F 868 .Y6 U4 Copy 1 Class, r oG A Book ^saG H /^ REPORTS OF THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR '■I RELATIVE TO YOSEMITE PAR] 18 9 3. ! WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTINa OFFICE. 1893. R E P O R T S OF THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR RELATIVE TO YOSEMITE PARK. 18 9 3. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1893. m J31 ;• 1 3 1908 DEPART]VrENT OF THE INTERIOR, Washinfjton, December 29^ 1892. Sir : The Senate adopted September 22, 1890, the following resolu- tion : Be-Holved, That the Secretary of the Interior be directed to carefully inquire and report to the Senate at his e'ailiest convenience whether the lands granted to the State of California on certain conditions by act of Congress approved June 30, 1864, have been spoliated or otherwise diverted in whole or in part from the public use contemplated by the grant, and if so what steps if any, in his judgment, are neces- sary and proper to be taken in order that the necessary public use may be subserved and further siJoliation prevented. In response there was submitted the following- statement and sugges- tions : The act approved June 30, 1864, grants to the State of California the gorge of the Yosemite Valley at the head waters of the Merced River of an estimated length of 15 miles and a width of 1 mile back from the main edge of the precipice on each side of the valley and also "the tracts embracing what is known as the Mariposa Big Tree Grove iiot to exceed the area of 4 sections to be taken in legal subdivisions of one-fourth section each." The boundaries of these tracts were to be establivshed by the United States sur- veyor-general of California at the ex])ense of that State. The grant was 'Svith the stipulations that the State shall accei)t this grant upon the express conditions that the ]>remises shall beheld for public use. resort, and recreation, shall be inalienable for all time; but leases not exceeding ten years may be granted for portions of said premises; all incomes derived from leases of privileges to lie expended in the prep- aration and improvement or the property or the roads leading thereto. The premises managed by the governor of the State with eight other commissioners to be appointed by him, and who shall serve without compensation." The act of Congress, with all the attending provisions and trusts, was accepted by the State of California by legislative act, approved April 2, 1866. Commissioners were appointed, the reservation surveyed, and possession taken. They have e-rer since been held and managed ]>y that State, by the board of commissioners provided for by the grant and through guardians subject to the control of said 1)oard. There was no appropriation made to enable the Secretary to adeqiiately prosecute the inquiry now demanded, and it has therefore been pursued upon correspondence merely, aiid the statements made and upon which this report is founded are for the most part unsworn to. Upon the passage of the resolution immediate steps were taken to obtain all the accessible information concerning the condition and management of the reservation named. Letters of inquiry were addressed to all persons of good repute who were deemed to have had opportunities for informing themselves in the matter. Re- ports and printed statements bearing upon the subject, as well as photographs of various localities in the valley, were looked up, and a special agent was sent to make investigation. In this wav a very large amount of the evidence of the nature mentioned has been obtained, the original letters and papers are Hied in the De- partment. A careful abstract is herewith presented. It will be found that while o]»inious of witnesses differ as to management and treatment, there is very general agreement as to facts. While some have been more observant and clear-sighted than others, there is almo.st no contradiction between statements. Thefollowing points are by such statements affirmed. First, as to the Yosemite proper. , . , o r^i • There has oeen a very general and indiscriminate destruction ot timber, bome of this has been done to obtain" l)uilding, bridge, and fencing material and fuel. Some, as it would seem, to prenare lands for the plow or pasture ; some with the notion of opening up views froin certain points; a great deal from carelessness or neglect, and some, "it would almost appear, from mere wantonness. A former guardian ot the park (Mr. Hutchings), writing in 1888, states that " within three years not less than 5,000 trees have been cut down." 4 YOSEMITE PARK. Second. A large portiou of tlie valley, from oue-liaif to four-fifths, has been fenced iu and put to grass or grain. The fencing is largely done Avith barbed wire and the inclosures are so joined together and strung lougi'tudiually along the valley as to contine travel to narrow limits between the fences and the slope from the "moun- tains There seems to l)e very littleroom leftfor paths for pedestrians in the valley. Third. The valley has been pastured to such an extent as to destroy a great many rare plants which formerly grew there luxuriantly. Formerly there were over four' hun- dred species of plants new to botany in the Valley. Nearly all of these have been destroyed, if not exterminated, by herding and the jilow. A few it is hoped may yet be saved. • Fourth. The nianagement seems to have fallen into the han<1s of a monopoly. Neither in the hotel accoramodatrons, transportation accommodations, nor the