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THE
COMPLETE GUIDE
TO
SILK CULTURE
BY
L. CAPSADELL, .. j
Secretary New York Silk Exchange.
NEW YORK:
W. B. SMITH & CO.,
1883.
\ \ -■■
.H2Z
Copyright, 1882.
By W. B. Smith & Co., New York.
PREFACE.
Without sacrificing comprehensiveness to brevity this book
aims to be a concise, practical, and reliable manual in every
detail of silk-culture.
French, Italian, and English authorities on the subject are
discursive and elaborate ; early American authorities were
premature, and are outgrown by experience ; and recent Amer-
ican publications have been generally mere business circulars
and pamphlets issued simply for advertising purposes.
Diligent research and most careful effort have been made
to discriminate, for this volume, the best data and the soundest
results of modern experiments, and to bring them within an
intelligent focus.
TO SILK-CULTURISTS.
It is reasor ably believed that no culturist, however young as
a beginner, or however skilful as an expert, will need any other
instruction than that which is comprised within these pages, in
order to acquire the largest profits and to retain the best per-
manent successes in American silk-culture.
TO PRINCIPALS AND OFFICERS OF SCHOOLS.
The method and practice of silk-culture are taught in all the
schools of France, from the primary to the grammer grades, in
the convents, and in all the high schools. All classes are taught
its simplicity, usefulness, necessity, and profit.
There is no industry in the worll which can be made so gen-
erally universal and so immensely profitable as silk-culture.
(5)
yi PREFACE.
From the feeding of the worms to the weaving of braids and
ribbons and the knitting of hosiery, it can be conducted very
economically and be made to yield an almost fabulous income.
Why should it no'^ be introduced as a study in American
schools ?
TO TEACHERS.
This volume is confidently presented as a text-book which
will enable you to introduce and teach this new study immedi-
ately. With the aid of the book the subject is easily available,
interesting, pleasant and practicable ; and it can be taught vrithin
a single school term of fourteen weeks.
HOT77 TO USE THE "GUIDE" AS A TEXT-BOOK
1. As a supplementary reading book in the higher grades of
primary classes.
2. As a recitation book in the intermediate and grammar
classes.
3. Turn the topical or black-letter sectio'n-heads into ques-
tions. The topics are thus marked, throughout the book, ex-
pressly for this Durpose.
L. Capbadell.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
I. Silk-Food Trees and How to Raise Tliem 9
II. Cocoonery, How to Construct and Manage 29
III. Eggs, How to Keep and Hatch Them 20
IV. How to Rear Silkworms 31
V. Races, Varieties, and Values 39
VI. Gathering, Stifling, and Packing Cocoons 43
VII. Reproduction 17
VIII. Reeling and Spinning 53
IX. Silk-Culture Requisites CO
X. Index 64
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Gathering Mulberry-Leaves — Fro:! is;)iecc 2
Silkworms, First Age (2) 33
" Second Age (2) 33
Third Age (2) G3
Fourth Age (2) C-i
" Fifth Age 35
Spinning-Branches 36
Spinning-Branches in the Racks 37
Standard Cocoons 41
Strings of Cocoons 47
Female Moth and Male Moth 48
Mating-Box 49
Cell for Laying Eggs 50
Tray and Frame 60
Rack : GZ
NOTE.
The author of this book is under obligations for assistance
rendered in its preparation bj Mr. Virion des Lauriers, the
Superintendent of the New York Silk Exchange and an expe-
rienced silk-culturist.
L. C.
New Ycrk, Oct. 7, 1S82.
(8)
GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
SILK-PRODUCING FOODS, AND HOW TO RAISE THEM.
SPECIES.
The Mulberry-tree was cultivated in China, and
known by the name of The Golden Tree, two thou-
sand six hundred years before the Christian era.
The silkworm requires a food comprising four sub-
stances, — a fibrous substance, water, saccharine, and
resin. Water and saccharine nourish the worm;
the resinous substance gives the silk.
Good foods comprising the above qualities are
given below, and are valuable in the order named.
1. White Mulberry {Morus Japonica).
{Morus Alba Moretti),
{Morus Alba Rosed),
{Ilorus Alba proper),
{Morus Multicaulis).
{Morus Nigra).
{Morus Tartarica).
8. Osage Orange {Madura Aurantiaca),
Morus Japonica is Japanese, — the Lou Sang.
In France, Italy, and Spain, nearly all other trees
have been discarded for this. It produces more silk
(9)
2.
u u
3.
ii u
4.
a a
5.
a a
6.
Black "
7.
Caucasian "
10 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
than any other variety, and grows in more conve-
nient shape and height for gathering its leaves. It
is hardy, stands severe winters, and while it is the
best for the Eastern, Western, and the Middle States,
it is equally well suited for all the Southern States.
It has a large leaf, comes early, and yields one
pound of cocoons to about ten pounds of leaves.
It can be planted from the first of October till the
fifteenth of May, according to locality and climate.
The fruit is white, smooth, and very sweet.
The Moretti is the Morns Elata, and is used
some along the Alps, South France, and !North
Italy. It is hardy, grows tall and straight, has
luxuriant foliage, and is good for standard or orna-
mental trees. It produces one pound of cocoons to
about fourteen pounds of leaves. Its leaves are
very large, oval, sharp-pointed, entu'e, cordate at
base, thin, and smooth on both under and upper
surfaces, rather deep shining green in color.
Morus Rosea has a large rose-shaped leaf. It
can be planted as standard, hedge, or ornamental
tree. It is slender, and has more extended branches
than any other variety. Its leaves are shining as if
varnished, and its fruit is of a rose-gray. It is not
so good as the Japonica; and produces one pound
of cocoons to about fourteen pounds of leaves.
Morus Alba proper. — This is the parent stock
from which the Japonica, Moretti, and Eosea are
cultivated varieties. It yields one pound of cocoons
to fourteen or sixteen pounds of leaves. It is used
SILK-PIIODUCING FOODS. 11
generally in France, Italy, Spain, and all silk-growing
countries as standard; and it is abandoned only as
the growers become acquainted with the improved
varieties. The leaves are cordate, serrate, entire, or
lobed ; the upper surface is a shining green, perfectly
smooth, and the under surface has some liairs on its
edges. The fruit is white, roundish-oblong, and in-
sipid. The trees grow rapidly.
Moms MulticaTilis (from the Philippine Islands)
is delicate, and grows well and large v\ the South.
Those who have it will do well to feed on it until
they get better trees. It produces one pound of
cocoons to about eighteen pounds of leaves. The
leaves are very large, soft, and serrated near the
summit. The fruit is white and bearded.
Morus Nigra (from Asia Minor) is used success-
fully in E"orthern or colder states and countries, and
it mil produce good silk. It is very hardy, will
groAV anywhere in the United States or Canada,
and makes good timber. Its fruit is large, black,
aromatic and jnicy. The leaves are large and
rugged.
Morus Tartarica, or Caucassian Mulberry, pro-
duces a strong silk, grows rapidly, attains large size,
is a prolific fruit-bearer, available for orchard or
forest, and makes good timber. The fruit resembles
the Morus Nigra.
Osage Orange is a silk-food, produces fair silk,
but less in quantity. Those who have this plant
may use it advantageously, and with good profit, —
12 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
especially as learners and beginners. Prof. Eiley,
of the Agricultural Bureau at Washington, thinks
well of it; but practical silk-culturists do not. We
commend it as an intermediary.
To attain the hest profits, the best White Mulberry
(Japonica) must be used.
Dwarf Mulberry is attained by cutting close
to the ground, and thus forcing numerous sprouts.
It may be brought to great perfection, out of any
variety, furnishing as many leaves as another tree
twice its size, and a much greater number of plants
will grow in any given space.
Paper Mulberry (from Asiatic Turkey) is some-
times classed as a silk-food. We do not class it as
such. Worms will feed on it, but are likely to die
from its effects. The leaf is large, rough on the
upper surface, and white on under surface. The
tree is barren of fi-uit. It can be grafted with Ja-
ponica, and thus makes good food the second year
after o^raftino-.
Lettuce. — Worms will sometimes eat lettuce, and
the young leaves of the castor-oil plant. These may
sustain life a few days, in emergencies of too early
hatching, until the young mulberry-leaves come; but
these are not .silk-producing foods.
The old stock of mulberry-trees growing in the
United States since 1838 must now be classed as
wild trees. The varieties of these trees which pro-
duce smooth white fruit — without bearded seeds —
are available for cuttings and grafting; and thus
SILK-PBODUGINa FOODS. 13
Utilized may produce good results. Any of these
trees (except the paper mulberry) may, however, be
used as food by beginners, and until standard food
can be secured and grown.
Seeding. — One ounce of seed properly sown
will produce about 5,000 trees.
Sowing of mulberry-seed should be done between
the first of April and the first of July. Put the
seed in blood-warm water, and let it soak twenty-
four hours before sowing. Sow in drills two to
three feet apart.
Drills must be carefully pulverized; and a small
furrow, an inch deep, should be run in each drill,
for receiving the seed. Ground should be prepared
by plowing first in the fall and again in the spring:
it should be stimulated, but not with heatino- nia-
nures.
Cultivation. — The seed-drills and very young
plants must be protected from frosts by covering
with leaves, straw, or matting. If the weatlier is
dry, water every other day or once or twice a week
with barnyard drain or soapsuds, always before the
rising or after the setting of the sun.
If the plants come too thick, trim them when the
size of a goosequill, and put them two or three
inches apart. They must be weeded, watered, and
tilled. The second year, prune off all small branches
up to a foot from the ground; and cut off entirely
all that are poor or grubby.
