Pass- fr IH 7 •5*. Book . B^n-^*. / h | Y Ml 1 \ In? Dowijjiiot.A.11. ADelf "W.T.Ito Sc-nlj 1 Ocf-eij /? 7- oo^tctt ^/cf.t/r t .J^%L, to whom I was under such obliga- tions, gave me several letters of recommen- dation, and I set out for Scotland. But this being rather a long trip, I took, in my way, the University of Cambridge, where I stop- ped ; for which place my benefactress, Miss Metcalfe, sent me a letter of introduc- tion. This powerful letter opened me the door of the whole University ; and if it is allowed to me to give a little sketch, I will try to describe some particulars which I re- collect of it. There are twelve colleges, and four halls. The Senate- House is a most beautiful edifice. Trinity College, with its library, is also a grand and noble structure. In the library of Corpus Christi College is a wonderful collection of manuscripts of the 208 ancient writers, which was preserved at the destruction of the monasteries, as the master of the college informed me. This surprising University is not so wonderful for its archi- tectural splendour, as for its antiquity and depth of science. The town of Cambridge cannot be com- pared to Oxford, where the colleges give such advantage, and so beautify the place. As far as I recollect, Cambridge is not equal to it in that respect. But the affability of the gownsmen, and the politeness of the inhabi- tants, attract the attention of the stranger ; and it is with regret he parts from them. What made me leave Cambridge sooner than I had intended, was this : — I found that Bury St. Edmund's was not far off, where the worthy family of Metcalfe had a residence ; and I considered this the best opportunity I could have to perform my duty, and pay my respects to them. Consequently, the day after my concert, which was very brilliant, I 209 left Cambridge ; and arrived in the evening at Bury St. Edmund's, and found that the whole of this amiable family was at their country seat, to the best of my recollection, about a mile from the town. They received me with an affability, which I found even much more gratifying, than the highest de- gree of their bounty. They condescended to procure me a comfortable lodging in the town ; and, to prove the liberal sentiments of their mind, paid all expences during my stay. I esteem it not the smallest favour, that Miss Margaret Metcalfe asked me many questions concerning the situation of my pre- sent affairs, dictated not by curiosity, but purely by the goodness of her mind, which took an intire interest in my welfare. I con- cealed nothing, but took the liberty to in- form her of all particulars, and of the amiable Mrs. B having opened a subscription at Norwich. At hearing this last part of my affairs re- 210 ported, my benefactress was much gratified ; and, soon after, honoured me with an addi- tional proof of her liberality, by raising a sum of money, and sending it to Mrs. B , at Norwich. I found my soul deeply impressed with admiration of her kindness, conferred in so noble a way ; and my heart was ready to cry out with joy, when I reflected how care- fully my welfare was watched over by my protectress. For, as the, sun peeps through the gloomy sky, to ripen the little mustard seed ; so did the brightness of her eye, beam- ing with generosity, shine on my humble merits, and disperse the dark cloud of my adversity. During my stay at Bury St. Ed- mund's, this excellent family honoured me so far, as to interest themselves in patronising my concert ; and gave me an immediate proof of their eagerness to serve me, by presiding at my benefit. The company was brilliant and numerous : I cannot compare it to any thing but a London audience. But this was 211 not surprising, as all the town and its envi- rons waited for an opportunity to oblige them ; so far had they gained the affection of their friends, by a goodness which is deserv- ing every blessing. After this profitable concert, which enabled me to pay all expences, more than what were incurred on my journey to Scotland, I in a few days took leave of my benefactors, and set out for Edinburgh ; but, as Bury St. Ed- mund's was rather out of my road, I was obliged to cross Cambridgeshire and Lincoln- shire, and to come to York, where I found the direct road to Edinburgh. On my arrival in the Scottish metropolis, I paid my respects to Lord Dumfries ; and, having delivered a letter of recommendation, I was made truly happy by the most gracious and cordial reception. This illustrious house of Dumfries^ comprehending the Countess of Loudon, at present Lady Moira, deigned im- mediately to introduce me among the circle 212 of their first friends ; where I had the honour to become acquainted with the amiable Colonel Hope and his worthy brother, who seemed to take the most lively interest and the greatest pleasure, in all that related to me. The Co- lonel conferred on me the honour of his pa- tronage ; and, finding that a concert would be more proper than any thing that could be done, he took the management of it entirely into his own hands, and conducted the business for my welfare. To give his own endeavours additional strength, he moved the hearts of his friends, among whom were their Graces the Duke and Duchess of Buccleugh, the Countess of Loudon, and, through her in- fluence, Lord Moira, Commander in Chief in Scotland ; therefore, it was impossible for the concert to fail under such noble auspices. In fact, the Colonel's powerful influence and exertions procured me a numerous and bril- liant assembly. For this generous conduct of Colonel Hope, I am bound to entertain 213 the most lively sentiments of gratitude. This concert terminated with a ball ; which pro- cured me two advantages — a considerable sum of money, and the opportunity of form- ing an acquaintance with the most respectable persons of that city. I passed some weeks in Edinburgh most pleasantly, and was so fortunate as to attract the particular atten- tion of that generous and amiable people. My sentiments by no means accord with those of the great Dr. Johnson, from whom, I am afraid, the Scottish nation did not meet with an equal return, for the kindness he received from their generous hearts ; for I have been told, he wrote a Journey, in which, thinking it would be beneath him to acknow- ledge some obligations due to them, he em- ployed his pen in a description of their man- ner of living, education, and Universities, so low and so offensive, as to disoblige the whole nation. But, for my part, I at first gave little credit to this report, concerning a man of such e e 214 knowledge, as I expected more liberal senti- ments from the high abilities, and strength of sense and reason, which he was known to possess. Therefore, I could not help taking his part, and I defended his cause with some degree of enthusiasm ; at which time, a gen- tleman, in whom I found a very strenuous opponent, and who was a bitter enemy of Dr. Johnson, obliged me to give up my de- fence ; and proved to me, that the Doctor, with all his scholastic learning, was a good deal similar to highly polished steel at Shef- field : for when this beautiful work is divested of its polish, we find only a rough and unsightly appearance. At hearing this, I was put to silence, and was soon brought to acknowledge my error; finding Scotland equal to any nation, both in the richness of its soil, and beauty of its situation : their manner of living is splendid and luxurious ; and the candour, probity, frankness, and affability, of this truly amiable and benevolent nation, would render a desert delightful. 215 My mind differs in sentiment from this great writer, Dr. Johnson ; and how can I disguise the truth ! for I feel myself full of gratitude, when I reflect on the gracious re- ception I met with. If I am asked, (as in- deed I expect to be,) how I could boldly ven- ture to compare the richness of the soil of Scotland to tha^t of other countries, I could easily reply — that they who are best ac- quainted with Scotland, very well know that that nation never begs assistance of her neighbours, to support her wants, either in agriculture or in science, as she has both in the greatest perfection. Their Universities, however ungenerously described, have 5 in fact, Professors of the greatest knowledge. At the University of Edinburgh, Dr. Hope is particularly eminent for his depth in science. It must be understood, too, that the Scotch nation is as rich in agriculture as in science, having very experienced farmers. The south and west parts of Scotland a- 216 bound in minerals, and are extremely fertile, and the ground is well cultivated ; but I ob- served, not only this part of the country, but in general all the kingdom, to be well pro- vided with corn. I include the islands of Shetland, the Orknies, and the Hebrides ; the soil of which abundantly furnishes the inhabitants with corn, and also with vege- tables, and other productions of the garden. There are likewise marie, slate, and quarries of marble and of freestone, together with tin, lead, and silver mines. The lakes and rivulets abound with excellent fish. Gentlemen of property may live there with elegance, hav- ing good things in profusion ; and the com- mon people, very comfortably. The build- ings in these islands are much superior to what Dr. Johnson has described them to be ; and the manners of the inhabitants, civil and hospitable ; — but that is their national cha- racter. I recollect, with pleasure, my first introduction to Scottish society, at Colonel 217 Hope's ; where I found elegant apartments, adorned with beautiful women, polite in their manners, and lively in their conversation. The natural bloom of their complexions, their majestic air, and graceful behaviour, must strike every foreigner with admiration : in short, in my journey through Scotland and its islands, I found every thing to my satis- faction. I was now bound for France ; and I re- solved to stay at some town, with a view to defray the expences of so long and tedious a journey. I succeeded pretty well at York, Bath, and some other places upon my road ; where I received both pleasure and profit, as I had done before, in several parts of this kingdom. I landed at Boulogne early in the spring, and succeeded in forming an acquaintance with some amateurs in music ; who, among many favours, procured me a concert, and very politely performed themselves, to save 218 my expences. I then set out for Lisle, in Flanders, where I formed an acquaintance with the manager of the playhouse, who offered me his assistance, lent me his stage, and provided performers for my concert \ but he wished to go half and half in the expences and profits. I made no objection, but imme- diately agreed to his proposal. Meantime, I could not have thought this gentleman so learned and deep in his profession as I found him to be : indeed, so admirable a proficient was he in the science of arithmetic, particularly in division, that I could not find any thing for my share of this benefit, but a cypher. There- fore, after this experience from my master, whom I found rather dark in his method of teaching the art of reckoning money, I made my stay short. It was just after the com- mencement of the revolution, and that ex- traordinary event engrossed the attention of all : I thought, therefore, I might succeed better in going to Paris. 219 I arrived in the capital, in June the same year, and had once more the pleasure to see many noblemen, who knew me when I was there before, and who now renewed their civi- lities. The Marquis D'Amazaga, interested himself in my behalf, I then attempted a concert, which, by no means, answered my expectation, though seconded by the Duchess of Orleans, no less eminent for her benevo- lence than for her rank ; and on mature re- flection, I clearly perceived, that all Paris, the ladies not excepted, were absorbed in contemplating their new form of constitu- tion and that this grand object banished every other idea. I had little to expect from the accustomed urbanity of the French no- bility ; and my purse, being very low since the twist given it by Dertreval, must have been totally exhausted, had I remained much longer there. I found that I was swimming against the stream, and therefore resolved to go to Cher- 220 burg, which is the nearest French port to Guernsey, where I wished to be ; and having made a bargain dear enough with the master of a smack, I went on board the 24th of March ; but, meeting with bad weather, I did not arrive till the 29th at night. Though many in my place would enumerate the imminent dangers they had experienced in this voyage of fifty-four miles, I shall content myself with just saying, I was not sorry when I got on shore. No other loss was sustained, than that of a fowl, which rinding itself too closely pent up in the hold, jumped over board, to be more at liberty. I had no room to lie down in this vessel, though only three passengers were on board: however, I was never sea-sick. Our vessel was worked by the Captain, without a sailor. It was called the Little St. John ; but the inhabitants of Guernsey gave it a more proper name, and called it a hencoop. When I arrived on the island, I delivered 221 my letters of recommendation, addressed to some of the principal inhabitants. I remain- ed there two months, and gave a concert. The number of handsome ladies who attended it, made a beautiful appearance in the room. This charming island is twenty-one miles in circumference, and the country pleasant and fruitful ; for, in so small a compass, they make yearly two hundred and fifty barrels of cyder. The air is good, the water excel- lent, and trade flourishing. There was a citadel, besides other forts, with batteries of cannon, surrounding this island, though well fortified by nature. The Governor kindly gave me an invita- tion on St. George's day, to meet all the officers of the garrison, who were invited to celebrate the King's birth-day. He shewed me every attention, and the rest of the gen- tlemen were by no means deficient. The fa- vourable reception I met with from the in- habitants of Guernsey, and the pains they Ff took to serve me, particularly those to whom I was recommended, claim my sincere and most respectful acknowledgments ; and I esteem myself much indebted to them. CHAP. IX. Return to England — Visit to Hereford and Warwick —Digression — Singular demand at Coventry — Bir- mingham — Imposition of an innkeeper — Visit to Mr. Boulton's manufactory at Soho — Eulogy on Freemasonry — Arrival at Derby ; inundation there —Voyage from Liverpool to Dublin — Noble con- duct of the captain of the packet — Serious reflec- tions — Melancholy history of a black cat — Visit to Cork ; successful concert there — The butcher's lady and the marrotv bone — Excursion to Kinsale ; pro- ductive and brilliant concert — Voyage to Cork, and turbulence of the sea — Impression made upon me by a lady's nose. I sailed from Guernsey in a larger vessel than that which conveyed me to the island ; and, on my return to England, visited some towns where I had not been before, especially Hereford, where I stopped some time, and 224 gave a concert. It was attended by the most distinguished families of the town and neigh- bourhood, by whom I was loaded with kind- ness ; and, in a more peculiar manner, by the worthy family of Mr. Cam. I must say, Herefordshire, in my opinion, is one of the most fertile counties in England, and cele- brated for its cyder. From thence I set out to Coventry, passing through Warwick. The last-mentioned town I found a curious place : I therefore stopped one day to examine it. I beheld a town, situated upon a rock, hav- ing the appearance of great antiquity. It may be approached by four ways cut through the rock. All those roads meet four streets, and I found myself conducted to the center of the town ; the walls and houses of which have cellars in the rock, as dry as possible, and surprisingly neat. The town of Warwick makes me recollect, that, in my return from Little Tartary, I took the road nearest adjoining my native coun- try of Kiow, and passed round a mountain in the deserts of Podolia, under which I found some