furnishing of jtrovcnder for the animals of tourists does any competition ap^iear to be ])ermitti'd. The main road uii the middli^ of the valley, from which the overhanging wall scenery can best be viewed, has been closed, and about the only ways, or room for ways, left, are the main carriage paths across the talus and up the spurs, so rough and precipitous that very i'ew ])edestriaus caj-e to climb them. So much of the valley as has not been inclosed seems to b».' pastured by stock owned by the stable and transitortation men, to such an extent that there is no grazing left for the animals of the tourist or visitor. Second. As to that part of the Yosemite grant outside the A-alley. This seeuis to have been abandoned to sheepherders and their flocks. The rare grasses and herbage have been eaten to the bare dirt. The magnilicent flora that added so greatly to the enjoyment of this scenery has been destroyed. Fires were allowed to be kindled evei-ywhere, and, escaping- Avhere there was substance left, have reached the trees and shrubs and consumed them. It also appears that large sequoias and other evergreens have been cut down by trespassers to get the seeds for exportation to foreign lands. Third. The big tree grove has been much damaged by firej but whether this has been the result of mismanagement may be (iiiestion^d. There is no doubt, however, that a high regard for the trust reposed in the board of managers would have in- duced them to have prevented l)y all means this destruction of these wonderful trees. These acts of spoliation and trespass have been permitted for a number of years and seem to have become a part of the settled policy of the management. The re])ort of the commissioners, for 1885 to 1886.'urges that all the available land on the floor of the valley be put to cultivation of grass for hay. to the amount of 1,000 acres, for the '• augmentation of the revenues of the State."'' There are 1,141.56 acres on the fl»or of the valley. So it will be seen that the i)olicy of the commis- sioners is to divert at least nine-tenths of the valley from use as a jiublic resort to a source of State revenue, There])ort for 1887-88 recommends "seeding the valley from wall to wall with useful grasses."' The estimates of what has already been fenced and put to grass and grain run from 600 to 800 acres. Had it not been intended that this beautiful valley should be kept in its primitive beauty, then it should have been given for homesteads. But it is stated that the hotels, the stage transportation, and the livery animals are run by a combination, whose purpose it is to make money only. The State of California accepted the grant on the express condition that it should be held for public use. resort, and recreation. At that tiui" the Yosemitr was already famous as the most wonderful natural scenery on earth. There can l)e no doubt tha^ it was the purpose of Congress that all its features should lie perpetuated in their original unmarred beauty and attractiveness, and the best means of attaining this end, it was deemed, was to put it under the guardianship of the State. It is not seen that other sufficient reason could have presented itself for the action taken. While the State was authorized to lease portions of it for terms not exceeding ten years, applying the proceeds to improvements beneficial to the reservation, evidently the intent of the act was and is that only so much, and such portions of the valley, should be leased as should be found necessary for appro]>riate buildings for the com- fortable entertainment of tourists and other visitors, and that with as little marring of the natural features of the valley as practicable. It is submitted that it was not contemplated that the valley should be cleared up for a stock farm or stock ranch from which an improvement fund should be realized, and which, Avlnm realized, should be expended to make more fences and farms. Rents were to be merely an incident to the main purpose of preserving the jtark. If this be the true construction the statute has been misinter})reted, and too nar- row a meaning has been given it. For the purpose, as it would seem, of realizing the largest possible revenue obtain- able from the valley there has, it is claimed, been permitted a largely indiscriminate devastation of the magnificent forest growth and luxuriant grasses, that many years alone can repair. VOSEMITE PARK. 5 If ,1 matter of such grave importance as tliat ought to be investigated, the Senate shouhl not have expected of the Secretary (without au a]tpropriation and with no power to send for persons or pa])ers or to administer oaths) anything more than such an inquiry as has here been attemjjted, or anything beyomi au expression of opinion whetlier the subject is worthy of further cxaminaTion. With this umhn'standing, it is sul)mitted that from these communications it apjiears tliat there has been great and unnecessary spcdiatiou of the Yosemite Park, and the park has been largely diverted from the public use contemplated by the grant; and it is rccominended that an appropriate committee, with adecprate means and power, be authe made concerning the Yosemite Park, by resolution of date Septem- ber 22, 1890. session of C.'ongress on its asseml)ling. Attest: • • . Ansox G. McCook, Secretary. In my annual re]>0! t for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1S91, trans- mitted to the lirst session of the Fifty-second Congress, I called the at- tention of Congress to the matter in the following language: Under a resolution of the .Senate, during the last ye.ar, au examination was made by the Department as to the nianagement of the Yosemite Valley, now under the control of the State of California. This resolution directed that careful inquiry and report should be made whether the lauds granted to the State of California, on cer- tain conditions, by au act of Congress api)roveil .him- 3, l.'