Transplanting.— When the seedlings are eighteen
14 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
inches high — generally the second year — transplant
to nursery, hedge, or dwarf orchard. Do not injure
the roots. Plantation standards are transplanted
from the nursery when four to eight feet high.
Reproduction. — There is no absolute assurance
of reproducing a particular kind or variety from
seed. The seedling varies more or less, — is not pre-
cisely the same in kind as the parent. A particular
or definite variety of mulberry can be perpetuated
without any variation only by grafting or by cuttings.
But this is true of fruit-bearing trees generally.
Cuttings. — Make cuttings nine to twelve inches
long, with four to six eyes; bury two-thirds of each
cutting, leaving two eyes out, twelve inches apart,
in furrows three feet apart. Plant in spring in
northern silk States, and in either spring or fall in
Southern States. The large old trees of Morus Alba
— that which yields a smooth v:hite fruit without
heards upon it — afford cuttings which, by careful
cultivation or ffraftins:, make excellent and standard
food-trees. "Water cuttings in dry weather, and keep
clear of weeds.
Pruning. — June is the best season for pruning,
when the young twigs which are taken off can be
given to the worms.
Grafting. — The very finest tree and the highest
perfection of food are in mulberry, as in other fruit-
trees, attainable only by grafting or budding.
Nursery. — The ground should be well prepared,
and well manured.
SILK-PRODUCING FOODS. 15
Kun rows six or eight feet apart, and transplant
seedlings one foot apart in the rows, and press the
earth closely around.
When the plants spring, strip off the side buds,
except such as are necessary to form tlie heads of
trees. If tlicy do not shoot well tlie first year, cut
them over in the following March about seven
inches from the ground.
Hedges. — The white mulberry forms an excellent
hedge. Cattle must not be allowed free access to it
while young ; but after it has become a good fence,
the more it is broken and lacerated by cattle the
more impenetrable it will become, as every broken
branch immediately sends out half a dozen shoots,
till the bush forms a perfect bramble. This makes
a perfect fence, supplies food for silkworms, and
keeps the trees so low that the leaves may be gath-
ered by children.
To MaJte the Hedge. — Take seedlings or cuttings
two years old, and set them in the spring one foot
to eighteen inches apart on the fence-line. Cut off
the tops four to six inches from the ground. Leave
two buds opposite each other, and remove all the
rest. The next spring cut off one of these two
branches in such a manner that each plant may
have a long one and a short one. Height, form, &c.,
may afterward be regulated according to fancy by
cutting the branches and feeding the silkworms
with them.
16 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
OBCHAEDS.
Dwarf Orchards. — Transplant seedlings when
two years old six feet apart. An acre will thus
contain 1210 trees.
Form the crown of the trees by trimming down
about one foot from the ground.
In the third and succeeding years do not trim
until after gathering the leaves.
For a few years vegetables may be cultivated be-
tween the trees with advantage to the orchard.
standard Orchards. — For standard orchards
set trees, from the nursery, twelve feet apart, in the
fall. An acre will thus contain 302 trees. Along
fences, which are kept well cleared, trees may be
planted even six feet apart.
For immediate work one hundred to one thousand
MoTus Jajponica, three to four years old, should be
planted in the fall. Each hundred of such trees
will feed a half ounce of eggs (20,000 worms) the
next spring; and one ounce of eggs (40,000 worms)
the succeeding spring. Increase the orchard by
cuttings, seedlings, &c. Cultivate vegetables between
the trees till the limbs nearly meet. Meantime ma-
nure well.
Hedge Orchards may be planted on good ground,
well manured, and thoroughly cultivated, in the fol-
lowing manner.
Plant trees of one year's growth in rows six feet
apart, each tree three feet from the next in the same
row. Thus an acre, or 43,560 square feet, will con-
jSILK-fiioducijvg foods. 17
tain 2420 trees. In their third year each tree will
yield about two pounds of leaves (or 4840 pounds
per acre), and this quantity will be doubled annually
till the eighth year.
Third year's yield, — 4,840 pounds leaves.
Fourth " ' " 9,680 " "
Fifth " " 19,360 " "
Sixth " " 38,720 " "
Seventh " " 77,440 " «
Eighth " " 154,880 " "
Thus an acre of ground in Moi'us Japonica would
yield 1548 pounds of reeled silk, which at the low
average valuation of $5 per pound is worth $7,740.
Streets and Parks. — Cities and towns may
adorn their streets and parks with mulberry as
shade and ornamental trees; and these trees may
be the means of turning many a hovel into a co-
coonery, and making the poor, aged, and infirm
self-supporting and contented.
Churchyards and Schoolhouses. — As the mul-
berry makes beautiful shade-trees, its cultivation
around country churchyards and schoolhouses will
afford opportunity for pastors and teachers to im-
prove the material as well as the spiritual and in-
tellectual condition of tlieir parishioners and pupils.
Public Highways. — In parts of France the
roadsides are planted with mulberry-trees, and
rented annually at auction. The income is sufficient
to keep the public highways in repair, and is thus
advantageon sly appropriated.
18 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTUBE.
The Hardiest Trees are i\\Q Nigra and Tartarica.
These are used in Nebrasl^a. The liardiest trees in
the mountain districts of Italy are obtained by graft-
ing Japonica, Moretti, Rosea^ or Alba, upon Nigra
and Tartarica. This combination produces good
food and hardy trees, — the best for colder latitudes.
LEAVES.
Yield. — Clark gives the following table of yield
of leaves from seedlings : —
Four years from the seed, — 4 lbs. of leaves.
Sixr " " " " 7 " " "
Eight " " " " 12 " " "
Twenty" " " " 150 " " "
Thus seedlings planted in dwarf orchard (1210 to
acre) in Morus Japonica will yield 4,840 pounds of
leaves the fourth year, being equal to 484 pounds
of cocoons.
G-athering Leaves. — Put on a bag-apron. Pass
the hands from the lower part of a branch to the
top, and strip the leaves upward, not downward, as
the latter would injure the buds. This should be
particularly observed. In short, the process requires
care to prevent the trees, especially young ones,
from being injured. In cutting off shoots or
branches use pruning-shears.
If you have hedges and orchards or plantations,
begin by pulling the leaves of the hedges; tlien
proceed to the young trees of the orchard. Such
branches as are stripped should be stripped com-
SILK-PRODUGING FOODS. 19
pletely; for if iiny leaves remiiin on a branch they
attract the sap, and the naked branch is unequally
nourished.
But strip only one third of the leaves from a tree
at one time when young, and one half when old.
Forcing Leaves. — It would be well to have a
strip of garden hedge in a southern exposure quite
near the house ; and cover it at night with matting
or carpet. This would force the leaves early; and
if your worms should hatch out before tne trees are
in leaf, this hedge would keep them alive, as at fii*st
they consume but little.
"Wet Leaves. — Never fued wet or damp leaves.
They should be gathered after the dew^ has gone in
the morning and before the sun sets at night.
Dusty leaves should bo wiped with a cloth before
feeding.
Renting Trees and Selling Leaves. — In vil-
lages and towns this can be easily done. Many
people who have uncultivated land would no doubt
be glad to plant trees for the purpose of selling the
leaves, if they knew there would be a demand for
them. In large cities, where one must go miles to
find uncultivated land, the cost of going or sending
for leaves to the raiser of worms would not make
this procedure practicable.
If one has only a city lot, he can plant trees on
the sidewalk, and perhaps get room for one or two
dwarf trees in the yard, which would furnish food
for amusement as well as experiment.
20 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTUIiE.
II.
THE COCOONERY, HOW TO CONSTRUCT AND MANAGE.
The Building. — An unused outbuilding or shed
mjiy be turned into a cocoonery, by proper altera-
tions.
Buildings erected for the purpose should rest
upon posts or brick pillars twelve to twenty-four
inches above ground, or upon cellars. Circles of tar
should be put around the posts and pillars to inter-
cept the approach of insects. Cellars are better
than pillars, as they make storehouses for the leaves
which have to be kept over night for early morning
feeding.
Size of Building. — The building or room for
feeding 40,000 worms should be about ten feet
wide, fifteen feet long, and nine feet between floor
and joists. For feeding 100,000 worms it should
be about sixteen feet wide, twenty feet long, and
ten feet between floor and joists.
Doors and windows must be protected by mos-
quito or wire nettings against winged insects, spi-
ders, etc.
Plan of Room. — There should be two or more
windows, on opposite sides; a ventilator in the floor,
and one in the roof, which could be closed at will.
The ventilator in the floor should be a square hole
eighteen by twenty-four inches, — the pieces nailed
together so as to close the hole tightly wdien desired.
ROW TO CONSTRUCT THE COCOONERY. 21
Meiiiitime the hole should be covered with fine wu-e-
cloth to keep out rats and mice, insects, etc. Three
feet floor-space should be allowed between the two
sets of racks, and in this space the floor ventilator
should be located. Therefore, the room should be
longer than wide.
The room must be void of furniture, and the floor
bare. The windows should let down at the top,
and have shades to exclude the direct sun-rajs.
The worms do not mind the light, but they sicken
in the sun. The room at all times must be well
ventilated, but drafts of air must never come directly
on the worms.
Space Required for Racks. — An ounce of eggs
requires thirty-two trays and two double or four
single racks. Double racks are six feet high, three
feet wide, and four feet long: single racks are
6X14X4 feet. Two double racks should be set end
to end together, and occupy twenty-four square feet,
— floor-space three by eight feet net. Three feet
more floor-space should be allow^ed about the racks,
to enable a person to walk around and distribute
food evenly. Single racks may set close to the walls.
Shelves may be used instead of racks, though
racks are better for regular work. -
The shelves should be eighteen inches deep, eigh-
teen inches apart, in rows six feet high, set near the
walls, running from end to end of the room. These
will economize space ; but they involve more danger
22 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
to the worms, from insects and changes of tempera-
ture, by being near the walls.
