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^ Priscilla [ 
 
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 /#This Book 
 
 Contains Upwards 
 of 1500 Fancy Work 
 Designs — 
 
 Price 10 Cents 
 
 WHY IT WAS PUBLISHED 
 
 For many years The Modern Priscilla {the leading 
 fancij-ivork magazine of America) has given its readers each 
 month a large number of rarely beautiful original designs for 
 every use that Art Needlework can be put to. Also Priscilla 
 has given to the world during past years an endless variety of 
 designs for that easy, fascinating and most effective work — 
 Steneiling. 
 
 Until recently, however, these designs were available 
 only for those who possessed copies of the magazines in which 
 they were originally published. But so great was the demand 
 for a catalogue, that the editors of The Modern Priscilla 
 were finally persuaded to make a careful compilation of all 
 designs that the test of time had proved to be of exceptional 
 merit, and thus it was that The Prisrilla FancU'Win-k Cata- 
 logue came into existence. 
 
 WHAT IT CONTAINS 
 
 In this book will be found upwards of 1500 designs. 
 Ever>' kind of embroidery used by modern neodleworkers is 
 represented, and whether it be simple work that you desire, 
 or elaborate and complex, somewhere on these pages you 
 will find exactly the thing you are looking for. 
 
 HOLIDAY NOVELTIES 
 
 There are desii^ns for Holiday Novelties, suitable for gifts 
 for all occasions, such as Glove. Tie and Handkerchief Cases 
 
 — Powder, Soap, Sponge and Jewelry Bags and Cases — Veil. 
 Stamp and Comb and Brush Cases — Whisk Broom Holders, 
 Shaving Pads, Penwipers, and Pincushions of all shapes and 
 sizes — Pin Books and Pin Balls — Needlebooks and Calendars 
 
 — Post Card. Darning Cotton and Teapot Holders— Book 
 Racks, Note Books, and Magazine Covers — Sewing Cases. 
 Suspended, Work Bags, Opera Bags, Sachet Bags and Collar 
 Bags — Candle Shades, Photograph Frames, Napkin Rings 
 and Napkin Holders. 
 
 DRESSGARNITURE AND HOUSEHOLD LINENS 
 
 In another section will be found a beautiful assortment of 
 Stocks. Dutch Collars and Jabots, and following it, a showing 
 of Fancy Aprons in a wide variety of shapes and styles. 
 Further along some Embroidered Belts, with 20 designs to 
 choose from, and 45 exquisite designs for Embroidered Hose. 
 Then follow dozens of designs for Towel Ends, scores of de- 
 signs for Centrepieces. Doilies and Lunch Cloths, still more 
 designs for Bureau, Sideboard, Table and Piano Scarfs, an/1 
 pages of designs for Pillow Covers. 
 
 LINGERIE AND BABY CLOTHES 
 
 Still other pages show Insertion and Edging designs, de- 
 signs for Nightgowns. Corset Covers, Combinations, Shirt 
 Waists and Costumes, designs for Babies' One-piece Nightin- 
 gales, Baby Bonnets, Yokes and Little Dresses, Bibs, Shoes, 
 Hats and Collars. 
 
 A BIG STENCILING SECTION 
 
 In the section devoted to Stenciling will be found instruc- 
 tions for mixing and applying colors, and over 200 different 
 designs that may be used for every conceivable kind of deco- 
 ration to which stenciling is applicable. 
 
 m; aterials and accessories 
 
 * •■ » Finally, ten different styles of letters for marking house- 
 ' hold linens are shown, and all sorts of embroidery materials 
 and accessories are pictured and listed. 
 
 THE PRICE A NOMINAL ONE 
 
 This book might easily be worth ten times its small cost 
 to any woman interested in Needlework, but it is not the 
 desire of the publishers to make money on the sale of the 
 book, only to cover the cost of production and distribution. 
 Therefore, it is offered to all who desire it, at the nominal 
 price of 10 cents per copy, postpaid. 
 
 FREE 
 
 The section of the above catalogue devoted to all kinds of embroidery ma- 
 terials and accessories, a mine of useful information for needleworkers, w'ill 
 be sent on request, free of charge, to any address. 
 
 The Priscilla Publishing Co., 85 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 
 
Mool Crochet J?oofe 
 
 A SELECTION OF USEFUL ARTICLES FROM 
 THE MODERN PRISCILLA 
 
 WITH 
 
 SEVERAL NEW DESIGNS 
 
 NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 LOLA BURKS HETTICH 
 1908 
 
 REVISED 19 12 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 85 BROAD STREET. BOSTON. MASS. 
 
 Copyright, 1912, by The Priscilla Publishing Company 
 
 Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 
 
 Entered at Stationers' Hall. London 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Articles for Women 
 
 Star Stitch 3 
 
 Knot Stitch 4 
 
 Staple Work 4 
 
 Square Shawl 4 
 
 Ladies' Petticoat 5 
 
 Neck Protector 6 
 
 Rainbow Scarf 6 
 
 Ladies' Hood in Staple Work 7 
 
 Cotton Skirt 8 
 
 Evening Cape 9 
 
 Ladies' Mittens 9 
 
 Nightingale 10 
 
 Knee Cap 10 
 
 Ripple Shawl 11 
 
 Auto Scarf 12 
 
 Ladies' Slippers 12 
 
 Auto Priscilla Hood 13 
 
 Ladies' Jacket 14 
 
 Ladies' Cape 16 
 
 Shawl 17 
 
 Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch 18 
 
 Ladies' Shawl 18 
 
 Slumber Slippers 19 
 
 Fascinator 20 
 
 Fascinator in Staple Work 20 
 
 Circular Shawl 21 
 
 Silk Slippers 22 
 
 Scarf 23 
 
 Golf Vest 24 
 
 Kimono 24 
 
 Articles for Babies and Children 
 
 Brownie Hood 26 
 
 Carriage Afghan 2j 
 
 Bib 27 
 
 Infant's Band 28 
 
 Bootees 28 
 
 Bonnet 29 
 
 Cap 29 
 
 Cap 30 
 
 Cap 31 
 
 Hood 32 
 
 Shawl T^z 
 
 Bootees 33 
 
 Petticoat 2,}, 
 
 Bed Socks 34 
 
 Socks 34 
 
 Socks 35 
 
 Bath Robe ^d 
 
 Nightingale n 
 
 Mittens 38 
 
 Mittens 38 
 
 ^a^k 39 
 
 Bootees 39 
 
 Bali 39 
 
 Cloak 40 
 
 SUppers 40 
 
 HQt)d 41 
 
 Napoleon Hat 41 
 
 Napoleon Cap 42 
 
 Cap 43 
 
 Bib 43 
 
 Carriage Afghan 44 
 
 Sack 
 Sack 
 Sack 
 Sack 
 Sack 
 
 44 
 
 45 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 CCl.A3'<Jt)134 
 
I Articles for Women | 
 
 Explanation of Stitches 
 
 Chain Stitch (ch st). Make a series of loops, drawing eacli 
 
 loop through the preceding one. 
 Slip Stitch (si st). Insert the hook into the stitch, draw the 
 
 wool through that stitch and through the wool on hook at 
 
 the same time. 
 Single Crochet (s c). Insert the hook, draw wool through, 
 
 pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through 
 
 both loops on the hook. 
 Double Crochet (d c). Pass the wool around the hook, insert 
 
 the hook, draw wool through: pass the wool around the 
 
 hook, and draw the wool through 2 loops, wool over, and 
 
 again through 2 loops. 
 
 Star Stitch 
 
 Star stitch, when correctly made, is one of the best 
 and prettiest stitches in crocheting, being suitable for 
 almost every article crocheted of silk or wool where 
 a close stitch is wanted. It is one of the simplest 
 stitches in crochet and yet one of the hardest to 
 give directions for, as no two persons will make it 
 alike, and a little difference in the working of the 
 
 Star Stitch 
 
 stars may necessitate the putting in or leaving out 
 of a number of extra stars in a row. The great- 
 est difference is made in taking the stitches off the 
 hook, some pulling the stitches one way and some 
 another. It is advisable for any one working 
 Stat stitch for the first time to work a sample 
 strip of single zephyr Crochet a ch of 24 sts 
 Without throwing over the wool, skip the st 
 next to the hook and draw the wool through the 2d. 
 keeping both sts on the hook Take up tlie 3d. 4th. 
 and 5th sts the same wav, making 5 sts on the 
 hook These sts must be quite loose and must 
 be the same length Throw over the wool and 
 take off all 5 sts together and finish the star 
 with I ch to hold it together. Now put the hook 
 in the ist st of the star going down the side, it 
 
 Half Double Crochet (h d c). Pass the wool around the hook, 
 insert the hook, draw wool through; pass the wool around 
 the hook, and draw the wool through all 3 loops at once. 
 
 Long Crochet (1 c). Pass the wool around the hook, insert, 
 draw wool through; pass the wool around the hook, and 
 draw it through 1 loop, wool over, then through 2, wool 
 over, then again through 2. 
 
 Treble Crochet (t c or tr c). Pass the wool around the hook 
 twice, insert the hook, draw the wool through; pass the 
 ' und the hook, draw through 2 loops. 
 
 again through 2 loops, 
 
 the 
 
 again through 
 
 being a short st and called the eye of the star, 
 draw the wool through, then through back thread 
 of the next st of the star, it being a long st; then 
 take up the next 2 sts of the ch, making 5 sts as 
 before; draw the wool through all at once and work 
 the I ch to finish the star. Repeat until you have 
 ten stars. Crochet an e.xtra chain stitch and clip 
 the wool. 2d row — Draw the wool through ch st 
 at beginning of ist star, tie once. Chain 3, skip 
 1st and take up 2d and 3d. Now notice there is a 
 long and short st in the top of every star of the 
 1st row. Take up the back thread of the long st 
 and both threads of the short st There will now 
 be 5 sts on the hook. Proceed as before, working 
 a star over every star of the preceding row. Work 
 four or five rows in this way Now notice if your 
 work at the ends is perfectly straight. If it slopes 
 at the end where the wool is clipped off, you will 
 have to work an e.xtra star to keep it even, until 
 you have learned how to take your sts off the hook 
 properly Don't forget this. It is generally caused 
 by keeping the 1st st tight upon the hook when it 
 should be loosest of all There are two ways to 
 widen star stitch. First IVay. — Four sts only are 
 taken up. the short and long one down the side of 
 the preceding star and the fourth one in the short 
 st into which was put the last st of the preceding 
 star. Sometimes two extra stars are put in this 
 same stitch, and the term used is wi 2. Scco)id 
 Way. — Take up the short and long st down the 
 side of preceding star and the long st of star under- 
 neath, making 4 sts Take off as before, making 
 one star Now take up short and long st down side 
 and short st of star underneath This makes two 
 stars over one of preceding row, and the term 
 used is wi by 2 over i. 
 
 To Work St./^r Stitch in Circle. — Chain 4 on 
 which work i star ot 4 sts. Proceed as for widen- 
 ing Stat stitch, working 7 stars ot 4 sts each the 
 4th st of all 7 stars being taken in same ch as the 4th 
 ot 1st star. Join last star by si st to ist. 
 
Wav of Working Star Stitch in Circle 
 
 2d rots.'. — Work i star of 5 sts over ist star of 
 1st row, wi I star. Repeat around circle. 
 
 In the 3(f ctnc widen every 2 stars and so on as 
 directed. 
 
 Knot Stitch 
 
 Work the foundation chain as called for in the 
 directions for garment. Draw a loop out to about 
 one-half inch, draw thread through, thus forming 
 a long chain stitch, insert the hook in this long 
 chain, separating the loop first drawn out, from the 
 strand formed when thread was drawn through, and 
 work a s c, draw out another loop same length, draw 
 
 Knot Stitch 
 
 thread through, s c as before, skipping the required 
 number of stitches in foundation, s c in next. 
 This is a group of knot stitch; some crocheters 
 refer to it as knot stitch, and others to knot stitch 
 as just half tlie group. Repeat as many times as 
 directed. At end of row, work one group and a 
 
 half, turn, and s c on each side of the s c at centre, 
 or catch by s c into top of same, as some directions 
 call for. 
 
 Staple Work 
 
 Also called Hairi-ix Work and .Maltese Crochet 
 
 Either buy or have made of good stiff wire, a 
 staple 6 inches long and the desired width between 
 prongs, a one and one-half inch staple being the 
 most desirable. Tie wool around open end and let 
 the finished work slip toward closed end of staple. 
 When the staple is full slip the work off and roll 
 up, tying it to staple to keep it from twisting, first 
 slipping back on the staple the last two loops on 
 both sides. 
 
 Holding the staple so there 
 is a right and left prong, insert 
 the crochet-hook under the loop 
 on left prong and draw wool 
 through cli, which commences 
 the work. Slipping the hook 
 over the right prong, turn the 
 staple over toward you, wrap- 
 ping wool around the left prong 
 as you do so. This will make 
 the left prong now the right 
 one. The crochet-hook must al- 
 ways be inserted under the wool 
 on the left prong from the side 
 toward you. Draw the wool 
 through as above, which gives 
 you two loops on the hook. 
 Take off as in single crochet. 
 
 In the old way of working toward the closed 
 end of staple, the hook had to be taken out each 
 time the staple was turned and inserted again. 
 In working toward the open end it is just slipped 
 over and is ready when the staple is turned. If a 
 heavier centre is desired insert the hook under the 
 left prong twice, making two single crochets. 
 
 Staple Work 
 
 Square Shawl 
 
 Chain eight stitches and join in ring. 
 
 1st row — Chain 5, work I s c in 2d ch, ch 5, I s C 
 in 4th ch, ch 5, i s c in 6th ch, ch 5, I s c in 8th. 
 
 2d roiv — Chain 5, i s c in 1st of 5 ch just made, 
 ch 5. I s c in 1st group of previous row, ch 5, I s c 
 in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 3, i s c in next group of 
 1st row, ch 5, I s c in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 5, 
 I s c in next group of ist row, ch 5, I s c in ist of 
 5 ch just made, ch 5, s c in last group. This forms 
 the corners. 
 
3d rou — Chain 5, l s c in 3d ch of 5 which forms 
 corner, ch 5. i s c in ist of 5 ch just made, ch 5, i 
 s c in 1st group of 2d row, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch 
 at corner, ch 5, s c in ist of ch just made, ch 5, i 
 
 Begin the front gore with 42 ch, turn, and, be- 
 ginning in the 3d st from the hook, work a half- 
 double crochet ( h d c) in each chain stitch. For 
 the 2d row, ch 2, work a h d c in base of the 2 ch, 
 then in every h d c of the 1st row. 
 The following rows are worked the 
 same as the 2d row — the st in the 
 base of the 2 ch making the widen- 
 ing in each row. Skirt is 94 rows 
 deep. 
 
 For the side gore begin with 38 
 ch and proceed as in the front gore 
 except at the side which joins the 
 front. This side is kept straight by 
 omitting the st in the base of the 2 
 ch. Work the same number of rows 
 as in the front, then work the sec- 
 ond side gore same as the first. 
 
 For the back, ch 147. Work back 
 and forth the same as in the other 
 sections, omitting the widening on 
 the sides, thus keeping both edges straight. 
 Work 68 rows clear across, then for the next 26 
 rows work 72 back and forth each side of the 
 placket. 
 
 Fasten the wool in the right corner of the 
 placket, and work a row of shells all around — 
 each shell of 4 d c. joined by a s c. 
 
 Square Shawl 
 
 s c in 2d group, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch at corner, 
 ch 5, s c in 1st of ch just made, ch 5. I s c in 3d 
 group in 2d row, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch at corner, 
 ch 5, I s c in 1st of ch just made. Work 36 rows 
 like 3d. 
 
 For ring border — * Chain 2, wind wool around 
 finger 12 times, in ring thus formed work 2 s c, then 
 2 ch, 2 s c in 1st ch of 36th row. Repeat from * 
 all around shawl. 
 
 Work 4 more rows of ch like 36th row, catching 
 the 1st of the 4 into rings with 2 s c. 
 
 Work 2d row of rings like 1st, tiien 4 more 
 rows of ch like 36th row. 
 
 For fringe — * Chain 14, s c in 2d st of 5 ch, ch 
 14, s c in 4th of 5 cli. * Repeat from * all around 
 shawl. 
 
 Ladies' Petticoat 
 
 Materials. — Twelve skeins of cream-white Shetland floss, 2 
 yards of No. 4 ribbon, and a medium-sized bone crochet- 
 hook. 
 
 This petticoat is made in four pieces — the front 
 gore, two side gores, and the straight back. The 
 work is done in half double stitch, made by throw- 
 ing wool over hook, taking a stitch through the 
 chain, then drawing wool through the 3 stitches on 
 the hook. Take the stitches through the back and 
 front ones beneath. 
 
 LAy)iES' Petticoat 
 
 Join the gores by placing the straight edges of 
 the side gores to the front, and the back joined 
 
to the bias edges of the side gores. Use the slip- 
 stitch in joining the gores, being careful to have 
 the ribs match. 
 
 Begin at the left corner of the placket with ch 
 5, and work a row of t c with 
 
 1 ch between in e\ery alter- 
 nate stitch of the top of the 
 skirt. This row is for the 
 ribbon. 
 
 The border is crocheted on 
 the lower edge of tlie skirt. 
 For the 1st row make a s c 
 in every stitch of the edge. 
 
 2d rozv ■ — * Chain 5, skip 2 
 st, s c in next st, ch 3. skip i, 
 s c in next st, * repeat from 
 the * across the row. 
 
 3</ row — Chain 2, * i d c in 
 ch 5 of 2d row. d c in next ch 
 5. (ch 2, d c) 3 times in the 
 same ch 5. Repeat from * to 
 end of the row. 
 
 4//i row — * Chain 4, s c be- 
 tween the 1st and 21I d c of 
 tlie 4 d c beneath, cli 4, s c be- 
 tween the 3d and 4th d c of the same group of d c. 
 Repeat from * to end of the row. Repeat the 3d 
 and 4th rows each 3 times. 
 
 The last row is made of 6 d c with 2 ch between 
 into the 4 ch, fasten with s c into next 4 ch and 
 repeat to end of the row. 
 
 These directions make a skirt 29 inches long and 
 
 2 1-2 yards wide at the lower edge. By making 
 the skirt in gores there is no extra fulness around 
 the hips. This garment is about right for a 24-inch 
 waist, and may be increased or decreased at the 
 beginning of the gores. 
 
 the row, widening in every loth st as in the first 
 row. 
 
 The 5//; and 6th ro7vs are repetitions of the 2d 
 and 3d rows. 
 
 Neck Protector 
 
 TERIALS. — Four skeins of Germantown. 
 3 yards of No. 5 satin ribbon. 
 
 fkein Sa 
 
 Begin at the neck with a chain of 74 stitches, 
 turn, work s c in 3d st from the hook and in each 
 of the next * 9 chains, 2 s c in the loth st, and repeat 
 from * to end of the row. The 2 s c in every lotli 
 st makes the widenings. 
 
 2d row — Chain I, turn, s c in each s c of the first 
 row, taking up both stitches. 
 
 3(/ I'ow — Chain 2, turn, and in each s c of the 
 second row work a imff stitch as follows : Throw 
 wool over hook as for d c, take a st through the s c, 
 throw wool over again, take up another st in 
 same place, this makes 5 sts on the hook, then 
 draw wool through all the sts on the hook, and 
 fasten by a s c. 
 
 4th row — Chain i. turn, s c in each of the first 
 9 puffs, 2 s c in the loth puff. Repeat to end of 
 
 Neck Protector 
 
 The next 18 rozcs are repetitions of the first three 
 rows. 
 
 Fasten wool in the right corner of the neck, ch 3, 
 work d c in every alternate st of the neck with i 
 ch between the d c — this makes the spaces through 
 wliich tlie ribbon is run. 
 
 For the border fasten the wool at left corner of 
 tlie bottom (ch i, 2 d c, ch i, 2 d c, ch 1, 2 d c, ch 
 I, 2 d c) between the 2d and 3d puffs, ch i, s c be- 
 tween the 4th and 5th puffs. Repeat the above 
 shells all around the protector. 
 
 21/ ri>;, — Chain 2, 3 d c in the first ch I of the 
 shell, ch I, 3 d c in next ch i. ch i. 3 d c in next ch 
 I, ch 2. s c in the s c between the shells. Repeat 
 across the row. 
 
 Last ro7c — Chain i. 3 d c in first ch i, fasten 
 with a s c in second d c of the first group, 3 d c in 
 t!ic next ch i, s c in middle d c of the next group, 
 and repeat across the row. Tliis makes a fluted 
 I .order. 
 
 Run ribbon through the spaces at the neck, leav- 
 ing ends to tie. Fasten ribbons in the middle of 
 tlie front and at the lower corners to tie 
 
 This is very pretty and useful to wear under the 
 wrap as a protection for the neck and shoulders. 
 
 Rainbow Scarf 
 
 Either Saxony or floss may be used for this work, 
 about si.x skeins of white and half a skein of each 
 of the colors used being required. The stitch used 
 is original and is easy to do, fluffy in effect, will 
 
keep its shape well. Use a medium-sized bone hook 
 and work as follows : 
 
 Chain 68 sts of the white, ist row — Turn and 
 work back thus: Draw out st on hook to about 3-4 
 
 Rainbow Scarf 
 
 of an inch, pass hook under the single thread of 
 wool, draw through st, pass it under wool, work 
 a si st, I ch (in this way you work first st of 
 every row). To make second st * pass hook 
 through second, draw up to three-fourths of an inch, 
 catch the wool and make 2 close ch ; repeat from * 
 to end of chain. Turn and repeat from first row 
 till you have worked 76 rows in the white wool. 
 
 To make the rainbow stripe — Fasten in the red 
 wool and work two rows, then, in the order named, 
 — orange, yellow, light green, dark green, indigo, 
 light blue, violet. Finish the end with two or more 
 rows of white. 
 
 To make the fring,? — * Chain 35. fasten down in 
 next st with a si st ; repeat from * to end of row. 
 Finish both edges of the scarf with a row of knot 
 stitch. 
 
 Ladies' Hood in Staple Work 
 
 The lining of this hood may be made of any 
 of the heavier wools and in any close stitch. In the 
 illustration it is made of Germantown, in star 
 stitch. Of this material it takes two skeins. Four- 
 fold zephyr would be softer and about as warm. 
 and five skeins would be required. The outside 
 is made of two-fold zephyr on an inch and a half 
 staple, and it takes two skeins. One ball of silk 
 will make the edge. 
 
