JUL 301891" ON THE BEACH AT GARFIELD. 1891. ^ f j)E;ei^ipiio/M OK THE \.. Western Resorts F=OR . .. H&flLTH- Pleasure REACHED VIA ClnioQ ^ eight and Passenger Dep'ts. New York Ciiy—2?,7 Broadway.— R. Tenbroeck, General Eastern Agent. J. F. Wiley, Passenger Agent. J. D. Tenbroeck, Traveling Passenger Agent. S. A. Hutchison, Traveling Passenger Agent. Thos. S. Spear, Traveling Passenger Agent. Ogden, Utah—\Jmon Depot.— C. A. Henry, Ticket Agent. Olympia, fF«.jA.— Second Street Wharf.— J. C. Percival, Ticket Agent. 0?naha, Neb.—\^oi Farnam Street.— Harry P. Deuel, City Passenger and Ticket Agt. J. K. Chambers, Depot Ticket Agent, Union Depot, Tenth and Marcy Streets. M. J. Greevy, Traveling Passenger Agent, Ninth and Farnam Streets. Pittsburgh, Pa.—dpo Wood Street.— Wm, Dolan, Traveling Passenger Agent. L. T. Fowler, Traveling Freight Agent. Portland, Or^.— Corner Third and Oak Streets.— W. H. HuRLBURT, Assistant General Passenger Agent. Geo. H. Hill, Travehng Passenger Agent. Geo. S. Taylor, City Ticket Agent, corner First and Oak Streets. A L. Maxwell, Ticket Agent, Grand Central Station. Port Townsend, Wash.— Vnion Wharf.— Jas. W . McCabe, Ticket Agent. Pueblo, Colo.—2T,2, North Union Ave.— E. R. HARDING, General Agent. St. Joseph, Mc".— Chamber of Commerce.— S. M. Adsit, General Agent. St. Louis, Mo.— 21^ North Fourth Street.— J. F. Aglar, General Agent Freight and Passenger Departments. S. F. Hilton, City Freight and Passenger Agent. C. C. Knight, Freight Contracting Agent. E. R. Tuttle, Traveling Passenger Agent. N. Haight, Traveling Passenger Agent. Salt Lake City, Utah— 201 Main Street.— D. E. Burley, General Agent. C. E. Ingalls, Traveling Passenger Agent. F. F. ECCLES, City Ticket Agent. San Francisco, Cal.—i Montgomery Street.— D. W. Hitchcock, General Agent. V. A. Schilling, Traveling Passenger Agent. H. W. Burke, Traveling Passenger Agent. W. R. Vice, Pacific Coast Passenger Agent. J. F. Fugazi, Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Avenue. Seattle, Wash.— 70$ Second Street.— A. C. Martin, City Ticket Agent. C. E. Baldwin, Ticket Agent Dock. Sioux City, Lowa—^x^ Fourth Street.— D. M. Collins, General Agent. Geo. E. Abbott, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. H. M. Birdsall, City Ticket Agent. Spokane, Wash.— Cor. Riverside and Washington.— Perry Griffin, Passenger and Ticket Agent. Tacoma, Wash.— 74,6 Pacific Ave.— E. E. Ellis, Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Dep'ts. Victoria, B. C— 100 Government Street.— M. J. Bissell, Ticket Agent. C. S. MELLEN, E. L. LOMAX, General Traffic Manager, Gen'l Passenger and Ticket Agent, Omaha, Neb. FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 11 PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES. Subject to Chanj^c. Pullman's Palace Car Company now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting lines. PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN New York and Chicago New York and St. Louis Boston and Chicago Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City Chicago and Denver St. Louis and Kansas City St. Louis and Denver St. Louis and Omaha Kansas City and Cheyenne Council liUiffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Denver Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne Council Bkiffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Salt Lake City Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Ogden. Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Butte Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Portland Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas CityandFranciscoor Los Angeles Cheyenne and Portland Denver and Portland Denver and Los Angeles Denver and San Francisco Denver and Fort Worth Denver and New Orleans Pocatello and Butte Double Berths. f 5.00 6. CIO 5.50 2.50 6.00 2.00 5.50 2.50 4.50 3-50 4.00 8.00 8.(jii.u, '■^■^■i i „ , o Denve Cheyenne, Ogden, Salt Lake City, Butte, Helena Spokane, San T-Zd CO Portland Taconm and Seattle. The equipment of these trams ,s !, sur nlssed Tnd aU that can be desired. A good road-bed, standard gauge ck 'stee Uan , iron bridges, stone culverts, Puliman palace sleepers, Pullman d n t; a , Pul man tourist sleepers, free colonist sleeping cars, free rechnmg chair cars and modern day coaches combined, insure safety, speed and comfort. The important points where connections are made are as follows : JULESBURO, Colorado, five miles from the Colorado-Nebraska State line, where the Council Bluffs & Denver line branches off to Denver. Denver, Colorado, where the Colorado branches of the Union Pacific connect fo Colorado Springs, Pueblo, Trinidad, LeadviUe, Idaho Springs and o her important cities, resorts, and places in Colorado, and -'-- "- Gu, division from Ft. Worth, and Kansas division from Kansas City, joins the Denver Pacific main line from Denver to Cheyenne. CHEVENNE, Wyoming, where the Denver Pacific main '- °- ^ "« ,0 Chevenne, join the Nebraska main line and the Cheyenne and Northern branch 'for Douglas and the Black Hills c.nnec.s with the main line. (■il) 22 WESTERN RESORTS Granger, Wyoming, where the Union Pacific branches off for Portland, Oregon. The trains, however, connect at Green River, thirty miles east of Granger, and are made up at that point. PocATELLO, Idaho, where the Utah & Northern branch of the Union Pacific connects with the main line for Butte, Garrison, and Helena. From Pocatello the Utah & Northern branch also diverges south to Ogden, Salt Lake City, and Garfield Beach. Beaver Canon, Idaho, on the Utah «^ Northern branch, where connection is made with the Union Pacific stages for the Yellowstone National Park. Shoshone Station, Idaho, on the Union Pacific Ry., where connection is made, via stage, for the Great Shoshone Falls, and also where a branch of the Union Pacific Ry. makes connection for Hailey and Ketchum. Nampa, Idaho, where the Idaho Central branch connects with the main line for Boise City. Ogden, Utah, where the Utah Central branch of the Union Pacific connects with the main line for Salt Lake City, Garfield Beach, Provo, Spanish Forks, and Frisco, and also where the Southern Pacific Railroad connects for Sacra- mento, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. Salt Lake City, Utah, where the Utah & Nevada branch of the Union Pacific connects for Garfield Beach, on the shores of the Great Salt Lake. Pendleton, Oregon, where a branch runs north to Walla Walla and Spo- kane Falls. Portland, Oregon, where connection is made with LTnion Pacific steamers for San Francisco and Puget Sound points. OUTLINE OF THE TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT TO PORTLAND. The Union Pacific is the great National highway and forms a part of the first transcontinental line of railroad from ocean to ocean. It was conceived, and its construction authorized, as a war measure, the needs of the Gov- ernment during the war of the rebellion having clearly shown the necessity for it. Years have demonstrated that this grand road was most wisely and skillfully planned. There is no other line to-day possessing its peculiar advantages, and their can never be a railway constructed across the continent like it, for the simple reason that the Union Pacific occupies the very best belt of country obtainable. There is immunity, on the o ie hand, from the blazing suns and stifling alkali dust of the southern deserts; and on the other, the lightest possi- KOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 23 ble snow-fall to be encountered on the mountain summits. It is the natural highway either for summer or winter, spring or autumn, and it must forever remain so. No amount of specious reasoning can shake the solid fact, that the Union Pacific line is the one railway across the continent unassailable by sum- mer heat or winter storms. The passenger trains of this great railway are truly cosmopolitan in the curi- ous make-up of their occupants. As one walks through the handsome sleepers or day-coaches on any of the trains, one sees a dozen different national types and hears as many different dialects. There is a composite world on wheels, and its inhabitants, for the time being, hail from all quarters of the globe. Leaving Council Bluffs via the Nebraska main line, and Kansas City via the Kansas main line, the two lines join at Cheyenne. The Kansas main line runs to Denver ; and the trip from Denver to Cheyenne, along the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, affords the tourist a kaleidoscopic panorama of hills, fields, rivers, running brooks, and lofty mountains. Leaving Cheyenne the summit of the Rockies is passed at Sherman, elevation 8,247 feet, the highest point on the transcontinental ride between the Missouri River and the Pacific coast. Leaving Sherman, Ames' Monument and Hippopotamus Rock can be seen from the windows of the car. Next, Dale Creek bridge, a wonderful structure over Dale Creek, is passed. Then comes Rawlins, Rock Springs, and GREEN RIVER, where the trains for Portland, Oregon, are made up, although they do not make their departure from the main line until Granger is reached, thirty miles west of Green River, and the trip across the continent is continued to the great Northwest. The road goes along over moderate curves and grades, through pretty little valleys along the Bear River, until the great Territory of Idaho is entered at Border Station. Then on through Soda Springs and Pocatello — the junction with the Utah & Northern branch for Butte, Garrison, and Helena. Ne.xt, Shoshone Station is reached, where the junction is made for the Great Shoshone Falls, via stage, and also for Hailej and Ketchum^ via rail ; thence from Shoshone Station the road stretches away through Nampa, where the junction is made with the Idaho Central branch for Boise City, nineteen miles distant ; and on the train goes from Nampa, through Cald- well and Weiser to Huntington, within Oregon ; thence from Huntington through Baker City, Union, La Grande, Pendleton, and Umatilla Junction to "The Dalles," which takes its name from the dalles of the Columbia.- From this point on to East Portland the trip is one replete with scenic wonders. Arriving in Portland, which is the metropolis of the Northwest Pacific coast, and a large, handsome, cosmopolitan city, the trip "Across the Continent " to Portland, Oregon, is complete — one of the grandest within the reach of the traveler. From Portland, magnificent ocean steamers depart for the far distant Orient. Fine steamers also ply over the broad bosom of the Pacific Ocean from (24) KOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 25 Portland to Alaska, and that wonderful Territory of the North. The Union Pacific's steamers, which compare favorably with the Atlantic steamships, make regular trips twice a week from Portland to San Francisco. The Pacific Coast Steamship Company also run from Portland to Victoria, B. C, connecting with the Union Pacific Ry.'s line of steamers from Victoria, via Port Townsend and Seattle, to Tacoma. During the excursion season of 1890 many thousand tourists visited Alaska. To say they were pleased conveys but a faint impression of their enthusiasm. They were delighted — charmed. Ask any of them, it matters not whom, they all make the same report and tell the same story of the matchless grandeur of the trip, of the midnight sun, of the placid waters, of the aurora borealis, of the majestic mountains, of the inland seas, of the mighty glaciers, of the thunder- ing iceberg plunging into the sea and floating off in its glory of inimitable splendor, of the wealth of fish, timber and minerals, of the biggest quartz mill ever constructed, of the queer customs of the natives, of novelty and startling incidents that may well make the trip the object of a lifetime. There is noth- ing like it. WASHINGTON IN MARCH. Mr. E. V. Smalley, the well known journalist, in speaking of this delightful region, says: "Early in March I left the storms and snows of the Eastern States, and went to the shores of Puget Sound. I speiit a week in Seattle and two days in Tacoma. The weather was like an English April. It could not be closely compared with that of any locality on the Atlantic Slope, but so far as temperature was concerned it was as warm as early May in St. Paul. The mercury ranged from forty at night to sixty-five at noon. Every day except one it rained more or less in occasional warm, light showers. Now and then the sun peeped out, but never for long. The quality of the air was soft and agreeable. I did not wear an overcoat at any time except when driving. Very few people carried umbrellas, and those few appeared to be new-comers from the East. The older residents did not mind the misty rain when moving about the streets. "In the woods many kinds of vegetation had not bf en killed by the winter's frosts, and still showed the green leaves of last year. The door-yards in the towns were gay with flowers. Nelson Bennett, the railroad and tunnel builder, told me that when news came of the terrible blizzard in New York and other eastern cities, he and Mrs. Bennett, made up a number of little nosegays, and enclosing them in hollowed-out potatoes, mailed them to friends in those cities. In each box was a card inscribed: 'Picked in the open air in Tacoma on the day following the great blizzard in the East.' " (26) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 27 "On the nineteenth of March I left the Sound country, with its warm, moist, caressing airs and its cloudy skies, and crossing the Cascade Mountains, where the snow lay deep in the forests, found myself in a wholly different climate. By the time the train had descended into the Yakima Valley the clouds were all gone and the whole landscape was bathed in brilliant sunshine. There was a little sharp, sub-acid flavor in the air which told of early spring, but this together with the glorious sunshine, gave to the weather an exhilarating effect. At Spokane Falls during the last ten days of March the weather was as agree- able as early May would be in Minnesota if there were no rain. The sky was of a brilliant summer blue, with light, white clouds, and all the spring flowers were in bloom. In fact, the buttercups had been out, the people told me, since early in February. This is not our Eastern buttercup, of the meadows and brook-sides, but a flower with a short stem that grows on dry hill slopes and among the rocks. Indoors it was cool enough in the forenoon for a little fire to be agreeable, but outdoors, as soon as the sun was fairly up, the air was delightfully warm. The nights were cool, but not cold enough to freeze water. "Spokane Falls has an elevation of about 2,000 feet above the sea-level and is as far north as Fargo and Duluth; yet spring comes as early as in Northern Georgia or Alabama. Is it to be wondered at that so many people are going to Washington Territory because they want to live were the climate is mild and agreeable?" THE TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT TO SAN FRANCISCO. From GREEN RIVER, the trip across the continent to San Francisco is continued. Three miles west of Green River is Fish Cut. (ireen River buttes are objects of interest, and are within sight for miles. After passing Granger, Evanston is soon reached. At Wahsatch Station the summit of the Wahsatch range of mountains is reached. The elevation is 6,824 feet, and at this point the road enters Echo Canon. Echo Creek, which runs through the canon, is crossed thirty-one times in twenty-six miles. Three and a half miles west of Wahsatch, the train runs into a tunnel 900 feet long. One mile east of Castle Rock is a queer formation of rock resembling the ruins of and old castle. "Hanging Rock" is what its name indicates. Two and a half miles west of Emory, on top of the bluff, is a rock called "Jack-in-the-pulpit," and further on can be seen the heights of Echo Canon, on top of which are the old Mormon fortifications. Then comes "Steamboat Rocks." Just before reaching Echo are seen the "Amphitheatre," "Pulpit Rocks," and " Bromley's Cathedral." At Echo Station, Weber Canon is entered. One and a half miles west of Echo can be seen the "Witch Rocks." Five miles further on is the 1,000-mile tree, and a mile further on is the "Devil's Slide." Echo and Weber caiions compare favorably with the celebrated Colorado canons. Three and a half miles west of Corydon, the canon broadens out, and to the left are noticed the first of the (28) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 39 Mormon settlements. About one-half mile away, between Peterson and Uintah Station, "Devil's Gate'' is to be seen, and shortly after the country widens into the Great Salt Lake Valley, when Ogden is reached. The first view of the val- ley after the surfeit of mountain scenery, is one of striking contrast, quiet and pleasant to the eye. Between Cheyenne and Ogden, about ten miles of snow sheds altogether are passed at different points on the line. These sheds are located between Granite Canon and Buford, Buford and Sherman, Sherman and Dale Creek, Dale Creek and Harney, Wilcox and Aurora, Carbon and Simpson, Simpson and Percy, and Piedmont and Aspen, all in Wyoming. These sheds are quite a feature of the ride across the continent, the Southern Pacific road having about thirty miles altogether on its line between Ogden and Sacra- mento. Ogden is 1,034 miles from Council Bluffs, and 833 miles from San Francisco; the trip to Salt Lake City and Garfield Beach is made from this point. From Ogden, the trip is made over the Central Pacific Railroad, over great plains and through immense snow sheds, great mountain ranges, beautiful val- leys, and jagged foothills. Leaving Ogden, the train passes Promontory, which was intended to be the point of junction of the two roads forming the transcontinental route, namely, the Union and Central Pacific railroads. Later on, Ogden was decided upon as a compromise. The crowning scenes of the trip across Utah, Nevada, and California are not reached until Reno is passed. Cape Horn, Emigrant Gap, the Sierra Nevadas, Donner Lake, and other objects of more than ordinary interest will be found. Nevada, of course, is celebrated for her famous mines. The great mines of Virginia City and the Sutro Tunnel attract numerous visitors. The marvelous Carson and Humboldt sinks, in which the waters of all the rivers in the State of Nevada, save one, are swallowed, the Mud Lakes, the Borax marshes, and countless numbers of thermal springs, have been the wonder of the scientist and the delight of the tourist. One hundred and fifty-five miles from Reno is Sacramento, a beautiful city, and the capital of California. It is delightfully located upon the east bank of the Sacramento River, in the midst of the most productive grain fields, vineyards and orchards in the world. The climate is delightful, and the surrounding country entrancing. From Sacramento, the Southern Pacific branches off via Lathrop to Los Angeles, from which point the prominent cities and noted resorts of Southern California are readily reached. From Sacramento, the Davis cut-off, now the main line of the Southern Pacific road, takes the tourist through to Oakland, where a transfer is made across an arm of the bay to San Francisco, and here this part of the trip "Across the Continent" terminates at San Francisco, where old Sol, darkly red from his day's exertion, sinks to rest in the broad bosom of the Pacific Ocean. (30) COLORADO POINTS. ()\ ORADO is a Spanish word, signifying "red" or "color- ed " It formed a part of the Louisiana purchase in 1803, and on its organization as a Territory in February, 1861, It was made up of parts of Kansas, Nebraska, Utah, and New Mexico. Vasquez de Coronado was probably the first white explorer to reach this section in 1540; in later years Captain Pike headed a party in 1806, Colonel Long in 1820, and Fremont in 1842-4. Colorado has an area of 104,000 square miles, and is 380 miles in length and 280 miles wide; ranks first in silver and fourth in gold, and in mineral productions is accounted the richest of the States. It was admitted to the Union August i, 1876, and is known as the "Centennial State." DENVER. Denver is the social and commercial centre, not alone of Colorado, but also of the outlying Territories, and is called the " Queen City of the Plains." Its elevation is 5,170 feet above the sea-level. It is the gate to the mineral and scenic phenomena that have made the Rocky Mountains famous. In addition to its other advantages, it has a peerless climate, more conducive to outdoor enjoyment than any other known locality. It is situated on the plains at the foot, and almost within, the shadow of the " Mighty Hills," which protect it alike from the extremes of summer and winter weather. The streets are long and level, and on either side are rows of shade trees — nourished by streams of running water — casting a shade alike upon the mansion and the cottage. There is not a paved street in the city, nor one in which the natural roadway has been improved, and there is no other city whose thoroughfares are as smooth and solid. Its hotels are excellent ; in fact, they have all the improve- (31) [32' FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 33 merits and modern conveniences i)ossessed by the large hotels in the East, and the best ones would be first-class even in Chicago, St. Louis, New York or Boston. From Denver there is an unbroken view of the Rocky Mountains for nearly three hundred miles, reaching from beyond Long's Peak on the north to the historical summit of Pike's Peak on the south. This lovely mountain view is an everyday affair to the citizens of Denver, but nowhere in the world can its beauty and grandeur be surpassed. The Union Pacific runs two solid trains each way daily between Council Bluffs and Denver, and two solid trains each way daily between Kansas City and Denver. IDAHO SPRINGS. Idaho Springs, 7,543 feet above the sea-level, is a beautiful place located in Clear Creek Caiion. It is reached from Denver, via Golden, on the Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific. In so far as nature equips resorts, Idaho Springs is the finest that the Rocky Mountains afford. It is thirty-seven miles from Denver, situated in a cup, as it were, formed by the receding, half-encircling sides of the caiion. The heights on either side are not rocky and rugged, but verdant and inviting. Sometimes deer are seen wandering through them, almost within sight of the hotels. The place has a population of over 2,000 people, and some of the cottages cling to the sides of the canon in a very unique and perplexing man- ner. The roads are level and smooth, and lead to the most delightful retreats. The hotels are good, and society the best. Idaho Springs is so near Denver that many families from the latter city summer here, stopping either at its excellent hotels or at the adjoining cottages. The springs themselves are a great attraction, resting the wearied and heal- ing the sick. Hot and steaming they bubble and hiss from the ground, or icy cool they rise to the surface, and steal away in glassy streams. Besides the numerous private baths, there is also a mammoth swimming bath, in which a good swim may be enjoyed, as a current from the earth's bosom is continually • flowing. The natural cavern, hot as a Turkish bath-room, is more effective than that penetrating bath. It boils impurities from the blood and aches from the bones. There seems to be life in it. The pool that the angel troubled in olden times never worked greater curative wonders. People drink the cool water with the same zest that they bathe in the warm, and with equally good results. It has everything that the delicate require, such as pure air, constant sunshine, and invigorating waters. An experienced and traveled physician has started a sanitariimi at Idaho Springs, selecting it because it has more days of sunshine in a year than any place within his knowledge. 34 WESTERN RESORTS. The following is an analysis of its hot waters : Carbonate of soda 52 Carbonate of lime 16 Carbonate of magnesia 4 Carbonate of iron 7 Sulphate of soda 50 Sulphate of magnesia 32 Chloride of sodium 7 Silicate of soda 6 Total 177.69 CLEAR CREEK CANON. Clear Creek Cafion is one of the wildest gorges in Colorado. Through the solid rock of this gorge has been blasted the road-bed of the Union Pacific. It is the most accessible gorge of any in the State. In the days of stages and freight-wagons, it was used as a thoroughfare. The canon is only about one hour's ride from Denver, and it is reached from that city, via Golden, by the Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific. This branch until it reaches the foothills, runs through fields as green and past farmhouses as pleasant as any of which the older States can boast. Leaving Denver LInion Depot the road winds along past Argo and Arvada to Golden, a pretty and thrifty place just fairly in the mountains. Its site is the bed of an ancient lake, which has left its smooth-washed boulders and water- marks, the latter high in the air along the buttes. The road enters the canon a few miles west of Ciolden, and continues on up to Forks Creek, where the passenger trains divide ; one section hurries onward up to Central City, along a branch of Clear Creek Canon, while the other continues along the caiion proper to Idaho Springs, Georgetown, and over the celebrated " Loop " to Silver Plume and Graymont at the foot of Gray's Peak. The caiion is a marvelous cliff, worn through the solid rock by Clear Creek, dashing and roaring near the track, which crosses it at short intervals. Its sides, timeworn in a thousand grotesque forms, rise from 500 to 1,500 feet, making the sky look like a narrow strip. In places there are interesting gullies, through which rivulets come silvering down, and the sunlight strikes across the sombre caiion. Trees grow thick in places, and crown a portion of the heights. At Beaver Brook there is a pavilion for dancing and other accommodations for picknickers. From Forks Creek the road branches off to Black Hawk and Central City, two towns really merging into one. They are but like over a mile apart in actual distance, yet to reach Central City from Black Hawk the train passes over four miles of marvelously constructed track called the " Switch Back," passing. >\ N -^Q A .^ y K ^y ■r-%^ •>*? \' In ^\ "^ " 1 ttl I'b'JLY AH ?€^- -VVU: il2S- ^1 °'**.^ 9 < ^1 > ...