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 COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 
 
A good study of a typical Cairn. Note widely set 
 
 ears, well placed eye, and wonderful 
 
 profusion of coat. 
 
CAIRN AND SEALYHAM 
 TERRIERS 
 
 By 
 MRS. BYRON ROGERS 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY 
 
 1922 
 
Copyright, 1922, by 
 Robert M. McBride & Co. 
 
 
 6^' 
 
 A 
 
 Printed in the 
 United States of America, 
 
 Published December, 1922 
 
 ftB 15 1923 
 
 g)ClA686382 
 
 I 
 
00 
 
 i 
 
 this book was inspired by and written for 
 
 ' My Customers 
 
 Past, Present and Future. 
 
The portion of this work dealing with 
 the Cairn Terrier is endorsed by the 
 Cairn Terrier Qub of America. 
 By Direction of the Governors, 
 
 A. D. TuRNBULL, Secretary. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 I The Cairn Terrier 1 
 
 II The Characteristics of the Cairn as a 
 
 "Pal" 7 
 
 III The Cairn Terrier in America .... 13 
 
 IV Standard Adopted by the Cairn Terrier 
 
 Club of America 16 
 
 V The Standard Discussed 19 
 
 VI The Sealyham Terrier 24 
 
 VII The Standard Discussed 31 
 
 VIII On Buying a Dog 37 
 
 IX On Raising a Puppy 46 
 
 X Questions and Answers on the Care of 
 
 A Dog 61 
 
 XI On the Care of a Bitch . . . . . . IZ 
 
 XII On Kennels 82 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 A typical Cairn Frontispiece 
 
 FACING PAGE 
 
 Home bred puppies at six weeks old 8 
 
 The home of the Cairn 10 "" 
 
 A team of "Misty Isles" bitches 12 
 
 Champion Northern Nonpareil 16 
 
 A good example of a Cairn Terrier 18 
 
 A short backed, cobby type of Cairn 22 
 
 A son of Brockholt Bronx ,24 
 
 Champion Hemlock Hill Boy Scout 24^ 
 
 International Champion Ivo Caradox 26 
 
 Champion Barberry Hill Gin Rickey, winner of 1921 28 
 
 The Sealyham, a "worker'^ 30 
 
 A typical example of the short back Sealyham . . 30 
 A team of typical bitches at Llandoyley . . . .34 
 
 Puppies sired by Brockholt Bronx 36 
 
 A group of Kennel Buildings at Llandoyley . . . 78 
 The Main Kennel and Office at Llandoyley . . .84 
 
CAIRN AND SEALYHAM 
 TERRIERS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 THE CAIRN TERRIER 
 
 Centuries ago, the misty isles of the north of Scot- 
 land had, for their working dog, a wiry, active little 
 terrier, of nondescript appearance but of great hardiness 
 and immense courage. 
 
 Day in, day out, in sunshine or in rain, this dog tramped 
 the hills with his owner, hunting down that hated enemy 
 of the farmyard, the cunning fox. It was the dog's duty 
 to follow the scent of the foe, burrowing under clumps 
 of heather, squeezing himself through narrow spaces, 
 balancing himself upon precipitous ledges, and leaping 
 from rock to rock; never losing the trail and ever guid- 
 ing; his master toward the hidden lair. This discovered, 
 the dog's work was but begun; for he alone could reach 
 the fox, hidden deep in the bowels of the earth, and so he 
 alone had to brave the darkness, to fight his fight unseen 
 and unaided. 
 
 Handicapped by his size and cramped by the small 
 "earth," the onslaught of the dog had to consist of snarl- 
 ings, snappings, and lightning attacks with sharp, strong 
 teeth. But so great was his courage and his tenacity of 
 purpose that Reynard inevitably found himself out-ma- 
 neuvered. In a flash of sudden realization, the fox would 
 discover himself, not with his back to the wall, but strug- 
 gling with a demon of doggy fury, and edging ever nearer 
 
 1 
 
2 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 his own front-door. A quick turn — a frantic rush toward 
 the light — and he would be out in the open, only to face 
 that other dreaded enemy — man! This was the job of the 
 Highland working terrier — the "little earth-dog," as he 
 was called in those far-off days. 
 
 Each of the Scottish Islands had its own breed; each 
 used its dogs for the same kind of work, adapting it to 
 suit individual needs. There was no "type," in the sense 
 that we now use the word. Some dogs were large, and 
 some were small ; some had prick-ears, and some had drop- 
 ears. There were short backs and long backs, high legs 
 and low legs, straight tails and curly tails, light eyes and 
 dark eyes. It mattered not at all what the dog looked 
 like, as long as he could do his work. Even color was 
 of no account, except that the reds were not popular 
 because they too closely resembled the fox and so might 
 easily be mistaken for the enemy coming out of an 
 earth. For hundreds of years, the Highland dog lived 
 and died thus, one generation after another bred for work 
 alone, reigning supreme upon its native heath, and un- 
 known even to the dwellers in the Lowlands of Scotland. 
 
 But there came a time when the islands were less iso- 
 lated from the mainland, when visitors began to explore 
 the rocky shores. This meant that attractive puppies 
 were acquired by strangers and carried away. One by 
 one, the Skye Terrier, the Clydesdale, the Aberdeen (now 
 called the Scottish) and the White West Highland Ter-- 
 rier were developed, benched at English Dog Shows and 
 recognized as distinct breeds by the Kennel Club. All 
 of them originated in the Hebrides, all of them were de- 
 scendants of the "little earth dog." 
 
 Finally, in 1909, at Cruft's Show in London, one or 
 two shaggy little fellows, entered as "Short-haired Skye 
 Terriers," appeared in the ring. The judge, Mr. R. 
 Leighton, tells us in his most interesting book that sev- 
 
THE CAIRN TERRIER 3 
 
 eral exhibitors of other breeds objected to the newcomers, 
 claiming that they were "mongrels" and that as such they 
 should never have been accepted by the Committee. But 
 Mr. Leighton, as he himself says, "recognized them as the 
 original, unspoiled working terrier of the Highlands" and 
 insisted upon his right to judge them. 
 
 As may easily be imagined, the Skye Terrier fanciers, 
 whose dog was already established as a recognized breed, 
 did not allow the matter to rest and much discussion fol- 
 lowed. The few owners of the new arrivals persisted 
 in their contention that they had a distinct breed. At 
 length, the Kennel Club gave it recognition, whereupon it 
 was re-christened the Cairn Terrier. As the Scots word 
 "cairn" means "a pile of rocks," the name seemed emi- 
 nently suitable for a native of the craggy Hebrides. 
 
 Once the breed had received recognition, classes for it 
 were offered at all the shows and the year 1910 saw many 
 more representatives on the bench and more exhibitors, 
 all, of course, hailing from the Highlands. It will inter- 
 est my readers to know that it was in this year that Mrs. 
 Alastair Campbell brought out the now famous Gesto, the 
 first of his breed to gain full championship honors and a 
 hale and hearty dog today ! Another of Mrs. Campbell's 
 dogs, that year, was Roy Mohr, whose name appears in 
 so many pedigrees of later generations. 
 
 The next step taken by Cairn fanciers was to form a 
 club and to draw up a Standard of Points. As may be 
 guessed, this, owing to the variety of types in existence, 
 each good for its particular work, was no easy task. 
 However, the leaders selected from the chaos the little 
 terrier, with neat, erect ears, straight front, and sensibly 
 short back; a debonair little fellow, full of life and en- 
 ergy, whose whole appearance was suggestive of alertness 
 and activity. They kept before them his original work 
 of fox-bolting, forgetting neither the agility he must have 
 
4 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 to leap from rock to rock nor the arched feet and thick 
 pads that gave him his vital surefootedness. Again, they 
 realized that, to burrow under the heather and squeeze 
 through crevices, the dog must be small and supple. At 
 home, wearing only the wonderful coat that nature had 
 given him, he had to face the terrific storms through 
 which his master went clad from head to foot in oilskins. 
 The pioneers of the breed remembered this and made a 
 great point of the thick close jacket — double-lined, one 
 might almost call it — with a short, furry inner-, and hard 
 outer-covering, through which neither rain nor sleet could 
 penetrate. Thus we have the present-day Cairn Terrier 
 cLS he ought to be. Doubtless the crofter, in his Highland 
 stronghold, is today hunting successfully with a dog that 
 falls far below our Standard. But, to bring any breed to 
 perfection from the show viewpoint, one must have a set 
 of rules to follow. Still, these rules are based upon the 
 dog's fundamental purpose in life and, although our Cairn 
 in America may never be taken out fox-bolting, let us not 
 forget to shape our ideal terrier toward the requirements 
 of his original work. 
 
 Cairn fanciers are fortunate in having a dog that can 
 be put down in the ring as Nature made him. He re- 
 quires no artificial trimming nor white chalk to make him 
 look as his Standard says he should look; it behooves us 
 all to keep him unspoiled in this respect. The idea that 
 a working-dog must be trimmed, plucked, powdered, and 
 so on, is abhorrent to the minds of most sport-loving 
 people and should be universally condemned. The test 
 of the worker is to take him out of the earth, brush him, 
 tidy him up, and put him into the ring. If he can win 
 then, he deserves to do it; for the dog himself is there 
 to be judged as he is, not as man, by months of toil and 
 unnatural treatment, has made him. 
 
 Speaking of judging, the Cairn, at present, is at a great 
 
THE CAIRN TERRIER 5 
 
 disadvantage in America as far as showing goes. 
 Scarcely any judges know what a Cairn should be, scarcely 
 any have ever even seen the pure type. This is most 
 unfortunate; it can be remedied only by the breeders 
 themselves. Until judges have learned to know the type 
 wanted, no Cairn should be shown that does not conform 
 closely to the Standard. There is no other way to teach 
 judges what we want in a breed which, even in Britain, 
 still shows a variety of type that is puzzling to the most 
 experienced. 
 
 When one knows the history of the Cairn, it is easier 
 to grasp the significance of this wide variance, easier to 
 understand why there is a West-Highland type, a Scot- 
 tish-Terrier type, a Skye-Terrier type, and a pure Cairn 
 type. But it is encouraging to see that we are slowly 
 getting to the point of breeding our dogs more nearly to 
 the same pattern. Naturally, it will take years to breed 
 out all the varieties of type that have existed for so many 
 generations, but it must be remembered th^t it is very 
 detrimental to the breed to attempt to reach this goal more 
 quickly by experimenting with illegitimate crossing. A 
 fact that has, in my opinion, considerably delayed the 
 establishment of one type has been the British decree that 
 it shall be legitimate to interbreed the Cairn with the 
 West Highland. The English Kennel Club brackets the 
 two breeds thus: "West Highland Terriers, White and 
 Cairn" and permits crossing. It is claimed that such a cross 
 is useful to get the lighter colors in the Cairn, such as 
 the reds and the sandies, and also to get the short, straight 
 tails. In my opinion, these features are of such minor 
 importance as to render the benefits of crossing neglible. 
 Undoubtedly, the Cairn and the West Highland are very 
 similar in type. and in general conformation, but there are 
 differences. The West Highland fanciers favor a heav- 
 ier dog than ours, with a blunter nose and a tighter ear- 
 
6 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 carriage. A Cairn who looks like a West Highland is not 
 a good Cairn, however similar he may be in many points. 
 His head is never the same; in this test he always fails. 
 
 We have also to contend with the Scottish-Terrier type. 
 Here, again, it is a heavier dog than our Standard allows, 
 with shorter legs and larger, longer head. He is coarser 
 all over, with eyes and ears less widely-spaced. Of 
 course, he may not have the grotesque exaggeration of 
 type to be found in the modern "Scottie" but, neverthe- 
 less, he is as different from a proper Cairn as day is from 
 night. 
 
 Again, the Skye-Terrier type is often seen. Though 
 less obvious, this quality spoils what may be an otherwise 
 good Cairn by making him look soft. Silky hair destroys 
 that almost indescribable Cairn "outlook" which is an 
 essential characteristic. 
 
 Now that we have tried to explain the difficulties as 
 regards type, it seems that our wisest course would be to 
 dismiss from our minds all thought of any type but one, 
 to try to follow in the footsteps of the pioneers of the 
 breed and stick to the Standard. Let us learn just what 
 that Standard means, so that we may know what we are 
 seeking. Above all, let us get together as members of 
 the Cairn Terrier Club of America and show no terriers 
 that fail, in our best judgment, to conform closely to the 
 requirements for a pure Cairn. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 THE CHARACTERISTIC OF THE CAIRN TERRIER 
 
 No Standard of Points nor physical perfections can 
 alter the charming character of the Cairn Terrier and I 
 would like to emphasize this to many people of moderate 
 means, who feel that they cannot afford to pay the high 
 prices asked for show specimens of the breed. 
 
 That prices are high is indisputable. The reason for 
 this lies in the fact that the dog is in great demand while 
 breeders are still very limited in number. As long as 
 the demand exceeds the supply, prices are bound to stay 
 up, but even so, it should not be impossible, occasionally 
 to "happen" upon a puppy that can be had for a fairly 
 low figure. 
 
 If anyone who wants to own a Cairn because of his 
 merit as a house dog, a child's companion, or a sporting 
 "pal," gets the opportunity to buy a low-priced puppy be- 
 cause his front is faulty, or his ears too large or his tail 
 too curly, my advice is not to hesitate, provided the pup's 
 health is good. He will be just as sweet in disposition, 
 just as loyal of heart, and just as faithful as the higher 
 priced show-specimen. The sun of a Cairn Terrier, 
 whether he be a blue ribbon winner or not, rises and sets 
 with his master. There is no thought in his mind apart 
 from this human God whose wishes, pleasures, joys or 
 griefs are all that matter in the world. Kipling's beauti- 
 ful poem, "The Power of the Dog" seems surely to have 
 been written around a Cairn Terrier, so true is it of the 
 
 7 
 
8 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 way this little Scot winds himself about the heart of his 
 owner. 
 
 It is really a strange thing that this little dog should be 
 so able to attract people, for to a great many he is 
 "homely" in appearance. In my own experience, I have 
 often had occasion to see this proved! Visitors come 
 to the kennels to buy a Sealyham! They see the Cairns 
 in their yards or following me around, like the little 
 shadows they truly are, and, if they do not happen to be 
 familiar with the breed they ask, "What kind of a dog is 
 the homely little fellow?" A short time after, I may 
 notice that, while watching the two breeds at play, their 
 attention becomes gradually riveted on the Cairns. Often 
 they will yield to the fascination and ask to hold one, and 
 frequently the Cairn finds a new home in that manner. 
 Why, if the Cairn is so homely, does he win people so 
 persistently? Wherein lies his great attraction? I 
 answer that it lies in his "personality," that elusive Cairn 
 quality which had its birth high up in the rocky fast- 
 nesses of his misty island home and which has been 
 handed down, through countless generations from one 
 "wee earth dog" to another, never losing its glamour, 
 never losing its irresistible attraction! 
 
 There is a very striking characteristic of the Cairn 
 which I want to touch upon because it can easily be mis- 
 understood and lead to much disappointment ! I must go 
 back to his native land and his ancient history to make 
 my point! 
 
 As we have already seen, he was the working dog of 
 the Highland crofter, as necessary to his master as were 
 the cattle and the Shetland ponies. He was primarily a 
 worker, and rarely a pet. He grew as do the weeds, and 
 it was a case of the survival of the fittest, for if he got 
 sick, he died, or lived, according to his constitution. He 
 made his own bed, year in, year out, usually in the crevice 
 
THE CAIRN TERRIER AS A "PAL" 9 
 
 of a rock, protected by fragrant clumps of heather from 
 rain or sun. He never ventured into his master's hut, 
 even though his devotion to that master was loyal and 
 undying. 
 
 For years and years he lived like this, one generation 
 after another in the same way and then suddenly he was 
 transported into what one might almost call "civilized" 
 life! He was made to sleep under a roof, he was given 
 human love and companionship in place of the crofter's 
 undemonstrative appreciation of his worth as a worker. 
 He was fondled — even kissed! Imagine what a strange 
 new world it must have seemed ! And all this happened 
 only some twenty years ago — a day in comparison with 
 the countless ages that had gone before! 
 