curious grottos. A little further on, a gentleman stopped me, and politely request- ed me to take my dinner with him. I ac- cepted his obliging invitation with pleasure, and he kindly conducted me to his house, through enchanting groves, and cut rocks, which, throughout, were extraordinarily bril- liant, displaying a number of different co- lours, of the nature of crystallized mines. I inquired, if metals were found there. He . answered me, that those rocks produced pre- cious- stones, such as crystal, topaz, jasper, opal, onyx, sapphire, ruby, and spar. Next, I found a variety of fruit trees plant- ed like a forest, which led to a beautiful cot- tage, with spacious gardens adjoining to it. At the top of these was a monstrous rock, with a spring of good water, which formed a gentle rivulet, and fell into the river Dnies- ter, with a noise that caused sensations 226 which would be pleasing to such as like soli- tude ; or to writers of novels, fond of purling streams. On the other side of the rock was a grand cave, dignified with a most magni- ficent temple, having an altar richly adorned with wonderful and beautiful stones ; and round the sides and top of the temple were spar, crystal, and stones of various kinds ; so that, at the time of divine service, when it was illuminated, the reflection of the light upon those glittering stones, gave an air of magnificent splendour, which, I confess, filled my heart with amazement ; finding, in such a place, so noble a house of God. My host said to me, " If those who are warped in their reason from the truth of facts, could attend solemn service in this temple, they would believe what they have rejected, and ripen in faith ; and not let their ideas wander in clouds, like the Mahometans and some other nations, unfit to be called Chris- tians, who pick up their system of morals, 227 partly from the Pagan philosophers, and partly from our Holy Book, the best of which they reject, and adopt that which is most consistent with their own loose principles. The monarchs and nobles of those unfortu- nate people, take example from the pride and the mean sentiments of Holofernes, who confirmed the errors of his master, saying, that there was no other God but Nabuchodo- nosor." Pursuing the religious subject into which he had entered, I replied in the following manner : " It has, in general, been observed, that there is much presumption in those whom the Supreme Being has allowed to be above their fellow creatures. We frequently see them blinded by ambition, which is next to folly : but we ought to admire, and should take example from, such great men as David, and his son Solomon ; both of whom walked humbly in the sight of God, and were blessed with victory, riches, and wisdom. There 228 are, however, too many like Nabuchodono- sor, who adopt their own imaginary gods and fantastic gospel ; who have reason to blush at hearing the name of David, because the Lord was with him, and he glorified his Maker." With these words, I bid him farewell. To return from my digression : No sooner had I arrived in the city of Coventry, than a messenger from the Mayor appeared, with a demand for me to pay five pounds, for grant- ing permission to give a concert. By this time I found my pocket rather begin to be low, and sent the following answer by the Mayor's servant: "To-morrow, atone o'clock, you may come, and I will comply with your request." I immediately ordered a post chaise, to be#ready at five o'clock next morning, and set out for Birmingham, eighteen miles off, where the worshipful Mayor might find rae at the hour appointed. On my arrival at Birmingham, not having a lodging provided, 1 was obliged to drive to 229 the inn. Mr. Sharp, the innkeeper, being a man in the constant practice of receiving strangers, seemed to me to use no ceremony with his newly-arrived friends, but kindly made his appearance in my room, with a bill of his excellent ragouts for dinner ; but, to my great disappointment, it was the time of Lent, and I made choice only of a bread pudding. This raised his curiosity, and he asked me, if I were under the Holy Father. " Yes," said I to him. He replied, " I am of the sect of John Wesley ;" and at the same time promised, that next day I should have a different kind of pudding. I had now provided myself with lodgings, before I left his house, where I had been rive days. I re- ceived my bill, in which I found five pud- dings charged five pounds. I must say, his bill stupified me 5 but, at last, I recovered from my astonishment, and asked him, if the new gospel of this Apostle Wesley furnished him with this, lucrative inspiration ; because, in g g 230 our Sacred Books, we are prohibited from making such an attack on the pockets of our fellow-creatures. But he would not hear what I said, nor accept of any other terms ; so I was obliged to put my money upon the table, and very gladly took my leave of this holy gentleman. At my new lodgings, a few days after, I fortunately met with a brother Mason, Mr. Bisset, a Scotch gentleman, of genuine polite- ness, and an open heart. He was secretary and treasurer to the Debating Society, and, through the interest of this worthy man, I was made a member of the same, and honour- ed with a silver medal, with which Mr. Bad- does, the president, was at that time the only gentleman decorated. Some time after this, I was invited to Mr. Boulton's, of Soho, not far from the town, where I spent an agree- able day in his company ; during which time he was pleased to inform me, that Birming- ham was originally a village, belonging to 231 a gentleman of the same name, whose monu- ment I saw next day, in the old church. He gave me a still further account of this extraordinary village, the extension and im- provement of which were solely owing to the industry of a man, who introduced the manufacture of gilt buttons. Such a specu- lation certainly deserves our admiration ; but I found Mr. Boulton's machines for coining money, a still more wonderful invention, each of which is capable of striking off one hundred pieces per minute. Birmingham has the appearance of the first town in Europe, for the invention of every sort of mechanics. I observed, that the inhabi- tants have no other amusement, but that of employing their whole ingenuity in contriving new machinery. The population is very nu- merous and opulent. I tried to give a con- cert, thinking I might succeed ; but it turned out like a frosty night upon the blossom of a tree. So finding this was a bad climate to 232 ripen my fruit, I prepared to depart.. 4 But the next day, I had an invitation to go to Henley, to attend the establishment and con- secration of a new Free-Masons' Lodge. The particulars of this I cannot give. Meantime, I may be allowed to say, that there is no- thing in the world can be compared to the sublime law of Masonry. However its mem- bers may differ in their religious professions, there is no dispute, no jealousy among them : all are tolerated, and every thing governed with the greatest harmony and love, no less beneficial to inward virtue, than to external order. Upon such a basis of reason stands the noble law of Free-Masonry. Further infor- mation on this subject it would be improper to give ; and those who pretend to publish our concerns, must not be relied on, for cer- tainly those authors never professed Masonry. Writers have thought fit to exercise their wit upon this subject, as they have been in the constant practice of doing upon all others, 233 of which we have many proofs. By this means, we find most profound philosophers falling into errors ; having merely written a heap of conjectures, and obstinately endea- voured to establish their own obscure ideas. As an example, we may take Epicurus's system of the origin of man, and of all other animals, sprung, as he asserts, from the vigo- rous seeds of the earth. It is a pity, that such a man had so gloomy a prospect of the future state of the soul ; but, to conclude the matter in a word, Epicurus should have been sent to the Divine Author of the world, and the Writer on Masonry, to the Master of the Lodge. Then would they have been able to give a perfect account of the facts : other- wise, we can find nothing in their works that can be relied on ; for, all truth being con- cealed from them, both authors must remain full of perplexity and confusion. I now took my road to Derby, and, on my arrival, procured lodgings on the south side of the town, situated near the little rivulet called Martin Brook. So far as I can recol- lect, the situation was pleasant, and the house commodious, having a shop furnished with many good things, luxurious enough to re- gale the greatest duke ; therefore, I deter- mined to treat myself according to my cir- cumstances. Next day, just at the beginning of day-break, my illusion of a feast was turn- ed to a fast. I heard the cry of the watch- men, and found the whole town in alarm and confusion, caused by the unexpected appear- ance of the deceitful Martin Brook, from whose angry mouth gushed forth torrents of water, which filled whole houses. You may guess the surprise I was thrown into by this deluge, when I found our shop transformed into a lake, in the middle of which was the master in a boat, fishing out isinglass, tea, and coffee. Upon my asking for sugar, they answered me, there were no remains of it to be found. So completely did Martin Brook de- 235 feat us, that every thing was destroyed in the shop ; and we remained in sorrow. I was obliged to be a partner in the business, and lost jubilee. But the sensations of hun- ger prevailing over those of fear, I requested some milk and bread, which was contrived to be tyed upon a long stick, and conveyed in a boat to the window, by the street. By this means, I obtained a humble breakfast, for which I was very thankful to the donor. After such a victory over the town of Der- by, obtained by Martin Brook, we must ad- mire his spirit ; but, at the same time, lament his ambition in passing over his limits. I was a witness, from my own window, of the great number of precious things which he swept off in his retreat, and of the piteous lamentations of the inhabitants ; and, as I found that it would not repay my time to remain in this distressed place, I determined not to wait for a second visit of Martin Brook. 230 I now undertook a journey to Ireland, flying like a bird that looks where he can build his nest ; and, passing through Che- shire to Lancashire, I reached Liverpool, where I made a bargain with the Captain of a ship, and next day sailed for Dublin. But, to avoid a traveller's story, which often sup- plies the want of truth, I shall merely relate this simple fact. The Captain, having rather an unpleasant enemy in a contrary wind, and March assisting with his waves, prevented our speedy landing. I saw, with a transport of joy, the village called Black Rock, at a little distance from Dublin. But here is a most dreadful bar, over which we were ob- liged to pass : we beheld a vessel, that went before us, dashed on that rock, and a woman on the deck, with an infant in her arms, cry- ing to the Lord for mercy. Her voice was heard: our Captain resisted the greatest fury of the sea, approached the vessel, and saved her and the rest of the people j but the vessel 237 sunk to the bottom, and we, in our ship, re- mained merely in a state of hope, which I called a poor chance. After this scene of melancholy was over, and we were approaching the harbour, the Captain, good soul, asked us if we were all well, and recovered from our fear. " Fear !" said I, " how could you think we could be af- fected with fear, when our minds were occu- pied with your good action ?" He appear- ed to understand my bad English ; for what I said seemed to make some impression upon him, as he expressed, with the greatest zeal, his wish to serve me upon any occasion what- ever, and shewed himself worthy the name of a true Englishman, by the proof he gave me of the sincerity of his professions. At our landing, he conducted me to the Royal Ma- rine Hotel, and strictly charged the land- lord to pay every attention to my person. The day following, he engaged handsome lodgings near the College Green, and settled ii h 238 every thing, for fear the people should im- pose on me ; and took me there in such a cheerful manner, as announced the liberal sentiments of his mind. This proceeding reminded me of his humane action above- mentioned ; which, no doubt, was heroic in its way, and convinced me, that he deserved to be considered on an equality with those great warriors, who, as soon as they have humbled their enemies, become fathers to their people. In short, Captain Fair wood, after having set- tled my little affairs, bade me farewell, and so disappeared. Now, that I was left to my solitary re- flections on the pilgrimage in which I was engaged, so severely did I feel the disap- pointments I had experienced, that I could not help thinking, it was well that Providence had blessed me with such a firm determina- tion to act like an upright man ; as the world, by the small estimation in which honesty is often held, afforded so strong an inducement 239 to travellers, like myself, to better their cir- cumstances, by acting like a knave. In the midst of these conflicting thoughts and mournful reflections, a black cat made his appearance, by entering my room. This in- terruption to my reverie, gave me a new turn of thinking. I could not help admiring the confidence of this creature, in putting his trust in me. I next thought, it must be the principle of his practice to pursue good living, having no other ambition in his nature. On this account, I had no objection to ap- point him Cure of my parish, and by so doing, he became my constant visitor. About this time, a lady of rank honoured me with a visit, who immediately perceived the black cat sitting on the sofa. She strongly expres- sed her admiration of his natural beauty ; and, touching him with a hand as white as snow, made him proudly stretch himself with joy. In this position, he appeared two feet long, and proportionably fat, as he enjoyed 240 good living : in fact, she was delighted with him beyond measure, and promised to pro- cure me a number of customers to see him. She kept her word, and in a few days I found my room rather too small, to contain so nu- merous a company. Amongst this crowd of amateurs, I met with a gentleman, who was closely inquisitive about the place of his birth ; and, although I possessed no information on this point, I yet conferred on him the honour of being a na- tive of Prussia, born at Berlin, and son of the favourite cat of Frederick the Great. I found this rod and artificial fly catch fish from the deepest rivers : his reputation soon spread, he derived an additional lustre from his noble origin, and rapidly became a fa- vourite of the whole town. This favourable circumstance suggested to me a new project, and I wished to seize the moment of this enthusiasm and rapture of the public, and give him some lessons in 241 tricks ; for, said I, when ] consider the na- tural sharpness of such animals, and their docility when young, I may expect that, with such advantages, he will become as cele- brated as the learned pig, so much admired in England. But, however well digested this plan might be, I could not arrive at such a degree of perfection in it, as to procure any amelioration of my situation ; for my pupil was found to be of a voracious disposi- tion, which these animals have not the saga- city to perceive, must, one day or other, bring their lives to a tragic conclusion. With a treacherous and ambitious design of improv- ing his manner of living, he slyly insinuated himself into the room where some canary birds were kept, and committed murder, with such a cruel mind and premeditated barbarity, that it was almost impossible to find any remains of them. The cat, being found guilty of this heinous crime, without respect to the merciful principles of whole- 242 some law, had sentence passed on him, by his own master, to be hanged ; and which, without delay, was put in execution. After this unexpected event, it