CHICAGO WATER. WORKS. CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. BY EVERETT CHAMBERLIN. B ^IM&VM, CHICAGO : T. A. HUNGERFORD & CO 1874. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by T. A. HUNGERFORD & CO., In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, ■ C3f SifiKESIOE: /PUBLISHING & PRINTING CO./ Z i/CHICA CrO. INTRODUCTION The main purpose in the preparation of this volume has been to furnish the public with a more complete statement than has hitherto been attainable of the present aspect of Chicago ; this added to a clear, logical and sufficiently minute examination into the history of the city from its earliest days. The research of the author and his assistants into original and unpublished sources of information has been directed chiefly to the Chicago of the present, rather than that of the past ; the fact being that not only were all the valuable original annals of Chicago destroyed by the fire of 1871, but the old citizens, having lost in nearly every case the memoranda from which they were wont to refresh their recollection, have become less trust- worthy sources of information than they were a few years ago. This being the case, it was thought best to make Part I. of " Chicago and its Suburbs" a thoroughly logical and analytical, rather than an exhaustively circumstantial treatment of the development of Chicago. It is believed that the history of Chicago, as given in this volume, not only combines all the trustworthy statements of essential facts which have been published on this subject (together with some which are new), but exhibits the wonderful development of the city which the world has adopted as one of its greatest wonders, in a more logical, thoughtful, and instructive manner than they have been given heretofore. The author (or editor) is able to say this without egotism, since the credit of it must be ascribed to the Hon. James M. Binckley, whose important services in this and other departments of the present work are cheerfully and gratefully acknowledged. Attention is repectfully called to the full array of new facts brought out in Part II., especially concerning the railroad resources, the commerce and the manufactures of Chicago. The facts there revealed, and which great pains have been taken to substantiate, are CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. full of a significance which the author, averse to anything which seems like boasting or special pleading, leaves the reader to interpret for himself. One of these facts is that Chicago has already tributary to herself, (not reckoning as such her outlets to the East and their branches) one-third of all the railroad mileage on this continent. Another is that her manufactures have increased 137 per cent, in the last three years, and 1,230 per cent, within the last thirteen years. And her manufactures are being extended and her railroads being pushed into the fertile fields of the West, North, and South, with an energy which even the present hostility of the rural population seems unlikely seriously to interrupt. The tables of railroad mile- age are not only useful and instructive, they are absolutely new, having been compiled from many scattered pages in Poor's Manual, in Vernon's later and remarkably elaborate work, and in the latest official statements of the corporations concerned. Great care has been taken to verify details and to exclude all statements which discount the future — once a favorite habit of the West, now, happily, going into disuse (though the editor would not gaurantee that the reader will not find a little of it in Part VI., just as he would in the suburban prospectuses of any other city — even Boston). In the chapter on the Commerce of Chicago, the reader will learn that the largest jobbing firms of the city are doing thirty times the volume of business which the largest did twelve years ago ; and that there are now nearly a hundred firms in strictly mercantile lines which transcend the maximum of them. The bank clearings in Chicago during September, 1873, were just about $30,000,000 per week; and the total clearings for the summer of 1873 showed an increase over the corresponding period of 1872 averaging about $1,250,000 per week. It is appropriate to add here a reference to the extraordinary firmness with which Chicago received the shock of the panic of 1873 — her banks, her merchants, her manufacturers and her people, being less disturbed by the general collapse of confidence than those of any other great city, east or west. This was due less to any superior methods of doing business in Chicago, or any superior quality of her business men than to the fact that Chicago held the keys to the immense granaries of the West, upon which, more than upon anything else, the country depended for relief against "the pressure of hard times. Much is due, however, to the conservative habits of Chicago business men, and to the correct methods of trade INTRODUCTION. 7 which prevail here, and which are adverted to in the chapter on Commerce. On page 169 and those following are to be found some calcula- tions of the future growth of Chicago, founded upon the elements which have entered into her growth in the past and upon the rules which may reasonably be expected to apply to her developments hereafter. For the consideration of this question, the author bespeaks on the part of the reader the same unbiased candor which dictated each step of the calculation. On pages 183-4 are given briefly some important facts concerning the climate of Chicago, and the peculiar equability of temperature which prevails about the head of Lake Michigan, giving that favored district the winter climate of St. Louis with the summer climate of St. Paul. The crowded state of the chapter into which this matter is introduced prevented the elaboration, in connection with it, of an idea which bears with great force upon the destiny of Chicago — that is, the exhilirating effects of her climate. Not to appear extravagant, we will put it negatively, and say that the Chicago worker finds himself less enervated by the climate of summer and less inconven- ienced by that of winter than the worker in any other western city. In New Orleans or Memphis, to say nothing of the fear of yellow fever or cholera, and the other considerations that drive the well-to- do worker out cf the city for two months of every year, or keep him out altogether, there is the constantly weakening and wearing effect of a long hot summer, which detracts greatly from the nervous energy, and indeed the muscular power, whether of brain or limb, of every inhabitant, and reduces his annual aggregate of work, often by a full half. In St. Louis, the same is true, though in a less degree. In Chicago, on the contrary, the maximum of climatic aid to the nervous and muscular system seems to be obtained, in the prepon- derance of lake breezes which make every summer day (excepting an average of three or four in the season) comfortable, instead of intolerable and demoralizingly torrid; and the mollifying influence of the lake in winter, makes that season a third less long and severe than that of the Mississippi river towns which have our mean sum- mer temperature. There is no disputing the fact that there is more work in a Chicago man, whether he work with his brain or his hands, than in one of almost any other locality. Observation confirms the fact, and science readily furnishes the reason. Though it is hoped that this book will prove of interest and value 8 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. to the general public, it is expected to be more especially so to those who are interested in Chicago lands. Chapters bearing on this subject have been elaborated with reference to this end, and much effort has been made to present a fuller history than has ever before been published of the lands in and about Chicago, and the traffic therein. In the preparation of these chapters the author has realized that any intentional deviation from the actual facts of the case would vitiate the whole, and that consideration, if no higher one, has induced a most scrupulous care in respect to statements of fact. In the treatment of the suburbs of Chicago, it is but proper to remark, the publisher has been guided somewhat by patronage in the degree of elaboration to which any particular interest is treated ; but the editor has not in any case waived his prerogative of preventing exaggeration and securing justice to all, the reader being never forgotten. With these remarks, and with some reluctant apologies for the inevitable consequences of the haste in which some parts of the book were put to press, " Chicago and its Suburbs" is respectfully submitted to a public which has always manifested an interest, usually kind as well as keen, to hear something more about Chicago. E. C. Chicago, Nov. 16, 1873. TABLE OF CONTENTS. c PAKT I.— HISTORY. PAGE. EMBRYONIC CHICAGO, 19 History of the City from 1820 to 1830. A HOPEFUL TOWN, ------- 29 Little Beginnings of Great Things. THE INFANT CITY, ------- 42 An Eventful Twelve Years, which Included the Dark Times of 1837. A NOTE OF ADVANCE, - - - - - . - 53 The Snort of the Iron Horse. A SPLENDID HEAT, - - - - - - - 59 What Chicago Accomplished Before Taking a Rest in 1837. A FEW DOCUMENTS, ------ 67 Lists and Tables Pertinent to the Foregoing History. A FRUITFUL DECADE, ---._. 74 The Twelve Labors of the Modern Hercules. THE GREAT FIRE, ....... 7g A Calm Retrospect, with Useful Facts. AFTER THE FIRE, --_-___ 86 What Had to be Done, and How it Was Done. THE NEW CHICAGO, - 93 The Wonderful Reconstruction — Business of a " Ruined " City. IO CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. PART II.-- CURRENT RECORD AND DESCRIPTION. PAGE. RAILROADS OF CHICAGO, ------ TO i An Astonishing Exhibit. BURDEN OF THE IRON HORSE, ----- m What Chicago Gains by its Railroads. COMMERCE OF CHICAGO, - - - - - - 119 Interesting Facts Concerning its Mercantile Jobbing Trade. MANUFACTURES OF CHICAGO, ----- 128 A Remarkably Thrifty Department of Business, Hitherto but Little Understood. SOME CHICAGO INSTITUTIONS, ----- 144 Churches, Schools, Libraries, etc. BOARD OF TRADE, - - - - - , - 152 Chicago's Most Representative " Institution." CHICAGO'S CHARACTERISTICS, -163 With Modesty to Lead Off With. THE FUTURE OF CHICAGO, - - 169 A Careful and Candid Calculation. THE CAPITAL OF THE INTERIOR, - - - - 177 Something Further on the Same Subject. THE LAY OF THE LAND, 182 Geography and Topography of Chicago, with some Pregnant Facts about Dwelling Lots. PART III.- TRACTS AND TITLES. THE CHICAGO REAL ESTATE MARKET, - - - 193 A Checkered and Interesting History. LAND TITLES IN CHICAGO, ----- 206 With Special Attention Given to a History of the Abstract Business. TABLE OF CONTENTS. II PAGE. EPISODES OF TRADE, ------ 214 Great 'Bargains that Might Have Been Had by the Reader, but were Snapped Up by Others. VALUES OF BUSINESS LAND, - - - • - - 224 Prices in Chicago and Other Cities Compared — Cheapness of Business Lots in Chicago. STREETS OF CHICAGO, - - - - 231 Sketches of the Principal Thoroughfares, with Prices. CHICAGO NEWSPAPERS, 261 A Remarkable Record of Journalistic Success. PART IV.-- STATISTICS. TABLES SHOWING THE GROWTH OF CHICAGO'S POPULATION, WEALTH AND PRODUCE TRADES, - ... 279 PRESENT VOLUME OF PRODUCE TRADES, AND BY WHAT ROUTES IT IS MOVED, 286 TONNAGE OF THE PORT, AND DIRECT IMPORTATION OF MER- CHANDISE, - - -■;.;- . 290 TOTAL OF BUSINESS FIOUSES IN CHICAGO AND ST. LOUIS, 292 NATIONAL BANKS, ETC., - - - - - 294 CHICAGO AS A BORROWER, 295 PRICES OF CITY REAL ESTATE, 298 PART V.-- PARKS OF CHICAGO. THE SOUTH PARK SYSTEM, - - - - 313 THE WEST PARK SYSTEM, 325 CITY PLEASURE GROUNDS, 337 12 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. PAKT VI.- SUBURBS OF CHICAGO. ARLINGTON HEIGHTS (formerly Dunton), AUBURN, -.---._ AUSTIN, - 1 CHICAGO & PACIFIC RAILROAD STATIONS, CLARENDON HILLS, .... CLYDE, CORNELL, ...... DANBY, DOWNER'S GROVE, - DESPLAINES, ...... ELMHURST, ENGLEWOOD, EVANSTON, GALEWOOD, ...... GLENCOE, GRAYLAND, HAWTHORNE, ..... HIGHLAND PARK, - - HIGHWOOD, HINSDALE, HUMBOLDT, ...... HYDE PARK, IRVING PARK, JEFFERSON, KELVYN GROVE, KENWOOD, LAGRANGE, - - - LAKE FOREST, LAKE VIEW, ..._.. LOMBARD, - MAPLEWOOD, MAYWOOD, PAGE. 455 402 424 439 421 412 357 433 422 453 432 398 378 436 39 6 445 415 393 395 418 434 352 442 447 435 355 417 39 6 343 432 439 428 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 13 PAGE. MELROSE, - - - 430 MONT CLARE, 436 MONTROSE, 446 MOUNT FOREST, 411 NORTH EVANSTON, 383 NORTHWESTERN RAILROAD CAR SHOPS, - - - 422 NORWOOD PARK, 448 OAKLAND, - - C 354 OAK PARK, 426 OAKWOOD, 369 PACIFIC, 436 PALATINE, - - 458 PARK RIDGE, 451 PARKSIDE, 357 RAVENSWOOD, 370 RIDGELAND, - - -- 425 RIDGELAWN, - 450 RIVER FOREST, - - 427 RIVER PARK, - . . 437 RIVERSIDE, . 415 ROGERS' PARK, - - - - . . 374 ROSEHILL CEMETERY, - - - - - . 371 SOUTH CHICAGO, 359 SOUTH ENGLEWOOD, ,------. 403 SOUTH EVANSTON, - - - .. - . . . . 375 SOUTH LAWN, SOUTH PARK, 369 356 SOUTH SHORE, - - - . . . - 359 WASHINGTON HEIGHTS, - 405 WILMETTE, - 385 WINNETKA, 39 o WOODLAWN, - ' - . . . . . - 356 -~J>-^* Chicago Water-works, - Fort Dearborn in 1850, Chicago Post Office and Custom House, Unity Church, - Chamber of Commerce, - View of Chicago River, - Palmer House, - Field, Leiter & Co.'s Store, Springer Block, - - - Fine Art Building, - Geo. A. Springer's Residence, - James Bolton's Residence, Edson Keith's Residence, Louis Wahl's Residence, - Eli Bates' Residence, - O. W. Potter's Residence, Bachelder Building, ... Pacific Hotel, - Air Line Elevator, ... Sherman House, - Colehour Building, First Congregational Church, - View of Ashland Avenue, Samuel J. Walker's Residence, - " Tribune" Building, ... PAGE. Frontispiece. 16 98 - 145 160 192 230 232 235 - 237 239 240 241 . 242 244 - 245 246 - 247 249 - 251 252 - 253 254 256 262 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 15 PAGB. "Times" Building, -------- 266 "Inter-Ocean" Building, - - - - - 269 "Staats-Zeitung" Building, - - - - - - 270 " Evening Journal" Building, ----- 272 Daniel Goodwin's Residence, Lake View, - 344 Frank W. Palmer's Residence, Lake View, - 345 W. C. Goudy's Residence, Lake View, ----- 346 T. B. Waller's Residence, Lake View, - 347 J. A. Huck's Residence, Lake 'View, - 348 S. B. Chase's Residence, Lake View, - 349 H. G. Spafford's Residence, Lake View, - - - - 350 N. B. Judd's Residence, Kenwood, - ' - - - - 355 Cornell Watch Factory, - - - - - - -358 View of South Chicago Harbor, - 360 Map of South Chicago, - - - - '- - - 365 Entrance to Rosehill Cemetery, ----- 372 Interior View of Rosehill Cemetery, ----- 373 P. L. Touhy's Residence, Rogers' Park, - - - - 374 Charles E. Brown's Residence, Evanston, - - - - 380 Union Church, Wilmette, - - - .- - - 386 Residence of Asahel Gage, Wilmette, - 387 Alexander McDaniel's Residence, Wilmette, - - . - 388 Wilmette Hotel, - - - - - - - - 389 Winnetka Seminary, - - - - - - .' - 392 Cook County Normal School Building, - - - - 399 John Raber's Residence, Englewood, - 400 South Englewood Depot, ______ 404 Mount Vernon Academy, ______ 408 Clyde Depot, - - - - - - - -412 Union Church, Clyde, ______ 413 James McKenney's Residence, Clyde, ----- 414 Maywood Hotel, _______ 429 Powell Hotel, - . - - - _ - - 440 W. H. Powell's Residence, -..-'_'___ 441 Norwood Park Hotel, - - - - - - _ 449 Ira Brown's Residence, Desplaines, - 454 •Charles H. Atkins' Residence, Arlington Heights, - - - 457 Sutler's store. Marine Hospital Soldiers' Store- quarters, house. Com'ding Officer's quarters. Old U. S. Factor-house. Block-house. Light-house Light-house, keeper. Ferry. FORT DEARBORN IN 1850. Our illustration is a most forcible demonstration of the rapid rise of Chicago from a simple military stockade to its present colossal proportions. Fort Dearborn in 1850 is faithfully- represented in the above cut, and though the background does not show the entire " city 1 ' at that time, yet the principal features of the settlement are all visible. The ferry shown in the foreground ran from the foot of Cass street, on the north side of the river by the old Lake House, and terminated at the fort. The hotel was situated to the right of the light-house. The tree visible between the light-keeper's house and the light-house stood outside of the stockade, between it and the Government garden, is the spot where, in 1828, the Winne- bagoes held a council with Big Foot, chief of the Pottawatomies, and tendered the " war wampum belt," as a pledge of their assistance in the massacre of the garrison. The Indians had gathered in from all sides to receive their aunual pay from the Government, and concocted their interesting plan at that time, as above described. The Marine Hospital, completed in 1850, was situated east of and near the stockade. Within the fort were the soldiers' quarters, store-house, commanding officer's and land offi- cer's quarters, and the block-house. The other buildings were outside. The small building east of the block-house is intended to represent the fort barn, but it should have been much larger and with an observatory at the roof, and the location is not quite correct. The build- ing seen over the roof of the light-keeper's house may be intended for the store of the Ameri- can Fur Company. As the city grew up, the buildings were one after another taken down, only the Marine Hospital, an imposing structure, remaining until destroyed by the great fire. «HK^ui* CHICAGO UTS SUBURBS T.A.HUNGERFORD &C M^aiTashin^toTiSt.ChicaQo.IU? h { \ \ \ - \ \ COUNTIES - iu its ni.A.vniARn. FOU 4 (QflillOiCQ) 8k MS SISJIBiUJlMBS \ T^^ttU3NlGE^glO^© & Go T.'.i (TBMKIIERS 9lAr9:.iWasliuiolo lfc St. thkaao HI* j ' ml % /tij[ij|., p ART I. HISTORY. ) I EMBRYONIC CHICAGO. A Parallel Imported from Europe — The Key to Chicago's Development — Origin of the Name — A Popular Fallacy Corrected — A Little Something About Joliet and other Ancient Frenchmen — Chicago a Graduate of Three States and Territories — The First Landlord — Indian Massacres — A Picture of Chicago in 1S20-30 — End of the • Ante-Natal Period. THERE was a time, not quite pre-historic, when the heart of Europe, drained by the Danube, and the great Mediterranean region, both already populous, had no connection ; the Bosphorus was not yet open, for the control of which nations still contend after two thousand years of struggle ; so important is the point of inoscu- lation between two great hydrographical systems. In North America, the interior River and Lake basins, heading in the same plateau, both first dominated by the French, needed only a communication of adequate facility to convert them into one in- ternal system and the greatest in the world. Near the sources, none such was practicable, but in a milder climate, and in the breast of a region of extraordinary capacity for a dense population, a portage of unknown antiquity was found, by a few miles of which even water communication at high flood was possible from the Falls of Niagara to the Gulf of Mexico. Near that portage stands Chicago. The Situation. — Thus, on general geographical considerations, a great city at the most practicable communication of the interior water systems was, at any time, before the introduction of railroads, at least, a warrantable expectation, when the country should fill up; except that no manner of harbor was found for the trade of such a place, and the only tract of ground suitably located was a drainless bog. The artificial railroad system has since partially remodeled the providence of nature, but has not cancelled the truth that this ancient portage was the cause of Chicago ; a port naturally destitute of every other topographical qualification. All descriptions on this agree. At two or three points, the adjacent soil was "a couple of 20 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. feet " above the water level, but all the rest was down within a few inches of it, traversable by canoes during a large part of the year, never dry, populous with aquatic creatures, and thick with rank joint- grass ; here and there, only, relieved with clumps of graceless jack oak, and an occasional dismal pine tree. From this miserable tract, a sluggish stream, gathering its waters with difficulty from its num- berless pools and miles of mud, with two branches, joined them about a mile from the lake, into which it passed over a sand bar, flowing, indeed, but only "ten or fifteen yards wide and a few inches deep." Yet, this despicable slough was to become a Thames for a 17th cen- tury London ! The Name. — A popular but superficial writer makes even the name " Chicago " an aboriginal memorial of the repulsive site. So the phrase of euchre players " sent to Chicago " instead of the coarser word " skunked " embodies the same error ; which probably arose from the name Skunk having been applied — possibly, in his disgust by a single luckless explorer — to the river Checaqua in Iowa, without reference to etymology. But philologists recognize the lat- ter, through various corruptions, as one of the Indian names of irate Deity — the thunder god, much like the Scandinavian Thor. " The thunder is his wrath ; the gathering of the black clouds is the draw- ing down of Thor's angry brows ; the fire bolt bursting out of Heaven is the all-rending hammer flung from the hand of Thor; wrathful, he blows his red beard — that is the rustling storm-blast before the thunder begins." Such are true associations with the name. Now, old settlers allege that at a point on a branch called Jackson's creek, flowing into the Des Plaines, the soil was continually broken by the striking of lightning in early times. A mound, long since disappeared, may have been, ages ago, a propitiatory shrine of the ancient Mound Builders, by whom many a human victim may have been sacrificed to appease the mysterious wrath which ploughed the adjacent turf with thunderbolts. In the later day of the Indians, this little branch bore the name in question, for the oldest map, (Franquelin, 1684,) calls it" Chekagau," while, to what is now known as the Chicago river the name therein given is " Cheagoumeinan." Doubtless, Jackson's creek was a haunt of the thunder god ; Skunk river, in Iowa, perhaps, another. But the dignity of the name is placed beyond dispute not only by its etymology but by the frequency with which, in the old French EXPLORATION OF FRENCH JESUITS. 21 maps of 1684, 1687, 1688, 1696, etc, the great Mississippi himself is called " Chacaqua or Divine River." If the name anciently local- ized deific wrath, the apprehensive modern Chicagoan may reflect that the stream so designated ran not into the lake, but into the Gulf of Mexico as fast as it could. The name seems not to have been appropriated at the lake shore until the French built a fort of whose early existence under the name of " Fort Checagou," in 1688, we learn by the Quebec map of that year; and then the name was prob- ably borrowed, not from anyl stream, but from the arrogant chiefs of the powerful Tamaroas who, after the manner of the Caesars and the Montezumas, bore the name Checaqua as a successive title, import- ing the attributes, or perhaps, the exclusive patronage of the neigh- borhood deity. In a manuscript brought from Paris by the late Gen- eral Cass, dated in 1726, the site of Chicago is called " Chicagoux," from which the settler's English tongue quickly dropped all after the round vowel. The Earliest Discoveries. — Historically, our earliest knowledge of this interesting spot was acquired exactly two centuries ago (1673). While the zealous Elliot, translator of the Gospel into the Indian tongue, was exhausting his missionary zeal six miles west of Boston, the French Jesuits had planted stations all about the Upper Lake region, but not yet as far south as the head of " Lac des Illinois," as they designated Lake Michigan. James Marquette, one of them, a man whose history is peculiarly venerable, having heard in detail of the Valley of the Mississippi, with his coadjutor, Joliet, set out with two canoes and five additional men, on the 17th of May, 1673, and by portage by way of the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, found himself in the great river in June. After descending as low as Arkansas, when, on his return, he reached the mouth of the Illinois, he was attracted by accounts of the interior, and of a better portage back to Lake Michigan, and ascended that river. Taking the Des Plaines branch, he was able to reach the water-shed, but eight feet higher than canoeable waters, crossing which he launched into the stream that conducted him to the lake. We do not know how long he tarried at the mouth ot that oozy lagoon, between impassable fens and the beach, ridged and piled with drifting sands. He reached his home station by way of the west shore of the lake, after a canoe voyage of 2,500 miles. Delighted with his reception in the Illinois Valley, Father Mar- quette returned, the next season, to the region of the great portage. 22 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. and in October, 1674, at a point probably not far from the Bridewell grounds of the present day, on the south branch of the creek, he erected the first white man's structure on the site of Chicago — a dwelling and an altar. Here he wintered; shooting buffalo, deer, turkeys, etc., from his door. In the following May, from toil, expos- ure, and original infirmity, he perished on the shore of the lake, the savages, by every affecting token, testifying their gratitude and their grief. French Occupation. — These missionaries and others continued their explorations, among whom La Salle and Hennepin are conspicuous. In 1 68 1 the former first passed over the portage, and by 1684 good maps, still extant, exhibit the whole district; that of 1688 showing that the lake end of the communication with Louisiana was made a military post, as before mentioned, under the name of Fort Checagou, a point thenceforth of importance to the religious propogandists, traders and adventurers throughout, from Canada to Florida. The map of 1696, by Le Sieur Sanson, Geographer to the King, is significant on this point. Thus, probably with little local change, two generations passed away, when, if not before, the fort was abandoned, and the region about it remitted to its aboriginal status, under the cession of Canada to the English, in 1763, by the treaty of Fontainbleau, after the conquest of Wolfe. Thus terminates a stage of Chicago's his- tory with which it has no connection but local identity, so completely seems the white man's influence to have disappeared for another generation or more. Chicago in the " Old Dominion" — Meantime opulent and populous colonies on the Atlantic were extending apace, beginning to look westward from the summits of the Alleghanies, and ripening for national independence. Fort Chicagoux, at most, had been but a French outpost within that great region bounded by the Ohio river, the Mississippi and the lakes, to which neither England nor France had ever made other than indefinite and technical claim, afterwards known as the Northwest Territory. In this condition, the whole region, including the site of Chicago, was annexed to Virginia by right of conquest, after the success of her own military expedition against the Indians and French emissaries and squatters at Kaskaskia in 1774, under George Rogers Clark. If during the Revolutionary epoch great deeds were hallowing Virginia territory, Chicago stands on " sacred soil " as much as Rich- mond; for over these prairies (on which, in those days, we have no "ILLINOIS COUNTY, VIRGINIA." 23 tradition of civilized presence) the process of a Virginia court was as valid as at Williamsburg, her capital, the whole Northwest Terri- tory, including part of Wisconsin and of Michigan, and all the states of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, having, in 1778, been erected into the * l County of Illinois in the State of Virginia." Under Good Training. — After peace with Great Britain, the cele- brated compact was made between Virginia and the United States, whereby the former, first stipulating for perpetual freedom of con- science and the press, for t^he perpetual prohibition of slavery and involuntary servitude, and for the admission of prospective new states on an equal footing with the old, divided herself by the Ohio river, and ceded all the rest to the United States for the " common benefit of all the people." Upon these enlightened principles, the great Ordinance of 1787 was enacted. Finally the Constitution of the United States, in 1789, was adopted, making " a more perfect union." Thus, fwith the later additions of land grants for schools and internal improvements, arose the peculiarly American system of territorial pupilage and state enfranchisement, of the beneficence of which the city of Chicago is the most brilliant illustration. Nor should it seem strange that the system issued from Virginia; that, in fact, the magnificent West now should be but the realization of her hopes, and the fruit of her plans ; for at that day, pro-slavery, as a doctrine, was unborn, and great enterprises were rifest in Virginia. Vast schemes of internal communication, organic trade, territorial expan- sion etc., were boldly projected, against all the maxims of Poor Rich- ard, accurately reflecting the then spirit of New England thrift. The possibility of reversing the world's course of trade, and supply- ing Europe with the silks and teas of Asia over this continent, by many thought to be only delayed by the Suez Canal, is accepted now as the boldest commercial aspiration of the age. Yet, in fact, a hundred and twenty years before Congress endowed the Pacific rail- road, Virginians discussed the notion with London correspondents. But, after the adoption of the federal constitution, this spirit was rapidly supplanted by doctrinal abstractions superinduced by mutual sectional jealousy, afterwards distorted into madness by the rise of the cotton interest. Had it continued, a Virginia Clinton would have been sustained in the then long-projected canal across the Alleghanies, New York might have been at Norfolk, and Chicago at Cairo. "Big Windy — During the Indian campaigns of St. Clair and 24 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Wayne, under Washington's administration, the Chicago portage, perhaps, saw no white man but an occasional British emissary. In the Treaty of Greenville, Ohio, 1795, where deputed chiefs from all the powerful north-western tribes assembled, after the exploits of "Big Wind," as they called General Wayne, to bury the hatchet, there is a clause providing for the abandonment, in favor of the United States, of "one piece of land, six miles square, at the mouth of the Chekajo river, emptying into the south-west end of Lake Michigan, where a fort formerly stood" — evidently the old French fort. This extinguishment of Indian title, in 1795, being in the na- ture of a quit-claim deed for lands, is sometimes called the earliest " real estate transaction " in Chicago. But in a more practical sense,, the next year witnessed the first private appropriation of land, which never afterwards reverted. The Original Landlord. — Jean Baptiste Point au Sable, a negro, at some point in the neighborhood of Dearborn and Water streets, then north of the river, in 1796 built a rude hut and claimed a surround- ing tract. It is believed that no other civilized person frequented the vicinity, though the fur trade, afterwards so considerable, was at that time gathering Indians and traders. A Frenchman named Le Mai, a trader, succeeded him in his dwelling and claim, who, after several years' occupation, sold in turn to a man subsequently of con- siderable note in the settlement, John Kinzie, residing then with his family at the mouth of the St. Joseph River, on the eastern shore of the lake, now in Michigan. He was agent of Astor's celebrated American Fur Company. His son, John H. Kinzie, then a child, was afterwards a distinguished citizen of Chicago. Kinzie held pos- session of the claim, but did not bring his family to it for a time. Fort Dearborn Established. — In 1803, the acquisition of Louisiana refreshed all manner of western enterprises, and redoubled President Jefferson's zeal for trans-Mississippi exploration. The activity of British intrigue rendered the Indians threatening. Under all these circumstances, the government established Fort Dearborn, probably on the exact site of the old French structure, and garrisoned it with fifty men and three pieces of artillery. The little schooner " Tracy" bringing this force is the earliest known marine arrival at Chicago.. Kinzie thereupon brought his family, for whom he had developed the original hut into a comfortable home — the first family domicile in the place. This was in 1804. The same year, Captains Lewis, and Clarke were sent by the government upon their celebrated ex- pedition across the Rocky Mountains. CHICAGO WHILE IN WISCONSIN. 25 John H. Kinzie remembers being taught his letters in his father's log hut, in the winter of 1810, by Robert A. Forsythe, the boy being then under seven years old. For the sake of an initial date for edu- cation in Chicago, this act of tuition has generally been treated as the earliest schooling. In 1820, a school was conducted by a soldier from the fort; and earlier than this, viz., in 1816, William L. Cox, a soldier, had conducted a school in a little hut originally made for a bake-house during the former occupation of the fort, situated at what is now the corner of Michigan and Pine streets. The Kinzie children, including two girls, and three or four children of soldiers, constituted his little charge. Chicago in Wisconsin. — Meantime, emigration, partially retarded hitherto by the Indian war, pressed west in an unprecedented tide after the peace of 1795 at Greenville. In the south at various places it had reached the Mississippi, in the north, it was bordering Lake Erie, while the great Ohio valley was filling from end to end, and Southern Illinois was getting populous. Kentucky had entered the Union in 1792, Tennessee in 1796, and Ohio in 1802, and in 1809 a territorial government was established for Illinois, of which the northern boundary was a line due west from the southernmost end of Lake Michigan. Thus, at that date, Chicago was in Wisconsin. The powerful influence at a later day of Southern Illinois, settled mostly from Virginia, Maryland and North Carolina, both in the State Legislature and in Congress, might not have been tributary to a place under another jurisdiction ; thus it is no idle reflection that Chicago made a narrow escape, when, in 1815, Mr. Nathaniel Pope r Territorial Delegate from Illinois, induced Congress to make latitude 42 ° 30' the boundary line, thereby including in Illinois the ports of Chicago, Waukegan and Calumet. But, to return to an earlier date. Trouble with Indians. — The Indians, crowded by immigrants, and seduced by the British during the first five years of this century,. were everywhere growing disaffected, though the now extensive and lucrative trade in peltries had kept up in the neighborhood of Fort Dearborn a footing of good will. At this time, with scores of trad- ers, perhaps no family except Kinzie's resided outside the fort. On the 7 th of April, 181 2, a few weeks before the declaration of war against Great Britain (18th June) a large body of Indians assailed an outlying house, slaying and scalping its occupant. They approached the fort, but made no attack. Whites outside of the fort suffered, depredations for some time, when it was determined by the govern- ment to abandon the post, then commanded by Captain Heald. The 26 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. matter was greatly mismanaged. Accounts differ not only as to the responsibility, but as to the most important facts. On the 12th of August, 1812, a parley resulted in a promise of safe escort to Fort Wayne in consideration of the delivery of the fort, ammunition and all contents, to plunder. On the advice of Kinzie, the extra ammu- nition and arms were destroyed, and whiskey, present in great quan- tity, poured into the river, from which the Indians eagerly drank. On a day following, the goods were distributed, but the Pottawata- mies, especially, aggrieved by the loss of the arms and whiskey, were very unfriendly. On the 15 th, the military, of uncertain number, under a hundred, with a baggage wagon in which were twelve chil- dren, and accompanied by all the white people of the settlement, set out, but were ambuscaded within a few miles by great numbers of Indians. A fierce encounter ensued. By one account, two women, twelve citizens, and twenty-six soldiers were slain, while the wretched children were tomahawked in the wagon off the field — in all, fifty- two ; there remaining, twenty-eight soldiers, including Captain Heald, besides civilians. The Indians granted them their lives, upon sur- rendering, and all were brought back to the fort where they .remained prisoners until ultimately ransomed. Mr. Kinzie's family do not seem to have been in the melee. No surgeon being in reach, Mr* Kinzie serviceably operated with his pen-knife. The fort was des- troyed and the country once more given back to the savages, by whom Chicago's first white natives had been thus slain in their infancy, 15th August, 1812. Her Destiny Foreshadowed. — Such again was the utter vacancy of the southwest shore of Lake Michigan when, upon high considera- tions both of national defence and of the geographical significance of the ancient portage, in 1814, President Madison, in a message to Congress, recommended a ship canal connecting the waters of the Illinois River and Lake Michigan. Appropriate committees in Con- gress all reported favorably upon it, that of Rivers and Harbors, of the House, characterizing it as " the great work of the age." From thenceforward, till the opening of the canal in 1848, the project was fostered by the State Legislature, by Congress, and by enlight- ened public opinion throughout the country. In 1816, for the third time, the white man came to Chicago. Not only was the peltry trade of the upper lake region worth protecting, but the restive Indians, incited by British agents, necessitated a sen- tinel in their midst. The fort, therefore, was rebuilt, under the CHICAGO IN l8l8. 27 direction of Capt. Bradley, and garrisoned with two companies. It became immediately a rallying point for traders. The supplies for the garrison came from Green Bay, annually or semi-annually, in a schooner of forty tons, owned by the American Fur Company, or by Mr. Astor. This was the only water-craft, except canoes, known to the infant port. There is no evidence that a single actual settler was on the ground for over a year after the re-occupation began. There were, however, many civilians always at the fort. But the massacre of 181 2, and the Indian participation in the war with the British, restricted confidence to what little may be implied in active chaffering with the Indians. Kinzie, after some time, seems to have been the first settler again, reclaiming his old home, from which he was never more driven. In 1818, the State of Illinois was admitted into the Union. An Early Photograph. — At that date, we have a tolerable glimpse of the place. Mr. Gurdon S. Hubbard, still living in Chicago, then agent of the American Fur Company, accompanied the supply schooner in 1818. He found the Kinzie family north of the river on a spot by which Michigan Avenue now passes ; and Antoine Ouil- imette, residing, with an Indian wife, about the space of two blocks westward of Kinzie. These were all. A third, J. B. Beaubien, settled shortly afterwards ; but there does not appear to have been a fourth until Archibald Clyburne settled on the north branch, about three miles from the fort, in 1823. During the first year of this re- occupation (1816), Colonel Long, of the U.S. Topographical Engin- eers, visited the fort, in a tour of exploration. He again visited the place in 1823. His later report grows gloomy, when he speaks of Chicago with its three log cabins, presenting no cheering prospects, and " inhabited by a miserable race of men scarcely equal to the In- dians from whom they had descended," with houses "low, filthy, and disgusting, displaying not the least trace of comfort." Such a place " affords no inducement to the settler, the whole amount of trade on the lake not exceeding the cargoes of five or six schooners, even at the time when the garrison received its supplies from the Mackinac." He found the Chicago River entering the lake at a point now cor- responding with the foot of Madison Street, reaching it by a south- ward bend, where now art has long obliterated all traces of its chan- nel, substituting one in a straight line several blocks northward. In 1828, Indian hostility threatened a general attack on the settle- ments; but after the murder of a few immigrants, a large volunteer 28 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. force added to the regulars at Fort Dearborn and Fort Armstrong (at Rock Island), overawed the savages for the time. The peltry trade continued active at Fort Dearborn, but the site of Chicago was still a wilderness, though for three years the great Erie Canal had been opened to Buffalo (1825); Baltimore had organized the enterprise of a railroad to the Ohio River (1828); Congress had three times legislated for opening the portage for water-craft between the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi basins, calculated to necessi- tate a city at the mouth of the Chicago River; the Legislature of Illinois had provided the requisite practical measures, and such a canal had become the settled policy of the nation and of the state, enjoying the countenance of the ablest commercial and political sagacity of the times. Yet, amongst the few occupants, there does not seem to have been the slightest appreciation of these great mea- sures until, in 1829, Mr. James Thompson, under authority of the State, arrived at the fort with the purpose of making an official sur- vey of the site. His map, which is the earliest of Chicago, is dated 4th August, 1830. Chicago in 1830. — Surveyor Thompson found seven families only,, outside of the fort. These distributed themselves between the three natural divisions of the ground. Clyburne was the butcher for the garrison. Dr. WolcOtt was the United States Indian Agent. John Miller kept a log tavern near the junction of the branches, and Kin- zie was yet in the fur trade, as were all the rest not named. Billy Caldwell, a conciliated Indian chief, was garrison interpreter. It is probable that no mechanical employments were carried on outside of the fort, and there is no mention of a store for the sale of mer- chandise. With patches of precarious garden in the dryer spots here and there, undoubtedly the miserable population procured all purchasable necessaries from the fort, to which they were brought from Green Bay by the American Fur Company ; and for the means of payment depended upon the profits of traffic with the Indians. The First Map. — In Mr. Thompson's map, the city boundaries- are laid down as State Street to Desplaines, and Kinzie to Madison, embracing an area of about three-eighths of a square mile, the tract on which the fort stood, from State Street east to the lake, continu- ing long afterwards a government reservation. Such was Chicago when its incredulous witnesses saw the first local steps taken for its development, or rather, its institution; for it has been said that even "up to 1852, nobody residing in Chicago considered himself perma- nently settled." A HOPEFUL TOWN Chicago from 1830 to 1836 — An Eventful Six Years — The Struggle for a Canal — Chicago the Natural Outlet of the Mississippi Water Route — Genesis of Greatness — Primitive Public Works — The First Harbor Appropriation — In- corporated as a town — A Snug Little Poll List — The Expansive Period in American Enterprise — How it Affected Chicago — Pure Speculation vs. Busi- ness Calculation — A Demoralized Treasurer — Sacrifice of the Wharfing Privileges. THE arrival of an official with authority to locate a town by survey and appropriation of public land, marks a point of such extreme contrast between the antecedent and subsequent few years, that it may almost be taken as the first event in the chronology of Chicago. A?i Eventful Six Years. — The next six years were to witness the establishment of a post office, a land office, a newspaper, the erection of a county, the incorporation of a town, the short-sighted sale of the school lands and of the wharf rights to individuals, the institution of religious societies, an Indian war, defeat and final expulsion, the first work on the harbor, the arrival within the Chicago river of the first vessel to cross the bar, the beginning of the packing trade, the institution of a stage line to the interior, the erection of rudimental draw-bridges, the access of an immense immigration, and a season of land and lot speculation of the utmost extravagance ; all in advance of the first actual work done on the canal. Chicago the Commercial Outlet of the Mississippi. — We have seen with what favor the United States entertained the great idea of con- necting the River and Lake systems. The Legislature of Illinois was equally zealous, and upon this, a remark seems appropriate. The population of Illinois, almost wholly in the south part of the State, provided, as they were by nature, with the amplest water routes southward, exhibited even at that day a marked and steady preference for a route to the sea through the northern lakes. This 3734 10,463,414 1853 60,662 16,841,831 1854 65,872 24,392,239 1855 80,023 26,992,893 1856 86,000 31,736,084 1857 93>°°° 3 6 >335> 28t 6o CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The following discloses the distribution of property with reference to kind and city locality, during the same successive years : SOUTH DIV. WEST DIV. NORTH DIV. Real. Personal. Real. Personal. Real. Personal. 1850 $3,401,512 1,232,214 1,326,271 203,885 958,182 98,185 1851 3,933,662 1,35^656 1,7 2 4,45 2 252,154 1,146,148 155,645 1852 4,414,466 1,844,280 2,357,642 2I3.635 1,418,661 214,730 1853 6,594,465 3, 00 3>444 4,321,909 398,641 2,2I4,3°3 309,060 1854 8,657,840 4,467,546 7,442,799 647,906 2,890,105 286,043 1855 10,400,279 4,423,527 7,795,93* 56l,775 3,441,290 370,091 1856 i3>425>37° 4,480,941 8,330^5° 686,150 4,137,788 676,685 1857 i5>33°>9 00 5,663,670 9,181,274 867,693 4,795,454 496,290 It will be observed that real estate in the west division increased nearly seven hundred per cent, during the decade, while personal increased about four hundred and twenty per cent. In the south division, both real and personal increased at about the latter rate, while in the north division, the increase of both kinds of property was about five hundred and fifty per cent. Trade Statistics. — During this period, the trade is indicated by the subjoined figures, touching several articles, for 1852, 1854, and 1856: Articles. 1852. 1854. 1856. Flour received, bbls., 124,316.. 234,575.. 410,989 Wheat bushels 937,49 6 - -3,038,955 - - 8,767,760 Corn .. 2,991,011. .7,490,753-11,888,398 Hogs " 65,158.. Hogs packed 44, 1 5 6 _ . Cattle received 24,663.. Lumber Hides Stone Coal Lead M 147,816. No 25,893. cubic y'ds 40,752. tons 46,233.. " 678. 138,575-- 220,702 73,694-- 74,000 23,691-- 14,971 228,337.. 441,962 28,606- _ 70,560 68,436-- 92,609 56,774-- 93,020 2,124. . 3,3*4 The total tonnage for the year 1854 was about one million; and for the year 1856, a million and a half; the vessels arriving the for- mer year being 5,021 ; the latter year, 7,328. For the same years THE LEADING GRAIN MART. 6 1 the total shipments of all grains were as follows : In bushels, includ- ing flour reduced to its equivalent in wheat, 1852, 5,826,437; 1854, 13,132,501 ; 1856, 21,610,312. The next succeeding year, 1857, this strain total fell to 18,483,678 bushels. There was a heavy fall in shipments of barreled pork, lard, hides, seeds, lead, and other arti- cles, but most of all in provisions and cut meats, of which the aggre- gate fell from 13,634,892 lbs., in 1856, to 3,463,566 lbs., in 1857. The receipts of lumber slightly increased, the receipts of shingles diminishing ; while shipments of both were considerably increased, as were liquors, wool, barreled''- beef, and several minor articles. Upon the whole, however, it is apparent upon a fuller analysis, that the tremendous shock of 1857 but slightly affected Chicago as a de- pot of grain, live-stock, and lumber, the brunt falling upon real estate held for speculation, and upon the mercantile trade. This is shown, to some extent, by the great falling off in the assessment of personal property for the year 1858, except in the North Division, then inhabited by most of those citizens who have much invested in the taxable appointments of opulent life. Chicago Becomes the Champion Grain Market. — The year 1854 marked the triumph of Chicago over every city of the world as a grain mart. Though 83,364,224 bushels, of which over half was Indian corn, were shipped from Chicago in the past year (1872), yet it required but 13,132,501, which was the amount shipped in 1854, to exceed the shipment of Odessa, or any one port, and to exceed that of New York the same year by 3,471,975 bushels. In 1852 the ship- ment from St. Louis had been foremost, and was, in 1853, 5,081,468 bushels, surpassed, however, the same year, by Chicago, of which the figure was 6,473,089 bushels. At this time the system of elevators began to be fully appreciated, and the pioneer steam elevator of Mr. R. C. Bristol, erected in 1852, was followed by more, until, in 1857, twelve of them were in operation, on an invested capital of $3,087,- 000, with a storage capacity of 4,095,000 bushels, and a daily capacity, for receipt and shipment, of 495,000 bushels. It would seem incredible that this immense business was done with the bung- ling artlessness of village usages; dealers chaffering with the sellers, mostly countrymen and wagoners, in their own stores or about the streets, without method or system, measuring cargoes by the half- bushel, and making of every transaction a bargain of special stipula- tions. To be sure, there was a Board of Trade, frequently in session, dis- 62 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. cussing public measures, applauding eloquent harangues, ridiculing strange ideas, and interchanging all the blunt, frank, and hearty offices of western good fellowship. But this body of men could not overcome the habit of feeling that the time spent on 'Change was in derogation of the stern exactions of real business ; a fact demon- strated in a manner rather ludicrous, by providing, after ample and convincing discussion of the expediency of the measure, for a daily entertainment of ale, cheese, crackers, etc., to be spread by the Sec- retary, as an inducement of attendance. This was first adopted in 1853, and worked very favorably. It was thought safe after a while to discontinue a practice which exposed the Board to some badinage, but experience quickly proved that the refreshments could not yet be spared, and, in 1855, the hospitality of the Board was revived with great popularity — too great, indeed, as persons not members participated in such numbers that an official was constituted to keep the door against bibulous and hungry visi- tors. But ere long, the Board began to develop a clear sense of its important position, and with the year 1856 its permanent organship of systematic trade may be dated. What the Board of Trade Accomplished. — The influence of the Board, however, from the respectability of its membership and the magnitude of the business represented, had long been salutary. The Canadian Reciprocity Treaty of 1855 was in a great degree shaped by its counsels ; the substitution of weight, denominated by bushels, for measure in bulk, of grain; the adoption of a rigid and just sys- tem for the graduation of qualities of lumber, grain, and other pro- duce, and for the inspection of them and other merchantable arti- cles, are among the principal fruits of their earlier usefulness. But in greater or less degree, a multitude of public interests were for- warded by the agitation, discussion, and by the resolutions of the Board. Of such interests are the bridges, wharves, harbor dredging, lighthouse, improvement of the Illinois river navigation, and especi- ally the navigation of the St. Lawrence and Lakes. From the be- ginning, the Board has been frequently urgent and persistent on these subjects. At one time a committee was sent to Canada, and committees were at different times sent to Detroit, Buffalo, etc., on business touching the improvement of navigation, or the facilitation of shipments in other respects. At one time — and very early — an attempt was made to supply the felt want of bank facilities by a great bank with a capital of five millions, which was advocated with THE BOARD OF TRADE AGAIN. 6$ considerable zeal. The boldness of this project in 1853, when the aggregate commerce of the port was but thirty millions, is one of the most striking events of that time at Chicago, if we reflect that now with a trade of half a thousand millions, the aggregate banking cap- tal (greatly inadequate, to be sure,) is but a little over ten millions. The record shows that the Board resolved upon the great bank. In those days the Board consisted of very few members, the num- ber being but fifty-three in 1852. The activity and industry must have been confined to a very few. The following from, the minutes in 185 1 deserves insertion as a/contrast to the importunate multitudes now present on 'Change : July 9 — Present, C. Walker — no transactions. July 10 — Present, C. Walker, J. White, J. C. Walker. Jvly 12 — Present, O. Lunt. July 13 — Present, None. July 14 — Present, None. July 15 — Present, C. Walker. July 16 — Present, none. July 17 — Present, J. C. Walker. July 18 — Present, none. The Board lakes one more Fresh Start. — • The eighth annual meet- ing of the Board of Trade was held at the Tremont House on the 7th of April, 1856. This meeting disclosed a self-sufficient interest, and, thenceforward, the institution was an assured one. Forty-five new members were elected, and the following officers : President, C. H. Walker; Vice-President, S. C. Martin; Secretary and Treasurer (as yet one officer), W. W. Mitchell. Before the end of the year, memberships had largely increased, and a suitable building was pro- jected for a Merchant's Exchange, and a committee appointed to prepare plans and solicit subscriptions. Daily meetings were held, and an offer of a building site on the corner of Clark and Washing- ton Streets, at $180,000, was promptly accepted. From some cause, probably a subsequent sense of extravagance, this engagement was not consummated, and the Board found, and was long content to occupy, satisfactory quarters on the corner of South Water and La Salle Streets, at $1,000 per annum. Rapid Growth of Merchandizing. — It is to be regretted that no system has ever yet been devised which, in certainty and simplicity, is practicable for the statistics of the dry goods and general mer- chandise trade of a place. What data are available for the city of 64 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Chicago under this head are exceedingly inconclusive, even at the present day, when it is believed that it may reach, for the year 1873, five hundred millions. Notwithstanding a dictum in the message for 1852 of the Governor of Illinois, to the effect that in Chicago, when the total commerce was about twenty millions, there were 211 "wholesale houses," it must be understood that wholesale business at that day, on the scale which would entitle it to be so classed now, was unknown in Chicago. Eight or ten firms supplied, however, a large country store demand along the canal, and in wagon-reach of Chicago; but the grain trade was large before jobbing was born. But between the opening of the Galena, and afterwards, in order, the other railroads, and the commercial panic of 1857, there rapidly grew up a great merchandise trade at Chicago. The numberless villages and settlements of Northern Illinois and Indiana, with some in Michigan, many in Wisconsin, and many all along the Mississippi in Iowa and Northern Missouri, as well as Illinois, had come into communication, more or less direct, with Chicago, by railroad, as early as 1854, and everything at that time testifies with what sur- prising promptitude they all sought that city. The merchants had been last to see the advantages of the railroad system, and yet were the first to enjoy it. Chicago Drummers. — Immensely stimulated by this influx, an in- tense rivalry supervened, until a million square miles were overrun by competing agents of wholesale merchants. Even in this, a prac- tice arising out of competition at their elbows, the Chicago mer- chants were really but blindly combining to advertise Chicago trade beyond all precedent as a competitor of that of St. Louis. By degrees, this broader antagonism made Chicago's "drumming" a matter of common cause. Thus grew up a prodigious trade in all merchantable commodities, which distant places, opening up railroad communications at their own expense, but multiplied by the mere operation of the customers' prepossession for Chicago, by which he would, as it were, annex a distant local system of communication,, even if it required him to build more roads, to that which was weav- ing itself around Chicago. Manufactures : a Beggarly Account. — In the way of manufactures, Chicago, even still relatively tardy, had practically nothing to show until 1853. The year 1857 found about 10,000 operatives, $7,759,- 400 invested capital, and about $15,500,000 manufactured product at Chicago. In 1850, the census shows the manufactures of all RISE OF MANUFACTURES. 65 Cook County to have been of the value of only $2,562,583, on a capital of $1,068,025, with 2,081 operatives. In 1853, the first loco- motive engine, and two other steam engines, were made. In the same year began the American Car Company, the Union Car Works of A. B. Stone & Co., and the Bridge Yard of Stone & Boomer, the Illinois Stone and Lime Company, the Marble Works of H. & O. Wilson, and a large number of small manufactories. The following- figures show a fair beginning for the year 1853 : 1 Locomotive Engine. 3 other Engines. 250 Freight Cars. 30 Passenger Cars. 10 Baggage Cars. 10 Bridges. 19 Turn Tables. Besides this, the American Car Company turned out $450,000 worth of work with 260 hands. Wilson's Marble Works, $15,000; four machine shops, $270,000; five carriage and wagon shops, $117,000; and sundry foundries, oil mills, brick yards, soap and candle manu- factories, leather, hats, caps, boots, shoes, furniture, agricultural implements, etc., etc. But there was ten times as much manufactur- ing product in 1857. Banks up to 1857. — Since 1842 there had been no institution in Illinois authorized to issue currency. In January, 1853, a banking law was passed. The Marine Bank of Chicago immediately organ- ized under the statute, and before it was a year old, nine banks of issue were in full emission in Chicago, besides the ordinary houses of commercial banking. Illinois State credit had rapidly risen of late years, and State bonds, and even those of Wisconsin, were deemed a satisfactory capital on which to issue bank notes, of which $760,000 were out before the end of 1853, and before the end of 1854, $3,759,000 from Chicago banks alone. It inevitably came to pass that currency was redundant, bank profits inordinate, and a spurious ingredient mixed with all exchangeable values. Real estate quickly caught the infection and was sold largely on time, entailing, through defaults and foreclosures, much apparent loss, apart from that incident to the general shrinkage of values caused by the hard times following the crash. The Crash Less Disastrous in Chicago than Elsewhere. — With local causes, which we have seen, for a commercial revulsion, it cannot but be considered amazing that more injury was not experienced by Chicago, on the whole, than the mere halt of her splendid career; 5 66 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. for it is a fact that the number of commercial failures was surpris- ingly small compared with other cities. We cannot think it too much to say that if the crops had maintained through those years their average, no nourishing city in the Union could have claimed such a business conservatism as Chicago, and that two years would have redressed every derangement except what directly resulted from a continual flood of worthless currency poured throughout the remote towns of the West, issued by obscure and irresponsible banks in the East ; beyond which money, distant country dealers and farmers had little to pay or to buy with, for years after the revulsion. Our Merchants Equal to an Emergency. — During the period of gen- eral panic there was a notable example of prompt adaptation of means to ends that reflects at once upon the sagacity and the generosity of Chicago men of business, very high honor. The wheat crop being understood to be much of a failure, dealers in the East rashly with- drew most of the currency which had been sent out earlier in the year, and to move the crops. The Chicago banks were thus depleted, New York grain dealers practically declined to buy, merchants at Chicago were without exchange for their Eastern orders and bal- ances, and ruin all round was imminent. Yet, here was a crop — a concrete, actual fund of marketable property. Under these circum- stances, the Chicago merchants who were suffering for exchange took the place of the New York grain buyer, bought the grain of the grain dealer, who was suffering for a market, sent it East on their own ac- count, thus converting it into exchange for their relief, at the same time relieving the marketer of the grain. There was, indeed, a very general spirit of mutual help, to which cause may be ascribed a large share of the comparative immunity enjoyed by commercial men of Chicago, during that trying time. Things that Were to Be. — The novel and successful method of water supply, the still more remarkable recourse for sewerage, the lifting of the natural street levels equal to a man's height, the paving of a hundred miles of street with wood, the dozen bridges swinging with the ease of a turnstile, the establishment of a place of reception for cattle and swine, as ample and as attractive as the barracks of a military post, the thirty large school edifices, and the four hundred teachers, the churches, opera houses, hotels, theatres, grain elevators, etc., etc., with a hundred other tokens of a triumphant and enlight- ened prosperity, all which the Great Fire found at Chicago, were, in great degree, in comparative infancy, when, in 1857, the commercial . STATISTICAL ADDENDA — EARLIER STAGES. 6 7 storm depurated the city of speculation, and left her to take coun- sel of experience, to wait for the development of the Northwest to overtake her previous expansion, and to get her resources well in hand for the next rise, five years afterwards, in that strangly undu- lating line in which Chicago has always advanced. Thus we take leave of her chronological history ; subjoining hereto, however, for the convenience of the studious reader, in tabulated form, most of the statistical matter hitherto used in this historical sketch, and a quantity of other data where they were reliably pro- curable. . C TABLE I. Differential Analysis of Chicago at Several Principal Approximate Periods. When Laid Out, say 1830 to 1833. When incorpo- rated as a city —1837 to 1839. Area in Acres, 240 16,400, in 1837 Voters (1P33), 29 -. Buildings, including shanties, 175. . Taxable Property, $19,560 Taxes (1833), $48.90 Hogs Packed, 3,000 Cattle " 550 Wheat shipped, bushels, Corn shipped, bushels, Vessels arrived, 4 -. Resident Population. 300 703, 492, _ " $236,842, in xi 5,905, 44o. 260, 78, 528, in 1838c?) uy , 1837 When the Canal had taken effect — 1848/0 1850. 8,640, exte'ed, 1847 4,182, 3-742, $6,300,440, 22,052, 21,831, 11,634, 2,286,000, 754,288, 693, 23,047, in 1849 in 1848 in 1848 u in 1849 in it in i£ Wh e n Ha ilroa ds were fairly opera- ting— 1854 to 1857. 11,500, i5,79 6 , 19,008, $31,736,08, 396,55* 99,262, 34,675, 9,846,052, 6,814,615, 7,3 2 8, 84,H3, in 1856 in 1857 ., in 1856 1 u . in 1857-8 in 1857-8 in 1857 in 1856 in 1856 68 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. LIST I. Business Houses of Chicago in 1839, from the Directory of that year issued by Edward H. Rudd. Population of the city, 4,200. Churches, 5 ; Schools, 7. Whole number below listed, 278, viz. : Newspapers. — The Chicago " American," daily ; the " Democrat," weekly. Dry Goods and Groceries. — Goodsell & Campbell ; T. B. Carter & Co. ; Paine & Norton ; O. H. Thompson ; Harmon & Lewis ; B. W. Raymond; Joseph L; Harmon ; George W. Merrill ; S. W. Goss & Co. ; A. D. Higgins ; C. McDon- nell ; C. S. Phillips ; H. O. Stone. Drugs and Medicines. — E. Dewey; L. M. Boyce ; W. H. & A. F. Clarke ; Philo Carpenter ; S. Sawyer. Hardware. — S. T. Otis & Co. ; David Hatch ; Osborn & Strahl ; L. W. Holmes, Boots and Shoes. — W. H. Adams & Co. ; S. W. Tallmadge ; S. B. Collins & Co. ; Wm. Osborne. Auction and Commission. — Stanton & Black ; Marshall & Tew. Commission and Produce. — J. S. Wright ; G. S. Hubbard & Co. ; McClure & Co. ; J. H. Kinzie & Hunter ; Dodge & Tucker ; Reed Bartlett, Books and Stationery. — Stephen F. Gale ; H. Ross. Lumber, etc. — Newberry & Dole ; G. W. Snow & Co. Provisions. — Newberry & Dole. Clothing.— Tuthill King; Paine & Norton; G. F. Randolph; J. F. Phillips; J. A. Smith & Co. £ngraznng. — S. D. Childs. fewelry. — S. J. Sherwood. Harness, etc. — W. S. Gurnee. Cabinet Ware. — Bates & Morgan. Liquors. — Isaac D. Harmon. Hotels.— Jacob Russel (City) ; John Murphy (United States) ; G. E. Shelley (Lake) ; E. Gill (Shakespeare). Insurance. — E. S. & J. Wadsworth ; David Hunter. Law Offices. — Seventeen lawyers, not listed. EARLIER STATISTICS CONTINUED. 69 TABLE II. Influence of the Canal within the first Eighteen Months after Opening for Traffic, viz. : ARTICLES, MOVEMENT OF Pork, pounds Stone, cubic yards Coal, tons Wheat, bushels Corn, " Oats, " Lumber, feet Shingles and Lath, No Tolls on Canal in 1848. ( 683,600 5,416 451,876 516,230 72,659 14,425,357 17,899,000 $87,891 IN 1849. 2,783,102 7,995 7,579 624,978 754,288 61,989 26,882,000 35,551,000 $118,376 TABLE III. Influence of the Railroads within the First Four Years after first Rail Communication with Chicago. ARTICLES. *ak MOVEMENT OF. IN 1852. IN 1854. IN 1 856. Flour received, bbls__ 124,316 234,575 410,989 Wheat " bush . 937,49 6 3,038,955 8,767,760 Corn 2,991,011 7,490,753 11,888,398 All Grains rec'd, " 4,195,192 15,726,968 25,817,248 ship'd " 5,873.141 12,932,320 21,583,221 Hogs received, No. . . 65,158 138,515 220,702 " packed, " 44,156 73,694 74,000 Cattle " 24,663 23,691 14,971 Lumber received, M . 147,816 228,337 441,962 Hides " No.. 25,893 28,606 70,560 Stone rec'd, cub. yds.. 40,752 68,436 92,609 Coal " tons 46,233 56,774 93,020 Lead " " 678 2,124 3,314 Vessels arrived [Uncertain.] 5,021 7,328 Tonnage of Vessels .. do 1,092,644 1,545,379 Population of City 38,734 65,872 84,113 Estimated total of Commerce of City $20,000,000 $32,000,000 $85,000,000 Asses'd Value of Prop- erty, real and personal $10,461,714 $24,392,239 $31,736,084 7° CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. TABLE IV. The Rise of the Produce Trade of Chicago. The years during which she was overcomi?ig the balance of trade with the East. 1836. 1837. 1838. 1839 1840. 1841. 1842. Year. Imports. $325,203 90 373,677 12 597,974 61 630,980 26 562,106 20 564,347 88 664,347 80 Exports. 5 1,000 64 11,665 °° 16,044 75 35.843 00 228,883 00 350,000 00 659,805 20 LIST II. Original Call for a Board of Trade j Chicago, 1848. "Merchants and business men who are favorable to the establishment of a Board of Trade in this city, are requested to meet at the office of W. L. Whiting, on the 13th (March, 1848), at three o'clock, p. m. Wadsworth, Dyer & Chapin, George Steele, I. H. Birch & Co., Garner. Hayden & Co., H. H. Magee & Co., Neff & Church, John H. Kinzie, Norton, Walker & Co., DeWolf & Co., Charles Walker, Thomas Richmond, Thomas Hale, Raymond, Gibbs & Co." EARLIER STATISTICS CONTINUED. 7 I LIST III. First Officers on the Incorporation of Chicago as a City, April 12, 1837 , Viz. : Mayor. — William B. Ogden. High Constabh. — John Shrigley. First Ward. — Aldermen: J. C. Goodhue, Frances Sherman. Assessor: Nathan H. Bolles. Second Ward. — Aldermen : J. S. C. Plogan. Assessor : E. A. Tudor. Third Ward. — Aldermen : J. D. Caton, H. Hugenin. Assessor: Solomon Taylor. Fourth Ward. — Aldermen : A. Pierce, F. H. Taylor. Assessor : Wm. Forsyth. Fifth Ward. — Alderman: Bernard Ward. Assessor : Henry Cunningham. Sixth Ward. — Aldermen : S. Jackson, H. Pearson. Assessor : S. D. Pierce. City Attorney : N. B. Judd. TABLE V. Statistics of the City of Chicago upon its Incorporation, 12th of April, 1837, viz. : Area 10 square miles. Buildings — Warehouses 4 Dry Goods 29 H ard ware .. 5 Drug Stores 3 Grocery and Provision . ... 19 " Groceries " 29 Taverns 10 Churches 5 Law Offices 17 Dwellings 398 Substract for Stores 27 — 371 — 492 buildings. Population — Under 5 years — 513 Between 5 and 21 years 831 Over 21 years .__. 2,445 — 3.739 Additional arrivals to 1st of July. 200 Negroes 77 To man Chicago owned vessels. 104 — 381 — total population 4,170 Adult Males — ._ 1,603 " Females 842 Assessed Valuation of Real Estate $236,842 Taxes Levied ._ 5.905 7 2 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. LIST IV. Adult Male Inhabitants of Chicago when First Incorporated as a Town, loth of August, 1833, viz. : Dr. E. S. Kimberly, Town Trustee. John B. Beaubien. Mark Beaubien. Madore Beaubien, Town Trustee. T. J. V. Owen, President of the Town Trustees. William Ninson. Hiram Pearsons. Philo Carpenter. George Chapman. John S. Wright. John T. Temple. Matthias Smith. David Carver, James Kinzie. Charles Taylor. J. S, C. Hogan, Postmaster. Eli A. Rider. Dexter J. Hapgood. G. W. Snow. Gholson Kerch eval. G. W. Dole, Town Trustee. R. J. Hamilton. Stephen F, Gale. Enoch Darling, W. R. Adams. C. A. Ballard. John Watkins. James Gilbert. John Miller, Town Trustee. Elijah Wentworth. Charles See, Methodist Preacher. Alexander Robinson. Robert A. Kinzie. ■■ EARLIER STATISTICS CONTINUED. 73 LIST V. First Fire Companies of Chicago, 1835. Hiram Hugenin, Chief Engineer. E-, Hook and Ladder. S. G. Trowbridge, Foreman. E. Morrison. J. M. Morrison. H, G. Loomis. John Dye. Joel Wicks. H. B. Clarke. William Young. H. H. Magee. Peter Warden. J. S. C. Hogan. R. A. Neff. T. O. Davis. H. M Draper. J. H. Mulford. Peter Pruyne. Ira Kimberley. W. McForresten. Alvin Calhoun, O. L. Beach. M. B. Beaubien. A, A. Markle. A. V. Knickerbocker. S. W. Paine. S. C. George. E. Peck. H. C. Pearsons. George Davis. • Wm. H. Clark. J. C. Hamilton. John Calhoun. D. S. Dewey. Hugh C. Gibson. John Wilson. E. C. Brackett. John Holbrook. T. Perkins. S. F. Spalding. Ira Cook. George Smith. J. J. Garland. J. K. Palmer. P. F. W. Peck. T. S. Eells. Joseph L. Hanson. S. B. Cobb. J. A. Smith. John R. Langston. Henry G. Hubbard. Thomas J. King, N. L. F. Monroe. J. K. Botsford. George W. Snow. G. W. Merrill. Joseph Meeker. S. S. Lathrop. Thomas S. Hyde. Jason McCord. A FRUITFUL DECADE. Some of the Things Accomplished in Chicago Between 1858 and 1868. — Why was not Chicago Called After Hercules, Herculaneum ? — Description of the Lake Tunnel. — The Canal Enlargement. WE do not purpose to treat in detail the period intervening between the panic of 1857 and the great conflagration of Octo- ber, 1 87 1 ; though the principal events of those years, so far as they concern the material development of Chicago, are placed on. record in one or another of the chapters which follow. And, lest the reader may accuse the author of a Hibernicism in referring to this period as a "decade," it must be explained that the ten years, 1858-68, witnessed the inauguration, and, in nearly, every case, the consum- mation of all the important public improvements accomplished with- in the longer period. A Brillia?it Series. — And what a brilliant list they form ! The same which to this day furnishes the preamble of all our banquet speeches, especially when the orator is from abroad, and wishes to refresh his hearers with a new and pleasing summary of their achieve- ments. The story has become a trite one, but as those who tell it are not always well up in the comparatively trifling matters of chro- nology, it may be as well to place on record the fact that it was within a period of ten years — two of them notoriously hard times years the country over — that Chicago achieved the following labors : 1. Raised her street grades, and with them her buildings, includ- ing many large structures of masonry, from two to six feet above the natural level. 2. Paved some seventy-five miles of her streets with patent wooden pavement, and demonstrated the economy and practicability of that species of road-bed. 3. Inaugurated a system of horse railways which have since extended to some eighty-five miles of track, and which now carry one hundred and ten thousand passengers per day. HERCULEAN LABORS. 75 4. Straightened the channel of her river, both through the land and through the shoal part of the lake, made so by alluvial deposits. 5. Built, or, by her business opportunities induced others to build, a stupendous railroad system, by which the roads of other cities were "tapped," and their traffic diverted to Chicago. 6. Put in practice a system of sewerage and a plan of special assessment which have enabled an unprecedented amount of street and local improvement to be carried on without individual hardship or any general complaint of excessive taxation. 7. Established the celebrated stock-yards, which afford ample accommodations for the reception and constant entertainment of one hundred and eighteen thousand two hundred head of horses, cattle, sheep, and hogs, in the usual proportion of these animals, as marketed. 8. Built a Chamber of Commerce, and established valuable reg- ulations and facilities for the handling and sale of Western produce. 9. Built the lake tunnel, by which was secured the most copious, the purest, and the cheapest water supply enjoyed by any city in the world, excepting, perhaps, that of Glasgow, Scotland. 10. Set on foot an engineering undertaking by which a current from Lake Michigan was turned through the Chicago river, and that stream made the purest, whereas it had previously been the filthiest of rivers metropolitan. 11. Built a tunnel under the river, and demonstrated, after many failures through inexperience of contractors, the entire practicability of this class ef thoroughfares, of which two are now in active use in Chicago. 12. Sent to the front twenty-two thousand, five hundred and thirty-two Union soldiers, of whom less than fifty were conscripts ; and contributed, including her share of the national debt, $62,000,000 of the $3,500,000,000 which the war cost the United States. At the same time, Chicago was discharging her duty as the metropolis of the West, so zealously that her title to that distinction became more then doubly sure during the war. The twelve labors of Hercules were very wonderful — so wonder- ful, indeed, that nobody believes the story of them. These twelve labors of a city which might not inappropriately have been named Herculaneum, on more than one account, are scarcely less wonder- ful — and they have to be believed. It is customary (and proper, also,) to associate the name of Mr. Chesbrough, City Engineer, with this conception, as well as execu- 76 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. tion of the two great engineering feats by which the city was supplied with pure lake water for use, and delivered from that pestiferous body of death, the Chicago river of the years previous to 1870 — both, as will readily be seen, desiderata of the first magnitude to the health of the city. The Lake Tunnel. — Was commenced in the early part of 1864; the first brick in the shaft at the crib was laid December 22d, of the following year ; and the citizens first drew the new water from their hydrants on the 25th of March, 1867. The tunnel, which is now (September, 1873,) being duplicated for the purpose of supplying new pumping works in the West Division of the city, is thus des- cribed in Colbert and Chamberlain's history : "The crib is forty and a half feet high, and built in pentagonal form, in a cir- cumscribing circle of ninety-eight and a half feet in diameter. It is built of logs one foot square, and consists of three walls, at a distance of eleven feet from each other, leaving a central pentagonal space having an inscribed circle of twenty-five feet, within which is fixed the iron cylinder, nine feet in diameter, running from the water line to the tunnel, ?ixty-four feet below the surface, and thirty-one feet below the bed of the lake at that point. The crib is thoroughly braced in every direction. It contains 750,000 feet of lumber, board measure, and 150 tons iron bolts. It is filled with 4,500 tons of stone, and weighs 5,700 tons. The crib stands twelve feet above the water line, giving a maximum area of 1, 200 feet which can be exposed at one sweep to the action of the waves, reckoning the resistence as perpendicular. The outside was thoroughly caulked, equal to a first-class vessel, with three threads in each seam, the first and last being what is called " horsed," Over all these there is a layer of lagging to keep the caulking in place and protect the crib proper from the action of the waves. A covered platform or house was built over the crib, enabling the workmen to prosecute the work uninterrupted by rain or wind, and affording a protection for the earth brought up from the excava- tion, and permitting it to be carried away by scows, whose return cargoes were bricks for the lining of the tunnel. The top of the cylinder was subsequently cov- ered with a grating to keep out floating logs, fish, etc. A sluice made in the side of the crib was opened to let in the water, and a light-house was intended to be built over all, serving the double purpose of guarding the crib from injury by ves- sels and of showing the way to the harbor of Chicago. " Down the iron cylinder, inside this crib, the workmen descended, and began the work of excavating towards the shore. They laid their first brick on the 22d of December, 1865, and in twelve months more the two sets of workmen met beneath the waves, the last brick (which was a stone) being laid by Mayor Rice on the 6th of December, 1866. " The inside width of the tunnel is five feet, and the inside height five feet and two inches, the top and bottom arches being semicircles. It is lined with brick masonry eight inches thick, in two rings or shells, the bricks being laid lengthwise of the tunnel, with toothing joints. The bottom of the inside surface of the bore at the east end is sixty-six feet below water level, or sixty-four feet below city datum, and THE LAKE TUNNEL. 77 has a gradual slope toward the shore of two feet per mile, falling four feet in the whole distance, to admit of it being thoroughly emptied in case of repairs, the water being shut off" at the crib by means of agate. The lower half of the bore is constructed in such a manner that the bricks lie against the clay, while in the upper half the bricks are wedged in between the brick and the clay, thus preventing any danger which might result from the tremendous pressure which, it was feared, might burst out the tunnel. " From this tunnel, water was first supplied to the hydrants of the city, March 25th, 1867, and from that time forward the people of Chicago had a bountiful supply of the best water in the world, always clear, as being taken from a point in the lake too far removed from the shore to admit of fouling from the city sewerage, or the washings of the land surface in a storm. " The tunnel will deliver under a head of two feet, 19,000,000 gallons of water daily ; under a head of eight feet, 38,000,000 gallons daily, and under a head of eighteen feet, 57,000,000 gallons daily. The velocities for the above quantities will be one and four-tenths miles per hour, head being two feet ; head being eight feet, tho velocity will be two and three-tenths miles per hour ; and the head being eighteen feet the velocity will be four and two-tenths miles per hour. By these means it will be competent to supply one million people with fifty-seven gallons each per day, with a head of eighteen feet." The crying necessity which existed seven or eight years ago for a means of obtaining water from a point far out into the lake,. has, in great measure, passed away, the lake being now the head waters of the stream which passes through the city, instead of the depository of such of its filth as the sluggish current, occasionally to be seen, was able to ward off. Yet, the success of the system has been so great, and the feeling of perfect immunity from liability to anything unpleasant in regard to the water supply has been made so strong, by six years and more of uninterrupted use, that any proposition to accept any fountain-head short of the favorite crib, would prove exceedingly unpopular. Hence, we see the construction corps of the Water Board bravely tunneling away, for the additional supply, a mile and a half, at least, past the point where is reached a fluid as absolutely pure as any in Lake Michigan. The highest daily consumption of water in Chicago has been but little over 30,000,000 gallons, or (say) 75 gallons to each inhabitant — an amount ^ till far inside the daily pumping capacity of the works. Indeed, one engine of the three in operation at the works has a capacity of 36,000,000 gallons per day; yet the immense dis- tances over which the water has now to be delivered so dissipates the pressure, as to necessitate the additional pumping works referred to, which are expected to be built and operating by the close of 1874. The Canal Deepened. — The deepening of the Illinois and Michi- 78 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. gan Canal, by the city of Chicago, has been referred to. This was undertaken in 1866, chiefly as a sanitary measure, in pursuance of an act passed February 16, 1865, in the State Legislature, which act authorized the city to issue bonds to the amount received for the completion of the work, and gave it a lien on the canal and its tolls to the amount of $2,500,000. (It was the taking up of this lien — something which the State had reserved to itself the option of doing — ■ that constituted the aid contributed to the city by the State, after the great fire.) The improvement consisted mainly of cutting down the canal, mostly through solid rock, for a distance of twenty- six miles, to a level eight and a half feet below the level of Lake Michigan. This work was prosecuted with varying energy, and* its feasibility was much criticised by a portion of the press; so that, before its completion, the public had become well nigh persuaded that it would be a failure. Their agreeable disappointment may be imagined when, on the morning of the 16th of July, the gates having been opened the day before, the river was found to have changed its black, greasy body for a bright, gray stream, with a decidedly perceptible current tending towards what had been hitherto called up-stream, and bearing along with it most refreshing whiffs of cold lake air! It was an event as unique and poetical in its development as it was splendid in its conception, and beneficent in its results. The operations of the canal drain, in purifying the contents of the Chicago River exceed the most sanguine expectations, nor are there, — except for a brief season before the breaking up of the ice in spring — any unpleasant consequences to the people along tbe canal be- tween Chicago and the Illinois River. The North Branch of the river is not materially benefited by the canal drain, and a project is now on foot, sustained by a $200,000 appropriation by the city government last July, to connect the river with the lake, north of the city limits, and thus ensure a current sim- ilar to that which purifies the main river and the South Branch. Railroads and Other Public Improvements. — As already intimated, the grand railroad system of which Chicago is the center, received its greatest impetus during the fruitful decade to which we are re- ferring. What this system includes, and what trade it commands, are told in a subsequent chapter devoted to that subject. Some idea of the extent of the street improvements and other public works which were conceived, and, in large degree, executed during this period may be gained from the tables of statistics at the close of Part II. mmim m mm THE GREAT FIRE. Circumstances of the Memorable Conflagration of 1871 — Incidents of the Fire — The Area Desolated — The Values Destroyed — Fatalities to Life — Insurance and Other Statistics — The Suffering Caused — A World to the Rescue — Resumption of Business — Chicago Disappoints Both Friends and Enemies. IT is not our intention to give here a full account of the great conflagration of October 8, 9, 10, 187 1, by which the whole cen- tral portion of the city, and so much of the residence portion as embraced the homes of near 100,000 people, were reduced to ashes in a more literal sense than had ever before happened on any such scale since the creation of the world and its inhabitation by man. The story fills a volume itself — was made, indeed, to fill several volumes by the enterprising authors and publishers who, immediately after that startling episode, proceeded to turn an honest penny, by supplying without delay the eager demand for full information on a sub- ject of such absorbing interest. It is from the pages of the history compiled directly after the fire by Mr. E. Colbert, and the editor of the present volume, that the most of the facts contained in this chapter are derived; the developments of the last two years fur- nishing the cue to some important corrections and additions. Prepared for the Sacrifice. — The calamity broke upon the city on the night of the 8th of October. For three or four weeks preceding that date had been very dry, and during the week immediately pre- ceding there had been much dry, hot wind from the southwest. On the night of the 8th, which was Sunday, this wind was blowing at a fearful rate. On Saturday night there had been a very disastrous fire in the southwest quarter of the city, burning over several acres of wooden buildings, and figuring in the next morning's journals as the most extensive fire in Chicago since the early part of 1867. This was forgotten, however, in the hundred times more disastrous conflagration which followed. 8o CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Origin of the Fire, etc. — By all accounts, the great conflagration had its inception a little after nine o'clock on the evening of the 9th, in a shanty on De Koven Street — one of the many hundreds of such shanties which abounded in that neighborhood. The origin of the calamity is with equal unanimity attributed to the source which has become famous in this connection — the upsetting of a lamp by Mrs. O'Leary's ill-tempered cow. The flames spread with a rapidity quite unprecedented, and which the fire department — a brave but badly-officered organization — was utterly unable to check. The condition of the department was simply that of complete impotence, and would still have been so, perhaps, if their morale and generalship had been the best, — so impetuous was the gale in its action upon the flames, and so much like a tinder-box had that part of the city become by the drying process of the preceding days. The fire swept onward so rapidly, that it overwhelmed and consumed two of the fine steam fire-engines set to oppose its progress; and it spread to right and left so fearfully, that it crossed the river nearly simultan- eously at two points a quarter of a mile apart, both of which points were reached in less than three hours from the first inception of the lire, at a point three-quarters of a mile distant, in a straight line. In three hours more, it was burning at points nearly three miles apart, and was making sure of everything, combustible or otherwise, that lay between them. By the time the flames had reached the business center of the city — say the quarter bounded by Adams Street, La Salle Street, the main river, and the lake — it had accumulated much more than furnace-like intensity of heat, and the air was so charged with brands and cinders, borne along by the hurricane, that even the most thoroughly-built structures offered little resistance to its progress. Edifices like the "Tribune" building, post office, etc., which had been built "fire-proof," went with the rest. The court- house, which stood somewhat isolated upon its square, and which was of by no means shabby architecture, offered no resistance; its walls crumbled ; its precious archives, including every vestige of a record of titles and of court proceedings owned by the county, were licked up without ceremony by the flames ; and the great bell in the tower sank down and melted in the ruins, pealing, as it went, its last alarm. Remarkable Features. — The peculiarity of this conflagration^ and perhaps of all other very great burnings, was that its combustion seemed to be perfect; there were none of those vast volumes of INCIDENTS OF THE GREAT FIRE. 8 1 smoke which we are accustomed to see roll forth from buildings attacked by the flames, there being always much matter, compara- tively incombustible, in every building. In this case, everything in the line of the conflagration went, as if it had been saturated with coal oil beforehand ; the fact being that, while the intense heat of the general conflagration had licked up every drop of moisture which the scorching sirocco of the last few days had left, the wind that was blowing at the moment converted the whole territory round about into one vast blast-furnace, from which nothing escaped un- consumed. .