^..b. »s"i7f FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 37 as it rises, the dumps of famous mines, and above crushing and grinding mills. From Central City there is a good stage line to Idaho Springs, so that these springs are also accessible from Central City, and the journey affords a view seldom surpassed. From Forks Creek the road winds along the main canon, through Idaho Springs to Georgetown. This town is built on silver-bearing soil, and is sur- rounded on three sides by the mountains. It is strange to see this town of 4,000 people, an animated gem in the setting of the Rockies, with long, roomy, stoneless streets and handsome residences. It has an altitude of 8,476 feet — considered an ideal height by many. Georgetown seems at first to be the end of Clear Creek Canon, but there is an opening beyond, and through it the road has forced its way. Green Lake is an emerald gem, sparkling in the sunlight, two miles away from Georgetown, and 2,000 feet higher. The lake is clear as crystal, but the basin that holds it is green, the sand m it is green, and the moss festoons it like a green veil. In places its depth is unknown, and its feeding springs have never been found. In its depths the gaunt limbs of skeleton trees, dead but erect, beckon from below the ripples on its surface, while trout glide through the branches where once the songster of the forest plumed its wings. At one end of the lake is the Battle Ground of the Gods, where, according to Indian legends, great boulders lie where the wrath of warring deities hurled them. Some of the largest of these have formed the Cave of the Winds, through which the breezes dolefully sigh. After leaving Georgetown, the chief point of interest is " The Loop," and here it is that the real glories of the trip are appreciated. The mind can readily understand how a train may wind through a chasm. It is less easy, however, to realize how, beginning to rise along the side, the elevation con- tinues until the tourist looks down upon a town, as it were, in miniature. Con- tinuing on its tortuous course, the train worms its way up a steep grade, carved and blasted through the rock, and skirts the sides of the mountains that lose their crests in snow. In the valley flows the little stream of Clear Creek. Past Devil's Gate and Bridal Veil Falls the engine curves and climbs. Looking directly above, a railroad track is seen on a high iron bridge over-spanning the rack almost at right angles, but in the form of a crescent. The tourist won- deringly inquires, " What road is that above and how did it get there ? " For a little way the track is comparatively straight ; then it varies to the right, crosses the creek and starts down the valley, but still going up grade. For perhaps a quarter of a mile this continues. Then the creek is crossed again on a high iron bridge. Looking directly down, a trach is seen below. Then the tourist wonders what track that is and how it got there. He looks again before satis- fying himself that it is the same track he just passed over. He is now on the bridge up at which he was looking but a moment ago. From the top, six 38 WESTERN RESORTS. pieces of track, apparently detached, can be seen. He then reahzes that he has just ridden over an immense loop — one of four in existence. There is one on the Southern Pacific Railroad, one in Switzerland, and one in the Andes of South America, but this is the most complex of them all. The bridge just crossed is 300 feet long and 86 feet high. From Georgetown it can be seen one way nestled in the mountains; looking at it from the other way there seems to be nothing but a confusion of tracks. It is a remarkable climb from here to the Big Fill, which is 76 feet high, but too sharp a curve to admit of a bridge, and comes nearer being a duplication of " The Loop." Georgetown is still in sight beyond the three parallel tracks of "The Loop." Looking down the final curve there is a wealth of track, but it dodges hither and thither, no portion seemingly having any special relation to its neighbor ; occasionally the entire trackage comes into view at once. After passing " The Loop " and Silver Plume, Graymont, the terminus of the railway, is reached. The tourist must not neglect to make this trip, and be sure to see sunrise from Gray's Peak, as it is one of the most celebrated in America. GRAY'S PEAK. Gray's Peak is reached from Denver through Clear Creek Caiion, via Golden, Forks Creek, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, and Silver Plume to Gray- mont, the terminus of the railway, from which station the ascent must be made. This peak is hidden by intervening mountains from the view at Graymont, the station where horses are taken for its ascent. There is a cosy little hotel here with plenty of safe horses and guides, but the trail is so easy that a child could almost lead the way. Gray's is higher than Pike's or Long's Peak, and Blanca only exceeds it by a few feet in height. Mounting after breakfast, and after a sharp turn to the left an earnest climb begins that continues over ridge and wooded gullies for two miles. The road has now dwindled to a path. On the left are abrupt heights, to which cling the lonely cabins of miners. The tunnels above them appear to have no greater circumference than rabbit holes. The trails lead across grassy-banked rivulets and blooming knolls past Kelso Mountain ; then, rounding the hill, Gray's Peak looms up unobscured for the first time. Gray's Peak is not rough and chasmed, but its vastness seems all the greater for the reason that it has preserved such a geological calm, and now, like a monarch, mighty in its superiority, looks down upon its fellows, sending the morning shadow of its greatness far on to the Pacific slope, and its evening profile toward the remote Atlantic. It is a mass, dread and awful. The air is rare and clear. Snow is piled about in eternal drifts, and below each drift, drawing its life from the exuding dampness, is a bed of flowers. Strange anomaly! Winter's hoary locks decked with the buds of June. Vegetation is FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 39 soon left behind, except here and there a hardy plant, rooted in the rocks. The trail ahead is seen on a series of inclined plains to the very crest, going back- ward and forward, but always rising. The hills and cliffs, which seemed so lofty, are now far below, and the lesser mountains are left behind, the only one unconquered being Gray's Peak. A wavering line stretches back to the valley, and the tourist wonders vaguely if that is the trail he has just come over. The horse pants as he takes the last turn, his shoes clink upon the granite jewels of the continental crown, and Gray's Peak is beneath you. The sea is 14,441 feet below your level. Hats off ! The Genius of this sublime solitude demands homage. They who have traversed the globe say that it affords but one such prospect. A pictured landscape so mighty in conception that it overpowers, yet harmoni- ous as an anthem in all its infinite diffusion of color and form, framed only by the limit of the eye's vision — a picture where the lakes gleam and the rivers flow — where the trees nod and the cloud-ships clash in mystic collision with the peaks that have invaded their realm, while the moving sun floods it with real life and warmth. That which is beheld in silence, who shall describe ? Below is the kingly monument meeting the heavens and declaring with them the glory of God. In every direction spurs of the Rocky Mountains bewilder the eye till remoteness swallows them up. Pike's Peak is a neighbor ; Lincoln's and Long's seem near. The smoke of a score of towns is seen. Every park in the State may be located. Rivers are traced from source to mouth. Eastward are the plains — a waterless ocean — each town a fleet, each house a sail, each grove an island. A dozen peaks over 14,000 feet high are seen. The Holy Cross, like a sacred seal, glints in the sunlight miles and miles away. The L^ intah Mountains, in Utah, are faint but distinct , and so are the Spanish Peaks, which keep watch at the line between Colorado and Nev/ Mexico. To see the sun rise here is a tourist's triumph. To do this, Graymont must be left at one o'clock a. m. Scaling the path by moonlight, fording noisy and dimly-seen streams, or plung- ing into the darkness of the pines, is a novel experience. Gradually the stars fr.de out, and Gray's Peak, the grim, granite monarch, shines with a borrowed lustre, giving back faintly the glow of coming morning. A thousand mountains turn rosy before Aurora's approach, and then burst into a radiance of responsive greeting as she asserts full sway. The valley below is covered up in darkness, for the light that quenched the stars has not yet fallen upon it. The land- . scape, at first but a vast expanse without shape or limit, resolves itself into an army of mountains, gathered in stupendous array about the Dome of the Continent. Imagine a view such as the flying bird has — seen with human vision — which comprehends the true and the beautiful, whether found in the realm of nature or of art. Imagine the heavens divinely painted ; the earth striving to give :40) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 41 back its color ; the concourse of peaks meeting the clouds, and the valleys stretching between developing upon the sight, such as the image thrown by a monster stereopticon, as the morning light comes over the heights upon this scene. Gray's Peak is Colorado's finest attraction. It is the highest point accessible by horse, and commands the most unapproachable view. PLATTE CANON. Twenty miles from Denver, on the South Park Branch, is Platte Caiion, and through this sinuous rift in the mountains rushes the Platte River, dancing out of its shadowy channel into the full light of the valley. The road, which is the short line to Leadville and the Gunnison country, enters the caiion where the river leaves it. The general aspect is much like that of Clear Creek Caiion, and it is a friendly rival. It is the same in being a rocky chasm, its bed a rush- ing stream, but different in its wild contour. To reach Platte Canon, the trai'ns pass through the western suburbs of Denver, skirting the wooded banks of the Platte, and twenty miles out, just where the river dances into the sunlight, enter the gloomy caiion between lofty and forbidding walls, which continue for fifty miles, receding, at tmes, to make room for picturesque little hamlets like Buffalo, Pine Grove, Slaghts, Grant, Kenosha, Como, and Garos. At all of these places, tourists can be accommodated, and trout and game abound. In fact, the ride over Kenosha Hill down into and through the South Park, is a constant reminder of the Alps, so much so that this trip is a part of the "Alpine Tours " advertised by the Union Pacific. At times, the train seems about to dash against the face of the cliff ; but, following the heavy steel rails, it turns suddenly and passes by in safety. The way through the caiion is a series of graceful curves, close to the overhanging rocks, often crossing the turbulent Platte River. In places, the tops of the canon almost seem to touch and exclude the sun. The caiion is a geological study ; the different formations, and the terrific force which has combined them, tell their own stories. Dome Rock is like the top of a buried mosque, and is as regular in shape as if fashioned by tne hand of man, except that one side is partly broken away. Cathedral Spires are in sight for miles, despite the winding of the caiion, and keep reappearing long after they are passed. This caiion affords fine opportunities for camping out. There is shade in plenty, trout, game, and bathing, and good board to be had at neighboring houses. But the best way is to live in a tent, and hire a servant to do the cook- ing. This is especially commended to the invalid tourist. There are fifty miles of this varying panorama, and after the train climbs Kenosha Hill, South Park is seen stretching away, one vast and level picture, as different from the canon as night is from day. DOME ROCK, IN PLATTE CANON, COLORADO — on the Union Pacitic System. (42) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 43 BOULDER CANON. Boulder Caiion is reached from Denver via the Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific to Boulder. From Boulder, a narrow-gauge road has been built into Boulder Caiion by the Union Pacific. This caflon can favorably compare with Clear Creek and Platte Cafions, yet it does not equal them in length, massiveness, nor height. In one place, a perfect image of Minnehaha comes dashing down from amid evergreen sides, and this spot has long been a rendezvous for picnic excursions. The road, on leaving the town of Boulder, passes through a beautiful grove, and continues on by Baldwin, Four-Mile Eanon, and Gold Hill, until it reaches Penn's Gulch, now known as Sunset. Just before arriving at Sunset, an upward glance reveals the high range of mountains, but passing that, the ascent is much like that of Kenosha Hill in the South Park, affording, if possible, a much finer view. It's a glorious mount of the range, with sweeping, rock- bound curves, each one bringing the visitor nearer the summit. The valley, with its wavering hills, is receding. The end of the curve is seven and a half miles from Sunset. In that distance there is a marvelous rise of many feet. The end of this grade, after all its meanderings, is visible from Sunset. Sunset is an acquisition to the excursionist ; Boulder was good before, but with the new adjunct, is doubly so. The altitude of Sunset is 7,696 feet. The view around Sunset is glorious. On every hand the mountains are glistening with snow. Peak rises above peak with majesty unspeakable ; yet, wearying of these, the eye may turn and be rested by the vastness of the plains and the intervening hills. Boulder is forty- seven miles from Denver on the broad-gauge Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific, although the cut-off via Argo and C. C- junctions make it only twenty-nine miles. It can also be reached from Denver via Golden or via Brighton. Its altitude is 5,335 feet, and it has a population of over 4,000. It has good hotels, and is a fine summering place. Boulder is the county seat of Boulder County, and a key to the caiion of the same name. It is situated just at the junction of the foothills with the plains, thus enjoying the cool breezes from the mountains, while on the other hand stretch away green and fertile acres for cattle and crops. Underneath these acres are vast deposits of coal and precious metals, which combine to make Boulder an im- portant mining centre. Within a few miles of the town are many pretty lakes dotted with water-fowl. The Seltzer Springs, of Springdale, are ten miles northwest. The waters from these springs are steadily growing in popularity, and are among the best mineral waters in Colorado ; along Jim Creek is the attractive little glen in which they are found, amidst a dense forest of pines, through which runs a fine carriage road. Stages run daily from Boulder to this point, where there are good hotels and excellent accommodations. 44 WESTERN RESORTS POINTS ABOUT THE COLORADO PARKS. To fully understand the Colorado parks they must be seen. No description can do them justice, and neither the skill of a Bierstadt or Moran could picture their pure atmosphere — so like a breath from paradise — nor reproduce theii beauteous colors and forms. In the city, a park is a huge square, with trees in checker-board primness, where the lakes have fish as tame as chickens; the ani- mals are in cages, and are neither attractive nor natural. But how different a mountain park ! The range kindly parts to give it room, and shields it in its great arms. There are grassy hills and dales where feed the noblest game, and trees which shelter birds of plumage and song. The lakes — some of them miles in length — are rippled by the coming and going of ducks and geese. The streams bear along, eager for the bait of the angler, their speckled loads of trout, most delicious as they brown over the evening's coals. There are no precise graveled walks, and no elaborate fountains, but the footfall is lost on the turf, and springs gush forth with sparkling tune to gladden the thirsty with a liquid such as never ran through the rusty pipes of a city. The altitude gives coolness without chill, and warmth without oppressive heat. ESTES PARK. Estes Park is easily reached from Denver, via Loveland, on the Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific, and a stage line which runs daily, except Sunday, from Loveland to the park. Estes Park is pronounced the most beautiful of Colorado parks. It lies about sixty miles from Denver, at the foot of Long's Peak. The park is ten miles square, and its elevation is 8,000 feet above the sea-level. It is a wild and incomparable spot. Dinner is taken at Rattlesnake Park about noon, after a drive over one of the most beautiful and picturesque of inountain roads. The park is reached about five o'clock in the afternoon. The stage-ride itself, with its beautiful views, is alone worth the trip. At one point on the line over thirty-five lakes on the plains and among the foothills are in view from the coach. From the top of Bald Mountain and Pole Hill views can be had of the val- leys of the Cache La Poudre, Big Thompson, and St. Vrain. The view of Estes Park and Snowy Range from Park Hill, just before descending i-nto the park, is one of the grandest scenes in the Rocky Mountains. There are plenty of accommodations of every kind, and prices are reasonable. There are beautiful glades and odorous pines, numerous lakes, and game and trout in plenty. NORTH PARK. North Park is reached from Denver, via the Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific to Fort Collins, a thrifty and attractive little town seventy-seven miles from Denver, and by stage from Fort Collins to the park. North Park FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 45 can also be reached by stage from Laramie, Wyoming, on the main line of the Union Pacific. The road from Fort Collins to the park goes through the world- famous Cache La Poudre region, where the hunting and fishing cannot be ex- celled. North Park is Colorado's best hunting field. It is rugged in places, and vast. Its dimensions are seventy-five by fifty miles, with an elevation of 9,000 feet above the sea-level. The jagged spires of the Rockies, clothed with perpetual snow, look down upon the park from an elevation of some 14,000 feet. There are mineral springs, in stony basins, bubbling up icy cool from an unknown depth. In autumn the larger game comes down to join the grouse, quail, squirrel, and rabbit. A summer in North Park can be very pleasantly spent. MIDDLE PARK. Middle Park is best reached from Denver, via the Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific Railway, through Georgetown or Sunset, and by stage from either place to the park. The road from Georgetown, however, is the best and most generally preferred. It is a notable ride by rail and stage. Middle Park is like North Park, only larger, with more and larger hills and wider dales and streams of grander sweep. The elevation is about 8,000 feet. From Georgetown to Hot Sulphur Springs is forty-six miles, just a day's journey. This is the scenic centre of the park. Never had nymphs of the wood a bathing place more charming. The water is hot or cold, clear or sul- phur charged. Lave in the waters, and the aches and pains which flesh is heir to rapidly disappear. The slopes of the Grand, Fraser, Blue, and Trouble- some Mountains abound in feathered and other game. Elk in particular are plenty. SOUTH PARK. South Park is best reached from Denver, via the South Park Branch of the LTnion Pacific to Kenosha, seventy-six miles from Denver, or to Como, eighty- eight miles from Denver. Both of these places are in the park, and there are stage lines to different points of interest. The park is about fifty miles in length and from ten to twenty miles in width, and its elevation is about 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. South Park is in itself a magnificent domain. It is not so rugged as the other parks, being more of a level plateau. It is bordered on the east by a heavily-timbered range some 2,000 feet above the park, while to the west the Snowy Range extends as far as the eye can reach. In this range, in plain view, are a number of the highest peaks in Colorado. One of the most noted mountains is the Mount of the Holy Cross, which can be seen from Robinson Station, a few miles from Leadville. This is one of Colorado's wonders. The elevation of this mountain is 14,176 feet above the sea-level. (46) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 47 Quoting from Mr. Ernest Ingersoll : " It is the Mount of the Holy Cross, bearing the sacred symbol in such heroic characters as dwarf all human grav- ing, and set on the pinnacle of the world as though in sign of possession for- ever. The Jesuits went hand in hand with the Chevalier Dubois proclaiming Christian Gospel in the Northern forests ; the Puritan brought his Testament to New England ; the Spanish banners of victory on the golden shores of the Pacific were upheld by the fiery zeal of the friars of San Francisco ; the frozen Alaskan cliffs resounded to the chanting of the monks of St. Peter and St. Paul. On every side the virgin continent was taken in the name of Christ* and with all the eclat of religious conquest. Yet from ages unnumbered be- fore any of them, centuries oblivious in the mystery of past time, the cross had been planted here. As a prophecy during unmeasured»generations, as a sign of glorious fulfillment during nineteen centuries, from always and to eternity a reminder of our fealty to heaven, this divine seal has been set upon our proud- est eminence." This wonderful park can be seen from the line of the South Park Branch of the Union Pacific for a distance of nearly forty miles. The road just skirts the park, so that the view extends clear over it. South Park is soft in color- ing, magnificent in its sweep of distance, clothed in summer's velvet, trimmed with the ermine of never-melting snow, shaded by promontory, and flecked by countless herds of cattle. It is one of nature's masterpieces, and to those who love the quiet of beauty rather than its ruggedness, nothing will be found more impressive. MOUNT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGS, COLORADO, On the South Park Division of the Union Pacific System, a perfect park of over i,ooo acres, nestled in a beautiful valley at the foot of one of the noblest mountains in the Continental Range; the crescent surrounding the valley com- pleted by a range of hills densely clothed with pinion pines, and, opening out toward the east, the broad Arkansas Valley; a rushing mountain torrent flow- ing for three miles through the grounds; Mount Antero and Mount Shavano looking down from their lofty thrones 14,000 feet above the world — this is a bird's-eye view of Mount Princeton Hot Springs. The springs, over forty in number, are in the heart of this valley; their flow is over 1,000,000 gallons daily, the mean temperature being about 130'^ Fahr. These waters have been found very efficacious in cases of rheumatism, dys- pepsia, catarrh, and the like, and, in some instances, paralysis has been cured. The altitude at the springs is about 8,000 feet; the winters are very mild, snow very rarely falling in the valley, owing to the protection afforded by the vast range on the west. The accommodations offered at Mount Princeton Hot Springs are very superior in every particular. The new eighty-room hotel has just been com- (48) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 49 pleted, and will be open for visitors during the season of 1890. The liouse is one of the finest in Southern Colorado, artistic in design and construction, and possessing every modern improvement, as well as those comforts which are so welcome to tourists; for the average traveler will be surprised to find at a mountain resort a hotel like this, so thoroughly and even luxuriously appointed. It is lighted with electricity, heated by hot water, and equipped with hot baths, electric bells, etc., etc.; a fine bath-house, containing plunge, vapor, and shower baths, supplied from the hot mineral springs: a swimming-pool, 100x300 feet; a splendid lake, with an area of about fifty acres, maintained for the en- tertainment of guests, in the way of boating and fishing, and, lastly, the observa- tory on the summit of Mount Princeton, six miles distant, and reached by an easy carriage-road. Mount Princeton is 14,192 feet above sea-level, and one of the loftiest peaks in the Continental Range. Nature has been lavish here in fitting this spot for a health and pleasure resort, and the time is not far dis- tant when these hot springs will be sought by thousands of visitors, as well for their beautiful environments 'as the healing quality of the waters. ALPINE TUNNEL. Alpine Tunnel is on the line of the South Park Branch of the Union Pacific between St. Elmo and Gunnison. Leaving St. Elmo for Gunnison, the little town of Hancock is passed, and then a long, slanting tangent leads to a lofty hole in the mountain. On a little farther, and a plunge is taken into the black- ness of the Alpine Tunnel, shooting through the rocks at a height of 11,596 feet. Snow lies in perpetual banks on either side, but flowers bright and fra- grant fill the frosty air with their perfume, and light it with their colors. Some- where along the way the seasons clasp hands; for though it be summer in the valley, it is not summer here — only that these flowery tokens sweetly defy the nipping chill. Except in the South American Andes, this tunnel is the highest railroad point ever attained. The tourist enters from the Atlantic slope, and emerges upon the Pacific. The point of change is in the center, and the im- petus tells the moment it is crossed. The engine, just before goaded to its work, has now to be held in severe check by the engineer. Two drops of water, such as continually fall from the roof, are hanging but 'lalf an inch apart. Trembling in the cold and blackness, they loosen their tiny hold and patter down. They were neighbors; but, after hesitating a second, each starts with its fellows, and when they finally reach the ocean there is a span of a continent between them. The actual length of the tunnel, aside from its approaches, is 1,773 f^^t. The 70,000 linear feet of California redwood lining was brought up on pack-horses over trails which had known the touch of no hoof save that of the mountain sheep, and where man himself had scarce dared to venture. Op- erations were carried on from both ends, and despite the curvature, when the respective gangs first caught the flash of the other's lamps, they were less than 50 WESTERN RESORTS. one inch out of the line the engineer had mapped out for them. The great expanse was only warranted by the greatness of the country, which is now fast- ened to the outer world by this link of darkness. After passing the tunnel on the way to Gunnison, the Palisades, Quartz Valley, San Juan, Uncompaghre, Hair Pin Curve, and Juniata Hot Springs, are objects of interest which the tourist should see. BRECKENRIDGE, A town of some 2,000 population, with an elevation of 9,524 feet, is on the South Park Branch of the Union Pacific, on the road to Leadville. It is a mining town of considerable importance, and a day may be spent here to good advantage. An object of interest to the tourist will be found in the museum of Prof. E. Carter. The professor's collection consists of carefully preserved specimens of beasts and birds found in Colorado only. Many of the species in this exhibit are now extinct. LEADVILLE. Leadville is best reached from Denver over the South Park Branch of the Union Pacific, and from there the distance is 151 miles. The altitude of Leadville is 10,185 ^^^^ above the level of the sea. The climate in winter is much milder than that of the Middle or Eastern States. The population is over 20,000. Leadville is one of the largest mining camps in the world, and, within a decade, has grown from a mere cluster of miners' cabins to a cosmo- politan city possessing all the conveniences of an older place, with gas, electric lights, fine business blocks, elegant private residences, churches, banks, thea- tres, and good hotels. In fact, Leadville is one of the wonders of the nine- teenth century. A visit to Colorado without a sight of Leadville is incom- plete, as there is much to inspect in the noted mines and smelters, aside from the charming scenery. Evergreen Lakes are readily reached by a stage drive of six miles over a good road, and Twin Lakes are also accessible. GUNNISON. Gunnison is a busy little city of 3,000 souls. Its coal supplies are inexhausti- ble, while gold and silver underlie its hills. As the site for immense steel works, its future is assured. Already it boasts of gas and water works, and such a hotel as would be first-class in any city. Gunnison is a good rendez- vous for hunting and fishing parties. Note. — For further information, see "Sights and Scenes in Colorado," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing mi- nute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in Colorado. FOR HEALTH AND J'LEASLRE. 51 The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates, during the summer season, a series of excursion tickets called " Alpine Tours," covering the principal points throughout "The Switzerland of America," using Denver as a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limits of the tickets. The tickets will be good for thirty days from date of sale, and will be sold only to holders of first-class excursion tickets over the Union Pacific. The following grand tours are afforded : First Alpine Tour, comprises the South Park Branch of the Union Pacific Railway, through the wonders of Platte Canon, over Kenosha Hill, through South Park, via Como, to Alpine Tunnel, and the glorious scenery of "The American Alps," as far south as Fort Worth. From Gunnison, the return trip is made to Como, and from Come to the magic city of Leadville, and from Leadville, via Como, back to Denver. Second Alpine Tour : From Denver up Clear Creek Canon, via Golden and Forks Creek, to Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Silver Plume, Graymont and Gray's Peak. Returning from Graymont to Idaho Springs a detour of six miles is made to Central City by stage, and from there by rail down a branch of Clear Creek Canon to Forks Creek, and thence back to Denver. Third Alpine Tour : From Denver to Boulder and Sunset, returning by way of Ft. Collins and Greeley to Denver. The tours embrace in their extent the grandest scenery in Colorado, whether of mountain height, picturesqi e ciuon or beautiful valley. The points named are easy of access, and the train service of the Union Pacific unsurpassed for punctuality and comfort. JSIOXR^ Bow Knot Loop near Georgetow/t J, Col O.. /' '^"( (j^ ON THt y**^ /^ C.C.Oiv. (N.G.) 'J.P.R-Y. (I GEORG£TOWN g /f ^ W.^' ^' ^ ^iiii.^/^'^'^'i , , ^^^^ '■f\, \ V ; 5 ) -^^r^--^ ■? ' f '' ■] JSan-3. JlrSall, t Co. (53) FROM THE ALPS TO THE SEA. Y the recent acquisition of the Denver, Texas & Forth Worth !