 For the lining — Chain 5 ; work a row of 7 stars 
 of 4 loops each, and fasten in top of ist star by 
 slip stitch. 2d rozv — Widen every other star as in 
 
 detail and continue increasing one star every row 
 between widenings until you widen every 8 stars 
 in gtli rozv. In lolh row widen at centre top, and 
 back. Crochet 3 rows around plain and then, 
 leaving off 6 stars at back, crochet 
 8 rows across front without widen- 
 ing. (See detail star st, page 3.) 
 For the outside, crochet a whole 
 skein on the staple. Cut off 60 
 loops, counting loops on one side 
 only. Draw a piece of wool 
 through loops on one side of strip 
 and tie tightly, which forms the 
 centre. Join 2d roiv to this by 
 drawing 2 loops of centre through 
 4 of strip. Fasten ends together 
 as neatly as possible. 3</ ran' — 
 Draw 3 of centre through 4 of 
 strip. 4th rozv — Draw 3 of cen- 
 tre through 3 of strip. These 
 four rows should run clear 
 around crown. The next three 
 should be joined to each other by 
 3 loops and also to centre, leav- 
 ing off 20 loops of centre at back. 
 Pin the outside in place over the lining. Crochet 
 the other skein up for frill and join to hood thus: 
 Chain 3, catch by s c first into hood then into 5 
 
 Ladies' Hood in Staple Wokk and Star Stitch 
 
loops of strip, making it as full as desired. A 
 pretty finish is a strip of the staple work sewed 
 on where frill joins hood. An edge of silk 
 is then crocheted around the edge of frill and 
 around both sides of strip sewed on. by crocheting 
 chain 5 and catching in two loops of staple work. 
 In this design the strip sewed on above frill is made 
 on a smaller staple. 
 
 Cotton Skirt 
 
 This skirt is for a 26-inch waist and 46-inch hip 
 measure. Use No. 8 tidy cotton and make a chain 
 to go around the hips. In this skirt it was 323 chain 
 which made 106 spaces. 
 
 1st row. — A d c into the sixth ch from hook (2 ch, 
 a d c in 3d ch) repeat until there are 106 spaces in 
 row. 
 
 COTTON Skirt 
 
 2d roiv. — Three ch to turn, then 3 d c in each space. 
 
 2,(1 row. — Three ch, 2 d c in 2 d c (take up both 
 loops to make it strong), 3 ch, miss 3 d c, 3 d c in a 
 row. Repeat to the end. 
 
 4//! rozi.'. — Three d c on 3 d c and 3 ch between. 
 Repeat this row 20 times, which makes it long enough 
 for the placket. 
 
 Pin the ends over each other four spaces for the 
 placket and in the next row work through it at once, 
 this fastens, join on the beginning of the row. After 
 making the placket work five rows around the same 
 as before, only joining each time to the beginning of 
 row. 
 
 1st rozv of flounce. — Begin with 9 d c in a row, 
 start from a solid block, if you do not end on one 
 then slip stitch to one. Chain 3 and 2 d c in the block. 
 3 in the space and 3 on the ne.xt block, the 3 ch on 
 the end counts as a d c ; a butterfly scallop in ne.xt 
 space made of 3 ch, now 5 d c in the space, but only 
 worked off to the last loop imtil the last is made, then 
 cotton over and draw all the loops together, 5 ch and 
 again 5 d c in the same space worked off the same 
 way as before, 3 ch and 9 d c in a row, three on the 
 blocks and three on the space ; 3 ch and pass over the 
 open space and begin from the beginning but without 
 the 3 ch. Repeat until you have 13 butterfly 
 scallops, join on the three chain. 
 
 2d row of flounce. — Slip stitch over one d c, 3 ch 
 and 6 d c on 6 d c and 3 d c on the 3 ch, making 10 
 d c with the 3 ch in a row. * Now a butterfly scallop in 
 the centre of the one below; 10 d c in a row, begin- 
 ning with three under the 3 ch and 7 d c on 7 d c, I 
 ch, miss 2 d c, I d c in the space, I ch, miss 2 d c on 
 other side, now 10 d c in a row and repeat from * all 
 around. Join on the 3 ch. 
 
 3(i ro'i.' of flounce. — Same as the second row except 
 only missing I d c on each side of the indent, so 
 that it makes 12 d c in a row on each side of the but- 
 terfly scallop, and a d c on the d c in the indent. Re- 
 peat this row seven times more. Of course the d c in- 
 crease in nimiber each row. 
 
 iith rocc. — No increasing is done after this. Work 
 as before but miss 3 d c on both sides of the indent. 
 Work 7 rows like it. 
 
 Scallops in the indents between points. — Fasten 
 cotton in the 4th d c on right side of indent; ch 3, 
 a scallop of 6 d c in the d c between points, 3 ch, a 
 slip-stitch in opposite 4th d c. 
 
 _'(/ roiv. — Slip stitch up 4 d c, turn, 3 ch, 3 d c 
 under 3 ch. one d c on each of 6 d c, 3 d c under 3 ch, 
 3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c on point. 
 
 jrf roll'. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch. 3 d c under 
 3 ch, (3 ch, 3 d c on 3 d c), three times more; 3 ch, 
 3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c of point. 
 
 4//1 row. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch, 3 d c under 
 3 ch, ( now 3 ch and 3 d c over each 3 d c ) four 
 times in this rciw ; 3 ch. 3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch 
 in 4th d c on point. 
 
 Repeat this 4th row five times more which will fill 
 the indent between points. The last should be fast- 
 ened right in the centre of the butterflies. Without 
 breaking the cotton slip stitch down the side of the 
 point to the last 4th d c and repeat from the begin- 
 ning. 
 
 I5order the scallops with butterfly scallops made 
 like this: 
 
 Fasten cotton on centre of a point, ch 3. 5 d c 
 worked off to the last loop until last is made then 
 draw cotton through all the loops, make in first 3 ch 
 space, 4 ch, and again a wing of 5 d c in same place, 
 3 ch and a slip stitch on the centre of 3 d c. Repeat 
 this for each space of scallops all around. 
 
Nightingale 
 
 vhite, : 
 
 Begin at the neck with white, with a chain of 
 80 stitches; turn, make 3 d c in the 5th st of chain, 
 * ch I, skip 2 St of foundation chain, 3 d c in next, 
 repeat from * 4 times, ni.ikiiiL; '> ,^r'iii|i- 111 all: 
 
 Ladies' Mittens 
 
 black, bone Materials. — Three ounces of two-ply zephyr. 
 
 Chain 71 sts and join; make 34 stars on this 
 chain; work 8 rows of stars. At the beginning of 
 the 9th row widen by working two stars over one, 
 widen also the next star; widen every other row. 
 This makes the thumb, and there ought to be 12 
 stars, when you widen the 5th row, including 
 the 10 that are widened. Crochet another row 
 after the 5 rows widened. Now drop ofif the 
 12 stars for the thumb and chain 8 sts, and 
 join to the 13th star. The chain sts must be 
 picked up the next row. There ought to be 34 
 stars around the mitten, and if too many, narrow 
 at the thumb by taking two stars in one, crochet 
 14 rows and narrow. Narrow two stars in one, 
 crochet 2 stars between, narrowing all around the 
 glove, crochet two rows, crochet i, narrow i all 
 around, crochet I row, narrow two stars in one 
 until only 8 stars remain, draw wool through last 
 stitch. Break wool, leaving enough to close with 
 
 Nightingale 
 
 in the next space increase by making 2 groups of 
 3 d c, with I ch between ; work 5 groups, increase, 
 5 groups, increase, 6 groups, which brings the work 
 to the end of chain. 
 
 Work 24 more rows, increasing always in the 
 centre-back and upon each shoulder, and also mak- 
 ing an extra group in beginning and ending the 
 row. 
 
 26th roll' — Work 15 groups as usual, ch 27, skip 
 the next 34 groups, work 14 groups, increase in 
 centre-back, work 14 groups, ch 27, skip 34 groups, 
 and finish the row. 
 
 Work two rows in black, increasing as usual in 
 beginning and ending, and centre-back, and mak- 
 ing 9 groups on each under-arm chain ; then work 
 two rows in white, one row of black across bot- 
 tom, up the front, around neck, and down the sec- 
 ond front ; then a final shell row, as follows : One 
 s c in first space. 6 d c in next space, and repeat. 
 
 To finish the sleeves begin at one corner of the 
 under-arm chain, with white, work 10 groups 
 across the chain, and the 34 groups, increasing in 
 the centre space as usual. Work two rows in 
 black, one white, one black, and the final shell row 
 in black. Run ribbon in at the neck for ties. 
 
 Ladies' Mitten 
 
 sewing needle. Pick up stitches at thumb and nar- 
 row to 14 stars. Crochet 9 rows and narrow two 
 stars in one until there are only 6 stars, finish as 
 before. Crochet a shell scallop at the wrist. 
 

 Nightingale 
 
 Materials. — One poi 
 of white ribbon \ 
 
 ind 6 ounce? of three-ply wool, 
 ;i inch wide, bone crochet-hoolc. 
 
 Chain io8; that is enough for 35 groups, with 
 2 ch between each group and 3 ch to turn around. 
 
 1st roiv — A group consists of * 3 d c, 2 cli, i s c. 
 Miss 2 ch, and repeat from * till there are 35 groups 
 in the row. 
 
 2d row — Turn aniund with 3 ch, which, you count 
 as I d c in this group. You always put the group 
 between the s c and first d c of the group in 
 previous row. 
 
 Continue till there are 1S4 rows, which make 
 60 inches. It takes two rows to make one edge 
 group. 
 
 Work this pattern all around tlie nightin- 
 gale three times. 
 
 l.f/ ro'cv- — Plain. 
 
 2d roiv — Increase at the four corners by work- 
 ing one extra group each side of the centre group. 
 
 2,d row — Plain. 
 
 Then turn back and work the same pattern 
 around the opposite way three times. 
 
 4</t roiv — Increase at the four corners. 
 
 5//( row — The same way : no increase. 
 
 6th roiv — The same way: increasing at the 
 four corners. 
 
 To Make Up. — Double the work end to end. 
 and nine inches from each side of the middle front 
 edge join together to form the fold at the back; 
 ten inches farther down each front edge put some 
 ribbon to tie the fronts together round the neck. 
 
 Put two pieces of ribbon about five inches below 
 this, and two more at the bottom of front edges. 
 
 Cuffs. — Take two back corners ; turn the points 
 back five inches and tie the two points or corners 
 thus formed together with ribbon. 
 
 Knee Cap 
 
 Ma 
 
 ply 
 
 Ls. — Number 9 
 
 chet-hook and 3 full ounces of fo 
 
 Work 42 chain rather easily. 
 
 1st roiv — Miss I ch and work 41 s c. 
 
 2d roiv — One ch to turn, s c in back loop of each 
 St in previous row, 41 in all. Repeat the 2d row 
 till six rows in all are done. 
 
 jth row — One ch to turn, s c as usual in each 
 of 20 sts, 3 s c in the front part of the next st, that 
 is the front instead of the back, 20 s c to finish the 
 row as usual. 
 
 X'ow go on in this fashion, making a ch to 
 begin, and the 20 s c each in the back of the st 
 below. Then for the middle part, always working 
 on the front part of the si, and putting 3 sts in the 
 middle st every other row, and 20 s c on the other 
 side of centre until there are 21 rows of the middle 
 work : then work 6 rows without increase, but in 
 the same style. There should be 20 ridged, 21 
 plain, and 20 ridged in each of the six rows. Now 
 decrease a st in every row, by missing it altogether, 
 
 
 W--- ' 
 
 
 Crochet Knee Cap 
 
 or draw the wool through first one st and then the 
 other, and then work the three loops on the hook 
 off as if they were one st. Repeat until you are 
 down to 41 sts again, when you work six plain rows 
 
as at the beginning, or until the cap is large enough. 
 Sew or crochet the two edges together. 
 
 Note. — To make the cap smaller, either do fewer 
 rows in the increasing part or underneath, or use 
 a slightly smaller hook. To make it larger, do one 
 or two extra plain rows. Practically the same re- 
 sult of cap with less trouble will be attained by 
 working in ridged crochet all along and increasing 
 by putting 2 sts in the middle of every row instead 
 of 3 sts in every other row, until the 6l sts are 
 gained, while si.x ridged rows without increase 
 must be worked. The decreasing is done by taking 
 2 sts together every row in the centre, keeping the 
 ridged crochet as usual all the time. 
 
 Ripple Shawl 
 
 The shawl illustrated is a new pattern, com- 
 posed almost entirely of knot-stitch. While the 
 stitch should be made rather loosely, the knot should 
 be drawn tightly to give the work the much desired 
 fluffy effect. A shawl made in this stitch is sure 
 to keep its shape, for unlike the very open shell 
 work, it cannot sag. 
 
 Ripple Shawl 
 
 This shawl will require 9 skeins of white and 2 
 of colored Shetland floss. The shawl measures 25 
 inches from the neck to edge, with a sweep of 26 
 feet. If a deeper shawl is desired, make more 
 rounds before putting on the border. 
 
 Use a medium-sized bone hook, and work as fol- 
 lows: Chain 5 and join. 
 
 1st roiv — Work 12 d c in ring. 
 
 2d rozv — Work 12 double knot stitches in the 
 12 d c of last row. 
 
 3ii a)id 4th rows — Plain (catching k st into k 
 St in usual way). 
 
 5//j row — Chain 2, make double k st, fasten in 
 next st, * 2 plain, i d c between the next 2 k sts, 
 repeat from * all the way around. 
 
 You will notice that the 2 ch and the 3 d c sts 
 make 4 widenings in this row ; repeat the above 
 row, always making 2 ch at the beginning of a 
 row and 3 d c in 3 d c of last row, till there are 
 40 k sts, or 10 sts between widenings. In the next 
 row begin to widen 8 times in a row, make 2 
 ch, then 5 double k sts, then widen between the 5th 
 and 6th st ; repeat all way around. 
 
 Repeat the above row till tliere are 22 sts be- 
 tween widenings. In the next row begin to widen 
 16 times in a row. Widen in usual way. Work 
 II k sts, and widen between nth and 12th sts; re- 
 peat all way around. Repeat this last row till the 
 shawl is the desired depth. Fasten in the colored 
 wool, and begin the border thus: Make 8 ch and 
 fasten back in the 3d ch with a si st, 3 ch, and 
 fasten to the next k with si st ; repeat all the way 
 around. In widening in this row do so by making 
 2 of these sts in one k st. This to be done 16 times, 
 midway between widenings of previous rows. 
 After finishing row. tie and clip wool. Fasten 
 wool to a picot of last row. Make 9 ch (this to 
 widen), fasten back in 4th ch with si st, 4 ch, fasten 
 to next st with si st. Repeat all the way around; 
 tie and clip wool. Fasten white wool to a picot. 
 Now make the k sts the length of a ch st longer 
 than those you made in the body of shawl (this to 
 widen). Work the next three rows plain. In 
 the 5th row widen 16 times in the usual way, only 
 let the widenings come midway between those in 
 previous rows. Make I or 2 more rows plain, 
 and begin the scallop edge thus : * Make I k st, ch 
 5. fasten back in k with si st, make I k st, and 
 fasten down in the usual way. Now make 2 double 
 k sts, and fasten down in the usual way, and repeat 
 from * all the way around. This will alternate I 
 picot and 2 plain k sts all the way around. Tie and 
 clip wool, b'asten wool to a k st to left of a picot. * 
 make a double k st, then 12 t c in the picot, with I 
 ch between t c, and fasten down to k with si st ; 
 repeat from * all the way around. Tie and clip 
 wool. Fasten wool to k between shells. * Work 
 a k st like those in border, fasten to first t c of 
 shell with si st, make 2 short k sts. fasten to next 
 t c ; repeat all the way around shell. There should 
 be 9 double k sts in all. Work i long k st and 
 fasten to k between shells, and repeat from * all 
 the way around. Tie and clip wool. Fasten colored 
 wool to a k between shells, and work around shell 
 in short k sts. 
 
 The k sts in body of shawl are about three- 
 quarters of an inch long. If desired, they might be 
 made one inch long from the directions given. 
 
Auto Scarf 
 
 eins two-fold Saxony, and a medium- 
 Begin with a chain of 87 stitches. Turn and 
 work a d c in the sth st from the hook, d c in the 
 next ch, then go back and work a d c in the ch st 
 
 Auto Scarf 
 
 before the first 2 d c, skip i ch, 2 d c, then d c back 
 in the skipped stitch. Repeat to the end of the 
 row, making 29 groups of d c. Turn and ch 3, 
 and work a group over a group. Repeat this row 
 until the scarf is the desired length. Crochet a 
 row of shells across the sides — each of 3 d c into 
 each row of the scarf. 
 
 Cut the fringe into 20-inch lengths. Tie 3 strands 
 into each group of d c and also between the groups. 
 Knot 3 times, as seen in the illustration, beginning 
 with 2 groups tied. Trim ends of the fringe to 
 make it even. 
 
 This scarf measures 2 yards in length and 15 
 inches in width. 
 
 Ladies' Slippers 
 
 skeins light, 
 
 Materials. — Two skeins dark four-ply w 
 and short crochet-hook to correspond. 
 
 These slippers are small 4's in size and are 
 worked in a stitch that e.xactly resembles double 
 knitting, and both sides being alike and the work 
 solid and durable, it is admirably adapted for slip- 
 pers, boots, afghans, etc. 
 
 Begin with the darkest shade; work a ch of 14. 
 On this work a row of s c ; at the end ch i, turn. 
 
 2d row — One d c in the first st, taking up both 
 edges of the loop; * I ch, miss I, i d c in the ne.xt; 
 repeat from*. Always work a ch at the end of the 
 row. Increase a stitch in beginning each row. 
 
 3rf row — One d c at the edge, i ch ; work a d c in 
 the s c under the i ch st, in the first row, putting 
 the hook right through the two sides of the st, i ch, 
 a d c in the st under the next ch. 
 
 4th roiv — The lightest shade, work in exactly the 
 same manner, taking up the d c st of the second 
 row. 
 
 5//1, 6th and jth roivs — The darkest shade, so 
 making the darkest shade work into the lightest, 
 and vice versa, but always 3 rows of dark. 
 
 When you have 21 sts, counting from the first 
 row on your work, divide for the sides. Increase 
 in the first and third rows only on the outside, and 
 decrease in the same rows on the inside; work 10 
 d c on each side, and 21 double rows; work a row 
 less or more if necessary for any given size. 
 
 Knit Frill for the Edge. — Cast on 6 stitches. 
 
 1st roi<.> — The needle into the st; wind the wool 
 twice round the left needle, and over the first finger 
 of that hand; knit the st then as usual. Knit back 
 the row plain. 
 
 Knit 2 looped rows of the dark shade, i loop row 
 of the light shade alternately, until you have enough 
 to sew round the edge of the slipper. 
 
 Ladies' Slipper 
 
Auto Priscilla Hood 
 
 Materials. — About j full ounces by weight of solid color and 
 nearly 2 ounces of trimming color for front; 3 yards of 3J^- 
 inch ribbon (satin is prettiest) for strings. Black and cream, 
 brown and cream, brown and pink, or any preferred com- 
 bination, can be used. Rather a fine hook, about No. u 
 or 13, to make each shell nearly or quite J^ inch square. 
 
 Take the crown color and chain 9 on which work 
 3 stars. Now work around and around, widening 3 
 stars at end, working one opposite each of the 
 3 on other side the chain, then 5 across the end, 
 keeping the stars along the centre even with the 
 
 Auto Priscilla Hood 
 
 stars already in the centre as much as possible, 
 and so go on, around and around, increasing finally 
 where needful till the work is about 7 inches across 
 the narrowest measurement, that is, from side to 
 side. Now work 5 rows in s c, increasing where 
 needful to keep the work flat. Then two rows of 
 star St. Then work two more rows of s c, but do 
 not increase; one of d c ; one of s c; one of d c; 
 and now you begin to decrease. 
 
 1st row decrease — Work the row in s c, tak- 
 ing every 8th and 9th sts together. 
 
 2d row decrease — Double crochet, taking two 
 together over every decrease in row below. 
 
 3d row decrease — * Work 9 sts in s c then 
 miss 3 sts, and repeat from *. 
 
 4th row decrease — * Work 15 sts, miss 3 sts, 
 and repeat from * all around. Any time the num- 
 ber of sts does not come out even it does not mat- 
 ter. Break off the wool. 
 
 You now work several rows to make the front a 
 little deeper than the back. Mark the exact front, 
 and also the back, with a piece of colored wool or 
 cotton. Begin about a third of the way past the 
 middle of the back, and work a s c in each st. 
 Break oiif. 
 
 For second short row begin about half way be- 
 tween the front and back, or a trifle nearer the 
 front; measure your work and if it is more than 22 
 or perhaps 23 inches whole width, 11 or 11 1-2 
 inches in the half width, which it probably will be, 
 decrease at regular intervals, but be particular to 
 take the decreasings exactly over the decreases pre- 
 viously made at the front, so that the front may 
 look fuller than the back. If you do not get it 
 decreased sufficiently in one row, work another the 
 same way, but begin it within a few inches of the 
 front, and end at the same point at the other side. 
 The idea is to get the front of the crown fuller and 
 longer at the front than at the back. Break off the 
 wool. 
 
 Front of Hood. — Use the wool selected for the 
 front. Make an easy chain, which when closed in 
 a circle will be as large as the circle of the crown. 
 Count and put a measure in the exact half of this 
 circle; work on this chain in s c till you come to 
 the marked spot; put 2 sts in that spot, finish the 
 rows as usual and join. Work five more rows 
 in this way, keeping the mark in place and always 
 increasing a st as near middle of front as possible, 
 loin the beginning and end of each row at the 
 finish. Mark the end of last row. 
 
 1st shaping roiv — Slip st over about 8 sts then 
 make 2 loose ch, and make a d c in next and con- 
 tinue till you have a d c in each of 10 sts; then s c 
 through tile 2 top loops as usual of every st till you 
 come to the i8th st from the middle mark at the 
 back; this will be the 26th st from where you began 
 the row. Work 10 d c to match those at beginning. 
 Turn. 
 
 2d shaping rozi' at front — Make 2 ch, work the 
 first 3 sts together as i st ; then work 15 d c, al- 
 ways taking up both top loops, go on with s c till 
 there are 18 sts left on other side; then work 15 d c 
 and take the last 3 sts as one st. 
 