(_ No Water. — As already hinted, the fire department was early mustered out of service, and could interpose no obstacle to the remorseless progress of the flames. If their skill and exertion had been never so great, however, it would not have availed long ; for at three o'clock in the morning the house of the engines which pump from the lake the city's water supply caught fire in its roof (which had been built of pine !), and the engines were quickly disabled. The reservoirs, which are small, had been already exhausted, hence, as soon as the pumps ceased to work, the hydrants ceased to yield when eagerly resorted to by hundreds of householders in defense of their homes. But for this unfortunate occurrence, several of the fine residences in the North Division would have been saved ; also, probably, a narrow strip of the best built business structures, situ- ated east of State street, which were not attacked until after day- light, and which were defended by large forces of men, ready to keep them drenched with water, and able to maintain their posi- tions, since they were on the flank, rather than in front of the fiery column. The Population i?i the Emergency. — The scenes attendant upon this deluge of flame will have to be left mostly to the imagination of the reader who did not witness them, since no description — cer- tainly none which might appropriately be inserted in these crowded pages — can convey any adequate idea of the sights, the sounds, the misery, the terror, the sudden consternation, the frantic rushing, the manifold examples of sublime heroism, the still more numerous instances of base cowardice and desperate villainy which that ter- rible night and agonizing day succeeding witnessed. The inhabi- tants of Chicago, unlike those of the rural parts of the Northwest, who suffered in the series of conflagrations of which this was one, were not, as a rule, prone to take alarm and become literally awe- 6 82 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. stricken at the dread manifestation. On the contrary, many who had been gazing for hours upon the scene from a distance, failed to see that their own homes were doomed as well, and to take the measures of self-defence called for by the emergency. This was especially true of the people in the North Division, where the ruin was most complete; where not only ninety-nine dwellings in every hundred were destroyed, but where also the loss of life and of household goods was the most serious. This was owing chiefly to the cause just mentioned; and the rapidity of the fiery stream was not its only dangerous property. It advanced as a skillful general would push his army through an enemy's territory — throwing out separate columns, and pouncing down far forward when and where least expected ; by which means the poor victims found themselves surrounded by flames before dreaming their its near approach. Thanks, however, to the straight, broad, open streets of Chicago, nearly all of them thoroughfares, the loss of life through this means was less than it would have been in almost every other city. Fatalities. — The stampede to the west side of the river was at one time so great, that a crowd of people attempting to cross Chi- cago Avenue bridge, and unable to cross as rapidly as they poured into that thoroughfare from all sides, were overtaken by the fiery demon, and some forty or fifty of them perished in attempting to reach the next bridge to the north. The number of deaths from burning, which came to the know- ledge of the public authorities, either through the identifying of the remains of the victims, or through other equally positive sources of information, numbered about one hundred and fifty ; and the most intelligent estimates obtainable — those of the coroner and County physician — place the total number of deaths during or immediately following the fire, and caused by it, at three hundred. This does not include still-born children, of which there were many, at least one hundred and fifty women having been delivered prematurely during the day and night of the 9th.* The Losses. — Estimates of the material losses by the Chicago fire differ greatly, according to the basis of reckoning and the appraisal of values, always arbitrary. A few things are certain. There * For a full and carefully edited transcript of all the incidents of the great Chicago conflagration, together with copious statistics of losses, etc., the reader is referred to the work of Messrs. Colbert & Chamberlin on the subject. Chicago : Jansen, McClurg & Co. LOSSES BY THE FIRE. 83 were 2,100 acres of land burned over, nearly all of which area was thickly covered with buildings; there were nearly 18,000 buildings destroyed, of which about 2,400 were stores and factories; and there were but few short of 100,000 people rendered homeless by the calamity. The district burned over is bounded on the south by Taylor Street (to the river), and Harrison Street (from Griswold Street east) ; on the west by Jefferson to Harrison, and thence north by a line working eastwardly to and along the South Branch, thence north [by west along up the ])Torth Branch and streets which are nearly a prolongation of Desplaines Street ; north by an irregular line, losing itself on Lincoln Park near Fullerton Avenue ; and east by Lake Michigan. The extreme length of the burnt district is 3^ miles, and its greatest width a little over 1 mile. By geographi- cal divisions, Mr. Colbert gives the result as follows : NORTH. Houses destroyed __ 13,300 Persons made homeless 74,45° Acres burned over i>45° The same authority calculates the total losses at $192,000,000, exclusive of indirect damage, evidences of indebtedness, nor such personal effects as were not marketable. Some of the details of this calculation are as follows : SOUTH. WEST. 3>650 500 27,800 2,250 460 194 Govt. Buildings, Streets, etc $6,298,750 Railroad Depots & Stock 1,760,000 Newspaper Property (9 Dailies) 880,000 Hotels 2, 890,000 Theatres and Halls 865,000 Public Schools 249,780 Churches* 3,000,000 79 Principal Commercial Blocks 8,015,000 Grain Elevators 2,100,000 Lumber in Yards 1,040,000 Banks _ _ 1,000,000 J / ■ Dry Goods Merchandise. 10,000,000 Drugs " 1,000,000 Boots and Shoes " 3,500,000 Leather and Stock " 1,750,000 Grocers' " 4,120,000 Clothing " 3,650,000 Hardware " 4,510,000 Millinery " 1,610,000 Hats and Caps " 1,060,000 Paper Stock " 700,000 Musical " 900,000 Household Property 41,000,000 Other Personal Effects .. 17,710,000 ^Catholic . . $1,350,000 Episcopal 337,500 Methodist 355,000 Presbyterian . 465,000 Baptist... 80,000 Congregational 75 ,000 Israelite 55,ooo Other Denominations 252,500 Total , .. $3,000,000 84 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The public buildings burned included the Custom House and Postoffice, in which $2,130,000 in money, chiefly specie, was des- troyed, the vaults having been improperly constructed, and having therefore proved much less fire-proof than those of most business buildings in the city. They also included the Court House, with all its archives ($1, 100,000) ; the Chamber of Commerce ($284,000) ; the central police court and jail (called the Armory) ; two other police stations and seven engine houses. The destruction of side- walks (121^ miles) involved a loss of nearly $1,000,000. There were eight bridges burned down, worth $200,000. The great Cen- tral and Southern depots were burned down, the latter of which has been rebuilt at a cost about equal to that of both the former structures. Among the hotels burned were the Sherman, worth $360,000 (since rebuilt at $600,000), the Palmer, worth $250,000 (succeeded by the grand Palmer House, not on the same site, worth $1,250,000),. and the Tremont, worth $200,000 (since re-built at $500,000). Among the theatres was Crosby's grand Opera House, then the finest in America, which had just been refurnished at a cost of $80,000, and which had never been seen in its new garniture by the public. The number of buildings burned was 30 per cent, of all in the city ; their value at least 50 per cent. Of grain, 1,642,000 bushels,, or 26 per cent, of the amouunt in store ; of lumber, about the same per cent., viz. : 67,500,000 feet, and 2,000,000 lath and shingles. Of mercantile stock and properties, the loss reached 80 per cent, of the whole. It will be seen that the most of these sums are in round numbers,, showing that they are estimated. The computation was done from careful data, however, and has not been called seriously in question- It makes the total calculable loss of property $192,000,000, after allowing $4,000,000 for salvage on foundations of buildings. This estimate does not include the shrinkage of real estate values, which was thought to amount to 30 per cent, of the marketable values of the day before the fire, or $88,000,000 in all. The calculation rela- tive to real estate was made, it should be noted, a month or six weeks after the fire, when it had been found that the city was to " rise again,"' as the motto was in those days. But this estimate had to be revised,, in what way will appear further on. There was also a large loss to the mercantile interest by the inter- ruption of trade consequent upon the destruction of stocks and of SUMMARY OF LOSSES. 85 business facilities was estimated at $10,000,000 more, or 8 per cent, net profits on $125,000,000 worth of business.. We should, however, in the light of the subsequent month's history, place the amount of trade diverted from Chicago by the catastrophe at a much larger figure. Ordinarily, the " consequential damages " arising from the impairment of the capital of Chicago merchants would be expected to be very serious, since we all know that a merchant with large cap- ital can buy lower, and consequently sell more, than he with a smaller capital. But in the cases of the Chicago merchants, who had estab- lished an A 1 character at tjae East, there was not a disadvantage experienced that was not anticipated and offset by the generous aid extended by the importers and manufacturers with whom they dealt. Taking all these facts into consideration, and declining to reckon in the temporary depreciation of real estate as a part of the losses en- dured, we must still place the grand aggregate not very much below the $290,000,000 estimated by Mr. Colbert, the fact being that there were a great many sources of loss not reckoned in footing up this $290,000,000, one of the most serious of which was the enhanced cost of living and of doing business, consequent upon the sudden destruction of urban and co-operative facilities, forcing the people back upon more primitive ways and less comfortable belongings, while at the same time enhancing their expenses ; also scattering trade and population to the three ends of the city, and thus necessi- tating a vast amount of expensive cartage, porterage, and messenger service. AFTER THE FIRE. The Calamity of Chicago as a Test of Human Nature — A Rather Awkward Situation — Quick Relief — A Prodigy of Cheapness in Household Outfitting — A Period of Panic — An Epidemic of Incendiaries and no Water to be Had — Business Reorganized — What the Banks and Board of Trade Did— A Southern Seer and What he Phrophesied — Trade in Strange Haunts — Settle- ment with New York — A Splendid Performance — A Real Estate Manoeuvre of Certain Jobbers — Kindly but Careful Action of the State Legislature. AT the risk of being accused by the outside reader of a grim attempt at a joke, we remark, that the effect of all this disaster was somewhat depressing to the feelings of the population of Chicago. The fact will not, however, bear a much stronger expression ; and it must be added, at once, that the mental perturbation observable on the nth, was the result rather of the shocks experienced and suffer- ing endured or witnessed on the 9th and 10th, than of any discour- agement drawn from the situation on the nth ; — as good an illustra- tion probably, certainly as extensive, as was ever furnished of the wonderful elasticity of our human nature. That elasticity was probably found a little more perfectly developed in Chicago than it would have been in any city not American and Western, but yet it is by no means peculiar to Chicago. And certainly much credit must be awarded to the buoyancy of spirit which would attempt anything — hope for anything — in the face of a situation such as greeted the inhabitants of the destroyed city on the morning of the eleventh of October, A. D. 187 1, the day when the con- suming element was first found to be under human control. What was that situation ? A square mile of ashes and debris in lieu of the square mile of stately warehouses and rattling factories, teeming docks and crowded streets ; Three more square miles of blackened waste, relieved only by RELIEF FOR THE SUFFERING. 87 occasional chimneys or jagged walls, and made horrible by charred corpses ; A hundred thousand people without shelter and twice as many more without water, and with dubious prospects of food ; A city corporation disorganized, demoralized, and holding up its hands in distressful appeals for help ; A reign of terror impending on account of rumors freely circulated of incendiaries and robbers at work everywhere ; General and complete financial prostration ; indemnity being of course impracticable and salvage hopeless, — all the contents of safes that had been got at thus far had proved worthless ; No churches, no newspapers, no police, no telegraph, no public institution of any sort on which the devout, the inquiring, the timid, could lean in such an emergency ; — It was a situation such as would seemingly tend to discourage any ordinary community. Perhaps it was for this reason that the Chicago community refused to be discouraged. Relief for the Suffering. — The first thing to do was to procure shelter for the homeless and hungry ; surgery for the sick and wound- ed ; clothing for the naked ; protection for the defenceless. Toward this beneficent end, steps were taken as early as noon of the 9th, while the conflagration was still at its height. At about that hour, the Mayor and the President of the Common Council were laying their heads together to organize relief, and half a dozen cities were bestirring themselves to send articles which both instinct and reason told them would be needed in Chicago. By eight o'clock on the evening of the 9th, a car-load of provisions had arrived from Mil- waukee, and by nine the next morning, the arrivals had reached at least fifty car loads, and they kept coming until the Chicago author- ities were forced to cry " enough." Money came pouring in, too, like water, the cash contributions reaching $4,200,000 within three months, and being sent from all parts of the world, even from our antipodes. The aid thus promptly and munificently contributed, was efficiently administered by the Aid and Relief Society, a chartered institution, which happened to be exceedingly well officered, and which did its difficult task with sur- prising acceptability to the parties concerned. Barracks were built for the reception of the houseless, and then the Society began the erection of separate houses for families, the barrack style of life proving unhealthy, both morally and physically. Over 4,000 of these 88 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. houses had been built within the first five weeks of the Relief Socie- ty's work ; and what is more wonderful, in view of the fearful scarcity of lumber and housefurnishing materials, they had been built and furnished with a cook-stove, mattrass, bedding, and half a ton of coal to each, at a $110 per house. By the evening of the nth, every victim of the conflagration had good food in plenty, and all his other pressing physical wants had been attended to ; and on the evening of the 17th, eight days after the water supply had stopped, the pumping machinery was again got under way, so that by the next morning every household had water without being longer forced to buy it from cart boys who had dipped it up from places none too clean. A Panic Period. — One of the results of a scarce water supply had been an acute fear of further calamities by fire, the weather still con- tinuing dangerously dry, although a slight rain had fallen on the night of the 9th. It was generally believed that the town was infested by thieves who had come on from New York to reap the harvest which the fire-fiend had sown for them. Accordingly there was a general demand for a large reinforcement of the police department, which somehow did n't seem to count for much during those days ; and citizens volunteered by hundreds for patrol duty. Business Re-organized. — Chicago is distinguished more by her bu- siness achievements than by her social or political achievements ; and this quality exemplified itself during this crisis in her career. Before the community had time to compose itself for a square look at the situation, the business element of it had already struck an aggressive attitude — not formed in solid phalanx for defence, but deployed (in very queer and straggling lines, too) for a renewal of the attack. The merchants of Chicago proved to be of much better stuff than had been supposed, even by Chicago people, the charge having been quite generally made against them that they were too bold for safety in time of trouble — that they were doing a danger- ously large business on a dangerously small capital. Wasted Tears. — Accordingly, when the shock of disaster came, it was considered so certain that not one Chicago merchant in a score could resume business on anything like the former scale, that the press and people of " rival " cities could only refer to Chicago in the past tense. One of the oldest and supposedly the most influential of the New Orleans papers, after assuring its readers, shortly after the fire, that a large portion of our population had " deserted," and that THE MERCHANTS AFTER THE FIRE. 89 our merchants, such of them as had anything left to transfer, were " transferring their business to St. Louis," added : " No doubt the people of Chicago will struggle earnestly against their adverse fate, and that a new city will arise speedily from the ashes of the old one ; but it will never be the Carthage of old. Its prestige has passed away, like that of a man who turns the downward hill of life ; its glory will be of the past, not the present ; while its hopes, once so bright and cloudless, will be to the end marred and black- ened by the smoke of its fiery fate." This was a very natural view to be taken in New Orleans or Jeru- salem ; but New York, London — the East, the West, and all that part of Christendom lying north of the fortieth parallel of latitude, were ten times nearer to us, in fact and feeling, than our geographical neighbor at the mouth of the river over whose valley Chicago presides as its commercial capital. Accordingly everybody else, except the people in Dixie and the Moon, felt certain that Chicago would rise again as grand as ever ; but nobody had the prescience to predict during the first few weeks after such a before-unheard-of, undreamed- of calamity, that the resurrection would be as rapid as it was. " Elan " of the Chicago Merchants. — It has been seen that nine- teen-twentieths of all the mercantile stocks in the city were consumed by the fire. It was believed for several days that next to nothing would be recovered from the insurance companies (and, in fact, less than twenty per cent, of all the losses was recovered from the under- writers). Further, the fall business had just fairly set in when the fire came, and that it was utterly hopeless to think of finding freight- ing and storing facilities for new stocks in season to catch even the ; ' last run " of that trade, even if the merchants could raise means or credit to buy the goods. Hence the reader will readily under- stand that the business outlook on the ioth day of October, A. D. 1 87 1, was rather unfavorable. In fact, it was what might be called squally. The leading New York jobbers, of whom any one in twenty would, on that day, have given a round million to be indemnified for his own individual loss through failures supposed to be caused by the fire, found, on meeting their debtors in a fortnight later, that the ag- gregate loss on Chicago debts would be not over a million. Here is a statement of the case from the New York " Bulletin " of Nov. 2, 187 1, which tells the whole story in a nutshell : " There are about twenty firms, representing by far the greater part of the indebtedness, who pay in full at maturity. Another firm, having probably the largest indebtedness of any one house there, meets its paper in full, but at an aver- 90 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. age extension of a year and three quarters, and at six per cent, interest. One or two other firms, with a comparatively limited indebtedness, get extensions averag- ing from nine months to a year, and propose to pay in full, but without interest. Four of the leading firms, representing aggregate liabilities to the amount of $1,- 500,000, compromise at an average of sixty cents, payable at periods ranging from three to twelve months, without interest. This showing comprises all of the wholesale and larger retail Chicago houses that have suffered, and here we have an actual loss not exceeding $600,000. Making liberal allowances for the possible losses that some of our jobbing houses may sustain through the small retailers, therefore we think that it may be safely estimated that $1,000,000 will pay all the actual losses sustained by our dry goods merchants ; and this estimate is entertained by our most intelligent merchants. That this is far below what dealers expected, may be inferred from the fact that, on the day after the fire, one of our largest job- bing firms estimated their losses at about $1,000,000, reckoning, among the credi- tors with whom they would have to make liberal compromises, several houses who have since announced their ability to meet their liabilities in full, and promptly, at maturity. The favorable settlements have had the effect of restoring confidence among merchants ; and even those most given to croaking fail to see how the dis- aster is likely to bring panic upon the dry goods interest through their direct losses. The clothing trade was largely represented in Chicago ; but out of the eight or ten large houses there, not one, we believe, has asked for an extension over any great length of time. The result shows the Chicago dry goods merchants to have been more solid, financially, than they had been supposed to be by merchants generally, although the fact that most of them purchased their goods on very short time always made them favorite customers in this market. Those who held encum- bered real estate are pinched the most by their losses ; but even those are likely to be able to weather the storm, without sacrificing their property at its present depre- ciated value, by the aid of the liberal extensions which their creditors have readily accepted." The fact is that some of our merchants, notably the members of a prominent dry goods jobbing house (doubtless the same one re- ferred to as taking an extension), not only held " encumbered real estate," but went vigorously to buying real estate, on speculation, with- in three days after the fire ceased its ravages — their object being to develop values by creating a new, first-class, wholesaling district. This movement has proved so far a success, that there is a certain square and a half of ground, fronting on Madison and Market Streets, upon which $65,000,000 worth of merchandizing business was transacted during the year 1872, whereas, a single hundred thousand would have told the story, for the same tract, in 1871. The value has not, of course, risen correspondingly. It has in- creased, however, from $400 @ $700 to $800 @ $1,500, in spite of the general refusal of trade to be diverted from its chosen location of ante-fire times. A GLORIOUS RESURRECTION. 9 1 Business in Queer Quarters. — We have failed to describe, in its logical sequence, the steps by which business regained its popular status; nor have we space in which to narrate graphically, as the subject deserves, the remarkable and never-to-be-forgotten onset — "scramble," we might call it, if that were a dignified word — of the merchants, bankers, publishers, etc., after the few remaining stores and offices, parlors, bed-rooms — anything that might be occupied as a temporary place of business. Thousands of such were rented before the embers had cooled at the old place — before it was known whether there was anything left in the safe there buried. More than one merchant, wnose home happened to be spared, had rented a new place before going home to breakfast, after beholding the ruin of his store consummated on that dreadful Monday morn- ing. Mr. John -R. Walsh, President and Manager of the Western News Company, was, to the writer's knowledge, one of this enter- prising class. The Leaders Prove Plucky . — The Board of Trade, — the only commercial organization Chicago had (or has) that is worth men- tioning as an organized and representative body — was prompt in reviving business as well as in taking measures for the relief of suf- fering. On Tuesday, while yet a considerable portion of the North Division was on fire, the Board moved into new quarters on Canal street, and resumed business, having resolved, first of all, to require the honoring of all contracts. On Wednesday the bankers met. Their funds had been largely placed, as usual at this season of the year, out on " grain paper," i. mention, that his schedule not only omits several branches of bu- MANUFACTURES. 131 siness, such as the packing of pork and beef, but fails to include a vast number of small establishments which are devoted to manufac- ture, more or less exclusively, and which are really worthy of being embraced in the aggregate. For the present, however, let us use im- plicitly the figures of this statistician. According to them there are in the city of Chicago (no note being made of the establishments located in neighboring and entirely tributary towns) 660 distinctive manufacturing concerns, of Which 532 have been established since i860, and 182 since 1870. The total amount of capital invested in these establishments is $49,304,500 ; the number of employees, 48,429 ; and the aggregate annual product, based on that of 1872, is $122,- 481,000. The manufactures in iron form the largest branch or class of all these, showing a total of over $32,000,000; it being the fact, that Chicago and its vicinity produce more than one-third of all the steel rails rolled in the United States. It is also worthy of note, and rather astounding withal, that more than three-fourths of the iron manufactures have been gained since 1870, at which time the total annual product footed up at $6,862,467. And there are at least half a dozen extensive iron and steel works now going up in and about Chicago, whose aggregate product before the end of 1874 will not be less than $10,000,000. Without further preliminaries, the reader is given, in a nutshell, the meat of Mr. Schoff's report : 132 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. MANUFACTURES IN IRON. Rolling Mills and Furnaces ..-3 Foundries 18 Boiler Works 1 Car Wheel Works.. 2 Stove Works... 2 Bolt and Screw Works 3 File Works 3 Mill Machinery ... 2 Safe Manufactory 3 Cutlery Manufactory 2 Galvanized Iron Works 18 Steam Fitting Works.. 2 Steam Heating Apparatus Works 2 Machinery Manufactories 4 Tinware Manufactories .. 5 Miscellaneous Iron Works 14 Iron Bedstead Manufactory 1 Range and Furnace Works . .3 Iron Works 8 Steam Engine Works 5 Printing Press Works 1 Saw Works 3 Wire Manufactures 11 Scale Manufactures 1 Thimble Skein Factory ..1 Chair Manufactories ... 2 Horse Nail Manufactory 1 CAPITAL. $6,800,000 1,792,000 243,000 200,000 450,000 32,000 107,000 115,000 155,000 103,000 513,000 28,000 1,020,000 125,000 242,090 381,000 20,000 70,000 322,000 140,000 100,000 105,000 126,000 50,000 80,000 48,000 75,000 SUMMARY. Manufactures in Iron of every kind Established Previous to 1860 Tptal Capital Invested Total Number of Employees Total Wages paid per year.. . Total Value of Production for the year... EM- PLOYEES. 3,600 1,786 373 165 230 45 46 120 135 128 658 50 700 120 73 246 20 46 373 122 100 27 135 30 150 55 75 MONTHLY AN'L PRO- WAGES. DUCTION. $235,000 16-000,000 111,352 3,710,500 26,390 995,000 9,000 700,000 14,750 400,000 2,132 117,000 1,891 54,000 7,862 350,000 7,175 325,000 5,255 180,000 40,662 1,653,000 4,037 215,000 56,685 2.200,000 8,925 350,000 12,195 640,000 15.350 836,000 1,170 25,000 4,293 117,500 20,648 .1,043,000 8,606 360,000 2,125 155,000 1,318 160,000 9,210 226,500 1,500 150,000 5,000 500,000 4,700 150,000 5,100 300,000 127 .-..26 . $13,545,300 9,623 ..$7,294,680 -$32,103,000 MANUFACTURES IN WOOD. Cigar Box Manf 'r 2 Planing Mills— Sash, Doors 47 Furniture Manf 'r 57 ! Picture Frame Manf'r 8J Refrigerator Manf'r .2 i Packing Box Manf'r 4 ; Bracket and Mould. Manf'r 3! Coffin Manf'r II Hoop Pole Manf'r lj Ladder and Wooden Ware li Rope Moulding and Looking Glass 2 Shingle Manf'r 1 ; Cistern and Tank Manf'r 2 i Chair Manf'r 4 Stair Builders 4 Piano Manf'r 1 ' Organ Manf'r 1 1 Pump Mauf'r 1 CAPITAL. $ 15,000 2.384,000 1.920,500 540,000 150,000 85,000 12,500 60,000 40,000 60,000 204,000 20,000 6,500 183,000 82,900 5,000 10,000 75,000 EM- MONTHLY PLOYEES. WAGES. 22 $ 818 3,918 182,071 2,479 122,343 653 27,568 111 8,925 145 6,737 18 1,253 50 3,000 20 400 60 4,000 182 6,906 20 900 14 437 16,785 152 9,857 5 531 15 1,060 30 1,500 an'l pro- duction. $ 50,000 8,678,000 4,577,000 1,180,000 120,000 320,000 35,000 100,000 60,000 175,000 318,000 50,000 29,000 235,000 393,000 10,000 39,000 100,000 SUMMARY. Number of Establishments. Number prior to 1860 Total capital invested Number of employees Wages paid per year Annual product. _ 143 26 . ,$7,079,400 9,970 ..$5,672,196 .$18,607,000 MANUFACTURES. ^33 MANUFACTURES IN IRON AND WOOD. CAPITAL. Wagon and Carriage Manfr 37 $1,242,500 Spring Bed Manfr 5 50,000 Hoisting Apparatus Works ..3 110,000 Fire Apparatus Works ..2 400,000 Agricultural Implements 7 1,500,000 Car and Bridge Works ..4 1,950.000 EM- MONTHLY AN'L pro- PLOYEES. WAGES. duction. 1,173 $ 07,120 $2,534,500 53 2,000 145,000 260 14,000 570,000 283 14.300 685,000 1,272 77,468 6,285.000 1,775 104.800 7,250,000 ^SUMMARY. Number of Establishments 58 Number prior to 1860 .36 Number of employees . . 4.816 Capital invested ._'._ __ $6,112,500 Wages paid per year $3,386,436 Annual product $17,419,500 METALS AND TERRA COTTA. Lead Works , 2 Plaster and Terra Cotta Works 4 Silver Smelting Works .2 Type Foundries 4 Brass Foundries 12 CAPITAL. 125,000 100,000 900,000 350,000 573,000 EM- PLOYEES. 28 104 350 180 554 MONTHLY AN'L PRO- WAGES. DUCTION. $ 1.806 4,100 22,000 12,600 28,000 350,000 226,000 5,000,000 665,000 1,232,000 SUMMARY. Number of Establishments 24 Number prior to 1860 - - - -5 Number of Employees - 1,216 Aggregate wages per month. . $127,492 Capital invested... ..$2,078,000 Wages paid per year $1,145,800 Annual product $7,250,000 BRICK, STONE, ETC. Roofing Manufacturers Artificial Stone Manufacturers .= 3 Roofing Slate 1 Brick Manufacturers 16 Stonecutters 26 Marble Manufacturers 10 Asphalt Favement Manufacturers -1 CAPITAL. EM- MONTH Y AX'l. PRO- PLOYEES. WAGES. DrC'TION. 390,000 ■2;. -i.OOO 500,000 1.552,000 4,201,000 J.000 20,000 130,000 66 $4,350 354,000 122 7.137 500,000 200 12,750 547,000 1,472 77,280 1,802,200 2,416 188,161 178,000 321 13,7-20 3,000 20 650 SUMMARY. Number of Establishments - - 5 1 Number prior to 1860 --• [' Number of Employees. •"••'■ • ■' Capital invested $8,414,300 Wages paid per year - $8,669, 1 it Annual product. $7,670,000 134 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. MANUFACTURES IN LEATHER. Boots and Shoes 17 Whip Manufacturers . .- 1 Truss Man uf acturers - - 1 Trunk Manufacturers : - 10 Blank Book Manufacturers 4 Leather Belt Manufacturers :. 1 CAPITAL. EM- PLOYEES. L,895,000 202,000 3,000 181,000 160,000 100,000 1,304 15 3 214 300 40 MONTHLY] AN L PRO- WAGES. ' DUCTION. $59,730 425 11,356 13,412 2,000 $2,665,000 10,000 15,000 516,000 380,000 175,000 SUMMARY. NunYber of Establishments 34 Number prior to 1860 - - 13 Number of Employees - - 1,86? Capital in vested. - $2,341,000 Wages paid per year $1,160,808 Annual product $3,001,000 BEER AND LIQUOR. Brewers 10 Distillers. 7 Malsters — 6 CAPITAL. EM- PLOYEES. $2,7(52,000 985.000 460,000 303 142 67 MONTHLY AN'L PBO- WAGES. DUCTION $20,800 23,665 4,290 2,845,000 5,335,600 950,000 SUMMARY. Number of Establishments 22 Number of Establishments prior to 1860 5 Number of Employees 512 Capital invested $4,207,000 Wages paid per year. $50S,930 Annual product $9,140,000 CHEMICALS, CONDIMENTS, ETC. White Lead and Oil Works 4 Medicine Manufacturers 3 Varnish do 2 Vinegar do .:' *5 Mustard do 2 Baki ng Powd er Manufacturers .. _ _ " _ 6 Pickle Manufacturers 2 Socla and Oil Manufacturers .. 7 Oil Works "3 Candy Works .7 Soap Works .7 CAPITAL. $750,000 610,000 175,000 26,000 11,000 260,000 175,000 244,000 103,000 266,000 156,000 EM- PLOYEES. 425 68 20 17 8 180 410 215 35 395 77 MONTHLY 'AN'L PRO- WAGES. ! DUCTION. $22,610 1,600 2,200 1.036 1,655 7,028 6,800 11,693 2,400 11,630 4,000 $2,124,000 270,000 300,000 54,000 20,000 1,028,000 400,000 1,820,000 874,000 440,000 615,000 SUMMARY. Number of Establishments 61 Number of EstablishmeLts prior to 1860 14 Number of Employees 2,128 Capital invested ....$2,984,500 Wages paid per year $885,264 Annual Products $9,122,500 MANUFACTURES. 135 MISCELLANEOUS. c Bed and Bedding Manfr ...4 Tobacco and Cigars _ 14 Hat Manfr 11 Ladies' Hat and Frame Manfr... 3 Writing Inks Manfr '. , -2 Printing Inks Manfr. 1 Pap. r Manfr 2 Match Manfr 1 Paper Balloon Manfr 1 Waste Cleaning Works 1 Mop Head and Handle Manfr 1 Oil Cup Manfr 1 Open Sign Manfr 1 Maccaroni Mauf r . . .1 Umbrella Manfr ..1 Wringing Machine Roller Manfr -1 Ivory" Turning Works - 1 Orchestrion Manfr _ 1 Jewelry Case Manfr . 1 Button Manfr . 1 Clothing Manfr 12 Neck Wear Manfr 1 Carpet Weaver : 1 Cooper Shops 5 Paper Box Manfr 5 Brush Manfr 2 Hay Press Works ..1 Sails and Awning Manfr. .8 Willow Ware Manfr 4 Ornamental Glass Manfr .4 Billiard Table Manfr ..4 Flour and Feed Mills 7 Coffee and Spice Mills 2 Cotton Batting Manfr 4 Cork and Bung Manfr 2 Bakeries -_8 Lime Works .7 Show Case Manfr 6 Lace Mauf r . 1 CAPITAL. EM- PLOYEES. MONT HLY : AN'L PRO- WAGES. DUCTION. $ 14.600 346,500 247.000 45,000 20,000 50,000 650,000 30,000 5,000 5,000 8,000 3,000 1.000 8^500 20,000 5,000 5,000 1,000 1,000 5,000 1,700,000 25,000 1,000 185,000 34,500 80,000 20,000 64,000 20,000 55,000 373,000 495,000 120,000 48,000 60,000 371,000 298,000 31,000 8,000 34 447 217 300 13 30 190 75 2 5 6 5 6 15 30 10 4 3 3 15 9,306 60 3 192 167 57 10 124 23 101 215 165 47 43 43 290 372 42 10 $ 2,340 17,133 12,975 9,100 850 2.600 4,533 1,192 160 250 300 275 433 600 1,520 500 250 160 275 866 150.916 2,000 • 150 11,700 5,742 3,700 500 8,060 1,160 7,410 13,433 9,583 5,500 1,842 2,170 19,050 19,732 2,903 150 $ 73,000 2,314,500 860,000 300,000 70,000 80,000 775,000 198,000 25,000 25,000 50,000 20,000 5,000 16,500 30,000 10,000 6,000 5,000 5,000 50,000 7,160,000 250,000 5,000 345,000 180,000 275,000 50,000 337,000 42,000 260,000 825,000 1,225.000 370,500 187,000 70,000 1,238,000 488,000 118,000 20,000 SUMMARY. Number of Establishments Number of Establishments prior to 1860... N umber of Employees Capital invested Wages paid per year Annual product ..134 28 .".7.7.12,680 ..$5,459,100 ..#3,977,220 . $18,208,000 136 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. GENERAL SUMMARY. The following table presents a summary -view of the number of establishments in each of the classes into which we have divided the manufactories of Chicago, together with the devel- opment since 1860, and the present production per year: NUMBER estabi/d 1873. NUMBER J PRESENT UP TO ANNUAL 1860. PRODUCT. Iron Works Wood Works Iron and Wood (additional to foregoing) Silver Smelting, and Works in Brass, Type Metal, and Terra Cotta \ - Brick and Stone .-. _ Leather (including Boots and Shoes) Malt and Spirituous Liquors Chemicals, Varnish, etc - Miscellaneous Total 127 26 $32,103,000 143 26 18,607,000 1 58 26 17,419,500 24 ' 5 7,250,000 57 6 7,570,000 34 13 3,001,000 22 5 9,140,000 61 14 9,122,500 134 28 18,268,000 660 149 $122,481,000 Number concerns established since 1870 Total number of Employees Total Capital invested Total Wages per annum Total yearly product..-- 182 48,429 ..$50,017,500 ..$27,700,828 .$122,481,000 Additional Figures. — A word with reference to the number and extent of the manufacturing establishments of Chicago, as they ap- pear upon this list, and as they have been customarily reckoned in the lists given by one authority or another in past years. In the list by which the aggregate manufactures of this city were made to reach $76,000,000 odd in 1870, we find several branches of business classi- fied with manufactures which Mr. Schoff leaves out of his account : printing, for instance, of which the total product in 1872 must have been at least twenty per cent, greater than that of 1870, reported at $3,000,000, that is to say, $3,600,000 ; and ship- carpentry, which we estimate at $225,000 for 1872. The heavi- est item to be added to the above lists, however, is the manu- facture of cured meats, which has grown so rapidly that we now place its aggregate at $33,750,000, and the total number of hands employed at 6,250. This estimate is founded upon the rela- tive number of hogs and cattle packed in 1869-70, and in 1872-3. During the former season, there were 688,140 hogs and 11,963 beef cattle packed, and in the latter season 1,425,079 hogs and 15,675 beef cattle ; and as the number of men required in the former season is stated at 2,500, and the total value at $13,500,000, we feel justified by the "rule of three," even after deducting something for the lower price of the packing product, in placing the force at 5,250 men, and the product at $33,750,000. We must also add printing to the tables above given, inasmuch as MANUFACTURES. 137 that industry is customarily classed among manufactures. We esti- mate the product of this industry at $3,600,000 per annum, and the force employed at 1,500. It will be seen that Mr. Schorl's list includes only 660 establish- ments, while even so obtuse an agency as the United States census force found 1,149 establishments in 1870. The only inference is, that the former authority made a very rigid classification, discarding or failing to canvass hundreds of small concerns which, though not in all cases worthy of separate mention, should not be omitted from the general account. This fact is evinced by the very large average of hands employed, according to his report — over 73 to each estab- lishment. A recent calculation in " The Times," based on the latest directory of the city, placed the total number of manufactories in Chicago at 4,703 — a number obviously inflated, inasmuch as it included carpenters, retail bakers, blacksmiths, etc., in the list, just as Mr. John S. Wright did in his O-be-joyful volume of date 1868. Supposing half " The Times " list to be legitimate, we have 2,000 snug little manufacturing concerns to add to Mr. Schoff's list ; and we will say that these 2,000 shops employ an average of eight hands each, and turn out an average yearly product worth $10,000 each. That yields an aggregate of 16,000 more artisans and $20,000,000 more manufactured goods per annum. Adding now these, with the printers, the packers and their respective products to the numbers given in the foregoing tables, and we have a total force of 70,999 persons (it wouldn't do to speak loosely for the sake of round num- bers) engaged to-day in manufactures in Chicago, and an aggregate of $179,831,000 as the yearly product of their handiwork and of the machinery, which is, here more than anywhere else, made auxiliary to manual labor. Food for a City-Full. — These artisans are well paid. The aver- age yearly wages of all employees included in Mr. Schoff's list — men, women and children — is $5,507. They are certainly well paid in view of the cheapness of living in Chicago, where provisions are at most not more than half as costly as in Eastern or European cit- ies, and where every head of a family may own a house and lot by the appropriation of two or three years' savings. How many persons will the wages of these 71,000 artisans support ? At the rate of living prevalent in Europe (wages being as in Chicago), six persons to each workman would be a very moderate estimate. Inasmuch, however, as our artisans' children go to school, and artisans' wives are as respecta- 138 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. ble as anybody, we will allow only three persons to each employee of these shops and factories (this number has been verified by actual canvass in several large factories). Hence we find that a population of 213,000, or upwards of one-half the entire population of the city, is already supported by the manufactures of what most people are still disposed to regard as " an exclusively commercial city." Location of Manufactures. — On all the business thoroughfares of the city more or less manufacturing is to be found, as a matter of course. The heavier work naturally gathers along the North and South branches of the river, and" on the north side of the main stream near its mouth, the south side being taken up by railroad warehouses and yards, by steamboat docks, and by heavy merchandizing ware- houses. More iron and wood manufactures are found on Clinton street, and its two neighbors on either side — Canal and Jefferson — than upon all other streets in the city, outside of the manufacturing district described below ; though there is a good number of foun- dries and other manufacturing establishments of large capital to be found in the North Division, within a square or two of the North Branch of the river. The tanneries and distilleries mostly cluster around the North Branch, whose own odor is at present congenial to such neighborhood. The stone-cutting is done chiefly near the South Branch and in the vicinity of Polk and Harrison streets ; and, the packing business has its seat north of the Union Stock Yards, whose location is shown upon the map. The South Branch District. — The district which has become well known under this name lies on the west fork of the South Branch, west of Ashland avenue and south of Twenty-second street. As it has been rapidly improved with special reference to the wants of heavy manufacturing establishments, and has already been occupied by half a dozen of the largest concerns in the West, some account of it is here necessary. The development of this district has been almost exclusively the enterprise of Mr. Samuel J. Walker. This gentleman, in 1854, pur- chased one and a half miles of the river front, west of Ashland avenue and south of Twenty-second street, and extending across and beyond the canal, so as to embrace from 1,400 to 1,500 acres, for the purpose of creating a manufacturing center. To this end he has already expended over a quarter of a million dollars. Directly after the fire he commenced dredging out slips and providing dock frontage, and private railway tracks, with a view of attracting man- MANUFACTURES. 139 ufactures to that locality. Six of these slips are completed, and more are in progress. Those completed make an aggregate front of 20,000 feet ; besides this, there are three miles of river front, all of which is high and dry land, susceptible of being used for dock purposes. In addition to the above ample accommodations, there are 10,400 feet of front on the Illinois and Michigan Canal. All told, the subdivision con- tains a magnificent dock frontage of 45,000 feet, or over eight lineal miles. The Chicago & Northwestern; Chicago, Burlington & Quincy ; Pacific, Chicago & St. Louis ; Alton & St. Louis, and Chicago, Dan- ville & Vincennes railways, center here, and by means of the Union Stock Yards switch cars from every road entering the city can be sent to any part of the track. Along the head of each slip runs a private railway, and from this, switches run between the slips, so that the transfer arrangements are absolutely perfect. Attracted by such accommodations, the following manufactories have located within this district : The reaper works of the McCormick brothers, said to be the larg- est in the world, having a capacity to turn out 20,000 finished reap- ers per year. The building, which is 350x360 feet and five stories in height, cost $350,000, and has $150,000 worth of machinery. The product of these works from March 1, 1873, when they first went into operation, to September 1, 1873, was n,ooo finished machines. The works give employment to 800 men ; The railway supply manufactory of Wells, French & Co., which employs a force of 130 men and occupies ten acres of ground. Its products are railway cars, bridges and similar commodities ; The Columbian Iron Works, which employs 300 men, and turns out a great many varieties of cast, forged and rolled iron goods, making a specialty of the heaviest castings, and of several machines for working iron. This concern has shipped tons of goods to Pitts- burgh within the past year — which may seem like carrying coals to Newcastle, but which was certainly more profitable to the shipper than that proverbial transaction would have been ; The car building establishment of F. E. Canda & Co., which employs 400 hands and a capital of $350,000, and turns out 175 box freight cars and 6 passenger cars per month ; The Barnum & Richardson Manufacturing Company's car-wheel factory, which turns out 300 wheels per day ; 140 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The furniture factory of Swan, Clark & Co., which employs a cap- ital of $175,000, and a working force of 175 men; The Chicago Stove Works, which employs a capital of $200,000 and a force of 200 men, turning out 20,000 stoves per annum; The car-wheel foundry of B. F. Russell, turning out 115 wheels per day ; The turn-table factory of E. J. Halsted, which employs 75 men and turns out 100 turn-tables per year; The Union Rolling Mill Company, which employs 600 men and produces 150 tons of steel and iron rails per day ; The furnaces of the Joliet Iron and Steel Company, which em- ploy 75 men an d smelts 60 tons of ore per day for the company's main works at Joliet, r near Chicago ; The Chicago Malleable Iron Company, which has but recently commenced the erection of buildings, to cover about six acres of ground, and which will have some 300 men employed by January 1, 1874; The Chicago Plate and Bar Metal Company, which employs 75 men, and turns out 70 tons of manufactured metal per week ; Some thirty brick-yards, which produce from 5,000,000 to 11,000,- 000 brick each, per year. (N. B. : Schoff has only sixteen brick- yards on his whole list.) All the above establishments, with three exceptions, have been built since the fire ; a growth which is remarkable, especially since the facilities for reaching the district from the center of the city, and for living in the vicinity of the factories, are as poor as the railroad and shipping facilities of the locality are excellent. -This defect will be remedied in a year or two, however, and the most inestimable of city privileges — a certain water supply — is being ensured by the construction, now in process, of the lake tunnel and pumping- works. The tunnel or water-main extends from the west end of the new lake tunnel at the lake-shore, three and five-sixths miles under the city, in a straight line to the site of the proposed new pumping- works, near the southwest corner of Ashland and Blue Island avenues. These new pumping-works will equal, if not excel, in beauty of de- sign, size, and cost, the present water-works of Chicago. The bot- tom of the inside surface of the tunnel, at its eastern terminus, is seventy-one feet below the ordinary level of the lake, and is to ascend gradually to the west end. There are to be nine working shafts, situated respectively on Chicago avenue, Illinois street, Frank- MANUFACTURES. 141 lin street, Jackson street, Polk street, Waller street, Rebecca street, Nineteenth street, and at the western terminus. Besides these, there will be nine fire-shafts at different points. The shaft at Chicago avenue will be ten feet in diameter at the bottom of the pump, which is to be five feet below the bottom of the tunnel. The fire-shafts will be three and one-half feet in clear diameter. The clear width of the tunnel is to be over seven feet, the top and bottom arches to be semi-circles. It will be lihed with brick measuring eleven inches thick, in three rings or shells, the bricks lying lengthwise, with tooth- ing joints. It will be seen, from the above description in part, that the work will be firm, secure, and as nearly everlasting as the work of man can make it. The South Chicago Manufacturing District. — At South Chicago, where the Calumet river empties into Lake Michigan, there are extra- ordinary advantages for manufacturing, which are being appropiated rapidly; a very large woolen mill, three iron mills, a glue and ferti- lizer factory, and several minor establishments having already got into operation, and a rolling-mill and lumber factory, each of the first class, being under way. Owing to the bulk to which this chap- ter has already swollen, and the necessity of treating South Chicago somewhat at length, the subject will be deferred to a subsequent chapter. Where Will it End '? — Where will this wonderful development of manufactures in Chicago end ? The question is a difficult one to answer — the more so, as the present seems to be only the beginning of a great movement which promises to bring great numbers of the manufacturing concerns of the East and Europe into Chicago, either with branches or with their whole establishments — capital, skilled workmen, reputation, and all. We may as well evade the question — "where will it end ? " by copying, to close this chapter, a portion of an editorial in the " Sunday Times " of recent date, prepared by the editor of the present work, in which, for the first time, the vastness of our recent achievements and present standing in respect to manufac- tures was acknowledged editorially in a great daily journal : " Among the extensive manufacturing enterprises which have been founded in Chicago within the past two years, are the three rolling-mills for the production of steel and iron rails. These mills have a total capacity of 65,000 tons of steel rails and 60,000 tons of iron rails per annum — that is, 125,000 tons in all, worth in mar- ket about $11,000,000, and capable of ironing 1,050 miles of road. This is more than one-third the whole steel rail capacity in the United States, and up to this capacity the mills were worked last year. The grange troubles of the present sea- 142 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. son are damaging the market for railroad iron, but the effect is only temporary, since there are tens of thousands of miles of railroad, reached easier from Chicago than from any other place, which require new rails as soon as funds permit. These rolling-mills employ 4,000 men, which implies a population of 20,000 supported by this industry alone. " Coming into other branches of iron manufacture (which lies at the base of all manufactures) we find that they have developed amazingly within the last two or three years. To say nothing of the half dozen extensive works which have sprung up since the fire, and which made architectural iron casting a specialty, there is observable a wonderful increase in the general foundry and machinery business. The four foundries which make car wheels a specialty or a branch have a capacity of 400 wheels per day — 15,000 8-wheel cars per year, The Union Iron Works and Crane Brothers Manufacturing Company, which embrace almost all varieties of heavy work in iron, have grown up gradually within half a dozen years from petty shops to gigantic establishments, employing 1,500 men and supporting a population of 7,500. There is not an iron works within the knowledge of " The Times" that has not greatly increased — in most cases doubled — its annual product since 1870, " And they are coming in every day, insomuch that the daily newspapers, ever on the alert for new things, no longer consider a huge factory with half a million dollars capital, and certain to increase our productive population by five or ten thousand, an item worth making more than a paragraph about. " Our old manufacturers are not content to repose on their laurels, but keep peg- ging away and winning new ones. The McCormick Brothers, for instance. A year ago the tract of twenty-three acres on the South Branch, now occupied by the works of this concern, had on it nothing except a thrifty crop of corn and cabbages. Now, not only has that ground been covered with a factory costing, with its machinery, half a million dollars, but that factory has already turned out 11,000 completed reapers and mowers, all of which have been marketed. This number is 2,000 greater than had been reached in any whole year previous to the fire. These works support a population of 4,000. " The Silicon Steel Works, the Chicago Steel Company, the Chicago Malleable Iron Company, and other kindred establishments which are being set up either in this city or on the Calumet at South Chicago, and which will be in operation within three months, are not included in any of these figures given above, nor have we space for details of the three silver-smelting works which have been established in or near Chicago within the past two years, and which turn out $4,000,000 worth of bullion per annum ; nor of the already vast and very rapidly increasing business in the manufacture of furniture, leather, clothing, boots and shoes, brick, etc., in which Chicago already leads every other western city, and flour, in which she gained on St. Louis 415,963 barrels — more than half the annual product of the latter city — during the seven years of which we have statistics at hand. " These latter items are matters of course, incident to the progress of Chicago in other particulars. The remarkable increase in the heavier articles of traffic is something for which the outside world was less prepared. " What is the cause of it? Chicago has no mineral deposits under her walls, — one would say she ought to be a purely commercial city, rather than a manufactur- ing burgh, — a selling and shipping, rather than a smelting, founding, rolling and grinding town. MANUFACTURES. 143 " Well, the cause of it simply is that our railroads and steamboats have been multiplied until they have brought practically under our walls the ores which are mined hundreds of miles away. While St. Louis has a slight advantage of Chicago in respect to proximity to certain iron and coal ores, Chicago has a much greater advantage in that she can, u nlike the other town, command all varieties of coal and iron at prices which make manufacturing amply remunerative. By piercing the coal districts of Indiana, Illinois, and Ohio, with half a dozen new railroads within the past year or two, we have secured an advantage on coal that is telling the story for our manufactures ; and the dialf a dozen additional roads now in progress, some of which will land coal in Chicago for less than $3 per ton adds another inter- esting chapter. Then with us, wages are at least 10 per cent, lower than in St. Louis — an item still more important than coal; and most important of all, we have an almost boundless market which is growing even faster than Chicago herself and of which we have taken possession by means of a system of railroads affording the best distributing facilities in the world. " These are some of the causes of our prosperity in manufacturing. What will be the effect of it ? Why, not that Chicago will become a manufacturing instead of a commercial city, but that she will simply add manufactures to her commerce in such proportion as to make her development symmetrical and her future sure. Kansas City may pack some of the beef, Milwaukee may brew the beer and handle a good share of the amber wheat, Peoria may help convert the corn into highwines, and other towns may do their share in working up the raw commodities of the great west. Chicago will not worry about that. She has a higher and broader mis- sion — to import, to manufacture, to job at tide-water prices for cash, and to act as the general consolidated metropolis of this big empire." SOME CHICAGO INSTITUTIONS. Two Hundred and Twelve Churches — Forty-nine Secret Mutual Benefit Societies — Eighty-three Open Charitable Organizations — Two and a Quarter Million Dollars in Public School Buildings, etc. — Collegiate Institutions — Public Library, etc. Public works, institutions supported out of the public revenue,, except schools, and all establishments for justice, police regulation,, etc., incident to government, are elsewhere adverted to ; but it remains to give some account of other institutions, especially those of worship, education, and mercy. Summary Statement. — There are in Chicago 212 organized church congregations and societies, 83 benevolent and other open societies,. 49 Masonic and other secret societies, exclusive of industrial unions, etc. ; 82 educational establishments, other than public schools ; 24 hospitals and asylums ; 8 public libraries ; 3 city railway corpora- tions ; and 14 theaters and opera houses of reputable grade; to all which may be added 84 newspapers. Church Edifices. — There are in Chicago 238 houses of public wor- ship, including mission churches. While all the well known denom- inations are represented, together with several Hebrew, the charac- teristic feature of Chicago religion is the uncommon degree of mutual tolerance and cooperation. In many of the systematic charities, in temperance reform, in conserving the Sabbath, and in several other works of practical religion, even the once impassable distinction between Protestant and Roman Catholic is frankly ignored, while among Protestants, denominational differences are scarcely traceable in organized labors of Christian zeal. The edifices devoted to religion are conspicuously elegant and ample, the rebuilding of churches since the fire having been as marked in promptitude as that of business houses, in most cases. Among those which now adorn the city, we may name the Union Park and the Ann street Congregational churches, the latter rebuilding CHURCHES OF CHICAGO. M5 after destruction by a recent fire; St. James', situated on Cass street corner of Huron street; Grace church, on Wabash avenue, and St' John's, on Ashland avenue, all Episcopal; the First Presbyterian Indiana avenue and 21st street, and Second Presbyterian, Wabash Unity Church. avenue and 20th street; Unity church (Robert Collyer's), and the new Church of the Messiah (both Unitarian), on the corner of Mich- igan avenue and 23d street; Grace church on Chicago avenue, and innity church, Indiana avenue, near 24th street, both Methodist Episcopal; and the Michigan Avenue Baptist church; are all costly and beauttful structures. Prof. David Swing, a leader in the Chicago pulpit, closed a recently published essay with the remark that 10 per 146 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. haps the next vast public edifice will be neither an exposition build- ing nor a grand hotel, but a Temple of Worship that will bring five thousand poor children together every Sunday, where they may meet at once loving friends and a loving God ! " Public Schools. — The educational institutions of Chicago are sat- isfactory and their prospects eminently promising. The pupilary population of Chicago in September, 1872, when a school census was taken, was 88,219. About 35,000 are at present {September, 1873) in attendance at the public schools. The follow- ing are suggestive statistics : Appropriations for schools in 1873, $1,113,974.95 ; cost of school houses rebuilt since the fire, $202,915.59, with seats for 4,274 pupils. Expenditures for the last year, $564,568.33 ; for buildings last year, $133,607.47. Value of school lots in possession of the Board, $1,008,255 ; value of buildings, furniture, etc., $1,297,475. The city is divided into 34 districts, having ^6 schools and 51 buildings. Total number of teachers, 564, of whom only 32 are males. The system comprises a normal and a high school course, as well as the lower grades. The object of the former, which is well attained, is the training of teachers ; while in the high schools, four years instruction in languages, mathematics, and the classics, are accessible to pupils who aspire to it. The Chicago graded system has been so successful as to have become the general model for northwestern schools, and to have been in part adopted by the Min- isters of Education in France. In two respects the common schools of Chicago are said to be preeminent over any others in the country, ;not excepting Boston, viz. : Perfect discipline without tolerating cor- poreal punishment, and musical culture. Singing, in theory and prac- tice, is taught to every pupil, without distinction, and with such suc- cess that on the occasion of the late so-called Musical "Jubilee," the vocal performance of a select body of school children evoked the surprise and applause of thousands of strangers. At the late Vienna Exposition, a medal of Progress was awarded to the public •school system of Chicago. The Bible, though disused in St. Louis and Cincinnati after a pro- longed struggle, has survived the odium theologicum in the Chicago schools, and is still used, without considerable objection. The .reason is notable: care is taken to employ those passages only in which Christians of all descriptions have alike and at all times joined without controversy. With this spirit, the Roman Catholic laity EDUCATION. -. 147 have so heartily sympathized, that the effort for separate parochial schools is now no longer pressed with ardor by that venerable but jealous Church. Private Schools. — The private schools had 14,496 pupils in Sep- tember, 1872, and their number is believed to be about the same now. Altogether, about 50,000 children between the ages of six and twelve are at school in Chicago, leaving about 30,000 non-attend- ants. Nevertheless, it is understood that the statistics of illiteracy, notwithstanding the very large foreign proportion, are in favor of Chicago over any other western city. Included in the private schools are the denominational schools of the Roman Catholics, Luth- erans, and Jews, two or three Kindergartens after the German model, and some places of instruction in technical rudiments. Theological Schools, etc. — With regard to more advanced educa- tion, there are several academies and seminaries of approved credit, including an excellent Roman Catholic Academy, and the Convent of St. Xavier. There are also, besides special theological depart- ments of the Universities, a Presbyterian and a Baptist Theological Seminary, and a Roman Catholic University, though the destruction by the Fire of the buildings of this institution has suspended it. Collegiate Institutions. — Oxford, Cambridge, and Heidelberg, date back in the gloamin' of the Dark Ages, -and even Yale, Harvard, Bowdoin and Dartmouth are hoary with time and venerable with a history older than the great Republic. Chicago would be justly reprehensible were she, after half the Lime, to fail to have institutions of learning much more excellent ; for opportunity is something in which the age is rich. Nevertheless, it will be, with no aspiration to challenge comparison with the best institutions of older States, that we mention, as well worthy the pride of Chicagoans, the seats of learning already established. The Northwestern University ranks first among Chicago's institu- tions for the promotion of a higher education. Though founded less than a quarter of a century ago, and enjoying few or no munificent endowments, it has already grown to be a full-fledged University, as American universities go, with a faculty of some forty professors, a property of $1, 268, 860, and an annual list of over 600 students. Its history will be treated more in detail under the head " Evanston," in Part V. The Chicago University is situated within the city, at Cottage Grove, in the midst of a beautiful forest of oak, in view of Lake Michigan. 148 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. It originated in 1855 with the late Stephen A. Douglas, who in that year consented to donate ten acres of the beautiful grove upon the lake shore, as a site, and in the year following conveyed the land to Dr. J. C. Burroughs in trust for the future institution. In 1857 the university was incorporated and building begun, and completed the following year. Dr. Burroughs was the first, and has continued the only President of the University. Starting in 1858 with three pro- fessors and six pupils (!) in fifteen years, the Faculty has increased to twenty- one, including some of the most eminent instructors of the country; while the attendance reached 281 pupils in 1872 — 359 having already graduated, and the total attendance having aggregated 3,531 pupils. After Mr. Douglas had determined upon the donation, it is understood that the Presbyterian denomination received the first invitation to second the gift, but some delay having intervened, Mr. Douglas made the offer to the Baptists, who promptly accepted it. But the choice of a religious organization was but a measure of facil- ity in completing the design, and in no sense, a subordination of the institution to sectarian objects. Accordingly the University charter gives to the Baptist denomination the leading representation, but yet leaves its privileges and honors open to all ; its Boards of Trustees, and Regents, and its Professorships, being open to representatives from any religious denomination. In the words of the charter, " Otherwise than that the majority of the Trustees and the President of the University shall forever be of the same religious denomina- tion as the majority of this corporation, no religious test or particu- lar religious profession shall ever be held as a requisite for admission to any department of the University, or for election to any profes 2 sorship or other place of honor or emolument in it ; but the same shall be open alike to persons of any religious faith or profession.' To quote the exact words of President Burroughs : " In receiving the property from Mr. Douglas, it was stipulated only that the work should go forward promptly, and that, while a leading representation might be secured to my own church, there should yet be no exclusive denominational control, but a fair place given to all churches, and to men of no church, who might choose to cooperate. It will be seen that the charter of the University is conformed to this agreement, as has also been, I believe, the composition of the Board of Control, and of the Faculties, during the history of the University thus far. It will be bad faith to the dead, as well as the living, and, I believe , a mistake of the best way of adjusting denominational relations to COLLEGES. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 149 colleges in this country, if different counsels ever prevail. A narrow- sectarianism may find such a policy better suited to its ends ; but sectarianism has yet to show that it has ever gained anything, even for the church which it assumes to serve, while it has often sacrificed what is best in the progress and influence of colleges, to its own big- otry and selfishness." The most notable features of the University is the Dearborn Ob- servatory, provided with the great equatorial refracting telescope, the largest instrument of the kind in the country, of these dimen- sions : Diameter of declination circle, 30 inches; diameter of hour circle, 22 inches ; focal length of object glass, 23 inches; aperture of object glass, 18% inches. Medical Colleges. — Besides the medical department of the North- western University, which, as the Chicago Medical College, has an elegant building of its own, is the Rush Medical College, a flourish- ing institution, on an independent basis; and the Hahnemann Med- ical Institute, devoted to Homoeopathy. The former, which is one of the oldest institutions of Chicago, and a most respectable medical school, has not rebuilt since the fire, solely from a resolution to build adjacent to the site yet to be selected for the new County Hospital. Connected with the University, there are law schools of acknowl- edged usefulness. The institutions of charity in Chicago are distinguished for their number and their excellence even more than for their magnitude, either of buildings or of endowments. Relief and Aid Society. — The Chicago Relief and Aid Society has erected at 51 and 53 La Salle street an elegant and commodious building, at a cost of $50,000, for their offices, and for assembly rooms for all manner of benevolent societies of the city. It has also established four fine medical dispensaries, and endowed the several hospitals in proportions following, viz : Mercy Hospital 40 beds ; St. Luke, 28; St. Joseph, 31 ; Women and Children's, 25 ; Hahnemann, 15; Alexian Brothers, 18; Eye and Ear, 20. To these institutions may be added (besides the Cook County Public Hospital), the Wash- ingtonian Home for Inebriates, the Erring Women's Refuge, Catholic Asylum for boys, Chicago Reform and Industrial School, Nurs- ery and Half-Orphan Asylum, the Protestant Orphan Asylum, St. Mary and St. Joseph Orphan Asylum, Home of the Friendless, Chi- cago Foundlings' Home, the St. Paul's Presbyterian Orphan Asylum, the Old Ladies' Home, the Newsboys and Bootblacks' Home, etc. There are also Jewish, Irish, English, German, etc., aid societies. 150 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Academy of Sciences.— The Academy of Sciences is an institution of promise, notwithstanding several signal misfortunes. In 1866 the Metropolitan Block was burned, and with it the property of the So- ciety, including eighteen thousand specimens of natural history, geology, palaeontology, archaeology, etc. In the same year, the most zealous and active member of the institution, Major Robert Kenni- cott, died in Alaska, whither he had been sent by the Smithsonian Institution at Washington. At a later day, in the Great Fire, Dr. Wil- liam Stimpson's unpublished manuscripts, drawings, etc., together with curious and invaluable specimens, all relating to China and Japan, the result of a tour under the official direction of the United States government, on which twenty laborious years of his life had spent their ripening energies, were forever lost to the Academy and the world; every other valuable thing of the institution perishing with them. The Academy was soon called to mourn the greater loss of the man him- self, long its efficient and beloved secretary Finally, after zealous, able, and devoted efforts for restoring a good footing to the society, but with the comforting satisfaction of seeing it once more fairly advancing, the third and most distinguished of the trio of men who had so long cooperated at Chicago for the organization of scientific effort and the exaltation of Western mind, departed this life this year (1873). We allude to Dr. J. W. Foster, president of the Academy. It was established in 1857. With the ruinous and irreparable losses which successively befell its collections and its archives, this noble institution might have been able to bear ; but with the loss of Ken- nicott, Stimpson, and, at length, Foster, its pillars fell. But already it has rebuilt at a cost of $45,000, and, with a new cabinet and mu- seum, reopened to the public under astonishingly favorable auspices. The Chicago Historical Society was organized in 1856, under char- ter. The Rev. William Barry, long its secretary, by his indefati- gable zeal, had succeeded in collecting nearly a hundred thousand documentary and other memorials, including fifteen thousand bound books, manuscripts, archaeological specimens, etc. The Society had a magnificent building on the corner of Ontario and Dearborn streets, costing $200,000, with reading room, lecture hall, offices, museum, store-room, etc. The fire destroyed it all. The Society, sensible of the loss, which can, from the nature of things, never be supplied, is not discouraged, but is expected at an early day to open its path of usefulness on a broader plan than ever. The Chicago Free Public Library is destined to be the pride of the FREE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 151 city. It is scarce a year since it was chartered. Though contain- ing now but a few thousand volumes, and, as yet, without a building appropriate for such a purpose, yet the endowment, which is on the basis of public taxation, and with the object of a reading room and library open day and evening, Sunday included, is secure and ample. The amount already received or appropriated is about $100,000, and it is understood that the annual contribution is to be half that sum, at least. . BOARD OF TRADE. The Composition, Objects, Achievements, Episodes, Merits and Faults of that Most Characteristic of Chicago's Institutions. GARDEN edibles are said to grow so fast, sometimes, that particles of impurity are found by the cook " mechanically enclosed " in their fibres. With some exceptions, which, it is be- lieved, this body of business men faithfully and sternly eliminated as soon as clearly detected, it is surprising, upon the whole, that so little spurious commercial character has been " mechanically en- closed," during the swift growth of the Chicago Board of Trade, amongst those healthy, doughty fibres so well applauded all over the world. Within the year 1873, new and stringent regulations, super- induced by an experience of a few abuses, have been adopted, which, it is believed, will preserve and exalt the tone of Chicago business integrity. Passing Through Fire. — On the other hand, no better example is recollected in history of the compatibility of interest with generosity — and as soon as these are perfectly harmonized, civilization will be perfect — than is shown by the record of this Board, in a particular juncture, after the Great Fire. It rose to the full height of decision without injustice, invention without innovation, and force without violence. At the time the disaster came, like a bolt from the sky, the out- standing engagements for the delivery of grain in time future were probably greater in number and amount than ever before on any given day. The day before the fire ended a week of wheat receipts the largest ever known. "Time contracts," therefore, were uncom- monly rife. If it be considered that this species of engagement gives one or the other of the parties an arbitrary option, within prescribed limits, of maturing the time of consummation or profit, one need only to consider also the financial state of a city in ruins to imagine BOARD OF TRADE. 153 the substantially useless yet inevitable anxiety and embarrassment of dealers. Here was a " Gordian knot " to untie, for which the secret lay with courts, juries, and lawyers. The green-bag of jurisprudence was a remote consolation, whether to A or B in the business, while all the business world seemed upside down. Under these circum- stances, the Board of Trade prudently but boldly cut said knot. At its first meeting, a resolution was passed to the effect that a general set- tlement should be had on thefbasis of prices current at the outbreak- ing of the fire. This arrangement did not legally bind, of course. But with a few (now ashamed of having been) exceptions, all promptly acquiesced in a measure so just. The Board refused to enforce its discipline in all cases of harmony with this principle; and of the resorts to court, it is said, every one issued unfavorably to the party who forgot that justice is older than and will outlast law. Officers. — The following are the principal officers at this time of the Board of Trade of Chicago : Charles E. Culver, President; Wm. N. Brainard, ist Vice Presi- dent ; Howard Priestly, 2d Vice President. Directors : Charles J. Davis, John R. Bensley, Wm. N. Sturges, Wm. E. Richardson, D. M. Ford, Joseph F. Armour, Robert Warren, Alexander Murison, Thos. Wight, E. B. Baldwin; Charles Randolph, Secretary; Orson Smith, Treasurer. Of this important body, let us glance at the history back to that stage at which we have thought fit to break the narrative of Chicago at large into descriptive sections. Historical Glance. — Until 1856, this body was a mere embryo; for a Board of Trade that can be induced to assemble, after often-tried experience, only by " crackers, ale, etc.," cannot be personified other- wise than as a child in utero. One railroad had been partially com- pleted, and was open far enough to prove what railroading could do, when the Board first organized as a legal body corporate in 1850. This road was at once the earliest and the only exclusively local railroad enterprise ever set on foot by Chicago. By the time the Board acquired a self-sufficient footing (1856), Chicago, in early but demonstrable prospect, was the greatest railroad center of the West. Yet, it is a fact that until that prospect had become an actual reali- zation, there was not so much as a serious recognition of the great builder of the city. For all shown by the records of the Board of Trade previous to the time (1859) when the body accepted the invitation of Missourians 154 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. to attend the festivities of the opening of the Hannibal and St. Joseph railroad, one might infer there had never been such a thing connected with Chicago. With some prudent and sensible regulations of detail, such as equalizing charges for handling goods, substituting weight for bulk in reckoning grain in bushels, etc., the minds of members seem to have alternated amongst ill-defined and illusory plans for supplementing St. Lawrence navigation, and for dredging, clearing obstructions, etc., from the Illinois river, for steamboats. For the sake of the harbor there was a good deal of petitioning of Congress, the Legislature and the City Council ; of appointing inexpert committees to sound the mud and measure the sand-bars ; but the receipts of cattle and hogs had become three times, and those of grain twelve times, as great in 1856 as they had been in 1850, before the Board seems to have suspected the railroads of having been the means of bringing them. While from Boston to Baltimore the feeling was quickening for intimate passenger and commercial connection across the mountains and over vast spaces, and line upon line actually opened, the Board seems to have felt steam navigation to and from St. Louis as a paramount object ; sending committees thither from time to time, attending conventions at Peoria, and occupying its sessions at home with prolonged discussions conducted in the main by experienced Fourth of July orators, candidates for office or known visionaries. In 1853 the commerce (now more than $500,000,000) was discov- ered to have reached the intoxicating figure of $30,000,000, where- upon a bank was boldly projected by the Board, with a capital of $5,000,000 — nearly half the banking capital of the city at the present day. The Board in a Crisis. — When the commercial crash of 1857 came, the Board had an opportunity to distinguish itself by the wisdom of its councils ; but inspiration seems to have been reserved for the greater occasions of four and of fourteen years later. We have small record and less memory of any noteworthy relief it was able to afford. In a word, the principal use of the Chicago Board of Trade, almost up to the Rebellion, was to develop the present body, and it is enough that its mission was well performed. Nevertheless, in several important matters, the exertions of the Board were highly creditable and permanently useful, before reach- ing its full maturity. By protesting against a measure to constrain all transhipments of grain to be made at Buffalo, Which had been BOARD OF TRADE, 155 proposed in the New York Legislature, by means of enhancing Erie canal tolls against patrons of the Welland canal, around the Falls of Niagara, they succeeded in defeating a selfish and injurious discrim- ination against their trade. They also kept the harbor improvement question in incessant agitation before Congress, even maintaining a delegation at Washington for some time (Messrs. Orrington Lunt and Thomas Hale), by which appropriations from time to time were facilitated. The classification and denomination of the different kinds of merchantable wheat was a matter requiring judgment, and the distinctions were so well made that it is understood that the grain trade of the world have found them satisfactory. Likewise, a very good system of lumber inspection was adopted, besides other valuable regulations. But the time was coming for the Board to acquire the footing proper to a Business Legislature. The Witenagemote of Chicago's Heptarchian days was getting to be the omnipotent parliament of her Imperial Era. An Organization which Meant Business. — -The first salaiied offi- cer appears to have been a Superintendent, at $1,500 per year, "who should look after the interests of the Board." This was in 1857 ; since which date the daily meetings have always been well attended. The initiation fee was $5.00. On the 5th of April, 1858, the tenth . . * . . . annual meeting, counting from the earliest organization of a Board — which is still the practice — was held. The first token now appears of a settled sense of the true purposes, and an active appreciation of the advantages of such organizations, in by-laws by which it was provided, that only actual residents, and they men actually in busi- ness, should be admitted to membership ; that on 'Change, contracts for freight, chartering of vessels, buying or selling provisions, grain, flour, or lumber, should be prohibited to all but members of the Board — a regulation not legally operative under their yet imperfect charter. New rules of tariff, and other matters of grain importation were adopted, and the duties of inspectors defined. The rules were printed, and 5,000 copies distributed, the warehousemen pledging themselves to have them carried out. Daily telegraphic reports of the markets of New York, Montreal, 'Buffalo and Oswego were ordered. These were permanently continued as to New York, but soon abandoned as to the other markets. With the acceptance of a new charter from the Legislature, and the adoption of new regula- tions befitting the new power of the Board, the year 1858 closed with 156 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. good promise of usefulness, and a membership — mostly of zealous men in business, and who in attending "meant business " — of 520 gentlemen. In 1859, arrangements were made for quarters on South Water street, to which the Board removed the next year, continuing to occupy them till the erection on the corner of Washington and La Salle streets, of the building destroyed by the fire, on the site of the present magnificent structure, elsewhere described. In April, i860, the twelfth annual meeting disclosed 625 names. The most notable event of the Board this year was its earnest, prompt, and for the time effectual remonstrance against the abro- gation of the Canada Reciprocity Treaty. In April, 1861, the membership was 725. The report of the Chief Inspector of Grain was elaborate and lucid, reviewing the preceding year, during which there had been shipped 1,603,920 barrels of flour, 15,835,953 bushels of wheat, 24,372,725 bushels of corn, 1,633,237 bushels of oats, 393,813 bushels of rye, 226,534 bushels of barley; a grand total, reducing flour to its equivalent of bushels of wheat, of 50,481,862 bushels of grain. The packing season ending with that year, there had been packed 34,624 cattle, and 271,805 hogs ; total, 306,429. The season beginning in that year (1861), 53,763 cattle packed, 505,691 hogs; total, 559,454. So vast were the figures of a trade, which, considered as large, was hardly ten years old. But they are doubled at the present day — hardly more than another ten years. Another Crisis. — The depression and gloom everywhere experi- enced during the awful crisis which preceded the explosion of public passion in civil war, were profound in Chicago. If the secession shut Southern markets for New England manufactures, a war could not fail to be as good a patron as the South, with entirely practicable transferences of working capital from one fabric or article to another, the impatient and mighty customer paying the cost of the change in the enhanced price of arms, ordnance, ships, cloths, fixed ammunition, shoes, vehicles, etc., etc. If Boston doubled in solid wealth since 1862, Boston expected it when to the people it cried " Union ! " to the scholar it proposed " delenda est servitudo" and to itself whispered " a better market." But Chicago and its Board of Trade had access to no such con- solations. Her banks based her currency on Southern State stocks ; her Southern trade was one of her supports, and among her inspir- BOARD OF TRADE IN WAR TIMES. 