^Gi, had been spoliated or otherwise diverted from the public use contemplated by the grant. This grant included the gorge of the Yosemite Valley, at the head waters of the Merced Kiver, of au estimated length of 1.5 miles and a width of 1 mile back from the main edge of the prei'ijiice on each side of the valley, and also the tract embracing ■w^liat is known as the ^Mariposa Big Tree Grove. The grant was made with the stipulations that '• the State shall accept this grant upon the express conditions that the ]iremises shall be held for public use, resort, and recreation; shall be inalienable for all time; but leases not exceeding ten years may be granted for ])ortions of said ])remises. all incomes derived from leases or privileges to be expended in the preservation and improvement of the property on the roads leading thereto." These trusts, with the accompanying provisions and condi- tions, were accei)ted by California, through an act of the legislatui'e A]iril 2, 18t>6. The lands have ever since been held and managed by the State of California, through a board of commissioners. There was no appropriation made by means of which the departmental examination could be thoroughly conducted, and reliance had to be placed entirely upon private stateuieuts obtained by corres]iondence. A report, however, was made, and trans- mitted to the Senate January 31), 1891. In tliis it wassaid in suVistauce that reports and statements, obtained from persons of good repute, and whose op])ortuuities for having correct information make their testimony reliable, seem to establish, as to the Yosemite Valley, tliat there has been a very great destruction of timber there; some of which has been used for buildings, fences, and fuel; some removed simply to clear the lauds for cultivation, and a great deal laid waste through carelessness and wantonness; that more than half of the valley has been fenced with barbed-wire fencing and cultivated with grass and grain : that these inclosiires have coufiued travel to narrow limits between the fences and the slope of the mountains, and have left but little room for paths for pedes- trians up this valley; that a great many rare plants which were new to bcjtany have been destroyed, if not exterminated, by plowing and i>asturiug tlie valley; th.it the management has fallen into the hands of a mortatiou men, almost to the exclusion of the animals of the tourists or visitors; that these acts (jf spoliation and trespass have been ])er- mitted for a number of years, and seem to have become a part of the settled policy of the nianagement. 6 YOSEMITE PARK. The reports of the commissiouers of California from 1885 to 1888 recommend th© cnltivatiou and seeding of 1,000 acres of the floor of the valley with grass and hay, and the seeding of the " valley from wall to wall with nseful grasses "' for the " aug- mentation of the revenue of the State." There are 1,141.56 acres on the floor of the valley, and it is estimated that from 600 to 800 acres have already been fenced and put to grass and grain. Had it not been intended to preserve this beautiful valley in its primitive beauty, then it should have been given for homesteads. When the State of California ac- cejtted the grant the Yosemite was already famous for its most wonderful natural scenery. The purpose of Congress undoubtedly was to place it under the guardian- ship of the State as the best means to secure the ])erpetuation ot its natural beauty and attractiveness. The authority conferred by the grant to lease certain itortions for terms not exceeding ten years, and to apply the proceeds to bencticial improve- ments, was evidently intended to apply only to such jjortions as should be necessary for appropriate buildings for the entertainment of tourists and visitors, without marring the natural features of the valley. It was not contemplated that the valley should be turned into a farm or stock ranch. The rents were to be merely an inci- dent to the main purpose of preserving the park. If this be the true construction, the statute has been misinterpreted by the management. By resolution of the Sen- ate this inquiry was to be continued, but still no appropriations being made, and cor- respondence having been exhausted upon the subject, but little has been added to the facts heretofore obtained. The matters presented are of such great importance that they call for further ex- amination than can be made without an appropriation, and it is recommended that a committee with adequate means and power be authorized to make further investi- gation and report. With the report were sent many photographs and copies of the original letters. In my annual report for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1892, I quoted as follows from a report made October 3, 1892, by Special Land Inspec- tor Maj. Eugene F. Weigel, whom I had had detailed to make investi- gation concerning the condition of affairs in Yosemite Valley: A good deal of uuderbrushiug had been done near the Stoneman House in Yosem- ite Valley and arounl the stables of the Trausportatiou Company by direction