 3(f rozv — Take the first 3 sts together; work 20 
 d c, 3 s c and si st; break off the wool; work the 
 other side the same way. You may begin at the 
 end of row. 
 
 4th roiv — Work in the same manner, but only 
 work 10 d c instead of 20. 
 
 5th row — Fasten on as usual, taking 3 sts as one. 
 
work 20 d c ; work in s c across till there are 23 sts 
 left ; finish the row as you began it. 
 
 6tli row — Begin as usual, work 25 d c ; 3 s c, 
 and break off, drawing the wool through the 
 fasten it. Do the other side the same way. 
 
 7//; roiv — Begin as usual, taking 3 together, 
 25 d c, work in s c till you have 28 sts left. 
 25 d c, then take 3 together. 
 
 Note. — In working over the ends of the 
 
 I si St 
 st, to 
 
 work 
 W'ork 
 
 Ladies' Jacket 
 
 rows, it may be found well to work quite over 
 them into the row below. It does not matter so 
 tliat they are neat. 
 
 Front Turnover. — Work evenly in star st all 
 across the row just done, allowing J sts to every 
 star. 
 
 Return rozv — Work 2 s c over every star in 
 the return row. In working the s c in the return 
 row, it is as well to only take the front loop of the 
 star in I st and put the other into the hole in the 
 centre of star. It looks a little better on the right 
 side. Work this star row and s c return row till 
 you have altogether 9 rows of star stitch with a 
 row of s c between. Break off and fasten in the 
 end of wool at the end of the star stitch row with- 
 
 out working the row of s c ; run in the end. 
 
 Put the front and crown together, seeing that 
 the middle mark of front crown part is to the 
 middle mark of front part, and that they are also 
 even at the back ; also be careful to so arrange them 
 that the turnover will turn over and show on the 
 right side of cap. If there is any spare fulness put 
 it towards the front, near the top. Crochet them 
 together, on the wrong side; if, when finished, the 
 crown seems likely to be too large, run in a double 
 strand of wool and tie to size. 
 
 Then crochet a tiny flat scallop of 3 d c to a scal- 
 lop with a s c between scallops, and arranged so 
 that they are neither full nor tight. In the model 
 a s c was in the centre of one star, the 3 d c in 
 the centre of the next, a s c in the centre of the 
 next, and so on. Around the back they were ar- 
 ranged to suit. Remember the back of the hood 
 nuist have the final row put so that it is right side 
 out, and you must begin again to have the final 
 row of front, right side out. 
 
 Draw in all ends, and arrange ribbon. In the 
 model about 26 inches were marked off, a single 
 tie luade in the middle of it, and it was arranged 
 along the back, and the remainder cut off. This 
 remainder was cut into two strings which were 
 arranged with a single bow, fastened at the junc- 
 tion of crown and front, and brought down across 
 (he ends of the back ribbon, and fastened. 
 
 Note. — The front of the cap can be put back, or 
 forward, however, and the strings arranged ac- 
 conlingly. For cold trips it would be better if 
 made to fit snugly. 
 
 Ladies' Jacket 
 
 For wearing under a raincoat this tight-fitting 
 jacket is most desirable. The special points to 
 which I wish to call your attention are — the ab- 
 sence of plaits and belt, the collarless effect at 
 throat, the tight-fitting back, and absence of under- 
 arm seams. A medium-weight yarn and a firm, 
 tight stitch, and small bone hook, are the most 
 desirable in making a shaped jacket, as a loose, 
 flimsy stitch would make a practically shapeless 
 garment. For that reason crazy-stitch and Shet- 
 land floss were selected. The body color is light 
 gray with red trimmings. 
 
 Materials used: One box light gray Shetland 
 floss and one skein of red. The garment measures 
 as follows when completed, holding the work slack 
 as measured. If stretched out it would measure 
 several inches more in width, but not a material 
 difference in length. Waist — 27 inches. Hips — 
 32 inches. Bust — ^6 inches. Back — 17 inches 
 long; 13 inches wide between shoulders. Shoulder 
 seam — 5 inches. Front — 14 inches long from neck, 
 and 9 inches wide through the fulness. Sleeve — • 
 22 inches length of top arm, 16 inches under arm. 
 
17 inches at widest point, and 8 1-2 inches at 
 wrist. Having these dimensions given it will be 
 easy for any one to measure herself and make 
 changes in the work to correspond. Remembering 
 that the work will stretch several inches in width, 
 it will therefore fit a 37 or 38 bust, but will not 
 stretch in length. 
 
 Commencing at the waist line, chain 219 worked 
 tight, turn and work 3 d c in ch 4 from the hook ; 
 skip 3 ch sts and s c into ch 4, ch 2, 3 d c into ch 
 where s c was made. Skip 3 ch sts and s c into 
 ch 4 ; repeat until you have 54 groups. Chain 3, 
 turn and work 3 d c into s c of last row where ch 
 
 3 seems to start from, catch by s c into top of next 
 group and ch 2, make 3 d c into the opening made 
 between ch 2 and the 3 d c of group; catch by s c 
 into top of next group and repeat to end of row. 
 Work 4 rows without widening, turn and work 15 
 groups on 5th row; widen in i6th group by work- 
 ing a shell of 2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c, into opening where 
 you have been making the ordinary groups. This 
 is the method by which crazy-stitch is widened, 
 and is to be followed when directions say widen. 
 After widening, work 32 groups, widen, 15 groups. 
 This widening divides the jacket into fronts and 
 back; Widen under arm every 4th row ; that is, 
 work 3 rows without widening, then widen in 4th 
 row, being particular to keep places of widening 
 right over each other. Widen 5 times under each 
 arm (widening every 4th row). When you come 
 to the 13th row, work 5 groups from outside edge, 
 widen in 6th, 5 groups, widen in 6th, 7 groups, 
 widen under arm, work across back, widen under 
 arm, 7 groups, widen in next, 5 groups, widen, 5 
 groups, which brings you to front edge if your 
 work has been done correctly. The 14th row is 
 plain clear across. Widen at points in front on 
 15th row, working 6 groups, widen, 6 groups, widen. 
 This ends the widening in fronts. After the widen- 
 ing under arm in 21st row, work 9 rows across 
 plain. Turn and work 10 rows of 18 groups each 
 across one front; on nth row widen at armhole ; 
 I2th row plain. We are now counting the- rows 
 from 1st short row. In the 13th row the narrow- 
 ing begins. W'ork 9 groups from front edge, when 
 catching down 9th group, catch into top of 2 groups 
 underneath at once and work a s c, 4 groups, and 
 catch as before into top of next 2 groups by 
 ISC, making the I s c connect both groups, work 
 
 4 groups to armhole. Narrow again in 4th row, 
 which will be the 17th row, at both points. In 5th 
 row from other widening at armhole, widen again. 
 When you have worked 50 rows, counting from 
 base line, drop out 4 groups at front edge for neck. 
 Now, beginning with this short row to count. 
 
 2d rozv — Turn and work back to armhole, widen 
 at armhole. 
 
 2d row — Turn and work back to neck. 
 
 4th row — Chain 3, and instead of working group 
 in s c, catch by s c into top of group where next 
 group is to be made, thus dropping off the I group 
 at edge of neck. Work back to armhole. 
 
 ^th and 6th rows are plain. 
 
 yth row — Leave off I group at shoulder seam, 
 turn. 
 
 Sth row — Leave off i group, at beginning of row 
 at neck, working 8 groups back to shoulder seam. 
 Break wool. 
 
 gth roiv — Turn and tie wool in 2d group, work 6 
 groups to neck. 
 
 10th row — Turn and work 4 groups, break wool. 
 
 11th row — Two groups at neck point. When you 
 have finished one front work the other in the same 
 manner, leaving off groups at neck and armholes 
 to correspond to first side made. 
 
 The back is then worked as follows : Tie wool 
 in top of 4th group from front at armhole, working 
 across to other armhole, leaving off 3 groups 
 there also. Chain 3, turn and leave off ist group, 
 work to end of row, turn, and leaving off ist group 
 work to end of row, leaving off last group. The 
 same is done at ends of next row, when your back 
 should be 26 groups wide. Work 23 plain rows, 
 widen at each end of 24th ; 25th row is plain. 
 Leave off one group at shoulder seam every 3 
 rows until only 8 groups are left. This finishes the 
 body of the jacket. The skirt is made by working 
 13 rows of crazy-stitch in gray, widening in 3d row 
 at two points, front and back of hips, thus : Widen 
 in the loth group from the front edge, and in the 
 loth group from that, working across skirt to 20th 
 group from other front, widen in the 20th group. 
 Work 9 groups and widen in loth, work 9 groups, 
 which should bring you to front edge. 
 
 The sleeve is begun at the top with the gray wool. 
 Chain 52, on which make 13 groups; ch 3, turn and 
 widen at beginning and end of row. Widen at each 
 end of 4th, 7th, 9th, I2th, 14th. 17th, 19th, 22d, and 
 24th rows: work 25th row plain, which brings the 
 work to the under-arm extension. It is now 16 
 inches across and 6 1-2 inches deep. Chain 11, 
 turn and work 2 groups on the chain just made, 
 which brings you to the row of groups, work across 
 this and at end of row ch 11. turn and proceed as 
 before. Work 6 rows across plain, then decrease 
 one at end of next row. Counting the row just 
 made as one, work 6 rows without decreasing, 
 then turn and leave off I group at each end. 
 Counting this last row, work 6 rows again, then 
 narrow and work 6 rows more, narrow and work 
 6 rows more. Then narrow and work 4 rows, 
 always counting the row as one in which you leave 
 off the groups at ends. Work 3 groups of 4 rows 
 each. So continue to leave off i group at each end 
 until you have only 16 groups. Work 5 rows of 
 18 groups, which should complete 75 rows. Tie in 
 
the led wool and work 8 rows red, then 4 rows 
 gray, i row red. 
 
 The sleeves now being finished, sew up the seam 
 on the wrong side, fitting the jagged edges into 
 each other, which if done carefully will make a 
 perfectly flat seam. The shoulder seams should 
 
 Ladies' Cape 
 
 be joined in like manner. The sleeves are to be 
 sewed in by joining under-arm points and sewing 
 without any fulness until at point at top, where 
 all the fulness should be gathered into about 5 
 inches. 
 
 To give the jacket a double-breasted effect, tie 
 in the gray at lowest point of front on one side, 
 
 and at the neck on the other, to make the row 
 wrong side out ; work row of groups to other end 
 of front, turn and work a row of groups to waist 
 line, turn and work a row, leaving off last 2 groups, 
 turn and work to end of row, leaving off 2 groups, 
 continue until you have 7 rows, leaving off 2 
 groups at end of each row. The 7th row will have 
 about 16 groups. Around the whole jacket now 
 work a row of red. 
 
 If it is desired a loose straight front may be 
 made by changing the row in which the widening is 
 done in the front. Instead of widening in the 
 13th and 14th rows, widen in the 2d and 3d rows, 
 which throws the fulness lower down, leaving out 
 the widening in the 13th and 14th rows, and cro- 
 cheting the front plain until directions say narrow. 
 
 Ladies' Cape 
 
 The yoke is made first. It is formed of six sec- 
 tions joined. For one section begin with a chain of 
 15, turn and make 14 half-doubles (h d c) on the ch. 
 Work 2^ rows of b d c for one section, widening I st 
 in each row by working a stitch in the base of the 3 ch 
 at the beginning of each row. Take up the sts at 
 the back. Make six of the sections and join by 
 chaining 6, fasten by single crochet to the corner 
 of a section, ch 6, fasten in second section, and 
 continue the ch 6 back and forth until the sections 
 are joined. Fasten wool at the front corner of the 
 yoke at lower edge, ch 3, skip 2 sts, in the next st 
 work a shell of 2 d c, ch 2. 2 d c, and repeat the 
 shells in every 3d st across the front section. On 
 the shoulder sections work a shell in every alternate 
 st and in the back sections in every 3d st. For the 
 ne.xt row ch 3, turn, and work a shell in a shell 
 across the yoke. Repeat this row until the cape is 
 2J rows deep. If the neck seems large, work a 
 row of s c quite tight to draw it in. Work a row of 
 treble crochet with 2 ch between, all around the 
 cape through which to run the ribbon. 
 
 For the border, begin at the lower corner and 
 work a row of shells of 6 t c each and fasten by 
 s c between, across the bottom. Work another row 
 of shells, placing a shell in the middle of the ^hell 
 beneath, and d c in each s c between the shells. 
 The next row is of shells, each having 8 t c and s c 
 between, and is worked all around the cape. Finish 
 the edge with chains of 3 fastened into every stitch 
 of the last shell row. Run the ribbon through the 
 open spaces of the yoke, ending each strip with a 
 loop and end. Also run the ribbon through the 
 spaces around the cape, and through the neck 
 spaces, leaving the ends long enough to tie. 
 
Shawl 
 
 Materials. — Fourteen or fifteen skeins of Shetland floss for a 
 shawl 1^2 yards square. Medium-sized bone crochet-hook. 
 
 1st rocv — One short th st, * i long ch st made 
 by drawing out the .st on the hook until it is about 
 
 Detail of Shawl 
 
 1-2 inch long before drawing the wool through 
 it, I short ch st, s c back into the short ch st at be- 
 ginning. * Repeat from * to * twice more ; then 
 1 long ch st, I d c into same st with the 3 s c. Make 
 this d c rather loosely, so that it will equal in 
 length the long ch st. These four points are the 
 beginning of the four corners of the shawl. 
 
 2d row — One long ch st. d c of equal length 
 back into the top of the d c made at end of first 
 row. It is important that the hook be inserted 
 in exactly the same place each time at this corner 
 of the work, so that the corner where each row 
 is commenced will look as nearly like the others 
 as possible. Insert it straight through the st at 
 top of d c with two threads in front of the hook. * 
 Now make I d c forward into top of next point. 
 At these points be careful to have the hook placed 
 under the two upper threads of the short ch st, 
 that is, the two that come through the long ch st 
 leaving the one that was drawn through in work- 
 ing the short ch st, bclozv the hook. This keeps 
 the long ch sts at corners turned flat throughout 
 the work, making them look more nearly like the 
 other part of the work than they would do if the 
 hook were inserted straight through the short st 
 from front to back, instead of under it as described. 
 
 After working d c work i long ch st. s c in same 
 st with d c. Now widen at corner by working I 
 long ch st, I short ch st, i long ch st. s c in same 
 st with last s c ; I long ch st. d c back into st with 
 s c. * repeat from * to * twice more ; d c forward 
 into last corner, inserting hook in same place 
 where it was inserted in making the first d c of 
 this row, I long ch st. d c in same place. 
 
 3^ roiv — Same as 2d. making tivo points be- 
 tween the corners instead of one as in 2d row, 
 and widening at each corner same as in last row. 
 
 Be careful to make the long ch sts and d c of 
 
 equal length. Each row is now made in same 
 way, increasing one point on each side between the 
 corners. There will be one point between corners 
 of 2d row. 2 points in 3d row, 3 in 4th row and so 
 on. 
 
 Border. — When shawl is as large as desired, 
 make border as follows : 
 
 1st row — Three ch, s c in centre of point, 3 ch, 
 s c in next point, repeat. 
 
 2d row — Two d c made by working off first until 
 
 Shawl 
 
 there are two threads left on hook, then work the 
 other d c, working off 2 threads at a time until all 
 are worked off. This closes the 2 d c into I st at 
 top; I ch. 2 d c worked as before, knot stitch made 
 by drawing out the stitch on hook nearly 1-2 
 inch in length, then working a s c between the st 
 
and the wool just drawn through it, repeat, work- 
 ing a shell in each s c, and working 3 clusters of 
 d c in shells on corners. Work 5 rows of shells, 
 widening sufficiently at corners. 
 
 For shells on edge work 6 long, loose d c with 
 I ch between each, ch i, s c in next shell, ch I, re- 
 peat in next shell and around shawl, working scal- 
 lop in every alternate shell. 
 
 For edge — Chain 2 loosel)', s c under first i ch 
 of scallop, ch 2, s c in next i ch, repeat. After last 
 
 CORNEK OF Shawl i.n Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch 
 
 s c, which should be under the ch just before the 
 s c in shell between scallops, s c under ne.xt i ch 
 before beginning loops around next scallop. 
 
 Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch 
 
 piece of staple work, put hook through first 5 loops, 
 fasten with s c, single k s, fasten in next k s, in 
 row with s c, single k s, take next 5 loops in lace, 
 fasten with s c, repeat across strip. All the pieces of 
 lace are crocheted together the same way and at the 
 ends should there be a loop too many or not quite 
 enough take up more or not so many, as the case 
 may be; it will not be noticed when finished and 
 saves counting. 
 The border requires two strips of lace long enough 
 to go twice around the shawl 
 and is made as follows: 
 Crochet four rows of k s all 
 around shawl, taking up 5 loops 
 on the lace and keeping as 
 near as you can to the same 
 distance between stitches 
 across the ends of the first row 
 around, always widening at 
 the corners (so that the work 
 will be kept flat and not draw) 
 by adding more k s and taking 
 from 6 to 8 loops in the lace. 
 
 ~,tli raw in border. — Work 
 a single k s, fasten to lace by 
 taking up 5 loops, fasten with 
 s c, * single k s, fasten in bor- 
 der, k s with s c, single k s, 
 take 5 loops, fasten with so* 
 repeat around widening at cor- 
 ner. 
 
 6th ro'iv. — Fasten wool in 5 
 loops on border, work single 
 k s, fasten with s c in 5 loops of 
 lace, work single k s, take 5 
 loops in border, single k s, 5 
 loops in lace; repeat around 
 border. 
 
 ^tli row. — One row k s all 
 around. 
 
 Sth rozi'. — One s c in k s be- 
 tween loops, work a shell 
 in k s, between next two loops consisting of 
 seven long tr with 3 ch between each tr fastened 
 in tr st to form a picot. Repeat around border, 
 making shells to come between loops. Join lace- 
 work ends neatly with needle and wool. 
 
 Materials. — Fo' 
 
 ur skeins Shetlan 
 
 long. 1% ir 
 
 iches wide, which 
 
 a lard paJI; 
 
 crochet-hook. 
 
 Ladies' Shawl 
 
 Make 9 pieces of staple lace, each i yard long. 
 
 1st row. — Take i strip, fasten wool in first 5 loops, 
 * work a group of knot stitch (k s), fasten with s c in 
 next 5 loops, * repeat across row. 
 
 2d rozi'. — Turn, work a row of k s across strip. 
 
 jd rozv. — Turn, same as 2d row. 
 
 4tli rozv. — Same as 2d row. 
 
 5th rozv. — Turn, work a single k s, take a second 
 
 Materials. — Twenty skein 
 for the body of thavs-:. 
 
 of Saxony for tli. 
 
 zephyr 
 border, 
 crochet- 
 
 Begin the shawl at the lower corner with a chain 
 of 5 stitches, join with a slip stitch. In the ring 
 work a shell of 5 d c, ch 4, shell of 5 d c in the first 
 St of the 4 ch, fasten with s c in the middle of the 
 shell beneath, shell of 5 d c in last st of the shell be- 
 
neath. Chain 2, turn and work a shell of 5 d c into 
 the middle st of last shell, fasten with s c between the 
 2 shells of the last row, shell of 5 d c into middle of 
 next shell. This finishes the first 3 rows. Chain 4. 
 turn, shell into first st of the ch, fasten into middle 
 
 Ladies' Shawl 
 
 of first shell with s c, shell between the first 2 bnelis 
 of previous row, fasten into middle of shell with s c, 
 shell into last st of the last shell. For ^tli roic. — 
 Chain 2, turn, shell into middle of last shell of 4th 
 row, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next 
 shell, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next 
 shell, fasten into last st of the last shell of 4th row. 
 
 The remainder of the body of the shawl is a rep- 
 etition of the 4th and 5th rows. It will be seen 
 that there is a widening of one shell in every al- 
 ternate row. In one row the shells are placed be- 
 
 tween shells of the previous row, and the following 
 row has the shells on top of shells of previous row. 
 The widening is in the rows where shells come be- 
 tween shells. This gives the body of the shawl 
 the fluted effect. 
 
 For the border. — Begin at the right corner of the 
 top of the shawl with a ch of 6, skip 2 stitches on the 
 edge, tr c (treble crochet) in the next st, ch 2, skip 
 2 stitches, tr c in the next, and repeat all around the 
 shawl. This makes the open spaces through which 
 to run the ribbon. 
 
 Work the openwork border cross the 2 sides. 
 Begin at the left corner of the top. * Chain 6, fasten 
 with s c in ch 2 beneath, repeat from * across the 
 2 sides, widening at the lower corner so the work 
 will be plenty full enough. Repeat this row 7 times, 
 fastening chain in a chain. The 9th row is same as 
 the other rows except the chain has 7 stitches. This 
 finishes the border for the sides. 
 
 Begin at the right corner of the top at the outer 
 corner of the openwork border, shell of (3 d c, 2 tr 
 c, 3 d c), fasten with s c into next open space. 
 Repeat these shells across the top of the shawl. 
 
 Run the ribbon through the open spaces and place 
 a bow at each corner of the shawl, as seen in the 
 illustration. 
 
 This shawl measures 2 yards across the upper 
 edge and i yard deep. 
 
 f'^ 
 
 Slumber Slippers 
 
 These slippers are crocheted with a medium-sized 
 hook and fourfold Germantown wool. To give a 
 very soft kind of work. No. 7 or 8 hook may be used ; 
 but this is inclined to be too thin when washed. 
 About 9 or ID is better. About three ounces of wool 
 will be needed. 
 
 Make an easy chain about 9 inches long. Work 
 in every stitch in single crochet. 
 
 2d rozv. — Make i chain to turn ; work a single 
 crochet in back loop of every stitch. Repeat this 
 second row until you have a length of eighteen 
 inches, no more, for an ordinary grown-up foot. 
 Now, sew or crochet very softly and evenly the two 
 sides of the work together ; then lay the work per- 
 fectly flat and double, so that there are exactly the 
 same number of rows on one side of the end seam 
 as there are on the other. Now sew or crochet the 
 edges very softly together so that you have a nine- 
 inch deep bag. Crochet a row of single crochet 
 around the top, then a round of holes, then a tiny edge 
 or scallop. 
 
 Make a good substantial chain to run through 
 holes, and add tassels, or instead of chain add a rub- 
 ber which fits the ankle easily, and put a ribbon bow 
 in front, exactly opposite the seam at back. 
 
