Class _^a4>C^ Book. Gopyri^htN". COPYRIGHT DEPOSrK Mr. and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald Missionary Journeys through Bible Lands Italy, Greece, Egypt, Palestine, Syria Asia Minor and other Countries Including a Description of Religious and Social Conditions in Palestine and Syria, Personal Missionary Experiences, and a Discussiorh of Missionary Methods By F. G. SMITH Author of "Evolution of Christianity," "The Eevelation Explained," "What the Bible Teaches," etc. I pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beersheba and cry, " 'Tis all barren!" — Sterne. But warm, sweet, tender, even yet A present help is He; And faith has still its Olivet, And love its Galilee. — Whittier. GOSPEL TRUMPET COMPANY Anderson, Indiana, U.S. A. Copyright 1915 By Gospel Trumpet Company L^EC -6 1915 ©CI.A416740 PREFACE Some one has said, "There is no end of books of travel, and no end to their sameness." A similar remark might also be made with respect to works of history, logic, geography, or algebra. Where identical prob- lems are to be handled or identical places and events described, a certain degree of sameness is to be expected. But this does not neces- sitate identity of statement nor tedious monotony. As each author is inspired by a different view of the subject and has a different object in its presentation, his personality and individual style is certain to lierid freshness and variety to his description, especially if he is writing of the charming scenes and scenery of the Holy Land. Furthermore, every book, however humble, has its own circle of readers — many of whom may never peruse other works of the kind — and therefore has its own mission to fulfil. As McHvaine has said, "Vessels of moderate draught may go up the tributary streams of public thought, and may deal advantageously with the minds of men, where others of heavier ton- nage cbuld never reach." One characteristic of most books of this kind I have tried to avoid; namely, the narration of a large amount of the ordinary details of traveling. Why should the reader be constantly burdened with the thousand and one perplexities due to inconveniences of travel, such as the annoyances caused by carriage-drivers, innkeepers, and beggars .'' A few references to such things for the purpose of portraying customs and conditions as they exist is sufficient. And instead of mixing together in one continuous narrative every variety of subject, I have endeavored to give, wherever possible, better form and system to the work by arranging particular subjects in classes by themselves, under their own appropriate headings. The Holy Land is to Christians the most sacred place on the earth — not because of what it is today, but because of its rich historic as- sociations. To Abraham it was the Land of Promise; to us it is the 6 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Land of Fulfilment. Here lived and wrote the inspired prophets of old, and here the Son of God became incarnate; here Christianity had its birth, and from this land went for.th those holy apostles and ministers of Christ who delivered that gospel which has descended to us. There ,j^ laip-^logy bet\yeeu a trip eastward to Palestine and the act of tracing ,fij ^iyer backward to its source; therefore, regarding Christia,nity as a j^|^p,e9.m issuing fro^ the Holy Land, I have placed special emphasis .pn; its historic sel;ting.. In addition to this, I have also endeavored tc? give the work greater value by a brief description of present-day ^Religious and Social Conditions in Palestine and Syria, an account of JPerspnal Missionary Experiences, and a comparison of apostolic and )|i^odern Missionary Methods. J J, When these missionary journeys were undertaken, no thought of PjLl]blishing a book on this subject was entertained. Our object in going |to those countries of the Orient was that we might do something toward .Ci^tablishing God's true work in that part of the world. And by way of ,je|?;planation, I Fpi^ld state that the extra expenses incurred by taking ^t|\e special trips described in this book were borne privately. i,,> It is our earnest desire; and hope that the reader who in these pages accompanies us to the earthly Land of Promise will also make the j putney to tha^; upper and "better country," that we may meet on ,t;erms of more intimate fellowship in the "heavenly Jerusalem." ,,ji Yours and Christ's, r,, ■ . F.G.Smith. Qrand Junction, Mich., Nov. 6, 19 H. PALESTINE : : . Blest land of Judea! thrice hallowed of song, Where the holiest of memories pilgrim-like throng; In the shade of thy palms, by the shores of thy sea, On the hills of thy beauty, my heart is with thee. With the eye of a spirit I look on that shore. Where pilgrim and prophet have lingered before; With the glide of a spirit I traverse the sod , Made bright by the steps of the angels of God. Blue sea of the hills! — in my spirit I hear Thy waters, Gennesaret, chime on my ear; Where the Lowly and Just with the people sat down, And thy spray on the dust of his sandals was thrown. Beyond are Bethulia's mountains of green. And the desolate hills of the wild Gadarene; And I pause on the goat-crags of Tabor to see The gleam of thy waters, O dark Galilee! Hark, a sound in the valley! where, swollen and strong, Thy river, O Kishon, is sweeping along; Where the Canaanite strove with Jehovah in vain. And thy torrent grew dark with the blood of the slain. There down from his mountains stern Zebulon came. And Naphtali 's stag, with his eyeballs of flame. And the chariots of Jabin rolled harmlessly on, For the arm of the Lord was Abinoam's son! There sleep the still rocks and the caverns which rang To the song which the beautiful prophetess sang, Wiien the princes of Issachar stood by her side, And the shout of a host in its triumph replied. Lo, Bethlehem 's hill-site before me is seen, With the mountains around, and the valleys between; There rested the shepherds of Judah, and there The song of the angels rose sweet on the air. And Bethany 's palm-trees in beauty still throw Their shadows at noon on the ruins below; But where are the sisters who hastened to greet The lowly Eedeemer, and sit at his feet? I tread where the Twelve in their wayfaring trod; I stand where they stood with the Chosen of God, Where his blessing was heard and his lessons were taught. Where the blind were restored and the healing was wrought. Oh, here with his flock the sad Wanderer came, These hills he toiled over in grief are the same, The founts where he drank by the wayside still flow, And the same airs are blowing which breathed on his brow! And throned on her hills sits Jerusalem yet, But with dust on her forehead, and chains on her feet; For the crown of her pride to the mocker hath gone. And the holy Shechinah is dark where it shone. But wherefore this dream of the earthly abode Of Humanity clothed in the brightness of God? Were my spirit but turned from the outward and dim, It could gaze, even now, on the brightness of Him! Not in clouds and in terrors, but gentle as when. In love and in meekness, he moved among men; And the voice which breathed peace to the waves of the sea In the hush of my spirit would whisper to me. And what if my feet may not tread where he stood. Nor my ears hear the dashing of Galilee's flood. Nor my eyes see the cross which he bowed him to bear. Nor my knees press Gethsemane's garden of prayer f Yet, Loved of the Father, thy Spirit is near, To the meek and the lowly and penitent here; And the voice of thy love is the same even now ,. As at Bethany's tomb or on Olivet's brow. , y Oh, the outward hath gone! but in glory and power The Spirit surviveth the things of an hour; Unchanged, undecaying, its Pentecost flame On the heart's secret altar is burning the same! — John Greenleaf Whittier. CONTENTS Preface 5 Palestine (Poem) • 7 EASTWARD TO SYRIA London 23—47 The British Museum 24 Tower of London 33 London to Milan, Italy. 47-49 Milan 49-54 Florence, "the Art City of the World" 54-55 Pisa 56-58 Rome 58-68 The Vatican 68-84 Rome to Athens 84-87 Athens 87—96 Leaving "Classical Antiquity" 96—97 Alexandria 97—102 Cairo 102-107 Cairo to Beirut 107-109 THROUGH THE HOLY LAND Beirut to Alexandria. .... * 113—116 From Egypt to Palestine 116—122 Jerusalem 122-161 Modern Jerusalem 128 Trip to Jericho, the Jordan, and the Dead Sea 161—177 The Jordan River 167 The Dead Sea 170 Trip to Bethlehem and Hebron 177-191 Hebron 186 Visiting the Environs of Jerusalem:. .191—198 From Jerusalem to Nazareth . 198-243 Nabulus (Shechem) 204 Samaria 214 Nazareth 222 IX X CONTENTS The Drive to Tiberius 225-243 Tiberius 233 From Haifa to Damascus. . • • 244-251 Damscus 247 Baalbeck ■ • • • 252 TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES Prom Beirut to Constantinople 261-278 Constantinople 266 The Ottoman Museum 273 Trip to Roumania 276 From Constantinople to the Syrian Coast 278-289 Antioch 286 RjELIGIOUS AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA Races of People 293-294 Religion 295-324 The Druses 297 The Mohammedans 30.1 The Jews 312 The Christians 313 The Greek Orthodox Church 315 The Maronite Church 318 Protestant Missionary Work 322 PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES In Syria 327-340 ; 348-355 In Egypt . 340-312 In the Balkans 342-344 In Asia Minor . 344-345 On the Island of Cyprus . 345-348 MISSIONARY METHODS Paul, the Ideal Missionary 359-372 Modern Methods 372-376 A Proper Method 377-381 HOMEWARD BOUND From Syria to Egypt 385-386 Home by Way of Italy, France, Germany, and Great Britain 386-388 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Mr. and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald. .......... .Frontispiece Camp-Meeting Group near Belfast, Ireland 23 The British Museum 24 The Rosetta Stone • . • ,: 26 The Tower of London 34 Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall 37 The Cathedral at Milan 50 Interior of Milan Cathedral . 51 Church of St. Ambrose , • . . 53 Florence, Italy . 54 Panorama of Pisa, Italy 56 The Leaning Tower 57 Home from the Dome of St. Peter's 59 Temple of Vesta 60 The Catacombs at Rome 62 Appian Way and Tomb of Cecilia Metella. . 63 St. Peter's . 64 Bronze Canopy, High Altar, and Statue of St. Peter 65 Palace of the Vatican , 69 Library-Room of the Vatican. , 71 The Pantheon 74 The Colosseum 77 Interior of Colosseum (Restored) 79 Pilate's Staircase 81 The Roman Forum 83 Arch of Titus 84 Patras, Greece 85 Canal Near Corinth 87 Temple of Theseus 88 Mar's Hill, Athens 89 Acropolis. Temple of Zeus in Foreground 90 The Parthenon .91 Ancient Stairway up Mar's Hill 92 Prison of Socrates 93 Caryatid Porch on the Acropolis 94 XI XII LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Tower of the Winds 96 Theater of Dionysius 9& Alexandria, Egypt 9& Pompey's Pillar 100 G. K. Ouzounian and Family, of Cairo, Egypt 103^ The Great Pyramid at Gizeh 104- Ascending the Great Pyramid lOS- Our Party at the Sphinx 106 Beirut, Syria 108 Rameses II, the Pharaoh of the Oppression 115 Jaffa from the Sea 117 Grave of Tabitha 118 House of Simon the Tanner 119 Panorama of Jerusalem 123^ Jerusalem Jews 124 Damascus Gate, Jerusalem 12T Tower of David 129- David Street, Jerusalem .131 Pool of Hezekiah 132 Church of the Holy Sepulcher 134 Tombs of the Kings 137 At the Reputed Grave of Jesus 140 Mount of Olives 143 The Mosque of Omar. 148 The Sacred Rock 150- Pool of Bethesda ' 155- Native with Plow by the Wall of Jerusalem 158 "Apostles' Spring" Beyond Bethany. 160" Good Samaritan's Inn, on the Road to Jericho 162" Convent of St. George. .'. 163 Elisha's Fountain near Jericho 165 Modern Jericho 166- Our Party on the Jordan River 167 Baptizing in the River Jordan 169' The Dead Sea 170' Bethany .172 Tomb of Lazarus 173^ The Jews' Wailing-Place . 175 The Tomb of Rachel. 178 Field of Boaz near Bethlehem 179' LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XIII Christmas Day in Bethlehem 181 Interior of Church of the Nativity — Bethlehem 183 The Pools of Solomon 185 General View of Hebron 186 Gethsemane from Jerusalem 190 In the Garden of Gethsemane , 191 Bethel 200 Jacob's Well 203 Nabulus 205 Samaritan Passover Encampment on Mount Gerizim 208 Place of Sacrifice on Mount Gerizim 209 The Samaritan Pentateuch 211 Grand Colonnade of Samaria 215 Ruins of "Ivory Palace", Samaria 218 Mount Tabor 220 Nazareth 221 Interior of Church of the Annunciation 223 Ancient Synagogue at Nazareth 225 The Virgins' Fountain, Nazareth 226 Cana of Galilee 227 Ancient Water-Pot at Cana 228 Besieged by Young Venders at Cana 229 On the Mount of Beatitudes 230 Tiberius, on the Sea of Galilee 232 Ruins of a Synagogue at Capernaum 236 Bethsaida 237 Haifa 238 Grerald's "Sacrific" on Mount Carmel 240 Convent on Mount Carmel * 242 House of Ananias, Damascus 248 Interior of the Grand Mosque, Damascus 249 General View of Baalbeck Ruins 252 Temple of Bacchus 255 Interior of Temple of Bacchus 256 Gigantic Block of Stone at Baalbeck 258 Smyrna , 264 Constantinople ^ 267 Mosque of St. Sophia, Constantinople 269 Interior of Mosque of St. Sophia 270 Entrance to the Imperial Palace 272 Xiv LIST OF tLLUSTKATIONS Monastery at Ismid (Nicomedia) 276 Prinkipo Island ......' '.' • - -■'^- • • 277 Mersina, Asia Minor -.....' 282 General View of Tarsus " ' 28S St. Paul's Gate at Tarsus "......'... ". 284 Cascades at Tarsus ...... .,. -. . . -. . • . -. -. -.' yV i^.' .' • • • . • • . •■ •'.•.. . . . . 285 Alexandretta' ... -. . . •. . . . . . -• -. - •• •• . -• • ■• ^ -• -• • • ■• • • • • • • • • • • ;• • • • • • -285 Antioch, Syria . . . -. . . . . • . . • • . • • • • • • ...... • • • . • .....;.. <. . . 286- :^art of Ancient Wall at Antioch. ... . . . ... . ... . . ........ ... .287- Cave Church of St. Peter at Antioch. ..... . ... ... : ... . . . • ■ • -287; Ancient Rock Relief. .... ........ . V. . . /. . ... . . . . . /. . ; . . . . .28S Mr? and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald, in Druse Costume. .. . . 298' Mikaret with Muezzin Calling the Faithful ta Prayer.-. ... . .'.- . . .303' Moslems at -Prayer. ... ... . . . . . . . . . . ..... . . ;. . ; .-, . . . . . .-i . .305 ]SFativ€ Shoemaker, -Syria-. . . . . . . . . . . . ..-. .... . . . . -. -. -. -. ■. . ... .- . . -.306k Women 'Going to Market.-. ... .. . . ....-.-.-..-.-..-.-.-.-.-..■... . j . /.307*^ li^Ioslem Women in the Street. ... ... i ...... .. . i . . .".^ . ; .\;-.'. .-.308 Native- Women Carrying Water. .... .. ^ .:'..-. '~ ■:.'.'.'% .-i-.".': ; . . ; .310 An Arab Caravan. ......... . ...... . : . V. . , vv. ; ; ; . . . ^. .,. . . .311 l^a'zareth Women ...-.■.-.-...'...■.....-.'.-.■.-.-.-.'.•.".'.-... ........ .313 A Grecian Costume. ................ . .-. .V: ^ . : . . . . :\ . . . ; . .1 .318 Glc^ek Costume . . . . . . -. . . . . . . . . . v . ; .-r. .'.;-.'.. . ^^; ;":.-. .'. . . . ". . 32i2 A^Mative Porter. .....-.■.-.-. ..-. .■.•...-.■..'. .i^ .;-.—.-. ^% .^T/i . ; . . .327 ^The-Grass' of the Field". ... .....-.-.-.. .r?. .V: :Ki'MKi^: . . . . . 328 Ai^n^illage Bake-Oven. ........ .. ; . . .^^ . . v". ;^^L vC; S- .'VJ: .... .^:^t> W^imen Grinding at the Mill. .■.■.■.•.-.'.-.•.-.'...•.-.-.•.•.■.■.■.■.■.■. .-. : ; ; ~. .33$ KStive Women- Washing. ..'.-.■....'.'.■. .=. .-...-.■.•.■.■.■.•.;.-.•.•.•.•.•.•. .'^.333 As fart of Schweifat, Mount Lebanon^. I'yr.V: . • . • V . . V. ". . • : . . ^33^' O&S-Home and Place of Worship in Schweifat. ... ... 1 . : .^ .... .835 Our First Baptism^ ^Candidates ■in=Syriar.;.^i;; ; .V. . . ?. . . • . '. .'838 Crowd at a Baptismal Service ill Egif^.. ; i ... ...... . . ; . ...... ;340 A& Egyptian. Street ■ Scene .-..-.'.'.-. ^^.'. . .-. :'-. . . ; : . . . f . ?;. : . .v.-.'84T Kafive. Egyptian Woman and- Bfiby-.-.^.^-. ^'■.\^^'.. '.'.■'. .vr. . ?. ;. .•84| A? Roumanian Boy-.'.-.-.-.'.-.'.-.-.'.'.-.'.'..-, .'i'. . /^ V. ; ; .' ;!'.';.. . '. . .' . :BfB !^S-enia, . Cyprus ■ ■..........•.■. .■.•.•.^\-vv;.\\ .'. .'.^r:v; . V. ! . Vv. r. . .S^ff Mblmtain Castle -of- St. Hilarion-. . . -. -. -. -. -. -. -. •. -. •. -. -. -. -. . -. '. : : : : . \ '■': . SflT' f "... J ... »"\ AMbian. Women and Native Village... .■.•.-.■.■.•.-.'.•.•.•.•.■. V ;l'"; : .■':'. ^34^8 li^anon Laborers Returning. -.'/ .^w %>;:■: 'l^I^V-: .':':''.-:^:f.: i'. //.';'; .S'^d irrClommon. Burden^Bearer.-.-...'.-.-.-.'.-.^ JlO*^."':^ Vl ?!*i^r?^ /?.1-.-!^ laical, Lebanon -Village-. •. ■. -. -. -. •. -. •. -. -/^PfiWl . 'nV:¥h ^'J^}. "J'l .'V^f'f ?M LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XV Four Mission Workers in Mount Lebanon 353 Harvesting in the Holy Land 362 A Syrian Threshing-Floor 364* Pyramid at Sakkara, Egypt 366 .Obelisk at Heliopolis, Egypt 368 Egyptian Water-Carriers 371 Bedouin Tents in Syria 373 Syrian Peasant Plowing 375 Church of God Mission, Alexandria, Egypt 379 EASTWARD TO SYRIA EASTWARD TO SYRIA During several years spent in evangelistic work in different parts of the United States I experienced a keen interest in the spread of the pure gospel in other countries, and felt that sometime the Lord would be pleased that I should have a part personally in planting the truth in lands beyond the sea. My chief interest, however, always centered in those countries of the East that gave birth to Christianity and that for many centuries have been enveloped in spiritual darkness. Finally a door of opportunity was opened, and in the month of June, 1912, a combination of circumstances impressed more deeply than ever before upon my mind, and also upon my wife's mind, the necessity of making a decision in regard to going. A few months previous to this time Bessie L. Hittle and Minnie B. Tasker, wife of George P. Tasker, had received a call to come to Mount Lebanon, Syria, to teach in a native school. This suited Opportunity Sister Tasker's purpose temporarily, for she and her husband had already decided to go in a short time as permanent missionaries to India. Therefore in response to this call these sisters proceeded to Syria and entered upon their work, while Brother Tasker remained some months longer to look "after certafna important matters in the United States, before joining his wife enroute- to India. Shortly after reaching their destination, these sisters began to» realize the need of some one whose time could be spent in preaching the- word of God to the people; so when we learned of the Deciding circumstances connected with their work we began to. feel the hand of the Lord upon us to go and to do what we could in this respect. It meant much to us to decide to enter uponi this work, since its duties and responsibilities would all be new to us; for experience gained in our own country might prove to be of little practical worth among other peoples, who differed in religions, customs, and social conditions. If we had already had a settled work in that part of the world, so that we could have gone as helpers, and obtained ex- perience in connection with others already experienced, it would have been a different matter ; but to start out at the call of God, like Abra^ ham of old, who "went out, not knowing whither he went" (Heb. 11 ; 8), not knowing what conditions we should have to meet and what responsi' 19 20 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS bilities we should have to bear, — meant more to us than one can easily realize without personal experience. Furthermore, we were very much crowded with work here in our own coiilntry; we were receiving many |?iore calls for meetings than we could possibly fill. At that time I had a,J[ready arranged for meetings one year in advance. And then the t|li()ught of being, separated from the dear saints in America and from ^11 of pur relatives and loved ones pressed heavily upon our hearts. I^ith these thoughts upon our minds, on the second day of July, my yifje ai^d I retired to our room for the purpiose of prayer, that we might ^ft. the matter settled. Brother Tasker had already arranged to sail from New York on July 18, en route to India via Syria, and as we •desired, to accompany him if we went East, it was necessary that we de^cide at once. While kneeling in prayer in that little upper room, my sister was playing a phonograph in the room below, and I could hear distinctly the beautiful voices of the Edison Mixed Quartette singing, "fiome, Kome, sweet, sweet home; ' ' ^e it ev6r so Immble, there's no place like home.", But the will of God was dearer to us than the pleasant thoughts of ^l^home, sweet home." He who left his home of dazzling splendor in realms of light beyond, to bring the gospel message to a darkened, sin- ful world below, set us an example of sacrifice and self-denial; and willingly we stood ready to fulfil our part of his divine command — -"go YE INTO ALL THE WORLD, AND PREACH THE GOSPEL TO EVERY CREATURe" (Mark 16: 15). ^ J , Our decision was made. We informed Brother Tasker that if he wpuld delay his sailing until July 25 we would be ready to go with him; _, ^ ^ and we soon received the reply that he would wait for us. J I quickly canceled all of our meetmg dates, and on July jl^^e bade farewell to my relatives, and started on our long journey. Qur first stop was in Chicago, where we spent about two days with the ^r^thren in the missionary home, and met many of the saints who came to tlie services th?it were held the two nights we were there. We then Proceeded to Anderson, Ind., where we remained over Sunday. Wife tljenfWentto see her relatives in West Virginia, while I visited three or ^ouTr (^i th? con^i:egatiQns where we had labored considerably in the pasf^/ 4J^out thistim^ I wrote a little farewell note, which was published i^rtlie following issue of the Missionarz/ Herald. The note ran thus: EASTWARD TO SYRIA 21 A PARTING WORD Lacota, Mich., July 18, 1912, To the church of God in America: Greeting. Before this issue of the Missionary Herald reaches its readers we shall be well on our way to a foreign field of labor. We shall sail from New York for Liverpool, England, July 25, on the steamer Adriatic, enroute to Beirut, Syria. For some time we have felt a special interest in the foreign mission^- ary work, but until the present time we have been unable to free our- selves from responsibilities in this country long enough to undertake the work which God has now laid upon our hearts, in the land where the light of Christianity once shone so brightly. . We are thankful to the Lord that he has counted us worthy of rendering some assistance in its restoration. The only regret that we feel in undertaking this work is occasioned by the thought of separation from the dear ones left behind. Through constant work for a number of years in the evangelistic field it has been our privilege to become acquainted with thousands of the saints in the Tnany congregations where we have labored for Christ and for souls. These we have learned to love deeply. How we would enjoy meeting you all again and exchanging farewell words before taking our depar- ture! While it will not be possible for us to write to all, except as we, shall greet you from time to time through the columns of the Missionary Herald, still we would certainly appreciate hearing from you all at any tijne. It will probably be about a month before we reach our destina- tion, after which time our address will be Beirut, Syria, in care of British and Foreign Bible Society. The postage rate is five cents. We earnestly ask for your fervent prayers to God for us, that we may be sustained by his grace and be given the special wisdom which we so much need at this time. With hearts full of appreciation for the many kindnesses shown us ill, the past we now say Farewell. "God be with you till we meet again." "A few more days, a few more years To tell the dear Redeemer's story; A few more crosses, and a few more tears — Then away to our home in glory." Yours to reveal Christ, F. G. Smith and Wife. 22 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS I then joined my wife and little son Gerald in West Virginia, and together we proceeded to New York by way of Washington, Baltimore, and Philadelphia, arriving in New York on the evening of July 23. Here we found Brother Tasker awaiting us, also Vartan Atchinak and Asma Trad, of Syria, who were returning to their country, and who expected to accompany us as far as England. We sailed from New York City at noon, July 25, 1912, on the steamship Adriatic, a spendid ship of 25,000 tons, belonging to the White Star Line. Many of the saints from the mission- New York ^^y home came down to the wharf with us to see us off. As our ship swung out into the river they were soon lost to view, then the Statue of Liberty disappeared from sight, and finall}' the broad shores of America themselves faded away in the distance, and we began to settle down to make the best of an ocean voyage. On account of icebergs that were sighted off the bank of Newfoundland on the trip to New York, the Adriatic made the return trip to Liverpool over the southern route. We got along quite well, although we experi- enced a heavy sea for five days during the passage. Wife and I had a touch of seasickness. We arrived at Liverpool, England, on August 2 and found some of the saints waiting for us at the docks. Among the number was Sister Alice V. Hale, a missionary who was returning from Belfast Ireland I^i^ia. After the customary formality of clearing our baggage in the Custom House we proceeded to make inquiries and arrangements relative to the remainder of the trip. As we were expected at a camp-meeting at Belfast, Ireland, beginning the next day, we took ship in a few hours for that place, traveling third class or "steerage." We were not obliged to travel third class, but con- cluded to make the experiment. We can not forget the experiences of that night. The steerage quarters were crowded. It was so cold out on deck that we were obliged to go inside, where we received the full benefit of a large quantity of tobacco fumes, mixed with more or less profanity and drinking, with a little fighting thrown in. Next morning the Belfast harbor was indeed a welcome sight, and we rejoiced to meet at the dock Brother Allan and Brother and Sister Doebert, whom we had known in America. Upon our arrival at the camp-ground we had the pleasure of meeting Brother W. H. Cheatham, also a former ac- quaintance. The camp-ground was located at Glengormly, a suburb of Belfast. This was the first camp-meeting which we, as a church, held in the British Isles. A number of the brethren and sisters were gathered EASTWARD TO SYRIA 23 Camp-SEeetng' Group near Belfast, Irelaiid together from England and Scotland, and we had many enjoyable services during the ten days' continuance of the meeting. The power of God was manifested in saving, sanctifying, and healing ; a sweet spirit of love and unity prevailed ; and all were much edified and strengthened in the most holy faith. LONDON After the close of this meeting we returned to England, arriving in London on the 13th of August. This city, the capital of the British Empire, and the largest city in the world, has a population, approxi- mately, of 5,000,000 souls. If we include in the term "London" all of the area embraced by the metropolitan and city police districts and the parishes within fifteen miles of Charing Cross, the official center of the city, the population is nearly 7,000,000, equalling Greece and Denmark combined. London became a Roman station when the southern part of Britain became a Roman province, during the reign of Claudius Caesar, A. D. 41 — 54. During the reign of Constantine, in the early part of the fourth century, the Romans walled and fortified it and it became an important commercial city. After the withdrawal of the Romans it remained in the hands of the Britons until it was captured by the Saxon invaders and made the capital of the East Saxons. After the battle of 24 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Hastings, A. D. 1066, which was decided in favor of WilHam L, London submitted to the Conqueror and received from him a charter which is still preserved. THE BRITISH MUSEUM The first place we visited in London was the British Museum, the great national museum, which owes its origin to Sir Hans Sloane who, in 1753, bequeathed his collection of 50,000 books and manuscripts to the nation. This collection has been augmented by numerous additions The Britisli Museum from time to time until the present day ; and I feel safe in saying that nowhere in the world can be found collected together such a vast amount of materials of historical, scientific, and literary value. Here we find exhibited sculptures, writings, and other remains from the ancient Egyptians, Babylonians, Etruscans, Assyrians, Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans, not to mention medieval antiquities and modern works. British law requires that a copy of every book, newspaper, pamphlet, or piece of music published in British territory must be conveyed to this museum ; therefore we may say that almost the entire sum of human learning is deposited within its walls. Here the student of history could spend months in careful study with the realities of early days EASTWARD TO SYRIA 25 before his eyes. But our time was limited, so we could only hope to make a cursory examination of this collection aiid then pass on to other things. And I can only mention here a very few of the things that we were interested in while there. We first entered the Room of Greek and Latin Inscriptions. Here is built up a pier of the temple of Athena Polias at Priene, on the western coast of Asia Minor, with inscriptions referring Inscriptions ^^ Alexander the Great and others. There is also a long inscription referring to gifts and bequests made by C. Vibius Salutaris (A. D. 104), a public benefactor of Ephesus. This was cut upon stones which formed a part of the great theater of that city. There is a Greek inscription from Thessalonica which contains the names of magistrates, styled "politarchs," a local title, quoted by Luke in Acts 17:6, 8. Of considerable interest in this room is the epitaph in Greek verse on the Athenians who fell before Potidaea. This town, which was tributary to Athens, revolted in 432 B. C. Athens sent an expedition that succeeded in crushing the rebellion ; but the city was thereby brought into direct conflict with Sparta, causing the long and terrible Peloponnesian War, which raged until Greece was well-nigh ruined and Athens destroyed. In the Ephesus Room are arranged sculptures and architectural remains from the temple of Artemis, or Diana, at Ephesus. The first _. temple of Artemis was begun about 650 B. C, and Croesus, the wealthy Lydian king, contributed to its building. It required about one hundred and twenty years to complete it. It was afterwards set on fire and destroyed b}' a man named Hero- stratus, who sought by this means to perpetuate his memory. This occurred in 356 B. C, on the night in which Alexander was born. A second and more magnificent temple afterwards was erected reckoned as one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. This was the temple of Diana, which is mentioned in the nineteenth chapter of Acts in connec- tion with Paul's preaching in Ephesus. It was destroyed by the Goths in A. D. 262. The Elgin Room contains sculptures from the Parthenon and other buildings in Athens, and was of great interest to us. But as I shall have occasion to refer to these things when I come to describe our visit to Athens, I will not enter into a de- scription here. In another room are sculptures from the Mausoleum of Halicar- nasus. Mausolus, king of Caria, died in 353 B. C. His wife Arte- misia sought to commemorate him by erecting a monument which 26 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Mausoleum of Halicarnassus would surpass all others in beauty and richness of decoration. It also was reckoned as one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and it has given a generic name to all superb sepulchers. Pliny says that its height was 140 feet. Many beautiful and artistic remains from this ancient tomb are on exhibition. For lack of time we did not remain long in the Egyptian Rooms, as we expected to visit the Museum in Cairo, Egypt, which has the finest Ecvnti n Ro s <^ollection of Egyptian antiquities in the world, and we had before visited museums containing large collec- tions of the usual Egyptian antiquities — gods, weapons, jewelry, tools, shoes and sandals, vases, toilet arti- cles, mummies, etc. The most interest- ing historical relic of this nature that I noticed was frag- ments of the inner wooden coffin of Menkau-Ra, a king o f the fourth Egyptian Dynas- ty, and builder of the third pyramid at Gizeh; also a mummy believed to be the remains of that king, found within the pyra- mid, and probably dating from 3,000 years before Christ. But the Rosetta Stone was the chief object of our interest here in things Egyptian. It is a heavy block of black basalt that contains a decree of the priests of Memphis conferring divine The ' ' Biosetta . g^Qjjg,, honors on Ptolemy V, king of Egypt, B. C. 195. The inscription appears in threie forms — in Egyptian hier- oglyphics, in demotic (or the common writing of the people of Egypt), and also in Greek. For ages the history of ancient Egypt, with the The Rosetta Stone EASTWARD TO SYRIA 2T exception of references to it made by Greek authors, was locked up in inscrutable mystery. During the Egyptian campaign of Napoleon in 1798-99, the French discovered this famous inscribed stone near the Rosetta mouth of the Nile. ChampoUion, a French scholar, being familiar with Greek, compared the characters in the inscription and discovered the meaning of several of the symbols; and by this means furnished a key to the rich treasure-house of Egyptian antiquities. When we consider what an important bearing the history of ancient Egypt, thus deciphered, has had in firmly establishing the authenticity of certain parts of the Bible which were formerly assaulted by infidel critics, it seems fortunate indeed that this discovery was made. And it was all made possible through the military careers of two great men of prophetic import. The conquests of Alexander carried the Gre- cian language into Egypt and thus furnished conditions which after- wards gave occasion for the writing of such an inscription ; and during Napoleon's campaign the Rosetta stone was found among the ruins of an old fort. It was deposited in the British Museum in 1802. We next visited the Assyrian and Babylonian Rooms, where we found much to interest us in connection with Bible history. Many cylinders, tablets, and inscriptions of various kinds Babylonian ^^^ exhibited here. The cuneiform writing of these Rooms peoples also remained a mystery until deciphered by Sir Henry Rawlinson during the last century. The key to its interpretation was found by Rawlinson in the celebrated inscription at Behistun, in Persian Kurdistan. On the side of a high rock, nearly three hundred feet above the ground, Darius I, king of Persia, set forth his genealogy and victories in an inscription exe- cuted in three languages — Median, Persian, and Assyrian. It has been termed "the Rosetta Stone of the Cuneiform Writings." Here again we have a most fortunate discovery for believers in the Bible. Since we have been able to decipher these ancient writings, explorers are continually digging up additional proof Belshazzar ^^ ^^^ authenticity of the Scriptural accounts, to the utter discomfiture of a certain class of infidel objectors. Just to illustrate this point I will give one particular example. In the book of Daniel, Belshazzar is represented as reigning in Babylon on the night when the city was captured by the Persians (Dan. 5:30, 31). But secular history asserted that Nabonadius was the last king of the Babylonian empire, ascending the throne in 555 B. C. Over and over again this discrepancy was a lever in the hands of cavil- ing critics, who rejected the Biblical account and declared Belshazzar. ^8 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS' tb be nothing but a mythical personage. But in process of time, among the cylinders of this Nabonadius that have been unearthed Appeared one' containing a prayer on behalf of Nabonadius and his ^6n Belshhzzar. ^ This identical cylinder is now deposited in the upper ^art of Table-case G, in the Babylonian and Assyrian Room, and we had the privilege of seeing it ourselves. So the great objection has vanished into thin air; for it is now certain that Nabonadius and Belshazzar reigned jointly in the empire, and therefore both accounts are true. And this fact furnishes an explanation of Belshazzar's promise to make Daniel the third ruler in the kingdom (Dan. 5: 16). - Many circumstances related in the Bible about the nation of Israel have likewise been challenged, but the Scripture is constantly receiving confirmation from the above-mentioned sources, show- Narratives^ ing that the Bible accounts are not mythological in Confirmed character, but are the records of actual history. In 2 Kings 18 and 19 we have an account of the campaign of Sennacherib, king of Assyria, against Hezekiah, king of Judah. He first invaded Judea and captured many of the smaller towns and then laid siege to Jerusalem, and Hezekiah, sorely pressed, even stripped the temple of its gold in order to induce the Assyrian king to raise the siege. But this only proved to be a temporary respite and Sen- nacherib returned with an immense army. But Hezekiah prayed earnestly to the Lord for deliverance. "And it came to pass that night, that the angel of the Lord went out, and smote in the camp of the Assyrians an hundred fourscore and five thousand. ... So Sennacherib king of Assyria departed." The Assyrian official account of this campaign is recorded on a cylinder now on deposit in this department of the British Museum. In the Nimrod Saloon is an obelisk which was set up by Shal- maneser at Nimrod. It is called the "black obelisk." On its four sides it gives an account of his expeditions and scenes representing the four kings he had conquered, paying tribute to him. Among the num- ber appears "Jehu, the son of Omri," king of Israel. But in the Nineveh Gallery, Case A, we found something of con- siderable interest — a series of tablets giving the Babylonian and As- f, Syrian accounts of the creation and the flood. Sit- the Flood napistim (the Babylonian Noah) gives an account of the flood to Gilgamesh, a mythical hero. "The gods determined to send a deluge. Sit-napistim was bidden to build a ship, and to embark in it with all his goods, the members of his family, and the beasts and cattle of the field. The flood follows ; its abate- EASTWARD TO SYRIA 29. ment; the resting of the ship on the mountain of Nizir, aiid the sending forth of a dove, a swallow, and a raven on the seventh day ; and then the coming forth from the ship." This account very nearly agrees with the one given in Genesis. Abraham, it will be remembered, lived in Ut of the Chaldees when he was directed by the Lord to migrate westward land start a new nation. So it seems quite probable that the account which was handed down through the family of Abrahan;i to the author* of the book of Genesis proceeded from the same source from which th^ Chaldean account originated. ; In the Department of Manuscripts we found much to engage ojlr attention and make a deep impression. Here we found our time all too short ; but I found an opportunity to return ; to Manuscripts ^^^^ department again before leaving the city. In classical times, books, both Greek and Latin, were for the most part written on papyrus, which was manufactured from the stem of an aquatic plant of that name, formerly common in Egyj^t. Vellum was also employed to some extent as early as the second cen- tury B. C, but was generally regarded as inferior to papyrus. Ir^ later times, vellum supplanted the papyrus, being more durable. Iii the dry climate of Egypt, however, papyrus manuscripts have rer mained well preserved, and large quantities of them have been unearthed during the past few years. ^ ; The oldest papyrus manuscript in the British Museum is a por- tion of Plato's "Phaedo," dating from the first half of the third century B. C. It was discovered in the cartonnage "Phaedo" °^ ^ mummy-case. Also the only extant portion of Hyperides' oration against Philippides, written in the first century B. C, is here preserved. Triumphal Odes and Dithyrambs^ by Bacchylides, the only extant manuscript of the poet except one small fragment; portions of Homer's Iliad and Odyssey, all found in Egypt, and dating from the first century B. C, are here exhibited. Aristotle on the Constitution of Athens, the only extant manuscript of the work except some small fragments, and dating from the firs^ Christian century, is also shown. ' The sayings of Jesus was an interesting document consisting o|- a collection of sayings written on the back of a roll previously us^4 for another purpose. It was found at Oxyrhyncus in Jesus 1903. A leaf of a papyrus book cohtaining the saip<6 or a similar collection had previously beeXi found in th$ same place, and the compilation probably dates f:^onj the beginning of the second century A. D., or possibly even from the ;iirst; century. The 30 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS pari exhibited contains the introduction of the work, as follows : "These «ire the (wonderful?) words which Jesus the living (lord) spake to . . . and Thomas, and he said unto (them). Every one that hark- ens to these words shall never taste of death." It Is written In uni- form uncials of the latter part of the third century. Another papyrus manuscript gives an account of receipts received from passengers and freight carried by boats on the canal by Ptole- mais, stating the amount due the royal treasury. It Is dated in the twenty-second year, probably of Ptolemy Euergetes, B. C. 226-5. Scores of other interesting documents also claimed our attention, while hundreds of others we were obliged to pass by for lack of time. I can here mention only a few of the things which we saw there. The most important of all the manuscripts we saw is a volume of the celebrated "Codex Alexandrinus," written in uncial letters on vel- lum probably in the middle of the fifth century A. D. Alexandrinus" ^^ formerly belonged to the Patriarchal Chamber of Alexandria (whence its name is derived), and was presented to King Charles I by the Patriarch of Constantinople, in 1627. It contains both the Old and New Testaments and the epistles of Clement of Rome. With the exception of a few small fragments, there are only two Greek manuscripts of the Bible which are older than this one — Codex Vaticanus, in the Vatican Library at Rome, dating from the fourth century, and Codex Sinaiticus, discovered by Tischen- dorf at Mount Sinai In 1844, the greater part of which is in the Im- perial Library at Petrograd. It also dates from the fourth century, and is believed by some to be one of the fifty copies of the Scriptures wrhich the Emperor Constantine directed made for use In the churches. ^(Facsimile pages of the two last-named manuscripts are exhibited in -connection with Codex Alexandrinus for the sake of comparison. Among the historical documents shown is the Original Bull of I Pope Lao XI, conferring on King Henry VIII of England the title "Defender of the Faith," which title has been re- Documents tained by the English sovereigns until the present day. The Bull is dated at Rome in the ninth year of Leo's pontificate (1521), and is signed by the Pope and many of his car- dinals. The occasion for this grant to Henry will probably be remem- bered by the reader. When the continental reformers of that century began preaching the gospel and opposing the errors of Romanism, Henry VIII set himself in opposition to them, and wrote a book against Luther ; and the Pope, in gratitude for the service rendered, gave EASTWARD TO SYRIA 31 Henry the title, "Defender of the jFaith." A little later, however, when Henry desired a divorce from his wife, Catherine of Aragon, in order that he might marry Anne Boleyn, and the Pope refused to recognize the decree which was given by the universities ; then Henry cast off the papal authority entirely, as a result of which the church of England became independent of the Romish hierarchy. Many royal autographs are exhibited, a few of which I shall men- tion: a letter written by Catherine of Aragon, queen of Henry VIII, to the king, then in France, with news of the battle of Auto^aphs Flodden, dated Sept. 16, 1513 ; a letter by Henry VIII to Cardinal Wolsey, dated March, 1518; a letter from Anne Boleyn to Cardinal Wolsey, written before her marriage to Henry; a letter from Lady Jane Grey, dated from the Tower, July 10, 1553; also autographs of Queen Elizabeth, James I, Oliver Cromwell, the Emperor Charles V, Henry IV, King of Navarre, Louis XIV of France, Peter the Great of Russia, Frederick the Great of Prussia, and Napoleon I. Among the historical autographs and papers is a draft of the Act of Parliament known as the "Six Articles," which was passed at the instigation of Henry VIII, in 1541. Although Henry Historical *' ' , , ° *' AutoeraBhs threw off the papal yoke, he had no intention of grant- ing religious liberty to his subjects; in fact, he sought by this Act of Parliament, known afterwards as the "bloody statute," to maintain Rome's theological tenets. It enacted that if any one should deny the doctrine of transubstantiation he should be burned; and that if any one should affirm that priests might marry or that auricular confession was not expedient, etc., he should be guilty of felony. The draft of these articles exhibited is in a secretary's hand- writing with autograph corrections by Henry; the fifth is entirely in Henry's handwriting. Other autograph letters of historical import are by Sir Thomas More, Hugh Latimer, Mary Queen of Scots, Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir Francis Bacon, Sir Robert Walpole, William Pitt, Warren Hastings, Edmund Burke, Charles James Fox, Richard Sheri- •den, Benjamin Disraeli, Duke of Wellington regarding the cavalry Tinder his command at the battle of Waterloo, and a sketch-plan of the Battle of Aboukir generally called the Nile (August 1, 1798) drawn l)y Lord Nelson himself. In the corner of the last-mentioned document is the following attestation : "This was drawn by Lord Viscount Nelson's left hand, the only remaining one, in my presence, this Friday, Feb. 18th, 1803, at No. 23 Picadilly, the house of Sir William Hamilton, late embassador at Naples, who was present. Alexander Stephens." S2 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Among the autograph literary works we found the memorandum book of Sir Francis Bacon, and Sir Walter Raleigh's Journal of his Second Voyage to Guiana. The failure of this expedition, and the acts of hostility against Spain done in the course of it, led to his execution shortly after his return home. Of peculiar interest was John Milton's personal Bible, on the fly- leaf of which are entered the births, etc., of himself and _° J^ members of his family. Some of these were written by his own hand; the rest were written by others after he became blind. And we also saw the original notes used by William Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, when he made his first pub- lic statement (April 16, 1616) regarding his discovery; the diary and note-book of the philosopher John Locke, and the original manuscript of "The Compleat English Gentleman," by Daniel Defoe, who is bet- ter known, however, as the author of Robinson Crusoe; the "Memoirs" of Edward Gibbon, showing the place where he states how he received the first impulse to write his "Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire" : "It was at Rome, on the 15th of October, 1764, as I sat musing amidst the ruins of the capital, while the barefooted friars were singing ves- pers in the Temple of Jupiter, that I conceived the first thought of my history" ; the autograph manuscript of Sir Walter Scott's "Kenil- worth," corrected for the press ; some original autograph works of Lord Byron, Shelley, Chas. Dickens, and Lord Macauley's article on "Warren Hastings," contributed to the Edinburg Review; George Eliot's original manuscript "Adam Bede" ; Herbert Spencer's "Data of Ethics" ; William Cowper's "History of John Gilpin," in the poet's own hand. Of more than ordinary interest is the original articles of agreement, dated April 27, 1667, between John Milton and Samuel Symmons, a printer, for the sale of the copyright of a Ljjg^,, "poem entitled 'Paradise Lost.' " The amount agreed on was £5 (a little less than $25) down, and three further payments of £5 each on the sale of three editions of 1,300 copies each. Signed, "John Milton," with his seal of arms affixed. I also spent considerable time examining the autographs of other literary men with whose names I had become familiar. Among the number, I shall mention Shakespeare, Dryden, Sir Isaac Newton, Joseph Addison, Pope, Swift, David Hume, John Wesley, Coleridge, Carlyle, Darwin, Dickens, Tennyson, Erasmus, Martin Luther, Melanchthon, John Calvin, Galileo, Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, EASTWARD TO SYRIA 33 Leibnitz, Kant, Goethe. A portion of Handel's original manuscript of the anthem, "As Pants the Heart," is exhibited; also fugue in A flat, by Bach ; score of the 180th Psalm, by Mozart ; sketch of music of "Adelaide," by Beethoven; sonata in F minor (op. 14), by Schu- mann; "Fantasia" sonata in G (op. 78), by Schubert; setting of the 18th Psalm, by Mendelssohn; and sketch of the "People's Chorus," melody and bass only, by Wagner. With a brief reference to three or four royal books exhibited, 1 will close this description of our visit to the Museum. One small volume, containing the penitential Psalms, Litany, etc., in Latin, with autograph inscriptions by Henry VIII and Cardinal Wolsey; also a metrical version of the penitential and other Psalms, in English, containing a portrait of Henry VIII. This volume is said to have been given by Queen Anne Boleyn when on the scaffold, to one of her maids. So this unhappy queen carried until the hour of her death, the photograph of her husband, who committed her to the block that he might be free to marry Jane Sey- mour the following day. Another small volume has on the fly-leaf some Scriptural verses written by Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, "frome the toware [the tower] the day before my dethe, 1551." He was executed later. A small Manual of Prayers is also shown, written on vellum, and used by Lady Jane Grey on the scaffold, Feb. 12, 1554. TOWER OF LONDON Our visit to the Tower of London was full of interesting things. This celebrated fortress was founded in A. D. 1078 by William the Conqueror for the purpose of protecting and controlling the city. It covers about thirteen acres and is surrounded by a wall flanked with massive towers, outside of which there is a moat, or very wide ditch, now dry. There is also an inner wall broken by towers and other buildings. In the center is the "White Tower," the keep of the old fortress, around which are grouped the chapel, jewel-house, barracks, and other buildings. While the Tower would not be re- garded as possessing any great military strength in these days of improved military equipment, still it was a first-class medieval fort- ress. It has been used as a fortress, a palace, and a prison. It was occupied as a palace by all of the kings and queens down to Charles II. The security of the place, however, naturally made it convenient for lodging state prisoners. Many of these were brought in through an entrance called the "Traitor's Gate," on the side next to the river Thames. Under this very arch of solid masonry many prominent per- 34 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS sons passed in to spend a long, dreary confinement in the Tower, or to be led forth to the scaffold. Among the number may be men- tioned Sir Thomas More, Edward, Duke of Buckingham, Queen Anne Boleyn, Cromwell, Duke of Essex, Queen Catherine Howard, Lady Jane Grey, Princess (afterwards Queen) Elizabeth^ and Edward Seymour. The Tower of Iiondon In front of the Traitor's Gate, and comprising a part of the inner wall, is the "Bloody Tower," the upper story of which opens on the parade ground, formerly the constable's garden, where Bloody Tower g.^ Walter Raleigh was allowed to walk during his long confinement. Bloody Tower is believed to be the scene of the murder of Edward V and his brother, and Henry VI. In another part of this wall, between the Beauchamp and Bell Towers, is the house of Partridge, the chief warder, where Lady Jane . Grey lived while a prisoner. Here from an outside window she saw her hus- band led out to execution on Tower Hill, outside of the walls, and his headless body brought in through the gate to the Chapel of St. Peter, past the place on the Green within the walls where her own scaffold was being erected for the dread work of execution, which took place on the same day, Feb. 12, 1554. They were buried in this EASTWARD TO SYRIA 35 chapel, as were also Queen Anne and Queen Catherine, all four beheaded. In a circular apartment called the Wakefield Tower the crown jewels and other splendid objects which form the English regalia are preserved. The king's crown is perhaps the most Wakefield conspicuous object in the case. It was originally made Crovra Jewels ^°^ Queen Victoria's coronation, in 1838, but the chief jewels which were placed in it were taken from older crowns. Among the number is a fine ruby given to the Black Prince by Peter the Cruel after the battle of Navarette, April 3, 1367. It was worn by Henry V on his helmet at the battle of Agincourt in 1415. The crown was enlarged for the coronation of King Henry VII and contained 2,818 diamonds, 297 pearls, and many other jewels. After the discovery in South Africa of the CuUinan rough diamond, the largest diamond ever found, measuring slightly over four inches in length, the Transvaal government presented it to the English, and it was cut in two, one large oblong brilliant weighing 309 3-16 carats was placed in the king's crown, which was altered for the purpose; while the other part, the largest cut diamond in the world, weighing 516 1-2 carats, was placed in the royal sceptre with the cross of gold and jewels, also on exhibition here. Here also we saw St. Ed- ward's crown, which was made for the coronation of Charles II; and the baptismal font and basin of silver-gilt, also made for him in 1660-61, and used at the christening of the sovereign's children. One of the last occasions when it was used was at the christening of King Edward VII at St. George's Chapel, Windsor. Many other articles were also shown. While looking at this splendid collection of royal regalia, the earthly value of which can scarcely be estimated, I could not avoid thinking of the sorrowful history of some of the English sovereigns who have used these very things. Surely it requires more than glittering crowns and royal sceptres to bring happiness into human lives. Though we shall never be decked with regal splendor in Westminster, thank God! we have the heavenly assurance of "a crown of glory that fadeth not away." The White Tower occupies the central location and is the oldest part of the fortress. It is irregular in plan, the four sides being of different lengths ; and three of the corners are not right angles. Nevertheless, it looks square, and its four towers, one on each corner, give the structure an imposing ap- pearance and is the principal feature by which we first distinguish the Tower of London. It is 90 feet in height from the. floor to the bat- 36 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS tlements. The interior is of the plainest and sternest character, almost every feature of comfort as a place in which to live being sacrificed for the one purpose of securing greater strength and security. The outer walls, which are of stone, vary in thickness from 15 feet in the lower stories to 11 feet in the upper. Ascending a stairway within one of the walls we came to a passage which led to the Chapel of St. John, which is said to be the largest and most complete chapel remaining in any Norman castle. It is 55 feet long, 31 feet wide, and 32 feet high. Emerging from this chapel, we entered the Armory, where there is exhibited an immense collection of arms and armor formerly used. I shall not attempt to give an extended description of the thousands of interesting things to be seen here, but shall briefly refer to only a few things. An equestrian figure is dressed in a splendid suit of armor given to Henry VIII by the Emperor Max- imilian, in 1514. The armor is engraved with roses, pomegranates and other objects, and has on the metal skirt the initials H. & K^, referring to Henry and his first queen Katherine of Aragon. There is also a suit of armor belonging to James II, all the pieces of which bear the king's initials. Here also are exhibited curious instruments of torture once employed, some of them even in this tower. We saw a beheading-axe which has been here since 1687 and the identical chopping-block on which Lord Lovat lost his head. The print of the axe used at his execu- °^^T,i „i tion is plainly visible on the face of the block. We are informed that Lovat's head was severed by a single blow of the executioner. But there are two marks on the block; per- haps the same block was used for two executions. I had often read about the chopping-blocks, but never understood how they were formed so as to allow the neck of the victim to rest firmly on the block as would be necessary. But I observed here that the face of the block was narrow at the place of contact with the neck, two sides being hollowed out to allow for the shoulder and head. An involuntary shudder crept over me as I looked at this thing and felt the edge of the wicked axe. I could not help appreciating the differ- ence between the circumstances under which we made this examination and those under which Sir Walter Raleigh made it. Condemned to death on the block, he first felt the edge of the axe, and then said, "This is a sharp medicine, but it is a sure cure for all diseases." We next passed the Beauchamp Tower, situated in the inner wall. In plan it is semicircular, three stories high. We ascended by a wind- EASTWARD TO SYRIA 3T Beauchamp ing stairway to the middle chamber, which is of con- Tower and siderable size. Here many prominent persons were Prisoners imprisoned. Having but little to. engage their atten- tion during the weary days of confinement, some of them have left records in the form of inscriptions cut in the walls of their prison. A few of these inscriptions are in the entrance passage and on the stair, but the most of them are in the room of which I now speak. On the ground floor near the entrance is robart dvdley. When his father was brought to the block in 1553, Robert, who was Qondemned to die the next year, remained here with his brother, but Houses of Farliaiuent and Westminster HaU was afterwards released. At the entrance to this chamber is a carved cross and other emblems with the name peverel, 1570, supposed to have been cut by a Roman Catholic prisoner confined during the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Another inscription in Latin reads : "The more suffering for Christ in this world the more glory with Christ in the next," signed arundel, June 22, 1587. This was Philip Howard, whose father was beheaded in 1573. Philip inherited the earldom or Arundel, and being a staunch Roman Catholic was confined in this place, where he died after an imprisonment of ten years. On the wall ];iear the fireplace is an elaborate piece of sculpture carved by John Dudley, who died in 1554. It is a memorial of his four brothers, one 38 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS of whom (Robert) I have already mentioned. They occupy prominent places in English history, therefore this memorial is aU the more interesting. Ambrose was created Earl of Warwick in 1561 ; Guil- ford was the husband of Lady Jane Grey, and was beheaded in 1554; Robert, after his release, was created Earl of Leicester in 1563, and Henry was kiUed at the siege of St. Quentin in 1558. "Under a bear and a lion supporting a ragged staff is the name of john dvdley, and surrounding them is a wreath of roses (for Ambrose), oak leaves (for Robert, robur, an oak), gillyflowers (for Guilford), and honey- suckles (for Henry). Below are four lines, one of them incomplete, alluding to the device and its meaning." In the window is a mono- gram of Thomas Abel. It is a bell with the letter A on it. Dr. Abel was the servant of Queen Catherine of Aragon, first wife of Henry VIII, and acted as her chaplain during the progress of the divorce proceedings. He thus incurred the displeasure of the king, and for denying the supremacy was condemned and executed in 1540. Passing out of this tower into the open space intervening between the White Tower and the Chapel of St. Peter, called Tower Green, we came to a small square plot, paved with granite by the orders of Queen Victoria. On this spot stood the scaffold upon which private executions took place. The usual place of execution was on Tower Hill, outside of the walls. On this spot, however, within the walls, the following persons were executed: Lord Hastings, Place of Private -t^ooa-di j ptt ^tttt Executions ^^ 14od; Anne Boleyn, second queen or Henry VIll, May 19, 1536; Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, May 27, 1541; Catherine Howard, fifth queen of Henry VIII, Feb. 13, 1642; Jane Viscountess Rockford, Feb, 13, 1542; Lady Jane Grey, Feb. 12, 1554; and Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, Feb. 25, 1601. These were all beheaded with an axe except Queen Anne Boleyn, whose head was cut off with a sword. They were all buried in the Chapel of at. Peter, adjacent. We obtained a view of Buckingham Palace, the London residence of the king, but as no admittance was permitted, there was not much _ , . ^ , to see. We also saw the houses of parliament, and Palace visited St. Paul's Cathedral and some other places of interest to travelers; but I will describe only our visit to Westminster Abbey. / WESTMINSTER ABBEY There is but one Westminster Abbey, and a few houi;;s spent in this place of historic interest will never be forgotten. The Abbey, a EASTWARD TO SYRIA 39 Burial-place of the Great church, is a remarkable piece of architecture, built in the form of the Latin cross, with some modifications. It is the creation of centuries, still it is mainly the work of King Henry III. It was opened for serv- ices in A. D. 1269, and took the place of another church which was the work of Edward the Confessor, who died a few days after its dedi- cation, Dec. 28, 1065. It is also certain that the church which the Confessor built on this spot was the successor of a still earlier one which had been es- tablished there at least as early as A. D. 960. The re- puted founder is Sebert, King of Essex (died A. D. 616), whose tomb is still shown in the sanctuary. It is generally known that Westminster Abbey is a bur- ial - place of kings, queens, and the great of many centuries, but how it came to possess its unequaled historic interest is not so generally known. The palace of Edward the Confessor stood close to the church which he erected here, and he designated it as his place of burial, and was interred before its altar shortly after its dedication, as already noted. The Norman kings, monks, and clergy vied with each other in honoring his name; and when England was oppressed under a foreign yoke the people looked back to the reign of the pious Confessor, the last king of the old English stock, as to a golden age. So highly was Place of ^j^.g ^g^^ "saint" esteemed that kings thought that Coronation . ,•> •£ of Kings their coronation rites received special sanctity it per- formed by his grave; and so it has come to pass that every reigning sovereign from the time of William the Conqueror (1066) until the present day has been crowned in this place. I have already referred to the fact that Henry III began the work of building the present church and that it was dedicated in 1269, Westminster ATjliey 40 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS but he did not entirely remove the church which preceded it, leaving the greater part of the nave still standing. He removed the Norman choir, transepts and central tower, and in place of the low Norman structure erected the present magnificent building, which is the high- est church in England, being 103 feet from the floor to the top of the vaulting. The alteration of the nave from the low former struc- ture to the present style was the work of later centuries. Henry VIII removed the body of the "saint" to the most sacred quarter of the new struc- ture. He then chose his own burial-place on the north side of the stately shrine in which he had placed the body of the Confessor, and later his queen and his son, Edward I, were also buried there; and thus king after king, and many oth- er persons of prominence, were interred in this church. No other spot on the earth can claim with certainty the exact burial-place of such a large list of the world's great men and women. Rome, Athens, Jeru- salem, ancient Memphis, and Babylon were the centers of re- markable civilizations which gave birth to mighty men, yet Westminster Afebey cuoir f^j. ^he most part we know but little of their final resting-places ; but here in Westminster we tread over the very graves of the illustrious of past ages. As already observed, the general form of this church is the Latin cross. The part corresponding to the foot or upright piece is styled the Nave; the transverse beam is termed North Size of Transept and South Transept respectively. The or- the Abbey gan and choir occupy a part of the nave just below the transverse section, while the part corresponding to the head of the cross contains the Sanctuary, back of which stands the Confessor's Chapel. Around the head of the cross, thus formed, are grouped some small chapels, artistically arranged; while beyond EASTWARD TO SYRIA 41 the Confessor's Chapel at the ordinary end of the cross there is a further extension termed Henry VII's Chapel. The plan of the Avhole is indeed beautiful. The extreme length of the Abbey is 530 feet, and the height of the western towers to the top of the pinnacles is 225 feet. In addition to the many prominent persons who are buried in the Abbey, there are also many monuments to others who are buried else- where. As Addison said concerning the Abbey: "In the poetical quarter I found there were poets who had no monuments, and monu- ments which had no poets." As my chief interest was in ascertaining the actual graves, I shall pass by most of the monuments in this de- scription and simply refer to some who are interred here. Entering the Abbey by the west front, we found ourselves in the nave. Passing down the center we came to the gravestone of George Peabody, who was buried beneath this floor, but whose remains were afterwards removed to his native town in Massachusetts. Further along we passed over the grave of Richard Trench, formerly Dean of Westminster, and then we came to the grave of Livingstone David Livingstone. Here we paused. We were on our way to fields of missionary effort ; and now as we stood by the last earthly resting-place of that godly missionary to Africa, we could scarcely refrain from weeping, out of gratefulness to God for such an example of self-denial. Before our minds passed the vision of the years of earnest toil Livingstone spent in darkest Africa until death overtook him while alone, kneeling in prayer; of the long march of the faithful natives who carried his body to the coast; of its shipment to England to be laid away in this very spot beneath our feet. Passing over many others, we came to the grave of Sir Isaac New- ton, the greatest mathematician of modern times. His remarkable discoveries and contributions to science are known to of Sir ^ ^^^ ^^^ world. His body lay in state in the Jerusalem Isaac Newton chamber of the Abbey, and was followed to its rest- ing-place before the choir screen, one of the most con- spicuous places in the Abbey, by all the royal society and many others of the world's greatest men. Voltaire has left us an account of the impression made upon his mind on that occasion. He says, "If all the geniuses of the universe should be assembled, Newton would lead the band." A monument was erected near his grave, and Pope wrote an inscription for it, ending in the somewhat extravagant lines, Nature and Nature's laws lay hid in night: Grod said, Let Newton be! and all was light." This inscription, however, was never placed there. 