of the State commissioners, under the supervision of Galen Clark, the guardian. Mr. Clark was formerly one of the commissioners, and although 78 years old is still active, and ajipears to be an educated, honorable man. He took me around to the places where the clearing had been done for the purjtose of lessening the danger of fires, and which, it is true, at tines partook of the nature of a mutilation of natiu-al beauty. Guardian Clark was free to confess that he Avas no scientiflc Iandsca]ier. and tliat he carried out the orders of the board to the best of his ability. He said that he had frequently importuned the commissioners to emi)loy some expert lan(lsc?j25e eugineer to thoroughly study the valley and make a systematic plan of iniiirovemeuts that might be carried out in the course of several years, but all to no avail. It is cer- tainly true that the young ]dnes and underbrush are too thick in ]ilaces and need a judicious thinning out, and the dead and decaying trees should all be removed. To my inquiry. Mr. Clark replied that it was not designed to carry this work on any further down the valley, and that it certainly was not intended to clear any more ground for meadows or planting. More drives and pedestrian walks are needed, and the roads in the valley should be sprinkled. Many of the old, unsightly buildings should be removed, iind when- ever a new building of any kind is needed it should in outward appearance conform to the requirements of park surroundings. For the kind of accommodations furnished the charges of the hotels are rather high, and the chai*ge6 for stabling, teaming, or hire of vehicles or saddle animals in the park are beyond all reason. To judge by the utterances of individuals here, as well as in Merced, Mariposa, and Fresno counties, a large majority of the people would be in favor of letting the government of the Y'osemite Valley revert to the National Government. I have been informed by diftereut p:lrties that an efl"ort will be made in the next assembly to ac- complish this object. To the ordinary traveler the toll-roads in and outside of the park are very annoying, aiul the free road to be built up to the valley, from Merced this winter, will be hailed with delight, besides possessing the advantage of enabling the tourist to visit the valley all the year round. It will reach Yosemite Valley on easy grades via Mariposa, and attain no high altitudes, so that it can be kept open all winter. YOSEMITE PAEK. < YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK. Besides acquiring all the toll-roads within the limits of the Yosemite National Park, the National Government should endeavor to secure by purchase the rights and claims of all private individuals within the boundaries of the park (except that portion in the southwest corner which you have recommended to be released), but especially all timber or agricultural claims. It is terribly demoralizing to the vis- itors of this national park to pass through a tract of land 12 miles within the limits of the park, between Wawona anermitted and no cutting or trimming of groves or trees, no attemi)t at the arti- ficial. Its natural features should remain intact. Great carelessness is manifested bv the management in the matter of fire. Thoughtless tourists build cami) fires and ignite stumps and old logs without thought of probable results. Firebrands are often thrown from the precipices for the amusement of those below, and just prior to my arrival a large area betM'een Yosemite Falls and Indian Canon was devastated by this carelessness. b YOSEMITE PARK. lu my opinion the iState of CaliforniM should be asked to relinquish this trust and that the General Govtjniment resume control of the valley, and then place the valley and the Yosemite Xational Park under the rules anil regulations now governing the Yeiidwstoue National Park, and not have this dual control, or a wheel within a wheel. I am convinced, from careful observation and inquiry, that the people of California would approve this course, as they do not care to be taxed for improvements and reap no advantage that would not attain under the control of the General Govern- ment. * I have to suggest that tlie tacts herein set out- may be considered in connection with the evidence and photographs transmitted to the Senate in my report on January 30, 1891. It seems to be incoutestably shown that under the State control the Yosemite Valley has been man- aged with an eye single to i»rofit and speculation and not in the line of preserving the scenic and botanic wonders of the place, for the admira- tion and benefit of the people of the nation and the world, for the present and future generations; and I earnestly advise that some adequate legislation be enacted to preserve what little yet remains of the original flora of the valley. As the Yosemite National Park, established by act of Congress approved October 1, 1890, entirely s-urrounds the valley now in charge of the State of California, it would seem the most natural and feasible plan to have the valley reconveyed to the United States so it may be under the same management with the surrounding region. I have deemed that compliance with the spirit of the resolutions of the Senate makes it proper that I submit the additional evidence ob- tained and these fui'ther suggestions, in connection with the tacts here- tofore furnished. I also deem it my duty in this connection to call the attention of Congress to tlie subject of toll roads in the Yosemite National