 The slipper is put on the foot with the end of front 
 seam up to the toes ; the other end comes under the 
 heel. 
 
Fascinator 
 
 vhite ce wool and a medii 
 
 The body of the fascinator is in cross treble (c t) 
 stitch. Begin at one edge with a chain of 150 sts. 
 
 
 "T'^^H 
 
 i^HIK 
 
 WB^^^^ 
 
 l^H 
 
 
 
 ^^Hfe 
 
 
 
 W 
 
 
 1^^" 
 
 ' . ^*: 
 
 
 ^* 
 
 p^T.' 
 
 ^^Kg^^H| 
 
 
 
 
 
 mn 
 
 Fascinator 
 
 Wool over twice as in tr c, insert hook in the 5th 
 ch from the hook and take a st, over, and skipping 2 
 ch take a st in the next, then work off all the sts on 
 the hook two at a time ; ch 2 and make a d c, then 2 sts 
 at the middle of the c t. This makes i c t. For the 
 next c t, over twice as before, take a st at the base of 
 the first c t in the same st, and finish same as the 
 first. Repeat the c t across the row, ending the row 
 with a t c in the last st of the ch ; ch 4, turn, and 
 make act over each c t of the first row. Repeat the 
 rows until the work is a perfect square. 
 
 For the border. — Chain 4, make a ring by wrap- 
 ping wool 3 times around the thumb of left hand, 
 insert the hook through the loops and make tight s c, 
 ch 3, s c in next c t, another ring, and repeat the 
 rings around the fascinator, placing them closer at 
 the corners, and join the last to the first. The next 
 2 rows are of knot stitch, making a knot in each ring, 
 and for the next row placing a knot in a knot. The 
 next row is rings. Make a * s c each side of the first 
 knot, then a ring, ch 3, and repeat from * around 
 the fascinator, making extra rings at the corners. 
 Make the next row of knot stitch same as the second 
 row, then another row of rings same as second ring 
 row, then another row of knot stitch. For the next 
 row, ch 7, fasten by a s c each side of the first knot. 
 
 ch 7, and repeat around the fascinator. For the next 
 row ch 7, and fasten by s c in the middle st of the 
 7 ch in last row, and repeat. For the last row, * ch 
 7, s c in the middle of 7 ch, ch 5 and fasten in same 
 st as the 7 ch, and repeat from *. The border has 10 
 rows. When finished the fascinator measures one 
 yard square. 
 
 Ladies' Fascinator in Staple Work 
 
 Made on a three-inch staple of blue Shetland 
 floss, two skeins being required. Draw wool 
 through enough loops to lay in a smooth circle, 
 then half as many more, it taking 105 loops in this 
 design. Tie tightly and fasten ends. The 2d strip 
 is joined to centre by drawing 2 loops of centre 
 through 4 of strip, then through 2 of centre. Double 
 a strip of five yards in the centre, draw wool 
 through 40 loops and tie tightly. Join strip to- 
 gether by working I ch and catching by s c into 3 
 loops, first on one side, then the other. After 
 working one yard together in this way, fasten wool 
 and separate strips and join each to centre in oppo- 
 site direction, one by 3 loops of centre to 4 of strip 
 to make full for the front, the other by 3 to 3 for 
 the back, joining strips together where they meet 
 as before and drawing wool through 40 loops at 
 end when string is even in length with first. This 
 last row joining to crown should be looped through 
 
 Ladies' Fascinator in Staple Work 
 
 as in previous two rows. Around the entire edge 
 crochet two rows of knot stitch as a finish. Use 
 any trimming you may like. This design is finished 
 with rosettes in baby ribbon and wool 
 
 20 
 
Circular Shawl 
 
 Materials. — On 
 
 ;-white Shetland floss. A medium-sized bone crochet- 
 hook. 
 
 Chain 4 and join in a circle. 
 
 1st roiv — Chain 3, I d c in circle. Now work a 
 knot-stitch by drawing out the st that is on the 
 hook about 1-3 inch in length. Wool over and 
 draw through. Then work a s c rather closely 
 
 Circular Shawl 
 
 in front of the long stitch and under the thread 
 drawn through it. This completes a k St. Work a 
 cluster of 2 d c in circle in this way: Wool over 
 and insert hook in circle, wool over and draw 
 through, making 3 sts on the hook. Wool over 
 and draw through 2 sis. Now, leaving 2 sts on 
 hook, wool over and again insert hook in circle, 
 wool over and draw through, making 4 sts on 
 hook, wool over and draw through 2 sts, wool over 
 and draw through the 3 remaining sts. This com- 
 pletes a cluster of 2 d c which, alternately with a 
 k St is used throughout the work ; * I k st, cluster 
 cf 2 d c made as before. * Repeat until there are 
 8 k sts. Join 8th k st to 3d of 3 ch at beginning of 
 row. 
 
 2d roiv — Chain 3, d c in top of next d c, i k st, 
 cluster of 2 d c (worked as before) in same st with 
 d c just made, l k st, miss k st in last row and work 
 cluster of 2 d c in top of next cluster. When in- 
 serting the hook in the top of cluster put it not only 
 mider the 2 threads of st directly on top, but also 
 under the back thread of the st lying directly below. 
 
 and which is twisted, or flattened. This makes 3 
 threads above the hook and the hook is passed 
 through the flat st. Be careful to do this through- 
 out the Vvfork, as it gives the rows of d c radiating 
 from centre to border of shawl a twisted, or cable 
 appearance. Knot st, cluster of 2 d c in same place, 
 * k st, 2 clusters of 2 d c separated by a k st 
 in top of next cluster (made as described above).* 
 Repeat from * to * around work. This row 
 has been widened by working the 2 clusters in 
 each cluster of last row, thus doubling the number 
 of clusters and k sts; join last k st to 3 ch as be- 
 fore. 
 
 T,d roiv — Chain 3, d c in next d c, k st, * cluster 
 of 2 d c in next k st, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next 
 cluster, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next cluster, k st, 
 repeat from * around work, ending with a k st 
 joined to 3 ch at beginning. 
 
 4f/t roiv — Beginning as in every row with 3 ch 
 and d c, work k sts and clusters of 2 d c alternately, 
 widening 8 times by putting 2 clusters, separated 
 by a k st, in each of the 8 clusters that were worked 
 in k sis in last row. Continue the work in this 
 way, widening in 8 places in each row. 
 
 In 2d. 4II1. 6th, and all even roivs the widenings 
 are made by putting 2 clusters of d c in one cluster 
 of the last row, while in the 3^, 5^/1, Jth, and all 
 odd roivs the e.xtra cluster is put in the k st that 
 separates those two clusters in last row. Keep 
 tiie widenings in a straight line. Where each row 
 is commenced with 3 ch and a d c, make this part 
 to resemble the clusters of d c as closely as possi- 
 ble, so the rows will look alike. 
 
 When the body of shawl is of the desired size, 
 work the border as follows : One d c in top of cluster 
 
 Detail of Circular Shawl 
 
of 2 d c in last row, k st, shell of 2 d c, i ch. 2 
 d c, in next cluster of 2 d c in last row, k st, i 
 d c in next cluster, k st, shell in next, and so on, 
 alternating shells and i d c with the k sts between. 
 
 The first three rows are worked alike. Then 
 work four more in the same way except that there 
 are 2 ch in centre of each shell instead of I ch. 
 This widens the border slifjhtly. 
 
 In the 8th row work a scallop of 6 loose d c sep- 
 arated by I ch, in a shell of last row. * i ch. s c in 
 top of I d c of last row, i ch. scallop in ne.xt shell, 
 repeat from *. 
 
 For the edge, beginning with s c under the i ch 
 just before the s c between 2 scallops, s c under 
 next I ch, ch 2 loosely, s c under first space be- 
 tween d c of scallop, repeat around scallop ending 
 with a s c under i ch just before the s c between 
 scallops in last row. Now work the next s c under 
 the I ch before next scallop and repeat the loops of 
 2 ch around each scallop but work the 2 s c be- 
 tween scallops, zvithoiit any ch between. 
 
 Silk Slippers with Wool Lining 
 
 The lining of this slipper is made of four-fold 
 zephyr in the ordinary s c ribbed slipper stitch and 
 requires about 4 laps. Commence with a row of 
 20 s c, ch 2, turn and taking up back st work 9 s c. 
 
 Silk Slipper with Wool Lining 
 
 widen in loth by putting 3 s c into it. 10 s c. ch 2, 
 turn and work back and forth, widen in centre 
 every other row, and taking up back st, which makes 
 the ribs, until you have 12 ribs; turn and work 20 
 s c back and forth until the strip will meet around 
 the sole. Join together at side and toe. and sew to 
 sole t)y overcasting it on the right side. 
 
 The outside is of wheels and made of machine 
 twist. Size F, and takes a one-ounce spool. Wind 
 the silk around the end of an ordinary lead pencil 
 ID times. Slip it off carefully and into this ring 
 work 2 rows of 24 s c each. Around this work 12 
 loops of 5 ch st each, skipping i s c and catching 
 into next by s c. 
 
 To join ivheels. — Work one entire wheel and the 
 
 next all but the ch st loops, ch 2, catch into loop of 
 1st wheel by s c, ch 3, back into unfinished wheel 
 by s c, skipping l s c, ch 2, catch into ne.xt loop of 
 1st wheel, ch 2. back into unfinished wheel by s c, 
 skipping s c. Finish wheel by working 10 loops. 
 In this manner work a strip of wheels to go around 
 slipper, next to sole, and join together. Work a 
 wheel and join to strip by 4 loops to the 4 loops of 
 any one wheel of strip, and by 2 loops to first 2 
 loops of each of the wheels on either side of the 
 one just joined to, which forms the centre toe. 
 This makes the slipper stand up from the sole, and 
 gives it a better shape. This leaves 4 free loops on 
 last wheel made, also 2 free loops on wheel at either 
 side. The wheels now are joined to this strip 
 across the toe in rows of 2. then 3. then 4, then 5, 
 in this manner. Work one wheel all but the loops 
 of ch sts, join by 2 loops to 2 loops of 2d wheel 
 from centre wheel of strip, to 2 free loops of wheel 
 ne.xt to centre, and to 2 loops of the 4 loops of 
 centre wheel, finish wheel by working 6 free loops. 
 Join another wheel in like manner, by 2 loops to 
 this last wheel made, 2 loops to 2 free loops of cen- 
 tre wheel, 2 loops to ist wheel from centre, and 2 
 to first 2 loops of 2d wheel from centre, finish by 
 working 6 free loops. Ne.xt join the 3 wheels in 
 same manner, then 4 and then 5. This completes 
 the toe. The strip around the back is 3 wheels 
 deep, counting the row already made. In making 
 the other rows join wheels as you work them by 2 
 loops to each other and 4 to the bottom strip, so 
 that the wheels will rest over the joining of wheels 
 below, which is done by catching into 2 last loops 
 of the one wlieel and the two first of the ne.xt. 
 
 Finish the top with an hour-glass design to run 
 the riblion through .is follows: Tie wool in 2d loop 
 of wheel, ch 6, d c in next loop, ch 3, wool over 
 the hook 3 times, catch into last loop of wheel and 
 draw wool through, wool over, draw through 2 sts, 
 wool over, draw through 2 more, wool over twice, 
 catch into ist loop of ne.xt wheel, wool over, draw 
 through 2 sts at a time till all are off, ch 3, wool 
 over, catch in st at centre where all parts seem to 
 join, work d c, ch 3. d c in 2d loop and repeat. 
 This same edge is worked around the bottom to 
 sew on bv. onlv wool is thrown over the hook but 
 twice at beginning of hour-glass, and is caught in 
 loops by s c instead of d c. 
 
 The frill is just a full ruffle of ch sts. 5 long- 
 drawn-out ch being in each loop, and 3 loops put 
 into each opening. The 2d row is the same, chain 
 5 and catch into the top of loops of preceding 
 row by s c ; a silk edge is then worked around in 
 same manner with same number of sts. The frill 
 and row for ribbon is made of two-fold zephyr and 
 one lap is required. Run in No. 2 satin ribbon of the 
 same shade as the wool lining. Fasten with a bow. 
 
Scarf 
 
 Make a chain of length desired for width of 
 scarf. 
 
 1st row. — Two d c in 3d st from hook. Shell of 
 3 d c in every 3d st of chain, i d c at end to keep the 
 edge straight, ch 3, turn. 
 
 2d row is the familiar star stitch. Work 1st 
 star as follows: insert the hook in ist one of 3 
 ch (the one next the work), draw wool through 
 rather loosely and keeping it on the hook, insert 
 hook in back loop of stitch at top of d c on edge, 
 draw wool through loosely as before and repeat 
 in each d c of shell, taking up back loop each time. 
 There will be 6 loops on the hook. Wool over and 
 draw through all, then make a tight ch st which 
 
 closes star. To make next star, take up first loop 
 under one thread just below the "eye" of last star, 
 second one in loop just below this one (where last 
 loop of the other star was made), and the other three 
 across the top of shell as before. Finish this star 
 by closing with a tight ch st as before. The loops 
 should be drawn out to equal lengths and loosely 
 made. .After closing star with ch st, draw the st out 
 rather loosely on hook before taking up loops for 
 next star or the work will draw. Work a d c at 
 end of row as before, ch 3, turn. 
 
 3(/ roiv. — Shell of 3 d c in each star, putting it in 
 eye of star, d c at end. 
 
 4th row.— Star stitch. 
 
 ^th row. — Shells, and so on, alternating these two 
 rows until of required length, keeping edges straight 
 with d c and 3 ch at ends. 
 
 ■ 
 
 m 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 
 ■i 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 It^.v 
 
 •W 
 
 *. - 
 
 I'- 
 
 t 
 
 
 t 
 
 '/' 
 
 
 l^,. 
 
 Detail of Scarf 
 
 To make scalloped edges. — Beginning with a s c 
 at end, ch 2, 2 d c back into same st with s c, s c 
 on edge of scarf just far enough from the first s c 
 to make the small pointed scallop lie flat, ch 2, 2 d c 
 back into same st with last s c, fasten down on edge 
 with s c as before, repeat to end. 
 
 To finish ends of scarf. — Chain 2, s c in first space 
 between shells, ch 2, s c in next space, repeat. This 
 makes a foundation for fringe. 
 
 For heading of fringe. — Make 2 d c in each space 
 across ends, working them as follows : Work off the 
 first d c until there are 2 stitches left on hook, then 
 instead of finishing in the usual manner, wool over 
 and work another d c in same place, working off 2 
 threads at a time until all are worked off. This 
 closes the 2 d c into i st at top, 2 ch, 2 d c in 
 next space, repeat. 
 
 For fringe. — Wrap Shetland floss around a card 
 of suitable size six times, cut and with the ends 
 held evenly together, draw loop through space on 
 end of scarf, then draw ends through loop and pull 
 down close. 
 
Golf Vest 
 
 Materials.— Two hanks of Scotch wool, i roll of braid for 
 binding. H of a yard of silk for facing the fronts, lo 
 small b'ass buttons, j balls of crochet silk for working, 
 and M of a yard of broad crinkle-edge elastic, i long crochet- 
 hook about the size of a No. 13 bone knitting-needle, i 
 spool of twist. 
 
 Make a ch of 35 sts, turn, and putting the hook 
 into the 2d st, put wool over and draw it through 
 the St. Keeping the st 011 the hook, continue to 
 
 Golf Vest 
 
 back edges i st every other rib seven times, or 14 
 ribs. Make a ch of 12 sts on the back edge and 
 take up 10 sts as at the beginning of the work. 
 This gives the under-arm extension. Widen every 
 rib on the front edge for 18 ribs, crocheting straight 
 on the back. Work one rib without widening. Then, 
 on the edge of the right side of the vest, after 
 crocheting the first 2 sts, make a ch of 2 sts be- 
 tween the 2d and 3d sts to make a httle opening 
 for the buttonhole. Narrow on the front edge I st 
 every 3d rib, and make ch for the buttonhole after 
 every 6th rib. Do this for 22 ribs. Now bind off 
 21 sts from the under-arm seam, and beginning to 
 crochet from the 22d st narrow i on the front every 
 3d rib, crochet back to within I st of the back edge 
 every rib. Do this for 6 ribs, remembering to make 
 the buttonhole where it should come in reference 
 to the others. Bind off. This completes the front. 
 Take up stitches on the opposite shoulder and 
 crochet the other front to correspond. Sew up the 
 vest at the under-arm seams. To work the stars 
 use knitting silk. On colored or white vest two 
 cross-stitches of black and two of yellow make a 
 pretty combination. Under the buttonholes place 
 a narrow stay of muslin. Underface the fronts 
 with bias silk or satin. Work the buttonholes with 
 twist. It is well before binding the fronts and 
 armholes to overcast the edges with the wool, to pre- 
 vent stretching in binding. It is also well to hold the 
 edges rather full in binding and to note the meas- 
 urements given below. Underface the lower edge 
 of the back with a flat elastic band. Finish with 
 two rows of small buttons. 
 
 Neck measure, 31 inches; armhole, 17 inches; 
 length of front, 7 inches. 
 
 the end of the ch until there are 34 sts on the hook. 
 Now put the wool over and draw back through 
 one St. Put wool over and draw back through the 
 st just formed and the one next on the hook. Con- 
 tinue to the end of the row. This makes the regu- 
 lar afghan-stitch with which most persons are 
 familiar. It will be seen that to make one complete 
 rib requires crocheting twice across, so, to simplify 
 the directions, we will speak of narrowing and wid- 
 ening by ribs rather than rows. 
 
 Having started with 34 sts on the hook and 
 crocheting twice across to form one rib, now widen 
 every second rib at each end for four times. This 
 gives 8 ribs. Work 22 ribs without widening. Now 
 widen I st at both ends of rib every 3d rib for four 
 times. Crochet 27 ribs straight. 
 
 This brings the work to the shoulder. 
 
 Take one-third of the stitches for one shoulder, 
 bind off one-third for the neck, and crochet on the 
 next third for the other shoulder. Crochet 8 ribs 
 straight, then widen on the front edge every 3d 
 rib I st for five times. Now widen both front and 
 
 Lady's Kimono 
 
 Materials. — Ten skeins of white i 
 yards of No. 4 ribbon, and a a 
 
 Begin at the neck with a chain of 107 stitches. 
 Beginning in the 2d st from the hook, make a single 
 crochet in each st of the ch. For the next row ch 
 I. turn, and make a s c in each s c of the 1st row, 
 taking the st through both sts beneath. For the 3d 
 row. ch 2, turn, and make a puff in each s c of 2d 
 row. To make the puff', thread over as for d c, take 
 a st through the s c, thread over, take another st in 
 the same place, thread over and take another st 
 in the same place, then draw thread through all 
 the sts on the hook and fasten by a s c. For the 
 next row, ch i. turn, make a s c between each 2 
 puffs, and to widen make 2 s c in every loth space. 
 The next row is the same as the 2d. The body of 
 the kimono is a repetition of the row of puffs and 
 the 2 rows of s c alternating, and widening in the 
 
first of the two rows of s c. same as in the 4th row. 
 Work until there are 18 rows of puiTs. For the ist 
 row of the border, ch 4, make a puff between the 2d 
 and 3d puffs, ch i, puff in the space between the 
 4th and 5th puffs, and finish the row, skipping 2 puffs 
 after each i ch. Break the thread. Begin with the 
 black at the same corner as the previous row, ch 4, 
 puff in each space beneath, break the thread. Make 
 another row of white, one of black, and another 
 of white same as the last row. The last 3 rows ex- 
 tend across the bottom of the kimono. 
 
 The outer border is made separate and sewed 
 on, all around the kimono. It is made thus : Chain 
 12 sts. Make 2 d c in the 5th from the hook, ch i, 
 2 d c in the same place, ch 3, skip 3 sts, fasten in 
 the next by s c, skip 2 ch, 2 d c in the next, ch i, 2 
 d c in the same place, ch 5, turn, 2 d c between the 
 two groups of d c, ch 3, fasten in top of next d c by 
 s c; then shell of 2 d c, i ch, 2 d c in the ch I. ch I, 
 5 puffs in the ch 5 with i ch 
 between, ch i, fasten in the 
 top of the last d c of the pre- 
 vious row, ch I, turn. * s c in 
 the first I ch, I d c and i s c 
 in the same place. Repeat 
 from * in each I ch between 
 the puffs. This finishes one 
 scallop. Repeat from the first 
 row until the border is long 
 enough to extend around the 
 kimono, holding it full at the 
 four corners. Edge the bor- 
 der with the black by making 
 chains of 4 sts and fastening 
 by s c in the middle and be- 
 tween the shells. Make a row 
 of holes at the neck through 
 which to run the ribbon by 
 making d c with 2 ch between 
 in every 3d St. Sew the bor- 
 der on neatly with the white 
 yarn, making full enough at 
 the corners. Fasten under the 
 
 arms to form the sleeves, and make bows of the rib- 
 bon at the fastenings and larger bow on the top of 
 the sleeve. Run the ribbon through the neck for 
 the ties. This kimono measures one-half yard from 
 the neck to the lower edge. 
 
 Ear of Corn Teapot Holder 
 
 Xot illustrated 
 
 Materials.— One skein of Saxony yarn, % yard of inch ribbon, pile 
 green, a small piece of while cashmere, and a small bone hook. 
 
 Chain 50. Jst round — * Make 2 single cro- 
 chet in 3d st of ch; remove hook, insert to 
 
 right of stitches, catch yarn and draw up tight, 
 make i ch, miss i st and repeat from * twice ; 
 miss I st, make 3 double crochet in next st, 
 and draw up as directed above (this makes the 
 kernels stand up). Repeat from last * to end of ch, 
 ch 2 and break yarn. 
 
 2d round — Make first kernel to the right of the 
 first one you made, make the ne.xt kernel between 
 2d and 3d kernels of first round, make all kernels 
 between kernels of last round till you finish the 
 round. The first three kernels of every round con- 
 sist of 3 s c, the rest have 3 d c. 
 
 jd round — Make first kernel between ist and 2d 
 kernel of last round, work as before to end of 
 round and then make the last kernel to the left 
 of last kernel of last round: you will observe 
 that the kernels mismatch in the rows. Repeat 2d 
 and 3d rows, till you have the desired size. Ten 
 rows makes a good sized holder. 
 