 It does not need much imagination to realize that the 
 present day Cairn (and especially he who comes directly 
 from the Highlands), is still a comparatively wild 
 creature ! 
 
 I have a young dog with me at present who was taken 
 from his Highland home when quite a youngster. He 
 was made to live as a domestic pet and even now, after 
 three years, he dislikes being in a house and prefers to 
 eat his food out of doors ! 
 
 A realization of the newness of the Cairn to life as a 
 domestic companion will help people to understand the 
 characteristic I wish to mention, namely, his extreme 
 sensitiveness ! 
 
 A puppy in the nest shrinks at the first touch of a 
 human hand. A bitch expecting her young will dig out 
 an earth nest in preference to using her kennel or house 
 bed; and in all young Cairns it is necessary deliberately 
 to win their confidence and conquer their birdlike shyness. 
 
 The success of a Cairn as a pal lies in this first handling 
 and it is for this reason that there are many with whom 
 it takes months to make friends. Usually such dogs 
 
10 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 have been raised in big commercial kennels, cared for by 
 hired help, and shipped from show to show like so much 
 truck ! 
 
 The Cairn, raised thus, may make a better show dog 
 because he has become callous to noise and turmoil, and 
 the rarity of his keeper's company makes him eager to 
 show off well when he is handled. But neither he nor 
 his get make as satisfactory human companions as those 
 dogs who are raised in gentler surroundings. 
 
 Take the dog you have made your daily companion and 
 put him in the show ring! He will either be absolutely 
 indifferent or timid and shy! But put him in the open 
 field or in his own surroundings and in a second his tail 
 will be up, his ears erect, his muscles taut and his whole 
 expression one of keen alertness ! 
 
 Of course, regular teaching can accomplish the de- 
 sired effect in the ring, and then you will have a dog 
 who shows perfectly with eyes fixed on his master, and 
 with none of that hysterical capering around which marks 
 the hardened type of dog when he finds himself in the 
 company of humans. 
 
 In teaching a Cairn either house manners or anything 
 else, it is most important that he should never be whipped 
 or chastised in any way. His feelings are deeply hurt 
 by such treatment and, instead of learning his lesson, he 
 will associate it with his master's displeasure and become 
 petrified into stupidity. There is no dog in the world 
 easier to teach, if rightly handled, for he responds to 
 every tone of the voice and when he recognizes displeas- 
 ure he never forgets it. His whole heart is put into the 
 task of remembering not to bring back the tone that hurt 
 him. 
 
 As a puppy, he may likely forget once or twice, but it 
 is remarkable how even the tiniest fellow shows a keen 
 desire to please his master! 
 
in 
 
 o - 
 
 OJ o 
 
THE CAIRN TERRIER AS A "PAL" 11 
 
 There is no more cheerful companion in the world 
 than the Cairn, for his is such a care-free, happy-go- 
 lucky nature ! So long as his master is pleased with him, 
 he is absolutely happy, and he shows it in every inch of 
 his energetic little body! 
 
 As a child's pet, he has no equal, for he is not blessed 
 with **nerves"! His may be, and is, a sensitive nature, 
 responsive to every look and every mood of his owner, 
 but so long as he is where he belongs and with those he 
 loves, he is placid, good tempered, and full of play and 
 fun! 
 
 No child can tire him out and no child can ruffle his 
 calm. 
 
 He makes a good watch dog, for he is alert at the 
 slightest untoward sound and his sense of responsibility 
 towards his home is very much developed. 
 
 If he has been raised correctly and trained properly, 
 he is never a wanderer, for his master's home is the place 
 he loves best in the world, and he is really happy only 
 when constantly in the company of those to whom he 
 belongs. 
 
 That he is a real little sportsman is of course 
 undeniable ! 
 
 I have a brace of bitches in Virginia, who hunt regu- 
 larly, their quarry being coons, opossums, rabbits and 
 anything else that comes their way! They have proved 
 themselves to be absolutely fearless and game to the 
 death. 
 
 And herein lies the secret of the marvelous popularity 
 of the Cairn wherever he may go! He is small enough 
 to be an easy house dog even in a city apartment, and 
 yet at the same time, he is game enough and hard enough 
 to satisfy the most energetic of sportsmen! He is con- 
 tent to live, year in, year out, without the joys of country 
 life if it is necessary for him to do so, and yet he com- 
 
12 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 pares very favorably with any of the larger terrier breeds 
 as a farm dog. 
 
 When once anyone has owned a Cairn, there is no 
 other dog in the world to take his place ! What more can 
 one ask? 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 THE CAIRN TERRIER IN AMERICA 
 
 Although, as has previously been recorded, the Cairn 
 Terrier is the oldest of all the terrier breeds, he is a new- 
 comer in America. 
 
 In the year 1916 I began to attend dog shows in Amer- 
 ica and looked up the benches labeled "Cairn Terriers." 
 
 At no show in that year were there more than two or 
 three exhibits and they were sad looking specimens ! 
 
 I recollect that one had drop ears, which should have 
 disqualified her as a show type: another had a smooth 
 coat, huge "bat" ears and crooked front. A third looked 
 more like a Pomeranian on stilts than anything else, ex- 
 cept that she was quite short coated. 
 
 It was indeed an outrage that the American public 
 should have been shown such dogs as these under the 
 name of typical Cairn Terriers. Small wonder that the 
 breed made no impression and no progress in the country ! 
 
 At the Westminster Show in the year 1917, I exhibited 
 an imported terrier in the Miscellaneous Class and won 
 the blue with him. 
 
 He was the well known Champion Northern Nonpareil, 
 an exceedingly smart, sandy dog with dense black points 
 and heavy coat — totally unlike the dogs previously shown. 
 His appearance, wherever he went, created tremendous 
 interest and it was largely owing to his personal charm 
 and attractiveness that the Cairn as a breed jumped im- 
 mediately into popularity. 
 
 At the summer shows in that year, Cairn Terrier classes 
 
 13 
 
14 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 were given for the first time. Although they were rather 
 sparsely filled, the start was made and the dog's own per- 
 sonality did the rest! 
 
 In the following autumn, a Club was formed. It began 
 with only six members, not half of them owning a terrier 
 but interested nevertheless in his progress in a new land. 
 
 Now, in 1922, there is a membership roll of over sixty 
 and two most successful Specialty Shows have been held ! 
 
 Fanciers have been, and still are, handicapped by hav- 
 ing to import most of their breeding stock. This would 
 not be detrimental to the breed were it not for the fact 
 that nine out of ten of the breeders have to rely upon peo- 
 ple on the other side in the choice of the dogs. Of course 
 disappointments are frequent. 
 
 Progress in the fixing of type has been delayed because 
 dogs of the wrong type have been sent across and, faute 
 de mieux, have had to be used as breeders. As a result 
 of this conglomeration of types sent from abroad, Ameri- 
 cans who have never seen a Cairn Terrier in his native 
 land have been obliged to form their opinions as to what 
 a good dog should look like, by studying the imported 
 specimens and from hearsay. 
 
 A Standard of Points is a necessity but it is almost an 
 impossibility for anyone to learn a breed from paper 
 alone. To buy blindfolded, is not to help the breed. 
 
 Take for instance, the case of an imported dog for 
 which a ridiculously small price was paid. He was called 
 a "bargain." When he won at every show under almost 
 every Cairn judge in the country and became a Champion, 
 it was called "luck." 
 
 It may have been "luck" for his owner but for the 
 breed as a whole, at its present stage in America, it was a 
 calamity! GOOD dogs are not sold for next to nothing 
 in their own country! Where competition is keen, it is 
 the poor dogs that sell for a song. 
 
THE CAIRN TERRIER IN AMERICA 15 
 
 When it is a case of having to educate a public in the 
 type of dog required, it is entirely up to those who breed 
 and own the dogs, not to show any specimen unless they 
 know from their own knowledge that the dog is a high 
 class one. In this way we shall follow the better course 
 — ''Quality rather than quantity." 
 
 As far as the general buying public is concerned, the 
 Cairn is standing firmly on his own four feet and will 
 continue to do so. 
 
 It is well known that people who go out to buy a "pal" 
 want a dog which pleases their individual taste and they 
 do not care at all what his chances in the show ring might 
 be. 
 
 Taking into consideration the length of time the breed 
 has been in America and the number of dogs in the coun- 
 try, it is a fact that the Cairn is in greater demand than 
 any other breed of dog at the present time. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 STANDARD ADOPTED BY THE CAIRN TERRIER CLUB 
 OF AMERICA 
 
 1. General Appearance — Chief characteristic: a foxy- 
 head, which should be small, but in proportion to 
 body and well furnished with hair on forehead. Dog 
 to be small, shaggy, hardy, active and game. To be 
 strongly, but not heavily built. To stand well for- 
 ward on forefeet. To have strong hindquarters and 
 to be deep in rib. Coat to be harsh, resisting rain. 
 
 2. Skull — Broad in proportion, with a decided indenta- 
 tion between the eyes. 
 
 3. Muzzle — Powerful, yet not heavy. Jaw very strong, 
 with large teeth, neither overshot nor undershot. 
 Nose black. 
 
 4. Eyes — Set wide apart. To be medium in size, dark 
 and keen. To be rather sunken, with shaggy eye- 
 brows. 
 
 5. Ears — Small, pointed, widely set, well carried and 
 erect. 
 
 6. Tail — Short, well furnished with hair but not feath- 
 ery. To be carried gayly, but not to curl down 
 towards back. 
 
 7. Body — Compact. Straight back, well sprung, deep 
 ribs, strong sinews and very strong hindquarters. 
 Back to be medium in length and well coupled. 
 
 16 
 
THE STANDARD ADOPTED 17 
 
 8. Shoulders, Legs, and Feet — A sloping shoulder and 
 a medium length of leg, good, but not too heavy bone. 
 Forelegs not to be out at elbows, but forefeet may be 
 slightly turned out. Forefeet larger than hind feet. 
 Thin, ferrety feet objectionable. Pads to be thick 
 and strong. Legs to be covered with hard hair. 
 
 9. Coat — Very important. Must be double, with pro- 
 fuse, harsh but not coarse, outer coat and short, close, 
 furry undercoat. Head to be well furnished. Color 
 any, except white. Black points typical. 
 
 10. Weight — Dogs, twelve to fifteen pounds. Bitches, 
 eleven to thirteen pounds. 
 
 Faults 
 Muzzle — Overshot or undershot. 
 Eyes — Too prominent and large. 
 
 Ears — Too large or rounded at tip, or too heavily 
 furnished with hair. 
 
 Coat — Silky or curly. A slight wave permissible. 
 
 Scale of Points 
 
 General Appearance (size and coat) 30 
 
 Skull 5 
 
 Muzzle 10 
 
 Eyes 5 
 
 Ears 5 
 
 Body 20 
 
 Shoulders, Legs and Feet 20 
 
 Tail 5 
 
 100 
 
18 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 ■'^■•.. 
 
 Disqualifications 
 
 Flesh colored nose. 
 
 Dogs weighing more than fifteen or (except puppies) 
 less than twelve pounds. Bitches weighing more than 
 fourteen, or (except puppies) less than eleven pounds. 
 
.^^^^^ ^.^^.-.^^'^li^S^^-'-.^^^M^^Mi:- f^^Mfrm^A^ 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 THE STANDARD DISCUSSED 
 
 The opening words of our Standard give us the "hall 
 mark" of the breed, namely, "a foxy head." The head 
 should be small but in proportion to the size of the dog 
 and should be well furnished with hair on forehead. The 
 rather soft "top knot" is quite characteristic of the breed 
 and if the general outlook of the dog is keen and terrier 
 like, it will in no way serve to make him look "soft." 
 
 The skull should be broad in proportion and flat father 
 than domed, with a strong indentation between the eyes. 
 It should taper well towards the nose, which should be 
 sharp. This latter is a most important point, for it is 
 another characteristic of the breed. We do not want a 
 heavy muzzle, yet we want a powerful one, and therefore 
 we should see that the face is well filled up under the 
 eyes, which is where the jaw power lies. 
 
 The foreface of a good Cairn should be short, — shorter, 
 perhaps, than the skull. 
 
 The eyes, placed rather far apart, should be sunken 
 and of medium size and, in my opinion, very dark, in 
 order to convey that exceedingly keen look which a light 
 eye never can. 
 
 The ears should be held erect, should be small, pointed 
 and widely set on the head. 
 
 The tail, for beauty, should be as short as possible (but 
 of course undocked) carried gayly but not in a curl. The 
 latter tendency is seldom seen in a very short tail but I 
 think it well to remind my readers, that, above all we want 
 
 19 
 
20 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 a working terrier and therefore 'we should not lay too 
 much stress on such minor points as tail carriage and 
 size of ears. 
 
 In coming to the body of the Cairn we come to the most 
 important part of his anatomy as far as his work is con- 
 cerned. That this body must be compact is reasonable 
 and that his back should be of "medium length" is sound. 
 A very short back gives a dog a stiff look, and although it 
 may be pretty, it is far better for a working dog to be of 
 a medium length. I would, however, prefer to see too 
 short a back rather than the other extreme, because, in the 
 latter case, a dog loses a great deal of strength, especially 
 digging power, and he cannot be so well-coupled. 
 
 His body should have a very decided "tuck up" and his 
 chest, though narrow, should be deep, with front legs dead 
 straight and set on well arched feet, thickly padded. 
 
 Hindquarters should be as strong as possible and hocks 
 well bent, giving a suggestion of power. 
 
 As regards the question of bone, it is not desirable to 
 see a Cairn with heavy bone, for, in such a dog, the type 
 is usually too coarse and the agile, active look becomes 
 less pronounced. Nor do we, however, want a light 
 boned terrier. The happy medium must be found for our 
 ideal. 
 
 In watching Cairns in the ring, one wants to see the 
 winning dog looking alert, active and agile above all else 
 so far as general appearance is concerned. He should 
 carry himself proudly, with head up and body thrown 
 well forward on his forelegs. If one sees such a dog 
 matched against one of the heavily boned, coarser type, 
 whose movements are more ponderous and whose action 
 is slower, one is reminded at once of the difference be- 
 tween the highly bred hackney pony and the cart horse! 
 
 Our ideal dog should have a beautifully free movement, 
 suggestive of the great out-of-doors, and indicating a 
 
THE STANDARD DISCUSSED 21 
 
 readiness for immediate action. He should carry with 
 him a high look of breeding and his "outlook" should be 
 a combination of three attributes, alertness, activity, and 
 rugged hardiness. 
 
 The coat, as we have seen before, is a most important 
 point, and should go far in placing a dog in the show 
 ring. No Cairn wearing an open coat should have a 
 chance to win, for he would not have a chance to keep dry 
 in a Highland storm, nor should a Cairn be shown with- 
 out the profuse coat, which gives the shaggy look desired. 
 The dogs who are shown in scanty jacket should be penal- 
 ized much more keenly than heretofore by the judges for 
 they are not in right condition. To my mind, looking at 
 it from the viewpoint of the working dog, it is far better 
 to see a Cairn with a long, close, heavy coat which handles 
 softer than is perhaps desirable, than to see one carrying 
 a short open jacket however hard the hair may be. 
 
 My reason for preferring the first type of coat is based 
 on the effect water has on it compared with the effect 
 noticed on the second type. Pour water on the heavier 
 coat and one sees that in one shake the dog is dry with- 
 out any moisture penetrating to the skin, but pour it on 
 the other type of coat and, unless there is the desirable 
 fur under jacket, the dog is wet right through. 
 
 I have also noticed, in kennel fights that those dogs who 
 carry the long heavy jackets never get the wounds, be- 
 cause their adversary's teeth apparently cannot penetrate 
 to the skin. But the shorter coat, however hard the hair, 
 affords much less protection from teeth and claws. If 
 you apply this to the dog at work in the fox*s lair, it is 
 easy to see that thickness and length is even more desir- 
 able as an armor, than actual harshness of hair. 
 