Park, which has been investigated by John S. Stidger, special land agent, detailed by me for that purpose. As represented by the report of Mr. Stidger, there are four toll roads, built under State authority and owned by i)rivate individuals or corporations, leading into the National Park, three of which find their termini in the Yosemite Valley. The accom- panying topographical map of the valley shows the points of entrance of these roads. The more northerly is the Big Oak Flat road, 33 miles long, 20 miles of which bes in the National Park. The toll on this road is about 34 cents per person per mile. The estimated cost was $-16,050. The Coulterville road, 37 miles long, enters by the way of the Merced Eiver Valley. Twenty-three miles of this road lies in the National Park. The toll is about 3 cents per person per mile. The estimated cost is $85,000. The Wawona road, 05 miles long, with 25 miles in the park, enters from the southwest, and the tolls are about 2 cents per person per mile. Estimated cost, 175,000. That portion of tliese roads in the Yosemite Valley is now owned by the State of California. A fourth road, the Tioga, 56 miles in length, runs clear across the park north of the valley for a distance of 48 miles. The estimated cost is $02,000, and the tolls about 3i cents per pei\son per mile. Mr. Stidger thinks these tolls reasonable, and advises that the United States should become the owner of the portions of these toll roads within the park. On the 19th' of Julj', 1892, an act of Congress was approved granting a right of way in the county of Mariposa for a free wagon road or turn- pike, from the southwestern corner of the National Park to the western boundary of the Yosemite Valley. Very respectfully, John W. NoBLft, The Pr:^sident of the Senate. Secretary. YOSEMITE PARK. 9 San Francisco, Cal., November 15, Sir: As directed by your letter to Special Agent A. G. Speer, dated February 18, 1892, and your letters to me dated March 8, 1892, and September 26, 1892, I have made au investigation of all matters suggested by your instructions, and have the hom)r herewith to submit my report and the accompanying papers. There are four toll roads leading into Yosemite National Park. One enters the park via Big Oak Flat, known and incorporated as '• The Dig Oak Flat Turnpike Eoad Company." It is 33 uiilcs in length and 20 miles of tliis road lies between the western boundary of the park and the western boundary of the Yosemite Valley or State grant, that is 20 miles within the Yosemite National Park. A report from the officers and managers of this road shows the cost of this road to have been $4.5,650, and I am of the opinion that this sum was required. It is sub- stantially built and in excellent repair, the bridges permanent, with safe approaches, and the walls on lower sides high enough to protect i)a8senger8 in vehicles from danger of disaster. The tolls on this road are fixed annually by the board of supervisors of Tuolumne County, Cal., and no change has been made since 1876. The following are the rates : Each person in buggy, stage, or wagon ^\l^^ Horse and rider nOO Each pack animal 37^ Loose horses and cattle (each) 10 Sheep, goats, or hogs (each) 05 Foot passengers 25 Each vehicle (freight) drawn by one animal 1. 00 Additional animal 50 For a complete history of this road, including abstract of title, right of franchise' rates of toll, and cost of construction, see papers iiled with and made part of this report an^l marked Exhibit A. The second road is known as Tioga road and is incorjjorated as the " Great Sierra "Wagon Koad Company." This road commences near the line between the Towu- 8hi])s 1 and 2 south, range 19 east, kce])ing within the said tier of townships until it reaches the south-center of Township 1 north, range 24 east, passing out of the park on the cast .side of said township. It is 56 miles in length and about 48 miles are within the Yosemite Natiohal Park. This road was originally intended to reach the Tioga mining district on the east side of the park. It is well built, but the mines not being worked at this time, one or two breaks have occurred and have not been repaired this season. Travel still passes over it. This road is reached l)y a trail leading out of Yosemite Valley. The cost of construction of this road is reported at $62,000, and from the rugged country through which it passes and the heavy cuts and hlls lam of the opinion that the amount is not overstated. The tolls are tixed annually by the boards of supervisors of Tuolumne and Mono counties, through which it pas.'jes, and the following are the past and present rates : Freight team with two horses $5. 00 Each additional horse l.oO Empty wagons half rates. Passenger teams, each horse 2. 50 Footmen 1-00 Horse and rider 2. 00 Pack animal ^'n Loose horses and cattle (each) ^0 Sheep, goats, and hogs (each) lo A full and complete history of this road, its right of franchise, articles of incor- poration, and rates of toll accompany this report and are marked Exhibit B. The third road is known as the •' Wawona " and is incorporated under the title ot the " Yosemite Stage and Turnpike Company." This company maintains and keeps in repair various roads and branches. It commences at Raymond, a station on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and extends to the Yosemite Valley, a distance of 65 miles. About 20 or 25 miles of this road is in the Yosemite National Park, and a branch of this road extends to the Mari])osa grove of big trees. It also has numerous trails leading to scenic portions of the i>ark. This is the principally traveled route to Y'osemite Valley. It is in good condition, has good bridges, and is built tor coiiitort and safety. It is equi])ped with good stages and horses, and has carried nearly ten thousand'passengers the vear without accident worthy of mention. The company claims to have expended $75,000 in construction and repairs, and 1 have no doubt' this is a reasonable estimate. 