'^-^-^^.^-^ ""^^ jf .l.*^'* aT r^ ♦ «, a'' ^ ^ « « %.' o > .^ "'»<>■ ,0*^% ''!«^^:^ / '^o ■- • >- A^ "^ » " " » o ..f\ .<.'>'%. \ ^^9 BOSTON OF TO-DA\ / A GLANCE AT ITS HISTORY AND CHARACTERISTICS ^^3 WITH BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES AND PORTRAITS OF MANY OF ITS PROFESSIONAL AND BUSINESS MEN COMPILED UNDKR THE SUPERVISION OF RICHARD HERNDON EDIT E D I! V E t) W I N M . BACON ftllustratcli i „" -^ \ /»^^7 .^y ^ BOSTON POST I' U B L 1 S H I N G COMPANY 1892 t1- C6^' Copyrig-Ilt, 1R92 KICHAUD IIIillNDON BOSTON F73 .H55 TABLE OF CONTENTS. I, BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION: A Glance at the History of Boston — Its Development from THE Little Commercial Town to the Great Modern City . i II. BOSTON'S BUSINESS INTERESTS: Trade and Commerce a Half-century ago and now ... 3 III. TRADE CENTRES: Retail, Wholesale, and Financial Quarters, past and present . S IV. RAILROADS: Development of the Great Lines centring in Boston — The Street-Car System 10 V. SOME NOTEWORTHY BUILDINGS: Public and other Structures, Modern and Historic, and Insti- tutions within the Business Quarters 27 VI. THE NEW WEST END: Rise and Progress of the Back-Bay Improvement — Distinguish- ing Features of the District To-day — Its I^uildings, Churches, and Dwelliniis ........ 54 VII. THE SOUTH END: Its Development from the Narrow Neck — -Interesting Institu- tions AND Churches — The Gre.vp C.\thedral .... 73 VIII. NORTH AND OLD WEST ENDS: Quaint and Picturesi)UE Ways and By-ways — Be.ycon Hill and its Literary Quarter — Some Interesting Landmarks . . 81 IX. THE COMMON AND THE GARDEN: Modern Features of the Historic "Travning Field" of Wintiirop's Time and the Newer Park 85 iv lAlM.K OF CONTENTS. X. THE THEATRES: Earlier Boston Plaviiouses and those of To-day .... 90 XI. THE CLUBS: Features of the m.\ny Social and Professional Org.\nizations OF the Town 100 Xn. THE OUTLYING DISTRICTS: East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, Dorchester, Charlestown, West Roxbury, and Brighton 106 XIII. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES AND PORTRAITS of Business and Professional Men 120 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Boston Harhor, showinc the "Atlanta" of the White Squadron Richards Building ........ Station OF Boston & Ai.HANV Railroad .... Station of Boston & Maine Railroad — Western Division Station of Boston & Maine Railroad — East'ern Division . Station of Boston & Maine Railroad — Lowell Division . St'ation of the Old C(.)lonv Railroad — Providence Division Station of Old Colony R^ailroad — Main Division . Station of Old Colony Railroad at North Easton . .Station of Fitchburc; Railroad ..... View of Hoosac Tunnel, Fitchburc: Railroad . Sta'i ion at Waliham, FiTCHHURi; Railroad . Si Ai ion of the New York & New England Railroad, with Interior Views of " White Train I, The Roy:iI Smoker. 2. Dining C:lr. 3. Parlor Cnr. 4. Interior View of Pullman Sleeper, I-.ong Island Train. Station of Boston, Revere Beach, & Lynn Railroai View of Electric Car on Tremont Street, West End Street Railway S'TEAMER " SWAMPSCOTT," OF THE BoSTON, ReVERE BeACH, & LyNN RaILROAI Interior View of Power-house of West End Street Railway Interior View of Power-house of West End Street Railway Chamber of Commerce ....... Iron Building — G. T. McLauthlin & Co. Faneuil Hall ....... Proposed New Building of the Iniernational Trust' Company loiiN Hancock Building ..... Building of the American Bell Telephone Sta'te-street Exchan(;e . FiSKE Building ..... John C. Paige Insurance Building Ames Buildin(; ..... New Court House .... Sears Buildinc; ..... City Hall Company 7 9 1 1 12 '3 14 15 16 16 17 18 19 21 22 23 24 25 26 28 29 33 35 36 37 39 41 42 43 45 IJST OF II.IlSl'KA'l'IONS. Ai.moN BuiLDiNc — Houghton & DunoN . CHAnwK'K Buii.uiNG — W. H. Brine . State House ....... The Pemi!EK'I()n ...... BuiLDiNc; Of 'iHE American Protective League . Hotel Vendome ...... Copley Square New Puhmc l,iiikAK\- . . . . BuiLDiNi; OE THE American Legion of Honor Woodbury Building ...... Pierce Buii.dinc; ...... Langham Hotel ...... New EIngland Conserx'atorn- of Music Washingtonian Home ..... Building of the Pope Manufacturing Company . Public G.irden Interior View of Boston Theairf Interior View of Hollis-.street Theatre . Exterior View of the New Columbia Theairf . Building of the S. A. Woods Machine Company Works of the Walworth Manufacturing Company Bos'ton Gas Works ...... Residence of John P. Spaulding Residence of Charles V. Whitten . Building of -the Forbes Lithographic Company . Bunker Hill Monumen't ..... Works of tht; Low Ar't Tile Company Residenci: of \\'ilti\m F. Weld 47 49 5> 5-' 53 5 7 59 62 67 71 72 75 77 79 So go 95 9S 00 1 09 1 10 I I I I I 2 113 114 IIS 117 118 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION. A GLAN'CE AT THE HISTORY OF BOSTON HS DE- VELOPMENT FROM THE LITTLE COMMERCIAL TOWN TO THE GREAT MODERN CITY. A MONt; American cities Boston holds a unique A position. It is to-day at once tlie most famous of the few historic cities of the repubUc and in the best sense the most progressive. In no other city of our bounding country is there such a peculiar blending of the old and the new, the ancient and the modern, as here in Boston. In its business quarters are well-preserved landmarks of the colonial, the provincial, and the revolutionarv periods cheek by jowl with the most modern struct- ures of this age of progress. Sterling citizens suc- cessfully maintain conservative business methods, while enterprises of the greatest importance and magnitude in distant parts of the country, as well as within the city's boundaries, are fostered and ad- vanced by Boston merchants and Boston capitalists. Possessing the genius and sagacity of the merchants of the earlier Boston who won the famous sobriquet of " solid," the men of the Boston of To-day also display the characteristics which are found in the best type of the enterprising American of these times. While Boston men have developed from the compact little commercial town of fifty years ago the substantial modern metropolis, Boston cap- ital has built great Western cities and established great Western railways, developing the resources of the country and opening up its incalculable agricultural and mineral wealth. For many years after the settlement, the North End, the earliest " court end " of the town, was the greater part of Boston proper. The original Boston consisted of a "pear-shaped peninsula" about two miles long, and one mile wide at its broadest part, broken by little creeks and coves and diversified by three hills. The loftiest of these — reduced into our present Beacon hill — was described by the early chroniclers as " a high mountaine with three little hils on the top of it." And it was this forma- tion of the highest hill that suggested the name " Trimontaiue," first given the place by the set- tlers at Charlestown, and which Winthrop's men changed to "Boston" when they moved across the river, in October, 1630, and established the new town. Until after the Revolution the topographi- cal features of the town were not greatly changed. Towards the close of the last century, in 1784, Shurtleff relates, the North End, which had then " begun to lose its former prestige and gave un- questionable evidence of decay and unpopularity," contained about 680 dwelling-houses and tene- ments and 6 meeting-houses ; " New Boston," or that portion we now call the " Old West End," including Beacon hill, about 170 dwelling-houses and tenements ; and the South End, then extend- ing from the "Mill bridge " in Hanover street, over the old canal, to the fortifications on "the Neck," near Dover street, about 1,250 dwelling-houses, 10 meeting-houses, all the public buildings, and the ]:irincipal shops and warehouses. " Some of the mansion-houses of this part," says Shurtleff, writing twenty years ago, " would now be considered mag- nificent ; and the Common, although ])erhaps not so artistically laid out, with paths and malls as now, was as delightful a training-ground and pub- lic walk as at the present time." No streets had then been constructed west of Pleasant street and the Common. Early in the present century, in 1803, Charles street was laid out ; the next year Dorchester Neck and Point, the territory forming the greater part of BOSTON OF TO-DAY. what is now South Boston, were annexed to Boston ; twenty years later, when the town had become a city, came the great improvements of the elder Quincy, the second mayor,' whose administration covered six terms, t'rom 1823 to 1829. These included the building of the Quincy Market-house, officially termed the Faneuil Hall, to the confusion of citizens as well as strangers ; the opening of six new streets and the enlargement of a seventh ; and the acquisi- tion of flats, docks, and wharf rights to the extent of 142,000 square feet; "all this," says Quincy's Municipal History, " accomplished in the centre of a populous city not only without any tax, debt, or burden upon its pecuniary resources, but with large permanent additions to its real and productive prop- erty." Next, in 1830, the development of the newer South End, south of Dover street to the Rox- bury line, was begun, though not systematically pur- sued until about twenty years later; in 1833 the upbuilding of " Noddle's Island," before that time a " barren waste," we are told, but none the less a picturesque spot and a favorite with fishing-parties, was energetically started, when its name was changed to " East Boston ; " in 1857 the great " Back Bay Im- provement," the result of which is the beautiful "New AVest End" of to-day, began; at the same time the " marsh at the bottom of the Common," over which there had been controversy for years, was formally set apart for the Public Garden, and soon after systematic plans for its development made ; in 1867 the city of Roxbury was annexed to Boston by popular vote (becoming officially connected in January, 1868), in 1869 the town of Dorchester (officially joined in January, 1870), and in 1873 the city of Charlestown and the towns of Brighton and West Roxbury (officially, in January, 1874) ; and after the great fire of November, 1872, which burned over sixty-five acres in the heart of the busi- ness quarter and destroyed property valued at $75,- 000,000, immense street improvements were made through the widening and straightening of old thor- oughfares and the opening of new ones, and a more substantial and more modern business quar- ter, architecturally finer in some respects than any similar quarter in anv other American city, was built up. By the reclamation of the broad, oozy salt marshes, the estuaries, coverts, and bays once stretching wide on its southern and northern borders, the original 783 acres upon which Boston town was settled have been expanded to 1,829 acres 1 Boston was made a city in 1S22, and John Phillips, father of Wen- dell Phillips, was elected the first mayor. Tlie first city government was organized on the 1st of M.ay that year. of solid land, and by annexation from time to time 21,878 acres have been added,' making the present total 23,707 acres, or 37.04 square miles. Where the area was the narrowest it is now the widest, and in place of the compact little town of a hundred years ago on its "pear-shaped peninsula " less than two miles in its extreme length and its greatest breadth only a little more than one, is the greater Boston of To-day, extending from north to south eleven miles and spreading nine miles from east to west. In place of the population of 25,000 which the Boston of the first year of the present century counted, the Boston of To-day counts 450,000 ; and the taxable valuation of the city has increased from $15,095,700 in 1800, to §911,638,887 (Feb. i, 1S92). The total taxable area in the city is 716,- 215,872 square feet. The total number of dwelling- houses is 52,831 ; of hotels, 86 ; of family hotels, 512; of store buildings, 3,553; and miscellaneous, 5,728. In municipalities within a radius of eight miles of the State House the population in 1891 was over 680,000, and of twelve miles, 873,000, or 38.97 per cent, of the entire ]3opulation of the State. Of this surrounding territory the Boston ot lo-day is the real business centre. The greatest and most marked changes that have taken place between old and new Boston have been effected within the memory of many persons now living. In the transformation much of the pictur- esqueness and old-time charm has disappeared, but in their stead there is much in the beautiful modern city to delight the eye ; while the flavor of mellow age which with all its modernness the town yet re- tains, and the blending of the old and new which it so frequently displays, have a fascination which no other American city possesses. In its intellectual and artistic growth and development its progress has been as marked as in its physical aspects and its material prosperity. The great educational and literary institutions of the Boston of To-day, both public and private, stand among the very highest. Its public-school system, its Public Library, its Art Museum, its Museum of Natural History, its Insti- tute of Technology, its Athenaeum, and its collec- tions of historical treasures, are all in their way unsurpassed. In literature it has long been pre- eminent, and in spite of the gaps which death has made in the ranks of its authors, its primacy in this respect is not seriously threatened. Many of the most important books of the day bear the Boston - In this total are included the S36 acres secured by the develop- ment of East Boston, and the 785 acres of Breed's Island. No account is made of the 437 acres of Rainsford, Gallop's, Long, Deer, and Apple Islands, and the Great Brewster, all of which are within the city limits. BOSTON OF TO-DAY. im]irint, its publishing houses are among the fore- most in the country, and the best of its jieriodical pubUcations are held at the high standard which Boston was among the earliest in the history of American literature to reach. In the department of music its superiority is everywhere acknowledged. 'I'he first of American cities to take an advanced position with respect to musical taste and culture, it has steadfastly held the lead, and to-day its Symphony Orchestra and its many musical associations admir- ably maintain its position. Offering greater advan- tages than any other American city, and affording through the winters practically unlimited opportuni- ties of hearing the very best music of the highest grade, it attracts large numbers of musical students and patrons of the art. Its theatres, too, are among the most beautiful and comfortable in the country. And important factors in the social and cultivated life of the town are its numerous literary, art, pro- fessional, business, and social clubs, many of them established in finely appointed club-houses. In philanthropic, benevolent, charitable, and church work the Boston of To-day is also among the foremost. Its institutions for the benefit of the people or of those classes who need a helping hand, for the relief of the suffering and the afflicted, and for the care of the unfortunate, are many and varied ; and they are nobly sustained. It has been esti- mated that the capital invested in charitable work in the city is Si 6,000,000 ; that there is one charitable or benevolent society for every twenty thousand people within its boundaries ; and that the annual pri- vate contributions of Bostonians for benevolent pur- poses exceed half a million dollars. Through the local organization widely known as the " Associated Charities" many of the societies and associations are brought into close communion, and the work is so systematized that it is made more effective and thorough than it could possibly be were each organ- ization operating independently in the field. Of the church buildings many are fine examples of the best architectural work of the day, and in church prop- erty millions of dollars are invested. The religious organizations are active in many directions, and Boston clergymen are with other good citizens con- cerned in movements and work for the material as well as the spiritual well-being of the com- munity. In a word, the Boston of To-day is a great modern city, far reaching in its enterprise and industry, of manifold activities, a place of many attractions, well built, foirly adorned ; sustaining well the reputation which the old town bore as the commercial and in- tellectual capital of New England. II. BOSTON'S BUSINESS INTERESTS. TRADE AND COMMERCE A HALF-CENTURY AGO AND NOW. T^HERE are few men in active business life in the ^ Boston of To-day who can recall at all clearly the general outlines even of the Boston of half a cen- tury ago, and fewer still who can trace in detail the various and remarkable changes which have trans- formed the bustling little town of that time into the great city of to-day. In 1840 the three initial rail- roads, the Lowell, the Providence, and the Worces- ter, had been in operation but five years, up to which time the Middlesex Canal to tide-water at Clinton street, the "wonder of its day," ' had flourished, and the chief system of internal communication had consisted of numerous lines of stage-coaches and baggage-wagons, employing some thousands of fine horses. The first Cunard steamship had appeared in the harbor, and regular Atlantic steamship service had just begun. East Boston, which as late as 1833 had but one dwelling, had only recently been laid out in lots by the East Boston Company, char- tered in that year ; South Boston had less than five thousand inhabitants, distantly removed, save by toll- bridges, from Boston proper ; and the narrow penin- sula on which Boston was crowded was reached from the neighboring places by only one free road, that over Roxbury Neck. Of the aspect of the town at the beginning of the period from 1830 to 1840 a graphic picture was given in the interesting report of Edward J. Howard, secretary of the old Board of Trade for the year 1880, marking the two hundred and fiftieth anniver- sary of the settlement of the town. The area of the city had not been materially enlarged for a hundred years. Harrison avenue was then known as Front street (the name of Harrison was given it in 1841 in honor of General Harrison), and from Beach street to the old South Boston bridge was lined with wharves, where cargoes of wood, grain, and other commodities were landed and sold. There were but five houses between what is now Dover street and the Roxbury line.. Lands east and west of Wash- ington street, and a portion of the Common, were utilized for the pasturing of cows ; what is now Causeway street was an irregular and unbroken high- way. On Beacon hill were the residences of the 1 Begun in 1794 and opened to traffic in 1S03. It extended from Boston to the Merrimac at East Chelmsford, now I-owell, and water connection was fartlicr made as far north as Concord, N.H. It con- tinued in operation until June, 1S53. BOSTON OF TO-DA\-. newer aristocracy — along Beacon street, between the State House and Charles street, Hancock av- enue, Louisburg square, Mt. Vernon, Walnut, Chest- nut, Pinckney, Hancock, Temple, Bowdoin, and Somerset streets, on the western and southern slopes of the hill ; the older aristocracy still clinging to their stately dwellings on Tremont, Winter, Summer, Franklin, Atkinson (now Congress), Federal, High, and Purchase streets, Otis place, and even Washing- ton square on Fort hill, which was described in a weekly newspaper of the time as " a very princely quarter." Dock square was then the business cen- tre of the town, the principal mercantile streets being Court, Cornhill, Washington, Hanover, Union, State, North and South Market streets, Merchants row, Chatham, Blackstone, Commercial, India, Broad, Central, Doane, Water, Congress, Kilby, and Milk streets, and Liberty square. The hotels were few and primitive, with the single exception of the Exchange Coffee House, at the corner of State and Congress streets, built on the site of the greater and grander one burned on the night of the 3d of November, 1818,' where business men gathered on all public occasions ; but solid comfort and good cheer were ever to be found within their hospitable walls. The Eastern Stage House in Ann (now North) street, with its parte cochere, was the most venerable. Then there were the Earles' Coffee House on Hanover street, where the American House now is, through whose arched por- tals the .Albany stage started once a week ; the Lamb Tavern on Washington street, where the .Adams House now stands, and the Lion next, its site now covered by the Bijou Theatre ; the old Marlboro, on Washington, between Winter and Bromfield streets. 1 The original Exch.lnge Coffee House, built in iSoS, was a tre- mendous affair for its daVj and a costly speculation for those who en- gai^ed in it. More than $500,000 were sunk in the enterprise. It was a building of seven stories, covering an area of nearly 13,000 feet. The front, on Congress street, having an arched doorway, was showily ornamented with six marble pilasters of Ionic order on a rustic base- ment, supporting an entablature with aCtirinthian pediment, .\nother entrance, towards State street, was through an Ionic porch. Upon entering, one slooil in a greiit interior area, in the form of a parallelo. gram, seventy by fort}' feet, extending eighty-three feet to the roof, and lighted by a dome a hundred feet in diameter. .