was not of any use for me to remain longer where I was. I, therefore, took my route through the whole of Ireland, beginning with Cork, which is reckoned the second city in that kingdom, for its splendour, opulence, and trade. Small vessels only can approach the city, which stands seven miles up the river Lee. Ac- cording to my recollection, this is the chief port of merchants in Ireland ; and, in truth, there is more beef, tallow, and butter, ship- ped from hence, than from all the other ports of the kingdom put together. On my arrival, I found lodgings, most ad- vantageously situated for my purpose, upon the parade, which is a public walk, where are to be seen thousands of the most beauti- ful women ; a number of whom inspire re- spect and love, equal to that with which 243 Diotime, who taught Socrates the principles of nature, inspired that philosopher. What- ever may be said, this is indisputably true. Their appearance in society forms a sort of heaven on earth. By them I was first noticed ; and their example and kindness to me, were followed by the noble spirit of the citizens, who shewed their liberal mind and concern for my welfare. Among other instances of their bounty, the gentlemen, who were ama- teurs in music, graciously offered their assis- tance at my concert ; and, to prove the ex- tent of their good dispositions, performed themselves on that night. This act of gene- rosity, which I did not expect, rendered my benefit brilliant and numerous. Amongst the company was observed a lady, that excited the curiosity of the public to know who she was, by the elegance of her dress, and the sweetness of her conversation, together with the quickness of her repartee ; but, unsuc- cessful in their attempt at a discovery, they 244 were obliged to remain satisfied with obscure conjectures, and the late hour of the night forced them to depart. This lady, of whom I speak, bade me fare- well, with a promise to send me a marrow bone. I confess, I understood English imper- fectly at that time, and, therefore, I thought she said Mirabeau, not the celebrated* one who died during my residence at Paris, but his brother ; consequently I gave orders to my servant, should he call, not to admit him. At dinner-time, I heard a loud rap at the hall door, and was eagerly anxious to know who it was ; expecting Mirabeau's visit. I opened the door, leading to the staircase, from whence I heard mentioned the name of marrow bone ; and, still listening, I heard my servant coming up with another person ; in consequence of which, I slipt off to my room, cursing his imprudence, for not obeying the orders of his master. I crept to the closet, peeping through the key-hole, and perceiv- 245 ing a soup dish upon the table, and the master of the house laughing, probably at my misunderstanding, I came out of my hiding-place. On my appearance, he could not keep his countenance, but said, " There is your Frenchman put into a soup dish." " What is it ?" I asked." ". They are bones with marrow in them," he replied. " Who is the lady that sent them, and what is her name?" " Mrs. MXLennel," he answered, " and she is a butcher's wife." Finding my mistake cleared up with a good dinner, " Sit down," said I, " and take some marrow-bone with me ;" but he politely refused, telling me, he was obliged to go immediately with a wig, and dress a lady for a masked ball. When I considered his occupation, in a moment it came into my mind, that this man will no doubt discharge the duties of his profession as a hairdresser j he will inform his customers what has passed in his house, and I musj: expect some fun at my expence. So it hap- i i 246 pened ; for the next day the Worshipful the Mayor sent me a polite invitation to dinner. In his card, he gave a witty turn to the inci- dent of the marrow-bone. This circumstance amused the public ; and they carried on the joke in a very agreeable manner, probably with a view to afford me a good table : so that marrow-bone became my constant food 5 and, if I had continued amongst those liberal and generous people, I should not have been surprised, if I had become as fat as marrow. But I was reluctantly obliged to change my place, in compliance with the circumstances of my situation ; so I made an excursion to Kinsale, a place beautifully situated at the mouth of the river Bandon, strongly fortified, the town neat and handsomely built, well supplied with provisions, but rather inferior to Cork in point of marrow-bones. I had the honour to be introduced to Lord and Lady Kinsale, whose influence procured me a nu- merous and select party of their friends to 247 my concert, which terminated with a most brilliant ball. After a long stay in this opulent city, the inhabitants of which I found amiable and polite, I set out for Youghall, where I met with a friendly and warm reception from the inhabitants. I had an overflowing concert of the best society, and their attention to me I must ever remember with gratitude. But an unexpected business called me to Cork ; and, luckily for me, it was not more than twenty miles distant for me to return. At this time, Captain Somerville of the Navy, intending to sail, kindly proposed to me to take a voyage with him, saying, " There is no difference whether you go by sea or by land, as we shall reach Cork by dinner-time. So I accepted his polite offer, and we sailed ; but we had no sooner quitted the harbour, than we per- ceived a grumbling sea, and lowering sky, announcing a dirge to be sung with a chorus. For my part, I had often met with those 248 rough receptions, and did not think any thing of it ; but I really felt for the situation of the ladies, who are sent to us as a blessing, and I was uneasy on their account. After all the painful reflections that tor- mented my mind, considering that the great- est Monarch, had he been on board, would have been treated with the same contempt, I determined to retire to my bed, where I thought to be alone ; but the Captain had taken the greatest part of it to himself, and left only a small share to me. However, I settled myself as well as I could, being ob- liged to keep him behind me. But, to my still greater discomfort, we were both of us soon driven from our quarters ; for the fury of the angry sea besieged us with its highest waves, and gave such a blow to the vessel, that the Captain, tumbling me out of bed on the floor, fell upon me ; so that I should certainly have been smothered, had not ano- ther no less violent motion of the vessel de- 249 livered me from him. I now thought myself secure from any accident, not perceiving I was so near the ladies ; but the vessel at that moment gave such a jump, that the Captain, who had just risen, was thrown down a second time, and in his fall knocked down some of the ladies that were next him ; one of whom tumb- ling upon me, gave me, with her big nose, a monstrous black eye. I must confess, I did not expect such a donation, which I was obliged to keep for some time, having no chance of be- ing soon at Cork, to procure a plaster for it. We now found ourselves on the coast of Giant's Causeway, and afterwards at the Mull of Cantyre in Scotland, where the wind chang- ed, and drove us to Port Patrick. Meantime, our joy was restored, by the expectation of seeing Cork ; and, in the interval of a calm, I proposed to give a feast to my fellow-travel- lers, by preparing them coffee. As soon as it was ready, we sat down round the table, in great spirits, singing " Rule Britannia." I 250 asked, who that lady " Britannia" was ? The Captain replied, " She is the favourite of the whole nation ;?* and the lady next me ob- served, " This great lady is fond of a little flattery like ourselves." During the time of my inquiry, and while our cups were filled with coffee, Neptune, envious of our joy* be- gan groaning j and the insolent waves gave answer to our song, forcing the vessel to bow down in a most humiliating manner, and throwing us to the ground, with the table and its contents upon our heads. To close this wonderful voyage of twelve days, I must be allowed to declare, that it was chief- ly owing to the imprudence of the Captain, who had it in his power to land safe at Do- naghadee, a short distance from Port Patrick ; but, boldly venturing to go to Cork, he ex- posed his life, with that of many of his friends. Fortunately, however, the wind conducted us close to Waterford, and, with the help of ropes tied to boats, we were brought safe into 251 port. I shall only observe, with regard to this distress, that any man, however great his courage may be, would, when in the midst of danger, ardently wish to be out of it ; and probably would have no hesitation in de- claring his wishes, did not his lofty mind direct him to conceal that fear, which the natural love of life so powerfully excites. I was not sorry to set my feet upon the ground ; and, leaving the Captain in his swimming coach, I took a more solid one, and arrived safe at Cork, where they all thought I was drowned. However, the peo- ple no sooner perceived me coming to the town, than their hearts overflowed with joy : they surrounded the coach, not with mere curiosity, as I saw by their countenance, but with the rapture of real friendship, and with the greatest care brought me to the hotel* Indeed, I put my trust in them, as in their principles I found they truly deserved the name of good Irish. CHAP. X. Visit to the lake of Killarney — Kind reception at Limerick — Friendly conduct of the Quakers at Clonmell — Methodist Preacher deserted by his flock ■ — Journey to Tuam and Galway ; lucrative benefits at these places — -Successful expedient to settle a dis- pute with a landlord^ or " A new way to pay old debts" — Journey to Sligo — Doctrine of Rousseau — Sudden transition from the meanest to the most com- fortable and splendid accommodations ; and kind liberality of an amiable family. After settling my affairs at Cork, as I had an opportunity to visit the lake of Killarney, I set out immediately. In fact, I was not disappointed, for I saw more than I expect- ed. This lake is entirely surrounded with mountains, rocks, and precipices, which are covered with wood. There is on the top, 253 enclosed by mountains, a small lake, called the Devil's Punch Bowl ; the superfluous water of which, falling through a chasm into the middle of the lake, forms one of the most beautiful cascades: the echo of which, a- mongst the hills, is equally wonderful. This lake, or rather phenomenon of nature, really deserves to be seen. I found there a great num- ber of every description of people ; amongst many others, was a gentleman, who politely approached me, and offered me his hand, for fear any accident should befal me. When we were going away, a lady, with a loud voice, said, " Take care, that that little gen- tleman does not fall.'* I turned round, and seeing a beautiful and lovely nymph, replied, " Madam, I fall already." This answer pro- cured me the friendship of both : they were much delighted, and I found afterwards that the lady was his wife. He instantly called her, and they both proposed to me to visit Limerick, with a promise to procure me a Kk 25$ good concert. Her eloquent speech, joined with a graceful and persuasive manner, and his Irish promise, which was more to be de- pended upon than that of many countries that would confirm it with an oath, prevailed with me. I made no resistance j but soon accepted their warm invitation, with a pro- mise to be there on the day appointed. Before I drove into the town, this amiable couple met me, and conducted me to a lodg- ing, and would not allow me that day to take my dinner at home, but insisted on my going to dine with them. I considered it would be improper to refuse their kind invitation, and therefore complied with their request. I spent a most agreeable day, being introduced to many of their friends. I was surprised to see so large a party ; but soon found the reason of it, which was, by an ingenious contrivance, to procure me a numerous concert. By this means, my benefit succeeded wonderfully ; for there was such a crowded room, that many 255 were obliged to return home ; and, to prove the great influence of Mr. and Mrs. Brown, all those persons the next day sent their ticket-money, with interest. So that, not only the handsome figure of Mrs. Brown, but also the beauty of her mind, must be ad- mired. I take this opportunity, with sincere emotions of gratitude, to return my humble thanks to the inhabitants of Limerick for the flattering attention they conferred upon me. But, notwithstanding the kind reception I experienced, I was obliged to quit their ami- able and interesting society, to go to Clon- mell, the chief town of the county of Tip- perary. I was mistaken in ranking Clonmell amongst the splendid towns in this kingdom^ for it appeared to me deficient in brilliant society. I found the people, by their pecu- liar mode of living, dwelling in a retreat, and as it were shut out from the. busy world. Yet I was not deprived of their society-: they were Quakers, to whom I was intro- 256 duced ; and I spent among them many a- agreeable moments. I was never acquainted with those people's principles, but learned, from their own account, that George Fox, who was born at Drayton in Leicestershire, was endowed with such an original fund of good sense, and such a flow of eloquence, that, by his abilities, he became the Patriarch of Quakerism, and dictator of their minds and consciences. But I shall not pursue my re- marks on their spiritual concerns, since their morals evidently appear humane, and salutary to the general interests of mankind. I found virtues in those quiet and sociable people, su- perior to those of any other religious sect ; and I have remarked, that you seldom find a Quaker committing a crime, the inhabitant of a gaol, or a beggar in the street, which is certainly a great deal to say in their fa- vour. Whatever, therefore, their gospel may preach, their actions must be an example. I confess, I took leave of them with regret ; so 257 much did I admire their retired manner of living. Therefore, they are never in want of society, and never looking out for new amuse- ments ; which idle minds seem continually hunting after, while, by so doing, they sow the seed of peevishness for old age. With regard to myself, they understood what sort of life I pursued, which was in the busy world, amidst a tumult of people, where every one is not master of his own ideas ; and which may be a good school to learn pa- tience in. In consequence of this, they pro- vided me letters of introduction to Ballinasloe, which I found of great service to me. Those to whom I delivered them, procured me a crowded and select concert, attended by a number of officers, who were quartered there during my stay. There was a great wool fair in this place — according to public report, the first in the kingdom ; which, from the description given of it to me, excited my curiosity to go to see 258 it. But a gentleman to whom I was recom- mended, and from- whom I received many kind attentions, opposed an obstacle to my intention, fearing such a number of people would be rather troublesome ; so he post- poned it till the next day, which was Sunday, saying, all people would be at prayers, and I could see the place at my leisure. Next morning, the gentleman, not forgetting his engagement, came and took breakfast with me, and when we were ready to set out, I heard a particular voice of a man in the street. I looked out at the window, and saw a crowd of people at my door, and, in the middle, a man with a book in his hand. At first, it appeared to me a comical business ; but, at last, I was astonished to see, that in a civilized country they should allow such cruelty, as to make game of a poor unfortu- nate creature, whom I took for a lunatic; and, if Mr. Crump had not acquainted me with the contrary, I should have remained in 259 the same idea. He told me the man was a Methodist ; and he spoke it in a sort of dis- content, as a reproach to the Church of Eng- land being defective in delivering the Gos- pel ; whence arise many errors, which furnish a