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RECENTLY PUBLISHED, 
 
 and for sale by the booksellers generally, 
 
 THE RAMBLER IN NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 By CHARLES JOSEPH LATROBE. 
 In 2 vols, 12mo. 
 
THE RAMBLER 
 
 IN MEXICO 
 
 MDCCCXXXIV. 
 
 BY CHARLES JOSEPH LATROBE, 
 
 AUTHOR OF THE "ALPENSTOCK," ETC. 
 
 Coelum, non animum mutant qui trans mare cumint." 
 
 HoR. Epist. 
 
 NEW-YORK: 
 
 HARPER &, BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF-STREET. 
 
 183 6. 
 
\ V:.., 
 
 i£ 
 
 1 H V (^ ^ 
 
 -J. X 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Letter I. — The Gulf of Mexico — The Goelette Halcyon — Her Pas- 
 sengers and Crew — The Bravo — Sunday on board — A Calm — The 
 Roadstead of Tampico — Prognostics of coming Evil — Morning before a 
 Storm — The Custom House Boat — The Norte — The Goelette is driven 
 out to Sea — The Halcyon returns to her anchoring Ground — The Bar 
 — The River Panuco — Arrival at Tampico —A second Norte . page 7 
 
 Letter H. — First Hours in New Spain — Description of Tampico— 
 Inhabitants — Character of the Mexican — The European — The Indian 
 — Military — The Fonda de la Bolza — Pastimes of the Inhabitants — • 
 Scenery of the Environs — The Bluff and the Rivers — Juliano — Insect 
 hunting — A Cure of Enthusiasm — The Garapatos — A third Norte — ■ 
 Return of the Halcyon — Vexatious Detention — Pueblo Viejo — La Mira 
 — La Fuente — The arriero Ant — We quit the Coast — Tampico Alta 22 
 
 Letter III. — Halt at Tampico Alta—Physical Geography of New 
 Spain — The Tierras calientes, Tierras templadas, and Tierras frias — 
 Description of the Party — The Masters and Servants, Juliano, Miguel, 
 Don Juan Espindola, Don Gaetano — Scenery — La Messa — " Aimable 
 et execrable Tampico" — Osuhuama, an Indian Village — The Rancho 
 — The Indian Cabin — The Inmates — Curious Scene — Indian Guile 
 — Santa Catherina — The Hacienda — Chicontepec — A storm — Miguel, 
 a horracho — Vale of the Sierra Madre — The Cura's Seat — The River 
 Canada — Great Defile of the Canada ; Features of— Splendid Scenery 
 — Tlacolula— The Cura — The Mules — Miguel and Juliano — The 
 Monte Penulco — The Tierras templadas 38 
 
 Letter IV. — Scenery of the Monte Penulco— The Tierras templa- 
 das — Juliano's Sickness and Defection — Zacualtipan ; Description of — 
 The Arriero's Home — A Day's Rest — Ruins — An awkward Adventure 
 — San Bernardo — The Agave Americana — The Cactus — Singular 
 Scenery — Rio Oquilcalco — Rio Grande — The Mountain of San Am- 
 monica — Hacienda Zoquital — Circuit to visit Regla — Puebla Grande de 
 Mittan — Hacienda and Barranca of Regla — The Amalgamation Works 
 — Real del Monte Company — The basaltic Rocks — The Cascade — 
 Dangerous nocturnal Ascent to Real del iMonte — The Town ; Scenery 
 in the Vicinity of — A Visit to the Mines — The various Shafts — Mode 
 of working — An Indian Tale— Route from the Mines to the Capital^™- 
 San Mateo Grande — The City of Mexico— Features of the neighbour? 
 ing Plains 59 
 
 a3 
 
VI CQN TENTS. 
 
 Letter V. — The City of Mexico — Dispersion of our Train, ani 
 Subsequent Arrangements — Pursuits of the Trio — Description of the 
 Valley and City — The Environs of the City — The Calzadas — The- 
 Aqueducts — The Route of San Augustin — Optical Deception — Haci- 
 enda San Antonio ; Description of — The Pedigral — Culture of the Ma- 
 guey — Buildings of the Hacienda — San Augustin ; View from its Envi- 
 rons — The Scenery of the Valley — Volcanoes and volcanic Phenomena, 
 present and past — Routes from the Valley of Mexico — Tacuba — San 
 Cosmo — Apopotla — The Cupressus distieha — Chapultepec — Guada- 
 loupe — The Patron Saint of Mexico — Nuestra Senora de los Remideos 
 • — The Climate of Mexico — Earthquakes =......., 80 
 
 Letter VI. — Civilities to Foreigners in the City of Mexico — The 
 Opinions of Foreigners — The French Barber — The Belgian Host — The 
 German Saddler — The Corps d'Opera — The Palaces — The Canals — 
 The Market — The Alguazil — Shops — The upper Classes, male and fe- 
 male — The Alameda — The Paseo de las Vigas — Military — Mexican 
 Habits — State of the Country and of Parties — The Holy Week — Influx 
 of Strangers of all Classes to Mexico — The Plaza Mayor — The Booths 
 ■ — Holy Thursday — Church visiting — Popular Amusements — The Rat- 
 tles — Judas Iscariot — Processions on Good Friday — Saturday before 
 Easter— The Termination of the Holy Week — Christianity in Mexico 
 — ^Public Institutions—The Museum— Antiquities — The ancient Mex- 
 ican Calendar — Antiquities ^ ...... lOS 
 
 Letter VII. — Excursion in the Environs — The Calzada — Penon 
 Viejo — Lake Tezcuco — Hacienda, Chapingo, Huejutla — The Baiio di 
 Montezuma — Tezcosingo — Tezcuco — The Contador — Remains of the 
 Mastodon — Singular Fact — San Juan Teotrhuacan — The Houses of 
 the Sun and Moon ; Description of — History of Anahuac — Peopling of 
 the Continent of America — Origin of these pyramidal Monuments — 
 Time and Manner in which Men and Animals reached the American 
 Continent — Entry into the House of the Moon — Terra cotta Heads 
 
 and obsidian Knives — The Fainting Stone — Tecania — Zumpango 
 
 Huehuetoca — The Desague Real — Guautitlan — Tanepantla — Return 
 to the Capital 133 
 
 Letter VHI. — Tlie Opera at Mexico — Bullfights — The Desierto— > 
 Scenery of the Valley of Mexico — ^Departure fjr the Coast — Tlalpam — 
 Route of the Cruz del Marques — Cuernavaca — Visit to the Teocalli of 
 Xochicalco — The House of Flowers — Yantipec — Cuautla Amilpas — 
 Disagreeable Adventure — Zacualpam Amilpas — Base of Popocatepetl 
 — San Mateo — ^Atliseo — Cholula 167 
 
 Letter IX. — Cholula — The Great Pyramid — QuetzalcoatI — La Pu- 
 ebla — The English dray Horses — Route to Vera Cruz — The Pinal — ■ 
 Ojo de Agua — Ori^ava — Perote — Las Vigas — The Coffre de Perote 
 and its Lavas — The Alps and the Cordillera — Jalapa — The Litter — 
 Puente del Rey — Vera Cruz — The Roadstead — Sail from New Spain 
 — The Vomiio Prieto — Conclusion 203 
 
THE 
 
 RAMBLER IN MEXICO. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 I RESUME my correspondence with you, and herewith 
 send you a few sheets containing a chronicle of my 
 vernal rambles in New Spain. 
 
 The present recital introduces you to the same prin- 
 cipal dramatis personse, and opens, where my last closed 
 — on board the goelette Halcyon, in the gulf of Mexico ; 
 somewhere about latitude 28^^ north, longitude 92° west, 
 or within a hundred miles, more or less, of the tropic of 
 Cancer. It was the fifteenth of January, 1834 ; wind 
 from the eastward, light but steady ; sky serene, and 
 every prospect of a fair and fortunate voyage. The 
 distance from the Balize lighthouse at the entrance of 
 the Mississippi, to the bar of Tampico, towards which 
 the head of our little vessel was directed, is about six 
 hundred miles. 
 
 From this date, up to the fourth day at noon — so fa- 
 vourable were the auspices under which our voyage was 
 continued, always excepting the confined position, sea- 
 sickness, and the bad company on board — we never shifted 
 a sail. They may really be said to have been halcyon 
 days. We were then, by computation, a little more than 
 forty miles from our port. Towards evening it fell 
 calm ; and during the succeeding night, the stars, and the 
 moon in her second quarter, glistened upon the deck, as 
 it swam with the heavy dews of the tropics. 
 
 But that you may better enter into the state of our 
 
8 THE GULF. 
 
 feelings, and of our anticipations at this juncture, I offer 
 you the following description of our position. 
 
 The Halcyon was a small, two-masted vessel, of but 
 trifling burden, though, in fact, of far too great a draught 
 for the trade in which it was engaged, as will be seen 
 hereafter. The peculiar details of the rig I spare you ; 
 first, because you would hardly be the wiser for them, 
 and secondly, because I have forgotten them. Our 
 freight below deck consisted of notions, or a mixed cargo 
 of European and American manufacture, suited to the 
 Mexican market. The hold was gorged to the hatches ; 
 the forward deck encumbered with two lage piles of 
 merchandise and lumber, and the cabins, fore and aft, 
 were all filled to a certain extent, much to the discomfort 
 of the live stock on board, under which head our trio, 
 and about forty passengers — inclusive of a woman and 
 child, and exclusive of half a dozen hands attached to the 
 vessel — must be comprised. 
 
 The low after-cabin measured about twelve feet 
 by eight. It was furnished with four confined double 
 berths, each containing a dirty mattress, a blanket, and, 
 on an average, five hundred cockroaches and other 
 creepers. Half a dozen passengers might have been ac- 
 commodated with some decency in this den ; neverthe- 
 less, as it was, it was devoted to the free use of five-and- 
 twenty. In brief, the manner in which the vessel was 
 crammed to repletion with live and dead stock, to the 
 exclusion of any chance of ease, was discreditable to the 
 owners and officers of the ship. But what could we ex- 
 pect from beings such as we now had to deal with ! 
 
 The day spent at anchor, within the bar of the Mis- 
 sissippi, had given us some foretaste of our position, and 
 of the character of those among whom we were thrown ; 
 and during the succeeding days, we had ample time for 
 closer observation. 
 
 As to nations and pursuits, there was distinction 
 enough among the forty souls on board : as to character, 
 one term would suffice ; they were rogues all — ourselves 
 excluded. De Vignes, the captain, was a Provencal, 
 
THE GULF. 9 
 
 the same who, if report said true, commanded the Ca- 
 lypso slave ship, with three liundred slaves on board> 
 which was captured by an English cruiser off Mantanzas, 
 Within sight of his port, his evil star prevailed ; he was 
 observed and chased — was obliged to run his ship 
 aground, and only escaped certain hanging by leaping 
 overboard, and swimming for his life to the shore. 
 Though a slave dealer and excessively choleric, he was 
 not without his good points. When not irritated, he 
 might be termed good natured, and evinced generous and 
 charitable feelings. He was doubtless an excellent sea- 
 man. His general manner, however, gave you the im- 
 pression of his being soured by adversity, and by a con- 
 stant struggle with misfortune. Among the crew under 
 his command, you might enumerate probably as many 
 nations as individuals; and nothing could be more 
 amusing than to hear the orders, whenever he was in a 
 bustle, given and responded to in English, Spanish, and 
 French. 
 
 Among those who were entitled, by right of payment, 
 to the same accommodation as ourselves — with excep- 
 tion of the special enjoyment of the berths and cock- 
 roaches, which we had timely secured — there were 
 characters such as would make the fortune of any of the 
 present herd of tale-weavers for the annuals and maga- 
 zines. I cannot linger, however, with either Don Pablo, 
 a fat old Spaniard, full of conceits and odd scraps of 
 songs, going to Mexico to seek his fortune, with a good 
 chance of being hung as a Guachupin ; or Don Garcia, 
 an exiled Mexican officer, of Iturbide's party, repairing 
 secretly thither with reasonable expectation of being dis- 
 covered and shot ; or Cortina, the captain who had 
 lost his ship ; or Celestina, the farceur of the company. 
 Neither can 1 give you the history of the conjuror on 
 board ; nor describe the boisterous singing and gaming, 
 the impure orgies and impious airs of the mauiyais sujets, 
 French, Spanish, German, nor give the history of the fair 
 Creole emigrating from New Orleans, with her squalling 
 child, under the protection of a fat and portly school- 
 
10 THE GULF. 
 
 master of Tamaulipas, jealous and suspicious of every 
 man on board. One personage, however, was too striking 
 not to be singled out. 
 
 A tall athletic figure, with strongly marked features ; a 
 countenance roughened with the signs of long addiction 
 to a life of passion and adventure ; shabby travel-worn 
 habiliments, and a slouched hat, under which he could, 
 when occasion suited, throw his changeful features into 
 shadows, indicated the bravo, soi disajit Monsieur le 
 Marquis de Maison Rouge, of the ancient and noble 
 house of Maison Rouge de Perpignan. According to 
 his own account, he had been born and bred in Louisiana, 
 and had been cheated of some hundred thousand million 
 acres of fat and fertile land in that state, his lawful patri- 
 mony. He had been compelled by a stern and uncivil 
 guardian to study civil engineering, and, according to 
 his own testimony, with considerable success. Subse- 
 quently he had been taken prisoner by the English, when 
 acting as sentinel in the marshes, at the time of the attack 
 upon New Orleans. Whether his brain or his morals 
 had become unsettled by a knock on the head from the 
 butt end of a musket, which he had received on this oc- 
 casion, and had not yet digested, I cannot say ; but it 
 was evident that he had never acted like a man of edu- 
 cation, breeding, or noble birth since. He had adopted 
 the creed of Sardanapalus ; and at New Orleans, in the 
 Attakapas, at the Havanna, in ihe islands, and on the 
 main, had led, for years, a shameless life of sin and crime. 
 As he acquired gold, he spent it in brawls and violence. 
 His person bore the marks of the cutting and stabbing 
 frays in which he had often been an actor, and not un- 
 frequently a victim. Now, penniless, he w^as going to 
 Mexico, to make his fortune in some wild speculation, in 
 reference to which he could point out neither the means 
 by which it was to be set on foot, nor the ultimate ends 
 which were to be gained. When not excited, he was 
 good tempered, and his voice was one of the most musical 
 I ever heard. When conversing, which he did at times 
 most agreeably and well, you could hardly believe that 
 those bland tones were the production of such a stormy 
 
THE GULF. 11 
 
 machine ; or that the same lips could pour forth that un- 
 controlled torrent of impure language, in hot vehemence 
 of rage, when the possessor was under the influence of 
 passion. Never did I see before me an example like 
 that here aflfordedjof the wakefulness of conscience, wliile 
 the body slept. He never gave himself up to rest like 
 other men. It seemed that his nerves were never un- 
 braced, and his muscles never in complete repose — that 
 the bow was never unstrung. The first impulse of his 
 muscular arm on being disturbed, was to place itself in 
 a position to guard the body ; the first expression of his 
 lineaments was that of suspicion. He never seemed to 
 dream of his innocent childhood, but always of the scenes 
 of his misspent and stormy manhood, and they truly were 
 not calculated to lull his slumbers. 
 
 Thus crowded together and surrounded, it was a bless- 
 ing to be favoured by wind and w^eather, and to have a 
 reasonable hope of a speedy termination to our voyage. 
 The meals, which occurred twice a day, were hasty and 
 rude repasts, of w^hich, hunger compellinof, we all par- 
 took, standing round the raised roof of the after cabin; 
 below decks, it would have been impossible to assist at 
 them. 
 
 Sunday was, of course, in nowise distinguished from 
 ordinary days, by greater propriety of demeanour or 
 calmer temper of mind. We w^ere quite beyond the 
 Sabbath : and the only thing which marked that such a 
 day w^as entered on the log, was a quarrel, knife in hand, 
 between the supervisor of provisions and the cook, ari- 
 sing from a claim to the honour of mixing the Sunday 
 pudding, upon which each insisted. I forget who gained 
 the victory ultimately, but I remember that the pudding 
 was very badly mixed, and as tough as parchment. 
 
 The morning of the fifth day after quitting the Balize, 
 as I have related, it fell calm. A golden mist hovered 
 over the surface of the sea. and the green colour of its 
 waters betokened our having come upon soundings. 
 The weather, as the day advanced, maintained the same 
 character. Portuguese men-of-war floated by hundreds 
 
12 The gulf. 
 
 about the goelette ; and whenever the white vaponrs, in 
 which the horizon was swathed, broke in our vicinity, 
 and the sunHght burst upon us, the air was delicious. 
 The state of inaction, however, was disagreeable, and 
 the constant jar of what our captain, in his piebald lan- 
 guage, called ihe pumtaclde, as the bark rolled on the swell, 
 not the less so. We were drifting slowly on the current 
 to the northward. As the sun sank, however, the sea 
 breeze filled our sails ; and the mist dispersing, we pro- 
 ceeded to the westward ; and, coming in full view of the 
 low, sandy hills on the beach, anchored after snnset in 
 about nine fathoms, in the roads ofTampico, directly 
 opposite the bar at the entrance of the river Panuco, , 
 distant about three miles. 
 
 This was not so much amiss. But our pleasant dreams 
 of a speedy termination to the present state of durance 
 vile were, as yet, far from being realized. 
 
 The night was clear and starlight — how bright and 
 brilliant the constellations stood in the heavens, I cannot 
 describe to you. Even after our short voyage, i he breath 
 of the land was delicious, and the heavy dull sound of 
 the breakers on the bar that engirdled the land of won- 
 ders before us, was music to our ears, as we lay under 
 our blankets stretched upon the roof of the cabin. We 
 hailed our escape from the arms of winter ; from the 
 marshes, quags, mud, and snow of New Orleans, its 
 thick and polluted air, where the w^orshippers of Mam- 
 mon can alone find delight, to the mountains, the vegeta- 
 tion, the eternal summer of New Spain. 
 
 Still, if I may depict my own feelings, I may confess 
 that there was a weight on my spirits, which, though it 
 could not entirely crush these pleasant hopes and reflec- 
 tions, seemed to prevent their soaring and running riot. 
 1 would not shut my eyes to some signs of probable dif- 
 ficulty which all might have noticed ; and I could not 
 prevent certain portents of coming troubles from depres- 
 sing my mind. 
 
 Among the former I may mention the knowledge, that 
 as there was only six or seven feet water on the bar^ 
 
THE GULF. X3 
 
 while our vessel had full ten feet draught, she must con- 
 sequently be unloaded before she could enter the river. 
 Further, that where we lay, as well as on the whole 
 shelterless and iron-bound coast to the north and south, 
 no vessel could maintain its ground, should any of the 
 prevailing winds arise. In addition, it was whispered 
 about the vessel, that no inconsiderable quantity of con- 
 traband goods were concealed on board, and that a 
 recent change in the custom house of Tampico, com- 
 bined with the bad name which the Halcyon had already 
 acquired, would probably bring the vessel and all on board 
 into difficulty, in this semi-barbarous country, where law 
 was but imperfectly understood, and still more imper- 
 fectly administered. 
 
 Moreover, the eyes and ears of some of us on board 
 were witnesses of much calculated to throw a yet darker 
 veil over the future. 
 
 Lovely as the weather had been for some time, the 
 signs of a coming change had gradually thickened upon 
 us. The deep blue of the southern sky had of late, oc- 
 casionally, towards evening, been flickered with one or 
 two light vapoury and feathery clouds, like the tail of a 
 wild horse, or of a comet, seemingly balanced over our 
 heads in the upper regions of the atmosphere. The ces- 
 sation of the steady breeze, the fluctuating calm of the 
 preceding day, the superabundant dews, and more than 
 all, the restless swell now heaving upon the shore from 
 the depths of the gulf, had all betokened to the practised 
 eye and long experience of De Vignes, the near approach 
 of a norte, one of the most dreaded of those violent 
 winds which agitate this land-locked and deceitful sea ; 
 and while others were dreaming of land, he was evi- 
 dently thinking of storm and tempest, and was preparing 
 for it accordingly. Our chain cable was fitted with a buoy, 
 and arrangements made to slip it at a moment's warning. 
 Before he went to his repose, the topmasts and yards 
 were lowered, every sail on board double reefed, and the 
 decks cleared as far as it was possible to clear them. 
 
 With the approach of morning, driving bodies of cold 
 
 B 
 
14 THE GULF, 
 
 mist covered us once more, and veiled the land from our 
 view. Hour went after hour, and the evil omens thick- 
 ened around us ; the sky became blurred with shapeless 
 masses of reddish clouds, and as the sun rose, a broken 
 and discoloured rainbow was seen in the west. Ill- 
 omened arch ! how different from the bow after summer 
 rain, spanning the eastern sky at eventide, which we have 
 learned to hail as full of promise ! 
 
 About ten o'clock a.m. the sea breeze dispersed the 
 mists on the smooth but heaving surface of the water, but 
 had no power on the sky, which imperceptibly grew of a 
 deeper dun, especially from the zenith to the southeast. 
 
 Our eyes were anxiously turned to the west, where we 
 could again descry the range of coast, the foam-covered 
 line of breakers on the bar, and the tall masts of a num- 
 ber of vessels within it. Six or eight of various burden 
 "were seen riding at anchor in the open roadstead ; either 
 watching, like ourselves, for communication with the 
 shore, or outward bound, for the reception of their cargo. 
 Our glasses were constantly directed to the bar for some 
 indication that the signals for a pilot were observed ; but 
 hours came and went, without the slightest sign of recog- 
 nition. As the day passed the meridian, however, a 
 black spot was seen among the breakers, and then an- 
 other, and we soon distinguished two custom-house boats 
 pulling north and south, to communicate with other ships. 
 When it became evident that neither seemed to consider 
 us as within their beat, the captain resolved to send the 
 shallop with two men to communicate with them. Two 
 more hours of uncertainty followed, when the boatmen 
 came back, stating that the answer returned by the officers 
 was, tliat we must come and anchor nearer the shore, be- 
 fore they would board us. Old De Vignes ^ave a terrific 
 growl on hearing this ; glanced at the thickening sky, 
 and at the eastern horizon ; and, after a moment's hesi- 
 tation, gave the necessary orders to obey, and to run the 
 goelette in. The anchor v/as weighed ; and a momen- 
 tary exultation was felt by all, as we found ourselves at 
 length riding at anchor again within hail. 
 
 What then occurred is now like a dream to me ; that 
 
THE GULF. ' 15 
 
 a boat should come aboard of us, and that hardly an in- 
 dividual should leave the goelette, when at this time our 
 fate might have been foreseen by the most heedless on 
 board, seems to me to be perfectly incomprehensible. The 
 crowded state of the vessel was a source of discomfort 
 to all ; our water and our biscuit were both known to be 
 running short, and the signs of the impending tempest 
 could no longer be misunderstood. Yet no one stirred 
 — for why, no one could give a reason but the poor one, 
 that the few who went, must go without baggage ashore, 
 and the impulse seemed to be " to stick by the stuff." 
 The boat was after an instant's parley pushed off again 
 with its wild, half-savage, pirate-looking crew, who were 
 accompanied by the supercargo of the goelette, after 
 giving the promise, that early next morning all the pas- 
 sengers should be landed, and the discharge of the cargo 
 forthwith commenced. They hoisted the sail — were 
 soon carried to the bar, and disappeared among the huge 
 waves which broke upon it. 
 
 The momentary bustle over, we had time to compre- 
 hend our position, and it grew more dreary every instant. 
 The wind now blew steadily from the southeast, and the 
 swell rose with it. The sky began to lose its uniform 
 shade, and to jag and rend into shapeless masses of heavy 
 clouds. The man-of-war bird was seen high up in the 
 atmosphere, breasting the breeze, and scudding out to 
 sea ; while the bands of white pelicans, which we had 
 watched soaring and diving in the roadstead during the 
 morning, quitted their toils and wheeled their heavy flight 
 over the breakers to the sheltered sands and lagoons of 
 the land. It seemed as if all were leaving us and our ill- 
 starred neighbours to their fate. It was evident that the 
 latter had taken the alarm, and were hastily preparing for 
 the coming struggle with the powers of the air and ocean. 
 One brig partly discharged, which lay about a mile nearer 
 the bar, trusting probably to the weight of water which 
 was now rolling in upon the land, resolved to attempt 
 the passage, and setting her sails, stood in boldly for the 
 shore. The day must have been near its close, for we had 
 
16 THE GULF. 
 
 difficulty to descry her motions distinctly in the thickeo- 
 ing haze. She was seen to career midway among the 
 breakers, when suddenly her change of position and in- 
 clination told us that she had struck. A few minutes of 
 intense anxiety followed. To return was impossible, 
 and if she did not advance, her total loss was unavoidable. 
 We saw her heave and strike heavily three or four times, 
 as the sea rolled in upon her, and had given her up for 
 lost, when providentially a heavier billow than ordinary 
 carried her over the last ridge, and righting, she was in 
 safety. How we envied her ! 
 
 As evening darkened the deck, the wind increased, 
 and the captain no longer made a secret of his convic- 
 tion that we should be driven out to sea before morn- 
 ing. There was something like despair painted on the 
 visages of some, when this became known ; and a vol- 
 ley of curses, deep, not loud, answered the announce- 
 ment. 
 
 We were not long left in uncertainty. " The ship to 
 the southward is scudding' !" said one. " There goes the 
 brig !" exclaimed another, I remember I was in my 
 usual position on deck, near the little tiller ; now and 
 then glancing at the dim form of our nearest neigh- 
 bour ; or searching into the gloom to windward, striving 
 to penetrate the dusk out of which one spectral foam- 
 tipped billow was heaving and passing under us after 
 another, urged by the impulse of a strong but steady 
 wind, when all of a sudden the goelette received a 
 shock from the opposite quarter which staggered all up- 
 on deck, and steadied her completely for the moment. 
 
 *' El norte P^ yelled the mate at my elbow, as a tor- 
 rent of wind and spray swept over the deck. " El 
 norte r echoed Cortina, the shipless captain, "] lost 
 my ship in the last !" ''El norte T shouted the bravo, 
 excited by the coming struggle with the elements, for 
 which he had been preparing himself by stripping al- 
 most naked, and tying a ragged handkerchief about his 
 head, " Helm hard down — sh'p the chain cable 1" re- 
 sponded the captain, as he hoisted the jib with his own 
 hands ; and instantly the harsh sound of the iron was. 
 
THE GULF. , 17 
 
 heard passing out at the bow. The vessel began to 
 change her Srection, when suddenly she was brought 
 to again with a jerk, and a cry forward announced that 
 the last bolt of the chain refused to pass through the 
 hawse hole. 
 
 A cold chisel was procured, and while it was em- 
 ployed to cut the iron bolt, all who were aware of the 
 circumstance were inclined to check their breath. Our 
 position was truly one of no ordinary peril, as the strain 
 upon the forward timber threatened to tear it out of the 
 ship, in which case we must instantly have gone down. 
 
 At length the bolt was severed, and the vessel, free 
 from all obstacles, whirled round, and began to fly be- 
 fore the wind. 
 
 Such a wind I had till then never even imagined. 
 The sea was apparently levelled under its pressure ; and 
 far and near seemed like a carpet of driving snow, from 
 the sleet and foam which were raised and hurried along 
 its surface. 
 
 Thus we turned our backs on the shore, and drove 
 hour after hour in storm and darkness into the unknown 
 void before us. 
 
 What appearances there were in the sky I do not 
 know, as our vision was limited to a narrow circle of 
 half a furlong around us ; but if the disorder of the clouds 
 answered that of the waves, there must have been awful 
 doings over our heads. 
 
 The sea, in spite of the tremendous force of the wind 
 which I have alluded to, was not long to be lulled in 
 this unnatural slumber, but began to rise and toss us 
 about in fearful wise ; and yet it was not till we had run 
 under shortened sail for many hours, in a direction which 
 carried us out of all danger of the coast, and we lay to 
 under three-reefed mainsail and trysail, that we felt all 
 the discomfort of our situation. 
 
 By this time the decks, washed by the sea, had been 
 cleared of all lumber. The cocks and hens had been 
 drowned in the coops, the boat had been half staved, the 
 binnacle and compass broken, and all the inhabitants 
 
 b2 
 
18 THE GULF. 
 
 forced by the wet and the chillrsess of the atmosphere 
 to herd together below deck. 
 
 Meantime, what between the crowded state of the 
 cabins, the violence of the storm, the shocks received 
 from the strife of waters in which we were involved, the 
 fears and terrors of some, the horrid and blasphemous 
 language uttered by others of the desperadoes about us, 
 the dirt and impurity surrounding us, and the quarrel- 
 ling and caballing of the crew, our position was truly un- 
 enviable. 
 
 Morning brought no cessation of the tempest. The 
 wind continued to blow with terrific violence, and day- 
 light found us riding and rocking among a tumult of bil- 
 lows, whitened by the driving surf, and enveloped by a 
 gray misty cloud of agitated vapour. The pumps were 
 sounded every half hour. The Halcyon was, howevery 
 sound, and the captain's arrangements well and know- 
 ingly made ; and there we rode, while one immense bil- 
 low after another swelled up like a huge monster out of 
 the mist to windward, advanced topling towards us, with 
 its broad-spread moving slopes marbled by the bands of 
 creamy foam, and after a moment of seeming hesitation 
 whether it should go over or under us, was seen vanish- 
 ing to leeward. 
 
 The history of hours thus spent must be passed over. 
 This first day the Halcyon's stomach seemed to be anni- 
 hilated. Nobody cared for sustenance, and cooking was 
 out of the question. Some hope had been entertained 
 that the storm might lull at sunset, the same hour at 
 which it had arisen ; but the evening apparently darkened 
 over us more gloomily than before, and all the livelong 
 night the wild wind and wild waves continued to struggle 
 on the agitated bosom of the gulf. Our cabin was a 
 Pandemonium. 
 
 Towards noon the second day the wind began to 
 abate, the vapour to disperse, and the clouds to grow 
 more transparent. An imperfect observation taken at 
 twelve o'clock showed us that we had been driven about 
 one hundred and fifty miles to the southeast of Tampico. 
 
THE GULF. 19 
 
 With evening it fell dead calm, while the sea continued 
 to roll mountain high, and the goelette for the following 
 twenty-four hours was tossed about like a cork in a boil- 
 ing pot. 
 
 Both bread and water were becoming scarce, and we 
 were put upon an allowance of the latter. After the ces- 
 sation of the norte the sky became perfectly clear, and 
 the weather warm, with glorious moonlight nights. The 
 lightness and variableness of the wind, however, had al- 
 lowed us to make but little way; the more so, as we 
 were, during the calms, at the mercy of the powerful cur- 
 rents in these seas. 
 
 To cut a long story short, you may imagine us on the 
 afternoon of the fifth day from the date of our mishap, 
 once more within sight of land ; and approaching our 
 anchorage with feelings which you can well conceivCj 
 when you recollect the heartburning we had before ex- 
 perienced, and the hopelessness of a speedy communica- 
 tion with the shore, combined with the present state of 
 the vessel, the nausea which we could not but feel at our 
 prolonged forced contact with the most godless and aban- 
 doned set of human beings I ever was in company with ; 
 and more than all, the fact that the signs of another norte 
 had been thickening around during the day, and now at 
 the approach of night were becoming too evident to 
 admit of misinterpretation. Upon one subject we were 
 all agreed this time, that if we left the Halcyon without a 
 rag, we would not let another opportunily slip through 
 our fingers. Well, our signal was once more fluttering 
 in the wind, and we came to our old anchoring ground. 
 One or two of our former neighbours w^ere also seen re- 
 gaining their port — the greater part were yet missing. 
 With what anxiety we directed our eyes to the bar ! An 
 hour went by, evening with its menace narrowed the 
 horizon ; the wind which had brought us in blew stiffer 
 and stiffer. I had begun to give up my hope, for, without 
 being able to account for it, I had indulged a little — and 
 had as a duty begun to school myself into resignation to 
 the will of God, whatever that might be — when two 
 specks were seen in the breakers, and shortly we saw 
 
20 THE GULF. 
 
 two boats pulling for us with might and main. The one 
 was a revenue barge, and the other a cockle shell of a 
 boat belonging to an American brigantine within the bar, 
 whose captain, out of friendship for De Vignes, risked 
 the passage with two sailors, and came to warn him of 
 the bad odour in which the Halcyon stood at Tampico, 
 and the difficulties which would attend his proceedings. 
 
 I saw at once that as far as our captain was concerned 
 he was contented to remain out at sea, till time should 
 permit his agents to make the necessary arrangements 
 with the custom-house officers, w^iich was not as yet ter- 
 minated ; and that the fate of his passengers was nothing 
 in his eyes. He, however, clamoured for water, and 
 that earnestly, and made no secret of his belief that he 
 must again go out to sea. But we needed no spur to 
 make us wish to escape from the Halcyon. There was 
 no bond between us and our companions but that of dire 
 necessity, and chivalrous deference or devotion was here 
 quite out of place. It was evident that each must shift 
 for himself Besides, among the many kinds of justice to 
 be done, that kind usually termed "justice to one's self," is 
 not always to be disregarded. A timely application to 
 the captain of the brigantine secured us the use of his 
 skiff, which was in truth a mere toy, so fragile that the 
 weight of my two companions and myself w^as almost too 
 much for it, and sank it to the water's edge. To this we 
 speedily consigned our persons, leaving our goods and 
 chattels to their fate, De Vignes had quarrelled with 
 his acquaintance the instant he set his foot on deck, so 
 that he had nothing to detain him ; and after three min- 
 utes' stay, the little boat was scudding under a thin linen 
 lugsail, over the broad swell, which was now rolling, in 
 increasing volumes at the lapse of every ten seconds, in 
 towards the land. 
 
 The feeling of exultation was warm in our bosoms as 
 the distance between us and our late prison momentarily 
 increased. There was, however, a peril in advance, 
 which soon claimed our attention, and that was the pas- 
 sage of the bar, which now exhibited a broad band of 
 breakers. But we felt stout hearted, even in a moment 
 
THE GULF. 2X 
 
 of indecision, when it was suspected that we were miss- 
 ing the narrow passage and driving to destruction. There 
 was an instant when we seemed on the point of being 
 overwhelmed by the huge masses of foam which rose 
 like columns on either hand, and took the wind out of 
 the sail. In fact, we gave the southern breakers a very 
 perilous shave ; yet all sat steady, and in another minute, 
 the bar and the gulf were behind us, and we were pass- 
 ing with wind and tide up the river Panuco. 
 
 How beautiful appeared those green and wooded 
 shores — how delicious the perfume from the scented 
 mimosa bushes on the banks — how welcome the sight of 
 the firm land and its habitations ! 
 
 A sail of six miles brought us after dark to the new 
 town. I believe the most heedless of us felt his heart 
 swell with emotion of gratitude to God for our deliver- 
 ance. Before us, the setting sun glistened sweetly on 
 all objects — while behind, it lighted up the white bar, 
 over which we could discern the masts of the Halcyon 
 as she stood in relief, against the dark curtain of clouds 
 thickening in the windward. We met a boat load of 
 water going out to her under the care of the supercargo ; 
 but it never reached her, as by the time they got to the 
 bar, the night and coming storm forbade the attempt ; 
 and I may at once mention, that long before dawn, the 
 ill-fated Halcyon, without bread, water, and with all her 
 passengers, save eight, who contrived, like ourselves, to 
 land, had been compelled once more to spread her wings, 
 and to speed on the breath of a second violent norte out 
 to sea ; and that ten days elapsed before we heard of her 
 third approach to the coast. 
 
 This trial was spared De Pourtales, M'Euen, and 
 your humble servant; and we never forgot to bless 
 God, day by day, for it. At the same time we had our 
 trial, being reduced to one shirt a piece, and to a state 
 of great impatience, w^hich is not to be wondered at 
 when you learn that we were here in a position where 
 we could neither advance nor recede, that the period 
 of three short months was all which our other arrange- 
 
22 TAMPICO. 
 
 ments could permit us to devote to New Spain, and 
 that from circumstances hereafter to be explained, one 
 third of this time was swallowed up on the very thresh- 
 old of the country. 
 
 My next shall introduce you to the Fonda de la Bolza, 
 as our melancholy place of sojourn at Tampico. 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 It was well that our minds, on landing, were really 
 disposed to contentment, and that we were inclined to 
 overlook minor grievances in our escape from far great- 
 er, otherwise, there were circumstances attending our 
 first debut in this land of delights, teeming, as we sup- 
 posed, with gold and silver, and the richest fruits of the 
 earth, which w^ere certainly far from agreeable, setting 
 aside the causes of trial at which I hinted at the close of 
 my last letter. 
 
 The first thing we experienced, which considerably 
 surprised us on placing foot in the town, was the great 
 difficulty of finding a shelter : and we were in the end 
 fain to put up, all three, with a small room in the second 
 story of a square, ill-built, open, wood barrack, the ground 
 floor of which served as a billiard room and gambling 
 house to the piebald population of Tampico de las Ta- 
 maulipas. 
 
 The second thing which quite horrified us, was the 
 difficulty of procuring food wherewith to satisfy the ap- 
 petites of three able-bodied gentlemen just from sea. 
 Eggs Ave found were rare, meat was rarer, bread the 
 rarest of all : and, except at certain hours of the day 
 w^hen it was doled forth in most apologetic morsels, 
 could not be had for love and money. 
 
 The third thing in my list, which nearly petrified us, 
 was the cold. Lying under the tropic of Cancer, we 
 
TAMPICO. 23 
 
 were absolutely forced to rise in the night, and dress 
 ourselves before we could sleep. 
 
 The fourth — but no, I will save a few^ miseries to qual- 
 ify some future page of enjoyment. 
 
 As late as 1825, the site of the present town of Tam- 
 pico was solely occupied by a few Indian huts, and the 
 feeble commerce carried on in the port was concen- 
 trated at the Pueblo Yiejo, or Old Town, situated on 
 the shore of a shallow lagoon a few miles distant, in the 
 state of Vera Cruz. The difficulty of approach, added 
 to the heavy dues exacted for all goods crossing into the 
 state of Tamaulipas on their road to the interior, seems 
 to have directed the attention of the merchants and 
 other speculators to the present site. And truly no pos- 
 sible position could have been better chosen, as it is 
 nearer the bar, situated on the main river, with sufficient 
 depth of water to admit vessels of burden to anchor 
 close to the town, and, moreover, commands an unimpeded 
 interior navigation for one hundred and twenty miles 
 up the country. Were it not for the annual visits of the 
 yellow fever, and the irremediable difficulties which the 
 interposition of the bar imposes upon the merchant, there 
 is no doubt that Tampico would become the most flour- 
 ishing port in New Spain. As it is, vessels are frequent- 
 ly detained four or five months ; being blown off* and on 
 by the frequent severe gales, before they can unload and 
 get inside the bar ; and held prisoners as long, before 
 they can cross it again. 
 
 The new town is built in regular squares, upon the 
 narrow and depressed termination of a rocky peninsula, 
 at the lower extremity of a cluster of lakes which 
 empty their waters into the gulf by the river Panuco. 
 The houses have no pretension to uniformity in their 
 style of architecture. The European merchant builds 
 substantial stone stores and dwelling houses, according 
 to the fashion of his country. The American runs 
 up his flimsy clap board edifices. The Mexican of 
 Spanish descent exhibits his taste and his knowledge 
 of the climate by low thick walls, gayly painted and 
 flat-roofed habitations, with internal courts ; and the 
 
24 TAMPICO. 
 
 Indian raises his bamboo cage, plastered with mud, and 
 thatched with palm leaves, according to the custom of 
 his forefathers. 
 
 The population is of course the most mongrel that 
 can be conceived. The commerce of the port is prin- 
 cipally in the hands of foreigners ; the imports con- 
 sisting of every imaginable fabric, whether their intro- 
 duction is consistent with the existing laws of the re- 
 public or not. Smuggling is reduced to a system. 
 The exports are confined to specie and fustic alone. 
 Of the former, seven millions of dollars from the upper 
 provinces were shipped at this port alone, during the 
 year 1833. 
 
 The sum of the population the preceding year, be- 
 fore the cholera broke out, had been estimated at five 
 thousand. Of these, three thousand are said to have 
 been swept away : and though the town was rapidly 
 recruiting its numbers at the time of our visit, the enor- 
 mous price paid for every article, whether of foreign or 
 domestic production, as well as for labour, is hardly to 
 be credited. Wages for the poorest mason or carpenter, 
 generally English or German, amounted to three or four 
 dollars a day : indeed I knew one instance of a " turn 
 out" of the workmen employed upon the house of one 
 of the principal merchants, who were not content with 
 four dollars, but laid a claim to six ! The most ragged 
 urchin lying all day under the shade in the street, if 
 asked to lend a hand to aid the operations of the mer- 
 chant for a few hours, will not stir till he has made his 
 bargain for a couple of dollars payment. You cannot 
 cross the river, a row of five minutes, for less. To come 
 up from the bar, a distance of six miles, though you be 
 ten in company — ten dollars per head is the sum de- 
 manded. Good law, and good physicking — and one 
 might add, good advice, that cheapest of all articles in 
 an ordinary state of society — cannot be had for love or 
 money. This, among a beggarly, half-naked population, 
 (I cry your pardon for speaking so of a sovereign people,) 
 would be perfectly laughable, if it were not felt to be a 
 serious matter. You may remark that both classes, 
 
TAMPICO. ^ 25 
 
 Jiative and foreign, have the same lust of gain ; they 
 only differ in their mode of following it, the one striving 
 for it by hook and crook, the others waiting till it drops 
 before their noses. 
 
 While I am scrawling these general outlines upon pa- 
 per, I may at once say that the tone of society is neither 
 creditable to the superior education of European resi- 
 dents, nor to the lofty pretensions of the Mexican em- 
 ployes, who form the nucleus of native society here. The 
 latter are ignorant and debased, insufferably bigoted and 
 proud : jealous of foreigners, and, I beheve, the majority 
 here, as throughout the country, thoroughly unprincipled. 
 Extraordinary indeed must the virtue be, which will 
 make the possessor sensible to stern justice, and insensi- 
 ble to a bribe. 
 
 As to religion— -name it not : the God of the South is 
 Mammon. There is nothing in the degraded ultra-Cath- 
 olicism of New Spain which can touch the heart and 
 elevate human nature ; and unfortunately the majority 
 of the young European merchants who resort here to 
 drive their gainful commerce, evince by word and deed, 
 that the lessons of their youth, and the God of theic 
 fathers, are alike forgotten. Had there been more fam- 
 ily men among them, one might perhaps have met with 
 more honourable exceptions. Like many mauvais sujets 
 all the world over, they were in general good-tempered, 
 serviceable fellows ; and, personally, we had nothing to 
 complain of, as far as our slight intercourse with them 
 went. 
 
 I have summarily mentioned the two principal classes 
 of the inhabitants, forming, as it were, the elite of the 
 town. It may be observed of the common people, that, 
 little as can be said in their favour as a mass, individual- 
 ly they are by far the most picturesque in form, manner, 
 and clothing. Their characters and costumes are as 
 various as their blood. The poor Indian is distinguished 
 by his sandalled foot, miserable attire, and subdued air. 
 He, at least, seems to have gained nothing by the change 
 of masters. How should he ! He was the slave of the 
 few, now he is the slave of the many. If the Spaniard 
 
26 TAMPICO. 
 
 did little to raise the character of the conquered Tassaij 
 the Mexican does less, if possible, to instruct the darker 
 skin whom he pretends to consider politically as his 
 equal, but whom, in fact, he always treats as his inferior. 
 They are as they ever were — governed by the priests, 
 and kept in utter ignorance. They supply the market 
 with fruits, water, and vegetables. 
 
 You have here the modern Mexican of every degree, 
 from the substantial ranchero, or proprietor, bespurred, 
 and bedizzened in the full and showy Mexican costume 
 of stamped leather, embroidered vest, and gaudy serapCf 
 and curbing a wild horse loaded with furniture ; or the 
 trusty arriero, with his long string of mules, his precious 
 cargo of specie, and his train of assistant mozos ; down 
 to the poor adventurer whose whole wardrobe consists 
 of a pair of faded velveteen trousers silt halfway up the 
 leg, and a tawdry cloak, haunting the gambling table, 
 and living upon what fortune sends. 
 
 The costumes are extremely picturesque from their 
 diversity of colour and pattern, and the brilliant hues 
 in fashion. I have omitted to mention the soldiery, than 
 which a more shabaroon, cutthroat set, whether officers 
 or men, I never beheld. It is said that they fight well. 
 I do not dispute the on dit, but from all the evidence I 
 could ever collect, I have considerable difficulty in be- 
 lieving it. I think they would run better ; and I know 
 that on most occasions, they do so with very slight prov- 
 ocation. As to costume, nothing could be more divert- 
 ing. There was an orderly in attendance on a general 
 officer dwelling in our vicinity, who used to shamble 
 past our quarters every morning at a certain hour, garbed 
 in a short coatee, richly embroidered with worsted, 
 a clumsy sword, a cap and sash, and never a strap or 
 shred upon his lower limbs — saving your presence. 
 
 The Fonda de la Bolza, where you have seen us 
 lodged, was, at the time of our visit, in the hands of a 
 Frenchman. He was on the point of retiring with a 
 handsome independence drawn from divers sources: 
 to wit, the gleanings of the billiard tables below stairs-— 
 the proceeds of the miserable lodgings above, let to geia- 
 
' TAMPICO. . 2T 
 
 tlemen who could, unfortunately, not better themselves; 
 those of a bar for the dispensation of aqua ardiente^ 
 (strong waters,) lemonade, and liqueurs ; a table d'hote, 
 morning and evening, furnished with a little fish, a little 
 flesh, and a little fowl, and garnished with gizzard, tripe, 
 ox cheek, yams, black beans, and bananas ; and lastly, a 
 gaming table in a retired piazza, over which he acted as 
 presiding genius and banker. 
 
 Uncomfortable within, and environed with filth and 
 garbage without, there was little in the Fonda to keep 
 us willing prisoners ; for we happened to be addicted 
 neither to tippling nor gambling ; and our first care af- 
 ter realizing our position, was to contrive the means of 
 passing as much of our time as possible out of doors. 
 
 A few days gave us an insight into all the capabilities 
 of the spot where we were cooped up. Society, I have 
 said, was very confined. The young foreigners, when 
 emancipated from their counting houses, passed their 
 evenings in riding in the vicinity ; playing at bowls, or 
 worse, at monte ; or made an attempt to get up a waltz 
 by the aid of a poor pianoforte, a fife, and a pair of ma- 
 trons. Books and literature, or the study of natural his- 
 tory, had no votaries among them. Now and then a 
 tawdry masquerade, in which all classes mingled, was the 
 amusement of the evening ; but they were dull and stu- 
 pid as might be, and only to be surpassed in stupidity by 
 the fandangoes danced by the lower orders once or twice 
 a week, under an open thatched shed, in the outskirts of 
 the town. 
 
 By aid of sundry letters of credit, and the real kindness 
 of the gentleman who acted as English and American 
 consul, to whom we were all along greatly indebted, we 
 soon achieved the purchase of horses. They may always 
 be purchased — as to selling them, that, we found on 
 divers occasions, to be quite another affair. We also 
 hired an orderly to wait upon our donships : and set to 
 work to make such preparations for our journey into the 
 interior as were in our power, in the absence of all the 
 accoutrements purchased at New-Orleans for the purpose ; 
 ?ind nrioreover took occasion, as weather and temper in- 
 
gg TAMPICO. 
 
 vited, to garb ourselves in our best — in which you wiO 
 recollect we were not much embarrassed by variety of 
 Ghoice~to sneak out of our den at the Bolza, and ride 
 about the environs. 
 
 These rides, however, were principally confined to 
 the evening hours preceding sunset, and to the back of 
 the ridge on the San Luis Potosi road, from many of the 
 banana and sugar plantations on which line, the view over 
 the nearer lakes, and towards the distant Sierra Madre, 
 a spur of which appeared far to the southward, was un- 
 commonly beautiful. 
 
 A rocky bluff overhanging^ the Panuco, at the upper 
 end of the town just above the market, was the scene 
 of almost a daily visit, as it commanded an extended view 
 over the distant country both far and near. A little 
 above this point, the river Tammasee, draining the LagOf 
 Chairel, and many other lagoons covering a vast tract of 
 country to the westward, forms its junction with the 
 Panuco or Tula, which comes from afar, flowing in a 
 J most graceful sweep among low wooded islands from the 
 I south west. Beyond the farther shore lies the lagoon 
 of Pueblo Viego ; and farther to the south, far in the 
 distance, the fertile uplands of the Huastec, and the ad- 
 vanced spurs of the eastern Cordillera of Mexico. 
 
 There is yet a distant object, which excites the mar* 
 vel of the traveller at Tampico, and this is the Bernal, an 
 isolated mountain, rising like a huge stack, with smooth 
 perpendicular sides, and a jagged summit, over the level 
 line of the horizon to the westward. It is about thirty 
 leagues distant, if we were rightly informed. 
 
 Immediately above Tampico, the peninsula, which is 
 
 rendered such by the lagoon Carpentaro at the back of 
 
 the town, continues to rise gradually towards the west- 
 
 ward, and appears crowded by the Indian huts. They 
 
 ^ and their bamboo enclosures are nearly buried in a 
 
 \ tangled labyrinth of weed of the Solanum species, over-- 
 
 ' topped occasionally by a banana, or the tall mutilated 
 
 trunk of a yellow- wood tree. 
 
 At early morning the landing below the bluff might b@ 
 
TAMPICO. 2 
 
 observed beset by the market boats and canoes of the 
 Indians, laden with the produce of the farms of the upper 
 district— sugarcane, bamboo, hay, and fruit, or with loads 
 of sweet water brought down the Tammasee, At the 
 same hour the shore was lined by females standing up to 
 their knees in water, patiently labouring at the purifica- 
 tion of some article of apparel, in defiance of the alli- 
 gators swarming on the neighbouring swampy shore, 
 and disporting themselves in the river. Lower down, 
 abreast of the custom house, and busy market place, 
 appeared the various foreign merchant vessels at anchor ; 
 and still farther to the left, the range of hills which rise 
 above Pueblo Vicjo, and form the right bank of the Pa- 
 nuco to the gulf Nothing could exceed the picturesque | 
 appearance of many of the figures which here continu- ^ 
 ally passed before us, or the classic character of the 
 women, laden with the Etruscan-shaped water jar of the Of 
 country ; and many a time were we allured to maintain 
 our post, till the heat of the sun, and the effluvia of putrid 
 carcasses which line the shore, forced us to retire. The 
 most striking features of the same view were to be com- 
 manded from any of the farms situated to the right of the 
 St. Luis Potosi road, which, from the peculiar water-girt 
 position of the town, formed the only evening ride of all 
 the gallants of Tampico ; the road to the bar being 
 nearly impassable, on account of the state of the inter 
 vening swamps. 
 
 Every evening during this period of detention, our 
 tawdry retainer, Juliano, appeared about an hour before 
 sunset, with our horses, at the door of the Bolza, and 
 mounting, we never failed to forget the ennui of our 
 position, and the heat and annoyances of midday, in our 
 two hours' gallop amid scenes of such beauty. 
 
 But you will not be tempted to suspect that I could be, 
 with my prying disposition, in a new country, teeming 
 with novelty and wonders in natural history, without a 
 partial resumption of my wonted habit of an occasional 
 stroll on foot, in spite of heat, insects, and the robbers, 
 from whom there was of course some risk as in other 
 highly civilized countries. " What was the heat to me," 
 
 c2 
 
30 TAMPICO- 
 
 thought I, " I can bear it ; and the insects, they are what 
 I have come in search of. What are the robbers to me, 
 they will not find my present wardrobe worth cutting 
 my throat for :" so leaving my two companions to their 
 sedentary philosophy, and their siestas, which were some- 
 times taken by anticipation in the morning as well as 
 afternoon — as soon as the weather became genial, I 
 might be daily seen, after securing a breakfast, which, con- 
 sidering how doubtful the dinner was, was a very neces- 
 sary precaution, stealing off up to the bluff, and among the 
 fragile Indian huts. My accoutrement consisted of a 
 good cudgel, a long sharp knife, the same that had ope- 
 rated upon the bisons, a few thousand entomological pinSy 
 a bag for seeds, and a broad-eaved palmetto sombrero, /^ 
 
 That was certainly a species of intoxication ! All 
 was new, except the earth I trod upon — trees, shrubs, 
 plants, insects, and birds. I gathered, examined, im- 
 paled. No flower courted my admiring gaze in vain. 
 No insect hummed in my ear unattended to. If I skirted 
 the riverside — there was the garrulous jackdaw with 
 his mates quarrelling in their indescribable manner 
 among the glossy leaves and innumerable stems of the 
 mangroves ; the white snow crane standing motionless 
 in the shallow water, or a flight of vultures hovering 
 over a dark corner, where my approach had scared 
 them from a bloated carcass — not unfrequently a human 
 one. Farther, the huge slimy log, half buried in the 
 mud, crowded with terrapins ; and the loathsome alli- 
 gator squatting among the reeds on the shore. I would 
 then follow one of those narrow winding paths cut in 
 that thick dense shrubbery which covers a great portion 
 of the surface of the country in the vicinity of Tam- 
 pico — a wilderness of curious trees and thickets, matted 
 and woven together with ten thousand creepers and 
 parasitical plants, with their graceful h^ging flowers,, 
 seed vessels — vines, passifloras, and splendid convolvuli 
 rendered quite impervious by the thorny nature of the 
 covert, and the rank growth of prickly aloes which form 
 the undergrowth. These were the paradise of the par- 
 
TAMPICO, 31 
 
 rot and other gaudy rivals. Here and there, a small 
 enclosure of sugarcancj and a picturesque Indian hut, 
 would rise on the ordinary solitude of my stroll. I al- 
 ways found the pure-blooded native friendly ; and a yard 
 of sugarcane, a gourd of water, and perhaps a glass of: aqua 
 ardientCf were always at my service. For a whole week 
 I found these daily predatory walks perfectly delightful. 
 I rushed into every thicket, I culled every flower, I 
 handled everything within reach, and longed to handle 
 a great deal which was beyond it. I went wheresoever 
 I lasted, nothing doubting ; and you certainly have no sus- 
 picion of the cause which was all this time, silently but 
 surely, operating a total change in my taste, habits, and 
 pursuits. 
 
 I have described what I was the first week ; I will now 
 tell you what I was the second, and, in fact, as long as I 
 remained in the lower country. My love of locomotion 
 remained the same, but all my eagerness and fire to 
 make collections, and to touch what I saw, were utterly 
 extinguished. I walked abroad it is true, but it was with 
 the noli-me-tangere air of a spruce gentleman in a street 
 full of chimney-sweepers. My eyes roamed as they 
 had hitherto done — but as to contact with flower or 
 leaf, however curious or beautiful it might be, that I 
 most scrupulously avoided. I found it was one thing to 
 catch crickets, or gather lilies, daisies, or daffodils in 
 England, and another to make collections under the 
 tropics. 
 