>" Railway, the Union Pacific system controls an imperial domain extending from the mountain heights of Colorado to the Gulf of Mexico, and its patrons have the choice of any altitude, and all possible conditions of climate and atmosphere. Almost every phase of American scenery, every sharp contrast from the heart of the Rockies to the "Palms of the South," can be seen on the many divisions of this great road, the Union Pacific, the inal overland route. Taking Denver to be the local point, which indeed it is and always will be for the State of Colorado, the first place of importance on this new division is COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO, seventy-three miles south. The ride from Denver to Colorado Springs is one of the most charming in Colorado. While moving through a beautiful valley, which gives evidence of fine cultivation, there are on either side magnificent views of peculiarly majestic scenery. We are almost under the shadows of the very " Prince of the Range," and in the presence of the most impressive pano- rama in the Rocky Mountains; to the far south the Spanish Peaks and the lesser brotherhood of snow-crowned summits loom and fade and fade and loom through the tranquil summer air like the baseless fabric of a dream. The mountain wall close at hand, the vivid green in the near foreground and the distant vision of ever-lengthening, receding sentinel peaks seems like a view from an enchanted valley. Colorado Springs is essentially a home resort. There are more people who have summer homes here than in any of the other frequented places in Colo- rado. There are good hotels in abundance and any number of attractive boarding-houses; but such is the beauty and salubrity of the place that visitors who arrive here make up their minds to stay for the entire season, and, as a result, they gather about them the essentials of home life and home comfort. (53) 54 WESTERN RESORTS There are no factories of any sort in Colorado Springs — nothing to take away from its quiet, secluded beauty. The streets are broader than is usual in most cities, and lined with shade-trees. The town has about 10,000 people, is well lighted and paved, and possesses all the modern equipments for luxury and comfort in living. A few miles distant from Colorado Springs, and connected by two lines of railway and street cars, is world-famous MANITOU, COLORADO. Everyone has heard of it, hundreds of thousands have been there, and thousands more each succeeeding summer wend their way to this queen of mountain resorts. For Manitou possesses a charm which lingers — a magic spell which comes unbidden to haunt the traveler who has once rested under her witching glamour. In the first place, then, just a few practical details before we enter upon the poetry of the place and the glory of her environment. Manitou lies in a cup- like glen, surrounded by mountains, and has for an impressive background, high above the surrounding summits, the lonely majesty of Pike's Peak. Its regular inhabitants number perhaps 1,500 or 2,000; there are two electric-light plants in full working order and three miles of streets lighted by the arc light; a beautiful avenue eighty feet wide runs through the village. On either side of this avenue, on the mountain-side, may be seen numberless mansions, villas and cottages. These residences are peculiarly elegant in design and construc- tion. In the very center of the town are the springs, inclosed within pleasure grounds, si)arkling and bubbling from their hidden reservoirs. Hotels there are in profusion; boarding-houses, cottages, almost any kind of a retreat, sanctuary or home that a traveler may desire. The environment of Manitou is really remarkable for its extent and variety. There is a surfeit of walks, rides and drives: The ascent to the summit of Pike's Peak, (ilen Eyrie, Queen's Canon, Devil's Punch Bowl, Cheyenne Canon, and Seven I'\dls; Petrified Trees, Monument Park with the Mammoth Anvil, Dutch Wedding, Vulcan Workshop and Dunce's Paliament; Ruxton's Glen, Iron Spring and I'te Pass — all these and more. And yet there remains the one spot, the Erectheum of the place, THE GARDEN OF THE GODS. Perhaps no American writer of recent times has pictured Colorado scenery so lovingly, so truthfully and with such finished skill as Ernest IngersoU. He owns (]uite frankly that an accurate description of this "ruinous perfection " is almost hopeless. In the "Crest of the Continent" he says: " There is the "Garden of the (iods, hidden behind those garish walls of red and yellow sand- FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 55 "Stone, so stark and out of place in the soberly-toned landscape that they "travesty Nature, convertuig the whole picture into a theatrical scene, and a "highly spectacular one at that. " Passing behind the sensational walls, one is not surprised to find a sort of "gigantic peep-show in pantomine. The solid rocks have gone masquerad- , " ing in every sort of absurd costume and character. The colors of the mak- " up, too, are varied from black through all the browns and drabs to pure white, " and then again through yellows and buffs and pinks up to staring red. Who " can portray adequately these odd forms of chiseled stone ? I have read a dozen "descriptions, and so have you, no doubt. But one I have just seen in a letter "by a Boston lady is so pertinent, that you shall have the pleasure of reading "it. ' The impression is of something mighty, unreal, and supernatural. Of " ' the Gods, surely, but the Gods of the Norse Walhalla in some of their strange " * outbursts of wild rage or uncouth playfulness. The beauty-loving divinities " 'of Greece and Rome could have nothing in common with such sublime awk- "* wardness. Jove's ambrosial curls must shake in another Olympia than this. "'Weird and grotesque, but solemn and awful at the same time, as if one stood " 'on the confines of another world and soon the veil would be rent which " ' divided them.* Words are worse than useless to attempt such a picture. Per- "haps, if one could live in the shadow of its savage grandeur for months until " his soul was premeated, language would begin to find itself flowing in proper " channels, but in the first stupor of astonishment one must only hold his breath. "The garden itself, the holy of holies, as most fancy, is not so overpowering "to me as the vast outlying wildness. " To pass in between massive portals of rock, of brilliant terra-cotta red, and enter on a plain, miles in extent, covered in all directions with magnifi- "cent isolated masses of the same striking color, each lifting itself against the "wonderful blue of a Colorado sky with a sharpness of outline that would "shame the fine cutting of an etching; to find the ground under your feet over "the whole immense surface, carpeted with the same rich tint, underlying "arabesques of green and gray, where grass and mosses have crept; to come "upon masses of pale, velvety gypsum, set now and again as if to make more "effective by contrast the deep red which strikes the dominant chord of the "picture; and always, as you look through or above, to catch the stormy bil- "lows of the giant mountain range, tossed against the sky, with the regal, snow "crowned massiveness of Pike's Peak rising over all, is something, once seen, " never to be forgotten. Strange, grotesque shapes, mammoth caricatures of "animals, clamber, crouch, or spring from vantage points hundreds of feet in "air. Here a battlemented wall is pierced by a round window; there a cluster "of slender spires lift themselves; beyond, a leaning tower slants through the "blue air, or a cube as large as a dwelling-house is balanced on a pivot-like "point at the base, as if a child's strength could upset it. Imagine all this, 56 WKSTERN RESORTS " scintillant with color, set under a dazzling sapphire dome, with the silver stems "and delicate frondage of young cottonwoods in one space, or a strong young "hemlock lifting green symmetrical arms from some high rocky cliff in another. "This can be told; but the massiveness of sky-piled masonry, the almost •" infernal mixture of grandeur and grotesqueness, are beyond expression. After " the first few moments of wild exclamation one sinks into an awed silence. The "reader must see for himself these grotesque monuments, these relics of ruined "strata, these sportive, wind-cut ghosts of tiie old regime, these fanciful images " of things seen and unseen, which stand thickly over hundreds of acres like the "mouldering ruins of some half-buried city of the desert, if he would fully " understand." Going southward from Colorado Springs, a series of grand perspectives attract and charm the tourist. Nature here is in her most majestic mood; there is little of tenderness or delicate carving; these ghastly rents and seams are tragic, and the grandeur of these mountain gorges is terrible and awesome, rather than beautiful. Some of these lonely spots remind one of Dore's appall- ing pictures of the "Inferno." The next town of prominence is PUEBLO, COLORADO, a city born to greatness, for it possesses untold advantages. In the first place, Pueblo has a lower altitude than any city or farming community in the State, being 4,660 feet above sea-level. Surrounding it is an immense tract of country susceptible of raising all kinds of fruits, cereals, and vegetables. There are thousands of acres of rich land within a short distance of the city, which are now utilized by the stock-raisers. The city stands on the site of an old Mexi- can village, and is situated on both sides of the Arkansas River. It has a population of about 30,000. The city presents a metropolitan appearance. Handsome brick and stone business blocks, and public buildings, and elegant residences are to be seen on every side. There are eighteen churches in Pueblo, eight schools, six banks, and eighteen hotels. The Methodist College, and the State Insane Asylum are located here. But it is as a manufacturing center that Pueblo is destined to become famous. Here are located the great Bessemer-steel works, and some of the largest ore stamping, smelting and refining works in the State; in addition, there are railway car and machine shops, foundries, and flour-mills. The reasons for a lively faith in the future prosperity of Pueblo are easily shown: The town is close at hand to vast mineral fields which are easily worked; it hds excellent railroad facilities; living is cheap, and constant employment can be given to thousands of men. The steel works and refineries will, in the near future, be supplemented by other like industries. FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 57 The climate here is mild and pleasant in the winter; it is warm during the daytime in summer, but always cool at night. There is a splendid mineral spring on the east side of the city, charged with iron, carbonate of lime, white sulphur, magnesia, and potassium; the water is also strongly magnetic. These springs are especially recommended for rheumatism, kidney complaints, and similar diseases. There is a good hotel at the springs; boarding-houses and numerous cottages at reasonable rental. This charming resort is known as "Clark's Magnetic Mineral Spring." TRINIDAD, COLORADO, is 215 miles from Denver, and the largest city in extreme Southern Colorado. It has a population of over 10,000, and an altitude of 6,250 feet above sea-level. Scientific experts tell us that Trinidad is situated in the center of the richest coal-belt in the world; it is the supply depot for all the coke used in adjacent territory. Iron is found in immense quantities in the immediate vicinity; gyp- sum, granite, alum, and fine building stone are also close at hand. Thus sur- rounded by mineral wealth, unlimited and inexhaustible, Trinidad's destiny as a great manufacturing point is a foregone conclusion. Among the more impor- tant industries now in operation may be mentioned the manufacture of min- eral paint, lime, plaster-of-paris, and fire-brick. Between 3,000 and 4,000 men now find employment in and around the city. The town has water-works, gas and electric-light, street-cars, and all metropolitan improvements. It is not generally known that Trinidad is the center of the wool trade in Colorado, the annual shipment amounting to upwards of 3,500,000 pounds. It has always been, and is now, a great cattle center, and is at present the largest hide receiving point in the State. While Trinidad is rich within herself in natural resources, she is also the undisputed trade and money center for an immense territory, which includes Southern Colorado, Northern New Mexico, and a large portion of Northern Texas. The climate here is delightful, free from malaria and fevers, and all the diseases incident to lower altitudes. TO THE GULF. From Trinidad south, the road traverses the limitless, undulating, great staked plains of Texas, first, however, running through i\ remnant of Colorado and across a corner of New Mexico. This splendid country must be seen to be appreciated. In productive fertility it is unsurpassed, while the climate admits of farming in seasons when the Northern States are under winter snow. Here is a land where wheat, cotton and fruits are a sure crop, and easily raised. The average elevation of this great table-land is something over 4,000 feet above sea-level. Malaria and fevers are unknown. Over 60,000 actual /^t'wdiyf^^ settlers came into this section in 1889, and the yearly ratio of immigration is 58 WESTERN RESORTS fully as large. Both Iowa and Illinois have sent a large contingent to North- ern Texas, and more are on the way. The reason alleged for this exodus is simply to escape the long winters, and the accompanying discomforts of farm- ing, in the higher latitudes, and the desire to secure a home where agriculture may be pursued under genial climatic influences. Farming in Northern Texas is attended with none of the hardships known to dwellers in the frosty North. FORT WORTH, TEXAS, the terminus of this division of the Union Pacific System, is a bright, energetic town of 35,000 inhabitants, handsomely built, and possessing all the conven- iences and luxuries of modern city life. Here the traveler may plan tours in a dozen different directions, for Fort Worth is one of the greatest railway centers in the South. He stands at the very portal of the Southern semi-tropical realm of magnolia groves and palms and flowers; the warm breath of the Gulf in- vites him; the subtle perfume of summer draws him to become a partaker in the splendor of light and color, on earth and sea and sky, in the serene empire of the sunny South. WYOMING POINTS. 'YOMING was organized as a Territory under an Act of Congress passed July 25, 1868, and derives its name from the historical Wyoming Valley of Pennsylvania, the scene of a barbarous massacre just after the American Revolu- lution of 1776. It was admitted to the Union as a State July 10, 1890. The first actual settlements made were the trading posts of Forts Laramie and Bridger. The "^^^^ State has an area of 98,000 square miles; it is 365 miles in length and 275 miles wide. Its mineral resources are very extensive ; stone, soda, and iron ore are abundant, and copper, lead, plumbago, and petroleum are also found within its borders, as well as coal of fine quality in many places. This State is as yet but sparsely settled, but in natural resources it is behind no section in America. The tourist who passes through it must not base his judgment on the view from the car window. Remember that Yellowstone National Park itself is in Wyoming. There are soda lakes near Laramie and Rawlins, immense Hot Springs near Camp Ground, and Warm Springs near Fort Steele. For the hunter it is an ideal hunting ground, containing all man- ner of game, from cotton-tails to grizzly bears. CHEYENNE. Cheyenne, 6,050 feet in altitude, with a population of about 10,000, is one of the sprightliest and most prosperous cities in the entire West. It is well and compactly builc, and for many years has been the centre of the cattle industry of the Northwest. Cheyenne has been a wild town, but is now a well regulated city with many fine stores and handsome residences. It constituted for a long time the outpost of civilization, becoming embodied in the legends of border life, and is a place of rare historical interest. Five miles from the city is Fort Russell, one of the largest military posts in the West. Cheyenne possesses all the modern improvements — gas, electric light, street- car service, and most of the luxuries of city life. This is the junction point of the two main stems of the L^nion Pacific — the Nebraska Main Line, 516 miles (59) GARDINER RIVER HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK — reached via Union Pacific System. FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 61 from Omaha, and the Kansas Main Line, 746 miles from Kansas City. This section is capable of producing great crops of corn and wheat, and, with the influx of the farming element, better results may be looked for. In the imme- •diate vicinity of Cheyenne fire-clay is found in great abundance, and fine flint- :sand is plentiful a few miles north. Two industries are thus secured in the matter of material — the manufacturing of pottery and glass. From Cheyenne a branch of the Union Pacific runs north through a magnificient agricultural •country to Douglas, Wyoming, 167 miles distant. SHERMAN, A small station just west of Cheyenne, at an elevation of 8,247 feet, is the loftiest point in the transcontinental ride. From Sherman can be seen Long's Peak, nearly 200 miles away. Near the station is the Ames' Monument, a pyra- midal granite structure sixty-five feet in height, with a base sixty feet square, which was erected by the Union Pacific Railway to the memory of the Ames Brothers, to whom the completion of the Union Pacific was largely due. Hip- popotamus Rock is one of the sights of the vicinity. The scenery is wild and rugged. Just beyond Sherman is Dale Creek bridge, one of the most remarkable sights of the overland trip. The structure is of iron, and stretches from bluff to bluffwith a 650-foot span. The train passes over it just 127 feet above the creek, which looks like a mere rivulet below. Pike's Peak can be seen away off to the south, not less than 165 miles distant. The Red Buttes, an object of interest to the tourist, lie just beyond. LARAMIE. Laramie, often called the "Gem City of the Rockies," has and elevation of 7,149 feet above sea-level, and a population of about 6,000. It is one of the principal towns on the main line of the Union Pacific between Council Bluffs and Ogden. It is situated on Big Laramie River, fifty-seven miles northwest •of Cheyenne, and is an important market for wool. Its schools are good, and the University of Wyoming and the United States Penitentiary are located here. Just southeast of the town is located the State fish hatchery, at Soldier Springs. This has a capacity of hatching half a million trout at a time, and with these the streams and Lakes of Wyoming are being rapidly stocked ■with the finest food-fish in the world. From Laramie there is a stage line, •during the summer months, to North Park, Colorado. GREEN RIVER. There are many objects of interest in and around Green River, among which are the peculiar clay buttes by which it is surrounded. The coal mines CLIFF IN GRAND CANON, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK — reached via the Union Pacific System. (62) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 03 of Rock Springs and Carbon, a few miles east of Green River, are well worth a visit from the tourist. The quality of the coal is excellent, and is used by the Union Pacific on its engines. It is at this point that the trains are made up for Portland, Oregon, although they do not leave the main line until Granger is reached, a few mdes farther west. EVANSTON. Evanston, 382 miles west of Laramie, is another prosperous town, with a population of about 3.000 people, and an elevation of 6,759 feet above the sea level. There is in this locality much to interest the hunter, the tourist, and the scientist. It is not far to the resorts of large game. The formation of the country is a peculiar one, it being broken, distorted, and worn into the most fantastic shapes. There are strong indications of precious metals, and a great wealth of coal and building materials. Near Evanston are a series of cool mineral springs that gush forth from a stratum of limestone with an abundant flow. Evanston is also a military post, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. The park occupies the northwestern corner of Wyoming, extending slightly into Idaho and Montana. It is readily reached from Pocatello, by the Utah & Northern Branch of the Union Pacific, via Beaver Cafion, Idaho, and thence by stage to Fire Hole Basin in the Park. From various points along the line near Beaver Caiion can be seen the Three Tetons, distant some hundred miles, •overlooking the southwestern boundary of the Yellowstone Park, keeping, as it were, silent guard from their lofty heights over the national gift. There is, in the summer, a regular line of stages from Beaver Canon to Fire Hole Basin in the park. The distance is about ninety miles and the drive a most exhilarating and delightful experience. Starting from Beaver Caiion in the morning a spin of about twenty miles brings the traveler to Camas Mead- ows. These are level stretches inclosed by mountains and covered with brown grass. To the southeast the Three Tetons stand out majestically, their sharp peaks white with snow, and their sides deep blue. Snake River Crossing is reached at sunset. Resuming the journey in the morning, for the first few miles the road leads through the woods, and then enters a great circular basin, which is ten miles long, by as many wide, and at its upper end is Henry's Lake, a bright blue body of water, filled with fish. Out of the basin the road toils up the steep slopes of Tyghee Pass, onto the ''Continental Divide," and from the summit the tourist beholds a lovely panorama. To the east one looks into the Madison Valley; to the west the wagon-road can be traced over which the traveler has come. The ashes and maples on the mountain side are glow- ing in gold and crimson, the grass darkly brown, and the lake below a luminous (64) f FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 65. blue. From the pass downward the road plunges into a dense forest, which hides the outlines of the valley. Manly's Cabin is reached at noon. From here the route is across the Madison River and down the valley, keeping the river in sight for the most part of the way. Half way across is the western boundary line of the park, and a small military camp has been established here. The main duty consists in protecting the game within the park. There is a high, narrow ridge of land dividing the western portion of the park from Lower Geyser Basin, and from the top of this divide the vast area of the park is discerned. Fire Hole Basin is reached in the evening, and the tourist safely landed in the very heart of this marvelous region — that grand national gift to the people for their amusement and instruction — a lordly domain for themselves and their children. When Yellowstone National Park was set aside to be forever the grand tour- ist resort of the people, and their common property, few had an idea of the endless variety and stupendous grandeur of the features embraced in this tract of country, fifty-five by sixty-five miles. The park embraces an area of 3,000 square miles, has an average elevation of about 8,000 feet above sea-level, and is encircled by magnificent mountain ranges. From Fire Hole Basin there are seen pillars of clouds showing where the springs and geysers are. Geyser Meadows are two miles away. Here are several geysers which throw their torrents twenty-five feet or higher. Dome Spring is at the top of a calcareous deposit of livid colors, and some of its neighbors are similarly situated. "Queen Laundry'^ is a clear spring, whose waters will almost instantly cleanse even the dirtiest saddle-blanket, and which finally drop into a basin at delightful bathing temperature. Fairy Creek Falls, jump 250 feet over an adjacent cliff. With these spouting, leaping novelties all about, Midway Geyser Basin is reached, five miles from Fire Hole Basin. Here are the grandest hot springs in the world. The overflow of hot water comes from the Great Spring, the equal of which no human eye ever saw. This aper- ture is 250 feet across, and is walled in by sides thirty feet high. The surface is in constant turmoil, and the rising steam scalds the incautious. A glance into the gulf causes a shudder. Only a few yards away there is a cold fount twenty- five feet in diameter, filling an elaborately chased basin of unknown depth. Near by are the Chalk Vats, bubbling and spurting their mushy compound, and throwing out splashes of it which vary from a snowy white to a bright pink. Upper Geyser Basin, eight miles from Fire Hole Basin, is the seat of the ten largest geysers ever discovered, beside which those of Iceland are trifling. There is a charming grove within a stone's-throw of castle geyser, which begins to give vent to its pent up force in muttered thunder, and then its flood shoots over the cone, first a spirt, then a stream; then, with a shaking of the earth and the roar of a tempest, a river bounds upward like a rocket, submerging broad acres with the descent of its boiling flood. Half a mile away, "Old Faithful" spouts every fifty-seven minutes, throwing a stream several feet in diameter to APPROACH TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK — reached via the Union Pacific Syst 1. Ford of the Snake River. 2. Spearing Trout, Snake River. 3. Hunter's Cabin, Henry Lake. (66) !-*'•«•'■» ^'t ^^'^ 1 ^1?.>o^ H i •>^3 ^-e^' •^■\i> ^^^' .•i^ ^^'>' 2Sis& te SI Q i^ - »iF V ^ «v>V * n> — S22 5 a, o » "^ t^la ■• *'SO S" 0)3 "^O :i ?=• ^-1 r*« ^i ?i''. so •> a - 05 o .i- = so ^ ^ 5 o" «■ iff ■D H ^ JT f) PI Ai FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 67 a height of 200 feet. Across the river is the "Bee Hive," whose fountain flies 200 feet in the air, forming a crystal arch beautiful in the sunlight. "The Giantess" has a crater eighteen by fifteen feet in diameter, belching forth such a volume as doubles the amount of water in Fire Hole River, here twenty feet in width and a foot deep. There is a thrill, a groan, a tremor, dense volumes of steam, a rolling and clashing of unseen waves, and a deafening boom as an immense body of water is hurled up toward the sky, its extreme jet reaching 250 feet above the earth. Next is Gibbon Falls, where, in a wildwood tangle, they drop 80 feet ; then Gibbon Canon, with its sides 2,000 feet high, from which the tourist emerges into Elk Park. In the defile is heard a boom, boom, boom, that never ceases, and from an orifice in the rock comes steam in regular puffs and similar in sound to the exhaust of a powerful engine. Monument Geyser and the famous Paint Pots, with their various and vivid hues, are near by. Norris Geyser Basin is the next in order. It is the oldest basin in the park, the hottest and most dangerous for pedestrians. To the right is Mammoth Geyser; when at rest a peep may be had into its gaping throat, and its blood-chilling gurgle can be distinctly heard. Yellowstone Lake is twenty-five miles from Fire Hole Basin. The altitude of this lake is 7,788 feet. It is thirty miles long and ten to fifteen wide, with numerous islands. The Natural Bridge of Rock spans Bridge Creek at a height of forty feet and affords carriage room. Down the river twelve miles is Devil's Den ; east of this is Mud Volcano. Brimstone Mountain is three miles below. Here pure sulphur can be shoveled up by the wagon-load. The Upper Falls of the Yellowstone are reached by an easy trail. Here the rapids narrow to less than 100 feet, and the overhanging rocks press so closely together that a bridge could be easily thrown across. The water eddies and cascades, and then flies downward 397 feet, while the grandest canon of the world stretches away 1,500 feet below. The mind cannot grasp Grand Canon ; words, cannot paint it ; it glows with a life of its own, and with colors of its own, or born of the sun and the spray. Tower Falls and Canon are twenty miles from this charming spot. Specimen Mountain is forty miles from Fire Hole Basin. It is covered with agate, once wood, stone snakes and fishes, with crystals and petrified roots, while the view from the summit is sublime. And this is Yellowstone National Park. Words cannot convey a proper realization of its grandeur and magnificence. Nowhere else in America are there such superb views as the park affords ; nowhere else such an abundance of finny game ; nowhere else such myriads of wild fowl ; nowhere else such a delightful camping place or more perfect weather. THE GEYSERS, nE ; A-' >'.■£ NATIONAL PARK — reached uh 'le Union Pacific Systen (68) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 69 This route, with Fire Hole Basin as a centre, brings the tourist near the leading attractions. From Fire Hole Basin — The Falls of the Madison are six miles ; Foot of Madison Canon, eighteen miles ; Falls and Caiion of the Gibbon, ten miles ; Monument Geyser, eighteen miles ; Midway Geyser Basin, or " Hell's Half Acre," three miles ; Upper Geyser Basin, eight miles ; Yellowstone Lake, twenty-five miles; Yellowstone Falls and Caiion, thirty-two miles. Remember this route, via the Union Pacific from either Council Bluffs or Kansas City, via Cheyenne, Green River, Granger, and Pocatello, to Beaver Canon, and thence via stage to Fire Hole Basin. 