 In the Standard black points are called typical. 
 This is about as far as one should go in that respect. 
 From a fancier's point of view black points improve the 
 
22 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 looks of a Cairn a hundred per cent, especially when seen 
 in contrast with silver, sandy or red coloring, but as one 
 must be on one's guard against looking at the dog entirely 
 from a show point, I consider it advisable not to lay too 
 much stress on any purely decorative feature. The black 
 points do have, however, one great advantage which is 
 not to be despised, and that is, that they go far to giving 
 a Cairn that "wicked" look — ^the term one hears so often 
 used in Scotland to describe a good specimen. The con- 
 trast offered emphasizes keenness and general rugged- 
 ness of appearance, but goes no further. 
 
 The last point in our Standard is weight and this has 
 long been a bone of contention both here and in Great 
 Britain. 
 
 In Scotland, the small dog is preferred, in England the 
 reverse. Up North, fifteen pounds is regarded as the 
 limit weight for dogs and thirteen pounds for bitches. 
 We do not want a toy terrier, so we should look askance 
 at any specimens weighing less than ten pounds but 
 neither do we want a dog any heavier than the limit 
 weight. In America we have seen both sizes in good 
 individuals and I think I may say that the smaller terrier 
 has found the greatest favor. 
 
 We must not forget that our Cairn has to live up to 
 the name of being "the smallest sporting terrier in the 
 world" while at the same time we must keep a level head 
 and not allow ourselves to be carried away by fads and 
 fancies. Let us just stick closely to the weight mentioned 
 as desirable in our Standard and we cannot go far wrong. 
 A dog of correct weight cannot be either too small or too 
 large. This is obvious, so why the continual need for 
 discussion and controversy? 
 
 Our Standard does not call for many disqualifications, 
 but of course we should recognize the same faults as in 
 other breeds of terrier. We should penalize a dog for an 
 
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THE STANDARD DISCUSSED 23 
 
 over-, or under-shot mouth, handicap him for a light eye, 
 and make a straight front and sound shoulders absolutely 
 necessary in a winning dog. 
 
 I hope we shall never allow our terriers to be shown 
 as the professional man shows most of the other terrier 
 breeds, holding up their rears when the judge looks 
 towards that end and lifting the dog's weight off his feet 
 with taut lead when the judge is looking for faulty fronts. 
 
 A Cairn should be able to stand pat on his four legs 
 without any help. He should be able to stand naturally 
 on his own merits, or else be put out of the show ring. 
 If he is not good enough to win as Nature made him, then 
 he should take a back seat, for his species must not de- 
 generate into a "manufactured" breed or he will lose 
 every bit of his character and also his birthright as the 
 working terrier of the Scottish Highlands. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 THE SEALYHAM TERRIER 
 
 In Wales there is a small hamlet called Sealy and this 
 little place is the original home of the terrier we call the 
 Sealyham. 
 
 A certain Captain Edwardes is credited with being its 
 originator, but no one has yet put forth much convincing 
 evidence as to how he produced the dog. 
 
 One theory is that the white Bull Terrier was used 
 with the Dandie Dinmont and the American Sealyham 
 Terrier Club has apparently adopted this idea, since it 
 calls the "ideal" dog, "a combination of these two." 
 
 But a niece of the late Captain Edwardes declares that 
 her uncle never owned a Dandie Dinmont! 
 
 People claim to see a likeness to the Bull Terrier in the 
 breadth of skull of the Sealyham, but there are other 
 breeds which have just as broad heads, and the resem- 
 blance, if there is one, certainly goes no further, except 
 in color. 
 
 The Dandie Dinmont has a large head, is low to the 
 ground, and long bodied. But, again, so are many other 
 breeds. The Dandie is never a white dog! 
 
 The Basset, for instance, a dog of French origin, shows 
 a distinct resemblance to our present day Sealyham even 
 in color. 
 
 In Watson's Dog Book, there is a picture of four 
 rough-haired Bassets, and except for the long ears, they 
 might well be body-marked Sealyhams. 
 
 The Basset was first benched in England in the year 
 
 24 
 
"The embodiment of power and determination in a 
 
 terrier." A son of Brockholt Bronx, 
 
 showing no exaggerations. 
 
 Champion Hemlock Hill Boy Scout, American bred 
 
 son of Cliampion Ivo Caradox and himself 
 
 a sire of winners. 
 
THE SEALYHAM TERRIER 25 
 
 1800. It does not seem unreasonable to think that they 
 might easily have been brought over to the Welsh coast 
 from France before that, and might even have become 
 so common as to lose their original name among the 
 natives of Wales. 
 
 In any case, it seems much more reasonable to look 
 for the original cross of a dog who never throws colored 
 stock, in dogs whose color shows predominantly white. 
 
 That the good old-fashioned Jack Russell terrier is 
 largely responsible for the Sealyham appears to be one of 
 the least complicated and most logical theories set forth. 
 
 In many strains — and that in comparatively recent days 
 — the modern fox terrier has undoubtedly been used 
 illegitimately. 
 
 This cross may well be looked upon as the "curse" of 
 the breed, for it causes endless disappointment to breeders 
 and certainly has held the breed back in the establishment 
 of type. 
 
 In England, at the present day, type is getting much 
 more fixed among selected specimens, but a glance behind 
 the scenes, at all the dogs being bred, shows there is still 
 a great deal of work ahead for those who hope to get the 
 Sealyham to breed true to the type that is now wanted. 
 
 The difficulty up to now, has been to get enough good 
 dogs and bitches as breeding stock. There will be 
 as many poor specimens as good ones whelped as long 
 as a poor type of bitch has to be used with even the best 
 specimen of winning dog — perhaps this winning dog was, 
 himself, the one "flyer" in a very indifferent litter. 
 
 There is only ONE way to breed level litters of one 
 type, and that is, by breeding good individuals together 
 and keeping this up for several generations. Just as soon 
 as a dog or bitch who is slightly "off" type is allowed 
 into the breeding stock, progress is delayed for several 
 generations. 
 
26 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 This is especially true of any breed that originated in a 
 definite cross. 
 
 That "blood will tell" is sound. In a breed such as the 
 Sealyham, the very truth of this saying makes it the more 
 imperative that breeders should select their individuals 
 and strains carefully. 
 
 Peer Gynt, Mariner's Peer, Huntsman, and many other 
 **pillars" of the breed are so far removed from what the 
 Standard requires in the Sealyham of today, that we are 
 bound to breed out their influence if we hope to establish 
 the type now desired in the show ring. 
 
 In endeavoring to do this we have, in a great many 
 cases, arrived at breeding a most grotesque looking 
 animal. 
 
 Exaggerated heads, absurdly low legs, and ridiculously 
 short backs kill any idea of proportion and good balance 
 in a dog but it is encouraging to note that, in England at 
 least, the men who use the Sealyham as a worker and 
 like him as such, are agitating against such speci- 
 mens. 
 
 The work of the Sealyham has always been primarily 
 badger digging. The idea of breeding him to one type, 
 was in order to perfect a dog who would be suitable for 
 this work. 
 
 That breeders are getting very far from this starting 
 point may be seen in many of the present day winners ! 
 
 The badger is a large, powerful creature, and one of 
 the most vicious fighters of the brute creation. 
 
 He lives underground and the dog that has to tackle 
 him must be of a special build. 
 
 He must be a good digger, a good "stayer" and a good 
 fighter. 
 
 He has to fight underground, therefore he must not be 
 over large, but neither must he be a small dog, for his 
 enemy is a heavy brute and he will require substance and 
 
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THE SEALYHAM TERRIER 27 
 
 power if he is to be able to hold on when he once gets a 
 
 In cramped quarters underground, it is necessary for 
 him to have fairly short legs, otherwise he would have 
 to be in a crouching position and consequently lose both 
 strength and agility. 
 
 His greatest asset must be his ability to move and turn 
 quickly. At times, he may have to turn and spring at 
 the same moment, so he must have flexibility of body, 
 with powerful hindquarters, in order that he may be able 
 to stand his ground firmly either when he is digging or 
 when he is "drawing" his foe. 
 
 A powerful jaw, with immensely strong teeth, are 
 necessities in his work. Gameness, tenacity, and a cour- 
 age that never falters must be the chief attributes of his 
 character. 
 
 This is the Sealyham explained from the viewpoint of 
 his work! 
 
 In a good specimen it should be easy to grasp, by look- 
 ing at him, whether he is a working terrier. As soon as 
 his work is explained, it should again be easy to under- 
 stand the significance of his type and general appearance. 
 
 It should not be hard to see why his jaws must be pow- 
 erful and heavy rather than pointed, his body long, rather 
 than short, his legs low and heavily boned rather than 
 high, and his chest deep and broad rather than narrow. 
 
 The abominable "fox terrier" looking dog so often seen 
 and called a Sealyham is a dog which has no merit what- 
 ever. He has none of the uniqueness of type so attrac- 
 tive in the Sealyham ; he has nothing to recommend him ; 
 and yet he is raised by the dozen and sold to ignorant 
 buyers as "a Sealyham." 
 
 No wonder that people who have seen such speci- 
 mens look upon the Sealyham breed as "a kind of fox 
 terrier !" 
 
28 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 As a matter of fact, a really good Sealyham bears no 
 resemblance to a fox terrier, except in color, his type 
 being quite unique in dogdom. 
 
 In character and disposition, the normal Sealyham is 
 most satisfactory, and pleasing. 
 
 He is not a large dog therefore he is desirable in a city. 
 
 In little bulk he has a great many traits of character 
 in common with the really large breeds of dogs, and thus 
 he appeals to those who prefer a big dog for choice, but 
 owing to lack of space cannot indulge their taste. 
 
 He is essentially what might be called a "big little 
 dog" for his frame is heavy, his bone massive, and his 
 head large. 
 
 While he gives a sense of size, this is not really present 
 so far as his actual inches go. 
 
 But he is great hearted and solid in his nature, not in 
 the least "rampageous" and being without "nerves" he 
 makes an ideal dog for a child. 
 
 He is essentially a home lover if raised correctly and if 
 treated well and although ever a hunter by nature, he pre- 
 fers to hunt in company with his owners rather than 
 alone. 
 
 As he gives himself whole heartedly to his family, and 
 has a keen sense of responsibility towards them, he makes 
 a fine watch dog. 
 
 If he should happen to consider it necessary to defend 
 his home or his master, his attacks would be very savage 
 and it would be far from easy to make him release his 
 tenacious hold of any enemy. 
 
 At the same time he can be taught to discriminate and 
 can easily be made to understand the kind of person per- 
 mitted on his owner's property. 
 
 He is intelligent to a high degree and enjoys learning 
 tricks, showing great pride in his accomplishments. 
 
 His is not a nature that enjoys much petting or 
 
THE SEALYHAM TERRIER 29 
 
 fondling, but the way he follows his master around and 
 watches eagerly for any signs of affection and apprecia- 
 tion, shows clearly enough that he relies on love for his 
 happiness. 
 
 By no means a *'pet" dog, but in every way a perfect 
 "pal," he has won the hearts of all who know him and, 
 given time, he will without doubt be as popular in Amer- 
 ica as he is in Great Britain. 
 
 Standard of Points of the Sealyham Terrier 
 (As adopted by the American Sealyham Terrier Club) 
 
 The Sealyham should be the embodiment of power 
 and determination in a Terrier, of extraordinary sub- 
 stance for his size, yet free from clumsiness. The ideal 
 being the combination of the Dandie Dinmont with a 
 Bull Terrier of twenty pounds, otherwise, any resem- 
 blance to a Fox Terrier in either make, shape, character 
 or expression should be heavily penalized. 
 
 Head — The skull, unusually wide between the ears 
 (this being a characteristic of both the Dandie and the 
 Bull Terrier), slightly rounded and domed with practi- 
 cally no stop, and a light indentation running down be- 
 tween the brows. Long, powerful, level jaws, wider and 
 heavier than in the Fox Terrier, the upper finishing in a 
 large black nose with wide nostrils. 
 
 Body — Comparatively short between back of neck and 
 set on of tail, but of good length from the junction of the 
 humerus and shoulder blades to the back of the hind- 
 quarters, thus giving great flexibility. Very deep, well 
 ribbed up with comparatively wide front, the chest let 
 well down between the fore legs giving large heart and 
 lung room (the latter being very important for a dog that 
 has to stay long underground). 
 
 Coat — Dense undercoat, the top coat being hard and 
 
30 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 wiry, considerably longer than that a Wire Haired Fox 
 Terrier is shown with, especially on head, throat and 
 neck. 
 
 Ears — Of medium size, set on low and carried closely 
 against the cheek. This is a very important point, as high 
 setting and forward carriage gives a Fox Terrier charac- 
 ter and expression and is usually indicative of that blood. 
 
 Hindquarters — Wide and massive with strong second 
 thighs and hocks extremely well bent. 
 
 Legs — Short, heavily boned, the fore legs as straight 
 as is consistent with the body being well let down between 
 them. 
 
 Feet — Of medium size, round with thick pads and very 
 strong nails. The forefeet being larger though not quite 
 so long as the hind. 
 
 Eyes — Set somewhat wide apart, of medium size and 
 very dark. 
 
 Teeth — Strong, large and square, the canines fitting 
 closely between each other (undershot or much overshot 
 jaws should be a disqualification). 
 
 Neck — Of medium length, but extremely strong and 
 muscular. 
 
 Tail — Docked and carried gayly. 
 
 Color — All white, or white with lemon, tan, brindle, or 
 badger-pied markings on head and ears. (Black is ob- 
 jectionable, even on head and ears. A large black spot on 
 the body should almost be a disqualification as showing 
 Fox Terrier blood.) 
 
 Size — Dogs between 9 inches and 12 inches at the 
 shoulder, bitches somewhat smaller. Weight, no crite- 
 rion, as a 13 inch dog might weigh only 14 lbs., and a 10 
 inch dog might weigh 24 lbs. 
 
This Sealyham is every inch a "worker," but has 
 the fox terrier expression. 
 
 A typical example of the short backed Sealyham. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 THE STANDARD DISCUSSED 
 
 The opening paragraph of the Standard as published 
 by the Sealyham Terrier Club of America, describes the 
 kind of dog which is wanted, and forever banishes the 
 light boned "fox" terrier type. 
 
 "The embodiment of power, and of extraordinary sub- 
 stance for his size!" 
 
 There is no necessity to go further than this to under- 
 stand that one must have a dog of good size! 
 
 How rare it is to see a small Sealyham that gives any 
 real idea of power! 
 
 Recently, in England, shows have been giving classes 
 for dogs "under 18 lbs." in order to cater to those fanciers 
 who are up in arms against the big dog weighing more 
 than this. 
 
 It is interesting to note that the big winners, under the 
 majority of judges, are seldom eligible for these special 
 classes ! 
 
 One judge, who had put up one of the larger dogs, 
 answered, when criticized, that although he was not an 
 advocate of the big Sealyham, yet he could not put up 
 a dog of small size until he was shown one of substance 
 and type. 
 
 In order to keep substance in a breed, it is necessary 
 that the stud dogs have size, power and general masculin- 
 ity. But if none of the winners are to weigh over 18 
 lbs., where shall we find the sires — provided it is admitted 
 that the breed must not deteriorate into light boned dogs? 
 
 31 
 
32 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 I 
 
 Few people in America know enough about the differ- 
 ent strains of dogs and the individuals in the various 
 pedigrees, to dare risk breeding to a dog unless he is a 
 winner and yet such dogs are by no means necessarily 
 successful sires of level stock. 
 
 A big winner may be the only puppy in his litter who 
 was worth a cent! His dam or sire may have been a 
 poor specimen, so he himself was just a "flyer" by 
 chance. Such a dog could not be expected to throw con- 
 sistently good stock even when mated to a good bitch. 
 He would undoubtedly throw back in part to the indif- 
 ferent individuals from which he sprang. 
 
 Therefore, it is imperative that breeders mate by selec- 
 tion (and careful selection) of not only actual sire and 
 dam but of the individual dogs back of them. 
 
 Breeders are so inclined to make a fetish of some one 
 point, such as a large head, and breed with only that in 
 mind. 
 
 The present craze for short backs is also dangerous to 
 the breed as a whole. 
 
