TT 515 X^. SKIRTS, DRESSES,, lllitid AU Outer Garmenl' Class. Book_ .^Zl^p. CoffyrightN" COPYRFCKT DEPOSIT. INCE the establishment of our firm 50 years ago, the ladies of Chicago and environs, as I fc^Ji^ ' II well as our mail customers, have shown us the most generous patronage. We have long desired to show our appreciation of this fact. One of our hardest task has been to find a suit- able offering welcome and useful to all. After entering into the merits of many proposi- tions, we have at last decided upon the free distri- bution to our customers of "The Parisian Ladies' Teuloring System," which enables every one to take measurements, make designs, cut her own patterns, fit and make for herself or for her family, or for professional purposes. Suits, Waists, Dresses, or any Outer Garment, in accordance with the prevailing styles. It is our sincere hope that this book will be wel- come and invaluable in every household, and that it will be a guide and boon to the great masses of our patrons. The Excelsior Dry Goods Company. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM fi or Designing, Pattern Cutting, Fitting and Making Waists, Skirts, Dresses, Suits And All Outer Garments A MEANS OF SELF EDUCATION AND A GUIDE FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTRUCTION IN TRADE SCHOOLS AND DOMESTIC SCIENCE INSTITUTIONS ith Over 100 Explanatory Drawings in Text, including Four Supplementary Charts 22x28 inches of Full Size Patterns and Grading Instruction for Professional Designers <. Z. ZEISLER Copyrighted 1917 by A. Z. Zeisler \ o Contents ^\ ^ %"< II. III. IV. Page Testimonials 2 Charts 3 Bddy measurements; Figs. 1 and 2 4 Tlu' iiieasurenients and their order •> Measurements ol" lengtli and width .') Remarks on measurements ,") How to talve tlie measure- ments (i Around the bust .... (i Lenglli of l)ark .... fi Widlli of haek .... Lengtli of sides .... (i Around llie waist ... 7 Size of arniliole .... 7 Heiglit of shoulder ... 7 Around tlie liips .... 7 Width of chest .... 7 Height ol' front .... 7 Lengtli iif front .... 7 Length of slujuhler . . . S Around the neck .... S Length of underarm . . S Circumference of arm . . S Preparing our scales ... 8 Preparing the scale of length '.I Preparing the scale of width 9 "J'he designing of the funda- mental waist pattern . . Id Remarks hefoi-e remeasiuing the fundamental iialtern 2(1 Remeasiuing the measures of width 21 Renieasuring the measures of length 22 Adaption of the normal pat- tern for changed ligures . 23 The forward bent ligure . 2.'! '''he backward bent figure . 21 The ligure with broad back and flat chest .... 2.^ Page V. (Continued) The figure with full chest and flat back .... 2(1 The figure with high shoulders 27 The ligure with sloping shoulders 28 The slender figure ... 29 The .short built ligure . . 30 y\. Cutting of lining and material 31 VH. Constructing the upper and under sleeve .... 32 Renieasuring the upper and under sleeve .... 34 YITI. Possible changes in the fashions 35 IX. The fundamental pattern the basis of designing and liatternmaking .... 38 X. 'file shirtwaist in its different forms 38 XT. Collar construction ... 46 XII. Pockets 50 XIII. Culls and sleeves .... 50 XIV. 'file cutting of a circular skirt pattern 52 XV. 'fhe cutting of the gored and ])leated skirt .... 50 XVI. Changing the fundamental pattern to seamed shoul- der effect in front and back CI XVII. ,\rraiiging the pattern for suits, .jackets and outer garments 64 XVIII. The cutting of collars for tailored suits and cloaks . 06 XIX. 'file cutting of capes from the fundamental pattern . . 82 XX. For ])rofe;;sional designers: "The Grading" .... 85 Tables I, II, III, IV, folded at end of book: I. Scales of length and width, "Original size." II. Full sized fundamental pattern of ba.sciue and sleeves. III. and IV. "Grading" for Professional Designcr.s. JAN 10 tyi8 \,\n A \^ ,\^ i\\ Preface VERY woman's ambition is to be at least as perfectly gowned as her neighbor. The secret of correct gowning lies in the correct fit of the garment to the individual figure of the wearer. We know that the styles change frequently from season to season, but we must bear in mind that the underlying principle is the "Fundamental Pattern " the so-called "Basque, " and after ^ve have this, we are able to execute any desired style according varia- tions in vogue. Many of our Cutting Academies, however, which still cling to "Old Worn Out System" make a number of body measurements the basis of their instructions and graduate their pupils with a stock of stereotyped patterns in hand, and numerous sets of figures in mind, of which memory soon makes a jumble. Some of our tailors and dressmakers in consequence make the sad mistake of attempting to use one pattern for all figures, without discrimination. They reason that all that is needed is a little "taking in, " or a "little letting out" of the original pattern in order to make it conform to the slim or stout figures of their patrons. As actual trial soon convinces them of the incorrectness of their w^ork, and of the impossibility of fitting individual figures in this fashion, they are compelled to waste not only their time and labor in making neces- sary alterations, but also wear out the patience of their patrons, and in the end they turn out garments which are seldom perfect fitting, comfortable and chic. For several years there has been a widespread demand for some rational course in Pattern Designing. The author, through long years of experience in foreign countries, and for years in Nev^f York with one of the largest wholesale houses as designer and pattern cutter in ladies' w^earing apparel of all descriptions, has planned this book to serve as a basis for such a course. At the same time its careful omission of all technical expressions, and its plain, simple language cannot fail to recommend it as "A SELF INSTRUCTOR" to home dressmakers who desire well fitting clothes. In pattern designing there are three important considerations to bear in mind: 1) That all figures are fundamentally similar. 2) That no two human figures are exactly alike. 3) That styles vary with the seasons. Hence the author has sought to explain first, the making of a FUNDAMENTAL PATTERN, and secondly, all changes of form and style that can be made by modification of this pattern. It is certain therefore, that this book will be a boon to those who give instruction in dressmaking courses, to thousands who have chosen dressmaking as a profession, and also to the home dress- maker. A. Z. Zeisler. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Testimonials From Louis Grancr & Co.. Cloaks, Mantles, Etc., 305 Canal St.. New York, N. Y. To ■\vhoni it may concern : I consider the cutting system of Mr. A. Z. Zeisler as practical ami useful to LOUIS GRANER. ladies makiufi' their own garments. Ji/^^. -^^^.^ ^,^. From L. Adler, Manufacturer of Furs, 39 St. Marks Place, NcAv York, N. Y. To Mr. A. Z. Zeisler : At your request I herewith cheer- full j' testify that 3'ou have been mak- ing i^atterns for my customers, and that the garments tlius made fit ex- actly without being tried on fir.st. Therefore I, as well as my Inisiness relations, are thoroughly pleased with your system. Respectfully, L. ADLER. Mr. A. Z. Zeisler, Practical Designer, Clevelaiul, Ohio. At present in Cleveland. Dear Professor : The luulersigned, a committee of your pupils, beg leave to hand you here- with a medal as an inadequate mark of our highest respect and our sineerest appreciation of you as our teacher. AVe shall ever remember the most valuable course we went through, aided by your unerring guidance and your lucid explana- tion of the Tailor Sy.stem. Well may Ave congratulate ourselves to have found your method so plain and instructive that after attending your course but for four- teen evening lessons, we are now fully enabled to make all kinds of patterns in the ladies' dresses and cloak branch, and to grade them most accurately, in a way sur- passing all that was known heretofore. All of which we beg to otTer in the name and as the true sentiment of the pupils of your evening course. Very Respectfidly, THE COMMITTEE. Adolf Barber, J. Goodman, C. Goodman. PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM Charts (At end of volume.) TABLE I The Scales of Length and Width in Original Size The scales of length divided into sixteen (16) equal parts from a 13-inch length of back to ITJ inches. The scales of width divided into eighteen (IS) equal parts from a 30-incIi (1.5-ineli lialf measurement) to 4S-inch (24-inch half measurement) around the bust. TABLE II A Full Sized Fundamental Pattern of Basque and Sleeves A full sized 86 figure fundamental pattern of basque and sleeves, with a scale of all width and length measurements and construction lines, showing how they are made. For Professional Designers (See explanation on page 85) TABLE III The grading of upper and under sleeves, in full, from a 36 figure down to 30, and up to 48, giving a tabulation of all the necessary measurements. Table IV The proper grading of front, back, and side parts in full. from a 36 figure down to a 30, and up to a 48 bust measure, ac- companied by a chart giving all required measurements, and also showing the construction of the seamed front made from a loose one. Around the Bust. Length of Back. Width of Back, Length of Sides. Around the Waist, 10. Size of Armhole. Height of Shoulder, Around tlie Hips. Width of Chest. Height of Front. 11. li;. *13. 14. Length of Front. Lengtii of Slioulder. Around tlie Necli. Lengtii of Under Arm. Circumference of Arm. * Record One-half of all Measurements Marked (*). PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Measurements and Their Order (See Fig. 1—2) The measurements are very important. Their chief purpose is to give a thor- ough knowledge of the build of the body for whioh tlie garment is to be made, and by their means we are enabled to make our pattern correctly and easily for the model. The diagrams. Fig 1 — 2, show in which way and in what order the measure- ments are to be taken. After some practice and experience we will be able to pro- duce any style of garment to correspond to these given measurements. In the making of waists, suits, skirts, and all outer garments, we need the following fifteen measurements in order. *1. Around the bust 2. Length of back *3. Width of back 4. Length of sides *5. Around the waist 6. 7. *8. *9. 10. Size of armhole Height of shoulder Around the hips Width of chest Height of front 11. Length of front 12. Length of shoulder ''lo. Around the neck 14. Length of inider arm 15. Circumference of arm Measurements of Length and Width (See Fig. 1 — 2) In taking the measurements we notice that all our measurements are length and width measurements. The Measurements of Length Are: 4. 7. Height of front Length of front 12. IL Length of shoulder Length of luider arm Length of back 10. Length of sides 11. Height of shoulder All length measurements are to be recorded in full. 6. Size of armhole. 