness depends on its original quality 
 when taken, and its freshness when put in salt. 
 
 The dogs are very fond of the raw salmon. The 
 Indian dogs, which are a sort of half-wolf breed, with 
 sharp nose and long bushy tail, eat it with perfect safety ; 
 but it is fatal to English dogs. I lost three valuable 
 dogs in this way, before I was aware of its fatal effects. 
 They slunk into the woods, and pined away until they 
 died. On opening them, I found the gall bladder as hard 
 as a stone. 
 
 The Company have already established the following 
 principal trading forts or stations within tlie limits of tiie 
 territory, independently of minor and temporary posts, 
 and several migratory establishments on the frontiers of 
 California, and the country extending towards the con- 
 fines of the United States. In short, it may be said, that 
 they have taken possession of every district within the 
 whole region ; which, throughout its wild and rugged 
 parts, as well as its fertile parts, is dotted with their forts 
 and establishments ; and they exercise unrestrained trade 
 and intercourse with all the native tribes ; whereas the 
 Americans, with the exception of a few missionary and 
 agricultural establishments, have scarcely any possession 
 or hold of the country. 
 
 They possess, then, the following principal posts : — 
 Fort Vancouver, on the north bank of the Columbia, 
 ninet}'^ miles from the ocean, and in latitude 45^^, longi- 
 tude 122^ 30' ; Fort George (formerly Astoria), near the 
 mouth of this river ; Fort Nasqually, on Puget's Sound, 
 latitude 47^ ; Fort Langley, at the outlet of Frazer's 
 River, latitude 49° 25'; Fort M'Loughlin, on Milbank 
 Sound, latitude 52=' ; Fort Simpson, on Dundas Island, 
 latitude 54^°; Frazer's Fort, Fort James, M'Leod's Fort, 
 
116 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 Chilcotin, and Fort Alexandria, on Frazer's River, and 
 its branches, between 51° and 54^° parallels of latitude; 
 Thompson's Fort, on Thompson's River, a tributary of 
 Frazer's, latitude 50° ; Kootiana Fort, on Flatbow River ; 
 Flathead Fort, on Flathead River ; Fort Hall and Fort 
 Boisais, on the Saptin, or Snake River ; Fort Colville, 
 and Fort O'Kanagan, on the Columbia, above its junction 
 with the Saptin ; Fort Perces, or Wallawalla, a few miles 
 below the junction ; Fort M'Kay, at the mouth of the 
 Umqua River, latitude 43° 30', and longitude 124° W. 
 
 In addition to these establishments, they have an im- 
 mense number of boats and canoes, for trading on all the 
 lakes, and rivers, and streams of the interior, by means 
 of which they hold communication with their possessions 
 east of the Rocky Mountains, and carry up the commu- 
 nication to Hudson's Bay, along a distance of several 
 thousand miles. Besides these, they have powerful 
 steamers, heavily armed, which run along the coast, and 
 among its bays and inlets, for the double purpose of com- 
 merce and protection against aggressions in those seas. 
 They have likewise several sailing vessels for these pur- 
 poses, varying from two to five hundred tons burden, 
 completely armed and equipped, besides barges for the 
 conveyance of goods to the lower part of the river, and 
 other craft, during the salmon season, for the conveyance 
 of supplies to the fishing stations on the parts of the river 
 unnavigable to the larger craft. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Wappatoo Island and Wallamelle Settlement. 
 
 Five miles below Fort Vancouver, and on the opposite, 
 or southern side, there is an island called Wappatoo 
 Island. It lies between the two entrances of the river 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 117 
 
 Wallamette, which flows into the Columbia, and is nearly 
 triangular. Its northern side, facing- the Columbia, is 
 about fifteen miles, long ; the side bounded by the eastern 
 branch, or mouth of the Wallamette, is about seven miles 
 long ; and the side bounded by tlie western branch of this 
 river is about twelve miles. It derives its name from the 
 great abundance of an esculent root called wappatoo ; a 
 name which the Indians give the potato. This root is 
 oblong, about one inch long and half an inch thick, 
 resembling the lower end of a small parsnip. The In- 
 dians use it for food ; and I have seen flocks of swans, 
 which abound in these parts, dig it up with their bills, as 
 it grov.'s only a few inches below the surface. Its taste 
 resembles that of the potato. 
 
 On this island, and on an elevated situation, near the 
 point where the mouths of the Wallamette branch off, 
 Captain W3'eth, of Boston, founded a settlement, when 
 he commenced his fishing and fur trading projects ; but 
 which has since been abandoned, with the abandonment 
 of his projects. The vegetation is generally good ; but 
 in the central parts there are marshes, in which the water 
 rises and falls with the tide, and overflows the land. It 
 is covered, in most parts, with different kinds of timber, 
 but principally oak and pine. A few hogs placed on it a 
 few years ago by the Company have increased to large 
 herds, which subsist on the wappatoo, acorns, &c., and 
 are become a source of profit, by supplying pork for the 
 home consumption, and for exportation. On the island 
 the Company have also established a large dairy farm. 
 
 The upper, or eastern mt)uth of the Wallamette is about 
 half the breadth of the Columbia ; the river itself, which 
 flows nearly due north, is navigable to the distance of 
 twenty-five miles for large vessels, and is studded with 
 numerous islands, on which the timber is chiefly oak, 
 very little pine (if any) growing there. The further 
 navigation of the river is obstructed by rapids, and is 
 completely barred by cataracts, or falls, about a mile 
 
118 
 
 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 above the rapids. The tide ascends as far as these 
 rapids, which can be passed only by canoes. Tiie Cow 
 country, on tlie western banks, is g-enerally hig-h land, 
 covered with wood, principally pine, rising from the 
 water side. The land on the eastern side is undulating-, 
 and admirably calculated for cultivation. The river 
 receives many tributaries ; but one of the most conside- 
 rable is one which flows from the east, and rushes into 
 the Wallamette with such force, just below the rapids, as 
 to create a heavy and dangerous swell. As far as the 
 rapids the breadth of the river is about five hundred 
 yards. The falls consist of three successive cascades, 
 in which the water is precipitated through deep gullies 
 worn into ledges of black rock, running in an irregular 
 diagonal across the bed of the river. The noise of the 
 water is almost deafening, resembling the roar of the 
 loudest thunder ; and the appearance of the spray, acted 
 on by the sun's rays, is almost dazzling. The eastern 
 shore, for some distance below the falls, is a perpendicular 
 cliff, thirty feet high. On the top of this cliff there is a 
 sort of small plain ; and as the valley of the Wallamette 
 is the most fertile district in all Columbia, and best 
 calculated for the production of corn (since the country 
 round about abounds in excellent timber of different 
 kinds) and as the falls can be approached from above, 
 as well as from below, by sloops, schooners, steamers, 
 &c., this small plot of level ground on the precipitous 
 bank of the river at the lowest cascade is admirably 
 calculated as a site for fiour and saw mills. When I left 
 the country the Company, seeing all these advantages, 
 were forming a raceway at the falls ; and were drawing 
 timber to the ground, with a view to erect some such 
 works there. Formerly it was necessary to unload at 
 the commencement of the falls, and convey canoes, lug- 
 gage, and all, over land to the other end, till there was 
 deep and smooth water found again. 
 
 It is a curious sight to observe the salmon ascending 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 119 
 
 these waterfalls. They seem to measure the height and 
 distanee, and their own strength accurately. They 
 appear to put their tails in their mouths ; and having 
 drawn the body to the proper curve, and produced the 
 necessary tension and poise, they let go their hold and 
 spring upward, (outside the descending sheet of water,) 
 like an arrow shot from a bow, and reach the next basin 
 into which the water is precipitated. Having there, as 
 it were, taken breath, and recruited their strength after 
 such an effort, they renew the attempt, over the succes- 
 sive cataracts, until they reach the smooth river above. 
 They generally succeed ; some, however, fail, and get 
 sadly battered against the rocks, 
 
 A short distance above the falls, the mountains imme- 
 diately rise from the water's edge, and are clothed with 
 forests of the largest timber, to the distance of about 
 fifteen miles along the river ; and after that the country 
 opens on both sides into a rich level, or undulating ground, 
 spreading to a great extent. This section of the river is 
 navigable nearly for as large vessels as can navigate the 
 section below the falls. 
 
 It is in this fertile district, near the banks of the river, 
 at the distance of about fifty miles from its entrance into 
 the Columbia, that the Wallamette settlement has been 
 established. 
 
 The Americans make a great boast of this settlement 
 as an American establishment ; and speak of it in their 
 public papers and speeches, as if it were a settlement ex- 
 clusively American, and founded by Americans, capable 
 of being made the nucleus of a great community — that 
 it is a most thriving colony — that it continues the right 
 of possession to the government of the States — that it 
 owes no favour to, and is independent of, the Hudson's 
 Bay Company — that there it stands, and will stand, a 
 memorial of American right — that it is the duty of the 
 American government to protect it ; while it holds out 
 every incentive to industrious and enterprising citizens 
 
120 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 to join it. All this, and much more, has been said and 
 written by gasconading- traders on the passions and weak- 
 ness of the populace, about this vaunted establishment : 
 and has been believed. It is not very surprising that 
 any extravagant story, which flattered the vanity, or ex- 
 cited the hopes or the cupidity of such a people as the 
 Americans, should gain credence in the States ; espe- 
 cially if it be seasoned with bitterness against the 
 " Britishers." Much of this misrepresentation and ex- 
 aggerating nonsense has been believed too in England ; 
 simply because the public could not imagine that state- 
 ments so pertinaciously reiterated could be without, at 
 least, some foundation ; and because no attempts were 
 made by those acquainted with the real state of the case 
 to disabuse the British public of their misconception, on 
 this, and other points of importance ; such as the right of 
 possession. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company, who had the best means 
 of refuting the statements of the United States' writers, 
 evidently despised and disregarded those statements. 
 They were content, not only with the possession of the 
 country, as the chief partners, and with the almost ex- 
 clusive enjoyment of its trade ; but rested on the con- 
 sciousness of their just, moral, and judicious conduct as 
 traders, and occupiers under their right of imperial 
 tenure : and they fairly and naturally concluded that it 
 would tend to throw a doubt on the justice of their claim, 
 if they were to enter into a controversy about it. Their 
 claim they considered to be undeniably just ; and its vin- 
 dication to be the duty of the legislature alone. 
 
 Now the plain history of the origin and progress of 
 this settlement is simply this. 
 
 About seventeen or eighteen years ago, when the set- 
 tlement at Vancouver, as the western head-quarters of 
 the Company, acquired a distinguished and very promi- 
 nent position, and became the rallying-point for all the 
 servants of the Company far and near : when the sur- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 121 
 
 rounding country became well explored ; when, from the 
 long and undisputed possession of it by the Company, it 
 began to be considered by the Company's servants as 
 British land — British, too, as to its climate, and the capa- 
 bilities of the soil — some of the Company's servants, 
 when they had determined to enjoy the tranquillity of 
 independent retirement after their long and arduous ser- 
 vices, fixed on the banks of the Wallamette as their last 
 place of residence ; rather than return to Canada, or 
 Scotland, or England, fi-om which they were weaned by 
 long absence. The Company gave every encouragement 
 for the formation of a settlement, giving them stock, &c., 
 to start with. 
 
 By and by, some of the Company's officers (I may 
 especially mention one — Mr. M'Kay, the well-known and 
 meritorious director of the Rocky Mountain trapping 
 parties) thought this commencement afforded a fair 
 opportunity of becoming settlers, consecutively with the 
 retention of their connexion with the Company, and they 
 opened farms there. The speculation went on thrivingly : 
 and the opinion spread abroad, even to the United States, 
 through means of the American free-trappers, that a 
 rising colony would be soon established in that locality ; 
 and that the success of this, under such powerful auspices 
 as those of the Company, would gradually lead to the 
 colonization of the whole lower region, where it was 
 capable of colonization. This impression the Company's 
 chief officers did not attempt to remove. They, on the 
 contrary, rather wished to affiDrd every encouragement 
 and facility for the progress of improvement and civiliza- 
 tion. 
 
 The Americans, who had already made many attempts 
 to effect a lodgment in the country, but on every occasion 
 failed, either from their want of skill, or of capital, or of 
 integrity in their dealings with the natives — whether 
 they attempted fur trading companies or fishing com- 
 panies — having now seen that a fair opportunity of se- 
 
 11 
 
133 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 curing a possession was opened to them under the Com- 
 pany's shelter, bethought them of despatching mission- 
 aries, with the ostensibly benevolent and Christian view 
 of giving religious culture to the rude, and ill-educated 
 servants of the Company, and the denizens of this grow- 
 ing little community. 
 
 A few missionaries did arrive : and they, as was be- 
 coming their professed purpose, received every encourage- 
 ment and favour from the governor of Fort Vancouver — 
 Dr. M'Loughlin ; and, as became their true purpose, 
 commenced resident farmers — teaching, it is true, the 
 natives the great elements of Christianity, and forms of 
 prayer — but using their gratuitous labour for the cultiva- 
 tion of their fields. These missionaries did not " hide 
 their lamp under a bushel," but, on the contrary, " pro- 
 claimed their light before all men," and sent to the States 
 flattering accounts of their success. The consequence 
 was, that some adventurers, with a little property, were 
 induced to brave the perils of the long and formidable 
 journey (leaving millions of more fertile acres at home, 
 requiring less capital and labour for cultivation) to the 
 Oregon, Some of these settlers came in their real cha- 
 racter of farmers, but they were very few. Others came 
 in the guise of missionaries — such missionaries as their 
 predecessors — men who give a little preaching as an 
 equivalent for much bodily labour performed by the 
 native converts. Some of these have located themselves 
 in other districts : and hence there are, by American 
 writers, given the most pompous accounts — accounts, to 
 those who are acquainted with the real facts, sometimes 
 laughable, and sometimes calculated to excite indignation 
 and disgust — of American settlements. 
 
 While I was stationed at Vancouver, and in the de- 
 tached forts, and in the trading ships, the excessively 
 benevolent encouragement granted by the governor to 
 the new importation of American residents, under the 
 designation of missionary-settlers, used to be freely dis- 
 
ohegon TERRiTOPa'. 123 
 
 cussed. There were two parties — the patriot, and the 
 liberal. The arguments, pro and con, may be summed 
 up thus : the British, or patriots, maintained that the 
 governor was too chivalrously generous — that liis gene- 
 rosity was thrown away, and would be badly requited — 
 that he was nurturing a race of men who would by-and- 
 by rise from tiicir meek and humble position as the 
 grateful acknowledgers of his kindness, into the bold 
 attitude of questioners of his own authority, and the 
 British right to Vancouver itself This party grounded 
 their arguments on an appeal to the conduct and cha- 
 racter of the Americans whom they had seen — especially 
 the free-trappers, and the remnants of the American 
 companies which still dodged about in the country. 
 They did too take into account the missionaries, who 
 were then tried, and who, of course, did every thing in 
 their power to conciliate, at their first appearance on 
 such a new stage, the good opinion of those whose ap- 
 plause or condemnation could retain, or expel them from 
 the scene of their labours, and prospects. This party 
 had a very lively feeling for the improvement of the In- 
 dians in all the arts of civilization, and thought that if 
 any attempts were made for the conversion of the natives 
 to Christianity, and to their adoption of more humanized 
 institutions (which they limited to British institutions), 
 a solid and permanent foundation should be laid — the 
 Indians should not be instructed by halves — a thoroughlj^ 
 lasting system should be adopted towards them ; which 
 would make them not merely professed, but practical 
 Christians. Something more than making them the ob- 
 servers of forms, and the repeaters of prayers, was requi- 
 site, especially as most of the tribes already believed in 
 many of the great cardinal points of Christianity — such 
 as the existence of a good and evil Spirit — the creation 
 of the world by the Good Spirit — the immortality of the 
 soul — a future state of rewards and punishments. They 
 also maintained that the missionaries should be mission- 
 
 ^ 
 
124 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 aries in reality — men looking to the successful termina- 
 tion of their labours as their principal reward — men 
 above the imputation or suspicion of being guided by 
 self-interest, in their exertions — men who would not 
 squat^ as permanent and fixed luisbandmen, and occa- 
 sional traffickers in skins of animals, among the natives, 
 using them as farm-labourers ; but that they should be 
 bona fide pastors of the Christian church — going about in 
 the true spirit of primitive Christianity — instructing the 
 people in the cardinal doctrines of our religion, and in 
 the arts of civilized life. Furthermore, they used to 
 maintain, that, if missionaries at all were to be intro- 
 duced, or sanctioned in the country, this useful class of 
 men — a class calculated to exercise such vital influence 
 over the character and condition of the natives — should 
 come within the direct control of the dominant power, 
 i. e., the British power, and should be tlie countrymen of 
 those who absolutely occupied Oregon. Besides, they 
 used occasionally to launch out against tlie character and 
 institutions of the Americans generally, saying that, 
 while they proclaimed liberty, they practised slavery, in 
 some of its most odious forms, not as individuals merely, 
 but that whole States adopted and defended the practice 
 — that it was then a fraud and a mockery for Americans 
 to profess any anxiety for the amelioration of the Indians, 
 since at home they enslaved and hunted them down, 
 keeping them in irredeemable bondage in the southern 
 states, and driving those who still retained their freedom, 
 in the north, and northwest, to the hills and deserts east 
 of tlie Rocky Mountains. They also used to urge the 
 strong facts of the repeated /«iZ« res of the Americans to 
 secure any extensive possession in the country, and of the 
 general repugnance of the natives to them — repugnance 
 caused by the experience which the natives had of their 
 habits and principles — men wlio had no scruple about the 
 means of making money, and who would, at the caprice 
 of the moment, hang up an obnoxious individual, without 
 judge or jury, by their Lynch, or mob law. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 125 
 
 The other party, which v.'as called the plnlosopliical 
 and the liberal party, did not contravene these general 
 licads of argument. T.hcy admitted that the Americans, 
 not only as individuals, but in communities of whole 
 States, were not exempt from the charge of fraudulency 
 and tyranny ; inasmuch as the Southern States are 
 slaveholders, and some of the wealthiest States openly 
 refuse to pay their debts, though no people treat their 
 own debtor-prisoners more cruelly : — that the half-aposto- 
 lical, and half-agricultural character of the missionaries, 
 was not that best adapted to the purpose and spirit of 
 men going abroad to enligjitcn the heathen ; — that the 
 Americans failed to secure a permanent footing as traders 
 in the country, from the dishonesty of their dealings, and 
 their habit of domineering over the Indians, and corrupt- 
 ing them. But still they asserted that the Americans 
 ouffht not to be excluded, inasmuch as they possessed 
 some claims to the right of occupancy — claims, though 
 feeble, still existing — and, until these were quashed or 
 confirmed, it would be unjust, and impolitic, to exclude 
 them from all possession. The Americans were, it was 
 true, they admitted, holders of slaves at home, and were 
 every day driving the Indians from their native lands ; 
 and, though hypocrites, as to professions of freedom, on 
 that account, yet they could not enslave the Indians of 
 Oregon, or drive them further^oif, when there was British 
 power to check them. 
 
 Though the missionaries were not of the best class, yet 
 the}- were better than none at all ; especially when Eng- 
 land so grossly neglected the natives. Dr. M'Loughlin 
 may have acted indiscreetly, but he acted justly, in sanc- 
 tioning these emigrants. He could not lay an interdict 
 on their arrival ; and even should they turn out as bad as 
 the rest of the motley groups that came from the States, 
 the British residents could not be disappointed. But, 
 above all, good would grow out of evil in the end ; for the 
 Americans, by their intercourse with the British, would 
 11* 
 
126 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 become more humanized, tolerant, and honest. Hence, 
 they said, it was philosophical and liberal to encourage 
 the American missionary squatters. And as to the Ame- 
 rican Lynch law, and other usuagcs which were repug- 
 nant to justice and humanity, they were rather exceptions 
 to the American code, than examples of American prin- 
 ciples of legislation, which, in commercial and civil mat- 
 ters, was, generally speaking, just and humane ; and 
 from which even British legislation derived some useful 
 hints. 
 
 These debates, which embraced various other points, 
 too numerous to detail, would sometimes run high ; and 
 show a great deal of acuteness and general knowledge, — 
 more than would be expected from men v/ho had spent 
 most of their time in the wilderness, and in communion 
 with savages. Tiie Canadians and half-breeds generally 
 sided with the British, or patriot party, and turned the 
 scale. But I must confess, that though, on the whole 
 range of dispute, the patriot party were the victors, yet, 
 on one point, their antagonists had a clear advantage — 
 the neglect of the conversion and civilization of the 
 natives on the part of the home-government and of the 
 British and Foreign Missionary Society, But this sub- 
 ject is more fully treated in another place. 
 
 The residents of this settlement of Wallamettc are a 
 mixed and motley group — retired servants of the Com- 
 pany — American missionary-farmers — some few Ameri- 
 can farmers, not missionaries ; and free trappers, who 
 preferred an easy location on this district, to the exciting 
 and desperate perils of solitary v/andcrinii's amid the hills 
 and deserts, and to occasional residence among the sa- 
 vagcs : several of these latter have squatted there with 
 their Indian wives and children. Tlie residences show 
 different degrees of comfort, according to the property, 
 the intelligence, and industry of the occupiers ; from the 
 rude log-structure, of fifteen or twenty feet square, with 
 the mud-chimney — a wooden bench in place of chairs — a 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 127 
 
 bedstead covered with flag-mats — a few pots, and other 
 trifling- articles, to the large, tolerably well-built, and 
 equipped farai-house ; in which the owners cnjoj^, in 
 rjide plenty, the produce of tolerabl}'^ well-tilled, and well- 
 stocked farms. These spots of cultivated land, of course, 
 vary in extent and quality of culture according to the 
 skill and resources of the ov.'ners. Some farms consist 
 of not more than thirty acres ; some consist of one hun- 
 dred. The best appointed farms are those of the Com- 
 pany's servants. Mr. M'Kay, who has farmed under the 
 Company's sanction, has lately erected a grist-mill, the 
 expense of which is reported to be not less than .£2000. 
 These dwellings do not, properly speaking, constitute a 
 village, but are scattered over a surface of several miles : 
 though some few are clustered together. Most of the 
 missionaries are Episcopalian ]\Iethodists. But half the 
 civilized population, if not more, are Roman Catholics, 
 who have their own priest and their ov^^n chapel. 
 
 The colony has all the appurtenances of a settlement — 
 school-houses — chapels — an hospital — a meeting-house — 
 granaries, &;c. But though there is a considerable ex- 
 tent of land under cultivation, yet the whole is not per- 
 haps more extensive than the Company's single farm at 
 Vancouver; and in point of management, and approxi- 
 mation to true farming (according to English principles 
 and notions), cannot be even remotely compared to it. 
 
 Lieutenant Wilkes, who conducted the Exploring 
 Expedition appointed by the American government, vi- 
 sited this settlement ; and in his report, lately published 
 by authority, sa5'^s, — " About sixty families are settled 
 there, the industrious of whom appear to be thriving. 
 They are composed of American missionaries, trappers, 
 and Canadians, who were formerly servants of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company. All of them appeared to be 
 doing well ; but I was, on the whole, disappointed from 
 the reports which had been made to me, not to find the 
 
128 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 settlement in a greater state of forwardness, considering- 
 the advantages which the missionaries liave iiad." 
 
 Now this account of the settlement deserves to be no- 
 ticed. He says that the nmnber of families settled there 
 vs'as sixty — not more. Of these, many were British sub- 
 jects ; so that the number of subjects of the United States 
 was inconsiderable. The American missionaries were 
 merely speculating small farmei-s. All were not thriving : 
 but only the industrious portion. This, together with his 
 mention of disappointment, and of the reports made to 
 him, clearly shows that there were circulated in the 
 States, exaggerated accounts of the prosperity and im- 
 portance of the colony ; and false inducements held out 
 to citizens, to emigrate thither ; and to the Federal go- 
 vernment, to sustain its rights even at the risk of a 
 quarrel with Great Britain, in defence of this fancied 
 American colony — rights which were not, and are not, 
 invaded ; and are not meant to be invaded by the Com- 
 pany. This admission, too, which is involved in his ac- 
 count, is the more worthy of notice, considering the dis- 
 position which this gentleman shows, to represent to his 
 government the Oregon territory as a prize, even in an 
 agricultural point of view, worth contending for ; as 
 appears from the extravagance of his general picture, in 
 his summing up. He says : — 
 
 " To conclude ; few portions of the globe, in my opi- 
 nion, are so rich in soil, so diversified in surface, or so 
 capable of being rendered the happy home of an industri- 
 ous and civilized community. For beauty of scenery, 
 and salubrity of climate, it cannot be surpassed. It is 
 peculiarly adapted for an agricultural and pastoral people : 
 and no portion of the world, beyond the tropics, can be 
 found that will yield so readily, with moderate labour, to 
 the wants of man." 
 
 All this he asserts, although it appears from his whole 
 previous statement, that from the nature of the soil and 
 climate, he considered at least one half of the territory 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 129 
 
 unfit for agriculture. With respect to the entire of the 
 eastern section, he says, " The temperature during the 
 day, differing from 50^ to 60°, renders it unfit for agri- 
 culture ; and there are but few places in its northern 
 parts, where the climate would not effectually put a stop 
 to its ever becoming settled. In each day, according to 
 the best accounts, all the changes are experienced, which 
 are incident to spring, summer, autumn, and winter. 
 There are places where small farms might be located, 
 but they are/ttr in number." 
 
 Mr. Farnham, tiie latest American writer, though an 
 undisguised partisan — a rampant anti-Britisher — and 
 anxious to place the capabilities and value of the country 
 in the most favourable view before his fellow-citizens, 
 cannot avoid dissenting from Mr. Wilkes's concluding 
 remarks. He says, " It will be seen on reference to 
 them, that the agricultural capabilities of Oregon are 
 placed above those of any part of the world, beyond the 
 tropics. This is a most surprising conclusion — at war 
 with his own account of the several sections which he 
 visited ; and denied by every intelligent man living in 
 the country. What ! Oregon in this respect equal to Ca- 
 lifornia, or the Valley of the Mississippi 1" 
 
 I beg to quote from Mr. Farnham, who visited this set- 
 tlement, the following passage. Alluding to the mis- 
 sionaries, he says, " their object in settling in Oregon, I 
 understood to be twofold — the one, and principal, to civi- 
 lize and Christianize tlie Indians — the other, and not less 
 important, the establishment of religious and literary in- 
 stitutions, for the benefit of the white emigrants. Their 
 plan of operation on the Indians, is to learn their various 
 languages, for the purpose of itinerant preaching, and of 
 teaching the young the English language. The scholars 
 are also instructed in agriculture, the regulations of a 
 well-established household, reading, writing, arithmetic, 
 and geography." 
 
 Then it appears, these missionaries were encouraged 
 
130 OREGOX TERRITORY. 
 
 to settle in the country, in order that they may open the 
 way, and hold out inducements, for an influx of emi- 
 grants from the States. No doubt their publislied pros- 
 pectus of benefits to come is highly imposing ; and their 
 promised zeal and efficiency are very great, until they 
 come to be tested : but the following passage brings down 
 their disinterestedness, as disseminators of religion, and 
 their prosperity as an agricultural community, to a low 
 standard. 
 
 " They have many hundred acres of land under the 
 plough ; and cultivated chiefly by the native pupils. 
 They have more than a hundred head of horned cattle ; 
 thirty or forty horses ; and many swine. They have 
 granaries filled with wheat, oats, barley, and peas ; and 
 cellars v>^ell stored with vegetables." 
 
 This shows, tliat from their using the native pupils as 
 labourers, they did not mean to dispense their blessings 
 without receiving a little consideration — that they are not 
 altogether spiritual in their motives, and mode of life : 
 and their many hundred acres of land under the plough ; 
 their maximum stock of horned cattle ; and thirty or 
 forty horses, are no great signs of their rising greatness ; 
 especially when it is considered that they have been now 
 located for many years in the country ; and had, as Mr. 
 Wilkes — the organ of the federal government — assures 
 us, " many advantages" — v»'hich means, that they re- 
 ceived all American support, especially from the funds of 
 the missionary society of Boston, in order to effect Ame- 
 rican purposes. 
 
 It is well wortli v.-liilc to quote here Mr. Wilkes. Un- 
 der the general head of " Missionaries''^ (and he indeed 
 weighs in the balance the entire class — not those of the 
 W^allamette settlement alone, but those too scattered 
 about in other localities), he says, " Little has as yet 
 been effected by them in Christianizing the natives. 
 They are principally engaged in t!ie cultivation of the 
 mission farms, and in the care of their own stock ; in 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 131 
 
 order to obtain flocks and herds for themselves. As far 
 as my observation went, in the parts of the country 
 where the missionaries reside, there are few Indians to 
 eng-age their attention ; and they seemed more occupied 
 with the settlement of the country, and in agricultural 
 pursuits, than in missionary labours." 
 
 Every word of this is undeniably true: and not the 
 least remarkable and important part of the statement is 
 the accident (query, fortuitous?) of their having selected 
 localities for residence, where they had no spiritual flocks 
 to tend. 
 