 The only real Sealyham is one whose general "outlook'* 
 shows perfect balance, where every separate part fits into 
 a perfect whole. 
 
 In America real lovers of the breed are getting very 
 tired of hearing the breed called "grotesque," It should 
 not be possible to apply such a word to the dog, but when 
 one sees some of the so-called "good specimens" going 
 around, it is not surprising that the general public, espe- 
 cially at shows, ridicules the breed. 
 
 The best remedy for this state of affairs, is for breeders 
 to remember, first of all, that the dog is a worker and 
 secondly that they must use the Standard as their guide 
 and banish all individual fads and fancies. 
 
 A huge head is not called for by the Standard, but 
 merely one whose skull is "unusually wide between the 
 
THE STANDARD DISCUSSED 33 
 
 ears," indicating, not so much the Bull Terrier and Dandie 
 Dinmont (with due respect to the Club), but brain room. 
 
 What use would a working dog be, however physically 
 perfect, if he were devoid of brain? 
 
 ''Long, powerful, level jaws" are called for in the 
 Standard, but here again there is no hint that a great big 
 head, out of all proportion to the dog's size, is to be 
 desired. 
 
 As a worker an unbalanced dog would be totally un- 
 suitable. 
 
 Regarding the craze for short backs, it is absolutely 
 unjustifiable. 
 
 In the American Standard, a dog to be perfect must 
 have a body "comparatively short between back of neck 
 and set on of tail, but of good length from the junction 
 of the humerus and shoulder blades to the back of the 
 hindquarters, thus giving great flexibility." 
 
 The English Standard definitely states that the dog 
 should have "a long back," and the Sealyham and Badger 
 Digging Association demands a "moderately long back." 
 
 Unless breeders are going to invent a dog after their 
 own individual fancies, they have no right to put out one 
 who very definitely does not come up to Standard re- 
 quirements. 
 
 Dogs having very short, flat backs cannot have the ac- 
 tive, free movement which is necessary in a good working 
 dog. A slightly arched loin, with a moderately long back 
 will allow of a free, straightforward movement of the 
 hind legs. 
 
 The short-backed type usually has a strutting, stiff 
 action which is neither graceful nor desirable. 
 
 Soft coats, even in winning dogs, are altogether too 
 common and this may be why so many dogs in America 
 are shown stripped down to the length of jacket favored 
 by fox terrier fanciers. 
 
34 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 It is especially mentioned in the Standard that the top 
 coat should be "considerably longer than that with which 
 a Wire-Haired Fox Terrier is shown, especially on head, 
 throat and neck." 
 
 And yet, in spite of these explicit instructions, how sel- 
 dom is a Sealyham shown with such a jacket ! 
 
 In the majority of cases, insult is added to injury by 
 leaving a long-flowing whisker at the end of a clean skull ! 
 
 What a comfort and joy these whiskers are to a great 
 many fanciers ! Like charity, they cover a multitude of 
 sins and they may be used to give the dog the appearance 
 of a very powerful, strong jaw and a lowness to ground 
 which in reality he does not possess ! 
 
 To the man who knows, these whiskers merely indi- 
 cate a long, silky or else woolly coat which cannot be al- 
 lowed to grow out to the desirable length because it would 
 show its softness in spite of a plentiful use of chalk ! 
 
 A hard coated dog may have a certain amount of 
 whisker but it is seldom profuse and never could be made 
 very much of as far as effect goes. 
 
 A thick skin and a hard coat always go together, and 
 both are absolutely necessary in a worker. 
 
 In the American Standard it is said that the placing of 
 the ear of a Sealyham is *'a very important point." As 
 a matter of fact, if the dog is a typical specimen it will 
 usually be found that the ear carriage is correct and the 
 ear well placed on the head. The "high setting and for- 
 ward carriage" does not only give Fox-Terrier charac- 
 ter and expression but it is seldom apparent in any dog 
 unless he shows Fox-Terrier type throughout, in which 
 case he should not have a chance to get as far as the 
 judging of his ears in the show ring! 
 
 Another tendency to the exaggerations we have men- 
 tioned before, can be seen in show dogs whose legs are 
 so short that they cannot move with any freedom. 
 
THE STANDARD DISCUSSED 35 
 
 That the legs should be short is sound, but there is a 
 vast difference between sensible lowness to ground and 
 the "cripples" one sometimes sees! 
 
 It is desirable to note that the Standard says that it is 
 necessary for the fore legs to be "as straight as is consist- 
 ent with the body being well let down between them." 
 
 This is a very important point! In an underground 
 worker it is necessary that he have "large heart and lung 
 room," therefore his chest must be broad and deep. 
 
 The English standard calls for "a neck set on sloping 
 shoulders" therefore if the legs are to be short and ribs 
 well sprung, the front legs must be slightly curved to 
 enable them free action. 
 
 It is impossible on this account to expect to find in the 
 Sealyham a front such as is desired in a Fox Terrier. Let 
 there be as much straightness of front as possible but do 
 not let it be considered such an important point that a 
 broad chest, and a deep brisket are sacrificed to it! 
 
 Under the heading of "color" the American Sealyham 
 Terrier Club in its Standard makes black markings "even 
 on head and ears" objectionable while it wishes to dis- 
 qualify a large black spot on the body. 
 
 It is admitted that a Standard should describe perfec- 
 tion in a breed but it should also take into account the use 
 of its dog in the world and avoid fads. 
 
 The idea of disqualifying a working terrier on account 
 of black markings or a spot on its body is not sound. 
 Not only because such markings do not deter the dog 
 from his work but in the case of the Sealyham there is 
 no positive proof that they do indicate fox terrier blood. 
 It is a fact that a body mark is often seen on a terrier 
 whose type is absolutely true, and the same may be said 
 of black head markings. 
 
 Fox terrier blood shows itself more strongly in more 
 important points than those of color. It only becomes 
 
36 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 the fad of an individual if otherwise excellent specimens 
 are handicapped in the show ring on account of a spot 
 on body or black head markings. 
 
 At present the greatest weakness of the breed in 
 America is the lack of really high-class bitches as matrons. 
 
 Level litters are rare, because of the prevalence in the 
 idea that the exaggerated dog is desirable as a stud, and 
 level litters are absolutely necessary to progress. 
 
 It would be better to breed all litters level in type, even 
 if that type is not, in the first or second generation, per- 
 fect, than to keep on breeding a number of litters con- 
 taining one good dog and the rest disappointments. 
 
 Along these lines, a greater percentage of good dogs 
 will eventually materialize and that is what is required 
 in America, at the present time, and should be the first 
 consideration of every one interested. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 ON BUYING A DOG 
 
 There is a right and a wrong way of doing everything 
 in this world, even in buying a dog ! 
 
 With so many breeds, from which to choose, it is not 
 surprising that a great many wise people often take 
 months to make their final decision. 
 
 At the same time, many dogs are so. obviously un- 
 suited to certain conditions of living that they can be dis- 
 missed very promptly. For instance, it would be folly to 
 buy a Great Dane or St. Bernard for a city apartment, 
 just as it would be equally foolish to buy a Pomeranian 
 or a Chihuahua for a farm dog. 
 
 But, even with such obvious restrictions, there is a wide 
 choice for the person who has no particular leaning 
 towards any one breed. 
 
 The Sealyham and Cairn Terriers are equally suitable, 
 either for town or country and, if the prospective buyer 
 has no personal preference between the two breeds, he 
 may safely let his choice rest on the individual attractions 
 of the dogs he may see. 
 
 If they are healthy, well-bred specimens, raised in a 
 kennel of good repute, he may let his fancy dictate the 
 choice and may rest assured that he will be satisfied with 
 the result. 
 
 The question of price would not be likely to make one 
 breed more suitable than the other, for both have about 
 the same market value at the present time. 
 
 37 
 
38 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 Both are fetching good figures and have been doing so 
 
 steadily, during the past four or five years. 
 
 The demand far exceeds the supply, and, so long as this 
 condition exists, prices will remain up. 
 
 Conditions of the English market are bound to affect 
 these two breeds over here, for the American bred supply 
 is inadequate and if breeders are obliged to import either 
 their breeding stock or their sale stock and pay big prices 
 for them on the other side, they are naturally bound to 
 ask a reasonable profit for themselves, keeping prices high. 
 
 In some other breeds, longer established in this coun- 
 try, such conditions do not have to be considered and 
 stock can therefore sell lower but until Cairns and Sealy- 
 hams get more common and less difficult to obtain, buyers 
 must be prepared to pay a good price for even an ordinary 
 specimen. 
 
 There are so very many admirers of both breeds who 
 would rather have a poor specimen than none at all, that 
 the dogs who are not good enough to be called "show 
 specimens" are quickly bought up and consequently very 
 hard to get. 
 
 I do not wish to discourage anyone but I think it is 
 well for prospective buyers to realize the condition of 
 the market and realize also why they are asked "fancy" 
 prices for these two breeds as compared with prices asked 
 for other kinds of dogs. 
 
 If a would-be buyer has gone the rounds of the specialty 
 kennels without finding anything to suit him, let him 
 pick out the kennel with which he would prefer to do 
 business, and let him give it his order. 
 
 A puppy may be booked when "in the nest" in many 
 cases for a far lower figure than one could be bought, at 
 say four months, and, while such a purchase is somewhat 
 of a gamble, it is well to remember that the buyer stands 
 
ON BUYING A DOG 39 
 
 to win as well as lose — the puppy chosen so young might 
 easily turn out to be the pick of the litter! 
 
 Prices in such cases are usually based on delivery at 
 eight weeks, but most kennels will agree to keep him as 
 a boarder after that age, till he is old enough to suit his 
 purchaser. 
 
 While a puppy of this age is more care at the begin- 
 ning than an older dog, yet there is no doubt but that he 
 is more satisfactory in the end to anyone who is willing 
 to undertake him. 
 
 In buying a puppy before he is weaned, no one can 
 foretell in the slightest degree how he may develop as 
 regards "points," but a great deal of the financial risk 
 may be minimized to the buyer when he deals with a 
 kennel of good reputation, for such a place will hold the 
 reserve deposit money as a temporary payment depending 
 upon whether the particular puppy chosen lives or dies 
 before he has reached his eighth week of life. 
 
 There is no doubt that the general public should be 
 taught to look upon the buying of a dog as a "sport." 
 Too many people go into the dog market as they would 
 to buy a hat or an umbrella ! They are prepared to take 
 no chances and seem often to expect the seller to guaran- 
 tee a dog even after it has left his care! Such an atti- 
 tude is absurd and unfair! 
 
 Unscrupulous dealers are largely responsible for the 
 distrust shown by a great many people when they come 
 to buy a dog, but the remedy really lies in the hands of 
 the prospective buyer for he should not venture to deal 
 with any kennel unless he has, as I have said before, in- 
 vestigated its reputation for honesty and healthy stock. 
 
 Another thing to consider is that after a dog has been 
 purchased and taken home, too many people are ignorant 
 of the very first principles of caring for it and as a re- 
 
40 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 suit the animal falls off in condition and health, perhaps 
 catching some disease as the result of a badly nourished 
 condition. It is obviously grossly unfair to hold the 
 breeder or seller of the dog responsible for such happen- 
 ings! 
 
 A puppy which is raised rightly will mature into a far 
 better specimen (even though he may not be a blue ribbon 
 winner) than the one who has been brought up in hap- 
 hazard fashion. 
 
 Take two puppies from the same litter, in the same con- 
 dition when sold and put one of them with an owner who 
 takes the trouble to learn how to care for him properly 
 and goes to great trouble over his health, and give the 
 other to someone who leaves his upbringing to servants 
 who, though they mean well, do not happen to have had 
 any "doggy" experience; and the difference in these two 
 dogs when they are two years old (if the latter animal 
 survives so long) will be astonishing. I have seen this 
 myself many times ! 
 
 And so, in buying a dog, whether puppy or adult, first 
 of all, be sure that you are making no mistake in regard 
 to the kind of kennel with which you propose to deal. 
 When you visit it, look at all the dogs, note the way the 
 dogs are housed and cared for, pay great attention to the 
 attitude of the dogs towards their owner and vice versa. 
 
 The kennel that is run in slip-shod fashion, that is un- 
 kempt and "smelly," can never produce the right kind of 
 dog to buy for a "pal." 
 
 As a child that is raised in a dirty slum, amid rough 
 surroundings, could never be expected to adapt himself 
 satisfactorily to gentle company, neither should a dog, 
 raised in an atmosphere of indifference and neglect, be 
 expected to develop into a perfect companion. 
 
 An out and out "cur" dog would make a better pal than 
 a dog raised in the wrong kind of kennel ! 
 
ON BUYING A DOG 41 
 
 I feel very strongly on this point because I have been 
 in the position of a buyer just as I now am in the position 
 of a seller and I have learnt by former experience that 
 it is a far better policy in the end to pay a bigger price to 
 the kennel who spares neither trouble nor expense in the 
 care of its dogs and has therefore to charge more to meet 
 the necessary "overhead" expenses entailed, than to pay 
 less for a dog which has literally grown up like the pro- 
 verbial weed ! 
 
 The best food in meat and biscuits, costs money ; sani- 
 tary quarters with everything up-to-date and of the best 
 that can be bought, costs money; location, the type of 
 runs, the amount of healthy exercise the dogs get, cost 
 money; and (an item that is just as costly to the owner 
 of the kennel though many do not take it into considera- 
 tion) the amount of individual time, care and work spent 
 on the dogs is costly; all these things go to make up a 
 kennel run rightly and well. A dog bought from such a 
 kennel must naturally cost the purchaser more but no 
 puppy or dog is cheap if it is sickly or unsatisfactory in 
 any way! 
 
 Since it is only fair that the man who buys a dog should 
 blame no one but himself if he finds he has picked a 
 wrong one, I think it most desirable that everyone should 
 educate himself as to what to look for in choosing a dog. 
 If a thing is worth doing at all it is always worth doing 
 well and intelligently, even to the buying of a dog! 
 
 If your choice is a puppy over two months, you will 
 of course look for one that has every outward appearance 
 of health. 
 
 Set him on a table and begin to examine him carefully ! 
 
 See that his bone is good and that his shoulders are 
 sound. Feel his back to see if it is strong and if his 
 flesh is firm with loose and flexible skin. 
 
 Examine his skin, especially under his forelegs and on 
 
42 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 his chest and stomach. Eczema is indicated by eruptions 
 or redness of the skin either generally or in places. It 
 is a blood condition, not necessarily contagious and quite 
 curable but requires treatment before delivery of the dog. 
 
 Signs of mange will be seen in probable loss of hair, 
 probable bareness around eyes, and running sores on the 
 body. In this disease a dog seldom looks healthy quite 
 apart from the local skin eruptions but if you have the 
 slightest doubt about the skin being healthy, let a veter- 
 inary see him before you purchase. 
 
 Now having satisfied yourself as to the condition of his 
 skin, look at his mouth. The teeth should meet evenly, 
 neither over nor under shot. Frequently, a dog's price 
 will be reduced on account of a faulty mouth in this re- 
 spect, and it is of no detriment to the dog as a "pal," 
 only affecting his chances in the show ring. It is how- 
 ever well to know that a dog with an unlevel mouth 
 should not be sold for the same price as one with a per- 
 fect mouth. An honest breeder or seller will of his own 
 accord point out to you a faulty mouth, whereas a dis- 
 honest one will not! 
 
 A puppy begins to change his teeth when he is about 
 five months old and the process lasts about two months, 
 according to the individual. Frequently "baby fangs" 
 are slow to fall out and may even be present when all 
 the new teeth are in place. In such a case they can easily 
 be removed with forceps. 
 
 Most puppies carry their ears erratically while teething. 
 In a drop eared dog the ears may be carried erect or semi- 
 erect and vice versa. This condition should not influence 
 you against a dog, unless he is over 9 months of age, as 
 it is usually merely temporary. 
 