variety of sects, called Dissenters. This was the information I received from Mr. Crump, who was not sparing in his objections to the National Church ; and he seemed to me, as one who had got the visionary com- plaint of Swedenborg, or his madness for the new Jerusalem. Consequently, I did not wait to hear the conclusion of his chapter, but departed from him, and took my station in the street, to listen to the Methodist preacher. But, as I happened to make my appearance when they were singing a hymn, I caused a discord in their tune, by giving a sudden turn to their inspiration. As soon as they observed me, they all crowded to the place where I was, and left their pastor, with his book in his hands, to conclude the duty 26Q by himself. It was certainly a cruel circum- stance for a shepherd to be thus forsaken by his flock ; and the last effort he made to re- cover them, was to cry out, " Brethren, my dear brethren, return to your duty, and don't follow this little red devil" (it happened I was dressed that day in a red coat) ; but this effort of his anxious mind made no impression upon them, and, the more to show their inat- tention to his doctrine, they began to make such a noise, that it put the whole town in alarm ; and the garrison flew to arms, think- ing that the enemy was approaching. At this time, the whole nation, upon the politi- cal stage, was performing a tragic scene. In consequence of which, the Colonel ordered all the streets to be well guarded by the troops ; of which, one of horse found the preacher singing a hymn, No. 306, adapted to Handel's March. The Captain hearing this, and having no idea of a hymn, stopped him with a reprimand, thinking he was singing a 261 ballad ; and though he gave a very long ex- planation, the Captain would not understand his vindication, saying, he never heard of a hymn to the tune of a inarch. At last, he de- clared he was a Methodist preacher, and begged of him to allow him to wait for his congregation who had deserted him, and gone with the red devil. The Captain, find- ing out immediately that he alluded to mey asked where I was gone. " Gone !" said he, " I suppose to the devil !" " Then you must go there after nimj* 1 replied the Captain, " and you will be sure to find your people." During this altercation, they began to hear their voices so loud, that they could dis- tinguish where they were ; and when tranquil- lity was restored, the garrison returned to the' barracks : but the Captain, anxious to give me assistance, for fear any accident should happen to me, cariie with his dragoons, and escorted me home ; when I saw the coun- tenance of the preacher pictured with angers i, V 262 But, leaving no time for his inspiration ttf work, I set out for Tuam, where I found good sociable people ; by Whom I was well received, and who were ready to render me any service in their power. I took this op- portunity, and gave a concert, to defray the expences of my journey to Galway. I was not disappointed in the idea I had conceived of their generous dispositions y for their be- nevolence inducing them to give me every facility to pursue my travels, they afforded me a most lucrative benefit. Often have I gratified my feelings with a pleasing remem- brance of their kindness, which has left an indelible impression on my mind. After having experienced so much goodness, it was with sorrow I was obliged to leave them, and find my way to Galway. This city, as far as I can remember, is seated in a bay, and most commodiously situated for trade. There is a considerable herring fishery, and I understand it is the 263 only place that has any foreign trade. It is also prettily built, and has the appearance of a flourishing city. The citizens receive strangers with great civility, — not with insig- nificant politeness, similar to a sponge full of water, which when squeezed becomes dry ; but the essence of true hospitality dwells in their hearts, and never can be eradicated from them. At my introduction to their so- ciety, how kindly did they receive me ! Their attention was paid in a manner that makes a foreigner easy, and which attracts re- spect and love. They had the penetration to see I was not a hunter after fortune, but that the manner of life which accident had forced me to adopt, was repugnant to my feelings ; so they consulted among them- selves what was best to be done; but it was decreed above, that not any thing was to be settled at this time, but that a concert was as much as I could expect, which was nu- merously attended. This brilliant assembly put me in a cheerful situation, and I remain? eel here some weeks longer. In the course of the pleasant time I spent in this amiable society, I often met General Hutchinson, whom I found a most amiable man, and his conversation interesting and agreeable. How- ever, I should not dare to trust myself op- posite to him, to converse through a cannon, as I have heard he is rather a bold gentle- man upon such occasions, and gives no time for a reply. After many agreeable moments passed in this polite city, I proposed to pay a visit to Sligo -, for, not only business called me thither, but curiosity induced me lo see this corner of the Island, as it had the reputation of having savage inhabitants in it. I therefore made preparations for my departure. On the day appointed for my setting off, my servant Noad, as usual on such occasions, went to pay the landlord, Mr. M c Dule, two pounds, which was due that week for my lodgings, and Mr. M c Dule made no objection to accept it ; but, in his memorandum book, he pretended to shew I owed him the sum of sixteen pounds, and that he had only received one half; and, moreover, that he was ready to take his oath, I had agreed to give him four pounds per week. Noad firmly opposed him, and stood to the truth, saying, he was a witness that the agreement was made for only two pounds per week ; so a warm dispute arose between them, which forced me to go down stairs to see what was the matter. I found my Irish Paddy, Noad, like an honest ser- vant, eagerly interested in his master's busi- ness. Finding, however, that his good ar- guments did not avail, he thought a good blow on the head would be more comprehen, sible, and was accordingly preparing to in- flict it; but Mr. M c Dule, threatening he would make him pay fifty pounds if he did so, stopped the intrepidity of Noad, who then told him he would not touch a perjurer. 266 This gave great offence to Mr. M c Dule, who replied with fury, that there was never a Methodist known to be a perjurer. Noad wanting to argue on this subject, which in fact he did not understand, I put a stop to the dispute, by saying, "Let his faith alone." " No, no, master," he answered, " I only wanted to knock his head, not his face." This blundering reply made me laugh, and I told him to come along with me. When I was alone, I began to think, that such a man as M c Dule could have no principle of honour, by his wanting to impose on me in this way, and that, on such an occasion, it would be very allowable, by some strata- gem or other, to avoid injury er insult ; and, at the same time, if possible, to make game of him. Consequently, I formed a project that he might quarrel with my ser- vant, which was more proper than with my- self. I instructed Noad in what manner to proceed : I gave him orders to go from home, and not to appear till late at night, and at his return, to make a loud knocking at the door, pretending to be drunk, and when let in, to ask for a candle to go to bed, which I would contrive should be refused him ; he was then to say some unpleasant thing to the landlord, as I have experienced that those creatures who have not a spark of sense, are soon put in a passion with the least trifle, having no bridle to restrain their fury, which accordingly becomes their master. "It is two to one," said I, "he will give you a blow : and in that case you may cry out, " Murder," and say, you will make a complaint to the Mayor, and make him pay forty pounds for his impru- dence." So, after this lesson given to Noad, I sent him away ; and the evening approach- ing, I went down to prepare M c Dule to meet Noad, when I found him saying his prayers. " I beg pardon," said I to him, " if I intrude upon your devotions, the pleasures arising from which, are certainly greatly preferable to, 268 and much more sublime than, any other what- ever." " You are welcome, Sir," he replied, " I am meditating on the instruction contain- ed in this Holy Book, wherein we are taught to be careful of doing nothing wrong, if we wish to save our souls." " You are right. Sir," said I, " to meditate on so important a subject ; which, I trust, will so far influence your mind as to make you detest a bad ac- tion ; and therefore I conclude you will not take an oath concerning the money in dis- pute between us." But I found his prin- ciples as dry as a stick for the fire, and that he was still determined to take his oath be- fore the Mayor. I called for Noad, though I knew he was not there. Mr. M c Dule said, " Your witness will be of no use, and he is not at home." '* He is," said I, "probably gone out to drink : many times he has done me this mischief before I left town. At Tuam he came home drunk, got a candle, went to his room, and set fire to the curtains 269 of his bed ; and if the servant girl had not perceived it, the whole house would have been in a flame, and very probably the whole neighbourhood would have shared the same fate." " My dear Sir," replied he, " for your sake and my own, I will sit up for him, and will not allow him to take a candle." "I wish you would," said I, " and to prevent any mischief, open the door yourself and we will be safe." Having so well laid my plan for putting this cat into the sack, that I was confident of success, I, therefore, wished him good night, pretending to go to bed. About the time appointed, I heard a knocking at the door, which not only raised M c Dule, but the whole street. Mr. M c Dule opening the door, beheld Noad drunk, who desired a candle to go to bed. Mr. M c Dule, as was expected, refused to give him a candle. Noad finding an opportunity, seized the candlestick, and both holding it fast, one pulled against the m m 270 other. But Noad proving the strongest, brought him to my parlour, and there took possession of both candle and candlestick ; and, without any thought of malice (I pre- sume), told him he was a great Geographer. It must be remarked, that a person in a pas- sion, as nearly as possible resembles a mad man, and seldom takes time to consider what his adversary may say j therefore M c Dule, in a flame of passion, replied, "None of my family were Geographers, but all the M c Dules were honest people." Noad, perceiving his ignorance, began to repeat the same words, to induce him to strike. He was not disap- pointed in his views ; for M c Dule approach- ing with fury, gave him a blow. Noad, pre- tending to fall to the ground, cried out, " Murder," which raised all the people that lodged in the house, who came down to pre- vent mischief. They found him with his nose apparently bleeding, which in his fall under the table he had rubbed with some red stuff 271 having the appearance of blood. Every one was against M c Dule, saying, if they had not come, Noad would have been killed. Noad, from under the table returned them thank?, and begged them to be witnesses how he was bruised, as he intended to go to the Mayor, to get forty pounds to defray the doctor's expences ; and they all promised to support him upon this occasion. Mr. M c Dule, find- ing himself in an awkward situation, be- came a little milder ; and, his insolence be- ginning to abate, he slowly rapped at my bed-room door. Pretending to be suddenly awaked, I asked, who was there. He said, " I am a friend come to beg a favour." I opened the door and asked, in what respect I could be useful to him. " I beg of you, 5 ' he said, " to set out before sun-rise, to pre- vent your servant going to the Mayor, as I have bruised his nose by accident ; therefore, allow me, Sir, to order the chaise at four o'clock in the morning." " Then," said I ? 272 " do you give up your claim to the sum you demanded of me ?" " My dear Sir," he re- plied, " there has been some, error about the money ; indeed, you do not owe me any thing." " Well, well," said I, " I forgive a fault when it is involuntary ; I only request you to give me a receipt in full for the sum I have paid, as I do not owe you any thing, and I consent to set out at any time to oblige you, as all my things are ready." In short, M c Dule went to order the chaise, Noad having only time to wash his face, and apo- logize to M c Dule for the deception he had put upon him, at his altered appearance. M c Dule found himself rather stupified, and was persuaded Noad had taken a lesson from the stage at Drury-Lane, in London. After this manner of contriving to save my money, I set out for Sligo ; but the journey was tedious and uncomfortable, it being win- ter. I recollect, the second night the driver could not find the road, for the darkness of 273 the sky, and deepness of the snow ; and mis- sing his way, we were obliged to stop at an obscure village, where the people have the reputation of being savage. We drove to a cabin, and called a man. When he appeared, I asked him, if it was convenient for him to receive us. "Yes/' said he, " with pleasure, but I have no bed, or other place than where I sleep myself, and if you will accept clean straw to lie upon, you are welcome." The darkness of the night, and storminess of the weather, induced me to accept his rustic, but hearty invitation, and completely recon- ciled me to his straw 7 bed. In his cabin, I found a dozen such creatures, left to the care of nature, who had taught them to pay every attention, unaccompanied by any empty forms, to their guests, each being employed in giving new proofs of service, and of zealous benevolence ; not having borrowed their prin- ciples from schools, and much less from Uni- versities, where we learn to disguise our pas- «74 sions and the weakness of our mind, which, notwithstanding all our care, may yet be dis- covered. But this good innocent people de- serve to be admired for their humane disposi- tions, said I to myself; — this rude state of so- ciety, which I now behold, proves to me how little advantage those gain, who wish to be above simple nature. I found in the breast of those people the true repository of happiness ; ndeed, their minds were perfectly content, thinking their cabin as comfortable as the first lord's palace, without any hazard of their being victims of slavish ambition, which often produces the worst consequences. Whilst, with these interesting thoughts in my mind, I was examining their cheerful countenances, I was interrupted by an unex- pected message from a gentleman, inviting me to take a bed at his house, and announ- cing that supper was waiting for me, and his coach ready at the door of the cabin. To be thus transported from straw, as it ri5 were by some fairy trick, to a feather bed, pro- duced a sudden change in my situation, and perhaps in my sentiments too. I took my leave of these worthy people, and proceeded to an enchanting house, the entrance to which was through a park, planted with trees on each side, and between rivulets, with an artificial water-fall, ornamented with bright lamps. In front of this beautiful mansion was a lake, upon which the light from the windows was reflected, and gave it the appearance of the enchanted temple of Apollo, in which Pagans performed the absurd ceremonies of their religion. In short, on my arrival at this de- lightful house, the charms of which were heightened by the graciousness and affability with which I was received, I thought myself in Paradise. At supper we enjoyed a very pleasant con- versation ; the whole family appeared to me entirely free from reserve. My straw bed af- forded them good materials for a joke, which 276 the young lady introduced, by declaring she was the author of my feather bed, for which she expected a reward, and begged me to give her a tune upon the guitar, knowing I