Class 
 
 fllXl 
 
 BookJy^Jii- 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 
 
1885- 
 
 \^Price^ SO Cents. 
 
 I^Le^RS 
 
 JIS IT IS. 
 
 (Ijisl^ a GOf^I^CGS GU1D€ 5^0 ClLLPLaCCS OP II25GR;€SS 
 
 
 W. W. WILLIAMS. 
 CLEVELAND, 
 
 
 
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 From the New England States and the East, this route has advan- 
 tages possessed by no other, v/hich will be appreciated by those who 
 desire to make the trip as far as possible through the Southern States, 
 instead of first making a long trip w^estward through familiar territory 
 before making the angle south. From Philadelphia the route is 
 through almost the finest and richest agricultural region in America, 
 and which continues through the Cumberland Valley to Hagerstown, 
 Md., and the Potomac, from whence the rich Shenandoah Valley be- 
 gins, and continues to afford a constant succession of beautiful views 
 and surprises during a daylight ride from 8:io A. M. to 6 P. M, when 
 Roanoke, Va., is reached. During the entire day the Blue Ridge is 
 near and then far, on the left, while the North Mountains loom up 
 away to the right, with laps of undulations between richly covered 
 with pretty scenes in agriculture, constantly changing. This is all fa- 
 miliar ground to Sheridan's old troops. "Antieiam," "Front Royal," 
 and Waynesburg are all in sight from the cars, and the well-kept lime- 
 stone pikes will recall many a stormy scene of the past, while the 
 Natural Bridge and Luray caverns may tempt a rest. 
 
 From Roanoke the same rich agricultural scenes continue through 
 Virginia to Bristol, when the descent progresses with the same Blue 
 Ridge of the AUeghenies on the left and the Cumberland Mountains 
 on the right, 30 to 80 miles apart, when the familiar tramping ground 
 of Burnside's troops appears at Blountville, Greenville, Blue Springs, 
 Strawberry Plains, Knoxville, Fort Saunders, Loudon and Chatten- 
 ooga, with a continuation of charming scenes such as the vallies of the 
 Holstein, Wautaga, Clinch, Sweetwater and Tennessee rivers afford. 
 The time occupied in traversing the whole distance from Harrisbnrg, 
 Pa., to Cleveland, Tennessee, is relieved from monotony by reason of 
 these facts, and no poor country is reached until within a few miles 
 from Cleveland, Tennesse, when the foot-hills begin, and a hundred 
 miles or so of poor scenery through a patch of Northern Georgia and 
 Alabama, is experienced, when pine forests follow, which continue 
 until Mobile and the gulf are reached. Here the invigorating salt 
 air and broad waters of Pascagoula Bay bring new sensations, to- 
 gether with the stir of suburban resorts as New Orleans is approached. 
 By this route all monotonous scenes of worn out lands abounding in 
 scrub pine and oak, are avoided, and a fair, typical picture of a rich 
 portion of the South is presented. Double daily trains with Pullman 
 sleepers. 
 
 A. POPE, Gen. Pass, and T'kt. Agt., 
 H. V. TOMPKINS, ROANOKE, VA. 
 
 Eastern Pass. Agt. 303 Broadway, N. Y. 
 B. W. WRENN, Gen'l Pass. Agt., 
 
 East Tenn., Va. & Ga. R. R., 
 
 Knoxville, Tennessee. 
 
THE CHAMBERLIH CARTRIDGE COMPANY, 
 
 76 Superior Street, CLEVELiAND, OHIO. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 FIXED AMUNITION 
 
 BreecWoading Shot Suns. 
 
 LOADED B Y MACHINER Y. 
 
 F. L. 
 
 Cliamljerlin's Shell LoadingiMachine. Capacity, 1,500 Shells per Hour. 
 
POWER TRAHSMISSinw 
 
 PULLEYS, 
 GEARS, 
 SHAFTING, 
 HANGERS, 
 
 ETC. 
 
 Machine Molded Pulleys and Gears a Specialty. 
 
 Olevela^nd., 
 
 01:Lio. 
 
 j@^rWrite for Gear and Price List. Estimates furnished. 
 
 gan 
 
 M 
 
 P 
 
 ARAFFINE 
 
 WAX 
 
 CANDLES. 
 
 Cleveland, Ohio, 
 Manufacturers of COLD PRESSED 
 
 PARAFFfflE OIL 
 
 Refined Paraffine Wax, Paragon Axle Grease, and a full line of Railway Machinery- 
 Signal and Miners' Oils. 
 
 Boston Office, 32 Olive Street, 
 
 New York Office, 143 Front St., New York. 
 
[THE FLORIDA SHORT LINE, 
 
 East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia R. R. 
 
 ABSOI JTELY the shortest OF ALL ROUTES BETWEEN 
 
 ^OR.'-H LATEST AND FLORIDA. 
 
 The Reliable Through Car Route. 
 
 The Permanently Established Success. 
 
 tHE SHORTEST OF ALL SHORT ROUTES. 
 
 Presenting for the Season of 1884-5 Increased Attractions and Improved Facilities. 
 
 Miles the SHORTEST between CINCIN- 
 
 2 < NATI and JACKSONVILLE. 2 < 
 
 : ^ Miles the SHORTEST Between CHATTA- "^ 
 
 1 7. NOOGA and FLORIDA, via JESUR 1 < 
 
 i ^ Miles the SHORTEST Between ATLANTA ^ 
 
 lis and FLORIDA, via JESUP. 1 1 S 
 
 Commencing- Nov. i, a Line of 
 Eleg-ant ZDraTTT-ing- I^oono. Sleeping- Oars 
 
 iWILL BR RUN BETWEEN 
 (jin(^innATi ano jAijKsonviLLG 
 
 iWithout Change over the Queen & Crescent Route and 
 E. T., V. & G. R. R. 
 
 Only Line Running through Passenger Coaches between Chattanooga 
 and Jacksonville, Fla., Without Change and without Extra Fares, via 
 
 DALTON, ROME, ATLANTA, MACON, EASTMAN & JESUP. 
 
 The vast tide of Passengers in constant movement between the 
 i'NORTHWEST and FLORIDA, via JESUP, is Immutable Evidence 
 lof the superior service performed by the Short Line. 
 j Our PERFECTED ROADWAY and EXCELLENT EQUIPMENT 
 [are not surpassed by any road in the South. Tourist Tickets on sale 
 [during the season. 
 
 I Closely connecting also at Atlanta with W. & A R. R. trains, and 
 with R. & D. R. R. trains. 
 
 For Rates, Tickets or other information by The Florida Short Line, 
 apply to any Coupon Ticket Agent in the United States or Canada. 
 
 6". H. HARDWICK, J. J. GRIFFIN, 
 
 Trav. Pass. Ag't, P. O. Box 566, Chicago, HI. A. G. P. A,, Atlanta, Ga. 
 
 B. W. WRENN, 
 
 Gen'l Pass'r and Ticket Agent, Knoxville, Tenn. 
 
Selected I^ands for Sale 
 
 IN THE STATES OF TENNESSEE, WESTERV NORTH 
 
 CAROLINA, GEORGL\, ALABAMA AND 
 
 NORTHERN MISSISSIPPI 
 
 On the First day of June, 1885, the subscriber will open offices in Huntsville, Ala., 
 Atlanta, Ga., and Knoxville, Tenn., for the sale of lands lying along and contiguous 
 to the East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia Railroad system. To this end, thorough 
 and systematic examinations have been and are being made of the different classes of 
 property in the market, which will be brought before the special wants of applicants 
 throughout the North. 
 
 The E. T. Va. & Ga. system courses through an empire of itself, so different and 
 varied are the soils and climate along its lines. East Tennessee offers the vallies of the 
 Holstein, Clinch, French Broad, Watauga, Nolichucky and Pigeon rivers where beauti- 
 ful rolling plantations, with limestone sub-soil abound, rich in wheat, rich in clover, rich 
 in all that is necessary to the cultivated taste of a cultivated agriculturist, while westward 
 are presented the vallies of the Hiwassee, Sweetwater and Tennessee, all at prices less 
 than half what the same would cost in the Shenandoah Valley, with no handsomer loca- 
 tions, nor better soil. Up the French Broad are rich yielding tobacco lands where one 
 acre's yield will buy five acres of land ; away to the west in Northern and Central Geor- 
 gia, are all varieties of cotton soil, level bottoms and rolling uplands ; in Middle Ala- 
 bama the rich cotton lands of the "Black Belt" west of Selma, and North, the rich soils of 
 the Valley of the Tennessee River, and further west, the prairie region of Mississippi, 
 underlaid with rotten limestone as well as blue hmestone. 
 
 There are also large tracts of timber lands easy of access, together with mineral de- 
 posits such as zinc, barytes, corundum, lithographic stone, kaolin, ochres, umbers and 
 mica, leaving out coal and iron which is nearly everywhere, and the marbles of Tennes- 
 see, whose quarries are having all they can do. The time to visit this portion of the 
 South is during the summer and not in the winter. It lies in a temperate climate and 
 summer resorts are as abundant as in the North. 
 Correspondence for particulars solicited. 
 
 W. E. PEDRICK. . 
 
NEIV ORLEANS 
 
 AS IT IS. 
 
 ^. 
 
 WITH A CORRECT GUIDE TO ALL PLACES OF INTEREST. 
 
 FEB_ 2 1805,^ J 
 
 CLEVELAND : 
 WILLIAM W. WILLIAMS. 
 
Copyright, 1885, 
 Bv W. E. PEDRICK. 
 
• * * So2is la tojmelle verte 
 La jeune feni^ne alertky 
 Qu' tin bras fort enlacaity 
 Se balancait — 
 
 Sa bouche de camee 
 Moiitrant demi-paniee 
 A deux grands yeux ardents 
 Ses belles dents, 
 
 Chantait iin air Creole 
 Sans rime ni parole, 
 Pensif, mats exalte 
 De vohiptie ! 
 
 Et la grande har7no7iie 
 De la brise benie 
 Mnrmnrait tont autour 
 
 Un chant d amour ! " 
 
Billings, Taylor & 60., 
 
 INCORPORATED. 
 
 Hew York City and Cleyeland, Ohio, 
 
 MAKERS OF 
 
 Wwj OQ)lQ^wmfWmwmimMmm & ^mpmmm^ 
 
 Coach and Car Colors in Oil or Japan, 
 
 PURE PREPARED PAIHTS 
 
 of the highest quality, ready for immediate use and apphcation. 
 Send for catalogue showing the latest artistic shades. 
 
 SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF THE 
 
 Geneva Rubber Enamel Top Dressing. 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 "The captain told father, when we went to engage passage, that 
 New Orleans was on high land," said the younger daughter with a 
 tremor in the voice, and ignoring the remonstrative touch of her sister. 
 " On high land ? " said the captain, turning from the pilot: "Well, 
 so it is— higher than the swamp, but not higher than the river," and 
 he checked a broadening smile. — Grandissimex. 
 
 New Orleans, like Niagara, cannot be seen in 
 an hour. Mardi Gras excursionists come every 
 year by thousands, spend a day or two, and dc: 
 part with a very superficial knowledge of the con- 
 glomerate freaks, the strange mixtures in the 
 make up of this, the most cosmopolitan city in 
 our land. 
 
 Although the French tongue is dominant — the 
 Spanish occupation changing it no more than 
 Prussia changed Alsace, yet its various individu- 
 alities have been religiously preserved, and Amer- 
 icanisms have failed to crowd them out. 
 
 Bienville, Carondelet, O'Reilly and the African, 
 have each maintained a foothold, and preserve it 
 to this hour when the African claims that where 
 a hand for a shovel is needed in municipal employ- 
 ment, or a candidate for office to dispense rnunici- 
 
4 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 pal patronage, the O'Reilly's are still in full force, 
 as in the city of New York. 
 
 HISTORY. 
 
 In ninety-one years Louisiana changed rulers 
 six times: From Louis XIV, in 1712, to the com- 
 mercial dominion of Anthony Crozat. In 1717 
 from Crozat to the Compagnie d' Occident — 
 George Law's great Mississippi bubble company, 
 so copiously illustrated by old prints. In 1731 it 
 was handed back to France; in 1762 from France 
 to Spain; in 1801 again to France, and in 1803 to 
 the United States. 
 
 In May, 1539, De Soto, with a fleet and thirteen 
 hundred and fifty men, appeared off the Florida 
 coast. After three years of wearisome and peril- 
 ous journeys by land and rivers, through the in- 
 terior, his body was buried beneath the waters of 
 the Mississippi, and his followers reduced to three 
 hundred men. They were pursued by the Indians 
 to the coast, from whence they sailed to Panuco. 
 
 No further attempts were made to penetrate 
 this region by foreigners until July, 1673, when 
 Father Marquette came down the Mississippi to 
 the mouth of the Arkansas, and then returned to 
 Canada. 
 
 In 1682 La Salle appeared at the mouth of the 
 Mississippi. He soon after went back to France, 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 5 
 
 and two years later returned, to be murdered by 
 his companions while exploring in Texas. 
 
 Under the orders of Louis XIV, King of France, 
 M. D' Iberville sailed October 24, 1698, from 
 Brest, in command of an expedition to establish a 
 colony in Louisiana. In January, 1699, he arrived 
 off the Florida coast, and soon after established 
 himself on the shores of the Bay of Biloxi — so 
 named from the Biloxis, an Indian tribe of that 
 locality. It is eight miles east from New Orleans, 
 four miles east from Beauvoir, where ex-president 
 Jefferson Davis now resides, and a favorite place 
 of resort. In determining his location, Iberville 
 landed upon Cat Island, about four miles from the 
 coast, where he found swarms of animals which 
 were a cross between a cat and a fox, and there- 
 fore gave it the name. 
 
 Souville was subsequently made governor of 
 the Province and was succeeded by Bienville, who 
 was removed in 17 10 and in 17 18 reappointed. 
 He resolved to change the location of his seat of 
 government, and sailed across Lake Ponchartrain, 
 entered Bayou St. John — giving it the name — and 
 landed at or near the spot now known as Bayou 
 Bridge, near the Jockey Club House. 
 
 In the following year, 17 19, the colonists were 
 very much discouraged by their first flood, the 
 Mississippi overflowing the town site and tempor- 
 
6 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 arily causing its desertion. In 1722 however, the 
 government offices were removed from Biloxi to 
 New Orleans. 
 
 In 1723 the town had about a hundred dwellings, 
 and from appearances in a portion of the old 
 French quarter, not a few of them still remain. 
 It Avas laid out in sixty-six squares of three 
 hundred feet each (it now numbers over three 
 thousand squares). It had a frontage on the river 
 of eleven squares and six squares deep. The lots 
 were sixty feet front and from one hundred and 
 twenty to one hundred and fifty feet deep. The 
 name of the city was given it in honor of the 
 Duke of Orleans, Regent of France, and many of 
 its streets after prominent noblemen of France, as 
 Chartres Street, the Duke of Chartres; Conti, 
 Prince of Conti; Conde, Prince of Conde; Tou- 
 louse, Count of Toulouse; Bourbon, Duke of 
 Bourbon. In naming the various localities of the 
 vicinity, many of Louis the XIV.'s notables were 
 remembered. Bay St. Louis, Iberville named in 
 honor of Louis IX. of France; Lake Ponchartrain, 
 whose northern shores are under the protection of 
 St. Tammany Parish, Count Ponchartrain, Louis 
 XIV.'s minister ; Lake Maurepas,from Count Mau- 
 repas, grandson of Ponchartrain ; Louisiana from 
 the King. In streets the Spanish Sovereign was 
 remembered in naming St. Charles, and in later 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 7 
 
 times Magazine from Rue de Magazin, where 
 stood a large house or magazine for storing 
 tobacco, and where large tobacco houses are now 
 seen. Behind Magazine was a campo de negroes 
 where cargoes of Guinea slaves were kept, and the 
 street which was cut through became Camp street. 
 
 Juiien Poydras, who wrote an epic poem on the 
 achievment of Galvez against the English, was 
 subsequently sent to the American Congress, and 
 Poydras street took his name. Rampart street 
 was the outer line of Carondelet, the Spanish 
 Governor's forts. The Indian name of Missis- 
 sippi, says one of De Soto's followers, was " Chuca- 
 gua;" the Spanish called it Rio Escondido. In 
 1727 the Jesuit fathers came over and located in 
 Faubourg St. Mary, near the first district. In 
 the same year seven Ursuline nuns arrived, and 
 took charge of Charity Hospital, under a contract 
 with the India Company. 
 
 In 1730 they occupied the convent, corner Ursu- 
 line and Chartres Streets, the old facade of which 
 is now used as stores or shops, and the rear abuts 
 upon the garden of the archbishop's residence. 
 
 In 1824 the nuns removed to their present 
 spacious convent and grounds, three miles down 
 the river, and near the U. S. Barracks. 
 
 In 1728 the India Company sent over a number 
 of "Casket Girls," or filles a la cassette, for wives 
 
8 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 to the colonists. The company gave to each girl 
 a casket containing articles of dress. The Ursu- 
 lines took care of them until they were provided 
 with husbands, and from them are descended not 
 a few old families. 
 
 In Cable's beautiful story of the Grandissimes, 
 he thus introduces a fille a la cassette', " Clotilde, 
 orphan of a murdered Huguenot, was one of sixty, 
 the last royal allotment to Louisiana of imported 
 wives. The king's agents had inveigled her away 
 from France with fair stories : ' They will give 
 you a quiet home with some lady of the colony. 
 Have to marry ? — not unless it pleases you. The 
 king himself pays your passage and gives you a 
 casket of clothes. Think of that these times, 
 fillette ; and passage free, withal, to — the Garden 
 of Eden, as you may call it — what more, say you, 
 can a poor girl want? Without doubt, too, like a 
 model colonist, you will accept a good husband 
 and have a great many beautiful children, who 
 may say with pride : ' Me, I am no house-of-cor- 
 rection-girl stock ; my mother was a j^t/e d la cas- 
 sette ! '" 
 
 And again : " Here is the way they talked in 
 New Orleans in those days. If you care to under- 
 stand why Louisiana has grown so out of joint, 
 note the tone of those who_ governed her in the 
 middle of the last century: ' What, my child,' the 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 9 
 
 grand marquis said, 'you a fille a la cassette f 
 France, for shame ! Come here by my side. 
 Will you take a little advice from an old soldier ? 
 It is one word — submit. Whatever is inevitable, 
 submit to it. If you want to live easy and sleep 
 easy, do as other people do — submit. Consider 
 submission in the present case ; how easy, how 
 comfortable, and how little it amounts to ! A 
 little hearing of mass, a little telling of beads, a 
 little crossing of one's self — what is that? One 
 need not believe in them. Don't shake your head. 
 Take my example. Look at me ; all these things 
 go in at this ear and out at this. Do king or 
 clergy trouble me? Not at all. For how does 
 the king in these matters of religion ? I shall not 
 even tell you, he is such a bad boy.' Fillette did 
 not like the nuns, neither would she marry; so 
 the marquis sent her, together with an old lady, 
 to gather the wax of the wild myrtle at Biloxi, ' a 
 beautiful land of low evergreen trees, looking out 
 across the pine-covered sand keys of the Missis- 
 sippi Sound to the Gulf of Mexico.' " 
 
 Under the regency of the Duke of Orleans, the 
 province of Louisiana was the base of the Missis- 
 sippi-Bubble-Scheme of George Law, the prince 
 regent's great financier. Under the representa- 
 tions of the glittering prospectuses, filled with pic- 
 tures of the untold riches of the valley of the 
 
10 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 great river; of its highlands teeming with gold, 
 silver and diamonds ; of the immense grants of 
 land to the company by the prince, all Paris was 
 crazed ; '' Mississippi " was the bonanza stock, the 
 possession of a few shares of which was a gilt- 
 edged passport anywhere and enough to create a 
 plethoric bank account," enabling, as the chron- 
 iclers of those days relate, ' ' servants to go in 
 carriages to the opera and out-dress their mis- 
 tresses." But the bottom at last dropped; no 
 Armour, nor Gould, nor Rockefeller, to become 
 richer, but all to become poorer. ** Mississippi," 
 the province of Louisiana and the Compagnie d' 
 Occident were matters of sore memory to the 
 ancestors of the citizens around the Place d' Arms 
 for long years. 
 
 The colony remained strictly French until 1762, 
 when it was ceded to Spain, and four year later, 
 Ulloa, the Spaniard, arrived in New Orleans. 
 His efforts to obtain peaceful possession failing, in 
 1769 Alexander O'Reilly, as a Spanish general, 
 arrived with a fleet and two thousand six hundred 
 men, took possession of the town in the name of 
 the king, and had a first-class torchlight proces- 
 sion in Jackson Square. 
 
 Several years of insurrection and trouble ensued 
 under the Spanish occupation before General 
 O'Reilly got his subjects under submission. He 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II 
 
 was one of the earliest Fenians, as he drove off all 
 the English traders and would admit none of 
 their vessels. 
 
 Fronting the Place d' Arms, or Jackson Square, 
 on St. Peter's and St. Ann's streets, with a front- 
 age of 336x84 feet upon each street, stand at 
 present two large red brick blocks of stores. 
 O'Reilley, in the king's name, granted this land to 
 the town without reservation. The town subse- 
 quently sold it to Don Andres Almonaster-y- 
 Roxas, on a perpetual lease or yearly rental. His 
 daughter, the Baroness Pontalba, became its pos- 
 sessor and erected the buildings now upon it. 
 
 In 1779, Count Galvez, Captain-General of 
 Cuba, required all residents who had come from 
 the British colonies, including, of course, the 
 United States, to swear allegiance to Spain, and 
 there were but one hundred and seventy in the 
 entire city. 
 
 In an old curiosity shop on St. Charles Street, 
 can be found for sale old copies of Galvez' pro- 
 clamations in Spanish, a half yard square. 
 
 On the thirteenth of February, 1784, the whole 
 bed of the river in front of the city was filled up 
 with large cakes of ice, from two to three feet 
 thick, which continued five days, when it disap- 
 peared down the river. 
 
 On the twenty-first day of Marcn, 1788, oc- 
 
12 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 curred the great fire, which consumed eight hun- 
 dred and fifty-six houses, including the church 
 fronting Place d' Arms. 
 
 In 1 79 1 Baron de Carondelet, a colonel of the 
 Spanish army and Governor of San Salvador, 
 Guatemala, was appointed Governor of the Prov- 
 ince of Louisiana and Florida. The monuments 
 existing to his memory are the canal, which he 
 built from Bayou St. John to the city in 1796, and 
 Carondelet Street, which bears his name. He 
 established the first watch, or police, and caused 
 the streets to be lit. He also offered a premium 
 to those who caused tile roofs to be placed upon 
 their dwellings — as a protection against fire — some 
 of which are still in use. 
 
 In 1794 **The Moniteaur de la Louisiane " 
 first appeared. 
 
 In 1795 the first sugar plantation was started. 
 
 In 1796 yellow fever was first introduced to 
 the inhabitants. 
 
 In 1 801 Spain ceded Louisiana to France. 
 
 In 1803 Napoleon sold it to the United States 
 for eighty millions of francs, or $16,000,000. 
 
 In all these, changes of ownership, it was nolens 
 volens with those who were the most interested, 
 the occupants of the territory. 
 
 The people acquiesced unwillingly to the de- 
 mands of their powerful rulers, and a long period 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 3 
 
 elapsed before cheerful conformity to the laws of 
 the United States prevailed and the instinctive 
 love of la belle France forgotten. 
 
 " The cession had become an accomplished fact. 
 With due drum-beatings and act-reading, flag- 
 raising, cannonading and galloping of aid-de-camp, 
 Nouvelle Orleans had become New Orleans, and 
 Louisiane was Louisiana. * * ^i^ 
 
 Citizen Fusilier asked one of the gossips: 
 * What has the new government to do with the 
 health of the Muses ? ' 
 
 * It introduces the English tongue,' said the old 
 man, scowling. 
 
 * Oh, well,' replied the questioner, 'the Creoles 
 will soon learn the language.' 
 
 ' English is not a language, sir ; it is a jargon ! 
 Hah ! sir, I know men in this city who would 
 rather eat a dog than speak English ! / speak it, 
 but I also speak Choctaw.' "* 
 
 There were children who remembered those 
 days and who lived to see their native city again 
 in the hands of conquerors, the Federal troops, 
 and again obliged to submit to stronger powers. 
 
 Under the rule of the United States, Bore was 
 New Orleans' first mayor, with such names as 
 Livaudais, Tureaud, Faurie, Villere, Fortier, Petit 
 Cavalier, Derbigney and others as councilmen. 
 
 * Grandissimes. 
 
14 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 In 1 80 1 Daniel Clark was United States consul 
 here. He was the father of Mrs. Gen. Myra 
 Clark Gaines, by whose indefatigable efforts she 
 has obtained a judgment of nearly ;^2,ooo,ooo 
 against the city. 
 
 Following in the wake of noticable events is 
 that of the twenty-sixth of June, 1805, when, as 
 the chroniclers relate: ''An elegant barge, 
 equipped with sails, colors and ten oars, ' manned 
 by a sergeant and ten able and faithful hands,' " car- 
 rying a single passenger — Aaron Burr, the bearer 
 of letters from General Wilkenson, introducing 
 him to the city. 
 
 The New Orleans, the first steamboat down the 
 Mississippi, arrived January 10, 18 12, and was 
 nine days and three hours from Pittsburg. 
 
 THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS 
 
 was the the next important event that transpired. 
 The scene of this engagement has been but little 
 interfered with since the memorable eighth of 
 January, 18 15. General Jackson's headquarters 
 were in a. small house, which was thoroughly rid- 
 dled with cannon shot while the general was out 
 of it. Upon the site stands a monument of marble 
 about sixty feet high, upon a brick foundation, 
 fifteen feet wide at its base. An iron staircase 
 winds around a circular brick column to the top. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 15 
 
 Small slits to admit light, but not convenient for 
 purposes of observation, occur at intervals. The 
 top is covered with warped boards, and some of 
 the top stones are fallen. A general air of decay 
 prevails about the structure. The approach ap- 
 pears to be through private grounds, but access is 
 wilHngly given. A short distance from the monu- 
 ment is Chalmette Cemetery, where twelve thous- 
 and five hundred Federal dead are buried. Through 
 the main avenue of this cemetery, Jackson is 
 said to have established his line of battle. Out- 
 side the cemetery wall of brick, and but a few 
 rods from it, are the famous lines of breastworks, 
 its angles all plainly defined, and extending at 
 right angles with the river, nearly, a half mile or 
 more. The Confederates used the same lines 
 during the late war, and raised them so that now 
 the distance is about ten feet from the water in 
 the ditch to the surface of the works, from whence 
 the deadly fire of the Kentuckians and Tennessee- 
 ans decimated the British ranks. Logs sheathed 
 the works inside and out, with earth between and 
 cotton bales. With this defense thirty-two hund- 
 red men, in one hour, with a loss of but thirteen, 
 defeated twelve thousand British troops, with a loss 
 of three thousand. The bottoms of the ditches are 
 now covered with green sluggish water, giving 
 sustenance to flags and bulrushes. A few trees in 
 
l6 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 the distance, opposite Jackson's right, denote the 
 spot where General Packenham fell, while off to 
 the left is seen a broad plain of meadow land 
 with cattle grazing. 
 
 Forty-seven years passed away before the 
 waters of the Mississippi again echoed the can- 
 non's roar in war, and the defenses which now 
 commanded its mouth were tested. 
 
 FARRAGUT AND BUTLER. 
 
 Fort Jackson is situated on the west bank of the 
 river, eighty miles below New Orleans, and cost 
 the government over a million. It was a case- 
 mated fort, and for this occasion mounted eighty 
 guns. On the opposite and east bank is Fort St. 
 Philip, mounting forty guns. Fifteen hundred 
 men garrisoned both forts. The long line of 
 sunken vessels which the Confederates placed there 
 as obstructions had been swept away by high 
 water. As an additional defense, sixteen vessels 
 had been armed, the most of which, inducing two 
 ironclad rams, were to support the forts. 
 
 General Duncan, a Pennsylvanian and West 
 Pointer, commanded both forts, and was considered 
 a good artillerist. Colonel Higgins, formerly of 
 the United States Navy, had immediate command 
 of Fort Jackson. 
 
 Three-quarters of a mile below the forts, a 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 17 
 
 chain had been placed across the river. It was 
 supported by heavy logs, thirty feet long, a few 
 feet apart, to the under side of which the chain 
 was pinned near the up-stream end. In a few 
 months a raft of floating debris formed on the 
 upper side of the chain which reached nearly up 
 to the forts, and its weight and pressure became 
 so great it swept the whole obstruction away and 
 went to sea. It was then replaced by a lighter 
 chain, buoyed by the hulks of eleven schooners. 
 Fire-rafts were also prepared to descend the 
 river. 
 
 On the sixteenth of April, 1862, Farragut's 
 fleet consisting of eight steamers, sixteen gun- 
 boats, twenty one mortar schooners, forty-six sail 
 in all, with three hundred and seven guns, as- 
 cended the river twenty-five miles to the forts. 
 On the evening of that day, Farragut made his 
 iirst reconnoisance. 
 
 "As we came within range, a white puff of smoke 
 floated upward from Fort Jackson and a hundred 
 p.ound rifle shell shrieked through the air, strik- 
 ing the water and exploding about a hundred 
 yards in advance of us. Farragut and Captain 
 Bell had gone aloft, where they sat in the cross- 
 trees taking observations. There was another 
 white puff of smoke and another monster shot came 
 shrieking towards us. This passed perhaps fifty 
 
1 8 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 feet over the heads of the gentlemen aloft, and 
 struck the water two-thirds across the river. 
 ' Back her ' from aloft, and we drift down the river 
 two or three ship's length and only just in time, 
 a third furious shell striking and bursting in the 
 water just at the point we had a moment before 
 left. A low murmur of applause at this remarka- 
 ble excellent gunnery is drawn from our men as 
 we steam slowly up again. Another shot falls 
 short, another bursts prematurely (this one from 
 a forty-two pound smooth bore), when whiz-z-z, 
 with a fearful sound, a hundred-pound shell passes 
 low down between our smoke stack and main 
 mast, the wind of its swift passage actually rock- 
 ing one of the ship's boats hanging on the side."* 
 
 THE FIGHT. 
 
 The last day of preparation is usually the 
 busiest. It was the seventeenth of April. The 
 fleet had all reached the vicinity of the forts on 
 the evening previous, and the dawn of the seven- 
 teenth found the vessels anchored in a tempting 
 huddle four miles below Fort Jackson. The Con- 
 federates began the ball. As the sun was rising, 
 a fiat-boat piled with lumber, soaked with tar and 
 turpentine, was fired by them and cut adrift. A 
 fresh wind was blowing up the river, and the 
 
 "N. Y. Herald. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 9 
 
 descent of this magnificent bonfire was slow. But 
 it came at length, roaring and blazing by, causing 
 a sudden slipping of cables and a general anxiety 
 to get out of the way. As it was supposed to 
 contain something of the torpedo kind, the Mis- 
 sissippi fired a few shells into it without effect. A 
 boat from the Iroquois soon tackled the monster, 
 and, fixing grappling irons into the leeward end, 
 towed it ashore, where it burned itself harmlessly 
 away. The work of preparation then proceeded. 
 The dressing of the masts of the mortar-boats 
 was completed, and they looked as if prepared 
 for a festival instead of a bombardment. In the 
 afternoon some of the mortars were towed 
 into position and fired a few experimental shells, 
 fragments of which were exhibited the next day 
 in New Orleans. Preparations were made for the 
 proper reception of fire-rafts in case they were 
 again employed. All the boats of the mortar 
 fleet were provided with axes, ropes and grap- 
 pling hooks; and early in the evening the boats 
 were reviewed, furnishing a pretty spectacle to 
 the rest of the fleet; .nay, a pair of spectacles.* 
 
 The boats pulled around the Harriet Lane, the 
 flag-ship of Captain Porter, in single line, each 
 officer in charge being questioned as he passed, by 
 Commodore Porter, as follows: ''Fire-buckets? 
 
 *Parton. 
 
20 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 afxes? rope?" A responsive "Ay, ay, sir!" and 
 the Commodore directed : "Pull around the Missis- 
 sippi and return to your vessels. " The Mississippi 
 being a quarter of a mile ahead, the men gave 
 way sturdily in order to beat the rival boats. 
 There were not less than one hundred and fifty 
 boats under review, many of them ten-oared, and 
 the whole scene reminded me more of a regatta 
 than anything else. 
 
 An hour after the review, the men had an 
 opportunity to test, in a practical manner, their 
 means for destroying fire-rafts, and they proved to 
 be an admirable success. A turgid column of 
 black smoke, arising from resinous wood, was 
 seen approaching from the vicinity of the forts. 
 Signal lights were made, the varied colors of which 
 produced a beautiful effect upon the foliage of the 
 river bank, and rendered the darkness intenser by 
 contrast when they disappeared ; instantly a hun- 
 dred boats shot out toward the raft, which now 
 was blazing fiercely and casting a wide zone of 
 light upon the water. Two or three of the gun- 
 boats then got under way, and steamed boldly 
 towards the thing of terror. One of them, the 
 Westfield, Captain Renshaw, gallantly opens her 
 steam valves and dashes furiously upon it, making 
 sparks fly and timbers crash with the force of the 
 blow. Then a stream of water from her hose 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT BS. 21 
 
 plays upon the blazing mass. Now the small 
 boats, which lay alongside, come up helter-skelter, 
 actively employing their men. We see everything 
 distinctly in the broad glare — men, oars, boats, 
 buckets and ropes. The scene looks phantom- 
 like, supernatural, intensely interesting, inextric- 
 ably confused. But finally the object is accom- 
 plished. The raft, yet fiercely burning, is taken 
 out of range of the anchored vessels and towed 
 ashore, where it is slowly consumed. As the 
 boats return they are cheered by the fleet, and the 
 scene changes to one of darkness and repose, 
 broken occasionally by the gruff hail of a seaman 
 when a boat sent on business from one vessel to 
 another passes through the fleet. * 
 
 THE SECOND DAY. 
 
 The next morning the bombardment began. 
 At daylight each of the small steamers attached to 
 the mortar fleet, took four of the schooners in tow 
 and drew them slowly up the river, the bright 
 green foliage waving above their masts. Fourteen 
 of them were ranged in line, close together, along 
 the western shore behind the forest ; the one in 
 advance being a mile and three-quarters below 
 Fort Jackson. Six were stationed near the east- 
 ern bank, in full view of both forts, two miles and 
 
 *New York Times. 
 
22 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 three-quarters from St. Philip. The orders were 
 to concentrate the fire upon Fort Jackson, the 
 nearest to both divisions, since if that were re- 
 duced, St. Philip must necessarily yield. At nine, 
 before all the mortar vessels were in position. 
 Fort Jackson began the conflict, the balls plung- 
 ing into the water a hundred yards too short The 
 gun-boat Owasco, which had steamed up ahead of 
 the schooners, was the first to reply. In a few. 
 minutes, however, the deep thunder of the first 
 bomb struck into the overture, and a huge black 
 ball, two hundred and fifteen pounds of iron and 
 gunpowder, whirled aloft a mile into the air with 
 the roar of ten thousand humming tops, and 
 curved with majestic slowness down into the 
 swamp near the fort, exploding with a dull, heavy 
 sound. The mortar men were in no haste. For 
 the first half hour they fired very slowly, while 
 Captain Porter was observing the effect of the fire 
 and giving new directions respecting the elevations, 
 the length of fuse and the weight of the charge of 
 powder. The calculations were made with such 
 nicety that the changes in the weight of the charge 
 were made by single ounces, when the whole 
 charge was nearly twenty pounds. The Confeder- 
 ates, too, fired slowly and badly during the first 
 half hour. By ten o'clock, however, both sides 
 had ceased to experiment and had began to work. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 23 
 
 The scene at this time was in the highest degree 
 exciting and picturesque. The rigging of the 
 Federal fleet, just below the tnortar vessels, was 
 filled with spectators from rail to mast head, who 
 watched with breathless interest the rise and fall 
 of every shell, and burst into cheers when a good 
 shot was made. Four or five of the gun-boats 
 were moving about in the middle of the river be- 
 tween the two divisions of mortars, keeping up a 
 vigorous fire upon the nearer batteries. Both 
 forts were firing steadily and well, their shots 
 splashing water over the mortar vessels on the 
 eastern side, and throwing up the soft soil of the 
 bank high over the masts of those on the western. 
 It is wonderful how many splendid shots may be 
 made at a distant object without one hitting it. 
 The balls fell all around the mortar boats all day 
 and only two of them were struck, and they not 
 seriously injured. Not a man was hurt in the 
 mortar fleet the first day except those who were 
 sickened by the tremendous concussion which fol- 
 lowed every discharge. The men stood on tiptoe 
 and with open mouths to lessen the effect of the 
 stunning sound. But men can get used to any- 
 thing. They came at length to be able to sleep 
 upon the deck of the mortar boats while the 
 bombs were going off at the rate of two a minute. 
 It was exhausting work, handling those huge globes 
 
24 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 of iron, and the men, too tired to go below, would 
 lie down along the forecastle, falling instantly to 
 sleep, and never stir till they were called to duty 
 again. 
 
 Men can bear what no other creature can. As 
 the firing grew hotter, the very bees in the woods 
 could not endure it, but came in swarms over the 
 river and buzzed about the ears of the men in the 
 rigging of the fleet. It was too much even for the 
 fish in the river. Large quantities of dead fish 
 floated past, killed by the close thunder of the 
 guns. 
 