 The teeth should be clean and the gums firm and pink. 
 Occasionally a dog who has had distemper will have 
 marks on his teeth. Such discoloration is not a blemish 
 
ON BUYING A DOG 43 
 
 and should not be counted against him. In fact it en- 
 hances his value, as proof positive that he has come 
 through this much dreaded sickness and can reasonably be 
 considered immune. 
 
 The breath of a healthy dog is quite sweet and has no 
 disagreeable odor. 
 
 After giving the dog such a thorough examination, put 
 him on the ground and watch his action. It should be 
 free and natural, giving an impression of general sound- 
 ness. 
 
 His eyes should be bright and clear, with whites un- 
 clouded. 
 
 Occasionally, a terrier that is allowed to lead a free, 
 untrammeled life, digging all he wishes in the earth, may 
 show a slight running at the eyes, caused by dirt recently 
 thrown in the eyes, but this condition can usually be 
 judged as either temporary or not by his general condi- 
 tion in other respects. 
 
 A puppy should not have a "bloated'' appearance nor 
 should he be too thin. Either condition would indicate 
 worms or a poor digestion. 
 
 He should be muscular from free exercise, his bones 
 well covered with firm flesh and his whole appearance 
 indicative of a dog in perfect health and condition. 
 
 If you are picking out a very high class individual 
 from a show point of view, you should either know the 
 breed and know what you should find in a good dog or 
 you should put yourself in the hands of the kennel owner, 
 telling him that you rely on his judgment to give you the 
 best he can for your money. 
 
 If you have been wise in your choice of kennel, it will 
 be perfectly safe to do this, for a satisfied customer will 
 mean more to a kennel owner than the actual price of one 
 dog, and it would be bad policy on his part to label an in- 
 different specimen as a high class dog. You must not 
 
44 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 I 
 
 forget however that you should not expect to get a dog 
 
 good enough to win in a show for the price of one that is 
 
 just a perfectly good "pal.'* 
 
 Another important thing to remember is that no one 
 can guarantee how a puppy will turn out — all puppies are 
 a gamble in this respect! The one from which you ex- 
 pect least, may turn out to be the best of his litter and 
 vice versa. In the Sealyhams and Cairns few dogs are 
 at their best before they have reached the age of eighteen 
 months. 
 
 Having a dog sent to you on approval sounds very safe 
 from the buyer's point of view but with distances as great 
 as they are in America, a good many kennels refuse to 
 ship their dogs on these terms. In my opinion this should 
 not discourage the purchaser, for, if he is dealing with 
 the right kind of kennel, the owner would far rather 
 have his dog returned to him and refund the price paid, 
 than have a dog out, whose owner carries a "grouch" 
 about it ! 
 
 In some cases the "grouch" may be entirely unfair to 
 the breeder or seller were the circumstances of the sale 
 known, but in the dog business it is not only the buyer 
 who takes many a sporting chance, and if the seller hap- 
 pens to be the loser he usually stands to lose far more than 
 the other man! Inconsiderate and unreasonable buyers 
 very often are the cause of real financial loss to a breeder 
 who has played the game absolutely "straight" but who 
 has to suffer through the lack of intelligent knowledge on 
 the part of the man he has to serve. 
 
 If people would only realize it, there is just one sure 
 way to put the "crook" dealers out of business and force 
 them to shut up shop, and that is to learn how to buy a 
 dog! 
 
 Such dealers or breeders will perforce lose their trade 
 and at the same time the honest, reliable kennel owners 
 
ON BUYING A DOG 45 
 
 will be spared the occasional losses I have mentioned, 
 which at present they have to stand with as good grace as 
 possible. 
 
 How much wiser to be able to go to a kennel that is 
 reliable in every respect and buy its stock with intelli- 
 gence. You can then appreciate the owner's honesty and 
 value it accordingly or you are in a position to realize that 
 you have picked a wrong kennel, before you have been 
 **stung" by having an utterly unsuitable dog sold to you! 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 ON RAISING A PUPPY 
 
 The usual age at which a puppy is considered old 
 enough to leave his home kennels, is eight weeks. At 
 that age, if he has been well raised and is a healthy speci- 
 men, he will have been treated at least twice for worms 
 and have been on solid food for two weeks. 
 
 With careful watching and strict attention to diet, he 
 should not be more than a normal risk. 
 
 It is always wise to have some idea of how he has 
 been fed and how many meals he has been accustomed to 
 take, for immediate changes would not be desirable. 
 
 There are two important things to do in raising a 
 puppy. One is to watch the daily condition of his bowels, 
 and the other is not to overfeed him. 
 
 The Bowels 
 
 By carefully noting his bowels, it is easy to see at 
 once when anything is wrong with his health. A normal 
 puppy has so much natural vitality that he might keep 
 fairly lively for several days even with symptoms of a 
 disordered digestion. Unless his bowels were being 
 watched this condition might go unnoticed. Looseness 
 of the bowels, even though there might not be actual 
 diarrhoea, is a sign that his digestion is upset, however 
 slightly, and should be corrected immediately. 
 
 When such a condition is noticed, his diet should be 
 changed and probably reduced. Too much food at each 
 
 46 
 
ON RAISING A PUPPY 47 
 
 meal might be a cause, and also too much "sloppy" food. 
 If the disturbance continues it would be advisable to 
 give him a dose of castor oil (a teaspoon ful for an eight 
 weeks' old pup would be about right, but he should take 
 all of that) given before his breakfast, and followed by a 
 drink of warm milk two hours later. 
 
 This medicine is safer than any other and should always 
 be given at the first sign of any "upset." 
 
 Digestive disturbances, stomach and intestinal troubles 
 are shown immediately in his bowel passages — in fact, the 
 bowels may be said to be the barometer of his health ! 
 
 If one always watches a puppy in this way, it will 
 seldom have a chance to get really sick. 
 
 It is most usual for very young puppies to have an 
 "upset" three or four days after they change their homes. 
 This is frequently merely the result of the change in their 
 daily life, differently prepared food, and also may arise 
 from the nervous excitement of new surroundings. 
 
 It is well to realize that all puppies are susceptible to 
 such changes, and although some may not show any out- 
 ward signs of it, yet their nervous systems are always 
 more or less affected. 
 
 A small dose of castor oil will in such cases put the 
 pup to rights. 
 
 It is for this reason that, when a puppy is shipped to 
 his new home, it is always advisable to dose him with 
 the oil not later than the second day after his arrival, 
 and of course earlier if he shows definite signs of being 
 upset internally. 
 
 Overfeeding 
 
 An over-anxious owner often has a tendency to 
 overfeed a puppy. This usually happens by giving him 
 too much actual bulk at one meal. 
 
 The stomach of a puppy should not be distended by 
 
48 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 the time he has emptied his dish of food. There must 
 naturally be a little added rotundity but no real disten- 
 tion. 
 
 Some puppies can digest more than others, and of 
 course the large breeds of dogs require more food than 
 the smaller terriers, so it is hard to establish any set rule 
 as to the quantity desirable at each meal. It is seldom 
 wise, however, to give a dog the size of a Sealyham or 
 Cairn, more than two tablespoonfuls of bulk at any one 
 meal when he is but two months old. It is very easy 
 for each owner to find out exactly how much his in- 
 dividual pup requires by carefully noting his condition 
 while he is eating. In any case no puppy should ever 
 leave his dish satisfied. 
 
 It is a good plan to leave a puppy quiet after every 
 meal. In normal kennel life, he would take a healthy 
 nap after feeding and he should be allowed to follow 
 this habit when he is a "family" dog. Let him be put 
 out of doors for a run after each feed and when he comes 
 in leave him to his own devices or shut him in his "pen" 
 for a time. 
 
 It will be found that his digestion is kept in better 
 condition by following this practice. 
 
 Feeding 
 
 It is essential for every owner to realize in feeding a 
 terrier that he needs a certain amount of raw lean meat 
 in his diet. Starchy foods and milk must also be allowed, 
 of course, but the principal bone, muscle and blood- 
 making food is meat. 
 
 The stomach of a puppy is very small and cannot 
 successfully take care of much bulk. His internal or- 
 gans were made to digest raw flesh and it is well for every 
 owner of a puppy to bear this in mind. 
 
ON RAISING A PUPPY 49 
 
 In his natural state he would not have milk after his 
 mother weaned him, nor would he have cereals and 
 vegetables to eat. Since making him a domestic animal, 
 we have of course educated him to these foods, but we 
 cannot alter the fact that his stomach contains special 
 juices for the digestion of certain foods. It stands to 
 reason therefore that he is able to digest his natural diet 
 more easily and with less strain on his organs than the 
 one which he has acquired through domesticity. 
 
 With this in mind, if a puppy is sick, put him on a 
 raw meat diet, fed in small quantities at frequent in- 
 tervals. His digestive organs will in this way be given 
 a rest. 
 
 Intestinal and stomach troubles are much more frequent 
 in milk and starch fed puppies than in those fed on 
 liberal raw meat. 
 
 Vegetables should not be given to puppies under three 
 months of age and their use must be gradual. They are 
 not difficult to digest and affect the blood in a most bene- 
 ficial way, especially in hot weather, but they tend to 
 loosen the bowels and therefore should be given 
 cautiously. 
 
 All green vegetables are good, also onions, carrots, beans 
 and peas, but they should be finely chopped or mashed 
 before being added to the food. 
 
 It is a great mistake to think that puppies, even at 
 eight weeks old, should be fed on a "sloppy" diet. On 
 the contrary their food should be given them as dry as 
 possible and when milk is used, it should be used spar- 
 ingly. While not actually causing worms, yet sloppy food 
 undoubtedly favors the growth of these pests. It also 
 distends the stomach too much and puts more weight on 
 a puppy's legs than is desirable. It must not be forgot- 
 ten that in order to have good legs and shoulders on a 
 dog, there must not be too much weight put on them 
 
50 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 while they are young. This is a very strong argument in 
 favor of concentrated nourishment in small bulk and dry 
 feeding. 
 
 Cow's milk is not at all suitable for puppies. It causes 
 irritation to the lining of the stomach and is not easily 
 digested. "Lactol" is one of the best substitutes for 
 cow's milk and is far superior to any form of canned 
 milk, either condensed or evaporated, but is an expensive 
 item. 
 
 In cereals rice, oatmeal, corn meal (in winter) and 
 cream of wheat are good but they must always be very 
 thoroughly cooked. Bread is also excellent, but it must 
 be very stale. 
 
 The ready-to-serve cereals are very useful for supper 
 time and most puppies like Shredded Wheat Biscuits, 
 Force and Post Toasties. 
 
 When taking a puppy off milk or milk foods as he gets 
 older, it is a good plan to use soup to moisten his cereals. 
 Always allow the soup to get quite cold and remove all 
 fat from the top before serving. 
 
 Since puppies appreciate a change of diet, it is some- 
 times well to give them cooked meat or vegetable soups. 
 In fact any kind of cooked meat may be given as a 
 change, provided it is neither greasy nor richly cooked 
 nor served hot. 
 
 When experiments in new foods are being made, it is 
 especially important to watch the puppy's bowels, for 
 one can note immediately when any food disagrees. 
 
 A Dainty Feeder 
 
 No healthy pup is ever dainty in his feeding, nor is 
 he easily satisfied. He should be greedy and always look- 
 ing for more than he gets. Such keenness for food does 
 
ON RAISING A PUPPY 51 
 
 not indicate worms, unless in spite of eating very well 
 he remains thin. 
 
 Too many people appear to be resigned to their puppy 
 being what they call "a dainty feeder." As a matter of 
 fact this expression really means a poor digestion or in- 
 testinal weakness. Never allow your puppy to "pick" 
 at his food. When he does, remove the dish entirely, 
 starving him till next feeding time. If he is still not 
 hungry, give him the recommended dose of castor oil. 
 Such behavior on his part is a sure sign of something in- 
 ternally wrong and should never be overlooked. 
 
 Constant Watching 
 
 As has been shown, constant watching is necessary in 
 raising a puppy but it is really not more necessary in one 
 under three months than in one over that age. The 
 healthiest pups are those which, although not "coddled," 
 are raised with forethought and common sense. It is a 
 mistake to think that even a six month old puppy does 
 not require attention. There are of course a great many 
 family pets who might be said to have raised themselves, 
 but every dog is healthier in the end and less liable to fall 
 a victim to disease if his early raising has been done 
 correctly. 
 
 Number of Meals 
 
 A puppy should be given his breakfast whenever his 
 family bestirs itself, and after he has had his early morn- 
 ing run. Breakfast may consist of cereal preferably with 
 Lactol. 
 
 Three hours later, he may be given a puppy biscuit to 
 play with and to eat when he is old enough to know that 
 it is eatable. 
 
52 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 About one o'clock, he will want his dinner, so he should 
 have his chopped raw beef, served either plain or with 
 crumbled stale bread. 
 
 About seven o'clock, supper may be given and can con- 
 sist of any of the ready cooked cereals with Lactol. 
 Baked rice or tapioca puddings are much relished and 
 make a nice change for this meal. 
 
 As the puppy gets older, the quantity of food given at 
 each meal will of course need to be increased, and when 
 he is six months old, he can go without supper. The 
 puppy biscuits in the middle of the morning may also be 
 taken from his menu. In place of the breakfast cereal, 
 let him have dry unbroken biscuits, for after seven months 
 old, it is advisable to take him off milk as a daily diet. 
 
 At the age of one year, he should only get a good din- 
 ner in the middle of the day or in the late afternoon, and 
 if he seems hungry dry biscuits for breakfast. 
 
 As long as he is under four months of age, it is really 
 most important for him to get raw meat daily, but after 
 that age, the cooked meat may be given for a change. It 
 should be decided, however, that at least three days in 
 the week his dinner should contain a liberal supply of 
 raw meat, until he has reached his full growth. 
 
 It is very advisable for a puppy to get some lime in 
 his food. This may be given him in a preparation called 
 KalFos obtainable at most big drug stores. One half 
 a teaspoon ful for a puppy eight weeks old would be right 
 and it is best given mixed in his daily dinner. 
 
 Bones 
 
 Large marrow or beef bones make very good playthings 
 for a puppy, but they should not be given too frequently 
 while he is under four months. Later, while he is cutting 
 his teeth, they will help him a great deal and throughout 
 
ON RAISING A PUPPY 53 
 
 his life they are good for digestion and help to keep the 
 teeth clean. 
 
 Never give chicken, game or chop bones however, for 
 they are apt to splinter and are therefore dangerous. 
 
 As he grows older, he will of course be able to chew 
 oil a considerable amount of the bone but as long as it is 
 the kind that crushes and does not splinter, what he gets 
 of it will be beneficial to him. It may, however, tend to 
 constipate him. Such an effect must be watched and 
 corrected at once by eliminating the cause for a few days. 
 
 Constipation 
 
 Often when a puppy is very constipated, he will cry 
 out when his bowels move. The treatment in such cases 
 consists of olive oil injections in the rectum once a day 
 till he is cured. The amount of oil injected may be a 
 half teaspoonful for a puppy of eight weeks, increasing 
 as he gets older. The same quantity of oil twice a day 
 may be also given him by mouth. 
 
 Oil Injections 
 
 To give these oil injections it is advisable to get a glass 
 funnel and attach to it a rubber enema tube. Grease 
 the tube well with vaseline and insert in the rectum. 
 Then pour the oil into the funnel and hold the puppy up 
 with hindquarters off the ground. The operation must 
 be done very slowly so that the oil is not evacuated. 
 
 Picking Up Poisonous Substances 
 
 Sometimes a puppy will pick up a piece of poisonous 
 matter which will cause violent diarrhoea or vomiting or 
 both. As previously advised, a dose of castor oil is the 
 
54 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 first remedy and if this does not cure the trouble, enemas 
 must be tried. To give a dog an enema is not as hard 
 as it sounds but the owner must have confidence in him- 
 self and treat his patient with firm kindness. 
 
 The water to be injected should be as hot as can be 
 comfortably borne by the hand and salt should be added 
 to it. A tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water would 
 be about right. Use an ordinary fountain syringe, and 
 suspend it at a good height from the ground. Instead 
 of the short enema tubes that usually come with a syringe, 
 buy a rubber one that is quite long and of course, for a 
 puppy, not too thick. 
 