-Vroiind this area porticos extended, each consisting of twenty columns which reached from the ground floor to the roof, and supported galleries leading to the rooms of the hotel. The principal floor was intended for an Ex- change, but it was not used by the merchants, as they preferred to meet on 'Change — in the customary way — in the street. On this floor was the coffee-room, b.ar, and reading-room. The great dining-room, with tables for three hundred persons, was on the second floor. .'Vn arched ball-room, finished in the Corinthian order, extended through the third and fourth floors; and a masonic hall w,ns on the side of the fifth and sixth floors. Some famous dinners were given in the big dining- room, and the great personages who visited the town made the Coffee House their headquarters. Here Captain Hull stopped when at this port during the War of 1S12; the news of the peace was celebrated by a great dinner here, at which Harrison Grav Otis presided, on Wash- ington's Birthday in 1SJ5; and when President Monroe visited Boston in 1S17 he was entertained here at a banquet of great splendor. with its painted sign of " St. George and the Dragon ; " the Bromfield House on Bromfield street; the Mansion House and the Commercial Coffee House on Milk street ; the Bite Tavern on Faneuil Hall square ; and the old Hancock Tavern near by on Corn court. It was between the years 1820 and 1840 that the town enjoyed its greatest prosperity in foreign and domestic commerce, leading all its rivals in the ex- tent and richness of its trade. Then great fortunes were made by the merchants and shippers engaged especially in the China and East India trade, the spa- cious and secure harbor sparkled with shipping from the great ports of the world, and the wharves were crowded with vessels discharging and receiving car- goes. The principal wharves, lined with substan- tial warehouses. Long, Central, and India, were owned by corporations ; and so extensive were the shipping interests at the port during this period and for some years after, that wharf property was the most remunerative real-estate property in Boston, several wharves netting an annual income of from §20,000 to S6o,ooo. The old methods of doing business contrasted strangely with those of to-day, for the merchant had his counting-room in his warehouse and per- sonally superintended the sale of his goods, with the quality and value of which he was supposed to be most familiar. Merchandise brokers were scarcely known then, for with their conservative ideas the solid men of the Boston of that time held fost to the secrets of their trade. Their counting- rooms bore no trace of the showiness and splendor which mark the business offices of the merchants of to-day. There were no carpets, steam heat, bric-a-brac, luxuriously upholstered chairs and roll- top desks in those old-time counting-rooms, nothing but the severely plain furniture and fittings required for the actual transaction of business. "And yet," says Howard, " there was a mercantile aristocracy in those days. . . . We had merchant princes then. There were Perkins, Lyman, the Appletons, the Grays, the Lawrences, the Cunninghams, the Joys, Boardmans, Bryant, and Sturgis, the Hoopers, and a host from Marblehead, Salem, Gloucester, and Newburyport, who came to the front with their names and their checks when difficulties shadowed the metropolis." Provincial as were the old methods, the fame of her merchants extended far beyond the narrow limits of the Boston of that day, and their transac- tions covered a wide field. In 1830, Boston having absorbed the commerce which up to that time she had shared with Salem, Beverly, Marblehead, BOSTON OF '^o-l)A^^ 5 ( lloucester, and Newbiiryport, had become the com- mercial capital ot New England in fact as well as name ; and as the foreign commerce at that time was mainly limited to New England, her supremacy as a commercial power was unquestioned. " Then, with the development of our domestic manufactures dur- ing the decade 1830-1840," says Howard, "we emphatically impressed the markets of the world and successfully competed with England even within her own dominions, as we did a score of years later with our clipper ships when we nearly controlled the freighting commerce of the world." In was in 1844, four years after the establishment of the Cunard line, that Enoch Train started his line of famous packet-ships between Boston and Liverpool to meet the demands of the increasing trade between the two ports, and to supply the freight service which could not be furnished by the steamships then designed chiefly for passen- gers and mail service. Several of the finest ships of the line, remarkable for their excellent sailing qualities, were built at East Boston, and it speedily eclipsed the celebrated New York lines, which here- tofore had monopolized the business. Then began the building of the magnificent fleet of Boston freighting ships employed in the Southern, South ."American, and West Indian trade, and in that of California after the discovery of gold ; " a fleet that for twenty years," says Howard, " challenged the admiration and competition of the commercial world." Great ship-building yards were established in East Boston and South Boston, notably those of Donald McKay, Daniel D. Kelley, and E. and H. O. Briggs, and many of the finest and speediest ships ever built were launched from them. During this decade, from 1840 to 1850, "the coast of Africa trade and that of the Western Islands centred here. We had by far the largest trade between .America and Russia. . . . We monopolized the trade with Manila, the coast of Sumatra, Bombay and Calcutta, Valparaiso and Buenos Ayres, and had only Baltimore as a competitor for the Rio trade. . . . Boston at this time had a large trade direct with Holland and the south of Europe. The salt trade with St. Ubes and Cadiz was very large, but the Mediterranean and Straits trade was the most important of our European commerce. The arrivals from Bordeaux, Marseilles, Trieste, Messina, Palermo, Malaga, and Smyrna were the largest in number next to those of the West Indies, from foreign ports. . . . Except, perhaps, for one or two months in the year, it was almost impossible to find an unoccupied berth at anv of the wharves from Charlestown bridge to Fort hill, and in busy months the vessels would lie three deep at the dock, while in the stream there were hundreds awaiting a berth to discharge at." Then came the great changes wrought by the rapid development of railroad systems in the West ( largely through Boston capital) as well as in the East ; the supplanting of sailing-vessels by steam ; the shifting of leading commission houses, and later much of the foreign trade, from Boston to New York, which had been quicker to recognize the newer facilities for transportation and to adopt them; and finally the Civil War. With the development of the new systems of transportation newer business methods, in place of those which served so well the merchants of the earlier periods, were demanded ; greater and broader enterprise. After a season of painful hesitation the situation was grasped, and the business abilities of Boston merchants and capital- ists were again displayed in various directions. As a result, in course of time all branches of trade ex- panded, and the area of the city proper was extended to meet the demand for larger accommodation within the business quarters. During the decade from i860 to 1870 the costly Hoosac Tunnel,' into the building of which the State was drawn, was pushed towards completion, early in the next decade opening up a new avenue to the West ; the consoli- dation of the Boston & Worcester and the western railroads (in 1867) into the present Boston & Albany" directly affected the interests of the city and increased its foreign exports ; and the revival two years later of the Grand Junction Railroad, with its docks at East Boston, — chartered in 1847, opened in 185 1, the year of the great Railroad Jubilee,' and originally intended to connect the rail- road lines centring in the city, — proved another valuable addition to the facilities of the city for the transaction of its trade and commerce. New steam- ship lines, foreign and coastwise, were also estab- lished and terminal facilities improved. The levelling of Fort hill"* (begun in 1869), and the 1 See chapter on Railroads. - See chapter on Railroads. ■'To celebrate the opening of railroad communication between Boston, tlie Canadas, and the West, and the establishment of steam- ship lines to Liverpool. It continued through three days, —the 17th, iSth, and iQth of September, 1851. It was attended by Lord Elgin, then the governor-general of Canada, and his suite, President Fill- more and members of his Cabinet, and other men of distinction in Canada as well as the L'nited States. There were receptions, parades, trades processions, a grand dinner under a paviliim on the parade- ground and Charles-street mall of the Common, and a brilliant night illumin.ation of the city. 31 m o 31 CO X o H X in I H m en c > o 31 o z BOSTON OF TO-DAY. III. TRADE CENTRES. RF.-IAIL, WHOLESALE, AND FINANCIAL QLAKIERS, PAST AND PRESENT. ONE result of the " (Ireat Fire of 1872," and of the growth of the various branches of trade during the prosperous period succeeding the busi- ness depression of 1873-7, ^^'^s a shifting of busi- ness centres. A generation ago the dry-goods merchants, both wholesale and retail, were mostly established in the lower part of Washington street, Tremont row, Court and Hanover streets. Boston was at one time the chief dry-goods market of the country, and as the mills grew in number more territory was required, and the wholesale trade moved into large granite stores on Milk, Kilby, and Atkinson (that part of the present Congress street south of Milk) streets, and Liberty square. Subsequently Pearl street was occupied until it was crowded out by the leather trade ; and then its present quarters on Devonshire, Summer, and Franklin streets, \Mnthrop square, Chauncy, Kingston, and Bedford streets, were established. The retail dry-goods trade for many years cen- tred on Hanover street when that thoroughfare was nearest the residential parts of the town. Then it worked southward, until to-day it extends from ScoUay square to Boylston street, the greater estab- lishments occupying choice positions on Washing- ton, Winter, and neighboring streets. A\"ith other retail shops it has invaded the quarters long re- served for the best dwellings, — Tremont street fuc- ing the Common, Beacon street at one end and Boylston street at another. The popular retail shopping district now embraces, besides Washing- ton and Tremont streets between the points above named. Park, \\'inter, and parts of Summer streets. Temple place and West street, and is pushing down Boylston street into the sacred precincts of the Back Bay district, cutting into the fine sweep of comfortable dwellings on the slope of Beacon hill opposite the Common, and crowding residences from Beacon street opposite the Public Garden. The ready-made clothing trade, an immense in- dustry to-day, is the outgrowth through various stages of sailors' outfitting establishments. Origi- nally it was confined to the North End, but when John Simmons, of Quincy Market hall, and George \\'. Simmons, we are told, first advanced the char- acter of the trade to a mercantile standard, it fol- lowed the dry-goods trade, and is now established in the qu;irter which that in ]iart occupies. The shoe and leather industry, for which lioston has been from the beginning the market centre, began to assume large proportions as far back as 1830. For many years the .American House, built in 1835, was the headquarters of the trade, and Fulton street was the business centre. In 1849 the trade began to move southward into Pearl street, then mainly occupied by wholesale dry- goods houses ; and within a short time this section became its new centre. Then block after block of dwellings on High street were levelled to make room for warehouses. .After the fire of 1872, which wiped out the district, it was rebuilt, and for several years the trade continued to cling to it. Then a tendency towards Summer street about and beyond old "Church green" was taken; and later the trade spread into Lincoln and South streets, where a number of fine building blocks have been in re- cent years erected. This section, which is now the centre of the trade, is within easy reach of four large railroad lines, and near by is the Shoe and Leather Exchange, where trade reports are regularly buUe- tineti during business hours, established in one of a group of buildings remarkable for tl>eir solidity and architectural finish. The great wool trade is to-day mostly concen- trated on Federal, Pearl, and High streets ; the paper trade, which has developed extensively dur- ing the past forty years, on Federal street and its vicinity ; in the same neighborhood, principally on Federal and Franklin streets, is the crockery trade, which uiiports large quantities of goods for inland I distribution ; on Milk street and its vicinity the whole- sale drug trade; and on Fort Hill square audits neighborhood the iron trade and the hardware trade, which before the fire of 1872 was confined chiefly to Dock square (now lost in Adams square) and its vicinity. The wholesale grocery, fish, salt, and the flour and grain interests still hold fast to their old quarter, including Commercial, India, Broad, and adjacent streets near the water-front ; the produce trade is mainly on South Market, Chatham, and Commercial streets ; the headquarters of the provision trade are in Commerce street and the streets about Faneuil- Hall Market ; the jobbing foreign fruit trade is on Merchants row, Chatham, and South Market streets and their neighborhood ; and the great tea, cofiee, and sugar interests are on Broad street and its im- mediate vicinity. The financial centre, as in the early days, is still State street, although the banks are scattered over the business sections of the city. But within the compact territory bounded by State, Washington, i L I ■ ■ §m RICHARDS BUILDING. lO BOSTON OF TO-DAY. Milk, and Broad streets, or its immediate neighbor- hood, the greater number of leading banks are found ; and the private banking-houses, the trust companies, the safety- vaults, the offices of the stock- brokers, the insurance agencies, the real-estate brokers and agents, the financial offices of the great Western railroad companies which are estab- lished here in Boston, and the Stock Exchange. IV. RAILROADS. DEVELOPMENT OF THE GREAT LINES CENTRING IN BOSTON THE STREET-CAR SYSTEM. THE great railroad industry which in the past two decades has assumed such vast proportions and has accomplished so much in the development of the country and its resources, vastly increasing its prosperity and binding sections together, had its origin here in Boston. It seems almost incredible that within the memory of men yet in active life, there was not a single railroad in all the United States, and that all means of transportation for both passengers and freight were by the stage-coach, baggage-wagon, the packet-ship, the coaster, or the canal-boat. New York City and Albany were dis- tant from Boston by a three days' journey, and the trip was attended by much discomfort and not a little danger. The project of establishing a canal from Boston westward through the State to the Connecticut river and thence to the Hudson, to overcome the effect of the canal enterprises of New York which in the twenties were drawing trade, both domestic and ex- port, in that direction and away from this port, had long been talked of, and in 1825 a State commis- sion was established to ascertain the practicability of making such a canal. This commission made a voluminous report the following year, presenting the results of surveys and estimates of cost, but no action was taken ; and the same year the idea of the rail- road was substituted for that of the canal, one result of the enterprise of Gridley Bryant, aided by the financial support and public spirit of Col. T. H. Perkins, both Boston men. This was the construc- tion and opening of the "Granite Railway" for the purpose of conveying granite from the Quincy quar- ries to the water. Although this pioneer railroad, the first built in the country, was, with its branches, but four miles long, constructed in a primitive fashion, and operated by horse-power, it was the germ from which the perfected systems sprung. Petitions from Boston now appeared in the Legisla- ture for surveys on the part of the State for a railway to the Hudson, and with much hesitation were finally granted. But although sur\'eys were speedily begun, it was not until after four years of discussion that anything practical was accomplished. Two entire routes were surveyed, one, the southern, fol- lowing nearly the line of the present Boston & Albany, and the other much the same route as the present Fitchburg Railroad. The commissioners reporting upon them invariably proposed a railroad operated only by animal-power, the final report, that of 1829, recommending a double-track line, the space between the rails to be graded for a horse- path. At length, in 1830, petitions for the incor- poration of private railroad companies were filed in the Legislature, and that year the first charter was granted, that of the Boston & Lowell ; and the next year the Boston & ^^'o^cester and the Boston & Providence were chartered. Thus the State happily was kept out of the railroad business into which it had been in danger of drifting. Of the great systems now centring in Boston, the Boston &= Albany is entitled to first mention, as it includes the line first opened. The charter of the Boston & Worcester became law on June 23, 1 83 1. The corporation was empowered to construct a railroad in or near Boston and thence to any part of \A"orcester. The capital stock was 10,000 shares, at par value of Si 00 each. On the ist of ALiy, 1832, the corporation was formally organized. The length of the road according to surveys was about 43}^ miles, and the estimated cost, including equipment (the road-bed to be graded for a double track), was §883,000. On the 15th of March, 1833, the di- rectors of the Worcester line were individually incor- porated as the Western Railroad Corporation, with authority to locate and construct a railroad from the Worcester terminus to the Connecticut river in Springfield, and thence across the river to the western boundary of the State in a direction towards the Hudson. The capital stock was to consist of not less than 10,000 or more than 20,000 shares of Si 00 par value. Thus from the first the Boston & Worcester controlled the charter of the Western. In the meantime the New York Legislature incorpo- rated the Castleton & West Stockbridge Railroad Company to construct a road from Castleton, N.Y., nine miles below Albany, to the State line at West Stockbridge. Two years later the name was changed to the Albany & West Stockbridge, with authority to extend the line to Greenbush, across the Hudson O CO H O z > z •< > r O > D BOSTON OF TO-DAY. STATION OF BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD — WESTERN DIVISION. from Albany. In May, 1834, the Boston & Worces- ter was partially opened for travel (to Newton only), the cars drawn by English-built locomotives, thus having the distinction of being the first steam rail- road operated in New England. The line was com- pleted to Worcester on the 4th of July the follow- ing year, and the event was duly celebrated on the 6th with a dinner and speeches. The road was con- structed by engineers w-ho had never seen any of the English roads, and many original devices were followed. Not only were the earlier locomotives imported from England, but the men to run them. American locomotive works, however, were soon es- tablished, and during the very first year of the oper- ation of the Worcester road an American-made loco- motive was placed upon its tracks and performed efficient service. In 1841, on the 4th of October, the AN'estern road was completed from Worcester to the New York line, the Connecticut-river bridge having been finished on July 4th; and on the 21st of December following the connecting link in New York to .-Mbany was completed, and on that day trains were run, thus opening a direct rail line from Boston to Albany. This important event was com- memorated in March, 1842, by a meeting of the executive officers of the States of Massachusetts and New York and other prominent men at the Town Hall in Springfield. At the banquet notable speeches were made, and one toast, which has gone into history, was that offered by General Root, of New York, who gave : " The happy union of the sturgeon and the codfish ; may their joyous nuptials efface the melancholy recollection of the departure of the Connecticut-river salmon." The Boston & ^Vorcester and the \\'estern railroads were operated as two distinct corporations until 1869, when they were consolidated under the present title of the Boston & Albany Railroad Company. This corpo- ration now owns and operates 375.70 miles of track, and also the Grand Junction Railroad and its finely equipped wharves at East Boston, thus securing a deep-water connection. It has here a substantial grain elevator with a capacity of .1,000,000 bushels, and another in the city proper, on Chandler and BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 13 Berkeley streets, with a capacity of 500,000 bushels. Its main passenger station on Kneeland street has a comfortable head-house and well-arranged train- house 444 feet long and iiS'^4 wide. Its line to New York City is one of the most popular; four fast trains to that city are daily sent out, the 4 o'clock P.M. train making the run in six hours ; and its Western business is very extensive. On all the express trains and road equipment are the most approved devices for the comfort and safety of its passengers. The president of the Boston & Albany is William Bliss ; the general-manager, W. H. Barnes, and general superintendent, H. T. Oallu].!. The Bos/on e^ Alaitie Railroad — formed in 1842 by the consolidation of the Boston & Port- land, chartered in Massachusetts in 1833, the Boston & Maine, chartered in New Hampshire in 1835, and the Maine, New Hampshire, &: Massachusetts, chartered in Maine in 1836, and opened to the junction of the Portland, Saco, & Portsmouth at South Berwick, Me., in 1843 — is entitled to second mention, from the fact that it now operates as part of its own system the original Boston & Lowell. The latter was the shortest of the initial roads, but early in its career made connection with Nashua, N.H., and then with the New Hampshire and Ver- mont systems to the Canadian line. The Boston & Maine leased the Boston & Lowell and its systems in 1887, thus securing the control by lease of the Boston, Concord, & Montreal, the Nashua & Lowell, the Keene branch, the Northern New Hampshire, and several minor connecting roads, and the Central Massachusetts. Connection was thus made with New York via the Worcester & Nashua (included in another lease), and with Philadelphia, Baltimore, & \^'ashington via the Central Massachusetts and the Poughkeepsie bridge. Three years before, in December, 1884, the Boston & Maine had effected a lease of the Eastern (chartered in 1836, the original line from East Boston to the New Hampshire line, opened in 1840), which then controlled the traffic to the northern shores of Massachusetts and New Hampshire, as well as the bulk of the White Moun- STATION OF BOSTON & MAiNE RAILROAD — EASTERN DIVISION. 