 When the fire had lasted an hour and a half the 
 scene was enlivened by a new feature. Over the 
 woods beyond the forts are seen seven or eight 
 moving columns of smoke — Confederate steamers 
 — and soon three of them appear steering towards 
 the forts. They soon get under cover again, and 
 then three burning rafts are set afloat, but are 
 soon disposed of The day wore on. At four in 
 the afternoon General Butler's steamer, Saxon, 
 arrived with the news that the general and his 
 troops' were below and ready, and also that the 
 Monitor had sunk the Merrimac. An hour later 
 flames were seen bursting from Fort Jackson, and 
 the fire of its guns slackened. The citadel and 
 barracks within the fort were on fire. Both forts 
 ceased firinor, while the conflagration lasted till 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 25 
 
 two o'clock the next morning. At half past six 
 Captain Porter gave the signal to cease firing, 
 and the night passed in silence. 
 
 THE THIRD DAY. 
 
 The next morning, to the surprise of all, Fort 
 Jackson responded vigorously to the fire of the 
 mortars. At half past eleven a rifle ball crushed 
 through one of the bomb schooners and sunk her 
 in twenty minutes without harming a man. The 
 Oneida was twice hit in the afternoon, two gun 
 carriages knocked to pieces and nine men wounded. 
 The fire of the fort slackened as the day wore on. 
 A shell bursting in the levee had flooded the in- 
 terior of the fort with water. Another broke into 
 the officers' mess room while they were at dinner, 
 and the ugly thing lay smoking upon the ground 
 between them and the only door. They sprang 
 away horrified, while the fuse went out without 
 exploding the shell. 
 
 General Butler and staff arrived in the afternoon, 
 and after dark went up in a small boat to take a 
 look at the cable which obstructed passage up the 
 river. At night the mortars played upon the 
 fort. A deserter, a Dan Rice circus performer, 
 arrived, making his way from Fort Jackson to the 
 fleet, lighted and guided by the fire of the mortars. 
 The third day of the bombardment passed, when 
 
26 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 it was decided to attempt to cut the cable, which' 
 was supported by hulks of schooners. The at- 
 tempt by means of petards failing, the gun-boat, 
 Itasca steaming up to a hulk, the men sprang onj 
 board, lashed the gun-boat securely to her side.j 
 A rocket shot into the air. They were discovered. 
 Both forts opened fire, but, protected by the 
 darkness and smoke, succeeded in severing with 
 sledge and chisel the chain. The anchors of the 
 hulks were slipped, the central hulk removed, 
 while the current swung those upon each side 
 away. 
 
 THE FOURTH DAY. 
 
 The fourth day of the bombardment passed 
 without incident. Nearly four thousand shells, 
 costing the government ;^50 each, had been fired, 
 and still the forts replied with determined vigor, 
 and, as usual, fire-rafts at night were regular vis- 
 itors. 
 
 THE FIFTH DAY. 
 
 The fifth day dawned — April 22. Farragut in- 
 tended this should be the last day of the bom- 
 bardment, but on account of disabled gun-boats 
 he decided to wait another day. 
 
 THE SIXTH DAY. 
 
 The sixth day the forts were silent. Not one 
 gun was fired by them from morning till night. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 2/ 
 
 The bombardment was languidly continued. 
 Some said Fort Jackson had been evacuated. 
 Others thought a new cable was being placed 
 across the river above the forts. Men at the 
 mast-head reported twelve steamers above the 
 forts moving about briskly. Occasionally one of 
 these came down to the old cable to reconnoiter, 
 draw the fire of a gun-boat and return. No in- 
 ference could be drawn from the absence of a flag 
 at Fort Jackson, for it had been taken down after 
 the first day. The general commanding in New 
 Orleans wrote that day to General Duncan : " Say 
 to your officers and men that their heroic forti- 
 tude in enduring one of the most terrific bom- 
 bardments ever known, and the courage which 
 they have evinced, will surely enable them to crush 
 the enemy whenever he dares to come from under 
 cover. Their gallant conduct attracts the admira- 
 tion of all, and will be recorded in history as 
 splendid examples for patriots and soldiers." 
 
 Duncan reported: ' ' Heavy and continued bom- 
 bardment all night, and still progressing. No fur- 
 ther casualties, except two men slightly wounded.'' 
 
 At sunset of the twenty-third, Farragut's ar- 
 rangements were all completed for running by the 
 forts. The mortar boats were to cover the attack 
 by as rapid firing as possible. The Harriet Lane, 
 Westfield, Owasca, Clifton, Miami and Jackson, 
 
m 
 28 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 were to engage the water-battery below Fort Jack- 
 son. Farragut, with the largest ships, the Hart- 
 ford, Richmond and Brooklyn, was to advance 
 upon Fort Jackson. Captain Bailey, with the 
 Cayuga, Pensacola, Mississippi, Oneida, Varuna, 
 Katahdin, Kineo and Wissahickon, was to take 
 the east bank and engage Fort St. Philip. Cap- 
 tain Bell, with the Scioto, Iroquois, Pinola, Itasca 
 and Kennebec, was to advance up the middle of 
 the river and engage the Confederate fleet above 
 the forts. 
 
 At half-past three o'clock on the morning of 
 the twenty-fourth, the squadron commenced to 
 move. It was two miles to the forts, and five 
 miles to a point beyond range. 
 
 The fleet advanced in the appointed three lines, 
 one ship close behind the other. Captain Bailey, 
 on the eastern side, caught the first fire. His 
 Cayuga had first passed through the opening in 
 the cable, when both forts discovered him and 
 opened upon him with every available gun. The 
 balls flew around the ship; but the firing was 
 much too high, and he was seldom hulled. As 
 yet the Cayuga was silent, and the Confederate 
 gunners, as they afterwards said, could see nothing 
 whatever ; they averred that they aimed no gun 
 that morning at an object except when the flash 
 of Union guns gave them a momentary delusive 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 29 
 
 target. Bailey's division steamed on three-quar- 
 ters of a mile under this fire without firing a shot 
 in reply, guided on the way by the flashes of St. 
 Philip. Running in at length, close under the 
 fort, he gave it a broadside of grape and canister 
 as he passed. The Pensacola, Mississippi, the 
 Varuna and rest of the division followed close be- 
 hind, each delivering broadsides of small shot and 
 keeping steadily on in the wake of the Cayuga. 
 All of this division passed the forts with little 
 damage except the Portsmouth losing her tow, 
 drifted down the river. 
 
 The middle division of Captain Bell was less 
 fortunate. The Scioto, Iroquois and Pinola passed 
 by under the most tremendous fire, but the Itasca 
 received, opposite Fort St. Philip, a cataract of 
 shot, one of which pierced her boiler and she 
 dropped down the river. The Winona, staggered 
 by the annihilating fire, retired. The Kennebec 
 was caught in the cable, lost her way in the dark- 
 ness and smoke, and returned to her anchorage. 
 
 Commodore Farragut meanwhile was having, to 
 use his own language, "a rough time of it." The 
 Hartford advanced to within a mile and a quarter 
 of Fort Jackson before receiving its attention. 
 Farragut was in the fore-rigging, peering into the 
 night with his glass. Then the fort opened upon 
 the ship a fire that was better aimed than that 
 
30 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 which had saluted Captain Bailey. The ship was 
 repeatedly struck. Two guns were mounted 
 upon the forecastle which replied to the fire of the 
 fort while steaming directly for it. At the " dis- 
 tance of half a mile, broadsides of grape and 
 canister drove every man in the fort under cover ; 
 but the casemate guns were in full play, and fhe 
 Hartford was well peppered. The Richmond 
 quickly followed and deluged the fort with grape 
 and canister. The Brooklyn, the last of this di- 
 vision, was caught by one of the cable hulks and 
 lagged behind. Captain Craven of the Brooklyn 
 relates: "I extricated my ship from the rafts; 
 her head was turned up stream, and in a few 
 minutes she was fully butted by the celebrated 
 ram, Manassas. She came butting into our star- 
 board gangway, first firing from her trap-door 
 when within about ten feet of the ship, directly 
 toward our smoke-stack, her shot entering about 
 five feet above the water-line and lodging in the 
 sand bags which protected our steam drum. I 
 had discovered this queer looking gentleman, 
 while forcing my way over the barricade, lying 
 close into the bank, and when he made his ap- 
 pearance the second time, I was so close to him 
 he had no opportunity to get up his full speedy 
 and his efforts to damage me were frustrated, our 
 chain-armor proving a perfect protection to our 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 3 1 
 
 sides. He soon slid off and disappeared in the 
 darkness." 
 
 Most of the ships had run by, and Farragut, 
 having escaped Fort Jackson, was advancing to- 
 wards the other fort when a new enemy appeared 
 —the fleet of Confederate gun-boats lying in order 
 of battle just above St. Philip. Captain Bailey, 
 with the Cayuga, was in the midst of them be- 
 fore he knew it. The gun-boats ran at him full 
 tilt, he answering with eleven-inch solid shot, com- 
 pelling them to surrender before the other ships 
 came up. The Varuna and Oneida came dashing 
 in to the rescue; the former was struck by the 
 iron-clad, Morgan, and again by another iron-clad, 
 crushing in her sides, to which she replied by five 
 eight-inch shells abaft her armor, settling the 
 ram and driving it ashore in flames. The Varuna 
 then sank. During this time the Morgan was 
 crippled and surrendered to the Oneida. Mean- 
 while, Farragut was battling with the forts, pouring 
 broadsides into St. Philip and receiving the fire of 
 both. Suddenly a huge fire-raft blazed up before 
 him, revealing the ram Manasses behind it, push- 
 ing it towards the Hartford. The latter was soon 
 ablaze and soon extinguished, after backing off 
 and getting clear of the raft. The Manassas then 
 made a dash at the Mississippi, or both at each 
 other, when the former dodged the latter and ran 
 
32 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 ashore, the Mississippi pouring a broadside into 
 her. She soon afterwards drifted down the stream. 
 
 The scene when the fire caught the flag-ship, 
 which was the crowning moment of the battle, is 
 beyond the power of words to describe. The 
 mere noise was an experience unique to the oldest 
 officers : — twenty mortars, a hundred and forty-two 
 guns in the fleet, a hundred and twenty on the 
 forts ; the crash of splinters, the explosion of 
 boilers and magazines ; the shouts, the cries, the 
 shrieks of scalded and drowning men ! Add to 
 this the belching flashes of the guns, the blazing 
 raft, the burning steamboats, the river full of fire. 
 
 The Cayuga was struck forty-two times. On 
 arriving at the quarantine station the Confederate 
 camp then surrendered. The fleet soon followed 
 and anchored. The dead, thirty in number, were 
 buried, and the wounded, one hundred and nine- 
 teen, duly cared for. At eleven a. m. the fleet 
 moved up the river towards New Orleans, while 
 the garrisons of the forts surrendered to Captain 
 Porter, who had remained with the mortar boats 
 below. 
 
 At one o'clock on the afternoon of the twenty- 
 fifth, Farragut's fleet lay at anchor off the head of 
 Canal Street, having met no obstacles in the way 
 of batteries except at Chalmette, Jackson's old 
 battle ground, where a brief engagement ensued, 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 33 
 
 with but trifling loss upon either side. During 
 the evening before, the burning of cotton and 
 ships began. Fifteen thousand bales of cotton on 
 the levee, a dozen cotton ships and fifteen or 
 twenty steamboats in the river; an unfinished ram 
 and vast heaps of coal, wood and timber. Hogs- 
 heads of sugar and molasses were stove in by 
 hundreds. Parts of the levee ran molasses, while 
 thousands of negroes carried off sugar in aprons, 
 pails and baskets. 
 
 The evacuation of the city by the Confederate 
 troops had taken place. The morning report of 
 the Confederate General, Lovell, on the day of 
 evacuation, showed his force to have been but 
 two thousand and eight hundred men ; only two 
 hundred more than the Spanish General O'Reilly 
 brought with him to capture the city nearly a hun- 
 dred years before. 
 
 At eight o'clock Sunday morning, April 27, 
 Captain Morris of the Pensacola, which lay off the 
 United States mint, sent a few men ashore, who 
 hoisted the United States flag upon the mint. It 
 remained but a few hours when it was removed by 
 the exasperated citizens. 
 
 On the twenty-ninth. Captain Bell with a hun- 
 dred marines landed upon the levee, marched 
 into the city, hauled down the Confederate flags 
 from the mint and custom-house, and hoisted in- 
 
34 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 Stead the flag of the United States. Captain Bell 
 locked the custom-house and took the key to his 
 ship. 
 
 At noon, May i, General Butler and his trans- 
 ports arrived, and disembarked at four p. m. with the 
 Thirty-first Massachusetts, Fourth Wisconsin and 
 Everett's Battery of Artilery, marching down the 
 levee to Poydras Street, thence to St. Charles, 
 thence to Canal and the custom-house, where the 
 Thirty-first were quartered. The Twelfth Con- 
 necticut bivouacked upon the levee, and next day 
 camped in Lafayette Square, opposite the city hall. 
 
 General Butler then ordered the St Charles 
 Hotel, which was closed, to be opened for the 
 accommodation of himself and staff. He prepared 
 his proclamation, as Galvez and other rulers had 
 done before him, but the printers wouldn't publish 
 it. He then placed his own compositors in the 
 True Delta office, who set up and struck it off, 
 proclaiming martial law. The circulation of Con- 
 federate money was forbidden, and payment of 
 municipal taxes suppressed. The mayor and 
 common council were arrested and brought before 
 him at the St. Charles, where Pierre Soule, for- 
 mer United States Senator, defended them. He 
 was subsequently arrested and sent to Fort War- 
 ren, in Boston Harbor. A fine bust of Senator 
 Soule can be seen in the Supreme Court room in 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 35 
 
 the old Spanish Cabildo building in Jackson 
 Square, also a portrait of the late Judah P. Benja- 
 min, the Confederate Secretary of State, together 
 with that of General Grimes, General Andrew 
 Jackson's Adjutant-General. 
 
 Algiers was next occupied by Federal troops 
 as well as CarroUton. 
 
 Commodore Farragut's gun-boats proceeded to 
 their work up the river to Baton Rouge, Natchez 
 and Vicksburg, while the inhabitants of New Or- 
 leans remained passively waiting to see which way 
 the tide would turn. 
 
 Twenty-two years have passed, and this first 
 Tuesday in November, 1884, when the great 
 question as to who shall govern these United 
 States is being worked out, the writer has seen 
 at the polls in the city of New Orleans, a ticket, 
 with the words printed in green ink, *' For Presi- 
 dent, Benjamin F. Butler." 
 
 MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT. 
 
 The city is divided into seven representative 
 districts and seventeen wards. 
 
 The Common Council is composed of thirty 
 members. The mayor, treasurer, comptroller, 
 commissioner of public works, commissioner of 
 police and public buildings, are elected every four 
 years and receive in salaries ^3,500 each, except 
 
36 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 the police commissioner, who receives ;^3,ooo. 
 The city attorney is paid ;^3,500 a year with nec- 
 essary assistants. The civil engineer gets ;^2,500. 
 There are four police courts, who in addition per- 
 form the duties of justices of the peace. They 
 receive each ;^2,5oo per annum, and are entitled 
 to four clerks each, whose saleries aggregate 
 $4,200. In those districts containing police 
 courts, the office of justice of the peace has been 
 abolished. 
 
 The markets of the city are farmed out to indi- 
 viduals, who have the collection of the rentals. 
 They return in the neighborhood of ;^200,ooo per 
 annum. The stalls are let by the day. and are 
 open from 3 a. m. till noon. 
 
 The gambling houses, in common with all li- 
 censes, pay a large portion of their gains to the 
 municipal government, aggregating a very large 
 amount, and which in turn is ostensibly devoted 
 to alms houses. 
 
 The report of the Board of Health gives the 
 present population as follows: 
 
 Whites 171,000 
 
 Colored 63,000 
 
 Total ■ 234,000 
 
 In 1 86 1 the valuation of the real estate, per- 
 sonal property and slaves was : 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 37 
 
 Real Estate $87,434,550 
 
 Personal Property 31,148,733 
 
 Slaves 6,609,210 
 
 Total , $125,192,403 
 
 At which time the ratio of taxation on every 
 one hundred dollars was one and one-half per 
 cent. 
 
 In 1863 the valuation of real estate and per- 
 sonal property was reduced as follows : 
 
 Real Estate $86,000,000 
 
 Personal Property 14,000,000 
 
 Total. . . ., : $100,000,000 
 
 And the ratio of taxation on every one hundred 
 dollars was one per cent. 
 
 From the last mentioned total valuation it has 
 fluctuated from its highest points in 1 870, when 
 it was 140,000,000 to its lowest in 1880 of $gi,- 
 000,000. 
 
 In 1883 the total valuation was ^113,000,000. 
 Rate of taxation on every one hundred dollars 
 two per cent. 
 
 It would be a difficult problem to attempt to 
 figure out the prosperity of the city or its retro- 
 grading movement by the assessor's tables. The 
 trade and commerce of the city may increase and 
 quadruple ; its merchants acquire wealth and build 
 palatial homes, but the influence of none of this 
 
V 
 
 38 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 is seen except in the increased aggregate amount 
 of funds required for the city's bugdet. 
 
 The total receipts for six months ending De- 
 cember 31, 1883, were $2,308,948.23, admitting 
 the first half year to be the same, the aggregate 
 would be $4,617,896.46, or over four and a half 
 millions per annum. 
 
 The total bonded debt of New York city, in 
 round numbers, is about $125,000,000, less its 
 sinking fund of ^^3 5, 000,000, being $90,000,000 
 net, and about eight per cent, of the assessed 
 valuation of its real estate. That of New Orleans 
 is about eighteen per cent, of the assessed valuation 
 of its real estate. 
 
 The total bonded and floating debt of the city 
 at the close of 1883, according to the comptroller's 
 report, was ;^ 18, 672, 947. 13. 
 
 The Myra Clark Gaines judgment against the 
 city, now being on appeal, amounts in addition 
 to ^1,925,667,82. 
 
 Of this total indebtedness, there has been 
 funded into what are called premium bonds, about 
 $8,000,000, drawing five per cent, and payable, 
 both principle and interest, when — the wheel says 
 so. 
 
 EVERYBODY PLAYS IT. 
 
 Everybody plays something. From the street 
 fakir who shows you (?) how to draw the right 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 39 
 
 card (next time), from the Rue Royale keno, 
 rqulette and poker temptations, to the twenty-five 
 cent -daily, and the five-dollar monthly drawings 
 of Generals Beauregard and Early's Louisiana 
 lotteries, we ascend to the quarterly drawings in 
 April, October, January and July, of the lottery 
 of the city fathers, by which drawings, as much 
 of the city's bonded debt is paid (known as pre- 
 mium bonds), as there are funds to apply. These 
 bonds are for twenty dollars each, and draw five 
 per cent, per annum from July 1875 ; neither prin- 
 cipal nor interest is paid until the wheel of for- 
 tune says they are entitled to payment; then such 
 bond numbers as are draw)i from the wheel, are 
 paid, both principal and interest ; and in addition, 
 as an inducement for holders of other bonded 
 indebtedness of the city to exchange their bonds 
 for those of this class, prizes aggregating $50,000 
 are offered and paid to the holders of the lucky 
 numbers three months afterwards. 
 
 The administrator of finance, in his report advo- 
 cating this method, says: *'The City Council, in 
 its efforts to find a solution to this question, has 
 been compelled to abandon the ordinary forms of 
 finance as unequal to the occasion, and to seek 
 new and perhaps novel means of meeting the 
 exigency." 
 
 The extensive appliances of the credit system 
 
40 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 are by no means confined to the city. One may 
 see in brokers' windows, warrants of the Auditor 
 of State, issued in payment of salaries of judges 
 and other court officers; for payment of work 
 upon levees; for services of officers of election, 
 and various other duties performed, which war- 
 rants are bought, sold and dealt in as so much 
 merchandise, to be paid when there is money in 
 the treasury to pay with. 
 
 The entire State, together with Alabama and 
 Mississippi, are all afflicted with a system of credit 
 which is sapping the very roots of the vegetation 
 which grows. By acts of the legislature, the 
 planter is permitted to give his mortgage-note, 
 covering his personal property and the crop to be 
 raised upon his plantation, to the merchant, in 
 payment for supplies furnished. If the crop is 
 not sufficient to meet the note — which is often the 
 case — the next crop or succeeding crops are cov- 
 ered by it until paid. By this system, hope lends 
 enchantment to the prospect of a fair crop with 
 good prices, and the planter indulges in many 
 imaginary wants which, if money was required to 
 possess them, he would do without. He also per- 
 mits himself to pay from one to two per cent, a 
 month for the use of the supplies, and a very 
 large profit to the merchant upon the goods, be- 
 sides. Upon a capital of ;^io,ooo, the merchant 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 41 
 
 can do a business of ^50,000 a year. He sends 
 these notes to his factors in the cities, who furnish 
 him the funds to draw against as often as his busi- 
 ness requires. The planter has no choice of mar- 
 kets — he is tied hands and feet. He grows poorer 
 while the merchant grows richer. Why not plant 
 less cotton and more necessaries of life? Because 
 the merchant wants only cotton, rice or sugar; he 
 will not receive a mortgage upon mixed farming — 
 he desires to furnish corn, flour and bacon himself 
 Georgia has repealed the act. The strong and 
 active competition of cotton factors in the streets 
 of its towns and cities, thronged as they are dur- 
 ing the fall months with hundreds of teams loaded 
 with cotton, whose owners are more independent, 
 illustrates forcibly the difference in the condition 
 of the producers. 
 
 » 
 
 THE STONE PAVEMENTS 
 
 of the city, considering the length of time they 
 have been laid, are excellent. They consist of 
 blocks of granite over a foot square, and quite as 
 thick. They were brought from the New England 
 States in cotton vessels as early os 1850, and con- 
 stant use has had but little effect upon them. As- 
 phalt pavement is being laid upon St. Charles Ave- 
 nue, and when completed will be, in connection 
 with the shell road, a favorite outlet for driving. 
 
42 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 DRAINAGE. 
 
 The system of drainage employed is of great 
 interest to strangers. Standing upon Canal Street 
 at almost any point, and looking towards the 
 levee, the hulls of the river steamboats appear to 
 sit high — above the point of observation, and they 
 do ; our observing point is below the water level. 
 Along the levee are laid water mains, into which 
 engines located at the head of Celeste Street, and 
 also near the French Market, draw the water from 
 the river, force it into these mains, from which 
 hydrants discharge it into the gutters abutting 
 upon the levee, and the grade being down, the 
 water continues to flood the gutters by a current 
 until it is discharged into canals beyond the 
 business portions of the city, which run at angles 
 to these gutters. When the latter are kept clean, 
 free from obstructions, the drainage is good ; but 
 they become often obstructed, particularly where 
 the streets are not paved. When the water 
 level is reached, as at those canals which are the 
 repositories for all sewerage, the accumulation is 
 moved by ** draining machines," of which there 
 are three, having two wheels each ; one at Dublin 
 Avenue, one at Bayou St. John, and one at Lon- 
 don Avenue. They are the old Dutch paddle 
 wheels, about thirty feet in diameter, with paddles 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 43 
 
 four feet wide and six feet longf. These revolve 
 and paddle or push the water into a canal fojir 
 feet higher than where the opposite side of the 
 wheel enters the receiving canal, and thus the 
 water is elevated that height to flow down to Lake 
 Ponchartrain, a distance of from four to six miles, 
 and receiving but these few feet of fall in that 
 distance. The Canal Street, cars towards Metarie 
 road, run near one of these machines. As before 
 stated, where the streets are paved and the gutters 
 kept free from accumulated rubbish, there is a 
 current in them from the hydrants at the levee to 
 the canals at the west end, but obstructed as 
 they are sometimes allowed to become, the water 
 often gets stagnant. During high water, the Mis- 
 sissippi is often ten or twelve feet above the level 
 of the back part of the city. 
 
 Below the Celeste Street and levee pumping 
 station a couple of squares, is located the water- 
 works engines. The reservoir is two squares back 
 of them. The top of the reservoir is about twen- 
 ty-five feet above the pavement. A stand-pipe 
 about seventy feet high gives pressure enough, to- 
 gether with the engines, to send water from a noz- 
 zle about seventy-five feet. Many people take the 
 water at their residences, but for drinking purposes 
 rain water filtered is mostly used, as the infallible 
 
44 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 huge, high, round wooden tank at every house 
 plainly shows. 
 
 AREA. 
 
 Although the maps of the city show a great 
 area of territory extending from Lake Ponchar- 
 train to the river, and from the west line of Car- 
 ^ollton to the lower protection levee, the searcher 
 of locations beyond Greenwood cemetery. Jockey 
 Club grounds and Elysian Fields will find it diffi- 
 cult to trace the surveyor's stakes in the meadows 
 and swamps which abound. 
 
 STREETS. 
 
 The streets of the city north of Canal have 
 strictly preserved their identity in narrownesSj 
 names and ancient architecture. Canal Street was 
 the neutral ground between French New Orleans 
 and the cosmopolitans who inhabited the south 
 side of it. There the business houses and resi- 
 dences are more American, and the further one 
 goes towards the Exposition, residences and 
 grounds become more spacious and shrubbery 
 more abundant. 
 
 Frequently the streets have duplicate names, 
 and in numbering there is great irregularity. 
 Nearly all the streets which cross Canal lose their 
 identity on reaching it. St. Charles, south of Canal^ 
 becomes Royal on the north; Carondelet becomes 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 45 
 
 Bourbon ; Baronne, Dauphine ; .Dryades, Bur- 
 gundy, etc.; while on the other hand many a 
 street will course around squares, angles and 
 places and still keep its name, as does Annuncia- 
 tion Street. Upon the subject of streets the 
 Tunes- Democrat says : 
 
 There is room for a great deal of improvement on all these points. 
 It would be impossible, we suppose, to get the name of Dumaine 
 Street spelled as it should be, " Mame" Street. The Creole speUing, 
 which has made the preposition a part of the name, is so old now that 
 it would be well nigh impossible to correct it with anything less than a 
 revolution. But why should we continue to misspell it Dryades instead 
 of Dryads, and Prytania instead of Prytanea? And why will the city 
 authorities get it, nine times out of ten, Philip Street ? 
 
 It was only a few years ago that, by using the adjectives North and 
 South, we were able to distinguish between the two Ramparts and two 
 Claibornes. We have made no similar arrangement to distinguish 
 other duplicates. Who can tell where No. — Union Street is? It 
 may be near Carondelet Street or near Elysian Fields. We have a Jos- 
 ephine up-town and a Josephine down-town, five miles away from each 
 other ; a Villere Street in New Orleans proper and another in Algiers ; 
 a Chestnut Street in the city and another in Carrollton ; and much 
 more of the same sort to create confusion. 
 
 But it is in the numbering of its streets that New Orleans has gone 
 mad. In this respect it is the worst city in the world. With nearly 
 five hundred streets only ninety-five, or less than a fifth, are numbered, 
 and only a very small portion of these. These numbers, moreover, 
 are irregular and uncertain, break off at one point, begin two blocks 
 away, break off again and begin again. Two out of three houses in 
 New Orleans bear no distinguishing marks at all. And again we deal 
 in duplicates. Constance Street is numbered up to Calliope, and 
 starts there again from No. i. There are consequently two Nos. 6 
 Constance Street, No. lo. No. i6, and so on up. 
 
 Peters Street is worse. It begins at Canal and is numbered correctly 
 enough to St. Louis, but here this stops. It begins afresh at Dumaine, 
 going back to No. i, and so contmues to St. Philip, and finally it 
 
46 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 starts at Ursulines again at No. i. There are consequently three Nos. 
 2 North Peters Street, in addition to a No. 2 South Peters Street, 
 another Peters Street (neither north nor south), a Peters Avenue and a 
 Peter Street (in Algiers). A fine chance this to mislead a stranger. 
 
 A native poet has rung out the names of some 
 of the streets in the following lines : 
 
 I wandered away from my heart's dear home, 
 
 I roved over land and sea ; 
 And back to my home again I come. 
 
 And peace comes back to me. 
 I hasten along from the Esplanade 
 
 And impatient wend my way, 
 And reach Canal Street — stop and gaze 
 
 At the Bronze of Henry Clay. 
 
 I jump in a white car — start for home. 
 
 And we're rushing along Baronne, 
 Until we reached Tivoli's ring — 
 
 I am all in the car alone. 
 Till it stops — and a sweet-faced little maid 
 
 Gets on — and I pass her fare. 
 While the sunshine gleams like a liquid beam 
 
 On her shimmering golden hair. 
 
 We make the turn, and I sudden look 
 
 At the mythological names, 
 And I read Calliope — through my brain 
 
 An inspiration flames. 
 I rave, ' ' Calliope, blest be Thou, 
 
 Thou mother of Orpheus, send 
 Or come to me and direct my pen ; 
 
 Thy genius, Goddess, lend." 
 
 Next Clio ! Hist'ry's Muse, and then 
 
 Erato — Sweet lyric Muse, 
 Thou Jupiter's child — oh bless me too, 
 
 Thou sure wilt not refuse : 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 47 
 
 And merry Thalia, lend Thy smile ; 
 
 Melpomene, sound Thy lyre — 
 I think of Thee, I am charged the while. 
 
 When Thou speakest my soul's on fire. 
 
 Terpsichore— Dance ! let Thy Grace be seen, 
 
 That my heart may dance with Thee. 
 Euterpe, play on Thy soulful Flute, 
 
 Polymnia — a hymn for me. 
 And — here's Felicity, Heaven itself, 
 
 What more is yet to win? 
 The goddesses gone, on earth again, 
 
 And TO-DAY must again begin. 
 
 St. Andrew comes, and a peaceful calm, 
 
 And 1 turn to the little maid : 
 " Will you tell me the name of the next street, Miss? 
 
 Pray do ! never be afraid." 
 And she sweetly smiled with a pretty blush. 
 
 Each simple word between, 
 " I live on that street, it is named like me. 
 
 And we're both called Josephine ! " 
 
 " May I get out there? May I go to your door? 
 
 May I tell what I thought and saw ? " 
 "Oh, no," said she ; "but you might, perhaps, 
 
 Call in and see my papa." 
 
 * ♦ * ♦ * * 
 
 I got off the car, forgot each muse. 
 
 Through couleur de rose — all's seen ; 
 I saw papa, and he blest us both, 
 
 And I'm happy with Josephine. 
 
 Canal Street is a great boulevard, and at night 
 one of the best lighted streets in America. A row 
 of electric light poles, not too high, are placed 
 through its centre, while the electric lights from 
 the store fronts are prevented by the wide bal- 
 
48 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 conies from throwing their rays above and are 
 concentrated below. Canal Street is about one 
 hundred and twenty feet from curb to curb, and 
 flanked by broad stone sidewalks. It is the ob- 
 jective and starting point for all horse-car lines, 
 and from it one can take the cars for Chicago, 
 Cincinnati, Washington or New York. 
 
 Its stores are richly laden with goods, and its 
 windows display choice French importations of 
 dress fabrics, kid gloves and fancy articles. Other 
 windows have tempting exhibits of choice French 
 candies and elegant displays of boned turkey hid 
 in crystal jellies, together with other appetizing 
 dishes of the French restaurant. The signs of 
 the drug stores are: '' Pharniacie Francaise,'' or 
 '' Botica Espanola.'' Upon the pavements are 
 flower women in attitudes like those of ancient 
 Rome, surrounded with huge boquets of roses 
 and chrysanthemums, in combinations peculiar 
 to New Orleans. Here sits the old turbaned neg- 
 ress, brushing with peacock feathers the flies 
 that gather over her sweetmeats while she laugh- 
 ingly mutters French at the fezed Turk as he 
 passes by in his flowing robes. 
 
 Richly attired ladies and children meet nimble 
 Chinese : Boston and New York young men ; 
 copper colored Choctaws ; black-eyed Creoles 
 with fine forms and well fitting costumes; Spanish 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 49 
 
 Creoles in mourning, whole families, the children 
 in deepest black with the whitest of stockings ; 
 bronzed Mexican greasers, with dull eyes, few 
 hairs upon their chins, and covered with the queer 
 sombrero; Mexican military officers wearing eye 
 glasses ; Mexican sol-diers with ill fitting garments ; 
 British sailors in slouchy corduroys ; French 
 sailors better dressed ; Mississippi stevedores with 
 cotton-hooks hanging from their belts ; the black 
 plantation hand with bulging eye-balls and clothes 
 shining with cane juice. All these may be seen 
 any pleasant day ; but Canal Street is broad, 
 broad enough for all this queer conglomerate 
 medley of people of such diverse individualities. 
 
 During the carnival season, the store fronts 
 above the awnings have tiers of seats from whence 
 thousands of spectators view the processions. 
 
 The Clay statue on Canal Street is the centre 
 of gravity for all crowds and open air meetings. 
 Henry Clay stands there with outstretched arm, 
 which, to the angry crowds of labor strikers or 
 excited political gatherings, is a presence of peace 
 and moderation. It is said that a portion of the 
 inscription on the base was partially obliterated 
 during the rebelHon ; but on the other hand it is 
 denied that any obliteration has taken place other 
 than the action of the elements. 
 
50 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 PARKS. 
 
 There really are none. The extensive meadow- 
 lands, heretofore known as the City Park, are the 
 grounds occupied by the Exposition, and were 
 noted only for a fine group of grand old live oaks 
 loaded with pendant moss — beautiful temptations 
 for many an artist's sketch book. In the north- 
 east end of the city, between Metarie Road and 
 Bayou bridge, another area of ground belonging 
 to the city contains a circular sign **City Park,'^ 
 but it is wholly given up to pasturage of cows and 
 goats, and shooting for sportsmen. 
 
 There are some pretty squares or places, the 
 most noted of which is Jackson Square. It was 
 called Place d' Arms until the erection of the 
 equestrian statue of General Andrew Jackson, 
 when it took his name. It is bounded by St. 
 Peter, St. Ann, Chartres and Decatur streets. 
 The Cathedral faces it, and all the notable gather- 
 ings of early days were at this place. The walks, 
 flowers, orange, magnolia, fig and other trees and 
 shrubs are well kept, and roses are found in 
 bloom there almost any month in winter. The 
 general's bronze steed is fiery, and his sword's 
 scabbard hangs with the convex side up ; but his 
 wrinkled forehead gives him a determined look, 
 intent upon promulgating the sentence which 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 51 
 
 Butler caused to be chiseled on the granite base, 
 
 July 4, 1862 : "The Union Must and Shall be 
 
 Preserved." 
 
 lafayette square, 
 
 A short distance above the St Charles Hotel,, 
 and between St. Charles and Camp Streets. It is 
 a very pretty spot and well shaded. In the be- 
 ginning of May, 1862, on the arrival of Butler's 
 transports, the Twelfth Connecticut Infantry 
 camped in it Here is a marble statue of Benjamin 
 Franklin, by Hiram Powers. The City Hall, 
 with its old Doric columns, fronts the square. It 
 contains the mayor's and various other municipal 
 offices, together with the city library. 
 
 MARGARET'S PLACE 
 
 is at the junction of Camp, Prytania and Clio 
 streets. Here is a small plat of ground devoted 
 to walks, fountains and grass. In the centre is 
 a marble statue of Margeret Haugery and a little 
 child. She was an elderly lady of great benev- 
 olence, the founder of an orphan asylum, and be- 
 loved by all who knew her. It is said this is a 
 perfect likeness of her as she used to sit in front 
 of her little cracker bakery, from whence grew a 
 large business and fortune. She was very fond of 
 children, and none ever went from her empty- 
 handed. 
 
52 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 COLISEUM PLACE, 
 
 on Coliseum Street, a few squares above. It con- 
 tains a breathing spot of walks and grass, bordered 
 with shade trees. 
 
 LEE PLACE, 
 
 The corner of St. Charles and Delord streets. 
 From a large mound in the centre arises a beauti- 
 ful column of marble as high as that of the mon- 
 ument on Boston Common, surmounted with a 
 bronze statue of General Robert E. Lee. This 
 statue was unveiled in the spring of 1884, and it 
 is a great credit to the city. 
 
 CONGO SQUARE, 
 
 corner of Orleans and Basin streets. It con- 
 sists of a park of about five acres. Here in the 
 "good old days" is where the bull fights were held, 
 and *'01d Creole days" thus describes a bull 
 fight audience : 
 
 "In the high upper seats of the rude amphithea- 
 tre, sat the gayly decked wives and daughters of 
 the Gascons, from the ^netaries along the ridge, 
 and the chattering Spanish women of the market, 
 their shining hair unbonneted to the sun. Next 
 below, were their husbands and lovers in Sunday 
 blouses, milkmen, butchers, bakers, black-bearded 
 fishermen, Siccilian fruiterers, swarthy Portuguese 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 53 
 
 sailors, in little woolen caps, and strangers of the 
 graver sort; mariners of England, Germany and 
 Holland. The lower seats were full of trappers, 
 smugglers, Canadian voyageiirs, drinking and sing- 
 ing; Americaifis, too — more's the shame — from 
 the upper rivers, who will not keep their seats, 
 who ply the bottle, and who will get home by- 
 and-by and tell how wicked Sodom is ; broad- 
 brimmed silver-braided Mexicans, too, with their 
 copper cheeks and bats' eyes, and their tinkling 
 spurred heels. Yonder in that quieter section 
 are the quadroon women in their black lace 
 shawls, and below them are the turbaned black 
 women." , 
 
 Orleans market and the parish prisons are near 
 Congo Square. The prisons are where General 
 Butler kept a few Confederate prisoners, and are 
 of quaint old-fashioned architecture. They are 
 also in close proximity to the fleet of oyster 
 smacks which can always be found in Old Basin. 
 
 THE MARKETS. 
 
 There are sixteen markets in the city, the most 
 noted of which is the old French Market. 
 