 Fix this on the long syringe tube and after greasing 
 well insert far up in the rectum very slowly. The dog 
 will struggle when he feels the water going into him so 
 it is advisable to have someone hold his head, unless the 
 owner is experienced enough to hold the dog between 
 his knees and give the enema at the same time. A puppy 
 cannot retain the water for any length of time, so it will 
 in all probability be returned almost immediately but that 
 is of no matter as the flushing out of the passages is what 
 is required and this can take place anyhow. Half a pint 
 of water would be a sufficiently large amount for a very 
 young puppy. The amount may of course be increased 
 according to age. In severe cases of poisoning, it will 
 be found necessary to give enemas at least three times a 
 day until a cure is effected. 
 
 Gastritis 
 
 Gastritis is an ailment from which some puppies suffer 
 but not usually before they are five or six months of age. 
 The symptoms are excessive thirst and probably a vomit- 
 ing of a frothy mucus both after drinking and at any 
 time during day or night. Diarrhoea is also often present. 
 
ON RAISING A PUPPY 55 
 
 The treatment consists in keeping all water away from 
 the patient and letting him lick a lump of ice instead. In 
 the early stages, starvation is advisable in order to give 
 the stomach a complete rest, and later, a very small quan- 
 tity of raw meat may be given at frequent intervals. 
 For medicine, give him bismuth pills (5 grain pills divided 
 in half for a very young puppy but an older pup can take 
 one pill of this size) three times a day or in bad cases 
 every four hours. If the patient does not get better with- 
 in forty-eight hours it is advisable to send for a 
 veterinary. 
 
 Liver 
 
 Occasionally in older puppies, vomiting of this frothy 
 mucus may be a symptom of a sluggish liver. In such 
 a case calomel is indicated. A tenth of a grain given 
 every fifteen minutes till eight are taken is a suitable 
 dose for a puppy over five months. This medicine must 
 always be followed in the morning by a liberal dose of 
 either milk of magnesia or epsom salts. Two teaspoon- 
 fuls of the former diluted in the same amount of water 
 would be right for a young puppy of five months, or a 
 teaspoon ful of the salts in twice or three times as much 
 water. 
 
 A sluggish liver may be caused by lack of sufficient 
 exercise coupled probably with over-feeding or feeding 
 greasy, hot or rich foods. All puppies are better on a 
 plain diet, therefore it is desirable to avoid the tempta- 
 tion of handing them "tidbits." Keep them strictly on 
 their own regulation diet. 
 
 Worming 
 
 All puppies should be wormed regularly once a month 
 regardless of whether they show signs of having these 
 
56 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 pests. They may be seen in the bowel passages, looking 
 like little pieces of flat tape (tape worms) or little pieces 
 of thread (round worms). Sometimes a puppy may 
 vomit a live round worm which of course is very conclusive 
 evidence that he needs immediate attention. 
 
 Glover's Liquid Vermifuge is very safe, easy to give 
 and effective. When a puppy has reached six months of 
 age he need only be treated four times a year, and after 
 he is twelve months old, twice a year should be sufficient. 
 It is most important to treat this regularly because so 
 many troubles may be caused by worms, such as eczema, 
 gastritis, diarrhoea, etc. 
 
 Sleeping Quarters, Training 
 
 We must now consider the proper way to care for a 
 puppy's physical comfort immediately after he arrives 
 in his new home! 
 
 It is never desirable to place a puppy in an underground 
 basement, not even to sleep. His bed should always be 
 in his owner's house if it is desired to make him a daily 
 companion. Of course dogs that are bought as watch 
 dogs or out-of-door dogs may live in a stable very com- 
 fortably, but in the case of a puppy that is expected to be 
 a very close companion, it will always be found more 
 satisfactory to start him in the house from the very be- 
 ginning. Many people dread the trouble that a very 
 young puppy will make in the house but there is a way 
 to install your puppy in your home even as young as eight 
 weeks without having any disagreeable upsets. The whole 
 secret lies in not turning him loose in the house, with no 
 special place of his own and no facilities for house- 
 breaking in comfort. 
 
 In the first place, have a wire run made for him. Let 
 it be at least three feet from the floor, for a small terrier 
 
ON RAISING A PUPPY 57 
 
 breed, about 4 ft. long, and 2 ft. wide. It can 
 be made of a close-meshed chicken wire, made in 
 four sections and put together with hinges, so that it may 
 be folded up and put neatly away when not in use. It 
 may follow the same idea as a baby's play run, only that 
 it is made of wire netting instead of wood or screening. 
 
 In this run put his sleeping box (a basket is not ad- 
 visable for a very young puppy would surely chew the 
 wicker to pieces during his moments of boredom). An 
 old piece of carpet is as good as anything for his bedding. 
 Tack it to the bottom of the box, to prevent him from 
 tearing it up. A cushion would be too hot in summer 
 time and a young puppy would surely tear it up in any 
 case. Let the box have a piece of wood across the front, 
 low enough for him to get in and out easily but high 
 enough to keep floor draughts away from him. 
 
 While the puppy is too young to know house manners, 
 newspapers or oilcloth should be kept on the floor. They 
 can be changed whenever necessary without much trouble 
 and may therefore be kept clean and tidy. 
 
 It will be noticed after a week or so, if the puppy has 
 always been put out of doors or in his run at frequent 
 intervals and before he has had the desire to misbehave, 
 that he will go to his run or to the door when he feels 
 the call of nature. It is most important that he should 
 not be allowed to misbehave frequently in the house out- 
 side of his run, but if he does, a scolding should be given 
 and the miscreant put in his bed. 
 
 Regular hours for his out-of-door runs are very im- 
 portant. Always let him out after every meal, and then 
 at certain set times, so that he may know when to expect 
 to be put where he is allowed to relieve himself. No one 
 can fool even a tiny puppy on his meal hours, and it will 
 be the same with his hours for attending to nature. 
 
 Never feed a puppy later than seven o'clock at night, 
 
58 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 exercise him as late as possible and put him out as early 
 as possible in the morning. 
 
 A very young puppy cannot be expected to contain him- 
 self for many hours at a time therefore he will certainly 
 soil his newspapers at night until he is about four months 
 old, but if he is kept as advised, no one can grumble 
 about the small amount of trouble it is to change the 
 papers. It is not a good thing to follow the old fashioned 
 idea of "rubbing a dog's nose" in his mistakes. Such 
 treatment is very apt to start him in the bad habit of eat- 
 ing filth and should therefore be avoided. A good scold- 
 ing is as effective as anything and cannot spoil his spirit 
 as would the use of the whip or hand. 
 
 Eating Filth 
 
 There is sometimes a tendency shown in young puppies 
 to eat dirty things or coal. This habit may denote a 
 disordered digestion caused by worms or gastritis. Cer- 
 tain changes in the diet should be tried, and cooling 
 aperient medicines should be given. 
 
 Flowers of sulphur mixed in small quantities on his 
 food might be tried for a few days, but not for too long 
 as this treatment is rather depressing to the system. A 
 tonic would not come amiss such as Delcreo, or Benbow, 
 but the chief thing would be to attend to the diet and to 
 use some slightly laxative mild medicine. 
 
 The eating of coal is caused by the same trouble and 
 is really merely an effort on the puppy's part to satisfy 
 an internal craving which he does not understand but 
 which is there and is not appeased by his owner's food 
 and care. If there is a looseness of his bowels at the 
 same time, bismuth would be a good remedy for it sweet- 
 ens the stomach, counteracting acidity. 
 
ON RAISING A PUPPY 59 
 
 Teething and Training the Ears 
 
 Teething in a normally healthy puppy should not be at- 
 tended by any sickness whatever. The teeth fall out 
 without any trouble and the new ones come into place 
 quite naturally. The only attention that should be given 
 is to see that the baby fangs fall out. Sometimes, espe- 
 cially in the terrier breeds, these fangs are very deeply 
 set and require pulling out with forceps. This is a dis- 
 agreeable operation because the puppy objects to being 
 held as firmly as he must be and it is also quite painful, 
 though only for a moment. During teething a puppy 
 whose ears are naturally of the drop variety may carry 
 them erect or semi-erect or with one up and the other 
 down. The same may be said of the naturally erect 
 eared dog. This is caused by the teeth coming through 
 the gum and in the usual course of events as soon as the 
 new teeth are in place the ears resume their normal car- 
 riage. Sometimes they do not, in which cases it is nec- 
 essary to train them the way they should go. For an 
 erect eared dog, cut a piece of adhesive plaster the shape 
 of the ear, put a piece of match stick between two pieces 
 of the plaster in the center and stick this to the inside of 
 the ear. Keep this on for at least a week and note the 
 result. If not improved, repeat, but keep on for a longer 
 period. With Cairn Terriers some specimens are naturally 
 drop-eared but the percentage is very small. It may be, 
 however, that the ears will never resume their erectness, 
 in which case there is no remedy possible. This is one of 
 the chances taken in buying a puppy, but it is consoling to 
 know that such specimens are really rare. 
 
 With a dog that is naturally drop eared, like the Sealy- 
 ham Terrier, adhesive plaster should be bound right 
 
60 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 around his head, holding the ears down in the position 
 required. The plaster may be quite narrow but it should 
 be put on very firmly and left there for several days at 
 a time. Alcohol will remove the plaster without pain and 
 the slight disfigurement caused by the hair which is re- 
 moved with the plaster is not serious — not half so serious 
 a blemish as ears carried badly for lack of the necessary 
 training at the right moment. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ON THE CARE OF THE DOG 
 
 1. What should I feed my dog? 
 
 For breakfast give him two unbroken dog biscuits. If 
 he does not want them, he is not hungry and needs no 
 food. 
 
 I find that the biscuits put up by the Bennett Biscuit 
 Co. called Maltoid Milkbone, are very good and much 
 relished by dogs. 
 
 For dinner, given as late as possible in the afternoon, 
 let him have lean raw beef, chopped up and mixed with 
 green vegetables, rice or stale bread. He should have 
 this at least 3 times a week. On other days he will en- 
 joy table scraps provided that they are not greasy or rich 
 and not served to him while hot. Dogs are very fond of 
 a meat stew cooked with plenty of vegetables, such as 
 onions, any kind of greens, carrots, etc. They also relish 
 fish as a change but this must be very carefully prepared 
 on account of bones. 
 
 As a matter of fact, the less "fancy" food given your 
 dog, the better he will thrive. I invariably find that the 
 pet dogs that are fed on porterhouse steak, chicken, and 
 such dainties show signs after the first two days at my 
 kennels, that they really enjoy plain food. They always 
 return to their homes in good, if not better condition than 
 when they came to me. 
 
 Be sure to let your dog have large marrow bones on 
 which to chew. They are good for his teeth, keeping 
 them clean and aiding his digestion, besides allowing him 
 to pass some very happy hours! All bones should be 
 
 61 
 
62 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 given uncooked, and never give chicken, chop' or game 
 bones for they splinter and may cause endless trouble. 
 
 Too many bones may cause constipation, so, if you 
 notice your dog suffering from this tendency, cut down 
 his supply and feed him more green vegetables. 
 
 2. Is it a fact that meat makes a dog smell, become 
 fierce and have eczema? 
 
 I answer "no" to each of these queries. 
 
 A dog will not smell, even "doggy," if his skin is in 
 good condition, his bowels kept normal, his teeth clean 
 and his hair well cared for. 
 
 There is a strong feeling in America against feeding 
 raw meat to dogs but it is not based on any reasonable 
 objections. 
 
 The dog's stomach is actually made to digest flesh in 
 the raw state and has juices for that special purpose. It 
 is only through domesticity that he is able to digest 
 starchy food and then only when he is in very good health. 
 It takes him many more hours to digest anything starchy 
 than to digest raw meat and there is a strain put on his 
 digestion while he is doing it. 
 
 Of course it is true that the pet dog is kept under un- 
 natural conditions, but even so, I do not see the sense of 
 adding to this unnatural state by depriving him of the 
 food that he is made to eat by Nature. 
 
 As regards eczema, this trouble is far more often the 
 direct result of starchy feeding than of a meat diet. It is 
 usually caused by digestive disturbances, poor blood, 
 caused by the juices not acting properly and so on. It 
 stands to reason that troubles will arise in the internal 
 mechanism of a dog if his digestion is always being 
 strained. 
 
 Even in hot weather, raw meat does no harm, provided 
 it is fed in reasonable quantities and mixed with green 
 
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 63 
 
 vegetables. It is astonishing how much better a dog's 
 health will be during the summer if he is fed on a low 
 diet, allowed plenty of exercise and plain raw meat. 
 
 3. Tell me ahoiU worming my dog? 
 
 A dog should be wormed regularly twice a year when 
 full grown. Glover's Liquid Vermifuge is satisfactory 
 for round worms but the tape worm requires a rather 
 stronger treatment. 
 
 In treating the former kind of parasite, it is essential 
 to starve the patient for at least 24 hours before dosing. 
 (I am now speaking of a dog that is in good health and 
 condition.) Two hours after the medicine has been ad- 
 ministered, give the dog some warm milk or soup and in 
 the evening let him have his usual meal but of plain raw 
 meat only. 
 
 The vermifuge does not make the dog feel sick, though 
 it may cause vomiting a few hours after dosing, espe- 
 cially if he has not been strictly starved on the previous 
 day. 
 
 In the case of tape worm, areca nut freshly ground 
 is very effective. The dose should be a grain to every 
 pound the dog weighs. 
 
 It is not only absolutely necessary to starve before 
 treating but it is advisable to give a mild aperient medi- 
 cine the night before in order to clear the stomach and 
 intestines of as much mucus as possible. Areca nut 
 must always be followed in two hours by a generous dose 
 of castor oil. 
 
 I strongly advise regular treatments for worms in all 
 dogs, for by this method the pests never get any serious 
 hold of the dog and therefore no damage can ever be 
 caused by their existence. 
 
 4. What should I give my dog for eczema? 
 
 To begin with, treat for worms as previously advised, 
 
64 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 for these pests often are the direct cause of this trouble. 
 
 Then put him on a raw meat diet with plenty of fresh 
 greens. 
 
 If he is fat, cut down his food, if thin, increase the 
 quantity given and give him two meals a day instead of 
 one. 
 
 In the former condition give him a great deal of exer- 
 cise and a teaspoonful of Rochelle Salts on his food once 
 a day for a week. Watch his bov/els and do not let them 
 get too loose. After a week's dosing of this, stop it and 
 start again in a week if he is not cured. Some dogs dis- 
 like the salts very much even on their favorite food, in 
 that case give Flowers of Sulphur in the same way and 
 the same amount. Let me here remark on the absurd 
 custom some people have of putting a stick of sulphur in 
 their dog's water. Sulphur is not soluble in this form 
 and cannot possibly do the dog any good. 
 
 If your dog is thin, instead of giving the aperient medi- 
 cine, give him a tonic. Fowler's Solution of Arsenic is 
 very beneficial but it must be given sparingly and care- 
 fully as it is a strong poison. Begin with five drops in 
 water once a day, increasing to perhaps eight drops, in a 
 week. This is about right for a Sealyham or Cairn Ter- 
 rier. When you think your dog is better, reduce the 
 quantity of arsenic very gradually. I have found that 
 this drug acts more quickly and efficaciously on eczema 
 than any other remedy but all dogs do not respond in the 
 same way to the same medicines so it is always necessary 
 to watch the effects carefully. 
 
 Do not confuse eczema with mange. The former is 
 nearly always curable though it takes a long time and 
 much patience in many cases, but the latter is highly con- 
 tagious and requires very drastic treatment. 
 
 For outward application, in both ailments, a mixture 
 of oil of tar, linseed oil, flowers of sulphur, kerosene and 
 
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 65 
 
 tincture of cantharides is most effective but as it is very 
 greasy and has a strong odor, it is not practical for a 
 house dog. Instead, use peroxide, or Poslam, or zinc 
 ointment, but in the case of the latter do not apply where 
 the dog can lick it off nor is it wise to use it for any 
 length of time. 
 