157 ing hopes, hardly any one was dearer than that of inducing cotton to abandon the ocean route and seek New York by water through the Illinois and Michigan Canal, by which she cherished the dream of supplanting New York as the commission merchant, factor and banker of the South, and its then yet undeposed king, cotton. On the other hand, what was she ready to manufacture to sell to the government? Except a coffin contract, with her lumber and her carpenters, she could hardly feel like bidding for a share of that kind of relief against an Eastern factory. The blockade so necessarily declared by the government was a blockade of the Northwest as much as of the South for the first eighteen months of the war, and in every aspect, the war appeared to the Chicago mind a pure busi- ness calamity. The Board Tests its Patriotism. — Yet, quite in sympathy with the popular interests, the Board of Trade instantly took decided and emphatic ground on the subject. From New Orleans and other lower Mississippi cities, orders came in great amount with the gold for grain, but though intercourse had not yet been rendered illegal, the prevalent sentiment constrained the grain merchants to instantly decline to forward. The Board after discussion refused to. adminis- ter a test oath, but provided a regulation disallowing admission to membership of persons whose loyalty could be successfully im- peached. The patriotic ardor of the time was emulated by the Board. War meetings were nightly held and speeches made. Upon the July call for troops, a communication was received on the 17th on 'Change from the " Union Defense Committee," asking the Board to cooperate with other committees at a meeting to be held at Bryan Hall on the following Saturday. The Board responded heartily and joined in a grand mass meeting in the Court House square. On the next Monday, the day of the first battle of Manassas ( u Bull Run "), it was resolved to mount a battery of artillery to be called the " Board of Trade battery," to serve for three years unless sooner discharged, and that the same be tendered to the government. For the money necessary to pay the bounties, it was resolved that the Board appro- priate $10,000, and that the members be " invited " to subscribe to this fund such amounts as their patriotic feelings should suggest, and that a committee of five be appointed to carry out the resolu- tions, and put the battery on a " war footing." Thus began a series of ardent and earnest measures which never abated until after the war. Regiments were raised, employers reserving the places of 158 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. employees who would volunteer, immense sums were raised by vol- untary subscription for war purposes, besides appropriations, impos- ing public honors were paid the fallen, and the excitement frequently carried the Board quite out of its sphere. Nevertheless, perhaps the highest service ever rendered by this body was in devising and adopting a method of relief, in the beginning of the war, from a currency complication of the utmost danger. The Board Regulates Currency. — The currency of Illinois and much of what was elsewhere issued in the Northwest, being based on embarrassing Southern stocks, the most violent fluctuations imme- diately deranged finance and indirectly disordered all criteria of price. The mischief was extreme. Lists of banks with their rates of discount were hardly staple for a day through, and, by reason of causes, which will occur on reflection, at such a time, the railroads had one list and the bankers another, a complication which perfected the confusion. It may be imagined from the fact that when gold exchange on New York was at half of one per cent., currency exchange was as high as fifty per cent, on " long list " currency, that is, notes of banks known to be implicated in depreciating stocks ; and even fluctuating between 7 and 10 for " short list," which enbraced only the best assured banks. Under these circumstances, the Board assembled the country and city bankers and business men not members, and upon a meeting and discussion, a measure, previously projected, was brought for- ward, and, after long and able discussion, adopted. It was, in effect, an arbitrary list, as equitable and well informed as possible, of the rates at which the notes of banks would be taken, and was exhaustive of all circulating in the vicinity. The operation of the principle was similar to the operation of the legal tender law of the United States, though having no compulsory force. The principle was, doubtless, that an agreed value, even if false, is better than a real value that is indefinite, in an article used as a measure of other values. The effect was immediate and admirable, especially if regard be had to the measureless distress averted, rather than to what was sensibly relieved. Consistently with this measure, in the discussion of which Messrs. W. B. Ogden, Wirt Dexter, John C. Haines, Ste- phen Clary, and N. P. Banks, of Massachusetts, participated, the Board of Trade also recommended the adoption of a uniform national currency, and that it be made a legal tender by statute of the United States; and on the other hand, strenuously remonstrated CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 159 against an act, already passed by the Legislature of Illinois, for the establishment of a system of banking on a specie basis. The Board also seized the occasion of Canada's semi-hostile at- titude to urge the General Government, on grounds of military defence, to open a ship canal from the lakes to the rivers. This measure for a time made great progress in Congress, the press, and elsewhere. A convention was held at Chicago in June, 1863, and bills were brought forward in Congress. But the benefactions of legislation pursued other than western objects, and the measure was, left to private enterprise. Chamber of Commerce. — The Board was now so numerous that its rooms could not fully accommodate the body. The idea of erecting their own building had been broached in 1853, and in a moment of enthusiasm, an engagement was countenanced for the erection of one at a cost of $180,000; but nothing more seems ever to have been heard of it. In 1864, suitable steps were 'ken. The Cham- ber of Commerce Association, composed chiefly of members of the Board of Trade, was formed, with a capital stock of $5 00,000, for the object. In three days, $100,000 stock was subscribed for, and the rest was soon taken. The ground now occupied was chosen, then occupied by the First Baptist Church ; and, at an outlay for ground and building of $490,000, the edifice which stood till the Fire, was erected, and leased to the Board for ninety-nine years, at a rental of $20,000 per annum, the most of which came from sub-tenants occu- pying offices in the building. The new building was inaugurated with due ceremony on the 30th of August, 1865, and the three succeeding days. The first day was occupied with addresses by prominent members and distinguished strangers. In the evening of the second day, a grand banquet was given in Exchange Hall ; and on the night of the third day, a grand ball, attended by large numbers from the eastern and western cities. The festivities are well remembered as the most exultant — and. withal, somewhat excessively convivial — in the history of the city. The New Chamber of Commerce. — The splendid building which was erected in 1872 to replace the one destroyed by the fire occupies the old site, southeast corner of Washington and LaSalle streets. It is a temple of commerce which, whether with respect to the utility of structures adapted to the ministrations of commercial grace, or as a beautiful symbol of Chicago in her character as a grain gatherer and i6o CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. a hog killer, is a real embellishment and a real honor to the place. It was practically completed within one year after the great fire, oc- cupying the site, but greatly surpassing in perfection of appointments and in elegance, the former structure. It is claimed, indeed, to sur- pass any similar structure on the continent. It extends 93 feet on Washington street and 181^ on LaSalle street, Calhoun place divid- New Chamber of Commerce. ing it from adjacent buildings on the south and Exchange place on the east. The basement floor is seven inches above the sidewalk, that story being occupied mostly by banks, for which it affords most com- modious and elegant offices. The building is of Buena Vista sandstone, a material which for beauty and durability has come to be rated at the maximum. The cost, not including the ground, was $325,000 and the same sum in recent years has seldom been paid for an edifice so excellent in CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. l6l design, material and finish. Every office in the first and second stories is provided with a burglar-and-fire-proof vault. The great Exchange Hall is 142 feet in length by 87 feet in width, with a ceiling 45 feet high — this entire space without pillar, support or other obstruction. On the south, a gallery for visitors projects from the wall 20 feet above the floor, from which the stranger may contemplate the struggle during 'change hours with philosophical immunity and unobstructed vision. On the north, the rostrum of the president discloses an elaborate and withal rather excessive eleg- ance of design. The brilliant frescoes of the ceiling and walls are entitled to the indulgence due to that style of art when dealing in the human figure. They have been generally and justly commended. ' On either side of the rostrum is an oil painting of large size, repre- senting allegorically the city's great calamity. On the right is repre- sented the fiend of destruction passing over the doomed city, with lighted torch, scattering and communicating flame to everything within her pathway. On the left is seen the angel of mercy, guiding two cherubs laden with the contributions of charity to succor and relieve the distressed and needy of the smitten populace ; while at her feet, the ruins, smoking and tottering, forcibly recall the never to be for- gotten desolation and its attendant manifestations of the noblest im- pulses of humanity, as displayed in the day of our pressing need." In each corner of the hall are what may be called the distributed nervous centers of dry organism of business — telegraph stands, with communications all over the world, synchronizing the operations of the body at any moment with those of others in Europe and America ; receiving orders, reporting current transactions, making or responding to timely inquiries, etc. The offices of the Board of Trade are fixed in the south and west sides of the building, consisting of a general business office, secretary's office, library, etc. The general business office is rather a vault than an apartment, being fire-proof to the utmost attainment of human cunning, for the preservation of archives, documents, books and other valuables. In the northeast corner a well- lighted and ventilated reading room, a wash room, coat room, and other conveniences are provided. Besides these offices and apartments are the rooms for the Directors of the Board of Trade, opposite to which are the various committee rooms for that body. The furniture throughout is elegant, the wood finish being walnut and ash ; all the principal doors glass, with costly and ornate ara- 11 162 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. besques and devices. The staircases are solid mahogany, with mas- sive newel posts of fancy woods, surmounted with bronze figures. This building is the Chicago Chamber of Commerce, built and owned by the Chamber of Commerce Association, an incorporated body distinct from the Board of Trade. The latter has a lease for nearly a century on so much of this building as it occupies, and is the proprietor of a yearly increasing proportion of the stock. The Board has ever since been recognized as the principal organ of public opinion at Chicago on most of the subjects which have engaged public attention. CHICAGO CHARACTERISTICS. C It Requires Moral Courage to Say It, but Modesty is One of the Chief — Conserva- tism of the Chicago Public — Why Ring Rule is Less Practicable than in New York and Other Great Cities — Faults of the Chicago Press and Society — Frankness a Ruling Trait of the Genuine Chicagoan — Some of His Personal Habits — The Rising Generation — And an Outsider's Remark Concerning the "Best Enterprise of the Age." THE reader is not surprised to bear that character, especially, as the attribute of collective numbers, depends more upon con- ditions than upon lineage. Such is the drift of all recent historical analysis, and of scientific generalization. It is not questioned that the character which goes under the name of " Californian " is a real, though as yet inchoate type, clearly distinct from the " Buckskin " of the colonial day, the "Tuckyho " of the Crockett model, the " Ranger " of the southwest, the " Hoosier," or the "Buckeye," — all forms of the American pioneer. But the American of the Pacific slope is so far from getting his character by inheritance that in most cases he was an adult before he acquired its first rudiment. Yet, with remarkable uniformity, adventurers from any European society, from New England or from Carolina, all alike and quickly respond to the powerful local conditions, natural and conventional, to which all comers are subjected in transmontane mining regions. Undoubtedly this type of character would be still more definite and emphatic had .the common proportion of women and children from the first par- ticipated its influences, and intensified their personal impressions. Therefore, the comparatively recent rise of Chicago is no argument against the assertion that her people have a marked, distinctive, and definite character, of which her natives are heirs as a Scotchman is heir to cunning, or an Irishman to wit. It is not a question of time, but of circumstances; and to these, at least in their singularity, must be allowed the utmost degree of efficiency in the case of Chicago. Chicago Not Boastful. — The reputation of Chicago is flattering ; T64 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. yet that species of public spirit which remains dissatisfied without a right to exult upon demonstrable merit would be displeased with most of the praise; not because there is too much, but because it is misapplied in great degree. Chicago is applauded for the boldness of its enterprise, and excused for the excess of its pretensions. It is treated as a heady youth, good at heart, but a little out of his senses with thinking of what great things he has done ; who will get soberer as he gets older. This notion is natural, because it is the simplest figure which could engage the imagination of a public always genial to success. But it is quite gratuitous ; Chicago is perfectly sober. True, if, instead of four hundred thousand individuals, personified Chicago were an actual being, the work done and the boasting heard would both have to be reconciled in the one person. But in fact, boastful Chicago is' a different being — a being who is loud because the real Chicago is quiescent. Of this there are two kinds of evidence, viz. : (i) It must have been observed that there is a sportive and playful vein of extrava- gance always found in public boastings, whether in the local press or through other channels, when issuing from Chicago. This species of unassuming banter is too familiar in personal manifestation to be classed with the settled complacency of self-admiration, or the joke- less intolerance of swaggering egotism. Philadelphia studies, looks in the stately circles of the Fifth Ward, and coolly announces the con- clusions to which the world has come about a matter. New York, in the unaffected sobriety of fixed habit, discourses of the " provin- cial towns " of the Continent, without discrimination whether they number a thousand or five hundred thousand people ; and Boston, with the confidence of a doting grandmother, chides Cincinnati, St. Louis, or Chicago, as if they were engaged, about stick horses or sugar- plums. Thus is boasting exemplified when inspired by real conceit. (2) If boasting were a serious characteristic at Chicago, it is certain that somebody would make a systematic business of it — somebody, we mean, who would recognize it as a public object, and, as such, subserve it, for his own interest, with an elaborate, exhaustive, and ingenious array of everything that could be gathered to flatter the the pride of Chicago citizens, by an artful appeal to the deliberate judgment of the world. But on the contrary, beyond the practical needs of men in their business, and a meagre collection of historical particulars, the comparative indifference of Chicago to her own real glory has made the researches of the historical student a difficult CHICAGO CHARACTERISTICS. 165 and, hitherto, thankless task. In Boston, the assiduity of a lifetime would not be considered wasted, if at length rewarded by discover- ing indubitably the color of Miles Standish's feather ; Dut in Chicago, the precise date of the first telegraphic communication lies in the conflicting recollections of old citizens. In brief, we think it may be candidly assumed that, as a people, Chicagoans are not self-conceited, and that the voluble swagger and vulgar brag which Eastern people are at so much pains to excuse is the harmless practice of an inconsiderable proportion of the inhab- itants of the Lakeside city. Ring Rule Impracticable in Chicago. — Surprising as the assertion may be to many, we are not quite the first to say that Chicagoans are not an impulsive people. The quantity of enthusiasm in the prevalent sense is not a characteristic, and the frantic fluctuation of public sentiment which deform Boston annals, and keep New York on the brink of violence from year to year, are actually without ana- logue in Chicago. The mortifying dependence of the public peace upon the conduct of a few individuals in community is here un- known. The spectacle of a bold aspirant, whether in politics or any other of the competitions of ambition, in high social ranks, domina- ting his equals, and through them, the mass, by means of bands of hired bullies from the very bottom of degradation, can be known to Chicagoans only by hearsay. Such alliances are swiftly disgraceful, and the class from whom the bludgeon, billy, or unprincipled muscle can be recruited for hire would offer their wicked services to no per- son who aspires to public influence or social consideration. The conservative ballast of Chicago is indisputably stable and sound. Were a low ignoramus to be brought to the bench of justice in Chi- cago by a successful combination of corporate intrigue and black- guard intimidation, it is certain that this sentiment would constrain him to resign his office. The meanest members of the bar would refuse to practice before him, open contempt of his authority could be punished only at the risk of a dangerous applause of contumacy, and, above all, the press would be impelled to unceasing and unspar- ing censure. No person connected with such an attempt could escape irretrievable disgrace. Frankness is eminently a Chicago characteristic. Cooperative fraud is irksome and unwieldy among a people who are habitually open and unreserved in their expressions and manners. The elabo- rate and complexing craft of the older cities is an unmanageable l66 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. thing in Chicago, where if a man is a scoundrel, he can hope for few with whom to divide the burden of concealing it. Many might be willing but are not able. Intrigue and craft are rife enough, but they cannot countervail habitual openness of manners far enough to become formidable in safe secrecy. From this trait results several interesting consequences : Everything is Public. — One is that from the daily press to the cas- ual colloquies of street-car passengers, everything that happens is published. People have so little reserve about their own affairs that only slight traces exist of that anxious care with which delicate per- sonal matters, and those involving reputable or distinguished persons, have been guarded from publicity. The worst of Chicago may be seen or read of any day, and so strangely excessive is this contempt of concealment, that Chicago is reputed a remarkably wicked place, with all the statistics of the subject distinctly in her favor ! Whether the membership of churches, or of Sunday schools, the number of arrests in a given period, the proportion of convicts, the catalogue of crimes and misdemeanors, the number of foundlings, the percentage of divorces to marriages, the particulars of houses of ill repute or of gambling, or in fact, in any line of inquiry which may be adopted, it is a fact that the comparison is honorably in favor of Chicago, when- made with either of the Eastern cities, notably with Boston. Traits of the Native Chicagoan. — The native of Chicago is not the lean, sad, intense, subjective Yankee, nor. the dilatory, fat, demon- strative dullard of the Susquehanna or the Hudson valley ; but he is always florid, plethoric, laborious, well-fed, jolly and complacent. A driving worker in daylight, a good sleeper of nights ; open, loqua- cious, communicative, generous, gregarious. He loves self-reliance as the Irishman loved solitude, i. e., with his crony or his sweetheart. He is prone to do things in partnership, and loves to promote his par- ticular trade, however small, by a show of promoting the city at large. If even he cannot " see it," he is unwilling to have the fact suspected; for the honor of commercially glorifying the city is something in which the humblest Chicagoan desires to have a share. Not in pro- lix disquisition and droning precept, but in practical habit of thought and work, he comprehends division of labor, mutual dependence and cooperation of effort. Whatever he has to do, from the invention of a way to market the produce without " money to move the crops," to the institution of an alley laundry, he must first try the expediency of the idea by framing it into a cooperative plan. If it will not hold HABITS OF THE CHICAGOAN. l6j water on the joint stock principle, he accepts that proof of its un- soundness and invents something else that will. Let this propen- sity stand on its own exalted footing. It has had an illustrious test. It is this, brought to settled habit long before the Great Fire, which accounts for the possibility of the following fact, viz. : that a visitor to Chicago now who had no knowledge of the place but the complete sta- tistics of trade for 1870-7 1, and 72, would refuse to believe that a confla- gration during that period had destroyed most of the business part of the city. His Habits. — The genuine Chicagoan dines at noon, whether he is a laborer or a banker, and eats three hearty meals a day; but not to collide with eastern ways too directly, he calls his supper " dinner " and his dinner " lunch." The latter, if possible, he takes at a public house, during a period of ten minutes. He invariably wears a moustache, generally shaves his chin, gloves his hands only on dress occasions, keeps the sidewalk in business hours, unless to ride a mile, owns his horse and buggy for other times, if his income at all exceeds his subsistence ; is an irreclaimable literary client of the " Times," or else of the " Tribune; " will forgive anything but diluted affectation; values his priest for his parochial energy and success; will apologize for profanity in his presence by swearing that he had never been so provoked in his life ; and either expressly or tacitly connects with all manner of his speech an indication whether or not he " means busi- ness." The Juvenile Chicagoan. — Children of Chicago compare with those of eastern cities almost as health contrasts with disease. A pale child is hardly ever seen ; and the fact that at the schools and other assemblages of children the thin-legged, wax-cheeked, precocious- eyed child, so sadly suggestive to thoughtful men who have read the statistics of early mortality, of diminishing fecundity, and of general degeneracy, and the startling generalizations which have been built upon them, is seldom seen, makes it a refreshing spectacle to pass a public schoolhouse at noon, or to stand near a church in Chi- cago when the Sunday scholars pass out. No pains of the statisti- cian, nor any reasoning of the sociologist, can take from or add to the simple but powerful fact of the general look of the people, and especially the children, in a question of health of a city, moral and material. The infirm man, woman or child is not the inevitable in- cident of every assemblage of half a dozen in Chicago as in New i68 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. York. But in all Chicago there is not one regular ' ; tenement house nor will there ever be one. In a word, the native inhabitants of Chicago are obviously a rich- blooded, strong-nerved, large-brained race, and taking children under puberty as the standard, their looks proclaim them superior to the average American. But taking into account the hypothetical influ- ence of their actual history, and all their demonstrated characteris- tics, it may be said they give the surest of all signs of future great- ness, viz. : a visible ascendancy of human nature, which. is universal and everlasting, over human character, which is secular, local or conventional. Such a people are necessarily practical, since the executive faculty under such conditions is too importunate for work to allow attention to what is not visibly practicable. It is upon such views, perhaps, that the opinion has been expressed by a stranger, that the very best enterprise of the world is seated at Chicago. THE FUTURE OF CHICAGO. C A Deliberative and Analytical Consideration of the Subject — The Cause of Chi- cago's Existence — It Was Not Pioneer Enterprise — She Grew in Spite of the Lack of That — Chicago Harmoniously Developed — Her Trade Depends No Longer on a Few Commodities — Wonderful Strengthening of Weak Parts — Cities Grow Much Faster than Ever Before, and Why — American Examples to this Effect — The Rule Applies with Double Force to Chicago — The Cot- ton and Precious Metal Trades — The Transcontinental Traffic — Will it Chiefly Come This Way ? — Chicago Character as an Element of Her Future Destiny. WE find here in the middle of the continent a large city, and the simplest forms in which it excites our curiosity are for what it consists of, whence it arose, and whither it tends? The fact is familiar that the greatest grain mart of the world is at Chicago ; likewise, that no place on the globe receives so much live stock to be converted into meat. The lake marine, the merchandise trade and the manufactures of the place are treated as but inciden- tal and subordinate. But the facts are far different. If the sources of the people's subsistence be the criterion, statistics elsewhere exhibited in this volume show, surprising as the result may be even to Chicago herself, that manufacturing supports half the inhabitants,, not including ordinary shop industry. It is, then, a manufacturing city rather than a grain, a provision, or even a mercantile place. A Broad Foundation. — But likewise our figures upon the jobbing trade of Chicago show that it greatly exceeds, on the criterion of value, either of the branches of the great produce or shipping trade. But beyond the mere proportions of different branches of trade, the far greater question is, what are the tendencies ? The answer is, the tendency of the receipts of hogs and of grain is an early culmi- nation, while the tendency both of merchandising and of manufac- turing is to indefinite expansion. The reflective reader has already discerned the most appropriate corollary for these facts, viz, : Chi- 170 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. cago development strikingly exemplifies the law of progress from the simple to the complex ; and from diversity back to unity, through integration ; the greatness of no city is assured and permanent until its trade and industry have all the diversity that belongs to its age and country, though a single staple may serve to inaugurate its growth. The advance of Chicago towards that diversity is demon- strated to be at a rate exceeding, in the illustrative elements of mer- chandise and manufacturing, any other large city, American or for- eign. We must, therefore, expect at an early day that pork and grain will be relatively inconsiderable in the vast future aggregates of Chicago business, notwithstanding we have no reason to expect any year of the future to bring less pork and grain than the present year, if as little. The Cotton Tirade Coming. — In the meantime, it is not impossible that the greatest single staple in the world may find its way to Chi- cago instead of New York, viz. : the cotton of the Southern States. Such an event would enhance Chicago as much as a gift of capital equal to the public debt of the United States. Nevertheless, should the entire produce trade dwindle to a petty interest, it could arrest Chi-, cago development only by happening too soon, or if not, then too sud- denly; for Chicago is hereafter to prosper as the Merchant and the Artisan of the Great West, and not as its mere factor, broker and .commission agent, as heretofore. In all the fullness of the metaphor, ^therefore, Chicago is to expand. But literally, also, that city is to expand ; and we think it worthy express notice that no other large city is so perfectly conformed to •the modern urban idea. But before attempting to present its future, let us look back a moment. The Cause of Chicago. — What built Chicago? Let us answer, a junction of Eastern means and Western opportunity. The East had an excess of emprise and capital which as naturally pushed West, on lines of latitude, as water runs down hill. Whatever be the phi- losophy of it, such is the induction of all experience. But what made the opportunity ? We answer, the simple fact that the district of country within two hundred and fifty miles of Chicago filled up with settlers. The extent, character and productive capac- ity of that comparatively small district adequately account for Chi- cago if we contemplate Lake Michigan as a stream, with its mouth in free communication with a vast system of navigation ; its head in the very middle of that district, and Chicago at that head. Given WHAT THE PIONEERS DID N T KNOW. 171 thus much, and in addition what would have been the same had there never been a Chicago — for example, railroads, — and Chicago became inevitable. Greatness Thrust Upon Her. — The case is altogether peculiar. There was no local aspiration. Chicago was a large business focus before enterprise was a local characteristic. In the history of no other emporium of business do we find anything more marvellous than the historical fact, that Chicago grew great without ambition ; not from humility, but from the inveterate hesitation of petty ideas. How strangely this contrasts with the prevalent but demonstrably groundless boast of a locally inherent self-making spirit. Never was a great city less its own architect ; never an established and splendid spirit of enterprise, such as now reigns in Chicago, a more purely ac- quired excellence. A Pozan for our Pioneers. — There is no doubt that the original inhabitants of Chicago were among the least enterprising in America, and the cause is simple but sufficient, viz. : the insuperably repulsive site for the city. An extraordinary prescience would have been requisite to realize how whole square miles of territory could be profitably lifted out of the mud. St, Louis, Quincy, Milwaukee, St. Paul, Dubuque, Keokuk, Indianapolis, Toledo, and a hundred west- ern cities and villages demonstrated their enterprise — cheerfully submitting to municipal taxation, or withdrawing capital from their respective lines of trade for the advantages of improved communica- tion ; but as a municipality, Chicago never invested a dollar in a railroad. Exceptional citizens struggled for years against the sense- less intolerance of the rest, in the attempt to get a railroad as far as Freeport. The merchants of Baltimore, as early as 1828, had appre- ciated even the then collossal enterprise of a railroad to the Ohio river, while those of Chicago, as late as 1851, with despicable stupid- ity, were grieving over the prospect of having their trade scattered along a line of country shops for fifty miles or more, in consequence of the opening of railroad access for their own customers ! Grain was flowing in by millions of bushels a year, while dealers yet re- tained the habit of exploring the town, half bushel in hand, to hunt farmers' wagons for street competition and huckstering dicker. The Birth of Confidence. — But these very facts, perhaps, account for the uncommon solidity and breadth of the existing business spirit of Chicago. Without the brilliant but unsteady inspiration of spon- taneous enterprise, the native Chicagoan passively acquired a mag- 172 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. nificent business optimism, by the influence and experience in extra- ordinary contrast to that of men in general. Greatness was forced upon Chicago as a golden subjugation. The inhabitants of past days could no better withstand the uncredited but splendid boon of eastern railroads, than they could have resisted a pestilence. They had to accept it. But in such realizations, the younger Chicagoans, in respect to public undertakings, are a peculiar people. They have their doubts, like other men, about details, but public and general success they can doubt only by doubting the integrity of the universe. Now, a spirit of enterprise, grounded on actual experience, is exempt from the fluctuations of enthusiasm, and is therefore the best in the world. But in hardly any other place in the world has there been such an experience. Creative Power to Spare. — We have said what a very cursory analysis of the facts has often shown to others that a comparatively small area of tributary country has, with her Eastern connections, built Chicago. If regard be had to the now existing and greatly in- creasing railway connections with the West and Southwest — after every concession which even prejudice could demand, it must still be seen how tremendously the increase of tributary area promises in- crease of the city. And this brings us to a glance at the future. Chicago has Just Begun to Grow. — Our first observation is that much needless shame-facedness is indulged by those who reckon the future of large prosperous cities of the present day. The most par- simonious use of deductions, frequently carries us to figures of un- precedented magnitude. For example : London, of late years, increases at a compound ratio, which, upon following it up for a few generations, startles the calculator. But this hesitation will be found to be really more visionary than a modest but rational acquiesence in fair analogies ; for the fact is, this is the age of great cities. Al- most every great city on the globe is growing ; and the increase of the great capitals of Europe — London, Paris, Vienna, Berlin, St. Petersburg, Madrid ; even Rome — is greater than has ever been known before. But this is not all. Mankind are becoming urban. It is the vast multiplication of villages, since gunpowder abolished walls, which has justified the estimate that ten times as many people lead urban lives as did so in antiquity. But, on the other hand, improved means of communication has at the same time relieved the ancient, and, of older cities, still irreme- CITIES OUTSTRIPPING THE COUNTRY. I 73 diable, crowding. The co-operation of both causes tends to modify the distinction between rural and intra-mural life, and certainly war- rants the hope, that mankind need not forever alternate between the torpor of the country and the madness of the town, but may have liberty without solitude and reciprocity without friction. This tendency to urban life, and its indisputably prevalent oper- ation at this day in all the cities of Europe and America, lodges on the objector the onus of proving how any given city comes to be an exception. Certainly no one would attempt such a proof against Chicago. If there is a presumption in favor of the further growth of great cities in general, it is a presumption of the highest assurance in the present case. Figures Confirmatory of the Above Statements. — That the Great West is to experience no arrest of development must be assumed without hesitation; and that her great cities will develop, at least, in proportion, is assured even by analogy with those of the East. The following figures touching population at several dates in the United States at large, and in the city of New York and suburbs, are in point : United States. New York, Etc. 1830.... 13,000,000 225,000 1840 .... 17,000,000 360,000 1850. ...23,000,000 654,o00 I860.... 31,000,000 1,093,000 1870.. ..38,500,000 1,362,000 It is seen that the urban population at the site of New York was about six times as great in 1870 as in 1830, while the population of the country at large was but about two and a half times as great. Take New England, where increase was slower : New England. Boston. 1840.... 2,235,000 106,611 1870---.3,857,000 274,353 Boston's increase in the thirty years was more than two and a half times ; that of New England at large, being little over an addi- tion of a half. Taking the State of Pennsylvania for the thirty years •ending in 1870, the population little more than doubled, while that of Philadelphia nearly trebled. The result was still more significant in the County of Alleghany, containing Pittsburgh and its suburbs. If, now, we take country adjacent to Chicago, for example, the States of Illinois, Wisconsin and Iowa, and contrast them with Cook County, 174 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. containing Chicago, and restrict the period to only twenty years, we have the result following : The States. Cook Co. 1850... .1,348,000 43,000 1870.-4,787,000 350,000 Thus, the rural population's increase was a trifle over three and a half times ; that of the urban population in question, more than eight times. Cumulative Proofs that the Metropolis Grows Much Faster than its District. — Similar results are reached by taking the case of Balti- more, San Francisco, Cincinnati, St. Louis, or almost any other city, though in no instance is the contrast so strong as in that of Chicago. The nearest approach is the case of Baltimore, raising the interesting reflection that the railroad connections of that city enable her to keep up a high rate of increase upon the tribute of remote points, even after her neighboring territory has fallen short. This is an earnest for Chicago, should all the territory east of Nebraska cease to develop, or — a supposition hardly less improbable — carry its trade to other cities. Precious Metals, Imports, etc. — But other considerations arise which cannot but be inspiring. It is no longer a hypothesis that the pre- cious ores can be reduced cheaper in Chicago, after the long carriage, than in the mines ; the business has now regularly settled itself in that city, where, at no distant day, the gold bars, silver and quick- silver will first enter the mint or the market. It is, then, as if the Golden Gate were at the mouth of Chicago river. In direct impor- tation from Europe, it is indisputable, after ample experiment, that the only obstacle to an importing trade, limited only by western con- sumption of foreign merchandise — practically, unlimited in the future — is the very vincible habit of making New York importers judges of the market. The trade is not a simple one ; the studious and vigilant practice of importing merchants on the seaboard is matter of training, and the Chicagoan has had none such. His cor- respondents abroad, his representatives in New York or Boston, his habitual study of foreign data on the state of the markets and cog- nate conditions, are all to acquire. But while time is requisite, it is obvious that it cannot be very long time. The Asiatic Trade. — With regard to the trans-continental trade, the ablest expounders in Europe of the laws of commerce, reluctant as they confessedly were, to concede such a thing, have long agreed FUTURE OF CHICAGO. 1 75 that its offing for Europe is destined inevitably to be on the eastern shores, and not on the western borders of the vast Asiatic continent; they do, indeed, question how long the Suez canal may defer the day of its realization by Americans, and they differ in opinion whether the Isthmus of Panama or the trans-continental railways of the United States are to present the better routes. But that question, in the language of the " Mark Lane Express " (English), was virtually ended when Americans had actually opened a ten days railroad route from ocean to ocean. Should the great inter-continental trade of the world reverse its route, it will certainly follow the track across the interior for all travel, and most of the valuable freights. When is this to be realized ? It will not be soon, in the sense of a smaller matter; but if within fifty years, will not the time be getting daily shorter, and will not the influence of the prospect, thus daily growing more substantial, oper- ate with constantly augmenting effect on the local prosperity of places on the route ? The great primary condition for the accession of this mighty tide of commerce, is the attainment of a quantity of commerce that by, as it were, overflowing old channels, will release it from habit. But the statistics of Dr. Lesseps, and the reasoning of Laboulaye and Mill, have familiarized the thinkers of the age with the enormous rate at which exchangeable property increases in the world. It is not so much a question between routes of trade as a question of enough of them from nation to nation. In the event of this great trans-continental trade being realized, no serious question has, we believe, been made of late years, that its greatest emporium in the world would be at Chicago. Chicago Character an Important Element in the Calculation. — We have elsewhere had something to say of the personal characteristics of Chicago people. We may say here that in a question of the prog- ress of a people, the criterion is to be found in the amount of their latent energy. This, from the nature of the case, is to be hypothet- ically estimated. If the latent power of Chicago is at a maximum, no thoughtful person will dispute this proposition, viz. : more inge- nuity is required to imagine causes which are to prescribe its limit than to demonstrate a future of hitherto unknown greatness. But what is the fact on this head? With the unimpeachable answer, we conclude the topic in hand, viz. : A person ignorant of everything connected with Chicago but the 176 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. statistics of its trade and commerce during the years 1870, 1871 and 1872, would certainly deny the possibility that during that time a conflagration had destroyed most of the business part of the city. The immense energy which sustains the prosperity of the place con- tinued to sustain it throughout the period ; and yet, from some hith- erto undrafted source, came the vast and sudden energy which in two years rebuilt the city ! The work is now finished, and this mighty power is latent again. But how great is such a reserve of force ! THE CAPITAL OF THE INTERIOR. L Further Calculations by a Contributor Concerning the Future Growth of Chicago — Based Simply upon the Minimum Expected Development of the Mississippi Valley. "^HE views which follow are those of Albert H. Walker, Esq., X kindly offered for incorporation in this work. We give them without alteration, though they do not take into the account all the elements which, in the opinion of the editor, enter therein. We should remark, in preface to the subjoined, or rather, in sup- plement to the preceding chapter, that the population of Chicago, in 1870, according to the tables of the U. S. census, was 298,977 — an enumeration by common consent so moderate, that we have no com- punction in at least rounding up the figures to 300,000. In the summer of 1871, the school census showed a population of .367,000. This we will reject, out of deference to our fellow conservatives, and pass to the very careful canvass made in the Spring of 1873, by Mr. Richard Edwards, directory publisher. He has 133,600 names enrolled in his directory, none of which have been challenged as fictitious or duplicate; and upon the basis of this number, arguing from his extensive experience in this line, Mr. E. insists that there are 465,000 inhabitants in Chicago; but to make up this number, Mr. Edwards reckons in, as he ought, the suburban families, whose heads have their business in the city proper. There are plenty of means of accounting for this wonderful growth, and observant Chicagoans readily believe it. Nevertheless, we choose to accept it with another grain of conservative salt, and to assume that on the 1st day of January, 1873, two and a half years from the date of the federal census, the population of Chicago had only grown to 400,000, a gain of 100,000 in the period named. Now, observe that we do not resort to the trick of percentage — a very untrustworthy method — since it is a less feat for a small town 12 178 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. to grow twenty-five, fifty, or one thousand per cent., than for a great city to do the same. We find an absolute addition to the city's population, for the reasons named before, of 100,000 souls, in two and one-half years, and we think we have convinced the reader that this rate (not ratio) will be kept up during the next decade. From June 30th, 1870 to January 1st, 1884, will be twelve and one-half years, or five periods of two and one-half years. Very well, then : what will be the contribution of the country to the city, added to the • city's own recruiting power by births, in five periods, each of which witnesses a growth of 100,000 souls? Why, 500,000, making an aggregate population, ten years from next January 1st, of 800,000. THE FUTURE OF CHICAGO. BY ALBERT H. WALKER. About the prospective growth of our city, there is still great diversity of opinion. One class, basing their views rather upon faith than upon any well-grounded basis of calculation, hold the wildest expectations ; while another class, ever ready to re- press hope and forecast failure, see little in our circumstances upon which to found any certain promise of greatness. It is to consider the elements that go to make increase of population and wealth, and to approximately measure the bearing of those elements upon the question of our future, that this article is written. Two branches of human employment, together with the collateral business of each, constitute the basis of a modern city. They are Manufactures and Commerce. In proportion as one or both of these are thriving, in that proportion does the city prosper. Chicago has heretofore been chiefly a commercial city, engaged in exchang- ing the wheat, p.ork, wool, beef, corn and other products of the West for the cloth, tea, sugar, leather, coffee, stoves and other products of the East and of the Old World. As the West has grown, the business has grown with it, and with it has grown the prosperity of the' city. All understand what the growth has been, and it is our pi-esent object to inquire how the business we have named, and other business we are to consider, taken in connection with the increase of the whole Northwest, is to affect that growth in the future. The country tributary to Chicago consists chiefly of the States of Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Nebraska, and the territories of Dacotah, Wyoming and Montana. In all this region Chicago has no rival, and can have none. Other cities will grow and prosper at different points, but there are none who doubt that Chicago is, and is to be in all the future, the metropolis of this our Northwest. Let us, therefore, consider what are the elements of the prosperity of this vast country, and by them measure the future of the city. The States and Territories we have named contain an area of over 700,000 square miles — an extent larger than all those countries combined which we call the Con- tinet of Europe, viz. : France, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Belgium, Holland and Denmark. Those countries, however, contain a population of 128,000,000 AVERAGE YEARLY GROWTH OF THE NORTHWEST. 1 79 people, while the Northwest has only a little over 5,000,000. Comparison shows, nevertheless, that in point of natural ability to support a large population, the North- west exceeds the nations to which we have referred. The average fertility of our soil is greater. We have a vastly greater variety and value of mineral wealth, and our land is unexhausted by centuries of kingly misrule. Nor does the Northwest lack in beauty and grandeur more than in material bounty. Its rivers and lakes are larger and longer, and more useful for commerce, than any other in the world. Its mountains are no less grand than the Alps ; while the great National Park in Wy- oming contains more natural wonder^ in its 3,000 square miles than any other equal' surface of the globe can boast. We may add to these also the even greater advantages of our free government an d liberal laws, which give the poorest and humblest equal rights as to acquisition of property with the highest of the land ; and taking into account all these elements of attractiveness to the peoples of the world, none can doubt that it lies in the not distant future to see the Northwest contain a population of 50, 000, 000 souls. When we consider that even then the countries we have named, with less area and fewer advantages, now have a population more than two and one-half times greater than this, the moderation of our estimate is manifest. We now inquire when, in view of these facts, and the rate of our increase in the past, and a fair calculation of the future, these 50,000,000 of people will be ours. We find from the census reports that when we make a due allowance for the dimi- nution of the increase of population on account of the late war, that the average ratio of increase of our population for each decade in the past has been one-fourth less than for the preceding decade. That is, if in one decade the increase was 200 per cent., in the next it would be 150 per cent. If the census should show 50,000 people at one time, and should in the ten years increase 200 per cent., it would of course show 150,000 at the next taking, and would for the next decade increase 150 per cent., and therefore show 375,000 at the next enumeration. Substantially this increase took place in the Northwest during the two decades between 1820 and 1840, though the growth during those years was somewhat larger than that in the illus- tration we have used. The average, however, during the entire history of the North- west has been as stated. Continuing this ratio into the future would give us an increase of 60 per cent, during the present decade, 45 per cent, during the next, 33^ per cent, for the last decade in the century, 25 and 5-i6ths per cent, for the first decade in the next century, and about 19 per cent, only in the decade ending with 1920. A careful estimate, however, based upon the statistics of births and deaths, gives 20 per cent, as the rate at which our population increases per decade without any accessions from outside of our own territory. It is certain, however, that im- migi-ation into our Northwest will not cease as soon as 1910, and it therefore follows that 25 per cent, is a greater diminution of ratio of increase than a careful prognos- tication of the future will justify. To be wholly within bounds, we will only reduce this figure to 20 per cent., and base our calculation of the future upon that rate, instead of the 25 per cent, which has heretofore been the rule, as we have seen. Applying this ratio of 20 per cent., which we have shown to be a fair one, we find that it gives the Northwest a population of nearly nine millions in 1880, somewhat over thirteen millions in 1890, nearly nineteen millions in 1900, and over thirty millions in 1920. If we were to continue to apply the same rule after 1920, it would, 180 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. until 1930, give us exactly the same increase that we derive from the excess of births over deaths ; after which it would give us a much smaller increase than we derive from that source alone. We will therefore allow, for the purpose of this calcula- tion, that the immigration and emigration of the Northwest will balance each other after 1920, and base our estimate of its subsequent growth upon the natural increase of population alone. In doing so we find that our objective point of fifty millions will be reached two or three years before the middle of the next century, or in seventy-five years from to-day. The 4,000,000 of the whole country at the close of the revolution has increased in less than a hundred years to 40,000,000. Can we, therefore, possibly be wrong in predicting that the 5,000,000 and more the Northwest now contains, will with the greater advantages possessed by it over the average of the United States, be increased to 50,000,000 in a considerably shorter time. When we consider that, as never before, the eyes of the world are upon this land, and that emigration from foreign countries is so rapidly increasing as to alarm the potentates of Europe, and that it is more than probable that during the coming century many of the heavy manufactories of England will be transferred from their exhausted coal and iron fields to our exhaustless ones, no thoughtful man can doubt that our calculation is within, rather than beyond the truth. Our subject now leads us to inquire what bearing and effect this rate of increase in the population of the Northwest will have upon the growth of its metropolis. The people living in Chicago in 1870 were 5^ per cent, of the population of the States and Territories we have named. We shall now attempt to show that we may depend upon the city enjoying in the future a growth, at least, as rapid as that of the country upon which it depends for support. The consumption of the North- west will doubtless substantially keep pace with the increase of its people. It will, however, be more likely to exceed than to fall below it, because as the country grows older the average wealth of the people increases, and with the increase of wealth increases the ability and inclination of the people to buy and to consume- On the other hand, the productions of the Northwest per capita will not diminish, because of the unlimited material, both agricultural and mineral, upon which we have to work. There is one element, however, that will deter Chicago from reap- ing the proportional benefit in the exchanging of the things produced for the thing consumed that she heretofore has. Many of the things consumed that have hereto- fore been produced only in the East, and even in Europe, will soon be manufac- tured in various parts of the West, and being often in direct contact with the con- sumer will not require the intervention of a great commercial city for their exchange. Fully balancing this, however, is the consideration that as the wants of the Northwest increase in magnitude, productions of the Old World that have hereto- fore been obtained through the medium of Eastern cities, will be handled with equal facility and cheapness in Chicago, thus causing a continual growth, and more than a proportionate one, in an element of commerce to which we are entitled, but which we have heretofore largely lost. We hold, therefore, on the whole, that the exchanges of the Northwest made through its metropolis, will increase, at least, as rapidly as its population does, and as those exchanges increase, so also will increase the number of the people required to effect them. Therefore, as a commercial city,. Chicago will keep full pace with the country tributary to it. WHEN WILL CHICAGO REACH X MILLION? l8l The manufactures of Chicago are still in their infancy. Upon them we can make no approximate calculation for want of data in the past. We know, however, that Illinois and Iowa contain some of the most inexhaustable coal measures in the world, and that the shores of Lake Superior contain inexhaustless stores of iron and copper. Who can doubt that the iron and the copper will meet their counter- part, the coal, at the harbor of Chicago, and that vast mills for the various manufac- ture of those metals will here spring up to send their products forth over our matchless railroad system to every part of the Northwest, and, indeed, of the whole country ? In view then of the fact that we have no reason to expect any diminu- tion in the increase of Chicago as a "Commercial city, when compared with the in- crease of the Northwest, and that we have abundant reason to expect its great pro- portionate increase of manufacturers, we are surely safe in assuming that the pro- portion of 5 ^ per cent, she now bears to the whole will, at least, continue to be sus- tained. We may, therefore, expect a population of somewhat over a million souls by the beginning of the next century, and a proportionate growth thereafter, and risk nothing in saying that the child is now living who will not die until Chicago numbers among her people more than three millions of the children of men, and has become the great interior city of a nation more populous than China, and far more powerful and wealthy than all the British Empire. To this certain and splendid future, we would direct the thinking of the youth and manhood of our time. THE LAY OF THE LAND. Geography and Topography of Chicago and its Environs — Elevated Sections and Their Relative Value — Marked Climatic Advantages of Chicago — " Wanted, 400,000 Lots ! " — An Inquiry Into the Household Habits of the Average Chicagoan — Interesting Figures from an Official Source — Bogus Lots, etc. THERE are few persons left in Christendom, of an age consis- tent with an understanding of the first rudiments of the world's affairs, who have not found out, with a reasonable degree of exactness, the location of Chicago, viz., twenty miles from the head of Lake Michigan on the west shore of that body of water, etc., etc., as described in the initial chapter of this book. The topography of the place, as there indicated, was forbidding enough, one would think, to deter the rashest settler from selecting Chicago as a site for residences, whatever attractions it might have for the trader or the manufacturer. The description cited, however, fortunately applies only to the district lying along the river and its branches — a dis- trict which has already been reclaimed by Commerce from the for- bidding condition in which the early settlers found it. Nevertheless, Chicago and the district around it is almost as pro- verbial for its flatness as the people who live there are for the oppo- site quality. Hence, it is but just that it should be here stated that the average height of the country for twelve miles around Chicago is not less than twenty-five feet above the level of the lake, while many points boast an altitude of from one to two hundred feet. Nor are there wanting tens of thousands of intelligent householders who rather avoid than seek the highest points accessible, satisfied with the facilities for drainage which are almost everywhere afforded, and preferring to avail themselves of the cooling lake winds in summer, and avoid the piercing prairie " zephers " of winter. All the Land can be Utilized. — Probably one-tenth of the territory to be reached by an hour's ride from Chicago is undesirable — not ADVANTAGES OF CHICAGO'S CLIMATE. 183 to say unavailable — for residence property. But as this is all fur- nished with abundant water or rail transportation facilities, and is best suited of all for the manufactures which are tending with such wonderful momentum toward Chicago, the question comes up, whether these lands are not the best of all for investments of over a year's duration. Healthfulness of Chicago's Location. — The mortuary statistics of the United States make Chicago one of the healthiest of the large cities. And yet they do not do her justice, since the period covered by them includes years when the precautions against disease were far less efficacious than they now are. The healthfulness of Chi- cago's climate, and especially its superiority in averting pestilence, will at once appear to him who considers that the prevailing winds of this locality are from the southwest, and that their sweep is unin- terrupted by any abrupt elevation. It should be further noted that these winds blow in a direction to bear away quickly any malarious exhalations from the central portions of the city, where they chiefly originate, off over the lake, and not over the residence quarters of the city ; also that the east winds which come (and are very welcome) almost every day in summer, are from the lake, and so cool as to check the development of unwholesome gases. Obvious Climatic Advantages. — -While upon the subject of neuter - ology and sanitary advantages, we refer with pleasure to a statement by so high an authority as Prof. Alex. Winchell, of Michigan University, concerning the average summer and winter temperature of the Lake Michigan region. This statement was prepared for the " Medical Investigator," the leading journal of Homoeopathy ; and, though not written in the interest of Chicago, tells decidedly in its favor. In that paper it is shown that the summer isotherm of Chicago passes through a point some hundred and fifty miles above St. Paul, on the Mississippi river; while the winter isotherm corresponding to Chi- cago's crosses the same river at a point fifty miles below Davenport) Iowa. That is to say, while the mean summer temperature of Chi- cago ascends no higher than that (72 ) of all northern Wisconsin, and not so high as that of St. Paul, the mean winter temperature sinks no lower than that of cities in the Mississippi valley, much far- ther south than Chicago. It is also to be noted that during the month taken by Prof. Winchell for his calculation (July) the propor- tion of lake winds to land winds in Chicago is as 1.27 to 1 ; and to this circumstance we attribute the fact that Chicago is not only much 184 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. less depleted in summer than other American cities, but is actually- attracting many people from St. Louis and other points to the south- ward to spend the summer months. Another Class, Better Than Tourists, Attracted.— Chicago does not, however, aspire to notoriety as a summer resort. She has suburbs along the high bluffs of the lake shore at the north which have such aspirations, and the reader can easily see that those aspirations are likely to be gratified. There is not a place on Lake Michigan where the proportion of lake breezes to land breezes is greater than at Chicago ; and there is not a place off Lake Michigan, and west of the Alleghanies, where good facilities for trade combine with so healthy and comfortable a summer and winter temperature as Chicago possesses. And this consideration is a very practical one, affecting scarcely less than the price of food itself the wages at which labor can profitably employ itself. Manufacturers who, after visiting St. Louis with reference to establishing works there (attracted thither by the pretty romance of an " iron mountain," near by), have decided to locate at Chicago, have usually cited the more healthful location of Chicago as one of the considerations which induced their decision, along with the equally cheap coal, the cheaper raw material of all kinds, and the vastly better market afforded in Chicago. The Lay of the Land. — To return for a moment, to the topography of Cook County. The reader is referred to the small but handy map published herewith. Commencing at the lake shore, and to the south of the city, the territory between the lake shore and the Michigan Southern railroad, extending southward to the farther boundary of the southernmost park, is among the choicest of suburban property; being mostly well elevated, well served with quick railroad commu- nication with the city, and situated along the prolongation of the finest residence thoroughfares of Chicago. The country along the Calumet and around the lake of the same name, is mostly low, with occasional rocky bluffs, well clothed with soil and desirable for resi- dences. The land south of the Calumet is mostly swampy, and hardly worth considering, except with reference to possible manu- factures in the future. The junction of the Danville and Illinois Central railroads at Dalton, for instance, has been suggested as the best sight for a great cotton factory — the facilities for obtaining cot- ton and coal being there combined in the happiest degree. The town of Thornton has never been operated in much with reference TOPOGRAPHY OF COOK COUNTY. 185 to suburban village enterprises except by swindlers who " ran " the somewhat notorious " Park Ridge" subdivision in section 36. The territory along the Rock Island road beyond Englewood (to which point the city settlement has become nearly continuous,) is well adapted to occupation, and is rapidly settling up. Blue Island is the present limit of suburban enterprise, and Washington Heights, situated on a plateau some 125 feet above the level of the lake, may be called the nucleus. (_ The west part of the town of Lake and the east part of the town of Worth have not been much sought after previous to the season of 1873 ; but they afford many eligible sites for suburban villages. Aside from the district mentioned, the town of Worth, like that of Palos and Lyons, with the exception about to be noted, are rather unattract- ive ; much of the land being low and difficult of drainage. Border- ing on the Desplaines river in the town of Lyons, however, is a strip of country well elevated, picturesque and not open to the objection of miasma, which has been raised against the Desplaines country further up and abreast of the city. The town of Cicero is mostly well elevated prairie, draining easily into the South Branch. The country to the west of Cicero, on the Northwestern and Burlington railways, lies high and well ; that on the latter road, just west of Hinsdale, reaching the highest altitude between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi. About the same altitude is claimed for points on the Chicago & Pacific road, however; the altitude at Roselle, 24 miles out, being set down at 191 feet, and that of Ontario, 27^ miles out, at 231 feet. The surface all along the C. & P. road, west of the city limits, is high and rolling. Along the Chicago and St. Paul road, and the Wisconsin division of the Northwestern road, the topography is in every way favorable to rapid settlement, being, for the most part, a beautiful, high rolling prairie, abounding in fine farms, broken only by the frequent sub- urban villages which already dot the country with neat villages along the latter line. Passing around farther eastward, the prairie first becomes flatter and lower, and then gives way to the sandy but by no means sterile ridge which skirts Lake Michigan from the city northward far past the limits of Cook County. The shore at Evanston becomes deci- dedly high and abrupt, furnishing picturesque sites for villas, ren- dered all the more so by the sharp ravines by which the shore is cut. Area and Subdivisions. — Now, how much of this territory has been l86 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. tampered with by the surveyor and the speculator ? No small por- tion, as will appear from the figures of the extract given below from a recent report of the County Surveyor. It should be remarked, before quoting this report, however, that there are many old subdi- visions, relics of stage - coach times, or of some period of railroad or speculating mania antecedent to the crash of 1857, and which are now practically vacated, though still carried on the county records; also that the County of Cook includes a score or more of villages which have never been considered in the light of suburbs, but whose numerous lots are reckoned in the surveyor's total. There are sixteen whole townships, and a very large area in other townships — that is, about 800 square miles out of the 932 in the county — which have never been speculated in as sites of possible suburban villages; and it maybe presumed that of the 74 square miles shown by the surveyor's figures to have been subdivided out- side of the city limits, not more than 50 square miles of it (including the thickly settled region south of the city,) represent lands now oc- cupied or for sale in the fifty active suburbs of the city. Interesting Official Details. — Says Alexander Wolcott, County Sur- veyor (who puts himself under oath for the purpose) : 1. That the Government survey of Cook County, as appears from a certified, copy of the original survey, (the property of this office,) shows the total number of acres in Cook County to have been (less fraction) 596,831. 2. That the total number of acres in Cook County liable to assessment for 1873 not subdivided into town or city lots (except the property of railroad companies) is (less fraction) 524,610. 3. That the total number of acres of railroad property in Cook County liable to assessment for 1873, and not subdivided into town or city lots is (less fraction*) 1,567. 4. That the total number of acres (including town and city lots reduced to acres) in Cook County, occupied by churches, cemeteries, schools, Poor House farm, Re- form School, charitable institutions, Bridewell, engine houses, Illinois Central Rail- road, and public grounds, exempt by law from taxation, is (less fraction) 4,665. 5. That the total number of acres in the City of Chicago, sub-divided into lots (not including property exempt by law) is (less fraction) 18,413. 6. That the total number of acres in the County of Cook, outside of the City of Chicago, sub-divided into lots (not including property exempt by law) is (less fraction) 47,570. 7. The original number of acres in Cook County was 596,831. 8. That there are 104,411 lots in the City of Chicago, including 1,630 belonging to railroad companies, and excepting those exempt by law (which are included in the fourth statement above) and the average number of lots per acre in the City of Chicago, is 5.67. LOT SWINDLES, ETC. 187 9. That there are 120,301 lots outside of the City of Chicago, in Cook County, in- cluding 222 belonging to railroad companies, and excepting those exempt by law (which are included in the fourth statement above), and the average number of lots per acre outside the City of Chicago, in Cook County, is 2.52. 10. That within six miles from the City of Chicago, there are in Cook County, 94,942 lots. 11. That over six miles and under twelve miles from the City of Chicago, there are in Cook County, 9,731 lots. 12. That over twelve and under eighteen miles from Chicago, there are in Cook County 8,475 l°ts. 13. That over eighteen miles and under twenty-four miles from Chicago, there are in Cook County 6,416 lots. 14. That over twenty-four miles and under thirty miles from Chicago, there are in Cook County 737 lots. 15. The total number of lots in Cook County, outside the City of Chicago, is 120,301. 16. That there are 25,000 lots in Cook County, 25 feet front by 125, that are of no more value than they were as acre property, for the reason that they lie under water or in low, marshy ground. 17. That there are over 2,000 lots in Cook County, 7^ feet front, by 40 feet deep, with a two-foot alley and a five-foot street. In addition to their diminutive size, they lie under Water, about twenty-three miles from the Court House, and six miles from any railroad, in section 19, town 37, range 13, a locality where drainage can never be successfully accomplished. Bogus Lots. — It should be remarked, with reference to the "i7thly" of this official, that the lot swindle there referred to (perpetrated by one Scott and his accessories, under the name of " The Boulevard Addition to Chicago,") is the only downright swin- dle of the kind known in Chicago for years. No doubt other dealers have nattered themselves that they were cheating their customers badly in shoving remote and unpromising lots upon them ; but so rapid has been the development of the city and its surroundings, by new railroads and otherwise, that the buyers of bad bargains have> by holding on, come out gainers in spite of their own stupidity ! Household Habits of the Chicago People. — We are about to ask our- selves the question, how much land the population of Chicago will require during the next ten years, for residence purposes alone ? Before doing so, however, let us consider for a moment the regime" under which the city of Chicago is developing. It is a regime un- known to Eastern cities, except in a moderate degree in Philadel- phia — a regime born both of our peculiar topography and the im- provements of the present period. Chicago has not only many square miles of available building l88 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. sites all about her, each as good as the rest (and a little better, if you accept the opinions of the neighborhood,) but she has unprece- dented facilities for reaching them, viz., a dozen railways, each solic- itous to build up a large suburban traffic, and willing, therefore, to furnish sufficient accommodations at low fares. The effect of these centrifugal forces is, at the start, exemplified along our street-rail- ways. Though these afford but slow and uncomfortable transit, they have served to scatter the population of Chicago over an area of five or six times greater than the same population would occupy in New York or Boston, which not only occupy less expansive sites, but which were settled, and the living habits of their people largely formed, before street-railway facilities had been introduced. Tendency Toward the Suburbs. — The same tendency is still fur- ther and more conclusively demonstrated by the rapidity. with which Chicago workers are now flocking into the suburbs to live. The fact is thoroughly established that ninety-nine Chicago families in every hundred will go an hour's ride into the country, or toward the coun- try, rather than live under or over another family, as the average New Yorker or Parisian does. This tendency will be increased in future years, rather than diminished ; for we may safely calculate upon the new inventions and reform legislation of the day to im- prove the means of transit, and cheapen the charges therefor, at least as rapidly as the distance necessary to be traveled by the new settler becomes greater. Wanted : 400,000 Lots. — It is claimed by those who look at this subject superficially, that there is already land enough, and more than enough, subdivided in the vicinity of Chicago to supply all the actual wants of the population of the city and its environs for many years to come. Let us see whether this theory will hold water. We have seen already that the population of Chicago is an expan- sive one, in a literal and horizontal sense, as well as in whatever fig- urative senses the reader may choose to apply the term. We have seen, also, that the inducements to spread over a large area are in- creasing, not merely in Chicago, but in all modern cities; hence, that this centrifugal force, as we call it, is increasing, rather than diminishing. We also perceive, by the report above cited, that there are now in the city of Chicago 104,000 lots, and in the country, outside of Chi- cago, 120,000 lots; of the latter number, however, some 27,000 are branded by the surveyor as comparatively worthless and practically HOW MANY LOTS WANTED IN SEVEN YEARS? 189 out of the market. We assume that fully one-third of the whole number of outside lots (120,000) must be deducted on this account, and on account of occupancy for other than residence purposes, and on account of erroneous subdivision, whereby what is properly a single lot is reckoned on the plat as two. This leaves the actual number of available residence and business lots outside the city at 80,000. Now, in the city of Chicago, an area not less than ten square miles is occupied for business rather than residence purposes ; by railroads, manufactures, docks, warehouses, etc. This area is sub- divided into about 60,000 lots of the size (20x125) m °st usual in the business quarter of the city. We thus have left only 44,000 lots for residence purposes ; and in ten years' time the area of business will certainly have expanded 50 per cent., leaving barely 14,000 of these 104,000 city lots for residence purposes. In ten years' time what will be the population of Chicago ? In a preceding chapter we have shown that 800,000 is the likeliest num- ber, or rather the minimum number, under fair auspices. Dividing this population into families of five persons, we have 160,000 families to be quartered on the 14,000 square lots. Allowing each family a lot (and it must be remembered that while more than one family is sometimes quartered on a single lot, a single family often occupies several lots), there remain 146,000 families to be provided for outside of the present city limits within the next ten years. Of the 80,000 available lots outside the city, certainly not less than 20,000 are already appropriated by the 40,000 suburban residents, leaving 60,000 unappropriated. Turned loose in the country, where land is plenty and cheap, these 146,000 householders will not lose sight of the principal object of their going outside of the crowded city, viz. : plenty of room and the pure air, the freedom and the " chance to grow," which come with this boon. They will not, therefore, content themselves with less than an average of two lots each — many indulging in a block of one or several acres, and some, to be sure, putting up with a single lot. This will require 292,000 lots for the actual occupancy of the surplus city population, with a demand for at least one-fourth as much more for the purposes of local trading and for the manufac- tures, schools, etc., which may seek the different villages, and the public grounds, church grounds, etc., which may be dedicated by the local authorities. This swells the aggregate to 365,000 lots, and a 190 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. very moderate allowance for the margin of unsold property held by the inhabitants themselves either for speculation or to ensure them- selves the right kind of neighbors — which is always to be found in the most completely settled villages, — still further increases it to 487,- 000 lots. Deducting now from this sum the 60,000 lots already in the mar- ket, we have 426,000 suburban lots to be demanded within the next ten years. Let us allow the conservative a discount of the odd 26,000 at once. Doing this, and reducing the lots to acres, we find that, for the purposes named in our calculation, leaving out of the account all extra demands as for new railroads, public works, etc., we find that 80,000 acres or 125 square miles of territory will be demanded by the ultimate consumers within the next decade. This fits out each of our twelve railroads in the suburban traffic with a continuous belt of village population, as densely settled as they should be and extending for half a mile on each side of the track for ten miles. Or, suppose the stations to be two miles apart — which is much better, the villages would extend, at only that interval, twenty miles out on each and every railroad now in the suburban traffic. The result will be instead, however, the development of addi- tional roads between those now in operation, and consequently, more territory accessible without more miles of travel for the denizens of any particular village. The author leaves the reader to judge for himself what prices the 400,000 suburban lots will bring, and how much territory, additional to the 80,000 acres out of which they are to be carved will be brought into the market by their occupancy They ought not to bring more than $1,000 per lot, nor to enhance the prices of an equal amount of neighboring property to more than $3,000 per acre ; but between this average ($4,000 per acre) and the average prices now asked for land outside of the city there is a wide and a very sug- gestive margin. Part III. TRACTS AND TITLES. > o o < o > THE CHICAGO REAL ESTATE MARKET. C Historical Review of the Traffic in Chicago Land — The most Ancient Trans- actions — Prices in the Early Day — A Solitary Horseman's Appraisal — Early Canal Sales — Inflation of Prices in 1835-6 — The Crash of '37 — State Relief for Buyers — Prices of Central Business Lots in 1842-3-4 — Prices and Dealers Twenty Years Ago — Flush Times Again — Chicago Real Estate in the Panic of 1857 — In the War — A General Advance — The Fire Comes — Its Effect on Prices and Salability of Land — Volume of the Traffic for the Past Four Years. DURING the year 1872 there was, exclusive of all minor sales outside the Chicago city limits, $61,203,550 worth of land lying within seven miles of the Chicago Court House, conveyed by warranty deed, and the instruments of -conveyance duly recorded by the County Recorder. The aggregate of such transfers during the preceding two or three years, though never reaching so large a figure, had not been far from a million dollars per week, on the average. This immense volume of real estate sales, kept up with steady increase from year to year, at once stamps the Chicago land traffic as an extraordinary one, and arouses general interest in its history. We shall do what we can, in the time at command, to satisfy this interest. The First Transaction. — The history of the real estate business in Chicago, though teeming with so many incidents and episodes that no volume can compass them, has at least this advantage, that there is no difficulty in getting behind it, where its beginnings may be easily traced. Nor are those beginnings sufficiently complex to be- wilder the historian in the least. Unless we reckon as " transactions in real estate " the squatting of the negro Point au Sable, on the north bank of the river, in 1796, or the jumping of his claim by the Frenchman, Le Mai, a year or two later, the first land trade in Cook County was that by which John Kinzie bought out the latter land- lord, some time previous, to the founding of Fort Dearborn, in 1804; 13 194 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. but as the price paid was mainly in consideration of valuable " im- provements," viz. : a log cabin and the good will of the aboriginal inhabitants, it is scarcely quotable as a real estate transaction. Scarcely less misty in its details is the sale, which we will quote, since it is necessary to begin somewhere, of " a house and farm near the fort," for which, in 1817, J. H. Beaubien paid one Dean, an army contractor, $1,000. In view of the colossal magnitude of a thousand dollars, in those days, the sale must have been the source of great jubilee in the Dean family, and no little surprise and gossip in dis- interested circles. An Informal Appraisal. — The next transaction of which we have any record was not a transaction, but an appraisal. Maj. Long, of the army, after passing over (or rather through, for there was no get- ting over these bogs in 1823) the land (?) on both sides of the river, from the fort to the junction of the two branches of the stream, reported in writing that he " would not give sixpence an acre for the whole of it." Some Notable Canal Sales. — From the date of the first canal sales in 1830 to the spring of 1834, there was no abnormal excitement in the Chicago real estate market. We have been permitted to look over the book of Canal Sales preserved by one of the enterprising abstract firms of Chicago, and find that the prices paid for lots in the very heart of the city any time previous to 1834, was eminently reasonable. No one, for instance, would grumble at being compelled to pay the same price for lots 4 and 5, block 34, that William Bell paid the State in 1830. The lots were each 80 x 180 feet in size and fronted north on Lake and south on Randolph streets respectively, with each a side front on LaSalle ; and the price paid was $23 and $25 respect- ively. Bell made a good thing on his lots by selling them, three years afterwards, at $100 apiece to S. Blood, and he might have done still better by holding them eight months and selling them as Blood did to Pearsons & Owen, at $600 apiece, after " Up she goes" became the word ; or still better by waiting until 1871 and selling them at $120,000 apiece, the ruling price of then ; but the best time to have sold would have been in 1856 or '7, provided Mr. Bell had managed to save the proceeds (which he probably wouldn't) from the general smash which occurred in the latter year. Quite another Story. — The same record of ("anal Sales tells a preg- nant tale of the years which followed the bargains noted above. REAL ESTATE IN 1 835 -44. 1 95 Lots in the same vicinity — indeed farther away from the business- center of those and the twenty following years, sold at the sales of 1836, at from $6,000 to $12,000 per lot, and went off "like hot cakes!" Inasmuch, however, as the State Legislature, after the crash came on, granted a rebate of 33^/3 per cent to all buyers, and agreed to take for pay the terribly depreciated canal scrip of those days, the figures afford no index of the real price of the lands. Turning to later rec- ords, we find that such a lot as that at the south-east corner of Ran- dolph and Wells streets (Fifth avenue) was sold by E. H. Hadduck (who never made sacrifices on land) to C. E. Holmes, in March, 1844, for $300. It was 20 feet by 80 in size. Two months later we find Isaac Vanderpool deeding to Charles E. Peck a space 80x110 feet next east of where the " Staats Zeitung " building now stands, for a total consideration of $350. And in January of the same year, Tuthill King had bought of John Blatchford for $600 a lot 60x116 in the same block, fronting south on Washington street, and now easily worth $100,000. But our narration has already leaped over an important episode. The Inflation Period of 1835-6-7. — By 1835, ^ le Canal project had come to be pretty near a certainty, and the splendid future of the Northwest had become, in some faint degree, manifest to the perceptions of Eastern people. It was also perceived by some of them that Chicago, as the Lake Michigan terminus of the canal, had a great advantage of situation — held, perhaps, the key to the burst- ing granaries which, founded on the stilts of the imagination, or of a very liberal and hopeful calculation, dotted these boundless, virgin prairies. At all events, Chicago began to loom up as the City of Destiny — an appellation that was received by the many with the same shrug of the shoulder with which we now hear Duluth spoken of in that way. Those who came and saw, however, were conquered ; and many were convinced who did not come, but saw with the eye of faith; insomuch that, by 1836, Chicago lots were almost a staple article in the speculative markets of the Eastern cities. Of course, good lots and bad sold to strangers with equal readiness ; and it is humiliating to relate that there were sharpers in the land business in those days — a fact which, as is well known, has not been disco- vered in any other line of trade, nor in any other age of the world. During the year ending with the Fall of 1835, the population of the town (Chicago was not a city until 1837) had increased eight- 196 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. fold, viz., to 3,265 ; and the demand for land was so great that one firm of brokers and dealers (Taylor & Whitlock) who set' up an office that year, sold over half a million dollars of property during their first six months. At the same time, the government land office, which was removed to Chicago from Danville the same year, sold 370,043 acres, chiefly in Cook county, for $505,729. Real es- tate, in fact, was the principal commodity dealt in, as the country whose trade was to support Chicago had not yet been sufficiently developed to buy merchandise or sell produce to any great extent. The muddy reaches called streets, the wretched shanties dignified with the name of " hotel," swarmed with capitalists and speculators of every grade, from the unpretentious boor with six York shillings and as many title deeds in his pocket, up to the bloated aristocrat with four or five hundred dollars, and a knack of drawing on some- body at the East which the other had not yet acquired. We have given, in a previous chapter, a considerable insight into real estate operations of this buoyant period, for the reason that the history of the city consisted for a time so exclusively of them/that it could not be carried continuously forward without them. This his- tory we will riot repeat here ; but we shall refer, farther on, to the operations of Mr. John S. Wright, who has been quoted from, our purpose being to trace the subsequent history of the 'parcels pur- chased by him in 1834 and at subsequent dates. Price of River Lots in 1835. — During the years 1835-6, Chicago town lots became a great article of traffic in New York and other eastern cities. They were hawked by brokers ; and auction sales gotten up expressly for them were attended and participated in as eagerly as a drawing in a grand lottery, or a session of the Stock Board. A Chicago land dealer of the present day,* has in his pos- session a relic of this sort of business, which serves, doubtless, as a fair sample of hundreds. It is the auctioneer's own copy of a plat, from which were sold some twenty blocks of Chicago property lying along the North Branch. The prices brought were unquestionably low. Property having a water front, and a depth of two hundred feet or more, sold at only $13 per foot ; and lots a little back from the river, on Union aud Desplaines streets, brought only $4 per front foot. The sale took place in New York, the 8th of May, 1835. The sale was made by Messrs. Franklin & Jenkins, at the Merchants' Exchange, and appears to have been one of the many such that were * Mr. Edward C. Cleaver. WAS THERE INFLATION IN '37? I97 occurring thereabouts in those days. The maps are very well gotten up, and show with perfect fairness the location and situation of things in the new city of the swamps, including the sand bar, which had not been penetrated by the straight cut at the mouth of the river ; the old fort opposite the foot of Pine street, and the light-house, then some distance from the fort. North State street then figured as Wool- coot street, and South State street did not exist, being, with all the avenues to the east of it, included in the undivided reservation. The property sold at this sale is now occupied by railways, docks and factories, and would bring at from 20 to 50 times the prices then realized. Bat the buyer doubtless sold them out during the excite- ment of the next year for cent per cent, profit. Was There Really Any Inflation ? — It has been claimed that these prices, while doubtless astonishing, as compared with the cost of the land to the retailer, are not " inflated." That is, they would yield a fair rate of interest, above expenses, if the owners had held until to-day. The same will probably be found true of almost any of the lots bought and sold up to the panic of 1857 — certainly more than true concerning the whole area traded in up to that time, reckoned together and averaged. The total commercial value of property, real and personal, is sup- posed to have been under one million of dollars, at the time Chicago became a city, reckoning the assessed value at one-quarter, which was $236,842. If, as is generally assumed by persons conversant with Chicago history, only half this sum stands for real estate (the record being imperfect), and if it was assessed at a full quarter of its value, it would seem that the universal crash of 1837 found at Chi- cago no reproachful inflation ; for in every growing place the panic of that dreadful year is known to have cast real estate out of all demand for years afterward, making the difference seldom less, often vastly more, than half. This was not so in Chicago, though the con- trary assumption, seemingly out of sheer inadvertence, is habitually prevalent, even in Chicago. A Shaky Investment, Nevertheless. — Of course, however, measured by the standard of certain and immediate revenue, or of the improve- ments which at the demand of commerce had been placed upon the property, Chicago land had reached a fanciful price in 1837. Risk was a much greater element in the bargain then than it is now — hence prices should have been lower, rather than higher than realize- able revenue would indicate. How great was [that risk was most 198 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. disastrously proved during the fall of '37 and the few years fol- lowing. After the Crash. — The lowest point reached, according to assess- ments and corroborating data, was in 1840, when the real estate alone was assessed at $94,437, a figure only $23,984 less than the really half of that of 1837, viz. : $118,421. The city tax levy of the year 1840 was $4,722, nearly 5 per cent. The price, therefore, of the financial blast of 1837, which totally shut up the real estate markets of Eastern cities, gave back suburban lots at Philadelphia to buckwheat and oats, and ""nearly demolished the flourishing city of Cincinnati, cast down real estate in Chicago little over*- 25 per cent. This, of course, did not apply to all trades. Many, yet still excep- tional, parcels and lots had been long kept out of legitimate use by acquiring that purely imputed power of infatuating men, which does not depend even on a mistaken valuation, but Jepends on the notion each gambler has of what another gambler believes he can sell it for to a third ; even the latter not mistaking its real value, but calculat- ing, in turn, on a fourth, and so on. With this class, the little city was distressingly rife. When the crisis suddenly came, they were, of course, instantly exploded ; their large possessions, consisting of nothing in the world but stock in each other's temerity, instantly disappeared and left them without means for board. It has been said that the " enterprising citizens of Chicago would have depopu- lated the town at that day but they were too poor to afford the means of escape into other places. But this is true rather of the gambling class only, whose utter overthrow relieved the place of a baleful influence that had done much to corrupt legitimate industry, to dom- inate and pervert administration and to impede local public improve- ments. Recovery from the Collapse. — By 1842 the prosperity of Chicago had been so well restored, and population and traffic were increasing so rapidly that real estate could not fail to respond to these genial influences. We find by reference to the records of the time that in 1842 the real property inside the city limits (then including 10^ square miles) had increased to $108,757 ; and by 1845, it had mounted up to $2,273,171 — a surprising leap, fully equaled by that of the next three years, during which $2,725,095 was gained, making the total valuation of real property $4,998,266 — still on the scale of one-fourth the selling value, but not still confined to the same area, — the city having been again enlarged so as to take in the country ROUGH ON UNCLE SAM. 199 bounded by Fullerton avenue, Sedgwick street, North avenue, Western avenue and Twenty-second street. There were but few notable episodes in the Chicago real estate market during the period intervening between the two panics. The steady growth already indicated placed values where they belonged, so far as business property near the river was concerned, and busi- ness being then much more concentrated than now the few streets, like South Water and Lake, /which, custom demanded every trades- man to occupy if he would be "anybody," were brought by 1856 to prices which would scarcely afford a margin for profit if computed, with interest and taxes offset against rentals. But this circumstance, if true, only proves that too flush times bring their own punishment ; and the fact that ninety-nine out of every hundred Chicago lots were really cheap even at the prices of 1857, proves that you can't depend upon even so inflexible a financial rule as the above to enforce itself in Chicago, the grand exception to all rules. Government Lands Sold. — Uncle Sam was a large dealer in land in Chicago and its vicinity during the dozen years -preceding 1848. The record of public lands sold here from January 1835 to J une 2 9» 1847 (including the Cook County lands sold at Danville previous to May, 1835, at which time the government land office was removed to Chicago), included 2,272,565 acres and a fraction, which were dis- posed of in nearly every case at the traditional dollar and a quarter per acre, the aggregate sum received for the lands being $2,903,016.87. During the same period the United States donated some 450,000 acres to schools and canals within the district, so that in reality over 2,700,000 acres were given for the $2,900,000 received. Imagine Uncle Sam's feelings when, twenty-five years afterwards, he was asked over $2,200,000 by Chicago parties for a patch of ground big enough to build a post-office upon ! Three-fourths of all he had re- alized from all those millions of acres ! It must have caused the old gentleman to mentally paraphrase a well-known proverb and remark that people are ungrateful to republics. Twenty Years Ago. — Taking a glance at the situation of the Chi- cago real estate market twenty years ago, we find perfectly normal and healthy prices prevailing, though it is evident that few capitalists had then fairly perceived the future which was in store for Chicago. With the exception of Lake and South Water streets, there was no high-priced business land in the city. On those thoroughfares the heavy mercantile traffic of the town was so exclusively located as to 200 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. make rents exorbitant and prices of land correspondingly high. Chicago had not yet found out that she was different from other cities — that she could not have a Broadway worth $10,000 a foot, while equally accessible intersecting and parallel streets went begging at hardly more than a single thousand ; or a Fifth Avenue upon which Fashion would so imperatively command her votaries to live, that their rivalry would force prices along that avenue up to $30 per square foot for miles along. Aggravating Re??iiniscences. — Just so all the merchants aspiring to a first-class trade, whether wholesale or retail, were forced to find places on Lake Street, at no matter what prices. As a consequence, values on Lake and for a short distance on Clark streets were about as high twenty years ago as they are now, viz., $1000 per front foot. At the same time, prices on State and Washington streets, where $2000 per front foot would now be refused by many landowners, was in the market at $150, with few buyers. $100 per foot opposite the Tremont House. — On Dearborn street, opposite Rice's Theatre (between Randolph and Lake), we note one sale at about this date at $100 per front foot, one-fifth cash. And even in the "inflated" days of 1856, Col. Geo. R. Clarke, who had bought 25x195 feet on Madison street, between LaSalle and Wells (now worth $1800 per front foot), for $100 per foot, all on time, got so sick of his bargain that he hired the seller to take the property back. Prairie Avenue. — In 1852 or '3, the same gentlemen bought ioo- feet at the corner of Prairie avenue and Eighteenth street, at $10 per front foot. This is the ground now occupied by Mr. Geo. M. Pull- man's $200,000 house, and the highest priced residence property in the city, viz., $500 per front foot. At the same time, property along Michigan avenue, from Sixteenth to Twenty-second streets, had risen to $22.50 per foot, for an average; though in 1850 any of it could have been bought for $10. Twenty years ago, no property west of the river would command more than $100 per front foot, and the choicest lots in the vicinity of Union Park could be bought for $15 per foot. The Real Estate Guild in '53. — It could not reasonably be claimed, twenty years ago, that Chicago was in danger of being ruined through the multiplicity of her real estate dealers, though even then there were doubtless members of the fraternity who declared that the business was " crowded — done to death." The' guild numbered THE PANIC OF 57. 