 It extends from St. Ann's to Ursulines streets, 
 and from St. Peter to Decatur. Take the horse- 
 cars from Canal, near the custom-house. Here 
 are gathered together the most conglomerate 
 
54 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 medley of productions to the manor born and im- 
 ported that can be found in these United States. 
 In the *'good old days" it was called ^^ Halle des 
 boucherfs,''^ and to-day these old stalls are presided 
 over by the Gascons, who cut rump steaks at a bit 
 a pound, and chop beef hash for you on the spot, 
 to order. The Gascons rule the meats, while the 
 Dagos^the Sicilians are nick-named Dagos, an 
 appellation as unpleasant to them as ''nigger" is 
 to a negro — control the fruits, and the jargon of 
 both, mingled with the language of the Creole, is 
 novel at least to the stranger. 
 
 Choctaw squaws with pappooses — ^just as pure 
 Choctaw as when La Salle first appeared here — 
 are squatted outside the buildings, surrounded 
 with a display of curious herbs for sale. Green 
 sweet bay leaves, also dried and powdered, sassa- 
 fras roots, gumbo for soups, pieces of palmetto 
 roots, for use as scrubbing brushes, together with 
 many herbs of this lattitude. 
 
 Here in winter may be seen a full assortment 
 of a northern spring market. Here are green 
 peas, string beans, lettuce and young beets. 
 Yams a half a yard long, long strings of garlic, 
 and chickens dressed with the tail feathers left in. 
 At the fruit stalls may be found Michigan apples 
 alongside of muscat grapes from Spain and Cal- 
 ifornia, with catawbas from Ohio Bananas, 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 55 
 
 pomegranates, plantains, oranges, mandarines and 
 limes, alligator pears from Jamaica, and Mexican 
 pina. 
 
 At the fish stalls we behold great tubs of moving 
 crabs and huge piles of shrimps in agony. Here 
 are jack fish, red fish, reel trout, blue fish, red 
 snapper, flounders, croakers and mullets. 
 
 At the flower stalls we encounter huge boquets 
 that would fill a peck measure, but no very great 
 assortment. 
 
 In other quarters of the market, dry goods and 
 various wares are kept in queer cramped places 
 with narrow passages, and here and there are de- 
 partments devoted to small lunch tables which are 
 well patronized. At these tables the famous 
 black coffee of the French Market is dispensed, 
 and may or may not deserve the credit which has 
 been given it. A seat at a table may assist in 
 determining the question. As in all other places 
 in the city, no coin less than a nickel is current. 
 
 RESTAURANTS. 
 
 The restaurants are so numerous, one can hardly 
 go amiss of them, and several may be tried before 
 an equilibrium is found where all is satisfactory. 
 Men with low incomes, live by thousands at the 
 cheaper restaurants; they will breakfast upon a 
 cup of coffee, with bread and butter, and pay ten 
 
56 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 cents for it. Twelve o'clock will find them in a 
 saloon before the lunch tables, being helped to a 
 dish of clam chowder, a slice of roast rump beef, 
 lettuce, radishes, bread and butter, cheese and 
 crackers washed down with a glass of claret, and 
 only ten or fifteen cents to pay. At six o'clock 
 they may perhaps afford a dinner with a glass of 
 wine, which may be had at the cheaper restaurants, 
 for fifty cents. And so they live, deprived of all 
 knowledge of the constituents of a home. 
 
 In addition to familiar soups you may have 
 offered you: shrimp gumbo, chicken gumbo, 
 crab gumbo or oyster gumbo. Among your en- 
 trees may be stewed veal a la Creole. In the 
 fish line : tenderloin trout, tarter ; sheeps 
 head, green trout, flounders or Spanish mack- 
 erel. For game, you may have mallards and 
 teal, snipe, grassit, quail, robins, wild turkey 
 or squirrel. The restaurants of Canal Street are 
 noted by northerners for their '' biscuit glace ^'' a 
 sort of frozen cream which is delicious. Occa- 
 sionally a restaurant keeper is noted also for exor- 
 bitant charges, and a daily paper has recently been 
 sued by one of them for publishing a statement 
 of such charges. 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 The oysters are mostly from the Gulf, and are 
 sold very reasonably. One may observe a sign 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 57 
 
 reading as follows : * ' Oysters from Bayou Cook, 
 both fresh and salt." A paradox meaning the 
 oysters are freshly taken from the water, and that 
 on account of no recent overflow or presence of 
 river water in the oyster beds, they possess the 
 desired flavor. During the fall months they are 
 not salt enough, but as cold weather appears, and 
 the rivers are lessened in volume, the beds be- 
 come more salt, and the oysters better. Via the 
 North Rampart Street cars to Old Basin, the ter- 
 minus of Carondelet's Canal, which leads to Bayou 
 St. John, through which vessels reach Lake 
 Ponchartrain, one may find a fleet of oyster 
 smacks, manned by as utterly an un-American 
 class of skippers as one would find in Sicily. No 
 English is spoken. Spaniards, Italians and a few 
 Creoles are here grouped upon the wharves, wait- 
 ing to dispose of their cargoes of oysters from Cat 
 Island, where Bienville first landed ; from Ship 
 Island, where General Butler first landed and sub- 
 sequently sent his Confederate prisoners ; from 
 Bayou St. Peter and neighboring bayous, at prices 
 fluctuating from seventy-five cents a bushel to 
 seventy-five cents a barrel, depending upon the 
 weather for fishing, and the demand. 
 
 SALOONS. 
 
 New Orleans is not behind its sister cities in its 
 
58 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 drinking saloons. The business men who do not 
 frequent them are in the minority. Their 7nenu of 
 drinks are composed of all the well known solids 
 together with the ornamental, in the shape of 
 spoon cocktails, nectarine, claret punches, seltzer 
 from-the-syphon, apolinaris water (with the priv- 
 ilege), and Santa Cruz rum. 
 
 A custom obtains here of advertising real estate 
 sales, instead of theatres, in the saloons. In the 
 more promment places, like that of the St. Charles 
 or the Produce Exchange, large colored plats of 
 properties for sale are suspended upon racks and 
 regularly renewed. 
 
 SUBURBAN PLACES. 
 
 CARROLLTON 
 
 is five miles from Canal Street and one mile 
 beyond the Exposition grounds. Take the horse- 
 cars, corner Canal and Baronne. The last two 
 miles of the distance is accomplished by the 
 queerest looking dummy engines in America. 
 They appear like cigar stubs on wheels. On 
 visiting Carrollton one has an opportunity of see- 
 ing with the eye what is so often discussed, the 
 relative position of the Mississippi to New^ Or- 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 59 
 
 leans. Standing upon the levee here and looking 
 down upon the spot where you stepped from the 
 horse-car, and then cast your eye upon the river, 
 at an ordinary stage of water, the river seems the 
 highest. One can readily see that with high 
 water at CarroUton, in the neighborhood of the 
 newly made levee, it would not require much 
 pressure to burst through, and, with rapidly in- 
 creasing volume, flood the city. 
 
 From the spot where you are now standing it is 
 four and a half miles in a direct line to the levee 
 at the head of Canal Street, while to follow the 
 bank around the crescent it is ten miles,, so that 
 including the distance to the United States Bar- 
 racks, three miles below Canal, the city has a fair- 
 ly active river frontage of thirteen miles. 
 
 A daily paper recently contained the following 
 editorial : 
 
 THE CARROLLTON LEVEE. 
 
 The work on the new levee in CarroUton is, with the number of 
 laborers now employed, rapidly progressing, and should the weather 
 continue favorable the contractor will complete the entire line in a 
 much shorter time than was anticipated. 
 
 When it is considered that last year during the high water season the 
 city was constantly threatened with overflow from that direction, and 
 that it was only by constant work send increasing watchfulness that the 
 old levee was held, the caves repaired and a catastrophe averted, that 
 the importance of the new embankment in the course of construction 
 can be understood. For many years past, the CarroUton Levee, where 
 in high water the current impinges against the banks with all its terri- 
 ble force, has been in a dangerous condition, and the entire attention 
 
6(5 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 of the authories constantly directed on that point. Its condition was 
 such that the engineers have expressed it as their opinion that it could 
 not stand another pressue such as the one that by constant labor and 
 at great cost it stood last year. The safety of the city depended upon 
 a perfect protection from that point, and immediate steps for future 
 protection were imperative. In consequence the Coimcil, feeling that 
 further delay might be the cause of a disastrous overflow next season, 
 decided upon the present location for the new levee which is being 
 constructed, and expropriated the property on the line, paying the 
 owners the assessment value on their houses, which offer met with no 
 opposition. With this levee of the dimensions fixed by the city sur 
 veyor. which is being rapidly pushed forward, the river will find at this 
 dangerous point a strong barrier against its waters, and the citizens of 
 New Orleans be relieved of all further apprehension of danger from 
 that section. 
 
 New Orleans guide books have given extrava- 
 gant mention to 
 
 CARROLLTON GARDENS 
 
 to the disappointment of many strangers. It is 
 simply a square of four acres of land, with shrub- 
 bery, flowers, dancing pavilion and restaurant, 
 close to the railroad terminus. There are other 
 private residences in the same locality with 
 grounds quite as extensive and better kept. 
 
 The route there gives one a knowledge of a 
 typical choice resident street of the city — St. 
 Charles Avenue, which is being paved, and at the 
 upper end has a shell road to Carrollton. North- 
 erners will observe with curiosity that the door 
 bells to residences are at the outer iron gates 
 which are kept locked. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 6l 
 
 JOCKEY CLUB HOUSE 
 
 and grounds, Esplanade Street, near Bayou St. John 
 bridge. Take the Bayou Bridge and Esplanade 
 cars at the car starter's station on Canal Street, 
 near the custom-house. Thence down Peters and 
 Decatur streets, near the extensive sugar sheds 
 and rice houses, on past the French Market, with 
 its odors of fruit, flowers, crabs and garlic. We 
 are now on the edge of the old French quarter, 
 and in passing the quaint, narrow streets of Conti, 
 St. Louis, Toulouse, St. Peter, St. Ann, Chartres 
 and many others, to Northern eyes interest and 
 curiosity is awakened. We here pass Jackson 
 Square, with its fine view of St. Louis Cathedral and 
 its venerable companions, the old Spanish cabildo 
 buildings. The route s'oon turns upon Esplanade 
 Street at the corner, where stands the United 
 States mint. Outwardly, in appearance, it looks 
 as if an appropriation would not be amiss. 
 
 Esplanade is a superior type of the city's resid- 
 ence streets. For nearly two miles shade trees 
 border closely the horse-car lines on the elevated 
 street centres, where there is no driving, while 
 either side of the tracks is paved for that purpose. 
 A good class of residences of the usual two bal- 
 cony fronts, or a veranda with each story, bor- 
 der the street, while here and there are residences 
 
62 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 with more extensive grounds, with orange trees, 
 large oleanders and native shrubs. Along this 
 thoroughfare, an opportunity here and there is 
 had of observing a wide ditch or canal at angles 
 with it. We soon reach Bayou Bridge, with the 
 black waters of Bayou St. John slightly moving 
 with the tide. Moored to the shores are numer- 
 ous yachts and row boats. It is three miles to 
 Lake Ponchartrain and Spanish Fort. Green 
 trout, perch and mullet are caught in its waters, 
 and the mullet keep the surface lively with 
 their frollickings Near at hand is St. Louis 
 Cemetery, No. 3, and adjoining it the Jockey 
 Club grounds. The house is elegantly fitted 
 up in all its appointments. The grounds are 
 filled with luxuriant foliage nearly hiding the 
 building from view. It has, as a club house and 
 grounds, a national reputation. Permission to 
 enter must be obtained from Mr. G. W. Nott, 
 secretary, 104 Canal Street. 
 
 THE NATIONAL CEMETERY 
 
 at Chalmette is so unlike the other cemeteries 
 of the city, which are described elsewhere, it is 
 deemed best to class it separately. It is situated 
 at Jackson's battle ground, and can be reached by 
 horse-cars as far as the United States Barracks, 
 from whence it is necessary to walk a mile. Take 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 63 
 
 the Barracks cars from Canal to Magazine and out 
 along the levee with various turns past the Ursu- 
 Hnes Convent and United States Barracks, where 
 are stationed a detachment of infantry and artillery. 
 The cemetery contains about fourteen acres, in 
 which are buried twelve thousand five hundred 
 Federal soldiers, its centre adorned by a handsome 
 monument. Nearly every State in the Union is 
 represented here by its dead. The extraordinary 
 care with which the grounds, flowers and shrub- 
 bery are kept reflect great credit upon the labors 
 of the three men there employed. There is a 
 good landing here, it being immediately upon the 
 river bank, to which boats may be run during the 
 Exposition. The Shell Beach railroad from Elys- 
 ian Fields and St. Claude Street also carry pas- 
 sengers to the rear of the cemetery, with far less 
 walking than by the horse cars. See time table 
 in this book. 
 
 WEST END. 
 
 For this point steam cars leave the corner of 
 Canal and Carondelet streets every half hour. It 
 is situated upon Lake Ponchartrain, six miles dis- 
 tant. A shell road also leads to it. Across the 
 placid sheet of water no land is in sight. A casino, 
 music stand, bathing houses and the usual appurt- 
 enances to a summer resort, together with yachts, 
 row-boats and boat club-houses, are at hand. A 
 
64 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 fine shell road tempts horseback and carriage 
 riding. Along the beach the walks are bordered 
 with fragrant violets, and roses bloom all the year. 
 During the summer open air concerts and theatri- 
 cal performances are given. 
 
 SPANISH FORT 
 
 situated on Lake Ponchartrain, seven miles dis- 
 tant. Steam cars start from Canal, corner of 
 Basin, fare fifteen cents for the round trip. The 
 old fort proper, is a raised earth work about eight 
 feet high, and faced with a brick wall. It is nearly 
 square. The remains of its armament consist of 
 two ancient cannon half buried in the earth. 
 Upon the earthwork is a large building in use as 
 a restaurant. Along the lake front piles are 
 driven, upon which the Casino, a large building 
 used for purposes of amusement, is built. Restau- 
 rants abound, together with flowers and shrubs. 
 A small enclosure contains a few large alligators. 
 
 MILNEBURG, 
 
 on Lake Ponchartrain, east of Spanish Fort. It 
 is the terminus of the Ponchartrain railroad and 
 is a resort similar to West End, but has not such 
 extensive improvements. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 65 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 Of these, the 
 
 GRAND OPERA HOUSE 
 
 on Canal, near corner Dauphine, is the most 
 prominent. In this building the most noted en- 
 gagements are made. It has a seating capacity 
 of eighteen hundred. 
 
 ST. CHARLES THEATRE, 
 
 No. 102 St. Charles Street, is also a leading 
 theatre, and has a seating capacity of three 
 thousand. 
 
 The Academy of Music 90 and 92 St. Charles 
 Street, is another under the same management as 
 the St. Charles. It seats twenty-two hundred. 
 
 THE FRENCH OPERA HOUSE, 
 
 an immense pile at the corner of Bourbon and 
 Toulouse streets. It was built in 1849. ^^ ^^s 
 architecture, it is entirely void of curves, and 
 composed of squares and angles piled up against 
 each other like a huge cathedral that required 
 centuries to build. It is quite in keeping with the 
 quaint Franco-Spanish edifices around it, but a 
 giant among them. It is the home of French 
 opera in New Orleans, and which, to inaugurate 
 each season, a large subscription list is necessary. 
 The following is a list for the season of 1884-85 : 
 
66 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 Exposition Season commencing February 2, and ending May 31, 
 1885. 
 
 SCALE OF PRICES. 
 
 Subscription. — 120 performances in the season. 
 
 PARQUET AND PREMIERES SEATS. 
 
 For all nights (120) in the season $120 00 
 
 For any four days in every week 68 00 
 
 For any three days in every week 51 00 
 
 For any two days in every week 34 00 
 
 For every Sunday (18) in the season 18 00 
 
 BOXES PREMIERES AND GRILLEES. 
 
 For any four days in every week $272 00 
 
 For any three days in every week 204 00 
 
 *For any two days in every week 136 00 
 
 For every Sunday (18) in the season 72 00 
 
 PARQUET BOXES — SIDE. 
 
 For any four days in every week $340 00 
 
 For any three days in every week 255 00 
 
 For any two days in every week 170 00 
 
 For every Sunday in the season 90 00 
 
 PROSCENIUM BOXES. 
 
 For any four days in every week . $408 00 
 
 For any three days in every week 306 00 
 
 For any two day in every week 204 00 
 
 For every Sunday in the season 108 00 
 
 FARANTl'S THEATRE. 
 
 Corner Bourbon and Orleans. A large corru- 
 gated iron structure amidst types of architecture of 
 the old Spanish days. It is a novelty which draws 
 largely from the dime museums, ten cents being 
 the price of admission. It will hold nearly four 
 thousand people. It has a parquet seating a 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 6/ 
 
 thousand, which can be turned into a ring for 
 circus performances. The parquet has tiers of 
 seats encircling it, and to occupy one and listen 
 to the conversation going on is to bring at once 
 Cable's 'Old Creole Days* dialect before you in 
 all its native purity. You are in the midst of 
 CvqoIq patois, neither French nor Spanish accent 
 but unlike, purely individual and distinct. The 
 theatre has a good stage, where fair performances 
 are given. Mazeppa is often placed here, and to 
 witness it is to remind one of the famous Adah 
 Isaacs Menken, a New Orleans beauty who 
 achieved prominence in eastern cities and in Paris, 
 in this play. 
 
 Robinson's dime museum. 
 
 Canal Street, below St. Charles, what you will 
 find in every city of a hundred thousand inhab- 
 itants, the usual dwarf, giant, skeleton, long- 
 haired lady, long haired-man, bearded lady, glass- 
 blower, extraordinary cow and Punch and Judy, 
 supplemented by a stage performance every hour. 
 "Please pass on gentlemen to the theatre below; 
 reserved opera chairs only one dime extra.*' 
 
 GRUNNEWALD HALL, 
 
 Baronne Street, seats one thousand, but has no 
 regular engagements. 
 
68 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 ROYAL MEXICAN AUTOMATON SHOW, 
 
 199 Canal Street. Pictures of Life in Mexico. 
 Admission ten cents. 
 
 BATTLE OF SEDAN, 
 
 opposite Magazine Street, entrance to Exposition. 
 Admission fifty cents. 
 
 BUFFALO bill's WILD WEST EXHIBITION, 
 
 at Oakland Park, afternoons only. Admission 
 fifty cents. Horse-cars from Canal and Carondelet. 
 
 LIBRARIES. 
 
 New Orleans has three public libraries. The 
 largest, that of the University of Louisiana, on 
 Common Street, near the corner of Dryades, con- 
 tains just one-tenth as many books as the Boston 
 Public Library, namely : forty thousand, that of 
 Boston having four hundred thousand. This li- 
 brary is open only from nine a. m. to three p. m. 
 
 FISK FREE LIBRARY. 
 
 This is just around the corner on Dryades 
 Street, from the entrance to the University library. 
 It contains five thousand seven hundred volumes. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 6g 
 
 and is open from nine a. m. to five p. m. The 
 other is 
 
 THE CITY LIBRARY, 
 
 located in the city hall, on Lafayette Square. It 
 contains sixteen thousand volumes, and is open 
 from nine a. m. to three p. m. This, as well as 
 both the others, are free to the public. In this 
 respect New Orleans is much better off than Rich- 
 mond, Virginia, which has no public libraries. 
 
 The Young Men's Christian Association also 
 have their library at their rooms, Nos. 13 and 
 15 Camp Street. 
 
 PROMINENT BUILDINGS. 
 
 THE UNITED STATES CUSTOM-HOUSE 
 
 stands first and last of the large structures of the 
 city. It fills the square bounded by Canal, Cus- 
 tom House, Decatur and Peters streets. It is 
 built of Maine granite, and is a monument of the 
 old style of architecture in government buildings 
 of the past. On the ground floor is situated the 
 post-office ; on the first floor above is the large 
 hail around which are arranged the desks of the 
 government clerks In this room, over the door 
 of the east entrance, is a bas relief of Bienville, 
 
70 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 the founder of New Orleans, his Spanish costume 
 in great contrast to that of Andrew Jackson along 
 side, in his high collared coat of 1815. The offices 
 of the United States government officials are 
 on the same floor. From the roof an excellent 
 view is obtained of the city and river. 
 
 UNITED STATES MINT. 
 
 Corner of Esplanade and Peters Street. It is 
 apparently much larger than the mint at Philadel- 
 phia. In front of this building, Wm. B. Mum- 
 ford was hung, June 7, 1862, for taking down from 
 the flag staff on the mint the United States flag 
 which Farragut had caused to be placed there. 
 
 ST. CHARLES HOTEL. 
 
 This was built in 1838 at a cost of $600,000, 
 It was burned in 1850 and restored in '52 and '53. 
 From the time of its erection to the present, it 
 has been the rendezvous for all important dis- 
 cussions, and the abode of all of our noted men 
 when visiting here. When Benjamin F. Butler 
 arrived in New Orleans it was closed, but he 
 ordered it to be opened for the accommodation of 
 himself and staff. In it were brought before him 
 the mayor and Common Council in arrest, and be- 
 fore him Senator Pierre Soule defended them. 
 Its massive granite columns — as large or larger 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 7 1 
 
 than those of the sub-treasury in Wall Street — sup- 
 porting its substantial cornice, make a facade 
 which modern architecture does not improve 
 upon. 
 
 Wm, Howard Russell, better known during 
 war times as *' Bull Run Russell," thus wrote of 
 the St. Charles, in his letter to the London Tmies, 
 May 24, 1861 : 
 
 In the course of the day, I went to the St. Charles Hotel, which is 
 an enormous establishment, of the American type, with a southern 
 character about it. A number of gentlemen were seated in the hall, 
 and in front of the office, with their legs up against the wall, and on 
 the backs of chairs, smoking, spitting, and reading the papers. Of- 
 ficers crowded the bar. The bustle and noise of the place would make 
 it anything but an agreeable residence for one fond of quiet ; but this 
 hotel is famous for its difficulties. Not the least disgraceful among 
 them, was the assault committed by somd of Walker's, filibusters upon 
 Captain Aldham of the Royal Navy, 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL 
 
 until recently known as the Hotel St. Louis. The 
 following is a recent description of it by the 
 Times Democrat: 
 
 The period from 1833 to 1837 marked one of the most important 
 building eras in the history of New Orleans. Banks, threatres, 
 hotels, markets, cotton presses and commercial edifices were rapidly 
 erected, costing four million five hundred thousand dollars, at which 
 time the population did not exceed one hundred thousand, mainly in 
 developing the portions lying between Poydras, Canal, St. Charles 
 Street and the river. But the more thickly-settled portion lying below 
 Canal Street, likewise, was being beautified by the erection of magni- 
 ficent civil and pubhc edifices, the most conspicuous of which was 
 
72 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 that which is now called Hotel Royal, then known as the City Ex- 
 change. This imposing structure was planned and erected by the 
 architect, M. J. N. DePouiliy. The money was suppHed by the 
 Improvement Bank, which was organized for the purpose of erecting 
 handsome buildings Its president was the Hon. Pierre Soule, and 
 its domicile is yet to be seen in that relic of ancient glory now stand- 
 ing on Toulouse Street, between Royal and Chartres. It was the 
 original intention of this company'to cover this square with elegant 
 buildings 
 
 The St. Louis Hotel extended three hundred feet, the entire length 
 of the block on St. Louis Street, and one hundred and twenty feet 
 each on Royal and Chartres streets. Its architecture is a composite 
 of Tuscan ana Done. Its principal entrance, opposite Exchange alley, 
 is ornamented with six marble columns. Originally, there was a vesti- 
 bule of one hundred and twenty-seven by forty feet, which was the 
 rendezvous for the public at large, and from this entrance was gained 
 to the magnificent rotunda, whose lofty dome admitted the hght 
 through rich stained glass. Beneath the glass on the side of the dome 
 were, and are still, paneled with frescoe paintings penciled with marvels 
 of skill by the celebrated Italian painters, Canova and Pinoli. These 
 paintings have been the admiration of thousands of visitors, and to- 
 day are as beautiful as when first executed. This rotunda was the 
 business centre of this city for many years. 
 
 Here merchants assembled on High Change from one to three p. M. 
 daily (Sundays excepted). And on Saturdays seven or eight French, 
 Spanish, Italian and English auctioneers were to be heard offering real 
 estate, stocks and bonds, and gang after gang of negroes. Here also 
 assembled the seconds in the affairs de honore, prior to accompanying 
 their principals to the ducHng grounds, which events were then of fre- 
 quent occurrence. 
 
 The Royal Street entrance is provided with one of the grandest 
 stairways of any southern edifice, and affords an easy ascent from the 
 marble pavement to the last upper floor. 
 
 This building was badly damaged by fire in 1840, but with commend- 
 able energy its originators reconstructed it, increasing its magnifi- 
 cence. Its upper floors were divided into large ball-rooms, parlors 
 and dining rooms, besides commodious apartments for guests. These 
 witnessed some of the most eventful scenes in the ante bellum days of 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 73 
 
 this city. On January 8, 1840, General Jackson was received in the 
 banquet hall by the committee of the Democratic party, who had 
 provided here elegant suites of rooms for his accommodation. Thither, 
 hour after hour, thousands of citizens came to pay their greetings to 
 their esteemed General. 
 
 In the winter of 1842 the Hon. Henry Clay was also handsomely 
 entertained here, in whose honor was given a ball, which was attended 
 by the elite of the city, and it is said the costumes of the ladies on 
 that occasion were the most magnificent that had ever appeared in this 
 city. A subscription banquet, costing twenty thousand dollars, was 
 also arranged in the grand dining hall in honor of Mr. Clay. 
 
 In 1844 the Hon. Martin Van Buren held a grand reception in the 
 dining hall of this noted building. There being no gas in these early 
 days, the various apartments were lighted with wax candles placed in 
 large crystal chandeliers and candelabras. This building continued 
 to be used by various persons as a hotel, until it was forced to close for 
 want of patronage during the war. 
 
 After the surrender it was re-opened for a sho?t time and again closed, 
 and finally the ownership was vested in the State and used for a State 
 House. Its grand rotunda, which had previously been floored over, 
 was now used as a Senate Chamber, and the former dining hall as the 
 House of Representatives. 
 
 On removal of the capital to Baton Rouge it was deserted and 
 rapidly deteriorated for want of care. During the last Legislature, 
 Messrs. Rivers & Bartell, the enterprising proprietors of the St. Charles 
 Hotel, obtained a fifteen years' lease of the property. 
 
 These gentlemen thoroughly refitted, furnished and opened it with a 
 grand ball in November, 1884. This and the St. Charles are the lead- 
 ing hotels in the city. Their terms are from four dollars a day up- 
 wards. 
 
 THE CITY HALL, 
 
 corner St. Charles and Lafayette, and fronting 
 Lafayette Square, also supports some handsome 
 Grecian-Doric columns. In it are the offices of 
 the mayor and other municipal officers. 
 
74 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 NEW MASONIC HALL, 
 
 on St. Charles, above Lee Place. It has a front- 
 age of one hundred and forty-seven feet by ninety- 
 two deep, with two wings eighty-four feet deep. 
 The Old Masonic Hall is on St. Charles, opposite 
 Commercial Place. 
 
 TULANE HALL 
 
 is located on the east side of Dryades Street, be- 
 tween Canal and Common. It is now occupied 
 by the academical department of the University 
 of Louisiana and the Fisk Library. 
 
 WASHINGTON ARTILLERY ARMORY, 
 
 on St Charles, between Julia and Girod. It be- 
 longs to the Washington Artillery, and in it, dur- 
 ing the carnival season, the receptions are given. 
 
 ODD fellows' HALL, 
 
 Lafayette Park. The lower floor is occupied by 
 that ancient military company, the Continental 
 Guards. Near it are 
 
 COURT BUILDINGS, 
 
 in which are located the Parish Criminal Court 
 and various parish offices. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 75 
 
 PICKWICK CLUB-HOUSE, 
 
 corner Canal and Carondelet streets. This is the 
 most imposing of modern structures in the city. 
 Its beautiful turretted corner and richly stained 
 oriel windows are in great contrast to its surround- 
 ings. Its large and elegant entrance is on Car- 
 ondelet Street, which Cable has introduced to so 
 many readers as containing Dr. Sevier's office. No. 
 3J^. An humble insurance company now occu- 
 pies it, at whose desks none know of the doctor. 
 The Illinois Central R. R. offices occupy the 
 Canal Street front, and are handsomly fitted up. 
 
 Just above the Pickwick, on Canal, is the 
 Louisiana Club-House, and near it, and above, is 
 the Boston Club-House, a fine old-style structure, 
 No. 148. 
 
 THE COTTON EXCHANGE, 
 
 corner of Carondelet and Gravier, a building hav- 
 ing a larger front than that of the New York 
 Stock Exchange, but not as large an interior. It 
 has a beautifully decorated exchange room, and a 
 life which the Produce and other exchanges have 
 not, from the larger attendance and volume of 
 bnsiness done. It has a membership of about six 
 hundred, but seldom has an excited market, the 
 fluctuations in cotton being so slight, therefore 
 the crowd doing business there seems small com- 
 
76 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. • 
 
 pared with the grain, oil and stock exchanges of 
 New York and Chicago. The brokers' cry of 
 "I'll give four for one June," means for futures, 
 that he will give — say cotton is between ten and 
 eleven cents — ten and four one hundredths of a 
 cent for one hundred bales, the smallest amount 
 dealt in. If spot cotton, the fractions are one 
 sixteenth of a cent a pound. Thousand bale lots 
 are the usual quantities recorded. With the ele- 
 vator one may go to the roof, from which a good 
 view of the city may be had. There are numer- 
 ous other exchanges detailed in this book, the 
 next most prominent being the 
 
 PRODUCE EXCHANGE, 
 
 which occupies new ^quarters on Banks' Arcade^ 
 It can also be entered at 44 Magazine Street. It 
 is very quiet here. There are samples of grain 
 and grocers' goods upon the tables, but the busi- 
 ness is done in a very leisurely manner. 
 
 THE MEXICAN EXCHANGE 
 
 occupies the quarters 124 Common Street, and is 
 organized for the purpose of fostering trade with 
 Mexican, Central and South American ports. A 
 great amount of the business which might pro- 
 perly be done at the exchanges, is transacted at 
 the clubs, of which there are a dozen in good 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 7/ 
 
 standing, of which the Commercial, Pickwick, 
 Boston, Louisiana and Jockey Clubs are the most 
 prominent. 
 
 NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 The Times- Democrat, No 58 Camp Street, owned 
 principally by Director-General E. A. Burke, and 
 The Picayioie, No. 66 Camp Street, owned by 
 Mrs. Nicholson, take the lead as English morning 
 papers, both having the press dispatches. 
 
 The Daily States, 90 Camp Street ; The Daily 
 City Item, 39 Natchez Street; Th.Q Eve?iing Chron- 
 icle, 23 Bank Place, and The Commercial Bulletin, 
 54 Magazine Street, occupy the field fully as to 
 numbers. Of these The States is the only one 
 having the press dispatches. The Bulletin is par- 
 tially owned by W. B. Merchant, the postmaster. 
 
 The L Abeille, 73 Chartres Street, is the French 
 daily, and has a large circulation, as well as the 
 Deutsche- Zeitimg, 108 Camp Street. 
 
 There are also the following weeklies : 
 
 The Mascot (illustrated), 6^ Camp Street; 
 Louisiana Sugar Bowl, no. 6 Camp Street. This 
 is devoted to the interest of planters. 
 
 Le Propagateur Catholique, corner Orleans and 
 Royal streets. 
 
 Morning Star (Catholic), 1 16 Poydras street. 
 
78 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 Algiers Advertiser, Villere, between Lavigne and 
 Bartholcmew streets. 
 
 The Christian Advocate, ii2 Camp Street. 
 
 Southwestern Christian Advocate, 32 Natchez 
 Street. 
 
 Southwestern Presbyterian, 94 Camp Street. 
 
 American Lumberman, 188 Gravier Street. 
 
 Also the following publications: 
 
 Der Kinder Freund (bi-weekly), 112 Camp 
 Street. 
 
 Medical and Surgical Journal (monthly), 19 
 Baronne Street. 
 
 Workman, 34 Magazine Street. 
 
 Evangelisch Lutherische Blatter, 5 Old Magazine 
 Street. 
 
 Gretna Courer, Gretna. 
 
 THE CEMETERIES. 
 
 It will not do to omit the cemeteries, they are 
 so unlike all other cemeteries of the country. 
 They are simply streets of tombs from ten to fif- 
 teen feet high and five to. ten feet in width. All 
 are scrupulously white, whether made of brick 
 and covered with cement and whitewashed, or of 
 marble. Water being so near the surface, no 
 bodies are placed beneath it, but all above. 
 
 In addition to family tombs there are tenament 
 blocks of tombs, four tiers or stories high, each 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. ^g 
 
 space receiving one casket, each block containing 
 fifty or more caskets, and numbered as houses are 
 numbered. 
 
 In many of the cemeteries the inscriptions upon 
 tombs are almost exclusively in French, and sen- 
 tences similar to the following meet the eye at 
 every turn: ''A mon cher epoux,'' ''Dieu seul 
 connait mes regrets," ''A iiotre pere.'' Here and 
 there may be seen the names of loved children in 
 groups belonging to one family, as : 
 
 LOUIS, 
 
 PHILIP, 
 
 EDOUARD, 
 
 ALPHONSE, 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 About these names and inscriptions are sus- 
 pended all manner of designs of flower pieces 
 made of beads, like hair-work, in purple, black or 
 white, together with metalic wreaths of flowers, 
 which to touch may alarm a small bright green or 
 brown lizard, and cause it to start from its hiding 
 place beneath, and display its proportions upon 
 the white marble. Newly made tombs are for 
 sale, as a card announces: *' Tombe a vendre s' 
 adrgsser au gardien dti Cimetiere St. Louis.'' 
 
 In October last, a card at one of the entrances 
 contained the following translation of the original 
 in French above it : 
 
 "Any persons that Wish to have there tooms 
 
So NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 Repare Fore Saint Day, Will please address to the 
 Sexton." 
 
 A wag has said that the song: "See that my 
 grave is kept green," does not apply to New Or- 
 leans ; but rather : see that my grave is kept white- 
 washed. When an interment takes place in a 
 tenement tomb, the mourners in carnages linger 
 while the casket is placed in the tomb, and 
 until the mason with trowel, mortar and brick, 
 quickly places a wall between it and the outer 
 world, and fastens with cement and screws the 
 marble slab that covers it. 
 
 ALL saints' day. 
 
 To see the cemeteries of New Orleans at their 
 best, is to visit them on All Saints' Day, Novem- 
 ber first. Early in the morning of that day the 
 flower stalls of the various markets are laden with 
 all sorts of made up flower-pieces and bouquets. 
 Ladies, children and servants are hurrying 
 through the streets, laden with huge bouquets 
 of dahlies, chrysanthemums, white daisies and 
 immortelles, full blush and crimson roses, 
 wreaths of green and purple artificial flowers, so 
 real as to deceive the ordinary observer ; wreaths 
 of mourning, and bead work of every conceivable 
 design. Laden with these, the crowds wend their 
 way to the cemeteries. It is a legal holiday At 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS fT IS. 8 1 
 
 noon the post office and custom-house close 
 their offices. The wholesale houses and general 
 merchants close their doors. The drayman turns 
 the ears of*his mules homeward with his right 
 hand, while his left carefully holds a huge bou- 
 quet for the adornment of the graves of his dear 
 departed. 
 
 In the morning of that day, after high mass at 
 the cathedral, the clergy march in procession to 
 the cemeteries belonging to it and sing the 
 Libera. Long before that hour the grounds are 
 thronged with ladies, children and servants, all 
 busy workers in adorning the houses of the dead. 
 Servants are scouring and polishing the marble ; 
 ladies are directing and arranging the disposition of 
 the flowers, richly dressed children are darting here 
 and there with merry voices. The long rows of 
 straight whitewashed trunks of magnolia trees, 
 stand like so many Corinthian pillars, supporting 
 the canopy of green waxy foliage, and roofing 
 completely the white shelled roads beneath, 
 where, moving in dignified procession, are beauti- 
 ful and stately mothers, followed by their children, 
 and these by neatly dressed servants, holding aloft 
 exquisite floral offerings for the sacred shrines. 
 
 Fresh white sand is sprinkled over earth where 
 the grass has not arisen, and from it protrudes 
 fresh pots of flowers. In the streets of tenement 
 
82 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 tombs, groups of people are industriously work- 
 ing, cleaning, polishing and adorning the limited 
 spot of marble each possesses. Against tomb 
 fronts, huge masses of dahlias and inamortelles are 
 tastefully piled. Banks of bright green glossy 
 palms are handsomely grouped against the 
 white marble, relieved here and there by baskets 
 of full fragrant roses at the doors of tombs. 
 
 On this November day, when throughout the 
 North the leaves of the chestnut, maple, and elm 
 have fallen, and those of the oak are dried and 
 brown ; in New England, when the withered grass 
 and leaves are coated with a white frost, and the 
 sharp ice crystals are fringing the edges of the 
 ponds, full blush and crimson roses are here dif- 
 fusing their fragrance and showering their petals 
 over the borders of the walks. 
 
 It is All Saints' Day; a day of days at Pry- 
 tania Cemetery ; a bright holy day and holiday, 
 when children, birds, foliage, and flowers combine 
 to link all that is beautiful on earth with the mem- 
 ory of those we love in heaven. 
 
 At noon this labor of love ceases, ^and during 
 the afternoon the throngs come and go until dark. 
 