10 YOSEMITE PARK. It is authorized to charge the following tolls by the board of supervisors of Mari- posa County: Passenger teams, per passenger $1. 00 Freight teams, per animal 1.00 Horse and rider 1. 00 Animals packed, per animal 75 Animals loose, per animal 25 Cattle loose, per head 25 Foot passengers, each 25 Sheep, goats, and hogs, per head 10 A full and complete history of this road, the right of purchase, articles of incor- poration, and rates of toll, as submitted by the company, is herewith filed and made part of this report and marked Exhibit C. The fourth is known as the Coulterville road, and is incorporated under the name of the "Coulterville and Yosemite Turnpike Company." It commences at Coulter- ville on the west side of the National Park. A total of 37 miles has been built, 23 miles of which are within the boundary of Yosemite National Park. The sum of $85,000 is t^e estimated amount used in the construction and keeping up repairs, and the estimated cost of the 23 miles within the Park is $65,000. There is heavy stone exca- vating and stone walls, on lower side, built on this road, and this appears to be a fair estimate of the amount used in its construction. The board of supervisors for Mariposa County haA^e fixed the tolls for 1892 as follows : Passenger teams, per passenger $1. 00 Horse and rider 1. 00 Freight teams loaded, per animal 1. 00 Freight teams emiity, per animal , 50 Animals packed, each .' 75 Animals loose, per animal 37^ Sheep and hogs, each 10 From Bower Cave to Crane Flat: Passenger teams, j^er passenger 50 Horse and rider 50 f Freight teams loaded, per animal 50 Freight teams empty, per animal 25 Animals packed, each 37-^ Animals loose, each 20 Sheep and hogs 10 Annexed and made a part of this report will be found a history, certified copy of the articles of incorporation, right of franchise, and rates of toll, marked Exhibit D. It will thus be seen that all the roads and trails within the limits of the Yosemite National grant were built by private individuals or incorporated road companies. All the trails within the grant, as well as all the extensions of the roads'uamed, ex- cept the extension of the Big Oak Flat and Yosemite road Avere built by permission and under the authority of the State commissioners, appointed by the governor under the act of Congress approved .Tune 30, 1864, to manage the Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Big Tree Grove. The State, although it accepted the grant from Congress by act of the legislature apjiroved Ai)ril 2, 1866, made no appropriations for building roads and trails to or upon the premises comprised in the grant for the accommoda- tion of tourists visiting the big trees and the wonderful rock and water scenery of the Yosemite Valley. These roads and trails being absolutely necessary to the visiting aiid enjoyment of this scenery, the Commissioners permitted tbe road companies to build them, and in consideration of these being built allowed the parties building them to collect tolls on the trails and on parts of the roads within the grant, as a consideration for their construction. The Commissioners had an agreement with said companies that all of said roads and trails within the grant would be purchased for the State of Cali- fornia whenever the State legislature shoulw appropriate the money for the commis- sioners to make these purchases. The State legislature made such appropriations, and all these roads and trails within the grant are now the property of the State and free for public use. It is my opinion that California acted wisely in ijurchas- ing all roads and trails with'u the State grant, and this act of the State legislature might properly be followed by the United States by the purchase and making free all roads and trails within the boundaries of the Yosemite National Park. YOSEMITE PARK. 11 HOTELS. There are two hotels in Yosemite Valley, or State grant. One is known as the "Stoneman," and was built under the supervision of the State commissioners after the grant was accepted. It is a commodious and comfortable hostelry and is owned by J. J. Cook. Its table is well supplied and its charges, $4 per day, appear reasona- ble when we consider the short season it can run and the great distance all its sup- plies must be hauled. The " Bernard" was built prior to the act of Congress. Its charges are tixed at $3 per day. It is clean and comfortable. The " Washburne House," near the southern boundary of the park, but outside, is a commodious and comfortable summer resort; charges, per day, $4. It is from this point (Wawoua) that tourists leave the main traveled road to reach the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, distant 8 miles. Although not within the limits of your letter authorizing this investigation I can not but deem it proper to give my impressions in reference to the State of Califor- nia's control of its trust, as conferred by act of Congress approved June 30, 1864. Speculation, traffic, and gain are the dominating features of the