42 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Close by the side of Newton lies the body of Sir William Thomp- son, better known to the world as Lord Kelvin. I can not here enu- Lord Kelvin merate his many achievements in the realm of science, Major Andre, to which he devoted his long life ; it is sufficient to state Lyell, Herschel, tj^at }^q belongs in the same class with Newton. In the north aisle of the nave, only a few feet from the grave of Richard Trench, lies the body of Sir Charles Lyell, the great geologist. In the same aisle, near the organ loft, and close to Newton and Kelvin, lie, side by side, the remains of Sir John Frederick Herschel and Charles Robert Darwin — the former celebrated for his astronomical observations of the heavens ; the latter for his theory of the evolution of species. In the south aisle of the nave, near the organ loft, is buried the body of Major John Andre, whose name is connected with the history of the American revolution. It will be remembered that Andre, dressed in civilian's clothes and bearing sus- picious papers was captured within the American lines and hanged as a spy. He was buried on the bank of the Hudson, but forty years later his remains were removed to Westminster Abbey. Continuing our way along the south aisle past the choir, we saw the monuments which had been erected to Dr. Isaac ,Watts, the father Poets' Corner °^ modern hymnody, and to John and Charles Wesley, and then we entered the South Transept. Turning to the right, we crossed over to the Poets' Comer. The first tomb to which my attention was called was one in the wall bearing the name of CHAUCER, the author of the immortal "Canterbury Tales," and who is called "the father of English poetry." He was born about 1340 and died in 1400. While looking at Chaucer's monument and think- ing of its age we happened to look beneath our feet, and found that we were standing over the graves of Lord Tennyson and Robert Brown- ing, the two greatest English poets of the last generation. Other gravestones in the South Transept belong to the following persons: Richard Sheridan, the orator; Samuel Johnson, LL.D., the lexicog- rapher; and Sir Henry Irving. Of special interest is one "Thomas Parr, of ye county of Sallop, borne in A. D. 1493. He lived in the reigns of ten princes; viz., King Edward IV, King Edward V, King Richard HI, King Henry VII, King Henry VIII, King Edward VI, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, King James, and King Charles; aged 152 years and was buryed here November 15, 1635." Here, also lie Charles Dickens; George Crete, the Greek historian; and Lord Ma- caulay, the English historian. Crossing over to the North Transept, we came to the graves of EASTWARD TO SYRIA 43 Charles James Fox, the whig orator and leader of the House of Commons, and of William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, who was his bitter rival, but who, dying the same year, were buried close together in this place. Pitt, it will be remembered, opposed the government with ref- erence to the severance of the American colonies, and Transevt °^ ^^^ ^^^^ appearance in the House of Lords he de- livered an impassioned appeal against "the dismem- berment of this ancient and noble monarchy," when he fell down in a fit, and died a few weeks afterwards. The younger Pitt was also buried in the same grave twenty-eight years later. Near the Pitts lies the body of William Wilberforce, who will always be remembered for his stand against the unnatural institution of human slavery. In 1791 he sought to introduce in the English Parliament a bill forbid- ding the further importation of African negroes in the British colonies, and year after year he pressed this measure until it was finally passed in 1807. Not satisfied with this, he devoted his entire energies to bring about the total abolition of slavery; and three days before his death (in 1833) he was informed that Parliament had passed the bill which extinguished the practise in the British colonies. Here also lies George Canning, the orator, and in the center of the aisle William E. Gladstone, the statesman. The upper or "head" portion of the cross is doubtless the most remarkable and the most interesting part of the Abbey. I have already stated that in the center of this part of the church "Head" of . . the Cross stands the Sanctuary with the Confessor's Chapel im- mediately back of it. On each side of this central chapel are aisles, termed North Ambulatory and South Ambulatory respectively ; while on the outside of these aisles are some small chapels, four of which are semi-circular in form, giving a beautiful artistic effect. From the South Transept we entered the South Ambulatory. Here on the left is an arched recess containing the supposed tomb of King Sebert, the traditional founder of the Ab- Ambulatory ^^J^ ^ho died in 616 A. D. That the remains of this king are really here, however, has not been es- tablished with historic certainty. But this much is sure; his grave has always been shown since the erection of this building, and is also said to contain the bones of his queen, Ethelgoda. When King Henry HI was rebuilding the church, he temporarily removed the stone coffin containing these remains, and in 1308 it was replaced with great ceremony in its present place. On the right-hand side of this aisle, under an arch in the wall between the small Chapel of St. 44 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Benedict and the semicircular Chapel of St. Edmund, is a tomb con- taining the remains of Katherine (died 1257, aged five years) and three other children of Henry III; also four children of Edward I, which were afterwards placed here. I shall omit a description of the small chapels on our right as we passed eastward along this South Ambulatory. We continued our way around to the extreme eastern end of the Con- " Shrine" fessor's Chapel on our left and here entered. The chief object of attention was the Confessor's "shrine." In many of the great churches of the middle ages it was customary to place immediately behind the High Altar a shrine containing the relics of the patron saint or great benefactor of the church. In Westminster this shrine contains the body of Edward the Confessor, who has an historic claim to being its founder. The Confessor died in 1066 and was buried before the High Altar, and the Conqueror erected a handsome tomb over his body. After Henry III completed his part of the present building, he and his brother carried on their shoulders the body of the Confessor to its present resting-place, in 1269. To this shrine many pious pilgrimages were afterwards made. "Each anniversary, during three centuries, Avas solemnized with the greatest splendor, and witnessed a vast accumulation of jewels, and images of gold and silver, offered by the pious of all degrees. Not only on this day, but at Christmas, Easter, and Whitsuntide, the shrine was the scene of prayer and pomp. Strict observers of the anniversary obtained indulgences of nineteen years and one hundred and three days, and a seventh part of their sins was wiped away." Around the shrine rest the bodies of five kings and six queens. On the south side in the center is the tomb of Edward III, and at his feet „ , , his wife, Philippa of Hainault. Near him rest Richard Tombs around tt j /-w * p ^ t • -r ^ n <. the Shrine ^^ ^^^ Queen Anne oi Bohemia. In the eastern end of this chapel are Henry V and his queen. On the south side lie Henry III and Edward I. Henry IV was kneeling here before the shrine when he was attacked by his last illness, and was carried into the Jerusalem Chamber in the Abbey. He was about to start on a trip to the Holy Land, but lived merely long enough to express satisfaction that since he could not die in the city of Jerusalem he was glad to pass away in the Jerusalem Chamber. Another object in this chapel, possessing more than ordinary in- terest, is the Coronation Chair. It was made by Edward I to enclose the famous "stone of Scone," which he seized in 1297 and brought from Scotland to the Abbey. The stone is twenty-six inches long, sixteen EASTWARD TO SYRIA 4.5 inches wide, arid eleven inches thick, and is held in the bottom of the chair by iron clamps. The traditional accounts of this stone are in- «!. • terestinff. It was said to be the stone upon which Jacob- Coronation Chair o ^ ^,,-.-1, •!•. . rested his head at Bethel; Jacob's sons carried it to Egypt ; and from thence it passed to Spain with King Gathelus, son of Cecrops. About 700 B. C. Simon Brech, the Spanish king's son, car- ried it to Ireland on his invasion of that island. There it was placed upon the sacred hill Tara and called the fatal stone, or "stone of des- tiny" ; for when the Irish kings were seated upon it at their coronation, the stone would groan aloud if the claimant was of the royal race, but if he was a pretender, it would remain silent. The founder of the Scottish monarchy received it into Scotland and deposited it in the monastery of Scone. These traditions concerning the stone may be set aside, however, for geologists have shown that it is only Scotch sandstone; but it is certain that for centuries it was an object of veneration to the Scots, and that upon it their kings were crowned down to John Balliol. When Edward seized this stone, in 1297, he had a magnificent oak chair built over it, and in this very chair and over this identical stone all of the kings and queens of England have been crowned from that day down to the present king, George V. It has never been removed from the Abbey except once, when Oliver Cromwell was installed in it as Lord Protector, in Westminster Hall. Leaving the Confessor's Chapel through the northern entrance, we passed eastward along the North Ambulatory and mounted the steps leading up to the Chapel of Henry VII. This chapel, Henrv VII ^® ^ have already observed, forms the extreme eastern part of the church, and is an extension of the "head" of the cross proper. This chapel is also arranged in the form of a cross. Instead of advancing at once to the heart of the chapel, we first passed along the aisle on the south side of the nave, and paused at the resting-place of Mary Queen of Scots, who was beheaded in 1587. She was a dangerous claimant of the English crown and was thus Queen Elizabeth's deadliest foe. She was captured by the English, and after nineteen years' imprisonment, was executed. Her remains were at first buried elsewhere, but James I afterwards had them brought to West- minster that the "like honor might be done to the body of his dearest mother and the like monument be extant of her that had been done to others and to his dear sister, the late Queen Elizabeth." "By a strange irony of fate the two queens rest opposite one another in the north and south aisles of the chapel, and their monuments, which closely resemble each other, were both erected by the impartial James I." A 46 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS little farther along in this south aisle is a royal vault in which are buried: Charles II; Queen Mary II and her husband, William of Orange, who (in 1689) were crowned here as joint sovereigns; and Queen Anne, the second daughter of James II. Entering the nave, we advanced to the heart of the chapel, and ap- proached the tomb of its founder, Henry VII and his queen, Elizabeth 11 Vaiilt °^ York. Here also lie the remains of the king who first united the Scotts and the English — James I. Five small chapels form the apse of Henry VII's Chapel, but I shall notice only the central one, forming the "head" of the cross. Here is the Cromwell vault. During the Commonwealth some of the great leaders of the re- bellion died and were buried here. The body of Cromwell lay in ?tate at Somerset House, and from thence was conveyed to the Abbey by an immense train of mourners, and placed here. Ireton, Bradshaw, and several of the relatives and friends of the Protector were also interred here. But when the Stuarts were restored to power again in the person of Charles II, the royalists sought for vengeance. Thirteen of the judges who had passed sentence upon Charles I, condemning him to death and opening the way for the establishment of the Commonwealth, were executed with the most revolting cruelty, their hearts and bowels being cut out of their living bodies. But death had already removed the leaders of the rebellion, so the royalists took vengeance upon their bodies. Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw were dragged from their resting-place here in the Abbey, hauled to the Tyburn in London, where they were hanged and afterwards beheaded, and their heads set on Westminster Hall. Their companions were merely reinterred in an- other place. Strangely enough, the remains of Elizabeth Claypole, Cromwell's favorite daughter, were left undisturbed north of Henry VII's tomb. The northeastern chapel (one of the five small ones) con- tains the remains of Anne of Denmark, queen of James I. Returning to the entrance to the nave of Henry VII's Chapel, we turned aside to enter the north aisle. Passing over the grave of Joseph Addison, we came to the white marble tomb erected by beth's Toml) James I over Queen Elizabeth, beneath whose coffin rests the remains of her half-sister. Queen Mary. The eastern end of the aisle is called "Innocent's Corner." Here lie the remains of two children of James I — Princess Sophia and Princess Mary. A small sarcophagus contains the bones found at the foot of the staircase in the Tower, placed here by order of Charles II, in 1674, in the belief that they were those of Edward V and his brother Richard, supposed to have been murdered by their uncle in 1483. "Edward V may be EASTWARD TO SYRIA 4.7 called the child of Westminster, having been born in the Sanctuary, where his mother, Elizabeth WoodviUe, took refuge in 1470." Returning to the entrance to Henry VII's Chapel, we descended the steps, turned to the right, and entered the North Ambulatory. Here we passed over a vault containing the historian Clarendon and many of his relatives. The Confessor's Chapel, already ^bulatory described, was on our left, and on the right the semi- circular Chapel of St. Paul, wherein lies the body of Archbishop James Usher, who arranged the chronology that was after- wards connected with the Authorized Version of the Bible. The other small chapels on the right did not engage our attention, and we passed out into the North Transept again, and made our exit at the North Front. Our visit in Westminster Abbey was now ended. But I shall never forget one thought that was deeply impressed upon my mind on that day, and that is the utter vanity of human greatness. Here lie to- gether in silence scientists, who in life opposed each other; statesmen, who were bitter rivals ; kings and queens who murdered and executed others, or were executed by others — all lying together in this "temple of reconciliation and peace." Mortality, behold and fear! What a change of flesh is here! Think how many Eoyal bones Sleep within these heaps of stones. Here they lie, had realms and lands, Who now want strength to stir their hands; * * * Here are sands, ignoble things Dropt from the ruin'd sides of kings: Here 's a world of pomp and state. Buried in dust, once dead by fate. —Beaumont. LONDON TO MILAN. ITALY In company with Brother and Sister Otto Doebert, we left London on the evening of August 15, traveling by train to Folkestone, where Essen, Germany ^^ *^°^ ^ steamer across the North Sea to Flushing, Holland. Arriving early next morning, we proceeded by train to Essen, Germany. At Essen we were met by a number of the brethren and sisters, and we remained with them over the following Sunday. We had some very precious and profitable meetings with them. Accompanied by Brother and Sister Arbeiter we started for Winter- thur, Switzerland, on the morning of August 19. On the way we en- joyed very much the beautiful scenery alon^ the river Rhine. Exten- sive vineyards arranged in terraces up the sides of the high hills added 48 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS to the natural beauty of the landscape, while the sight of the ancient castles brought before our minds in a vivid manner the Switzerland stories we have often read concerning these places of abode during feudal times. We arrived at Winterthur late that night, and were met at the station by a number of brethren and sisters who were glad to welcome Brother and Sister Arbeiter back to their field of former labors, and who also received us cordially and bestowed upon us no little kindness, for which we were truly thankful. We had some very precous services with them in their chapel. On the morning of August 22 we bade them farewell and renewed our journey toward Syria. We changed cars at Zurich. While waiting at the station, I could not avoid thinking of the past associations of this city, it being the center of the preaching of the reformer Ulrich Zwingli, "^ in the sixteenth century. And I also remembered with sadness the fact that here, as elsewhere, the early reformers failed to grasp the true idea of religious liberty, and as a result the persecutions of papal Rome were perpetuated to a remarkable extent. Before Zurich itself was entirely free from the encroachments of Romanism, its Prot- estant council condemned a young man named Felix Mantz to be drowned because he rejected the infant-sprinkling of Rome, and taught that people ought to be baptized by immersion. This barbarous sent- ence was carried into effect. Zwingli was killed at the battle of Kappal, in 1531, his dying words being, "They can slay only the body, not the soul." The armor which he wore on that occasion is preserved here in the National Museum. We took a through train over the St. Gotthard railway to Milan, Italy. The beautiful Alpine scenery of that day wiU not soon be forgotten. As our train wound around the mountain- pine cenery g-^gg^ crossed over deep ravines on iron bridges, and plunged through tunnel after tunnel, the effect was inspiring. From the darkness of a long tunnel, we would emerge suddenly as into the brilliant light of another new day, and would see far beneath us a lovely mountain lake with quiet dark-blue waters, or perchance a mountain stream, rushing downward over the rocks, leaping from point to point and churning itself into spray and foam ere it reached a place of rest at the bottom ; while far above us towered the snow-capped and snow-streaked mountains with summits glistening in the glory and splendor of the morning's sun. Not alone has Nature richly endowed this part of the world, but our attention was called to the fact that human ingenuity had also EASTWARD TO SYRIA 49 accomplished wonders here. The St. Gotthard railway itself exhibits a most remarkable piece of engineering skill. It was constructed at a cost of about $50,000,000. It has 83 bridges and 79 Gotthard tunnels which have an aggregate length of 29 miles. Railway The railroad reaches its greatest altitude in the famous tunnel of St. Gotthard. This tunnel is the longest in the world. It is about 9 1-4 miles long, 28 feet broad, and 21 feet high, and is laid with double track. It requires from 14 to 20 min- utes for the trains to pass through. Its construction alone cost about $12,000,000. Farther along we passed through Como, the birthplace of the Elder and the Younger Pliny ; also through Monza, where there is a cathedral which was founded in A. D. 590 by Theodolinde, a Lombard queen, and which contains the celebrated "iron crown" of the Lombard kings. MILAN Milan, the capital of Lombardy, is so favorably situated that it has always enjoyed a high decree of prosperity. In Roman times it was one of the largest cities in Italy, and was in importance second only to Rome. Upon our arrival, we proceeded at once to that spot which, above all others, claims the attention of the traveler — the Cathedral. This magnificent Gothic structure is one e a e ra ^^ ^j^^ largest churches in the world, and will hold about 40,000 people. It is built in the form of the Latin cross, meas- uring 477 feet in length. The nave is 155 feet high, the dome 220, and the tower 360. No description which I can give will do justice to this so-called "Eighth wonder of the world." It is built of marble (even the roof being made of this material), and is adorned externally with 98 pinnacles and more than 2,000 statues. Its erection was begun in 1386 — more than 500 years ago — and although it looks complete it is far from being so. In one part of the church our guide showed us nearly two hundred empty niches awaiting statues. The founder of this Cathedral gave the quarries from which the marble is taken; so there has been but little expense for material. Still the cost up to the present date has been more than $110,000,000, It is difficult to comprehend the vastness of such a sum of money. The pavement of the whole church within is laid out in mosaic style. The roof is supported by 52 large fluted columns, or pillars of marble, the height of which, reckoning the bases and the capital is about 72 feet; and their diameter is 8 feet. Jutting out from the walls, are 50 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS EASTWARD TO SYRIA 51 On the Roof of the Cathedral half-columns corresponding to the whole ones and also serving to sup- port the Gothic vaults. The walls are about 8 feet thick. The capitals of the columns are adorned with statues, some containing 8 large ones, and others 16, 24, 32, or 48 smaller ones. The ceiling of the vaults appears to be sculptured, but it is in reality painted. Over the 5 entrance doors are 5 large windows filled with glass painted by Bertini^ who revived the lost art of painting on glass. The inte- rior of the cupola or dome is adorned with 60 statues and bas-reliefs, and the entire inte- rior of the church contains something like 1,000 statues, swelling the entire number con- nected with the Cathedral to more than 3,000. Arriving at the staircase, we ascended 158 steps and found our- selves on th e roof of the tem- ple. Here we were surrounded by a forest of spires and glis- tening statues. But we did not stop here. We continued to mount higher until, having as- cended 328 Steps, we reached the platform of the great cu- pola. Here we had a com- manding view of- the entire city, with immense plains stretching out in the distance, the whole sur- rouTided by chains of snow-crowned mountains. Above us was air fixed a very large gilt-copper statue of the Virgin, to whom the tem«- ple is dedicated. This central pyramid is surrounded by 136 smaller^ ones, each adorned with many beautiful statues. "In every angle of the temple the eye is surprised by new beautiesj here the numberless gutters, there the surprising creeping arches ; on this side magnifi- cent galleries, by that astonishing ogee on the parapets of the different stories. The whole is set in order with such a consonant symmetry that the structure appears to emanate by incantation. It is here tha{ the various and picturesque sceneries strike the bewildered eye Interior of Milan Catbedral 52 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS and excite a kind of shivering on looking at the immense space, which is at once embraced." From the Cathedral we took a carriage to the church of St. Am- brose, founded in the fourth century by that renowned father of the church. Here we found ourselves among things truly Ambrose ancient. While many of the decorations are the work of later years, particularly of the twelfth century, still there is preserved much of historic interest antedating these mod- ifications of the original structure. Here we stood before the altar where Ambrose is said to have officiated, and sat in his chair, which, we were told, Charlemagne also occupied while visiting this church. In the aisle to the left of the choir is an inscription from the tomb (now destroyed) of the emperor Louis II, who died in 875 ; and further along is the tombstone of Pepin, son of Charlemagne, who was made king of Italy in 810. From this place, in the year A. D. 313, the Emperor Cotistantine issued his edict of toleration to the Christians, giving Christianity its first legal recognition; and shortly afterwards it became the official religion of the empire, displacing a millennium of Paganism in the Roman State. This church is also famous for its connection with Augustine, another renowned father of the Western church in the fourth century. Augustine's mother was a Christian, but his father was a pagan. In early life he was sent to Carthage to complete his education, but he disappointed his parents by neglect- ing his studies and giving himself up to dissipation and fleshly in- dulgences. Discovering a lost book of Cicero's, called *'Hortensius," he was led to the study of philosophy; but dissatisfied with this, he joined with the Manicheans, but afterwards left them. He went to Rome, and then to Milan, where he became a teacher of rhetoric. Chancing to enter this very church of which I am now writing, he became deeply impressed with the preaching of Ambrose and was converted to the faith of his boyhood. He became very much inter- ested in the epistles of Paul, and through them a complete change was made in his life. At the age of thirty-three, he was baptized by Am- brose, after which he returned to Africa, where he became bishop of Hippo. From this time he is known to us chiefly through his writ- ings, the greatest of which is "The City of God," a vindication of phristianity. He is justly regarded as the father of Roman Catholic theology. ; But I could not avoid thinking of this church as a venerable bat- EASTWARD TO SYRIA 53 tie-ground, as real as Marathon, Arbela, or Austerlitz. Though the nature of the warfare was different, yet at this place, Battle-CTOund within these very walls, raged a conflict, which, had it not been fought to a successful issue on many bat- tle-fields, would have changed the religious history of the world. And herein the noble character and determination of Ambrose manifests itself. When the Arian heresy threatened to sweep out of existence or t h o d o X Chris- tianity, A m b r ose arrayed himself a- gainst it. In this struggle he was op- posed by Justina, mother of Valentin- ian II, and for a time even by the emperor himself and his Gothic troops. But Ambrose re- mained firm, and de- nied the Arians the use o f a single church i n Milan, even when Justina, in the name of her son, demanded that two should be surrendered. Nor was this the only feature of his war- fare. Symmachus, the Prefect of the city, an eloquent orator, was endeavoring to restore the worship of paganism, and this celebrated church father joined issue with him. But it is not in the realm of theologcal controversy alone that the unswerving disposition of Ambrose was displayed. In matters! pertaining to discipline, he was exacting and unyielding, which con-^ vinces us that he was devoted to the principles of justice and honor that he felt obligated in his own conscience to sustain. The manner of his dealing with Emperor Theodosius the Great is an illustration of this point. When a sedition took place in Thessalonica in the year 390, the emperor took revenge upon the offenders by inviting. Church of St. Ambrose M MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS the people to a public exhibition and then turning upon them his soldiers, who slew seven thousand. When Theodosius sought to enter this church in Milan, Ambrose refused to admit a man whose hands were red with the blood of his fellow creatures. "Outside of the church," said Ambrose, "I am your subject, but within the church jou are mine." And so for eight months the great Theodosius was obliged to occupy a humiliating position among other penitents. Florence, Italy The bones of St. Ambrose are still preserved in the crypt of this church, and by paying a certain fee, we could have had the privilege of viewing them. But none of us felt disposed to expend Ambrose ^^^ amount required, for the mere purpose of seeing a dead saint, when it is our happy privilege to be associated with so many living ones. If this ancient father were still living, I should be willing to pay a liberal fee in order to see him and have a talk with him concerning ecclesiastical conditions in the fourth century. FLORENCE "THE ART CITY OF THE WORLD" We left Milan late at night and arrived the next morning in Flor- ence, "the art city of the world." The city is beautifully situated on both sides of the river Arno and is surrounded by hills. It dates EASTWARD TO SYRIA 55 back at least to the first century before Christ and was of considerable importance in Roman times. In ancient times, Rome was the focus of Italian development, but in the middle ages Florence succeeded it as the center of intellectual life. The modern Italian language and literature emanated chiefly from Florence, and the fine arts reached the zenith of their glory here. Among the many il- trio s Men ' lustrious persons of prominence in the world of art, literature, and science, whom this city has produced, are Dante, the poet, author of the "Inferno" ; Petrarch, the poet and scholar; Leonardo da Vinci, painter; Amerigo Vespucci, a maritime discoverer from whom the name America was derived; and Galileo, physicist and astronomer. We proceeded at once to the most famous art gallery, termed Galleria degli UfBzi, one of the greatest collections in the world, both in extent and in value. Here, instead of viewing the works of ama- teurs or mere copies of well-known subjects, we beheld the original works of the greatest masters of the respective arts — works that are almost priceless in value. With the space at my disposal I will only briefly refer to a few of the things exhibited. Here is the Madonna and Child with the Goldfinch, by Raphael, Paintines painted in Florence about 1507, and his Pope Julius II, painted about 1512 ; the painting of hiS first wife, Isabella Brant, by Rubens ; Venus and Cupid, by Tit- ian; Madonna and Saints, by Perugino; the Flight into Egypt, by Correggio; the Holy Family, by Michael Angelo, executed between 1501 and 1505. The richness and beauty of these and other paint- ings by the old masters can not be described with any great degree of satisfaction; they must be seen to be appreciated. Here also are many fine sculptures, among the number an antique one, Satyr, pressing the scabellum with his feet, believed to be the work of Praxiteles, but with head and arms restored Sculptures ^^ Michael Angelo ; thus combining in one piece the work of the chief disciple of Phidias, the greatest of all sculptors, with the work of the greatest sculptor of all succeed- ing ages. Here, also is the antique Venus de Medici, from which many copies have been made ; the ApoUino ; the Dancing Faun ; the Wres- tlers ; and the Group of Niobe and her Children. We also saw the Duomo, or Cathedral, the most famous building in Florence, dating from the thirteenth century; and also saw, bul for lack of time did not enter, the church of St. Croce, which is the burial-place of many eminent Tuscans, containing many tombs of such men as Galileo, Machiavelli, Alfierl, and Michael Angelo. 56 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS PISA After leaving Florence, our next stop was at Pisa, which is lo- cated on the river Arno, six miles from the Mediterranean. It was an ancient Etrurian city, and became a Roman colony in the second century before Christ, and a flourishing city during the first Chris- tian centuries. Here the astronomer Galileo was born of Florentine parents (1564), in a house which is still standing. At the age of Fanoi*an-.a of Fisa, Italy seventeen he entered the University of Pisa, and in 1589 became its professor of mathematics. We first visited the Campanile, or bell tower, commonly known as the "Leaning Tower," a most remarkable piece of architecture, cylin- drical in shape, built of white marble, and with the The "Leaning , . • i j i • „>::--*i ^H';" W ^•r \ IBIjiiiii^K'f" ^ \ ;^ ^^K^l ''VbV'* I ( -»T%H ..'''.• • '*''?^^^^K _ji ■ ^^^^ F ,^;: .;:''^ ^^^^^^s 1 k ■,, ■. ■ ■■ " { si . ■^^' k^i^^^ 1 ■ ' ■ ' -^ *~ 3' ■■■i- _ ■ 1 G. K. Ouzounlan and Family, of Cairo, Egypt 104 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS were also used on the outside. The four sides are so placed as to face the four cardinal points. The Gizeh group consists of nine pyramids, and among them are the three most celebrated of all — the pyramid of Cheops, called the The Great Pyramid at Gizeh The Great Pyramid Great Pyramid, the pyramid of Khafra, and the pyramid of Men- kaura. The base of the Great Pyramid, which occupies thirteen acres, forms a square, each side of which originally measured 768 feet, but now owing to the removal of the outer coating, measures only 750 feet. The outer surface now forms a series of steps averaging about three feet each. This pyramid rises to the height of 451 feet, terminating in a square space containing about twelve square yards. Originally the sides were quite smooth and the top sharp, rising to the height of 480 feet. The stones used in its construction are mostly large, and must have required an immense amount of work and mechanical skill to quarry, transport, and adjust in their present position. Herodotus, who visited this place in the fifth century before Christ, affirms that it re- quired 100,000 men, working ten years, to construct the causeway over which to transport the stone from the quarries, and that it re- quired twenty more years for the same number of men to construct the Great Pyramid alone. We are now positive that this pyramid was EASTWARD TO SYRIA 105 constructed by Khufu I, whom the Greeks called Cheops, for his name has been found upon some of the stones, painted on them by his workmen. Therefore this pyramid dates from about 2700 B. C. Climbing the Such mountains of stone prove that these Egyptian Great Psrramid kings were cruel oppressors of their people. Herodo- tus says that the Egyptians did not like even to speak the names of the builders of the two largest pyramids. Gerald and I thought we would like to as- cend this artificial mountain, and so we climbed to the top. Here in the center of the square space be- f o r e mention' n was a pole erect- ed, whose top indi- cated the original height of the pyra- mid before its top was removed. We both climbed this pole also, and can therefore say that we have real- ly been to the top of the Great Pvramid Ascending the Great Pyramid Descending, we passed around to the southwest side of the pyramid in order to view the Sphinx, a colossal, sculptured figure, as old as The Snhinx ^^^ fourth dynasty, the time of the erection of the greatest pyramids ; some think that the Sphinx even antedates them, being built by Menes. This immense statue, with the exception of the forelegs, which are built of masonry, is sculptured out of the native rock, and measures about 63 feet in height and 150 feet in length. The figure is in the form of a lion having a human head, and has solemn, awe-inspiring, and majestic features, represent- 106 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS ing the god Harmachis. Concerning this Egyptian Sphinx one writer says: "This huge, mutilated figure has an astonishing effect ; it seems Hke an eternal spectre. The stone phantom seems attentive; one would say that it hears and sees. Its great ear appears to collect the sounds of the past; its eyes, directed to the East, gaze, as it Our Party at the Sphinx were, into the future; its aspect has a depth, a truth of expression, irresistibly fascinating to the spectator. In this figure — half statue, half mountain — we see a wonderful majesty, a grand serenity, and even a sort of sweetness of expression." Sphinxes figured in the mythologies of both Greeks and Romans. The sphinx of the Greeks, however, was in the form of a lion with wings, and with the head and shoulders of a woman. Mvtholoffv Thus, in the fable, Hera, provoked with the Thebans, sent the sphinx to punish them, and the sphinx pro- posed a riddle and then proceeded to destroy all who attempted to interpret its meaning and failed. The riddle was the question, "What animal walks on four legs in the morning, on two at noon, and on three in the evening .f"' This was finally solved by CEdipus, who said that man walked on his hands and feet in childhood, or in the morning, EASTWARD TO SYRIA 107 and at noontime of life walked erect, and in the evening of his life supported himself with a staff. Whereupon the sphinx destroyed herself. On the plain near by, and within sight of the pyramids, Napoleon fought a fierce battle with the Mameluke cavalry in 1798. Before the conflict he stirred his soldiers to action with one of his short charac- teristic addresses, saying, "Men, forty centuries are looking down upon you." The French were successful in this "battle of the pyra- mids," as it is termed. The second pyramid (Khafra) is 690 feet square at the base and 447 feet high — only a little smaller than the pyramid of Cheops. The third pyramid (Menkaura) is much smaller, be- and^Menkaura'^^ ^^S only 354 feet square at the base and 203 feet high. But it is much better constructed than the others, or at any rate it is the best preserved; for much of the outer smooth coating of marble remains, giving a clear idea of the original appearance of all of them. These pyramids were doubtless built by the respective kings as tombs and memorials of themselves. They contain inner chambers. During the researches of Colonel Vyse, the^ stone sarcophagus of the king Menkaura was found in this third pyramid, also the wooden cover of the inside cofBn, which was made of cedar. The body of the king had been removed, had been carried up into an upper room in the pyramid and torn apart, probably at some time when the pyramid was broken into by persons in search of treasures. This sarcophagus and wrecked mummy we saw, as I have already stated, in the British Museum. CAIRO TO BEIRUT Leaving Cairo by train, we passed through the "land of Goshen," where the children of Israel dwelt while in captivity in Egypt. The many incidents which were connected with their so- The "Land of . • . i • i j j i • i i • j. Goshen" journ m this land and which occupy such a prominent place in the familiar records of the Scriptures, were brought vividly to my mind; and instead of merely singing, "Backward, turn backward, Time in your flight," we almost felt as if we were really moving amid the scenes of 3,500 years ago. There we could look out and see a cow and a camel yoked together and drawing a crooked stick for a plow, probably the very same way that plowing was done when Abraham visited that country. There we could see little villages composed of low huts, in which the 108 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS people, donkeys, sheep, and goats appeared to live very much In com- mon, with no appreciable change from the conditions that prevailed there at the earliest dawn of human history. One feature of our trip to Syria, which we appreciated very much, was the exact reversal of history, chronologically considered, in the order of our examinations. This fact served to in- crease our interest from place to place. In America we were in contact with the newest civilization. Then our coming to England and viewing the things already considered, carried us further back into history; but still, the greater part of Chronology Reversed Beirut, Syria these things are modern. But when we crossed the Continent, we began to feel as if we were really treading on ancient soil. In Italy we found ourselves amid scenes that were current at the beginning of Christian history, and that even antedated it. Crossing to Greece, we were brought in touch with the relics of a civilization that was vener- able with age when the Roman empire was born. And when we reached Egypt, we found, as it were, the cradle of Greece; for here Herodotus came to study ancient history, while Pythagoras and- Plato became pupils of Egyptian priests that they might learn the wisdom of the Egyptians, and Plato was inclined to think that the pictures and stat- ues then in the temples had been made "ten thousand years" before. EASTWARD TO SYRIA 109 After Egypt had fulfilled her mission, by paving the way for the civilization of other countries, she was suffered to decline. From the time that the Persian king, Artaxerxes III, subjected F^heT *^^ country, about 340 B. C, until the present day, no native prince has ever sat upon the throne of the Pharaohs. Long before this Persian conquest, the prophet Ezekiel predicted the utter abasement of Egypt: "Thus saith the Lord God; I will also DESTROY THE IDOLS, and I will cause their images to cease out of Noph; AND THERE SHALL BE NO MORE A PRINCE OF THE LAND OF EGYPT" (Ezek. 30:13). For a long distance our train ran along the Suez Canal. The construction of this canal was a remarkable feat of engineering skill, and it has proved an immense benefit to the commerce the\onraey ° °^ *^^ Eastern nations. Arriving at Port Said, we em- barked on the steamship Dalmatia, whose course was direct to Beirut, Syria, our destination. We were very tired; for the six weeks of almost continuous traveling since we left New York, had had its effect. So we were thankful to reach the last stage of our journey. But we found that the berths were all taken and no accom- modations of that kind could be provided for us; therefore we were obliged to sleep out on the deck as best we could. The sea was not very rough, but for some reason we were all troubled with sickness, except Gerald. After lying out on the deck all night, without any bedclothes, I concluded that we were at least learning the meaning of one English word — hardship. We passed within sight of the city of Sidon, which stands so closely associated with Tyre (a little further down the coast) in the history of ancient Phoenicia. Hiram, king of Tyre, as- sisted Solomon by furnishing cedar from the mountains of Lebanon for the erection of the splendid temple at Jerusalem. Early in the afternoon of September 4, our ship anchored in the harbor of Beirut; and we were soon in the company of our friends, ready to enter into the service of Christ in that country. THROUGH THE HOLY LAND THROUGH THE HOLY LAND After laboring during the winter of 1912-13 in missionary work in the village of Schweifat, Mt. Lebanon, Syria, we felt that it would be pleasing to the Lord for us to make a trip to Egypt to engage in evangelistic work for a few weeks. Our short visit in Egypt while on our way to Syria the year before had created in us a strong desire to return and do what we could to encourage the dear saints there and to increase the work. We also desired to visit Palestine; and since on the return journey to Syria we would be passing that way at the time of year most favorable for visiting the Holy Land, we made this trip a part of our general plan. BEIRUT TO ALEXANDRIA At 10 A. M. Monday morning, February 17, 1913, wife and,!, with our little boy, Gerald, sailed from the harbor of Beirut on a steamship of the Italian Line, bound for Alexandria direct. For three days prior to this time the worst storm that we had seen on the sea since we had been there, raged on the Mediterrane^in. Our tickets had been secured in advance; therefore we felt obliged to go, since we could not wait for the next sailing one weelf, later. Shortly after embarking we responded to the call for early lunch and took our places at the table ; but soon the boat passed beyond the break- water in the harbor and encountered the open waves of the sea, with the result that we quickly felt disposed to retire at once to our state- room, leaving such a minor thing as lunch for future consideration. There is something about seasickness that always seems very amusing — after it is all over. I succeeded in removing my coat and one shoe, and then was obliged to lie down quickly and remain quiet during the rest of the voyage, which did not close until the evening of the next day. Poor little Gerald was very seasick for the first time in his life. He would pray earnestly for the Lord to heal him, and then would suddenly take another spell of sickness. Finally he said discouragingly, "What is the matter with Jesus?" We told him that Jesus was all right, but that he would have to pray more earnestly and believe. Then he would say, "I do be- lieve; I do believe." He soon recovered entirely and was able to play around in the stateroom and in the dining-room during the remainder 113 114 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS of the trip. During the night a murder was committed on board; a child being smothered by its parents. They were Arabs from Al- giers. So when the ship arrived at Alexandria, all the passengers were detained on board while some sort of investigation was in prog- ress, after which we were allowed to land. We spent five weeks with the church in Alexandria, then went to Cairo, where we labored for about three weeks. Our efforts in the work at this time and the results of the same are detailed in the section of this book relating to personal missionary experiences. Cairo is a remarkable city, and one of the Mohammedan centers of the world. Its labyrinth of narrow, crooked streets and lanes, its At Cairo numerous bazaars and markets give a good Oriental im- pression; still, the European influence is noticeable, especially in some quarters of the city. While there this time, we spent one day on a trip to the Pyramids and we had a better opportunity than we had the year before for viewing these remarkable structures — the greatest masonry ever put together by man. We also visited the Boulak Museum, in Cairo, which contains a vast collection of Egyptian antiquities. Our greatest interest, how- ever, was in the mummies of the kings. Not all of the Egypt's sovereigns of Egypt constructed pyramids for their Sovereigns tombs. In the limestone cliff back of Thebes are nu- merous magnificent rock-cut sepulchers in which bodies of the kings were formerly placed. These chambers were richly sculp- tured and painted, and the place has been termed "The Westminster Abbey of Egypt." It appears that some sudden alarm caused the people to take the bodies of the kings from these sepulchers and se- crete them; but in 1886 they were discovered in a secret cave near Thebes. They were taken to this museum where they were easily iden- tified by means of the inscriptions upon the cases and wrappings. The collection consists of nearly all of the kings of the Eighteenth, Nine- teenth, Twentieth, and Twenty-first Dynasties. Here we looked upon the face of the once mighty Seti I, noted for his great wars with the Hittites on the Euphrates, and for his wonderful achievements as a builder in Egypt. The main part of the world-renowned "Hall of Columns" in the Temple of Karnak was constructed by him. He also constructed for himself the most beautiful and elaborate sepulcher among the tombs of the kings of Thebes. In the next case adjoining, we looked upon the body of his son, Rameses II, surnamed The Great, the Sesostris of the Greeks. He THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 115 Barneses II, the Pharaoh of the Oppression H6i MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS was the most prominent king of the Nineteenth Dynasty, and is gen- •erally accorded first place among all the sovereigns of Egypt. His long reign of sixty-seven years was a period of military expeditions and architectural works. It is estimated that nearly one-half of the extant temples were built during his reign. Scholars affirm that he was the Pharaoh of the oppression, the new king that arose "which knew not Joseph" (Exod. 1: 8)^ This was confirmed by the discovery in 1883, of the treasure-cities of Rameses and Pithom, with store-pits constructed of brick built with mortar. The lower layers of brick were made of straw ; and the middle layers contained stubble, instead of straw; while the upper layers are of brick made without straw or stubble. This agrees perfectly with the description of the work done by the Israelities (Exod. 5:6-19). The inscriptions found prove the builder to be Ramases II. On our return from the East we saw in the British Museum in London a section of this work, brought from Egypt. It was the daughter of this king who found and adopted Moses (Exod. 2: 1-10). I particularly noticed sixteen of these kings, and took notes con- cerning them, but wiU refer just to one more — Menephta, the Phar- aoh of the Exodus. According to the Bible account, the Pharoah of the Exodus was drowned in the Red Sea ; biit when we consider that this overthrow took place in a shallow Rrm of the sea, and consider also the particular care the Egyptians had ;f or their dead, it is a reason- able hypothesis that his body was afterwards recovered and embalmed. Here we stood looking upon the stern face of that wicked king who resisted Moses and Aaron 3,400 years ago. This was the man who hardened his heart against God, as a result of which God's name has been "declared throughout all the earth" (Rom. 9:17). Oh, the vanity of human greatness! testify these dried remains of the mighty of past ages. FROM EGYPT TO PALESTINE On the morning of April 13 we started from Egypt on our trip through the Holy Land. We were accompanied by Mikail Pam- bukdjian, of Constantinople, and G. K. Ouzounian, of Cairo. Arriv- ing at Port Said, we embarked on' a steamship of the Khedivial Line, bound for Jaffa; and soon were on our way to the land where Bible interest centers — the country which we have longed to see from the time in earliest childhood when we eagerly listened to Bible lore. Early in the morning our ship anchored in the harbor, and we were soon conveyed to the shore in a small boat. Here we were joined by THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 1,1(7 Sister Bessie Hittle, who came direct from Beirut to accompany lis through Palestine. i ' Jaffa is tlie Joppa of the Bible and was anciently a Phoenician col- ony. It is beautifully situated on a rocky eminence overlooking the J ^ joDDa ^^^' ^^^ port is very dangerous on account of ex- posure to the open sea; and therefore in very rough weather ships do not attempt to harbor there. This was the only port possessed by the Israelites until the time of Herod, who formed Jaffa from the Sea the harbor at Cesarea. One thousand years before Christ, King Solo- mon requested Hiram, king of Tyre, to send cedar from Lebanon to this place to be transported to Jerusalem and used in the construc- tion of the temple. Hiram's reply is given in these words: "We will, cut wood out of Lebanon, as much as thou shalt need: and we will bring it to thee in floats by sea to Joppa ; and thou shalt carry it inp to Jerusalem" (2 Chron. 2:16). So also similar arrangements weire made for the construction of the second temple, by Zerubbabel (Ezra 3:7). Here also Jonah embarked on his ill-fated voyage w^h^p he sought to "flee unto Tarshish from the presence of the Lord" (Jonah 1:3). The place also has an interesting connection with Christian his- tory, for a church was established here at a very early date. Ilexe ■118 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Peter raised Tabitha (Dorcas) to life (Acts 9:36-42) after which "he tarried many days in Joppa with one Simon a tanner." After Dorcas walking through the narrow, crooked, and dirty streets of this town, we started eastward along the Jerusalem road to visit the Russian Settlement, about one mile distant, where the site of the house of Tabitha and her rock tomb are shown. A church is built on the spot. This we entered, and spent some time viewing the many paintings exhibited, which consist principally of different events of Peter's life. A large painting over the door shows Peter in the act of raising Dorcas to life. We climbed a circular stairway leading to the top of the church tower and from this point obtained an ad- mirable view of Jop- pa and the sea on the west and the plain of Sharon on the east. It is said that in clear weather the view northward ex- tends to Mount Car- mel. Descending, we passed out through the beautiful gardens in this Settlement and came to the reputed rock +owli nf Tabitha, into whicu we descended. Returning to the city, we passed to the southwest part of the town, where we were shown the house of Simon the tanner, by the seaside (Acts 10:6). Here, we were told, Peter had his fa- House of Simon . . .i i" , i t,- ^ ^ i j . the Tanner mous vision on the housetop, by wnicn he was led to go to the household of Cornelius and thus open up the gospel to the Gentile world. Passing through the old house to the rear, we climbed the stone steps leading up to the housetop where the apostle engaged in prayer, while they "made ready" his meal below. At this point the view was very beautiful. The house itself is old ; but that it really dates from the time of Peter is more than doubtful to me, since we know that the town has been destroyed at different times in war, and it is not likely that this particular house escaped the general ruin. Thus, during the Jewish war the town was destroyed, but was quickly rebuilt, after which it was again destroyed by Ves- pasian as being the haunt of pirates. It was also captured and de- Crrave of Taliitlia THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 119 120 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS stroyed two or three times during the period of the crusades. But, after all, there was considerable satisfaction in being in the very place where the apostle Peter tarried many days, and where God mi- raculously opened up the door of faith to the Gentiles. Of late years Jaffa has been a growing and prosperous town, cele- brated for its gardens and extensive orchards of delicious fruit. Its annual exports of fruit, especially of oranges, is very Characteristics large. The western traveler who, unacquainted with life and conditions in the East, lands at this gate- way to Palestine, is certain to be deeply impressed with the Oriental character of the place. To force his way through the narrow, crooked streets, thronged with busy citizens, foreign pilgrims, wild Arabs, camels, mules, horses, donkeys, and dogs, is indeed a novel experience ; while to stop on some corner and observe the noisy, quarrel- some, ragged, and filthy rabble, many of whom are blind and some leprous, causes the mind to wander back to life and sanitary conditions in the West. As one writer has said: "I was reminded of Dorcas, and the widows around Peter exhibiting the coats and garments which that benevolent lady had made, and I devoutly hoped she might be raised again, at least in spirit, for there is need of a dozen Dorcas societies in Jaffa at the present time." At two o'clock in the afternoon we took the train for Jerusalem. As we rode along through the extensive orange-gardens forming the environs of Jaffa, and into the luxuriant plain of Sha- The Plain of ,, . , , . „ , , Sharon von, the , mingled spicery oi orange-, lemon-, apple-, apricot-, quince-, and plum-trees in blossom floated in upon the air. This natural' beauty, extolled even by ancient prophets, who wrote of the "excellency of Carmel and Sharon" (Isa. 35: 2), pre- sented a pleasing contrast with the dreary wastes of sand forming the everlasting environment of the narrow country of Egypt. Toward the east the mountains of Judea were visible. Our interest was aroused to its highest point, for every spot upon which our eyes rested seemed to poS'sess a special sacredneSs om account of its historic associations. A Mohammedan sheikh, a resident of Jerusalem, occupied a seat in the train with us, and, being of a liberal turn of mind, seemed to ap- preciate the character of our work, which Brother Ouzounian ex- plained to him ; and he also rendered much assistance to us by point- ing out the many places of interest along the route to Jerusalem. At the distance of twelve and one-half miles from Jaffa we came to Lydda, a town which is first mentioned after the captivity, and which has passed through many vicissitudes during the past centuries. THROUGH THE HOLY LANP , 121 Its connection with the apostle Peter, in the gospel history, was the T ,^^ point of impojrtance to us, for it was here that ^neas was healed, after which a great revival of religion took place. The Bible account is as follows : "And it came to pass, as Peter passed throughout all quarters, he came down also to the saints which dwelt at Lydda. And there he found a certain man named ^neas, which had kept his bed for eight years, and was sick of palsy. And Peter said unto him, JEneas, Jesus Christ maketh thee whole: arise, and make thy bed. And he rose immediately. And all that dwelt at Lydda and Sharon saw him, and turned to the Lord" (Acts 9:32-35). According to Moslem tradition, Mohammed declared that at the last day Christ would slay Antichrist at the gate of Lydda. Shortly after leaving Lydda, we came to the station Er Ramleh. The town is surrounded with beautiful orchards and with sycamores Historic Sites ^^^ plum-trees. The land is fertile and yields rich crops, but the town itself is unimportant. There is a tradition that this was the home of Joseph of Arimathea, the rich man who buried Jesus (Matt. 27:57). This story is probably a fabrication. A little farther along, on the right of the railway, we could see some remains of Ekron, one of the five chief cities of the Philistines (Josh. 13: 8) ; and on a hill to the left, the ruins of Gezer, a city of the Canaanites which was captured by Pharaoh and given to his daughter, the wife of King Solomon, as her dowry (1 Kings 9:16). Here the crusaders under Baldwin IV defeated Saladin in 1177. Recent excavations by the Palestine Exploration Fund have brought^ to light much of the ancient history of this town which consisted of fi,ve main epochs. "The lowest stratum contains cave-dwellings, with, flint implements [probably 3,000-2,000 B. C.]. The numerous Egyp- tian seals, rings, and other ornaments in the Canaanitish stratum above, this [about 2,000-1,000 B. C] shows how great was the influence o£ Egyptian culture at that remote period. Higher up, the periods of the Jewish city, before and after the exile, were clearly distinguishable. Some of the caves used as graves contained numerous weapons of_ bronze. On the saddle between the two heights lay the ancient sanc- tuary, with 'mazzeboth' or standing stones, and under its pavement were large clay vessels containing the bodies of children, doubtless used, in sacrifices." * At the distance of about twenty-five miles from Jaffa our train, entered the "valley of Sorek," where lived the woman whom Samson 122 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS loved, and who was the means of his overthrow (Judg. 16:4). A Samson little farther along the mountains began, and shortly after entering them we saw, high up in the rocks, the mouth of a grotto knoWn as Samson's cavern. The story of Samson (Judges 13-16) is localized in this district. Bittir, in the mountains of Judea, was formerly a strongly fortified place which played an important part in the last great insurrection gj^.j the Jews made against the Romans. In the early part of the second century a Jew named Barcocliba an- nounced that he was the Messiah, and the Jews in great nuuibers flocked to his standard and espoused his cause. They took possession of Jerusalem and about fifty other fortified places. The Emperor Hadrian sent to Britain for Julius Severus, one of his ablest generals, who succeeded in regaining Jerusalem and other places. Barcochba retired to this mountain fastness ; and it was three and one-half years before the Romans succeeded in capturing it (A. D. 135), when a ter- rible massacre of the inhabitants took place. About six o'clock in the evening our line traversed the valley of Rephaim, where David defeated the Philistines (2 Sam. 5:18), and soon in the distance appeared the one great object of our desire — • JERUSALEM. JERUSALEM From very early ages Jerusalem has been the theme of song and story. "Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is mount Zion, on the sides of the north, the city of the great King" ( Psa. 48 : 2 ) . It existed in the time of Abraham, when "Melchisedek king of Salem" went forth to meet the patriarch on his triumphant return from the battle of the kings (Gen. 14:18). That the city anciently called Salem was none other than the Jerusalem of later ages is shown by the words of the Psalmist, "In Salem also is his tabernacle, and his dwelling-place in Zion" (Psa. 76:2). After the time of Abraham it fell to the Jebusites, who called it Jebus, then the two words were united in one — Jerusalem — and is first referred to by this name in Josh. 10: 1. After the death of Joshua the children of Judah fought against the Canaanites and captured and burned Jerusalem (Judges 1:8); still we learn that "the children of Benjamin did not drive out the Jebusites that inhabited Jerusalem" (verse 21). At. a later time David led his forces from Hebron and captured the stronghold of Zion, where he established his capital, and which after him was called the city of David (2 Sam". 5:7, 9). THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 123 124 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Natural Situation The natural situation of Jerusalem is peculiar, as it lies near the summit of a broad mountain ridge 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. "In several respects," says Stanley, "its situation is singular among the cities of Palestine. Its eleva- tion is remarkable; occasioned not from its being on the summit of one of the numerous hills of Judea, like inost of the towns and villages, but because it is on the edge of one of the highest 1 tablelands of the country. Hebron indeed is higher by some hundred feet, and from the south accordingly ( even from Bethlehem) , the approach to Je- rusalem is by a slight descent. But from any other side the ascent is per- petual; and to the traveler approach- ing the city from the east or west, it must always have presented the ap- pearance beyond p.ny other capital of the then - known world — we may say beyond any impor- I tant city that has ever Existed on the earth — of a mountain city ; breathing, as com- pared with the sultry plains of Jordan, a mountain air; enthroned, as colmpared with Jericho or Damascus, Gaza or Tyre, on a moun- tain fastness." TJi^ , mountain tract on which Jerusalem stands extends through Pales|^ne from the Plain of Esdrafejon on the north to a point oppo- site the southern end of th6 Dead Sea. It is about twenty or twen- ty-five miles wide, everywhere rocky, uneven, and mountainous, cut up by deep valleys running east and west. The surface of the prom- ontory on which the city stands slopes toward the east, terminating Jerusalem Jews THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 12S Etbruptly on the brink of the deep Valley of Jehoshaphat. The city stands within the fork of two ravines, the Valley of Jehoshaphat on the east, and the Valley of Hinnom on the south and west. ;A slight depression known as the Tyropoeon Valley traverses the city from north to south. This was formerly a d6ep valley, at least sixty feet below the present level, running from the vicinity of the present Damascus Gate on the North to the W^ell Gate on the south, sepa- rating the narrow, abrupt east hill from the west hill. : ; On the west side of this valley was Mount Zion, on which strong- hold David kept the national shrine — the ark; while : saas^ft'--' :'M Various Traditions The Sacred Rocb: falls out, and when the last nail is gone the end of the world will come. One day the devil destroyed all but three and one-half of these nails, when he was discovered by the angel Gabriel and his purpose of further destruction thwarted. The sheikh who accompanied us through the Mosque affirmed that those who would place money upon these remaining nails would be taken to heaven. Gerald quickly placed a metalik (about one cent) over the head of one nail, and appeared very happy when they told him that he would surely go to heaven. We then passed around to the south side and descended the steps leading to the small cave, already referred to, under the rock. Here, the Mohammedans say, David, Solomon, Abraham, and Elijah former- ly retired to pray, and their respective places are shown. Moham- THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 151 med himself prayed here, and declared that one prayer in this place is worth a thousand elsewhere. In the ceiling is shown an impression of his head made in the rock ! From this rock, we are told, Mohammed was translated to heaven on the back of his steed ; and on the west side we were shown a place in the rock, said to be the impression of the angel's hand who prevented the rock from following the prophet to heaven! On the south side of the Mosque, adjoining the door, are a number of Korans of great age. I desired to touch them, but was not allowed to do so. While all of the temples of the Israelites stood in this place, they differed considerably in form, size, etc. The unrivaled temple of Sol- omon was completely destroyed at the time of the Baby- Tempi^^ ^^"^ lonish captivity. The second temple, the temple of Zerubbabel, erected by the Jewish exiles after their re- turn, was probably constructed on the same plan as the former one, but was greatly inferior (compare Ezra 3: 12 with Hag. 2:3). This temple stood about five hundred years, but was falling into decay when Herod became king of Judah. During the first part of his reign this prince treated the Jews with such severity that he became very un- popular. In order to reinstate himself in the good graces of his sub- jects he set to work to construct a magnificent temple on Mount Moriah, to replace the decaying one. This structure was of immense size, and was the one so often referred to in the Gospels. The inner part, consisting of a Holy Place and a Most Holy Place, surrounded by a court, was made conformable to the Jewish plan, but Herod also constructed additional courts. This was doubtless for the sake of policj. The Jews carefully excluded all foreigners from the sacred precincts of their temples, while Herod had among his subjects numer- ous Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, whom he felt constrained to rec- ognize in some way; therefore he added a "Court of the Gentiles" sur- rounding the court of the Jews. These two courts were separated by a low stone wall, and at certain distances columns were erected with Greek and Latin inscriptions prohibiting foreigners, under pain of death, from advancing further. In the past some have doubted whether the Jews, under Roman rule, were empowered to put men to death for trespassing in the inner courts of the temple, but the recent discovery of one of these inscriptions referred to puts the matter be- yond all doubt. It reads as follows: "No foreigner to proceed with- in the partition wall and enclosure around the sanctuary; whoever is caught in the same, will on that account be liable to incur death." This inscribed stone I saw later in the Imperial Museum in Constantinople. 