 Lady's Bre.\kfast Kimono 
 
 After the crochet work is done, cut two pieces of 
 cashmere (white) the size of the crochet work, al- 
 lowing an inch more in length, sew up the sides 
 and one end, lay a piece of white wadding on one 
 side (make it an inch short), and baste down, 
 turn the bag and gather up at lower edge, fit the 
 lower edge of corn to this and draw up together. 
 Now sew up from the lower edge about an inch, 
 overcast the lining to outside on both edges, turn 
 lining in at the top and gather tight ; now sew the 
 upper edge of corn to the lining to imitate a corn- 
 cob as much as possible, cut the ribbon at the ends 
 in points, make loops and sew to the upper end of 
 ear. 
 
Brownie Hood 
 
 MiTERiALS. — Four skeins white four-fold zephyr, and 1 of pink. 
 Ribbon for ties, and 10 yards baby ribbon for rosettes and to run 
 in rows of double crochet. 
 
 A hood made by these directions will fit a child 
 from 6 to lo years old according to size of head. 
 
 Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn, 
 and taking up back st of star work row of d c. 
 Conlinue until you have 6 rows of alternate stars 
 and d c. 
 
 Brownie Huod 
 
 yth roiv — Twenty-seven stars, widen i. I star. 
 
 S//t row.' — Double crochet without widening. 
 
 ()th rozv — Stars without widening. 
 
 10th rozi' — Double crochet without widening. 
 
 nth row — Twenty-eight stars, widen i. i star. 
 
 12th row — Double crochet without widening. 
 
 i^th roiv — Widen at beginning i star, 29 stars, 
 widen I, I star. 
 
 14//1 rozv — Double crochet without widening. 
 
 15/fe roTf— Stars, widening at the beginning and 
 before making last star. 
 
 l6//i row — Double crochet without widening. 
 
 17;/! row — Stars; work to end of row, leaving 
 off last 3 stars. Break wool. 
 
 i8//t row — Leave off 3 stars, tie in wool, and 
 make d c to end of row. 
 
 19//; row — Widen at beginning. Leave off 3 stars 
 (or rather their equivalent — 6 d c). 
 
 20th rozv — Leave off 4 stars, and d c to end of 
 row. 
 
 2ist rozi' — Sixteen stars. 
 
 22d rozv — Skip 8 stars and d c over remaining 8. 
 
 231^ rozv — Widen i star and make 3 stars. 
 
 This is for one side and the edge at starting point 
 
 is the top edge ; the other side is worked the same 
 
 only reversing terms, the edge where rows are 
 
 ended being the top edge, thus : 
 
 Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn 
 and work row of d c. Work 6 rows as above. 
 yth row — One star, widen I, 27 stars. 
 8/A row — Double crochet without widening. 
 ()th rozv — Stars without widening. 
 10.'/; rozv — Double crochet without widening. 
 ii//i vozv — One star, widen i, 28 stars. 
 12th rozv — Double crochet without widening. 
 13//1 rozv — One star, widen i, 29 stars; widen at 
 end of row. 
 
 14//1 rozv — Double crochet without widening. 
 15//1 rozv — One star, widen i, work to end of row, 
 widen I. 
 
 16//; rozv — l)nul)Ic crochet without widening. 
 17//1 rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row, 
 ch 3, turn. 
 
 18//1 row — Work d c to end of row, leaving off 
 3 stars. Break wool. 
 
 19//1 rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row, 
 widening i. 
 
 20//; rozi — Double crochet to end of row, leav- 
 ing off 4 stars. 
 
 2ist rozv — Sixteen stars, leaving off 6. 
 22d rozv — Double crochet over 8 stars, leaving 8 
 at end. 
 
 2T,d rozv — Three stars, leaving off 5 and widening 
 at end. 
 
 Whip top edges of hood together and stitch up 
 back. 
 
 The rever is made as follows: Chain 91, on 
 which work 44 stars, ch 3, turn. 
 
 2d row — Double crochet. 3^ rote— Stars. 4</t 
 ,-ow— Double crochet. 5//; ro-;'— Stars. Around 
 one side and both ends of this strip, and around the 
 outside edge of entire hood, crochet a frill made 
 in three rows thus : 
 26 
 
1st row — Pink shells made by working 2 d c, ch 
 2, 2 d c in the same stitch, skipping 2 stars between 
 shells and working i ch between. 
 
 2d rozv — Of the cream wool. Five d c in shell 
 with I ch between each, and catch down between 
 by s c. 
 
 3d row — With the pink wool. Chain 3, catch 
 by s c between each d c in top of shell, and by s c 
 without chain between each shell. 
 
 Run baby ribbon through rows of d c in both 
 hood and rcver, and finish with rosettes of the 
 same ribbon. 
 
 Baby's Carriage Afghan 
 
 Materials. — Fifteen skeins of cream-white Germantown, i !4 
 yards of white eiderdown, 5 yards narrow ribbon, and a 
 medium-sized bone hook. 
 
 The body of the afghan is formed of S stripes 
 going lengthwise, but all joined in the making. 
 Three of the stripes are made of star stitch and 
 d c, and 2 rows are of popcorn stitch. 
 
 Work a ch about l 1-4 yards long. On the ch 
 work 17s d c for the first row. Skip a st of ch 
 
 Baby's Carriage Afghan 
 
 about every 6th d c to keep the edge from drawing. 
 Turn and work a row of stars. Place a star over 
 every 2 d c. Turn and work a row of d c into the 
 stars, working 2 d c over each star, i d c in the 
 eye of star and i d c in stitch between the eyes. 
 Alternate these 2 rows until there are 6 rows of 
 stars and 7 rows of d c. This forms the first stripe. 
 To make the popcorn stripe, work a s c over each of 
 the first 2 d c, * ch 4, s c in each of next 3 d c, and 
 
 repeat from * to end of the row. Take the s c 
 through both the back and front st beneath. Turn 
 and work the next row of s c. dropping out the ch 
 4 which forms the raised appearance. Alternate 
 these 2 rows until there are 1 1 rows with the raised 
 parts and end with a row of d c. This finishes the 
 popcorn stripe. Work another stripe like the first 
 one, then another popcorn stripe, then another like 
 the first, as seen in the illustration. 
 
 Work a row of d c with ch 2 between all around 
 the afghan through which to run the ribbon. The 
 border consists of 4 rows. 
 
 1st row — Shell of 2 d c, ch 2, 2 d c in every al- 
 ternate ch 2 of previous row. 
 
 2d rozv — Shell of 3 d c. ch 2. 3 d c in every shell 
 of previous row. 
 
 3rf rozv — Same as 2d row. For the last row, ch 
 3, s c in ch 2 of the shell, ch 5 and s c in same place, 
 ch 6 and s c in same place, ch 5 and s c in same 
 place — this forms 3 picots in the ch 2; ch 3, s c 
 between the shells, ch 3 and s c in the ch 2 of next 
 shell. Repeat to end of the row. 
 
 Cut the eiderdown to fit the afghan, letting the 
 edges come to the row for the ribbon. With the 
 wool work a row of d c with 2 ch between all 
 around the lining, catching the d c into the edge of 
 the eiderdown. Place the afghan and lining with 
 the wrong sides together. Lace the ribbon through 
 the lining and outside, thus fastening them together 
 In this wav they can easily be taken apart to be 
 cleansed. This afghan is all white, but if a color 
 is desired it looks very pretty to work the plain 
 rows in the popcorn stripe either of pink or blue and 
 then work the last row of the border of the same 
 color. 
 
 Baby's Bib 
 
 MATERtAis. — Dark cream silk, medium steel croclict-hook. 
 
 Work 60 loose ch. 
 
 ist rozv — One d c in third ch. i d c in following 
 ch. 
 
2d row — Single crochet across, taking up back 
 of St to make ridge. Skip I st in centre of every 
 other row in the entire bib. Work l st less at the 
 beginning of each of the first i6 rows, or one for 
 each of 8 ridges. Then increase I at the beginning 
 of next 8 rows or 4 ridges, tlien i at beginning and 
 end of each remaining rows, or 2 for each ridge. 
 There should be 52 sts in last row. Press with hot 
 iron. Chain 74 and fasten to lower end of bib 
 for armhole. 
 
 1st roiv — Chain 5 * i d c in second ch, i ch * i d 
 c in second ch, repeat across chain and end of bib; 
 join to first 5 ch. 
 
 2d rozv — Chain 4, shell of 3 roll st — silk over 
 12 times in first d c of last row, i d c in next d c. 
 shell in next d c, repeat all around, clip silk; 
 make the other arm piece the same way. 
 
 Finish the top of bib same as arm, working d c 
 on wrong side of work and roll st always on right 
 side; finish the bottom the same also, then work 
 the extra rows like this : 3 ch on wrong side, i 
 s c between first 2 roll sts of shell, 3 ch, i s c be- 
 tween next 2 roll sts, 4 ch, i s c between first 2 
 roll sts of next shell ; repeat. 
 
 Last rozv — Shell of 4 roll sts in loop on top of 
 shell, shell of 4 roll sts on ne.xt shell ; repeat across 
 Finish with 3 ch, i d c, 3 ch, i d c. all around bib 
 and armhole. 
 
 Tie the sleeve pieces together in back with cream 
 taffeta or satin ribbon about 1-2 inch wide. 
 
 Infant's Band 
 
 of two-fold white Saxony and 
 
 fine 
 
 Begin at the end with a chain of 42 stitches worked 
 loosely. 
 
 Turn and work a s c in each chain stitch. * Turn, 
 ch I, and work s c in each s c of the first row, taking 
 up the back loops of the stitches. Turn, ch i, s c in 
 each s c, taking stitch through both front and back 
 
 Infant's Band 
 
 stitches beneath. Repeat from the * alternating the 
 2 rows until 27 ridges are made. 
 
 In next row, work 32 s c, leaving 10 at the end. 
 Turn and work back. 
 
 In next row, make 32 s c and 2 s c of the 10 which 
 
 were skipped. In the next ridge take up 2 of the 
 skipped ones, in next ridge 3, and in the next 2, 
 thus making same number of stitches as in begin- 
 ning. This forms a small dart at the lower edge. 
 Work four ridges plain. 
 
 To form the next dart, work to within 2 s c of the 
 lower edge and back, then to within 3 of end of pre- 
 vious ridge, then to within 2 of end, then to within 3, 
 thus dropping 10 s c. same as in the first dart. In the 
 next ridge work to the lower edge, taking up 42 s c. 
 Work 2y ridges to correspond with the first side. 
 
 Finish the band with a scallop of ( I ch, 4 d c, I ch) 
 fastened by s c. 
 
 This band measures 6 inches in width and 20 in 
 length. Use a soft quality of Saxony so it will not 
 irritate, and a fine hook to make the work rather 
 firm. 
 
 Baby's Bootees 
 
 M.\TERiALS. — Tw'o-fold Saxony or zephyr: i skein of the former 
 or .' of the latter. Silk for edge and ribbon for ties. 
 
 The features of this bootee are its toe and heel. 
 Commence at toe with chain 19, using first three 
 stitches to start the star, around which work 8 
 stars, widen (w) i star, 8 stars, w i ; fasten by 
 slip stitch in top of ist star. Chain 3 to start 
 star of next row, 8 stars, w I, I star, w i, 8 stars. 
 
 Baby's Bootee 
 
 w I, I star, w I, catch as before by si st in top of 
 1st star. Chain 3, w I star at each end of next 
 2 rows, after which work 7 rows without widen- 
 ing; fasten and clip wool. Skip the ist 9 stars 
 and tie wool in eye of next star, ch 3, 17 stars, clip 
 wool. This leaves the 9 stars. Tie wool at begin- 
 ning, ch 3 and repeat as before until you have 6 
 
rows of 17 stars each; then work 4 rows of 7 stars 
 each, which forms the heel. Sew heel together across 
 bottom and up side. This forms the foot of bootee. 
 
 Crochet a row of double knot stitch of the silk 
 to run ribbon through. There should be 25 or 26 
 groups. 
 
 After the row of knot st clip silk and tie woo! 
 in top of first loop and work 3 ch. Draw wool 
 through each of 2 ch st, making 3 ch sts on hook; 
 then tor 4th and 5th sts of star draw wool through 
 long chain of loop on either side of centre short 
 chain. 
 
 2d row — Widen one star at centre back. 
 
 3d row — Plain. 
 
 4</^ row — Knot stitch. 
 
 5</t row — Star stitch. Alternate knot stitch and 
 star stitch until you have three clusters of same, 
 widening one star in centre back every row of 
 stars; then two rows of knot stitch and two of star 
 stitch. The sock is finished with a shell edge of 
 wool and a final edge of chain stitch of the silk. 
 
 Baby's Bonnet 
 
 Materials. — One sm 
 
 all skein of white Germantown, 14 yard 
 
 white China silk, 
 
 white swan's-down of sufficient length to 
 
 go around hood. 
 
 ^4 yard white ribbon about i inch wide, 
 
 and very fine bon 
 
 e crochet-hook. 
 
 Chain 4, join, drawing up firmly to prevent open 
 centre. Within this work 8 stars, thus : Chain 2, 
 wool over, draw up loop from centre in stitch at 
 base of chain just made, draw up a loop from hole 
 in centre, wool over and draw through all, ch i. In- 
 sert hook in eye of star just formed by ch and draw 
 up a loop, I loop in back of last star, i loop in centre 
 (4 on hook), wool over and draw through all, ch 
 I and so on until there are 8 stars. Join last star 
 to first by a slip-stitch into the top horizontal stitch 
 of first star. Chain 2, I loop in ist ch, i loop in 
 top horizontal stitch of star underneath, wool over, 
 draw through all, ch i, i loop in eye just formed, 
 I in back of star just made, i in place where last 
 stitch (loop) of last star was taken, and i in next 
 eye, wool over, ch l. Continue thus. If the work 
 begins to get too full, skip an eye or bar as may be 
 necessary to keep work flat. Work 4 rows of stars. 
 If a larger hood is desired, go around once or 
 twice more. This size is for a first hood. 
 
 The Front. — Which is worked back and forth. — 
 See diagram. Chain. On this work 19 stars thus: 
 Wool over, pick up loops in 2 chains, wool over, draw 
 through, ch I, I loop in eye just formed, I in back of 
 star just formed, i in ch where last loop of last star 
 and I in ne.xt ch, (if ch is not very loose it is 
 better to skip one ch or the foundation will be apt 
 to draw in), wool over, draw through all, ch I. 
 Have 19 stars. Chain 4, turn. In beginning 2d 
 row, work one star extra out on this chain, thus : 
 
 Wool over, draw up loops in two chains farthest 
 from hook, wool over, through all, chain i, loop in 
 eye of star just made, loop in back of same star, I 
 in same space as last of preceding star, and one 
 in next horizontal (skip the eye), 4 on hook, wool 
 over, draw through, ch i, continue. Keep front of 
 
 19 itars w 
 A3 Stirs- 
 
 i3 Stirs- 
 (9 Sti-rs 
 
 Baby's Bonnet. (See Diagram) 
 
 hood straight ; widen on back in same way until 
 there are 2^ stars. By being careful to catch up 
 the loop on the edge i star can be made extra each 
 row; 19 stars in ist row, 20 in ne.xt, 21 in next, and 
 so on to 23. Then narrow each row in back till 19 
 is reached. Narrow by dropping off one star each 
 row at back edge, working star over 2d star from 
 edge. This makes 9 rows. Then work across, 
 back and forth with 19 stars until you have about 
 22 rows of stars, counting from foundation cham. 
 This forms one-half of bonnet. Continue working 
 until you have 22 rows of 19 stars. Widen at 
 back edge one star each row until there are 23 
 stars, then narrow one each row until there are 
 only 19. Sew up the back and full in to crown. 
 Line with silk and finish with swan's-down and 
 ribbon. There are 38 rows in all in front of bonnet. 
 
 Baby's Cap 
 
 This beautiful little cap is for a two-year-old 
 child. The fan-like designs are made m rows and 
 then crocheted together at the picots. On top of the 
 head the first two rows divide so that the fans fall 
 down on the sides. The ist row has 7 fans on each 
 side; the 2d row has 6 fans. On top where the fans 
 divide, in the 2d row. are joined a row of 7 fans 
 which run down over the middle of head but not 
 quite to the neck; the last of the seven should be 
 somewhat smaller to make a nicer shape. To fill 
 
in the sides of the cap, the 3d row has 2 fans dividing 
 with 3 more running downward to make it even with 
 2d row ; the 4th row has the ist fan standing side wise 
 joined to the two dividing ones in the 3d row, this 
 
 Bauy's Cap 
 
 is to shape tlie liack; to this are added 3 fans which 
 are to be even with the 2d and 3d rows. On the 
 bottom join a row of 4 fans, beginning from the 2d 
 row and going back to nape of neck. The joining is 
 all done by two chains and doubles in the picots from 
 one row to the other. Detailed instructions would 
 be too confusing for making the joinings, but a little 
 ingenuity and fitting on a child's head will be of 
 great assistance. 
 
 Use mercerized cotton or crochet silk, and start 
 with the fan in the centre of the ring. Chain 7, and 
 in the 1st ch work 6 roll stitches, over 15 times. 
 
 Detail of roll-stilch. — \\'ind the thread 15 times 
 over the hook, bring up loop through ist ch, thread 
 over the hook and draw through the coil on the hook, 
 thread over hook and draw through the one loop 
 on the hook. Repeat this for each stitch until you 
 have six. Chain 6 and fasten down into the ist ch 
 also ; this makes a shell or fan. To wind a heavy 
 ring around this fan, lay the fan with the hook in 
 its loop on the forefinger of left hand, hold it down 
 with the thumb, and with the thread wind 10 times 
 over three fingers. Take the hook out of the loop 
 and put it in again from the opposite direction, 
 slip off the ring carefully, and with the hook pass 
 over into tlie eye of the fan (the eye is where the 
 roll sts were worked in), and now work 3 s c into the 
 eye of the fan and over the ring at the same time 
 to fasten the windovers. Next work up the side 
 on ring witli u ^ c. now a tr under the ch of fan 
 (do the tr from tlie back) now a p of 5 ch. fasten 
 
 the p on top of tr, 5 s c under the ring (a tr on 
 fan, a p of 5 ch), repeat until there are 9 tr and 9 
 p. Between the first and last two rolls make 2 tr 
 and one between the others; finish with 12 s c. 
 
 If they are the same size as the design this fills 
 the ring. They need not necessarily be the same 
 size, so long as you make an odd number of p. At 
 the end of 12 s c fasten down with a si st, and 
 without cutting thread the next fan in the row can 
 be made. Chain 10 and fasten around the centre tr 
 on the wrong side, 7 more and fasten on the centre 
 p, which p is now the foundation from which the 
 next fan is made, using the hole in the picot for 
 putting in the roll sts. Where the fans are to divide 
 the fan is made exactly opposite. 
 
 If desired a China silk lining can be made for the 
 cap. It is trimmed with big chiffon rosettes where 
 the ties are fastened. 
 
 Baby's Cap. Daisy Design 
 
 Chain 8, join to form ring. 
 
 1st round. — Chain I, s c into ring 24 times; join 
 into 1st s c. 
 
 _'(/ round. — Chain 3 ; roll stitch into each stitch of 
 preceding round. Make rolls by throwing thread 
 over needle 20 times, fasten in s c of ist round, and 
 drawing off all at once; ch I. 
 
 Baby's Cap. Daisy Design 
 
 ?(/ round. — Chain 3. Cover this chain with 12 s c, 
 and fasten into ist space of preceding round; s c 
 into next space between rolls, ch 5, fasten to cov- 
 ered ch, turn and fill cli. Repeat around cap. 
 
 4th round. — Chain 3, fasten between 2 eyelets of 
 3d round with 1 c. ch 3, fasten in top of 1 c, ch 3, 
 fasten in same place, ch 3, fasten in same place, 
 
ch 3, fasten in top of next eyelet. This makes clover 
 leaf. Work them all around cap. 
 
 jth round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of leaf, ch 5, 
 fasten in top of next leaf, etc. 
 
 6th round. — Work 3 rolls of 20 stitches on ch be- 
 tween each leaf around cap. 
 
 yth round. — Another round of leaves, fastening 
 between each roll. 
 
 8th round. — Repeat 5th round. 
 
 ptii round. — Twenty daisies, made separately, 
 sewed together, and then sewed around cap. Keep 
 work tight enough to shape cap. 
 
 loth round. — Fasten on side of daisy, ch 3, skip 2 
 rolls and fasten in same daisy, ch 5, fasten on side 
 of next daisy, ch 3, skip 2 rolls, fasten in same daisy 
 again. 
 
 Repeat around cap. 
 
 nth round. — Clover leaves all around cap. 2 to 
 each daisy, i in each place where ch is joined to 
 daisy. 
 
 I2th round. — Repeat 5th round. This completes 
 crown. 
 
 l^th row. — Seventeen daisies, i to every 2 clover 
 leaves, except 9th which has 3 clover leaves. 
 
 Leave off 8 clover leaves to form back. 
 
 14th row. — Repeat 5th round. 7 st to each chain, 
 fastening in top of each daisy. 
 
 I^th row. — Clover leaves across front, I to each 
 daisy. 
 
 l6th roii'.- — Repeat 5th round. 6 st to each ch. 
 
 lyth row.- — Repeat 13th row. 
 
 i8th roil'. — Repeat 14th row. 
 
 ipth roiv. — Repeat 15th row. 
 
 20th rozv. — Repeat i6th row. 
 
 2ist ro'du. — Daisies all around, 17 for front, 13 
 for back. 
 
 To make daisies. — Chain 6. fasten to form ring. 
 Chain 2. Make 12 rolls of 12 threads each, fasten 
 12th roll to 1st, cut thread and fasten. Sew daisies 
 together, beginning where thread hangs loose, so 
 that the loose end may be hidden, and fasten 2 rolls 
 in one to 2 in the other. Have thread long enough 
 to sew together I round of daisies. In sewing 
 daisies to cap, do not break thread, but fasten in ch 
 of last row. 
 
 Baby's Cap 
 
 Matekials. — Thfi 
 
 spools 
 
 diet silk, hook to correspond. 
 
 Chain 6, join to form ring. 
 
 1st round. — Chain 2. d c into ring 28 times. 
 
 2d round. — Make one roll in top of each st of ist 
 round. 
 
 Make roll by throwing thread over hook 20 
 times, and taking all off at once. 
 
 jrf round. — Chain 3. d c between first 2 rolls, 
 ch 3, s c into top of last st, repeat until there are 
 three picots, ch 3, s c between next 2 rolls. This 
 makes clover leaf. Work them all around. 
 