 In fact, here the insects and the flowers are in league 
 for mutual defence ; every leaf, every spray holds its 
 myriads of garapatos, a species of wood bug, from the 
 size of a small pin head to that of a pea ; and the 
 slightest touch is sure to bring a host upon your person, 
 where, attaining the skin, they silently and insensibly 
 bury themselves to the neck, with their barbed claws, 
 and are seldom perceived till they are too firmly fixed to 
 extract withoilt danger ; and at the best, cause great ir- 
 ritation, and often inflammation. Now in consequence 
 of my love of natural history, I had become a perfect 
 pasture for these omniverous nuisances, with others of 
 
3*2 TAMPICO. 
 
 their confraternity, not to be described ; and at the end 
 of the term indicated^ what between the attacks of the 
 garapatos without, and the nightly wounds inflicted 
 within doors by myriads of moschetoes — which are here 
 very large and sanguinary, not quite as large as a jack- 
 snipe— 1 was upon the verge of a fever, and solemnly 
 abjured my occupation. It was nearly three weeks be- 
 fore I lost all the consequences of my imprudence, for 
 such it was, and never can I sufficiently appreciate the 
 real merit of those patient, indefatigable, and rhinoceros- 
 skinned men, who have succeeded in enriching our Eu- 
 ropean collections with the wonders of the torrid zone. 
 Such was the terror which the torment I had been 
 subjected to inspired, that, as long as we were in the 
 iierres calientes, to which these pests are fortunately con= 
 fined, I never ran unnecessary risks ; and after any ac- 
 cidental contact with tree or shrub, instituted the or° 
 dinary patient search to which all must submit. 
 
 Meantime the season advanced^ About the close of 
 the month we had begun to hope that the Halcyon might 
 make its appearance, and frequently climbed up to the 
 mirador, in one of the tallest houses, to sweep the sea- 
 line beyond the white bar with the telescope ; but alas, 
 on the 1st of February another norte set in, and another 
 week was spent in doubt and uncertainty. At length, 
 on the morning of the 7th, a favourable wind of a couple 
 of days' duration enabled a small fleet of inward-bound 
 vessels to approach the port ; and among these, the Eng- 
 lish packet, for the arrival of which a heavy cargo of 
 specie had been for some time collecting from the in- 
 terior at the consul's office ; and, late in the evening, the 
 Halcyon was announced without the bar. The follow- 
 ing day we learned that she had been buffeted to and fro 
 in the interval by two successive nortes, destitute of 
 water, but what could be gathered from the clouds ; 
 with the loss of their boat, and one of their hands ; and 
 with cabins overrun by most loathsome vermin, from the 
 vile habits of most of those on board. Further, that all 
 communication with the shore was interdicted by the 
 
FUEBLO VIEJO. g^i 
 
 custom house, till such time as the goelette's papers were 
 pronounced to be in order, in other words, till the par- 
 ties should be agreed as to the amount of the bribe de- 
 manded by the authorities for the introduction of the 
 contraband cargo. So here we were still in as great a 
 dilemma as ever. No expostulation would serve our 
 purpose for some days, and there seemed to be every 
 probability of the vessel's being again blown out to sea^ 
 before the disgraceful intrigues should come to a conclu- 
 sion, till, after much trouble and expense, we were al- 
 lowed to anticipate her only, to go on board as she lay 
 beyond the bar, and land our effects. Still difficulties 
 beset our path, and what with one thing and another, a 
 further detention of a fortnight was our destiny before 
 we were enabled to complete our arrangements, and set 
 out for the interior. The causes of this detention would 
 have been ludicrous at any other time, but in our posi- 
 tion they were serious enough. 
 
 Without entering into the detail, I may cull one or two 
 pictures from the time thus spent, as they stand recorded 
 in my memory, or on my journals. 
 
 I have casually mentioned the Pueblo Viejo, or old 
 town. It was not unfrequently our wont, on the early 
 mornings of those fervid days which filled up the intervals 
 betAsrp.en the nortfts, to hire one of the pleasant little 
 boats, which were always at your command if you would 
 pay for them, and seek under their white awnings on the 
 breezy surface of the river, that comfort which the great 
 heat of the weather denied ashore. My favourite ex-, 
 cursion was to descend the Panuco, till we made the 
 opening of the small broken channel which winds 
 between oyster beds and green verdant banks, and 
 forms the communication with the southern lagoon, upon 
 whose shore the old settlement is situated. At such times 
 the morning breeze would generally fill your sail, and 
 bring you without much labour under the little thatched 
 landing place, which, once the scene of so much bustle, 
 is now nearly deserted. 
 
 The picturesque situation of Pueblo Yiejo, and its old 
 time-worn Spanish-built houses, lying at the foot of a steeji 
 
34 PUEBLO VIEJO. 
 
 but bushy hill ; with the tranquillity reigning in the streets 
 and environs, forms a pleasant contrast to the busy, half 
 European, and more prosaic features of its more pros- 
 perous rival. The peninsular position of Tampico, ren- 
 dered it of necessity subject to a certain degree of mo- 
 notony. Here there was none ; the town was low built 
 and flat roofed, the facades of the houses mostly showing 
 in the faded gayety of their colouring, what they had 
 once been. Many had courts and porticoes, and a group 
 of tasty old houses, of Spanish erection, near the humble 
 church and in the vicinity a group of tall cocoa palmsj 
 marked the former seat of government. 
 
 Were you inclined for an hour's stroll, that hour car» 
 i.ried you up the undulating slope of the hills, amid a wil- 
 derness of sweet flowers and shrubs, pausing from time 
 to time to catch a glance of that broad and magnificent 
 picture, of those lakes and rivers with their intermediate 
 woods and plains, glowing in the sunshine, till gaining the 
 crest called ha Mira^ you might survey the country 
 spread like a map at your feet on one hand, and on the 
 other the deep blue waters of the gulf unfurled to the 
 eastern horizon. Did you seek repose and shade, a foot- 
 way, turning abruptly from the main road of the town 
 against the bosom of the hill, brought you unexpectedly 
 to the Fuenta, a little dell concealing one of the most 
 beautiful and poetic springs in any land. How poetic ! 
 how classic ! I have often exclaimed, when burying 
 myself under the shade of the trees and luxuriant creep- 
 ers, which, in untrimmed luxuriance, overhung that ro- 
 mantic paradise of birds, butterflies, and garapatos, and 
 scanning the groups of females gathered round its basin. 
 The source lay concealed underneath a massive shrine of 
 gray stone, to which convenient access was afforded by a 
 descent of a few stone steps, while a long stone reservoir, 
 extending for a dozen feet along the bank of the dell, 
 richly overshadowed by a splendid line of matted creep- 
 ers from the trees above, served the purpose of a con- 
 venient place for washing. Its margin was generally 
 crowded with females of all ages. The groups employed 
 in filling their large earthen jars and bottles, the grace^' 
 
PUEBLO VIEJO. 35 
 
 fully draped figures passing to and from, with their bur- 
 dens poised on their heads, or a sturdy peasant, with his 
 mule laden with two gigantic bottles of baked earth, 
 waiting patiently for his turn in the deep cool shade, 
 formed pictures of the most beautiful description. At 
 the extreme termination of the little dell, a few ancient 
 sibyls were ordinarily employed over a caldron sup- 
 ported by poles, and simmering from the wood fires 
 kindled under it, and the light blue smoke hovered among 
 the branches of the aged trees, which rose from the 
 thicket beyond. The Fuenta was evidently the lounge 
 and trysting place of the town, and many a youthful 
 dark-eyed gallant might be seen at times lolling upon the 
 stone wall which hemmed in the reservoir. Occasion- 
 ally a mounted cavalier in all his bravery would dash up 
 the little vista at full career, till within a foot of the en- 
 closure, when a check from the powerful bit would bring 
 his horse upon its haunches. He would pass a moment 
 in the cool shade, quaff a gourd of the fresh water from 
 the hand of one of the laughing group, perhaps get a 
 plentiful sprinkle over his gay mantle in return for some 
 saucy speech, and disappear as rapidly as he came. 
 
 In short, I shall never forget la Fuenta de Pueblo Vi- 
 ejo, though my enjoyment of its beauties was always 
 qualified by the knowledge, that I never quitted it with- 
 out carrying off a goodly colony of garapatos, besides 
 sundry ants, with which the whole country about Tam- 
 pico swarms. There is a species called the arriero or 
 carrier, from its peculiar habits, and 1 have frequently 
 been tempted to observe them minutely. Their nests 
 are formed below the surface, and must be very exten- 
 sive, judging from the immense length of the trains which 
 may be observed proceeding to and from them upon the 
 surface, and the quantity of vegetable matter introduced 
 into them. The labourers are seen moving in two dis- 
 tinct columns, strictly adhering to the rule of the road, 
 upon pathways of even breadth throughout, as nicely in- 
 dicated and beaten from the incessant passage, as those 
 of busy men. They lead frequently into the bushes, to 
 some tree or shrub, which has been fixed upon by com- 
 
36 PUEBLO VIEJO. 
 
 mon consent, for the scene of their laborious devast- 
 ation. The weight and size of the loads carried by these 
 minute insects are truly astonishing. They are furnished 
 with a strong pair of serrated forceps, with which they 
 operate upon the leaves and flowers with great force and 
 rapidity ; and that must be indeed an unaspiring denizen 
 of the little republic, who does not stagger off with a 
 cargo thrice his own bulk. 
 
 There was a small shrub of about a yard in height, 
 with bright green leaves, and pretty white jessamine- 
 shaped flowers, which I soon discovered to be a favour- 
 ite ; and the pathway leading from it to the distant hole, 
 might not inaptly be compared to a gay town promen- 
 ade on a sunny day, crowded by fine ladies armed with 
 green and white parasols, for it was difficult to distin- 
 guish the bearer under the burden which he elevated to 
 keep it out of the way of his neighbour's, or his own 
 toes. The rapidity with which they move, is withal 
 marvellous. I was more than once philosopher enough 
 to oppose a temporary obstruction to the regularity of 
 their proceedings, by placing a pebble upon the aperture 
 of the nest. You must have a lively imagination, if you 
 can fancy the scene which ensued, or conceive the hur- 
 ry, and bustle, and confusion of the increasing crowd, 
 with their gaudy burdens ; the alarm which ran like wild- 
 fire along the lines; the quarrels which ensued among 
 the impatient and short-tempered, and the busy impor- 
 tance of sundry knowing old ants, which would drop 
 their cargo, and, climbing the obstruction, take a survey 
 of the nature and extent of the evil. 
 
 Our arrangements advanced slowly, and for at least 
 ten days we had alternately to postpone and refix the 
 day of final start. 
 
 We found that the country, all El Dorado as it might 
 be to those about us, was not likely to prove so to us, for 
 the price of the most simple article was so excessive, 
 that our eyebrows and our shoulders threatened to 
 take an habitual elevation, from the constant state of 
 surprise and vexation to which we were reduced. 
 
PUEBLO VIEJO. 37 
 
 I have a bad memory, but I recollect that such a thing 
 as change for a dollar was never required ; indeed, it 
 was as much as you could do to get it for a doubloon, 
 I recollect we paid eight Spanish dollars for a ham ; and 
 that to shoe a horse, required three dollars a shoe, and 
 a dollar to a man to hold the animal's nose : though all our 
 steeds were patient as sheep, expostulation was vain- 
 such was the custom. 
 
 The heat grew more and more oppressive daily, the 
 moschetoes more bloodthirsty at evening, and more 
 knowing in their attacks upon the faulty corners of our 
 moscheto nets during the watches of the night. The 
 nights were splendid, wnth a glorious round moon beam- 
 ing on the river and on the lakes, by the light of which 
 the wild dogs on the opposite shore held most uproar- 
 ious festivals, to the utter destruction of our rest — the 
 more so, as the numerous dogs of ihe town never ceased 
 to yell in concert. 
 
 The 24th of February the heat was almost unbearable ; 
 but in the afternoon a film was drawn over the sky and 
 across the sun, and before midnight we were all shiver- 
 ing in a norte. However, we had sent our horses over 
 the river to Pueblo Viejo the preceding day, and deter- 
 mined to proceed. We left our prison about 10 a.m., 
 crossing the boiling surface of the river with our bag- 
 gage, not without danger ; after a thousand detentions, 
 finally got to horse, and on the approach of the evening, 
 in spite of the lowering sky, advanced two leagues on 
 our route inland to Tampico Alta, once, at the time of 
 the conquest, if historians lie not, a town with seventy 
 thousand inhabitants, now a village of two dozen poor 
 huts, and a small rudely built church. It is situated on a 
 high commanding bluff, within view of the gulf, and 
 rising over an upland and undulating country, carpeted 
 with magnificent shrubberies of low trees and bushes. 
 Over the general level of the vegetation, here and there 
 a gigantic banian spread its hundred arms, the resort of 
 numberless parrots ; or the high w^hite pyramidal clus- 
 ter of flowers of the Spanish palmetto rose cQnspicuous- 
 ly above the bushes. 
 
33 TAMPICO ALTA. 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 The norte continued to blow strongly the following 
 morning; and contented with having effected our es- 
 cape, and an advance of two whole leagues into the 
 country, we resolved, by common consent, to remain 
 tranquilly at Tampico Alta till we saw what another 
 day might bring forth. 
 
 We were luxuriously lodged in one of the mud cot- 
 tages, in a windowless apartment, without a stick of 
 furniture but what we brought into it. That, however, 
 was more than sufficient to fill it, as our camp beds, with 
 which we had been fortunately furnished from Europe 
 for this tour, completely occupied three fourths of the 
 floor. 
 
 So here we abode, leaving our retainers, whose num- 
 ber had now increased to five in all, to make the most 
 of the halt with the horses and mules under their care. 
 We breakfasted and supped upon tortillas or maize 
 cakes, fowls, Chili pepper, rice, coffee, and frijoles or 
 black beans ; with the addition of an agreeable liquor, 
 made of the fermented juice of the sugarcane. We 
 looked to our accoutrements, cleaned guns and pistols, 
 strolled in the forest, and at night enjoyed the most lux- 
 urious rest, in our clean and well-appointed beds ; and 
 blessed our stars, that we had turned our backs for ever 
 upon the Halcyon, the Fonda de la Bolza — the heat, the 
 impurities, and the nuisances of Tampico. Dull as it 
 was without doors, I could not help strolling about, for 
 a few hours, among the low woods, and did not fail, in 
 spite of all my care, to gather a plentiful harvest of ^a- 
 rapatoes, to rid myself from which gave me an hour's 
 employment in the evening. 
 
 The following day, however, we were up betimes, and 
 set seriously forward. 
 
TAMPICO ALTA. 39 
 
 The ordinary road from Tampico to the capital is a 
 very circuitous one, passing by the towns of San Luis 
 Potisi, Zacatecas, and Guanaxuato ; and we had decided 
 to leave it far to the right or northwest : pursuing as 
 an alternative the more direct, more difficult, but far 
 more picturesque mule track of the Canada. 
 
 I may here, without offending you, bring to your recol- 
 lection thus much of the physical geography of the re- 
 markable country which was now the scene of our ram- 
 bles ; namely, that its peculiar geological structure admits 
 of its surface being divided into three distinct parts — the 
 tierras calientes, tierras templadas, and tierras frias. 
 The first, the hot districts, lying on the Pacific and Atlan- 
 tic border, and in greater or less contiguity to the sea, 
 are fertile in sugar, indigo, bananas, and cotton ; and ex- 
 hibit all the phenomena of the tropics. The second, the 
 temperate lands, forming a zone of mountains and broad 
 plains of four or five thousand feet elevation, are blessed 
 with a climate of rare beauty, and favourable to many of 
 the productions of our milder latitudes, while the third, the 
 cold regions, occupying the central table land of the high 
 Cordillera, are exposed to greater vicissitudes of heat and 
 cold, and overlooked by the highest summits of the 
 Mexican chain, rising into the region of eternal snow. 
 Our progress from Tampico to the capital, which lies at 
 an elevation of upward of seven thousand feet above the 
 gulfj would accordingly give us a glance at each in turn. 
 
 As our line of route has not been often described, I 
 will give you as much detail as I am able. The in- 
 correctness of the best maps, and the difficulty of getting 
 two people of the country to agree in assigning the same 
 relative position to any given town or remarkable object 
 beyond the bare line of the route, must necessarily throw 
 a degree of indistinctness over my narration. 
 
 Imagine us, then, mounted and setting forward from 
 our homely quarters at Tampico Alta, like gentle knights, 
 attended by our string of sumpter mules and serving men. 
 I flatter myself that to a peaceful looker-on we afforded 
 a gallant spectacle, and that our motley contrasted well 
 
40 TAMPICO ALTA. 
 
 with the wild country into which we immediately plunged ; 
 while, in the eye of the predatory spectator, there was 
 that in the glitter of our arms and the resolute look of the 
 party which must have commanded respect, and quelled 
 the desire of plunder. But that you may better judge 
 yourselfj I present you with the following extract from 
 our muster roll. 
 
 In advance rode Don Alberto, Don Carlos, and Don 
 Carlos Jose, mounted upon three steeds of doubtful ped- 
 igree — Blanco, Rosso, and Pinto, which had been kindly 
 pressed upon our purchase by worthy acquaintances in 
 Tampico, as possessing a thousand virtues, fitting them 
 for the peculiar purpose for which we required tliem, 
 and no faults but such as were to be absolutely of no ac- 
 count to us. When they dozed — -v/hich was often — the 
 prick of the enormous Spanish spurs which jingled at our 
 heels incited them to action ; and when once upon a time 
 we found them too lively, the pressure of the powerful 
 Spanish bit soon reduced them to order. For the jour- 
 ney we preferred using the European saddle rather than 
 the Mexican, and had accordingly included them in our 
 purchases in New-Orleans. 
 
 We were all armed with holster pistols and sabres, to 
 which Pourtales and myself added our double-barrelled 
 guns. M'Euen had furnished himself in New Orleans 
 with a formidable dragoon sabre of such length that it 
 quite put the light curved cimeters of his companions to 
 the blush. Our costume was a marvellous mixture of 
 European and Mexican ; the serape, the sombrero with 
 its silver band, the scarlet sash, and jacket of the latter 
 having been adopted, while the residue of the male out- 
 fit was European. 
 
 Our train was very long, and composed as follows : 
 Two armed and mounted, ill-looking serving men, clad 
 in the costume of their country, by name Juliano and 
 Miguel— rogues both. The former had now been our 
 equery and valet for a month. He was a smooth-look- 
 ing varlet, with a soft voice, small and active person and 
 habits. Now that he had money, there was an affecta- 
 tion of spruce trimness in his clothing. Be was in all a 
 
TAMPICO ALTA. 4J 
 
 perfect contrast to his comrade — a huge-boned, powerful 
 man, with strongly marked features, half shrouded by a 
 mass of tangled black locks ; and who, we all agreed, 
 would form the finest study in the world for a bandit. 
 We never liked him or his looks, or his deep churchyard 
 cough ; but necessity has no law. They were both 
 armed with rusty sabres ; and Juliano had, moreover, 
 stolen an unwieldy carbine from some dear confiding 
 friend of his, and was wont to speak most confidently of 
 his valour, and of the execution he was to perform in 
 case of our being attacked by banditti, which was all 
 along spoken of as a more than probable event. He had 
 thrown us into convulsions of laughter at the very outset, 
 at Pueblo Viejo, by a preliminary discharge of the 
 mighty engine, which he had seen fit to indulge in pre- 
 vious to the real battle which he expected, when we saw 
 his diminutive person fairly overthrown by the recoil. 
 
 JNext in the train came Don Juan Espindola of Za- 
 cualtipan, the arriero ; whom we had hired with a train 
 of eight mules, to convey us and our baggage to the cap- 
 ital. He was a worthy man ; and true, faithful and 
 simple in manners, like most of his class. Our con- 
 fidence in him was well placed. 
 
 The arriero is the carrier of New Spain, and the little 
 honesty and uprightness to be found in the country, seem 
 to have fallen exclusively to the share of those of his 
 rank and profession. The most precious commodities 
 are unhesitatingly delivered to his care, merely enclosed 
 in bags for conveyance to the coast, and the aiTiero 
 never fails to perform his contract. Espindola had come 
 down to Tampico, with a conducta ; and there we en- 
 gaged him for the return, with as many of his mules as 
 were necessary. The remainder were sent in advance 
 under his domestics or mozos, two of whom, how^ever, 
 accompanied us on foot as whippers-in ; and fine, active 
 lads they were. In ihem the Indian blood predominated 
 over the European. The arrieio had, with our concur- 
 rence, invited a certain friend of his, Don Gaetano, to 
 accompany us, and to take advantage of our escort. To 
 this arrangement we acceded with the more readiness^ 
 
 d2 
 
42 I-A MESSA. 
 
 as, though evidently of a most unwarlike character, he 
 added another to our number ; and had moreover been 
 one of our fellow-prisoners in the Halcyon. I should 
 still mention two saddle mules ; and then sum up our 
 forces, as consisting, in all, of nine souls and seventeen 
 quadrupeds. Whatever may have been the inirinsie 
 value of our pluck, we certainly cut a rather imposing 
 figure. 
 
 Till we should arrive at the town of Zacualtipan^ 
 within four or five days' journey of the capital, there was 
 nothing to fear from banditti, if common report spoke 
 truly. 
 
 Thus, you may imagine us, when once in motion on 
 the morning of our quitting Tampico Alta, proceeding 
 league after league, under any easy pace, through that 
 beautiful undulating country, clothed with its gorgeous 
 flowering thickets, to which 1 have already alluded. 
 Many an expression of admiration burst from us as anew 
 bird or splendid flower attracted our at tention. An 
 occasional shot hazarded at a rabbit or pheasant, alone 
 broke the silence which reigned over this waste but 
 beautiful region. After about seven leagues' ride, we 
 halted for two hours at a rancho, or farm, (or our break- 
 fast of cabbage palm, salad, and eggs. Poor fare, you 
 would say ; but, truth compeUing, I must admit that sun- 
 dry additions were supplied from our travelling stores, 
 and to name them would at once let you into the secret, 
 that, however warlike, we were not to be classed with 
 those doughty warriors of old, who had " no stomach 
 but to fight." 
 
 From the vicinity of this farm, the undulating country 
 for many miles became perfectly open, totally denuded 
 of bushes, though occasionally studded witli bands of 
 thick forest, and altogether reminded us strongly of the 
 great prairies, till about sunset, when we gained a swell- 
 ing elevation aflfording a wide view towards the east. 
 In that quarter the vast Laguna Tammiagua, only sep- 
 arated from the gulf by a narrow band of sand hills, 
 extended as far as the eye could reach. 
 
 Shortly after, we arrived at a large hacienda, called 
 
LA MESSA. 43 
 
 La Messa, situated on a commancling eminence, at the 
 edge of prairie country alluded to, and overlooking, to 
 the south, a deep glen full of wood, and a far-stretching 
 expanse of roundish hills covered with luxuriant vegeta- 
 tion. 
 
 In the absence of more regular places of entertain- 
 ment, the custom of the country authorizes the traveller 
 to make his halt with his retinue at the first farm which 
 may suit his convenience ; and though the hacienda is 
 in general the country residence of a rich and wealthy 
 proprietor, we felt no scruple in dismounting and asking 
 shelter and provender for ourselves and our party. 
 
 And here i have to record one of those strange ren- 
 counters which the Rambler has sometimes to note upon 
 his tablets in utter amazement how they are brought 
 about. 
 
 On riding round the corner of one of the principal 
 buildings, what was my surprise to see my friend Pour- 
 tales folded in the embrace of a huge brawny young 
 Mexican — and yet greater to find, on dismounting, that I 
 was to be honoured with a fraternal squeeze from the 
 same arms, before I could see what face there might 
 possibly be appended to them. I was not long, how- 
 ever, in recognising in the athletic, sunburnt young man, 
 who thus welcomed us to his home, a certain smooth- 
 faced, ungainly stripling, who had been our fellow-pas- 
 senger two years before, in the New York packet, from 
 Havre de Grace to America. He had been sent from 
 Mexico to Paris, to be instructed in the language, litera- 
 ture, and manners of the politest country in Europe ; 
 and, at that epoch, having finished his term of educationj 
 was returning with his bundle of acquisitions, to en- 
 lighten his benighted countrymen. On shipboard, where 
 he was generally known by a singular sobriquet be- 
 stowed on him by my lig-ht-minded companion, namely, 
 " Amiable et execrable Tamjnco,^^ we had of course made 
 acquaintance. We found that he had learned to eat 
 with a knife and fork, to dress like a civilized man, to 
 talk a little bad French ; to dance, and to play the 
 monkey, which he did a merveille, clumsily aping Pour- 
 
44 LA MESSA. 
 
 tales in his various changes of costume, and his whimsical 
 contrivances for banishing ennui ; and emulating the 
 sailors in their expeditions to the top-gallant- mast head. 
 After landing, we had lost sight of him. We heard, 
 however, that he had been delivered up by the captain 
 with a regular bill of lading to the Mexican consul at 
 New York, and to his utter dismay and disappointment, 
 not being considered accomplished enough, had been sent 
 to a " finishing academy" in Pennsylvania. Many adven- 
 tures, and the multitude of strange personages with whom 
 we had come in contact during the rambles of the two 
 past years, had driven him out of our remembrance, till 
 most unexpectedly we found his two long, Indian-shaped 
 arms locked round our necks at La Messa, a brown 
 athletic Mexican, utterly forgetful of all the polite edu- 
 cation he had undergone, curbing a wild horse, and 
 hunting a wilder leopard. He seemed to be absorbed in 
 his hunting schemes ; and, instead of a collection of 
 books, valued himself upon the number of lion, ounce, 
 and wildcat skins which decorated his apartment. His 
 thin and meager French was richly larded with noble 
 sounding Spanish words and phrases ; but we contrived 
 to converse about old and new times. 
 
 La Messa, the property of his uncle, to whom he 
 seemed to be considered as future heir, was the centre 
 of a vast estate stretching many leagues on every side. 
 
 From the specimen before us, however, nothing could 
 exceed the poor homely style and rough living of these 
 wealthy proprietors at a distance from the capital. 
 
 Our evening meal, which we were invited to take with 
 the family, was a sleepy entertainment, in which we tast- 
 ed nothing but the burning Chile or red pepper with 
 which every dish was seasoned ; and that done, we all 
 packed together with Aimable et execrahle Tampico into 
 a small apartment, where, fortunately, the cold air of the 
 norte, which was still blowing, prevented us from being 
 at once suffocated by heat, and bitten to madness by the 
 moschetoes. 
 
 The following morning, after a loving adieu from our 
 
OSUHUAMA. 45 
 
 acquaintance who left the rancho at dawn to johi in a 
 tiger hunt in a distant part of the country, we continued 
 our journey to the southward. 
 
 Our route led us down into the dell below La Messa, 
 and over the hillside opposite, till we entered a broad, 
 green glade, stretching tlirough the forest for some miles 
 to the foot of the eminences upon which the large Indian 
 village of Osuhuama is situated. We were quite unpre- 
 pared for the vast panoramic view which unrolled itself 
 to our view from the summit of a liigh conical mound, 
 perched on the very edge of the declivity, widi which 
 this, the first step as it were of the higher country, breaks 
 down to the general level of the country in the vicinity 
 of the coasts. 
 
 The village, with its picturesque huts and enclosures 
 of bamboo, and little patches of cultivation, lies scat- 
 tered over the ridges of a number of broken hills. The 
 church is nearly on the highest point, and directly at the 
 foot of the mound whose form and position, in defiance 
 of its size, would suggest the idea of its being artificial. 
 
 Any description of the wide view to the north, west, 
 and east, comprising in the latter direction the Laguna 
 Tammiagua, and fading to the apparently illimitable 
 horizon, would be utterly impossible. The slope of the 
 hills displayed a wilderness of rank vegetation. To the 
 south rose several groups of conical hills, in advance of 
 the more distant chain to which we were gradually ap- 
 proaching. 
 
 The afternoon's march brought us some leagues on 
 our road over an undulating country, covered for the 
 most part with forests of palmetto ; and we took up our 
 night's quarters at a poor rancho, tenanted by an old 
 woman, and, unfortunately for us, preoccupied by a 
 gambling party, whose drunken and lawless demeanour 
 was sufficiently offensive and menacing to keep us in 
 hot water for some hours ; when they were pleased to 
 take their departure : relieving us from the necessity of 
 either blowing out their brains, or being ourselves 
 stabbed ; a choice of evils truly, but one which appeared 
 for a while almost inevitable. 
 
46 THE INDIAN HUT. 
 
 The night was gloomy ; and the mountains in ad- 
 vance half shrouded by curtains of dark clouds. I have 
 a disagreeable recollection of the whole scene. I re- 
 member, however, that both amusement, interest, and 
 surprise, were excited in us by three distinct circumstan- 
 ces : amusement at the extravagant joy and pride of 
 heart evinced by Juliano, when a rabbit was killed with 
 his mighty carbine, by Espindola ; interest at the visit of 
 two fine boys, lineal descendants of Montezuma, from a 
 a neighbouring rancho ; and surprise at the fact being 
 mentioned to us, that the father of an old gallant who 
 was the leader of the debauchees before named, was at 
 that hour in sound health at the next hacienda, at the 
 age of one hundred and twenty years. This rancho lay 
 twenty-four leagues from Pueblo Viejo. 
 
 March the firsts we proceeded through the same bro- 
 ken line of country. Some difficulty was experienced 
 from our being several times entangled in jungles of 
 bamboo, and in muddy swamps, or thick natural groves 
 of lemon and orange trees ; till two o'clock in the after- 
 noon, when the country became more open, and finding 
 a poor Indian hut, beautifully situated, we halted to 
 breakfast, and to repose ourselves and our animals. The 
 cabin was constructed of light bamboo frames, thatched 
 with palmetto leaves not only on the roof but the sides, 
 and divided into two or three compartments, with coarse 
 screens of grass matting. 
 
 The inhabitants were all of the softer sex ; consisting 
 /of three young maidens, under the surveillance of two 
 most forbidding crones. We here, if I recollect right, 
 made our first experience of the difficulty to which the 
 traveller is exposed in Mexico, in persuading the Indian 
 to furnish him, even if paid in advance, with the slightest 
 food or provender either for man or beast. Nothing 
 was to be had. No hai I was the answer to every 
 query. They had neither maize, nor chocolate, nor 
 fodder, nor eggs, nor fowls ; nor bananas, wovfrijoles^noY 
 tortillas, nor dried meat, nor even Chile. What did they 
 live upon — for they were all, old and young, as plump as 
 partridges. No hai ! was the only word you could ex- 
 
THE INDIAN HUT, 47 
 
 tort. However, there was no alternative ; our animals 
 must rest, if they might not eat ; and we consequently 
 unsaddled, and began to amuse ourselves, as we might, 
 in looking at the bone of our costly ham, and the pounded 
 contents of our biscuit bag, more especially as Espindola 
 whispered to us to have a little patience. Five minutes 
 passed by, and not a word was said. A packet of cigar- 
 itas was produced and passed round. What the old 
 Venuses did not refuse, the young ones thought proper 
 to accept. Espindola got into conversation by degrees 
 with one of the elders, and Pourtales began to play the 
 <; irresistible j^^ with another of the party. Good humour 
 and confidence began to thaw distrust, and conquer pre- 
 judice. By-and-by, old and young began to move list- 
 lessly about. The charcoal fire was stirred up. Still 
 there was no hurry. Another moment, and from under 
 a cloth in a dark corner of the hut, the stone used in the 
 preparation of tortillas cakes was produced ; and, as 
 though by accident, a bowlful of maize flour was dis- 
 covered. As it was there, one of the old squaws fell to 
 work to knead the bread ; while the other, after looking 
 very carefully about her, found a store of Chile and a bag 
 offrijoles. This was not all. A guttural parley in their 
 own language was followed by one of the girls stepping 
 out with Espindola to a secret storehouse, from which 
 he returned looking very sly with his arms full of rich 
 golden ears of maize, and a bundle of fodder. By acci- 
 dent, a little loophole in the same quarter flew open, and 
 th<3 premises were immediately overrun by a quantity of 
 poultry, rejoicing at their emancipation from the thral- 
 dom to which they had evidently been subjected on our 
 approach. More wonderful than all, we found that, ap- 
 parently, quite unsuspected by the possessors, the hens 
 had employed their time while thus hidden from the 
 light of day in tlie production of a dozen fine eggs. In 
 short, within an hour after the hut had been at the ex- 
 tremity of famine, we were furnished with an excellent 
 meal, and there were no signs at our departure that we 
 left discontent behind us. This is strange, but nothing 
 but what is very comprehensible ; being a remnant of 
 
48 SANTA CATHARTNA. 
 
 old times and old policy, when, in consequence of the 
 Spaniard's taking what he could find, without paymentj 
 the poor Indian always contrived to have nothing. 
 
 The lesson was not lost upon us ; and, ever after, 
 what between civility, affected indifference, and content, 
 a timely use of cigaritas and soft w^ords, we never had 
 to leave an Indian hut unsatisfied. 
 
 In the course of the evening, after passing through the 
 noblest forests of live oak we had yet seen in the coun- 
 try ; or over moist levels, where almost impenetrable 
 thickets of bamboo cane clustered round the huge fan- 
 tastic trunks of the banian ; and ten thousand vegetable 
 strings and ropes wove a canopy overhead, we reached 
 the Indian village of Santa Catharina, whose situation 
 on an elevated plateau vies for beauty with that of its 
 rival just described. We did not halt here, however, 
 but pushing on over a fatiguing line of country by a 
 deep miry track, came to a halt at a large and roomy 
 rancho, where we found the needful accommodation, 
 and the rest w^hich a heavy day's journey of eighteen 
 leagues made very welcome to our draggled train. A 
 few miles to the left, rose a range of mountains covered 
 with foliage to the very summit, and with singularly 
 pointed and rnsolated rocks rising at intervals from their 
 base. 
 
 I pass rapidly over the next day's march, which lay/ 
 across much the same kind of country, picturesque in the 
 highest degree, from the broken character of the surface 
 and from the rich and redundant character of the vege- 
 tation. From the occasional bare ridges which we sur- 
 mounted, we continued to command most extensive 
 views over the Huastec, as the rich county at the foot 
 of the higher chain is called. This part of the state of 
 Vera Cruz, is, throughout, very thinly inhabited, and cul- 
 tivation very sparingly applied to its surface. Indeed the 
 cholera of the preceding year had swept away a large 
 proportion of the Indian population ; and one extensive 
 Indian village, at which we halted at noon, magnificently 
 situated like all its neighbours, was nearly depopulated 
 by its ravages. 
 
THE HACIENDA. 49 
 
 Tip to the dose of this day, when, after passing over 
 another tract of country covered with palm forest, we 
 halted at a large and rich hacienda, about four leagues 
 from the foot of the branch of the Sierra Madra in whose 
 recesses we were to seek the bed of the Rio de la Cana- 
 da, as our future guide — we had seemingly surmounted 
 no very considerable elevation, but had continually as- 
 cended and descended the abrupt hills which appear to 
 be heaped in picturesque confusion over a large tract of 
 country between the coast and the foot of the main 
 ranges. Occasionally, higher summits of evident volcanic 
 origin are seen to rise from their bosom, but these are 
 mostly isolated ; and though we had certainly been 
 gradually rising ever since we left Tampico, it was not 
 till we had advanced full fifty leagues from the coast 
 that we gained the foot of the. foremost spur of the Cor- 
 dillera. Of course the whole of the country passed 
 through belongs to the iierras calientes. 
 
 The hacienda where we lodged on the evening of the 
 fourth day's march from Tampico Alta, was situated on 
 a plain very near the foot of the mountain. It has prin- 
 cipally notched itself upon my memory, from the mag- 
 nificent, free-standing banian trees in its vicinity, several 
 of which measured upward of thirty feet in circum- 
 ference. Here we were, as usual, well treated, paying 
 moderately for whatever necessaries we were furnished 
 with. 
 
 Deep clouds restingon all the ridges in advance boded 
 no good for the continuation of our journey the following 
 morning. Indeed, it began to drizzle before our train 
 could be set in motion ; nevertheless, we flattered our- 
 selves that we might at least reach Chicontepec, the 
 City on Seven Hills, which lay on the mountains rising 
 before us at four leagues' distance. 
 
 After two hours' ride, our mule path sank from the 
 open hilly country into a deep glen strewed with rounded 
 blocks of stone, which indicated that in the rainy sea- 
 son it formed the bed of one of those torrents which, 
 fed by the waters filtering through the porous structure 
 of the mountains and table land above them, spring into 
 
50 CHICONTEPEC. 
 
 existence and roll down on their short but furious course 
 to the gulf. 
 
 It was just at this period of our journey, when toiling 
 over the broken ground, amid the green twilight shed 
 into the deep defile through an almost impervious cano- 
 py of the most gigantic forest trees, covered from the 
 foot to the topmost twig with lithe creepers and enor- 
 mous parasites, that the rain, which had now^ menaced 
 for several days, began to descend upon us in torrents. 
 If there was wind, we were not sensible of it at this 
 depth ; but the rain poured perpendicularly down, as 
 from a water spout. At the same time every object be- 
 came shrouded in mist. We nevertheless dragged our- 
 selves forward, till it appeared as though the vale termi- 
 nated in a cul de sac against the precipitous but forested 
 side of the mountain, when a sudden turn was given to 
 the track, and following it, it began to ascend to the right, 
 by a steep zigzag mule path. Climbing and dragging 
 our spent horses after us, we surmounted one turn after 
 another, till we thought that we should never arrive at 
 the last. There was no sign of our gaining the summit. 
 Whenever the mist rose or shifted for an instant, we 
 caught a glimpse of the steep flanks of the mountain to 
 the left, which seemed but a stone's throw distant. At 
 length, after nearly two hours' climb, we suddenly reached 
 the plateau, and entered the principal street of Chi- 
 contepec. At this elevation we were above the region 
 of the rain, and nearly above that of the clouds, for the 
 mist was driving and thin, and an occasional gleam of 
 sunshine gave us a glimpse of the objects around. The 
 houses were much more substantial than any we had 
 seen in the lower country, and a large church with a 
 tower rose above a declivity we had surmounted. At 
 what elevation Chicontepec is situated,! cannot guess, but 
 it must be considerable. It is quite on the barren rocky 
 crest of the mountains, which should be seven in number, 
 according to the interpretation of the name ; and must 
 command a view of great extent, but of which we saw 
 nothing. After some trouble we discovered a poor meson, 
 where we were allowed to dry and refresh ourselves. 
 
CHICONTEPECo 5| 
 
 As to the mules, it was long before we saw them all ar- 
 rive, and became reassured that one or other, with his 
 precious load, had not capsized, or missed his way. Juli- 
 ano and the two mozos had been faithful to their trust ; 
 but as to Miguel, we could hear nothing of him ; and it 
 was not till a couple of hours had gone by, and long after 
 Espindola, finding there was no fodder here, had gone 
 forward with the mules, leaving Juliano to escort us, that 
 we heard from a passer-by, that he had been seen lying 
 by the roadside many miles back. " Un horrachioP'' (a 
 drunkard 1) said Juliano, with a significant shrug of his 
 shoulders ; always willing to throw odium on his fellow, 
 and to contrast his own conduct, whenever it happened 
 to be more correct, with that of his less crafty chum. 
 
 After a ride of many hours over difficult and steep 
 ridges, and through close but fertile valleys under partial 
 cultivation — often enveloped in mist, and continually a 
 prey to doubt as to our ever finding our arriero — we at 
 length stumbled upon him at the edge of dusk, tending 
 his mules at an humble rancho, in a pretty valley nestled 
 in the mountains. And here we brought our wet and 
 fatiguing day's journey to a close, by erecting our camp 
 beds under an open palmetto shed, drying our accoutre- 
 ments as well as might be, enjoying our frugal meal, and 
 betaking ourselves to repose. 
 
 At bedtime there were no signs of our borrachio ; 
 but in the middle of the night we found he had returned 
 to his duty, as his churchyard cough was heard issuing 
 from a shed on the premises. 
 
 The weather seemed now to have done its worst, and 
 a cloudless dawn heralded forth a bright sunny day ; 
 how bright — how sunny — and how beautiful — amid such 
 magnificent foliage and flowers, no pen can describe \ 
 In brief, you will hear no more of clouds for some days 
 to come. 
 
 At noon, after traversing one considerable stream, we 
 at length reached the valley of the Rio de la Canada, a 
 clear river, occupying at this time of the year but a small 
 
5^ THE CANADA- 
 
 portion of the rock-strewn bed which overspreads a large 
 extent of the low grounds. It is a tribotary of the Tula^ 
 if my surmise is right. At the point where our pathway 
 came upon it, the vale was comparatively open and spa- 
 cious, though surrounded by mountains of considerable 
 elevation, and tliere was much in the whole landscape 
 which brought the scenery of the Italian Alpine valleys 
 to my recollection ; but four or five leagues higher up, 
 shortly after the traveller has passed a large hacienda 
 belonging to a wealthy cura on the left bank, it con- 
 tracts ; and, for the succeeding thirty or forty miles^ 
 takes that peculiar character which has given a name to 
 the river. 
 
 The fifth and sixth of March were occupied in advan^ 
 cing from the priest's country seat, slowly up the magnifi- 
 cent ravine, on a rough mule path, worn by the numer- 
 ous conducla, with which this is one way of descent from 
 the table land above ; threading thickets which strug- 
 gled with the limpid mountain stream for possession of 
 the chasm, and often riding along the bed of the riverj 
 which I believe had to be crossed considerably above a 
 hundred times. 
 
 We considered the scenery of the Canada superior to 
 any we had ever seen, comparable to it — and we were, 
 as you know, no novices in mountain defiles, I nowhere 
 met with the sublimity of an Alpine mountain gorge on 
 a great scale, clothed with such beauty. A varied veg- 
 etation, stimulated by the alternate vehemence of a trop- 
 ical sun, and the gentle dews and moist showers from 
 the mountains above, into an inconceivable rankness and 
 richness of growth — all that is beautiful and gorgeous in 
 colouring and curious in detail — birds, butterflies, in- 
 sects, fruits, and flowers — are here presented to the eyes 
 of the traveller, in the midst of a chaos of rent and riven 
 rock and dizzy precipice, which would be worthy of the 
 most savage defile of the most savage Alpine districts of 
 Europe. No one who has not beheld with his own eyes, 
 can imagine the vigour with which nature puts forth her 
 strength under this incitement from alternate heat and 
 moisture. 
 
THE CANADA. 53 
 
 League after league we moved forward in ecstasy. 
 Every turn disclosed another matchless picture. It was 
 here a grove of old and shattered trees of enormous 
 growth bent over the surface of the river under the load 
 of moss and flowering parasites which drew nourishment 
 and life from their fibres ; their outstretched arms, strug- 
 gling, as it were, in the interminable folds of the vines 
 and creepers, whose festoons and garlands of flowers, 
 fruit, or pods, entwined every bough to the highest 
 twig. There again rose a thicket of flowering shrubs 
 of all hues, glistening in morning dew, over which the 
 insects and butterflies were gloating in the bright sun ; 
 and such butterflies — the rainbow is dull and colourless 
 in comparison ! 
 
 Farther, the high gray precipice swept down perpen- 
 dicularly, with its red, purple, and gray hues, innumer- 
 able weather stains, and lichens, reflected in the still sur- 
 face of the stream ; while its sheets of bare rock unveiled 
 to the gaze of the passer-by, in the hundreds of thin 
 strata, twisted, broken, entwined, and distorted into a 
 thousand shapes, a page of nature's secret doings, which 
 could not be contemplated without a feeling of awe. 
 The upper portions of the precipices, where they broke 
 down from the forested slope of the mountains above, 
 were frequently overgrown with long strings of strong 
 wiry grass, or by a peculiar species of cactus which rose 
 like a whitish green column perpendicularly from the 
 ledges. 
 
 Then came the little opening at the entrance of some 
 lateral valley, with its Indian hamlet, strips of cultiva- 
 tion fully exposed to the broad sun, and groups of rich 
 and sunny bananas, half shrouding the simple cabins of 
 the poor natives: or, as a contrast, one of those dens 
 of rubbish, situated under the shade of a beetling crag, 
 in which everything seemed devoted to putrid destruc- 
 tion ; where you moved in twilight through a mass of 
 decaying vegetation ; where no living thing sported, and 
 the passenger breathed the chill and humid damp of 
 death, rottenness, and decay. 
 
 e2 
 
54 TLACOLULA, 
 
 Four or five leagues from the entrance of the gorge^ 
 the signs of that tremendous convulsion, which has burst 
 this channel through the heart of the mountains, are 
 perfectly bewildering. The thin, laminated strata are 
 broken and twisted in every possible manner ; and the 
 river, which had never failed us in the earlier part of our 
 journey, but had formed an abundant stream flowing in 
 a chain of alternate rapids or lucid pools, was found to 
 have totally disappeared, pursuing for some distance a 
 subterraneous course below the surface. Soon after^ 
 however, we found ourselves again on its banks, and 
 early on the afternoon of the first day emerged from the 
 ravine which I have attempted to describe, and ap- 
 proached the great opening, wherein the Indian village 
 of Tlacolula lies surrounded by its orange groves and 
 pretty cultivated enclosures. 
 
 This was by far the most important Indian village we 
 had seen, though perhaps not the largest, and we found 
 that the population was partly engaged in the manufacture 
 of the cotton cloth which serves as a reboso, or veil for 
 the upper part of the person, of the common people 
 throughout Mexico. They are woven in a rudely con- 
 structed loom. 
 
 We here passed a long evening, bathing in the rivcFj 
 examining whatever was curious — among which we 
 may mention a pretty crystal cascade directly opposite 
 our quarters in one of the palmetto-thatched huts of the 
 village — and in arguing whether it was lawful or unlaw- 
 ful to shoot a monkey. Several of these animals, of the 
 ]ong-tailed yellow and black species, had been descried 
 in the ravine at their avocations, much to our amuse- 
 ment. Pourtales, however, who remembered the de- 
 lights of strange meats — such as skunk, racoon, and 
 prairie dogs on the great prairies, and whose philosophy 
 was anything but Pythagorean or Braminical, had been 
 in a perfect fever for a taste of the long-armed gentry, 
 and I believed had actually fired a shot or two, which 
 the objects of his aim had contrived to dodge. M'Euen 
 and myself took him to task, for to us it appeared that 
 
TLACOLULA. 55 
 
 he was guilty of having meditated the most culpable 
 homicide. For my part they looked to me far too much 
 like distant family connections, to allow me for an instant 
 to harbour the wish of taking away their lives. 
 
 The church of Tlacolula, a dingy stone structure, stands 
 prominently in the middle of the valley. 
 
 These Indian villages, though they have ostensibly the 
 power of self-government in matters relating to them- 
 selves, as the alcades and other petty functionaries are 
 appointed from the inhabitants, are in fact governed by 
 the priest, who here, as elsewhere, is of the mixed race ; 
 and a fiery, fagot-bearing, heretic-hating, determined, 
 beetle-browed clerk, we found the Cura of Tlacolula to 
 be. 1 thought him very much inclined to act the in- 
 quisitor with us, till he discovered that we were ex- 
 tremely inoffensive and civilly inclined, and able to fur- 
 nish him with a bonus of percussion caps, which he 
 greedily coveted and obtained, after which he gave us 
 his blessing, and left us to pass the night in peace.* 
 
 So far we had come v^ithout any great degree of 
 trouble, or any more serious contretems than such as 
 we might well have expected. Our preconceived good 
 opinion of Espindola had never been shaken for an in- 
 stant ; and our respect for and our confidence in him 
 grew day by day. His mules, though of various tempers, 
 were strong and good, and did their work well. He 
 generally led the youngest and giddiest by the lasso, and 
 the rest followed in their order. The art of packing 
 a mule is quite a science ; and it was singular to see, 
 how, after the first day's trial — when the trial was made, 
 which of the heterogeneous and multiform objects com- 
 posing our baggage would ride best in company, or were 
 
 * There exists more than one mode of reaching the village of Tlaco- 
 lula from Tarapico ; and I am inclined to think a yet shorter than that 
 described, viz., by Los Huevas, the village of Tantayancaand La Pesca, 
 which, by the calculation of the author of " Notes on Mexico," brings 
 you here in seven days, and after a journey of fifty-three leagues. 
 
 We had been up to this evening also seven days on the road from 
 Tampico Alta, and had come, by our arriero's computation, fifty-nine 
 leagues. But our object v/as to go the most picturesque road, and that 
 we undoubtedly did. 
 
56 TLACOLULA. 
 
 suited to the strength of the individual — how everything 
 went by rule and square, and how seldom anything went 
 wrong. The Mexican pack saddle would seem in itself 
 to be a burden. A considerable variety is shown in the 
 leather furniture, which is often embossed and embroi- 
 dered in red and yellow, in addition to a name such as 
 Bamonos, Aboho, Mejico. These names, however, may 
 be said to belong more to the suit of harness than, as 
 might be supposed, to the animal wearing it. 
 
 Once packed, and in motion, off the mules marched in 
 Indian file ; one pacing under the mountainous load of 
 the camp beds, another laden with two portmanteaus, 
 a third with carpet bags and canteen, and so forth, while 
 the last scampered after liis fellows with the odds and 
 ends belonging to our travelling kitchen, often to the 
 great danger of the pans which dangled from his sides. 
 
 On arrival at our place of repose they were unladen, 
 and every set of furniture carefully arranged by itself in 
 the most precise and exact order, while the emancipated 
 animals made use of the first moment of liberty to in- 
 dulge in a hearty shake, or rolls in the dust, followed up 
 by that brief sententious bray, by which the mule ex- 
 presses his feelings, in contradistinction to the full, round, 
 sonorous, and protracted descant of his mother ass. 
 
 Old Bamanos, or *' Let-us-be-jogging,'' was the most 
 trusted, the most sapient, and the most morose of the 
 train ; and occasionally bestowed a brace of resounding 
 kicks upon the hollow sides of Abobo, or another of his 
 brethren, when he saw them in possession of a bush or 
 pasture of particular succulence. He was the leader of 
 the unled, and ordinarily followed his master. 
 
 We were fortunate in finding maize fodder in most 
 of our halting places ; but in default of this our provi- 
 ders were seldom at loss, but stripping particular trees 
 of their nutritious foliage, supplied the necessities of their 
 mules with what the thickets furnished. 
 
 As to our two varlets, when you have said of Miguel 
 that he w as a horrachio^ you have recorded all the positive 
 evil in his character that come within our notice ; as to 
 negative faults he had plenty, but what could be expect- 
 
TLACOLULA, 57 
 
 ed of such a wild, unshaven, and uncouth being? As to 
 Juliano, with his smooth face, and smoother language ; 
 arrogance of superior breeding, and superior authority, 
 we had long known that his honesty was very suspicious, 
 that his valour was more than doubtful and that his gen- 
 eral morals were as worn and discoloured, as the faded, 
 green leather breeches in which he delighted to swagger 
 among the Indians. 
 
 We found that like other fashionable servants he had 
 his private gleanings whenever employed by us. One 
 thing I must say for him, that if he was lavish of our 
 credit and dollars, he w^as no less so of his own ; for 
 what with one thing or another, he had contrived to 
 draw from us, by the time we reached Tlacolula, nearly 
 the whole of his pay, for the entire tour and the return. 
 
 Here, having more leisure to look about us, we were 
 not slow in discovering other dusky shades in his char- 
 acter. Having taken into his head that his valour was 
 hired as our body guard, and being moreover jealous of 
 the respect and confidence which we bestowed upon 
 Don Juan Espindola, he thought proper, all of a sudden, 
 to relinquish all care of our baggage. After leading for- 
 ward our horses of a morning, ready caparisoned for de- 
 parture, without further ado, he girded on his trusty — no, 
 rusty blade ; grasped his mighty carbine, clambered on 
 his own steed, and awaited the signal of marching. This 
 conduct was the more disagreeable, as our skill in the 
 Spanish tongue as yet hardly comprised terms of objur- 
 gation and menace ; and this the rogue knew. Never- 
 theless we gave him a regular " blowing up," which I 
 flatter myself was comprehensible enough, in spite of 
 bad grammar. Gallicisms, and Anglicisms ; though indeed 
 I must in fairness state, that, whether in anger or deep- 
 seated grief no one could say, he forthwith departed from 
 our presence, bought himself a bottle of agua ardiente, 
 and got tipsy. Miguel was too good a comrade not to 
 bear him company ; so that on the morning of our depar- 
 ture from Tlacolula, they were both found to be so 
 far gone, that it was with trouble they could sit in the 
 saddle, 
 
58 THE CANADA. 
 
 But, however great our annoyance, nothing was able 
 to damp the spirit of enthusiasm with which we found 
 ourselves inspired. Soon after leaving the village, the 
 huge precipices which towered on both sides, closed in 
 upon the stream, and threw the road into deep shadow ; 
 and we were not long in discovering, that beautiful as the 
 scenery had been, we were to see it on a yet grander scale, 
 and clothed with yet greater magnificence. The most 
 sublime part of the defile of the Canada is that which ex- 
 tends two or three leagues above Tlacolula. A moun- 
 tain of very great elevation appears literally cloven in 
 twain froni the very summit to the foundation ; display- 
 ing immense perpendicular sheets of white rock, the in- 
 numerable lamina of which are twisted and gnarled like 
 the roots of a tree. A wilderness of the richest tropical 
 vegetation clothes the partial slopes, and chokes up the 
 depths of the defile. The gorge varies from five hun- 
 dred to one hundred feet in breadth. 
 
 The continuation of the road where the great defile 
 terminates, presents fine, but in general more open 
 scenery. The mule path for several leagues follows a 
 tortuous track, now on the sides of the steep acclivities, 
 and then to and fro on the side of the river, which has 
 now decreased greatly in size, till it leads you insensi- 
 bly to the foot of the Monte Penulco. 
 
 The road at this season was rendered lively by the 
 strings of mules, laden with the produce of the table 
 land, which take advantage of the dry season to reach 
 the coast by the Cariada, though I cannot say that they 
 add to the safety of the narrow pathw^ay, as it is not al- 
 ways easy to pass without running a certain degree of 
 risk. In the wet season, of course the road in the defile 
 is impracticable, and the cuchillo, or ridge of the moun- 
 tain, is then followed. 
 
 Early in the afternoon we now began to descry 
 patches of pine forest, and the river forking, we followed 
 the branch to the right, till we reached the foot of the 
 broad and well-constructed road, which, leaving the de^ 
 files, leads the traveller up the precipitous sides of the 
 mountain. A series of turns and zigzags, conducted upon 
 
THE MONTE PENULCO 59 
 
 ihe narrow edge of ridges which are oecasionally bound- 
 ed by abrupt and horrible declivities, sweeping many 
 hundred feet downward to the edge of the river, must 
 then be surmounted. Here accidents are of frequent 
 occurrence ; and our caution was increased by the sight 
 of a dying mule which had just before fallen from a 
 higher turn of the road to a lower. 
 
 As we continued to climb for nearly two hours, grad- 
 ually rising one hundred feet after another, we became 
 conscious of a change both in the atmosphere and in 
 the surrounding vegetation. Our view began to expand, 
 and to range over a long chain of gracefully moulded 
 mountains, hemming in the valley of the Cafiada towards 
 its source ; and when, at length, we emerged upon the 
 summit among scattered groups of evergreen oaks and 
 other forest trees, rising from a fresh greensward, we 
 were conscious that we had quitted the tierras calientes, 
 and had gained the level tierras templadas. 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 It is an advantage to have a mind disposed to enjoy- 
 ment, and to feel yourself participating in that temper, 
 which extracts pleasing sensations out of every situation. 
 I may without arrogance say, in different degrees, per- 
 liaps, and from very different impulses, such was the char- 
 acter of each individual of the trio whose footsteps you 
 have good-humouredly, I doubt not, followed thus far. 
 