management. The " floor " of the valley presents the appearance of a poorly managed cattle ranch. About 380 acres are fenced with barbed wire, post and rail, picket, Iwrarrl and brush, and the mountain sides being iised to Cf)mplete the iuclosure. These inclosures are used for hay meadows, pastures for horses and mules, cattle corrals, hogpen, and dairy pur- poses. The remainder of the tloor is the camping ground of visitors, and when I was there in August presented much the appearanceof a deserted cavalry camp that had been poorly policed during occupancy. If this is permitted a few seasons longer the "floor" will be despoiled of all its natural beauty and its flora and fern jirowth will only live in tlie memory of the •' oldest inhabitants " and the scenic effect in the valley greatly marred. Some camping ground should be designated and.facilities afforded to those who go in private conveyances to s^iend their vacation amid these magniticent and inspiring surroundings. Speculation in hay and all necessities, including guides and livery, is the one source of universal complaint among tourists. There is no competition allKwed, and no limit ])laced on parties in control. In the language of many that I have had communication with : " We were taken into the valley for $50 and then robbed by extortionate jirices." This ought to be remedied. The State of California makes appropriations for use in the valley, Init the money is injudiciously apidied. It is used in destroying the natural by trimming up groves, making and enlarging meadows and corrals, cutting trees tliat are in the way, and using them for cordwood. These so-called " imjtroveiuents" are destroying the natural beauty of the "floor" of the valley, and the attention of the State should be called to this failure to properly administer its trust. There should be no fencing permit- ted and no cutting or trimming of groves or trees; no attempt at the artiflcial. Its natural features should remain intact. Great carelessness is manifested by the management in the matter of fire. Thoughtless tourists build canipflres and ignite stumps and old logs witliout thonglit of ])robal)le results. Firebrands are often thrown from the precipices for the amuse- ment of those below, and just prior to my arrival a large area between Yosemite Falls and Indian Canon was devasted by this carelessness. In my opinion the State of California shoiild be asked to relinquish this trust and the General Government resume control of the valley and then ]>lace the valley and the Yosemite ISlational Park under the rules and regulations now governing the Yellowstone National Park, and not have this dual control, or a wheel within a wheel. I am convinceriations for roads and to attord protection, and the money is being expended for the doubh> jiuri)ose of giving ample opportunity for tourists to examine the magniticent projiortions of this immense forest of sequoias, about five hundred in number, and to make these roads subserve the purpose of "breaks" against the too numerous forest flres that have marreo their mighty trunks in the past. The fallen branches, needles, and cones, the deposit of years, are being removed from about them, and every precau- tion is taken to protect them from calamity. California and the General Government should be im]>ressed with the fact that if destroyed the age shown in history of the great nations would not be sufficient to reproduce them. 12 YOSEMITE PARK. Where the ground has been cleared of the dc'bris thousaudvS of young sequoias liave sprung 11]), and it would be a popular and thoughtful act of some Congressman with a desire to perpetuate his name to introduce a bill to traus])lant these young sequoias into groves and ])rotect them from fire. Not one that I examined was free from the marks of fire at tlie base. Six or eight thf)usand years might determine the extreme possibilities of their growtli under favorable conditions. If the distinguished chair- man of the Senate Committee on Forestry would seize his opportunity and introduce such a bill no "granite shaft nor gilded dome" would keej) his memory so green as the "'Paddock Sequoia Gi'ove." AVhile California is comi)lying with the terms of its trust in this instance, it still impresses me that the General Government should own, control, and bear the ex- jtenses of its care and preservation. *> BOUNDARY. The Yosemite National Park, established by act of Congress approved October 1, 1890, comi^rises in all forty-two townshijis of laud, lying in Tuolumne, Mariposa, Fresno, and Mono counties, Cal., and extending from the summits of the Sierra Nevadas westerly, an average breadth of seven townships, or 42 miles, to the divid- ing line between ranges 18 and 19 east. Mount Diablo Meridian, and from north to south a breadth of six townships, or 36 miles, from Township 2 north to Township 4 south, inclusive, and covers an area of about 1,.500 square miles, or nearly 100,000 acres of laud. Three im])ortaut streams have their sources and many of their tributary l>ranches in the Sierra Nevadas, within the limits of this park, the Tuolumne, Merced, and San Joaquin rivers. The two former of these streams flow westerly through the north- ern and middle regions of the i)ark, and down the western slopes of the Sierras and their foothills, into the San Joaquin Valley and empty into the San Joaquin River The more northerly sources of the. San Joaquin River are in the Siei'ras and in the southeastern i)art of the park, this stream