14 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. tain travel. Thus consolidated the Boston & Maine templated. Until his sudden death in January, reaches a much larger area directly by its own lines 1892, James T. Furber was the general manager of than any other system in New England. The total this great system ; he had long been the superin- STATION OF BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD — LOWELL DIVISION. length of all lines operated is 1,210.03 niiles : 315.7 owned ; 894.33 leased. At present it continues the three distinct stations, — its own in Haymarket square, and the old Eastern and Lowell stations in Causeway street ; but a great union station is con- tendent of the Boston & Maine before consolida- tion. Col. John W. Sanborn is now (1892) general manager, and Daniel W. Sanborn general superin- tendent. The president of the Boston & Maine system is Frank Jones. BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 15 i i The Old Colony Railroad having absorbed by lease the Boston & Providence, the third of the earliest railroads, is next in the list. Chartered March 16, 1844, the original line between Boston and Plymouth (opened in 1845), it has gradually extended its operations both by building and leasing, until it has be- come the second largest rail- road system in New England. It now reaches the south-east- ern sections of the State, the western part through its leased lines, and, by its Providence division, New York, by one of the best all-rail Boston and New V'ork lines. It also con- trols the three famous Long Island Sound steamer lines, — the Fall River, the Ston- ington, and the Providence, the vessels of which are the largest side-wheelers afloat. Before its acquisition of the Boston & Providence it had absorbed the Fall River, the Newport and Fall River, the F^astern Branch, the South Shore, the Vineyard Sound, the Duxbury and Cohasset, the Dorchester and Milton, the Cape Cod, the Boston, Clinton, Fitchburg and New Bedford, the Taunton and Middleboro, and the Framingham and Lowell railroads. It also includes in its system Gridley Bryant's " Granite Railway," a part of which exists in its original form to the present day. The lease of the Boston & Providence, with all its branches and leased roads, was secured in 1888; and the control of the Providence, Warren, & Bristol road is included in this consolicLation. The system now embraces 577 miles of owned and leased lines of railroad, besides the controlling interest in the three Sound steamboat lines. The Old Colony also con- trols the Union Freight Railway, the tracks of which extend along the water-front from its own system to that of the Boston & Maine. This road is a dis- tributor of freight among all the steam railroads entering the city, and to leading wharves for lading steamships and other vessels. The station of the Providence division of the Old Colony is one of the rlJ i If I I -,^l^ ji^ ^ -^ iil '^^y i^i->^*^.^^ STATION OF THE OLD COl-ONY RAI LROAD — PROVIDENCE DIVISION. finest m the city : one of the few railway stations in which architectural effect as well as utility was con- sidered in the plan and construction. The presi- dent of the Old Colony system, Charles F. Choate, and the general superintendent, J. R. Kendrick, have been for many years connected with the road. The charter of the Fitchburg Railroad Company is dated March 3, 1842, and in 1845 the road was completed between Cambridge and Fitchburg. After its extension into Boston, in 1848, its growth was small and slow for more than a (inarter of a cen- tury. In those years when the north-western part of the State was barred by the Hoosac Mountains from rail communication with the Hudson and the West, the Fitchburg was confined to performing its part in local New England transportation. As late as 1873 the mileage of the road was anything but large, — only 50 miles of main line and 43 more of branches. Its capital stock was ;j!4,5oo,ooo, and it had not a 1 6 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. dollar of debt, floating or bonded. In 1847 the passenger station, now a striking feature of Cause- way street, with its walls and battlemented towers of dark gray stone, was built, — the oldest railway SIAIION Of OLD COLONY RAILROAD MAIN DIVISION. Station now in use in the city. The directors in their report to the stockholders for 1848 offer their congratulations on the completion of the building, but find it necessary to make apologies for its size and elegance. In those early days of railroads such a space as this station afforded was more than ample, and its projectors evidently thought it big enough for the Fitchburg Railroad for all time. Now, however, its utmost limits are barely sufficient, and doubtless in the near future the solid structure will give place to one more suitable for the needs of the terminus of a great and growing trunk line. The years immediately following the incorporation of the Fitchburg saw the incorporation and con- struction of the various roads which now form a part of its present great system. The Vermont & Massa- chusetts was chartered March 15, 1844, and formed the line, 56 miles long, between Fitchburg and Greenfield. In the last fifteen years the Fitchburg company has greatly improved this property, expend- ing upwards of $2,000,000 in the addition of a second track and in straightening the curves, so far as the rugged nature of the country would j^ermit ; and its physical condition to-day is fully equal to the requirements of the heavy traffic which now passes over it. That which gives to the Fitchburg Railroad its distinctive character, and has enabled it to develop itself from the status of a local road to that of a trunk line, is the Hoosac Tunnel. The plan of tunnelling the mountain was first proposed in the report of the State commission of 1825 on the Boston and Hudson-river canal project. Colonel Laommi Baldwin, who made the surveys, recommending a canal tunnel through it. When the rail- roads were introduced and the cause of the canal was lost, agitation for a rail- road tunnel soon began. In 1848 this bore fruit in the organization of the Troy & Greenfield Railroad Company for the construction of a line from (Ireenfield up the valley of the Deer- field river through the mountain to the ^'ermont line. \\'ork, however, was not begun until 1852, and twenty-one years passed before it was completed. For the first ten years the undertaking was in the hands of private parties, and then the State was compelled to finish the job. In 1866 the railroad was completed to the mouth of the tunnel, and was operated by the Fitchburg and Vermont & Massachusetts rail- roads jointly until 1874. The date when the hole was finally put through was Novem- ber 27, 1873, but regular trains did not run until 1875. The total cost of the tunnel was §26,000,- 000, and it is an interesting fact that when tunnel- ling was first projected in 1825 the cost was estimated at $1,948,557. The year 1874 marks the point at which the Fitchburg Railroad ceases to be of local importance only. The volume of cereal products coming East and of manufactured articles going West was already enormous, and the final opening of the tunnel gave the opportunity of or- ganizing another route by which a share of the busi- ness could be attracted to Boston. Towards this STATION OF OLD COLONY RAILROAD AT NORTH EASTON. ;».«* i8 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. VIEW OF HOOSAC TUNNEL, FITCHBURG RAILROAD. end the Fitchburg leased the Vermont & Massa- chusetts by which to assure its connection with the Troy & Greenfield and the tunnel at Greenfield. This acquisition raised the amount of its capitaliza- tion from $4,500,000 to about 89,000,000. During the following year were incurred the expenditures for improving this new part of the line, and at the same time extensive improvements were made in terminal facilities here in Boston in anticipation of the large business to come through the tunnel. To pay for this the Fitchburg increased its capital stock and issued more than $5,000,000 of bonds. In 1885 it purchased the Boston, Barre, & Gardner, 36 miles long, giving a connection with \\"orcester and southern New England points. The increase due to this addition, and to the improxenients above men- tioned, raised the capitalization so that in 1886 the company controlled property representing Si 6,000, - 000. The contract for the operation of the Troy & Greenfield by the Fitchburg and the Vermont & Massachusetts jointly expired in 1874, and from that time until 1S87 that road was operated by the F'itch- BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 19 burg on the toll-gate system. On this system, how- ever, no ]:)rofit could be gamed by the State out of the operation of the tunnel. The cost of the under- taking to the Commonwealth had finally reached the sum of ;^24,ooo,ooo ; it had for some time stood at the head of the list of the State's non-paying invest- ments, and financiers were agreed that the best course to pursue was to dispose of the property to a purchaser. The Fitchburg from the start was con- fessedly a bidder, and at once entered into negotia- tions. The price which was at first considered fiiir was the modest sum of §4, 5 00,000, but other inter- ests soon put in an appearance with the effect of advancing the Commonwealth's idea of the value of its property. The modest sum mentioned above was suggested in October, i885, but at the end of the year the tunnel was considered worth not less than 1 1 0,000,000, and that was the price finally agreed upon with the Fitchburg. The terms of the agree- ment required the consolidation of the two roads under the name of the Fitchburg Railroad Com- pany. Immediately upon the acquisition of the tunnel, and as a necessary outcome of the policy which was first instituted by the lease of the Ver- mont & Massachusetts, an arrangement was made for the control of the Troy & Boston, the line run- ning from the Vermont line to Troy, N.Y., a distance of 37 miles. Then on June i, 1887, the Fitchlnirg assumed possession of the Boston, Hoosac Tunnel, & ^\'estern road, whose main line extended from the Vermont line, 62 miles, to Rotterdam Junction, there connecting with the West Shore road, its total iiiileage, including the branch to Saratoga, 87 miles. Both of these roads had been for some years non- dividend-paying properties, mainly owing to the fact that they parallel each other for most of their dis- tance. The standard of their track and rolling-stock had been brought to a low ebb, and large sums had to be expended to remedy this deficiency. The fact of the lines running parallel from Vermont State line to Johnsonville was taken advantage of to extend the double-track system to the latter point. On October i, 1890, the Cheshire Railroad became a part of the Fitchburg, adding ^2,625,000 in stock and S8oo,ooo in bonds to its capitalization, and 64 miles to its mileage. Through this line control by a connection with northern and Canadian points, by way of Bellows Falls, was gained. In less than A STATION AT WALTHAM, FITCHBURG RAILROAD. 20 ROSTON OF TO-DAY. twenty years the Fitcliljurg has more than ciuad- rupled itself, and the necessary expenditures incident to such a rapid development have severely strained the earning capacity. The Hoosac Tunnel route, however, may still be considered in its infancy, for not five years have passed since the Fitchburg gained the key to the situation, — the tunnel. The total mileage of the Fitchburg is now 436 miles. As a measure toward the more advantageous hand- ling of through freight, and especially of the export traffic to Liverpool and other European ports, the Hoosac Tinuu'l Dock and Elevator Company was organized in 1879 under the auspices of the Fitch- burg road. A grain elevator with a capacity of 600,000 bushels was built in the Charlestown dis- trict, together with four piers suitable for large steam- ships. To-day three lines of steamships run regu- larly from the docks of the company, — the Leyland, the Furness, and the Allan lines, — for the ports of Liverpool, London, and Glasgow respectively. The history of the New York &• Nezv England Railroad is a peculiar one. The railroad now owned by that corporation is the result of a consolidation of a large number of roads which were organized at different times, and at different places, and for different purposes. Very soon after the first railway in the country was constructed public meetings were held in Middletown, Conn., and subscriptions made as early as 1833, for the purpose of making surveys looking to the construction of a through line between Boston and New York, to run via Middletown. The same year a company was chartered in Connecticut to construct a road from Hartford to the quarries in the Bolton Mountains ; and a charter was granted in Massachusetts for a road from Worcester towards New London. The road which was organized in Connecticut as the result of the meeting in Middle- town was consequently consolidated with a comp.iny chartered in Massachusetts and another compiny chartered in Rhode Island, and the road from Boston to New York, as originally contemplated, was finally completed in 1872, and now forms the shortest route between these cities, and is the route over which the popular " New England Limited," or so-called " Ghost Train," runs. The road from Hartford to the Bolton Mountains was not immedi- ately constructed, but the charter was revived in 1849, and the road built from Providence to Water- bury, Conn., a portion of which now forms a part of the main line of the New Y'ork & New England from Boston to the Hudson river. The road from Worcester towards New London was constructed about the year 1838 from Worcester to Norwich, and is leased to the New York & New England ; and it now forms, with the boats of the Norwich and New York Transportation Company, controlled by it, the through rail and boat line called the " Nor- wich Line" from Boston to New York. The Massa- chusetts portions of the road were originally chartered as local roads, about the year 1849 : the Walpole road, extending from Dedham to Walpole ; the Nor- folk County, from Dedham to Blackstone ; the Charles River Branch and Charles River, from Brookline to \Yoonsocket. Under a peculiar charter granted by the Legislature of Connecticut in 1863 the company known as the Boston, Hartford, & Erie was organized with the right to purchase any road which might form a part of the through line from Boston to the West. This company purchased several small roads, and by consolidating and uniting them sought to complete a road from Boston to a connection with the Erie road at the Hudson river. A mortgage was made covering all the consolidated roads for ^20,000, 000, known as the " Berdell mortgage." The State of Massachusetts was induced to take between three and four million dollars of these bonds. A portion of them were sold to the F^rie road, and the balance was mostly taken by capitalists here in Boston and vicinity. Failing to complete the road with the i)roceeds of these bonds, application was again made to the Massachusetts Legislature for State aid. This was denied, and the property was placed in the hands of a receiver. The trustees under the Berdell mortgage, Messrs. William T. Hart and Charles P. Clark, took posses- sion, foreclosed the mortgage April 17, 1873, and the New Y'ork & New England Railroad Company was organized from the bondholders, each bond- holder receiving ten shares of New Y'ork & New England stock for each Berdell bond held by him. The New York & New England Company then com- pleted the road from Putnam to AVillimantic and from Waterbury to the river, and paid off all the underlying mortgages, obtaining the necessary money for this purpose by making a new first mortgage on its property for ^10,000,000 and a second mortgage for $5,000,000. In 1883 the company became financially embarrassed, and its property was placed in the hands of a receiver on the ist of January, 1884. The debts were paid by the issuing of pre- ferred stock, and tfie jirojierty was again restored to the company on the ist of January, 1885. Since that time its business has continued to increase from year to year, and its gross earnings for the year end- ing June 30, 1891, were between six and seven millions of dollars. The company now owns and controls over 600 miles of road which form direct connection between the cities of Boston, Providence, ■ ^s ^ fc- i:h^:^ '4 ^^P^^^^HI^'i''' ^^W^_si^^^M j>^\ ^^ -^^M ^ ^^^ ■-- - -'^i r »^"^?^| ^J^P" ^^ Li /^^ '^^ '^^^^' w Mf a —J 1 ^ 1 ill* n ^^HK ffvl^lSI' -■■'i ^En HI PP' t 1 •• X '1 • "iiJi L £^. S- ^ M i^- «• STATION OF THE NEW YORK & NEW ENGLAND RAILROAD. WITH INTERIOR VIEWS OF "WHITE TRAIN." 1. THE ROYAL SMOKER. 2. DINING CAR. 3. PARLOR CAR. 4. INTERIOR VIEW OF PULLMAN SLEEPER, LONG ISLAND TRAIN. 22 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. Worcester, Springfield, and Hartford, New York, and the South and West, and it is one of the largest roads in New England. It also possesses admirable terminal facilities at tide-water. The present presi- dent (1892) is Charles Parsons. Bosto7i, Revere Beach, 6^ Lynn Railroad. Eigh- teen or twenty years ago attention was called to large tracts of unoccupied land in East Boston and Revere, and in the immediate vicinity of Revere beach, and the plan was conceived of opening up STATION OF BOSTON, REVERE BEACH, & LYNN RAILROAD. these lands by building a narrow-gauge railroad, which at that time, as the result of the successful Festiniog Railroad in Wales and the use of the Fairlee bogie engines, was coming into vogue in this country. By a happy thought the new line was projected along the crest of Revere beach and across the Saugus river to the foot of Market street, Lynn, thus in connection with the ferry across Boston harbor, making a short and attrac- tive route between the two cities. The road was rapidly, in fact, hastily, built and put in operation. It was but a single-track road using a light thirty-five- pound iron rail, and the bridges were of the most temporary form of construction. The road was opened in July, 1875, and immediately made Revere beach accessible to thousands of pleasure seekers who before could reach it only by a long circuitous drive. The road earned during the summer months a handsome surplus over expenses. The next, or centennial year, the ])henomenal business was re- peated, but unsettled land damages, together with the purchase of additional equipment, taxed the resources of the road, so that at the close of the year its stock was below par. January i, 1877, a new management took charge, the president being the late Edwin Walden, of Lynn. The indebtedness was funded, the land-damage claims were settled, and a systematic improvement of the road-bed, structures, and equipment undertaken. The attractions of the beach were advertised, and outdoor entertainments on the grounds of the Ocean House were instituted, the success of which led to the establishment of the Point of Pines enterprise. The buildings of the latter were opened in 1881, and a great increase in the summer business of the road followed. The regular running of trains the year round, to- gether with the addition of evening trains, soon began to develop the lands of the land com- panies, resulting in the rapid growth of the present villages of Crescent beach, Beachmont, and \\'inthrop, the latter being reached by a separate road afterwards consolidated with the main line. In 1882 the superintendent, Mr. Whorf, resigned to take charge of the Tampico Division of the Mexican Central, and his as- sistant, Charles A. Hammond, of Lynn, was elected to his place. Under Mr. Hammond's charge the road had been double-tracked and steel-railed, its equipment nearly doubled, new stations built, a circuit line in Winthrop con- structed, and other improvements completed, notably the terminal station and ferry-slij) in Boston. For the past three years fifteen-min- ute trains have been run the greater part of the day during the summer season, while the increased business from Winthrop has been jjrovided for bv "through" trains. On March 12, 1889, occurred the death of President Walden, under whose man- agement the road had attained solid prosperity and the value of the stock had quadrujiled. The present president is Melville O. Adams. The Street Railway system was introduced in Boston in 1856, the first line, established by the Metropolitan Company (chartered in 1853), from Boylston street to Ouild row, Roxburv. This was opened in SeiJtember, and before winter had fairly set in the line at the Boston end was extended to Scollay square. Thereafter the development of the system was rapid. In December the same year m o ^ o o > 33 o Z H 3] m S o m f -M BOSTON OF TO-DAY. the Suiith Boston line was o|)ened, and earlier in the tnnlerground conduit was tried, and beyond the season the Cambridge ; the next year the West Chester park the overhead trolley wires were Middlesex to Charlcstown ; and in 1859 a line to used. About a month later some electric cars of Brookline. Very soon all these lines were extended Thomson-Houston make were started between in variotis directions, and spurs thrown out, and the Bowdoin square and Harvard square, Cambridge, principal business thoroughfares of the city were They were operated by the Thomson-Houston occupied l)v the rails. In 1S72 the Highland line, company for six months, and the test proving satis- in competition with the .Metropolitan, was estab- factory to the \Vest End Company it gave an order lished, and in 1882 the Charles-river, in competi- for 600 motors. This was the first decisive step in tion with the Cambridge lines. Then in 1887 the adoption of the system which was subsequently began the revolution in the street-railway system, extended over the city. The con(hiit line proving brought about l)y the West End Company. It was unsatisfactory had before that been abandoned, a very modest beginning. The original capital was By autumn the work of introducing the new sys- but j;8o,ooo, and the line was primarily intended to tem had begun in earnest. The power was origi- run to Brookline, for the purpose of developing the nally furnished from a ]wwer-house in AUston and territory in that town controlled by the \\'est End from the Cambridge Electric Light Company, but Land Company. Consolidation of the existing soon the \\'est End Company ]jurchased the old companies with the West End, however, speedily Hinckley Locomotive Works, with grounds extend- followed. First the Metropolitan was secured ; ing from Harrison avenue to .Albany street, and then the Highland acquired the Middlesex; next here began the construction of its own great power- the Cambridge and the Charles-river were united ; house equipped with Macintosh & Seymour en- and finally the West F2nd, with $6,000,000 of pre- gines and Thomson-Houston generators. Mean- ferred stock, $1,500,000 common stock, and while the rolling-stock of the company \vas rapidly $1,500,000 in outstanding bonds, was in posses- increased and its number of routes increased. In sion of them all. At the time of the consolidation, 1891 it had 469 electric cars on its lines and 1,692 effected the 12th of November, 1887, the new horse-cars; of the electric cars, 255 with a seating company owned 1,480 cars and nearly 8,000 horses, capacity one-third greater than the old short cars. A year later there were 500 more cars and a thou- With the opening of 1892, 172 more long cars sand more horses. On the ist of January, 1889, were ready for the electric service. Three types the first experimental electric line was started, of electric cars are employed : the eight-wheel cars. This ran from Park square to Chestnut hill and designed by Louis Ptingst, the master mechanic of Allston. From the scpiare to A\'est Chester ]>ark the road; the six-wheel Robinson radial cars ; and the Pullman double-deckers. One having a fondness for figures has made this pictur- esque calculation : that the cars of the consolidated lines go twice around the globe every day : they carry twice the