 Of the small cemeteries, the Prytania or Wash- 
 ington Street Cemetery is one of the best kept. 
 It is not exclusive in its denomination, and con- 
 tains many aristocratic tombs. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 83 
 
 The approaches to the cemeteries are lined with 
 flower, fruit and refreshment stands, and near the 
 gates inside, here and there, seated -before a small 
 white table, one will see a pleasant-faced nun re- 
 ceiving in a silver plate, money gifts for some 
 named asylum, as Mt. Carmel Female Orphan 
 Asylum, St. Joseph's Orphan Asylum, etc. 
 
 St. Louis Cemetery, No. I, corner St. Louis 
 and Conti streets, is the oldest in the city, and 
 contains the names of many of the early promi*- 
 nent families, such as Claiborne, Mandcville, Marig- 
 ney, Tanneret, Rosseau, Rocquet, Denis, Garcia. 
 Here are tombs of Spanish, Portuguese, Italian 
 and French societies. It is noticeable as being the 
 oldest, but it is very much crowded and not as 
 well kept as many other cemeteries. On All 
 Saints' days artificial muslin and paper flowers 
 prevail here, together with decorations of beads. 
 The air on that day resounds with the rapping of 
 sticks upon the silver plates on the tables to call 
 the visitor's attention to the charity it represents, 
 and is filled with the medley of French, Spanish 
 and Italian voices. Before some tombs candles 
 are burning and postulants kneeling. A few aged 
 negro women, with rosaries in hand, may be 
 heard ejaculating their prayers in French. 
 
 The larger portion of the population on All 
 Saints' Day make Greenwood, Metarie Road and 
 
84 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 St, Patrick cemeteries — which are all grouped 
 together at Canal and Metarie Road — the objective 
 point. At the canal bridge, near the entrance to 
 Metarie Road Cemetery, the crowd becomes a 
 jam. The Ponchartrain railway carries the people 
 by thousands. The streets approaching the gates 
 are like a Parisian fete day, lined as they are with 
 fruit, flower and refreshment stands, whose ven- 
 ders are exceedingly demonstrative. A constant 
 line of carriages are crossing and recrossing the 
 bridge over the canal, which leads to Lake Pon- 
 chartrain. Two large refreshment houses are near 
 by, and they are thronged with people. Across 
 the road is Greenwood Cemetery, its most notice- 
 able features being its shade and the Confederate 
 monument which is near the entrance. Its streets 
 of tombs are named after the flowers, such as 
 Myrtle Avenue, Violet Avenue, Acacia Avenue, 
 etc., etc. It is well kept. The Metarie is the 
 largest and most modern in the city. Its entrance 
 is but a few rods from that of Greenwood, just 
 across the canal bridge. As you enter, orange- 
 laden trees, bordering its shell-paved entrance- 
 driveway, gr^et you ; to the right is the tomb of 
 the Louisiana Division of the Confederate Army 
 of Tennessee, in which is a tablet to the memory 
 of General Albert Sydney Johnson. His statue 
 is to surmount it, and the statue of a Confederate 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 85 
 
 soldier is to guard the entrance. To the left is a 
 large public receiving vault. Then follows an 
 avenue of beautiful tombs, from which other ave- 
 nues diverge over a large space. The tombs are 
 more modern in their construction; the walks 
 and drives of shell pavement are laid in curves, 
 while the others are in angles ; it is more spacious, 
 more American. It contains some beautiful works 
 of cemetery architecture and sculpture. 
 
 The Washington Artillery have a fine monu- 
 ment, commemorating its battles and names of its 
 dead, with a statue of a Confederate soldier sur- 
 mounting it. The Louisiana division of the Army 
 of Northern Virginia also have a tomb and shaft, 
 surmounted by a statue of Stonewall Jackson. 
 The head of the statue is covered with a soldier's 
 cap, which does not seem quite appropriate, and 
 it suffers somewhat in comparison with the statue 
 of Jackson in the State House Park in Richmond. 
 
 The Knights of Pythias have a handsome en- 
 closure for their dead. The Morris tomb is a 
 granite structure standing in the interior of a church 
 of Ivy, with circular front windows, side windows 
 and transept. This is very pretty. The frame is 
 of light iron work, but so covered inside and out 
 with ivy as to be hidden from view. Adjoining it 
 stands a beautiful and venerable live oak, whose 
 
86 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 immense trunk and moss-laden branches are 
 worthy of observation. 
 
 ''Remember St. Mary's Orphan Asylum'' said 
 a small placard, last All Saints' Day, before a 
 white table in front of the large tomb of the 
 Pelican Benevolent Society. Beside the table sat 
 two kind hearted Sisters, flanked by eight little 
 orphan boys, about six years of age. Along^ 
 came a gentleman with servant carrying baskets. 
 
 "Good evening, good Sisters," said the gentle- 
 man, in French, "How are my Httle boys to- 
 day?" as he droped some silver coin into the 
 plate — sterling silver rem.embrance of the Orphans 
 of St. Mary's — and now the Sisters must be 
 hungry, and little Leon, Francois and Philip must 
 be hungry too, and so napkins are spread, and 
 there upon the green grass, the gentleman seated 
 his little group and caused a delicious lunch to be 
 spread, when he sat down and gaily chattered with 
 the Sisters, and helped the little orphan boys to a 
 good square meal and packages of bon-bons for 
 themselves and their playmates at the asylum. 
 There was happiness enough in that group to 
 bring tears to at least one looker on, as it illus- 
 trated what inspiration the Day of All Saints may 
 give when rightly spent. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 8/ 
 
 THE LEVEE. 
 
 The levee at the head of Canal Street is always 
 full of interest to the visitor. From the stone 
 pavement at the head of the street, up to the 
 plank docks, it is laid with shells. Here may 
 be seen great blocks of cotton bales, each marked 
 by the small various colored flags of the owners 
 or factors ; and as the bales are received from 
 the steamboat, are thus checked off by their marks 
 and placed in their proper blocks. 
 
 Visit this spot on the arrival of a two thousand 
 ton steamboat like the Bayou Sara. See the 
 crowds of black stevedores on shore, watching the 
 gang-plank to get the eye of the mate for a job. 
 Watch the queer sort of deck or steerage passen- 
 gers which come ashore. See the stevedores 
 scrutinize them. Here comes a verdant up-river 
 darkey from the cane brake, with eyes bulging out 
 at the scene before him. ** Hello dar," from a 
 stevedore spokesman, *'whar yer cum frum? 
 whar's you fodder? you'd better git back 'hind 
 der biler, no work fur you here ! " 
 
 Here comes a poor white nondescript, with 
 dull, leaden countenance, eyes half closed, his 
 rags are stiff with filth and the color of his skin. 
 His baggage consists of an old box, with 
 slats nailed across it, and contains a piece of filthy 
 
88 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 sacking. As he passes down the plank, a negro 
 ejaculates : ' * Good lawd ! de snakes all dead war 
 you cum frum ?" He takes him for a snake killer 
 — by reason of his box — whose occupation is gone; 
 and so this class of live freight, together with 
 whole families of negroes and little pickaninnies, 
 are discharged. 
 
 The cabin passengers are taken away, and a 
 long line of trucks are started to move six thou- 
 sand or more bales of the great staple. The levee 
 is strewn with fragments of cotton and cotton 
 seed. The view from the deck of the steamboat 
 gives one an idea of the Father of Waters a hun- 
 dred miles from its mouth. It is, at this point, 
 from a hundred to two hundred and eight feet 
 deep. Across on the opposite shore is the town 
 of Algiers, with a population of ten thousand, 
 to which ferry boats are plying. Walk a short 
 distance down this levee and see the acres of casks 
 of sugar, molasses and rice, labelled with the 
 names of the plantations from whence they came, 
 and as you walk upon the plank pavement the 
 grains of sugar, grate upon the ear like sand. See 
 the huge piles of merchandise on the levee to be 
 sent to the plantations in return payment. 
 
 THE WHARVES. 
 
 No stranger should visit New Orleans without 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 89 
 
 acquainting himself partially with the extent of 
 the direct traffic with foreign countries. 
 
 Take a Tchoupitoulas horse-car as far as Sixth 
 Street and walk down the river along the wharves, 
 where may be encountered a greater variety of 
 marine architecture than any city in our land — 
 save New York. In addition to the Atlantic 
 coast vessels, among which Boston and New 
 York are largely represented, together with those 
 of South American ports, may be seen black, 
 rakish iron hulls, some of them drawing twenty- 
 five feet of water, from Liverpool, Leith, Bath, 
 Aberdeen, Glasgow, New Castle, London, Havre, 
 Bremen, Hamburg, all busily loading with cotton, 
 (during the autumn months when the cotton ship- 
 ment is at its height) oil-meal, rice, sugar, 
 molasses and staves. Here are vessels from Cen- 
 tral and South America and the West Indies, with 
 whole cargoes of fruit, and sometimes these car- 
 goes are shipped entire to Chicago in the same 
 cars of the Illinois Central Railroad which 
 brought from that city grain, soap, starch and the 
 yellow canvass hams of Mr. Armour, together 
 with car loads of full, round, hard cabbages from 
 the fields of lUinois. To walk the length of 
 these wharves amidst acres and acres of com- 
 pressed cotton bales on the one hand, and a river 
 lined with masts upon the other, with flags of 
 
90 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 many nations floating among the rigging ; to lis- 
 ten to the medley of Yorkshire and Gaelic, 
 French, Italian, German and Spanish among the 
 crews and the striking of the bells ; to see the 
 clear cut stems and rounded iron sterns of the 
 Clyde built steamers ; and the old fashioned 
 square sterns and elaborate figure heads of some 
 of the old New England or Boston luggers ; to 
 snuff the air laden with odors of rosin, tarred 
 rope and ship's smells; to be among all this is a 
 novelty to a landsman from the interior, and full 
 of interest. 
 
 The time is approaching when instead of bal- 
 last, these foreign vessels are coming better laden 
 with imports to be distributed from New Orleans, 
 more thoroughly over the New South. 
 
 COTTON PRESSES. 
 
 A large tract of territory reached oy the Tchou- 
 pitoulas horse-cars and in the vicinity of the for- 
 eign wharves, is devoted to immense brick store- 
 houses, each with its huge press that receives a bale 
 of cotton as it comes from the plantation and river 
 steamboats, and with one breath of the powerful 
 engines reduces its size to one-third its original 
 bulk, when its ties are quickly re-adjusted and it 
 goes to the iron hulks of Liverpool and elsewhere 
 near at hand. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 9I 
 
 THE ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL 
 
 fronts Jackson Square. Bienville located its site, 
 also that of the presbytery. It was called the 
 Church of St. Ignatius in 1720. A tornado swept 
 the town subsequently and destroyed the building 
 with many others. In 1725 a brick church was 
 erected, which was destroyed by the great fire of 
 1788. In 1794 Don Andres Almonaster-y-Roxas 
 built the present cathedral, also the buildings now 
 standing upon each side of it, the latter under a 
 contract with the Spanish government. The one 
 on the right was used for the sessions of the 
 cabildo, and that on the left for a presbytery. In 
 1850 the tower of the cathedral fell, injuring the 
 walls, at which time it was altered and enlarged. 
 
 Don Almonaster died in 1798. His tomb is in 
 the cathedral, in front of the Altar of the Sacred 
 Heart, where can be seen his coat of arms and the 
 following inscription : 
 
 A pesar de totos 
 Vercetemos a los Godos. 
 ^*In spite of all 
 We will conquer the Goths.** 
 
 Beneath the marble in front of the Altar of 
 Notre Dame de Lourdes, and opposite the spot 
 where Hes the body of Almonaster, lie also the re- 
 
92 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 mains of three ancient cavaliers, one the founder 
 of the old families of Marigney and Mandeville. 
 The old buildings flanking the cathedral are very- 
 interesting ; their arches, courts and old Moorish 
 walls almost speak Spanish to the observer. The 
 roofs are French additions, but the walls and in- 
 teriors are as occupied by the Spaniards. They 
 are now occupied, the one on the right, where the 
 sessions of the cabildo were held, by the Supreme 
 Court, and contains as before stated, the portrait 
 of the late Judah P. Benjamin, General Grimes,' 
 and busts of Senator Pierre Soule and Chief Jus- 
 tice Marshall. The other building is occupied by* 
 the sheriff and Civil District Court. In the dark 
 recesses of these Moorish arches, on a late visit, 
 was found an article of the same identity as that 
 found by a traveller last year at Arethusa's Fount 
 on the island of Cyprus — a Standard Oil Com-^ 
 pany's tin can. 
 
 Almonaster left a daughter, the Baroness Pon- 
 talba, who inherited the land on St. Peter and St.' 
 Ann streets, facing the square, and which Count 
 O'Reilley granted to the town in the king's name^ 
 She died in Paris, in 1874, leaving three sons. 
 
 Every Saturday evening masses are offered for 
 the repose of the soul of Don Andres Almonaster- 
 y-Roxas, and at sunset of that day the tolling 
 bell recalls his memory. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 93. 
 
 THE PARROCCHIA ITALIANA, 
 
 a queer old church, formerly used by the Jesuits, 
 is situated at the corner of Conti and Rampart 
 streets, and is worth a visit. 
 
 THE RUE ROYALE. 
 
 It was very picturesque, the Rue Royale. The rich and poor met 
 together. The locksmith's swinging key creaked next door to the 
 bank ; across the way, crouching mendicant Hke in the shadow of a 
 great importing house, was the mud laboratory of the mender of broken 
 combs. Light balconies overhung the rows of showy shops and stores 
 open for trade this Sunday morning, and pretty Latin faces of the 
 higher class glanced over their savagely-pronged railings upon the 
 passers below. At some windows hung lace curtains, flannel duds at 
 some, and at others only the scraping and sighing one-hinged shutter, 
 groaning and sighing towards Paris after its neglectful master. — 
 Posson Jont. 
 
 That was sixty years ago. 
 
 NOW. 
 
 It is night, in October days, and the Rue Royale 
 is brilliant with all the appliances of the Brush 
 system of electric lighting. The narrow sidewalks 
 are filled with moving figures of men of all clases, 
 attracted hither like the moths around the bril- 
 liant Boulton carbons. From a long distance up 
 the street, led by a band of music, comes with 
 rapid tread over the pavement of broad stones, a 
 procession of a hundred or more members of some 
 
94 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 society or club. The air is resonant with music 
 and human voices, a medley unaccompanied by 
 the roar of wheels. Occasionally an open bar- 
 ouche appears, with a lady or two, with bare heads, 
 and lace shawls, accompanied by an escort ; ap- 
 parently observers of the scene. As the varnished 
 doors of restaurants, saloons, gaming houses and 
 concert halls, swing upon their hinges, there are 
 breathings outward of volumes of discordant 
 sounds of human voices, mingled with the clash- 
 ing of glasses and orchestral music. As these are 
 passed, from the open windows of the stories 
 above, are heard the shrill tones of the checking 
 clerks, calling: ^' one sixty-seven,'' ''one eighty -four, '^ 
 ^^ twenty- one,' ^ ''seventy-eight," in quick, clear suc- 
 cession. That is keno ! 
 
 On we go, passing the tall Doric columns of the 
 old Union Bank with its classic facade ; encount- 
 ering huge piles of oysters banked up against the 
 walls of entrances to restaurants ; again varnished 
 doors swing to and fro, and broken volumes of 
 uncultivated soprano voices, essaying solos, belch 
 forth upon the summer air, while timid crowds 
 of men stand upon the curbstones to catch a 
 glimpse of female limbs draped in gauze of pink 
 or blue ; men who have no money to spend 
 inside, or whose consciences are not yet 
 toughened. But as the orchestral music is thrown 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 95 
 
 out Upon the pleasant air, the wonder worshipper 
 is naturally drawn inside, perhaps to his sorrow, 
 or perhaps with the satisfaction of a better knowl- 
 edge of how some parts of the world move. He 
 is in one of the Tivolis or concert halls of the 
 street, where, arrayed in scant garments, but 
 gorgeous in combinations of color, are young and 
 middle aged ; youthful and fresh, together with 
 wearied and worn, whited sepulcheres ; watching 
 among the throng which enter, those whom their 
 judgment dictates have money to spend or throw 
 away upon them in remuneration for a display of 
 their utter unconsciousness of virtue. 
 
 The music keeps pace with peals of laughter ; 
 glasses clink. Old roues jest and pat the cheeks 
 of young girls ; young and inexperienced youths 
 sit at the tables sipping wine, conscious of their 
 very basfulness or out-of-place modesty. A police- 
 man occasionally enters and looks passively on as 
 the night passes. 
 
 The female habitues of these palaces are not 
 always natives. The north is drawn upon from 
 New York to Chicago, and from whence repre- 
 sentatives may be found. But let us leave these 
 halls of "wine, women and song;" let us go up 
 some of these brass-mounted stairways from 
 whence come the cries of: "0-n-e s-e-v-e-n-t-y 
 s-i-x," *' t-hi-r-t-y f-o-ur;" let us visit 
 
96 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 *THE SENATE, 
 
 a large elegantly appointed room like an exchange. 
 But the brokers, the bulls and bears, they do not 
 stand upon their feet ; they sit down. Neither do 
 they shout. They are all silent — a hundred or 
 more — silently gazing upon the small boards upon 
 the tables beneath their eyes, while each index 
 finger moves the button upon the spot covered 
 by the figures as they are lustily called out (and 
 which we heard upon the street below so often) 
 by the one who sits upon the throne in the 
 speaker's chair of this ''senate," and swings his 
 Satanic majesty's censor, better known as the 
 ** goose," and at each swinging he presses upon a 
 spring and out drops the ball upon which is the 
 number called. Here in this large room filled 
 with tables sit the devotees, while conversation is 
 hushed. Occasionally a rap is heard upon a table; 
 an attendant appears, notes the number of the 
 board, and calls ''Keno!" The man who gave 
 the rap has won. The other ninety and nine have 
 lost. 
 
 Is it very different outside ? In any or all the 
 bucket shops, stock, grain or oil exchanges of the 
 land ? Is not the principle more quickly and bet- 
 ter illustrated herein ? 
 
 Large squares of combinations of figures hang 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS FT IS. 9/ 
 
 upon the walls, while the ever changing figures of 
 the keno register move as automatically as those 
 of the members' numbers at the New York Stock 
 Exchange. 
 
 In large alcoves with arched ceilings are sus- 
 pended neat gilt sign-boards with : ''Rouge et 
 noir" here, ''Roulette" there, at th^t end, 
 "Grand Hazard" here, "Twenty-one" there, 
 beneath which are the tables indicated by the sign- 
 boards, and each surrounded by a group of men 
 actively staking their ivory chips — men of all 
 classes, young and old, richly dressed and some 
 even barefooted, all anxious to receive their por- 
 tion of fortune's bestowals. 
 
 Other gilt signs upon the walls inform us that; 
 
 " This game is open day and nights 
 " Please report irregularities^ 
 ' ' Please see that your cards are pegged.'' 
 ^'A keno made on a board not pegged will not be paid.'' 
 
 Other archways, under which are suspended the 
 signs "Poker," lead into adjoining rooms, where 
 are still other signs, stating that such and such tables 
 are for "Draw Poker." These tables of eight 
 persons, besides the banker and the dealer, are 
 watched by lookers-on with keen interest, and as 
 one player, more lucky than the others, increases 
 his pile of ivory chips, bills and specie, congratu- 
 
98 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 latory hand-shakes are offered him, while the 
 silent one, who, at the other end of the table, has 
 been staking the largest and losing heavily, is not 
 noticed. 
 
 The god of success is worshipped, while no 
 sympathy is shown the unfortunate one. Is this 
 very different outside in the world ? 
 
 Have you missed something — ye lovers of the 
 gaming tables who read this ? But you can have 
 it ! The Rue Royale can supply you with every 
 convenience your yearnings crave. Directly 
 across the street, up any of these brass mounted 
 or golden stairs, that row of windows, second story ; 
 there you will find a "strong house," and Faro 
 the king. 
 
 It is free ! free to all as water, without any show 
 or thought of suppression, and the proprietors^ 
 whose fifteen per cent, yield the city large sums^ 
 have as excellent franchises as they who sell flour, 
 bacon or cotton. 
 
 AN AGED DATE PALM. 
 
 In addition to what can possibly be described 
 within the limits of this volume, there is much 
 else which an observant eye will appreciate. In 
 lot No, 53, Orleans Street, near the corner 
 of Dauphine, stands a living monument of the 
 past, which for more than a hundred years has been 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 99 
 
 the wonder of the inhabitants, and a hundred years 
 ago the oldest inhabitant knew not the time when 
 it was not an antiquarian. It is a native of the 
 East Indies or Africa. It is claimed that its like 
 does not exist in the State, and never has ; but 
 there are similar species in various parts of the 
 city, and one fine one in the yard of Mr. Litch- 
 field, on Rampart near Canal. However, this date 
 palm is certainly the oldest, and towers fifty or 
 sixty feet above high piles of wood, and is sur- 
 rounded by humble barracks, in which both cattle 
 and people reside. Its knarled and thick bark 
 envelopes it for fifteen feet. Its diameter at the 
 base is two feet. Its single stem rises forty feet 
 higher, and from its top twenty or more long 
 palm leaves wave above the low housetops. It 
 bears huge blossoms, but no fruit. 
 
 This tree was as great a wonder to the early 
 settlers as to the citizens of to-day. What a his- 
 torian, could it speak ! The botanist, De Can- 
 doUe says these palms live to the age of six hun- 
 dred and seven hundred years. It is but two 
 squares behind the cathedral. Sit here upon the 
 wooden steps of the low adobe covered dwelling, 
 and look about you. Listen to the Creole patois. 
 It will not be difficult to imagine yourself out of 
 the United States. The New Englander who loves 
 these things, will find antique studies in architec- 
 
100 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 ture in this quarter, go in whatever direction he 
 may. At the corner of Orleans, opposite the 
 garden at the rear of the cathedral, a sign an- 
 nounces the following : 
 
 Librarie de la famille. 
 
 Articles religieux. 
 
 Ornements W e glise. 
 
 Chasaublerie. 
 
 Livres classiques. 
 
 Articles de Fantaisie. 
 
 Go inside, near the approach of All Saints' 
 Day, and see the great and endless variety of tomb 
 ornaments displayed, the wax and paper flowers, 
 enormous fancy wax candles, etc. 
 
 The old dwelling in square 75, Rue de Orleans 
 and Bourbon, opposite Faranti's theatre, will il- 
 lustrate Cable's 'Old Creole Days' residences. 
 Visit the old row of buildings on Chartres, for- 
 merly occupied by the Ursulines. Go into the 
 queer old courts, and see how they are arranged 
 for dwellings, and ask if you are not in Jerusalem. 
 
 If a balcony study is desired, visit the corner of 
 St. Peters and Royal, or stand at the entrance to 
 the Hotel Royal, and look down the length of the 
 narrow court called Exchange Place. Seethe long 
 rows of balconies upon either side, and the Bridge 
 of Sighs that spans it. 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. lOI 
 
 For typv^o of the old Franco-Spanish residences, 
 with the tile roofs of Carondelet's time, see Nos. 
 219 and 221 Rue Royale. This is beyond all the 
 Washington headquarters in the country. At the 
 corner of Ursulines and Chartres, opposite the 
 archbishop's house, is another ; also at Dauphine 
 and St. Philip, two stories and a gallery. 
 Cable thus pictures one of 'these dwellings: 
 ''Number nineteen is the right-hand half of a 
 single-story, low-roofed tenament, washed with 
 yellow ochre, which it shares" generously with 
 whoever leans against it." 
 
 Visit No. 139 Royal. Note the relief afforded 
 by the interior of this court filled with flowers and 
 shrubbery — relief from the dinginess surrounding 
 the entrance. From the Hotel Royal, take an 
 hour's walk up Royal Street and vicinity. Note 
 the strange visions that greet you through the 
 many half opened entrances to Moorish arched 
 courts beyond. In many of these dwellings the 
 old patterns of half-circle windows, barred with 
 iron, surmount the doors. 
 
 On Toulouse, just back of the Hotel Royal, 
 sombre and sad, stand the ruins of the Old Citi- 
 zen's Bank building, whose one hundred and sixty 
 kegs of five thousand Mexican dollars each, 
 together with bank note plates and Confederate 
 Bond plates, while under the protection of the 
 
\ 
 
 I02 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 Consul of the Netherlands, General Butler con 
 fiscated. 
 
 At 176 Canal, our youths will be reminded of 
 Audubon, who was born in New Orleans. Here 
 are stuffed birds and plenty of young stuffed alli- 
 gators, in all stages of exit from the shell together 
 with stuffed armadilloes. A desire to ascertain 
 how oranges are packed and shipped, may be 
 gratified by visiting the vicinity of the corner of 
 Gravier and St. Peter's streets. 
 
 General G. T. Beauregard, at present Adjutant 
 General of State, is a resident, whose home is at 
 No. 355 St. Charles Street. He has an office in 
 St. Louis Hospital building. 
 
 LUMBER. 
 
 It you are curious to ascertain 'how the city is 
 supplied with lumber, take the South Rampart 
 Street cars to the corner of Julia Street, at the 
 head of the basin or canal which leads to lake 
 Ponchartrain. 
 
 Here are huge piles of staves, wood, brick, 
 white sand and lumber. But there is no stock of 
 seasoned lumber kept on hand as in northern gities. 
 It is mostly sold before it is brought by the 
 schooners from the lake and it tributaries. A tug 
 will tow ten or twelve of these lumber schooners. 
 Here are also lying at the wharf, huge black 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. IO3 
 
 barges covered with black cloth. Loaded as they 
 are with charcoal, they look like immense funeral 
 floats. 
 
 OLD BOOK STORES. 
 
 The old book stores to be found in the French 
 quarter will serve as a treasure trove to many a 
 visitor who loves these things. Presided over by 
 decrepit old men or women, may be found old 
 copies of Bossuet, Moliere, Racine, together with 
 many curiosities in literature — the contents of 
 private libraries of many old families of the city. 
 
 ** GALLERY ROOMS." 
 
 In the ancient dwellings of the city, as well as 
 in many of the modern, the upper halls are on 
 the outside of the house, forming the balconies 
 upon wings and rear, upon which the doors and 
 windows open. These rooms are called ** gallery 
 rooms," and when fronting pleasantly are very con- 
 venient, but when in the rear, and the sunlight is 
 obstructed' by brick walls, they are not so desira- 
 ble. In the more ancient houses a huge fire-place 
 almost invariably adorns every gallery room, 
 together with the inevitable old-fashioned four-post 
 bedstead, with a plaited roof of crimson cloth 
 gathered at the centre, adorned with a centre piece 
 of brass, and the whole enveloped in the folds of 
 the very necessary mosquito bar. 
 
I04 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 When investigating the "chambres garnie?' a lour'* 
 of the French quarter it is well to consider light 
 and ventilation. ''Does the room look into the 
 street?" And the reply often will be: ^' Non 
 monsieur y elk donne sur le Jarden ; "and the garden 
 will doubtless be the court, paved with flat stones, 
 with a spot of earth here and there, from which 
 rises a sturdy palm, Spanish bayonet, fig, pome- 
 granite or orange tree. ''Is the apartment fur- 
 nished?" Madame will assure you that it is, and 
 that ^^ y a tout ce qui est necessaire ; et que V ameu- 
 blernent en est fort beau,'' and that ^'tous les meubles 
 sont d' acajou." All this may prove true, and 
 the lodger secure very neat apartments,where the 
 furniture is all mahogony, and so ancient that a 
 Boston dealer would look upon it with envy. On 
 the other hand, as is often the case, the furniture 
 may be wretched, and hired from a second-hand 
 dealer for the occasion. 
 
 GENERAL BUTLER's HEADQUARTERS. 
 
 At No. 5 1 Coliseum Street, and occupying the 
 square between Urania and Felicity streets, stands 
 a large two-story and basement, brown stuccoed 
 mansion, surrounded by a row of magnolias and 
 skirted with orange trees. This is the Harrison 
 place, which General Butler appropriated to his 
 own use for his headquarters. It is now owned 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 10$ 
 
 by Wm. B. Schmidt, Esq., of the wholesale gro- 
 cery house of Schmidt & Zeigler. During the 
 Federal occupation, the army occupied barracks 
 in Orleans Park, now the Exposition grounds, 
 where were the headquarters of Generals Hatch 
 and Hunt. 
 
 THE CREOLES. 
 
 George Cable and Colonel Waring, in their la- 
 bors for the United States Census report, say: 
 
 The term Creole, as applied to natives of Louisiana, belonged first 
 to the French, and then to the Spanish — a certain excellence of ori- 
 gin, including any native of French or Spanish descent, whose pure 
 non-mixture with the slave race, entitled him to social distinction. 
 
 Later, Africans mixing with European, French or Spanish, adopted 
 the term, as Creole Africans, although not recognized by their Euro- 
 pean kindred. There are French, Spanish and '"colored" Creoles, 
 but no English, Irish, Scotch, or Yankee Creoles, In furtherance of 
 this idea of excellence of origin in commerce, we may have Creole 
 ponies, cows, or cabbages. 
 
 In outward appearance, the Creoles had become the handsome well- 
 knit race, that the freedom of their natural surroundings would have 
 been expected to provide. Of a complexion lacking color, yet free 
 from the sallowness of the Indies, there was a much larger proportion 
 of blondes among them than is commonly supposed. Generally their 
 hair was of a chestnut, or but little deeper tint, except that in the city 
 a Spanish tincture, now and then, asserted itself in black hair and 
 eyes. The women were fair, of symmetrical form, with pleasing fea- 
 tures, lovely expressive eyes, well rounded throats, and superb hair ; 
 vivacious yet decorous in manner and exceedingly tasteful in dress, 
 adorning themselves with beautiful effect in draperies of muslins 
 enriched with embroideries and much garniture of lace, but with the 
 more moderate display of jewels which indicated a community of 
 limited wealth. They were much superior to the men in keenness of 
 wit, and excell them in amiability and many other good qualities. 
 
I06 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 The Creole shopkeeper does not soHcit you to 
 buy. He condescends to wait upon you. You 
 object? And as both heads clasp, then separate 
 and swing outwardly, while the head goes to one 
 side and the shoulders rise with a shrug, his 
 ejaculation will not unlikely be : 
 
 *' Soit. A voire plaisir,'' or ''Muy bieii, sea como 
 lo quiere f/. " *'Just as you please," "It makes no 
 difference to me," or "that is all right." He does 
 not follow you to the door. He is content that 
 you are gone. It is so unlike his ancestors across 
 the water; but it is perhaps the Spanish in them, 
 not la belle France. 
 
 SUNDAY IN NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 A Sabbath in New Orleans, to the stranger, 
 might appear as any Sabbath in a Northern city, 
 provided he sojourned up town, somewhere in the 
 neighborhood of Trinity Church, corner of Jack- 
 son and Coliseum streets. There he will see, pre- 
 ceding the hour for morning service, groups of 
 well-dressed children just out from Sunday-school, 
 and on entering the church he will behold a good 
 attendance and hear an excellent sermon ; and so 
 in many other portions of the city. The whole- 
 sale stores of the solid merchants of those streets 
 south of Canal are closed. The streets are as 
 quiet as those of Boston, and the merchants are 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS TT IS. 10/ 
 
 at church or at their homes with their families. 
 At the same time, at Christ's Church, on Canal, 
 while Dr. Drysdale, with the font for his pulpit 
 and the space outside the chancel rail for his plat- 
 form, with his excellent extempore sermons, de- 
 livered with great dramatic force, together with 
 the influence of the highly cultivated music, is 
 endeavoring to lead souls into the better life, in- 
 side the very next adjoining walls of the Opera 
 House, Ingomar is learning from Parthenia the 
 beautiful theory of — 
 
 " Two souls with but a single thought, 
 Two hearts that beat as one," 
 
 A bell may call one congregation, whilst a brass 
 band and electric lights call the other. 
 
 But on a Sunday morning visit the French quar- 
 ter and French Market and he will see it at its 
 best (or worst), crowded with young and old, well 
 dressed and poorly dressed; some in carriages and 
 some barefoot, purchasing the Sunday dinner. 
 Throngs of girls, fresh from their devotions at 
 low mass, are out for a promenade ; scores of 
 young men there to meet them, and whom the 
 flower-sellers earnestly solicit to buy. One may 
 see a half-dozen little boys dressed for church, at- 
 tentively watching the operations of a man with 
 a card trick to catch the dimes, or listening to the 
 tirade of the Mexican with his miraculous beans 
 
I08 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 from the Holy Land, and the curative powers of 
 his South American ginger root, but this is noth- 
 ing. Wait until evening when people residing in 
 the American quarter are getting ready for church, 
 then walk down St. Charles street and see the 
 huge banks of young men, walled up against the 
 doors of the theatres, pushing and pounding each 
 other to get choice of seats in the galleries. If 
 there are new attractions, the opening night is in- 
 variably upon a Sunday. 
 
 But this is nothing. Walk farther down St, 
 Charles street, across Canal, and behold the bril- 
 liantly lighted and famed Rue Royale. See the 
 crowds of patronage the street itself possesses, 
 and then enter any of the bar-rooms, gambling- 
 rooms or Tivolis heretofore described, and you 
 will behold them in the climax of their glory on 
 a Sunday evening. 
 
 But with all this, there is a wide awake organi- 
 zation known as the Sunday League, and which 
 has been persistently at work endeavoring to get 
 the managers of the Exposition to agree to close 
 the gates on the Sabbath day, and which at this 
 writing is being considered, while packed Sunday 
 evening meetings are held in churches where con- 
 gregations unite in this effort, where Bishop Hugh 
 Miller Thompson delivers timely addresses and 
 says in substance : " The people of the North think 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. IO9 
 
 New Orleans a very bad city ; a dangerous place 
 for their boys to sojourn ; but it is not altogether 
 true. New Orleans is not such a very bad place ; 
 the people are not all bad ; there are great, pure, 
 generous, noble Christian hearts earnestly work- 
 ing for their fellow men here. There are bad places 
 here as in all cities, but you will not find all of 
 New Orleans in them. You will find none of Dr. 
 Palmer's congregation there, nor none of Dr. 
 Holland's." And so, there are thousands of the 
 good people of New Orleans who would order a 
 different Sabbath over the entire city if they 
 could, but do not yet see the way. 
 
 LOTTERIES. 
 
 * * The institution drazving these Lotteries ivas reg- 
 ularly incorporated by the Legislature of the State for 
 
 EDUCATIONAL AND CHARITABLE PURPOSES." * 
 
 So heads the scheme. It is possible New Or- 
 leans may have inherited this business from Spain, 
 for "The Royal Havana Lottery" is among the 
 recollections of the oldest inhabitant. It has a 
 firm foot-hold here, and influences all classes, from 
 the crowd at the curbstone around the woman who 
 places your hands upon a galvanic plate, causing 
 a small gong to sound, while in a glass tube filled 
 with alcohol a small imp arises, bows, disappears 
 and, as the woman alleges, to write upon a sheet 
 
no NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 of paper a diagnosis of your future, which, in a 
 sealed envelope, is handed you, and a dime handed 
 to her — from this woman to her rival across Canal 
 Street, the Mexican "doctor" with his harangue: 
 "Here, gentlemen, yoCi see the male and female 
 Mexican bean which I place in a glass of water. 
 The male floats, and you observe the female sinks. 
 Carry a pair of these in your pocket and your 
 digestive organs will be free from disorder. Try 
 your blood, gentlemen ! Try your blood ! It shows 
 your circulation ; whether you have heart disease 
 or liver complaint." He hands you a glass tube, 
 with a bulb at each end, and containing a colored 
 liquid, which a warm hand causes to flow from the 
 bulb held by the hand to the bulb at the other 
 end A cold hand will not accomplish it. This 
 is his test of liver complaint and heart disease. 
 "Try your blood, gentlemen; only five cents, 
 and I give you with it a lucky bean from the 
 Holy Land, which insures you success in all 
 undertakings." See the dimes this man draws 
 from the pockets of Superstition and Faith. 
 
 See the blue and pink lottery tickets suspended 
 upon lines in all the cigar store windows ! What 
 do all these men and women of many nations, 
 white and black, .stand in contemplative mood 
 before these sheets of numbers for ? Why do they 
 invariably select a particular combination of 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. Ill 
 
 numbers? Is it not because they believe in the 
 particular superstition that the particular 07ie will 
 win ? Of course they believe. They do not 
 buy tickets ! they ''play it,'' but they pay, just as 
 well for them. 
 
 *'You never play that?" said a street knife 
 peddler whose stand was before one of these 
 windows. * ' You never ? I know a man, a negro, 
 he play in this window on 15 and he got ;^ 15,000 
 prize — oh, yes, many play that." 
 
 Yes, many do "play it" in some form or 
 another, from the curb-stone to the funding of the 
 city's debt. Hungry women have been known to 
 sell the shoes from their feet to procure the means 
 for purchasing a ticket. Men of means from the 
 country have come to town to play it — as Herkimer 
 county farmers go to Wall Street when there is a 
 panic — and played it until they had blue and red 
 tickets enough to paper the rooms they occupied 
 and not strike it; the man who while on his way to 
 procure medicine for his sick wife with a last five 
 dollar note is induced to part with it for a whole 
 ticket which draws the Capital prize. This and all 
 other fortunate ones are heralded while the hun- 
 dreds of thousands w^ho dare not tell the story of 
 the money spent on tickets which was sorely 
 needed for other purposes, is a secret. Fail to 
 win ! why they need not, for here are little manuals 
 
112 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 for sale at twenty-fiv^e cents which teach how to 
 *'play it to win by mere common sense calcula- 
 tions and combinations." Oh, vain, vain expec- 
 tation. Poor, poor fools, whose time, whose 
 minds are thus diverted from the substantial, 
 healthy ways of earning the bread they eat. The 
 last dollar of many -and many a man is paid as a 
 last straw to obtain means to procure the neces- 
 saries of life for another week, to lose it. The 
 personal appearance of many who are seen stak. 
 ing their last dollar for a ticket — their worn and 
 seedy clothes tell the tale of poverty following this 
 beckoning, alluring demon of Hope. 
 