201 barely half a dozen firms and single operators, viz. : J. H. Rees (now Rees & Pierce), S. H. Kerfoot, Ogden & Jones, with whom A. J. Galloway (now A. J. Galloway & Son), was afterwards associated; B. F. Russell, Clark & Pickering, and Thomas Freeman, with whom, during 1853, Col. George R. Clarke (now of Clarke, Layton & Co.) became associated. The Panic of 1857. — In 1856 the area of the city had been in- creased to eighteen square rhiles by the extension of the southern boundary to Thirty-fifth street; and land values had risen until the city assessment of real estate had become $25, 892,308, or about $8,250 per acre for the whole eighteen miles. The country had again, as in 1837, got in possession of a plethora of currency (poor stuff it was too) and another mania for speculation and reckless expenditure ensued. Chicago had the mania along with the rest, and " went in " with a zest, for she had already learned her habit of doing nothing by halves. Real estate of course caught the infection, and was sold largely on time to Eastern investors, running it up extravagantly by their own intense competition, for speculation. For the first time in any considerable item, Chicago became a cred- itor, and the East a debtor. But the recondite causes of the general panic of 1857 were behind the Eastern speculator, and soon disa- bling him for meeting his back payments on Chicago property, it fell in very large quantities back into the hands of its local, vendors without loss to them ; often passing through half a dozen defaults, or more, before getting back to them. On the other hand, even at that early day, much money had been borrowed in the East and cau- tiously secured on Chicago lots, which brought little more than the demnification of the creditor, if as much. But this is apart from the general fall of real estate, which was very great, but less disas- trous to those who could afford to hold it for the immense and per- manent rise of a few years later. The Effect of the General Crash on Chicago real estate, and especially on those who were speculating on small capital, is thus told by Mr. Colbert :* ' The effects on the real estate market were fearful, and the building business suffered correspondingly. The depreciation of prices in corner lots was great in the winter of 1857, but it was much greater in 1858 and 1859, as payments matured which could not be met. A large proportion of the real estate in the city had been bought on canal time — the same terms as those on which Dr. Egan used to pre- * " Chicago and the Great Conflagration," p. 95, 96. 202 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. scribe his pills in moments of abstractedness — one-quarter down, and the balance in one, two, and three years. They had depended upon a continual advance in quoted values to meet those payments, and found that they could not even sell at a ruinous sacrifice. Great number of workers left the city for want of employment,, and those who remained were obliged to go into narrowed quarters to reduce expenses. This caused a great many residences and stores to be vacated, and brought about a reduction in rents on those still occupied, which impoverished even those who were able to hold on to their property. Many hundreds of lots and houses were abandoned by those who had made only partial payments, and the holders of mortgages needed no snap-judgment to enable them to take possession. "A stop was at once put to the erection of buildings. Several blocks were left unfinished for years, and some commenced were never finished by the original owners." Can Such a Result Come Again! — Everybody understands that real estate in all cities and sections is subject to fluctuations, accord- ing to influences both local and general. At the same time it is evident to all who are acquainted with the Chicago of to-day that her land will never have, at least within the present century, another such general avalanche as those of 1837 and 1857. To those who are convinced only by experiment, the two crucial tests of the last two years ought to be satisfactory on this point. We allude to the fire which smote the city in 1871, and the financial panic of Septem- ber and October, 1873, the former of which lowered the average ask- ing price of vacant lands, but a mere shade, if at all, while the latter,, in spite of the desperate monetary stringency which it engenders . leaves the holders of Chicago property firm as a rock, and ready to sacrifice anything else rather than land. But it may be urged, the panic of 1873 was not equal to that of 1857. So it was not. Neither will any panic be which may come here- after. The West has had its wild-cat bank period, as a child has the measles, and will not have it again. Chicago stood the panic of 1873 better than any other great city in the nation — better than New York, better than Boston, infinitely better than Cincinnati and St. Louis. Why? It was not merely because we had abundant crops of grain behind us. It was because Chicago commerce is more legitimate in itself, and more legitimately carried on than that of New York, and more vigorous and active than that of the other cities named. It was because our commercial character is more stable than ever before, as well as because our trade is nourished by a broader, more populous and wealthier empire. It was because our industries had become so diversified that each supports the other, while all have made themselves indispensable to a vast popu- DURING THE WAR. 203 lation whose demands for merchandise and manufactures are increas- ing faster than their own numbers, who can be supplied from Chicago six times more rapidly than from any other point, East or West, and whose situation, economically considered, is panic proof. Real Estate DiLring the War. — The effects of the panic of 1857 lasted several years. In fact, the depression in real estate values incident to the general financial crash had not been recovered from when a new cause intervened to keep down prices — that is, the war of the Rebellion. So thoroughly did this influence work that the close of the war, though it found Chicago vastly more populous and prosperous than ever before, did not find land values any higher, unless in rare local cases, than they were eight years before. On Washington street there was some improvement to note, in view of the southward movement of business which had already set in. And the reader will be satisfied that there was plenty of room for im- provement when he understands that, a dozen years ago any land on Washington street could have been bought for $200 per front foot. In 1865 the destiny of LaSalle street as the seat of a great financial and exchange business had been established, and the Chamber of Commerce was already nearly completed ; and yet during nearly the whole of that year, lots on LaSalle street, just south of the Chamber, went begging at $300 per front foot, the present capitalized rentals of which are not less than $3,000 per front foot. Even on State street, in 1866, Mr. Potter Palmer bought for less than $1.50 per square foot, ground (included in the present site of the Palmer Hotel) which would now be appraised at $12 to $14 per square foot. After the War. — During the three years following the close of the war there was a rapid appreciation in value in almost all localities — the business streets most affected being Washington, Madison, State and the avenues east of State. In 1868 the lot at the southwest corner of State and Washington streets was sold to the First National bank at a price higher than had ever been known in Chicago hitherto, viz. : $25 per square foot; but the price was no index to that of neighbor- ing property, the circumstances being exceptional. There was also a special activity in eligible residence property on the avenues and at Cottage Grove, and the vicinity of Union and Lincoln Park witnessed a great advance during 1867, '8 and '9. Then came the park excitements out of town, which attracted nearly all the speculation during 1869 and '70, and the history of which will be given in a subsequent chapter. 204 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The Great Confiag7-ation and its Consequences. — Then came the fire, which had two principal effects on real estate. The first and most obvious was to depreciate such burned-over property as had to be sold, and to make slow the sale of that for which, as often oc- curred, the owners insisted upon getting the ante-fire prices. Not only, however, was this effect far less than would have been sup- posed, but it was in a great degree counteracted by the increased values which the plan of rebuilding has given to certain localities, like Fifth avenue, Franklin street, Madison street, etc. The other effect referred to was due to the fire ordinance which followed the fire, establishing more stringent regulations than for- merly on the subject of building and extending greatly the limits within which those regulations are enforced. The section wherein it is unlawful to build any frame structure other than alow, open shed, is now bounded by the Lake, Thirty-ninth 'street, State street, Twenty-sixth street, the Fort Wayne R. R. track, Twenty-second street, Jefferson street, the C, B. & Q. R. R. track, Throop street, Twelfth street, Ashland avenue, Van Buren street, Western avenue, West Lake street, Ashland avenue, Indiana street, Carpenter street, Chicago avenue, North Wells street, Lincoln avenue, and Fullerton avenue ■ — the reader understanding that each of these boundaries is followed until the other is reached, and the restrictions of the ordi- nance apply for a distance 125 feet outward from the line specified. Effect of the Fire Ordinance. — The passage of this ordinance drove beyond the limits named all persons who desired to build homes for themselves and who had not the means to put up a structure of brick or other fire proof material. Hence a brisk demand for build- ing lots just outside of the fire limits, and a chronic dullness in the market for moderately choice lots within those limits. We do not know any cases where there was an actual decline in current values on account of this ordinance ; but it has made the market for much semi-genteel property very slow ever since its passage — the owners maintaining, however, with obvious logic, that the ultimate effect will be a permanent enhancement of values. Increase of Suburban Business. — The same circumstance has acted decidedly in favor of suburban localities, to which professional men, clerks and others of moderate income but whose tastes rise above rows of cheap cottages, have been attracted in great numbers. In- deed, the feature of the Chicago market for the past two years has been the suburban trade, in which many fortunes have been made, SEVENTY THOUSAND REALTIES SOLD IN FIVE YEARS. 205 and in which, also many are now locked up — though not so closely as to cause the owners much apprehension. Aggregate Sales for Five Years. — The " Real Estate Journal " prints the following summary of the values indicated in warranty deeds to Cook County lands, left for record at the Recorder's office during the periods named : NO. SALES. CONSIDERATION. 186S, (20 weeks) L 5.307 .... $29,361,250 1869, (full year). ': '. 13,994 .... 50.487,731 1870, (full year) 11,446 -... 47,078,561 1871, (9months) 9,688 .... 40,099,545 Oct. 9th, 1871. to Oct. 9th, 1S72 12,791 .... 62,738,613 Oct. 9th, 1872, to Oct. 9th, 1873 15,978 .... 82,943,359 Grand total 69,204 ....$312,709,079 It will be seen that the figures of the last twelve months but one are somewhat larger than those for the calendar year 1872, given at the opening of this chapter. The discrepancy results not merely from the different periods considered, but also from the larger area reck- oned in " The Journal's " calculation. LAND TITLES IN CHICAGO. ' ' Short, Sharp and Decisive " — Advantages of the Western Mode of Dividing Terri- tory — The Abstract Business — History of the Three Principal Firms — What Private Enterprise Did and what Public Enterprise Did Not — A Desperate Rescue — After the Fire — Insignificant Upshot of Three Months' Legislation, Six Months' Arbitration and 3,000 Newspaper Communications — How Titles are Now Investigated — Cost of Abstracts, etc. TITLES to land in Chicago are short, simple, and, for the most part, strong. It is easy to see that a city where the original passages of the title to its lands from the government to individuals is a fact within the memory of men by no means old, possesses de- cided advantages in the facility with which her titles maybe verified. Simple Subdivision. — To this advantage Chicago adds the vastly more valuable one of a system of subdivision, viz., by square town- ships, sections, quarters, forties and tens, which none of the old cities possess. This advantage enables any person to identify, by half a dozen words of description, any one parcel out of ten thousand. It obviates a vast amount of research and danger of mistakes, and is of incalculable benefit in the conveyancing of property. Few Conveyances. — The shorter a title is, the simpler, of course ; and the simpler, the surer, as a general rule ; and although in a city where real estate has been so great an article of traffic as in Chicago, the titles cannot be expected to be as short — that is, the past con- veyances as few — as in a rural neighborhood of the same age, yet it will be found in tracing up the chain of title to the 104,000 odd lots in the city proper, that the number of conveyances by warranty will not average more than half a dozen to each lot ; while in the case of parcels outside of the city, the conveyances are still fewer — not more than four on the average. There are a good many quarter sections outside the city, and some lots in the very heart of the city, still owned by the men to whom they were deeded by the government. This being the case, a majority of buyers require to have the titles EARLY ABSTRACTING. 207 to the lands in question examined clear back to the beginning, in- stead of assuming it to be good in some owner less remote than Uncle Sam, as buyers are compelled to do in older cities and those less simply subdivided. The "Original Town." — The township in which the "original town " of Chicago is located is known according to the western land nomenclature as fractional township 39, north, range 14, east, the sections numbered 1, 2, 3, it, 12, 13, 14, 15, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 35 and 36 being wholly or chiefly cut off by the lake — a portion of country which Chicago speculators have never subdivided, whatever Scandal may allege to the contrary. Of remaining sections, ail the odd numbered ones were given at an early day by the government of the United States to the State of Illinois for the purpose of build- ing a canal ; so that the titles to lands in these sections usually com- mence with the deed from the State, represented by the Canal Com- missioners, to the purchaser therefrom. The first conveyance of tracts in the even numbered sections (except the school section) is the patent of the United States government, dated for the most part prior to 1835. Beginnings of the Abstract Business. — Titles to lands in Chicago did not become sufficiently intricate, or the volume of business suffi- ciently large, to warrant anybody in setting up an abstract business prior to 1849. At that time, Mr. J. H. Rees, one of the pioneers in the real estate business, and still actively engaged in it, commenced the preparation of a set of books, assisted by Mr. Edward A. Rucker, a very painstaking expert at the trade. The latter stepped out of the firm, however, in 1850, and a year later Mr. Rees took in as his abstract clerk, Mr. S.'B. Chase, now well known as the leading repre- sentative of this important business in Chicago. Mr. Chase was able to keep up all the abstract books, even on a plan afterwards found too elaborate for practice, and to do some general land-office work besides. Chase Brothers. — In the spring of 1852, Chase was taken in as Rees's partner, the firm becoming Rees & Chase. A year or two later Mr. H. G. Chase was taken into the concern; and in 1859, Mr. Rees sold out, leaving the firm Chase Brothers. At the time of the fire this was still the leading abstract firm in town, employing a force of twenty-five men, and having accumulated a collection of 300 volumes of indexes, 230,000 pages of letterpress copies of abstracts — in all, some three tons of manuscripts. The fire came, and destroyed a 208 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. portion of these books, but fortunately the most valuable part was saved, and is now in daily use, supplementing other valuable parts saved from the flames by the other conveyancers mentioned below. Shortall 6° Hoard. — The firm of Shortall & Hoard, who, with Jones & Sellers, pooled their capital with Chase Brothers just after the fire, are the successors of several old firms, and were the possess- ors of a very valuable set of books. The set was started by J. Mason Parker, Esq., in 1850, and sold out several times — Messrs. T. B. Bryan & John Borden being immediate successors of Parker. They, in turn, sold out to Messrs. Greenebaum & Guthman (Henry Greene- baum, the well-known banker), about 1855, and they to John G. Shortall, in 1858. By and by Shortall took in Mr. Hoard, who had formerly been Recorder of Deeds for the county, and the firm was known as Shortall & Hoard when the fire came and burnt- up all the records of which the abstract books were transcripts. A Desperate Rescue. — The Court House, where the records were kept, was across the way from the abstractors', and Shortall saw that his time had now come for making himself useful to posterity, and at the same time earning a bigger night's wages than was probably ever scored before by any person engaged in an honest pursuit. The im- portance of the acts of Shortall and his colleagues on this fatal night is exemplified in Voltaire's epigram on D'Alembert : " Humanity lost its title-deeds, and he recovered them." Had private enterprise been no more enterprising than public enterprise was, then the ab- stract books would have gone with the records which they had, as it were, photographed ; and then the title-deeds, not of humanity ex- actly, but of Cook County, would have dissolved away in chaos, or in chancery, which is about the same thing. Mr. Shortall arrived at the place where his precious books were stored at midnight on the night of the 9th of October. Observation had already told him that the safeguards which had been thrown around his property were not, as had been supposed, sufficient. The only safety lay in removing the books beyond the district likely to be burned over. What to do for a means of conveyance ? For Shortall, though versed in all manner of legal conveyances, was not equal to this emergency without help from a conveyancer of a more literal or physical type. But the carters were the greatest men in town that night, and in the vicinity of Larmon block none could be got, for love or money, to move those books. The only other resort was in the rear pocket of Shortall's trowsers. He drew it forth — a THE ABSTRACT BUSINESS CONSOLIDATED. 2O0 revolver! and requested the nearest carter to come alongside and anchor while his craft could be rilled with books from upstairs. By keeping this instrument carefully trained upon the commander of the unknown craft, Shortall was able to hold him there while the boys of the office brought down the most of the books, and while the flames roared and the walls toppled around them. A friend came to the rescue after a while, with a wagon more commodious and a driver more trustworthy than the on£ whom Shortall had impressed into his service. The latter was, therefore, honourably discharged and reason- ably paid. The friend's wagon was driven off in the direction of safety, and the books were saved. A great many loose crannies in our land titles were thereby made snug and tight, and Shortall's for- tune was made. The exertions by which the other sets of abstract books were saved were scarcely less brave and praiseworthy. Jones & Sellers. — The books of Messrs. Jones & Sellers, which were also contributed to the joint library of archives from which the most of our land titles are now verified, were started at a later period than were either of the two sets referred to above. The founder of them appears to have been one Brown, who sold out to Mr. Fernando Jones, a wealthy and influential citizen, who has long dealt in real estate, but who has a soul above grubbing among musty records and plodding over dry and tedious indexes for the benefit of John Doe's title. Mr. Jones, therefore, soon (about 1866) associated with him Mr. Sellers, who became the working partner, and through whose assistance a set of books of original entry, indexes to tax sales and probated estates, and a larger amount of letterpress copies of abstracts were made out. These books, like those of the other firms named, were rescued by dint of great exertions from the consuming element, hardly any portion being lost in any case, except those least valuable, viz., copies of abstracts. Co?isolidation. — The fire over, and every scrap of the public records gone up in the fiery whirlwind, the abstract men were not long in per- ceiving that they held the key to the land title situation. It was found that by combining their books a record could be made up which would afford not only a complete chain of title to every tract in Cook County, but would also furnish very full evidence relative to the effect of all judgments — in fact a thorough inquest could be made by means of these books into all the strong and weak points of possession, claim, or conveyance. The three firms therefore lost no time in forming an alliance, and in making themselves ready to serve the public. 14 2IO CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. It was found, on invoicing the property contributed to the pool by the several members, that Chase Brothers could furnish a valuable set of tract indexes, a set of judgment dockets and indexes, a valua- ble set of map copies, and some 30,000 pages of press-copied abstracts. Shortall & Hoard brought also judgment dockets and tract indexes, with different particulars from those of Chase Brothers, to which they were a supplement; also indexes of tax sales, and 75,000 to 80,000 pages of abstracts. Jones & Sellers had books of "original entry, 75, 000 pages of abstracts and indexes to sales ol school lands, administered estates, etc. Legislation. — The Legislature, however, assembling almost imme- diately after the fire, and continuing in session, with brief intervals, until the following summer, was disposed to enact a great deal of law for the benefit, or the supposed benefit, of Chicago land titles. All sorts of propositions were made, the most of them very absurd, and some of them approximately practical. Hundreds of columns of discussion were printed on the subject in the daily press, not so much from the editors as from those well-known and unqestionably sapient writers, "Tax Payer," " Justitia," and "Pro Bono Publico." The Legislature wisely refrained from enacting any sweeping law, such as was at first thought to be necessary; and it likewise adopted, as the basis of its action, the popular idea that the solution of the diffi- culty lay somewhere in the abstract books. To prevent private extortion, and to place the county in possession of some sort of an apology for its missing archives, it was proposed that the county should become the possessor of the abstract books ; and a law authorizing the county to purchase the books was finally passed. It was also enacted that an abstract of title made by a reputable firm for a party in interest in any particular conveyance should be received in court as evidence of title. This is about all that ever came of all the talk, and all the " Reams of paper, floods of ink," that were wasted in the gestation of a law that was to be the only panacea of all the title troubles. The result has proved that the business community has righted the matter by means of its own recu- perative instincts, regulated only by the unwritten law of commercial probity. A Hiatus in Business. — The law authorizing the purchase of the books by the county also prohibited the owners of the same from FACTS ABOUT ABSTRACTS. 211 issuing any certificates of examination from May ist to December Tst, 1872 — a prohibition which might be very easily evaded, and was, to a considerable extent, by the abstract men giving opinions on titles, as lawyers, which we may add, were charged roundly for, and the business therefore kept light. Then ensued a long period of dickering and bargaining between the county authorities and the owners of the coveted books. The latter would have sold out their whole stock in trade for $750,000,, but this price the county authorities deemed exhorbitant, and a great many alternative offers were made on either hand. The Judges of the Superior and Circuit Courts of the county were asked to investi- gate the matter, and they reported at the end of August that all the offers thus far made by the county (for certain parts, not the whole, of the books) were unwise ; also that the county had better buy the complete set if it should buy any. The county concluded not to buy any, the price asked being deemed exhorbitant. The result is, the public is voluntarily paying out more than two thirds as much/^r year to this single concern for abstracts as the outside price asked by the owners for their entire set of books. The Books Leased. — On the ist of December the abstract men were allowed to go on with their business, which they did by leasing the books for a term of years to Messrs. Hardy, Simmons & Co.. This firm commenced business at once, with a force of over seventy men, and so great was the demand for examinations of title that within a month they had accumulated seven hundred orders more than they could fill at once. Facts About Abstracts. — The following interesting facts relative tc- their business were published in " The Times " of sometime last January : " This order is numbered and filed ; the applicant makes his exit, and the order goes on its way through the mill. " The Times " will not undertake to guaranty that the order of John Doe, a stranger to the conveyancing fraternity, will go through just as rapidly as the order for a certificate upon which Potter Palmer is. going to get a $100,000 loan or convey that amount of property, thereby stopping $50 a day interest. At all events, it goes through some time — and this is what it goes through : " First, it is brought in contact with Chase Brothers' valuable old Tract Index — a sort of ledger, in 200 or more volumes — whereby the corner of each tract of land is traced through all its vicissitudes of mortgage, quit claim, warranty, etc., and a. " chain of title " made out. It is then taken around into another room, where, safe in a vault, repose another precious collection of volumes — 46 in number — called 212 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. books of original entry, and another series, comprising 200,000 pages of letter-press copies of abstracts, made out by the firm of Shortall & Hoard previous to the fire. The incipient " abstract " is enriched by reference to each of their collections, after which the clerk having it in charge consults an index of irregular conveyances (meaning quit-claims of right or interest in property which is not located in the instrument, and which is only distinguished in the index by the names of the grantors and grantees). He next consults a set of books in which chattel mortgages are recorded, since it is quite possible that a house or household may have been mortgaged away by some party other than the owner of the land. After this, there may be need to consult another enormous set of bulky volumes, in which are recorded all the judgments of the Chicago courts wherein real estate is concerned. The extent of the record may be inferred from the fact that, on the Friday noon preceding the fire, the Circuit Court of Cook County had passed 39,396 such judg- ments ; the Superior Court 36,376; the United States Circuit Court about 10,000, and the obsolete Court of Common Pleas 21,343 — all of which are transcribed with their most essential details in these books. When all this is done, the first draft of the abstract is carefully copied and handed to Mr. Simmons, of the firm, for his examination. The signature and seal of the firm are then affixed, and the certificate of examination is ready for delivery. " This document is of precisely the same nature, and quite as comprehensive as those given before the fire. The price charged is rather higher than then ruled, and the unsophisticated grantor will probably grumble at the amount, and wonder where those abstract sharks will go to when they die. The " party of the second part," however, takes a different view of the subject. The " abstract shark " will remind you, for instance, that in the first place, the property which he has placed at your disposal for this occasion is worth at least three-quarters of a million dollars, the annual interest upon which is at least $75,000, as times go ; that, in the next place, his help costs him at least $125,000 a year, and that, at this rate, the annual expenses of this firm are just equal to what he will tell you were the receipts of 1872, viz.: $200,000.. Furthermore he will ask you if you read 'The Sunday Times?' You reply 'yes,' and he rejoins, 'Then you have noticed that the : total sales of real estate in 1872 were $61,000,000 — absolute sales, mind you. Now . add to that an equal amount for mortgages made in obtaining loans, and which require examinations of title, equally with warranty deeds : total $122,000,000. What percentage of that amount do our charges amount to? Less than one-sixth ■ of one per cent. You can't get titles examined in any other city, and a certificate furnished which makes the property marketable, for three times that sum.' And then the abstract man proceeds to compare his meagre pittance with the commission charged by architects for telling a landlord whether or not his building will stand, just as he (the abstract man) tells the said landlord whether or not his title will stand ; or with the real estate broker's charge of 2 to 5 per cent, for negotiating a sale, and the chances are that the grumbler will leave that abstract man with a sigh of pity for his severe and unrequited toil." Prices, etc. — The force employed in the office has since been increased to 115, subject to slight reduction in dull times. The number of orders for examinations filed between Dec. 1st, 1872, and COST OF ABSTRACTS. 213 Oct. 2 1 st, 1873, was 8,408. The price charged for abstracts varies greatly according to the length of the title and the nature of the examination. For what is called a full abstract, going back to the patent from the State or National government, from $30 to $250 will be charged ; for a mere continuance, the minimum charge is $12; and the average of all the charges (from one-fourth to one-third being for full abstracts) is found by examination of the books for the last quarter to have been $42.33. The most expensive abstract ever ordered from this establishment was that made out not long ago for the Riverside Improvement Company, for which $3,125 was paid. There are two or three other abstracting firms in Chicago, who are able to command a considerable patronage for examinations not reaching back past the date of the fire. As already intimated, the evidence of title furnished by the means above recited are generally accepted without question both by resi- dents and non-residents. Upon them millions of capital have been loaned, and millions paid down as purchase money. There is no question but that the county ought to possess the only archives which show the ownership of its lands, and to furnish abstracts therefrom at a mere trifle above the actual cost. Nevertheless, the fact that these archives are still private property has not yet interfered, and doss not now threaten to interfere with the free and convenient con- veyance of land. EPISODES OF TRADE. Golden Opportunities Improved and Neglected by a Young Speculator in the Early- Day — Humiliating History of the Most Aristocratic Tract in Chicago — Land Investments in Hard Times — A Speculation in 1852, when Eighteenth Street was a Mile and a Half Out of Town — The Wentworth Tract and its Neighbor to the East — Money that was Made in Them — A Transaction in Boulevard Property — Washington Heights, and the Brilliant Operations Thereabout — Thirty-fold in Seven Years — Twenty-four Thousand per cent. Profit — The Northwestern Car Shop Syndicate and its Operations. WE shall record in this -chapter a few of those many hundred operations in real estate whereby large profits have been made either very quickly, or upon very small investments, or in some cases where those profits have been forfeited through the lack of cash or courage on the part of the would-be buyer. The chapter might easily be extended so as to occupy this entire volume ; and, indeed, we have been obliged by pressing space to omit many "episodes" noted down as worthy of preservation. Enough are given, perhaps, to show how things have been working at almost every period of the history of the city. John S. Wright's Experience. — Mr. John S. Wright, one of the oldest inhabitants of Chicago, gives in his book on Chicago (pub- lished 1868) full accounts of his experience as an owner of real es- tate. Mr. Wright has been less successful in this respect than his brother Timothy (now one of our wealthiest men), having a little too much theory and too little practice in him ; nevertheless his operations are well worthy of notice. Mr. W. began here as early as 1834, while a mere boy, his personal credit and his known connections serving in lieu of legal responsibility to makes his notes acceptable. The fact is, at that time Chicago real estate was not so precious as to make its holders hesitate long over the quality of the property for which they exchanged it. In 1834, then, this boy bought lot 4, block 17, original town, 80 by TIMES HAVE CHANGED. 215 150 feet, for $3,500 — a good round price, as everybody said. Fifteen months later he sold it for $15,000 cash, which was an exceedingly good price for the times. The highest value to which the same prop- erty has since risen (it lies on South Water street, north front, between Dearborn and Clark streets) can scarcely have been more than $120,000. Quite different, however, is the career of another tract bought by Mr. Wright a day or two afterwards, viz., on the nth March, 1834. for the same sum — $3,500. It comprised 73 acres in the west half of section 4, original town, and 175^ acres on the South Branch. The 73-acre tract is worth to-day at least half a million dollars, and the tract on the South Branch (if we do not misjudge the location) but little less. The value of the South Water street lot has been brought down by the fire and the centrifugal force of business in Chicago, to less than $80,000, while the same and later events have brought the other property up to a much higher figure than that placed upon it in 1868 by Mr. Wright — $500,000. Four Thousand Dollars for $2,500,000 worth of Property. — Still more instructive is the next important venture of this operator — the purchase of 43.87 acres in section 22, lying between the lake and State street, in the vicinity of Eighteenth street, at $80 per acre. This investment was also doubtless laughed at as a visionary one ; but in five years the value of the tract had so increased that a mort- gage on it and certain other property named below was taken at the State bank as security for a note of $10,000 (notwithstanding the crash of '37). So demoralized was the real estate market during those years of general financial distress, however, that the inevitable mortgagee's sale realized only $4,000 for the whole property. In 1868, Mr. Wright estimated the value of the land at the then current prices at $1,750,000 ; and it cannot to-day be worth less than $2,500,- 000, while the improvements that have been placed upon a single square of it will reach at least half that sum. We thus see the extra- ordinary spectacle of a tract of ground now mortgageable, with its improvements, for (say) $8,000,000, selling under the auctioneer's hammer, a generation ago, for a paltry $4,000. Imagine John S. Wright, possessor of the fee simple of the domain which embraces the princely palaces and spacious grounds of Messrs. Daniel Thomp- son, Marshall Field, Edson and Elbridge Keith, Louis Wahl, Fer- nando Jones, C. M. Henderson, George Armour, "and 100 others," ' shinning " around from broker to broker to get a loan of a few 2l6 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. thousands, and vainly offering to convey the whole domain by the strongest of trust deeds as security for the loan, at no matter what rate ! Imagine the alacrity with which John S. Wright would be kicked out of any business office in which he had ventured to predict that this sandy tract would within his day be covered with residence palaces, any one of a score of which would be superior to any then known on this continent. Dirt Cheap. — In January, 1835, Mr. Wright bought the forty acres which now forms Butler, Wright & Webster's addition, on Franklin and Market streets, North Division, for $4,000. The land embraced in this tract would now bring, without improvements, $1,500,000. Another tract which was gobbled up by the State bank on that $ro,ooo note was an eighty in section 34, bought by Mr. Wright in 1835 for $800, and now worth on an average $100 per foot, of $16,000,- 000 for the whole tract. Real Estate in Tight Times. — A half dozen other operations of .Mr. Wright's, showing equally fascinating bargains (from to-day's point of view) are mentioned by this bold but unpractical operator, who adds pathos, as well as instruction, to the tale by recounting how all his possessions were swept away by the crash of 1837. The lesson to be learned from this experience is not, what the superficial reader will be most likely to derive, that real estate, even in a grow- ing city, is very hazardous, though very promising property to hold. The correct inference from this experience is that in the long run, real estate investments are the safest as well as most profitable ; and that, to ensure this, one has only to exercise ordinary forethought (which Mr. Wright usually did not) and not carry a large indebted- ness from year to year without rents to meet expenses, and without resources to stave off a foreclosure in case of a fin an cial pinch. The man who came to Chicago and bought at anytime between 1840 and 1853 would have a much better showing of advancing prices between those dates and the present than Mr. Wright makes above. Financial disasters like those of 1837 and 1857 have to be taken into the general account in all calculations as to investments; and no investment which promises good rates of interest or profit is sure against them. Most sure of all is real estate in a growing city, the inevitable metropolis of a growing country ; for whatever your land may be owing you in such a time, it will pay sooner or later. It cannot leave the country or go through bankruptcy, like a personal debtor, or dissolve into thin air like an unstable corporation. Though an "out of town" transaction. 217 it may be under a cloud for a few panicky years, you always know where to find it. It may be as absolutely unsalable as an odd shoe, and an old one at that, but it is sure to rally by and by, and to sell for a price that compounds handsomely on the sum originally invested. How to Handle Land with an Incumbrance. — This applies to land which is only slightly, or not at all, incumbered. If one must go in debt for a portion of the purchase money — that is, if he wishes to realize a large profit on a small investment — he should, for safety, no less than for. larger profits per annum, turn his property as rapidly as possible, and to that end he should either be an expert buyer and seller, and enter the center of real estate circles himself, or else act through brokers who have these advantages, and who will be able to prompt their principal on every goou opportunity to buy, sell or exchange. There are non-resident capitalists who have made hun- dreds of thousands of dollars each in Chicago during the past twelve months, with scarcely a single visit to the scene themselves ; and there are real estate brokers here who are able to say, after twenty years' business in this line, during which they have bought and sold $50,000,000 worth of property, that no customer who bought and sold on their judgment has ever netted a loss. And it should be borne in mind that this statement covers a period which includes two of those dreaded financial crashes — the panic of '57 and the cur- rency explosion and real estate depression of the early part of the war. The First Car Shop Speculation. — The movement in Section Ten of the Town of Cicero, which attracted a good deal of attention last summer and winter, and which had for its object the establishment of very extensive railroad shops in the quarter named, and a conse- quent appreciation of values in the vicinity, had its earliest Chicago counterpart or precedent in the summer of 1852. At that time the American Car Works (since purchased and now operated by the Illinois Central Railway Company) were established here by a company of Connecticut capitalists. Their location was " away out on the lake shore," fully a mile and a half from the settled portion of the city. By the early part of the next season blocks that had been bought at the Canal Trustee's sale at $100 to $200 per acre were bringing $2,500 to $4,500 per block of two to three acres (as then subdivided), or $5,000. to $7,500 per block as they stand now. The location speci- fied is no longer " a mile and a half from anywhere " — at all events, 2l8 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. it is sufficiently near to "somewhere " to render the land thereabouts very firm at twenty-five to thirty times the prices of twenty years ago. The land lies east of Wabash avenue and north of Twenty- sixth street. A Profitable Tract. — Nor did the chances for good bargains all cease with the flush times preceding 1857, and the subsidence of those good angels of the real estate speculator, the Canal Trustees and School Board. In the fall of 1865, Col. Geo. R. Clarke had in hand a tract of twenty acres lying between State Street and Indiana avenue, and south of Thirty-first street, which he managed to sell to some enthusiastic persons for $54,000. The buyers held the land but a few months before they were able to sell it out in blocks for $108,- 000. This was not quite eight years ago ; and though the price has not doubled up every " few months " since that time, it has much more than quintupled once during the period. So has the large Wentworth tract, which the beforementioned parcel adjoined, and which was disposed of by its colossal proprietor at colossal profits — enough to balance all that he makes (?) on his Chester pigs and Dominique fowls at Summit and his political campaigns in the city for years to come. Subdividing the Wentworth Tract. — A fifty-seven acre parcel of Mr. Wentworth's land, lying between State street and Wentworth avenue, Thirty-first and Twenty-sixth streets, was bought in 1866 by Messrs. George and Charles Walker, and Mr. Sheldon, of Springfield, for $100,000. It was regarded as an uncommonly good sale ; but the purchasers were able, after subdividing, and without any consid- erable expense, to sell out the whole within two years for $258,000. Let us follow the retailed parcels down four or five years and learn a lesson from their history. The lots brought $400 a piece on the average ; but those, say on Wentworth avenue, which brought this price, are not now worth more than $1,500 each, while the lots on State street, in the same subdivision, which then went for $550 each, now command $4,000. It was known as well then as it is now, that State street was the great retail thoroughfare of the South Division, while Wentworth avenue was a mere local street ; but average buyers can not make their purses comprehend what their tongues are ready to admit. A Boulevard Speculation. — One of the sudden developments of wealth incident to the location of the South Parks, and a case which shows how a man may have greatness thrust upon him, had for its A NEAT BOULEVARD SPECULATION. 21 9 subject an eighty acre tract lying between Forty-third and Forty- seventh streets, north and south, and between Cottage Grove and Egandale avenues, east and west, with the Drexel Boulevard running smack through it. This tract was owned in September, 1868, by the Murray estate of New York. At that time George R. Clarke made an arrangement with Charles Stinson,an Englishman of some means, to purchase the land at $80,000, the\ price asked by the Murrays ; Stinson furnishing the means, (and Clarke doing the work and allow- ing his partner eight per cent, interest — both sharing the profits over and above that, and other expenses. As it turned out, Stinson furnished no money at all, Chas. H. Walker having been admitted into the ring as capitalist. Some $25,000 more was spent to per- fect the title and make certain improvements ; and within four months from the time of purchase, Clarke had sold the east half for $27,000 more than the whole had cost. The balance is still owned by the same parties (the interests having been divided), except ten acres which Mr. Walker sold for $100,000 — a price since excelled 65 per cent, by the same block at retail under the hammer; and $15,000 is certainly the lowest at which any acre of the property could now be purchased. John Brougham's Twenty Acres. — Another case or two will be added to those already given illustrative of the hundreds of cases where property inside of, or quite near, the city limits, has been very quickly and very profitably sold out at retail. There was the twenty acres bought by T. S. Dobbins of John Brougham, the actor, six years ago last July, and bounded by Cottage Grove and Charles avenues, Forty-first and Forty-second streets. The price paid was $20,000, one fourth cash and the balance on time at six per cent. In five months all was sold out in half acre lots for $57,780, and the same land is now selling at $75 per front foot, or about $16,000 per acre. This was not a park speculation, but an investment founded on the inevitable growth of the city. A Cottage Grove Transactio?i. — From the year 1866 until the time of the fire there was a very rapid advance in values in the Cottage Grove district, situated east of Indiana avenue and south of Thirty- first street. To exemplify this we are permitted to cite an operation very much like many others in the neighborhood, viz., the purchase by Col. George R. Clarke from John L. Scripps of eight acres lying on Oak avenue (corresponding to Thirty-sixth street). The price paid was $21,000, cash. In five months from the date of purchase, 220 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Col. Clarke had sold out at prices ranging from $30 to $35 per front foot, and aggregating $58,720. "A fortunate turn," the reader sug- gests. Perhaps Clarke was of the opposite opinion the other day when he sold one of the original lots at $125 per foot — a price which yields fifty per cent, profit per annum for six years on his ori- ginal investment, with an average expense for taxes of two and one- half per cent. Equally successful were the operations of Mr. Chas. Cleaver a little farther south, in what is known as Cleaverville, of which he bought a large area in 1866 and 1867, at $625 per acre, and had dis- posed of nearly all of it previous to 187 1, at prices ranging from $60 to $100 per front foot. The Blue Island Land Compa?iy's Operatio7is. — The operations of the Blue Island Land and Building Company may be briefly summarized. This organization set out in 1868 with $35,000, cash, with which they purchased, at about $100 per acre, a large tract sit- uated fully twelve miles south of the Court House. This tract they named Washington Heights — a name that was subject to some sneers from those who first visited the tract to attend an auction sale advertised in the summer of 1868 — this being, of course, before the rather sagging, though well elevated plateau had been drained by means of sewers. What have the company now to show for their investment in this far-off country place ? Well, not much. Nothing except dividends, actual or practicable, amounting to $780,000, and one hundred acres of land readily marketable at $1,500 per acre: in other words, a clear profit of $895,000 on their original investment of $35,000. One land holder in this vicinity has made, as is estimated, little if any short of half a million dollars by the advance in prices of land in this vicinity. For this gentleman, about the time of the company's purchase, Col. Clarke bought thirty-seven acres, at less than $75 per acre ; and the owner has marketed eleven acres of the poorest of it at something over $r,ooo per acre. If he should hang on to the rest of it for two years longer, and the anticipations~of the most candid and experienced brokers who have made this property a specialty should be realized, he would be able to take $175,000 at that time for the remaining forty-six acres. Transactions of Bowen Brothers and Others. — The price paid by Bo wen Brothers, in 1864, for the one hundred and twenty feet after- wards occupied by their store, on Randolph street, between W^abash ADVANCES THAT COULD N T HELP OCCURRING. 221 and Michigan avenues, was $450 per front foot. Before the fire the value of the land had increased to $2,000 per foot, but is scarcely- more than $1,500 at present, owing to the increased room taken pos- session of by the heavy wholesale trade which has there its habitat. The rentals at the time of the fire paid nineteen per cent, gross on the land at $2,000. For eighty feet at the corner of Madison street and Michigan ave- nue, the same parties paid $250 per front foot in 1865 ; and, despite the same influence alluded to above, the ground is now easily worth $1,500 per front foot. It should be understood that these are by no means exceptional cases. They are in no wise different from hun- dreds of other ordinarily sagacious bargains made from day to day. Outside the business quarter, however, the record is always more brilliant. For land north of the Calumet that is now withheld from the market, but which will doubtless be marketed within two years (by the Calumet C. and D. Co.) at anywhere inside of $10,000 per acre, Col. Jas/H. Bowen paid, in 1868, $60 per acre; and all the land around, and including the watch-making village of Cornel], could have been bought, at any time down to 1868 or 1869, at $50 per acre. Senator Logan, and Others, at South Englewood. — In July, 187 1, Doctor C. V. Dyer induced Senator John A. Logan and Col. Bowen to buy a half-interest in a farm held by the doctor, at what is now South Englewood, on the Rock Island railroad. The price named in the contract was $500 per acre. While the buyer of another frac- tional interest was getting his money ready for the cash payment precedent to the deed, however, the fire came on and scared the buy- ers all out of their trade. Hence the farm had to be sacrificed to Sisson & Newman, three months later, at $650 per acre, these people in turn sacrificing it, some three months afterwards, at more than double the cost, after selling out a good many village lots. To make the " sacrifice " more complete, the partner who backed out of the purchase at $500 has since bought some of the same goods at $2,600 per acre ! Thirty-fold in Seven Years. — On the 20th of March, 1866, Mr. John K. Rowley purchased the north half of block 31, canal trus- tees' subdivision of section 33, a little distance cityward from the stock-yards — inside the city limits. He paid for it $3,845, and it is now salable for $100,000. The same is to be said of the south half of the same block, which was bought in July, 1868, for $15,000. 222 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Twenty-four Thousand Per Cent. Profit. — Perhaps the largest dis- proportion between paying and selling prices ever known in this part of the country is that noted in the summer of 1873, in the case of a tract in the town of Calumet, long owned by the late Walter L. Newberry, and descending to his heirs with the rest of his estate. The price paid for the ground was $1.25 per acre — the government price ; and it was not sold until it brought $300 — 240 times the cost price. Probably this case is nearly equaled by several others, in which the original takers-up of government lands at prices from $2.50 to $5.00 per acre, have received from speculators as high as $600 or $800 per acre. And perhaps Mr. William B. Ogden can beat it clearly with some of his land to the west of the city, which was, we believe, obtained from the government, and which is now on his hands, and worth from one to ten thousand dollars per acre. Mr. Ogden could not in 1865 see the beauty of buying at $80 an acre a certain 80-acre tract in section 3, town of Cicero. It was offered him at that price for a third party by Mr. Thomas D. Snyder, of Snyder & Lee, who knew that Mr. O. owned the ground on both sides of the tract in question. As the same tract has since been sold at $2,800 per acre, it must be inferred either that the great millionaire's financial forecast failed him for once in this case, or else that he had made all the money out of Chicago land that he cared to make. The Northwestern Car Shops. — Being in section 3, town of Cicero, which adjoins section 10, we may as well stop a moment to mention the very extensive operations which were carried on, chiefly in the latter section, during the summer of 1872 and for some time follow- ing, with reference to locating there all the central shops of the Northwestern railway corporation. The scheme was a vast one, since it embraced, as nearly all such schemes do nowadays, a com- bination among officers of the road and useful outside parties for speculating upon the results of such an important movement. A syndicate was formed, to share the burdens and profits of the spec- ulation in land, and a skillful manager, Mr. Joel D. Harvey, as- sisted by Mr. W. M. Derby, went to work to secure refusals on the lands thought to be necessary. This business was managed so well that contracts for nearly 1,000 acres were secured at less than $1,000 per acre, notwithstanding the land lies close under the walls of the city. The 240 acres required by the company were measured out to them, and the syndicate then came before the public as the West Chicago Land Company, with subdivided lands for sale to the rail- A LIVELY TRACT. 223 road company's employees and the public at large, at prices treble to sextuple those paid by the syndicate. The members of trie Land Company consist largely of Northwestern railway officials. The expenses at the outset were very large, and the income thus far has been small ; but there is no doubt (complete arrangements for meet- ing deferred payments on the lands being presupposed) that the div- idends will be large during and after next year. Speculation at Washington ff eights. — Under the head of the sev- eral suburbs will be found a great many memoranda of large and quick profits realized by operating in land within or near each of those suburbs. Prominent among such speculations are those which have been carried on in the vicinity of Washington Heights — a district which has been more speculated in during the past year than any other anywhere around the city. The transactions of which a single half interest of a half section in section 5, town 37, range 14, has been the subject, were thus recounted in "The Sunday Times " of one day last summer (1873) : " That piece of land is a good example of Washington Heights acre property, only perhaps a little more so than the most of such tracts. It has been sold eight times within the past four years by a single firm — Snyder & Lee, and at prices which have ranged steadily upward from $68 per acre to $1,375 P er acre. In January, 1868, George H. Beardslee sold this land, with other adjoin- ing, for $50 per acre. On Feb. 26 of the same year, Stevens sold to John F. Eberhardt at $68 per acre. On March 4 following, Eber- hardt turned over the half interest referred to, to Rankin & Braley at $100 per acre. On the 22d of February, i860, Rankin & Braley transferred it to O. A. Bogue and F. A. Weage at $150. On Oct. 22 following, Weage & Bogue sold it to John D. Piatt for $250. In August, 187 1, Piatt sold it to E. W. Eldridge at $400. A month afterward Eldridge sold out to Maria E. Hilliard at $450. Last March, Mrs. Hilliard sold to Isaac Crosby, of Massachusetts, at an even $1,000, and Crosby has now contracted to sell it at $1,375. (The holder of the other half interest, it may be added, has been offered $1,500 per acre for his interest, and small tracts, only equally eligible, have sold at $2,000.) These sales have all been for cash and deferred money payments, and all sales bona fide. The total of the purchase money negotiated by Snyder & Lee has been over $450,000, and their commissions foot up at $11,225. Pretty good wages for ' turning over ' the teeming soil of a farm away down in the town of Lake." VALUES OF BUSINESS LAND. / Prices which Have Been Paid in London and New York — The Maximum in Chi- cago Does Not Approach Them — Highest Prices yet Paid for Chicago Ground — Cheapness of all Grades of Business Property — Probabilities Concerning Future Prices, etc. THE most valuable ground not built upon in the city of London, according to an estimate in " The Times " of May 4, 1873, is worth ^1,000,000 (or $5,000,000) per acre. This is equivalent to $1.35 per square foot; and it is obvious from the context that the estimate was for the private lots alone, and exclusive of streets and alleys. It is further stated that the current rental of land in Victoria street is £1 per square foot per aunum, which gives about ^25 per square foot as the capitalized value of the land. This holds through- out the street, which we infer, nevertheless, is not the most high priced street in the city; at least we may infer as much from the statement quoted above. There are no data at hand concerning the values which have been placed upon exceptionally desirable corner lots. It must be something enormous ; and we have the general statement on the same authority (" The Times") that the value of land is usually to that of the improvements upon it as three to one. Prices in New York. — Concerning selling values of the highest priced ground in New York, we have more exact figures. The best corner lots on certain streets south of City Hall have brought con- siderably over $100 per square foot, notwithstanding the expansive tendency of business in that metropolis. The lot on which the Drexel building stands, corner of Wall and Broad streets, was only to be had at a cost of $106 per square foot for the whole 8,927 feet — nearly four lots ; and the price paid by the Western Union Tele- graph Company for the lots upon which its new building stands was still higher — 7,500 square feet costing at the rate of $1 13 per square foot. Prices in Chicago. — The highest price realized iii any transfer ot MAXIMUM PRICES. 225 Chicago land recently recorded was $25 per square foot. This price was paid for an irregular lot enclosing the southwest corner of Clark and Madison streets, and having two eligible fronts, with a total area of 4,400 square feet. But this is not the highest price ever paid for land in Chicago. The lot on which Mr. W. K. Nixon's fine build- ing, at the corner of LaSalle and Monroe streets, stands, was pur- chased by Mr. N. in January, 187 1, for $119,000, the lot is 80 feet by 46 t 1 q, making the price aboiit %$$ per square foot. The lot of Dr. Wheeler, on the northwest corner of Dearborn and Madison streets, was recently transferred to the City Savings Bank at the price of $42,000. This lot is 20 feet by 40 in size, embracing a total area of only 800 square feet, so that the price was $52.50 per square foot. The title has not yet been passed, but the bank company has a refusal of the land at the price mentioned, and has built in a style which in- dicates its intention to take the property. Rentals indicate Higher Values. — -It is not, however, by sales of this kind that we can best arrive at the actual value — even \ the market value — of the most valuable real property in Chicago ; since that class of property is in almost every case so held as to be seldom transferred. Take the ground, corner of Dearborn and Washington streets, on which Kendall block is built. Its area is 3,600 square feet. Before the fire, it was rented in advance of its construction at $40,000, and it now rents for at least $36,000. This, at to per cent., represents a valuation, including the building, of $360,000. The building is worth $80,000 ; deducting which, we have $280,000, or $77.78 per foot for the value of the land. The strip on LaSalle street, corner of Monroe, on which Bryan block is built, affords an- other illustration. This piece, covering 6,400 square feet, and im- proved at an expense of $100,000, rented at $52,000 the first two years for offices. Reckoning as above, and deducting the $100,000, we have $420,000, or $81.25 per square foot, for the value of the land. It may be claimed that the rent is exceptionally high on account of the scarcity of offices at the time it was completed ; but if there is any allowance to be made on that score, it is more than balanced by the en- hanced cost of building during the season of 187 1-2. It must be admitted that the Bryan lot is an exceptional one, as is also the Wheeler lot — both having a great amount of frontage on good streets in proportion to their area. The Nixon and Kendall lots, however, are fair samples of corner lots; and these, judged by fair data, are to be quoted at far higher prices than that of the Willard 15 226 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. lot (concerning which last, it may be remarked that its purchase by Mr. Willard for $100,000, two years ago, was one of the principal grounds on which the buyer was adjudged insane !). A building which stands next to the Chamber of Commerce, and faces the Court House square has recently been erected by Messrs. Scudder & Edwards, in trust for others, and leased in detail at an annual rental which places the value of the land at $28 per square foot ; and the building of Chas. Busby and others on State street, running from the corner of Washington north some 200 feet, has also been leased in detail at an annual rental indicating a value of $44.44 per square foot for the land. But Little High-Priced Land in Chicago. — But while in London there are a dozen thoroughfares in which scarce any land can be had at less than $100 per square foot, and while in New York you may traverse Broadway for miles, or Wall, Bond and Broad streets throughout their whole extent without finding a lot valued at less than $50 a square foot, it will be found that in Chicago, high priced business property does not hold out for any long stretch. In our map of the city, an attempt is made to give in a rough way some idea of the areas within which business and fancy residence property reaches, for a maximum, certain graded prices per front foot. The very limited area within which it reaches the neighborhood of $25 or even $20 per square foot, is not marked out at all ; for the former district would be three or four spots, at the intersection of State with Monroe, Madison and Washington ; and the latter a few exception- ally eligible inside lots in the same vicinity, on State, Madison and Washington. Nor is the limit within which $1,500 per front foot — say 100 feet deep for corner and 125 for inside lots — nor is the district within which that is the maximum price by any means one of very large area. The inevitable effect of the sudden destruction of the whole business quarter, and the uncovering of a square mile of business ground — all anxious to get into the market again as soon as possible — should seriously depreciate the selling value of this property. Property Worth Over $10 per Square Foot. — Fancy prices are not reached until either the available ground is all covered, or certain districts become so decided favorites with merchants as to create a strong pressure towards them. The former contingency has certainly not occurred in Chicago, and the latter in only a very moderate degree. State, Dearborn, Clark, LaSalle, Madison and Washington BUSINESS CAN BE DONE CHEAPLY. 227 streets have, by virtue of their honorable occupancy, their position as great thoroughfares, or the elegance and completeness of their reconstruction, established their title to be first-class streets, on which prices higher than $10 per square foot for inside lots can be com- manded (for a total frontage of not more than ten miles, or an area, say 140 acres). Best Wholesale Streets at a Less Figure. — Off those streets, the prices now paid range entirely: within that figure. Wabash avenue, Michigan avenue and Lake street, permanently first-class wholesale thoroughfares, already occupied by hundreds of the most elegant and substantial warehouses, still have plenty of well-lying lots in market at not more than $8 per square foot, and in some cases as low as $6.50 to $7 ; and South Water and River streets, where a great vol- ume of coarse traffic is transacted at small profits, are still cheaper; while Fifth avenue, Franklin, Market and Monroe streets, whose future as wholesale thoroughfares is pretty well assured and much fine building already done, sell at from $5 to $7 per square foot, the market being, except with regard to Fifth avenue, decidedly slow. On streets occupied by retail shops exclusively, a price for land higher than $5 per square foot is unknown; while the average price of such lots is not above $3.75 per square foot. Business Done Cheaply. — These prices are not only suggestive to capitalists who have considered with us the vital force of Chicago and the probabilities of her future, but they also show under what favorable circumstances business is now transacted in this city. The humble shopman on the cheaper streets unites with a family or two upstairs in paying rent on land and building' worth five to ten thous- and dollars all together. The more pretentious retail dealer, on a rather important street, though outside of the wholesale quarter, pays about one-third (divers dentists, photographers, lodgers, etc., con- tributing the rest,) of the necessary rental on 20 front feet of ground worth $10,000, and a building costing not quite as much. The aver- age jobber pays for three or four floors of a store which cost $15,000, upon ground worth $20,000 — accommodations which can well be afforded him at $3,000 per year. The very large jobbers and retail " princes " pay what they please. Thus it will be seen that the prices of eligible business property in Chicago are remarkably low in proportion to the amount of busi- ness done and in view of the prospects and present prosperity of the city. The first thought growing out of this circumstance is, that it 228 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. favors the general business of the city by enabling landlords to rent at low figures. The next thought is to inquire after the cause, which is very simple and obvious — the fact that, under the present style of building, and without entirely covering the burnt district, a much greater floor area of stores is now in use, or ready for use, than be- fore the fire — hence the lack of present demand for land for com- mercial purposes, and the consequent lowness of prices. The Future of Business Land. — The next thought suggested by the situation is, Will this surplus land be soon required by the inevit- able growth of the city ? And will it ultimately, on favorite streets, reach the prices commanded by such land in New York ? The affir- mative of the former question is easily granted ; of the latter, not so easily. While almost any of the vacant business land in the burnt district of Chicago would be a good, sound investment, taking into consideration the rise in price of from 25 to 100 per cent, which all of it is sure to undergo within five years, and the revenue from rentals which the most of it can be made to produce within that period, it can hardly be expected that, even when Chicago has a million inhab- itants, as New York now has, her Broadway (which is State street) will be commanding any such exorbitant prices as New York's Broad- way now does — say $8,000 per front foot from Wall street clear up to Twenty-third. No one street in Chicago will ever be favored to so great a degree as to bring the prices of its lots up to four or five times those of parallel and intersecting streets, though, of course, some of the influences of the concentration of first class traffic will be felt, and prices will doubtless be paid for business lots in Chicago within the next five years which have never hitherto been heard of. On the wholesale streets, the maximum rates reached will scarcely pass $10 per square foot, there being no special advantage of loca- tion which will cause a jobber to pay rent on more than this, rather than move on south or west ; there being yet hundreds of acres of ground, reasonably convenient to dockage and railroad depots, which are already, by common consent, assigned for ultimate occupancy by the wholesale trade. Inasmuch as the greater part of this ground is now obtainable at $5 or less per square foot, while that lying inside the very next stride of business expansion can be had for $8 to $10, and good mercantile rentals soon derived from it, the desirableness of this class of property as a medium of investment should not be difficult to appreciate. We have said, and shall steadily maintain, that the peculiar to- ADVICE GRATIS. 229 pography of Chicago, superadded to the daily increasing facilities for transacting business, as it were at long range, will tend to broaden the district within which prices of land are moderately high, and militate correspondingly against an extremely high figure in ex- ceptional localities. Nevertheless, those who have studied the ten- dencies of business, know that there are certain absolute advantages to be gained by the concentration of houses in the same line of traffic, which will inevitably cause local pressures for rentals, and raise the price of the best business property in Chicago to a figure far above those at which such property is now held. In view, how- ever, of the liability of such favored sections to shift from place to place in all cities, speculation based upon this fact is hardly any, if at all, safer than buying outside the highest priced quarter, and waiting for the tide of business and profit to approach. w (IX o o K p4 K III % < 6 STREETS OF CHICAGO. Panoramic View of Principal Streets and Edifices— The Old Chicago and the New. State Street. — This splendid thoroughfare, as one of the longest, the broadest, the most important in a business way, and the one on which the fine retail business of the city finds its maximum devel- opment, deserves priority of mention. It extends from North avenue and Lincoln Park, in the North Division, to a point far down toward the south end of the county, where the surveying-chain of man runneth not to the contrary — ■ in all at least ten miles in a straight line, north and south. Of this stretch, the northernmost mile is occupied chiefly by residences of the bstter class, though the State street of the North Side is by no means the aristocratic avenue that no-thoroughfare Dearborn street is. It is well paved, however, and before the fire was well lined with stately elms, and honored with two or three large churches. The glory of State street begins at Lake, where the solid wholesale warehouses of the district near the river give way to the more showy stores which abound further south. These cann3t be described in detail ; let it suffice that from the alley north of Randolph to the alley south of Monroe — four long squares — there stands as good an exhibition of ornate, graceful, varied and costly business architecture as can be found in any equal space of a single street on this continent. Within that space are included the elegant new Windett building, the immense Busby building, with its -400 feet of frontage ornamented with colon- nades carved out of the softly-tinted Cleveland stone ; the Singer building with its huge front of marble, elaborately carved and mass- ively laid — occupied by Messrs. Field, Leiter & Co., from base- ment to roof, for their retail dry-goods business ; that rich, chaste monument of the " p re-igneous period," the First National bank building, with Potter Palmer's elegant stores adjoining it to the south; the splendid facade of Peter Page's building. 232 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. flanked on either side by structures which combine to fill the east side of the square with the most imposing block of stores in the city* — the store of Richards, Shaw & Winslow being of the Lake Superior sandstone, very delicately carved ; the rather striking struc- ture occupied by Clement, Morton & Co., and surmounted by a dome and clock which attract the eye from along distance; the Store of Field, Leiter & Co. modern and attractive store fronts to the south of that ; the Pike building, scarcely less beautiful outside than it is gorgeous inside, with the fixtures and stock of the finest jewelry palace in the United States ; and last and chief, the Palmer House, grandest of existing hotels and most costly of all Chicago buildings yet erected, or likely soon to be erected by private enterprise. Engravings of several of these buildings are given in this volume. We make room also for a brief description of the Palmer House. The external appearance of this remarkable building is best shown in our engraving, which has already attracted the reader's STATE STREET. 233 eye. Its construction was commenced early in July, 187 1, and has not since ceased, except for severe winter, weather ; the force em- ployed a majority of the time being on the average about 350 hands. The plan of the Palmer House was only evolved after several plans had been submitted to the proprietor, Mr. Potter Palmer, by the best Chicago architects, and after he had, with the architect selected for the purpose (Mr. C. M. Palmer), traveled over Europe and availed himself, not only of the hints of the architects there, but of the ideas to be gathered from the finest hotels in that center of civilization and luxury. The best hotels in Europe are probably the Grand, at Paris, and the Beau Rivage d'Angleterre, at Geneva. Mr. Palmer's determination was to eclipse them all, and the unanimous opinion of travelers is that he has done it. First, we must speak of the substantial points characteristic of this hotel. The chief of these is the massiveness and solidity with which it is built. The edifice contains 17,000,000 bricks, of which over 1,000,000 go into partition walls. It has been said that the Palmer House contains more bricks than any two hotels on this continent, and more iron than all of them together — an exception being made of Mr. Stewart's immense Woman's Home, at New York. There are about 90,000 square feet of marble tiling in the floor of the building, and all the flooring is laid upon massive beds of cement, supported by I beams brought from Belgium, with intervening arches of cor- rugated iron. The precautions against fire are in all respects very complete. There are also about this hotel many novel and excep- tionally thorough arrangements for admitting light liberally every- where, avoiding unpleasant kitchen and closet odors, etc., which cannot be particularized here. The dimensions of the building are, on State street, 254 feet; on Monroe street, 250 feet; and on Wabash avenue, 131 feet; total area covered, 72,500 square feet. This is necessarily divided up by courts, and of these, the carriage court, entered by portes cocheres from three streets, is 90 x 120 feet in dimensions. The facings of the several fronts are of gray sandstone, with the first story and entresol of massive iron castings, which alone cost $100,000. Of the facing stone, 160,000 cubic feet were used. The peculiarity which, after all, most impresses the visitor, is the more than palatial richness of the interior finish. The immense office of the hotel, 64 x 106 feet, and 24 feet in height, is wainscoted every- where with Italian marble, stu dded with panels of remarkably rich 234 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. rose brocatelle marble, many of the natural mosaics exhibited in these panels being of rare and curious beauty. The wainscoting of the counter is the same. The next feature on which the wealth of the builder has been most conspicuously lavished is the grand staircase of Carrara marble, springing from the ground to the uppermost floor, and constructed upon that wonderful self-supporting plan whereby each step has only to be fixed at one end — the whole stretching outward from the wall with apparently no support at all. The principle is a variation of the keystone, and is applied in only one other instance in America — Girard College. Some idea of the startling weight thus suspended in mid-air may be conjectured from the fact that at each landing (of which there are several to every story) there is a square block weigh- ing 5,200 pounds. The intermediate stairs are solid blocks, and weigh perhaps 1,200 pounds each. The total cost of the edifice falls but little short of $2,000,000 The style of the furnishing is correspondingly elegant, and the bill for that item will be but little inside of $500,000. All the front rooms, up to the fourth or fifth floor, are furnished with satin or vel- vet upholstery, Wilton or moquette carpets, and have elegantly carved mantels, on which stand clocks of bronze, gilt or or-molu, with other ornaments to match. The dining-room and other salles a manger are five in number, located contiguously to each other, and having a total area of 12,033 square feet. The principal dining room , 64 x 76 feet in size, is arranged so as to suggest an open Italian court, the sweep of the eye being relieved by massive fluted columns extending around the room, as if supporting piazzas. There are 700 rooms in the Palmer House, and the electric apparatus by which the occupants of each communicate with the office, includes nearly 100 miles of wire. Perhaps these figures are sufficient to give the reader a fair general idea of the largest and costliest hotel in the world. South of Adams street, there is as yet but little that is noteworthy on State street. For a considerable distance the ground swept of its old-time shanties by the fiery breath of that October simoon, has not yet been covered by the structures of the imperial era. The most of the landlords hereaway are waiting on each other for concerted action with regard to street widening and paving; and this will probably come as soon as there is a really urgent demand for more first-class stores, which at present there is not. Still further south, viz. : be- yond Harrison street, this thoroughfare is a most unattractive, nay, MAXIMUM VALUES ON STATE STREET. 2 35 positively forbidding resort, either for the pedestrian or the eques- trian. Its road-bed is of cobble stones or of dirt, its buildings are mere rookeries, its shops, whisky saloons and variety stores of the third rate, and its dwellings, boarding houses and brothels. But we shall change all that some day. South of Twenty-second street there is a moral improvement, but Springer's Block. not an architectural one. The destiny of the street is doubtless to be the principal shopping thoroughfare for a mile on either side throughout its whole extent south of the river; and the shops will take their character from that of the section of the community to which they minister. Values of land on State street rise to perhaps the maximum now reached in Chicago, viz. : $2,500 per front foot in the vicinity of Washington, Madison, and Monroe streets — a figure that has hardly been commanded since the fire, though rentals much more than justify it. Wabash Avenue. — This avenue, lying- next east of State street, was long the finest residence thoroughfare in the city, and had the 27,6 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. advantage of being early laid out in a style appropriate to a high degree of elegance. The march of improvement, however, fixed a different destiny for it, and the episode of October 9th hastened the change. Many of its homes, which still remained such, were swept out of existence in the great destruction, and the remainder, lying north of Twenty-second street, were, almost without exception, in- vaded by Trade during the hurrying week which followed. It was at first believed quite generally that Wabash avenue would at once become the favorite seat of the first - class retail and whole- sale trade, i. e., the Broadway of Chicago; and building commenced very promptly and vigorously towards this end. It was soon stayed, however, and the class of business referred to has now settled back in almost exactly its former quarter, — the showy stores on State street, well down town, and the more than substantial ones at the foot of Wabash and Michigan avenues. There they establish the foun- dation of a grand wholesale traffic district, which will extend gradu- ally southward and make Wabash avenue in time all that it aspires to be ; but the process will be slower than was first calculated upon, and the character of the architecture and the traffic which it accom- modates, will be less brilliant, though not, perhaps, less rich. Wabash avenue can already boast some splendid business archi- tecture, which extends in two almost continuous lines as far south as Adams street, with but few interruptions as far on as Congress street, where the line of the burnt district crosses the avenue from the southeast. Among the finest of the buildings are Peter Page's block and the Wabash avenue front of Potter Palmer's Grand Hotel, while along both sides of the avenue, from Washington to Congress street, are many store fronts made splendid by show windows of plate glass in unprecedented sizes, through which are seen, as vividly as if it were in the open street, collections of costly merchandise which realize in their marvelous beauty the tales of Aladdin's palaces. A very showy and withal somewhat remarkable store front, is that of Giles Brothers, which presents various Egyptian designs in various kinds of carven and polished stone. Aiken's Theatre and the Post Office- — a church metamorphosed for the temporary purpose — are among the noteworthy structures north of Harrison street. South of that dividing line, the former residences of the aristocracy still remain — some of them still occupied as shops, but the most of them given over to that close follower-up of retreating aristocracy, the genteel boarding house keeper. This is the rule to Twenty- MICHIGAN AVENUE. 