 We had all, while in the tierras calientes^ been struck 
 with the peculiar beauties of that region and its wonder- 
 ful productions ; and revelled, with all due temperance 
 I hope, in the many sources of rational enjoyment there 
 laid before us ; philosophically enduring, if not scorning 
 those annoyances, to which the climate, country, and 
 the rude state of society, unavoidably exposed the trav- 
 eller. 
 
60 THE MONTE PENULCO 
 
 The suffocating heat, the insect plagues, the unwonted 
 food — what in fact had they been to us, compared to the 
 sum of our enjoyments? We almost felt regret, while 
 mounting the lofty mountain ladder which was to raise 
 us to another and more temperate zone, that we were 
 turning our backs upon such unparalleled beauty. 
 
 Nevertheless, if 1 would signalize one evening and one* 
 scene, during our ramble in New Spain, which touched 
 our hearts more than another, I should name the Monte 
 Penuico and the setting sun which we there beheld. 
 
 A desolate-looking stone building, in the vicinity of a 
 poor rancho, divided by party walls into a number of 
 comfortless lodgings, here furnished us with accommo- 
 dation: and after seeing that all our retinue had followed 
 us without accident, we left our horses to their repose, 
 and sallied forth for a stroll. 
 
 The swelling crest of the Monte Penuico is said to 
 have been at the time of the Spanish conquest, the site 
 of a large town containing many thousand inhabitants. 
 You look now in vain for the traces, either in the rem- 
 nants of buildings, or inequalities of surface. A solitary 
 stone ruin, of considerable strength, standing in the mid- 
 dle of the wide pastures, is the only vestige of old times ; 
 and that, I have no doubt, like many ruins in this part of 
 the country, which are shown as Indian antiquities, is 
 of Spanish origin. It may either have been a chapel 
 erected for the edification of the new converts, or a fort 
 constructed to overawe the Indian inhabitants. 
 
 In other respects, nature has reclaimed her own, and 
 resumed her quiet sway over the Monte Penuico and its 
 brethren, which exhibit throughout all their varied undu- 
 lations of surface, an unbroken carpet of delicious ver- 
 dure nurtured by the moist mists of the mountains, and 
 beds of gentle flowers, fanned by the pure and elastic air 
 of an eternal spring. 
 
 How sweet we felt the repose of that long still eve- 
 ning upon those green Alpine pastures ! Well might we, 
 as we lay at ease upon the fresh sod, and watched the sun 
 sink among the mountains girdling the horizon, while his 
 
THE MONTE PENULCO. 61 
 
 slanting beams glistened upon the pretty white Oenothera 
 which spotted the turf, congratulate each other upon our 
 escape from the persecutions o{ garapatoes and their in- 
 sect allies. 
 
 The view on all sides was fine, but chiefly so towards 
 the deep defiles of the Canada at our feet. The Monte 
 Psnnlco occupies the angle between the forks. Across 
 the opening which marked the great defile above Tlaco- 
 lula, an even line of blue, melting into the mist of the ut- 
 most visible horizon, marked the open country of the 
 Huastec, through which we had passed many days previ- 
 ous. Many little solitary Indian huts, and patches of 
 sugarcane, and numerous herds of cattle, were scattered 
 over the precipitous slopes far and wide, and altogether, 
 we agreed, that nowhere in America had we seen moun- 
 tain scenery whose general features and colouring bore 
 so great a resemblance to the lower green Alps of Swit- 
 zerland, with their wide pastures, transparent atmo- 
 sphere and glistening chalets. 
 
 The Monte Penulco lies probably at the height of be- 
 tween four and five thousand feet above the gulf. The 
 limit at which the sugarcane and banana come to per- 
 fection, has been given as the boundary between tierras 
 calientes and tierras templadas ; but I am doubtful 
 whether that is a just criterion, as so much depends up- 
 on the geological formation of a locality, and its position 
 with regard to the surrounding country, and in some 
 parts of Mexico sugar is cultivated at a much greater 
 height than that which otherwise would exhibit the phe- 
 nomena of the tierras templadas. 
 
 We Slipped in our den, during the brief twilight of the 
 tropics, and welcomed the temperate zone of New Spain 
 in a horn of its own vintage, which 1 here introduce to 
 your notice under the name o( pidque — a liquor drawn 
 from the great Mexican aloe, or maguey. 
 
 I forgot to mention that, on arrival here, we yielded 
 to the desire of Espindola, that we should dispense wi(h 
 his services for the night and following morning, and al- 
 
 F 
 
62 THE MONTE PENULCO. 
 
 low him to go forward to his home in the town of Za« 
 cualtipan, between three and four leagues distant, to pre- 
 pare his wife for the reception of our party : and I have 
 now further to narrate the defection of our scapegrace 
 Juhano, who, after going about his work in the evening 
 like a man in a maze, was reported early the next morn- 
 ing by his comrade to be dead — or dying — or drunk ; 
 at all events incapable, or unwilling to move another 
 step. We therefore visited him, and inquired into the 
 particulars of his case. We examined his tongue— 
 well-coloured and healthy ; felt his pulse — free and regu- 
 lar; and punched him atfectionately in the stomach, that 
 being, according to the mute indication of the suffererj 
 the main seat of the unknown disease. He bore this 
 professional treatment with great meekness. We ascer- 
 tained that he had, in conformity to his invariable habits, 
 made a very hearty supper : to wit, a dozen and a half 
 of tortillas smeared with Chile; a dish of rice; a dish 
 of frigoles, forbye an egg or two ; a huge pot of pulque, 
 and a couple of yards of sugarcane ; and we had great 
 suspicion, from what we learned, that he intended, as soon 
 as the coast w^as clear, to make an equally hearty break- 
 fast. But what were we poor, innocent, helpless trav- 
 ellers to do ? There he lay under a group of Palma 
 Christi, on his armas d'agua, or goatskin knee wrappers, 
 like a man who has completely lost his hold upon the 
 world — made his last testament — left to others the con- 
 solations to be derived from the possession of his goods 
 and chattels — his battered green velvet pantaloons, and 
 short jacket; his mighty sword, and mightier carbine; 
 and was only waiting for the priest to give him his 
 viaticum. 
 
 It is true, we had all good reasons to believe him 
 " playing possum," as the Anglo Americans express it, 
 otherwise shamming ; indeed, we had proof positive 
 showing this to be the case, and that, moreover, he had 
 excellent reasons for doing it, and for quitting us here. 
 He was deeply in our debt. He was tired of his mas- 
 ters, as he found that his villanies, small and great, were 
 detected. He knew that from this day forward, the 
 
 I 
 
ZACUALTIPAN. 63 
 
 gallant bearing of a warrior which he had assumed was 
 no longer to be a sinecure, but that there was a possi- 
 bility of his having actually to fight — all urgent reasons 
 for breaking his chain. And break it he did — no doubt 
 finding his health wonderfully restored, as soon as our 
 diminished train disappeared ; and I could almost sym- 
 pathize with the laugh which he must have indulged in, 
 as he saw the three dons in the distance, reduced to the 
 necessity of turning muleteers — the more so, as our 
 hyper-charity had left him a bonus for his ill conduct. 
 
 Abobo and his fellows were all mad that morning — 
 whether from the intoxicating effects of mountain air, 
 or from their feeling thatEspindola was absent, and that 
 we were in a dilemma, I know not. However you 
 might be tempted, you cannot follow Juliano's example 
 and go back ; but nolens volens must keep us company 
 over one swelling height after another, up and down — but 
 always attaining a greater and greater altitude, till after 
 about three hours' march through an elevated line of coun- 
 try, partly under cultivation, the view suddenly opened to 
 the south, and we saw the main chain of the Sierra Madre, 
 heaped over the horizon in that direction, the wide 
 stretch of varied table land at its feet, and the pretty 
 town of Zacualtipan before us. 
 
 It was certainly a pity that Juliano did not keep up 
 his courage so far as to advance to Zacualtipan, for he 
 would have gloried in the eclat with which our party en- 
 tered it ; wheeling round by the great church, and across 
 the Plaza, with ringing spurs and jingling arms, at a hard 
 trot after our intoxicated mules, which, led by old Abobo, 
 as soon as they recollected the locality and the near 
 proximity of their own stable, set oflf at a canter to the 
 great risk of the various piles of which their lading was 
 composed. Great was the astonishment of the peaceful 
 inhabitants ; and even a sleepy corps de garde of half clad 
 soldiery, lounging under the piazza of the municipal 
 palace in the square, were evidently taken by sur- 
 prise. However, they had no time to collect their 
 forces ; for following hard in the wake of our baggage, 
 we descended a narrow street, on the opposite side of 
 
64 ZACUALTIPAN» 
 
 the space, and rushed pellrrjell into the hospitable court- 
 yard, much to the dehght of our honest arriero, who, 
 with his young wife and two children, was upon the look- 
 out for us. He gave as a hearty welcome to his home, 
 where, both for his sake and our ovvn, we had deter- 
 mined to take an entire day's rest. 
 
 A salvo of hearty kicks was meantime fired by old 
 Bamanos upon every set of ribs and l)aunches within 
 reach, either as a salutary correction for tlieir general 
 want of discipline, or a publication of his resumption of 
 authority as " lord of the walkj^ now that they were at 
 home. 
 
 Zacualtipan was the largest town we had yet seen 
 in Mexico, though far overrated, it being reported to con- 
 tain ten thousand inhabitants. Its situation, at the broken 
 ground towards the head of a vast rocky ravine of great 
 depth, descending for several leagues towards the valley 
 of Rio Oquilcalco, is very picturesque. Many of the 
 houses are constructed of liuiestone, with balconies and 
 galleries somewhat in the Spanish taste. The principal 
 church is more curious in parts, than beautiful in propor- 
 tion : and it is singular to trace here and there many of 
 the Moorish and Arabesque details which are to be found 
 in the splendid churches of the mother country, trans- 
 planted hither on the soil of the New World. The 
 church is furnished with its quota of bells, priests, and 
 tinsel; as we had an opportunity of discovering an hour 
 after our arrival, when a large, but dirty and tawdry 
 funeral procession, with hynms and crucifix, perambu- 
 lated most of the narrow streets of the place, of which 
 the deceased seemed to have been a wealthy inhabitant. 
 There is little or no trade or manufacture here, as far as 
 we could learn. 
 
 The house of our arriero was comfortably, but simply 
 furnished with settees round the walls, and was by far the 
 most pleasant lodging we had occupied since our arrival 
 in the country ; and though far from wealthy, it was 
 easy to see that the master was respected by his 
 townsmen. He devoted the following morning to a 
 ramble with us in the adjacent country, in which he 
 
ZACUALTIPAN. 65 
 
 pointed out various remnants of old times. We re- 
 marked the site of more than one Indian town, now only 
 indicated by swelling heaps of rubbish or sunken wells, 
 and some singularly shaped rocks, which tradition points 
 out as objects of idolatrous worship in ancient times. 
 
 What we were most eager to visit, were certain In- 
 dian temples, of which we had heard much, and we 
 were accordingly conducted to a massive ruined church 
 of moderate size, situated a little below Zacualtipan, just 
 at the commencement of the great defile. Its erection 
 is referred to times prior to the conquest, but I have no 
 hesitation in saying, falsely so, like others which we in- 
 spected in this valley, in continuing our route. It is 
 strongly built of hewn stone, cemented by lime, and 
 adorned with a species of carved frieze, the very form 
 and drawing of which convinced me that that at least 
 was of Spanish workmanship. And a little further in- 
 spection and acquaintance with the undoubted erections 
 of the Aztec and Toltec nations, certified me that the 
 whole structure was of the same origin, though probably 
 built upon the site of a temple or teocalUs of the abo- 
 rigines. In the course of the evening, we inspected an- 
 other of similar form and character, strikingly situated on 
 a knoll below the elevated village of San Bernardo, two 
 leagues below Zacualtipan, and overlooking the great 
 defile ; and to this the same observation applies. 
 
 I had an awkward kind of adventure just before our 
 departure from the town. While all unarmed, peace- 
 ably sketching alone, in a secluded spot in the vicinity of 
 the church, 1 was attacked at disadvantage by a savage 
 patriot, either mad or drunk, or both, who from the cir- 
 cumstance of my having been seen more than once in 
 that precise position, in the purlieus of his solitary dwell- 
 ing, with paper and pencil, was pleased to consider me as 
 a spy, and accordingly foilowed and accosted me with 
 his naked sabre at my throat. That the fellow was ca- 
 pable of doing me some grievous bodily injury, all for the 
 love of Mejico y liherdad, if not for plunder, in spite of 
 my honest face and intentions, I am convinced ; and that 
 I felt very foolish, at being thus taken unaware, without 
 
 f2 
 
66 SAN BERNARDO. 
 
 the means of self-defence, you will believe. As it was, I 
 had to put on all my address, and more bold effrontery 
 than 1 generally affect, to decoy him to accompany me 
 towards a more public thoroughfare, where he was 
 pleased to leave me ; and to tell the truth, I was pleased 
 to leave him. This w'as the second warning 1 had had, 
 what kind of trouble 1 was likely to get into by doing 
 that which in this land even honest people could not 
 comprehend, besides throwing myself in the way of 
 danger from the vicious ; and as I could not resolve to 
 give up my pursuits, I, from this time henceforward, 
 never stirred abroad without being well armed. 
 
 In the vicinity of San Bernardo, we met with the first 
 regular plantations of the Agave Americana, or maguey, 
 which I have alluded to as the source from which the 
 present inhabitants of the table land of New Spain, as 
 w^ell as the Aztec aborigines, draw their ordinary bev- 
 erage. It is a noble plant, and 1 wmU not forget some 
 future day to give you a more detailed account of its 
 appearance, culture, and uses. 
 
 The ninth of March is noted on my memoranda as 
 having afforded us a singularly amusing day's travel. 
 
 The whole tract of country over which it lay was 
 perfectly distinct in its features from any we had yet 
 seen. The swelling forms, thick rank luxuriance of the 
 lower country, and the sweet pastures and evergreen 
 oaks of the first and lower steps of the tierras templadas, 
 had alike disappeared ; and as we held our course over 
 the elevated hills west of the great defile, we saw around 
 us tracts of most astonishing extent, partly level table 
 land, and partly hill country, with rocky and precipitous 
 sides, and furrowed with barrancas awd ravines of as- 
 tounding depth. The whole landscape, up to the foot of 
 the distant Sierra Madre, appeared garbed in the most 
 uninviting russet )iue — the scanty grass covering the 
 plain being now of a uniform brown, and in perfect har- 
 mony with the burnt, arid soil, or bare rock. Fertile 
 spots there were, but they were hidden in the deep valleys. 
 The scene was not lovely, but it was sublime. Its details 
 
. 9 RIO OQUILCALCO. 67 
 
 were highly curious. This region, barren as it was, had 
 its vegetable as well as its geological wonders, and they 
 were such as to strike us with astonishment. The whole 
 of the stony surface of the mountains on both sides of the 
 valley of the Rio Oquilcalco, into which we descended, 
 is covered with a profusion of maguey, mimosa, cactus, 
 and gigantic nopal or prickly pear, many of the segments 
 of whose curious lobe-formed growth were from three to 
 four feet in circumference, and the oldest near the ground, 
 which served for stem, as many feet in girth, rising one 
 above another, till they formed a curious but ungraceful 
 tree of fifteen or eigliteen feet in height. 
 
 Among the cacti, of which I counted eight distinct 
 species, from the little prickly ball no larger than a wall- 
 nut, to the great white multangular column which rose 
 gracefully in a single shaft, to the height of fifteen feet, 
 two of the larger species might also arrogate the name of 
 trees, and were extremely curious in appearance. 
 
 A rough and tortuous track led us into the arid and 
 stony bed of the Rio Oquilcalco, where, sending the 
 mules forward, we made a diversion to the left, to visit 
 another so-called Indian temple, of much the same char- 
 acter as those I have already mentioned. A ragged 
 passage of a mountain four leagues across, exhibiting the 
 same plienomena, brought us to our midday halting 
 place, at the pretty Hacienda Guaduloupe, situated ia 
 the middle of shady trees, and smiling fields of maize, 
 sugarcane, beans, and so forth, on a clear mountain 
 stream called Rio Grande, which in the rainy season 
 forms a considerable river. The system of irrigation 
 carried on in this vale is productive of great fertility, and 
 many of the fruits and productions of the tierras call' 
 entes are brought to perfection. After an hour's halt, 
 we began the long and rocky ascent of the broad moun- 
 tain of San Ammonica, by which you finally attain the 
 level of the expanse of table land which forms the 
 pedestal of the Sierra Madre. Near the summit, the 
 traveller passes the crater of an extinguished volcano, 
 having long perceived, throughout the whole district, the 
 
68 THE HACIENDA ZOQUITAL." 
 
 marks of volcanic eruption, and after a difficult climb of 
 the extreme and precipitous ridge, gains the level of the 
 plain above mentioned. Though partly under careful 
 cultivation, its surface also bears many signs of the vol- 
 canic origin of the country, in the beds of scoria, the 
 deep and perpendicular rifts and barrancas which mark 
 the path of the earthquake, or the combined effects of 
 alternate heat and torrents, and the fearful-looking pits, 
 half full of black water, which are dispersed over it. 
 There v;as much to remind me of the country about 
 Civita Gastellana. 
 
 The day came to an end by our arrival at the great 
 Hacienda Zoquital, where we took possession of one of 
 a great range of unfurnished rooms, which, according to 
 the custom of the country, are let at a fixed price for the 
 occupation of travellers, while stabling is furnished for 
 their horses and mules. It is seldom that these night 
 quarters are furnished with windows. 
 
 This was one of the most considerable haciendas we 
 had seen ; and in truth, its massive walls might have al- 
 most stood a siege, and maintained a considerable gar» 
 rison within their circuit. 
 
 Many parties of arrieros were here passing to and 
 from the capital. The attention of all seemed to be a 
 little excited by the fact, that a troop of banditti had been 
 plundering a party that very day on the road between 
 the Hacienda and Real del Monte ; and it was quite amu- 
 sing to see the determination with which loading and pri- 
 ming were carried on the next m.orning at daybreak in 
 our party in particular, as we were destined to be the 
 first to advance in the direction of the supposed danger. 
 What with guns, horse pistols, and pocket pistols, we 
 calculated the three dons could fire ten shots without 
 reloading for their own share, which was not so much 
 amiss, supposing every shot told. We could not count 
 upon Miguel's blunderbuss, which was quite as likely to 
 hit one of the party as an enemy. As to Espindola, he 
 was perfectly unarmed, and made no secret of his Qua- 
 ker principles and steady determination not to fight ; as 
 he said very coolly, ^' Why should I, even if I had any- 
 
REGLA. eg 
 
 thing to lose, for if I defended myself, and even beat off 
 or killed my assailants, I am known to every robber in 
 the country, and I should be stabbed secretly, if not shot 
 openly ! It is different with hs sign&res estrangeros, if 
 they choose to run the chance ; but los signores ladrones 
 Mejicanos seldom attack Avhen they are not sure to over- 
 power." 
 
 During the morning's ride over the w'xdQ plains, in the 
 bright and cloudless sunshine towards Real del Monte, 
 we were led to reconsider our plans for the day, on find- 
 ing that, as we were desirous of seeing the hacienda 
 and barranca of Regla, we might attain that object in 
 the course of the day, by going a few leagues out of the 
 direct road to the silver mines, without falling short of 
 our arrangement to arrive that night at Real del Monte. 
 Accordingly we resolved to leave the mules to their fate : 
 and, sending them forward on the main road, under the 
 conduct of Miguel, and a little valet of Espindola's, our 
 small party turned aside, under the escort of the latter. 
 We soon reached the town of Puebla Grande de Mittan, 
 the situation of which, more to the east, had long been 
 indicated by the huge church which rises over its mot- 
 ley collection of habitations. We allowed ourselves no 
 breathing time here, further than a hasty glance at the 
 church and a draught of pulque required ; but continued 
 our route over an elevated district of singular sterility, 
 commanding, however, noble views of the surrounding 
 chains. After two hours' ride, we descended into a 
 valley, with occasional haciendas scattered over its sur- 
 face, and shortly after found ourselves at the brink of th© 
 Barranca of Regla. A well-constructed road, upon 
 which we had been pacing for some time, conducted us 
 by a rapid descent into the recesses of this celebrated 
 ravine, when we suddenly came in sight of the immense 
 pile of the hacienda and its Moorish church tower over- 
 topped by the lofty colonnades of columnas basalt which 
 form the sides of the barranca. In the abundant supply 
 of water which rushes down it, you find the reason which 
 has led to the choice of this singular locality for the 
 erection of those colossal works for the smeitinsE and 
 
70 REGLA. 
 
 amalgamation of the silver ores, which the enterprise 
 and unlimited means of a former Count of Regla have 
 constructed within this horrible gulf, at the cost of nine 
 millions of dollars. At the present time, this property, 
 together with an almost boundless extent of country on 
 the neighbouring cordillera and in the plain, including the 
 silver mines of Real del Monte, has been, since 1824, 
 rented in perpetuity of the noble possessor, by a British 
 mining company, for the paltry sum of sixteen thousand 
 dollars per annum. 
 
 We were hospitably received and entertained for some 
 hours by Mr. M., the company's superintendent at the 
 hacienda ; and through his kindness were furnished with 
 every facility for a detailed inspection of the various 
 works, which of course have been brought to far greater 
 perfection by the present proprietors. Not the least re- 
 markable feature of these immense works, are the pon- 
 derous bulwarks of hewn stone, built to protect the works 
 from the impetuous torrents of debris brought down by 
 the river in the rainy season. We did not of course fail 
 to ascend the barranca to the celebrated cascade, which 
 you reach by tracing the course of the stream between 
 two walls of basaltic columns, upward of a hundred feet 
 in height. It is to be found at some distance above the 
 hacienda, where a screen of the same singular geological 
 structure, composedof perpendicular columns of twenty- 
 five or thirty feet in elevation, stretches across the ravine, 
 and bars the course of the river which pours over it from 
 the upper part of the barranca ; disjointed sections of 
 rock half covered with moss, and shaded by trees, lie at 
 the foot of either precipice. In the rainy season, the 
 whole scene must be very grand. The colour and texture 
 of the basalt differ in some respects from any I have 
 seen in Europe, if I except that on Ben More, in the 
 north of Ireland. The form of the columns, however, is 
 very complete, and in most cases hexagonal or pentag- 
 onal. The barranca of Regla lies about seven thou- 
 sand feet above the gulf 
 , The kindness of our entertainer made us prolong our 
 
REAL DEL MONTE. ^ 71 
 
 Stay far longer than prudence should have permitted, the 
 more so, as a thunder storm was evidently in prepara- 
 tion. We had four leagues of road before us ; and the 
 latter part of this, after entering the mountains, was ac- 
 knowledged to be extremely perilous for a nocturnal 
 ride. A melancholy proof had been given only a few 
 evenings before, when one of the gentlemen connected 
 with the mines, descending from Real del Monte, with 
 Mr. M., was precipitated in the darkness into a profound 
 barranca, and was then lying at the point of death. 
 
 But whether in the shape of thunder storm, darkness, 
 barranca, or banditti, we seemed to have made up our 
 minds to dare the danger, and to sleep at an elevation of 
 two thousand feet higher up the country. In fine, just as 
 the thunder began to echo among the mountains of the 
 Rio del Chico, we might be seen issuing from the deep 
 ravine, and urging our horses across the plain in the di- 
 rection of the nearest chain, like men who knew that no 
 time was to be lost. 
 
 Evening fell in early, under the lugubrious and prema- 
 ture shade cast over the brown plain and blue mountains 
 by the thunder clouds ; and by the time we reached a 
 small village at the foot of the latter, night had fairly set 
 in. The storm, however, seemed to spread itself more to 
 the northward, as the glare of lightning became less fre- 
 quent ; and it was now that such a darkness fell upon 
 us as baffles all description. I had been riding forty 
 yards in advance as a kind of scout, feeling the way, but 
 now I was compelled to come to a dead stop, and give 
 up the task of leader to Espindola. A momentary flash 
 from time to time showed us that we were at the entrance 
 of a mountain defile overhung with rocks, and at the 
 brink of a dashinaj torrent, roliinof down a barranca to 
 the left ; but in our progress forward, our ears alone 
 gave token of the character of the locality. The danger 
 I have no scruple in saying was imminent, and increased 
 in a terrific degree, as we crawled forward step by step, 
 at the edge of a gulf, which increased momentarily in 
 depth, upon a road of no great breadth; undefended on 
 the side of the precipice, and conducted in several in- 
 
72 REAL DEL MONTE. 
 
 stances over the abyss, by bridges equally without par- 
 apet. 
 
 We kept, as well as the ear and touch would permit, 
 one exactly behind the other, momentarily passing the 
 word to halt, or advance, rapidly from one to another. 
 Now and then we came to a full halt, from the utter 
 doubt whether the next step would not be over the pre- 
 cipice. The passage of each bridge in turn, was a mo- 
 ment of great interest, yet through God's mercy, we met 
 with no accident, but gradually ascended, till the fresh- 
 ening air and the expansion of the valley, as we might 
 see by an occasional flash, indicated our approach to the 
 town. In fine, there we arrived, and after some little 
 search, found our valets, and a room prepared for our 
 reception in a meson or inn. 
 
 The mules and their cargoes had fortunately escaped 
 pillage ; some thought, from the fact that there were no 
 robbers to attack them, and others, from the intimidation 
 produced by the formidable and suspicious appearance 
 of the leather case of my gun, which, in its empty state, 
 was always carried in advance upon the leading mule, 
 in the hands of little Raphael Pointed forward between 
 the ears of the animal, it certainly might pass for a bow 
 gun of extraordinary construction. 
 
 We made a halt of two days at Real del Monte, which 
 we found to be a singularly picturesque town, containing, 
 among others, one large decorated church, and many 
 substantial buildings. It is surrounded by forests of oak 
 and pine, and mountain slopes carpeted by white, red, 
 and yellow flowering shrubs. It is situated at the height 
 of upward of nine thousand feet above the sea. We 
 found our time fully taken up by the overground and un- 
 derground excursions which we were enabled to make 
 with much interest to ourselves, through the polite at- 
 tention of the gentlemen connected with the mining com- 
 pany. Among the former I distinguished a climb to the 
 summit of a singular rock rising, at the distan-ce of some 
 miles, about one thousand feet higher than tlie town, and 
 commanding a view of extraordinary interest and extent 
 
HEAL DEL MONTE. "^S 
 
 'on both sides of the great chain in which the mines are 
 situated. This you will easily conceive, when I enu- 
 merate among the points visible within the vast horizon^ 
 the plains and lakes of the great valley of Mexico, about 
 twenty leagues distant; the volcanoes of Mexico and 
 Puebla on one hand, and the vale of Regla, and evem 
 the great cone of Orizava itself, on the i^iher^ 
 
 I feel that my description of the mines must of Pieces- 
 isity be very brief and insufficient, and that for many de- 
 tails you must be referred to the writings of more sober 
 'End laborious writers. 
 
 A portion of the first day was devoted to a survey of 
 the superficial operations and works; and on the morn- 
 ing of the second, M'Euen and myself spent six hours 
 under ground, while Pourtales, eschewing fatigue, luxu- 
 riated in his grass hammock, smoked five dozen cigarita^ 
 and sipped pulque. 
 
 A brief account you have, however, the right to de- 
 mand. 
 
 The great vein of silver ore called the Biscaina, lying 
 in the porphyric rock of this chain, was one of the earli» 
 est and most productive of those opened by the Span- 
 iards. It was worked by them with great advantage 
 nearly two hundred years, but circumstances at the be- 
 ginning of the last century gave rise to its temporary 
 abandonment. It was, however, reopened, and other 
 shafts commenced towards the close of the same centu- 
 ry by the Count of Regla, who, in the excavation of an 
 adit, or subterraneous canal, to carry off the waters from 
 the mines, is said to have realized eleven millions of dol- 
 lars ; such being the richness of ore with which he acci- 
 dentally came in contact. Subsequently difficulties have 
 constrained his descendant to cede his right, as before 
 mentioned ; and the Real del Monte Company, after the 
 complete repair of the old works, and the construction of 
 new — the cost and labour of which have been enormous 
 — has at length so far attained its object, that at present 
 the actual proceeds of the mines exceed the expenditure, 
 which here and at Regla is estimated at thirty thousand 
 
•74 REAL DEL MONTE, 
 
 dollars monthly. The energy and skill of our country- 
 men in the construction of new shafts, and the subslitii- 
 tion of steam for animal power— the great roads con- 
 structed to Regla and to Vera Cruz, whence all their 
 heavy machinery has been transported on its arrival from 
 England ; and the order and wisdom evident in all the 
 operations, are not unworthy of the British name. 
 
 At the same time, there is something about mining 
 speculations in any country, and more than all in a coun- 
 try like New Spain, where justice and reason have so 
 little sway, which would make me advise any friend of 
 mine to take a slower but surer mode of seeking his 
 fortune. 
 
 In consequence of the number of artificers and miners 
 transported hither, an English colony has sprung up in 
 Real del Monte, and it was moving for me to see the 
 flaxen hair and blue eyes, and hear the prattle of many 
 English children, gambolling in close vicinity to the swar- 
 thy offspring of the mixed races of the country. 
 
 From the eminence to the south of Real del Monte, an 
 excellent bird's eye view is attained of the general dispo- 
 sition of the works. 
 
 The great vein runs through this elevated mountain 
 mass, nearly in a direction of east and west underlying 
 south, with a variation of 24 degrees. All the works 
 are to the south of the town, and are seen disposed up 
 the slope of the main ridge. 
 
 The lowest shaft is the Dolores, 330 varas* deep, 
 then follow San Cyetano, 347 varas ; Santa Teresa^ 
 335 ; Terrero, 370 ; Guadaloupe, 210. Santa Agaiha 
 and San Francisco are the highest shafts in the series. 
 The great adit, to the level of which the water is brought 
 up by powerful steam engines from the bottom of the 
 mines, lies 242 varas below the mouth of the Terrero 
 shaft. It is throughout 2^ varas high, and H wide, and 
 runs for two miles and a half with a very gentle fall, to 
 its opening in the vale of Moran below. Hitherto, steam 
 power has only been applied to the purpose here stated, 
 
 * Vara, or Mexican yard, is two feet nine inches English. 
 
REAL DEL MONTE. 75 
 
 the ore and rubbish being raised to the surface by horse 
 power appHed to a windlass. 
 
 But now, if you choose, you may accompany us to the 
 mouth of the Dolores shaft, when, having garbed in 
 miners' dresses, with heads well defended with a kind of 
 felt helmet, we began our descent by ladders, accompa- 
 nied by two of the English captains or overseers, and 
 went down, down, down into the bowels of the earth. 
 We passed the mouth of the adit; and, reaching the bot- 
 tom of the mine, in our progress from one shaft to an- 
 other, visited every part of the " workings." To gain 
 and examine some of these required a certain degree of 
 strength and resolution, from the defective and danger- 
 ous means of descent and exit. They were various in 
 appearance, sometimes a shapeless excavation, and at 
 other times wrought into the form of a gallery, according 
 as the rock had been rich or poor in the ore, which is 
 found in a quartz matrix, imbodied in the porphyry rock, 
 of which the whole chain consists. 
 
 The system of mining struck me as peculiar. The 
 common miners are, for the most part, of the Indian race. 
 A few of them band together, to work in company, and 
 take their equal shares of the proceeds. They are paid 
 four rials a day by the company, and take, as their further 
 perquisite, one eighth of the ore extracted. 
 
 On issuing from the mouth of the mine, the confede- 
 rates themselves divide the lumps of ore, rich and poor, 
 into eight heaps in the presence of one of the overseers, 
 and that overseer determines which of the eio^ht shall be 
 given up to them. There are subterranean offices where 
 the tools and candles are kept, and regularly served out 
 and reclaimed, by an officer charged with that particular 
 duty. Blasting and other operations are carried on as in 
 other mines. 
 
 There are upon an average about three hundred In- 
 dians constantly thus engaged in the different parts of the 
 mine ; and the scenes presented in those gloomy caves, 
 where they work by the red light of their tapers, with 
 scarcely any covering, are far beyond my describing. 
 
76 REAL DEL MONTE. 
 
 The ascent of the great shaft of the Terreros, from the 
 depth of nearly a thousand feet below the surface, by 
 means of a series of perpendicular ladders, thirty-two in 
 number, was one of the most fatiguing exploits which I 
 ever undertook^ We were, nevertheless, highly grati- 
 fied by our adventure. It may yet be mentioned that 
 the ore is transported to Regla, where it goes through 
 the necessary processes for being converted into bullion, 
 after which it is carried to the city of Mexico, and coined 
 into dollars at the government mint. In this form it i& 
 exported'. 
 
 The lust for gold which possessed the souls of the con- 
 querors, condemned the aborigines of these central por- 
 tions of America, to a system of oppression and tyranny 
 in times past, which is almost inconceivable. As there 
 was no personal danger to which the quest after the 
 precious metals might expose the Spaniard that he would 
 not dare ; so there was no depth of cruelty to which he 
 would not descend to further his debasing passion. Of 
 this the traditioii& of the Indians preserve many striking 
 illustrations. 
 
 I give you one anecdote— whether told before or not^ 
 I do not know — which was related to me, with others of 
 the kind, in the mining district where such tales abound.. 
 
 In an Indian village, farther to the north, say the In- 
 dians, there lived in the old Spanish times a padre r a 
 man of simple and retired habits, who laboured to con- 
 vert and maintain the inhabitants in the Catholic faiths 
 
 He was beloved by the simple tribe among whom he 
 was domesticated, and they did not fail to prove their 
 good will by frequent presents of such triies as they 
 found were agreeable to him. They say that he was a 
 great writer ; and occasionally received from the Indians 
 of his parish a small quantity of finely coloured dust^ 
 which he made use of to dry his sermons and letters. 
 Knowing how much the padre loved writing, they sel-- 
 dom returned from the mountains without bringing him 
 some. It happened that once upon a time, he had occa- 
 sion to write to a friend of his, living in the eapitaU who. 
 
HEAL DEL MONTE. 77 
 
 was a jeweller, and did not fail to use his sand box. In 
 returning an answer, his knowing friend, to his great sur- 
 prise, bantered him with his great riches, seeing that he 
 dried the very ink on his paper with gold dust ! This 
 opened the simple padre's eyes. He sent for his Indian 
 friends, and without divulging his newly acquired know- 
 ledge, begged them to get him more of the fine bright 
 sand. They, nothing doubting, did so. The demon of 
 avarice began to whisper into the old man's ear, and 
 warm the blood of his heart. He begged for more, and 
 received it — and then more — till they had furnished him 
 with several pounds weight. All entreaty that they would 
 show him the locality where this bright dust was gathered, 
 was resisted with calmness and steadiness for a long time. 
 Alternate cajoling and menace were employed with 
 equally bad success. At length, wearied out, they told 
 him that, as they loved him, and saw he was disturbed in 
 mind, they would yield to his desire and show him the 
 spot, on the condition that he would submit to be led to 
 and from the place blindfold. To this he greedily con- 
 sented, and was in course of time taken upon their shoul- 
 ders and carried, whither he knew not, by many devious 
 ways, up and down mountain and barranca, for many 
 hours, into the recesses of the cordillera, and there, in a 
 cave through which a stream issued from the breast of 
 the mountain, they set him dowm and unbound him. 
 They there show^ed him quantities of the gold dust inter- 
 mingled with large lumps of virgin ore, while their spokes- 
 man addressed him, saying : " Father, we have brought 
 you here at your urgent request, because you so much 
 desired it, and because we loved you ; take now what 
 you want to carry away with you— let it be as much as 
 you can carry, for here you must never hope to come 
 again ; you wall never persuade us more !" The padre 
 seemingly acquiesced, and after disposing as much of the 
 precious metal about his person as he could contrive to 
 carry, he submitted to be blindfolded, and was again 
 taken in the arms of the Indians to be transported home. 
 The tradition goes on to relate how the good cure, upon 
 whom the cursed lust of gold had now seized, thought to 
 g2 
 
78 REAL DEL MONTE. 
 
 outwk his conductors by untying his rosary, and oecs- 
 sionally dropping a bead on the earth. If he flattered 
 himself that any hope existed of his being thus able to 
 thread the blind maze through which he passed, and find 
 the locality, one may imagine his chagrin, when once 
 more arrived and set down at his own door, the first 
 sight which met his uncovered eyes was the contented 
 face of one of his Indian guides, and an outstretched 
 hand, containing in its hollow the greater part of the 
 grains of his rosary ; while the guileless tongue of the 
 finder expressed his simple joy at having been enabled to 
 restore such a sacred treasure to the discomfited padre. 
 
 Entreaties and threats were now employed in vain. 
 Gentle as the Indians were, they were not to be bent. 
 Government was apprized of the circumstances, and 
 commissioners were sent down to investigate the affair. 
 The principal inhabitants were seized, and menace being 
 powerless, torture, that last argument of the tyrant^ 
 was resorted to — all in vain, not a word could be wrung 
 from them ! Many were put to death ; still their brethren 
 remained mute ; and the village became deserted under 
 the systematic persecution of the oppressors. The most 
 careful researches, repeatedly made from time to time 
 by adventurers in search of the rich deposite, have all re- 
 sulted in disappointment ; and, to this day all that is 
 known is, that somewhere in the recesses of those moun- 
 tains lies the gold mine of La Navidad, 
 
 The following day, despite the temptation we felt to 
 make various excursions in this interesting neighbour- 
 hood, we found ourselves necessitated to resume our 
 route to the capital, twenty-three leagues distant. From 
 the summit of the sierra, above the town of Real del 
 Monte, a steep and rugged descent brings you to the 
 level of the great plains which form the central land of 
 Mexico ; and over these we now proceeded slowly, in 
 a suffocating heat. The first evening we reached a col- 
 lection of mud huts and of plantations of nopal and ma- 
 guey, disposed around a fine large picturesque churchy 
 called the San Matteo Grande. 
 
THE TABLE LAND. 79 
 
 The second day's ride of seven leagues, over a hilly 
 country, increasing in interest at every step, brought us 
 over the great dike of San Cristobal, to a village within 
 three leagues of Mexico : and, at last, on the morning of 
 the 18th, passing by the celebrated collegiate church of 
 Guadaloupe, we quitted terra firma by the causeway 
 from the north and half an hour afterward entered the 
 gate of Mexicoo 
 
 I would not here anticipate many observations upon 
 the features and phenomena of the district now traversed^ 
 which may find a more suitable place in a future letter, 
 but I cannot avoid observing, how, from the very mo- 
 ment of his descent from the mountains, the unusual 
 scenes which open themselves before the traveller, pre- 
 pare him as it were for that extraordinary and fascina- 
 ting picture, which is presented to him on attaining the 
 object of his toils. 
 
 The arid, glazed, and silent surface of those intermin- 
 able levels, over which the whirling column of sand is 
 seen stalking with its stately motion in the midst of a hot 
 and stagnant atmosphere ; and upon whose surface he 
 continually sees painted the magic and illusory pictures of 
 the mirage, with their transparent waters and reflected 
 scenes : the huge dark piles of distant mountains, range 
 behind range — the strange character of the colouring of 
 the landscape far and near — the isolated volcanic cones 
 springing up suddenly from the dead flats, and the lofty 
 peaks of the great volcanoes far in the distance, gleaming 
 in the blue sky with their snowy summits ; the numerous 
 churches, each with its dome and towers, mocking the 
 deserted waste around, and the wretched groups of mud 
 cottages in its vicinity, by its stately architecture ; all 
 this — seen through an atmosphere of such transcendent 
 purity, that, vast as the expanded landscape seems, no 
 just idea of its immensity can be formed from the calcu- 
 lations of the eye — imbodies forth, not perhaps the pic- 
 turesque, nor perhaps the beautiful, but most assuredly 
 the sublime. 
 
 And when approaching the main valley, the villages 
 
80 MEXICO. 
 
 thicken around him, with their streets cheered and beau- 
 tified, amid the general steriHty, by groups of the grace- 
 ful Peruvian pepper tree ; and the roads are seen 
 crowded by long strings of laden mules, and gay cava- 
 liers — and the stupendous works of human design, har- 
 monize with those of nature, and prepare him for the 
 sight of the most extraordinary scenes in the world, 
 whether we regard the works of men, or those of God, 
 the artificer of all. And such is the valley and city of 
 Mexico. 
 
 LETTER Y. 
 
 My last letter closed with the entry of our travel- 
 soiled and battered train into the city of Mexico. Such 
 epithets may be well applied to us, for we were covered 
 with white dust from head to foot ; our faces were ex° 
 coriated by the reflection of the sun's rays from the 
 heated plains ; and, contrasted with the splendour 
 around us, it was impossible not to feel that there was 
 something humiliating in our undisguisable shabbiness. 
 
 All things considered, we were not sorry to find our- 
 selves speedily in possession of quarters in a species of 
 lodging, gaming, eating, and club house, called the G?'an 
 Socieclad, at the corner of the two great streets, Espiritu 
 Santo and del Refugio, and near the centre of the city. 
 Here we hired badly furnished apartments, and even- 
 tually settled down for a month's residence. 
 
 A few days, and you may imagine us fairly inured to 
 our new position. 
 
 Espindola having loyally performed his contract, and 
 given up his charge, had clattered out of the gateway 
 with his mules and bag of dollars ; and, in high good 
 humour with his late employers and himself, had set off 
 to seek another engagement among the merchants of the 
 
MEXICO. 81 
 
 city. He was of course followed by the valorous little 
 Raphael. Our horses, and a fat saddle mule pertaining 
 to our stud, were safely housed at a livery stable in the 
 vicinity, yclept the " Washington ;" where a tall, raw- 
 boned Kentuckian, from the backwoods, presided, under 
 the dignified and dulcet title of Don Floresco 1 
 
 Garcia, a new equery and valet, knowing in the 
 streets and resources of the capital, and in the most ap- 
 proved ways of emptying the purses of Zo5 signores es- 
 trangeros, had been hired to be our attendant. 
 
 Against honest Miguel we had no complaint to make^ 
 except that he was ill looking, and a barrachio, a title 
 which may be applied without offence to many respect- 
 able gentlemen in the western hemisphere, as well as to 
 a poor Mexican mestizzo. He had now exacted from us 
 a precise document, bearing witness to his qualifications 
 and character, and mounting his active pad, had turned 
 his face towards the coast. 
 
 A fresh skin, the brush, and an English tailor, had done 
 something towards making us presentable— in our own 
 opinion. Letters of credence and introduction had been 
 delivered ; the proper visits made ; and we were now 
 at liberty, each to follow his own devices. 
 
 De Pourtales being somewhat indisposed, took it into 
 his head to consult Dr. C- — , to take exceeding care of 
 his health, and to remain a great deal within doors, phi- 
 losophizing and discussing unknown fruits — the sapote 
 prieto, the sapote chico, the sapote bo7Tackio, and the sa- 
 pote hlanco — the lucious avocate and mamei, the vaunted 
 chirimoya, and the sweet grandita. He took siestas 
 both before and after dinner, and he received visits, 
 M'Euen also got a most unaccountable fit of the fine 
 gentleman ; reclined a great deal, and read considera- 
 bly ; and, for some days, except on extraordinary occa- 
 sions, a lounge on the Alameda, or under the Portales de 
 las Flores, was very hard to put in motion. 
 
 As for your hum.ble servant, he was never in better 
 health and spirits in his life ; and knowing that the time 
 was circumscribed, thought to make the best use of the 
 opportunity. Being in a great degree left to chalk eul 
 
82 MEXICO. 
 
 and follow my own devices, I was abroad early and late. 
 Thanks to active habits, the disregard of heat and dust, 
 the occasional assistance of my steed Pinto, and a philo- 
 sophic contempt of the chances of being lassoed and 
 robbed — before half the periodof our halt was at an end, 
 I had contrived to see a great deal both within and with- 
 out the city, and to learn something in spite of our disad- 
 vantages — and such there were. So far I am satisfied ; 
 at the same time that I have continually to keep in mind 
 the latter, and the brevity of our visit, when I recollect 
 how many and how interesting are the subjects and ob- 
 jects to which I have paid little or no attention. 
 
 But my preface is finished ; and now, that I have ac- 
 tually glanced at Mexico, what kind of dish must I cook 
 and serve up to you ? Must I give you the literal and 
 homely hodgepodge of my own hasty diary ; daily no- 
 tices of personal occurrences, personal observations, and 
 personal reflections ; with cuttings from the conversa- 
 tion and information of those with whom we came in 
 contact ? or shall I dress you a dish of historical and sta- 
 tistical information, served up with a garnish of apt quo- 
 tations from Bullock and Poinsett, or still better, from 
 Humboldt — the first, the best, and the only really philo- 
 sophic modern traveller who ever visited New Spain, 
 whose researches, written thirty years ago, still form the 
 text book of every succeeding visiter ! 
 
 Will you have a trifle, half indigestible solid, and half 
 evanescent froth, prepared from the shadowy history and 
 traditions of the aboriginal people ; shrouded in the mist 
 of hieroglyphic, emblematical, and enigmatical devices, 
 rendered yet more dim by the misconception, the misin- 
 terpretation, and the bigotry of the conquerors ; and still 
 more by the stupidity of modern conjurers and expound- 
 ers of enigmas: or a sober, well-seasoned regale from the 
 tale of the conquest, marvellous, even when those large 
 deductions which must be demanded, both by unimagin- 
 ative common sense and evident truth, have been made ? 
 The choice is an embarrassing one; and allowing you to 
 take full time for decision, I invite you to partake in the 
 
MEXICO. 83 
 
 mean time of the pot pourri, which I forthwith serve up 
 to you. 
 
 The general position and remarkable features of the 
 valley and capital of New Spain, have been too often de- 
 scribed not to have become familiar to you. 
 
 You have seen, how, in our ascent from the coast, after 
 we had passed through the teeming and fertile uplands 
 of the torrid region at the base of the mountains, we had 
 mounted from one broad and varied step of this gigan- 
 tic mountain mass to another, till we had gained the in- 
 terior plateau, where, at the height of 7470 feet, girdled 
 by the severed chain of the southern cordillera, the val- 
 ley of Mexico, with its lakes, marshes, towns, villages, 
 and noble city, opened upon our view. 
 
 The general figure of the valley is a broken oval of 
 about sixty miles in length, by thirty-five in breadth. At 
 the present day, even when divested of much that must 
 have added to its beauty in the eyes of the great cap- 
 tain, and his eager followers, when, descending from the 
 mountains in the direction of Vera Cruz, after overcom- 
 ing so many difficulties, the view of the ancient city and 
 its valley at length burst upon them like a beautiful 
 dream — I never saw, and I think I never shall see on 
 earth, a scene comparable to it. I often made this re- 
 flection, whenever my excursions over the neighbouring 
 mountains led me to a point which commanded a general 
 view. 
 
 I could not look upon it as did the Spanish invaders, 
 as the term of indescribable fatigues, and of dangers, 
 known and unknown ; the rich mine which should repay 
 them for their nights of alarm and their days of toil, and 
 compensate for their seemingly utter abandonment of 
 home ; the prize that should satisfy the cravings of the 
 most inordinate, and fill their laps v*^ith that dear gold for 
 which they had ventured all ! I could not enter into the 
 ecstasy of the moment, when, after pursuing their blind 
 way to this paradise from the plains of Tlascala and 
 Cholula, into the recesses of pine-clad and barren rocks, 
 higher and higher towards the cold sky, till untrodden 
 
S4 MEXICO. 
 
 SEOW-covered peaks arose on either hand, and thef 
 marched within sight and hearing of the great volcano 
 which menaced their path, they gained, in fine, the west- 
 ern slope, and saw the green and cultivated fields and 
 gardens spreading like a carpet at their feet, round the 
 bright and inland sea which then encircled the " Venice 
 of the Aztecs 1" With what ravishment must they have 
 marked the thousand specks which moved upon the wa- 
 ters round that broad city spread below, with its white 
 roofs, streets, temples, and edifices? what must have 
 been their amazement at descrying the long and solid 
 causeways dividing th€ waters ; the innumerable towns 
 and villages scattered over the surface of the fertile 
 plain ; and the huge circle of mountains which appeared 
 to form like a bulwark oil every side ? No I I could not 
 realize all they felt — but, amid the desolation of most of 
 the ancient fields and gardens ; the aridity and utter 
 barrenness of much of the broad plain which now girdles 
 the city in every direction ; the diminished extent of the 
 lake ; the solitude reigning on its waters ; the destruc- 
 tion of the forests on the mountain slopes ; I still felt that 
 the round world can hardly match the beauty and inter- 
 est of that landscape. Even if man had destroyed, with- 
 out in some degree repairing the wrongs he had commit- 
 ted to that lovely scene, by the fruits of his industry and 
 genius, there is that about the whole scenery which is 
 above him, and beyond being aflfected by him. But let 
 us do the stern old conquerors justice. Their minds ap- 
 pear to have been imbued with the pervading spirit of 
 the land which they conquered. All around them was 
 strange, and wonderful, and colossal — and their concep- 
 tions and their labours took the same stamp. Look at 
 their works : the moles, aqueducts, churches, roads— 
 and the luxurious City of Palaces which has risen from 
 the clay-built ruins 6f Tenochtitlan, at a height above the 
 ocean, at which, in the Old World, the monk of St. Ber- 
 nard alone drags through a shivering and joyless exist- 
 ence 1 
 
 If the general features of the valley of Mexico are 
 
MEXICO. 85 
 
 thus striking, those presented by the capital are not less 
 so. In both its general plan and position, and the so- 
 lidity and grandeur of its details, it has impressed me 
 with a greater idea of splendour than any city 1 have 
 seen in either hemisphere. 
 
 It covers with its suburbs an area of probably upward 
 of three miles square, occupying the central portion of 
 that extended oval which w^as covered by Tenochtitlan 
 at the time of the conquest. 
 
 The Plaza Major, or principal square of the new city, 
 corresponds with that of the old. The cathedral is 
 based on the ruins of the great temple or Teocallis ; 
 the palace of Cortez, the Casa del Est;ido, rises on the 
 very spot on which Montezuma held his court ; and 
 many of the principal streets at the present day are 
 conducted precisely over the same ground as the more 
 noted of the ancient thoroughfares. 
 
 You see the broad and well-paved way sweep through 
 the long vista of palaces and public and private edifices, 
 from one end of the city to the other ; and the contrast 
 between the bright blue sky above, and the screen of 
 mountains which form the background far m the dis- 
 tance, enveloped in the clear aerial tints of this transpa- 
 rent atmosphere, combined with the variety of colour- 
 ing and graceful proportions of the architecture, is more 
 magnificent and beautiful than I can describe. 
 
 At the time of our visit, the city may be said to have 
 exhibited an aspect of extraordinary splendour, from the 
 circumstance, that in consequence of the ravages of the 
 cholera the preceding year, the inhabitants throughout 
 its limits had been compelled by public ordinance to 
 paint and clean their houses. 
 
 The general style of building is regular and sym- 
 metrical in its outlines. The better houses are nearly of 
 the same height ; strongly built of porphyry or porus 
 amygdaloid ; rising to the third story, with flat roofs, and 
 having lofty apartments disposed round an interior quad- 
 rangle. At the same time, in the ornaments and details of 
 the facades, the style of the elaborate carving, the form of 
 
 II 
 
Ob MEXICO. 
 
 the windows and balconies, and the colouring, the eye 
 recognises an endless variety at every turn. Whether 
 the style of embellishment is always in good taste or not, 
 it is often very curious and always striking. Most of 
 the facades are painted in distemper, white, orange^ 
 crimson, blue, and green or red ; and many are overlaid 
 with glazed and stained porcelain tiles of extremely 
 beautiful design. 
 
 Such is the number of the churches, convents, and 
 public buildings in the central part of the city, that you 
 can hardly move without commanding a view of one or 
 more edifices of this character, rising above the general 
 line, and rearing a pile of stately architecture, with 
 painted dome and towers in brilliant relief against the 
 sky. 
 
 For the accommodation of a population estimated at 
 one hundred and sixty thousand, you enumerate fity-six 
 churches within the bounds of the city, in addition to the 
 cathedral. The convents and monasteries are thirty- 
 eight in number. Some of these are of very great ex- 
 tent. That of the San Francisco contains five churches 
 within its walls. 
 
 Many of the ecclesiastical edifices are of very great 
 size, and all more or less highly wrought and embellisfied 
 interiorly, though the number of those which are distin- 
 guished for really good design and good taste is com- 
 paratively snjall. Santa Teresa, the Antigua, the Fj-o- 
 fessa, San Augustin, the Incarnation, and one or two 
 others, might be named as having some claim to be ex- 
 empt from the general stricture of bad taste, false and 
 gaudy ornament, tinsel and glitter, which applies to the 
 majority, and which in many becomes absolutely offen- 
 sive. Statuary, painting, and carving, are lavished upon 
 all, but rarely of a character over mediocrity. In actual 
 riches, display of gold, silver, and embroidery, Mexico 
 far surpasses every city in Europe ; and the value of pre- 
 cious metals which you have sometimes before you, in 
 the shape of candelabras, vases, balustrades, shrines, and 
 consecrated vessels, is incalculable. 
 
 The signs of the domination of the papal religion are 
 
MEXICO. 87 
 
 to be seen everywhere in the streets, where pictures, 
 shrines, and processions abound. Few are the palaces, 
 on one part or another of the facades of which you do 
 not descry a patron saint, " sanctified in stone;" and 
 most of the houses which form the angle of the inter- 
 secting streets, are surnriounted by httle arabesque shrines 
 rising above the level of the azotea or terraced roof. 
 
 I have hastily penned these brief outlines of the in- 
 terior aspect of the city, intending, as I may feel tempted, 
 to relate the events of the Holy Week which we are 
 approaching, and fill you up the outlines here or there, 
 and to people it, which you see I have omitted to do. 
 Meanwhile, I would lead you without the walls, if a 
 breastwork of hardened mud, stretching across the en- 
 trance of the causeways, deserves the name. 
 
 Round that nucleus of splendid streets and buildings 
 which I have alluded to, in traversini^ the outskirts of 
 the city, you find a large space occupied by buildings of 
 a very inferior design, interspersed, however, by large 
 and spacious churches. Beyond these, at least on the 
 east and north sides, an exterior circle of scattered cabins 
 is observable, constructed of the adaubi, or unburnt 
 brick, prepared from the clay of the surface, and in- 
 habited by the refuse of the populace. They are posted 
 on the very limits of that ploi of ground which, by an 
 elevation of two or three feet over the surface of the 
 lake, had been dignified by the erection of this great 
 city. The whole of this space was probably thickly 
 covered by the ancient capital. 
 