performed on that instrument. It would have been a crime to refuse so obliging an invitation : I gave orders to bring it, and in the interval she got up and began to play on the piano-forte. Her taste and execution astonished me, and I found her a proficient, both in music and in painting. She admired my instrument, and was so much pleased with my music, that she requested me to set it for the piano-forte. This nattering de- mand I promised to comply with, and to send the music from Sligo, the distance not being great. After this conversation, and after spending a very pleasant evening, I was conducted to my bed-room, which, I must observe, was fitted up for a king, rather than for such a humble traveller as myself. I was treated in every 277 respect with the greatest hospitality and po- liteness. On the following morning I took leave of this amiable family, who loaded me with their kind attentions. n n CHAP. XL Return to Sligo ; relieved from the annoyance of vul- gar curiosity by the opportune frolic of a run-away pig — Loss and recovery of Miss Jansorfs ass, the advertising of which aided my concert — Arrival at Londonderry, and description of that city ,- Count de Tantene and his book — Visit to Belfast ; kind- ness of Generals Drummond and Seddon — ^Arrival at Portarlington ; advantages of equanimity and cheerfulness of disposition — Black powder and fast- ing a sovereign remedy for lowness of spirits and loss of appetite, exemplified in the case of a lady- Arrival at Armagh ; introductio?i to General and Mrs Nugent ; lucrative benefit. In my journey back to Sligo, I did not meet with any thing but bad roads ; and it was with great difficulty I got on, for the horses, striking their feet into the ice to keep themselves from falling, could not draw them 279 out again ; therefore, to prevent any accident happening to me, I was resolved to walk as well as I could ; but in the newly-fallen snow I found it a work of great labour for my feet. During this violent exercise, I perceived at some distance a man riding upon an ass, who seemed to have no less trouble in his travelling than myself j but the ass getting better over the ground than the horses with the chaise after them, he soon reached me, and delivered me a letter from his mistress, Miss Janson, with a request to send her the music abovementioned. " This request has rather come at an unfortunate time," said I to the messenger, " return home and assure your mistress, on my arrival at Sligo, it will be my first care to send it to her." But he replied, he had orders not to return without the music, and if I would allow him he would accompany me to the town, which was not far off j consequently he went before my chaise till we arrived at the place, where people began gathering more and more ; and when we appeared in the Market- Place, I remember there was a great pig fair. On this occasion, many idle people joined those who followed me, and made an immense crowd and disorder in the fair, which set at defiance all the authority of the Mayor. In this confusion, the pigs contrived to deliver themselves from their confinement, and, breaking from their prison, ran about in se- veral directions. The master of one of those rebels attempted to catch him, being afraid to lose his property ; when the terrified ani- mal, in the hurry of his flight, happening to encounter a woman selling eggs in a basket, ran between her legs, and carried her to the Mayor, at whose feet she fell down and broke her basket of eggs. This new object amused the eyes of the tumultuous spectators, and they soon disappeared from me. This was the very thing I wanted, in order to give 281 me an opportunity of driving to my lodgings, which were ready prepared for my reception. I no sooner got out of the chaise than I found some officers in my room, with whom I was acquainted. They had learnt the day of my arrival, and wanted me to dine with them j to which proposal I made no objection, but went immediately. But to return to the man and his ass : — He called upon me the next day, when I confessed I had not yet done any thing con- cerning the music, but promised, the day after he should be dispatched with it. So, to fulfil my word, on the following morning I got the music ready and delivered it to him ; when he announced to me an accident he had met with, namely* that he had lost Miss Janson's ass. He told me, he had made every enquiry after her, but in vain ; and, therefore, he begged me to put her in the newspapers, with a particular account of her natural beauties, which he gave me. So I 282 sent to the paper the advertisement, with the description, which Was a true one, for she was very handsome ; and I was fortunate enough to succeed in restoring her to the man, and without delay sent him home. Now, in speaking of the success which attended my splendid concert, I must attribute it greatly to the account in the papers of this elegant ass, which I mast declare was not my own doing, but which gave rise to so much lively conversation and inquiry on the subject, that the inhabitants wanted to be particularly acquainted with me, and gave me a general invitation to their houses, where I spent a pleasant time in their society. They sent me with a heavy purse to Londonderry, which city lies in a pleasant situation near the head of Lough Foyle : it has a very good port, into which ships of any size have a commo- dious access, and consequently a consider- able trade. According to the historical ac- count of it, it is well fortified ; but to my 283 recollection, only strong enough for those ancient warriors, who were not acquainted with the use of gunpowder : the city is well built, and the inhabitants, I can justly say, good Irish people. The gentlemen from their country seats joined with those of the city, who formed a great and respectable body in my concert room, and procured me a most fertile harvest for the winter season. During the time of my stay in this city, arrived a gentleman on his way from Scot- land, who called himself Count de la Tan- tene ; but his income appeared to me to be left behind, to support in France the title of his family, which I have no doubt is great. But, to maintain his situation, he brought with him a good portion of industry, and a small one of ingenuity, by the help of which he got introduced into the first company, where he so far succeeded as to enjoy in profusion every luxury of an epicurean life, with the benefit of a liberal subscription, for 284 publishing his remarks on his journey through Ireland and Scotland : therefore, it was ex- pected this work would have been true, and favourable in its description to both nations. But the report I had of it from Mr. Maghee, was, that all the subscribers were so dis- pleased with his book, that they put it into the flames, and made it vanish in smoke, finding it indigestible, and his account un- true. " Stop, Sir," said I to him, " and do not condemn the author ; perhaps he means to write his confession, and declare his in- famy in a manner similar to that of J. J. Rousseau." " Oh !" said he to me, " we may wait a long time, for you may be sure his materials are not yet ready for the press." *' Then," I replied, ** it will be too long for me to remain to read this new author's con- fession ; for I have heard, a long time, that Belfast is the most considerable town of this part of the kingdom for its trade, and number of inhabitants, and I apprehend it will be 285 commodious for carrying on my own affairs j" so I bid him adieu, and set out. On my arrival at Belfast, I soon found a good reception. I had the honour of meeting with General Drummond and General Sed- don, who were both engaged with the trust of the national security. It has always been remarked of great men, that they never re- ject any thing proposed to them, as beneath their notice, where they perceive the motives to be good. On the contrary, they take the opportunity to show their elevated minds in the least, as well as in the greatest things. On my arrival, General Seddon, no doubt, heard I was a man that had to make my way round the world, to support my existence, and study the human mind ; therefore, he honoured me with his visits, and I was glad to discover that he was active in many good things ; for there is a pleasure in knowing each man's particular virtues, with whom we have to converse. While he was o o 286 examining me, I admired the prudence of his questions. General Drummond soon joined his friend Seddon with his patronage, and they gave so powerful a support to my concert, that it would be ungrateful in me to omit mentioning their generosity. In the midst of settling public affairs, these great Generals found a moment to attend to mine ; by which they indulged their noble dispo- sitions, and called to my mind the story of Antisthenes. This Philosopher was, one day, bringing home, in his hand, fish from the market, at which many expressed their sur- prise. "It is for myself I carry this fish," said he, " but when I am calculating a quan- tity of stones or mortar, it is for my country." So General Drummond contributed to the welfare of his country, and was, at the same time, the bestower of happiness on many in- dividuals who were honoured with his kind- ness. I afforded a very favorable specimen of the 287 effects arising from the patronage of General Drummond and General Seddon ; for I be- came like a lady of fashion, on whom all eyes are turned, for the surprising taste of her dress. My fame spread so widely, from the kindness of their patronage, that it reached to some prisoners of a particular description, from whom I received an invitation to dine. I did not reject their civil attention, but only made a polite retreat, and gave my answer in the following manner : I told them that, in consulting my wishes, my inclination directed me to accept the kind offer of their pleasant society ; but there was one obstacle which presented itself, and I was with sor- row obliged to postpone .my visit till I procured the consent of General Drum- mond, which I would endeavour, as far as was in my power, to obtain. This answer- ed quite d propos ; for, the very same day, the General sent me a card to dine with him that day, when I was glad to have the oppor- 288 tunity of showing the unfortunate people's note. The General read it, smiling at their request, and, as soon as he had finished, asked me, if I had been instructed in my youth in political or ministerial affairs. This sudden demand made me immediately conjecture that, perhaps, those people were prisoners of state. " No," said I, " General, my master instructed me in what belonged to my com- fort in life — in the principles and practice of virtue, whence follows quietness of mind ; and in aiming at being a good man : which is as simple an education as I could receive from a school." This reply pleased the General, and he desired me to dine with them, with an order to the Governor of the place to show me every civility. The next day, when I appeared, the prisoners were all well dis- posed to receive me heartily, and expressed their joy more than I could have expected, and forgot, for a while, that their liberty was lost. In this confusion, the sentinels left 289 their posts to see me, at which time one of the prisoners set himself at large, perhaps to save the trouble of being judged by a Court Martial. This accident produced some kind of alarm, which could not fail to be reported to the General ; so the officer with fear was obliged to declare what had happened. The General, with his usual good nature, said, " Have you seen my little friend lately, because I heard the man who had fled had put him in his pocket ; if he has not, you know, my brother soldier, we are allowed to conquer, but not to be cruel, so let him go home to his children, and he will stop their crying." Such an unexpected answer asto- nished the officer, who was equally struck with the greatness of his mind. I never made the discovery of the cause for which these peo- ple were imprisoned, nor can it be of material consequence to the reader. I left Belfast, and passed quick as a sha- dow through Monaghan, Cavan, Mullingar, 290 and Killbeggan, and stopped at Portarlington, where I found most of the inhabitants speak- ing a foreign language ; and, what is more surprising, they had the manners and cus- toms of Continental people. But I was soon informed by some of them, that they were French Hugonots ; a set of people remarkable for their opinions, who made in France so great a change by their contests with a rival party, and who were at last compelled to take their departure from the kingdom. After their fall, having no prospect of any change in their favour, they all preferred to settle under the protection of liberal nations, who agree with their own sentiments in the mo- dern doctrine of faith. Therefore, some of those good families took refuge in Ireland ; and, to be useful to the kingdom, established a French academy, conducted by worthy and respectable members amongst themselves ; which produced many learned pupils, and ren- dered great service to the nation. In short, I 291 thought myself in the middle of France, from their politeness and attention, which are qua- lities familiar to the French nation. Those refugees inherited from their fore- fathers great animation of soul, and quick in- tellectual powers;. They soon perceived the motive of my arrival in town, and gave a good help to my concert, which I found most lucrative from their patronage. The interest they were so kind as to take in my behalf, they declared, was owing to my cheerful dis- position, which induced them to serve me. 'Tis true, it is unpleasant in society to meet with persons too reserved : it gives rise to many conjectures about them, and, after all, we find ourselves not at ease in their com- pany. My gaiety and good spirits are fortu- nately always equal. I sometimes happen to meet with disappointments, which I take as a storm, and console myself with thinking that next day I shall have tine weather : therefore, it is not of any use to alarm my 292 mind, since adversity must have an end as well as prosperity. I am perfectly astonished when I behold persons, whose situation would make life delightful, plunged into the deepest distress, because they want to stretch out their arms more than their coat will allow them, and, through false pride and a discon- tented mind, take a pleasure in tormenting themselves. My landlady at Portarlington will furnish an example : — She enjoyed three hundred pounds a year, after the death of her husband ; the rest of his effects her son took illtO his possession, but gave a most elegantly furnished house to his mother, where I lodg- ed. This lady one morning graciously paid me a visit, when, indeed, I was not ready to receive her, having my night-cap on. The dishabille in which she found me, contrary to my wish, did not make her retire. She sat down : " Take your breakfast, Sir," she said to me, " I come to consult you on a very interesting affair." " What business could bring you to take counsel from me?" I 293 answered. Upon this, she explained to me the cause of her solicitude, and said: " Since my husband's death, I have been reduced to three hundred pounds a year, upon which it is impossible for me to live now, having been used to so much more, and this puts me into a miserable state of low spirits, and loss of appetite." I began to talk to her very grave- ly upon this comical illness ; observing how many accidents happen from want, and mixing a little moral sentiment in my discourse, to prevent her perceiving I made game of her. " I cannot think," said I, " there is any great danger in your complaint, and I flatter my- self I can restore your good spirits." " Oh !" she replied, " I will look upon such a cure as a miracle ! I have applied to doctors, and not one could succeed, but your own gaiety con- vinces me that you are in possession of some mysterious secret, which you employ to have such wonderful spirits." " Yes, Madam," I replied, " I will not deny I take some black p P 294 powders, given to me by a great