 5. Whut can I do for canker in the ear of my dog? 
 
 Canker is very often an accompaniment of eczema, the 
 two frequently being seen together, both caused by a poor 
 condition of the blood. It can also be caused by water 
 left in the ear after bathing or by parasites in the ear 
 canal. 
 
 If it goes with eczema, the curing of the one will cure 
 the other but local relief should be given at the same 
 time. Glyco Thymoline, slightly warmed, and dropped 
 into the ear night and morning will often give relief, and 
 a ten per cent solution of argyrol is also useful. After 
 drying out the passage with absorbent cotton around a 
 match stick, dust well with boric powder. 
 
 If the cause of the canker is a parasite, a little peroxide 
 poured in twice a day is effective. It can be slightly 
 diluted with warm water. A mild solution of Pearson's 
 Creolin is also very beneficial. 
 
 6. What can I do for warts? 
 
 Tie a piece of silk around the wart very tightly, and in 
 a day or so it will have disappeared. 
 
 I have frequently noticed that warts on a dog often 
 appear when he is suffering with eczema, so treatment 
 for this trouble should be followed. 
 
 7. If my dog drags himself along the ground, has he 
 
 zvormsf 
 
 This symptom often denotes worms and a vermifuge 
 
66 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 should be given but it can also indicate piles. If the 
 latter trouble exists you can feel a swelling just within 
 the anus. Squeeze this firmly between your fingers and 
 a strong smelling "pus" will come away. As long as 
 there is any swelling this treatment should be kept up 
 but at the same time it is necessary to insert on the tip 
 of your finger a small quantity of an ointment especially 
 prepared for piles. Your dog may resent the treatment 
 at first but master him from the beginning and he will 
 soon resign himself to his fate. 
 
 It is usually supposed that piles only come to old dogs 
 but I have seen quite young puppies suflfering with them. 
 They are usually winter pups that have not been able to 
 get enough open air exercise. Lack of exercise coupled 
 with good feeding is largely responsible for the condition. 
 
 8. How often should I bathe my dog? 
 
 As seldom as possible consistent with keeping him 
 clean. Daily brushing and combing is far more impor- 
 tant than bathing for it keeps the skin stimulated and 
 healthy and promotes growth of hair. Frequent bathing 
 softens a dog's coat and is therefore very detrimental to 
 a terrier. With a white dog it is of course necessary to 
 keep him clean but when he comes in muddy or wet, dry 
 him ofif with a hard towel, and then a thorough brushing 
 will often be all that is required. For his bath use any 
 good mild soap, and be sure to rinse the dog well in clear 
 water before drying. 
 
 9. Should my Sealyham he trimmed occasionally? 
 
 Yes, indeed, it is very desirable. Owners of these dogs 
 lose a great deal of joyful pride in their dogs when they 
 allow them to go around as Nature made them ! To look 
 right, this breed of dog in common with the fox terrier, 
 
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 67 
 
 should have his head kept fairly well trimmed. The hair 
 should be kept short on the top of the skull, on the cheeks, 
 and throat and under the ears. The ears themselves 
 should be kept free of all hair round the edges. It im- 
 proves the looks of a Sealyham or fox terrier if it is 
 properly barbered occasionally, and it is quite an easy 
 matter for an owner to learn how to trim his dog suffi- 
 ciently for all private uses, thereby doing away with the 
 necessity of a professional trimmer. The great majority 
 of Sealyhams are soft coated. Even some of the winning 
 dogs, were they seen as Nature made them, w^ould show 
 woolly coats, but they are kept close and short and plenty 
 of chalk is applied before a show in order to make the hair 
 handle harsh. I often notice in the streets of New York 
 fairly good specimens of the breed but they do not look 
 very attractive because their hair is so unkempt and un- 
 trimmed. This seems a pity, for many a low priced dog 
 can be made to look a hundred per cent better if he is 
 properly trimmed, and the barbering does not hurt him. 
 
 10. How can I give my dog medicine? 
 
 Liquid medicine should be given by holding the dog 
 between your knees. Hold his head up and draw the 
 lips into a funnel at one side of his mouth keeping his 
 teeth closed. Pour the liquid into the funnel slowly. Do 
 not release his head till it has been swallowed. 
 
 If the medicine tastes very bad or is very oily, the dog 
 will froth some of it up but if you keep the head up long 
 enough and the teeth closed what he gets rid of will be 
 mostly saliva. 
 
 In giving pills, open his mouth and with your finger 
 push the pill down his throat until you feel a contraction. 
 
 Pills can be given wrapped up in meat but in some 
 sicknesses it is not desirable to give even that much food, 
 
68 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 vSO every dog should be taught how to swallow pills and 
 liquid medicine before he gets sick! Bread pills and 
 water will do to teach a healthy dog. 
 
 The whole secret of giving medicine to a dog lies in 
 whether you are his master or not. A dog knows by the 
 touch of your hand whether he has to obey you or whether 
 he can do as he wishes. If you have confidence in your 
 ability to give him the medicine he will have confidence 
 in you and in what you are doing to him. To be master 
 of your dog in the true sense of the word means an added 
 pleasure to you in his possession and assuredly means 
 happiness and comfort to him when he is sick and has to 
 take a physic. If you are not master of your dog, ask a 
 perfect stranger who can handle dogs to do the dosing, 
 for you will never succeed yourself! 
 
 11. Tell me all you can about distemper. 
 
 Distemper is a highly contagious disease and can only 
 be contracted by coming in contact with the germ of that 
 name. 
 
 For this reason some dogs go through their whole lives 
 without faUing victims to the scourge. It is generally 
 believed that a dog can have distemper but once in his 
 life. Recently our faith in this belief has been some- 
 what shaken even though it is certainly unusual. 
 
 The germ is so vigorous that it can be carried on cloth- 
 ing or on the hand from one dog to another which makes 
 it practically impossible to isolate the illness in a kennel, 
 unless there are two attendants. 
 
 Until recently there was no known cure for the illness 
 but since the Delson Chemical Co. have put on the mar- 
 ket their Delcreo preparation the chances of pulling a dog 
 through in good shape are greatly increased. 
 
 Veterinaries usually advocate serum injections both as 
 a preventive and as a cure but whereas in the first case I 
 
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 69 
 
 am doubtful of its effectiveness, in the second I am very- 
 sure of its harmfulness. 
 
 In my first experience of the disease back in 1904 I 
 pulled a terrier through by the aid of nothing but quinine 
 and good nursing but in 1916 when the scourge got into 
 my kennels I called in a veterinary and he injected every 
 dog in the place, including those that had it and those that 
 were likely to have it. I lost every dog and pup that was 
 not immune! 
 
 My next experience came two years later and I had 
 heard of Delcreo. I decided that as I could not do worse 
 than I did the previous time I would give the medicine a 
 fair trial. Six puppies of four months old had all the 
 symptoms when I began my treatment and every one 
 came through triumphantly! 
 
 Since then Delcreo has never left my kennels and never 
 will! 
 
 But now I do not wait until the symptoms begin. I 
 dose regularly and at show time every dog or puppy that 
 has not had the disease gets his daily teaspoon ful even 
 if he appears perfectly well. 
 
 The whole secret of success with Delcreo lies in an 
 early start — at least it is fairer to the remedy to begin as 
 soon as any signs of sickness are noticed. Every owner 
 of a puppy can watch his dog's bowels and at the first 
 sign of looseness give him a generous dose of castor oil. 
 
 Follow with Delcreo 3 times a day after the oil has 
 purged well. If distemper is not imminent the pup will 
 be perfectly well in a day or two, but if he still seems 
 sick prepare for a siege! 
 
 Put a flannel chest protector on the dog and keep him 
 closely shut up and warm. By this I do not mean to 
 keep him in a stuffy room. Give him plenty of air but 
 no draughts and do not allow him to go out of doors or 
 take any exercise whatever. A wire cage over his box 
 
70 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 allowing for a short runway is ideal, for papers can be 
 kept on the floor under the cage and the room can be kept 
 more sanitary. 
 
 Give Delcreo every two hours and feed him lightly, but 
 often, with whatever he most fancies. Usually there 
 comes a time in distemper when the dog refuses to eat. 
 Do not force him at first, get a bottle of Gray*s Glycerine 
 Tonic and give one teaspoonful of this mixed with Del- 
 creo every two hours. Never forget the time and remem- 
 ber that constant night dosing is just as important as 
 during the day. I have seen dogs live without any food 
 on these two medicines for two days and then pick up 
 and eat satisfactorily. There is no magic about Delcreo 
 in spite of its great success, it is simply a strong internal 
 disinfectant which kills the germs as they grow. Your 
 object is to overcome these germs and that is why it is 
 most important that you should never allow a lapse in 
 your dosings, even at night. If the temperature is very 
 high, give quinine in pill form until it has lessened. The 
 temperature is taken in the rectum as with a child and 
 normal is one degree higher than if it were taken in the 
 mouth. 
 
 You need not worry at 101 degrees but anything over 
 that should be watched. If the lungs are affected rub 
 the dog's chest and sides well with camphorated oil night 
 and morning. I have pulled a puppy through pneumonia 
 when his temperature was up to 105 and his breathing 
 could be heard in the next room. He had nothing but 
 Delcreo, quinine and Gray's Tonic! 
 
 If the distemper has caused a discharge from the nose, 
 keep the nostrils clean with vaseHne on absorbent cotton 
 and drop Glyco Thymoline in the nose, slightly diluted 
 with warm water. Do this as often as you give the 
 medicine. It will help him, although it may not stop the 
 
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 71 
 
 discharge entirely. That will only cease as the distemper 
 germs weaken. 
 
 If his eyes are ulcerated or sore, wash frequently with 
 boric water and keep the room fairly dark. 
 
 Unless the dog is very weak a salt water enema is help- 
 ful from time to time. 
 
 Use plenty of Pearson's Creolin in the room and never 
 let any dirty papers remain on the floor. 
 
 If you have started with Delcreo at the early stages 
 you will probaly not have any trouble with the patient 
 going off his feed. But he should be lightly and fre- 
 quently given .very finely minced lean raw meat. If he 
 gets to the stage of refusing to eat even this, then you 
 can try to tempt him with almost anything, for his strength 
 must be maintained. Raw eggs beaten up in milk, beef 
 juice pressed from raw steak, beef tea and similar things 
 can be tried. 
 
 The fight is between the germs and the Delcreo with 
 the Tonic acting as a stimulant and food is of course 
 advisable .just as long as the patient will take it. If his 
 stomach is in such a condition that he has no appetite 
 then, I personally, would rely on the two medicines, be- 
 cause I do not think that food which is forcibly given ever 
 does much good. I have never seen the two medicines 
 fail to bring the appetite back before the patient is too 
 much weakened to pull round. 
 
 When everything points to the recovery of your dog 
 remember that it is absolutely essential that he be kept 
 quiet and without exercise for a very long time. A re- 
 lapse will ensue if this is ignored and the dog will not 
 have much of a chance. 
 
 Keep the Delcreo up twice a day for at least a month 
 after he is quite well and then give it up gradually. The 
 same may be said of the Tonic, but this is less important. 
 
72 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 When you wish to take off his chest protector, cut it 
 away a piece at a time daily, in order that he should not 
 be chilled. It should take you a week to get it all off if 
 you do it wisely. 
 
 In nursing distemper, constant care, quiet, warmth, 
 subdued sunlight, and no exercise, with Delcreo given as 
 advised, are the essentials. 
 
 Never forget that castor oil is the first remedy if your 
 dog shows signs of being off his feed, languid, or loose 
 in his bowels — then follow up with Delcreo and you will 
 at least have taken at the start any ailment with which 
 your dog was threatened. 
 
 "A stitch in time, saves nine!" 
 
 12. What can I do to cure my dog of an itching be- 
 tween his toes? 
 
 This is a form of eczema and must be cured through 
 the blood and also locally. Treat as for eczema and paint 
 the itching parts with iodine. If this does not help, apply 
 zinc ointment, but it will be necessary to bind the foot in 
 order that the patient should not lick it off. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 ON THE CARE OF A BITCH 
 
 There are a great many people who do not real- 
 ize what a very delightful companion a female dog can 
 be. She is usually more affectionate than the male, less 
 given to wandering and decidedly cleaner in her habits as a 
 house dog. Of course she is a certain amount of care 
 when she has her "seasons" but if she is not desired 
 as a breeder, there is the "spaying" operation to consider. 
 
 One often hears it said that this operation spoils the 
 nature of a bitch and makes her dull but in my own ex- 
 perience I have yet to be told of the alteration affecting 
 her thus disagreeably. 
 
 It is essential that the operation be done by a qualified 
 veterinary and can be performed any time after she is 
 five months old, before her first season, which usually 
 comes at nine months. In an adult it can be done at any 
 age between seasons. 
 
 She should always be in the best of health but not in 
 the least fat when handed over to the veterinary. 
 
 A bitch's "season" usually lasts three weeks, and oc- 
 curs but twice a year. 
 
 The first signs of its coming are a swelling of the parts 
 and an added gayety and playfulness in her behavior with 
 other dogs. A colored discharge soon appears, which in 
 some is very profuse and in others hardly noticeable. 
 
 If it is intended to breed from the bitch, now is the 
 time for her to be sent to the kennels of the chosen stud 
 
 7Z 
 
74 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 dog. No bitch will allow a dog near her until she is 
 "ready*' and this condition usually arrives about a week 
 after the discharge has first been seen. The best time 
 for mating is immediately after the discharge has ceased, 
 but if her owner is inexperienced it is advisable not to 
 wait for this time in case she is sent too late. 
 
 Bitches vary considerably and it is impossible to lay 
 down any hard and fast rules regarding the length of 
 time that they remain in a breeding condition. Some- 
 times they will be "ready" for several days and could be 
 bred any day during that time but also it is possible for 
 them to be in that state for as short a time as twenty- 
 four hours ! Close watching is necessary, so it would 
 be well for the novice to send the bitch away not later 
 than the fourth day after the discharge has appeared. 
 
 In passing, I would like to say that it is by no means 
 the easy job to mate dogs which people think it is. It 
 requires more patience, understanding and kindness on 
 the part of the owner of the stud dog than can be imag- 
 ined by the uninitiated and is undoubtedly the hardest part 
 of the dog business. 
 
 The male dog has his likes and dislikes and so has the 
 female ! 
 
 Some bitches may appear outwardly normal, but may 
 not be so. They may have a "stricture" or be otherwise 
 abnormal. So many peculiarities may exist that it is 
 well for the general owner to realize the difficulties with 
 which the owner of the stud dog may have to contend. 
 
 Such conditions, when aggravated, are very apt to cause 
 a kennel man to lose patience and he will be tempted, if 
 he has more than one dog in the kennels, to use whichever 
 dog will do the work the most quickly, handing to the 
 owner of the bitch the pedigree of the dog with which 
 she was meant to be bred. 
 
 Sometimes also an unscrupulous owner of a winning 
 
ON THE CARE OF A BITCH 75 
 
 dog which is either not a stock getter or impossible to 
 use at stud, will keep an "understudy" on the place rather 
 than lose the fees his winning dog brings him. Needless 
 to say this is grossly dishonest but it has been done and 
 undoubtedly will be done again! The novice breeder 
 should realize the possible pitfalls of the business! 
 
 Always see your bitch during service and such prac- 
 tices cannot occur. 
 
 Avoid the mistake of always blaming the stud dog 
 when your bitch "misses." In most cases she is the one 
 responsible, though of course there are exceptions. 
 
 After a bitch has been bred, she may still be in season 
 and if she is, she will require careful watching. Keep 
 her under lock and key, exercise her only on a lead and 
 not more frequently than is necessary. 
 
 Sometimes it is a great relief to the owner of a bitch 
 to get rid of her during the entire season and many ken- 
 nels will take charge of her on a boarding basis. I know 
 of nothing more disappointing than a mesalliance. While 
 it is an exploded theory that such a mating affects the 
 pure breeding of subsequent litters to a dog of her own 
 breed, yet it is a great nuisance to have all the bother of a 
 "family" that has to be put into a bucket of water at 
 birth or soon after. 
 