 Over these marshes in the times of Montezuma, cov- 
 ered as they then were by water, three causeways led to 
 the firm land ; namely, that of Tacuba to the west, Te- 
 peaca on the northwest, and Cuoyacan towards the 
 south. It was upon tlie latter that Cortez made his first 
 entry into the capital. At that time the majority of the 
 streets were intersected by canals; and the city being 
 surrounded by water on every side, the principal com- 
 munication with the surrounding districts, and between 
 
88 ROUTE TO SAN AUGUSTIN. 
 
 the different quarters, was carried on by light canoes. 
 These canals are now almost all filled up ; and except 
 that of Chalco, there is no considerable canal in the city. 
 On the other hand, the causeways are now above double 
 their original number. The three ancient cahadas are 
 still maintained ; the first beini^ still that of Tacuba, the 
 second of Guadaloupe, and the third of San Augustin, 
 There are then in addition, the great calzada running to 
 the southeast over the flats, to the southern extremity of 
 Lake Tezeuco, and thence to the new Vera Cruz road ; 
 that to Ohapultepec, southwest : and lastly, one in the 
 direction of the northwest, towards Guautitlan. Several 
 of these causeways are planted with avenues of poplars 
 and other trees, and along two of them, those of Chapul- 
 tepec and Tacuba, the supply of fresh water is brought 
 from the mountains to the capital by the aqueducts of 
 Chapultepec and Santa Fe.* 
 
 Let us turn together for our first excursion to the 
 southward, upon the great adzada, leading to Chalco and 
 San Augustin, by a continuation of which, the traveller 
 attains the eastern declivity of the Sierra Madre, and 
 the Pacific at Acapulco. It was in this direction that 
 two of our number made our first sortie, a few days 
 after our arrival, early on a glorious morning, in whose 
 brilliant sunshine the facades of the palaces shone like 
 silver and enamel. 
 
 A light caleche with a couple of well-bitted horses 
 soon bore us over the pavement of the long street : and 
 passing the Garita, we entered upon the raised causeway, 
 with the sterile tracts of the marshy flat surrounding the 
 city on either hand — a vast tract of country with groups 
 of volcanic hills in the middle ground — and in the dis- 
 tance a splendid semicircular range of mountains, com- 
 prising the highest summits of the great porphyritic 
 chain. The Monte Ajusco, towards whose base we 
 were bending our course, was comparatively at no great 
 
 * The aqueduct of Chapultepec counts 904 arches, and is 10»826 
 feet in length ; that of Santa Fe, 33,464 feet. 
 
ROUTE TO SAN AUGUSTIN. 89 
 
 distance, while the two great volcanoes of Puebla tow- 
 ered, with their snowy caps, from a distance of sixty 
 miles to the south. Beyond the flats in your imme- 
 diate vicinity — over which the various causeways with 
 their avenues of elm and poplar, and the aqueducts, are 
 seen stretching for miles towards the base of the hills 
 ■ — the eye catches a glimpse of a lovely region of ver- 
 dure and cultivation, studded with innumerable orchardsj 
 villas, and tasteful country houses ; and many a village, 
 indicated by the dome and tower of its church. In that 
 direction the country appears like one vast garden, and 
 the contrast between its verdure and gray tints, and the 
 varied hue of both the intermediate plains and the slopes 
 of the mountains beyond, is extremely beautiful. 
 
 A few miles from the mud barrier of the city, you 
 have the ancient road to the lake of Chalco, stretching 
 towards the village of Mejicalzingo, and the foot of the 
 Cerro di I'Estrella, to the left. The latter strangely 
 moulded ridge, heaving up from the surrounding plain, 
 is noted as the spot from which Cortez enjoyed his first 
 near view of Tenochtitlan. Such are the extreme dry- 
 ness and transparency of the atmosphere on the table 
 land of Mexico, that the traveller soon discovers that he 
 is quite unable to form a just idea of the relative posi- 
 tion and distance of the objects scattered over this great 
 plateau. Indeed this deception surpasses anything which 
 1 have observed in any other country, and is heightened 
 by the brilliancy of the colouring observable in the general 
 tints of the landscape. Thus, in looking towards the hill 
 I have just named, it appears to be but little in advance 
 of a huge mass more to the eastward, whose steep pur- 
 ple sides, truncated summit, and yawning crater bespeak 
 its volcanic origin. Yet as you proceed on your road, 
 you see them remove from each other, leagues apart. 
 On farther advance you see first one distinct cone dis- 
 entangle itself from the bulk of the more remote, then 
 another, and in the end discover a range of distinct cones 
 increasing in height, and admit the complete fallacy of 
 your first impressions. 
 
 For many miles after he has gained what might be 
 h2 
 
90 HACIENDA SAN ANTONIO. 
 
 called terra firma, the traveller is appalled by the sterility 
 of the surrounding plain ; at the same time that the signs 
 of a past system oi careful drainage, and the ruins of 
 huts and haciendas, show you that this curse of barren- 
 ness has not been always the dowry of the soil. In 
 truth, owing to causes which it is difficult to explain, 
 some of the finest estates in the immediate vicinity of 
 the capital have become absolutely desert, from the rapid 
 spread of saline offlorescence formed upon the surface, 
 which is more or less a main feature of all these great 
 elevated plains. 
 
 About six miles from the city, we traversed the dry 
 bed of the Chorubusco, passing along a ridge raised 
 several feet above the general surface of the country, 
 and formed by the debris brought down by the river from 
 the mountains in the rainy season. 
 
 We now approached the noble estate and hacienda 
 of San Antonio, covering a large tract of fertile country 
 in advance, and admirably cultivated and governed by 
 its noble proprietor, to whose family we had the advan- 
 tage of being known ; and I shall lake occasion at once 
 to make use of the knowledge gained by subsequent 
 visits here, to allude to a few points of interest connected 
 with agriculture in this part of Mexico. 
 
 The Hacienda San Antonio is situated at the distance 
 of eight miles from the city, in the centre of a body of 
 land of great fertility, extending from the line of the road 
 far into the plain to the east and south, while exactly op- 
 posite a small picturesque church, surrounded by trees, 
 marks the limit of a vast field of hard black lava of re- 
 volting sterility, deforming the country in the vicinity of 
 San Augustin, and along the base of the neighbouring 
 mountain of the Ajusco. It is known by the name of 
 the Pedrigal. 
 
 The road and a rivulet in front of the hacienda are 
 shaded by fine silver poplars, and other well-known 
 trees; in addition to the schinus or Peruvian pepper 
 tree, of which the bright green foliage, and pendant clus- 
 ters of red berries, form such a graceful ornament of the 
 upper regions of the country. 
 
HACIENDA SAN ANTONIO. 91 
 
 A deep archway on the left-hand side of the road in- 
 troduces you to the courtyard. In common with all the 
 haciendas we had seen on the table land, the mass of 
 buildings here are imposing from their great size and so- 
 lidity of structure. Besides the dwelling house of the 
 proprietors, built like the town houses in a quadrangle 
 round an interior open court, they comprise a church, 
 dwellings for the dependants, stables, and other offices on 
 a large scale, and a granary, which, for massive architec- 
 ture and dimensions, might serve for a state prison. This 
 granary is calculated to hold twelve thousand cargas of 
 maize, each carga weighing one hundred and eighty Eng- 
 lish pounds. 
 
 The principal products of the estate are maize and pul- 
 que. Of the former the annual produce alone is estima- 
 ted at eight thousand cargas. The whole domain is under 
 excellent cultivation and management, and both from the 
 excellent system of irrio^ation and drainage pursued, and 
 its vicinity to the capital, is accounted one of the most 
 lucrative in the whole valley. 
 
 The mode of culture of the maguey,* from which, as 
 I have before mentioned, the pulque is derived, may de- 
 mand a little further elucidation. 
 
 In appearance the great agave is a stately aloe of a 
 dark green hue with leaves of great size and thickness. 
 I have not unfrequently seen it rise higher than my head 
 when seated on horseback. 
 
 Its culture is a very productive one. The prime cost 
 and the whole expense of labour demanded by the plant 
 from first to last, may be estimated at three dollars and a 
 half, and the ultimate produce at ten. In the sale of 
 land, the well grown maguey plants are computed at the 
 average value of five dollars. They are set in regular 
 rows, about three yards apart, and come to perfection in 
 from eight to ten years ; when, if left to themselves, 
 they would flower. 
 
 This is the interesting moment for the cultivator. He 
 watches the plant, till by well-known signs he sees that 
 
 * Agave x\mericana. 
 
92 HACIENDA SAN ANTONIO. 
 
 nature has completed her time, and that the maguey is 
 upon the point of throwing up the high flowering stem. 
 He then cuts deeply and systematically into the very 
 heart of the plant, depriving it of the tight scroll of leaves 
 which envelopes the embryo flower stalk, and scoops out 
 a regular hollow of nearly a foot in diameter in the 
 centre. 
 
 The sap vessels of the mutilated plant still perform 
 their allotted duty, and pour into this artificial bowl such 
 an abundant supply of juice, that it requires emptying 
 two or three times a day for eight or ten successive 
 weeks. It is computed that a single maguey will yield 
 six hundred pounds of sap in the course of the season. 
 This is the pulque. It is commodiously drawn from the 
 reservoir by means of suction into a long gourd, and 
 thence transferred to goatskin sacks, where it ferments 
 slightly, and is then drinkable and pleasant enough, if 
 not too old. When long bottled in these primeval re- 
 ceptacles, it takes a very peculiar schmaack, as a Dutch- 
 man w^ould say, disagreeable to many foreigners, but I 
 cannot say we found it sufficiently so to prevent our par- 
 taking of it with great satisfaction as long as we were in 
 the country. 
 
 A brandy is distilled from the maguey, which is per- 
 niciously intoxicating when taken in too freely. The 
 ordinary pulque is slightly so, and the Indians frequently 
 render it highly deleterious by steeping the berries of the 
 schinus in it. 
 
 It is hardly necessary to say that no maguey plant 
 which has been mutilated lives ; its uses are, however, 
 still various and important. The dried fibres are of uni- 
 versal substitution for hemp, in the manufacture of cord- 
 age and packing-cloths. 
 
 There are estates in the valley of Mexico which re- 
 turn as much as thirty-six thousand dollars annually from 
 the culture of the maguey alone. 
 
 This most useful plant comes to perfection on the va- 
 rious plateaux of the table land, from the height of five 
 thousand feet to that of nearly nine thousand feet, but 
 beyond a certain elevation it ceases to be so productive. 
 
TLALPAM. 93 
 
 Besides the two principal products, the estates about 
 Mexico furnish a large quantity of European grain, Mex- 
 ican and European wheat, and abundance of beans, peas, 
 Chili pepper, and vegetables, in addition to most of our 
 European fruits. 
 
 Surely there is not on the face of the earth a country 
 more highly favoured by nature than New Spain. You 
 can hardly name a mineral product which it does not 
 hide within its bosom, or a vegetable one, of whatever 
 zone, which it might not, under proper management, be 
 made to bring to perfection in one part or another of its 
 varied surface. Yet how little has man hitherto done to 
 improve these advantages ! 
 
 But to return for an instant to the hacienda. It may 
 be remarked, that in common with all its neighbours of 
 the same class, there are signs of interior decay observ- 
 able, consequent upon the altered circumstances of the 
 country : and the general magnificence of the plan and 
 the dimensions of the apartments, contrast disagreeably 
 with the scanty character of the furniture. These 
 country seats were once palaces, but they are no longer 
 so ; still there was a feudal air about the great hall of 
 San Antonio, which for size and noble proportions might 
 almost rival the ritter-saal of a German castle. The 
 church had been completely despoiled of its ornaments, 
 and now seemed to be utterly deserted. 
 
 From the hacienda of San Antonio, the route con- 
 tinues to run, in nearly a straight line, to Tlalpam or San 
 Augustin de las Cuevas, a town with a large church and 
 plaza, most delightfully situated among gardens and 
 groves, at the very foot of the hills in advance of the 
 Ajusco. It is a favourite resort of the citizens of all 
 classes from the capital, many of the wealthier of whom 
 have country seats here, to which they repair to enjoy 
 fine air and verdure, in exchange for the heat and glare 
 of the city. 
 
 Among these, the country seat and gardens of the 
 exiled General Moran are particularly beautiful. The 
 
94 THE CORDILLERA. 
 
 whole country in the neighbourhood is under high cul- 
 tivation. At Whitsuntide a great fair is held at the town, 
 when thousands assemble hither from Mexico and the 
 adjoining district. The lengths to which gambling is 
 carried on at the monte tables of St. Augustin, at that 
 season of festivity, are almost incredible. Many of the 
 once wealthy families of this country have been beggared 
 by giving themselves up to a taste for this witless game 
 of headlong chance. 
 
 No language of mine can give you a just idea of the 
 scene from the neighbouring heights. They command 
 a view of vast extent over the southern portion of the 
 valley, with the broad plain, the distant lakes Xochimiico 
 and Chalco, various groups of volcanic hills in the middle 
 ground, and the wall of mountains surmounted by the 
 snowy summits of Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl on the 
 horizon. 
 
 The Ajusco, a compact mass of porphyritic rock, soar- 
 ing to the height of thirteen thousand feet above the 
 Pacific, rises directly in the rear. It is the highest point 
 of the eastern wall of the cordillera which girdles the 
 valley. 
 
 In the view from this point, which I had more than 
 once the opportunity of examining in detail, nothing 
 struck me more ihan the great number of truncated cones 
 and volcanic summits within sight. 
 
 Though there exists throughout this portion of the 
 continent positive proofs of the agency of internal fire, 
 in upheaving the whole of the table land of the Mexican 
 cordillera to its present extraordinary level, an exami- 
 nation of the continent would seem to indicate that the 
 forces set in action by igneous agency, have been more 
 active in one particular direction than another; that is, 
 along a nearly right line of no great breadth, enclosed be- 
 tween 18° and 20° of north latitude. Commencing with 
 the volcano of San Martin de Tuxtla, on the shore of the 
 gulf, thirty-six leagues south of Vera Cruz, and moving 
 across the surface of the country, a little to the north- 
 west you find in succession — the gigantic cone of Orizaba, 
 
THE CORDILLERA. 95 
 
 and its neighbour the Coffre de Perote, the volcano of 
 Tlascala, the great volcano of Piiebla or Popocatepetl, 
 the valley of Mexico with its innumerable cones, the 
 Ajusco, the Nevada of Toluca, and the active volcanoes 
 of Jorullo and Colima; while report would incline you to 
 pursue the same general direction over the Pacific ocean, 
 for upward of three hundred miles, to the islands of Re- 
 villagigedo, which are said to be attributable to the same 
 cause. Of the central group, Popocatepetl, the Ajusco, 
 and the volcano of Toluca, are exactly upon the same 
 line. I do not name Iztaccihuatl, " the Indian icith snowy 
 breasts ;" because, though supposed to be, and generally 
 called a volcano, I have heard the fact of its possessing 
 a crater repeatedly denied on such respectable authority, 
 that I almost doubt whether it has been justly named 
 such. 
 
 Of these volcanoes, that of Tuxtla was in eruption 
 about the commencement of the century. Orizaba, or 
 Citlat tepetl — " the star mountain" was in violent erup- 
 tion, according to Humboldt, between 1545 — L566. Of 
 the eruptions of the Coftre de Perote, and of the volcano 
 of Tlascala, no tradition exists to my knowledge. Po- 
 pocatepetl, " the mountain casting out smoke,'^ has shown 
 signs of slight combustion at times during the present 
 century, and was in active eruption at the time of the 
 Spanish invasion, when Diego Ordaz, a Spanish officer, 
 attempted to ascend it. The Nevada of Toluca has 
 been long extinct. The crater, if report says true, con- 
 tains a lake abounding in fish. 
 
 The eruptions of the Ajusco, and the long chain of 
 volcanic heights to the southward, are without record : 
 though tradition says that the Chicli, signifying, in the 
 Indian language, " the hill that casts up sparks,'" an infe- 
 rior cone at its base, from which the huge stream of the 
 Pedrigal probably proceeded, was in partial eruption at 
 the emigration of the Aztecs into Anahuac, in the be- 
 ginning of the fourteenth century. 
 
 The two last upon my list, those of Colima and Jorullo, 
 are still active, and were, in fact, the only active volcanoes 
 in Mexico at the time of our visit. 
 
96 THE VALLEY OF MEXICO. 
 
 Though, therefore, there exists but little outward sign 
 of the present activity of the internal fires which are still 
 surely smouldering beneath the surface of the earth in 
 this part of the world, and occasionally shake the moun- 
 tain-piled continent from its foundation ; the signs of 
 their past power are such as to strike the observer with 
 great wonder and awe. 
 
 To me the whole of the hollow valley of Mexico, with 
 its ramparts of porphyria rocks, gave the idea of a vast 
 crater, which had been, in ages of which no human tra- 
 dition remains, the grand and principal vent through 
 which the pent-up element, after, by repeated efforts, 
 heaving up the continent step by step from its primeval 
 level, finally escaped through the crust of the earth. 
 
 Would you accuse me of yielding too freely to the play 
 of imagination, when I thought that I could read in the 
 sublime features of the vast scene before me, the unre- 
 corded history of past centuries ; and faintly picture to 
 myself the convulsions of which the valley around me 
 must assuredly have been the theatre ? At the time 
 when the earthquake was bursting those innumerable fis- 
 sures and barrancas which are observable in the surface 
 of the lower districts ; raising one sheet of level country 
 after another to its ordained elevation ; and sending up 
 one long, towering range of porphyritic mountains after 
 another from the abyss to the sky ; how little can the 
 fancy paint the scenes of awful desolation which must 
 have existed here — the great combustion which may 
 have given birth to the valley, with its basins of saline 
 waters — and the successive formation and appearance of 
 the numberless cones before me. The world has grown 
 old, but the records of that age are fresh around us. 
 What must have been the signs in the earth and sky, as 
 the ungovernable and subtle element destroyed the un- 
 seen obstacles to its escape into the upper air, and the 
 surface began to yield to the tremendous force exerted 
 by the internal fires underneath. Here rose the huge 
 pyramid, based upon the wall of the surrounding moun- 
 tains ; growing, day by day and year by year, by the ac- 
 cumulation of its own refuse, amid the showers of its own 
 
THE VALLEY OF MEXICO. 97 
 
 ashes, the flow of its lavas, and amid the sound of its own 
 fearful thunders, till it soared to where its summit now 
 glistens, in the cold region of ice and snow. There an 
 abrupt cone, bursting through the level plain, or from the 
 bosom of the waters ; disgorging its load of lava and cin- 
 der: and then another, and yet a third — a cluster of 
 smoking mountains! Here a shapeless mass of molten 
 rock and lava, bubbling above the surface, then cooling, 
 and as it cooled, so remaining for ages, a black and steril 
 monument, amid the landscape, of the forgotten reign of 
 fire : and there again, a sudden throe at the base of some 
 labouring mountain, opening a yawning abyss, from 
 which, amid fire and smoke, the seething lava would riln 
 down like oil upon the plain, or to the lar distant sea. 
 
 This is no overwrought fancy ; there can be no doubt 
 but these things were, though perhaps no eye, but His 
 who " looketh on the earth, and it trembleth," and 
 " toucheth the hills, and they smoke," bore witness to 
 them J 
 
 The road which ascends the sleep pile of hills and 
 mountains behind San Augustin, is that of the Cruz del 
 Marques, one of the six great routes which traverse the 
 Cordillera, and form the connection between the city, 
 and the vast extent of country on every side, of which it 
 is the metropolis. The others are, ihe two routes to 
 Puebla, and Vera Cruz— the more ancient of which 
 passes over the elevated ridge, between the two great 
 volcanoes; and the other, which is the new and ordinary 
 line, to the north of Iztaccihuatl. Fourthly, the route of 
 the interior, keeping the general level of the table land, 
 to Queretaro, Guanaxuato, and Durango. Fifthly, that 
 of Real del Monte, by which we approached ; and, sixth- 
 ly, that of Toluca to the west. 
 
 In recollecting the localities worthy of attention, in the 
 more immediate vicinity of Mexico, which wo repeatedly 
 visited, I feel quite at a loss which to bring into the 
 greater prominence. 
 
 I cannot forget the great interest which hangs over the 
 I 
 
98 APOPOTLA. 
 
 vicinity of Tacuba, and the road leading to it : the scene 
 of the disastrous flight of Cortez, with his handful of 
 troops and allies, on the night of the first of July, 1520, 
 long known and deplored as La Noche Triste. 
 
 It was not unusual among the European residents in 
 Mexico, to ride at an early hour out to the village of San 
 Cosmo, to an olive garden attached to a meson, situated 
 two miles from the west gate, and probably on the very 
 verge of what was once the lake, and the termination of 
 the ancient causeway, on which the roused vengeance of 
 the Mexican cost the invader half his comrades. Within 
 the bounds of the city, and close to the foreign cemetery, 
 you are shown the dike over which Alvarado made his 
 celebrated leap in his extremity. It is now a ditch of 
 about three yards across, and is still called the Salto de 
 Alvarado. 
 
 The views along this route towards Chapultepec on 
 the left, and Guadaloupe on the right, are exquisitely 
 beautiful. 
 
 Another hamlet, Apopotla, w^hich you pass half a mile 
 before you reach Tacuba, contains, within the enclosure 
 of its churchyard, one of those noble cj^presses of the 
 country, which you still find scattered here and there, of 
 a size which warrants their being considered monuments 
 of an age anterior to the earliest traditions of the conti- 
 nent. That at Apopotla is a mighty wreck, with a bole 
 fifty feet in diameter at the heigiit of a man, and of much 
 greater girth above. 
 
 The size to which this noble species, the cupressus 
 disticha, attains in some parts of New Spain, is almost in- 
 credible. There is one at Atlixco, in the intendency of 
 Puebla, measuring seventy-six feet in circumference ; and 
 the largest known, is to be seen at Mitla, in Oaxaca ; 
 which, still in its .prime, is no less than ninety-two feet 
 round the trunk. The largest in the vicinity of Mexico, 
 are those in the ancient garden, at the foot of Chapulte- 
 pec, of which the most remarkable may be sixty feet in 
 circumference. t; 
 
 Tacuba lies near the foot of the hills, and is at the 
 
CHAPULTEPEC. 99 
 
 present day chiefly noted for the large and noble church 
 which was erected there by Cortez. A Httle in the 
 rear, the ruins of an ancient Mexican pyramid are dis- 
 cernible, constructed of regular courses of unburnt 
 bricks, six inches in thickness; and hard by, you. trace 
 the Hoes of a Spanish encampment. I do not hazard the 
 opinion, but it might appear by the coincidence, that this 
 was the very position chosen by Cortez for his intrench- 
 ment, after the retreat just mentioned, and before he 
 commenced his painful route towards Otumba. 
 
 Immediately behind Tacuba and San Joachim, you 
 reach a range of high grounds, which, like the lower 
 portions of the mountains surrounding the valley, are per- 
 fectly denuded of the wood which once covered them, 
 and even of soil. They exhibit no vegetation, but scat- 
 tered bushes of cactus and schinus, except in the vicinity 
 of the great Hacienda Morales, and other farms scattered 
 at intervals on the rising ground. From the extremity 
 of the Alameda, you may easily fall into the causeway to 
 Tacuba, by turning to the left ; or yet better, to Cha- 
 pultepec, by following the Paseo Nuevo, an open road 
 raised a few feet above the level of the surrounding 
 meadows, and used as a public evening drive, in rotation 
 "with the Paseo de las Yigas, at the southeastern extrem- 
 ity of the city. But I soon got tired of the stately recre- 
 ation of the Promenade ; and after a few experiments at 
 playing '' V aimahle'^ among its stiff walks and stiffer 
 statues, I constantly turned my horse's head in one or the 
 other direction. 
 
 No traveller, ancient or modern, has failed to notice 
 the beauty and singularity of position of Chapultepec 
 — the hill of the grasshopper — at three miles distance 
 from the city. It is an insulated rock of porphyry, 
 springing up upon w^hat was the margin of the lake, and 
 now surrounded on all sides by fields and meadows over- 
 spread by luxuriant vegetation. That it was a favourite 
 place of resort of the Aztec monarchs, there is no doubt ; 
 and its foot is still clothed with an ancient garden in which 
 
100 TACUBAYA. 
 
 they sought repose and soiace from the heats of their 
 shadeless city. And though, at the present day, neglect 
 and ruin are evident on every hand ; and their pleasant 
 palaces are all destroyed, their fish ponds and baths 
 broken down, and scarcely discernible — though their 
 aviaries, and thickets of sweet-smelling flowers and me- 
 dicinal herbs, have disappeared, and their shady groves 
 are despoiled of many a noble tree ; yet there is still a 
 majesty in these shades, all tangled and neglected, and 
 overgrown as they are, which is exciting to the fancy, 
 and dear to the imagination; and no one will enter these 
 thickets, shaded by the graceful pepper tree, and linger 
 at the foot of those giant cypresses, without recollecting 
 the strange and sad fate of him who was here accus- 
 tomed to pass his hours of retirement. 
 
 Of all the royal gardens in the immediate vicinity^ 
 which were maintained by Montezuma, this at Chapul- 
 tepec is the only one which retains its original form and 
 destination. It girdles the rock, which may be about a 
 mile in circuit, and is truly a delicious locality for one 
 who, like myself, is fond of shade and quiet. The rock 
 above is now crowned by a large and palacious building 
 of noble design, erected by the Viceroy Galvez ; half 
 country seat, half castle ; and made to suit either the 
 purposes of war or peace, as might happen. It is now 
 rapidly falling to decay. The view from its platform is 
 undoubtedly one of the most delicious and complete 
 among the numberless beautiful points of view in the ba- 
 sin of Mexico, partly from the isolated position of the 
 hill, and the near vicinity of the numberless domes and 
 towers of the city, with the aqueducts and causeways, 
 and the blue lake beyond — and partly from the extreme 
 fertility and loveliness of the region stretching from hence 
 along the base of the mountains towards the Pedrigal. In 
 this direction, the town of Tacubaya, with its churches, 
 villas, and the former archiepiscopal palace, is the most 
 conspicuous object. The great church there is a large 
 and splendid edifice ; and the palace, even in the state of 
 utter decay and neglect which has overtaken its courts, 
 galleries, and lovely gardens, is well worth visiting. The 
 
GUADALOUPE. 101 
 
 gardens present a sad but beautiful scene, with their tan« 
 gled labyrinths of myrtle, jessamine, and sweet pease, and 
 their stained and voiceless fountains ; and the view from 
 them is such as none can picture to themselves who have 
 not gazed upon it. 
 
 I had a partiality for my early rides in the direction 
 which 1 have just beendescribing, both from the extreme 
 beauty of the views, and because they were the most ac- 
 cessible from the centre of the city where we had our 
 quarters. But as I desire to give you some idea of the 
 country on every side, I may mention that on several oc- 
 casions I did not fail to return upon my steps through the 
 tedious length of suburb to the north, and regaining the 
 calzada in that direction, proceed to visit the shrine and 
 rock of the patron saint of Mexico, Nuestra Sefiora de 
 Guadaloupe. 
 
 There are three churches here ; that on the rock ; the 
 splendid and spacious Collegiate Church, at the foot of 
 the mountain, one of the most costly in New Spain, 
 teeming with massive silver ornaments — and the Capella 
 del Pozo, a richly decorated chapel covered by a dome, 
 built over a mineral spring. 
 
 The more ancient church is erected upon the barren 
 rock of Tepeyayac, which forms the most southerly spur 
 of a range of high mountains, which rise, as it were, in 
 the very midst of the valley of Mexico, and may be called 
 insulated, since they are only united to the sierra on the 
 west, by an inconsiderable ridge lying between Guautit- 
 Ian and Tanepantla. 
 
 I here picked up acquaintance with a dapper little 
 priest, one of the canons of the great church, celebrated 
 among the Europeans for keeping the hesi pulque in the 
 whole country, a bottle of which he never failed to pro- 
 duce on receiving the compliment of a visit. Under 
 shadow of his favour, I had several opportunities of see- 
 ing the shrine and its riches at my leisure. Neustra Se- 
 fiora of Guadaloupe, whose worship on this rock has suc- 
 ceeded to that of the goddess Tonantzin — the Mexican 
 Ceres — is the patron saint of the city of Mexico, The 
 
 I 2 
 
102 MEXICO. 
 
 clumsy imposture to which she owes her elevation to this 
 dignity is not worth recounting. There is only one rival 
 to her dominion in the affections of the common people 
 in the valley of Mexico, and that is Nuestra Senora de 
 los Remedios, whose shrine is to be seen in a village 
 near the base of the mountains to the west of the city. 
 The leperos and j^oblanitas of the city pin their faith, in 
 case of any impendmg danger, upon* her wonder-work- 
 ing image ; and in cases of great emergency — as during 
 the prevalence of the cholera, last year — she is brought 
 with great pomp into the metropolis. On one occasion 
 it was settled that she should pass the night in town, as 
 the weather was unfHendiy, and a suitable lodging was 
 provided : but when morning dawned she had vanished. 
 The fact was, that nothing could keep her away from 
 her own flock at los Remedios, where accordingly she 
 was found at dawn in her usual place ; covered with 
 mud, however, with having walked a number of leagues 
 in a dark and rainy night. And this miracle is believed ! 
 Alas ! poor human nature \ 
 
 Wherever J go, I carry about with me an English- 
 man's weakness, and am particularly observant of climate 
 and weather. This may be pardonable in a locality so 
 peculiar as that of Mexico, where you are raised far above 
 the ordinary region of mists and vapours, into that of frost 
 and snow, and yet, from local and extraordinary causes, 
 enjoy a climate of pecuhar beauty and salubrity.* 
 
 The thermometer in the city of Mexico very seldom 
 falls to the freezing point, and as rarely rises to a degree 
 of oppressive heat ; the usual range throughout the year 
 beini^ from 50 to 80° of Fahrenheit. 
 
 * The city of Mexico was nevertheless visited hy the cholera in tho 
 course of the preceding year 1833. Out of a population of 160,000, 
 15,000 are stated to have fjillen victims to its virulence. At the height, 
 as many as 1400 deaths occurred in the course of twenty-four hours. 
 Very few cases were spasmodic. Laudanum was found to be the most 
 effectual remedy. Of the English residents all escaped with one single 
 exception, while a considerable number of the French were carried off» 
 
MEXICO. 103 
 
 During our month's residence, the weather was ex- 
 tremely unsettled ; and twice during a few rainy days, 
 when the temperature was remarkably chill, we saw the 
 snow-line descend several thousand feet upon the great 
 volcanoes. 
 
 For the remainder of the short period alluded to, the 
 weather was warm, and occasionally hot ; with partial 
 thunder showers, during the passage of which the streets 
 of the city were deluged by water to that degree that 
 the crossings would liave been impracticable for fine o"en- 
 tlemen and ladies with shoes and stockings, were it not 
 for the cargadores and Indians, upon whose backs we 
 were taught to mount without scruple, in order to save 
 ourselves a wetting. 
 
 As to the rest, we could not be insensible to the pecu- 
 liar rarity and dryness in the atmosphere, for which the 
 table land is remarkable. The sensation of the heat on 
 the skin is far greater than the degree of warmth indi- 
 cated by the thermometer would appear to warrant, 
 owing to the astonishing degree of reflection of the sun's 
 rays, which is produced by the vast and naked spread of 
 the plains, the masses of m^^untains by which they are 
 surmounted, and the diminished pressure which the rari- 
 fied air exerts upon the moisture given forth by the body. 
 The most violent exercise never produces the slightest 
 sign of perspiration ; at the same time that you can 
 ascend no elevation, not even the steps of houses, with- 
 out being sensible of an unusual shortness of breath. 
 
 But while I have dipped my pen in my inkstand to 
 allude to natural phenomena, I miust not forget to men- 
 tion the earthquakes, from w^^iich the city is rarely ex- 
 empt at this season of the year. 
 
 1 omitted to mention at the close of the preceding let- 
 ter, that when we arrived at our last halting place before 
 entering the city, we heard that the first earthquake of 
 the season had been felt at ten the preceding night ; and 
 that more than usual alarm had been excited, on account 
 of the duration, force, and the character of the shock. 
 This I am convinced I felt at San Mateo, where we slept 
 on the night in question \ though it was shrouded in the 
 
104 MEXICO. 
 
 dreaming fancy of finding myself suddenly trotting among 
 broken rocks on the back of our fat mule. 
 
 When we arrived at the city we heard that another 
 had occurred at six o'clock that very morning ; though 
 we, who, at that very time, were getting to horse in the 
 courtyard of the meson at three leagues' distance, had 
 been totally unconscious of it. These were the first ; 
 and glancing over my diary I see notices of daily shocks 
 occurring, at different intervals, for about ten days after 
 our arrival. 
 
 According to many who had the means of making the 
 observations, for several entire days the earth was found 
 to exhibit a tremulous motion, with very short intervals 
 of complete repose. 
 
 The strongest shock of which I was myself aware, 
 was felt about eleven a. m. on the 22d, when I was roused 
 from the perusal of a newspaper in the apartments of 
 the American charge d'affaires, by a sensation of confu- 
 sion and giddiness ; and, on raising my eyes, saw the 
 curtains and candelabras in motion. On going to the 
 elevated balcony, the scene presented by the broad and 
 spacious thoroughfare below was one of the most striking 
 i ever saw. There was no terror and no confusion in 
 the street. Each individual of the passing multitude, as 
 far as we could see, was on his knees — each in the spot 
 where he had become sensible of the terrible phenome- 
 non—the half-naked Indian beside the veiled dama, and 
 the loathsome leper beside the gaudily dressed official 
 The rider kneeled beside his horse, and the arriero among 
 his mules ; the carriages had halted, and their gay con- 
 tents bent in clusters in the centre of the pavement. 
 The bustle of the crowded thoroughfare had become 
 bushed, and nothing was heard but a low murmur of 
 pattered prayers ; while, with a slow, lateral motion 
 from north to south, the whole city swung like a ship at 
 anchor, for about the space of a minute and a half When 
 the shock was over, the multitude rose ; and each went 
 about his business with a nonchalance which proved how 
 the frequent recurrences of this phenomenon had nerved 
 the public mind. In fact, it is seldom that they are of a 
 
MEXICO. 105 
 
 violence to injure the massive structure of the city; and 
 the alhivial and elastic soil upon which it is based is much 
 in its favour. 
 
 INevertheless, many of the churches show how much 
 repeated shocks have injured them ; and though the ap- 
 palling inclination from the perpendicular, noticeable in 
 many towers and facades, is rather attributable to the 
 badness of the foundations, yet during these days there 
 was enough to make a brave man pause for an instant 
 before passing under certain churches — such as the Pro- 
 fesa for instance, which looks as if it would fall upon 
 the slightest provocation. 
 
 Most of these shocks were very trivial, and scarcely 
 perceptible. The first I have noticed was b}^ far the 
 most serious, and considerably damaged several of the 
 churches and the aqueducts. It began with the usual 
 lateral swing from east to west, and then suddenly took 
 the perpendicular movement, wdiich is always the most 
 dreaded. We found ultimately that it was experienced 
 about the same time at Guadalaxara ; and very severely 
 at Vera Cruz, and at Acapulco, having thus upheaved 
 and agitated the whole continent, with its enormous pile 
 of mountains, from sea to sea — a fact which may give 
 you an idea of the great depth at which the seat of this 
 tremendous power must be situated. 
 
 There is, however, a caprice in the effects produced 
 which It is difficult to explain. The same earthquake 
 which I have thus noticed as so sensibly felt at Mexico, 
 was not observable at Guadaloupe, within a mile of the 
 city ; while at Tacuba it was yet more severe. It was 
 felt neither at Real del Monte, nor at Regla, while a 
 hacienda situated between those two places was shaken 
 to its foundation. It was rumoured that the hot baths 
 situated on the Penon, an isolated mass of lava be- 
 tween the city and the lake, had increased in heat since 
 the commencement of the shocks ; and further, that 
 Popocatepetl had shown slight signs of combustion ; but 
 the most careful observation and attention could detect 
 nothing of the kind from the terraces of the city. Morn- 
 
1C6 MEXICO. 
 
 ing after morning I directed my glass to him, but no per- 
 ceptible vapour dimmed the clear silver outline of his 
 snowy summit. He was at rest, and he may perhaps 
 sleep for ages. 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 We had not been many days in the city of Mexico, 
 when we made the discovery, that notwithstanding the 
 excellent letters of introduction with which we had been 
 furnished in Europe and the United States — as ftir as 
 the natives of the country were concerned, we should 
 have to be the contrivers of our own amusements. 
 
 It is true, our calls were returned and our cards ac- 
 knowledged. We exchanged compliments ; bartered 
 bows, polite speeches, and grateful acknowledgments, 
 for the boiling-hot, rapturous expressions of ecstasy of 
 our Mexican acquaintances, at the unlooked-for happiness 
 of seeing us in tliis world. We smiled in delight, in the 
 very extremity of gratitude, at the devotion with which 
 the palaces, the horses, the very lives of our noble male 
 friends, were seemingly placed at our command without 
 any reserve. 
 
 It appeared as if every other duty or pleasure was to 
 be relinquished for the felicity of cultivating our friend- 
 ship. We received a thousand compliments, which the 
 gayest of our European admirers never had the wit to 
 conceive, or the effrontery to utter. On one or two oc- 
 casions, we had the ecstasy of presenting a comely black- 
 eyed dama or signorita with a balmy cigarita; and of 
 receiving it again from her delicate hand, after it had 
 been consecrated by a preliminary whiff. 
 
 And how then ? — why, after the first interview some 
 of the most impassioned of our acquaintances were never 
 again heard of. Others evidently kept out of our way. 
 Two or three who had travelled in Europe were again 
 
MEXICO. 107 
 
 met with in society, at the houses of the European resi- 
 dents, where of course they behaved with the proper re- 
 serve, staid decorum, and cool nonchalance of civilized 
 and well-bred men : and the greatest attention which we 
 met with during our stay, from any individual — with the 
 exception of one single family connected by marriage 
 with Europeans — was an occasional impromptu invita- 
 tion to come and sit for an hour in an evening, " quite in 
 a family way." This was laughable ; and the more so, 
 as we found that it was the general experience among 
 foreigners of all grades. 
 
 There were those among the diplomatic corps, whose 
 object it has been from the commencement of their 
 residence in this city, to cultivate a friendly and social 
 spirit with the families of natives of so-called education, 
 attached to whatever party they might be ; but a series 
 of the most ludicrous vexations and disappointments 
 showed them the total impossibility — the chimerical na- 
 ture of the scheme ; and we found the society at their 
 houses literally reduced to the superior class of Euro- 
 peans, and half a dozen Mexicans, whose visits to Eu- 
 rope had rendered them a little more susceptible of the 
 advantages of a different state of society, from that af- 
 forded by their own country. 
 
 The European merchants were equally unfortunate, 
 and found in the constant display of jealousy, and in the 
 low intrigues of their rivals among the natives, no open- 
 ing for a more liberal state of feeling and conversation. 
 Consequently, they kept aloof from each other. 
 
 Then came the lower orders of foreign speculators. 
 All found themselves the subject of jealous hatred in 
 Mexico. ^^ How does monsieur like Mexico?^' said a 
 garrulous French barber to me, the very morning of 
 my arrival. " Fine streets, fine houses, fine dutrches, 
 fine clothes !- — hut the j)eople — they are all, all, all, from 
 the president to the leper, what we in France call ca- 
 naille, monsieur ^ " ISla foi^ qii'ils sont betes ces Mexi- 
 cans" said the Belgian b.ost of a meson at Tacubaya : 
 " all, from the highest to the lowest, are as ignorant as that 
 
108 MEXICO. 
 
 bottle /"—and he pointed to an empty one. " You ask 
 a question, ' Quien sabe /'* is all yon get for answer. 
 You slwuD them something they never saio before, ' Santa 
 Maria, que boiiito /' is their only exclamation.''^ 
 
 But the most eloquent was a little German saddler, 
 who wound up a long High-Dutch tirade against the 
 miserable inhabitants of the country, their mode of living, 
 their ignorance, dishonesty, and the hard lot which com- 
 pelled him to cast his life away among such wretches, 
 by saying, " There is not von man here so honest as my 
 tog Spitz — Cai^ampa r 
 
 But in our case, besides this known feeling of jealousy 
 of the Mexicans towards the foreigner, something was 
 to be laid to the charge of the season of Lent, during 
 which it seemed that there were neither bullfights nor 
 tertuliia. 
 
 In addition, the veteran Galli, the faded Pelligrini, in 
 short, the whole corps cVopera Italienne was out of hu- 
 mour. And they might well be. They had been invited 
 to charm the eyes and ears of the Mexicans for the sea- 
 son, under certain conditions. The government had 
 bound itself to ensure them a certain amount of re- 
 muneration ; that is, whatever sum their professional re- 
 ceipts might fall short of it, it had pledged itself to make 
 good. Now, as it happened, the people were in poor 
 spirits, and had neither time nor ears for them. Their 
 receipts fell far short of their hopes, and in utter distress 
 they applied to the liberal government. Government 
 responded to their application in rather a cavalier man- 
 ner ; for instead of hard dollars, it sent a file of pass- 
 ports regularly made out, from the prima donna to the 
 scene shifter and candle snufter, and the advice to take 
 their departure forthwith. This was poor satisfiiciion ; 
 but singers are proverbially unfortunate in Mexico. 
 There was, for example, Garcia, who, travelling, was 
 set upon by banditti and pillaged, even to his snuffbox, 
 diamond ring, and pantaloons : after which, the robbers 
 
 * Who knows ? 
 
MEXICO, 109 
 
 insisted that he should sing for them. He did so— 
 and was hissed most obstreperously by his lawless audi- 
 tory ! It is said that he had borne the pillaging with be- 
 coming temper, but the hissing he never forgot or for- 
 gave. 
 
 Thus situated, we made the best of our position, and 
 determined to enjoy ourselves in our own way : riding 
 out every morning, frequently dining and spending the 
 afternoon at the house of one or other of our European 
 acquaintances, and passing the evening at the paseo, 
 or on the elevated azotea of one of the fine palaces, 
 which, now half warehouse and half dwelling house, 
 are, many of them, in the occupation of foreigners. 
 The scale of the interior arrangement of these princely 
 structures corresponds with the stately exterior. They 
 contain suites of elevated apartments, now despoiled 
 of their rich furniture, and melancholy from their vast 
 extent and want of inhabitants ; but evincing in their 
 fresh gay gilding, carved work, panelling, and painted 
 ceilings, both the past glories of which they have been 
 the scene, and the extreme purity of the atmosphere 
 which circulates within their lofty walls. The view^s 
 from the more elevated, over the flat roofs and the 
 numerous domes of the city, and the complete pano- 
 rama of mountains, were of a beauty which is indescri- 
 bable. 
 
 There are certain thoroughfares and places of resort, 
 in Mexico, which seem to pour one incessant stream of 
 human beings, from sunrise to sunset. Such are the 
 main streets leading to the causeways; the vicinity of 
 Parian and Plaza Mayor, where the bulk of the busi- 
 ness of the capital is concentrated ; the various mar- 
 kets ; and the quarters where the canals from the lakes 
 terminate. 
 
 Numberless light canoes laden with fruits, flowers, 
 vegetables, maize, and straw, meat, wild ducks, and 
 game of various description, approach the centre of the 
 city by the latter channels ; frequently accompanied by 
 
110 MEXICO. 
 
 the Indian speculators, and their families young and old. 
 Thence the cargoes are transported on the back, through 
 the press of rival mules, trooping in from the calzadas ; 
 and are deposited in the spacious market place near the 
 university. 
 
 The spectacle afforded by this crowded area was a 
 never-failing source of interest — whether our observa- 
 tion was directed to the habits of the Indian, the varied 
 picturesque costumes, the nature of the commodities 
 exposed for sale, or the peculiarities of individual char- 
 acter. 
 
 The Mexican and Ottomie Indian possesses very 
 distinct features from his North American brethren. He 
 has a shorter face and thicker lips, and the cheek bone 
 is much more protuberant. 
 
 During the early hours, good humour evidently per- 
 vaded the press ; and the public spirit seemed to harmo- 
 nize with the freshness of the flowers — of which, as in 
 the days of Cortez, there is here always an inexhausti- 
 ble profusion ; with the bright colours of the fresh-culled 
 fruits and vegetables ; and the orderly arrangement of 
 the various piles of calico, hides, earthenware, baskets, 
 ropes, and matting. The toil of their journey, and that 
 of subsequent arrangement being over, the Indian and 
 his family mifjht be seen seated at their morning meal of 
 tortillas and Chile, in peace ; and in satisfied expectation 
 of the approach of a customer. 
 
 I never failed to remark, however, an exception to this 
 tranquillity, in the person and demeanour of an old, gro- 
 tesque alguazil, who appeared to have the duty of main- 
 taining order — or rather, of stirring up disorder, in that 
 part of the market which lay opposite to the university. 
 He usually lost his temper at sunrise ; and, as far as I 
 could discover, never found it till after sunset — swear- 
 ing most grievously the livelong day ; thumping the 
 cruppers of the mules, and the heads and shoulders of 
 the Indians ; overturning hampers, kicking over the 
 baskets, knocking down the piles of merchandise, and 
 putting everything in confusion, in dogged determination 
 to see all go according to rule and square. He seemed 
 
MEXICO. Ill 
 
 perfectly careless of consequences : and he met the ob- 
 jurgation and vociferous upbraidings of the dark-eyed 
 and dark-haired female whose arrangements he had in- 
 vaded, with the same recklessness with which he braved 
 the sullen scowl of hatred from her swarthy mate. 
 
 The heat of noon brought comparative silence. Mul- 
 titudes had departed ; and those who maintained their 
 stand were dozing : but a little later, the old alguazil, with 
 uplifted staff and voice, might be seen at his unwelcome 
 labours : goading bipeds and quadrupeds ; twitching the 
 hair of the one, and the tails of the other ; and dispensing 
 execrations upon both. Unfortunately, I must allow, 
 that at this hour, there was some reason for his inter- 
 ference ; as the numberless pulquerias in the vicinity of 
 the market, to which many of the males had retired in 
 the morning, while their wives carried on the business, 
 now poured forth their inebriated occupants ; and many 
 a family group which had entered the city in harmony, 
 was seen retiring to their canoe amid violence and lam- 
 entations. 
 
 The shops in Mexico do not make any great figure ; 
 they are in general open, and of small dimensions. Cer- 
 tain quarters are devoted to distinct lines of business. 
 Thus the jewellers have their street ; the sellers of man- 
 gas theirs ; and so forth. Coachmaking is among the 
 most important mechanical trades of the capital ; and, 
 perhaps, the most lucrative after that of the gold and 
 silver smiths ; but no trade can be very bad, if we con- 
 sider the price asked for almost every article. Saddlery, 
 confectionary, millinery, and tailoring flourish. The 
 vender of medicines seems to have a stirring business. 
 The Parian, which I have before named, forms a depos- 
 itory of a great proportion of the home-manufactured 
 goods ; and the hire of the stalls brings in a large revenue 
 to government. This alone can be pleaded in defence 
 of its maintenance, to the destruction of the beauty of 
 the Plaza Mayor. It is also the principal resort of the 
 evangelistas, writers of letters, memorials, and billets- 
 doux, for the unlearned of the city. Many foreign arti- 
 
112 MEXICO, 
 
 sans have of late years settled in Mexico, but are always' 
 regarded with jealous dislike by the natives. 
 
 The works in wax are celebrated ; and there is an 
 artist, Hidalgo by name, whose models of national char- 
 acter and costumes are of rare beauty and fidelity. 
 There is evidently much native talent of an imitative 
 kind ; but the disadvantages under which the country 
 labours, are sufficient to crush and extinguish it 
 
 Owing to the causes before alluded to, I am totally 
 enable to give you the smallest insight into the manner 
 in which the best classes of the natives employ them- 
 selves during the early part of the day. Soon after sun- 
 rise, the churches held their proportions of worshippers 
 of all ranks. The hour of prayer over and gone, while 
 we suppose that the males repaired to their ordinary 
 occupations, private or official, the liigher class of females 
 disappeared altogether. Among the crowds in the great 
 thoroughfares, at the market, under the great arcades, of 
 on the promenades — it was a rare occurrence to descry 
 the mantilla of a lady of condition. 
 
 Now and then, it is true, a solitary maiden, followed 
 by her watchful duenna, might cross your path, saluting 
 your nostrils by a gentle whiff from the lighted cigarita, 
 which, like the glance of her black eye, was but half 
 shrouded by the ample mantilla ; but this was not a usual 
 apparition. 
 
 It was evident that they neither went out shopping, 
 nor visiting, nor gallivanting, but staid within doors— 
 which, on the charitable supposition that they were prop- 
 erly employed, was well enough ; but hereof deponent 
 saith not. 
 
 It was far otherwise in the evening. Then all, young 
 and old, came out of their hiding places, and the Alameda 
 and paseos before sunset, and the portales after dark, 
 swarmed with the damas and signoritas of the city. 
 
 The number of carriages which repair to the evening 
 promenade is very great ; and there is certainly consid- 
 erable taste and luxury displayed among them. 
 
 They are in general capacious vehicles, with bodies 
 
MEXICO. 113 
 
 Well and substantially built, if not exactly after the pres- 
 sent European taste ; gayly decorated and painted in the 
 old sumptuous style in vogue two centuries ago ; but the 
 huge scaffolding on which they are pendant defies de- 
 scription. This, from one extremity to another, cannot 
 frequently be less than fourteen or sixteen feet — I 
 like to keep within bounds. I should esteem it impos- 
 sible to overturn one of them by any lawful means. 
 They are drawn by two or four steeds, or mules, heavily 
 caparisoned; and, when once in motion, may be seen 
 soberly trotting round the Alameda, or over the paseo, 
 for a brief space ; when they draw up in solemn state- 
 liness side by side, in one of the open spaces, to allow 
 the occupants a full opportunity to see and to be seen. 
 The gentlemen on horseback, meanwhile, course up and 
 down, with much the same objects in view; halting and 
 chatting with their acquaintances, or rapidly exchanging, 
 in passing, that friendly little gesture with the fingers, 
 which passes current among familiars in this country. I 
 will not deny that you see some fine horses, and some 
 striking costumes ; and further, some handsome faces ; 
 and that there is a kind of excitement produced by the 
 bustle of these evening promenades, particularly when 
 they take place on the Paseo de las Vigas : but whether 
 it was that I love not crowds, and am given to seek more 
 quiet pleasures, and to prefer scenes of less glare and 
 dust ; or was apt to be too strongly reminded by them 
 of the vanity of the world ; or, lastly, that I was con- 
 scious that Pinto was one of the shabbiest steeds in the 
 city to look at, in spite of the daily care of Don Floresco, 
 and that my cutting a dash was out of the question — I 
 soon grew tired of attending the promenade, and used to 
 gird on my weapon and slink off in another direction. 
 Several times a week, about sunset, the band of the 
 artillery regiment quartered in the city, played for half 
 an hour in the vicinity of their barracks ; and many of 
 the loungers, both mounted and on foot, were accustomed 
 to repair thither : and, to do them justice, I have heard 
 far worse military bands in Europe. It was whispered 
 that the music was by far the best feature of the regi« 
 
 k3 
 
114 MEXICO. 
 
 ment, and I think with every probability of truth. Like 
 all other portions of the Mexican army which came in 
 our way, the officers were gaudily dressed in very bad 
 taste, and the men looked more like footpads than sol- 
 diers. 
 
 And now the scene of the fashionable promenade 
 changes to the portales, where some hundreds of dames 
 and gallants form into two dense lines, from which, when 
 once entangled, you can hardly extricate yourself; and 
 continue defiling up and down with monotonous regular- 
 ity and at a funeral pace, for half an hour or more ; while 
 the dirty steps at the doorways of the shops opening under 
 the arcades, upon v/hich the beggars and lepers have 
 been reclining during the day, are now, to your astonish- 
 ment, crowded by luxuriously dressed females, chatting 
 and smoking with their beaux. This is perfect Mexican 
 — just as an acquaintance described to me his morning 
 visit to a noble lady to whom the preceding evening he 
 had been presented at the opera, where she shone in 
 lace and diamonds — when he found her in the most 
 complete dishabille ; all her French finery thrown aside ; 
 without stockings, and eating tortillas and ChiUj out of 
 the common earthenware plate of the country. 1 must 
 do the Mexican gallants the credit to say that some time 
 ago a proposal was started to provide chairs. The oflfer, 
 however, was indignantly refused by the belles ; and there 
 they squat to this very day, according to the custom of 
 their mothers and grandmothers. 
 
 At this hour the ma7itilla was almost universally laid 
 aside. The females of this country cannot be said to be 
 distinguished for personal beauty. They are short in 
 person, and seldom the possessors of elegant form or 
 features. The eyes are commonly fine, and the majesty 
 of their gait, which is remarkable, is characteristic of the 
 admixture of Spanish and Indian blood. In their style 
 of dress, they have now adopted the French fashion ; al- 
 w^ays preserving the mantilla, however, as before men- 
 tioned, in the earlier part of the day. 
 
 I regret to see national costumes on the wane, here 
 and elsewhere ; most following the vile fashions of France 
 
MEXICO, 115 
 
 and England : and this fancy extends itself in many cases 
 to the trappings of the horses, as well as to those of the 
 rider ; and not a few of the young Mexicans now use the 
 EngUsh saddle, instead of the high Mameluke saddle and 
 furniture of their fathers. 
 
 It is evident that the lamentable effects of the political 
 state of the country, and the constant struggle between 
 parties for mastery, are felt throughout the whole struc- 
 ture of society. There is no frankness and no forgive- 
 ness between those who are for the moment in power, 
 and those who have in any way shown favour to another 
 modification of the constitution, or abetted other rulers. 
 The instant that the struggle is at an end by the defeat 
 of one party the other takes advantage of its victory to 
 crush its humble adversary by confiscation, exile, and 
 domestic oppression. 
 
 Unhappy Mexico ! No sooner has a government 
 seemed to be fairly seated, and felt itself called to exer- 
 cise authority, and to enforce the laws, than some discon- 
 tented partisan runs off to a distance from the capital, gets 
 a band of malecontents together, sets up a ^' grito'^ or 
 bark, to give warning that something is brewing ; follows 
 it up in due time by ^ pronunciamiento against the existing 
 rulers ; proposes a modification of the constitution ; and, 
 collecting an army, makes a dash at the metropolis. Per- 
 haps, as was the fate of Canalizza's party, while we were 
 in the country, he gets beaten on his way, and running 
 abroad to escape the vengeance of his conqueror, leaves 
 his adherents to make their peace as well as they may : 
 perhaps, like the hero of the day, Santa Anna, he suc- 
 ceeds, and gets possession of the presidential chair, to be 
 kicked out in his turn, without a shadow of doubt, sooner 
 or later. It would fill a volume, and be a perfect jest- 
 book, to give a history of all the changes experienced by 
 this country since the expulsion of the Spaniards ; and 
 the real intentions, ends, and characters of those by 
 whom they have been brought about. 
 