 But though they have not as yet thriven as well as 
 Mr. Wilkes expected, yet Mr. Farnham, in the following 
 paragraph, threatens the execution of great projects; and 
 holds out the hope tliat they will, by and by, erect a com- 
 munity, with all the concomitant institutions, worthy of 
 the mother republic. It is true, the paragraph, from its 
 boast and magniloquence, will appear, to sober English- 
 men, ridiculous ; but it is quite characteristic ; and is 
 well calculated to foster the pleasing and voluntary delu- 
 sion of American vanity — the purpose for which it was 
 designed. 
 
 " A site had been already selected for an academical 
 building. A court of Justice had been organized by the 
 popular voice. A mililary corps was about to be formed 
 for the protection of settlers — and other measures were 
 in progress : at once showing that the American, with 
 his characteristic energy and enterprise ; and the philan- 
 thropist, with his holy aspirations for the improvement of 
 the human condition — had crossed the snowy barrier of 
 the mountain ; to mingle with the dashing waves of the 
 Pacific seas, the sweet music of a busy and virtuous civi- 
 lization" ! ! ! 
 
 He then gives a sketch of the plucky patriotism of the 
 settlers : — 
 
 " During my stay here, several American citizens 
 called on me, to talk of their father-land ; and inquire as 
 
132 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 to the probability that its laws would be extended over 
 them. The constantly-repeated inquiries were, ' why arc 
 we left without protection in this part of our country's 
 dominion ? — why axe foreigners to domineer over Ameri- 
 can citizens — drive their traders from the country — and 
 make us as dependent on them for the clothes we wear, 
 us their own apprenticed slaves V I could return no an- 
 sv.^er to these questions, exculpatory of this national de- 
 linquency ; and therefore advised them to embody their 
 grievances in a petition to Congress. They had a meet- 
 ing for that purpose : and afterwards put into my hand a 
 petition, signed by sixty-seven citizens of the United 
 States, and persons desirous of becoming such — the sub- 
 stance of which was a description of the country — their 
 unprotected situation — and, in conclusion, a prayer that 
 the Federal government would extend over them the pro- 
 tection and institutions of the republic. Five or six of 
 the settlers had not an opportunity to sign the paper. 
 The Catholic priest refused to do it." 
 
 Setting aside the silly abusiveness, and anti-British 
 animus evinced in the whole paragraph, and especially in 
 the application of the epithet slaves to the apprentices 
 and agents of the Hudson's Bay Company, the reader 
 cannot fail to observe the important fact, that, notwith- 
 standing all the zeal of the settlers and of Mr. Farnham, 
 and all the efforts to make a demonstration, the peti- 
 tioners to Congress were not more than sixty-seven — edu- 
 cated and uneducated — civilized, half-breeds, and wild 
 trappers, with their Indian wives. Even all these were 
 not citizens, but embraced " persons desirous of becoming 
 such." How many the latter class consisted of he does 
 not say. If the number was at all important he would 
 not fail to mention it. But suppose these were all Ame- 
 ricans ; add to them the five or six settlers who had no 
 opportunity of signing this petition, and who, it is fair to 
 presume, were Americans, yet the aggregate could not 
 exceed eighty souls. Now as this petition was evidently 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 133 
 
 a got lip affair (for this gentleman went to the settlement 
 with American colours flying — there were harbingers to 
 herald his arrival, as a great American writer and cham- 
 pion, visiting them in order to inspect their condition, 
 and improve it), it is to be regretted that he did not give 
 us an assurance whether the sixty-seven names were the 
 bonajide names of persons come to the age of discretion ; 
 no matter whether the petitioners could write their own 
 names or not. But let it be conceded, that every one of 
 the sixty.seven was a full grown man, of mature under- 
 standing, wishing to retain the privileges of citizenship, 
 and receive the exclusive protection of the Federal go- 
 vernment ; yet the whole matter is a clear admission of 
 the insignificance of the settlement (so far as its Ameri- 
 canism is concerned), and of the fallacious representa- 
 tions industriously propagated about it, with the view of 
 giving factitious importance to American rights and 
 American possession. He says the Catholic priest re- 
 fused to sign the petition. No doubt he did ; and pru- 
 dently too ; for he knew well, that he was sufficiently free 
 and secure already ; and that it would not be clearsight- 
 edness to surrender the steady light and certainty of Bri- 
 tish freedom and protection, for the will-o'-the-wisp of 
 expected American licentiousness. 
 
 Now Mr. Wilkes gives a quietus to all these lamenta- 
 tions about the absence of republican laws and federal 
 protection, in these plain terms : " When there, I made 
 particular inquiries whether laivs were necessary for 
 their protection : and I feel assured that they require 
 none at present, besides the moral code which it is their 
 own duty to inculcate." He next adds, " The Catholic 
 portion of the settlement are kept under good control by 
 their priest." This little paragraph is doubly significant, 
 as showing the reason why the priest did not consider 
 that his flock required these American laws and institu- 
 tions, and showing the marked contrast between the 
 12 
 
134 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 priest, who effected much for his congregation, and the 
 Methodist missionaries, who effected but little. 
 
 But Mr. Farnham is somewhat inconsistent with him- 
 self, as men generally are who become partisans — take i\ 
 distorted view of things — and labour only to carry a 
 point, and bespatter their adversaries. After his elaborate 
 eulogy of the noble objects and successful labours of the 
 missionaries, in improving the moral condition of the 
 natives ; and after holding forth glov/ing prospects of the 
 rising greatness of the settlement, — in as much as they 
 had already selected a site for an academical building — 
 organized a court of justice — were about to form a mili- 
 tary corps, for the protection of the settlers ; and after 
 his talking so poetically about the American " enterpriser 
 and philanthropist mingling the dashing waves of the 
 Pacific seas, with the sweet music of busy and virtuous civi- 
 lization ;" after all this, he descends rather awkwardly and 
 suddenly from his high position, and, in plain terms, says : 
 
 " The civil condition of t!ie territory being such as 
 virtually to prohibit the emigration^ to any extent, of 
 useful and desirable citizens, they have nothing to an- 
 -ticipate from any considerable increase of their numbers, 
 nor any amelioration of tlieir state to look for, from the 
 accession of female society. In the desperation incident 
 to their lonely lot, they take wives from the Indian tribes 
 around them." 
 
 Then if there is likely to bg no extensive emigration of 
 useful and desirable citizens, there cannot be much of the 
 sweet music of a busy and virtuous civiliza,tion, and no 
 great need of academical buildings, and a military corps 
 for the protection of settlers ; though there may be for a 
 court of justice, as the settlers, it would appear, from the 
 absence of useful and desirable citizens, must be a class 
 among whom sucli an establishment would be desirable, 
 The present settlers are useful and desirable citizens, or 
 they are not. If they are, why may there not be an acces- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 135 
 
 sion to their numbers from the States ? If they are not, 
 what is the vise of the boasted missionaries? Why do 
 not these men labour to render them useful and moral? 
 
 He further says, " Tlie reader will tind it difficult to 
 learn any sufficient reasons for their being left without 
 the institutions of civilized society !" Now there are the 
 institutions of British society, and laws in full force, in 
 the country ; and of which they have the benefit and 
 protection. But as we were before told that the officers 
 and other employees of the Hudson's Bay Company were 
 " apprenticed slaves," so now it is not surprising- that 
 British institutions should be denied to be those of civi- 
 lized society. 
 
 But the crowning- hardship of the American citizens in 
 Oregon, it seems, is that they must pay their debts in- 
 curred to the British, and are liable to punishment for 
 the commission of crimes. 
 
 He says, " Their condition is truiy^ deplorable. They 
 are liable to be arrested for debt or crime, and conveyed 
 to the jails of Canada. For in that case the business of 
 British subjects is interfered with, who, by way of reta- 
 liation, will withhold the supplies of clothing, household 
 goods, &c,, which the sfettlers have no other means of 
 obtaining." This certainly is a cool mode of claiming a 
 license for the free citizens to cheat, and injure their 
 neighbours with impunity. So forsooth it is but a mere 
 interference with the business of British subjects to rob 
 them; and it is a great hardship if the British withhold 
 supplies from the Americans when they refuse to pay 
 them. Had" any Englishman said, or written, that this 
 was the opinion of the Americans in Oregon, or out of 
 it, he would be denounced as a prejudiced misrepresenter. 
 But here the opinion is broadly avowed, by the organ of 
 the democratic and dominant part}"- in the United States. 
 
 It is necessary to mention two rivers to the south of 
 the Waliamette, which flow through the same fertile and 
 picturesque section of the country as the Waliamette 
 
136 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 does (that section which is encircled by the Columbia 
 ridge of hills on the north — by the ridge which runs along 
 the shores of the Pacific on the west — by the towerins:" 
 Klamet range on the south — and by the southern links of 
 the President's range on the east.) These rivers are the 
 Umqua and Klamet. 
 
 The Umqua runs into the Pacific in nearly a westerly 
 direction, from its source in the President's range ; and 
 is lined for about a hundred miles by precipitous and 
 rocky banks, covered with woods. It is nearly a mile 
 wide at its mouth, and about three fathoms deep. The 
 tide runs up about thirty miles ; and is then checked by- 
 rapids and cataracts, which are to be found, even when 
 the lower cataracts are passed, up the course of the river 
 to its mountain source. Its entire length is about one 
 hundred and seventy miles. 
 
 Perhaps, on the face of the earth, there are not larger 
 specimens of the pine tree than can be found here. Some 
 of these trees are two hundred and fifty feet high, and 
 fifty feet in girth. The seed vessels, which are oval, arc 
 often more than a foot long, and the seeds are as large as 
 a castor bean. I have seen some of these seeds brought 
 to the fort that, from my observation of the many pretty 
 things exhibited in the British Museum as curiosities, 
 would, if exhibited there, be considered absolute iconders. 
 I ought to say, that the largest pine trees do not yield 
 the hardest, closest, and most valuable wood for use. 
 Cedar trees are there often twenty-six feet in girth, and 
 high in proportion ; and the gardens attached to the 
 Company's fort produce turnips, often five pounds in 
 weight each. Indeed, the natural capabilities of ihe soil 
 are surprising. 
 
 The Klamet, further south, runs nearly due west from 
 the President's range into tlie Pacific, about fifty miles 
 south of the Umqua, after a course of about one hundred 
 and fifty miles. Tliis is tlic most southerly river of any 
 note in the whole region, and the one that may be called 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 137 
 
 the natural inland water-boundary, on the southwest, 
 between Oregon and California. 
 
 Two peculiarities of the country around and near its 
 banks, deserve notice. First, the face of the country is 
 less undulating, and the country itself seems to rise 
 higher in its agricultural and pastoral capabilities ; and 
 secondly, the enormous pine and cedar trees gradually 
 disappear, and groves of short myrtle, which diffuse a 
 most delicious fragrance, line the banks, and beautifully 
 dot the country. 
 
 The Company have a settlement near the mouth of the 
 Umqua, and have there commenced forming establish- 
 ments, which promise (considering the great fecundity of 
 the soil, and the genial and salubrious character of the 
 climate,) if pushed on with the usual vigour and judg- 
 ment exhibited in other establishments, farther to the 
 north, where soil and climate have been comparatively 
 unfavourable, to succeed amazingly. 
 
 As Mr. Farnham loses no opportunity of (to use an 
 American phrase) making a slap at the Britishers in 
 general, and the Hudson's Bay Company in particular — 
 although he acknowledges the kind and hospitable enter- 
 tainment which he received at Fort Vancouver, — he treats 
 his readers to the following accusation. Speaking of a 
 Captain Young, an American, who, after failing in many 
 trading speculations in the west of the continent, settled 
 as a smali farmer in VVallamette district, and whom he 
 designates as the " excellent old captain," he says, " He 
 related to me many incidents of his hardships, among 
 which the most surprising was that the Hudson's Bay 
 Company refused to sell him a shred of clotliing, and as 
 there were no other traders in the countr)'^ he was com- 
 pelled, during their pleasure, to wear skins. A false re- 
 port that he had been guilty of some dishonourable acts 
 in California was the alleged cause for this treatment. 
 But perhaps a better reason v:ould he that Mr. Young 
 occasionally purchased beaver skins in the American ter- 
 12* 
 
138 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 ritory." To assert a false fact is bad enougli, but to 
 follow it up by gratuitously hazarding a false opinion in 
 support of it, is most reprehensible and unjustifiable. 
 Tiie Company, so long as this man conducted himself 
 properly as a free trader, gave him every assistance. Of 
 his alleged dishonourable conduct in California, and other 
 places (though reports very much to his discredit were 
 confidently circulated about him, and by his own coun- 
 trymen, who had no inducement to accuse liim falsely), 
 the Company took no cognizance. They judged of him 
 as they had experience of him. The Company inter- 
 dicted, all through their range of operations in the Oregon, 
 the use of spirituous liquors, as an article of trade among 
 the natives, from a knowledge of its injurious influence 
 upon them, or as an article of general use and luxury 
 among their servants. Young, thinking a trade in spirits 
 would be a good speculation, set up a distilleiy, and 
 began to induce, not alone the natives, but the servants 
 of the Company, to deal with liim. Vv'hen the Company 
 expressed their disapproval of this and (Uher proceedings, 
 he commenced an agitating course among the settlers, 
 and defied the Company. The Company then quietly 
 left him to his own resources. As to the insinuation 
 which Mr. Farnham makes tliat the gravemen of his 
 offence was his trading in American territory, as if 
 Oregon was exclusively such, the reader can easily draw 
 his own inference : — it was intended to work a purpose' 
 in tlie States. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 139 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 General ouliine of ihe Oregon Territory. 
 
 The natural limits of this extensive and important re- 
 gion, are strictly defined by nature. On the west, it is 
 bounded, along its whole length, by the Pacific Ocean, 
 and is indented by numerous bays and inlets — on the 
 south, by the fertile country of California, and the Klamet 
 range of hills, which are an offshoot from the Rocky 
 Mountains, and run in a pai-allcl of 42° — on the whole of 
 the east line, by the main ridge of the towering Rocky 
 Mountains — and on the north, as the boundary between 
 it and the Russian territories, by many spurs from the 
 Rocky Mountains, and by a chain of lakes and rivers. 
 
 The extent of the whole region in its widest sense, is 
 about four times the area of Great Britain. It is re- 
 markable, that all the rivers which flow through this ter- 
 ritory, take their rise and are emptied within these limits; 
 so that it may be said, that it scarcely has any natural 
 communication with any other country. It extends from 
 latitude 42° to that of 54° nortli. For beauty of scenery, 
 salubrity of climate along the Pacific, and general adapta- 
 tion for commerce, it can scarcely be surpassed by any- 
 country in the world. There are, too, in many places, 
 great fertility of soil, and agricultural capabilities. 
 
 The natural character of the whole country, is a suc- 
 cession of mountain ridges, and valleys, and plains ; and 
 though there are many fertile districts within it, espe- 
 cially towards the ocean, yet it may be safely averred, 
 that as a whole, it is not favourable for agricultural culti- 
 vation. 
 
 It is, in a word, chiefly valuable for trade ; and for the 
 advantages of the Columbia, and other maritime stations, 
 
140 OR EG ex TEPvRITOny. 
 
 to tiie nortii ; wliicli secure for tJie possessors a command 
 of the Northern Pacific, and an easy way to China. Of 
 this the Americans are fully aware ; and hence their ex- 
 traordinary anxiety, and exertions to effect a lodgment 
 there. Hence too their exag-g-erated claims — their mis- 
 representations — contemptible bluster ; and impotent me- 
 naces. 
 
 Though their writers and speakers have been for years 
 deceiving, not alone the British public, but even their 
 own ; by holding forth the country as a new paradise, in 
 the remote wilderness of the west, to which the Ame- 
 ricans alone had an undisputed right, while it was 
 wrongfully invaded by the " grasping ?aid oppressive 
 Britishers;" and most criminally inciting the ignorant 
 populace to raise a ferment throughout the whole confe- 
 deration ; in reference to the questioned — and indeed 
 most questionable — claim of the Americans to the terri- 
 tory ; and inciting their countrymen to encounter almost 
 incalculable privations and hazards, in order to fix settle- 
 ments in the country : yet the knowing ones of them must 
 have been all along sensible that it is valuable mainly for 
 trade. 
 
 As nature has given the country external boundaries, 
 of mountain, sea, lake, and river : so it may be inter- 
 nally divided into three natural sections. 
 
 First. The w^estern section ; lying between the Pacific 
 Ocean, and Cascade Mountains — sometimes called Presi- 
 dent's Range, This range runs parallel with the coast, 
 the whole length of the territory, from north to south, 
 rising in many places in high peaks, from twelve thou- 
 sand to sixteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. 
 Their distance from the coast varies from one hundred 
 and twent}'^ to one hundred and fifty miles. 
 
 Second. The middle section, lying between the Cascade 
 Mountains on the west, and the Blue Mountain range, on 
 the east. The Blue Mountains are much broken ajid 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 141 
 
 Third. The eastern section, which extends from the 
 zigzag line of the Blue Mountains to the chain of the 
 Rocky Mountains. Though each division or section may- 
 be said to be separated from another, there are numerous 
 communications between them by the large rivers, valleys, 
 and passes. Thus, while the country is divided into parts, 
 yet these parts are bound and consolidated by one vast 
 belt of external boundary. 
 
 Mountains. — The Cascade Range, as being that which 
 bounds the western section of the country, and the most 
 fertile and valuable section, is the most interesting and 
 important range. Its northern termination may be taken 
 from Mount Elias : it diverges thence eastward ; and 
 winds afterwards southward, to the Gulf of California ; 
 showing, along its course, numerous lofty peaks ; and, 
 like most of the other mountains, strong signs of volcanic 
 action, at a remote period. The American writers and 
 authors give many of these peaks the names of American 
 presidents. Says Mr. Farnham, in his usual gasconading- 
 style, " All the principal peaks should bear the names of 
 those distinguished men, whom the suffrages of the people 
 that own Oregon (!) have from time to time called to ad- 
 minister their national government." 
 
 Hence we have, from north to south, on American au- 
 thority. Mounts Tyler, — Harrison, — Van Buren, — Adams, 
 — Washington, — Jefferson, — Madison, — Monroe, — Quin 
 cy Adams, — Jackson ; names that are, for the most part, 
 new to the Britishers. 
 
 But, however, as they designate certain distinct coni- 
 cal eminences, I adopt them for the present purpose. 
 
 Mount Tyler lies in latitude forty-nine, and about 
 thirty miles from the eastern waters of Vancouver's 
 Island. Mount Harrison, about thirty miles east of Pa- 
 get's Sound. Mount Van Buren, on the isthmus between 
 Paget's Sound and the Pacific. Mount Adams, about 
 twenty-five miles north of the Cascades of the Columbia. 
 Mount Washington, about twenty miles south of the Cas 
 
142 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 cades. This is the loftiest peak of all, and i:* about six- 
 teen thousand feet high. Aiount Jackson is the most 
 southern peak of the range, lying in latitude forty-one, 
 beyond the southern boundary of the Oregon. 
 
 These heiglits present a general sameness of appear- 
 ance and character. Tiiey are covered with snow, and 
 their sides are in general bare, rocky, and precipitous. 
 This chain of mountains runs almost parallel with the 
 Rocky Mountains ; and, at an average, is about four hun- 
 dred miles distant from them ; so that the main breadth 
 of the country, from the Rocky Mountains to the ocean, 
 is, on a loose calculation, about five hundred miles. The 
 hills intervening between these towering conical moun- 
 tain peaks arc covered, from bottom to top, with forests 
 of enormous trees — consisting of pine, fir, cedar, «Sl,c. 
 Many of these present a bare shaft of two hundred feet 
 high, before a limb shoots off; and near the base have a 
 circumference of from six to eight fathoms. On the nortli 
 side of the Columbia, near the Cascades, there runs west- 
 ward a spur, varying from one thousand to fifteen bun- 
 dred feet high above the river, from this great chain, 
 covered with the huge trees indigenous to the country, 
 as far as Cape Disappointment. This spur commences 
 near Mount Adams. On the south side of the river a 
 smaller spur, commencing at the Cascades, runs, from 
 near Mount Washington, westward as far as Fort George ; 
 so that the Columbia, from the Cascades almost to its 
 mouth, runs through a deep valley, of unequal breadth, 
 walled in by high mountains. These two parallel spurs 
 decline in altitude westward. Again, there is another 
 range of mountains, running along the brink of the Paci- 
 fic coast from Upper California, northward as far as the 
 Straits of Fuca. TJiis range is, for the most part, a bare 
 and barren ridge of dark rocks. But the eastern sides of 
 the southern portion are covered witli heavy timber, sucir 
 as pine, fir, spruce, &c. 
 
 That portion of the Oregon which is bounded on tlic 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 143 
 
 north by the Cohimbia — by the President's Range on the 
 cast — by the Californian boundary on the south — and by 
 the Pacific on the west, is by far the most fertile, and 
 beautiful, and genial ; and, in truth, not only compara- 
 tively with the other parts of the region is it so, but it is 
 so abstractedly. Though undulating and broken in its 
 surface, it may be designated as a vast rich plain, em- 
 bedded within a circle of mountains : for on the west it 
 is guarded by the Pacific ridge of mountains — on the 
 south by the Klamet Range of the towering, snow-capped 
 mountains, on the east by the rocks of the President's 
 Range — and on the north by the Columbian hills. This 
 vast valley possesses every facility for pasturage, and 
 every capability for cultivation. The land is in general 
 open — delightfully interspersed with clumps and groves 
 of trees — well stocked with deer, elk, and all sorts of 
 game ; and is studded with small lakes, and rivers, which 
 yield, in innumerable quantities, all sorts of fish. 
 
 The principal rivers are the Wallamette, the Umqua, 
 and Klamet; which, with the productiveness of the soil, 
 have been already noticed. 
 
 Rivers. — The principal river is the Columbia, which 
 rises in the Rocky Mountains, in latitude 50° north, and 
 longitude 116° west; and during its course to the ocean, 
 receives a great number of large tributary streams. After 
 receiving Canoe River, and flowing in a southwesterly 
 direction, and expanding into a line of lakes ; it receives 
 at Fort Colville, the River Colville, which rises in the 
 Rocky Mountains, and takes a northwesterly direction. 
 At Colvill§, it is two thousand five hundred feet above the 
 level of the sea. To the south of this, it winds to the 
 westward, receiving the Spokan River from the east. 
 Thence it pursues a westerly course for about sixty 
 miles ; and at its bend to the south, it is joined by the 
 Okanagan — a river that has its source in a line of lakes, 
 affording boat-navigation for a considerable extent north- 
 ward. Thence it passes to the southward, until it reaches 
 
144 OREGON TERRITOr.Y. 
 
 Wallawalla, in the latitude of 45^ ; receivin;^, among 
 other streams, its great southeastern branch, the Snake 
 River, called also the Saptin or Lewis River, which has 
 its source in the Rocky Mountains. Though this latter 
 river flov^'s a distance of five hundred miles, and brings a 
 vast accession of water to the Columbia, yet, from its nu- 
 merous shallows, rapids, and eddies, it is not navigable 
 for any continued extent. At Wallawalla, the Columbia 
 is one thousand two hundred and eighty-six feet above 
 the level of the sea, and about three thousand five hun- 
 dred feet wide. It thence takes its last turn, to the west- 
 ward, pursuing its rapid course for eighty miles, until it 
 reaches the range of the Cascade Mountains. Through 
 these it flows in a series of falls and rapids, that form in- 
 surmountable barriers to the passage of boats during the 
 floods. However, these difficulties are overcome by por- 
 tages. From thence there is a still-water navigation, for 
 forty miles ; when its course is again obstructed by rapids. 
 Thence to the ocean — one hundred and twenty miles — it 
 is navigable for vessels of twelve feet draught of water, 
 at the lowest state of the river. In this part, it receives 
 the Wallamette from the south, and the Cowlitze from 
 the north. The former is navigable for small vessels, for 
 twenty miles, to the mouth of the Klackamus ; the latter 
 is navigable only for canoes and barges. 
 
 The next river in importance is Frazer's River. It 
 takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, near the source of 
 Canoe River, taking a northwest course of eighty miles. 
 It then turns to the southward, receiving Stuart's River, 
 which rises in a chain of lakes in the northern Jjoundary 
 of the territory. It then pursues a southerly course ; and 
 after receiving many tributaries, breaks through the Cas- 
 cade range of hills, in a series of falls and rapids ; and 
 after a westerly course of seventy miles, empties itself 
 into the Gulf of Georgia, in latitude 49° 7' north. This 
 latter portion is navigable for vessels that can pass its 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 145 
 
 bar drawing- ten feet of water. Its whole length is three 
 hundred and fifty miles. 
 
 The principal rivers are rapid, and sunk much below 
 the level of the country, with perpendicular banks, speak- 
 ing generally. During the seasons of the rise, they fre- 
 quently overflow their banks, in consequence of bars, 
 and other obstructions, and submerge the adjacent low 
 grounds. These rises are produced by the rains, or the 
 melting of the snow on the upper mountains ; and are 
 sometimes very rapid. The rise in the Columbia takes 
 place in May and June ; and at Vancouver is about 
 twenty feet. The rise in the Wallamette takes place in 
 February. 
 
 There are numerous lakes scattered through the seve- 
 ral sections. The country is all well watered ; and there 
 are but few places where an abundance of water cannot 
 be obtained, either from lakes, rivers, or springs. 
 
 Climate, — The climate of the western division is mild 
 throughout the year — neither the cold of winter, nor the 
 heat of summer, predominating. The mean temperature 
 is about 54°, Fahrenheit. The prevailing winds, in 
 summer, are from the northward and westward ; and in 
 winter, from the west, south, and southeast. The winter 
 lasts from about November till March, generally speak- 
 ing. During that time, there are frequent falls of rain, 
 but not heavy. Snow seldom lies longer than a week on 
 the ground. There are frosts so early as September ; but 
 they are not severe, and do not continue long. The 
 easterly winds are the coldest, as they come from across 
 the mountains ; but they are not frequent. Fruit trees 
 blossom early in April, in the neighbourhood of Nasqually 
 and Vancouver ; and in the middle of May, peas are a 
 foot high, and strawberries in full blossom : indeed, all 
 fruits and vegetables are as early there as in England. 
 The hills, though of great declivity, have a sward to their 
 tops. Lieutenant Wilkes says, that out of one hundred 
 13 
 
146 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 and six days, seventy-six were fair, nineteen cloudy, and 
 eleven rainy. 
 
 The middle section is subject to droughts. During 
 summer, the atmosphere is drier and warmer, and the 
 winter colder, than in the western section : its extremes 
 of heat and cold being greater and more frequent. How- 
 ever, the air is pure and healthy ; the atmosphere, in 
 summer, being cooled by the breezes that blow from the 
 Pacific. 
 
 The eastern section, which runs along the western 
 base of the Rocky Mountains, and partly lies within 
 their winding projections, is extremely variable in cli- 
 mate : all the changes incident to spring, summer, au- 
 tumn, and winter, being sometimes experienced there in 
 a single day. 
 
 Soil. — The soil of the western section varies from a 
 deep black vegetable loam, to a light brown, loamy earth. 
 The hills are generally basalt, stone, and slate. The sur- 
 face is generally undulating, well watered, well wooded, 
 and well adapted for agriculture and pasturage. The 
 timber consists of pine, fir, spruce, oaks (white^and red), 
 ash, arbutus, cedar, arbor-vitae, poplar, maple, willow, 
 cherry, tew ; with underwoods of hazel and roses. All 
 kinds of grain, wheat, rye, barley, oats, and peas, can be 
 procured there in abundance. Various fruits, such as 
 pears, a])ples, &c,, succeed there admirably ; and the dif- 
 ferent vegetables produced in England yield there most 
 abundant crops. 
 
 The middle section, which is about one thousand feet 
 above the level of the western, is not so well wooded or 
 fertile ; yet in the southern parts of it, where the mis- 
 sionaries have established settlements, they have raised 
 excellent crops, and reared large stocks of cattle. Not- 
 withstanding the occasional cold, their cattle are not 
 housed, nor is- provender laid in for them in any quantity, 
 the country being sufficiently supplied with fodder in the 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 147 
 
 natural hay that is every wlicre abundant in the prairies, 
 which the cattle prefer. 
 
 The eastern section, froin the coidncss of the climate 
 and comparative sterility of the soil, which is much im- 
 pregnated with salts, is but little adapted for cultivation. 
 No attempts at agriculture have been made there, except 
 at Fort Hall. Here, by care, small grains and vegetables 
 have been produced in sufficient quantity to supply the 
 wants of the post ; and the cattle, notwithstanding the 
 severity of the climate, are found to tlirive well, and not 
 to require Iiousing in winter. 
 