152 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS This discovery also throws light on certain passages of Scrip- ture. The word for sanctuary is the same as the word for temple in the passage "he drove them all out of the tem- of Partition" P^^'" meaning the inner court, the court of the Israel- ites. So also the Jews cried out against Paul for bringing an uncircumcised m^n, as they thought, into the temple; meaning, not the court of the Gentiles, but the inner court of the Jews. So also the expression of Paul about the "middle wall of parT tition" between the Jews and the Gentiles is doubtless derived from this fact. Paul had often noticed this dividing wall with its inscrip- tions threatening death to foreigners, and he regarded it as the sym- bol of the exclusiveness of Judaism as opposed to the universality of Christianity. This was the temple that was entirely destroyed by the legions of Titus during the most disastrous siege of all history, A. D. 70. Our Later Buildings knowledge of the subsequent history of the place is not continuous, but we know some facts about it. Ha- drian erected a temple to Jupiter here. Afterwards Julian the Apos- tate (fourth century) encouraged the Jews to return to their city, and assisted them in rebuilding their« temple on this site, in order to prove untrue the words of Christ that Jerusalem should be trodden down of the Gentiles. Contemporaneous . historians affirm that fire came out of the earth and scorched the workmen and drove them away repeatedly, until Julian was forced to abandon his enterprise; while Christian apologists of the time made use of it as a well-known fact, in their arguments against paganism. Some modern historians discredit this statement, but without any reason, so far as I know, aside from their own unbelief in miraculous occurrences. Later, the calif Omar found the place covered with rubbish which had been thrown there by the Christians in derision of the Jews, and he as- sisted with his own hands in clearing it away. An inscription in th^ interior of the present so-called Mosque of Omar mentions the year 72 of the Hegira (A. D. 691) as the date of its erection. The other buildings in the Temple Area are unimportant except the Aksa Mosque, which we next visited. It is situated at the south end of the temple grounds, probably about the place Aksa Mosque formerly occupied by the palace of Solomon. It is probable that it was originally a basilica erected by the Emperor Constantine in honor of the Virgin Mary. It is 264 feet long and 180 feet wide, not reckoning the annexes. As there is not much within to interest the reader, I will not attempt to give a general description. THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 153 I remember particularly a beautifully carved, wood pulpit inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl. On each side of this pulpit was a pair of columns close together. A legend asserts that no one can go to heaven who can not pass between these columns. We examined them and found that they were greatly worn, probably by the passage of many people through them, or else by some of the large people's at- tempts to make their entrance into heaven sure by enlarging the place between the columns. Iron screens connecting the columns now pre- vent all passage. Beneath the surface of the temple vast cisterns, dating from an- cient times, have been discovered. About thirty-five of these have been examined, and their combined capacity is about 10,000,000 gal- lons. The largest is known as the Great Sea, which is mentioned in the Book of Ecclesiasticus. It holds about 3,000,000 gallons. These formed an important part in the water supply of Jerusalem, further reference to which will be made when we describe Solomon's Pools. The temple hill did not present enough level surface to accommo- date the large temple, palace, and other structures designed for this Substructure locality. To remedy this difficulty, they resorted to artificial work. Side walls were laid and the inter- vening space filled up; but this work was simplified by the erection of massive vaulted substructures beneath. The south side of the Temple Area rests almost entirely upon these gigantic substructions. We desired to visit these underground vaults, therefore descended a stair- case in the southeast corner of the enclosure. First we reached a small Moslem Oratory, where we saw a small horizontal niche said to be the cradle of Christ. Medieval tradition asserts that this was the resi- dence of the aged Simeon, and that Mary spent a few days here after the Presentation of Christ in the temple. From this place we descended into the large substructions known as Solomon's Stables. There are thirteen galleries, the vaulting of which is borne by eighty-eight piers arranged in twelve parallel rows. The entire space measures 273 feet long and 198 feet wide. The drafted stone piers are very ancient. The crusaders used this space as stables for their horses, and in the angles of the piers can be seen the holes through which the animals were tied. Remains of a long stone manger can also be seen. Returning to the surface, we proceeded northward along the inside of the enclosing east wall. The top part of the wall is modern. Here, built in the wall near the top, can be seen the stump of a column pro- truding from the wall on both sides. I have already referred to the Mohammedan tradition that at the last judgment a wire rope will be 154 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS stretched from this wall across the valley eastward to the Mount of Olives. One end of the rope is to be attached to this stump. A little Golden Gate farther along we came to the Golden Gate, which is identified by many with the Beautiful Gate mentioned in Acts 3:2. Two monolith door-posts used as pillars, and said to have been presented by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, are vestiges of an ancient gateway. But it is the opinion of some that the Beau- tiful Gate belonged to the forecourt of the temple, and not to the outer enclosing walls. A little to the north of the Golden Gate is a small Mosque known as the Throne of Solomon. We were told that Solomon's throne of judgment was located here. According to a legend, Solomon Solomon was found dead here. "In order to conceal his death from the demons, he supported himself on his seat with a staff; and it was not until the worms had gnawed the staff through and caused the body to fall that the demons became aware that they were released from the king's authority." In the northwest comer of the Temple Area are barracks at the present time. The foundations of the wall at this point appear to be ancient, and may have belonged to the fortress of An- Fortress of . . . . Antonia tonia, a castle which originated in the time of the Maccabees. It was greatly improved by Herod, and by him given the name Antonia. It was fitted up like a palace, buD was in reality a fortress. At each of the four comers was a tower. Secret passages connected with the temple courts, through which the soldiers could quickly come to quell tumults arising within. This was the "castle" into which Paul was carried when the Jews arose against him in the temple and intended to kill him; and it was here that he gav^e the able account of his conversion and subsequent man- ner of life, escaping afterwards from a treacherous conspiracy, through the timely warning of his nephew (Acts 21:26-40; 23:10-33). We emerged from the Haram esh-Sherif at the northeast corner, near St. Stephen's Gate, said to be the gate through which Stephen was taken out to be stoned (Acts 7:58). Crossing j^j^Q the street which leads to this gate, we entered the Church of St. Anne, which is said to occupy the site of the house of Joachim and Anne, the parents of the Virgin Mary. The interior of the church is 120 feet long and 66 feet wide. A flight of twenty-one steps in the southeast corner descends to a crypt hewn in the rock. This is said to have been the birthplace of the Virgin. The graves of her parents are also shown here, as well as in the Church THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 155 of the Virgin near the Garden of Gethsemane, already referred to. It appears that in the fifteenth century a transfer of the tombs to that site took place. In the ground belonging to the church an ancient rock-hewn pool has been discovered. This pool is claimed by good authorities to be the one spoken of in John 5 : 2-4 : "Now there is at Bethesda Jerusalem by the sheep market a pool, which is called in the Hebrew tongue Bethesda, having five porches. In these lay a great multitude of impotent folk, of blind, halt, withered, waiting for the moving of the water. For an an- gel went down at a certain season into the pool, and trou- bled the water : whosoever then first after the troubling o f t h e water stepped in Was made whole of whatsoever disease he had." The old- est Plan of Jeru- salem in existence, the Madeha Mo- saic ( sixth cen- tury), locates the Pool of Bethesda here. Near the en- trance we found in sixty- five lan- guages the words of John 5 : 1-9, which contains an account of the healing of the lame man at this pool. We descended a flight of steps leading down to the water. Only one end of the pool has been excavated, but it appears to have been very large. We next visited what is traditionally represented as the site of Pi- late's judgment-hall, then proceeded along the Via Dolorosa, the street along which Christ is said to have traveled enroute to the place of cru- cifixion. On the north side of this street we entered the Church of the Fool of Betliescla 156 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Sisters of Zion, a church partly built into the rock ; and descending into the vaults beneath, we could trace clearly a large portion of the an- Via Dolorosa cient Roman pavement. We could also see lines marked on the surface of some of the stones where the Roman soldiers amused themselves in playing games. Adjoining this building is a Greek Hospice. We descended into the basement of this building, where we could trace the continuation of the above-mentioned pave- ment. Here are a number of ancient chambers hewn in the rocks. One of these chambers is said to have been the prison of Jesus, and we were shown the stocks in which his feet were made fast. We were not much interested in this story, but were deeply impressd with an- other narrative that seems altogether real . This place, we were told, was a Roman prison in which condemned persons were imprisoned and left to die. In the rock wall two parallel Roman Prison notches close together and connected by a hole, fur- nished a place for tying the cord which bound the prisoner fast. Many of these places could be seen, and it is probable that at times many prisoners were at one time bound to these walls and abandoned to die. The presence of many bones collected in some of the apartments adds a conviction of reality to this account. It made us shudder to think of such a fearful sight — the tears and groans, blasphemies and useless prayers of the miserable wretches here slowly dying amid the horrible stench arising from the partly decom- posed bodies of earlier victims ! It was a relief to return to the sur- face and step out once more into God's clear sunlight and fresh air. Continuing by the Via Dolorosa where it turns to the south, we came to a medieval house with a small bay window projecting out over the street. This is termed the house of the rich man (Dives), the man to whom Christ referred in his account of Lazarus and the rich man (Luke 16: 19-31). Farther on we came to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, and then returned to our hotel for lunch. In the afternoon we went to the northwest part of the city to see Dr. Schick's Models of the Temple, a most interesting and instructive sight. Here we have the past history, not of the Temple temple alone, but of the entire Temple. Area, presented chronologically by means of well-constructed models. I understand that Dr. Schick was a minister, and that he spent a num- ber of years in perfecting these designs. The purpose is to represent everything correctly, as near as can be determined by the data sup- plied from Biblical and other sources. First the tabernacle is pre- THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 157 sented, the different parts being constructed separately in accord- ance with the Biblical description, and then set up. Of course, a cheaper gilt is substituted for the gold and silver work. Even the high priest and other priests are shown, together with the animals and sacrifices. Dr. Schick is dead, but his daughter exhibited the models and gave us a very interesting lecture on the subject. After exhibit- ing the tabernacle, she led us into the adjoining room where we were shown Mount Moriah in its original condition, with the Holy Rock, then she proceeded to imitate the work of King Solomon. First she placed the vaulted substructions at the sides in order to raise the level of the ground, then an enclosing wall was built; and then quickly plac- ing together a few pieces, the beautiful temple of Solomon appeared on the mountain top ; next the royal palace arose at the south end of the Temple Area, etc. We could well-nigh imagine ourselves amid the scenes of twenty-nine centuries ago, looking upon the crowning glory of Jerusalem. Next followed the destruction of the place by the Babylonians, and later the temple of Zerubbabel appeared ; afterwards, the magnificent temple and other buildings of Herod in the time of our Savior. After the destruction of the place by the Romans, Hadrian's small temple of Juipter appeared; and finally, the present Mosques of Omar and Aksa, which bear a wretched comparison with some of the splendid structures of the past. The entire exhibition was intensely interesting. Passing to the group of Russian buildings, we entered the hand- some cathedral, the interior of which is richly decorated. Our atten- tion was drawn particularly to a magnificent, hang- Cathedral ^^S lamp of immense size, with a circular band sur- rounding it, all overlaid with gold. Services were to take place here about 5 P. M., but we did not wait. In the open space behind the church we saw an immense column cut out of the native rock, but owing to a fracture was never completely severed from its bed. It measures 40 feet in length and 5 feet in diameter. We returned to the Jaffa Gate, then went around to the south on the outside of the walls to visit the Zion suburb at the southwest Zion Suburb corner of the modern town, where the city of David on Mount Zion was formerly located. As we were pass- ing around the corner of the city wall, we met a native returning from the Zion quarter, carrying a plow on his shoulder, and for a metalik or two I persuaded him to allow me to take his photograph. This incident recalled the prophecy of Micah, uttered in the days of Zion's prosperity: "Zion shall be plowed like a field" (Jer. 26:18), which 158 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS is literally fulfilled at the present time. On our right below lay the Valley of Hinnom. This Zion suburb was enclosed by the wall of David and Solomon, traces of which are still visible near Bishop Go- bat's School. In this vicinity are some old cisterns. Recent excava- tions here have brought to light some interesting materials, but I am not aware that the results have yet been published. However, our guide conduct- ed us to the remains of an old building, recently brought to light, which he de- clared has been identified as the Pal- ace of David. It bears evidences of having been a well- constructed build- ing, and had mosa- ic floors. We se- cured a handful of these mosaics for relics. We then entered the collection o f buildings known as the En-Nebi Daud. Here on the first floor we went into the so-called Cham- ber of the Last Sup- per, where Christ dined with his disciples before his apprehension. In the subterranean chambers the tomb of David is said to be lo- En-NeM Daud cated; but the place is in the hands of the Moslems, and they will not permit unbelievers to enter. A modern copy of his sarcophagus is shown in a room adjoining the chamber of the Last Supper. According to 1 Ki. 2:10, David was buried "in the city of David." This expression, which is applied to Bethlehem, the birthplace of David, has led some in the past to suppose that the prophet was buried in Bethlehem. But we find that the expression is also applied to Zion, as follows: "Never- theless David took the stronghold of Zion: the same is the city of Native with Flow by the Wall of Jerusalem THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 159 David" (2 Sam. 5:7). "So David dwelt in the fort, and called it the city of David" (v. 9). Now, since David reigned thirty- three years in Jerusalem and died there, it is only natural to suppose that the "city of David" in which he is interred is Mount Zion. This is apparently confirmed by the words of Peter: "His [David's] sepulcher is with us" (Acts 2:29). A church of the apostles on Mount Zion is mentioned in the fourth century and was said to stand on the site of the house of John Mark, where the early Chris- tians assembled for prayer (Acts 12:12). The scene of the Last Supper, also the Pentecost experience, were laid here; and the tomb of David in the Church of Zion formed one of the holy places in the period of the crusaders. It is highly probable that this identification is correct, and thus was fulfilled literally the prediction of the prophet, "Out of Zion shall go forth the law, and the word of the Lord from Jerusalem" (Isa. 2:3). In 1898 Emperor William II presented to the German Catholic Society a plot of ground just to the north of the Nebi Daud. Here the Church of the Virgin has since been erected. This Church of t e ^^ entered. The building, not yet completed, when we were there, was being furnished in elegant style, with costly mosaics of the most striking and artistic patterns. At the sides are six small semi-circular chapels with half-dome tops. Only two of these are yet completed, but their decoration is said to have cost about 17,000 francs (over $3,000) each. The acoustic proper- ties of the church proper are highly objectionable, an ordinary con- versation producing a continual roaring sound, echoing from the dome above. It is said that this is the place where the Virgin Mary died. We also visited the adjoining Museum, where numerous an- tique relics are exhibited. Just to the northeast of this church the Armenian Monastery of Mount Zion is situated, which is said to occupy the site of the House of Caiaphas. Here we were shown an altar containing the "angel's stone" with which the holy sepulcher is said to have been closed. Here also we were shown the place where Peter denied Christ, and the court where the cock crew. We then entered the southern wall of the modern town, through the Gate of Zion, and entering the Armenian Quar- St James ^^^ ^^ ^^^ southwest part, came to the Church of St. James. This old convent-church was very interesting indeed, and well worthy a visit. Many ancient paintings are to be seen. The main object of importance to us, however, was the chief 160 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS sanctuary in the west hall, which is said to be the prison in which James the Great was beheaded (Acts 12:2). A large painting shows the manner of his death, the head lying on the ground severed from the trunk. We then returned to our hotel. One thing that, in our estimation, greatly mars the pleasure of visiting this city, is the fact that nearly every place which has any claim to historic associations is in the hands of some exclusive sect, which has taken particular pains to cover it with a church. But this is not altogether remarkable, for Jerusalem is the center of the three "Apostles' Spring"' Beyond Bethany great religions of the world, and therefore we should not be surprised here to find everything possessing a religious tinge. But the super- stition and formalism, everywhere apparent, are anything but pleas- ant; while the fanaticism, jealousy, and exclusiveness of the native Christian sects stand out in bold relief against the broad background of God's universal love and good will formerly manifested here, and through Jerusalem vouchsafed to the world. In view of these things it is not surprising that the Jews and Mohammedans should regard the Christians with utter contempt. These conditions, so clearly manifested everywhere, made our hearts ache ; and as we knelt in prayer in an upper room in our hotel, we besought the Lord to grant THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 161 that the glorious light and truth of pure Christianity may again be seen and felt throughout this sacred city, as in the days gone by. TRIP TO JERICHO, THE JORDAN. AND THE DEAD SEA Thursday morning, April 17, we took carriage from Jerusalem for a side trip to Jericho, the Jordan, and the Dead Sea. The road led around the city, giving us another good view of the walls, Da- mascus Gate, Grotto of Jeremiah, Golgotha, and St. Stephen's Gate; thence descended, crossing the Valley of the Kidron, and passing the Garden of Gethsemane ; then gradually ascended as it crossed the slope of the Mount of Olives ; and after forty minutes we reached the town of Bethany, a description of which I will give later. As we passed along the way, our attention was called to the numerous flocks of sheep and goats pasturing on the hillsides, attended by shepherds who watched them, the same as was done thousands of years ago. Our road now descended in long windings until we reached the bot- tom of a deep valley, where we came to a watering-place known as the Apostles' Spring, the only well between Bethany and the Jordan Valley. It is claimed that Christ and his apostles stopped and drank here (whence the name), which is quite likely; for any party travel- ing from the opposite direction across the wilderness of Judea would be glad for the opportunity of resting and refreshing themselves in such a place. The mountains of the "wilderness" through which we were pass- ing were for the most part uninteresting, presenting quite a barren appearance. Occasionally some wretched Bedouin Samaritan tents by the wayside added a little touch of variety to the scene. About half way to Jericho we came to an old khan, where a short stop was made. The district here is quite deserted, and this is said to be the only place where an "inn" has ever stood between Jerusalem and Jericho ; hence tradition localizes here the inn of the good Samaritan to which the wounded man who fell among thieves was taken, as narrated in the parable of our Lord (Luke 10:30-35). This section has long been noted as a haunt of robbers. Farther on our driver stopped, and we alighted from the car- riage, and walked to the top of an elevation to the left of the road, from which we could see into a very deep gorge, at the bottom of 162 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 163 The Brook Cherith which is a stream of water. This is usually identified with the brook Cherith, where Elijah, while hiding from Ahab, was fed by the ra- vens (1 Ki. 17:3-6). High up on the rock wall on the side of the gorge a cave has been converted into the Monastery of St. George. A more desolate-look- ing place would be difficult to imagine; therefore those anchorets, who desire to separate themselves from all men, could not do better than to take up their abode in these almost inaccessible cliffs. While looking at this place, we remarked, "How such a life con- trasts with the earthly life of Christ and his first disciples !" Jesus mingled freely with the multitudes for the apparent purpose of touching human life on all of its different levels, and thus elevating, sanctifying, and purifying it. The apostles also recognized the fact that if their labors were to be of benefit to men there must of necessity be a point of contact with men. Soon we came in sight of the Dead Sea and the plain of the Jordan far be- low ; while to the east rose the mountains of Moab, Mount Pisgah towering above the rest. Entering the plain, we passed on our left the place where excavations have brought to light the winter palace of Herod. On the right we saw the remains of a large pool which for- merly belonged to an irrigation system which made this district fer- tile and beautiful. A little farther along we crossed a bridge over the valley and entered the modern village of Jericho. We did not hesi- tate here, but turned to the left and drove perhaps three-fourths of a mile to the northwest to the ruins of the ancient Jericho, near the "Sultan's Spring." The excavations of Professor Sellin and the Ger- man Oriental Society within the last five years, have brought to light many interesting things. It is shown that there existed an outer and Jericho Convent of St. Georg'e 164 MISSIONAJIY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS an inner wall, and part of the actual masonry has been unearthed,, showing a peculiar form of construction, resting upon huge squared stones. This was formerly a large and prosperous city situated near the foot of the mountains. It was often referred to as the "city of palm trees" (Deut. 34:3), as these trees were then quite numerous. Here journeyed the spies from over Jordan and lodged in the house of Rahab, which was built on the town wall. Yonder in the near-by mountains, perhaps in one of the numerous caves, they hid them- selves while search by the men of Jericho was being conducted over the plain of the Jordan (Joshua 2). Upon these foundations before us were reared those large walls around which the confident army of Joshua marched for seven days, and these very hills echoed back the shrill blasts of the rams' horns, while the walls of the city "fell down flat" (Joshua 6). These ruins could not fail to produce a lasting im- pression on our memory. The subsequent history of Jericho is not without interest, how- ever. It will be remembered that at the time of its total destruction by the Israelites, Joshua said, "Cursed be the man before the Lord, that riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho: he shall lay the founda- tion thereof in his firstborn, and in his youngest son shall he set up the gate of it" (Josh. 6: 26). During the reign of the impious Ahab, 520 years later, Hiel made such an attempt, and as a result lost his eldest son, Abiram, and his youngest son, Segub (1 Ki. 16:34). Shortly after the death of Joshua, however, reference is made to the capture of the city of palm trees, by Eglon, king of Moab (Judges 3:13). So also the ambassadors of David, who were insulted by the king of Ammon, were instructed to 'tarry at Jericho until their beards were grown' (2 Sam. 10:5). As these references are to a time prior to the restoration of the city by Hiel, we understand that the city was rebuilt shortly after its destruction, but in another loca- tion, thereby avoiding the penalty predicted by Joshua. In the time of Elisha we find a school of the prophets established here (2 Ki. 2:5). The spring of water, above referred to, is termed by the Chris- tians "Elisha's Spring." When the prophet tarried at Jericho he Elisha 's Swrins ^^^ informed that "the spring of the waters" was not good, whereupon he asked for a cruise of salt which he took and cast into the waters, and forthwith they were healed (2 Ki. 2:18-22). , When Palestine was conquered by the Romans, Antony bestowed THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 165 this district upon Queen Cleopatra as a present. Afterwards it passed into the hands of Herod the Great, who greatly improved it and spent part of his time here. When this tyrant was lying upon Jiis death-bed here, he caused all the nobles of the land to be shut up in the circus, or hippodrome, and gave orders that all should be znassacred as soon as he died. But his bloody edict was not carried into effect (Josephus' Antiquities, XVII, 6, 5). So the Jericho that existed in the time of our Savior was a large and prosperous place; and it was here that he healed the blind man "who sat by the wayside begging (Luke 18:35-43). (As we were passing along we encountered a number of these beggars, which remind- ed us of the gospel narrative.) Here also Christ lodged in the liouse of Zaccheus, and from tliis point I)egan his last jour- ney to Jerusalem (Luke 19). High above the other sum- mits, some three Tniles or more dis- tant, rises Mount Quarantana, the tra- ditional site of Christ's temptation. The cave in which he is said to have spent his forty days' fast is now used as a chapel. Having obtained a good view of the ruins and of Elisha's Spring, we reentered our carriage and started back to the modern village, pass- Modern Jericho ^^S by a fine grove of trees which owes its existence to the waters of one of the fountains. Aside from this the general aspect of the plain around is one of waste and desolation. Dry, sandy, and scorched, the ground which one time flourished with vege- tation now lies apparently woi-n out. This district has been described as "nothing without water, and everything with it." So it may be that if an extensive irrigation system were brought into operation this land might be reclaimed. The village itself consists of perhaps forty or fifty wretched hovels, constructed of mud, with a small sprinkling of stones. The three hundred inhabitants appear to be a vicious, in- dolent, degenerate race ; and as we were warned against their thievish Ulisha's Fountain near Jerlclio 166 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS g THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 167 The Plain of the Jordan propensities, we kept a sharp lookout on our belongings. We stopped for lunch at the Jordan Hotel. In the afternoon we took up our journey in a southeasterly direc- tion across the uncultivated plain of the Jordan. There was nothing here to interest us, aside from its past associations. Here, some place, was Gilgal where the hosts of Joshua encamped before proceeding to encompass Jer- icho (Josh. 4: 19). We remembered also, far back at the beginning of Israelitish history, when the separation between Lot and Abraham took place. Lot chose the fertile plain of the Jordan, which was wat- ered as "the garden of the Lord" (Gen. 13: 10). So, also the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah were probably located somewhere in this plain. THE JORDAN RIVER Our eyes were eagerly watchmg to catch the first view of the Jordan, the most interesting river in the world, be- ing sacred alike to Jew, Ishmaelite, Mo- hammedan, and Christian. But we failed to obtain a dis- tant view; for a thicket of tamarisks, willows, and poplars, which line its banks, obstructed our vision until we stood almost on its banks. The water is muddy and very swift, hence does not possess the majesty and beauty of our rivers in America. I do not wonder why Naaman the leper thought that the clear waters of Damascus were better than the Jordan. The river is very crooked and has a fall of more than 600 feet in its course from the lake of Tiberius to the Dead Sea. The distance between these points is only a little over 60 miles, while the course of the river is over 185 miles. Lieutenant Lynch, who navigated the stream in a boat, reported twenty-seven threatening rapids. Abraham must have crossed this river when he emigrated to Canaan; and it appears that he was within sight of the river when the separation between him and Lot took place (Gen. 13: 10). Later, Our Party on the Jordan River 168 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Jacob said, "With my staff I passed over this Jordan" (Gen. 32: 10). It was also crossed by Gideon (Judg. 8: 4, 5), Abner (2 Sam. 2: 29), David (2 Sam. 17 : 22), and Absalom (2 Sam. 17 : 24. The tribes of Reu- ben, Gad, and the half-tribe of Manasseh, whose residence was on the east side of the Jordan, doubtless crossed it frequently on their way to worship in the land of Canaan. Job also was acquainted with this river ( Job 40 :23 ) , and Jeremiah speaks of "the swelling of Jordan" ( Jer. 12:5). The Jordan was also the scene of some of the notable miracles of Old Testament history. Here, opposite Jericho — probably near where we were standing — Joshua and the hosts of Is- Notable Miracles ^^^^ crossed dryshod ; on which occasion it is said that "the waters which came down from above stood and rose up upon an heap . . . and those that came down toward the sea of the plain . . . were cut off . . . and all the Is- raelites passed over on dry ground" (Josh. 3:16, 17). Here also Elijah, on the day of his translation to heaven, when he had come from Jericho, accompanied by Elisha, "took his mantle, and wrapped it together, and smote the waters, and they were divided hither and thither, so that they two went over on dry ground" (2 Ki. 2:4-8). On his return, Elisha duplicated the miracle by employing the same mantle which had fallen from his ascending master (vs. 13, 14). Of course, the exact place of these events can not be determined. Naaman the Syrian was directed by the prophet to dip himself in the Jordan seven times, that he might be recovered from his leprosy (2 Kings 5). Here also Elisha caused the iron to swim (2 Ki. 6:5, 6). But the event which above all others renders the Jordan sacred to Christians is John's baptism of the multitudes, and especially his Baptism of Jesus baptism of Jesus (Matthew 3). This is said to have occurred at the very spot where we were. In com- memoration of this event large numbers of pilgrims bathe in the river at the time of Easter each year. We appreciated the fact that this place of Bible interest remained in its natural state, unmarred by the hand of man: it was not covered by a church, and no excavations were needed to bring it to light. We stood there with a feeling of assurance that no material change had taken place in its immediate surroundings since the days when the multitudes lined its banks dur- ing John's baptismal services. I also had the privilege here of following our Lord's instructions given to his ministers in the last commission. Brother Pambukdjian, who had been in our meetings in Alexandria and Cairo, and had an- nounced his acceptance of new light, was led to renounce his infant THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 169 p^ Pi 170 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS baptism in the Armenian church, and therefore desired to be immersed in the Jordan. So our little missiorvary company knelt in prayer by the riverside and thanlied God for the gift of his Son tismal Service who, in this place, set the example for us to follow, receiving on that occasion the divine approbation, "I am well pleased." And as we opened our song-book and began to sing, the precious words of Brother Warner's baptismal hymn seemed suddenly to acquire a deeper meaning than heretofore: Down into the flowing river, Lo, the Lamb of God we see; There he speaks in clear example: Take the cross and follow me. Gently buried with my Savior, Let mp sink beneath the wave; Crucified to earth forever, Hence alone to God I live. The Dead Sea Our brother came forth from the symbolic grave with heart overflow- ing with joy. Praise the Lord! We trust that he will walk in all of the light received and lead an exemplary Christian life in the future. THE DEAD SEA We felt loath to leave this sacred spot on the banks of the sacred and historic Jordan; but as our time was passing, we could not re- main longer; so we reentered our carriage and started across the open country enroute to the Dead Sea. The way leads through cur- THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 171 iously shaped, chalk hills. There is no regular carriage road; but as the weather was dry, the clayey soil, which is coated with salt and gypsum, was hard, so we passed along nicely. In less than one hour we arrived at the shore of the Dead Sea, the lowest spot on the sur- face of the earth, being 1,290 feet below the level of the Mediter- ranean. This body of water is mentioned in the Bible under the names "salt sea" (Gen. 14:3), "sea of the plain" (Deut. 3:17), and "east ^ea" (Joel 2:20). By the Greeks and Romans it was' known as the ^'Asphalt Sea." The name "Dead Sea" has been applied to it since the second century. This sea is 47 miles long, 10 miles wide, and its greatest depth, is 1,300 feet. At the southwest end there are large •deposits of rocksalt. It is estimated that more than 6,000,000 tons of water enter the Dead Sea daily, and as it has no outlet, this im^ mense quantity must be carried off by evaporation. As a result of "this extraordinary evaporation, the remaining water is strongly im- pregnated with mineral substances. The chloride of magnesium, largely held in solution, gives the water a very bitter, nauseous taste. It is said that fresh eggs will float in it with one-third of their volume above water. The human body can be submerged in it only with difficulty. This sea is regarded as a symbol of death. The Jordan, originat- ing in the region of Mount Hermon, and skipping lightly from point to point in its descent — symbolic of life and activity — ends here, as in death. Later I read the following poem in a paper published in Jerusalem. I looked upon a sea, All tributary streams And lo! 'twas dead, Found here their grave, Although by Hermon 's snows Because this sea received And Jordan fed. But never gave. How came a fate so dire? O sea that's dead! teach me The tale's soon told: To know and feel All that it got it kept, That selfish grasp and greed And fast did hold. My doom will seal. And, Lord, help me my best, Myself, to give. That I may others bless. And, like thee, live. At this point the view of the sea and the mountains is very beau- tiful. From a distance the water appears deep-blue, but close at hand Scenic Beautv ^^ assumes a greenish hue. On the east and west sides are high, precipitous mountains. On this west side was located the wilderness of Engedi, in which David took refuge in a cave from the wrath of Saul, and in which he spared the life of the 172 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS sleeping monarch (1 Sam. 24:1-8). It was now nearly night, so we started across the open country on the direct route to Jericho, where we arrived at the Jordan Hotel about one hour after dark. At five o'clock in the morning we were ready to begin our long and tiresome journey up to Jerusalem. Our horses proved unequal to their strenuous task, and therefore some of our to Bethany party walked up most of the steep grades. As every- thing in this wilderness of Judea that could possibly interest us had been considered on the going journey, there was noth- ing now to hold our attention except the increasing heat of the morn- Bethany ing sun and the constant climb, climb as we wound around and around in the mountains. Arriving at the Apostles' Spring, the driver stopped to rest his horses. From this point the ascent is very steep,, the long, winding curves of the road finally reaching the top of the ridge on which the village of Bethany is situated, at the base of the Mount of Olives. Four of our party made this ascent on foot. The horses were scarcely able to bring the carriage up. Bethany was a place where Jesus frequently resorted (Mark 11:11, 12). He sometimes lodged here at the house of Mary and Martha (Matt. 21:17; John 11; 12:1, 2). Here in the house of THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 173 Tomb of Lazarus 174 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Simon the leper, the woman anointed Jesus (Mark 14:3). Near the border of this little town Jesus wept with Mary and her friends over Bethany ^^^ death of Lazarus, thence proceeded to the grave,. and raised her brother from the dead (John 11). We went to the traditional tomb of Lazarus. At the entrance we secured candles, then descended twenty-two steps into an antecham- ber; two steps more lead into the tomb itself — a cave (John 11:38),. now lined with masonry. We supposed that Christ stood in this- antechamber when he prayed to the Father, and then cried with a loud voice, "Lazarus, come forth." We next went to the site of the house of Mary and Martha. Some ruins of walls are all that remain here. A few steps away a ruined tower is pointed out as the site of the house of Simon the leper. The present village is Mohammedan, and contains about forty wretched hovels. There is nothing attractive, aside from its pleasant surround- ings and historic associations. There are numerous fig-, almond-, and olive-trees. We had expected to reach Jerusalem at noon, but it was one o'clock when we drew near. As it was Friday, the beginning of the Nebi-Musa festival, a large Mohammedan procession was about to proceed from the St. Stephen's Gate, and we found the carriage road lined on both sides, wherever possible, by an immense crowd of men, women, and children. Our driver succeeded in getting nearly through when the carriage became blocked in the throng and Jerusalem ^^^ delayed for about two hours. Brother Ouzoun- ian and I worked our way through on foot and reached the hotel. The other members of our party who were obliged, in- voluntarily, to witness the parade stated that it was a wild and frightful affair. One chief figure was a man nearly naked who had worked himself up into a perfect frenzy, and was screaming, and brandishing a sword in a most barbarous and threatening manner. After lunch in the hotel, we again entered the Jaffa Gate and passed across the city to the southwest corner of the Temple Area, to visit the Jews' Wailing-Place. The portion of the j-,^ celebrated wall which bears this name is 156 feet long and 59 feet high. The nine lowest courses of stone in the wall consist of huge blocks, venerable with age, and interesting for the fact that they are veritable remains of the old Jewish temple. One of these blocks is 16 1-2 feet long and 13 feet wide. Every Fri- day evening the Jews repair to this place to bewail the downfall of Jerusalem, and to pray for its restoration. This scene is known to THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 175 176 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS have been repeated weekly since the middle ages. As it was Friday evening, we were there at the most favorable time to witness the event. Here were men standing in groups reading from their Hebrew prayer- books or Scriptures, or else engaged in the most earnest and devout conversation with each other. Some were leaning their faces against the weather-beaten wall, as though the cold stones could transfer to them the holiness of past ages. Here also were many women — some young, some middle-aged, and some tottering in the last days of life — kissing the wall, pressing their cheeks against it, and bathing it with tears, thus fulfilling Psa. 102:14: "Thy servants take pleas- ure in her stones, and favor the dust thereof." I have long known of this weekly custom, but supposed that constant repetition would deprive it of genuine feeling, leaving only a shallow form; but as I stood watching the scene, I was convinced that this poor, deluded people who have rejected the Christ of God are really heart-broken when they approach this ancient relic of departed greatness. At this time they chant the following litany: Leader. For the palace that lies desolate Eesponse. We sit in solitude and mourn. Leader. For the temple that is destroyed Eesponse. We sit, etc. Leader. For the walls that are overthrown Response. We sit, etc. Leader. For our majesty that is departed Eesponse. We sit, etc. Leader. For our great men who lie dead Eesponse. We sit, etc. Leader. For the precious stones that are burnt Eesponse. We sit, etc. Leader. For the priests who have stumbled Eesponse. We sit, etc. Leader. For our kings who have despised Him Eesponse. We sit, etc. Another alternate anthem is as follows : Leader. We pray thee, have mercy upon Zion! Eesponse. Gather the children of Jerusalem. Leader. Haste, haste, Eedeemer of Zion! Eesponse. Speak to the heart of Jerusalem. Leader. May beauty and majesty surround Zion! Eesponse. Oh, turn thyself mercifully to Jerusalem! Leader. May the King soon return to Zion! Eesponse. Comfort those who mourn over Jerusalem. Leader. May peace and joy abide with Zion! Eesponse. And the Branch (of Jesse) spring up at Jerusalem. THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 177 Poor deluded souls ! Still they are waiting for the Branch of Jesse to spring up at Jerusalem and restore the Jewish State. Why do they not consult their own Scriptures and learn that when this "Branch," or "root of Jesse," should come, the Gentiles would gather themselves around his standard (Isa. 11:10; 60:3-5); while his own people Avould lead him "as a sheep to the slaughter" (Isaiah 53) — why, I ask, do they not consider these things, and witness their ful- filment in Jesus of Nazareth whom their fathers condemned to cruci- fixion? The only answer that comes back to me is that melancholy reflection of the apostle on the hardened state of the Israelitish na- tion — a "remnant" were saved, "but the rest were blinded" (Rom. 11:5, 7). "Blindness in part is happened to Israel, until the fulness of the Gentiles be come in" (v. 25). To us, one of the strongest proofs of the divine mission of Christ is the exact fulfilment of his prediction of the overthrow of Jerusalem and the subsequent deso- lation and dispersal of the Jewish nation. After visiting the bazaars and making some purchases, we returned to our hotel for the night. TRIP TO BETHLEHEM AND HEBRON Early in the morning of April 19, we left Jerusalem by carriage for a side trip to Bethlehem and Hebron. Passing the Jaffa Gate, we descended into the Valley of Gihon, and then ascended the hill to the southwest j from which position we obtained a good view of the south- ^ ern part of the city. Here was pointed out the tree on which Judas is said to have hanged himself. All of its branches extend horizontally toward the east. It is possible that this tree may be five hundred years old ! About two and one-half miles from Jerusalem we came to an old cistern, the traditional well of the Magi, where they are said to have again seen the guiding star. It is also said that Mary rested here on her way to Bethlehem. Farther along we came to a well from which the holy family is said to have drunk. In about one-half hour we came to the Tomb of Rachel, which is reyered by Jews, Moslems, and Christians i^ the touching scene of Rachel's death. The earliest Scriptural reference is Rachel ^^^^ ' "And Rachel died, and was buried in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pil- lar upon her grave: that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day" (Gen. 35:19, 20). The present monument, surmounted by a dome, is not ancient, but has been restored from time to time. 178 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS fit B o H THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 179 f80 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS We were now nearing Bethlehem, the early home of David, and the birthplace of Jesus Christ. Joab, Asahel, and Abishai also re- sided here. On these neighboring hills the faithful Bethlehem David watched his father's sheep and performed the remarkable feats of slaying a lion and a bear, and from these pasture scenes was called by the prophet Samuel to be anoint- ed king over Israel. To this place the sorrow-stricken Naomi re- turned from the country of Moab, and in these surrounding fields Ruth gleaned after the reapers in the harvest-field of Boaz, who was a resident of Bethlehem. On these hilltops the shepherds, weary with watching their sheep during the long hours of the night, were startled by a supernatural light and the appearance of the heavenly messenger, who announced the birth of the Christ-child; yes, these very hills and valleys echoed that night with the strains of celestial harmony, "Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men" — ■ strains which, taken up by multitudes of redeemed men and women, have been wafted from mountain to mountain and from plain to plain and rolled in one majestic chorus around the world. It is this event which has placed the name of Bethlehem upon all our lips, and which causes our minds to turn to this humble village whenever Christmas- tide comes round. The inspiration of the past seemed suddenly to seize our souls, and we burst forth in joyous song: ''O little town of Bethlehem, How still we see thee lie! Above thy deep and dreamless sleep The silent stars go by: i Yet in thy dark streets shineth - i The everlasting Light; I The hopes and fears of all the years Are met in thee tonight. ^'For Christ is born of Mary; And gathered all above, While mortals sleep, the angels keep Their watch of wondering love. O morning sta,rs, together Proclaim the holy birth! And praises sing to God the King, And peace to men on earth." Near the entrance to the village we followed a footpath to the left, leading to David's well. I recalled the time when David was at war with the Philistines, and his home town, Bethlehem, was in the hands of the enemy. He longingly said, "Oh, that one would give me drink THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 181 182 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS of the water of the well of Bethlehem, which is by the gate!" (2 Sam. 23: 15), whereupon three of his devoted followers undertook David's Well ^^^ perilous task, and succeeded in bringing him the desired water. The grateful king, realizing its cost, regarded it as the blood of the three men who had jeopardized their lives for his sake; therefore he would not drink it, but "poured it out unto the Lord." At the present time the water is not good. We then proceeded to the Church of the Nativity, which is erected over the traditional site of the birthplace of Christ. This church is still in some respects a fine building. The nave is the Nativitv oldest piece of Christian architecture in the world, the remaining part of a grand church erected here by Em- press Helena in 327 A. D. The plain structure of the interior testifies to its age. It has four rows of marble columns containing stones which are said to have once formed a part of the temple at Jerusalem. The roof is formed of rough cedar from Lebanon. A Greek inscription contains an extract from a decree of the Council of Constantinople (381 A. D.) concerning the Godhead of the Holy Ghost. There are ancient scenes, representing Christ's entry into Jerusalem, his ascen- sion, etc. On Christmas Day, 1101, Baldwin was crowned king here. We descended two flights of stairs into the Chapel of the Nativity. As an Armenian service was then in progress there, our guide in- formed us that we could not enter: but Brother Ouzounian pressed forward, saying, "I am an Armenian" ; and when he met the bishop at the entrance, he soon obtained permission for us. The service con- tinued without interruption, the officiating priests paying no atten- tion to us. Under the altar a silver star is set in the pavement, and an inscription states that here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary. Above are fifteen silver lamps which are kept burning per- petually. This spot was richly decorated as early as the time of Constantine. A few feet distant we descended three steps into the Chapel of the Manger. The manger in which Christ is said to have lain is ofi marble, with a white bottom and brown front. We were sure that this claim was nothing but wretched deceit; for a beautiful marble cradle would not have been lying in a stable simply to accommodate the holy child. Furthermore, the original cradle is shown in a church in Rome (?). But the tradition that the birth of Christ took place in a cave is ancient, for it is so stated by Justin M-^rtyr, who wrote in the second century. In the southwest corner of the church we de- scended into the Chapel of the Innocents. According to tradition, a THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 183 number of children who had been brought to this place for safety were slain here by Herod. In an adjoining chapel we were shown the place where Joseph had his dream in which the angel commanded him to flee into Egypt, We then entered another passage where we were shown the tomb of St. Jerome, the great Latin church Father, who was born in Dal- matia about 339 and died at Bethlehem in 420. His Latin version of the Old Testament is the foundation of the Vulgate, the standard of Interior of Churcli of the Nativity — ^Bethlehexa the Latin church until this day. Opposite his tomb the grave of his pupil Paula is shown, also the tomb of her daughter. A little farther to the north we entered the Chapel of St. Jerome, a large apartment hewn out of the rock and now lined with masonry. Here the great Father is said to have lived and written his chief works. A large painting shows Jerome with the Bible in his hand. Leaving Bethlehem, we descended a steep and rocky road leading down to the main road from Jerusalem to Hebron, from which we had diverged at Rachel's Tomb in order to visit Bethlehem. The next place of interest was the Pools of Solomon, six miles from Jerusalem, at the head of the Wady Urtas valley. These remark- able architectural remains date from the time of the old Jewish mon- 184 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS archy. They are three in number, covering about seven acres of ground, and were constructed one above the other by building dams across the valley. They were connected by conduits, Solomon ^^'^ served as a reservoir for the old aqueduct of Jerusalem. The gardens of Solomon are supposed to have been located in the Wady Urtas valley, hence the reference to pools for irrigation purposes mentioned in Eccl. 2:6, is usually iden- tified with these pools — "I made me pools of water, to water there- with the wood that bringeth forth trees." These pools are supplied by four natural springs, the largest of which is the Sealed Fountain. According to tradition, Solomon shut up this spring and sealed it in order to preserve its fresh water for his own drinking purposes. Cant. 4:12 is supposed to refer to this — "A garden enclosed is my sister, my spouse; a spring shut up, a fountain sealed." But these springs did not suffice for the water supply of ancient Jerusalem, so another conduit, emptying into the middle one of these three pools, conveyed water from the valley of 'the Arrub, about six miles distant. The remarkable windings of this conduit equals about forty-seven miles. From the pools the water is conveyed to Jerusa- lem by two different conduits. One of these, partly cut in the rock and partly constructed of masonry, led along the slope of the Wady Urtas and descended into the valley west of Bethlehem near Rachel's Tomb, where it ascends the northern side of the valley again through an inverted stone siphon, constructed of perforated stone blocks firmly united by cement. This siphon is not only remarkable in its construc- tion, but it also shows a knowledge of hydrostatics which even the Romans did not possess when they built their high arched structures for conducting water over the valleys near Rome. This conduit con- nected with the upper Gihon pool near Jerusalem, entered the city at the Jaffa Gate, and supplied the Citadel, Pool of Hezekiah, and other points along the Tyropoeon Valley, until it joined the Pool of Siloam. The other conduit conveyed water to the city from the pools and springs in great windings about twenty miles long. As these pools and fountains have an altitude about two hundred feet above the tem- ple hill, the water was easily conveyed to the highest point in Jeru- salem. The magnitude of this water-system naturally suggests the work of some energetic king, such as Solomon. Pilate afterwards re- paired this conduit with money taken from the temple treasury. We visited the Sealed Fountain. The well-house contains two dark chambers, and in the inner one the water breaks forth from the wall. We also visited the upper and central pools, but for the lack THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 185 CQ 186 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS of time did not descend to the lower one, which is said to be the finest of the three. They are arranged at intervals of about one hundred fifty feet. From the Pools of Solomon we ascended the hill to the southwest, from whence we obtained a good view of Bethlehem and the Mount of Olives. From this point our route was rather uninteresting for some time. The dilapidated towns and ruined terraces gave evidence that this section was. formerly rich and that it had supported a large pop- ^m^KitKmt^F "^ ''^ '?'« '■- -"■■■■■*^*^t:-:::ii— ^^^ fcs^~S^-"^-^P^^&-^ ' ■■.■■'- " --.. ■ ■ '^:%tii. General View of Hebron ulation; but at present it is almost abandoned. The hills are covered with prickly and stunted trees. We passed Beth-Zachariah, where Judas Maccabeus was defeated by Antiochus Eupator. We also saw many rock-tombs and small caverns in a hillside, and a little farther along we came to a spring in which Philip is said to have baptized the eunuch (Acts 8:36-39). This is so marked on the mosaic map of Madeba, already referred to. HEBRON As we approached Hebron, however, we found ourselves entering a most fertile district. Here were beautiful vineyards and fruit or- chards. We remembered that this was the Eschol of the Bible, where the spies obtained the grapes which they carried on a pole back to THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 187 the camp of the Israelitles (Num. 13:22-24). The hilltops, although stony, contained rich pastures in which were many sheep, goats, and cattle. To the left of the road we saw the ruins of a building, of which only the south and west walls are preserved. Three courses of stone are visible, and they consist of blocks of great size. Jewish tradition places here the grove of Mamre of which we read in Genesis. However, the so-called "oak of Mamre" is shown in the garden of the Russian Hospice about one-half hour's drive from Hebron. The trunk of the oak is thirty-two feet in circumference at the bottom, but it is slowly dying. As our time was limited, we did not get to make a side trip from Hebron to this place. Hebron is one of the oldest of existing towns. In Num. 13:22 we read, "Now Hebron was built seven years before Zoan in Egypt." Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob spent much of their life- tlie Patriarchs time here. It was from Hebron that Jacob sent Joseph to seek his brethren, when he was betrayed by them and sold as a slave into Egypt (Gen. 37:14-28); and it was also from this place that the patriarchal family departed for Egypt, by way of Beersheba (Gen. 46:1). At the time of the conquest by the Israelites, Caleb was given Hebron as a reward for his faithful- ness, because (with Joshua) he brought back a good minority report of the country, contrary to the adverse decision of the ten spies (Josh. 10:36, 37 with 14:6-13). Later, however, the city was assigned to the priests and was chosen as one of the three cities of refuge on the west side of the Jordan (Josh. 20:7; 21:11-13); while the inheri- tance of Caleb was removed to the rich suburbs and surrounding vil- lages (Josh. 21:12). When David became king of Judah, he established his capital at Hebron, where he reigned seven and one-half years (2 Sam. 2:1-4, 11). Here, after the death of Saul's son, the elders of the northern! tribes journeyed to see David and requested him to rule over the entire nation, and then anointed him king over all Israel (2 Sam. 5:1-3). But as Hebron is situated near the southern border of Palestine, it was not sufficiently central for .the capital of the nation ; hence David marched to Jerusalem, captured from the Jebusites the stronghold of Zion, and established his capital there (vs. 7, 9). Hebron has since passed through various vicissitudes. In 1187 it was captured by Saladin, and has to this day remained under the Mos- lems, who are notorious for their fanaticism. The present number of inhabitants is about twenty-two thousand, two thousand of whom are Jews ; none are Christians. The place is not often visited by tour- 188 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS ists ; and it may be that one does run a certain risk in going among these fanatical Moslems, said to be the most turbulent in all Pales- tine. But we were specially interested in Hebron because of its asso- ciation with Abraham and the other patriarchs. It was here that Abraham, on the death of Sarah, purchased from Ephron the Hittite, the double-cavern of Machpelah ias a family burid,l-place, in which he was afterwards entombed. Isaac and Jacob, and their wives, Re- bekah and Leah, were also buried here (Gen. 49:29-31). Rachel, it will be remembered, died by the wayside and was buried near Beth- lehem. The cave of Machpelah is now covered by a Mohammedan mosque. This is esteemed by the Moslems as one of the holiest places, and Christians are excluded from it. I understand that a Machoelah ^^^ people of high rank have gained admittance, prob- ably by means of the all-powerful bakshish (money). It is surrounded by a high enclosing wall, which is strengthened on the outside by square buttresses, 16 on each side, and 8 at each end. At the four corners stood minarets, but only two now remain. Up to the height of 39 feet this wall consists of large drafted stones dat- ing back to the Herodian period. On the south side a flight of steps leads up to the interior court of the mosque, which is about 14 feet above the street level. Unbelievers are permitted to advance as far as the seventh step. Brother Pambukdjian and Gerald ran ahead of our guide and reached the thirteenth step before they could be stopped. Knowing that these Moslems were fiercely fanatical and that it would be a very small thing for them to murder a person who had tres- passed in their holy place, the rest of us were very thankful that nd one was in sight at this time except our guide and some small chil- dren. Beside the fifth step is a large stone with a hole in it, and this hole is said to extend down to the tomb. Within the mosque itself, we are told, cenotaphs of Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebekah, Jacob and Leah, are shown; while the tombs themselves are in the CE^ve below. At an earlier period, when the Holy Land was in the power of the Christians, access to this place was not denied. Benjamin of Tudela says that the sarcophagi above ground were shown to most pilgrims as the real ones, but that if some one offered an additional fee "an iron door is opened, which dates from the time of our forefathers who rest in peace, and with a burn- ing tapir in his hands the visitor descends into the first cave, which \s empty, traverses a second in the same state, and at last reaches a third, which contains six sepulchers, those of Abraham, Isaac, and THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 189 Jacob, and those of Sarah, Rebekah, and Leah, one opposite the other. All these sepulchers bear inscriptions, the letters being engraved; thus upon that of Abraham: 'This is the sepulcher of our father Abrja- ham, upon whom be peace' ; even so upoii that of Isaac and all t|io other sepulchers" (Itinerary 1;77)* The identity of this place appears to be beyond dispute, for the ablest and most critical scholars have passed it by without questipn. No wonder that the poor Jews, denied access to the tombs of th^ir fathers, advance every Friday as far as the seventh step, before men- tioned, and lament here as they do at the wailing place jin Jerusalem. I Our guide took us around to a high elevation on the northeast iof the Haram, as this sacred area . is called, and from this position we obtained a good view of the court and buildings within the enclosing^ walls. It is unnecessar}'^ to state that we longed for the privilege of descending into the cave and standing by the real sepulcher of the patriarchs, but such was impossible, therefore we turned away. It was at the gate of Hebron that Abner was assassinated by Joab, and he was buried here (2 Sam. 3:27, 32). A Moslem tomb is pointed out as his tomb; but as there is no likeli- es-Sultan hood of its being genuine, we did not visit it. We next went to the Birket es-Sultan. This pool, constructed of hewn stones, is very ancient and is square in form, being 132 feet on each side. This is undoubtedly "the pool in Hebron" over which David hung the murderers of Ishbosheth (2 Sam. 4:12). Some as- sert that the ancient Hebron lay a little to the west on a hill now covered with olive-trees. At the top of this hill are ruins of old walls, within which is the tomb of Jess^, David's father. This we visited. While climbing this hill, we were trailed by a number of sus- picious-looking men, who endeavored to lead us away from the course which we had previously decided to take; but we succeeded in turn- ing them aside (by the aid of a little money), and returned again into the town. We really felt a sense' of relief when we were again in our carriage on the way back to Jerusalem. It was after eight o'clock at night when we reached our hotel.' ^ 190 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Mmk / P^''"'- '^ M' ' :'\ ... i- ,. ■ p." 1 1 ^'^'i ^^^1 I'f- K' flHHI ■ , ■# BJ^ ,. W -% 1 -^.:..^ ^^M I' ^^Kt p.^ w ■ ^B.'.'^/' ' ■^■'^'■l^ m. 1 ^ w / 'I^H^'^ ' ' r ■: -^. ::i wf^^. ^^^^B' ' '.'