'V ' (70) IDAHO POINTS. PA HO is an Indian word, meaning "Gem of the Mountains." The Territory is imperial in extent, its area of 83,000 square miles being greater than that of New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire combined. It is 410 miles long, and its extreme width in the south is 257 miles. The white population prior to 1850 comprised mostly trappers and missionaries, its actual settlement beginning only in i860 with the discovery of gold. It was organized as a Territory March 3, 1863, and admitted to the Union as a State July 3, 1890. The mineral fields of Idaho are among the largest in the world, and nestling among its mountain ranges are countless valleys, affording a vast area of fertile agricultural and grazing lands. POCATELLO. This town is on the Portland Main Line of the Union Pacific, at the junction with the Utah and Northern Branch, 153 miles from Ogden, Utah, and 244 miles from Green River. Its elevation is 4,466 feet above sea-level. The Utah &: Northern Branch stretches off north to Beaver Caiion (where stage connection from the Yellowstone National Park is made), Butte, Garrison, and Helena, and to Ogden, Salt Lake City, and Garfield Beach, on the shores of Great Salt Lake. Pocatello is a lively little town of some 2,000 people, and growing rapidly. Here the division headquarters and machine shops of the railway are located. The climate is cool and bracing. The country is broken and rugged, but there are pleasant, fertile valleys, and the Fort Hall Indian Reservation, in which Pocatello is situated, is a beautiful stretch of country. The American Falls are located on the Snake River, which is crossed by the Union Pacific at American Falls Station. The Union Pacific Railway crosses the Snake River on a bridge more than six hundred feet in length, and carried directly over the American Falls, so that the traveler can look full upon the rushing waters, as, white with foam, they roar upon the rocks and disappear beneath the arches of the bridge. (71) 72 WESTERN RESORTS These falls are described by Irving in his " Bonneville." The banks of the river, for a considerable distance both above and below the falls, have a volcanic character ; masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another ; the water makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling through narrow channels or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges of basaltic columns. Captain Bonneville in his route missed the stupendous falls, now called the Great Shoshone, but these excited his admiration, and were it not for the mar- vels of that greater neighbor, these would still be the feature of all the country round. Looking northward, the Three Buttes of Lost River are seen lifted above the level expanse, and, somewhat to the westward, the steep, jagged out- lines of the lofty Saw Tooth Range. Below the falls the banks are steep, but with an occasional alcove of grassy meadow, a growth of cedars covering the tops, not large, but very venerable in years and appearance. Trout fishing is remarkably good both up and down the stream. Just below the bridge on the west side, a large spring gushes forth, and after forming a broad, shallow pool, winds off into the river. When the river waters are high, the up-coming trout find their way into this pool, which is, therefore, a splendid place to cast the fly. From Shoshone Station, on the mam line of the Union Pacific, there is a branch running to Bellevue, Hailey, and Ketchum, the principal towns of the famous Wood River Region. It will pay the tourist to make a digression from the through line to Portland, in order to visit this section, which possesses one of the richest silver mines in the world, and is as yet but little explored. It has a fine climate and plenty of game. Shoshone Station has a population of 2,000, and fair accommodations for the traveler. From this point Great Shoshone Falls are reached by a pleasant stage ride of twenty-five miles. It must be remembered that these falls are the wonder of the North American Continent. HAILEY. Hailey is situated just where Quigley and Croy Gulches unite with the Wood River Valley, the junction affording a fine view in four directions, embracing well-cultivated ranches, and ending with the foothills. The climate is mild and even, and the roads stretching away on all sides are perfect. The mines at Hailey possess much of interest to the tourist, and a good hotel furnishes accom- modations. One and a half miles from Hailey are the famous Hailey Hot Springs. Here will be found an elegant hotel, strictly first-class in every particular, and fitted with all modern appliances and conveniences. The ride or walk thither is very pleasant, leading through a picturesque little valley, and the location, in a lovely glen, in sight of several rich mines, is very pleasing. Large volumes of water, of lOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 73 a temperature of iso"" and containing sulphate of soda, iron, magnesia, sulphur, and other desirable ingredients, are found in scores of springs. Commodious swimming-baths are provided. Many patients have gone to these with chronic cases, believed to be h(5peless, of neuralgia, paralysis, dyspepsia, inflammatory or mercurial rheumatism, and other complaints for which the Arkansas springs are considered a specific, and after a few months of bathing and drinking have left completely restored. The baths are also very popular with those in good health, thousands visiting them annually for the delightfully exhilarating effects of a plunge. The largest hospital of Alturas County is near. A two-mile drive from Hailey takes the tourist to the beautiful valley of Croy Gulch, with an altitude of about 5,300 feet. The Bolton Hot Springs, five miles from Hailey, are also very efficacious in relieving and curing rheumatism. Bellevue, five miles south of Hailey, is a pretty little town. KETCHUM. Ketchum, a rapidly growing town of about 2,000 to 3,000 people, lies thir- teen miles north of Hailey, and is beautifully situated at the head of the Wood River Valley. At this point, Wood River is as clear as crystal, and rich in the finest of mountain trout. The vicinity surrounding affords good hunting, and, elk and bear abound. The mines round about Ketchum are large, and will well repay inspection. The Guyer Hot Springs, two miles by stage from Ketchum, are noted for their medicinal waters, and are of high repute throughout the neighboring country. There are many objects of interest, both for the tourist and pleasure seeker, in and about Ketchum. The scenery is beautiful, and the climate all that could be desired. BOISE CITY. From Shoshone station, passing westward, the next town of importance is Boise City, which is now reached from Nampa on the Union Pacific, via the Idaho Central. Boise City is nineteen miles from Nampa and has an elevation of 2,885 f^^t- It has a population of about 6,000, has good hotel accommoda- tions, and is a point of interest to the tourist. Boise City is the largest, wealthiest and most attractive town in the territory, with good schools and pleasant homes. It is in the centre of the Idaho fruit belt. A great many medi- cinal springs are to be found within the immediate neighborhood of Boise City, easy of access, and possessing many charms both of water and scenery. GUYER HOT SPRINGS. This romantic little mountain resort is situated about two miles from the town of Ketchum, Idaho, on the Wood River Branch of the Union Pacific, seventy 74 WESTERN RESORTS miles from Shoshone. Regular hacks run to and fro from the springs, in con- nection with the branch trains. The springs are comparatively unknown out- side of Idaho, but are destined to become famous for the well-known medicinal qualities of the waters and the great natural beauty of the place. The springs, about fifteen in number, gush out from the mountain side intensely hot, and are conveyed a short distance by pipe to the bath-house, where there are two large plunge baths, and quite a number of single rooms with tubs. The waters are good for all nervous complaints, rheumatism, skin and blood affec- tions. This place is much resorted to by tourists and invalids. It is a beautiful, quiet mountain retreat. The accommodations for guests are first-class, and in addition to the hotel, there are bath-houses, bowling-alleys, croquet and tennis grounds, swings, band-stands, and dancing-platforms — everything, in short, to make a visit pleasant. SODA SPRIN(;S. The Soda Springs are located on the main line of the Union Pacific, and are within a stone's throw of the railway station bearing the same name. They are in Bingham County, Idaho, sixty-eight miles east of Pocatello, in the depres- sion of the Wasatch Mountains. Their altitude is 5,780 feet above sea-level, with snowy mountains perpetually in sight. Ages ago the Indians sought these springs because they discovered that the waters were a sovereign remedy for many of their ills, and that something about the air and the water gave them at least in part, what Ponce de Leon dreamed of finding, a fountain of water which had within it the elements to insure to those who drank the boon of eternal youth. So through the centuries the Indians held their treasure, until civilization claimed them for her own. The waters of these springs are charged with bicarbonate of soda, bicar- bonate of potash, chloride of sodium and potash, sulphate of magnesia, bicar- bonate of magnesia, lime alumina, silica, carbonate of iron, free carbonic acid gas, and a multitude of other ingredients. They are a specific for the cure of all manner of indigestion, kidney troubles, even up to advanced symptoms of Bright's disease, and diabetes, dropsy, and a thousand kindred ills. Of the tens of millions of people who inhabit the United States east of the Rocky Mountains, probably not one in a thousand has ever heard of Soda Springs, Idaho. Probably not one in ten thousand has any idea of their rare medicinal properties, and not one in a hundred thousand reajizes that in com- parison with them all the famous spas of the Old World sink into insignificance. They take away all appetite for spirituous liquors, and the water is the most pleasant for table use that has ever been found. Fremont's account of the excellence of these springs will be found in his official reports. In 1850, Mormon explorers traversing the country reported FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 75 the marvels of the springs, and later on, the chiefs of the Mormon Church visited the place, and Brigham Young solemnly blessed them. But, despite the virtues of the water, backed by the blessing of Brigham Young, Soda Springs remained an out-of-the-way place, little frequented and little known, until the Union Pacific was built from Green River and Granger to Portland, Oregon, which line runs directly by the springs, where now Pullman palace cars land passengers from all portions of the country. These springs are within fifty hours' ride of Council Bluffs or Kansas City. One of the chief inducements which decided the company to build the line was to open these springs to the public. Last year the Soda"" Springs Company was organized and began bottling the water, which, by a new process, retains all its pleasant and medicinal properties; and this water is now on sale throughout the east and west. The climate of the springs is as wonderful as the water. The topography of the country is interesting; the springs cover a large area, and those who desire to, can spend the summer there, camping out. The water, the air and the sky are free, and their virtues, like those of the Master, go out to all who are able to touch so much as the hem of their robes. The days in the summer are warm, while the nights are invariably cool enough for blankets. The sur- rounding country abounds in fine hunting, while the Blackfoot Creek, ten miles away, reached by a natural road, supplies the best trout fishing in the West. These springs are readily reached from the east and west by the Union Pacific, and from the north and south by the Utah & Northern branch of the Union Pacifio, and they will soon be recognized as one of the most wonderful sanitariums in the world. Good accommodations can be had at the Idenha Hotel, which is managed by the Pacific Hotel Company. Tourists and health and pleasure seekers will be amply repaid by a visit to these wonderful springs. THE GREAT SHOSHONE FALLS OF THE SNAKE RIVER. These falls are readily reached by a stage ride of twenty-five miles from Shoshone Station, on the Union Pacific. The tourist takes this ride in a stage, or by private conveyance. The road is good and across a desert that is no pretense. No streams or springs gladden its barren surface, broken only by grassless knolls and blocks of lava, over which the horses fairly fly, the down- ward impulse of one hill carrying them up the next. The question is often asked, where all of the lava over which the stage rolls comes from, as there are no volcanic mountains for hundreds of miles. The whole area was once a simmering mass, that being submerged, resulted in many curious fractures, into some of which an article dropped will go clinking from side to side until the noise dies away, apparently without bottom being reached. It is bREAI bHOSHONE FALLS, IDAHO — .eached -la the Union Pacific Systen (76-) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 77 in such a crevice that the Lost River disappears never to be seen again. The Snake River is indicated by no sign, when all at once from the edge of a vast chasm, smooth between stupendous walls, it is seen flowing hundreds of feet below. What power has wrought this sculpture ? It does not seem possible that water, even in untold ages, could work into the lava and granite, leaving the pillared heights to testify to its work. The roar of the falls is heard, and, picking its way down the slope, the four-in-hand pauses within earshot of the solemn music, and the baptism of the spray. Having arrived in the evening, it is well to rest in a luxurious bed and await the revelation of sunlight. It comes like a gleam of intelligence, passing over the mighty cafion. The walls, rising hundreds of feet, catch the glint before it reaches the bottom of the gorge and the river, and from height to height the beams of the morning flash signals. There are no mountains by which to judge altitude, but a drop out of the world seems to be taken. The overwhelming massiveness of the gorge baffles all eye-measure of the stupendous rift, out of which a climb would be impossible. The close-pressing lava towers are as sombre as a prison-house. After breakfast a boat is found in the little willow-fringed bayou and launched upon the open river — which here broadens to a lake — but silent, stern, and powerful the cur- rent sweeps along. That cloud of steam ahead rises from Shoshone Falls, and that ceaseless clamor is the great voice of its waters. There is an easy trail upon landing, which leads through a border of fir, and a rest is taken upon Point Lookout. Just then the sun breaks forth in renewed radiance, and from cliff to cliff there springs a bow as perfect as was ever made glorious in the heavens — an arc of beauteous coloring against a background of glit- tering, beadlike foam tumbling in crystal chaos 220 feet, the circling halo losing its bases in the turmoil and the mist, with an unbroken crescent above. The rock foothold quivers, a gentle bath dews the uncovered head, while the spirit soars as lofty as the illumined spray. There is a spell like that of a nameless melody in the awfulness of the irresistible plunge. Niagara is different, but not superior. Where Niagara is calm, Shoshone is tempestuous ; where Niagara pours over evenly, Shoshone bursts into a mill- ion wild jets, each with a diamond's lustre ; where Niagara is environed by common-place landscapes, Shoshone dashes from between rocks nearly a thousand feet high, stately and time-stained, and its surroundings are weird and supernatural. Seven distinct channels are to be seen forming a number of brilliant falls, before the final grand reunion of the waters, and so united, over they go, to be lost in the swirl of a terrible surge, to riot in an infuriate whirlpool, and to rise soft as the feather of a bird and be touched by the sun to splendor. Locomotive Cave is one of the wonders of the place. It is reached after leaving the vaulted dome and by climbing along the face of the wall near the water. Stepping inside, one hears a sound similar to the exhaust of a monster (78) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 79 locomotive. The waves of sound are quick and powerful, and the sensation is as if one were standing by the side of a large locomotive whose wheels were slipping on the rails. Only a stone's throw from the shore, Eagle Rock has never been touched by man, but on the topmost crest an eagle hovers with wrathful mien over her young. Standing face toward the falls, on the extreme left is Pulpit Rock ; next, Prospect Point. Cedar, Walgamotts, and Bells are a chain of islands across, the divided flow of the Snake coming between them. Prospect Point and Pulpit Rock overlook Bridal Veil, one of the brightest of the smaller falls. The former is immediately in front of the site selected for the large hotel. Lover's Leap affords one of the finest views. Facing it are the lesser falls and the unbroken front of the great one — 950 feet from shore to shore — unbroken because no rocks mar its contour, and yet broken, for it is not a glassy sheet of water that makes the leap ending in glistening foaming spray. Looking aghast you cling to the withered pine marking the spot where the lovers fell 750 feet in front of the maddened, malignant torrent, devilish in the delight it takes in sweeping with a rush which nothing but the eternal rocks could withstand, torn and tossed into billions of sparkling threads with a constant play of prismatic hues changing quicker than thought, half enveloped in its own mist, and then the wind carrying that aw^^y, leaving it unobscured, in sublimity unmatched and indescribable. A long, winding trail leads past the Natural Bridge and the Devil's Flues, the last apertures reaching down to the level of the stream below the falls. Their origin is a mystery. The trail is half hidden in luxuriant shrubbery, the shallow soil being constantly drenched with spray. It is no place for the lame, halt, or blind. Each eye must be open, each hand and foot alert for a hold. The scramble is for 850 feet. From below, there is such a change from the point of inspection, that the treat is entirely new. Here the opposite wall, black and frowning, is over a thousand feet sheer. A thousand feet means more in such a place than two thousand among the mountains. The vaulted dome is near by. It is made by the throwing to- gether of huge rocks. It is a conical chamber 175 feet in height, and with an atmosphere cooling as a draught from the fountain. From the top there is a steady sprinkle of water — a shower-bath which, falling year after year, has worn a hollow, known as Diana's Bath. Surely a goddess could covet no place more charming. The water fills this to overflowing. It is nearly ice cold. Drink, it freely. It is nectar. The sides of the chamber are wet, and green with moss. High out of reach are brilliant festoons of flowers growing from the rock. It is an ideal place to lunch, and in itself a won- der. It is now time to go back, re-cross the river, or row up to Twin Falls. The two sets of falls are three miles apart. A portion of the way a boat may be used and a trail completes the journey. There is some good, honest perspira- (80) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 81 tion attendant upon the row to Clark's Point, beyond the Devil's Corral. The latter is an inclosure with only one entrance. Clark's Point is a huge fortress jutting into the stream. It is a curious place to be, in that long defile, and it is not designed for a thoroughfare. The ride seems short, but the walk does not. An acute ear detects a suppressed roar coming jointly from above and below. The waves of sound from Great Shoshone and from the Upper Falls meet and mingle somewhere in the gorge. Finally the falls are reached, and standing above them is recompense enough for all the toil. The view along the caiion in itself is worth a journey of miles. There is a frightful snakiness about the river, an appalling strength as it enters the rapids, and a glorying in this strength as it leaps below. The stream is divided by a tower of solid rock into two channels, across which an easy toss would carry a stone. All that mass of water, which three miles farther is so magnificent with its frontage of 950 feet, is here condensed into these narrow spaces, descending through them 180 feet, so that even these falls, secondary though they be to Great Shoshone Falls, are higher than the far-famed Niagara. A constant vapor arises from them, and when the air is still, bedews the rocks far higher than the upper level. Yet, for all its great height, it is the superior height of the rocks which makes the greatest impression. At the crest of the walls there is no grade to correspond with the sinking of the river, so that the chasm gets deeper and deeper, until, beyond the Great Shoshone Falls, it is stupen- dous. The float down the river is something to be always remembered. To sit and calmly glide, to dip in the cool stream and drink, to watch the serried columns of lava pass in review, and listen to the song of the eddies, is a pleasure. Night is coming on, and the shadows begin to stretch darkly across. The gloom makes the rocks look more weird and supernatural, and the motion and the twilight belong to the realm of the mystic. The canon is a wonderful whispering gallery. A whistle awakes a thousand echoes, and to a shout, each castle perched above gives back a loud response. The notes of a cornet are taken up and repeated fainter and more faint till they die away in melody. And so challenging the rocks to reply to a tune, and every challenge being ac- cepted and hurled back with treble force, the notes are again repeated far away, long after the air is finished. After supper a walk is taken to Prospect Point, and, as if in greeting, just then the mist changes from its billowy white to a rainbow mass, which the lunar rays make softly brilliant, and which seem to fade away in farewell as the moon is lost under shifting clouds. No one can inspect this place thoroughly in a day. The day is simply a hint. The Great Shoshone Falls demand a d iv the Upper Falls another, and the canon still another. 82 WESTERN RESORTS As yet the surroundings of the falls are as wild and untouched as when the pilgrims for Astoria, wandering through the wilderness years ago, marveled at their great beauty. And such is the Great Shoshone Falls, one of the greatest points of interest in the world. Note. — For further imformation, see "Sights and Scenes in Idaho and Montana," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and con- taining minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in those Territories. The Union Pacific Railway will sell, at greatly reduced rates during the summer season, a series of excursion tickets called "Shoshone Tours," cover- ing the principal points in Idaho and Montana, using Pocatello and Shoshone, Idaho, as central points. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the tickets. Tickets will be good thirty days from date of sale. First Shoshone Tour: From Pocatello to Great Shoshone Falls and return to Shoshone Station; from Shoshone Station to Hailey and Guyer Hot Springs and return to Shoshone Station, and from Shoshone Station to Boise City and return to Pocatello. From Pocatello to Soda Springs and return. From Pocatello, via Beaver Cafion, to Yellowstone Second Shoshone Tour: Third Shoshone Tour: National Park and return. Fourth Shoshone Tour From Pocatello to Butte and Helena and return. MONTANA POINTS. ONTANA is an Indian word— " Tay-a-be-shock-up ^•— and means " Country of the Mountains." It is probable that the Sieur de la Verendrye and his brother were the first visitors to these rocky fastnesses in 1743-4. This region was included in the Louisiana purchase of 1803, and the famous Lewis and Clarke expedition explored the country in 1804-5. Gold was discovered in what is now Deer Lodge County in 1852, and again in 1856 and 1858, but it was not until July, 1862, that the Bannack mines were discovered. In 1S63 gold was found at Alder Gulch, 80 miles east of Bannack, and here Virginia City, the first Territorial capital, sprang into exist- ence. Alder Gulch has yielded over sixty million dollars of gold since discovery. Gold was found where the beautiful city of Helena now stands. Montana was formerly a part of Idaho, and was organized as a territory in 1864 ; she received 2,000 square miles from Dakota in 1870, and was admitted to the Union November 8, 1889. Her area is 146,000 square miles. The Territory extends from east to west about 550 miles, and 275 miles from north to south. Montana possesses an immense area of very rich agricultural land, and stands fifth in the production of gold and silver. Leaving Green River and Granger on the main line of the Union Pacific through Soda Springs and Pocatello, and thence from Pocatello north on the Utah & Northern branch, and passing the Three Tetons and Beaver Canon, where connection by stage lines is made for the Yellowstone National Park a few miles bring the tourist within the confines of Montana. Passing the water line, Red Rock Station is the first point of interest. Here the scenery is wild and there is a peculiar formation of points of jagged land, the highest of which is Red Rock, which juts up some 500 feet, and may be seen in either direction for twenty miles. Then through Dillon, which is in Beaver Head Valley, and one of the thriving towns of Montana, Silver Bow is reached. From Silver Bow the Montana Union Railroad, an auxiliary line of the Union Pacific, branches off, one spur running to Butte City, another through Stuart to Garrison, where connection is made for Helena, and still another from Stuart to Anaconda. (83) 84 WESTERN RESORTS BUTTE CITY. Butte City, with an elevation of 5,482 feet above sea-level, is the largest mining camp in the world, not even excepting Leadville, Colorado. Standing next to the Lake Superior region in the production of copper, and first of all in silver output, attention has been drawn to it from all over the world. Butte has a population of some 30,000 people, is the possessor of fine hotels and all the modern conveniences of a large city. It is the greatest silver producer, not alone of Montana, but of the Rocky Mountain mineral belt. It is situated on a gentle slope and is surrounded by rugged and beautiful scenery, and takes its name from the point known as the Big Butte, located just north of the original town. It is ten miles to the main range of the Rockies, but towering foot-hills have formed the basin where Butte flourishes. From Butte City, points of inter- est in Silver Bow, Jefferson and Madison Counties can be readily reached. Butte is a, healthy place, blessed with a pure and bracing atmosphere, and presents many attractions to the tourist and health and pleasure seeker. ANACONDA. From Stuart, the Montana Union has a branch to Anaconda. Here is located the largest smelting works in the world, the consumption of coal alone for these works being 300 tons per day and the yield from copper ore is enormous. From Stuart, the pretty little town of Deer Lodge is but a short distance, and is a point of much interest. GARRISON. Further on is Garrison, a place of note, being the junction of the Montana Union Division of the Union Pacific with the Northern Pacific, and formerly the transfer point of passengers going to Portland. But since the opening of the Union Pacific, the route is via Huntington, which is the direct line to Port- land; the Garrison Route is used for Helena business. HELENA. Helena is the capital of Montana, with an elevation of 3,930 feet above the sea-level, and a population of about 20,000. Helena is also a mining camp, and is reached over the Union Pacific via Garrison or Butte. It is beautifully situated; Fort Benton to the north, Bozeman to the east, Virginia City to the south, with Butte City and Deer Lodge to the west. It has fine hotels, clubs, banks, newspapers, street cars — in fact everything that contributes to city life. There are many attractions for the tourist. Mt. Helena is to be climbed, and the view from its summit well repays the labor. There are pleasant drives, one FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 85 of the most popular leading to Hot Springs, four miles away. Prickly Pear Canon presents attractive features. "The Gate of the Mountains," where the Missouri River bursts through, infinitely surpasses the Hudson Highlands, and for loo miles down-stream there is a succession of pillared hills, castles, eroded stone, caves, and of falls. East of Helena are the White Sulphur Springs, Hell Gate Canon, and the Devil's Watch Tower. Northwest is Flat Lake, ten by twenty-eight miles, and the Twin Cascades, Elizabeth and Alice, falling 2,000 feet. Note. — For further information see '* Sights and Scenes in Idaho and Mon- tana," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and contain- ing minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in those Terri- tories. ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON— on the Union Pacific Systen (86) OREGON POINTS. -flCv^'ki l/'^^il~l'^^ name Oregon is derived from a Spanish word which means ^^^ R^^j I "wild thyme," and probably arose from the abundance of that herb which the early explorers found there. Oregon seems to have been first visited by a Spanish navigator in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down its shores in 17 78; but the Columbia River is believed to have been first made known to the civilized world by Captain Gray, of Boston, Mass., in 1791. He sighted the river late that year, and in May, 1792, he ventured up the stream a few miles and named it after his thip — the Columbia. From this time onward it was visited by fur-traders, both British and American, and the Lewis and Clarke exploring party spent the winter of 1805-6 at the mouth of the Columbia. The English and American fur-traders held joint possession of Oregon and fought unceasingly until the treaty of 1846 gave to the United States all the country below 40 degrees north. The Fur Company's post at Astoria was founded in 181 1. The tide of immigration finall}' set in during 1839. Oregon was organized as a Territory in 1848, and admitted to the Union as a State February 14, 1859. The State has an area of nearly 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 wide; it has 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land and 10,000,000 acres of forest. Oregon has nothing to lose b}- a close inspection of what she has to offer in the way of climate, productions, scenery, and pleasure resorts. Within its im- mense area of 96,000 square miles all that is desirable in the make-up of a great and prosperous State is to be found, and its wonderful resources augur well for its future. From Nampa, Idaho, the Union Pacific passes through the towns of Cald- well, Payette, Ontario, and Weiser, skirts along the boundary line of Idaho ■and Oregon, following the Snake River, which it crosses and re-crosses, first in Idaho, then in Oregon, until Huntington, just within Oregon, is reached, where it starts directly across the State. Baker City, Union, and La Grande, import- ant towns beyond Huntington, are passed. Just beyond La Grande, in the (87) (88) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 89 Grande Ronde Valley, comes a passage in the Blue Mountains, replete with the dark beauty of the pine and the rippling brook and waterfall. THE GRANDE RONDE VALLEY. The Grande Ronde Valley presents many points of interest to the tourist, and a sojourn here will amply repay the visitor. It is one of the most fertile valleys of the Pacific slope. The Grande Ronde River flows in from the Blue Mountains, and follows an extremely crooked channel through the valley, and here fish and game abound. Mountain streams and copious springs break forth on every hand, converting portions of the valley into a beautiful meadow. There are lovely vistas of scenery all along the line. The tourist will note the beautiful outline of the mountains around Baker City; the Swiss-like valley of Powder River; the clear and vital air of the Blue Mountains, a range which closely resembles the Alleghanies, and the exquisite views along Meacham Creek and the Umatilla River. Leaving La Grande, and passing over the summit at Meacham, on through the Umatilla Reservation, we reach Pendleton, one of the brightest, busiest cities in Eastern Oregon. Here a branch line of the Union Pacific system reaches toward the north to the far-famed PALOUSE COUNTRY AND SPOKANE FALLS. The great plains of the Columbia, stretching away to the northward from the river, are, according to competent authorities, the richest basaltic lands in the United States. The soil seems to possess simply marvelous properties; the crops grown exceed belief; the harvests are rainless; the climate subdued and tempered by the soft Chinook wind, well-nigh reaches perfection. The climate of this new empire of the Pacific Northwest is, as yet, but little understood by dwellers in the East. The winters in this region are very nearly the same temperature as those of the Southern Gulf States, while the summers are cool. This immunity from heat is accounted for by high latitude, and the fact that the prevailing wind, in midsummer, is from the north. The soft south wind, the "Chinook," is born of the great Japan current which breaks all along these shores, and this breath of summer is wafted inland all during the winter months. Both these currents of air partake of the nature of trade winds, and are constant and unfailing in their appointed time. So steadily do these winds blow that there are no excessively hot days in summer nor any bitter days of cold in the winter. The road runs through thriving towns — Walla Walla, Colfax, Farmington and Rockford, where a detour may be made to Coeur d'Alene Lake, one of the loveliest sheets of water on the continent — until it reaches its terminal at Spo- kane Falls, the young giant of the North. This prosperous city of nearly (90) FOR HKALTH AND PLEASURE. 91 25,000 people was almost totally destroyed by the appalling fire of August, 1889, but has been rebuilt stronger, better and more beautiful than before. Fine business blocks, palatial hotels, churches and theaters have risen as if by magic, and the city leaps forward again in her race, the stouter-hearted for her terrible affliction. Resuming the journey from Pendleton over the Cascade Range, the tourist reaches Celilo. A short distance above Celilo is " Hell Gate " whirlpool, so called from its resemblance to the famous New York Hell Gate. At Celilo is the commencement of " The Dalles" of the Columbia, a stretch of river reach- ing fourteen miles to Dalles Station. THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBL\. The Columbia is navigable for 275 miles above Celilo, and then the Snake River offers a clear course for 300 miles up as far as Lewiston. The fourteen miles from Celilo to Dalles Station are simply rapids. A little way above Dalles Station is the gorge which is so often termed "The Dalles." The chasm occu- pies about two and a half miles out of the fourteen comprised in the distance from ("elilo to Dalles Station. The river above is from 2,000 to 2,500 feet wide, and in flood time is often a mile in width, but for this two and a half miles the great volume of the stream is compressed into a narrow cleft about 130 feet across. During a "June rise" the water has risen here 126 feet — it is no un- common thing for it to mark sixty and seventy feet rise every year. The word "Dalles" is somewhat of a misnomer. It is a French word, "Dalle" signifying "flagstone," or "slab," or, as some translate it, "plates." The significance of the name is found in the oval or square-shaped stones, "flagstones," or "plates" of basaltic rock in the river and valley. In the fa^oi's of the French hunter.s, "Dalles" seems to have been 'applied always to a nar- row gorge or canon, and so the name has stood for this part of the Columbia River. So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea of the tourist is of a surging flood, of unknown depth rushing like a mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather a placid stream with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and suddenly dropping to 100 feet of water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to three feet, according to season, and this tidal influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. At " The Dalles " Station the tourist may leave the train and take the steamer down the Columbia for Portland. It is eighty-eight miles by rail to the city, and .about no miles by river. The day's run down this lordly stream is a never- to-be-forgotten experience. (82) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 93 From '-The Dalles" Station the noble river, surging and whirling to the sea, breaking the image rocks into wave fragments, occupies the mind of the beholder. The Columbia is one of the world's great rivers, affording a water- way that is navigable for traffic for over 1,200 miles. Upon it, for 100 miles from its mouth, the largest ocean steamers ply with safety. It is Oregon's artery, throbbing with trade. Its largest tributary is the Willamette, draining the valley of the same name, and being naviagble for vessels of any size to Port- land, and for light river boats for over 150 miles further. There can be noth- ing more inspiring than the ride from " The Dalles " down the gorge of the Columbia through the Cascade Mountains, with the shining river on one side and the towering battlements of the shore on the other. The scene is one of continued magnificence. The grottoes, in which are moss-garlanded cascades almost hidden under the dense foliage, are most inviting and beautiful. Twelve miles from " The Dalles " we pass Memaloose Isle, the ancient burial place of the Chinook Indians. A tall, white shaft springs from the rocky bosom of the island, marking the last resting place of A-^ictor Trevet, one of Oregon's eccentric pioneers, and a firm friend of the Indians. In deference to his oft- repeated request during his lifetime, his remains were brought from San Fran- cisco, where he died, and placed among his red brethren on the " Isle of the Dead," as Memaloose signifies in the Chinook language. The gorge proper of the Cascade Mountains, through which the Columbia flows, is reached about twenty miles down from " The Dalles," the hills near that station being rather low, but for the next thirty miles the panorama is a perpetually shifting and shining splendor. The cascades are fifty miles from ''The Dalles." The river-bed is filled with gigantic boulders and huge mis- shapen stones, and for six miles the mighty stream lashes itself into a fury over these obstructions. The Indian legend is to the effect that once there was a bridge across the river here, formed by nature, and that Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams quarreled and threw stones at one another, and that in this conflict of giants the bridge was destroyed. We leave the steamer at the upper Cascade and make the portage of six miles by narrow-gauge railway, re-embarking at the lower Cascade where the Portland boat is in waiting. This second section of the Upper Columbia is magnificent beyond description. Attention is called to the beautiful islands above the Cascades and to Wind Mountain, a bare peak which seems to have been stripped of every particle of grass, shrub or tree. There are scores of small falls lining the river: " Horse Tail " first we meet; then "Multnomah," the beautiful, a slender veil of spray falling 850 feet perpendic- ularly from the cliff above — a delicious bit of fairyland ; then "Bridal Veil" and "Oneonta," all clear and dashing, and banked by a wealth of moss. The lofty summits over which they pour are reproduced in the river, and made doubly impressive. For miles upon miles this wild scenery continues, and a (94) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 95 thousand times the tourist thinks the chmax has been reached, only to acknowl- edge later that something grander has developed. Just below Oneonta Falls there is a beautiful glen. It is inaccessible even to the most venturesome climber, and nestles there securely under solemn crags ; but the charm is in the coloring — the air has a peculiar glowing blue tint, a misty web of beauty, caught, perhaps, from sky and river and reflected there. Ne.xt comes "Castle Rock," rising i,ooo feet sheer from the water's edge; '• Rooster- Rock," a bold and impressive pinnacle anchored amid stream; "Cape Horn," towering up 500 feet, and those twin shafts, massive and grand, the " Pillars of Hercules." Along the River Rhine, the Rhone or the Hudson, there is nothing that will compare with the stately palisades of the Columbia, with their cool recesses, kept sunless by the overhanging rocks, and watered by the melting snows of their own summits. From the mouth of the Willamette a splendid view can be had of Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helen's, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Ranier, where the scenery surpasses anything of its kind in the world. From Hood River Station above the Cascades the traveler will find good stages to convey him over an excellent road to the base of Mt. Hood, twenty-five miles distant. The view from Mt. Hood is simply incomparable, and the trip from Hood River Station to Mt. Hood is made through some of the most extraordinary scenery in the world. Mr. E. McD. Johnstone speaks of Mt. Hood as follows: " The view from the summit of Hood is one of unsurpassed grandeur, and probably includes in its range a greater number of high peaks and vast mountain chains, grand forests and mighty rivers than any other mountain in North America. Looking across the Columbia, the ghostly pyramids of Adams and St. Helen, with their con- necting ridges of eternal snow, first catch the eye ; then comes the silent, lofty Ranier, with the blue waters of Puget Sound and the rugged Olympia Mount- ains for a background ; and away to the extreme north (nearly to H. B. M.'s dominions), veiled in earth mists and scarcely discernible from the towering cumuli that inswathe it, lies Mt. Baker. Looking south over Oregon the view embraces the Three Sisters (all at one time), Jefferson, Diamond Peak, Scott, Pit, and, if it be a favorable day and you have a good glass, you may see Shasta, 250 miles away. The westward view is down over the lower coast range, the Umpqua, Calapooya, and Rogue River Mountains, with their sunny upland valleys, and away out over the restless ocean. In the opposite direction, across the illimitable plains of Eastern Oregon, to the Azure Blue Mountains ; down, almost to the foot of this mountain, 'rolls the Columbia,' through the narrow, rugged gorge of ' The Dalles,' 250 miles of its winding course being visible. The entire length of the great Willamette Valley, with its pleasant, prosperous towns and gently flowing river, its broad, fertile farms, like rich mosaics, with borders of dark-green woodlands, is spread out in great beauty under the. (96) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 07 western slope of Mt. Hood." And next, Fort Vancouver, eighteen miles from Portland, is passed, a post well known in history, where Grant and Sheridan were once stationed. Six miles below the fort the Willamette swells the Colum- bia, and twelve miles up this lovely river brings us just at nightfall to the light and warmth and comfort of cheery Portland. PORTLAND. It was as far back as 1843 that the first settlers came to make a home here on the banks of the Willamette River, and the city of Portland was incor- porated in 185 I. It has steadily grown to metropolitan dimensions, and a pop- ulation of over 65,000 souls. It is twelve miles from Portland to the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia, and ninety-eight miles from the Pacific Ocean. The length of the city parallel with the river is about seven and one- half miles ; two-thirds of this frontage is occupied with wharves from one to three stories in height. The western boundary is formed by a chain of hills about one mile distant, with a gentle slope toward the river, thus assuring natural drainage. The view from any one of the hundred elevations west of the city is very beautiful. There are long rows of stately mansions that skirt the foothills, many of them costing over $100,000. The business portion comes next, extending to the water front, with its massive brick and stone blocks, towering church spires and handsome public buildings. There is added to this the spectacle of a great navigable river (over a half-mile in width), literally dotted with palatial steamboats, magnificent steamships, and large ocean-going vessels which are daily arriving and departing for all parts of the world. Directly across the river, one-half mile distant, and connected with Portland by two bridges and three ferry lines, is the flourishing city of East Portland. To the north of, and adjoining, the last named city is the growing town of A-lbina. The two cities are practically part of the city proper; so much so, in fact, that a movement is now under way to incorporate the three into one, thus swelling the actual population of Portland to at least 65,000. PORTLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO. From Portland to San Francisco the trip can be made in the iron steamships of the L' nion Pacific, which favorably compare with the best ocean steamers on the Atlantic for safety, speed and comfort ; or by rail over the Mt. Shasta route of the Southern Pacific Company. After the long ride by rail, the ocean voyage makes a pleasing break, the murmur of the ocean breezes, and the rhythmic cadence of the waves as they kiss the sides of the noble ship, form a fitting finale to the overland trip across the continent. CRATER LAKE, OREGON — reached via the Union Pacific System. FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 99 PORTLAND TO ALASKA. To the tourist Alaska presents many points of interest. Its curious people, wonderful scenery, extinct volcanoes, magnificent glaciers, hot springs, sulphur laices, and boiling marshes will repay the tourist for making the trip. The ver- dure, flowers and birds of this Northland dispel the popular illusion of its frigid temperature. The trip to Alaska via steamer from Portland will be something to think of in after years. PORTLAND TO PUGET SOUND. The magnificent region of the Sound may be reached by the tourist either by rail, the distance being 150 miles to Tacoma, or by steamer from Portland to Victoria, B. C, there connecting with the Union Pacific Railway Company's elegant line of boats for Tacoma. This royal realm of beauty is beginning to be appreciated by travelers. The voyage from Portland on the calm Pacific, through the stately Straits of Fuca and glorious Puget Sound, is charming beyond description. There is complete immunity from that dread scourge sea-sickness ; the steamers are elegantly furnished and equipped, and the bold, impressive, yet harmonious scenery rimming these noble sheets of water is not equalled on the American continent. The points touched are Victoria ; then the bustling "city of destin}-," Port Townsend ; Seattle, the sturdy; and Tacoma, a beautiful city located on the upper arm of the Sound. After the Columbia, there is no trip to compare with this in the Northwest, so complete is the escape from dust and the stifling heat of mid-summer. THE LOWER COLUxMBL^. After the numerous attractions of handsome Portland have been thoroughly gojie over, the many drives and walks accomplished, the beautiful falls of the Willamette visited, twelve miles up the river at Oregon City, there remains a grand exctirsion for the tourist from Portland down the river to Astoria and Ihvaco — the mouth of the Columbia. The Union Pacific Railway Company's steamers on this route are not surpassed in speed, elegance or comfort of every description. A new floating palace, the T. J. Potter, has been added to the fleet, and in August, 18S8, this boat made the run from her dock in Portland to Astoria, a good, long ninety-eight miles, in five hours and thirty minutes. The scenery of the lower river is not so rugged, neither is it so sharply defined. The grand Columbia broadens out into a majestic stream moving slowly to its death in the Pacific, and there is something stately in its measured flow. Small hamlets, villages and towns dot the banks, mammoth salmon canneries on either hand. There is "Coffin Rock," a gruesome-looking affair, and "Saddle Mountain, with its lovely tints, Baker Bay, Clatsop Beach, and Astoria, known of all men for three-quarters of a century. Clatsop Beach is one of the most MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON— on the Union Pacific System. (100) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 101 charming resorts in all Oregon. Leaving the boat at Astoria, the tourist has a drive of sixteen miles through the beautiful lowland country back of the town. At the Beach will be found a first-class hotel affording every needed comfort and convenience. The bathing at Clatsop is unequaled, and the beach is longer than any bit of sea-coast in this part of the State. With the luxurious hotel accommodations provided, and the superior bathing facilities always at hand, Clatsop offers inducements not elsewhere extended to the traveler in pursuit of happiness and solid comfort. Ilwaco is a charming village across the river from Astoria. A miniature railway runs out to the long pier, and passengers step from the boat onto the train and whirl away to the outside beach two miles distant, where one luxuriates in the mild majesty of the Pacific. Secure round- trip tickets and berth.s, sleep on board, and watch the moon rise over the harbor bar. There are satiated old-timers who pronounce this the most luxurious of all the trips offered the tourist out of Portland. The cuisine of these steamers is as fine as any hotel on the coast, and the staterooms, attendance and con- veniences are simply perfect. CRATER LAKE. Crater Lake, Oregon, can be reached from Medford, Oregon, on the Mt. Shasta route of the Southern Pacific Company, and stage line to Ft. Klamath, the military post in the Klamath Indian Reservation. The distance by stage from Medford to Ft. Klamath is about ninety miles, and from Ft. Klamath to Crater Lake about twenty-two miles. Crater Lake is situated in the Oregon National Park, about twenty-two miles north of Ft. Klamath, among the summits of the Cascade Range. It is the crater of a long extinct volcano, and its waters, formerly believed to be fathomless, were found by the measurements of the geological survey to be 4,000 feet deep. The surface of the lake is 6,351 feet above the level of the sea, and its shores rise almost perpendicularly from the water's edge to a height of from 1,000 to over 2,000 feet — that is, to an elevation of from 7,351 to over 8,351 feet above sea-level ; three-fourths the height of Mt. Hood, only 1,000 feet lower than Mt. St. Helen's and 2,000 feet above Mt. Washington. It is oblong in shape, being seven miles long and six miles broad, and covering an area of about forty-two square miles. Out of its abysmal depths rise numerous islands, towering precipitously to enormous heights. Shag Rock is 2,115 feet high, Button Cliff 2,109 f^^t, Llao Rock 2,000 feet, Helio- trope Station 1,965 feet, and Wizard Island towers 845 feet above the surface of the water. It is in many respects the most wonderful body of water in the world. Lake Baikal, in Siberia, is eighty feet deeper, but it is a sea in comparison, covering a space of 54 by 397 miles. 102 WESTERN RESORTS Though it lies on the very ridge of the great Cascade Range, and Mt. Scott, close by towers in snowy majesty to a height of 9,117 feet above the sea, the ascent is easy, and wagons can be driven to its very brmk. The visitor approaching the spot, suddenly emerges from the belt of encircling timber into an amphitheatre of desolation. Huge masses of rocks, lava, cinders, scoria, and pumice stone, lie scattered and piled all around ; rocky pinnacles tower skyward on every hand ; and just beyond rises a semicircle of mountain peaks, from 200 to 1,000 feet high. Advancing a few steps farther, one is suddenly, without warning, on the brink of the abyss, and cautiously peering over its edge, the inky waters of the lake are seen in glassy calm, or in stormy tumult, 2,000 feet below in the very bowels of the mountain. The dizzy walls are scarred, melted, and blackened from the belching floods of flame and molten lava that ages since were vomited up from the Plutonian furnaces of the central earth ; and lying flaf upon the ground, a stone dropped will almost pass from sight before it strikes a projection in the perpendicular wall. It is a sublime, a majestic, an awful — almost a horrible — spectacle, and the head swims with the contemplation of it. It is little wonder that the simple- minded natives believe it to be inhabited by llaos, or devils, and regard a curious glance therein as a profanation. Their traditions teach them that ages ago it was the scene of terrible convulsions — of fiery struggles between warring spirits, and that the conquerors retain possession to this day. Geologists confirm these traditions, in teaching us that the mountain once rose to a height of 10,000 to 20,000 feet, and was a peculiarly active volcano, the peak having been gradually eroded by the violence of the successive eruptions to its present height. The vent of the final eruption was Wizard Island, a regularly conical mountain of cinder, with a cup-shaped top usually filled with snow. There are several descents by which access can be had to the level of the lake, where the visitor may enjoy the strange luxury of a boat-ride over the waters of Jules Verne's "Central Sea," and look up, as it were, through the chimney of the globe, and picture the terrible energies that once found through it a vent, with fire, and smoke and quakings, and vast thunders of torment compared to which the throes of ^-Etna are but pigamy tremors. THE AIT. SHASTA ROUTE. (from PORTLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO.) The Mt. Shasta route is very interesting, and the tourist should see its marvels to fully appreciate the wonders of Oregon and California. This route, through the western portion of Oregon, southward through the northern por- tion of California, 772 miles from Portland to San Francisco, passes through a country fertile in resources, and rich in points of scenic interest. Particularly FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 103 is this true of Northern California, which will in time equal and excel the southern portions of the State in wealth and population ; and the rapid strides this section has been making since the completion of the Mt. Shasta route by the Southern Pacific Company augurs well for its future importance and prosperity. The Mt. Shasta route takes its name from Mt. Shasta, which is situated on its line in California. It is one of the most wonderful mountains in the world, as well as one of the largest. It has a number of peaks : Main Peak, altitude, 14,440; Thumb Rock, 13,000, and Crater Peak, 12,900. The view from the different portions of the mountain is incomparably lovely, and cannot be excelled on the American continent. Other points of interest are Mt. Hood (which is reached by stage from this line of road), Umpqua and Rogue River Mountains. The Rogue River Valley, the Siskiyous, Strawberry Valley, one of the scenic wonders of the Pacific coast, the plains of Northern California, Upper Soda Springs in Sacramento Cafion, Lower Soda Springs, the Sacra- mento River, which rises at the base of Mt. Shasta, and is one of the most beautiful rivers in the world, and Mossbrae Falls, are a few of the wonders presented to the tourist in the trip from Portland to San Francisco via the Mt. Shasta route. Note. — For further information see " Sights and Scenes in Oregon and Washington," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts. The Union Pacific Railway will sell, at greatly reduced rates, a series of excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the tickets. First Columbia Tour : Portland to " The Dalles " by rail, and return by river. Second Columbia Tour : Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach and return by river. Third Columbia Tour : Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by boat and return. Fourth Columbia Tour : Portland to Alaska and return. Fifth Columbia Tour : Portland to San Francisco by boat. (104) THE ALASKAN VOYAGE. ASKA is the largest and most northerly domain owned by any country with possessions on the North American continent. The exploration of its south-eastern coast line by the hardy seamen of England and Russia antedates the Declaration of Independence many years. Scattered over its vast expanse are some of the greatest natural wonders of the world. Its glaciers, its mountains, its archipelagoes of islands, its mighty rivers, are typical in their grandeur and beauty of their birthplace. Among these dwell a primitive race whose history is lost in the shadows of antiquity. Their oral traditions are as vague as the sea mists. They have never wholly relinquished the habits and customs of their barbarous ancestors. In isolated places they use to-day the same household utensils, the same weapons for war and hunting, the same methods of catching and preparing fish (the main source of their food supply) as were habitual to their early progeni- tors. Their canoes are modeled on the same lines and made in the same laborious fashion, with the same kind of crude implements used long ago, and there is certainly nothing more graceful and beautiful as a water vehicle than the Siwash canoes of the southeast coast. Their basket and blanket work is the same now as in the by-gone time. Their present silversmiths, working in malleable metals, are making reproductions in miniature of the carvings on stone and wood, which every leading family possesses and cherishes as its sign-manual of distinction. These are the passports of the Thlinkets' four hundred. In addition to these picturesque people and their handiwork are Alaska's numerous natural productions. Its gold, and silver, and coal, and iron ; its magnificent yellow cedar and other wonderful and valuable forest growths, and its long list of furbearing animals, including the fur seal, the Russian sable, the silver fox, and the sea otter, most valuable of all marketable furs. The native islanders, according to some authorities, called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," which signifies " great country," and the word has been cor- (105) THE BELLE OF SiTKA, ALASKA. 106) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 107 rupted into "Alaska." Mr. Alexander Badlam, of the old California Russia Fur Company, and a high authority on Alaska, says the aboriginal word is " Al-ak-shak," and that this was the term the early voyagers heard applied to the unknown land. This name is found on old German, French and Spanish maps. Captain Cook's atlas of his first voyage m 1778 probably gave the first Saxon spelling and pronunciation. This immense empire, it will be remem- bered, was sold by Russia to the United States October 18, 1867, for $7,200- 000. The country was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. The Spaniards made as far north as Sitka in 1775, '^'"'^ Captain Cook followed in 1776. Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is nearly one-fifth as large as all the other States and Territories combined. It is larger than twelve States the size of New York. The best time to visit Alaska is from June to September. The latter month is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin to grow short. The trip occupies from twelve to twenty days. As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and comfortable clothing for both should be provided. It is cool enough even in July and August for h-eavy wraps during the greater part of the trip. There are no " Palace " hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to remain a trip over there. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the steamer goes, and will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth seeing in southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as Chilcat, say up to about the 59th degree of north latitude. The pleasure is not so much in the stopping as in the going. One is constantly passing through new channels, past new islands opening up new points of interest, until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature is reached. During the past eight years many thousand tourists visited Alaska. To say they were pleased conveys but a faint impression of their enthusiasm. They were delighted — charmed. Ask any of them, it matters not whom ; they all make the same report, and tell the same story of the matchless grandeur of the trip, of the midnight sun, of the placid waters, of the aurora borealis, of the majestic mountains, of the inland seas, of the mighty glaciers, of the thun- dering iceberg plunging into the sea and floating off in its glory of inimitable splendor, of the wealth of fish, timber and minerals, of the biggest quartz mill ever constructed, of the queer customs of the natives, of novel and startling incidents that may well make the trip the object of a lifetime. The Union Pacific System, the original overland route, affords the trav- eler quick, luxurious transit from either Council Bluffs and Omaha or Kan- 108) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 109 sas City to Portland, Oregon. From here the tourist ha.s the choice of two route.s : 1. Take the Ala-ska steamer at Portland, and proceed down the Columbia River to Astoria, thence across the bar, up the coast, through the Straits of Fuca to Port Townsend, and await the arrival of the connecting steamer from San Francisco. 