 At Nasqually, the Hudson's Bay Company liave a farm 
 which has been recently brought under cultivation. It 
 yields fine crops of wheat, oats, potatoes, peas, &c. It is 
 principally intended for a grazing and dairy farm. They 
 have already one hundred milch cows, and make butter, 
 «fcc., to supply the Russians. They have also brought 
 another farm under cultivation at the Cowlitzc River, 
 about thirty miles from the Columbia. This farm, in 
 1841, produced seven thousand bushels of wheat. In 
 this district several Canadians, and other British subjects, 
 have established themselves ; — work small farms of about 
 fifty acres, and live very comfortably. The Company 
 have also other farms, at the different posts in the inte- 
 rior, all of which are well stocked ; and the produce of 
 the several farms is made a lucrative article of trads 
 (after supplying the wants of their servants) with the 
 Russians. They have also introduced large lierds and 
 flocks from California ; and thus they are gradually cul- 
 tivating the country, and civilizing the natives. 
 
 Mr. Wilkes says, " In comparison with our own coun- 
 try, I would say, that the labour necessary in this terri- 
 tory to acquire wealth or subsistence is in the proportion 
 of one to three ; or in other words, a man must work 
 throughout the year tliree times as much in tiie United 
 States to gain the like competency. The care of stock, 
 which occupies so much time with us, requires no atten- 
 
148 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 tion there ; and on the increase only a man might find 
 support." He further says, " there will be also a demand 
 for the timber of this country, at high prices, throughout 
 the Pacific. The oak is well adapted for ship-timber, 
 and abundance of ash, cedar, cypress, and arbor-vitsB, 
 may be had for other purposes, — building, fuel, fencing, 
 &c." He also adds, " no part of the world affords finer 
 inland sounds, or a greater number of harbours, than are 
 found within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, capable of re- 
 ceiving the largest class of vessels, and without a danger 
 in them which is not visible. From the rise and fall of 
 the tides (eighteen feet) every facility is afforded for the 
 erection of works for a great maritime nation. The 
 country also affords as many sites for water powder as any 
 other." 
 
 On the northern coast there are a number of islands, 
 which belong to the territory. The largest are Vancou- 
 ver Island, which is two hundred and sixty miles long, 
 and filly broad, containing fifteen thousand squares miles, 
 and Queen Charlotte Island, which is one hundred and 
 fifty miles long, and thirty broad, containing four thou- 
 sand squares miles. The climate is mild and salubrious, 
 and the soil well adapted to agriculture. They have also 
 an abundance of fine fish in their waters. Coal, of a 
 very good quality, is found there close by the surface ; 
 and they also contain numerous veins of valuable mine- 
 rals. 
 
 All the rivers abound in salmon of the finest quality, 
 which run twice a year, beginning in May and October, 
 and appear inexhaustible. The Columbia produces the 
 largest. The great fishery of this river is at the Dalles. 
 The last one, on the northern branch of the Columbia, is 
 near Colvillc, at the Kettle Falls ; though salmon are 
 found above this both in the river and its tributaries. In 
 Frazer's River the salmon are very numerous. The bays 
 and inlets abound with several kinds of salmon, sturgeon, 
 cod, carp, sole, flounders, perch, herring, and eels ; also 
 
OREGON TERRITORV. 149 
 
 witli shell-fisli — crabs, oysters, &C, Whales and sea- 
 otter in numbers are found along- the coast, and are fre- 
 quently captured by the Indians in and at the mouth of 
 the Straits of Juan de Fuca. 
 
 Game abounds in the western section, such as elk, 
 deer, antelopes, bears, wolves, foxes, musk-rats, martens. 
 And in the spring- and fall the rivers are covered with 
 geese, ducks, and other water-fowl. Towards the Rocky 
 Mountains buffaloes are found in great numbers. 
 
 From the advantages this country possesses it bids fair 
 to have an extensive commerce, on advantageous terms, 
 with most parts of the Pacific. It is well calculated to 
 produce the following staple commodities — furs, salted 
 beef and pork, fish, grain, flour, wool, hides, tallow, tim- 
 ber, and coals ; and, in return for these — sugars, coffee, 
 and other tropical productions, may be obtained at the 
 Sandwich Islands. Advantages that, in time, must be- 
 come of immense extent. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Astoria, or Fort George. 
 
 As the Americans have vaunted much about tliis set- 
 tlement at the mouth of the Columbia, I shall give its 
 history briefly. 
 
 Astoria, (now Fort George,) was founded in 1811 by 
 Mr. Astor. This gentleman was a German, born near 
 Heidelberg, on the b?.nks of the Rhine. His parents 
 were humble agriculturalists. He quitted his native vil- 
 lage ; and afler residing some time in London, went, as 
 an adventurer, to the United States. There he met a 
 countryman of his, who had some knowledge of the fur 
 trade ; and by his recommendation he was induced to 
 embark in this species of commercial enterprise. From 
 13* 
 
150 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 small beginnings, he gradually rose to considerable im- 
 portance as a fur trader ; and became a bold and active 
 speculator. It is unnecessary to detail the stages of his 
 gradual progress and success ; but in 1 809 he obtained 
 (after several ineffectual attempts had been made by the 
 Americans, to secure a monopoly of this North-American 
 trade) a charter from the legislature of the State of New 
 York, incorporating a company, under the name of " The 
 American Fur Company." He himself, however — ac- 
 cording to his biographer, Washington Irving — in fact, 
 constituted the company ; for though he had a board of 
 directors, they were merely nominal. 
 
 In 1811, he founded a settlement near the mouth of the 
 river, which was called Astoria, his object being, accord- 
 ing to Washington Irving, " to carry the fur trade across 
 the Rocky Mountains, and sioeep the PaciJicJ'^ At this 
 time he became naturalized, and was a citizen, from 
 whose imtriotism, energy, and skill, much was expected 
 for the assertion of American rights, and the promotion 
 of American commerce. 
 
 Mr. Astor's plans were certainly well conceived, for 
 extending the trade inland by a line of stationary posts, 
 and rambling parties, from the mouth of the Columbia to 
 the confines of tlie United States ; and coastwise, from 
 California to the Pole — in brief, of monopolizing the 
 traffic of the whole northern continent. One part of his 
 plan was, that a vessel laden with goods for the Indian 
 trade, should every year sail from New York to the Co- 
 lumbia, and, having discharged her cargo at the establish- 
 ment there, take on board the produce of her year's trade, 
 and thence proceed to Canton, bringing back the rich 
 productions of China. Other ships were to be destined 
 for New York and London, as no doubt was entertained, 
 that all the British fur trading companies would be soon 
 blown into thin air by this gigantic American project, 
 and by the superior enterprise, skill, and integrity, of the 
 free citizens I 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 151 
 
 Another part of the plan, Mr. Irving thus describes : — 
 " As in extending the American trade along the coast to 
 the northward, it might come into the vicinity of the 
 Russian Fur Company, and produce a hostile rivalry ; it 
 was part of the plan of Mr. Astor, to conciliate the good- 
 will of that Company, by the most amicable and beneficial 
 arrangements. The Russian establishment was chiefly 
 dependent for its supplies on transient trading vessels 
 from the United States. These vessels were often, how- 
 ever, of more harm than advantage. Being owned by 
 private adventurers, or casual voyagers, who cared only 
 for the present profit, and had no interest in the perma- 
 nent prosperity of the trade, they were reckless in their 
 dealings with the natives, and made no scruple of supply- 
 ing them with fire-arms. The Russian government had 
 made representations to that of the United States, of these 
 malpractices on the part of its citizens ; but as they did 
 not infringe any murdcipal law, our governm-ent could 
 not interfere." 
 
 It is not necessary for me to fix attention here to the 
 testimony borne by a reputable and patriotic, though re- 
 luctant, witness, to the infamous mode of conducting 
 business, adopted by the Americans, at least in those re- 
 gions ; or to the curious fact, that a despotic and semi- 
 barbarous government should have been constrained to 
 make a remonstrance to a professedly free, and boastedly 
 enlightened government, on the infraction by its citizens 
 of the common principles of humane, honest, and liberal 
 dealing. 
 
 When the establishment was once founded, and the 
 Company was in working order, the most extravagant 
 reports were circulated, about the wealth to be found in 
 Columbia by the new adventurers : not a moment, it was 
 said, was to be lost, and consequently, many were lured 
 to the enterprise. 
 
 The first ship chartered by this Company was the Ton. 
 quin, which sailed from New York in September, 1810, 
 
152 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 commanded by Captain Thorn. There were on board a 
 lew British subjects, going out to join the Company. But 
 so inveterate was the anti-British spirit of the captain, 
 that he treated them with every indignity, which led to 
 constant quarrels during the voyage. On arriving at the 
 Falkland Islands, some of the British went on shore. 
 The captain, seeing this, gave orders to sail off; deter- 
 mined to leave them to perish. But a Mr. Robert Stuart, 
 nephew of one oftho.se gentlemen, who luckily remained 
 on board, brought the citizen captain to a sense of humanity 
 and justice, by holding a brace of pistols to his head, and 
 threatening to blow out his brains, unless he took his 
 uncle and his party on board. 
 
 On arriving at the mouth of the Columbia, on the 23d 
 of the following March, the captain, against all remon- 
 strance, as it blew a stiff breeze, sent the chief mate and 
 four men to sound the channel. These all perished. The 
 captain, on the 25th, despatched one of the officers, 
 accompanied by four men, in the jolly boat, to sound 
 again. This boat was also wrecked, but two of the crew 
 escaped miraculously. At last the ship, with great diffi- 
 culty, was worked into Baker's Bay. In July, she was 
 despatched on a coasting and trading excursion northward. 
 Having anchored opposite Newettee, in the vicinity of 
 Nootka, they commenced a brisk trade with the natives. 
 But the captain, by showing a tyrannical disposition, and 
 inflicting chastisement on one or two of the principal 
 Indians, for some trifling oflence, their hostility and 
 revenge became excited. The captain was warned, by 
 his interpreter, and others, of the imprudence and danger 
 of his conduct, but he spurned all advice, and did not 
 relax from his stern conduct. 
 
 In a day or two the natives, with a show of friendship, 
 renewed the trade, and went on board in great numbers, 
 carrying large quantities of furs, and wearing short fur- 
 skin cloaks, contrary to their usual custom. He was 
 again warned of danger ; and he again rejected all advice 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 153 
 
 — expressing his contempt of any attack made by half, 
 naked savages against such a bold crew as his, who had 
 plenty of cutlasses and fire-arms, ranged beloio deck. But 
 he soon found that his arbitrary self-confidence was im- 
 prudent, and that arms ready for use above deck were 
 better than when stowed away below. The Indians 
 began, from their growing crowds, and their conduct on 
 board, to become troublesome ; and he ordered the deck 
 to be speedily cleared. Then a loud lohoop was raised, 
 and from beneath every short cloak was suddenly 
 snatched some formidable weapon, and, before the arms 
 could be procured fi-om below, the captain and the crew 
 were slaughtered on deck, with the exception of three. 
 These three contrived to escape from the ship in a boat, 
 during the melee — having previously set a train to the 
 powder-store. Soon after they quitted the ship, she blew 
 up, and above two hundred of the principal savages 
 perished with her. In the consternation produced by the 
 explosion, among the crews of the numerous boats sta- 
 tioned around the ship, they were enabled to reach shore, 
 but being prevented, by the state of the weather, from 
 getting into the ocean, they were compelled to try an 
 overland journey to Astoria. However, in a couple of 
 days they were all captured, and slaughtered. 
 
 While these sad tidings reached the fort from the 
 Pacific, other news of misadventure reached it from the 
 interior. Their parties having been attacked by the In- 
 dians, failed in either establishing settlements, or securing 
 a profitable trade. Though Mr. Astor had a good head, 
 and spirit for projecting boldly and extensively, he either 
 did not adopt, or could not adopt, the means of securing 
 an eflfective enginery to work out his large and complex 
 plans. In short, to use a vulgar, though very expressive 
 designation, his instruments were "a rum lot.'''' The 
 rise of his Oregon speculation was marked by misconduct 
 and disaster, and its fall was equally inglorious. 
 
 This Company next chartered a ship, which had been 
 
154 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 sent out from America the following year, " the Beaver," 
 freif,'htcd with a rich cargo of furs, and other valuable 
 commodities — the produce of the country — for China, 
 neither expense nor pains iiaving' been spared to equip 
 her so as to make a favourable impression on the Chinese. 
 The Company hugged the sanguine hope tliat they had 
 laid the foundation of a ])ermanent and lucrative trade 
 with that people, and would soon, b}^ spreading the sphere 
 of tljcir operations and settlements along the Pacific, out- 
 rival the British in that market. But their high-blown 
 expectations were dashed all at once, for the disastrous 
 intelligence arrived that war had been declared between 
 Great Britain and America, and that the British had 
 blocked up the Beaver in tVie port of Canton, nay, more, 
 that they had blocked up every foreign port against the 
 Americans. The desperate state of their affairs was now 
 evident. They could hope for no succour by sea — all 
 expectation of return of profits by "the Beaver," to which 
 they mainly trusted, was at an end. They had no com- 
 munication with their fellow-countrymen overland, and 
 even if they had, the delay in announcing their condition 
 and receiving back supplies would be too great; their 
 own resources were fast wasting away : but, above all, as 
 the British flag had swept every sea— occupied every 
 port — and penetrated every inlet, they were in daily 
 apprehension of the arrival of a British force to capture 
 and demolish their settlement, and seize on their persons 
 and property. Their apprehensions were well-grounded, 
 for the British government considered them as enemies, 
 and despatched a sliip-of-war to take possession of Astoria. 
 But they anticipated such a visit, and, before the arrival 
 of the ship, had sold their establishment, whole stock in 
 trade, implements, &,c., to the Northwest Company; some 
 of the members having enlisted in the service of this 
 Company, most of the rest having returned to the States. 
 Thus the settlement was entirely broken up, and the only 
 duty the commander had to perform on his arrival, was 
 to change the name of Astoria into that of Fort George. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 155 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Extension of the British to tlie north of the mouth of the Co- 
 lumbia — Contrast between the British and American mode 
 of trading — Cape Flattery — Native tribes — The country — 
 Settlements at Nasqually and Covvlitze — Frazer's River. 
 
 The extension of the Company's trade northward, along- 
 the line of coast fi'om Cape Flattery, and their establish- 
 ment of a chain of trading'-stations, coastwise and inland, 
 became the necessary consequence of their mercantile 
 importance, enterprise, and rivalry with the few American 
 traders who hovered on those seas, and who, by intro- 
 ducing a sort of buccaneering- commerce with the natives, 
 tended much to the demoralization of the people, and 
 tended but little, eventually, to the profit of tlic Americans 
 themselves. These trading-stations, therefore, were not 
 established more for the objects of trade, than they were 
 for the purposes of civilization, and, while they have 
 fully effected the first purpose, they arc g-radually and 
 surely effecting- the other. The consequence is — what 
 may be expected from the relative position and conduct 
 of the parties — the Americans, who twenty years ago 
 carried on an extensive trade with the natives (though it 
 was not on their side conducted on the soundest prin- 
 ciples of morality) and who had considerable traffic with 
 tlie Russians in their positions beyond the 54th degree of 
 latitude, arc now totally shut out from both. Wliercas 
 tlie British, who have ever dealt liberally and honestly 
 with the natives, have a monopoly of the native trade, 
 :ind have entered into such a contract with the Russians 
 lliat they may he said to have a monopoly of this trade 
 as well. 
 
 In the American mode of commerce with the natives 
 
156 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 there was no unity of purpose — no communion of interest 
 — no fraternity of feeling — no system — no guiding spirit 
 to direct and control it; but it was a loose, dissipated, 
 jealous sort of thing — jealous, not only of British rivalry, 
 but even of American rivalry — and eager to grasp at any 
 article of trade, however worthless, and by any means, 
 however unworthy ; and hence losing the attainment of 
 important objects. But the Company's mode of com- 
 merce was the very reverse. It was conducted on the most 
 judicious and most methodical principles, and was guided 
 by one master spirit, which ruled it even in its minutest 
 operations, and absolutely interdicted the practice of any 
 effort that was repugnant to justice — knowing that this 
 would eventually recoil on themselves, and thus, by their 
 example, holding out, even to their opponents, a practical 
 lesson. 
 
 The Americans were not so much rivals of the Com- 
 pany as they were of one another ; indeed they could 
 never be said to be, in the strict sense of the word, rivals 
 of the Company, for they had not the power, either as to 
 capital, union, or sound notions of trade. I had many 
 opportunities of witnessing this, when I was stationed on 
 the northern posts, or employed in the Company's trading 
 ships on that coast. Some of these maritime American 
 traders, finding their own independent mode of trading a 
 failure, have sold their ships to the Company, and enlisted 
 in it as salaried servants or officers. I may mention one, 
 — Capt. William M'Neil, of Boston, commander of the 
 brig Lama. This gentleman has now, under the Com- 
 pany's principle of giving promotion as the reward of 
 merit, risen to the station of chief-trader. Indeed most 
 of the American traders now feel it their interest, if not 
 guided by any sentiment of humanity, and conscientious 
 duty, to follow in the wake of the Company, — to imitate 
 its honest and prudent mode of dealing, — to conciliate 
 its good opinion by this imitation, and to establish among 
 the natives the persuasion that the white men practise 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 157 
 
 what their religious men inculcate, i. e., honest discharge 
 of the duties of this life, according to which there will be 
 a commensurate reward hereafter. This is the invariable 
 belief of the native tribes ; and, according as the white 
 men swerve from or follow in practice this great maxim 
 of religion — a maxim which is, they say, the foundation 
 of the white man's theology — they despise and hate, or 
 respect and trust them. While I would shrink from 
 attributing to the Americans, as a great national com- 
 munity of civilized men, the infamy of falsifying in prac- 
 tice, their professions of humanity, justice, and freedom, 
 yet I must, as the honest recorder of things as I have 
 seen them, say that the American traders, taken in the ag- 
 gregate, in the Oregon, have not either corresponded with 
 those principles of religion which even their own mission- 
 aries inculcate, or contributed much to raise the moral 
 reputation of white men in the estimation of the natives. 
 Their general conduct has come upon them with the re- 
 tributive justice of its own reward. They are hated and 
 distrusted by the natives, and have lost the great object of 
 their cupidity — the trade. 
 
 Along the coast to the northward, after leaving Colum- 
 bia River, the next important point is Cape Flattery — the 
 southern entrance to Juan de Fuca Straits. The natives 
 inhabiting this part are the Clatset tribe. They have not 
 been so much affected with the fever and ague as the 
 Chinooks, and therefore are more numerous. Salmon, 
 and all kinds of wild-fowl, are plentiful. The natives 
 manufacture some of their blankets from the wool of the 
 wild goat ; which is done with great neatness. The sea- 
 otter is plentiful about these parts. The- mode usually 
 adopted in killing it is this : the natives, or the half- 
 breeds, who now adopt all the customs of the natives, row 
 out to the parts frequented by this animal, whose habits 
 resemble those of the seal. Two men manage the canoe, 
 while a third stands ready : and the moment the otter 
 rises to the surface he is unerringly shot. When he feels 
 14 
 
158 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 himself hit he dives, and the boatmen dart after him, well 
 aware of the direetion he will take ; and keep pace with 
 him until he rises again. Then, unless he floats a dead 
 carcass, he is a second time shot, and the chase is re- 
 newed, until he is at last killed. He is then hauled into 
 the boat. Sometimes a sort of screen is erected on the 
 shore, behind which the marksman lurks, and, wiien the 
 animal comes to bask on the sands or the rocks, he is shot. 
 
 The Clatset Indians disfigure themselves by running 
 bone rings, and other ornaments, through the lower divi- 
 sion of the nose, and flatten their heads similar to the 
 Chinooks and the Indians of the lower Columbia, and 
 exhibit all the leading characteristics. The country here 
 is covered with pine trees. 
 
 The south side of the straits from Cape Flattery takes 
 a southeasterly direction. On the south side, and at some 
 distance from the cape, there is a beautiful harbour, called 
 New Dungeness. The country is high and woody, 
 chiefly covered with pine trees. In the background 
 there are very high mountains, the tops of which are com- 
 pletely enveloped in snow. The land by the shore is lov/ 
 and sandy, although high in the interior ; yet there are 
 beautiful plains, apparently as if they had been cleared by 
 hand, which yield excellent pasturage, and are capable of 
 high cultivation. 
 
 Further along the south shore there is another beautifizl 
 harbour, called by commander Broiighton, Port Discovery ; 
 and as a shelter for this harbour from the northwest v/inds 
 there is an island close by, called Protection Island. The 
 land on this part of the straits abounds with deer and 
 wild-fowl, and the waters with fish. The shores round 
 the harbour are low and sandy, in summer covered with 
 bushes, growing all kinds of berries. The Indians are 
 not numerous ; and, like the Chinooks, are rather dirty, 
 the women bedaubing themselves with salmon oil, and 
 vermilion clay. Besides these harbours there are several 
 beautiful islands, at intervening distances, up the straits. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 159 
 
 Tlic country in tlic neighbourliood of Port Discovery is 
 moderately high, bounded on the west by mountains. 
 The land, from the water-side, rises gradually ; and is 
 generally considered good. The wood is chiefly hemlock, 
 which grows to a great height, pine, poplar, oak, and ash. 
 
 A few miles further up the straits, and from the north 
 shore, there runs an inlet, called Admiralty Inlet. Up 
 along this inlet, the country is beautiful ; displaying 
 plains interspersed with trees. Vancouver says, " To 
 describe the beauties of this region, will, on some future 
 occasion, be a very grateful task to the pen of a skilful 
 panegyrist." The Indians in this neighbourhood resemble 
 the other southern tribes. 
 
 Keeping along the straits, you approach Puget's Sound, 
 running to the southward. Nearly at the southern ex- 
 tremity of this Sound, the Company has stationed a fort, 
 called Fort Nasqually. This place was governed by a 
 Mr. Kitson, in my time : he formerly was a lieutenant in 
 a Canadian regiment, during the last American war, and 
 then obtained distinction. His wife was the daughter of 
 the Red-head chief, M'Donnel ; about whose adventures 
 many stories are told. This fort is surrounded by an ex- 
 tensive prairie country. The Company has a large farm 
 here, for growing wheat, and other kinds of grain, pota- 
 toes, and all sorts of vegetables. They have also esta- 
 blished there an extensive grazing farm, and sheep walk. 
 The land is rather stony, but well adapted for a grazing 
 farm. 
 
 The Company's agricultural and grazing projects here, 
 which are on a large scale, are every day extending and 
 improving. Besides all this, an association has been 
 formed, on a large scale, for the purpose of rearing sheep, 
 and laying the commencement of an extensive foreign 
 wool trade. I have recently had a communication from 
 that country, respecting this settlement ; and the result is 
 very satisfactory. The numerous flocks of sheep arc 
 thriving admirably ; and there is every prospect of large 
 exportations of wool, in a short time. 
 
160 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 Some of the natives here live in the plains, and others 
 on the banks of the Sound. Both these observe a marked 
 aversion to mutual incorporation, and confine themselves 
 to their distinct localities : the plain tribes not approach- 
 ing the Sound ; and the tribes bordering on the Sound not 
 extending their rovings into the plains. This is the 
 general rule. Their habits and food are in conformity 
 with their condition : the one are fishers — the other, 
 hunters, living on roots, dried, pounded, and kneaded into 
 cakes ; and on deer's flesh. AH this country, both mari- 
 time and inland, abounds in all sorts of game — geese, 
 ducks, plovers, partridges, &c. These are not only used 
 for food ; but are bartered with the Company's servants, 
 for articles of use and ornament ; such as blankets, to- 
 bacco, ammunition, and trinkets. 
 
 From this fort, to obviate the necessity of passing up 
 the Sound, then westward along the Fuca Straits, and 
 thence southward to the mouth of the Columbia, and 
 crossing the bar in a vessel, there is a portage way across 
 the land: the distance being about ninety miles from 
 here to the banks of the Cowlitze River. This river runs 
 from the northern interior into the Columbia, about forty- 
 nine miles below Vancouver, in a southwesterly direction. 
 At the end of this portage, on the river's banks, the re- 
 tired servants of the Company are again numerously 
 locating themselves, and forming an exclusively British 
 settlement; as, at the Wallamette, the original settlers 
 belonging to the Company's service were introduced on — 
 and, in a great measure, swamped — by the Americans. 
 This settlement is about eiglity miles from Vancouver, 
 and ninety from Nasqually ; making it about one hundred 
 and seventy miles by portage, from Nasqually to Van- 
 couver. It promises great success. The settlers all 
 fraternise with each other — are experienced and enter- 
 prising men — are well acquainted with the whole region 
 of the Oregon, throughout its length and breadth — are 
 attached to the interests of the Company — and are proud, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. IGI 
 
 and tranquil, every man of them, in living- under the 
 secure and unchangeable protection of British power, and 
 British laws. 
 
 The first settlers were two Canadians, Fancault and 
 Plomondeau, active and enterprising- men belonging to the 
 Company. Their contracts having expired, and they 
 wishing to become farmers, were encouraged by Dr. 
 M'Loughlin in their project to settle on the banks of the 
 Cowlitze, rather than on the Wallamette ; as in this place 
 they were more likely to be under the exclusive protection 
 of the Company. They were first rate axe-men, capable, 
 each, of cutting the astonishing quantity of six cords of 
 wood per day with ease. They were, while in the Com- 
 pany's service, overseers of the men employed in the 
 erection of the wooden forts throughout the district. I 
 mention their names, as the meritorious founders of a 
 community, which promises so much prosperity, deserve 
 to be recorded. 
 
 Frazer's River rises in the Rocky Mountains, between 
 latitudes 55^ and 56^ north, near the source of Canoe 
 River (which is the first large tributary of the Columbia, 
 after the latter issues from its source ; and at first runs 
 about northwest for a distance of about eighty miles. It 
 then takes a southern direction, receiving the waters of 
 Stuart's River, which rises in one of the chains of lakes 
 that abound in New Caledonia. It continues its southern 
 course by west, receiving the waters of the Chilcotin, 
 Pinklitsa, and several other minor rivers flowing from 
 the lakes or hills of the west ; and also the waters of 
 Thompson's River, Quisneli's River, and others which 
 flow into it from the east. In parallel 49^ it breaks 
 through the Cascade range of mountains in a succession 
 of falls and rapids, and, running westward about seventy 
 miles, is emptied into the Gulf of Georgia, in 49° 07' 
 north. During this latter part of its course, for about 
 seventy miles, it is navigable for vessels, afl;er passing its 
 bar, that draw twelve feet of water. Its whole lengtli is 
 14* 
 
162 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 about four hundred miles. The country along its lower 
 section is hilly, and covered with forests of white pine, 
 cedar, and other evergreen trees ; and the soil is, gene- 
 rally, well fitted for pasturage, and, in many places, for 
 tillage. But along the other, and more southern, sections, 
 the country is more ungenial and unproductive ; being 
 cut up by mountains, ravines, torrents, lakes, and marshes. 
 Yet it is well wooded ; yielding all the varieties of trees 
 growing in that region — fir, spruce, pine, poplar, willow, 
 cedar, cypress, birch, and alder. 
 
 The climate is very variable ; and the transitions are, 
 though periodically regular, remarkably sudden, if not 
 violent. During the spring, which lasts from April till 
 June, the weather, und the face of the country, are de- 
 lightful. In June, there are almost incessant rains, 
 drifted furiously along by a strong south wind. In July 
 and August, the heat is intense ; and the ground, previ- 
 ously saturated with moisture, produces myriads of an- 
 noying flies and insects. This heat, and glaring sun- 
 shine, are succeeded, in September, by fogs of such pal- 
 pable darkness, that, until noon, it is seldom possible to 
 distinguish objects, at a longer distance than one hundred 
 yards. In November, the winter sets in, speedily freezing 
 the lakes and smaller rivers. The cold, however, is not 
 so intense as might be imagined in such a country and 
 climate. 
 
 In the interior, and upper country, the Company have 
 forts in different parts stretching from the forty-eighth 
 degree of latitude to the fifty-eighth, and have formed 
 numerous establishments. The following are the names 
 of some of the principal forts. Okanagan, Thompson's 
 Fort, Fort St. James, Fort Alexander, iM'Leod's Fort, 
 Frazer's Fort. I should observe that Fort Langley is 
 twenty miles from the river's mouth. Trees in this dis- 
 trict are plentiful ; but in most parts provisions are 
 scarce ; and at such an immense distance from Van- 
 couver they cannot be carried in large quantities, the 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 163 
 
 transportation being by land and horses. Mr. Peter 
 Skine Og-den is the governor of this vast district. The 
 principal food is salmon and various other fish ; edible 
 land animals and wild-fowl are scarce. 
 
 The Gulf of Georgia is connected with Johnson's 
 Straits, and divides Vancouver's Island from the main 
 land. At the northeast end of the island there is a nu- 
 merous tribe called the Coquilths. The beaver and sea- 
 otter are plentiful, as well as the hallibut fish, deer, and 
 game. 
 