2 37 second street — south of which the avenue is an elegant residence thoroughfare, and will remain such — though less so than Michigan and one or two other avenues to the east — through a long period of Chicago's future. Prices of Wabash avenue real estate during the past year have been low as compared with some former periods. Probably $1,250 per front foot would command almost any vacant Fine Art Building. business lot now for sale south of Washington street. The best price obtainable for residence property south of Twenty-second street, would be $250 per front foot. Michigan Avenue. — The history of Michigan avenue corresponds in many respects with that of Wabash avenue. It is not five years since there were still remaining on this thoroughfare, between the river (which is here bridged) and Washington street, a considerable sprinkling of the old-time palaces of the prairie princes ; and not merely that, but a still more interesting relic — some of the barracks of the old Fort Dearborn. If any of these primeval palaces were still remaining at the time of the fire, that affair certainly made a 27,8 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. sudden end of them, and their place has been filled by wholesale warehouses devoted to the grocery, hardware, and other heavy lines of business. These extend as far south as Madison street, beyond which the new regime of Michigan avenue is not very fully illus- trated. Michigan avenue has in Rush street and its bridge a prac- tical prolongation to the point in the North Division where the latter street strikes the lake and terminates. The Exposition Building is the most conspicuous structure on this avenue, occupying the entire frontage of two squares and a street, viz. : from Monroe street on the North to Jackson street on the south. A faithful likeness of this Chicago wonder is shown upon the margin of our county map. The "wonder" of the affair consists chiefly in the speed with which the building was contracted for, built, and thrown open to the public after its construction had been de- termined upon. It was not until the 16th day of June, 1873, that the first blow was struck toward excavating for the foundations of the building; and on the 25th of September the exhibition was in full blast, in its palace of brick and iron and glass. A brief descrip- tion of this edifice follows. It has the form of an elongated ellipse, being, without the addi- tions, 800 feet long by 200 feet wide, the floor area being 243,936 square feet, or 110,936 square feet more than that of the New York Crystal Palace of 1852. The immense vaulted roof of the building is supported by trussed arches of wooden framework, thirty-one in number and each 150 feet span. The walls, to a height of twenty - five feet, are of brick. Above them comes a course of roofing, 2>2> feet and oblique ; a course of glass, 17 feet, and oblique ; a course of roofing covered with tin, 56 feet; a course of glass, 9 feet high, and perpendicular ; and finally, a course of tin roofing, 14 feet, to the ridge or apex. Above all this, at the center, projects the grand central dome, 60 feet in diameter, and 165 feet in height. There are also domes at the two ends of the building, each 48 feet square, and rising to a height of 140 feet. The space upon the main floor is arranged in concentrix ellipses, as at the Paris Exposition of 1867, the steam power for machinery being placed near the north end. A gallery containing an aggregate of 57,000 square feet of flooring, extends clear around the building. Some idea of the magnitude of the Exposition building may be formed from the following figures : The edifice contains 3,000,- 000 feet of timber and lumber; 1,716,000 bricks; 4,200 cubic THE EXPOSITION BUILDING. 2 39 feet of stone ; 150,000 square feet of tin ; 40,200 square feet of glass, mostly the ribbed plate glass used in the skylights; and 14,000 feet of gas pipe, much of it three inches in diameter. Into the construction of the building went 3,744 days of mason work, and 13,200 days of carpenter work. The total cost was but a few dollars one way or the other from $250,000. It may be added that George A. Springer's Residence. the enterprise has already proved, like most Chicago public enter- prises, an unequivical success. The daily attendance — during the first three weeks of exhibition constantly increased from 15,000 or 20,000 per day, and on some days reached as high as 70,000. — To return to Michigan avenue. There are but two noteworthy business structures south of the Exposition building. These are the Gardner House, first of the new first-class hotels to rise from the ashes, and the one which boasts an uninterrupted lake view, and the Fine Art Building, illustrated abuve. To the east of the avenue, for a mile along the lake shore, stretches 240 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Lake Park, a 40 acre tract, now being converted into a beautiful public pleasure ground — the only one in the business quarter of the city. The destiny of the section of Michigan avenue facing the park and the lake is reserved as yet, to await the upshot of certain disputes between the Illinois Central railway corporation, the city and certain individual property holders, relative to the right of the railway com- James Bolton's Residence. pany under a State statute of four years ago, to come in and take a portion of the north end of the park for its depots and yards. The really choice residence quarter, on Michigan avenue, com- mences as we go southward, at a short distance south of Sixteenth street. Thence to the point where the business of Twenty-second suddenly interrupts it, the house ar chitecture is of a class to show to most imposing effect, especially in view of the unusual width — 100 f eet — f the avenue. South of Twenty-second street the tide of fashion and elegance sets in again, and is rapidly pushing south- ward, with no known obstacle to stay its progress. RESIDENCE AVENUES. 24I Values upon Michigan avenue, north of Sixteenth street, range rather below those of corresponding points on Wabash avenue. South of that, and especially south of Twenty-second street, the rule is reversed. Residence lots in the vicinity of Twenty-fourth to Twenty-sixth streets, command $300 and upwards per front foot. Indiana Avenue. — This avenue does not, like Michigan and ' No. 924 Prairie Avenue. Wabash, penetrate the center of the city. It commences at the lake shore, in a maze of railroad turnouts, north of Fourteenth street, and runs uninterruptedly southward, becoming at once a highly respect- able residence avenue, albeit traversed by a horse railway which some of the patricians have struggled bitterly against, but which others, equally devoted to the high reputation of the avenue for elegance, have favored with equal zeal. The maximum price obtainable at present for Indiana avenue lots is probably about $300 per front foot — this in the vicinity of Eighteenth and Nineteenth streets, where the avenue lies near the high lake shore, and is exceedingly well built. 16 ^■" 242 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. East of Indiana Avenue. — The choicest residence property in Chicago lies along the avenues to the east of Indiana, viz., in their order, Prairie, Calumet, and South Park avenues. Prairie avenue, from Sixteenth street, where it begins, south to Twenty-second street, has the finest residences, and its few vacant lots command the high- est prices ($450 to $550 per front foot) yet realized for residence Louis YVahl's Residence. lots in Chicago ; though the beautiful sites on Calumet avenue, for two squares north of Twenty-second street, mostly occupied by im- provements of a very high grade, would doubtless be rated at about the same price. It is along Prairie avenue that the splendid houses of Daniel Thompson (the most costly in Chicago as yet), Marshall Field, George Armour, Edson Keith, Elbridge G. Keith, Geo. M. Pullman (now in progress), Louis Wahl and other leading citi- zens are located. These residences, like the most of those built in Chicago of late, are characterized by a much higher degree of taste, RESIDENCE AVENUES. 243 and appreciation of the true principles of residence architecture, than has been characteristic of the West or of the Western Continent. Houses which from the outside would not be readily noted for any- thing far above the common, unless it were an extra minuteness in the finish, or an unusual solidity of structure, not only in the house itself, but in its surroundings, will be found, if one can gain the open sesame, and penetrate to the interior, to be constructed, fitted, and fur- nished in a style of sumptuous and tasteful luxury, attainable only through the most liberal expenditure of means, and the most intelli- gent employment of skilled artisans and artists. The age of luxury has not yet so far progressed in Chicago as to make these things attainable at home, and so our Prairie avenue princes have had in many cases to send abroad for their architects, frescoers and uphol- sterers, as well as for their special patterns of Aubusson or Axmin- ster, and of China and glass wares for their tables. The result is a degree of taste, as well as elegance, surprising to connoisseurs from abroad who take into consideration how young Chicago still is, and how likely the traveller would therefore be to find traces of '* shoddy " among her wealthy classes. Calumet avenue and its elegant rows of houses have already been referred to. East of that comes South Park avenue (formerly Kan- kakee avenue), which becomes the Grand Boulevard at Thirty-fifth street. This avenue is finely built for a few squares southward from Twenty-third street, and will doubtless ultimately be continued in first-class style clear to the Boulevard. We present a single Illustra- tion of the better style, in the dwelling of Mr. Bolton. Dearborn Street. — Passing west of State street, we come to Dear- born — a street which exists on both sides of the river, but which has no bridge or tunnel as yet. The architecture of this street had be- come greatly improved during the two years preceding the fire. The two years following that calamity have witnessed a still greater im- provement, insomuch that the average character of Dearborn street architecture, taking taste and quality both into the account, is behind that of no street in. Chicago. Fronts are ornate and almost endlessly varied; the chaste and stately Illinois marble being constantly con- trasted with mosaics of fancy bricks and tiles, with heavily relieved iron castings, with the sober red sandstone of Lake Superior (as in the " Tribune" building), with the rich and richly-carved Amherst sandstone (as in the Tremont hotel), with the bright yellow St. Genevieve sandstone alternating with the bright red Philadelphia -■ 244 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. brick (as in Portland block), and with the " grand, gloomy and pecu- liar " gray of the Buena Vista sandstone, as it is beginning to appear in the new Post Office and Custom House. From the river to Mon- roe street there are now but two gaps unfilled along this street, ex- cepting the sound walls of the old Post Office, not yet rehabilitated, and Eli Bates's Residence. a small space opposite, to the south of the " Journal " building. From Jackson street south to Van Buren, the street is not yet fully opened, though the act was long since ordered by the City Council. Dearborn street is eminently an office street, there being little else but banks, real estate offices, newspaper establishments (the "Tribune," "Jour- nal " and " Post " among them), lawyers' offices and the like through- out its whole extent, south of Lake street. Values on Dearborn street, where land is vacant, will range from $10 to $25 per square foot. North Dearborn street is a residence thoroughfare of the first class, CLARK STREET. 245 the residences thus far built upon it being of a character to do honor to the most refined and wealthy city on the continent. The most of these have been erected during the season just passed. We present two eminently worthy examples, in the houses of Mr. Eli Bates and Mr. O. W. Potter. Clark Street. — Perhaps no thoroughfare in Chicago is better known O. W. Potter's Residence. than this. On it could always be found, in the days before the fire, more pedestrians than on any other street in the city ; and the rule applied for a distance of more than a mile on each side of the river. The street, therefore, abounded in retail shops, bazaars, saloons, etc. The same is true now, though in somewhat less degree. The re- builders of Clark street were if anything too ambitious, and cheap little shops are therefore less attainable than they were in the days of shanties and brick shells. With a general exception, however, in 246 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. favor of a higher degree of style, the rule of the " pre-igneous period will apply to Clark street, north and south, now. Nine buildings in every ten of the new street have showy stone fronts ; and about a mile and a half of buildings have already been erected since the fire within the limits previously referred to. Among the most prominent of these buildings are the Sherman House, Pacific Hotel, Lakeside Bachelder Building. building, Reaper block, Ogden's building, and McCormick's and Kingsbury halls, the former of the^e, situated at the corner of Michi- gan street, north side, being the largest public hall in the city. It is on Clark street, also that the new Court House will have one of its prin- cipal fronts. Land on this thoroughfare, in the vicinity of Madison street or of any of the public buildings, is prized as high as $25 per square foot, whence it recedes to very moderate figures at the south end of the street, where railroads interfere with the traffic. On North Clark street, prices range from $200 to $1,000 per front foot. La Salle Street. — By means of its superb tunnel under the river. LA SALLE STREET. 247 sufficient to accommodate 50,000 vehicles and a million foot passen- gers per day, La Salle street is made an uninterrupted thoroughfare, stretching from its intersection with Clark street, opposite Lincoln Park, to its southern terminus at the Michigan Southern depot, on Van Buren street. North of the river, La Salle street is sought by the elite of the North Division for choice residence sites, its lots being of more generous dimensions than those of any other street there Pacific Hotel. except a portion of Dearborn. South of the river, it takes no inde- pendent character until Randolph street is reached, where it at once becomes the great exchange street of Chicago — its buildings being invariably of the first-class, and occupied by bankers, insurance bro- kers, grain brokers, real estate dealers and the like. The Chamber of Commerce fronts on Washington street, but gives the key note to the business of La Salle street, along which its greater dimension extends. The Pacific Hotel has its west front upon this street. The street is already built up solidly, in the manner hinted, to Monroe street, and the next revival of the building fever will leave not a foot uncovered until the southern terminus of the street is reached. The architecture is rich, though not ornate, including the two best 248 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. built office structures in the city — Gallup & Peabody's building and W. K. Nixon's building, located at Madison and Monroe streets res- pectively. The former was built at an expense of $50 for every square foot covered, or $200,000 in all. Other fine structures are the Merchants Bank building, diagonally opposite the Chamber of Commerce, the State Savings Bank building, opposite the Court House square, the Union Bank building, Major block, and Metro- politan block. The price of land on La Salle street has never been fixed above $18 per square foot, though some of it is earning in- terest on $77 per square foot, with almost an absolute certainty of its continuance. Fifth Avenue. — Next west of La Salle street is Fifth avenue, for- merly called Wells street, a title under which it acquired a reputation which has now been shaken off along with the name to which it was attached. Fifth avenue reaches from Lincoln Park to a point where it strikes a bend in the South Branch, near Taylor street. North of the river, it is devoted mainly to retail trade, the Germans being the predominating race among the shopkeepers. South of the river the traffic is in a somewhat transitory state, inclining more to jobbing trade than anything else. Upon this street, as well as upon Wash- ington street, the " Times " and " Staats Zeitung" buildings have a front, the former being a remarkably complete newspaper building, already rivaling any similar establishment in the world in the extent of its facilities for the speedy production of large daily editions, and promising to excel all, without exception, when the addition now in progress is completed, rendering the whole structure 180x80 in size, three entire floors of which are devoted to the editing, printing and mailing of the " Times' " enormous daily edition. Fifth avenue is rebuilt, chiefly in a very thorough manner, with showy stone fronts to an extent equivalent to two-thirds of the entire frontage from the river south to Adams street. The maximum price of inside busi- ness lots on Fifth avenue is $1,000 per front foot. Franklin Street. — This street, from the river south to Madison street, where it terminates, is mostly rebuilt with four and five story buildings, used as wholesale warehouses. Market Street — Is short, and would not be mentioned except that it ends the list of north and south streets east of the south branch of the river. It expands to a width of 200 feet between Randolph and Madison street, at the corner of which latter street stands the immense wholesale warehouse of Messrs. Field, Leiter & Co. SOUTH WATER STREET. 249 — a building six stories high, and 190x290 feet in ground dimen- sions. South Water Street. — We come now to east and west business streets, of which South Water, Lake, Randolph, Washington and Madison are the principal. South Water street, running from the grounds of the Illinois Central Railway to the South Branch of the l> Air - Line " Elevator river, is, with River street, which branches off from it northeastwardly at Wabash Avenue, devoted to traffic in heavy and crude articles — chiefly produce, shipping stores, railway supplies and coarse gro- ceries. Both streets have been solidly rebuilt since the fire, in a style much superior to the old, and all the stores are occupied. The ideas of South Water street merchants relative to rents are so firmly fixed, at figures not exceeding (say) $5,000 per annum, for a first- rate 25-feet store, five stories high; that the price of land has net yet sprung up to ante-fire figures along this thoroughfare. One thous- and dollars per foot, would be considered a very high figure ; and 250 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. some lots less eligible than most, have gone for $500 per foot within a year. As happens on most other thoroughfares in Chicago, the selling price falls far short of the capitalized value of the rentals. Lake Street. — This was once the street of Chicago. It is now ? although a long thoroughfare, and the site of a well-defined line of trade (which has not yet swelled to such proportions as to demand all the space the street affords ), less frequented and less patronized than any one of a half dozen Chicago thoroughfares. Its specialty, east of the river, is heavy wholesale trade — leather, iron, tobacco, specialties, etc. Toward the lake it is exceedingly well rebuilt, most- ly in handsome stone fronts, among which the elegant north fagad e of the Tremont House is facile princeps. Other Lake street buildings have been mentioned in connection with other avenues upon which they also front. The Marine Bank building presents a showy front in Athens' marble, which is also the material of Mr. Walter's build- ing, on the northeast corner of Clark street, near by. The " Inter- Ocean," one of the three great morning dailies for which Chicago is distinguished, occupies most attractive apartments in a building which faces north upon Lake street, east of Clark. West of the river, Lake street is occupied for two or three squares' distance by produce commission houses, after which, third-rate shops to Ann street, then dwellings past Union Park, and thence on- ward a better class of retail stores, interspersed with occasional dwellings, to Western avenue. To that point ( three miles ) the street is well paved and sewered. The maximum price for unoccupied land on Lake street, outside of a small district near the Central Depot and the Tremont House, cannot be more than $1,250 per foot front, and the market is slow. Owing to the fact already cited, more than an adequate supply of buildings for the class of trade that has been assigned to this street. Randolph Street — Has not been content with fulfilling its former mission of ministering to the wants of the retail trade. Not only have the first two squares from the eastern terminus been taken up by stately jobbing warehouses, but the same class of buildings has extended itself far westward, leaving no place for any small shop- keeper other than an occasional barber or restaurateur to obtain a foothold. Of the notable buildings of before the fire, the Sherman House is supplanted by another Sherman House, one story higher and much more elegant, (as witness, the accompanying cut.) That old landmark, Wood's Museum, quartered in the worst of RANDOLPH STREET. 25 1 rookeries, is no more ; but a stone's throw farther west one may step into Hooley's Theatre — a play-house unexcelled on the continent in the beauty and convenience of its interior, and also of most pleasing outside appearance. The Fidelity Savings Bank building, adjoining the theatre, ( and both are opposite the Court House square ) is one of the other architectural beauties of the street. From Fifth avenue Sherman House westward to the river, Randolph street is about half rebuilt, the work of the present season being by no means inconsiderable in this neigh- borhood. West of the river, to where, at Union Park, it loses itself in Bryan Place, there is nothing to distinguish Randolph from any other respectable horse-railway street. Prices range upward as high as $1,200 to $1,400 per front foot, east of LaSalle, dropping to $1,000 or $1,100 between that and the river. Washington Street — Is a thoroughfare of which the new Chicago may well feel profoundly proud. No better built thoroughfare than CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. this is for a distance something over half a mile, exists on this con- inent It may properly be called the Wall street of Chicago, since has, within a distance of three squares, no less than seventeen tanks and a chamber of commerce. Upon this fine avenue front the massive Singer building (Field, Leiter & Go's retail store), the COLEIIOUR BUII.DIXC,. fine edifices of the First National, the Merchant's National, and the Union National banks; Portland block, Kendall block, the Metho- dist Church block, and a remarkably beautiful series of varied facades which, with these two, fill up the space fronting north between Dear- torn and Clark streets; the Reaper block of C. H. McCormick, a high towering, colonnaded structure, with Mansard roof- the Cham- of Commerce; the "Times," and » Staats Zeitung " buildings -the latter a six-story structure, profusely ornamented with colossal stat- WASHINGTON STREET. 255 uary; Mr. Olinger's Washington block, etc., etc. And upon this street, faced everywhere by architecture worthy of the situation, will stand one front of the proposed Court House and City Hall — an edi- fice upon which it is purposed to spend five or six millions of dollars within the next three years. Washington street crosses the South Branch by means of a tunnel First Congregational Church, cor. Washington and Ann Streets. — the first ever built in Chicago. For a mile west of the river the condition of the street is not well defined at present. About a third of a mile is taken up by manufactures, and beyond that is a resi- dence quarter which has been among the finest in the city — is still so after reaching May street, or thereabonts. Washington street is interrupted by Union Park, but resumes its course at Ashland ave- nue, and extends thence to Central Park, being almost wholly occu- pied with elegant detached residences or stylish rows, as far out as Western avenue. On Washington street, anywhere east of Fifth avenue, land is w W i> i— i X in <; MADISON STREET. 255 worth $20 per square foot ; while corner lots, if in the market, would command a higher figure. The choice residence lots either •side of Union Park bring from $200 to $300 per front foot. Madison Street. — The importance of this thoroughfare has been greatly heightened by the fire and the train of events which followed in its course. Being already the best appointed shop thoroughfare of the West Division, it was, immediately after the disaster, impetu- ously taken possession of by a thousand enterprising dealers in addi- tion to those already occupying it ; and, as four-fifths of the entire population of the city were forced to pass the winter in the West Division, West Madison street soon became densely thronged from morning until night. And as it came to be generally accepted, about the same time, that there was to be a slight acceleration of the south- ward movement of trade, as a result of the fire, there was a marked tendency of business located on streets farther north to get on Mad- ison, as the great street car thoroughfare between the West and South Divisions. As a consequence, Madison is now the most thoroughly occupied street east of the river. Its uses are of endless variety, like those of Broadway in New York, or Chestnut street in Philadelphia. Near the river, and again near Wabash avenue, it is occupied by the largest jobbing houses in their respective lines — as Keith. Brothers, hats, caps, and straw goods ; Field, Leiter & Co., dry goods ; C. P. Kellogg & Co., clothing; and C. M. Henderson & Co., boots and shoes — all situated near the river. Between the points named there are a great many jobbing stores ; those in paper stock and stationery being clustered between Clark and Dearborn ; a great many large retail stores in clothing, jewelry, and other lines; a great many offices, and several banks ; one theatre — McVicker's — the largest in town ; and other concomitants, too numerous to mention, of a great popular thoroughfare. Very little land on Madison street has changed hands of late, to afford an index of prices. Rentals would easily justify $20 per square foot, and in one case — a peculiar one, however, in which two street fronts were afforded — a sale has been made at $25 per square foot ; and in another case — a very small corner lot — $33 per square foot. This last is, we believe, the highest price at which any entire building lot has ever been sold in Chicago. Ashland Avenue. — Foremost among the fancy residence thorough- fares of the West Division of the city, at least when reckoned by its future as well as its present, stands Ashland avenue, from Union 256 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Park south to Twelfth street. The street is laid out one hundred feet wide, as follows : Roadway fifty feet, and twenty-five feet of area on each side, eight feet of which is sidewalk and seventeen feet grass plat. In the center of the grass plats on each side have been planted large elm trees at intervals of forty feet and extending south to Twelfth street, on each side of the avenue. They vary from twelve S. J. Walker's Residence. to eighteen inches in diameter of trunk, and average a height of sixty feet. The expense of the trees and planting has been $26,000. At intervals of 150 feet on each side, also on line of the center of the grass plats, are set very large rustic flower vases. The street is graded, macadamized, and gravelled from Madison street south to Twelfth street — a distance of just a mile of most magnificent drive- way. The sidewalks are all to be uniform and laid in flag-stones, though in some places temporary wooden walks are down now. Beside this, there is a stipulated building line of twenty-five feet, giving fifty feet of grass plat on each side of the street. The build- DESCRIPTION OF BUILDINGS. 257 ing line is stipulated in every deed made since the improvement in 1869, and the restriction extends fifteen years. This splendid avenue has no equal anywhere for symmetry, uni- formity and breadth. Mr. Saml. J. Walker, who owns a vast amount of frontage, and to whom the avenue is chiefly indebted for its pres- ent magnificent appearance, made the first building improvement on the street in 1864. This consisted of the erection of six fine brick houses, on different corners; and in 1868 twenty fine marble front houses were added by him, and thus in four years from the building of the first house it had become an avenue of palaces, and all this through the means of but one of Chicago's many princely capital- ists. On this avenue, south of Madison street and fronting east, stands St. John's Episcopal Church, an edifice which, when com- pleted, will cost $150,000, and will have no superior in the city. In the same vicinity — that is, north of Monroe street — are the elegant residences of Judge Rogers, Mr. P. C. Maynard, Mr. D. F. Cameron, Mr. George Bartlett, Rev. Dr. Kittridge, Judge S. M. Moore, and Mr. George Bryan. South of Monroe street, where the most building is now being done, stand the residences of General B. H. Campbell, Mr. O. Cronkhite, Mr. S. N. Wilcox, (in progress, to cost $150,000), Mr. Henry Greenebaum, Mr. M. D. Buchanan, Mr. S. D. Kreigh, Mr. S. J. Walker, Mr. Henry Waller, Hon. Carter H. Harrison, Mr. Geo. W. Stanford, Mr. True, Hon. J. D. Ward, M. C, Mr. E. C. Waller, Mr. John Lewis, Mr. Richard Edwards, and others. Property unoccupied along this avenue, from Madison to Harrison streets, brings about $250 per front foot ; south of that somewhat less. EXPLANATION. Subjoined are to be found descriptions of some of the edifices illustrated in tbe foregoing chapter, and which it was not practicable, consistently with the plan of the chapter, to describe in detail in the text. SPRINGER BUILDING. (See illustration, x>age 235 J This beautiful block occupies the southwest corner of State and Randolph streets, and was erected by Geo. A. Springer, Esq. It is calculated both for offices and stores. The fronts are built in Athens limestone and Cleveland sandstone cappings. The structure fronts 107 feet on State, and 95 feet on Randolph street. The two handsome entrances are done in Cleveland stone, with angle columns of Lake Superior red sandstone. The office entrance is on State street, the stairway being placed between two walls faced with red brick. This is of a massive and tasty design. The block is four stories and a high basement in height. The general style of architecture is Veronese Gothic, and this was the first building erected in this city with cornices, chimnies and gables entirely of terra-cotta. These are backed with brick, and a parapet wall is carried two feet above the roof. The entablature containing the owner's name, seen at the corner of the building, was modeled entirely by hand, cut into bricks and 1/ 25« CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. baked, and then placed in the building, It is thus much more perfect than if moulded in the usual way. The offices are finished in black walnut, and heated with two hot water furnaces. This manner of heating is adopted in no other building in the city. The basement and first floor have very fine vaults, one of which is made very large for jewelers' purposes, The build- ing cost $70,000, and with the site is worth $270,000. THE FINE ART INSTITUTE. (See illustration^ page 237. ) The Schureman & Hand Marble Mantel Co. have erected, at the southwest corner of Michigan avenue and West Van Buren street, the substantial building shown on page 237, for the purposes of carrying on their business, and of a hall for the display of paintings and statuary. The company occupy the basement for a working room, and the first floor as an office and salesroom. The first floor is raised nearly the whole of its depth, the low space in front being filled by samples of the company's work. Windows situated in the wall, caused by the rise in the floor, show scores of busy workmen smoothing, sawing and cutting in the basement. The second floor is occupied by the Lake Shore Art Gallery of Mr. Aitken, and the third by artists' studios. In rear of the Gallery is a store-room for the stock of the firm. The facade of the building is modern in style. The structure overlooks Lake Park. RESIDENCE OF MR. GEO. A. SPRINGER. {See illustration, page 239.) Mr. George A. Springer, one of Chicago's earlier settlers, and a man largely interested in property south of the city limits, owns the excellent homestead, represented in the cut, at the corner of Prairie avenue and Thirty-ninth street, situated at the point where the first-named street jogs to the east, thus placing Mr. Springer's lot and residence at the head of and over- looking that splendidly-finished thoroughfare. The residence is a very large two story frame, with Mansard story; a massive porch on the west side, where the main entrance is, and bay -windows on the north and south sides. The interior arrangement and furnishing are on a style of liberal expenditure proportionate with the wealth of the proprietor. The grounds are very large and handsomely laid out with asphalt walks, which alone cost $6,000. A number of handsome shade trees are scattered through the lot, besides many shrubs and evergreens, flower vases, etc. The whole is surrounded by a high picket fence. Two rows of shade trees are planted in front, and excellent sidewalks are provided. The situation of Mr. Springer's place is the finest of any in this neighborhood, and for a genuine look of comfort and good taste it is equalled by few in the city. The improvements are worth $30,000, and the site, an entire block, is worth $125 per foot, making the total value of the property $120,000. RESIDENCE" OF MR. JAMES BOLTON. (See illustration, page 240.) The above superb residence is the home of James Bolton, Esq., General Agent Singer Man- ufacturing Co. Its location is on the northeast corner of South Park avenue and Twenty-fourth street. It is a stone front, two stories and basement, anu Mansard roof. The bay projection, Been on the south side is very handsome, of liberal size, and adds greatly to the general sym- metry of this beautiful structure. The Mansard roof and observatory are constructed and finished in the very best manner possible. The steps to the entrance, window caps, cornices and basement work are massively and excellently put in, and the whole structure may be truthfully called first-class, elegant and symmetrical in every particular. The cut is a faithful one, and discloses all that is claimed above and much more. The large and handsome grounds and improvements make the homestead worth from $10,000 to $75,000. RESIDENCE OF MR. LOUIS WAHL. (See illustration page 242.) This superb mansion is situated on Prairie avenue, between Twentieth and Twenty-first streets, fronting towards the lake, of which a fine view is had from the front windows. The structure was begun in March, 1871, and finished in June, 1873. It stands upon a lot embrac- ing 113 feet of ground, which has been converted into a splendid graded lawn. The building is a basement, two full stories and a Mansard story, in height, with front and side walls of Cleveland sandstone. It has two octagon windows in front, and one on the south side, a fea- ture which is carried to the Mansard roof. The roof is covered with variegated slate, and sur- rounded by Corinthian dormers of elegant pattern. This roof is capped by ornamented iron work. The dimensions are 56x90 feet. Inside the basement, which is finished in oiled black walnut and ash ; the first floor in black walnut and French walnut veneering, elaborately fin- ished. The frescoing in parlor, sitting room and library is beautiful in the extreme. This frescoing was done under the personal supervision of Mrs. Wahl, as was also the forty thou- sand dollars worth of wood work in the house. It is one of the most expensive and elabo- rately finished dwellings in Chicago. A two-story barn and an extensive grapery stand on the rear portion of the lot. The improvements cost $105,000, and with the lot are worth $160,000. Mr Wahl's total investment on the property and furnishing is about $200,000. DESCRIPTION OF BUILDINGS. 259 RESIDENCE OF MR. ELI BATES. (See illustration, page 244J Mr. Bates, the senior member of one of the largest lumber firms of the Northwest, has erected upon the northeast corner of North Dearborn and Schiller streets, the beautiful resi- dence of which the cut printed on a preceding page is an illustration. The design is quite original as well as very aristocratic. The material used in the outer walls is the Philadelphia pressed brick, which is by far the smoothest and nicest of any manufactured. The building- is two stories with hip roof of slate. The arrangement of the verandas adds as much to the appearance as to the convenience of the building. On the east and south sides are projecting bay windows, running the full height of the house, terminating in a cone shaped roof with ornamental finial. The apex of the roof is ornamented by a handsome pattern of iron cast- ing. The Avails of the structure are embellished with belts of Minturn tile, cornice and cap- pings of stone. The interior is thoroughly modern in arrangement and improvements intro- duced. The rooms are of liberal size and constructed on true principles of convenience and comfort. All the finishing is in hard wood and bronze. The house and improvements cost $50,000; with the groundslhey are worth $100,000. c RESIDENCE OF MR. O. W. POTTER. (See illustration, page 245. J The fine residence of O. W. Potter, Esq., President of the North Chicago Rolling Mill Co., is situated at the northwest corner of Dearborn and Schiller streets on a large lot hand- somely improved. The dwelling is of Milwaukee brick, with neat stone trimmings, is 43 feet front by 07 feet deep, two story and basement and full Mansard story. The plan as seen in the cut will at once give an impression of the originality and good taste observed in the form of the structure. Verandas heavily built are a feature of the side and rear of the building. The observatory is 14 feet square and rises 18 feet above the roof, culminating in a sharp cone. Around this at the eaves is a handsome iron railing. The inside of the dwelling is superbly finished in black walnut and ash, ten inches in architrave and twelve inches in basis at all the openings. The main stairway is a curb string running from the rear of the hall to second floor with well rail around it supported by solid bronze brackets. It is one of the hand- somest and costliest stairways in the city. On the first floor are the grand parlors, dining room, family sit eping room, kitchen, etc. The second floor is divided into five large cham- bers with closets, bath rooms, etc., to each. On the third floor are four chambers and a dancing hall 18x40 feet. All the ceilings are paneled with heavy cornices, finished with gilt mouldings. All the door and window trimmings are in solid bronze. The barn corresponds with the house in shape and finish. The improvements estimated at $55,C0O, and the 100 foot lot at $250, per foot, make Mr. Potter's homestead worth $80,000. • BACHELDER BUILDING. ( See\illustration, page'i%46.j This. structure, recently completed, is situated at the southeast corner of Pandolph and Clark streets. It was erected for G. L. Batcheldtr, John Whiting and John H.. Kedzie, after plans by J. H. Edbrooke, architect. Its fronts are composed of iron and manufactured stone from a prominent firm in this city. The building is designed for office purposes, is a base- ment and four stories high, with full Mansard story, and presents, as will be seen by the illus- tration, a very handsome exterior. It is intended to be strictly fire-proof. All the frame work of the Mansard roof is of iron, covered with heavy wire cloth, which is plastered with cement mortar and covered with slate wired on with copper wire. The basement and first floor, and all the doorways, cornices, etc., are entirely of iron. The interior arrangements are most excellent in design and in the character of the finish. The main entrance at the corner is a beautiful feature of the block. The massive stone steps are railed with heavy silver plated bars surmounted by splendid pedestal lamps. The entrance is between Corin- thian columns in relief, through exquisitely carved doors. Some of the plates in the windows are seven feet high by nine feet wide. Vaults are provided throughout the building, and spa- cious halls lead by the doors of all the rooms. The building cost $90,000. THE COLEHOUR BUILDING. ( See illustration, page 252^. This block stands just east of the Chamber of Commerce, from which it is separated only by a paved court. It is in every way worthy of its location near that splendid structure. It has a frontage on Washington street, of 90 feet, and extends back 182 feet to the alley. The archi- tecture is Renaissance. The fronts of the basement are in Bnena Vista sandstone, very mas- sive, and the four other stories in Columbia sandstone. It is strictly a banking and office building, being, with the exception of a hall in the rear portion 60 x 108 feet with 40 feet to ceiling, arranged entirely for these purposes from foundation to roof. There are four large banking offices on the basement and first floors. The offices are of different sizes, to be elegantly and expensively finished in hard wood. Vaults, accessible to all the rooms, run from the basement to the fourth floor. Spacious halls extend at right angles through the building. At their intersection will be a commodious elevator. The structure will bring more 260 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. rent per square foot than any other in 'the city on account of its having the best location. There is nothing gaudy or showy in its construction ; but its symmetrical proportions and massive plan will make it all the more pleasing and desirable, and in some degree like the beautiful facades of its next neighbor. It will have cost, when completed, $160,000. FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. ( See illustration, page %5Z. ) . This handsome edifice stands at the corner of West Washington and Ann streets. It cost to build it $160,000, and its reconstruction on the old plan, after it was burned last winter, has caused a large additional outlay, as everything but the walls went down in the flames. It is built in the form of a cross, of heavy hewn stone. The porches over the various entrances are built low, in strictly Gothic style. It is arranged inside into auditorium, galleries, parlors, choir and pastors rooms, etc., after the most modern plans of church architecture, the plan being purely amphitheatrical. RESIDENCE OF MR. S. J. WALKER. {See illustration, page 256.) At the southwest corner of Jackson street and Ashland avenue is located the very large and handsome brick mansion of S. J. Walker, the man who has chiefly made that splendid thoroughfare. The lot on which the house stands is 262 feet front upon the avenue, and the grounds are arranged with a taste and beauty unexcelled anywhere. The whole surface around the mansion is covered with a fine thrifty growth of trees and shrubbery, adorued with fine relic monuments, rustic seats, flower vases, and beds and lawns, surrounded by a hand- some stone fence, bordering which is a pretty row of young trees. The house has a spacious veranda in front, a smaller porch at the south side, and a fine bay window wedged between two short porches on the north side. Its arrangement and furnishing are elegant and fashion- able. The property is worth $90,000. CHICAGO NEWSPAPERS. The Organs and Moulders of Public Opinion in the Northwest — From what Little Acorns Great Journalistic Oak's have Grown — Plain Histories of the Chicago " Tribune," " Times," " Inter-Ocean," " Staats Zeitung," "Journal," " Post," and " Mail." IT has been thought de sirable, by the publisher of this book, to add to the foregoing matter a sketch of the histories of the daily- journals of Chicago, accompanied by engravings of the buildings oc- cupied and in the case of the " Times," " Tribune," " Inter-Ocean," " Staats Zeitung," and " Journal," owned by the proprietors of those concerns. This the author has done with diffidence, the time at his command at this stage of the work being altogether inadequate to do justice to the subject. This difficulty has been got over by giving the bare, plain incidents of the history of each newspaper, with scarcely any alteration from the notes which were kindly furnished from each journalistic head-quarters. The Tribune. — The first number of the " Chicago Daily Tribune " was printed Thursday, July ioth, 1847. It began its existence in the third story of a building on the corner of Lake and LaSalle streets, one room doing duty as counting room, editorial sanctum and printing office. Its originators were James Kelly, afterwards a leather dealer in this city, John E. Wheeler, and J. K. C. Forrest. Mr. Kelly was then the owner of a weekly literary paper, called the Gem of the Prairie, and it was his idea to publish a daily from which he could make up his weekly. The name of Tribune was suggested by Mr. Forrest and agreed to by Mr. Wheeler, who had been on the New York paper of the same name. The first edition issued num- bered four hundred copies, worked off on a Washington hand-press, one of the proprietors being pressman. Politically, it was inde- pendent, but with Free Soil proclivities. July 24th, Mr. Kelly, owing to sickness, severed his connection with the paper, and sold out to Thomas A. Stewart, who remained in for seven years. September 27th, Mr. Forrest dissolved his con "Chicago Tribune" Building. NEWSPAPERS OF CHICAGO. 263 nection, and Messrs. Wheeler & Stewart remained proprietors, the former being the editor. August 23d, 1848, John L. Scripps purchased a third interest in the concern, and the firm name was changed to Wheeler, Stewart & Scripps. May 12th, 1849, the Tribune office was for the first time destroyed by fire, but publication was resumed on the 14th, over a grocery store, then situated on the northeast corner of Clark and Randolph streets. June 4th, it removed to the northwest corner of Lake and Clark streets ; and in May, 1850, it removed to the second floor of the old Masonic Building, No. 173 Lake street. The following month the paper was enlarged, and its dimensions were 26 by 40. At this time the daily circulation was 1,120. July 1st, 185 1, Mr. John E. Wheeler withdrew, after disposing of his interest to Thomas J. Waite, who assumed the business manage- ment of the concern. The following June, Mr. Scripps sold his in- terest to a number of leading Whigs, acting in behalf of General William Duane Wilson, afterwards of Iowa. Mr. Wilson became editor, and the paper, previously Free Soil, supported General Scott for president. Mr. Waite was the publisher, and the firm was named Waite & Co. At this time the paper was enlarged to be 28 by 44, and was published in the morning instead of the afternoon. Mr. Waite died August 26th, 1852, and the following October, Mr. Henry Fowler purchased the interest of his (Waite's) heirs, and became publisher and associate editor. March 23d, 1853, General Wilson sold out his interest to Henry Fowler & Co., the means being supplied by Timothy Wright and General J. D. Webster, who were silent partners. January 1st, 1855, the paper was still further enlarged, being 31 by 50 inches. June 18th of that year, Timothy Wright assumed a general partnership, and Joseph Medill, of Cleveland, purchased an interest, the firm becoming Wright, Medill & Co. At this time, the size was reduced to 30 by 46 inches. T. A. Stewart sold out his interest to his associates, July 21st, 1855. September 23d, Dr. C. H. Ray and J. C. Vaughan were announced as editors, and Mr. Alfred Cowles was taken into the firm ; the pro- prietors were then Timothy Wright, J. D. Webster, Dr. Ray, Joseph Medill, John C. Vaughan and Alfred Cowles. March 26th, 1857, Mr. Vaughan withdrew, and the title of the firm became Ray, Medill & Co., which it remained until July 1st, 1858, when the Tribune and Democratic Press were consolidated. The Democratic Press was first issued September 16th, 1852, by 264 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. John L. Scripps and William Bross, as a strictly Democratic paper. It was published at No. 45 S. Clark street. After the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska bill, it left the party to which it had belonged. September, 1854, Barton M. Spears purchased an interest in the paper. After the consolidation, the proprietors were Messrs. Ray, Medill, Cowles, Scripps, Bross and Spears. The title of the paper became the Press 6° Tribune, and it was published at No. 45 Clark street. No- vember 8th, 1858, the paper became financially embarrassed, but ob- ' tained an extension from its creditors. At this time, Mr. Spears left the firm. Mr. Cowles assumed charge of the finances of the concern, and soon after the office was removed to the old location at 9 No. 51 Clark street. October 25th, 1861, the word "Press" was dropped out, and the title remained simply " Chicago Tribune." During the winter of 1861, the Tribune Company was incorporated by the Legislature, with a capital of $200,000, and William H. Rand became one of the stockholders. In November, 1863, Dr. Ray [re- tired, and Joseph Medill became editorial superintendent. In 1866 Mr. Medill resigned the editorship, and Horace White, purchasing an interest in the paper, became editorial superintendent, a position he has since retained. In March, 1870, Mr. Rand sold out, and the chief stockholders at the present time are Messrs. Cowles, White, Bross and Medill. The Tribune had long outgrown the dark and inconvenient quar- ters on Clark street, where it had remained for so many years, and finally, on the 30th of April, 1869, it removed to the new building on the southeast corner of Madison and Dearborn streets. This edifice, which was looked upon as one of the first really fire-proof structures erected in Chicago, was built of Joliet marble, was four stories in height, exclusive of the basement, and cost $225,000. It occupied the same ground as its successor, fronting 72 feet on Dear- born and 121 on Madison. The paper, which had in 1847 been printed on a hand-press, had so increased in size and circulation that upon removing to the new building it was found necessary to pur- chase a second eight-cylinder Hoe press, the first having been bought in 1864. The fire of 187 1 drove the Tribune from these comfortable quar- ters. The day afterwards, however, temporary quarters were secured at No. 15 South Canal street, and the publication of the paper was re- sumed there. For the first day it published only a half-sheet, but NEWSPAPERS OF CHICAGO. 265 the size was increased as paper and press facilities could be secured. October 9th, 1872, the day of the anniversary of the fire, the Tribune returned to its present abode at the corner of Dearborn and Madison streets, where a new building had been erected at a cost of $250,000, with the intention of making it absolutely fire-proof. It is five stories in height, exclusive of the basement, and is built of Lake Superior sandstone. At the time of removing from Canal street, the Tribune was changed to an eight-page paper. In i860 and 1864 the Tribune supported Mr. Lincoln, and in 1868 General Grant ; while last year it renounced its party allegiance, be- came an independent paper, and supported Mr. Greeley for president. As a general newspaper, the Tribune has few equals. The Philadel- phia Press, in remarking upon a recent issue, stated editorially that " The Chicago Tribune, of the day mentioned, in all its features, news, editorial, literary and local, was probably the best paper ever issued from the American press." There are two parties to this question, it being the habit of many Chicagoans to prefer the " Times," or even some other of the local dailies, as a medium of news and of thoroughly independent edito- rial opinion. All, however, concede to the " Tribune " great breadth of influence and great wealth — its annual income being usually $200,000 or upward, which is ten per cent, on a valuation of a mil- lion and a half dollars. The Times. — The history of the "Chicago Times" has been in consonance with its well known character as an aggressive, progres- sive, combative, incisive, active journal, with a passion for news, and a knack of getting it which enabled " The Times " to snap its fingers'at the opinions of Mrs. Grundy, and especially so when Mrs. G.'s only title to enforce her voice was a place on the managing committee of some political party. In other words, the history of "The Times " up to about 1863, when Gen. Burnside suppressed a few issues of it for alleged disloyalty, and immediately after which it entered upon a new career of success, has been a history of strife and buffetings and manifold vicissitudes. " The Times," or rather the paper out of which it grew, had its origin in June, 1854, in the necessities of the Douglas, or Missouri, Compromise Repeal party, for an organ in Chicago, the two Demo- cratic dailies in the city having both taken the free-soil chute. The paper, as founded, consisted of the debris of " The Courant," a little evening paper printed by Daniel Cameron for Duane Wilson, " Chicago Times " Building. NEWSPAPERS OF CHICAGO. 267 and virtually owned by Cameron when settlement day came around. The good will and material of this concern were bought by Isaac Cook, then a noted political fugler, and partisan of the " Little Giant," and one Edward I. Patterson, who was to be the fulminator of editorial thunder of the concern. His thunder proved of poor quality, however, and James W. Sheahan (now writing on " The Tribune ") was imported from Washington, on Douglas' recommenda- tion, to be the editor. 'jThe proprietorial firm then became Cook, Cameron & Sheahan. Up to the time of Sheahan's arrival, which happened a few weeks after the inception of the enterprise, the new organ had been called " Young America." It was baptized thus in honor of a gorgeous and widely famous whisky-shop, owned by Cook, and standing on Lake street, opposite the Tremont House. This festive name was thrown aside on the installment of Sheahan as editor, and " The Times ' adopted as the future title of the paper. In the spring of 1855, the Know Nothing excitement, which "The Times " warred against, culminated in Chicago in the Lager Beer Riots, in which the foreign element was the aggressive party. At the expiration of the term of the mayor then holding, Mr. Cook's candidate (before the caucus was held) was Morgan L. Keith, who represented the " bummer " element. Mr. Sheahan, inspired by Douglas, opposed such a nomination, and favored Thomas Dyer, who was ultimately elected. This feud went so far as to result in the attempted induction, by Cook, of an editor in Sheahan's place — a Col. R. B. Carpenter, a rabid Southern fire-eater, who afterwards figured as a Secessionist. Of course this "house divided against itself" could not stand without the withdrawal of one of the belligerent parties. The one to withdraw was Cook, whose interest the other partners, with the assistance of Col. Hamilton, then bought out. Now commences a period in the history of this newspaper which has nothing in common with that which precedes it except the bare name "Times." In June, 1861, the concern was purchased by its present sole proprietor, Mr. Wilbur F. Storey, under whom it has achieved its present enormous circulation, hardly excelled by that of the best of the great New York dailies, and its corresponding power and the magnitude of its material outfit. Since the date mentioned the paper has been edited, managed, and (with the slight exceptions noted below) owned solely by Mr. Storey, who has actively directed 268 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. to a degree otherwise unknown in the history of great metropolitan dailies, all the details, financial, editorial and mechanical, of his im- mense establishment. Mr. Storey came from Michigan. He found " The Times " in the condition above noted — a small folio sheet, with a most wretched outfit, and a circulation not over 3,000. It now has a building which, with its machinery and site, cost $500,000, and an increasing annual income which passed the figure of $100,000 some years ago. In the summer of 1862, Mr. Storey took in Mr. A. Worden as busi- ness manager, to whom he assigned a small interest. This relation continued until the 1st of July, 1865, when, having bought Worden out, the proprietor transferred the same interest to Mr. H. B. Chand- ler, who held it until the first of October, 1870. Since that date Mr. Storey has had no partner. The Inter-Ocean. — The " Inter-Ocean " is little more than a year and a half old, its first number having been issued on the 25th day of March, 1872. It was founded on the ruins of the " Republican," a journal which passed through various vicissitudes of ill-fortune until its sole remaining possession of any marketable value was its associated press franchise. This was purchased by the Hon. J. Young Scammon, and the "Inter-Ocean," with the " Republican " subscription list of less than two hundred, made its first appearance. The cause assigned by the proprietor for the establishment of the " Inter-Ocean " was the defection of the Chicago "Tribune" from the principles and organization of the Republican party. It is needless to say, therefore, that the " Inter-Ocean " is a Republican paper. The time was fortunate to the enterprise. There was throughout the Northwest a decided want of a stauncE Republican organ, and the " Inter-Ocean " was heartily welcomed ; its circulation and business rapidly increased, and soon outran the most sanguine anticipations of its friends. On the 20th of September, the circula- tion of the " Inter-Ocean " had reached 20,000. The then press facil- ities were taxed to the utmost, and a new eight cylinder Hoe press was ordered. On the 18th of November, the form of the paper was changed from a thirty-two column folio with supplement, to a forty column sheet — its present form. The increase of the size of the "Inter-Ocean " gave a new impetus to its circulation and business, and the growth of both was larger after the close of the political campaign of 1872 than during its pendency. The old publication office — 16 Congress street — was inconvenient, and crowded by NEWSPAPERS OF CHICAGO. 269 this increase of business ; and, in April,. 1873, it was removed to the marble front building, corner of Lake and Clark streets. We present herewith an engraving of the building. In September, 1872, the " Inter-Ocean," previously owned and controlled entirely by Mr. Scammon, was incorporated and organ- " Inter -Ocean" Building. ized as a stock company; and, on the 17th of March last, the Hon. F. W. Palmer, of Des Moines, Iowa, a journalist of experience, and a member of Congress, assumed an interest in the paper, and be- came actively identified with its management. Twenty men only were required to write the editorials, collect the news, set the type, print, fold, and mail the early issues of the " Inter-Ocean ; "' in less than a year one hundred and seventy-one persons were directly employed in the same service, not to mention " Illinois Staats Zeitung ' Building. NEWSPAPERS OF CHICAGO. 27 I the scores of special and regular correspondents whose labor is found in its columns in the form of telegrams and letters from all parts of the world. It would be an injustice to Mr. E. W. Halford, directly in charge of the editorial department of the " Inter-Ocean " during the period treated above, and to Mr. Wm. Penn Nixon, the business mana- ger, not to accord to them a large share of credit for the growth and prosperity of the enterprise inaugurated by Mr. Scammon, and prosecuted with energy and skill by Mr. Palmer. The Illinois Staats Zeitidng. — The " Illinois Staats Zeitung " is now in the twenty-fifth year of its existence, has a large city circulation, and publishes a literary Sunday paper, " The Western ; " also a week-day weekly. The " Staats Zeitung "is a fair exponent of the growth of the City of Chicago, especially the German-American element. It appeared at first as a weekly, 8xio inches in size. The editor in chief had to fill the duties of reporter, advertising agent, printer and carrier as well. The circulation at that time was about 200. There is nothing in the first ten years of its existence that claims more than passing notice. No extraordinary event occurred. The number of subscribers increased, as immigration increased, and by degrees the paper changed to a tri- weekly, and after that to a daily. With tl\e ascension of the Republican party to power, the paper stepped into the political arena. From that day to the present time it 'has had its say in the politics of City, State and Nation. A very warm and hearty exponent of the principles of the Republican party even when that party was in its infancy, it helped to secure the vic- tory to anti-slavery principles. Established then on a basis which secured to it public recognition as an important factor in the shap- ing of public life, it secured for itself the best attainable talent in the country, and is recognized to-day as the leading and most ably edited German paper of the United States. With Mr. A. C. Hesing, as Chairman of the Board of Directors, Herman Raster and Wm. Rapp as editors, and C. F. Pietzsch as the financial manager, the paper not only overcame the drawbacks of the great fire, but immediately entered upon a career of further progress. The company has erected a splendid seven story and basement stone front building at the northeast corner of Washington street and Fifth avenue. The building is entirely (with the exception of a few offices) given over to the necessities of a first-class printing estab- "Chicago Evening Journal" Building. NEWSPAPERS OF CHICAGO. 273 lishment. The machinery in the basement includes a double Bullock press — the largest in use in the country. The job department em- ploys never less than sixty people. The book-binding department, although recently established, is turning out work very fast. The " Staats Zeitung," in all its branches, gives- employment to about 200 people, mostly heads of families, and the larger number of whom have been connected with the paper for years. The cost of the pres- ent building, with its site and machinery, etc., is $250,000. The Evening Journal. — The "Evening Journal " is the oldest of the daily newspapers now published in Chicago. It was established thirty years ago, and has been published continuously ever since — first as a Whig paper, and subsequently as a Republican paper. Mr. Charles L. Wilson, one of its original proprietors, is its proprietor and publisher now. Before the great fire, the " Journal " office was on Dearborn street,, opposite the old Tremont House. The great fire consumed its office and all its contents. Not frightened by that disaster, its proprietor at once established it in temporary quarters on the West Side, and it did not miss a single day's issue. He immediately made arrange- ments for the erection of a new edifice for the permanent accommo- dation of the " Journal " office, on the business center of the South Side. Purchasing a site on Dearborn street, between Madison and Monroe streets, he contracted for a substantial new stone building, which was finished and occupied by the " Journal " in April, 1873, and is thus now occupied "for good." The edifice is one of the most imposing, substantial, and conveniently arranged in the city, and nearly all of it is devoted to the uses of the " Journal " and its Job Printing Office. The engraving herewith given is a very fair representation of the building. The " Journal " is not only the oldest, but one of the most care- fully and ably edited and most steady-going papers in the Northwest,, enjoying on that account a steady and profitable patronage. The Evening Tost — The first number of the " Evening Post," Pigott & Fowler, proprietors, saw the light on September 4, 1865, in a dingy basement on Randolph street, in the front part of which was- located the business office, and in the rear the editorial, the news, and the press departments, jumbled together in one confused mass. The effective force of the paper then consisted of one manager, Mr. Wm. Pigott, one editor, Mr. Stanley G. Fowler, one city reporter,. 18 274 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. thirteen compositors, one pressman, and one feeder. The capacity of the press was little more than one thousand an hour, and the size of the paper comparing favorably with a foolscap sheet. It was here that Mr. D. Blakely, tnen Secretary of State of Minnesota, and a life-long newspaper man, first discovered, while on a business visit to Chicago, the bright and saucy sheet with which he has since betn continuously associated ; and, almost before he was aware of the importance of the change he was making, he had sold his printing establishment in Minnesota, resigned his connection with the State government, and become, in connection with Major C. H. Blakely, a younger brother, the owner of the " Post." Arrangements were im- mediately perfected for the enlargement of the paper, a new press having been obtained for this purpose. Mr. D. Blakely became, at this time, its editor, Mr. C. H. Blakely its business manager, and from a position of conservatism in politics it was changed, (the de- fection of Andrew Johnson being the occasion,) into an independent, but radical and outspoken Republican newspaper. From this time the growth and prosperity of the paper was constant and marked. To supply the requisites of its increased circulation, the capacious basement, first and second floor of the building, No. 151 Dearborn street was secured, and in this building a Hoe press capable of strik- ing off four thousand impressions per hour was placed in position. Shortly after this change was effected, the lamented Gen. Hasbrouck Davis became associated with the paper, but after a brief experience he retired. It was at this time that the property of the paper was merged into a corporation, of which Mr. D. Blakely became, and has since con- tinued, the President, and Mr. C. H. Blakely was chosen the Secre- tary and Treasurer. It was at this time, also, that Dr. Chas. H. Ray, generally acknowledged to be the most ready and brilliant 'writer ever connected with the Northwestern press, became associ- ated with Mr. Blakely in the editorial management of the paper. -In the summer of 1869, the "Post " moved into the building No. 104 and 106 Madison street. Mr. W. H. Schuyler at this time purchased rthe interest of Mr. C. H. Blakely in the company, the latter from this time devoting his entire attention to the job department of the concern. Mr. Schuyler managed the business with success and in- dustry for upward of a year, when he was induced to part with his interest to the McMullen Brothers, the eldest of whom, Mr. J. B. Mc- NEWSPAPERS OF CHICAGO. 275 Mullen, became the business manager, continuing therein until after the fire. Meanwhile, however, Dr. Ray had died, greatly lamented by his associates and the profession. Opportunely, but most unexpectedly, and notwithstanding that the whole business district and one whole residence division of the city were in ashes, the demand for newspa- pers, and the rush of advertising business just after the great fire of 187 1, was greater than ever before in Chicago. Encouraged by this result, the proprietors of thfe " Post " at once made arrangements for a more complete and perfect printing equipment than had ever be- fore been possessed by any evening newspaper. A Bullock perfecting press, capable of printing 24,000 impressions per hour, was ordered from Philadelphia, a temporary building was immediately erected on the lake shore, and in an inconceivably short space of time " The Evening Post " found itself in better-condition than ever before for supplying the voracious appetite of the public for news. It was while in this temporary location that Mr. Blakely purchased from the McMullen Brothers the minority of the stock held or represented by them, paying therefor the valuation of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the whole concern, and passing into their hands sixty-five thousand dollars in cash at a single payment. The friends who enabled him to perfect this arrangement have since come for- ward and taken the stock represented by this transfer, the debt of the paper has been entirely paid off, and established in its new quar- ters on Dearborn street. The "Post " is in a situation to meet the panic with serenity and calmness, and to enter upon the brightest and most prosperous period of its usefulness and power. Shortly after the retirement of the McMullens, Mr. L. B. Colby entered upon the discharge of his duties as Business Manager, which position he still holds. The " Post " now occupies the premises, No. 86 and 88 Dearborn street, consisting of five stories and basement, 40 by 100 feet in dimensions. The Evening Mail: — The "Evening Mail " was first published on the 1 8th of August, 1870, the originators being S. S. Schoff, C. B. Langley, and H. R. Hobart. It was started as the first two-cent daily paper in the West, and the only paper in Chicago receiving its dispatches outside the Associated Press, which had until then held, as was supposed, such a monopoly of the news of the world as would forever prevent the establishment of any rival dailies in Chicago. 276 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The " Mail " was at first only six columns in width, and was printed for a few weeks on a Taylor drum -cylinder press, in the upper story of No. 86 Dearborn street. The period of its birth was signalized by the early events in the Franco-Prussian war, and so great was the public demand for the telegraphic news that the rush of newsboys for the little sheet was good from its first issue, and at once passed far beyond the ability of the press to supply. As the prospects of the paper warranted an expansion, it was decided to organize a stock company with a capital of $50,000, and Mr. Hobart proceeded to place some of this with our business men. Among those who liberally and kindly extended aid to this then struggling enterprise, and thus enabled it to become surely estab- lished, should be named Messrs. David A. Gage, George M. Pullman, C. B. Farwell, Bowen Brothers, S. M. Nickerson, the Northwestern Paper Company, Ira Holmes, and T. S. McClelland. With one or two ex- ceptions, all of these gentlemen long since sold back their stock to the conductors of the paper, but they held it long enough to help it. Mr. E. H. Talbott, of the Belvidere Northwestern, became one of the stockholders and the business manager of the paper when the company was organized, and has been connected with it until very recently. In May, 1873, the "Mail" removed to its present location, 123 Fifth avenue. In February, 1873, Mr. Hobart, then managing editor, sold out his interest in the " Mail " to Mr. W. M. Taylor, who had just resigned the position of Clerk of the Supreme Court of the State of Illinois ; : and the directors of the paper are now, M. W. Taylor, General Editor and Business Manager, and O. A. Wil- lard, Managing Editor. Part IV. STATISTICS. CENSUS STATISTICS. 279 TABLE I. Population of Chicago at Twenty-one Different Periods of its Development ; zuitk List of A/ayors since the Incorporation of the City. MAYORS. L W. B. Ogden Alex. Loyd August Garrett. . August Garrett .. J. P. Chapiu J. Curtiss . J. H. Woodwort.h J. H. Woodworth J. Curtiss C. M. Gray L. D. Boone Thomas Dyer John Wentworth F. C. Sherman F. C. Sherman John B. Rice John B. Rice John B. Rice R. B. Mason Joseph Medill- .. Joseph Medill... July, IS"? 1 !. July. 1840. July, 1843, July, 1845. Sept., 1846. Oct., 1847. Sept., 1848. Aug., 1849. Aug., 1850. Dec, 1853. June, 1855. Aug., 1856. Aug., 1860. Oct., 1862. Oct., 1864. Oct., 1865. Oct., 1866. Oct., 186S. Aug., 1870. Oct., 1872. Sept., 1873. MODE OF ENUMERATION. POPU- LATION. City census 4,170 U. S. census 4,479 City census 7,580 [State census 12,088 ICity census 14,169 City census 16.859 'City census 20,023 iCity census 23,047 jU. S. census 29,963 City census 59,130 State census 80.000 City census 84,113 U.S. census 109,206 City census 138,186 City census 160,353 State census 178,492 jCity census. 200,418 1 City census 252.054 ICity census 306,605 City census 367.396 Estimated 425,000 TABLE II. Population by Geographical Divisions, According to School Censuses, 1853 to 1S72 YEAR. December, 1853 August 1, 1856 . October 1, 1862. October 1, 18(54. October 1, 1866 . October 1, 1868. August 1, 1870. October 1, 1872. SOUTH DIVISION. 26,952 30.339 45.470 56,955 58,755 71,073 86,471 88,496 WEST DIVISION. 14,679 28,250 57,193 73,475 90,739 118,435 149,780 214,344 NORTH DIVISION. 17,859 25,524 35,523 38,923 50,924 62,546 70,354 64,556 TOTAL CITY. 59,130 84,113 138,186 169,353 200,418 292,054 306,605 367,396 The increase in eighteen years and ten months has been: In the South Division, 232^ per cent.; West Division. 1,360 per cent. ; North Division, 261% per cent.; whole city, 521 =/, per cent. According to the present census there are 244 persons between 12 and 21 years of age who are unable to either read or write. In the private schools there are 14,5S1 scholars. 28o CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. 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I T-l T-l T-l T-H T-l 1—1 CM I oo T-l O CD CO CO' CD T-l 00 soc* ■ coo < oo ■7DTJI t-C55 CDtH 00 CD O CD m< oo "O ^o sdo t-O ^ff^O r^jTc© p* 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I f I I I I I I I I • I I I • I I I I I I I I I I I I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 1 I I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I i I t r t i ■ i i i i i i i i i i i I i i i I I I * fflOHlSW^lOfflb-OOroOHWM^lOtCl-OOCBOHtSMTtilOlOt-QOCSOrtSlW coT^TtiTji-rji'^T^^rfTjH-fioinininioinininioioocDcDooocDcDcDcDi-^^t- COCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOOOOOCOCOCOCOCOOOOOCOOOCOCOCOOO ITlHrtTlHHHTlTlHTlHriHHTlTlHTlrtHTlrtTlTlHTlTlTlHTlTlHrtT-l * 1873 carefully estimated on the best attainable data. The figures in the assessment rolls, notwithstanding recent and more stringent legislation, are not believed to approach nearer than TO per cent, of just commercial value of property subject to taxation for city purposes, leaving of course all untaxable property to be added for an aggregate of Chicago's wealth. The Bonded Debt of Chicago on the 1st of July, 1873, was $13,546,000, but estimates and ap- propriations for repairing the ravages of the fire, for an additional Lake Tunnel for water supply, for elevating the street grade over large districts, and for other exigent objects, exceed the whole amount and necessitate a tax levy nearly quadruple the preceding year's levy, and at the rate of five per cent., an assessment "more than double any previous rate, and never likely again to be requisite. Note. — From 1851 to 1862, inclusive, a Lamp Tax of half a mill to two mills was levied on certain portions of the city, and is included in the above Total Tax, RECEIPTS AND SHIPMENTS. 28l TABLE IV. Showing the Amounts of the Commodities A T amed, Received and Shipped at Chicago for the first 9 months of 1872 and 1873. EECEIPTS. Flour, bbls Whi, at, bushels Coru, " Oats, " Rye, " Barley, " Seeds, lbs. 1 Broom Corn, lbs. Cured Meats, lbs Beef, bbls Pork, bbls Lard, lbs Tallow, lbs Butter, lbs. Drt ssed Hogs, number Live Hogs, number Cattle, number Sheep, number Hides, lbs High wines, bbls. .. Wool, lbs Lumber, M Shingles, M. Lath, M Salt, bbls. Jan. 1 to Sept. 28, 1872. 987,222 6,942,811 38,073,808 9,831,979 621,607 2,024,500 29,907,878 4,531,953 23,730,013 7,982 121,812 15,587,013 4,871,221 5,089,717 199,891 2,138,245 519,353 233,112 24,268,093 65,954 19,795,227 914,414 418,170 90,639 398,735 Jan. 1 to Sept. 27, 1873. 1,498,628 15,777,933 31,862,693 12,788,708 845,046 2,162,933 35,672,415 5,750,332 29,293,176 1,313 19,102 14,564,282 5,420,610 14,673,021 174,329 2,743,879 819,098 228,842 23,260,727 53,006 27,454,816 868,257 391,649 68,202 4?4,359 Jan. 1 to Dec. 28, 1873. 1,511,637 12,640,084 44,610,469 12,878,862 952,271 4,696,510 42,806,884 8,599,288 35,032,670 13,752 125,151 18,274,411 6,369,659 10,067,948 225,103 3,231,811 680,795 308,307 34,184,069 85,466 27,328,535 1,205,826 531,029 121,516 364,473 SHIPMENTS. Flour, bbls Wheat, bushels Corn, " : Oats, " Rye, " Barley, " Seeds, lbs. Broom Corn, lbs Cured Meats, lbs. Beef, bbls Pork, bbls. Lard, lbs Tallow, lbs. Butter, lbs. Dressed Hogs, number Live Hogs, number Cattle, number Sheep, number Hides, lbs Highwines, bbls Woo], lbs Lumber, M Shingles, M Lath, M Salt, lbs . Jan. 1 to Sept. 28, 1872. 845,301 7,050,439 38,961,357 9,221,872 566,399 1,726,869 15,454,635 2,038,618 164,038,215 15,103 82,096 55.835,139 3,395,204 7,044,849 104,962 1,412,883 407,190 108,325 19,683,439 75,032 18,978,668 304,027 331,127 38,583 363,042 Jan. 1 to Sept. Jan. 1 to Dec 27, 1873. 1,524,375 14,564,284 26,419,590 11,743,066 693,918 1,637,778 20,110,078 5,056,164 229,511,413 21,117 130,776 62,435,493 7,167,450 7,381,227 139,088 1,674,484 444,770 93,545 22,118,149 64,924 25,793,999 427,988 303,406 40,173 414,359 28, 1873. 1,302,69S 12,092,125 46,747,506 12,062,311 765,833. 4,760,743 22,922,106 3,624,544 718,820,474 32,034 195,479 81,497,713 5,746,947 9,299,848 128,199 1,821,526 478,462 130,367 29,141,282 104,928 25,715,119 420,751 433,766 48,806 500,384 282 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. «2 4 3 V <-> ^ » 5s ^ cc-n c^ 8 k ^ J§ § ^ > ^ O Kh 1 tv k CO H i— i PA 5 H O < •nts Thi rchandi Si So 2 •■s- s ^ ^ ^5 <3 •jsqum S[ 's9i.outqS OOOOO OHHOOOOOOOOO 10 OOO >C5 OOOOO OOiOlOiOOOOKMSOlOOOOOOi-iOlOlSt-OOCOlM £ct-MJ)iOt-lfl(S P^** O O OOO00 t^COff* (T^tH OOO xr<__ co t-"co 00" co i-TiH ^"o"io t- h| tcco -# cft-^io os -hTo hioh Tf IO lO Ol » B ffl S ■"l" !" W '- O' S lO lO ~ S C. 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W CDCJlOO -c< tb.com p< C»jOpD OOT OO oosoo oosoo ^p CD p • CD M-C0 jbpsjO co'co o wV-oabVosb OOib-to^^-a^^rf iOO OS _CD jO O «0 j- 1 CO _0 j-3 Ol jb. ooogootooooto OOO^OCDOOCDOOCH CO p" ^!p OOQ o 1-^ 1-L CO -5 -3 CD -3 CO OS CD lb.! OOKO 1— k ' to CO coos O* 1 CD O COO 01 Ojb. brlp oE- CO —3 CO OS OS I- 1 -3 Or OS CO to tb. CO lb- CO CCOCUMO CO to 00 br'tb. 00 00 HjhJ o p P £- P o £3 P O m ct- p-p CD Ti Coo ^ f) fO r a ^>k 0a ^>- c5 ^ J fc> fel H ^1 ft H ^ ^ ''-v, ft, > § \ r ft. **4 ' w ^ "^ ^ X ^ f-< ^a Q> «>k <*4 «s . *H. ^* Ss^ '-3 a ^ ^ to M ■^ CO b5 8- ,000; now worth about $5,000, though much property in that locality has advanced but little in the period named. Tne sale referred to must have been a sacrifice. BY CHACE & A BELL. A twenty -acre tract in Hyde Park near Sixty-seventh street was purchased a few years ago for $75 per acre; last year an offer of $1,500 was refused. Another tract of eighty acres near Sixtieth street was purchased less than ten years ago at $150 per acre. It is now held at from $4,000 to $ ;,i'00 per acre. I11 1861 a tract of sixty acres on Stony Island avenue, near Seventy-first street, was pur- chased for $5,150. Within three months of the day of purchase, forty acres of this tract was sold for $5,000. The remaining twenty acres are held at $2,500 each; at which figure sales have been made in the tract just opposite. A tract of forty acres lying near the Goodrich Steamboat company's property, in sections 31, 38, 15, purchased last year at $750 per acre, has since been sold at $1,250 per acre. Twenty acres between Seventieth and Seventy-first streets, running east on Stony Island avenue, was purchased in 1868 for $7,500. In 1870 it was sold to the ParksL,e Homestead Association for $ j2,500. Tne south eighty acres of the southeast quarter of sections 26, 38, 14, was sold, in 1867, at $350 per acre. Within a year, five acre blocks have been sold at $2,500 per acre; and one block fronting on Stony Island avenue at $3,000 per acre. An undivided one-ihir,i inteieot in this land was sold in 1868 for $7,000. Tne same is now worth $2,500 per acre. Property on South Park avenue, which five years ago was worth le?s than $1,000 per acre, now realizes $200 per front foot. Two lots bought in 1867 for $1,750 cash, were sold in 1869 for $1,000. In 1868 a lot 160 feet frontage on Oak street was purchased at $10 per foot. The same property was sold during the present year at $iU0 per foot. BY W. D. KERFOOT. Twenty acres in block 25 o.* section 33, 39, 14, sold in 1864 at $250 per acre. Subsequently the land was subdivided and sold out in lois at the rate of $5,000 per acre. Sixty acr.s on Archer road, at the corner of Reuben street, was sold in 1870 for $10,000. After subdivision, the property retailed for $200,000 in total. Mr. SLintsou purchased the tract in 1848 of the Canal Trustees, for $2.50 p^r acre. The Hon. R. T. Merrick of Washington, loaned to G. W. Clarke $1,000 in 1856, and took in security forty acr^s in section 31, 38, 15. VVaen the sum was due, Clarke was unable to meet the payment, but offered to deed the laal to Merrick in lieu of the money. Merrick 3 o8 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. did n't want the land, but said he would take $500, and give receipt for entire bill. This Clarke could wot do, and Merrick took the land. Last October he refused an offer of $50,000 for it, and holds it now at $30,000. In 1861, eighty feet of the old "Opera House lot" was sold at $500 per foot — $24,000. Since the great" fire this lot was sold for $136,000. In 1864 the northwest corner of Clark and Madison streets, with a marble building, was sold for $35,000. Since the fire, and while the property was vacant, an offer of $50,000 has been refused. A lot 80x180 feet on Madison street, south front, west of Clark street, and formerly known as the Trinity Church lot, sold in 1861 for $12,000 cash. Five years afterwards the owner was offered $'30,000 for it aud refused. The property has recently been appraised by three experts for leasing at $160,000, and leased on that basis. The lot known as the "•Unitarian Church property," on the north side of Washington, betweeu Clark and Dearborn streets, and now occupied by the United States Express build- ing, was sold in 1861 for $-250 per foot. The Express Company paid, while the lot was vacant after the fire, $1,700 per foot for 40 feet of it. The lot at the southwest corner of State street and Calhoun Place, sold in 1863 for $250 per foot. Since the fire it brought $1,700 per foot. BY J. P. OLINGER. In 1868, 100 feet at the northwest corner of Michigan avenue and Twenty-sixth street sold on time payments for $4,000. In 1872 an offer oi $15,000 to the present owner was refused. Mr. Oliuger had tne Kendall block site, southwest corner Dearborn and Washington streets, for sale eight years ago, for $12,000, the lot being 40x90 feet. Pour years afterwards the property was neld at $2,000 per loot. Two years after that the property was asked for at $2,500 per foot, and refused. It is now held at $3,000 per foot. Mr. Kendall was offered, three mouths ago, for the land and block, $275,001) cash, by a New York capitalist, which he declined. Mr. dinger purchased between Fifty-second and Fifty-third streets, on Wabash avenue, in 18b7, two acres located on both sides for $2,122. The property is worth now $24,000. BY ULRICH & BOND. In February, 1873, a five-acre tract, being block 15 in G. W. Clarke's subdivision of the east half of the northwest quarter of section 25, 38, 14, sold for $1,800 per acre. Retailed most of it since in 25 foot lots, at fifty per cent, advance. Ten acres on the southwest corner of Stony Island avenue and Seventy-fifth street was purcliasei, in the spring of 1872, for $21,500. One acre of it sold lately for $:3,3O0, cash; and lots in it sell at from $500 to $700 eacn, 100x200 feet. in 1865, 250 feet west front on Hyde Park avenue, at the northeast corner of 1 if ty -first street, was sold at $3 per foot. It was since (in 1870) sold at $50 per foot. It is held, now at $i.uO per foot. BY C. W, PIERCE. Twenty acres lying in the northwest quarter of section 15, 38, 14, was sold in October, 1867, at $5o0 per acre. Subsequently subdivided and sold out at from $1,500 per acre, in 1868, to $iO,(X)J per acre, in 1873. It is now held at from $K) to $70 per foot. The land fronts on Mich- igan, Indiana, Prairie and Calumet avenues, ana is bounued north and south by Fifty-sixth and f iffy-ninth streets. In tne fall of 1868, ten acres lying between Thirty-ninth and Fortieth streets, and between Indiana and Prairie avenues, sola for $27,500. Lots in this tract have since sola at the rate of $18,000 per acre. In tne spring of 1869, ten acres adjoining the above on the south was bought for $50,000. Within six months thereafter lots in this tract were sold at $50 per foot, or at the rate of $t),000 per acre. Tne minimum figure asked now for lots is at the rate of $18,000 per acre. In 1868, the five acres lying between Tnirty-eighth and Thirty-ninth streets, and fronting on Prairie and. Indiana avenues, were sold for $Lu,000. Sold again, in 1869, for $35,000; ana again, in 1870, for $io,000. It is now worth over $125,000. In 1869, five acres lying in the northwest quarter of school section 16, 38, 14, bounded on the north and south by Fifty-sixth and Fifty-seventh streets, and fronting on Stewart avenue, were bought for $300 per acre, aud sold last spring at $2,250 per acre. Lots on this tract are now selling at the rate of $3,500 per acre. In December, 1869, an eighty-acre tract in section 22, 38, 14, and lying between Sixty- seventh and Seventy-first streets, and State street and Indiana avenue, was bought for $20,500. It is now held to be worth $225,000. BY MASON & MILLS. In June, 1872, seven acres at the crossing of Humboldt boulevard and Armitage road, and fronting upon them, being in section 36, 40, 13, sold at $2,200 per acre. It is now held at $3,500, the owner having refused $3,000. Same property sold in 1855 at $50 per acre. In November, 1838, R. K. Swift entered the northeast quarter of section 35, 40, 13. In February, 1854, he sold one-th rd, or a little over 53 acres of it, for $700. In March, 1869, this tract was sold for $20,000. In the same month was sold an undivided one-fourth part for $11,000, which was equal to $300 per acre. In April, 1870, the remaining three-fourths of the 53 acres was sold for $14,900, or at the rate of nearly $1,200 per acre. The same year the dif- SAMPLE TRANSACTIONS. 309 ferent owners of the eighty acres of which this is a part united in subdividing the property into lots, which have since been sold at retail at an average of $"20 per foot. In 1861, Bishop Clarkson bought 20 acres in the same quarter section at $150 per acre. Recently he was offered, for a portion of the tract, $2,500 per acre, which he declined. The' above detail is given to show growth in values in a portion of the city which until recently has not been looked upon with the favor shown to other localities. BY A. P. DOWNS & CO. July 3, 1855, the canal trustees deeded 21 acres in the west half of the northwest quarter of section 13, 30, 13, to David S. Lee, for $357. April 20, 1871, one lot of the above was sold for $1,000. Lots recently sold at $1,000. BY H. C. MOREY. In July, 1806, sold the north half of the west half of block 4, section 27, 39, 14, being 100 feet on Michigan avenue and 170 feet on Twenty-second street, for $!),000. It is now worth $400 per foot. November 14, 1866, sold the east 19 acres of the south 25 acres of the southeast quarter of section 4, 38, 14. at the northwest corner of State and Forty-seventh streets, for $10,000. It is now worth from $3,000 to $10,000 per acre. December 5, 1866, sold 12 acres in Lavinia's subdivision of the southeast quarter of section 10, 38, 14, at $208 per acre. A portion of this land, fronting on the South Parks, is worth $10,000 per acre. October 25, 1S67, sold the north 21 acres of the east half of the southeast quarter of section 8, 38, 14, at the southwest corner of Halsted and Fifty-first streets, at $,00 per acre, now worth $3,000 per acre. . , • February 5. 1868, sold 94 acres in the southwest quarter of section 15. 39, 13, in the town of Cicero, fronting on Twelfth street and Hyman avenue, at $150 per acre. It now sells at from $1,500 to $2,000 per acre. February 6th, 1870, sold the northeast quarter of the southeast quarter of section 23, 38, 13, for $6,000. It is now worth $25,000. BY GEO. DeLOYNES & SON. Four acres in Saltenstall & Russell's subdivision, between Grand and Drexel boulevards and Fifty-third and Forty-fourth streets, sold in September, 1872, at $3,000 per acre. On Wabash avenue, near Fifty -second street, 100 feet front sold in the spring of 1872 at $30 per front foot. The following fall it brought $:>0 per front foot. BY G. D. BEEBE. In 1869, 75 acres in the east half of the northwest quarter of section 2. 39, 13, sold for $52.u00. In 1872, the same property sold for $110,500, to Beebe. A portion of these lots (the property being subdivided, and known as Villa Ridge) were sold at auction last August at an average price of $1,000 per acre. The remaining lots are held at from $20 to $25 per front foot. BY A. & A. D. BELLAMY. Ten acrts in blocks 5 and 8, in Seipp's subdivision at Hyde Park, sold in 1870, at .$900 per acre. In May, 1872, the same piece brought $1,500 per acre, and in August of the same year, $1,700. Within the six months last past adjoining property has been sold at £2.500 p^r acre. One hundred feet fronting on Lake avtnue, and running through to the lake, in Lyman's subdivision, sold in June, 1872, for $130 per front foot and resold within a few clays thereafter at $142-50 per front foot. Other lots in this tract have recently sold at & 200 per front. foot. Forty acres in the east half of the southeast quarter of section 32, 38. 14," at South Engle- wood, was sold in October, 1872, for $l,0u0 per acre. Ten acres .of this were recently sold at $2,500 p,r acre. Five acres in block 6, Orvis' subdivision in section 9, 38, 14, sold in January, 1871, for $300 per acre. It was resold last year at $1,500. BY PATCH & CLYBOURNE. Ten lots in Lill & Diversey's subdivision, fronting north and south on Dunning street and Lill avenue, and lying between Lincoln and Seminary avenues, was sold in October, 1872, at $600 each. They were formerly purchased by Mr. Lill, in 1848, of the Canal Trustees, at less than $10 p.r acre. Thtse lots are now selling at from $.100 to $1,000 each. In October, 1872, sev^n lots on Lill avenue, east of Lincoln avdiue, in the same subdivis- ion, sold for $1,000 each. The same lots are now held at $1,200 each. Also in April, 1873, 160 acres, being the southwest quarter of section 3S, 37, 13, south of the Chicago rivtr, sold at $100 per acre. It has since been sold for $175 per acre. BY D. COLE & SON. July 1st, 1872, s' Id seven lots in block 3, Central Park addition, at $10 per foot. June 5, 1872, sold 25 feet on Ma.'.ison street, east of Halsted street, for $15,000. Resold six months afterwards for $18,000. 