.r ■ d. ft- ■ vf%««;' ii. 4 1 r - '1 ' ( ( 1 THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 191 VISITING THE ENVIRONS OF JERUSALEM Next morning, April 20, we started out to visit a few places which had. not been included in our former excursions. Passing around to the east side of the city, we crossed the valley of the Kidron and came to the Garden of Gethsemane. It is a beautiful place, quiet and secluded, and surrounded by a wall. Just outside the present entrance-door is a rock marking the spot, so it is said, where the three disciples slept while Jesus Garden of Gethsemane In the Garden of Gethsemane prayed. We entered by a very low door on the east side. For many cnturies this place has been identified as the scene of our Lord's agony and apprehension, and its location agrees perfectly with the Bible narrative. It is across the Brook Kidron, at the base of the Mount of Olives. The garden belongs to the Franciscans, and they have taken great pains to keep it well preserved. Most interesting of all the things contained in it are eight olive-trees, venerable with age, said to date from the time of Christ. Some of these are of very large size and their trunks are split with age, and without doubt they are slowly dying. Olive-trees are known to attain a very great age. I had seen a great many old ones in the East, but none that present such 192 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS an appearance of extreme old age as these. We have every reason to believe that this was the scene of Christ's earnest prayer on the night of his betrayal; that here, conscious of his coming doom, his hu- manity shrank from the trying ordeal as he cried, "Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless not as I will, but as thou wilt" ; while the extreme agony of his soul manifested itself in the great drops of perspiration which fell from his lovely face; that- here he struggled, and wept, and groaned for sinful man, preparatory to the mock trial, cruel scourging, and rejection of the reviling mul- titude who rushed him onward to Calvary, where amid Nature's con- vulsions he expired — "stricken, smitten of God, and afflicted." While contemplating such scenes as these, our hearts swelling with gratitude for deliverance purchased at such a price, the hot tears found their way to our cheeks. ' ' Beyond where Kidron 's waters flow, So brightly and so free, Behold the loving Savior go To sad Gethsemane. " Leaving the garden, we started southward down the Valley of Je- hoshaphat and soon reached the Tomb of Absalom. The lower part of this peculiar monument consists of a cube about Absalom ^^ ^^^^ square and 21 feet high, cut out of the solid rock so as to leave an area or niche around it. Above the architrave rises a square superstructure of large stone, and abovfe this is a cylindrical structure terminating in a cone, which widens a little at the top like an opening flower. The entire monument is 48 feet in height. In 2 Sam. 18: 18 we read, "Now Absalom in his life- time had taken and reared up for himself a pillar, which is in the king's dale : for he said, I have no son to keep my name in remembrance : and he called the pillar after his own name: and it is called unto this da}', Absalom's place." The " king's dale" has usually been identified with the Valley of Jehoshaphat, hence this tomb is popularly known as Absalom's. In memory of Absalom's disobedience, the Jews used to pelt this monument with stones whenever they passed it. The Ionic half-columns and corner pilasters, and the Doric architrave suggests the Greco-Roman period; therefore scholars now reject the idea of its really being the tomb of Absalom. But we have the plain testi- mony of such a monument's being erected by Absalom. Is it not pos- sible that in a later age the old and rude structure may have been remodeled in harmony with the prevailing taste, thus giving it a more dignified appear&.nce .f* THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 193 A little farther south we came to the Grotto of St. James, which we entered. This is a rock-tomb in which, according to tradition, St. James lay concealed without food from the time of St James ^^^ apprehension of Jesus until after his resurrec- tion. A later tradition makes this his tomb. There are a number of chambers adjacent, containing numerous shaft-tombs. Immediately to the south of the entrance to this grotto is the Pyra- mid of Zacharias, which the Christians say was erected in honor of the Zacharias mentioned by St. Matthew (Matt. 23:35). The monument is about 17 feet square and 30 feet high, and is entirely hewn in the rock. The cube-like lower part is surmounted by a pyramid. The Ionic half-columns with which the sides are adorned seem to point also to the Greco-Roman period. While speaking of the tombs of saints, I might pause in this con- nection and refer to a form of apostasy everywhere Reverence for i i • ii -o a. -i • a Tombs and prevalent m the Hiast — a sacrilegious reverence tor Holy Places dead men's tombs and bones. This has been so well described by W. M. Thomson in "The Land and the Book" that I will just quote his own language: "This is the most prevalent superstition in the great empire of China; and in Western Asia, Jews, Moslems, Metawelies, Druses, Nes- airiyeh, Ismailiyeh, Kurds, Yezedy, Gipsies, and all sects of Chris- tians, are addicted to it. Every village has its saints' tombs — every hilltop is crowned with the white dome of some neby or prophet. Thither all resort to garnish the sepulchers, burn incense and consecrate candles, fulfil vows, make offerings, and pray. So fanatical are they in their zeal, that they would tear any man to pieces who should put dishonor upon these sacred shrines. Enter that at Hebron, for ex- ample, and they would instantly sacrifice you to their fury. Now, it was for rebuking this and other kinds of idolatry that 'the fathers killed the prophets' ; and those who built their tombs would, in like manner, kill any one who condemned their idolatrous reverence for these very sepulchers. Thus the Pharisees, by the act of building these tombs of the prophets, and honoring them as they did, showed plainly that they were actuated by the same spirit that led their fa- thers to kill them ; and, to make this matter self-evident, they very soon proceeded to crucify the Lord of the prophets because of his faithful rebukes. Nor has this spirit changed in the least during the subsequent eighteen hundred years. Now, here in Jerusalem, should the Savior reappear and condemn with the same severity our modern Pharisees, tJiei^ would kill him upon his own reputed tomb. I say 194 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS this not with a faltering perhaps, but with a painful certainty. Alas ! how many thousands of God's people have been slaughtered because of their earnest and steadfast protest against pilgrimages, idolatrous worship of saints, tombs, bones, images, and pictures ! And when- ever I see people particularly zealous in building, repairing, or serv- ing these shrines, I know them to be the ones who allow the deeds of those who killed the prophets, and who would do the same under like circumstances. If you doubt, and are willing to become a martyr, make the experiment tomorrow in this very city. You may blaspheme the Godhead, through all the divine persons, offices, and attributes, in safety; but insult these dead men's shrines, and woe be to you." Nor is this description overdrawn. Everywhere in Palestine and Syria we saw this same fanatical reverence for tombs and holy places, and evidence sufficient to convince us that any viola- o ^™^is In ^^^^ °^ their sanctity would meet with swift retribu- Holy Places tion. But this is not all. The Christian sects fre- quently have the most bitter quarrels among them- selves over their respective rights to these holy shrines. In the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, in Jerusalem, it is necessary to have Moslem guards to preserve order and prevent the Christians {?) from fight- ing and killing each other. In spite of all these precautions violent and shameful quarrels have nevertheless occurred. Once a guard in the Church of the Nativity, at Bethlehem, was observed occupying the same place at all times ; and when asked why he always stood in this position, he pointed to the wall, and said, "I am guarding that nail. The Armenians placed it there, and the Greeks have vowed to pull it out, while the Armenians have vowed that they shall not." Oh what a shame! But enough of this. We now descended to the bottom of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. On the west, high above us, rose the east wall of the Haram esh-Sherif or place of the temple. But excavations have revealed Jehoshaphat ^^^* ^^^ valley outside of the wall has been greatly filled up with rubbish, so that the lower part was once a little farther west and much lower than it is at the present time. Thus at the north end (the northeast comer of the Temple Area) the wall reaches a depth of 118 feet below the present level of thd ground; while at the south end the towering wall which is now 77 1-2 feet high above ground is in reality one-half buried. In ancient days the wall of the Royal Cloister surmounted this, so that in the time of Christ this corner of the wall was over 200 feet in height. It is supposed that the pinnacle of the temple, mentioned in connection THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 195 with Christ's temptation, stood on this corner of the wall. The Kidron Valley being then much deeper than it is at present, the distance from its bed to the top of the wall at this point must have been fully three hundred feet. Thus excavations have shown that the account of Jose- phus concerning the great height of this corner of the wall was not as greatly exaggerated as it was long supposed to be. A little farther south we came to the Fountain of the Virgin, which derives its name from an old legend that states that the Vir- gin once washed the swaddling clothes of her Son here. It was here that Solomon was anointed king (1 Ki. 1:38). It has thirty steps down to the water, which lies in a bason 11 1-2 feet long and 5 feet wide. Many women were coming here to fill their large jars with water. These they carried away on their heads. At a very early period efforts were made to convey this water into the city. The earliest was by a channel cut in the rock, and which conveyed the Water to the Pool of Shiloah (Siloam), which lay a little farther down the valley and was enclosed by the ancient city wall. Perhaps this was referred to by the prophet Isaiah, who speaks of "the waters of Shiloah that go softly" (Isa. 8:6). But in time of war this channel would not be allowed to convey water into the city, as the spring would be appropriated by the enemy ; therefore one of the early kings constructed a subterranean passage which would convey this water into the city, and thus deprive the enemy of its benefits. And this recalls one remarkable feature of an- cient Jerusalem — its water supply was always abundant, while be- sieging enemies suffered terribly for lack of water. The construction of this underground channel was doubtless the work of King Heze- kiah, for we read that "he made a pool, and a conduit, and brought water into the city" (2 Ki. 20:20). The channel is of very rude construction and is not straight, but has several windings; and a number of places in the sides indicate that the workmen frequently lost their way. The distance of the channel is over 1,700 feet. It is possible to pass through this channel; but as the spring is inter- mittent, it is dangerous to do so, for water frequently fills it quite unexpectedly. Another object of special interest is connected with this subterranean channel. In 1880 the oldest Hebrew inscription known was found in this channel near the south end. It gives in de- tail an account of the construction of the channel, and states that the workmen began working at both ends. After receiving this informa- tion the channel was again examined, and the place was found near the middle where the picks of the diggers met. This ancient inscrip- 196 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS tion on a block of stone I afterwards saw in the Imperial Museum in Constantinople. We continued our course down the valley until we came to Job's well, which is located at the place where the Valley of Hinnom joins the Valley of Jehoshaphat. The well is 125 feet deep. We had a drink from its water, which is very good. We then turned westward into the Valley of Hinnom, the Hebrew name of which is Ge Ben Hinnom. In this place lay Tophet, where the children of Israel in their apostasy reverted to the Hinnmn most shocking rites of idolatry, as we read in Jer. 7: 31, "And they have built the high places of Tophet, which is in the valley of the son of Hinnom, to burn their sons and their daughters in the fire." When King Josiah overthrew this idol- atry, he defiled the valley by casting into it the bones of the dead, the greatest of all pollutions among the Hebrews. This he did in order to make the valley itself unclean and detestable, and thus prevent the recurrence of such fearful idolatry (2 Ki. 23:10). From this time it was used for a dumping-ground into which every kind of refuse was cast, the combustible portion being consumed by fire. It thus be- came a sort of type of hell, to which the word Gehenna (contraction of the Hebrew Ge-Hinnom) is applied in the New Testament. It was now time for us to return to our hotel for lunch. Being midday, the sun beat down upon us, and it was extremely hot in the bottom of that valley, which is 350 feet below the Temple Area. Therefore we did not feel like following the Valley of Hinnom around to the west side of the city; instead, we turned to the north and as- cended the hill directly to the south wall of the city. We will not soon forget that climb in the hot sun, with the disagreeable odor from the valley greeting us at every step — for Hinnom is still the place where refuse-matter is cast. When we reached the top, nearly ex- hausted, and stopped to wipe the perspiration from our faces. Sister Hittle remarked that it was pleasant, after spending so many hours in the "valley of hell," to stand on the top of Mount Zion where we could get a good breath of God's pure air. We followed the city wall around to the Jaffa Gate, and then proceeded to our hotel, where we remained the rest of the day. We arranged to leave Jerusalem next morning for Nabulus. About six o'clock we were all ready, with luggage at the door, waiting for our carriage to come. After waiting for some time, Brother Ouzounian and I went to see what was the matter, and found that the man whom we had engaged to take us had gone on THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 197 another drive; so we were left. We endeavored to find an- other carriage, but it was then too late to start, so we were obliged to remain until the next day. We had sufficient experience to con- vince us that the majority of carriage-owners and Carriage-Drivers drivers could not be trusted at all. We finally learned that we must do like other travelers were doing — re- quire the carriage-owner to deposit money with us when an agreement was made, in order to guarantee his presence at the stated time. This we found to be a very efficient method, but it seemed very strange to me that these carriage-men should give money to us who were strangers. They appeared much more willing to trust us than we were to trust them. One night Brother Ouzounian and I started out to secure a carriage for the next day. As we proceeded along a very dark street, we came to a carriage and soon an agreement was entered into. Brother Ouzounian asked them for money, and they unhesi- tatingly advanced an amount equal to about two-thirds of what we were to pay them the next day. After we left, I remarked that I did not think I could ever identify those men or the carriage, and I did not believe they could identify us. But the next morning the car- riage was at our hotel at the appointed time. Some things we learn by books, and some other things we must learn by experience. But we felt that perhaps after all it was the will of God for us to remain another day in Jerusalem. During our stay our time had been so completely occupied in visiting the various literltur?^ places of interest that we had not gotten to do as much spiritual work as we had hoped, so this extra day gave good opportunity for going among the people and distrib- uting many tracts in the English, French, and German languages. Brother Ouzounian was very useful in this work and in talking with the people. In the afternoon there was a number of new arrivals at the hotel, and in the evening one of this number came up-stairs where we were sitting in the public hall, and we engaged in conversation. He seemed very much interested in the truth, claimed to have a def- inite, personal experience of salvation; and we trusted that through this short visit he would be brought out into the full light of the gospel of Christ. He gave us his address, Cairo, Egypt, which is Brother Ouzounian's home ; so we hoped he would become useful in the work there. Later, however, we received word that on his return to Egypt from Jerusalem he was taken sick on the sea, and died after reaching Cairo. How uncertain is life ! 198 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS FROM JERUSALEM TO NAZARETH Early the next morning, April 22, we placed our luggage in a large, three-seated carriage, which had been secured the day before, and started on our long, overland trip to Nabulus, Nazareth, and Ti- berius. We skirted the north city wall as far as the Damascus Gate, then turned to the left and took the direct road to Nabulus, which traverses a lofty plain in a northerly direction. The day was beautiful. Looking backward, we took our last view of the Holy City, which appeared glorious in the resplendent rays of the morning sun. I felt that I could now appreciate Thoughts better than ever before the rapturous phrase of the Psalmist when he exclaimed, "Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is Mount Zion, on the sides of the north, the city of the great king." In the days of the Hebrew monarchy this sight of the sacred city spread out in its glory must have glad- dened the heart of many a toiling pilgrim who was wending his way upward to Jerusalem, "the place where men ought to worship." But our feelings were not those of abounding joy: they were mingled with a strain of sadness ; for to us Jerusalem is the best city in the world, and the worst city in the world — the place where God chose to set his name, where spiritual light, and revelation, and divine glory cen- tered; and the place also where Israel apostatized, where the prophets were stoned, and where our Christ was rejected and slain — yea, a dark cloud of infamy hangs forever over this unholy place which is still known, however, as the Holy City. As we were passing along the road, we overtook a large crowd of men accompanied by some soldiers in uniform. We were informed that this company had been drafted for military service in the Balkan war, and was being taken to Damascus. Some were mere boys. Be- ing dressed in different costumes, they presented a very strange ap- pearance. A number of women and children, presumably the wives and children and mothers of these unfortunates, were following from Jerusalem, some of them weeping. It seemed sad to us to see these Christless souls rushed forward to the battle-front simply to become *'flesh for cannon," as Napoleon used to say. What a terrible thing is war! One of these men made some angry demonstrations toward us, for no other reason, I suppose, than that we were Christians; for the Moslems regard the Balkan war as a conflict between Moslems and Christians. Some of our party became rather nervous and were glad THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 199 when we had left the rough and undesirable company far behind. About forty minutes from the Damascus Gate we passed Shafat, where there are the remains of a church, and a small reservoir hewi^ jj-qIj in the rock. This has been identified as Nob, a city of Benjamin, belonging to the priests. It was there that the tabernacle was stationed during the reign of Saul (1 Sam. 21:1). Here David and his young men came — tired and hungry, while fleeing from the wrath of Saul — and requested the priest of Nob to allow them to eat of the showbread, which he permitted (1 Samuel 21). Saul's chief herdsman, an Edomite, was present on this occasion; and he returned to Saul and reported the matter, which so angered the king that he called the priests before him, reproached them for aiding David in his flight, then ordered his servants to slay them all. But they refused to stretch forth their hands against the priests of the Lord. The king then ordered the Edomite to do this wretched work, and he slew eighty-five of those who wore the sacer- dotal garments, then proceeded to Nob and utterly destroyed the city, putting men, women, and children to the sword ( 1 Sam. 22 : 9-19 ) . A little farther along we saw on a hill to the right some ruins where "Gibeah of Benjamin" was formerly located. This is the same Gibeah ^® "Gibeah of Saul," for Saul was born here, and con- tinued to make this his residence after he became king (1 Sam. 10:26; 11:4). This was the scene of that abominable wickedness which involved in its consequences the destruction of near- ly all of the tribe of Benjamin (Judges 19). This was also the scene of Jonathan's romantic exploit against the Philistines (1 Samuel 14). Here also the Gibeonites in revenge hung the seven sons of Saul (2 Samuel 21). About nine and one-half miles from Jerusalem we halted at the village of El-Bireh, believed to be the ancient Beeroth, a town of Ben- Beeroth jamin (2 Sam. 4:2, 3), It contains about one thou- sand inhabitants, chiefly Christian. An ancient tra- dition represents this as the place where Joseph and Mary first dis- covered the absence of the child Jesus from their company, as re- corded in Luke 2 : 43, 44. Shortly after leaving this place, we saw on a hill to the right the village of Beitin, which is identical with the Bethel of Old Testament history. The oldest name of the place was Luz. Here Jacob, fleeing from the wrath of his brother Esau, tarried for the night and laid[ down to sleep, his head resting upon a stone. There he saw in vision a ladder extending from heaven to earth with the angels of God as- 200 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 201 cending and descending upon it; while Jehovah himself, speaking from . the skies, assured the patriarch of the divince presence, and repeated the covenant-promise. When Jacob awak- ened, he took his stone pillow, set it up for a pillar, anointed it, and called the name of the place Bethel, which signifies "House of God" (Gen- esis 28). Afterwards Jacob returned to this place and reconsecrated it. At this time there seems to have been no town here, but at the time of the conquest it is mentioned as one of the royal cities of the Canaanites (Josh. 12:16). The ark remained here for some time. Later it is mentioned as one of the cities of Samuel's circuit where he in rotation held his court of justice (1 Sam. 7:16). When the ten tribes revolted, under Jeroboam, and established the northern kingdom. Bethel was included in its territory, though originally as- signed to Benjamin. The crafty Jeroboam was aware that if Jerusalem remained as the center of worship for his subjects, they would soon return to their allegiance to the king of Judah; therefore he sought to break up this spiritual unity which God had himself ordained. In order to accomplish his design he told his people that it was "too much for them to go up to Jerusalem." So he made two golden Center of calves and set one here in Bethel, the extreme south- Idolatrous . . T 1 .1 • -Tk Worship ern part of his possession; and the other m Dan, on the northern border. In these places the Israelites worshiped Jehovah under the symbol of a golden calf. From the rec- ord it appears that Bethel became the chief seat of this detestable worship, Jeroboam's priests offering sacrifices and burning incense upon the altar which he erected (1 Ki. 12:26-33). God was highly displeased with this course and sent a prophet to Bethel, who cried out against the altar, and announced that the time would come when a king of Judah, Josiah by name, )vould burn upon that unholy altar the bones of its priests. Jeroboam stretched forth his hand to arrest this prophet, and immediately his hand was smitten with palsy, so that he could not draw it back; and at the same time the prediction of the prophet was attested by another visible sign ; for the altar was rent asunder and the ashes strewn around. Jeroboam besought the prophet to restore his hand, which the prophet did. Still this unscrupulous king, unmindful of Jehovah's manifest dis- pleasure, refused to abandon a policy so well calculated to serve the political interests of his kingdom. And it is a noticeable fact that no subsequent king of Israel attempted to root out this idolatrous wor- ship ; therefore "the sin of Jeroboam the son of Nebat, wherewith he 202 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS sinned and made Israel to sin," became a standing phrase in describ- ing the iniquity of successive kings who allowed this worship to con- tinue. Three and one-half centuries later Josiah, king of Judah, overthrew this idolatrous worship in exact fulfillment of the predic- tion of the man of God (2 Ki. 23: 13-16). About thirty-five minutes from El-Bireh we entered the Wadi Jifna, one of the most fertile regions in Palestine, abounding with vineyards and orchards. We were delighted with the jifjia^ scene, which formed such a pleasing contrast with the greater part of the country yiet visited; for with the exception of the environs of Jaffa, the plain of Sharon, and the environs of Hebron, the country did not present that degree of fruit- fulness which we have reason to believe existed in earlier ages. In the bottom of the valley lies Jifna, a pleasantly situated little village of six hundred Christian inhabitants. It was once a place of con- siderable importance. In A. D. 69 it was captured by Vespasian, who made it the capital of one of the ten toparchies into which Judea was divided by the Romans. On the hill to the north- west lies Tibneh, the ancient Tiranath-serah, where Joshua resided, and was buried. His grave is still shown among other rock-tombs. Farther along we traversed the "Glen of the Robbers," where there are numerous rock-tombs and caverns, said to have been formerly oc- cupied by robbers. The scenery here is exceedingly the^ Robbers picturesque. We soon came to a broad, well-culti- Shiloli vated plain from which we could see in the distance Seilun, which is built on the site of the ancient Shiloh. Here the tabernacle and ark of the covenant stood from the days of Joshua, through the period of the Judges, down to the end of Eli's life. Here a festival was celebrated annually, on which occasion the daughters performed in dances. Here it was, on one of these occa- sions, that the surviving men of the desolated tribe of Benjamin laid in wait and kidnapped the young women of Shiloh in order to secure wives for themselves (Judg. 21:19-23). This was the residence of Eli and of the youthful Samuel. Here by the wayside sat the aged priest, waiting for news concerning the battle with the Philistines, when he was informed that Israel was smitten, his two sons slain, and ths ark of God taken; then he fell backwards from his seat and died (1 Samuel 4). After the loss of the ark, which was never returned to this place, Shiloh lost its importance; but at what time the destruc- tion which Jeremiah predicted overtook the city we do not know. In the time of Jerome it was in ruins. 1 THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 203 204 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Our carriage road now ascended rapidly, and after a half-hour's continuous climb we reached the top of the pass, from which an ex- tensive view spread out before us Mount Hermon being visible in clear weather — while far below was the broad, green bason, El- Lubban. Our road now descended in long windings until we reached the valley where there was a nice spring of water. Here we stopped to eat our lunch, which we had brought from the hotel in Jerusalem. The first part of the afternoon drive presented no objects of spe- cial interest, except that in the distance before us we could see Mount "Jacob's Well" Gr^^'i^™ ^^d Mount Ebal. Passing around the base of Mount Gerizim to the northeast, we arrived at Jacob's Well. This well was made by the patriarch, who sojourned in this vicinity, where he purchased a "parcel of ground" from the sons of Hamor (Gen. 33:19), and where the Israelites afterwards buried Joseph (Josh. 24:32). Here Jesus rested on his journey from Judea to Galilee and conversed with the woman of Samaria who came to draw water, delivering to her one of the most remarkable discourses of his lifetime — a discourse in which the true nature of God, his demand for a spiritual worship, and the universality of ac- ceptable religious worship, are for the first time made prominent. This well now lies in the crypt of a Crusader's Ghapel, over which the Greeks have now erected a new chapel. We found here another monotonous religious service in progress ; but we entered, nevertheless, and took a drink from this ancient well. It is seven and one-half feet in diameter and is seventy-five feet deep, notwithstanding the large amount of rubbish that has been thrown into it. Near by is Jo- seph's tomb, where he was buried by the Israelites, who conveyed his bones from Egypt for this purpose. The monument was restored in 1868» From Jacob's well we turned westward into the fertile and well- cultivated valley of Nabulus, which is bounded on the north by Mount Ebal and on the south by Mount Gerizim. In about twenty minutes we reached the gate of Nabulus, the ancient Shechem. NABULUS (SHECHEM) Nabulus is the only town aside from Jerusalem that ever became the capital of Palestine. It is a town of hoar antiquity, for it is mentioned in the days of the patriarchs — Abraham,. Sketch Isaac, and Jacob all encamped here (Gen. 12:6, etc.). In the days of the conquest its central location, as well as other advantages, made it the chosen place for general gath- erings of the tribes of Israel. Immediately after the destruction of THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 205 206 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Jericho and Ai, Joshua "built an altar unto the Lord God of Israel on Mount Ebal," and wrote a copy of the law of Moses which he read unto the children of Israel, who gathered in this valley for that pur- pose, half of them standing "over against Mount Gerizim, and half of them over against Mount Ebal" (Josh. 8:30-35). Joshua also held his last assembly of the people here, on which occasion they solemnly agreed to put away the gods of the heathen and to "serve the Lord" (Josh. 24:1-26). Here we were in the place that figured so prominently in the early history of Israel. These very rocks echoed back the words of Israel's noble leader; and had we been here at that time, we could have heard his very language as his voice rang out over the narrow valley. Later, after the death of Solomon, a national assembly was held here to con- sider the matter of his succession, and the policy that should be fol- lowed. Rehoboam, Solomon's son, had begun to reign, and the people of the northern tribes now offered him sovereignty upon condition that he would relieve them of the heavy taxes that had been imposed upon them by his father in his building operations. Rehoboam lis- tened to the counsel of some young men, and answered the people roughly, whereupon these ten tribes revolted from his authority, chose Jeroboam for -their king, and set up the independent kingdom of Is- rael, with Shechem for its capital. Afterward, Omri transferred the royal residence to the newly founded Samaria. The later history of Shechem is intertwined with the affairs of Samaria; but I will now refer to it briefly, on account of its bearing o«-tise present religious life of Nabulus. In 722 B. C. the Assyrians captured Samaria and carried away the inhabitants of this district, thus ending the national life of the northern kingdom. The ten tribes are thenceforth With ^Samaria "lost" to history. Later the places of the deport^ Jews were filled by Eastern pagan colonists (2 Ki. 17: 24). "Thus the new Samaritans were Assyrians by birth or sub- jugation. . . . They were annoyed by beasts of prey, which had probably increased to a great extent before their entrance upon the land. On their explaining their miserable condition to the king of Assyria, he, believing that they had offended the god of the land, despatched one of the captive priests to teach them *how they should know the Lord.' " The priest came accordingly, and henceforth the Samaritans had a mixed religion, the worship of idols being associated with the worship of the one true God. The kingdom of Judah, with T^-^in^nlpm for its capital, still remained. Later, however, came tlr THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 207 Babylonish captivity, when the kingdom of Judah was subverted, and its people were carried away to Babylon, where they remained for seventy years. After the return, when the work of rebuilding the temple in Jeru- salem began, the Samaritans desired to unite with them, saying, "Let us build with you : for we seek your God, as ye do ; Estrangement ^^^ ^^ ^^ sacrifice unto him since the days of Esar- Samaritans haddon king of Assur, which brought us up hither" (Ezra 4:2). But this proposed union was scorned by the Jews, who replied, "Ye have nothing to do with us to build a house unto our God; but we ourselves together will build unto the Lord God of Israel" (Ezra 4:3). Angered by this refusal, the Sa- maritans threw every obstacle in their way, and by writing a special letter to the king of Persia, succeeded in hindering for a time the work of restoration at Jerusalem. Under the leadership of Sanbal- lat, who was the moving spirit in the opposition (Neh. 2: 10, 19), they built a temple of their own on Mount Gerizim and set up a rival wor- ship. During the absence of Nehemiah in Persia, a son of Joiada, the high priest, probably Manasseh, married the daughter of Sanbal- lat (Neh. 13:28), and rather than forsake her as the Mosaic law re- quired, he (according to Josephus) went over to the Samaritans and became their high priest in the temple erected by his father-in-law. From these circumstances arose that inveterate enmity between the two nations which afterwards became proverbial — "the Jews have no dealings with the Samaritans." The very name Samaritan became a term of reproach among the Jews; therefore some of them said to Christ, "Thou art a Samaritan, and hast a devil" (John 8:48). Hence as a matter of policy Jesus at first commanded his apostles not to enter into any city of the Samaritans to preach (Matt. 10:5). Jesus himself, however, ventured to preach to the Samaritan woman at the well-side; and when he saw that it produced a favorable impres- sion on the inhabitants of the town, he turned aside from his journey and spent two days here, during which time many believed on him (John 4:39, 40). Their temple was destroyed by John Hyrcanus in B. C. 129, but they continued to regard its site as sacred. It was about four o'clock in the evening when we reached our hotel in Nabulus (Shechem), so we left our luggage there and pro- ceeded at once to view the place. Although it is a prosperous town of 27,000 inhabitants, we were not greatly interested in it. Our chief interest lay in the Sect of the Samaritans, who are the lineal descend- ants of the aforementioned people, and who to this day perpetuate on 208 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS The Sect of the Samaritans Mount Gerizim the worship of their fathers. Three times each year — at the feast of unleavened bread, the feast of weeks, and the feast of tabernacles — they make a pilgrimage to the top of the sacred mountain. They celebrate all of the Mo- saic festivals. At the feast of the passover seven white lambs are sacrificed. Dean Stanley says that "probably in no other locality has the same worship been sustained with so little change or interruption for so great a series of years as in this mountain. In their humble synagogue at the foot of the mountain, the Samaritan Passover Encampment on Mount Gerizim Samaritans still worship — the oldest and the smallest sect in the world, distinguished by their noble physiognomy and stately appearance from all other branches of the race of Israel. In their prostrations at the elevation of their revered copy of the Pentateuch they throw them- selves on their faces in the direction, not of priest or law, or any ob- ject within the building, but obliquely towards the summit of Mount Gerizim. And up the side of the mountain and on its long ridge is to be traced the pathway by which they ascend to the sacred spots where they alone, of all the Jewish race, yearly celebrate the paschal sac- rifice." Securing a guide, we proceeded at once to the southwest part of THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 209 CQ 210 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS the town to visit their synagogue. Our way across the town led through crooked and winding streets, many of which were covered, forming long, dark tunnels through which we groped The Samaritan a • • i ii_ j £ xt, t.- i. Svnagoeue ^^^ way. Arriving at the door oi the synagogue, which is a small white-washed chamber, we were informed that the entire company was absent, being at this time encamped for seven days on the mountaintop during the annual feast of the Passover. I felt keenly disappointed in failing to meet any of them,- so turned to our guide and asked him if he could not take us at once to the top of the mountain where they were. He re- Moiint Gerizim pli^^ that the time was not sufficient, but said that he could on the morrow. I then stated that we must leave the city early in the morning, therefore he must take us now. He at last yielded to our requirement, and we started on our rapid climb, for it was absolutely necessary that we make the return before dark. It is supposed to take about one and one-fourth hours to make the ascent, as the mountain is 2,848 feet high and the path long and wind- ing, but we arrived at the top in about forty minutes, a little tired, it is true. As this was the time of their greatest festival, we considered it a special privilege to be here at this time. About the first thing we observed was a number of tents — not so many as we had expected to see, for this small remnant of the ancient nation has now dimin- ished to about 170 persons, of whom about two- thirds are men. They never marry outside of their sect, and when a married man dies, his nearest relative, other than his brother, is bound to marry the widow. Bigamy is permitted if the first wife be childless. They are strict monotheists. The only Scripture they have is the Pentateuch, of which they possess the oldest copy in existence. On entering this village of tabernacles, we were met by a small crowd of boys and girls, then some men, one of whom (the son of the high priest) conducted us to the tent of the high The Samaritan • . i ne j n i i. • Pentateuch priest, where we were oiiered some refreshments m accordance with the established Oriental custom. They then proceeded to impart to us information concerning their people, and then our host on this occasion secured a key, unlocked a case, and brought out the ancient copy of their Pentateuch. I was informed in advance that at the synagogue an inferior codex was usually palmed off on travelers, while the genuine one was kept in a costly case cov- ered with green Venetian cloth. I have since learned that the genu- ine one is not used by them except once each year, on the occasion of the feast of the Passover. So when he exhibited this codex, I saw THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 211 at once that it was really the ancient one. It is written on yellow parchment. "The case is of silver, as large as a stove-pipe, cut The Samaaritau Pentateuch lengthwise into three sections, and with two sets of hinges at the back, so that it will open and show a column of text, or close and protect 212 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS all from the light. At the top are three large knobs, the middle one a dummy and the two end ones rolls by which the parchment is rolled forward or back. The case itself is about eighteen inches high; but the knobs above and the legs below make the entire height about thirty inches. The five books of Moses, which are all the Bible that the Samaritans receive, are written on the hairside of skins of lambs offered in sacrifice. The entire roll is probably sixty or more feet in length." I understand that it has been many years since it has been junrolled, for owing to its extreme age it is very brittle and they do aiot wish to injure it. So I suppose no one now living knows the exact length of it, although Condor was told that it contains twenty-four skins. The Samaritans claim that it was written by a grandson of Aaron, and when I asked its age, they replied, confidently, that it is 3,576 years old. According to our chronology this would es 1 e antedate Aaron himself. While no dependence can Manuscript \ be placed in these claims, the manuscript has been conceded by many scholars to be as old as the Christian era, in which case it is the oldest manuscript of the Bible in the world. The three oldest Greek manuscripts of the New Testament — the Al- exandrian, in the British Museum; the Vatican, at Rome; and the Sinaitic, at Petrograd — do not antedate the fourth century. Our oldest Hebrew manuscript of the Old Testament does not date back further than the tenth century; while this Samaritan manuscript of the Pentateuch in Hebrew may be 1,000 years older. These facts made it extremely interesting to us. In some particulars it deviates from all other texts, but it is not regarded by scholars as possessing supreme importance, though valuable for reference and examination in critical study. From this oldest codex, the Samaritans have de- rived all their other manuscripts of the Pentateuch. The one usually exhibited is doubtless very old. Desiring to obtain accurate information concerning the religious ideas of this interesting people, I purchased from them a small work Messianic Hone entitled, "The Messianic Hope of the Samaritans," written by their present leader, "Jacob, Son of Aaron, High Priest of the Samaritans." As the name implies, this work treats of a Messiah yet to come, and their hope is based particularly on Deut. 18 : 15^ — "The Lord thy God will raise up unto thee a Prophet from the midst of thee, of thy brethren, like unto me ; unto him shall ye hearken"; also verses 18 and 19. When asked whether their Messiah was expected to be in any sense divine, the high priest THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 213 replied: "The Messiah will not be in any sense the Son of God. He will be a prophet like Moses and like his brethren." In regard to the mission of this Messiah he said: "The Messiah will be a prophet as I have told you . . . he is to be a King, and rule the earth from Shechem, the ancient city of power, and from his holy mountain, Gerizim. He will call all the world to acknowledge him, and they will do so." Concerning the continuation of the Passover, he said: "The Passover will continue after the Messiah comes. It is a perpetual feast. It has no reference whatever to the Messiah." He was asked concerning the Scripture in Gen. 49 : 10 : "The scepter shall not de- part from Judah, nor a lawgiver from between his feet until Shiloh come; and unto him shall the gathering of the people be." To this he replied: "While there is some difference of opinion about Gen. 49: 10, which tells at what time the scepter shall depart from Judah, there is light to be found in the form of the name Shiloh. The Jews make it two words, but in the Samaritan Torah it is but one word, and that is the name Solomon. The characteristics which Jacob attribute to Shiloh belong very well to the character of Solomon. For he it was who set up idolatry in Jerusalem that he might please his heathen wives ; and further built there the temple for the pretended ark. . . . Then it was that the scepter departed from Judah, and under his son Rehoboam, though he came back to the true capital, Shechem, to be anointed king, the true Israel revolted, and set up the kingdom in Shechem where it belonged, and the scepter departed from Judah." While we were viewing these things within the tent, religious ser- vices, led by the high priest, were in progress on the outside; so we went out to witness the scene. We passed around to A Samaritan ^j^^ place where the sacrifices are offered, but we were Rehgious ^ . . . . Service too late in the day to witness the sacrifice itself. Here mats were spread out on the ground. The worshipers were men arrayed in long white garments, ' standing in a semi-circle ; while the high priest, clad in long, sacerdotal robes, stood out in front with his back turned towards them. They were repeating prayers, and at intervals would prostrate themselves on the ground. These prayers are recited in the ancient Samaritan tongue, though the peo- ple speak the colloquial language of the country ^Arabic. While vicA^dng this scene, I recalled, with fresh meaning, the words of the Samaritan woman to Christ at the well-side, "Our fathers worshiped in this mountain" ; and now after the lapse of nearly nineteen centuries we were witnessing their lineal descendants continuing the same devotions. 214 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS But as it was nearly dark, we now made our way as rapidly as posi^ible down the steep, stony slopes of the mountain. Here a splen- did view of the city i;^ obtained, but we did not have time to halt very long. It is needless to say that we were very tired by the time we? reached the bottom, and were glad for a place of rest when we arrived safely at our hotel. We arranged for an early start next morning, for the day's drive to Nazareth was a very long one. We continued our course westward through the valley of Nabulus. On the right arose Mount Ebal, and near the top, on the West side, we could see a Moslein weli which at- tracts many pilgrims for it is said to contain the skull of John the Baptist. SAMARIA In about one hour we arrived at Sebastiyeh, the ancient Samaria, to which reference has already been made. The city stood on the top of an oblong hill, or mountain, which rises in the ITatural . ... Situation midst of a deep valley about five or six miles wide. Beyond this valley the mountains rise on every side like a wall surrounding the city, which is thus completely isolated. But the situation was indeed beautiful. These mountains are ar- ranged in terrace^, planted with corn, fig-trees, and olives ; while here and there small villages give variety to the scene. The hill of Sa- maria itself is cultivated, the terraced sides and summit being cov- ered with corn and olive-trees. This site was selected and the foun- dation of the city was laid by Omri, king of Israel, in the tenth cen- tury B. C. The account of this transaction is given in 1 Ki. 16: 24, as follows : "And he bought the hill Samaria of Shemer for two tal- ents of silver, and built on the hill, and called the name of the city which he built, after the name of Shemer, owner of the hill Samaria." His son Ahab continued the work thus begun, adorning and beautify- ing the city; he erected here a house of Baal with an altar, and tluis "provoked the Lord God of Israel to anger" (1 Ki. 16:32, 33). Samaria was the scene of many of the acts o^ Elii^h and Elisha. In this plain below the city gathered the hosts of Syria led by Ben- hadad and thirty-two kings with him in confederation, Bible Times ^^^ here they were overthrown, for God delivered them into the hands of Ahab (1 Kings 20). Here Elisha dwelt at the time when Naaman, the Syrian leper, visited him for the purpose of receiving a cure for his leprosy, and when the prophet instructed Naaman to go to the river Jordan and dip himself in it seven times. And here Gehazi, the covetous servant, was smit- THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 215 216 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS ten with the leprosy (2 Kings 5). To this place Elisha led the blind Syrian army who had surrounded him at Dothan, After they had entered Samaria, their eyes were opened in answer to his prayer, and they were surprised to find themselves in the capital city surrounded by their enemies. When the king of Israel asked if he should slay them, the gracious prophet said, "No," but commanded the king to set provisions before them and then send them back to their master (2 Ki. 6:8-23). But one of the most remarkable miracles wrought in Samaria took place ' in the time of famine and war. Benhadad besieged the city again} and there was a sore famine within, until even refuse com- manded an exhorbitant price. Some of the women, maddened by hun- ger, ha;d gone so far as to slay and eat their own children; and this so angered the king, who seemed to regard Elisha as being in some way responsible for their distress, that he ordered his servant to go and bring the head of the prophet. Elisha, however, was forewarned by the Lord; and the king's murderous design was thwarted. At this time the prophet predicted incredible plenty in the city of Samaria within the, next twenty-four hours. During the night the Lord trou- bled the camp of the Syrians, and they fled, leaving behind all of their provisions and stores ; and in the morning four lepers who were lying at the gate of the city, pressed by hunger, entered boldly into the Syrian camp, and were surprised beyond measure to find it empty. Here they feasted and plundered, until finally one said, "We do not well: this is a day of good tidings, and we hold our peace," They brought the good report into the city ; soon the siege was raised, and provisions were plentiful, according to the word of prophet (2 Ki. 6:24.-33; 7). Here also the seventy sons of Ahab were beheaded and their heads sent in baskets to Jezreel, thus fulfilling the word spoken by Elijah, that the entire house of Ahab should be cut off for their wickedness (2 Ki. 10: 1-7). And here also Jehu gathered all of the followers of Baal, ostensibly for the purpose of holding a great feast in the house of Baal, but in reality for the purpose of slaying all of Baal's disci- ples. He stationed soldiers at the doors ; and when the idolatrous rites began, they fell upon the worshipers and destroyed them to the last man (2 Ki. 10:18-28). Samaria continued to be the capital of the northern kingdom until its overthrow by the Assyrians in 722 B. C. Afterwards John Hyrcanus took the city and destroyed it, but it was again rebuilt. Later it was presented by Augustus to Herod, and that monarch re- THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 217. built the city with great magnificence, and gave it the name Sebaste (the Greek for Augustus), which name it has retained until. the present day. In the middle of the city- — on the summit of the hill^ — he erected a splendid temple to Augustus, and otherwise adorned the city with costly edifices. This was the city that existed in the time of the apos- tles when "Philip went down to the city of Samaria and preached Christ unto them," on which occasion great numbers turned to the Lord through the manifestation of his glorious power, were baptized, and afterwards were filled with the Holy Ghost (Acts 8: 5-25). Here Simon Magus had for a long time "bewitched the people" with his sorcery, but his career of deceit and imposition ended with the minis- tration of Philip. We passed around to the southwest side of the hill and then as- cended from that direction. Ascending the terraces, we came at length to the Roman Gate, which was flanked by two round: Columns towers. Through this gate extended, along the south- ern part of the hill, a very remarkable colonnade. This street of columns led from the west to the east gate, and was fully one mile in length and 60 feet wide. Eighty- two of the columns, are still standing (though all have lost their capitals) ; they are about 16 feet in height. A greater number have fallen, and lie around broken in pieces. Some are monoliths, constructed of white marble and granite, though many are of common limestone. There is no doubt that these were constructed by Herod the Great as a part of his splendid scheme for adorning the city. But these columns are now entwined with vines, and stand or lie in their isolation in the midst of plowed fields. Other portions of sculptural remains of the ancient city lie scattered about on the hillsides and far down in the valley below. All we can find today of that splendid city which was built by Omri and Ahab, and beautified by Herod, is ruins, ruins. How true in fulfilment is the prediction of the ancient prophet : "I will make Samaria as a heap of the field, and as plantings of a vineyard: and I will pour down the stones thereof into the valley, and I will discover the foun- dations thereof" (Micah 1:6)! Turning to the left and ascending through the fields to the highest part of the hill, we came to the remains of the Temple of Augustus, which recent excavations have laid bare. A broad Augustus flight of steps, about eighty feet wide, leading up to the temple itself, is visible. (A well-preserved Roman altar and a colossal statue of Augustus were also discovered here.) We were then conducted farther east to view the site of what is ttrnied 218 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Ahab's Ivory Palace. It is evident that a magnificent building for- merly stood here, for the mosaic floors and marble columns (some of which are still standing) bear witness to this fact. We next proceeded to the Church of St. John, which dates from the period of the Crusaders. Jerome (fifth century) makes mention of a tradition that John the Baptist was buried in Samaria, and it is stated that he was beheaded here. We were not interested in the construction of this old church, so can not give a description of it; our interest lay in the Church of St. John Biiins of "Ivory Palace," Samaria traditions connected with it. In the court we looked through holes into three tomb-chambers. One is said to be the tomb of the Baptist, the others those of the prophets Elisha and Obadiah; but the latter must refer to the governor of the house of Ahab (1 Ki. 18:3). Descending from the hill of Samaria, we reentered our carriage. Shortly afterwards we began to ascend the steep hills to the north, from whence we obtained a fine view of Samaria in the jjills midst of the plain behind us, and before us an exten- sive view to the north. As we traversed in succession the hills and valleys of Samaria, the scenery was inspiring. We re- membered, also, that it was over these hills and through these valleys that Joseph came seeking his brethren when they conspired against THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 219 him and sold him to the Ishmaelites, by whom he was carried into Egyptian slavery. Our road led very near to Dothan where this treacherous act occurred, but we were unable to identify the place. Dothan was the scene of one of Elisha's extraordinary miracles be- fore mentioned (see 2 Ki. 6: 8-23). About noon we arrived at Jenin, which is the ancient Engannim, now containing about 2,000 inhabitants. We stopped in the out- skirts of the village and ate our lunch, which we had brought from the hotel at Nabulus. In the afternoon we entered the great Plain of Esdraelon, which stretches across Palestine from the Mediterranean to the Jordan. Its average width is from ten to twelve miles. Its soil is Esdraelon exceedingly fertile and is now to a great extent under cultivation. Its beautiful, level fields of waving grain reminded us of similar scenes in some parts of our own America, yet what a difference! On the left Mount Carmel is visible, jutting out into the Mediterranean, which, however, can not be seen; to the east, rise the mountains of Gilboa, and Mount Tabor, and Little Hermon: behind us, are the hills and valleys of Samaria; while just across the plain before us loom up the mountains of Galilee, through an opening in which Nazareth is visible. Every foot of this ground is rich in historic associations, for from time immemorial this has been the great battle-field of Eastern na- HSstoric (Ground tions. Close by, in these mountains of Gilboa on our right, was fought that ill-fated battle in which the nation of Israel fled before the victorious Philistines, leaving Saul and Jonathan dead (1 Sam. 31:1-7). Here also, in this southern border of the great plain, stood the city of Megiddo, where the men of Israel, led by Barak and the prophetess Deborah, dealt a crush- ing blow to the mighty hosts of Sisera, thus delivering Israel from their temporary servitude to the Canaanites. And here at Megiddo, Josiah received his death-wound, and Jeremiah and all of the men and women of song took up a lamentation for their beloved, but fallen, chief. Here toward the east, by the hill of Moreh, the few faithful followers of Gideon were assembled, while the mighty hosts of the Midianites were spread out in the valley like grasshoppers for multitude; and this was the scene of their miraculous and comolete overthrow (Judges 7). The apostle John beheld in apocalyptic vis- ion the final overthrow of all the powers of wickedness in the Plain of Armageddon — Megiddo (Rev. 16:16; 20:8, 9), which symbolic imagery is doubtless drawn from the historic facts just narrated. 220 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Nebuchadnezzar and Benhadad, Joshua and Saladin, Seti and Thothmes, Vespasian and Napoleon have all encamped with their warrior forces on this broad Plain of Esdraelon. But we were glad that for the present its rich soil was not soaked with the life-blood of contending forces, and that its river Kishon was no longer filled with the bodies of the fallen (Judg. 5:20, 21), but that the gentler arts of peace (such as they are) had supplanted the rough and cruel art of war. After leaving Jenin, we succeeded, though with great difficulty, in persuading our driver to take a longer road that leads around by the Jezreel village of Zerin, which is located at the foot of a spur of the Gilboa mountains, and which occupies the site of the city of Jezreel. At a fountain back of this town Saul and Jon- othan encamped and drank of its refreshing waters before entering the fatal battle. Here also the kings of Is- rael had a palace and often resided, a 1 - though Samaria was the capital of the kingdom. Much of the history of Ahab and of his wicked wife Jezebel centers around this place (1 Ki. 18:45). Here was the vineyard of Naboth which Ahab coveted in order to have room to enlarge his palace-grounds. When Naboth refused to sell it, Jezebel laid an infamous plot for his destruction, in order that her husband, Ahab, might seize the property. And here Elijah ut- tered the terrible denunciation against Ahab, whom he met in his vine- yard, saying, "In the place where dogs licked the blood of Naboth shall dogs lick thy blood, even thine. . . . And I will take away thy posterity. . . . and I will make thy house like the house of Jeroboam. . . . The dogs shall eat Jezebel by the wall of Jezreel" ( 1 Kings 21 ) . This prediction was fulfilled to the letter, as we see by reading concerning Ahab in 1 Ki. 22 : 38. And when the usurper Jehu slew the kings of Judah and Israel and rode triumphantly into Jezreel, the infamous Jezebel, who tried to disguise herself, was thrown out of a window by a wall, trodden under foot, and afterwards devoured by the dogs (2 Kings 9). Mount Ta'bor THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 221 Continuing our way, we passed Afouleh, a station on the Haifa branch of the Hedjaz railway, situated in the midst of this broad plain. To the east one can see the village of Shunem, where Elisha dwelt with the Shunamite woman and her husband, who were miracu- lously given a son (2 Kings 4) ; also Nain is visible, the place where Jesus raised the widow's son to life (lAike 7:11-16); also Endor, where Saul went to consult the witch just before the disastrous bat- tle of Gilboa (1 Samuel 28). Arriving at the base of the Galilean;: mountains, on the top of which Nazareth is located, we found the road very steep and stony,, hence were obliged to walk; but this experience was not unpleasant after our long day's drive. Shortly before dark we arrived in the city in which our Lord spent the greater part of his earthly life. NAZARETH Nazareth is now a prosperous town of about 15,000 inhabitants. In the spring of the year when it is surrounded by green hedges, fig- trees, and olive-trees it presents a charming appearance. In the time of Christ, however, it was probably a small, insignificant village, for it is not even mentioned by any writer before Christ's time, nor by Josephus. That it was not held in very high repute by the Jews is shown by the words of Nathaniel to Philip : "Can there any good thing come out of Nazareth?" (John 1:46). In fact, the entire province of Galilee was not highly esteemed, for many of its inhabi- tants, especially in the northern part, were of a mixed character — Jews, Egyptians, Arabians, and Phoenicians — and their dialect was provincial, rough, harsh, and uncouth. Christ's disciples, who were chosen from this section of the country, were easily distinguished by their peculiar dialect (Mark 14:70). According to Josephus, its people were of a seditious, turbulent character, and this gives a point to the accusation afterwards made against Paul of his being "a ring- leader of the sect of the Nazarenes" (Acts 24: 5). Thus the Judean Jews could not look with favor upon the religion proceeding from Galilee, hence the term "Nazarene" was applied as a term of re- proach. The words of the chief priests to Nicodemus convey their general attitude: "Search, and look: for out of Galilee ariseth no prophet" (John 7:52). To this small, insignificant village of Nazareth the angel Gabriel was sent from God to convey to the Virgin Mary the announcement of the coming of the Christ-child (Luke 1:26), while the decree of the Roman emperor took her and her husband into Judea at the proper 222 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 223 time to fulfil the prediction of the prophet that the ruler of Israel should proceed from Bethlehem (Mic. 5:2; Mat- Jmus ^°"** °^ *^^^ 2)- Afterwards, "they returned into Galilee, to their own city Nazareth. And the child grew and waxed strong in spirit, filled with wisdom: and the grace of God was upon him" (Luke 2:39, 40). Though he spent nearly thirty years in this village, we have no further details in the gospel history con- interior of Church of the Annunciation cerning his life here, aside from the one circumstance of his visit to Jerusalem with his parents at the age of twelve years; after which "he went down with them, and came to Nazareth," where he "in- creased in wisdom and stature, and in favor with God and man" (Luke 2:51, 52). In Matt. 13:55 Joseph is referred to as a car- penter ; while in Mark 6 : 3 Jesus himself is spoken of as "the car- penter, the son of Mary" ; from this we infer that the Christ-child assisted his father in his shop-work at the carpenter's trade. While in this city viewing the natural scenery, which has to a great extent remained unchanged (since Nazareth has never been destroyed in war), I thought, "How interesting it would be if we had access to facts concerning the early years of our Lord in this place!" Of course the foolish stories of this period told in certain apocryphal books are wholly unworthy even of mention. I might say, however. 224 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS that Luke 4: 16 appears to imply that Christ was accustomed to giv- ing assistance in the synagogue service in Nazareth. From the top of a hill back of the town one of the most extensive views in Palestine can be obtained. To the north can be seen the Leb- anon ranges, with the three peaks of Mount Her- An Extensive a. • u n ii, 4- ii, j. „. mon towering above all the rest ; on the west ap- pears Mount Carmel, the Mediterranean, and the bay and city of Akka ; toward the east Gilead and Mount Tabor are seen; while on the south stretches out the broad Plain of Esdraelon, with the hills and mountains of Samaria beyond. Next morning, April 24, we started out to visit the few places of importance to be seen in this sacred town* First we entered the Church of the Annunciation, which in its present form Church of the i . j i . j. • tx • /-n Annunciation ^'^^ completed nearly two centuries ago. It is o9 feet long and 48 feet wide, and has a nave and two aisles. On each side are two altars. The church also has several paintings. The High Altar is dedicated to the angel Gabriel. There is a crypt below the High Altar, and into this we descended by a flight of mar- ble steps leading to the Chapel of the Angels, containing on each side an altar, the one on the right being dedicated to St. Joachim, and the one on the left to the angel Gabriel. Between these two altars a wide entrance leads into the next apartment, the Chapel of the An- nunciation, which contains the Altar of the Annunciation with the Latin inscription, "Here the Word was made flesh." On the left a round, upright column marks the place where Gabriel stood; while just a little to the north a piece of red granite column hangs from the ceiling directly over the spot where Mary received the angel's message. This is claimed to be the exact site of the house of the Virgin. We then went to the so-called workshop of Joseph, which is a sort of grotto or cave, and which is now (like other sacred places in Pal- estine) bound up in a church. We next visited the synagogue in which Christ is said to have" preached. It is a very ancient structure The Svnaffoeue whose history can be traced as far back as the year 570. It is not as large as we had supposed, but considering the small size of the town anciently it was doubtless large enough to accommodate all of the worshipers. As I have al- ways been deeply impressed with the message which Christ delivered here in Nazareth after returning from his baptism, I opened my Bible, and read: "And he came to Nazareth, where he had been brought up : and, as his custom was, he went into the synagogue on THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 225 the Sabbath day, and stood up for to read. And there was delivered unto him the book of the prophet Esaias. And when he had opened the book, he found the place where it was written. The Spirit of the Lord is upon me, because he hath anointed me to preach the gospel to the poor; he hath sent me to heal the broken-hearted, to preach deliverance to the captives, and recovering of sight to the blind, to set at liberty them that are bruised, to preach the acceptable year of the Lord. And he closed the book, rnd he gave it again to the minister, and sat down. And the eyes of all them that were in the synagogue were fastened on him. And h e began t o .say unto them, This day is this Scripture ful- filled in your ears. And all bare hira witness, and wonder- ed at the gracious words which proceeded out of his mouth Joseph's son" (Luke 4: 16-22). Ancient Syuag-ogrue at Nazareth And they said, Is not this Mary's Well THE DRIVE TO TIBERIUS After lunch, we entered our carriage for the afternoon drive to Tiberius. At the north end of Nazareth we stopped at Mary's Well, or Fountain, which is a beautiful spring of water. The Greek pilgrims bathe their heads and eyes with the holy (?) water. Many women were seen here filling their large jars Avith water, which they bore away on their heads. As this is the only spring that the town contains, it is very probable that Mary and the little child Jesus were often among the number who came to this place for water. From the fountain our road ascended in a wide sweep to the sum- mit of the hill toward the north, from which we obtained a fine view of the whole of Nazareth. As we were about to take a farewell look at the quiet town behind us, little Gerald began to cry very hard, and for a long time could not be comforted. The thought that this was where Jesus lived when a boy seemed to make a deeper impression upon 226 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS S e S U THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 227 Cana of Galilee his mind than anything else that we had seen, and therefore he did not like to leave. Finally we assured him that he could obtain a glimpse of the city on the morrow, as we passed by train through the Plain of Esdraelon; then he felt better. Looking northward, we could see down into a valley below, into which we now began to descend. After a few minutes we passed Gath-hepher, the birthplace of the prophet Jonah (2 Ki. 14:25), whose tomb is here shown. In about three-fourths of an hour we entered the village of Kefr- Kenna, which is pleasantly located, being surrounded with many or- chards of olive- and other fruit-trees. This is identi- fied as the ancient Cana, where Christ performed his first miracle by converting water into wine at the marriage-feast (John 2). On entering, we passed a nice spring, from which, doubt- less, the water used on the occasion of the miracle was tak- en. Leaving our car- riage, we visited the Latin Chapel, which occupies the site of a church of the Cru- saders, which in turn had succeeded a still more ancient church. This was discovered recently while excavations were in progress for the purpose of enlarging the present church. In front of the altar of the earlier church a Hebrew inscription was found which names a cer- tain Joseph as its founder; and this is supposed to refer to Count Joseph of Tiberius, a converted Jew who in the time of Constantine the Great built several churches. This ancient inscription interested us, though we were unable to read it. This church is said to occupy the site where the water was turned into wine. From the Latin Chapel we went to the Greek Church to see one of the waterpots which is said to have been used on the occasion of the mir- acle. It was hewn out of stone and appeared to be very Wateroot ancient. I was somewhat surprised at its size, but on investigation I find that the "two or three firkins," which was the capacity of the vessels mentioned in John 2, is equal to about Ancient 'Water-Pot at Cana 228 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 229 twenty-five gallons, and this agrees well with the size of the jar which we beheld. The record itself conveys the idea that the jars were too large to handle after the manner of ordinary waterpots, for they "were set there," and at Jesus' direction "they filled them up to the brim," I noticed a small, round hole at the bottom, and this reminded me of the words "draw out now, and bear unto the governor of the feast." I succeeded in getting a very good kodak view of this jar. We then went to the alleged site of the house of Nathaniel, where a small Fran- ciscan chapel now stands. According to John 21 : 2, Nathaniel resided Besieg'ed toy ■youngr Venders at Cana at Cana. This may in some degree account for his skepticism con- cerning Jesus, when he said, "Can there any good thing come out of Nazareth.?" (John 1: 46). In this village we were pestered by children, who crowded around us thickly, offering various little articles for sale. Whichever way I might turn, it was all the same — about all I could hear would be shouts of "hajji," "hajji." They thronged us from the time that we arrived at the spring near the entrance until our carriage was well under way after leaving the other end of the town. But we noticed one thing that drew forth remarks from our party, and that was the absence of begging. The familiar cry of "bakshish," "bakshish," "which had greeted our ears at every place since we landed in Pales- 230 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS tine, was strangely lacking both in Nazareth and Cana, and an effort to sell us something was substituted. We could not help but appre- ciate the difference, though we were greatly troubled by them. We attributed this change to the influence of Christianity creating more thrift and business energy in these northern towns which are not so much under the influence of Mohammedanism. From Kefr-Kenna our route led northeast through a broad, well- cultivated valley, which, however, was not specially interesting for some time. After a while we reached Lubiyeh. Here Beatitudes ^^ 1799, a fierce battle was fought by the French and Turks. A little farther along we crossed a low saddle, to the north of which rises Karn Hattin, a mountain easily distinguished On the Mount of Beatitudes by its having two peaks, or horns, and also by its being isolated on a broad plateau. On this plain the power of the Crusaders in Pal- estine was completely broken when their forces went down to defeat before Saladin, July 3, 1187; when " all was staked in the presence of the holiest scenes of Christianity and all miserably lost." This hill is traditionally identified as the Mount of Beatitudes, where Jesus preached the notable Sermon on the Mount. As we rode along its base, we began to talk about stopping at the nearest place and making an ascent. By this time our Mohammedan driver had learned that we were bent on visiting every place of im- portance that we came near. He was anxious to get to Tiberius, and so, suspicioning that we might want to stop here, he began to ply THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 231 his whip vigorously, and soon we were going at a very rapid rate. We succeeded, however, in getting the carriage stopped and, against the driver's protest, started for the summit of the moun- ^^^ ^ tain. We found the distance much greater than we had anticipated, and we shall not soon forget that climb through the rank weeds, thorns, and thistles up the rough, stony slope of the hill. Poor little Gerald! He was too heavy to be car- ried a great deal, and yet it was very difficult for him to keep up with the rest. Occasionally he would stop for a moment, and say with a sigh, "Oh, I wish Jesus would give me wings !" or "Why does he not let me be an angel.'"' After a half hour's hard work we were rewarded with success ; and standing on the top of that historic mountain, we obtained a magnificent view of the surrounding country. West- Panoramic View ^^^^ ^^^ t^^ country we had just traversed. Turn- ing to the east, we caught our first sight of the deep- blue waters of the lovely Sea of Galilee, about 1,700 feet below us. Yonder, around the northern and northwestern shores formerly stood those crowded and busy cities which were the scenes of so many of our Lord's marvelous works. A little farther north, high up on a mountain, we could see the prosperous town Safed — "a city that is set on a hill," which "can not be hid," I shall never forget that hour. Every spot upon which our eyes rested seemed sacred. And with genuine feelings of devotion, we began to repeat the words that here fell from the lips of him who spoke as never man spake : Blessed are the poor in spirit: for their 's is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are they that mourn: for they shall be comforted. Blessed are the meek: for they shall inherit the earth. Blessed are they which do hunger and thirst after right- eousness: for they shall be filled. Blessed are the merciful: for they shall obtain mercy. Blessed are the pure in heart: for they shall see God. Blessed are the peacemakers: for they shall be called the cliildren of God. Blessed are^ they which are persecuted for righteousness ' sake: for their 's is the kingdom of heaven (Matt. 5:3-9). Returning to our carriage, we continued on our way, and soon began to descend in long windings from the high plateau that we had crossed to the level of the Sea of Galilee, which at this point again became visible and lay spread out before us in indescribable beauty — 232 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS CQ THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 233 the most sacred body of water on the globe. There was inspiration in the sight. We began to sing, but with a greater sense of reality than that described by the poet: Oft in silent meditation On its shores we long to wander, Back to Galilee we go, Sacred spot of all that land, With our fancy's brightest vision Where of old our loving Savior View the scenes of long ago. Left his footprints in the sand. Sweet and precious unto me Are the thoughts of Galilee; He who walked the stormy wave Still extends his hand to save. About six o'clock in the evening we arrived in Tiberius. Our first concern was a lodging-place. About the time we left Nazareth more than two hundred German tourists were due there from Haifa. As they were coming right on through to Tiberius the same afternoon, they had telegraphed ahead for hotel accommodations and secured every available place. After some delay and considerable difficulty a Latin priest kindly ojffered to provide for us as best he could in his own private house, and for this we were indeed grateful. He seemed like a very nice man, and Brother Ouzounian had some interesting conviersations with him in French. TIBERIUS Tiberius is now a town of about 8,600 inhabitants. Formerly it was the capital of Galilee, which name was extended to the entire province of Palestine lying north of the Plain of Jezreel. The coun- try was famed for its fertility and rich pastures, and the most beau- tiful part lay here just to the west of the Galilee lake. The city was founded by Herod Antipas and named in honor of the emperor Tiberius Caesar. It is mentioned only once in the New Testament (John 6:28), though the lake itself is sometimes referred to as the Sea of Tiberius. We have no account of Christ's visiting this place. Later, during the Jewish war, when Josephus was made commander-in-chief of the Jewish forces in Galilee, he fortified Ti- berius ; but the inhabitants voluntarily surrendered to Vespasian. Therefore the city was spared, and the Jews were afterwards allowed to live there. After Jerusalem was taken and destroyed, Tiberius be- came the chief city of the nation. Here flourished the school of the Talmudists, and here St. Jerome was taught Hebrew by a Jewish rabbi. Though the town is now prosperous and important, there is nothing specially attractive about it. It is known throughout Syria for its multitude of fleas, and this feature was specially objectionable 234 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS to some of the members of our party. The Arabs say that the king of the fleas has his court here. Next morning, April 25, we started out for a sail on Jesus' sea; but as the breeze was very gentle, it proved to be more rowing than) sailing. Our boat was propelled by four men, who "Jesus' Sea" plied the oars with great dexterity. The lake is thir- teen miles long and about seven miles across at the widest place. The surface lies aboyit 680 feet below the Mediter- ranean. The river Jordan enters at the north end, passes through, and leaves at the southern end, on its course to the Dead Sea. Sweet memories of this bright day when we coursed over the sacred waters to the site of the ancient Capernaum will linger with us. From the lowly life of common fishermen on this lake, Christ called several of his followers to the sacred office of apostleship, to institute a religious movement which was destined to revolutionize history and make itself felt in every part of the world. Here he spent much of his time with them. Time and again they entered such boats as these and crossed over its waters. Here it was that the Master lay asleep in the back part of the ship while his disciples were battling for life with the vio- lent waves caused by one of the sudden squalls to which the sea is subject; and here "he arose and rebuked the wind and the sea, and there was a great calm." Here also when the disciples were storm- tossed and frightened in the darkness of the night, the Savior came walking on the waves of the sea, and Peter made his unsuccessful at- tempt to walk on the water to Jesus. Amid the pleasant scenes of the present, with memories of the sacred associations of the past crowd- ing in upon us, we expressed inspiration of our hearts in joyous song: "Each cooing dove and sighing bough "And when I read the thrilling lore That make the eve so blest to me Of him who walked upon the sea, Has something far diviner now — I long, oh, how I long once more It bears me back to Galilee. To follow him in Galilee! "O Galilee, sweet Galilee, Where Jesus loved so much to be! O Galilee, blue Galilee, Come sing thy song again to me!" As it required about one and one-half hours for us to cross to our first stopping-place, we had an abundance of time for conversation about the many things which have conspired to render this sheet of water sacred forever. The greater part of Christ's personal ministry was spent in the numerous villages which crowded its shores, or in the hills and mountains which look down upon it. Considering the THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 235 mixed character of the inhabitants of this district and the contempt with which they were held by the Jews in Judea, who but Christ would have thought of going to this place to initiate his great work and to choose those disciples whose general ministry was to begin at Jerusalem ? How en j oyable this day ! The sun shone down upon us in his beauty, revealing the natural scenery on the banks of the lake, which S nic Beautv ^^ springtime, exhibits a luxuriant vegetation sug- gestive of an earthly paradise. The Galilean moun- tains, which rose above us in the distance, form a splendid background to the natural scene, and add beauty and richness to its grandeur; while to the north, beyond and above all, tower the snow-capped sum- mits of the mighty Hermon, so often extolled by the writers of the Sacred Narrative. And the eyes of our Lord often rested upon the very places where we were now fixing our eager gaze — happy thought! And here close at hand are to be seen the ancient-looking boats of the fishermen coursing about on the waters that still wake angrily in the sudden tempests, or sleep in sullen calms. Once more our hearts' emotions found expression in song: "I stood by the side of that murmuring sea, Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee, While the voice of the tempest was saying to me, 'Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee.' And I thought of the Savior who, years long ago. Came to tell the glad tidings, his love to bestow; How he stood by the side of that murmuring sea, Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee. "I sailed in a ship on that billowy sea. Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee, While the voice of the tempest was saying to me, 'Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee.' Then I thought of the hearts that once tossed on the wave When they cried in their peril to Him who could save; How the Master spoke peace to that billowy sea. Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee." As we approached the shore at the north end of the lake, memo- ries of another kind caused our feelings to be mingled with a strain of sadness, for here lay those prosperous cities against which Christ uttered his severe maledictions because of their rejection of his mes- sage — "Woe unto thee, Chorazin ! woe unto thee, Bethsaida ! for if the mighty works, which were done in you, had been done in Tyre and Sidon they would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes. But I say unto you, It shall be more tolerable for Tyre and Sidon at the day of judgment, than for you. And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, shall be brought down to hell: for if the mighty 236 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS works, which have been done in thee, had been done in Sodom, iij would have remained until this day" (Matt, 11:21-23). So per- fectly have these predictions of Christ been fulfilled that for centuries these places have been in such complete ruin and desolation that even their sites have been made the subject of much dispute. Our objective point was Tell Hum, at the north end. Recent ex- cavations by the German Oriental Society have succeeded in making the identity of this place with Capernaum as good as certain, so that Bulns of a Synag'og'ue at Capernaum when we stepped ashore we felt assured that we were really on the site of that proud wicked city, which was "brought down to hell." The Capernaum excavations referred to have brought to light the in- teresting remains of a large synagogue, which we vis- ited. This is probably the one mentioned in Luke 7 : 5, where, on the occasion of the sickness of a certain centurion's servant, the elders of the Jews came and besought Jesus to come at once and heal him;i affirming that the centurion who desired this favor was worthy, "For he loveth our nation, and he hath built us a synagogue." The struc- ture is seventy-nine feet long and fifty-nine wide, built of fine white limestone, and consists of a central chamber surrounded on the north, south, and west by a colonnade. The columns were monolithic shafts ten feet in length, surmounted by fine Corinthian capitals. The archi- THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 23: trave and frieze were richly ornamented with foliage and geometrical figures. These splendid works now lie scattered around, a silent testi- mony to the former beauty and splendor of this place. I desired to obtain a picture of this synagogue, but the Franciscans have the over- sight, and one of their number absolutely refused to allow any pho- tograph of the ruins taken. Brother Ouzounian talked to him very nicely in French, after which he relented and permitted us to secure the desired view. Farther up the mountain slope to the north, above Capernaum, perhaps two miles distant, lie the ruins of Kerazeh, probably the ancient Chorazin. Many walls of houses are still preserved, also some columns which probably sup- ported the roofs ; and in the center of the town may be seen the ruins of a syna- gogue. We did not have sufficient time to climb up to the exact site, so omitted it from our intinerary. Of course, all of these places were within easy range of our vision. Our course across the lake in the morning had been in a direct line from Tiberius to Capernaum, so on our return journey we fol- lowed the long course around the shore on the northwest and west sides. We soon came to Khan Minyah where there are some ruina which show that the place was once of considerable importance. We also saw a good fountain here. Our boatmen declared that this was the site of the Bethsaida of the New Testament, and numerous attempts have been made by certain scholars to con- firm this identity; while others say that the true Bethsaida, the birthplace of Peter, John, and Philip, was at the north end where the upper Jordan flows into the sea. As the identity of this place was not settled, it did not interest us very much; so we did not go ashore, but continued our course to the extreme western edge of the lake, and came to Me j del, which is identified with certainty with Mag- dala, the birthplace of Mary Magdalene. Just back of this place Betlisaida 238 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS the cliffs arise to the height of more than 1,100 feet and are full of caverns, some of which we could see from our boat. One of these is large and contains an almost inaccessible labyrinth of passages. These fastnesses were once the haunts of robbers. Herod the Great be- sieged them here and could not succeed in destroying them until he hit upon the plan of lowering soldiers in cages from the cliffs above to the mouths of the caverns. Hermits afterwards occupied the place. ■».. " -j^ /^ "<< I ,• -,<^-> "^M ->c ,>-».ui.,..aefi > ahin^gai 3iS iOiit-r *»»j»:. . ;;- . ,mK^^%:- ^""''"T^ ' . a , '.' . • .•■'■ . ■ ' ''--'■ , .', -^ ^MHI^^IIHh hh^^hh^i Magdala Haifa Arriving at Magdala we decided to go ashore. The bank here is not precipitous and our boat could not come entirely to land; there- fore two of the boatmen carried us ashore one at a time. It did not take us long to decide to leave again, for I am sure that this is the most miserable village that I ever saw. The few inhabitants were a degenerate, wretched, and dangerous -look- ing class, therefore we started back for our boat. The boatmen took Gerald first, carried him out, placed him up on the top of the boat quickly, and let go, starting back to the shore for another one of us. Just at this time the boat gave a sudden pitch (probably caused by the motion of one of the boatmen who was in it), and Gerald lost his balance and fell overboard. The boatmen quickly effected his rescue, but he was thoroughly frightened. We tried to comfort him THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 239 by saying that he had had a greater privilege than any of us ; for he took a bath in the Jordan, one in the Dead Sea, and now he went in the Sea of Galilee. We pressed a coat into service for temporary clothing, and removed his wet clothing and laid them in the sun to dry on the top of the awning which covered us. We arrived at Tiberius in time for lunch. In the afternoon we returned to the sea, where we entered a motor- boat which conveyed us, with other passengers, to the southern end of the lake, to Samakh, a station on the railway. Just as we ar- rived there, I discovered that one of our suitcases was missing; and we were greatly disappointed, for there was not sufficient time to re- turn and get it before train- time. We were not certain whether i it had been left at our stopping-place or had been seized along the way before the boat left Tiberius. Brother Ouzounian was the only one of our number who was qualified by language and otherwise, to trace such a thing as a lost suitcase, therefore it fell to his lot to remain behind to make search; so we sorrowfully said farewell, and made our journey to Haifa, on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea. We were not specially interested in the city of Haifa, though it is a prosperous town of about 20,000 inhabitants; our interest lay in Moiint Carmel Mount Carmel, at the base of which Haifa is situated. This is one of the most noted mountains in Palestine, and its beauty has been much extolled even by Bible writers ; Isaiah speaks of the "excellency of Carmel and Sharon ( Isa. 35:2) ," while Solomon employs Carmel as a representation of that which is "fair" and "pleasant" (S. of Sol. 7:5,6). That which renders Carmel forever sacred as the "mount of God" is the fact that here was the scene of the greatest of Elijah's mira- cles — one of the most marvelous of sacred history. The •pjie Place of a> • . . Great Miracle circumstances will be recalled by the reader. At this time Ahab was the reigning king of Israel, but was to a great extent under the malign influence of his wicked wife Jezebel. She was the daughter of Ethbaal, king of Tyre, and through her in- fluence the Phoenician worship, especially that of the sun-god Baal, was introduced in Israel. As a punishment for this offense, God sub- jected the nation to more than three years of terrible famine. Dur- ing this time the prophet Elijah, who had pronounced this judgment, remained in hiding from the wrath of the king, but afterwards ap- peared and challenged the worshipers of Baal to a public test on Mount Carmel in order to determine which was the true and living God. Here in the sight of all Israel, who had assembled to witness 240 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS the test, these idolatrous priests constructed their altar, placed on it the sacrifice, and then called upon Baal to vindicate himself by send- ing fire miraculously and consuming the offering : but all in vain. After their complete failure, the prophet called the people to himself, built an altar, placed the sacrifice and covered it with water, and then prayed Jehovah to show that he was God in Israel and that Elijah was his true prophet ; whereupon the fire fell and burned up the sacri- fice and licked up the water in the trenches. When the people saw this, they fell upon their faces, and cried, "The Lord, he is God; the Lord, he is God." Then at the command of Eli- jah the false priests of Baal were taken down to the brook Kishon and there were slain (1 Ki. 17, 18). After this mar- velous manifesta- tion of the mighty power of God, Eli- jah went up to the top of Carmel and there prayed seven times for the Lord to send rain upon the earth; upon which a rising cloud became to him a token of the desired answer, and he sent word to Ahab to return to his house quickly lest the rain should stop him (1 Ki. 18:42-46). Next morning we secured a carriage and began the ascent up the slope of Mount Carmel. We had often related the story of Elijah to Gerald, therefore he was very much interested in tliis jjjj^g^j^ trip. At a point about 558 feet above the sea we came to the "Monastery of Elijah," which we entered. This is a large building occupied by about twenty monks. In the Gerald's "Sacrifice" on Mount Carmel THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 241 church we saw an old wood carving representing Elijah; and under the High Altar is a grotto, or cave, in which the prophet is said to have dwelt. That prophets and other religious persons lived here, probably in caves, in very ancient times is well known, and Elijah and Elisha often resorted thither (compare 1 Ki. 18:19, 42; 2 Ki. 2:25; 4:25 with 1 Ki. 18:4, 13). Leaving the Monastery, we still continued to ascend. While on the way, I happened to look at the side pocket in Gerald's coat and noticed that it was bulging out. I asked him what Gerald's . . o o "Sacrifice" ^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ pocket, but he made no reply; where- upon I made an examination and found a box of matches, which he had secured in our room at the hotel. When asked why he had brought them, he at first made no reply ; but when pressed, he said that he had brought them so that he could make a sacrifice when he got up on top of the hill. I suppose he was afraid his faith would fail, therefore thought he would provide the fire himself. When we gained the summit, he gathered together some stones and made an altar, upon which he piled some dry weeds, and then attempted to set them afire. The wind was blowing so strong that he could not get the blaze started before the wind would extinguish his match; and the little fellow was about discouraged as he struck his last match, but, lo ! the fire took hold and blazed up, and then he was very happy. Mount Carmel presents a beautiful appearance. It forms a great promontory stretching out into the sea, thus forming the Bay of Akka on the north. On account of the heavy dew Mount Carmel ^^^ mount is covered with a rich green verdure the whole year round — a very unusual phenomenon in Pal- estine. The summit is covered with oaks, pines, and wild almond- trees, and farther down, where it is brought under cultivation, olive- and other fruit-trees abound and vegetation of every kind flourishes. At the foot of the mountain on the south runs the brook Kishon, by the side of which Elijah slew Baal's prophets. Many small rivulets flow down from the mountain, furnishing the slopes with an abund- ance of water, then empty their contents into this brook. From this point the view is magnificent: toward the south the view extends to Caesarea; on the west lies the great sea; toward the north are the blue ranges of the Lebanon and the seacoast as far as Tyre, where Hiram reigned — the king with whom David formed a league and from whom Solomon obtained great assistance in the construction of the temple. 242 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS On our return we visited the School of the Prophets below the Monastery of Elijah. Here we were shown a large Prophets chamber, partly a natural cavern and partly cut out of the rock, which we were informed was anciently used for a school of the prophets. Around the sides is a stone projec- tion, or shelf, which formed a seat for the pupils. It might be interesting for me to digress long enough to describe Convent on Mount Gaxmel the schools of the prophets which existed during the Israelitish period, and to state the purpose of their establishment. From f *the ^ °° ^^^ references to the subject given in the Scriptures Prophets we learn that they were institutions where younger prophets were placed under the leadership and special instruction of older and experienced men of this prophetic office. The first school of this kind of which we have any knowledge was estab- lished by Samuel (1 Sam. 10: 8 with 19, 20, 21). Other schools were afterwards located at different places, as Gilgal and Bethel (2 Ki. 2:3; 4: 38), and the students lived together in close fellowship (2 Ki. 6:1). The pupils were known as "sons of the prophets," while their leaders were regarded as their spiritual parents, hence were addressed as "Father" (2 Ki. 2: 12; 6: 21). THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 243 The purpose which these institutions served in the kingdom of Israel must not be overlooked. In the reign of Rehoboam, when the Their Purpose national separation occurred, the clerical tribe of Levi remained with Judah, where they might maintain their God-appointed service at Jerusalem; and thus the nation of Israel was left without any recognized spiritual head or divine leadership^ The wicked Jeroboam attempted to provide for the religion of his subjects by instituting a corrupt form of worship in Jehovah under the symbol of the golden calves which he stationed at Dan and Bethel, and which was continued until the overthrow of the nation. But God was greatly displeased with this. Therefore in order that the knowl- edge and worship of the true God might not be entirely lost to the nation these special institutions of the prophets were established and divinely confirmed by a succession of mighty wonders and signs (as in the case of Elijah and Elisha) which was not equaled by all the prophets of Judah. It appears that the first-fruits and tithes which by the Mosaic law were assigned to the Levites were in the nation of Israel devoted to these prophetic institutions (2 Ki. 4:42, with con- text). But of course the Lord did not confine his prophetic work to these established institutions, for Amos clearly describes himself as an exception to this rule — that he was not trained in a school of the prophets, but was a herdsman when the Lord called him directly to utter his predictions against Israel (Amos 7: 14, 15). But the fact that these schools of the prophets were located at the important centers of corrupt or idolatrous worship leads me to believe that they were not simply educational institutions, but were a sort of missionary stations. The "fathers" traveled about and vis- ited the different places. These facts may throw some light on the saying of Christ, "Call no man your father upon the earth : . . . for one is your Master, even Christ; and all ye are brethren" (Matt. 23:8, 9). "In time past" God spake unto the fathers by the proph- ets, but 'in these last days he hath spoken unto us by his Son' (Heb.. 1:1,2). From this interesting excursion to Mount Carmel we returned to> our hotel. At six o'clock in the evening I went to the railway sta- tion to meet Brother Ouzounian, who had turned back to Tiberius, and recovered the missing suitcase, then followed on the next trainv He reported he had found opportunity to do some very good mis- sionary work at Tiberius , and that he therefore felt that the Lord permitted the oversight of the suitcase in order to accomplish this result. '244 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS FROM HAIFA TO DAMASCUS Next morning our company separated. Brother Ouzounian re- mained at Haifa, waiting for the next boat to Egypt; and Brother Pambukdjian also remained in order to take a boat directly to Beirut; while we took the train for Damascus, The line skirts the north edge of Mount Carmel, passing through the Plain of the Kishon, and enters the Plain of Esdraelon, which it traverses in a southeasterly direction. From the train we obtained our last view of Nazareth far up on the Galilean hills, passed close to "Little Hermon" on our left and Jez- reel on the right, and soon after entered the plain of the Jordan. Thirty-six miles from Haifa we arrived at Beisan, the Beth-shean of the Old Testament (Judg. 1:27). From this place the railway line turns northward and ascends the west side of the valley of the Jor- dan, then finally crosses that river on a bridge. This is the lowest point reached by the railway, being 815 feet below the level of the sea. A little farther along we came once more to the southern end of the Sea of Galilee, to the little village of Samakh, from which we de- parted two days before. From this point the train began to enter the mountains of the country east of the Jordan. We fixed our gaze upon the waters of Leaving Galilee ^^^ Galilean Sea until the mountains shut off our view, and then we turned our attention to the beautiful valley of the Yarmuk, which we were ascending. This river is the largest tributary of the Jordan; in fact, its volume is nearly the same. It descends from the Hauran, and its deep channel is cut through great rocks of limestone. This we crossed and recrossed on great viaducts, and the passage of this gorge with its rushing tor- rents of water far below presents a picturesque scene. This section of the country was formerly included in the posses- sions of the half-tribe of Manasseh. It will be remembered that the The Hauran tribes of Reuben and Gad and the half-tribe of Ma- nasseh desired to settle east of the Dead Sea and the Jordan, and were therefore permitted to take possession of this vast scope of country which had already been conquered by the Israelites on their route to Canaan. In Ezek. 47:16-18 the Jordan River is made the boundary between Damascus, Hauran, and Gilead on the one hand, and the land of Israel on the other. But the region known to- day as the Hauran lies a little farther east, which we entered near Zeizun, a station eighty-four miles from Haifa. When the Israelities overcame Og, king of Bashan, they secured all of this country, which THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 245 then contained threescore cities that were "fenced with high walls, gates, and bars" (Deut. 3: 1-5). It was noted for its rich pasturage, and is frequently alluded to in this respect by the Bible writers. But the country itself was air Ma V Ruins most unknown to the modern world until during the last half-century ; and even today it has not been completely explored. It is very rich and fertile, but thinly popu- lated. It abounds with remains of ruined cities and towns, which tes- tify to its former prosperity. Most of the present inhabitants live in the best preserved of these ancient houses. The cupboards, seats, and even the candlesticks, are of stone; and the cisterns hewn in the rock, in which drinking-water is preserved throughout the whole year, also date from an early period. A vast number of ancient inscrip- tions in Greek, Latin, Arabic, and other characters have been found in these parts, but many of them have not yet been read. About noon we arrived at the station Dera, where we stopped for half an hour. This town occupies the site of the ancient Edrei, which _, j^ . was the scene of the overthrow by the Israelites of Og, king of Bashan, already referred to. There are numerous ruins here now. At this place we j oined the main line of the Hedjaz Railway, which runs from Damascus to Medina. It was constructed for the purpose of assisting Moslems in their pilgrimage to Mecca. Unbelievers are not permitted to use the line for travel- ing farther south than El-Maan. Our course was northward from Dera to Damascus. As we were many hours on the train, we had plenty of time for observation and reflection. We were agreeably surprised at the nat- ural richness and the attractive appearance of this broad territory' of the Hauran which we were traversing; for we had never formed the conception of such a fine tract of land lying over here Inhabitants ^^ ^^^ from the sea. But we were just as deeply impressed (but unfavorably) with the character of the present in- habitants, chiefly Bedouins. Reeking in filth, scantily attired, tattooed on faces and hands with fanciful or grotesque figures, they certainly present a hideous appearance. At every stopping-place, we saw the soldiers of the government stationed for the purpose, we supposed, of protecting the trains and preserving order. Many times we expressed our thankfulness that we were on the train, and not left in the hands of such people. Now, this observation was not simply the exag- gerated "first-impression" of a foreigner, for we had spent sufficient time in the Orient to become pretty well accustomed to the different 246 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS peoples, their appearance, costumes, etc. But these people presented a wild and fierce appearance that stood out in striking contrast with those nearer the sea, who are brought more in contact Belision with the influences of Western civilization. And these things directed our thoughts to the influences of re- ligion itself. For twelve centuries Mohammedanism has had perfect and undisputed sway over the region of the Hauran, and what hus it done for the betterment of the people? Absolutely nothing, so far as we can see. With the exception of the railroad itself, everything! is probably the same as it was in the seventh century — the morals and character of the people no better. Some of our Western people who are inclined to look with leniency upon the religion of the false prophet (as though it were a stepping- stone to the religion of Christ) should visit the interior of these Mos- lem countries and view its results in its unmixed state. No ; Moham- medanism has originated since the time of Christ, in Mohammedanism opposition to Christ, and has ever since waged the fiercest warfare with the disciples of Christ; hence is a step from, not toward, Christianity. Missionaries generally regard the Moslems as the hardest people in the world to reach with the gos- pel — not even excepting the Jews ; for the Jews have the Old Testa- ment Scripture with their prophecies of Christ, and to these we can appeal, while the Mohammedans have the Koran, which to them, is the suj)reme law, and this distinctly names the Christ and denies his divine Sonship. But I do not wonder why Mohammedanism is powerless to elevate its people, for as a religion it is constructed mainly in line with fallen human nature — not in opposition to it — and thus tolerates under re- ligious sanction the very things that degrade and disgrace any nation. The fierce and barbarous standards of seventh-century Arabia are re- flected in the character, example, and religion of the prophet; and therefore every country brought under its sway has withered as though struck by the most ruinous blight. Mohammed sanctioned the fearful slave-raids that tore apart and forever crushed the homes, the happiness, and the natural instincts of helpless victims. These raids Mohammedans have continued, as in Africa, down to our own day. Mohammed gave unrestrained rein to the vilest of human passions : he placed the sword in the hands of his fierce followers, and gave them license to all the plunder and booty that could be secured through war and assassination ; he permitted them to do whatever they pleased with any "infidel" woman that they met, and he himself set the example by THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 247 taking to his tent the weeping widow of a Jew whom they had slain in cold blood the same day. Against this dark background I place in striking contrast Chris- tianity — the character of its Founder, and of his chosen apostles ; its Christianity true nature, and its effects in the world. Our Savior was a perfect model, free from all of the sins of hu- manity, which he vigorously condemned. His apostles were men of the holiest character who went forth to make war, but with weapons "not carnal." In its nature Christianity is opposed to every wrong act, impulse, or principle, and stands for all that is good; therefore its effects have been beneficial. I am aware that some of our carping critics blame Christianity for the superstition and darkness of the Middle Ages, but this I steadfastly deny: it took place, not because of Christianity, but in spite of it. The great forces of heathenism within the empire itself, and the mighty deluge of barbarism from without, which finally wrecked and overturned the empire, had their influence upon the Christianity of the day and adulterated it. But when, later, the open Bible was placed in the hands of the people and a higher type of Christianity arose, straightway the rapid elevation of society be- gan, until today we can point triumphantly to the results and say, "Wherever the highest and purest form of Christianity is, there you see the greatest moral, social, and spiritual development." No person who is not blinded by bitter prejudice can fail to see these facts which stand out in such striking contrast. Give us pure apostolic Chris- tianity — fill the earth with it — and this old world of ours would be converted into Eden, "the garden of the Lord." During the afternoon our route continued in a northerly direc- tion. On the left the lofty, snow-crowned summits of Mount Hermon were always visible. Late in the afternoon we crossed AiTiviiig sit Damascus *^^ broad depression of the Wadi el-Ajam, through which flows the river that is identified with the an- cient Pharpar (2 Ki. 5: 12). As we approached the city of Damas- cus from the south, we thought of the time when Saul was traveling along the caravan route in this direction, bent on the destruction of the Nazarenes, when Christ miraculously appeared to him and changed the whole course of his life (Acts 9). DAMASCUS Next morning we started out to view the place. Damascus is said to be the oldest city in the world. Of its origin nothing is known, but in the days of Abraham it was referred to as a place of some impor-l 248 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Visiting Traditional Sites tance (Gen. 14:15; 15:2). It is mentioned repeatedly in connection with Israelitish history. Its present population is about 300,000; in its characteristics it is the most Oriental city in existence, and its ba- zaars are the finest in the East. But we were chiefly interested in its connection with Christianity. The doctrine of Christ must have been preached here soon after Pentecost, for in A. D. 36 Saul undertook a special trip here (this was on the occasion of his conversion) for the express purpose of destroying the Christians (Acts 9). We went to "the street which is called Straight," along which we traveled until we came to the "house of Judas" where, in answer to the prayer of the disciple Ananias, the blinded eyes of Saul were opened, and he was filled with the Holy Ghost (Acts 9: 10-18). We next visited, in another part of the city, the house of Ananias, which is now convert- ed into a small church with a crypt. We then went to the site of the house of Naaman the Syrian (2 Kings 5), which was recently de- stroyed by fire. I am not able to judge ac- curately as to the character of these traditions. The houses pointed out did not, it seems to me, bear evidences of any such antiquity ; though it is possible that they may occu- py the place of for- mer structures. Pass- ing around the outside of the city wall, we were shown the window above the wall where, it is affirmed, Paul was let down in a basket and escaped from the wrath of the Damascenes (2 Cor. 11:32, 33). Our guide then conducted us to the Mohammedan cemetery, where we were shown the graves of two of Mohammed's wives, and of his daugh- ter Fatima. On Thursday women come to mourn at the graves. In the afternoon our guide conducted us to Es-Salehiyeh, a sub- urb of Damascus lying to the northwest, and which is situated high upon a hillside. To the west of this village a broad platform was erected for the emperor William II, and from this position we obtained a fine view of Damascus and its environs. A more splendid location for a city could not be found. Situated in a broad plain near the House of Ananias, Bamascus THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 249 foot of the Anti-Lebanon range, watered by numerous streams, and surrounded by teeming vegetation, the view is indeed enchanting. These extensive gardens with delicious fruits and Situation of flowers, which present such a contrast with the sterile Damascus regions of the Arabian Peninsula, have been greatly extolled by the Arabian poets as the earthly symbol of paradise; for to the Mohammedans paradise is pictured as an orchard traversed by "streams of flowing water," where delicious fruits abound. The river Barada, the ancient Abana (2 Ki. 5:12), Interior of the Grand XIoscLue, Damascus flows through the city, and we passed along its banks many times. It is a most beautiful stream; the cool, clear water flows very swiftly, sparkling and flashing in the sunlight. We thought we could under- stand full well the argument of Naaman the leper that 'Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, were better than all the waters of Israel.' Or, as Dr. Mansford has remarked, "Naaman may be ex- cused for his national prejudice in favor of his own rivers, which, by their constant and bountiful supply, render the vicinity of Da- mascus one of the most beautiful in the world." The Omaiyade Mosque is generally regarded as a place of spe- cial importance. We came to the door, but we did not enter, as we were not disposed to pay the entrance fee required. We had visited the celebrated Mosque of Omar in Jerusalem, and I expected soon 250 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS to visit the most celebrated Mosque of all, St. Sophia, in Constanti- nople; so we did not think that this one could present any special feature of importance to us. The site was first oc- Mosaue cupied by a Roman temple which the emperor Theo- dosius I (379-395) converted into a Christian church and named it "the Church of St. John," because it contained a cas- ket with "the head of the Baptist." After the Mohammedan con- quest it was converted into a mosque, which has suffered certain losses by fire and otherwise. The building has never been restored to its original magnificence; but some parts of the ancient church have been preserved, as the entrance archway on the west side and the re- mains of a gateway on the south side, A dome-structure surmount- ed by a golden crescent is said to stand above the head of John the Baptist. But we wondered how John could be in so many places ! We saw where he was buried in Samaria ; we also saw on Mount Ebal a Mohammedan weli that contains his skull; and this mosque contains his head! It reminds me somewhat of St. Anne's wristbone, which the Catholics have exhibited in so many places at the same time. I had heard of a certain inscription still existing on a preserved portion of the ancient church, and this I desired to see. We passed around to the south side of the mosque. The south Inscription ^^^^ °^ *^^ mosque is largely hidden by a parallel street which is lined with carpenter shops on each side. But in one of these shops, high up, was an opening through which we could catch a glimpse of the mosque wall. Our guide se- cured a long ladder, and we climbed through this opening, and from the roof above could see the entire length of the mosque wall rising above these shops. Here the upper remains of a beautiful Roman gate are seen, and on the upper beam of the gate is a well-preserved Greek inscription which dates from the time of Theodosius, and which was overlooked by the Mohammedans when the church was converted into a mosque. The inscription is as follows: "Thy king- dom, O Christ, is an everlasting kingdom, and thy dominion endureth throughout all generations." The quotation is from Psa. 145 : 13, the words "O Christ" being an interpolation. This inscription pos- sessed more than ordinary interest to me. When it was carved in this stone, the gospel had triumphed over heathenism, insomuch tVat its temple was converted into a church; now, after surviving the vicis- situdes of ages, it still exists with its silent testimony that Christ is yet "King of kings and Lord of lords" — as a prophecy that he will yet subdue all his enemies before him. THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 251 Next morning, April 29, we took train for Baalbeck. After leaving Damascus, the railway ascends the Anti-Lebanon mountains, follow- ing the river Barada (Abana) for a long distance. Dama&cus ^ pure, clear water of the river, winding about in sharp curves and leaping from rock to rock in its rapid descent through the well-wooded valley, presented a pictur- esque scene. About eighteen miles from Damascus we stopped at Suk Wady Barada, a village surrounded by orchards. This town occupies the site of the ancient Abila Lysaniae, and the district around was called Abilene. Luke mentions a certain Lysanius as tetrarch of Abilene in the fifteenth year of Tiberius Caesar (Luke 3:1). The name "Abila" is popularly derived from Abel, and on a hill to the west of the town is pointed out the traditional spot where Cain slew his brother Habil (Abel). A little above the town we saw from the train an ancient road, from thirteen to sixteen feet wide, hewn in the solid rock at a point about one hundred feet above the river. Latin inscriptions on the rock state that the road was constructed under the emperors Mar- cus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, which would be during the latter part of the second century. Soon we turned to the northeast and ascended a valley between the two chains of the Anti Libanus to Sarghaya, the highest point, then descended in a northwesterly direction through a valley covered with oaks and wild rose-bushes, the mountains rising very steep on each side. Near Yahfufeh we turned toward the west and passed through a narrow ravine out into the broad valley between the Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon ranges, formerly known as Coele- Syria, where we stopped at a station called Rayak, and changed trains for Baalbeck. From Rayak our route led northeast through the beautiful, well- cultivated, but thinly peopled. Plain of Coele-Syria, formerly one of the most prosperous districts in all Syria. On the west margin of the plain the village of Kerak Nuh was pointed out, where the tomb of the prophet Noah (?) is shown. It measures one hundred feet in length! About fourteen miles from Rayak we saw on the right a modern weli built of ancient materials, of which eight beautiful gran- ite columns were brought from the ruins of Baalbeck. In the distance could be seen the stone-quarries of Baalbeck, and the great columns of the Temple of Jupiter. 252 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS BAALBECK Baalbeck was formerly the most glorious city of Syria, being adorned with palaces, temples, and monuments. We were interested in it chiefly because it was the center of the religious worship of Baal, to which reference is ofttimes made in the Bible. Of the origin of the town nothing is known, but it is referred to in ancient Assyrian and Egyptian inscriptions by the name "Balbik," which proves that it was devoted to the worship of Baal. Here, also, heathenism made one of General View of Baalbeck Btiins its greatest efforts against the rising tide of Christianity. The Chris- tian religion was making itself felt all over the East ; and to counter- act its influence, the Roman emperors sought here to establish pagan- ism on such a magnificent scale that it would be sure to carry the day. Antoninus Pius began the erection of an elegant temple to Jupiter, and his successors carried the work on with such a degree of splen- dor that it became one of the wonders of the world. Christianity tri- umphed, nevertheless, and Theodosius the Great (379-395) destroyed the chief part of the Great Temple, which had already been dam- aged by an earthquake, and erected over its altar a Christian church. Mercury and Venus were also worshiped here during the pagan times, but the worship of Venus was suppressed by Constantine the Great. THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 253 From the station we proceeded at once to the acropolis of Baal- beck, which is surrounded by gardens and covered by the remains of The Acropolis ^^° temples — the Great Temple (of Jupiter) and the Temple of Bacchus. I will not attempt to give an adequate description of these splendid and immense ruins, but will give only a brief sketch. The German Excavations of 1900-1904 have brought to light a multitude of interesting details. Many portions of the structure in danger of falling were restored. The temples themselves were erected on massive substructions. The entrance was on the east side where a very broad flight of steps led up to the propylasum, but these are now destroyed Temple ^^^ ^ narrow modern staircase occupies the place. This we ascended to the propylaeum, which stands on a broad platform nineteen feet above the surrounding orchards, and is supported by a large vault. This vestibule is about 198 feet long and about 40 feet wide. At each end of it there is a tower. In front it had twelve columns, the bases of which still remain. Three of these bear Latin inscriptions stating that the temple was built by Anton- inus Pius and Caracalla and was dedicated to the "Great Gods" of Heliopolis (the Greek for Baalbeck). The towers have a nicely exe- cuted cornice running around them at the same height as the portico. Doors led from this vestibule into the chamber in the interior of the tower. A large doorway in the center, on each side of which there was a small door, led from this vestibule into the forecourt, which was hex- agonal in shape and 195 feet deep. Its mosaic floors are partly pre- served. This was surrounded by colonnades, and on the four sides that were not employed for entrance and exit there were lateral cham- bers, each preceded by four columns. Three of these chambers have, been practically ruined by the Arabs, who converted them into for- tifications. In the west side of this forecourt, opposite the entrance, a three- fold portal led into another very large apartment, called the Court of the Altar. This court measures 441 feet from east to west, and is 369 feet wide. It was surrounded on three sides (south, north, and east) by colonnades of polished granite columns. In the open space many ruins now lie scattered around, including bases of these col- umns, Corinthian capitals, and one monolithic shaft of Egyptian granite twenty-five feet in length. On each side of this court there are five small chambers, two of which are semicircular. The semicircu- lar ones were elaborately decorated and contained large niches fori 254 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS statues; the square ones were not so elaborately arranged. Near the middle of this court stood the colossal altar, one-half of which, with the steps by which the priests ascended at the time of sacrifice, has been brought to light by the recent excavations. The other half was probably destroyed when the church of Theodosius was erected here. At the west end of this court a flight of steps led up to the Great T«nple itself. It was surrounded by 54 columns of immense size, 19 on each side and 10 at each end (the corner ones being counted twice). Of these, only 6 on the south side remain standing, and they are vis- ible for a long distance from Baalbeck. They measure 7^ feet in diameter smd. more than 60 feet in height, above which are Corinthian capitals connected by an architrave which is in three sections. Above these is a sculptured frieze, then a tooth-molding, and still higher a cornice — in all, 17 feet high. It seemed marvelous to me how these immense blocks of stone out of which these columns were carved could be elevated to their present position. But the massiveness of the masonry is the chief wonder of this place. The sculptural work, while beautiful, is not executed with the same degree of elegance found in the remains of the Parthenon at Athens ; but the Parthenon itself could be placed in one corner of the apartment forming the Court of the Altar of this Great Temple. And when I viewed the foundation upon which this structure was placed, I saw that it agreed well with the proportions of the entire building, for these enormous blocks of stone were the largest that I had ever seen, many of them measuring from 20 to 40 feet in length. Leaving the Great Temple, we went southwest from the six col- umns to the Temple of Bacchus, which stands near it but quite un- connected with it. The latter temple is of the same B^hus° ^S^ *^ *^^ other, but is well preserved, and is prob- ably the most beautiful ancient building in Syria. The wall of the temple itself was surrounded on the outside by rows of columns placed 10 feet from the wall and 10 feet apart. There were 16 of these on each side, and 8 at the ends. These columns, including the Corinthian capitals at the top, are 52 1-2 feet high and are con- nected by an architrave, with a handsome double frieze that extended clear around the building. This architrave was connected with the Cella (or temple itself) by huge slabs of stone forming a ceiling, and this celling was most elaborately executed with hexagons, triangles, etc., with central ornaments, while the intervening places were filled in with the busts of emperors and gods, relieved by foliage. On the south side only four of these columns stand connected, while only the THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 255 bases of the other remain. On the west side three columns are up- right and connected, and only fragments of the others are left. Huge masses of the engraved ceiling have fallen down. But the north side is almost entirely preserved; and the ceiling consists of thirteen sec- tions, some of which are damaged, but they show some fine busts. We ascended the flight of stairs at the east end and came first to the row of eight unfluted columns just referred to, which extended across the end. Back of this, at the distance of ten feet, stood an-* other row of six fluted columns, flanked by two of the smooth side-col- umns, already referred to. This formed a sort of portico; ten feet wide, extending across the east end. Back of this was another open space, the real vesti- bule of the temple, bounded at each end by the extending side walls of the temple, at the end of which was placed another fluted column on each side; while the back was formed by the front wall of the temple proper. Crossing the por- tico, we came to the portal of the temple, where we became aware of the real beauty of the place. The door- posts are lavishly decorated with sculptural work showing vines, gar- lands, and certain fruits. We noticed particularly soine grapes which appear so natural that one could almost be tempted to reach for them. Here also a youthful god is represented suckled by a nymph, while above are satyrs, etc. On each side of the entrance portal are piers containing spiral staircases. Some of us ascended the north one to the top of the temple. Within the temple itself works of great beauty greet the eye at every turn. The structure is 87 feet long and 73 feet wide. Each . side wall is divided into sections by six fluted semi- columns with very elaborate capitals. The wall-faces between these columns have two elaborately decorated niches above each other, the lower one having a semicircular pediment, and the upper a pointed one. The Adyton, or secret chamber from which Temple of Bacchus 256 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS oracles were spoken, lay at the west end of thrs room, but at some distance above its floor. A staircase extending clear across the room led up to a platform, or landing, on which were two half-columns. Between these a second flight of steps led up to the Adyton proper. The wall on each side is adorned with reliefs representing Dionysos with maenads. The base for the statue of the god can still be seen. We felt abundantly repaid for the time spent in visiting these ruined temples, the last great effort of dying paganism. The extensive subterranean vaults were intended to raise the level of the temple, and some of these were used as shops. We passed Interior of Temple of Bacchus through one of these long vaulted galleries extending along the south side. The Great Temple stood upon an elevated terrace 44 feet above the level of the plain and about 23 above the Court of the Altar. For the construction of this terrace large substructions Substructions were necessary ; therefore on three sides of the temple foundation, and at a distance of about 33 feet from it, an enclosing wall was built to form the outside of the terrace wall, the intervening space being filled up with large blocks of stone. We passed around on the outside of this enclosing wall to view the blocks of stone of which it is composed. In the lowest course the stones were THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 257 not so large; but above this was a course extending on all three sides which consist of stones each about 31 feet long, 13 feet high, and 10 feet thick. Above this on the west side rises another Blocks "^^ ^^^ consisting of three gigantic blocks, two of which are about 64 feet long (each), and the other 63; and they are 13 feet high and 10 feet thick: so that the three blocks make a wall 191 feet long and 13 feet high. These enormous blocks are the largest masses of stone ever handled by man, and the greatest marvel of all is that they have been placed on the top of a substruc- ture already 23 feet high. The quarries from which they were taken are situated about one-half mile distant, down hill, and engineers are still puzzled to know how they were ever brought here and placed in their present position. Leaving the acropolis, we passed eastward into the modern vil- lage, where we stopped to view the ancient Temple of Venus, a small, well-preserved, circular structure. On account of emp e o much water around the outside at this time we did Venus ^ . . . , not enter, but are informed that the interior is dec- orated in a similar manner to the buildings on the acropolis. The construction of the outside is the most remarkable part of this build- ing. It is surrounded by beautiful Corinthian monolithic columns, standing at some distance from the templ-e itself. But the architrave which connects these columns is not convex, like the circular wall would suggest, but concave, and the cornice is lavishly enriched. Thus the columns stand out with great prominence, which style of arch- itecture gives the structure a rich and elegant appearance. Along the upper part of the wall of the temple runs a frieze ornamented with wreathes of foliage. As it was now nearly dark, we went to our hotel. Next morning, April 30, we drove to the ancient quarries, which are situated about one-half mile to the southwest of Baalbeck, and from which the blocks of stone previously mentioned O ^iries were obtained. Here we saw another gigantic block hewn out, measuring 70 feet long, 14 feet high, and 13 feet wide. For some unexplained reason it was never removed. How such a huge mass (12,740 cubic feet; probably weighing more than 1,000 tons) could be moved we do not know; still it does not seem probable that they would have chiseled it out if they had had no means of using it, especially in view of their experience in handling the large blocks already mentioned. From the quarries we drove to the railway station and began the 258 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS last stage of pur journey. From Rayak we turned westward, cross- ing the broad valley of Coele-Syria, which we had been traversing lengthwise, and began to ascend the Lebanon moun- Lebanon tains. Our progress was very slow, but the scenerj' Scenery was delightful, presenting the variety of views com- mon to mountain ranges. When we attained the sum- mit and could see, far below us, the teeming vegetation of the Lel-a- non, the many pretty villages on its western slopes, the large, thriv- ing city of Beirut be- yond, and the great Mediterranean back of all, it seemed to us that we had now reached a fitting cli- max of all our sight- seeing — our minds being deeply impress- ed by the works of the Greatest of all artists and archi- tects. We descend- ed without special in- cident until we near- ed Beirut, when our engineer had the misfortune to fall from his en- gine. When the train came to a standstill, I went back, with many others, to the place where he was lying. He was alive, but unconscious. He was placed on the train and conveyed to the station at Beirut, where we saw him removed in a carriage. The extent of his injuries I could not ascertain. In a couple of hours our carriage arrived in the village of Schweifat, our home, thus ending our interesting and enjoyable trip through the Holy Land. Oigrautic Block of Stone at Baalbeck TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES FROM BEIRUT TO CONSTANTINOPLE During the early part of the year 1913 we received a number of pressing invitations to come with Bro. G. K. Ouzounian and hold meet- ings in various points in Cyprus, Asia Minor, Turkey, Roumania, and other places. Accordingly, in the first part of August Brother Ouzounian came from Egypt to spend a few days with us in Mount Leb- anon, Syria, prior to starting out on this journey. Wife decided to remain in Syria, in order that she and Sister Hittle might look after the interests of the work there during my absence. So on the 9th of August Brother Ouzounian and I bade the Syrian saints farewell and embarked at Beirut on the steamer Tefewkieh. Early the next morning our ship passed close by the west side of the island of Cyprus. Cyprus was a place of considerable importance in the past, and it also stands associated with gospel history ; these thoughts impressed themselves on our minds as we stood gazing upon its rocky coast. But as we visited the place itself a little later in the year, I will not enter into a description of it now. The day passed without special incident. About half past nine on the morning of August 11, our steamer anchored in the harbor at Rhodes, the chief town of the island of that Rhodes name off the southwest coast of Asia Minor, and sepa- rated from the mainland by a channel ten miles wide. Rhodes is the most easterly island in the Mgean Sea, and is very pic- turesque. It is traversed from north to south by an elevated moun- tain range, and the lower hills are covered with pine woods. The climate is dehghtful. The soil being fertile, the island produces a large amount of grain, grapes,, figs, pomegranates and oranges. Rhodes was a celebrated island in antiquity and was one of the earliest centers of civilization in the Mediterranean. The Rhodians were a maritime people, and for several centuries the ImBortance island was an important seat of literature, art, and commerce. The city of Rhodes was founded about 408 B. C, and was one of the most splendid of ancient Greek cities. It was built and embellished by one of the foremost architects of an- cient times, and possessed magnificent public buildings. 261 262 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS The Colossus of Rhodes, which was reckoned among the Seven Wonders of the ancient world, was an immense statue constructed of bronze, 115 feet high, and stood at the entrance to the harbor. About fifty-six years after its erection, however, it was thrown down by an earthquake. In the fourteenth century the island was taken by the Knights of Saint John, a mili- tary, monastic order of the Latin Church, and for about two hundred years it constituted, under them, a formidable bulwark of Christen- dom against the Turks, who were in possession of the eastern and southeastern shores of the Mediterranean. Finally, however, it was captured by the Turks, and still remains a part of the Ottoman Empire. Our steamer did not remain long at Rhodes, but turned and sailed in a westerly direction past some small and unimportant islands, un- til, rounding Cape Krio at the western extremity of a long, narrow peninsula jutting out from the main- land, we turned and sailed northeast into the gulf of Cos, through the channel between this peninsula and the long, narrow island of Cos on the northwest. Cos is one of the richest islands in this part of the ^gean Sea, and produces a large amount of fruit. The island is noted as the birthplace of Apelles, the greatest of Greek painters, and of Hippocrates, the father of medical science. When we reached the northeast end of the island of Cos, we turned toward the west. On our right, toward the north, lay an- other peninsula, named Budrum. This was the site oi Halicarnassus, m Caria, lamous as the birthplace of Herodotus, "the Father of History," and of Dionysus, the anti- quary, and as the site of the Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the world. The city was long a stronghold of Persian power, and the town made such a gallant defense against Alexander that he failed to reduce the citadel. The Mausoleum was a work of extraordinary magnificence in de- sign and execution. It was 140 feet high and 411 feet in circum- The Mausoleum ference, surmounted by a pyramid supporting a char- iot with four horses. The whole structure was built of beautiful Parian marble. Queen Artemisia, its builder, fought for Xerxes at Salamis, and was the heroine of the exploit which induced the king to exclaim, "My men are become women, and my women men." The Mausoleum remained intact until medieval times, when its ruin was effected by the Knights of St. John, who used its marble in making mortar for their castle of St. Peter. One extant account TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 263 relates how they broke into the tomb and "admired and destroyed" its colored sculptures. Many of these slabs can still be seen bedded in the walls of the castle. What a shame that such a magnificent work of art — one with which the name of Praxitiles stands connected — should thus go down in ruin! The chief remaining sculptures were secured for the British Museum a little over a half century ago, and we saw them while in London. Having passed the island of Cos, our course was now northwest, and we passed in sight of a number of islands, some of considerable Isle of Patmos ®^^^" -^^^^g the number on our left was Kalymno, Lero, Lipsos, and finally Patmos. Patmos is a small island, its greatest length being about twelve miles and its greatest breadth six miles. It is an irregular mass of barren rock with little vegegation anywhere. The chief occupation of the preseent inhabi- tants (Greeks) is fishing. Under the Roman Empire, Patmos was used as a place for the de- portation of criminals, where they were employed in the quarries. Its greatest fame, however, lies in the fact that it was the scene of the apostle John's captivity, and the place where he received the visions of the Revelation. This seemed like a sacred place to me, and I had long had a desire to see it; in fact, we wanted to visit the place, but as there was no regular steamship line touching at the island, we found that it would be a difficult matter to go, and therefore had to content ourselves with merely a view of it. The most conspicuous object on the island is the Monastery of Saint John, on the summit of a high hill. The library is said to possess some manuscripts of great value, including Codex N., a quarto manuscript of the gospels, of the sixth century. A cave now converted into a chapel is said to be the place where John received the visions of the Apocalypse. A little further along we passed, on the right, the large Island of Samos, which lies off the coast near Ephesus. Night now closed in upon us, so we retired to our cabin. When I came out on deck next morning I found that our course was now southeast, and upon inquiry learned that we were entering Gulf of Smyrna *^^ ^^^^ ^-^ Smyrna. This gulf is thirty-four miles long, and one of the grandest in the ^gean Sea. The southern shore is mountainous and highly picturesque; a number of fine peaks being specially interesting. As we approached the eastern end of the gulf we were met by a small government boat, which led the way into the harbor of Smyrna. Prior to this time, during the Turkish-Italian War, and also during the Balkan War, the harbor 264 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS was heavily mined, and the mines had not yet been removed; there-* fore the necessity of this precaution. Shortly before this time two or three boats, venturing into the harbor alone, had been sunk by these mines. On the surface of the water floated a number of casks, which of course were anchored, and we followed in a zig-zag course the little boat, as it went in and out among these barrels. After passing a strong modern fort on the right, the whole range of mountains which enclose the gulf came into view, a number of high peaks in the dis- tance, and on the shore Mount Pagus, against which nestles the city of Smyrna, spread- ing along the sea, and crowned with the ruins of an ancient castle. Soon we came to anchor in the har- bor. We expected to spend a few days at Smyrna, and also make a side trip to Ephesus, but the cap- tain informed us that the city was under quarantine o n ac- count of the prevalence of cholera in the town, and that we could not go ashore except on condition that we stay there. We soon decided Smyrna ^^ remain on the ship and continue our journey to Constantinople. But as it was several hours before the boat left, we had a very good opportunity to observe the city, which, being built on the hillside facing the gulf, was clearly seen. The old city of Smyrna was founded about the eleventh century B. C. According to tradition. Homer was born on the banks of a small stream that flows near by. Smyrna fell under the power of Alexander, who ordered its reconstruction on the site of the pres- ent city. The new city prospered and soon became famous for its schools of science and medicine, and for its magnificent buildings and great wealth. Christianity was planted here at an early date, and here was lo- Polycarp cated one of the seven churchs of Asia, to which the Book of Revelation was particularly addressed. This church was favored beyond the other churches of the Apocalypse, Smyrna TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 265 and Smyrna is the only one of these cities that has retained a large portion of its original magnificence. Here Polycarp lived and la- bored and, in the Stadium on the hillside, suffered martyrdom in A. D. 155, during the persecution under Marcus Aurelius. Polycarp was a disciple of John, and according to a fragment as- cribed to a writer named Pionius, he was ordained bishop, or elder, of this city by that apostle. When brought before the Roman pro- consul at Smyrna, and required to renounce his faith in Christ, Poly- carp refused, whereupon he was condemned to the flames. By the aid of a field-glass I obtained a very good view of the Stadium where his martyrdom occurred and where his reputed tomb is still shown. Night closed in upon us before we again entered the^gean Sea, and the next morning we were passing through the Dardanelles. This narrow passage was also heavily mined, and we crept Mohammedan along very slowly. About this time we became con- siderably interested in the conversation of a liberal Mohammedan, a lawyer from Adana, in Asia Minor. The most of his conversation was in Turkish, but Brother Ouzounian gave me the substance of his remarks. This Mohammedan was an educated man, and had some very clear ideas concerning the cause of the present con- dition of Turkey, in comparison with certain other parts of the world. He also proposed what he considered to be a remedy for the situation, and this he divided into three sections, as follows : "1. Our women must become like Western women — in social re- spects practically equal with men. But they can not be elevated as they are, therefore we must send 5,000 or 10,000 of our Moslem women to America and England for their education (no matter if they do become Christian), and then bring them back to our country to assist in the elevation of the others. 