 The most serious evil is, that in this state of affairs 
 nothing can be accounted stable. The sound principles 
 
116 MEXICO. 
 
 of government, perchance professed by a party most 
 frequently perish with those who upheld them. You 
 have read the wise intentions published to the world by 
 this or that ephemeral president and his government, 
 with regard to general tolerance, and the introduction of 
 those principles of popular education and of internal pol- 
 icy, which can alone render the Mexicans capable of self- 
 government. You have heard of the excellence of the 
 police : the energy with which order was restored upon 
 the public roads: of summary justice being inflicted upon 
 those who transgressed the law. I should lay it down as 
 a rule, that you never need believe more than a quarter 
 of that which you might be led to infer from the inflated 
 style and mendacious language of whatever is published 
 here ; but yet there may have been some foundation for 
 what was asserted at such a date — at the same time that 
 I would assure you, that the greatest probability exists of 
 there not being a single word of truth in the statement, 
 when applied to the real position of affairs, six months 
 after. How was it when we were in Mexico? Santa 
 Anna, a man of but little genius or talent, but cleverer 
 than those about him in the low arts of intrigue, and into 
 whose well-laid traps more than one old associate had 
 fallen, was at the head of the reform government as pres- 
 ident. The preceding year, General Duran had at- 
 tempted to get up a revolution in favour of the so- 
 called *' privileged classes." This year Canalizza had 
 run off* to the eastward in the manner 1 have described ; 
 and, under what patriotic cry I forget, had issued apro- 
 nunciamiento^ proposing to set up a counter government, 
 according to the custom of the country. If I mistake 
 not. General Bravo was down in the southwest, with the 
 same intentions. The vice president, Gomez Ferias, was 
 at couteau tire with the president ; and the latter had, 
 under the veil of leave of absence from the capital, 
 for the restoration of his health, gone oflf in a very bad 
 humour, to pout at his estate near Jalapa ; where the gen- 
 eral belief was, that he was brewing some mischief of 
 his own, in favour of the army and the church, both of 
 which were decidedly under a cloud in the actual state 
 
MEXICO, I IT 
 
 of things. The latter especially began to tremble for its 
 wealth, which the necessitous federacion considered in 
 the light of a lawful prize. 
 
 The surmise was right, as the event showed ; for not 
 long after, the wily president himself was pleased to set 
 up his " bark," and abjuring the reform party, on whose 
 shoulders he had climbed to power, made a run for the 
 capital, beat his old friends, and throwing himself into 
 the arms of the "privileged classes," was again elected 
 president. 
 
 Since that time another "^n^o" has been given by the 
 Zacatecanos, who revolted again, under favour of that 
 pet cry of the giddy multitude in the age in which we 
 live — reform ! and getting together six thousand civicos 
 or militia, and thirty-two pieces of artillery, defended their 
 city. Santa Anna's star again prevailed ; and he beat 
 them also. Durango then gave him a little more trouble ; 
 and now Texas, with its unruly colonists, has called him 
 to the north. He may chance to hear some other dog 
 *' barking" in the capital before he gets back. Is not this 
 laughable ? But to return to the time of our visit. 
 
 The more enlightened party, consisting of those who 
 were averse to the ignorant bigotry of their fellow-citi- 
 zens, and desirous of introducing the more enlightened 
 policy of the United States or Europe, were quite in 
 disgrace ; their chiefs exiled, and themselves under the 
 surveillance of the party in power. Their schemes had 
 perished with them : education was discouraged ; jeal- 
 ousy and hatred of foreigners carried to a ridiculous pitch? 
 and the administration of justice most infamously abused. 
 
 The popular party, having the upper hand, was, as else- 
 where, tender of the lives of its near relatives and asso- 
 ciates in prison. Seven hundred and thirty criminals 
 crowded the Acordari, the principal jail of Mexico. 
 There had not been an execution for three years. The 
 promptitude with which eight out often miscreants, who 
 had robbed the house of a European merchant in the 
 city, were seized and executed some years before, owing 
 to the firmness of one or two magistrates, and the author- 
 
118 MEXICO. 
 
 ity of the English consul general, had neither been for- 
 gotten nor forgiven by the people and present govern- 
 ment. 
 
 The transportation of criminals to the presidios of So- 
 nora and California, was knovi^n to be a perfect farce ; 
 as, however they might set out, they were never known 
 to arrive there — unless they chose. Assassinations were 
 frequent in the city ; and to meet a bleeding body 
 carried dangling from a litter, was no unusual event. A 
 murder took place in the very house where we lodged. 
 Thousands of drunken and gambling leperos lay about the 
 churches and piazzas of the city. 
 
 Safety to person or property on the public roads — that 
 was most doubtful. Many were robbed within a stone- 
 cast of the gates ; and the diligence from Vera Cruz 
 was, for a number of weeks successively, pillaged, as a 
 matter of course, in the Pinal between Pueblo and Mex- 
 ico, or near Perote. 
 
 After the defeat of Canalizza, the villages were hardly 
 safe, such was the number of lawless ruffians dispersed 
 about the country to the eastward : and all this was 
 winked at by the government. What a blessing a Bona- 
 parte would be for Mexico ! 
 
 In matters of religion, nothing could be more bigoted 
 and intolerant than the reform government of the coun- 
 try. The Roman Catholic religion in its blindest and 
 most revolting form, was the only one tolerated by law ; 
 and whatever there may be in other Roman Catholic 
 countries, here there would seem to be no medium be- 
 tween the grossest and most debasing superstition and 
 idolatry, and skepticism and infidelity.* The few Protes- 
 tant residents are not permitted to have a place of wor- 
 ship ; and were it not stipulated by the treaty with Great 
 Britain, they would not be allowed a place of sepulture 
 for their dead. 
 
 * It is said that there are five hundred and fifty secular, and sixteen 
 hundred and forty-six regular clergy in the capital ; that in twenty-three 
 monasteries there are twelve hundred individuals : and in fifteen con- 
 vents, about two thousand souls, of which nine hundred are professed 
 nuns. See " Notes on Mexico." 
 
MEXICO. 119 
 
 It was now the Holy Week. For several days pre- 
 vious to Palm Sunday, many preparations had been made 
 for the coming solemnities. 
 
 The surface of the canals of Chalco and Izstacalco, 
 which enter the city from the Paseo de las Vigas, was 
 daily crowded with canoes, laden with the most beautiful 
 flowers, the produce of the chinampas, or floating gar- 
 dens of the Indians, on the border of the lakes. The 
 great market was filled with palm branches, and all the 
 altars and shrines of the city were perfumed with the 
 sweet fragrance of the bouquets with which they were 
 tastefully adorned. 
 
 The fruit stalls under the arcades, and in the different 
 plazas, and the innumerable pulquerias, were decorated 
 in the same manner. The love of flowers is as marked 
 among the Indians at this day, as at the time of the con- 
 quest. 
 
 On the earlier days of the week, the interest of the 
 scene thickened hour by hour. A large proportion of 
 the population of the valley repaired to the city ; and the 
 streets were crowded with all classes, from the poor half- 
 naked Indian of the pure Ottomie or the Mexican race, 
 whose sole covering was a dingy wollen or goatskin 
 blanket, and straw hat, jacket, and calico pantaloons 
 reaching to the knee, to the vfed\i\\y paysano, or country 
 gentleman, whose costly apparel might be valued at 
 upward of five hundred dollars. About the evening of 
 Wednesday, the scene on the Plaza Mayor, in front of 
 the cathedral, baffles all description. It forms at present 
 one of the finest squares in the world ; and were it not 
 for the intrusion of the Parian, tlie large ungainly pile 
 of building in one angle, it would be perhaps without 
 rival. 
 
 The cathedral, a noble and stately structure with two 
 ornamented towers, rises to the east ; the splendid palace 
 of the viceroy on the north ; the house of Cortez, and a 
 number of equally palatial buildings to the south ; and a 
 range of fine edifices, with a basement of lofty arcades, 
 to the west. The removal of the circular balustrade, 
 
120 MEXICO. 
 
 the amphitheatre, and the equestrian statue of Charles 
 the Fourth, has left the range of the eye over the broad 
 tesselated pavement of the spacious area without ob- 
 struction. 
 
 At the close of the day in question, a portion of the 
 area in front of the portales or arcades, and before the 
 palace, appeared covered by slight erections of bamboo 
 framework thatched by matting, and shut in by a pro- 
 fusion of green branches and palm leaves. The more 
 spacious were devoted to the sale of refreshments, and 
 liquors of various kinds— lemonade, pinade, a liquor 
 called chea, and pulque ; or for that of dulces, for which 
 the city is celebrated. They not unfrequently formed a 
 booth of twelve or fourteen feet in length, with seats and 
 tables for the use of the customers. The smaller served 
 as temporary shops for the retail of trifles of every de- 
 scription — confectionary and fruits, ornaments, or articles 
 of apparel. The whole were most tastefully adorned 
 with bouquets of flowers, and at night illuminated with 
 lamps, tapers, and torches. The trade of the fair — for 
 fair it was — seemed to be chiefly in the hands of Indians, 
 or those in whom the Indian blood predominated. 
 
 The crowd thickened, and the bustle in the plaza in- 
 creased every hour. The incessant sound of the innu- 
 merable bells, and the rolling of carriages, were really 
 fatiguing to the ear. But, when the cathedral clock tolled 
 the hour of ten, on Holy Thursday, a change came over 
 the scene. The regular shops were shut, not a bell was 
 to be heard. The carriages of every description dis- 
 appeared from the streets ; not a horse or mule was to 
 be descried ; but innumerable crowds of both sexes, and 
 of all classes, rich and poor, were seen intermingling on 
 the same level, and pouring, morning and evening, in one 
 unbroken stream through the thoroughfares, and under 
 the portales. They clustered by hundreds about the 
 doors of the churches ; and by thous-ands — yes, tens of 
 thousands — on the Plaza Mayor. 
 
 All the damas of the city, dressed in black, and 
 shrouded in their mantillas^ repaired on foot from church 
 
MEXICO, Til 
 
 to church, according to the fashion which enjoins them 
 to visit as many as possible, within the prescribed lime of 
 humiliation. 
 
 This state of things lasted for forty-eight hours. In 
 the principal churches, the high altars were despoiled of 
 their rich load of ornaments, or completely veiled by 
 dark-coloured drapery ; and the organs were as mute as 
 the bells : while in all others, constant illumination, and 
 the display of gold, silver, and tawdry ornaments, was 
 fatiguingly splendid. 
 
 But do not deceive yourself: though there was an ab- 
 sence of many of the ordinary sounds, the city was not 
 silent. The trample of thousands of feet — the march of 
 stately and interminable processions — and the hum and 
 clamour of innumerable voices filled the ear ; both in the 
 ordinary tones of conversation, and exerted to their ut- 
 most pitch, as they energetically, yet lovingly called 
 the attention of the passing to their commodities. *' Aqui 
 hayjuilesP^ " Here's your sorts ! white fish !" bellowed 
 one. " Pato grande, mi alma! paio grande, venga 
 usted /" " A great duck ! oh my soul, a great duck — ■ 
 come and buy !" responded another. 
 
 You may further understand that the interiors of the 
 churches were no more the theatre of silence than the 
 streets without, when I tell you that in addition to the 
 incessant stream of worshippers which poured along 
 their pavement from one door to another the livelong 
 day — in many of them, waltzes, boleros, and polonaises, 
 from harpsichord or organ— were the accompaniment of 
 the hasty devotion of the passing multitudes. 
 
 All these sounds you may conceive, for they were after 
 all but ordinary ; but it is a moral impossibility for you 
 to imagine the extraordinary hubbub produced by the 
 sound of thousands of rattles, which filled the air from 
 morning to night. They were to be seen in the hands of 
 every individual of the lower classes, and of many of 
 the upper ; of every form and material, bone, wood, and 
 even silver ; from the size of a child's plaything, to one 
 which would outgrind half a dozen of our watchmen's 
 
 I. 
 
123 MEXICO. 
 
 rattles, and required both hands to wield. Many of the 
 stalls in the Plaza Mayor were devoted to their sale 
 alone ; while others dealt in nothing but effigies of Judas 
 Iscariot, varying in size and monstrosity, from a doll of 
 a foot long, to the size of the human figure. Hundreds 
 of them were seen tied together by the neck, and dang- 
 ling from long poles by twenty and thirty in a cluster, 
 over the heads of the mob. 
 
 At the corner of the market, nearest the plaza, where 
 it happened that the principal rattle venders had en- 
 sconced themselves, if you shut your eyes, you might 
 imagine yourself after sunset in the depth of a forest in 
 the Floridas, where a few million grasshoppers, cicada, 
 and wood bugs were at their serenade. 
 
 And so it continued from sunrise to sunset. I believe 
 myself within bounds when I assert that we saw fifty 
 thousand people collected in the great square morning 
 and evening. Sometimes the mass was so dense that 
 the booths were threatened with an overturn ; and you 
 were glad to gain the step of one of the palaces, from 
 which you might look over the sea of heads at your ease, 
 and descry the bunches of Judases hideously besmeared 
 with red and blue paint, bobbing about over the level of 
 the multitude. Then would come a stir at the other end 
 of the square : and, with a long-drawn train of crucifixes, 
 decorated banners and tapers, the clergy of one of the 
 great churches to the westward would defile into the 
 crowded area ; clearing their uninterrupted way, as 
 though by magic, to the great entrance of the cathedral, 
 through a press where, a moment before, a dog could 
 hardly have wormed his way. Some of these proces- 
 sions on the afternoon of Good Friday were more gor- 
 geous and splendid in their aspect than any I had seen in 
 Italy itself, and apparently interminable. They were 
 revolting from the hideous and disgusting representations 
 which they comprised, of the sacred scenes of the Pas- 
 sion. During the passage, the whole mass of human be- 
 ings collected on the Plaza Mayor remained kneeling in 
 silence. To what divinity ? My brain swims with the 
 recollection of the press and glare, and the confused and 
 
MEXICO. 123 
 
 intermingling pictures presented before us during these 
 two days ; and I am totally unable to disentangle from 
 the mass any connected event or spectacle worth detail- 
 ing. The whole city seemed to reel under the influence 
 of phrensy, and we were obhged to reel with it. To see 
 as much as we could, and to give no offence, were, I 
 own, our principal objects. I remember an old woman 
 who happened to be my neighbour during the passage 
 of one of the processions, who perhaps observed that I 
 was not as ready with a genuflection as the bystanders, 
 shaking a Judas, the size of a child of two years old, 
 at me, by the scuff" of the neck, and muttering to me 
 with a scowl of hatred, " See ! here is a countryman of 
 yours !" 
 
 It was a rebuke which I felt I merited — for what did I 
 there ? 
 
 During this season every church and monastery had 
 its peculiar services from morning to night. In the ca- 
 thedral I heard several ; and the music, accompanied by 
 a small orchestra, was good as to composition, though in- 
 diflferently performed. Within that noble structure I 
 remarked nothing in the general style of the rites and 
 services of a particularly undignified or revolting charac- 
 ter : but to describe the orgies enacted in the generality 
 of the other churches could but be disgusting to you. 
 The scenes of the Passion were played and turned into 
 comedy ; while waltzes and contradances were played 
 over the bier, on which the efligy of our Saviour was 
 laid out in state. On the evening of that day, after ma- 
 king the round of eighteen or twenty churches, we re- 
 turned to our quarters, thoroughly fatigued and out of 
 spirits. 
 
 At an early hour on the Saturday, preparations were 
 made to terminate the season of humiliation. What hu- 
 miliation ! On going into the streets we saw the Judases 
 — which I omitted to tell you, were, in fact, fireworks so 
 disguised — hanging by thousands over the centre of the 
 streets, and to the fronts of the houses. In the Plaza 
 Mayor, the booths had entirely disappeared ; troops 
 
124 MEXICO. 
 
 were drawn up before the palace, with the artillery m 
 advance ; and it was with the utmost difficuUy 1 could 
 make my way into the cathedral. Every part of its 
 pavement was crowded. 
 
 I had hardly made my way to the high altar, when the 
 deep bell of the church tolled half past nine, and the lofty 
 roof and the impending dome resounded with the burst 
 of sounds which instantly pervaded the great city from 
 One end to another ! Within — the trumpet and full organ 
 minglt-d their burst with the clanoj of the great bells ; 
 the dark veil which had shrouded the high altar parted 
 and rolled back, displaying the gorgeous pile of ornament 
 which it had concealed. Without — the artillery thun- 
 dered in the square — the bells of every church and con- 
 vent through the city clanged incessantly, and were an- 
 swered by those in the towns and villages far and wide 
 — the Judases exploded by thousands, and the multitude 
 hailed the conclusion of the Holy Week ! 
 
 Before an hour was at end, the streets resounded to 
 the roll of the carriages, and the sounds of innumerable 
 hoofs ; the calzadas and canals were crowded with In- 
 dians returning to their homes; the buyer and the dealer 
 repaired to their traffic ; the idler to his vices, and the 
 gambler to the monte table. The robber, exulting un- 
 der his lightened conscience, betook himself to his stand 
 in the pine forest, to commence a fresh career of rapine ; 
 and the assassin to the resumption of his cherished 
 schemes of blood and vengeance. The reopening of the 
 opera was publicly announced, and the citizens joyfully 
 anticipated the recommencement of bullfights. 
 
 And this is Christianity ! and the worship of the only 
 true God 1 to introduce which, in place of existing su- 
 perstitions, the blood of millions of the blind heathen of 
 this vast region was shed by its Spanish conquerors 1 The 
 plea for all the cruelties exercised against the aborigines 
 was their idolatry, and their inhuman sacrifices ; and the 
 most exaggerated statements, suited to excite the horror 
 and extinguish the compassion of the bigoted Catholics 
 of Europe, were found necessary, and were made, to pal- 
 
MEXICO. 125 
 
 liate, in some degree, the undeniable enormities perpe- 
 trated upon the Indians. 
 
 The detestable character of the ignorant idolatry in 
 exercise among the ancient race needs no demonstratJDn ; 
 yet, at the present day, with the exception of the single 
 item of human sacrifice as a part of the religious system, 
 it may well be asked, by what has it been supplanted — 
 fewer and more dignified divinities ? purer rites ? a less 
 degrading superstition? less disgusting ignorance ? a bet' 
 ter system of morality ? Who will dare assert it ? 
 
 As to the charge of the inhuman rites, and the bloody 
 festivals of the later generations of the Aztecs — the mag- 
 nitude of which, as asserted by the Roman Catholic his- 
 torians, is almost incredible — no one offers to palliate 
 them. 
 
 You are shown with obsequious eagerness the huge 
 round Stone of Sacrifices ; you are told to mark the hol- 
 low for the head of the victim, and the groove which 
 carried off his blood ; your ears tingle when they are 
 filled with the number of those who are supposed to 
 have been immolated upon its carved surface. You turn 
 and see the huge and detestable figure of the idol god- 
 dess Teoyamiqui, before whom, as Spanish historians 
 relate, the hearts of the victims were torn out : yes ! but 
 ofiicious cicerone leads you to the court of the Domini- 
 can convent, and points to the broad perforated stone, 
 where the hundreds and thousands of poor benighted, 
 ignorant heathen, expired at the stake amid smoke and 
 flame. No one reminds you that about the time when 
 the idolatrous worship of the Aztecs was extirpated in 
 Mexico, the same Inquisition, then in its first flush of 
 power, burned eighteen thousand victims at the stake, in 
 the Old World ; and consigned two hundred and eight 
 thousand to infamy and punishment scarcely better than 
 death itself. The simple fact is, that at the present day, 
 dark as we consider it, the Roman Catholicism of Eu- 
 rope is light, when compared to that established in this 
 country, and practised by its inhabitants. 
 
 A change of names — a change of form and garb for 
 the idols — new symbols— altered ceremonials — another 
 
 l2 
 
126 MEXICO. 
 
 race of priests — so much and no more has been effected 
 forthe Indians. 
 
 The change was easily made. The ancient supersti- 
 tion abounded with fasts, feasts, and penances ; so did 
 the new. The whole system of the aboriginal religious 
 hierarchy bears a singular resemblance to that which 
 took its place under the domination of Spain. Even the 
 monk found his vocation excite no surprise ; the exist- 
 ence of retjular orders of celibates of both sexes, whose 
 lives were devoted to the service of certain among their 
 gods, seems indisputable. 
 
 With the Indians, Teotl, the unknown God — ^^he hi/ 
 whom we live^ as he was termed — he whom they 
 never represented in idol form — is still the Supreme Be- 
 ing under the name of Dios. They continue to adore 
 the god Quetzalcoatl — the Feathered Serpent, under the 
 name of San Thomas. It is indifferent to them, whether 
 the evil spirit is called Diablo, or Tlacatecolototl. They 
 retain their superstition, their talismans, their charms ; 
 and as they were priest led under the old system, so they 
 are kept in adherence to the church of Rome, by the 
 continual bustle of the festivals, and ceremonials, and 
 processions of the church. But as to change of heart 
 and purpose — a knowledge of the true God as "a Spirit, 
 who is to be worshipped in spirit and in truth ;" a sense 
 of their degraded and fallen state as men, and an ac- 
 quaintance with the truths of the true gospel ; its appli- 
 cation to their individual state, and its influence upon 
 their lives and characters, they are as blind and ignorant 
 as their forefathers. 
 
 I should not think I was hazarding much, were I to 
 say that all classes, high and low, participate in this dark- 
 ness, to a degree which is truly almost incredible ; and 
 the proofs are the countenance and support given to the 
 degrading system, with its revolting, childish, and super- 
 stitious ceremonies ; the low state of public and private 
 morals; and the supine and contented ignorance, which 
 they cherish with a jealousy that would be ludicrous^ 
 were it not lamentable* 
 
MEXICO. 127 
 
 Among other signs of the weakness of the existing 
 government, the neglect and decay of many of the pubUc 
 institutions are not to be overlooked. 
 
 The importance of the mint to the revenues of the 
 country, renders its maintenance an object of state pol- 
 icy ; but the university, the museum, the public library, 
 the splendid mineria, or schools of the mines ; many of 
 the noble hospitals of Spanish foundation, and the acad- 
 emy of arts, were, at the time of our visit, in a state of 
 general neglect shameful to the government and people. 
 The botanic garden, which occupies an interior court of 
 the palace, is also but indifferently maintained under the 
 care of an old badger of a functionary, who will make 
 you up a packet of the most vulgar and ordinary garden 
 seeds, and charge you fifty dollars for it with the best 
 assurance of conscience in the world. 
 
 But to go into the details of these matters would be to 
 write a book instead of a letter. 
 
 Though in the last degree of confusion, the museum, 
 which is in the palace, presents a scene of great interest ; 
 as, besides a multitude of rare and unique works illus- 
 trative of the history of the country, and a great quantity 
 of the most curious antiquities, it contains many of the 
 most remarkable records of the conquest. But all are 
 in the most appalling disorder — a disorder which has, 
 by-the-by, favoured numerous thefts. The same obser- 
 vation applies to the state of the more massive antiquities 
 which have been, from time to time, brought to light; 
 such as the Stone of Sacrifice, the Feathered Serpent, 
 the idol Goddess of War, and many others, all of which 
 have been described at large a hundred times. There 
 they lie, half covered with dust, dirt, and rubbish, in a 
 corner of the court of the university; to whose area the 
 fine bronze equestrian statue of Charles the Fourth has 
 also been exiled, by the levelling, king-hating repub- 
 licans. 
 
 The great Toltec Calendar is seen to more advantage, 
 from its being inserted in a conspicuous position into the 
 wall of the cathedral, which, I have elsewhere mentioned^ 
 
128 MEXICO. 
 
 is built on the site of the principal teocalli of the Mexi- 
 cans, dedicated to the god Mexitli.* 
 
 Wonder has often been expressed, why so few rem- 
 nants of the ancient city are to be found, and how com- 
 pletely the vestiges of its existence have been swept 
 from the large area which it once occupied. The site 
 of a few of the principal buildings is known ; and here 
 and there, fragments have been unearthed, and this is 
 all. That the greater proportion of the dwellings should 
 have disappeared, no one need marvel, when it is recol- 
 lected that ihey were merely built of layers of unburnt 
 clay ; that the numerous canals were filled up with the 
 ruins ; and, moreover, that the mode resorted to by 
 Cortez, according to his own account, in gaining posses- 
 sion of the city, was literally to level every house and 
 street as soon as it was won. But still I am satisfied 
 that these causes, however plausible, are not sufficient 
 to account for the fact altogether ; but that a most sedu- 
 lously jealous and concerted system of destruction and 
 inhumation must have been pursued by the conquerors 
 with reference to all relics of the ancient race. 
 
 It may be supposed, that a people that proves itself 
 so little disposed to appreciate treasures of this nature, 
 would show but little ardour in their being brought to 
 light and preserved ; and whatever is discovered, is dis- 
 covered by chancCo Foreigners have occasionally insti- 
 tuted a search in suitable localities, and have made valu- 
 able discoveries ; but the existing law, which prohibits 
 the exportation of antiquities under any pretence, has 
 put a stop even to their labours. 
 
 Indeed, at all times, the inhabitants of this city, even 
 w^ien most civilized, and numbering many menof educa- 
 
 * The first great temple named in the history of the kings, is that in 
 the reign of the sixth monarch, Axayacatl, in 1470, who erected a tower 
 of nine floors in honour of the Creator. The seventh king, Tizoc, col- 
 lected materials for a very great temple, which his son, the eighth mon- 
 arch, finished ; when, Clavigero states, 8,000,000 of people came to the 
 dedication ; and all the prisoners made during four years, in number 
 72,344, were ranged in two files, a mile and a half long, and were sacri- 
 ficed. This was probably the great one which formed the main citadel 
 of the Mexicans at the taking of the city. 
 
MEXICO. 129 
 
 tion, have been singularly apathetic with regard to the 
 vestiges of the ancient people upon w^hose seat of em- 
 pire they had established themselves by the right of 
 conquest. For two entire centuries the same insane 
 and bigoted spirit of wanton destruction, wliich the 
 Spanish historians show to have influenced the con- 
 querors, and to have caused the annihilation of much 
 that was curious and valuable, seems to have possessed 
 their descendants to a very late epoch, if not to the pres- 
 ent day. 
 
 There is ample proof of this, in a pamphlet* now be- 
 coming rare, published by De Gama, a Spanish savant, 
 in 1792, to give a description of the two most remarka- 
 ble of the Toltec antiquities, the Goddess of War, and the 
 Sacrificial Stone,both of which were discovered accident- 
 ally two years previous. 
 
 The goddess Teoyamiqui, or Cohuatlicue,f as De 
 Gama calls her, is a colossal figure about nine feet high, 
 hewn out of a solid block of basalt. The breadth is 
 about five feet, and it is three feet in thickness. It is 
 sculptured on all sides, and even underneath the feet, 
 having evidently been suspended at a height from the 
 ground, by two projections at the sides. The whole 
 configuration is the most hideous and deformed that the 
 fancy can paint, being a mass of serpents of all sizes, 
 with claws and tusks of ravenous beasts ornamented 
 with human hearts and sculls. 
 
 The Stone of Sacrifices is a cylindrical mass of por- 
 phyry, of twenty-five feet in circumference, covered 
 both on the surface and sides with sculpture in relief. 
 It is strongly urged that this was not the altar implied 
 by the popular name, but one of the stones termed te- 
 malacatl, on which gladiatorial combats between prison- 
 ers of rank and the Mexican warriors took place on 
 
 * Descripcion y cronologica de ]os piedras con ocasion del nuevo, 
 empedrado que se esta formendo en la plaza principal de Mejico se hal- 
 laron en alia. Ano de 1790, &c. — por Don Antonio de Leon y Gama. 
 
 t Two different personages, by-lhe-by. Teoyamiqui was the wife of 
 Huitzipoctli, the god of war; while Cohuatlicue was the goddess of 
 flowers. — Humboldi's Researches, vol. i., p. 266, 
 
130 MEXICO. 
 
 solemn occasions. I have but little hesitation in assert- 
 ing that the groove in the upper surface formed no part 
 of the original design. 
 
 It has been surmised that this is the "exceedingly- 
 great stone" which was discovered by the Mexicans as 
 late as the reign of Montezuma, when it is recorded that 
 it was brought to the capital with great labour and pomp 
 for the sacrifices : on which occasion 12,210 victims 
 were immolated. 
 
 It may fairly be credited that many of these antiquities 
 were the work of a people anterior to the Aztecs. 
 
 No doubt can be entertained but that their systems for 
 the computation of time were transmitted to them from 
 the Toltecs. 
 
 The great Calendar Stone is a vast mass of basaltic 
 porphyry, twenty-four tons weight, covered with the 
 most symmetrical and admirable hieroglyphics. 
 
 Two several calendars were in use among the abo- 
 rigines, namely: the Reckoning of the Sun^usedi for civil 
 purposes, and the Calendar of the Moon, employed to 
 regulate their religious festivals.* 
 
 The Reckoning of the Sun was briefly as follows.f 
 The civil year consisted of three hundred and sixty four 
 days, divided into eighteen months of twenty days each, 
 with exception of the last, to which the five odd days 
 were added. But evidently knowing that the tropical 
 year exceeded their year by six hours, they, after the 
 termination of each cycle of fifty-two years, added thir- 
 teen days before they recommenced the first month of 
 the following cycle, and thus adjusted their time. 
 Each of the eighteen months has a certain name from 
 some natural object characteristic of the particular 
 season which it indicated, or from some particular 
 festival or employment in which they were engaged at 
 
 * Their numerals were indicated as far as nineteen by round dots ; 
 the number twenty had a particular sign, as well as 400 and 8000, and, 
 this is all that is known of their system of notation. 
 
 t See Humboldt, M'Culloh, &c., &c. 
 
MEXICO. 131 
 
 such times. The twenty days were also named, and 
 like the months, had their hieroglyphic sign. Every 
 fifth day throughout the month was a market day. In 
 recording the events of their history, the precise cycle 
 of fifty-two years in which a given circumstance oc- 
 curred, v/as first indicated, and not the century, as with 
 us, and consequently the cycles were numbered from a 
 certain epoch. 
 
 The year of the cycle in which an event happened 
 was not indicated by its number, but by a more complex 
 mode, which I will briefly explain. The cycle of fifty- 
 two years was subdivided into four equal parts of thir- 
 teen years each, called tlalpilli ; one of four hieroglyphic 
 signs — Tochli, a rahhit — Acatl, a reed — Tecpatl, a Jlmt 
 — and Calli, a house, were applied to each year in suc- 
 cession, throughout the fifty-two ; and thus in every 
 cycle there would be thirteen years designated by each 
 sign. The number of each of the thirteen years com- 
 posing each of the four tlalpilli was designated by dots ; 
 and the Mexican in pointing out the year of any event, 
 would first name the number of the cycle, say two — 
 then the number of the tlalpilli in such a cycle, say four 
 — then the number of the year in such a tlalpilli, say 
 three, and then the hieroglyphic sign of the year. So 
 cycle . . 5 — tlalpilli .... , — year . . . , — 
 and the sign Acatl, will indicate the forty- second year, 
 in the second cycle of their history. Each succeeding 
 fourth year, coming under the sign of the rahhit, was 
 called a " divine year ;" and, at the termination of the 
 cycle of fifty-two years, a solemn astronomical festival 
 was held. 
 
 The Reckoning of the Moon was yet more complex, 
 and I will only allude to its main features. Their " reli- 
 gious year" was composed of a series of periods of thir- 
 teen days, alternating with the hieroglyphics of the twenty 
 days of the month in the civil year, by which a cycle of 
 two hundred and sixty days is formed. 
 
 Seventy-three cycles of two hundred and sixty days 
 amounted exactly to fifty-two years, so that their great 
 
132 MEXICO. 
 
 religious cycle terminated and began with the civil cycle 
 described above. A larger cycle of 2340 days was fur- 
 ther produced by the introduction of a series of hiero- 
 glyphics, nine in number, and called the Lords of the 
 Night; eight of which, with the addition of one of the 
 smaller cycles of two hundred and sixty, would amount 
 to the civil cycle of fifty-two years. 
 
 From whatever source the ancient people of these 
 countries derived their correct knowledge of the revolu- 
 tions of the sun and moon, and their peculiar astronomi- 
 cal system, the analogies which have been detected be- 
 tween them and with those of Asia are most conclusive 
 as to the fact of their having had one common origin. 
 
 The week of five days, the subdivision of the larger 
 cycles, the nomenclature of the years, the regulation of 
 festivals according to half lunations, the method of inter- 
 calation, the proportion between the number of years of 
 the cycle and the intercalary period- — all lead one to 
 believe that the Mexican astronomical system, as well 
 as those of the Chaldeans, Persians, and Hindoos, was 
 based upon the principles of antediluvian science, the 
 knowledge of which was common to the descendants of 
 Noah, in the centuries preceding the confusion of tongues 
 and general dispersion of the human race. 
 
 But to return for an instant to De Gama. We learn 
 from him that the monstrous goddess was discovered in 
 consequence of an excavation made in the Plaza Mayor, 
 on the 13th of August, 1790, exactly, to a day, two hun- 
 dred and sixty-nine years after the capture of the city 
 by Cortez. The head lay at the depth of only one vara 
 and a third below the surface, and the foot but one single 
 vara or less. It was the 25th of September before it 
 was finally extricated. On the 17th of December fol- 
 lowing, the Sacrificial Stone was found, at the depth of 
 but a foot and a half below the pavement. Other relics 
 were discovered subsequently. Some of the largest 
 were instantly buried again, and among the number, 
 those named. Others were destroyed ; and no doubt 
 seems to exist, but that at this very hour, at a very small 
 
MlGXlCO. 133 
 
 *^^pih in this central part of the city, a vast quantity of 
 these colossal and curious remains of a forgotten people 
 lie hidden from the day. 
 
 So little was De Gama's admirable treatise upon these 
 monuments understood or appreciated, that he had but 
 t)ne hundred and seventy-two subscribers for his pam- 
 phlet of one hundred and sixteen pages ; and it is doubt- 
 ful whether he found sufficient encouragement to pub- 
 lish a second treatise upon the Calendar and other mon= 
 uments subsequently found, as he hints his intention of 
 doing, in case that the sale of his first adventure covered 
 the expense of the impression and the plates. 
 
 He gives (page 110) a description of a cluster of most 
 curiously sculptured rocks, discovered in the Cerro of 
 Chapultepec, in the year 1775, while labourers w^ere 
 carrying on certain excavations. After a most careful 
 examination, he conceived them to form part of an astro- 
 nomical contrivance, by which the ancient Mexicans 
 were enabled to determine the meridian, the exact time 
 of sunrise and sunset at the equinoxes, and thus the 
 true time throughout the year. In recording, on his next 
 return to Chapultepec, the utter annihilation of these 
 valuable relics of an extraordinary people, he feelingly 
 exclaims, " How many precious monuments of antiquity 
 liave thus perished through ignorance i"* 
 
 LETTER VIL 
 
 Our allotted period of sojourn in the country, which 
 we now felt to be lamentably brief, passed swiftly away 
 amid the excitement of our position ; and, urged by the 
 feeling that necessity would compel us to leave Mexico 
 at the commencement of May, we prepared, early in 
 
 * Quantos preciosos monumentos de la antiqiiedad per falta de intei*^ 
 ligensia, habran parecido an esta manera I 
 
 M 
 
134 PENON VIEJO. 
 
 April, to make an excursion of a few days in the envi- 
 rons of the capital. 
 
 Accordingly, on the 8th of that month, for the especial 
 solace ;md service of the invalid of the party, a huge un- 
 wieldy Mexican stage carriage, swinging to and fro upon 
 its scaffolding, drove majestically up to the door of the 
 Gran Sociedad, at the heels often mules, furnished with 
 faded trappings and harness, and with tail pieces of brass- 
 studded leather, shaped exactly like a beaver's trowel. 
 M'Euen and myself on horseback, backed by our two 
 equeries Garcias and Mariano, (the latter a new ac- 
 quisition,) acted as escort. All were, of course, armed 
 to the teeth, and felt very valiant. Two mozos presided 
 over the mules. 
 
 The coach was, by-the-by, not so much amiss ; for it 
 was of a strength of construction, which might have 
 made it available as a temporary citadel, on a pinch — 
 and once put in motion, it went lumbering over the pave- 
 ment, and out of the gate of San Lazaro, to the new 
 calzada, leading towards the mountains beyond the 
 southern limits of the Lake Tezcuco. 
 
 The morning was splendidly bright, and the air of 
 matchless purity. 
 
 The causeway runs straight towards the volcanic mass, 
 called the Peiion Viejo, situated on the ancient shore of 
 the lake to the south, and which is to be distinguished 
 from the other peiion of similar origin, containing the 
 hot baths, and lying between the city and the lake. 
 
 For man}' miles we continued by its aid to traverse a 
 range of wide-spread flats, from which the waters of the 
 lake have long retired, leaving a surface but indifferently 
 calculated for cultivation, from the spongy character of 
 the soil, and the carbonate of soda forming upon its sur- 
 face. The higher portions are subjected to a rude system 
 of drainage and agriculture ; and numerous herds of 
 cattle were scattered over it. 
 
 We found Pen on Viejo to be a huge discoloured mass 
 of fused matter, abounding in caverns ; and displaying 
 throughout the play of the fierce element, to whose 
 action it owes its elevation from the abyss. 
 
LAKE TEZCUCO. 135 
 
 As we proceeded, one pile of volcanic hills after the 
 other started into isolated prominence on our left, disen- 
 tangling themselves from their neighbours, and from the 
 more distant ranges, with which they had hitherto ap- 
 peared to be connected. Cones, which from the roofs 
 of the city had appeared to rise from one common ridge, 
 we now discovered to be separated by broad strips of 
 level marsh. I believe I forgot to mention among our 
 excursions, one which we had made some time before, 
 from the Hacienda San Antonio to the great group of 
 volcanic hills beyond Mejicalzingo, which consists, as 
 far as I could determine, of three truncated cones, rising 
 progressively in bulk and height, one over the other, from 
 the surface of the plain. On this occasion we had con- 
 trived to scramble up the steep sides of the lowest, con- 
 sisting of abrupt slopes covered with rotten scoria, and 
 gained the brink of the crater, which in its present state 
 forms a smooth, grass-covered bowl, of about a mile in 
 circumference. 
 
 After passing the Penon Viejo, we approached the 
 foot of the volcanic cone of the Ajotla ; but then quitting 
 the great calzada at Santa Martha, followed a track over 
 the half-dried marshes at the southernmost extremity of 
 Lake Tezcuco to the village of Santa Madalenda, on 
 terra firma. 
 
 As we rode in front of the old church and dark group of 
 Italian cypress of the village, and, turning northward, 
 advanced over a hilly tract of country, spotted by herds 
 of cattle and haciendas, towards Chapingo, the views 
 increased in beauty and interest at every step. Popo- 
 catepetl, and its neighbour, now rose to the southward 
 over the summits of the innumerable cones in the middle 
 ground. Both were covered with snow to a far greater 
 extent than on our arrival three weeks before ; and even 
 the xAjusco appeared sprinkled to a considerable extent. 
 The whole breadth of the lake was now interposed be- 
 tween us and the city, and a most singular optical illusion 
 was displayed from the effect of the mirage : the white 
 edifices and coloured domes of the capital appearing 
 afloat, hke a fleet of snowy sails, upon the blue surface 
 
IS§ THE LAKE^l 
 
 of the water, which seemingly extended far on the other 
 side, up to the very base of the rock of Chapultepec, and 
 of the mountains behind. The Penon de los Banos ap- 
 peared once more as an island ; and this, which was now 
 a deceptive and unreal picture, was the fact three hun- 
 dred years ago. 
 
 The phenomena exhibited by the lakes of Mexico are 
 extremely interesting. 
 
 Though indisputably the hand of man has done much 
 towards the altered state of things as far as regards the 
 diminution of water in the lakes, yet it is probable that 
 natural causes, tending to the same results, have been in 
 operation for ages ; perhaps, ever since the day when 
 the cessation of violent volcanic convulsions left the basin 
 and table land of Mexico, with all its chaotic parts, fluid 
 or solid, to the sway of the ordinary and more gentle 
 operations of nature. 
 
 It is improbable that there was ever a regular influx of 
 water, from whatever source it may have proceeded, at 
 all commensurate with the great evaporation which^ 
 under the influence of the climate, and the physical con- 
 struction of the country, must always have taken place. 
 
 Of the five lakes of Mexico — Tezcuco, Xochimilco, 
 Chalco, Cristobal, and Zumpango — that of Tezcuco is 
 the largest, the most central, the most impregnated with 
 saline particles, and lies at the lowest level.* Not one 
 of them possesses a natural outlet from the valley of Mex- 
 ico ; and in case of the overflow of any of the four 
 lakes, Tezcuco is the only reservoir into which they 
 can disembogue themselves. The streams falling into 
 Tezcuco, Xochimilco, and Cristobal, are so inconsider- 
 able as to be of litfle or no account ; but both Chalco at 
 the southern, and Zumpango at the northern extremity 
 of the chain, receive streams of a considerable volume^ 
 calculated, under a combination of causes, to throw so 
 large a body of water into their respective reservoirs, as 
 to produce a most extraordinary overflow, and a con- 
 sequent rise of the waters in Lake Tezcuco. Such, tra- 
 
 * At the height of 7,468 feet above the s$^ 
 
CHAPINGO. 137 
 
 dition states to have been the case on various occasions 
 prior to the conquest ; and even since the seventeenth 
 century, the waters of Tezcuco have risen to such a 
 height, that the city has been greatly endangered by it, 
 most of the streets on one occasion remaining many feet 
 under water for between four and five years consecu- 
 tively.* The pavement of the Plaza Major itself, the 
 highest ground in the city of Mexico, is several feet lower 
 than the surface of Lake Chalco. 
 
 Nevertheless, such is the combined effect of the ex- 
 traordinary evaporation from the dry and naked surface 
 of the table land, raised above the clouds, and fully ex- 
 posed to the sun's rays ; the diminished power of re- 
 plenishment; the decreasing infiltration, from the de- 
 struction of woods and forests both, on the plains and 
 the surrounding mountains, laying the unprotected soil 
 bare to the action of the ardent sun and rarified air ; 
 and lastly, the effect of the artificial means employed by 
 the Spaniards two centuries ago, to carry off the super- 
 abundant waters of the lake to the northward, that all 
 the lakes have retired on every side into narrower limits, 
 and the surface of Tezcuco in particular has become 
 circumscribed far within its original bounds. 
 
 The present shore is already 14,763 feet from the cen- 
 tre of the city, which it once surrounded ; and on every 
 side, as 1 have described, wide flats and marshy meadows 
 mark its ancient bed. 
 
 The great Hacienda of Chapingo, which we reached 
 shortly afternoon, lies some miles distant from the shore 
 of the lake, directly opposite Mexico. By the circuitous 
 route we had taken, that city lay about nine leagues dis- 
 tant, but as the bird flies, it could not have been more 
 than eleven or twelve miles. The intendant of the ha- 
 cienda, to whom we had brought a letter of introduction, 
 was from home ; but we were courteously received and 
 entertained by one of the upper domestics of this spa- 
 
 * A.D. 1553, 1580, 1605-1607 were years of inundation ; and on 
 June 20, 1627, the capital was laid under water from such a combination 
 of causes, and remained so till the year 1634- 
 
 M 2 
 
138 HtJEJUTLA. 
 
 cious establishment ; breakfasting with uncommon zest 
 after our preparatory ride of seven hours. 
 
 The estate attached to the hacienda is one of the 
 most princely and productive in the valley of Mexico. 
 In old times it had belonged, vrith much valuable land 
 on the same side of the lake, to the Jesuits. Later it 
 came into possession of the Marquis Vibanco, and now 
 appertains to the exiled General Moran. The dwelling 
 house, though spacious, is hardly worthy of the size and 
 construction of the adjoining offices ; among which the 
 two troges, or barns, are distinguished for their vast 
 size and massive architecture. The largest, which we 
 rudely measured, forms one immense apartment of sev- 
 enty yards in length, by twenty-two in breadth. They 
 are calculated to hold the whole of the ample produce 
 of maize and wheat yielded by the estate. The land is 
 rendered extremely productive, by the excellent system 
 of irrigation to which it is subjected. The water is con- 
 veyed hither from the mountains to the east, by means 
 of stone conduits. Ward computes the annual income 
 derived from this property at 60,000 dollars. 
 
 Leaving the carriage and the mules to find their way 
 to the town of Tezcuco, at the distance of a short 
 league, we got on horseback in the course of the after- 
 noon, to visit some of the objects of interest in the 
 neighbourhood. The frequent occurrence of deep fis- 
 sures in the surface of the plain, compelled us to makes 
 circuitous route, to gain the ancient but decayed town 
 of Huejutla, now reduced to a mere Indian hamlet, while 
 the large church erected by the Spaniards soon after the 
 conquest, and its singular Aztec ruins, mark it to have 
 been a place of considerable consequence both before 
 and after that period. 
 
 The church stands upon a raised platform, from which 
 you descend to a second walled enclosure by a broad 
 flight of steps. This enclosure is covered with sward, 
 and overshadowed by seventeen noble olive trees, which 
 tradition states to have been the first planted by the con- 
 querors in New Spain. Their venerable appearance 
 attests their great age. 
 
HUEJUTLA. 139 
 
 The Indian remains are various in their character ? 
 but for the most part heaps of rubbish. The wall of the 
 palace is, however, one of the greatest curiosities in the 
 country. It is still of considerable extent ; and, where 
 uninjured, seems to have been between twenty and thirty 
 feet in height, and of six to eight feet in thickness. It 
 is not built in a uniform manner, but varies in the form 
 and distribution of the masonry at different points of ele- 
 vation. About the mid height there is a layer of com- 
 pact stonework, composed of long cylindrical masses^ 
 disposed with the circular ends outward. In following 
 this wall for some distance to the eastward, it is found to 
 abut suddenly upon a deep fissure or barranca, running 
 east and west, and forming a natural defence on that 
 side. The road crosses it by the celebrated arched 
 bridge, concerning which antiquaries are divided in 
 opinion ; the sanguine and hot headed insisting that, how- 
 ever improbable, it is of genuine Indian construction, 
 and formed a part of the original erections in its vicinity; 
 at the same time that the cool and plodding deny the 
 probability, and even assert the impossibility. It cer- 
 tainly would be a singular anomaly, to find in this single 
 instance, the principle of the arch so well developed, 
 while in every part of the continent to the northward, 
 and on the plateau of Mexico, you evidently see that the 
 ancient architects were ignorant of the science and prin- 
 ciple : but for all that, my impression after I had studied 
 it in every part was, that there was as much to be said 
 on one side as upon the other. It is of the rudest con- 
 struction, far too much so to be Spanish in its origin ; and 
 precisely of that acute form which, as it appears to me^ 
 would be the most natural for a timid architect, upon 
 whose mind the truth of the principle had just dawned, 
 to adopt in his first trials. The height above the bed of 
 the barranca is about forty feet. A hunt after portable 
 antiquities among the Indian huts was rewarded by the 
 acquisition of an ugly monster of an idol in a sitting 
 posture, delftly carved in a hard volcanic substance. 
 He was perfect, with the exception of a corner of his 
 mouth, into which the Indian who unearthed hkn had 
 
140 TEZCOZINGO. 
 
 driven the nose of his ploughshare, demolishing a few of 
 his teeth ; and as he was pronounced worth carriage, he 
 was henceforth, under the high-sounding name of Huit- 
 zilipoctli, accommodated with a seat in the coach, by the 
 side of his purchaser. 
 
 We now turned our attention towards the conical 
 mountain of Tezcozingo, an inferior spur of the great 
 chain to the east ; and skirting the town of Tezcuco, 
 bore off in that direction. The country exhibited many 
 plantations of maguey, and the villages were interspersed 
 with hedges of tall organ cactus. Long before we got 
 to the church of La Navidad, which at a distance seemed 
 close under the steep and pointed hill upon which the 
 object of our search, the Baiio de Montezuma, was situ- 
 ated, it became apparent that night would overtake us 
 in the midst of our excursion. But nothing daunted, we 
 galloped forward over the great plain ; and under the 
 direction of an Indian guide, whose assistance was se- 
 cured at the last village, and crossing a deep barranca, 
 we began to ascend the mountain through the scattered 
 plantations of nopal and maguey. Fragments of pottery, 
 and broken pieces of obsidian knives and arrows ; pieces 
 of stucco, shattered terraces, and old walls, were thickly 
 dispersed over its whole surface. We soon found farther 
 advance on horseback impracticable ; and attaching our 
 patient steeds to the nopal bushes, we followed our In- 
 dian guide on foot ; scrambling upward, over rock and 
 through tangled brushwood. On gaining the narrow 
 ridge which connects the conical hill with one at the rear, 
 we found the remains of a wall and causeway ; and a 
 little higher, reached a recess, where, at the foot of a 
 small precipice, overhung with Indian fig and grass, the 
 rock had been wrought by hand into a flat surface of 
 large dimensions. In this perpendicular wall of rock, a 
 carved Toltec Calendar existed formerly; but the Indians 
 finding the place visited occasionally by foreigners from 
 the capital, took it into their heads that there must be a 
 silver vein there ; and straightway set to work to find it, 
 obliterating the sculpture, and driving a level beyond it 
 into the hard rock for several yards. 
 
MONTEZUMA'S BATH. 141 
 
 From this recess, a few minutes' climb brought us to 
 the summit of the hill. The sun was on the point of set- 
 ting over the mountains on the other side of the valley, 
 and the view spread beneath our feet was most glorious. 
 The whole of the lake of Tezcuco, with the country and 
 mountains on both sides, lay stretched before us. 
 
 But, however disposed, v/e dared not stop long to gaze 
 and admire, but descending a little obliquely, soon came 
 to the so-called bath, two singular basins, of perhaps two 
 feet and a half diameter, cut into a bastionlike, solid 
 rock, projecting from the general outline of the hill, and 
 surrounded by smooth carved seats and grooves, as we 
 supposed ; for I own the whole appearance of the lo- 
 cality was perfectly inexplicable to me. I have a sus- 
 picion, that many of these horizontal planes and grooves 
 were contrivances to aid their astronomical observations, 
 like that I have mentioned having been discovered by 
 De Gama at Chapultepec. 
 
 As to Montezuma's Bath — it might be his foot bath 
 if you will, but it would be an impossibility for any 
 monarch of larger dimensions than Oberon to take a 
 duck in it. 
 
 This mountain bears the marks of human industry to 
 its very apex, many of the blocks of porphyry of which 
 it is composed being quarried into smooth horizontal 
 planes. It is impossible to say at present what portion 
 of the surface is artificial or not, such is the state of con- 
 fusion observable in every part. 
 
 By what means nations unacquainted with the use of 
 iron constructed works of such a smooth polish, in rocks 
 of such hardness, it is extremely difficult to say. Many 
 think tools of mixed tin and copper were employed ; 
 others, that patient friction was one of the main means 
 resorted to. Whatever may have been the real appro- 
 priation of these inexplicable ruins, or the epoch of their 
 construction, there can be no doubt but the whole of this 
 hill, which 1 should suppose rises five or six hundred feet 
 above the level of the plain, was covered with artificial 
 works of one kind or another. They are, doubtless, 
 rather of Toltec than of Aztec origin, and perhaps with 
 
142 TEZCUCO. 
 
 still yet more probability attributable to a people of an 
 age yet more remote. 
 
 Our descent was rapid. It was night by the time we 
 crept forth from the deep barranca which separates the 
 base of the hill of Tezcozingo from the plains, and gained 
 La Navidad. The wind blew cold, but we galloped 
 swiftly onward, and in less than one hour's time reached 
 the meson at Tezcuco, where our servants and carriage 
 had long before preceded us. The arrival of four armed 
 horsemen at that time of the evening seemed to excite 
 some sensation in the little town, and the rumour soon 
 reached the commandant, who thought proper to pay us 
 an official but very shy visit : and after beins: satisfied 
 that we were good men and true, apologized, by saying 
 that times were bad, and it had been suspected we were 
 some of Canalizza's insurgents. Next came, also offi- 
 cially announced, the secretary of the alcalde, with a 
 similar polite request, that we would aay wHq we were ; 
 also backed by an humble apology, with this variation, 
 that it had been rumoured that we were a party of La- 
 drones or banditti ! By means of the information gained 
 by these several functionaries, however, the good people 
 of Tezcuco were now enabled to sleep in peace and 
 quiet, leaving the strangers within their walls to their 
 repose also. 
 
 There are but few remains exposed to the observation 
 of a superficial and hasty observer, to vindicate the an- 
 cient claim of Tezcuco to be considered as the second 
 city of the Mexican empire. Yet so it incontestibly was, 
 according to the Spanish historians, and I have no doubt 
 but a careful survev might bring to light much of a most 
 mterestmg character to the antiquary. 
 
 The ruins of tumuli, and other constructions of un- 
 baked bricks, intermingled with platforms and terraces 
 of considerable extent, are still to be traced ; and it 
 is asserted that many of the Spanish edifices are con- 
 structed out of the ruins of the teocallis, or of the 
 palaces, which existed here at the time the Spaniards 
 built the present town. 
 
THE CONTADOR. 143 
 
 I feel more regret than I can describe, at the hasty 
 manner in which we were obliged, by a sort of neces- 
 sity, to slur over our survey of this interesting site, which 
 is one of those to which 1 should more particularly di- 
 rect the attention of any friend of mine who may turn 
 his steps towards New Spain. 
 
 Here Cortez made his preparations for his last suc- 
 cessful attempt upon the capital of the empire ; and the 
 spot where he launched his brigantines is still indicated 
 by a bridge called the Puente des Brigantinas, almost 
 close to the town. At that time, the lake must have 
 been in near proximity ; but, as at Mexico itself, a long 
 level of nearly two leagues in breadth is to be traversed 
 before you gain its shallow waters. 
 
 There was one remarkable object upon this broad ex- 
 tent of plain, to which our attention had been particu- 
 larly directed by the virtuosi of the capital ; and that 
 was the Contador, a grove of cypress vulgarly called 
 "Montezuma's Garden." 
 
 Accordingly, the following morning we mounted our 
 horses early, and left the carriage to be packed during 
 our absence. We had no sooner escaped from the gar- 
 dens and enclosures in the immediate vicinity of the town, 
 than we saw the Contador before us, breaking the uni- 
 formity of the great level in advance, by its mass of 
 dark foliage. 
 
 Not a tree or a hillock is to be found in the vicinity 
 of this remarkable grove ; which formerly must have 
 been completely surrounded by the lake. 
 
 The trees composing it may be between three and 
 four hundred in number, disposed to a square of con- 
 siderable size, partly open to the east. A smaller paral- 
 lelogram, higher than the surrounding soil, is to be ob- 
 served at the northeast corner, with a deep ditch round 
 it. I found, upon examination, that this was a porphy- 
 ritic rock. 
 
 The interior of the great square, even at this day, is 
 very slightly elevated above the present level of the lake 
 to the west, and so spongy that we nearly buried our 
 
144 TEZCOCO. 
 
 horses in attempting to cross it. The ground is firm, 
 however, at the base of the trees, which are planted very 
 close ; many of them are of great size — fifteen or sixteen 
 yards in circumference. They are all of the noble spe- 
 cies of cypress mentioned in a former letter, as the CU" 
 pressus disticha. A raised causeway running from the 
 northeast angle, evidently connected this island garden 
 with the main land. 
 
 There exists no reason why this should not have been 
 one of the numerous gardens of Montezuma ; but, in all 
 probability, the hands which planted those aged trees 
 belonged to men of an age greatly anterior to that mon- 
 arch : qtiien sahe ? — who knows ? I have seen few rem- 
 nants of antiquity in the valley of Mexico which inter- 
 ested me more than this solitary grove. 
 
 Before we quit the shore of Lake Tezcuco, I may 
 mention a circumstance which has struck me greatly, as 
 I have every reason to credit the source of my informa- 
 tion. 
 