3io CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. January 6, 1873. seventy feet on West Madison, east of Green street, sold for $42,000. January 5, 1872. 48 feet on southeast corner of Union and Madison streets for. $18,500 cash. March 7. 1873, 125 feet on Randolph, west of Ada street, for $26,500. November 11, 1871. 24 feet on Madison, near Morgan street, for $10,000 ; now worth $16 800. December 12, 187?, 5 acres at the corner of California avenue and Taylor street, for $22,500; now worth $30,000. February 14, 1872. 40 fe< t on West Adams street, near Canal street, for $12,300. Fc bruary 10, 1872. 30 feet at the corn r of Washington and Union streets, for $15,000. July 13, 1871, 40 feet on West Washington, n ar Ada street, at $300 per foot; now worth $350 per foot. April 22, 1871, 50 f et on southwest corner of Halsted and Washington streets, for $21,000. January 15. 1872, 60 feet on West Madison street, near Halsted street, for $42,900. May 28, 1872. 50 feet on Fulton, n ar Wood street, for $4,750. November 16, 1871, 25 feet on Halsted, near Monroe street, for $7,000; now worth $500 p r foot. February 4. 1873, 75 feet on Sausramon, near Washington street, for $16,000. April 19, 1872, 25 feet on Madison, ni ar May street, for $10,500. January 6. 1872, 30 feet on Madison, near Halsted street, for $18,000; now worth $21,000. May 1, 1873, 197x250 fe^t at the corner of Jackson and Sangamon streets, for $30,000; now held at '$125,000. October, 1873, 75 feet on Ashland avenue, north of Jackson street, west front, at $225 per foot. In 1845, ten acres adjoining Twelfth street, and running from State street to the lake, was sold at $250 per acre. This property has gone through num< rons transfers; always at an ad- vanced value, and at the present time is worth $7(>,950 per acre. Mr. Matt Laflin bought, in 1845, on the west side of State street, south of Twelfth street, at $100 per acre. Its valuenow is $28,750 per acre. Mr. Laflin and Mr. Loomis purchased, in l)s49. eighty acres fronting north on Madison street, west on Ashland avenue, and running through to Loomis street, ami south to Harrison street, for $24,000. In 18H0, the average value of the whole tract was $60 per foot. It will now sell for a total value of over $2,000,000 without its improvements. BY BASH & SHAPLEY. In May, 1871, the east half of the southeast quarter of section 22, 38. 13, (town of Lake\ sold at $100. Same tract, October 1, 1871, brought $200; in April, 1873, $325; and in May, 1873, $400 per acre. In 1871, 160 acres adjoining the above on the west, wire off red at $200 per acre; sold ree-ntly at $400. In S ptember, 1872, the north half of the northwest quarter of section 23, same township, at $300 per acre. For the same tract $fi00 per acre has since been refused — the enhancement being largely due to the location of the Chicago, Danville and Vine nnes Railroad. In March, 1873, sold the whole of section 35, same township, to Sisson & Nt wman for $300 p r acre. The northeast quarter re-sold within a month at, $500; the southeast quarter in August 1873, at $500; and the southwest quarter of the southeast quarter at $475, somewhat earlier. In August, 1872, bought the southwest quarter of the southwest quarter of section 23, above mentioned, at $325; sold within a month at $375. In August, 1871, sold the west half of the southwest quarter of section 11, same township, at $-J75; re-sold October 1, 1871, at $320; and again, October 10, 1872, at $600. Now held at $1,25(1. In Augusts 1872,. sold the northeast quarti r of the northeast quarter of section 28, same township, at $125; re-sold in October following at $275; and again, at $300. In February, 1873, sold the east half of the southwest quart r of section 28, same'town- ship, at $175; Te-sold in March at $215. In March, 1873, sold the east half of the southwest quarter of section 20, same township, at $125; re-sold in April at $200, the purchast r being the Hon. C. B. Farwell. In February, 1873, sold the w< st half of the southeast quart r of s< ction 30, same town- ship, at $175; also the i ast half of the southwest quarter of section 30, same township, at $115; re-sold in April at $150. In March, 1873. sold the west half of the northwest quarter of section 3, 37, 13, at $150; re-sold in April at $225. Otlv r sales by this firm in the vicinity named are "too numerous to mention.") In 1870, 150 feet square, corner of Dearborn street and North avenue, at $210. Part have sold sinct at $250. In November, 1871, 50 feet on North Dearborn, near Burton place, Eli Bates's site\ at $200 per foot. In the winter of 1871 2, 80x150 feet on Dearborn, corner of Schiller, at $190 per foot; and 90 feet, northeast corner same streets, at $200. In August, 1872, 210 feet on Dearborn street, br tween Schiller and Burton place, at $200. In March, 1872, 83x550 f^et, on State, corner of Schiller, running through to Lake Shore drive, for .* 48,000. In March, 1872,250 feet on State street, between Schiller and Gnethe, at $150 per front foot. In December, 1870, 200 feet on North Clark street, bUween Schiller and North avenue, at £150 per front foot. Part V. PARKS OF CHICAGO THE SOUTH PARK SYSTEM. History of the Project — Legislation — Opposition — How it was Overcome — Prices Paid for Lands Taken — Provisions of the South Park Act — History of Im- provements, etc. THE park system of Chicago has as yet less interest in an artistic or aesthetic point of view than in a business point of view. In this respect Parks differ diametrically from People ; that is, the Park developes the poetical element only as it becomes old, while its youth is all hard, practical, speculative. It is only during the present season (summer of 1873) that the South Parks, about which we are now writing, and which are placed first because they are first in the thoughts of Chicago landowners, reached such a stage as to be in anywise attractive places of resort ; and even now there is scarcely anything finished or made artificially attractive, ex- cept the drives which lead to the hither end of the park nearest the city. The managers of the west parks have not even been able, under the strict limitations of power imposed upon them, to construct good di'iveways to the pleasure-grounds under their care. Notwithstanding this, the south and west paiks have been for five years the prin- cipal stimulus to land speculation and investment and the key to the situation of the Chicago real estate market. In view of this fact, and for the guidance of those who wish to study the situation referred to, we propose to embody here the first comprehensive history of the Chicago Parks, great and small, outside and inside, that has ever been published. How the Parks had their Origin. — The first attempt to found the South Parks was made in 1866, by the following prominent gentlemen : George M. Kimbark, Paul Cornell, Chauncey T. Bowen, George R. Clark, Obadiah Jackson, Jonathan Y. Scammon and J. Irving Pearce. Two park bills were prepared — one taking in the ground to be chosen as an addition to the city, and the other to have the grounds selected both inside and outside of the limits, and contemplating the appointment of a separate commission upon them. The last was the plan adopted by the pro- jectors, for the reason that it was found to be impossible to get the whole city to act favorably on the first, owing to a feeling of jealousy which has always existed to a deplorable extent between the three sections of the city. While the bills were being framed, letters were written to all the cities in the United States which have park improvements, asking for copies of the laws and regulations governing them, and from these the excellencies were culled and em- bodied in the bills. The first-mentioned bill provided for the taxing of the whole city, instead of the portion only which was benefited by it. The bill which was adopted provided that all the revenue for the park should be raised on the South 3T4 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Side, and the whole property is assessed in the ratio of its nearness to the park improvements. The system works well. Lincoln Park was acted upon by the whole city, because it was universally conceded that it was just the locality for a park, and the grrund all lay within the city limits. The only opposition met with in that project came from the fact that the whole city was taxed alike, and no espe- cial benefits assessed on the contiguous tracts. For instance, the ninety-acre tract fronting upon the park, and owned by Dr. Foster, was not more heavily tolled than property at Cottage Grove, in proportion to the value. So the act was so amended as to assess all the revenue upon the North Side and Lake View alone. Returning to the direct history of the South Parks, we note that the first south park bill was laid before the Legislature in the winter of 1867. It provided for the appointment of five commissioners, to be chosen by the Governoi'. The amount of bonds to be issued was limited to $1,000,000, and the amount of tax to be levied in any year was not to exceed $150,000. The location of the ground was to be left to these commissioners, and it was generally expected that the one hundred and twenty- acre tract known as Egandale, lying between Forty-seventh and Fifty-fifth streets, and east of Cottage Grove avenue, would be selected, because of its having already been beautifully improved by Dr. Egan, its former owner. It was covered with trees, and being high ground, overlooking Lake Michigan, the people thought it the best locality. The commissioners desired to choose this tract, but were met with opposition from the owners, the heirs of the Drexel estate. Had these people foreseen the benefits which have accrued to the chosen lands, they would have gladly disposed of this portion of the three hundred-acre tract which they owned under the Egan mortgage and would have received very much more for the whole than they did realize on its sale to different parties in that and the following year. The opposition from the Drexels ceased when the draft of the bill was so amended as to stipulate the location of the parks west of Cottage Grove avenue, thus leaving out the Egandale property. The park bill of 1867 was signed and submitted to the people at the spring town election, on the same day as the city election. The two parties not knowing the temper of the majority in reference to the park improvements, were neither of them willing to make that an issue, and, therefore, put upon the tickets both " For Park" and " Against Park." By the conditions of the act, the park vote was made separate and independent, and ap- pointed for the same day as the town elections of Hyde Park, South Chicago and the town of Lake, The cry of " speculation " and "corruption" was raised by the reactionists, against all who favored the parks, and as a result of this, the act was defeated by 169 majority. The Second Attempt. — The gentlemen who had secured the passage of the bill did not give up, but patiently waited until the next session of the Legislature, and then introduced another bill. In this last the location was definitely determined, the boundaries being those decided upon by a committee of citizens chosen in the fall for that purpose. They were J. Y. Scammon, George C. Walker, George R. Clarke, J. Irving Pearce, Joseph M. Dake, II. H. Honore, Chauncey T. Bowen, A. Emigh, P. R. Weslfall, Schuyler S. Benjamin, John Fitch, and John D. Jennings. These gentlemen drew up a bill and intrusted Mr. Bowen with its fate at Springfield. Mr. Bowen represented its claims for approval, and the result was its passage in the House by a vote of fifty- PARKS OF CHICAGO. 315 eight to two, and the Senate's concurrence by a vote of twenty-three to one. At that time John C. Dore was Senator from this city, and he insisted that, as a condi- tion to the act, it should be ratified by the people of the three townships of South Chicago, Hyde Park and Lake, at a special election to be called for that purpose. This was a precaution not only just on the face of it, but which virtually saved the act from being upset by the Supreme Court, when contested in that tribunal on constitutional grounds. As soon as the act was passed, the canvass was commenced, and it developed one of the most exciting contests ever witnessed in Chicago. It was finally ratified by the following vote : / For the parks and boulevards, - 9,662 Against " " " - 6,935 Majority, - - - - - - 3,737 — this being a very full vote of the three townships interested. Governor John M. Palmer immediately appointed the following gentlemen to constitute the first Board of Commissioners : John M. Wilson, Leverett B. Sidway, Paul Cornell, George W. Gage and Chauncey T. Bowen. The meeting of the Board, soon after, resulted in the choice of the following gentlemen as officers: John M. Wilson, President; Paul Cornell, Secretary ; George B. Smith, Treasurer ; and George W. Waite, Chief Engineer. Litigation. — The commissioners at once proceeded to negotiate their bonds, and had sold of them $ioo,coo, and purchased one hundred and twenty acres of land, when an action was commenced in the Circuit Court to test the constitutionality of the bill, and by this the hands of the Commissioners were tied until the October following, thus losing the remainder of the year 1869. Meantime the lands rapidly increased in value, and the Commissioners were obliged, on again commencing ne- gotiations, to pay the advance. The court decided against the plaintiffs, who, by their action, did not increase the regard in which they were held by the public, and who had the satisfaction of paying for their pains. Appraisal of Lands, — The Commissioners consulted five prominent real estate firms for values, and the highest estimate placed on the eleven hundred acres and the boulevards footed a total of $1,700,000. The maximum figures placed on any land in the north, or hither park, was $i,88o per acre, and on land in the south, or farther park, $700 per acre. The value of the 132 feet strip taken from Kankakee avenue for Grand Boulevard was averaged at $30 per foot ; $20 per foot at Fifty- first street, and $40 per foot at Thirty-fifth street. This was in the winter of 1869- 70. The present value is from $200 to $225 per foot. Computing the Benefits. — The Circuit Court appointe 1, as commissioners to as- certain the amount of benefits to accrue to lands to be affected by the park improve- ments, the following gentlemen : Benjamin F. Hadduck (since deceased), George W. Waite, and W. L. Greenleaf. The appointment of Mr. Hadduck was especially appropriate. He was known to be very conservative, an old resident, thoroughly familiar with property history and values in Cook County, and one whose opinion would be as satisfactory to the opposition as to the friends of the act. These Com- missioners, after working all the summer over the matter, rendered a statement 3 l6 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. showing the benefits to be at least fifteen millions of dollars, and the assessment to secure all this increase was placed at $1,800,000. This was before any improve- ments were made ; and as if to show the Chicago people how excessively conserva- tive they are in estimating land values, the property in question has proceeded to increase in value by at least qtiadmple the figure at which the special appraisers placed it. Raising the Wind. — The act, as passed, provided for the issue of bonds to the amount of $2,000,000, which should form a lien ; first, upon the lands appropriated, second, on all the real property in the towns of Hyde Park, Lake, and South Chicago. It was necessary to negotiate the bonds before any land could be purchased. These bonds were of a character different from those issued for any other parks in the country, being issued in the name and by authority of the South Park Com- missioners. Bonds for the building of parks elsewhere have invariably been issued by the city government and have required the mayor's endorsement. These bonds were issued by the Commissioners as a body corporate, entirely independent and separate from everything and every body else. Gen. George W. Smith, formerly State Treasurer, and Chauncey T. Bowen proceeded, in November, 1869, to Phila- delphia, Providence, Boston and other cities to negotiate the bonds. They finally settled on New York City, and made arrangements with the American Exchange National Bank to advertise them for sale. Gen. Smith returned home, and Mr. Bowen remained until the following February, to advocate their claims to favor. Money was sharp at 12 per cent., and yet in thirty days from the first sale they were all disposed of at figures which averaged 92 cents on the dollar, which at the time was considered a very successful negotiation, especially as the bonds were to run ten years at 7 per cent, interest. This closes the history of the struggle on the South Parks question. Ever since that time the programme of improvements, the purchases made, and all other work- ings of the commission have gone steadily forward, meeting with scarcely any oppo- sition, except from a few of the parties owning lands within the limits of the Park. The progress and improvements of the parks have given satisfaction to all parties, and the work will not stop until there is secured to the South Side a pleasure ground which will awaken the gratitude of all future generations, as it has the enthus- iastic approval of the people of this one. Acquiring the Lands. — The next thing to be done after locating the parks, was to acquire the lands. Of course, immediately after the success of the bill was assured, many who had lands within the boundaries selected for the parks and boulevards demanded an enormous advance on former prices for their interests, and they were paid, in most instances, simply because that great American tribunal, a petit jury, so decided whenever the cases were brought before it. The following is a complete list of these lands, and a statement of the manner in which they were obtained. It may be well to say, first, that nearly the whole of the transfers were made in the years 1869 and 1870, and the prices paid are far less than the values placed upon the same lands now. Scores of people were made suddenly wealthy by disposing of lands at such increase over what they were worth before. Some of these parties had owned their land for a number of years ; had paid tax after tax upon them, and offered them upon the market frequently without securing pur- PARKS OF CHICAGO. 317 chasers, even at a moderate figure, until the Park Commissioners pitched upon their property as the site of the improvement and offered them the prices named below. And even then, parties in a few instances have held on to their acres for heavier prices, believing that they could force the commissioners to pay any price they asked. The courts, for all but two or three of these greedy people, have settled the matter by appraisal, and in a short time, the last acre of the whole eleven hundred will have been acquired and paid for. The following is the history of the acquirement of the tracts : For the North Park. — The north fifteen acres, extending across the whole width of the upper park, was purchased of Mr. Gibson for $41,079.16. The fifteen acres south of and adjoining this was -purchased of Mr. Hoffman, for $37,500. The west twelve acres of the fifteen acres south of and adjoining the last named tract was bought of James Marks for $42,000. In this case Mr. Marks appealed from the award of the Commissioners, and pending the appeal a compromise was effected for the above named sum. The remaining three acres of this fifteen-acre tract was purchased of William Turner, under a similar compromise. The east one-half of the fifteen acres next south and adjoining was purchased of John D. Jennings, for $18,975. The next twenty-six acres adjoining just south of this belongs to Mrs. Cook, who has thus far kept the title through a dry and tedious process of litigation. s'The award of the Commissioners, $92,000, was made, like the awards on other property, in 1870. Mrs. Cook appealed to the Circuit Court. The result of the first trial was a verdict awarding her about $114,000. She appealed to the Supreme Court. The decision was adverse to the verdict, and the case was sent back to the court below for a new trial, with the instruction that juries might award owners of condemned lands the benefit of all increase in values since condemnation proceedings were com- menced, except such increase as should come from the park itself. This last trial resulted in a verdict in Mrs. Cook's favor for $171,569.66. From this the Com- missioners appealed to the Supreme Court, but have since settled with Mrs. C. on the basis of the last verdict. The east half of the tract lying between Fifty-third and Fifty-fourth streets, and next south of the Cook tract, and the west half of the east ten acres of the tract between Fifty-fourth and Fifty-fifth streets — twenty-two and a half acres in all — was purchased of Mr. Smith for $45,000. The north 19.83 acres of the west half of the land lying between Fifty-third and Fifty-fourth streets was the property of Mrs. Bailey, and was appraised by the Com- missioners appointed by the court at $73,000. She appealed from this, and a com- promise was effected at $90,000. She had placed the same land on the market one year before, asking only $14,000 for the whole tract, and found no purchaser. A narrow strip south of this was purchased of Fred. T. Ranney. The above descriptions include all the land north of Fifty-fourth street. A small improved tract on the corner of Cottage Grove avenue and Fifty-fifth street was bought of Bruno Gansel, for $10,000 ; and a small tract, which with the fore- going formed a five-acre block, was purchased of Theo. Schintz for $5,565. The west ten acres of the east twenty acres between Fifty-fourth and Fifty-fifth streets was purchased of John G. Shortall for $16,000. The west ten of the east thirty acres of the same tract was purchased of the heirs of Dr. Egan for $15,000. The west ten acres of the tract lying between Fifty-fourth and Fifty-fifth streets was 318 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. bought of Dr. Boone for $40,000. The east ten acres of the tract between Fifty- fifth and Fifty-sixth streets was acquired by condemnation and appraisal of the courts' Commissioners at $20,000, of Mr. Janson and the heirs of John A. Bross. The east ten acres of the tract between Fifty-sixth and Fifty-seventh streets was acquired in like manner, for $16,686.72, of the owners, C. B. Farwell, et al. The west twenty of the east forty acres between Fifty-fifth and Fifty-seventh streets was purchased of George C. Walker for $37,000. The west forty acres of this tract, owned by Martin Andrews, et al., was acquired by appraisal of the court's commissioners, for the sum of $59,287.51. The forty acres south of and adjoining the above was owned by Charles Busby, of whom it was acquired by appraisal at $48,000. -The west ten acres of the east twenty acres between Fifty - seventh and Fifty -eighth streets, was acquired in like manner, of Mr. Bartow, the owner, he receiving $18,113.33 for it. The east ten acres of the last mentioned twenty acres was purchased by the Park Commissioners, of Mr. Hamill, for $16,000. The east ten acres of the forty acres between Fifty-eight and Fifty-ninth streets was pur- chased in like manner, of Mr. Sheldon, for $16,000. The west ten acres of the east twenty acres of the same tract was bought of Mr. Jacobs for $15,000. The east ten acres of the forty acres lying between Fifty-ninth and Sixtieth streets was acquired by appraisal of the court's commissioners, of Wm. McKindley, for $16,500, The west ten acres of the east twenty acres between the same streets was purchased of the several owners for a total of about $16,000. The west twenty acres of this tract was acquired by appraisal, of Dr. Starr, for $24,000. For the Midway Plaisance. — This is a strip 600 feet wide connecting the upper and lower South Park. The west forty acres of it was purchased of Clark & Martin, trustees, for $80,000 in Park bonds. The twenty acres east of and adjoining this was acquired by appraisal of the Jackson heirs, and of Mr. Handy for $32,400. The twenty acres east of this and comprising the remainder of the plaisance was bought, by the Park Commissioners, of Messrs. Emigh & Kilmer, for $76,000. The lands before mentioned were purchased in 1870. This tract was bought in 1873, which accounts for the increase of one hundred and thirty-Jive per cent. For t hi Farther Park. — The north fifty acres ol this park (commonly called the " Lower Park," from the habit of the people of North America of regarding every- thing to the southward as down) was acquired by appraisal of the court's commis- sioners, of Charles Anderson and others, for $96,500. Dickinson's subdivision of ten acres, lying on the lake shore, south of the above north fifty acres, has been appraised, and an appeal has heen taken by all the owners excepting the owners of five lots who accepted the award of the commissioners. The appeal is yet pending. The north ten acres of the twenty-acre tract west, and adjoining on the south the north fifty acres above mentioned, was purchased of Bliss & Sharp for $12,000. The south ten acres of the twenty acres west, and adjoining Dickenson's subdivision, was bought of Wm. P. Grey for $20,000. This last was improved property. The tract lying south of the above subdivision, on the lake shore, and comprising about thirteen acres, was acquired by appraisal for $21,459, °f Morton & Clement, the owners. A tract west, and adjoining the Morton & Clement property, and contain- ing five acres, was acquired by appraisal, of the heirs of John R. Stark weaker, for $6,300. Ten acres adjoining the Starkweather tract on the west was bought of the owner, J. D. Piatt, for $20,000. It had a good class of improvements on it. The PARKS OF CHICAGO. 319 fractional south half of section 13, excepting about five acres on Hyde Park avenue, is still in litigation. The Park Commissioners have a contract from one of the par- ties claiming the title to the whole, and the contest is between him and other claim- ants. Ten acres lying on the west side of the park, and immediately south of the tract last mentioned, was purchased of C. C. Abbott, for $20,000. The fifteen acres adjoining this, south, and extending to Sixty-seventh street, the south limit of the park, was purchased of Mrs. S. D. Kimbark, for $20,000. The north five acres of the fifteen acres lying immediately east of the above tract was bought of Mrs. S. D. Kimbark for $8,750. The remaining ten acres of this tract was bought of Levi Blackwell, for $15,000. One hundred acres lying east of the above was purchased of Judge Dunlevy, for $125,000^ The north fifteen acres of the twenty acres lying east of this was purchased of George M. Hambright for $10,000. Five acres south of and adjacent to the above, which belonged to Mrs. Kimbark, was purchased for $5,000. The tract of about eighty acres adjoining these two last mentioned tracts is subject to condemnation proceedings now pending. Ten acres known as the Hoyt subdivision, excepting two lots, and lying east of the above last mentioned tract on the lake shore, has been purchased of the owners. The thirty acres known as the Wm. B. Astor subdivision, lying south of the Hoyt subdivision, and east of the last mentioned eighty acres, was purchased of H. O. Stone, for $24,000, excepting five or six lots not yet acquired. The above is a complete schedule of lands lying with- in the boundaries of the South Parks. Growth of Values. — In addition to the example of increase given by the Bailey tract, we give a few other tracts as indicative of the whole, and to show the remark- able benefits which accrued to individual owners by the locating of the parka and the consequent purchase by the Park Commissioners. Charles VV. Cook, in 1835, paid $200 for the whole southeast quarter of sectioii 10, in which the iwenty-six acres mentioned in the list is located. In the same yea ; he sold one-half of this to George W. Merrill for $100. In 1868 Mrs. Cook pur- chased seven and a half acres of the tract of Thomas Foster and others, for $17,500* The Marks and Turner tract of fifteen acres was patented to C. W. Cook, ia 1839. It was conveyed, in 1865, by the then owners, John R. Case and others, t, H. S. Monroe and others, for $4,875. Again, by Mr. Monroe and others, in 1866, to H. O. Stone, for $7,500, and by him sold to James Marks, in 1867, for $10,500 The Park Commissioners bought it, in 1870, of Mr. Marks and Mr. Turner, fo $52,500. Increase in three years, $42,000 — just 500 per cent. From the abstract we learn the following concerning the north fifty acres of th lower park : One hundred and thirty-three acres, including this, was entered, i 1835, by J. Smith, for $187.08. The fifty-acre tract was conveyed, in 1837, to Noi man Kew, for $1,000. Re-conveyed by Mary L. Watson, in 1854, to John R. Po - lard, et at, for $4,250. In 1857 it was sold by Henry H. Pennimati to Samuel Pen niman, for $15,000. For ten acres of the fifty acres Mr. Piatt paid, in 1868, $10,00.. This last figure would place the value of the fiLy acres, in 1868, at $56,000. Th Park Commissioners paid, two years later, $96,500. Increase in two years, over 9 per cent. These are not exceptional cases. The increase on the other portions c the parks would show the above ratio to be the rule. Description of the Park Improvements. — The commencement of the improve- ment of the parks proper dates from the early part of last summer. The first woi* 320 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. was begun at the north end of the west park, and about fifty acres have already taken the form and appearance laid down in the plans of Mr. Cleveland, the architect. Bayard avenue, which winds in a serpentine course around the south open green from Grand to Drexel boulevard, has been graded and laid with Joliet gravel, cob- ble-stone, curbed, etc. During the winter and spring of 1873, the surface of the grass plats in the north fifty acres was graded and varied, seeded down, and trees planted, ranging from four to eight inches in diameter of trunk. Bayard avenue is a fine driveway — forty feet in width. It encircles about one hundred acres of grass plat. On this area no trees or shrubbery will be allowed, the object being to give an unobstructed view always across the park. Around this green are planting spaces of many different picturesque shapes. On these will be planted forest trees, but no shrubbery. Southwest of the open green, and bordering upon it, is to be erected the grand pavilion, for dancing, billiards, and refreshments. In front of this will be a vine- covered arbor, about 100x200 feet, and around the whole a large space will be reserved for a concourse for visitors and carriages. Something like 500 feet to the south of this, and on the western edge of the park, are already erected stables and sheds for hitching and feeding horses. The size of these buildings affords ample accommodation. The location of the pavilion is on the extension of Pavilion boulevard. The plan of this is as follows: It will be 200 feet wide, with a planting space in the center go feet wide ; driveways on each side, 40 feet wide, nicely graded, curbed and gravelled, and at the outer edge of each driveway, a fifteen-feet sidewalk is provided for. The improvement in this manner will end at State street. From State street to Reuben street, a distance of two miles directly west, it will be a 70 feet driveway, with planting spaces at the sides. This will leave a mile of interval from Reuben street west to Western avenue, which will be beautified after the same manner as the one-half mile of space between State street and the park. On entering the park, this street will take a serpentine direction to the south-east corner of the park, where it will enter the midway plaisance. The southern part of the west park will be used for the deer paddock, exhibi- tion grounds, the farmstead, the administration buildings, and the mere, with exten- sive plats covered with trees and shrubbery. The mere will consist of a number of artificial lakes connected by straits with each other, and emptying into the mid- way basins. The area of the above tract is about 200 acres, and it will be called the upper plaisance. The midway plaisance, embracing all the area of the blocks between Fifty-ninth and Sixtieth streets. This will be devoted to beautiful driveways, planting places, and the midway basins. These latter will form a continuous sheet of water through to the great lagoon of the lower or east park. Each of these basins will be about 1,300 feet long and 100 feet wide, connected by straits 40 feet wide at the intersec- tions with streets, where they will be covered by bridges of handsome design. The " lower" park, into which the midway plaisance leads, contains an area of about 500 acres. It is bounded on the west by Hyde Park avenue, a beautiful street paved with Nicholson pavement ; on the north by Fifty-ninth street, on the south by Sixty-seventh street, and on the east by the lake. The whole area of the lower PARKS OF CHICAGO. 321 park will be diversified with large and multi-form lakes, winding driveways and walks, and covered with forest trees and shrubbery. A natural forest now covers the southwest part of it, and innumerable trees will be added, by the transplanting of large trees of symmetrical shape and stately height. A sufficient number of these will be planted to make the larger portion of the park a beautiful woodland. A little south of the center and on the west side of this park are to be erected the administration buildings. A short distance east of these will be the park haven shelter. South of the great lagoon is to be the pavilion con- course of this park, constructed in a similar manner as the ones in the " upper " park. On the lake shore, and at about the geographical center north and south, will be the Belvidere building and promenade, and a little north of this the Belvi- dere stand. These buildings will be carried up far enough to give an imposing view of the parks and boulevards, the lake and the shipping, etc. It is intended to make the park haven large enough and deep enough to admit steamers and pleasure boats to dock. The pier which is to protect the park haven from the action of the lake will extend eastward several hundred feet. This will enable visitors to reach the parks by water as well as by rail and carriages. Along the lake shore, and extending the whole length of the park, will be a macadamized lake shore drive, of ample width and substantial and enduring workmanship. It will constitute one of the most enjoyable roadways in the country, on account of the beautiful land and water scenery which it will skirt. This is a sketch of the plan of the South park improvements, as drawn by Messrs. Olmstead & Vaux, of New York. It should be remarked, however, that these gentlemen have been accustomed to design public grounds for a much larger and wealthier city than the South Division of Chicago, and where money, under the influence of Tammany appliances was much freer than here ; hence some of the ideas of the designers, excellent though they are, will have to be sacrificed. The south open green, for instance, will be left as a flat lawn, instead of being concaved out according to the original plan — an operation that would absorb much more than a year's net revenues ; and the system of lakes and lagoons in the hither park and the midway plaisance will also be postponed indefinitely, the Commis- sioners being of the opinion that the larger proportion of the funds at their dis- posal had better be invested in sewers and roadways, and in a series of the most essential embellishments and park attractions where the most can be had for the least money. Approaches. — The South Parks are approached on the north by Drexel and Grand boulevards. The former enters at the northeast corner. The entrance is 450 feet wide, and extends across an entire block, east and west. The entrance on the northwest corner from Grand boulevard is 345 feet wide. Both entrances are beautifully planned with grass plats, planting places, drives and fountains. Grand Boulevard. — This beautiful thoroughfare extends from Thirty-fifth street south to Fifty-first street boulevard, and lies two blocks east of Prairie avenue. It runs parallel with Drexel boulevard, being three blocks west of it. The first im- provement on the Grand boulevard commenced at the north boundary, Thirty-fifth street, and was completed to Forty-fifth street in that year, 1870. Kankakee avenue was widened by the addition of 132 feet taken from the east front, in accordance with the act. At Grand boulevard it is 200 feet wide, including a pleas- 21 322 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. ure drive through the center, 60 feet wide, and traffic roadways on each side. The pleasure drive can only be used for recreation. The improvement of the roadways is in three materials, viz. : asphalt, stone screenings and Joliet gravel. The screen- ings are the fine chippings from the manufacture of marble blocks. As this is the first of the boulevards improved, experiments have been made in different materials. The manner of building the same is as follows : First, grading, then cobble stone, then a top dressing of screenings or Joliet gravel. The portion covered by the last last named material has a foundation of the coarse stones, selected from the gravel, The gutters are covered either by asphalt, cobble-stone, or the slag from blast fur- naces. The boulevard is now completed as far south as Fifty-first street, where it enters the park, and bordered on each side by large elm trees, and is the resort of hundreds each day. Two additional rows of trees will ultimately be added. The expectations of the Commissioners have been much more than realized in the eager- ness with which the carriage-riding public seeks the boulevards for recreation. This is especially true of Grand boulevard, which is often crowded for a space of' two miles with carriages averaging three abreast. The principal owners of property along Grand boulevard are as follows : Between Thirty-fifth and Thirty-sixth streets : On the west side, Mr. Moffitt, the entire front. On the east side, H. G. Loomis, Ff. H. Honore. Between Thirty-seventh and Thirty-eighth streets, Bryan Philpot, the entire east front. Between Thirty-eighth and Thirty-ninth : On the west side, G. A. Springer, 600 feet. On the east side, H. Ff. Honore, 600 feet. Between Thirty-ninth and Fortieth : On the west side, H. H. Honore, 600 feet. On the east side, J. E. Warren, 500 feet ; Mr. Pflaum, 100 feet. Between Fortieth and Forty-first: On the west side, H. H. Honore, 600 feet. On the east side, Washington Smith, J. H. Hill, McKay Brothers, of Janesville, Wis. Between Forty-first and Forty-second : On the west side, Jas. E. Tyler, 600 feet. On the east side, Geo. S. Bo wen, 600 feet. Between Forty-third and Forty-fourth : On the west side, Wilbur F. Storey, editor of the " Times," 300 feet, running through to Vincennes avenue. Between Forty-fifth and Forty-seventh : On the west side, Alfred Cowles, of the "Tribune," 300 feet ; Gen. John A. Logan, 600 feet. On the east side, Potter Palmer and H. H. Honore, each 600 feet. Between Forty-seventh and Forty-eighth : On the east side, Jas. M. Walker, President C. B. & Q. Railroad, 200 feet ; W. F. Storey, 300 feet. Between Forty-eighth and Fiftieth, Elliot Anthony holds the east front (west side of the boulevard), and H. O. Stone the west front ; and between Fiftieth and Fifty-first, where the boulevard enters the park, the corresponding fronts are held by H. H. Honore and Obadiah Jackson. Drexel Boulevard. — Drexel boulevard (formerly Grove Parkway) is the result of the action of a meeting of the property owners along its borders from the railroad track at Forty-first street to the South Park, held about the time the initiation was taken on the park improvement, to take into consideration the proposition of the South Park Commissioners to purchase the right of way for a thoroughfare from Kgan avenue, the present city limits, to the entrance of South Park at Fifty-first il PARKS OF CHICAGO. 323 street boulevard. The purchase was made, the owners receiving sums made up of prices which averaged $4,000 per acre. It is 200 feet wide from beginning to end, the breadth being divided as follows: 15 feet of sidewalk and 40 feet of road- way at the sides of the planting place in the center, which is go feet wide. One hundred feet was taken on each side. The figure named is about one-third the rate paid for the 132 feet taken for Grand boulevard from the west side of Kankakee avenue. The Avenue ITmperatrice, Paris, is the model for Drexel boulevard. The only difference in the plans of the^two avenues being in width, the former being 300 feet wide and having two planting places through its center. In the building and orna- mentation of the two they are, with this one exception, exactly similar, so that a description of the one is a description r of the other The avenue l'lmperatrice is considered the finest street in the world. Drexel boulevard is devoted to the ex- clusive uses of pleasure, all traffic over it being forbidden. The ornamentation of each block is dissimilar, and the improvement is now sufficiently advanced to show its character. Forest, flower gardens, shrubbery, etc., alternate, and the walks are shaped in divers winding L courses. The material of the walks is hard blue clay, the drives of gravel on a compact graded surface, the sidewalks of asphalt and stone, and the gutters are formed by conca\e slabs of slag, an imperishable material. The swell of the planting surface is considerably above the driving grade, giving a prominent and beautiful appearance. Trellis work, rustic seats and bowers, fountains, etc., will be features interspersed through the whole length. At the south end and on the beautiful Fifty-first street boulevard, which at the park entrance is 400 feet in width, will be placed a mammoth fountain, 70 feet in diameter, and of costly and beautiful design. An effort will be made at the next session of the Legislature to secure the removal of Douglas Monument to this space, at the head of, and overlooking, the park. The Park Commissioners volunteer to complete the monument by subscription, if it is removed as proposed. On each side of the boulevard, throughout its entire length, the property holders have placed, four feet inside of the fence, lines of stately elms from twelve to four- teen inches in diameter, and all living and in leaf, A uniform building line of 40 feet is established through the entire length of the boulevard, giving a clear open space of 280 feet wide. Why some things are thus. — The estimates of five competent real estate experts were taken relative to the value of the lands to be taken for these parks before pro- ceeding to find their location. These estimates varied from $1,300,000 to $1,800,- 000 — that is from $1,100 to $1,500 per acre ; but the price was brought in some cases as high as $6,000 per acre for land in the city-ward park, and some parties who are not yet settled with are even demanding $6,000 per acre for a large tract in the farther park, much of it marshy and undrainable, and only usable as a lake ! Added to these unexpected draughts upon their revenues, and the $70,000 per year ( commencing 1873 ) to be devoted to the taking up of the bonds, and the $140 000 a year interest that must be met, it will be seen that the Commissioners must needs manage pretty economically and adopt a less lavish system of improvements than was originally contemplated, in order to get around each year inside their reve- nues, the full amount of which has never yet been realized, (though it must be sometime ). The account stands about thus : 3 2 4 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Total revenue $300,000 Out of which must be paid Interest on Bonds $140,000 Liquidating Bonds, — 70,000 Salaries 12,000 Leaving for improvements per year 78,000 Total $300,000 The improvements already made have been noted above. Those of the present and ensuing season (before 1st June, 1874), will conclude the completion of Bayard Circle and the lawn of one hundred acres within it ; the completion of a broad gravel drive along the midway plaisance and clear around the Lake Shore Park, and the improvement of one hundred acres at the north end of the latter tract — a good deal to do with $78,000. THE WEST PARK SYSTEM. The Plan at the Outset — How and Why It Was Modified — The First Commis- sioners — Cost of the Lands — Description of the Parks — The Fire Monument of Iron Safes, Masonry Relics, etc. IN 1869 a discussion arose in the Common Council as to the practicability of municipal action in this direction, and a committee was chosen to draw up a park bill. The committee of the Council thus chosen consulted Hon. S. S. Hayes, and requested him to draft a bill providing for a system of parks and boulevards for the whole city, which he did. The committee heartily approved of the bill as drafted by Mr. Hayes, and it was endorsed by the Common Council at its next meeting, and recommended for passage by the Legislature. The following is a brief synopsis of the bill : It comprehended a division of the city into four parts, to be known as the Park Districts, as follows : That part of the city east of the North Branch of the river, to be known as Park District No. 1 ; that part west of the North Branch, to be known as District No. 2 ; that part west of the South Branch and west of the canal, to be known as No. 3 ; and that part east of the South Branch and east of the canal, to be known as No. 4. The mayor was to appoint three freeholders, owners of real estate within the city, to act as commissioners, one for each division of the city, who should be qualified as electors of municipal officers, and should hold office four years. Each one was to swear that while holding office they would not receive profit or gain from the sale of any lands purchased or condemned, or from any contract for improving, or other source connected with the park work. The bill designated the extreme boundaries within which the parks could be located, but left the affixing of the actual boundaries of the parks and boulevards to the discretion of the Commissioners. A provision was made in this bill for the appropriation by the Council of sums, from time to time, to defray the expenses of surveying, etc. The Act Passed. — On motion of Alderman Dixon, a committee of three of the Council was appointed to go to Springfield, and urge its passage. This committee were Aldermen Wicker, Russell and Beebe. To this force were added Hon. S. S. Hayes, J. C. Haines, D. Cole, and others. When these gentlemen arrived at the Capitol they found that South and North Side parties had arranged for the passage of bills for parks in their portions of the city, separately, and therefore they held a meeting and modified their bill so as to include the West Side parks only. This bill was readily passed with but little alteration, and submitted to the people the same year. The vote was taken March 23, 1869, in the town of West Chicago, 326 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. and that part of the towns of Jefferson and Cicero which were entitled, under the act, to vote, and resulted as follows : For the parks and boulevards, 4,422 ; against the parks and boulevards, 3,903. Majority for the act, 519. Organization. — The act was passed in February, 1869, and the governor ap- pointed the first Board of Commissioners the following April. An organization of the Board was effected May 5, 1869, and since that time they have been actively engaged in carrying out the designs and purposes of the law. The commissioners appointed were C. C. P. Holden, Henry Greenebaum, George W. Stanford, E. F. Runyan, Isaac R. Hitt, Clark Lipe, and David Cole. Hon. S. S. Hayes was urged to accept an ap- pointment, but declined. On the organization of the Board, George W. Stanford was chosen president ; Henry Greenebaum, treasurer ; E. F. Runyan, auditor ; Charles S. Loding, secretary ; and W. L. B. Jenny, architect and chief engineer. By a resolution adopted by the Board, June 25, 1869, the labor of selecting the lands was given into the hands of a committee of three, consisting of Messers. Greenebaum, Hitt and Runyan, who made an effort to locate the parks where they would be accessible from public means of travel, and, at the same time, not so far from business and residence centers as to make them inaccessible to pedestrians and carriages. The act designated that a boulevard should be laid out to extend from a point north of Fullerton avenue, running thence west one mile or more west of Western avenue, and thence southerly, with such curves and deviations as the Board should deem expedient, to the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad line, and that on the line of said boulevard three parks should be established. The north park was ordered to be made not less than 200 acres in area, and the cost not to exceed $250,000 ; its location to be north of Kinzie street. The middle park to be located between Kinzie and Harrison streets, to contain at least one hundred acres, and the cost not to exceed $400,000. The southern park to be located between Harrison street and the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad line ; to contain at least 100 acres, and its cost to be limited to $250,000. The aggregate cost of the parks and boulevards was limited to $1,050,000. Work of Acquiring Lands. — The public will hardly conclude that the duties of Messrs. Greenebaum, Hitt and Runyan, were of a light or easy character, under the restrictions and limitations above noted. In July they submitted ten plans. These were exhibited for ten days, and offers for sale of lands and donations were invited. However they met with little response, and the committee prepared three other plans. These last secured sufficient donations and offers for sale to warrant the committee in definitely locating the parks and boulevards within the boundaries which now surround them. This was done early in November, 1869. As in the case of the south parks, prices immediately advanced to an exorbitant figure on all the lands selected, and the Board were compelled, in equity to the people, to wait until concessions of from 25 to 30 per centum were offered. They made the pur- chase money payable in three installments, thus dividing the special assessments into three annual assessments, instead of raising it in one, by condemnation. The Board has power to levy and collect special assessments on lands benefitted ; to issue bonds to pay the amounts found payable, and also for any deficiency which may exist after the other resources of the Board are exhausted. It is, however, the cause of much delay to make and collect these special assessments. PARKS OF CHICAGO. 327 A provision was made by the city to devote the $Soo,ooo, which was to be derived from the sale of the lake front to the railroad companies, to park purposes by equal division, or $200,000. As this sale has never been consummated, owing to legal obstacles found to exist, this appropriation, of course, can not be counted upon. At the close of the first year's labor the Commissioners had acquired 450 acres of land, leaving 311 acres yet to be secured. At the end of the second year they had acquired nearly the whole. The purchases were all concluded by the 12th day of May, 1870. On the 19th of May they petitioned the Circuit Court to appoint three Assessors to affix the value of lands belonging to parties who would not sell at the prices offered. The Court appointed as such Assessors, Nathan Allen, Pleasant Amick and Garrett L. Hoodless. On the 25th of July the Circuit Court confirmed their assessment of $231,835.73, and also the amount of the condemnation pro- ceedings, which was, in round numbers, $74,000. Douglas Park. — Douglas Park is in the shape of an oblong square, extending from Twelfth to Nineteenth street, north and south, and from California avenue to Yaeger street, east and west. The topography of the west parks is naturally a dead level, and Douglas Park lies low as well — hence the large use of its surface for ornamental lakes, a desideratum in view of the considerable distance of these parks inland from Lake Michigan. Its area is 180 acres. The main entrance is at the corner of Twelfth street and California avenue, from an ellipse, in the center of which will be a handsome drinking fountain. The greatest diameter of this ellipse is 250 feet, and its shortest 175 feet. The fountain will be approached by converg- ing walks, and seats and bowers will surround it. From the center of the inner rim of the ellipse will be a grand promenade and drive leading to. the circle which will surround the grounds of the new Douglas Monument, which is to be 70 feet in diameter at its base. Around this is a concourse of ample width, being the com- mencement of the grand circle drive, which is two and one-quarter miles long, and will wind around the inner border of the park about ioo feet from the fence at its nearest point. It will be 50 feet wide, graded, macadamized and curbed. Serpen- tine walks will cover the grounds of the park, like finely patterned web work, and lead to all the interesting localities. Fed by the artesian well, which is located in the north part of the park, will be a large lake or lagoon, divided into three parts, with the largest part in the center of the park, the whole extending from near the north boundary to near the southern limit of the park. At the necks, massive stone bridges, 50 feet wide, will be built. Just north of the northern bridge will be a waterfall two feet high, and extending a distance of 150 feet across the narrow por- tion of the north lake. Branches from the great circle drive cross the park over these bridges. On the north side of the center lake in the park will be a large refectory for refreshments and amusements. Around this, on the lake shore, will be a massive stone railing. The terrace and music-stand will occupy a large space on the opposite side of the lake. The play-house will be on the north shore of the lower lake, south of the terrace. Two handsome islands will be made on the eastern part of the lower lagoon. They will be connected with the shore, and with each other, by foot-bridges of rustic design. On the lower island, overlooking the lake, will be a summer-house and belvidere. In the southwest corner of the park will be 328 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. a rotunda and a large cascade, elegantly located on raised ground. A little west of the circle drive, in the north part of the park, will be the dairy and farmstead. A branch from the main drive will pass out of the park in the southeast corner through a triangular space ornamented with trees and walks. At about the center of the park, north and south, on the west side, is to be a large concourse for carriages. West of the terrace is to be the boat landing, approached by heavy stone steps 40 feet long, leading down to the watei\ On the great open lawn, north of the center lake, no trees or shrubbery will be placed. The water in the upper lake will be nine feet deep, and in the central and lower lakes, eight feet deep. The Douglas Park Boulevards* — Ogden boulevard, which enters the park and passes through it in a southwestern course, is an extension of Southwestern avenue. which has its northern terminus at the east end of Union Park. This boulevard is 150 feet wide, and extends through to Riverside, forming, when completed, a con- tinuous macadamized drive from Randolph street to Riverside. At its intersection in Douglas Park with the circle drive, will be placed a very large fountain. Its width, from this fountain to the western border of the park, diminishes to 60 feet, and widens again to 150 feet. Douglas boulevard, which connects Douglas with Central Park, is 250 feet wide throughout. At the end of its westward stretch (Hamlin avenue) is a space 400 feet square. Here it turns north to Central Park. It will have a planting place 120 feet wide in the center, and a drive on each side of this, 40 feet wide, graded, macad- amized, curbed and sewered. Also, spaces 25 feet wide at each side for trees and sidewalks. A peculiar excellence in Douglas Park is the large amount of lake surface, affording scope for a good row, no matter how many boats are out. The Commis- sioners have, through a great deal of hard labor and hard thinking, worked out the problem of the West Parks improvement, and have now such a perfect working system that there will be no failure or uncertainty about the carrying out of the plans. True, the improvements are not finished ; they are but begun as yet, as the drawbacks of the fire and some litigation in collecting the special assessments have caused the work to proceed more slowly than it would have done without these hin- drances ; but the progress has been sure, and will go forward rapidly until all is fulfilled. The main sewer of this system of parks and boulevards will be located on Kedzie avenue, it having been found that by running a large main through to the river, it would drain all of the three parks, and render all the acres near them dry and admirably suited to residence purposes. Central Park. — Central Park, is laid in an oblong, with an arm extending east from the eastern border of the main area. It is bounded as follows: Its southern limit extends, diagonally, along Barry Point road in a southeasterly direction, from Central Park avenue to Hamlin avenue, which bounds the whole on the west. Its northern boundary runs directly east and west along the line of Kin'zie street, or the Chicago and Northwestern railway, from and to the same north and south avenues. The eastei-n extension is bounded by Lake and Madison streets on the north and south, and by Homan avenue on the east. This extension, or arm, contains forty- four acres of area, and reaches 1,000 feet further east than the north and south elongation. The main body of the park contains 141 acres, making the total area 185 acres. PARKS OF CHICAGO. 329 The improvement of this beautifully planned park was commenced in the spring of 1872, under the direct supervision of the Park Commissioners. The first sod was lifted in the eastern part of the eastern part, or that part between the two right angles formed by its plan. The main entrance is from Washington street, which, according to the plan of the Commissioners, is to be widened from the railway crossing, just west of Western avenue, to the park, to a width of 150 feet. At the main entrance is a semi- circular space with 120 feet radius, in the center of which are planted six large elm trees, and across the space are posts and chain to confine travel to the driveway at each side, The exit of the arc is fifty feet wide, and leads into the main drive, which encloses an oval of about thirty acres area. The Fire Monument. — Exactly in the center of Washington street, and just west of the main drive, at a distance of 300 feet from the entrance is a semi-circle, 100 feet in diameter, enclosing the circular grounds on which is being erected the Chicago Fire Monument. This was commenced by laying the corner-stone with very imposing ceremonies. The occurrence was on October 30, 1872. From the report of Mr. Jenny, the architect of the monument, made to the President of the Commission, and read at the ceremonies alluded to, we take the following extract : " The design for this monument, prepared immediately after the fire, contemplated that the entire exterior should he composed exclusively of relics. On receipt of your instructions, that owing to the great interest taken in the matter, and the prominent position selected in the park system as its site, I should prepare a new design, of increased importance, using the safes for the shaft, hut discarding other relics as too poor and insignificant for the hase of so important a work. " One of the most remarkahle facts connected with our great fire was the unprecedented generosity of the entire civilized world in contributing to the relief of our needy sufferers. As a slight token of recognition, we would inscribe upon this monument the names of the cities contributing and the amounts of their most liberal donations. For this purpose eleven large tablets are arranged on the walls of the first story, corresponding to the openings in a Gothic arcade, and a twelfth panel is a doorway leading into the stairway to the terrace above, where are eight other Gothic panels and tablets. The interior walls of the first and second stories are decorated with other panels for inscriptions and such cut stone as were obtained from destroyed buildings. The summit of the spire is surmounted by a quadruple Gothic column, on which stands a female figure holding aloft in both hands a naming torch, emble- matic of destruction by fire." Other Ornaments and Attractions. — At the southeast and northeast corners, and also at the grand entrance opposite Washington street, are four paths, fifteen feet wide, laid out in avenue style, with trees each side and leading to all portions of the park. These have numerous branches, of course, and are laid out in every conceivable direction. A large number of these walks converge towards the oval enclosed by the main drive which they enter from every direction. The southeast portion of the eastern arm is made into a gently sloping elevation eleven feet high at its apex, and covering, at its base, fifteen acres of ground. The summit takes the form of an ellipse 240 feet wide at its greatest, and 200 feet wide at its smallest diameter. This mound is completed. The prominent feature of this elevation is the play-house, now in process of erection. It is 60x70 feet in size, of a most elaborate and beautiful rustic design, with an open court in the center 60 feet in diameter. In this court will be a rustic fountain 20 feet in diameter. The four corners of the play-house are treated as pavilions. Seats and tables for 800 people will be arranged inside. The floor will 330 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. be asphalt. At the four corner entrances will be drinking fountains in rustic. This house will have cost, when completed, from $2,000 to $2,300. The whole western portion of the mound will be treated as forest, with large trees and flower- ing shrubs. The ladies' cottage will be located north of the play-house. It will have a large waiting-room and two toilet-rooms, completely fitted. It will also have six closets. The whole will be heated, in winter, by a neat stove in the center of the building. The outside of the building will be rustic, very substantial. In front of the entrance will be two large rustic flower baskets, and the portion above the ceiling will be made into pigeon-houses, The gents' cottage will be in the north part of the main drive on the north side of the park. It will be square, with octagon pavil- ion on each side. The two entrances will contain toilet fixtures. The five closets will be surrounded by a central hall. The side pavilions will be used for storage of stools, and so forth. The lake of this arm or extension has been excavated and filled from the arte- sian well. The water is seven feet deep, in summer, which depth is, in winter, diminished to four feet, for skating purposes. A large island is left in the western part of the lake. It is approached by two rustic bridges from the walks which approach the refectory, which last will be of ample size, in rustic design and nicely filled up. Another expensive and beautiful improvement to be built is the viaduct at the intersection of Madison street and the main drive. It will be built the full width of the drive. Above the masonry will be several feet of soil, and this will be so covered with shrubs and evergreens as to conceal the work entirely. The cost of this splendid feature of the west park improvement will not be less than $20,000. The works above described are entirely comprised within the forty-four acres of area included in the eastern extension of the park. Among the things mapped out for consummation in due course of time are the following, all included in the main park, or rather the larger part of the park lying west of the portion we have been describing. At present this part is almost in its natural state. Some of the principal ornamentation of the grounds is to found here. The western lake will be in the center, and covers an area of ten acres. It will be of uniform depth with the other lakes, and like them furnished with ample sewerage. The artesian well of Central Park, which flows, by actual measurement, 619,000 gallons per day, feeds both of its lakes. It is 1,220 feet deep. Each park has an artesian well, and there is also one on Humboldt boulevard. They furnish an ample and never failing supply of water for the lakes, for irrigation to the trees, and for all other purposes for which it is required. The cost of the wells has been about $5,000 each on the average. On the western boundary of this last named lake will be an oriental terrace, which will cover eight acres, twice the area of the Court House Square. In the center of this will be a handsome music stand, and monumental pavilions for private parties on the corners. Two large boat-landings are approached from it, fitted with stone steps and every elegant convenience. On the west of this terrace is a large concourse for carriages. The terrace will be surrounded with heavy stone railings, at the corners of which will be unique and beautiful flower-vases of the same material. It is designed to cover a portion of the area with ornamental tiling. PARKS OF CHICAGO. 331 Seats and sofas will be disposed in convenient places. The vicinage of this terrace will be treated as a flower garden. A large refectory will be located on the north shore of this lake. The Winter Garden is designed to constitute one of the most attractive features of the park. It will be eight hundred feet long and eighty feet wide. At the west end will be a large house for propagating plants, and at the east end a plant house of like size. The whole will be a splendid conservatory, built almost entirely of glass, in tasty architecture. The dairy, deer paddocks, etc., are to be located in the south part of the park. In the north part of the park will be a space of twenty- eight acres devoted to a zoological garden. Another viaduct will be built at the railroad track of the Chicago fend North-western railroad, connecting with Central Park Boulevard. The entire surface of the park will be planted with trees and shrubs, and fitted with seats, arbors, fountains, and so forth. Central Boulevard. — Central boulevard extends from the northeast corner of Central Park to a point a little north of Kinzie street. There it expands into a small square and runs directly east to Sacramento Square, or Sacramento avenue . From this it proceeds due north, 250 feet wide, until it strikes Grant avenue — a thoroughfare whose former name, Whisky Point road, was certainly not given it by a real estate fancying community. At this point the boulevard widens to 400 feet and so continues until Humboldt Park is reached. The plan for the ornamentation of the boulevard for a considerable distance south of its entry into Humboldt Park is quite elaborate, embracing a monument stand 100 feet in diameter and a floral parterre 100 feet wide by 600 feet long. This boulevard is graded (but not as yet finished) for a central drive, 50 feet wide, two side drivers, each 25 feet wide out- side of which are two equestrian roads, each 31 feet, and beyond those two side- walks, each 8 feet wide. Among all are six rows of tall elms, already set^a thriving* Humboldt Park, — This is the northernmost of the series of three, and embraces 225 acres in area, lying in section I of township 39, range 14. It is bounded north by North avenue, east by Augusta street, south by Genessee street, and west by Kedzie avenue (called here Simmons avenue). The main portion of the park has an area of 160 acres, and the south portion of 65 acres. The main entrance is from the southeast corner of the 160-acre tract, through an arc 200 feet in diameter. In this arc, on each side of the drive, will be a monu- mental fountain. The whole will be treated with macadam instead of grass plat. From this entrance the main circle drive stretches, surrounding nearly the entire area of the park. The principal feature of this entrance will be the mall, 80 feet in width and 800 feet in lenth, planted with four rows of large trees, with circular seats placed beneath them. The mall ends in an ellipse 200 feet in diameter, em- bellished with flower-beds. This will be for pedestrian travel only. The upper terrace will crown the west end of the mall. This terrace will be elevated four steps above the level, and in the center will stand a monument of Baron Von Humboldt. Four groups of large trees will be disposed about the mon- ument. This terrace will be surrounded with a handsome and very substantial stone parapet. From twelve stone steps, 30 feet in width, descending from the western side, the lower terrace, projecting out into the lake, is reached. In the center of this will be a magnificent fountain, 60 feet in diameter. Two smaller fountains will be placed at the parapet of the upper terrace. The lower terrace 332 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. is two feet above the water, which at the west side of the terrace is approached by handsome steps, affordingan excellent boat landing. The music-stand will be located on an island about 200 feet from Ae terrace ; and another and a larger island will be situated west of this, and devoted to a flower garden, pleasure ground and refectory. A large concourse for carriages and horses will be located about 300 feet from, and west of the terraces. Here, water will be provided for horses, and other conveniences arranged. Opposite the ramble, and leading into it from the lake, will be a diminutive " Mammoth Cave." This will have an entrance for boats from the lake. It will also have an entrance from the west. A passage, 400 feet in length, will lead from the boat entrance into a chamber 30 feet wide, 50 feet long and 12 feet high, The ceiling will be supported by natural arches and embellished with stalactites. The light will enter through an aperture in the west side of the chamber, and just oppo- site this will be a cascade of twelve feet fall, coming from the artesian well. Out of this chamber will be a winding passage through to the Ramble. On the western shore of the lake it is designed to have a large rock or cliff of 16 feet elevation and 300 feet in width, accessible to carriages. A Swiss chalet will be provided on this rock, to be used as a place for resting and refreshment. Large bird islands will be located in different parts of the lake. This lake covers an area of thirty-nine acres, and will afford three-quarters of a mile sailing in a straight line. The scenery all about it will be variegated and interesting. In the southern portion of the park will be a meadow plat, 1,000 feet in length and 700 feet in width. On the west side of it will be a " river," with islands, bridges, bowers, etc. It takes its rise from another artesian well at the south en- trance to the park, and empties into the lake. At its mouth a massive stone bridge will span it. The park will have, when completed, three artesian wells, located as follows : The one now completed, in the north part of the park ; one in the center of the terrace, and another in the southwest corner of the park. The completed well is 1,115 feet deep, and flows 600,000 gallons per day. Around the south well will be a monumental pavilion ; over the north well, a vine-covered arbor ; and around the center well, a large basin. Around the meadow borders, in the south part of the park, will be a forest, through which winds the south branch of the main serpentine drive. A strip of 750 feet width across the northeast corner of the park is now completed. History of Lands Around Douglas Park. — Of the history of tracts in the neighborhood of Douglas Park, there is but one episode at hand of sufficient note to be mentioned here. The forty acres lying between Twelfth and Sixteenth streets, and some distance west of Kedzie avenue, is Daniel Goodwin's subdivision, purchased by him four years ago at $500 per acre. ' The last piece sold from this brought $3,500 per acre. This has a north front on Twelfth street, which is block I. Blocks 3 and 5 were sold at the same time, and to the same party, S. J. Walker, for $2,500 per acre ; block 2 is now owned by Hon. Lucius Fairchild, of Wiscon- sin ; block 6 belongs to Mr. Davidson, who paid, some time ago, $2,000 per acre. Garrabrant & Hyde purchased, in September, 1871, block 4 of this subdivision. They paid $2,500 per acre for it. The whole is now held at from $4,500 to $5,000 per acre. Around Central Park. — Just east of the southern terminus of Central boule- PARKS OF CHICAGO. 333 vard, and north of the park, is Harding's subdivision of the west half of the north- east quarter of section 11. Mr. J. M. Mason purchased five acres, being block 13 of this tract, in 1869. He paid $1,400 per acre. In two weeks he sold it for $1,750 per acre to Mr. Wetherell. Eighteen months thereafter Mr. Wetherell dis- posed of it to Mr. Phinney at $2,500 per acre. In the same manner, Mr. Mason bought blocks 6, 7 and 8 of this subdivision, at $1,600 per acre. In six months thereafter he received from non-residents $1,800 and $2,000 per acre. These par- ties have refused $3,300 per acre for block 8. In Morton's subdivision of the east half of the northwest quarter of section 1 1, Mr. Mason bought, in the fall of 1869, a tract of J. F. McCauley, at $1,600 per acre, who sold a part of it again the same year at $2,000. Mr. Mason also pur- chased, in 1869, a block of five acres in the east half of the northeast quarter of section 11, with frontage on Chicago avenue, of J. F. Pearson, at $1,350 per acre. He sold it, in the following September, to John F. Weage, for $2,000 per acre. The latter gentleman now asks $4,000 per acre for it. Block 14 of this subdivision, adjoining block 14 on the east, was purchased eight years ago at about $200 per acre, and sold six years ago to Thomas Chamberlin for $600 per acre. Mr. Cham- berlin sold it last April to Isaac E. Scott at $3,600 per acre, and he in turn has con- veyed five lots at $60 per foot, or at the rate of $8,000 per acre. Blocks n and 14 wex^e formerly owned by Benjamin Lombard, who sold it to Mr. Chamberlin, six years ago, at $600 per acre. Mr. Chamberlin still owns it, and has refused $5,000 per acre for the property. In October, 1868, John H. Dunham sold blocks 10, 15 and 16, in Hamlin's sub- division of the west half of the northeast quarter of section 11, to Henry M. Thompson, for $10,000, fifteen acres. Soon afterwards Mr. Thompson sold block 10 to Wm. C. Dixon for $3,000. In March, 1870, Mr. Dixon sold the same to Wm. H. Phinney for $9,000. In the spring of 1872, Mr. Phinney sold 100 feet of this at $40 per foot, to Wallace A. Lowell. Mr. Phinney still owns a portion of the block. In October, 1872, Mr. Phinney sold seven lots from block 10 to Isaac Claflin for $6,000. He holds his remaining interest in this block at $100 per foot. Twenty acres, lying on both sides of the boulevard in the southwest quarter of the southeast quarter of the northeast quarter of section 11, was sold by Mr. Han- cock, of Boston, in the fall of 1872, to Mr. Gerrish, of that city, for $50,000. Mr. Gerrish sold it in the following May to William' Deering, of Portland, Maine, for $68,000. It is now held at $100,000. In August, 1864 Wm. J. Morton sold to Helen M. Kelly the east half of the southeast quarter of the northeast quarter of section 1 1, twenty acres, with north and south fronts on the boulevard, for $4,500. In January, 1869, Helen M. Kil- patrick {ne'e Kelly) sold the tract to Henry W. Blodgett, for $12,000. In February, 1869, the south half of the above tract was sold to Fred. A. Weage and John F. Ebarhardt, for $15,000. These parties sold it in 1870 to Lewis P. Haywood for $20,000. Mr. Haywood subdivided it, and it is known as Haywood's subdivision. In T.872, he sold block I on the east half of the ten acres to F. A. Bibber, of Port- land, Maine, for $16,000. Within two months thereafter Mr. Bibber sold three lots at $40, and three at $50 per foot. These lots front on the boulevard. The balance is now held at $60 per foot. Phinney's subdivision of ten acres, lying north of the north ten of the twenty-acre 334 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. tract owned by Deering et a/., was bought by Mr. Phinney, in December, 1869, ot John C. Grierson and Wm. C. Lawrence, for $16,000. It has been sold out in 25- feet lots at from $250 to $300 each. In July, 1872, Samuel W. Kroff purchased thirty lots in this subdivision for $10,000. Mr. Kroff has sold, this year, six lots at $650 each. R. P. Blanchard owns the following tracts : Two hundred feet on the southeast corner of Kedzie avenue and Madison street ; 95 feet on the southwest corner of the same streets ; 300 feet north front on Madison street, at the southeast corner of Spaulding avenue. All the above tracts, are held at from $75 to $100 per foot. Mr. B. also owns twenty lots in Kimball's subdivision. Over fifty acres, with west and north front on Central Park, on its eastern side, constitutes the Central Park addition. The east half of this twenty-five acres, was bought, in 1868, by Shortall, Busby et at., at about $1,000 per acre. Wm. D. Web- ster bought the west half about the same time, at $1,500 per acre, and sold it the next year at $3,000 yer acre, to a Mr. Douglas. Lots in this addition sell at from $60 to $70 per foot. Next south of this is the Bradley & Honore subdivision, eighty acres. Mr. Blanchard owns thirty lots in this, worth $750 each. This subdivision is the west half of the northeast quarter of section 14, 39, 13. Nineteen acres east of the eastern edge of the park is known as Peck's sub- division. It was purchased by Andrew Schall, three years ago, at $3,500 per acre. He has sold it out at an average price of $9,000 per acre. The Central Park second addition was purchased, in 1869, by Smith & Bullock, at $3,000 per acre. It has been subdivided and sold at an average price of $9,000 per acre. The ten acres next west of this was offered by Mr. Austin, the owner, in 1869, at $1,000 per acre. It was recently sold for the owner, Mr. Jackson, by W. D. Kerfoot, at $4,500 per acre. Jackson paid, in 1872, $4,000 per acre. The Peck property, being the southeast quarter of section 13, was offered, in 1869, at $1,000 per acre. It is now worth $4,000 per acre on an average. The Stevens tract, with a south front on Harrison street, forty acres in all, was purchased by F. A. Stevens, in 1868, at a price of $1,000 per acre. It. is now worth $6,000 per acre. Next east of the park, and between Kinzie and Lake streets, is a tract of five acres owned by Dr. Dyche. He bought it in 1869 at $2,500 per acre. He asks now $100 per foot for it. John B. Drake owns ten acres next east of this, which he purchased in 1867 at $400 per acre. It is now worth $6,000 per acre. The twenty acres next east, together with the next twenty acres south of it, was sold out at trustee's sale in 1867, and bought in at $350 per acre. Within a year it sold at $1,000 per acre. In 1870, two years after, it was sold again by Loomis, Potwin & Smith, for $3,000 per acre. The Park Commissioners took the south twenty-two acres of this forty, in 1869, and paid $3,000 per acre for it. The west half of the north half of the north twenty acres was bought by Mr. Bushnell, of a Californian, for $4,000 per acre. The east half is owned by a gentleman residing in Alabama. The property is now worth $6,500 per acre, having increased to that value from $350, in six vears. PARKS OF CHICAGO. 335 The next tract east is ten acres owned by W. D. and C. A. Kerfoot. It changed hands several times before they purchased, which was in 1866. Was once traded for oil lands, when the excitement was at its height. In 1 866, the Messrs. Kerfoot paid $250 per acre. Now, in 1873, it is worth $7,000 per acre, or twenty-eight times its value seven years before, equaling an annual advance of 400 per cent. The ten acres lying next east of the Kerfoot tract is owned by John Tyrell, who bought it of R. K. Winslow, in 1872, at $4,500 per acre. Mr. Tyrell sub- divided it, and is selling lots now at figures which are at the rate of $10,000 per acre. Arotind Humboldt Park. — Thompson's subdivision of forty acres lying north of the lands of the first series of the Humboldt Residence Association, and bounded north by North avenue, was subdivided by H. M. Thompson and sold at auction, shortly before the location of the parks, realizing from $100 to $150 per lot. Mr. Thompson was delighted with what he considered a very good price. The lots are now worth from $800 to $1,400 each, according as they lie. At the northeast corner of the park, block 7, ten acres, in Borden's subdivision, was purchased in February, 1870, by Isaac Crosby, for $14,000. In June, 1872, he sold it to E. D. Hosmer for $35,000. It is now worth $45,000. Eighty acres lying next west of the park, with 132 feet east front upon it, was pur- chased by A. and L. S. Pierce, in February, 1869, of Isaac Cook, for $20,000. Within six months afterwards the Messrs. Pierce were offered $2,000 per acre. A party came in and offered $1,800, which was immediately refused. He immediately increased his offer to $2,000 per acre, with a like result. Two weeks before they purchased, the tract was offered at $400 per acre. Its average value now is $5,000 per acre, some choice blocks being held at $6,000. Lots in this tract are now selling at from $20 to $60 per foot. The north half of this eighty acres was sold by Mr. Waller to Weage, Eberhardt and others, at a heavy advance over what was paid by the parties of whom they purchased. The forty acres lying west of the boulevard, and opposite Hansbrough's sub- division, has been owned for thirty years by Asahel Pierce. He gave $320 for the whole. It has never been on the market. In 1868 he was offered $24,000, all in cash, but declined selling. It is now w r orth $200,000, or $5,000 per acre. This forty has a frontage both south on the park and east on the boulevard. The southeast quarter of section 35, lying north of this forty-acre tract, and also with east frontage on the boulevard, is owned by the original patentee, Edward Simons. While in his hands this property has risen to a value of $3,000 per acre, or $480,000. Thirty days after the Messrs. Pierce purchased their eighty acre tract, the forty acres lying south was bought at $1,000 per acre, just one hundred per cent, greater than the price paid for the Pierce property. William Waller was the purchaser. Clifford's addition, lying in the angle, with north and west fronts on the park, and containing sixty-one acres, was entered in 1852 by F. C. Clarke, who owned it until his death. Obadiah Jackson purchased it of the heirs in 1869, paying about $1,000. He sold most of it, in 1872, to Mr. Waters, at $3,000 per acre. Mr. Waters has sold it out to different parties, at a large advance. It is now worth $5,000 per acre. Eighty acres, east half of the northeast quarter of section 35, 40, 13, was pur- chased for other parties by Henry L. Hill, in 1866, at $400 per acre. In 1868, he 336 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. sold a portion of it to Wm. A. Bill, at $1,000 per acre. He joined with the other owners in subdividing the tract, and the lots are nearly all disposed of at from $350 to $400 per lot, giving an average value of $3,500 per acre. Blanchard's subdivision, seventeen and one-half acres, with frontage on Fuller- ton avenue, the boulevard, and Milwaukee avenue, was transferred, in 1869, by Samuel Hice to R. P. Blanchard and L. S. Thomas, at $1,000 per acre. They im- mediately subdivided it, and commenced selling in lots at $125 each, in 1869. The values steadily increased until they have now reached $625 each. One hundred acres lying south of this, being composed of the northwest quarter of the southeast quarter of section 1, 39, 13, and blocks 1, 2, 3, 4 and 7 of Clifford's addition, is owned in undivided interests as follows : Ira Holmes, 25 acres ; Hutch- inson & Colt, 15 acres; and the Cook County Land Company, 60 acres. Mr. Holmes purchased one year ago of C. A. Gregory, for $3,000 per acre. Mr. Gregory purchased the entire tract, four years ago, at less than $2,000 per acre. It is now worth $6,000 per acre. One hundred acres lying east of the above belongs to the Sufferns estate. Mr, Sufferns entered it thirty years ago. It has never been sold. Seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars was offered for it recently. It is held at $1,000,000. Between Armitage avenue and Palmer place, Messrs. Mason & Mills own the entire west frontage and a portion of the east frontage. To show the enhancement in values during the last three years we will take, as a criterion, the 10-acre strip, east front, at the point south of Palmer place, fronting the boulevard. In 1870, it was purchased at the rate of $1,000 per acre ; in 1871, was transferred for $2,600 per acre ; and some of it has since been retailed, in small parcels, at the rate of $3,500 to $4,000 per acre. It is now held at about $40 per foot. Beebe's subdivision consists of about 80 acres of eligible and very valuable land, lying half a mile west of Humboldt Park and four miles from the depot at Madison street bridge. The ground is high and well drained, and lies upon both sides of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad track. A continuous paved drive reaches the tract from the center of the city, via Grand avenue and Lake street. Every lot is supplied with pure artesian well water, free to the consumer. The commutation fare to the station is about equal to street car rates. The tract is bounded east by Central Park avenue, west by Hamlin avenue, north by North avenue, and south by Division street. The plan of subdivision is an excellent one, and the whole tract is desirable for residence purposes. The tract is owned by an association, of which G. D. Beebe is secretary. They purchased about two years ago. The lots are held at from $20 to $25 per foot. Parties desiring to build will receive assistance and favorable terms. CITY PLEASURE GROUNDS. Lincoln Park and its Vicissitudes — Union Park — A Woman's Notion — Jefferson Park — Lake Park — Mirior Public Pleasure Grounds. There are entirely within the city limits, surrounded by residences (except in the case of Lake Park, which is mostly surrounded by business edifices), the following public parks : Union Park, ...... 23 acres. Jefferson Park, . . . . . • 5-| " Vernon Park, . . . . . . 3 " Ellis Park, ...... 2 " Lake Park, . . . . . 40 " Wicker Park, . .... 5 " Washington Square, . . . . . 21 " The total area of these seven minor parks is 81 acres, which, added to the joint area of the South and West Parks, makes up a grand total of 2,353 acres of parks, in and about Chicago. At present this arrangement affords an acre of park room for every 180 inhabitants ; so that when another quarter of a century shall have quadrupled our population, and reduced the park area to an acre for every 720 persons, no man will claim, if any now does, that the present allowance is over- liberal. Lincoln Park. — This is to the North Division of the city what the South and West Park systems are to those divisions respectively. Its somewhat less area is offset by its greater proximity ; and as yet it is of more public benefit by far than either of the other large parks, having been some years under process of improve - ment, and being located near a densely populated section of the city, Lincoln Park lies to the east of Clark street, taking in all the territory between that chief thoroughfare of the north division and Lake Michigan, from North avenue on the south to Diversey street on the north. These, at least, are the boundaries determined upon by the Commissioners, which give the park a total area of about 310 acres. History. — It originally contained about sixty acres, and was set off for a public park from the lands of the Chicago Cemetery, by an ordinance of the city passed October 21st, 1864. At that time it bore the name of Lake Park, which was after- wards unofficially changed to Lincoln Park, and the grounds are known now by that name only. On the 10th day of February, 1837, the State Legislature authorized the city to purchase, of the Trustees of the Illinois and Michigan Canal Company, 22 338 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. the east half of the southeast quarter of section 33, 40, 14, and to use the same as & cemetery. The purchase was made December 22nd, 1842, and a patent conveying it given to the City of Chicago by the Governor of the State. The north part of the tract was used for burial purposes until the year i860, at which time the Com- mon Council passed an ordinance prohibiting its further use for that purpose. After the passage of this law, efforts were begun and continued, at intervals, to have it dedicated to the people for a park. After four years, this effort triumphed and a law was passed to that effect. In June, 1865, $10,000 was appropriated to com- mence the improvements, and in the following September a plan drawn by S. Nel- son, lands cape gardener, was submitted and approved. The work has been slowly continued, by annual appropriations, undercharge of Nelson & Benson. An act of the Legislature passed February 8th, 1869, explained the boundaries and provided for its improvement, and appointed Messrs. E. B. McCagg, Andrew Nelson, John B. Turner, Joseph Stockton, and Jacob Rehm, the first Board of Com- missioners. In 1871 the appointing of the Commissioners was made a prerogative of the Chief Executive ol the State, and in November of that year the Governor ap- pointed the following: Belden F. Culver, President ; S/M. Nickerson, Treasurer; E. D. Taylor, Secretary and Superintendent ; W. H. Bradley and Francis W. Kales. In the great conflagration the assessment rolls were burnt up, and owing to their destruction and other causes, the Commissioners have not yet acquired all the land intended to be included in the Park, and the final plans still hang upon their adoption. But the plan of Mr. Nelson, wiih some modifications, will probably be agreed upon. Enough has been done to create a great desire, on the part of all public spirited citizens, to see the good work pushed forward, which will be done as rapidly as possible. The following amounts have already been expended : In 1865 .. $ 4.546.05 " 1866 _ 14,883.66 " 1867 19,759.23 " 1868 17,8-19.31 " 1S69 31,830.72 " 1870... 