 I may here mention, that on my next expedition to this 
 coast, in my former capacity of trader and interpreter — 
 while Mr. Finlayson commanded as chief factor — in The 
 Beaver, trading steamship, which anchored in this place, 
 we made a very important discovery — a rich mine of coal 
 near the surface. The cause of the discovery was as 
 carious as the discovery itself was important. Some of 
 the natives at Fort M'Louglilin having, on coming to the 
 fort for traffic, observed coal burning in the furnace of 
 the blacksmiths ; and in their natural spirit of curiosity 
 made several inquiries about it ; they were told that it 
 was the best kind of fuel ; and that it was brought over 
 the great salt lake — six months' journey. They looked 
 surprised; and, in spite of their habitual gravity, laughed 
 and capered about. The servants of the fort were sur- 
 prised at their unusual antics, and inquired the cause. 
 The Indians explained, saying, that they had changed, 
 in a great measure, their opinions of the white men, 
 whom they thought endowed by the Great Spirit with 
 the power of effecting great and useful objects ; as it was 
 evident they were not then influenced by his wisdom, in 
 bringing such a vast distance and at so much cost that 
 hlack soft stone, which was in such abundance in their 
 country. They then pointed out where it could be found 
 of the richest quality close by the surface, rising in hil- 
 locks, and requiring very little labour to dig it out. This 
 intelligence having been reported at Vancouver, v»-e re- 
 
164 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 ceived instructions to make the necessary inquiries and 
 explorations. Mr. Finlayson with a part of the crew, 
 went on shore, leaving- me in the ship, to conduct the 
 trade ; and after some inquiries and a small distribution 
 of rewards, found, from the natives, that the original ac- 
 count given at Fort M'Louglilin was true. The coal 
 turned out to be of excellent quality, running in exten- 
 sive fields, and even in clumpy mounds, and most easily 
 worked all along that part of the country. 
 
 The natives were anxious that we should employ them 
 to work the coal ; to this we consented, and agreed to 
 give them a certain sum for each large box. The natives 
 being so numerous, and labour so cheap, for us to attempt 
 to work the coal would have been madness. They were 
 greatly surprised when they first saw the steamboat, say- 
 ing she could do any thing but speak ; and the white man 
 must have been assisted in the work by the Great Spirit. 
 The Company has, since I left the country, established a 
 large cattle farm in this island. 
 
 The country here, is, in point of beautiful scenery and 
 fertility of the plains, although not so large, even supe- 
 rior to the Wallamctte valley. It has beautiful runs of 
 water, and clumps and groves of trees, of various kinds, 
 scattered through the level lands — pine, oak, cedar, and 
 spruce. 
 
 A little further along the straits froai the Coquilths, 
 and at the northern extremity of the island, is the Ne- 
 wettee tribe. This tribe, which now is ratlier pacific in 
 its character, and not physically powerful, has been re- 
 duced to a skeleton of its former self, from the inroads of 
 the savages who come from the northern and eastern con- 
 tinent to kidnap them, when on tlieir fishing excursions, 
 and then enslave them. 
 
 Some years ago an American vessel, which drifted on 
 shore in foul weather, and through bad pilotage, was cut 
 off here by the natives ; and all hands were murdered, 
 with tiie exception of the armourer and sail-maker. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 165 
 
 These they spared, thinking- they would be of service to 
 them. They compelled them to join in their war parties. 
 One of them soon died. Should a vessel come in to trade, 
 they would not allow the survivor to go on board. But 
 after several 3'^ears had past in this miserable slavery, an 
 American vessel came in to trade ; and the survivor ma- 
 naged to make his condition known to the captain. The 
 captain enticed several of the chiefs on board — placed 
 them in safe keeping- ; and told them then, that unless 
 they gave up the white man in their possession, he would 
 run them up to the yard-arm. This intimidated them. 
 The poor fellow was soon brought on board, to the great 
 delight of the ship's company. 
 
 The length of the gulf and straits from Point Mudge 
 is upwards of one hundred miles. The channel, although 
 narrow, is free from rocks and shoals, but in some parts a 
 most tremendous current runs. The land, in some places, 
 both on the main land and the island, is very lofty ; co- 
 vered with pine-trees, actually growing out of hare rocks. 
 The natives of this island amount in number to upwards 
 of five thousand. Their houses are large, and are thus 
 constructed. Immense logs are driven into the ground 
 with large rafters, for the roof, placed in a slanting direc- 
 tion. The roof is covered with immense cedar boards, 
 split from cedar-trees with wooden wedges made from 
 knots of trees, and the sides are of cedar likewise, with 
 curious figures, resembling men and animals, fantasti- 
 cally painted on them. Some of the principal houses will 
 accommodate from two to three hundred people. 
 
 The chiefs often, in the winter months, give feasts to 
 their people. The food consists of dog, seal, and whale- 
 blubber, with berries, &c. 
 
 They manufacture blankets made from the inside bark 
 of the cedar-tree. This is soaked in water for several 
 days, then beaten between two pieces of bone. They set 
 the thigh-bone of a deer, or a bone of similar size and 
 strength, firmly, in a horizontal position, in a stand ; on 
 
166 OREGO.X TERRITORY. 
 
 this they lay a large piece of bark, and keep beatinjj it 
 until it becomes soft like hemp. It is then woven toge- 
 ther, and dyed with various figures upon it. They make 
 their dye from roots. The blanket takes two women ten 
 days to complete. 
 
 Gulls are very numerous about this place, as there are 
 several rocky islets. Three or four of these lying near 
 the north end of the island are called Scott's Islands. By 
 going on shore in the months of June and July, in a short 
 time bushels of eggs may be gathered on them. 
 
 Nootka Sound is to the west side of Vancouver's Island, 
 in the 49° of latitude. The Company's vessels seldom 
 visit this place for traffic, as there is now scarcely any 
 fur to be found there. The land is high and w-oody, 
 principally covered with large pines. And the natives 
 resemble the more southern tribes in tlieir customs, and 
 general character. 
 
 At Millbank Sound, in June, 1833, the Company com- 
 menced building a fort, and were assisted by the crews 
 of the vessels Dryad and Lama ; the former commanded 
 by Captain Kipling, the latter by Captain M'Neil. The 
 land-department was superintended by Mr. Donald Man- 
 son, assisted by a Mr. Anderson, and myself; Mr. An- 
 derson superintending the men. I had charge of tlie 
 Indian-department ; and with a complement of between 
 forty and fifty Canadians and Scotchmen, set actively to 
 work. The point pitched upon, was a bay about twenty 
 miles up the Sound, in latitude 52° 6'. When the men 
 first went on shore, it was like entering an impenetrable 
 forest. They had not been there long before the trees 
 began to fall ; and in a few days a large open space 
 showed itself. A place was soon cleared for tents to be 
 pitched ; and in the course of a month or two suflicient 
 ground was cleared for the erection of the pickets, or 
 posts, which are eighteen feet high, placed close together, 
 for the inclosure of the fort. These answer instead of 
 brickwork. As soon as tlie enclosure was finished, Vv'e 
 
 4 
 
OnEGON TERRITORY. 167 
 
 despatched the brig Dryad to the southward, the Lama 
 having' previously left. 
 
 During the Dryad's stay witli us, our men nearly came 
 to battle with the Indians. One of the sailors cutting 
 wood, on shore, had his axe stolen ; and to obtain it, an- 
 other of the men took a blanket from an Indian. This 
 exasperated the natives ; and they gave their signal. 
 The Indians then began to muster from all quarters, fur- 
 nished with fire-arms, knives, and axes ; some of them 
 taking position amongst the trees — others on the beach. 
 Our land party being exposed to them, Mr. Manson 
 thought it prudent to come to a parley ; and hostilities 
 ceased. 
 
 After the Dryad left, we pursued our work : the build- 
 ing of the fort progressed with great vigour ; and during 
 its erection, we pushed on a brisk trade in furs. I was 
 appointed to the post of trader, acting under Mr. Manson, 
 as governor of the fort. My instructions were to lower 
 the price of skins ; give in payment useful, substantial, 
 and lasting articles ; and endeavour to do away, if possi- 
 ble, with the injurious and degrading article of spirits, as 
 a medium of barter : as tlie American vessels had pre- 
 viously been here, and had given immense prices, and 
 sold spirits, so that the Company's vessels should be 
 debarred from the whole trade. This exasperated the 
 Indians against me ; and they gave me the name of 
 » Shloapes" i. e., " stingy :" and when near them, if I 
 should spit, they would run and try to take up the spittle 
 in something ; for, according as they afterwards informed 
 me, they intended to give it to their doctor or magician ; 
 and he would charm my life away. But they were 
 much disappointed to find me there for sixteen months 
 afterwards. 
 
 Every thing went on favourably until the month of 
 October ; when, to our surprise, one of our men deserted 
 and joined these savages. He was a Canadian. And, 
 as we Avere given to understand that he was with one 
 
168 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 of the tribes in the neighbourhood of the fort, called 
 " Kyete's tribe" (Kycte being the chief's name — but 
 nicknamed by an American captain, Boston), we sent for 
 this chief: but previous, however, to this, we offered to 
 give them blankets, ammunition, and other articles, if 
 they would bring him back ; but to no purpose. We, 
 therefore, knowing the value the natives set on their 
 chief, detained him in the fort, thinking this would in- 
 duce them to come to terms : and we informed them un- 
 less our man was given up, we should send their chief to 
 the governor at Vancouver. During this time we were 
 living in the enclosure, which was not farther than ten 
 feet from an impenetrable wood, in boarded, temporary 
 houses and tents. The bastions were built, but we had 
 not our big guns properly placed. Having so many men 
 in the fort, our water became scarce ; and to get more, 
 we were obliged to go one hundred and twenty yards 
 from the barrier. 
 
 On a particular day, seeing no Indians about, we pro- 
 posed to allow some of the men to go out with buckets to 
 get water. Mr. Anderson and myself went outside to 
 see after them, while Mr. Manson kept a look-out within 
 the enclosure, from a high temporary watch-tower. We 
 had not been out many minutes, when, looking around 
 the bay, and on a point of land about a quarter of a mile 
 to the southward, we perceived a fire. At that instant, 
 several Indians rose up — gave the war-whoop, and the 
 fort was then surrounded with himdreds of these savages, 
 
 some armed with knives, others with guns and axes. 
 
 Mr. Manson cried out, to arms. Mr. Anderson and my- 
 self rushed as fast as possible to the fort, and then to the 
 bastions ; from whence we commenced firing, along with 
 the men that remained in tlic fort. This threw the In- 
 dians into confusion, and made them retreat, with some 
 loss of life, into the woods. The whole of our outside men 
 escaped unhurt into the fort, with the exception of two. 
 One of these was a half-breed, who was surrounded by 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 1 69 
 
 eig-ht Indians. He was cut in the shoulder severely by 
 an axe aimed at his head; after this blow he managed to 
 wrest the axe from the Indian, and keep his assailants at 
 bay ; but another Indian coming up with a gun, was in 
 the act of shooting him, when Mr. Anderson rushed to 
 the fort-gate, and, with his rifle, shot the Indian. The 
 others decamped, and the half-breed made his way into 
 the fort. The other, a Canadian, had, before the dis- 
 turbance, fallen down, with an axe in his hand, which 
 had injured him. This man they took prisoner ; dragging 
 him, face downwards, to the water-side, and placed him, 
 tied hands and feet, in a canoe ; it being that night their 
 full intention, had we not their chief in custody, to have 
 burned him. During the night they kept up a con- 
 tinual whoop and firing of guns ; bat kept a long distance 
 from the fort, fearing we should get our big guns to bear 
 \ipon them. Having this poor fellow in their possession 
 all night, they brought him in the morning under the 
 fort, and announced a desire to speak to us : and finding 
 their chief was safe, said if we would give their chief 
 freedom they would return our man. The deserter they 
 persisted they knew nothing of. Finding we could not 
 get back the deserter, we proposed to give them their 
 chief, provided our man, whom they had taken prisoner, 
 was returned ; and likewise we proposed that they should 
 give us two inferior chiefs as hostages. This was done 
 for a guarantee, to prevent any of our men from being 
 attacked by them, in case they were compelled to go out 
 of the fort. This was agreed to. The chief having been 
 let free, our Canadian returned next morning ; and the 
 two Indians were kept as hostages to insure safety to 
 our men on quitting the fort for business. The Indians 
 requested us to hoist our flag, as a signal of peace. They 
 informed us, that one or two Indians had been wounded 
 in the previous conflict, and wished to know if they 
 came, since peace had been proclaimed, whether we 
 would dress their wounds ; to this also we willingly con- 
 15 
 
170 OREGON' TERRITORY. 
 
 sented, and the patients were restored quite recovered. 
 This conduct on our part, in receiving and healing their 
 "svounded, made a very favourable impression on them t 
 and they exhibited every pacific disposition. We kept, 
 however, within the fort for several weeks, until their 
 vindictive feeling would completely have cooled down : 
 and by that time we became mutual friends. Trade then 
 again commenced at a brisk rate ; and we went on build- 
 ing and clearing ground as usual, for the completion of 
 the fort, and the preparation of our little farm. As I 
 began to speak their language, so I increased in favour 
 v^ith them. 
 
 These Indians diiFer greatly from the southern tribes 
 in the prominence of their countenances and the regu- 
 larity of their features, thus resembling the northern 
 Europeans. They are rather dirty, using quantities of 
 oil for the hair, and daub their faces with vermilion : this 
 they use from their infancy. The shores here are high, 
 and covered with trees. A little way in the interior are 
 patches of plains, but rocky and covered with short grass 
 and moss. In the neighbourhood, the wood consists of 
 pine, hemlock, cedar, spruce, small fruit, crab, birch, and 
 various kinds of berry bushes. The Indians arc nume- 
 rous, and divided into three different tribes. The chiefs 
 are Wacash, Oyellow, and Kyete. Haliibut and salmon 
 abound here — the salmon far inferior, and much smaller 
 than the Columbia salmon — herrings, too, are found there 
 in abundance : the spawn is gathered by the natives, and 
 dried on sea-leaves for their winter provision. They like- 
 wise take the tender rind from the inside of the hemlock 
 tree, and pound it into cakes, which they dry in the sun. 
 The salmon is split down the back, and smoked, and 
 dried for winter. Blankets are made, by the women, 
 from cedar bark, in the same way as those made by the 
 Coquilths, already mentioned. They have several vil- 
 lages that they shift to at different seasons of the year. 
 Their winter villages are strong built houses, particularly 
 
OREGON- TERRITORY. 171 
 
 those belonging to the cliiefs. Here, as well as in John- 
 son's Straits, the chiefs entertain, at a public feast, the 
 members of their several tribes. At these feasts the men 
 sit on benches ranged on one side, near the wall, and the 
 women arc ranged opposite them. They also give public 
 entertainments to the chiefs of the more inland tribes. 
 
 In their marriages, the Indian taking a wife, generally 
 makes her friends presents, — a war canoe, dressed elk 
 skins, beaver skins, and English goods, such as blankets, 
 ammunition, &.c-, receiving presents from her friends in 
 return. On the wedding-da}^ they have a public feast, 
 at which they dance and sing, sometimes in separate 
 groups, sometimes all dance and sing together — men and 
 women. In their singing, which is a sort of irregular 
 chaunt, they ail keep to the same key, and therefore it is 
 not easy to distinguish any individual excellence among 
 them. In their dances they throw their bodies into a 
 variety of fantastic attitudes, and move their hands, 
 keeping time to the music. On these occasions they are 
 decked off in their best dresses and ornaments. They 
 have one curious custom in their dances : at stated 
 periods, they keep puffing from a painted tube, one end 
 of which is inserted in the mouth, the other pointed up- 
 wards, quantities of fine down, which flies about their 
 heads, presenting the imitation of a snow shower. 
 
 In the winter months these, as well as the neighbour- 
 ing tribes, assemble in great numbers in the chief's 
 house, for the purpose of witnessing the chief imitate 
 different spirits, whom they are supposed to worship. 
 He puts on, at intervals, different dresses, and large 
 masks, of different kinds, entirely covering his head and 
 neck- The masks are made to open the mouth and eyes 
 by means of secret springs, invisible to the spectators, 
 and different noises are sent forth. He dresses for each 
 character behind a large curtain, drawn quite across the 
 room, like the drop curtain in a theatre, and then comes 
 forth, and stands on a sort of stage in front of it, while 
 
172 ORBGON TERRITORY. 
 
 the spectators are ranged on benches placed along the 
 side-walls. In one of his characters he imitates the 
 rising sun, which they believe to be a shining man, wear- 
 ing a radiated crown, and continually walking round the 
 earth, which is stationary. He wears, on this occasion, 
 a most splendid dress of ermine, and other valuable furs, 
 and a curiously constructed mask, set round with seals' 
 whiskers, and feathers, which gradually expand like a 
 fan ; and from the top of the mask swan-down is shaken 
 out in great quantities, according as he moves his head. 
 The expanding seals' bristles, and feathers represent the 
 sun's rays, and the showers of down, rain and snow : the 
 Indians chaunting at the same time, in regular order and 
 in a low key, showing reverence, devotion, and awe. 
 
 Sometimes the various divine personages are repre- 
 sented by one man ; sometimes there are two or three 
 personators on the stage all at once, representing different 
 divinities. Our men were often invited to witness these 
 religious exhibitions ; but the greatest silence, attention, 
 and decorum were expected from them. Our attendance 
 they considered a high compliment ; and they invariably 
 made us presents, generally of skins, before we departed. 
 One of our people, a half-breed, a funny volatile boy, son 
 of IMr. Manson, used to imitate, on a sort of many-barred 
 fife, the noise made by the sacerdotal chiefs on tlie stage. 
 The Indians, when they used to come to the fort, and 
 hear this, seemed much amazed, and often begged of me 
 to check him. After the conclusion of tJie ceremony 
 they have a feast, consisting generally of seals' and dogs* 
 flesh, salmon, boiled and roast, and different kinds of 
 berries. During the representation and tlie feast, there 
 is a large wood-fire in the centre of the room. 
 
 As 1 acquired a knowledge of tlieir language, I was 
 admitted to much of their personal confidence, and soon 
 became interpreter. 
 
 There is one very remarkable peculiarity of their reli- 
 gious customs which deserves to be noticed : and if I had 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 173 
 
 not personal evidence of its reality, I should be slow to 
 bring myself to a belief of its actual existence. The 
 chief, who is supposed to possess the "right divine" of 
 governing, and to be the intermediate agent between the 
 great solar spirit — the Creator and Supreme Ruler — and 
 his creatures here below, retires at times, whenever he 
 fancies himself summoned by the divine call, from the 
 tribe, without giving tliem any previous intimation of his 
 mission ; and takes up his abode in the lonely woods and 
 mountains, taking clandestinely with him a small stock 
 of dried salmon for sustenance. When he is missed by 
 his family, the report is spread abroad, and then it is 
 known that he has gone to hold familiar converse with 
 the Great Spirit, who will, within a short time, descend 
 to give him an interview. Intelligence has then been 
 procured, from the Indian who saw him last on that day, 
 as to his route, and the district of the woods and hills to 
 which he is likely to confine his wanderings ; and a 
 sacred boundary line is drawn round this district, within 
 which it is a crime of profanation to pass, on hunting or 
 fishing excursions, on pain of death. Should any unlucky 
 Indian even meet this compound of chief and priest in 
 his excursions, he is sure to be put to death, either by the 
 chief himself^ for he must be perfectly passive in the in- 
 furiated chief's hands, or, should the chief in his ab- 
 stracted mood not attack him, he must, on his return to 
 the tribe, acknowledge the guilt, and resign himself a 
 voluntary victim. Should he conceal the fact of his 
 meeting the chief, and should the chief on his return charge 
 him with the fact, then he would undergo the most shock- 
 ing torture. The duration of the chief's absence on this 
 mission is irregular — at least it is long enough to exhaust 
 his small stock of food, even with the utmost economy. 
 It is oflen three weeks. When hunger pinches him (and 
 lie generally selects the most desert and dreary region, 
 destitute of esculent fruits or roots) his imagination 
 becomes inflamed, and what was before religion or super- 
 15* 
 
174 OREGON TERRiTORV. 
 
 stition, becomes now frenzy ; during which the fancied 
 interview with the Great Spirit occurs. He returns at 
 last to tlie village, the most hideous object in nature, 
 with matted hair, shrunken cheeks, blood-shot eyes, and 
 parched lips — his blanket, which is his sole covering, all 
 hanging in shreds about him, torn by boughs and 
 brambles — his face all begrimed with filth, animated with 
 all the umiatural ferocity of a demoniac. His return is 
 by night, and as uncertain as his departure. He does 
 not first arrive generally at his own house, but rushes to 
 some other, according to the blind caprice of his wild- 
 ness, and instead of entering it by the door, he ascends 
 the roof — ^tears off one of the cedar-board coverings, and 
 plunges down into the centre of the family circle ; he 
 then springs on one of tlie full-grown inmates, like a 
 famished wolf — wrenches with his teeth a mouthful of 
 his flesh, from his limbs or body, which he convulsively 
 bolts down, without any process of mastication, but 
 barely chopping the lump once or twice for the purpose 
 of easier deglutition. No resistance is made, for the 
 sufferer thinks that he has been ordered by the Great 
 Spirit to yield up a part of his flesh and blood, as a sort of 
 peace or sin offering to the priest. The chief then rushes 
 to another house in the same way, and makes the same 
 hurried repast. He continues this process along other 
 houses ; until, in a few hours, he becomes exhausted, 
 from the quantity of human living flesh that he has 
 devoured. He is then taken home in a state of torpor, 
 and thus remains, like an over-gorged beast of prey, for 
 a couple of days. After his resuscitation he is languid 
 and sickly, and, as he must not partake of the usual food 
 for a certain time after he has got his fill of the human 
 sacrifice, he goes on but slowly to convalescence. 
 
 I have been, more than once, in close connexion with 
 one of these chiefs, after his restoration ; and his breath 
 was like an exhalation from a grave. The wounds in- 
 flicted by his bite, though held as sacred trophies, often 
 
OREGON TERRITURV. 175 
 
 proved mortal. Their mode of cure is this : — They apply 
 eagle-down as a styptic to check the hemorrhage ; and 
 then apply a plaster, made of pine-tree gum. Several of 
 the wounded and consecrated persons, after we established 
 our fort, finding their own mode of treatment ineffectual, 
 came to our surgeon (applying to me first, as interpreter) 
 to have their rankling sores healed. They used to pre- 
 sent a most hideous appearance; being jagged and torn, 
 and often showing the clear indentations of the human 
 teeth ; and besides the fetor issuing from them was most 
 noxious. The daughter of one of the chiefs (who practised 
 this abomination), the wife of one of our men, told me 
 that her father, on his return to the village, after his 
 sojourn in the woods and mountains, inet an Indian, on 
 whom he flew, and whose side he continued to bite and 
 devour until his bowels protruded. The Indian made uo 
 resistance ; and, when the chief ran off, he crawled to the 
 village ; and though every effort was made to heal his 
 wounds, tliey were found to be too mortal for human 
 remedy. He died soon afterwards, in their idea, a con- 
 secrated person. So much importance and pride do these 
 Indians attach to these lacerations, that the youngsters, 
 who have not had the good fortune to be thus scarred, 
 apply lighted gunpowder to their limbs ; and use other 
 means to produce a holy gash. 
 
 An American vessel, some years previous to our visiting 
 this place, was attacked by the natives, and part of the 
 crew, as well as the captain, killed. About eight o'clock 
 in the morning the vessel was boarded by some of the 
 chiefs ; and numerous Indians mustered round the vessel 
 in canoes showing quantities of furs. Most of the sailors 
 were up aloft, loosing the sails to be aired. The chiefs 
 called the captain to the gangway to look at the furs ; and 
 while he was in the act of looking at them, one chief on 
 each side of him plunged a knife in his side, after that 
 they pitched him overboard. The women in the canoes 
 cut him to pieces with their sharp paddles when he rose 
 
176 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 to the surface. The natives, on this signal, rushed on 
 deck, and a terrible conflict ensued. Alter many of the 
 crew were slaughtered, with a great number of the 
 savages, the remaining sailors contrived to slip the anchor 
 and sail oiF to the northward. They were picked up in a 
 very crippled state, by another American ship, who 
 atForded them every assistance, and enabled them to reach 
 Boston. 
 
 I often mentioned this shocking occurrence to the 
 natives, with the object of sounding their dispositions and 
 feelings. The general tenour of their remarks showed 
 me that they regretted it as an imprudent act, which 
 would recoil on themselves, by awakening the apprehen- 
 sions of the white men, and urging them to a more 
 guarded and less liberal mode of dealing ; — that they con- 
 sidered it, in the abstract, cruel and treacherous ; but then 
 they used to palliate the act by strong insinuations that, 
 as the class of white men to whom the ship belonged, had 
 no great sympathy with them ; and indeed showed every 
 disposition to cheat and harass them, there ought not to 
 be raised such an outcry about the matter ; for sooner or 
 later they should be obliged to fight in their own defence ; 
 and that they then thought a favourable opportunity 
 sliould not be lost. Kyete, the chief who gave the cap- 
 tain his mortal blow on deck, often told me, that plunder 
 w^as not their exclusive object ; but that he was induced, 
 in a fit of rage, to strike the captain, when he found him 
 exhibiting a dishonest and domineering disposition. He 
 regretted, he said, the occurrence deeply ; and it would 
 never have occurred, he was sure, if the ship belonged to 
 the great Company ; for the Company would not wish to 
 rob the Indians, as the captain intended. And he used to 
 appeal to me, whether I did not think, that, from the eon- 
 duct of the tribe to us, our whole crew would be safe 
 (even if the ship were left unguarded to swing at anchor) 
 before one of his remote villages. I used to give him a 
 reply of general consolation and civility, without express- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 177 
 
 ing any decided opinion of the matter. I certainly had 
 no fear of a similar attack, for three good reasons : we 
 were too much on ihe alert; we dealt liberally and 
 honestly with them ; and the generally believed power of 
 the Company was a tower of strength. 
 
 I often conversed with these people on the cardinal 
 points of religion ; and they always seemed glad to hear 
 the subject. They used to say, we know the Great Spirit 
 is good, and that he made us and the world; — that the 
 evil spirit is bad, and has hoofs and horns ; and that the 
 bad will be punished hereafter. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Fort M'Loughlin — Voyage from it all along the inlricale inlets 
 or canals — Various tribes — tlieir appearance, and customs. 
 
 Fort M'Loughlin is about one hundred and twenty 
 yards square, having two bastions standing at right 
 angles ; in each of these are four nine-pound guns, with 
 a quantity of small arms, ready for action. It is sur- 
 rounded with pickets, i. e., trees, cut eighteen feet long, 
 where no branches have run out, and about twenty-four 
 inches in circumference. These pickets are mortised 
 into a large square log placed firmly in the earth. The 
 pickets are placed so close together that they cannot even 
 be seen through. There are double gates at the entrance, 
 with a small wicket gate in them. At the top of the 
 pickets there is another large log, into which the pickets 
 are mortised, and at the top are placed long spikes. In- 
 side the fort, round the pickets, and about four feet and a 
 half from the top, is a gallery run round the fort. Here 
 a watchman is continually kept on the look-out, and a 
 one-pound swivel placed over the gate : this protects the 
 gateway. On the inside of the gate, on entering the fort, 
 
178 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 stands the Indian hall. A certain number of Indians arc 
 only allowed to enter for trade at a time ; this hall is in- 
 tended for them to wait in until they trade. Another man 
 is constantly kept at the gate to let the Indians in and out. 
 Adjoining the hall are the trader's house, and a house for the 
 officer in charge of the men. On the lefl, on entering the 
 fort, is the Indian shop and store, for the Indians to trade, 
 and the trader's outfit. Adjoining this is a place for 
 holding provisions traded from the natives, such as deer, 
 hallibut, salmon, and wild-fowl. On the right-hand side 
 of the fort is a long building, divided into rooms, for the 
 men. At the end of this is a very neat house, part of 
 which is converted into a mess-room. At the further end 
 of the fort, fronting the entrance, is Mr. Manson's house, 
 divided into several rooms, all of which are very neat and 
 compact. On the left of the fort is a long warehouse for 
 the reception of the general outfit which is sent once a 
 year, by a vessel, from Vancouver. There are other small 
 buildings, such as the blacksmith's shop, and carpenter's 
 shop, and the kitchen, to which are attached the cook's 
 and steward's rooms. The Indians arc all kept near the 
 gate and Indian hall ; they are not allowed to enter the 
 fort square, with the exception of the chiefs. These arc 
 sometimes allowed to visit the governor's house, where 
 they get some biscuit and molasses and a little weak 
 spirits and water. The Indians generally behave them- 
 selves very v/ell, when inside the fort ; but as they are 
 much addicted to thieving (at which they are most ex- 
 pert), we kept a constant watch over them. But all our 
 vigilance was often futile. I have knov.'n vessels when 
 lying in the neighbourhood of this place trading, to have 
 been pilfered of both canister-shot and powder, taken out 
 of the big guns. 
 