2. From Portland to Tacoma. Passengers to leave Portland can obtain tickets and further information by calling at the ticket office of the P. C. S. S. Co., 8;^ First Street. Passengers from Seattle or other points on the Sound can engage passage and obtain information by applying to the Company's agents at Victoria, Port Townsend, Seattle or Tacoma. It is a pleasant journey through the pine forests from Portland to Tacoma, 150 miles distant, and at Tacoma the Alaskan journey begins. Tacoma was founded in 1873 and the site was selected on the theory that ocean commerce, enteringthegreat harbor of Puget Sound, would press inland as far as practica- ble to meet the railroads approaching it from the east and south. Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 50,000 people, full of vim, push and energy. Twenty million dollars' worth of property went up in flame and smoke in Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The ashes were scarcely cold when her enthusiastic citizens began to build anew, better, stronger and more beautiful than before. A city of brick, stone and iron has arisen, monu- mental evidence of the energy, pluck and preseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in the future of Seattle. Seattle is located upon a hilly strip of land from two and one-half to five miles in width, between Puget Sound and Lake Washington, twenty-five miles ong and five miles wide, lying parallel with the Sound. The sight on approach from the Sound is of a city built upon a hill-side, every large build- ing standing out by itself and affording the best possible view of a large part of the city. There is a continuous range of buildings from Smith's cove on the north, to the head of the harbor on the south, a distance of five miles. At night the scene from the harbor is strongly remindful of San Francisco. The growth of Seattle has been simply marvelous. In 1870 the town had 1,107 inhabitants; the census of 1890 shows a total of 43,847 people and the suburbs have a population of 4,915, so that Seattle may fairly claim a figure of 50,000 inhabitants. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor and gently sloping bluffs, " the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, of any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, Townsend has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, and this must tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are considered. Victoria, B. C, is reached in the evening, and we sleep that night in Her Majesty's dominions. The next day may be spent very pleasantly in driving and walking about the city, a handsome town of 16,000 people. (110) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. HI Victoria is beautifully situated on the southeast extremity of Vancouver Island. Fort Victoria, a subsidiary depot of the Hudson Bay Company — the chief depot then being at Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia River — was established in 1843, and in 1S48, at the time of the " Cayuse war," it became an important position for sending supplies to the interior. In 1858, about the time of the gold-mining excitement on the Fraser and the Skagit, New Georgia and New Caledonia, as the main coast and interior had previously been designated, be- came by royal edict British Columbia, and in 1866 the colony of Vancouver Island was united^therewith. Fort Victoria, meanwhile, became the city of Victoria. The place presents many interesting features to the stranger. THE COURSE. In making the passage from Victoria to Alaskan waters the first body of water met with is the Gulf of Georgia. The only known outlet from the northwestern part from the Gulf of Georgia to the northwest lies between the western side of Valdis Island and the northeastern shore of Vancouver's Is- land and is called Discovery Passage. This island was named for Don Caye- tano Valdis, who visited these waters in 1792, in the Spanish galliot Mexicana. Midway in Discovery Passage is Seymour Narrows. The shores on both sides are rugged, high and bold. The summits on the Valdis shore rise to the height of seven hundred feet, and those on the Vancouver side have the ap- pearance of being decidedly higher. Owing to the narrowness of this gorge the tides rush through with great velocity, attaining fully nine knots an hour at spring tides. Johnston's Straits separate the northern side of Vancouver Island from the Thurlow and other islands and the main land. These straits are about fifty- five miles in length and have a width of from one to two miles. Broughton Strait connects Johnston's Strait and Queen Charlotte's Sound and is about fifteen miles in length, the breadth varying from one to four miles. Queen Charlotte's Sound, an extensive arm of the sea, connects the inner channels north of Vancouver Island with the Pacific Ocean. It was named by Commander Wedgborough, in August, 17S6. It has a maximum length east and west of over fifty miles, and a width of from ten to twenty-five miles. It was named Pintdard's Sound by Capt. Gray, of the U. S. Ship Columbia, in 1789, after J. M. Pintdard, of Boston, one of his owners. Crossing Queen Charlotte's Sound we enter Fitz Hugh's Sound. This passage was named by Capt. James Hanna, in 1786. Milbank Sound was named by Duncan in 1788. This sound is over eight miles wide and fifteen miles long. 112 WESTERN RESORTS Finlayson Channel is next above, extending a distance of tliirty miles. The shores are densely wooded, the timber extending to the height of 1,500 feet on the mountain sides, while the peaks, closely approaching the shores of the channel, rise in a precipitous manner to the height of nearly 3,000 feet on either hand, with higher mountains beyond them. Patches of snow in the ravines are reported in August, and probably exist throughout the year. From these and from various lakes at a high altitude cascades of remarkable height and beauty fall down the abrupt mountain flanks, and in some cases swarm with salmon in their season, affording a bountiful supply of food to the Indians of this region. t The passage leading to the northwest is called by English authorities Gra- ham Reach and Hie-Hish Narrows. These narrows connect Finlayson Channel with Graham Reach, and are about five miles and a half long. Next above Graham Reach is the famous Grenville Channel, which extends west-northwest forty-five miles without any bend or curvature of importance. Its width varies from a mile to a mile and two-thirds. Leaving Grenville Channel the course runs through Malacca Passage into Chatham Sound. This sheet of water is about thirty-five miles long with an average width of eight miles. Next comes Dixon Entrance, an arm of the Pacific Ocean which bears inland. Passing through Revillagigedo Channel we enter Duke of Clarence Strait. This strait extends from Dixon Entrance to Summer Strait, northwest by west 107 miles. Width varying from three and half to twenty miles. From Clarence Strait the course lies north across Sumner Strait into Wran- gel Narrows. This latter difficult and narrow passage is nineteen miles in length. The tidal influence here is very strong and is navigable only at high tide. We next enter Frederick's Sound, the course lying north a distance of forty miles. Thence through Stephen's Passage to Juneau and Douglas Island. From this point through unimportant channels the course is laid north up Lynn Canal to Chilcat, and returning bearing westward to Glacier Bay. Re- turning, a southerly course is pursued until Chatham Strait is reached, where a choice may be taken of two routes, one through Cross Sound, outside, down the Pacific to Sitka Bay, and the other through Peril Straits to Sitka. The former course is preferred when the weather is thick, as Peril Straits are some- what difficult navigation. The return voyage is north with slight variation over the same course — tide and weather occasionally forcing a change of route. The course run is absolutely safe, and the tourist may rest assured that all possible danger has been avoided. The most dangerous channels pos- sess an element of safety in so far as the passenger is concerned — even if an accident happened to the ship, the passengers could be put on land with the FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 113 greatest ease, so close are the shores. Not a life has been lost of all the thousands who have been carried in .safety over these far distant northern waters. TABLE OF DISTANCES. Tacoma to Seattle 25 miles. Seattle to Port Townsend ^8 '< *' Port Townsend to Victoria ^ c « Victoria to Active Pass og « < Victoria to Nanaimo 7^ < ^ \'ictoria to Seymour Narrows i cq <« Nanaimo to Tongas Narrows cqq u Fort Tongas to Tongas Narrows c^ <' Nuket Inlet to Fort Chester 53 " Fort Chester to Tongas Narrows i c n Tongas Narrows to Loring 24 " Loring to Wrangel 88 u Loring to Yaas Bay 22 " Yaas Bay to Wrangel 100 " Wrangel to Juneau. i^o ci Juneau to Killisnoo go '< Juneau to Glacier Bay no " Juneau to Sitka i -q a Sitka to Chilkat 17 c u Sitka to Killisnoo 73 n Sitka to Bartlet's Bay i cq " Bartlet's Bay to Chilkat 08 " Victoria to Tongas Narrows 588 « \'ictoria to Bartlet's Bay 704 " Port Townsend to Tongas Narrows 703 " Tono-as Narrows to Yaas Bay -18 " Bartlet's Bay to Killisnoo 80 " Tongas Nan-ows to Nanaimo coo " Tacoma to Tongas 755 a Tacoma to Fort Wrangel 865 " Tacoma to Juneau I 008 " Tacoma to Killisnoo i j 14 u Tacoma to Chilkat i 203 " Tacoma to Sitka I ^78 « These are chart distances and substantially correct. Note. — For full and particular description of the Alaskan Voyage, see "Sights and Scenes in Alaska," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific System, Omaha, Nebraska. (114) UTAH POINTS. TAH was originally part of the territory of Upper California ceded to the United States by the Mexican treaty of 1848, and was settled by the Mormons under Brigham Young in 1847, A Territorial government was formed September 9, 1850. The name "Utah" is of Indian derivation, and signifies "a home or location on a mountain top." The Territory contains 84,000 square miles; is 350 miles long by 260 wide. There are 400,000 acres of land under cultivation, and the yearly value of farm products as last reported was upward of $10,000,000. We have but scant and meagre mention of Utah in any historical record. Great Salt Lake was first mentioned by Baron La Hontan in 1689, but he knew of it only from Indian traditions. Captain Bonneville's party failed to reach there in 1833, and wandered aimlessly into Southern California. General Fremont was the first white man who invaded the solemn stillness of this mysterious sea, in 1842. OGDEN. Ogden is one of the western termini of the Union Pacific. It has an elevation of about 4,301 feet above the sea-level. It has a population of about 12,000 people, and is steadily gaining all the time. While its growth has been slow, it has been on a solid basis. The enormous supplies in shipments from the great country tributary to it give employment in their transfer to a large number of men. Here are located the division headquarters and shops of the Union and the Southern Pacific railroads. It has good schools, hotels, banks, and churches, and the surrounding country possesses much to attract the. tourist. Just north of Ogden, and beyond the Utah Hot Springs, is the celebrated! Cache Valley, oval in form, and surrounded by niountains and trimmed with green-fringed brooks and rivulets. Through this valley runs the Utah & Northern Branch to Pocatello, and north of the valley is the famous Port Neuf Canon, unusually picturesque in formation. (115) (116) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 117 ECHO CANON Is on the main line of the Union Pacific, and is entered upon soon after leaving Evanston, Wyoming. " Echo Canon," says a celebrated English traveler, " is a superb defile. It moves along like some majestic poem in a series of incom- parable stanzas. There is nothing that I know of on the earth like it." This masterpiece of Nature is some thirty miles long, and its wonderful diversity of contour, its beauty and its grandeur are astounding. It has every feature of impressiveness, strong, sharply defined color, and groupings of majestic forms — temples, towers, colonnades stretching out in long perspective, and support- ing the weight of mighty cornices, striking objects whose vast proportions show them to be the work of Nature alone, and yet their symmetrical forms are as true as if fashioned by the hand of man. Geologists tell us that this section is undoubtedly among the most anciently exposed portions of the American continent. Among the wonders of this marvelous defile the tourist will note "Hanging Rock," "The Steamboat," "Gibraltar," "Monument Rock," and " Pulpit Rock," famous the world over. Pulpit Rock is so called from its shape, and from the supposition that Brigham Young preached from it his first sermon on Utah soil, addressed to the pioneers then on their way to the Salt Lake Valley, in 1847. WEBER CANON Is on the main line of the Union Pacific. Between the little town of Echo and the head of \Veber Canon there are several miles of the Weber Valley, luxuriant in meadows and dotted with farm houses. Weber Caiion is not simply a long defile through the mountains, but it is a majestic succession of true mountain scenery ; mighty gateways, long, narrow valleys, visions of great peaks, holding in their ravines eternal snow, heights crested with pine and aspen, and towers and domes of rock. Says an eloquent writer : " As on the Rhine, the long stretch of the river from Mainz to Cologne has been for years by acknowledg- ment ' The River,' so that portion of the Union Pacific which lies between Wahsatch and Ogden in this northern part of Utah will some day be that part of the journey across the center of the continent which will be regarded by the tourist as necessary to see beyond all others. And long after the Pacific journey is as hackneyed to Europeans and Americans as the Rhine tour is now, Weber Canon will keep its freshness among the most marked scenes of the journey. It is a place which cities and settlements cannot destroy." Among the many points of interest the traveler will note "Wilhelmina Pass," "Devil's Slide," the "One-thousand Mile Tree" (from Omaha), and the "Devil's Gate.' SYRACUSE BEACH. Syracuse Beach, fifteen miles from Ogden, is reached by the Utah Central Branch of the Union Pacific. Here the tourist will find an excellent strand (118) FOR HEALTH AND TLEASURE. 119 and comfortable appliances for bathing. Close at hand are lovely groves, cool, shady, and inviting, where an ideal picnic can be held. Syracuse Beach is beginning to be recognized as c. charming summer resort for families who desire to spend the heated term by the seaside. OGDEN CANON. Ogden Canon, one of Utah's chief scenic attractions, is reached by a half- hour's drive over a good road from Ogden. The Ogden River, which courses between its walls, is a famous trout stream. The sides of this canon are very precipitous and picturesque, rivaling the American Fork in the variety and character of their striking features. At the head of the canon is an elevated park, called Ogden Park, and beyond this the drive may be extended to Cache and Bear Lake Valleys. UTAH HOT SPRINGS. These springs are sometimes called Red Springs, and sometimes Ogden Springs. They are just nine miles north of Ogden, and are readily reached from there over the Utah & Northern Branch of the Union Pacific to Hot Springs Station, which is a regular station on the road, and the springs are but a few steps away. All trains stop at the door of the hotel. This hotel is plainly but comfortably furnished, accommodating about 150 people, and additional accommodations are being provided every season. These springs have an elevation of some 4,500 feet ab(3ve sea-level, and are far superior to the cele- brated Hot Springs of Arkansas. The main spring boils up at the foot of a low ridge of the Wahsatch Mountains, a short distance east of the railway station. These springs impart a red hue to the surrounding soil. Their temperature is so high that the hand cannot be held in the water without great pain. The water is conducted into the hotel from the springs in wooden pipes for private bathing and for the great open bath, when it becomes cool enough for use. These springs are patronized all the year round, and are very efficacious in curing rheumatism, neuralgia, catarrh, and all skin, blood and kidney diseases. The waters are intensely hot, and their chief constituents are iron, magnesia, soda and salt. The bracing air of the Wahsatch Range, mingling with the saline breezes of the Great Salt Lake, with the pure water of these thermal, balsamic springs, nowhere excelled for drinking or bathing purposes, produce a natural combina- tion of marvelously curative properties. The flow is about 156,000 gallons of water every twenty-four hours, at a temperature of 131° Fahrenheit. A close analysis of the water by Prof. Spencer (120) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 121 F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D. C, shows that besides containing carbonate of iron in heavy deposits, it also contains : Grains to „.,. the gallon. Sihca 2.687 Alumina 0.234 Calcium sulphate 18.074 Calcium chloride 170.081 Potassium chloride 97-741 Sodium chloride 1,052.475 Magnesium chloride • i .067 Magnesium carbonate , 1 1 .770 The bathing accommodations consist of a number of private tubs, for vapor or steam, and hot mud baths. The latter is the great Indian cure for rheuma- tism. Besides supplying these baths, this wonderful water is run into an out- side summer bath ifi6 x 204 feet, three feet deep at the upper, and seven at the lower, side, arranged with foot-runs and spring-boards, thus affording amuse- ment for hundreds at a time. WILLARD CASON AND FALLS Are reached via the Union Pacific to Ogden, and thence via the Utah & North- ern Branch of the Union Pacific to Willard Station where a good team can be had for the falls. The distance from Willard Station is three miles. Willard is the name of a picturesque little town six miles beyond the Ogden Hot Springs. It is surrounded on all sides by natural beauty, but mostly the eye is attracted toward the west, where the Great Salt Lake, with its deep blue waters and mountainous islands is seen to fine advantage; and to the east where there is such a wild lot of beetling crags, which, for height and grandeur are not exceeded by even the wonders of Echo and Weber Caiions. Just back of the town are the falls, situated in a cafion or glen, truly alpine in its wildness. Some of its walls of rock are simply terrific, and during the early months its stream comes down with a magnificent rush. There are great naked aiguilles and towers which make one dizzy to look up to their summits. About two miles from the entrance there is a huge mountain which, where it faces down the glen, is a bristling mass of crags, jags and splinters, but which, at the back, has all of its ledges so smoothly polished that not a foothold could be found upon them. Such a mountain as we dream of when our sleep is fever- ish, and imagine ourselves going down, down, down, vainly catching at bits of "feeam-grown grass which, breaking at our grasp, lets us slowly glide. A week's sojourn at Willard at any time from May to October means a week of rare enjoyment. GARFIELD BEACH. Garfield Beach, or Black Rock, is eighteen miles from Salt Lake City on the shores of the Great Salt Lake, and is reached from Salt Lake City by the Utah & Nevada Branch of the Union Pacific. During the season trains run back (122) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 123 and forth at frequent intervals during the day and evening. It is the only real sand beach on the lake, and is considered by many to be the finest in the world. It should be, and will be, the great resort of the continent. It is not a sullen, listless sheet of water, beating idly on the shores, barren and repellent; but on the contrary, it is as beautiful a sheet of water as can be found anywhere. The waves are a bright blue or green, and as they dance on its surface it would be hard to tell which color prevails. The water supports no life. Its constant sinking and rising is only one of its many curious phases. The sensation upon entering the water is novel and congenial. In the long, sunny days of June, July, August, and September, the water becomes delightfully warm, much warmer than the ocean. It is 21 per cent, salt, while the ocean is only 3 per cent. The water is so dense that a person is sustained on its surface indefinitely without effort. Experience has proven its great hygienic effects. Owing to the stimulating effect of the brine upon the skin, or the saline air upon the lungs, or both together, the appetite is stimulated, and after a bath, bathers are ready for a hearty meal. The baths are extremely invigorating. If there is any abra- sion upon the skin it will smart for an instant when it touches the brine, but after the bath the smarting is gone, never to return; and after rinsing off in the fresh water, provided in every bath-room, there is a sense of cleanliness more perfect than any other bath can produce. A fine bath-house accommodating 400 people has been erected at Garfield Beach, in connection with which there is a first-class restaurant, and a large dancing-pavilion built out into the lake, all of which are run by the Pacific Hotel Company, under the supervision of the Union Pacific. At the restaurant excellent meals can be had during the entire season. The buildings at Garfield Beach are modern, have every con- venience, and were erected last year at a great cost. It is proposed to erect a large hotel on the beach, although the ready access which is had to and from the Salt Lake City hotels has heretofore rendered a hotel at Garfield Beach un- necessary. The view from the pavilion at Garfield Beach is one of surpassing loveliness. The mountains on the shore form a fine background to the rippling waters on the lake, which stretch out on either hand before the beholder, danc- ing in the sunlight, sometimes a beautiful blue, and at other times green, with three or four of the largest islands in full view, which, in the distance, have a peculiar purplish hue. Concerning Garfield Beach as a health and pleasure resort the following can- did remarks of a prominent Western journalist may not be uninteresting: " It is true I am not the first to visit Garfield Beach, but it so happens that those who have visited it ahead of me have not properly published its wonders in the public press, and people are not, therefore aware of the fact that Salt Lake is already one of the most attractive bathing resorts in this country. Some day people will visit Salt Lake as they now throng the sea-shore. Some day the boarders of this immense inland sea will be lined with large hotels, elegant villas, and gaily-colored bathing-houses. The waves of this (124) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 125 briny lake will some day bear the light burden of excursion boats, yachts, and row-boats in large numbers. The mountains around it will be dotted with country homes and scoured by excursion parties. The seekers after health and recreation will find both in the benefits and pleasures of frequent baths in this most wonderful of lakes. " Salt-water bathing may now be enjoyed by all who visit Salt Lake, and it cannot fail to convert this place into a great health resort. Good bathing- houses having been erected and railroad accommodations made adequate ; hundreds of bathers enter the waters of Salt Lake every day, and hourly trains run from the city to the beach. " Have you ever bathed in water that is 2 t per cent, or almost one-fourth, salt ? Probably not. Comparatively very few people have yet realized, the ex- hilarating and invigorating effects of a bath in Salt Lake, and nowhere else in the world can such water be found. The water of the ocean is 3 per cent, salt and considerably more buoyant than fresh water. The water of Salt Lake con- tains nearly eight times as much salt as the water of the ocean and is so buoyant that 3 human being floats upon its surface like a log of wood. Men, women, and children, totally unable to swim, enter the lake with perfect safety, and in their gaily-colored bathing-suits bob around in the water like so many human bubbles. So great is the specific gravity of the water in this lake that a person cannot sink, and the only evil to guard against is getting a mouthful of salt water, which is so strong as to choke one disagreeably and even painfully. "Garfield Beach, the bathing resort par excellence of the lake, is established on the shores of the Great Salt Lake, and is reached by the Utah & Nevada Branch of the Union Pacific from the city in from half an hour to forty-five minutes. It is located on the southern shore of the lake, about eighteen miles distant from the city, at the base of high mountains. Five hundred bathers were enjoying the waters of this beach when the writer, attired in a gaudy bathing- suit, entered the briny flood. We soon found ourselves in the midst of men, women, and children, indolently floating on the water or lazily swimming to and fro. The habits of the fresh-water bathers are more brisk, and naturally enough 1 'struck out,' as the saying is, to do some swiming. In a moment I wished I had not been in such a hurry. My feet and hands bobbed up to the surface, or near it, and the consequent splash of water landed several stinging drops in my eyes. For a moment the briny, burning sensation was quite severe, far more so than ocean water could make it. I then realized what excellent judgment was displayed by those who behaved more quietly in the water. They had no difficulty in keeping eyes, nose and mouth free from the strong brine, which is so pleasant to float in. .\ little experience will enable anyone to float and slowly swim in this water without getting it into his mouth or eyes. The chief precaution is to keep quiet, and that the bathers realize this is evident from the lazy manner in which they lie around in the water, or the equally lazy way in which they roll, or swim, or paddle from place to place. JACK IN THE PULPIT, ECHO CANON, UTAH— on the Union Pacific Syst (126) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 127 "The fresh-water bathers cannot but l)c surprised at the feats performed in this lake without any difficulty. Men lie on their backs in the water quietly smoking as they are rocked delightfully in the swells which roll ia lazy waves upon the beach. Men and women lying upon their backs form long processions, the leader putting his feet under the armpits of the next person, and he or she in turn doing the same to the third person in line. In this way eight or ten linked together may be seen floating on the water, slowly proceeding in proces- sion, as the leader uses his arms to propel the human raft. Those who thus link themselves together are, I presui^e, well acquainted with each other. Sev- eral ladies dressed in fancy bathing-suits attracted my attention from the ease and grace of their movements in the water. Indeed, one cannot fail to note that women are far more graceful in the water than men, as soon as they ac- quire confidence, which they appear to gain very soon. " It is common for the bathers in this lake to remain in the water an hour. Many extend the time to two and some to three hours. Moderate bathing can be indulged in day after day without the ill effects which would follow such frequent bathing in fresh water. " I cannot close without renewing the prophecy of future greatness for Salt Lake as a summer resort. To develop the great advantages of the lake and to make them accessible to the people of the East, the Union Pacific pur- sues a liberal policy. Salt Lake is no farther from the Missouri River than Chicago is from the Atlantic coast, and Eastern people are able to reach this splendid salt-water bathing place just as quickly as Chicago people can travel to the coast, as the Union Pacific now run their trains in thirty-six hours from the Missouri River, and will doubtless soon shorten this time to thirty hours or less. The rate of fare is very reasonable, excursion tickets being sold at a greatly reduced rate everywhere. " The people of the Western States long for a cheaply accessible summer resort. The ocean coasts are too far away; but Salt Lake, only i,ooo miles from the Missouri River, offers already a combination of atractions unequaled anywhere else in America. The visitor can bathe in salt water on a splendid beach, surrounded by lofty mountains ; he can take hot sulphur baths in water coming from natural springs above the city; he can drink mineral waters coming from neighboring springs ; he can make short excursions on foot or on horseback into canons within a few hours' ride of the city; he can find excellent fishing in many mountain streams, and he can have the opportunity of watch- ing and studying the strangest people in America — the only one, in fact, which submits to and believes in a union of church and state, and the priestly rule. " To my taste. Salt Lake is already a far more attractive summer resort than others to which wealth and fashion throng, and as vet the development of its attractions has only begun. A man can take his family and come to Salt (138) T: Willi ■»'>~^-- «vvia».ww: D H ^ Ransom "eston Franklin^ '% ^^o. 