15. Circumference of arm, altho not length measure ments are also recorded in full. The Measurements of Width Are: *9. Width of chest '^IS. Around the neck *1. Around the bust I *5. Around the waist *3. Width of back I *8. Around the hips In the width measurements only one-half of the measurements taken are recorded. Remarks on Measurements In oi'der not to omit any measurements and to avoid mistakes, it is advis- able to take a strip of paper numbered and marked with the 15 measurements in order. This Avill be of great help to the beginner. All of the examples given in this book are based upon 36 bust figure with a length of back of 15 inches. Figs. 1 — 2 show that in taking the measurements we begin from the back of the model, measuring, namely: *1. Around the bust 2. Length of back *3. Width of back 4. Length of sides *5. Around the waist 6. Size of arm hole 7. Height of shoulder ♦Record One-half of all Measurements Marked (*). PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Tliis done, we proceed from the front of the tigure, as shown in Fig. 1 — 2 and measure : *8. Around the liips *9. Width of chest 10. Height of front 11. Length of front 12. Length of shoulder *13. Around the neck 14. Length of under arm 15. Circumference of arm How to Take the Measurements (See Fig. 1—2) All the measurements given in the column to the left are those of a regular 36-inch around th<' bust figure, with a length of back of 15 inches. All illus- trations in this book are based on the same model. * 1 . Around the Bust Around the bust, 18 inches. One-half of tin- bust meas- ure. This measurement is taken from tlie back of the model, around the fullest part of the bust, under the arms, and around the back, about six inches below the collar. Record onlv one-half. 2. Length of Back Length of back, 15 inches. "Write as follows : 15/26/51 By this we understand that our length of back is 15 inches to the waist line, 26 inches for jacket length, and 51 inches from the neck bone to the bottom of the skirt. Take this measurement along the center of the back, from the neck bone down along the spine, to the waist line, and Record in full. If we take this measurement for a jacket or coat, we write this length also. If Ave wish to take the measurement for a skirt we record all three in full, as shown in the opposite colunni. * 3. Width of Back *3. Width of back, 62- inches. One-half of the measure. lie careful to take this measiirement neither too narrow nor too wide — always according to the actual fashion — across the back from one armhole to the other, with the arms dropped in natural position at sides. Record onlv one-half. 4. Length of Side 4. Length of side, | 8-i inches. J Write 8-1/27/52, as the ^ three desired lengths, [ This measurement is taken from the arm- pit to the waist line. For jackets and skirts measure down to the desired lengths, and record as shown in the opposite column in full. •Record One-half of all Measurements Marked (*). PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 5. Around the Waist Measurement Around the waist, 13 inches. One-half of tlie measure- ment. J W(> take this where the marked, and measurement waistline is from most Record only one-half. the back, distinctly Size or armhole, 16 inches. 6. Size of Armhole f Taken from the back around the arm socket, J where the sleeve joins the dress. Take care- fully, as arms are differently developed. Record in full. Height of shoulder, 33i inches. 7. Height of Shoulder This is an important measurement, as some models have sloping and some high shoul- ders. Begin at the waist line in the center of the back, run over the highest point of the shoulder, along the most developed part of the bust, down to the center waistline in the front. Record in full. 8. Around the Hips *8. Around the hips, 20 inches. One-half. L Tliis measure is taken from the front around the most pronounced part of the hips, about 7 inches below the waistline. Record only one-half. *9. Width of chest, 8^ inches. One-half. Width of Chest Take along front from one armhole to the other in a downward inclined bow line over the most developed part of the bust. Record only one-half. 10. Height of Front 10. Height of front, 21 inches. 1 Begin at the back neck bone at the base of the neck, run over the shoulder to the center of the front to the waistline. Record in full. 11. Length of front, 16/26/51 I I. Length of Front ^ Tliis measurement begins in front at the base of the neck and runs down to the waistline. J For jackets and skirts, measure down to the required length of these garments. Record in full. Record One-half of aU Measurements Marked (*). PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 12. Ijciigth of shoulder, 5 inches. 12. Length of Shoulder Measure I'l-oui the base of the neck along shoul- der to the arm socket. This length depends upon prevailing fashions, and could be made shorter or longer, as explained later. Record in full. *13. Around tlie neck, 64 inches. * I 3. Around the Neck / Run the tape measure around the base of the neck. Record one-half. 1 4. Length of Under Arm 14. Length of under arm. 8J — 18 iuchea. M<'asuri' fi'oni the armpit down to the inside of the elbow .ioint then down to the wrist, and reco^'d botii of the ascertained measures as shown in opposite column. Record in full. 15. Circumference of Arm 15. Circumference of arm, 10 inches. Pass till' tape around tin- thickest part of the arm, ami Record in full. Preparing Our Scales (See Tables I— IT at end of Volume) Since our system is based \ipon length and a\ idth measurements, we need cori-ect scales of mi-asuri'mrnts in order to design a fundamental pattern for each model. Our scale of length is based upon measurenu'ut (two) 2. the length of back. The scale of width depends upon measurement (one) 1, the around the bust measure. In our previous study we saw that the length of back of a regular 36 figure is 15 inches and that 18 inches was recorded as one-half of the around the bust measurement. With these in mind we are ready for our scale. * Record One-half of aU Mpasiirements Marked (■•). .PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Scale of Length Take a strip of paper one inch in width, exactly as long as the length of back to the -waistline. In example cited tliat lengtli is 15 inches. Fold this strip of paper into four equal parts, and each of these divisions again into four equal parts. Thus the whole length of back is divided into sixteen (16) parts, which serve as our scale of length. Kemember that if the length of l)ack is shorter, the divisions will be shorter, and if we have a longer length of back, the divisions will be longer, but the length must always be divided into sixteen (16) equal parts. The Scale of Width In preparing the scale of width, do not forget that we use as a basis one- half of the around the bust measurement. In our illustration of the 36 model, we recorded 18 inches. Cut a strip of paper one inch (1) wide, exactly one-half as long as the around the bust measure. Fold inta three equal parts. Then refold each of those equal parts into three. Next fold each of these nine (9) equal parts in half. We have now eighteen (IS) equal parts. In tlu' illustration each of these parts is one (1) inch long, but do not forget, 1st. that tin- size of the parts vary with the bust mea.sure ; 2d, that , one-half of the around tlie bust measure is always divided into eighteen (18) equal •^ parts. Remarks About the Scales For convenience in making the scales of length and width easily and cor- rectly, 3'ou will find at the end of the book in Table I, scales of length from 13 to 174 inches length of back, and scales of width from 15 to 24 inclies one-half aro^^nd the bust measurement. These scales of length and scales of width in Table I should be used for both Df our scales, as they have the advantage of being divided correctly. If we copy these scales of length and width from Table I and paste each on a separate strip of cardboard, we have both of our scales in readiness for any size of figure, and thus avoid wasting time preparing them when needed. For the pupil it is of the greatest importance to know how our scales of lengtli and width are prepared for any figure, should he be called upon to make these scales himself. Bear in mind simpl.y that the scale of length is always divided into six- teen (16) parts, and the scale of width always into eighteen (18) equal parts. "With the length and width scales in hand, we are now prepared to start the designing of our fundamental waist pattern. 10 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Designing of the "Fundamental Waist Pattern' TTT TTT TTT TTT Tl Z e ^ 9 9 f^ 8 O 01 II ol Fig. 3 TAILORS' SQUARE Fig. 3A TRACING-WHEEL Fig. .3 shows us a tailoriv square. Fig. 3A, a traeing- ■H-lu'cI. Both are needed for correct drawing and tracing. "Witli this tailor's square wt' ju-epare on a sheet of paper lines perpendicular to each other, as shown in Fig. 4, and mark the same A — B and A — C. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 11 B Fig. 4 Reduced to One-fourth Mark the horizontal line A — B and the vertical line A — C. A 2 81 12^ 17 19 Fig. 5 Reduced to One-fourth B 51 8i 14J Having drawn our lines perpendicular to each other, we begin to mark the points of widtli with our scale of width, along our horizontal line from A to B, as shown in Fig. .5. Using one part of our scale of width as our unit of measure, we mark off respectively 4, 8j, 1^^, 17, 19 times this distance along A — B, thus adding one unit part to our scale of width. These points we call our width points. With one part of our scale of length as our unit of measure, we proceed, according to the diagram in Pig. 5, to mark off 2, 5^, 8^, 14^ times the length of this unit from A toward C, and call these points our length points. We readily see that the length and width points vary with the size of each of the equal parts of the scale, for we must not forget that the length of these parts are 1/16 and 1 IS of their respective measurements. 12 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Next we take measurement 11. Length of front, sixteen (16) inches in the illustration, hut always the exact measurement of the lengtli of front of the model, and beginning- at the length point 2, measure this distance along A — C. Letter this point z. as sliown in the illustration. Fig. 5. Fig. 6 14.1 8^ 121 17 19 B Fig. 6 shows vertical lines drawn from the width points parallel to A — C and horizontal lines drawn from the length points parallel to A — B. The numberings of our length and width jioints are necessary only in the beginning, as an aid in memorizing these dimensions. They may later be omitted in making the fundamental pattern. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 13 In Fig. 7 we have added certain lines and points to our preceding figure, namely : 1st. An auxiliary line parallel to A — B, drawn from a point -]- inch above z. 2d. An auxiliary line parallel to A — B, drawn from the point b. Avhich is one (1) inch above the auxiliary line previously made, or Ij inches above z. Fig. 7 8i 12^ 19 51 3d. Point a. Avhich is one unit part of our scale of width from point 2. The bow line from a crossing our 5^ line and ending about half way between Si — 14-J- on the vertical line A — C, forms our front line. 4th. The auxiliary line from point 17 to 5^ gives us the back shoulder line. 5th. The auxiliary line from point 4 to the point Avhere 5i meets 19 is our front shoulder line. 6th. The auxiliary line from point e to 14J indicates to us the height of our darts or dart. 7tli. The full line extending through f — g to the z line is our center back line. 8th. The points c, one unit part of the scale of width, and d, one-half of one unit part of our scale of width, measured respectively from points wliere line 5| crosses lines 8^ and 12i. These points will be used in connection with the formation of armhole lines. 14 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. 8 shows us all the points formerly explained with the followinp- addi- tions : Fig. 8 12.1 17 19 5i 8i 14J m. B At a distance of two unit parts of the scale of width the points k and 1 are placed respectively to the left and right of the intersection of line 4 and the bottom line. These points are connected with the dart line 14^ e at line 4, and thus form our dart. The curve that begins at the auxiliary front shoulder line, passes through c. m, d. to tlie intersection of the line 5^—17 and the full 12^ line. This gives the armholc. From point 19 measure down a distance equal to one unit part of our scale of length and mark this point s. Connect 17 an(l s with a curve line, to secure the back line collar cut-out as marked in lines. From point s through points f and g, along the center back line, the dis- tance s— i equals the length of liack measurement (15 inches according to our model figure). At i we have i — j perpendicular to s — i meeting the 121- hne at j. From point i, i — o is parallel to auxiliary line b. Point o is connected with 1 by a curve wliicli passes through r. This curved line represents our front and side waist line. Point m is about one unit part of our scale of width distant from the inter- section of line 8-1 and 8i. From point m the line m— n is drawn to about the center of the lowest line'. The points need not be exactly measured, as any devia- tion to either one side or other does not aflfect the correctness of the pattern. If both are located about centrally between 81 and 12i the side effect of pattern is better balanced. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 15 In Fig. 9 we see the same lines we have mentioned in our former tigure plus the following: ig- 4 8i m 17 19 A '^~~ --..,,.. , - ' ' . s 7 2 a . •■' ~^- >- ^ ' ' ■ ' " / 1 I _,-'''• ^^ ^ ^ / _ - " "^ -^ / / ,--- ■"■ --. / H X'-'" Cj d, . t ~- ~X 1 81 . . m. • e ■■: 02 ,-' hi % / 1 14J ', 1 1 ' / 1 \ 1 1 I iiii^i- — g b 1 '> r ^^Pr — ~ z k; ...■l^. __An\ 1 ' 1 ____- , - - _ B From point a to 4 we see in about a quarter circle, in lines, our cut- out for the front neck. We also notice in lines above the front slioulder line a slight curve of ^ of an inch that e.