Temperature and Moisture. — A small stove or
fireplace should be in the room in readiness for cold
days, for the worms must be kept warm. Tem-
peratures which make you uncomfortable in very
thin clothes will make your worms uncomfortable
also.
When your hygrometer indicates a very damp
state of the atmosphere, straw or wood shavings
should be burnt to absorb the humidity, and replace
it by the external air, which is dried by the same
blaze. I have said blaze, and not fire, for two reasons.
With two pounds of shavings or dry straw there can
be attracted from all points toward the chimney a
laro-e body of air, which issues out at the flue of the
chimney ; while in the mean time the air is replaced
by a similar quantity of exterior air, which spreads
over the room and revives the silkworms. This
chano-e of air may take place without effecting any
material variation in the degree of heat in the room.
If, on the contrary, i\\\vk wood were employed, it
would require more time to remove the interior air,
ton times more fuel might be consumed, and the
room wonld be too much heated.
When wood shavings or dry straw can not be had,
small sticks of light wood may answer.
If you use a stove, the door of the same should
be left open as soon as the fire is burning briskly.
At no time after hatching should the temperature
now TO CONSTRUCT THE COCOONERY' 23
in the cocoonery fall below seventy-five or rise above
3ighty-five degrees.
If the temperature rise higher than eighty-five
degrees, reduce it by sponging or mopping the floor
frequently.
If you have no hygrometer a plate of salt will do
as a tolerable substitute, as the salt will grow damp
when the room is damp.
A pound of copperas dissolved in a pail of water
will purify bad air or smell in the cocoonery.
Electric Conditions.— Dm-ing thunder-storms
and sultry weather unusual care must be given to
ventilation. Under no circumstances must all the
windows be closed. For this reason it would be
better to have wooden-slat shutters outside of the
windows, which will shed the rain and not exclude
the air.
During sultry weather it will be cooler by keeping
the shutters closed. In cool weather the shutters
should be opened.
Ants. — As a precaution against them, the feet
of the racks may be set in water. The mulberry-
leaves should be examined to prevent ants being
brought in on them.
Rooms in Dwellings.— If it is not possible to
build a cocoonery, then a room in the house should
be cleared out, and turned into one. An attic-room
will answer in many cases; but it must be perfectly
clean and thoroughly ventilated.
24 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTUME.
Cocoonery Rules. — At the beginning of each
season, or crop, —
1. Scrub the floors very carefully.
2. Whitewash the walls.
3. Cleanse trays and frames which have been
used by singeing them as you would singe a fowl,
or wash them in a solution of sulphate of copper;
and put new coverings upon the trays.
4. Throw chloride of lime on the floor, and plen-
tifully in the corners. Then tightly close the win-
dows and doors for twenty-four hours. Afterward
wash the floor again, and air the cocoonery.
While rearing, —
5. To avoid smoke, do not heat the cocoonery
with coal or undried wood, or let a fire be badly or
insufficiently kindled.
6. Before feeding, expose the food to the temper-
ature of the cocoonery for at least an hour, so that
it may not chill the worms.
7. Never sweep the cocoonery floor, but sponge
it to avoid dust.
8. Renew the frame-covers w'henever they become
much soiled by excrement.
9. Clean and air the trays every morning.
Covering the Frames. — Drive four small half-
inch brads along each end of the frames and six
brads along each side, and cover the frames w4th
tarlatan tightly drawn, for the first age or young
worms. Use tarlatan through the first age.
BOW TO CONSTRUCT THE COCOONERY. 26
At the close of the first age replace tarlatan with
mosquito-netting, and use netting through tlie second
age.
At the close of the second age replace mosquito-
Qetting with perforated cardboard, or strong, tough
paper.
The paper perforations should be round holes
ibout six-sixteenths of an inch in diameter and
about one eighth of an inch apart, — each sheet or
frame-cover having thus about 1500 perforations.
26 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
III.
EGGS, HOW TO KEEP AND HATCH THEM.
After you have planted good silk-food, the next
thing to do is to procure eggs. These are of a
brownish gray or slaty gray or greenish color, and
about as large as a grain of mustard-seed. The eggs
should be received between IS'ovember and May.
To Keep Eggs. — In order to preserve them till
hatching time, place them in a wire-gauze box,
tightly closed, and hang thera in a cool and well-
ventilated attic with a northern exposure, or a dry
ventilated cellar. If the wire-gauze boxes can not
be had, put them in a cloth bag; but suspend them
by wire, for rats and mice are very fond of such
food, and will take extra pains to get at it. It
is said that eggs put in a goosequill, and the open
end dipped in sealing-wax, will remain without
hatching for years.
Examine your eggs occasionally to see if insects
have attacked them, or if they have been affected
by mold. If the latter occurs, it shows that the
place they are in is too damp, and they should be
removed to a dryer atmosphere at once. The tem-
perature should be kept not above forty degrees. If
the temperature should rise higher than this before
the leaves are on the trees, the tin box containing
the eggs must be placed in a wooden box, and this
put in p.,n icehouse or refrigerator. Your butcher
EGGS, HOW TO KEEP AND HATCH. 27
will no doubt keep them for you in his ice-box for
a small charge. They should be hung up the same
as his meat.
Hatching. — As soon as the leaves are opening
on the mulberry-trees, the eggs should be brought
from a temperature of forty degrees to fifty degrees
for an hour or more; then to sixty degrees for
another hour; then to the hatching-room at seventy
degrees,— and here spread them out very thinly in
the trays. The temperature should be increased to
seventy-five degrees during the last days of the
hatch, and should be maintained until the hatching
terminates.
All this time there should be some ventilation,
but not drafts; and the eggs should never be put in
the sun's rays. A pot of water on the fire, shallow
pans of water set about the room, or the sprinldmg
of the floor, will facilitate the hatching. In France
a room with northeastern exposure is considered
the best for a cocoonery.
As the temperature rises the color of the eggs
passes successively through bluish violet, ashy, and
yellowish shades; and lastly they become more and
more whitish every day as the hatching-time ap-
proaches.
If looked at closely, one sees a black spot and
a brownish crescent extending along the circum-
ference. The black spot is the head of the worm,
which closely touches the shell: the crescent is the
body, which i? •■h-eMdy covered with little hairs.
28 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
When it leaves the ^gg^ the silkworm gnaws
throngh the shell on its side, never on its flat surface.
"When the opening is large enough, it breaks out
through it, head foremost, and immediately fixes a
thread of silk to any object it can reach, no doubt
in order to keep itself from falling. Sometimes the
opening is too small to allow of the head passing
out, and the larva is forced to come out tail fore-
most. At times, not being able to get its head free,
the worm very soon dies of fatigue and hunger.
On the first day but very few worms are hatched;
but on the second and third days ihe hatching is
very abundant.
Of these newly born worms three divisions are
made.
Hatches. — Worms born on the first day are re-
moved to another place or tray, and are called the
first hatch.
Those born the second day are removed and
called the seco7id hatch.
Those of third day are called third hatch.
Those of fourth da}^, if strong and lively, are
called ybwrz^A hatch. If they seem weak tliey had
better be thrown away.
These directions must be followed to insure even-
ness in molting.
All eggs not hatched after the fourth day had
better be thrown away.
Premature Hatching may be accomplished by
freezing eggs and then bringing them very gradually
EGGS, HOW TO KEEP AND HATCS. 29
to higher temperatures. But it involves risk of de-
generating the race. For grades of temperature see
"Hatching," page 27.
Feeding.— As soon as the worms are hatched,
pLace over them a frame covered with tarlatan, and
over this frame place the mulberry-leaves, on which
all the little worms congregate by crawling up
through the tarlatan. Then place the tray on a
table or in a rack.
The worms that after a while do not climb up
through the tarlatan are weakly and sickly, and had
better be destroyed.
They are given as a first meal tender leaves cut
into little pieces with a chopping-knife, similar to
coarse smoking-tobacco.
The knife must be perfectly clean; and tobacco,
or even tobacco-smoke, must not come near the
worms. All strong odors must be kept from
them; and one must be careful not to let any other
kind of leaves get in with the mulberry-leaves.
It is a fact well known and guarded against by
French and Italian culturists, that the leaves of
apple, peach, plum, and many other fruit-trees, will
kill the worms.
Changes of Food.— When necessity has caused
you to change the food from mulberry to osage
orange, or vice versa, do not change a second time.
•These changes are apt to hurt the worms, and stunt
their sirowth all through life.
30 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE
Quantity of Food. — An ounce of eggs should
produce 40,000 worms. Below is a table giving
the amount necessary to feed them until they
spin.
First age, 6 days, about 5 lbs. daily.
Second " 5 days, " 10 " " '
Third " 5 days, " 25 " "
Fourth « 6 days, " 60 " "
Fifth " 8 days, " 150 " "
Average quantity first age, 30 lbs.
Average quantity second age, 50 "
Average quantity third age, 125 "
Average quantity fourth age, 300 "
Average quantity fifth age, 1200 "
Total, 1725
About two-fifths of which is waste.
MOW TO BEAR SILKWORMS, 31
lY.
HOW TO REAR SILKWORMS.
The Ages. — The worm goes through molts, or
sleeknesses. The periods between these different
molts are called "ages," — there being five of these
ages, including the first after the hatching and the
last before the spinning.
The first period usually occupies from ^yq to six
days; the second but four or five; the third about
five ; the f om-th from five to six ; and che fifth about
eight days. The time from the hatching to the
spinning usually occupies about thirty days.
Molting. — The worm grows so fast that its skin
does not stretch in proportion to its growth, and it
bursts its skin. Hence the more it is fed the more
quickly it will molt.