 4th round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of first clover 
 
 leaf, ch 7, fasten in top of next leaf, ch 7, fasten in 
 next, etc. 
 
 §th round. — Make 5 roll stitches in each space of 
 4th round. 
 
 6th round. — Repeat 3d round. 
 
 ph round. — Chain 5 between each leaf unless cap 
 cups too much, when 6 or 7 should be made. 
 
 8th round. — Repeat 5th round, 3 rolls to each 
 space. 
 
 gth round. — Repeat 3d round, I leaf to 2 rolls, then 
 I to 4. alternate thus around cap. 
 
 lOth round. — Repeat 7th round. 
 
 nth round. — Repeat 8th round. 
 
 I2th round. — Repeat 9th round, I leaf to every 4 
 oils. 
 
 l^th round. — Repeat 12th round, I leaf between 
 each one of 12th round. 
 
 Baby's Cap 
 
 14th round. — Chain 3, s c in top of leaf of 13th 
 round, ch 3, d c in top of leaf of 12th round, etc. 
 This completes crown. 
 
 i^th row. — Repeat 8th round, 2 rolls to each 
 space. Leave off 6 leaves to form back. Clip silk. 
 
 l6th row. — Fasten in first leaf of 15th row and 
 repeat 6th round. 
 
 ////; roiv. — Chain 4 between each leaf. 
 
 i8tli row. — Repeat 15th row. Clip silk. 
 
 iQtIi rozi.'. — Repeat i6th row, fastening in first leaf 
 of 1 8th row. 
 
 20th row. — Repeat 17th row. 
 
 2lst rov.'. — Shell of 10 rolls at corner, fasten 
 in 2d leaf of front, shell of 7 rolls in next leaf and 
 fasten in next, etc. If there are too many leaves, 
 
skip 2 in place of I at intervals. There should be 
 about 17 shells across front, and six across back. 
 
 22d rozv. — Chain 3, s c in space between first 2 
 stitches of first shell, ch 3, s c between next 2 sts, etc., 
 entirely around cap. 
 
 This cap will fit a child, 2 or even 3 years old. If 
 a smaller one is desired make 24 d c in 1st round. 
 
 Baby's Hood 
 
 This hood requires i skein of Shetland floss. 
 
 Chain 8, join. 
 
 1st row. — Chain 3, s c in st, * ch 3. s c in next * 
 7 times, making 8 loops. 
 
 2d row. — * Single crochet in ist st of ch. 3 s c in 
 next, I s c in next, miss s c. * 8 times: join by si st, 
 turn. 
 
 ?(/ roiv. — Miss I St. * I s c in next, 3 s c in next. I 
 in next, miss 2; * repeat around, si st at end of row, 
 then turn. 
 
 4th rozv. — Like 31I, always taking back loop of st. 
 
 ^th row. — Single crochet in each st, making 3 s c 
 in I at point. 
 
 6th rozv. — Three s c in each point, missing 2 s c 
 between points. 
 
 /th rozv. — Like 5th. 
 
 8th, gth rozvs. — Like 6th. Now work 8 rounds 
 plain bean st. (See directions for bean stitch, page 
 44-) 
 
 Hood 
 
 18th rozv. — Work bean st, missing 
 of row. Turn. 
 
 jQth row. — Treble crochet in bean, 
 next bean, * repeat around face. 
 
 20th rozv. — A bean in each tr c. 
 
 2ist, 22d, 2jd, 24th rozvs. — Plain bean st, using 
 pink, for 23d row. 
 
 25th rozv. — All the way around work loops, s c 
 in st, ch 3, miss I, s c in next. 
 
 Trim with ribbon as shown in cut. 
 
 Baby's Shawl 
 
 The centre is in star stitch. Chain 150 on which 
 work a row of 70 stars and clip wool. 
 
 8 beans at end 
 * ch I, tr c in 
 
 Baby's Shawl 
 
 2d rozv — Work a star over each one of the first 
 row. Break the wool at the end of each row. 
 To keep the sides straight, in every alternate row 
 begin by placing a star over the first two stars, 
 and working an e.xtra star at the end of the row. 
 This keeps the same number of stars. Work un- 
 til the shawl is square. 
 
 The border is in five rows. 
 
 1st rozv — Double crochet with 2 ch between, mak- 
 ing holes for ihe rilibon. 
 
 2d rozv — Wool over the needle twice, take a st in 
 the top of a d c. wool over, draw wool through 2 sts 
 on the hook, wool over, take a st in the next d c, 
 crochet all the sts on the hook ofif two at a time, 
 ch 2, d c in the st at the crossing of the treble. 
 The next cross tr begins in the same d c as the pre- 
 ceding tr ends. Make the work full at the corners 
 so it will lie flat. 
 
 3^ rozv — Shell of 2 d c, 2 ch, 2 d c in the st be- 
 tween 2 tr, and fasten by s c in the st between the 
 ne.xt 2 tr. 
 
 4//; rozv — Work the same shell in a shell, with a 
 d c in the s c between. 
 
r,th roic — In each shell of the 4th row make 3 
 d c, 3 picots by chaining five for each p and 
 fastening back into the top of the 3d d c, 3 d c, 
 s c in the d c between the shells. 
 
 Run the ribbon through the open spaces of the 
 first row, and make a bow at each corner. 
 
 Baby's Bootees 
 
 This requires a little more than one skein of Shet- 
 land floss. (See directions for bean stitch, page 44.) 
 
 Chain 34, join. Work 14 rounds of bean st, at end 
 of each round work a s c in first bean of round, then 
 turn. Work 2d round with pink, 
 
 I^th round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch i, d c 
 in next bean *. Repeat. 
 
 l6th round. — A bean in each d c. 
 
 ijth round. — A s c in each st, working 3 s c in 8th 
 and I2th beans. Turn. 
 
 l8th round. — Single crochet in s c, working 3 s c 
 in I between widening*. Turn, .-\lways take back 
 loop of St. 
 
 ipth round. — In this round widen by making 2 s c 
 in every alternate st in space between widenings of 
 17th round. 
 
 20th, 2ist rounds. — Single crochet in each s c. 
 
 22d round. — Increase 6 sts around toe. 
 
 2^d, 24th, 2^th, 26th rounds. — Like 20th round. 
 
 Around top work loops, as before. 
 
 Baby's Bootee 
 
 To make sole. — Chain 6, work 5 rows of s c, wid- 
 ening I st at end of each row by putting 2 s c in 
 last St. Work 4 rows plain, then 2 rows, narrowing 
 at end of each by taking 2 sts together. 
 
 Two rows plain. Four rows, widening I st at end 
 of each. 
 
 Two rows plain. Six rows, narrowing i st at end 
 of each. One row plain. 
 
 With needle and wool sew in sole. Run ribbon 
 around ankle. 
 
 Baby's Petticoat 
 
 The model was in cream Saxony with a tiny blue 
 stripe, and blue edge. Work an easy chain about 
 24 inches long, it must be full long to fit on the 
 bodice. 
 
 ■i 
 
 V. 4 
 
 
 r- k\, *s- 
 
 
 
 
 iC 
 
 Baby's Petticuat 
 
 1st roz<.' ■ — Double crochet. 
 
 2d rozi' — Three ch to stand for first stitch, I d c 
 in next * i ch, miss a st, I d c in next ; repeat from 
 •* and put an extra d c at the end to strengthen the 
 edge. 
 
 3d roiv — Three ch to begin, I d c in everv st, 
 working into ch as if it was a d c. 
 
 4//z roiu — Three ch to begin, d c in every st. 
 
 5//1. roiv — Like 4th. 
 
 6th rozv — Increase by putting 2 sts in every loth 
 
 St. 
 
 7//1, 8//; and gth roii'i — Plain (that is, without in- 
 crease). 
 
 loth rozv — Increase by putting 2 sts in every nth 
 
 St. 
 
 nth, 12//; and i^lli rozvs — Plain. 
 
 This is far enough for a placket to suit some; 
 if it is required longer increase in every 12th st, 
 then work one, two or three plain rows, as wished. 
 As soon as the placket is long enough unite in a 
 round and work the star stitch. 
 
Chain 3, work a row of stars and join at end 
 of row by slipping the hook through the top of 
 the first star of row, before finishing the final 
 ch, then finish the ch in the usual way. Any way 
 will do, but this is a trifle snugger than some ways. 
 
 The 2d and 3d rows are like the 1st. 
 
 4tli round — Like 2d except that you increase 
 every 12th star, putting three stars where there 
 were but two in the previous row. This is man- 
 aged by working the star sts a little closer and 
 seeing that the last stitch of the last of the increase 
 stars is in the eye of the last of two stars be- 
 low. After this row you probably will not 
 need to increase again, but if you feel it would be 
 best, it is done as shown. Work 2 rows of blue 
 when the petticoat is about 9 or 9 1-2 inches deep, 
 and then work on till the petticoat is a trifle shorter 
 than you wish it to be (about 10 1-2 inches for a 
 baby up to a year), when you work a row of close 
 edge around, working in blue. 
 
 Edge. — Work a d c in the eye of a star; * work 
 2 d c in the next eye of a star, 3 ch, I s c in the 
 top of the last d c, l more d c in the same eye (3 
 d c in all, with a picot on top of 2d stitch), I s c 
 in the eye of the next star, and repeat from * all 
 around. Crochet a border around the placket hole, 
 run in ends, and sew the petticoat to a bodice. 
 
 This same petticoat, worked in four-fold zephyr 
 or good Germantown, made a trifle longer and tied 
 round the waist loosely with a ribbon, was used 
 with excellent results by a mother for putting on 
 the baby when going out in the baby-buggy to 
 keep the lower part of the body warm. It was an 
 easy matter to slip it on and off under its frock. 
 
 Baby's Bed Socks 
 
 Materials. — One skc 
 
 of wliite ZL-i.li; 
 
 skein of pink 
 
 To begin the upper part make a chain of 68 sts. 
 
 1st roiv. — Always skip the first st, take i st up from 
 each of the next 39 ch, leaving all on hook ; going 
 back chain off 12. 
 
 2d row. — Take 11 sts up from the last 11 of the 
 12 sts chained off in the former row and 4 sts from 
 the chain, then chain off 20 going back and crochet 
 5th and 6th and also 15th and i6th sts together. 
 
 J J rov!. — Take up 21 sts and chain off 26 going 
 back, narrow on each side of the 8 middle sts. 
 
 4th and 5th rows. — Same as 3d row, going for- 
 ward take up 4 sts from the chain, going back chain 
 off 4 more at the other end. 
 
 6th to l6th roivs. — Proceed as before, but in the 
 9th row chain 3d and 4th and also 3d and 4tli to the 
 last together as l, and from 13th to i6th rows work 
 each half separately. 
 
 Next work a row at the top consisting of i ch in 
 every st in the former row, turn the work around. 
 ch 3 and work a row of d c, I in each ch, at the end 
 
 turn the work again and work 3 ch, go back with a 
 row of d c as before. 
 
 To make the turn-over, work on the wrong side 
 only, breaking the wool at the ends. 
 
 Baby's Bed Sock 
 
 1st row. — Fasten the white zephyr and ch 3, * 
 take I stitch up from the next and another from 
 the one following and draw wool through these 
 two, then draw it through the 2 sts on the hook and 
 ch I, repeat from *. 
 
 2d to ^th rows. — As ist row, the 2d and 4th rows 
 to be worked with colored wool. Work scallops 
 around the edge as follows: ch 5, i ch in the first 
 one, draw wool through the 2 sts on hook and 
 work I ch into every other one in the former row. 
 
 Work a star with colored wool on the front of the 
 shoe. Then make a chain string for tying the shoe, 
 draw it through the first row of d c at the top of the 
 shoe. Trim the ends of this chain with little balls 
 made of both colors of the wool. 
 
 Tlie sole is composed of 21 rows. Begin with 8 
 ch and add one st on each side in the second row. 
 In the 9th row narrow one on each side and in the 
 ]2th row again add one. In the 20th row narrow 
 I to shape the toe. ,\t last work a row of ch around 
 the sole ; then take the colored wool and connect the 
 upper part and tlie sole with ch sts worked oa the 
 right side. 
 
 Baby's Socks 
 
 These pretty little socks are made with two 
 colors of fine Saxony wool. Pink and white are the 
 colors used for the mode! ; pink for the slipper part, 
 and white tor the instep and leg. A scallop of pink, 
 also, finishes the top. 
 
 Begin at the ankle with the white, make a ch of 
 40 sts and join in a ring to first st, put the hook 
 through the 2d st of ch, wool over and draw it 
 through; keep this st on the hook and take up 10 
 more sts in the same way. There will now be 12 
 sts on the hook, which are to be worked off 2 at a 
 time, by putting the wool over the hook and 
 drawing it through 2 sts, wool over and draw 
 it through 2 more, repeat until all are worked off. 
 
Then insert the Iiook under the first little perpen- 
 dicular bar made in the previous row, wool over 
 the hook, draw it through, pick up the 2d little bar, 
 wool over and draw it through as before ; so con- 
 tinue until there are again 12 sts on the hook, which 
 work off, 2 at a time, as in first row. 
 
 Make 12 rows of these little squares for the instep. 
 
 Baby's Sock 
 
 break off the wool, and begin at the back with pink 
 wool. Make a d c in each st all around the ankle 
 and instep, widening by putting in an extra d c at 
 each corner of the toe. The next row is made like 
 the last. 
 
 Now make two rows of d c without widening. 
 Then two rows more which are to be narrowed by 
 missing a st at each corner of the toe and in the 
 middle of the back. Turn the slipper wrong side out, 
 and crochet the edges together along the bottom of 
 the foot, with s c. 
 
 For the straps across the instep, with the pink wool 
 make a ch of 9 sts, make a d c in the fourth st from 
 the hook, a d c in each of the 5 remaining ch, tlien, 
 beginning on the right-hand side, make a d c in 
 each d c around the ankle, leaving the white ch on 
 the inside: make another ch of q sts at the other side 
 of slipper and work back on it with d c, break off 
 the wool and fasten the ends on the inside. Make 
 a row of scallops around the top of slipper. 
 
 Now, with the white wool, make a d c in each 
 of the little white loops of the foundation ch. 
 Make 2 more rows of d c around the leg. Then 
 make a puff st in every other d c all around. 
 Puff st is made as follows : wool over the hook, 
 insert hook in the work, wool over and draw it 
 through, draw the st out J^ inch long, repeat twice, 
 when there will be 7 long sts on the hook, wool 
 over and draw it through all 7 sts at once, wool 
 over, draw it through the I st. For the 5th row 
 make a d c in each ch on top of the row of puff sts. 
 Make i more row of d c, then a row of puffs, 2 rows 
 
 of d c, a third row of puffs, and finish with a row 
 of scallops in the pink wool. 
 
 Fasten the straps across the instep with a cord 
 and tassels made of the pink wool, or with a nar- 
 row pink ribbon. 
 
 Baby's Socks 
 
 Materi.m,s.— .\ full half-ounce of cream and a full half-ounce 
 of baby pink Saxonv; a No. 14 bone hook, or a hook which will 
 make a stitch about 1-7 of an inch long, and a "short" quar- 
 ter of an inch deep. 
 
 Use cream wool and make 21 easy chain. Turn, 
 miss I ch, work a d c in each of the remaining 20 
 ch. 
 
 2d row. — One ch to turn, i d c in the back loop 
 of each of the 20 sts. 
 
 Repeat the second row till 12 rows are done; the 
 work will be in ridges. 
 
 Xow make 15 easy ch, miss i and work 34 sts. 
 
 2d row. — Make i ch to turn, and work 34 sts. 
 Keep up the ridges throughout. 
 
 Repeat the 2d row till you have 12 long rows. 
 
 Xow break off the wool and then work the second 
 side of the ankle like the first on 20 sts. When the 
 12 rows are done, always keeping up the ridge 
 character, break off the wool, leaving an end, and 
 sew the two sides of the back together. 
 
 N01C make the foot. — Use the pink wool; make a 
 d c in the seam, make 14 d c along six ridges, 14 d c 
 along the instep, I d c in the corner, 5 on the 
 ridges across the toe; I in the next corner, 14 on 
 the second side of instep and 14 along ridges at the 
 bottom of the le.T:, alto'jether 64 sts. Join to the first 
 stitch and work three more rounds, joining each 
 round as completed on 64 sts. 
 
 $th round. — One ch to begin, work 28 d c down one 
 side, take 2 d c together and work I over it. work the 
 3 in the middle of the toe, take 2 together, and work 
 the remaining 28 and join. This decreases 2 sts. 
 
 6th round. — Plain, without decrease. 
 
 Baby's Sock 
 
 jth round. — Plain, till you come to within 2 sts of 
 the centre 3, take those 2 together, work the centre 3 
 as usual, then decrease again ; finish the round and 
 join on the centre st, which was made over the sew- 
 
ing up the back. There should be 60 sts, including 
 the one made at the back, on which you do the join- 
 ing of the round. 
 
 8th round.— Make 2 ch, 3 d c, decrease, then 
 work around till 5 sts are left ; decrease ; work the 
 3 sts and join to the 2 ch. (If you find that I ch 
 makes a better joining st in your style of work, 
 only make i ch ). 
 
 pth roxind. — Make the ch, 2 d c, decrease, i st 
 in each st till within 2 of the centre 3 at toe, decrease, 
 work the centre 3, and work the other half of the 
 round to match that first done, join as usual. 
 
 loth round. — Two ch, I d c, decrease, work a d c 
 in every st till there is only i st unworked between 
 the worked side and the central 3 at the toe; take the 
 unworked st and one of the central 3 together, work 
 the middle st of the central 3, then narrow by taking 
 2 together ; work down the side, till there are only 3 
 sts left. Take 2 together, work the last st in the 
 ordinary way and join to the first stitch of the round, 
 which is the small crochet chain made at beginning. 
 Join neatly up the middle of the sole without draw- 
 ing the sts tight. 
 
 Edge Round Top of Leg. — Use pink wool, and 
 holding the wrong side of the sock toward you, 
 make a d c in the seam at the back ; * then make 2 
 ch, 5 tr, in the next depression between ridges, 2 ch, 
 I d c in the next depressed ridge, and repeat from *. 
 This is the style of work, but get 8 scallops in the 
 round. 
 
 2rf round of top. — Still use pink wool and make a 
 d c in the back loop of the first tr of the first group; 
 one d c in back of next st. * 3 ch, i d c in next st : 
 repeat from * once, then make a d c on the last tr in 
 the group. 
 
 Edge each scallop the same way. Then tack the 
 scallops down lightly and loosely all round. 
 
 For Strap. — Still use the pink wool, make 3 ch. 
 
 1st row. — Miss i ch, make a d c in eacli of the two 
 remaining sts. 
 
 2d row. — One ch to turn, I d c in the back loop 
 of each st. 
 
 Repeat the 2d row till 38 or 40 rows are done, or 
 until the strap will go comfortably round the ankle. 
 Then leave a pretty long end of wool, and crochet 
 a tiny chain for a buttonhole, fastening the end of 
 the chain neatly to the strap. 
 
 Turn in the other end neatly or crochet a tiny bit 
 to strengthen where the button is sewn on. but be 
 sure not to make it clumsy. There may be 3 sts in 
 width in this strap. Of course in this case make 4 
 ch to begin. 
 
 Baby's Bath Robe 
 
 Ger. 
 
 at the neck, and also the number of stitches in the 
 first row. 
 
 Begin at the neck with a chain of 70 stitches of 
 the white Germantown, turn and work a half- 
 double in each st of the ch. To make a half-double 
 throw wool over hook, take up a st, then draw 
 wool through 3 sts on the hook. 
 
 2d roii' — Chain 3, take 2 sts in the 3 ch, I in 
 top of last h d c and i in each of the ne.xt 2 sts, 
 making 5 on the hook for the first star. For the 
 second star take a st in side of the star, i in h d c 
 below and in each of next 2 sts. Work 11 stars, 
 widen, 14 stars, widen, 11 stars. 
 
 3d row — Turn and work a h d c in the eye of 
 each star and in the 2 sts at the top of each. 
 
 This robe is large enough for a baby six months 
 old. If a larger or smaller robe is desired, in- 
 crease or decrease the number of stitches to begin 
 
 Baby's Bath Robe 
 
 To widen this row work 2 h d c in each side of 
 the widened star of the previous row. 
 
 4th ro'LV — Eleven stars, widen. 2 stars, widen, 7 
 stars, widen, 7 stars, widen, 2 stars, widen, 11 stars. 
 
 5//1 roii' — Same as 3d row. 
 
 6th row — Eleven stars, widen, 3 stars, widen, 
 work across the back, widen. 3 stars, widen, 11 stars. 
 
 yth row — Same as 3d and 5th rows. 
 
 8th roiv — Eleven stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 12 
 stars, widen, 12 stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 11 
 stars. In this row the widening in middle of back 
 begins. 
 
 9//1 row — Same as 3d, 5th. and 7th rows. 
 
 10//; ro-<v — Eleven stars, widen. 6 stars, widen, 12 
 stars, widen, 12 stars, widen. 6 stars, widen, 11 stars. 
 
 11//1 roxv — Same as 7th row. These 11 rows fin- 
 ish the yoke to tops of the sleeves. 
 
 Begin at the right corner, work 11 stars, widen, 
 
turn, ch 3, and work a row of h d c, then a row of 
 stars, then another of h d c until 5 short rows are 
 worked, fasten off. Skip the h d c between the wi- 
 denings on the shoulder, fasten wool and work stars 
 across the back to first widening of left shoulder, 
 turn, and make 5 rows same as for front. Work 
 the left front same as the right. 
 
 Begin again at corner, work h d c to the first 
 armhole, ch 12, work across the back, ch 12. work 
 to the end of row. Turn. 
 
 The following 40 rows are of stars and h d c 
 alternating, and in every alternate star row widen 
 one star under each arm and one in middle of back. 
 To keep the front edges even, widen a h d c at the 
 end of each row. 
 
 For the sleeve take up 25 stars around the arm- 
 hole, fasten last to the first, turn for the h d c rows. 
 Make the sleeve 12 rows long. With the pink work 
 a row of h d c in eyes of the stars, to draw in the 
 sleeve into cufif. Work two more rows with the 
 pink, then finish the edge with a scallop of the 
 white. Work the second sleeve same as the first. 
 