philoso- pher." She answered, " Blessed be his name ! I have been right when I thought you had some help for you 1 uncommon cheer- fulness, and I desire and beg of you to have mercy on my afflicted mind, and give me this powder." I was now sufficiently acquainted with her whimsical illness ; therefore I said to her, by way of a joke, " Go to your taber- nacle (for she was a strong Methodist), and give thanks for having discovered a secret for the cure of low spirits •" adding, that when she returned I would give her a black powder. She went, in fact, to her meeting- house, and Noad, having listened to our con- versation, and adopting the principle of So- crates, that God ought to be worshipped ac- cording to the law of the society in which we live, accompanied her ; he and she groan- ing and singing mournful hymns. But, now that I had seriously embarked in this arduous undertaking, I confess I began 295 tt> consult with myself, for some time, what to do ; and, at last, after ruminating a good while, I took some bread, which was left on my table, and immediately secured the door, to prevent any body troubling me in my la- borious work. I next put in order what was required for my chymical preparations, hav- ing tongs, fire, and shovel, upon which I put bread, and began a process, similar to that of making the tincture of antimony. First of all, the saline matter I found close to a very hot fire after the operation, in the form of a scoria, or combination of fixed salt, per- haps confounded with the crust, which part- ly calcined the bread by means of the acid 3 and altogether formed a neutral salt, which gave me a beautiful shining black powder^ and I found it very good for my purpose When I employed it for her use, I pulverized it, in which state it bore the name of D rs% ma Metattorum : but, for want of a mortar, I was obliged to substitute my cup and ^aiicer, 296 with which I contrived to press it. It ail" swerta as wei* m possible, and gave a most excellent black powder, rtady to be taken in some liquid. For her complaint I preferred water gruei, which I administered according to the rules of an eminent doctor. At first, looking at my watch, I felt her pulse, which I found irregular ; though I cannot in con- science say, whether the irregularity lay in her pulse, or in my watch. I sent her to bed with orders to take, three times a day, the black powder in water gruel, most strictly pro- hibiting her from taking any nourishment whatever, because I recollected she told me she had not any appetite, therefore I did not want to go contrary to the wish of nature, but to perform my doctorship with know- ledge, as far as I could understand. I thought it proper to put her in a good feather-bed, to make her perspire ; a design which the wea- ther (it being summer-time) helped me to put in execution. Her servant girl swore at 297 uie, and told me that I would be the cause of her mistress's dissolution, she was in such a violent perspiration, which I attributed to the virtue of the black powder, and assured her it was a symptom of her speedy recovery. Of this I entertained no doubt from my at- tention, and the merits of this noble powder; for at the end of three days she had got a wolf's appetite, and sent to me to give her leave to eat a beefsteak. But, as the ge- neral practice of doctors led me, from many considerations, not to allow my patient to have any thing that came under the name of solid food, till she was reduced in strength, and as I had yet in my possession ten more of the medicinal powders to administer (though she had already consumed a num- ber of them), I sent her those to mix in water gruel ; but, in order to be more merci- ful than the rest of the faculty, in prescribing jalap, rhubarb, and laudanum, I permitted her, in case her appetite increased, to take 298 @ne egg for her dinner. But she soon took advantage of me, and exceeded her allow- ance ; for the next day, not waiting any longer, she eat half a yard of sausages, to the surprise of every one in the house, and her spirits were so much improved, that it was impossible to stop her prattle. I must say she was • of a generous disposi- tion ; for she did not forget to ask me for my bill, wanting to pay me for my ^abour: in truth, she was not wrong in her idea, for how can doctors and apothecaries live without being rewarded ? and if I had calculated my time in making the black powder, with at- tendance, feeling her pulse, and looking in, her eyes, (which is the hereditary practice amongst the doctors, in order to find some- thing, though I found in her large blue eyes nothing but a good deal of conversation), — for the whole of my trouble on this ocpa- sion, if I had charged her twenty pounds, I should have thought myself as honest a 299 man as possible. However, I was well re- warded by accepting of a writing-box from her son, as a memorandum that I cured his mother with a black powder, that could not do harm to ajiy body ; and, to my satisfaction, I found myself a doctor, without being at the trouble of taking a degree for this sub- lime knowledge, not having any ambition to aspire to the height of this noble specula- tion. I therefore set out for Waterford, through which town I once passed rapidly, if my rea- der recollects my shipwreck with Captain Stomerville. Here is the finest harbour I could find in Europe, and ships come up close to the quay. If I am correct in my re- collection, this city carries on a great trade with many kingdoms, and more particularly with England. There are no low spirits to be found amongst the inhabitants of Waterford : quite the reverse, their minds are occupied in looking after pleasures, and in shewing 300 kindness to strangers. I had the happiness of being introduced to their society ; and their attentions and eagerness to find out amuse- ments for me, give them a claim to be men- tioned with the profound est gratitude. After a few weeks spent in jollity amongst them, I changed my climate, and appeared at Armagh, where I had the honour to meet General Nugent, who was at that time Com- mander in Chief in Ireland. This amiable General, who, in whatever troublesome sta- tion b might be placed, was indefatigable in his duty, united, with a depth of understand- ing in his public, such dignity of sentiment in his private character, as to place his whole delight in captivating the hearts of the na- tion* How simple a process it seemed to such a man as him, to inspire amazing repu- tation by his bounty ; but, in truth, every thing he did was dictated by the same vir- tuous principle which he displayed, when he addressed the Judges of the Court-martial^ 301 and became the admiration of the whole kingdom. His high reputation led me to think, if such an illustrious man takes me under his patronage, it will procure good success to my benefit ; but, unfortunately, I had no prospect of getting introduced to him. I therefore ordered my concert bills to be distributed at any rate, lose or win : but, as good luck would have it, the General got a bill ; and, as great minds never sleep, but are watchful to do good, he sent me a card to invite me to dine with him, with express orders to bring an account of my politics. This gave me some uneasiness ; and, said I to myself, "It is true, politics are in great vogue at present, but for my part I am not acquainted with them, neither have I any letters to show him concerning political af- fairs, or any desire to enter into such con- cerns ;" wondering, at the same time, who could give such an unjust report of me, as to occasion such a demand. Knowing his up- Qq 302 right mind, I considered that I might go without fear, as he would soon discover my innocence, and set me free from calumny. I then began to take a review of my late and present actions, which suggested to my mind, what sort of report to give to the General ; which was this ;— -One morning a number of gentlemen came into my room, and were plea- sed to exhibit, eiiempore, a political drama, to exercise their wit. This strolling company of political players began with misrepresent- ing Pitt, Fox, and Camden, and then amused themselves with giving their representations of other men in power. But I remarked that not one of them acted the part of the Lord Lieutenant Cornwallis, which I concluded must be too difficult a task for them. During their performance, I could not help thinking these gentlemen stood in need of a surgeon or physician, to cure the disorder which had possessed their brains with the imagination that all Europe ought to be changed accord- 303 ing to their own fancy. Hearing such ab- surd dialogues, I thought it most prudent to keep a profound silence ; but, at last having exhausted all their sense, they became quiet, and asked me for my decision of these mat- ters. I excused myself, by saying, "Jam not acquainted with any kind of politics, except one, which, from its advantage to me, I prefer above all others ; and that is, the tickets in my pocket. May I venture to recommend my own plan ? I look upon it as the first political doctrine, to look at home, to observe propriety of conduct, attend to your domestic affairs, and to direct your family in a peaceable and orderly manner : the nation, if you act thus, will look upon you as a true son of the mother kingdom." This account, which was not improbable, contributed greatly to my introduction to the General and Mrs Nugent, from whom I had a kind reception, with such polite and friend- ly manners, that I might have thought my- self at home, had it not been for the deep sense I entertained of the respect due to them. Their method of conducting the con- versation was easy : every one was allowed a perfect freedom of reply, without the fear of be-ng interrupted, which is a defect we of- ten find in persons of little knowledge. In fact, I -.pent my time very pleasantly, talk- ing on a variety of subjects, which General and Mrs Nugent supplied, and by degrees Mrs N. introduced those politics of my tickets, wishing me to repeat my account, which I did, having no objection to deliver them. The General took particular notice of what I said ; and from what I could observe in his coun- tenance, it was to his satisfaction. At last, with some degree of precipitation, he asked me for my tickets ; and I had the honor of presenting them to him On receiving them, he said to me, " Your politics are truly plea- sant, having the power to unite all parties in good harmony, and to inspire general plea- 305 sure ; the rest are merely the effects of per- verseness and pride in a great part of mankind, which prevent them from ever experiencing such happiness as your own ; — a very just ob- servation indeed ! The next day was my con- cert, and I found the General's opinion of politics fully confirmed, when with astonish- ment I beheld a most brilliant society in my room. But this numerous company must be attributed to the patronage of Mrs Nugent, to whose powerful name the public wished to pay respect. The bounty of this amiable lady was already enough exerted to call for my warmest thanks ; yet not satisfied with bringing me such a numerous assembly as would have defrayed every expence, she sent me money to defray the whole amount, as if she had thought I had not before sufficient cause to recollect her ; though, in truth, gra- titude had impressed her image too strongly on my heart, ever to t>e obliterated. CHAP. XII. Visit to Kilkenny — Invitation to. dine with Lord Or- mond, who kindly patronizes a concert ; an unexpect* ed discovery or " agreeable surprize" — Introduction to Colonel Chapman and other military officers — Disappointment in consequence of the arrival of a French fleet, and the landing of General Hocke at Bantry Bay — Arrival at Longford — Journey to Drogheda — Advance and surrender of General Humbert — Passage from Ireland to the Isle of Man —Hospitable reception at Douglas — A strange din- ner party, and whimsical duel. After my lucrative benefit at Armagh, I prepared to visit Kilkenny. This excursion I took from the advice of an officer, whom I had met with at his quarters in several towns, and who by his kindness had evinced a great regard for me. This interesting gentleman was highly favored by nature, being adorned 307 with a most elegant figure, ar-d having an ex- cellent disposition, together with other estima- ble qualities in great perfection; so that he not only attracted the friendship of the men, but was much admired by the fair sex. In short, I never experienced more attention, he being a constant visitor at my house : as for his name, I nevermade inquiry about it; for, being a traveller, I thought it no material object, as I had no certainty of ever meeting him again. Before my departure I missed him, and found myself uneasy, wondering what had become of him. My inquiries after him put off my journey for some days. At last I found he had leave from the Colonel for a few days, but no one could inform me whither he was gone, therefore I set out and arrived at Kil- kenny. On the following morning, at breakfast, the Captain made his appearance. I cannot de- scribe how much I was gratified by his pre- sence. He called Noad to make some butter- 80& eel toast, having not yet breakfasted, and being accustomed to take that meal with me. While we were drinking our coffee with good cream, and fresh butter upon the toast, Noad brought me a card of invitation from Lord Ormond to dine with him. I was rather inclined to refuse, and said to my friend, I was tired with my journey ; but he telling me he was invited there himself, and that it would be more pleasant for him to meet me, I could not refuse, and wrote an answer, that I would be there. After break- fast, he left me with a promise to return and accompany me to his Lordship, which he did. On my introduction to his Lordship, an un- expected scene presented itself to my view, I found in my unknown friend the Captain, the son of the illustrious Lord Ormond. This spectacle was indeed curious, for at my sur- prise both were delighted, and his Lordship could not conceive how I could be unac- quainted with his son's name. I replied, 309 that a name did not give title to friendship ; and besides, I never inquired, more or less, concerning the affairs of a friend who wish- ed to put trust in me ; so that, as the Captain thought proper not to mention his name, I had not thought right to ask it. However, it seems the Captain had only wished' to keep me in the dark till he found a time to intro- duce me to his amiable father, who did me the honour to receive me, not as a stranger, but as the distinguished friend of his son. In consequence, I was treated with great at- tention, and he patronized my concert, which succeeded admirably well. Notwithstanding the good benefits arid generous reception I met with in many towns, rinding the times in some degree unfavour- able, and the public in general to be occu- pied rather with political- affairs than with pleasure, I determined, without delay, to carry my speculation, of making an alliance with the military, into execution. r r 310 Though I had heard that Athlone itself was but an indifferent town, my project was to meet a great many military gentlemen, who had something to spare out of their in- come received from the national purse. Con- sequently, I set out to make experiments j and on my arrival at Athlone, my first occupation was to provide myself a lodging. Among all that offered themselves to my choice, I could not find a better than a small thatched house, belonging to the first Apothecary of the place, where I found the walls of my room bent on one side, so as to threaten an imme- diate fall ; but in some respects they were very convenient, as the door shut of itself without the assistance of the hand. When I found that the whole town consisted of such description of buildings, I became re- conciled to my own, and employed my time in making a large acquaintance amongst the officers. Colonel Chapman took particular notice of me, and kindly gave me a general 311 invitation to dine with him at the barracks - y I did not refuse his polite offer, but accepted it