Five or six days after the hatching they will com-
mence to molt. One may know^ this by their be-
coming torpid, and appearing like small bits of
rusty iron wire. At first a dark spot can be seen,
by the magnifying-glass, in front of the first joint.
This indicates the growth of a new head.
When its term of sickness is over, tlie worm casts
its old skin. It then rests twenty-four hours to get
new strength. As soon as the worm begins to move
about, give it a light meal of wild mulberry, if you
have it. Afterwards give the regular food.
In the operation of molting the new head is first
32 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
disengaged from the old skin, which is then grad-
ually worked back until entirely cast off.
If the worm is feeble the shriveled skin may re-
main on the end of the body, being held by the
anal horn, — in which case the worm usually per-
ishes.
First Age. — During the first age they are given
six meals a day of finely chopped leaves, taking care
to distribute their food to them as equally as pos-
sible. The first meal is given early in the morning:
the last at eleven o'clock at night.
The frames should be covered with coarse tarla-
tan during the first age.
FIRST AGE.
Before molting. After molting.
Second Age. — During the second age still cut
the leaves for the worms, but into larger pieces, and
proportioned to their size. During the day the room
should be kept a little warmer than at night. At
the end of this age they have only four meals a day.
The frames should be covered with mosquito-
netting at the commencement of the second age.
SECOND AGE.
Before molting. After molting.
Third. Age. — During the third age the number
of meals is kept to four, the first being given at four
HOW TO REAR SILKWORMS. 33
to ^WQ o'clock in the morning, and the last about
eleven at night. The leaf is cut into large pieces
or left whole, and distributed as equally as possible.
The net or paper is spread over the worms and
leaves; and when the worms have congregated on
the same, it is removed to clean paper or to the
traj, and the debris is burned.
One will be apt to find at this period worms that
have not strength enough to molt. They are larger
than those that have just awakened, and that have
not as yet eaten and are shiny. These must be care-
fully removed, for they vvdll soon die.
The frames are covered with perforated paper
at the beginning of this age, and used till the worm
spins.
THIRD AGE.
Before molting. After molting.
Fourth Age. — During the fourth nge do not
cut the leaves, but give them a great many more
leaves at once. The result is, the litter increases in
thickness, and the cleaning of the trays must not be
neglected. The molt that follows the fourth age is
the most critical phase in the life of the silkworm.
During their sleep they are a prey to the most acute
suffering, and are plunged into a state of lethargy
which resembles death. This molt lasts longer than
the other molts.
34 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
During this time the room should be kept very
well ventilated and the trays very clean.
It is when they awake out of this last sleep that
disease may break out. The yellow or fat ones and
the soft or indolent ones die easily.
Several persons have written me that they have
saved their i^icls: worms by putting them out of doors.
One lady unknowingly threw away some silkworms,
and they remained out in a heavy two-days' storm.
At the end of that time she found them alive and
well, and they afterward spun fine cocoons.
As ants, mice, and birds are always to be guarded
against, I would suggest a hanging shelf in an open
shed for all sick worms, with perhaps some netting
stretched about to keep away winged insects.
FOURTH AGE.
Before molting. After molting.
The worms at the end of the fourth molt are lean
and feeble. They must now have an abundance of
leaves every day till the beginning of the fifth age.
Fifth Age. — During the fifth age the worms be-
come large so quickly that on the fifth or sixth day
they are obliged to be moved away from each other
on the litter. The trays should be carefully cleaned
every morning on account of the enormous amounc
of excrement; and at the same time good ventila-
tion must be constantly retained.
HOW TO BEAR SILKWORMS. 35
Havino- attained full growth the worm is ready
bo go npto spin. It ceases to eat, turns yellow or
pearly white, and becomes transparent as a grape.
Up to this time the worm has never thought of
wandering away from -its food. Now it is seized
with an irresistible desire to leave its quarters, it
FIFTH AGE.
Eeady to go up and spin.
gets up, roams about, and moves its head in all di-
rections to find some place to cling on to. It now
looks for a convenient place to spin its cocoon.
How to Handle Silkworms.— Handle the
large worms with fiat, inch-wide cameFs-hair brushes,
or leaves.
Never take them up with your fingers.
When the small worms will not leave the old dry
food, press over them hghtly a soft plush brush or
very soft hat-brush. The worms will adhere to the
brush. The brush should then be lifted and shook
closely and gently over the fresh food, when some
of them will fail; others will hang by a silken
thread which thev always throw out when they feel
there is danger. ' The brush should then be passed
hghtly overUie leaves. This will detach them, and
cause them to stick to their new food.
36 * GUIDE TO SILK-GULTURE.
Spinning Branches. — Bunches of dry twigs
without leaves, or bunches of wheat-straw or broom-
corn, tied near the bottom, should be spread out
thinly in the form
of fans, so that
the air can circu-
late freely, and be
stood in the racks
' about the edges
of the trays.
There will be
lazy worms that
will not mount.
These should be
removed to anoth-
er place, and dry
branches placed in
their way. They
will soon mount
the branches and
begui their work.
The temperature
should be kept
SPINNma BRANCHES. T"' """^t ^'""'^
or ventilation be
given, but they should aU be kept as dry as possible.
AU excrement and diseased or dead worms should
be carefully removed.
Those that drop down while, spinning must be
earned out and placed with the lazy ones.
HOW TO REAR SILKWORMS.
3T
Spinning the Cocoons.— When the silkworm
,as mounted the branch to spin, it begins by attach-
ag, to numerous twigs, threads to support the co-
oon. These threads are afterward called waste silk.
^•eMP&mt
SPINNING BEANCHES ARRANGED IN THE RACKS.
After the proper space has been circumscribed
by this means, the worm begins to disgorge or spin
its thread, which is continuous, and from six hun-
dred to eight hundred yards in length.
It has been calculated that sixty thousand cocoons
would suffice to surround the earth at the equator
with a thread of silk.
38 OUIDE TO BILK-CULTURE.
Folded on itself almost like a horseshoe, — its back
within, its legs without, — the worm arranges its
thread all aromid its body, describing ovals with its
head. Its head is said to complete sixty-five ellip-
tical motions a minute — or a total of three hundred
thousand — in making a cocoon, discharging the
thread at the rate of four to six inches a minute.
About the fourth day, after having expended all
its silk-fluid, the worm, shut up in its cocoon, be-
comes a waxy wliite color, and swollen in the middle
of the body. The abdominal legs wither away; the
six fore-legs approach each other and become 1)lack ;
the parts of the mouth tend downward; the skin
wrinkles. Yery soon it is detached and pushed
down toward the hinder part, and the chrysalis
appears under the rents in the skin. It is first white,
but speedily becomes of a brown red, and remains
in a pupa state from fifteen to seventeen days.
In three days from the commencement of spinning
the silkworms finish their cocoons, and in five to
eight days they are ready for picking.
The cocoons should be large, heavy, and well
sliaped. The good ones are regular, their ends are
rounded, and they are hard and have a fine grain.
The best are drawn in toward the middle, or have a
concavity on either side, that is, peanut-shaped.
MAGES, VARIETIES AMD VALUES. 39
Y.
RACES, VARIETIES AND VALUES.
Migratory Effects. — Migration and varied do-
mestication have had the effect of producing nume-
rous varieties of the silkworm, every different climate
into which it has been carried having produced
either some changes in the quality of the silk, or the
shape or color of the cocoons, or altered the habits
of the worm.
Individuals of the same race exported to a aozen
different localities would, in all probability, soon
present a dozen varieties.
AniiTials and Polyvoltins. — Some races pro-
duce but one brood in a year. Such are known as
Annuals, Annuals are the strongest and hardiest,
and are preferred in France,' Italy, and Europe
generally, where they now use, with great success,
what are known as the Pyrenean, Cevennes, Yar,
Milanese, and Houmeliam (Adrianople) varieties.
Experiments, taking into consideration the size of
the cocoon, quality of silk, time occupied, hardiness,
quantity of leaves required, etc., have proved the
Annuals to be more profitable than any of the Poly-
voltins, although Pivoltins are often reared.
Those kno^vn as Bivoltins hatch twice in the
com'se of the year : the first time, as with the An-
nuals, in April or May ; and the second, eight or ten
days after the eggs are laid by the first brood. The
40 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
eggs of the second brood only are kept for the next
yejir's crop, as those of the first brood always either
hatch or decay soon after being laid.
The TrivoUins produce three generations an-
nually.
Quadrivoltins produce four generations a year.
Some Quadrivoltins molt but three times instead of
four, especially in warm countries.
Color and Size. — Varieties are also known by
the color of the cocoons they produce, as Greens,
or Whites, or Yellows; and also by the country in
wliich they flourish. >
The white silk is the most valuable in commerce;
but the races producing yellow, cream-colored, or
sulphur-colored cocoons, are generally considered to
be the most vigorous.
The three most marked and noted European va-
rieties are the Italian breed, producing small yel-
low cocoons; the French, producing large yellow
eocoons; and the Turkish, producing large white
cocoons.
There are two principal Japanese Annuals, — one
producing white and the other greenish cocoons,
and known respectively as the white Japanese and
the green Japanese Annuals. These cocoons are
by no means large, but the pods are solid and firm.
Both varieties are about of a size, and are almost
always constricted in the middle.
The white Chinese Annual resembles the white
Japanese, but is not as generally constricted.
BACES, VABIBTIES, AND TALUKS. 41
K. French and Turkish, yeUow. B, Italian, wMH
C, Turldsh and French, white.
D, Japanese, green and white. E. Chinese, white and yellow.