2. Church and State must be separate ; no religious officers must have any position in the government. 3. For every scientific and educational position which we have to fill, we must bring capable men from Europe and America and follow them abso- lutely. Without these reforms the Turkish nation, and Mohamme- danism as a religion, cannot remain in the world — this is certain. If they hang me from the yard-arm I will say this. The Turks will send us to Gehenna for this talk, but it will happen just this way." He also gave a number of interesting personal experiences, and stated that he was only one of several thousand educated men who are bent on reformation in Turkey. On August 13 we arrived in Constantinople. Our objective point, however, was Bucharest, Roumania, but on our arrival here we found 266 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS that we would not be able to enter Roumania without passports, and as Brother Ouzounian did not have one we were de- Constantinople ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^y^- '^^^^g » Turkish subject he set about it to secure the proper papers, and after con- siderable difficulty succeeded. We spent much of our time here prof- itably in visiting the chief points of interest of this historic place. CONSTANTINOPLE Constantinople, the capital of the Turkish Empire, is situated on a promontory jutting into the northern end of the Sea of Marmora, having the Golden Horn, an inlet of the latter, on the Situation north, and the Bosphorus on the east. The city proper is thus surrounded by water on all sides except the west, where there is an ancient and lofty double wall, four miles iii length, stretching across the promontory. On the opposite side of the Golden Horn are Galata, Pera, and other suburbs. On the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus is the city of Scutari. The natural situation of Constantinople possesses extraordinary beauty and magnificence. The history of Constantinople begins with Byzantium, which was founded on this site about 667 B. C. by Greek colonists. Chalcedbn Historic Sketch ^^^ already been built on the opposite side of the Bos- phorus. When these colonists consulted the oracle of Apollo for information as to where Byzantium should be built, they received the response, "Opposite the city of the blind." Judging that no one but blind men would build at Chalcedon when such a lovely promontory was inviting them on the opposite side, they selected this as the site of their city. The early history of Byzantium furnishes nothing of particular interest to the reader, except an incident that gave rise to the use of the crescent moon as an emblem. In 339 B. C. the Origin of Athenians, persuaded by Demosthenes, sent help to Emblem Byzantium to aid in repelling the attack of Philip of Macedon. During this siege a surprise party was be- trayed by the barking of dogs and the light of a falling meteor in the northern sky. Because of the failure of this attack "the citizens raised a statue to Hecate and Torch-bearer, and in her honor struck coins bearing her emblem, the crescent moon, which Byzantium has be- queathed to Constantinople, and Islam borrowed all over the world." The city surrendered to Constantine in 323 A. D., and was by New Rome ^™ rebuilt and enlarged and made the capital of the Roman Empire, under the name of Constantinople, also called New Rome. TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 267 268 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS As the first Christian emperors reigned here, Constantinople soon acquired quite a degree of importance in ecclesiastical affairs. A nuni- General Councils ^^^ ®^ General Councils were held here, including what is known as the Second, Fifth, Sixth, the Trullan, and the Eighth. The Second was convoked by Theodosius the Great in 381, for the purpose of upholding the Nicene Creed. The Fifth was held by Justinian in 553, in regard to Nestorianism. The Sixth, 680- 681, condemned the doctrines of the Monothelites and declared their leaders heretics. The Trullan (so called because held in the Trullan palace) was rejected by the Latin Church because it gave permission of marriage to priests, but was received by the Greek Church. The Eighth rejected the Iconoclasts. This council was not recognized by the Greek Church. This city has long been an object of strife among surrounding nations. Greeks, Persians, Goths, Huns, Arabs, Turks, Franks, Cru- saders, and Bulgarians have all encamped around it _,* ° ^. , or attacked it, but on account of its natural advan- Constautinople ' In 1453 tages it has seldom been captured. The Saracens threw themselves against its walls repeatedly, but were as often repulsed. Later the Turks made various attempts to take it until 1453, when, under Mohammed II they succeeded. The Greek emperor, the last of the Constantines, lost his life attempting to defend the city. The conqueror entered by the gate of St. Romanus, near which the emperor lay dead, and rode his horse direct to the* church of St. Sophia, which he entered, and there knelt and thanked God for his victory. Before the Ottoman conquest Constantinople was the treasure-house of Greek learning. Its overthrow drove the Eastern scholars into Western Europe, where their presence and learning had a powerful effect in bringing about the Revival of Let- ters. The present population of Constantinople is about 900,000, of whom about one-half are Turkish Mohammedans, the remainder be- ing Greek Orthodox, Armenians, etc. The first place we visited was the Mosque of St. Sophia, the most important ecclesiastical building in Constantinople, and the finest ex- ample of Byzantine art. The original church of St. St Sophia Sophia was founded by Constantine the Great, but was burned; in 532 the second church also was burned. Justinian then undertook the building of a new church, one which would be fireproof, no wood being used except for the doors. In carrying out this enterprise ten thousand workmen were engaged, un- TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 209 02 270 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS der the command of one hundred master builders. The principal ma- terial for the walls was brick, but the interior was lined with costly marbles. To add to the splendor of this building, the ancient tem- ples of the gods at Heliopolis and Ephesus, Delos and Baalbeck, Athens and Cyzicus were plundered of their columns. At the dedication which took place Dec. 26, 537 A. D., Justinian exclaimed, "I have surpassed thee, O Solomon." But this building covered ten times the area cov ered by the Jewish temple. Removing our shoes (as is required of all persons entering mosques), we entered a hall at the west end of the mosque, from which five doors Interior of St. SopMa Interior of MoBq.ue of -St. Sophia lead into another large hall 205 feet long and 30 wide, extending nearly across the end. Here the walls are covered with marble panels and the vault with mosaics. From this apartment nine doors lead into the mosque itself. Over the central door, called the Royal Gate, is a long brass plate on which are engraved a dove, and a throne supporting an open book. On the pages of the book are the words, written in Greek, "The Lord said: I am the door of the sheep, if any man enter in, he shall go in and go out and shall find pasture." "The nave is practically a double square, 250 feet east and west, by 110 feet north and south, with aisles and galleries on either side, TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 271 with a gallery on the west end over the eso-narthex [the entrance hall just mentioned], and roofed by a dome and two semi-domes. The aisles increase the breadth of the building to 235 feet." The dome is 108 feet in diameter, and rises to the height of 180 feet from the floor. It is "built with forty ribs, with sunk panels, and a window at the foot of each panel, so that the dome appears as if it were suspended from above. The whole weight of the dome and semi-domes rests on eight great piers. On either side of the nave are four verde antique monoliths, quarried in Thessaly and presented to the emperor Justin- ian by the Prefect Constantine of Ephesus. In each of the four cor- ners are two porphyry columns, eight in all, quarried in Egypt, which once formed part of the Temple of the Sun at Baalbeck or Pal- myra; they were carried to Rome by Aurelian to adorn a temple there; and having come into possession of a patrician lady Marcia, they were presented by her to Justinian for the salvation of her soul. The vaulted roofs of the aisles are supported independently of the nave columns by twenty-four smaller columns of green marble. The walls and the piers are covered with marble panels of different colors, while traces of mosaics are to be seen in the arches and vaults under the galleries, and in the arch and semi-dome of the apse. Upstairs, six columns on either side, and six columns on each exedra, all of verde antique, separate the nave from the galleries, the roof of which is supported by twenty-four white marble pillars." Suspended on the wall on the right side of the apse is a large disk bearing the name Allah; another disk on the left side bears the name Mohammed; while other disks bear the names of Ali, Omar, Osman, Abu-bekr, and others, companions and successors of Mohammed the prophet. In the center of the dome is a verse of the Koran, "God is the Light of heaven and earth." When the city fell in 1453, the Janissaries hastened to St. Sophia to plunder the church of the gold and silver reputed to be concealed in the catacombs. They broke open the doors, seized Plundered ^^^ gold and silver ornaments, and divided among themselves the men and women who had fled to the sacred edifice for shelter. As some one has said, "The saddest pos-^ sible scenes of human agony were enacted under the grand cupola, amid the resplendent marble columns, and on the beautiful pavement of the magnificent church." The Conqueror converted the church into a mosque. The mosaic work has been defaced or covered over, and the crosses have been mutilated. In different parts of the building we could see the cross dimly showing through the covering which these 272 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS despisers of Christianity had thrown over it — suggestive of the thought that Jesus can not be entirely hidden even by his enemies ; prophetic of that time when all the covering shall be torn off and Jesus appear in all his glory and beauty. We next visited the church of St. Irene, which is situated in the grounds of the old Seraglio, near St. Sophia. It was also built by Constantine, was destroyed by fire, with St. Sophia, in St. Irene ^^^' ^^^ ^^^ restored by Justinian on the original plan. This was the meeting-place of the Second Gen- eral Council, 381 A. D. This church has not been used as a mosque, and is now used as a museum of ancient arms. Here we saw an im- EiLtrance to the Imperial Palace mense collection of the most wicked-looking devices for torturing and killing men — a visible commentary on the lives of that race of people whose principal claim to fame rests on their ability to plunder and destroy. Just north of the church of St. Irene is an open space, which we crossed as we approached the entrance to the old Seraglio grounds, Orta Eapou ^^^ ^^ stopped at the gate called Orta Kapou, as this gate can not be passed without an order from the palace. This is a double gate, forming a little room on the right, where, in old times, those who had lost the favor of the Sultan were TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 273 executed as they left the palace. And in the wall a little south of this point is the Imperial Gate, outside of which the heads of decapitated offenders used to be exposed. IMPERIAL OTTOMAN MUSEUM In this place we saw a great many objects of interest, a few of which I will refer to without attempting to describe them in system- atic order. In the department of Greco-Roman sculpture was a stat- uette of the Good Shepherd, dating from the third century; also two fragments of a sculptured column containing the most ancient repre- sentation known in the east of the baptism of Jesus Christ. The Siloam Inscription, to which reference was made in the de- scription of Jerusalem, and which is cut on a block of limestone, was discovered in Jerusalem in 1880 in the underground Inscription channel between the Virgin's Spring and the Pool of Siloam. This inscription dates from the time of King Hezekiah, seventh century B. C, and is the oldest known Hebrew in- scription of the purest Biblical Hebrew. It is in six lines, and records the history of the digging of that underground passage, and states that the workmen began working at both ends: "and that after that on the day of excavating the excavators had struck pick against pick, one against the other, the waters flowed from the Spring to the Pool for a distance of 1,200 cubits." The Jerusalem Stela was discovered in 1871 in a wall near the Mosque of Omar, in Jerusalem. Its Greek inscription reads as fol- lows: "No stranger may enter within the enclosure The JcruscilGm . . < g^glg^ around the temple, and its precincts ; whosoever is found there shall be himself responsible for the death penalty which will follow." The discovery of this inscription confirms the statement of Jose- phus that the Stelae were placed in the balustrade around the peri- bolos, with inscriptions in Greek and Latin forbidding strangers to cross the sacred enclosure on pain of death. There was here a lion from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, fourth century B. C. ; also fragment of porphyry sarcophagus, believed to be a part of the cover to the sarcophagus of Constantine I and of his mother, Helena. Another sarcophagus we saw here is called "The Weepers." This is made of Pentelic marble, and was found at Sidon. The sides and ends are divided by Ionic columns into eighteen com- partments, in each of which is the figure of a woman in an attitude of grief. The attitude of each of these figures is different from the others. 274 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS This Sarcophagus, made of Pentelic marble, and also found at Sidon, is the most beautiful one that I ever saw. It is in an excellent state of preservation. Battle scenes and hunting S rconhaeus scenes in relief are pictured on the sides and ends, the whole arranged with artistic taste and beauty. As Alexander the Great is twice represented on it, the natural conclusion is that it is the sarcophagus of Alexander himself, hence the name; but this is not certain. Of more than ordinary interest was the Tabnith Sarcophagus, also found at Sidon. It was made in Egypt about the sixth century B. C. A hieroglyphic inscription states that the sar- Sarcophasus cophagus contained the remains of an Egyptian gen- eral named Penephtah; the remainder of the inscrip- tion recites a passage from the Book of the Dead. It seems prob- able that at some time the remains of Penephtah were put out and the sarcophagus carried to Sidon, for a Phoenician inscription makes its final destination clear, in the following interesting language: "I, Tabnith, Priest of Astarte, king of the Sidonians, son of Esh- munazar, Priest of Astarte, king of the Sidonians, am laid in this chest which you see here. I adjure each man who shall discover the chest which is here, come not hither, do not raise the covering, do not dis- turb me. For there is no silver, there is no gold, there are no treas- ures by my side. I am laid alone in this chest: do not raise the cover,, and do not disturb me, for such an act is an abomination in the eyes of Astarte. If you raise the cover, and if you disturb me, may you have no posterity among the living under the sun, nor any bed among the dead." But this imprecation upon the one who should presume to inter- fere with his bones was not sufficient to protect this old king irows being disturbed. When found, the sarcophagus was still unviolated; but when it was opened there were, after all, a few gold and silver ornaments found within. The withered body of the Sidonian king Tabnith now lies in a glass case at the head of the sarcophagus. It might be interesting to note that the discovery of these famous sarcophagi at Sidon was accidental. A peasant digging in his field near Sidon discovered a hole, at the bottom of which Nt^A^^^ ^^ suspected the presence of tombs. The Director Sarcophagi of the Imperial Museum, hearing of this, undertook an excavation, which resulted in the discovery of two underground chambers, from which twenty-six sarcophagi were with- drawn. One chamber had been violated at some time in the past, and i TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES ' 275 the sarcophagi which were contained therein therefore suffered; but the other chamber was found absolutely intact. The date of one of these sarcophagi, known as the Lycian, is clearly established by the character of the reliefs on it, which are directly inspired by the friezes of the Parthenon at Athens. As there is an interval of two centuries between the execution of the Tabnith sarcophagus and the so-called "Alexander sarcophagus," it is likely that these numerous sarcophagi were destined as resting- places of the princes of Sidon during the sixth, fifth, and fourth cen- turies B, C. In the room of Cuneiform Inscriptions I found a number of things of Biblical interest. One was a large pebble from Tello, containing a brief history of Eannatum, one of the earliest Baby- I^criptiOTis Ionian kings. There were contract tablets and sea! marks of the time of Artaxerxes, 464-424 B. C, and of Darius II, 424-404 B. C. ; molds for tablets of Sargon I an(J Naram-Sin, about 3,800 — 3,750 B. C. ; and Babylonian seals and cylin- ders from 3,500 B. C. until the Christian era. There was a small black box containing a tablet belonging to the fourteenth century B. C, and speaking of Zimridi, a governor of La- kish. This is the only cuneiform inscription that has Inscription been found in Palestine, and it is an important find, for it proves that cuneiform writing was common in Palestine fourteen centuries before Christ — about the time of the Israelite invasion. A tablet letter was found at Tel-el-Amarnaj written by Zimridi to a king of Egypt. In one of the showcases was a barrel cylinder, found at Nineveh, which told of the siege of Jerusalem by Sennacherib, when Hezekiah was "shut up like a bird in a cage." This cylinder was; Cylinder formerly in the British Museum, but was presented to- the Imperial Ottoman Museum by Queen Victoria^ Some of these inscriptions are of particular value in proving the his- torical character of certain events described in the Bible. After leaving the Imperial Museum, we went to see some of the an- cient cisterns. One, called Bin Bir Direk, Cistern of 1001 Columns,, Ancient Cisterns °^ Cistern of Philoxenus, measures 190 feet by 170 feet. It is underground, and we descended by a nar- row stairway. The vaulted roof is supported by 202 pillars, each pil- lar being composed of three tiers of shafts. The place is now half filled with earth. We were told that in former days this place was the scene of many murders, the unsuspecting victims being lured to the spot. 276 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Another underground cistern is the Yereh Batan Serai, or Basilica cistern, near the northwest corner of the place of St. Sophia. It was built by Constantine and enlarged by Justinian, and is still in use. Its size is 336 feet by 182 feet, and each of its 336 columns is 39 feet high. On the 18th of August we made a side excursion to Ismid, at the head of the Gulf of Ismid. Crossing over from Constantinople to Scutari, we took train along the eastern edge of the Sea of Marmora, passing the site of the ancient Chair cedon, where in 451 A. D., the General Council was held which resulted in the separation of the Armenian from the Ortho- Excursion to Nicomedia monastery at Ismid (XTicomedia) dbx church. On the way we passed by the Princes' Islands, each of which has some particular claim to distinction. The largest one, Prinkipo, is the place where the Empress Irene was imprisoned. Ismid is beautifully situated at the head of the gulf on the site of the an- cient Nicomedia. Here Diocletian established his capital, from which be directed the persecution of the Christians. On our return from Nicomedia, we found that Brother Ouzounian's passport had been granted; therefore early next morn- ing, August 19, we hastened to the Roumanian Con- sel to have our passports vised, and then embarked on a steamer bound for Constanza, Roumania. Trip to ftoiunania TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES •277 The passage through the Bosphorus was a trip never to be forgot- ten, on account of the beauty and variety of scenery crowded upon The Bosphorus *^^ shores. At every point could be seen either gov- ernment buildings, colleges, beautiful residences, charm- ing villages, ancient towers and castles, or strong modern forts. And every foot of these shores is also rich in historic associations. Here have surged the armies of Persians, Greeks, Huns, Saracens, Crusa- ders, and Turks. Here, at a point near the Roumeli Hissar, or Tower of Europe, the army of Darius, numbering 700,000 crossed the Bos- phorus on a bridge of boats, in the year 515 B. C. Nothing remains as a memorial of that event, however, except the rock on which Da- rius sat as he watched the Persian hosts pouring from Asia in- to Europe. The Bosphorus and the Euxine (the an- cient name for the Black Sea) also fig- ure in the early legen- dary history of Greece. The Black Sea, which is to this day subject to the most violent tempests, was the dread of mariners in those early times. And Grecian imagination contrived to pic- tpg^jgg ture this sea as an object of terror, like some horri- ble demon, standing ready to swallow up any daring adventurer that would presume to sail upon it. Thus in the Grecian legends we read of the Argonauts, those he- roes who performed a hazardous voyage to Colchis, a far-distant country at the eastern extremity of the Black Sea, for the purpose of securing a golden fleece, which was preserved suspended upon a tree, and under the guardianship of a sleepless dragon. These heroes succeeded in securing the fleece. The sight of the Cyanean Rocks, in the Bosphorus at the en- trance to the Black Sea, reminded me of some of these ancient legends ; for imagination and legend regarded these rocks as sentinels guard- ing the entrance to the forbidden sea, and crushing the adventur- ers who attempted to pass them. We read that the Argonauts halted Frinkipo Island 278 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS at the Court of the Blind Seer, King Phineas, on the shore of the Bosphorus, and defended him from the harpies which descended from the skies and stole his food. "In return for that service, Phineas gave the Argonauts instructions for passing the rocks, 'Let loose a dove: if it passes safely over the rocks, then use all the strength that sails and oars can give you, and trust more to your own arms than to the vows you may make to the gods. If the dove come back, turn round and retrace your steps.' When the Argo arrived at the place of danger, a dove was let loose, which escaped with the loss of its tail; the mariners attempted the passage, and rowed with all their might, and while the powerful arms of Athena held the rock asun- der, the ship got through, losing only some of its stern ornaments. But we found the Black Sea as quiet as a mountain lake, and had an en j oy able trip to Constanza, where we arrived early the follow- In Roumania ^^^ morning. After a few hours' ride on the train, crossing the Danube on the way, we reached Buchar- est, the capital of Roumania, shortly after noon. Here we remained over four weeks, holding meetings every day. However, as our la- bors in the work in Roumania, also of our proposed trip to Adrian- ople, Turkey, and Gumuldjina, Turkey (now Bulgaria), and other places, belongs more properly to the section of the present work devoted to "Personal Missionary Experiences," I shall refrain from giving a description of them in this place. September 17 we again reached Constantinople. # FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO THE SYRIAN COAST Again we were delayed in Constantinople, this time waiting for a steamer sailing to the ports we desired to reach. On September 23, however, we embarked on the Russian steamship Jerusalem, took our farewell view of Stamboul (the Turkish name for Constantinople), and sailed out into the Sea of Marmora. It so happened that on the return trip to the Syrian coast we traversed by day that portion of the journey which in going we had traveled by night. This was a course of considerable satisfaction to us, for it enabled us to view practically the whole scene along the west coast of Asia Minor. After crossing the Sea of Marmora, we reached Gallipoli, a town on the European side containing about 12,000 inhabitants, and pictur- The Dardanelles ^squely situated on a small peninsula at the entrance to the Dardanelles. Here Bayazid I erected extensive fortifications in 1391, but a small castle with an old tower is all TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 279 that now remains of them. Gallipoli was the first European town that fell into the hands of the Osmanli in 1357. On our right we passed a small river, Kara Kowa Dere, where Ljsander crushed the power of the Athenians in 405 B. C, thus put- ting an end to the Peloponnesian war. Farther along we reached the most interesting part of the Hel- lespont. A small castle situated just above the small bay of Ak-bashi Li- man, on the Thracian side, marks the first place in Europe where the Ottoman standard was planted by Suleiman L A little farther south, on the left, a low strip of land containing a high mound with a fort on its back juts out. This spot marks the site of Abydos. Thel passage here is about three-quarters of a mile wide. It was here that Xerxes crossed the Hellespont while on his way to invade Greece. Before that time Leander swam the channel here, a feat which wa^s duplicated by Lord Byron a century ago. Shortly afterward we reached Chanak (also called Dardanelles), a city of about 15,000 inhabitants, where all ships are obliged to stop and show their papers. Here natives in small boats crowd around every ship and offer prettily colored pottery for sale. Here the current, running constantly into the ^gean Sea, is of great rapidity. On both sides are castles armed with Krupp guns. From this point we approached the mouth of the Hellespont, which gradually widens. On the left opens up the famous plain of q,j.Qy. Troy. Here a small harbor formed by two prom- ontories marks the place where the Greek fleet was drawn up on shore during the Trojan war. On a height overlooking the plain, about an hour from the sea at the mouth of the Hellespont, stands the city of Troy. The exca- vations of Dr. Schliemann have shown that the remains of one city were superimposed upon another. The detailed description of these ancient ruins is indeed interesting. The discovery of this city is of value in showing that the Siege of Troy in Homer's Iliad has a foundation in historic fact, howevermuch it is entangled in the tra- ditions and legends of reputed heroes. We then entered the JEgean Sea, which abounds in islands, large numbers of which are too small to be noted on ordinary maps, but which, however, lend interest and variety to the trav- Aegean Sea ^^^^' ^°^ here "every island, every bay, even the small- est headland, is steeped in poetry and history." On our right appeared the large islands of Samothrace, Imbros, and 280 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Lemnos, and when the weather is clear Mount Athos can be seen. As we were anxious to investigate religious conditions in the East, we very much desired to visit Mount Athos, the home of monks, that Mount Athos ^® might have the privilege of studying monasticism where it exists untroubled and untrammeled by the institutions of civil society ; but we found the trip too difficult and too expensive for us in the amount of time at our disposal. Mount Athos, "the holy mountain," gives its name to a penin- sula about forty miles long and four miles wide stretching out from the European shore into the JEgean. The peninsula is heavily wood- ed, and the scenery is said to be magnificent. The chief interest of the peninsula, however, is in the monasteries and hermitages which have been established there for more than a thousand years. Karyse, the capital, has the distinction of being the Women only city in the world where no woman is to be found. For centuries no woman, and no animal of the fe- male sex, has been permitted to land on the promontory. A description of life in this solitary place is so well given by Tozer, in his Highlands of Turkey, that I will quote his own lan- guage. "At what period monks and anchorites first began to resort to Mount Athos, it is difficult to determine. . . . It is in conse- quence of this antiquity of the monastic community, and the free- dom both from attacks and from external influences which their iso- lated situation has secured to them, that Athos possesses so many features of interest at the present day. Nowhere in Europe prob- ably can such a collection of ancient jewelry and goldsmith's work be found as is presented by the relics preserved in the different mon- asteries ; nowhere certainly can the Byzantine school of painting be studied with equal advantage. Some of the illuminated manuscripts are inestimable treasures of art. The buildings of the monasteries are, with the sole exception of Pompeii, the most ancient existing speci- mens of domestic architecture, and within their walls the life of the Middle Ages is enacted before your eyes." Again Tozer says, "One of the greatest sources of interest in a visit to Athos consists in this, that here can be seen in one view all the different phases of eastern monastic life. First Paradise °^ ^^^' ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ hermits, who dwell like St. Anthony, the first anchorite, in perfect solitude, prac- tising the sternest asceticism. In the retreats we find small associa- tions of monks living together in retirement, and working for a com- TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 281 mon stock. Again, when a number of these retreats are assembled round a central church a skete is formed, which in some cases dif- fers from a monastery only in not possessing an independent con- stitution. And lastly, there are the regular monasteries, each en- joying a separate corporate existence, possessing lands on the moun- tain, and generally also beyond its limits, and having the right to be represented in the Synod." But as our steamer was keeping along close to the Asiatic shore, passing headlands and islands which figured in ancient legends and poems, the thought occurred to me that our interest Associations -^^ those places does not center in their classical as- History sociations alone, for they also stand connected with the gospel history. Over these same seas the apos- tle Paul sailed many centuries ago, and gazed upon these same islands. As we passed through the narrow channel between the island of Ten- edos and the coast, I knew that here on the shore of the mainland Troas ^^^ situated the town of TroaS, which Paul visited at least twice; first, on the occasion of his trip from Mysia to Macedonia, and second, on his return from Greece. On this second visit, the apostle remained for several days, in order that he might be with the brethren on "the first day of the week, when the disciples came together to break bread." It was at this time that Euuychus was restored to life (Acts 20). Continuing our course a little west of south, we reached Cape Baba, the most westerly point in Asia, then turned toward the east, ^ggQg following the course taken by Luke, Timothy, Troph- imus, and other fellowlaborers of Paul, who at Troas "went before to ship, and sailed unto Assos, there intending to take in Paul: for so had he appointed, minding himself to go afoot" (Acts 20:13). Soon we also reached the rocky hill of As- sos, where numerous and important excavations have been made by the American School at Athens. Here the ship bearing Paul's com- panions tarried until the apostle had time to walk across the promon- tory. "And when he met with us at Assos, we took him in, and came to Mitylene" (Acts 20:14). So also our next port of call was to be Mitylene. The large island of Mitylene now lay on our right, and after passing to its Mitylene eastern extremity we turned toward the south, leav- ing on our left the Gulf of Adramyti, at the head of which are the ruins of ancient Adramyttium. It was in a ship of Adramyttium that Paul sailed from Caesarea on his voyage to Italy 282 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS (Acts 27:3-5). Soon we reached the port of Mitylene, where we remained for some time. Just after leaving Mitylene we passed, on the left, Dikili, the modern port of Pergamum, which city, "with its ancient acropolis Pergamos °^ ^ rock rising out of the plain, self-centered in im- pregnable strength," was the capital of the Attalid kings in the third and second centuries B. C. Here was located one of the seven churches of Asia. When our steamer reached Smyrna, we learned that cholera was still raging in the city and that we could not land. This was a sore disappointment to us, for in addition to visiting Smyrna it- self, we had planned to make a side-trip to Ephesus. Ephesus dates from remote antiquity, and here was located the splen- did Temple of Diana, one of the Seven Wonders of the world. Here Paul planted the gospel amid great persecu- tion. The church at Ephesus was one of the seven in Asia, and here, according to tradition, John spent his declining years, died a natural death, and was buried. For a long time Ephesus stood at the head of the churches in Asia, and here the Third General Council was held (431 A. D.). But that church is no more. In accordance with the prophetic statement, the candle- stick has been removed out of its place (Rev. 2:5); and even the city itself is nothing but ruins. I Leaving Smyrna in the afternoon, we passed the island of Chios about night. When we entered the Gulf of Smyrna, a few hours be- QjjjQg fore, we varied from the course taken by Paul on the trip to which we have referred, for his ship went from Mitylene direct to Chios ; he did not stop, however, but proceeded to Samos (Acts 20:15). Neither did we stop at Chios; we also passed by Samos without stopping, and came on past the island of Cos direct to Rhodes. But Paul tarried at Trogylium and Miletus, and then Mersina, Asia Minor Disappointment at Smyrna TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 283 came on direct to Cos and Rhodes (Acts ^20: 15; 21 : 1). At Rhodes our routes varied, for in sailing from Rhodes Paul passed Cyprus on the left hand and went direct to Syria, landing at Tyre (Acts 21: 1-3). However, we nearly covered that exact course when going north, for we sailed from Syria (Beirut, north of Tyre), passing Cyprus on the right hand, and stopping at Rhodes. At 2 P. M., September 26, we started eastward from Rhodes along General View of Tarsus the south coast of Asia Minor, bound for Mersina. Here along the coast lay the regions of ancient Lycia and Pamphylia, the scene of some of the first missionary efforts of Paul and Barna- Mershia ° ^^^ (Acts 13: 13; 14: 24, 25). This is the coast along which Paul sailed, touching at Myria, in Lycia, on his voyage to Italy (Acts 27:5). We were informed that it would take thirty-six hours to make the trip from Rhodes to Mersina, but shortly after leaving Rhodes a young man, a Jew, bound for Jaffa, who had been on the ship with us from Constantinople, and who sat next to me at the table, took sick and died; and to avoid the necessity of burying him at sea, the captain ordered the ship to proceed with all speed to Mersina. Therefore we arrived after about thirty hours, on the evening of the twenty-seventh. 284 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Memorials of Massacre Mersina, the seaport town of the province of Adana, has a popula- tion of 19,000. Brother Ouzounian had some relatives here, whom Tarsus ^^ visited. We then took train to Tarsus, the ancient capital of Cilicia but now included in the province of Adana. During the Roman period. Tarsus was famed for its schools. Its inhabitants enjoyed the privileges of Roman citizens, and the city rose to such distinction as to rival Antioch, Athens, and Alexandria. Here the apostle Paul was born and here Julian the Apostate was buried. The town now con- tains about 16,000 inhabitants, but the plain in which it is sit- uated is damp and unhealthful. Tarsus suffered severely in the massacre of Christians, which took place four years before our visit (or in 1909). The blackened ruins of many houses still stand a mute testimony to those times of horror and desolation. Some of the peo- ple who formerly lived in good houses are now sheltering themselves as best they can a- mong the ruins. Here we vis- ited the home of Bro. Nazareth Keshishian, of Alexandria, E- gypt. And his people who were present during the massacre informed us that at that time the blood-thirsty Turks who ravaged the city slew mostly men, and carried off many nice girls and women. An American missionary told me that from their window they could see the attendants in the government arsenal nearby hand- ing out arms to the mob. From Tarsus we continued our journey to Adana, which lies in the plain at the south base of the Taurus Mountains. The city has Adana ^ population of about 25,000, one-half of whom are Christians. The massacre of 1909 brought Adana into a melancholy prominence, for it is estimated that about 25,000 per- St. Paul's Crate at Tarsus TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 2Sl sons were killed there. We remained there about a week in the home of Brother Ouzounian's cousin, who is the Director of Agriculture in the Province of Adaiia, At all these places we sought foropportun:- t y to accomplish good in our mission- ary work. Returning by rail to Mersina, Ave took steamer to Alexan- dretta, on the Syrian coast, arriving on the morning of October 9. This city was founded by Alexan- der the Great after his celebrated victory at Issus, and was intended to form the starting-place for the great caravan route to Trip to — - - - - . . , , Cascades at Tarsus Alexandretta Mesopotamia. The harbor at Alexandretta is the largest and best on the Syrian coast. But our chief interest, however, was not in Alexandretta itself; this was merely our starting-place on a side-trip to Antioch. We secured a carriage and started out on the long drive. After leav- ing town, our road be- gan to ascend in long windings, higher and higher, until finally we reached Beilan Pass, after which we began to descend. The slopes are covered with Ar- Alexaudretta To Antioch butus, pines, myrtles, and other trees. In about five or six hours we reached the Lake of Antioch, a lake mentioned by Libanius, and in about two hours more we arrived in An- tioch itself. 286 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS ANTIOCH Antioch is situated in the beautiful and fertile plain of the lower Oron- tes at the south base of the rugged Mount Silpius. The modern town occupies only one-tenth of the area of the ancient city, and contains about 28,000 inhabitants, one-seventh of whom are Christians. It is surrounded with many green orchards, which are irrigated by immense water-wheels turned by the river itself. Antioch was founded by Seleucus Nicator after his victory at Antioch, Syria Ipsus, 301 B. C. Seleucus and his successors adorned the city with magnificent buildings, and laid out streets of columns. The town Historic Sketch ^^^ ^^^° enlarged by Antiochus the Great, and Anti- ochus Epiphanes added a new residential suburb at the south end. The population was said to be of a restless and vo- luptuous character. The town frequently suffered from earthquakes, hxit it was always restored. It was the connection of Antioch with Christianity that attracted our attention and interest. Here for the first time a Christian church was formed entirely independent of the Jewish synagogue, and its members were here first called Christians (Acts 11:26). This was the scene of earnest la- tJliristlan Associations TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 287 Fart of Ancient Wall at Antioch bors of Paul, Barnabas, Peter, and others. From this point true missionary work began, for it was from here that Paul started on his missionary travels. And if Jerusalem is to be regarded as the cradle of Jewish Christiani- ty, Antioch claims the distinction o f being the cradle of Gentile Christianity. Antioch was the home of Ignatius, who suffered martyrdom in the time of Trajan. Here Chrysostom was a presbyter for twelve years ; and he it was who estimated the population of Anti- och, at the close of the fourth century, at 200,000, one-half of whom were Christians. The illustrious pagan scholar and orator Libanius, teacher of Chrysostom, also lived here. Julian the Apostate spent the winter of 362-3 at Antioch, at which time, while engaged in making prepara- tions for the Persian War, he wrote his treatise, "Against the Christians." In 457 and 458 the island quarter of the city was entirely de- stroyed by earth- quakes. During the reign of Justinian (526) an earthquake occurred in which 250,000 persons are said to have perished; and another similar catastrophe two years later destroyed 5,000 more. Justinian exhibited great zeal in rebuilding the city, but was unable to restore its former glory. During the medieval period it was besieged and captured again and again. We secured a guide and started out to view the sights of the city. Cave Chnrch of St. Peter at Antiocli Later Earthquakes 288 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Ancient Wall We learned that Antioch also suffered severely in the massacre of 1909. Our guide, an Armenian, stated that he was formerly a well- to-do business man; that on the occasion of this massacre he was ab- sent on a trip to Jerusalem; and that when he returned, he found that every member of his family and all of his relatives had been slain, and his property taken. Ancient Antioch lay not only in the plain, but also on the slopes and summit of Mount Silpius, and the ancient wall which surrounded it runs from the river up to the hills and beyond them. This wall can be seen from a great distance. We spent a long time in following its course, but the Bab-el-Hadid, or Iron Gate, was par- ticularly interesting. Here the wall, which is about sixty feet high, crosses a deep ravine, and at this gate, about ten and one-half feet thick, at the bottom part of which there is a nar- row sluice to give passage to the moun- tain stream, which in winter descends in great fury. From this point the wall is built directly up the hillside, which was so steep we could not climb it ; so returning across the water- course and, descending by a rough path, we came to the church of St. Peter. It is a rock cavern, and its use as a church is doubtless very ancient. But the tradition that Peter really preached in this place is doubtless unre- liable. The interior of the church was in great disorder, the effect,, we were told, of being ransacked during the massacre. We secured some mosaics from the floor. About eight or ten rods to the east of the church of St. Peter is a remarkable rock relief which was carved by order of Antiochus Epi- Rock Relief phanes in order to avert a pestilence from the city. It consists of a female head with headdress, fourteen and one-half feet high, and a complete female figure resembling a caryatid. The outlines are somewhat injured by age and exposure, but are still clearly visible. Ancient Rock Relief Church Of St. Peter TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 289 We also visited a number of other interesting sites which I will not attempt to describe. Returning, we arrived in Alexandretta late on the evening of October 11. The next day being Sunday, we attended meetings in the city. We then secured passage on an outgoing Beirut steamer, and after making one stop, at Tripoli, we arrived in Beirut October 14. In about two hours I rejoined my family and the saints in the village of Schweifat, in Mount Lebanon. RELIGIOUS AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA RELIGIOUS AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA To write a complete description of the races, religions, and social conditions of the people inhabiting the Near East would require a very large volume, hence is beyond the limits of the present chapter. I shall therefore confine myself to a brief consideration of those general con- ditions, religious and social, which will give point and clearness to the discussion of missionary work and methods in the following chapters. Nor is it essential to the accomplishment of this end that the present treatise should include in its scope the entire Levant, with its multiform and complex problems: it can for the most part be limited to Pales- tine and Syria. Syria is the name given to that part of Asiatic Turkey which lies at the east end of the Mediterranean Sea, bounded on the north by the g jg^ Taurus Mountains, on the northeast by the Euphrates River, on the east by the Syrian desert, and on the south by Arabia. It thus extends along the Mediterranean coast for a distance of about 380 miles. Syria is often spoken of in a narrower sense, as distinguished from Palestine, but in reality Palestine is simply a portion of Syria. Etymologically the term Syria is merely an abbreviation of As- syria, and thus the term Syrians was formerly applied to all the sub- ject-peoples of the vast Assyrian empire. Afterward, in the Greco- Roman period, the shorter word Syria came to be restricted to the territory west of the Euphrates, and thus the great mass of Semitic population inhabiting this territory came to be called Syrians, al- though more accurately Arameans (Gen. 10:22). RACES OF PEOPLE The present inhabitants of Syria are of different types, the origin of which dates back to a remote period. In the early historic times Arameans different nations, the majority of whom were of Semitic stock, fought and settled within its borders. The Arameans were powerfully influenced by the civilization of Greece 293 294 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS and Rome, but as a people they still retained their Aramean speech. It is said that there still exists, on the eastern slope of the Mounij Lebanon range, three villages in which Aramean is spoken. There are now no traces of the early races, such as Canaanites and Phoenicians, also nothing at present to mark the former presence of Greeks, Ro- mans, and Franks. For the sake of distinction, I shall use the term Aramean to designate the true Syrians of the present day — the de- scendants of the former Semitic stock. The majority of the Chris- tians dwelling in Syria are representatives of this race. The Jews, also of Semitic origin, are reckoned as a separate peo- ple, for as descendants of Abraham they have retained their racial Hebrews characteristics until the present time, and maintaiL their independence from all alien peoples with whom they associate. Their national history centered in the southern part of Syria (Palestine), where considerable numbers still reside, and they are also to be found in other parts of Syria, especially in the cities. Though Syria is included in the Turkish empire, the number of ^^jj.^g Turks resident in the country is comparatively small. For lack of reliable historical data, their origin is prac- tically lost in antiquity, but they are commonly reckoned as being of Turanian descent. The great majority of the population of Syria are Arabs, the Mohammedan conquest in the seventh century having opened the way ^jg^ljg for their migration. These, however, are of two prin- cipal types — the pure Arab type of the Nomad tribes (Bedouins) and the type of the town Arabs and peasants, which shows an intermixture of foreign elements. And these two present some sharp contrasts. The peasants are a settled, laboring class ; while their brethren, the Bedouin tribes, roam around over the coun- try, despising agriculture and a settled life. These Bedouins are a worthless, lawless set, more or less independent of the government, especially in those regions bordering on the desert, and they are often found with their herds of camels, sheep, and goats, imposing on the lands occupied by the poor peasants. This Arab migration succeeded in fixing the Arabic language upon the entire country. The Aramaic element of the population, however, admits of being distinguished from the Arabic type. It is especially strong in the mountainous districts. CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 295 RELIGION In Syria the religious consciousness is present everywhere and at all times with a vividness lacking in Protestant countries — everybody is religious. The idea of a direct and immediate re- Relleious lationship of the individual with God has taken such Sentiment fii'm hold upon the common consciousness of the peo- ple that it everywhere finds expression in stereotyped phrases in their language. "Inshallah" {if God will) is used as the equivalent of "I hope so." Many other religious phrases also are constantly used. But while this conception of the immediate relationship of the in- dividual with God is to a great extent lacking in Protestant lands, there is in the absence of such a sentiment one distinct advantage. The unbelieving individual who knows that in all spiritual respects God is shut out of his life, feels the necessity of having that real conversion which will restore his relationship with God. In sharp contrast with this, in Syria, where religion is naturally such a vital thing with every one, there being no consciousness of the soul's estrangement from God, there exists no longing for, and no clear idea of, conversion. Religion is accepted as a matter-of-fact — a mere accident of birth, we might say — and occasions little concern in this respect. If the inhabitants of Syria are diversified as to race, they are still more diversified as to their forms of religion. They are divided into Religious sects m^ny cults ; as, Mohammedans, Druses, Jews, Nuseiriyeh, Ismailiyeh, and Christians. The Motiam- medans are divided into sects, and the Christians are represented by many sects ; as, Greek Orthodox, Greek Catholic, Armenian Gregorian, Maronite, Roman Catholic, Syrian Jacobite, Armenian Catholic, Syrian Catholic, and different forms of Protestants. The division between the various religious cults is very sharp and distinct. At the time of the Ottoman Conquest the Turks did not seek to assimilate the peoples brought under their sway, but left them a certain degree of independent existence. The dividing line, however, between the different peoples was not race or nationality, but religion; and in law the heads of the respective religious bodies are regarded as secular heads also, so that a clear distinction is always kept up. As Frederick J. Bliss has said: "The relations of a man to his sect being not only religious but secular, he is never allowed to forget that he is Maronite, Greek, Jacobite,, or Protestant. The dis- 296 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS tinction of religion is a controlling force in political life. The Leb- anon, for example, is divided into districts, each governed by a qaimaqam, who belongs to that sect which predominates numerically. Thus, in Zahleh the qaimaqam must be a Greek Catholic; in the Kura, Greek Orthodox; in the Shuf, a Druse; in the Kesrouan, a Maronite. The other districts are ruled by Druses or Maronites according to the same law. A similar law has regulated exactly the proportion of minor offices which each sect can claim, down to the very position of sweeper in the government house!" This spirit of division between the religious sects has resulted in, and is still further fostered by, their segregation in villages, or in Segregation different quarters of the same town. Every travele.' in Syria has noticed that one village is pointed out as a Christian village; another, as Mohammedan; another, as Druse; or another, as belonging to a particular sect of Christians, as Maron- ite. Thus Suke-el-Gharb is Christian (mainly Greek Orthodox) ; Aitat, near by, is Druse; Kefun is Mohammedan; and Shemlan, a lit- tle to the south, is Maronite. In Palestine, Bethlehem is a Christian town, Bethany is Moslem; while Jerusalem has its Christian quarter, its Jewish quarter, and its Moslem quarter. This law of division not only rules in their segregation in villages, but is constantly employed in the designation of individuals. Foi* example, an overseer in describing the men working under him will say that there are two Orthodox, one Maronite, five Druses, and four Moslems. So natural has this idea become that it is employed gen- erally in certain colloquial expressions in their language. Thus, if one should desire to know the contents or composition of some inan- imate object, he will say, "Shu dinu.?" which means literally, ^^What is its religion?" It is probably unnecessary to state that there is and always has been much antagonism between these various religious cults; in the nature of things it could not well be otherwise. In Antagonism of , ,^ • fn> i>i 1^11 the Cults most cases their dinerences are lundamental, hence there is no possibility of union or harmony, except possibly a mere tolerance arising from necessity. But they are in- clined to be suspicious of each other, and numerous quarrels break out. Feuds between the Nuseiriyeh and Ismailiyeh are almost con- stant. Even the Moslems are not in harmony with each other, for the orthodox Sunni hate the sect Shiah Metawali. Christians despise Jews. Political strife between the Druses and Christians broke out in civil war in 1860, in which 12,000 or more Christians were mas- CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 297 sacred by the Druses. Since that time, however, their relations have been rather peaceful, except in the case of a few local and temporary misunderstandings. But in considering the matter of antagonism between religious cults, it should be remembered that the real sharp line of cleavage runs between Moslems and Christians. Such antag- Moslems and • • . ^ •^ i a m Christians onism is not everywhere the same, however, tor all depends upon the ratio of numbers, wealth, and influ- ence. But as Bliss has said: "The Moslems are ever conscious that theirs is the religion of the race that conquered Syria. The Chris- tians can never forget that theirs is the faith that was conquered. On the one side are often found hatred, arrogance, and contempt; on the other, hatred, fear, and suspicion. The smoldering embers are liable to be fanned into flame by any sudden event. After months and years of apparently peaceful relations, the murder of a Moslem by a Christian or of a Christian by a Moslem may provoke a series of re- prisals which, if not checked by the government with a strong hand, contains the possibilities of massacre." On account of this diversity of races and cults in Syria, a co- rect understanding of religious conditions can only be obtained by a study of the origin, beliefs, customs, and religious •bV-^°„t44j life of the various sects. It will therefore be neces- Beligious lilie Necessary sary for us to devote some space to their brief ex- amination. But since certain of the non-Christian sects, as the Nuseiriyeh and Ismailiyeh, are smalLand comparatively unimportant, I will pass them by and give particular attention to the Druses, Mohammedans, Jews, and certain sects of the Christians. THE DRUSES The Druses are a peculiar people, probably of mixed Syrian and Arabian origin, occupying the mountainous regions of the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, with extensive settlements in the Hauran, and, it is said, a considerable colony at Safed, in Palestine. They form the exclusive population of about 120 towns and villages, and share with Christians in the occupation of about 230 more. There are no reliable statistics, but their number is generally estimated to be about 75,000 men, not counting women and children. One of the most re- markable characteristics of this peculiar people is the pertinacity and success with which they have defended their independence against the encroachments of Turkish supremacy. Here, in possession of the religion which gives unity to the race, these hardy sons of the moun- tains have lived for more than seven centuries. 296 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Mr. and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald, in Druse Costume CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 299 Although the religion of the Druses is in many respects mysterious, its rise and progj"ess can be stated with precision. It is generally re- garded as an heretical off-shoot of Islam, for as a Dn^in Cult system of thought its leading principles can be traced back to the Shiite sect of the Batenians, whose main doctrine was that "every outer has its inner, and every passage in the Koran an allegorical sense." The founder of this cult was El-Hakim Biama- Allah (that is, he who judges by the command of God), the sixth of the Fatimite caliphs of Egypt. During his reign, which began in the year 1019 A. D., he indulged in a tyranny so terrible as to leave little doubt of his insanity. But as mad men or self-deceived enthusiasts sometimes do, he believed that he held a special intercourse with the Deity, and even proclaimed himself an incarnation of God. When these claims were made known in the mosque at Cairo, they were accepted and sus- tained by Ismael Darazi. On account of the hostility which the new faith produced, Darazi was compelled to seek safety in flight, and, being possessed of great zeal, he succeeded in winning over the ig- norant inhabitants of the Lebanon. El-Hakim, the founder of the cult, having disappeared, probably by assassination, his followers were persuaded to believe that he had merely disappeared, but would return to this earth and reign over it. But the faith of El-Hakim found even a stronger supporter in the person of Hamze ben Ali, a Persian mystic, who gave form and sub- stance to the creed, and enlisted an extensive body of adherents. And because Darazi had acted independently in his work, he was branded by Hamze as an heretic ; and thus, curiously enough, he is detested by the very sect which bears his name. The religion of the Druses is designed to be kept a profound secret. But some of their works of theology have fallen into the hands of Drusian Creed Christians, and therefore the main articles of their creed can now be stated with tolerable certainty. They are unitarians ; that is, they believe that there is one, and only one, God, but that he has made himself known to men by ten successive incarnations, that of El-Hakim being the tenth. No further incarna- tion can take place, for in El-Hakim the last appeal was made to mankind, and then the door of mercy was finally and forever closed. They also believe in the transmigration of souls ; that after death the souls of the virtuous pass into the bodies of Chinese Druses (they be- lieve that large numbers of their people exist in China), while those of the wicked may be degraded to the level of lower animals. And 300 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS since the door of mercy is closed and converts are no longer admit- ted, they are enjoined to keep their doctrines secret from the profane. In order the better to accomplish this end, they are allowed, if neces- sary, to make a,ny outward profession of religion that best suits their convenience. Before their conquest by Ibrahim Pasha, in 1835, they pretended to be Moslems, in order to avoid being confounded with Christians who were suffering oppression; but later, when the Con- queror proposed drafting them into his army, in order to obtain im- munity they declared themselves to be Protestant. This liberal use of religon as a cloak is so well known to the people of the country, that, when we were there, we noticed that it was practically impossible to get any native Christian to acknowledge even the possibility of the actual conversion of Druses. Missionaries, however, have been sat- isfied with genuineness in a few individual cases. Obedience is required to the seven great commandments of Hamze, which are as follows: 1. Only truth must be spoken (that is, of Druse toward Druse) ; 2. Care of the brethren ; 3. Commandments Absolute renunciation of every other religion (this does not interfere with different religious pretensions made to other people) ; 4. Separation from heretics ; 5. Recognition of the unity of God in all ages ; 6. Resignation to his will ; 7. Complete obedience to his orders. Prayer is regarded as "an impertinent in- terference with the Creator." Not all members of the Druse community are trusted with the chief secrets of their own religion, the deeper mysteries being reserved for those who are initiated into a special class called A SecrGlf Qj^gj. oqqal — the wise; while the other members, regardless of position or attainments, are designated jahhal — the foolish or simple. The services of the initiated are held on Thurs- day evening in the khulwehs, which are usually situated on some lonely hilltop. The initiated class number about fifteen per cent of the com- munity; its membership being open to any Druse, of either sex, who is willing to conform to the laws of the society and give proof of his sincerity through a period of probation. They are required to ab- stain from tobacco and wine, and the women are to wear neither gold, silver, nor silk. I suppose it is the rigidity of these requirements that keeps the percentage of the initiated small. The oqqals mingle freely with the common people, but they are careful to maintain their pecu- liar privileges. They are distinguished by the wearing of a white turban. They are also divided into two classes, and I suppose that it CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 301 is from the higher class that the sheikhs are appointed. According to the report of the Christian inhabitants of the Leb- anon, the Druses hold the doctrine that any act which they may com- mit is all right, provided it is done in secret and not ReTK)rts discovered; and the Christians are persuaded accord- ingly that the Druses are guilty of atrocious prac- tises m their secret meetings. Perhaps in this case, as in many others, "ignorance is the mother of suspicion." Others state that it is only one class of Druses that believe in libertinism, while the others are strict moralists. Whatever the actual facts are in this respect, it is just to state that the Druse theological works to which we have ac- cess inculcate a fairly good standard of morality. In private life the Druses are noted for their hospitality. They are especially friendly with the English and American people. Po- lygamy is not permitted among them, but the mar- H^pd a y riage of blood-relation (but not of brother and sis- Marriage ter) is common. All prenuptial arrangements on the part of the woman are conducted by the father, with her consent. The wedding ceremony is an elaborate one and the revels continue for several days. Divorce is freely allowed, and either party is free to marry again. The women have their faces veiled when in the presence of men other than their own husbands or immediate rela- tives. THE MOHAMMEDANS Mohammedanism as a religion owes its origin to Mohammed, the so-called prophet of Arabia, who was born at Mecca about 570 A. D. When about forty years of age, he began to announce himself as an apostle and to proclaim the doctrine of Islam (salvation) that "There is no God but Allah, and Mohammed is his prophet." It is not essential to our purpose to give here an extended history of the rise and progress of Mohammedanism. It is sufficient to state a few facts only. The Mohammedan era is dated from the time of the flight of the prophet to Medina (622 A. D.), and from that time the movement spread with remarkable rapidity through the union of po- litical power, religious zeal, and fanaticism. Within a few years the whole of Arabia, Palestine, and Syria were subdued by the victorious onslaughts of the Saracen followers of the prophet ; and still the movement continued to sweep on, conquering other countries. After awhile the initial movement expended itself, and then the power of the Saracen empire began to decline. Their religion, however, was 302 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS taken up by the Ottoman Turks, originally from Central Asia, who finally succeeded them in the caliphate. In the thirteenth century these Ottoman Turks, appearing as allies of the Seljukian Turks, established themselves in Asia Minor, and their leader, Othman, pro- claimed himself Sultan. After Othman, or Osman, came eight great princes — caliphs — noted for their courage and enterprise, who, being animated by religious fanaticism and a passion for military glory, soon subdued the entire territory of the Near East and established the Ottoman empire. The Koran is the foundation of Islam. It was written by Mo- hammed during a period of twenty-three years. He claimed to have The Koran received it from God through the mediation of an angel, who is called the "spirit," sometimes "the holy spirit," and at a later time "Gabriel." This book is the sacred book of more than 200,000,000 people, who regard it as the immediate word of God. It is read extensively in schools, public worship, and privately — much more so (to our shame be it said) than is the Bible in the most Christian countries — and it has therefore been described as the most widely read book in existence. In Islam, the Koran is theoretically the final authority in all ques- tions, whether relating to theology, practical religion, or jurispru- dence ; for, like the law of Moses, no distinction is made between things secular and sacred. But the traditions of Mohammed, concerning what he said and did, has come to possess an authority equal to the Koran, and as these cover in detail almost every matter of ceremony and practise the entire system of Mohammedanism is rendered rigid; or, as Lord Cromer has said, "Islam speaking not so much through the Koran as through the traditions that cluster around the Koran, crystallizes religion and law into one inseparable and immutable whole, with the result that all elasticity is taken away from the social system." Mohammed took particular pains to give his religion definite form and substance so as to insure its longevity, but he predicted that Sects of Islam ^^ would be divided into seventy-three sects, every one of which would go to hell, except the one which rep- resented the religion of himself. But the number of sects has far exceeded seventy- three, the adherents of each one believing that they are following the true religion of the prophet, and will therefore be "saved." There are, however, but two main divisions — the Sunnis, who are known as the Orthodox, and the Shiahs. After Mohammed's death Abu-bekr, his father-in-law, succeeded him, and straightway CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 303 another party arose, holding that Mohammed's son-in-law, Ali, was by right entitled to be his immediate successor. The former party constitute the Orthodox, who are dominant in the Ottoman e)npire, Arabia, and Africa; while the latter party constitute the majority of Moslems in India, and form the national religion of Persia. Some of these exist in Syria also, where they are popularly known as Metawileh. Mohammedanism rests upon five pillars of practical religion. Ac- cording to the list of the Or- PiUars of Islam ^^o^ox Sunnis these are: 1. Confession of the creed; 2. Prayer; 8. Fasting; 4. Alms- giving; 5. Pilgrimage. The Shiahs, however, omit the first as belonging to the list of be- liefs, and, changing the enu- meration, substitute, in the fifth place, the holy war. The confession of the creed is simply the repetition of the M o h a mmed- an's common formula of prayer — "There is no God but Allah, and Mohammed is his prophet." To the followers of Moham- med, prayer is one of the most important, as well as one of the most noticeable, things in Minaret with aCnezzln Calling' the Faithful to connection with practical re- rayer ligion. It must be engaged in at five stated periods each day, at which time the face of the worshiper must be turned toward Mecca. Prayer '^^^ hours of prayer are announced from the min- arets of the mosques by muezzins, who with loud voice call the faithful to the worship of Allah. The call to prayer, trans- lated, is as follows: "God is great [four times repeated]. I bear witness that there is no God but God [twice repeated]. I bear witness that Moliammed is the Apostle of God [twice repeated]. Come to prayers, come to Witness to the Creed 304 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS prayers, come to salvation, come to salvation. God is great. There is no other God but God." While traveling through the Holy Land our Mohammedan driver would stop by the roadside at the appointed times, and in our pres- ence fulfil the order of prayer. And when traveling by steamer oil the Mediterranean, on cloudy days Moslem pilgrims inquired of us the directions, in order that they might turn their faces toward their Holy City, Mecca, while kneeling or prostrating themselves on their prayer-mats. In the mosques at Cairo, Constantinople, and other places we saw large companies of the faithful engaged in these de- votions. The order of ordinary prayer, as given in "Notes on Muham- medanism," by Rev. T. P. Hughes, is as follows: The Niyyat, said standing, with the hands on either side: "I have purposed to offer up to God only, with a sincere heart, this morning [or as the case may be] with my face liblawards, two Rak'at prayers." The Tdkhir-i-Tdhrmah, said with the thumbs touching the lobules of the ears, and the open hands on each side of the face: "God is great." The Qiam, said standing, the right hand placed upon the left, be- low the navel (women place their hands on their breasts) : "Holiness to thee, O God! And praise be to thee. Great is thy name, Great is thy gi'eatness, There is no deity but thee." ' ' I seek refuge from God from cursed Satan. In the name of God, the compassionate, the merciful. Praise, be to God, Lord of all the worlds! The Compassionate, the Merciful. King on the day of reckoning. Thee only do we worship, and to thee only do we cry for help. Guide thou us in the straight path, The path of those to whom thou hast been gracious; With whom thou art not angry, and who go not astray. Amen." "Say: He is God alone: God the eternal. He begetteth not And is not begotten, And there is none like him." (And portions of the Koran may be recited, as the worshiper may wish.) The Ta1cbir-i-Ruku\ said standing, body and head inclined for- ward, the hands resting on the knees, the fingers separated a little: "God is great." CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 305 The Tasbih-i-Ruku\ same position: "I extol the holiness of my Lord, the Great." (Thrice repeated.) The Qiam-i-Sami Ullah, said with body erect, the hands placed on either side: The Imam says : "God hears him who praises him." The people respond: "O Lord, thou art praised." The Takbir-i-Sijdah, said as the worshiper drops on his knees: "God is great." The Tasbih-i-Sijdah, recited as the worshiper puts first his nose Moslems at Prayer and then his forehead to the ground: "I extol the holiness of my Lord, the Most High." (Thrice repeated.) The T akhir-i-Ialsa, said while the worshiper raises his head and body, sinks backward to sit upon his heels, and places his hands on his thighs : "God is great." The Takbir-i-Sijdah, said by the worshiper while prostrate as before: "God is great." The Tasbih-i-Sijdah, said by the worshiper, still prostrate: "I extol the holiness of my Lord, the Most High." (Thrice repeated.) The Takbir-i-Qiam, said standing, or Takbir-i-Qa'ud, said sitting: "God is great." Here endeth one Rak'at, or form of prayer. 