with the warmest thanks. There I spent my time in the greatest luxury, turning day into night, and night into day ; in fact, I be- came an imitator of their dissipated life, and found, by this contrivance, I should have a famous concert, as I saw the ladies of the neighbourhood ordering new gowns for that evening, when I had no doubt the attention and politeness of my friends the officers would attract a great company. Colonel Chapman appointed the night for my concert, and ail was fixed according to his pleasure ; but after we had been enjoying ourselves the evening and part of the night preceding my benefit, an express arrived, at three o'clock in the morning, that the French fleet with General Hoche, had taken advantage of the opportunity afford- ed by a thick fog, and landed at Bantiy Bay. Consequently, the whole garrison 512 was obliged to march to meet the enemy, and left me alone with my bills in my hand, like the Methodist preacher, whom I robbed of his flock. General Hoche's im- politic act swept off at once all the tine har- vest I had expected to reap from my benefit night. On hearing this dreadful news, I had the pleasure to see that the whole town pro- fessed great loyalty, as all the inhabitants shut their houses, and their favourite dish of bread pudding was not to be seen in the street, on its way to the baker's oven,- for fear of meeting a Frenchman. As to my land- lord, he was making great preparation, ex- pecting to have much practice among the wounded soldiers. This put me in mind to make enquiry about a number of articles, whether his shop was provided with them, as cream of tartar, flour of sulphur, plaster of betony, distillation of soot, sal volatile of vi- pers, sal ammoniac, and many other things that came into my head. The answer he de- 313 liVered was extremely proper, and contained u good deal more information than I expect- ed. As I had not the knowledge of sal am- moniac, he instructed me in this manner : — " Now, Sir," he said to me, " there has a re- markable surname been given to this salt, that is, ammoniac. Some centuries ago the authors of chymistry were pleased to invent a variety of names^ which there is no need for me to acquaint you with ; only I must tell you of the origin of this, which is as follows : There was a temple of Jupiter Ammon, si- tuated in the middle of the deserts of Lybia ; and a number of caravans passing over those sands, in their pilgrimage to that temple, we are indebted to the urine of the camels for this precious salt of nature. But at present we are quite at a loss, as pilgrimages have ceased, and we have nothing but an imitation from the manufactory of Venice or Anvers, where they prepare it with five parts of some stronger salts, and one part of sal marine, 314 with one-half part of soot, baked together to- reduce it into a mass, and make it appear like the original from our good friends the camels." When he had finished his relation of sal ammoniacs, he asked me if I understood what he said : "Partly/ 5 said I. " If not entirely," said he, " it is because you are a stranger to our tongue, for it is impossible to give you a clearer account. 5 * But, in truth, I paid little attention during the whole time he related the generation of his ammoniacs, having been occupied with thinking of my depar- ture from Athlone ; but that I might not give him cause to think me unpolite, I bade him shew me the sal ammoniac. "I have not any," he replied, " I keep only James's salt, which is more beneficial than any of those you have mentioned." I then said to him, " Let me see this excellent salt : " You cannot get better," said he, " to cure beef or pork, it is from the manufactory of Mr James at Belfast. 5 * I re- 3L5 plied, " I admire your ability in curing beef and pork ; how proud must the University be to produce such a clever scholar I" I would not enter farther into conversation, finding all his knowledge consisted in the art of pickling beef. To save time in my own concerns, I ex- amined my map to find which was the near- est town for me to go to, as I perceived my income beginning to be rather low. This I found to be Longford, the chief town of the county of that name, which I had also heard was a pleasant city j so I set out immediate- ly. On my arrival, I did not fail to meet with a good reception, though, in some de- gree, depressed by the gloom upon their coun- tenances, arising from the false alarm the French General had given them. Notwith- standing this, however, I became as fashion- able as a new dress just arrived for the ladies. The novelty of my person prevailed over every thing else ; no more was mentioned of 316 General Heche. Their houses were hospi- tably opened to receive me, and my name spread so far, that it reached the whole neigh- bourhood. I soon received a polite invita- tion to dine with a gentleman in the country ; and finding the distance to his house no more than one mile, I accepted it with pleasure. Some of the gentleman's friends came for me in a chaise, and we set out together. We soon arrived, and met a pleasant society, who were by no means remiss in circulating merry conversation. The lively repartee and sensi- ble remarks of an enchanting circle of ladies, induced us to forget home, and we did not think of the late hour, till the ladies put us in mind of our departure. We then all got ready to go ; but it was in vain, for the -servant in- formed us, that a message had come from the master of the inn to say, there was not a chaise to be got in the town, they being all engaged with passengers ; therefore, some of the party wanted to walk, but the darkness of the night 317 and the heavy rain prevented this : so a goo.d deal of confusion ensued amongst us, which at last put the master of the house in a state of uneasiness, and he declared his best jaunting car was broken, and the one he had at home he was ashamed to offer, but they begged of him to make it ready. Mr Macguire, the master of the house, then provided from his neighbours pelisses for his friends the ladies, also great coats for tire gentlemen, and for me his own spencer, in winch my little figure cut so droll an appear- ance, that no one could stand for laughing ; but, in spite of this caricature, I was very well pleased with being so snug. When all was ready and disposed to move, Mr Macguire gave orders to put his favourite mare to the cart, which had the reputation of being a quiet beast : so at last we went with lanthorns to take possession of our seats. I was favour- ed with being near the driver, and close behind the mare. I admired her long tail, and it s s 318 seemed to me, her keepers had not been at all sparing of their oats. But when we be- gan our trip, I found myself in an awkward situation ; and, being without experience in such expeditions, I confess, I could not find any method to keep myself steady ; and I received such violent shakes, sudden tosses, and pulls, that I was near falling to the ground. Obliged, therefore, to lie down, I accidentally found something to keep hold of with my hand, and thus secured myself; but another inconvenience arose ; for, if I moved in the least, I was in danger of losing my life. Whilst I was in this very awkward situation, the mare, giving full scope to her natural dis- position, kept beating my face with her tail, which prevented me from opening my eyes, for fear of being blinded : for this exercise of patience, I was amply rewarded by bringing upon my head great plenty of such materials as are useful to improve mushrooms, turnips, and cabbage. However, the ladies and gentle- 319 men had their share of the dirty road ; for, on their appearance at home, the servants did not know their masters, and were obliged to prepare baths for them, as Noad had done for me. After our purification from this dirty condition, I next day found the ladies in my concert room, the beautiful bloom of whose faces had sustained no injury, and who did me the honour to be the ornaments of the last night I spent in that good city. Next day I took my departure for Droghe- da. My principal object was to reach good winter quarters, as I considered that the bad season was advancing : therefore, I passed through many places where I only changed horses, and at last came to Slone. According to my recollection, it was a dark night, and bitterly cold. At a distance from the town I perceived an Aurora Borealis, or flame in the sky, with which my eyes were so delight- ed, that I could not withdraw them from it, Whilst my mind was completely buried m 320 humbly reflecting on the works of our great Creator, I did not notice where I was, and found myself close to the flame, when a guard stopped the chaise with an order to go no further. An officer on duty soon appeared, inquiring who was in the chaise, and finding from his language he was no common man, I took the opportunity of begging to speak to him. On hearing my voice^ he approached the chaise ; and, opening the door, very friendly shook hands with me, saying, in French, lit was acquainted with my name, and immedi- ately wrote a %qte, with a request that I woulcl deliver it to the Colonel, and gave directions to the driver, in English, where to go. During this conversation, we were provided with a light ; and, from the appearance which this gentleman made, I took him for a Russian officer, as he had on a green uniform. At this time his Russian Majesty was upon friendly terms with Great Britain, and I imagined that his troops had landed to pre- 80! vent an invasion from the enemy, who had been again expected. With this strange idea I was persuaded that I should find some un- cultivated Kalmucks ; but my false notion was soon removed, when I met with the es- sence of Irish politeness j and such sweetness of manners and attention a,s are far beyond my ability to describe. We supped very late ; and after that, my eyes becoming rather heavy from the fatigue of my journey, the Colonel ordered my bed to be made ready, and in a few minutes, with the rest of the officers, conducted me to it, desiring me not to put off my clothes, that T might be ready to set out at five o'clock. Of the reasons for this, I am not able to give an explanation j but it is certain, the Colonel with some of the officers came at the hour appoint- ed, and made me rise, -and conducted me to a room where breakfast was waiting for me, and immedately after, put me into a chaise, when I took my last farewell, for I have never met with them again. 32£ On my arrival at Drogheda, I did not find any thing worthy of remark, but the hand- some harbour, which I compared to the I Af- fey in the bay of Dublin. My stay in these winter quarters was but short, as I perceived the citizens involved in deep gloom, rejecting all kind of amusements, and without any sign of recovering their good spirits, the minds of the whole town being in a state of alarm, with the idea of a second visit from the French. Whatever their uneasiness might be, it did not make any impression on my mind y for when I reflected on the refined knowledge and politeness of the French* na- tion, I considered that if it were possible they should become masters of the kingdom, when they felt their own superiority, it would be their interest not to oppress the people, or be savage ; otherwise, they would show how ill-founded and hollow was the reputa- tion they enjoyed of being a civilized nation. I thus persuaded myself, to indulge a good 3 C 23 opinion of them ; otherwise, perhaps, I should have shrunk into a corner like the inhabitants of Drogheda, but I would not allow their spreading fears to influence me, and boldly changed my asylum. Fickle fortune now frustrated all the exer- tions I made for my welfare j for when I vi- sited Enniskillen, Kerry, Bandon, and Fer- managh, the benefit I received was precisely such as if I had sown pease, and the cater- pillars had destroyed them. The French General Humbert landing at Killalla, became master of the town, and of Tuam which lay in his route. Elated by his rapid progress, he rashly advanced to Castlebar, where he met General Lake, a man of great understanding in the art of war, and whose measures were no doubt wisely taken ; but the battle which ensued, made no impression upon Humbert, and he directed his way to Dublin. But the Marquis Cornwallis, a man of great natural sweetness of disposition, and much knowledge, 324 Coming up, eight hundred French laid down their arms to him without resistance. The motives which occasioned this inva- sion of General Humbert, are to me un- known ; but such actions, however they may be in request with the lovers of war, and ad- mirers of heroic exploits, are nevertheless odious to a quiet and feeling mind. But who is to be blamed, Humbert or his master, by whose orders he acted ?— that master whom I may perhaps be allowed to compare to Nebu- chadnezzar, ordained from above as a power- ful instrument to carry into captivity the whole of the Israelites. I confess I have no great knowledge in these matters, and shall therefore content myself with mentioning what I can remem- ber of a story of the King of the Mice, whose rapacious disposition induced him to plunder many things from the farmer's stores, the acquisition of the booty increased his cove- tousness, and the fulness of his pride still 325 tempted him to grasp at more of his neigh- bour's goods, he therefore committed fresh depredations ; and assembled, from the re- motest provinces, his wise subjects, and dis- closed his eager desire to take into his pos- session a delightful place, and make himself absolute master of it. The whole council not only approved, but highly admired his Majesty's project, and agreed to send ambas- sadors to the rats and weazels, inviting their Monarchs to join his tribe, with a promise to divide the spoil, and to immortalize their race. -"T> reception ; and on my arrival, it was an- nounced to me, that I need trouble my mind no more with ideas of going to the other side of the water, to glean for my living. At this fortunate moment, I received from their benevolent hands, a sum of money sufficient to procure me independence, and the enjoy- ment of a quiet, happy life. Such an unlook- ed-for reverse of fortune, thus terminating at once the troubles and fatigues to which I had been for so many years accustomed, ex- cited in my breast a tumult of astonishment and joy, which deprived me of all power to give utterance to the emotions of my heart. My looks alone were capable of conveying the least idea of the transports and extacies of my gratitude towards the benevolent and amiable family of Metcalfe, for this last act of their beneficence, which so nobly crowned their former bounties. I should prove myself but ill deserving of the many good friends it has been my happi- 3 B 374 jiess to meet with, were I, whilst memory is employed in the delightful task of contemp- lating their kindness, to forget the name of Burdon of Hartford. This gentleman, be- ing under an apprehension that I might be in want, offered, with the most unlimited generosity, to supply my necessities. I could not think of abusing the goodness of so noble and generous a heart, by unnecessarily avail- ing myself of his liberal offer, and was there- fore obliged to confess, that my circum- stances were then such as placed me above the reach of want. He was a good deal sur- prised at this declaration, and no doubt con- cerned, that he was deprived of an opportuni- ty of exercising his bounty. But let me as- sure his worthy family, that his kind inten- tions towards me have- impressed me with sentiments of gratitude to his memory, which can never be extinguished but with life itself. I am now drawing near to the conclusion of my wandering life, being arrived, at that 375 period in which I quitted the busy stage where I had performed a part in so many tragic and comic scenes, and retired to the quiet enjoyment of an asylum from its cares and perplexities, which had been the object of my wishes from my earliest days. It was in the happy land of England that I found this blessings CONCLUSION. The City of Durham appeared to be most happily adapted