42 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
Weight. — The large cocoons of the French and
Turkish varieties are estimated to average 300 to a
pound (stifled and dried), and to yield 133 pounds
from an ounce of eggs.
The small cocoons of the Italian, Japanese, and
Chinese varieties are estimated at 450 to a pound,
and to yield 89 pounds from an ounce of eggs.
Relative Values. — Estimating §10 to be the
highest standard price, or the maximum mercantile
grade, for a pound of reeled silk produced from any
race, the relative values of the regular distinctive
varieties are about as follows: —
Best Turkish (pure white), . . . §10.00
Best French, Y.OO
Best Italian, 6.75
Best Japanese, 5.75
Best Chinese, • . 5.00
Grades and values are determined by color, sinew
of thread, and skill in reeling.
The white Turkish can not be classed as a reg-
ular variety, because it is very difficult, in rearing,
to prevent pure white cocoons from being soiled.
Hence their cultivation is not general, is confined
exclusively to experts, and the product is compar-
atively limited.
GATHERING, STIFLING, AND PACKING. 43
YI.
GATHERING, STIFLING, AND PACKING COCOONS.
Gathering.^ The gathering should be com-
menced about five days after the worms have begun
spmning.
The finest, largest cocoons, should be selected for
eggs; and these must remain in the branches eight
or ten days.
The others should be carefully taken from the
branches, with all their floss.
The loose, ra-ged floss, should then be taken from
the cocoons witli great delicacy, to prevent the co-
coons from being flattened or bruised. The en-
velope-floss— a little loose case that envelopes the
cocoon— must remain on to keep the cocoons
clean.
Sorting the Cocoons.— This should be done
at the time and by the person who takes off the
floss. The imperfect and soiled ones should be put
together, and the perfect, clean ones, should be
kept apart from them, as the clean ones will bring
higher prices. The black, soft, wet ones, should be
discarded.
Double Cocoons can not be reeled, but can be
sold with the pierced cocoons. Some use them for
reproduction. Others advise against it.
Stifling.— When the cocoons have been sorted,
unless it is desired to reel them innnediately or to
44 GUIDE TO BILK-GJJLTURE.
sell them green, they must be stifled to prevent the
chrysalides from emerging. This is done in various
ways. The processes commonly used comprise —
Steaming,
Dry hot air,
Charcoal fumes,
Solar rays.
Hot Air. — To stifle by dry hot air, the cocoons
should be placed in shallow perforated pans, and
these put in an oven with a temperature of two hun-
dred and twelve degrees, and allowed to remain
thirty minutes.
Care must be taken to prevent the temperature
from rising above this; for if the cocoons are the
least scorched, it hurts their value ver}^ much.
After they come from the oven they should be
spread out in a dry sunny room for several days.
Steaming. — The cocoons should be put into a
coarse bag or steam- stifler, and steamed for a half
hour over boiling water, the same as potatoes are
steamed. At the end of that time they should be
spread about two inches deep, on sheets in the sun,
and stirred four times a day until thoroughly dry.
It sometimes takes ten days to dry them.
Charcoal Fumes. — The cocoons must be placed
in a small, tightly closed room, detached from the
rest of the house, or hung in a basket or bag in the
top of a large box or liogshead with the bottom out.
A pot of burnhig charcoal must then ]>e prepared,
and the box or hogshead must be set over it, the
GA r BERING, STIFLING, AND PACKING. 45
earth banked up solidly around it, and allowed to
remain twenty-four hours. If a box or hogshead
is used, all seams or cracks must be tightly closed
with lead or putty.
The Italians sometimes put sweet-scented herbs
in with the burning charcoal, which gives the co-
coons a pleasant perfume. The cocoons, on being
taken out, should be spread in the sun for six to
eight days to dry, and should be stirred frequently.
"solar Rays.— In the tropic South the cocoons
can be stifled by spreading them out in the sun for
three or four days. But it is much better to have
large tightly closed glass-covered boxes in which to
place the cocoons. This will insure a greater heat,
and will stifle them more quickly ; and besides will
keep away insects. The boxes should be opened
three to four times a day long enough to stir up
the cocoons.
Precautions Against Cocoon Enemies. — Mice
and rats will gnaw holes in the cocoons to get to
the chrysalides. A mite attacks them while drying,
and a moth cuts the silk. To keep them away,
sprinkle gum-camphor among the cocoons.
Packing-Cases. — They should be made of light
pine, with horizontal partitions about a foot apart,
to keep the cocoons from being mashed. The par-
titions can be made of thin slats, each slat about
one fourth of an inch above the other, so as to pre-
vent much weiorht.
46 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
"Weighing for Market.— The box or case should
be weighed before packing. After the cocoons are
packed it should be weighed again, and a careful
memorandum made of both. You get paid for the
weight of the cocoons only.
How to Pack.— Pack the perfect cocoons, and
the imperfect and soiled cocoons, rather loosely, in
separate divisions or boxes, each kind to them-
selves. Compact them by shaking the box, not by
direct pressure.
The pierced and mashed ones can be packed as
tightly as they will pack, for these will be carded
and not reeled.
When to Ship.— Green or unstifled cocoons
should be shipped as soon as taken from the spin-
ning branches.
Stifled or dried cocoons, after ten or more days'
exposure to the sun's rays.
Pierced cocoons at any time.
Floss or waste at any time.
How to Ship.— Four pounds or less can be sent
by mail at one cent per ounce. Larger quantities
had better be put in wooden boxes and sent by
freight, especially for long distances. Shipments
at short distances, say two to four hundred miles,
may be sent by express. But express charges on
large boxes for long distances curtail the profits of
small culturists and beginners very seriously.
REPRODUCTION,
47
YII.
REPRODUCTION.
Stringing Cocoons. — When the cocoons selected
for reproduction have remained on the branches
eight days, they are taken
down, stripped of their loose
floss, and strung on a thread.
This is done by sticking the
needle lightly through the
side of the cocoon. The
greatest care must be taken
not to pierce or distui'b the
chrysalis inside.
When the strings are a
yard long hang them up
in a dry,
and well
wail
against the
moderately dark,
ventilated room.
Sexes. — Some say that
the male cocoon is smaller
than the female, depressed in
the middle, and somewhat
sharp at one or both ends;
that the female cocoon is
larger, more round and blunt at the end, and but
slightly (if any) depressed. Others again assert that
the sexes can only be told by weighing, — the female
weisrhins: the most.
STRINGS OF COCOONS.
48
GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
FEMALE MOTH.
Mating, or Coupling. — From twelve to iiiteen
days after the worms spin the cocoons the moths
will begin to appear. They come out from four to
eight o'clock in
the morning.
The sexes are
easily distin-
guishable. The
female is quiet,
sluggishjand has
a large body, full
of eggs. The
male is smaller,
its wings are
tinged witli gray,
and it flutters
them constantly.
The very mo-
ment the male
moth comes out
he goes in quest
of the female, and they will in most cases mate
immediately.
As soon as mated lift them by their wings and
put each pair on a clean sheet of paper or cloth, or
in a cell of the mating-box, in a darkened room,
with a temperature of about seventy degrees. They
should remain mated or coupled six hours. If any
should become uncoupled too soon they must be
put together again or given a new mate or removed.
MALE MOTH.
MEPRODUGTION.
49
as the male will make such a noise with his wings
that it will disturb the rest and cause others to be-
come uncoupled.
As the domesticated silkmoth can not fly, some
■jiay be so far apart that they can not couple. In
oiich case bring them together.
MATING BOX.
If you have more males than females keep the
extra males in a perforated box — for the next day
you may have more females than males. If it should
happen that your females outnumber your males
the first day, use the liveliest males over again, as
soon as they uncouple, for the unmated females.
The uncoupling should be done with care. Catch
the male and female by the wings with the thumbs
and forefingers, and press the abdomen of the male
with the middle finger, and they will uncouple
easily.
50
GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
Cells for Laying Moths. — These cells are sec-
tions of thin unbleached cotton, three by four
inches. Pass a string througli the top and hang
them across the cocoonery. As soon as the female
A CELL, EGGS, AND MOTH PINNED LN" CORNER.
moths have been separated from the males, place
each on one of the squares and darken tlie room.
Yery soon the female will eject an egg covered with
a viscous hquid which causes it to adhere to the
cloth upon which it falls. Then she lays a second
BEPMODUCTION. 51
eo-g; by the side of the first, then a third by the side
of the second, and so on. She rarely piles them
upon each otlier.
The laying lasts for about three days, and each
female averages 350 eggs. As it takes 40,000 eggs
to make an ounce, 120 cells will give a very lair
ounce. Wlien the number of eggs laid by each
moth is uniformly large or bountiful, 100 cells
make an ounce. Or the cell may be weighed
before the moths lay, and then weighed again alter
the moths have laid. An ounce can in this way be
weighed accurately.
The moths live from eight to twelve days, and
eat nothing. As soon as their mission is ended,
throw them away or feed them to the chickens. _ .
After the moths have remained on the cell six or
seven days, take them down. It is well to pm a
moth in the corner of its cell now and then, so that
they can be examined by the Pasteur system for
Eggs— When they are first laid they are of a
brio-ht yellow color. Those unimpregnated remain
yeUow; those imperfectly so, reddish; and neither
will produce worms. The good eggs in a fortnight
will turn brown; then they change to a reddish
gray ; then they become a slaty gray, and remain so
till nearly hatching-time.
Some bivoltin and trivoltins' eggs never turn very
dark, as they hatch out in about fifteen days after
being laid.
52 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
The Pasteur System is an examination of the
moth by microscopic process. In France and Italy
the worms are frequently diseased. In this country
no disease has yet appeared. But as a precaution
agamst disease, it is well to pin a moth now and
then on its cell, so they can be examined. The
moth is kept for two or three months, then rubbed
to powder, and the powder examined for the dan
gerous fungi. Eggs laid by diseased moths must
be thrown away.