38,971-61 " 1871 17,254-33 " 1872... 86,880.71 Total January 1 , 1873, $231,975.62 The statement of the Park Commissioners, on the 1st of April, 1873, showed a balance of funds on hand and in the bank of $9,227.12. In addition to the above, the Board have expended $180,000 on the beautiful Lake Shore Drive, which winds along the lake shore on the east border of, and far beyond, the park, and in the purchase of lands for this drive lying beyond the park limits. This drive is really the most attractive feature of the park, and a Chicago institution sui generis, the Ocean Boulevard of Brooklyn being the nearest approx- imation to it. This drive, which already stretches two miles or more along the lake beach, is to be at once extended southward nearly to the mouth of the river, and soon northward to Evanston — a stretch of twelve miles of broad, hard, PARKS OF CHICAGO. 339 pebbly driveway, washed by the waves, and commanding a splendid view of the (to the vision ) boundless blue expanse of Lake Michigan. This drive is, as might be expected, largely resorted to, especially on Saturdays, when music by a band of thirty pieces, under distinguished leadership, contributes its pleasurable and refining influence, and on Sundays, when boats and music on the water add to the eclat of the scene. Amongst the mountain of litigation which the friends and officers of the Park enterprise have had to surmount, that at which they are toiling at the present writing, is the contest of the special assessment of $1,200,000 for the purchase of the additional grounds referred to above. The case was decided against the con- testants on every point by th4 Circuit Court, from which it was appealed to the Supreme Court of the State, where the judgment of the lower court has just been reversed, on several grounds. The chief of these are (1) that the assessors of Lake View and North Chicago, acting jointly, were not a proper authority for levying taxes ; and (2) that the apportionment of benefits and consequent taxes was arbit- rary and not uniform. Union Park. — The history of Union Park is thus told in the " Real Estate and Building Journal," of April 19, 1873 : In 1853, Reuben Taylor took the initiatory step toward establishing the park, and this is how it was : Standing at the door of his old homestead, which stood a little north of what is now Park avenue, he observed, one day, a surveying party dividing the site of Union Park into lots 20 x 100 feet, with 10 feet alleys, for the then proprietors, Messrs. Hayes and Johnson. He went over to Billy Carpenter's grocery near by, and complained about cutting the land up so. Mrs. Carpenter, who was leaning over the counter, overheard the conversa- tion, and remarked, " If I was a man I would have a park there." Uncle Reuben and Uncle Billy took kindly to the idea, and the former posted down to Hayes & Johnson's office to see what could be done. He found that they would sell it to the city for a park at a reduced figure. He went home, drew up a petition, secured a number of signers, and sent it to the Common Council, and he arid Mr. Carpenter went down to lobby it through. Opposition came from the Randolph street alder- men and others, and the fight waxed hot. Finally, after six months of discussion, the Randolph street men agreed to support the measure if they would extend the boundaries named in the petition so as to take in the " forks of the road," which meant the point where Lake and Washington " forked " on Randolph. This was done, and an ordinance passed only to be vetoed by Mayor Grey. But the measure had got so much headway that the Council passed it over the veto, and the city purchased of Hayes, Johnson and others, for $60,000, eighteen acres. The park is laid out with walks and drives in all manner of pretty shapes ; the center is occu- pied by a pond in the shape of three partly formed circles, which at the two narrow parts is spanned with handsome iron bridges, and at the north end a rustic bridge and grotto underneath leads out from the shore to a diminutive island Swan, ducks, and other water fowl, float gracefully over its surface. A little north of the center are the cages of the animals, of which there is a fair collection, and several eagles, owls, and other wild birds, live happily in a cage near by. The beautiful grass plats are studded with trees, fountains, rustic seats and arbors, and, towards the south side, is the grand observatory in rustic material, affording, at its apex, a 34-0 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. beautiful view of the park and a large portion of the city. It is a favorite haunt of promenaders and driving parties . Jefferson Park. — On this beautiful tract of 5 3-5 acres, bounded on the north and south by Monroe and Adams streets, and on the east and west by Throop and Loomis streets, the city has, since its purchase of Judge Thomas in 1848, for $1,200, expended about $40,000 in improvements . Although less pretentious than some of the larger parks, it is a perfect little gem, made so by the work of accom- plished artizans. Ponds and fountains, rustic bowers and bridges, stone cascades, pretty elevations and depressions, and the evergreens and shrubbery, all combine to make it one of the coziest and most delightful resorts in the city. Its beauty is heightened by the excellent class of mansions and cultivated grounds which sur- round it on every side, and of these the presence of the park has in turn greatly heightened the value. L Part VI. SUBURBS OF CHICAGO. LAKE VIEW. This is a large township, extending north from the city limits, a distance of over 5^ miles, and from the lake shore west from two to three miles. The south boundary is but two and a half miles from Clark street bridge. Its natural features are among the best in the vicinity of Chicago . The wooded section, in the southern edge of which Lincoln park is situated, extends along the lake shore, far to the north, and many miles beyond the northern limits of Lake View. This gives the place the very desirable advantage of grove lots throughout its length and breadth and affords many very pretty residence sites which hav e been largely taken advantage of by citizens of Chicago whose means enabled them to enclose large lots and build handsome homes upon them. The place is thickly set- tled as a consequence of these advantages, and its nearness to business centers in Chicago. The area of the township is about ten square miles. The lands in Lake View attracted early attention. The settlement dates back over a period of twenty years, and many of the lots having, during this long stretch of years, been subjected to constant improvement, the place bears something of the appearance of the older suburbs about the cities in the East. Viewed from the observatory of the new United States Marine Hospital, the whole village resembles a beautiful park. The government of the township (incorporated in 1865) is in the hands of a Board of Trustees, who have control of thoroughfares, bridges, public improvements, buildings, the police force, and generally of all matters usually subjected to munic- ipal rule. The routes of approach to Lake View from the city are as follows : One line of horse-cars leave Clark street bridge every twelve minutes, running north on North Clark street to Diversey street one-half mile within the limits of the place and connecting there with a dummy for Graceland, which runs once an hour. This trip occupies fifty minutes. A second line of horse-c#rs leave Clark street bridge at like intervals, and run on Clark street to Lincoln avenue — opposite the principal entrance to Lincoln Park — and then on Lincoln avenue in a northwest direction, and reaching the southern limit of Lake View at Fullerton avenue, one mile west from the lake shore. The Milwaukee branch of the Chicago and Northwestern rail- road runs through the suburb north and south with a daily service of twelve trains each way. In addition to the second track now being laid on this road, there are now under consideration two other projects looking to the development of the Lake View district by new railroads, one to run out of Chicago on Sheffield avenue, through Lake View to Evanston, on a route east of the Milwaukee track ; the other, a branch through Bowmanville to Evanston, to be constructed by the Northwestern railroad company. The greatest degree of activity in improvements, such as sidewalks, traveling facilities, etc., at Lake View, commenced but recently, the people feeling assured that the fine location and natural attractions of the place would of themselves in- 344 ITS SUBURBS. sure a prosperous future. But the intense action which has constantly character- ized the development of localities which must rely almost solely upon what man can do t o make them attractive, awakened them to the necessity of throwing off their par tial inertia and contend for all the auxiliary advantages which could be secured. Their natural growth made tree planting unnecessary, and the high and sloping nature of the ground, with its subsoil of gravel or sand, provided so much natural drainage that this adjunctive advantage could not assume the degree of im- Residence of Daniel Goodwin. portance attaching to it in many other suburbs. Recently, a general system of improvement has been inaugurated, A number of double ring brick sewers are ordered. One on Sunnyside (Ravenswood) avenue, from Ashland avenue to the north branch of Chicago river, and others on Sulzer, Nellie and Surf streets, each running to the lake. Road beds of cinder and gravel are ordered on a number of other thoroughfares. Ashland avenue has been opened to a width of eighty feet, and extending through Ravenswood southward to Belmont avenue, the point of its intersection with Lincoln avenue. This will be improved into a boulevard, giving a short diago- nal carriage route from the western part of the township to the center of Lincoln Park. The Ashland avenue improvement will doubtless be continued southward until it meets the splendid improvement of that thoroughfare made within the city LAKE VIEW. 345 limits by S. J. Walker, Esq. When this is completed, Ashland avenue will be one of the handsomest drives within and about the city. Graceland avenue, the eastern terminus of Irving Park boulevard, and which constitutes the carriage route from Irving Park to the lake shore drive, has been opened to a width of ioo feet to Southfort avenue. At the river this street is pro- vided with a new iron bridge. This thoroughfare, terminating at Lincoln Park, and Residence of Frank W. Palmer. the lake shore drive, constitute an excellent system adapted to the natural contour ol the country, and were made in the interest of the whole public ; not for the special enriching of speculative proprietors. The lake shore drive is one of the finest improvements in or about Chicago, and when completed will afford a carriage way 200 feet wide, extending from Indi- ana street to Evanston — twelve miles. The whole surface will be graveled and curbed as hard and level as a floor. It is already completed as far north as the Marine Hospital in Lake View. The superior advantages of this magnificent drive, the pleasant scenery along its borders, its elevation overlooking the lake, and its course near some of the most interesting improvements in the city and country ; all these and other attractions will induce those who wish and can afford handsome home sites to settle along its borders. Already quite a number of our wealthier 34^ CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. class have tracts on which they will build superb houses, and it will be but few years before nearly all of the available ground will have been im proved in this manner. Land along this drive has doubled in value in a short time. It will in- crease four fold in the neighborhood of the city within a few years more. Graceland Cemetery, a small but beautiful tract of land, is located in Lake View. It was originally intended by the Graceland company to embr ace a consid- erable territory, but owing to the rapid advance of the city in that direction, and Residence of W. C. Goudy. the opposition by the people to its extension, it has been abandoned and the lands not already embraced within the enclosure are on the market. Ere long, interments there must cease and the field of Chicago's dead be fixed at a greater distance from the city. But the character of the lot owners, and the liberal fund provided for its perpetual decoration and care of the grounds render it certain that the cemetery will be continually increasing in beauty until it rivals Greenwood, Spring Grove, Laurel Hill, and Mount Auburn, in the center of the very best residence property in those cities. On the corner of Graceland and Ashland avenues, upon a lot donated by the Graceland Cemetery Company, an excellent brick building, 40x70 feet, is now being erected for the town High School. It will cost $15,000. It will be finished by the 1st of January, 1874. LAKE VIEW. 347 Lake View Town-hall, a substantial and well designed brick building, contain- ing, upon the first floor, some five or six rooms and offices, and overhead a large and beautiful assembly room, stands on the corner of Halsted and Addison streets, was built in 1872, at a cost of $17,000. It is used not only for municipal purposes but also for concerts, lectures and religious services. At Ravenswood, also, an annual course of lectures is given. Upon the lake shore, just north of Graceland avenue, stands the United States Residence of J. B. Waller, Esq. Marine Hospital, a magnificent stone building, 360 feet long and four stories high. It has just been completed at a cost of $500,000. Its location in the center of a lot of ten acres, upon a ridge fronting the lake, and being in full and near view of all the passing shipping of the harbor, is one, which for healthfulness, beauty and appro- priateness, cannot be surpassed anywhere. The improvement and decoration of the hospital grounds already commenced will not be completed until next season. Government buildings and grounds, every- where kept with extreme neatness and taste, are always desirable neighbors. The United States Marine Hospitals, and Soldiers' and Sailors' Homes, at Washington, Pensacola, and other places, are the centers of park neighborhoods ; and so, we confidently predict that the lake shore property in this vicinity will, within five years, present an exceptionally fine line of villa residences. 148 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Property along the lake shore within a mile of the park is worth $100 per foot. North of this it ranges from $75 to $45 per foot, according to its distance from the city. The principal owners are Messrs. B. F. Culver, W. K. Nixon, Maj. Goodwin, S. B. Chase, J. II. Rees, Thompson, J. V. LeMoyne, Hubbard, Boyden, Lill, Walker, H. G. Spafford, F. Tyler, and others. A majority of these owners are Residence of J. A. Huck. holding surplus land for certain increase. Major Daniel Goodwin owns near the Marine Hospital a beautiful home, illustrated on page 344, and six acres of taste- fully ornamented grounds surrounding it. He purchased the grounds in 1871 for $30,000. This beautiful Gothic house was erected at a cost of $40,000, and is a model for that class of residence architecture. The neat porches on the west and south sides are in fine proportion with the shapely gables of the roof. It is a commodious structure, with excellent interior arrangements, which need no description in detail. The beauty of the grounds is hardly surpassed in any of our suburban localities, and the Major is still improving them. The investment in the property is worth $50,000. LAKE VIEW. 349 Mr. S. H. Kerfoot, for many years prominently identified with the real estate business, owns about seventy acres, also near the Marine Hospital. He purchased the tract in 1853, paying $100 per acre. He began making improvements at that time, and has continued them ever since, until now the land is worth, on the lake shore, from $100 to $150 per foot, and elsewhere its value ranges from $40 to $70 per foot. He has improved so many of his blocks by planting extra trees in regular order, opening up and grading and graveling walks and drives, and in various other ways beautifying them, that it is hard to tell which he calls his home. At present he Residence of S, B. Chase. occupies a very tastefully arranged cottage on. a block of nine acres, highly orna- mented, but his plans for his permanent dwelling on his large and exquisite grounds, extending to the lake shore, promise a homestead and surroundings une- qualed in the vicinity of Chicago. Some of the single blocks in Mr. Kerfoot's interest are worth $125,000. Mr. B. F. Culver has done at least as much as any other party for the develop- ment of the town. He first purchased a tract of ten acres in 1S66, paying $600 for it, and ten acres in the following year, paying $1,500 per acre. These two pieces of property lie between Wellington street, Barry avenue, the Evanston dummy road, and Lake View avenue, and sell now at $125 per front foot. In 1868, he bought property in Baker's subdivision at $20 per foot, which has in- creased to $100 per foot. The property known as " Culver's Lake Front Addition" was bought in 1870 at $6,000 per acre. It now sells at $100 per foot. Mr. Culver 35° CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. built the beautiful Italian villa represented on page 345, and sold it to Hon. Frank W. Palmer. Mr. Culver has spent much of his time and expended large sums of money for the benefit of the locality, and deserves the prominent mention given above.^, This is located on Barry avenue, and was erected at an expense of $24,000. It is full two stories, and attic story in height, of a very handsome design, both outside and in. The main entrance on the south side of the dwelling is massive, and orna- mented with a handsome tower, at the west side of it, which extends above the roof, Residence or Horatio G. Spafford, Esq. and culminates in a large and tastefully finished observatory. The bay features seen at the west end are among the most attractive arrangements about this building, and afford a view to the north, south, and west, of the elaborately adorned and extensive grounds about. The interior of the house is elegantly fin- ished in hard woods, and arranged with symmetry and taste. The residence of Mr. Goudy is in Wrightwood, fronting on Green Bay road (an extension of Clark street), just north of Fullerton avenue, the limit of the city. The house was erected in 1865, at an expense of more than $20,000, and the ground, with the present improvement, is now worth $50,000. It stands on a beautiful ridge, so that the basement story is above the surface of the ground in the rear, and LAKE VIEW. 351 the main entrance is only two or three steps above it in front. The style of archi- tecture is exhibited by the engraving. The grounds are ornamented with shrubbery, flowers and fountains, and covered with native trees. The front proper is upon Green Bay road, but opposite is a front, with a large veranda, overlooking Lincoln Park and Lake Michigan, furnishing an unobstructed and magnificent view from every window. There is no place combining better the advantages of city and country than this spot. (See page 346.) Mr. J. B. Waller owns 53 acres of improved property, worth $80,000, and upon a portion of it has built his own homestead, the handsome residence represented. The house is a veiy large one, of a very substantial build, and looks like the fine old mansions to be seen in long-settled districts of the East. The reader can judge of the liberal outlay needed to build such a house and adorn the grounds about it, by a glance at the picture. The cupola commands a view of Lake Michigan and a large radius of country around. The material of the house is brick. The interior is elaborately finished in hardwood, and its fine apartments are spacious, pleasant and comfortable. The cost of the structure was about $75,000. (See page 347.) The spacious grounds surrounding Mr. Huck's house compare favorably with the best planned of those before mentioned in this article. They front 500 feet on Fullerton av enue, and extend south on Clark street 600 feet. Although the outside of the house is of plain and simple architecture, there are few dwellings more com- fortably arr anged inside. The first floor is devoted to parlors, dining room, family sleeping apartments, and kitchen. The second floor contains a large chamber, parlor, and several sleeping rooms, with all modern appliances and improvements. The site is valued at $225,000. Mr. Huck owns, also, a fine tract of twenty acres adjoining Ravenswood, in Lake View, and has sown it to grass — a preparation for subdivision and sale in lots and blocks next spring. (See page 348.) The dw elling of Mr. S. B. Chase, of Chase Brothers, the abstract men, is the modest but attractive villa shown on page 349. It stands in a 10-acre lot on the north side of Belden avenue, between the dummy road and the lake. The value of the house and improvements is about $18,000 ; and the ground for which Mr. Chase paid only $70 per acre, less than twenty years ago. Indeed, some land West of his present homestead, of which Mr. Chase disposed at the rate of $12,000 per acre, was bought by him in 1852 as low ab $50 per acre. Aggravating reminis- cence ! Mr. Spafford's cottage home is located on a triangular lot containing five acres, in one of the most attractive spots in Lake View. The lot is bounded by Evanston road on the west ; Halsted street, east ; and Graceland avenue on the south. Just across Halsted street is the site of the U. S. Marine Hospital, and on the south are the grounds owned by S. H. Kerfoot, both of which are noticed elsewhere. So that on the south and east an extensive and beautiful lawn prospect stretches, instead of a view blocked by rows of buildings. Mr. Spafford has improved his home site in a very artistic manner, and at a large outlay. His homestead is worth $75,000. 352 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. HYDE PARK. The village of Hyde Park constitutes one of the oldest and best known, as it is one of the most easily accessible, suburbs of Chicago. It combines to a degree only rivaled by Evanston the delights of rus in tirbe ; its northern boundary line is the southern limit of the city. It is owned by enterprising men, and is pro- vided with those religious, social and commercial advantages which, added to excel- lent topographical situation, comprise the best recommendation of a suburb. A first-class hotel, beautiful residences, fine drives, delightful lake privileges, and first- class society have given Hyde Park a reputation of an enviable character. One of the oldest suburbs of the city, it has kept pace in the march of improvements with its younger rivals, and shows, each succeeding year, an appreciation in the value of its territory, an increase in the number of its residents, and is in the extent of its useful public improvements probably the superior of any other suburb. Hyde Park, in this article, will be considered entirely distinct from the adjacent suburbs of Park- side, Cornell, Kensington, Burnside and South Chicago. It will be taken to em- brace the district only which is incorporated under the name of the village of Hyde Park, and which lies between the lake and State street, and the city limits and Sixty-seventh street. In no respect is the intelligent enterprise of the Hyde Parkers shown more fully than in the recent action of the village authorities in providing a regular system of waterworks for the village. A crib out in the lake, and tunnel communication with the waterworks, will furnish before many months a most admirable supply of aqua pura to the inhabitants of the village. Gas is also manufactured within the corpo- rate limits ; there is a thorough system of drainage ; and that other necessity of a prosperous town, a regular police force, patrols the streets. The force numbers 14 men, and although their position is a comparative sinecure, they exercise a beneficial effect upon the behavior of parties occasionally driving from the city to the suburb. The hotel already referred to has a capacity for 200 guests. It is located near the beach of Lake Michigan, and from it a fine view is had of the whole lake front. A large female seminary was also established at the same time with the hotel, viz., in 1859, by C. B. Waite, Esq. Hyde Park has a village charter, under which it possesses all the powers of self government known to any city, enabling it to carry on its own local improvements. The city officers are Hon. C. M. Cady, of Kenwood, Mayor, or Chairman of the Board of Trustees, with Messrs. E. G. Clark, M. Doyle, A. D. Waldron, L. G. Fisher, Lester Brodner, Jr., H. Vandarbilt, W. E. Hale, and D. N. Barney, as the other members of the Board. The town corporation extends from the city limits of Chicago, Thirty-ninth street, twelve miles south. It is bounded on the west by State street, and on the east by Lake Michigan and the Indiana state line. A thorough system of drainage has reclaimed hundreds of acres within these boundaries, at one time thought to be below the level of the lake. HYDE PARK. 353 The town is amply provided with means of communication with the city. The boulevards supply a beautiful drive, and the railroad accommodations furnished by the Illinois Central company are first-class. So long ago as 1855, the railroad company entered into a contract for the running of the Hyde Park accommodation trains, and at present there are a dozen trains daily, at a fare of ten cents the trip. The village contains about 3,000 people. It has excellent church and school accommodations, improved streets and sidewalks. The first preliminary survey of Hyde Park was made by Mr. Paul Cornell, in the fall of 1855. A tract of land embracing some 300 acres was platted the follow- ing spring. Mr. Cornell subsequently sold a portion of the plat to the Illinois Central railroad company, andla contract was made for the running of the Hyde Park passenger train, which was put on the same season. The pavement, however, was made slowly, and but little had been accomplished when the breaking out of the war diverted the attention of the people from peace- ful pursuits. ' In the conflict which ensued, the enterprising projectors of Hyde Park suffered in common with all others. The people had no surplus funds to invest in suburban property ; the excitement of the rapidly-following events chained them to the city ; and the future of Hyde Park looked exceedingly gloomy. But the cloud lifted as the season of strife passed away, and in 1867 the great system of public parks, which was destined to aid so materially the^ development of Hyde Park, was conceived. As a result of the most strenuous and persistent efforts of a few enterprising gentlemen, the Legislature of the State of Illinois passed an act authorizing the organization of a Board of South Park Commissioners, whose duty it should be to locate, lay out, and improve the great South Park. The provisions of the bill were speedily taken advantage of, as already related in our first chapter on " Parks of Chicago." Already the work accomplished toward the completion of these parks is great, and gives assurance that the further improvements to be made will render the magnificent South Park of Chicago the successful rival of Central Park of New York. The fact that all these fine improvements lie within the limits of Hyde Park, will explain the rise in values, within seven or eight years, in that suburb ; of lands from $100 per acre to $15,000 per acre, at which some of its choice locations are now quoted. For lots, the demand during the past season has been good, and many sales have been made. The general range of prices has been from $50 to $75 per foot frontage ; but in districts as yet unfurnished with gas, water, and other improve- ments, a lower figure has been taken. Hyde Park offers sterling advantages in the shape of religious, social, and edu- cational institutions. At each of the stations on the Illinois Central railroad, located within the boundaries of the town of Hyde Park, and known as Forty-third street, Kenwood, Hyde Park, South Park, and Woodlawn, there is found excellent society and admirable school facilities. At Kenwood is a good brick school house, and a school for young ladies ; at Hyde Park, a kindergarten, admirably kept by Miss Knox. Among other churches, the following are to be noted : a Congre- gational church on Forty-seventh street ; an Episcopalian church on Hyde Park 23 354 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. avenue, near Fiftieth street ; a Presbyterian church on Oak street, in Hyde Park, costing $50,000 ; and a Catholic church on Fifty-fifth street. The residents of Hyde Park are taken from the best classes of our citizens. The many elegant residences, costing from $20,000 to $50,000, attest the fact that wealth has found an agreeable abode in the village, while the large number of pretty, modest residences, scattered throughout the whole village, bears equally strong evidence of the yet more important fact that the society of this charming suburb is not exclusive, and that all respectable citizens can find a welcome and pleasant society within its borders. Among the residents are Messrs. Hamilton B. Bogue, Geo. M. Bogue, member of the Board of County Commissioners, Hon. Leonard Swett, E. W. Russell, John Middleton, W. E. Hale, C. H. Phillips, D. A. Hills, L. A. Smith, Wm. Lears,. Paul Cornell, H. N. Hibbard, A. B. Dodson, H. A. Hopkiss, Jas. Morgan, P. L. Morgan, N. C. Parkins, W. P. Gray, J. C. Ayer, Capt. T. G. Butlin, Lyman Baird,. G. S. Ingraham, County Attorney, J. P. Root, J. B. Smith, H. F. Chase, R. S. Thompson, J. Irving Pierce, S. Benjamin, J. H. Gray, C. M. Smith, of Bradner, Smith & Co., and Judge B. F. Ayre. OAKLAND. This attractive little suburb is situated at the city limits, and serves as a stopping place for both city and suburban residents. The growth of the place has been rapid, and the settlement is quite extensive. The ground is admirably suited to suburban purposes, lying high and being well wooded. The residences already erected at Oakland stretch away back to Wabash avenue, a distance over one-half mile, and are all of excellent construction. Among the residents in Oakland may be mentioned ex-senator Trumbull and his brother Geo. Trumbull. The ex-senator has an elegant home, ornamented with that studied grace which is characteristic of the cultivated taste. One among the many reasons which the ex-senator gives for feeling pleasure at being relieved from his senatorial duties at Washington is that he is thereby enabled to spend more time at his suburban home, in pleasant Oakland, than formerly. Among the other residents at Oakland are G.'G. Pope, F. P. Van Wick, J. P. Bonfield, L. Huntington, Charles Huntington, S. Faulkner, Charles Cleaver, A. R. Miller, G. H. Miller, M. Hardy, and L. G. Fisher. Lots sell readily at fair rates, showing steady increase in values since the founda- tion of the suburb. KKN WOOD. 355 KENWOOD. If it were not invidious to draw a distinction between the many prosperous suburban towns in the town of Hyde Park, it might perhaps be in order to say that the suburb known as Kenwood was decidedly the most aristocratic of them all. But, bowing to the shades of republican simplicity, we will be content with the expression that the residences erected in Kenwood are nearly all first-class ; that many of them are imposing in , appearance, and that a few are fully equal to the N. B. Judd's Residence. finest structures found in any of the suburbs of this city. Kenwood is the Lake Forest of the south, without the exclusiveness of its northern rival. Kenwood is located about six miles from the Central depot, and is the next station after passing Oakland. It is well supplied with railroad accommodations, and offers the best of school and church privileges. A fine church structure has been erected by thi Episcopalians, and services are held every returning sabbath. Some of the residence property in this suburb is held at prices ranging from $100 to $150 per foot. Lots located farther from the depot can be purchased at $75 per 356 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. front foot. In the neighborhood of the residences of Potter Palmer and H. H. Honore, on the grand boulevard, just due west of Kenwood, land is held at $200 per front foot. Some of the residences in this suburb are admirable. The grounds owned by Mr. W. K. Akerman, treasurer of the Illinois Central railroad, located at this suburb, are very beautifully laid out. They comprise 2^ acres of rolling ground, and are richly improved. The residence of Mr. Akerman is delightfully situated in the center of the grounds, is two stories and basement in elevation, and of a chaste style of architecture. It is fitted throughout in the most modern style. The Hon. G. W. Waite also owns a handsome residence. The handsome suburban residence of the Hon. N. B. Judd, Collector of the port of Chicago, is situated on Forty-seventh street, in Kenwood. The structure cost $40,000, and is most elegantly appointed throughout. It stands in a tract of ten acres, laid out in pleasant walks and drives. Mr. Frasier, of D. B. Fisk & Co., has a fine residence in this suburb. Among the other residents of Kenwood are to be mentioned the Hon. Charles H. Hitchcock, Hon. Leonard Swett, Hon. C. M. Cady, mayor of the town of Hyde Park, Col. George R. Clark, Mr. Van H. Higgins, C. B. Dupee, and Mr. Rand, of Rand, McNally & Co. SOUTH PARK. South Park is eligibly located at the point where the Grand boulevard crosses the railroad track and joins the upper end of the South Park. It is destined to become a favorite residence section. Already many improvements have been made, and several residences have been erected. WOODLAWN. About half a mile below South Park is located the pretty suburban village christened Woodlawn. The location is excellent, the land lying high, being well timbered, and in the neighborhood of important improvements. The property here has witnessed a rapid rise in values. Messrs. Chace & Abel'l, of this city, purchased a tract of eighty acres at Woodlawn in 1866, at $160 per acre. Lots 200 feet frontage were sold last year at the rate of $7,000 per acre. Acre lots brought from $4,000 to $5,000. At the present time, lots are held at from $20 to $150 per front foot. Judge Erastus Williams has an elegant residence on the corner of Woodlawn avenue and Fiftieth street. Among the principal residents at the suburb of Woodlawn are, Jas. Wadsworth, H. M. Wright, Wm. Fitch, A. Harvey, C. M. Lyngreen, and John Fitch. PARKSIDE. CORNELL. 357 PARKSIDE. This suburb includes a subdivision consisting of twenty acres, lying between Seventieth and Seventy-first streets, and Stony Island boulevard and Madison avenue. In the neighborhood of the depot of the Illinois Central railroad, it is already well settled, with a fair class of residents. Property does not range so high in this suburb as in some of its neighbors, but it is scarcely less available. The place has good school and church facilities. CORNELL. Cornell is located at the crossing of the Michigan Southern & Lake Shore, Michigan Central, Illinois Central, and Pittsburgh & Fort Wayne railroads, and is in the center of the town of Hyde Park. It comprises a subdivision in sections 26 and 35. in town 38, north range 14, east of third principal meridian, and the final plat of the suburb was filed on February 16, 1872. The land, in common with the greater portion of that lying in the town of Hyde Park, is low, but by means of successful drainage, it has been rende red one of the most healthy suburban locations near the city. Its splendid railroad facilities at once marked out Cornell as a splendid manufacturing point, and already the smoke from two or three extensive manufacturing works rises into a cloudless sky. The Crossing is eight and a half miles south of Chicago, and thanks to the extra train service it receives, the resident at this suburb can land in almost any part of the city, by the cars. More than 150 trains, of which 64 are passenger trains, pass through Cornell each day, and all are required by law to stop. The advantages of such excellent train service, both as regards passenger and freight shipments, will be immediately recognized. Of the manufacturing establishments already located at Cornell, two are deserv- ing of special notice. The first is the Cornell Watch Company, whose fine manu- facturing establishment is the nucleus of a settlement already numbering over seventy-five dwellings. The business transacted by this firm is constantly increas- ing, and additional hands are being engaged at all times. Another, and scarcely less important manufacturing enterprise, has also been located in the neighborhood. The Hall Manufacturing Company is an organization, the object of which is to supply artisans' tools to the workmen of the Northwest. This branch of manufac- tures is a very important one, and the Hall Manufacturing Company has a sure field of success before it. There is a good graded school at Cornell, costing $15,000, and church services are held every Sunday. The connection which will shortly be made with the water works system of Hyde Park, will ensure a good supply of lake water constantly. The property is eligibly located for residence purposes. The crossing affords 358 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. such unequaled facilities for trains both to and from the city, that it would be sin- gular if the business man did not recognize the superior advantages thus offered. Among the residents of Cornell are the following gentlemen : Hon. S. G. Calkins, Henry R. Dunn, and Samuel H. Rhodes, whose handsome dwellings are valued at about $5,000 or $6,coo each. Mr. Curtis and Mr. J. S. Scoville own very comfort- able residences. The hotel, which is kept in excellent style, is now under the management of Mr. J. A. French. Among the parties who, recognizing the future sure increase in the value of property located in this suburb, have invested in Cornell lots, may be mentioned Cornell Watch Factory. such shrewd and well-known gentlemen as Paul Cornell, of the Cornell Watch Company, from whom the subdivision takes its name, J. R. Mitt, Capt. W, B. Gray, H. N. Hibbard, Rich & Noble, J. S. Scoville, J. H. Ely, S. S. Calkins, W. R. Cortrell, and others. The streets are all of liberal width. Stony Island boulevard is 200 feet wide ; Cottage Grove and South Chicago boulevards are 100 feet wide, and the other thoroughfares are 66 to 80 feet wide. Real estate values are constantly appreciating. Some of the property was bought for $35 per acre a few years since ; to-day, 25 x 125 feet lots fetch from $300 to $1,000. The demand for Cornell property has been excellent during the present year, and with the constant and certain progress of the suburb, a steady ad- vancement in values may be counted upon, without any doubt whatever. SOUTH SHORE. SOUTH CHICAGO. 359 SOUTH SHORE. Just south of the great South Parks, and extending from them along the lake shore to Clark's Point, over a stretch of one-and-a-half miles lies the South Shore s uhdivision of over 500 acres, which from its beautiful location has been named the Long Brarch of Chicago. The tract, with its wooded knolls and advantageous resi dence sites, is situated on a sufficient elevation to be in full view of the city from Lake Park, and gives one of the best prospects of any locality about the city. The South Park lake shore drive is laid along the margin of the lake through the tract. It is 150 feet wide, macadamized and ornamented, and is to extend from the city to South Chicago harbor. A number of people of means have improved these tracts here with genteel homes, and the subdivision is intended exclusively for this class of settlement. The Goodrich Steamboat Company are about to put in a pier 800 feet long, connecting with ample pleasure grounds and with the South Parks. They will run boats regularly in excursions to this pier. The land over- lies an excellent stone quarry, from the worked portion of which a railroad runs to the South Parks and to Hyde Park village, connecting with trains there. The Chicago & Indiana railway is to run through the place, giving further advantages of transit. The advance of the city toward the south is rapidly enhancing values in this locality. SOUTH CHICAGO. The territory included in the district named above, is a subdivision of about 2,000 acres of land lying at the mouth of, and adjacent to, the Calumet river, twelve miles south by southeast of the city of Chicago. A late writer for one of the leading magazines in an article on Chicago asks, u Why settle such a spot when the same shore presents better sites ? " referring probably to the mouth of the Calumet river as the leading one of the " better sites." This query possesses more than a little significance. A question which thousands have asked after visiting the Calumet is " "Why did the government not choose the larger stream, with its attendant lakes and almost limitless dockage, for its first appropriations, and why was not Chicago started here ?" No plausable reason can be given. The capacity of the Calumet is far superior to what Chicago river in its natural state was. The land is fully as eligible as was Chicago's site. The spot is nearer of access to the railroads leading from the East ; but it is needless to enumerate advantages now. The Chicago creek secured the city and the canal terminus. At the time the two rivers were surveyed for the purpose of locating the Illinois and Michigan Canal, the engineer's report favored an outlet by the Cal- umet ; but engineering did not decide the point. Other interests took it further north in its present course. Now it is proposed to enlarge the ditch into a ship canal to the Mississippi river. If this is done the Calumet presents a few points w < H X. w z (4 w C/3 O O o < o I— I K u O O W > w >♦ w i I h S SOUTH CHICAGO. 361 for consideration. The river is navigable for twelve miles for vessels of fourteen feet draft. A feeder to the canal already runs from Blue Island to the canal at the Desplaines river, and this feeder can be deepened and enlarged at much less expense than the dredging of the whole distance from the Desplaines to Bridge- port. There is sufficient depth of water in the lake in all directions from the mouth of the Calumet to supply a first-class harbor. This was illustrated in the report of the survey, as, also, the enormous capacity of the Calumet river and its lakes for shipping and dockage purposes. In 1869, a recommendation was made by the U. S. Engineer in charge of the harbor, Col. Wheeler, for an appropriation of $300,000 for its improvement and the establishment of proper piers and guards to the entrance. (The improvement was also strongly urged by masters of vessels, underwriters and vessel owners, and by others interested in the commerce of the lakes, on the ground that it would prove a harbor of refuge for vessels driven southeasterly by the dangerous storms of Lake Michigan, and which should be unable to make Chicago harbor. Numerous vessels have been wrecked on^the coast south of the city for want of such a harbor.) Thereupon the Government made the following appropriations: In 1870, $50,000 ; 1871, $50,000 ; 1872, $40,000 ; and in 1873, $40,000 ; making $180,000 thus far provided. The improvement has been under the direction of Brevet. Col. D. C. Houston, of the United States Engineer Corps. In their official reports the U. S. Engineer officers have given their unqualified endorsement to the improvement, and have warmly recommended further appropriations for the purpose of still further extending and perfecting the advantages already secured. The first vessel with a cargo was passed into the river on the first day of April, 1871. During that year there were 400 arrivals and departures. In 1872, the num- ber was about the same. Thus far this year 250 vessels have arrived and departed, which represented 50,000 tons burthen. The harbor is now 300 feet wide and 16 feet deep. The north pier is 2,400 feet, and the south pier 1,200 feet long, and from this it will be seen that facilities are ample in every sense to vessels of every grade. The formation of the lake shore north of the entrance which projects east- wardly at Clark's Point, and the north pier being 1,200 feet longer than the other,. an ample lee is formed by which vessels in every kind of weather can make the har- bor with perfect safety. The river inside of the new entrance has good capacity for lake-going vessels for ten miles from its mouth. Wentworth's light-house, built by Gen. Webster many years ago, and afterwards abandoned, was repurchased in 1872 and, by an appropriation from Congress made for that purpose, the light was established in September, 1873. ^The river, taken with its branches, and the lakes Wolf and Calumet, furnishes $ 1. South Chicago Hotel. 2. Site Sinclair's Woolen Mills, and Kent, Bald- win & Co.'s Machinery Manufactory. 3. Railroad Station Buildings of Pittsburgh & Fort Wayne and Michigan Southern rail- roads. 4. Location of Docks, Rolling Mills, Blast Fur- naces, Elevators, Saw Mills, etc. 5. Location of Ship Yard Dock. 6. Location of Cotton Mills. 7. Location of proposed Ship Canal to Lake Calumet. 8. Casgrain House. 9. Office of Calumet and Chicago Canal and Dock Co. 10. South Chicago Planing Mill and Lumber Yard. 11. Lake Calumet — three miles long, and nav- igable for vessels. 12. Logan Park. 13. United States Government Engineer's Of- fice. 14. United States Lighthouse. 362 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. fully forty miles of water frontage, which can be made available for the uses of the merchant marine as rapidly as required. The perusal of the above facts must have convinced every reader of the won- derful adaptiveness of the banks of the Calumet and its lakes for manufacturing purposes. It is destined to become the central manufacturing mart of the entire west and northwest, and the largest manufacturing town west of the Ohio. When we shall have mentioned below the industries already established in so short a time as four years, that fact alone should seem to cast all doubt aside of the justice of the above rather sweeping claim. But before we proceed to show the other advantages, natural and artificial, which are to make it so, we give the history of the organization which has the whole matter in charge, and state what they have accomplished, pausing only to state first, that the man that has most effectually worked out this mighty problem, who was the head and front of the initiatory and subsequent movements, and who has lived to see his prophesies, by many at first considered chimerical, fulfilled, is Col. James H. Bowen. Foreseeing with his remarkable business acumen, the numerous industries which have, and are to cluster at this point, he set himself at work to develop a plan which should prove successful in bringing all these advan- tages into practical working. Others saw the thing in the same light, and in 1868 a concerted action was commenced by the purchase of large tracts of land adjacent to the harbor by Col. Bowen, O. S. Hough, Elliott Anthony, Chas. A. Gregory, Sheridan Waite, A. C. Babcock, E. G. Clark, Chauncey T. Bowen, Thos. S. Dob- bins, George S. Bowen, J. C. Dore, George Schneider, Leverett B. Sidway, John C. Haines, Wm. P. Allen, George W. Stanford, Geo. M. Pullman, John V. LeMoyne, James H. Rees and othei-s. A charter was obtained from the Legislature, and an organization effected under the the name of the Calumet and Chicago Canal and Dock Co. The charter bears date March 10, 1869. On the first day of April fol- lowing, the Company elected the following gentlemen as officers : President, James H. Bowen ; Vice President, Elliott Anthony; Treasurer, O. S. Hough ; Secretary, Chas. A. Gregory. The charter provided for the construction of a canal from the South Branch of the Chicago river, or the Illinois and Michigan Canal, to the Calu- met river, at South* Chicago, with authority to locate and condemn lands, and operate the said canal, construct docks, dry-docks, ship-yards, warehouses and piers. They proceeded to purchase lands adjacent to the mouth of the Calumet, and, during the years '69, '70 and '71, consolidated about 6,000 acres, extending four miles west of the lake, and in other favorable localities. They have invested in their purchases and improvements made since the organization, the enormous sum of $2,500,000. The lands of the Company comprise a large amount of dock frontage, property admirably adapted to manufacturing sites and commercial operations, a large tract of limestone lands, and many elevated residence sites, as well as a large amount of country adapted to agriculture and gardening. They have expended, in grading, draining and opening streets, including a ma- cadamized road, which extends from the city to the Calumet river, about $300,000. A^large amount of dockage has been constructed, the river lines straightened by dredging, a $30,000 hotel erected, a number of other buildings put up, and a quantity of general improvements consummated with the above sum. The railway facilities are most complete and excellent. The Michigan Southern ; Pittsburg, SOUTH CHICAGO. $6$ Ft. Wayne & Chicago ; Michigan Central ; Illinois Central ; and the Rock Island Branch — as the southern connection of the Chicago Belt railroad — are all made available. The Baltimore & Ohio will extend its line east of the Michigan South- ern, and have in negotiation the location of their requisite car shops, roundhouses, machine shops, etc, for the accommodation of their western terminus, on the lands of the Company. The Canada Southern, the New York and Erie extension, and the Continental railways ; all these, besides the Danville & Vincennes railway, must pass through the lands of the Company. Contracts are closed for the comple- tion of the last named road from Dalton to South Chicago, in the spring. At the opening ceremonies, on the 7th of June, there were present — in addi- tion to a large concourse of people — Gov. Beveridge, Senators Logan and Oglesby, and the Governors of several of the northwestern states, all of whom in their elo- quent speeches claimed for South Chicago more than has been asserted in this article. The distance between the mouths of the Chicago and Calumet rivers is eleven miles. The natural growth of the city will soon reach the confines of the Company's property. It is evident to all who see the improvements consummated and in pro- gress, and the almost unlimited area thoroughly drained and made available, that there is an unrestricted opportunity for manufacturing, commercial and marine busi- ness to be established and flourish, in the fullest sense equal to the demands of commerce and trade upon this central point of distribution. The Chicago, Danville & Vincennes road connects direct with the block-coal fields of Indiana, and that Company will locate docks for the sale of this coal, which can be laid down there and sold at less expense than in the city, and at rates most favorable to manufac- turing interests. The iron ore of Michigan and Wisconsin can be unloaded at this place at most favorable rates. Plenty of lime, stone, brick-clay, and other building materials, can be had at the very doors of the buildings. It has been demonstrated by actual experiment that timber logs can be safely towed across the lake, and made into lumber, and sold at as low a price as they can be sold at the yards of the Michigan mills. Messrs. Pardee, Blanchard & Co. have established lumber manufacturing on a large scale ; others will follow. The available boomage ground in the harbor gives capacity for from 500,000,000 to 1,000,000,000 feet of logs without impeding navigation. Since the experiment of towing rafts across the lake has proved to be entirely practicable, and the above result is shown regarding the price at which lumber can be sold upon the market, a number of others have made propositions looking to the erection of mills, and the natural inference in the light of the facts seems to be that Chicago's head-quarters for obtaining lumber is about to be changed, and the whole lumber interest revolu- tionized. The navigability of the river and lakes, the vast dockage territory, etc., will enable manufacturers to ship lumber to the Chicago yards on terms at least as advantageous as Michigan can do it, and, for the eastern and western trade in that commodity, certainly South Chicago has a fair chance to successfully compete with the city market. The importance of the great advantages afforded for making lumber at South Chicago cannot be over-estimated, and some anxiety has reasona- bly arisen at those points which have hitherto been the reservoirs from which Chi- cago and the west have drawn their supply. The capacity of the above mill is 20,000,000 feet of manufactured lumber per 364 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. year. The parties interested have 300,000,000 feet of pine standing on their lands at the Au Sable river in Michigan. The cuttings from the logs, consigned to flames and dock building in Michigan, are all made available here, and sell at good prices, for fuel, more than paying the freight and towage across the lake. The effect of this will be most sensibly felt in long timber. Among other improvements worthy of especial note, and of a more extended description than we can give them, are the following, already completed : The fine hotel erected by the company a short distance east of the neat depot of the Pitts- burg, Ft. Wayne and Chicago, & the Michigan Southern railroads ; the woolen mill erected by L. W. Sinclair, which is a four-story brick building, containing 130 looms, 7 carding machines and jennies, having a capacity of 2,500 yards per day. The Illinois Steam Forge Works, a building 60 x 129 feet, and containing three ponderous mauls at work, employing fifty men. This company will also manufac- ture iron ore into a merchantable form, by a process which will very much cheapen the cost of this production. The Chicago Iron and Steel Works, having a capacity of four tons per day of tool and merchant steel, and furnishing work for a large number of men. The establishment of Redfield, Sargent & Co., manufacturing grist-mill machinery and smut machines, in a building 32x100 feet in dimensions, making first-class work ; and the policy of locating manufactories in the suburbs for cheapness of fabrication, has been pursued here as in other cities, owing to their exemption from municipal taxation, smaller cost of ground, cheapness of living, room for ample and unobstructed facilities. This location presents all of these economical advantages in a marked degree. The match factory of A. J. Griggs & Co., recently removed from Pittsburgh. The operating force employed by the mills is fully 800 men, including those em- ployed on government works. By next summer, when all the manufacturing inter- ests of the place are at work, there should be at least 2,250 men at work, repre- senting a population of 10,000, exclusive of those who settle there for other reasons. The Silicon Steel Works, now building, are mentioned in detail below. There are a number of projects under consideration for building grist-mills, elevators and other manufactures, with a reasonable prospect of fulfillment. What has accomplished all this in the space of five years ? The indomitable courage and energy of a few capitalists, who, probably, as faithfully as any like number of men, represent the distinctive characteristics of Chicago business men. No where in the world is so much ventured and so much fulfilled as here. Men go upon tracts which, to unthinking minds, appear to offer few inducements for investments, and carefully study out their plan, then bring their money and their arguments to bear, expend hundreds of thousands with little immediate return, and await results. These re- sults follow as certainly as a mathematical conclusion, and the sequel is in propor- tion to the ventures made. In this perhaps lies the solution of the problem of Chicago's remarkable rise and resurrection, which astonishes our neighbors in the east and excites the wonder and envy of capital the world over. Large areas in out-lying tracts in Indiana and south from South Chicago have been purchased since these industries have gained a footing here, and it is stated by the purchasers that their operations are based on assured enterprises of greater mag- nitude than any yet attempted. SOUTH CHICAGO. 365 To accommodate the growing commerce and use of the river, the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago, and the Michigan Southern railways, have each submitted plans to Col. Houston, which he has approved, for the construction of drawbridges of iron across the Calumet river this winter, between which there will be a passage way of seventy feet for vessels. The Michigan Central road have completed a first- UUWUUUUUL □DSDDDDDD juy©ju JCpyQQ mm mum used LidLt ; B0IMMJ logpl 1 ST' I Jgj class bridge of the same character at their crossing. The town of Hyde Park has also made contracts for building a draw-bridge on Ninety-fifth street, at Chitten- don's, and at Dalton — twenty miles south — where anew subdivision called River- dale has been erected. At this point, now that the river is navigable to that point, Messrs. Martin Bros, have located a lumber-yard and purchased large grounds near the bridge, and have within the few weeks of its existence commenced an active trade. They have direct connections with the Danville & Vincennes, Great East- 366 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. em and Illinois Central roads. Their tract is known as the Riverdale lumber yards. Col. Bowen's house, at Wildwood, is near this tract. Among other improvements for which provision is made by the Dock Company is a lake shore drive extended from South Chicago to Hyde Park. The initial cause for all the extended improvements embraced in the above detail, was the imperative necessity for a point, to be located near the city, from which Chicago could draw supplies of manufactured material. Until 1869, Chicago had never been known as a manufacturing city. She was at that time sending to other points for vast invoices of iron, machinery of every description, lumber, coal, etc., etc. At South Chicago, the Calumet with its lakes, with its immense natural advantages for commerce, a net work of railroads, a wealth of lime, clay and other materials lay useless in silent protest at our very doors. The demands of the city for articles and materials on which heavy freight tariffs rested increased every hour. The iron-horse could not bring them in fast enough even at the heavy prices. Some- thing was necessary to be done, and the gentlemen above named solved the diffi- culty in the manner above stated. The results of their enterprise has, in magnitude, far exceeded their expecta- tions. The city is most signally benefited by the industries at work now at that point, and she will be benefited in the same ratio as South Chicago's manufacto- ries increase. The facts are before the reader, and are too plain to need extended comment. It need only be added in conclusion that the Calumet and Chicago Canal and Dock Co. are extending every favor and every aid possible to manufac- turers settled upon their lands, and offer the most favorable inducements to others to swell their number by gathering in their capital at this focal point of industry. The company will place in market a considerable quantity of the most desirably located lands, in the early spring, to meet the demand so rapidly increasing. Taylor s Additions. — During the two years last past, Mr. D. S. Taylor has pur- chased two hundred and ninety-seven acres, lying sou th of and near the South Chi- cago harbor, and east of the Calumet river, paying all the way from $200 per acre to $1,200 per acre for it. The frontage on Douglas Slip, seen in the map, is 2,500 feet, and the tract borders on the four slips to be cut from the Calumet river, thus giving dockage enough for a large place. The dockage on Douglas Slip is already provided, and has direct access from the harbor, sans bridges or other obstructions. The natural attractions of the lake shore for excellen t residence sites will be seen at once. The Michigan Southern and the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago railroads traverse the tract in an oblique direction towards the southeast, and the Baltimore & Ohio, one of the staunchest and best constructed roads in the country will be completed through, in a similar course, by next spring. By that time, also, all trains on the three roads will stop at the stations, as they do now on the west side of the river. One half a mile of side track is constructed from the Pittsburgh road to the location of the Silicon Steel Rolling Mills located in the southwest corner of the tract. This company has purchased twenty-six acres from Mr. Taylor and twenty- six acres from the Colehour interest, adjoining on the south, and leased from the South Chicago Canal and Dock Company twenty-six acres more. On this tract they are erecting a splendid Silicon steel rolling mill, which will have a capacity of 100 tons of finished rails per day. The Silicon Steel Company of New York are sole SOUTH CHICAGO. 367 proprietors of this enterprise, and also of extensive and successful rolling mills at Sandusky, Ohio, and Rome, New York. They own also the Silicon Steel Ore Mine at York, Pennsylvania. Their large experience enabled them to foresee the sure future of what will prove, in time, to be the most important manufacturing point west of the Atlantic Ocean, and hence they are expending the sum of from $250,000 to $300,000 on buildings and machinery, and when the works are com- pleted they will need the constant services of 300 workmen. Besides the rail mill, extensive furnaces, machine shops, etc., will be built, making the whole investment, at least, $500,000, and furnishing employment to 800 men. Taylor's addition was subdivided last July, and the sale of lots began immedi- ately. Since then a number of good improvements have been provided in building, fencing, grading, laying sidewalks, etc, Mr. Taylor has just completed and rented a large brick hotel costing $10,000. It is now nearly filled with men working on the rolling mills. Several manufac- turers are holding the locality under advisement, and doubtless a number of new enterprises will be inaugurated ere long. Iron-workers Addition to South Chicago. — This subdivision was made in the south half of section 8, 38, 15, and is laid out on a carefully considered and generous plan, adapted to meet the demands which its commanding situation will require it to fill. Twelve blocks in the vicinity of the Rolling Mills and docks are laid out with streets 66 feet wide, lots about 125 feet deep and alleys 14 feet wide. All other streets, except Indiana boulevard, are 80 feet in width, the lots 170 feet deep and alleys 20 feet wide. The Indiana boulevard, originated in this subdivision, and laid out 100 feet in width, has already been extended both ways over adjoining lands, and will be continued further. This addition contains a triangular tract in the southeast corner of the north half as well as all the south half of the section ; thus securing nearly half a mile of front at the extreme southwestern corner of Lake Michigan. The course of the shore is here south-southeast, while a mile east, at Sheffield Harbor (Wolf Lake), it is due east. The addition is bounded on the west by thewharfing lots on the Calu- met river, and on the east by Lake Michigan and the prospective manufacturing city of Sheffield. The west half is a high gravel ridge covered with a dense growth of forest trees. This is divided from a second timbered belt by a narrow prairie. East of this belt, a second prairie extends more than a mile to the south, from which, by a barely perceptible ascent, we reach the timbered table lands along its line. The history of this addition is brief. Until late in the summer of 1873 its sur- face was in a state of nature, broken only by a single wagon road and the rich farm upon the southeastern portion. After the Silicon Steel Company had purchased 26 acres in the northwest corner for their rolling mills, the plat was carefully surveyed. In September it became evident that to accommodate the workmen in the great factories in progress in the vicinity, nearly a thousand homes must be provided by early spring, and work of opening the streets began in earnest. In the midst of this the financial crisis came, but the work was not abated. The demands upon the Steel Company required that their rolling mills should be in operation by spring, and habitations for the men must be prepared. As soon as the ground was sufficiently prepared to be exhibited, in the midst of the financial pressure, an auction 368 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. sale was held on Monday, October 27th. The temerity which would risk a sale at such a time evinced great confidence in the property ; but the sale was a decided success. Over a hundred lots were sold at prices averaging $7 per foot, when the bidders were actually driven from the field by the cold and the heavy snow storm, through which the trains returned. Since the auction, 225 lots have been sold at prices averaging $8 per front foot, about one half of which has been paid in cash. The owners, finding that the purchasers intend immediate improvement, propose to continue sales at these low rates until one hundred acres shall have been sold to those who will erect buildings upon their lots. The railway facilities are good. Already fourteen trains each way connect Chi- cago with South Chicago, running upon the Michigan Southern and the Pittsburgh, Ft. Wayne & Chicago railroads, both of which cross this addition, and will estab- lish depots upon it. All other eastern roads that do not make a long detour must cross it. The Canada Southern and the Baltimore & Ohio are already located. The officers of the latter give assurances that it will be completed in the spring. With these three roads the passage will be made in about forty-five minutes from any part of Chicago, by the Ft. Wayne from the West Side, by the Michigan Southern from the vicinity of Clark street, and by the Baltimore & Ohio from Lake street and the avenues. Crossing these roads from north to south near the eastern line of the subdivision, the South Chicago & Southern railway is planned, to run from the mouth of the harbor south along the shore of Lake Michigan, thence crossing the railroads at right angles, and due south to the coal fields. The Calumet River & Dalton railroad (partly constructed), will follow the line of the river, connecting with the east and west roads at the points of intersec- tion, crossing the west end of the Iron-worker's addition, and forming a junction either with the Illinois Central or the Chicago, Danville & Vincennes, as shall be most advantageous. The Chicago Belt railroad, to be built across the Calumet river, along the south line of section 8, passing along the south line of this addition, forming a junction with the last named road at the crossing, and connecting with all the eastern roads at the crossing of the South Chicago & Southern. At this point a large portion of the grain transfers will undoubtedly be made. The proprietors of the Safety patent transfer cars, having procured ample grounds for that purpose, intend to demonstrate that cars can be taken from any western road, discharged into the east- ern cars, and returned to the proper road on the same day, at a cost of one dollar per car. The leading western roads are understood to have made arrangements with the patentees for that purpose. Thus the Iron-workers' addition will be imme- diately connected with every railroad entering Chicago. Indiana boulevard is a diagonal street running from State* street southeast, crossing every east and west street from Sixty-third, to One-hundred-and-sixth, and all the south avenues. Much of it is already finished into one of the most perfect drives in the country. Beyond the Iron-workers' addition it has this summer been constructed to Wolf river, in Indiana, where a swing bridge is contemplated, to be built early next spring, and the road continued for many miles into the country. Lake county is fully alive to its importance, and already plans for splendid graveled roads running into it from every part of the county are well advanced. SOUTH LAWN. OAKWOOD. 369 SOUTH LAWN. This is one of the youngest of our suburbs, having been first subdivided and named this present year, by Messrs. Young and Rowley, who own a controlling in- terest in the plat. It embraces 960 acres, lying in sections 22 and 27, town 36, range 14, and the firm, above named own 440 acres adjoining, making the whole area 1,400 acres. It is situated on the south bank of the Calumet, seventeen miles from the Cook county Court-house and thirteen miles from the city's southern limits. The Company interested commenced (buying up the tract in 1870 and completed their purchases last summer, paying an average price of $ioo per acre. The lands for- merly belonged to non-residents, and to the Illinois Central railroad company, who secured their lands direct from the State. The present average value of the property is $300 per acre, making the whole interest worth about half a million dollars. The Illinois Central and the Chicago, Danville & Vincennes railroads traverse the tract in diagonal directions from the northwest and northeast corners, making a junction on the property, at which a neat depot is erected and near which side- tracks and transfer freight houses will be made necessary. All trains are compelled to stop at this depot. An arrangement is closed with the Illinois Central road to run two Hyde Park trains each day from that place through South Lawn to Home- wood, three and a half miles below, where the turn-table is located. Over the Dan- ville & Vincennes road, free passes to and from South Lawn for three years have been arranged for, to all persons making actual settlement. Coal from the Indiana fields over the Danville route, and lumber by the Calumet river — navigable to this place — can be obtained at a cheaper rate than from the city. These are important advantages in connection with the settlement of the place, which, from the facts above given, will assuredly be as rapid as at almost any other point. Messrs. Young and Rowley have expended over $15,000 in grading, tree planting, etc., and a still greater sum will be devoted to farther improvements to be made without delay. Over ten miles of streets have been graded and bordered on each side with trees, placed at short and regular distances apart. The grading has established a complete drainage throughout the entire subdivision, and made every foot of land within its area desirable for occupancy. The depot is a neat structure, with two rooms, and cost $1,000. The shores of the Calumet are at this point skirted by a grove of large, handsome trees, and the place is a popular resort for hunting and fishing parties. OAKWOOD Is a cemetery station, and shows but little improvement in the way of affording homes for the living. It is prettily located, and will probably come into the mar- ket for residence property within a short time. 24 370 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. RAVENSWOOD. Ravenswood, located on the line of the Milwaukee Division of the Northwestern railroad, has a history. Checkered fortunes have given the place an adventitious interest. The same means by which several of the suburbs of Chicago have been originally handled — by means of a land improvement company — first placed Ravenswood upon the market. The success of the effoils of the managers of the Company was so unforeseen, that long before it was anticipated, the greater number of lots in the place had passed out of the hands of the Company, and the suburb, deprived of the assistance in development which comes from organized effort, suffered a relapse, the evil results of which were yet still further increased by the oc- currence of the great Chicago fire. But the natural advantages offered by the suburb, its excellent location, its railroad facilities, and its unexceptionable natural means for complete drainage, etc., were sufficient to float it on the market without even the extra aid referred to. To-day, it is one of our most prosperous suburbs. The village was laid out in 1869. The plat consisted of 360 acres of land, sub- divided into lots 50 by 165 feet. The Ravenswood Land Company owned 200 acres of this. The first lot sold by the Company was on the 16th of June, 1869, for $400 ; and the last in October, the same year, for $2,500. In 1869, there was but one passenger who traversed the road to Chicago, regularly ; now it has reached the respectable figure of seventy-five. There are fourteen daily trains, the distance being traversed in twenty minutes. The fare is $7.20 per hundred rides. But apart from the railroad, the drive to the suburb thr®ugh Lincoln Park, and along the Lake Shore drive to Green Bay road, is very pleasant. Among the leading residents of Ravenswood are the following : Mr. Van Allen ? dealer in real estate, owns a handsome house and 900 feet of nicely laid out grounds, considered worth $26,000. The ornamentation of Mr. Van Allen's grounds is very artistic and effective. Captain John N. Hills, Justice of the Peace and dealer in real estate, has recently completed a very handsome residence worth from $12,000 to $15,000, in a beautiful grove at the corner of Leland avenue and Green Bay road. Mr. W. P. Jones, real estate dealer, has a fine house and handsomely improved grounds near the corner of Sunnyside and Commercial streets, considered worth about $20,000. T. Barrows & Son, of the Victor Sewing Machine Company, have each of them fine residences. Louis Semper, A. A. Clark, B, Sherman, R. M. Lee, C. W. Clarke, W. H. Bryant, John Fishleigh, Mrs. Howard, Rev. W. A. Lloyd, C. M. Bowen, W. H. Carpenter, all have excellent houses, and enjoy suburban life in admirable style. Many of these residences are provided with patent gas works, and the owners manufacture their own illuminating medium. The public improvements keep pace with the demands of the residents of the place. A substantial school house has recently been erected at a cost of $15,000; and the high school for the township of Lake View has recently been located at Ravenswood, the building of which will cost $20,000. It is to be completed for occupancy this winter. A handsome church has been built this year at the comer R0SEH1LL CEMETERY. 37 I of Commercial street and Jefferson road, in which non-sectarian services are held regularly every Sabbath. The public improvements which have been carried through, include the planting of a large number of shade trees, graveling streets, laying sewerage, and boring artesian wells. The village is under the local government of the Board oi Trustees of Lake View township, and is well represented. The sale of lots up to date show that rates from $20 to $30 per foot are obtain- able. These figures are under the true value of the property ; and the steady rise which is noted in all suburban values is sure to send the figures on Ravenswood property considerably above the rates now quoted. c ROSEHILL CEMETERY. This lonely spot, long dedicated to the dead, is located seven miles from the Court-house in the township of Lake View, and adjacent to the Milwaukee Division of the Northwestern Railroad (west of the track). The Company, who initiated measures and purchased the ground, was incorporated in February, 1859, with Dr. J. V. Z. Blaney as President. The first interment took place in July, 1859, since which time 7,700 have been buried within the gates of the cemetery. Four hun- dred of these were deceased soldiers ; and there have been 500 removals. About 60 acres were included within the original plat, and 166 acres have since been added, the last purchase of 80 acres having been consummated November nth, 1873. The Company paid for this $1,000 per acre. The average price paid for the lands previously secured is $250 per acre. The average would have been less but that some of the tracts had been sold in lots, and a margin on first figureshad to be given. The grounds were originally located by a committee appointed by the Common Council of Chicago, of which Gov. Bross was ch airman, and the selection was made only after a thorough examination of all other localities about the city. At the time, it was considered by many too far from the city, but the great advances made since, have proved the wisdom of the choice, which was made on the following considera- tions: First, because the tract is higher by several feet than any other locality exam- ined ; second, because the facilities of access were better ; and, third, because the committee deemed it to be nearest the proper distance from the city. Rosehill is the largest cemetery about Chicago. The Company have, up to this date, expended fully $250,000 in lands and improvements. The beautiful entrance, shown in our illustration, cost, with the vault, $20,000. The walks are laid out most tastefully with beds of gravel on hard clay. As the lots vary in size from 8 x 10 to 200 feet square, it is of course impossible to give the exact capacity of the cemetery, but fully 25,000 average-sized lots are embraced within its area. Among the societies and organizations that have secured exclusive territory are the Masonic, Odd Fellows, Good Templars, Fireman's Benevolent Association, Chicago Typographical Union, the St. Andrew's and St. George's Societies, the 372 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Chicago Board of Trade, and Batteries A and B, and Bridge's Battery of the Chicago- Light Artillery. All these lots are very handsomely improved. The Fireman's Benevolent Asso- ciation have erected, under contract made at low rates before the war, at a cost of $15,000, a beautiful monument, surmounted by the statue of a fireman in uniform. The pedestal is appropriately inscribed. The military monument, built at the joint expense of the county and the Board Entrance to Rosehill Cemetery. of Trade, is an elegant shaft, surmounted by the figure of a soldier in uniform, and ornamented with bas-reliefs representing diffei - ent arms of the service. This cost $11,000. The monuments erected by Batteries A and B, and by the Odd Fellows, are scarcely less worthy of special notice. H. O. Stone, Esq., has erected here the finest monument west of New York city. It is a design of a mother and child in a reclining position, executed in the finest material, by one of the Italian masters in Rome. We have not space for a detailed description. On the left of the entrance and near to the gate is the very handsome white marble shaft erected to the memory of Major General T. E. G. Ransom, by his friends, at a cost of $3,200. In its very simplicity lies its symmetry and beauty, and ROSEHILL CEMETERY. 373 its design is indicative of the solid sterling qualities void of ostentation which char- acterized this patriot and hero in whose honor it was erected. Among the most beautiful of the private monuments is that erected to the late P. F. W. Peck, at a cost of $15,000, and some very fine ones are to be noted, erected by H. M. Thompson, D. R. Holt, Hon. C. B. Fanvell, Hon. J. B. Rice, Gov. Bross. 412 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. lives at Mount Forest, in a residence romantically situated on a terraced hill ; and Messrs. Fowler, Atkins, Munson and a number of others will build in the spring, gothic houses at values ranging from $4,500 to $5,000. For the finest and deepest lots now for sale, $10 per foot is asked, while others can be bought at from $3 to $7 per foot. CLYDE. Clyde stands eight miles from the Court-house and two miles west of the city limits. Its present plat includes one hundred and sixty acres in sections 29 and 17, in township 39, range 13 east. It was purchased in September, 1866, by W. H. Clarke, of New York City, Clyde Depot. from the Canal Trustees, with deed to his heirs, for a total consideration of $1,800. One year ago last August, forty acres of the tract, being in the east one-half of the northwest quarter of section 17, was sold to Mr. Waterman, of Sheldon & Water- man, at $750 per acre. The subdivision now called Clyde was of the eighty acres CLYDE. 413 lying in section 29, and was made by W. H. Clarke, Jr., D. Goodwin and Mrs. H. G. Catlin, in March, 1872. Mr. Goodwin had purchased from the Clarke heirs, an interest in this 80 acres. In May following, W. H. Clarke, Jr., sold at auction thirty- one lots, at prices ranging from $440 to $575 each. Before this sale a number ot Clyde Church. improvements had been made, including the depot illustrated in this article, and the usual street work. Not reckoning the cost of the depot, these improvements have already cost $17,000. The neat little church, above illustrated, is not yet entirely finished. It is 56x32 feet, of Swiss gothic style with open timber roof, finished to ridge pole, and with dormers at the sides. The auditorium is 31x36 feet, with chancel beyond. The church is situated on the lot south of and adjoining Mr. James McKenney's home, which forms another illustration. 414 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The residence of Mr. McKenney is at present the handsomest building in the place. Mr. McKenney is the pioneer settler of Clyde, having hauled his first lum- ber over one year ago. He built the depot then, and, securing lots on easy terms, began to build and sell homes. He has built several cheap houses, and a store building near the depot worth $4,000. He is also building three houses, one to cost $5,000, two stories and a half high, of modern style throughout, with fourteen rooms and attic above. Residence of Mr. James McKenney. The depot was erected at a cost of $5,000. It is gothic, two full stories, with three rooms below and dwelling rooms above. Near the depot, on a triangular lot bounded by the railway track and Thirty-first street, will be laid out a handsome little park with trees and winding walks. The township of Cicero is expected to build near the depot, next spring, a two- story school-house, to cost $5,500. The lot will be one acre in area, and is being handsomely laid out for the purpose with gravel walks, grass plats, shrubbery, etc. North of the depot, Mr. Race, D. Goodwin and Mr. Hutchinson, have handsome houses worth from $3,800 to $5,000 each, with lots. The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railway runs through Clyde, and fourteen trains each day stop for passengers, giving ample facilities for travel to citizens. The Chicago & Great Western railway is projected, to be extended to Riverside, passing through Clyde. HAWTHORNE. RIVERSIDE. 415 HAWTHORNE. Hawthorne is one of the suburbs of the future. It is located on the line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, about six miles from the depot, or one mile from the city limits. The subdivision includes a tract of 240 acres, divided into thirty- six blocks, with twelve lots in each. The lots are 100x183 feet in size, and the streets are from 80 feet to 150 feet in width. The principal thoroughfares are Ogden, Hawthorne, and Hymen avenues. All the streets in the suburb are graded, the culverts built, and seven trees planted in front of each lot. RIVERSIDE. No suburb of Chicago possesses greater interest, whether from a historical point of view or from its picturesque surroundings, than the suburb known of late years as Riverside. It is unfortunately the fact that much of the attention of the public which has been directed to it is owing to the continued litigation in which the Im- provement Company, having charge of the fortunes of the place, have since the fire been involved. But apart from this, Riverside is worthy of some note. Some five or six years ago, the suburb had no existence on the charts of Cook county. The late city treasurer, Mr. David A. Gage, Ovvned a beautiful farm, lying on the banks of the Desplaines river, well wooded, with many charming points of scenery, and only some four miles from the city limits. Had this city been any other than Chicago, Mr. Gage might to-day be owning his pleasant retreat. But the eye of the far-seeing speculator alighted upon the spot, and the inevitable Company having been organized, the car of progress was speedily set in motion. The locality, in its natural condition, was beautiful ; and the opportunity presented for the artist to elaborate upon, and improve the work of nature, was unquestionable. The Company had wealthy and responsible men upon its directorate, whose spirits were speedily aglow with the vision of the bright things before them if they could ever realize their dream of planting on the banks of the Desplaines the model suburb of America. Eastern architects came and surveyed the ground, and shortly after- wards presented a report to the Executive Board of the Association. Their plan was found to be exhaustive and expensive ; it brought out with success the leading idea desired, of so laying out the suburb that it should practically be a public park for the benefit of private residents ; and, after much debate, it was adopted. The Company at once raised the funds necessary to proceed with the work. An army of workmen was engaged, and a considerable progress was soon perceptible, in the heavy task before them. The tract of land owned by the Company com- prised about 1,600 acres, and of these it was proposed to devote 700 acres for roads, borders, walks, recreative grounds, and parks. The New York landscape artists (Messrs. Olmsted & Vaux) pressed very urgently the necessity of the construction of a carriage road or driveway from the city to the suburb ; and, meeting assistance 416 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. from the town of Cicero and the city of 'Chicago, the road running from Twelfth street directly to Riverside, 150 feet wide, was constructed. Among the other im- provements suggested, and carried into effect, was a complete system of sewerage, the supply of water and gas, the adoption of the curved line for streets, and the planting of innumerable trees. Riverside, before it passed into the hands of the Company, possessed many beautiful groves of trees — elm, maple, and oak ; but it was left for the standing wooded land to be utilized to its utmost extent by the skill of the artist. Everything likely to give the place the appearance of a resident park was done. Nor were opportunities offered by the curving course of the Des- plaines river neglected. At one place, the river encircles a strip of land, of the shape of a peninsula, and of about one and a quarter square miles in extent, which, together with a neighboring island, has been improved so as to form public parks, access being had to one of them by means of rustic bridges. Among the gentlemen who erected residences in Riverside were Messrs. Emery E. Childs, President of the Company ; W. T. Allen, L. Y. Schemerhorn, H. C. Ford, John C. Dore, Rev. J. H. Trowbridge, George M. Kimbark, L. W. Murray, Watts De Gollyer, W. W. Chandler, George Chambers, E. F. Nexson, John C. Cochrane, Charles Coryell, Dr. J. H. Hollister, W. H. Wigley, Carol Gaytes, Charles Gladding, W. L. B. Jenney, Watson Hinckley, M. E. Seelye, D. F. Chase, John A. Rice, P. Sherman, George Gilbert, and other well known Chicagoans. Among the other enterprises undertaken and carried to a successful conclusion by the Company, was the erection of a grand hotel. Pleasantly situated, with ex- cellent accommodation, containing a large number of rooms, and all the conveniences of a city establishment, it is a very agreeable place for summer resort. Connected with it is a refectory and billiard pavilion, and an octagon music pagoda. The size of the hotel will be seen from these figures : The length is 260 feet ; width, 124 feet ; the verandahs are 1,042 feet long, and from 15 to 20 feet wide ; and the balconies to the third story are 368 feet in length. During the last two years the suburb has made little progress. Litigation, finan- cial embarrassments, and the reports widely circulated, and having some foundation in fact, of the unhealthy character of the location, have continued to retard its growth. The prospects of the place are better than they formerly were, and the persons having charge of Riverside are energetic and persevering, and, their present difficulties removed, will doubtless succeed in restoring the suburb to a more favor- able position in public confidence. There is no doubt that both the Desplaines and Fox rivers, lying to the west of Chicago and affording great numbers of very beauti- ful sites, will soon be bordered with handsome improvements, and be relieved, sooner or later, of the incubus that now rests upon them, viz., a reputation for ague. The most obvious mode of remedying the summer defluxion of these streams is by dredg- ing the channels and docking the shores, when flat, with the product of this opera- tion ; also turning into the stream the currents of numerous artesian wells along their banks. We look to see the Desplaines, within fifteen years, an exceptionally choice residence district. LA GRANGE. 