flowing southwesterly through the Sierra slopes and foothills and into the Joaquin Valley in Fresno County, and thence northwesterly, through the counties of Merced, Stanislaus, San Joaquin, and Contra Costa, to its junction with the Sacramento River, and these counties depend on the ■San .Toaquin and tributaries for its waters. All the present horticultural and agricultural uses of this vast foothill and valley territory, as well as all its future possibilities in these respects, make it necessary to properly conserve all the waters in all these streams, from their sources to their out- lets, for the benefits which are only possible in the highest degree to this vast semi- arid territory from irrigation. Nearly all the territory in the park is more or less heavily covered with forest — the varieties of timber growth comprising mainly tamarack, hemlock, fir, spruce, cedar, pine, oak. and sequoias, and nowhere in the world has nature grown her for- ests on a grander or more wonderful scale than in the Sierra Nevadas, and within the limits of this park. The appellation Oif/aiitea has been given by scientists to this variety sequoias growing here because of the euormcius size to which it attains, 2.50 feet in height and 15 to 30 feet in diameter, being an ordinary size for a fully developed sequoia. The growth of the pines, s])ruces, cedars, and firs, though not so large as the se(iuoias, is in the same grand projiortions, and anywhere else in the world all these Avctuld be regarded as gigantic tree growths. As nearly all the mountain territory watered by these streams and covered by these forests is the projierty of the nation, and has been dedicated to public park purposes, it certainly is the part of wisdom for the Government to retain this valu- able domain, and to exemi)lify and develo]) U])on it the problems of water and forest preservation nninagement, so important to tlie future welfare and prosperity, not only of the region comprised in the park, and the territory lying below and to the west of it, through which the streams flow, but also to all other forest territory which is yet the }>roperty of the nation, and has yet to be submitted to the same systems of water and forest management. In this view of the present and proajjective importance .and great economic value of the territory comprised in the Yosemite National Park, I earnestly advise the Government, as well in its legislative as in its executive branches, to very carefully •consider any proposition to modify or restrict the boundaries of the park, and that it only consent to such restriction after being satisfied that these great economic nses of the park, which are for all time and for great numbers of people, will not be damaged by it. The Merced grove of big trees (Sequoia giganfea) is situated inT.2 S., R. 19 E.. and the Tuolumne grove of big trees is in T. 2 S., R. 20 E., both of them l>eing within the limits of the park. These big trees are the most beautiful and symmetrical, as well as the grandest specimens of forest growth knoAvn in the world. The presence of these big trees in the township named, certainly suggests, and, I might say, makes YOSEMITE PARK. 13 imperative, the retention of both these townships in the park, to the end that, liy no possibility, shall these two groves of Sequoia (jiguntea be injured or destroyed by forest tires or other vandalism. They need the jtrotection of at least a township of territory about them, and this to be under the watchful care of the (ioveruraent, so as to surely save them from the danger of injury and destruction incident to all unprotected mountain forest growths. From its western boundary easterly to the summits of the Sierras the park is well watered by lakes and streams which are tributary to the Tuolumne, and the whole region, particularly along the water courses, is timbered and interspersed with lakes and grassy meadows. This timber growth and the water in these tributary streams of the Tuolumne need to be protected and preserved for the use of the pres- ent and coming generations, and its great benefits should not be yielded up to a few ranchmen located on or near its borders or to the imaginary wealth of a few mining claims long since abandoned. • The same may be said of the eastern regions of the park. For the scenic beauty and grandeur of the high Sierras, as exemplified by such bold and lofty granite peaks as Mounts Conuero, Warren, Dana, Gibbs, Lyell, and Ritter, with the living glaciers they sustain, as well as for the streams that head in them, these granite summits ought to be, and forever remain, the eastern boundaries of the park. And in view of the possible early passage by Congress of the •' Paddock forestry bill,"' which proposes to reserve all the forest regions of the nation, and providing for the protection and administration of these forests and the sale of the timber under established rules, for the use of the people, I thiuk it both wise and proper to recom- mend that all the boundaries of the Yosemite National Park, with all its wonderful mountains and forest and water and rock scenery, remain as established by act of Congress a]>proved October 1, 1R90. until such time as, after the yjassage and under the administration of the " Paddock bill,'' such eliminations, and only such, as after careful consideration may be found to be proper, be then made from this park. Respectfullv submitted. John S. Stidger, Special Ageiit General Lund Office. The Secretary of the Interior, WuMngton, D. C.