For instructions in regard to keeping eggs see
chapter on "Silkworm Eggs, How to Keep and
Hatch Them," on page 26.
REELING AND SPINNING, 53
YIII.
REELING AND SPINNING.
Baw Silk and Reeled Silk— The distinction
between raw silk and reeled silk is perfectly well
defined, and the difference in fact is absolute. It is
an erroneous and thoughtless use of language to
confound the two commodities under one name.
One bears the same relation to the other as raw
cotton does to spun cotton or cotton yarn.
When cotton is first gathered from the stalk it is
called seed cotton, as it still has the seed in it.
When it has been ginned,— that is, when the seed
are extracted,— it is raw cotton. When it has been
carded and spun, it is cotton yarn or spun cotton.
When cocoons are first gathered from the branches ^
they are green cocoons, or seed silk. When they
are stifled or pierced they are raw 5z7^,— which in-
cludes, specifically, dried and pierced cocoons, waste,
and floss. When the dried cocoons are reeled, and
four to ten strands or filaments have been spun or
twisted into one thread or yarn, it is reeled silk or
grege; so also is the waste and floss when carded
and spun.
What Heeled Silk Is.— Ben. F. Peixotto, U.
S. Consul at Lyons, France, in his official report to
the Department of State, at Washington, October
22, 1881, says:—
"Eaw [reeled] silk, that is to say, silk as reeled
from the cocoon and imported for the use of our
54 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
silk-mills, is really a manufactured article; and
moreover an article the value of which depends very
largely upon the excellence of the manufacturing
processes through which it has gone.
'•The filature (reeling) of silk comprises three
operations, each requiring considerable skill and
great care to produce good silk. In the final opera-
tion of reeling, the grege, or reeled silk, is made.
" Fine as it is, a single thread of silk is formed of
from four to ten or more separate filaments, each
derived from a separate cocoon.
"To reel the silk the cocoons are put into hot
water, and the filaments from several of them being
united by being pressed together adhere to one
another because of a natural gum with which they
are covered and "which is softened by the hot water.
The thread resulting from the union of these fila-
ments is then wound on a reel, the cocoons each
paying out its filament until exhausted.
"The reeler's business is to form this thread of
silk and to keep it as regular as 2^ossible in size by
adding new cocoons to the running thread as re-
quired. It is extremely difiicult to reel with reg-
ularity, — only the best reelers, working w4th the
greatest care and under the most favorable con-
ditions, succeeding in making an extremely even
thread.
" Now the degree of regularity has a great influence
upon the price of silk. For example, China silks,
which are produced from exceedingly good cocoons.
REELING AND SPINNING. 55
are not regular in size, which fact alone affects tlieir
price to a very considerable extent per pound, ac-
cordino; to the market.
^'Up to the present time it has been extremely
difficult to test the regularity of silk. So difficult
is it that silk has been and is yet bought and sold
very much according to the reputation of the estab-
lishment at which it has been reeled, it l)eing impos-
sible to judge exactly of the regularity of any silk
until made up into goods, at which time any defects
show and mar the beauty and value of the fabric."
Hence reeled silk is not raw silk, though it is
commonly called "raw." It is as much a manu-
factured article as cotton yarn. Indeed it passes
through more processes, and requires more highly
skilled labor and more delicate machinery for its
production.
Technical G-rades of Reeled Silk. — Reeled
silk is classified into organzine, tram, and floss.
Organzine is closely spun or twisted, and is the
best. Tram is made from inferior cocoons, and is
more loosely spun or twisted. Floss is made of the
loose silk carded and spun like cotton or wool.
Nearly every silk-crop, as raised by individual
growers, contains three or four grades of cocoons,
and to produce good and uniform silk these must
be separated, and each sort reeled by itself, pro-
ducing several grades of silk. This is difficult for
those who attempt to reel their own cocoons; and
for this reason, and because of the advent of im-
56 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
proved machines, hand-reels, and single basins, have
been nearly abandoned in France and Italy, — the
women finding it preferable and more profitable to
sell their cocoons.
"Therefore," says Consul Peixotto, "it is clear
that the object of the silk-culturist should be to
raise and market as good a crop of cocoons as pos-
sible, to the best advantage and at the least possible
expense and risk."
The Process of Reeling. — The persons em-
ployed in reeling silk are mostly women, one stand-
ing or sitting before each basin, of which she has
entire charge. The basin is made of copper, and,
in the large establishments, the water in each
basin is heated by steam, at the control of the op-
erator. The cocoons are plunged into the water
when it is near the boiling point, and moved about
so that the gum which fastens the threads becomes
uniformly and thoroughly softened. They are then
beaten with a small birchen broom, having the tips
split, so that the loose threads readily fasten to
them. After beating a short time, the operator
gets all the cocoons fastened, and, taking the bundle
of threads, shakes the cocoons till each hangs by
but a single one.
She now takes up five or more threads (brins),
according to the quality of silk wanted, unites them^
and introduces the combined staple or strand {JH}
into a little glass eye on one side of the basin. She
then forms a second similar strand and introduces
REELING AND SPINNING. 57
it into a second eye on the other side. The strands
are then brought together, twisted several times,
separated above the twist, and introduced into two
other glass eyes or ringlets, through which they are
led, one to each end of the reel or tambour, which
is kept revolving in a steady, rapid manner, and to
which is also given a certain back-and-forth side
motion.
The great object in reeling is to get the threads
uniform, rounded, well joined, properly freed from
moisture, and so crossed on the reel that they will
not stick or "glaze," as it is termed. These objects
are attained by the twisting and the to-and-fro lat-
eral movement of the reel, as also by pro-nerly reg-
ulating the distance between reel and basin.
The uniformity of the thread depends on the skill
of the operator, who must supply a new thread as
soon as one begins to give out. This is called
nourishing the silk, and is done by dexterously
casting with the thumb the new thread upon the
combined strand, to which it immediately adheres.
In this she must use much judgment, for the silk of
a cocoon gradually gets lighter and finer as it ap-
proaches the end, and the uniformity of strand does
not entirely depend on the uniformity in number of
the individual threads forming it.
Whenever the silk rises in locks the temperature
of the water is known to be too hot; and when it
unwinds with difficulty the temperature is, on the
contrary, too low.
58 GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
The operator is supplied with a skimmer with
which to remove all chrysalides and refuse silk;
also, with a basin of cold water in which to cool
her fingers, which are being constantly dipped in
the hot basin.
This constitutes the whole operation of unwind-
ing; but before the skeins, as they come from the
reel, are ready for the manufacturer they must un-
dergo still further manipulation.
The staple is first passed through a cleanser, con-
sisting of a clasp lined with cloth, which catches
any loose silk or other matter that may be adhering
to it. It is then further cleansed and purged by
being passed through four similar cleansers, then
twisted about five hundred times to the yard, then
doubled and again twisted about four hundred
times to the yard. It is finally run on to reels
about one and a half feet in diameter, and taken
off and twisted in a hank.
Through all these operations the oscillating
to-and-fro lateral motion is kept up, so as to pro-
duce the diagonal crossing of the strands; and it
will be readily understood that each staple is in the
end composed of several of the simple threads first
spun by the worm.
The loose or floss silk, together with all that
which, from one cause or another, can not be reeled,
is soaked in water for three days, boiled for half an
hour in clear lye, and wnshed in rain-water: when
dry, it may be carded and spun.
REELING AND SPINNING. 59
Spun Silk. — Hon. John Ryle, of Paterson, N. J..
the pioneer of silk-weaving in the United States,
and who declares himself "an earnest advocate for
the introduction of silk-cnltui^e,'' says: —
"We have all the requisite varieties of soil and
climate to produce silk in great abundance, and
with as little effort as it can be produced anywhere
in the world. My views are not in accord with
those of the parties at present engaged in attempt-
ing to reel silk, — believing, as I do, that it wdll be
some time before w^e can attempt, with any prospect
of success, to reel silk in America. My plan is to
raise cocoons and sell them to the manufacturers of
spun silk, and be content with tliat branch of silk-
raising which produces the most money for the
smallest amount of capital and labor."
60
GUIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
IX.
SILK-CULTURE REQUISITES.
One may begin silk-culture without anything ex-
cept trees and eggs. If one desire to enter into it
as a permanent industry, or as amusement, and to
secure out of it the highest profits and convenience,
all or many of the following articles will facilitate
operations : —
Bag Aprons, for gathering leaves, are sunply
large aprons in the form of a bag reaching from
the waist to the feet.
TRAY AND COVERED FRAME.
Camel-hair Brushes for handling worms should
be flat, and about one inch wide. See page 35.
Egg-boxes.— These must be made of perforated
tin; and the perforations must be so small as to
prevent the intrusion of any insect, and so numerous
as to aiford perfect ventilation.
Frames fit into the trays, and are made of strips
of light wood, half an inch square, similar to slate-
SILK-CULTURE BEQUISITES. 61
frames, having a crossbar from side to side in the
middle. Covered frames are the receptacles of
food and feeding-places of the worms. See "Feed-
ing," page 29.
Frame- Covers. — The most economical covers
are made of tarlatan, mosquito-netting, and per-
forated paper. These cost but little : the first two
can be cut and attached by any one, and the third
can be bought very cheaply. They can be easily
changed whenever they become soiled.
Hygrometer is an instrument to indicate the
moisture of a room ; and can rarely be had except
in combination with a thermometer. But no well
regulated cocoonery should be without it. A plate
of salt may answer fairly as a substitute.
Leaf- cutters are kitchen chopping-knives, and
have one, two, or thi-ee blades.