^ctends from the S| line half way to 4. and diminishes gradually to correspond to the anatomical build of the shoulders. We observe in lines from our auxiliary line b. at u. rounded cut- outs to the line of the side front and also to the corresponding line of tlie side, which gives us the shape at the waist line. We also notice a line from our front bottom line z to point k, making tlie front dart line to k shorter than to 1. This we will explain in our next figure. The line, starting at the armhole and crossing lines 55 and 12.1- at t and extending downwards to our bottom line, in a curve, gives us tlie side line for the back. 16 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM From till' foot of our back side line we measure on line z a distance equal to one-half of the unit part of the scale of width. From this point we draw a straight construction line in lines to our back side line, which it meets about lialf way between 8| and Hi. From here we follow the back side curve to the 8^ line and thence curve to d. This gives us the side part that connects with tlie back. From u measure both right and left a distance equal to one-half a unit part of our scale of width and connect both these new found points and m with line. We note also that in lines to point v, a little rounded cut-out gives the side piece a correct curve-in at the waist line. We next extend the waist line from o to this line. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 17 Prevailing fashions dictate -whether tlie back or the side parts shonld be narrow or wide, and accordingly we either make narrow backs and wide side parts, or vica versa, as either would be correct, and would make no particular difference in the structure of the pattern. In the same way we make our front parts narrower or wider, as we shall see in our next figure. In Fig. 10 we see exactly the same as in our former figure. We have omitted all our construction lines for our fundamental pattern, and have worked instead in heavy lines. Our remarks following explain our new lines. Fig. 11 In this figure we notice at a glance that our back side line, which joins our side piece is longer at the top and shorter at tlie waist line, and that the corre- sponding side line of the side part is shorter at the top and longer at the waistline. But after cutting out our pattern we will find that both of these correspond ex- actly in their length from the top to the waist line. In Fig. 10 we find in and in lines an illustration of the making of a short "basque" and in heavy lines a longer differently shaped extension below the waist line. 18 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM From our front line, l-li, we notice in lines extending toward our end line z and beyond, a cut-out of one-half of a unit part of the scale of width diminishing towards our hip line. We find also that the dart line to k is shorter than the dart line to 1. Stretch- ing the first to the length of the second in sewing, will secure a better fit. In eases of stout figures it is of the utmost importance to make two darts instead of one, and also two side parts instead of one, to secure a better fit, and an exact division of breaking points. IIow these changes are made is described and shown in Fig. \1. From k to 1 we see our original single dart, which we have constructed in Fig. S measuring two unit parts of the scale of Avidth on each side of line 4 along base line z. Now in ]ilaee of this one dart we must construct two darts, but both of these together nuist not measure more than four unit parts of our scale of width ; that is, the exact measure of one dart. Along line z measure both to the right and left of line 4, a distance equal to one unit part of our scale of width, marki]ig points w and z. At these points draw lines parallel to line 4 to meet dart line 14^ e at p and q. Now along line z, l)oth to right and left of line 4, mark off points at distance of i a unit part of the scale of width, and connect respectively with p and q in lines. Next connect by means of lines p and q. with points that measure one and one-half (lil unit parts of th(^ scale of width from z and w. Tims we see that each of these darts measure two luiit parts of our scale of widiii. and are therefore no wider togctlie)- than one dart, which we remem!)er measures four unit parts. Now connect with lines tlie following: Dart one from the front bottom line, to liui' ] of an inch above bottom line. The second dart line of the first dart, with the first dart line of the seeond dart, from tin- bottom line to line i of an inch above bottom line. The second dart and point r. The corresponding edges of the darts are not identical in length, but nuist be stretched, as we found it was necessai-y to do in the case of the single dai-t in order to secure shapeliness in the garment. "We further see in Fig. 11 the division of the one side part of our previous figure into two side parts, which we can make narrower or wider at will. We must, however, bear in mind that the width of the cut-outs between the two side parts and the side part and front must not exceed together the width of the original side cut-out at u, which is equal to one unit part of tlu' scale of width. Fig. 12 shoM-s the basque waist line in line passing through 1, r, n, and ending in line v, and the back line which is between j and i. As we have stated before, all our jiattcrns are based on the "basque." which is the "fundamental Avaist" patt<'rii. If, however, the basque is not de- sired, we sec in the next figure how to make tlie necessary changes in the front Avaist line. PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSILM 19 Fig. 12 tions, to pr back aside In this fig-ure point x is taken eqni-distant from point A and 4 along line A — B. Now with a thread looped for a pencil, as shown in the figure by the lines, from x as the pivot point for a thread held with the left thumb, describe the heavy broken ark z, u. This gives a Avaist line which we- shall use in all future fundamental patterns. auxiliary line i inch above was of value only in the construction of the basque waist line, and may now be omitted from our future drawings. Fig. 1.3 shows a simplified pattern with many explanatory lines and lines that show deviation from the original pattern, omitted. When this pattern has been correctly drafted, according to previous instrue- . place a sheet of paper under pattern (pinning pattern and paper together event slipping), and with tracing wheel (Fig. 3) trace the front, side, and along the heavy lines. Next cut out the three separate pieces and lay the original drawing for future reference. 20 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. 13 With these separate pai'ts hiid l)eofore us we proceed to remeasure our pattern. Remarks Before Remeasuring the Fundamental Pattern Fig. 14 — 15 explain how the tliree dif- ferent parts of the pattern, front, side, and back, are placed before we are able to re- measure according to the fifteen (1.5) body measurements previously made, beginning with measure 1 and ending Avith 1.5. The measurements, 8, around the liips: 14, length of arm; 15, circumference of arm, we will find in our later diagrams. We find that in order to measure 7, height of shoulder; 10, height of front; 12, length of slioulder, and 13, around the neck, we must place the shoulder of the back to the shoulder of the front (as shown in Fig. 14 — 15), to enable us to com- pare these measurements with those previously made, putting the same back to their proper places for remeasuring all of tlie other parts. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Z] Fie. 14 *3. *5. *j *9. 12. 13. Around the bust, 18. Width of back, 6i. Around tlie waist, 13. Around the hips, 20. Width of chest, 8^ Length of shoulder. 5. Around the neck, 6^. Remeasuring the Measures of Width Li remeasuring, our pattern, -we lind siiown in Fig. li the results of the width measurements of a model with a regular 36 bust measure (IS inches half measure) to be namely: 1, around the bust, 18; 3, width of back, 6^; 5, around the waist, 12|; 9, width of chest, 8J; 12. length of shoulder, 5; 13, around the neck, 13|. If the model is perfectl.y built we will find these correct ; the slight difference which may occur in some measurements may be easily corrected, as we will show in the future diagrams. 22 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Remeasuring the Measurements of Length "\Yc liave explained the remeasurin>; of the width measures of our pattern in Fig-. 14. The same rule applies to the remeasuring of our measurements of length in Fig. 15. 2. 4. 6. 7. 10. 11. Length of back, 15. Length of side, 82. Size of armhole, 16. Height of shoulder, 33| Height of front, 21. Length of front, 16. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 23 Adaption of the Normal Pattern to So-called Slightly Changed Figures We would be making- a serious mistake to assume that every tigure is perfectly normally built; that is to say, that every tigure is built iu exactly the same pro- portion as our 36 model, given in our drawings. In most cases, however, we are able to make slight alterations which correct the slight differences that arise through the variations in proportions. In such cases we consider our figures perfect in spite of the fact that they do not come up to the standard model. The Forward Bent Figure Fig 16 shows a forward bent figure. In Fig. 17, in heavy lines, we see the regular or fundamental pattern, and in lines variations from this, necessary for the model shown in Fig. 16. Thus we see that iu cases iu which the back is somewhat bent forward, the back part must be a little longer, that the back shoulder with the neck cut-out nuist be changed, and that the front shoulder and front line must be short- ened. Such slight changes that may be necessary can easily be made if a little extra material is allowed in the seams. 24 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. 18 The Backward Bent Figure 111 Figs. 18 and 19 we .see an exactly opposite case, namely tlie backward lieiit figure. Therefore the back must he shortened by changing the neck and shoulder line, and both front shoulder and front line must be lengthened. All other necessary changes are also marked in lines, to distinguish them from the funda- mental ijattern, marked in full lines. Fig. 19 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 25 Fig. 20 The Figure with Broad Back and Flat Chest Fig. 20 shows us a wide back, and in Fig. 21 we notice in lines all the changes we have made in onr funda- mental pattern, which is shown in heavy lines. Our back, we note, has been widened, while the chest has been made proportion- ately narrower. Our shoulder lines have also been changed. 26 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fis. 22 The Figure with Full Chest and Flat Back Fig. 22 shows us a figure with full chest. In Fig. 23 we see iu lines the neces- sary changes from our fundamental pattern. We notice that the back has been made narrower and the front wider for the full bust, and that the shoulder line of the back has also been slightly changed. Fig. 23 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 27 Fig. 24 The Figure with High Shoulders Fig. 24 shows us high shoulders, and Fig. 25 the fundamental pattern in full lines, and the necessary changes in lines. We have raised the height of the shoulders of the front part as well as the hack, as they would have heen too low for this figure, according to the measurements taken We have also changed the armhole. Tlie tape measure on these three parts shows these changes clearlv. Fig. 25 28 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. 26 The Figure with Sloping Shoulders Fig. '26 sliow.s us the sloping shoulder. lu Fig. 27 we see that we have increased the slope of our shoulder lines in lines, in order to make the measurements of the height of shoulder correspond to the measurements of our model in Fig. 26. Tiu' armhole has also heen slightly altered. Fig. 27 PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTLM 29 Fig. 28 The Slender Figure Fig. 28 shows us a slender figure, in which the following measurements are longer than the normal model : the length of the back, the length of sides, the height of shoulder, the height of front, the length of front, and the length of under arm. The lines in Fig. 29. indicate the slight changes to he made in the fundamental pattern, if after re- measuring we notice that the length meas- urements of the pat- tern do not exactly agree with those of the model. In drawing our fundamental pattern all these parts will work out correctly. Fig. 29 30 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Short Built Figure Fig'. 