number of peoiile in the L^nited States every year ; the cars in a train would extend twenty miles ; the car-houses cover more ground than is included in the Public Gar- den. In 1890 the West End Company obtained a charter for elevated railways, but operations under it were sus- ]jended pending the report and recommendations of the Rapid Transit Commission created by the Legislature of STEAMER "SWAMPSCOTT." OF THE BOSTON, REVERE BEACH, & LYNN RAILROAD. '89'' '^^ members appointed o < S ■D O i m 3] X O c 0) in tn m H 3) > r > -< o UJ > IT o q: UJ I- BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 27 by the governor of the State and the mayor of the city. This commission made an exhaustive inquiry into the whole question examining systems in Eu- ropean as well as in American cities, and made preliminary reports in February, 1892, upon the advantage of a combination of the elevated and tunnel systems. V. SOME NOTEWORTHY BUILDINGS. PUBLIC AND OTHER STRUCTURES, MODERN AND HIS- TORIC, AND INSTITUTIONS WITHIN THE BUSINESS QUARTERS. AN unusual number of buildings within the busi- ness quarters of the Boston of To-day are notable, many for their architectural design and decoration, and others for their historic associa- tions. Here are nearly all of the public buildings, national, State, and city ; the great exchanges ; several of the older literary institutions ; theatres ; hotels ; newspaper buildings ; Faneuil Hall, the Old State-House, the Old South Meeting-house, King's Chapel, and other cherished landmarks. Of the older public buildings the Custom-House, at the foot of State street, built entirely — walls, columns, roof, and dome — of granite, in the pure Doric style, is to-day the most interesting. De- signed to " stand for generations " it was con- structed with great deliberation, twelve years being consumed in the work. To making a secure foun- dation three of the dozen years were devoted. It is in the form of the Greek cross ; and the features of its exterior are the massive fluted columns surrounding it, 32 in all, each shaft being in one ])iece, five feet four inches in diameter, and weigh- ing about 42 tons. The porticos, on high flights of steps, have each six columns. The granite dome at the intersection of the cross terminates with a skylight 25 feet in diameter, and granite tile covers the roof. Drake informs us that the building con- tains " about the same number of cubic feet of stone as Bunker-Hill Monument." The feature of the interior is the cross-shaped rotunda, finished in the ("rrecian Corinthian order. Ammi B. Young was the architect of the building. Its construction was authorized by the Twenty-third Congress, in 1835, when Jackson was President, and it was completed during Polk's administration — opened August i, 1847. Now some distance from the water front, when it was built the bowsprits of vessels lying at Long wharf and stretching across the street, almost touched its eastern front. The new Chamber of Commerce building (com- pleted in 1892), at the junction of India street and Central wharf, is of peculiar design. Like its neighbor, the Custom-House, it is constructed of granite, but there the likeness ends. In order to conform to the limitations of its site the building is irregular in plan. The corner at the junction of India street and Central wharf is rounded into a large circle of 40 feet radius, and is carried up as a large tower capped by a lofty conical roof sur- rounded by high dormer-windows. The other corner, on India street, is similarly rounded into a smaller tower. The building is seven stories high ; the height of the cornice above the sidewalk is 95 feet, and from the sidewalk to the top of the coni- cal roof is 170 feet. On the first floor each of the three principal rooms is accessible from the street and from the corridors. The circular room, 80 feet in diameter, with its domed ceiling, the apex of which is 38 feet above the floor, is the board room proper. Over the entrance is the gallery for visitors. Opening from the board room is the large reading-room, 1,500 square feet in area; one side of the room almost entirely of glass. Connected with this by sliding doors are the two parlors and other rooms. The fourth, fifth, and sixth floors are used for offices. The building is fire-proof, the only woodwork being the doors and the wooden finish of the floors. It is well provided with stair- ways and elevators and is lighted by electricity. Shepley, Rutan, & Coolidge were the architects. It was dedicated in a cheerful fashion, with a recep- tion, banquet, and speeches, on the 20th and 21st of January, 1892. Formed by the union of the Commercial and the Produce Exchanges in Sep- tember, 1885, the Chamber of Commerce is one of the youngest of the business institutions of the city. It comes of good Boston stock, a lineal descendant of the first Chamber of Commerce, born about 1803. That was succeeded by the first Corn Exchange, founded in 1839 ; that in turn by the second Corn Exchange, founded in 1S55 ; and that by the Com- mercial Exchange, founded in 1870, now absorbed in the new organization. Its main objects are to promote just and equitable principles of trade ; establish and maintain uniformity in commercial usage ; correct abuses that may exist ; acquire, pre- serve, and disseminate valuable business infor- mation ; adjust controversies and misunderstand- ings among its members ; and generally to advance the interest of trade and commerce in the city. 28 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. ■';•../•/. lit II CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. The Quincy Market-house (or Faneuil Hall, its official title), another near neighbor of the Custom House, but in the opposite direction, is of the same style of architecture and similar in design. Built also of Quincy granite, its strong points are its portico at either end, of four granite columns, each shaft in one piece, and its well-proportioned dome. It covers 27,000 feet of land, is 535 feet long, and two stories high. It was built in 1825-6, at a cost. exclusive of the land, of $150,000. As the central features of the great improvements planned and successfully carried through by the energetic and far-sighted first Mayor Quincy,' in the face of stout opposition from conservative Bostonians who regarded the " Quincy schemes " as visionary, it stands a substantial monument of his administra- tion. Alexander Parris was the architect of the ' See introductory chapter, page 2. BOSTON OF TO-DAV. 29 building. A few years before, in conjunction with gotten that the first one, built on town land in 1742 Solomon Willard, he had designed the St. Paul's at the expense of Peter Faneuil, then one of the Church on Tremont street. wealthiest merchants of the town, was intended pri- IRON BUILDING — G. T. MCLAUTHLIN & CO. Famous Faneuil Hall, the " Old Cradle of marily for a market-house ; and that its establish- Liberty," opposite the Quincy Market-house, and ment was the outcome of a .spirited local war over facing the square, is still the people's forum. The the town market-houses. A few years before Faneuil present building dates from 1763. It is not for- made his proposition to build the market-house and 30 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. FANEUIL HALL. to give it to the town on condition that the people should legally authorize it and maintain it under proper regulations, the Dock-square Market-house which had stood on its site had been demolished by a mob " disguised as clergymen." The question over which the people quarrelled was whether they should be served at fixed localities or at their homes, as before the establishment of the town markets ; and such was the divisions of public opinion that Faneuil's offer was accepted by a majority of only seven out of the whole number voting. The first house was a small affair, two stories high, the hall in the second story, loo feet by 40 ; and it was designed by John Simibert, the BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 31 painter. Faneuil died on the 3d of March, 1743, nals being in the Museum of Fine Arts. The and it so happened that the first public gathering great painting by Healy, which hangs back of the in the new hall was on the occasion of the delivery platform, occupying almost the entire area of the of a eulogy of him, pronounced by Master Lovell, rear wall, represents Webster addressing the Senate of the Latin School. On the 13th of January, on the occasion of his celebrated reply to Hayne, 1 761, this first building was burned, the walls only of South Carolina. The room is the old Senate remaining, and the town immediately voted to re- Chamber now occupied by the United States build. P\mds for the purpose were in part raised Sujireme Court, and the figures in the painting bv a lottery, — lotteries then being authorized bv are most of them portraits of senators and dis- law, — as money for paving streets had been raised a few years before. The new Faneuil Hall was completed in March, 1763, and on the 14th was formally dedicated to " the cause of liberty," James Otis delivering the dedicatory address. It tinguished citizens of that day. The upper hall of the building, used as the armory of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery, contains a number of objects of historic interest collected by this ancient or- ganization, — the oldest military company in the was in this hall that the great town-meetings were country. The market yet flourishes, occupying the held in the exciting times preceding the Revolu- street floor and the basement, tion, and from its platform the patriot orators of The Post-ofifice and Sub-Treasury, the great the day stirred and nerved the people with their fiery eloquence. On the reception of the news of the repeal of the Stamp Act it was gayly illumi- nated, by vote of the town. During the Siege it was transformed into a playhouse' for the en- tertainment of the "Brit- ishers" and the loyalists shut up in the town. It was not until 1805 that the building was enlarged to its present proportions. Then it was extended in width eighty feet and in- creased in height ; the third story was added, the galleries put in, and the interior remodelled ; all according to plans drawn by the architect, Bulfinch. The grasshop- per vane on the tip of the cupola, an imitation of the pinnacle on the Royal Kxchange, in Lon- don, was cut out by Dea- con Shem Drown, and adorned the first build- ing. Most of the paint- ings which now hang on the walls of the public hall are copies, the origi- » See chapter on Theatres. PROPOSED NEW BUILDING OF THE INTERNATIONAL TRUST COMPANY. 32 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. granite pile, a composition of pilasters and columns and round-arched ornamented windows, facing Post-office square, covers an area of nearly 45,000 feet of land. The fagades rise 100 or more feet above the sidewalks, and the central portion of each reaches a height of 126 feet. The sculptured figures high up on the Post-office square front adorn the building. They are seventeen feet high, of Vermont marble, and the work of Daniel C. French, of Concord. The group on the left represents Labor supporting Domestic Life and sustaining the Fine Arts, and that on the right Science controlling the forces of Electricity and Steam. In the first Labor is portrayed by a stalwart figure leaning against an anvil, its horn supporting his right arm, with the mother and child at his side, and at his left the Fine Arts, a graceful female figure, supporting a vase on her knee, sculptured masks and capitals lying at her feet. In the other group Science, a woman, is seated, directing with her right hand Electricity, a youth with winged feet, resting with her left hand on the shoulder of Steam, who is chained to a locomotive wheel. Her foot rests up- on a closed volume, — her undiscovered secrets, — and her left arm supports a horseshoe magnet with a thunderbolt as an armature. The Post-office De- partment occupies the basement, ground floor, and a portion of the second story of the building ; on the second floor are the .Sub-Treasury with its ornate " Marble Cash Room," the Naval Pay Office, and the Internal Revenue offices ; the third floor is entirely occupied by the United States courts and connecting offices ; the fourth contains the offices of the Light-house Board, Light-house Inspector, special agents of the Treasury, jury, and model rooms ; and the fifth is devoted to the Signal Ser- vice Department. The total cost of the structure, land and all appurtenances, was $5,894,295. It was projected in 1867, but building did not begin until 1869; and it was not until August, 1885, that the work was done. Previous to its establishment here the Post-office had been a wanderer about the town. During a large part of the time before the Revolu- tion it was in buildings on \Vashington street, then called Cornhill, between Water street and the present Cornhill. During the Siege it was estab- lished in Cambridge, .^fter the Evacuation it re- turned to the east side of Washington street, near State. Afterwards it was removed to State street, on the site of the first meeting-house of the colon- ists, about where Brazer's building now is ; then for a while it was in the old State House ; then in the old Merchants' Exchange building (the site of which is now covered by the great State-street Ex- change), where the fire of 1872 overtook it; then for a brief period in Faneuil Hall ; and then for a longer time in the Old South Meeting-house, from which it moved into its present permanent quarters. Surrounding the Post-office and in its immediate neighborhood are a number of handsome modern buildings. The group on the south side of the square, along the line of Milk street, composed of the towering granite structure of the FZquitable Life Assurance Society, the white marble building of the Mutual Insurance Company of New York, with its graceful tower, and the granite building of the New England Mutual Life, are especially interesting. A short distance down Milk street, at the corner of Oliver, the great stone building of the American Telephone Company, completed in 1891, and the Mason building occupying the middle of Liberty square, are well designed and adorn the neighbor- hood. Ambitious buildings erected on State street in re- cent years have greatly changed the appearance of this historic old thoroughfare. It is no longer pic- turesquely old-fashioned. With the colossal State- street Exchange, the massive Fiske building, the Farlow building, and other new structures of more or less elaborate design, the old street has become in large part modernized, and before very long will be entirely transformed. The Exchange, extend- ing from Congress to Kilby streets, while not so attractive architecturally as some of its neighbors, fulfils the requirements of modern business in a way which cannot be excelled by any similar struct- ure in the country. In its eleven hundred and odd rooms are gathered representatives of nearly all the business professions. Lawyers and brokers flourish in richest profusion. But its distinguished charac- teristic lies in the fact that it contains the commo- dious quarters of the Stock Exchange. The great chamber, immediately opposite the main entrance on the first floor, is 115 feet long by 50 wide, and 35 feet high. The interior decorations are in white and light yellow, and the Corinthian pillars around the side lend dignity to the room. The frescoing is rich. Over the door is the large vis- itors' gallery. In the middle of the chamber on the right is the " pulpit," where the chairman sits during the sessions. Near by is the telegraph room ; on the same side, at the farther end of the chamber, is the Boston Stock Board, and opposite that the New York board, with a nest of telephone boxes beneath it. Opposite the " pulpit " is the entrance to the bond-room, with its massive black Tennessee marble fireplace. The Exchange build- ing, built of stone, is in the Italian Renaissance. m m 33 \3'. -^ -^ *.ii » h i 'n L_ JOHN HANCOCK BUILDING. 34 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. Begun in June, 1889, it was completed on April 20, 1 89 1, when the quarters of the Stock Exchange were occupied. Its cost above the ground was ^1,800,000, and including the land, ^3,376,500. Peabody & Stearns were the architects of the build- ing. At the head of State street still stands the quaint old State House, — the Town House before the Revolution, — restored through the well-directed efforts of good citizens to something quite like its appearance during the most exciting periods of its history. In 1882, at the time when it was rescued from the vandals, who in this case were the city authorities, it was in a deplorable condition. For years it had been a homely place of law and gen- eral business offices. The interior and exterior had been built over and built upon, and changed and cut up, in a most ruthless manner, that the city, to whom it belonged, might receive the fullest income in rentals from it. An ugly mansard roof had been built out from the fine old tmibers, some of which were hacked almost apart to accomplish this work. The neglected, dingy face of the building was plas- tered with business signs. The work of restoration was done as thoroughly as possible, and with the utmost care as to details. Above the second story the exterior of the building is a quite faithful copy of the old. The windows of the upper story are modelled upon the small-paned windows of colonial days. The balcony of this story was restored upon the model of the still existing attic balcony, and is reached through the original window of twisted crown glass. In place of the mansard roof was rebuilt the old pitch-roof resting upon the original timbers. On the eastern gables copies of the lion and unicorn were placed ; and subsequently, to appease over-sensitive citizens who foolishlv ob- jected to this part of the restoration, a bright gilt eagle was set up on the western front with the State and city arms. The building is painted a yellowish olive, with darker trimmings, following the colors in the oldest oil painting of the bearing the date of 1800. above the first story, shows architecture of the old time. here have the same floor and ceilings, and on three sides the same walls that they had in 1748. The finish here consists of dado, frieze, and ornamental mantels and doorcases. In the eastern room, look- ing down State street, an apartment not more than thirty-two feet square, the royal governor and council used to sit in the days before the Revolution ; and in the western room, on the Washington-street end, sat the General Court. The whole of the second floor, structure m existence. The interior, again the arrangement and The two main halls the attics and cupola, are leased by the city to the Bostonian Society, the organization which secured the restoration, incorporated in 1881 " to promote the study of the history of the city of Boston and the preservation of its antiquities." It maintains in the rooms a free public exhibition of a most interesting collection of antiquities. No building now standing in the city has a more interesting history than this Old State House. Built in 1748 upon the site of the former Town House which had been burned, the walls of the latter util- ized in the new structure, it became the quarters of the courts and the legislature of the colony, of the royal governors and the provincial council ; after the Revolution, the meeting-place of the General Court of the Commonwealth ; after the town became a city, the City Hall ; and for a while the post-office. In front of its doors, during the Stamp Act excite- ment, the people burned the stamped clearances. Within the building, in 1768, the British troops were quartered, taking possession of all parts of it except the council chamber, " to the great annoy- ance of the courts while they sat, and of the mer- chants and gentlemen of the town who had always used its lower floor as their exchange. " Near its eastern porch occurred the Boston Massacre of March 5, 1770. ^Vithin the council chamber Sam Adams, as chairman of the committee of the great town meetings held the next day, which voted that the town " should be evacuated by the soldiers at all hazards," demanded of Lieut. -Governor Hutch- inson and the council the immediate removal of the troops " with such dignity and firmness " that the request was promptly complied with.' Here Gen- eral Gage held a council of war with Generals Howe and Clinton just before the affair at Bunker Hill. As the royal proclamations had been read from the balcony at the east end, so the Declaration of In- dependence was read when " undissembled festivity cheered and lightened every face. " And that night in the square before the house " every King's Arms in Boston and every sign with any resem- blance of it, whether Lion and Crown, Pestle and Mortar and Crown, Heart and Crown, &c., together with every sign that belonged to a Tory, was taken 1 It is this act which Miss Anne Whitney Ilis depicted in her statue of Adams, appropii.itely set on a hifjh fjranite pedestal in old Dock (now Adams) square, within sij^ht of Faneuil Hall. The patriot is portrayed in the attitude of waiting for Governor Hutcliinson's an- swer to his demand for the instant removal of tlic troops from Boston town. Clad in the picturesque citizen's dress of his period, he stands erect, "with folded arms and a determined look in his linelv chiselled face. " This statue, of bronze, was erected in 1S70 from the fund be- queathed to Boston by Jonathan Phillips in 1S60 {$20,000. the income to be e-xpended "to adorn and embellish the streets and public places" in the city), and it is a counterpart of that by the same sculptor in the Capitol .at Washington. t 1 IE If I nun »mmrm]5r '^S^f BUILDING OF THE AMERICAN BELL TELEPHONE OOIVIPANY. ^(^ BOSTON OF 'I'O-DAV. f£ Ef M '• STATE-STREET EXCHANGE. down and made a general conflagration of." In one of its rooms the constitution of tlie State was planned ; here the convention that ratified the new United States Constitution sat before adjourning to the Federal-street meeting-house ; ' and here Wash- ington on the occasion of his last visit to Boston, in 1789, standing on the platform of the colonnade at * The convention first met in the old Bnittle-square meeting-house, which stood until 1S71, when it was sold and torn down to make way for a business block. the west end of the building projecting " boldly into the main street so as to exhibit in a strong light the man of the people," reviewed the great procession in his honor. In later times, when it was the City Hall, it was made the refuge of William Lloyd Garrison from the mob of October, 1835, which had broken up an anti-slavery meeting. Here Mayor Lyman rescued him, and, as night was foiling, by a ruse got him out from the northern door and safely con- veyed to the old Leverett-street jail for protection. FISKE BUILDING. 