 The headquarters of the Louisiana State lot- 
 tery is the whole of the granite building corner of 
 Union and St. Charles streets. Its main entrance 
 is on St. Charles, and discloses a large room filled 
 with desks and clerks, with all the p"^raphernalia 
 of an ordinary bank. 
 
 Rich and poor, old and young, ragged and well 
 dressed, are entering and departing constantly, 
 parting with their specie and currency and receiv- 
 ing the blue, red and yellow tickets, which they 
 carefully fold, with the faith that they may relieve 
 a pressing need or increase their accumulations 
 next week, or to-morrow, as the turn of the wheel 
 may direct. 
 
 It is said that this lottery is mostly owned by a 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II 3 
 
 prominent citizen of New Orleans who is a lover 
 of good horse flesh, and who once desired a mem- 
 bership in the Jockey Club on Esplanade Street. 
 He made application and was promptly black- 
 balled. His reply was: ''Very well, gentle- 
 men, I'll turn your race-track into a burying- 
 ground." A short time elapsed, when his agents 
 were quietly at work securing a sufficient number 
 of shares to give him ' the control. When this 
 was done, he elected his own officers, and to 
 carry out his threat ordered the sale of the track 
 for cemetery purposes, and it is now known as the 
 New St. Louis Cemetery. 
 
 A MATINEE AT THE ACADEMY. 
 Period 1884 — November 11, one act, one scene. 
 
 On Stage left, a large wheel, six feet in diameter, 
 resembling somewhat an over-shot waterwheel. 
 It is about three feet in width and the sides are of 
 plate glass. A shaft runs through the centre to 
 which, upon each side, is attached a crank. 
 
 Upon the stage right is a smaller wheel about 
 two and a half feet in diameter, similar to the first 
 except that its circumference is sheathed with 
 brass. Near it, upon a box, lies a small white 
 sack containing about four quarts of prizes. 
 
 In the stage front and center, upon the carpet, 
 
114 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 lie eight sacks containing about two bushels each 
 of numbers, and all tied and sealed. 
 
 A group of three gentlemen are seated upon the 
 left; one of medium low stature, about sixty years 
 of age, dressed stylishly in black, with neatly 
 close-cut white hair and mustache. 
 
 The next most distinguished, ten years the sen- 
 senior of the first, is dressed in garments of gray, 
 hanging loosely over a form with stooping 
 shoulders, a head partially bald and with flowing 
 gray beard. The third, a taller gentleman than 
 the others, younger, and dressed as if for an evening 
 party or attendance upon a Cabinet meeting. 
 
 Upon a sofa in the rear, are seated four little 
 boys. At the wings ready for service, stand two 
 negroes. A notary's table is on the left, another 
 upon the right. Four gentlemen now enter and 
 seat themselves at one of the tables ; at the same 
 time three reporters enter and seat themselves at 
 the other table. One of the negroes places before 
 the footlights a walnut box about two feet square 
 and in front of it a hassock. A youth of about 
 fourteen enters and seats himself upon the hassock 
 with back to the audience. 
 
 The gentlemen rise from their seats, and form 
 a group about one of the tables, and for a few 
 minutes converse gaily in French. During all 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II 5 
 
 this time the parquette and galleries are rapidly 
 filling. 
 
 The fashionably dressed gentleman of sixty, 
 with gray, almost white hair, and close cut 
 mustache, which is General Beauregard, takes his 
 seat at the side of the wheel of brass upon the 
 right. The gentleman with stooping shoulders, 
 long beard and spectacles, which is General Jubal 
 Early, takes his seat upon the left beside the huge 
 wheel of glass. 
 
 /'Shall we not commence, General? it is ten 
 minutes to eleven," said one of the gentlemen 
 from the rear, addressing General Beauregard. 
 *'We may as well," responded the General, look 
 ing at his watch. The negroes then appear and 
 draw one of the large sacks forward. General 
 Jubal Early arises and stands before it while Gen- 
 eral Beauregard breaks the seal and unties the 
 neck. The sack is then lifted, and its two bushels 
 of numbers, each about two inches in length, 
 rolled to the thickness of a pipe stem and held 
 by a rubber band, are emptied into the wheel at a 
 door in its outer edge. General Early looks into 
 the sack to determine that all the tickets are out, 
 then hands it to General Beauregard. General 
 Early then remarks : * 'All out? " General Beaure- 
 gard responds: ''AH out," as he throws into a 
 corner the seal which was about the neck of the 
 
Il6 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 sack. This is repeated until the eight sacks are 
 emptied, and the huge wheel through its transpar- 
 ent sides is about half filled with sixteen bushels, 
 supposed to be one hundred thousand bits of 
 paper consecutively numbered. The two generals 
 then repair to the brass wheel upon the left, where 
 General Beauregard lifts the small white sack con- 
 taining the four quarts of similar bits of paper 
 supposed to number one thousand, and empties 
 them into the wheel. These are the prizes. One 
 of the small boys in knee pants then approaches 
 General Beauregard, who places upon the child's 
 eyes, a bandage, which reaches around the head, 
 at the same time bareing the little arm to the 
 elbow. Upon the left wing General Early, with' 
 another child, achieves a similar work. 
 
 **Are you ready, gentlemen?" enquired a 
 portly, dignified looking man from the center. 
 "We are ready," responded General Early. The 
 two negroes then step forward and take their 
 places upon each side of the large wheel, and with 
 their hands upon the cranks, turn it until the con- 
 tents roll upon each other, and the tickets are 
 thoroughly mixed. The sound of these hundred 
 thousand bits of paper revolving is like the music 
 of Oliver Wendell Holmes' huckleberries, drop- 
 ping from the measure into the pan. The revolu- 
 tions cease, the two generals simultaneously open 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS FT IS. 11/ 
 
 the doors to the wheels and the Httle bared arm 
 is thrust into each, a number is drawn forth and 
 handed to General Early, and another to General 
 Beauregard. The former unrolls it and reads 
 audibly, ''Twenty-nine thousand_, six hundred and 
 seventy." The response, in a low but rapid tone 
 from General Beauregard, as 'he unrolls his num- 
 ber, is 'Fifty." A gentleman^ facing the audi 
 ence from General Early's right, receives the 
 ticket from the child, holds it up to the audience, 
 and repeats in loud tones, "Twenty-nine thou- 
 sand' six hundred and seventy," while another at 
 General Beauregard's left, repeats ''Fifty dollars." 
 Again the little hand goes into the wheel of fate, 
 *'Ninety-tv/o thousand and forty-one, and "two 
 thousand dollars" follow it. $ioo, $$o, $500 
 $200, and other prizes are drawn during the space 
 of five minutes, when a voice exclaims, "Next 
 roll and change boys. " Two other little fellows 
 take the places of the first, the negroes enter and 
 set the wheels revolving until the tickets are 
 again thoroughly mixed, the doors are opened 
 and the drawing renewed. This is repeated every 
 five minutes while the drawing lasts. ' As a play 
 it becomes monotonous, but to the house of 
 spectators every moment is one of intense interest, 
 and when General Beauregard quietly and dis- 
 tinctly ejaculates, "Seventy-five thousand," and 
 
115 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 the stentorian voice of the repeater, shouts 
 *' Sixty-eight thousand, nine hundred and eighty 
 draws the capital prize of seventy-five thousand 
 dollars!" there is a loud murmur throughout the 
 academy, messenger boys from the reporters are 
 darting out between the flies, while the actors re- 
 tire for a few moments ostensibly to ascertain 
 where that ticket was sold. The drawing occupies 
 about two and a half hours when the last prize is 
 taken from the brass wheel. The numbers in the 
 large wheel do not seem to have diminished. In 
 fact only one per cent, of the entire number has 
 been taken out. One of the announcers of num- 
 bers then steps forward with this epilogue: 
 
 ''That's the last of the drawing, gentlemen. I 
 hope you all drawed prizes." 
 
 With many a sigh, for it is a great tragedy to 
 the majority of the vast audience, the secret, sor- 
 rowful hearts quietly depart. In many places the 
 sidewalks are strewn with torn tickets, the cigar 
 stores are now emptied of them, but to-morrow 
 they will be replenished with the new scheme for 
 the following month, and which will be heard of 
 from the Atlantic to the Pacific, from New Orleans 
 to Manitoba. 
 
 cable's HOUSE. 
 
 George W. Cable's home is on Eight Street, No. 
 229. It has a very pretty yard flanked with 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II9 
 
 good sized orange trees well laden. In building 
 this castle he has embodied none of the courts, 
 porte-cochere, or Moorish arches of Franco-Spanish 
 New Orleans, which he loves to describe, but the 
 reverse. He has entirely ignored the low floor, 
 on a level with the sidewalk, and has leaped into 
 the air. He has perpetuated the architecture of 
 the mansions of the lower Tennessee, above 
 Paducah, where the best citizens, on account of 
 high water, first erect the foundation of columns, 
 and then commence and end on the second stgry, 
 the porte-cochere being a ladder, which after ascend- 
 ing is pulled in. Cable has improved upon the 
 perspective architectural views of that country by 
 growing roses and jessamines in front of his 
 columns, and bananas in the rear so as to hide 
 his back yard from, the curious in their efforts to 
 peer through. Instead of the ladder, he has a 
 flight of substantial wooden steps, the width of 
 whicji was governed by the space between two 
 old orange trees, which guard them upon either 
 side. It is thought that he entrusted the building of 
 the cottage to his friend Col. George E. Waring, 
 who by thus elevating it upon columns got in all 
 his well known principles on ventilation and 
 drainage. During Cable's absence east with Mark 
 Twain, the cottage is occupied by Joaquin Miller, 
 who is here wrestling to down the imageries of the 
 
120 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 Sierras in describing the manners and customs of 
 the Creoles. In his pen pictures of All Saints 
 day, he presents the tombs in the cemeteries, as a 
 pack of army wagons coralled upon a prairie. 
 
 A SUGAR PLANTATION. 
 
 The nearest large sugar plantation to the city is 
 that owned by the estate of the late Oakes Ames, 
 of Massachusetts. It lies on the opposite side of 
 the river from the Exposition grounds, and is 
 easy of access via the Choupitoulas and Levee 
 horse-cars, stopping at Upper Line Ferry, where 
 a sail-boat is waiting for passengers. On reaching 
 the opposite bank a cluster of ancient brick build- 
 ings, enclosed within a paling, greet the eye. On 
 descending from the levee bank to the store and 
 office, one feels on looking back that he is inside 
 a fort, so high do the earthworks of the levee 
 appear. The office of the plantation is within 
 the store, where is kept the usual general assort- 
 ment of a country store, to supply the hands. 
 
 Near the store and residence are long rows of 
 one-storied brick dwellings, shingled with staves. 
 These are the old negro quarters used before the war, . 
 and are yet quite comfortable. A short distance 
 from them is the sugar house or mill, and from the 
 beginning of November, when cane cutting begins, 
 until January, it is a busy place. The cane fields 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 121 
 
 commence near the sugar house, and extend near- 
 ly two miles, or as far as the soil is planted. 
 Deep canals or ditches traverse these bottoms, 
 intersected by smaller ditches. From this deep, 
 alluvial soil the thick rows of cane, planted in 
 ridges about six feet apart, grow to a height of 
 twelve and fifteen feet, and on looking down these 
 long avenues of thick, dark, purple stalks, the 
 waving blades become a canopy of green over- 
 head. 
 
 With heavy, cleaver-like knives, the rows of labor- 
 ers cut and strip each individual stalk separately, 
 while the overseer in his saddle is eyeing every 
 one. It is a pretty scene in agriculture to witness 
 these long rows of negroes ; to listen to their ludi- 
 crous conversation, and hear the swish of the cut- 
 ting .knives as they descend upon the juicy stalks 
 which sweeten the world ; to stand upon the ele- 
 vated banks of these large ditches, and look over 
 the line of cane-cutters to the sea of waving green 
 beyond, and further still to the tall chimneys of the 
 sugar houses, belching forth the black smoke. At 
 one's feet, from among the rank grass, rise the still 
 bright golden rod and small aster, while the crickets 
 and other insects make sounds of summer that 
 remind one of home far, far away in the north. 
 
 The cane is planted in layers on the ridges of 
 deep furrows five or six feet apart. When it is 
 
122 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 cut, from the stubble the next crop springs up for 
 the following season; when that is cut, some 
 planters plow the land and put in a crop of pea- 
 vine by way of rotation before planting again. 
 The leaves on being stripped are left upon the 
 ground to be plowed under as a fertilizer. The 
 cane is loaded upon carts driven by a negro with 
 three mules abreast — a la chaiiot — to the mill. A 
 tramway and cars drawn by mules also bring the 
 cane to the mill from another direction. From 
 the piles where the carts deliver it, men place the 
 stalks upon aprons or carriers of canvass, five feet 
 wide, like the carriers to a threshing machine, 
 which convey them, gradually ascending to the 
 next story of the mill, where two men feed the 
 stalks to a huge drum or roller, which draws the 
 cane through, crushing and pressing out the juice. 
 From this roller the crushed cane is carried to an- 
 other fifteen feet further on, where it is again drawn 
 through rollers and every vestige of saccharine 
 pressed from it. After this last pressing, the cane 
 is so dry it is carried upon aprons directly to the 
 furnace fires and burned, supplying nearly all the 
 fuel necessary for the steam used. From the 
 rollers a small river of cane juice is constantly 
 flowing to the boiling tanks. These are very 
 numerous in long rows, and from them the juice or 
 syrup, when a certain degree of saccharine gravity 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 123 
 
 (if the term may be used) is reached, is taken to 
 tanks in an adjoining room, where it rests until it 
 has settled. From thence it is elevated to the 
 vacuum evaporator. This is about eight feet in 
 diameter at the base, in shape like a Minnie ball, 
 or may be Hkened to the upper end of Jules 
 Verne's projectile, in which the journey to the 
 moon was taken. That had a round window from 
 whence observations outside could be made. This 
 has a circular window, firmly bound with brass 
 to the strong iron casing, through which observa- 
 tions can be made inside to ascertain how the 
 boiHng is progressing. Inside this iron shell, 
 coils of steam pipes keep the thickening syrup 
 in a restless condition until it is evaporated. 
 
 As the hour approaches for a "strike," as it is 
 called, the sugar boiler every few moments draws 
 from the hopper or base of the shell, by means of 
 a brass tube which penetrates it, a sample of the 
 boiling syrup, and by dexteriously manipulating it 
 between the forefinger and thumb, determines 
 whether it has sufficient grain, if the syrup is de- 
 parting from it, and if it is in a condition to draw. 
 
 When the time arrives for ''the strike," the 
 steam is cut off from the coils, a gong is sounded 
 and the men take their places below, as they would 
 in taking a charge of iron from a furnace stack, 
 The valve at the base or hopper is then opened. 
 
124 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 and into a shute the mass of saccharine flows — a. 
 river of hot sugar — into huge vats called the vac- 
 uum pans, through which a shaft, with arms at- 
 tached, revolves, to keep the sugar from settling; 
 from these it descends in streams into the centri- 
 fugal drums below, whose twelve hundred revolu- 
 tions per minute separates effectually every frac- 
 tion of a pennyweight of syrup from every grain 
 of sugar, and the latter on its metamorphosis 
 falls into large wheelbarrows, is then wheeled into 
 an adjoining room and emptied into channels con- 
 taining endless screws, carrying it to elevators, 
 thence to the dryers or granulators above, and 
 from them descends pure white sanded crystals 
 into barrels below, and is packed and headed up 
 in much less time than is required to describe it- 
 From the vacuum evaporator, to dry white grain 
 sugar less than five minutes' time is taken. A 
 strike from this evaporator will yield fourteen 
 thousand pounds of sugar, with an average of 
 three strikes in twenty-four hours, or twenty-one 
 tons a day. 
 
 The cane yield upon this plantation is from fif- 
 teen to twenty tons per acre. A ton of cane pro- 
 duces about one hundred and thirty-five pounds of 
 sugar. An average hand will cut and strip three 
 tons of cane a day ; an extra hand, five tons a 
 day. An evaporater alone, like this one, would 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 25 
 
 cost about as much as a locomotive, or eight 
 thousand dollars. The machinery or plant of a 
 sugar house like this would represent an invest- 
 ment of from sixty thousand to eighty thousand 
 dollars. There are several thousand acres of land 
 in this plantation, but not over five hundred acres 
 in cane. Like many others it has suffered severely 
 from crevasses, the great river being a constant 
 source of terror. 
 
 Sugar cane is a barometer of the season of 
 1884, illustrated as follows : Near the base of the 
 stalk the spaces between the joints were short. 
 This represents the protracted rainy season of 
 spring, when the cane was in its infancy. Longer 
 spaces farther up, denote fair cane weather dur- 
 ing early summer. Contracted spaces again near 
 the top, denote the severe drouth of the autumn 
 of that year. 
 
 TO THE JETTIES. ^ 
 
 Steamboats leave at eleven a. m., daily at the 
 head of Conti Street, for the Jetties, arriving at about 
 midnight, and start on the return trip about seven 
 A. M. next day. There is a hotel for the accom- 
 modation of those who may desire to spend a day. 
 
 This is an enjoyable trip, giving visitors an op- 
 portunity for a short ride upon the Father of 
 Waters, where it is at its best, as well as a chance 
 to view the great work of Captain Eads. It is 
 
126 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 about eighty miles to Forts St. Philip and Jack- 
 son. From the forts to the head of the passes it 
 is about twenty miles, from thence to Fort Eads 
 twelve miles, where the jetties commence, extend- 
 ing one and a half miles to the gulf. This trip 
 covers territory representing some of the best 
 rice, sugar and orange plantations in Louisiana. 
 The total rice crop of Plaquemine Parish for 1883 
 was 74, OCX) barrels, and the crop of sugar was 
 15,552 hogsheads. The first orange plantation 
 commences at Chalmette on the east bank, three 
 miles below, and the first rice plantation is on the 
 west bank five miles below. Two miles below 
 that upon the same side of the river, is Corrinne 
 plantation, which produced last year 1,500,000 
 pounds of sugar. Fifteen miles below, on the 
 left bank is the Charles Villere plantation, where 
 General Beauregard was raised. A mile below 
 this is "Terrre au Boeuf," or Beef Prairie, where 
 the Shell Beach Railroad terminates. This is at 
 '*Eno;lish Turn," the bend in the river where Bien- 
 ville advised the Englishman who had come to 
 start a colony in Louisiana, to turn back, and he 
 did so. 
 
 Nineteen miles and we reach H. P. Kernochen's 
 sugar plantation, " Scarcedale, " on the left bank, 
 which produced during the season of 1883, i,ii9r 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 12/ 
 
 ooo pounds of sugar. This is said to be one of the 
 finest plantations in the State. 
 
 Twenty-two miles below is Simpson Horner's 
 "Stella " plantation. 
 
 Rice, sugar and orange plantations continue, 
 among them being "Ste. Rosalie," thirty-three 
 miles, producing 760,000 pounds refined sugar; 
 ** Myrtle Grove," owned by State Senator Wil- 
 kinson, thirty-five miles below on right bank ; 
 Harlem, Bellevue, and many others. 
 
 The first rice mill is the Farmers, on the left 
 bank, forty-two miles below. The Court House 
 mill, two miles further, and others follow. Ex- 
 Governor Warmouth's plantation, " Magnolia," lies 
 on the west bank, forty-five miles below. It pro- 
 duced, in 1883, 1,000 hogsheads of sugar. 
 
 Sixty miles below, on the right bank, is the 
 Johnson orange plantation, containing, it is said, 
 11,000 bearing trees. 
 
 Next we reach the forts where Farragut ran the 
 gauntlet described elsewhere in this book. Below 
 the forts there is but little cultivation, being 
 mostly in swamp. 
 
 On this trip many varieties of craft are met, 
 from the oyster smack to the Bremen steamer, 
 together with many hulls from various parts of 
 the world. 
 
128 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 The following from the Times- Democrat is a 
 good description of Captain Eads' achievement: 
 
 The jetties extend from South Pass across the bar into the Gulf. 
 The total length of the east jetty, as constructed, was 12, 100 feet, or 
 nearly two and one-third miles ; the west jetty terminates opposite the 
 east jetty, but its total length is only about one and a half miles, the 
 difference being due to the greater extension of the natural banks on 
 the west side of the pass. Without entering into a detailed account 
 of the method of constructing the jetties, their mode of structure may 
 be briefly stated to be with willow mattresses, laid m layers, and 
 weighted with stone, and on this foundation a concrete wall is built. 
 After successfully surmounting innumerable engineering difficulties 
 and embarrassments of the most formidable character. Captain Eads 
 achieved a glorious triumph in his great undertaking, and the jetties 
 -were practically completed in July, 1879. 
 
 This improvement on the channel continues from year to year. The 
 latest reports show that the shoalest locality in South Pass this year is 
 seven hundred feet above East Point, where the least depth is twenty- 
 nine feet, and the least width of the twenty-six foot channel is two 
 hundred and forty feet. Last year, 1883, the least depth of the chan- 
 nel throughout the pass was twenty-seven feet ; and the twenty-six foot 
 channel was one hundred and sixty feet wide, a deepening of two feet 
 in the least depth and a gain of eighty feet in width in the twenty-six 
 foot channel. 
 
 Coming to the jetties proper the improvement is still more conspicu- 
 ous. The least depth last year was thirty-one feet ; to-day it is thirty- 
 four feet, a deepening of three feet. In 1883 the thirty foot channel 
 vv^as ninety feet wide and the twenty-six foot channel two hundred and 
 forty feet. The report this year shows a width for the former of one 
 hundred and fifty feet, a gain of sixty feet ; and for the latter of two 
 hundred and seventy feet, a gain of thirty feet — all this done by the 
 action of the water alone and without the aid of the dredge-boat, which 
 has not operated since February 22, 1883, and with a very small force 
 of workingmen employed. 
 
 The present condition of the jetties, as far as depth of water is con- 
 cerned, may be given about as follows : Least depth in pass above 
 jetties, twenty-nine feet ; least width of twenty-six foot channel in pass 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 29 
 
 above jetties, two hundred and forty feet ; least depth through jetties, 
 thirty-four feet ; least width of twenty-six foot channel through jetties, 
 two hundred and seventy feet ; least width of thirty foot channel 
 through jetties, one hundred and fifty feet ; least depth of outlet into 
 gulf beyond jetties, thirty-two and ei^ht hundreths feet ; least width 
 •of thirty foot channel of outlet into gulf beyond jetties, one hundred 
 and twenty feet. 
 
 The channel through the year has sensibly improved with approxi- 
 mation to uniformity of depth. That is, the jetties, instead of having 
 a rough and uneven bottom, are growing more regular and uniform, with 
 nearly the same depth throughout. 
 
 Since their completion the jetties have been put to the severest tests, 
 and the repeated and safe passage through them of vessels of the 
 largest draught have completely demonstrated their success. Among 
 the latest triumphs of the jetties was in 1883, when the immense Eng- 
 lish cable steamship, the "Silvertown" — acknowledged to be the 
 largest vessel with the largest cargo that ever left New Orleans — went 
 out to sea successfully. The dimensions of the Silvertown were : 338 
 feet in length ; depth of hold to top deck, 42 feet ; beam, 55 feet. On 
 the trip referred to she carried a cargo consisting of 10,618 bales of 
 cotton, 319 tons of oil cake, 24,193 bushels of grain, 10,750 wood 
 staves, 1,000 tons of coal, and water ballast, 275 tons. With this cargo 
 her draught of water was 25 feet 4 inches aft and 22 feet 1 1 inches for- 
 ward. Vessels have passed through the jetties with a heavier drauglit 
 than the Silvertown. The " City of New York," a short time before, 
 went through wfth a draught of 25 feet 10 inches, but she was a com- 
 paratively narrow ship, with a sharp bottom ; the Silvertown, on the 
 contrary, had an enormous breadth of beam, and was nearly as broad 
 at the bottom as the top, being nearly flat-bottomed. Ii was a splen- 
 did testimonial to the complete success ot the jetties. 
 
 MARDI GRAB. 
 
 The festival preceding the first of Lent or 
 Ash Wednesday, is one of special interest in New 
 Orleans, and the city is distinguished for the 
 splendor she gives to her favorite holiday, the 
 
130 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 *'Mardi Gras," or "Fat Tuesday." Most of the 
 distinctive ceremonies now annually performed 
 were ori^^inally introduced by the French popula- 
 tion as early as 1827, and for many years their 
 celebration was confined chiefly to them. One of 
 the leading features has been the procession of the 
 **Bceuf Gras," the ox gorgeously dressed and at- 
 tended through the streets with much pomp by 
 large numbers of gaily and grotesquely masked 
 butchers. Everything pertaining to these festiv- 
 ities now comes within the control of an elaborate 
 organization. The day, Mardi Gras, is a legal hol- 
 day, and the whole city is for the time ostensibly 
 placed under the control of a King of the Carni- 
 val, the mysterious and mighty "Rex." There 
 are two principal pageants. The first, in the day 
 time, is the escort of the " beloved Rex" through 
 his favorite city. He is seated on a magnificent 
 car, high above the heads of the people, his ap- 
 proach heralded as only royalty used to be, at- 
 tended by his own special guard and foreign 
 soldiery, as well as the United States military and 
 marines. The illusion of a powerful monarch vis- 
 iting his dominions is most curiously sustained to 
 the minutest detail. The night pageant is known 
 as th£ " Mystic Krewe of Comus," This has a 
 character altogether unique. The first display 
 was in 1857. The proceedings are kept entirely 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 31 
 
 secret; nothing is known but that the Krewe will 
 again make their appearance, but whence they 
 come, of whom composed, and what is to be the 
 character of the entertainment, is kept in pro- 
 found mystery till they suddenly reveal them- 
 selves to the curious and always delighted specta- 
 tors. It is a series of tableaux drawn upon im- 
 mense floats, brilliantly illuminated, illustrative of 
 great classic poems of striking events in the 
 world's history, ancient and modern, as ''Paradise 
 Lost," "The Iliad," "The Historic Charactersof 
 America," "Audubon and His Birds," and 
 ''Scenes from the Ancient Scriptures." These 
 displays evince a rare combination of classic erudi- 
 tion, taste and ingenuity, presented with a com- 
 pleteness and gorgeousness as bewildering as it is 
 beautiful. The day's pageants close with combi- 
 nation tableaux at the theatres, Avith a ball, and 
 with the grand court ball of "Rex," at which he 
 choses a queen, who shares his greatness for the 
 evening. During this festival many grotesque 
 scenes and processions of maskers appear in the 
 streets. The throwing of flour in the streets is 
 now prohibited. 
 
 The appearance of his Royal Highness is now 
 publicly announced for Mardi Gras, February 17, 
 1885, when the brilliant pageants of the Krewe of 
 Proteus and Knights of Momus will take place. 
 
132 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 ELCTION DAY IN NEW ORLEANS ! 
 
 During the Centennial Exposition at Philadel- 
 phia, the writer visited various voting- precincts 
 on the day of the Presidential election in that city, 
 and, being in New Orleans on the second Tuesday 
 in November, 1884, a comparison of events is 
 certainly in order, in view of the apparent want 
 of truthful information on the part of thousands 
 of Northern people who are led to believe that 
 scenes of danger and bloodshed are constantly oc- 
 curring. Philadelphia is cited in comparison be- 
 cause the outlying wards of the city — the precincts 
 lying towards the upper end of Chestnut street — 
 may be truthfully likened to the voting precincts 
 of the old French Quarter in New Orleans on the 
 day of the last Presidential election, in point of 
 order, quiet, and entire absence of any noisy or 
 boisterous conversation. No quarrels, no threat- 
 ening language, nor display of firearms Vv^as seen 
 — no crowds even around the polls ; voters leisurely 
 coming forward, selecting their tickets from the 
 tables on the sidewalk, depositing their votes and 
 departing to attend to their business. The drink- 
 ing places were closed, and as far as quiet goes, it 
 was a far better Sunday than the ordinary day. 
 
 •'BULL RUN RUSSELL'S". PEN PICTURES OF NEW ORLEANS IN l86l. 
 
 At night the steamer entered a dismal canal, through a swamp which 
 is infamous as the most mosquito haunted place along the infested 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS FT IS. 1 33 
 
 shore ; the mouths of the Mississippi themselves beins: quite innocent 
 compa-red to the entrance of Lake Ponchartrain. When I woke up 
 at dayhght, I found the vessel lying alongside a wharf with a railway 
 train alongside, which is to take us to the city of New Orleans, six 
 miles distant. 
 
 A village of restaurants, or " restaurats, " as they are called here, 
 and of bathing boxes has grown up around the terminus ; all the 
 names of the owners, the notices and sign-boards being French. Out- 
 side the settlement the railroad passes through a swamp, like an In- 
 dian jungle, through which the overflowings of the Mississippi creep 
 in black currents. The spires of New Orleans rise above the under- 
 wood and semi-tropical vegetation of this swamp, Nearer to the city 
 lies a marshy plain, in which flocks of cattle, up to the belly in the 
 soft earth, are floundering among the clumps of vegetation. The 
 nearer approach to New Orleans by rail lies through a suburb of ex- 
 ceedingly broad lanes, lined on each side by rows of miserable, mean, 
 one-storied houses, inhabited, if I am to judge from the specimens I 
 saw, by a miserable and sickly population. 
 
 A great many of the men and women had evident traces of negro 
 blood in their veins, and of the purer blooded whites many had the 
 peculiar look of fishy-fleshy population of the Levantine towns, and 
 all were pale and lean. The railway termmus is marked by a dirty, 
 barrack-like shed in the city. Selecting one of the numerous tumble- 
 down hackney carriages, which crowded the streets outside the station, 
 I directed the man to drive me to the house of Mr. Mure, the British 
 consul, who had been kind enough to invite me as his guest for the 
 period of my stay in New Orleans. 
 
 The streets are badly paved, as those of most of the American 
 cities, if not all that I have ever been in, but in other respects they 
 are more worthy of a great city than are those of New York. There 
 is an air thoroughly French about the people — cafes, restaurants, bil- 
 liard-rooms abound, with oyster and lager-bier saloons interspersed. 
 The shops are all magazines ; the people in the streets are speaking 
 French, particularly the negroes, who are going out shopping with 
 their masters and mistresses, exceedingly well dressed, noisy, and not 
 unhappy looking. The extent of the drive gave an imposing idea of 
 the size of New Orleans — the richness of some of the shops, the ve- 
 hicles in the streets, and the multitude of well-dressed people on the 
 
134 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 pavements, an impression of its wealth and the comfort of the inhab- 
 itants. The Confederate flag was flying from the pubHc buildings 
 and from many private houses. Military companies paraded through 
 the streets, and a large proportion of men were in uniform. 
 
 The streets are full of Turcos, Zouaves, Chasseurs ; walls are cov- 
 ered with placards of volunteer companies ; there are Pickwick rifles 
 La Fayette, Beauregard, MacMahon guards, among whom the Mea- 
 gher rifles, indignant with the gentleman from whom they took their 
 name, because of his adhesion to the North, are going to rebaptise 
 themselves, and to seek glory under one more auspicious. In fact, 
 New Orleans looks like a suburb of the camp at Chalons. Tailors are 
 busy night and day making uniforms. I went into a shop with the 
 consul for some shirts — the mistress and all her seamstresses were busy 
 preparing flags as hard as the sewing-machines could stitch them, and 
 could attend to no business for the present. The Irish population, 
 finding themselves unable to migrate northwards, and being without 
 work, have rushed to arms with enthusiasm to support southern insti- 
 tutions, and Mr. John Mitchell and Mr. Meagher stand opposed to 
 each other in hostile camps. 
 
 I dined with Major Ranney, the president of one of the railways, 
 with whom Mr. Ward was stopping. Among the company were Mr. 
 Eustis, son-in-law of Mr. Slidell ; Mr. Morse, the Attorney-Genera^ 
 of the State ; Mr. Moise, a Jew, supposed to have considerable influ- 
 ence with the Governor, and a vehement politician ; Messrs. Hunt 
 and others. The table was excellent, and the wines were worthy of 
 the reputation which our host enjoys, in a city where Sallusts and 
 LucuUi are said to abound. One of the slave servants who waited at 
 table, an intelligent yellow "boy," was pointed out to me as a son of 
 General Andrew Jackson. 
 
 We had a full account of the attack of the British troops on the 
 city, and their repulse. Mr. Morse denied emphatically that there was 
 any cotton bale forti^cation in front of the lines, where our troops were 
 defeated ; he asserted that there were only a few bales, I think seventy- 
 five, used in the construction of one battery, and that they and some 
 sugar hogsheads constituted the sole defence of the American trench. 
 Only one citizen applied to the State for compensation, nn a < -:- t 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 135 
 
 of the cotton used by Jackson's troops, and he owned the whole of 
 the bales so appropriated. 
 
 If an apology is needed by those Southern read- 
 ers who desire a veil drawn over the "bloody 
 chasm" of the past, because of the somewhat 
 len^^thy description of the Farragut engagement 
 with Forts Jackson and St. Philip, and other events 
 incident thereto relating to New Orleans and de- 
 scribed in this book, it is hereby freely given. 
 The persons mostly interested in these matters are 
 those whose hands did the work — the Confederate 
 and Federal soldiers, sailors and marines. The 
 true Confederate soldier desires no apology and 
 would treat it as ridiculous — the energetic hand of 
 the Confederate which savagely grasped the musket 
 that sent the deathly messenger, with earnest ten- 
 derness, now grasps the hand of the Federal 
 soldier while they draw near to talk of the dangers 
 they have passed. Thousands of Federal soldiers 
 who are fast passing away, will now make their first 
 visit to former scenes of slaughter, and any light 
 that can be given them relating to locations, will 
 be most assuredly appreciated. That there is a 
 reticence on these subjects in the publications for 
 the information of strangers visitng New Orleans, 
 is to be regretted. The Federal soldier has noth- 
 ing offered him which will refreshen his memory, 
 
136 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 and unless a Confederate soldier is met with who 
 is possessed of information on the subject, he is 
 left completely in the dark without any means of 
 informing himself as to an important event in the 
 history of New Orleans, in which he doubtless 
 was a participant. This reticence on the part of 
 publishers must arise from a false modesty entirely 
 foreign to the subject. The twelve thousand five 
 hundred white headstones, with names from Maine 
 to New Mexico, standing in Chalmette Cemetery, 
 will not down, neither v/ill the monuments in 
 Greenwood and Metarie Road, erected to the 
 memory of the Confederate dead. These small 
 headstones, white and clean, are the cards of those 
 which you have among you constantly. Sons of 
 many of those who lie buried there, will embrace 
 this opportunity of visiting the spot, and those 
 participators of the struggle, who are living, the 
 Federal soldiers, when tJieir cards are presented 
 to their Confederate soldier friends, is anyone fool- 
 ish enough to suppose that their conversation will 
 be merely formal, avoiding all allusions to the 
 conflict, instead of going into every detail, refresh- 
 ing and correcting the memory of each other with 
 a warmth and. friendship born in sympathy with 
 the dangers they have passed ? The frequent in- 
 tercourse of Federal with Confederate soldiers, 
 throughout the South, during the past few years, 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 137 
 
 has taught the fact that any dissenting view is 
 ridiculous. 
 
 Have we done New Orleans ? Have we seen it, 
 as it is? And our tired feet, do they bear evidence 
 as to the thousands and thousands of square feet of 
 surface in the Exposition Buildings ? Are our ears 
 dulled with the combination of noises— the music of 
 bands, the chiming of bells, of fog-horns, the rat- 
 tle of machinery, the gongs of the steam cars of 
 Canal Street; the strange cries of street venders, 
 the noise of mule cars and vehicles? Then let 
 us jump aboard the cars at the station of the 
 Louisville & Nashville Railroad, head of Canal 
 Street, and start down the Gulf coast. O, what a 
 rehef to leave the last link of suburban civiliza- 
 tion, the low, one-storied, dormer-window roofed 
 houses with solid green wooden blinds, hiding 
 every vestage of glass from sight, and look out 
 again into Nature's haunts, into the broad savannas, 
 •endless plains of salt marsh stretching away to the 
 east, away to the west, great masses of long grass 
 as far as the horizon ; the green and brown relieved 
 by vast clouds of white flowers, and tall groups of 
 brilliant golden rod. Here and there great fires 
 have blackened the plain close to the roots of the 
 long grass, and in the morning sun the water 
 sparkles through the black surface like diamonds. 
 
138 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 Here are broad bayous with pretty islands of green 
 cane, sitting like great boquets upon the placid 
 waters, and as we approach, a group of Spanish 
 curlews, a white crane or a few pelicans arise into 
 the air, the latter soaring away in single file. 
 
 And the swamps ! Slimy pools of green — or, 
 perhaps a fire has painted them brown or black — 
 too thick to ripple, and look as though an alliga- 
 tor's nose would cause an elevation but not break 
 the surface. See how the naked gray cypress 
 trunks rise like immense stalagmites, and the 
 great thick, long mantles of dark moss droop- 
 ing like stalactites. See the lowly palms, 
 their outer edges whitened with fire, brightening 
 the gloom with light, like pin-wheels of fire amid 
 the damp : they almost laugh like sprites. It is 
 like a solemn lonely cavern, the haunt of spirits. 
 No wonder Pascagoula Bay has its legend, a mer- 
 maid queen, whose music can be heard to this 
 day. Such places, such scenes, are breeding 
 grounds of the supernatural. 
 