Magnifying G-lasses are used for observing the
worms, particularly in hatching and molting.
Mating-Boxes are one and a half by two feet,
about an inch and a half deep, divided into com-
partments about two and a quarter inches square,
and covered by a snugly fitting wire-screen lid. It
is for keeping each couple of mated moths apart
from others and undisturbed. See page 49.
Pruning-knives are knives with curved blades,
such as gardeners use for pruning trees.
Shears are gardeners' shears, such as are used
for trimming hedges.
^2 GUIDE TO SILK-GULTURE
Racks or Shelves.— Eacks are better shelves;
are cheaper. See page 21.
SmGLE KACK.
Sponges.— It is better to use a small sponge in
cleaning the trajs, and a large sponge for mopping
up the floor of the cocoonery when the temperature
is too high. See pages 23 and 24. When sponges
are not easily obtained, use cloths and mops.
Stiflers.— These are for destroying the chrysal-
ides. The best use steam or hot air. They can be
liad adapted to gas, kerosene, or common stoves.
SILK-CUL TUBE REQUISl TES. 63
When hot air alone is used care must be taken to
prevent scorching of the cocoons.
United States Yice-Consul Griffitt, of Smyrna, in
his report on "Silkworm Cultivation,"of July 5, 1882,
says : "The steaming process is far preferable to any
other ; the silk is not injured thereby, as it is apt
to be by baking or exposure to the sun. I steam
them twenty minutes, the water constantly boiling
and this I find sufficient to destroy the chrysalides.
I then place them in thin layers to dry."
Charcoal fumes are simple and effective. So are
solar rays, intensified by glass covers. See page 43.
Thermometers are to indicate the temperatm-e
of the cocoonery. Any size will do.
Trays are shallow boxes about one and a half
inches deep, one and a half feet wide and two feet
long. They should be made of thin, well-seasoned,
light, inodorous lumber. The bottom should be
tongue-grooved and glued.
64:
QVIDE TO SILK-CULTURE.
X.
INDEX,
A
PAGE.
Ages, The 31
Age, First 32
Age, Second 32
Age, Third 32
Age, Fourth 33
Age, Fifth 34
Air, Hot, for stifling 44
PAGE.
Alba, Proper 10
Alba, Moretti 10
Alba, Rosea 10
Annuals 39
Ants, precautions against.... 23
Aprons, Bag 18, 60
Bag-aprons 18, 60
Bivoltins 39
Boxes, Egg 26, 60
Boxes, Mating... 48, 61
Branches, Spinning 36
Brushes, Camel-hair 35, 60
Building, Size of 20
Camel-hair Brushes 60
Cases, Packing 45
Cells for Laying Moths 50
Changes of Food 29
Charcoal Fumes 44
Churchyards and School-
houses 17
Cocoonery, How to Con-
struct and Manage 20
Cocoonery Rules 24
Cocoons, Spinning 37
Cocoons, How to String 47
Cocoons, standard Grades.... 42
Cocoons, standard Sizes 41
Cocoons, Sorting 43
Cocoons, Double 43
Cocoon Enemies 45
Cocoons, How to Pack 46
Color and Size 40
Conditions, Electric 23
Coupling, or Mating 48
Covering Frames 24
Cover Frames 60
Cultivation 13
Cutters, Leaf 61
Cuttings 14
D
DriUs 12 I Dwarf Orchards.. 16
Dwarf Mulberry 12 I Dwellings, Rooms in 23
INDEX.
65
E
Eggs
Egg-boxes....
Eggs, How
Hatch
,51
.60
to Keep and
Elata, Morus 10
Electric Conditions 23
Enemies of Cocoons 45
.26
Feeding.
.29
Fifth Age 34
Foods ^
Food, Changes of 29
Food, Quantity of 30
Fourth Age 32
Frames "^
Frames, Covering the 24
Frame-covers 60
G
Gathering Cocoons 43
Gathering Leaves 18
Gathering, Stifling, and Pack-
ing ... 43
Glasses, Magnifying 61
Grafting
.14
Hardiest Trees 18
Hatching 27
Hatches 28
Hatching, Premature 28
Hedges 1^
Hedges, to Make 15
Hedge Orchards 16
Highways, Public 17
Hot Air for Stifling..... 44
How to Handle Silk worms.. 35
How to Pack Cocoons 46
How to Ship Cocoons 46
Hygrometer.
.61
Japanese Race 9 1 Japonica,
Morus.
Knives, Pruning 61 [ Knives for chopping Leaves. 61
Laying Moths, Cells for 50 ] Leaves, Wet 19
Leaves, Forcing of 19 Leaves, Yield of 18
Leaves, Gathering of 18 Lettuce 12
Leaves, Selling of 19 | Leaf, Choppers 01
GUIDE TO SILK-GULTUnE.
M
Madura Aurantiaca 9
Magnifying Glasses 61
Market, Weighing for 46
Mating-boxes 61
Mating, or Coupling 48
Migratory Effects 39
Moisture and Temperature... 22
Molting 31
Moretti 10
Morus Alba 10
MorusElata 10
Morus Japonica 9
Morus Moretti 10
Morus Multicaulis 11
Morus Nigra 11
Morus Rosea 10
Morus Tartarica 11
Mulberry, Black 9
Mulberry, Dwarf 12
Mulberry, Paper 12
Mulberry, "White 9
Multicaulis 11
N
Nigra, Morus 11 | Nursery 14
O
Orchards, Dwarf 16 I Orchards, Standard 16
Orchards, Hedge 16 I Osage Orange 11
P
Pack, How to 46
Packing-cases 45
Paper Mulberry 12
Parks and Streets 17
Pasteur System 52
Plan of Room 20
Polyvoltins 39
Precaution against Ants 23
Precaution against Cocoon
Enemies 45
Preface 5
Premature Hatching 28
Process of ReeUng 56
Pruning 14
Pruning-knives 61
Public Highways 17
Quadri voltins 40 | Quantity of Food .
R
.30
Races, Varieties, and Values. 39
Racks, or Shelves 21, 62
Racks, Space required for... 21
Rays, Solar 45
Reeling and Spinning 53
Reeled Silk, Technical
Grades 53
Reeling, Process of 56
Reeled Silk, What it is 53
Relative Values 42
Renting of Trees 19
Reproduction 14
Room, Plan of 20
Rooms in Dwellings 23
Rosea, Morus 10
Rules, Cocoonery 24
INDEX.
67
Schoolhouses and Church-
yards 17
Second Age 32
Seeding 13
Selling of Leaves 19
Sexes 47
Shears 61
Shelves 21, 62
Shelves, or Racks 21, 62
Ship, HoviTto 46
Ship, When to 46
Silk-culture Requisites 60
Silk-food Trees 9
Silk, Raw 53
Silk, Reeled 53
Silk, Reeled, grades of 55
Silk, Spun 59
Silkworms, How to Handle. 35
Size and Color 40
Size of Building 20
Solar Rays 45
Sorting the Qncoons 43
Sowing 13
Space Required for Racks. . .21
Species 9, 41
Spinning-branches 36
Spinning Cocoons 37
Spinning and Reeling 53
Sponges 62
Standard Orchards 16
Steaming Cocoons 44
Stifling Cocoons 43
Streets and Parks 17
Stri nging Cocoons 47
Tartarica, Morus 11
Technical Grades of Reeled
Silk 55
The Ages 31
Thermometers 63
Third Age. 32
Temperature and Moisture... 22
Transplanting 13
Trays 63
Trees, Hardiest 18
Trees, Renting of 19
Trivoltins 40
Yalues,Varkties, and Races. 39 I Varieties 39
Yalues, Relative 43 I
W
When to Ship Cocoons 46 | Weighing for Market 40
What Reeled Silk Is 53 I Weight of Cocoons 42
Yards of Thread to each I Yield of Leaves 18
.Cocoon 37
NEW YORK SILK EXCHANGE,
(Incorporated 1882).
To Silk Culturists.
The (.lemaud for Eggs, Trees and Seed is so large that it
is impossible to guarantee sufficient supplies for next
season unless you send us your orders immediately.
Orders must give New York City reference or be accom-
panied by cash, (postal order or check or registered letter.)
Cash orders have preference, and are guaranteed to be
filled as soon as goods arrive in New York.
Ordei-s giving reference will be advised upon receipt of
European invoices, of the amount required to cover said
orders, ind cash must be remitted upon receipt of such
advice.
No goods shipped C. O. D.
EGGS.
We shall supply, unless otherwise ordered, the French
(Pyrenean or Var or Cevennes) Annuals, warranted abso-
lutely free from disease, being obtained through the Pasteur
system.
The Pyienean and Cevennes races are the hardiest, and
best suited to the Middle, Eastern and Western States,
having proved very successful in those States. These pro-
duce t lie large "peanut" shaped, straw-colored Cocoons.
They must be transported between Nov. 1st and March
31st — in some parts of the country as late as 1st of May.
To Keep them till hatching time, place them in a cool
cellar in a small tin box punctured with many small holes.
To Hatch them, bring them into a warmer place as soon
as the Mulberry or Osage Orange trees begin to leaf out.
They will hatch in one to four days.
To Feed and RE.\Ktliem, seethe 'Complete Guide
TO Silk Cultuke," by L. Capsadell.
PRICE OF EGGS.
Best, imported, guaranteed, . $4 per oz. ; 25c. per 1000.
Best American, . . $3.50 per oz. ; 20c. per 1000.
Boxes for transporting and keeping eggs, each . 10 cts.
To those Avanting to go into Silk Culture, but who have
not the means, the Exchange will sell lands upon easy
terms.
Q
SILK-FOOD TREES.
Osnge-Oraiige '^vill produce silk ;ind pay a fair profit.