38 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. Other notable buildings, new business structures in this neighborhood which command attention either by their style or size, are the towering Ames building, on the corner of Washington and Court streets, sixteen stories high and the loftiest in town (Shepley, Rutan, & Coolidge, architects) ; the sub- stantial Sears building, on the opposite corner of the same streets, in part rebuilt and considerably en- larged in 1890-91 after a fire which burned out a portion of the interior (Cummings & Sears, archi- tects) ; and the Hemenway building, on the corner of Tremont street and Pemberton square. Of these the new Ames building attracts most attention by reason of its height and ornateness of design. It covers an exceedingly small area when it is consid- ered that its granite walls rise a distance of 190 feet. In less than twenty months from the date of the building permit, the iith of December, 1889, the work was completed. The cost was between ?6oo,ooo and §700,000. Here are established sev- eral banking institutions and many professional and business men. The City Hall, on School street, its highly orna- mented front and the west walls of white Concord granite, and those on the City Hall avenue and Court square sides of stone from the old City Hall that stood on the same spot, was designed by C. J. F. Bryant and Arthur Oilman. Its style is the Italian Renaissance as elaborated by modern French architects. The heavy dome which crowns the structure is itself surrounded by a balcony with lions' heads at its corners and a gilded eagle at the front. Planned on a liberal scale, it was supposed that the building would be fully equal to the needs of the city for many years ; but it early proved inad- equate, and many departments of the government are now crowded into other quarters in nearby buildings. If the erection of an entirely new City Hall on Beacon street between Somerset and Bow- doin streets (the project proposed by Mayor Mat- thews in 1892) is not authorized, it is possible that upon the completion of the new Court House an annex to the present building will be constructed from the present Court House, or upon its site, across Court square. The City Hall yard, through which the building is approached, is made attrac- tive by well-kept lawns and masses of flowers or plants displayed in the large urns. Of the bronze statues on either side of the walk, that of Frank- lin, l)y Richard S. Greenough, was first set up in 1856 in front of the old City Hall, and moved to its present position in 1865 ; and that of the first Mayor Quincy, by Thomas Ball, was placed on the 17th of September, 1879. Both have re- ceived their fair share of criticism ; but the sober judgment of the quieter critics was evidently ex- pressed by those who pronounced the one a most interesting statue, and the other a strong figure un- gracefully draped. The Franklin stands eight feet high on its granite pedestal capped with a block of verd-antique. The four bas-reliefs represent in- teresting periods in the philosopher's career. The cost of the statue was met by popular subscription, and on the occasion of its dedication Robert C. Winthrop was the orator. The Quincy statue was paid for from the income of the Jonathan Phillips fund.' The present City Hall was dedicated on the i8th of September, 1865. That which preceded it, the then " Old Court House " remodelled, had been used since 1840, and before that the Old State House was the City Hall. The first city government was organized in Faneuil Hall (the ist of May, 1822). Nearly opposite the foot of School street, oc- 1 cupying the corner of Washington and Milk,stands the Old South Meeting-house, another historic land- mark, for the preservation of which we are indebted to a few patriotic citizens. Jealously protected, it holds its jilace in one of the busiest parts of the city. The external appearance has not changed in a hundred and fifty years. Standing in Governor John Winthrop's lot, it is an historic building oc- cupying historic ground. Until its destruction by the British during the Siege, the old homestead of the first governor stood next the church towards Spring lane. The land for the meeting-house was given by Madam Mary Norton, to whom the Win- throp estate ultimately passed in trust, " forever for the erecting of a house for their assembling them- selves together publiquely to worship God." In the little cedar meeting-house, the first built on the spot (in 1669), Benjamin Franklin was baptized in 1703, when his father's home was across the way on Milk street, the site of which was for many years marked by the "Post" building at No. 15. And in 1696 Judge Sewall stood up in his pew here while his confession of contrition for his share in the witch- craft delusion was read. The present house was '• built in 1730 and dedicated in April that year. It was within this building that those great town-meet- ings for which Faneuil Hall was too small were held, when momentous questions were considered and decisive action taken. It was here that the overflowing meeting the day after the " Boston Massacre " waited while Sam Adams and the others of its committee went back and forth to the Town I See foot-note to paragraph on the Old State House in this chapter. JOHN C. PAIGE INSURANCE BUILDING. 40 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. House until Hutchinson yielded and gave the order for the withdrawal of the troops. Here on the 27th of November, 1773, was held the great meeting which resolved that the " Odious Tea " should not be landed; and on the i6th of December the last of the series, and the greatest of all, which was followed by the destruction of the tea by the " Sons of Liberty " disguised as " Mohawks." This was the meeting of seven thousand determined townsmen who sat until long after candle-light waiting for the re- turn of the messengers sent to Hutchinson, who had stolen off to his country place at Milton ; and when they finally appeared with the word that he had refused his pass for the tea ships to proceed to sea, " solemnly arose the voice of Samuel Adams, ' this meeting can do nothing more to save the country.' Then rang from the gallery the signal war-whoop. It was reechoed from the street below. The meet- ing adjourned to Griffin's (now Liverpool) wharf, and the work was done." Here Warren delivered the annual oration commemorative of the " Massa- cre " in March, 1775, three months before he was killed at Bunker Hill, when the doorways, aisles, and pulpit steps and platform were occupied by British officers and soldiers ; making his entrance into the church through the window back of the pulpit to avoid an affi-ay by forcing his way through the crowded doorway and aisles. During the Siege the meeting-house was transformed into a riding-school for Burgoyne's regiment of the " Queen's Light Dragoons." " Dirt and gravel was spread on the floor," says Frothingham ; " a bar was fixed over which the cavalry leaped their horses at full speed ; the east galleries were allotted to spectators ; the first gallery was fitted up as a re- freshment-room. A stove was ]Kit up in the winter, and here were burnt for kindling many of the books and manuscripts of Prince's fine library." After the Revolution the interior was restored to its former condition. No regular religious services have been held in the meeting-house since 1872, when the Old South Society moved to the Back Bay. After the Great Fire of 1872, which happily spared it, it was used as the post-office, as has already been stated, until the completion of the first section of the present government building. The loan exhibition of Revolutionary and other relics which was afterwards established within the meeting-house has been enriched by gifts from time to time, until now it has become one of the most interesting collections in town. The fees received for admission go into the preservation fund. The Old South lectures to young people given each season in the meeting-house help to keep fresh in the minds of the youth of the day the details of the history of their country. For the preservation of King's Chapel, which marks the corner of School and Tremont streets, no movement of citizens has yet been necessary. It has been steadfastly protected and sustained by those who possess it. No finer example of the architecture of its day remains with us. Built of dark granite, — the stone brought from Braintree, w^here it was taken from the surface of the ground, as there were then no ciuarries, — with its small quaint windows, its heavy square tower surrounded by wooden Ionic columns, and its low roof, it stands in a neighborhood of most modern buildings a digni- fied and picturesque relic of the past. Most inter- esting, however, is the interior. Its rows of columns supporting the ceiling, the richly painted windows of the chancel, the antique pulpit and reading-desk, the square high-backed pews, the mural tablets, and the sculptured marble monu- ments lining the outer walls, — all combine to im- press the visitor with its faithful likeness to old London city churches. The corner-stone was laid in 1749, but the structure was slow in building, and it was not until the late summer of 1754 that the first services were held within its walls. Then it was without the portico, which was not completed until 1789; and the steeple, which was embraced in the design of the architect, Peter Harrison, was never built. During the Siege the British officers attended the regular services of the chapel, and among the royalists who fled with Howe's army when the town was evacuated was its rector, taking with him the church registers and vestments. Then for about five years, while its own meeting-house was undergoing repairs, the Old South Society occupied the chapel, and it was not until 1782 that the remnant of the old parish again took possession of it. It was in that year reopened for regular services, with James Freeman as "reader; " and the interesting fact is frequently re- called that under his teachings the first Episcopal church established in Boston became the first Unitarian. The change was formally made in 1787, when Dr. Freeman was ordained rector, and the connection with the American Protestant Kijiscopal Church terminated. The first King's Chapel, which the present succeeded, was that one built in 1688, during the administration of the arbitrary Andros, whom the colonists finally overthrew, for the first Episcopal parish whose services had previ- ously been held in the Old South, the use of which a portion of each Sunday for this purpose Andros peremptorily demanded. The site for the chapel ip5Wi|P"i«l«i5WW! 6o BOSTON OF TO-DAY. Subsidiary School of Practical Design; and the Society of Arts, whose meetings are held semi- monthly and whose Proceedings are annually pub- lished. Courses of a less technical nature than the regular ones (each covering four years), as a preparation for business callings, and a course preparatory to the professional study of medicine, are also given. The School of Industrial Science has become the prominent feature of the work. The development and growth of the institution since its foundation, a little more than a quarter of a century ago, have been extraordinary. The school opened in February, 1867, with 27 pupils; the number registering in 1891 was 937. At the beginning the professors, instructors, and pupils were comfortably quartered in a few rooms. To- day the Institute has four large buildings, and is yet crowded. The professors and other offi- cers of instruction at the start could have been counted on the fingers of one's hands ; now there are more than a hundred. Professor Rogers ' lived to enjoy the full fruition of his noble work, and he died literally in harness within his beloved in- stitution, and on the very day and hour of the graduation of one of the largest classes it had sent out, — a day in June, before a distinguished au- dience, just as he was beginning the delivery of his annual address. The Institute is fittingly called his monument. Succeeding him as president, Gen- eral Francis A. Walker has brought the institution by rapid strides to its present unrivalled position. A most effective group of buildings is that sur- rounding Copley square, with Trinity at the left as the square is entered from Boylston street ; then the Museum of Fine Arts ; the new Public Library, along the Dartmouth-street end ; the Old South Church beyond ; and the picturesque line at the left, on Boylston street, from the ivy-clad Chauncy Hall, near the Dartmouth-street corner, and the Second Church and chapel adjoining. The placing of Dallin's equestrian statue of Paul Revere in the middle of the square one day yet to be named, is expected to give the finishing touch to this en- closure. The Art Museum building now forms an irregu- lar square or quadrangle surrounding an interior court to be laid out as a garden. Ultimately it will cover twice the present area, by successive exten- sions towards the south. The oldest part is that which faces the square; this was completed and opened to the public in 1876. Three years later ' Professor Rogers retired from the office of President in 1S70, when he was succeeded by Professor Jolin D. Runkle; but in 1S7S he was reappointed to the position. He died in June, 1SS2. the eastern section was completed. The newest part, and the most important, doubling the capacity of the Museum, was finished early in 1890, and opened, after a complete rearrangement of the treasures of the institution, on the i8th of March. Built in the Italian-Gothic style, of red brick, dec- orated with elaborate red and buff terra-cotta de- signs, the exterior of the building is rich and unique. The mouldings, copings, and all the ornamental work were imported from England. The two large reliefs on the Copley-square facade represent, that at the extreme right of the entrance " The Genius of Art," and that at the left "Art and Industry" united. Among the figures in the " Genius of Art," representing the nations paying tribute to Art, America is personified by a female figure holding in her hand Powers' " Greek Slave." Art and In- dustry are personified by figures in relief. The heads in the roundels are of artists of distinction and of patrons of art, the representative Americans being Copley, Crawford, and AUston. The project- ing portico, enriched with polished marble columns, at the main entrance to the building, adds to the effectiveness of the fiigade. The newest part con- sists of the two parallel wings extending southward from the Copley-square front and connected by a corridor 24 feet wide and 210 feet long at their southern extremities. This part covers about 12,000 square feet, and cost about §220,000. The plans were prepared by the late John H. Sturgis, and developed by his successors, Sturgis & Cabot. Al- though but about twenty-one years old (organized in 1870), the Museum now ranks among the most im- portant in the world. It contains the best Japanese art exhibit, and is the third in rank in casts of classic sculpture. The first floor of the Museum is entirely devoted to the department of antiquities and casts, under the direction of Edward Robinson, which occupies six- teen rooms and galleries. At the right of the Copley-square entrance are, first, the Assyrian and Egyptian rooms. A large portion of the exhibits in the latter are antiquities of great value, dating as for back as 4,000 years B.C. The nucleus for this department was the C. Granville Way collection, given to the Museum in 1872 ; later it was strongly enforced by the acquisition of sculpture collected by the late John Lowell, and more recently still further enriched by the colossal fragments given by the Egyptian Exploration Fund. The " Archaic Greek Room " adjoining is devoted exclusively to casts of Assyrian and Egyptian antiquities ; next are the two " pre-Phidian " rooms, containing examples of early Greek art : then another room, filled with antique BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 6i busts and portrait statues ; and beyond this the large hall, nearly square, called the " Parthenon Room," in which are displayed reproductions of the bas-reliefs from the frieze and fragments of the sculptures of the pediments of the Parthenon. Passing into the south wing we come to the mag- nificent gallery in which are displayed the many examples of the best Greek sculpture of the post- Phidian period ; and from this, in the east wing, opens the other large and lofty hall, containing the splendid collection of Greek architectural frag- ments. Then in order are the small rooms, con- taining numerous casts of Gothic and Moorish work, mostly architectural details ; the three rooms devoted to original Greek and Roman antiquities ; that con- taining casts of works of the Italian Renaissance ; and the two rooms designed for the display of French, German, P^nglish, and other modern sculptures. On the second floor are the picture-galleries and the display of Japanese art. Starting at the left of the hall, instead of at the right as on the floor below, the five galleries of oil paintings extend in a suite to and along the eastern section of the quadrangle. The collection in the First Gallery is a rich array of paintings of the various schools, Turner's " Slave Ship," lent by Mr. Sturgis Lothrop, and Paul Vero- nese's " Marriage of St. Catherine," lent by Mr. Quincy Shaw, occupying the midde on either side. The Second Gallery, formerly the " AUston Room," is now devoted to representative works of the early American painters. Those of Copley, Allston, and Stuart are most effectively grouped on three of the walls, and the rest of the space is filled by paint- ings by Trumbull, Page, Newton, Smibert, Peale, Healy, Alexander, and Ames. The collection in the Third Gallery, now known as the " Dutch Room," for some years especially noteworthy, has been per- manently strengthened by the addition of the ten pictures from the San Donato collection, which be- came the property of the Museum in 1889; the Fourth Gallery is the " French Room, " and the Fifth is largely devoted to works of modern Ameri- can painters, with a sprinkling of French pictures crowded out of the French Room. Here are repre- sented AMlliam M. Hunt, his "Niagara" and the " Girl at the Fountain " conspicuous in the collec- tion ; George Fuller, Elihu Vedder, Abbott Thayer, ^Villiam Laferge, Foxcroft Cole, Thomas Robinson, John B. Johnson, George Inness, S. S. Tuckerman, F. P. Vinton, Charles Sprague Pearce, Frank Hill Smith, J. J. Enneking, Louis Ritter, I. M. Gaugen- gigl, Mrs. Sarah Whitman, and others. In the water-color gallery, adjoining, the interesting work shown is mostly by local artists. Connecting with this room are the cabinets devoted to engravings. Passing from the Fifth Ciallery into the long cor- ridor of the south section of the building, the Fenellosa collection of several hundred scroll paint- ings from Japan (the gift of Dr. Charles G. Weld) is seen hung on the walls ; and in cases near the windows is Professor E. S. Morse's famous and un- equalled collection of Japanese pottery, containing nearly 4,000 pieces, good examples of every province where pottery is or has been made, of every maker's " mark, " and of the early and late styles of each maker. This has now become the property of the Museum through purchase. Turning into the Dart- mouth-street section the great room is reached in which is displayed Dr. W. Sturgis Bigelow's magnifi- cent Oriental art collection, composed of Japanese lacquers, curios, bronzes, swords, and sword-guards, wood carvings of various sizes, silk dresses and silks, and other interesting objects. The curious collec- tion of coins and electrotype reproduction of coins is displayed in the room adjoining ; and in the next the metal-work, an imposing array of brass, copper, iron, gold, silver, and bronze objects. In the large West Room, where now only pottery and porcelain are displayed, are rare examples of the fictile art from early times to the present ; and most interesting is the collection of tapestries and embroideries in the "Gallery of Textiles," the work in the Lawrence Room, and in the Wood Carving Room. The quarters of the School of Drawing and Paint- mg are on the third floor in the Dartmouth-street wing, and in the basement are the library and read- ing-room adjoining for the use of students, and the offices of the curator, Charles G. Loring, and his assistants. The Museum is open to the public every day, on Sundays free. The corporation is administered by a board of trustees, upon which are represented the Boston Athenaeum, the Institute of Technology, and Harvard University ; also ex offlciis the mayor of the city, the superintendent of the public schools, a trustee of the Lowell Institute, the chairman of the trustees of the Public Library, and the secretary of the State Board of Education. In the great Public Library building the city pos- sesses the monumental edifice which it was the desire and aim of those charged with the work of construction to produce. It is at once a thoroughly finished building, fashioned after the best models, and an architectural ornament upon the possession of which the people, whose property it is, may well felicitate themselves. A great structure, in the style of the Italian Renaissance, quadrangular in shape, facing three streets, and surrounding a court. 62 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. covering with its broad platform, and exclusive of the court, an acre and a half of ground, — it is de- signed with such skill and taste that the effect of the whole is one of dignity and stateliness. The chief architectural merit of the work consists in its elegant proportions and the purity of its style. The mate- rial used in its walls is granite quarried in Milford, Mass., having a slight pink tinge which gives it a peculiar warmth lacking in most granites; and the roof is of brown Spanish tiles. The masonry is laitl with rustic joints, and the ornamentation of the exterior, as is always the case in this style of archi- tecture, is very reserved in the lower part of the building, becoming more elaborate as it approaches the roof. The string course, for instance, is much enriched by a single band of carving, while the cornice is an elaborately designed feature. The windows below the string course are square -topped, of large size, affording ample light for the working- rooms of the library. Above the string course great arched windows run around the three sides of the building, giving the effect of a magnificent arcade supporting the heavy projecting cornice. The same scheme is carried out in brick lines around the court. The main entrance in the middle of the Copley-square front, topped with a round arch over which is the great medallion of the seal of the library, by .Augustus St. Gaudens, is ap- proached by the broad easy steps from the sidewalk, and is eventually to be set off with magnificent sculptures. About the doorways is some beautiful carving, the work of John P^vans, a Boston carver ; and the vestibule of solid blocks of pink Knoxville marble, paved with the same material inlaid with rich Levanto marble, harmonizes well with the stone at the entrance. From the vestibule an unob- structed view of the entrance hall and the grand staircase is had. The great feature of this hall is its high, vaulted ceiling of rich mosaic work of colored marble most artistically blended. Into this the names of men identified with Boston who have been eminent in letters, art, science, law, and public work are wrought. The first group on the right embraces those of the great anti-slavery leaders and philanthropists, such as Sumner, Phillips, Gar- rison, and Mann. Ne.