 In 1727 Governor Perier visited the spot near 
 the mouth of the Pascagoula River, where on 
 calm, moonlight nights is heard strange music, 
 like distant aeolian harps, which appears to issue 
 from grottoes in the bottom of the river. Tradi- 
 tion says a tribe formerly existed here, who wor- 
 shipped the idol of a mermaid, and lived on oys- 
 
NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 139 
 
 ters and fish — a harmless race. In 1540 a priest 
 appeared among them, and with cross in hand 
 endeavored to convert them, when one moonlight 
 night, upon the crest of a wave, a beautiful mer- 
 maid appeared, singing : 
 
 " Come to me, come to me, children of the sea. 
 
 Neither bell, book nor cross shall win you from your queen." 
 
 At this they all plunged into the sea, and were 
 never heard of more. The music is still there. 
 
 Eighteen miles from the city we reach Fort 
 Pike, which was occupied by Louisiana troops in 
 1 86 1, and thirty miles brings us to the Rigolets, 
 pronounced Rigolais, the entrance from Lake 
 Borgne to Lake Ponchartrain. It is a charming 
 ride along here, the car windows being high 
 enough over all to scan the horizon for miles. 
 Thirty-eight miles brings us to Pearl River and 
 Grand Plains, and fifty-three miles to Bay St. 
 Louis. Fifteen miles back of Bay St. Louis, close 
 to Bayou La Croix, in the Devil's Swamp, remain 
 some fifty or sixty of the once powerful Choc- 
 taws. They are Christians now, and have a little 
 Catholic church — "The Church of the Holy 
 Cross." But they are Choctaws still, have no 
 large herds, like those of their tribe in the Indian 
 Nation, but live by logging, raising sweet pota- 
 toes, making baskets and selling Choctaw and 
 wahaka roots for bitters. 
 
140 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 
 
 From Bay St. Louis, east, the shore is dotted 
 with handsome summer residences and cottages. 
 Pass Christian, Mississippi City, Beauvoir — where 
 ex-President Jefferson Davis resides — Biloxi, 
 Bienville's first capital. Ocean Springs, West and 
 East Pascagoula, all have excellent hotels, a good 
 beach and avenues of shade of magnolia and live 
 oak. Thunder showers prevail in winter, when 
 it seems like Long Branch in June, but with a 
 greater abundance of shade upon the beach. The 
 railroad courses through the pine woods, and from 
 it one can get no idea of the appearance of the 
 coast, half a mile distant. At Pass Christian one 
 can remain in comfort, and do the Exposition by 
 morning and evening trains with low fares, as well 
 as if located at Rye or Yonkers and the Exposi- 
 tion was in New York. From these points along 
 the coast short excursions can be made to Cat Isl- 
 and, Ship Island, Isle au Pied, where in winter 
 wild geese are plenty, as well as snipe, ducks and 
 curlew, while the waters yield sheeps-head, red 
 fish, croakers, flounders and Spanish mackerel 
 With plenty of time at command, the coast is the 
 place to stay, see the Exposition and rest. 
 
The World's Industrial 
 
 — AND — 
 
 COTTON CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION. 
 Opening Dec. i6, 1884, Closing May 31, 1885. 
 
 OFFICERS OF THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 BOARD OF MANAGEMENT : 
 
 EDMUND RICHARDSON, E. M. HUDSON, 
 
 ALBERT BALDWIN, JULES C. DENIS, 
 
 WM. B. SCHMIDT. SIMON HERNSHEIM, 
 
 F. C. MOREHEAD, SAM'L. H. BUCK, 
 
 GOV. R. M. PATTON. |NO. V. MOORE, 
 
 THOS. HARDEMAN, Jr., G. A. BREAUX, 
 DUNCAxN F. KENNER. 
 
 EXECUTIVE OFFICERS : 
 
 EDMUND RICHARDSON, President. 
 ALBERT BALDWIN, First Vice President. 
 WM. B. SCHMIDT, Second Vice President. 
 RICHARD NIXON, Secretary. 
 JOHN B. LAFITTE, Treasurer. 
 
 E. A. BURKE, Director General. 
 
 F. C. MOREHEAD, Commissioner General. 
 
 G. M. TORGERSON, Supervising Architect. 
 S. H, OILMAN, Consulting Engineer. 
 
 F. N. OGDEN, Chief Superintendent. 
 
 CHIEFS OF DEPARTMENTS : 
 
 DR. G. B. LORING, Chief of Agriculture. 
 
 PARKER EARLE, Chief of Horticulture. 
 
 B. K. BRUCE, Chief Department Colored Exhibits. 
 
 SAME. MULLEN, Chief of Installation. 
 
 B. T. WALSHE, Chief of Information and Accommodation. 
 
 CHAS, L. FITCH, Chief of Transportation. 
 
 WM. H. H. JUDSON, Chief of Printing and Publishing. 
 
142 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 THE WORLD'S INDUSTRIAL AND COT- 
 TON CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION. 
 
 ITS SCOPE. 
 
 The following is an enumeration of the different 
 groupings of exhibits : 
 
 1. Agriculture, 6. Furniture and Accessories, 
 
 2. Horticulture, 7. Textile Fabrics, Clothing and Accessories, 
 
 3. Pisciculture, 8. The Industrial Arts, 
 
 4. Ores and Minerals, 9. Alimentary Products, 
 
 5. Raw and Manufac- 10. Education and Instruction, 
 
 lured Products, 11. Works of Art. 
 
 Under these heads everything wrought by man 
 or produced by nature can be classed. 
 
 The World's Exposition, in its intent, scope and 
 provision, covers every object on earth having any 
 relation to man's use or interest. 
 
 The management, under the authority granted, 
 provided for a thoroughly comprehensive exposi- 
 tion. To encourage exhibits in the various de- 
 partments, when feasible and appropriate, the most 
 liberal premiums in cash and medals are offered. 
 In the Horticultural Department premiums to the 
 amount of $32,000 are offered ; in the Department 
 of Agriculture and Live Stock, premiums to the 
 amount of ;^8o,ooo are offered. For many special 
 
THE EXPOSITION. 143 
 
 exhibits liberal cash premiums will be offered. 
 For general exhibits entered for competition, sub- 
 mitted to international juries, gold, silver and 
 bronze medals, diplomas, certificates of merit and 
 "special mention" will be awarded. 
 
 LOCATION OF GROUNDS. 
 
 The City Park, lying between the left bank of 
 the Mississippi River and St. Charles avenue, 
 about four miles from the business centre of the 
 city, was tendered by the city council for the uses 
 of the Exposition. It is a high, dry and beauti- 
 ful stretch of ground, having numerous groves of 
 magnificent live oaks and unusual advantages of 
 easy access by water and by land. Its river front- 
 age of over half a mile affords ready landing for 
 scores of steamers, while five street and two steam 
 car lines reach it from the centre of the city. St. 
 Charles avenue, the great boulevard of the city, 
 bounds it on the north. The Exposition grounds 
 front east, towards the city proper. 
 
 THE MAIN BUILDING. 
 
 The main building is the largest ever erected. 
 It is 1,378 feet long by 905 feet wide, without 
 courts, and has a continuous roof composed 
 largely of glass so arranged as to afford an abund- 
 ance of light without subjecting the interior to the 
 
144 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 direct rays of the sun. Within, the view is unob 
 structed. From one side or corner of the build- 
 ing to its opposite, the interior showing all the 
 phases of industrial activity is seen. There are 
 no partitions, and the lofty pillars, wide ^.apart^ 
 supporting the roof structure, present no impedi- 
 ment to one's vision, but only serve to assist the 
 eye in measuring the vast expanse. The interior 
 is surrounded by wide and spacious galleries, 
 twenty-three feet high, which are reached by 
 twenty elevators having the most approved safety 
 appliances, and by convenient stairways. 
 
 The machinery department occupies a space of 
 1,378 feet long by 300 feet wide, within the main 
 building, and has an extension added in iron 350 
 feet long and 150 feet wide for heavy machinery, 
 described under the heading of Factories and 
 Mills. From the galleries overlooking, more than 
 two miles of shafting can be seen driving every 
 known character of machinery. 
 
 Music Hall, with a seating capacity, in commo- 
 dious chairs, for 11,000 people, a platform capac- 
 ity for 600 musicians and a mammoth organ built 
 to order for the Exposition occupies the centre of 
 the interior. 
 
 The main building will contain general exhibits. 
 It is situated about in the centre of the grounds. 
 
THE EXPOSITION. 1 45 
 
 UNITED STATES AND STATE EXHIBITS. 
 
 This building is 885 feet long by 565 feet wide. 
 It is one of the largest exposition buildings ever 
 erected. At the time of the adoption of the plans, 
 it was supposed that the Main Building, having 
 the largest capacity of any building heretofore 
 erected, in conjunction with the Horticultural Hall 
 and such minor outside buildings as were neces- 
 sary, would afford ample space and accommoda- 
 tion for all exhibits ; but the interest in the World's 
 Exposition had become so wide-spread and the 
 inquiries and applications for space became so nu- 
 merous, that the necessity for additional accom- 
 modation became imperative, and the management 
 determined upon the erection of this magnificent 
 structure specially for the United States and State 
 Exhibits. The government exhibition will be 
 complete — of itself, almost a mammoth exposition. 
 Each department will have its distinctive exhibit. 
 The Department of State showing samples of cot- 
 ton, wool and cosmos fibres, and of the fabrics 
 made from them from all parts of the world. This 
 exhibit will be arranged in continental groups 
 representing the geographical divisions of the 
 world's commerce, etc. The Postoffice Depart- 
 ment will exhibit all the improvements in mail fa- 
 cilities, and estabhsh a branch office in the build- 
 
146 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 ing for the accommodation of visitors and to show 
 the practical workings of the Postal System. The 
 Treasury Department will exhibit coast survey, 
 light housing, life-saving service, customs, internal 
 revenue, engraving, printing, etc. The War De- 
 partment will show arms, ordnance, engineering, 
 medical, surgical and hospital services, progress in 
 same, etc. The Navy Department will show na- 
 val arms, ordnance, projectiles, torpedoes, dyna- 
 mo electro-machines for firing, models of war ves- 
 sels — ancient and modern, etc. The Interior De- 
 partment — everything pertaining to the inventions 
 and im.provements in American industries and to 
 the history, customs and habits of the aboriginal 
 races, etc. The United States Fishery Commis- 
 sions, the Department of Justice, Bureau of Agri- 
 culture, the Bureau of Education, and especially 
 the Smithsonian Institute, will be exhaustively rep- 
 resented. The Government exhibit will vastly ex- 
 ceed that made at Philadelphia. In addition to 
 the Government exhibits, the collective State ex- 
 hibits and the general educational display will be 
 located in this building. This structure presents 
 a very attractive appearance. 
 
 THE HORTICULTURAL HALL. 
 
 The Horticultural Hall is 600 feet in length and 
 194 feet wide through its centre. It is the largest 
 
THE EXPOSITION. 147 
 
 conservatory in the world. It is substantially 
 built as a durable structure, becoming, by arrange- 
 ment with the city, a permanent feature of the 
 Park. It is located on high ground in the midst 
 of live-oak groves. Surmounting the centre is a 
 magnificent tower, 90 feet high, roofed with glass. 
 Beneath this tower, in constant play, is a grand 
 fountain. 20,000 plates of fruit, double the 
 amount ever before displayed at any exposition, 
 will be shown on tables extending through the 
 hall. Around the hall will be arranged an infinite 
 variety of rare tropical and semi-tropical plants, 
 flowers and shrubbery. There is a tropical hot- 
 house, 250 feet long by 25 feet wide, in which the 
 most delicate flowers from the far South will be 
 nurtured and made to bloom in their most brilliant 
 perfection. Tropical fruits in the various stages 
 of growth will be exhibited. Fruits of every sec- 
 tion and the productions of all seasons will, by 
 arrangements for stated supplies and thorough 
 processes of cold storage, be available for exhibit. 
 
 THE ART GALLERY. 
 
 The Art Gallery is 250 feet long by 100 feet 
 wide. It is a structure built of iron. The build- 
 ing is an elegant and artistic structure, so arranged 
 for mounting, accessibility and light as to present 
 the best effects, and with ample accommodation 
 
148 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 for as large a collection as was ever exhibited on 
 this hemisphere. It is fireproof — even the par- 
 titions being of iron. 
 
 FACTORY AND MILL, 
 
 This is a large iron building 350 feet long by 
 120 feet wide. In it will be exhibited cotton in 
 all stages of manipulation from the boll to the bale. 
 The newly invented "Cotton Pickers, Openers and 
 Lappers," as well as the various and complex 
 machinery for ginning, cleaning, bailing and com- 
 pressing, will be in constant operation. The sup- 
 ply of field cotton for this purpose will be abun- 
 dant. 
 
 In addition to cotton machinery this extension 
 of Machinery Hall will contain the various kinds 
 of machinery used in the rolling of cane and 
 manufacture of sugar, and the harvesting and mill- 
 ing of rice. 
 
 Various kinds of factory and mill machinery for 
 wood working, brick and tile making, etc., will be 
 located in this structure. Adjacent to this build- 
 ing there will be a line of sawmills, extending to- 
 ward the river showing forty sawmills in motion. 
 
 THE MEXICAN HEADQUARTERS. 
 
 This is a structure of striking beauty, erected 
 by the Mexican Government and fashioned after 
 
THE EXPOSITION. I49 
 
 the Style of a Mexican senor's residence. It is a 
 quadrangle, with a frontage of 190 feet and a 
 depth of 300 feet. Round its open interior or 
 courtyard, runs a terraced gallery, supporting a 
 collection of the rarest plants and flowers and the 
 most gorgeous birds of that famous land, seeming 
 like a hanging garden. Surmounted at each cor- 
 ner and in the centre of its front with light and 
 graceful turrets, and painted in Oriental combina- 
 tions of gold and green, with mediums of maroon 
 and touches here and there of intense red, its 
 Moresque style will attract and please the Vision 
 and give a fair idea of the taste and characteristics 
 of the Mexican people, and fairly prepare the* vis- 
 itors for their wonderful exhibit. While intended 
 simply as the headquarters of the Mexican con- 
 tingent, it will, however, contain in two apart- 
 ments, sixty-four by thirty-two feet, most attract- 
 ive bazars of Mexican art-work and bric-a-brac, 
 feathers, wax, pottery, and all the minute artistic 
 creations for which that country is so justly fam- 
 ous. Thus, in one building, the social and official 
 forms, the military organizations, the architectural 
 methods, and the light and delicate arts of our 
 next-door neighbors will be most exquisitely and 
 elaborately illustrated. 
 
150 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 SPECIAL FEATURES. 
 
 The special features of the World's Exposition 
 are so numerous and so striking that it virtually 
 necessitates classing them as general. What are 
 termed as ''tropical displays" will be special to 
 this Exposition and so extensive as almost to be a 
 leading feature. In fruits, flowers, plants and 
 forestry, in cultivated products, in export woods, 
 in minerological samples, in native manufactured 
 products, in rich archaeological stores, the exhibits 
 of Mexico, the countries of Central and South 
 America and the West Indies will be complete 
 and comprehensive, unitedly composing an ex- 
 traordinary exposition. The general government 
 exhibits will in magnitude and variety far exceed 
 the magnificent display made at the Philadelphia 
 Centennial. The cotton exhibit, from the weed to 
 the fabric, through numerous and wondrous pro- 
 cesses, will be an unusual attraction. The same 
 can be said of the sugar-cane and the rice plant, 
 the processes of cultivation, harvesting and man- 
 ufacturing, all being practically demonstrated. 
 The live-stock display will be a very interesting 
 feature. It includes not only cattle, horses, 
 mules, sheep, hogs, poultry and pet stock, but 
 that useful animal — the dog. A very liberal pre- 
 mium list offered in this department will insure a 
 
THE EXPOSITION. I5I 
 
 large representation. The electrical display will 
 be complete, demonstrating the wonderful prog- 
 ress in this line in all descriptions of invention 
 and use. The machinery exhibit will be enor- 
 mous, it will present in detail the culmination of 
 this, the greatest of all inventive, eras. The de- 
 velopments of the past few years will afford ma- 
 terial that will be a source of continual wonder- 
 ment to the visitor. The exposition of woman's 
 work is a feature exciting earnest consideration. 
 The exhibit will display her work in all the phases 
 of her taste, skill and industry : an attempt at 
 enumeration would be futile. In all that her hand 
 may do or her taste may influence, evidences will 
 be abundantly present. Another and an equally 
 interesting feature is the department devoted to 
 an exposition of the work and progress of the 
 colored race. The identification of the colored 
 race with the material progress and the develop- 
 ment of the great natural resources of the South, 
 and the influence of so large a portion of her pop- 
 ulation upon her prosperity, renders this demon- 
 stration of their educational and industrial prog- 
 ress and advancement eminently appropriate. 
 The Board of Management, appreciating the fit- 
 ness and propriety of such a feature, and to afford 
 every incentive for the fullest and most thorough 
 exposition, has assigned the sum of ;^50,ooo to 
 
152 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 assist those engaged in the work of preparation. 
 The colored people have entered into the work 
 with great enthusiasm and the promises are bright 
 -for a most interesting and magnificent display. 
 
 OUTSIDE FEATURES. 
 
 Outside of the Exposition proper, the interest 
 in it and its magnitude will attract many import- 
 ant enterprises and features. An international 
 drill, in which, besides the volunteer soldiery, 
 companies of the regular army will be invited to 
 participate, and the companies of the Mexican 
 army and of the Spanish army in Cuba, together 
 with the soldiery of any other nation present, will 
 be invited to take part, and which will be a feature 
 of international interest. During the station of 
 the United States fleet in the river bordering the 
 Exposition grounds (already promised by the Sec- 
 retary of the Navy), a sham naval and land battle 
 is contemplated. 
 
 A large number of organizations of national 
 reputation and extent have already arranged for 
 their annual convocations at New Orleans during 
 the period of the Exposition. 
 
 The carnival pageants, occurring about the 
 middle of the Exposition period, will be the most 
 elaborate and brilliant of this world-wide famed 
 festival. 
 
THE EXPOSITION. 153 
 
 Three regular first-class theatres, two grand 
 opera houses and one grand French and Italian 
 opera house, will be open during the Exposition. 
 
 Grand concerts, vocal and instrumental, will be 
 given regularly in Music Hall in the main build- 
 ing. The largest organ ever built for an Exposi- 
 tion is being built expressly for the World's Ex- 
 position. 
 
 LOCAL EXCURSIONS. 
 
 The opportunities for these pleasurable and in- 
 structive pastimes are almost innumerable in the 
 Crescent City. By water, fresh or salt, to nearly 
 every point of the compass. Elegant steamboats 
 ply from New Orleans, covering the Mississipi, to 
 its famed delta and its numerous lower tributaries, 
 penetrating the enchanting waters of interminable 
 bayous, bordered with rich canefields and shaded 
 with the live oak. Steamers sail regularly between 
 the city shores of Lake Ponchartrain and its north 
 shores and the sound watering places, and down 
 the Mississippi into the Gulf to the shores and 
 Keys of Florida, to the coast places of Texas, 
 Mexico, Central America, the Carribean Isles and 
 the West Indies. By rail, the ''Land of Flow- 
 ers" is reached in a few hours, and every promi- 
 nent southern point, even to the City of Mexico, 
 becomes conveniently accessible. 
 
154 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 ACCOMMODATION. 
 
 A matter of the utmost importance to the visit- 
 or is the question of accommodation ; with this, 
 as to character, comfort or safety, in doubt, large 
 numbers would be debarred from attendance. 
 The Board of Management early realized the im- 
 portance of the subject and took prompt and ef- 
 fective steps in the matter. A department of ac- 
 commodation and information has been organized. 
 The city is being thoroughly canvassed, divided 
 into districts and sub-districts, each having con- 
 nection with the central office by telephone, tele- 
 graph or messenger service. All of the accom- 
 modation of the city is being listed and classified, 
 its character and rate of charges determined, so 
 that no imposition or extortion can prevail, and 
 the promptest information and assistance will be 
 at all times available to the visitor. No charge 
 for this service will be made either against citizen 
 or visitor. 
 
 In a city with 250,000 inhabitants, in a climate 
 like that of the Crescent City, with houses of more 
 than ample capacity, it will not be impossible to 
 secure comfortable and acceptable accommodation 
 for fifty thousand extra people. Besides the ac- 
 commodation assured within the city precincts, 
 the Mississippi Sound coast for a distance of more 
 than forty miles is lined with a succession of fine 
 
THE EXPOSITION. 155 
 
 hotels and comfortable boarding houses for sum- 
 mer and winter resort, all within an hour and a half 
 to two hours ride of the city. Accommodation 
 for thousands of people can be obtained. Border- 
 ing the Gulf shore, in the midst of the pine, live 
 oak, the orange and the magnolia, with numerous 
 mineral springs, superb facilities for fishing, sail- 
 ing and hunting, with the mild yet bracing salt air 
 of the sea, with constant communication with the 
 city by luxuriously furnished and rapid trains, 
 tarrjang at these resorts will be found wonderfully 
 attracting and compensating. In addition to the 
 accommodations now afforded numerous hotel 
 companies are preparing to establish capacious 
 buildings near the grounds. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 The temperature of New Orleans from the ist 
 of December to the last of May averages about 
 sixty-five degrees, Fahr. The thermometer very 
 seldom falls below the freezing point and then but 
 for a day or two. The weather during this period 
 is almost invariably clear, sunshiny and pleasant, 
 while in general healthfulness it will compare with 
 any section of the Union. 
 
 During this period foliage, fields and the forests 
 retain their vernal hue, many kinds of fresh vege- 
 tables are in season, various kinds of fruit ripen, 
 
156 THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 while the orange and nearly all of the tropical 
 fruits are in their prime. 
 
 During this same period the wharves of the city- 
 are lined with the sail and steam craft of all na- 
 tions, and hardly a day passes without the depart- 
 ure or arrival of some vessel to or from nearly all 
 parts of the habitable globe. 
 
 Six trunk lines of railway centre at New Or- 
 leans and furnish rapid and luxurious transit to all 
 points of the compass except gulfward. By water 
 regular lines of palatial steamers ply between St. 
 Louis and Cincinnati and the Crescent City, and 
 cover all navigable tributaries of the great river. 
 
 Gates open at 9 a. m. Admission, 50 cents ; 
 children in arms half price, all others full rates. 
 No money received at the gates except United 
 States silver half dollars. 
 
GUIDE. 
 
 157 
 
 GUIDE. 
 
 HOTELS, 
 
 St. Charles Hotel. . . 
 
 Hotel Royal 
 
 Hotel Vonderbanck. 
 
 City Hotel 
 
 Cassidy's Hotel 
 
 Southern Hotel 
 
 Hotel Denechaud. . . 
 
 Lally's Hotel 
 
 Waver) y House 
 
 Hotel Chalmette 
 
 Stock Dealers' Hotel 
 West End Hotel.... 
 Carondelet House.. 
 Edwards House.... 
 
 Herron House 
 
 Oviatt House 
 
 Perry House 
 
 Arlington Hotel. . . . 
 Allen House .... 
 
 BOARDING HOUSES. 
 
 LOCATION. 
 
 St. Charles and Common Sts. 
 
 Royal and St. Louis Sts 
 
 40 Magazine St 
 
 Camp, Cor. Common St 
 
 40 Carondelet St 
 
 Carondelet and Julia Sts 
 
 56 to 64 Carondelet St 
 
 Cor. St. Charles & Poydras Sts. 
 Foydras, N.W. Cor. Camp St. 
 
 98 St. Charles St 
 
 Echo St 
 
 West End 
 
 88 Carondelet St 
 
 135 Camp St 
 
 225 Canal St 
 
 II Dauphine St 
 
 13 St. Charles St. 
 
 116 Camp St 
 
 288 Canal St 
 
 PROPRIETORS— LOCATION. 
 
 Private House Mrs. M.A.Clark, 7 Carondelet. 
 
 Mrs. C. Holland, 155 Clio 
 
 Jno. A. Braun, iii St. Charles 
 
 J . C. Hood, 95 St. Charles. . . . 
 
 Wm. Progel, 106 St. Charles. 
 
 Mrs. M. A. Russell, 116 Camp 
 
 Mrs. M. Lee, 130 Camp 
 
 Mrs. D. Herricic, 198 Camp. . 
 
 Mrs. A. E. Heard, 196 Camp. 
 
 . . ... Mrs. L. Arnold, 215 Poydras. 
 
 Mrs. M. Arnold, 193 Canal.. 
 
 Mrs. M. Becker, 233 Gravier.. 
 
 Mrs. B. Behan, 2 South 
 
 Mrs. A. Bell, 51 Girod 
 
 Mrs. A. Bond, 211 Carondelet 
 
 Mrs.J . W. Baum, 1 1 iSt. Charles 
 
 Mrs. J. Burst, 175 Magazine. . 
 
 Mrs. A. Burns, 164 Julia . . . - 
 
 PER DAY» 
 $4.00 
 4.00 
 1. 00 to 3.00 
 
 2.50 
 
 3.00 
 2.50 to 3.00 
 1. 00 to 3.00 
 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 
 T.OOtO 2.00 
 
 2.50 to 3.00 
 
 2.00 
 1.50 
 2.00 
 
 1. 00 to 2.00 
 
 2.00 
 2.50 to 3.00 
 
 PER DAY. 
 
 $1.50 to $2.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 1. 00 to 2.50 
 
 2.00 
 2.00 
 
 2.00 to 4.00 
 1. 00 to 3.00 
 2.50 to 3.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 1.50 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.50 * » 
 
 3.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 X.50 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.00 to 2.50 
 
158 
 
 GUIDE. 
 
 Private House Mrs. I. Cavaros, i6i Camp.. 2.50 
 
 Mrs. M. A. Carey, 209 Camp. 3.CX) 
 
 Mrs. F. S. Chesley, 5 North.. 2.00 
 
 Mrs. G. Callier, 302 Canal... 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. B. Connell, 249 Baronne. 1.50 
 
 Mrs.A.C. Crane, 222 St. Joseph i. 00 to 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. R.Delerno, 227 Magazine. 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. E. Elam, 29 N. Rampart. 2.50 
 
 " Mrs. Emerson, 194 St. Charles. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. J. Fabien, 138 St. Charles. 1.75 
 
 " Mrs. M.Gernon,234St. Charles 7.50103.00 
 
 " Mrs. Gilham, 139 St. Charles. 1.75 to 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. E. M. Gilham, 211 Camp. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. M. Gogin, 106 Bombair.. 1.75 
 
 " Mrs. Harrison, 138 Carondelet. 1.50 
 
 " H. S. Kellogg, 67 Royal i. 00 to 2.00 
 
 " A.C.Malborough,i29Carond't 2.00 
 
 " M. McCormal, 161 Carondelet 1.75 
 
 " H. McDaniel, 148 Julia 2.00 
 
 " L. V. McFarland, 192 Julia. . 2.50 to 3.00 
 
 " C. E. Minor, 173 Camp 2,00 
 
 '• Kate Mawney, 190 Julia 1.50102.00 
 
 " A. Maunn, 164 Carondelet.. . . 2.00 
 
 " E. Penniston, 156 Julia 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. Goldsmith, 154 Carondel't 1,50102.00 
 
 " Mrs.Tora Rogers, 196 Baronne 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. C. Russell, 21 Dauphine. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. V. Street, 5 South 3.00 
 
 " Mrs. P.Schreiber, 225 Poydras. 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. Torian, 135 St. Charles. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. L. Trapolin, 123 Royal. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. C. Tuttle, 181 Camp.... 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. Kate Vetter, 90 Baronne. 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. A. Voisen, 135 Chartres. i.oo to 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. E.Walter, 256 Baronne. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. Welsh, 165 St. Charles. . 3.00 
 
 " H. Gernon, 135 St. Charles.. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs.D.Edwards,223 St. Joseph 1.50 
 
 " Mrs. M. Wall, 149 St. Joseph. 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. A. Can, 223 Camp 2.00 
 
 " Mrs.Redmond, 303 St. Charles 2.00 
 
 " Mrs. C. Williams. 310 Canal. 1.75 
 
 Additional lists of boarding houses can be obtained at the Bureau of 
 
 Information, 164 Gravier Street, opposite St. Charles Hotel. 
 
 Many of the steamers at the levee also offer excellent accommoda- 
 tions at about $2.00 a day for board and room. 
 
GUIDE. 159 
 
 RESTAURANTS. LOCATION. 
 
 Antoine's 65 St. Louis 
 
 Bergamini & Co 21 Royal 
 
 Bero Victor 31 Bourbon 
 
 Bezandin Lxjuis 113 Custom House. . 
 
 Borges' ' 109 Custom House. . 
 
 Boudousquie Henry 129 Gravier 
 
 Cassidy's 40 Carondelet 
 
 Cosmopolitan 13 & 15 Royal 
 
 Denechaud E. N 8 Carondelet 
 
 Detzel Jacob 135 Poydras 
 
 Egerton Mrs. E 31 Natchez 
 
 Excelsior 595 Magazine 
 
 Fabacher Joseph 23 Royal 
 
 Felicini Alexander 218 Magazine 
 
 Forget Philip 107 Custom House. . 
 
 Four Scasotis 1 1 1 Chartres 
 
 Frid's 106 St. Charles 
 
 John's 181 Canal 
 
 King Thomas 138 Dumain 
 
 Kissinger Bros 57 Gravier 
 
 Lebrun Lucien 13 St. Philip 
 
 Leon's 23 St. Charles 
 
 Licalzi Antonio 6 N. Rampart 
 
 Leynoz Pablo 209 Royal 
 
 Lukinonch Morco 192 Camp 
 
 Marchal Jules Mrs 19 Union 
 
 Meyer Bernard 200 Poydras 
 
 Moreau's 128 Canal , 
 
 Paichous Hypolite 93 St. Charles 
 
 Phoenix House 96 St. Charles 
 
 Pizzini's 182 Canal 
 
 Raphael Joseph 174 Custom House. 
 
 Schaefer Egbert 18 Exchange- Place . 
 
 Stecher Joseph . . . : 174 Gravier 
 
 Sugasti Everiste 9 St. Phiiip 
 
 Teen Elizabeth 85 Dauphine 
 
 Troyani S 52 St. Louis 
 
 Toumilla Jean 38 N. Franklm 
 
 Valerey N 108 Custom House. 
 
 Victor's 31 Bourbon 
 
 Vonderbanck 128 Common 
 
 Voorhies P. E 18 Royal 
 
 Walker A 63 Exchange Place. 
 
 West End Restaurant 8 Carondelet 
 
 Ziegler J 10 Royal 
 
l60 GUIDE. 
 
 EXCHANGES. 
 
 Cotton Exchange — Carondelet, corner Gravier 
 Street; Charles E. Black, President; Henry G. 
 Hester, Secretary. 
 
 Produce Exchange — 44 Magazine Street; E. K. 
 Converse, President; W. M. Smallweed, Secretary. 
 
 Stock Exchange — 29 Carondelet Street. • 
 
 Mexican Exchange — 124 Common Street. 
 
 Chamber of Commerce — Corner Gravier and 
 Carondelet streets. 
 
 Sugar Exchange — Corner Front and Bienville 
 streets. 
 
 Mechanic's and Lumberman's Exchange — 187 
 Gravier Street. 
 
 EXPRESS COMPANIES. 
 
 Wells, Fargo & Co — 18 and 20 Union Street. 
 
 Texas Express Co — 18 and 20 Union Street. 
 
 Southern Express Co — 18 and 20 Union Street. 
 
 Pacific Express Co — 20 Camp Street. 
 
 Baldwin's European and Havana Express Co — 
 163 Gravier Street. 
 
 New Orleans Express Co — 175 Common Street. 
 
 Davies & Co.'s Express — 48 Carondelet Street. 
 
 Merchant's & Citizen's Delivery Co — 88 Canal 
 Street. 
 
GUIDE. l6l 
 
 TELEGRAPH. 
 
 Western Union — 5 1 St. Charles Street 
 Baltimore & Ohio — (on the way). 
 American District — 47 Camp Street. 
 Towboat Telegraph — 159 Common Street. 
 Great Southern Telephone & Telegraph Co — 
 Corner Poydras and Carondelet Streets. 
 
 POSTOFFICE. 
 
 New Orleans Postoffice — Custom House Build- 
 ing, Canal Street ; W. B. Merchant, Postmaster ; 
 General Delivery window open from 8 a. m. to 5 
 p. M. Carriers make four deliveries and collections 
 a day in the central portion of the city. Money 
 Order and Register offices open from 9 a. m. to 
 4 p. M. The General Delivery, Carriers' and 
 Stamp windows open from 9 a, m. to 12 m. on 
 Sundays. 
 
 MARKETS. 
 
 French Market — North Peters and Decatur 
 Streets. 
 
 Magazine Market — Magazine Street. 
 
 Dryades Market — Dryades Street. 
 
 Poydras Market — Poydras Street. 
 
 Ninth Street Market — Ninth and Magazine 
 Streets. 
 
1 62 GUIDE. 
 
 Claiborne Market — Claiborne Street. 
 CarroUton Market — Carrollton Street. 
 St. Mary's Market — Annunciation Street. 
 Delamore Market — Elysian Fields and Claiborne 
 streets. 
 
 Jefferson City Market — Magazine Street. 
 Pilie Market — Poydras Street. 
 Second Street Market — Second Street. 
 Soraparu Market — Soraparu Street. ^ 
 
 St. Bernard Market — St. Bernard Avenue. 
 Treme Market — Orleans Street. 
 Washington Market — Chartres Street. 
 
 BANKS. 
 
 Citizen's Bank of Louisiana — Capital $1,050,- 
 000 ; 134 and 136 Gravier Street. 
 
 Germania National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
 $450,000; 102 Canal Street. 
 
 Hibernia National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
 $570,000 ; 17 Camp Street. 
 
 Louisiana National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
 ^1,200,000; 120 and 122 Common Street. 
 
 State National Bank — Capital and Surplus $775,- 
 000 ; 33 and 35 Camp Street. 
 
 Metropolitan Bank — Capital $250,000; 91 Canal 
 Street. 
 
 Union National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
 $600,000 ; corner Gravier and Carondelet Street. 
 
GUfDE. 163 
 
 Whitney National Bank — Capital ^400,000 ; 
 137 Gravier Street. 
 
 The People's National Bank — Capital ;^300,ooo ; 
 corner Decatur and Custom-house Street. 
 
 New Orleans National Bank — Capital and Sur- 
 plus ;^450,ooo; 54 Camp Street. 
 
 New Orleans Canal Banking Co. — Capital and 
 Surplus $1,200,000; corner Camp and Gravier 
 Street. 
 
 Mutual National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
 ;^375,ooo; 106 Canal Street. 
 
 Germania Savings Bank — Capital ^100,000; 
 17 Camp Street. 
 
 GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC. 
 
 Joseph A. Mower Post — Corner Camp and 
 Natchez streets. 
 
 Timothy O. Howe Post — 193 Gravier Street. 
 
 There are 50 Masonic Lodges, 24 Odd Fel- 
 lows Lodges, 12 Knights of Pythias Lodges, and 
 more societies, associations and clubs than any 
 other city in the Union of like population. 
 
 ROLLER RINKS. 
 
 Crescent City Roller Skating Rink — corner 
 Washington and Prytania streets. 
 
 Exposition Skating Rink — Washington Artil- 
 lerv Hall. Admission twenty-five cents. 
 
1 64 GUIDE. 
 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLIC. 
 
 Diocese of New Orleans — Most Rev. F. X. 
 Leray, archbishop. The archbishop's residence is 
 280 Chartres Street. 
 
 Annunciation Church — Mandeville, corner Ma- 
 rias Street. Rev. A. Durier, pastor. 
 
 Chapel of the Ursuline Convent — Third Dis- 
 trict. 
 
 Church of The Holy Name of Mary — Veret, 
 between Alix and Eliza streets ; Fifth District. 
 
 Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus — Canal, 
 between Lopez and Rendon streets. Rev. A. 
 Marine, pastor. 
 
 Holy Trinity Church (German) — St. Ferdinand, 
 between Royal and Dauphine. Rev. Peter L. 
 Thevis, pastor. 
 
 Jesuit's College and Church of the Immaculate 
 Conception — Baronne, between Canal and Com- 
 mon streets. 
 
 Mater Dolorosa Church — Cambronne, corner of 
 Burthe Street. Rev. A. Bichlmayer, pastor. 
 
 Mt. Carmel Chapel— 53 Piety Street. 
 
 Notre Dame de bon Secours — Jackson, between 
 Laurel and Constance streets. 
 
 St. Alphonsus — Constance, between St. Andrew 
 and Josephine streets. Rev. F. Girardey, pastor. 
 
GUIDE. 165 
 
 Our Lady of the Sacred Heart — North Clai- 
 borne, corner Annette Street. Rev. Celestin 
 Frain, pastor. 
 
 St. Ann's Church, St. Philip, between Roman 
 and Prieur streets. Rev. H. Tumoine, pastor. 
 
 St. Anthony's (Italian) — N. Rampart, corner of 
 Conti Street. Rev. J. A. Manoritta, pastor. 
 
 St. Augustin's Church — Hospital, corner St. 
 Claude Street. Rev. Joseph Subileau, pastor. 
 
 St. Boniface Church (German) — N. Galvez, cor- 
 ner Laharpe Street. Rev. Joseph Koegerl, pastor. 
 
 St. Francis De Sales — Second, corner St. David 
 Street. Rev. Nicholas Simon, pastor. 
 
 St. Henry's Church (German) — Berlin, between 
 Constance and Magazine streets. Rev. John Bog- 
 aerts, pastor. 
 
 St. John the Baptist Church — Dryades, between 
 Clio and Calliope streets. Rev. James D. Foote, 
 pastor. 
 
 St. Joseph's Church — Common, between Howard 
 and Villere streets. Rev. Richard J. Fitzgerald, 
 pastor. 
 