'Vi \i ColJijj '^^Oacliill ^ °«// 1 L-ogan ille '^ ^ Briglidni or ''ox Elder C. H CraigTieaa \ ^- — 'V WHIara v. fUTAH ,HOT SPRINGS E R iOGDEN ^/f " l^ooper^^ \^^^^ S vV »\Jfevracv|se Tc. ; O lajfon^v a» aysvilleO Tarmington*! »r CentxaEJlleB vs^ \ jvK']^' TSPRINO LAKE A M^^.^ BLACK ROCI?'^^- evs GARFIELD BEACI^ S ® A | L\ S.,2teV. * O).. Uny'i, Vhl XaV«irTointi Half Way House^ I L -Tooele Terminus RvmLAEisiljs ° Stocktah Praacl5yr Germani^ Xoveud^huTg I FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 129 Lake in thirty-six hours over the Union Pacific, and if desired can return by way of Denver. The splendid scenery in the Weber and Echo Canons of the Union Pacific, coupled with the attractions and wonders of Salt Lake, makes Salt Lake City the natural summer resort for those who are so fortunate as to be able to spend a few weeks of the hot weather away from home." Giant's Cave is located about a third of a mile to the southwest of Gar- field Beach, in one of the mountains comprising the Oquirrh Range, and the entrance to the cave is a few hundred feet above the road-bed of the Union Pacific. In years past, the cave was submerged beneath the waves of Great Salt Lake or, more correctly speaking, was probably hollowed out by its receding waters, so that, like Staffa, it has resounded to the wash of briny waters. Some- where between 500 and 600 feet is the distance the opening extends into the mountain, and the height of the ceiling above the floor varies from ten to seventy-five feet. The walls are composed of limestone, the ceiling and floor of conglomerate, and the sharp lines of demarkation produce the effect of its having been built by the hand of man. When the cave was first entered, nearly thirty years ago, it was found to contain a number of human skeletons. Whether the remains belong to the present race of Lidians in the Salt Lake Valley is not known, but most proba- bly they do. The skeletons are most likely those of warriors slain in some Indian fight of long ago, and a large number of arrow heads have been found in the hillside near the entrance, and occasionally one is picked up at the pres- ent day. These vary in size from one third of an inch to three inches in length, and are of many different patterns, the small ones showing fine workmanship. Li many cases they are made of agate and other transparent material. A pleasant morning or evening can be spent in exploring this cave and enjoying the sights it affords. GREAT SALT LAKE When Great Salt Lake was discovered it was out of the world, but it is now isolated no longer. Everyone taking the transcontinental trip on the Union Pacific is afforded a detour free of charge to Salt Lake City, and once in Salt Lake City, the great lake must be seen, and this lake, as a special feature, is becoming better and better known every year. It is called the " Dead Sea of America." The first mention of Great Salt Lake was made by the Baron La Hontan in 1689, who gathered some vague knowledge of its existence from the Western Indians. Captain Bonneville sent a party from Green River in 1833 to make its circuit, but they gave it uj) on striking the desert on the northwest, lost their way and finally wandered into California. Until Colonel Fremont visited it in 1842, on his way to Oregon, it is probable that its dead waters had never been (130) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 131 t invaded, or the solemn stillness of its islands broken by the paleface, although mention is made of the "Great Salt Sea" in the writings of other explorers. Brigham Young and the Mormon pioneers in '47 were the first settlers along its shores. From this time this region ceased to be a terra iticognita. There have been many analyses made of the waters of the Great Salt Lake, all of them agreeing that it is a solution consisting of chloride of sodium or common salt, or sulphates of silver, potash, alum, and the chloride of magne- sium. The following comparison of solid contents and specific gravity may be of interest : Solid Contents. Specific Per. Cent. Gravity. Great Salt Lake water 13.8 i . 107 Dead Sea water 21.0 i .116 Ocean water 3.5 i .026 One of the most recent reliable analyses of the waters of the Great Salt Lake, by Prof. O. D. Allern, of New Haven, Conn., gave the following results : Solids. Per Cent. Chloride of sodium 79- n Chloride of magnesia 9.95 Sulphate of soda 6.22 Sulphate of potassa 3.58 Sulphate of lime o. 57 Excess of chlorine o. 57 Total. 100.00 The Jordan carries into the Great Salt Lake ten grains of salt per gallon of water. Great Salt^Lake has no outlet, and its fluctuating level is determined by the balance between in-flowing springs and solar evaporation. On the sur- rounding mountains are water lines rismg in steps to a thousand feet above its surface, showing that in ancient times a great body of water occupied its basin. This ancient body, which was known as Lake Bonneville, was 345 miles long from north to south, and 135 miles broad, and its vestiges are on so grand a scale that they have attracted the attention of not only geologists, but of every observant traveler. The principal islands are Antelope and Stansbury, on which are rocky ridges ranging north and south, and rising abruptly from the lake to an altitude of 3,000 feet. The view from the summit of Antelope is grand and magnificent, embracing the whole lake, the islands and the encircling mountains covered with snow — a superl) picture set in a frame- work of silver. The scenery on the eastern side of Stansbury is fine. Peak towers above peak, and cliff beyond cliff in lofty magnificence, while crowning the summit, the dome frowns in gloomy solitude upon the varied scene of bright waters, scat- tered verdure, and boundless plains of the western shore, in the arid desolation DEVIL'S SLIDE, WEBER CANON, UTAH— on the Union Pacific Systen (132) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 133 below. Descendin.s: one way from the dome, a gorge, at first almost shut up between perpendicular cliffs of white sandstone, opens out into a superb, wide and gently sloping valley, sheltered on each side to the very water's edge by cliffs, effectually protected from all winds except on the east, and covered with the most luxuriant growth of bunch grass. Of the minor islands there are Fre- mont, Carrington, Gunnison, Dolphin, Mud, Egg, Hat, and several islands with- out a name. Great Salt Lake covers an area of 2,500 square miles, and its surface is higher than the average height of the Allegheny Mountains. Its mean depth probably does not exceed twenty feet, while the deepest place, between Ante- lope and Stansbury Islands, is sixty feet. The water is of a beautiful aqua- marine hue, and so clear that the bottom can be seen to the depth of four fathoms. Great Salt Lake is one of the greatest curiosities of America. Its extreme dimensions are about eighty miles in length by about 'fifty miles in width, and its elevation about 4,000 feet. Great Salt Lake is a wonderful place, and to be appreciated must be seen. SALT LAKE CITY. Salt Lake City is reached from Ogden via the Utah Central Branch of the Union Pacific, thirty-seven miles from Ogden. The ride from Ogden to Salt Lake City is one of peculiar interest, passing down the Utah or Salt Lake Valley, sloping gently from the mountains on the one side to the Great Salt Lake on the other. In fact the railway skirts the shores of the lake for almost the entire distance. Nine miles from Ogden is Syracuse Junction, from which point the Ogden & Syracuse branch of the Union Pacific runs to Syracuse Beach, a fine summer resort on Salt Lake. Just before entering Salt Lake City on the Union Pacific, are Beck's Hot Springs, three miles out, where there are good hotel accommodations and fine baths. The medicinal qualities of the water are good, and the place is largely frequented at all seasons of the year. It is well located and is only a few rods from the railway station. The famous Warm Sulphur Springs are within the northern limits of the city — about one mile from the business centre — and are easily reached by street cars. These springs issue from the base of the mountains, and the great virtue of the waters has long been recognized in cases of rheumatism, dyspepsia, catarrh, scrofula, and the entire family of blood diseases. Beneficent effects are experienced both by internal and external application. Salt Lake City was founded July 24, 1847, by the Mormons or Latter Day Saints. The city has a population of about 35,000 people, and the elevation is 4,350 feet above sea-level. Her buildings are fine, both business blocks and private residences, and every indication of wealth is apparent. The points of interest are Fort Douglas, The Great Temple, The Tabernacle, The Assembly Hall, The Endowment House, and Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institute. GIANT'S CAVE, GARFIELD BEACH, ON GREAT SALT LAKE, UTAH — reached via Union Pacific System. (184) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 135 Salt Lake City is one of the largest military posts in the West. The place attracts thousands of visitors annually, and the wide streets, lined with shade and fruit trees, bordered on either curl) by clear running streams, are of them- selves sights worth the long journey from the East. The luscious fruits of orchards and vineyards and the delightful view of the Wahsatch Range are additional attractions. The Tabernacle is oblong, oval, and many doored. Its seating capacity is about 12,000. The roof, with one exception, is the largest self-supported roof in the world. The Great Temple, just beside it, possesses more of beauty, but it is less quaint in style. It is slowly approaching completion. Its stately walls, of polished l-tah granite, rise loo feet above the foundation, and the towers are to reach loo feet higher. The building will be one of the most massive, imposing, and expensive churches in the world when completed. The grave of Brigham Young, his old residence, and the palace of his favorite wife, will be pointed out as objects of local interest. But from a geological stand- point the whole region merits attention. Driving to the high plateau which overlooks the city, on every hand is seen the valley, smooth, verdant, and dotted with farms. In the middle, the city peers through its myriads of leaves. Its long roads stretch into the country straight as an arrow for some fifteen miles, while to the south'is seen Fort Douglas, perched upon a high knoll over- looking the city. On the inclosing hills the old water-line of Great Salt Lake is visible, showing that at some time its salt waves dashed high above the dome of the Temple, and that this great valley was once an inland sea. Beneath this water-mark is another one, proving that the lake had at least two periods of sinking. The chief resort, however, is the Great Salt Lake, eighteen miles distant. This " Dead Sea of America," with its River Jordan and the distant Mount Nebo, have an interest kindred to the places of the same name in the Holy Lantl. The Mormons, who are inseparably identified with Salt Lake City, are a peculiar people, and, modeling their form of church government and many of their rites and ceremonies after those of the Hebrews, they have clothed the valley with a mantle of nomenclature which constantly reminds the traveler of the land from which sprang the Christian religion; and Salt Lake City itself, with its immense Tabernacle and Great Temple, has been consid- ered the Jerusalem of the Latter Day Saints. The fame of this city and its Mormon institutions has gone abroad into the four quarters of the globe, but its wonderful attractions for the tourist and the health and pleasure seeker, with its unlimited resources, are destined to give it a wider and more enduring fame in the near future. Salt Lake City, at the foot of the Wahsatch Mountains, and in sight of lonely Nebo, the loftiest peak of L'tah, would be 28,000 feet above Nebo now, if its site could take the altitude it occupied ages ago. That before becoming the bed of this lake, this site was a plateau 40,000 feet high, is clearly told in the story of 136 FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. the rocks. The mountains of old broke in half and settled back, leaving the valley between. The western slope of the eastern range, and the eastern slope of the western range, could some giant force bring them together, would fit like two cog-wheels. Note. — For further information, see " Sights and Scenes in Utah," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in Utah. The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates, during the summer season of 1891, a series of excursion tickets called " Salt Lake Tours," covering the principal points in Utah, using Salt Lake City and Ogden as cen- tral points. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limits of the tickets. Tickets will be good thirty days from date of sale. First Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden or Salt Lake City, down the Utah Cen- tral Branch of the LTnion Pacific, to Frisco; from Frisco, returning to Lehi; from Lehi to Salt Lake City. Second Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City, over the Utah & Nevada Division of the Union Pacific, to Terminus, and return, via Garfield Beach, to Salt Lake City. This tour comprises a boat ride on Great Salt Lake. Third Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Syracuse Beach and return. Fourth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Park City and return. Fifth Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden to Echo and Weber Canons, on the main line of the LTnion Pacific Railway, and return. Sixth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Utah Hot Springs and return. Seventh Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden to Willard Canon and return. Eighth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Pocatello. CALIFORNIA POINTS. ALIFORNIA is a word of Spanish origin and means "hot furnace." The State is 770 miles long; its extreme breadth is 330 miles and its least breadth is 150 miles; it has an area of 160,000 square miles, or 100,000,000 acres of territory. In 1542, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator in the service of Spain, landed on the coast of California, and was probably the first white man to visit the "Golden Stale." When the peninsula, now known as Southern California, was discovered in 1534, it was named California, and for upward of 200 years that was the California known to Europeans, although the name was also applied to the coast further north. The Franciscan friars, under Junipero Serra, settled at San Diego in 1769. In 1 82 1, California became a portion of independent Mexico, and after- ward a territory under the Mexican Republican Government. On July 7, 1846 the American navy seized Monterey, the capital of Upper California, and American authority dates from that day. Gold was discovered in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, January 19, 1848, and a month later Upper California was ceded by treaty to the United States. In fifteen months 100,000 people settled in the Territory; the first steamer arrived March 31, 1849. The constitution was signed October 30, 1849, and California was admitted into the Union as a State, September 9, 1850. THE YOSE^flTE VALLEY. The Yosemite Valley is readily reached from San Francisco or Lathrop, via Berenda or jNIilton Stations, on the Los Angeles line of the Southern Pacific Railroad. Berenda is on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad, 178 miles from San Francisco, while Milton is on the Stockton & Copperopolis branch, which leaves the main line at Stockton, 103 miles from San Francisco. From Stockton to Milton the distance is thirty miles. From Berenda the San Joaquin Valley Division of the Southern Pacific Railroad runs to Raymond, (137) ,3a (138) FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 139 twenty-one miles distant, where there is a large and commodious hotel, and from Raymond, via stage, to the park. From Herenda or Milton there are regular stages into the valley. The more preferable of the two, however, is the one from Berenda, although tourists frequently make the trip through from Berenda to Milton, visiting en route both the Mariposa and Calaveras Big Tree Groves. The roimd trip from San Francisco or Lathrop to the Yosemite Val- ley and return to San Francisco can be made in four days. This includes a visit to the Mariposa grove of big trees, either going or returning, and enables the traveler to visit all the chief points of interest in the valley. The Yosemite Valley is the tourists' paradi.se of California and the Pacific coast, if not of the world. It cannot be compared with Yellowstone National Park, because there are few points of similarity, and each is peerless in its own way. No other scene or series of scenes in the world presents the beauty of the one, or the wonderful features of the other. Having seen the one, the tourist should see the other. The Yosemite Valley is set apart as a park, and is dedicated to the sightseers of the world. The points of interest are El Capitan, Three Broth- ers, Washington Column, Cathedral Rocks, The Sentinel and Domes, Bridal Veil Falls, Yosemite Falls, Mirror Lake, and Cloud's Rest. The Yosemite Falls are composed of three cascades, the first being 1,500 feet, the second 600 feet, and the last 400 feet high. In the four days' trip from San Francisco or Lath- rop, only two days can be had in the valley, which is only time enough to merely glance at the scenes of interest. A week or ten days should be spent. No pen, however graphic, can convey a correct idea of the lovely scenes which here enchant the eye. THE MARIPOSA AND CALAVERAS BIG TREES. The big trees which are visited en route to the Yosemite are well worth a visit. How they can be best reached is explained in the description of the Yosemite Valley. These trees are a marvelous sight. In the Mariposa group are 600 trees, of which 125 are over forty feet in circumference, and several are from ninety to one hundred feet. The Grizzly Giant, one of the monsters of this monster forest, sends out a limb which is six feet in diameter, at a height of ninety feet above the ground. The Calaveras group has one tree which is 435 feet high, and no feet m circumference at the butt. The Calaveras trees are most accessible from Milton, the terminus of the Stockton & Copperopolis branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, which runs from Stockton on the Los Angeles line to Milton, just north of Lathrop. From Milton, this group of trees is forty-seven miles distant. There are also some very large trees on King's River, forty-one miles frcmi Visalia, which is reached via the Los An- geles line on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and the Visalia branch from Goshen. Goshen is 241 miles from San Francisco, and Visalia is fifteen miles distant from Goshen. 140 WESTERN RESORTS. LOS ANGELKS, SANTA BARBARA, San Diego, Riverside, Santa Ana, and other cities and villages in Southern California are growing in favor with tourists, invalids, and travelers generally. They are beautiful in themselves and charming in surroundings. Embowered in vines, embellished with rare flowers, and fringed with orchards producing delicious fruits, they present a most enchanting and restful sight. For a winter vacation visit. Southern California is unequaled in attractions. The climate, productions, and natural scenery combine to restore health to the invalid and give enjoyment to all. In the summer the trip is also pleasant, and should not be omitted from a tour of the Golden State. SAN FRANCISCO. San Francisco is the pleasure seeker's great city. Its mammoth hotels, palatial in appointments as well as spacious in dimensions, can accommodate thousands. No other city on the continent has such complete and ample hotels. Adjacent and easily and quickly reached are numerous places of interest to all travelers. A score of one-day trips can be made which bring the tourist to his San Francisco hotel every evening, and other longer journeys can be taken. The people of the city are hospitable, and have that generous disregard of expense which is so characteristic of California, and which lavishes money without stint upon public and private buildings, and in the adornment of grounds and surroundings. Every nation and every climate are represented in this most cosmopolitan of American cities, in the persons of her inhabitants and the products offered for sale in booths and buildings on her busy streets. The splendid metropolis of California and of the entire Pacific coast of America, though less than forty years old as a city, has a population to-day of nearly 400,000, with a commerce reaching out through its golden gate to all the nations of the earth, with roads of steel stretching away to the east, south, and north, and connecting it by a few days' travel with every part of the broad continent; with great manufactories and markets for the sale and exchange of the fabrics and products of the civilized globe, and with the bright prospect of a growth and development which will bring it in a few more years to a rank among the great cities of the world. San Francisco is situated on the noble bay which bears its name, a bay which extends north and south for sixty miles, with a width of from four to six miles in the vicinity of the city, and forming a great inland sea. The ground for several blocks along the city front is "made ground," made from cutting down the sand hills in the early building of the city. Telegraph, Russian, Clay streets, and California street ("Nob" Hill) will be noticed on the right, as the visitor approaches the city by ferry from the Oakland pier. On the left, and more distant, he will see the outlines of the Mission hills, and by looking FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 141 between these and nearly on a line with a huge bulk of the Palace Hotel, he sees in the distance the "Twin Peaks." Market street, the great thorough- fare, starts from the landing place, from the ferry steamer, and stretches south- west direct toward these prominent landmarks. The climate of San Francisco is very equable, the temperature averaging about 66 degrees the year round seldom going above 85" in summer or below 40° in winter. The trade winds which blow during the summer months from the broad Pacific, usually com- mence about 1 1 o'clock a. m., and keep the temperature at a refreshing state of coolness, making San Francisco the most desirable summer resort of any city in the world, and forming a most pleasing contrast to the torrid heat which often prevails for weeks in the Eastern cities, no matter how far north they may be situated; while the winter, or " wet season," extending from October to April, corresponds to spring months in the Eastern and Middle States, with occasional rainy days, but often with weeks at a time of warm, bright, sunshiny days, the most perfect weather which can be imagined, with all the hills fresh and green, and in INIarch, April and May covered with the greatest profusion of wild flowers. Visitors who come from the Eastern States — that is, from any State east of us — should remember that they will need warm, heavy clothing here in summer as well as winter, as in summer the temperature in the morn- ing up to II o'clock will often rise to So° or 85^, and drop to 60'' or 65*^ when the trade winds begin to blow. The street-car system is unexcelled. Over fifty miles of cable-roads are in operation, traversing all parts of the city, climbing the steep hills, affording the residents of the hilly sections easy and cheap communication with the business parts. A trip over the cable-roads affords the finest views which can be obtained of the city, bay, and surrounding country, and is a pleasure trip indeed. The Market street cable system extends to the famous Cliff House, Ocean Beach, and Sutro Heights, through the beautiful Golden Gate Park. The California street cable-road runs up California street (or " Xob " Hill), where are situated magnificent residences. The United States Mint is on Fifth street, near Market, and is the largest mint in the world. The splendid plant of the Union Iron Works at the Potrero is well worth a visit and inspection, it being fully equal in all its appointments to any of the great ship-yards or iron works in the East, or on the Clyde, in Scotland. San Francisco is, and should be made, the center from which to visit all the tourist resorts of California. It is an interesting city of itself, and will employ the time of the visitor profitably and agreeably for daiys. Its sail-flecked bay and the Golden Gate are a chapter of pleasing sights varied in aspect by the movements of the multitude of vessels floating the flags of all nations. Among its many attractions the tourist must not neglect visiting the famous Cliff House, which commands a view of the Seal Rocks and the Golden Gate. The drive out to the Cliff House through the military post of Presidio and back BRIDAL VEIL FALLS. YOSEMITE VALLEY, CALIFORN lA — reached via the Lr^on Pacific System. (U2) FOR HEALTH AXD PLEASURE. 