\t is a group famous in science, such as Gray, Agassiz, Bowditch, and Rumford. Then a cluster of names famous in art and architecture, — Copley, Stuart, Aliston, and Bulfinch ; on the left, as the hall is entered, those of the historians Motley, Prescott, and Bancroft ; then eminent names in law, — Story, Shaw, Webster, and Choate ; next to the grand staircase those of the preachers and moral leaders, — Eliot and Mather, Channing and Parker ; and on each side of the cen- tral arch those of authors, philosophers, mathemati- cians, and statesmen, such as Longfellow, Hawthorne, Adams, Peirce, Emerson, and Franklin. The floor of this great entrance-hall, like that of the vestibule, is in white and Breccia marbles, but further enriched by brass inlay. The first inlay is an inscription giving the dates of the foundation of the library and of the erection of the present building, encircled by a wreath : and at either corner of the square in which it is placed are crossed torches, with the flame bright and vigorous, signifying the purpose for which the library was established and the building erected. The design in the middle of the floor is composed of the library seal, with the signs of the zodiac, each in its own square of marble ; and that at the foot of the grand stairway is a wreath of laurel enclosing the names of the generous bene- factors or promoters of the Library, — Bates, Vattemare, Everett, Quincy, Bigelow, Winthrop, and Jewett. On either side, guarding the stairs, are the great marble lions by Louis St. Gaudens, memorial gifts of the Second and Twentieth Regi- ments, Massachusetts Volunteers ; and over the stairway springs a great arch of Echaillon and Siena marbles. The broad stairs, themselves of Echaillon marble, with the side walls of Siena, constitute a most impressive feature. The great Bates Hall, on the second floor, extending entirely across the Copley-square front, is a magnificent piece of architectural work, with its lofty barrel- vault ceiling, giving fine wall and ceiling surface for decoration. Upon the decorative work of the in- terior of the delivery-room, illustrating the search after the Holy Grail, or the beginning of modern literature, the skill of Edwin A. .-Xbbey has been employed ; John S. Sargent's contribution is a great mural painting, " The Dawn of Christianity," as re- vealed in the Old and New Testament, which will find a place at either end of the great staircase-hall on the special library floor. Some idea of the ex- tent of the new building can be gathered from these figures : the superficial area of the flooring is 4 acres ; the stacks are built to hold 20 miles of shelving, and can be greatly increased as more room is needed. The old library building on Boylston street was built to accommodate 220,000 books, and afforded 6,868 square feet of room for students and ; readers ; the new building is built to contain 2,000,- ' 000 volumes, with 32,900 square feet for students and readers. The total cost of the new building is estimated at $2,218,365; the old building cost, when completed in 1858, six years after the library was formally established, $365,000. At that time 64 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. the library contained about 70,000 volumes ; in 1 89 1 it numbered 557,810 volumes. The new building is fire-proof. The old building has long been overcrowded, and the various special libraries, the Barton, Bowditch, Prince, Ticknor, Parker, and others, were not easily accessible ; in the new build- ing, separate rooms are provided for these collec- tions. The Harvard Medical School building, on Boyl- ston street, next beyond the new Public Library, and occupying the large lot between that and Exeter street, is an imposing pile, with effective exterior and admirably arranged interior. Its brick walls are relieved by the red sandstone mouldings and lintels with the decorative panels of terra-cotta ; and the flat roof covering its four stories is finished by a sky-line of stone balustrades and low gables. The main front has three pavilions, of which the central is slightly recessed. The principal en- trance, by portico and steps, opens into a great waiting-hall, divided into two parts by an arcade of arches supported by polished granite columns. That part towards the rear is the staircase hall, from which iron stairs extend to the top of the building. The principal rooms on the first floor are the faculty-room, the library, lecture-room, and a read- ing or study room, with the luxury of a smoking- room adjoining. In the second story is the great laboratory for general chemistry, and half stories connected with it subdivided for special laboratory service and study ; the physiological laboratory, with connecting rooms and private laboratories for the professor and his assistants ; and the general lecture-room, a great hall with sloping ranges of seats for the students, and an ample experimental table and hoods. In the rear is the large prepara- tion-room, reached by private stairs and passages, for the use of the professors. On the third story at the front is the valuable Museum of Comparative Anatomy, the original collection of which was given by Dr. John Collins Warren ; and in the south-east corner, the anatomical theatre, occupying the height of two full stories. Subordinate lecture and recita- tion rooms occupy the western third of this story. In the upper story are the laboratories of the patho- logical department, and for anatomical study, a smaller theatre for anatomical demonstration, and rooms for special investigations and experiments. Ample provision is made for ventilation and for the escape of chemical fumes from the hoods in the various laboratories. The flat roof is conveniently designed for certain out-door experiments. The structure is practically fire-proof throughout. It cost a quarter of a million dollars, and this was met by a fund raised by friends of the school and of the University. It was completed in 1883. The standard of the Harvard Medical School was raised in 1875, and it is now the highest in the country. The school dates from 1783, and its establishment was the result of the delivery of a course of lectures before the Boston Medical Society by Dr. John Warren, a brother of Gen. Joseph Warren. It was established in Cambridge and was moved to Boston in 18 10, "to secure those ad- vantages for clinical instruction, and for the study of practical anatomy, which are found only in large cities." From 1846 until its removal to the Back Bay it occupied the quaint building on North Grove street, near the Massachusetts General Hospital, now occupied by the Har\-ard Dental School.' The Normal Art School building, Exeter and Newbury streets, of brick with stone trimmings, in the Byzantine Romanesque style of architecture, is the work of H. W. Hartwell and W. C. Richardson, the architects of the " Spiritual Temple " across the way. The principal entrance, from Newbury street through the arched porch, leads directly into a large, well-lighted lobby. In the first story are the museum and the class-rooms, for instruction _ in architectural and mechanical drawing and model- ling in clay ; and in the basement, immediately below the modelling-room, the works here modelled are cast in plaster. In the second story are the rooms of the class in painting in oil and water colors and a lecture-room ; and in the third are those of the preparatory class, another lecture- room, and studios. The Exeter-street entrance opens on a corridor running through the building parallel with Newbury street, traversing in its way the lobby into which the main entrance leads. The school is a State institution, established in 1873, primarily as a training school for teachers of industrial drawing in the public schools of the State, a law of 1870 making free instruction in such draw- ing obligatory in the public schools of towns and cities of over 10,000 inhabitants : but it also ad- mits other students in special branches. George H. Bartlett is now the principal, and the school is under the supervision of a Board of Visitors of the State Board of Education. Its establishment was the outcome of the work of the late A\'alter Smith, the eminent English art instructor, the first prac- tical director of drawing in the Boston public schools. The Prince School building (named for Ex- Mayor Prince), on the opposite corner, north, is the 1 See chapter on North and Old W^est Ends. BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 65 first adaptation in New England of the German and Austrian plan of school building, by which the rooms are placed on one side of a long corridor instead of grouped around a common hall in the middle. By this plan the width of the building is the width only of a school-room and the corridor, and better air, better light, and a more direct connection between corridors, staircases, and entrances are secured than by the more common one. Long and low, it is but two stories high, and with its dark brick walls decorated with ivy, it presents an attractive exterior, which cannot be said of school buildings in general. Its design is a central and two end pavilions, con- taining twelve school-rooms and a large exhibition hall. It was dedicated in November, 1881. An- other attractive school building (completed in 1890) is its neighbor on the south side of Newbury street, that of the Horace Mann School for Deaf- Mutes. Built, the first story of block freestone and the second and gables of the third story of Philadelphia face-brick, the conspicuous feature of the fagade is the high arched entrance-way from the heavy stone landing. The interior is admirably arranged. This school is part of the public-school system, and the work it accomplishes is remarkable. The pupils are taught to communicate by articu- lation rather than by signs. Prof. A. Melville Bell's system of visible speech being employed as an aid in the teaching. Training is also given the pupils in the use of pencil, crayon, Sloyd carving, and other industrial arts, as well as penmanship. The school was founded in 1869, and the name of "Horace Mann" was given to it in 1877. The Sarah Fuller Home (named for the devoted princi- pal of the Horace Mann School) in West Medford gives care and instruction to deaf children too young to enter the regular school. This is sup- ported by private aid. The great exhibition building of the Charitable Mechanic Association, on Huntington avenue and West Newton street, covers a space of upwards of 96,000 square feet, and the front on the avenue is 600 feet. It is admirably planned, and more at- tractive in design than such buildings generally are. On the avenue front the arches of graceful curves and the adjacent walls laid in red brick, with sills and caps of freestone and terra-cotta ornaments, are effective. The head of Franklin on one side of the main arch is intended to typify electricity, and that of Oakes Ames railroading. The arm and the hammer of the seal of the association appear in the spandrels, with palm, oak, and olive branches sur- rounding them. In the octagonal tower at the east- erly end of the building, the two wide entrances are well designed ; and the carriage-porch, constructed of brick and stone, with open-timbered and tiled roof, is a good jiiece of ornamentation. The Adminis- tration building adjoins the tower, the great ex- hibition hall extends therefrom down the avenue, and the main hall, with entrance from the avenue, forms the west end. The latter is popularly called " Mechanics' Hall," and is frequently occupied for public meetings, and occasionally for opera and con- certs. It has sittings for 8,000 people. The Char- itable Mechanic Association, which owns the building, founded in 1795, is one of the honored institu- tions of Boston, and its great industrial fairs, given at irregular intervals, averaging every three years, are the most extensive and important held in the country. Other great exhibitions have been given in its building, the most notable in recent years being the successful " Food and Health Exposition " of the autumn of 1891, modelled after the great London " Healtheries." The first church built on the " new lands " was the Arlington-street (Congregational-Unitarian ; completed December, 1861), the successor of the old Federal-street Church, made famous by the preaching from its pulpit of William Ellery Chan- ning. Built of New Jersey freestone, with finely designed tower and lofty spire steeple jilaced sym- metrically in the middle of the front, it recalls old London churches of the style of the time of Sir Christopher Wren. The interior, divided into a nave and two aisles by a superb range of Corin- thian columns, is modelled upon the Church of Sta Annunziata at Genoa, by Giacomo della Porta. The five arches above the columns on each side of the nave spring with their mouldings directly from the capitals of the columns, and without the inter- vention of a square bit of entablature over each column. By this expedient, adopted from the Genoese church, the supporting effect of the column is here carried up in a series of panelled and ornamented piers to the full Corinthian entablature above, the arches between being formed by sunk and raised mouldings and having their spandrels and soffits decorated. The chime of bells, hung in the tower, was the gift of Jonathan Phillips, long a prominent member of the congregation. There are sixteen in all, eight fitted for round ringing as well as chiming, the others for chiming only. The largest, or tenor bell, weighs 3,150 pounds. Each bears an inscription from the Scriptures. For many years a thick mass of American ivy covered the Boylston-street side of the church, producing a charming effect, especially during the early autumn months, when it took on brilliant 66 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. colors ; but this was entirely removed not long ago, as it was found that it was a means of injury to the stone. The Arlington-street was the pulpit of Dr. Ezra S. Gannett, John F. W. Ware, and Brooke Herford. The second church building here, Emmanuel (Protestant Episcopal; completed in 1862), on Newbury street, is built of the local Roxbury pud- ding-stone. It is one of the smallest churches in the quarter, picturesque in design and most note- worthy for its rich and brilliant interior. The society was organized shortly before this church was built, to furnish a parish for the Rev. Frederick D. Huntington (now Bishop of Central New York), who had been pastor of the South Congregational Church (now Rev. K. E. Hale's) and Plummer Pro- fessor at Harvard College, and had left the Uni- tarian fold for the Protestant Episcopal Church. A large medallion tablet of bronze, designed by St. Gaudens, in honor of the late Dr. Alexander H. Vinton, the second rector of Emmanuel's, is con- spicuously set within the church. It displays a portrait of heroic size, with a biographical inscrip- tion. Leighton Parks, the present rector, succeeded Dr. Vinton. The Central Church (Congregational-Trinitarian ; completed in 1867), on Berkeley and Newbury streets, the third Back Bay church building, is the successor of the Winter-street Church, which so long stood near the present main entrance to Music Hall. It also is of Roxbury stone, with sandstone trimmings. Of elaborate design, in the Gothic style, with turrets and steeple, its distinguishing feature is the finely proportioned spire pointing the tallest in the city. The interior, showing the open pitched roof, is bright and cheerful, although an excess of color is displayed in the decoration. The cost, including the land, was ^325,000. The pastors of the church since its location here have been John De Witt and Joseph T. Duryea. Most famous of those who occupied the pulpit of the old church in Winter street were William M. Rogers and lohn E. Todd. Within the next year the fourth Back Bay church was finished, — the First Church (Congregational- Unitarian; completed December, 1868), on Berke- ley and Marlborough streets. As the successor of the first meeting-house in Boston, the rude structure of wood and earth which served the colonists for nearly eight years, it stands one of the best speci- mens of the finer church architecture of this latter day. Beauty is disclosed in every detail of its ex- terior, and in its rich interior good taste is dis- played. Its style is the English Gothic freely treated ; cruciform, with chapel in the rear. Here again Roxbury rubble is the material em])loyed in the walls, with dressings of Nova Scotia and Con- necticut sandstones. Especially fine features of the exterior are the corner tower and spire, the car- riage-porch over which they are built, and the ves- tibule on Berkeley street. The columns of the main porch on Berkeley street and of the cloister- porch on Marlborough street have polished shafts of Aberdeen granite, and capitals carved in leaves and flowers of native plants. The interior of the church is broad and open. The nave roof, sixty-six feet from the floor to the apex, is open-timbered, and the Berkeley-street end of the nave is a gable with a pointed rose-window filled with tracery. At the west end of the church is the chancel, occupied by the pulpit, carved communion-table, and font. The woodwork is black walnut throughout, with panels and friezes of butternut. The rich colored-glass windows, several of them memorial windows, gifts to the church, were executed in London from the architects' sketches, and the organ was built in Germany by the makers of the great organ con- structed for Music Hall' This is the fifth building of the "First Church of Christ in Boston." The first, that of wood and earth, stood where Brazer's building now stands, on State street, corner of Devon- shire. The second was on Cornhill, now Washing- ton street, nearly opposite the head of State street, where the Rogers building now stands ; this was of wood, built in 1639 ; in 1 7 1 1 it was burned down. The third, on the same spot, was built in 171 2, of brick ; and the fourth, on Chauncy street, was built in 1807. The list of the ministers of the church is remarkable, for all but one were college men. When the Back Bay house was built. Dr. Rufus Ellis had been the pastor for more than thirty years (he was installed in 1835, succeeding Dr. N. L. Frothingham, whose service had also been long). Dr. Ellis died in Liverpool, England, on the 23d of September, 1885. On the 29th of December, the following year, Stopford \Ventworth Brooke, son of the well-known English clergyman, Stopford Brooke, of London, was ordained as Dr. Ellis' successor. The cost of the present church building was $275,000. The Brattle-square Church, now the First Baptist, on Commonwealth avenue and Clarendon street, next completed (in 1873), is most remarkable for its massive Florentine square tower, rising majesti- cally nearly 180 feet, with the band of figure-sculp- ture surrounding it near the summit, between the belfry arches and the cornice. The four groups, 1 See chapter on Some Noteworthy Buildings; paragraph on Music Hall. BUILDING OF THE AMERICAN LEGION OF HONOR. 