 Having quitted Fort M'Loughlin in 1834, in the brig 
 Dryad, I returned to the Columbia, and was there sta- 
 tioned till the middle of 1836 ; having passed some time 
 at Fort Vancouver, and been stationed at Fort George as 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 179 
 
 superintendent. I then returned to Fort M'Loughlin, in 
 the " Beaver" steamer, in the character of trader and 
 interpreter, and was happy once more in the society of its 
 first governor, — my old friend Mr. Manson, than whom, 
 I must say, there is not in the Company's service a more 
 persevering, acute, zealous, and honourable, and therefore 
 efficient, trader ; — feared and trusted by the natives, and 
 esteemed by the servants. I am happy, too, in saying 
 that he has had his long-merited reward, in official pro- 
 motion, and in the Company's increased estimation of his 
 excellent qualities. During the interval between my de- 
 parture and return, I found that Mr. Manson, although 
 reduced to a short complement of men, had made many 
 great improvements at the settlement. A large tract of 
 ground liad been cleared round the fort, where potatoes 
 and other vegetables were growing. Several large build- 
 ings had been erected inside the fort. The bastions were 
 all complete, with the large nine-pounders staring us in 
 the face. And the Indians were brought to a quiet and 
 well-behaved course of conduct. No further disturbance 
 had occurred in my absence. 
 
 Chief factor Finlayson was on board the steamer with 
 us, reconnoitring the coast ; Captain Hotne was com- 
 mander, late of the East India service, Mr. Dodd chief 
 officer. We had on board upwards of thirty hands. 
 
 It was the intention of Mr. Finlayson, under whose in- 
 structions all our scheme of proceeding was to be con- 
 ducted, to push on along the numerous and intricate in- 
 lets (that interlace the whole country) as far as possible 
 inland, in order to come as much within reach of the 
 interior tribes as possible. Therefore we ran into their 
 uttermost extremities, along almost the whole of the laby- 
 rinth; stopping sometimes to trade, and ascertain the 
 capabilities of the country, and the character of the na- 
 tives, who had never seen a large vessel (and especially a 
 steamer) or a white man before. The country had the 
 niain characteristics of that about Millbank Sound. 
 
180 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 Some of the natives showed a flattened forehead, but not 
 a compressed head. Indeed, generally, they are a well- 
 featured and muscular race, but suspicious and rather 
 treacherous. Along these inlets, many of which are the 
 mouths of rivers, the tribes are clustered in villages, — 
 especially towards the interior. 
 
 At Fort M'Loughlin we took on board about twenty- 
 six cords of wood, for fuel, which was ready cut for us ; 
 this generally lasted us, when running on, between three 
 and four days. From here we ran inland, up different 
 inlets, called canals, which run out of Fitzhugh's Sound, 
 a little to the southward of Fort M'Loughlin. Up these 
 canals we proceeded about a day's voyage. The land 
 along these canals is lofty, and covered with pine, appa- 
 rently growing out of rocks. In some places these canals 
 are clear running all through ; at other places the navi- 
 gation is occasionally obstructed. 
 
 About twelve at noon, on the second day, we reached 
 a place called, by Vancouver, " Bentick's Arms" — inha- 
 bited by a tribe of Indians — the Bella ghchoolas. Their 
 village is near Salmon River; where Sir Alexander 
 M'Kenzie came down from the interior, during his sur- 
 vey, and, by observation, found he must be near the Pa- 
 eific Ocean : and in case any vessel should run to this 
 place to trade, he made a mark on a large rock ; which 
 was partly distinguishable when we were there. He 
 named this Salmon River, on account of the quantities 
 of salmon he saw in it. Though we arrived in the sal- 
 mon season, we could not prevail upon the natives to sell 
 us one, unless cooked by themselves ; as they, as well as 
 the Chinooks, and other tribes, fancy that cutting the sal- 
 mon crossways " sends them away," and they will have 
 none for their winter provisions. We traded numbers of 
 furs from them, but nothing else. 
 
 The land here is high ; as in other parts, entirely 
 covered with trees — not a patch of clear land to be seen. 
 
 We likewise visited another large tribe of Indians to 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 181 
 
 the seuthvvard, up a canal running' out of Johnson's 
 Straits, far into the main land. We took, from Milbank, 
 an Indian, as interpreter. It took us, from the straits, a 
 day and a half to reach its extremity. The land along 
 the shore was high and woody — completely covered with 
 pine trees — not a patch of clear ground to be seen. The 
 natives appeared to be milder-looking tribes than those 
 nearer the ocean. It runs upwards of one hundred miles 
 inland, from Fort M'Loughlin, in a southeasterly direc- 
 tion. On running, with the steamboat, up this canal as 
 far as possible, on the second day, we came to a stop — 
 the water became shallow ; and we anchored in a small 
 bay. Several natives came to us in canoes, and told us 
 the village was up a small river, and entreated us to go 
 thither : but our Indian interpreter wished us not. How- 
 ever, the captain was anxious, and pressed me to accom- 
 pany him ; to which I consented. We manned our 
 whale-boat ; and we were well armed. No one had been 
 up this place since Captain Vancouver's boats were up 
 here, surveying; and the Indians, after we had been 
 there a little time, began to muster in great numbers. 
 We put ourselves on our guard, and set a regular watch 
 to mark their manoeuvres. 
 
 The village we visited was up a small shallow river, 
 about two miles long, with scarcely water sufficient for 
 our boat to go up. In this river, we fell in with two 
 large canoes, on their way to the vessel. When we ar- 
 rived within a quarter of a mile of the village, the In- 
 dians flocked from the bush in great numbers, on to the 
 banks of the river, armed with guns, and bows, and ar- 
 rows. Seeing our boat full of men, and our musketoons 
 fixed on the gunwale of the boat, they got an impression 
 that we were coming to attack their village, and exhi- 
 bited a hostile spirit. They understood a little of the 
 Milbank tongue. I therefore gave them to understand 
 that we were peaceably inclined, and had only come to 
 trade with them, and to visit their village. Having 
 
 16 
 
182 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 eleven men in the boat, the captain, myself, and three 
 men, went on shore to visit the houses ; leaving- six men 
 in the boat, and giving them instructions to pull into the 
 middle of the stream, and lie abreast of the village. The 
 natives there appeared to be friendly towards us ; and 
 made us presents of some skins and shells ; but expected 
 something in return — which they got. They showed us 
 different wooden idols, some resembling the dog — and 
 some, men. The village was very large, and enclosed 
 with pickets, about eight feet high. This was to pre- 
 serve the village from being attacked by the interior 
 tribes. I saw, on a tree, a small coffin, with a covering 
 over it, and a human image, cut out of wood, and painted. 
 They informed me that this was the corpse of a child 
 that had been killed by their enemies when attacking 
 their fort, some time before ; and they had placed it there 
 with this idol by its side, as a memorial of their cruelty 
 in slaying an innocent. Quantities of berries and dried 
 salmon were stowed away in their houses for winter. 
 There could not be less than from five hundred to six 
 hundred Indians belonging to this village. The women 
 seemed to be much afraid of us, as were also the children. 
 I asked the reason ; and was informed that it was the 
 first time they had ever seen a white man in their lives. 
 They seemed anxious to detain us at the village as long 
 as possible : but our men informed us that the water was 
 fast falling; and that we should not, if we remained 
 longer, be able to get back. I had no doubt that they 
 wished to detain us, from some sinister design, until the 
 tide had ebbed, so as to bar our departure : and we rowed 
 off. On our arrival at the ship, our interpreter informed 
 us that some of the Indians had been there, and said we 
 should never return again. He (the interpreter) had 
 been — we were informed by Mr. Dodd, the chief officer 
 — a long way up the rigging, with the spy-glass, anxi- 
 ously looking out for us. The officers, and likewise tiie 
 men, were glad to see U8 heave in sight with the boat. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 183 
 
 The country up the river, as far as the village, ap- 
 peared low, covered with berry-bushes. Pine and alder 
 appeared to be the principal wood. Tlie interior, I have 
 not the slightest doubt, is a plain country. 
 
 We sent our wood-cutters on shore at this place, and 
 renewed our stock of wood ; the Indians assisting in 
 carrying it to the beach, and bringing it alongside the 
 vessel in their canoes ; for which we gave them some 
 tobacco : and having procured what furs we could, we 
 again run down the canal into Johnson's Straits — from 
 thence along Fitzhughes's Sound to Fort M'Loughlin ; 
 where we again took in our complement of wood, and 
 ran for the northward, after leaving Milbank Sound. The 
 entrance of Milbank Sound is by low rocks, and a rising 
 land, called Cape Swain, and lies in latitude 52^ 13' ; the 
 northwest point of entrance is Point Day, off which lie 
 several rocky, barren islets. In passing, numerous seals, 
 sea-elephants, and sea-lions, with other monsters of the 
 deep, can be seen lying, when the sun is out, basking on 
 the rocks. 
 
 The Indians at the Milbank Sound, called Belbellahs, 
 are very ingenious and imitative. They watched sharply 
 all our proceedings, and gave us striking examples of 
 their native talent. They promised to construct a steam- 
 ship on the model of ours. We listened, and shook our 
 heads incredulously ; but in a short time we found that 
 they had felled a large tree, and were making the hull 
 out of its scooped trunk. Some time after, this rude 
 steamer appeared. She was from twenty to thirty feet 
 long, all in one piece — a large tree hollowed out — re- 
 sembling the model of our steamer. She was black, with 
 painted ports, decked over ; and had paddles painted red, 
 and Indians, under cover, to turn them round. The 
 steersman was not seen. She was floated triumphantly, 
 and went at the rate of three miles an hour. They 
 thought they had nearly come up to the point of external 
 structure : but then the enginery baffled them ; and tliis 
 
184 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 they thought they could imitate in time, by perseverance, 
 and the helping illumination of the Great Spirit. 
 
 They bury their dead amongst rocks, placing in their 
 coffins, as the Chinooks do, articles for their use in the 
 next world. They believe, that after they are dead, they 
 are taken in a canoe along a dark lake, for a long dis- 
 tance ; and then come to large gates. These gates are 
 opened as they approach. There are, beyond these, two 
 rivers — one branching to the right ; the other, to the left. 
 If they have done good, and not committed murder, they 
 will go to the right ; where there is salmon in abundance, 
 berries of all sorts growing continually, and the sun 
 always shining. On the left, there is continual snow 
 and frost, misery, and starvation. 
 
 These Indians deal in slaves, purchased from the 
 southern tribes — the original kidnappers — and then sell 
 them, at a profit, to the northern tribes, who come down 
 to purchase them. A full-grown, athletic slave, who is a 
 good hunter, will fetch nine blankets, a gun, a quantity 
 of powder and ball, a couple of dressed elk-skins, tobacco, 
 vermilion paint, a flat file, and other little articles. 
 
 After leaving Point Day, and taking a northerly course, 
 instead of going out into the open ocean, the Company's 
 vessels generally keep inland, along the canals De Larado 
 and Delprincipe. The country along these canals is in- 
 habited by a numerous tribe of Indians, called the Sebas- 
 sa tribe ; differing in many points from the more southern 
 tribes. They are more active and enterprising than the 
 Milbank tribes, but the greatest thieves and robbers on 
 the coast. They are scattered about along the canals, 
 but the principal residence of the chief is either at Land- 
 Otter Harbour, or Seal Harbour. In each of these har- 
 bours there is good anchorage for vessels. 
 
 They build their villages, chiefly, upon high and pre- 
 cipitous rocky islands, or promontories ; having steps cut 
 down to the water. This is done to prevent any sudden 
 attack from an enemy. The chief, Sebassa, has twenty 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 185 
 
 wives, and numerous slaves ; and is accounted to be one 
 of the w^ealthiest on the coast. They go in bands, in 
 their canoes, to the southward, and, unawares, kidnap 
 the Indians, when out fishing, or gathering berries. 
 These are then taken inland, and traded as slaves. Some 
 of these Indians, from their trading intercourse with the 
 British and American ships, speak a little English. They 
 bring large quantities of various kinds of fur-skins for 
 barter — beaver, bear, raccoon, otter, fox, seal. Their food, 
 and manner of living, resemble the Milbank tribe. They 
 give feasts and dances ; and Iiave religious ceremonies, 
 and religious masquerades, or theatrical representations, 
 similar to those of the Nootka Sound tribes. The shores 
 are high and rocky, covered with pine and cedar-trees. 
 The natives are great gamblers ; and, as well as the more 
 southern tribes, resemble the Chinooks in their games. 
 The seal arc numerous ; and are eitlier shot, when lying 
 on the rocks, or most dexterously speared, when floating, 
 in the same manner as a wliale. 
 
 One day, running along these canals, we had on board 
 one of these Indians, to show us the different harbours ; 
 but it became very foggy, so that we could scarcely see 
 the ship's length before us. The Indian, having a large 
 hat on, resembling the top of a small parasol, made of 
 the twisted fibres of the roots of trees, with an aperture 
 in the inside, at the broader end, to fit his head. He 
 stood upon the quarter-deck — took off his hat — and in- 
 formed me that he intended to charm the fog away ; for 
 which I was to give him some tobacco. To this I con- 
 sented. He murmured some few words ; and with his 
 hand, pretended to gather the fog into his hat. He then, 
 all of a sudden, dropped his hat on the deck, as if he had 
 something in it; and, after holding it, mouth down, for 
 some minutes, and murmuring some more words, in- 
 formed me that the fog would soon be gone. The fog, in 
 about half an hour, did happen to clear away fast. He 
 then assumed a proud and self-confident air ; and assured 
 16* 
 
186 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 US that it was all the work of his " conjuration and 
 mighty magic." I saw no necessity for offending or 
 provoking him by any expression or sign of dissent or 
 incredulity ; as we were in a great degree under his 
 guidance, in those intricate and narrow guts. Of course 
 the fellow, from his knowledge of the climate and the 
 locality, was weather-wise ; and could tell the appear- 
 ance and disappearance of those periodical fogs. I gave 
 him his tobacco, and a little more, with which he was 
 highly pleased. 
 
 The only covering the men have, is a large blanket 
 thrown round their bodies. The women have a loose, 
 figured calico shirt over them, with a piece of coarse 
 cloth thrown across their shoulders — the calico having 
 lately superseded the former skins. Both male and 
 female daub themselves over with vermilion. They wear 
 large rings through the nose ; some of these rings being 
 bone — others, silver ; made by themselves, from dollars 
 purchased from American traders. As ornaments for 
 their wrists, they have bracelets, made from brass wire. 
 Their hair is very long ; for which they use a great deal 
 of seal and salmon oil. When a relation, or parent, dies, 
 they put themselves in mourning, by cutting the hair 
 quite close, and blacking the face and neck, for some 
 months. Both men and women bore large holes through 
 their ears ; from which they suspend red worsted threads, 
 plaited and knotted, and hanging down about eight 
 inches, instead of ear-rings. 
 
 The old women disfigure themselves, by having a slit 
 cut right through their lower lip, crosswise, from one end 
 to the other. They then have a piece of hard wood, or 
 bone, made the length of the cut ; rounded at the end, 
 about two inches long, half an inch broad, and a quarter 
 of an inch thick. Tliis is inserted in the slit, inside, be- 
 tween the lip and gum ; making the lower lip project out 
 about one inch beyond the upper. The sight is hideous. 
 Our men used jocosely to say, this lower lip would make 
 
OREGON TERRITORV, 187 
 
 a good slab to lay their trousers on, to be scrubbed. 
 Shell-fish, of every kind, are plentiful. 
 
 The general character of the country, as we proceeded 
 northward, wore the same aspect — rocky, woody, and 
 mountainous. From the 47° to the 54°, there is a com- 
 plete net- work of inland navigation — sounds, bays, inlets, 
 harbours — safe all through, for all vessels. This I can 
 attest, as I have run through the whole course several 
 times, by steam and sail. 
 
 CHx\PTER XVII. 
 
 Fort Simpson — The surrounding country ; and the various 
 tribes. 
 
 At tlie termination of the canals crossing Chatham 
 Sound, is Fort Simpson, in latitude 54°, named after 
 Mr. Simpson (now Sir George Simpson), of York Fac- 
 tory, and governor of the whole of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company's territory. This fort is situated near Point 
 Wales, on a small island in the sound, opposite Dundas 
 Island, and near the northern termination of the British 
 territory. 
 
 Fort Simpson is built after the model of most of the 
 other forts. The governor is John Work, Esq., chief 
 trader, an Irish gentleman, who has been for many years 
 in the Hudson's Bay Company. Surrounding the fort, is 
 a large and fruitful potato and vegetable garden. The 
 officer conducting the Indian department is Mr. John 
 Kennedy, a medical doctor, son of the late chief factor 
 Kennedy, many years attached to the Hudson's Bay 
 Company. The fort is built in a beautiful bay, with ex- 
 cellent anchorage for shipping. 
 
 The Indians are the Nass tribe, who are very numerous, 
 and in customs and language resemble the Sabassa In- 
 
188 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 dians, with whona they intermarry : indeed, both these 
 tribes appear to be oftshoots from one parent stock. The 
 principal cliief is Ilgeak, whom they designate by the 
 title of Wil-aks Smoket, i. e., the mighty chief: and in 
 truth, if a gigantic person, a stately air, a noble mien, a 
 manly port, and all the characteristics of external dignity, 
 with a symmetrical figure, and a perfect order of Euro- 
 pean contour, would qualify any one for that title, he fully 
 deserves it. Were he exhibited in London, with his 
 harem, he would beat all exhibitions of American Indians 
 out of the field. The whole race, generally speaking, are 
 a fine body of men. But the old women adopt the shock- 
 ing custom of slitting the lower lip, and inserting the 
 piece of bone or wood. It seems that some preparation 
 has been made for this in their youth : the young women 
 have small holes bored through the lower lip, and a piece 
 of round silver placed in it, projecting out about three- 
 quarters of an inch. This aperture gradually grows 
 wider with age ; and aflfords a facility for a final gash. 
 They wear governs, made of calico. These are made loose, 
 similar to a shirt ; but, to show their shape, they have 
 stays, made of clotli, ornamented with pearl buttons. 
 These are drawn round tliem quite tight. They also 
 wear a blanket, thrown across their shoulders. Their 
 hair is long, parted in front, and behind, is bound round 
 with a piece of scarlet cloth, which hangs down like a tail. 
 These northern tribes burn their dead, and deposit the 
 aslies in a box, in a secluded spot in the woods. When a 
 chief dies, he is, before interment, dressed up — his face 
 painted — and placed sitting up, in a canoe, and paddled 
 round the maritime village, looking almost like life. The 
 magicians, or doctors, wear very long hair. They carry 
 images of their gods and spirits in a box, which is kept 
 sacred, and is scarcely ever seen by the vulgar. They 
 have great power over the tribe ; and some of the Indians 
 stand in great fear of them ; for if a doctor owes them a 
 grudge, he will, they think, charm away their life. I 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 189 
 
 have been told by a doctor himself, that sometimes an In- 
 dian's wife, sister, or daughter may die, and^ the Indian, 
 supposing the doctor to have charmed away her life, will 
 avenge himself on the doctor. Amongst the southern 
 tribes, murders have been committed by the Indians on 
 the doctors. 
 
 The oil which they eat with the various kinds of dried 
 fish, is made from sprats, and in the following manner. 
 In the centre of their huts they have a fire, and a quantity 
 of these fish are placed in a large square bucket with 
 water : then hot stones are kept constantly thrown in 
 amongst the fish, with a pair of wooden tongs. The oil 
 rises to the top of the water, and a person is kept in at- 
 tendance to skim it off. After standing until cold, it is 
 quite white and tliick. They also make seal oil from the 
 blubber. Quantities of deers' and goats' grease are traded 
 from them. Bears' grease might be obtained here in abun- 
 dance ; as the black and brown bear are numerous. Deer, 
 and all kinds of wild-fowl, are also plentiful. The prin- 
 cipal fur is the beaver, marten, sea-otter, land-otter, minx, 
 cross-fox, and silver-fox, and squirrels. 
 
 About the month of September, various tribes, who are 
 friendly with the Nass Indians, visit the fort, and encamp 
 around it : then the fort is surrounded with hundreds of 
 Indians. The principal tribes visiting at this time, are 
 the Tongarse, Kegarnie, Port Stewart, and Stikein. More 
 northern tribes come from the Russian possessions ; and 
 the Indians from Queen Charlotte's Island, called the 
 Massets, Comshevi^ars, and Sketigets. At this time there 
 are all kinds of dancing, singing, and feasting amongst 
 them. Trade is kept up at a brisk rate at the fort, which 
 is made in a manner a lively show booth. 
 
 The Indians coming from distant parts to this fort, 
 have large canoes, from thirty to fifty feet long, the pad- 
 dles resembling those of the Chinooks, and are managed 
 in the same manner. Besides containing numerous In- 
 dians, their canoes are piled up with goods for barter. 
 They remain mustered here for some weeks, making the 
 
]90 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 fort a complete fair. It requires strict and good manage- 
 ment, at this.time, by the Company's officers, to protect 
 the fort. On landing at the fort, their canoes are piled up 
 in large lieaps, covered over with mats, to keep the sun 
 from cracking them. They bring provisions with them, 
 to last during their stay and journey home. Feasts are 
 given by the chiefs ; and invitations sent regularly round 
 to the different guests. Should any of the officers of the 
 Company be invited, stools are placed by the side of the 
 fire, covered over with cloth and fine calico ; and they are 
 introduced with great ceremony — the chiefs standing to 
 receive them. Skins are given, as presents, to the officers; 
 and, in the course of a day or two, the trader returns the 
 compliment, by making them presents of British manu- 
 factured clothing. 
 
 After the various tribes have finished their trading 
 speculations, and paid their various visits of friendship to 
 one another, and the officers, they launch their canoes, 
 laden with the return goods ; striking up an Indian voy- 
 age song with great glee. 
 
 The Indians inhabiting the vicinity of the fort are tall, 
 well proportioned, and more active and cleanly than the 
 southern tribes. The women are about the same height 
 as the Chinooks, but much more cleanly, particularly the 
 young women — all of them better clad ; wearing, as be- 
 fore mentioned, a loose gown. They have slaves, who do 
 the principal drudgery. These slaves, in barter, fetch a 
 larger price to the northward than they do to the south ; 
 and are sold by the Nass tribe to the various inland tribes, 
 for furs. These furs they again sell to the white traders 
 for blankets, and other articles of use or luxury. 
 
 Numbers of the young men among the northern tribes 
 speak broken English, picked up from the various Ameri- 
 can vessels, that used to frequent these parts, and from the 
 Company's servants. Amongst these tribes are numbers 
 of American half-breeds, both men and women : some of 
 the latter as fair as English females : some with light 
 hair, and some few with quite red hair. 
 
OREGON TERRITORV. 191 
 
 The country surrounding the fort is high and woody. 
 The wood consists of pine, spruce, cedar, and cypress, 
 with various runs of water, coming from the interior 
 mountains. It abounds with deer, duck, and geese : lial- 
 libut, sahnon, and herring. Berries, of all kinds, grow in 
 abundance, which are gathered by the women, and dried 
 for winter provisions. 
 
 Their religion resembles that of the other tribes, who 
 think the sun is the great ambulatory spirit, who makes 
 his daily tour of inspection over the stationary earth ; and 
 that the moon is his subordinate nocturnal watchman. 
 On one occasion I explained to a chief that it was the 
 earth that moved round, and not the sun. He said he 
 always put faith in what I had previously told him, but 
 never should any more, as I was only deceiving him. 
 
 They are very much afraid of the small-pox, which, in 
 1835, had made dreadful ravages amongst them — more 
 amongst the families of the chiefs, than among the in- 
 ferior classes ; perhaps because these did not lead so 
 sedentary a life, and were not so highly fed. Most of the 
 men employed by the Company here take wives, princi- 
 pally from the Tongarse, and Kegarnie tribes; these 
 being the most cleanly of all the Indians on the coast. 
 
 Their dress resembles, for the most part, that of the 
 Nass women, but is of finer texture — the cloak ornamented 
 with pearl buttons — the stays outside the gown, of scarlet 
 cloth, so as to show off the shape, similarly ornamented 
 — silver rings through the nose, and on the fingers — 
 several bracelets on the arms, and strings of braided silk 
 depending from the ears. Both men and women have a 
 handsome and regular expression of countenance : in 
 complexion and contour resembling Europeans. This 
 may be averred of most of the natives in these latitudes. 
 
 During the time the opposition was kept up between 
 the Company and the Americans on this coast, this tribe, 
 as well as the other northern ones, used to designate the 
 Aiaericans by the name of Boston fellow., — the British, 
 
192 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 as King George fellow. And the old chief of this tribe, 
 named Neoccote, often told me that he observed a small 
 variation in phraseology, and even in pronunciation, be- 
 tween the British and Americans, which he used thus to 
 express : " small change 'em, speak 'em, king George 
 fellow, Boston fellow ;" i. e., the Bostonians and British 
 speak the same language, but with u small change. 
 
 This old chief was very much attached to the British, 
 and gave, as a legacy to Mr. Ogden, two beaver skins, 
 stating that when he died he wished a coffin to be made, 
 and to be buried in it after the Britisli fashion, and in 
 their burying-ground near the fort, by the side of Lieu- 
 tenant Simpson — a gentleman who was commander of 
 the Company's shipping in the Oregon, and who was 
 buried close to Fort Simpson. But as I had left that part 
 of the country before his death, I did not hear whether 
 his family allowed him to be buried as he wished, or 
 whether he was placed in the woods amongst the dead 
 remnants of his tribe. 
 
 The principal harbour of Tongarse, which lies within 
 the Russian territory, is round like a basin, with a sandy 
 bottom, the soundings from eight to twenty fathoms. 
 The land, for some distance, is low, interspersed with the 
 usual sorts of wood found in these latitudes. The in- 
 terior is dotted with small plains and lakes. The soil is 
 good. Deer, salmon, with various other fish, as well as 
 wild-fowl, abound here. This harbour is said to be the 
 best on this part of the coast whence to obtain spars, and 
 other wood, lor shipping. The Americans as well as the 
 British, were prevented visiting these harbours for trade, 
 as the Russians began to cast a jealous eye upon them, 
 and set armed vessels in the various ports, which they 
 called their territory, for the protection of their trade. 
 Therefore the Company and the Americans had to con- 
 fine themselves within the 54° of latitude. 
 
 The Kegarnie tribe, also in the Russian territory, live 
 on an immense island, called North Island. They re- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 193 
 
 •5emble the Tongarse Indians, both men and women, in 
 appearance, dress, and customs. The country is rocky, 
 and highly covered with pine and spruce trees, and with 
 a light pasture mould. Fish, seal, and berries constitute 
 their principal food. Some of the Indians' teeth are 
 actually w^orn down close to their gums, from continually 
 eating hard dried salmon. There is a chief of this tribe 
 who is a half-breed American, and goes by the name of 
 George Bennett ; and is said to be a son of Captain Ben- 
 nett, who was, many years ago, in charge of a vessel 
 from Boston, trading on the coast. This young Bennett 
 speaks English very well. I asked him if he would not 
 like to go to America or England ? He answered " no !" 
 as he considered we were slaves — even our chiefs — who 
 were always doing something from necessity, and as we 
 were always at work for a living. " I have slaves," said 
 he, " who hunt for me — paddle me in my canoes, — and 
 my wives to attend upon me. Why should I wish to 
 leave ?" 
 
 Although the jealousy of the Russians prevents the 
 British entering their ports for trade, the Indians prefer 
 trading with the British, therefore they travel for miles, 
 with their large canoes laden with furs, to Fort Simpson. 
 
 The Stikein tribe live much further north, approaching 
 the chief Russian settlement of Sitka, at the top of 
 Clarence's Straits, which run upwards of one hundred 
 miles inland. These Indians speak the same tongue as 
 the Tongarse, and are intermarried with them. Furs 
 are numerous amongst them, and of a good quality. It 
 is a mountainous country, some of the mountains con- 
 tinually covered with snow. Here, as in other parts of 
 the coast, the wood consists of pine, spruce, and cedar. 
 
 A little to the northward of this there is a tribe called 
 the Chilkasts. In their country great quantities of virgin 
 copper are found. Some of it is worked by the natives 
 into a kind of shield, about two feet and a half long, and 
 one foot broad, with figures of men and animals engraved 
 
 17 
 
194 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 upon it. The labour and ingenuity expended in working- 
 one of these shields, give them great value. One of them 
 is estimated as worth nine slaves, and is transmitted as a 
 precious heir-loom from father to son. 
 
 Before leaving Fort Simpson, it may not be unin- 
 teresting to give a sketch of a slight disturbance which 
 originated tlirough one of the Indian women. During 
 the time a large body of the Indians were encamped 
 round the fort for trade, one of them, a Port Stewart In- 
 dian, became jealous of his wife, who was a Tongarse. 
 In his jealous fit lie beat his v/ife most tremendously. 
 Her sister, who saw this, ran up with a clasp-knife in 
 her liand — plunged it into the man's mouth, and cut his 
 cheek close up to his car. He would eventually have 
 bled to death, had not Dr. Kennedy of tlie fort, attended 
 him. The woman fled. A regular feud was thus gene- 
 rated, and the friends of both parties prepared for all the 
 stratagems of barbarous revenge and warrare. A fellow- 
 tribc-man, and particular friend of the wounded man, lay 
 day and night in wait for the woman. This one of the 
 v.-oman's friends and relations discovered, and he, too, lay 
 in wait for the skulking assassin until he found him, and 
 shot him dead. These accumulated wrongs stopped all 
 avenues of peaceful negotiation, and war to the verj' pole 
 of the battle oxc, was declared between the tribes. The 
 Port Stewartites managed to come upon part of the Ton- 
 garse tribe at night, near their village, and killed several. 
 The Tongarse Indians, anxious then for peace, offered to 
 make compensation, with slaves and blankets, to the dead 
 man's friends, as well as for the "man injured in the 
 mouth ;" this they readily accepted. But after this 
 negotiation the Port Stewart Indians swerved from their 
 contract, and fitted out anotlier war party to attack the 
 village. But some of the Tongarse tribe being in the 
 vvood, saw them, and roused the village. The enemy, 
 seeing this unexpected resistance, tied. But the Tongarse 
 Indians chased them, and, having found thirty of them 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 195 
 
 in a deep hole in the wood, surrounded with rocks, com 
 menced a deadly fire upon them, and destroyed them as 
 the Blackfcct would a herd of buffalo. Thus terminated 
 the war at that time. But the Port Stewart tribe, when I 
 left the country, were filled with revenge, and only wait- 
 ing for their opportunity. 
 