30 slioAvs the sliort built figure, and there- fnrr the fuudinniMital pattern must lie shorter tiiau tile uornuil. In Fig. 31 the lines, marking length of back, length of sides, height of shoulder, height of front, and length of front are shorter than the full lines marking the original fundamental pat- tel'll. e no^v given the most important devia- nornnd which the pupil may encounter in actual work Avith different models, and we have tried to show how to meet these difficulties by making the cor- rect variations in our patterns. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 31 The Cutting of Lining and Material After all corrections liave been made, and our fundamental pattern has l)een changed to correspond with the measurements of our figure, we j)roeeed to the cutting of our linings and materials. In the first place we must be careful to lay out our pattern (lengthwise) on the material, as this would lie on the body if ready to wear. The iieavy lines indicate how much we have to add to these parts for seams, the width of the heavy lines being the measure. The general allowance for seams is f of an inch, except for the center Vinek. shoulders and front line, in which case we allow | of an inch. An extra allowance not shown in this pattern of 1| inches is made along the front line for a hem, buttons and button holes. On the right front, however, I of an inch of this extra allowance must be cut away in order that this front, wliich contains button holes, shall properly lap over our buttons, and thus give a centrally located front line. Fig. 32. A .shows the front, B side part, C the back of our pattern. The sleeves (which we show in our next diagram) must also lie lengthwise on our material, if we wish the grain of the material to run the same in both waist and sleeve. 32 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Constructing the Upper and Under Sleeve In Fig. 33, D — E, and Fig. 3-t, F — G, we show the construction of two differ- ent sleeves, the first a Avider one for use in jackets and outer garments, the second a narrower one for dresses, suits, etc. "We will find other sleeves in our later examples. As in our fundamental waist pattern, we first draw the lines perpendicular to each other with the "tailors' square," lettering the horizontal line A — B and the vertical line A — C. From point A, along A — B, measure the width points with the scale of width, marking off 3|, 7, SI times one unit part of the scale. Next from point A along A — C, meas- ure 2J and -i^ unit parts of the scale of width. (These first two measurements of the sleeves are always measured with the scale of width.) From point A we next measure 12, 21-1- and 23 inches along A — C. (All these points are always meas- ured in inches.) Finish the drawing of cross lines as in the diagram. The distance from f to n.is li inches, from n to d, 9| inches, making the length of the under sleeve in Fig. 33 and 34, 17 inches for our 3G model. But we miast remember that the dis- tance from f to n and n to d must always correspond to the measurements taken from the actual figure of the model. "We notice in Fig. 33 and 34 that from point over 3|- to e Ave draw a semi- circle for our sleeve ball. "We first connect points e and f with lines, then draw our curve e f with a maximum distance of -] of an inch from the lines just made. We have now the curve of the upper sleeve. From point f through n, Avhich marks the intersection of lines 7 and 12, to the intersecting point of lines 8-|- and 21-1, draw a curve for the underarm seam of upper sleeve. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 33 The heavy line connecting the last point d with the intersecting- point of lines 3-2 and 23 marks the bottom of sleeve. Connect with lines the end of bottom of sleeves and 12, for the auxil- iary onter line of npper sleeve. Next measure in from point 4| a dis- tance of ^ of an inch, marking point t. Connect o and t with a curve. From t continue in double curves, as shown in figure, to a j^oint a little below 12 in the auxiliary line before made. Make the rest of auxiliary line a heavy line. "We now have our npper sleeve and proceed to the under sleeve. In Fig. 33, D, from point a, | inch along 3^ line, above the intersection of 3^ and 2|, draw the line a — g. Point g is half way between lines A — C and 3^ on line 12. Connect g and h, which is one (1) inch along the bottom sleeve line, also with lines. Com- plete the heavy line a — h by connecting the lines just made with an elbow curve near g. This forms the outer curve of the under sleeve. Along line 4i mark with b a point halfway between 3i and 7. Connect with curve a, b. c and r, for cut- out of under arm. Note in figure that curve a — b reaches its highest point i of an inch away from line a — b. Now connecting r and n, and continu- ing along the line of the upper sleeve curve, we get the inner curve of lower sleeve. We notice lines connecting n and d which is equidistant from 7 and 8.1. This line marks a narrower nndersleeve. In Fig. 34, F and G, the following changes have been made ; In the upper sleeve, point t is one (1) inch instead of -] of an inch distant from 4J. Line t — k is parallel to o — 12, and line k — 1 passing through the inter- section of lines 21-J and 3^ meets the bottom line a trifle above 23. The elbow rounding connecting these two lines near k is the same as in Fig. 33. In the nndersleeve the lines a — g and g — h. with tlw (■ll)ow rounding near g, show the onter curve of a narrower nndersleeve. We also notice a curve along a — g, -} of an inch from i. 34 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. 35 Remeasuring the Upper and Under Sleeves As tlie arms in different models vary greatly in their development, we must be eareful in our remeasuring in order to make tlie sleeve neither too wide nor too narrow. Fig. 3") shows how 6. size of armholi', 14, length of underarm, 15, eir- cumferenee of arm, are to lie I'emeasiired. If need he. wi- lengthen or shorten the sleeve a little, as the case may he, or widen or narrow it, to make it correspond to the measurements taken. \Ye must hear in mind, however, that the measure of the top of the upper sleeve, that is the sleeve ball, together with the cut-out of the u n d e r sleeve, must a 1 w a y s be about two inches larger than the arm- hole measure taken on the model. In finishing t li e garment, the arm- hole of the waist must be stretched while the curve of the upper arm must be held in, in order to ;_;ecure ease of movement for the W e nnist add 1\ 2 inclies to the th of sleeves for ng. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 35 Fig. 36 shows oui' sleeve pattern without construct ion liiu^s. A is the upper, and J> the under sleeve. The heavy lines, f of an inch in width, uuirk the allowance for the seams. An extra 1-i to 2 inches, as before mentioned, must be allowed at the bottom for inside finishing. Fig. 36. Possible Changes in the Fashions The fashions may lujdergo changes, but we must always use the funda- mental pattern for the basis for any sleeve, as arms will always have tliL^ same shape, regardless of changes of styles. The length of shoulder may be longer or shorter, but this need not cause any difficulty, as the patterns may easily be changed to accommodate the style in vogue. Our next figures show how these changes are to be made. 36 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fie. 37 Fig. 38 In Fig. 37, A, we see the upper part of the front, side, and back of our funda- mental pattern marked in full lines. In lines we see how to make a change for a narrower front and back shoulder. Always bear in mind that the auxil- iary slioulder lines are the same, and that only the cut-out of the armliole has been enlarged, thereby forming a larger arm- hole and leaving narrower shoulders. "We readily see that we must increase the size of the arm ball, in order to be able to ease our sleeve properly into the arm cut-out of the waist. Fig. 38 shows us the fundamental sleeve pattern in full lines and the newly formed curve of the armball in lines. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 37 Fig. 39 y ^^-^ ^^ ,-'-r' y^^^ / - " " ' / ' 7 ■^ ^ 1 I-'-' // h ( "" -- ^ J \ B h \ \ i Fig. 40 Just the opposite is demonstrated in Pig. 39, B, namely the formation of a longer shoulder line. To do this, we add the desir(^d length to both our shoulder lines, along the auxiliary shoulder line. We notice that through this change of j)attern the armhole will be smaller. Therefore our armball nuist also be made smaller. Fig. 40 shows the fundamental sleeve pattern in full lines and in the lines the new curve of the armball neces- sary to make a perfect fittiiig sleeve. 38 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSl EM The Fundamental Pattern the Basis of Designing and Pattern Making Now tliat \v(> liavc mastered the drafting of our fundamental pattern we are ready to study the making of changes necessary to form patterns of shirt- waists aiiil hlouses. We shall also .see how garments may he lengthened or shortened, how the one-piece sleeve can be drafted from our previotis pattern, and how collars and cuffs witli all the multitudinous variations due to changing fashions can be made. Of course only a few problems in construction are illusti'ated. l)ut these are of such a nature that we feel assitred that the intelligence of our readers can cope with further problems through the study of tliese. We shall give tlie making of the sliirtwaist pattern first place in our illus- trations. The Shirtwaist In Its Different Forms Fig. 41 shows us a shirtwaist pattern, the making of which will be fully explained. It A\(.iuld be advisable, however, for the pupils to study Figs. 42. 43. 44, together with 41. in order to familiarize themselves Avith the changes made in front, back, side, and upper and lower sleeves. In Fig. 42 we have A — B perpendictdar to A — C. Place the fundamental pattern (in lines) in such a position that b. the shoulder point falls along A — B. and a, the neck cut-out along A — C at such an angle that c. the point of center front waist line measures two ('2) unit parts of our scale of width from d on A — ('. Note that the dart lines have been left in the pattern, but as they are of no value in our present problem, we ignore them. Our fundamental pattern now takes position e — f — e. From f measure along the c — f line prolonged, a distance to g. ecpials to one (1) unit part of the scale of width, and connect e — g, as shown in lines. We readily understand that the waist measure of the front of our shirt- waist pattern is three (3) tmit parts of our scale of width larger than that of our fundamental pattern, the extra allowance falling from d to e and f to g. From d to C measure two inches and draw u — v. parallel to d — g. which we note is our waist line. This extra length may be gathered for peplum above or below skirt. From point L a little to the right of the middle of the neck rounding a — b, draw the line L — y, to form the V-shaped neck, shown in Fig. 41. The line b — F. from the shoulder to a point lower down the front line, shows a deeper cut-out. The triangle L — ci — y, in lines and triangle b — p — F in — lines show how lapels couhl be made if desired, by bending instead of cutting the pattern along the respective lines L — y and b — F. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 40 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. 