 With the pink begin at the right corner at neck 
 and work a row of double crochet with i ch be- 
 tween across the neck. Work h d c down the front, 
 across the bottom, and up the right front. Turn 
 and work another row of h d c around the garment. 
 Place close enough together to make the work lie 
 flat. With the white yarn work a row of shells 
 (6 d c fastened with single crochet) all around the 
 garment and across the neck. 
 
 Make a twisted cord of pink and white to run 
 through the neck. Make a ball for each end. 
 
 Baby's Nightingale 
 
 Materials. — Four balls or skeins of white Pompadour wool. 2 
 balls of color desired, ; yards of ribbon, bone crochet-hook. 
 
 With the white wool work a chain of 56 stitches, 
 turn and work a double crochet in 8th st from end 
 
 of ch, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d 
 st, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d st; 
 continue in this way along ch, ending with a d c in 
 1st st of ch. You will then have seventeen squares 
 
 Baby's Nightingale 
 
 Shape of Baby's Nightingale 
 
 through which ribbon is to be run to tie around 
 neck. (See illustration.) Chain 4, turn and work 
 shell of 3 d c in ist square, ch 2 and work shell in 
 2d square, ch 2 and work shell in 3d square, 
 ch 2 and work shell in 4th square, ch 2 and work 
 shell in 5th square, ch 2 and work another shell in 
 5th square. Continue in this manner across, work- 
 ing double shells in the 9th and 13th squares, so that 
 work will form a square as shown in cut. After 
 working shell in last square, ch i and work an 
 extra d c in square. Chain of 4, turn and work 
 shell between the extra d c and shell in preceding 
 row. Continue across, working a shell in ch be- 
 tween shells of preceding row. working double shells 
 for widening at the same point as in previous row. 
 Continue in this manner until you have fifteen rows 
 of white. 
 
 Border. — Start at one side of front with colored 
 wool and work i row across, then i row of 
 white, I row of color, l row white, ending with 
 I row of color, being sure to work the double shells 
 at same place to keep it square. 
 
 Collar. — Work in same manner as the body, i 
 row of white in the squares at neck, working double 
 shells in same squares as for body, I row of color, 
 I row white, I row color, i row white, ending with 
 I row color. 
 
 Edge Around Nightingale. — Start at one of the 
 points with white wool and between double shells 
 work a shell of 7 d c. fastening with s c in next 
 square, shell of 7 d c in next square, continue in 
 this manner around nightingale, having a shell at 
 lach point. Finish the shells with picot edge of 
 the colored wool. Tie bow of ribbon on ist and 
 3d points at the double shells between 3d and 4th 
 row from bottom. Tie first point together between 
 
 37 
 
3d and 4th rows from bottom at the 8th shell on 
 each side from point to form sleeve. Tie 3d ooint 
 in same manner, the middle point being centre of 
 back. Run ribbon through squares at neck and 
 leave ends tp tie. 
 
 Baby's Mittens 
 
 Use white Saxony and a fine bone hook. The 
 mittens are made thr(inc,Hiniit in single crochet bv 
 
 Baby's Mitten 
 
 taking the front part of the stitch and working 
 around and around. 
 
 Begin with chain of 46 closed to form a ring. 
 Work two rows of s c, then a row of double crochet 
 to run ribbon through, ^^'ork eight more rows of 
 s c, which brings the work to base of the thumb. 
 In the next row begin widening for the thumb by 
 placing 2 stitches in one. In the following seven 
 rows widen 2 sts, one each side of the thumb in 
 each row. The 16 widened sts form the thumb. 
 Fasten the last and first one together and crochet 
 the thumb. To narrow off the thumli take 2 sts in 
 one to narrow, leaving tlie thumb the desired 
 length. 
 
 Fasten on the wool for the hand, and work eight 
 rows before the narrowing begins. To narrow off 
 the tip, narrow a st on each side in every alternate 
 row for eight rows, then narrow three or four in 
 each row until the sts are all narrowed off. The 
 worker can tell how often to narrow to shape the 
 end right. 
 
 Crochet two rows of shells across the top with a 
 ch of two fastened into each st of the last row of 
 shells. Run baby ribbon through the row of d c 
 
 in the wrist. The mittens can be made larger by 
 beginning with more stitches, and widening more 
 for the thiunb. 
 
 Baby's Mittens 
 
 This requires about one skein Shetland floss. 
 
 Chain 28, join. (See directions for bean stitch, 
 page 44. ) 
 
 jst round. — Work around in bean st. 
 
 2d round. — With pink work around in bean st. 
 
 jrf, 4th, ^th rounds. — Bean st with white. 
 
 dtli round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch I, d c 
 in next bean *, repeat. 
 
 /th round. — A bean in each d c. 
 
 Stii round. — Single crochet in each st except in 
 centre of round, work 2 s c in a st, I s c in next, 2 
 s c in next, turn. 
 
 pth round. — Single crochet in s c, taking back 
 loop of st, turn at end of each round. 
 
 lOtJi round. — Single crochet in s c, widening as 
 before, leaving 3 sts between widenings. 
 
 nth round. — Single crochet in s c. 
 
 I2tli round. — Like loth round, having 5 sts be- 
 tween widenings. 
 
 I^th round. — Single crochet in s c. 
 
 ipli round. — Single crochet in s c at 1st widen- 
 ing, ch 3. miss 9 sts between widenings for thumb. 
 
 Work 8 rounds plain, working s c on 3 ch. 
 
 2^d round. — Narrow every 9th st. Continue nar- 
 rowing in same place in every round till closed. 
 
 Join wool to thumb; work 7 rounds, then nar- 
 
 Babv's Mitten 
 
 row every 3d st, continue narrowing in same place 
 in each round until closed. 
 
 Aroimd wrist work loops, s c in st, ch 3, miss I, 
 s c in next. Run ribbon through at wrists. 
 
Infant's Sack 
 
 This sack is designed for a year-old child, and 
 takes five skeins of white Saxony. If color is 
 desired, as shown in the illustration, one skein 
 will be required. The yoke is made in rib-stitch and 
 with the long shoulder effect. Start at the neck 
 with ch 51. 
 
 ist row — Twelve s c in 12 ch, beginning on 2d 
 ch. Increase in next ch by working 3 s c in i ch st ; 
 now 24 s c for back, increase on next ch; now 12 
 s c for front. 
 
 2d row — Chain i, s c in each s c to the in- 
 crease. Increase in first and last st of the increase 
 and plain between. This makes the shoulder-piece 
 between the increases. Single crochet to the next in- 
 crease and do the same here. Finish off the row with 
 s c. Repeat this row until the yoke is deep enough, 
 which should be when there are 8 or 9 ribs done. 
 
 For the long shoulders, work back and forth be- 
 tween the increases over the shoulders, missing 
 a st at the end each time until only a s c remains. 
 
 The sleeves are worked on these extended points. 
 Connect corners by ch 6 for under the arm, and 
 work around with d c for first row. 
 
 2d row. — Make 3 ch, now a st like this : Wool 
 over the hook, bring up a loop around a d c and 
 draw it out about three-quarters of an inch, repeat 
 once more, then wool over the hook and draw 
 through all the loops, now i ch ; this completes the 
 stitch. Make this stitch into every other d c. 
 
 3d row — Chain 3 and now the same st into each 
 st of previous row, making them around 4 of the 
 top loops. This is to raise them. Make the sleeve 
 13 rows in length, then work on the cuff of 4 ribs. 
 Edge this with a ruffle of 4 d c in every other s c, 
 with a 3-ch picot between. 
 
 Work the skirt of the sack the same as the 
 sleeves, 15 row's in length. Edge with a Inr^e scal- 
 
 Infant's Sack 
 lop at the bottom made with 8 d c and a 3-ch picot 
 between, the remainder edge vv'ith a ruffle same as 
 the sleeve. 
 
 Also work a ruffle at the edge of the yoke. 
 
 If a color is used for yoke and cuffs, then all the 
 ruffles and scallops are edged with 3 ch and si sts 
 of it. 
 
 Infant's Bootees 
 
 This bootee is made of twofold Saxony and is 
 widened on top like a slipper. The top of the foot, 
 however, is not ribbed, as it is crocheted around 
 and around, making the sole as well as the upper. 
 
 Chain 13, around which make a row of s c, 
 widening 2 s c at each end of chain and at point half 
 
 way between on one side, taking up back part of st 
 only on upper side, and both parts on sole. Continue 
 thus widening for 5 rows, then widen in centre front 
 only 2 s c every other row for 14 rows, making 19 
 rows in all. Then work back and forth across sole, 
 taking up both sts of 20 s c for 14 rows, then leav- 
 ing oft" I s c at each end of next 4 rows, fasten wool 
 and clip. Tie wool in at centre point in front, ch 18, 
 on which make 16 s c, which brings you to front part 
 already crocheted. Work on down to sole, catching 
 into sole by si st. turn and work back to end. Con- 
 tinue around the sole, working up and down, taking 
 up back st and catching into sole, so that the rows 
 of top will correspond to rows of sole; the model 
 has 25 ribs or 50 rows. 
 
 Run ribbon through at ankle and finish top with 
 fancy edge. 
 
 Child's Ball 
 
 Take a large ball of yarn, or a very thin rubber 
 one. Commence the cover of worsted by making 
 a ch of 4 sts; join in a circle, and work in tr st, in- 
 creasing at regular intervals until the work is large 
 enough to cover one-half the ball; then work a few 
 rows without increasing, draw the cover over the 
 ball, letting the wrong side of the work be outside, 
 and work the other half to correspond with the first 
 half, decreasing at regular intervals and putting the 
 hook in from the inside. A pattern of bright 
 flowers worked with worsted round the centre adds 
 greatly to the attractiveness of the ball to a child. 
 
Child's Cloak 
 
 Materials.— Five skein 
 
 ting silk, 5 yards No. i^A 
 bon, 6 fancy pearl buttons 
 medium-sized crochet-hook. 
 
 yard of 
 
 This cloak is for a child one year old, in short 
 clothes. 
 
 Begin at the neck with a chain of 112 stitches. 
 Work a s c in 2d St from the hook, and in next 2 
 
 Child's Cloak 
 
 stitches, 3 s c in the next, s c in each of next 3 stitches 
 of chain, * skip I ch, 3 s c. 3 s c in next. 3 s c and 
 repeat from * to end of the chain, thus starting 14 
 points for the yoke. Chain 2, turn, work s c in 
 each s c of the first row, taking back of the stitch. 
 Repeat until the yoke is 18 rows deep, placing 3 
 sts in the point in every alternate row. 
 
 The body is attached to the under side of the 
 yoke, under the points. Instead of working the first 
 row around the points, go straight across diagonally. 
 Begin at the corner of the front, and work d c for 
 the first row, placing them close enough so the work 
 will not draw in. Chain 3, turn, work a star over 
 every 2 d c to the middle of the space between the 
 2d and 3d points of yoke, skip the 3d, 4th and 5th 
 points for the sleeve, working the next star in the 
 middle of the space between the 5th and 6th points, 
 work stars across the back to the middle of the space 
 between the 9th and loth points, skip loth. nth 
 and 1 2th points for the other sleeve and work next 
 star in middle of space between the 12th and 13th 
 points, finish to the corner of yoke. Chain 3, turn, 
 d c in eye of the last star, then d c back in the 2 st 
 at the top of the last star, thus making a small stack 
 
 stitcli. Repeat the stacks to the end of the row, 
 placing one over each star. The next row is of 
 stars, placing a star over each stack, and widen- 
 ing a star under each arm and in middle of the back. 
 To widen work a star between 2 stars without tak- 
 ing any stitches of the row preceding. The body is 
 all made of these 2 rows until it is the desired length, 
 widening as in the preceding row in every alter- 
 nate star row. Work a row of s c across the bot- 
 tom, then break the wool and fasten to the upper 
 corner of the left side of yoke and work a row of 
 s c across the fronts and the bottom. 
 
 Fasten the wool in the lower side of the armhole 
 and work a row of 26 stars for the sleeve. Sleeves 
 are made same as the body, working 10 rows, then 
 join the edges. Begin the cuff by a s c in every alter- 
 nate stitch of last row, work around for 4 rows, 
 then a row of d c. with 2 ch between for the ribbon, 
 and finish with a row of shells, each of 6 d c, joined 
 by s c. 
 
 Begin at the right corner for the collar, working 
 a row of d c with 2 ch between for the ribbon. Turn, 
 ch 3 and work a row cf stars by placing a star over 
 each stitch beneath insiead of over every 2 stitches, 
 thus making the fullness for rounding the collar. 
 The next row is stacks, then a star row, then an- 
 other stack row. Finish the collar and each side of 
 the front with a row of shells, each of 6 d c joined 
 by s c, and made close enough to round the cor- 
 ners of the collar nicely. Edge the yoke around the 
 points with shells, then finish the shells of yoke, 
 collar, fronts, and sleeves with knitting silk, by 
 chaining 3 and joining by s c in each st of shells. 
 
 Run the narrow ribbon through the spaces made 
 by the widenings in each point and leave a loop and 
 end at each point. Use the wider ribbon for ties, 
 running it through the spaces at the neck. 
 
 Sew three buttons on each side to a tape on the 
 underside, and make loops of the cord for fasten- 
 ings. 
 
 Child's Slippers 
 
 ATERIALS. — One skein of pink (lerm 
 pink Saxony for the border, and i yard of 
 soles are No. 7. To make the work fir: 
 
 a part of a skein of 
 
 ■ inch ribbon. The 
 
 rather fine hook. 
 
 Begin at the toe with a chain of 15 stitches. 
 Turn and single crochet in each of the first 7 
 
 Child's Slipper 
 
sts, 3 s c in ihe next st, 7 s c. For the second row 
 work a s c in each s c of the first row. The whole 
 slipper is worked in s c taking the back part of the 
 stitch each time. The widening is in the middle 
 s c of every alternate row, until there are 18 ribs 
 for the front of the slipper. Work 18 sts for the 
 side, and crochet back and forth until there are 18 
 ribs on one side. Work the other side same as the 
 first, and crochet the ends together at the back. 
 For the border fasten the Saxony at the back of 
 the slipper and work a row of treble crochet (t c). 
 one in each rib around the top. At the lower edge 
 of the t c row work a row by chaining 6 and fas- 
 tening between the ribs. Work a row of shells, 
 each of 4 d c in the t c row, then another row of 
 shells between these shells, and at the outer edge 
 ch 2 and fasten into each st of the last shell row. 
 Double the toe and fasten to form a box. Sew the 
 slipper to the sole and run the ribbon through the 
 spaces at the top, tying in a bow in front. 
 
 Hood for Child of Three Years 
 
 Materials.— Three a 
 
 ind 
 
 ne-half skeins of Germantown zephyr of 
 
 one color, and i 
 
 skein 
 
 L of a harmonizing shade for trimming. 
 
 Note.— The rows of 
 
 star 
 
 stitch only are counted in making this 
 
 hood. 
 
 
 
 Front Piece. — Chain 8r, on which work 39 stars 
 of 5 stitches. Chain 2, turn, taking up back st of 
 stars, work row of single crochet, 2 sts to I star. 
 
 Chain 3, turn, work an e.xtra star at each end of 
 row. Work 5 rows of stars, alternating with s c, 
 increasing I star at each end of each row of stars. 
 
 Back. — Chain 49, on which work 23 stars, turn, 
 crochet row of s c. Work 9 rows of stars, alternat- 
 ing with s c. lo/A rozv — Skip I star at each end. 
 Skip I star at each end of every 2 rows until you 
 have 13 stars. Then skip i star at each end of next 
 2 rows. Skip 2 stars at each end of next row. Then 
 I until you have only 3 stars left, which should be 
 22 rows. The other side is worked the same, start- 
 ing with a row of s c on back side of ist row of 
 stars, turning, crochet row of stars. 
 
 To Put Together. — The points of front go to the 
 face. Sew front and back together, joining one 
 side of back from point at each end to front for 
 five inches ; then gather fulness to remaining front. 
 The other side of back gather to fit the back of 
 head. Finish edge of hood with row of hairpin- 
 work of color and make three rosettes for front 
 and three for back by winding wool over fingers 
 and tying in centre, mi.xing the shades of wool to 
 suit. Sew rosettes in place. 
 
 Made of Germantown i 
 to 3 skeins of cream 
 
 Napoleon Hat 
 
 5-stitch 
 
 stitch. It takes 
 ontrasting color. 
 
 Hood for Child of I'hree Years 
 
 Chain 5. Skip the ch st next to the hook and 
 draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on 
 the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way, 
 making 4 sts on the hook. These sts must be quite 
 loose and the same length. Throv^r over the wool 
 and take all 4 sts off together, and finish the star 
 by ch I to hold it together. Now insert the hook in the 
 first st of the star going down the side, it being a 
 short stitch and called the eye of the star, draw the 
 wool through, then through next st of the star, it 
 being a long one, then through st where last st of 
 previous star was made ; draw wool through all 4 
 sts together, ch I. Repeat imtil you have 7 stars 
 of 4 sts each, the 4th st always being put in the 
 same place, which makes a circle. Fasten together 
 by si st, ch 3. In succeeding rows this 4 st star is 
 used to widen, all other stars having 5 sts. 
 
 2d row. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which 
 inakes 3 loops on hook, draw wool through long st 
 on top of star of preceding row, thenthrough short 
 st or eye of the star, making 5 sts on the hook, take 
 off all 5 together, ch I. Now make a 4 st star as 
 described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of 
 same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and 
 so continue for balance of row, widening every other 
 star. 
 
 3^ rov.'. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on, increas- 
 ing I star between widenings until you widen every 
 7 stars, which will be 8 rows. Crochet 8 rows with- 
 out widening, which finishes the crown. Then turn 
 and crochet the brim so the right side of brim will be 
 
 41 
 
to the wrong side of crown. Widen in first row 
 every 6 stars, increasing i star between widenings 
 for 7 rows, counting the first, when you will widen 
 every 12 stars. The ne.xt 4 rows are made without 
 widening, the first two being of white and blue 
 stars alternating, and the next two rows of the 
 white. 
 
 Napoleo.v Hat 
 
 To make the two rozvs of alternate blue and zi'hite 
 stars. — Commence row with a white star ; insert the 
 hook through the eye of the star and draw the blue 
 wool through in a loop, leaving enough of the end 
 on the wrong side so it won"t pull through, finish 
 up the blue star, the top loop of which will be white, 
 drop the blue wool at back of work and pick up 
 the white wool, insert the needle in the eye of the 
 blue star and draw the cream wool through and 
 finish the star as before. Proceed as before, always 
 dropping the wool just used behind and in such a 
 way that it will not become tangled. Start in on 
 the 2d row with a star of blue over the white, being 
 careful to keep them in this manner, one color over 
 the other. 
 
 Finish with blue picot edge as follows: Chain 4 
 s c into point where ch st started, ch 3. skip long st 
 of the star and s c into eye of it. ch 3, s c into same 
 stitch; ch 3, skip long st of the star, s c into eye. ch 3, 
 s c into same st, and repeat. 
 
 Line the wrong side of brim and crown with silk 
 with interlining of canvas. Tack in shape with 
 rosettes, which in the illustration are of staple 
 work. Ties of ribbon or an elastic, as preferred, are 
 used. 
 
 Napoleon Cap 
 
 Chain 5. Skip the ch st next to the hook and 
 draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on 
 the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way, 
 making 4 sts on the hook. These sts must be quite 
 loose and the same length. Throw over the wool and 
 take all 4 sts ofT together, and finish the star by ch i 
 to. hold it together. Now insert the hook in the 1st 
 st of the star going down the side, it being a short st 
 and called the eye of the star, draw the wool through, 
 then through next st of the star, it being a long one, 
 then through st where last st of previous star was 
 made; draw wool through all 4 sts together, ch I. 
 Repeat until you have 7 stars of 4 sts each, which 
 makes a circle. Fasten together by si st, ch 3. In 
 succeeding rows this 4 st star is used to widen, all 
 other stars having 5 sts. 
 
 2d row. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which 
 makes 3 loops on hook ; draw wool through long st 
 on top of star of preceding row, then through short 
 st or eye of star, making 5 sts on the hook, take off 
 all five together, ch I. Now make a 4 st star as 
 described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of 
 same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and 
 so continue for balance of row, widening every 
 other star. 
 
 3(/ row. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on. increas- 
 ing I star between widenings until you widen every 
 7 stars, which is 8 rows. Work 5 rows plain and 
 clip wool. 
 
 Divide crown in 4 parts, two opposite points being 
 front and back, and the other two ear points. The 
 
 Napoleon Cap 
 
last row, if widened correctly, should contain 56 
 stars, which, divided into points, would be 14 stars 
 between. Fourteen stars from where the wool was 
 clipped tie in the wool, and work row of d c around 
 crown, which commences the brim, and should be 
 made wrong side out. The entire brim is made of 
 d c. With the 2d row of which widen 2 d c at two 
 opposite points, being front and back, for 2 rows, 
 then widen 4 at same points until you have 9 rows. 
 At ear points decrease 2 d c on the last 3 rows, and 
 finish edge with picot edge or scallops. Either 
 of these two edges are very satisfactory. Single 
 crochet into top of first d c, ch 3, s c into top of same 
 d c; s c into top of next d c, ch 3, s c into top of same 
 do. Or s c into top of ist d c, ch 3, s c into top of 
 same d c, ch 3, s c into same place, ch 3, s c into same 
 place, making three loops of 3 ch sts each ; skip I d c 
 and s c into next, skip I d c and repeat the scallop. 
 After finishing the edge, turn the brim back over 
 right side of crown and fasten points at top with 
 rosette, also finishing at ear points with the same 
 rosette. 
 
 These directions are for an infant's cap. To 
 enlarge : In making the crown widen for 9 rows in- 
 stead of 8. widening every 8 stars in 9th row. In 
 finishing the crown work 6 or more plain rows in- 
 stead of 5. In making the brim divide as above and 
 widen just the same, but there will be more d c in 
 each division and two more rows must be worked 
 before putting on picot edge. 
 
 Child's Cap and Bib with Crochet 
 Trimmings 
 
 The cut shows a cap made of a piece of linen 
 eighteen inches long and six inches vv'ide. The 
 
 crochet trimming is all made and sewed on with the 
 sewing-machine close to the edge of the rings, and 
 around each stitching is placed a border of French 
 knots with mercerized cotton. 
 