 St. Louis Cathedral — Chartres, between St. Ann 
 and St. Peter streets. Most Rev. F. X. Leray, 
 archbishop. 
 
 St. Mary's Assumption (German) — Josephine, 
 between Constance and Laurel streets. Rev. M. 
 Seimgruber, pastor. 
 
l66 GUIDE. 
 
 St. Joseph's Church — Gretna. Rev. Eugene 
 Frairing, pastor. 
 
 St. Mary's Church (Archbishop's residence) — 
 Chartres, between Ursuline and Hospital streets. 
 Rev. G. Raymond, D. D., pastor; Rev. Blane- 
 garin, assistant. 
 
 St. Mary's Church — Cambronne, between Sec- 
 ond and Burthe streets. Rev. R. Valle, pastor. 
 
 St. Maurice's Church — Hancock, corner Royal 
 Street. Rev. J. Dumas, pastor. 
 
 St. Michael's Church — Southeast side of Chip- 
 pewa, between Orange and Race streets. Rev. 
 Thomas Heslin, pastor. 
 
 St. Patrick's Church — Camp, between Girod and 
 Julia streets. Rev. P. F. Allen, pastor. 
 
 St. Peter and St. Paul's Church — Burgundy, 
 between Marigny and Mandeville streets. Rev. 
 J. Moynihan, pastor. 
 
 St. Rose de Lima Church — Bayou Road, be- 
 tween Dolhonde and Broad streets. Rev. F. Mit- 
 tlebron, pastor. 
 
 St. Stephen's Church — Napoleon Avenue, cor- 
 ner Camp street. Rev. Verrina, pastor. 
 
 St. Stephen's Church (old) — Camp, corner Ber- 
 lin Street. Rev. A. Verrina, pastor. 
 
 St. Theresa's Church — Erato, corner Camp 
 Street. Rev. P. M. L. Massardier, pastor; Rev. 
 Thomas Golden, assistant. 
 
GUIDE. » 167 
 
 St. Vincent de Paul — Dauphine, between Mon- 
 tegut and Clouet streets. Rev. A. F. X. Cha- 
 pins, pastor. 
 
 Trinity Church — Cambronne, near Second 
 Street. 
 
 PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL. 
 
 Diocese of Louisiana — Office, Trinity Church. 
 Rev. John N. Galleher, bishop. 
 
 Annunciation Church — Race, corner Camp 
 Street. Rev. John Percival, D. D., rector. 
 
 Calvary Church — Prytania, corner Conery 
 Street. Rev. W. R. Douglas, rector. 
 
 Christ Church — Canal, corner Dauphine Street-. 
 Alexander J. Drysdale, D. D., rector. 
 
 Mt. Calvary Church (colored) — St. Andrews, 
 southwest corner of Willow. 
 
 Mt. Olivet Church — Peter, corner Olivier Street. 
 Rev. C. S. Hedges, rector. 
 
 St. Anna's Church — 197 Esplanade Street. 
 Rev. J. F. Girault, rector. 
 
 St. George's Church — St. Charles Avenue, cor- 
 ner Cadiz Street. Rev. Samuel Wiggins, rector. 
 
 St. John's Church — Third, corner Annunciation 
 Street. Rev. S. Wiggins, rector. 
 
 St. Paul's Church — Camp, corner Gaiennie 
 Street. Rev. H. H. Waters, rector. 
 
 St. Philip's Church — Prytania, southwest cor- 
 
l68 GUIDE. 
 
 ner Calliope Street. Rev. C. H. Thompson, D. 
 D., rector. 
 
 Trinity Chapel — South Rampart, corner Enterpe 
 Street. Rev. Arthur W. Chapman, in charge. 
 
 Trinity Church — Jackson, corner Coliseum 
 Street. Rev. R. A. Holland, D. D., rector. 
 
 BAPTIST. 
 
 Amiazion Church — Deslonde, between Bur- 
 gundy and Rampart streets. Rev. Charles Will- 
 iams, pastor. 
 
 Austerlitz Church — Austerlitz, between Maga- 
 zine and Constance. Rev. G. W. Walker, pastor. 
 
 Coliseum Place Church — Camp, corner Terpsi- 
 chore Street. Rev. S. Landrum, pastor. 
 
 Fifth Equal Rights Church (colored) — 164 Val- 
 lette Street. Rev. Charles Mathews, pastor. 
 
 Fifth African Church — Howard, between Jack- 
 son and Philip streets. Rev. Henry White, pas- 
 tor. 
 
 First African Church — Gretna. Rev. Alexander 
 Armstrong, pastor. 
 
 First Church — Magazine, corner Second Street. 
 Rev. M. C. Cole, pastor. 
 
 First Free Mission Church — Broadway, between 
 Market and Magazine streets. Rev. Burnett 
 Brown, pastor. 
 
 First Free Mission Church — Adams, between 
 
GUIDE. 169 
 
 Burth and Third streets. Rev. Guy Burke, pas- 
 tor. 
 
 First Free Mission Church (colored) — 371 Com- 
 mon Street. Rev. A. S. Jackson, pastor. 
 
 Good Hope Second Baptist Church (old) — 63 
 Jackson Street. Rev. John Fleming, pastor. 
 
 Liberty Church — Marias, between Clouet and 
 Feliciana streets. 
 
 Little Zion Church — 269 Lafayette street. 
 
 Harvey's Canal African Church — Harvey's Ca- 
 nal, Fifth District. Elder Joseph Ross, pastor. 
 
 Mt. Moriah Church — Walnut, between Wall and 
 Esther streets. Rev. Henry Williams, pastor. 
 
 Mt. Sinai Baptist Church — Vallette, near the 
 corner of Eliza Street, Fifth District. Rev. 
 James Creagh, pastor. 
 
 Mt. Zion Church (colored) — Vallette, between 
 Alex and Evelina streets. Fifth District. Rev. N. 
 Ruffin, pastor. 
 
 Nazareth Church (colored) — ^Josephine, between 
 Annette and St. Anthony streets. Rev. Thomas 
 Jones, pastor. 
 
 New Light Church — Feliciana, between Robert- 
 son and Villere streets. Rev. William Patterson, 
 pastor. 
 
 New Hope Church — Gretna. Rev. Putney 
 Ward, pastor. 
 
 Pilgrim Church — Newton, between Monroe and 
 
I/O GUIDE. 
 
 Franklin ^streets, Fifth District. 'Rev.^Richard 
 Frazer, pastor. 
 
 Second African Baptist Churchr-:393 Melpo- 
 mene Street. Rev. Samuel Walker,- pastor. 
 
 Second African Church — Gretna .Rev. Ches- 
 ley Henderson, pastor. 
 
 Second Church (colored) — Laurel, between 
 Berlin and Milan streets. Rev. Henry Caldwell, 
 pastor. 
 
 Second Free Mission Church — Burdette, be- 
 tween Fourth and Plum streets Rev. H. Davis, 
 pastor. 
 
 Second Free Will Church — Urquhart, between 
 Marigny and Mandeville streets. Rev. J. B. 
 Meyers, pastor. 
 
 Seventh Church (colored) — Washington, be- 
 tween N. Robinson and Claiborne. 
 
 Shiloh Church (colored) — Perdido, between S. 
 Rocheblave and S. Dolhonde streets. Rev. H. C. 
 Green, pastor. 
 
 Sixth Church — Rousseau, between Felicity and 
 St. Mary's streets. Rev. John Marks, pastor. 
 
 St. John's Church (colored) — First, between 
 Howard and Freret streets. Rev. Robert Jessop, 
 pastor. 
 
 St. John's Church (colored) — St. Louis, between 
 N. Tonti and N. Rocheblave streets. 
 
 St. Luke's Church — Cypress, between Prieur 
 
GUIDE. 171 
 
 and Johnson streets. Rev. Louis Taylor, pastor. 
 
 St. Mark's Fourth African Church — Magnolia, 
 between Common and Gravier streets. Rev. R. 
 H. Steptoe, pastor. 
 
 St. Peter's Church^New Orleans, between 
 Roman and Derbigny streets, Rev.N.Geddridge, 
 pastor. 
 
 St Peter's Church (colored) — Cadiz, corner Col- 
 iseum Street. Rev. H. B. Parks, pastor. 
 
 Third African Church — 310N. Roman, between 
 Laharpe and Columbus streets. Rev. George W. 
 Merritt, pastor. 
 
 Union Church (colored) — 427 St. Peter Street. 
 Rev W H. Bolding, pastor. 
 
 Union Church (colored) — 305 Orleans Street. 
 Rev. John Holmes, Pastor. 
 
 Zion Traveler Church (colored) — Water, be- 
 tween Walnut and Chestnut streets. Sixth District. 
 Rev. Thomas Evans, pastor 
 
 Zion Traveler Church Branch (colored) — Laurel, 
 between Amelia and Perriston streets. 
 
 METHODIST EPISCOPAL. 
 
 Ames Church — St. Charles, corner Calliope 
 Street. Rev. J. G. Vaugn, pastor. 
 
 Clinton Street Church (colored) — Clinton, cor- 
 ner Pearl Street, Seventh District. Rev Prince 
 King, pastor. 
 
172 GUIDE. 
 
 First German Church — South Franklin, corner 
 St. Andrew Street. Rev. D. Mathaei, pastor. 
 
 First Street Church (colored) — Winan's Chapel 
 — Dryades, near corner First Street. Rev. T. G., 
 Montgomery, pastor. 
 
 Jefferson Street German Church — Jefferson,, 
 corner Plum Street, Seventh District. 
 
 Laharpe Street Church (colored) — Laharpe,. 
 between North Roman and North Prieur streets. 
 
 Mt. Zion Church (colored) — :Jackson, near Lo- 
 cust Street. Rev. J. F. Marshall, pastor. 
 
 Mt. Zion Church (colored) — Desire, betweert 
 Marias and Urquehart streets. 
 
 Pleasant Plains Chapel (colored) — 290 Perdido- 
 Street. Rev. James D. Hudson, pastor. 
 
 Plum Street Church — Plum, between Leonidas 
 and Monroe streets, Seventh District. Rev.Wm. 
 Murel, pastor. 
 
 New Methodist Church — Constance, southwest 
 corner Octavia Street. Rev. M. Parker, pastor. 
 
 Sixth Street Church — Sixth, between Annunci- 
 ation and Laurel streets. Rev. Morris J. Dyer, 
 pastor. 
 
 Second German Church — Eighth Street, south- 
 east corner Laurel. Rev. J. A. Traeger, pastor. 
 
 Simpson Chapel (colored) — West Valence, be- 
 tween Camp and Chestnut streets. Rev. Joseph 
 Gould, pastor. 
 
GUIDE. 173 
 
 St. James' African Church — North Roman, 
 between Custom-house and Bienville streets. 
 Rev. Henry B. Parks, pastor. 
 
 Third German Church — North Rampart, between 
 Ferdinand and Press streets. Rev.W. H. Traeger, 
 pastor. 
 
 Thompson Chapel (colored) — Rampart, corner 
 Washington. Rev. R. L. Beal, pastor. 
 
 Union Bethel Church (colored) — South Frank- 
 lin, corner Thalia street. Rev. J. R. Grimes, 
 pastor. 
 
 Union Chapel (colored) — Bienville, between 
 Villere and Marias streets. Rev. Stephen Priestly, 
 pastor. 
 
 Union Chapel — 181 Union Street, Third District. 
 Rev. Jesse Cummings, pastor. 
 
 Wesley Chapel (colored) — South Liberty, be- 
 tween Perdido and Poydras streets. Rev. S. 
 Davage, pastor. 
 
 Zion African Church — Frenchman, corner of 
 Josephine street. 
 
 METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, SOUTH. 
 
 Algiers Church — Lavergne, corner Delaronde 
 Street. Rev. James L. Wright, pastor. 
 
 Dryades Street German Church — Dryades, be- 
 tween Euterpe and Felicity. Rev. I. B. A. Ahrens, 
 pastor. 
 
174 GUIDE. 
 
 Carondelet Street Church — 147 Carondelet 
 Street. Rev. Felix R. Hill, pastor. 
 
 Craps Street Church — 575 Burgundy. Street. 
 Rev. Wm. Leiser, pastor. 
 
 Felicity Church — Felicity, southeast corner 
 Chestnut Street. Rev. C. W. Carter, pastor- 
 Little Bethel Church — Coliseum, between Va- 
 lence and Bordeaux streets. 
 
 Louisiana Avenue Church — Louisiana Avenue, 
 corner Magazine Street. Rev, A. C. Coey, pastor. 
 
 Moreau Street Church — Chartres late (Moreau) 
 street, corner Lafayette Avenue. Rev. James J. 
 Billingsley, pastor. 
 
 Soraparu Church — Soraparu, between Chippewa 
 and Annunciation streets. Rev. P. H. Henesch, 
 pastor. 
 
 St. Charles Street Church — St. Charles, corner 
 General Taylor Street. Rev. Bernard Carradine, 
 pastor. 
 
 St. John's Chapel (colored) — Market, near Pow- 
 derhouse Street, Fifth District. 
 
 PRESBYTERIAN. 
 
 Canal Street Church — Canal, corner Derbigny. 
 Rev. A. N. Wyckoff, pastor. 
 
 First German Presbyterian Church — First, near 
 Laurel Street. Rev. L. Voss, pastor. 
 
 First Presbyterian Church — Lafayette Square, 
 
GUIDE. 175 
 
 corner Church and South streets. Rev. B. M. 
 Palmer, pastor. 
 
 First Presbyterian Church of Carrollton — Bur- 
 dette, between Hampton and Second streets. Rev. 
 A. J. Witherspoon, pastor. 
 
 Franklin Street Memorial Church — South Frank- 
 lin, N. W. corner Euterpe. Rev. J. Wm. Flinn, 
 pastor. 
 
 Lafayette Presbyterian Church — Magazine, be- 
 tween Jackson and Philip streets. Rev. T. R. 
 Markham, pastor. 
 
 Napoleon Avenue Presbyterian Church — Napo- 
 leon Avenue, corner Coliseum Street. Rev. R. Q. 
 Mallard, pastor. 
 
 Prytania Street Presbyterian Church — Prytania, 
 corner Josephine Street. Rev. James H. Nalle, 
 pastor. 
 
 Seaman's Bethel and Reading Room — East St. 
 Thomas, between Jackson and Philip streets. 
 Rev. A. J. Witherspoon, chaplain. 
 
 Seaman's Bethel — No. 9 Esplanade Street. 
 Rev. L. H. Pease, chaplain. 
 
 Second German Presbyterian Church — St. Ber- 
 nard, corner North Claiborne Street. Rev. Otto 
 F. Koelle, pastor. 
 
 Second Mission Church — Laurel, corner of 
 Pleasant Street. Rev. A. J. Witherspoon, pastor. 
 
1/6 GUIDE. 
 
 Third Presbyterian Church — Washington Square. 
 Rev. H. M. Smith, pastor. 
 
 LUTHERAN. 
 
 Evangelical Lutheran St. Paul's Church — 426 
 North Claiborne Street. Rev. Niles J. Bakke, 
 pastor. 
 
 Emmanuel Evangelical Lutheran Church — St. 
 Louis, between Johnson and Prieur streets. Rev. 
 J. F. Doescher, pastor. 
 
 First Evangelical Lutheran Church — Camp, 
 near Soniat Street. Rev. Owen Reidy, pastor. 
 
 Mt. Zion Evangelical Luthern Church — Frank- 
 lin, southwest corner Thalia. Rev. G. N. Blake, 
 pastor. 
 
 St. John's Church — Custom-House, corner 
 North Prieur Street. Rev. T. Steinake, pastor. 
 
 St. Paul's Church — Port, corner Burgundy 
 Street, Rev. Christian G. Moedinger, pastor. 
 
 Trinity Church — Olivier, corner Eliza Street, 
 Fifth District. Rev. George Franke, pastor. 
 
 Zion Church — St. Charles, corner St. Andrew 
 Street. Rev. P. Roesner, pastor. 
 
 EVANGELICAL PROTESTANT. 
 
 Bethlehem Church — 368 Felicity Street. Rev. 
 Henry Kleinhagen, pastor. 
 
 German Evangelical Church — Jackson, south- 
 
GUIDE. 177 
 
 west corner Chippewa Street. Rev. L. P. Heintz, 
 pastor. 
 
 First Church — Milan, corner Camp Street. 
 Rev. Julius C. Kraemer, pastor. 
 
 German Protestant Church — Zimple, between 
 Leonidas and Monroe streets, Seventh District. 
 Rev. Louis Rague, pastor. 
 
 German Protestant Church — Gretna. 
 
 German Protestant Church — Clio, between St. 
 Charles and Carondelet streets. Rev. August 
 •Gehrke, pastor. 
 
 Madison Street Church — Madison, between 
 Eurthe and Third streets. Seventh District. Rev. 
 P. Ziemer, pastor. 
 
 German Evangelical Protestant Church — 36 
 IMorth Derbigney Street, Rev. J. H. Perpeet, 
 pastor. 
 
 UNITARIAN. 
 
 Church of the Messiah — St. Charles, corner of 
 Julia Street. Rev. Charles A. Allen, pastor. 
 
 GREEK. 
 
 Greek Church of the Holy Trinity — North Dol- 
 honde, between Barracks and Hospital streets. 
 Rev. K. Michel, curate. 
 
 CHRISTIAN. 
 
 First Christian Church — Camp, corner Melpo- 
 mene Street. Rev. W. L. Gibson, pastor. 
 
178 GUIDE. 
 
 CONGREGATIONAL. 
 
 Algiers Church (colored) — Vallette, near Eliza 
 Street. 
 
 Central Church (colored) — S. Liberty, corner 
 Clasquet Street. Rev. Robert Alexander, pastor. 
 
 Howard Church (colored) — Spain, between Ram- 
 part and St. Claude Streets. Rev. H. A. Ruffin, 
 pastor. 
 
 Morris Brown Church (colored) — Marais, be- 
 tween Bourbon and Union streets, Third District. 
 
 Morris Brown Chapel, No. 2 (colored) — 471 
 Villere Street, Third District. 
 
 JEWISH. 
 
 Chevre Redushe Mikveh Israel Synagogue — 165 
 Dryades Street. Rev. Albert Silverstein, rabbi. 
 
 Touro Synagogue — 218 Carondelet Street. Rev. 
 Isaac H. Leucht, rabbi. 
 
 Gates of Prayer — Jackson, between Chippewa 
 and Annunciation streets. 
 
 Temple o( Sinai — East Carondelet, between 
 Delord and Calliope streets. Rev. J. K; Gutheim. 
 rabbi. 
 
 The Right Way — Carondelet, between Poydras 
 and Lafayette streets. M. A. Seiferth, acting 
 rabbi. 
 
GUIDE. 179 
 
 ASYLUMS. 
 
 Asylum for Destitute Orphan Boys — St. Charles, 
 between Dufossat and Belle Castle, Jefferson City, 
 
 Asylum cf the Holy Family — 40 St. Bernard 
 Avenue. 
 
 Asylum of the Immaculate Conception — Ram- 
 part, northeast corner Elmira. 
 
 Asylum of the Little Sisters of the Poor — 
 North Johnson, corner Laharpe, branch 965 Maga- 
 zine. 
 
 Beauregard Asylum — Pauline, between St. 
 Charles and Rampart. 
 
 Female Asylum of the Immaculate Conception 
 — 871 North Rampart, corner Elmira. 
 
 German Protestant Asylum — State, between 
 Camp and Chestnut. 
 
 Girard Asylum — Metairie Road, between Conti 
 and St. Louis. 
 
 Indigent Colored Orphan Asylum — 393 Dau- 
 phine. 
 
 Jewish Widows and Orphans Asylum — Jack- 
 son, corner Chippewa. 
 
 Louisiana Retreat Insane Asylum — Henry Clay 
 Avenue, between Camp and Coliseum. 
 
 Lutheran Bethlehem Orphan Asylum — North 
 Peters, between Andry and Flood. 
 
 Mt. Carmel Female Orphan Asylum — 53 Piety 
 Street. 
 
l80 GUIDE. 
 
 New Orleans Female Orphan Asylum — Clio, be- 
 tween Camp and Prytania. 
 
 Poydras Orphan Asylum for Females — Maga- 
 zine, between Leontine and Peters Avenue. 
 
 Providence Asylum for Colored Female Chil- 
 dren — Hospital corner North Tonti. 
 
 Societe Francaise de Bienfaisance Asylum — St. 
 Ann, between Derbigney and North Roman. 
 
 St. Alphonsus Orphan Asylum — Fourth, corner 
 St. Patrick. 
 
 St. Anna's Asylum — Prytania, corner St. Mary. 
 
 St. Elizabeth Orphan Asylum — Napoleon Ave- 
 nue, corner Prytania. 
 
 St. Joseph's Orphan Asylum — Josephine, cor- 
 ner Laurel. 
 
 St Mary's Orphan Boys' Asylum — Chartres, 
 between Mozart and French. 
 
 St. Vincent Half Orphan Asylum — Cambronne, 
 between Second and Burthe. 
 
 St. Vincent's Orphan Asylum — Magazine, cor- 
 ner Race. 
 
 Widows' and Orphans' Father Turgis Asylum 
 for Widows and Orphans of the South — St. Claude, 
 corner Pauline. 
 
 Boys' House of Refuge — Metairie Road, betwecK 
 Bienville and Conti. 
 
 Children's Home (Protestant Episcopal)— Jack- 
 son, corner St. Thomas Street. 
 
GUfDE. I8l 
 
 Children's Home (colored) — 40 South Liberty. 
 
 Faith Home for the Aged and Destitute — 
 Pitt, corner Robert. 
 
 Fink Home — Camp, between Antonie and 
 Amelia. 
 
 Home for the Aged and Infirm — Carondelet, 
 corner Nashville. 
 
 House of Refuge for Destitute Girls — -Annun- 
 ciation, corner Calliope. 
 
 House of the Sisters of Christian Charity — 
 Constance, between Berlin and Milan. 
 
 Industrial School and Model Farm of Our Lady 
 of the Holy Cross — North Peters, corner Reynes. 
 
 Little Sisters of the Poor — North Johnson, cor- 
 ner Laharpe. 
 
 Newsboys' Home — 22 Bank Place. 
 
 Protestant Orphans' Home — Seventh, corner 
 Constance. 
 
 Shakespearean Alms House — Rampart, between 
 Nashville and Arabella. 
 
 CONVENTS. 
 
 Convent de St. Famille — 172 Hospital. 
 
 Convent of Our Lady of Lourdes — 315 Char- 
 tres. 
 
 Convent of Our Lady of Mercy — j6 Chippewa. 
 
 Convent of Perpetual Adoration— Marias, be- 
 tween Mandeville and Spain. 
 
l82 GUIDE. 
 
 Convent of Mt. Carmel — Olivier , corner Eliza. 
 
 Convent of the Benedictine Nuns — 630 Dau- 
 phine. 
 
 Convent of the Good Shepherd — Bienville, N. 
 Dolhonde and N. Broad. 
 
 Convent of the Redemptionists — Constance, be- 
 tween St. Andrew and Josephine. 
 
 Convent of the Sacred Heart — Gretna, 
 
 Convent of the Sacred Heart — 96 Dumaine. 
 
 Convent of the Sisters of Notre Dame — Laurel, 
 between St. Andrew and Josephine. 
 
 Convent of the Sisters of the Holy Family — 17 
 Orleans. 
 
 Mt. Carmel Convent — 90 Oliver. 
 
 Mt. Carmel Convent — 200 Hospital. 
 
 St. Alphonsus Convent of Mercy — St. Andrew, 
 between Constance and Magazine. 
 
 St. Boniface Convent — Lapeyrouse, between 
 Miro and Tonti. . 
 
 St. Henry's Convent — Constance, between Milan 
 and Berlin. 
 
 St. Joseph's Convent — St. Philip, corner N. 
 Galvez. 
 
 St. Mary's Dominican Convent — Dryades, cor- 
 ner Calliope. 
 
 St. Mater Doloroso Convent — Cambronne, cor- 
 ner Third. 
 
 Ursuline Convent — Norfii Pclers, near Manuel. 
 
GurDE. 183 
 
 St. Patrick's Convent of Mercy — 139 Maga- 
 zine. 
 
 HOSPITALS. 
 
 Charity Hospital — Common, between Howard 
 and Locust. 
 
 Hospital de la Famille (for colored widows) — 41 
 St. Bernard Avenue. 
 
 Hotel Dieu — Common, between Bertrand and 
 South Johnson. 
 
 Luzenburg Hospital — 431 Elysian Fields. 
 
 Smallpox Hospital — South Hagan Avenue, 
 between Canal and Common. 
 
 INFIRMARIES. 
 
 Circus Street Infirmary — 132 and 134 South 
 Rampart. 
 
 Touro Infirmary — Prytania, between Amelia 
 and Delachaise. 
 
 Infirmary of the Sisters of Charity — Hotel 
 Dieu. 
 
 Camp NichoUs' Soldiers' Home — Bayou St. 
 John, foot of Esplanade. 
 
 CEMETERIES. 
 
 American — North Basin, between St. Louis and 
 Conti. 
 
l84 GUIDE. 
 
 Carrollton — Between Adams and Lowerline 
 streets. 
 
 Cemetery of the Evangelical Lutheran St. John's 
 Church — Canal Street, between Anthony and 
 Bernadotte. 
 
 Charity Hospital, No, i — Canal Street, between 
 Anthony and Metairie Ridge streets. 
 
 Charity Hospital, No. 2 — Metairie Road, be- 
 tween Canal and Bienville. 
 
 Cypress Grove — Metairie Road, corner Canal 
 Street. 
 
 Fireman's — Canal Street, corner Metairie Road. 
 
 Girod Street — South Liberty, between Perril- 
 liat and Cypress streets. 
 
 Hebrew — Elysian Fields Street, near Gentilly 
 Road. 
 
 Hebrew Association — Canal, between Anthony 
 and Bernadotte streets. 
 
 Hebrew Congregation Dispersed of Judah — 
 Canal, between Anthony Street and Metairie Road. 
 
 Hebrew — Jackson, between South Basin and 
 South Franklin streets. 
 
 Lafayette, No. i — Washington Avenue, between 
 Coliseum and Prytania streets. 
 
 Lafayette, No. 2 — Washington Avenue, be- 
 tween South Basin and St. David streets. 
 
 Locust Grove — Sixth, between Locust and Fer- 
 ret streets. 
 
GUIDE. 185 
 
 Masonic — Bienville Street, between Metarie 
 Road and Anthony Street 
 
 Metarie Cemetery Association — Canal, between 
 St. Patrick and Bernadotte streets. 
 
 Odd Fellows' Rest — Canal Street, corner Meta- 
 rie Road. 
 
 Olivier — Verret, corner Market Street, Fifth 
 District. 
 
 St. Joseph Orphan Asylum Cemetery — West 
 side Washington Avenue, between St. David and 
 South Liberty streets, 
 
 St. Louis, No. I — Between North Basin and 
 North Liberty. 
 
 St. Louis, No. 2 — Between Custom-House and 
 St. Louis, North Robertson and North Claiborne 
 streets. 
 
 St. Louis, No. 3 — Esplanade, near Jockey Club 
 House. 
 
 St. Mary — Between Adams and Lower, Seventh 
 and Eighth streets. 
 
 St. Patrick's, Nos. i and 2 — Canal, between 
 Anthony Street and Metairie Road. 
 
 St. Patrick's, No. 3 — Metairie Road, between 
 Canal and Bienville streets. 
 
 St. Vincent — North side St. Patrick, between 
 St. David and Green streets, Jefferson. 
 
 St. Vincent de Paul — Between Louisa and Piety, 
 Urquhart and Villere streets. 
 
1 86 GUIDE. 
 
 Greenwood — Metairie Road, corner Conti Street. 
 
 National Cemetery — Cbalmette. 
 
 Vallence Street — North side Rampart, between 
 Vallence and Bordeaux streets. 
 
 William Tell — Tenth, between Lavoisier and 
 Nerota streets, Gretna. 
 
 STREET CAR LINES TO EXPOSITION. 
 
 \_Separate cai^s are provided for sviokiiig and a7'e 
 indicated by their signboards?^ 
 
 ANNUNCIATION STREET LINE, RED CARS. 
 
 Start from Canal and Camp, up Tchoupitoulas 
 and Annunciation. Return by Chippewa, An^ 
 nunciation and South Peters. Red light at night; 
 every five minutes. 
 
 CANAL AND COLISEUM LINE, GREEN CARS. 
 
 Start from head of Canal Street, out Canal, up 
 Carondelet, Clio, Coliseum, Felicity, Chestnut, 
 Louisiana Avenue and Magazine. Return by 
 Magazine, Louisiana Avenue, Camp, Calliope and 
 St. Charles. Green light at night ; every live 
 minutes. 
 
 CAMP AND PRYTANIA LINE. 
 
 Yellow cars ; at night red light ; every five 
 minutes. Start from Clay Statue, up Camp and 
 
GUIDE. 187 
 
 Prytania. Return by Prytania, Poeyfare, Maga- 
 zine and Canal. 
 
 MAGAZINE STREET LINE. 
 
 Green cars ; at night white light ; every two 
 
 minutes ; after midnight every hour. Start from 
 
 Clay Statue, up Camp and Magazine. Return by 
 Magazine and Canal. 
 
 CARROLLTON LINE. 
 
 Green cars ; at night green light ; every five 
 minutes. Starts from Baronne and Canal, up 
 Baronne, Delord and St. Charles to station, where 
 dummy engines take the cars to the Exposition 
 Grounds and CarroUton. Return by the same 
 route. 
 
 TCHOUPITOULAS LINE. 
 
 Every five minutes; green cars; green lights. 
 Start from Canal and Camp and thence up Tchoup- 
 itoulas. Return by same route. 
 
 In progress : Steam cars from corner Hagan 
 Avenue and Canal to the Exposition. Steamers 
 also leave the head of Canal street for the Expo- 
 sition. 
 
 REMAINING STREET CAR LINES. 
 
 ^ Jackson Street Line every five minutes ; red 
 
I«« GUIDE. 
 
 cars and red lights. Start from Baronne and Ca- 
 nal, up Baronne, Delord, St. Charles and Jackson 
 to Gretna Ferry Landing. Return by same 
 route. 
 
 CANAL AND CLAIBORNE STREET LINE. 
 
 Yellow cars ; red lights ; every five minutes. 
 Start from head of Canal Street, out Canal, 
 up Claiborne, up Elysian Fields, down Ur- 
 quhart to Lafayette Avenue. Return by St. 
 Claude, Elysian Fields, Claiborne and Canal. 
 
 CANAL AND COMMON. 
 
 Yellow cars ; white lights ; every five minutes. 
 Start from head of Canal, out Canal, Rampart 
 and Common to station to Rocheblave street. Re- 
 turn by Common, Basin and Canal. 
 
 GIROD AND POYDRAS. 
 
 Every five minutes; yellow cars; green lights. 
 Start from head of Common Street, thence out 
 Front, Girod, Claiborne and Common to Roche- 
 blave Station. Return by Common, Claiborne, 
 Perdido, Poydras and Fulton. 
 
 CANAL STREET LINE. 
 
 Green cars and white light ; every seven min- 
 
GUIDE. 189 
 
 utes. Start from Clay Statue, out Canal to Green- 
 wood and Metairie Road Cemeteries. Return by- 
 same route. 
 
 ESPLANADE STREET LINE. 
 
 Yellow cars; red light; every five minufes; 
 every hour after midnight. Start from Clay 
 Statue, out Canal, Rampart, Esplanade to Louisi- 
 ana Jockey Club Race Course. Return by same 
 route. 
 
 ESPLANADE AND FRENCH MARKET LINE. 
 
 Yellow cars ; red light ; every eight minutes. 
 Start from Custom House and Canal Street, out 
 Peters and Esplanade to Jockey Club House and 
 Bayou Bridge. Return by same route. 
 
 I LEVEE AND BARRACKS LINE. 
 
 Green cars ; red light ; every five minutes. 
 Start from Canal at the Custom House, thence 
 out Peters, Lafayette Avenue, Chartres and Po- 
 land to Station. Here change cars for the United 
 States Barracks (without extra fare). Return by 
 Poland, Royal, Lafayette Avenue, Peters and 
 Canal. 
 
 RAMPART AND DAUPHINE LINE. 
 
 Red cars ; white light ; every five minutes. 
 Start from Clay Statue, out Canal, Rampart, Es- 
 
igO GUIDE. 
 
 planade, Dauphine and Poland to Station, thence 
 to Barracks and Slaughter-house. Return by 
 Rampart and Canal. 
 
 CANAL, DUMAINE AND BAYOU ST. JOHN LINE. 
 
 Blue cars and blue light ; every five minutes. 
 Start from Clay Statue, out Canal, Dauphine, Du- 
 maine. Bayou St. John and Grand Route, St. 
 John to Laharpe Street. Return by Broad, Ursu- 
 lines, (every third car by St. Peters) Burgundy 
 and Canal. 
 
 CANAL, DUMAINE AND FAIR GROUNDS LINE. 
 
 Green cars ; green lights ; every five minutes. 
 Start from Clay Statue, out Canal, Dauphine, 
 Dumaine and Broad to Fair Grounds. Return 
 by Broad, (every third car by St. Peters Street) 
 UrsuHnes, Burgundy and Canal. 
 
 FRENCH MARKET LINE. 
 
 Red cars; red light; every five minutes. Start 
 from Decatur, corner Dumaine, out Dumaine and 
 Broad to Fair Grounds. Return by Broad, Ursu 
 lines and Decatur. 
 
 JACKSON R. R. LINE. 
 
 Red cars ; red light; every five minutes. Start 
 
GUIDE. 191 
 
 from head ofvElysian Fields, up Royal, St, Charles, 
 Delord, Dryades and Clio to Jackson R. R. Depot. 
 Return by Erato, Carondelet, Bourbon, Esplan- 
 ade and Decatur. ' 
 
 RAMPART LINE. 
 
 Green cars; green light; every five minutes. 
 Start from Clay Statue, up St. Charles, Delord, 
 Dryades, St. Andrew and Baronne to station on 
 Eighth Street. Return by Baronne, Dryades, 
 Rampart and Canal. 
 
 CARONDELET STREET LINE. 
 
 White cars; white light; every five minutes. 
 Start from Clay Statue, up St. Charles, Delord 
 and Baronne to station on Eighth Street. Re- 
 turn by Carondelet and Canal. 
 
 BARRACKS AND SLAUGHTER HOUSE LINE. 
 
 Red cars ; white light ; every fifteen minutes. 
 Start from station, Rampart, corner Poland, 
 thence out Poland, Dauphine, Delery and Peters 
 to the Slaughter House. Return by Peters, 
 Flood, Dauphine and Poland. 
 
 CANAL STERET DUMMY RAILWAY. 
 
 Start from Canal, opposite Carondelet, for 
 
192 GUIDE. 
 
 Greenwood, Metairie Road and St. Patrick Cem- 
 eteries and West End every half hour, returning 
 by the same route. 
 
 RAILROAD STATIONS. 
 
 Shell Beach Railway — Corner St. Claude and 
 Elysian Fields. Ticket ofifice at station. 
 
 Mobile & Ohio — Head of Canal Street. Ticket 
 office opposite St. Charles Hotel. 
 
 New Orleans, Spanish Fort & Lake Railroad — 
 Corner Canal and Basin streets. Ticket office at 
 station. 
 
 New Orleans City & Lake Railroad (West End) 
 — Canal, opposite Carondelet. Ticket office on 
 cars. 
 
 Ponchartrain Railroad (Old Lake End or Milne- 
 burg) — Corner Elysian Fields and Chartres Street. 
 Ticket office at station. 
 
 Illinois Central or Great Jackson Route — Head 
 of Calliope Street. Ticket office corner Canal and 
 Carondelet. 
 
 Louisville & Nashville — Head of Canal and 
 Levee. Ticket office under St. Charles Hotel and 
 at station. 
 
 Mississippi Valley Railroad — Jackson Depot 
 head of CaUiopc. Ticket office at 61 St. Charles 
 Street. 
 
 New Orleans and North Eastern (Queen and 
 
GUIDE. 193 
 
 Crescent) — Corner Levee and Cotton Press Street. 
 Ticket office St. Charles Street, opposite St. Charles 
 Hotel. 
 
 Southern Pacific and Star & Crescent — Head of 
 Esplanade and Levee. Ticket office corner of 
 Magazine and Natchez. 
 
 Texas & Pacific — Head of Terpsichore Street 
 and Levee. Ticket office 47 St. Charles Street. 
 
 FERRIES TO ALGIERS. 
 
 From head of Canal Street. 
 
 From head of St. Ann Street. 
 
 From head of Barracks Street. 
 
 Every twenty minutes ; fare five cents. 
 
 Morgan's Louisiana & Texas Railroad Ferry, from foot of Esplan- 
 ade Street, on departure of train for railroad depot at Algiers. 
 
 The following ferries are skiffs, or sail boats, carrying persons when 
 called ; fare lo cents each way ; 
 
 Free Town Ferry — Head of Richards Street. 
 
 Louisiana Avenue Ferry to Harvey's Canal (a tug) — Head of Lou- 
 isiana Avenue. 
 
 Slaughter House Ferry — From the Slaughter House and United 
 StateslBarracks. 
 
 Gretna Ferry— To the Oak Ames Plantations, foot of Upper Line 
 Street. 
 
 STEAMERS FOR UPPER AND LOWER 
 COASTS AND DOMESTIC PORTS. 
 
 For Bayou Sara, Port Hickey, Baton Rouge, Donald- 
 sonville and way landings — Steamboats Edward J. Gay and Corona 
 leave wharf below Canal Street Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and 
 Saturdays. 
 