306 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS The next Rak'at begins with the first chapter of the Koran. At the close of every two Rak'ats the Attahiyat \& recited, the worshiper kneehng on the ground, sitting on his left foot, which is bent undei,< him, his hands upon his knees: 'The adorations of the tongue are for God, and also the adorations of the body, and Alms-giving. Peace be upon thee, O Prophet, with the mercy of God, and his blessing. Peace be upon us, and upon God's righteous servants." The Tashahhud, said with the first finger of the right hand raised: "I testify that there is no deity but God, and I testify that Moham- med is the servant of God, and the messen- ger of God." ( Every two Rak- 'ats closes with the Tashahhud. ) The Darud, said in the same posture: "O God, have mercy on Mohammed and on his descendants as thou didst have mer- cy upon Abraham and on his descend- ants. Thou art to be praised, and thou art great. O God, bless Mo- hammed and his descendants, as thou didst bless Abraham and his de- scendants. Thou art to be praised, and thou art great." The Du'a : "O God our Lord, give us the blessings of this life, and also the blessings of life everlasting. Save us from the torments of fire." The Salaam, said turning the head round to the right: "The peace and mercy of God be with you." The Salaam, said turning the head round to the left: "The peace and mercy of God be with you." At the close of the whole set of prayers the worshiper raises his hands and offers a Munajate, or supplication, which usually consists of prayers selected from the Koran or Hadis. The hands are raised in order to catch a blessing from heaven, and they are afterwards drawn over the face in order to transfer it to every part of the body. During the month of Ramadan, it is the duty of the Moslem to abstain from eating and drinking every day, from the first appearance IB p n 9P pt*;:«^4f^^MH s I^^Pv'J^^B "^ 'i- s -'. " * Bl^" A*p ■~V>/ Native Shoemalcer, Syria CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 307 Fasting of daybreak until the sunset. This is regarded as an atonement for sin. Persons who are physically incapacitated, however, are exempt from these exactions. It requires a great deal of courage and ofttimes no little suffering to observe faith- fully this requirement; especially during the long days of summer in the tropics among the poor who are obliged to continue their occu- pations and the travelers who must continue their journeys through the hot sun. On the whole, however, this fast is quite generally ob- served. But what they lose by fasting in the daytime they make up Women Going' to Marbet by feasting at night ; for as soon as the sun has set they are free to feat. The choicest food of the year is prepared for the night feasts' of Ramadan. In Palestine and Syria voluntary charity is a means of popularity^ but such is not the legal almsgiving enjoined by the fourth pillar of Almsgiving Islam, though the latter doubtless had its origin in the disposition voluntarily to part with a certain por- tion of goods for the benefit of others. The legal almsgiving was a sort of religious income tax levied upon the kinds of property that were owned in Arabia in the seventh century. The rate levied on different articles varied, but on some things, as fruit, it was as high as one-tenth. It is estimated that the rate averages one-fortieth of 308 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Pilgrimage the entire income. It has been said that these regulations, based upon the practise of Mohammed, "show a complexity of detail that is rivaled only by a modern tariff bill," but "unlike a modern tariff bill, these regulations have not been subject to revision." The fifth of the paramount duties of the Moslem is the perform- ance, at least once in his lifetime, of a pilgrimage to Mecca. This law is one of the most unequal requirements of the Moslem faith and practise, for it involves a tremendous amount of sacrifice and effort on the part of some, while it is comparatively^ easy for others — depending largely on the wealth and ge- ographical location of the be- liever. But each Moslem faith- fully endeavors to fulfil this requirement, and every year thousands of these toiling pil- grims wend their way over land and sea toward Mecca. But many of them, worn out with fatigue, die along the way. The simple formula of faith — "There is no God but Allah, and Mo- Dogmatic , T . , . Theology hammed is his prophe t ' ' — does not constitute the entire Mohammedan creed ; there is a dogmatic, or theoretical, part which embraces the following points : "1. Belief in God, who is without beginning or end, the sole Creator and Lord of the universe, having absolute power, knowl- edge, glory, and perfection. 2. Belief in his angels, who are impec- cable beings, created of light. 3. Belief in good and evil Jinn [genii], who are created of smokeless fire, and are subject to death. 4. Belief in the Holy Scriptures, which are his uncreated word revealed to the prophets. Of these there now exist, but in a greatly corrupted form, the Pentateuch, the Psalms, and the Gospels ; and in an uncorrupted and incorruptible state the Koran, which abrogates and surpasses all preced- Moslem Women in the Street CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 309 ing revelations. 5. Belief in God's prophets and apostles, the most distinguished of whom are Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus, and Mohammed. Mohammed is the greatest of them all, the last of the prophets and the most excellent of the creatures of God. 6. Belief in a general resurrection and final judgment, and in future rewards and punishments, chiefly of a physical nature. 7. The belief, even to the extent of fatalism, of God's absolute foreknowledge and predestina- tion of all events both good and evil." — "Universal Encyclopedia," Art. "Mohammedanism." It is said that Mohammed instituted reforms which ameliorated the condition of women in Arabia in the seventh century. While this may be true to a certain extent, it is also a fact, for which Moham- med is directly responsible, that, in his desire to protect his religion from change, he so fixed its character that it is im- Women possible for the world of Islam to throw off certain restrictions and customs concerning women. And these limitations, howevermuch they may have been adapted to con- ditions in Arabia in the seventh century, are altogether unsuitable for other lands at the present day. As Bliss has well said, "The posi- tion of women under Islam today is a striking illustration of the evils inherent in a religious and social system that has been practically im- movable since the death of its prophet." These evils can scarcely be exaggerated. Woman is regarded as inferior to man and subject to him in everything. She is kept se- cluded ; and few indeed must be the things productive of happiness in her prison-life of the harem. This seclusion prevents the man from seeing his bride-to-be and from forming any acquaintance with her, which under a polygamous system fosters jealousies and quarrels. The Moslem is allowed four contemporaneous wives, and in addition to these concubinage with slaves is his recognized right. He may beat his wife, but it will occasion no concern on the part of any one, for she is his. He may divorce her without any cause and without any process of law. An adherent of the Sunnis need only say to his wife three times, "Thou art divorced," or "thou art free," and the divorce is final. Such power on the part of the husband introduces a terrible ele- ment of uncertainty into the life of Moslem women. In case of di- vorcement, however, the woman Is not wholly without rights. In Syria, if she be friendless, she can state her case before the court, and if she wish to marry again a husband must be provided for her ; if not, her former husband must support her and also her children. If chil- 310 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS dren are under seven years of age, they go with the mother; if over seven, they are allowed to choose. No doubt there are homes even under this system where comparative happiness reigns ; for all the men are not polygamists, and some may be kindly dispositioned. The law requires that if a man have more than one wife he must provide a special apartment for each one, and this makes polygamy a luxury that can scarcely be indulged in by the poor. It is said, however, that in some places poor polygamists dis- regard this requirement of the law. When Moslem women appear in public, they are always heavily Native Women Carrying' Water veiled. While Islam has so much that we feel inclined to condemn, it Temperance ^^^ some things that are worthy of commendation. One is, its exhibition of temperance. Total absti- nence is as much a part of Mohammedanism as is prayer, fasting, and pilgrimage, and for centuries this has been the glory of Islam. This practical elimination of drunkenness from millions of peo- ple, the vast majority of whom are grossly ignorant and vile in other respects, is a clear example of the potency of prohibitive measures in suppressing the drink-evil. May our Christian {?) nations fol- CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 311 low the example. But with sorrow and shame I feel it necessary to quote the following language of Bliss: "The use of intoxicants in Mohammedan lands can always be traced to Western influences. Through education obtained abroad, and through the temptations of bars and saloons kept by Christians [.''], native and foreign, drinking is on the increase among all classes of Moslems in the seaport towns of Syria and Palestine, as well as some interior cities. However, to see a drunken man, of any religious sect. Christian or Moslem, is a rarity in these lands. The whole population is, as a rule, still temperate." And I might add that it is "the temptation of bars and saloons" that fosters the drink-evil in our so-called Christian lands. An evil with which Islam has always been associated is slavery; and Islam and slav- ery have become so entangled that the abolition of slavery is practically impossi- ble. Where a strong Western sentiment exists, Moslems keep the matter of slavery in the background ; but it virtually exists even in Turkey at the present day, and Arabia is still the center of the Afri- can slave-trade. It is declared on reliable authority that in Damas- cus alone there are 2,000 white slaves in the families of the higher class of native Moslems. Most of the females are concubines. The children of such slave-concubines, however (as in all Islam), are free, and enjoy the same privileges as do the children of a legal wife. By bearing a child to her master the slave herself becomes free. The harems of Constantinople are also supplied with white slaves from Circassia. According to Moslem theology, God is one and sovereign; man's duty is to bow to His supreme will. It furnishes no Survey incarnation, and no atonement to bring man into filial relationship with God; in fact, man is only the servant, or slave, of God, not the son and heir. Thus, instead of bringing God near and manifesting him in human life, it merely re- An Arab Caravan Slavery 312 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS veals the immensity of that space which separates man from God. It is fataKstic in the extreme, for instead of teaching that man is free to will, to choose, and to act, it teaches that he is a mere zero gov- erned by unchangeable decrees. In short, the entire system gives an imperfect conception of God and a wretched conception of man- kind, especially of women. The natural and inevitable result is the degradation of family and social life, such as we see in the world of Islam today. And while in certain of the darkest places of the earth Mohammedanism appears to accomplish a certain amount of good by destroying idolatry and elevating men from the lowest savage state, the system is so fettered by its fundamental creed that it leads to intellectual and moral stagnation. The population of Syria and Palestine is approximately 3,250,- 000, of whom nearly 2,000,000 are Moslems. THE JEWS The history and belief of the Jews are so well known that I need not narrate them here ; so I shall refer briefly to a few points con- cerning the Israelites at present in the Holy Land. There are in all Syria and Palestine approximately 140,000 Jews, of whom about 80,- 000 reside in Palestine. The majority of the Palestinian Jews use Arabic only. For the last four hundred years Safed, to the north-, west of the Sea of Galilee, has been the home of Jews, and there they have retained their native Hebrew, even forcing their Moslem neigh- bors to speak the Hebrew also. The Zionist movement has resulted greatly in the spread of Bib- lical Hebrew in Palestine. But the increased number of Jews in Je- rusalem at present is due not so much to the Zion- Movement ^^^ Movement as to the fierce persecutions of Hebrews in Russia and Roumania. The reports sometimes given out in the West that immense numbers of Jews are flocking to Pales- tine is a gross exaggeration. Bliss is authority for the statement that there are now about 10,000 Jews scattered in about thirty-three agricultural colonies found almost literally from Dan to Beersheba. And in the following words he refers to the attitude of the average Jerusalem Jew toward the Zionist Movement: "While there are a score of prominent Zionists in the Holy Land, it may be confidently stated that Zionism means more in Vienna and Paris, in London and New York, than it does in Palestine. To the pious Orthodox Jews, political Zionism is folly, if it is not blasphemy. God, they hold, is to bring back the Jews in his own time and way CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 313 without human plan or assistance. To the thousands of Jews who earn their daily living in the Holy City, Zionism has no significance (j>ne way or the other." — "Religions of Modern Syria and Palestine," pp. 321, 322. THE CHRISTIANS In the early ages of Christianity the apostles and their successors founded numerous , 1: ■ "^'^^'Sii^^ ^Jiiit^mti4; -""^7^*****^^ „ ,„ , ss\ ^,^;:-<'..v ,.■ .■ . ..M A Fart of Shweifat, Mount Iiebanon of the conception of the near relationship of morality and religion. I am not saying that there are not moral people there; but a clear con- ception of the fact that religion and morality must go together is strangely lacking. There, people can be very sinful and immoral, and intensely religious at the same time, without special notice being taken of the inconsistency. Among Moslems, who are particularly given to the greatest manifestations of religious devotion, there is no idea that these prayers are or should be connected with a strong moral "'The Land and the Book," p. 178. PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 335 feeling. On the other hand, they are rather inclined to suspicion any one especially given to prayer — their prayers. They have a proverb like this : "If your neighbor has made a pilgrimage to Mecca once, watch him; if twice, avoid his society; if three times, move into an- other street." Even Christians are not accounted Christians because of any per- Our Home and Place of Worship in Schweifat sonal acceptance of Christ or experience of conversion. All the Christian sects of the East baptize infants and, holding the doctrine of baptismal regeneration, all these are, by this act, constituted Chris- tians. Therefore all baptized people are thereafter accounted Chris- tians, irrespective of moral character. In accordance with this stand- ard, the report would come to us, "A Christian killed a Druse this morning" ; or, perhaps, "A Christian shot a Mohammedan." In other words, the term Christian is not limited, in the Bible sense, to those who are holy, or even moral, but designates that portion of the community which professes belief in Christ. Our first stopping-place in Syria was in the village of Suke-el- Gharb, situated high up on the western slope of the Lebanon mountains. Here we remained about one month, during which time, being the summer-resort sea- son, we had only a few services. As soon as the weather got a little Religious Services 336 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS cooler we moved down to the village of Shweifat, where we made our permanent place of residence while in Syria. Here we began regular meetings, holding part of the services in a large room in our house and the remainder in the schoolroom of the native school already referred to. As we were unable to preach in the Arabic language, it was neces- sary to have an interpreter. After uttering a sentence or two, the Translation speaker would hesitate and give opportunity for the translator to deliver it to the people. This method seemed quite awkward to me at first, but I soon got accustomed to it, and could preach with comparative ease. In the various places wherti we held meetings in the different countries we had to have translation into about six or seven languages. In Cairo, Egypt, and in Bucharest, Roumania, I was obliged to have two translators at the same time ; one giving it in one language, and the other in another. The effectiveness of preaching in this manner depends, to a great extent, upon the ability and character of the interpreter. The per- sonality, religious zeal, and fervency of the preacher do not trans- late as do the words which he utters ; therefore a great deal of the effect is lost unless the translator is also a spiritual person and in full sym- pathy with the character of the message. We were very fortunate in that we were usually able to secure good, saved translators. The greatest difficulty that I felt at first, however, was not the method of translation by which the sermon must be delivered, but was in knowing the exact needs of the people, what to Darkness preach, and how to preach in order to be effective in reaching them. We are not conscious of the important place language fills in our relations with men until we are placed in a foreign land where, in this respect, a gulf exists between us and the people. And this difficulty is complicated a dozenf old by the differences of religious thought and training, which I have already mentioned. I began preaching, as to sinners in America, that people should come to Christ; but I soon learned that there was no sinner-class there — these were all Christians, and had no consciousness of being away from Christ. I then preached that Christianity is a real thing, that we must be born again and have a new heart; but when I gave the first altar- call nearly the whole congregation came forward, praying for a new heart. I thought this was the beginning of a tremendous revival; but I soon learned that the majority had little conception of a definite, in- dividual experience of salvation; that they were in the habit (some of them, at least) of praying, "Lord, give me a new heart." It meant so little to them. I wanted them to pray for a new heart, but I also PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 337 wanted them to get it, and then pray another kind of prayer. It is difficult indeed to get them, with their conception of Christianity, to see that without an individual salvation they are not Christians at all, in the Bible sense, but are lost ; when, however, they realize and feel this condition, it is possible for them to get real salvation. Another difficulty we met in that country was a different attitude toward the Bible itself. The Greek Orthodox and some other Chris- tion sects do not manifest hostility to the Book, as do Toward the ^^^ Maronites, who are allied to the papacy, but their Bible attitude towards its teaching differs from ours. In Protestant lands we have the idea that the Bible is the supreme word of God and the rule of faith and practise ; but the Greek Orthodox, for example, hold that the standard of religious authority is the Bible, as interpreted by tradition. But, as in the case of the Phar- isees of old, their additions and forms have accumulated until they have "made the word of God of none effect by their traditions." The clear, definite, doctrinal teaching which I gave them, textually, was at first largely lost, simply because any presentation of the Bible other than their own traditional way does not obligate their conscience. When I held certain plain teachings of the Word before some of them, they freely admitted the requirements, but apparently without any idea in the world of being obliged to conform to that standard ; their final word was, "But our custom is this way." I shall not take the space here to describe the character of the preaching necessary to secure the desired end, since this will be con- sidered in the following chapter on Missionary Methods ; but I am glad to say that after a while some became really conscious of their condition and need and obtained clear experiences of salvation, and later were made to understand the truth of entire sanctification, and pressed into the experience. Although the women of that country are exceedingly fond of wearing jewelry, those who came right out into the truth were ready to lay it aside and dress plainly, according to the Bible standard. Thus a little band of happy saints was raised up. With all the difficulties just mentioned, we found it comparatively easy to preach and practise any of the Bible truths which were not sufficiently distinctive as to require in their accep- Difficulties of . j n -j. x. t j? j.t- t • Baptism tance a denmte breakmg-away from the religious cus- toms and practises of the people. For example, a Greek Orthodox might become awakened and obtain a real exper- ience of salvation, and it would not occasion a great deal of com- 338 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS ment; he would still be counted as a Greek. But when we began to preach the Bible standard concerning baptism of believers (adults), and they were convinced that we intended to practise just what we preached, this proved to be the offense of the cross. As already stated, baptism, in their conception, is the thing that constitutes people Christians, and they term unbaptized people heathen; so when one of their number decides to be baptized in the Bible way he is generally opposed by all his relatives, for the act reflects upon them as being only heathen. Therefore there was a strong public senti- Oiir Pirst Baptismal Candidates in Syria (Five Iiadies in Center) ment against us in this respect, wherever we attempted to follow the Word of God concerning baptism. And I regret to say that some who professed a higher standard of grace than their countrymen al- lowed themselves to be so far influenced by public sentiment as to fail to openly encourage and support this truth, knowing that to do so might affect or injure their own interests. However, all those who obtained salvation under our labors willingly responded, to the best of their ability, to the truth concerning baptism ; and as many as were able to do so were baptized. Praise the Lord! The great majority of the people never saw an adult baptized, and have no idea of how it is done. All the baptism they know is PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 339 that rite which is administered to the little naked babes, as I have heretofore described. This lack of understanding sometimes occasions embarrassing incidents. One time when Brother Inci^nts Ouzounian was preaching concerning the necessity of baptism, a sister became very much burdened over the matter. But it appeared to be very difficult for her to decide to obey; and she kept saying, "How can I ever do it?" "How can I ever do it.?" Some one tried to encourage her, saying, "Yes, 3'ou can do that all right." She then said, "How can I take oif all of my clothes and have that man baptize me.''" When she was informed that such was not necessary, but that she could go and be baptized while> dressed, she was willing. I also had some amusing personal incidents concerning baptism, occasioned by the lack of understanding of our manner of performing this rite. At one place I was requested to officiate at the baptismal^ ceremony. I told them that as I had no extra clothes with me they would have to supply me some, and if they would do that, I would do the baptizing. A brother quickly replied that that would be easy — that I could just wrap a bath-towel around me. I objected to this; whereupon he offered something better — I could wind a sheet around me, and hold it with one hand and baptize with the other one. Still I objected. When he found that I required a suit of clothes, it was obtained. In another place, while traveling with Brother Ouzounian, the request was made that I do the baptizing, and as I could not speak with any one in the congregation, I requested Brother Ouzounian to ask them if they could furnish me proper clothing. They quickly informed him that they could. I instructed him to inquire further; but when they informed him that they had a special suit which they would use for this purpose, no further inquiries were made. When we arrived at the place of baptism, and the sisters had passed around to the opposite side of the hill to prepare themselves for baptism, the brethren opened a suit-case and took out that special suit. I do not know how to express my surprise on looking at it. It was made of very heavy duck, pa jama style with attached feet, and large enough for a big man. The only way to enter it was from the top. After putting it on I thought that it would fall off if I dropped my arms down, for I felt certain that the shoulder-straps would not stay up ; but the brethren assured me that it would be all right. But as I hesitated to run the risk, they found some twine, which they used in tying the shoulders of the suit together in front and behind. 340 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Dressed in this huge outfit I felt awkward indeed, but managed to get along very well until I reached the last candidate, who, being ^ tall man, was more difficult to immerse. In the effort, I leaned so :far over that the suit filled with water from the top, and the worst part of all was — it would not leak! After considerable difficulty I ifinally managed to get out on the shore, and was glad when this par- ticular service ended. Before we reached Egypt, enroute to Syria, we were not aware of any work in that country upon which we could depend as being Crowd at a Baptismal Service in Egypt altogether reliable. We had heard of Bro. G. K. Ouzounian, of Cairo, but had no way of knowing his character and reliability. But when ! we reached Alexandria a number of people who were ^ffVTJt brought out under his labors met us at the steamer, and we had meetings with them that day. When we reached Cairo and met Brother Ouzounian, we felt that he was a true man of God. He urged us to return to Egypt on a special ■evangelistic tour, therefore we determined to do so if God willed. So in the month of February, 1913, we sailed from Beirut to Alexandria, and there held services for five weeks. Brother Ouzounian was with us, and a good work was accomplished. The church there was doubled PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 341 A Personal Incident in numbers, encouraged and strengthened in the truth, and I had the privilege of baptizing sixteen in the Mediterranean Sea. Their place of worship being inadequate, another good place on First Khedivt Street was secured for a period of two years, with privilege of having it longer. We accompanied Brother Ouzounian to Cairo, where we had meet- ings for about three weeks, which also resulted in much good to the church. At the close of these meetings we had obtained sufficient ac- quaintance with the work already begun by Brother Ouzounian to know that it could be depended on as a real work of God. The work in Egypt has already begun to develop some new gospel workers, as John Lazar, of Cairo, and Mosad Armanious, of Assiout. One evening while in Cairo, my wife, Sister Ouzounian, and an- other sister were out walking, when they noticed a young man stand- ing on the street, reading what appeared to be a New Testament. Sister Ouzounian stopped and asked him what he was reading, and found that it was a Bible. He was a student in one of the colleges in Cairo, sand as he understood English well, my wife soon engaged in conversation with him. The young man was in great trouble. He was spir- itually inclined, and a believer in the Bible, but the French pro- fessors in the college were atheistical, and urged the modern the- ory of evolution upon the students in such a way that it had a ten- dency to undermine all their faith in di- vine revelation. A few days previous to this, one of his fellow students, in despair, went out to the pyramids and committed suicide. Wife arranged for him to meet me and have a long conversation on the subjects involved in his difficulties. The result was that his mind was finally cleared from many of these distressing perplexities. We gave him a copy of the book "Evolution of Christianity," hoping thus to build up his faith in the divine nature and origin of our holy religion, and he received An JIg-yptiau Street Scene 342 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Work in Boumauia so much benefit therefrom that he undertook the task of translating it into the Arabic language for the benefit of other students, and especially of Mohammedans, who reject Christianity without un- derstanding the fundamental principles upon which it is based. The following summer Brother Ouzounian and I made a special missionary trip to the Balkan States. Through the literary efforts of Brother Ouzounian, work has already been begun in Adrianople, Turkey; Gumuldjina, Turkey (now Bulgaria) ; Bucharest, Roumania, and other places. Some of these places we desired to visit, for many earnest requests had been received from them. The Balkan War having re- duced Adrianople to extrem- ity and scattered the saints there, and the railway service between Bucharest and Adri- anople being suspended, we were unable to go there at that time. Gumuldjina was also entirely cut off by the war, so that we could not even get mail through ; therefore we were barred from there also. But we were enabled to accom- plish a very good work in Bucharest, Roumania. A small work had already been begun there, and was in charge of Bro. M. G. Asian. The Lord en- abled us to do much to establish the work on the straight Bible line; in fact, the Lord really prepared the way for us in certain respects. Prior to our coming, two different individuals, would-be preachers, had come there and attempted to impose themselves on the work, but they were rejected. One night during our meetings Brother Asian's daughter-in-law came forward for healing, and God instantly healed her ; whereupon she gave testimony that one year before God gave her a vision in which two men appeared successively and at- tempted to open her eyes, but their efforts resulted in making her Native Egryptiau Woman and Baby PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 343 Complications more blind; after which two men dressed in white apparel appeared together, and the Lord said, "These are my servants, and by them the work of God will be established here." She asserted that when we came she knew that we were the last two whom she had seen in the vision. This vision occurred before we made any arrangements to go there. But we also had certain difficulties to encounter there. The first thing, the government required vaccination, and as there was no way to avoid it I had to submit. But it had a very bad effect upon me, making me sick for several days. And Roumania is not open for free religious propaganda. The Orthodox Church is in the ascendency there, and its influ- ence in the government hinders other movements. I was in- formed that the founder of the Baptist work in Bucharest was banished from the country. So we could not prosecute our work freely, and no public ad- vertising was done. One day an officer came to the home of Brother Asian, where we were stopping, and I soon inferred that he desired us, but as neither he nor Brother Asian could speak with me he was obliged to wait a few minutes until Brother Ouzounian returned from a trip down-town. When Broth- er Ouzounian arrived, he was informed that we were wanted by the government; "however," the officer said, "it is not you that we are after, but we want that Englishman" — mistaking me for one of that nation. We accompanied the officer to the government house, where we were relieved of our passports and instructed to return the next day. This we did. The leading official made numerous in-* quiries concerning me, and could scarcely be persuaded to believe that I understood English only. After a while, in answer to a tel- A Boumanian Boy 344 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS ephone call, another officer entered, whom I supposed to be the Chief of Police. These two officials consulted at length concerning me, examined a number of papers in their possession, and finally opened a large book which I could see from a distance contained the photographs of different men, each man in three positions. I un- derstood that this was a "rogue's gallery" and that they were try- ing to identify me with some of those characters. After a while we were released. Our baptismal service there was appointed for the last Sunday of the meeting. This service being public, I felt sure that if the government heard of it we would be summoned at once. On Mon- day morning we went down-town immediately, bought our tickets to Constantinople, and secured our berths on the steamer on the Black Sea; but the ship would not sail until the next day. In ac- cordance with my anticipations, another officer came for us on Mon- day afternoon; but when he was convinced that we were really going to leave the country, he made a memorandum of our tickets, time of train, date of sailing, and returned without us. There were also many other annoying things which I will not attempt to describe. The gravity of our situation on this trip in the Levant at that particular time was sometimes relieved by incidents of another na- ture. While traveling on the train between Adana Asia Minor ^^^ Tarsus, in Asia Minor, we sat in a seat facing an old Kurd from the interior. He was with a party of Moslems making a pilgrimage to Mecca, and was going to Mer- slna to take steamer by the Red Sea route. These men were heavily armed, according to the custom of the natives In those parts. They were talking Turkish, and Brother Ouzounian was constantly trans- lating to me in English their remarks. The old man had never been on a railroad train (perhaps had never seen one before), and when we started out of Adana he looked frightened, and began to ex- claim, "See! see! the mountains are running away!" His compan- ions tried to console him, assuring him that everything was all right. A little further along we passed some trees that were close to the railroad, and again he exclaimed, "The trees are running; I see them!" Again his fellow travelers quieted him. Soon we crossed a steel bridge, the sides of which came up close by the win- dows of the car. As the train dashed through this structure, the old man jumped, his eyes nearly starting from their sockets, and shouted, "What was that?" "That was a bridge," said his com- panions. "Well, It went," said he, with a sigh of relief; and they PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 34.5 laughingly replied, "Yes, it went." Said Brother Ouzounian, "About the only thing these poor, ignorant fellows know is to fight and kill men." The foregoing is a good example of the ignorance that prevails in the interior of the country. As ignorance is the mother of super- In t ti stition, we have an explanation of the widespread practises o f divination, incantation, fortune-telling and similar fooleries prevalent in the East. Impostors of this sort are numerous. We saw them making rude diagrams in the sand, meanwhile muttering cabalistic adjurations. By this and other methods they profess to be able to locate stolen goods, discover thieves, etc. This reminds me of an amusing incident related by Dr. Thomson. One of these conjuring impostors, who had acquired considerable reputation in his line, became a Protestant, and re- Discovering a nounced his former practises. This man was wont to relate some of his former experiences in that profes- sion. "Once he was returning home through the Huleh, and fotiiid a poor woman at a mill on the upper Jordan beating herself in de- spair because some one had stolen her meal-bag. There were Arab tents not far off, as Arabs are professional thieves, he suspected that one of them had the missing bag. Calling them all before him, he told them his suspicion, and declared that he had an infallible test by which to detect the thief, and to it they must submit, or he would lodge a complaint against them with the governor. They all stoutly denied the charge, and offered to submit to his test. He then cut bits of straw, equal in number to that of the Arabs, all of the same length, and kept the measure himself, giving a bit to each of them. 'Now,' said he, in his most imposing manner, 'keep these bits till the morning each one hy himself; then bring them to me, and I will measure them ; if any one of you has the bag, his stick will have grown longer hy so much' Of course, each hid his splinter in his bosom, and in the morning one was found as much too short as he said it would grow while in the possession of the thief. The credulous ras- cal, not doubting but that it would actually grow, had broken off just the length which he supposed had been added during the night. When thus detected, he confessed the theft, and restored the poor woman her bag." * After Brother Ouzounian and I returned from our missionary * "The Land and the Book," p. 220. 346 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Trip to Cyprus trip in the Balkans we made a trip to the near-by island of Cyprus. We were accompanied by my wife and son, Gerald. The island is one of the largest in the Mediterranean, and its history is lost in remote antiquity. When Paul and Barnabas left Antioch on their first missionary tour their first stop was in Cyprus (Acts 13:4). They preached at Salamis, and then journeyed through the island to Paphos, on the southwest coast, where judgment was pronounced on Elymas the sorcerer. We landed at Larnaca, and pro- ceeded by carriage to Nicosia, the cap- ital, situated in the interior of the island. Here we met Brother Brousilian, a faithful brother in the Lord. Our objective point was Kyr e n i a , on the north coast. When we reached Nico- sia, however, we found a letter from Kyrenia warning us not to come there, as the Greeks would stone us. Brother Ouzounian preached in this place a few years before, and the turbulent Greeks raised a great persecu- tion and attempted to kill him. After praying over the matter we decided to go, and we had some interesting and profitable services there, and were not injured either. Some boys on the street threw stones at Brother Brousilian and reproached him for bringing the missionaries there. Here we formed an acquaintance with some able brethren whom we trust will be much used of God in the future in establishing his true work in Cyprus. The Greek judge of that dis- trict, having read the "Revelation Explained," and "Evolution of Christianity," given him by Brother Ouzounian on the former visit, was desirous of seeing me. He enjoyed the meetings very much. We returned to Nicosia, where we held a few services, then leav- ing Brother Ouzounian to continue the meetings for a while before sailing direct to Egypt, we returned to our home near Beirut. We had some definite answers to prayer while in Cyprus. At that Kyrenia, Cyprus PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 347 Answers to Prayer time we were all very short of means. We made our request known unto God and he marvelously supplied us with a suf- ficient amount for our present need, even laying it upon the hearts of some who did not receive much of our teaching to give us of their means. But what appeared to us to be the most wonderful was the heal- ing of little Gerald. When wife and I left Nicosia we came by car- riage to Larnaca, expecting to sail the same day. When we arrived, we found that the steamer was one day late, so we went to a hotel. Next morning Gerald was broken out with something that appeared worse than the measles, huge, red blotches having raised up over his body; and it showed so plainly on his face that we feared we should not be permitted to embark on the ship, as they are very strict in, regard to receiving diseased persons. To be rejected would be a calamity to us, for at that time of the year the sailings direct to Beirut took place only monthly, and our money was altogether tool little to admit of such delay; in fact, we only had a little more than €nough to pay our fares to Beirut. We prayed earnestly. When I went to the offices to buy our tickets I would not permit Gerald to accompany me, lest they refuse to issue passage for us ; but when I returned with the tickets Gerald's face was already cleared up and white. Praise the Lord! We had no difficulty whatever in embarking. But that night on the steamer he was again taken very bad, but being in a stateroom by ourselves, no one knew of the trouble. There we laid hold on God, and rebuked the affliction in the name of the Lord Je- sus, and Gerald was completely healed. How thankful we were ! When we arrived in Beirut we were permitted to land without any trouble, for the disease was gone, and never returned afterwards. "Bless the Lord, O my soul ; and all that is within me, bless his holy name. Bless the Lord, O my soul, and forget not all his benefits: who forgiveth ■■ss SO* IHB wr-' 1 pl 1 v^^ fe ft™ 1 1 K H mk 1 1 1 M m Movmtaiu Castle of St. Hilariou 348 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS all thine iniquities; who healeth all thy diseases" (Psa. 103:1-3). In ^11 our travels God graciously protected us from serious in- jury by accident or otherwise. The most dangerous trouble of that kind occurred while we were at Shweifat. One day Gerald and I made a trip to Beirut. On the return at night our carriage started late, and soon it was very dark. The carriage-driver was very reckless, and was drink- ing. He would run his horses at a frightful speed, then stop along the way, at intervals, and go into some little shop and drink again. A Dangerous Accident At that time I could not speak Arabic well enough to remonstrate with him. Entering the Lebanon, the country is mountainous, and the carriage-road winds around the slopes, being built up on the hillsides, in some places sustained by perpendicular walls. Gerald and I occupied the rear seat of the carriage, but Gerald was fast asleep. As we were rounding a curve in the road on the hillside, the horses traveling at a high rate of speed, the outside horse, being unable to keep up, was crowded close to the edge and, seeing its danger, made an effort to stop, but the other horse continued; this act plunged them directly forward over the precipice. The moment I realized that the horses were go- ing over, I grasped Gerald with one hand and made one leap out into the darkness. I landed at a point about fifteen or twenty feet below the road, and Gerald passed on over me and struck a few feet further down. Alarmed at such a rude awakening, the little fellow cried PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 349 loudly. I felt my way to him as quickly as possible. The carriage went on down to the bottom of the ravine, and, turning upside down, smashed itself on the rocks. My lips were cut, hand and wrist bleed- ing, and back bruised slightly, but I knew at once that I was not badly hurt. Gerald was not injured at all. Some people came with a light and helped us up, and we reached home an hour later. Next day we went to view the scene of the wreck, and then I was made more conscious than ever of God's preserving and protecting care. Had the carriage proceeded four or five rods further before the accident, it would have fallen over a perpendicular wall built up from the valley below. The particular place where we struck down below was the very best spot there — the only one free from stones. And had I I^ebanon I^aborexs Betuminir sprung from the side of the carriage on which I sat, instead of from* the opposite side, I would have landed directly on a large rock below. The Lebanon is sometimes disturbed by threatened armed con- flicts between the Christians and the Druses. In the past this has; sometimes ripened into civil war. The worse conflict: Disturbances °^ ^^^^ kind took place in 1860, at which time many thousands of the Christians were slain by the Druses. Ordinarily they live side by side peaceably, but any unusual occur- rence is liable to occasion a sudden uprising. Feuds are of frequent occurrence, and trouble between individual Christians and Druses is sometimes taken up and agitated by others 350 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS of their number* Thus in the summer of 1913 a number of private quarrels and some bloodshed occurred, and this led to quite an agita- tion. Just before our removal for the summer to the village of Suke- el-Gharb a Druse was killed by a Christian, and the Druses, think- ing that the murderer was being secluded there, marched on the village with a force numbering perhaps five hundred. The Christians were ready to defend themselves by armed conflict, but the British Vice- Consul happened to be in the village that day, and he and other in- fluential men exerted themselves to preserve peace, and their efforts were successful. Other threatened outbreaks were also avoided with- out serious trouble. And this leads me to speak of that terrible practise prevalent in the East, known as blood- revenge. According to this cruel custom, Blood-Revenge ^^ *^^ real murderer can not be reached the avengers of blood have a right to kill any other member of his family; and when they can not be easily reached, any other per- son of his religion will do. This wretched, barbarous practise is con- tinued by Christians (?), as well as other classes; in fact, such re- taliatory acts are of constant recurrence between the Christians and Druses. While we were living in Shweifat, some of this blood-revenge was carried out. Previously a Druse had killed a Christian, and it was known, of course, that revenge would be sought, and that some Druse would have to die. This very uncertainty of whom the victim will be fills the inhabitants with terror. And when the avengers kill some one outside of the family of the murderer, they usually select one of the very best men that they can find, so as to make the effect all the more terrible and shocking. In the case referred to, a young Druse man of good reputation, who lived just across the valley and in sight of our house in Shweifat, was returning from his place of business in Beirut, when his carriage was stopped by some Christians (.?), who first engaged him in conversation, and then shot him five times, and fled. The carriage-driver (also a Druse) rushed him home, but he died shortly after he was carried into the house. It was pitiful to listen to the wailing of his sorrowing relatives. This poor victim had no possible implication with the original murder — ^but he was a Druse, and that was sufficient for the avengers of blood. How terrible! But I will turn from such scenes of tragedy to the more agreeable subject of God's own work. I will mention two cases among the number of those who were divinely healed while we were living in Shweifat. One was the case of a young girl who was a student in the PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 351 Two Cases of Healing school. She had a peculiar affliction, the cause and nature of which doctors were unable to determine. Each year when the cooler weather of winter was felt one arm and hand would swell, turn black, and remain in that condition, entirely helpless, during the rest of the winter. The same thing oc- curred again while we were there, but when the other hand and arm began to show signs of swelling also, some alarm was felt. We talked with her and found that she had real faith in Jesus, there- fore a little company of us met together, and we anointed and prayed for her, and before we removed our hands from her the swelling began to diminish, and she was entirely healed. The next time I saw her she was playing a- m o n g the other schoolgirls, using her arm and hand freely. The other case was the mother of one of the young sisters, whose name was Selma, and stands connected with Selma's earnest desire to be baptized. I have already mentioned the opposition to baptism among the people. One day Selma and some of the other girls came to our home, and she re- quested us to pray for the Lord to open the way for her baptism; so we knelt and asked God to soften the heart of the mother and cause her to give her consent. A day or so later the mother met with an accident in which her ankle was severely injured. Some of the sisters visited her and had prayer, then some of the rest of us also went, and the mother asserted her belief in God's willingness to heal her. And although her mind was darkened in regard to spiritual truth, we felt led to pray, and the Lord healed her. In accordance ^ %= m _^ \ ,^^ * ^-^P^., .-^ ^BLa^^T^ V* 7 •- ;" ■ -'"^'^^^^i^->> MH^r^; m^BIl' ^P^^^^^H^Hk ^^^K^K^^JP- ^..J fc^^'^^r ->^^ r^^ ">.*■,:;■•:' ■.'' '''■•■.-^''' -W -'joMittL'.. j1mB|HB| A Common Burden-Bearer 352 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS with the Oriental conception of God's direct control and authorship of every event, Selma said, "Mama, God has punished you because you would not allow me to be baptized; now if you hinder me, he will punish you more." Finally her mother said, "Then go and be baptized." When we came forth from the water Selma was su- premely happy. Toward the close of the year 1913 we were rejoiced to welcome the coming from America of Sister Nellie Laughlin, who also began her work by teaching in the same school with Sister Bessie Hittle. But within a few months from this time these sisters began to feel clearly that the Lord would have them withdraw from the school work Typical Lebanon Villag'e at the end of the school year, that they might be free to give them- selves entirely to true missionary work — the preaching and teaching of the pure gospel. Our intended departure in the Shweifat spring, and the urgency of spiritual work made this decision imperative. Already opportunities for work were opening before us in other villages near by, and the local work also required shepherding, that the dear souls who had already been won to the truth might not be neglected. Therefore arrangements PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 353 Tour Mission Workers in Mount Lebanon (From left to right: Bessie L. Hittle, ZaMa Aswad, Nellie S. Iiaughlin, Adele Y. Jureidini) 354 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS were made for the two sisters to move into the house which we occu- pied and to continue the meetings there after we left. Our local work in Shweifat also received strong support from some native workers whom the Lord raised up. Among the number 2^g^2L ^^^ Sister Zahia Aswad. This sister was also a teacher in the school. Shortly after the arrival of Sisters Hittle and Tasker she became convicted of her sins and sought for forgiveness ; and after our arrival she was sanctified wholly and embraced the full truth. She became one of our most effective trans- lators, and soon the Lord called her to the ministry of his Word. She bears every evidence of being well settled in the truth, and she is full of zeal and earnestness for the spread of the pure gospel among her own people. Her home, however, is in Brummana, a village higher up in the Lebanon. We are trusting that God will make her efficient in establishing his true work in her own village. Another capable and effective spiritual worker is Sister Adele Jureidini. When she first began coming to our meetings she was Adele religious, of course, for all are more or less religious. But where people are thus strongly religious and ap- parently satisfied in their present condition, it is necessary to use considerable wisdom in approaching them on salvation subjects; for if we address them in such a way as to imply that their religion is nothing and that they are lost sinners, we are liable to cause grievous offense. One lady named Fanny had already opened her heart to my wife and confessed that she was not saved, and asked for prayers, so we felt that the way was now clear for us to labor freely with her. At our next altar-service a number of people, including Sister Adele, came forward. This was the time already referred to when so many came and prayed indefinitely, hardly knowing just what they needed. Not being well acquainted with either one at that time I mistook Adele for Fanny, and as I could labor at the altar with only those who understood English I began talking to her in a clear, defi- nite way. I impressed upon her the fact that she was lost; that if she died in this condition she would go to destruction ; and I in- structed her to get hold of God as a poor, lost sinner, and seek for his salvation. She took the advice and began praying to that end. A little later I was surprised to discover that she was not the per- son I thought she was. Months later I told her about my confusion of persons on that occasion, and she replied that if I was mistaken in her identity, I was not mistaken in her need. PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 355 After Sister Adele was saved and sanctified she also became one of our regular translators. As the truth of God dawned upon her heart she accepted it, and God also called her to the ministry, and she is very effective in preaching the gospel in Arabic. Though rather frail in body, she is strong in spirit, and is a real inspiration to the work. Adele's father was a Protestant preacher, but he died some years ago. Her mother is stiU living in Shweifat, and she bears an excellent reputation in the village. She also became interested J *(rfdlnl ^^ °^^ meetings and the truth took hold upon her soul. She saw that the baptism of adults was the true Bible standard, but for a long time she hesitated in regard to obeying it. The idea of a woman being baptized when she was old was about as strange to her, and to the people there, as the doctrine of a new birth for an old man was to Nicodemus. But one day while I was preaching on obedience, and reading Matthew 7 : 21-27, she arose in the congregation and began talking rapidly in Arabic to this effect: "I have been a Christian for many years, but there is one commandment of the Lord that I have never obeyed, and I see that if I am not obedient I will be left outside of heaven — I have never been baptized. I want you girls to go and tell your parents that I am going to be baptized, and for them to allow you to be baptized too." Our hearts rejoiced to see such an influential person take an open stand for the truth! "Buried with him in immersion, How sacred to sink 'neath the wave; We witness a pure testimony. When low 'red in the symbolic grave. "I bid the world a last farewell. No more in sin I'll ever dwell; Joined to the Lord like saints of yore, Never to part, no, nevermore." MISSIONARY METHODS MISSIONARY METHODS Christianity is universal in its nature, and the whole world spread out before us is the field of our evangelizing efforts ; therefore the sub- ject of missionary methods is of prime importance and well deserves careful consideration. Our object is to plant the pure gospel in every country, and to encourage its early growth there until it will finally perpetuate itself. How can this result be accomplished? The most successful missionary that the Christian church has produced was St. Paul. For some time after his conversion he did not venture out very far in the work; but after he Ideal ^ ^^^ gained sufficient experience by laboring in con- Missionary junction with other ministers of Christ, at Antioch and other places, the Holy Ghost said, "Separate me Barnabas and Saul for the work whereunto I have called them" (Acts 13: 2). He then entered upon his first missionary tour. So remarkable was the success of the apostle Paul that within a few years he had planted the gospel in Galatia, Asia, Macedonia and Achaia — four provinces of the Roman Empire; and so firmly had this work been established that he could write to the Romans that "from Jerusalem, and round about unto Illyricum, I have fully preached the gospel of Christ," and that he had "no more place in these parts" (Rom. 15:19, 23). That the call of Paul as the "apostle of the Gentiles" was special, and that he himself was a special man in many respects — ^possessing superior qualifications and abilities — we freely admit; but the fact that he was thus called and qualified does not prevent our attempting to approach him as nearly as possible in spirit, message, and methods. "Be ye followers of me, even as I also am of Christ," was his injunc- tion to the Corinthians; and we feel disposed to follow in the steps of one whose life was crowned with such brilliant success under the direct leadership and inspiration of the Holy Spirit. Of late the attention of the religious world has been directed par- ticularly to a study of the missionary methods of St. Paul ; and to these 359 360 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS particular methods, in a great measure, is attributed his remarkable success, in contrast with the failure of modern missionaries, who have varied from these methods. But methods, however Methods and jji-v-i j. iu-i- Message grand and desirable, are not some sort oi quickemng, vivifying force, though they may be the storage-bat- teries containing the pent-up energy, and the medium through which it operates. The form must be carefully distinguished from the life. I feel certain that the real secret of Paul's success — the cause that produced these wonders — is to be found in the character of his mes- sage and its being accompanied by the mighty power of God. The method of his operation was largely the natural result of the nature of his calling and message. Modern missions have varied as far from the apostle Paul in the character of their message and work as they have from his methods. Imagine, if you can, the apostle Paul — called to evangelize the world and burdened with a message for the lost — settling down to spend his life as a financial agent, constructing large buildings, superintending boarding- and day-schools for the instruction of children in rudi- mentary education, managing the affairs of a hospital; the whole accompanied with a few formal prayers and an occasional preaching service accommodated to the prejudices of a mixed class of Jews, Druses, Mohammedans, Maronites, Greek Orthodox, etc. ! Paul did not construct buildings: he went and preached in the synagogues that were already built; and when he was rejected there, he entered other buildings. He did not attempt to educate children, nor even adults: he went to those centers of Greek culture and education where were to be found large numbers of people who were already fit- ted to receive the pure gospel. And that apostle who healed the im- potent man at Lystra, raised from his sick-bed the father of Publius, restored to life Eutychus, and whose mission was everywhere at- tested with "signs, and wonders, and mighty deeds" — that missionary had little personal use for a hospital. Paul did not frown upon those things which naturally prepared the way for the reception of the gospel, but such things were not a part of his calling as a missionary and as an apostle of the Lord Jesus Christ. He was wont to pray that a "door of opportunity" might be opened for his work, and it was open doors that he entered. When we examine the character of Paul's teaching, we shall un- derstand better his methods. In the first place, we observe in him a straightforward, steadfast purpose, inspired by a consciousness of the truth of his message. For this reason he could say, "I am not MISSIONARY METHODS 361 ashamed of the gospel of Christ: for it is the power of God unto sal- vation to every one that believeth; to the Jew first, and also to the Greek" (Rom. 1:16). He knew that his message Consciousness contained the only hope of salvation for men, and he of His Message therefore labored with the express object of convert- ing men and women. And although his message was a stumbling-block to the Jews and foolishness to the Greeks, his con- fidence in it was unbounded. "For the preaching of the cross is to them that perish foolishness ; but unto us which are saved it is the power of God" (1 Cor. 1:18). If we believe and accept the Word of God as it is, there is nothing to hinder us from going forth to- day inspired with the same consciousness of the truth of our mes- sage. Paul had a definite conviction of his calling from God to the work in which he engaged. He declared himself to be "an apostle, not of men, neither by man, but by Jesus Christ" (Gal. 1:1). Realization of 4ii • cii j> ^ • -i ^ Divine And he was conscious oi the source irom which he Authority received this gospel; for he says, "I certify you, brethren, that the gospel which was preached of me is not after man. For I neither received it of man, neither was 5 taught it, but by the revelation of Jesus Christ" (Gal. 1:11, 12). "For I have received of the Lord that which also I delivered untd you" (1 Cor. 11:23). The account of Paul's conversion and call to the ministry is re- corded three times in the Acts (twice as related by himself when on trial). Before Agrippa he proclaimed, in language unmistakable, the reality of his divine call to the Gentiles. He related there that when the Lord appeared to him on the Damascus road he cried out, "Who art thou. Lord?" and that the reply was: "I am Jesus whom thou per- secutest. But rise, and stand upon thy feet : for I have appeared unto thee for this purpose, to make thee a minister and a witness both of' these things which thou hast seen, and of those things in the which I will appear unto thee ; delivering thee from the people, and from the Gentiles, unto whom now I send thee, to open their eyes, and to turn them from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan unto God, that they may receive forgiveness of sins, and inheritance among them which are sanctified by faith that is in me" (Acts 26: 15-18). The Pauline doctrine was definite and radical. He made no ef- fort to win the favor of the masses by flattery or by compromise. He did not represent the pagan nations as being children of God merely with imperfect forms of worship ; hence his effort was not to 362 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Hi O o .4 I MISSIONARY METHODS 363 "trim the dimly glowing lamp of God in the heathen temple." On the other hand, he said, "The things which the Gen- Definlteness in ^^^^ sacrifice, they sacrifice to devils" (1 Cor. 10:20). Teaching He did not recognize so much of good in all men as to prescribe for their need a mere improvement secured by gradual evolution to a little higher type. Paul's doctrine was that on account of their sins all men are lost — that "all have sinned, and come short of the glory of God." He declared to the Romans that even those Gentiles who have not the written, revealed law have nevertheless God's law written in their hearts sufficiently to fix moral responsibility (Rom. 2:14, 15), and that the Jews, notwithstanding their objective revelation, had also sinned against God, and he quoted their own Scriptures to sustain his charge. He then summed up his argument in the words, "We have before proved both Jews and Gentiles, that they are all under sin" (Rom. 3:9). Upon this conclusion he predicated his doctrine that the only hope for the world was to be found in Jesus Christ. The entire world is lost in sin; salvation is in Christ alone. All men are in a state of spiritual death; there must be a new birth, a quickening into divine life, and this life is to be found only in God's Son. In setting forth the exclusive way of Christ, the apostle exercised divine wisdom, but this did not detract from the clearness and definite- ness of his teaching. When the city of Ephesus was CompromlS^"^ convulsed in a mighty uproar occasioned by Paul's preaching, the town clerk stated that Paul had not blasphemed their goddess (Acts 19:37). But though the apostle carefully refrained from railing on their religion, he was also care- ful to set for 111 llic tiuth so clearly and positively that it would make a distinct line of cleavage between the way of idolatry and the way of Christ: it was this that caused the tumult. When the acceptance of the truth found outward expression in deeds, insomuch that a bon- fire was made of the books on incantation and magic, the hearers knew full well that Paul's declaration that there was only one true and living God meant the rejection of Diana. Paul msde no effort to avoid this issue. So also at Athens. Standing on Mar's Hill within sight of the greatest temples of idolatry, the apostle displayed remarkable tact and wisdom in pointing out the altar inscribed To the Unknown God, and making this God the subject of his remarks — thus avoiding the charge of introducing a new deity. But he made no attempt to conceal or ve>l the actual truth: his message was clear and the issue 364 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS inevitable. He plainly showed that the systems of idolatry were inefficient and that salvation is to be obtained only through that "unknown God," who had revealed himself to the world through Jesus Christ. The definiteness of Paul's general teaching becomes even more apparent when considered in its relation to his well-defined doctrine of the wrath of God. His preaching was not of a The 'Wtath . . . Qf qq^ mere advisory nature — not simply a setting-forth of something which was in his opinion desirable because better than his hearers' attainments: his preaching was authoritative; the message which he delivered was the message of God. To reject that message meant to reject God and to be in the end rejected byi God. "For the wrath of God is revealed from heaven against all un- A Syrian Tlireshiug'-Floor godliness and unrighteousness of men, who hold the truth in unright- eousness" (Rom. 1:18). "The Lord Jesus shall be revealed fromi heaven with his mighty angels, in flaming fire talcing vengeance on them that know not God, and that obey not the gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ : who shall be punished with everlasting destruction from the- presence of the Lord, and from the glory of his power" (2 Thess.. 