 Their houses are of the same construction as those of 
 the Chinooks, but much larger. Their favourite dish is 
 seal, but they most frequently feed off dried salmon and 
 oil. The brown, black, and gray bear arc numerous in 
 these northern parts, as are wolves, which, during the 
 winter months, come near the fort, howling in hundreds, 
 with their whelps, for hours. The Indian dogs resemble 
 the wolf very much, having a sharp nose, and a long, 
 bushy tail ; being a cross breed from the wolf, they are 
 famous dogs for running deer down in the woods, and 
 are often used by the Indians for that purpose — particu- 
 larly in winter, v/hen the snow is on the ground, driving 
 the deer from the woods on to the beach, Avhere the In- 
 dians lie in wait, and shoot them. Their canoes are 
 made from large trees, hollowed out, resembling those of 
 the Chinooks, but larger. Every chief keeps an Indian 
 on his establishment for making and repairing canoes, 
 and making masks for his religious representations : this 
 man they call their carpenter. Their covering consists 
 of blankets except on state occasions ; then the chiefs 
 have splendid dresses of prepared elk-skins, ornamented 
 with porcupine quills, dyed in various colours produced 
 from boiled roots. 
 
 Mr. Peter Skein Ogden was the man who established 
 the first fort amongst these northern tribes — who pitched 
 his tent on a spot where white man never did before, and 
 succeeded in bringing these savages into contact with 
 the white man's customs — detached them from the pro- 
 fligacy of American trading to the useful and civilizing 
 intercourse with British merchants. He is descended 
 from a most respectable and wealthy family in Montreal. 
 
196 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 He was educated for the law ; but preferred enlisting in 
 the Northwest Company and passing his days in the 
 wilds of America ; where he has been almost from his 
 youth. He is a man of great natural talent, humour, 
 goodnature, and intelligence. He will entertain a host 
 of friends by his amusing anecdotes. I should very 
 much like to see issued from the press the " Memoirs of 
 the eccentric Peter Skein Ogden," which would be 
 amusing both to young and old — learned and unlearned. 
 Queen Charlotte's Island is about one hundred and 
 fifty miles long. The principal tribes upon it are the 
 Sketigets, Massets, and Comshewars. These are nume- 
 rous ; and have several half-breed Americans amongst 
 them. They are expert thieves ; and will, if constant 
 watch is not kept, when visiting the vessels, draw bolts, 
 staples, nails, and other articles of iron, from the doors. 
 Lead is a fancy article of theirs ; sometimes they will 
 endeavour to cut it off the stem of a vessel. The only 
 thing that keeps these, as well as the other northern 
 tribes, in a little subjection, is the nine or twelve pound 
 cannons staring them in the face. A great number of 
 these Indians speak broken English. This island, as 
 well as numerous other places, has never been examined; 
 but samples of lead have been given by the Indians to 
 some of the Company's servants. There are various 
 minerals found here ; but it would require a large party 
 of men to examine this island, as the Indians are treach- 
 erous and sly. A soft kind of stone is found, resembling 
 slate, which the Indians make into pipes, ornamented 
 with various figures cut upon them resembling men and 
 animals. From the flat file they make beautiful fluted 
 daggers ; some eighteen inches long, as highly finished 
 as if they had been turned out of a first-rate maker's 
 hands in London. They likewise make hats from white 
 roots of trees, neatly platted together, made into any 
 shape. Their dress is not very dissimilar from that of 
 the Tongarse tribe. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 197 
 
 ¥/hen a vessel visits these tribes, which is seldom, as 
 fur is rather scarce (particularly beaver), and as land and 
 sea otter, with a few small furs, are the only skins they 
 have, and these not plentiful, they will congregate, as 
 near the vessel as possible, and dance — throwing them- 
 selves into different postures, and making all kinds of 
 grimaces — having their faces highly painted ; and down 
 ii-om the eagle completely covering their hair, with a 
 kind of rattle in their hand, and a musical instrument 
 resembling the tambourine. The dance is generally ac- 
 companied with a song. Their houses are neatly con- 
 structed, standing in a row ; having large images, cut out 
 of wood, resembling idols. The dwellings have all paint- 
 ed fronts, showing imitations of men and animals. At- 
 tached to their houses, most of them have large potato 
 gardens : this vegetable was first given to them by an 
 American captain ; and is now grown in abundance, and 
 traded by them to the vessels visiting their harbour, and 
 to the traders at Fort Simpson. I have known from five 
 to eight hundred bushels being traded in one season, from 
 these Indians, at Fort Simpson. 
 
 In the latter end of the year of 1834, the Hudson's 
 Bay Company lost, on Rose Point, at the entrance of this 
 harbour, a fine schooner, of about one hundred tons, 
 commanded by Captain Duncan ; which drove upon the 
 sands, on her beam ends. As it was found impossible to 
 float her, and as the natives, who congregated in multi- 
 tudes around Mr. Heath, the chief officer, and his men, 
 while attempting to clear away the sand from her, were 
 armed, and showed every disposition to pillage and mur- 
 der, the crew quitted the wreck, at night, in the boats, 
 and pulled for Fort Simpson. After several days of toil, 
 and after some of the crew were frost-bitten, they, with 
 hearts full of joy, reached the fort ; not knowing, on their 
 journey, but that rounding every point of land they might 
 be cut off from a volley fired by the treacherous Indians. 
 Captain Duncan thought some other vessel might be at 
 17* 
 
198 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 the fort ; if so, he determined again to return, to secure 
 the vessel and the cargo. But, no vessel being at the 
 fort, the lost schooner was left to the savages. We after- 
 wards learnt that their plot was laid ; and an attack was 
 to have been made early the following morning. And in 
 dividing the plunder amongst themselves, several quarrels 
 originated, and numbers were killed. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company judiciously let the matter 
 rest, without chastising the natives, and gave orders that 
 no proceedings were to be taken against them, but to 
 allow the trade to proceed as usual. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Relative claims of Great Britain and America to the Oregon 
 Territory considered. 
 
 This subject has been already much discussed. A 
 simple synopsis of the whole case may help to lead any 
 right-minded, and dispassionate person to a just conclu- 
 sion which of the contending claimants has the best 
 right. 
 
 It is universally allowed that the right of any state to 
 the jurisdiction over a new country rests on three 
 grounds : — 1st, prior discovery ; 2d, the taking formal 
 possession after discovery; 3d, settlement; this ground 
 being strengthened if the formal possession be continued 
 by settlement. There is a corollary often appended to 
 these, i. e., contiguity of territory. 
 
 Now I tliink it will appear, to any sober mind, that, on 
 each, and all of these grounds, the British claim is un- 
 questionable. 1st, As to discovery. I shall mention only 
 the chief navigators and explorers, avoiding all question- 
 able and unimportant statements. 
 
 In 1777, before the Americans had any existence as a 
 
OREGON TERRITORV. 199 
 
 nation, Cooke, the Englishman, carefully explored the 
 coast, as far as the forty-eighth degree : examined Nootka 
 Sound ; and then proceeded on his tour of survey north- 
 ward to the Arctic Ocean, until he ascertained that the 
 continents of Asia and America were separated by a 
 strait. This strait Beehring subsequently passed, not 
 knowing, as Cooke did, its character and geographical 
 relations. However, most unjustly, the strait has been 
 named after Beehring. 
 
 In 1787, Berkeley, the well known English navigator, 
 explored the Strait of Fuca. 
 
 In the same year, Dixon, an Englishman, explored 
 Queen Charlotte's Island, calling it after his own ship's 
 name. 
 
 In 1788, Lieutenant Mears, R. N., who had long been 
 engaged in the British trade in China, and was well con- 
 versant with the multitudinous branches of the Pacific 
 intersecting this part of the coast, took an accurate sur- 
 vey of the Strait of Fuca and Nootka Sound ; taking for- 
 mal possession of the circumjacent territory in his Britan- 
 nic Majesty's name ; and established a factory, or trading 
 post, at Nootka Sound. 
 
 In 1792, 1793, and 1794, the celebrated English navi- 
 gator Vancouver, being sent out by government, explored 
 surveyed, and sounded the Strait of Fuca, to the head of 
 Puget's Sound, and every mile of all the intricate wind- 
 ings of this coast. It may be said, without exaggeration, 
 that, in the world, there is not to be found a niore exten- 
 sive and complex system of internal navigation. The 
 labyrinth of bays, sounds, inlets, creeks, and harbours, — 
 promontories, islands, and land tongues, with the countless 
 sinuosities of land and water, show it to be a perfect net- 
 work. 
 
 In 1792, Broughton, Vancouver's lieutenant, command, 
 ing another ship, explored the Columbia River, as far as 
 one hundred miles upwards, taking possessio^i (and in his 
 sovereign's name) of the whole coast, as British territory ; 
 and gave their present name to several places. 
 
^00 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 In 1793, M'Kenzic was, in his inland explorations, 
 nobly co-operating with Vancouver, in furthering- the ob- 
 ject of Great Britain. Perhaps, in the whole history of 
 inland discovery, there is nothing- to surpass M']'i[enzie's 
 amazing perseverance, courage, and sagacity. At a time 
 when most of the northwest continent was totally un- 
 known, and considered impassable, from the dreariness of 
 the country, the destructive rigour of the climate, and the 
 ferocity of the natives, he, a humble officer in the Hudson's 
 Bay Compan}'^, conceived the daring project of traversing 
 the whole continent, from ocean to ocean ; and not oniy 
 conceived, but — executed it ! Having crossed the Rocky 
 Mountains — whose existence was not before ascertained 
 by civilized men, he descended part of the Tacoutche 
 Tasse river and reached the Pacific, in latitude 52^ 3'. 
 
 The other early explorers were the Spaniards — the prin- 
 cipal of whom was Heccta. In 1775, he discovered the 
 Columbia. In a Spanish map, printed a ijiw years after, 
 the mouth of the river is called Entreda de Heceta, and 
 Entreda di Assuncion ; and the river itself, Rio di San 
 Roque : because he explored tlic lower parts of it on the 
 fifteenth and sixteenth of August ; which are the festivals 
 of the Assumption, and of St. Roch. 
 
 Now as to the American discovery. Here is the history 
 of it, as given by Washington Irving ; who puts the very 
 best face on the matter for his countrymen : " Among the 
 American ships which traded along the northwest coast, 
 in 1792, was the Columbia, Captain Gray, of Boston. In 
 the course of her voyage, she discovered the mouth of a 
 large river, in latitude 46=' 19' north. Entering it, with 
 some difficulty, on account of sand-bars, and breakers, 
 she came to anchor in a spacious bay.... Captain Gray 
 did not ascend the river fartlicr than the bay in question, 
 which still bears his name. After putting to sea, he fell 
 in with the celebrated discoverer, Vancouver, furnishing 
 him with a chart, which he made of the river. Vancouver 
 visited the river ; and his lieutenant, Broughton, explored 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 201 
 
 it by the aid of Captain Gray's chart ; ascending it up- 
 wards of one hundred miles, until within view of a snowy 
 mountain, to which he gave the name of Mount Hood, 
 which it still retains. The existence of this river was 
 known long before the visits of Gray and Vancouver ; but 
 the information concerning it was vague and indefinite ; 
 being gathered from the reports of Indians. It was 
 spoken of, by travellers, as the Oregon, and as the great 
 river of the west." 
 
 Here it may be observed — 1st, that one of the especial 
 objects of Vancouver's mission was to explore this river — 
 which was well known to the English ; and which Eng- 
 land, by previous treaty with Spain, had as good a right 
 to settle on, as she had on the Thames, or Humber : the 
 knowledge was not at all vague, but definite enough. Nor 
 was this knowledge gathered from the reports of the In- 
 dians, but from the published accounts, and maps, of 
 Heceta's discovery. — 2d, that Gray was only a private 
 speculating trader, dodging along that coast, bartering 
 for furs. — 3d, that he never passed farther up than twelve 
 miles, as he himself says. — 4th, that his object was not to 
 explore or occupy. — 5th, that he did not explore ; for he 
 remained in the river not more than ten days ; and, during 
 this time, was weatherbound in the bay, where he took 
 refuge ; and as to his chart, Vancouver, with a quiet 
 sneer, says, " it was not much what it professed to be ;" 
 and as to taking possession, this poor coaster never did it, 
 or thought of it. 
 
 In 1805-6, after, not merely the existence of the river, 
 but its general course, and the adjacent localities, were 
 well known to, and occupied by, British subjects, engaged 
 in the fur trade, two American citizens, Lewis and Clarke, 
 who had travelled overland across the Rocky Mountains, 
 nearly on the parallel of the mouth of the Columbia, 
 reached, by means of the southern branch, the parts of it 
 already known. Their declared object was "to search 
 for a water communication for the purposes of commerce." 
 
i}02 
 
 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 In 1811, Thompson, a scientific member of the Cana- 
 dian Northwest Company, explored and surveyed the 
 whole, from its source along its northern, which is its 
 principal, branch, to its mouth. 
 
 When Mears, in 1788, established his factory in Nootka 
 Sound, and laid the foundation of a very extensive British 
 trade along the coast, Spain, having many previous causes 
 of jealousy against Great Britain, took this opportunity of 
 evincing a hostile spirit ; and despatched Admiral Martinez 
 to seize on the propert}'' of the settlers, and dispossess them. 
 The British government took fire — demanded, and received 
 satisfaction for this invasion of British rights, in a country 
 to which Great Britain averred she had as strong a claim 
 as Spain : and, in truth, a stronger claim, so far as ex- 
 ploration and possession went. The consequence was, 
 that a treaty — known as "the Convention of the Escurial," 
 was signed between the two parties, in 1790 : the princi- 
 pal provisions of which were — that the subjects of either 
 state should not be molested in fishing, or in landing for 
 the purpose of trading with the natives, or of establishing 
 settlements, in places not already occupied. And, by the 
 fifth clause, it was agreed, that " the subjects of either 
 state should have free access to the settlements then made, 
 or thereafter to be made by the other." This treaty, 
 which was laid before parliament by Mr. Pitt, was cen- 
 sured, as limiting the British right of settlement. The 
 fifth clause was the special subject for attack by the 
 opposition ; who contended that, under it a British settle- 
 ment was liable to interruption and invasion every mo- 
 ment, at the caprice or interest of the adverse party. 
 Mr. Grey (the present Earl Grey) said, " In every place 
 in which we might settle, access was left for the Spaniards. 
 Where we may form a settlement on one hill, they may 
 erect a fort on another. A British merchant mui?t run 
 all the risk of discovery, and all the expenses of establish- 
 ment, for a property which vras liable to be the subject of 
 continual dispute, and which could never be placed on a 
 
OREGON TERRITORV. 203 
 
 penaaiicnt and stable footing." Had this sagacious 
 statesman foieseen the present state of" the Oregon ques- 
 tion he could not have spoken more correctly ; and, if we 
 substitute Americans for Spaniards, hi.-? description will 
 hold good. 
 
 Now, let it be recollected, that by this convention in 
 1790, the rights of Spain and Great Britain became per- 
 fectly equalized, and all differences, as to priority of dis- 
 covery and right of colonization, were completely settled. 
 Be it observed, that no other state had, or ever pretended 
 to have, any right whatever to possession in those coun- 
 tries. The discoveries, made by Russia in the more 
 northern latitudes cannot be made an exception, because 
 they never did, nor could interfere with t'ne terras of the 
 convention. 
 
 Great Britain, then, stands merely on her primitive 
 rights of discovery, of possession, and settlement. And 
 those rights she has, without one hint of concession, 
 maintained up to the present hour. Since 1790 she has 
 made no new claim of settlement, and for the best 
 reason, because her claim was as strong as justice could 
 make it. 
 
 In 1807, the pretensions of the Americans to the Oregon 
 became tlie subject of diplomacy between the two govern- 
 ments. But nothing definite vi'as done. In 1811, pending 
 the treaty of Ghent, the subject was renewed, and it was 
 then agreed on that " the places seized on by either party 
 should be restored." Now nothing was to be restored 
 but the bare walls of Astoria (the American settlement 
 before described), for the proprietor had already sold his 
 effects to the British Northwest Company. Tiiis shell ol" 
 an insignificant fort they never afterwards occupied. In 
 1818 the subject was renewed. And then it was agreed, 
 that the country west of the Rocky Mountains sliould be 
 open to both powers for ten years, without prejudice to 
 their respective claim. In 1827 the former covenant was 
 cimnrmed, with Oic additional stipulation, that eitStcr 
 
204 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 party was at liberty to annul it, on giving the other twelve 
 months' notice. 
 
 In a few months after the treaty of 1818, the Federal 
 government concluded a treaty with Spain, called the 
 " Florida Treaty ;" by which Spain ceded to these States 
 all her claims and pretensions to territory north of the 
 forty-second degree of latitude, by a line drawn from the 
 sources of the Arkansas to the Pacific. 
 
 It is on this cession of territorial right on the part of 
 Spain that America partly rests her sole right to the ter- 
 ritory of Oregon. But this assertion of right is, on the 
 very face of it, absurd and untenable. Spain could not 
 transfer what she did not then possess. Spain never had 
 exclusive possession of the country, and even if she had, 
 she surrendered it, by " the convention of the Escurial." 
 in 1790. After that she had no more than a right of 
 joint occupancy with Great Britain. But they assume 
 another ground of right, i. e., the discovery of the Co- 
 lumbia b}'^ Gray. This ground is as untenable as the 
 other, and almost inconsistent with it. If the American 
 right be sufficiently strong (as it is not) when founded on 
 the cession by Spain, why resort to another ground ? — 
 the priority of discovery, settlement, «fec. Now, this 
 alleged discovery did not take place till two years after 
 the treaty of 1790. And for tioenty-six years after this 
 alleged discovery they did not set up such a claim of ex. 
 elusive right. For they only contended, in 1814 and 
 1818, that tiieir claim was as good as that of Great 
 Britain. Besides, Gra}' was not the discoverer of this 
 river. 
 
 After the government of tiie United States had con- 
 eluded the Florida treaty with Spain, it entirely altered 
 its tone with respect to the Oregon country ; and when 
 the negotiations were next renewed, in 1827, between it 
 and the government of Great Britain, it pushed its pre- 
 tensions to the boldest lengths. It then claimed, through 
 its plenipotentiary — Mr. Gallatin, from the 42d to the 
 49th degree of latitude, without reserve. 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 205 
 
 With respect to the discovery of the Columbia, it lias 
 been already shown, that the first discoverer was not 
 Gray, but Heceta ; and the first explorer was not Gray, 
 but Broughton. 
 
 As to the surrender of all the rights of Spain to 
 America by the Florida treaty, the plain answer is, that 
 Spain only did, and only could, surrender what she herself 
 enjoyed after the convention of 1790, i. e., the right of 
 joint trading and occupancy with Great Britain. An ex- 
 clusive right she never had. And though a war broke 
 out between the two countries subsequently to 1790, yet 
 in the treaty of peace, afterwards signed, Spain did not 
 rescind, or even propose to rescind, the covenant of 1790, 
 which was of a fixed and permanent character. 
 
 As to the surrender of Astoria, it ought to be noticed, 
 that the Americans showed some " sharp practice." All 
 the property of Astoria was sold to the Northwest Com- 
 pany, by its proprietor, who anticipated the coming 
 storm, and sold before the formal seizure of the fort by 
 Captain Black, of the British war sloop, the Raccoon. 
 The treaty stipulated that " all the possessions taken by 
 either party, during or after the war, should be restored." 
 Strictly speaking, there was nothing, except a denuded 
 post, to be restored to the Americans, for there was no 
 property lost. The fort was, however, restored, but it has 
 not since been occupied by the Americans, which shows 
 their surrender of the ground of occupancy. It is nov/ 
 used by the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 
 Lord Castlereagh, writing on the 4th of February, 1818, 
 on this subject, to the British Minister at Washington, 
 says, " In signifying to Mr. Adams the full acquiescence 
 of your government in the re-occupation of the limited 
 position (i. e., Astoria) which the United States held in 
 that river (the Columbia) at the breaking out of the war, 
 you will, at the same time, assert the claim of Great 
 Britain to that territory, upon which the American settle- 
 ment must be considered as an encroachment^ He also 
 18 
 
206 OREGON TEKRITORY. 
 
 says, that the British g'ovcrnmcnt " are not prepared to 
 admit the validity of tlie title of the United States to this 
 settlement." Lord Bathurst, in his despatch to the 
 Northwest Company on this suhject, says, " without, 
 however, admitting- the right of that government (the 
 United States government) to the possession in question." 
 Could language more pointedly convey the opinion of the 
 British government, that the Americans had not a shadow 
 of title to the country, than these despatches ?' The 
 simple truth is, that it was not thought worth while to 
 keep up a contention about a paltry post. It was sur- 
 rendered. But the surrender was accompanied by many 
 protests, that it should not be tortured into any recogni- 
 tion of a right of occupation on the part of America. On 
 the contrary, the settlement was declared to be an en- 
 croachment on British rights, in despatches publicly 
 addressed by British ministers to public servants, and 
 public companies. 
 
 As to contiguity of territory. — The American territory 
 is not more contiguous to the Oregon than the British is. 
 In fact, it is less contiguous, for the undisputed posses- 
 sions of Great Britain in North America are absolutely 
 dovetailed into that country, so much so, that if, by any 
 fatuity or criminality of British statesmanship, the 
 country were to be surrendered to the avarice of the 
 Americans, it would be almost impossible to strike a line 
 of boundary. But the case is very different as to the 
 frontiers of the United States. There nature has erected 
 a wide and lofty barrier. After you pass the western 
 limits of the States, there is, for many weeks' journey, 
 a vast arid wilderness, yielding no sustenance for even 
 wild man, or wild beast. Then, after that, there rises to 
 the clouds, and above them, the appalling range of the 
 Rocky Mountains, towering, sometimes, to the height of 
 eighteen thousand feet, capped with eternal snow. Then 
 again, these being crossed, the traveller has to pass over 
 hundreds of miles, through crags, defiles, and deserts, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 207 
 
 before he approaches the valley of Columbia. Tliis is 
 contiguity of territory ! In the same way may the 
 Pacha of Egypt claim the land of the Niger as an appen- 
 dage to tlie land of the Nile. 
 
 The object of the Americans is to have the dominion 
 of the whole continent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; 
 and to exclude all Europeans, especially British subjects, 
 from all habitation there. This they do not disguise : 
 indeed, they are every day growing bolder, and more 
 exclusive in their tone. 
 
 The forty-ninth degree of latitude was the extremest 
 northern limit that the Americans ever set, formerly 
 (even in 1827), to their claim, in their boldest assumption 
 of right. But now they have transcended all their former 
 pretensions by many degrees ; for they claim as far north 
 as the fifly-fourth degree ! The President, in his formal 
 message to Congress, on the 5th of December, 1842, says: 
 " The United States have alioays contended that their 
 rights appertained to the whole region of country lying 
 on the Pacific, and embraced within 42^ and 54^ 40' of 
 north latitude." 
 
 Commentary on so false and monstrous an assertion as 
 this is thoroughly useless. If concession be made to this 
 claim, they will, by and by, claim as far as the Pole. 
 In a word, nothing will satisfy them, short of the extinc- 
 tion of British power and influence throughout the north- 
 crn continent of America. And it only remains for the 
 British government, and the British people, to consider 
 whether they will tolerate this. 
 
208 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Flatheads — Blackfeet — Snakes — Piutes — Strange probationary 
 rites. 
 
 The Flatheads are, comparatively, very fair in com- 
 plexion, and remarkably well made and active ; with oval 
 faces, and a mil 1, and playful expression of countenance. 
 They are described, by those who have the best opportu- 
 nities of knowing them collectively, as well as indi- 
 vidually, as moral and honest in all their dealings — brave 
 in the field — amenable to their chiefs — fond of cleanli- 
 ness, and decided enemies to theft and falsehood of every 
 description. They are also free from backbiting and 
 laziness, which are so common among other tribes. The 
 women are dutiful and affectionate wives and mothers ; 
 and conjugal infidelity is scarcely known amongst them. 
 The dress of the men and women resembles that of other 
 tribes living in rude comfort. 
 
 The principal chief of the tribe is hereditary ; but, 
 from their constant wars, they have adopted the salutary 
 custom of electing, as their leader in battle, that warrior 
 in whom is combined the greatest portion of wisdom, 
 strength, and bravery. The election takes place an- 
 nually ; and, after the expiration of his period of military 
 chieftainship, the leader sinks into his original position, 
 unless he be re-elected. When at home, this leader has 
 no authority whatever ; but is as equally subject as any 
 other warrior to the power of the hereditary chief. But 
 when the warriors set out on their hunting excursions to 
 the plains, he assumes the chief command, which he 
 exercises with absolute sway till their return. On their 
 
OPvEGOX TERRITORY. 209 
 
 advance towards an enemy, he always takes the lead ; 
 and on their return, or retreat, he brings up the rear. 
 His post is one of the greatest danger, as well as of re- 
 sponsibility and power. He carries a long whip with a 
 thick handle, which is decorated with scalps of those 
 whom he himself slew, and with feathers ; and he gene- 
 rally appoints two active warriors as his subalterns, or 
 aides-de-camp. Great regularity is observed during the 
 march ; and if any warrior fall out of the ranks, or be 
 guilty of any breach of discipline, he always acts with 
 strict justice and impartiality ; and punishes one of his 
 own officers, if guilty of any disobedience or irregularity, 
 with as much severity as any other offender. Hence, as 
 well as from a sense of public expediency and duty, his 
 authority is patiently obeyed. After the conclusion of 
 the campaign, and on their arriving at their own home, 
 the hereditary chief convenes a public meeting, and they 
 proceed to a new election. There is no canvassing or 
 intriguing ; and if the last leader be superseded, he sub- 
 mits without a murmur. 
 
 They rarely marry out of their own nation ; and will 
 not easily consent that any of their women should become 
 the wife of a white man. Their marriag^are contracted 
 only with the consent of the bride's parents or natural 
 guardians, to whom presents are made by the bride- 
 groom. He, too, in return, receives presents. This 
 custom prevails among most of the tribes west of the 
 Rocky Mountains. On the marriage-day, there is a 
 meeting of mutual frTends at the lodge of the bride's 
 father, or next relation, who acts as her guardian ; and 
 they smoke the pipe of peace and friendship. Here the 
 bride receives a lecture as to her future duties as a wife 
 and mother. Slie is exhorted to be chaste, discreet, in- 
 dustrious, and silent ; and when absent, with her hus- 
 band, among other tribes, always to stay at home, and 
 have no intercourse with strange Indians. She then re- 
 tires wnth the old women to an adjoining hut, where she 
 IS* 
 
210 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 undergoes ablution ; and is decked out in her bridal 
 finery. She is then led back to her father's, or guardian's 
 lodge — is complimented, and receives another lecture of 
 advice. After this, a procession is formed to conduct the 
 couple to their own lodge : the men, conducting the 
 bridegroom, move on first, bearing flambeaux of cedar, 
 in a slow and solemn pace, singing war-songs in praise 
 of the bridegroom's bravery, and of their own victories 
 over their enemies — especially the Blackfeet. The bride 
 follows at a short distance, surrounded by a group of 
 women, old and young ; some of whom are rejoicing at 
 the prospect of happiness before her ; others — especially 
 her young companions — crying, at the prospect of losing 
 her unrestrained society thenceforward. When the whole 
 party arrive at the door of the young couple's lodge, they 
 form a circle, and commence dancing and singing for 
 about twenty minutes. After this, the pipe of peace goes 
 round ; the company offer many prayers for the future 
 welfare of the bridal pair; and depart. 
 
 The country of the Flatheads presents a pleasing diver- 
 sity of woods and plains — valleys and mountains — lakes 
 and rivers ; and is well stocked with deer, mountain, 
 sheep, beavers, otters, martens, wolves, lynxes, See, wild- 
 fowl and fish, besides esculent roots ; so that they have 
 abundant means of subsistence and clotliing ; and of 
 traffic as well. 
 
 The Flatheads are polite and unobtrusive. AVhen one 
 speaks, the rest pay attention ; and every one very 
 quietly gives his reasons for assenting, or dissenting, 
 from any proposition. Even the children are more peace- 
 able than other children ; and though hundreds of them 
 may be seen together at play, there is no quarrelling 
 among them. 
 