68 BOSTON OF '10-DAY. one on each side, are designed to represent baptism, communion, marriage, and death, and the statues at each angle typify the angels of the judg- ment blowing golden trumpets. The figures were carved by Italian sculptors, from models by Bar- tholdi, after the rough stones had been set in place. This building also is of Roxbury stone, in the form of the Greek cross ; and its exterior well expresses the idea which the architect had in its design, — mas- siveness and solidity. The interior is in the south- ern Romanesque style, with high walls surmounted by a basilica roof of stained ash. Before it was finished according to the architect's plans, work was suspended, as the society had become heavily in debt, and after a few services the church was closed. Subsequently the society dissolved, and the property was purchased by the First Baptist Society. Thus one historical church organization was succeeded by another; the "Brattle-square" descending from the famous " Manifesto Church," formed in 1699, and the "First Baptist," from the First Baptist Society, formed in 1665. It was the old Brattle-square Meeting-house, the " pride of the town," finished in 1773, but two years before the Siege, and occupied during that time by the British as barracks, which bore the " cannon-ball breastpin " fired into it from a battery in Cambridge on the night of the evacuation. It was long a cherished landmark ; and when in 1872 it was sold and re- moved to make way for a business structure, many good citizens were sorely grieved. Of the eminent pastors of the church were Joseph Buckminster, Edward Everett, John G. Palfrey, and Samuel K. Lothrop, the last of the line. After the First Baptist had acquired the present church, the galleries called for in the architect's plans were put in and its acous- tic properties improved; and in 1882 the new vestry and lecture-room were added, additional land being purchased by the society. The present pastor is Phili]) Moxom. The Old South (Congregational-Trinitarian), Dartmouth and Boylston streets, successor of the Old South Meeting-house, dates from the next year, 1874. It has the distinction of being one of the costliest of the Back Bay churches, and one of the most ornate. The buildings consist of church, chapel, and parsonage, the former occupying two- thirds of the rectangle on which they are placed. The church fronts about ninety feet on Dartmouth street and two hundred on Boylston. Here again the material used is Roxbury stone, with brown Connecti- cut and light Ohio freestone trimmings ; and the form is the Latin cross. The style of architecture is the North Italian Gothic. The most striking features of the exterior are the tower, rising 248 feet, with rich combinations of colored stones and graceful windows, terminating in a pyramidal spire ; the lantern in the roof at the intersection of the arms of the cross, twenty feet square, pierced with large arched windows, and covered by a pointed dome of copper partly gilded ; the richly decorated and deeply recessed main entrance through the front of the tower ; and the arcade, sheltering inscribed tablets, running thence to the south transept. Added to these the belt of gray sandstone along the outside walls, delicately carved to represent vines and fruits among which birds and squirrels are seen, and an effect is produced unusual and unique in our modern church architecture. The vestibule, paved in red, white, and green marbles, is separated from the nave by a high arched screen of Caen stone delicately carved, supported on columns of Lisbon marble and crowned by gables and finials. The interior is finished in cherry and brilliantly frescoed. Panels of Venetian mosaic fill the heads of the arches leading from the doorways. The roof is open-timbered, with tie-beam trusses, further strengthened by arched braces above and below the beam, coming forward to the walls in four broad low-pitched gables, the ridges from which meet in the roof and carry the open lantern referred to above. The elaborate stained-glass windows are decorated to represent biblical scenes ; that back of the pulpit, which is in a broad recess at the Dartmouth-street end of the church, represents the announcement to the shepherds of the birth of Christ. The closely clipped lawn in front of the chapel, and the rich growth of ivy on this portion of the structure, give an air of finish and age to the work. The entire cost of the building was half a million dollars. The same year, 1874, the Second Church (Con- gregational-LInitarian), on the Boylston-street side of Copley square, was completed. Built in part of the stones of the former church-building on Bed- ford street, which was taken down when business encroachments compelled a change, its modest freestone front is unpretentious ; yet, with its ivy- covered chapel adjoining, it is one of the most picturesque structures in the neighborhood. The broad and lofty interior, showing the open-timbered roof, is finished in rich, dark colors. Set up by the pulpit is the memorial tablet to Dr. Chandler Rob- bins (placed by his daughter), whose service as pastor covered a period of more than forty years ; and a companion tablet to the memory of other former pastors, Ralph Waldo I.merson and Henry Ware, who were colleagues, is contemplated. The BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 69 memorial organ, built by Hutchins, one of the finest in the city, was given by S. A. Denio, in memory of his daughter. Among the treasured possessions of the church is the rich communion service, contain- ing some very old pieces, and the baptismal basin, which has been in use since 1706. By the side of the pulpit stands the chair once used by Cotton Mather. The Second is the famous " church of the Mathers," Increase, Cotton, and Samuel, founded in 1649; and it was its second meeting-house in North square which the British soldiers pulled down and used for firewood during the Siege. During the pastorate of Edward A. Horton, which extended from 1880 to 1892, a debt of ;$45,ooo, which had been hanging for years, was lifted. Mr. Horton's resignation taking effect the ist of February, 1892, was greatly regretted by his people. Next rose Trinity (Protestant Episcopal; conse- crated Feb. 9, 1877), occupying the triangular- shaped lot bounded by Copley square. Clarendon street, and St. James avenue, the masterpiece of Richardson. In its design, a free rendering of the French Romanesque, as seen in the pyramidal towered churches of ancient Auvergne, its great central tower dominating the whole composition, it is the most imposing piece of church architecture we have in the country to-day. Cummings, in the "Memorial History," commends it as "a striking example of the round-arched architecture of the south of France," and Mrs. Van Rensselaer, in her " Recent Architecture in America," with more warmth and enthusiasm, pronounces it " the most beautiful structure that yet stands on our side of the ocean." Of the style which inspired the design, — that of the school that " flourished in the eleventh century in Central F"rance, the ancient Aquitane," and developed " a system of architecture of its own, differing from the classical manner in that while it studied elegance it was also constructional, and from the succeeding Gothic in that although con- structional it could sacrifice something of mechani- cal dexterity for the sake of grandeur or repose," as Richardson, in his own description, characterizes it, — the examples shown in the " peaceful, en- lightened, and isolated cities of Auvergne " were selected as best adapted for a building fronting on three streets. " The central tower, a reminiscence, perhaps, of the domes of Venice and Constanti- nople," was in Auvergne, Richardson says, fully de- veloped, so that in many cases it " became, as it were, the church, and the composition took the outline of a pyramid, the apse, transepts, nave, and chapels forming only the base to the obelisk of the tower." With the ordinary proportion of church and central tower, he contends, " either the tower must be comparatively small, which would bring its supporting piers inconveniently into the midst of the congregation, or the tower being large the rest of the church must be magnified to inordinate pro- portion. For this dilemma the Auvergnat solution seemed perfectly adapted. Instead of a tower being an inconvenient and unnecessary addition to the church, it was itself made the main feature. The struggle for precedence, which often takes place between a church and its spire, was disposed of by at once and completely subordinating nave, tran- septs, and apse and grouping them about the tower as the central mass." In plan, the church is a Latin cross, the arms of the cross short in propor- tion to their width, with a semicircular apse added to the eastern arm, itself forming the chancel. The tower, supported by four great piers placed close to the angles of the structure, thus causing no obstruc- tion to the sight, stands on the square at the inter- section of nave and transepts, and is closed in the church, at a height of one hundred and three feet, by a flat ceiling. The aisles are mere passage- ways ; " they would be very narrow for a CrOthic church," the architect observes, " but are in charac- ter for the Romanesque." The clear-story is car- ried by an arcade of two arches only. The gallery carried above the aisles across the arches, is dis- tinguished from its position by the name of the "triforium gallery," and it serves as a passage to connect the main galleries one across either transept, and the third across the west end of the nave over the vestibule. The robing-room opens from the north-east vestibule as well as from the chancel. The main western vestibule is fifty-two feet long, the width of the nave ; or, counting the lower story of the western towers which virtually form a part of it, upwards of eighty-six feet. The main portal, and the secondary doors opening into each of the towers, give three entrances into the west front ; the north-east vestibule serves as entrance both from the street and from the cloister communicating with the chapel adjoining, itself with its open outside stairway a picturesque piece of architecture ; and the south-eastern vesti- bule is entered from St. James avenue. The in- terior of the church is finished in black walnut and lighted by brilliant pictured windows ; and all the vestibules are in ash and oak. But the rich effect of color produced by the decorative work of John la Farge is the great feature of the interior. The frescos are in encaustic painting. The colossal figures painted in the great tower, of David and Moses, Peter and Paul, and Isaiah and Jeremiah, 70 BOSTON OF 'I'O-DAY. with the scriptural scenes high above, and the fresco in the nave, of Christ and the woman of Samaria, are especially fine. Of the exterior of the church the details are artistic in design, and the color also is effective, the yellowish Dedham and Westerly granite, of which the walls are mainly con- structed, harmonizing well with the rich brown of the Longmeadow freestone employed in the trim- mings and the cut-stone work. The stones from St. Botolph Church, in old Boston, Lincolnshire, presented by its authorities to Trinity, which are placed in the cloister between the church and chapel, are interesting memorials. Those hav- ing a fondness for statistics will be interested to know that 4,500 piles support Trinity, that the great tower weighs nearly 19,000,000 pounds, and that the finial on the tower is 211 feet from the ground. In the construction of the foundations of the church, stone saved from the ruins of the old church on Summer street, which went down in the great fire of 1872, were utilized. The cost of the new Trinity and buildings was about $800,000. The new Hollis-street, now the South Congre- gational Church (Congregational-Unitarian), New- bury and Exeter streets, was completed in the autumn of 1884, the ninth in the Back Bay district. Unlike its predecessors in this quarter it is built mainly of brick, with freestone and terra-cotta trimmings. It is in the Byzantine style of archi- tecture and the form of a square, but somewhat irregular in outline of plan. The peculiar style of the tower, the lower half circular and the upper twelve-sided, and the large gables, with circular turrets on each facade, the stained-glass windows within each gable, terra-cotta tiles above and below, and terra-cotta castings finishing the ridges of the roof, — all combined give to the structure an odd effect. The freestone columns, with car\-ed capitals, on each side of the main entrance door on New- bury street, are handsome ; and the gabled porch, surmounted by an octagonal tower finished with a curved roof, is an effective feature. The interior of the church is amphitheatre in form, the pews radiating from a common centre. The pulpit is set well forward, and just above it is the organ and choir gallery. The prevailing colors of the interior decorations are light. Of the memorial windows, one is to the memory of John Pierpont, and the other of the gifted Starr-King, both famous pastors of the old Hollis-street. The vestry, or lecture- room, with class-rooms adjoining, and the literary and ladies' parlors, with kitchen nearby, are in the basement. The church is the successor of the old meeting-house which long stood on Hollis street, and is now transformed into the Hollis-street Theatre.' The first meeting-house of the society was built in 1751-52, and the first minister was the " Tory, wit, and scholar," Mather Byles. The South Congregational Society (founded in 1827), Rev. Edward Everett Hale's, purchased the church in 1887, and moved into it in October that year, when the two societies were practically united. The Spiritual Temple (completed in 1885), op- posite the new Hollis-street, the main entrance on Exeter street, is still more peculiar in design. The style is the Romanesque. Of rough granite and free- stone, the front elaborately ornamented and enriched with carvings, it excites the curiositv of the stranger, who finds it difficult to determine the nature of the building until his eye catches the name cut in the stone over the majestic arch at the entrance. Be- neath the inscription and occupying the spandrels of the arch are two circular panels, carved with symbols of the society established here, and a belt of elaborate carving extends entirely around the building at the top of the chief story. The arrange- ment of the interior is simple and convenient. The well-lighted and brightly decorated audience-room occupies the chief story ; on the floor above it are smaller halls ; and on that below is another lecture- room, library, and a reading-room. The Temple is the meeting-house of the " Working Union of Progressive Spiritualists," and was built by a wealthy merchant, Marcellus J. Ayer, at a "cost of $250,000. The Mount Vernon (Congregational-Trinitarian), Beacon street and West Chester park, is the newest church in the district. This also is Romanesque in style, of Roxbury stone, with buff Amherst stone trinnnings, and carvings about the arched entrances, the finials, and the top of the square side tower, terminating in the steeple. The main front on Beacon street has the triple entrance, with gables and a rich rose-window, the \\'est Chester park side shows a double front, with a triple two-story front and rose-window above, and the river side is two stories with three arched stone dormers. The in- terior is on the cruciform plan. The roof is open- timbered, with ash trusses, and the finish generallv is in ash. The vestry and class-rooms are in the north transept on the first floor, and over the vestry is a dining-room with kitchen and pantries adjoin- ing. The minister's room and the ladies' parlor are in the second story, on the West Chester park side. The architects of this church were Walker & Kimball. It succeeds the sombre granite-front church which has so long stood on Ashburton 1 See chapter on the Theatres. BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 71 WOODBURY BUILDING. place. Since its organization in 1842 the Mt. Vernon Society has had but two pastors, — Edward N. Kirk, whose service extended from 1842 to 1874, closing only with his death, and Samuel E. Herrick, who began first in 187 i as associate pastor. \\'ith the churches should be classed the building of the Young Men's Christian Association, Boylston and Berkeley streets, opposite the Natural History building. It is quiet and tasteful in design and warm in color, through the blending of brick and brown-stone. The style of architecture is defined as Scotch baronial. The feature of the Boylston- street fagade is the entrance porch, from a dignified flight of broad stone steps, over which is the motto "Teneo et teneor; " and the corner of the building is relieved by a round-roofed bay-window thrown out at the second story. The vestibule opens into a large reception-room, and within easy reach are inviting parlors, the library, reading, and game rooms, a small lecture-hall, and the business offices. On the floor above is the large, well-proportioned pub- lic hall, with anterooms ; in the next story various class-rooms and meeting-rooms of the directors and various committees ; and in the basement the gym- nasium, one of the largest and best-appointed in town. The Boston organization (established in December, 1851) is the oldest of the Young Men's Christian Associations in the country, and with the exception of that of Montreal, which was formed but one week earlier, the oldest in North America. The clubs established on the Back Bay, with the exception of the St. Botolph, jiossess houses es- pecially designed and built for their use.' The 1 See chaptur on Clubs. 72 BOSTON OF TO-DAY. Art Club-house, the oldest of the number (completed in the spring of 1882), on the corner of Dartmouth and Newbury streets, modestly finishes the line of striking architectural work on Dartmouth street, be- ginning with the brown-stone Pierce building and the new Public Library on Copley square. Built of dark brick, with brown-stone trimmings and terra- cotta decorations, in the familiar Romanesque style, its hexagonal tower on the principal corner, with the stone balcony projecting from it on the Newbury- street side, is the most notable feature. The mem- bers' entrance is from the stone porch on the New- bury-street front ; and through the arch of terra- cotta work on the Dartmouth-street side is the pub- lic entrance leading to the art gallery of the club. An effective piece of work is the semicircular stained-glass window over the club entrance porch. The interior of the house is admirably arranged and extensively decorated. The art gallery, broad and ample and well lighted by a large skylight, is tinted in Pompeian red ; and the three large parlors in the club proper are with different decorations, the colors so arranged as to blend and form a gradual change from dark to light shades. Other pleasant apart- ments are the library, the lecture, lounging, billiard, and supper rooms. The valuation of the Art Club's real estate was in 1891 Si 23,000. The Algonquin Club-house, on the north side of Commonwealth avenue, midway between Exeter and Fairfield streets, is the most sumptuous in town. The front of brick, with light-colored limestone trimmings, is highly ornamented and tasteful in de- tail. The style is based on that prevalent in the seventeenth century in France in the reign of Louis XIIL, "a brick and stone architecture," the archi-' tects say in their description, " thoroughly modern in character." In its design their aim was to give it " the expression appropriate to a club-house, that is to say, neither palatial nor domestic, though par- taking of both." The elaborately finished central entrance gives dignity to the building. Within, the house is commodious and elegantly appointed. From the great hall on the ground floor to the kitchens and apartments on the upper floors, every- thing is on a generous scale. The reading-room on the first floor above the entrance, the assembly-room and library on the next floor, and the general din- ing and breakfast and supper rooms on the third, extend across the entire front, and are furnished with an eye to every comfort. 'I'here are an abundance of private dining and supper rooms for large or small parties ; bifliard and card rooms ; and a ladies' caf6, dining and reception rooms, similar to those in the Somerset Club. L'pon the walls of the larger rooms, notably in the library and assembly rooms are a number of paintings, some of them good ex- amples of the work of leading modern artists. The assessors' valuation of the Algoncjuin's real estate in 1 891 was ^8232,000. The Athletic Club-house, on Exeter street, built of brick with stone trimmings, shows a plain exterior, the greatest attention in the architect's plans having been given to the interior arrangement. It is one of the largest and best-equipped club-houses of its kind in the country. Its ample gymnasium is pro- vided with the best apparatus attainable, and it has tennis, racquet, and hanil-ball courts, fencing and boxing rooms, bowling alleys and billiard-rooms, Turkish bath and swimming-tank, together with the regular features of the modern club, including a large restaurant. It is the only athletic club in the country having, with the gymnasium and other feat- ures, tennis and racquet courts under the same roof. The building was completed in December, 1888, and the plans of the late John Sturgis were closely followed by his successors, Sturgis & Cabot. In the domestic architecture of the city remark- able progress has been made during the last few years. There was some chance for improvement in taste from the time of the early modern movement which dictated the destruction of the old Hancock mansion on Beacon hill, and substituted the French mansard roofed houses, that were the vogue for a quarter of a century or more. Many of the archi- tects had studied in Paris, and much of their work recalled the atelier problems. The better examples of the period are the residences on Arlington street, notably those of Montgomery Sears, and in the block in which Mr. Henry W. Williams lives. The great fire of 1872 filled the offices of the architects with problems of business buildings, and withdrew them for the time from the study of the dwelling-house. Then, through the Philadelphia Exhibition, a strong impetus to interior decoration was given by the many exhibits of textile fabrics, both of Europe and the East, of William Morris' work in carpets and wall papers, as well as tiles, furniture, and other results of the English movement. The influence, however, of foreign elements of study in England, France, and Germany, both by the travelled student and those who had settled here, tended towards rather an eclectic bloom, and a struggle for the novel in design, which resulted in something of eccentricity rather than beauty. Exteriors were marred by lines of black brick and surfaces patched in many-colored stones. Subsequently some of the artists had become interested in the doing of inte- riors, and the restraint and refinement of color and . /'//'/Y^^^/VaM^//////// -IB e-'. V, BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 73 detail within became reflected witliout. 