417 LA GRANGE. This subdivision, formerly called Kensington Heights, is located on the line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, about twelve miles from the Court-house and one and a half miles west of Riverside. It contains about 600 acres, lying in section 4, town of Lyons. The property was subdivided and placed upon the mar- ket in 1871, and although for a time the proprietor, Mr. F. D. Cossett, exerted but little effort to sell, yet a sufficient number of purchases for actual settlement were made to form quite a village. L In the spring of 1873, improvements began in earnest. The natural advantages of the suburb are of no mean order. The surface is high and rolling and affords admirable views in every direction. Pure well water is reached at from 15 to 20 feet, and nearly in the center of the town is an everflowing spring, of excel- lent quality. An inexhaustible limestone-quarry is situated near the place, and is being extensively worked. The streets have been opened and graded to an extent of six miles. One thousand shade trees of various kinds have bave been out about the lots and streets, besides a large number of fine fruit trees planted by Mr. Cossett. About forty houses are built, ranging in value from $2,000 to $8,000. Excavations are being made for several other handsome houses. A school-house is being constructed to cost at least $10,000. It is to be a basement and three stories high ; the first two floors will be dedicated to the different grades of the school, and the upper one, which is 17 feet to the ceiling, will be used as an assembly room. A handsome church, worth $15,000, will be immediately constructed. Two large brick store buildings have been recently erected and occupied with stocks of general merchandise. Something entirely novel in the way of enterprise is being carried out by the proprietors. They are constructing a series of miniature lakes on the slope, two of which will be devoted especially to fish culture. These are to be located on the summit of one of the ridges. They are to be oval in form and connected by a narrow stream of water. The third lake is situated just under the hill and near the railway track. This will be elliptic in shape and one of the most attractive features of the place. A wide drive will encircle it, which will be studded with fine large trees grass plats, etc. Boat and bath-houses will be erected upon its borders. A stone ice-house is to be provided near the track and convenient for shipping. The bathing house will be of stone, and will contain several rooms to which water will be con- veyed from the upper lakes, which receive their supply from the spring and artesian well. The lower lake will be one half of a mile long, and will afford ample room for boating. The large number of streets graveled from the beds in the vicinity, bordered by three rows of thrifty trees on each side, interspersed with handsome evergreens and liberally furnished with sidewalks, present an attractive feature. When all the improvements mentioned are complete, La Grange will have many sterling attractions for the settler, which will make it in the near future one of the most important and prosperous suburbs in Cook county. Messrs. Cossett & Lay and D. B. Lyman, of the firm of Lyman & Jackson, are 27 . 418 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. sole proprietors of all the lands of the tract, excepting that part which they have sold to settlers. The expense of annual tickets to the city by railwayis $67, and the facilities of transit^are ample. HINSDALE. The village of Hinsdale was originally laid out in 1866. In the year 1869 quite a number of houses were built and occupied, and appearances warranted the pre- sumption that there would be a popular place there some day. The village is situated on the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, ten miles from the city limits and sixteen miles from the Court-house. The situation of the place is handsome and attractive, being elevated prairie-land with alternate hills and groves ; some of the hills rising as high as seventy-five feet above Lake Michigan. The first operations in building began in 1868. In that year Mr. Wm. Robbins built a large stone school-house ; a store, and a post-office was established, and a Congregational church was organized by Rev. J. E. Roy. During the next year building commenced in earnest ; people arrived ; increased railroad facilities were added, and a small hotel, and another store and meat market were built. Enter- prising men could afford to accept deeds of well-located acres for $200 to $300 and live there. A property owner stated that he was offered $400 at this time for a half-acre lot, which was considered the best business corner in town. Many offers succeeded the first, the price always increasing. The next year, Mr. O. J. Stough built and furnished, on the north side of the town, a handsome little church at a cost of $4,500, and frill maintains it free to all. Rev. Dr. W. S. Belch was the first pastor, Rev. A. Crum at present. The religion preached in this church is of the liberal type. The Baptists also built a fine chnrch, on the south side of the town, at a cost of $12,000. Mr. Robbins donated the land. The Baptists and Congregationalists have held union services, which were conducted by the Rev. Mr. Bascom. Hinsdale is well supplied with schools. The stone building erected by Mr f Robbins was purchased by the school district, and is now maintained as a public school. Mr. O. J. Stough built a large school-house, on the north side, in which Prof. Gleason keeps a private school. The upper part of the building is called Stough's Hall, and is used by club parties and for public entertainments. The inhabitants of the suburb at present number about 1,500. The public buildings, in addition to those mentioned, are a substantial brick depot on the Chi- cago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, a small hotel, and several stores. Among the prominent residents who have built themselves comfortable homes, the following may be mentioned : Mr. Robbins, who was the fh"st settler, has a beau- tiful stone villa, half hidden in a natural grove, about a mile southeast of the depot, which, with the improvements, is valued at $35,000. Mr. Robbins first purchased, in 1864, a tract of 800 acres at $20 per acre. He has platted 480 acres of this land, and also gave the right of way to the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad when that Company decided to pass through the place. Mr. Robbins has sold about HINSDALE. 419 320 acres at various prices. Mr. Stewart, Assistant Superintendent of the American Express Company has a large French roof house and improved grounds. Mr. David Roth owns a large and comfortable house and five acres of land covered with fruit trees and shrubbery, which is valued at $15,000. Mr. E. P. Hines and Mr. H. A. Harvey, Private Secretary to the General Superintendent of the Illinois Central rail- road, occupy half a block of the highest ground on the south side, and have very pretty houses, just alike, fronting on Washington street, worth about $7,000 each. Mr. John Parker, type founder, owns the second block south of the depot, and has a comfortable house on it. The place is considered worth, at least, $20,000. Mr. J. Hulauiski, chief clerk at the C. B. & Q. R. R freight office, has a neat cottage on the same street. Mr. C. H. Hudson (lias a handsome house, on the south side, worth about $10,000. Mr. George Wells, of the firm of F. D. Cossett & Co., has a very pleasant home valued at about $8,000. Mr, E. W. Banker has a fine house on a two-acre lot, on Third avenue, worth $10,000. Mr. J. L. Hines, who has proved himself one of the most active men of the town, by building seven or eight houses, has a very comfortable home worth about $12,000. Mr. H. Esterbrook, traveling Auditor of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, has a comfortable cottage home. Mr. R. Evans, of the " Chicago Times," has a very fine cottage and four acres worth about $7,000. Mr. A. Lincoln, of the firm of C. T. Reynolds & Co., owns a home-like cottage on Main street. Mr. Crocker, attorney at law, has a nice house and grounds in a grove, on Oak street, worth $10,000. Messrs. Chapin, Allen, John and Henry Reed, of A. Reed & Sons, and Amos T. Hall, have neat cottages. Mr. Wm. McCredie, Freight Auditor of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, has a substantial house and two acres, fine grounds, in a grove, valued at $8,000. Mr. N. H. Warren, and his brother, have fine houses and improved grounds valued at $10,000 to $12,000 each. Mr. Jerry Nottingham owns two large houses, in one of which he lives. Messrs. A. A. Mann, J. W. Wilcox, J. W. Saw- yer, S. W. Hunt and Wm. Johnson, have neat cottage homes on Main street. Judge Joel Tiffany has a large, elegant house and two acres improved grounds, on Wash- ington street, valued at $16,000. Mr. Anson Ayersand Mr. Derrickson have pleas- ant homes on the same street. Mr. M. A. Donohue, book-binder, Mr. D. S. Perry, Dr. L. Bush, Mr. Thos. Lonergan and H. Bush, have comfortable homes on Lin- coln street. A plain cottage with pleasant grounds, on the corner of Walnut and Grant streets, is owned by the mother of Congressman Tom Fitch, of Nevada. Mr. O. J. Stough, who is one of the principal proprietors of the town, has a plain house situated a few blocks north of the depot on the summit of a hill, forty feet above the bed of the railroad and one hundred and eighty feet above Lake Michi- gan, in the center of a block of twelve acres, handsomely laid out with gravel roads and concrete walks, and improved 'by trees and evergreens of every variety. Mr. Stough has proved the soil to be well adapted to fruit growing. As an evidence of the success that has attended his experiments, it may be stated that 15,000 pounds of grapes were raised on a one-acre patch in 1872. Evergreens also flourish there. Some of them which were planted six years ago when only a few inches high, are now as many feet. This little hill of twelve acres has certainly been the object of care. The owner has been offered the sum of $40,000, while the original cost of the whole farm seven years ago was but $6,000. Messrs. F. Denning, W. W. Wood, M. Middleton, J. W. Hath, J. O. Bryant and D. A. Esterbrook, have hand- 420 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. some houses and beautiful grounds of from two to ten acres nicely laid out. Dr, Fisk, Mr. A. Pu^h, Mr. J. F. VanNortwick, Hon. Wm. M. Whitney, D. A. Courter, bridge builder for the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, and others, have pleasant and commodious homes. The drives from the village in every direction are very pleasant, especially to per- sons accustomed to the monotonous flats around the city. The property up to a recent date has been owned principally by Messrs. Wm, Robbins and O. J. Stough ; but Mr. S. has lately sold out his interest to a stock company composed of C. E. Bruner, Benj. Lombard and others, whose policy will be an active one. Mr. Stough has expended at Hinsdale in land and houses, which he has sold on time, no less a sum than $250,000. In the spring of 1874, Mr. Bruner, trustee, will erect fifty houses varying in value from $1,500 to $2,000 each. They are now surveying the Esterbrook tract, forty acres, preparatory to raising the streets to grade, putting in sewers, etc. Pro- fessor Thayer, of Jacksonville, 111., is negotiating for the purchase of several acres on which to erect a ladies' seminary, which will be of brick, of large (fimensions, of fine architecture, and a first-class institution. Lots are now selling at from $10 to $25 per foot. Acres bordering upon the plat at from $400 to $1,000. There are twenty-four daily trains to and from the city. The fare is $75 per year and twenty cents per ride for family tickets. The distance is traversed in from thirty to sixty minutes from the different stations in the city. CLARENDON HILLS. 42 1 CLARENDON HILLS. Clarendon Hills is twelve miles from the city limits, on the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad. There probably never was a section of land (640 acres) made in better shape for a suburban town than the east ]^ of section 10 and west ^ of section 11, town 38, north range 11, east. The gentle swells, the steeper hills — some of them extending to a height of two hundred feet above the lake leyel — and the beautiful valleys, cause almost any man accustomed to living in Chicago to remark, as he rides over it, " Well, this is ■charming ! " and, to the eye of a smart real estate man, seems to be just as good as if made to order. One of our most successful suburban town makers has said to us that he was most forcibly struck with that idea on first looking over it, seven years ago, when it was all farms ; and remarked to a friend that he would live to see that spot one of the most charming Villages abont Chicago ; and at once tried to make arrangements to buy it, but could find no person to join him at $35 per acre, on easy terms. The railroad runs through the section diagonally, leaving 370 acres on the south side, and 270 acres on the north. In 1867, Mr. O. J. Stough persuaded Mr. J. M. Walker, now President of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, to buy the part south of the Company's line for $17,000, or about $46 per acre ; and, in 1868, J. M. Walker, Robert Harris, Amos T. Hall and O. J. Stough, bought the part north of the railroad for $40,000, or about $150 per acre. Immediately after that, the entire tract was laid out in park form, with curved streets, and here and there small public grounds, and a large public park on the north line. Streets were nicely graded and planted with trees, and the idea of the enthusiastic originator seemed a simple consequence, or circumstance, to almost any one who had the pleasure of riding over the finely made streets, with the beau- tiful curves and undulations, and the lovely lawns, already made, and sloping grace- fully to the streets, on almost every acre of it. During the past year, Messrs. Holmes & Co. have purchased the larger part of the south side, for about $300 per acre, J. M. Walker reserving about twenty acres for a country seat for himself, and Dr. F. H. Walker about ten acres, on which he has a large and comfortable villa. Already about twenty-five houses, with school and meeting-houses, have been erected on the south side, and, during the coming season, will be followed by stores and a hotel. The proprietors are offering very liberal inducements to buyers, in the way of prices and terms, and, with the unrivaled qualities of the lots, cannot fail to have a large and flourishing town. No lots have been offered for sale on the north] side, but Mr.'H.'C. Middaugh is putting them in such shape that when they are put upon the market the demand cannot fail to be brisk. He has almost the entire tract rolled and grassed, fit for a gentleman's lawn ; and the streets, a handsome, smooth grade, all lined with elms and maples. During the past summer, Mr. O. J. Stough has sold his quarter interest to H. 422 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. C. Middaugh, for $30,000 ; and the half interest of Messrs. Walker, Harris and* Hall, for $50,000. Thus, the actual value of the entire section is not less than $250,000, to-day, or ten times the amount asked seven years ago. At an average of $5 per front foot, the section would figure up at a half million of dollars. Aside from the 640 acres, which is all laid out in lots from fifty to one hundred feet front, large provision has been made for parties who want ten-acre blocks, more or less. O. J. Stough owns just as beautiful land on every side of it, at the present time valued at from $200 to $500 per acre, in quantity. Outside of that circle, again, most desirable, high-rolling, rich farms can be bought from $75 to $100 per acre. DOWNER'S GROVE. The old and familiar town known as Downer's Grove contains about 450 inhab- itants, and is a place worthy of remark. It was first settled in the year 1834, by J. Blodgett, a Mr. Curtis, Judge Blanchard, and two or three others, and derived its name from one of its residents named Downer, and the large grove adjoining the village. It is situated in Du Page county, on the line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, 19 miles from the Chicago Court-house. The soil in and about the place is rich and peculiarly adapted to fruit and vegetable culture ; and being high, and underlaid with gravel, affords excellent surface drainage. About 350 acres of the village land is owned by a Chicago Company, composed of H. G. Powers, L. L. Greenleaf, A. C. Ducat and others, who propose to convert it into an attractive residence park. About twenty-five of the residents are Chicago business men, who find it advatageous to reside there, and who consider that the pleasures there secured are sufficient to liquidate the expenses incurred through railroad fares, etc, There are at present some 90 dwelling-houses (some of which are very good), three general stores, meat market, coal and lumber yard, drug store, two-story brick school-house, four organized churches and a fine hotel. In addition to these, there are perhaps a dozen other dwellings in process of erection ; and a steam mill is now contemplated by one of the enterprising citizens. THE NORTHWESTERN CAR SHOPS. The largest and principal shops of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad are now in process of erection on the Galena division of that road, just west of and adjoining the city limits, in the north half of section 10, 39, 13 in the township of Cicero. The buildings completed and readv for occupancy are a round-house, 280 feet in diameter, containing 39 stalls ; a machine shop, 552 feet long by 120 wide ; and a blacksmith and boiler shop, 402x80 feet. In addition to these, two water tanks, with each a capacity of 95,000 gallons, are nearly finished. The investment in building has thus far amounted to $350,000. All the structures are covered with fire-proof roofs, supported by iron columns, girders and stays. The Company has also put in foundations for four car shops, 302 x 80 feet each, and a storehouse 302x60- THE NORTHWESTERN CAR SHOPS. 423 feet. These will not be finished until the summer of 1874, as the Company design to furnish this winter only the buildings necessary for repairing and supplying loco- motives. From the machinery now going in they will be able to duplicate every portion of an engine ; and the intention, finally, is to make engines entire for the road. The department now being introduced will employ 700 men. When the other buildings are added the total number of men at work in them will be about 2,000. The flow of the artesian well on the premises will keep both of the gigantic tanks full and furnish all that is used for every purpose, including the heating of the buildings. The Company is putting in $200,000 worth of machinery, and nearly 1,000 men will be employed this winter. Of course, the location of such a vast industry as this, has caused a rapid rise in values of land in its vicinity, and a number of subdivisions have been made about the Company's ground. The West Chicago Land Company, an association of Chicago gentlemen, pur- chased, in 1872, the south half of section 10, paying $1,000,000 for it, and imme- diately began the sale of lots ; also 40 acres in the northwest quarter of section 10 for which they paid $40,000. George Smith, the retired banker, owned 240 acres of the first-named tract when the Company purchased. He had held it twenty-six years, having paid $5 per acre for it in 1846. In 1868, he was offered $500 per acre. After the location of the parks the next year, he raised the figure to $2,000 per acre. The Company paid him, in 1872, $3,000 per acre. They bought the tract — 80 acres — lying west of Mr. Smith's property, of Ohio parties, paying them the same price. Wm. M. Derby owns, just west of the half section described, a piece containing 140 acres ; also 80 acres in the north half of section 15. He purchased this property one year ago, paying an average of $2,000 per acre. It is now worth $4,000 per acre. The tract of the West Chicago Land Company has about 50 houses erected upon it, the values of which will run from $600 to $4,500. All the streets are opened and graded, and ten miles of sidewalks are already built. Madison street, widened to 130 feet, graded and macadamized, and overlaid with fine gravel, as far as the west line of Cicero — a distance of four miles — skirts the southern line of the Land Co. 's prop- erty. The Chicago & Northwestern railroad has a passenger depot at each side of the Land Company's interest, viz. at Fortieth and Forty-eighth streets, and the shops are located just north of it across the track, and extend from Fortieth to Forty-fifth street. Central Park is only two blocks from its eastern boundary, thus giving resi- dents the benefit of a park without burdening them with city or park taxes. The men employed on the works will, as a general thing, accept the liberal inducements offered by the Land Company and bring their families there to live. Thus it is reasonable to estimate that a population of from 8,000 to 10,000 will soon gather at that point. J. D. Harvey, 174 LaSalle street, is the general agent for the sale of the Land Co.'s property. Mr. C. E. Crafts, a real estate dealer of this city, owns 40 acres just west of the works. He has been very successful in making sales in lots and blocks from his property, both from its nearness to the railroad track and from its being only a little east of the thriving village of Austin, and but a few steps from the West Forty-eighth street depot. A switch is already put down on the south side of his tract, and a desirable manufacturing site is afforded to any who wish to purchase for that purpose. The two interests above noted are the only ones in the immediate vicinity of the works where property is now for sale in lots and blocks. 424 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. AUSTIN. Austin is the first suburban point on the Galena Division of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad. It was laid out in 1866, having, as its projectors, a clock manufacturing company. Fire, however, soon brought this enterprise to an end by the destruction of the factory. But the location possessed intrinsic merits of its own, which, when once attention had been attracted, rendered its settlement as a suburban town a matter of certainty. Its original subdivision comprised a mile square ; now it has grown to twice that size. At first nobody lived in it except on the north side of the railroad, now there is a large number of neat cottage resi- dences on the south side also. There are, it is claimed, 1,000 people living at the place, nearly all the heads of families, who do business in the city. Austin is the seat of government of Cicero township, and the town-house, a fine brick building, two stories in height, stands in the center of a tract of four acres known as " Holden Park." The building contains a hall capable of seating five hundred persons. The cost of the structure was $25,000. Almost directly north of the town-hall is located the public-school building, three stories in height, with excellent basement accommodations, and spacious play grounds, the whole costing about $18,000. This has been pronounced by educational experts one of the very best schools in the county. The number of scholars in attendance is over 150, and is constantly increasing. The oldest organized church denomination in the village is the Methodist Epis- copal, the members of which have recently completed the erection of a handsome edifice at a cost of $8,000. It is capable of seating two hundred persons. The pas- tor is the Rev. Mr. Marsh. The Baptist people organized in 1871, and last year erected a substantial building at a cost of $7,000. Its pastor, since the organiza- tion of the society, has been the Rev. Mr. Alex. Blackburn. The seating capacity of this church is two hundred. The Presbyterian church is under the care of the Rev. E. N. Barrett. Mr. I. W. Bennett donated the lot at the southeast corner of Central avenue and Frink street — a beautiful site — and $10,000 has been sub- scribed toward the cost of erecting the church edifice. From these statements it will be readily seen that the village is well provided with educational and religious advantages. The increase in the value of real estate in this suburb has given the early pur- chasers a handsome profit. Good lots were to be had near the depot in the early part of 1869 at $5 per foot. The same land to-day would sell readily for $30, $40, and $50 per front foot. In all parts of the town the ratio of increase has been nearly as great, except in the case of some undivided tracts lying at the outskirts which have never been put upon the market. In Mr. Austin's tracts, lying west and northwest of the center of the town, some lots 120 feet square, and some 120x150 feet, are offered at from $12.50 to $25 per foot. On the south side of the railroad track an active movement in real estate has sprung up within the past two years, and already many improvements have been made. Lots with from 25 feet to 50 feet frontage by 175 feet in depth, have been selling at prices ranging frofh $15 to $40 per front foot, according to location. RIDGELAND. 425 A subdivision was recently made by Mr. C. E. Crafts, a real estate operator in this city, of a plat south of the railroad track, possessing graveled and sewered streets, and accessible from Madison street. Parties resident in Austin, or on the lands lying east owned by Mr. Crafts, are within easy distance of the west side parks. In the immediate future, Central Park, with all its sylvan beauties, will be •open to the residents in this suburb, free from all park assessments. An excellent drainage system is one of the characteristics of Austin. Sewers are already laid half a mile in length from west to east, and one mile in length from north to south ; and will be extended in both directions as fast as public necessities demand them. The location of the village upon a high ridge, 36^ feet above the Chicago river, and with a gentle slope to the south, renders the successful drainage of the village a comparatively easy task. Among the other attractions of this place is Merrick Park, a tract of seven acres, located in the center of the village and moderately well improved. The park takes its name from Mr. C. C. Merrick, who donated it for public use. Four years ago, the number of Austin people traveling to and from the city was less than ten. Trains run hourly during the day between the two points. The commutation rate of tickets is one hundred rides for $7.50 ; yearly tickets $50. The time occupied is only twenty-five minutes. In the eastern part of the suburb known as Bridges' addition to Chicago are quite a number of residences all built within the past three years. Property here -shows a rapid appreciation in value. The village government is vested in a Board of Trustees, who have the same pow- ers as those pertaining to our City Council. Among the prominent persons living at this superb are the following : Col. Warner, C. E. Crafts, Col. Lyman Bridges, Messrs. Sprague, Hughes, Bassett, Sher- wood, Barker, Hitchcock, Philbrick and others. RIDGELAND. On the line of the Northwestern railroad, between Austin and Oak Park, and •one mile from either of these stations, is located the young and thrifty village of Ridgeland. The town is three miles west of the city limits, and seven and three- fourths miles from the Wells street depot. The original owners of the town were J. W. Scoville, President of the Prairie State Loan and Trust Company, Hon. W. B. Ogden, Mahlon D. Ogden, Joel D. Harvey, and Josiah Lombard. The cost •of the tract to these parties was about $700 an acre, except that held by the Ogden interest, which^ was bought from the Government at $1.75 per acre. Platting was commenced in the fall of 1871, but it was not until May, 1872, that the first work of improvement was begun. The streets were then graded, maple trees planted, and a depot costing about $4,000 was erected. It is one of the best suburban de- pots on the Northwestern road. A large amount of sidewalk has also been laid, probably three or four miles. An artesian well was commenced, and a depth of 1,200 feet had been reached, when the drill was lost, and the contractors had to 426 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. sink a new shaft. The second attempt was more successful. At a depth of 1,630 feet, a fine flow of water was reached. The well is the second largest in the county. At the present time there are some fifteen or twenty houses in the place, all of fair proportions, and costing from $2,000 to $5,000 each. The work of building new residences was carried on with energy during the fall of 1873. Among the parties who are now living at Ridgeland are E. A. Cummings, of the real estate firm of S. M. Moore & Cummings, LaSalle street ; J. Frank Richmond, attor- ney ; George Butters, of the firm of Wm. A. Butters & Co. ; Geo. W. Schoonhoven, insurance agent ; F. E. Spooner, manager of the firm of T. M. Avery & Co., lum- ber dealers ; Col. Kungle ; and others. The land has good drainage towards the south, and is forty-six feet above the level of the lake. The lots are 50 x 170 feet in size, and sell at from $15 to $20 per foot, They all front on 80-foot streets. Ridgeland, from its position between the suburbs of Oak Park and Austin, cher- ishes hopes that it may yet incorporate the two. Already it is thinking of organiz- ing a company to supply gas for both places, and the project of erecting a hotel is contemplated. Next spring it is intended to plant more trees, to lay sewerage pipes through the town, and mains to connect the artesian well with every lot in the suburb. The population reside, for the most part, on the north side of the railroad, but a prosperous settlement may be looked for on both sides. In addition to the railroad facilities, the suburb is accessible by three principal streets — Chicago avenue, Lake and Madison streets. OAK PARK. Oak Park, with its twin sister Harlem, is one of the oldest suburbs of the city. These towns were settled about the year 1854, and have progressed quietly, but surely, ever since. Both places have been remarkable from the fact that they have not been the subject of reckless speculation, and have in consequence acquired a most gratifying measure of esteem among suburban people, which bears its fruit in high prices and excellent society. Oak Park is some sixty feet above the level of the lake, and possesses excellent drainage. The water supply is obtained from wells, which furnish good, wholesome water, at a depth of fifteen to twenty feet. The subsoil is gravely, and the whole surroundings of the suburb are conducive to> health. Oak Park has always been a favorite resort for literary and religious people. It possesses several handsome churches, one or two of which call for special mention. The Congregationalists living in this suburb have in process of erection a church building which will cost $30,000, and in the lower rooms of which they expect to hold service during the coming winter. Mr. J. "W. Scoville, who lives in an elegant residence at the east part of the town, is one of the most liberal contributors to the building fund, and has been ably seconded by the hearty liberality of many of the residents of the suburb. The church is built of Lyons stone, and occupies a prom- RIVER FOREST. 427 inent position in the village. The steeple rises to a height of one hundred and fifty- feet. The congregation are to be congratulated in having secured the Rev. George Huntington, an able divine, as their pastor. The Methodists are also erecting a substantial church of brick, with stone cappings, at a cost of about $15,000. The work on this church is somewhat more advanced than on that of the Congregation- alists, and the congregation expects to be able to worship in the large room within a few weeks. The minister, appointed by the late conference, to occupy the pulpit of this church, is the Rev. Mr. Strowbridge, late pastor of the Ada street Methodist church. The Episcopalians have a neat church edifice in Harlem ; the Unitarians a modest sanctuary in Oak Park. The latter place has as yet no town organization, but there are excellent graded schools^, and substantial buildings covering the plat. The sale of 'real estate in the suburb has been rather quiet during the year, no attempt whatever having been made to force it. Prices have ranged from $10 to $75 a foot, according to location. The original owner of the land was Mr. Joseph Kettlestrings, who purchased at the Government price of $1.25 per acre. Mr. Ket- tlestrings still lives in the village, and has seen his property increase in value in rapid ratio. Two years ago, it was sold at $3,000 per acre. The village was sub- divided in 1858 ; for some years, however, but little was done in the way of settle- ment. In the neighborhood of this suburb, land can be purchased at from $1,000 to $3,000 per acre. During the present season, about thirty houses have been built, at an average cost of $3,000 to $5,000. The houses in Oak Park, with very few exceptions, are substantial, large and handsome ; and generally they are on good sized lots. Among the woo ded groves which surround the town, and from which it derives its name, are to be found many elegant residences. Noticeable among them are those of Hon. H. W. Austin, mem- ber of the late Legislature ; J. W. Scoville, President of the Prairie State Loan and Trust Company ; J. H. Hurlburt, of the Board of Trade ; T. P. Stone, and W. H. Wood, trustees for the Couch estate. Among other handsome houses, are to be mentioned those of J. K. Russell, E. O. Gale, A. J. Cheney, J. W. Middleton, Geo. Sharp, Geo. Eckhart, O. C. Blackmer, Geo. Everts, J. Kettlestrings, P. Smith, A. T. Hemingway, real estate dealer, and others. In Harlem, Mr. J. H. S. Quirk has per- haps the finest residence. In addition to the clergymen mentioned above, Rev. J. E. Roy, Superintendent of Home Missions, and Rev. S. J. Humphrey, Western Superintendent of Foreign Missions, have excellent residences in this delightful suburb. RIVER FOREST. The three several subdivisions of the tract known as River Forest were made about four years ago, by Roger Fowler, Geo. L. and S. Thatcher, and Mr. Lathrop. The plat is 500 acres in area, located in sections 1, 2, 11 and 12, in township 3g»- range T2, eleven miles directly west of the city, and adjoining Harlem on the west, on the line of the Galena division of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad. The station has a service of 12 trains each day. The fare is $65 for annual tickets, $12.50 for 100 rides, and 35 cents single ticket. On the east shore of the Desplaines, which here takes a deep bend to the west, 428 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. about 70 acres are laid out in private park grounds, covered with natural growth timber, and divided into very eligible sites for homesteads of the better class. West of this, 130 acres is figured with curvilineal avenues 100 feet wide, and the lots laid out accordingly. East of this piece, 100 acres are laid out in a park, which will be preserved without subdivison for ten years. This is ornamented in a style which favorably compares with the regime of our city parks improvement. The regularly laid out lots and blocks lie to the north of the portions above described. They are from 50 to 100 feet in width and from 200 to 300 feet deep. Lake street passes through the southern portion of the village tract, and is continued by a bridge over the Desplaines river. The public improvements consummated are a brick school- house, with graded departments, and which was built at an outlay of $10,000 in 1865. On the last examination day of the county schools outside of the city, this was voted the banner school. A Methodist church is also about completed at a cost thus far of about $10,000. About fifty houses are completed, ranging in value from $2,000 to $25,000 each. 444 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. S. M. Davis, Esq., Mr. W. S. Warren, Mr. J. S. Quigg, Mr. Miles, Mr. Compton, Mr. A. Paige, and others. The principal advantages offered by Irving Park are, first, such proximity to the city as to afford quick transit, cheap fares, and an entirely practicable resort to horse-and-buggy or carriage transportation, or even walking if necessary ; second, good drainage into the North Branch (at this point a clear running stream), a mile and a half east ; third, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul as an alternative railroad, offering first class accommodation, and landing passengers in the heart of the resi- dence quarter ; and fourth, and perhaps chiefly, a copious supply of artesian well water, furnished in pipes to all householders, and flowing in sufficient volume (300,000 gallons per day,) to supply a population of 5,000, or double that number if fountains, and other like "extras" are dispensed with. These advantages, coupled with a remarkably pushing policy, have enabled the Races and those associated with them, to populate their village with surprising rapidity and enormous profit to them- selves, within the short period of four years, one of which was seriously cut into by the great conflagration. Some estimate of the profits may be formed from the fact that the average cost of each acre in 1869 is now being got back six times over, in every lot 50x150 odd feet sold by the proprietors. Here is the history of the enterprise in a nut shell. The ground which now constitutes the village plat was bought as follows : 160 acres of it in 1869, by C. T. Race, from one Noble, an old settler, who, having paid $2.50 per acre for it in 1833, thought $135 per acre as large a price as he could ask and still have a hope of heaven ; 100 acres by R. T. Race from John Gray, in the same year, at $325 per acre ; and 140 acres more by A. E. Brown and others at prices varying from $500 to $1,000 per acre. The first year, lots were sold at $10 per foot, with the under- standing that the buyer should build. From that they gradually rose until now boulevard lots command $40 per front foot, and the east fronts on other choice streets $35 per foot. The plan followed by the proprietors of affording aid to par- ties who will build, enable them to push off many more lots than they otherwise would sell, and usually to get ten per cent, interest on the capital thus invested. Mr. Benj. Lombard purchased sixty lots, located around the lower depot, eighteen months ago, selecting them from the best sites for business and other purposes. He has realized on the forty lots since sold from $30 to $50 per front foot ; the lots which brought the highest figures being business property adjacent to the station. He paid $20 per foot for his interest in exchange for the old Lombard block. The northwest quarter of the southwest quarter of section 15, being a portion of the Irving Park plat, was bought by Chas. Dickinson, a number of years ago, for $100 per acre. In 1872, he sold his interest at from $4,000 to $5,000 per acre. The first addition to Irving Park was made by James Baxter in 1869. His in- terest was twenty acres in section 15, 40, 13. One-half of this has been sold at a profit of 400 per cent., and the balance of the property has increased much more since the erection, only two blocks distant from it, of a depot building by the Chi- cago & Milwaukee railroad company. Railroad fares to Irving Park are $7.20 per hundred and $3.50 per thirty rides (the latter transferable within the family), and $35 per year. These rates are offered by both the roads running to Irving Park, which, between them, furnish seven trains each way per day stopping at this station. GRAYLAND. 445 GRAYLAND Adjoins Irving Park on the southwest, and is situated near the center of the town of Jefferson, on the line of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railroad. The sub- division was made in the spring of 1873, and was originally the extensive farm of Mr. John Gray, and hence the subdivision was christened Grayland. The tract is well situated, and is high and healthful, and has the advantage of a station on the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul r-ailroad, whose policy in passenger traffic is more liberal than that of the majority of the railroads leading from the city. The com- mutation rate on this road is an almost perfect arrangement, there being ten, twenty and thirty-ride tickets, besides the usual hundred-ride and transferable family tick- ets. The Chicago & Northwestern railroad Cut-off crosses the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railroad, at a point a few hundred feet northwest of Grayland station. The Company has decided to put on suburban trains which will make, at least, four trips a day. This railroad corporation has spared no expense in perfecting the road. It is laid with steel rails, and is handsomely graded, The rolling stock is all new and first class in every respect. Another advantageous mode of transit between the city and Grayland, is by the Milwaukee plank- road, a splendid drive, which passes directly through the subdi- vision. It is highly convenient for farmers living beyond. A resident of Grayland is, by this means, enabled to purchase anything which is usually furnished by farmers, as hundreds of wagon loads of provisions, etc., pass along the plank-road every day. An artesian well, now completed, supplies the entire subdivision with water. Pipes are being laid throughout the town, and as fast as houses are erected, water is conveyed to the premises. The station has a telegraph office and operator, which is a convenience rarely met with in small places. The subdivision is yet new, still with the bright pros- pects now before it, the place must soon become populous. The suburb is three and a quarter miles from the city limits. Land values have largely advanced during the past five years, as the following citations indicate : Acre property was sold five years ago at $100 per acre ; three years afterwards, $700 per acre was obtained, and recently $20 per foot was refused, thus showing that land at that point is continually appreciating in value. About $30,000 worth of improvements were made during the summer of last year. They are of a character that will tend to attract first-class inhabitants. Mr. John Gray is building an excellent residence, two stories and French roof, besides basement, in height, which will cost upward of $20,000. It is constructed of brick, and is elaborately finished, and supplied with all modern appliances. The grounds about the mansion are to be highly ornamented, and will be in perfect keeping with the manifold beauties of the surroundings. 446 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. MONTROSE. This place is located at the junction of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul with two branches of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad, in the town of Jefferson. It is distant from the Court-house eight miles, in a northwest direction. The railways Map of Montrose, Showing Distance From Court-House. have each a depot erected, at different points. Water is had in abundance from •artesian wells sunk in different places.. The suburb is one of the pleasantest, nearest and most accessible about the city. To show how these advantages have been appreciated, some facts connected with its history are mentioned. JEFFERSON. 447 Eighty acres of the plat now embraced in Montrose was purchased by Dr. Gibbs, twenty years ago, from its first proprietor, a Mr. Kippe, for $800. The doc- tor, after owning it nineteen years, sold to J. F. Eberhardt, at $75 per acre. Three years later, Mr. John Souerbry purchased it for $325 per acre and sold, immediately after the purchase, an undivided three-quarter interest, to a company of non-residents, for $24,000, and has recently transferred ten acres of the remain- der to Messrs. Reynolds and Warren, for $17,000. This leaves ten acres still under his ownership. Mr. Joseph Liebenstein has forty acres on the west side of the place, extending along Forest and Sherman avenues and Montrose boulevard, which were purchased by Theobald Maurer, at an early date, at $3 per acre. He sold to Mr. Leibenstein for $26 per acre, about nineteen years ago. The latter gentleman is now selling lots at from $20 to $25 per foot, or from $6,500 to $10,000 per acre. There are sev- eral good houses erected upon Mr. Leibenstein's subdivision. One of the depots stands in the center of it, and another only a few rods away from its south border. The Benjamin Lombard interest is the west one-half of the southwest quarter of section 15, 40, 13, running north from Irving Park boulevard to Montrose boule- vard, and along the east side of Jefferson avenue. All the streets are graded, and the lots surrounded with trees and two-inch dressed plank sidewalk. Twenty-three houses are built upon it, costing from $1,800 to $3,500 each. A large sewer put in on Lombard avenue gives perfect drainage to the tract. A contract is now closed for the erection, in the spring of '74, of thirty-six new houses. A good church and school-house stand on this interest. This tract last described is a part of eighty acres purchased in 1855, by Timothy Fay, for $5,000. Including the sale to Mr. Lombard, the sum realized on this tract, thus far, is about $125,000. Lots in Lom- bard's subdivision sell now at from $20 to $30 per foot. In 1869, Mr. F. D. Cossett purchased eighty acres lying east of the railroads. This is subdivided, and realizes from $20 to $25 per foot. An excellent artesian well is situated on this tract. Montrose is only twenty-eight minutes ride from the city, and commutation rates are seven cents and a fraction per ride, or at a less rate by the vear. JEFFERSON. Jefferson is located on Milwaukee avenue, eight miles from the Court-house, on the Northwestern railroad. In 1855, Mr. D. L. Roberts, the owner of the lands, laid out and recorded a map of the village of Jefferson. Its settlement was active, and nearly fifty dwellings were erected at that time. Mr. Roberts died shortly after, and his heirs having held the property until 1868, Mr. D. W. Eldred made a pur- chase of the interest lying east of the railroad, amounting to 154 acres. In the two succeeding years, this tract was re-subdivided into lots of 25 feet and 50 feet frontage, and of 125 to 160 feet depth. The streets are all graded, and have shade trees set and sidewalks laid. The village being 70 feet higher than the level of the lake, the drainage is perfect. Fine views of the surrounding country are obtained from all portions of the tract. 448 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The population of Jefferson is about 800 persons, and nearly all the trades and professions are represented. There are two taverns, two dry-goods stores, a drug store, markets and other business improvements in operation. A pleasant church has been erected by Congregationalists, and two schools are provided. Among the principal residents of this suburb are Clark Roberts, Deacon Dunning, Dr. Farns- worth, Jas. D. Mattison, Joel Ellis, Chas. Peters, T. Shultz, D. N. Kelsey, D. L. Perry, N. t E. Davison, R. P. Williams and D. W. Eldred. The price of land in Jefferson has shown a steady advance. Mr. Eldred paid $100 an acre in 1868 for his purchase. Recently 100 feet of this have been sold at $30 per foot. The place is more a market town for the surrounding agricultural population than a suburb of Chicago ; though the latter function is rapidly gaining upon the former. NORWOOD PARK Is located about eleven miles from the city, on the Wisconsin Division of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad. It contains about 860 acres of land, subdivided in the year 1869, by a company composed of Chicago gentlemen known as the " Norwood Park Land and Building Association." This Company had the exclusive control of the place for three or four years, during which time many improvements were made. The work accomplished while the village was under the jurisdiction of the Company alluded to consisted of laying out and perfecting streets, constructing sidewalks, planting shade trees and building houses. It was managed by a board of trustees, composed of John F. Eberhardt, Jas. E. Tyler and George Field. This Board was compelled, by agreement, to build twenty houses, which they did ; and from the time of the completion of these dwellings the success of the place was sub- stantially established. The property was placed in the hands of many different agents ; the agency of Mr. L. Hodges proving the most effectual, he having trans- ferred more of the property than any of the others. The suburb has become popular with suburban buyers, by reason of the excellent improvements already consum- mated, the eligibility of the lands, and the healthfulness of the locality. The plat is a beautiful ridge of considerable elevation, and overlooks many miles of country. The consequent gradual slope from the apex furnishes a perfect drainage. The plan of subdivision is tasty and pleasing, and is the result of a careful study of the topog- raphy of the land. The streets are laid out both rectangular and curvilineal — the idea being to provide the most pleasant residence sites for parties who are able to build handsome mansions upon them, and add the appliances of art and taste to the natural attractiveness of their grounds. At the time of purchase, the price paid was from $100 to $125 per acre. The land is now being sold at from $10 to $35 per front foot, or from $2,500 to $8,750 per acre. In the plan, a number of fine parks are laid out, and form an impor- tant and attractive feature of the place. One of these, five acres in area, is situ- ated on West Circle avenue and Colfax place ; a second, of the same extent, on Myrtle avenue and Grant place ; another in a circular form, 400 feet in diameter, in NORWOOD PARK. 449 the center of which is the neat depot building ; and another around the elegant hotel building illustrated with this article. All these parks have been made the objects of considerable outlay, and are handsome in plan, and in improvements made upon them. The hotel was erected by the Association at an expense of $10,000. The grounds about it are very handsomely improved. The structure is supplied with water in abundance and of excellent quality by the artesian well sunk for that purpose. Norwood Park Hotel. The American Reformed Society has a $10,000 church edifice on Mulberry avenue, and the Baptist congregation have a handsome building, which cost $2 000 on the corner of Vine and West Circle avenues. These churches are certainly'of a better class than those generally found in suburbs of so recent an origin. _ At the corner of Walnut and Chestnut streets stands a good brick school-house, with accommodation for 150 scholars. The building improvements are at present situated almost entirely on the south side of the railroad track, though the north side is equally as eligible, and a company has been formed, with an authorized capital of $100,000, for the purpose of improv- ing this portion of the town plat. The officers are John F. Eberhardt, President • C J. Corse, Secretary ; and George Dunlap, Treasurer. Their title is the Norwood 29 450 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. Park Building Company, and, as the name implies, their plans are to erect build- ings for settlers and make other improvements requisite to the success of their ven- ture. The commutation rates of railway fare are 13 cents per ride, or $68 for annual tickets. The values of the dwellings — of which there are a large number built and occu- pied — range from $2,500 to $6,000 each. A number of our own business citizens have chosen this suburb for a home. Among the residents are the following well-known Chicago business men : George Dunlap, L. B. Shephard, F. H. Seymour, M. D. Stevens, C. J. Corse, John F. Eberhardt, Pleasant Amick, B. Holbrook, L. C. Collins, James Guilbert, R. Pol- lock, D. H. Lincoln, C. J. De Berard, Frank Duck, M. Winchell, A. D. Reid, G. H. Thayes, H. V. Reed. Thos. Wilson purchased at various times numerous blocks on the north side of the railroad track, at prices ranging from $3 to-$5 a foot, and in 1873 laid out and platted a new subdivision, known as "Wilson's re-subdivision of blocks 75, 76, 77,. 83, 84, 85, 86, 92, 93 and 94 in Norwood Park," containing 404 lots. About half of these have since been sold at prices ranging from $7 to $11 a foot, and the re- mainder are firmly held at prices still higher. Mr. Wilson has also purchased block 67, and re-subdivided it. This is a large and beautiful block, high, and near the railway depot. The property of the Building Company adjoins this. RIDGELAWN. This place was, until recently, known as Canfield. The first purchasers of the tract, the Illinois and Wisconsin Land Company, paid $21 per acre some twenty years ago. The Company laid out the three hundred acres included in the plat, into lots and blocks, with the intention of making a town. The crisis of '57, and the failure of the railway project, on which the operations were based, caused the abandonment of the plan, and the land was sold at from $40 to $50 per acre. Thus the subdivision remained at a stand-still until the summer of 1873, when Mr, A. C. Badeau purchased sixty-five acres of it at $600 per acre, and rechristened his interest Ridgelawn. The name is appropriate, as the suburb lies on the dividing ridges on the line of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad, fully ninety-five feet above the lake level, in full view of the thriving villages of Norwood Park and Park Ridge, and only a short distance from either. Its distance from the city is eleven miles. Messrs. A. & L. S. Pierce have held a heavy interest in this place, which is now owned by Mr. Geo. H. Pierce. All the proprietors are about to improve on a large scale. Mr. Badeau will build several fine houses immediately, and will open up and grade streets, lay sidewalks and plant trees. He will include in his building oper- ations a handsome residence for himself. Mr. Pierce has already done a great deal of grading and tree-planting on the tract owned by him, and will build a number of houses in the spring. PARK RIDGE. 45 I Among the advantages peculiar to this suburb is its easy walking distance from the schools and churches of Norwood Park and Park Ridge. The slope each way from the top of the ridge affords excellent drainage, and consequently insures a healthy atmosphere. Great inducements are offered by all the owners to parties buying under obligation to build. The railway fare, by the year, amounts to II cents a ride, and six trains stop each way. A handsome park is being laid out near the depot grounds. Excellent and never failing water is obtained at depths of from 20 to 30 feet from the surface. The high and dry nature of the soil is favorable to good cellars, and the effective arrangement of grounds. Artesian wells will be sunk without delay, from which pipes will be run to any part of the town. c PARK RIDGE. This eligible suburb is on the Wisconsin Division of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad, about thirteen miles from the Court-house. It is situated on the dividing ridge between the waters of Lake Michigan and the Mississippi river, and has an altitude of one hundred and thirty feet above the lake. Owing to this altitude, it is especially noted for the salubrity of its atmosphere. It is especially exempt from malarious diseases, and, in the seasons most remarkable in ague history, it wholly escaped the attacks of the shaking demon. In common with most of the suburbs of Chicago, the land was, in the first place, pre-empted and occupied as farms. The first owners were Mancel Talcott, Joseph Mitchell, Josias Warner, Stephen Selker, and Mr. Balo, a German. Away back in 1855, when the railroad was located, a brick manufactory was started on the present location of Park Ridge, and the unpoetical founders con- tented themselves with the dull, practical name of Brickton. But the manufacture of bricks proceeded equally well in a hamlet of that name, and, until the occur- rence of the great fire, Brickton supplied a large quantity of the red bricks which were sold in the Chicago market. With the fire there came a change — not that the demand for bricks was less, but that the call for good, healthy suburban residence property was more. Brickton shook itself up, and merged into a new name — Park Ridge — one of the best located, as also one of the most promising of ihe city's suburbs. The original plat of Brickton comprised only one hundred and sixty acres ; but since the name was changed, large additions have been made, chiefly by Leonard Hodges, Esq., J. H. Burns, and J. H. Butler. The village was recently organized, with corporate powers and privileges, and now includes some twelve hundred acres of choice lands. The sentiment of the people being decidedly adverse, there has not, since the settlement of the village, been a single saloon or tippling-house tol- erated within its borders. Following this, perhaps almost necessarily, the society of Park Ridge is first class, and its members all reputable, religious and law- loving people. They appreciate so well their pleasant country retreat, that they are decidedly adverse to allowing any objectionable element to obtrude therein. Hitherto they have succeeded, and the future is not likely to see any change in this respect. 452 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. The town possesses excellent school facilities, a properous Methodist church, a Congregational society, and two well attended Sabbath-schools. There are two or three stores ; blacksmith's and carpenter's shops ; a lumber, wood and coal yard ; and a planing mill. A large and extensive manufactory of brick, drain tiles and pottery is in operation ; and excellent supplies of building material are to be ob- tained on the ground. Among the chief improvements which have been recently completed, must be mentioned the elegant suburban hotel structure, erected, at a cost of $15,000, by L. Hodges, Esq. The hotel occupies a square, being sixty feet in width by sixty feet in length, and is built in the favorite Gothic style of architecture. This hostelry is located near the depot, and is surrounded by handsome parks, from which graveled drives lead to all parts of the suburb. Mr. Hodges purchased two hundred ares, in 1872, at a cost of from $125 to $300 per acre, and since that time has been offered $1,200 per acre for portions lying near the railroad track, and has refused the money. This enterprising gentleman has set out many hundreds of shade trees, has graded four miles of streets lying north and south of the railroad, and estab- lished two parks on his property. Mr, Balo, one of the original owners, sold out his interest in April, 1873, to Mr. Wm. E. Smith, who agreed to give $25 per acre. In the following June, Messrs. D. B. Dewey & Co. bought of Mr. Smith, at $300 per acre, and subdivided the tracts into blocks and lots, under the name of Union Subdivision. They have held the property at from $5 to $10 per foot. The first sales made were of ten lots, at $10 per foot. They were offered $500 per acre for the whole tract of forty acres, but refused. W. W. Powell bought forty acres at the Ridge, recently, of Gustin, Wallace & Dale, paying $18,000 for it. The residents of Park Ridge include many business men of Chicago who have generally chosen to erect pleasant, substantial residences, and to adorn the grounds in which the houses stand with all the talent and ingenuity that the landscape artist or lover of esthetics could desire. Among the residences specially worthy of note are those owned by G. A. Carpenter, Gilbert Hubbard, Mrs. Penny, A. Dickenson, R. W. Meacham, M. C. Sherwin, and J. C. Outhet. On the south side of the line, the following gentlemen, in addition to Mr. Hodges, have purchased tracts of land, and are engaged in making valuable and extensive im- provements : Messrs. R. Gustin, J. M. "Wallace, D. B. Dewey, J. T. Dale, and W. E. Smith. DESPLAINKS. 453 DESPLAINES. This town is situated seventeen miles from the Court-house, on the Wisconsin Division of the Northwestern railroad, and on the banks of the Desplaines river. It is one of the oldest settlements in the vicinity of Chicago, and, though possess- ing many natural advantages, has made but little progress as a suburb until about a year ago. The first settler was Mr. Alfred Parsons, who, in the year 1847, purchased four sections of land on the banks of the Desplaines river at this point, two sections from the General Government and two from the State Government, at $5.00 per acre. He built himself a small house thereon and farmed the land. This house was for years the only human habitation for miles around. Mr. Parsons, a few years ago, built himself a better and larger house on the site of the old one, at a cost of about $3,500, in which he lives at present. He still owns 1,900 acres of the land, which he values at from $200 to $500 per acre. In the year 1856, the Illinois & Wisconsin Land Company purchased a large amount of territory at this point, and founded a village, which they named Rand. The railroad station being called after the river, "Desplaines," the post office " Maine," and the village, Rand, led to some confusion, but finally the name of Desplaines was adopted. It remained, however, but little more than a name for several years. The financial crisis of 1857 crippled the Land Company so that little was done by that concern to improve the many natural advantages of the new suburb. Mr. Simeon Lee settled there in 1859, and invested considerably in real estate, established a lumber business, planing mill, coal yard, etc., which he still carries on, Mr. Lee has displayed considerable energy in building up and improving the place. In i860, the "Chicago District Camp-ground Association " was organized by the Methodist churches of the northwest, and thirty-three acres of beautiful grove land on the east side of the Desplaines river and near the village, was purchased for the purpose of holding annual camp meetings. There are several hundred cottages, some of them handsome and commodious, and all of them neat looking, on the camp-ground, making quite a village. Indeed, the camp meetings have hitherto been the feature of the place. It is claimed that there were some 30,000 people present at the National Camp Meeting held here in 1870 ; and the meetings are attended by multitudes of earnest christians every year. The Chicago & Northwestern Agricultural and Mechanical Association own a large tract of land on the west side of the river, opposite the camp-ground, where the annual fair of the Association is held. In 1870, under the old constitution, an act of incorporation was obtained for the village which placed all the territory for two miles square under the control of the town authorities, which limit includes the camp-ground. The village is situated in the center of the square on the banks of the river. The land is high and rolling, with alternate hills and ravines, covered irregularly with clusters of timber of 454 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. many varieties. The natural lay of the land is such as would render it desirable as a place of residence, being a high, rolling plateau sloping toward the river, giving easy surface drainage. The banks of the river rise twenty feet above the surface of the water, and the land around is about one hundred and twenty-five feet above the surface of Lake Michigan. Excellent water is obtained from wells twenty feet deep. The river affords good boating in the summer season. Residence of Ira Brown. The physical and spiritual wants are equally well supplied ; the former by four store?, which keep every article of family use on hand, and the latter by four well conducted churches — a Congregational church, which cost $25,000, and which will seat 750 people ; a Methodist church which will seat 600, and cost $15,000 ; a Luth- eran chui-ch which cost $5,000 ; and a Catholic church, costing $3,000. These churches are all well attended. There are four hotels, a post-office and telegraph- office, two good schools, and shops of every kind in the village. Among the principal residents, are Messrs. J. N. W. Sherman, Maj. Bradley, M. Southworth, Elias A. Thomas, E. G. Stiles, Simeon Lee, Theodore Tillotson, W. Gruss, Charles Racine, Julius Cook, Hiram Jefferson, E. Bennett, Messrs. Whit- comb, Jones, Cluster, and many others. ARLINGTON HEIGHTS. 455 While the Land Company held the property little was done toward improve- ment, but that concern having disposed of its interest, and private individuals hav- ing taken hold of the property, considerable enterprise has recently been displayed dn developing the suburb. Mr. Ira Brown, of Chicago, purchased two hundred and twenty acres a year ago, which he subdivided into lots of twenty-five foot front and offered for sale at $100 each, at which rate he has sold some two hundred lots. He lias also built several neat cottages, which he has sold on credit, to be paid for in monthly installments by actual settlers. Several other real estate dealers have invested in the town, and are improving and disposing of their property by aiding persons to build. Among the best resi- dences in the village are those of Messrs. Ira Brown, McPherson, Thomas, Parsons and Lee, which cost from $3,oocrto $5,000 each. The elegant mansion which we illustrate, is to be erected by Mr. Brown during the coming spring. A fine park of two and one-half acres, running from the depot to Mr. Brown's addition, has been laid out and ornamented with trees. . The property owners have -contributed $10,000 toward improving this park, which will greatly add to the beauty of the village. The inhabitants of the village at present number about 800 ; and there can be no doubt but that, as property in other suburbs advances, the natural advantages of Desplaines will become more generally known and appreciated. At present, prop- erty is held at a much lower figure than at most other points of equal importance and equal distance from the city. The railway facilities for reaching the city are all that could be desired. There .are .eight daily trains .each way, all stopping at Desplaines. ARLINGTON HEIGHTS. (FORMERLY DUNTON.) Like many others of Chicago's suburban villages, Arlington Heights deserves special notice in this volume. It dates back to 1837, when Mr. Asa Dunton, because of the excellence and desirability of the land and location for farming purposes, laid "claim" for the sake of his sons, W. H. and James, then minors, to a half section, by plowing a furrow around that amount of land. In the year 1844, W. H. Dunton ■entered the site of the original town, the title coming from the Government. In 1853, the Northwestern Railroad was constructed to this place, and trains com- menced running in November of that year. The name "Dunton" was given the town by the railroad company. The original town plat consisted of 80 acres, but other subdivisions and additions have since been made, so as to increase the total acreage of the town to 250. This tract is located 22 miles from the Court-house, on the dividing ridge between the Desplaines river and Salt Creek, descending to the south and east. It is free from analarial atmosphere, and in consequence is remarkably healthy. Arlington Heights has not until recently assumed any considerable suburban 456 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. importance, but Chicago parties, in connection with the Messrs. Dunton, have laid out a new subdivision, on which they have graded streets, constructed sidewalks*, set out large shade trees, etc., and already some of the purchasers are under contract to build, which, together with a new brick block which is to be erected soon, and' one already finished, gives a fresh impetus, and everything betokens a flattering future for the newly-christened suburb. As a fruit-bearing region, this section has no equal about the city. The soil for this purpose is peculiarly adaptable. Although it has many reasons to claim prom- inence as a business and manufacturing town, its fruit-growing tendencies are some- thing of no small moment. In and about the village, for it has grown to be suchy may be seen some of the finest orchards and vineyards in the State. Cherries, apples, pears, berries, grapes, and the like, abound in profusion ; while the dairy and vegetable business is carried on to a considerable degree. Its most attractive feature is to be found in the depot grounds, which consist of 20 acres, laid out and fenced off into romantic parks, ornamented with shade, ever- green trees, and shrubbery in great variety. The original proprietors of the place, after contributing largely towards the general improvements, stopped for a time to see what the result of their labors would bring forth. They felt confident that the beauty and natural advantages of the lo- cality would, in time, prove to them that their town would become not only popular but populous. The purchase of Mr. Chas. H. Atkins was the first to prove the cor- rectness of the prediction. Mr. Atkins is of the firm of Atkins & Burgess, Vulcan Iron Works, of this city. His was a purchase of 75 acres, some years ago, paying at the rate of $40 per acre. The same land is now worth $200. Again, recently, Messrs. Bigsby & Mitchell bought a number of acres of the original plat, and have since subdivided them. These purchases seemed to give renewed vigor to all con- cerned, and the whole village has been materially improved. Among the improve- ments most worthy of note are Messrs. Bray & Bros.' three-story brick store build- ing ; the Higgins' carriage manufactory, a large and conveniently arranged two-story brick structure ; and a two-story building for Mr. Hurson. The material is on the ground for the erection, next spring, of a large three-story brick block by the Messrs. Tage & Co. and Lutge & Co., which will be an ornament to the place. Mr. Bloom contemplates building a large addition to his hotel. Mr. J. M. Olmstead contem- plates building a very fine mansion at an early day. There are two large grain* elevators in the town, owned and conducted by Messrs. Tewksbury & Peter and Johnson & Guile. Both firms are doing a large and prosperous business. Mr. David Peter is the pioneer in that line, having erected the first elevator. At the extensive carriage and planing establishment of an old and respected citizen of the place, Mr. John Fleming, a large number of workmen are engaged the year round. Adjoining the village, Mr. W. H. Dunton and Mr. David Peter have each an. elegant farm, which are places of considerable interest. The soil is admirably adapted to fruit culture, which is carried on by them to considerable extent. The great abundance of evergreens naturally tend to give beauty to the surroundings, and the farms are considered two of the best in that section of the country. Mr. James Dunton owns a very fine farm of 200 acres, which is in a high state of cultivation. His building site is ornamented with- evergreens, shade trees and shrubbery. ARLINGTON HEIGHTS. 457 There are about 150 dwellings in trie place, some of which are homelike and handsome. Around many of the better residences are from one to five acres of land, all well improved. Prominent among them are those of Mr. Amaza Allen, Mr. Joseph Kennicott, Mr. Macnab, Mr. Sherra, Mrs. Kennicott, Mr. Burlingame, Mr. J. Peter, Mr. John Fleming, Mr. Newhall, Mr. Loomis and Mr. Thurbor. The residence of Mr. Chas. H. Atkins deserves special mention. It is Mr. Atkins' country home, and is known as " Spring Lawn," which is an appropriate Chas. H. Atkins' Residence. name, taking everything into consideration. Though the house itself is not an elab- orate affair, yet the surroundings are such as to make up one of the most desirable homes that could be imagined. The grounds enclosed about the house consist of 10 acres, and are beautifully ornamented with shrubbery and trees. In the enclos- ure stands a handsome pagoda, erected over an artesian well, which flows 120 gallons of pure water per minute. The well is 640 feet deep, and the water is free from all unwholesome and obnoxious tastes. The grounds are exceedingly artistic in all their appointments. Adjacent to his residence site is an orchard of 15 acres, con- taining every variety of fruit trees, and the choicest of fruit is grown in great abun- dance. He has also a deer paddock, in which five or six deer and a pair of buffalo roam in view of passing trains. Being a stock fancier, Mr. Atkins owns large numbers of thoroughbred horses, cattle, sheep, hogs, etc. ; and for the comfort of his animals 458 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. has built ample barn accommodation, pens and yards. Duck and fish ponds are also to be found there, which contribute in no small degree to the general beauty and attractiveness of Spring Lawn. The place contains three churches — Presbyterian, Methodist and Lutheran ; a fine brick school building — four departments for graded schools ; three cheese facto- ries ; steam flouring mill ; steam saw mill ; three wagon and carriage shops ; four dry goods stores ; two hardware stores : three millinery stores ; boot and shoe, drug, grocery, harness, furniture stores, etc. There are thi"ee hotels, all doing a good business. The three nurseries there furnish the property owners with every variety of trees and vegetable plants. Joseph Kennicott and John Clem are owners of the nurseries. Taking the above facts into consideration, we look upon Arlington Heights as being on the high road to success. It extends every inducement to pei-sons seeking suburban homes, supplying at .its very doors every article necessary to make home comfortable. PALATINE. A distance of a few miles from business forms no impediment to the settlement ■of a suburb by people doing business in Chicago, as is evidenced by over sixty com- fortable residences erected by this class of people alone, in Palatine. The place owing to priority of settlement, is more familiar to the reader than some of the others noted in this volume ; and the gathering of 1,500 people at that place has made it a flourishing village. It is a market for the agricultural products of the southwest vicinage of Chicago, and thirteen business houses are in operation. Two elevators are built, from which were shipped, last year, 400,000 bushels of small grain. The place lies on the high divide between the Aux Plaines and Fox rivers, and conse- quently all the land is eligible to settlement and cultivation. Its location is twenty- two miles from the city, on the Wisconsin Division of the Chicago & Northwestern railroad, and sixteen passenger trains call at its depot each day. The commutation rate of fare is $95 for an annual ticket. - An artesian well is being sunk, which will supply abundance of water for fire and other purposes. Three church edifices, and a handsome graded school-building, worth $11,000, rank among the most prominent improvements. In dwellings, those of Messrs. M. H. Lytle, Geo. C. Whipple, M. S. Johnson, James Wilson, Chas. Chery and R. S. Williamson are among the best. All the streets are lighted and excellently finished, provided with sidewalks, etc. Palatine was platted seventeen years ago, by Joel Wood, and since that time has been steadily growing, and values moving gradually upward, though the morbid excitement in the land market of nearer districts has caused no rapid or extraordi- nary jumps in prices. The lots retail at from $5 to $60 per foot, and tracts circumja- cent are selling at from $75 to $300 per acre. It is universally conceded to be the best town lying near the city, and on the line of the Wisconsin Division. INDEX. c A. PAGE .Academy of Sciences 150 Alaska Fur Trade 102 America, Total Railroads in 101 American Fur Company 27 " American," newspaper 40-49 Appropriations, (see Harbor and Canal) Area of City 28, 36, 41, 44, 51 Arlington Heights, Village of.. 455 Armstrong, Fort _. 28 Arrivals and Clearances for past ten years 292 Ashland Avenue 255-257 Astor, John J 27 Asylums and Hospitals 144 Auburn, Village of. '. 402 Austin, Village of 424 B. Baltimore & Ohio railroad ; 28 Banks and banking Bank Clearings 294 Banks in 1873 294 Currency in 1853 65-66 Currency in 1861. ._ ,.. 158 Of issue in Illinois abolished ... 65 Of issue in Illinois restored 65 Bates, Edward.. 50 "Big Wind" 23 Black Hawk War 33 Board of Trade 55 Chamber of Commerce. 159 Chamber of Commerce. 162 Chamber of Commerce organized.. 159 Correct abuses 152 Course after the Fire 91 Crisis of 1861.. .- 156 Delegation at Washington 155 Early particulars 53-63 End of spouting in 154 .Erection of new Building .-159-162 460 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. PAGE: Exigency of the Fire 152 First call for 55< Great Bank Project 154 In the Crisis of '57 154 In wartimes 156 Loyalty of 15? Officers of the Board, 1856 _ 63 Officers of the Board, 1872 153 Officers of, 1873--. 153 Organized for business 155 Provide Currency Relief 158 The Board "Means Business" 155 Bogus Lots .., 187 Boundary of Illinois 25-41 Bread, from East 43,44 Bridges ...32, 36, 39, 42, 55 Buildings 40, 44, 45. c. Caldwell, Billy 28 California Trade 115,116 Canal, Illinois & Michigan, Canal Boards.. 30,31 Canal deepened 78 Canal, Erie 28 Canal, Suez 23, 114 Congress on 26, 30, 118 Legislature on 30, 31 Loan for 47 President Madison on 26 Work begun on 43 Work ended on 47 Carriage, Railway, (See Railroads.) 1 Charitable Institutions 149 1 Checagou, Fort, French 21 Chicago as a Borrower 295 Chicago & Pacific R. R. Stations, Other 439 Chicago Grain Trade, from the Beginning, to Date 285 Chicago vs. St Louis 292,293 Chicago's Characteristics 163-176 A Contributor's Estimate 177 An Epoch of - 42 City Census, 1837 44 Early Taxes 50 Finances of 39,43 Future of Chicago 169 General Characteristics ... 163 Incorporated as City 42 Incorporated as Town 35 In 1831, Value of.... 31 In 1833-4, appearance of 35, 36 Intolerant of Rings 165 List of Citizens -.. 35 Meaning of the Name 20,21 Natural Site of 19, 20 Peculiarities 166-168 People not boastful 164 Property of (See Taxable Property.) INDEX. 461 PAGE Rigid and Sober Analysis of the Case 169-176 "Starve or Work " , 44 The Child of Railway System : 104 University of . . - 147 Cholera 32,55 Churches 144 #5 6'eq. City Pleasure Grounds . 337-340 Lincoln Park 337 Jefferson Park 340 Union Park 339 Clarendon Hills. Village of 421 •"Clarissa," First Vessel Built . 43 Climate of Chicago, (See Introduction.) Clyde, Village of. L 412 Colleges, (See Universities, etc.) Commerce of Chicago 119 Clearing House Business 125 Direct Importation for Merchandise.. 125 Growth of the Merchandise Jobbing Trade 121 History of Leading Houses 123 Produce Trade from 1857 to '72 120 Sales of 1872 and '73 .123,124 •Commercial, Mouth of Mississippi River 29 Convention, River and Harbor , 49,50 Cook County 31 Area of. 186 Subdivision 186 Topography 182,184 Cornell, Village of. 457 Cotton, Possibly for Chicago - 117 Cotton Trade 116 Crackers and Ale __' 153 Crises, of '37 '57 '61 and '71 44, 152, 154, 156, 157 Culmination of Railway System 111 Currency, (See Banks,— Board of Trade.) D. Danby, Village of 433 Date, A Most Significant 44 "Democrat," First Newspaper 36 Desplaines, Village of 453 Differential Analysis of Chicago, etc 67 Direct Importations 290 Disbursements of U.S. Supported Town 43 Disgusted Officials 39 "Dominion, Old" (See Virginia.) Dominion Plans for Navigation 117, 118 Downer's Grove, Village of 1 422 Drama, First '. ,. 49 Drink, 40 Places for 43 Ducks Shot from Tremont Hotel 36 E. East, in Relation to Chicago 170,171 "Egypt" 112 Elevators, First 54 Elevators, Steam 61 462 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. PAGE: Elmhurst, Village of . 432?' Engines, First Fire 40,41 Englewood, "Village of . 398 Enterprise, Character of Chicago's 168-171 Enterprise in President Jackson's Time 37 Evanston, Village of 378 Eventful Year.. „ 29 Exposition Building 238 Extortion Restrained _. 31 F. Ferry, First 28 Finances of Chicago 39,43 Fire, Oct 9, 10, 1871 79 Action of the State... 91 Business of the Year Following 93 Business Re-organized 88 Elan of Chicago Merchants 89 Fatalities and Losses 82-85 No Water 81 Rebuilding 95 Relief for the Sufferers... 87 Remarkable Features of. 80 Superfluous Condolements 88 Value of New Buildings 97 Fontainbleau, Treaty of... 22 Forecast, (See Railroads.) Fort Dearborn 24 Established 24 Rebuilt 26 The Acropolis 39 Franquelin's Maps, 1864 - 20 French Jesuits 21,22 Fur Trade. ...26-28 G. Galena Railroad (see Railroads) Galewood, Village of 436 " Garden City" 48 Gas, First 55 General Scott 33- Glencoe, Village of 396- Grain , 50,59,60,61 Grant (see Land Grants) Graveyard Tests. 40' Grayland, Village of 445 Greeley, Horace 50 Green Bay, Supplies from 27,28 Greenville, Ohio, Treaty of 25 Grog-shops of Old 43 H. Harbor — > - 29, 33, 35, 45, 47 Hawthorne, Village of 415 Heald, Capt 25 Healthfuluess of Chicago's Location 183 INDEX. 463 PAGE Hennepin, Father. 22 Hercules, the Modern, Twelve Labors of.. ... 74 Highland Park. Village of 393 High wood. Village of 395 Hinsdale, Village of... _ 418 Historical Society 150 House, First, Built in 1674 22 Household Habits of Chicago People. : 187 Humboldt, Village of. 434 Hunt, Bear and Wolf 35 Hyde Park, Village of 352 Hypothetical Cities 37 c 1. Illinois Boundary of 25 Central Railroad * .56, 104 Low Credit of 47 State 27 Territory 25 "Illinois County, Virginia " „ 23 Immigration 32, 36, 39, 43 Incorporation (see Chicago) . _. Indians, Depredations of 25 Influence of Railroads 112 Institutions of Chicago... 144 Inter-Continental Trade 114, 115 Iron Horse at Chicago 53 Irving Park, Village of 442 J- Jackson's Creek Thunderbolts 20 Jail, First 35 Jealousy Between Sections of Town _ .33-36 Jefferson, Joe 1 49 Jefferson, President 24 Jefferson, Village of. 447 Joliet 21, 22 K. Kelvyn Grove, Village of 435 Kenwood, Village of 355 Kinzie, John, Pioneer. 24, 26, 27 L. Lac des Illinois. . 21 LaGrange, Village of 417 LakeBisin, in 1840 46 Lake Forest, Village of.. 396 Lake Market, Spontaniety of 29, 30, 103 Lake Tunnel 76 Lake View, Village of 343 Landlord, Original 24 Land, Rights of Way, and Ninety Feet... 30 464 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. PAGE Land, to Canal 26, 30, 118 Land, to Illinois Central Railroad _. 56 Land Office __ 36, 37 LaSalle .. 22 Legislature of Illinois, on Railroads 37 Le Mai 24 Le Sieur, Sanson _. 22 Length of All Rail in America '. 101 Lewis & Clark's Expedition 24 Library, Public.. 150 Lists, Statistical .35, 68, 71, 72, 73 Live Stock Receipts and Shipments, for Sixteen Years 284 Lombard, Village of 432 Lots, Bogus 187 Lots in Cook County, Official Statement — 186 Lots in 1834 38 Lots in 1847. 51 Lots, Number Wanted Before 1880 ----- 188 Louisiana Acquired 24 Loyalty of Chicago Board of Trade. 157 M. Madison, President 26 Mails, Early 32 Manufactures of Chicago - - 128 Early -64,65 South Branch District 138 South Chicago District 141 Splendid Showing for 1872 130 Statistics for 1870 - - 130 Wonderful Development in Thirteen Years 130 Map, Earliest of Chicago 28 Maplewood, Village of 428 Marquette, Father 21, 22 Massachusetts, Railroads of, per Square Miles Ill Massacre of 1812.. .. ,. 26 Mayors of Chicago Since 1837 - - 279 Maywood, Village of .. 439 Medical Colleges - 149 Melrose, Village of... - 430 Merchandizing 63, 64 After the Fire - 89 "Miltimore's Folly" 48,49 Mont Clare, Village of 436 Montrose, Village of _ 446 Mount Forest, Village of - ... 411 N. National Banks of Chicago 294 Natives of Chicago, First White, Claim 26 Newspapers of Chicago . 261 "Evening Journal" 273 "Evening Mail" 275,276 "Evening Post" ■ 273-275 "Inter-Ocean" .268-271 " Staats Zeitung " 271-273 INDEX. 465 PA&3 The First Daily.. _ 49 The First One 86 The Second One 40 " Times " 265-268 "Tribune". 261-265 New York, Norfolk, Chicago and Cairo . 23 Nilee, Michigan, Mails from _ _ .- 32 North Evanston, Village of 383 Northwestern Car Shops 422 Northwestern University 147 Northwest Territory 22 Norwood Park, Village of 448 c o. Oakland, Village of __ 354 Oak Park, Village of 426 Oakwood, Village of _. 369 Occupation, French. 22 Ogden, Wm. B., Mayor 42 "Old Dominion, " Chicago in 22 Opera Houses. 144 Ordinances of 1787.- 23 Ordinances (see Ten Commandments) P. Pacific Trade.. 57 Pacific, Village of 436 Packing Trade .... 47 Palatine, Village of T 458 Palmer House ... 232 Park Ridge, Village of 451 Parkside, Village of 357 Parks of Chicago 313-340 South Parks „■ 314-324 Acquiring the Lands . 316 Appraisal of Lands 315 Details of the Plan of Ornamentation 320 Failure and Second Attempt 314 First Board of Commissioners 315 Great Bargains in Park Lands 319 Litigation 315 Origin 313 Raising the Means 316 West Parks — . 325-336 Acquiring the Lands... 326 Description of the Grounds ...327-332 First Organization - - 328 Good Bargains in Circumjacent Lands 332-336 Plank Roads 50 Policy of Land Grants 57 Pope, Nathaniel 25 Population 39,44, 50, 54, 59 At Twenty-one Different Dates 297 Estimated for 1884, January 1st 178 Portage, Ancient 19 Post-Office .--- -.34,35 Post-Office, New, Cost, etc, 97 30 466 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. TAQK Pottawattomiea .. 35. Powell Estate (See Maplewood) . Principal Thoroughfares of Chicago . 981 Ashland Avenue - 255 Clark Street i 345 Dearborn Street.. 343 East of Indiana Avenue 243 Fifth Avenue - - 348 Franklin Street 348 Indiana Avenue . - 341 Lake Street 350 LaSalle Street - 246 Madison Street 255 Market Street 1 248 Michigan Avenue 237 Randolph Street 250 South Water Street 34» State Street... 331 Wabash Avenue _. 235 Washington Street .351-255 Private Schools 144 Produce Trade, Progress of 44, 45, 47, 50 Projected Lines of Transportation 108, 109 Public Libra ries 144 Public Schools 144 R. Railroads in Detail — Baltimore & Ohio Railroad 38 Chicago & Northwestern 103 Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 104 Chicago, Danville <& Vincennes. 107 Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul 103 First Locomotive at Chicago 54 Forecast of Chicago's System 51, 53 Galena Road 44,53,54 Illinois Central .....56,104 Legislation on 37 Particulars of Carriage to and from Chicago 113 Rise of Competing Eastern Roads 53 Rock Island & Alton 104 The Epoch of Railroads 57 Railroads, Total Length in North America 101 Chicago and South Carolina 103 Commodities Carried by Rail — Grand Totals in Bulk and Value 101 Influence on Production 113 Per Square Mile in Massachusetts Ill System at Large as to Chicago.. 101, 107, 108 Tributary to Chicago, Miles 105-108 Via North and Northwest 103 Via South and Southwest 102,103, 113 Railways, City. 144 Ravenswood, Village of 370 Real Estate Market of Chicago 193 Abstract Business of Chicago 207-213 Afterthe Crash 198 After the War 203 Aggregate Sales of Five Years. •. 205 AProfitable Boulevard Trade 218 INDEX. 467 PAGB Burnt Records Bill 210 Consequences of the Great Fire 204 Dr. Egan's Pills 201 During the War. 203 Episodes of. Trade 214 First Car-shop Speculation 217 First Transaction 193 Four Thousand Dollars for $2,500,000 worth of property 215 Increase of Suburban Business 204 Inflation Period of 1835-7 195 Ingratitude to Uncle Sam _ 199 In 1834 r _ 38 John S. Wright's Experience. . . '- 214 Land Titles of Chicago 206 Notable Canal Sales 194 Original Division of the Town 207 Other Profitable Operations . _ ._ 219-223 Panic of '57 201 Panics and Real Estate. 202 Prices Twenty Years Ago... 199 Real Estate Guild, Twenty Years Ago 200 Real Estate in Tight Times 216 Recovery from the Collapse 198 River Lots in 1835. 196 Sales Reported by Dealers 306-310 State Relief to Unwise Buyers 195 Table of Sales and Prices 298-306 Values of Business Land 224 As Indicated by Rentals 225 In Chicago 225 In London 224 In New York . 224 Selling Prices Much Less 226, 227 Receipts and Shipments of Leading Commodities for First Nine Months of 1872 and 1873, 281 Receipts and Shipments of Leading Commodities for First Nine Months of 1847 to 1872.282, 283 Relief and Aid Society. '.'. 149 Religion ........33,34, 144 Revulsions, Commercial 65, 66 Riverside, Village of _ 415 Ridgeland, Village of 425 Ridgelawn, Village of 450 River Park, Village of 437 River Forest, Village of 427 Rosehill Cemetery 371 Rogers' Park, Village of 374 Routes of Transit and Their Carrying Business 288, 289 s. Sable, Jean Baptiste Point, Au 24 Scenes in 1834-5 - -- 40 Schools of Chicago. 146, 147,148,149 Lands Squandered. 34 Early 25,33,34,48 Scott, General Winfield. - 32, 33 Site, Natural, of Chicago 19, 20 "Skunk" not What " Chicago " Means 20, 21 Sluices Across Clark Street 42 Societies 144 'k 468 CHICAGO AND ITS SUBURBS. PACFB South Chicago, Village of 35$) South Englewood 401 South Evaneton 375 South Lawn, Village of 369 South Shore 359 South Park 356 Speculation 29, 57, 38 Stage Line, First 39,35,86 States Tributary to Chicago, their Population 294 Statistics : 59, 60 Steamboat, "Sheldon Thompson" 38 Suburban Tendency 188 Suburbs of Chicagoj 341 Suez Canal 8,114 Survey, Site for Chicago , 28 Surveyor, County, Statementof 186 Swindlers in Lots. - 187 1 o Tables, Statistical 67, 69, 70, 71 Tamaroas, Aborigines 21 Taverns 82 Taxes, Earliest 36 Teas 115 "Ten Commandments'' 86 Theological Schools 147 Thunder God 8,20 Tonnage of the Port, for 1872 291 Topography of Chicago and its Environs. 182 Town Incorporated - 35 " Tracy," Schooner. 24 Trade, Revival of 46, 47,54 Trade (see Board of Trade, Grain, Produce, etc.) - Trans-Continental, the Great Trade, Idea Older than the American Revolution 28 Tunnel, Lake - -- 76 u. United States, Cession of Northwest Territory to, by Virginia 22 V. Valuation of Real Estate from 1838 to 1873 - - 280 Vessels - - 32,46 Virginia, Chicago Once in 22 Great Enterprises of Old - 23 w. Washington Heights - 405 Water Works 43,48,55 Wharf Rights Squandered - 41 Wheat, First Shipments East - 46 Wilmette 385 Winnetka - -- 390 Winter of 1831-2, in Port.-.. - - 32 Wisconsin, Chicago in - - 26 Wolf Point - -- 33 Woodlawn 356 1 I I