 There is among them a strong devotional feeling, 
 which is much encouraged by the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany. Sunday is inviolably kept sacred by them. They 
 will not raise their camp on that day ; neither will they 
 
OREGON TEimiTORY. 211 
 
 hunt, fi:-'h, trade, or perform any kind of labour, except in 
 cases of extreme dang-er on that day : they also spend a 
 part of it in prayer and religious ceremonies. The chief, 
 who is at the same time, generally, priest, assembles the 
 community, and commences a form of prayer, in which 
 they all join in an occasional chaunt, or chorus. He 
 then exhorts them to good conduct — to be diligrent in 
 providing for their families — to abstain from lying and 
 stealing — to avoid quarrelling, or cheating in their play; 
 and to be just and hospitable to all strangers. During 
 this time of worship, all business in the camp is sus- 
 pended : and if an Indian is riding by, he dismounts ; 
 holds his horse, and attends with devotion till all is over. 
 At the conclusion, the priest says, " I have done ;" to 
 which they all respond aloud. They have also their 
 prayers on week-days, in the morning or evening. Some- 
 times on an evening, the chief, or priest, delivers these 
 prayers and exhortations on horseback, moving slowly 
 about the camp. 
 
 This devotional feeling, and respect for morality, pre- 
 vails among the Nez Perces also, and other tribes in the 
 midland region. And it may be affirmed, that there are 
 many leading points of similarity between the Flatheads 
 and these tribes. They afford an ample and excellent 
 field for the labours of zealous and judicious missionaries; 
 who would have but little difficulty in converting them 
 to Christianity — the morality and benevolence of which 
 they already, to some extent, practise ; and for the recep- 
 tion of which they are already, in a great measure, pre- 
 pared. But then the missionaries should be men who 
 would enforce the truth and usefulness of their preaching 
 by the purity of their lives ; for as they themselves gene- 
 rally practise what their preachers inculcate, they would 
 at once keenly notice any discrepancy between doctrine 
 and conduct. 
 
 They believe in the existence of a good and evil spirit ; 
 and in a future state of rewards and punishments. They 
 
212 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 believe, that after death the good will go to a country 
 where there is perpetual summer; and delightful rivers 
 and plains, abounding in fish, buffalo, and all kinds of 
 game — that they will there meet their parents, wives, 
 children, and other relations and friends — and will there 
 spend their time in hunting, fishing, and amusement ; 
 free from the terrors of war, or tiie apprehensions of cold, 
 or famine. But the bad, they believe, will be consigned 
 to regions of eternal snow ; where they will be shivering 
 with cold, and sinking with thirst and hunger — behold- 
 ing, at a distance, fires, which they cannot approach — 
 water, which they cannot touch — and herds of deer and 
 buffalo, which they cannot kill : in a word, tantalized 
 with the sight of all the good things of life, which they 
 must not use. They think the boundary between the 
 dreary Tartarus occupied by the wicked, and the Elijsian 
 fields of the good, is a jungle full of panthers, wolves, 
 and all other noxious and dangerous animals. However, 
 they imagine that this place of punishment is rather a 
 purgatory than a hell ; and that according to the ditTerent 
 degrees of the crimes of the wicked, they will sooner or 
 later be emancipated ; and when their offences are ex- 
 piated, be permitted to join their former friends, in the 
 happy regions of the good. 
 
 Their code of morality is very simple, and compre- 
 hensive. They say that honesty — bravery — truth — duti- 
 ful submission to their parents — obedience to their chiefs 
 — and affection for their wives, children, and families, 
 are the virtues which entitle them to a place of happiness 
 hereafter ; wJiereas the opposite vices condemn tliem to 
 a place of misery. 
 
 They have also some idea of a fallen state. They 
 have a traditionary belief that beavers are a fallen race 
 of Indians ; who disobliged the Good Spirit, and were 
 therefore condemned to their present shape — but that in 
 due time they will be restored to their humanity. They 
 allege that beavers have certain powers of speech ; and 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 213 
 
 that they have heard them talk with each other — holding 
 council; and sentencing offending members to punish- 
 ment. These notions about beavers are held by several 
 other Indian tribes. 
 
 The Blackfeet are a numerous tribe, and the best- 
 looking of all the American Indians ; who roam far and 
 wide on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, and are 
 generally represented by natives and American traders, 
 as the sworn foes alike of white men and red. But 
 though they are, unquestionably, a fierce race, yet I have 
 spoken to many free hunters and trappers, as fierce and 
 unscrupulous as themselves — men who would find no in- 
 terest in undervaluing the perils of their own pursuit, 
 and would not be disposed to soften down the character 
 of these Indians — men who knew the Blackfeet well; 
 and I have heard from them that they were not devils so 
 black as they Avere painted. They obtained the character 
 of ferocity ; and they were therefore considered as fair 
 human game, to be hunted down by the surrounding na- 
 tions, whom they used to conquer in war ; and by the 
 Americans, against whose encroachments on Indian free- 
 dom and territory, they offered, and offer still, the most 
 formidable stand. They are an austere and haughty 
 race — occupy, generally, countries (as they spread their 
 predatory and migratory rovings over a vast expanse, 
 which abounds in all the means of subsistence) which 
 bring them on the American confines, and which are 
 worth preserving. They have, they say, heard of the 
 Americans ; who preached liberty, and proved it by 
 shaking off the dominion of foreigners ; but have shown 
 how false are their pretensions and their professions of 
 general freedom, when the first use they have made of 
 the establishment of their own independence, even in a 
 strange land, v/as to rob those whose independence in 
 their own native land was never disputed since they were 
 created by the Great Spirit. 
 
 They say, too, that these white men did not come to 
 
214 OREGON' TERRITORY. 
 
 them originally in a candid guise — either as friends or 
 enemies ; but that, contrary to all the notions they enter- 
 tained of truth and valour, they came to them as treach- 
 crous liars. They smoked with them the pipe of peace 
 and fidelity — broke that pledge — and then hunted tlie red 
 men, like v/olves, from the plains and hills that were 
 granted to their fathers from all time. These white men 
 pretended to give them the great blessings which their 
 own spirit gave them ; but in place of this they gave 
 them — not more meat, nor more fruits, nor more bread 
 from roots, nor a better mode of making arrows, nor 
 softer beds — but burning tvater (spirituous liquors) which 
 the Bad Spirit made ; and which made them mad; and 
 not friends, but enemies, to each other. They also say, 
 that these white men who come from the direction of the 
 rising sun, (the United States Americans,) have endea- 
 voured to make them enemies to the other white men, 
 who come from other quarters. These, and a thousand 
 other justifications for their hostility to the white men, 
 especially the Americans, I have heard trom those who 
 have had opportunities of familiar converse with them. 
 
 Independently of these abstract reasons for their dis- 
 like of the citizen white men, as the wanton destroyers 
 of the whole red race, the conduct of the individual spe- 
 cimens of the American character who creep in among 
 them, would almost justify their antipathy. 
 
 A well-principled and high-minded American writer — 
 Mr. Tovvnsend, who made a journey through these re- 
 gions with an American party, says, " This hostility is 
 kept alive from year to year by incessant provocations 
 on the part of the white hunters and traders, who are at 
 best but intruders on the rightful domains of the red men 
 of the wilderness. Many a night have I sat at the fire- 
 side, and listened to the recital of bloody and ferocious 
 scenes, in which the narrators were the actors, and tlie 
 poor Indians the victims. And I have felt my blood boil 
 with indignation, to hear the diabolical acts applauded 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 215 
 
 by these for whose amusement they were narrated :" 
 (t. e., the company of the American free citizens wlio ac- 
 companied him in his route overland through the Rocky 
 Mountains to the Columbia, or Oregon territory.) " Many 
 a merciless marauder was made by these midnight tales 
 of rapine and murder — many a stripling, in whose tender 
 mind the seeds of virtue and honesty had never yet ger- 
 minated, bm-ned for an opportunity of loading his pack- 
 horse with the beaver-skins of some solitary Black-foot 
 trapper ; who was to be murdered, and despoiled of the 
 property he had acquired by months of toil and danger." 
 The writer proceeds to point out a darker feature in the 
 character of his countrymen — " those noble freemen (to 
 use the words of a member of Congress) who are the 
 pioneers to prepare the road of civilization^ of Christi- 
 anity, and of our institutions, to our territories on the 
 banks of the Columbia." (!) — Says Mr. Townsend, in 
 continuation of this subject, " Acts of this kind are by 
 no means uncommon : and the subjects of this sort of 
 atrocity are not always the poor Indians. White men 
 themselves often fall by the hands of their companions, 
 when by good fortune and industry they have succeeded 
 in loading their horses with fur ! The fortunate trapper 
 is treacherously murdered by one who has eaten from the 
 same dish, and drank from the same cup with him : and 
 the assassin triumphantly returns to the camp with his 
 ill-gotten property. If his companion be inquired for, 
 the answer is, that some days ago they parted company : 
 
 and he will probably soon join But he is soon 
 
 forgotten; or perhaps only remembered by one, more 
 steadfast than the rest, who seizes with avidity the first 
 opportunity of murdering an unoffending Indian in re- 
 venge for the death of his friend." 
 
 The ferocity of the Blackfeet towards the white man 
 has, however, latterly been much mitigated by intercourse 
 with the traders and out-trapping parties of the Company. 
 These act towards them with uniform civility, liberality, 
 
216 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 and justice, and go openly, and with known authority, 
 and also under responsibility to the Company : not in the 
 sneaking, thieving, bullying, and plundering character of 
 the Americans, who can give little, and are disposed to 
 give less, in the way of trade, but cheat and plunder as 
 much as they can, and are not under any control. Mr. 
 Townsend, speaking of a trapping party in the service of 
 the Company, and under the command of Mr. M'Kay, 
 consisting of thirty men, Indians, French Canadians, and 
 half-breeds, observes, " I admire the order, decorum, and 
 strict subordination which exists ainong his men, so 
 different from lohat I have been accustomed to see in par- 
 ties composed of Americans steady, determined 
 
 perseverance, and bold measures, aided by a rigid self- 
 example, made them as clay in his hand, and has finally 
 reduced them to their present admirable condition." 
 The Blackfeet appreciate this mode of dealing and inter- 
 course, and in general reciprocate fairly enough, con- 
 sidering the short duration of time in which they have 
 been brought to even a remote knowledge of principle of 
 fair-dealing or humanity existing among the whites. In 
 their own peculiar districts they will deal peaceably with 
 the servants of the Company ; but when they go abroad 
 on "war-parties," or predatory excursions, they do not 
 conceive themselves bound by any duty to act very 
 scrupulously, and they will slay, or plunder, or trade, as 
 their feelings or interest may lead tliem. 
 
 The Snakes, and other tribes, do the same. They think 
 that, when confined within their own country, and when 
 therefore in a state of peace, they are responsible for all 
 their actions, and must eschew all outrage, and their 
 country and nation are free from all imputation. But 
 when they roam abroad into other countries, in their 
 marauding expeditions, then they imagine that their own 
 outrages must be considered as the legitimate duties of 
 their calling and their necessities; and that any misdeeds 
 of theirs ought to be saddled on the proper occupants ot 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 217 
 
 the invaded country. If a white man, for instance, is 
 slain by ihe Blackfeet in the Snake country, they will 
 justify themselves by the argument that he was an 
 enemy, else why would the Snakes have him there ? 
 The Snakes, in a similar case, would make the same 
 plea. 
 
 The Snake Indians, who embrace many tribes, inhabit 
 a wide extent of country at the head of Snake River, 
 above and below Fort Hall, and the vicinity of Great 
 Bear River, and Great Salt Lake. They are a migratory 
 race, and generally occupy the southeastern portion of 
 the Oregon. Horses and dogs are their only domestic 
 animals. Their clothing does not differ much from that 
 of other inland Indians. The hair, which like that of 
 the Blackfeet grows to an extraordinary length, is the 
 only covering for the head ; in general it is braided and 
 twisted round the head, and, thus managed, forms a 
 strong protection, not only against the weather, but 
 against an offensive weapon — far better than cap or 
 helmet. The females, for the most part, wear it hanging 
 down the back in queues. Their lodges are of a conical 
 shape, covered with skins. Their weapons are bows, 
 arrows, and guns. Their general stock in trade consists 
 of horses, the skins of deer, elks, buffaloes, beavers, otters, 
 and fish. They are represented by most persons, as 
 pacific and hospitable ; especially those races within, or 
 bordering on the Rocky Mountains. They have obtained 
 credit from travellers and traders for hospitality, and 
 honesty in all their dealings, and for possessing high 
 notions of morality and self-restraint. Knowing the 
 dangerous and degrading consequences of the use of 
 spirituous liquors, they refrain from them, saying, that, 
 though exciting for the moment, they eventually enfeeble 
 them, and render them unfit for the purposes of hunting, 
 and of defending themselves against their enemies — they 
 make them quarrelsome to their wives and children, to 
 whom they are bound to be kind, and induce them to 
 19 
 
218 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 fight amongst themselves, when they ought all to be 
 united against the common enemy, and that their use 
 reduces the bravest and most crafty chief to the condition 
 of the lowest Indian. 
 
 Though this general picture, given by some travellers 
 and writers, holds good in the main, of the various tribes 
 classed under the head of Snake Indians, and holds 
 especially so in the fertile countries verging on the con. 
 fines of the territories of the United States, and in those 
 bordering on that of their enemies, yet there are many 
 sad drawbacks, as in the barren lands, within the Oregon 
 territory, west of tlie Rocky Mountains, many of the 
 tribes who live on fish are filthy in the extreme — ill clad, 
 and selfish. Of the Kagouse, and Forces, who live 
 farther west, in a better soil and under a more genial 
 climate, and who have closer intercourse with the traders, 
 such a picture holds better still. The Perces are in 
 general, a very good-looking race, both men and women. 
 But, of all the inland races, the Flatheads hold the first 
 rank, in point of intelligence and civilization, and social 
 intercourse with the whites, and personal comforts. 
 
 Among the many singular narratives of his own adven- 
 tures, and of the customs and superstitions of the remote 
 inland tribes, narrated by Mr. Peter Skein Ogden, one of 
 the chief factors, he mentions the following : " Among 
 many of the warlike tribes of the Rocky Mountains 
 there exists a remarkable custom of initiatory probation 
 for the young men, in the arts of pillage and war. When 
 arrived at the age judged fit for bearing arms, and being 
 useful to the tribe, they assemble in bands, to the number 
 of thirty or fifty, according to circumstances, in the 
 spring ; and taking formal leave of their relations and 
 friends, depart to some secret place in the woodlands. 
 There they erect a tent, with a number of poles, about 
 thirty feet long each, planted in a circle in the ground, 
 and brought to a point at the top. This they cover 
 closely with boughs and leaves, so as to render the inte- 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 219 
 
 rior quite impenetrable to human observation from the 
 outside. The entrance is by a closely-wattled door, 
 equally impervious to human vision. This they make 
 their temple. Inside, from the top of the conical roof, they 
 hang a fresh buffalo-hide ; and below it, round the sides, 
 camp-kettles, and blankets : and some arms, as the neces- 
 sary accompaniments in their expeditions — scalps, the 
 emblems of victory — and the skin of a white buffalo (a 
 most rare and precious animal), — as offerings to the 
 Great Spirit. Then they commence the ceremony of in- 
 Yoking the aid of this spirit ; and consecrating them- 
 selves to their future pursuits, and the general interest of 
 their tribe. Their principal ceremonial is the smoking 
 of the mystic pipe. The person appointed as priest first 
 uses the pipe — exhaling the vapovir through his nostrils 
 — then touches the ground, and aflerwards his limbs, 
 with the lower part of the bowl, and hands the pipe round 
 on the right hand, to the rest, who do the same. This 
 rite ended, they offer a solemn supplication to the Great 
 Spirit for success ; and make a solemn vow, that if the 
 evil one do not enter and enfeeble them, they will never 
 again return to their relatives and tribe, except in gar- 
 ments stained with the blood of their enemies. Afler 
 this, they dance to the music of a war-chaunt, until they 
 become exhausted. They spend three days and nights 
 in the performance of these rites, without eating or drink- 
 ing. From the languor of body, and the high excitement 
 of the imagination, produced during this time, their sleep 
 must be broken, and visited with visions adapted to their 
 views. They therefore imagine that the spirits of the 
 brave dead, allowed to descend by the Great Spirit, visit 
 them, and direct them in their future course of opera- 
 tions. On the morning of the fourth day, at dawn, they 
 sally forth from their temple ; each separately, and by a 
 different route, to some distant spot which they had pre- 
 viously agreed on as a rendezvous ; where they are to 
 concert their future schemes of operation. After they 
 
220 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 quit the temple, hungry and feeble, they must provide, 
 every man for himself, until they meet. If they are un- 
 able to fulfil the terms of their vow during- the first season, 
 from lack of an enemy, on whom to flesh their maiden 
 weapons, they retire to winter-quarters to v/ait their op- 
 portunity. If no human game is on foot, they are obliged 
 to resort to some ingenious mode of keeping the vow ; 
 for the quicker their return home, the higher their repu- 
 tation. A solitary trapper, well known to the tribe to 
 which a band of these disappointed noviciates belonged, 
 once dropped in their way. They gave him hospitable 
 cheer. But he soon discovered that they began angrily 
 to debate among themselves as to the propriety of shed- 
 ding his blood. One party contended, that, though he 
 was the acquaintance of their fathers, yet he was a white 
 man, and all white men were their natural enemies ; and 
 that though he ate with them, he did not give them hos- 
 pitality ; and besides, that, when they were disappointed 
 in the wilderness, he was thrown into their way by the 
 Great Spirit, in order to enable them to fulfil the terms 
 of their vow, and to return to their homes and friends. 
 Against this, it w^as maintained that the white men were 
 not of necessity their natural enemies, for some of them 
 did them good service; — that as this man was called 
 brother and friend by their fathers, he ought to be so 
 considered in reality ; — that, as they invited him to cat, 
 they pledged themselves to the same friendship towards 
 him as was shown by their fathers ; — that thus to lure 
 him to destruction, was not the act of brave men, who 
 expected reward from the Great Spirit, or approbation 
 from their fathers ; — tiiat if lie were at all thrown in 
 their v/ay by any supernatural agency, it was by that of 
 the Evil one, who wished to tempt tliem, by a cowardly 
 and dishonourable act, to exasperate the Great and Good 
 Spirit in slaying a friend and brother. A compromise 
 was at last effected between the parties, by taking his 
 blood without taking his life. A sharp flint-lancet was 
 
OREGON TERRITORY, 221 
 
 applied to his veins, vvliich gave blood enough to dye 
 their garments : and thus they returned home with their 
 vow fulfilled, at least to the letter ; and the trapper re- 
 turned to the mountains." 
 
 These temples are held sacred and inviolable. They 
 are suffered to remain, with all their valuable offerings 
 untouched, as memorials of piety ; and it is death for any 
 one to take from them a single article. 
 
 Within the Colorado and the Great Salt Lake, there 
 dwells a tribe which is one of the most degraded of the 
 whole human race, physically and mentally — the Piutes. 
 They are entirely naked — men and women : and their 
 only food is lizards, snails, and wild roots. When the 
 snow falls heavily, and these means of subsistence fail 
 them, for they are utterly improvident, thc}'^ burrow holes 
 in the sides of tlie sandhills, and there vegetate in a state 
 of somnolent torpor till the opening of the season. Then 
 they crawl abroad, " anatomies of death," to eke out their 
 wretched living ; and, until they acquire sufficient 
 strength to forage at large, eat grass on their hands and 
 knees like beasts. The trappers say, that after a severe 
 season, the ground about their caverns may be seen 
 covered with the bodies of famished dead. Their only 
 weapons are clubs, and in the use of even these they are 
 unskilful. 
 
 19* 
 
222 OREGON TERRITOHV. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Fort Hall — Trappers— Buffalo— Shooting the rapids— Passage 
 from the United States across the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 Fort Hall, one of the remotest stations, situated in 
 the third section, on the southeast, near the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, was built in 1832, by Captain Wyeth, an American, 
 who first tried the speculation of a salmon fishery at the 
 lower parts of the Columbia, and failed ; he then tried a 
 fur-trading speculation, and also failed, from want of 
 skill, or capital, or liberality of dealing. The Company 
 purchased this post from him on liberal terms ; and the 
 purchase to him was almost equivalent to a gratuity ; as 
 he had no means of otherwise disposing of his stock, and 
 receiving any remuneration for his outlay. At this 
 station, which commands a wide range of trading opera- 
 tions, clothing of every kind, provisions, and ammunition 
 are supplied to the Indians and tlie free traders ; as are 
 also horses, accoutrements, and other necessaries, for that 
 wild and desolate country. So liberal is the Company, 
 and so strong is the mutual confidence between the par- 
 ties, that the horses are given as a loan ; and the other 
 articles are sold on credit, and at a moderate charge, to 
 be paid for when the skins are brought in, at the proper 
 season ; no security being given or required, except the 
 honour of the recipients of the favours. So that if the hunt- 
 ers fail, from death, casualty, or dishonesty, to fulfil their 
 share of the contract, the Company have no remedy. The 
 Company, even in this wa}^ — on credit, sell their goods at 
 one half of what the Americans charge ; and pay much 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 223 
 
 Jiighcr for the goods received than the Americans. This 
 liberality of treatment, and the nniform justice of the 
 Company, are so strongly contrasted with the conduct of 
 the American merchants, that (to use the words of Mr. 
 Farnham, v/ho was hospitably entertained there after 
 crossing the mountains), " even the American trappers 
 are fast leaving the service of their countrymen, for the 
 larger profits, and better treatment, of British employ- 
 ment." There is also a company of men connected with 
 this fort, under the command of an American moun- 
 taineer, who, following various tribes in their migratory 
 expeditions, in the adjacent Mexican and American do- 
 inain, collect whatever fur may chance to be among them. 
 By these means, and various others subsidiary to them, 
 the gentleman in charge of the establishment collected, in 
 the summer of 1839, more than thirty packs of the best 
 beaver of the mountains. 
 
 Many stories are told at the fort of the strange adven- 
 tures, and " hair breadth 'scapes" of the free mounted 
 trappers. But it may be worth while to mention one, 
 which Richardson, a Kentuckyman, long known to the 
 servants of the Company as one of the most astute and 
 dare-devil traders of the mountains, used to tell. It is his 
 boast that he never carries provisions on the most dreary 
 and distant journeys. His good horse, his trusty rifle, 
 his pistols, and his knife ; his steel flint, his traps, a coil 
 of cord, a wallet, are his only accompaniments ; and his 
 only trust in Providence. Furnished with these, I have 
 heard him say, he fears nothing, over river, or frozen lake, 
 or mountain, or barren plain. Sometimes he attaches 
 himself to a party ; and sometimes forages and hunts 
 alone. He was once out alone hunting buffaloes, and at 
 the close of day was returning to his tent, when he heard 
 a clattering of hoofs behind him, and, upon looking back, 
 he observed three Blackfeet Indians, well mounted, in hot 
 pursuit of him. He immediately threw off his cargo of 
 meat to lighten his horse ; and then urged onward the 
 
224 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 animal to his utmost speed, in hopes to outstrip his pur- 
 suers. But he discovered that the enemy was gaining' 
 rapidly upon him, and would soon have him at their 
 mercy. He then adopted an expedient as singularly in- 
 genious as it was desperately bold. Drawing his long 
 scalping knife, he plunged it into his horse's neck, and at 
 once severed the spine. The animal dropped instantly 
 dead, and the determined hunter, throwing himself behind 
 the fallen carcass, prepared to meet his pursuers. In a 
 moment one of the Indians came within range of his rifle, 
 and was shot through the heart. The other two, seeing 
 the fate of their companion, halted for a moment, and 
 then prepared to surround their enemy. But just as the 
 first man had sent his ball whistling by the ear of Richard- 
 son, he himself dropped from his horse, by a ball from 
 one of Richardson's long pistols. The third seeing this 
 rather dangerous game to play, whipped his horse, and 
 was soon out of sight. Richardson had then only to 
 gather the fruits of his victory. He caught the two In- 
 dians' horses — mounted one — loaded the other with the 
 discharged cargo of meat, and returned home with two 
 spare rifles, and a good stock of ammunition. 
 
 The Indian wives of the Company's trappers can fre- 
 quently hunt as well as their husbands — kill the elk and 
 buflTalo — trap the beaver, and use the rifle. Living so 
 much in the open air, and leading so active a life, and 
 generally so well fed, they are athletic and active. It is 
 no uncommon occurrence to find them, on their lonely 
 excursions with their husbands, or even when travelling 
 with a party, give birth to an infant silently, and without 
 assistance ; and in an hour after they have recovered 
 from the languor, tie up the infant — hoist it on their 
 back, and proceed with their usual occupation. 
 
 The kind of lodges generally used by the mountain 
 Indians while travelling, and by the trapping parties, are 
 of a conical form, composed of ten long poles, the lower 
 ends of which are pointed, and driven into the ground, 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 225 
 
 the upper blunt, and drawn together by thongs. Above, 
 arid around these poles, several dressed buffalo-skins, 
 sewed together, are stretched, a hole being left on one 
 side for an entrance. They are comfortable and commo- 
 dious ; and in the erection of them, the Indian women, to 
 whom the office is generally left, are singularly expert. 
 A squaw, accustomed to the work, will erect and prepare 
 one for the reception of her husband, while he is remov- 
 ing the burden from his horse- An expert Indian woman 
 has been known to stretch a lodge in half the time re- 
 quired by four white men to erect another in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 Having already quoted the best authority for convey- 
 ing an idea of tiie conduct of the American traders and 
 trappers, and of the contrast between them and those in 
 the service of the Company — i. e., American authority ; 
 I beg to introduce one quotation more. Mr. Townsend, 
 speaking of Mr. M'Kay's party, already mentioned, in 
 which there were thirteen Indians — Perces, Kayouse, 
 and others — says ; " After supper was concluded, we sat 
 ourselves down on a buffalo-robe, at the entrance of the 
 tent, to see the Indians at their evening devotions- The 
 whole thirteen were soon collected, at the call of one 
 whom they had chosen for their chief, and seated with 
 sober, sedate countenances around a large fire. After re- 
 maining in perfect silence for, perhaps, fifteen minutes, 
 the chi-ef commenced a harangue in a solemn, impressive 
 tone ; reminding them of the object for which they were 
 assembled — that of worshipping ' the Great Spirit, who 
 made the light, and the darkness, the earth, and the 
 water,' — and then assured them, that if they offered up 
 their prayers to him with one tongue, they would ccr- 
 tainly be accepted. He then rose from his squatting po- 
 sition to his knees, and his example was followed by all 
 the otiiers. In this situation he commenced a prayer, 
 consisting of short sentences, uttered rapidly, but with 
 great apparent fervour — his hands clasped on his breast, 
 
226 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 and his eyes cast upwards with a beseeching look to- 
 wards heaven. At the conchision of each sentence, a 
 choral response of a few words was made, accompanied, 
 frequently, by low moaning. The prayer lasted about 
 twenty minutes. After its conclusion, the chief, still 
 maintaining the same position of body and hands, but 
 with his head bent to his breast, commenced a kind of 
 psalm, or sacred song, in which the whole company 
 joined. The song was a simple expression of a few 
 sounds, no intelligible words being uttered. It resembled 
 the words Ho-ha — Ho-ha — Ho-ha — commencing in a low 
 tone, and gradually swelling to a full, round chorus. 
 During the song, the clasped hands of the worshippers 
 were moved rapidly across the breast, and their bodies 
 swung with great energy to the time of the music. The 
 chief ended the song he had commenced by a kind of 
 swelling groan, which was echoed in chorus. It was 
 then taken up by another, and the same routine was 
 gone through. The whole ceremony occupied about an 
 hour and a half. A short silence then succeeded, after 
 whicli each Indian rose from the ground, and disappeared 
 in the darkness, with a step as noiseless as that of a 
 spectre. I think I was never more gratified by any ex- 
 hibition in my life. The humble and beseeching looks 
 of the untutored beings who were calling on their hea- 
 venly Father to forgive their sins, and continue his 
 mercies, and the evident heartfelt sincerity which charac- 
 terized the whole scene, were truly affecting and impres- 
 sive." He then proceeds to say, that, ••' The next day, 
 being the Sabbath, our good missionary, Mr. Jason Lee 
 (he was a Methodist, and belonged to the writer's Ameri- 
 can party), was requested to hold a meeting, with which 
 he obligingly complied. The greater part of our men, as 
 well as the whole of Mr. M'Kay's party, including the 
 Indians, attended. The people were remarkably quiet 
 and attentive ; and the Indians sat on the ground like 
 statues. Although not one of them could understand a 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 227 
 
 word that was spoken, they nevertheless maintained the 
 most strict and decorous silence, kneeling- when the 
 preacher kneeled, and rising when he rose .... Mr. Lee 
 is a great favourite with the men, deservedly so, and 
 there are, probably, few persons to whose preaching they 
 tcould huve listened with so much complaisance. I have 
 often been amused and pleased by Mr. Lee's manner of 
 reproving them for the coarseness, and profanity, of ex- 
 pression, which is so universal among them." 
 