 I have made you attentive to the gradual change 
 which has been operated on the surface of the valley of 
 Mexico, from the retirement of its waters within nar- 
 rower bounds. At what time, or under what circum- 
 stances, those waters first overflowed the country, it was 
 to be expected that even tradition would be silent, when 
 it is recollected that the people through whose medium 
 the few traditions we possess were transmitted to our 
 knowledge, had only occupied the valley for a few brief 
 generations. But that there was a time, however re- 
 mote, at which the waters, if they existed at all, occu- 
 pied a much lower level than even at the present day, 
 at the same time that the continent was in the occupa- 
 tion of people considerably advanced in the rude arts 
 of semi-civilization, would seem to be an incontrovertible 
 fact. 
 
 Some time before our visit, a number of workmen 
 were employed on the neighbouring estate of Chapingo, 
 to excavate a canal over that part of the plain, from which 
 the waters have gradually retired during the last three 
 centuries. At four feet below the surface, they reached 
 
TEZCUCO. 145 
 
 an ancient causeway, of the existence of which there 
 was of course not the most remote suspicion. The cedar 
 piles, by which the sides were supported, were still sound 
 at heart. Three feet below the edge of this ancient 
 work, in what may have been the very ditch, they struck 
 upon the entire skeleton of a mastodon, imbedded in 
 the blue clay. Man}^ of the most valuable bones were 
 lost by the careless manner in which they were extri- 
 cated ; others were ground to powder on their convey- 
 ance to the capital, but sufficient remained to prove that 
 the animal had been of great size. My informant meas- 
 ured the diameter of the tusk, and found it to be eighteen 
 inches. 
 
 The number of the remains of this huge animal found 
 on the table land of Mexico, and in the valley itself, is 
 astonishing. Indeed, wherever extensive excavations 
 have been made of late years, they have been amost al- 
 ways met with. 
 
 In digging the foundations of the present great church 
 at Guadaloupe, many were brought to the surface. Mr. 
 W. of the Hacienda of San Nicholas, four leagues to the 
 south, in forming an excavation for an engine house, 
 found others. A friend of mine in the capital received, 
 while we were there, portions of a skeleton from Guada- 
 laxara; and I was informed, that in a neighbouring state, 
 there exists a barranca, which, from the quantity of these 
 colossal remains which are there found, the Indians have 
 named the Barranca de los Gigantes. 
 
 Though I should be very glad to take shelter under 
 the convenient Quiensabe? — the use of which I have 
 suggested to you — I could not avoid, at the time I was in 
 Mexico, putting many isolated facts together, and feeling 
 inclined to believe that this country had not only been in- 
 habited in extremely remote times, when the valley bore 
 a different aspect from that which it now exhibits, or 
 which tradition gives it, but that the extinct race of enor- 
 mous animals, whose remains would seem, in the instance 
 I have cited, to be coeval w^th the undated works of man, 
 may have been subjected to his will, and made instrumen- 
 
 N 
 
146 SAN JUAN TEOTIHUACAN. 
 
 tal by the application of their gigantic force, to the trans- 
 port of those vast masses of sculptured and chiselled 
 rock, which we marvel to see lying in positions so far re- 
 moved from their natural site. 
 
 The existence of these ancient paved causeways also, 
 not only from their solid construction over the flat and 
 low plains of the valley, but as they may be traced run- 
 ning for miles over the dry table land and the mountains, 
 appears to me to lend plausibility to the supposition ; as 
 one might inquire — to what end the labour of such 
 works, in a country w^here beasts of burden were un- 
 known ? 
 
 But I leave this subject to wiser heads and bolder the- 
 orists. Had the mammoth of Chapingo been discov- 
 ered with a ring in his nose, or a bit in his mouth ; a 
 yoke on his head, or a crupper under his tail, the ques- 
 tion would have been set at rest. As it is, there is plenty 
 of room for conjecture and dispute.* 
 
 On leaving Tczcuco, in the course of the morning, we 
 took the road conducting to the northeast. 
 
 An advance of five leagues over dusty roads, and 
 throuo;h picturesque villages, whose cottages were almost 
 hidden from view by the close hedge of the organ cac- 
 tus, brought us to a slope of a hill commanding a view 
 of the valley of San Juan Teotihuacan. 
 
 The two huge pyramidal masses rising in the centre 
 of the plain, anciently called Micoatl, or the Path of the 
 Dead, immediately arrest the attention. They lie two 
 miles east of the town, which, imbosomed in shady 
 groves, and irrigated throughout by plenteous streams of 
 clear water, seemed to us a very paradise, after our shel- 
 erless ride in the hot sun. 
 
 My companions betaking themselves to a state of tor- 
 
 * The remains of five distinct species of mastodon have been deter- 
 mined ; and of these, four have been found on the continent of Amer* 
 ii^a, spread over a surface, extending from the districts south of the St. 
 Lawrence, to Lake Titicaca^ 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 147 
 
 pidity, as usual in the afternoon, I began my survey in 
 solitude. Close to the town, there are a number of heaps 
 of rubbish, evidently ancient ; and I found them, upon 
 examination, to be chiefly composed of antique pottery, 
 fragments of obsidian knives, and arrow heads ; and the 
 same description applies to a great portion of the surface 
 of the plain between the town and the pyramids, which 
 lie in close proximity to the road leading to Otumba. 
 
 As usual in this portion of the table land, the breath- 
 less heat of the morning had been succeeded in the after- 
 noon by partial whirlwinds ; and many moving pillars of 
 dust, some of more than a hundred feet in height, were 
 travelling over the country in every direction. One 
 passed close to me, and 1 was surprised by the rapidity 
 of the spiral movement, and the violence of the rushing 
 sound accompanying it. 
 
 On nearing the vicinity of the pyramids, a mule path, 
 which leaves the smaller of the two more to the north- 
 ward, leads you in ten minutes' walk to the base of the 
 House of the Sun.* 
 
 The distance between the two may be, perhaps, some- 
 thing short of half a mile. 
 
 Time — and who shall determine how many revolu- 
 tions of the sun ? — the alternate heat and rain of tropical 
 summer and winter, the breath of the whirlwind, and the 
 feet and handsof innumerable generations, have conspired 
 to diminish the size of the huge mass of earth and stone, 
 and to destroy the symmetry of its form. The angles have 
 long ago lost their sharpness ; and the different platforms 
 or terraces much of their breadth ; still, three of the four 
 stories of which the great pyramid consisted are per- 
 fectly distinguishable, even at the distance of many miles. 
 In the smaller, they are more difficult to recognise. 
 
 * The dimensions ordinarily given of the pyramids of San Juan 
 Teotihuacan are the following. Tonatiuh Ytzagual — the House of the 
 Sun : base line, 682 feet ; perpendicular height, 180 feet. Mitzli 
 ytzagual — the House of the Moon : height, 144 feet ; base, — . 
 
148 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 I have some suspicion that the real base lies below the 
 level of the present soil, concealed by the wrecks cast 
 down upon it, and by the gradual elevation of the plateau 
 on which it stands. Almost the entire coating of lime, 
 which, doubtless, cased the slopes as well as the terraces, 
 has crumbled and disappeared, and in ascending, you 
 climb over a rough and uneven surface, composed of po- 
 rous scoria and amygdaloid, mixed with clay — ^jagged 
 with spiny tufts and nopal trees, and strewed with frag- 
 ments of pottery and obsidian. 
 
 The terraces, in many parts, still retain their exterior 
 covering of salmon-coloured stucco. 
 
 Unlike the sharply pointed pyramids of Egypt,* these 
 erections, in common with most of the teocallis of Mex- 
 ico, were constructed in distinct stories, and terminated 
 by a platform, upon which, probably, a small structure 
 was erected. 
 
 On the summit of the House of the Moon, the ruins of 
 such a building are to be seen ; but all vestige, if such 
 there were, has long ago disappeared from the platform 
 cf the larger pyramid. 
 
 In awaiting the arrival of my companions I had abun- 
 dant time to take a minute survey of the remarkable 
 scene around me. 
 
 The House of the Moon appeared, as I have already 
 stated, about half a mile to the north, with two tumuli 
 disposed at the two southern angles, and two intermedi- 
 ate ones on the southern base. A raised platform, or 
 apron, forming a parallelogram of considerable size, ex- 
 tended in advance ; with three small pyramids symmet- 
 rically ranged on one side, and seven or eight on the 
 other. From the step at the termination of this apron, a 
 broad, well-marked road, or vista, proceeded directly to 
 the south, passing before the House of the Sun, which, like 
 the lesser erection, squares exactly with the cardinal 
 points, but stands rather more to the eastward. 
 
 * According to Pocock, one Egyptian pyramids that of Sakhara, was 
 precisely of this plan and construction. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 149 
 
 Innumerable groups or *' systems" of small pyramid- 
 ical tumuli are disposed, at a greater or less distance, on 
 either side of this great road, which may be distinguished 
 bearing away for miles across the broad plain, towards 
 the mountains in the direction of the remarkable hill of 
 Tezcozingo. Is not this properly the Micoatl, or Path 
 of the Dead? 
 
 Look where you will on the great level at your feet, 
 you see innumerable sliapeless heaps and swells which 
 mark the accumulation of artificial rubbish. Who shall 
 say but this wide field aflfords a grave to millions ? 
 
 To the eastward, at the distance of some miles, rises 
 the inconsiderable ridge which divides the valley of San 
 Juan Teotihuacan from the plains of Otumba; and west- 
 ward, the eye rests upon the pretty groves and churches 
 of the town, and the neighbouring villages, backed by 
 the expanding vista, where the valley opens upon the 
 blue waters of Lake Tezcuco, and the main valley of 
 Mexico, with the double range of noble mountains in the 
 background. A glorious view, truly, both for extent, col- 
 ouring, and interest 1 
 
 In a locality like this, the features of which I have been 
 attempting to describe ; surrounded by monuments whose 
 history has eluded the most patient researches hitherto, 
 the mind is naturally disposed to speculation. It matters 
 Httle that the origin of the objects around you is hidden 
 in the impenetrable mist of past ages ; that their design 
 and appropriation has alternately occupied and bafl^ed 
 the wits of far wiser than yourself; that the most labo- 
 rious collation of evidence has only brought to light iso- 
 lated and uncertain items of intelligence with respect to 
 them — speculate you must. 
 
 You need not be reminded that our range of know- 
 ledge as Europeans, with regard to the history of this 
 vast continent, and this portion of it in particular, only 
 extends over a space of a little more than three centu- 
 ries. From this period, tracing time towards its begin- 
 ning, the vague chronicles of the aborigines at the date 
 
 N 2 
 
150 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 of the conquest, only carry you backward to an epoch, 
 a hundred and lilty years, or thereabout, anterior to that 
 ov(>.nt ; or to the loundation ol'tlic Mexican empire. 
 
 The wealt and uncertain glinnner of their traditional 
 history, respecting the period of the Aztec emigration, 
 and that oi" tlie various nations whom they succeeded, if 
 followed till it vanishes in utter darkness, liardly points 
 back to times more remote than tiie middle of the sev- 
 enth century, an age of comparatively modern history in 
 the Old World. At that C[)och, it is stated that the Tol- 
 tecs, a powerful nation, emigrating from their original 
 country somewhere to the northeast, made an irruption 
 upon An;d»uae, or the great table land and valley of Mex- 
 ico. Their pilgrimage southward seems to have been 
 slow, and to liave lasted an entire century ; and several 
 sites are indieat(3d as places of temporary sojourn betbre 
 they linally settled, but their principal seat of govern- 
 ment, which was monarchical, was at Tula, a few leagues 
 to the north of the valley of Mexico. 
 
 Th(^.y were, by the testimony of all succeeding tribes, 
 the most civilized of all the nations which held posses- 
 sion of Anahuac ; living in cities, submitting to a regular 
 form of government, and j)ossessing a knowledge of hi- 
 eroglyphic writing, the casting of metals, and the cultiva- 
 tion of maize and cotton ; evincing great skill in the me- 
 chanic arts, and chielly remarkable for the ingenious as- 
 tronomical arrangement of time in use among them.* 
 They held their sway over tlie central portion of the 
 country for four centuries, when they would appear to 
 have l)cen cut olT by a famine and pestilence, and most 
 of their cities deserted. Part of the renurvUit emigrated 
 tothe st)uthward, towards the isthmus; a few remained 
 in the sacred city of Cholula. 
 
 A hundred years' desolation followed, when, about 
 1 170, a second people, emigrating also from the north, 
 sat down upon tlie deserted territory. They were also 
 subject to a monarchical govermnent ; but were far less 
 civilized than their pretlecessors : and in advance in the 
 
 * Sec page 130, cScc. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 151 
 
 arts of life, as well as their simple worship of the sun, 
 they seem to be assimilated to tlie Natchez of Louisiana. 
 
 Other tribes, the principal of which was the Acolhu- 
 ans, followed. Under all tlieir distinct appellations, yet 
 speaking at most dialects of the same language, it seems 
 probuble that all these tribes were oil'sets from that 
 teeming hive of human beings of which the unknown seat 
 lay somewhere to tlie northward, in the unexplored coun- 
 try to the north and east of California, between the west- 
 ern slope of the Rocky Mountains, and the great Pacific 
 Occcin.* 
 
 The Alcolhuan monarchy lasted for several centuries, 
 till the rise of the Mexicans or Aztecs, the last of seven 
 triljesofthe Nahuatlacs, tlie people who had emigrated 
 to Anahuac before the Acolhuans, put an end to it. 
 
 It appears that these seven tribes had departed from 
 their northern home in company ; but that after three 
 considerable halts, disagreement produced a separation 
 of the Aztec tribe from their brethren. The six pro- 
 ceeded to the south, and formed their settlements ; while 
 many years ehqxsed before the sc^venth, oracle led, came 
 to a final pause in the valley of Mexico, where they 
 founded their principal city on the site of the present 
 capital, amid tlie waters of the lake Tezcuco. Like most 
 of the nations M^hose entry into the country I have thus 
 briefly noticed, the Mexicans adopted as much of the 
 agriculture, arts, and demi-civilization of the Toltecs as 
 was extant, and conformed to their astronomical division 
 of time, mythology, and probably to many of their reli- 
 gious observances and customs. 
 
 During their period of a hundred years' wandering in 
 Anahuac, before making their final settlement, the Mex- 
 icans are stated to have succumbed to the power of the 
 
 A.D. 
 
 * Emigration of tho Toltecs into Anahuac - - - 607 
 Termination of the Toltec monarchy - - - - 1051 
 Emigration of the Chech imecas - - - - -1170 
 Emigration of the six trii.es of the Nahuatlacs - - 1J78 
 Then followed the Alcaihuans, with whom the Chechime- 
 cas coalesce. 'I'he Mexicans, the seventh tribe of the 
 Nahuatlacs, huild Tenochtitlan in - - - - 1325 
 
 Sec Huroboldt's Researches. 
 
152 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 Acolhuans. They finally adopted the monarchical form 
 of government, and gaining the ascendency, maintained 
 it till the arrival of the Spaniards. At that time remnants 
 of the most of the tribes here mentioned were to be found, 
 here or there in the country, mingled with small primi- 
 tive tribes of quite a distinct race, some of which are sup- 
 posed, with apparent reason, to have inhabited New Spain 
 before the arrival of the Toltecs. 
 
 And now, who built the pyramids of San Juan Teoti- 
 huacan ? who laid the foundations of the colossal teo- 
 calli of Cholula ? Some say the Toltecs — others the 
 Olmecas or the Xicalancas, people of an equally remote 
 origin ; and all agree in attributing them to the earliest 
 times of which traditional record exists. 
 
 There is no saying by what people, or at what epoch 
 they were raised, nor to what forms of idol worship they 
 were in succession consecrated ; but from the tangled 
 thread of tradition, sufficient may be unravelled to show 
 the original desiojn of these monuments, and what were 
 the facts of which they were to be the remembrance to 
 future ages : and tradition, while perhaps it does the wise 
 and skilful Toltecs but justice, when it ascribes to them 
 the elaborate sculpture strewed over the face of New 
 Spain and Central America, might do them no wrong in 
 attributing these vast erections, and many of the great 
 works extant on the table land, to a far higher antiquity. 
 At what epoch of the world's history the vast western 
 continent became peopled by the human race, is a ques- 
 tion which has given rise to many discussions and differ- 
 ent hypotheses. 
 
 The idea of its early occupation would appear to be 
 perfectly consistent both witli analogous reasoning, and 
 with the testimony to be gathered from the traditions 
 and customs, civil and religious, of the aborigines them- 
 selves, throughout the continent. Is it not to be supposed, 
 that, however brought about, the same Almighty hand 
 which scattered the congregated descendants of Noah 
 abroad upon the face of all the earth, would fulfil its de- 
 sign with regard to this portion of the habitable surface 
 of the globe also, and that speedily ? And if the coun- 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 153 
 
 tries of the north, and the south, and the west, then re- 
 ceived these allotted portions of the human family — and 
 the vast face of Asia became straightway peopled by the 
 scattered multitude — why should it be doubted, that the 
 varied countries of the extreme east also lay open to the 
 millions emigrating from the common cradle of the 
 second race of man on the plains of Shinar? It has 
 been strongly contested, that the deeper we pry into the 
 history and habits, languages and institutions of the Amer- 
 ican people, the less reason we discover to believe that 
 they are descended from any particular people of the Old 
 World : at the same time that a search into their early 
 traditions and religious superstitions appears to prove, 
 with undoubted certainty, that a connection once existed 
 between them and the mass of mankind, and that, when- 
 ever and however isolated, there can be no doubt, from 
 the great analogies existing between them, of their hav- 
 ing a common origin and early history. 
 
 The various hypotheses started again and again, at- 
 tempting to trace the origin of the American aborigines 
 to any particular people of the old continent,* whether 
 Jew or gentile, have all hitherto failed in carrying con- 
 viction to the minds of the world in general ; and it must 
 be admitted that many of the arguments made use of to 
 bolster up these theories, have only proved the ignorance 
 of their advocates to the true sources of the institutions 
 of pagan idolatry throughout the globe. Wherever you 
 direct your attention, to the barbarous tribes of the north 
 and south, or the demi-civilized people of the central por- 
 tions of the continent on both sides of the isthmus, you 
 
 * How far those may be in the right who would prove that the king- 
 doms of Mexico and Peru were founded by the troops sent by the Khan 
 of Tartary, towards the close of the thirteenth century, to subdue Japan ; 
 that Mango Capac, the first inca of Peru, was the son of Kublai, the 
 grandson of the Mogul conqueror, Genghis Khan ; and that the ances- 
 tor of Montezuma was a Mogul grandee in his train, I am in nowise 
 able to determine : but it is certainly a most singular circumstance, that 
 suddenly, about that epoch, these two great powers sprung up simulta- 
 neously in diiferent parts of the continent, and grew and increased, and 
 were in the end annihilated by the Spaniards, without having had any 
 connection, or being known of one another, as far as can be ascer- 
 tained. 
 
154 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 find, under all modifications of tradition, proofs of their 
 being of a connmon stock with other nations of the globe, 
 and of a long and complete separation — intermingled with 
 great and striking analogies in their dogmas, customs, and 
 mythological systems ; which it is now admitted that all 
 the great nations of antiquity — Egypt, Chaldea, China, 
 and Hindoostan — all drew from one common source, and 
 probably learned in one common school, between the 
 epoch of the deluge and the time of the dispersion. Be- 
 yond these it has been asserted by many, that no affinity 
 whatsoever with any particular people can be traced, 
 except such as might be supposed to be the natural fruit 
 of the human mind, its passions, and its necessities in its 
 fallen state, devoid of the light of revelation, however 
 isolated, and wherever placed. 
 
 The most benighted of the American tribes have re- 
 tained the impression of the existence of a Supreme 
 Being, who was the " Master of Life," and the absolute 
 governor of the world. This is indisputable, at the same 
 time that among most of them, the principal adoration 
 or worship was reserved for a host of minor deities and 
 idols. 
 
 All concurred in asserting the existence of an evil spirit 
 or principle, whose works and suggestions were calcu- 
 lated to injure them, although the depravity and blind- 
 ness of their nature led them to seek to propitiate him. 
 
 All seem to have forebodings of the immortality of the 
 soul, admitting or implying that after the death of the 
 body, their thinking part would still exist. They have 
 generally professed belief in future rewards and punish- 
 ments ; each people picturing their heaven and hell, ac- 
 cording to the notions of felicity and misery imbibed from 
 their early education and habits. 
 
 But this is not all. Among whatever division of these 
 aborigines tradition is found to exist, you discover 
 WTapped up in allegory, or distorted by perverted fancy, 
 distinct testimony of the origin of all from common 
 parents ; the idea that mankind had forfeited their orig- 
 inal state of happiness ; coupled with faint glimpses of 
 the coming of One, who should work a regeneration, aiid 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 155 
 
 should restore the golden age ; and a distinct record of 
 the destruction of the world by water, and of the pres- 
 ervation of one family, from whom, of course, each, in 
 his own fashion, derived its own progeniture. In all, in 
 a greater or less degree, you detect that craving after 
 something beyond human reason, which may serve as a 
 guide ; a craving which, at the same time that it is the 
 most fertile source of credulous and superstitious belief, is 
 sufficient to prove the absolute necessity of a Divine rev- 
 elation, and the impracticability of man's dwelling in con- 
 tent upon earth without one. Further, by the traditional 
 histories of the people inhabiting Central America, you 
 are carried forward, in a most extraordinary manner, to 
 the events attending the building of the tower of Babel, 
 and the subsequent scattering of the huinan race.* 
 
 But here, it has generally been considered, that all 
 consistent analogies cease ; and it would certainly appear 
 that as, after the deluge, the human race lived together 
 for five hundred years as one great family, subject»to the 
 same practices and superstitions, cultivating the same 
 arts and sciences, and having one common tradition and 
 history, so, after the dispersion, they spread in different 
 bands over the face of the globe, carrying with them 
 the knowledge, science, and so forth, which, till then, had 
 been common to all, and which was certainly the base 
 upon which the founders of nations in the Old World 
 afterward built their several systems, civil and religious. 
 
 It is perfectly comprehensible for the rest, that the 
 principal features in the traditions of the Americans, 
 whether barbarous or demi-civilized, should be continual 
 
 * " The people of Mechoachan preserved a tradition, that Coxcox, 
 whom they call Tespi, embarked in a spacious vessel with his wife, 
 children, various animals and vegetables, whose use was important to 
 man. After the waters began to decrease, Tezpi sent out from his ark 
 a vulture, to ascertain the state of the waters, but this bird, which feeds 
 on carrion, did not return to him, in consequence of the number of dead 
 bodies which were to be found everywhere strewed on the earth. Tezpi 
 sent out other birds, of which the humming bird alone returned, holding 
 in its beak a branch covered with leaves. Tezpi seeing that the earth 
 had begun to produce vegetation, left his vessel near the mountain of 
 Colhuacan." — Humboldt, Res. ii. 65. 
 
156 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 emigration and removal from place to place ; and also 
 that the dim record of the great events 1 have alluded to 
 should be intertwined vt^ith others, referring to events of 
 a far more recent date ; that the personages and char- 
 acters of the earliest time should be strangely mino^led 
 with the history of such as may have existed ages after ; 
 and, that the seat which a people actually occupied, 
 should be in their records, the very theatre upon which 
 the great events pictured by their traditions should have 
 taken place. 
 
 The origin of the huge pyramidal monuments of Asia, 
 in the traditional record remaining among the nations of 
 antiquity, of the building of the tower of Babel, which 
 was itself but a symbolic representation of the mountain 
 on w^hich the ark rested after the deluge, has been fully 
 established by the pens of many able writers, and the 
 resemblance between the latter, as described by the 
 ancients, and the teocallis or temples of the ancient peo- 
 ple of Anahuac, is too glaring to be overlooked or denied, 
 by the most skeptically disposed. 
 
 There can be no reasonable doubt as to the strict 
 analogy; and if there were, the traditions attached to 
 the great pyramid of Cholula, among the rest, would 
 remove it. 
 
 It is too interesting not to merit transcription. 
 
 " Before the great inundation," runs the tradition, 
 " which took place four thousand eight hundred years 
 after the creation of the world, the country of Anahuac 
 was inhabited by giants ; all of whom either perished in 
 the inundation, or were transformed into fishes, save 
 seven, who fled into caverns. When the waters sub- 
 sided, one of the giants, called Xelhua, surnamed the 
 Architect, went to Cholula, where, as a memorial of the 
 mountain TIaloc, which had served for an asylum to 
 himself and his six brethren, he built an artificial hill in 
 form of a pyramid. He ordered bricks to be made in 
 the province of Tlanamalco, at the foot of the Sierra of 
 Cocotl : and to convey them to Cholula, he placed a file 
 of men who passed them from hand to hand. The gods 
 beheld with wrath this edifice, the top of which was to 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 15? 
 
 reach the clouds. Irritated at the daring attempt of 
 Xelhua, they hurled fire on the pyramid. Numbers of 
 the workmen perished ; the work was discontinued, and 
 the monument was dedicated to Quetzalcoatl, the god 
 of the air."* 
 
 I have said, that up to the present time none of the ar- 
 guments employed to prove the descent of the American 
 aborigines, or of any part and distinct portion of them, 
 from particular people of the ancient world, have seem- 
 ingly gained universal belief. Nevertheless, it must be 
 admitted, that the light thrown by late researches, and 
 the collection of evidence from various quarters in fa- 
 vour of the plausibility of the theory that the nations of 
 Central America at least are of Hebrew origin, is of a 
 character calculated to make the unprejudiced pause, in 
 hazarding too positive an opinion. As to myself, all I 
 can say is, that when I knew less of the subject, I felt in- 
 clined to throw more ridicule upon the idea than I dare 
 do now ; at the same time that I would not deem the 
 question decided, ,despitelhe opinion of many laborious 
 and enthusiasticvvriters, from the time of Las Casas, Sa- 
 hagun, Boturini, and their cotemporaries and successors, 
 down to those of Ethan Smith, Mrs. Simon, and Lord 
 Kingsbury, till it be clearly demonstrated that those 
 most remarkable analogies which arc ably set forth in 
 these works, are not traceable to the times which imme- 
 diately succeeded the deluge, and preceded the disper- 
 sion. 
 
 Well may the opinion of the world hang in suspense 
 with regard to every doubtful question in which any part 
 of the chosen people of God is implicated. The sepa- 
 rate existence of the Jews as a distinct people, even to 
 this day, is a miracle which none can question ; and 
 wherever the descendants of the lost Ten Tribes are 
 banished — to the east, or to the west — we may firmly 
 believe, that, being partakers of the same striking prom- 
 ises with the Jews, the same God who has promised to 
 
 » See Humboldt's Res., i., 97. 
 o 
 
158 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 recall to his fold the " dispersed of Judah," will not for- 
 get " the outcasts of Israel." 
 
 I feel tempted still to remark, that if the exact time in 
 which the American continent became peopled is a mat- 
 ter of uncertainty, the manner \s not the less so, and as 
 long as we confine our speculations to the narrow limits 
 "which the generality of theorists have adopted in their 
 hypotheses, the result must be unsatisfactory. 
 
 That a vast continent, extending from the icy pole to 
 the 56th degree of south latitude, should have been peo- 
 pled either by the chance introduction of individuals by 
 rafts or canoes, from the shores of Asia, or some of the 
 islands at present found in the intermediate ocean — or 
 even by the passage of a strait almost within the limits 
 of the frigid zone, would appear preposterous, and im- 
 probable in the highest degree ; and these ideas become 
 ludicrous when applied to the introduction of animals of 
 every description ; many of which are incapacitated, from 
 their structure, for existing in such high latitude. 
 
 The Mosaic account of the deluge, and of the manner 
 in which it pleased God to preserve the race of men and 
 of animals, puerile and incredible as the latter may ap- 
 pear to the freethinkers and neologists of the present day, 
 is, however, not the less worthy of credit by the philoso- 
 pher, as w-ell as the simple-minded Christian ; and other 
 testimony to its truth than that of the Bible, if such be 
 necessary, may be culled from the belief and traditions, 
 of both the pagan nations of the eastern hemisphere, and 
 the central nations of America. 
 
 In whatever locality it suited the designs of Providence 
 to bring together the various animals for their introduc- 
 tion into the ark, it must not be overlooked, that that part 
 of the globe on which the ark rested after the deluge, was 
 one which of all others was the most calculated to facili- 
 tate the replenishing of the surface of the earth with ani- 
 mals, to whatever chmate they were attached, or what- 
 ever were their habits. 
 
 To the north of the mountains between the Black and 
 Caspian seas, a cool and elevated plateau led to the lim- 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 159 
 
 its of the Frozen Sea, when immediately to the south the 
 hot and arid plains of Arabia and Armenia afforded an 
 easy passage to the equatorial latitudes ; and as far as the 
 Old World was concerned, it may be said, that no ani- 
 mal, in leaving the ark, had to pass through a zone incon- 
 genial to its nature. Neither is it to be assumed that this 
 evidently wise scheme of Providence was violated with 
 regard to America. 
 
 The probability is, that there once existed easy modes 
 of communication, which have since disappeared in some 
 mighty physical convulsion : and the opinion that this is 
 the case, gains additional strength, both from the config- 
 uration of this portion of the globe, and the vague but 
 certain traditions, which are entertained by many na- 
 tions, of such a second great catastrophe having taken 
 place posterior to the deluge. 
 
 The concurrent testimony of many scientific observers 
 as to the appearance of the eastern coasts of Asia, and 
 the groups of islands scattered over the Indian and Pa- 
 cific oceans, and the proofs of large bodies of land hav- 
 ing disappeared, need not be dwelt upon ; nor the almost 
 universal tradition current among those islands, of such a 
 great physical convulsion, or disruption of the continents 
 perfectly distinct from those of the great deluge. He 
 who is disposed to glean, may glean from the history of 
 the nations of the Old World, testimony to the same pur- 
 port. The Egyptians, the Chinese, the Hindoos, have 
 all similar records, concerning this second great revolu- 
 tion, which seemingly produced these great changes on 
 the surface of the globe, and in the disposition of its 
 parts. 
 
 It may be further mentioned, that the signification of 
 the name of the patriarch Peleg (that is division ;* "for 
 in his days the earth was divided'') corroborates this idea 
 in a singular manner. The word rendered " division," 
 signifyino^, according to good authorities, a physical, and 
 not a political division or separation ; for proofs of which 
 you may be referred to the ingenious work of Dr. M'Cul- 
 
 * See Genesis x. 25. 
 
160 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 loh* — where it is shown that both the Chinese and t!i@ 
 Hindoo records chronicle a certain terrible geological 
 convulsion as occurring in the years 2357 and 245(3 be- 
 fore Christ, both of which dates fall within the life of Pe- 
 leg. Moreover, the signification of the name of the 
 patriarch Salah, who was his cotemporary, again fa- 
 vours the same hypothesis, and it must be conceded that 
 many favourite and received theories rest on far worse 
 grounds. 
 
 According to this, the series of convulsions which 
 broke up the surface of the globe will have occurred 
 eight or nine hundred years after the dispersion of man- 
 kind, and consequently after that every part of the surface 
 may have become occupied by both men and animals. 
 
 This is not the place for repeating what others have 
 established with regard to the analogies of the Mexican 
 mythology with that of the Old World. The subject is 
 a tempting one, but I have already stepped over my proper 
 bounds, and in referring you to Humboldt, Faber, Bryant, 
 and other well-known writers, 1 crave your pardon for 
 my digression, and resume my narrative. 
 
 On repairing to the House of the Moon, I found my 
 two companions busily employed in verifymg the truth 
 of the information we had received in Mexico, of an en- 
 trance having been discovered. The opening in ques- 
 tion lies in the southern face of the pyramid, at two 
 thirds of the elevation, and possibly about the level of 
 the third terrace from the bottom. It is difficult to deter- 
 mine exactly, for the whole form of this the lesser pyramid 
 is much more indistinct than that of its rival. A number 
 of Indian women and children beset the entrance, which 
 was little larger than that into a fox earth, and after un- 
 dergoing a partial stripping, I proceeded to share in the 
 glory or danger of the enterprise, whichever it might be. 
 As it happened, there was neither to be gained. I laid 
 myself flat upon my face, and ducking into the aperture, 
 squeezed myself blindly forward with my candle, through 
 
 * Researches Philosophical and Antiquarian, concerning the Aborigi- 
 nal History of America, by J. H, M'Culloh, M.D. Baltimore, 18S9. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 161 
 
 a passage inclining downward for about ten yards, 
 "when I found myself in a more open gallery, at the ter- 
 mination of which, not many paces distant, I found De 
 Pourtales and M'Euen at the brink of two wells, which, 
 considering the height at which we entered, might per- 
 haps be in the centre of the pyramid. The latter 
 valorously allowed himself to be lowered by a rope 
 into the aperture on the left hand, to the depth of per- 
 haps fifteen feet, without making any further discovery. 
 The other pit was still shallower, and no signs of any 
 other passage could be discovered. Both the walls of 
 the passage and the sides of the wells, as far as we could 
 see, were constructed of unburnt bricks ; and a plentiful 
 mouthful of dust was our only recompense. Other and 
 more important cavities there may be, if they could be 
 hit upon. No entrance has been discovered in the 
 House of the Sun. 
 
 Of the Indians, to whom our adventure was a subject 
 of both curiosity and awe, we purchased a hundred or 
 more of those singular terra cotta heads, which, inter- 
 mingled with fragments of obsidian knives and arrows, 
 are discovered in such inexhaustible quantity in many 
 parts of Mexico, but principally in the vicinity of these 
 pyramids, and on the neighbouring plain of Otumba. I 
 am not aware of any light having been thrown as yet, 
 either upon the uses to which these models of the human 
 countenance were put by the people with whose cus- 
 toms and ceremonies their fabric and use in such quan- 
 tities were seemingly connected. By far the greater 
 majority of those which came under my observation 
 bore an extraordinary resemblance to one another, both 
 in the strongly marked features of the face, the facial 
 angle, and the height and formation of the forehead. 
 
 I should explain, that the hinder part of the head is 
 never given in its full proportions, so that the phrenolo- 
 gist is quhe at fault. The physiognomy has nothing in 
 common with the present tribes of Indian descended 
 from the Aztec race. Several of the heads were crowned 
 with a broad and ornamented tiara or head dress ; but 
 in general there was no ornament about them ; and with 
 
 o2 
 
1C2 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 the oxccplion of a few, which IkuI evidently served as 
 ornntnciils upon soiiu; earlhoii v(;ss(!ls, all seemed to have 
 hvA)n louiid ill tlie sinter in which they were modelled. 
 The composition is a (ine elay, well tempered and slightly 
 bak(!(l. 
 
 Fr;><^m(uits of pottery of divers colours, and a small 
 baked mass oC clay with two ptjrforations side by side, 
 which, what(!ver were its oiif»inal uses, would not make 
 a bad candU'stick ("or those who had no better, are also 
 pickcul up in i^n^at numb(>i-s ; as well as an inconceivable 
 quantily oiriiii!,in(M its of obsidian or rather jade arrows 
 and ({uadian^^ular knive blades, Irom one to two inches 
 lon}^. I was <i;reatly struck in ol)serving the uniformity 
 ol the an«j;les presented by the majority ol the latter, 
 and several circumslances combine to make ine l)elieve 
 that the jxioplc; who fabrif-ated them had some nu^thod 
 of workin*), iUcui into shape, l)y taking advantage o(" the 
 conchoidal IVactme. 
 
 In the vicinity of l{(>al dcd Monte there are ancient 
 obsidian mines which must have been worked in very 
 anci(;nt times. The mine/al is disposed in thin beds ab 
 ternalely, with fine sand, and was reached by means of 
 numberh^ss small shafts or [)ils. It is said to lie there iti 
 inexhaustible (juantitics, and fi-om thence, doubtless, the 
 Tolt(u-s <lrew much ol tlu^ inattM'ial lor their w(;apons,, 
 and for tlui beautiful masks with wliich they covered 
 the faces of their illustrious (h^ad. Jiut there is no lack 
 of it elsewhere in New Spain, both above and under 
 ground. 
 
 |{y some unaccountable Ibrgetfuhiess we left the te- 
 ocallis without visiting the so-called " Fainting Stone," 
 which li(is in the hollow betwecui two of the smaller pyr- 
 amids at the loot of the I louse of the Moon. It is a 
 la?g(^ s(|uare mass w ith a. sculptuiiul lace, and the [)oj)ular 
 belief with n^gard to it is, that any one sitting;- down on it 
 faints di^ad away. We heard one aneculote, singidarly 
 confirmatory ol" this incredible tradition, from some of our 
 B'^uropean ac(|uaintanees in Mexico, and therefore re- 
 gretted the more having been so neglectful, as to have 
 omitted to set the matter at rest by our own expcrienceo, 
 
ZUMPANGO. 1G3 
 
 The following morning we addressed ourselves early 
 to the duty of escorting our ponderous veliiclc to the 
 north towards Lake Zuinpango, over a line of country 
 on which we wore led to l)elieve that the banditti were 
 as plentiful as the nopal hushes. But here again our 
 perverse good fortune brought us through without adven- 
 ture, or any chance of trying our mettle ; and to tell the 
 truth, had it not been for the coach and its ten mules, 
 a more banditti-kx^king party than our own could hardly 
 have been met with. 
 
 The range of secondary hills over which our track lay 
 on our early morning ride to Tecama, an old halting 
 place on the Ileal del Monte road, gave us frequent 
 glimpses of the lakes in ihe plain below, and particularly 
 of that of San Cristobal, l)etwecn which and the marshes 
 of Lake Tezcuco, the old Spaniards have left one of the 
 noblest monuments of tiicir skill and niagnificence, in the 
 construction of the celebrated dike and causeway, by 
 which they prevented the surplus waters of the higher 
 from entering the lower. Its length is fifteen hundred 
 veras, its breadth ten, and height from three to four ; the 
 whole structure being a mass of solid masonry. 
 
 A short pause at Tecama was followed by our descent 
 into the great level, which, once doubtless covered with 
 waters, extends frum the present shores of the lake, round 
 the base of a group of volcanic hills, towards tlu^ foot 
 of the great chain, which hems in the valley of Mexico 
 to the north and northeast. 
 
 Zumpango is about five leagues distant from Tecamaj 
 or eight from San Juan Teotihuacan. 
 
 It may give you some idea of the utter ignorance 
 which rt^igns in the ca[)ital among the better classes, both 
 natives and Europeans, as to the topograj)hy of the coun- 
 try, when 1 assure you that we had set out on this excur- 
 sion, as upon a journey of discovery ; without being able 
 to gather the slightest information of a positive character 
 with regard to the practicability of what we proposed 
 
164 HUEHUETOCA. 
 
 achieving, though we sought it for a week in advance on 
 every hand. The possibiHty of rounding the southern 
 end of Lake Tezcuco to the town of that nanne, was 
 again and again positively denied. Distances were 
 tripled ; and as to the scheme of proceeding directly with 
 our train from San Juan Teotihuacan to Huehuetoca, 
 that was laughed at as quite chimerical. We found not 
 only no great difficulty, as you read, but discovered that 
 all the information we had received with regard to dis- 
 tances had been greatly overrated. 
 
 The town of Zumpango, where we made our main 
 halt, presents nothing worthy of note so far as we could 
 discover. The northern shore of the lake of that name, 
 which we skirted in the course of the afternoon, is, how- 
 ever, very pretty. 
 
 Passing one or two picturesque villages, we gained the 
 plains beyond. Our road led us close to the walls of the 
 great Hacienda of Jalpa ; and, in fine, at an early hour 
 of the evening, to the village of Huehuetoca, whose mas- 
 sive church had long served us as our landmark in ap- 
 proaching from the eastward. 
 
 There is little either in the miserable town itself, or in 
 the surrounding country, as far as its general features are 
 considered, to allure the traveller to a halt ; or to tempt 
 me to put a tail to this long letter ; but, in the Desague 
 Real, this otherwise uninteresting corner of the valley of 
 Mexico contains one of the most gigantic monuments of 
 human design to be found in any country ; and to visit it 
 was the motive of our excursion thus far to the north- 
 ward. 
 
 You may have gathered from what I have already 
 communicated, that nature has provided no natural out- 
 let for the waters of the five lakes of the valley ; and 
 that in times of extraordinary and sudden flood, the sur- 
 plus of waters of all the more elevated lakes to the north 
 and south must be discharged into Lake Tezcuco, which 
 forms the lowest level of the valley of Mexico. 
 
 I have also remarked that both the ancient capital and 
 the present city, have been exposed from this cause to 
 
HUEHUETOCA. 165 
 
 great inundations, in spite of the gradual decrease of the 
 waters of Lake Tezcuco, from causes which I have hinted 
 at in the first page of this letter. 
 
 The attention of the Spanish viceroys being thus im- 
 peratively drawn to the subject, about the commencement 
 of the seventeenth century, a scheme was formed by a 
 Spanish engineer, Enrico Martinez, by the execution of 
 which, the surplus waters from the two upper lakes to the 
 northward — San Cristobal and Zuuipango — were to be 
 drawn off in another direction ; their basins being the 
 most liable to overflow, from the character and size of 
 their tributaries. 
 
 The comparative depression and narrowness of the 
 mountain rampart, hemming in the valley to the north- 
 ward, in the vicinity of Lake Zumpango, favoured the 
 project of constructing a tunnel by which this should be 
 affected, forming a duct through which all the waters 
 rising above a certain level should be conveyed int(j the 
 bed of the river Tula, the main branch of the Panuco, 
 whose source lay on the other side of the ridge, and 
 which you will recognise as entering the gulf at Tam- 
 pico. 
 
 This great work was commenced in 1607, and in the 
 course of its prosecution by the hand of the native In- 
 dians, hundreds are said to have perished by the caving 
 in of the earth and other casualtips. But what was that ? 
 the work was to be done, and if Indians were wanted, 
 a party of horsemen armed with the lasso was sent out 
 to the distant villages, and the poor natives were secured 
 and brought to the scene of toil like so many wild horses. 
 
 The memory of what their ancestors endured at-Hue- 
 huetoca, both at this epoch and in after times, is not for- 
 gotten by the present race. 
 
 A tunnel or subterranean gallery was at length fin- 
 ished, 20,000 feet in length : but, in 1629, the stoppage 
 of the passage by the fall of the roof, or other casualty, 
 combined with a season of unusual flood, caused such a 
 rise in the waters of Lake Tezcuco, that the whole of the 
 ancient bed, and the streets of the capital itself, with the 
 exception of the very highest levels, were covered with 
 
166 MEXICO. 
 
 water to the height of three feet, and remained submerged 
 till 1634. 
 
 Many projects were set afloat in the interval, and even 
 the propriety of abandoning the present site, and rebuild- 
 ing the melropohs on the rising ground beyond Tacuba 
 agitated ; but at length it was determined to convert the 
 tunnel through the hill of Nochistongo into an open cut. 
 This was effected, after years of labour, and infinite delay, 
 expense, and loss of Indian life ; and the completion of the 
 work dates from the year 1789. The cost of this pro- 
 digious canal, and of the various dikes raised in further- 
 ance of the same design, among which that of San Cris- 
 tobal is to be included, amounted to far above the sum 
 of six millions of dollars. 
 
 The morning after our arrival, a visit to the Desague 
 Real was our only business, and we accordingly rode 
 along its whole line, to the summit of the hill through 
 whose bowels it has been carried. 
 
 At the summit it presents an enormous excavation, cut 
 to the depth of one hundred and ninety-six feet perpen- 
 dicular, through alternate beds of clay, and loose gravel 
 and sand, with a breadth of upward of three hundred 
 feet at the top. Northward the eye loses it in the dis- 
 tance, as it runs towards the fall of the Tula: and south- 
 ward, it appears like a deep groove, stretching straight 
 across the plain, towards the northeastern angle of Lake 
 Zumpango ; beyond which you descry the Cerro de Cris- 
 tobal ; and, far in the distance, the snowy summits of 
 Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl. From one extremity to 
 the other the length of the desague exceeds 67,000 feet, 
 or upward of twelve miles. 
 
 At the time we visited it, a most insignificant stream 
 was passing to the northward ; and it appeared to us 
 probable that the quantity of rubbish brought down into 
 the cavity by the crumbling beds of gravel above, and 
 the washing of the clayey strata, might become a serious 
 impediment in course of time, if not attended to. There 
 is no doubt that this costly enterprise has so far answered 
 the purpose for which it was undertaken ; yet should an 
 extraordinary but yet possible chain of circumstances 
 
MEXICO. ' 167 
 
 conspire to raise the southern lakes to an unusual level, 
 the danger to the capital would not be lessened. 
 
 After thus spending the morning in the survey of this 
 great work, we prepared to return by the direct road to 
 Mexico, eleven leagues distant. Guautitlan is a consid- 
 erable town, with a fine church, and curious old colon- 
 naded buildings, lying in a valley at the northern side of 
 that spur of hills which connects the Cerro dc Cristobal 
 with the main eastern branch of the Sierra Madre. The 
 river of that name is properly a tributary of Lake Zum- 
 pango, though I believe its waters now pass at once into 
 the desague. It is the most powerful stream in the val- 
 ley of Mexico. 
 
 The passage of the ridge to the town of Tanepantla 
 presented nothing very worthy of note ; but, when in 
 continuing our route through the cultivated fields in its 
 vicinity, the view upon the opening plain, lake, and wide 
 panorama of mountains, with the domes of the city illu- 
 minated by the declining sun, again unfolded itself to us, 
 we were at a loss for language to express our sense of 
 its indescribable beauty. 
 
 Our amusing excursion had been but of four days^ 
 duration. 
 
 LETTER VIIL 
 
 We found, on our return to the city, after the excur- 
 sion in the environs as detailed in my last, that the good 
 humour of the inhabitants, which I have described as 
 a little frozen during Lent, was undergoing a gradual 
 thaw. 
 
 The government of the country had repented its stern 
 conduct to the votaries of Terpsichore, Euterpe, and 
 Thalia, and the long train of petty artists attached to the 
 corps d'opera. It had graciously revoked the edict of 
 banishment— had advanced a part of the money justly 
 claimed by the contract — and had agreed to favour with 
 
IQS MEXICO. 
 
 its countenance a certain number of further representii* 
 tions. Moreover, personified by a boxful of gaudily 
 dressed officials and employes, it consented to wag its 
 long ears in approbation, while Pellegrini agitated her 
 larynx in the character of Semiramis; and to clap its 
 hands at the sight of the sexagenarian Galli, tightly 
 braced up to perform the role of the lithe and active 
 scoundrel Figaro. All the world went to the opera I 
 
 And all the world went to the bullfights — and we 
 went too; and, the butchery apart, the scene presented 
 in the great amphitheatre, not far from the Alameda de 
 las Vigas, was an animating and beautiful one. 
 
 The form and arrangement of the wooden structure 
 need not be very minutely described. It contains the 
 usual gradations of covered galleries and uncovered 
 ranges of seats, to afford fitting accommodation to both 
 rich and poor. There are four great tiers of lodges 
 with subdivisions, capable of containing thirty thousand 
 people. We may have seen ten thousand collected 
 there of all degrees, from the presiding alcalde and his 
 fellows, to the half-naked giiachinango ; damas, pay- 
 sanos, poblanitas — individuals of every hue and breed, 
 for the diversity of which Mexico is pre-eminent.* The 
 brilliancy of colouring and great variety of costumes 
 visible throughout the assemblage ; and the intense blue 
 of the cloudless sky above ; the masses of light and 
 shadow resting upon the domes and broad walls of a large 
 church — which is the only object without visible from 
 the interior of the amphitheatre — produced a picture 
 of great beauty ; without even taking into account 
 
 * The population of New Spain consists of seven distinct classes, be- 
 sides people of recent Asiatic origin. 
 
 1. The Gachupin — the full-blood European, or more properly the 
 SSpaniard, whose numbers are now very inconsiderable, having dwindled 
 down since the revolution from 80,000 to probably not more than 10,000. 
 
 2. Creoles of European extraction, IjOOOjOOO." 
 
 3. Mestizzoes, the offspring of the European and Indian, 2,000,000. 
 
 4. Mulattoes, the offspring of Europeans and Negroes, 400,000. 
 6. Aboriginal Indians, numbering from three to four millions. 
 
 6. African Negroes and their descendants, 100,000. 
 
 7. Zamboes, the offspring of Negro and Indian, 2,000,000. 
 To these, about 15,000 European foreigners are to be added. 
 
MEXICO. 169 
 
 the scenes enacted upon the spacious arena at your 
 
 feet. 
 
 A very detailed account of a bullfight would be no 
 novelty to you, the ceremony having been described and 
 sung, in prose and verse, usque ad nauseam. If it is a 
 brutal and heartless exhibition in Spain, where, after all^ 
 it is attended with some risk to the parties engaged 
 from the strength and vigour of the noble animal that 
 is the object of the sport — it is so here in a tenfold de- 
 gree ; as of all bulls I ever saw, the Mexican is the 
 weakest and the most spiritless. Instead of the com- 
 pact concentration of animal strength visible in the mas- 
 sive form, nervous limbs, short neck, and majestic port 
 of a European bull— English, Spanish, or Swiss — you 
 see animals turned into the arena, with a demeanour un- 
 worthy of even a decent cow — hollow-backed, long- 
 legged, long-horned, nerveless animals, whose first im- 
 pulse is to get out of the way, and whose courage is the 
 courage of desperation. 
 
 The pomp and circumstances of the spectacle — the 
 costumes of the different orders of actors — the picadores, 
 bandarillos, and matadores, are precisely the same as are 
 seen in the mother country. 
 
 The first trumpet call from the alcalde's box gives a 
 token to the soldiers — who, with a military band, are al- 
 ways in attendance — to clear the arena of the sovereign 
 people, some hundreds of whom always take care to re- 
 main strolling over its surface till the very last moment, 
 all for the honour, apparently, of receiving an energetic 
 application of the butt end of a musket. This we saw 
 dispensed right and left, sans ceremonie. 
 
 The second signal brings in the whole of the dramatis 
 personse, horse and foot, led onward in procession by 
 the mounted lancemen or picadores, and terminated by 
 the butcher, garbed decently in white, and an humble 
 but gallant youth trundling a wheelbarrow. After salu- 
 ting the alcalde, and making the circuit, they separate 
 
 p 
 
170 MEXICO. 
 
 into groups. The picadores place themselves about the 
 mouth of the passage which leads to the den ; the ban- 
 darillos and matadores recline against the breastwork 
 which separates the arena from the circular passage at 
 the foot of the lower seats ; while the train of six mules, 
 gayly caparisoned, three abreast, vanish through one 
 of the gateways ; and are followed by the spotless 
 butcher and the wheelbarrow man — and all await the 
 given signal. 
 
 It sounds ! and out comes the bull ! Perhaps he gives 
 a push, en passant, at one of the picadores, but most prob- 
 ably not. If he does so, neither horse nor man are the 
 worse for it. for the former is fully protected from the 
 horns of the animal by the strong leather caparison, 
 which are, moreover, considerately tipped to prevent 
 bloodshed : and the latter takes good care to run no risk. 
 The generality of the bulls, of which eight are despatched 
 on each representation, did their best to avoid the 
 contest ; and in several instances proved their nimble- 
 ness by jumping the breastwork. When teased beyond 
 endurance, they would fight feebly, and perhaps over- 
 throw a horse and rider, but it was evidently mere 
 play to their opponents. When the picadores could ex- 
 tract no more courage from the exhausted animal, the 
 footmen plied their childish and inglorious game of petty 
 annoyance and torture, with barbed darts and fireworks, 
 till, thoroughly spent and jaded, the poor brute was 
 given over to the matador, whose clumsy but pompous 
 attempt at giving a death wound, had almost in every 
 instance to be seconded by the butcher. The clever 
 professional coup de grace of the latter was really admin- 
 istered in mercy. The mules then galloped in — were 
 attached to the dead animal, and scoured as quickly out, 
 again followed, as before, by the nimble wheelbarrow 
 man whose spadeful of sand had meantime obliterated 
 all signs of the tragedy. In short, there is nothing in a 
 Mexican bullfight to tempt a second visit, and nothing 
 distinguishing it from those in Spain, if I except one 
 custom, which I should judge to be peculiar to this coun- 
 try, though 1 may be mistaken. 
 
MEXICO. 171 
 
 Whenever it happens that a bull is so averse to afford 
 sport that he can neither be coaxed nor irritated to 
 fight, but shuns all encounters, a cry of caula ! caula I 
 (tail ! tail !) is raised by the populace. 
 
 On a note of approval issuing from the alcalde's 
 trumpet, two or more horsemen, better mounted than the 
 ordinary picadores, and distinguished from them by being 
 without weapons, are seen to rush forward, at full speed, 
 in pursuit of the recreant bull, who very naturally 
 runs for his life with fresh vigour, round and round the 
 arena. 
 
 The most adroit of his pursuers, on coming up to his 
 left flank, catches hold of the tail with the right hand, 
 and passing it under his own right leg, gives it a turn 
 round the raised pummel of the saddle, at the same time 
 that he suddenly wheels his horse round at right angles 
 by the pressure of the powerful bit, a manoeuvre which 
 rarely fails to throw the bull on his back. This may ap- 
 JDcar very surprising ; but a moment's reflection will 
 show you, if you put yourself in the bull's place, that the 
 feat can hardly fail of being successful, provided you run 
 very fast, and your pursuer contrives to get a very firnfi 
 hold of your tail. 
 
 It was now verging towards the middle of April, and 
 the advance of the season combined with other consid- 
 erations to make us fix our departure from Vera Cruz 
 by the New- York packet of the first of May. 
 
 To efiect this in the most prudential manner, now that 
 the yellow fever was rife on the coast, was incumbent 
 upon men who, after all done and said, valued their 
 lives, and were looking towards home after an absence 
 of upward of two years. 
 
 For many days it was impossible to see our way 
 clearly, on account of the conflicting opinions in the cap- 
 ital, as to the precise time of sailing. There was a vari- 
 ation of eight or ten days in these rumours ; at the same 
 time that we were counselled on all hands not to descend 
 
172 MEXICO. 
 
 into the infected region one hour before it was impera- 
 tively necessary. 
 
 At length all seemed arranged. We despatched the 
 bulk of our baggage to the coast, by the arrieros ; the 
 precise hour of sailing seemed fixed, and determining to 
 take a circuitous road to Puebla de los Angeles, we 
 counted upon arriving at Jalapa some days before the 
 time specified, and on remaining there till the very last 
 moment before we should be obliged to go on board. 
 
 In defiance of the businesslike duties which occupied 
 us the latter days of our stay, however, I contrived to 
 extend my knowledge of the vicinity of the capital by 
 various excursions of a greater or lesser range from the 
 barriers. And from these, you may pardon my singling 
 out one, which I made to the Desierto, a ruined and for- 
 saken Carmelite monastery, perched on the sierra to the 
 westward, about seven leagues distant from the capital. 
 My companion for the day was an English resident of 
 the city ; and two mounted domestics completed our 
 company. 
 
 We left the city at sunrise, and passing along the line 
 of the aqueduct to Chapultepec, followed the road to the 
 left towards Tacubaya. We skirted that beautiful vil- 
 lage, and began the ascent of the sterile, upland tract 
 immediately behind, by the main road leading across the 
 mountains to the elevated plateau of Toluca.* 
 
 The bareness of the first part of the ascent is extreme ; 
 and cultivation is confined to a few plantations of maguey 
 in the vicinity of the scattered villages, or on the imme- 
 diate border of the rivulets flowing down the barrancas, 
 with which the flanks of the mountains are seen to be 
 everywhere furrowed. All these slopes were once cov- 
 ered with forests, but the heedless destruction of the 
 
 * The table land of Toluca lies 8,530 feet over the Pacific, and nearly 
 eleven hundred over the valley of Mexico. It is the most elevated of 
 the four principal plateaux of Mexico, but produces fine crops of ma- 
 guey and maize. 
 