to my wishes for a retired life ; not only from its romantic situation, but from its being the abode of a friend whose manners were so congenial with my own, and whose society afforded me such heartfelt delight. To Durham therefore I was now determined to direct my steps, intend- ing to settle there, and once more enjoy the company of my worthy friend Ebdon. A few days before my departure from London to realize this happiness, the antici- pation of which brought tears of pleasure to my eyes, I had the good fortune to meet with a friend from the north, who politely offered to conduct me to Durham, at which 877 city he resides. I availed myself of his kind- ness ; and we had no sooner arrived there, than he did me the honor to introduce me to his lady, who received me with all the po- lite attention and affability which ?o natural- ly spring from her amiable disposition. After I had paid my respects to this esteem- ed gentlewoman, I immediately attended. to that object which was nearest to my heart, and hastened to see my good friend Mr. Eb- don, whose share in my affections and esteem remained still undiminished. I informed him, on our meeting, that I had now quitted the busy theatre of the world, and its noisy and promiscuous intercourse, which had un- mercifully robbed me of so many precious hours, that might, in retirement, have been devoted to a much better use in the improve- ment of the mind. I must now at the same time confess, observed I, that I have found travelling an excellent school for acquiring a more extensive and accurate knowledge of mankind ; as it presents to our view such an astonishing variety of characters, minds, and manners of every description, and makes us acquainted with the moral, as well as the na- tural, phenomena of the world. I have, how- ever, now obtained from that school all the knowledge I desire, and am not sorry to find myself safely lodged at last, in this snug little corner of the earth. My dear friend Ebdon, with his amiable family, happy to find that such were my seniments, and rejoic- ing in the prospect of my being at length freed from the troubles of the world, offered me, with most engaging frankness, a quiet asylum in his house. This generous proposal convinced me, that I had now found one with whom friendship was something more than a bare name ; one in whose breast its noble and genuine prin- ciples were carefully cherished. I could not but reflect on the contrast he presented to the generality of those whom the world com- 379 pliments with the title of friends, — who too often mock our expectations of a substance, with an empty shadow ; and I felt happy in being enabled to enjoy, in the decline of life, the serene and steady light of a sincere at- tachment, secure from the deceitful blaze of common friendship, which in a moment disap- pears, and leaves us involved in dismal dark- ness* Convinced as I was, that with Mr. Ebdon I incurred no risk of being deluded by the vain professions of an inconstant pre- tender of friendship ; but that the proposal of this worthy man arose from the goodness of his disposition, and from the impulse of those feelings which prompted him to secure for me a happy retreat, I could not resist such kindness, but readily accepted his gene- rous offer. My expectation of happiness in his society were fully realised ; and deeply must I regret, that it was so soon to have an end. Unfortunately for myself, his family, and friends, he was seized with a dangerous 380 illness. Recourse was had, in vain, to all the help of medical art, and within a few months he died, with the same tranquillity and calm- ness of soul which had attended him through life. This sad event, which I cannot even now recal to mind without a tear, wounded my feelings deeply : severe, however, as was my grief, it seemed fully warranted by the consciousness I possessed, how worthy to be lamented was my departed friend ; and I could not but look on the occasion as one of those which might, even in the sight of Hea- ven, justify my sorrow. My grief was soon perceived by the Misses Ebdon, who knowing that it proceeded from my affection to their father, generously proposed that we should remain together. This unexpected honour I accepted with much pleasure. From that time my days have been spent in their society, and to this moment I still employ myself in studying to evince the gratitude I feel for that kindness which has enabled me to enjoy my 381 beloved retreat, with those who had been the happy witnesses of my introduction to it, and who are so nearly allied, as well by disposi- tion as by blood, to that lamented friend to whom I owe the blessing. S c POSTSCRIPT. From the period when I fixed my resi- dence in a quiet and retired cottage, where my days glided on in undisturbed tranquil- lity, I had ceased to remember that I was born the child of misfortune ; my troubles had all passed away, and I vainly flattered myself, that in this sweet retirement, adversity would never reach me. Thus happy in my present situation, and elated with the most flattering prospects of futurity, I undertook and com- pleted the task of writing my Memoirs. But no sooner had I delivered them into the hands of the Printer, than I had the misfor- tune to lose my dearest protectress, Miss Margaret Metcalfe. My feelings are too painful to permit my dwelling on the dis- tressing subject. I leave it to the reader to conceive, how severe a task it is to support the affliction felt, when our dearest friend has bidden an eternal farewell to the world. Nor will time itself avail to heal my sorrows ; for a loss so great as I have sustained must be contemplated, even to the latest moments of existence, with the deepest grief and re- gret. One melancholy satisfaction I possess, — the thought that I was regarded by my la- mented benefactress, at the close of her valu- able life, as not unworthy of the goodness she had extended to me during so long a period of it, and that I still owe my inde- pendence to her bounty. Her sacred memory is now, alas ! all that is left of my protectress, and there my gratitude must ever dwell. FINIS. FEINTED BY F. HUMBLE AND 00. DURHAM, SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY, KING GEORGE THE FOURTH. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF GLOUCES- TER. • THE HONOURABLE AND RIGHT REVEREND THE LORD BISHOP OF DURHAM. A. Affleck Sir John, Dalham Hall, Newmarket. Amory Samuel, Esq. 52, Lothbury, London. Allsopp L., Esq. Nottingham. Allan J., Esq. Blackwell, Durham. Andrews Mr. G., Durham. (2 Copies.) Ashton Mr., do. Anonymous. (2 Copies.) Alderson Thomas, Esq. London. Ambler Miss, Bishop Middleham, Durham. Atkinson James, Esq. Yorkshire. B. Barrington Lord Viscount. Barrington Hon. W., Durham. Broke Lady, Nacton House, Ipswich. Brookes W., Esq. Kingsland, Crescent, London. Brookes Miss, do. Brookes Miss M. do. Burgess Mrs., Durham. Beckett Thomas, Esq. Thornton-le-Moor, Yorkshire. Burdon The late W., Esq. Hartford. Burdon W., jun. Esq. do. Burdon Mrs., do. Burdon Miss, do. Burdon Miss Eliza, do. Brockett J. T., Esq. Newcastle. Brown Miss, Mile End, London. Brand Mrs., Durham. Baker Rev. James, Durham. Baker Mrs. James, do. 3 c 586 subscribers' names. Burrell W., Esq. Broom Park, Northumberland. Bright Rev. Thomas, Forton, near Newport, Shropshire. Bewick Mrs., Close House, Northumberland. Baseley C. H., Esq. Scot's House, Durham. Baseley Mrs., do. Bun-ell John, Esq. Durham. Bonomi Mr., do. Barker Samuel, Esq, Lyndon. Brown Rev. G., Ushaw College, Durham. Britton Rev. James, Yorkshire. Barras Miss Mary, Gateshead. Blackburn Rev. James, Newcastle. Barne Snowdon, Esq. 8, Portugal Street, London. Barnwell Rev. Francis, Bury St. Edmund's, London. Burdon R., Esq. Oriel College, Oxford. Bungey Mr.. Durham. C. Castlereagh The Right Honourable Lord. Clarke Rev. J., Durham. Chrishop Miss, do. (2 Copies.) Cay ley Dr. do. (do.) Crowe R., Esq. Kiplin, Yorkshire. Carr Rev. J., Durham. Campbell Colin, Esq. Trinity College, Cambridge. Coles John, Esq. Lothbury, London. Campbell Miss, Sidmouth, Devonshire. Colling Miss E., Hurworth, Durham, Crowe Mrs., Durham. Colberg Miss, Mongewell, Oxfordshire. Cholmondeley George, Esq. 18, Great Cumberland Street, London. Cholmondeley Mrs., do. Clavering Mrs., Northumberland Street, Newcastle. Collinson Rev. J., Gateshead. Collinson Mrs., do. Clavering Lady Augusta, Edinburgh. \ D. Darlington The Right Honourable the Earl of, Raby Castle, Darlington Countess of, do. David's The Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of St. Durell Rev. D., Prebendary of Durham. Durell Mrs., Durham. Durell D. V., Esq. Durham. Donkin Henry, Esq. Durham. Dickens Henry John, Esq. York. Davison Mrs. Edward, Harlington Rectory, Middlesex. Dalton Rev. J., Rector of Croft, Yorkshire. Davidson John, Esq. Newcastle. subscribers' NAMES. 587 E. Ebdon C, Esq. Durham. Ebdon Rev. T., do. Eden Dr., do. Eden Miss, do. Elliott Robert, Esq. 46, Devonshire Street, London. Ewbank Rev. Thomas, Stockton. Ellis Welbore, Esq. Banker, London. F. Forster Mrs., Alnwick, Northumberland. Forster J., Esq. do. do. Fawcett Rev. J., Newton Hall, Durham. Fawcett J., Esq. Baliol College, Oxford. Fenwick Dr., Durham. Fox Mr. Geo. T., Westoe. Forster Mrs., Newcastle. Forster Henry, Esq. Temple, London. Forster Job, Esq. Westgate Street, Newcastle. G. Grey The Hon. and Rev. A., Prebendary of Durham. Gray Rev. Dr., do. (5 Copies.) Green Miss, Durham. Garthwaite Captain, Sunderland. George Rev. P., Durham. Gamlen Rev. S., do. Graham Rev. J., Christ's College, Cambridge. George Mr. H. S., Crook Hall, Durham. George Mrs., do. Gardner Mrs., Durham. Gray Rev. Robert, Sunderland. Gray Mrs. do. Gibson Thomas, Esq. Newcastle. Gibson Miss E., Ellison Place, Newcastle. Gibson Rev. J. S. do. Grey John, Esq. Bishopwearmouth. H. Harcourt The Countess of, Nuneham, Oxfordshire. Haggitt Rev. Dr., Prebendary of Durham. Haslewood Rev. D., Durham. Henshaw Mr., do. Humble Mr. F., do. Hutchinson Mrs., Egglestone, Durham. Harrison George, Esq. Treasury Chambers, London. Hammett James, E;;q. Bath. Hammett Mrs., Bath. Hammett Mrs J., do. 388 'SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. Hopper Miss, Durham. Hopper J. R., Esq. Hopper T., Esq. Hendon, Durham. Haslewood Rev. B., Sunderland. Hammond Mrs., 7, Dean Street, Park Lane, London. Hutton Rev. John, Houghton Hall, Durham. Hodgkinson Mrs., Chester Place, London. Hindle Mr., Kingsland Cottage, do. Hindle Mrs., do. do. H-adlam Miss, Gateshead. Halhead Miss, Durham. Hay Edward, Esq. Christ Church, Oxford. Hue Rev. Dr., Jesus College, Oxford. Hirnsworth T. W., Esq. Lincoln College, Ojiford. Hammond A., Esq. Durham. Hoar W., Esq. do. Hobson John, Esq. Richmond, Yorkshire. Hopper John, Esq. Norfolk. Henderson John, Esq. Upper Charlotte Street, Filzroy Square, Lon- don. Head Mr., Trinity College, Cambridge. Headiam Dr., Newcastle. Haytcn William, Esq. Bishopwearmouth. K. King Mrs., Gateshead. (2 Copies.) Kitchinman Rev. H., Yorkshire. Kelly James Birch, Esq. Durham. Kestevan Mr., London. I" Liddell Sir Thomas Henry, Bart. Ravensworth Castle. Liddeil Lady, do. Lambton John George, Esq. M.P., Lambtcn Hall. Lambton Lady Louisa, do. Logan A., Esq. Durham. — Laye Lieutenant-General, Newcastle. Lamb H., E=q. Newcastle. Lamb J., Esq. do. Leybourne Mr J., Durham. Lawson Sir Henry, Bart. Brough Hall, Yorkshire. Lempriere Miss, I ymington. Lonsdale William, Esq. St John's College, Cambridge. Light Lieut. -Colonel, Durham. Lutenor Mr. G., do. M. Middleton Lady, Shrubland Park, Ipswich. Maxwell Mrs., Durham. (3 Copies.) SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. 383 Marwood Rev. — , Bu»by Hall, near Stokesley, Yorkshire. Marwood Mrs.i do. Maling Mrs., Scot's House, Durham. Morrison Hev. J. H. Morrison Miss. Madellan Mr. G., Durham. Middleton R., Esq. do. Muir James, Esq. 33, George Street, London. Mair Mrs., do. Muir Miss, do. Muir Miss C, do. Muir Alexander, Esq. 13, Paper Buildings, Temple, London. Metcalfe Philip, Esq. 32, Hill Street, Berkeley Square, London. Metcalfe Miss. Metcalfe Miss M. Metcalfe Miss J. Metcalfe Miss Sophia, Brighthelmstone. Metcalfe Miss Emma, do. Macnamara Miss, 32, Charles Street, Berkeley Square, London. Maude Miss S., Selaby, Durham. Macknight Mrs., Durham. Macdonald Robert, Esq. Durham. Muir Samuel, E;q. 15, Ckarles Street, Berkeley Square, London. Musgrave George, Esq. 27, Green Street, Gro..venor Square, do. Mathews C, Esq. Highgate, London. (2 Copies.) Mather Mrs., Ellison Place, Newcastle. N. Northumberland His Grace the Duke of. Norwich The Lord Bishop of. Nesfield Rev. W., Brancepeth, Durham. O. Oxford The Honourable and Right Reverend the Lord BLhop of. P. Price Rev. Dr., Prebendary of Durham. Phillpotts Rev. H., do. Phiilpotts Mrs., Durham. Peat Rev. Sir Robert, Bishopwearmouth. Perigill Rev. , Northumberland. Prosser Rev. Dr., Prebendary of Durham. Preston Rev. W., Aycliffe, Durham. Pifchford Rev. John, Colwich, Staffordshire. Peters W., Esq. Newcastle. Penson Rev. P., Durham. Parker S., Esq. Elswick. Peareth Mrs., Usworth, near Gateshead. Pearson Miss, Northumberland Street, Newcastle. Pearson Miss M., do. do. 590 subscribers' names. R. Roxburgh Her Grace the Duchess of. Rowley Lady, 1, BulstroJe Street, London. Robson J., Esq. Richmond, Yorkshire. Raine Rev. J., Durham. Russell Matthew, Esq. M.P. Brancepeth Castle, Durham. Russell Mrs., do. Ramsay Dr., Newcastle. S. Strathmore The Right Honourable the Earl of. Stewart The Right Honourable Lord Vane Stewart Lady Vane. Scott Right Honourable Sir W., London. Strackey Sir H., Bart. 9, Hill Street, Berkeley Square, Londoft. Strackey Lady, do. do. Strackey R., Esq. London. Seddon Major- General, Durham. Swire Rev. Dr., Melsonby, Yorkshire. Salvin W. T., Esq. Croxdale, Durham. Surtees R., Esq. Mainsforth, do. Shipperdson Edward, Esq. Durham. (2 Copies.) Sanders J. W., Esq. Salvin B. J., Esq. Burn Hall, Durham. Shaftoe R. E. D., Esq. Whitworth, Durham. Steuart Hope, Esq. Houghton-le- Spring. Smith Rev. — — , Croxdale, Durham. Smith Rev. J., Vicar of Newcastle. Sharp Rev. A., Bambro', Northumberland. (2 Copies.) Sharp Mrs A., do. Sharp Mrs., Clare Hall. Scott Mr., Manchester. Scruton Richard, Esq. Durham. Scott Mrs., Sherton, N. B. Shafto Mrs., Battle Hill, Hexham. Sparke Mrs., Ridley Hall, Northumberland* Salter Mr., Bank, Durham. Salter Mr., junior, do. Stoker Mr., Surgeon, do. Scott Mr., Harden Mertoun, near Kelso. Scott Mrs., do. Scott Mr H., do. Scott Miss, do. Swinburne Mr., Durham. Spencer Rev. Robert, Helmington, Durham* Sewell Miss, Durham. Scott John, Esq. Bishopwearmouth. Stafford Miss. (2 Copies.) Smith Mr C, Savilie Row, Newcastle* subscribers' names. 591 Scott Miss, Newcastle. Smart John, Esq. Trewitt House, Northumberland. Smart William, Esq. Lombard Street, London. T. Tyrconnel The Right Honourable the Earl of. Tyrconnel Countess of. Twizledon John, Esq. Yorkshire. Travis Mr., Durham. Tathain Rev. R., St John's College, Cambridge. Tocker Mrs., Durham. Towney Richard, Esq. Dunchurch. Tredwell Mr W., Oxford. Trotter Coutts, Esq. 46, Bemer's Street, London. Todd Mr. G., York. Todd Mr. J., do. Thompson Mr Thomas, Saville Row, Newcastle. Theakstone Rev. M., Hur worth. Theakstone Mrs., do. Tathwell Miss, Whitburn. Tully C, Esq. Felling Shore, Gateshead. V. Viner Miss, Durham. Vachell Tanfield, Esq. Chelmsford. W. Williamson Sir Hedworth, Bart. Whitburn, Durham, Williamson Lady, do. Ward Miss, Hurworth. Ward Miss A., do. Woodifield Matthew, Esq. Durham. Woodifield Miss, do. Wharton Mr F., do. Witham Rev. G., do. Wilkie T. A., Esq. Lemington House. Waldie Richard, Esq. Clare Hall, Cambridge. Weston Rev. Stephen, Eiward Street, Portman Square, London, Wright Richard, Esq. Sands, Durham. Walker Joshua, Esq. London. Walker Henry, Esq. do.' Witham Henry, Esq. Lartington, Yorkshire. Witham Mrs., do. Ward J., Esq. Durham. Williams Mrs., do. Wilkinson Thomas, Esq. St John's College, Cambridge, Wilkinson General, Durham. SND OF SUBSCRIBERS NAMK, ERRATA. Page 190, line 2, for am, read ivas. 199, line 8, for Mrs. Brown, read Mrs. B — — . 297, line 11, for genearl, read general. = 505, line 19, after through, substitute a comma for the period. LENiy'12