 Supposing now that your bitch has been successfully 
 bred, you will not need to alter her diet or mode of life 
 until she shows definite signs of being in whelp. This 
 condition may not be noticeable for four weeks after 
 breeding, dependent on the individual bitch. 
 
 As soon as she looks larger, her food may be gradually 
 increased, by letting her have a breakfast of cereal and 
 milk. Let her dinner contain a generous quantity of 
 sound, lean, raw meat. A half a pound of this daily is 
 not too much for a Sealyham or Cairn Terrier. 
 
 It is advisable to buy a tin of KalFos, obtainable at 
 
76 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 most drug stores, and give her one teaspoonful daily in 
 her dinner. 
 
 Let her have plenty of freedom, fresh air and exer- 
 cise. She should not be allowed to follow a horse or 
 bicycle and she should not jump. 
 
 A mild treatment of worm medicine, using Glover*s 
 Liquid Vermifuge, is desirable when she is five weeks in 
 whelp, unless she had a thoroughly good dosing for these 
 pests before she came into season, which of course would 
 be the better practice. 
 
 About ten days before her litter is due (the entire 
 period of gestation is 63 days) decide on the place in 
 which she is to whelp and let her get accustomed to sleep- 
 ing there. It is best if she is a house pet to put her in a 
 spare room, where she will not be disturbed and where 
 she can be kept warm while the puppies are very young. 
 She should be able to feel that she need fear no intrusions. 
 
 Her knowledge of where her bed is and her pleasure in 
 its location, will simplify matters when the day for her 
 delivery comes, for she will seek it out of her own ac- 
 cord as soon as she feels herself in labor. 
 
 At that time she will scrape her bed to pieces, therefore 
 it is advisable to bed her on a piece of old carpet or sack- 
 ing and not on a pillow. 
 
 When her labor begins in real earnestness, she will be- 
 gin to shiver, and pant and show every sign of great dis- 
 comfort. Do not worry her — she will have her puppies 
 far more quickly and better if she is left to herself. 
 
 In the case of a first litter, the labor period may last for 
 a long time, in fact she may be restless and distressed for 
 fully twenty-four hours before the actual "bearing down" 
 pains begin. 
 
 When they do, it is advisable to keep a watchful but 
 quiet eye on her in order to render her assistance should 
 she require it. 
 
ON THE CARE OF A BITCH 17 
 
 As a rule, a bitch will take care of the whole perform- 
 ance very well by herself but sometimes, when she has 
 suffered very much during delivery or when she is very 
 young, she will not awaken immediately to her instinctive 
 knowledge of what to do for her puppy on its arrival 
 in the world. In such a case, the attendant should take 
 the puppy and with sterilized scissors open the "envelope" 
 in which it is born, releasing it by so doing and cutting 
 the cord that connects it with the "after birth." When 
 this has been done, offer the puppy to its mother and she 
 will begin to lick it. Usually from then on she will take 
 care of them all. 
 
 Just as soon as a healthy pup has got its breath, so to 
 speak, it will crawl around and very quickly be helping 
 itself to its natural nourishment! 
 
 Some puppies are born feet or tail first, others come 
 down cross- wise (the normal birth is forehead first), and 
 most of these cases cause a longer labor. In the case 
 of more serious complications, when the puppies may 
 have to be taken from her, only long experience can teach 
 an attendant what should be done, and it is best to call 
 in a veterinary. 
 
 Never forget however to allow the patient plenty of 
 time before deciding she needs assistance. It is one of 
 the hardest things, to have patience when you are in at- 
 tendance on a whelping bitch — you so desire to help her 
 and get her troubles over as quickly as possible, but she 
 is really better oflf if left alone and given time to get 
 through by herself. 
 
 Sometimes the labor pains are not strong enough (this 
 often happens in what is called a "dry" birth, which 
 means that the whelp has come out of its protecting 
 envelope in which it floats in water till released by its 
 mother's teeth) and hypodermic injections of Pituitrin 
 are indicated. 
 
78 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 When the whelping is over, and all the puppies deliv- 
 ered, remove the stained bedding and put a clean dry 
 blanket in the box. 
 
 Handle the puppies as little as possible, for most moth- 
 ers dislike to see their w^helps touched even by their 
 owners and the less she is worried the better. Offer her 
 some warm milk or Lactol and then leave her absolutely 
 quiet for several hours. 
 
 If there has been any doubt in the attendant's mind 
 as to whether all the litter has been whelped, it would be 
 well to examine her carefully. A dead puppy remaining 
 behind can of course give rise to much trouble. 
 
 The day after the litter is born it is good to give the 
 mother a douche of warm water in which should be put 
 some Pearson's Creolin. 
 
 A certain amount of discharge is usual for several days 
 but if it is too profuse or has a bad odor it is well to 
 douche every day. 
 
 The mother's diet for the first twenty- four hours 
 should consist of nothing but Lactol (or cow's milk if 
 Lactol is not available) given in small quantities every 
 three or four hours. 
 
 Then thicken it with cereal or Force, etc., and gradually 
 get her on to her usual food, giving however a good allow- 
 ance and four meals a day. It is a mistaken idea to give 
 too much liquid nourishment for that is liable to give rise 
 to indigestion, but she must have plenty of good food. 
 
 Should her bowels be loose after whelping, a dose of 
 castor oil will be indicated. 
 
 KalFos must be used as before the whelping, in order 
 to give bone making properties to the puppies. 
 
 A healthy well-cared for bitch will usually nurse her 
 litter for six weeks without any help but it is advisable 
 to begin to feed them when they are about a month old. 
 About this time give them a dose of Glover's Liquid 
 
ON THE CARE OF A BITCH 79 
 
 Vermifuge, taking them away from their mother for two 
 hours before treatment and keeping them away for two 
 hours afterwards. This should be repeated at six weeks 
 and at regular intervals all through puppyhood. 
 
 With Sealyham puppies it is of course necessary to cut 
 their tails. Most people do this disagreeable job when 
 they are very young but there is no advantage gained 
 thereby. Directly after their eyes are opened is a good 
 time. 
 
 A pair of sharp scissors is a suitable instrument and 
 if the mother is put with the pups immediately after the 
 operation is performed, she will do all that is necessary 
 in caring for the wounds. 
 
 As to weaning the litter, you will notice towards the 
 beginning of the sixth week, that after eating her food, 
 the mother will rush ofT to her pups. If you follow her, 
 you will see her vomit her dinner as soon as the pups 
 begin to nurse. She does this because she knows that 
 her milk supply is getting low and her family require 
 some solid food. The custom does no harm either to 
 pups or mother and is perfectly natural, but it is well 
 to take it as a sign that artificial feeding should begin, if 
 it has not already been started. 
 
 Lactol should be given once a day in the beginning, and 
 then lean raw finely chopped beef should be offered on 
 the tip of the finger. It is astonishing to see that even 
 such tiny puppies know the smell of meat ! 
 
 As the pups seem to digest this food, the feedings 
 should be increased, keeping the mother away nearly all 
 day but letting her sleep with them at night. The only 
 successful way to wean a litter is to do it so gradually 
 that neither the mother nor the pups feel the change. 
 
 A lot of liquid food is a mistake even for such young 
 pups, although I do not mean that they should go right 
 on a solid diet, yet it is best to give them their cereals 
 
80 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 only slightly moistened with the Lactol. Weak diges- 
 tions in dogs usually start at weaning time and may con- 
 tinue during their entire lives if the weaning process has 
 not been done correctly. 
 
 No mother dog should need to have her milk dried up 
 during weaning except in the case of a loss of the litter, 
 nor should she have to be fed on a low diet in order to 
 assist in drying up her milk supply. It should all come 
 in the natural course of events and will, if the weaning 
 is done with common sense and care. 
 
 While on this subject, it would be well to mention that 
 if a bitch loses her pups or they are born dead, one must 
 attend to her milk. It should be gently drawn oif as it 
 accumulates, never allowing any hardening to take place 
 and the breasts may be rubbed gently with camphorated 
 oil night and morning. Feed her very low and keep her 
 quiet, giving her no liquids at all for a few days. Small 
 doses of salts are useful until the milk disappears. 
 
 Healthy, well raised puppies should be able to go to 
 new homes in comparative safety when they are eight 
 weeks old, but winter whelps are often backward owing 
 to lack of open air and exercise and they might need to 
 be kept at home longer. 
 
 I do not think anyone finds winter puppies worth the 
 trouble they undoubtedly are and it is good advice for any 
 breeder to arrange his matings so that his young stock 
 will be at least three months old by December. 
 
 A puppy from weaning until he is eight weeks old 
 should be fed raw meat once a day and other meals 
 (of which there should be four daily until the pups are 
 that age) should consist of any well-cooked cereals, or 
 Force, Shredded Wheat, etc., with Lactol for preference, 
 or good soups. 
 
 Stale whole wheat bread is very good and almost more 
 desirable than too many cereals. 
 
ON THE CARE OF A BITCH 81 
 
 KalFos should of course be given all puppies once a 
 day until they reach maturity, and it may be mixed in 
 their dinner. 
 
 It is never advisable to feed a number of puppies out 
 of one dish. The stronger ones will certainly crowd the 
 weaker or smaller ones out and get more than sufficient 
 food. Hardly any two puppies need the same amount 
 of food even at weaning time, so each one should be fed 
 alone. 
 
 Worming should be done regularly once a month from 
 six weeks old up to a year. 
 
 It is perhaps hardly necessary to say that cleanliness, 
 open air, exercise and regular feeding hours are essentials 
 in the successful raising of litters of puppies. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 ON KENNELS 
 
 This chapter will deal with the housing of dogs, and 
 is especially written with a view to helping the owner of 
 a few dogs who wishes to erect suitable kennels. 
 
 In the first place, it is very emphatically desirable to 
 plan to house only a few dogs under one roof. Distrib- 
 ute them in several smaller buildings according to their 
 numbers and so give yourself a chance to isolate easily 
 should contagious illness get in your kennels. 
 
 It does not matter how near the buildings are to each 
 other (though it would be well to have them fairly far 
 apart), but let each be a separate unit. 
 
 The most popular plan for a kennel is the long build- 
 ing — longer than it is wide. 
 
 It is poor economy to spare any expense in its erec- 
 tion, so insist upon cement foundation walls. They will 
 ensure warm, dry floors. 
 
 The walls may be of double thickness boarding, with 
 paper in between, to give additional warmth in winter 
 and coolness in summer. 
 
 The roof may be of shingle or boarding, and covered, 
 in the latter case, with one of the many satisfactory roof- 
 ing compositions now on the market. 
 
 As to the interior, the front door should open into a 
 small hall, or office, and from each side of this room 
 should run the dog pens. The passage should run down 
 one side of the building and the pens should open into it 
 from the other side. 
 
 Each pen should be at least five feet in length and three 
 
 82 
 
ON KENNELS 83 
 
 feet, six inches in width. This gives a nice roomy home 
 for each dog and allows him a sense of freedom which 
 he cannot have when kept confined in a "cage." 
 
 There should be a dividing partition of wood and wire 
 netting between each pen and it is desirable to make each 
 partition as high as possible. 
 
 A small mesh is necessary for the wire, as most puppies 
 and dogs enjoy passing their leisure hours in trying to 
 eat holes in the wire. 
 
 In each pen there should be a wooden platform, raised 
 about six inches off the floor. It should be large enough 
 to allow the dog to rest comfortably and turn around 
 without the danger of rolling off. In summer this is all 
 the bed needed and in winter a close box can be put on 
 it for extra warmth. 
 
 There should be a window under the eaves for every 
 two pens and allowance made for two full-sized windows 
 to each four pens, giving on the passage. All windows 
 should be made to open outwards and upwards so that rain 
 can never drive into the kennel. Such an arrangement 
 will save a great deal of worry should a thunderstorm 
 start in the night when all windows have been left open! 
 
 As light, sunshine and air are the three essentials to 
 happy, healthy dogs, it is wise to plan for as much win- 
 dow space as is possible. With this idea in mind the 
 front door should be half glass with windows each end 
 of the building. 
 
 In each pen there should be a small, sliding "dog door" 
 which will give access to individual runs out of doors. 
 If one is cramped for space, these outside runs may be 
 only five feet long but in such a case they should only be 
 regarded as temporary, and the dogs must be given larger 
 ones in some other part of the property, 
 
 A raised platform should be in each run, for dogs love 
 to bask in the sun and it is a great joy to them ! 
 
84 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 In damp weather, it will keep them off the ground, 
 which is desirable. 
 
 It would be well to state here that every kennel erected, 
 should, as far as is possible, face South. The side of 
 the building from which the outside runs are built should 
 face this aspect. 
 
 It is also essential to build your kennel on high ground, 
 with a good slope away from the southern side or else 
 arranged for very good drainage. Dampness is fatal to 
 a dog's health and is quite the worst condition with which 
 they may have to contend. 
 
 A word about the heating of the buildings ! 
 
 Many people do not believe in heated kennels for ter- 
 riers even through the severest winter weather but 
 whether they are right or not is a question! Anyway, 
 most dog lovers would hate to go to bed themselves in a 
 warm cosy house, knowing that their dogs were in a place 
 whose temperature was down to zero and sometimes be- 
 low that point! Still less, could they bear the thought 
 of their dogs sitting and shivering to try and keep circu- 
 lation up, during a long, wet, winter day ! 
 
 It is impossible to believe that dogs enjoy shivering, 
 nor can one believe that they are any healthier for it! 
 
 Naturally, they would not require any heat at night 
 if they could be out all day long in perfect freedom, and 
 able to gQt into a warm shelter when they grew tired of 
 the wintry blasts but regular kennel dogs are not house 
 pets and cannot usually take refuge in their owner's warm 
 home whenever they feel cold! 
 
 Over-heating is of course as bad as under-heating but 
 a kennel kept at about 60 degrees would be ideal. 
 
 In England, heat is seldom if ever given to terrier 
 breeds but over there they do not have the ex- 
 tremes we have in America and so their dogs do not need 
 heat as do ours. 
 
ON KENNELS 85 
 
 The Areola system of heating is as satisfactory as any 
 on the market. 
 
 The boiler is ornamental and takes up but little space, 
 the fire is slow burning, and most economical in coal and 
 is easy to work. The heat is even and long retained, and 
 being a hot water system keeps hot both night and day. 
 Radiators may be hung on the walls in order to save space 
 and keep them out of the way and each dog pen can be 
 kept at an even temperature from the heat given off by 
 them. 
 
 The boiler and tank can be placed in the entrance hall 
 and if money is no object, it would be ideal to have a 
 hot water back on the boiler and connect it with a "wash" 
 room which could be built as an extension of the main 
 building. 
 
 Electric lighting is essential in every up-to-date kennel 
 and, if the entrance hall is to be used as an office, the lights 
 should be so arranged that this room may be kept lighted 
 while the dog pens and passage are in comparative dark- 
 ness. 
 
 If there is an office in one of the buildings it would be 
 a good plan to use the entrance hall of another as a 
 "trimming" room. 
 
 Sanitas Sawdust mixed with ordinary mill sawdust is 
 very desirable for use in the kennels. It has a delightful 
 odor and cuts labor in half if used rightly. 
 
 The best bedding to use in a high class kennel is that 
 of the Cedar Bedding Company. It has a fresh, clean 
 smell and is very inviting to the dogs. They love it 
 and it does not encourage fleas in summer time. If used 
 on the platform — previously recommended, it is neces- 
 sary to have a narrow board placed around the platform 
 in order that the bedding will not fall on the ground. 
 
 Cleanliness. — It is necessary that each pen should be 
 scrubbed out with hot water and Pearson's Creolin at 
 
86 CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS 
 
 least once a week. It is wise to keep one empty pen in 
 a kennel, so that it may be used, if after being scrubbed 
 on a damp day, the newly washed pen is not perfectly 
 dry by bedtime. 
 
 Kennels built after these ideas can be made to cost any 
 amount of money but it is possible for the modest breeder 
 to put up a very desirable building, large enough to house 
 about ten dogs, for a reasonable figure. 
 
 Build it correctly in the first place and the expenditure 
 will never be regretted. 
 
 THE END 
 
CAIRN AND SEALYHAM TERRIERS