THE DESIERTO. 173 
 
 timber by the conquerors has entailed the loss of the 
 soil, which they nourished and protected from the dry 
 air of the climate and the effects of the abundant rains 
 of the wet season. 
 
 Shortly after passing the village of Santa Fe, we quit- 
 ted the beaten track to Toluca, and descended into a 
 deep barranca to the left ; continuing to follow it for 
 some miles, till the broad ravine dwindled to a green 
 upland glen. We now reached the wooded region of 
 the mountain; and, in fine, struck into the ancient paved 
 road leading to the Desierto. In former times this route 
 afforded a comparatively easy access to the inhabitants 
 of the capital, with whom, at certain seasons, a visit to 
 this monastery was an object of great importance. The 
 calzada, though in perfect preservation, and confined be- 
 tween low walls, is solitary enough now. It winds up- 
 ward through woods, which, in their character and pro- 
 ductions, reminded me more of England than those of 
 any part of New Spain I had seen. Thickets of roses 
 and wild brier occupied the ground under the lofty de- 
 ciduous trees ; while the occurrence of little patches of 
 greensward, covered with a species of daisy, and many 
 other flowers which are characteristic of our own climatOj 
 added no little to the resemblance. 
 
 On attaining the elevation of the little shelf, upon 
 which the monastery is situated, towards the head of a 
 steep gully in the breast of the sierra, the pine begins to 
 predominate, and probably in former times it was the 
 principal forest tree of the whole chain. We found the 
 Desierto situated amid a wilderness of flowering shrubs, 
 which, since the hand of time has unroofed a great por- 
 tion of the structure, have shed their seeds into the courts, 
 till they were positively choked with bushes. Nor was 
 the elder here wanting — that never-failing parasite of 
 the gray ruined abbeys and castles of England. 
 
 The architecture of the building, which was erected 
 soon after the conquest, is by no means distinguished for 
 
 p 3 
 
174 THE DESIERTO. 
 
 elegance ; strength having been evidently much more 
 valuable in the eyes of the builders. 
 
 The distribution of the different parts was that usual 
 in monastic erections, and the whole style heavy in the 
 extreme. The cloisters and many of the ceils still re- 
 tained their strong-arched roof, and the stucco on their 
 walls. 
 
 Here, sheltered in the wooded hills, far away from 
 the great roads ; perched a thousand feet above the broad 
 plain, and its glistening lakes and splendid city, with 
 many a league of rough hill and deep birranca between, 
 it might have been supposed that the barefooted brethren 
 would surely have been permitted to lead their life of 
 I'etirement and reflection in undisturbed quiet ; and that 
 their bells would continue to wake the echoes of the 
 hills, as long as their faith was the faith of the thousands 
 in the plain below : but no ! they were richly endowed ; 
 and throughout their former seat it was evident that the 
 hand of violence, more than that of time, had produced 
 the utter ruin visible on every side. The view from 
 the Desierto, owing to the peculiarity of the situation be- 
 tween two hills, is confined almost altogether to the sur- 
 rounding woods. 
 
 A solitary family of Indian woodcutters occupied one 
 of the outbuildings ; and here upon the grass, under the 
 shade of a group of ancient trees, we luxuriated for several 
 hours in the delicious air of the mountains, till the heat 
 of the day being on the wane, we awoke our sleeping 
 mozos, and mounting our horses, began our descent to- 
 wards the city. 
 
 The view which burst upon us, as, escaping from the 
 ravine of the Desierto, we gained a projecting woody 
 knoll on the side of the mountain, impending over the 
 great barranca before mentioned, was of matchless mag- 
 nificence. The day had been altogether cloudless; but 
 during our ascent, the sun shone too brightly ; and a 
 rich purple haze had thrown a kind of veil over the more 
 
THE DESIERTO. 175 
 
 distant parts of the plain, and the great chain to the east- 
 ward. 
 
 Now the whole scene before us was bathed in a flood 
 of ciear light, and the forms and colouring of the most 
 distant objects were distinctly visible through an atmo- 
 sphere of the greatest transparency and purity. 
 
 Beyond the broken country at our feet, and the fertile 
 region, we saw the broad expanse of plain, stretching 
 from the mountains behind Guadaloupe, far towards the 
 south, with its groups of volcanic hills breaking the 
 monotony of the surface. Directly in advance — the 
 centre of the vast picture — lay the miniature domes and 
 towers of the capital, distinct, from their number and 
 colouring; beyond, the blue and broad surface of Lake 
 Tezcuco, from end to end, with the Penon de los Banos 
 upon the shore, and the great mole of San Cristobal at 
 the northern extremity. Exactly over the city, at the 
 base of the eastern chain, great as was the distance, we 
 could distinctly recognise the towns of Tezcuco and 
 Huejutla, and the Hacienda of Chapingo — the dark line 
 of the Contador, and even still farther removed, the 
 form of the great pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan. 
 The latter could not be less than forty miles distant in a 
 straight line. 
 
 How many times in descending, at every fresh turn, 
 did we draw our bridles to gaze upon this noble and re- 
 markable landscape, which increased in beauty hour by 
 hour 1 I shall never forget the view presented as we 
 gained the last step of the descent before entering Tacu- 
 baya, when that beautiful verdant region of gardens and 
 orchards in which it and the neighbouring villages lay 
 opened at our feet, and the Archiepiscopal Palace, the 
 noble church, and the hill and palace of Chapultepec, 
 formed the middle ground to the more distant prospect, 
 the main features of which, though diminished in extent, 
 remained the same : nor, as sunset approached, can I 
 forget the gorgeous and inimitable colouring of the great 
 vista to the southeast, where the receding mountains 
 rose one above the other, in purple, violet, and gold, till 
 
176 SAN AUGUSTIN. 
 
 crowned by the towering snow-clad summit of the Great 
 Volcano, gleaming in the evening sky. 
 
 To the last hour of our stay in the city of Mexico, we 
 made ample experience of the instabihty and fickleness 
 of the people with whom we had to do. On the very 
 morning of our proposed departure, after endless troubles 
 in getting togetfier the bipeds and quadrupeds deemed 
 necessary for our journey, Mariano's defection was an- 
 nounced with many signs of sorrow by Garcia; and in 
 despair, we had to hire the first rogue who offered him- 
 self, on his own terms. 
 
 However, set out we did, on the evening of April the 
 19th, our party consisting of our three selves, Mr. E., an 
 English artist, and his domestic — our two mozos, Garcia 
 and Jose Maria— and lastly, an arriero with three beasts 
 of burden. Our fat mule Macho, who had never stirred 
 out of Don Floresco's stable during our month's stay in 
 the city, issued forth as fat and sleek as a dormouse, 
 and testified his joy at his escape by kicking every one 
 who approached him^ 
 
 A little after dusk we entered San Augustin de los 
 Cuestos, and found a tolerable posada, where we hired 
 our apartments, and spent the night. I have surely not 
 omitted to describe what the traveller's accommodation 
 in these Mexican inns consists of — four walls, a roof, and 
 a mud floor — a table sometimes, but not often — a bench 
 perchance, but very seldom — and very frequently nothing 
 to eat but what you bring with you, and nothing to drink 
 but bad water — with a convenient answer to every ob- 
 servation or question, '' Quien sahe V and to every civil 
 requisition, " No hai ; nada, signor /" 
 
 1 say nothing of our array and mode of equipment, as 
 they were precisely the same as on our upward journey 
 from the coast, with the exception, as you will remark, 
 of a diminished train of baggage and baggage mules. 
 Our present arriero reminded us of Espindola, by his 
 dogged honesty and general desire to oblige ; though in 
 other respects very inferior to him. Garcia was not a 
 
SAN AUGUSTIN. 177 
 
 bad representative of the valiant Julian, as he was just 
 as much inclined to act the rapacious villain, to get fud- 
 dled, and to vapour about his deeds of arms. I believe, 
 however, that he was not quite so cowardly ; and would 
 have fought very heroically if he found it absolutely im- 
 possible to run away, or save his life by any other means. 
 Jose Maria took the place of Miguel. 
 
 All accounts coincided in affording us the perspective 
 of being mercilessly robbed in the course of the follow- 
 ing day, either in ascending the mountain, by the bands 
 of I'lalpam, which of course keep a sharp eye upon the 
 parties arriving from the capital — or in the neighbour- 
 hood of the Cruz del Marques on the summit, by the 
 band of Toluca, which there finds a convenient lurking- 
 place in the pine forest ; or by the band of Cuernavaca, 
 which plies its profession in the broken ground on the 
 steep western slope of the sierra. This was worse than 
 being between hawk and buzzard. 
 
 To give you an idea what sort of bargains are made in 
 this country, 1 may mention that each of our valets 
 liad been hired at the rate of eighteen dollars a months 
 plus four reals a day for their food. Further, we were 
 bound by our contract to allow them at their dismissal at 
 Jalapa, twelve dollars each for their return to the capi- 
 tal, and a horse ; or, if they should prefer it, a seat in 
 the stage to Mexico, value thirty dollars. To our arrie- 
 ro we gave eight dollars a day as long as he was in our 
 service. 
 
 You might suppose that ordinary cupidity might have 
 been satisfied by such favourable terms ; but no, by the 
 assistance of Mr. E.,who was an old traveller in this 
 strange country, we detected, at the very outset, a sly 
 contrivance to make us pay for a huge account of tortil- 
 las, pulque, Chile, agua ardiente, and so forth, which ihey 
 demolished daily. This defeat, and our determination 
 to set off before sunrise, soured the temper of our re- 
 tainers for the first hours of the day ; but they seemed 
 subsequently to have made up their minds to smile at 
 
178 PASS OF THE CRUZ DEL MARQUES. 
 
 grief and disappointment, and return to their ordinary 
 gayety and good humour. 
 But, en avant ! 
 
 The day had hardly dawned, when riding past the pic- 
 turesque church of San Augustin, we were to be seen 
 commencing the ascent of the mountains in the rear, by 
 the great route of the Cruz del Marques, by which com- 
 munication is kept up between the valley of Mexico and 
 the states towards the Pacific to the west and southwest. 
 It is impassable for carriages ; and the whole trade is 
 carried on by means of vast trains of mules. As we as- 
 cended, the morning broke over the summits of the 
 mountains of Tlaloc, brightening the snows of the volca- 
 noes, and gradually lighting up the barren tract of the 
 pedrigal to the left, and the vast extent of plain, and the 
 lakes of Xochimilco and Chalco, which lay behind us. 
 The huge flanks of the Ajusco soon hid the part of the 
 valley in which the capital is situated from our view. 
 
 Again and again, as we ascended, we turned to look 
 back upon this scene, and it was with something like 
 giffif I saw it vanish for ever from my eyes. It seemed 
 tM%T,e as if a splendid volume had been laid before me, 
 and that I had been permitted to glance at its title and 
 decorations, but had seen it shut in my face just as I had 
 addressed myself to read. 
 
 Some hours elapsed before we reached the summit of 
 the pass. 
 
 The road winds over the unequal surface of the moun- 
 tain for many leagues before it passes the shoulder of the 
 Ajusco. That noble mountain rises to the right, with 
 sides clothed with dark pine forests, and furrowed by 
 deep barrancas. From its highest summit, the height of 
 which I have elsewhere indicated, it is said that the 
 Western Ocean in the vicinity of Acapulco can be dis- 
 tinguished. On the most elevated ridge of the sierra, 
 many short truncated cones mark the different craters 
 by which the floods of lava, and beds of pumice, pebbles, 
 
?ASS OF THE CRUZ DEL MARQUES. 179 
 
 and sand which cover a great portion of the porphyritic 
 trap and basalt composing the cordillera issued forth. 
 
 From my passing observations I should suppose that 
 some of these craters have ejected water as well as fire ; 
 and particularly the cone which the traveller leaves to 
 the right in traversing the ridge. It has evidently thrown 
 its lavas on both directions ; and report says, that one 
 immense stream proceeding from it, or from a neighbour- 
 ing cone of the Ajusco chain, may be traced down the 
 successive steps of the table land to the very shore of the 
 Pacific. 
 
 In process of time we reached the Cruz del Marques,* 
 a solid stone cross erected by Cortez, to indicate the 
 bounds of the territory assigned to him by Montezuma. 
 
 The shade of the pine forest, which still clothes a great 
 part of the upper region of the mountain, was grateful 
 to us ; at the same time that it was the most perilous 
 part of our voyage, so far as the probability of our being 
 robbed went. We passed, however, without molesta- 
 tion, retaining possession of our watches and purses, and 
 the cherished opinion of our being invincible. 
 
 If, in quitting the valley of Mexico at daybreak, we 
 had to complain of the cold, noon brought with it a de- 
 gree of heat for which we were quite unprepared, and it 
 grew in intensity as we descended the steep face of the 
 mountain to the southward. The western slopes of the 
 cordillera of Mexico are far more sudden and inclined 
 than those on the side of the gulf, and the consequence 
 is, that by the route we were now following, after a jour- 
 ney of a few hours' travel, you descend to a level, to 
 reach which, on the opposite side, you must travel for 
 several days. 
 
 We had not descended far upon the southwestern 
 slope, before we descried the sea of broad and yellow 
 plain, which here formed the second step of the table 
 
 * About 9,500 feet above the sea. 
 
180 CUERNAVACA. 
 
 land, stretching into the bright haze as far as the eye 
 could penetrate. 
 
 As we proceeded, the heat increased ; and, as we 
 wound along the edge of the ravines, the road became 
 almost impassable for the horses, from the quantity of 
 rock and stone with which they were strewed : and 
 ri^ht glad were we, after passing through a picturesque 
 village, at the foot of the mountain, to find ourselves and 
 our train housed in a comfortable posada, in the town 
 of Cuernavaca, after an uninterrupted ride of sixteen 
 leagues, without halt or refreshment. 
 
 I think we treated both ourselves and our quadrupeds 
 with unusual severity on the occasion. But there seemed 
 to be no alternative. 
 
 In resolving to take the circuitous route upon which 
 w^e had now set out, we had a further end in view than 
 that of merely extending our observations a little, by see- 
 ing a part of the country which was less known and less 
 hackneyed, than the direct and ordinary one from the cap- 
 ital to Puebla. Ever since we had entered New Spain, 
 it had been a pet scheme to visit certain remarkable re- 
 mains, existing in the vicinity of Cuernavaca. I refer to 
 the fortified hill and palace of Xochicalco, or the " House 
 of Flowers," of which little was known, but what was to 
 be culled from a small pamphlet in Spanish, written many 
 years ago, from which Humboldt probably gives the few 
 facts mentioned in his Researches. He was unable to 
 visit Xochicalco himself. 
 
 Our inquiries in Mexico with regard to the precise po- 
 sition and character of these ruins, were productive of 
 no kind of certain information. Among all our acquaint- 
 ances, European and native, we could not find more than 
 two or three who had ever heard of their existence ; and 
 further, " Q.uien sabe ?" was the answer to everything. 
 
 However, hurried as we found we should be, if we in- 
 tended to leave Vera Cruz on the first of May, we kept 
 steadily to our purpose ; and, no sooner had we re- 
 freshed ourselves by ablutions and a hearty meal, fol- 
 lowed by a basin of excellent lemon ice, and had seen 
 
CUERNAVACA. 181 
 
 ibe termination of a savage affray in the opposite housCj 
 in which braining with clubs and stones was the fashion, 
 than we set about our inquiries in considerable confi- 
 dence, as there could be no question but the ruins, after 
 all, were to be found in this neighbourhood. Our host 
 and his neighbours were first applied to. Quien sahe f 
 quien sahe ? was all \ye got for our pains. We went to 
 a young merchant, the only European resident of any 
 standing here; he had never heard of the existence of 
 such a place. At length we determined to make use of 
 a note of introduction to the principal curaof the town^ 
 and here we were more successful. He knew that Xo- 
 chicalco existed, but he had never visited it. According 
 to him, it lay among a group of hills which he pointed 
 out to us from his window, across the great plain, called 
 the Cerro de Xochicalco ; and he promised to furnish us 
 with a guide for the following day, and perhaps to ac- 
 company us himself He stated the distance was per- 
 haps three, or at most four leagues. 
 
 Jaded as we were, we set about our preparations with 
 alacrity. As our speedy advance to the coast was now 
 a matter of absolute necessity, we determined to spare 
 our horses as far as practicable : and, with infinite pains, 
 borrowed two others, in order to leave them to their re- 
 pose for the time of our absence. We decided to set off 
 at daybreak, leaving Garcia and the arriero to proceed 
 with the mules to the town of Yautepec, six leagues dis- 
 tant : with the intention, on our parts, after our anticipa- 
 ted return from our excursion in the course of the after- 
 noon, to take our fresh horses and follow them thither. 
 Wise and good projects, but, like many human ones, vain 
 nevertheless 1 
 
 That a restless night should follow a day of excite- 
 ment and exposure like the last, was not to be wondered 
 at. The doubt which hung over our whole projects of 
 advance to Vera Cruz, and our fate there, did not per- 
 haps mend the matter ; and for ray part I own, that at 
 dawn, I arose from the floor of the chamber where we 
 
 9, 
 
182 CUERNAVACA. 
 
 were all stowed together with bags and baggage, fever- 
 ish and unrefreshed. 
 
 Just as we rode out of the gateway of our posada, the 
 first sunbeams were shining upon the white summit of 
 Popocatepetl, which now appeared exactly in the east. 
 
 Cuernavacais most nobly situated, on a tongue of land, 
 girdled on three sides by tremendous barrancas ; in 
 which, matchless sterility, and the exuberant and broad- 
 leaved vegetation of the tropics, are blended together in 
 an extraordinary manner. It possesses a large church 
 and prison, and many other buildings, the architectural 
 details of which are uncommonly picturesque. I never 
 saw a country where there were richer subjects for the 
 artist, than that in which our rambles were placed for 
 some days to come. 
 
 The mule path which we followed, led us for some 
 time along the edge of the great barranca to the west of 
 the town, in a direction nearly due south. But after 
 traversing it by a long descent, and longer ascent, and 
 gaining a village where we took a second guide — the 
 first, fcrnished by the cura, not being acquainted with 
 the road — we crossed a band of sugar and cotton planta- 
 tions; and, entering upon the uncultivated stony plains, 
 bent our course a little more to the westward, towards the 
 cerro in advance. Our borrowed horses were wretched 
 animals ; and I well remember the hard trot of the ema- 
 ciated beast which I had the misfortune to bestride ; and 
 the galling position in which I was pinioned by a badly 
 constructed Mexican saddle. 
 
 By some arrangement of the cura's, which we did not 
 then comprehend, our party had been increased as we 
 left Cuernavaca, by a fine, hardy, bold-looking, armed 
 horseman, who kept us company the whole day, whether 
 as guide or as companion we scarcely knew ; though on 
 our return we had a hint given us to pay him a few dol- 
 lars in quality of the tirst. He was not talkative ; at the 
 same time there was nothing uncourteous in his reserve, 
 or general bearing, which I can best liken to that of a 
 stalwart and stark moss trooper. We had our suspicions 
 
THE PLAINS. 183 
 
 at the time that he was a known bandit, whose fideHty 
 and safeguard the good cura had thus thought proper to 
 secure ; and we have since had them verified, and found 
 that this was really the case. 
 
 The plains over which we now moved, were more 
 barren and inhospitable in their character than I can 
 describe. The surface, strewed with loose scoria and 
 rockj and brown as the sands of Arabia, produced not 
 a blade of grass ; but reflected the hot rays of the sun 
 with a glare which blistered and excoriated the face and 
 hands. And the fervid, glowing, furnacelike heat of the 
 sun I shall never forget ! There it hung in the heavens 
 like a blazing ball of copper, shedding its beams through 
 a yellow haze, which, at an early hour of the day, 
 spread a thin transparent veil over the vast plains and 
 their towering mountain boundary ; and as it rose to the 
 zenith, throwing our shadows under our feet, it scorched 
 the skin like fire. In vain the eye was cast abroad in 
 search of relief : every object far and near glared with the 
 reflected brilliance — not a tree, not a rock, not an over- 
 hanging bank in the shadowless and thirsty land ! The 
 yawning barranca, deep as it might be, formed but a 
 focus, where the sun's rays were concentrated. The 
 very hills in advance seemed to cast no shade. Opin- 
 ions as to our distance from them, were hazarded and 
 recanted again and again. They loomed in thin haze, 
 till they appeared near at hand, while their lowest swell 
 lay at the distance of many miles. And then the bar- 
 rancas I Though our previous travelling in this singular 
 country had prepared us for this feature of the plains as 
 well as of the mountain slopes, we had nowhere seen 
 them upon the same scale. One of those we traversed 
 this morning, of which no indication had been observed 
 till we arrived at the very brink, took us an entire hour 
 to traverse. Though water has undoubtedly been an 
 agent in their formation, the origin of the greater number 
 of those tremendous furrows in the surface of the table 
 land is to be traced to the earthquake, and the sudden 
 disruption of the strata by volcanic agency. You see 
 many, in which the two sides, though furlongs apart, 
 
184 XOCHICALCO. 
 
 exhibit incontestable signs, that their jagged perpen- 
 dicular walls were once in junction. Every Mexican 
 traveller must have remarked the insidious manner in 
 which many of these gulfs commence. In riding along 
 the plains, you perhaps find yourself separated from the 
 con)panion with whom you are conversing^ by a crack 
 or fissure of a few inches in breadth : you proceed care- 
 lessly ; the rent gapes imperceptibly wider and wider; 
 and increases in depth, till it imperatively demands your 
 attention. Perhaps a very natural dislike to retrace 
 your steps, and ignorance of the real nature and extent 
 of the obstacle, induces you to keep your direction in 
 search of its termination ; when, before you are aware, 
 you find a hideous and impassable gulf yawning between 
 you, delving deep for many miles into the face of the 
 landscape, and no alternative left you but to return to its 
 very source. I sketch from experience. Some of the 
 largest barrancas I have described form beds for the 
 scanty streams descending from the forested slopes of the 
 neighbouring cordillera, and at one of these, about ten in 
 the morning, we quenched for a moment the burning 
 thirst of our party, men and horses. 
 
 An hour after, we reached the base of the hills which 
 apparently form a detached group in the table land. 
 For many miles previously we had observed and re- 
 peatedly crossed an ancient paved causeway, about eight 
 feet in breadth, composed of large stones tightly wedged 
 together, and running directly over plain and barranca^ 
 towards the bill of Xochicalco. 
 
 The strange mould of the summit of the steep hill on 
 our left, as we entered the group by a small valley, had 
 long drawn our attention, as it appeared to be surrounded 
 by a regular rampart ; but I incline to think that it may 
 be the natural formation. 
 
 At the termination of the little valley above mentioned, 
 we arrived at length at the foot of the eminence which 
 was the principal object of our excursion. 
 
 The circuit of the hill of Xochicalco, or the House of 
 Flowers, may perhaps measure three miles, and its per« 
 
XOCHICALCO. 185 
 
 pendicular height about three hundred feet. The opin- 
 ion has been hazarded, that the whole mass is artificial ; 
 but it is one I cannot entertain for a moment, as its whole 
 position and general configuration shows it to be one of 
 the group, though there is no doubt but its entire surface, 
 great as it is, has been subjected to a general design, and 
 cased from its summit to its base with artificial work. 
 The decay of centuries, at the same time that it has in- 
 jured many of the details, yet allows the general plan to 
 be detected. Even the broad moat, which encircled the 
 whole, remains perfectly distinct. 
 
 Alighting from our horses at the foot of the hill, which 
 is partially covered with dry brushwood and leafless 
 trees, we scrambled upward from one stage to another, 
 over the crumbling stonework, which, from its steepness 
 occasionally, rendered advance difficult. Four terraces 
 apparently, made the entire circuit at regular intervals 
 of elevation, though occasionally they w^ere not easy to 
 detect, from the accumulation of rubbish. 
 
 The intermediate slopes are covered with platforms, 
 bastions, pyramidical and rectangular elevations and 
 stages, one above the other, and other erections of which 
 I can neither describe the exact forms nor guess their 
 appropriation. It is evident that all were faced with 
 the same uncemented stonework, and were accommo- 
 dated to the natural moulding of the hill, which, how- 
 ever far from regular, was conical in its general outlines. 
 Upon a platform in connection with the highest terrace, 
 we were obliged to leave our horses, before we climbed 
 up a steep, stone-faced declivity, evidently pyramidical 
 in its structure, to the summit. 
 
 Thence we commanded a wide view over the neigh- 
 bouring hills and plains — a scene of matchless sterility, 
 glaring in the noonday sun ; and we now saw, that in 
 addition to the paved road from the north which 1 have 
 mentioned, there were others of precisely the same con- 
 struction, running towards the " House of Flowers," as 
 to a common centre, from other points of the compass. 
 
 From the summit we proceeded to the northward into 
 a hollow square, situated at a somewhat lovv'er elevation, 
 
 0,2 
 
186 XOCHICALCO. 
 
 in the centre of which we found the ruins of the remark- 
 able altar, or teocalli, which has been the principal ob- 
 ject of speculation or attention. 
 
 Though evidently formed upon the same general prin- 
 ciples with the other ancient pyramidal structures of 
 New Spain, it differs from every other erection of the 
 class hitherto discovered in Mexico — the pyramid of 
 Papantla excepted — by being wholly constructed of 
 large regularly hewn and symmetrically laid masses of 
 hard and richly sculptured rock, instead of layers of un- 
 burnt bricks, or piles of earth and stone. 
 
 In its perfect slate, which it preserved till a compara- 
 tively recent date, it is said to have consisted of seven 
 distinct stories, diminishing of course in size, but of pre- 
 cisely similar construction. Of these we now only found 
 the lower story, and portions of the second, remaining in 
 their original position ; the hewn stones composing the 
 remainder having been wantonly moved and carried off, 
 little more than a century ago, by the proprietors of the 
 sugar plantations in the neighbourhood, for the founda- 
 tion of their haciendas. 
 
 The base lines of the lowest square, which correspond 
 to the cardinal points, may be fifty feet in length ; and 
 the height of the first story from the present level of the 
 hollow square in which it stands, eight or nine feet. 
 
 One remarkable fact is, that instead of the wall rising 
 at right angles from the base, it inclines inward, to the 
 height of six feet, v/ith a variation of perhaps fifteen de- 
 grees from the perpendicular, when the completion of 
 the story is effected by perpendicular masses, sculptured 
 in like manner, being placed so as to project out several 
 inches from the line of those immediately below ; a rude 
 analogy of outline with the Egyptian architecture, that 
 must immediately strike you. It is to be supposed that 
 every story was constructed in a similar manner. 
 
 The chief characteristics of the sculpture, are its de- 
 cision of outline and boldness of relief. The hardness 
 of the dark basaltic stone in which they are cut, has pre- 
 served its freshness without the slightest appearance of 
 decay. 
 
 To describe the character of the isolated figures, is 
 
XOCHICALCO. 187 
 
 out of my power. The majority of the hieroglyphic 
 signs — for such they doubtless are — resembled nothing 
 in heaven or earth ; but in many parts I detected the 
 clothed human figures, seemingly reposing in the Asiatic 
 manner. 
 
 Whether each face of the structure bore throughout 
 similar devices, placed in exactly similar positions, I do 
 not recollect positively : I think not ; at the same time 
 it was certainly the case at the angles, where some of the 
 richest and most singular figures were to be found. The 
 ornament which has been described as "a crocodile 
 spouting water," is of very large size, and must have 
 been repeated eight times in each story, by being sym- 
 metrically placed at either extremity of the inclined base- 
 ment of the structure. 
 
 As to its bearing resemblance to " a crocodile spout- 
 ing water," that is a mere fancy ; it may as well por- 
 tray the head of a grifiin, or of any other fanciful mon- 
 ster ; and what the ancient observer interpreted as a jet 
 of water, was, in my eyes, intended to represent a double 
 tongue. 
 
 We were now nearly blinded by the heat and glare ; 
 and after half an hour's survey, and reiterated but abor- 
 tive attempts at a detailed sketch, I was glad to join my 
 companions in beating a retreat ; for the vertical sun's 
 rays left no side of the building in shade, and the trees 
 and shrubs which grew on the borders of the enclosure, 
 and upon the ruins, were leafless and desolate. 
 
 Masses of hewn stone were strewed about the base, 
 and lay in disorder on the building itself. In the centre 
 of the teocaili was an excavation, but evidently made in 
 modern times, probably in a search after hidden treas- 
 ure ; and yet, that the second story of the pyramid, at 
 least, had contained a chamber, I satisfied myself, by dis- 
 covering on one of the western faces, among the base 
 stones of that story, which had not been moved from 
 their original position, one mass, which, both by its situa- 
 tion and the fact of its being sculptured on two of its ad- 
 joining faces, plainly indicated its having served as a 
 doorpost. Its fellow was not in its place, but I have not 
 the slightest doubt of the fact. 
 
188 XOCHICALCO. 
 
 After leaving this interesting locality, we made a wide 
 circuit of the nnount to visit certain subterraneous exca- 
 vations, entering deep into a shoulder of the hill, which, 
 to judge by appearances, has been almost entirely cased 
 over by the hand of man. 
 
 How far these caverns run under ground, none can 
 pretend to say ; our circumstances compelled us to rest 
 satisfied with ascertaining the fact of their existence, and 
 that there was every sign of their being wholly artificial. 
 
 The hill of Xochicalco may still be considered un- 
 broken ground for the antiquarian ; and there is every 
 probability of its rewarding a really careful and atten- 
 tive survey. The details of the group of hills and the 
 surrounding country should not be neglected. Our ex- 
 perience may be so far useful to our successors, whoever 
 they may be, as to show, that here, plenty of time, and 
 the means of shelter and refreshment, are absolutely requi- 
 site for the excursion. Situated as v^e were, and little 
 as we positively eflfected, I wonder that we did so much. 
 By the route we had come, we agreed that it must be 
 seven leagues from Cuernavaca. 
 
 I need not tell you that there is neither the shadow of 
 a tradition as to the people whose hands reared this sin- 
 gular monument, nor of the purposes to which it was 
 devoted. I hazard no opinion either as to one or the 
 other. 
 
 The general traveller will of course point to the Tol- 
 tecs ; the more learned or pedantic may suggest that it 
 is referable to the Zapotecs, and the probability is that 
 they are the work of neither one nor the other. 
 
 Whether the " House of Flowers" was made subser- 
 vient to self-defence, and formed a stronghold ; or was 
 a hill of delight set apart for the habitation of a monarch ; 
 or a high place, where the religious mysteries of a people 
 were performed ; or a spot chosen for a union of all these 
 objects, it is still one of the most extraordinary localities 
 in New Spain, and deserves much more attention than it 
 has hitherto received. 
 
THE PLAINS. 189 
 
 Not a drop of water was to be found on the hill, or in 
 the vicinity ; and when we mounted our horses in the 
 ditch, and began our retreat across the plain, we were 
 all panting with thirst and fatigue — none more than my- 
 self, whose feverish night had badly fitted for the fatigue 
 of a day like that I am describing. The nearest Indian 
 village lay at a considerable distance out of the direct 
 road, but we were all decided to repair thither. As to 
 our going forward that evening to Yautepec from Cuer- 
 navaca, that was at once acknowledged to be impracti- 
 cable. How shall I paint that arid stony plain, or that 
 blazing sun — the blood seemed to boil in my veins. 
 
 The moment we reached the village, we threw our- 
 selves off our horses, and rushed with one accord into 
 the first palmetto-thatched hut, much to the terror of the 
 female occupants, who had hardly time to hide their bag 
 of maize, and get assurance to tell the customary lies. 
 " Water — water, give us some water !" No hai ! " Is 
 there none in the village?" No hai! "Any pulque?" 
 No hai I " Any fruit ?" No hai ! — no hai ! — no hai !■— 
 nada I nada I signores ! None of us asked for a Chile 
 pepper ! We were almost in despair. 
 
 But shade was a luxury, even though it brought no cool- 
 ness ; and we lay down upon the floor. Good words 
 and cigaritas, however, soon had their effect : and water 
 was found — first in thimblefuls, then in sufficient quan- 
 tity to bring some degree of comfort both to our- 
 selves and our horses ; and at last we got some frijoles, 
 tortillas, lemons, and a small lump of sugar. The poor 
 beasts, who, bad as they were, had suffered with much 
 patience, equally with ourselves, were invigorated by a 
 few bundles of maize stalks. 
 
 We staid here three hours, and then resumed our re- 
 turn. In the neighbourhood of the village there was 
 some slight cultivation, and the direction which we took 
 over the plains in returning, at the same time that we 
 avoided two of the most extensive barrancas, brought us 
 to more than one small stream, where the scattered trees 
 aflx)rded some solace to the eye, and a moment's shelter 
 fi'om the sun. On the banks of one of them, we saw 
 
190 THE PLAINS. 
 
 with indignation a number of the sculptured blocks, 
 from the Teocalli of XochicalcOj lying half buried in the 
 soil. 
 
 The haze which I had remarked in the earlier hours 
 of the day continued to clothe all objects, without abso- 
 lutely hiding them ; but the outlines of the more distant 
 ranges were so indistinct, that we could scarcely trace 
 them. Such was the difficult character of the surface, 
 and the continual checks we met with from barrancas, 
 that the day was far spent before we arrived at the brink 
 of the magnificent gorge which forms the intrenchment 
 of Cuernavaca on the west. In the morning we had 
 crossed it many miles farther down. It is splendidly 
 varied in its character, and in the light of the sun, setting 
 in gold and purple over the plain behind us, formed a 
 magnificent picture. 
 
 The twilight fell upon us before we had extricated 
 ourselves from the depth of the abyss, and when we did 
 so by gaining the farther edge, the moon was shining 
 without rival in the heaven. 
 
 I cannot describe to you the delicious feelings which 
 came over us, as we felt the cooling night air fanning our 
 temples, while riding through the rich and luxuriant 
 groves and gardens in the outskirts of Cuernavaca, 
 which we reached a quarter of an hour after. 
 
 What a strange machine the human body is. All this 
 positive suffering seemed to be forgotten as soon as it 
 was past ! We supped as usual, drank inordinate quan- 
 tities of ice — a luxury rendered a common one to the 
 inhabitants of this torrid clime, by the vicinity of the 
 volcanoes — threw ourselves upon our serapis on the floor, 
 and the next morning rose, with both bodies and minds 
 refreshed and invigorated, to enter upon another day's 
 adventure. 
 
 The ])lains of Cuernavaca lie at an elevation of nearly 
 five thousand five hundred feet above the Pacific, and 
 four thousand four hundred below the Cruz del Marques ; 
 those of Yautepec and Cuautla Amilpas, to which we 
 were now about to repair, at a general level of eight 
 
CUERNAVACA. 191 
 
 hundred feet lower. Great as this degree of elevation 
 may appear, the peculiar conformation of the surface- 
 its exposure to the south, while it is protected to the north 
 and east by the great wall of the Sierra Madre — the 
 extraordinary heat generated by the reflection of the 
 sun's rays from those vast naked plains, all conspire to 
 give them a climate more approaching to the tierras ca~ 
 lientes than that of the tierras templadas. Wherever 
 mould of any description is found in a position which 
 admits of either natural or artificial irrigation, there the 
 fruits of the tropics are produced in the greatest perfec- 
 tion, and with a strength of vegetation which none can 
 imagine but those who have observed it. The barrancas 
 of these plains form the hothouses of the capital above, 
 and from them the market is daily supplied with abun- 
 dance of the richest fruits. These are chiefly reared by 
 the Indian population, whose little bamboo enclosures, 
 overshadowed by the broad leaves of the banana and 
 papaya, form many a beautiful picture in the vicinity of 
 Cuernavaca. 
 
 We quitted the town by a mule track, traversing a bar- 
 ranca to the east ; and shaped our course towards the 
 mountains bounding the plain in that direction. Our ar- 
 riero and his mules had, according to his orders, left the 
 town the preceding day. This was so far a disadvantage 
 to us, as we were without a proper guide, and we soon 
 experienced the inconveniences consequent upon this 
 circumstance. 
 
 The plains of Cuernavaca are separated from those of 
 Yautepec, lying more to the southeast, by a range of 
 secondary mountains, clothed with wood, and exhibiting 
 in their grotesque and broken outline more of the charac- 
 teristics of the Dolomite ridges of the Tyrol, than any 
 other to which I can compare them : I believe that they 
 are principally composed of breccia. The view opens 
 full upon them immediately below Cuernavaca, while 
 above them tower the long elevated ridge of the sierra, 
 and at their termination the huge forms of the great vol- 
 canoes rise into the sky. 
 
 But I want words to describe the sublimity and beauty 
 
192 THE MALPAIS. 
 
 of the scenes which we now saw unfolded to us, hour 
 after hour, for the following three days, while approach- 
 ing and rounding the base of Popocatepetl. 
 
 Though, according to the information we had re- 
 ceived, the town of Yautepec was but six leagues distant, 
 and our pace was this morning far from slow, six hours' 
 hard riding scarcely sufficed to bring us within sight of it. 
 
 This was partly owing, it is true, to the character of 
 the soil, and certain detours which we unfortunately 
 made, in bending too much to the eastward. After pass- 
 ing a large Indian village, about six miles from Cuerna- 
 vaca, we came upon a malpais, ora thick bedof hard black 
 basaltic lava, covering a large extent of country towards 
 the base of the mountains in advance. The faint mule 
 track w^andered to and fro over the iron surface in a 
 most provoking manner ; now to the south, then to the 
 north, till we were perfectly bewildered : the more so, 
 as the whole was covered, in spite of its sterility, with 
 trees and gigantic cacti of divers species. 
 
 This obstacle overcome, we entered a valley in the 
 hills — ascended a ravine, and, from the summit of the 
 pass, looked down upon the broad plains of Yautepec and 
 Cuautla, stretching far to the eastward along the foot of 
 the great chain ; with numberless towns, villages, and 
 haciendas, situated in the midst of tracts of fertile and 
 highly cultivated land ; while broad bands of steril coun- 
 try, at intervals, marked the path of the ancient lavas. 
 
 In Yautepec, we found a town of considerable size, 
 situated upon a stream of pure water, enjoying a very 
 salubrious climate. It is imbosomed in groves of lemon 
 and orange, and has claims to great picturesque beauty, 
 both in general situation and detai's. It was a fair-day, 
 and the principal plaza was crowded to suffocation with 
 one of the most entertaining assemblages you can con- 
 ceive — chaffering with might and main under the glow- 
 ing beams of the noonday sun. 
 
 By the arriero's faithfulness and Garcia's good man- 
 agement — for though a knave, he was not a fool — we 
 found our mules and their cargoes safe, and our quarters 
 
CUAUTLA AMILPAS. 193 
 
 prepared in the house of the alcalde, who received and 
 entertained us hospitably, during the hours of our stay. 
 That functionary is obliged, by the laws of the land, to 
 provide a lodging for strangers applying to him for accom- 
 modation, in case that there is no regular inn. Excellent 
 watermelons and ice were to be had \n abundance. 
 
 As time was not to be trifled wit^h, we were con- 
 strained, however, after the greatest heat of the day was 
 spent, to remount our horses, and pursue our route to the 
 town of Cuautla Amilpas, at four leagues distance. The 
 road, for the greater part, runs over the fertile portions 
 of the plain, and passes many noble sugar haciendas, 
 each with its dwelling house, refinery, crushing mill, and 
 other offices, built in the most substantial style, and almost 
 always adorned by a church, with dome and tower. They 
 rank, in value, fertility, and good cultivation by free la- 
 bour, among the first in New Spain. 
 
 About sunset, when within a league of Cuautla Amii- 
 pas, our line being a very straggling one, three of us, at- 
 tended by Garcia, made a wrong turn, and went off 
 across a huge unbroken level, towards the base of Popo- 
 catepetl ; doubling our distance, and adding greatly to 
 the fatigues of the day. We however agreed that the 
 view we had hereby gained of the great volcano, rising, 
 without any neighbour or rival, to the height of fourteen 
 thousand feet perpendicular above the plateau on which 
 we stood, with the red glow of the sunset upon his snowy 
 summit, amply repaid us for the fatigue and vexation. 
 
 It was dark before we entered the posada, in which we 
 found that M'Euen and the mules had with difficulty ef- 
 fected a lodgment. Indeed, it was not till our arrival 
 that a misunderstanding with the revenue officers was 
 satisfactorily explained, and our party felt at liberty to 
 prepare for rest and refreshment. How far that which 
 followed merited that character you shall judge. 
 
 Cuautla Amilpas, like the town of Yautepec, is situated 
 upon one of the more considerable branches of either the 
 Rio de las Balsas or the river Mescala, whose channels 
 carry off to the Pacific all the waters flowing from the 
 southern slopes of the table land of Mexico. 
 
194 CUAUTLA AMILPAS. 
 
 We were disappointed in the general appearance of 
 the town, which may, nevertheless, be termed the Sara- 
 gossa of New Spain, from the circumstances attending 
 its pertinacious defence in the war of the revokuion, 
 when the famishing inhabitants, under the command ojf 
 Morelos, withstood the concentrated forces of the Span- 
 ish general, Calleja, for the space of several months.* 
 
 Though upward of twenty years had since gone by, 
 the hatred of the inhabitants to the Gachupin and the for- 
 eigner seemed scarcely abated ; and we had not long 
 been in the town before we discovered that we, in our 
 general character of Europeans, were to be given to feel 
 it ; and to make experience of the kind of danger wliich 
 stills impends over the foreign traveller in the more un- 
 frequented parts of the country. 
 
 A wordy squabble in a civilized country is a matter of 
 no great moment ; but here, where human life is consid- 
 ered of but little value, and where the cuchilloov knife is 
 instantly produced as the solver of all difficulties, the case 
 is far otherwise. 
 
 * It was after the death of Hidalgo in 1811, that Morelos took the 
 lead, and early in February shut himself up in Cuautia Amilpas, with a 
 body of the insurgents. Calleja advanced from the capital, and made 
 his first attack with great impetuosity on the 1 7th instant. Properly 
 the town is indefensible, and had no other fortification than barricades 
 and intrenchments thrown up in haste. However, the Spaniards were 
 driven back by the fury with which they were confronted by the Mexi- 
 cans, aided by the slings of the Indians from the roofs of the houses. The 
 town was now regularly invested ; and on the 4th of March, the bom- 
 bardment commenced — but the defenders remained firm. An attempt 
 to cut off the supply of water from the town failed ; while a guerilla 
 warfare was carried on by other parties of the insurgents upon the roads 
 in the vicinity, and many of the reinforcements and detachments of the 
 besiegers were cut off. But no succour could be brought to Morelos 
 and his comrades, who soon began to suffer the extremity of famine, to 
 such a degree, that at the end of April, a cat sold for six dollars, a lizard 
 for two, and rats, and such vermin, for one. The object of Morelos was 
 to protract the siege till the rainy season should commence, when it was 
 to be supposed that sickness would force the besiegers to abandon the 
 blockade. 
 
 The extremity to which he was reduced obliged him ultimately to 
 abandon the defence ; and this he did by departing secretly in the night 
 3f the 2d or 3d of May, without detection : and in two days he reached 
 ihe town of Izucar, with the loss of but seventeen of his men. — See 
 .Yard's Mexico. 
 
CUAUTLA AMILPAS. 195 
 
 Like the generality of posadas, that in which we had 
 hired our two chambers was disposed in the form of a 
 hollow square, of which three sides were occupied by 
 the lodging rooms and stables, and the fourth opened into 
 a kind of paddock. The whole was surrounded by a 
 wall ; and a large gate formed the only mode of commu- 
 nication with the street. 
 
 Don Juan, the master, was soon discovered to be a 
 churl, who, for some reason or other, had determined not 
 to give a civil answer to any question or any request we 
 made of him. Indeed insult and abuse were not spared. 
 Dona Dolores, his wife, and her female assistants, were 
 also evidently disposed, as far as was in their power, to 
 fall in with his humour ; and, far from performing the cus- 
 tomary offices for the traveller, in the hope of good pay- 
 ment, answered our request for food by jeering us, and 
 pointing to the door. They woul^ give us nothing, not 
 even a glass of water. 
 
 Our arriero and valets did not disguise their opinion 
 that we had fallen into bad hands ; but the mules were 
 unloaded— it was already dark — and altogether too late 
 to seek another lodging. 
 
 After an hour of patient endurance, two of us sallied 
 forth on the scout; and purchasing a pileof tortillas, and 
 a basin of frijoles, with sundry other nondescript eatables, 
 from the poor Indian women who occupied a corner of 
 the market place, returned with them to our companions. 
 The necessary information with reference to our route 
 for the morrow, towards Zacualpam Amilpas, and Cho- 
 lula, was with difficulty picked up in the shops which 
 we entered to make trifling purchases. 
 
 Shortly after our return to our inhospitable quarters, 
 Don Juan, who seemed to be really possessed by a dia- 
 bolical spirit, and unable either to rest or to leave others 
 in repose, hit upon a method to provoke us to take a 
 more active part than hitherto in the quarrels which had 
 been incessant between his family and our servants, from 
 the hour of our arrival. At eight o'clock he locked the 
 gate of the posada, and refused the liberty of exit to any 
 of the party, stating that such was the order of the 
 
196 CUAUTLA AMILPAS. 
 
 alcalde. To the alcalde, then, we insisted upon going, 
 to ascertain if such an order existed, and if so, to procure 
 a dispensation ; as, unless our preparations of departure 
 were completed now, we should be liable to detention 
 on the morrow, when we ought to be travelling. This 
 could not be refused, the door was opened, and three of 
 us sallied forth, under the threat that we should sleep in 
 the streets, for that none of us should re-enter. Accord- 
 ingly the door was slammed at our backs, and locked, 
 amid a volley of abuse and ribaldry from the house- 
 hold. 
 
 I must say, that we felt justly irritated ; as, far from 
 provoking this treatment, we had borne the previous 
 churlishness with equanimity, both of temper and man- 
 ner ; and had given good words in exchange for bad. 
 
 We soon found the house of the alcalde. After much 
 knocking, the door was opened, and we demanded to 
 see his honour. After five minutes' delay, we were 
 cautiously admitted into a small apartment. Five min- 
 utes again elapsed ; w-hen the magistrate, a sleepy^ 
 heavily built, good-natured man, made his appearance, 
 half dressed, having already been in bed. We told our 
 case, and satisfied him as to our being honest and re- 
 sponsible personages. He immediately denied that he 
 had given the order complained of; but said that the 
 number of banditti in the country had given rise to one, 
 according to which, no armed parties should be let into 
 the town after nine o^clock, without an order from him, 
 but which, of course, was in nowise applicable to us. 
 He offered to send a verbal message to Don Juan, our 
 ungracious host, to desire that he would put no impedi- 
 ments in our way, but let us have free ingress and egress 
 night and day : but this would not serve our purpose ; 
 and, in fine, after much talk, we persuaded him to give 
 us a written document to the same purport. He was 
 extremely civil, and at parting complained grievously of 
 the responsibilities and toils of his post. 
 
 Thus furnished, we returned to the posada. The 
 door was of course fast ; and upon knocking, we were 
 challenged by Don Juan : " Who ive were V " What 
 we were making a noise at the door for ?" " Did we not 
 
CUAUTLA AMILPAS. 197 
 
 Inow the order V and so forth, mingled with threats to 
 call the town guard, and give us lodgings in the town 
 prison. To all this we could only reply by a fresh sum- 
 mons, enforced by a general thump of our sabre hilts at 
 the gate, and a chorus of " Will your grace open the 
 door ? — an order from the alc(Ade T I'here was really 
 something extremely dramatic in the whole scene. 
 Open the door he would not, pretending to believe that 
 we were a party of thieves freshly arrived, instead of 
 honest old acquaintances. At length he told us to thrust 
 the letter under the planks, which we did. It took him 
 a long time to spell, which, by-the-by, I do not wonder at, 
 as his honour, the sleepy alcalde, had contrived to write 
 it in a most illegible hand. Every now and then Don 
 Juan called to us, " Don't he in a hurry ! a little patience, 
 a little patience, signores P' which of course did not add 
 to our store. At length the door opened, and one by 
 one in we marched ; when, foaming with passion, he in- 
 stantly relocked it, and swore stoutly that not a soul 
 should leave the posada again that night. 
 
 A quarrel was now unavoidable, and it soon arose to 
 a storm. Two or three drunken travellers joined in it, 
 most inopportunely ; and threats of violence against us, 
 as Europeans, began to be heard. Dona Dolores rushed 
 into the fray, confronting Garcia, who was unfortunately 
 pot valiant, with the most opprobrious language and 
 gestures. Her apparition threw oil upon the fire, and 
 Don Juan, without more ado, ran into the house, and 
 came back armed with a long cut and thrust sword called 
 a machete^ while we, as a matter of necessity— for I may 
 say that all along we acted on the defensive — had now 
 to produce our pistols. The gate was thrown open by 
 the women ; the town guards and some of the neighbours 
 rushed in, and without inquiry into the merits of the case, 
 or the origin of the hubbub, immediately ranged them- 
 selves on Vhe side of our opponents, with a violence which 
 showed us we had no justice to hope from their inter- 
 vention. Sabres were drawn, and pistols were cocked, 
 and there was a moment when a bloody fray seemed 
 inevitable. 
 
 ii2 
 
198 CUAUTLA AMILPAS. 
 
 The probable consequences flashed upon my minclj 
 and doubtless upon those of my companions. Having 
 done what we could to avoid the quarrel, we were now, 
 as men will be v/hen urged to desperation, one and all, 
 fully determined to sell our lives dear ; for — though I 
 cannot doubt, even outnumbered as we were, that the 
 superiority of our weapons would have enabled us to 
 clear the courtyard of our adversaries in the first in- 
 stance — we could not fail to have been ultimately over- 
 powered and massacred, such was the spirit of detesta- 
 tion to our persons which now blazed forth without 
 disguise, in the menaces of our opponents. As to law 
 and justice, name them not ! I have since shuddered to 
 think how many lives hung upon the lifting of a single 
 arm, and the striking of a single blow ; and we all owned, 
 the following morning, when riding out of the town, that 
 to God's providence alone we could ascribe the fact that 
 we were enabled to do so in peace and safety. 
 
 The flight of Dona Dolores, which followed the entry 
 of the guard, and the preparations for fight, was by no 
 means a disadvantage, for she was the main cause of the 
 affray having taken this serious aspect; and as neither 
 party seemed inclined to strike the first blow, a little 
 time was gained for reflection, which terminated with 
 the gradual retirement of our principal foes ; their exam- 
 pie was followed by the guard, after a rude denial of 
 our right to bear arms, and an attempt to compel their 
 being given up, which I need not say was unsuccessful. 
 As to the order of the poor old alcalde, they laughed it 
 to scorn 1 
 
 When the intruders had retired, the gates were again 
 shut, and each party slunk to their quarters. We had 
 for some time abundant proofs that the quarrel was nei- 
 ther forgotten nor forgiven ; and though we slept as 
 usual, we may be excused for having made arrangements 
 for instant self-defence, should it have been necessary; 
 and we neither undressed nor disarmed. To have shut 
 the door, and thus to have made a citadel of our quarter^ 
 would, as there was no window, have been to turn it into 
 *' a black hole." 
 
2ACUALPAM AMILPAS. 199 
 
 Our preparations for an early start were seconded 
 with such good will by our people, that soon after day- 
 break the whole party was ready to march. Neither 
 Don Juan nor Dona Dolores made their appearance ; 
 but using a valet as a cat's paw, they received their pay- 
 ment, and graciously wishing us " Bueno Viaggio !" 
 opened the gate for our welcome departure. 
 
 Such is the souvenir winch we have brought away 
 from our visit to the patriotic Cuautla Amilpas. 
 
 Our next halting place was the town of Zacualpam 
 Amilpasj which we reached after seven hours' ride to 
 the eastward, over a very rough line of open country, 
 sweeping up towards the base of Popocatepetl, which 
 we were gradually approaching and rounding. 
 
 Zacualpam Amilpas vies with Cuernacava and Yau- 
 tepec, in beauty of situation, and in the luxuriance of the 
 cultivation in the immediate vicinity. The plain in 
 which it lies has a general level of about five thousand 
 feet above the sea. Immense perpendicular masses of 
 trachite rise from its bosom, and form isolated hills of 
 very considerable elevation. The Great Volcano bore 
 now almost due north of us, at the distance of perhaps 
 ten leagues. 
 
 Here we had previously the intention of spending a 
 few days with two of the gentlemen of the diplomatic 
 corps from Mexico, who had preceded us hither, with 
 the ultimate intention of attempting the ascent of Popo- 
 catepetl ; but under the present uncertainty when the 
 packet would sail, we had no alternative but to proceed 
 without delay— and therefore, in the course of the eve- 
 ning, after parting from Mr. E., who had proved himself a 
 useful and agreeable companion, and a good man and 
 true, in the hour of peril, we hired a guide to direct us 
 on our road to Cholula, and resumed our pilgrimage. 
 Four leagues of very rugged upland road, over hill and 
 barrancas, brought us after dusk to the Indian village of 
 San Mateo, situated among the mountains directly under 
 Popocatepetl. 
 
 The whole ride, that immense cone, rising in unclouded 
 majesty directly over against us, had been the principal 
 
200 BASE OF POPOCATEPETL. 
 
 object of our attention. It appeared based upon a con- 
 fused chaos of hills and mountains, composed in a great 
 measure of volcanic substances, which had either been 
 ejected from the principal crater, when in violent erup- 
 tion, or which had found a vent on its flank, or at its 
 feet. 
 
 On this side, the limit of the snow was considerably 
 higher than on the other, as seen from Mexico. Heavy 
 forests of pine clothed the lower division, and a strag- 
 gling vegetation might be detected, perhaps to the height 
 of thirteen thousand feet or upward. Above that, a 
 zone of dark barrancas and rocks, intermixed with slopes 
 of black volcanic sand, rises far towards the region of 
 perpetual snow. A high and remarkable rock called 
 the Pico del Frayle, or the Monk, breaks the general 
 outline of the cone upon the southwestern slope. The 
 great f^itigue attendant upon the ascent of the superior 
 part of the volcano, where the adventurer has not only 
 to struggle with the faithless nature of the footing, but 
 with the serious inconveniences attendant upon the ex- 
 treme rarity of the atmosphere, may be conceived ; and 
 to these, the failure of many attempts made by Euro- 
 peans of late years, to reach the crater, has to be as- 
 cribed. I have seen those who boast of their success, 
 but unfortunately, have not met with one who was suf- 
 ficiently alive on his gaining the summit to enable him 
 to convey to others the slightest idea of what he had be- 
 held. 
 
 Since the earlier years of this century, the signs of 
 combustion in this volcano have been so slight, as to be 
 scarcely noticed. It was, however, said at Zacualpam 
 Amilpas, that smoke had been seen to rise from it occa- 
 sionally during the past month. 
 