 Let the reader contrast this account of Mr. M'Kay's 
 party, including the Indians, with the following descrip- 
 tion, given six pages further, of an American debauch ; 
 bearing in mind that the Company's men are not allowed 
 the use of spirits. "• At sunrise the ' star-spangled 
 banner^ was raised on the flag-staff. All in the camp 
 were allowed the free use of liquor; and, as usual, the 
 consequence was a scene of rioting, noise, and fighting 
 during the whole day. Some became so drunk that their 
 senses fled them entirely ; and they were, therefore, 
 harmless; but by far the greater number were suffi- 
 ciently under the influence of the vile trash, to render 
 them in their conduct disgusting and tiger-like. We 
 had gouging^ biting, Jisticvffing, and stamping, in the 
 most scientific perfection. Some even fired guns and 
 pistols at each other. Such scenes I hope never to wit- 
 ness again ; they are absolutely sickening ; and cause us 
 to look on our countrymen with loathing." 
 
 7%e Buffalo, or wild American ox, which formerly 
 abounded in most parts of North America, is every day 
 becoming scarcer, in proportion as civilization and culti- 
 vation advance. It was found throughout the whole 
 range now occupied by the United States, with the ex- 
 ception of that part which lies east of Hudson's River 
 and Lake Champlain, and of narrow and swampy strips 
 of coast on the Atlantic Gulf of Mexico. The fineness of 
 the buffalo wool, which within a few years has caused it 
 to become an object of commerce, for the manufacture of 
 
228 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 hats and cloths, is mentioned by Morton, a New England 
 settler, in 1637. He says, "their fleeces are very useful, 
 being a kind of wolle, as fine almost as the wolle of the 
 beaver." At present they are seldom seen east of the 
 Mississippi, and south of the St. Lawrence. But they 
 are found in considerable numbers west of the Rocky 
 Mountains, in the Columbian region, nearly to the borders 
 of California, and west of Lake Winipeg, up to the sixty- 
 third degree. Their general colour is dun ; sometimes 
 they are spotted. The frame of the buffalo is larger 
 than that of the generality of domestic cattle ; and, though 
 the fore parts are uncouth, the hind parts are handsomely, 
 and rather delicately formed. It looks very formidable, 
 from its large shoulder hump, its flowing wiry mane, 
 and sweeping beard, and thick horns, curved backwards. 
 A herd of buffaloes, when pursued, especially if there 
 be a great number of bulls, emits a strong odour of musk, 
 Avhicli is left in their wake ; and their feet make a loud 
 crackling noise. Their sense of smell is very acute. 
 Sometimes they will scent a man, if to the windward of 
 them, at the distance of two or three miles ; and then 
 they will gallop away with the greatest speed. When 
 they cannot scent a man, they will bear his near ap- 
 proach, or advance themselves very near him, without 
 any shyness. Whether this is to be attributed to the im- 
 perfect vision of the animal, whose eyes are obscured by 
 the great quantity of hair which covers his face, or not, 
 it is not easy to determine. Though buffaloes and elks 
 are seen on the same prairies, they do not herd together. 
 Wolves commonly attend them ; and neither seem to 
 molest the other. It is almost impossible to kill this ani- 
 mal by shooting it through the head or chest : the head 
 is so protected by a matting of coarse wiry hair, that a 
 ball becomes entangled in it before reaching the bone ; 
 and the chest is so fenced by a bulwark of bone, that it 
 will require many bullets to penetrate it. Accordingly, 
 the hunters contrive to gallop by the side of the animal. 
 
OREGON TERRITORV. 229 
 
 and shoot it, with bullet or arrow, behind the shoulder- 
 blade. 
 
 They sometimes congregate in such myriads, on the 
 prairies west of the Rocky Mountains, that the whole 
 circle of vision within the bounds of the horizon presents 
 one dark mass of these animals. The bulls march at 
 the head of the cows ; and it is then dangerous to en- 
 counter them : for if they become enraged or frightened, 
 the whole herd start off in a straight line, and in close 
 order, regardless of all obstacles ; and would crush to 
 pieces men, horses, and wagons, if in their way. Some 
 of these bulls weigh three thousand pounds each. When 
 there is abundance of this sort of game, the hunters often 
 content themselves with the choice parts — the tongue — 
 the slices by the hump ribs — and the marrow ; the car- 
 cass being left to the wolves. This waste often leads to 
 woful want. When this animal is hunted, he becomes 
 sometimes bewildered, and exasperated ; and turns round 
 on his pursuers : then it is inevitable death to come 
 within range of his horns. 
 
 Shooting the rapids. — When a boat enters the rapids 
 of the Columbia, the bowman and the steersman quickly 
 resign their oars, and grasp short canoe-paddles, which 
 they hold down edgewise, by the boat's sides, propping 
 themselves, at the same time, against her gunwale, to 
 steady her ; while the rowers, in the middle, ply their 
 oars most vigorously : and then the boat sweeps on- 
 ward — rising, or ducking, or spinning about, according 
 as she is borne by the current or the eddies ; to the great 
 terror of those who, for the first time, are thus wliirled 
 along. The success of such a perilous adventure mainly 
 depends on the steadiness and skill of the two guides, at 
 the stem and stern — the efforts of the middle men being, 
 mainly, to keep the boat buoyant. The contrast between 
 the Canadian voyageurs and the Indians, in performing 
 this feat, is remarkable and characteristic : those merrily 
 20 
 
230 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 chdunt their boa.t-song ; but these are as silent and stern 
 as death. 
 
 Passage from the States through the Rocky Mountains. 
 — Though several parties have penetrated into the Ore- 
 gon Territory from the United States, through the gorges, 
 and over the towering heights, of the Rocky Mountains, 
 yet it may be safely asserted, from the concurrent testi- 
 mony of traders, trappers, and settlers, who have them- 
 selves passed these natural barriers, that the difficulties 
 are so numerous and formidable, and the time necessary 
 for the passage so long, that there is no secure, expedi- 
 tious, or commodious track, which can be ever used as a 
 highway, so as to afford facilities for an influx of emi- 
 grants over-land. Several routes have been tried of late ; 
 and each differs only from the other in the privations 
 which the passengers undergo. None but tlie wild and 
 fearless free-trappers can clamber over these precipices, 
 and tread these deserts with security ; and even these 
 are quitting them as haunts, and now using them only 
 as unavoidable tracks. It is true, there have been pub- 
 lished more favourable accounts within the last year or 
 two by parties who have made the journey safely, and 
 who encourage others to make a similar experiment. 
 But these accounts are in such a spirit of bravado, and 
 accompanied with expressions of thankfulness by the 
 parties for their own success, that they are indirect proofs 
 of the difficulty and danger of the undertaking, and of 
 the utter hopelessness of such a route for general pur- 
 poses. For hundreds of miles, the several tracks present 
 nothing but frightful barrenness under-foot, and over- 
 head, scorching heat, or piercing cold. The country, 
 even west of the Rocky Mountains, is broken with tower- 
 ing cliffs, deep ravines, and sunken streams, from which 
 the traveller cannot draw a drop to allay his burning 
 thirst ; and the soil is either sandy, in which he sinks at 
 every step ; or of a black, rugged stone, which tears his 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 231 
 
 feet. The travellers have been obliged to feed on the 
 lean carcasses of their animals, which have died from 
 hunger, thirst, or fatigue. Farnham says, that his party- 
 were at last obliged to kill their universal favourite and 
 pet — their dog ; and economize his flesh. He further 
 says, that during eight days' journey — and he had pro- 
 ceeded with the expedition of one travelling for life — he 
 had not met with a single acre of land capable of pro- 
 ducing grain or vegetables. 
 
 Another American traveller — Townsend, says : " Our 
 only food was the dried, crumbling, meat which we car- 
 ried ; and chewed like biscuits as we travelled. There 
 are two reasons by which the extreme thirst which the 
 wayfarer suffers, in these regions, may be accounted for 
 — first, the intense heat of the sun, upon the open and 
 exposed plains ; and secondly, the desiccation to which 
 every thing here is subject. The air feels like the breath 
 of a sirroco ; the tongue becomes parched and horny ; 
 and the eyes, mouth, and nose are incessantly assailed 
 by the fine, pulverized lava, which rises from the ground 
 with the least breath of air. Bullets, pebbles of chalce- 
 dony, and pieces of smooth obsidian, were in great requi- 
 sition : almost every man was mumbling some of these 
 substances, in an endeavour to assuage his burning 
 thirst." The lead bullets, and the other substances which 
 they chewed were for the purpose of producing spittle, 
 which they would swallow to prevent inflammation and 
 death. 
 
 There are, however, certain declinations called gaps 
 through which (though with great labour), a tedious, and 
 dreary passage can be effected. The most frequent of 
 these is the most northern, between Mounts Brown and 
 Hooker, through which the Company's servants pass in 
 their journey from Columbia to Hudson's Bay. This is, 
 comparatively, an easy passage. There is another be- 
 tween the head-waters of the Flathead and Marias Rivers- 
 
232 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 Another between Lewis and Clarke's River, in the Ore- 
 gon, and the sources of the Missouri. And anether, 
 which is very important, lies between Long's Mountains, 
 and the Wind River cluster. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Missionaries. 
 
 Having already, in various parts of this work, when 
 describing the customs of the natives, prepared the 
 reader for forming a judgment of the religious tendencies 
 of their minds; and shown their aptitude for the recep- 
 tion of Christian truth, I beg to offer a few remarks on the 
 culpable neglect of the mental, moral, and religious cul- 
 ture evinced by the missionary societies of Great Britain, 
 and by successive governments, towards those people who 
 are, in truth, de facto, however questionable it may be 
 that they are dejure, subjects of the British crown. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company, it cannot be doubted, 
 exercises almost absolute sway over the whole of the 
 northwest of America, and, it may be averred, also over 
 the Oregon country. Their power is the only civilized 
 power known to the Indians which they show any dispo- 
 sition to yield to, or even respect. Independently of the 
 vast and complex machinery of internal and coasting 
 commerce, which they have set to work throughout those 
 almost boundless tracts — a machinery reduced to the 
 most perfect and unerring regularity — and indepen- 
 dently of the sway which their numerous servants, 
 scattered far and wide, and intermingling with the na- 
 tives, can give the Company — the strict honesty of their 
 dealings (for they are now become too powerful and too 
 wealthy to be placed under any necessity of practising 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 233 
 
 either fraud or oppression to carry on their trade, and too 
 humane and prudent to resort to these vile American ex- 
 pedients), and their humane endeavours to lift, as far as 
 lies within their individual scope, the natives from their 
 prostration and ignorance to the rank of Christianized and 
 civilized men — endeavours which the natives are sagacious 
 enough to perceive, and honest enough to acknowledge 
 (speaking generally), have struck the roots of their power 
 deep into the hearts of the aborigines. 
 
 The Russians and the Americans are the only two 
 nations that come, even remotely, in contact with the 
 British in those countries ; and both are equally powerless 
 and uninfluential with the natives. The Russians, for the 
 most part, confine themselves to their own territory — a 
 strip of sea coast, beyond the 54^ of north latitude. Even 
 here thy can hardly be said to exercise direct power, or 
 even to have much injiuence. They have posts, it is true, 
 stationed there ; one especially at Sitska, in the Kamtshcat- 
 ka country — a large one, which is worthy of some notice, 
 and to which the Hudson's Bay Company, by a com- 
 mercial contract, entered into lately, supply provisions. 
 They, however, are barely traders ; carrying off the pro- 
 ducts of the country, without taking much interest in the 
 condition of the natives : neither caring for them, or cared 
 for by them. The Americans hold a position inferior 
 still ; for they have not one inch of land from California 
 to the Pole — from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, to 
 which they have undisputed right ; and not one single 
 trading post or station along that immeasurable range of 
 coast and country. They do trade, it is true, as well as 
 they can, throughout this vast expanse. But then, from 
 their principles of conducting trade, and the domineering 
 disposition evinced by their irresponsible traders, they 
 have lost all hold of the respect and confidence of the 
 natives. It may be, therefore, averred, without any 
 chance of effective contradiction, that while the British 
 possess substantial and enduring power, through the 
 
234 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 agency of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Americans 
 have, not to say a shadow of poicer, but they have not 
 even injluence with the natives — from north to south — 
 from east to west ; for they are looked on by them with 
 distrust and hatred. Such, then, being the real position 
 of the relative parties, and such the hold which the 
 British have over the natives, it is deeply to be lamented 
 that no general and effectual course has been adopted to 
 bring them within the pale of Christianity and civilization. 
 Perhaps on the whole surface of the earth there is not a 
 wider and more easy field for the operation of the mis- 
 sionaries, or one from which a richer harvest could be 
 reaped. The natives are, generally, of a yielding and 
 plastic character ; and the principles of their belief, ab- 
 stractedly from their various superstitions, harmonize in 
 some measure with the elementary truths of the Bible. 
 
 Without enmnerating the various points in their natural 
 theology, or giving a repetition of the several heads of 
 creed professed by the different tribes, it will be quite 
 enough for my purpose to say, that they believe in the 
 existence of a great superintending Spirit, who created 
 the world and all beings on it, rational and irrational ; 
 who still exercises a paternal power and supervision over 
 his creatures — that they believe in the existence of a 
 subordinate spirit, whose motives are evil, and whose 
 dwelling is in fire, and v.hose whole aim is to neutralize 
 the beneficence of the great Good Spirit towards his 
 earthly creatures, and to tempt these creatures to evil — 
 that they believe in the immortality of the soul, and in a 
 state of future rewards and punishments, commensurate 
 with their earthly merits or demerits — that they believe 
 these merits consist in the faithful discharge of all the 
 domestic and social duties— that they believe it is incum. 
 bent on them to offer daily homage to this Good Spirit — 
 that they believe this Spirit sometimes condescends, on 
 great occasions, to hold converse with their great and 
 good men, or communicate his wiil by nocturnal visions. 
 Some of them go farther, and believe in the fallen state of 
 
OREGON TERRITORY. 235 
 
 man; some in a subordinate agent, identified with the 
 Good and Great Spirit, doing his earthly work. Some, 
 again, in their belief approach tJie historical truths of the 
 Old Testament. They believe that this world was, in its 
 primeval state, a fluid mass, enveloped in darkness, and 
 yielding no living or growing thing — animal or vegetable ; 
 but that the Great Spirit descended upon it in the shape 
 of a huge bird, and, by brooding over it, gave it consis- 
 tency and solidity — created the sun and moon, and all 
 animated things on the earth. (This is the scriptural 
 account : in which the words — " the Spirit of God moved 
 on the surface of the waters," strictly means, "the Spirit 
 of God brooded (like a bird) on the surface of the waters") 
 — that there soon arose a general corruption among man- 
 kind ; and then men lived a long time ; — that there was a 
 general deluge, which swept away almost all men and 
 animals — that some few were saved — that after that men 
 became wicked again ; and then our ancestors came from 
 the rising sun, a great distance. 
 
 It deserves to be noticed, that, before the conquest of 
 Canada, the Jesuit missionaries propagated, to a vast ex- 
 tent, the principles of the Christian faith among the 
 remotest tribes : and did it successfully. And, had not 
 the conquest taken place, there would have now been 
 diffused, to the most inaccessible heights and deepest 
 dells of the continent, Christianity — perhaps Christianity 
 in a bad form, but yet Christianity in all its elements — 
 better than no Christianity at all. I regret to be obliged 
 to state, that since the conquest, but little, comparatively, 
 has been done for the conversion of the natives in the 
 interior, and west. This is a complaint made by others. 
 It is true, there is a school for missionaries, at Red River 
 settlement ; but it is, necessarily, on too limited a scale 
 for general purposes. 
 
 I have heard often, from our voyageurs and trappers, 
 that they saw rude crosses painted on lowly and deserted 
 huts, or cut on trees, in the interior of the country, one 
 thousand miles beyond the bounds of civilization. To 
 
236 OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 these emblems there is always a devotional reverence 
 paid, for there is associated with them a traditionary 
 record in the Indian mind, that they were the work of 
 " the good white fathers, who, unlike other white men, 
 never robbed or cheated them." 
 
 But, exclusively of the humanity of converting the 
 Indians to Christianity on sober and rational principles, 
 there is a high principle of state policy involved in it. 
 If the natives were converted, through the instrumentality 
 of the Church of England, or even of British dissenters, 
 to Christianity, they would, en masse, attach themselves 
 to Great Britain. But as England has not used this 
 powerful lever to move them, and as they are left through 
 this culpable apathy and neglect to the influence of the 
 Papal power, (which has already, within a few months, 
 inducted a bishop to the Oregon district, under the title 
 of " Bishop of Philadelphia, iii partibus injidelium,''^) 
 and to the dissenters that swarm into the country from 
 the United States, the British tenure of their affections 
 must soon be enfeebled. 
 
 The American missionaries are used by the American 
 government, and fairly represented by the American 
 writers, as political instruments, in exercising their in- 
 fluence with the natives, to attach them to republican 
 institutions, and to make them the passive recipients of 
 all sorts of anti-British antipathies : and thus the Ameri- 
 cans hope to recover the position in the country which 
 they lost by their want of integrity, or energy, as 
 traders. This is well worth the consideration of the 
 British government, and the British Missionary Societies. 
 I shall conclude by repeating, that there is not, in the' 
 world, a finer or an easier field for the holy work ot 
 Christian conversion. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 HOME & TRAYELLER'S 
 LIBRARY. 
 
 No. I.— TEXAS AND THE CULF OF MEXICO; OR, 
 
 YACHTING IN THE NEW WORLD. By Mrs. 
 
 Houstoun. With Illustrations. Price 25 Cents. 
 No. II.— THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT. By Mrs. 
 
 Poole. With an Engraving of the Interior of the Great 
 
 Pyramid. Price 25 Cents. 
 No. III.— NIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE. By Mrs. 
 
 Johnstone, author of "Clan Albyn," "Elizabeth De 
 
 Bruce," &c. Price 25 Cents. 
 No. IV.— SKETCHES OF IMPOSTURE, CREDULITY, 
 
 AND FANATICISM. Price 25 Cents. 
 No. v.— THE OPIUM WAR; BEING RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 OF SERVICE IN CHINA. By Captain Arthur Cu- 
 
 nynghame. Price 25 Cents. 
 No. VI. — IMPRESSIONS OF IRELAND AND THE 
 
 IRISH. By the author of " Random Recollections of 
 
 the Lords and Commons," "The Great Metropolis," 
 
 &c. Price 25 Cents. 
 
 No. VII.— DONALDSON'S EVENTFUL LIFE OF A SOL- 
 DIER. Price 25 Cents. 
 
 No. VIII.— DUNN'S HISTORY OF THE OREGON TERRI- 
 TORY AND BRITISH NORTH AMERICAN FUR 
 TRADE. Price 25 Cents. 
 
 No. IX. will contain the Mutiny at the Nore. 
 
NOTICES OF THE PRESS. 
 
 " Home and Traveller's Library. — Messrs. Zieber & Co. 
 are men of enterprise, uprightness and go-aheadism. They 
 do business on the correct principle, viz. — quick sales and 
 short profits, and make money of course. The next enter- 
 prise of theirs is to be 'The Home and Traveller's Library,' 
 — a series of books, in the cheap form, for general circulation 
 among ail classes. They are to be valuable, interesting, and 
 agreeable. And the Editor is a guarantee. He is exceedingly 
 well qualified. This series will be decidedly popular." — Sat. 
 Courier. 
 
 NEW BOOKS. 
 
 TEXAS AND THE GULF OF MEXICO. 
 
 Mrs. Houstoun's excellent and entertaining work entitled 
 " Texas and Mexico, or Yachting in the New World," has been 
 published in a very pretty and neat style, by Messrs. Zieber 
 &Co. 
 
 We perceive that this is the first of a series of semi-monthly 
 publications to be entitled "The Home and Traveller's Libra- 
 ry," and from a knowledge of the Editor's capabilities we 
 cannot doubt that the selection of books to be included in the 
 "Library" will be of the best and most improving character. 
 In these days when the stores are filled with cheap and trashy 
 publications, the fruit of an unparalleled facility of production, 
 a good hand regulated by a properly constituted and trained 
 mind is absolutely necessary to keep our reading confined only 
 to the good to the exclusion of the bad. This semi-monthly 
 series of publications will no doubt be a proper means of 
 affording good reading. — U. S. Gazette. 
 
THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT. 
 
 BV MR?. lOOLE. 
 
 This is the title of an interesting series of " Letters from a 
 Hareem," (the old word harem is said to be obsolete,) pub- 
 lished by G. B. Zicber and Co. Some of the letters are dated 
 1844; they are written by Mrs. Poole, a sister of E. W. Lane, 
 so favourably known in England and this country for his 
 " Modern Egyptians," and his new version of the " Arabian 
 Nights." Mrs. Poole had access to the hareems of the Pasha 
 and other noble Mohammedans, as well as to the Mosques. 
 For this she was indebted not only to her connexion with 
 eminent Europeans resident at Cairo, but to her adoption of 
 the Turkish dress and manners. She describes her mode of 
 eating, after the custom of the country, in a very amusing 
 manner. — Neal's Saturday Gazelle. 
 
 The description of the Pyramids in the concluding chapters 
 of the Englishwoman in Egypt, is remarkably clear, especially 
 illustrated as it is by drawings. We have learned much more 
 of the subject by reading it, than we did from one of Mr. 
 Gliddon's lectures on the same subject. — Berks and Schuylkill 
 Journal. 
 
 From a Review of the Englishwoman in Egypt, in Blackwood's 
 Magazine. 
 Part of the work is taken from the MS. notes of Mrs. Poole's 
 brother, E. W. Lane, author of the Modern Egyptians; but 
 the authoress can very well afford to rest her claim to popu- 
 larity on her own merits ; and, we prefer to follow her in her 
 own peculiar sphere, into those mysterious recesses of an 
 oriental establishment, whither no male footstep can ever 
 penetrate. Mrs. Poole is probably the first English lady who 
 has been admitted, not merely as a passing visiter, but as a 
 privileged friend, into the hareems of those of the highest 
 
rank in the Egyptian capital. We find her threading the nar- 
 row and crowded thoroughfares of Cairo, borne aloft on the 
 " high ass," (the usual mode of conveyance for morning calls,) 
 and are introduced to the wives and daughters of the viceroy, 
 and even, (in the hareem of Habeeb EfFendi,) to ladies of the 
 imperial house of Othman, in the ease and disinvoltura of Iheir 
 domestic circles, amid that atmosphere ofdolcefar niente and 
 graceful etiquette, in which the hours of an oriental princess 
 appear to be habitually passed. 
 
 With the exception of Lady Mary Wortley Montague's 
 piquant sketches of the Turkish hareems and their inmates, 
 and the singular narrative of her personal experience of life 
 in an Indian Zenana, by Mrs. Meer Hassan All, we know no 
 female writer who has enjoyed such opportunities for the de- 
 lineation of the scenes of domestic privacy in the East, and 
 who has so well availed herself of them, as the sister of 3/an- 
 soor Effendi, in the pages before us." 
 
 "This delightful volume is in all respects what it should be ; 
 full of information and truth, and free from pedantry ; all feel- 
 ing of tediousness is lost in the single wish that there was 
 more." — Smith's Weekly Volume. 
 
 " The excellent little book which results from Mrs. Poole's 
 observations, gives us, in a few pages, more information on 
 the grand mystery of Oriental homes, than we have ever 
 been able to draw from other sources." — London Quarterly 
 Review. 
 
 "All the men in Europe together could never have gained 
 or imparled the information in this book," — London Morning 
 Post. 
 
 " Emphatically the book of a lady." — Frazer. 
 
 " Informing, sprightly, and entertaining." — JS'eio Montldy. 
 
 •' The first good book on Egypt by a lady,'' — 7'a//, 
 
" Most agreeable and entertaining." — Chambers. 
 
 " These interesting letters are written by Mrs. Poole, a sis- 
 ter of E. W. Lane, so favourably known in England and this 
 country for his ' Modern Egyptians,' and his new version of 
 the Arabian Nights. Mrs. Poole had access to the Harems of 
 the Pasha and other noble Mahommedans, as well as to the 
 Mosques." — Neal's Saturday Gazette. 
 
 " A series of lady-like, chaste, and yet extremely critical 
 observations on the present state of Egypt."— Gliddon's Lec- 
 tures on Egypt. 
 
 NIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE, OR STORIES OF 
 AUNT JANE AND HER FRIENDS. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF CLAN ALBIN. 
 
 Zieber&Co. Philad. 
 
 " This book, the third of the series entitled ' The Home and 
 Traveller's Library,' is a collection of pleasant stories, of a 
 kind calculated to do good, as well as to amuse. This volume 
 strengthens the good opinion already formed of the library. If 
 the publishers proceed as they have commenced, they will 
 give families one of the most valuable cabinets of miscellane- 
 ous readmg ever printed." — Saturday Post. 
 
 •'The Nights of the Round Table exhibit so much fine, 
 healthy feeling, forcible delineation of character, beauty of 
 description and strength of thought, all clothed in elegant 
 and nervous language." — Aberdeen Herald. 
 
 "Mrs. Johnstone's Tales may bf generally characterized as 
 carrying instruction with amusement. Many of them contain 
 striking pictures of virtuous poverty, and of self-denial in the 
 middle ranks of life, drawn in a piquant and pleasing style. 
 We reckon it no small recommendation of these tales, that in 
 
them the common-place virtues of every-day life obtain more 
 justice than in most novels of the day." — Dundee Advertiser. 
 
 SKETCHES OF IMPOSTURE, DECEPTION AND 
 CREDULITY. 
 
 "This is a work of no common interest and research; it 
 depicts the follies of the human mind in its various stages of 
 ignorance ; a remarkable feature of an enlightened and scien- 
 tific age is the disappearance of many, if not most of the mon- 
 strous beliefs and modes of deception under which our race 
 has lived and been imposed upon. It is a work not merely 
 for the gratification of the present moment, but one which 
 will be read by successive generations with interest and in- 
 struction." — Smith's Weekly Volume. 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF SERVICE IN CHINA. 
 
 BY CAPTAIN ARTHUR CUNYNGHA5IE. 
 
 Price 25 Cents. 
 " Interspersed throughout are capital anecdotes, comic sto- 
 ries, and amusing personal adventures; but there is also a 
 good deal of political information communicated carelessly, as 
 if the writer was not anxious to show that he has thought 
 much of the subject. All, therefore, who would peruse the 
 most vivid and animating account of the splendid closing 
 scenes of the Chinese war, must necessarily resort to Captain 
 Cunynghame's volumes." — Foreign Quarterly Review. 
 
iFORTOWNi COUNTRY g 
 
 ^ iPHlLAOElPHIAWi 
 
 GREAT LITERARY ENTERPRISE. 
 
 BOOKS BY MAIL! 
 
 The " Waldie" System Revived by the Original 
 Editor. 
 
 The cash system carried to its utmost limit by a reduction 
 of one half. 
 
 TEN COPIES FOR §2 50 PER ANNUM EACH ! ! 
 
 On the first of January. 1845, was commenced at Philadel- 
 phia the publication of SMITH'S WEEKLY VOLUME, a 
 Select Circulating Library for town and country, on the plan 
 of VValdie's, at a greatly reduced price, of a large size andjnew 
 type. — Conducted by the original, and for the first seven years, 
 the sole editor of Waldie's Library, and published by his son. 
 
 The plan embraces the publication of the newest and best 
 
8 
 
 books in the various departments of Travels, Voyages, Talepi 
 Sketches, Biography and Memoirs; in short, the whole range 
 of polite literature, and including translations made expressly 
 for the work. 
 
 TERMS. 
 
 " The Weekly VolUxME, or Select Circulating Libra- 
 ry," is printed on a double super-royal sheet, sixteen pages 
 quarto, three columns on each, and mailed weekly with great 
 care, so as to carry with perfect safety to the most distant 
 post office, 
 
 %* Journal of Belles Lettres. By thus increasing the 
 size of the paper, we occupy, without decreasing the quantity 
 of book-matter, the two first pages as a Journal of Belles 
 Lettres, formerly printed as a cover. 
 
 The whole will be printed and finished with the same care 
 and accuracy as book work. The price is four dollars for fifty- 
 two numbers of sixteen quarto pages each. 
 
 A club of three for ten dollars, or ^3 33 each. 
 
 A club of five for fifteen dollars, or S3 each. 
 
 A club often for twenty-five dollars, or $2 50 each. 
 
 But in no case can the publication be forwarded, unless the 
 order is accompanied with the remittance. 
 
 A specimen number will be forwarded, without charge, to 
 all who request it, postage paid. 
 
 LLOYD P. SMITH, Publisher. 
 
 No. 19 St. James' Street, running from 6th to 7th, above 
 Market, and directly in the rear of St. James's Church. 
 
 Philadelphia, 1845. 
 
 RD t 9 ^ 
 

ST. AUGUSTINE ^ 
 FLA. ^ 
 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 III Hi 1111:11 1 
 
 iiiiiiiiiii 
 
 0017 185 1749