'I'lien tlie late H. H. Richardson's work, with its round arched Gothic, left its strong impress on the work of others. From his hand came Bishop Phillips Brooks' house on Clarendon street, and Henry L. Higginson's house on Commonwealth avenue. In somewhat similar style were the houses of Charles Whittier, and many more on Beacon street and Commonwealth avenue, with a pleasing tendency to French work, as seen in the two houses designed together for Drs. VVesselhoeft and Bell on Common- wealth avenue. The latest movement has been in a return to the classic in motive, and much dignity has resulted, as in the examples owned by Mrs. Francis Skinner, Charles Head, and others, on Beacon street. \\'hile in similar lines, but with much more feeling for the stately houses which were built for the merchants of the early part of the century, here as well as in Salem and Portsmouth, may be named the houses of Arthur Beebe, John Forrester Andrew, on Commonwealth avenue, and several others not yet quite completed. Within doors the same taste which has shown itself in the exterior designs is repeated in almost all the houses which have been mentioned. Frederick L. Ames bought, added to, and altered a house which was of the earlier type, and the interior is one noted for its beauty and splendor. It was one of the last works of the architect John H. Sturgis. There is very little in planning which differs from that of dwellings in other American cities, except an absence of picture-galleries. The Bostonian scatters his possessions of art throughout the house, regard- less of danger from fire ; and even the almost price- less collection of Millet's work is in a country house which might be swept away in a couple of hours. But four statues have thus far been i)la(ed in the Back Bay quarter outside the Public Garden : the portrait statues of Alexander Hamilton, (jen. John Glover, and William Lloyd Clarrison, and the ideal " Leif, the Norseman," — the first three in the Com- monwealth-avenue parkway, and the fourth at the beginning of the extension of the avenue west of West Chester park. The Hamilton, which was the first erected (in 1865), the work of Dr. William Rimmer, was received by the local critics with a chorus of disapproval. It was the first statue in the country cut from granite, and it was a popular opinion that this stone was too harsh for such use. But Dr. Rimmer had done fine work in the same material, notably a colossal head of St. Stephen, which had won hearty praise from seasoned critics ; and the head of the Hamilton also was generally commended. The trouble was less with the stone used than with the moulding and draping, or swathing rather, of the figure. The Glover, in bronze, done by Martin Milmore, which was set up ten years after the Hamilton, is much more pictur- esque in detail, and less stiff in pose. The heavy military cloak falls in graceful folds over the Con- tinental uniform, and the hardy figure of the old Marblehead soldier, with sword in hand and one foot resting on a cannon, is drawn in broad and vigorous lines. The Garrison, also in bronze, and of heroic size, is the strongest figure of the three. The head erect and turned slightly towards the right, the high forehead and the strong features of the uncompromising agitator, are admirably por- trayed ; and the attitude of the figure, sitting in a large arm-chair, the long frock-coat open and the folds falling on either side, the left leg advanced and the right bent at a sharp angle, is easy and natural. The right hand holds a manuscript, and under the chair lies a volume of the " Liberator." The Garrison is the work of Olin L. Warner, of New York, and was placed in 1886. The bronze Leif, by Miss Anne Whitney, is the most interesting of all our out-door sculpture. The youth of sturdy, supple frame stands in an eager attitude at the prow of his vessel, his gaze fixed as if to discern the first sight of a new and strange land. The figure is clad in a shirt of mail with bossed breastplates and a studded belt from which a knife hangs in orna- mental sheath, close-fitting breeches and sandals. From beneath the casque covering the head the long, wavy hair of the Saxon type flows over the shoulders. The eyes are shaded with the uplifted left hand, the right grasping at the hip a speaking- horn, itself a beautiful bit of work, ornamented in relief The weight of the body is thrown upon the left foot, and the head is turned slightly to the left. VII. THE SOUTH END. ITS DEVELOPMENT FROM THE NARROW NECK IN- TERESTING INSXmjTIONS AND CHURCHES THE OREAT CATHEDRAL. ALTHOUGH shorn of its glory by the lavish development of the Back Bay territory, and no longer the foshionable quarter of the town, the South End is yet an attractive section, with its broad and pleasant streets, inviting small parks, important 74 BOSTON OI" I'O-DAY. public buildings, institutions, and churches, and many substantial dwellings of sober exterior with an air of roominess within. Here are seen more fre- quently than in the newer parts examples of the once popular " old Boston " style of domestic archi- tecture, — the round, swell front of generous width. But the peculiarity of this quarter, and that which so sharply marks the difference between it and the newer fashionable quarter, is the uniform style oi the blocks of houses lining street after street ; uni- formity was the [jrevailing note in the old, variety is that in the new. The making of new land and the building of the modern South Knd was begun in a small way man}' years ago. Originally the narrow " Neck," from Dover street to the Roxbury line, the earliest move- ment towards improvement here was made in i8oi, when the selectmen reported to the March town- meeting a plan for " laying out the Neck lands," in which lots were marked off and streets were drawn regularly and at right angles. " To introduce variety a large circular space " was also marked, to be orna- mented with trees and called " Columbia square." " In reality," says Shurtleff, " it was an oval grass- plot, bounded by four streets, with Washington street running through its centre ; indeed, the identical territory now included in Blackstone and Franklin squares." l!ut the improvement moved slowly, and it was not until fifty years later, long after Boston had become a city, that it was systemati- cally advanced. This was in 1849-50-5 1, during the administration of .Mayor Bigelow, when a high grade for the lands was adopted, and in accordance with plans drawn by E. S. Chesbrough and William P. Parrott, experienced engineers, new streets and squares were laid out. Among the latter were Chester square and East Chester and West Chester parks (established in 1850), and Union park (in 185 1 ). And at the beginning of this movement, in February, 1849, the old Columbia square was divided and transformed into the present Franklin and Blackstone squares. Two years before, the filling of the marsh lands on the east side of the Neck, known as South Bay, was begun, and subsequently that terri- tory was graded and laid out in streets and lots. While within this quarter there is nothing ap- proaching the architectual display of the New West End, there are not a few noteworthy structures which arrest the eye. Here are the buildings of the City Hospital, of the Massachusetts Homceopathic Hos- pital, and of Boston College ; the great Latin and English High Schools, and near by the Latin School for Girls, and the Girls' High School. And of churches here are the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, the Church of the Immaculate Conception, the Tremont Methodist, the Shawmut Congregational, the First Presbyterian, the Peoples', the Columbus- avenue LTniversalist, the LTnion (Columbus avenue), the Church of the Disciples (founded by James Freeman Clarke), the A\'arren-avenue Baptist, the Berkeley Temple, the Church of the Unity (where the Rev. M. J. Savage preaches), the New South (Unitarian), the Clarendon-street, the Shawmut- avenue LTniversalist, the Ohabei Sholom (Hebrew, formerly the old South Congregational Church, Dr. Edward E. Hale's'), and the Reformed Episco- pal. Of hotels here are the Grand on Columbus avenue, and the marble front Langham (formerly the Commonwealth) on Washington street; of memorial buildings with public halls, the Parker (in honor of Theodore Parker, transferred to the Benevolent Fraternity of Churches in 189 1), on Berkeley street, and the Paine (in commemoration of Thomas Paine), on Appleton street; and of theatres, the (Irand Opera House. The headquar- ters of the Odd Fellows are also here, in their own building, at the junction of Berkeley and Tremont streets ; the New England Conservatory of Music, pleasantly facing Franklin square ; and a large number of modern apartment-houses. One of the most interesting groups is that of the City Hospital, the Church of the Immaculate Concep- tion, and the Boston College, on Harrison avenue, between East Springfield and Concord streets, the former occupying the east side of the avenue, and the latter the west side. The hospital, consisting of nine pavilions connected with the central structure, known as the Administration building, and numerous other buildings, including a home for the training- school nurses, is designed in accordance with the most approved models. The buildings are sub- stantial, dignified, and sober in style, the only at- tempt at architectural effect being made in the cen- tral structure, in the design of its fiiQade, and the dome which crowns it. With their well-kept grounds they cover a square containing nearly seven acres. ° The Church of the Immaculate Conception and the Boston College were both built under the auspices of the Jesuit Fathers, and completed in 1S60-61. The church was one of the first stone church buildings in the city. It is a solid granite structure, without tower or spire, and the peculiar- ity of its design at once attracts attention. The 1 See chapter on New West End ; paragraph on New HoUis-street Church. 2 Tlic Home for Convalescents, in connection with the hospital, is pleasantly situated on Dorchester avenue, Dorcliester district. The estate consists of fifteen acres of land, partly under cultivation and partly woodland. The City Hospital was first established in 1S64. BOSTON OF TO-DAY. statues of the Virgin and of the Saviour, with out- stretched arms, the former placed above the entrance and the latter above all, are the striking features of the la(;ade, marking the character of the edifice and the great church organization to which it belongs. In the interior, however, the most elaborate work is seen. Two rows of Ionic columns, with richly orna- mented capitals, mark the line of the side aisles. On the keystone of the chancel arch is a bust rep- resenting Christ ; on the opposite arch, over the choir-gallery, one representing the Virgin ; on the capitals of the columns, busts of the saints of the Society of Jesus ; and over each column a figure representing an angel suppprting the entablature. The altar is of marble and richly ornamented. On the panels an abridgment of the life of the Virgin is sculptured, and on either side of the structure are three Corinthian columns, with appropriate entabla- tures and broken arches surmounted by statues of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin, the whole terminated by a silver cross with an adoring angel on each side. On the right of the broken arch is a figure of St. Ignatius, and on the opposite side that of St. Francis Xavier. The elliptic dome over the chancel, lighted by colored glass, and with a dove with outspread wings in the middle, is effective. The chapels within the chancel rails are dedicated, that on the Gospel side to St. Joseph, and that on the Epistle side to St. Aloysius. The painting of the Crucifixion, behind the high altar, is by Gari- baldi, of Rome. The Boston College buildings are of brick, with little attempt at architectural display. The cost of the church and the college was ^350- 000. The architect of the church was P. C. Keely, of Brooklyn, N.Y., the interior designed by the late Arthur Oilman. The architect of the original City Hospital buildings was G. J. F. Bryant. In the immediate neighborhood of these build- ings is that of the New England Conservatory of Music, the old St. James Hotel (built in 1867-68 by Maturin M. Ballou), remodelled and enlarged for the purposes of the college. It is attractive in de- sign, of fine proportions, consisting of seven stories and a dome ; and it is admirably arranged for its present use. The Conservatory embraces fifteen separate departments, and in the College of Music proper, for advanced musical students, in connec- tion with the Boston University,' degrees in music are conferred. The students come from all parts of the country, numbering several thousand each year. The institution was the enterprise of the late Eben Tourgde, and was established in 1867 in rooms in the Music Hall building. When the present 1 See chapter on Some Noteworthy Buildings. building was secured for its accommodation, in 1882, its plan and scope were considerably enlarged. Within the building is now a large concert-hall, reci- tation and practice rooms, library, reading-room, parlors, and museum ; adjoining it is Sleeper Hall, added in 1885. The Cathedral of the Holy Cross on Washington street, but a short distance below the Conservatory, built of Roxbury stone with granite trimmings, is the largest and in some respects the finest Catholic church in New England. Its outward appearance is at present disappointing, largely because of the abrupt ending of the towers on the principal facade ; but when these and the turrets, all of unequal height, are surmounted by the spires called for in the origi- nal design, it will be more dignified and imposing. The great tower on the south-west corner, with its spire, will be 300 feet high, and the smaller one on the other corner, 200 feet high. The style of the church is the early English Gothic, cruciform, with nave, transept, aisle, and clere-story, the latter sup- ported by two rows of clustered metal pillars. Its total length is 364 feet, the width at the transept 170 feet, the width of nave and aisles 90 feet, the height of the nave 120 feet; and the entire building covers more than an acre of ground. The arch separating the front vestibule from the church is of bricks taken from the ruins of the Ursuline Convent on Mount Benedict in Somer\'ille, which was burned by a mob on the night of August 11, 1834.' The interior or- namentation and decoration of the church are rich and lavish. The chancel is unusually deep, and the altar within it, of variegated marble, is elaborate and costly. On the Gospel side stands the Episcopal throne, the cathedra of the archbishop. On the ceiling of the chancel are painted angels typifying Faith, Hope, and Charity, on a background of gold. The frescoing on the walls is handsome. The im- mense windows are nearly all filled with stained glass, both foreign and American, representing va- rious scenes and characters in Christian history. The designs on the transept windows represent the 1 Tlie picturesque ruins of the Ursuline Convent occupied the height known .is Mt. Benedict, in Somerville, a short distance from Charlestown Neck, until a few years ago, when the hill was levelled. The convent was established in Boston in 1S20, and first occupied a building adjoining the old Cathedral in Franklin street; it was re- moved to Mt. Benedict in 1S26. The grounds about the building, which stood on the summit of the hill, were laid out in terraces, with fine orchards, shade-trees, and gardens. The burning of the buildmg by the mob, who were infuriated by stories of iil-treatmentof inmates, notably Rebecca Reed, a pupil, and Sister Mary John, was a wanton act deplored by orderly citizens. In Boston a meeting to denounce it was held in Faneuil Hall, at which Harrison Gray Otis and Josiah Qiiincy, Jr., were among the speakers. Thirteen of the rioters were arrested, but only one, Marvin Marccy, Jr., the least guilty, it was said, was convicted. He was .afterwards pardoned on the petition of the bishop and others, on the ground that he should not suffer punish- ment wllile the ringleaders escaped. BOSTON OF TO-DAY. 77 Exaltation of the Cross by the Emperor Herac- lius, and the miracle " by which the True Cross was verified." Those on the chancel windows represent the Crucifixion, the Ascension, and the Nativity ; these are memorial windows, gifts to the church. Smaller stained-glass windows in the clere-story of the transejit and the chancel represent biblical sub- jects. The interior terminates in an octagonal apse. On the right of the church is the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, containing a marble statue represent- ing the Virgin. The three other chapels are those the ground adjoining the cathedral, on the corner of Union Park street and Harrison avenue, is the man- sion-house of the archbishop, in which are the chief offices of the archdiocese. The cathedral was eight years in building, and was consecrated with a brill- iant service on the 8th of November, 1S75. P. C. Keely, of Brooklyn, N.Y., was the architect. Most of the South End Protestant churches which make any pretensions to architectural effect are in the familiar Gothic -style. One of the earliest built here, dating from 1862, that of the Tremont- NEV^ ENGLAND CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC. of St. Joseph, St. Patrick, and the Blessed Sacra- ment. Between the latter and the sanctuary is the large vestry. The great organ, the sixth in size in the world, is built around the exquisite rose-window of the west, and the chantry, with the smaller organ, is near the chancel and the archiepiscopal throne. Of the chapels, that of the Blessed Sacrament is a beautiful piece of architecture, and it has a peculiar interest in that it contains the altar of the old cath- edral which stood so long in Franklin street.' In ^ The business block known as the "Cathedral buildings," on Franklin street, now occupies the site of the old catliedral. It was the second Catholic church in Boston, and its establishment was due to the zeal of Fathers Francis Antony Matignon and John de Cheverus, exiled French priests, who came here, the former in 1792 and the latter four years later. Both made warm friends among Protestants as well Street. Methodist (Hammatt Billings, architect), with low walls and finely proportioned spires, is still re- garded as one of the most artistic in design. Lower as Catholics, and in the movement for the new church the generous aid of a number of influential Protestants was secured. The sub- scription to the building fund was headed by John Adams. A bell brought from Spain was given by Hasket Derby. The building was designed by Bulfinch; and it was consecrated by Bishop Carroll, of Baltimore, Sept. 29, 1S03. Boston at this time was only a mis sion ; and when in iSoS it was created an episcopal see, the diocese then embracing all Xew England, Father Cheverus was made the first bishop. In 1S25 he was translated to France, and died, cardinal- archbishop, in Bordeaux, in 1836. Dr. Matignon died here in Boston, Sept. 19, iSiS. His remains lie buried under the floor of the mortuary chapel of St. Augustine in the Catholic cemetery in South Boston. Boston was created an archbishopric in 1875, and Bishop John Joseph Williams was made the first archbishop. The old cathedral was sold in 1S60 to Isaac Rich, for $1 15,000. The first Catholic church was on School street, established in 17S4, in a chapel previously occupied by French Huguenots. 78 BOSTON OP^ TO-DAY. down Tremont street, at the corner of Brookline street, the Shawmut Congregational Church (Con- gregational-Trinitarian), completed two years after, shows an effective piece of work in its tall, square campanile. Of this C. E. Parker was the architect. The unpretending meeting-house of the Church of the Disciples, on Warren avenue, is one of the most distinguished in the South End, not because of its architectural design, for it is one of the plainest, but because it was the pulpit of James Freeman Clarke. It was completed in i86g, and dedicated on the twenty-eighth anniversary of the first public meeting of the society, Feb. 28, 1841. At that first meeting it was resolved that the society should never rent or sell or tax the seats, and from that day to this it has been a free church. The present house was built and furnished at a cost of §57,000, all given outright by subscriptions ranging from $5,000 to $5. The interior is very pleasant; " cheerful and sunny, like our faith," Dr. Clarke has described it. The auditorium is capacious, and will seat comfortably from 1,000 to 1,500 persons. Below it are two halls connected by sliding doors ; a large Sunday-school library room, also opening into the larger hall ; a pastor's room, class and committee rooms, and a kitchen. All are high, well ventilated, well lighted, well warmed. The establishment of the church, in the beginning, was Dr. Clarke's own idea, and he strove for it several years before it was ac- complished. It first met in halls ; then it built the Freeman-place Chapel, on Beacon hill (named for lames Freeman, first " reader" and afterwards rector of King's Chapel) ; and then, from 1853 until the present building was built, it was established in In- diana place. Among the earliest signers of the book of the church were Nathaniel Peabody and his three daughters, one of whom became the wife of Nathaniel Hawthorne, and another the wife of Horace Mann. John A. Andrew, Samuel J. May, Ellis Gray Loring, and George William Bond were other early members. For a while after the death of Dr. Clarke (in 1889) it was feared that the society would be scattered, but with the engagement of the Rev. Charles G. Ames as his succcessor, the ties were strengthened, and it is now again a strong organization. Of later churches, those on Columbus avenue are most noteworthy. The feature of the Columbus- avenue Universalist Church, built in 1872, at the corner of Clarendon street, also of Roxbury stone, is its shapely stone tower and steeple at the side, with the carriage-porch at the base; and that of the Union Church (Congregational-Trinitarian), built in 1870, farther up the avenue, at the corner of West Rutland street, is its picturesque outline, a rambling group of stone church and chapel, occupying the front of an entire square. The interior of the Universalist Church, built in the clere, without pillars, is light. It has painted windows rep- resenting the Man of Sorrows, the Risen Lord, and the Twelve Apostles ; symbols of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Purity ; and memorials of the first pas- tor of the church, the revered Hosea Ballou, of its Sunday-school superintendent for thirty years, Thomas A. Goddard, and of eight deceased dea- cons. This is Dr. A. A. Miner's pulpit, and the suc- cessor of the famous old School-street church. It was designed by the architects L. Newcomb & Co. The interior of the Union Church is made attractive by its high pitched roof of open-worked timbers. The old church which it succeeds was long on Essex street, and its most famous pastor in the old days was Nehemiah Adams, whose pastorate covered thirty- five years : a cultivated man who early won a reputa- tion as a writer as well as a preacher, but w.is more generally known in local history as the defender of the institution of slavery in his " South-side View of Slavery, " published after a visit to South Carolina in 1854, which drew upon him the sharp criticism of the band of earnest abolitionists here in Boston, by whom he was dubbed " South Side Adams." The two other churches on this avenue — the First Presbyterian, at the corner of Berkeley street, just below Dr. Miner's church, and the People's Metho- dist-Episcopal Church, on the opposite side — are not particularly strong architecturally. The interior of the People's Church is in its arrangement more like a theatre than a church, the object being to pro- vide for an unobstructed view of the platform from every seat. It is a free church, and its construc- tion was due largely to the untiring zeal of j. W. Hamilton, long its pastor. The work of building was begun in 1879, and it was completed in 1885. The Latin and English High School building on Warren avenue, Montgomery and Dartmouth streets, is the largest structure in the world used as a free public school, and much attention was given in its design to architectural effect. It is built of brick, in the modern Renaissance style, with all the lines of strength treated architecturally in buff sand- stone, and the frieze courses inlaid with terra-cotta. The exterior ornamentation in the terra-cotta work is from designs by the sculptor, T. H. Bartlett. The building occupies a parallelogram 420 feet long by 220 feet wide, and is designed after the German plan of the hollow square, with corridors following its outlines. The Latin School fronts on Warren ave- nue and the Flnglish High on Montgomery street, BOSTON OF '1X)-DAY. 79 WASHINGTONIAN HOME. ami the two are connected in the rear by the drill- hall and gymnasium, across the easterly end of the block. Across the westerly end, facing Dartmouth street, a building for the accommodation of the School Board and its officers may ultimately be built. Each of the street-fronts of the main building is divided into three pavilions. The divi- sion between the two courts of equal size within the block is made by the central or 'theatre" building, connected with the main street-fronts by a trans- verse corridor. The statuary decorating both of the great vestibules from the main entrances is good 8o IJOSrON OF TO-DAY. work. That in the vestibule on the Latin School side is the marble monument designed by Richard S. Greenough in honor of the Latin School graduates who were in the Civil War. The orator and the poet on the occasion of its dedication in 1870 — William M. Evarts and Dr. William P'verett — were graduates of the school. That in the vestibule of ■ J iiipijMwjii 'i^^^ .^fjurr- \. BUILDING OF THE POPE MANUFACTURING COMPANY. Taken from an oil-p:iintin