 In spite of the most careful observation bestowed upon 
 every part of the snowy summit this evening, and during 
 the morning of the 24th, when we coHtinued to round 
 the base, I could not with any certainty detect anything 
 of the kind. The utmost that I could possibly assert, 
 was, that I observed that the outline of certain rocks 
 lining a deep crevice, a little below the summit, was 
 uniformly extremely faint, indistinct, and vaporous. 
 
BASE OF POPOCATEPETL. 201 
 
 while every other part of the outline was perfectly clear 
 and well defined. 
 
 I have mentioned elsewhere, that Diego Ordaz, one 
 of the officers of Cortez, made an attempt to reach the 
 crater, on their first advance to the capital. He was, 
 however, forced to leave his hardy project unachieved, 
 the mountain being in a state of actual combustion. He 
 must have been a bold adventurer, for in those days, a 
 volcano in eruption was not considered a thing to play 
 with, by crowds of well-dressed gentlemen and ladies, 
 as in the present age. 
 
 I have elsewhere given the height of Popocatepetl, 
 as determined by Humboldt and Bonpland, at 17,884 
 feet.* 
 
 At San Mateo, we were courteously received and 
 entertained by the simple Indian inhabitants, under the 
 authority of their alcalde, an old man, speaking no 
 language but that of his race. We were lodged in a 
 
 * It may interest the reader to know that four days after our visit the 
 ascent to the volcano was effected by the gentlemen above named. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th of April, Baron Gros, M. de Gerolt, and 
 Mr Egerton, set out from Zacualpam Amilpas, and reached Ozumba 
 on the afternoon of that day. Here they procured guides from the 
 village of Alautia, and commenced the ascent the following morning, 
 reaching the Vaqueria, a chalet which is the highest point inhabited, at 
 one P.M. At three p.m., after passing through a zone of noble oaks, 
 lirs, and larch, they attained the limit of vegetation. Here, at about one 
 third of the ascent, commence tracts of deep purple sand, strewed with 
 blocks of porphyry. They spent the night just within the shelter of the 
 dwarf forest, Fahrenheit's thermometer standing at fifty degrees. 
 
 On the 2yth, at three a.m., they resumed the climb in the moonhght, 
 with three guides and Mr. E's servant, proceeding in a zigzag up the 
 sand. At nine they reached the Pico del Frayle, a pile of red rocks, of 
 about a hundred feet in perpendicular elevation. Here the Indian 
 guides abandoned the enterprise. Thus far the way had been fatiguing, 
 but not dangerous. After one hour's rest they proceeded, finding the 
 ascent much more difficult, till they reached the snow line. At this 
 time all suffered severely from the rarity of the air. M. de G. finally 
 reached the highest point at half past two, and his companions scon fol- 
 lowed. They describe the crater to form an abyss of a circular form, and 
 three miles in circumference, with perhaps a depth of a thousand feet. 
 There is a break towards the east. The side walls are perpendicular. 
 Vapours rise from several orifices, but rarely reach the edge of the 
 crater. Hei-e the adventurers staid one hour, and then, at five p.m., 
 descending, reached their halting place in the wood. The following 
 day, the 30th of April, they returned to the foot of the mountain. Thej 
 state distinctly that Iztaccihuatl exhibits no signs of a crater* 
 
203 ATLISCO. 
 
 shed, which served at once for chapel and courthouse, 
 and were extremely amused by a visit of ceremony 
 which the chief magistrate paid us in the course of tht' 
 evening, bearing a silver stick as badge of office, and 
 attended by a posse of half-naked subalterns. After 
 five minutes spent in nodding and smoking with his 
 guests like the best friends in the world, he departed 
 and left us to our repose ; with the bright moonlight 
 glistening upon the snow of the volcano, and the clari- 
 net and banjo of the Indians sounding in our ears. 
 But what sight or sounds can keep the weary traveller 
 from his rest ? 
 
 The following morning we continued our rapid jour- 
 ney to the east and northeast, over an open country, 
 to Atlisco, a large town situated at the foot of an acute 
 conical hill of considerable elevation, which rises from 
 the level bosom of the surrounding country. Besides 
 the chapel on its summit, Atlisco boasts no fewer than 
 seven or eight churches. Here we halted only two 
 hours ; and then trotted onward, hoping to reach Cho- 
 lula, five leagues distant, at an early hour. The coun- 
 try over which we passed was in very bad repute for 
 the robberies upon it — but here, as elsewhere, we ex- 
 perienced no interruption, though the numerous crosses 
 by the roadside proved the truth of the report. 
 
 Long before sunset, we came in sight of the plains of 
 Cholula, and of La Puebla de los Angeles. Their surface 
 is broken by many moinids, natural and artificial ; and 
 among these, the celebrated Teocalli of Cholula, with 
 the white church upon its platform, soon became dis- 
 tinguished, and gave a spur to our movements. But 
 our animals were jaded with the heat and stony roads ; 
 and the last sunbeams were shining on the facade of 
 the Church of Neustra Seiiora de los Remedies above 
 us, as we entered the town. 
 
 Night speedily followed ; and as my paper is full, I 
 will begin another letter with the history of another 
 day. 
 
CHOLULA. 203 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 The ancient city of Cholula lies on a broad plain, 
 extending to the base of the chains in advance of the 
 Great Nevadas, and at an elevation of sixjhousand five 
 hundred feet above the sea. 
 
 Situated some miles to the south of the great road 
 between the large Spanish-built city of Puebla de los 
 Ano^eles and the capital, it is comparatively seldom 
 visited. To the north, beyond the barren but beauti- 
 fully formed Sierra Malinche, lies the territory of 
 Tlascala, whose republican inhabitants, spurred on by 
 their hatred to the Mexican yoke, acted such an impor- 
 tant part in the history of the conquest, as the allies of 
 Cortez. 
 
 Cholula was the sacred city of the Mexican empire, 
 and at the time of the Spanish invasion numbered a 
 population within its precincts, to which the few thou- 
 sands v^ho now occupy a small portion of its ancient 
 site are but a fraction. If we are rightly informed, its 
 decay is far from having reached its term, and this may 
 be easily accounted for by the vicinity of the city of 
 Puebla, which has sprung up within a few leagues to 
 the eastward. The principal square is very spacious, 
 and there are many large churches ; but we found little 
 in the city worthy of withholding our attention, during 
 the brief hours of our halt from the main object of our 
 visit, which it is hardly necessary to tell you was the 
 celebrated pyramid. 
 
 This vast mound, in spite of the waste of centuries, 
 which has destroyed the regularity of its form, rounded 
 and broken down its angles, confounded its terraces, and 
 given it the air of a shapeless mass of earth, is still a 
 marvel and a wonder in the land, and will probably re- 
 main so to the end of time. 
 
204 CHOLULA. 
 
 It stands to the east of the present city, upon a base 
 of one thousand four hundred and twenty-five feet square ; 
 and originally consisted of four stages, terminating in a 
 platform, one hundred and seventy-seven feet above the 
 plain. 
 
 It is now very difficult to trace the several proportions 
 among the slopes and brushwood, and the heaps of 
 crumbling brickwork with which its acclivity is covered. 
 
 As soon as the sun was up we passed through the out- 
 skirts of the city, and round the foot of several elevated 
 mounds, evidently artificial in their origin, towards the 
 base of the teocalli. A little in advance are two enor- 
 mous masses of earth, displaying in their perpendicular 
 sides the regular courses of unburnt brick and clay, of 
 which they, as well as the principal pyramid, are wholly 
 constructed. A sloping road of modern formation leads 
 over the three lower divisions of the great pyramid to the 
 level of the third terrace, when you are conducted by a 
 flight of stone steps to the principal platform, upon which 
 the church with two towers and a dome has replaced the 
 ancient erection raised here by the Aztecs or their pre- 
 decessors, to the worship of their principal divinity, Quet- 
 zalcoatl. 
 
 The area of the platform, according to a former trav- 
 eller, measures three thousand four hundred square yards. 
 Its sides are well faced with stone, and thus preserved ; 
 yet the waste of the soil has been so considerable on the 
 eastern side, that the building is there wholly supported 
 upon arches. 
 
 Two large evergreen cypresses and a massive cross 
 stand before the pruicipal entrance of the church. Many 
 groups of trees, principally *' schinus,'" are scattered over 
 the surface of the pyramid, and the view from the plat- 
 form, though not to be compared with those in the vicin- 
 ity of the capital for beauty, is of vast extent and great 
 interest, and includes the three great Nevadas of Mex- 
 ico — Popocatepetl, Iztaccihuatl, and Orizava, with their 
 advanced chains. 
 
 How far the vulgar tradition that the great pyramid of 
 Cholula is hollow may be borne out by the fact, it is 
 
CHOLULA. 205 
 
 impossible to say. One chamber was discovered some 
 yenrs ago in the lower story, in consequence of the road 
 to Puebia having been cut through it ; and two human 
 skeletons, with a number of idols in basalt, and some 
 painted vases, were brought to liglit. This chamber, 
 which was faced with stone and supported with cypress 
 beams, proved to have no connection with the exterior ; 
 and the main mass of the teocalli has, as yet, remained 
 untouched. In the same manner as 1 have described at 
 San Juan Teotihuacan, the great pyramid of Cholula was 
 surrounded by many inferior erections of the same char- 
 acter, though lam not aware what was their precise ar- 
 rangements. The ruins of many are seen from the sum- 
 mit ; and doubtless divers of those isolated mounds which 
 break the uniformity of the great level in the vicinity for 
 many miles round have a similar origin. 
 
 The pyramid of Cholula, with those of San Juan Teo- 
 tihuacan and Papantla, were found by the Aztecs in Ana- 
 huac, upon their first arrival in that country. Indeed 
 the city of Cholula, the " holy city," was still peopled by 
 such of the Toltec race as had maintained their po- 
 sition on the Mexican table land after the dispersion of 
 their tribe, as related in a former letter ; and its pyramid 
 is supposed to be more ancient than any other in New 
 Spain, 
 
 After the model of these, the Aztecs built their great 
 temples in their capital and elsewhere. 
 
 I have elsewhere hinted at the probable identity be- 
 tween QuetzalcoatI, who was here worshipped as the 
 '* god of the air," with the patriarch Noah ; and also the 
 supposition that the original purpose with which this pyra- 
 midal structure was raised, v^^as one and the same with 
 that which is known to have given rise to those of Asia. 
 To QuetzalcoatI, all the ancient tribes of Anahuac at- 
 tributed their knowledge of melting metals — their rites 
 and ceremonies of religion — and their arrangement of 
 time. 
 
 But He, who was at once king, priest, and lawgiver — 
 •* born of a virgin" — the " precious stone of suffering and 
 
 s 
 
206 ': CHOLULA. 
 
 sacrifice" — whose disappearance is recorded, and return 
 to earth so clearly expected by the Mexicans, has well 
 been termed the " most mysterious and inexplicable per- 
 sonage in the Mexican mythology ;" and the mind be- 
 comes perfectly bewildered in attempting to glean proba- 
 bilities from the scattered traditions concerning his his- 
 tory, or to reconcile his various attributes. 
 
 La Puebla, to which we repaired in the course of the 
 morning, has been called the City of Angels, from the 
 legend which records the assistance given by those beings 
 in the construction of the cathedral. It may with much 
 more reason be termed the " City of Bigots," for in no part 
 of Mexico is hatred against those of another faith so un- 
 disguised, as the stones hurled against many a European 
 traveller testify. And, if an anecdote which was related 
 me in the capital was true, it would seem that even the 
 irresponsible hide of a brute beast might not shield it 
 from lapidation, if the owner was known to have been 
 bred and nurtured without the pale of the church. 
 
 Some time since two English dray horses were pro- 
 cured by a European resident in Mexico, and unshipped 
 at Vera Cruz ; colossal, big-boned, muscular animals, 
 compared with which the Mexican breed were but shel- 
 ties. They may have found their long voyage disagree- 
 able, but they were doomed to find their land journey 
 to the capital yet more so. Wherever they passed, 
 there was a perfect ferment among the populace. The 
 heretical horses! — there was no possibility of smuggling 
 them through the country, or of concealing their unfortu- 
 nate lineage. They were everywhere regarded with 
 detestation. They and their grooms were loaded with 
 maledictions at Vera Cruz — pelted at Jalapa — execrated 
 and pelted at Perote — execrated, pelted, and stoned, with 
 might and main, at La Puebla de los Angeles — and 
 hardly escaped with their lives, to be repelted and re- 
 stoned on their arrival at their journey's end. There, 
 however, they arrived ; but for any use they were to the 
 possessor, they might as well have been peaceably em- 
 ployed in starting casks in London among their fellow 
 heretics, biped and quadruped ; for they had to be con- 
 
LA PUEBLA. 207 
 
 fined to their stable morning, noon, and night — such was 
 the tumult excited by their appearance and character. 
 At length the possessor was fairly driven to bow to popu- 
 lar opinion. 
 
 There is a certain church in Mexico, of which I have 
 omitted to note down the patron saint, but I know that 
 you leave it a little to the left hand as you approach the 
 garita on the road to San Augustin. To this church, 
 from time immemorial, it has been the custom of the 
 country, for the inhabitants of the city and adjoining val- 
 ley to bring their domestic animals for baptism by the 
 hands of the priest ; the popular belief being, that till 
 this is done, they do not belong to the Catholic church, 
 and cannot possibly prosper. 
 
 And here, at the proper time, in company with many 
 animals of less pretension, came the two English dray 
 horses. They were regularly sprinkled, the fee was paid 
 to the cura, and from that time, being considered as 
 Christianos, they were allowed to hold up their heads 
 and perform their labours without molestation ! 
 
 Our stay at La Piiebla was, as you may suppose, very 
 hurried, as we here found the report that the packet 
 really sailed on the first instant fully confirmed. My 
 sketch, therefore, like my survey, must be hasty and 
 brief. The city is large, and regularly and handsomely 
 built, with a population estimated at 60,000 souls ; and 
 the traveller sees much to remind him of the capital. It 
 was founded three centuries ago, by the Spaniards. A 
 hill clothed with wood rises to the north ; and the plain 
 in its immediate vicinity is well cultivated, and produces 
 a vast quantity of wheat and maize. In adornment and 
 arrangement the houses resemble those of Mexico in 
 every particular. Sixty-nine churches, many of them 
 richly endowed, many monasteries, nunneries, and col- 
 leges, prove the sanctity of the city and the piety of the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 The cathedral is the most splendid and richest struc- 
 ture in New Spain, superior to that of the capital in the 
 beauty of its architecture and for the mass of riches col- 
 lected within its walls. The high altar, throughout its 
 
208 LA PUEBLA. 
 
 gorgeous details, is of almost unrivalled magnificence. 
 Our short stay was sufficient to show us that the mass 
 of the population comprised a considerable number of 
 leperos. 
 
 The city was in a disturbed state ; and it w^as ru- 
 moured that the general feeling was hostile to the pres- 
 ent government, and only awaiting an occasion for a 
 demonstration in favour of the clergy now in disgrace. 
 The bishop, the most energetic and talented man in the 
 country, being personally obnoxious to the members of 
 the present cabinet, which had given orders for his 
 arrest, was at this time in concealment somewhere in 
 the city ; it was whispered in one of the convents. 
 
 As it was our intention to pursue our journey the 
 following morning towards Jalupa, we lost no time in 
 taking the necessary steps. A coach was hired with its 
 train of mules, and an escort of five dragoons obtained 
 for it, by an application to the commandant. As to 
 M'Euen and myself, we stoutly determined to con- 
 tinue our route as hitherto, on horseback, and to trust to 
 our savage appearance, or rather to the keeping of 
 Providence, for escape from the dangers of the road to 
 the coast. 
 
 At daybreak, April 26th, we were en route on the 
 beaten track, and a barren one it was, after quitting the 
 Haciendas de Trigo, or corn estates, in the vicinity of 
 La Puebla, till we reached the swelling hills covered by 
 a pine forest, known by the name of El Pinal. This is 
 one of the most accredited stripping places on the road. 
 
 Here, hardly a month earlier, the diligence from Vera 
 Cruz to the capital was robbed, with the most ludicrous 
 regularity, for weeks together. When stopped, the pas- 
 sengers — who generally contrived to have nothing on 
 their persons that was worth fighting about, and no 
 arms to fight with — were told to alight, and to lie down 
 in a row on their stomachs on the sand, into which their 
 noses were unceremoniously thrust, with threats of in- 
 stant death if they stirred. Their persons and the coach 
 were then thoroughly rifled ; and they were lefi, with 
 the warning, that if any moved or looked up for the 
 
THE PINAL. 209 
 
 space of half an hour, the carbine or the cuchillo should 
 settle matters. After some patience and cautious peep^ 
 ing, they would gather themselves up, shake their ears,, 
 clamber into the diligence, and proceed thankfully on 
 their journey. But as to ourselves, we have no adven- 
 tures to relate. 
 
 During the whole of our morning's ride, the beautiful 
 mountain. La Malinche, lay on our left hand. It is the 
 highest summit between the chain of Orizava and that 
 of the Mexican Nevadas. I have, upon what authority 
 I cannot now recollect, elsewhere termed it the volcano 
 of Tlascala, but though its form would favour the con- 
 clusion, 1 am not prepared to prove that it is such. We 
 made our noonday halt at a village a little beyond the 
 Pinal, after a ride of ten leagues, many of which lay 
 through deep sand. 
 
 And here I took the liberty of prying a little into the 
 character of our doughty escort. It consisted of four 
 privates and a corporal ; and five more inoffensive war- 
 riors never mounted on horseback. Their horses were 
 none of the best, but quite good enough for the purpose. 
 The riders were dressed in a species of uniform, consist- 
 ing of red coats and a black round hat, with a narrow 
 strip of white linen tied round it. Their nether gar- 
 ments were not conformable ; and it was evident their 
 pay and discipline did not extend so far down. " But it 
 is not the dress, after all, that makes the soldier," you 
 may say : true, there are the arms and the valour 1 
 As to the arms, all were furnished with a long lance, 
 with a little green and red penoncelle fluttering at the 
 end, which they carried in proper military fashion — a 
 dangerous weapon if used with determination and dis- 
 cretion. Moreover, all were furnished with carbines 
 and cartridge boxes, and the leader was armed with a 
 sabre with a leather sheath. This was not so much 
 amiss, and would do very well at a distance : but during 
 the two hours' halt at the village aforesaid, I took it into 
 my head, while the owners were enjoying their siesta 
 under the shade of the gateway, just to stride in among 
 them, and take a nearer inspection of the weapons, and 
 
 s2 
 
210 NOPALUCA. 
 
 I furnish you with the following note made at the mo- 
 ment of my scrutiny : — 
 
 " Carbine I. Much worse for wear — no flint and a 
 broken trigger — cannot imagine how it is to be dis- 
 charged. 
 ''Carbine II. Seen much service, no flint, no ramrod. 
 *' Carbine III. Lock broken short off", and otherwise 
 
 damaged. 
 " Carbitje IV. Utterly devoid of all appearance of lock. 
 '* Carbine Y, Furnished with all the outward si^ns ex- 
 cept ramrod ; but from its appearance, doubt very 
 much its efliciency, especially as I have no proof that 
 there is a single cartridge, either in the weapons or 
 in the cartridge boxes." 
 So much for the arming of our escort. Now as to their 
 valour. 
 
 For what purpose were they hired — at the cost of 
 eighteen dollars, to ride by the side of the coach, from 
 La Pueblo to Perote ? To scare away thieves and rob- 
 bers. But if the thieves would not be frightened — 
 to fight? No! such an idea never came into their 
 heads. To light ! — he, he — ha, ha — ho, ho ! — to get, 
 perhaps, a shot from a real carbine, or a slash across the 
 nose — or at least to be lassoed, half strangled, dragged 
 from horseback, and ground to powder, by being hur- 
 ried along the road for a few hundred yards — and all that 
 for only eighteen dollars ! and for the pleasure of their 
 valours, the three heretic dons ? No, the idea is ridicu- 
 lous ! Does it not appear almost such to you ? Se- 
 riously speaking, I believe an escort in Mexico is never 
 expected to fight, not only because I never heard of a 
 well-accredited case af their doina: so, but from the pe- 
 culiar style and character of the arms wherewith they 
 are furtiished. This strange circumstance apart, i 
 must give our dragoons a good character. They gave 
 us no trouble, always stuck to the carriage, spoke not 
 an unnecessary word, and were dismissed at Perote, 
 where ail danger from banditti was supposed to be at 
 an end. 
 
 To resume the notice of our journey. Six leagues 
 
OJO DE AGUA. 211 
 
 of road over the wide undulating surface of the sandy 
 plains brouofht us towards evenirjg at our halting place, 
 Ojo de Agua ; a posada built at a spot where a clear 
 and abundant stream issues forth from the foot of a 
 mass of volcanic matter, and forms a green oasis in the 
 middle of the desert. Till the afternoon of this day, 
 we had been unable to catch a glimpse of the great 
 cone of Orizava, towards the northern extremity of 
 whose chain we were gradually approaching. The 
 weather had been dull and hazy ever since we reached 
 Cholula, whence we should otherwise have been able 
 to descry it. Now, as we trotted slowly over the plains, 
 our eyes were busily engaged in searching amor)g the 
 shifting layers of ligfit cloud which rose above the dis- 
 tant horizon, for some indication of his presence. One 
 bright spot after another was the production of much 
 speculation and ultimate disappointment; at length, 
 about two hours before we reached our resting place, 
 we became unanimous in believing that a certain in- 
 distinct whitish mass, high up in the smoky atmosphere, 
 formless and vague as it was, could be no other than 
 the object of which we were in search ; and true 
 enough, as the sun went down behind us, and the air 
 cleared, we saw it become brighter and brighter ; and, 
 in fine, shaking aside its veil, the colossal cone stood 
 before us in majesty, at the limit of the table land over 
 which it soared to the perpendicular height of ten 
 thousand feet. 
 
 As we proceeded over the almost interminable plains 
 the following day to Perote, it stood revealed in all its 
 sublimity, as well as the whole of the chain with which 
 it is connected. This range is terminated to the north 
 by the extinct volcano called the Coffre de Perote. A 
 sudden change in the air about noon, which we were 
 all sensible of, was immediately recognised as indi- 
 catino; a norte on the coast. At Perote we arrived to- 
 wards evening, after halting for two hours in the vi- 
 cinity of an isolated volcanic mass, called the Cerro de 
 Pizarro. 
 
 Perote is a small decayed town, with a fort, or rather 
 a depot, in the vicinity, situated at the height of 7691 
 
312 PEROTE. 
 
 feet above the gulf, near the eastern limit of the table 
 land. An early march of a few hours the followmg 
 morning brought us to the crest of the Pass, to the 
 nortfi of the CofFre de Perote, and to the commence- 
 ment of the great descent to the coast. 
 
 Our journey thus far from Perote had been rather 
 barren of interest, but upon gaining the elevated alpine 
 village of Las Vigas, it was far otherwise. The sandy 
 route now gave place to a steep Calzada, over which 
 the unwieldy coach came lumbering down, with many 
 a jog and many a jolt, to the great discomfort of the 
 occupant, and the apparent peril of the train of mules. 
 The upper part of the road crosses the flanks of the 
 CofFre de Perote, a mountain so called, from a square, 
 chest-shaped eminence which crowns its long ridge, 
 and contains the crater of a volcano, which, however 
 long dormant, must once have been the vent of tremen- 
 dous eruptions, judging by the signs scattered over the 
 neio;hbouring country. Las Vigas lies at the height of 
 7820 feet above the Qfulf, and consequently within the 
 limit of the tierras frias. The forests in the vicinity 
 are chiefly pine. At this elevation we were enveloped 
 in cold driving mist, worthy of the Alps ; and though 
 its partial clearance before we descended to Jalapa, 
 three thousand five hundred feet lower, gave us many 
 a glimpse of the magnificent scenery around, yet it 
 must be conceded, that we lost much by not having a 
 brighter and less clouded view. Some distance below 
 Las Vigas, we entered upon r pedrio^al covered with 
 scanty vegetation ; and we continued for many miles 
 to descend over slopes covered to a great depth by vol- 
 canic deposits ; here thick beds of black cinders and 
 scoria, coating the rock with a thick stratum, and lying 
 just as they had rained from the heavens ; there floods 
 of black lava, hard as adamant, and yet bearing upon 
 their unequal surface abundant signs of the liquid 
 state in which they had poured down from the moun- 
 tains above. As usual, the surface of the lava was 
 never smooth, even in places where it had met with 
 the least obstruction, but displayed an infinity of sharp 
 wrinkles overlapping each other, or^ rather, I should 
 
DESCENT TO JALAPA. 213 
 
 say, shooting from under the other. In parts of the 
 country where rocks, or inequalities of the oriu^inal 
 surface, had interposed impediments to the gentle flow 
 of the volcanic matter, the scene of confusion was truly 
 terrific. Here, the surface would be heaped with 
 huge blocks of solid rock, hundreds of tons in weight, 
 masses which had evidently once floated hke corks 
 upon the irresistible flood ; and their black rifts and 
 yawning caverns would mark the struggles of tlie fluid, 
 as it pitched down some mountain steep to a lower 
 level. 
 
 We halted for breakfast at a hamlet situated in the very 
 centre of this volcanic matter, and afterward resumed 
 the sharp descent. Below the lavas, the forests became 
 more luxuriant, teeming with curious trees and shrubs; 
 and the views far more open. Judging from what we 
 saw, they must be of a most splendid description, and 
 that epithet may be worthily bestowed upon the situation 
 of the city of Jalapa, where we arrived at two o'clock in 
 the afternoon, having left Perote at four a.m. The 
 change from the sterility of the table land above to the 
 luxuriant and teeming vegetation of this lovely region^ 
 was more striking than the contrast between the char- 
 acteristic features of the great level plains with their bar- 
 ren volcanic cones, to the varied and beautiful wooded 
 hills, vales, and mountains, which characterize this most 
 lovely region of New Spain. 
 
 You and others have asked me, what comparison can 
 be drawn between the Alps of Europe and the Cordil- 
 lera? I was going to say none, but the traveller must 
 learn not to be rash. The lines of just comparison are 
 very faint. The highest summits are covered with snow; 
 the green swelling mountain and pastures of the middle 
 region have a general resemblance with the lower Alps 
 of Switzerland, in their outlines and colouring, though 
 hardly in their climate ; and there is something in the 
 general features of the upland vales of the Cordillera, 
 where they break down towards the coast, which puts 
 you in mind of the scenery of those magnificent valleys, 
 where the icy streams of the great southern chain of the 
 Alps precipitate themselves towards the sunny plains of 
 
214 THE ALPS AND THE CORDILLERA. 
 
 Italy, and carry far down into the clime of the vine and 
 chestnut, the debris of the inhospitable regions of bare 
 rock and snow. 
 
 But as to those details, which you would take as chiefly 
 characteristic of either chain, no similarity whatever can 
 be established. 
 
 In the hmestone, slate, and sfranitic ranges of the Alps, 
 beauty of outhne is far from being confined to any single 
 ridge. It is an attribute of the secondary, as well as the 
 most elevated ; of the parallel chains, as well as of the 
 diverging mountains, which, like ribs, start out from the 
 great back bone of the continent, and sink gradually to 
 the level of the plains on either hand. Piled, range be- 
 hind range, with deep vales between — with numerous 
 lakes, and clothed up to the very limit of eternal snow, 
 with green or forested slopes — they are eminently pic- 
 turesque ; and the gentle luxuriance of the lower valleys 
 contrasts felicitously with the precipitous rocks and masses 
 of snow which occupy the higher regions. The scale 
 and the structure of the Alps permit the eye to command, 
 in almost every situation, the whole of their varied detail. 
 The enormous extent of the glaciers on the upper plains 
 and acclivities, and the peculiar manner in which they 
 descend towards the valleys, are mainly characteristic of 
 these mountains. 
 
 Now as to general outline, both from what I have seen 
 and have heard with regard to other parts of the Andes, 
 that of the great porphyritic chains of the Cordillera can 
 hardly be said to be generally picturesque. It is scarcely 
 broken enough ; its details are too vast. One enormous 
 wall of mountains rises behind another, each buttressing 
 a broad step of table land, but in general the interval be- 
 tween them is far too great for the eye to command 
 more than one at a time. Here and there, from the 
 general level of the undulating mountain ridge, rises a 
 tremendous cone, with a breadth of base, and an even 
 smoothness of outline, which, at the same time that they 
 proclaim its origin, and add to its sublimity, take from its 
 picturesque beauty. The summit bears its mantle of 
 snow ; but compared with the mass, it is but a cap — not; 
 
JALAPA. 215 
 
 a flowing mantlej with its silver and purple folds and its 
 fringe of ice. 
 
 There are again, for the reason stated, few positions 
 in which your eye will command, at the same time, the 
 rich and gorgeous vegetation of the lower slopes of the 
 Mexican Cordillera, and the sublimity of the superior 
 ranges. The vast sheets of the barren table land are in- 
 terposed, the tierras templadas separate the calientes 
 from the frias. Each has its peculiar characteristics, 
 but they can seldom, if ever, be comprised in one and 
 the same picture. 
 
 You look in vain among all the exuberant forest growth 
 and the giant flora of Mexico, for the sweet cheering 
 freshness of Alpine vegetation ; that luxuriance without 
 rankness, which clothes the lower valleys. 
 
 From this you will see, that where the two chains 
 might be supposed to have points of resemblance, they 
 have little or none. 
 
 Besides that, in the style of its vegetation, both in the 
 torrid and temperate regions, the plains and their pe- 
 culiar characteristics, the prodigious barrancas, the whole 
 series of volcanic phenomena, which prevade the country, 
 from the sands of the coast to the craters of the highest 
 volcanoes, as well as in colouring, the more prominent 
 features of Mexico are so marked and so utterly dif- 
 ferent, that they extinguish the idea of comparison. 
 
 Suppose us now at Jalapa, a picturesque town situ- 
 ated high upon the broken sides of the huge mountain 
 rampart which serves as a base for the great chain of 
 the eastern branch of the Cordilleras. A lovelier sight, 
 and more beautiful scenery, you need not seek in the 
 torrid zone ! Below you, a steep descent leads rapidly 
 down the verdant and fresh slopes, towards the shore of 
 the gulf, which is just visible from the highest parts of 
 the town, at the distance of twenty leagues and upward. 
 Above you rises ridge above ridge, crowned by the 
 Coff're de Perote ; and yet farther to the southward, by 
 the magnificent snow-covered summit of Orizava,* in 
 
 * Height of Orizava, 17,375 feet. 
 
216 ^ JALAPA. 
 
 comparison to whose sublime and majestic stature^ the 
 elevated mountains whicli cluster round its feet appear 
 but as pigmies. To the right and left, extending along 
 the mountains' sides, at the height of between four and 
 five thousand feet above the sea, lies a delicious and sa- 
 lubrious region, covered with magnificent forests, and 
 diversified with some of the most beautiful towns in 
 New Spain ; a country, smiling with an eternal spring, 
 under the kindly influence of the heavy mists and dews, 
 which, rising thus midway up the steep cordillera from 
 the bosom of the gulf, pause here in midair, and promote 
 that rich verdure, w^hich is equally grateful to the inha- 
 bitants of tlie arid and steril table land, or of the fervid 
 sands of the seaboard. 
 
 To this "city of refuge" flies the unacclimated Euro- 
 pean from the port below, as soon as tliat dreaded sick- 
 ness, the vomito prieto, makes its annual appearance 
 within the narrow walls, forgetting the thirst of gain, in 
 sudden solicitude to preserve dear life. To this point, 
 the moment he lands, the panting traveller presses up 
 the steep mountains with might and main ; and blesses 
 God when he feels the fresh air of the mountains, and 
 sees the white walls of the convent of San Francisco 
 crowning the steep: and here the inhabitant of the 
 table land, or the departing stranger, pauses and lingers, 
 ere he descend into the infected tierra caliente, and 
 ventures to inhale the hot and subtile breath of fever and 
 disease. 
 
 Our view of Jalapa was but a glance, but it was one 
 which has left on my mind a delightful impression of 
 beauty ; and I often linger in fancy among its low, red- 
 tiled, broad-eaved habitations, or exuberant gardens, and 
 muse upon the marvellous beauty of its convent-crowned 
 hill, and the freshness of its gushing waters, lakes, and 
 shady woods. 
 
 In architecture, the town aflbrds a delightful example 
 of the old Spanish style, and many of the country seats 
 in the vicinity are delicious retreats. 
 
 The population amounts to thirteen thousand. We 
 here met with the majority of the gentlemen who were 
 
DESCENT TO THE COAST. 217 
 
 lo be our fellow-voyagers in the packet ; and, as the 
 exact hour of sailing was now known, and our departure 
 from Jalapa in company fixed for the evening of the fol- 
 lowing day, our short stay was fully occupied. In fact, 
 far from being a day of repose, as was advisable, it was 
 one of unremitting alacrity of body and mind. 
 
 To dismiss our retainers, to sell our horses and fur- 
 niture, to make ail the dispositions for final departure 
 from the country, entailed upon us more fatigue than 
 you can perhaps imagine. 
 
 But about noon, somehow or other, all was arranged ! 
 The arriero was on his way back to Perote, with the 
 baggage of a party ascending to the capital. Garcia 
 and Jose Maria, neither of whom had the slightest wish 
 to risk their precious lives by advancing a step farther, 
 were remunerated for their services; if not to their 
 hearts' content, far beyond their deservings : and , masters 
 of two of the horses of the train, were at liberty to seek 
 other and equally gullible masters. Poor Pinto had to 
 partake the fate of his comrades, and learn to obey 
 another bridle and another spur, and those perhaps none 
 of the mildest, being sold for less than the cost of his 
 shoes. When I think that he may have found a hard 
 master, I have sometimes regretted that I did not shoot 
 him with my own hand ; for he had been a noble and 
 fleet horse when young, and one of some renown ; and 
 was still active and generous, nolwithslanding his rough 
 coat and wisp of a tail ; and I had insensibly become at- 
 tached to him. We had travelled three months cheerily 
 together, and gone through many strange scenes ; and 
 when I passed my hand over his neck for the last time, 
 I own that I felt a very disagreeable tightness about the 
 lower end of the gullet. I love poor dumb beasts. 
 
 Since our first landing in America, Pourtales and my- 
 self had made trial of almost every imaginable mode of 
 travel and locomotion— carriage, coach, gig, sulky, carry- 
 all, and carry nothing, mud waggon, dearborn, horse, 
 mule, steamboat, steam carriage, goelette, shallop, skiff, 
 wooden canoe, bark canoe, raft, rail, tree stump, the 
 back of an Indian, and what not. We were now to 
 
218 DESCENT TO THE COAST. 
 
 adventure our persons in yet another manner. The 
 Mexican littera is a kind of oblong box, about a foot 
 deep, ttiree feet wide, and six feel long, unfortunately- 
 more frequently shorter than longer. Two long poles 
 passing down and fastened to the sides, project fore and 
 aft, and serve as shafts for two mules, to whose pack 
 saddles the ends are attached by straps. In short, a long 
 box Histead of an upright one, a recumbent and supine 
 position, instead of a sitting one, and two four-footed 
 porters instead of two biped ones, are the main points of 
 difference between the litiera and the sedan chair. It is 
 furnished with a leather awning and cotton curtains, and 
 ordinarily with a well-worn mattress, through which you 
 may feel the rough boards upon which you recline. 
 
 We had heaid the litter described as the most luxu- 
 rious mode of travelling ; and accordingly, each slipped 
 into his independent vehicle, with a feeling of great sat- 
 isfaction. 
 
 We formed a train of ten, wMth a horde of sumpter 
 mules. Each litter, besides its two mules, was furnished 
 with a mounted leader, a driver, and three spare animals, 
 to serve as relays. The price of each, to the coast, was 
 forty dollars. 
 
 So down the deep paved street we clattered, amid the 
 plaudits of the poblanitas from window^ and balcony : 
 we were soon beyond the town, and travelled for- 
 ward for hours through the forests, which gradually 
 chano-ed their character — the oak and his conireners 
 disappearing, and the mimosa taking their place. 
 
 iViight soon closed in ; and when we halted, we found 
 it w^as four o'clock in the morning, and that we had 
 reached the celebrated bridge called by the builders, 
 Puente del Rey ; still later, Puente Imperial ; and now 
 Puente Nacional ; where we were to lie quiet for twelve 
 hours, the heat being such as to forbid advance. We 
 had passed, between walking and sleeping, the villages 
 of Encero and Plan del Rio. 
 
 I was now in some degree authorized to judge of the 
 luxury of the liiter. Pourtales was, it is true, in ecstasy 
 
DESCENT TO THE COAST. 219 
 
 at the bliss of being thus transported from place to place, 
 witli no effort on his part but what was necessary to lie 
 steadily on his back, light another cigarita, or demolish 
 another pineapple or watermelon, with which we had 
 taken care to i'urnish ourselves; and, by-the-by, com- 
 pared to the pineapples of Jalapa, all others are but tur- 
 nips. M'Euen was extremely quiet — probably from 
 there beino; somethino^ in the swint^insj movement of the 
 machine which gave him a foretaste of the coming sor- 
 rows of salt water, from which he always suffered 
 grievously. For myself, I admit that novelty had 
 chiirms for about ten minutes ; when I discovered that 
 my litter wanted in length what it had in breadth. It 
 was at once too broad and too short for me ; and I had, 
 in consequence, to double myself up, both from neces- 
 sity, and to steady myself as it swung from side to side. 
 In addition, a found both dust and heat nearly insupport- 
 able ; during the night especially, when it seemed prob- 
 able, that 1 should be quite dissolved before dawn. 
 Then there was the motion — soothing enough when the 
 ground was even, and the mules well behaved, but ex- 
 tremely disquieting when they were not of one mind, or 
 when they stumbled down one of the sudden pitches 
 which are common upon this mountain road. It some- 
 times appeared inevitable, that I should be shot forth on 
 my feet ; at others, that I and the litter should be 
 dragged in twain ; and long before we came to a halt, 
 I made up my mind, that, " were it not for the honour 
 of the thing," I would much rather have walked. 
 
 This being the state of affairs, it was a great relief to 
 escape from my shell, and take a little rational exercise 
 at Puente del Rey : it is my temper to prefer old names 
 to new ones. The river Antinua, over w'hich this noble 
 causeway and bridge were constructed early in the pres- 
 ent century, is formed of the combined waters of two 
 dashing mountain rivers, which issue from their several 
 glens at this point, and intermingle their streams just 
 above the bridge. The whole scene is very striking, 
 from the massive and, noble character of the bridge and 
 its approaches, contrasted with the savage character of the 
 
220 DESCENT TO THE COAST. 
 
 defile. The acclivities are very steep, rocky, and mostly 
 covered v^ith forest. The elevated promontory between 
 the two forks, forms a commanding, but not a very ten- 
 able position. It is fortified, if that term can apply to 
 the existence of a rude fort, with a few pieces of cannon, 
 without either soldiers or ammunition. It has, however, 
 been frequently squabbled for during the last twenty 
 years. 
 
 A long, sleepy, broiling hot day was passed among 
 the palmetto-thatched cottages of the hamlet near the 
 bridge, which is far from being unpicturesque ; and at 
 five in the evening, we crept into our litters again, and 
 resumed our journey. Barren roads, covered with low 
 bushes, conducted us to Santa Fe, which we reached at 
 two in the morning. Here, for the second time, pursu- 
 ant to the system of caution which terrible experience 
 has inculcated, our line came to a second halt within 
 three leagues of Vera Cruz. At Puente del Rey, we 
 had lost many of the hangers-on of the train ; and here 
 all who were not quite acclimated, or whom necessity 
 did not compel to enter within the infected border, took 
 their leave, as now farther advance would bring us 
 within the influence of the danger. 
 
 At five we set forward again. The level surface of 
 the country became open, sandy, and steril ; and for- 
 bidding beyond all description— without a hut or patch 
 of cultivation — and the scenery glared upon us in a 
 ghastly manner in the white light of the newly risen sun. 
 
 In the course of two hours, escaping from the long 
 ridges of sand with which the lower levels are covered, 
 we arrived upon the hot beach of the gulf, a little to the 
 north of the city. We straightway despatched a mes- 
 senger to the merchant to whom we were recommended, 
 and passing the gate, threaded a few deserted streets, and 
 heedless of anything but escape, alighted at a fonda on 
 the quay. Half of an hour sufficed to transact our busi- 
 ness. Our baggage had not arrived from the capital, and 
 we found we must sail without it. By nine or soon after, 
 on the first of May, we were already on board the New- 
 York packet, then lying in the roadstead— for port it can 
 
VERA CRUZ. *^21 
 
 hardly be called — abreast of the celebrated castle of 
 San Juan de Ulua, and within full view of the sea wall, 
 and the numerous towers, cupolas, and the batteries of 
 the city. Low shores and banks lay on eiiher hand, and 
 the Island of Sacrificios just broke the watery horizon 
 to the east. 
 
 After reading- the above, you will not expect me to 
 say much in description of La Villa ilica del la Vera 
 Crnz. 
 
 Regularly and even beautifully bnilt, with fine open 
 streets, a noble spacious square, and many churches — ■ 
 the principal channel through which the riches of New 
 Spain are poured into the Old World — Vera Cruz is 
 deserted in its appearance, and forbidding, from the ut- 
 terly steril character of tlie shore on which it is based, 
 and the flights of unclean birds which perch upon its 
 roofs and churches, and hover round its walls. Mam- 
 mon is the sole god of the city which is called after the 
 symbol of our faith ; and here the bones of thousands 
 of his worshippers whiten in the sands. The popula- 
 tion lias dwindled down from sixteen thousand to five 
 thousand souls ; and every year, a large proportion of 
 the new inhabitants, or the foreign arrivals, whether 
 from the cool table land above or from beyond sea, are 
 carried off by that terrible malady the " black vomit." 
 
 The season when the vomito displays its greatest 
 virulence is commonly from August to October. This 
 year, it had never ceased to carry off newcomers, even 
 during the cool months following the preceding rainy 
 season, and already in January it had made consider- 
 able ravages At the time we thus came within its 
 power, forty deaths a day were reported, and it was 
 supposed many more actually occurred. 
 
 The intense heats of the climate, augmented by the 
 high walls of the city, and the rise of the sand hills — 
 together with the stagnant waters in the neio^hbouring 
 lagoons — are supposed to be the nurses of this terribly 
 malignant and subtile form of bilious fever, to which 
 experience has proved that the unacclimated is ex- 
 posed, though he breathe the infected atmosphere but a 
 T 2 
 
222 VERA CRUZ. 
 
 single hour. No care, no precaution, no previons course 
 of medicine — no certain antidote can be prescribed. 
 In daring it from necessity, you must rest satisfied with 
 following the advice given, and taking those measures 
 which, however vain in many cases, experience has 
 sanctioned, and throw yourself upon the mercy of God 
 for the rest. 
 
 And this we had done to the best of our ability. We 
 were told that the preceding three days' norte was, to 
 a certain degree, in our favour, as during its continuance 
 the pestilence abates something of its virulence. On 
 shipboard we might be considered to be in no danger ; 
 but we had passed two or three hours within reach of 
 the infection ; and though there was a strong impulse 
 in our bosoms to chant Te Deum, there was that uncer- 
 tainty in our position which mingled the wailing ac- 
 cents of Miserere mei, Deus I with the song of praise. 
 
 The castle of San Juan de Ulua belongs to that class 
 of fortresses whose real strength is much more re- 
 markable, than their outward appearance is striking or 
 picturesque. It lies low on the water, in the midst of 
 the harbourage, having for its base nothing more ele- 
 vated than a mere sand bank, of which the shallow flats 
 form its defence to the seaward. We had a permit 
 for the inspection of the interior, but were in nowise 
 tempted to take advantage of it. The morning passed 
 away swiftly, in making the necessary arrangements 
 for the voyage ; and the afternoon, in hourly expecta- 
 tion of departure. One by one, our fellow-passengers 
 came dropping in ; and all being on board by five in 
 the evening, we were glad and thankful to weigh an- 
 chor, and see the bow of the handsome vessel turned ta 
 the northeast. The sun set in haze and cloudy over the 
 summits of the distant Cordillera. Orizava was com- 
 pletely covered. The wind was favourable, and long 
 before dawn, we had lost sight of the coast of New 
 Spain. 
 
 And now what would you have me say more. 
 
NEW SPAIN. 223 
 
 It would be deemed presumptuous in one who had 
 spent but three months in a country, if he were to pre- 
 tend to speak decidedly as to the condition of its in- 
 habitants and character of its government. Little as 
 we saw, nevertheless there are certain broad traits which 
 strike the foreigner immediately, and I believe the cor- 
 rectness of his first impressions is fully substantiated 
 by the experience of all whose position has yielded an 
 occasion of looking at the state of society more closely. 
 My hastily imbibed impressions of the inhabitants of 
 New Spain were far from being favourable either to 
 the people or to the system they have been pleased to 
 adopt for their guide. If I may judge by what I saw 
 and what I learned, I should infer that the barber, 
 whose opinion I have elsewhere mentioned, was in the 
 right, and that, of all countries I had ever seen, New 
 Spain contains the largest proportion of canaille. How 
 few, in that motley population, from the bedizened offi- 
 cial of an hour to the lazar sleeping on the steps of the 
 churches, merit any other name. 
 
 In the United States, however strong your bias to 
 the opinion, you pause in asserting that the theory of 
 popular self-government can never be reduced to suc- 
 cessful practice among the present races of mankind. 
 However strong your secret conviction, that, though 
 circumstances may have there favoured it thus far, it 
 will, however wise and however reasonable in theory, 
 ultimately prove itself inapplicable to man in his fallen 
 state, even in that vaunted instance, there exists, for 
 the time being, so much which would appear to tell in 
 its favour, that you may as well shun the war of words. 
 You feel that you had better hold your tongue and not 
 argue, but let Time, the prover of all things, speak for 
 you. But here in New Spain the case is otherwise ; 
 and the same may be said of all its southern neigh- 
 bours in like positions : the experiment is one of which 
 the madness is evident, and that it has not been, thus 
 far, attended with like evils in the United States, is to 
 be attributed to the diiference of lineage, blood, and 
 position ; not that the theory is a wise one. 
 
S24 NEW SPAIN. 
 
 No one who has ever spent a month in Mexico will 
 pretend to say that the present stale of the conntry is 
 flattering to the advocates of repuhlicanism. He de- 
 tects want of system ; want of public and private faith ; 
 want of legitimate means of carrying on the govern- 
 ment, of erj forcing the laws, or maintaining order ; total 
 absence of patriotism ; a general ignorance ; indiifer- 
 ence to the value of education, linked to overweening 
 arrocrance and pride ; an incredible absence of men of 
 either natural or acquired talent of any description ; 
 and intolerant support of the darkest bigotry and super- 
 stition. The mennest partisanship stands in the place 
 of patriotism. The government of the moment has 
 not the power of effectually governing, even if it were 
 sincere in the desire. No party is trusted ; no man in 
 the country can command even the respect, much less 
 the co-operation of all ; (I say respect, because a man 
 of undoubted talent and probity and honest views, will 
 be respected even by his political adversaries ;) and 
 why 7 — because self-seeking and self-aggrandizement is 
 the purpose of all. They vapour about patriotism, and 
 know not the signification of the word. 
 
 The people of the United States, and the partisans of 
 their system all the world over, find a reedy answer or 
 apology for the disreputable state of things among these 
 their imitators ; and lay the present disorganization to 
 the charge of the ancient tyranny. No — even granting 
 that Spain in the government of her colonies was tyran- 
 nical, there are other causes which incapacitate the 
 Mexicans from treading in the footsteps of the states 
 more to the north, and which will, it is probable, always 
 prevent them attaining to their respectable position, how- 
 ever it were to be wished. They have neither the prin- 
 ciples of government, nor the reason, nor the conviction 
 of the value of education, and more than all, the strong 
 moral sense and general diffusion of religious principle^ 
 which distinguish their more northern neighbours. And 
 what is to give it thim ? 
 
 I have now but little more to add of a character likely 
 to interest you, • 
 
THE PACKET SHIP. 225 
 
 The " Mexican," for so our packet was called, was a 
 fine new vessel, clean and well-ordered, a fast sailer, 
 and altogether the most comfortable ship I ever was in. 
 We had our staterooms on deck in a kind of open round- 
 house. 
 
 The voyage was, upon the whole, prosperous ; and for 
 many days it seemed as if it would have been made in 
 an unusually brief space of time — such was the rapid ad- 
 vance made under the influence of a steady breeze, and 
 the rapidity of the great gulf stream, whose current was 
 in our favour. In one forty-eight hours, we logged an 
 advance of full five hundred miles. However, three 
 days' storm in the latitude of Cape Hatteras, delayed us 
 considerably ; and it was on May 19th before we crossed 
 the bar at Sandy Hook, and entered the port of New- 
 York. 
 
 There was one occurrence on board, however, which 
 made a great impression upon the ship's company at the 
 time, and with the mention of that I terminate my chron- 
 icle. Among the Europeans who had come down from 
 the capital with the other passengers for the packet, was 
 Mr. P., a young French gentleman of family, an attache 
 of the French legation. He had spent two years in the 
 country, and was now returning to New- York and Paris 
 with despatches, to the joy of his parents, to whom, as 
 we learned afterward, this long separation had been a 
 grievous trial. 
 
 Gay and careless, on arrival at Jalapa, far from fol- 
 lowing the advice or example of every other individual 
 of the party similarly circumstanced, he persisted in con- 
 tinuing his journey to Vera Cruz without delay, laughing 
 at the idea of the danger — preferring to pass jovially a 
 day or two with his acquaintances in that city, to the 
 detention in a town on the mountains, where he felt no 
 particular interest. He went — and on the evening of 
 sailing, he joined us on board, dilating upon the social 
 hours he had passed in consequence of his better man- 
 agement. 
 
 Poor fellow ! — little did he imagine, that that heedless 
 
226 A DEATH AT SEA. 
 
 contempt of danger would cost him his life ; that at that 
 very moment, the seeds were sown of the faial disease; 
 and that, in ihe eyes of more than one experienced ob- 
 server on board, he was already a doomed man. In 
 common with many of the passengers, he suffered from 
 seasickness during the first two or three days, but when 
 they, one by one, recovered heahh and spirits, he con- 
 tinued very ill, and evidently grew worse instead of bet- 
 ter. The bad habit of body in which he evidently was, 
 accounted for this in some degree ; but on the fourth 
 day, a total prostration of strength, the horribly livid hue 
 of his countenance, and other yet more certain symptoms 
 of the vomilo, began to excite more than ordinary inter- 
 est and attention. The idea of having the horrible dis- 
 ease among us was repulsive, as you may imagine. Many 
 denied the possibility, and for some time the matter was 
 rather whispered than openly debated. The fifth day 
 brought delirium and raving. No remedy suggested by 
 the experience of those around him, no care, brought 
 any alleviation. It was affecting to see at this time, when 
 the nature of the dreadful malady which he had thus in- 
 troduced, by fatal imprudence, into our floating prison 
 became unquestionable, how all seemed to front the dan- 
 ger with firmness. There was no skulking and no mur- 
 muring; no shunning the sick man's couch when assist- 
 ance was necessary. He had no intimate friend on 
 board, and all seemed therefore to claim an equal right 
 to do what could be done. De Pourtales in particular, 
 who felt not only the tie of language with the sufferer, 
 but the similarity of their ages and positions, was unre- 
 mitting in his good offices. 
 
 The night between the seventh and eighth was a 
 dreadful one. We were off the Campeachy Bank ; and 
 soon after dark a heavy squall with thunder and light- 
 ning came on. 
 
 '^rhe poor patient had been removed from below to 
 one of the deck staterooms, both for a freer circulation 
 of air, as well as to diminish the danger of infection. 
 Pourtales, M'Euen, and myself, occupied the berths in 
 bis immediate proximity^ 
 
A DEATH AT SEA. 237 
 
 I cannot describe to you the effect produced upon the 
 mind, as, during the long watches of that night, the fe- 
 vered and agonizing ravings of the dying man were 
 heard mingling with the whistling of the wind in the 
 cordage^the wash of the sea, and the roll of the thunder. 
 Tlie rocking of the vessel on the short seas, and the 
 shocks which it received, evidently aggravated his suf- 
 ferings — and from sundown to sunrise, neither spirit nor 
 body found repose. He frequently called us by name ; 
 but when we crept to the side of his berth, all was inco- 
 herence. 
 
 Poor young man ! he had been brought up in the 
 heartless school of French immoralit}', and had lived 
 without God or shame ; and now, with clouded reason 
 and senses, was dying beyond the sense of sorrow and 
 repentance for sin. The day which followed was a 
 weary one ; we nil trod the deck in silence. The patient 
 got no rest. His spirit was literally "raving round its 
 prison walls,'' and seeking exit. Towards evening, the 
 last fatal symptom of his dreadful malady came on — the 
 black vomit — and yet he lived. We could none of us 
 rest, but watched when the end would come. Our cap- 
 tain was a noble character, and his behaviour was, 
 throughout, such as to reflect honour on himself and the 
 service. Had he been the dying man's brother, he could 
 not have evinced a more complete and more generous 
 devotedness than he did from first to last. There he 
 sat, hour after hour, supporting the languid head, and 
 watching the gasp f(3^ breath, perfectly regardless of the 
 risk of infection ; and when about half past one, on the 
 morning of the eighth, the sufferer at length ceased to 
 breathe, he was still at his post. 
 
 When all was over, energetic measures were imme- 
 diately adopted to avert danger to the passengers and 
 crew. The body was strongly sewed up in canvass ; 
 and by seven o'clock most signs of the past trial had been 
 carefully removed. But there was still the shapeless 
 corpse, which, covered with a flag, lay extended upon a 
 plank, resting upon the starboard bulwarks of the vessel. 
 
 There had been no indecent hurry — at the same time 
 
S28 A FUNERAL AT SEA. 
 
 that there was no risk knowingly incurred. Out of re* 
 spect to the dead and the Hving, and for the sake of those 
 for whose breasts this heavy blow was preparing, it was 
 unanimously decided that all that decency could suggest 
 should be done. He might not be of our faith— ^je might 
 not have lived and died to the Lord : our duty as men 
 was clear ; and for the rest, we left judgment to Him 
 that judgeth righteously. 
 
 At sunrise the small crew clustered round the main- 
 mast, and the passengers under the roundhouse. The 
 ensign of the United States, with its stars and stripes, 
 floated halfway up the rigging ; and the ship was kept 
 under easy sail on the fresh but favourable breeze which 
 had sprung up after the squall. The sky was without a 
 cloud. In the absence of a clergyman of any church, 
 the duty of reading the service over the body was im- 
 posed upon me. I never heard that exquisitely beautiful 
 portion of the ritual of the Church of England read without 
 emotion, and none need wonder that I felt my voice trem- 
 ble, as now, in the face of the broad blue sky, and amid 
 the world of waters, I was called to utter its solemn 
 strain over the lifeless remains of the companion who 
 had thus been suddenly taken away while we were left. 
 Others may have forgotten the incident long ago — I never 
 can forget it. Yet the circumstances were such as so- 
 bered the most unreflecting for the time. All saw before 
 them a striking proof that " Man that is horn of a woman 
 hath but a short time to live, and is^fuU of misery /" and 
 that " In the midst of live ive are in death.''^ 
 
 Thus we committed the body of our fellow mortal to 
 the deep, to be turned into corruption : looking for the 
 resurrection of the body, when the sea shall give up her 
 dead. 
 
 •THE EKD. 
 
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