194 GUIDE. 
 
 For Bayou LiaFourche, Coast Plaquemine and Donald- 
 
 sonville — Steamboats Whisper and Keokuk, daily at 12 M., from 
 foot of Conti Street. 
 
 For HJimpton Point and way landings — Str. Mabel Comeaux, 
 Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 12 M., from foot of Conti Street, 
 For Gross Tete Railroad, Baton Kouge, Piaquemine, 
 Bayou Goula and DonaldsonTille^Stearaer Clinton, Mon- 
 day and Friday, 5 p. M., below Canal. 
 
 Lio^iver Coast— Steamer Godfrey T. Johnson, for Pat Lyon's 
 Place and way landings, daily, Mondays excepted, at 3 p. M., head 
 of St, Louis Street. 
 
 Lower Coast to Oakrill© — Steamer Lura, daily at 8 a. m,, 
 Thursdays excepted, from head of St. Louis Street. 
 
 Lower Coast lor Port Eads, Quarantine Station and 
 Forts St. Philip and Jacltson— Steamers Neptune, Alvin and 
 Daisy, from head ofConti Street, at 11 A. M., daily except Saturday 
 and Sunday. 
 
 For Red River, Colfax, Cane Rirer, Alexandria, Pine- 
 vile — Steamer Phil E. Chappell, from head of Conti Street, as adver- 
 tised, 
 
 Oachita River— For Oachita City Trenton, Monroe and 
 landings — Steamer Poplar Bluff every Wednesday at 5 P. M., from 
 wharf below Canal Street. 
 
 Bayou Teche— For St. Martinsville, New Iberia, Jean- 
 evette, Baldwin's, Franklin, Centerville, Patterson's 
 and all landings — Steamer New Iberia from head of Custom House 
 Street, as advertised. 
 
 For Atchafalaja River and landings and Bayou Courta- 
 bleau — Steamer Fanchon, Wednesdays at 5 P. M., from head of 
 Custom House Street. 
 
 For Viclcsburg, Greenville, Natchez and Davis Bend- 
 Steamers J.M. White, Ed. Richardson, Natchez, Tuesday, Thursday 
 and Saturday at 5 P. M., from head of Custom-House Street. 
 
 For Cincinnati and Ohio River, as advertised, from head of 
 Poydras Street, 
 
 For Memphis, Arkansas City, Greenville and way land- 
 ings—Steamers Henry Frank and Chas. P. Choteau leave on alternate 
 Thursdays at 5 P. M., from head of Poydras Street. 
 
GUIDE. 195 
 
 For St. liouis— (Anchor Line)— Steamers City of Bayou Sara and 
 City of Baton Rouge, Wednesday and Saturday at 5 P. M., from head 
 of Poydras Street. 
 
 For New York— (Cromwell Line)— Steamers Knickerbocker, Hud- 
 son, Louisiana and New Orleans, as advertised, from head of Toulouse 
 Street. 
 
 For New York— (Morgan's Louisiana and Texas Railroad and 
 Steamship Company)— Steamers leave Algiers every Tuesday and 
 Friday at 6 P. M. 
 
 Lake Fonchartrain— Steamer New Camelia leaves Milneburg 
 on arrival of cars from Fonchartrain depot, Elysian Fields Street, for 
 Mandeville, Madisonville and Old Landing. Trains leave above depot 
 to connect, Mondays and Thursdays at i P. M., Tuesdays, Fridays and 
 Saturdays at 4 P. M. E.xcursions, Wednesdays at 8 A. M. and 6 p. M., 
 Sundays at 7 A. M. and 6 P. M. Fare each way, $1.00. Excursions 
 over and back, $1.00. 
 
 FOREIGN TRADE. 
 
 The foreign trade which is open to the mer- 
 chants of New Orleans can be no better illustrated 
 than in the publication of its lines of ocean traffic 
 direct with many parts of the world, and particu- 
 larly its Central American and Mexican trade. 
 More trips to the month are needed, and increasing 
 business ere long will bring this about. The Ex- 
 position edition of the Times- Democrat on this 
 subject says: 
 
 New Orleans stands at the mouth of the greatest river in the world, 
 with the greatest tonnage and traffic and the greatest future before it. 
 It is midway between the world's two great oceans, midway between four 
 continents, two north and south, two east and west, and is finally the 
 terminus of at least six of the longest and most important railway trunk 
 lines in the world. 
 
196 GUIDE. 
 
 DISTANCE TO LATIN-AMERICAN PORTS. 
 
 In the point of time and distance to all the ports of the Gulf of Mex- 
 ico and Caribbean Sea, to all the ports of Mexico and the West Indies, 
 with the exception of a few of the further islands of South America, 
 west of Guiana, and to all the countries and islands of the Pacific 
 ocean, New Orleans is more favorably situated than any city on the 
 American seaboard, and should do the importing and exporting busi- 
 ness of these- countries. 
 
 The time between New Orleans and Vera "Cruz is only three days 
 via Morgan City ; three and one-half by "way of the passes. Port 
 Limon, Costa Rica, is seven days from here, and nme and one-half 
 from New York, and Colon the same distance from both cities. Belize 
 is three and one-half days from New Orleans ; seven from New York. 
 
 STEAMERS AND SAILING VESSELS. 
 
 We have, during the winter season, two lines of steamers, run 
 ning to Vera Cruz and stopping at Bagdad, Tuxpam and Tampico. 
 There are also sailing vessels frequently running to Progreso and other 
 Mexican ports. 
 
 We have a regular line of steamers to Havana, Key West and Cedar 
 Keys. There are besides these nine other Imes, embracing ninety-three 
 vessels (steamers), running between this port and Europe, which stop 
 at various West Indian and Mexican ports en route to this city or on 
 their way home, thus giving us easy and frequent communication with 
 them. Thus the West India and Paciric Line (British) stop at nearly 
 all the important West Indian ports ; the Mississippi and Dominion 
 Line (British) at Havana ; the North German Lloyd (German) also at 
 Havana; the Harrison Line (British) among the West Indies and the 
 ports of Central and South America ; another line at Porto Rica and 
 Cuba ; and the others in similar manner at various ports on the Gulf 
 or the Caribbean. 
 
 We have besides these a line of vessels (the Macheca Line) between 
 BeHze (British Honduras) and New Orleans, making three trips a 
 month ; a hne trading regularly to Port Livingston, on the eastern 
 coast of Spanish Honduras, and two other hnes, the Oteri and C. A. 
 Fish's steamers, connecting Truxillo and the Bay Islands with this 
 port. 
 
 A new line of steamers has just been established between New Or- 
 
GUIDE. 197 
 
 leans and Nicaragua, placing this city in regular monthly communica- 
 tion with the three Caribbean ports of Gracias a Dios, Bluefields and 
 San Juan del Norte. 
 
 C. A. Fish's steamers connect New Orleans with Port Limon bi- 
 weekly, and thence with the interior by rail. 
 
 Three hnes— Macheca's, Oteri's and Fish's— run between this city 
 and Jamaica during the winter season, and one to Port-au-Prince, 
 Hayti. 
 
 With the other ports of the Caribbean there is very little communi- 
 cation. A line of steamers was recently estabhshed to Laguayra, Ven- 
 ezuela, but had to be discontinued on account of the oppressive quar- 
 antine. With Venezuela we have now no communication except an 
 occasional vessel. 
 
 FOREIGN STEAMSHIP LINES. 
 
 For Liverpool— Compania Mexicana Trasatlantica— Steamers 
 Mexico, Oaxaca, Tamauripas, as advertised, from head of St. Marys' 
 Street. 
 
 For Trieste, A.ustria— (Ward and Holzapfel's Line)— Steamers 
 leave as advertised from head of Jackson Street. 
 
 For Havre— (Antwerp and Bordeaux French Commercial Line)— 
 Steamers Dupoy de Lome, Paris, Havre, Rouen, Bordeaux. Nantes, 
 and Marseille, as advertised, from head of St. Mary's Street. 
 
 For Bremen, Hamburg, Genoa, Glasgow and London 
 —{Mexican Gulf Line)— Steamers leave as advertised from head of 
 Washington Street. 
 
 For Ruatan, Truxillo, Utilla, Bonacca, Belfate, Ceiba 
 and other ports in Spanish Honduras— (Oteri Pioneer Line)— Steam- 
 ers S. Oteri and E. B. Ward, Jr., leave as advertised from head of 
 Caliope Street. 
 
 For Florida and Havana— (Morgan Line)— Steamers Hutchinson 
 and Morgan leave Algiers as advertised. Passengers take ferry boat 
 from head of Elysian Fields Street. 
 
 For Vera Cruz— Steamer Harlan leaves Algiers as advertised. 
 Passengers take ferry boat from head of Elysian Fields Street. 
 
 For Central America, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and As- 
 pinwall-(New Orleans and Central American Steamship Line.) 
 
198 GUIDE. 
 
 — Steamship Lucy P. Miller, as advertised, from head of Caliope 
 Street. 
 
 For Spanish Honduras ports and the Bay Islands — Steamship 
 Kate Carroll, as advertised, from head of Caliope Street 
 
 For Bine Fields and Port Limon — The Costa Rica Steam- 
 ship Heredia, as advertised, from head of CaUope Street 
 
 For Puerto Cortez, Omoa, Livingston, Port Barrios, 
 S£^,nto Tomas— (New Orleans, Honduras and Guatemala Steamship 
 Line)— Steamship Ellen Knight, as advertised, from head of Caliope 
 Street. 
 
 For Belize, Livingston, Port Barrios and Truxillo — 
 (United States and Central American Steamship Line)— Steamship 
 Longfellow, as adrertised, from head of Caliope Street. 
 
 For Belize, Livingston, Port Barrios, Puerto Cortez 
 Isabel and Panzos — (New Orleans and Belize Royal Mail Steam- 
 ship Company) — Steamers City of Dallas and Wanderer, as advertised, 
 from head of Caliope Street. 
 
 For Livingston, Santo Tomas and Puerto Cortez— Steam- 
 ship Craigallion leaves as advertised, from Picayune Tier. 
 
 By the New Orleans, Central and South American steamship pass- 
 engers are conveyed to Aspinwall, and thence by British, French or 
 German mail steamships to the following Atlantic ports : 
 
 Costa Rica— Port Limon. 
 
 Nicaragua — Greytown. 
 
 Colombia— Carthagenia, Sa vanilla Bay and Magdalena River, 
 Santa Martha, Rio Hacha. 
 
 Venezuela— Maracaibo, Puerto Cabello, La Guayra, Cumana^ 
 Carupano, Bolivar on the Oronoco River. 
 
 British G-uiana — Georgetown, on the Demerara River. 
 Dutch Guiana— Paramaribo. 
 
 French Guiana— Cayenne. 
 
 Dutch West Indies— Island Curacao. 
 
 British West Indies— Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada, St. 
 Vincent, Barbadoes, Sta Lucia, Montserratt, Antigua, St. Kitts, 
 Jamaica. 
 
 French West Indies— Martinique, Gaudeloupe. 
 
 Danish West Indies— Sta. Cruz, St. Thomas. 
 
 Spanish West Indies— Porti Rico, San Domingo, Hayti. 
 
GUIDE. 199 
 
 By the NewOrleans and South American steamships, passengers and 
 freight are conveyed to Aspinwall and thence by the British Steam 
 Navigation Company's steamships to the following South Pacific 
 ports : 
 
 New Grenada— Beunaventura, Tumaco. 
 
 Ecuador— Esmeraldas, xManta, Ballenita, Guayaquil, Tumbez. 
 
 Peru (via Callao)— Pimentel, Eten, Pascasmayo, Malabrigo, 
 Huanchaco, Huacho. 
 
 Peru— Payta, Callao, Tambo de Mora, Pisco, Lomas, Chala,Quilca, 
 Islay, Mollendo, IIo, Arica, Pisagua, Mexiilones, Iquique. 
 
 Bolivia— Pabelon de Pica, Huanilos, Tocopilla, Cobija, Antofo- 
 gasta. 
 
 Chili— Chanaral, Caldera, Carazal-bajo, Huasca, Coquimbo, 
 Valparaiso, Tome, Talcahuano, Lota, Coral (Valdivia), Ancud, Port 
 Montt. 
 
 Through first cabin passenger rates from New Orleans to the follow- 
 ing south Pacific ports (not including railroad fare across the Isthmus) : 
 
 Buenaventura $ 85 00 
 
 Tumaco 93 75 
 
 Esmeraldas no 00 
 
 Manta 120 00 
 
 Guayaquil 140 00 
 
 Pavta ■ 155 00 
 
 Callao 195 00 
 
 Tambo de Mora and Pisco i97 5° 
 
 Chala 212 50 
 
 Quilca and Mollendo 222 50 
 
 Ilo and Arica 230 00 
 
 Pisaqua, Mexiilones and Iquique 232 50 
 
 Tocopilla and Cobija '. . . 240 00 
 
 Chanaral and Caldera 248 75 
 
 Carazal-bajo and Huasco 255 00 
 
 Coquimbo 258 75 
 
 Valparaiso 265 00 
 
 The fare from New Orleans to 
 
 Aspinwall $ 5° 00 
 
 Carthagena 60 00 
 
 Savanilla 65 00 
 
200 GUIDE. 
 
 OCEAN DISTANCES BETWEEN NEAR 
 PORTS. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Aspiriwall to Carthagena 2 270 
 
 Carthagena to Savanilla 73 
 
 Savanilla to Santa Martha 46 
 
 Santa Martha to La Hacha 87 
 
 La Hacha to Curacao 264 
 
 Curacao to Porto Cabello 115 
 
 Porto Cabello to La Guayra 66 
 
 La Guayra to Trinidad 340 
 
 Demerara to Trinidad 365 
 
 ' ' Barbadoes 430 
 
 Tobago 315 
 
 Trinidad to Jacmel 1130 
 
 Port-au-Prince 1320 
 
 Port-au-Prince to St. Thomas 660 
 
 " SanJuanP. R 994 
 
 Jamaica to Jacmel 255 
 
 Trinidad to Grenada 94 
 
 St. Vincent 178 
 
 ' ' Barbadoes 283 
 
 ' ' Sta Lucia 230 
 
 ' ' Martinique 275 
 
 " Dominica 324 
 
 ' ' Gaudaloupe 377 
 
 " Antigua 445 
 
 , • Montserrat 477 
 
 " Nevis 510 
 
 St. Kitis 510 
 
 " Tortolo 639 
 
 " St. Thomas 660 
 
 " San Juan, P. R 720 
 
 BY THE NEW ORLEANS, CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICAN STEAM- 
 SHIPS. 
 
 Freight and passengers are conveyed to Aspinwall, thence crossing 
 the Isthmus by rail proceed from Panama by the Pacific Mail Steam- 
 ships to the following ports on the North Pacific Ocean to China, 
 Japan, Indian and Australian seas. 
 
GUIDE. 201 
 
 The distances from Panama are : 
 
 TO. MILES. 
 
 Costa Rica— Punta Arenas 454 
 
 Nicaragua— San Juan del Sur 6io 
 
 Corinto 716 
 
 Honduras— A mapala 779 
 
 San Salvador- La Union 800 
 
 La Libertad 904 
 
 Acajulta 942 
 
 Guatemala — San Jose de Guatemala 1002 
 
 Mexico— San Benito 1121 
 
 Tonala 1223 
 
 Salina Cruz , 1303 
 
 Port Angel 1384 
 
 Acapulco 1591 
 
 Manzanillo 1742 
 
 San Bias 1928 
 
 Mazatlan 2033 
 
 California— San Francisco 3220 
 
 At San Francisco the steamers connect at the following ports, and 
 the distance from San Francisco to — 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Washington Territory— Victoria 750 
 
 Tacoma 880 
 
 Olympia 925 
 
 Oregon— Portland , T020 
 
 Sandwich Islands — Honolulu 2100 
 
 Fejee Islands— Kandavan 4900 
 
 New Zealand— Auckland , 6050 
 
 Wellington 6625 
 
 Lyttleton 6795 
 
 Point Chalmers 7000 
 
 New South Wales— Sidney 7200 
 
 Victoria, Australia— Melbourne 7240 
 
 Queensland, Australia— Brisbane 7150 
 
 Rockhampton 7500 
 
 South Australia— Adelaide 8246 
 
 Tasmania— Hobarttown 7600 
 
 Japan— Yokohama 4800 
 
 via (Yokohama) Hiogo S^oo 
 
 " " Nagasaki 5559 
 
 China- (via Hong Kong) Shanghai 6000 
 
 (direct) " 6400 
 
 Malay Pen— Singapore 7857 
 
 India— (via Hong Kong) Penang 8718 
 
 Calcutta 9900 
 
202 GUIDE. 
 
 Passengers to and from Aspinwall, by European Mail Steamers, are 
 twenty-one days on the ocean, while by the New Orleans route, con- 
 necting with European Steamers at New York, the sea voyage across 
 the Atlantic is reduced to twelve days, and is relieved by a very pleas- 
 ant journey of three days by rail from New Orleans to New York. 
 
 OCEAN DIISTANCES FROM NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 To Cuba 2 620 
 
 • ' Tampico 625 
 
 ' ' Tuxpan 750 
 
 " Vera Cruz. 1113 
 
 " Coatzocalcos (Eads' Railroad) 900 
 
 " Progresso, Yucatan ' 600 
 
 " Belize (Honduras) 840 
 
 ' ' Bay Islands ( Honduras) 900 
 
 " Jamaica (West Indies) 1200 
 
 " Aspinwall (Colombia) 1300 
 
 ' ' To Carthagena 1 300 
 
 " Savinilla 1322 
 
 " Curacao 1557 
 
 ' ' Trinidad . . : 2085 
 
 " Barbados 2135 
 
 FOREIGN CONSULS AND CONSULAR 
 AGENTS AT NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 Argentine Republic— Wallace Ogden, Consul, 179 Common 
 Street. 
 
 Austria-Hungary — Baron Meysenberg, Consul, 71 Carondelet. 
 
 Belgium— Anton, J. R. Landauar, Consul, 45 Carondelet. 
 
 Bolivia — Joseph P. Macheca, Consul, Rampart, between Ursulines 
 and Hospital. 
 
 Brazil— Allain Eustis, Vice Consul Rampart, between Ursulines 
 and Hospital. 
 
 Costa Rica— J. A. Quintero, Consul, 66 Camp. 
 
 Danish— H, F. Clumpp, Consul, 42 Union, First District. 
 
 France — Paul d' Abzac, Consul-General, 92 Royal. 
 
 German Empire — John Knittschnitt, Consul, 163 Carondelet. 
 
 Great Britain— A. de G. de Fonblanque, Consul, 13 Carondelet. 
 
 Greece — N. M. Benachi, Consul, 44 Perdido. 
 
GUIDE. 203 
 
 Ouatemala— E, Martinez, Consul, 'jj Custom-house. 
 
 Honduras— L. M. Avendano, Consul. 44 Conti. 
 
 Italy— M. C. Marfoschi, Consul, 84 Conti. 
 
 Mexico— M. Zapata Vera, Consul, Room i, 28 Natchez. 
 
 Netherlands— Adolph Schreiber, Consul, 61 Carondelet. 
 
 Norway ond Sweden— B. F. Bengston, Vice Consul, "I" 
 Gal liar Court. 
 
 Russia— J. F. Schroeder, Consul, 62 Baronne. 
 
 San Salvador— Em. Martinez, Consul, 77 Custom-House. 
 
 Spain— Arturo Baldasano y Zopete, Consul, Pedro SoHs, Vice 
 Consul, 5 Commercial Place. 
 
 Switzerland— Emile Hoehn, Consul, 63 Custom-House. 
 
 United States of Columbia— Em. Martinez, Consul, 77 
 Custom-House. 
 
 Uruaguay (Oriental Republic)— Leonard Sewell, Consul, 
 
 25 Carondelet. 
 Venezuela— Em. Martinez, Consul, ^^ Custom House. 
 
204 GUIDE. 
 
 RAILROAD DISTANCES FROM NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 To Atlanta 447 
 
 Austin . 527 
 
 Baltimore 1204 
 
 Boston 1626 
 
 Charleston 803 
 
 Chattanooga 574 
 
 Chicago 9IO' 
 
 Cincinnati 858 
 
 Cleveland, O 1103 
 
 Denver 1616 
 
 El Paso 1075 
 
 Galveston 411 
 
 Houston 361 
 
 Indianapolis . 823 
 
 Jacksonville 743 
 
 Kansas City 977 
 
 Little Rock 529 
 
 Louisville , , 749 
 
 Lynchburg 1020 
 
 Mexico City 1300 
 
 Memphis 394 
 
 Milwaukee 1000^ 
 
 Mobile 140 
 
 Montreal 1698 
 
 Montgomery , 32a 
 
 Nashville 564 
 
 New York 1392 
 
 Niagara Falls 1308 
 
 Norfolk 1224 
 
 Omaha iiio 
 
 Paducah 553 
 
 Pensacola 244 
 
 Philadelphia 1304 
 
 Pittsburg 1171 
 
 Quebec , 1909 
 
 Richmond 1046 
 
 Savannah 734 
 
 Salt Lake City 2123 
 
 San Francisco 2500 
 
 San Antonio 577 
 
 Selma 392^ 
 
 St. Louis 700- 
 
 St. Paul 1324 
 
 Toronto 1365 
 
 Vicksburg 227 
 
 Washington 1163 
 
GUIDE. 
 
 205 
 
 HIGHEST AND LOWEST PRICES OF MIDDLING UPLAND 
 
 COTTON IN EACH OF THE CALENDAR YEARS 
 
 NAMED AT THE CITY OF NEW YORK. 
 
 HIGHEST 
 PRICE. 
 YEAR. CENTS. 
 
 1825 27 
 
 1826 14 
 
 1827 12 
 
 1828 13 
 
 1829 II 
 
 1830 13 
 
 X83I II 
 
 1832 12 
 
 1833 17 
 
 1834 16 
 
 1835 20 
 
 1836 20 
 
 1837 17 
 
 1838 12 
 
 1839 16 
 
 1840 10 
 
 1841 II 
 
 1842 9 
 
 1843- •• 8 
 
 1844 9 
 
 1845 9 
 
 1846 9 
 
 1847 .12 
 
 1848 8 
 
 1849 II 
 
 1850 14 * 
 
 1851 14 
 
 1852 10 
 
 1853 II 
 
 1854 10 
 
 1855 II 
 
 LOWEST 
 PRICE. 
 CENTS. 
 
 13 
 9 
 
 HIGHEST 
 PRICE. 
 YEAR. CENTS. 
 
 1856 12 
 
 1857 15 
 
 1858 13 
 
 1859 12 
 
 i860 II 
 
 1861 28 
 
 1862 68 
 
 1863 88 
 
 1864 190 
 
 1865 122 
 
 1866 52 
 
 1867 36 
 
 1868 33 
 
 1869 35 
 
 1870 25K 
 
 1871 22 
 
 1872 27I 
 
 1873 2l| 
 
 1874 18I 
 
 1875 I7I 
 
 1876 I3I 
 
 ^^-77 i3i^ 
 
 1878 12^ 
 
 1879 13I 
 
 1880 13I 
 
 1881 13 
 
 ^882 "^xa^ 
 
 1883 Hi 
 
 1884 to ) 
 
 Sept. I. ; ''t^ 
 
 LOWEST 
 PRICE. 
 CENTS. 
 
 9 
 13 
 
 9 
 II 
 10 
 II 
 20 
 
 54 
 72 
 
 33 
 32 
 15 K 
 16 
 
 25 
 15 
 
 i8| 
 i3f 
 X4| 
 
 i3iV 
 
 10^ 
 
 9i 
 
 loi 
 10 
 
206 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 African, the, 3. 
 Aaron Burr, 14. 
 Almonaster-y-RoxasDonAndres II 
 
 Tomb of, 91. 
 Algiers, 35, 88. 
 Area of City, 44. 
 Adah Isaacs Menken. 67. 
 Amusements, 65. 
 
 All Saints Day, 80, 8i. 82, 83, 84. 
 Academy of Music, 65. 
 An Apology, 135, 136. 
 Ames Oakes, Estate of, 120. 
 Articles Religieux, 100. 
 Audubon, 102. 
 Art Gallery, 147. 
 Asylums, 179, 180, 181. 
 Boarding Houses, 157; 158. 
 Balcouy Studies, 100. 
 Bridge of Sighs, 100. 
 "Bull Run Russell" Pen Pictures, 
 
 132, 133, 134. 
 Bay St. Louis, 139. 
 Battle of Sedan, 68. 
 Bienville, 3, 5. 
 Biloxi, 5, 6, 9, 140. 
 Bayou St. John, 5, 57. 
 Battle of New Orleans, 14. 
 Butler, General Benjamin F., 24, 
 
 34. 35. 51. 53- 70, 102. 
 Headquarters of, 104. 
 Bailey, Captain, 28, 29, 31. 
 Bell, Captain, 29, 30, 33. 
 Benjamin, Judah P., Portrait of, 
 
 35- 
 Bank, Old Citizens, loi. 
 Banks, 162, 163. 
 Beauregard, General G. T. , 39, 
 
 102, 115, 116, 117 126. 
 Bull-fight Audience A, 52. 
 Black Coffee, 55. 
 Biscuit Glace, 56. 
 Bayou St. Peter, 57. ♦ 
 
 Benjamin Franklin, Statue of, 51. 
 Buftklo Bill's Wild West, 68. 
 Boston Club House, 75. 
 Boulton Carbons. 93. 
 Brush Electric Light, 93. 
 
 CHAS. 
 Creoles, The, 105, 106. 
 Christ's Church, 107. 
 Chasaublere, 100. 
 Confederate Silver, Seizure of, loi. 
 Civil District Court, 92. 
 Coliseum Place, 51. 
 Church of St. Ignatius, 91. 
 Church of Ivy, 85. 
 Cathedral St. Louis, 91. 
 Churches, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168, 
 
 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 
 
 176, 177, 178. 
 Convent Ursulines, 7, 63. 
 Convents, 18 r, 182. 
 Cat Island, 5. 
 
 Compagnie d' Occident, 4, 10. 
 Cable, Geo. W. , 8, 105, 119. 
 Cession to the United States, 12. 
 Chalmette Cemetery, 15, 62. 
 Craven, Captain, 30. 
 Crozat, Anthony, 4. 
 Confederate Ram Manassas, 30,31. 
 Confederate General Lovell, 33. 
 Connecticut Infantry, 12th, 34. 51. 
 Clay, Henry, 49, 173. 
 Common Council, 13, 35, 39, 
 Custom-House, 69. 
 Credit System, 40, 41. 
 Congo Square, 52. 
 Choctaws, 139. 
 Choctaw Squaws, 54. 
 Carondelet's Canal, 57. 
 Carondelet, Baron de, 3, 12, 57. 
 Canal Street, 44, 57. 
 Carrollton, 44, 58, 60. 
 CarroUton Levee, 59. 
 
rNDEX. 
 
 207 
 
 Carrollton Gardens, 60. 
 
 City Library, 69. 
 
 City, Debt of, 38. 
 
 Ciry Hall, 51, 73. 
 
 City Government, Expenses of, 35, 
 
 38. 
 Court Buildings, 74. 
 Cotton Exchange, 75. 
 Cotton Presses, 90. 
 Cemeteries, 15, 62, 78, 79, 183, 184, 
 
 185, 186. 
 Cotton Table, 205. 
 Drysdale, Dr., 107. 
 Devil's Swamp, 139. 
 De Soto, 4. 
 Duke of Orleans, 9. 
 Duncan, Confederate General, 16, 27 
 Drainage, 42, 43. 
 Dime Museums, 67. 
 Dagos, 54. 
 Date Palm, 98. 
 
 Davis, Jefferson, Ex- President, 5. 
 Dummy Engines, Queer, 58. 
 Draw Poker, 97. 
 De Pcuilly, M. J. N.. 72 
 East Pascagonla, 140. 
 Exposition, the, 141, 142, 143, 144, 
 
 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 151, 152, 
 
 153. 154. 155. 156- 
 Exposition, the. Special Features 
 
 of, 150, 151. 
 Exposition, the. Outside Featur s 
 
 of. 152. 
 Excursions, Local, 153. 
 English Turn, 126. 
 Eads, Captain, 128. 
 Exchange Place, 100, 
 Election Day in New Orleans, 132. 
 Everett's Artillery, 34. 
 Early, General Jubal A., 39, 115, 
 
 1x6, 117. 
 Esplanade Street, 61, 62. 
 Exchanges, 160. 
 Express Companies, 160. 
 Farragut, 17, 26, 28, 29. 31, 32, 
 
 16, 19, 70, 35, 127. 
 Franco-Spanish residences, loi. 
 Fort Pike, 139. 
 Factory and Mill, 148. 
 
 Ferries, 193. 
 
 French Market, 107, 
 
 Fort Eads, 126. 
 
 Father Marquette, 4. 
 
 Fille a la Cassettes, 7, 8, 9. 
 
 Fort Jackson, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 
 
 22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 31, 126. 
 Fort St. Philip, 16, 22, 29, 31, 126. 
 Fish, Varieties of, 56. 
 Fisk Free Library, 68. 
 Faranti's Theatre, 66, 67. 
 Foreign Vessels, 88, 90. 
 Foreign Trade, 195, 196, 197. 
 Foreign Steamship Lines, 198,199. 
 Faro, 98. 
 
 French Opera House, 65, 66, 
 Foreign Consuls, 202, 203. 
 Gallery Rooms, 103, 104, 
 Gulf Coast, 137, 
 Governor Perier, 138, 
 Guide to New Orleans, 157, 
 Galvez, 7, 11, 
 Great Fire, 12. 
 Gaines, Mrs. General Mvra Clark, 
 
 14. 38. 
 Grunnew&ld Hall, 6j. 
 Gascons, 52. 
 
 Grand Army of the Republic, 163. 
 Grand Opera House, 65, 
 General Grimes, Portrait of, 92. 
 " Grand Hazard, ' 97. 
 Gambling Houses, 94, 96, 97, 98. 
 Gumbo Soups, 56. 
 Holland, Rev. Dr., 109. 
 Horticultural Hall, 146. 
 Hospitals, 183. 
 Hatch, General, 105, 
 Hunt, General, 105. 
 Holy Land, 108. 
 
 Higgins, Confederate Colonel, x6. 
 Harriet Lane, the, 19, 27. 
 History, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 
 
 13, 14, 15, 16, 17. 18, 19, 20, 21, 
 
 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 
 
 31. 32. 33- 34. 35- 
 Haugery, Margaret, 51. 
 Hotel Roval, 71. 
 Hotels, 157. 
 Iberville, M. D., 5. 
 
208 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 India Company, 7. 
 
 Infirmaries, 183. 
 
 Jockey Club House, 5, 61, 62, 113. 
 
 Jesuits, 7. 
 
 Jackson, General Andrew, 14, 15, 
 32. 70, 73- 
 
 Jackson Square, 10, 11, 35, 61. 
 
 Jetties, to the, 125, 126, 127, 128, 
 129. 
 
 Kernochen, H. P. , Plantation, 126. 
 
 Keno, 94, 96, 97. 
 
 Lotteries, 109, no, in, 112, 113, 
 114, 115, 116, 117, 118. 
 
 Louisiana State Lottery, 112, 113. 
 
 Livres Classiques, 100. 
 
 Lumber Yards, 102. 
 
 Louis IX, 6. 
 
 Louis XIV, 4, 5, 6. 
 
 La Salle, 4, 54. 
 
 Lunches, 56. 
 
 Lee Place, 51. 
 
 Lee, General Robert E., Monu- 
 ment to, 51. 
 
 Louisiana Club House, 75. 
 
 Levee, the, 87. 
 
 Law, George, 4, 9. 
 
 Louisiana Division Northern Army 
 of Virginia, Monument of, 85. 
 
 Lafayette Square, 51. 
 
 Libraries, 68. 
 
 Miller Joaquim, 120. 
 
 Myrtle Grove Plantation, 127. 
 
 Mardi Gras, 129. 
 
 Mystic Krewe of Comus, 130. 
 
 Mermaid Legend of, 138, 
 
 Mexican Headquarters, 148, 149. 
 
 Main Building, 143. 
 
 Music Hall, 144. 
 
 Marquette, Father, 4, 
 
 Mississippi River, 7. 
 
 Moniteaur de la Louisiane, 12. 
 
 Mass. Infantry, Thirty-first, 34. 
 
 Mexicans, 49, 53, 107. 
 
 Mexican Exchange, 76, 
 " Doctor, no. 
 
 Markets, 53, 54, 55. 161, 162. 
 
 Market, Old French, 53. 
 
 Monuments, 49, 50, 51, 52, 85. 
 
 Margeret's Place, 51. 
 
 Mum ford, Wm. B., 70. 
 
 Milnebury, 64. 
 
 Marigny Families of, 92. 
 
 Mandeville " " 92. 
 
 Masonic Halls, 74. 
 
 Marshall, Chief Justice, Bust of, 
 
 92. 
 National Cemetery, 15, 62. 
 Newspapers, 77. 
 Nuns, Ursulines, 7. 
 Orleans Park, 105. 
 Opera House, 107. 
 Orange Plantation, nearest, 126. 
 Ornements d'e glise, 100. 
 Old Citizens' Bank Building, 101. 
 Old Book Stores, 103, 
 Ocean Springs, 140. 
 O'Reilly, General Alexander, 3, 10, 
 
 II. 33- 
 Orleans Market, 53. 
 Oysters, 56, 57. 
 Oyster Smacks, 53. 
 Old French Market, 53. 
 Old Spanish Fort, 64. 
 Odd Fellows' Hall, 74. 
 Ocean Distances, 200, 201 , 202. 
 Parks, 50. 
 
 Palmer, Rev. Dr., 109. 
 Plaquemine Parish Rice Crop, 126. 
 Palm Date, 98, 99. 
 Pascagoula Bay, 138. 
 River, 138. 
 Pearl River, 139. 
 Pass Christian, 140. 
 Pontalba, Baroness, 11, 92. 
 Poor Whites, 87. 
 Poker, 97. 
 
 Personal Property, Valuation of, 37. 
 Post Office, 161. 
 Poydras Julien, 7 
 Packenham, General, 16. 
 Porter, Captain, 19, 22, 25, 32. 
 Population, 36. 
 Prominent Buildings, 69. 
 Portugese Sailors, 52. 
 Parish Prison, 53. 
 Ponchartrain Lake, 56, 57, 62, 139 
 Pickwick Club House, 75. 
 Produce Exchange, 76. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 209 
 
 Parrocchia Italiana, 93. 
 
 Rigolets, 139. 
 
 Roller Rinks, 163. 
 
 Rue Royale, 39, 93, 94, 95, loi, 
 
 139, 219, 221. 
 Real Estate, Valuation of, 36. 
 Rouge et Noir, 97. 
 Roval Mexican Automaton Show, 
 
 68. 
 Russell, Wm. Howard (Bull Run), 
 
 71- 
 
 Restaurants, 55, 56, 159. 
 Railroad Stations, 192, 193. 
 Railroad Distances, 204. 
 Square 75, Rue de Orleans, 100. 
 Street Car Lines, 186, 187, 188, 
 
 189, 19°' 19I' 192- 
 Steamers for Domestic Ports, 193, 
 
 194. 
 Stella Plantation, 127. 
 Ste. Rosalie Plantation, 127. 
 Sunday m New Orleans, 106, 107, 
 
 108, 109. 
 Sunday League, 108. 
 Souville, 5. 
 Sugar Plantation, 12, 120, 121, 
 
 122, 123, 124, 125. 
 Soule Pierre, 34, 70, 72. 
 
 " " Bust of. 92. 
 
 Spanish Cabildo, 35, 61, 92 
 Slaves, Valuation of, 37. 
 Streets, 44, 45, 46, 47. 
 Stone Pavements, 41. 
 State Auditor, Warrants of, 40. 
 Saloons, 57, 58. 
 Statues, 50. 
 
 St. Louis Cemetery, 62. 
 Shell Beach Railroad, 63, 126. 
 Spanish Fort, 64. 
 St. Charles Hotel, 34, 70. 
 St. Charles Theatre, 65. 
 
 St. Charles Street, 108. 
 
 St. Charles Avenue, 60. 
 
 St. Louis Cathedral, 61, 91. 
 
 St. Louis Hotel, 72. 
 
 St. Louis Cemetery, 113. 
 
 Spanish Cavaliers, Tomb of, 92. 
 
 Stevedores, 87. 
 
 Steamboats Discharging Cargoes, 
 87. 
 
 " Senate,'' the, 96, 97. 
 
 Suburban Places, 58. 
 
 Sicillian Fruiterers, 52, 54. 
 
 Trinity Church, 106. 
 
 Thompson, Bishop Hugh Miller, 
 108. 
 
 Terre au Boeuf, 126. 
 
 Telegraph Companies, 161, 
 
 Tivolis, 94. 
 
 Tulane Hall, 74* 
 
 " Twenty-one," 97. 
 
 UUoa, 10. 
 
 United States Barracks, 7, 59, 62. 
 
 Ursulines, 7. 
 
 " Old Convent, 100. 
 
 United States Mint. 33, 61, 70. 
 
 United States Custom-House, 69. 
 
 United States and State Exhibits, 
 
 University of Louisiana, 74. 
 
 Valuation of Real Estate, 36. 
 
 Valuation of Slaves, 37. 
 
 Valuation of Personal Property, 37. 
 
 Villere Charles Plantation, 126. 
 
 Wisconsin Infantry, Fourth, 34. 
 
 Warrants of State Auditor, 40. 
 
 West End, 63. 
 
 Wharves, 88. 
 
 Washington Artillery Armory, 74. 
 " Monument, 85. 
 
 Waring, Col. Geo. E., 105, 119. 
 
 Young Men's Christian Associa- 
 tion, 69. 
 
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