43 shows our periH-udieular A — B to A — C. "VVe place our funda- mental liaek pattern so that the neck rounding should lie at i and h, in such a position that k, our center back at the waist line, falls two (2) unit parts of our scale of width from n. We next place the side piece to the back so that the two pieces join at m, and 1 of the side piece falls at a distance of one (1) unit part of our scale of width from j. From s to and from t to r is oiu' (1) unit part of our scale of width. This extra allowance is made to give freer play for the arndiole and side, as the shirtwaist must be more roomy than the ordinary tight-fitting garment. The line X z. parallel to the waist line t — n of the fundamental pattern, is shown in line, and gives an allowance of two inches to correspond to the changes in the front. Our fundamental pattern is shown in lines and the addi- tions to the pattern in lines. In Fig. 43 we notice that we have made a one-piece pattern by joining the side and back of our fundamental pattern. The new pattern is three (3) nnit parts of our scale of width wider than the original, as explained above. If, how- ever, we Avish the back in one piece we lay our pattern just along the length- wise fold of our material. In Fig. 44 Ave see the upper and under sleeve in lines. But as our armhole in Fig. 43 has been nmde larger Ave shoAv in lines that Ave haA-e added ] inch to each of our seams in order to fit tliis changed armhole. except along the shoulders, front, and back, where :| inch is alloAved. Along the front Ave make an extra albiA\anee of Ij inches in addition to the 4 inch already allowed, to be used as facing. We Avill shoAV the construction of collars, cufifs, and (litf<'rent sleeves as Ave proceed further. In Fig. 45 AVe give an example of a Avaist with slight changes in the con- struction. otherAvise all the same measurements are to be made as in our former pattern. Thi' changes are the foUoAving: In Fit;'. 46 the neck cut-out d — f is continued to point e. Avhich is tAA'o (2) unit parts of our scab' of Avidtli from the line A — ('. This point e may be con- nected Avith g as shoAvn in lines parallel to A — (', Avhich in turn is joined to ('. If Ave cut along e — C, as shoAvn in lines, our lap-OA'er Avill slope in toward the Avaist, Avhile the otlicr way it Avill contiinu' down in a straight line, as in Fig. 45. Tliis increase. hoAvever, is only made on the right side, as only this should lap over, Tlu- extra material left in this Avay on the left side Avould be not only useless, Init in the Avay and, therefore, should be cut off. In Fig. 47 Ave see the same pattern to the waist line as given in our illus- tration. Avith the adilition of the lines on the shouder. corresponding to our front iiart. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 41 1 1 crq ^ (T . . 1 - - • ■ ' '■••.-^ > CJ- ^ ^-^ - \ \ 1 \ Cfq' : ] \ \ y y 4^ 1 / ^ '' ~ ~ ~ -J / -^ > \ -"^ ' ^^ * ^, \ ^^ — --"" 'v ■ CD crq • ^ 00 ^"e^^ ^"^ /' 5S- ^^--^.^V f ^ _:/.^ \ \ a 1 \ m □ ^ ^ ^ c ■^ ___ n m ^ ~ — ~\ □ ^ ■ \ H ^ "^ z m '~:s--—'' 31 ■■■ \ ■n ~~ ~ ~~ — — c 31 Ji' \ \ H Z • [---_ ^ ""---__ '■/ / 1 42 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig 48 shows how the front and liack part meet along tlie center shoulder, and also gives the formation of an extra shoulder strap in lines on eithei' side of the seam. The liiii's in Fig. 46 — 47 show where this strap falls on front and back to make the shoulder illustrated in Fig. 4.'i. Fig. 49 shows a Avaist with three (:■>) pleats in front and back, with a low eollar-eut in front. In Fig. "(O we observe that the neek rounding extends to n, which is one and onedialf inches (H) from o, to give the correct V shown in Fig. 49. The line f. one and one-half inches (11) from f and the lines parallel to it, indicate where the original pattern sliould be cut to give room to make the in- serts that are needed to form the pleats. These inserts are i of an inch in width in the pattern, but may be increased or diminished according to the width of the ]deats desired. Fig. 51 shows how our iiattern cut with the extra allowance appears. The heavy line represents the fold, while the and lines on cither side are brought together, and the pleat stitched along the lines. Fig. 52 shows the back pattern with lines marking places for ]ileats to nmtch the front. This pattern is increased exactly in the same fashion as the front. Fig. ■").'! shows us a waist with a yoke, which can be nuide in front and back, or on either side only. Our figure shoMs pleats, but this fullness could be gathered instead, both in front and in the Ijack. The sleeve shown in this figure has a wide bottom curve, but could be made differently, as will be shown later. In Fig. 54 the line to e shoAvs the neck cut. The 111,,, Y — /„ the line s — f and the line v — x — f indicate the cut for tile tlii'ee different styles of yokes, nanu'ly the deep, the shorter, and the <'Ui'\'e(l yoke. Tile jiarallel =^= lines i — g. an inch above v — z, indicate the deep \-oke position after proper liending in of niati'rial along both cut edges for seams. The short vertical lini's mark the pleats. Fig. 55 shows the back with the i-elative yoke cuts; o — 1, the deep, in — lines: c — 1, the shorter, in -• lines, and h — t in lines, the curve that is necessary to form a point at the center back, if desired. We must not forget in Figs. 45, 49, 53, to nnd^e the allowance mentioned in connection with Fig. 41, namely f of an inch for side seams, '} of an inch for shoulder, center of the back and front, 11 inches in addition to the above men- tioned 5 of an inch along the front for facing, and 2 inches for extra length be- low tlie waist line. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 43 44 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 45 1 /^^^^--^.~-.________^-rrx 1/ ~ ' \^ 1 /' ^ \ 1 ' •** • \ c^L ^^ ^ N^^^S^jJ;. * '0 "" -^^^^^^t f r« / \ \ ^^\^ / ° en ^ fr .- ^^~~~-~^ - ~ ~ ~ ~- y' »>^ *^ / y ^^-—^:r^^ --/' —> PI .^ >/ ^^.^^^^^^^ / 1 <^^^^^^^ / ,^^»^^ I C/5 ^ ._ \ \ .-.^-"""'T/'' ! 1 i 1 ' ' \ ' • \ , ! \ / ( 1 ^ /' 1 1 . \ ?. ,'-' : ', i '%;-._ rn- 1 ^ ^ ^ 1 ' / 1 ' ' 1 ' > 1 ' 1 1 . ; n • ' t , ' . 1 o ' 1 : \ ^ ni 1 h-A • ; iTO On ! ' ^ / 1 1 m 1 1 i cn ! g ' • ; 00 , a / • \ H 1 ' ; • \ 1 I / : \ 1 . \ 1 \ / ■ ' \ . 1 ; ; \ 1 1 \ 1 ' / ■ ' \ • 1 / ; / \ 1 ^ i 1 ' / ^ : V c^ ' , \ I ,J ^ " ^ _ / ~~ - ^ ' / ___—"' ^-^-> B 3 sL.r-:::. X 46 PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. 56 shows us an upper and under sleeve of our fundamental pattern reduced to one-eighth of full size. The two parts are placed in such a position Avith reference to tlie liorizontal line A — B, that the points 8 and H are each 3J inches from the axis A — B. In the figure the full lines show the original sleeve pattern, while the lines indicate the allowance necessary to make the sleeve fit the en- larged armliole of tlie shirt waist. The lines a , u , and w mark tlie different sleeve lengths and widths tliat may be desired. Fig. 57 shows us the a.xis line A— B, and the original fundamental sleeve pattern in lines. In full lines we see the addition made to widen the sleeve pattern in the upper part, to conform with tlie Avider armhole of the waist. The sleeve pattern has been so placed that tlie distance of tlie points s and s from the central axis A — B is Si inches. The point c and e can be placed higher or lower as desired, if the sleeve is made in eitlier of these styles. Fig. 58 shows us the center line A — B, and our fundamental upper and undersleeves. in lines. Tlie points s— s are respectively 34 inches from the center line. The line from L to s is parallel to our central line A — B, and is to be used only as the dividing line of the upper sleeve. It is shown here to demonstrate the fact that the width of tlie one-piece sleeve at the bottom, is equal to tlie bottom width of upper and under sleeve together; that is, the dis- tance s — X equals tlie distance s — r. In the undersleeve we cut away the part beyond curve a — r. but we must add the curve f — t, equal to o — a. to the upper sleeve, to give the correct arm measure. The point t is connected with x. which is the same distance from s as r. We have now a one-piece shirt waist sleeve which may be gathered at the liottom or made shorter for an attached cuff. Collar Construction We are now prepared to consider the construction of different styles of collars. The construction of a collar always depends upon the cut-out or lapel of tlie garment. For a collar which will fit perfectly a low cut neck, will never fit a higher cut garment. We must therefore always consider how deep or high the cut-out of our garment will be. in order to make a perfect fitting collar, as we shall see in the accompanying figures. Fig. 59 illustrates the formation of different collars, suitable for shirt waists and dresses. The front and back pieces of the fundamental pattern have been placed shoulder to shoulder for the construction of onr collars. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 47 o- n- m c n m ^ QTQ z m • ■n o o n- 48 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM In the front pattern the line a — 1) I'epresents tlie pointed cut-out of the neck, and the sluuled in triangle that part tluit is either eut otf or bent back to form a lapel. Now following- the neck rounding, along the neck cut-out a — b, from b to g in lines, from g to 1 in lines and 1 to e, the center back, in lines, we see one collar pattern. Another can be traced from b to f in = = == lines, from f to i in lines, and from i to e in ._. — lines. Still another follows the curve l.i — <1 = = = = lines, d to e and e to c in lines. If. however, the turn back lapel is desired, the collar must be dififerently shaped in tlie front. We notice one that, including the lapel in front, follows the point of this in lines to f, then proceeds from f to i in lines and i to c along the same lines as one of the collars previously con- sidered. A differently shaped one starts from the lapel point to f in and up to i and c and one in -■ lines to t — e and from e to c, the center bar!;. Fig. 60 shows us more plainly that a collar which perfectly fits a high cut neck will never fit a lower eut-out, or visa versa. We notice in this figure a very low neck cut from a to b, which is bent over for the lapel, as indicated in shaded lines, if desii-ed. From 1) in to c, we see a shawl collar rounded in the back or pointed to d. In this case no lapel is necessary. Another style follows a — b. and then proceeds along the lapel to the point, and from there in ^ ^ ^ ^ lines to i, and in •- lines to e. Here also there is no extra lapel. A dif'fci'eiit one is seen extending from 1i in lines to 1 — g and f. Still another shape ean be ti'aeed from 1) in lines to j. and from there in lines to h and e. If we make a collar from a to the point of the shaded lapel, and from there in lines to k, through j to h, over i to e, we cannot fail to observe that this collar will not fit a high neck. In Fig. 61 the neck cut-out from a to b is shown in lines. Start- ing at b in =■ = ■=:■= lines to c — e — f, and i, we have a collar with many points. We show another from b in :::::::: lines to d, from there to j, and then in lines to 1. A smalliM- collar can be traced from b in =■=•=•= to c and in lines to r and n. A collar rounded in front and square in the liack is shown starting from b in lines over the rounding to h and 1. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 49 Fig.62 POCKETS Reduced to One Fourth 50 PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTEM Pockets lu Fig'. 62 we give several styles of pockets, and iu the lowest row three different styles of pocket laps. In the first row we see the finished pockets a, b and c, and below, indi- cated by the same letters, the patterns for these pockets. The little rounding at tlu' top of tlie finislied pockets we can easily make ))y cutting, as .shown in the un- finished pocket. But we can also make the same straight along tlie top, if we so desire. d. e and f are finished pockets, and below, designated by the same letters, are patterns for the same. The finished pocket e is gathered, and the =----=== lines in the pattern show the place of gathering. In Fig. 62A we see how we find the position of the pocket, that is where it belongs iu the jacket, skirt, or dress. In full lines Fig. 62A shows us a front of a jacket, and in lines we see an upper sleeve pattern placed with the higliest point of the arndiall to the lowest point of our front shoulder seam. The pocket is then placed about two (2) inches above the lower end of the full length sleeve. Cuffs and Sleeves In Fig. 63 we again show different sleeves and cuffs, and again demon- strate the cutting of a one-piece sleeve from a two-piece one. In this figure, a — b — e, and d, show us four sleeves in one piece (as shown in Fig. 58). The cuff's used here are constructed as shown in cuff's a — b — d. The tops of the upper cuff' are cut respectively as a — b and c, in the figure. The construction lines E — T — R. from the lower to the upper cut. are one (1) inch apart to give the necessary fiare needed, so that the upper cuff should not lie flat over the lower one. p^lo-. e — g — h shows three dift'erent cuff's, of which we show the construc- tion under e — g — h. Tlie uudersleeve in this pattern is marked in lines and the upper sleeve in full lines. Tlie sleeves are placed with under arm seams joining. Cuff' — in full lines is the pattern for cuff' e. The same pat- tern, but pointed at the top, as shown iu e — g — li, is used for cuff h. In the same figure, partly in full and partly in lines, is the pattern for g. This cuff has its seam in the center of the under sleeve and therefore extends from F to F beyond. The construction of sleeve f— i— k is illustrated iu Fig. f — i— k. The dotted curves from r to s, through A — B. show the required shape for bell shaped portion of sleeve f. The heavy dotted lines added to our upper sleeve su])ply tlie extra width necessary to make tlie three (3) tucks shown iu f. Sleeves i and k. about identical with Fig. 57, are widened in the upper sleeve in the same way as sleeve f. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 51 52 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting of a Circular Skirt Pattern A skii't cau be made in one, two, three or more pieces, but tlie width of the bottom depends npon prevailing fashion. First we will endeavor to show how to cut a pattern for a circular skirt. Remember that all skirts are cut and rcuieasured in inches, as taken on the model for wliom they are intended. We have shown previously in Fig. 12 and 13, how the waist line is con- structed, and we recall that we had made this with a piece of thread held with the thumb of the left hand, and a pointed pencil looped througli the thread forming the arc. Witli the tailors' square we form the perpendicular A — B to A — C as shown in Fig. 64. On line A — B mark point x 2 inches from A. On line A— C mark point a eighteen (18) inches from point A. Seven (7) inches from a, mark f, the starting point of the liip line. Next holding the tliread circle maker at x, Avith the left thumb, with the point of the pencil start at a and mark oft' arc a — e for the waist line. Form the hip line f — g in the same manner. We next proceed to build our pattern from the measurement of the model previously taken. In Fig. 64 our model measurements are used. Length of skirt. :;{6 inches in front. Lengtli of side. 36^ inches. Waist measure, 26 inches. (13 inches one-lialf of tlie measure). Length of back, 37 inches. Hip measure, 40 inches. (20 inches onc-lialf of the measure). From a along a — C measure the front length of tlie skirt (36 inches in the figure.) P^rom a, in a curve along tlie waist line, measure one-half around the waist measure (i:> inches in the figure "i. marking the point e. Along tlu' hip line from f. mark oft' at g onedialf of the hip measure (20 inches in the figure). The point c, eciiiidistant from a, and e, marks the starting point of our side line, as this line is invariably lialf way between tlie center front and the center back. As we liave licfore mentioned, the skirt widths vary with fashion's dictates. We use for our model here a bottom width of two and one-half (24) yards, and lati'r show how this may be increased or diminished. From C which marks the length of the skirt at the center front, measure along a slight curve a distance of 22} inches, or one-half the width of the half skirt, marking the point n. From n in this way rei^eat this measurement to i. PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 53 54 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Connect e with n, and e and g- witli i. Tliese lines give us respectively the side line and center liack of our skirt. Along the si to A — ('. Fi-om A we measure four inches to a, along A — C, and from a, the point just made mark oft' at C a distance equal to the length of the front. Next from a. in a slant along A — B mark off at e a distance equal to one- half around the waist measure (13 inches in the illustration). Connect a — e with lines, and mark the center of this line o. As the width of this skirt is identical -witJi that of Fig. 65. our method of procedure to secure propi'r length of side, of back and lower sweep is the same as previously given. Fr(un point o, measure on a perpeiidii'ular 2 inches to c. Connect a and e through c, with a curve to form the waist line. As the body curves in in the center back at the waist line, it is necessary to make a small cut-out from the straiglit length of the back. In Fig. 66 below e, tills is indicated as a V between tlie dotted and the heavy line. On either side of the line marking the length of side o, c, n, we see the lines nuirked by r and s at the l)ottoin of the skirt, meeting one an- other at the hip line. If the skirt is made in two parts these lines indicate how it is possible to make the skirt narrower. From the hip to the waist line, a small triangle is shown meeting the waist line on(>-half of an incli on either side of c. This triangle shows the part to be eliminated in case the skirt is made in two parts, in order to insure a perfect fit. Tims we find that our curved waist is made exactly l:-! inches, by the cut-out of one (1) inch at c, and of one-half (^) of an inch at e. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 55 Both of our illustrations 64 and 66 could be cut in one or two pieces. If cut in one piece, the lengtli of front is placed on the fold of the nuiterial. If cut in two pieces, both front and back are placed on the fold and as a result the two bias pieces meet at the sides. Care must be taken to tape both of these seams, to prevent sagging of the material. Fig. H shows a belt in the heavy lines. Two pointed yokes in different shapes are marked in and lines. These are formed ou the same principle as Fig. 66. sFig.66 Fig. H \ \ -V ■ ~ ~ 56 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting of the Gored and Pleated Skirt "We iK.'xt lU'iiioustratc thv desiguiny and cutting of the gored skirt, and the ])lrated skirt. In order to be able to divide tlie widths of our gores in proper ]ii-oportions we must decide upon tlie width of the skirt ai'ound tlu= bottom. Pig. 67 sliows a four-gorinl skirt measuring two and one-ludf (2i) yards around tin' Ixittom. Tlie gores slunv they are cut from nuiterial .')() inches wide. This skirt consists of a front piece cut on the fold, a side part, and a back part cut on the fold. The same is sliglitly gathered. We mention again that all skirt patterns are cut from measurenu'nts taken from our figure, and are without seam or hem allowance, which must be added in cutting the goods. Fig, 6SA shows A — C perpendicular to A — B, From A along liue A — C mark points e — r — s, three-fourth (f ) of an inch apart. Fi'om s measure ofl the length of the front along A — C to the dotted auxiliary line (36 inches in the illustration). From this line measure J of an inch to ('. From C" unvisure 16 inches to i on the auxiliary liue. Tins gives us the half of tlir bottdiii -width of the front gore, as tlie center front is laid on the fold of the material. Along A — B nu^asure 6 inches from A marking point o. Connect o and i. From i — o along r measure in to E a distance of 1-^ inches. Connect s E with a curved line, Fi'om the hip point u make the rounding u E, The waist line s E measui'e 4^ inches. Fig. 6S, B shows m — n parallel to< A — C, Measure 16 inches from n to ,i and li inches fi-om ni to g, (^'oiuiect g and j. The cut-outs from m to E and from g to E are H inches each, or 'S inches together. Thus our waist liue from E to E measures 4,^ inches. Fig. 6S, C shows h — k parallel to A — B, The bottom line from k to 1 is 14 inches. From h to t. a cut-out of 11 inches is made, which leaves 12} inches for tlie waist liiu' of the back gore. This width we gather to one-third, which gives us a waist measure of 4 inches. If we add tlie waist measures of the dif- ferent gores 4.^ inches, plus 4i inches, plus 4 inches, our total half waist measure is 13 inches, which we find correct for this model, AVe notice that all our cut-outs at the waist line in Fig, 68 A — B — C are made fi'om u. This point is the hip liue 7 inches below the Avaist line. We ol)serve also that the bottom of gores A and B are rounded to the auxiliary lines, and the Imck gore is left straight on the bottom. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 57 t/i-n^ X m a c n From- E -To- 11 -Same as From- e -To -j - . Length of Sides ..sy. CR FROM-t- TO -l^- SAME AS FROM- E-TO- j - n CENTER Length of Back on ^a 58 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Tlie sides of patterns A — B — C are marked to sliow joining seams, wliich are the same length as shown in the figures. The ■- lines in B indicate the line along which we remeasure the length of side. The short parallel lines in C indicate gathers. Fig. 69 shows us practically the saun' etit'ect skirt, the oidy difference being that Fig. 67 and 68 gave a four-gored skirt, whereas this is a skirt in six gores. This change is partly due to fashion and jiartly to thi' fact that the material is too narrow to permit cutting a wider pattern without jiiecing. The perpendicular A — B to A — C and tJie measurements from A to e — r — s, and the lengths from A to C, m to n, x to a, anil li to k, aiT unchanged. The bottom of the skirt is 2:i yards wide, there being 20 inches each in front and back gores. l>otli of whicli are laid on folds, and 10 inclu'S in each of the side gores (the two in the pattern are cut double we must remember). This gives us a total of SO inches, about 2j yards for the bottom of the skirt. At the top of Fig. 70. A, from A to o is 4 inches, in B, from m to g 6 inches, in C, from x to z 6 inches, and in T). fi'om h to B 10 inches. The cut-outs — u — E. g — u — E. m — u — E. x — u — E. z^u — E and h — u — t are each 1] inches in width. Adding the front and side waist line nn_-asurements we get 9 inches. This plus the back gore gathered to four inches, gives IS inches for half of the waist measurement. Further Ave observe the lines from w to k, in pattern D. which we foIloAv sliould Ml- desire to leave out the gathering in the back, and make a fitting back. Fig. 71 shows a plaited skirt. There plaits can be made closer together or farther apart as desired. Fig. 72 from A to B gives a pattern of a plain plaited skirt. The center front fold forms a box plait, with the plaits on both sides facing tin- back. Fig. 73 shows l)ox plaits wiiich can lie jilaced closei' oi- farther apart as desired. In the next few lessons we will show how to diangc our fundamental waist pattern, to one witli seams running to the shouldiT botli in front and back. We will also endeavor to show how to make a variety of dresses by combin- ing different skirts and waists. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 59 From- J^ -To -t- Same as From E-To-C- Cente „ Length of Back on Fold D3 60 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM ■PQ anoj NO d3i.N30 -< \.... bJD N - anod NO >i3j.Na3 X . h X o u z CO 2 bJDa -U -c/i PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 61 Changes from the Fundamental Pattern to a Pattern Seamed to the Shoulder in Front and Back Fig. 76 shows a skirt with a yoke pointed in front, and a waists with seams to the shoulder both in front and back. These seams take the place of the usual dart, and extend entirely to the shoulder, thereby giving a longer line effect. Fig. 74 shows the perpendicular A — B to A — C, the fundamental waist pat- tern in full lines, the former basque front in lines a — e, and the front line of the dart in lines from j. From point i on the shoulder line, Avhieh is two unit parts of our scale of width distant from the armhole, connect i — j in lines for a construction line. Then draAv the slightly bov.'