143 through the park is one of the finest drives in the world. Excursions across its shining surface to the ocean, to San Rafael, etc., are enjoyable and frequent. From San Rafael the journey may be continued northward to Santa Rosa, Tomales, the Geysers, Cloverdale, and Clear Lake, passing on the return the Petrified Forest, Calistoga, St. Helena, Napa, and Vallejo. Oakland, the sub- urban city, in which reside many of the richest citizens of San Francisco, Mt. Diablo, the Sacramento River, Sacramento, Marysville, and Mt. Shasta may all be visited at slight expense. Numerous — once famous — gold camps abound, and the stories of their rise to importance and decline to deserts form many an interesting chapter in the tales of travelers to the Pacific coast. Southward lie Santa Clara, Pescadero, San Jose, Gilroy Springs, Pajaro. Santa Cruz, and Monterey, each charming in its own way. MONTEREY. Frequent trains and cheap rates have built up half a score of pleasure resorts south of San Francisco, but Monterey is conceded to be the most delightful. This little city overlooks the bay of the same name, and the natural beauty of its surroundings has been heightened by the expenditure of large sums of money in hotels, park.s, drives, and baths. The Hotel Del Monte, at Monterey, is the finest tourists' hotel on the Pacific coast. Excursion tickets to Monterey and return are sold in San Francisco, and as the seaside hotel is but a few hours' ride from the city it is largely patronized. LAKE TAHOE. Associated closely with these distinctively Californian resorts is Lake Tahoe, which lies on the boundary between California and Nevada, half in each State. It is fourteen miles west of Carson City, the capital of Nevada, and about the same distance from Truckee, California, on the Central Pacific Railroad. This beautiful mountain lake is thirty-five miles long, fifteen miles wide, and 1,500 feet deep. Its water is as clear as crystal and as cold as ice, and, though stand- ing at an elevation of 6,700 feet above sea-level, and surrounded by mountains whose summits are white with snow nearly the whole year, it never freezes. A very pleasant side excursion trip for overland passengers can be made by leav- ing the Southern Pacific at Reno, proceeding via Virginia & Truckee Railroad to Carson City, thence by stage to Lake Tahoe, across its surface by steamer, and return to the Southern Pacific by stage, at Truckee. On the same trip Bonanza mines at Virginia City may be visited. This excursion is short and require, but little -ime. The lake can also be visited from Truckee. and pas- sengers m haste to reach their destination need lose but one dav. Note. — For further information .see " Sights and Scenes in California," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing min- ute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in California. (144) HEALTH. is easy to write an apostrophe to health, for every one knows that its value is above rubies. Yet almost wantonly, sometimes, it is sacrificed. Nature, however, has kindly decreed that rest shall restore it, and has so endowed a favored portion of her realm that weary mortals may gather there and have brought back to them in a measure the prize they cast away. The entire Rocky Mountain region is a sanitarium. It has the sun, the mountain breeze, the crisp, mild air, which combine to invigorate and heal. There is no magic in the springs, bursting and bubbling in the canons, though the ignorant, noting their cures, might well ascribe to them a magical power. There is no magic in the healing wrought by a mountain summer, yet it recalls the day when the weak were made strong by the laying on of hands. Simply marvelous are the transforma- tions wrought by it. Its fame has gone abroad. And winter now is becoming entitled to a part of the honors. The West will soon be known as an all-the- year-round resort. It deserves to be thus known. The haze of Indian summer lingers long into the autumn, and the balminess of early autumn gives way reluctantly for the moderate rigor of the holidays. The invalid reaches a point, especially if his trouble is pulmonary, where a trip, such as is suggested above, means a new lease of life to him. If he pauses, it will soon be too late. Past a certain stage, the higher altitude of the mountains will hasten a fatal termination as surely as before that point is reached it will avert it. In reading preceding chapters, the thought will occur very properly that the out-door life hinted at therein would be most conducive to sound health. Such is the case. All conditions are favorable to such a life. The beauties of Nature prompt it and the climatic features make it agreeably possible. People are often puzzled to know why they are cured. What matters it, so that they are cured? Still some analysis may be interesting. The air of Den- ver, for instance, is exceedingly dry. Rain is rare. This air prevents matter which would ordinarily become putrid from decaying. It acts in the same manner upon diseased lungs. More than this, a greater number of cubic inches (145) 146 WESTERN RESORTS must be taken in at every breath, resulting in an expansion of the chest. It also quickens circulation wonderfully, and is about the only stimulant that gives no baneful reaction. "The empire of climate," says Montesquieu, "is the most powerful of all empires." This airy empire has been the subject of many learned dissertations, not one of which is so convincing as the roses returning to the wannest cheek or the dragging step once more light and buoyant. Probably the work of Chas. Denison, M. D., issued in 1880, is the most authentic ever published on the relations of climate and disease. Searching for the ideal clime for the pre- vention and cure of consumption, he selects the Rocky Mountain region. He gives his reasons for this and defends them from the stronghold of science and experience. He cites the humid, low resorts of Florida and the Carolinas and Texas, and shows that in none of their advantages can they compete with their high and dry rivals. If possessing any advantages, they are enervating, and more apt to bring the entire system down than to build it up. Of absolute cures there are none to place to their credit. There are many credited to the greater altitudes. The book referred to is full of tabular illustrations of the points it makes. HUNTING AND FISHING. N writing of several places, there has been incidental mention of game, but the subject deserves more specific notice. There is no excitement so thrilling and healthful as that born of the chase, and when the tremor of expectation has marred the aim, and its object flies over the hills exultant, it is genuine disappointment which follows. Hunt- ing has been reduced to a science ; but the amateur's first idea is to find his game, and, having found it, to blaze away for general results. Until some skill has been acquired by practice the results are apt to be extremely general, but never from lack of opportunity. Antelopes are tempting, albeit their human-like eyes beg with mute elo- quence from their liquid depths for life. To find them, be up early, and gun in hand, before the sun has risen; for two hours then will give more shots than all the remainder of the day, for it is then they are feeding, unconscious of danger. On the vast plains, where there is often no shrub, and where the level is like a floor, it would seem that their hiding was impossible; but there are many ravines in which they may be sheltered secure from any enemy. These same ravines permit the enemy to approach under cover. Antelope meat is sweet and tender, and really creates an appetite as it crisps over the camp fire, and sends its aroma to the outer edge of the circle of light. The flesh of the mountain sheep is regarded as superior to any other trophy of the hunt, not excepting that of elk and black-tailed deer, which, before the rare toothsome- ness of a juicy saddle, or the dripping ribs, of a young and tender mountain sheep, is found below par. The sheep may be chased into the wildest abyss, and to the loftiest mountain tops, these difficulties only tending to make the pursuit more attractive, and many to follow it would give up buffalo, antelope, elk, and deer. North Park is surrounded by such a formation as makes it a favorite place for this game. The immense horns and the bony forehead nature has given the animal often enables it to bafile the pursuer by hurling itself frcm gicidy heights and alighting on the protecting frontal Or it leaps fright- (147) 148 WESTERN RESORTS. fill chasms where no foot can follow, and if killed hy an accurate bullet would only decompose far out of reach. Buffalo are now largely confined to the plains of Wyoming and Montana, far to the north; but herds come down to within sixty miles of Cheyenne in winter. A hunter properly secreted can nearly annihilate a small herd, as the huge beasts only look around wonderingly when the one next to them is sm'tten to death. The only legitimate way to hunt them is from horseback, and now- fascinating it is then all border legends tell. There is some danger in it ; but to the hunter that danger is but an added charm. The most formidable antag- onist to be met with is the grizzly bear, which inhabits the higher ranges of the Rocky Mountains. To meet it requires a steady hand and a stout heart. The best nerve and the best weapons are not invincible. Never fire at a grizzly unless a partner is near with rifle ready poised. To come within the einbrace of its mighty paws, which with one blow can break the back of an ox, is to be crushed. And yet there is nothing to which a Nimrod will point with more pride than to a grizzly's robe, with a hole through the portion which had cov- ered the heart. This bear may be found in autumn, among the raspberry patches; but the finder will usually steal quietly away. Ten to one he has not "lost a bear." The cinnamon and common black variety attain great size, but they are lambs compared with their great cousin. The Western water-courses are most prolific of black-tailed deer, that com.e in little bands to drink just before sunrise or just after sunset. They are at home in an altitude which no other variety can endure, and graze in the high- est parks near the summits, (ienerally, four or five are together. The hunter is lucky who bags more than one. It is lower down the mountain that the whistle of the elk is heard as he plunges through the forest, with his great horns laid back. It is a delightful sound to the sportsman, who steals up for a shot in the gray of the dawn. He must keep well hidden, for the eye of the elk is keen; and to the windward, for the scent is most acute. But by enough precaution a splendid shot is obtained and some magnificent bull bounds away in an instant, and falls with a crash — strong to the last. It is then that the sportsman exults. The time was and not many years ago, that to enjoy this sport, long excur- sions were necessary by horse or wagon, but now the most perfect hunting and fishing grounds are reached by the divisions of the Union Pacific. Antelope are found on all the plains adj-acent to the Union Pacific where there is any pasture. They abound in the parks of Colorado and Wyoming, and on the plains just east of the mountains. Jack-rabbits and smaller game are met with in great numbers in the smoother portions of the mountains and on the prairies. Grizzly bear inhabit the more elevated peaks of the moun- tains, and are especially numerous in the Uintah and Wahsatch Ranges of Utah, Wyoming, and Montana. In Colorado and Idaho they lurk about the FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 1-49 rougher defiles, near the timber Hne. Black and cinnamon bear, elk, black-tailed deer, mountain sheep, and mountain lions are common to all the higher regions of the range. In Montana and Wyoming occasionally mountain goats and buf- falo are brought down. Ducks, geese, brant, antl other water-fowl can be found on the shores of all the rivers and lakes in the regions traversed by the Union Pacitic. Nearly all the mountain brooks and lakes abound in trout and other varieties of fish. The Snake River and other tributaries of the Columbia are filled with salmon. The angler can scarcely go amiss in any part of the region above named. Prairie chicken, .sage-hen, quail, snipe, and other land- birds are abundant everywhere. Eagles are picked off the peaks of the Rockies occasionally. In short, the country tributary to the Union Pacific everywhere presents attractions to the sportsman. Perhaps the most famous and favorite hunting-ground of North America to-day is that portion of Wyoming lying north and south of Rock Creek and Rawlins. In that region can be found all varieties of game, from the mountain squirrel to the grizzly bear, and from the harmless beaver to the bellowing buffalo. Transportation thither can be engaged at Cheyenne, Laramie, Rock Creek or Rawlins. Arrangements should be made for camping out, and from two to six weeks should be spent in the field to thoroughly enjoy the sport. The North Park of Colorado is another famous hunting-ground where the largest game abounds. Two hunters in one season brought fourteen large wagon-loads to market. They killed 500 ante- lope and 250 elk. Herds of 500 elk are frequently seen. The Bear River country, in Idaho, Utah, and Wyoming, has been a glorious region for disciples of the gun and rod since the earliest days of its discovery. But, as said before, the hunter or fisherman can find rare sport in almost any portion of the terri- tory tributary to the Union Pacific. Mention has been made in these pages of fishing, but the following addi- tional matter will prove of interest to the lovers of the "gentle science." Among the several varieties of food-fish which are found in the streams of Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana, Utah, Oregon, and Washington may be mentioned speckled mountain brook trout, sdver trout, black trout, common trout, bass, pike, pickerel, salmon, etc., some twenty-five or more species abounding in the Western water-courses. Particular attention is called to the speckled mountain brook trout, here so common, for it is considered the finest food-fish, as well as the " gamiest " of all the finny tribe, and consequently affords more sport to the angler. Fly fishing for trout is good during the months of July, August, September, and October. Bait fishing is generally good during the early summer. The angleworm is good bait the world over. Besides the artificial bait, which can be procured anywhere, nature provides an abundance of flies and worms along every stream, which the angler can readily find. Good trout-fields are found in Platte Canon, South Park, Middle Park, ]^50 WESTERN RESORTS. North Park, and Estes Park; in Clear Creek Canon, Green Lake near George- town, and in Boulder Canon, all in Colorado; in Blackfoot Creek near Soda Springs, Idaho; in Yellowstone National Park, and in almost all the mountain streams of Montana, Utah, Oregon, and Washingt(Mi, particularly in the north- ern streams of Idaho, around Hailey, Ketchum, and Boise City. The trout, from its extreme beauty, delicacy of flavor, and extraordinary activity as a game fish, has attracted the attention of all classes of people, from the boy with a pin-hook to those who have swayed the destiny of an empire- The divine, the philosopher, the poet, the artist, and the statesman, from the earliest dates, have enjoyed many days of recreation in his pursuit, sang songs to his praise, or written pages of instruction of their own experience in taking him from his native element. There are three different methods pursued in the capture of the trout — angling at the top, with a natural or artificial fly, grasshopper, or other small insect- at the middle, with a minnow, shrimp, or similar small fish; and at the bottom, with a worm, or different kinds of pastes. Fly Fishing. — Fly fishing is usually practiced with a short one-handed rod, from ten to twelve feet in length, or a two-handed rod from fifteen to eighteen feet in length. The first mentioned is the most common in use, and is calcu- lated for the majority of mountain streams, which are small and require but little length of rod or line. Attached to the rod should be a reel, containing from thirty to fifty yards of hair, grass, silk, or silk and hair line; the latter description should be used if it can be procured, tapering from the tenth of an inch almost to a point; to this should be attached a leader of from one to two yards in length; and finally the fly, on a light length of gut; if two or three flies are used, place them on a leader with short gut, about twenty-four inches apart. The latter description of rod is used in larger .streams, where it is neces- sary to throw a great distance; for this purpose the reel should be large enough to contain loo yards of line, with the other tackle precisely the same as with the smaller rod. It should be recollected that the trout rods should be made similar to the salmon rods, and of the lightest woods. Minnow Fishing. — The rod used in this kind of angling is from twelve to sixteen feet in length, with a stiffer top than that used for fly fishing, and goes under the name of a bait-rod. The smaller, say twelve feet, for small wading streams, and the longer for wider and deeper waters. Attached should be an American reel, holding from thirty to fifty yards of American laid-grass or silk line, with from two to three yards of silkworm gut, terminating with a Limer- ick hook, from number two to five, according to the size of the bait, fastened by a loop as before described. For baiting the minnow, pass the hook in at the mouth and out at the gills, then in again at the commencement of the dor- sal fin and out again just beyond, tying the hook at each end with a piece of FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 151 thin silk or thread. By this method a live minnow can be kept animated for a great length of time. Worm Fishing. — This is, and has been, from the earliest periods, the stand- ard mode of trout angling. It is practiced principally at the opening and clos- ing of the season by anglers generally. The rod generally used is from twelve to fifteen feet in length for small streams, and from fifteen to twenty feet (according to circumstances) for the larger. The reel and other appurtenances should be similar to that described for minnow fishing. The various fish commissioners who have supervision of the public waters, and the collection. ]")ropagation, culture, and distribution of fish, have done much to increase the numbers, varieties, and improve the quality of fish in the Western waters. POINTS OF INTEREST REACHED BY THE UNION PACIFIC. Ames Monument — Main Line — Wyoming . . .(See 'I'rip Across the Continent.) Hippopotamus Rock — Main Line — Wyoming. " " " Snow Sheds — Main Line — Wyoming " " " Dale Creek Bridge — Main Line — Wyoming... '' " " Echo Canon — Main Line— Utah " " " Weber Canon— Main Line— Utah '' " " Pulpit Rock— Main Line— Utah " " " Devil's Slide — Main Line — Utah " " " Witch Rocks — Main Line — Utah " " " Jack-in-the-Pulpit — Main Line — Utah " " " Idaho Springs (See Colorado Points.) Georgetown " " Central City " Green Lake " " The Loop " Graymont " " Breckenridge " " Dome Rock " " Cathedral Spires " " Sunset " " Boulder " Fort Collins " Loveland " " Hot Sulphur Springs " " Kenosha Hill " Mount of the Holy Cross " " The Palisades " " The Three Tetons (See Yellowstone National Park.) Fire Hole Basin " " " Camas Meadows '■ "' '' Henry's Lake " " " Manly's Cabin " " " Tyghee Pass '' " " Continental Divide " " " (152) WESTERN RESORTS loo Great Shoshone Falls (See Idaho Points.) American Falls <' Locomotive Cave " Soda Springs " Guyer Hot Springs " Hailey Hot Springs " Mt. Hood (See Dalles of the Columbia.) Multnomah Falls '• " " Hell Gate - iMemaloose Isle " " " Oneonta Falls " Castle Rock " " " Rooster Rock " " « Cape Horn " " " Crater Lake (See ( )regon Points. ) Ft. Vancouver " " Mt. Shasta (See Mt. Shasta Route.) The Rogue River Valley " " " The Siskiyous " '' " Great Salt Lake (See Utah Points.) Garfield Beach " Ogden Caiion " LTtah Hot Springs " Willard Canon '• Syracuse Beach " Giant's Cave ■ " Warm Sulphur Springs '* Beck's Hot Springs '' Mt. Nebo " Yosemite Valley (See California Points.) Mariposa and Calaveras Big Trees '* '' '* Lake Tahoe " " " Tacoma (See Portland to Puget Sound.) Seattle " •' " Port Townsend *. " " " Victoria " '* " Astoria (See l/0\ver Columbia.) Ilwaco " " " Clatsop Beadh " '< " Elevations of Principal Mountain Cities, Peaks and Passes. COLORADO. CITIES AND TOWNS. ELEVATION. [PEAKS. Alpine 9,247 [Amcro . . Alpine Tunnel 1 1 ,596 Arapahoe Black Hawk 8,o32|Audubon Boreas 11,470 Bald Boulder 5,335!Blanca . . Breckenridge 9,524 Byers Buena VisUi 7,943 Ethel Central City 8,503 Evans Denver 5,170 Gray's Dillon 8,805 Hahn's Dome Rock 6, 199 Harvard Estabrook Park 7,547 Holy Cross Ft. Collins 4,972 Irwin's Georgetown 8,476|james Golden 5,655 Long's Greeley 4,637 Massive Gunnison 7,649 Monitor Haywood Springs 8,093 Princeton Idaho Springs 7,5431 Pike's Keystone 9,i59lRosalie Leadville 10. 185 Yale Uncompahgre. ^•ATION. PASSES. ,14,245 Alpine . 13,520 Argentine ... .13,173 Berthoud . . . . . 1 1,493 Boulder . 1 4,464! Breckenridge. , i2,778jCochetopa . . . 1 1 ,976jCunningham . .14,32 1 j Fremont . 14,441! Georgia . io,9o6|Gove .14,375 Hamilton . . . . , i4,i76|Hayden . 14,336: Hoosier . 13,283 Lake Fork. . . . 14,271 Loveland . . . . . 14,298' Marshall . 1 1,270 Poncho . 14,196 Raton . i4,i47jTarryall .... . 14,340 Trout Creek . . i4,i87[Tennessee . . . . 14,419! Veta ELEVATION. 12,124 13,100 14,349 11 ,670 11,560 10,032 12,090 ii^S^S 1 1,81 1 9,500 12,370 10,780 11,500 12,540 II, 500 10,852 «,945 .... 7,«63 12,176 9,346 10.700 9,339 OREGON. PEAKS. ELEVATION. Crater Lake 7,i43 Diamond Peak 8,807 Granite Mountain 8,990 PEAKS. ELEVATION. PEAKS. ELEVATION. Mt. Hood ii,225lMt. Timber 7,5'9 Mt. Pitt 9,818 Sugar-loaf Mountain . . 8,41 5 Mt. Scott 9,016 Union Peak 7,298 WASHINGTON. Peaks. Mt. Adams . . . Mt. Baker Mt. Constance ELEVATION. 9,750; I 1,100 i,in\ Mt. Jefferson 5,657 Mt. Olympus 8,138 Mt. Skomegan 8,400 IDAHO. ELEVATION. jPEAKS. ELEVATION. Mt. St. Helen's 9,750 Mt. Tacoma 14,444 Antelope Peak. . Bannock Peak . . Blackfoot Boise City Bonanza City. . . . Cache Peak . . . . Cante Rock East Malade Mt. ELEVATION. 7,280 «,359 .... 4.503 2,885, 6,400 10,451 9,610 9,332 ELEVATION. I Estes 10,050; Galena 7»900 Grand Teton 13,691 Idaho City 4,623 Lewiston 680! Lone Cove 9,246; Meade Peak 10,541 Mt. Caribou 9,695 UTAH. ELEVATION. Mt. Garfield 9,704 Mt. Oxford 9,386 Mt. Preuss 9,979 Mt. Sherman 9,572 Oxford 4,766 Sawtelles Peak 10,013 Saw Tooth 7,000 Soda Springs 5, 780 Adams Head Anderson Peak. . . Bald Mountains. . Blue Mountain. . . Bruin Point Burro Peak Clayton's Peak. . . Cox Peak Frances Point. . . . Gilbert's Peak . . . Heber Mountain. La Motte Peak. . . Lone Peak Logan Mt. Bangs Mt. Belknap ELEVATION. 10,360 10,710 11,730 11,071 10,150 12,834 I 1,889 13,250 .... 10,430 i3,6B7 10.138 12,892 11,295 4,497 10,250 12,2001 ELEVATION. Mt. Brian 11,178 Mt. Dalton 10,480 Mt. Delano 12,240 Mt. Ellen 11,410, Mt. Emmons 13,694 Mt. Harry 11 ,300 Mt. Hodges 13,500 Mt. Horelj 10,920 Mt. Marvine 11 ,600 Mt. Nebo 11,992 Mt. Pennell 11,320 Mt. Stevenson 10,840 Mt. Waas 12,561 Midget Crest 11,414 Monroe Peak 11 ,240 (154) ELEVATION. Musinia Peak 10,940 North Logan Peak. . . . 10,004 Ogden 4,301 Pilot Peak io,yoo Point Carbon 11 ,443 Provo Peak 11 ,066 Salt Lake City 4,260 Silver City 6,013 Table Cliff 10,070 Terrell's Ridge. ...... 1 1,380 Tockewanna Peak. . . . 13,458 Tomasaki Mountain. . . 12,271 Tooele Peak 10,396 Twin Peak 11,563 Wilson's Peak I3>235 ELEVATION OF PRINCIPAL PEAKS— Continued. SOMK YELLOWSTONE PARK ELEVATIONS. ELEVATION. Amethyst Mountain. . . 9,423 Baroncltes Peak • 0,459 Beaver Lake 7,4' 5 Beulah Lake 7, 53° Bison Peak 9,038 Bunsen Peak 0,775 Crater Hills 7,820 Diinraven Peak 9,9^8 Elephant's Back 8,884 Flat Mountain 9,200 Gardner River Springs 6,500 Garnet Hill 7,177 Gibbon Geyser 7,527 Gibbon Lake 7,838 Grizzly Mountain 9>982 Haystack Mountain... 7,689 ELEVATION.! Heart Lake 7,475! Hell Roaring Mountain 8,418! Herring Lake 7>53o| Lake Lewis 7,8oo, Lower Geyser Basin. . . 7,250 Mary's Lake 8,336 Mt. Crittenden 10,190 Mt. Doanc 10,713 Mt. Evarts 7, 600: Mt. Holmes 10,528! Mt. Langford 10,779 Mt. Norris 10,019 Mt. Sheridan 10,385 Mt. Stevenson 10,420 Mt. Washburne 10,3461 Mud Geysers 7)7251 ELEVATION. N'th Twin Butte (Lr.BigiB) 7,976 Pelican Hill 9,580 Promontory Top 8,706 Quadrant Mountain . . . 10,127 Red Mountains 9,777 Riddle Lake 8,000 Shoshone Geyser Basin 7,837 Shoshone Lake 7,830 Smoothface Mountain. 10,500 Soda Hill 9,518 South Twin Butte.. .. 7,977 Specimen Ridge 8,806 Turrett Mountain 11,142 Upper Geyser Basin. . . 7,400 Yellowstone Lake 7,738 WYOMING. PEAKS. ELEVATION. ' Fremont's Peak 13,790 Snow's Peak i3)57o Mt. Hooker 12,900 Wind River Peak I3)499 Atlantic Peak 12,794 West Atlantic Peak. .. 12,634 Mt Genie 12,546 Mt. Moran 12,800 Washakie Needle 12,253 Medicine Peak 12,231 Mt. Chauvenet 13,000 PEAKS. Index Peak Younts Peak Union Peak Wyoming Peak . . , Elk Mountain. . . . , Uelham Peak. . . , Coffin Mountain. . . Chimney Rock Grosventure Peak. Mt. Leidy Laramie Peak ... ELEVATION.] 1,702 ELEVATION. 1,700 1,593 1,490 1,511 1,524 1.376 i,«53 1,570 1,177 1,000 Gd. Encampm't Mt'n. .11,003 Mill Peak 10,506 Sailor Mountain 10,046 Virginia Peak 10,044 Volcanic Comb 10,583 HobockPeak 10,818 Mt. Baird 9.99° Bald Mountain 9.897 Bradley's Peak 9,500 Young's Peak 9,000 MONTANA. CITIES AND TOWNS. ELEVATION. Helena 3,93o Butte 5,482 Deer Lodge 4,527 Virginia City 2,824] Missoula 3,900 Argenta 6,337 Bozeman 4,900 PKAKS. ELEVATION. PASSES. ELEVATION. Bridger's 9 000 Deer Lodge 5,808 Emigrant 10,629 Flathead 6,769 Electric 10,992 Bridger 6,147 Liberty 9,162 Lewis and Clarke. .. . 6,323 Blackmore 10, 134 Little Blackfoot 6,250 Delano 10,200 Mullen 5)98o Sphinx io,88o| Madison 6,91 1 CALIFORNIA^ " PEAKS. Mt. Adams Mt. Anderson Mt. Bidwell Bruin Pass Mt. Brewer Castle Peak . . . . Clark Peak Conner's Peak . . . Mt. Corcoran Coryo Peak Mt. Dana . Dunderberg Peak . Echo Peak Mt. Elephant . . . . Fisherman's Peak k'ATION. • 8,431 , 9,000 , 8,551 10,150 .13,886 ,12,500 .11,295 .12,518 ■ 14,093 .11,326 .13,227 12,289 1 1,231 . 10,418 14,448 PEAKS. E Grizzly Peak Highland Peak .... Hoffman Peak Kaweah Peak Lasseus Butte Mt. Lyell McBride's Peak . . . Mt. Merde Meadow Mountain . Mt. Merced Olancho Peak Pyramid Mountain. Red State Peak San Antonio Peak. . . I'ATION. •11,723 ,10,9561 . 10,872 . 14,000 •10,577 .13,217 .13,441 . 10,540 •11,734 11,413 ,12,250 • 10,127 . 13,400 10,191 PEAKS. ELEVATION. San Bernardino Mt 11 ,600 San Jacinto 10,987 Mt. Shasta I4,442 Mt. SiUiman 11,623 Mt. Silver 10,934 Sonora Mountain 1 1,478 Stevens Mountain lo.oii Sunday Peak 11, 089 Sweetwater Mountain ..11 ,778 Telescope Mountain. . .10,937 Mt. Washington 10,802 Waucoba Peak 1 1 ,267 Mt. Whitney 14,898 Woods Peak 10,553 ALASKA. PEAK. ELEVATION. Mt. Cook .... 15,900 to 16.000 Mt, Crillon 15,900 Mt. Perouse 11 ,300 PEAK. ELEVATION. PEAK. ELEVATION. Mt. St. Elias. 17,854 to 19,500 Mt. Fairw'ther 14,708 to 15,500 Mt. llliaminsk 12,066 Mt. Unalaska 5,961 Mt. Shishaldin 8,683! Mt. Verstova. .__ 3.374 {155) STANDARD PUBLICATIONS BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC SYSTEM. The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific System will take pleasure in forwarding to any address, free of charge, any of the following publications, provided that with the application is inclosed the amount of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and pamphlets are fresh from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, and accurate as regards the region ol country described. They will be found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and authority on the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire of the West. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and health seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and the invalid. The Western Resort BooU. Send 6 cents for postage. This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific System. Every health resort, mountain retreat, watering-place, hunter's paradise, .etc, etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and complete detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, I^eavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a complete itinerary of the journej' from either of these points to the Pacific Coast. Stsrhts ami Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. There are six pamphlets in this set, pocket-folder size, illustrated, and are descriptive of tours to par- ticular points. The set comprises " Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and Montana; California ; Oregon and Washington ; Alaska. Each pamphlet deals minutely with every resort of pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found bright and interesting reading for tourists. Vest Pocfcet Memorandnni Rook. Send 2 cents for postage. A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the farmer, business man, traveler and tourist. Compreliensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. A set of pamphlets on Kansas, Colorado, Texas, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. These books treat of the resources, climate, acreage, minerals, grasses, soil, and pro- ducts of these various empires on an extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive treatise of the capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very carefully compiled, and the information collated from Official Reports, actual settlers, and residents of the different States and Territories. Theatrical Diary. Send lo cents for postage. For the Theatrical Profession Only. This is a Theatrical Diary for 1S91-92, bound in Turkey Morocco, gilt tops, and contains a list of nearly 300 theatres and opera houses reached by the Union Pacific System, seating capacity, size of stage, terms, newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the theatrical pro- fession. Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage. A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and compiled from the latest surveys ; just published ; size, 46x66 inches ; railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. Stream, Sonnd and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage. A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from Portland, Ore., to The Dalles of the Colum- bia, Astoria, Clat.sop Beach ; through the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget Sound, and up the coast to Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for the tourist. (156) From Summerland to tbe Americkan Alpw. Send 4 cents for postage. This is a short description of the magnificent Panhandle country of Texas, recently made a part of the Union Pacific system. It will be found a handy volume for tourists who intend visiting the South during the winter. IVonderfiil Story. Send 2 cents for postage. The romance of railway building. The wonderful storj- of the early surveys and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper by General G. M. Dodge, read before the Society of the Army of the Tennessee. September, 1888. General Sherman pronounced this document fascinatingly interesting and of great historical value, and vouched for its accuracy. Oiin €liib Rules and Revi!«ed Game I^aws. Send 2 cents for postage. This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all the Western States and Territories. It also contains the various gun-club rules, together with a guide to all Western localities where game of whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. ♦* The 01de«it Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for po.stage. This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from life. It is characterized by .strong drawing and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome acquisition for parlor or library. Crofntt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send |i.oo. This book has just been issued. It graphically describes everj^ point, giving its history, population, business resources, etc.. etc., on the line of the Union Pacific System, between the Missouri River and the Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start We.st without a copy in his possession. It furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the country traversed by the Union Pacific System and cannot fail to be of great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining complete information about the points to be visited. A Glimpse of Great Salt Iiake. Send 4 cents for postage. This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious inland sea, beautifully illus- trated with original sketches by the well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. The startling phenomena of .sea and cloud and light and color are finely portrayed. This book touches a new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake never before having been described and pictured. General Folder. No postage required. A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This publication gives con- densed through time tables ; through car service ; a first-class map of the United States, west of Chicago and St. Louis ; important baggage and ticket regulations of the Union Pacific System, thus making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent in selling through tickets over the Union Pacific. The Pathfinder. No postage required. A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards ; containing a complete list of stations with the altitude of each ; also connections with Western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car ser\-ice ; baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket regulations, which will prove of great value as a ready reference for ticket agents to give passengers information about the local branches of the Union Pacific System. (157) Fold-out Placeholder This fold-out is being digitized, and will be inserted at future date. Z- o^ '^ '^ lid c