 For the Front. — Sew twenty rings on the eigh- 
 teen-inch edge ; place the rings half way over the 
 edge and sew half way around the rings. Four and a 
 half inches back place another row of twenty rings, 
 
 Child's Cap 
 
 Child's Bib 
 
 and sew this on both sides. Between these two rows 
 of trimming place the five crochet motifs at regu- 
 lar intervals ; on the ends place four or five rings 
 to fill up between the rows. 
 
 Make all the French knots and do the cutting out 
 before gathering the crown. Gather it around a 
 motif and sew the linen edges together as far as the 
 ring trimming. It is by far the nicest to gather 
 it on the ruffler and get it just the right size to fit 
 under the motif. It should have the rings half way 
 over the edge of the gathers. 
 
 A pretty way to trim this cap is to make a big 
 bow of three-inch ribbon and place it in the nape of 
 the neck, and run long ends through the rings for 
 tie-strings. Ruffle narrow lace and sew it on the 
 edge of the trimming all around the cap. Launder 
 on the wrong side on very soft wool blanket. 
 
 Det.\il of Crochet Motif used on C.\p. — Wind 
 mercerized cotton ten times over the forefinger, slip 
 off, work 6 d c in the ring; * wind another ring 
 same size close to last st, fill this ring full of d c 
 and join neatly with si st, six more d c on the first 
 ring; repeat from * until you have six rings around 
 the centre ring, the last ring join to the first and 
 finish on the wrong side. The other rings are always 
 joined to the preceding at points where they touch. 
 It takes six of these motifs for the cap. The other 
 
rings are wound the same and filled half, another 
 wound and filled half, and so on. then turned and 
 remainder filled. 
 
 The Serviceable Bib is cut from very heavy 
 white vesting. Around the edge it is hemmed 
 on the machine and around the neck it is turned 
 under half an inch (it must be snipped nearly half 
 an inch rather close together before it can be 
 turned.) Over it run three times with the sewing- 
 machine one-eighth of an inch apart. 
 
 Sew on the ring trimming with the machine, 
 close to the edge of the rings. Border the edge of 
 trimming and around the neck with French knots 
 made with mercerized cotton. Close with button 
 and buttonhole or with tape. 
 
 Detail of Ri.n'g Trimming. — Wind mercerized 
 cotton ten times over forefinger and crochet needle, 
 slip off, ch 3, work * 9 d c in the ring. For picot. 
 ch 5 and fasten back in top of last d c. Now fill 
 this tiny ring with 8 s c, work 9 more d c in ring ; 
 this fills it half full. Wind another ring close to 
 last St, and repeat from * until long enough, then 
 work back and fill remainder of rings without mak- 
 ing the picots. 
 
 Baby's Carriage Afghan 
 
 ITERIALS.— Four ounces white and 
 a long double crochet-hook, a sh 
 size. Fourtpen yards of narrov 
 colored wool. In afghan stitch. 
 
 :cs of colored Saxo 
 
 chet-hook of the s; 
 
 ribbon to match 
 
 Make a ch of loi sts with both wools. With the 
 white raise 100 loops: turn the work, and with the 
 colored wool draw through 2 loops at a time till 
 all have been worked off. Break off the wool and 
 recommence at the beginnin.g. 
 
 Work y2 rows in this manner, always working in 
 the same direction. 
 
 Darn in the loose ends -. , - .- - 
 
 of wool with a needle. .,.'•,..,....!,■..-. 
 
 This completes the centre. ,; ;;;;: r ;.'".'':: '. ; '. 
 
 For the Bordcy.—\i(M- •.•;:;::'.': : ; - "_ ; - ■ 
 
 ing the right side of ,;'.',-- '...'. , 
 
 the work towards you, l ,'.','.',', l',\''.',\l",\' 
 
 with the white wool I'.Vi'.W'.l'.WW^',', 
 
 and short hook wurk '.'.'',',','.'.'.''.'..',"''. 
 
 in double stitch thus: i ,'',,'-'.'.' '^' ''.'''''' ■ 
 
 d c in the ist st ; * put ;'.".'--...'.;,;: 
 
 the hook into the same MJ^ii^.'^^' •'."-:; 
 
 Iraw the wool ^^-^ ', ^ I'.'.l '. ',', ', .'.','. 
 
 put the hook '1 ". ''.''.',.' yy. ',,' t ' 
 
 next St and ': S :'.'>:: :\z: ' ^ t 
 
 wool through ; ' -' -'.-' •' ' / .' ; J ' ; .' C ; 
 11 be 3 loops 
 
 w o o 1 _" '.' . 
 
 st and c 
 
 through. 
 
 into the 
 
 draw the 
 
 there wi 
 
 on the 
 
 over and 
 
 wool through a 1 
 
 loops at once. 
 
 from *. \\'ork 
 
 more rows of d 
 
 hook : 
 
 raw the 
 
 all the 
 
 Re|)eat 
 
 three 
 
 ■:*-''tj'"il t- 
 
 For the Scallof's. — Upon the wrong side make I 
 d c in the ist st : * i ch, 5 long trebles, miss 2 sts, I 
 d c into the 3d st and repeat from *. 
 
 Run three rows of ribbon through the holes 
 formed by the double stitches, and make four 
 bunches of loops at the corners. 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 This pretty sack requires six skeins of white Shet- 
 land floss. Yoke in Russian crochet, skirt in bean 
 stitch. 
 
 Chain 93. 
 
 1st row. — Miss i, 
 s c in next 2, 3 s c 
 
 I s c in next, ch I, miss I, * 2 
 c in next, 2 s c in next 2, miss 2 ; 
 repeat from * to end of row, ending with ch I, miss 
 I, I s c. Turn. 
 
 2d row. — Chain I, i s c in back loop of st, ch I, * 
 miss 2, s c in next, 2 in next, 3 in next, 2 in next, I 
 in next: repeat from * ending with ch i, miss 2, I 
 s c. Continue working until there are 12 rows, 
 widening in each row by making 3 s c in centre of 
 each point, and in every alternate row, 2 s c in st 
 each side of point. 
 
 Skirt. — ij;th row. — Work across in bean st. 
 
 To }uakc bean stitch. — * Miss 2 sts. insert hook in 
 next, draw wool through, wool over, draw another 
 loop through same st, over, another loop through 
 same st, over, and draw through all 6 loops, ch I. 
 Repeat from *, turn. In making following rows, 
 work last bean, at end of each row, in the two end 
 sts of bean of previous row. 
 
 14th row. — Bean st as in 13th row, except miss 
 only I st around 2 points, ch 20. miss 2 points, beans 
 
 
 
 ^^.y^ 
 
 r.\ 
 
 -»V: 
 
 ^.ii^^^i^ 
 
 c. 
 
 Section of Baby's Carriage Afghan 
 44 
 
Baby's Sack 
 
 across 5 points ch 20, miss 2 points, beans across 2 
 points, turn. 
 
 l^th row. — When working beans across chains 
 miss 2 sts between beans. 
 
 Work 27 rows, always missing the ist space be- 
 tween beans. Now with pink crochet a row oi beans 
 down fronts and around bottom, working 3 beans in 
 I at corners ; turn. 
 
 With white, work 3 rows of bean st on fronts and 
 bottom, always working 3 beans 
 in one at corners. With white, 3 
 c in st, ch 3, miss I, s c in next, 
 all around. 
 
 Around Neck. — ist roiv. — 
 Single crochet in point, ch 4, s c 
 in next point ; repeat around. 
 
 3d roiv. — Two s c in 2 sts, 3 s c 
 in next, * 4 s c in next 4 sts, 3 s c 
 in next ; repeat. 
 
 j(f rozv. — A s c in each st, 
 working 3 s c in i at each point. 
 
 4th row. — With pink work 
 around in bean st, missing 2 sts 
 between beans, though always 
 working a bean in point. 
 
 5th row. — With white work 
 round in bean st and loops as 
 around skirt. 
 
 For Sleeve. — Work 25 rounds of bean st, turn- 
 mg at end of each round and keeping sleeve closed. 
 
 Treble crochet in bean, * ch i, tr c in next bean, * 
 repeat; turn. Another round of bean st, then a 
 round of pink, one round white, then loops as be- 
 fore. Run ribbon around neck and wrists. 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 around the neck it is worked 
 from the bottom of the yoke 
 across the shoulders ; each 
 shoulder being worked in a 
 point. This is a simpler way 
 of making a yoke than the old 
 way, for in this there are no 
 increases to make. 
 
 Begin the yoke with 60 loose 
 ch, which extend across the 
 shoulder, 3 ch extra to turn. 
 In the 4th ch make this new 
 and original rib stitch: * wool 
 over hook, draw up a loop 1-2 
 inch long, wool over hook, 
 draw up another loop same 
 size, wool over hook, draw up 
 another loop same size, wool 
 over hook, draw up another loop same size, now wool 
 over and draw through all but the last loop on the 
 hook, wool over and draw through the two loops 
 and pull up the wool tight, now 1 ch. This is one 
 st and is repeated from * in every second ch, mak- 
 ing 30 sts in the row. 
 
 2d roiv — Three ch to turn. The sts are made the 
 same as in first row, but are placed differently. 
 In place of going in a ch you make the loops around 
 
 -ERIALS 
 
 -—Six 
 
 skei 
 
 ns 
 
 f Sax( 
 
 any > 
 
 vhich 
 
 is large 
 
 ; en 
 
 ough 
 
 for a 
 
 child 
 
 )lder. 
 
 A bon 
 
 :e c 
 
 rochet-hook 
 
 that 
 
 IS the 
 
 skirt 1! 
 
 i m: 
 
 ide n 
 
 iiostly 
 
 in Re 
 
 In this sack the yoke extends below the arm- 
 holes, and in place of being worked back and forth 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 the top of each st; this is done by inserting the 
 hook on the right side of st and bringing it out on 
 left side of st, and bring the loops through this 
 place; this makes the heavy rib. Two rows make 
 one rib and each row must have 30 sts. Repeat 
 the 2d row until you have three full ribs for the 
 shoulder. 
 
 Now for back of neck work 14 sts, one rib and 
 a half, add 32 ch loosely for right front, three extra 
 to turn, work 30 sts again until there are 8 whole 
 ribs on the back yoke. Break wool and fasten at the 
 neck. 
 
 To work the fronts, make 14 sts, 2 ribs for each 
 
^Uv 
 
 front. For the under-arin, work 4 sts in length two 
 rows or one rib at either the front or back yoke, 
 and join it to make the armhole. To make the 
 extension shoulders, begin 2 sts away from the 
 short rib and work back and forth, missing two 
 sts at tlie start and the end of each row until to a 
 point. A little over two ribs brings it to the point. 
 
 For the skirt, start with right side toward you, 
 the side that counts whole ribs. Always begin row 
 with 3 ch, 2 d c in each row, working the d c around 
 the st to give a good strong body, 
 in the centre of each rib make 
 a Rose Treble Shell of 4 sts. * 
 Work this stitch by winding iS 
 times over hook, insert in rib, 
 ,bring wool through, wool over, 
 and draw through 2 loops, wool 
 over and draw through 2 loops, 
 wool over and draw through the 
 rest of the coil, wool over and 
 draw through i loop and pull up 
 wool tight to curl the coil. Re- 
 peat the detail from * for each 
 stitch in shell. This row has 20 
 shells with 4 doubles between 
 each shell. 
 
 2d rou- — Chain 3, d c in each d 
 c, and in shells work ch 2. a d c in centre of shell, 
 ch 2, a d c in same place, ch 2, then d c in d c 
 again. 
 
 T,d roll' — Same as first, only there is a different 
 foundation now. The d c are made in the d c and 
 the shells in the centre of 2 chain in centre of shell. 
 
 Alternate the 2d and 3d rows until there are 7 
 shell rows; but in the 4th shell row use five Rose 
 Treble, in the 3th the same, in the 6tli use 6, and 
 in the 7th use 7. and in this last use s c over the 
 d c in place of d c. 
 
 The sleeves are made like the skirt. Begin on 
 the under arm. manage to work around so you 
 get six shells in the row and so you get a shell 
 on the point of shoulder. Work the collar and 
 front scallops to correspond. 
 
 yoke is reached, then ch 15, and fasten across to 
 back point of yoke for arm-hole. This completes 
 yoke. 
 
 Skirt. — i.f/ row — Chain 3, d c in second st of 
 yoke, then d c across this into first st. This makes 
 a cross. Work 11 crosses across each front, 8 
 under arm, 20 across back. 
 
 2d ro'd! — Repeat ist row, working crosses directly 
 above those of last row. 
 
 2,d row — Widen 3 crosses on front, 5 on back. 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 ins Saxony wool an'l i 
 ■spond; J yards ril.ljon 
 
 spool knitting silk, 
 I inch wide. 
 
 Yoke. — Chain 88, ch i, turn, s c in each one of 
 the 88 ch. 
 
 2d rozv — Chain I, s c in first 21 sts, taking up 
 back thread of st to form rib. Widen on 22d and 
 25th sts. Have 40 sts across back. Also widen on 
 22d and 25th sts from other side. Widen every 
 row, having first 4, then 6, 8, etc., across shoulders. 
 Be careful to keep 22 in fronts. Work 16 rows. 
 
 17//1 roiv — Repeat l6th row until first point of 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 4//j roiv — Repeat 2d row. 
 
 5//; rozv — Widen 4 on fronts, 6 on back, 
 
 6th rozv — No widening. 
 
 yth rozv — Widen 7 on fronts, 14 on back. 
 
 8//( rozv — Widen 7 on fronts, 18 on back. 
 
 Next 4 rows, no widening. Break wool. 
 
 Fasten wool on right corner of neck, ch 3, d c in 
 3d st of neck, ch l, long crochet in next 3d St., etc., 
 for beading. When left side of neck is reached, 
 work shells of 5 d c all around sack ; at corners of 
 skirt, work shells of 10 d c. 
 
 Sleeves. — Join at front point of yoke, work 
 3 crosses, going into every st once, then 17, going 
 into every st twice, then 6 like first 3, one cross 
 above another under arm. 
 
 Work 17 rows, counting the first, one cross 
 above the other, then break wool. 
 
 iSth rozv — On this row leave off 4 crosses on each 
 side of seam. 
 
 19//; rozv — On this row leave off 3 at each end of 
 1 8th row. 
 
 20//; rozv — On this row leave off 3 on each end 
 of 19th row. 
 
 21st rozv — Crosses all around. 
 
 22d rozv — One cross above another for first 3, 
 then one above two for every other one, except 
 last 3 which are like first 3. 
 
 For the beading work treble crochet between each 
 space of 22d row. 
 
 24.'/; rozv — Crosses all around, I for each tr of 
 23d row. 
 
2$th row — Repeat 24th row. 
 
 26th row — Shells of 5 d c all around. 
 
 This completes the wool part. 
 
 Now with silk, and beginning at neck, ch 4, s c 
 between two sts of shell, ch 4, s c again, etc., around 
 sack. Without clipping the silk, pass to first rib 
 of yoke, s c in top of st. ch 2, s c in next. When 
 the end is reached, turn, and edge next rib the same 
 way. All the ribs can be edged without breaking 
 the silk. Finish the shells on the sleeves the same 
 as those around the sack. Run ribbon through 
 heading on sleeves, and tie in bow at back. Also 
 run ribbon through beading at neck. This little 
 garment will fit a baby under one year old. For 
 a child over one year, ch 100 at beginning, then 
 have 25 sts on each front, and 46 on back, with 2 
 on each shoulder. 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 Materials. — Three skeins of blue and i of pink two-fold Saxony, 
 a fine bone hook, and 4 yards of No. ^ pink ribljon to match 
 the pink Saxony. 
 
 Begin at the neck with a chain of 115 sts. Turn, 
 and in the 3d st from the hook work a s c and s c 
 in each of next 2 ch, 3 s c in next st, * s c in next 7 
 sts, 3 s c in next, and repeat from * 14 times, 330. 
 
 For next row. — Chain 3, turn, s c in each of the 
 first 4 s c, * 3 s c in next, 4 s c, skip I s c. 4 s c. and 
 repeat from * across the row. Each succeeding row 
 of the yoke is worked the same as the 2d row, the 
 '3 s c for widening the point being put in the same 
 place in each row. but omit skipping i s c between 
 points. The yoke has 16 points and is 9 ridges or 18 
 rows deep. 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 The body and sleeves of the sack are formed of 
 rows of d c and stack stitch — one of d c and two 
 of stack stitch, as seen in the illustration. Begin 
 the body of the sack at the left corner of the yoke, 
 under the points in the 3d ridge, and work a d c 
 in each stitch, working straight across the point 
 and not following the ridge, the points thus lap- 
 ping over the body of the sack. For the row 
 of stack stitch, turn, ch 3, skip 2 d c and work 
 d c in each of the next 3 d c, then, without 
 turning the hook, insert it in the first skipped d c, 
 and work d c in each of the 2 d c that were 
 skipped. This forms i stack. It will be seen that 
 the last 2 d c cross over the first 3 d c. Repeat 
 the stack 8 times, then turn, ch 3, and make a stack 
 over a stack back to front edge. Work another 
 row of d c and 2 rows of stacks, then break the 
 wool. Skip 30 d c for the left sleeve, fasten wool 
 and work stacks across the back (13 stacks), turn 
 and make another stack row, then a row of d c, 
 and two more stack rows, same as the front. Break 
 wool, skip 30 d c for the right sleeve and work the 
 right front same as the left front. Turn, ch 3, 
 d c in each st of front, ch 4 under the arm, d c 
 across the back, ch 4 under arm, d c across the left 
 front. Alternate the 2 rows of stacks and i of d c 
 until the sack has 3 more double rows of stacks 
 and 2 of d c. 
 
 Take up d c around the armhole for the sleeve 
 and work same as for the body of the sack until 
 4 rows of d c and 4 double rows of stacks are 
 worked. Then work a row of d c with I ch between 
 through which to run the ribbon. Join the pink wool 
 and make a row of bean st. To work bean stitch 
 proceed as follows : Take up a 
 st on the hook, wool over and 
 take another st in the same 
 place, wool over and take an- 
 other in the same place, thus 
 making 6 sts on the hook, and 
 draw each out about 1-2 inch 
 long, take a st through the 6 
 sts and fasten with a s c. This 
 makes one bean. Work I bean 
 in each of I ch. Join the blue 
 and work the cut¥ of s c for 
 8 rows, then a row of holes 
 for the ribbon. Work the 
 second sleeve same as the 
 first. 
 
 Join the wool to the upper 
 corner of the left front and 
 work a row of d c with 2 ch 
 lietween all around the sack. 
 Fasten the pink at the lower 
 left corner and make a row 
 of bean stitch across the 
 
 47 
 
bottom, I bean in each 2 ch, with 2 ch between. 
 With the bhie work a shell of (2 d c, I ch, 2 d c) 
 in each of the 2 ch of pink row. Work another 
 row same as this one, shell in a shell. For the 3d 
 row of the bor- 
 der, work shell 
 of 8 d c in the 
 first shell be- 
 neath, j o i n 
 with s c in the 
 next shell, and 
 repeat a c ro s s 
 the row. Work 
 a row of shells 
 across the neck. 
 
 Finish the 
 edges of the 
 sack, the sleeves 
 and the points 
 of the yoke with 
 a row of picots 
 worked of the 
 pink. Across 
 the bottom let 
 the pink chains 
 extend up be- 
 tween the scal- 
 lops, as seen in 
 the illustration. 
 
 The work 
 must be loosely done to make this stitch elTective. 
 Run the ribbon through the spaces, with bows on 
 the sleeves, and ends to tie at the neck. 
 
 end and catch in centre of 1st cluster with s c and 
 ch 3 ; this will keep front edges even. !Make sack 
 19 rows deep. 
 
 Sleeves. — Commence one stitch from centre of 
 
 Baby's Sack 
 
 ■fold Saxony, 3 
 
 Materials. One skein of pink or blue 
 
 skeins of white two-fold S.lxony. J'j yards ol narrow riDDon 
 to matcll colored wool, lart of a spool of crochet silk to 
 match colored wool. 
 
 Chain 136. Work one row of single crochet on 
 the ch, turn. 
 
 2d nnv — Thirty-si.K s c, lakir.g up back of stitch 
 to form rib, work 2 sts in 37th and 40th sts, work 
 to within 40 sts of end, increase one in 40th st and 
 37th st from end, turn. 
 
 Always remember to ch i at entl of each row 
 in order to keep edge straight. Work back and 
 forth in s c, increasing one in each of the widening 
 points to form shoulder. Work 9 ribs or 18 rows. 
 With white wool work 11 clusters of 4 double 
 crochet across front, ch 3 inches, work 18 clusters 
 of 4 d c across back, ch 3 inches, w'ork 11 clusters 
 of 4 d c across other front, turn, ch 1, catch into 
 centre of ist cluster with s c, ch 3. \vork 3 d c in 
 same st, work 4 d c in centre of each cluster across 
 front, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch, work across 
 back, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch, work across 
 front, turn. Always remember to ch i at each 
 
 Baby's .Sack 
 
 shoulder and work 5 clusters of 4 d c across first 
 half of shoulder, work 7 clusters of 4 d c under 
 arm, work 5 clusters of 4 d c across other half of 
 shoulder, turn, work across sleeve back and forth 
 for 15 rows. 
 
 With color, conunence at corner of right front, 
 ch 4, work d c in 3d st, ch 2 and work d c in every 
 3d St. This will form a row of holes for running 
 the ribbon through. Work shell of 6 d c all around 
 sack and sleeves. Finish with crochet silk to match 
 colored wool, as follows: Chain 2 and with s c 
 catch into every stitch of shell. To form revers, 
 turn o\cr fronts of sack tlie width of two clusters 
 and sew down the length of sack. Turn over two 
 clusters at bottom of sleeves and slope to one at 
 top. Lace sleeves together with narrow ribbon, 
 and make small bows at top and bottom of sleeves. 
 
 Directions for Laundering 
 
 The most important point is that garments cro- 
 clieted with wool should never be rubbed with soap, 
 and that the water used is not so hot but that the 
 hand can be held in it with comfort. Dip the gar- 
 ment in the warm suds, squeeze gently with the 
 hands and rinse carefully in clean, warm water. 
 Roiling water, strong, dry soaps and powders shrink 
 and ruin the fibre of the wool and spoil the color. 
 
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
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 The Most 
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 For Women 
 
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 stories, many others 
 filled with miscellane- 
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 Yiie—" Fancy. Work" 
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 — with just enough 
 clever, wholesome fic- 
 tion added to give 
 zest. That magazine is 
 
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