-shaped line i — j, in full lines, so that o is one- half (i) of an inch to tlic left of the eonsti'uction line. Connect o and the second dart with a slight rounding. Cutting along the full lines we have now divided our front into two pieces with seams reaching to the shoulder. Fig. 75 illustrates the formation of a back pattern with seams reaching from the waist to the shoulder. The fiuidamental shirt waist back connected with side part pattern is shown in full lines. The line t — s is the basque back, originally made. The — lines indicate the joining of side and back of the original basque to from the one-piece shirt waist back. From point h on the shoulder line, two unit parts of the scale of width from the armhole, draw h — g in lines. Next draw the full line h — g, curved about one-half (1) of an inch slightly to the right. Connect the former side lines with this line, as high up as it formerly reached in the arm rounding. Cut- ting along this line will give ns a two-piece back with a seam from the shoulder to the waist. In both Fig. 74 and 75 the waist extends only to the waist line. We must add about two inches to this length in order to properly connect waist and .skirt, and to finish neatly. As mentioned before we must allow for all seams. For the proper lapping of buttons and button holes, in the front we must have an additional allowance or provide a separate piece for facing. We must also mention here that the point of the cut-out of the neck, is invariably the point where the collar starts. In Fig. 77 we shoAV a dress Avith yoke in front and back, and plaited both in front and back below the yoke. This is a combination plaited skirt, and bodice made from a shirt Avaist pattern, Avith collar as desired. The bodice and skirt are joined at the Avaist line to the belt of the skirt. Fig. 78 is a plain skirt and shirt Avaist. extended to the desired length. The belt reaches twice around the Avaist line, and ties in front. Fig. 79 is a dress made from a shirt Avaist pattern and a plain skirt joined at the Avaist line. The belt ties in front, and a pocket is placed on the right side. Fig. 80 is also a combination of a simple shirtAvaist and a plain skirt. It is made Avith a belt pointed in front and can have any desired collar shoAATi in Figs. 59, 60, 6L 62 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM CQ PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 63 64 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Arranging the Fundamental Pattern for Suits, Jackets and Outer Garments As wo all know a ladies' suit consists of a skirt and jacket. In this chapter we will consider the changes necessary to plan a suit using our funda- mental pattern. Our shirtwaist pattern as previously shown, will give any kind of loose jacket with plaits or shirrings in front, or in the back, or in both of these parts. In Fig. Si we give a jacket of a suit, which resembles Fig. 74, the only difference being that the pattern in Fig 74 is constructed only to the waist line, while Fig. 81 is made to the hip line. All explanations and measurements are the same as previously given. A REDUCED TO ONE FOURTH C o c O 111 C PARISIAN LADIES' lAILORING SYSTEM 65 We notice also in Pig. 81 a piece marked front facing-, wliicli is a dnplicate of the front part, but is only 2iV inches wide. To this we must make all additions from A to C as exijlained with reference to the front in Fig. 74. Fig. 82 shows ns the side and back part put together the same as in Fig. 75, but instead of drafting the pattern to the waist line, we continue it to the hip line. In Fig. 75 the side part, as we notice, extends from h to z at the waist line, and the Avidth of the back at the Avaist line from g to r, that is to say, that the back from h to t is just as wide as from g to r with a little curving in be- tween. B u Hyp w Reduced to One Fourtfh -ine A t C We notice in Fig. 82 the construction line connecting h — 1. The point 1 could be brought either to the i-ight or left of its present l^osition. without aft'ecting the shape of the pattern. Its position deter- mines the narroAvness of tlie back at line thus making our back smaller at the waist line. The distance 1 — x. our cut-out, is equal to g — z. From x draw the heavy curve parallel to z — • h meeting the back about at the same height as formerly, and form- ing a new side line which folloAvs the exact curve of the other, x and 1 are connected with w at the hip line. We notice noAV that the pattern is broad across the shoulder blade in the back and curves in to a narrow waist line. Through this change the side part is Avider than formerly. Fig. 81 and 82 shoAV a jacket seamed from the slioulder both in front and back, extending to the liip line, or any length desired. This in coiniection Avith a skirt gi\'es us a tAvo-piece suit. Sleeves, pockets, cuffs, and suitable collar, are in ac- cordance Avith explanation previous- ly made. Before Ave jDroceed any further, hoAvcA'er, Ave Avill consider the mak- ing of tailor-made collars. 66 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting of Collars for Tailored Suits and Cloaks 111 Fig'. 83 "we see a standing collar M"itli a pointed or roniided top. Tile diagrams a and b are the same except that a is rounded, and b pointed in I'ront. Otlierwise. as we notice, they have the same measurements. In a and li there are two sets of auxiliary lines placed two inches apart. The distance between the two lines in each set is i of an inch. The length of these lines is the half h'ligtli of the collar, namely 60 inches. We see in the pattern how the collar is shap(Ml around them. In a. wr notici' that a rounding is made in front and in b, that :,' of an inch on each half collar has been a(bled in front for buttons and buttonholes. Fig. d and i- sliow a poinfrd and a roundi'd collar. Diagrams c and d explain how these are made. The center line is 2i inches from the base, and the top 2 inches from this center line. The rounded upper cut-out is connected Avitli the upper curve of the stand- ing collar, and as botli are the same width, they will fit exactly leaving the extra allowance free for buttons and Intttonholes. Diagram e, presents a front with a la]iel and a tailored turn-down collar in lines. In full lines we see how the collar appears turned over in po- sition. In liiii-s we see an allowance oi 11 inehes for lapping in front. An extra front facing must also lie cut for the garment. For collar pattern e, draw line A — O S^ inehes long. Line U is placed J of an inch below A — 0, parallel to it, and line I) paralbd to A — li inches above it. The perpendicular E is drawn 51- inches to the left of A. Point N on line U is half way lietweeii and E. From N draw curve N — A meeting — A half way between E and A: tliis gives the bend of tlic i-oljar. The collar is completed by connecting O and T. and O and D, with eur\'cs as s]lo^^•n in the figure. At tli(> center liardv we notice a triangular cut whi<-h gives the collar the correct shape if made in two pieces. If however, the collar is cut in one, on a fold at 1) — A — U, the lower portion N — A — V must be pressed in. while tlie upper part X — O — D — A must be strrtcheil. to secure the jiroper rounding needed for a good tit. Fig. f, shows the same coat with a shawl eollar. In the working diagram f, A — O is 10' inches long, E 5i inches from A. U J inches below — A, and D Ti inehes above it. The lower curve on is the same as in Fig. e, previously shown. The curve O — D crosses line E about -J inch from the top. The same principle applies to the shaping of this eollar at the center back as previously explained for Fig. e. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 67 Fig. 8 3 COLLARS. Reduced to One Fourth — _ J f E ^ 1 ^^^^^ N ^^ E ---, ^^^ \ N^' ■ Reduced to One Sixth 68 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM In diagi-ain g. Ave see the same collar as exijlaiued in e, except that here the lapel as well as the collar is rounded. Diagram h, shows iis the same as diagram e, but we see in lines that we have added a piece at the neck cut-out. to get a longer and more pointed lapel. The collar is the same as in e. In cutting our front facing we must not omit this extra piece, in order to make it correspond with h. Fig. 84, A shows a tailor-made jacket, IS inches long which can also be used for a suit coat. It is tight fitting and has turned back cufifs. and high turned-down collar. 84 F, shows the fundamental front 'lattern with darts in lines. There is also a line marking the seamed front from the dart lines to shoulder. Either front can be used for the pattern. The cut-out for the neck in the fi'ont is always the starting point of the collar. G shows thr side, and II tin' back of the fundamental pattern in lines. TIu' waist lini' in F — G and II is marked with lines, and the hip with lines. Along tlie center back in H we notice below the waist line a tlap one inch wide for the slit if we intend to make one. All parts of Fig. 84 F — G and II are without scams which we must add: one and one-half (II) inch in front and an extra facing as explained in Fig. 81 being needed. R and N are the patterns of the two-piece sleeve used in this jacket. Fig. 85 shows an IS-inch jacket semi-iltting in back and loose in front. N is a pattern of a front facing, and F — G and II show the fundamental pattern to the waist line in lines with collar and lapel likewise so marked. F shows tile right angle cutting through the starting point of the collar and the extra inch and one-half added in front. As the distance of two inches, from the fundamental pattern to the iiei'iiendicular is also allowed in accordance with previously given patterns, we readily see how we secui'e the loose front shown in A. In II the back piece, the same allowance of two inches at the Avaist line, which has previously lieen explained, gives the looser back. D is a pocket. O a enlf, and R a collar, tlie measurements for which liave lieen previously explained in Fig. 8.3 e. Fig. 86, A shows a loose jacket to be used either for a suit or coat. It is 18 inches long, extending 10 inclies below the waist line. Our illustration is made with belt and pockets. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 69 R / I N / ' / / ; / / / / / / / / Fig. 84 I •-• I ' ) \ ; \ / \ / . y- ■ ]• * I I Reduced to One Sixth 70 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM We see in F and 6 the fundamental pattern to the waist line in lines and as this garment is cut on the order of a waist, we have added two (2) unit parts of our scale of Avidth at the waist line in front and an extra allowance for buttons and liuttonholes. The tailored lapel and collar begin at the neck cut-out; the lines show how these look Avhen finished. In G we have allowed one unit part from the armliole to the waist line, down the length of this garment as exjilaiucd in former constructions and as we have made the seamed front, F and G must each be cut separately. H and D are also separated by the seam from the shoulder, and the lines in H show the allowance necessary to conform with the waist pattern. D, which is a straight back, should be cut on the fold at the center back. In R and N the upper and nndersleeve patterns, we notice in lines the allowance of |- of an inch on each seam made in the upper parts of the sleeve to conform with the allowance in the armhole of the side piece. Fig. 87, A shows a semi-fitting jacket which could also be used for a suit coat. The front and back are seamed to the shoulder, and the pointed lapel is larger than previously shown. In F in lines we have the fundanu'ntal pattern to the waist line. At the neek cut-out, the addition for the pointinl and larger lapel, I of an inch in width is marked by lines slanting in from the collar to the waist line. The bottom front can be cut either sqiiare or rounded as illustrated. G shows the regular pattern, and both F and G are cut separately as indi- cated by the seam in the front. In 11 and I the lines show side and liack pattern joined and also the construction of the l)aek narrowed in at the waist line. AVe see also the upper and under sleeves of the regular fundamental pat- tern and a small replica of the tailor-made collar, the measurements and the con- struction of which are given in Fig. 83 e. The pattern for the upper and lower parts of the two-piece sleeve is also given. Fig. SS shows a double brea.sted jacket with a plain turned-down collar composed of the standing collar of Fig.SU h. and the turned-down portion of Fig. 83 d. In F in lines to tlu' waist line we have the fundamental pat- tern. N to the lines shows the usual addition from the collar jjoint a. The distance between these lines and the line marks an addi- tional allowance of 2^ inches for the double-breasted effect. N is cut in one piece with F. 6 is cut separately. A front facing as shown in Fig. 81 must also be made. If tlie double-breasted effect is desired the additioiud allowance of 2h inches as previously explained must also be made to the facing. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 71 1 D r R- '%rjj ^ r" Nl — ; — r ~j - - - _ — ; Fig.85 Reduced to One SiXTH 72 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Reduced to One Sixth PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 73 74 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM II and I again show the fundamental patterns phieed in tlieir relatively positions in lines, but each of these parts is cut separately as indicated liy the lines. Furthermore we notice from the waistline downward in F, H and I an extra allowance of 2-^ inches outlined Avith lines slanting from the waist line, for a ripple or flare in the back as shown in Fig. B, should we desire the same. Any of the patterns formerly shown could Vie used for a garment of any length by simply prolonging the pattern to the length desired. Fig. 89. F shows a long cloak with turned down collar, large pockets, deep cuffs and belt. The diagrams A and T show in line and in line the fundamental pattern to the waist line, and in heavy lines the usual addition from the ai'mhole to the waist at the side. From A the neck point we see the addition to the front to G. The lower front piece A is cvit in one with the front waist, and measures along the bottom 24 inches from G to H. T is cut separately, and is 15 inches wide both at the top and l)ottom. The distance between the lines and in lines the from the second dart downward is the allowance for the seam. We see tliat T extends i inch above the Avaist line, and that J of an inch is allowed on the fundamental waist pattern from the second dart down. These allowances are for seams. • The short lines along R — indicate that this part should be gathei'ed to the width of the front side piece. In C we see in one piece marked in lines, the back and side with the addition at the waist line as in the shirtwaist pattern, and also with the ad- dition from the armhole to the waist along the side. This pattern is cut on the fold as shown, and measures 21 inches along the bottom from T to V. E and N show the regular fundamental sleeve in fidl lines, and in lines tin:' ad- dition made to fit the enlarged armhole. The = = === lines mark a length of 48 inches from the neck, the full length of pattern being 54 inches. The collar of this coat could be cut in two pieces according to Figs. S3 b and 83 d. or after pattern II Pig. 89. In H we have a one-piece turned down collar. F and E are parallel to S at the respective distances of 2^ and 3^ inches. R and F are each 15 inches long and connected as shown in the figure. P'rom points '[ of an inch from each end of F perpendiculars are drawn to E in lines, making E 131 inches long the correct collar measurement. The lines from F to E show a possible cut for a collar if desired. The extra pieces ■; of an inch on each side between F and S. serve as allowances for liutton and buttonholes. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 75 76 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 77 78 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The bottom curve below S gives a better fitting collar and allows a freer ueck movement. We could cut this coat in a different fashion. The entire upper portion could be cut to the waist line and tlie lower portion to R, and the part from H to G could also be separate pieces. Fig. 90. R shows a double-breasted coat with pockets, cuffs, belt and a standing collar to which a sailor collar is attached. F shows the front facing, and S and O the two pieces in lines. We have also the regular fundamental pattern with the addition to the waist line. At the neck cut-out, we notice in lines along the length the regu- lar addition foi- buttons and buttonholes, and in full lines 2J inches from C to R the addition for the double-breasted coat. The upper waist portion is extended below the waist line from E to S, and the lower part extended above the waist line, to E — S. These two addi- tions are necessary for the seam allowance. The garment measures 251 inches along the bottom from R to P. AVhile the additional piece measures 6 inches at the top from E to S and lOJ inches along the liottom from P to C. Diagram Y shows the addition to the fundamental pattern in lines. The back and side parts are cut together. They extend i inch below the waist line, this being tlie allowance for the seam. L is cut on the fold i of an inch higher than the waist line to allow for the seam. The bottom from L to F measures 25 inches. We notice that L is gathered at the top from the center of the back to the center ]iack seam. ]M and I show the regular sleeves in full lines and the addition for the wider armluile in lines. This coat is 36 inches from the waist to the bottom, or 54 inches through the entire front length. The :=^== Hues are 6 inches from the bottom. Fig. 91. R shows a single-breasted coat seamed to shoulder in front and back with lapel and tailor-made collar, and attached cuffs. E shows the front facing and L and G tlie two pieces of the front, the addition in front being allowed for buttons and buttonholes. N is the side part, and the back, whieli is cut on the fold as indicated, is marked A. d. b and m show the construction of the cuff. In all five pieces of this pattern we notice the lines wliich indicate where to cut this pattern, should we desire a 42-ineli length coat, the whole length being 54 inches. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 79 m Front Facing 80 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 81 Along the bottom the widths are as follows : From R to L 15 inches, from L to F 16| inches, the side part from A to T 15 inches, and the back from E to M 7| inches. Thns the half width of this garment will measure 54 inches, and the Avhole sweep of the coat will be 3 yards. Fig. 92, G shows about the same coat in double-breasted effect. H is the front facing, T and R the seamed front parts, A and E the seamed side and back pieces, the latter of which is cut on the fold. The length of this coat is 54 inches to the bottom, or 48 inches to the = ^ = = lines, but it could be made any length desired. The width of the bottom is as follows : 16^ inches from F to 0, 164 inches from L to C, 13 inches from A to R, and 10| inches from S to B. a and b show the regular fundamental sleeve, and c the regular tailor- made lapel collar. The lines mark a collar deeper in front and wider in back, and the lines one still wider both in front and back. We again wish to impress the fact that all our patterns are made without seams, and these therefore must be allowed for either in cutting the pattern or in cutting the material. f of an inch allowance should be made for all seams unless otherwise stated. At the shoulders, the back center seam (if cut in two pieces) and along the front, f of an inch is required. Along the front an extra allowance must be made for facing. When heavy weight material is used for jackets and "coats, it is necessary to make an additional allowance of ^ of an inch at all seams to take care of the extra bulk of material. 82 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting of All Kinds of Capes According the Fundamental Pattern Fig. 9o, W shows us a cape wiiich we can make any desired length. Fig. 93 shows in lines the front and back of the fundamental pattern laid along A — B and A — C. These lines are made with the tailors' square perpendictdar to each other as previously explained. A Fig. 93 B ,i4 OQ 1^— ^ s ' \ I •. I I \ Front '■\ REDUCED TO One fourth Vd- PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 83 The front neck cut-out is placed along A — C in such a way, that tlie waist line d is two unit parts of the scale of width from A — C. Tlie shouhler line of tile back meets the shoulder line of the front at its lowest point, and the neck cut-out of the back lies along A — B in such a position that the waist line u is two unit parts of the scale of width from A — B. We next connect a, the highest point of the front shoulder line with c, the highest point of the side armhole in line ; as shown in Fig. 93, and '-N, ■ "^^ prolong this line to e. This gives us a side line for remeasuring the length desired for the cape. «N Fig. 94 \ ;/ \ \ \ \ \ \ o(. V-- Front \ \ I I / / \ / / / / , REDUCED TO ONE SIXTH / / / / / y.\ / / >k From tlie neck cut-out of botli front and back we now mark off the lengths desired by a circular line passing thi-ough the side line connecting front and back, Avhich will give us the bottom of the cape- rounding. The cape shown in tliis figure is seamed along the shoulder as we notice by the V cut between front and back shoulder seams. Fig. 9-t shows another cape without seams. In this pattern our con- struction line is A — B, and the fi'ont fundamental pattern is placed along this line, so that d falls two unit parts of the scale of width from it. 4---'-"' ^^ The shoiilder seam of — --^ the back is now placed to ' the shoulder of the front so that the neck cut-out of both front and back forms a semi-circle. We now joint the ends of this semi-circle center of the line a. with- lines, marking the 84 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM We next mark tlic desired lengtli of the front, tlien tlie desired length of tlie side fi'oni tlie slioulder line neek eut-out. and tlie desired length of the back from o to e. and draw tlirough these iDoints a semi-eirele with a as the center point. In the fignre tliree ditTerent lengths are given marked in lines, lines and lines. The center of the back o — c is laid out on the fold of the material. If a more flaring cape is desired, onr line o — e may be pivoted from o towards c — A any distance desired, as this will give lis a more flaring ett'ect. Fig. 95 gives a cape with a separate sleeve set-in, which can be extended the full length of the cape or cut shorter if desired as shown in Fig. 96. The construction of both of these capes is shown in Fig. 94 in lines. The sleeve is shown by an are from k through d. the highest point of the shoulders to g. Cutting along tliis line will give us the front and liack in one piece; the second piece is the so-called sleeve as demonstrated in Fig. 95. Fig. 96 shows the same cape with a shawl collar instead of a high standing one. The sleeve part joining the back and front is cut away after the desired length of sleeve is reached. The corresponding parts are sewed together to form the sleeve. The darts shown in the front funda- mental pattern are ignored in cape making. PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 85 Table HI For Professional Designers (See Table III— IV) In examining the upper sleeve pattern for a 36 figure marked in heavy lines, we notice construction lines from A to B and A to C in lines. These lines make respectively larger and smaller arm-halls as indicated by A — B, and higher or lower elbow points indicated by A — C. The grading lines which indicate the different sizes are respectively f of an inch apart in the upper arm back-seam, both in width and length, but at the top of the arm-ball gradually diminish in width toward point A in the underarm seam. In the under sleeve the 36 pattern is marked in heavy lines. A — B and A — C in lines mark respectively the highest and lowest point of the under- arm cut-out. and highest and lowest elbow point. The gradings are ^ of an inch apart for width, and § of an inch is allowed, the same as in the iipper sleeve for the length. The curve of the underarm cut-out increases in enlarging, and decreases in diminishing our fundamental pattern to meet the grading lines of the back under- arm seam. Table IV The front of our fundamental pattern for a full size 36 figure is here shown iu lines. Note the lines from points {' to E and D. and from point F to K through C and F to S. These lines are used as guides in grading the pattern. In front and at the sides ' /i^ of an inch is either added or deducted in grading. In the side part we see the lines N — — V and — P. — P is the guide for grading to sizes smaller than 36, and — U to those larger than the regu- lar 36. The grading lines are ^/^,. of an inch apart. In the back the grading lines are on the average '/-^^ of an inch apart, the construction of same being guided by the line A — B. By adding the grading distances of the front "/j,., side 'Vni, and back '/,,., we have increased or diminished our half pattern one inch. Doubling this on the whole pattern we obtain the size of the pattern, as all patterns are graded on a two-inch scale. The table also includes a schedule of all necessary measurements from 30 to 48 bust measure. Remarks As all patterns are made without seams, we must allow | of an inch for all seams in the upper and under sleeves, and li inches in the length for turning under and facing. In the basque f of an inch is allowed on all seams, except at the front, shoulders, and center back, where an allowance of J of an inch is made. In addition to this, to the center front an allowance of li inches is made for single-breasted effect, and from 2 to 2i inches for double-breasted garments. The usual | of an inch allowance is made for cuffs, collars, pockets, etc. \ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 063 989 8