1 : 7-9) I The nature of Paul's message, as I have just set forth, necessi- tated moral choice and action on the part of the hearers. The issue- was ever clear before them, and they were made to- and Action realize that the way of truth set before them was the- way of life. It is evident that he so presented the- gospel as to demand their decision either for or against it; and when they rejected his message, he rejected them. He did not simply leave MISSIONARY METHODS 365 them, but he openly rejected them, and thus kept a clear line of dis- tinction between those who accepted the truth and those who refused it. When the Jews at Antioch in Pisidia, "spake against those things which were spoken by Paul, contradicting and blaspheming," thfe apostle waxed bold and said, "It was necessary that the word of God should first have been spoken to you: but seeing you put it from you, and judge yourselves unworthy of everlasting life, lo, we turn to the Gentiles" (Acts 13:45, 46). So also at Corinth. "When they opposed themselves and blas- phemed, he shook his raiment, and said unto them. Your blood be upon your own heads ; I am clean : from henceforth I will go unto the Gentiles" (Acts 18:6). Rejection was always a possibility. The apostle's conduct on such occasions was determined by the nature of the message itself. He could not go on teaching truth which required moral decision and action to those who had already rejected it. He was ready to do as Christ instructed the disciples, "Shake off the dust of your feet, and go unto another city." "But when divers were hardened, and believed not, but spake evil of that way before the multitude, he departed from them, and separated the disciples, disputing daily in the school of one Tyrannus" (Acts 19:9). The same gospel presented clearly today requires the same moral decision; and when people refuse to act on the teaching, we should turn to those who e^e ready to receive it. If we continue year after year to preach to those who constantly refuse to act upon it, we 'be- come mere instructors of the intellect. The gospel demands moral response, and we must demand it. The result of Paul's teaching was the separation from the world of a society of men and women whose hearts responded to the truth. And this was the object. Paul did not talk vaguely Cliurcli' A about civilizing the whole race and Christianizing the Special People world; but he believed, as did Peter, that God "did visit the Gentiles to take out of them a people for his name" (Acts 15:14). This company of called-out ones was the body of Christ, his church, a peculiar treasure, a special people. Membership in this society was not offered on easy terms, but could be secured only by such a moral response to the truth as would lead to the rejection of the old life, and a willingness to labor and suffer for Christ. Nor was Paul's teaching merely individualistic ; it was social. He 366 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS did not represent himself as an isolated minister, but as an apostle of the church of God, a fellow laborer with others. According to his teaching, the individual believer who is united with Christ becomes by virtue of this union an actual member of a composite body of Christians, with whom he is united by spiritual ties as definitely as to the Lord himself. Paul held and taught the visible unity of all be- lievers in Christ. "Now therefore ye are no more strangers and for- eigners, but fellow citizens with the saints, and of the household of God; and are built upon the foundation of the apostles and proph- ets, Jesus Christ himself being the chief corner-stone; in whom all the building fitly framed together groweth unto an holy temple in the Lord: in whom ye also are huilded together for an habitation of God through the Spirit" (Eph. 2: 19-22). The message of Paul was attested by the manifesta- tion of divine pow- er. Through the preaching of the gospel "the power of God unto salva- tion" was continu- ally manifested in the transformation of men and women from a life of sin to holiness. But this is not all. At Iconium "the Lord gave testimony unto the word of his grace, and granted signs and wonders to be done by their hands" (Acts 14: 3). of Divine ^^ Ephesus God "wrought special miracles by the Power hands of Paul," so that within two years "all thej' which dwelt in Asia heard the word of the Lord «Te- sus" (Acts 19:9, 10). It was not Paul's presence and personal in- fluence alone that won his point in the Jerusalem council, but the declaration of the "miracles and wonders" that God had wrought by him among the Gentiles (Acts 15:12). Again, as proof of the reliability of his preaching, in contrast with the doctrine of Judaiz- ing teachers, Paul directs the Galatians to a consideration of the "miracles" which he had wrought among them by the Spirit of God (Gal. 3:5). And among the Corinthians "signs, and wonders, and Pyramid at Sakkara, Egrypt MISSIONARY METHODS 367 mighty deeds" occurred (2 Cor. 12:12). One of his mighty works was the casting out of devils. With an understanding of the nature of Paul's message and work we are prepared to understand in a great measure the secret of his extraordinary success. The manifestations of God's Zeal and power attracted hearers and attested the truth and authority of his message. The definiteness of his teaching and the demand of moral response brought out a clear, dis- tinctive people, who, being fully convinced of the divine nature of the work, were ready to devote their entire energies to the propaga- tion of that gospel which alone can save men. Thus, the apostle was not isolated in his efforts, but was supported and assisted by numer- ous brethren. Napoleon's success in war was largely due to the fact that his hands were upheld by a score of marshals scarcely less dis- tinguished than himself. So also Paul's great success in the gospel was not due merely to nicely arranged "methods," nor to his person- ality and qualifications alone, but to the divine life of the move- ment of which he formeid only a leading part. We are now better able to understand the methods of the apos- tle Paul; for, as I have already stated, the methods that he pur- sued were largely the natural result of the character ^thods °^ ^^^ message. Except in a few instances I can not see how his course could have been essentially differ- ent from what it was. His definite preaching produced certain re- sults and brought out a special people, who required spiritual care and oversight, and this determined his relationship with the body of believers ; so that force of circumstances naturally suggested some of the methods which he employed. Nevertheless, in some things there is unmistakable evidence of clear, deliberate foresight and plan. Roland Allen has shown that Paul evidently made a deliberate choice of certain strategic points for the establishment of the gos- Strateglc Points P^l'* ^^ *^^ ^^«* P^^^^' ^^ confined his labors to those countries whose government was administered by the Romans. This afforded him, a Roman citizen, a degree of freedom and security not otherwise possible, and also gave the churches whatever advantages were to be had under a strong government. "But he did not only seek Roman protection. He found under the Roman Government something more than peace and security of travel. He found not only toleration and an open field for his preaching, there was *Missionary Methods; St. Paul's or Ours? p. 15. Under this heading I have closely followed Mr. Allen. 368 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS also in the mere presence of Roman officials an influence which materially assisted his work. The idea of the world-wide empire which they repre- sented, the idea of the common citizenship of men of many differ- ent races in that one empire, the strong authority of the one law, the one peace, the breaking down of national exclusiveness, all these things prepared men's minds to receive St. Paul's teaching of the king- dom of Christ, and of the common citizenship of all Christians in it." The places where Paul labored were centers of Greek civilization. The Greeks were a people remarkable for their learning, and, al- though they had been subdued politically by the strong arm of Rome, their intellects liad not been bound, so that, as some one has said, the mighty genius of Greece "captured, led captive her captor." The influ- ence of Greek civi- lization fostered a general diffusion of knowledge through- out the Roman Em- pire. In those days even Tarsus, in Asia Minor, was famous for its schools, and Alexandria and Antioch, Ephesus and Thessalonica, as well as Athens and Corinth, were centers of Greek influence aiid education. Greek was the common medium of communication everywhere, and the apostle, preaching in Greek and writing in Greek, could reach the masses of people, especially in those cities that were strongly influenced by Grecian civilization. In such places the apostle found thousands of people whose minds were already sufficiently opened to give him access with the gospel to their under- standing. I am satisfied that he deliberately selected these places on account of their offering superior access to the people. But in entering these cities Paul always went first to the Jewish synagogues and there began his work. The Jews were everywhere. "For Moses of old time hath in every city them that preach him, being read in the synagogues every Sabbath-day" (Acts 15: 21). There was also an advantage in beginning with the Jews. Under the Roman Gov- ernment the Jews enjoyed peculiar advantages, freedom of religion, and Obelisk at Heliopolis, Eg'ypt MISSIONARY METHODS 369 the administration of their own law. Paul came among them as a Jew. As the gospel stands rooted in the Jewish Scriptures, Paul had here a tremendous advantage in introducing the gospel, by having before him a class of people who were familiar with the texts which he used. And even when he was rejected by the synagogue, there was this advantage: that his work thus stood out clearly and distinctively as being separate from Judaism, not bound by its exclusiveness, but universal. But as the Jews had the Scriptures, they were, or should have been, the best prepared to receive that gospel which is built upon them; therefore it was consistent that the offers of salvation should be presented to them first. I refer to these facts to show that Paul deliberately sought for, and took advantage of, those favorable conditions which religious training and secular education had provided as if for the reception of his gospel. Paul's object in each case was the evangelization of the province, but in order to accomplish this he endeavored to plant the gospel in a few chief cities of that province. In evangelizing them he evangelized the province, for these places were designed to be centers of spiritual light and influence from which the work might spread. Says Allen: "We have often heard in modern days of concentrated missions at great centers. We have often heard of the importance of seizing strategic points. But there is a difference between our seizing of strategic centers and Paul's. To seize a strategic center we need not only a mail capable of recognizing it, but a man capable of seizing it. Most of the people who walk into London are lost in the crowd. A great center may be a swamp which absorbs, as well as a source from which flows life-giving power to all the country round. "And the seizing of strategic points implies a strategy. It is part of a plan of attack upon the whole country. Concentrated missions at strategic centers, if they are to win the province, must be centers of evangelistic life. In great cities are great prisons as well as great rail- way stations. Concentrated missions may mean concentrated essence of authority or concentrated essence of liberty. A concentrated mis- sion may be a great prison or a great market. It may be la safe in which all the best intellect of the day is shut up,, or it may be a mint from which the coin of new thought is put into circulation. A great many of our best men are locked up in strategic centers. If once they get in they find it hard to get out." Another noticeable feature of Paul's system, and one that in no small degree contributed directly to his great success, was the practise of what we today would term the evangelistic method of establishing churches. No church that Paul raised up could get the idea that he Was 370 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS building up a work for his own benefit. They knew that he could not b« localized. I. suppose that any one of these local churches could have retained Paul permanently to their advantage; Method ^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ settled down thus to work, he would have lived and died in comparative obscurity, and a large measure of his success would have been lost. Paul attempted to make the new converts feel that the gospel which he preached was theirs, and that in accepting its benefits they also ac- cepted its responsibilities, became obligated to perpetuate their own work and spread it to others. This attitude toward them encouraged the development of local workers, and as soon as the new converts became sufficiently settled to be trusted, the apostle stepped aside and gave room for their development. This is an important point. The presence of able men — leaders of thought and action — tends to prevent others from developing and realizing themselves. This has been con- firmed by my own observation. I have known men of great talents to settle down as local pastors and while thus engaged not to raise up a single effective minister; whereas, on the other hand, some men of less ability have made remarkable records in the number of able ministers whom they have raised up. The reason for this is clear: the first be- came centers around which everything revolved, while the latter merely made their presence felt long enough to fix responsibility and then made room for others. Any man whom God can use in raising up new con- gregations can soon establish one such church that will occupy the rest of his life in caring for it himself; whereas the same man, working ac- cording to the Pauline method, can easily raise up many such churches and have them all well cared for by those who can not do the work that he can do. And this introduces another point. When Paul established new churches and then went away, he did not forsake them entirely, but continued to exercise a general oversight of them. For this reason, in enumerating the various Oversiglit things that weighed upon his spirit, he mentioned the daily "care of all the churches" (2 Cor. 11 : 28). When- ever possible he visited these churches occasionally, or he engaged some one else to look after certain matters connected with them; as, for example, Titus in Crete (Tit. 1:5), and Timothy at Ephesus (1 Tim. 1:3). And he also wrote epistles to them when occasion demanded such. But the chief point in the apostle's methods which I wish to im- press as one secret of his marvelous success, is the fact that in rais- ing up a congregation, even among the heathen, he so labored arid MISSIONARY METHODS 371 fixed responsibility upon others that in a very short time he could release himself from its ordinary ministrations and be free to plant the truth in other cities. The great church at Ephesus, the center of spiritual light from which "all they which dwelt in Asia heard the word of the Lord Je- sus," was only two years old when Paul left it ; yet four months later, when the apostle was passing near that city and halted at Miletus, there were in Ephesus a number of elders whom the Holy Ghost had made overseers. Doubtless these elders were raised up and set in their position while the apostle was with them; but as they were young in experi- ence, he summoned them to meet him at Miletus, that he might impart some further instruc- tions, advice, and warnings (Acts 20). That the apos- tle's method in re- gard to the finan- cial affairs of the churches was alto- g e t h e r different from the practises of modern times on the mission fields , can , be easily shown by the Scriptures. Without burdening System ^^^ reader with a vast array of texts support- ing my statements, I , will simply refer to cer-; tain well-known facts. In the first place, the apostle did not enter the ministry as a, profession, in order to make a living, but he had a definite call from God; therefore he says, "Necessity is laid upon me; yea, woe is unto me, if I preach not the -gospel" (1 Cor. 9:16). Under certain cir- cumstances and in certain places, as at Corinth, Paul labored with his own hands to support himself while preaching, but he afterwards confessed to the Corinthians that, in this he did wrong, for by bear- ing his own expenses he failed to teach and develop the church along one of its distinct lines of duty (2 Cor. 12:13); and by letter he made known to them God's own appointed way for the support of his ministers (1 Cor. 9:7-14). Paul did receive gifts from his con- EETTptian Water-Carriers 372 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS verts, and he praised the Philippians because they 'sent once and again unto his necessity' (Phil. 4:15, 16); and he informed the Corinthians that while he was wronging them by not teaching them their duty towards him he "robbed other churches, taking wages of them," to do the Corinthians service (2 Cor. 11:8). But whatever financial help churches sent to Paul to assist him while he was laboring to raise up other churches, it is evident from the Scriptures that the churches were themselves independence financially independent. Each church, or province at least, were instructed to support its preachers arid to remember its poor; but with the single exception of the general effort made to raise money for the relief of the poor saints at Jerusalem, "there is not a hint from beginning to end of the Acts and Epistles of any one church depending upon another." That exception was evidently a special occasion, and no part of the reg- ular financial plans of the church. The study of apostolic methods of finances leads me to a con- sideration of present-day methods of financing and conducting mis- sionary work. And lest I should be open to the Metlfods charge of being biased in my views and criticisms of Protestant missionary enterprises, I will make various (Quotations under this heading from no less an authority than Roland Allen, who has had an extensive experience on the Protestant mis- sionary field.* After speaking of the prevalent conception that the stability of a church depends upon the permanence of its buildings and that there- fore the first step in establishing a mission is generally to draw large sums of money from home, secure a building-site, and commence building, Mr. Allen goes on to say: "Thus the foundation of a new mission is primarily a financial operation. But it ought not properly to be a financial operation, and the moment it is allowed to appear as such, that moment ver^y false and dangerous elements are introduced into our work. "By our eagerness to secure property for the church we often succeed in raising up many difficulties in the way of our preaching. We sometimes, especially perhaps in such a country as China, arouse the opposition of the local authorities who do not desire to give for- eigners a permanent holding in their midst. We occasionally even appeal to legal support to enforce our right to purchase the prop- ^♦Missionary Methods; St. Paul's or Ours? MISSIONARY METHODS 373 erty, and thus we begin our work in a turmoil of strife and excite^ ment which we might have avoided. ' ;. "We load our missionaries with secular business, negotiations with contractors, the superintendence of works, the management of a considerable establishment, to which is often added anxiety .about the supply of funds for providing and maintaining the establishment. In this way their attention is distracted from their proper spiritual work, their energy and power is dissipated, and their first contaot with the people whom they desire to evangelize is connected with Bedouin Tents in Syria contracts and other purely secular concerns. It is sad to think what a large proportion of the time of many of our missionaries as spent over accounts. It is sad to sit and watch a stream of Christian vis- itors calling upon a missionary, and to observe that in nearly every case the cause which brings them is money. They are the financial agents of the mission." Our author then proceeds to show that in thus placing externals: first a wrong impression is made and that the natives do not and can not see that there is any divine spirit back of these things. Then he says : "Now, the purchase of land and the establishment of foreign mis- sions in these establishments, especially if they are founded in the 374 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS face of opposition from the local authorities, naturally suggest the idea of a foreign domination. The very permanence of the buildings suggests the permanence of the foreign element. The land is se- cured, and the buildings are raised, in the first instance by the pow- erful influence of foreigners. That naturally raises a question in the native mind why these people should be so eager to secure a perma- nent holding in their midst. They naturally suspect some evil ulterior motive. They suppose that the foreigner is eager to extend his influ- ence and to establish himself amongst them at their expense. In China, particularly, the common idea prevalent amongst the people is that to become a Christian involves submission to a foreign domination. : This conception has a most powerful effect in deterring the people from approaching the missionary or from receiving his teaching with open minds. I think it is now almost universally admitted that the permanence of foreign rule in the church ought not to be our object in propagating the gospel. But by taking large supplies with us to provide and support our establishments and organizations we do in fact build up that which we should be most eager to destroy. Moreover, we do not want to produce the impression that we de- I sign to introduce an institution, even if it is understood that the 1 ijtistitution is to be naturalized. Christianity is not an institution, but ■ ''M principle of life." The whole tendency of this course is to impress the natives that the religion which these people have is foreign. When foreign peo- ple come and build up such institutions with foreign money and in foreign style, the natives can scarcely avoid this idea. And yet this is the very- thing thai should be avoided, for it is one of the greatest difficulties that a missionary can encounter. Furthermore, this wholesale practise of bringing all supplies from home is a ruinous policy, in that it prevents the native church from comprehending its financial obligations and responsibilities. We be- lieve that eventually the native churches should become self-support- ing; but unless they are taught this, and held to practise it to the best of their ability from the beginning, they will never become self- supporting. Moreover, if we build up among them elaborate insti- tutions, in Western style, and thus associate in their minds religion and elegance, they can never support such a system. In our very efforts to have everything nice and inviting according to our way of thinking, we are doing positive harm to the work, in thus imposing Western standards upon Eastern people — standards which in theii social condition they are unable to maintain. MISSIONARY METHODS 375 "By the establishment of great institutions, the provision of large parsonages, mission houses, churches, and all the accompaniments of these things, we [Protestants] tie our evangelists to one place," criticizes Mr. Allen. "They cease to be movable evangelists, and tend to become pastors. From time to time they go out on tour, but their stations are their chief care, and to their stations they are tied. Even if they find that the station is not well chosen, so much money is invested in it, that they Further Hindrances Syrian Feasant Plowing' •can not easily move. Even if some new opening of larger importance is before them, they can not enter into it without serious and financially difficult adjustments. "Further, these establishments make it very difficult for any native to succeed to the place of a European missionary. The Christians gathered round the stations are very conscious of the advantage of having a European [or American] in their midst. He has influence with governors, merchants, masters. He can give valuable recom- mendations. He can return home and plead for his people with soci- eties and charitably disposed individuals. He can collect money for his schools and hospitals. In time of need and stress he can afford io expend much. He is, or is supposed to be, above the common temp- 376 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS tations of the people. He is naturally free from local entanglements. He can not be accused of seeking to make places for his relations. His judgment is impartial, his opinion unbiased by any divisions or jealousies of local society. All these things incline the native con- verts to prefer a European to a native as the head of their station. Consequently, it is very difficult for any native to succeed him. The native has none of these advantages. He can not tap the sources of supply, he can not exercise the same charitable liberality, he can not expect, as of right, the same confidence. He is liable to attack from all sides. He has not even the prestige which attaches to a white face. His position is well-nigh impossible. Moreover, if a native is put in charge of a station, he naturally expects to be paid at the same rate as his white predecessor. If he is not so paid, he feels aggrieved. It is useless to explain to him that a native ought to be able to mak^ one rupee or one dollar go as far as six or seven in the hands of a European. To him the salary for this work, this post, has been fixed at so much, and if he occupies the post, he should receive so much. But native Christians, left to themselves, would never have- created such a post, and sooner or later they will abolish it. They are accustomed to other standards, and other methods of payment, or support, for teachers. Thus by the establishment of these posts we are creating serious difficulties. We say that we hope the day is not far off when natives will succeed to our places and carry on the work which we have begun. By the creation of these stations we have put off that day." Paul had none of the troubles of the modern financial agent of for- eign missions, for he had no regular funds of the church to admin- ister. In his day churches were established, grew up without external financial help, and provided for themselves as best they could. And being thus taught to supply their own needs by individual sacrifice,, they were not apt to be imposed upon, as are foreign missions today,, by a numerous class of people seeking only some pecuniary benefit. The conditions on many foreign fields today can be described in these few words : Bring plenty of money from abroad, build up a fine institution through which the natives can hope to secure some pecun- iary advantage, and the institution will soon be filled (which some, who look upon externals, would call a great work) ; but take away all temporal inducements and advantages, and tell these same natives- that they must build up their own work by denying themselves ancf' sacrificing such things as they have, and the great majority would forsake you immediately. MISSIONARY METHODS 377 As I have already observed, one of the main reasons why we find it difficult to make native churches self-supporting is that the stand- ard which we set for them does not agree with their Method conditions. If there are only a few native Christians in a local church, poor in this world's goods, and we begin by purchasing a building-site for $1,500 or $2,000, and then plan the erection of some institution at an expense of many thousands more, of course the local church can not support that nor maintain it after it is built. I feel convinced that as a church we must give more attention to the Bible standard of proceeding on such lines, and stop lending so much encouragement to this dangerous notion that native churches everywhere can look to America or some other for- eign place for the erection of their chapels, the support of their native workers, etc. The church in America can not bear the financial bur- den of the churches of the world; and unless we promptly discourage this ruinous practise, it will soon become a weight upon the neck of our missionary cause that will drown all extension work in the depths of the sea. But this matter of foreign self-supporting churches does not les- sen the financial obligations of the home church to all of its mission- aries: it rather increases these obligations to such of Foreign apostles of the church when they work according to IVIlssionaries the true Pauline methods. We have already shown that the local churches Paul planted were financially independent of each other so far as their own local support was con- cerned; but we can easily show that the established churches of that day realized their financial obligations to the ministers whom they sent forth to plant the gospel in new fields. While at Corinth, Paul received such assistance, for he afterwards wrote to them, "I robbed other churches, taking wages of them, to do you service" (2 Cor. 11:8). While preaching at Thessalonica, he received support from the church at Philippi ; for he says : "Even in Thessalonica ye sent once and again unto my necessity" (Phil. 4: 16). This language seems to imply that they were in the habit of doing this ; and, furthermore, the apostle expected it of them, and even reproved them because they did not do better. Epaphroditus was obliged to overwork, and became sick as a result, simply because this church failed to do its full duty in this respect. "Because for the work of Christ he was nigh unto death, not regarding his life, to supply your lack of service toward me" (Phil. 2: 30). And when that church did respond with financial help, Paul said, "Ye have well done, that ye did communicate with my afflic- 378 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS tion" and "I rejoiced in the Lord greatly, that now at the last your care of me hath flourished again" (Phil 4: 14, 10). That Paul expected the established churches to support him in his missionary efforts is shown by his letter to the Romans: "When- soever I take my journey into Spain, I will come to you: for I trust to see you in my journey, and to he brought on my way thitherward hy you" (Rom. 15:24). He was willing to make this missionary journey to Spain, but he wrote for this church to bear his expenses. And after the Corinthian church was established, Paul expected their support also on his missionary trips. "And it may be that I will abide, yea, and winter with you, that ye may bring me on my journey whithersoever I go" (1 Cor. 16: 6). And again he informed them of his intention "to come again out of Macedonia unto you, and of you to be brought on my way toward Judea" (2 Cor. 1: 16). The church at Antioch understood its obligation in this respect; for when "they determined that Paul and Barnabas, and certain other of them, should go up to Jerusalem" on a certain mission, these brethren were "brought on their way by the church" (Acts 15:2, 3). From these Scriptural examples we conclude that the home church is directly responsible for the financial support of all its foreign missionaries. There are many distinct advantages in this apostolic system when applied in actual work on the mission field. In the first place, the messenger of the church being in all practical respects finan- cially independent of his hearers, he is above the detrimental suspicion of laboring for his own selfish interests. It enables him to build up a self-supporting local work; and, being under no binding obligations of this character, he is able to withdraw from the direct management of that particular work and to labor in new fields, thus making room for others. In our eagerness to crowd things forward as we do in our own coun- try, we are inclined to underestimate the native tact and ability to look after their own interests. But before we ar- Abilitv rived on the scene, they managed in some way to provide their homes, such as they are; they operated their markets and shops, and conducted other business enterprises. No matter if they do not do such things according to our way ; it is none of our business. Then why can they not manage in their own way the financial affairs of their own churches. They can; and if we allow them to do this, it will relieve us of a great deal of that mis- trust of native honesty and ability in the handling of finances ; for MISSIONARY METHODS 37! An Exemplary Church if they handle their own, they are responsible to themselves, and it is no business of ours. While we were laboring in Alexandria, Egypt, the native church was more than doubled in numbers, and considerable interest was awak- ened among others. These conditions seemed to re- quire efforts for a practical extension of the work be- yond their present limits. It was suggested that a larger place, in a good location, be secured and fitted up for a place of worship. We assisted in selecting the place, and then the native brethren and sisters assembled together and talked over the conditions upon which it could be obtained for two years, and they arranged among themselves for its payment, each one agreeing to contribute whatever amount he felt able to give. When this was done, we felt clear to add a small offering to the general fund. Be- ing with them, we felt free to act with them, but not to act before them or with- out them. Thus, all * the arrangements were made and a good place of worship provided. And I can say that that church is entirely self-supporting, even their pastor being provided for without assistance from America. If I am asked how they are able to do this, I reply, "I do not know; I left such responsibilities with them." Out of seven native minis- ters with whom I was more or less associated in the work in the East, and who are preaching the pure gospel to ih-i best of their ability and opportunity, only one (a general worker) receives any financial assistance from the church in America. In our missionary work we endeavored to give opportunity for the development of native talent. From the outset we let it be known to some that we would not remain with them periaa- Native Talent nently. This announcement we made in such a way as not to discourage them in their efforts, but, on the contrary, to encourage them and to impress upon them that they must prepare themselves to assume the responsibility of perpetuating and spreading the truth which God gave them. In other words, we determined not to assume any air of superiority towards them (which ^^^^^^BQ||^BI9H|||||H ^^vaa twtm trmsM HS ii ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HoHkSU 1".^^H llllllll Churcli of God Mission, Alexandria, Hgrypt 380 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS is all too common among Americans and Europeans in the East) nor to convey the idea that our permanent services would be indispensable. And it was really surprising to us how rapid was the advancement of some dear souls who fully embraced the truth. In addition to the pointed criticisms which Mr. Allen has made of the ordinary present-day method of introducing missionary work by the extensive construction of buildings, establish- Education and i. £ i i v. -j. i jj.i • ■ •■ • • t Compromise ment or schools, hospitals ,and other mstitutions, I wish to call attention to some other serious objections to this method. Hospitals have their place in the world, and schools for general education are not only desirable but indispensable; hence it is not my purpose to criticize such institutions as institutions, but only the method of putting these forward as the first and most im- portant feature of missionary work. The evils inherent in this system are apparent to spiritual-minded people who have had practical experience on the mission field. In the first place, the primary importance attached to such institutions creates a false impression upon the minds of the natives, for it di- rects their attention to external things rather than to spiritual things. Again, the proper maintenance of these institutions involves a limiting of the pure gosepl of Christ. The ministers who are deter- mined to preach a full gospel and who begin their work in a village by establishing a school, can not obey the instruction of Christ nor follow the example of the great missionary, Paul, in case their spiritual message is not well received — they can not "shake off the dust of their feet" and depart unto another city. Although their message re- ceives no moral response whatever on the part of the people, their own buildings hold them to the place. But this is not all. The successful operation of these schools is dependent upon the community; and if the patronage of the peo- ple is to be secured and retained, it is essential that the schools must in a great degree conform to their prejudices. Distinctive doctrvnes and practises which are contrary to public sentiment Tnust he avoided. So vital is this point that some of the most successful Protestant bodies maintaining schools in that part of the world where we were do not require baptism of those native Christians who desire to enter their churches, but accept them as they are, with their triune infant immersion. In a conversation with a well-educated and leading minister in the East I had occasion to ask him concerning the form and manner of baptism practised by his denomination in those countries. He MISSIONARY METHODS 381 replied that in the infancy of their work there this subject caused them considerable difficulty and that their ministers met in confer- ence to decide what should be done. Some desired one method and mode of baptism, some another. They finally reached an agreement. To quote the minister: "After considering the matter from all sides, we concluded that since all the churches of the East baptize infants we also would adopt that practise, so as to avoid friction." He made no reference to the Bible standard on this subject, but merely said *'we considered" and "we concluded." Take, for example, an educational institution which seeks to enroll students from among the Moslems, Druses, Jews, Maronites, Gre- ^orians, and the Greek Orthodox. Now, a school conducted merely as a school could perhaps be accommodated successfully to the de- mands of these various classes of people; but when the attempt is made to give the institution a Christian missionary character, it is •evident that doctrinal distinctiveness and exclusiveness must be sacri- ficed. Instructors and preachers who have definite convictions of truth must of necessity suppress them or merely mention them in an apologetic, timid way. A certain college student who attended our meetings and heard clear, definite teaching said to me, "Our preach- ers dare not preach the truth as you are preaching it." If a school is so situated that its students must be drawn chiefly from among the Greek Orthodox, its favor with the people and its ultimate success will be more certain if it is so conducted that the Greek bishop and priests will be free to occupy the chief seat of honor on special occa- sions. I have investigated this matter carefully, and observation and •experience convinces me that the officials of schools dare not publicly endorse and practise a full, distinctive gospel. I have no disposition to criticize educational work as such. In this respect Protestant missionary societies are doing a grand work j,.jjg^j in the East, a work that is helpful and elevating to Suggestion the country. And their methods tub.^ be the m-.'th- ^^*^ ods best adapted to the character of their message and work. But this I say: that we who have been entrusted with greater light and who believe in preaching and prac- tising a full gospel, should- not make the fatal mistake of limiting our message in an effort to conform to their methods. Their meth- ods have created a sentiment to the effect that missionary work is maintaining schools, and maintaining schools is missionary work ; but we should not allow such sentiment to direct us into an effort to make a showing also by emulating Protestants in their building-operations. 382 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Let us follow the apostolic example and raise up churches; then when strong churches are established, we can also establish schools, if need be, and do the same kind of work that Protestant schools are doing — educate children \ but with this difference: these schools, be- ing composed of those who are favorable to the truth (though not necessarily limited to such), would not be subject to traditional sentiment. The result would be that instead of school-work going before and limiting the message of God's pure gospel, that work of the church for which Christ died would be placed in its proper posi- tion — in front. HOMEWARD BOUND HOMEWARD BOUND Before leaving America, we had decided to return in the early Leavins Svria P^'i't of the year 1914. Accordingly, in the month of March we made our plans to bid farewell to the dear ones whom we had learned to love in Syria, and to sail homeward. On the morning of our departure, March 29, a large number of our friends and neighbors gathered at our house, and the sadness of parting resembled that of a funeral. Although Sister Hittle and Sister Laughlin had made arrangements to move into the house that we had occupied and to continue the meetings as before, those whio were so closely united to us by the bonds of spiritual love and fel- lowship in Christ felt our departure keenly, and a number of them came to Beirut and went with us out to the ship. I was reminded of the farewell at Miletus of Paul and the elders of the church who "accompanied him unto the ship." And how could I know but that I might also say with propriety, "and now, behold, I know that ye all, among whom I have gone preaching the kingdom of God, shall see my face no more".'^ After a final and painful farewell our loved ones disappeared, and we swung out into the open sea. Then we took a parting view of the charming; scenery on the shore. On the plain before Vovaee ^^ stately palm-trees lifted their heads, and here exten- sive olive-orchards were spread out; back of these rose the slopes of the Lebanon, dotted here and there with villages — and Shweifat, the scene of our residence and of many, many inter- esting personal experiences. But the sea was rough, and soon we were all confined to our room by seasickness. This annoying exper- ience marred our anticipated pleasure of the trip down the Syrian coast. There were many pilgrims on the steamer, bound for Jeru- salem; but when we reached Jaffa, the sea was so violent that passen- gers could not be landed. For hours we remained at anchor in the open sea, waiting for a lull in the storm, which never came; so finally the vessel proceeded to Port Said without disembarking her passen- gers. We were glad to step ashore in Egypt. 385 386 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS Proceeding to Cairo, we held meetings there for about ten days. At this time Haigouhi Ouzounian, daughter of Brother Ouzounian, In Egypt decided to accompany us to America, that she might become better acquainted with the work and receive the advantages of spiritual training in this country. Brother Ouzounian accompanied us to Alexandria, where we spent a few days in meetings with the church; then on April 15 we bade, the dear saints of Egypt farewell, and embarked on the North Ger- man-Lloyd steamship Prinz Heinrich. As our vessel sailed out of the harbor and the last view of our brethren in Christ faded away, I re- marked that this separation from the saints in the East was even more painful than was our farewell to the saints of America, and even to our own relatives, when we departed Eastward-bound; for then we expected to return in a comparatively short time, but this separation might be final. On the 18th we arrived in Naples. Here we spent some time in the city itself; in making an ascent of the neighboring volcano. In Italy Mount Vesuvius, then in eruption; and in visiting the excavations of Pompeii. On August 24, 79 A. D., Pompeii, a city of about 30,000 inhabitants, was completely buried by a fierce eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Herculaneum, another city, was also buried by the same eruption. During the middle ages the site of Pompeii remained unknown; but in 1748 some accidental dis- coveries drew attention to the site again, and since 1860 regular excavations have been in progress. Here we walked the paved streets along which Roman chariots rolled many centuries ago, and the ruts worn by the wheels are clearly seen. We entered the houses of thd rich, the walls of which are still decorated with the well-preserved paintings of ages ago. Many of these paintings are decidedly ob- scene, insomuch that to some of the rooms admittance is granted to men only. This is proof that the inhabitants of the city were highly immoral. After a short stop at Rome we went to Paris, where we spent some pg^^jg time in viewing the sights of the city — its avenues, parks, and palaces — and in visiting the Tomb of Na- poleon, the famous art galleries of the Louvre, the Tuileries, and other places. In response to the request of the German brethren we again vis- Essen Germany ^^^^ Essen, Germany, and spent about ten days with them. Brother and Sister Arbeiter came from Switz- erland in order to be in the meetings with us, and God gave us a very HOMEWARD BOUND 387 precious and profitable time. We shall always remember the special kindness of Brother and Sister Doebert and the other dear brethren and sisters there. We felt sorry when the time came to leave them. We appreciated the company of Sister Haigouhi Ouzounian while on the Continent; for being able to speak Italian, French, and German, as well as English, she was able to act as our interpreter while traveling. We went directly from Germany to London, England, where we stopped a short time, and then went on to Birkenhead. Here we re- mained for some time in meetings with the saints, and S^tland Bro. W. H. Cheatham came from Ireland in order to be with us at that time. God blessed the meeting's very much. In response to a request from Bro. Adam Allan I made a side-trip to Aberdeen, Scotland, and had a few services with the church there. I then returned to Birkenhead. One feature of the meetings in England and Scotland which was specially enjoyable to us was the fact that we were now able to preach and work freely without the necessity of an interpreter. It seemed a relief to be able to pour out our heart's burden directly to the people. On the 21st day of May we embarked at Liverpool on the White Star Line steamship Baltic, bound for New York. On the first night out of Liverpool we encountered a dense fog, and had the misfortune to collide with and injure a small steamer. I was informed that as a result of the accident the small boat was leaking badly, but the crew refused to leave it. I never learned its fate. We took on our steamer one member of their crew, whose hand was crushed in the accident. Much of the time we had foggy weather during our pas- sage over the Atlantic, but we had no further accidents. On the morning of May 30 we arrived safely in New York. We went out to the Missionary Home, where special meetings were Arrival Home being held, and we remained with them over Sun- day. Monday we took train for Michigan; and the next day, June 2, we were rejoiced to be once more in the com- pany of our relatives at our home near Grand Junction. INDEX Abana 249 Abel, Dr. 38 Aberdeen, Scotland 387 Abila Lysaniae 251 Abilene 251 Aboukir, battle of 31 Abu-bekr 271 Abydos 279 Abyssinian Monastery 136 Acropolis (Athens) 88, 90, 91 Adana 284, 344 Addison, Joseph 32 quoted 41, 46 Adele 354, 355 Adramyti, Gulf of 281 Adrian, Emperor, 126 Adrianople 278, 342 Adriatic Sea 68, 85 >^gean Sea 96, 261, 262, 265, 279 Areogapus (Mar's Hill) 88, 89 Agamemnon, king of Greece, 90, 94 Agincourt, battle of 35 Agrippa, Marcus 75 Aitat 296 . Akka, Bay of 241 Akra, Mountain 142 Aksa Mosque 140. 152 Albigenses 81 Alcibiades 93 Alexander V. Pope 58 Alexander VI, Pope 67 Alexander the Great 25, 27, 97 Alexander Sarcophagus 274 Alexandretta 285 Alexandria 30, 97-102, 114, 379 Alexandrian Library 98, 99 destroyed 1 02 Alfieri 55 Algiers 114 Ali 271 Allan, Adam 22, 387 Allan, Roland, quoted. 369, 372-376 Ambrose, St. 52-54 Amrou 1 02 Ananias, house of (Damascus) 248 Andre, Maj. John 42 Angelo, Michael 55, 66, 74 Anthony, St. 280 Anti-Lebanon Mountains 25 1 Antioch 285-288 Antioch, Lake of 285 Antiochus 125, 126, 286, 288 Antonia, fortress of 154 Antoninus Pius 252 Antony, Mark 84, 165 Apelles 262 Apostles' Spring 161, 172 Appian Way 61, 62. 65 Appius Claudius 61 Arazzi, Galleria degli 68 Arbeiter, Karl 47, 48, 386 Arbela, battle of 27, 28 Argonauts 277 Arian heresy 53 Aristophanes 96 Aristotle 29, 87 Armanious. Mosad. 341 Arno 54. 56 Artaxerxes III 109, 275 Artemis 25 Artemisia 25. 262 Arundel 37 Asian. M. G. 342. 343 Assos 281 Assyrian Room 27. 28 Aswad, Zahia, 354 Athanasius 102 388 INDEX 389 Athena 89, 92 Athene PoHas, temple of, 25 Athens 25, 86-96, 270 Athens, Gulf of 87 Athos, Mountain 280 Attica, Plain of 87, 90 Atticus Herodes 95 Aubigny, Philip 'd' 133 Augustine, St. 52 Aurelius, Marcus 251, 265 Austerlitz, battle of 53 Averof, N. 95 B Baalbeck 251-258, 270 Baba, Cape 281 Babylon, captured 27 Babylonian Room 27, 28 Bacchylides 29 Bach 33 Bacon, Sir Francis 31, 32 Baldwin IV 121 Balliol. John 45 Barada 249. 251 Barcochba 1 22, 1 26 Baronius 67 Bayazid I 278 Beautitudes, Mount of, see Karn Hattin Beauchamp Tower 34, 36 Beaumont, quoted 47 Bedouins 245, 294 Beethoven 33 Behistun, inscription at 27 Beilan Pass 285 Beirut 109, 113, 289, 327, 328 Beisan 244 Beitin 199 Belfast 22 Belisarius 84 Bell Tower 34 Belshazzar, proof of 27, 28 Benedict XIII, Pope 58 XIV 80 XV 72 Ben-hadad 216, 220 Benjamin of Tudela, quoted 188, 189 Bertini, painter 51 Bethany 172-174, 296 Bethel 199-201. 242, 243 Bethesda, Pool of 155 Bethlehem 180-183 Bethsaida 237 Bettir 1 22 Bezetha, Mount 142 Bin Bir Direk, cistern 275 Birkenhead, England 387 Black Sea 277, 278, 344 Bliss. F. J., quoted 295. 297, 311 Bloody Tower 34 Boleyn. Anne 31. 33. 34, 35, 38 Boniface III 313 Boniface IV, Pope 75 Bosphorus 266. 267 Bradshaw 46 Brech, Simon 45 Brindisi 63, 84, 85 British Museum 24-33, 275 Brousilian, Brother 346 Browning, Robert 42 Brummana 354 Bruno, Giordano 80 Bucharest 265, 278, 342 Buckingham, Duke of 34 Buckingham Palace 38 Budrum 262 Burke, Edmond 31 Byron, Lord 32, 279 Byzantium 266 Caesar, Augustus 83 Claudius 23, 60 Julius 84 Temple of 84 Caesarea 117, 241, 281 Cairo 26, 102-107, 114-116, 304. 386 390 INDEX Calvary, see Golgotha Calvin, John 32 Campanile 56 Cana of Galilee 228, 229 Canning, George 43 Capernaum 236, 237 Carlyle 32 Capotolina i^lia 126 Capua 63 Caria 23 Carmel, Mount 118. 120. 219, 224. 239-241 Carrey, Jacques 93 Carthage 52 Catacombs 61 Cathedrals : St. Paul's (London) 38 St. Peter's (Rome) 65-67 Milan, Italy 49-51 Florence, Italy 55 Pisa, Italy 57 Russian (Jerusalem) 157 Catherine of Aragon 31, 36, 38 Chalcedon 266, 276 ChampoUion 27 Chanak 279 Chapels : of the Ascension 144 St. Benedict 43, 44 Confessor's 40, 41. 43 St. Edmund 44 Henry VII's 41,45,46 Holy Sepulcher 133 St. Helena 135, 136 of the Innocents 182, 183 St. Jerome 183 St. John 36 St. George 35 of the Manger 182 of St. Peter 34, 38 Sistine 72, 73 Charing Cross 23 Charlemagne 52, 65 Charles I 46 II 33, 35, 46 V 31 Chatham, Earl of 43 Chaucer 42 Cheatham, W. H. 22, 387 Cheops, pyramid of 104 Cherith, brook of 163 Chios, Island of 282 Chorazin 237 Chrysostom 287 Churches: of St. Ambrose (Milan) 52, 53 St. Croce (Florence) 55 St. Peter's (Rome) 65-67 Lateran 80 Holy Sepulcher 132-135, 194 Redeemer 1 36 St. Stephen 138 of the Creed 144 of the Lord's Prayer 144 St. Mary Magdalene 145 St. Anne 154 of the Virgin 159 St. James 159 of the Nativity 182, 183, 194 St. John 218 of the Annunciation 224 St. Irene 272 St. Peter's (Antioch) 288 Churches of the East: origin 313, 314 Greek Orthodox doctrines and practises 315- 317 Maronite doctrines and practises 318- 322 Protestant 322-324 Cicero 52 Cimabue 57 Cimon 91 Clarendon 47 Claypole, Elizabeth 46 INDEX 391 Clement of Alexandria 102 Clement of Rome 30, 60 Cleopatra, Queen 165 Codex Alexandrinus 30 Sinaiticus 30 Vaticanus 30, 70 Coele-Syria 25 1 Colchis 277 Coleridge 32 Colosseum 76—80 Colossus of Rhodes 262 Como 49 Condivi, Ascanio, quoted 73, 74 Condor, quoted 138 Constance, Council of 58 Constantine the Great 23, 30, 52, 65, 126. 144, 152, 252, 266 Consantinople 30, 265-276 Constanza 276, 278 Corinth 86 Gulf of 85, 86 Isthmus of 86, 87 Coronation Chair 44, 45 Cos 262, 282 Costius Caius 61 Councils, General 268, 276 Cowper, William 32 Crete 97 Crete, George 42 Croesus 25 Cromer, Lord, quoted 302 Cromwell, Oliver 31,34,45,46 Cyanean Rocks 277 Damascus 247-250 Dan 243 Dante 55 Darazi, Ismael 299 Dardanelles 265, 278, 279 Darius I 27. 275. 277 Darwin, Charles 32, 42 David's Well 180. 182 Dead Sea 124, 142, 163. 170-172. 234 De Foe, Daniel 32 Delos 270 Demosthenes 266 Dera 245 Devereux, Robert 38 Diana 25 Temple of 282 Dickens, Charles 32, 42 Dikili 282 Diocletian, Emperor 276 Dionysius, theater of 95, 96 Dionysus 262 Disraeli, Benjamin 31 Doebert. Otto 47, 387 Dorcas, grave of 118 Dothan 219 Druses 193, 295, 297 doctrines and beliefs 297—301 Dryden 32 Dudley, Robart 37 John 37, 38 Brothers — Robert, Ambrose, Guilford, Henry 38 Eannatum 275 Ebal, Mount 204. 206, 214 Edrei 245 Edward the Confessor 39. 40. 44 Edward I 40. 44 III 44 IV 42 V 34, 42, 46, 47 VI 42 Egypt, history of 27 in prophecy 109 Egyptian Room 26 Ekron 121 El-Bireh 199 Elgin Room 25. 92 El Hakim 299 Eliot, George 32 392 INDEX Elisha's Fountain 164 Elizabeth, Queen 31. 34, 37. 42. 45. 46 El-Lubban 204 El-Maan 245 Endor 222 Engannim 219 Engedi, wilderness of 171 Ephesus 25, 264. 270, 282 Ephesus Room 25 Erasmus 32 Esarhaddon, King 207 Eschylus 87, 96 Esdraelon, Plain of 1 24, 2 1 9-222. 244 Es-Salehiyeh 248 Essen 47, 386 Eth-Baal, king of Tyre 239 Ethelgoda, queen of Essex 43 Eudoxia, Empress 1 38 Eupator. Antiochus 186 Euphrates 293 Euripides 87, 96 Eusebius, quoted 144 Euxine 277 Fair Haven 97 Fatima, grave of 248 Flavian Amphitheater 76-80 Flodden, battle of 31 Florence. Italy 54, 55 Forum. Roman 83 Fountain of the Virgin 195 Fox. Charles James 31. 43 Frederick the Great 31 Galita 266 Galilee, Sea of 231-239. 244 Galileo 32, 55. 56. 57. 80 Gallipoli 278 Gathelus. Kink 45 Gath-hepher 228 Genseric 84 George V. King 45 Gerizim, Mount 204. 206. 208, 209 Gethsemane. Garden of 191. 192 Gezer 121 Gibeah of Benjamin 199 Gibbon, Edward 32 Gilgal 242 Gilgamesh 28 Gipsies 1 93 Gizeh, pyramids of 26, 102—105 Gladstone, Wm. E. 43 Glengormly 22 Goethe 33 Golden Horn 266 Golgotha 132. 135 Gordon's 138. 140 Gordon's Calvary, see Golgotha Goshen, land of 107. 108 Gregory the Great 313 Gregory XII, Pope 58 Grey, Lady Jane 31. 33, 34. 38 Grottoes : of Jeremiah 141 of Samson 122 of St. James 193 of Elijah 241 Gumuldjina 278. 342 H Hadrian, Emperor 122, 152 Haifa 239 Hale, Alice V. 22 Halicarnassus 262 Mausoleum of 25, 26, 262 Halirrhotius 89 Hamilton, Sir William 31 Hamze 299 Harmachis 1 06 Handel 33 Haram esh-Sherif 1 30, 1 45-1 54. 1 94 Harvey, William 32 Hastings. Warren 31, 32 Hastings, Lord 38 battle of 24 INDEX 393 Hauran 244, 245 Hebron 186-189 mosque at 193 Helena 81, 132, 135, 182, 273 chapel of 135, 136 Heliopolis 270 Helespont 279 Henry III 39 IV, King of Navarre 31 V 35, 44 VI 34 Vli 35, 42, 46 VII's Chapel 41 VIII 30, 31. 33, 36, 38,40 Hera 106 Herculaneum 386 Hermon, Mount 171, 204, 224, 235, 247 Herod 117, 126, 151, 165, 183,216, 217,238 Herodotus 104, 105, 108, 262 Herostratus 25 Herschel, Sir John Frederick 42 Hezekiah's Pool 131 Hinnom, Valley of 125, 128, 196 Hippo 52 Hippocrates 262 Hiram, king of Tyre 109, 117, 241 Hittle, Bessie L. 19, 116, 261, 352, 385 Holy Roman Empire 65, 66 Homer 29, 87, 97, 264 Honorius, Emperor 78 Hortensius 52 Howard, Philip 37 Queen Catherine 34, 35, 38 Hughes, Rev. T. P., quoted 304-306 Hugo, Victor 32 Humbert I, king of Italy 75 Hume, David 32 Huss, John 58 Hyperides 29 Hyrcanus, John 207, 216 I Ibrahim Basha 300 Ibrahim, Sultan, tomb of 141 Iconoclasts 268 Ignatius 287 Iliad 29, 86 Imbros, Island of 279 Imperial Ottoman Museum 272-275 Inn, Good Samaritan 161 Inscriptions, Room of Greek and Latin 25 Irene, Empress 276 Ireton 46 Irving, Sir Henry 42 Ismailiyeh 193, 295, 296 Ismid 276 Gulf of 276 Jacob's Well 204 Jaffa 116-120, 385 James I 46 II 36, 45 Jebb, Prof., quoted, 101 Jehosophat, valley of 125, 128, 130, 142, 192, 194-196 Jehu 28 Jenin 219 Jericho 163-165, 172 modern 165-167 Jerome, St. 183, 233 of Prague 58 Jerusalem Natural situation 122-125 Historical Sketch 125-127 Modern city and environs 128— 160, 172-177, 191-196 Jerusalem Stela 273 Jews 193, 295, 312 Jezreel 220, 244 Job's Well 196 John XI, Pope 67 John, bishop of Constantinople 314 394 INDEX Johnson, Samuel 42 Joppa, see Jaffa Jordan 167-170, 234, 244 Plain of 167 Joseph's Tomb 204 Josephus 99, 138 Jowett, Prof., quoted 100 Judas, house of (Damascus) 248 Julian the Apostate 152, 284. 287 Julius II 66 Jupiter, Temple of at Rome 32 at Jerusalem 126, 149, 152 at Baalbeck 251 Jureidini, Adele 354, 355 Sister 355 Justina 53 Justinian 84, 268, 270, 272 Kalymno, Island of 263 Kant 33 Kappal, battle of 48 Karnak, Temple of 114 KarnHattin 230,231 Karyae 280 Kefr-Kenna 228, 229 Kefun 296 Kelvib, Lord 42 KerakNuh 251 Kerazeh 237 Keshishian, Nazareth 284 Kesrouan 296 Khafra, pyramid of 104, 107 Khan Minyeh 237 Khuful 105 Kidron. valley of 142, 191 Kishon, brook of 240, 241 Koran 102, 151, 246, 302 quoted 149 Krio, Cape 262 Kura 296 Kurds 193 Kyrenia, Cyprus 346 Larnaca, Cyprus 346, 347 Latimer, Hugh 31 Laughlin, Nellie 352, 285 Kazar, John 341 Leander 279 Lebanon, Mount 19. 109, 117, 289, 385 Leibnitz 33 Leicester, Earl of 38 Lemnos, Island of 280 Leo XI, Pope 30 XIII, Pope 67 Lero, Island of 263 Libanius 285, 287 Lipsos, Island of 263 Liverpool 22, 388 Livingstone, David 41 Locke, John 32 London 23-47 Tower of 31,33-38 Louis II 52 XIV, 31 Lovat, Lord 36 Louvre 386 Lubiyeh 230 Luther, Martin 30, 32, 82 Lycia 283 Lydda 120, 121 Lyell, Sir Charles 42 Lykorgos 95 Lynch, Leut. 167 Lysander 279 M Macaulay, Lord 32, 42 Maccabeus, Judas 186 Machiavelli 55 Machpelah, Cave of 188, 189 Madeba Mosaic 155, 186 Magdala 237 Manicheans 52 Mansford, Dr., quoted 249 INDEX 395 Mantz, Felix 48 Marathon, battle of 53 Marmora. Sea of 266, 276, 278 Maro 318 Marozia 67 Mar's Hill 88, 89. 95 Martin V. Pope 58 Martyr. Justin 182 Mary. Queen of Scots 31, 45 Queen of England 42 Mary's Well 225 Mausoleum of Halicarnassus 25, 26, 273 Mausolus 80 Maxentius 80 Maximilian, Emperor 36 Mecca 304, 335, 344 Megiddo 219 Mendelssohn 33 Menes 105 Minerva, Sanctuary of 89 Melancthon 32 Melita 97 Memphis 26, 102 Menephta 116 Menkau-Ra 26 Pyramid of 104, 107 Merrill, Bishop, quoted 139 Mersina 283, 344 Metawali 193, 296, 303 Milan 49-54 Cathedral at 49-51 Milton, John 32 Minos 97 Mitylene 281, 282 Mohammed 121, 150, 151, 246, 271, 302 II 268 Mohammedanism 301-312 status of women 309, 310, 332 slavery and concubinage 246, 311 contrasted with Christianity 246, 247 Monasteries : Abyssinian 1 36 Dominican 1 38 of Mount Zion 159 of St, George 163 of Elijah 240, 241 on Mount Athos 280 Monothelite controversy 268 Monza 49 More, Sir Thomas 31, 34 Moriah, Mount 125, 126, 128, 142, 147 Moslems 193, 246, 247, 295 doctrines and practises 302-308 Mosques : Aksa 140, 152 Omaiyade 249, 250 Omar 128, 147-151, 152, 249, 273 St. Sophia 250, 268-272 Mozart 33 Mummies of Egyptian Kings 1 14-1 16 Mycenae 86, 90 Myria 283 N Nabonadius 27, 28 Nabulus 204-214 Nain 222 Naples 386 Napoleon 11, 31, 107, 198, 220 tomb of 386 Nazareth 219, 222-225 Nebi-Musa festival 174 Nebo, Mount 150 Nebuchadnezzar 125, 220 "Needle's Eye" 130 Nelson, Lord 31 Nestorianism 268 Newton, Sir Isaac 32, 41 Nicholas V 66 Nicomedia 276 Nicosia, Cyprus 346, 347 Nile 27, 102 396 INDEX Nimrod 28 Nimrod Saloon 28 Nineveh 275 Gallery 28 Nizer 29 Nob 199 Nusairiyeh 193, 295, 296 Odeion 95 Odyssey 29 (Edipus 106 Olives. Mount of 128, 142-144 Omaiyade Mosque 249, 250 Omar 145, 152, 271 quoted 1 02 Mosque of 128, 147-151, 273 Omri 28 Origen 102 Ororius 60 Osman 271 Ottoman Museum 273-275 Ouzounian, G. K. 102, 1 14, 237, 261, 340 Sister 341 Haigouhi 386, 387 Oxyrhyncus 29 Pagus, Mount 264 Palermo 57 Palestine 116-244 Pambukdjian, Mikail 114,169.244 Pamphylia 283 Pantheon 75 Papyrus MSS. 29, 30 Paris 386 Parr, Thomas 42 Parrhasius 87 Parthenon 25, 89, 94 destruction of 92, 93 Patmos, Island of 263 Patras, Greece 85 Paula 183 Peabody, George 41 Pelasgians 86 Pepin 52 Pers 266 Pergamos 282 Pericles 87, 91. 92 Perugino 55 Peter the Cruel 35 the Great 31 the Hermit 144 Peter's St. (Rome) 65-67 Petrarch 55 Petrograd 30 Peverel 37 Phaedo, Plato's 29 Pharos 98 Pharpar 247 Phasael Tower 130 Phidias 55, 87, 92, 94 Philargi, Pietro, Cardinal 58 Philip of Macedon 266 Philippides 29 Philo 100 Philoxenus, cistern of 275 Phocas, Emperor 313 Phoenice 97 Pilate's Staircase 81, 82 Pindar 87 Pionius 265 Piraeus 96 Pisa, Italy 56-58 Council of 58 Pisgah, Mount 163 Pithom 116 Pitt, William 31, 43 Pius IX, Pope 82 X, Pope 82 Plataea, battle of 91 Plato 29, 87, 108 Pliny 26, 49 Plutarch, quoted 92 Polycarp, bishop of Smyrna, 264. 265 Polygnotus 87 Pompeii 386 INDEX .'j:)7 Pools: Hezekiah 131 Bethesda 1 55 Solomon 183—186 Gihon 184 Siioam 184. 195 Birket es-Sultan 189 Pope 32, 41 Port Said 385 Potidaea 25 Praxitiles 55, 87 Priene 25 Prinkipo, Island of 276 Propyl ae a 93 Ptolemy Euergetes 30 V 26 Soter 98 Philadelphius 99 Pyramids, Egyptian 26,102-105,114 of Zacharias 193 Pythagoras 1 08 Quaratana, Mount 165 Quarries, Royal 140, 141 Rachel's Tomb 177 Raleigh, Sir Walter 31, 32, 34, 36 Rameses 116 II 114 Ramleh, Er 121 Raphael 55, 69, 70, 15 Stanze 70 Logge 72 Rawlinson, Sir Henry 27 Rayak 251 Red Sea 116 Remus 58 Rephaim, valley of 122 Rhine 47 Rhodes 261, 282, 283 Colossus at 262 Richard II 44 III 42 Rockford, Jane Viscountess 38 Rome 30, 58-84 Romulus 58 Rosetta Stone 26, 27 Rousseau 32 Rubens 55 Sacred Rock 147, 150 St. Ambrose, church of 52 St. Augustine 52 St. Benedict, chapel of 44 St. Calixtus, catacombs 61 St. Croce, church 55 St. Edmund, chapel 44 St. Edward 35 St. George, chapel 35 St. Gotthard railway 48, 49 St. Irene, church of 272 St. James, grotto of 193 St. John, chapel 36 St. Paul's Cathedral 38 St. Peter, sitting statue of 66 chapel of 34, 38 church of (Rome) 65-67 church of (Antioch) 287 St. Quentin, siege of 38 St. Sophia, mosque of 250, 268-272 Saladin 121, 126, 187, 220, 230 Salamis 262 battle of 91 Salim, Mr. 332 Salisbury, Countess of 38 Salmone 97 Salutaris, C. Vibius 25 Samakh 239, 244 Samaria, city of 206. 207, 214-218 Samaritans, sect of 207-214 Messianic hope of 212, 213 Samaritan Pentateuch 210-212 Samos, Island of 263, 282 398 INDEX Samothrace, Island of 279 Sarghaya 25 1 Sargon 275 Scala Santa 81, 82 Schick. Dr. 157 Schliemann, Dr. 93, 279 School of the prophets 241, 242 Schubert 33 Schumann 33 Schweifat, Mount Lebanon 1 1 3, 258, 289, 332, 336, 385 Scone, stone of 44, 45 Scopus, Mount 142 Scott, Sir Walter 32 Scutari 266, 276 Sebaste 2 1 7 Sebert, king of Essex 39, 43 Seleucus Nicator 286 Sellin, Prof. 163 Sennacherib 28, 275 Septuagint Version 99, 101 Sergius III, Pope 67 Sesosyris 114 Setil 114,220 Seutonius 60 Seven Wonders 26, 102, 262, 282 Severus, Julius 122 Septimus, Arch of 83 Seymour, Edward 33, 34 Jane 33 Shafat 199 Shalmanezer 28 Shakespeare 32 Sharon, Plain of 118, 120 Shechem 204-214 Shelley 32 Sheridan, Richard 31, 42 Sherif, Haram esh- 145-154, 194 Shiahs 302 Shiloh 202 Shuf 296 Shunem 222 Sidon 109, 273, 274 Siloam inscription 273 Pool of 195, 273 Silpius, Mount 288 Simon the Tanner, house of 118 Sinai, Mount 30 Sit-napistim 28 Sloane, Hans 24 Smyrna 264, 265, 282 Gulf of 263, 282 Socrates 87 prison of 93 Solomon's Stables 153, 154 Somerset, Duke of 33 Sophocles 87, 96 Sorek, valley of 121 Sparta 25 Spencer, Herbert 32 Sphinx 105, 106 Stadion 95 Stamboul 265-276, 278 Stanley, quoted 124 Dean, quoted 208 Stephens, Alexander 31 Suez Canal 109 Suk Wady Barada 251 Suke-el-Gharb 296, 335, 350 Suleiman I 279 Sunni 296, 302 Sunnin, Mount 329 Swift 32 Symmachus of Milan 53 Symmons, Samuel 32 Tabitha, grove of 118 Tabnith Sarcophagus 274 Tarpeia 75 Tarpeian Rock 75 Tarshish 1 1 7 Tarsus 284, 344 Tasker, George P. 19 Minnie 19 Taurus Mountains 284, 293 INDEX 399 Tabor, Mount 219, 224 Tel-el-Amarna 275 Tell Hum 236 Telemachus 78 Tello 275 Temple Area 130, 145-154. 194 Temples : of Augustus 217 of Bacchus (Baalbeck) 254-256 of Diana 282 of Jupiter (Rome) 32 of (Jerusalem) 126.149.152 of (Baalbeck) 251.253,254 Jewish (different) of Karnak 114 of Theseus 89 of Venus (Baalbeck) 257 of Vesta (Rome) 61 of Zeus (Athens) 89 Tenedos, Island of 281 Tennyson 32. 42 Thames 33 Thebes 114 Themistocles 9 1 Theodolinde. Queen 49 Theodosius the Great 53. 54. 250. 252 Theseus. Temple of 89 Thessalonica 25. 53 Thompson. Sir William 42 Thomson. W. M., quoted 193. 194 345 Thathmes 220 Thucydides 87 Tiberius 233, 243 Tibneh 202 Tischendorf 30 Titian 55 Titus 76. 126, 138, 152 Arch of 84 Tomb of Absalom 192 Tombs of the Kings 137. 138 Tophet 196 Towers : Beauchamp 34, 36 Bell 34 "Bloody" of David 130 Leaning, of Pisa 56. 57 of London 31. 33-38 Wakefield 35 White 33. 35. 38 Tozer. quoted 280, 281 Trajan. Emperor 75, 78 Column of 75 Trench, Richard 41, 42 Tripoli 289 Troas 281 Troy 279 Tuileries 386 Tyre 109, 117,283 Tyropoean Valley 125 u Uffizi, Galleria degli 55 "Unction, Stone of" 133 Urban VIII, Pope 75 Usher, Archbishop James 47 Valentinian II 53 Vatican 67-74 Vaudois 81 Vellum MSS. 29, 30 Verus, Lucius 251 Vespasian 76, 118, 126, 220, 233 Vespucci, Amerigo 55 Vesta, Temple of 61 Vesuvius, Mount 386 Victor III, Pope 67 Victor Emmanuel II 75 Victoria, Queen 35, 38 Victory. Temple of (Athens) 89 Vinci. Leonardo da 55 Virgin's Spring 273 Voltaire 32. 41 Vyse. Col, 107 400 INDEX W Wadi el-Ajam 247 Wadi Jifna 202 Wadi Urtas Valley 183, 184 Wagner 33 Wailing-Place. Jews' 174-177 Wakefield Tower 35 Waldenses 8 1 Walpole, Sir Robert 31 Warwick, Earl of 38 Waterloo, Battle of 31 Watts, Dr. Isaac 42 Wellington, Duke of 31 Wesley, John 32, 42 Charles 42 Westminster Abbey 38-47 White Tower 33, 35, 38 Wilberforce, William 43 William I (the Conqueror) 24, 33, 39 Wilson, Edward L., quoted 139 Winterthur 47, 48 Wortabet, Dr., quoted 316 Wolsey, Cardinal 31, 33 Woodville, Elizabeth 47 Xenophon 87 Xerxes 262, 279 Yahfufeh 251 Yarmuk, valley of 244 Yereh Batan Serai, cistern 276 Yezedy 193 Zacharias, Pyramid of 193 Zahia 354 Zahleh 296 Zeno 87 Zerin 220 Zeus, Temple of 89 Zimridi 275 Zion, Mount 125, 128, 142 present state of 157, 158 Zionist movement 312, 313 Zurich 48 Zwingli, Ulrich 48