Use it if you have no other. But we advise — for higlier
profit^to acquire better food while j^ou are learning to be-
come expert in tlie culture.
The American AVhite Mulberry is better. The large old
trees of this variety yield cuttings which produce excellent
food. Plant trees*^ in fall 12 feet apart for nurseries. 4 to
6 feet apart if in a continuous row along the fence. They
can be planted in hedges. Dwarf trees may be put 6 feet
apart in good ground. Plant cuttings in spring; make cut-
tings 9 to 12 inches long, with 4 to ej'es ; bury § of each
cutting, leaving 2 eyes out, 12 inches apart, in furrows 8
feet apart.
If you plant out 100 Morns Japonica. 8 to 10 feet high, in fall, rhej-
will feed half oz. of eggs (20.000 worms) next spring; and they will
feed one oz. of e^gs (40,000 worms) the succeeding spring. One oz. of
Pyrenean eggs will give about 135 lbs. of cocoons. ^leantime j'ou can
be increasing the orchard by cuttings and seedlings.
One acre will contain about 302 trees, set 12 feet apart each way.
PRICES OF MULBERRY TREES :
Cuttings of Alba, Rosea, and Moretti, per 10.0, $ 0.90
Seedlings " " " 1 to 2 ft. high, 4.00
Trees, grafted, Moretti, 3 to 4 ft. high 8.00
Alba. Rosea, Moretti, 8 to lO'ft. high, . 28.00
Japonica. 8 to 10 ft. high, 30.00
Cuttings and small trees can be sent by mail.
Postage packing and cartage extra.
Note. — Morns Albn, Rosea, Moretti and Jnj)onicn are the
best silk producers; Japonica yields 1 lb. of silk to 10 lbs.
of leaves, Alba, Ro.sea and .Moretti yield each 1 lb. silk to
14 lbs. of leaves. France and Italy have discarded all other
trees for Japonica.
PRICES OF MULBERRY SEED :
Morus Alba $3.00 per lb. ; 25 cts. per oz.
Rosea 4.00 " 35 cts.
Moretti, 5.00 " 45 cts.
Seed in drills. Trees grown from seed should be grafted.
Silk Culture can be conducted profitably wherever any
kind of Mulberry trees or Osage Orange will grow; and the
best varieties will grow almost everywhere in the United
States.
3
SILK CULTURE AS A HOME EMPLOYMENT.
There are thousands of women who are unable to labor
in shop, field or factory, and have no means outside of
their household duties of converting labor into capital.
Tliere are tliousands of others who are forced to live in
idleness, or to go further, paint bad pictures, write poor
sketches, drag their lives out teaching, or marry uncon-
genial husbands for the sake of a living. And there is a
sentiment that it is a species of degradation to a young
girl or woman to "go out" and work — but she will toil
at home till her e,yes grow dim.
Silk Culture, for all these people, is an easy money-
making employment at home, as it requires but a small
amount of la1)or and capital, and is peculiarly adapted to
the delicacy of skill and care Miiich every woman natur-
ally possesses.
HOW TO BEGIN SILK CULTURE.
No special buildings are required, as a room in the
house, attic, stable or shed (with some care as to temper-
ature and ventilation,) Avill do for a cocoonery, and after
the Mulberry trees are planted an oz. or so of silk-worm
eggs and a small book of instructions are all that are
needed for a start.
Silk Culture does not interfere with domestic duties.
Neither need the growing of trees interfere with the grow-
ing of vegetables, as the trimming sj^stem keeps the trees
so dwarfed they throw but little shade, and will grow bet-
ter by cultivating vegetables intermediately.
Use Osage Orange or the American White Mulberry, to
begin, as these trees are ready grown in many parts of the
United States; but plant out a few of the Morus Alba, or
Rosea, Moretti, or Japonica at once, and increase the number
from year to year until you can abandon the inferior plants.
Use nothing but the best Eggs, and acquire the best Trees as
soon as you can.
YOU WILL NEED TO BEGIN :
About I oz. Eggs, say $2 00
1 Tray and two frames (as models), . .about 1 35
Yoix can make additional frames and trays as needed.
Perforated paper for 20 frames, about 1 00
Lumber and nails for Racks or Stands to
hold Trays, about 75
$5 00
4
SILK CULTURE IS A PROFITABLE EMPLOYMENT.
In I he lower Southern States three crops can be raised a
season, two in the upper Southern States, and one in the
Middle, Eastern and Northern States, each crop taking
five to six weeks. Each crop will yield from $300 to $800
for every acre of land planted in Mulberry trees, accord-
ing to the care and skill bestowed.
Trivoltins are required for three crops, bivoltins for two crops.
These are Eastern or Japanese races, are more delicate and less silk
productive than the Pyreneaii race, which \%q.x\. n7inunl. 'Y\\e atifiuai
is the standard in France, where one certain large crop is considered
better than two or three doubtful smaller ones.
Can any fruits or vegetables bring better returns, — or
should any one go needy when such resources lie at the
door ?
It has also been demonstrated that silk raising will abso-
lutely pay better with light labor than cotton or rice or
sugar or tobacco with heavy labor.
PRICrS OF REQUISITES :
Double Racks for 16 trays, each $12.00
Single " 8 " " .. 9.00
1 Tray and 2 Frames, as models, 1. 25
Floor and Tray Sponges, each 25c. and up
Tarlatan Frame covers, " 5c
Netting " " " 5c
Perforated paper, " '• 5c
Boxes for shipping and preserving eggs, each 10c
Bag Aprons, each 50c
Camel-hair Brushes, all sizes 50c. and up
Pruning Knives, each 50c. to 1.50
Shears, " 90c. to 2.50
Leaf cutters, " 25c. and 50c
Thermometers, " 25c. and up
Thermometer and Hygrometer eombincd., 4.00
Magnifying Glasses, 2 lenses 60c., 90c. and 1.25
3 lenses 90c., 1.10 and 1.40
Mating Boxes, wooden bottoms, wire-gauze lids, 2.00
Patent Steam Stiflers No. 1, holding 8 lbs. Cocoons,. 3.75
" No. 2, " 12 " . 5.00
No. 3, " 16 " . 6.00
" No. 4, " 25 " . 8.00
SILK-CULTURE FACTS.
Cities and Towns may adorn their streets and parks
with Mulberry, turn hovels into cocooneries, and make
their poor, aged and infirm self-supporting and contented.
Clergymen may find recreation and profit in Silk
Culture. The Mulberry makes beautiful shade trees for
village and country churches, and will afford opportunity
for pastors to improve the material, as well as the spirit-
ual, condition of their parishioners.
Teachers can supplement their income greatly by
raising Silk Worms during vacation. Prof. Jas. Johonnot
is making Silk Culture a special topic of his Institute
lectures before teachers thoughout the State of New York.
He saj^s that, as the schools generally (except in large
cities) close early in spring, this vacation employment of
six weeks will, in very many cases, pay more than all the
winter's teaching.
Taxation is reduced by whatever increases national
tvealth. National wealth is simply individual prosperity.
Silk Culture is the only industry applicable to every indi-
vidual. It brings money to the humblest "hewer of wood
and drawer of water," the farmer's wife and daughter, the
brown-armed son of toil, teacher, scientist, clergyman,
alike. It is peculiarly The People's Industry.
Nationally f it is estimated that there were 25,000
people engaged in Silk ('ulture in the U. S. last year, and
50,000 will be engaged in it next year; and that, supposing
our 50,000,000 population comprises 10,000,000 producers,
Silk Culture may transfer (women, children and old men,)
10,000,000 from non-producers to producers. Whatever
doubles the producing power of a nation doubles its wealth.
Silk Culture enabled France to discharge a war debt quicker
than so large a debt was ever paid by any other nation.
Years ago Silk Culture was attempted in this country and
much money was lost because there were no mills to con-
sume the silk. Now there are 380 silk mills in the United
States. Two-thirds of the raw silk which they use is im-
ported, for which thirty-five million dollars are annually
sent abroad. Silk Culture can retain all this money at
home and put it at once into the pockets of farmers' wives.
There is no reason why the entire demand of the mills
should not be supplied by cocoons produced here.
SUGGESTIONS TO SILK-CULTURISTS.
Charlatans, — Some unprincipled parties and so-called
"associations" and "companies," taking- advantage of tlio
novelty and newness of the industry and its undefined
prices' have been charging for Eggs, $40 per oz. or $1 per
1000, and even as high as $160 per oz. or 40c. per 100 !
And similar prices for trees and requisites ! Such prices
are exorbitant and extortionate. Compare them v/ith our
quotations. Such outrages should occur no more.
Hoiv to Increase the Profits. — The experience of
France, Italy, Japan, China, etc., should be applied here
with Avatchfulness. The precise processes of one country
will not apply in detail to any other country. We have
in the United States newer lands, more primitive soil, more
viU'ied climates, and purer atmospheres — the. chemical qua-
lities of life Avith less vitiation — than any other Silk pro-
ducing country. The Exchange requests Silk culturists to
note their experiments and results and report same, how-
ever simple they may appear. It will gladly record, tabu-
late and distribute all such data, ,rapidly and freely. Thus
the Silk culturists of the United States may make swift
and profitable advances over the older Silk countries.
The United States brought cotton culture to its highest
profits. Why not advance Silk culture? What we know
of it assures large profits. Let us learn more and acquire
larger profits — and in the American Avay — quickly.
llie JP?*ess.—Vv''hile realizing that the recent and re-
peated references to Silk culture by the newspaper press
are in the public interest, the Silk P^xchange thanks Edi-
tors none the less for presenting the topic so fully, and es-
pecially for the uniform courtesy and kindness which it
has received at their hands. Neither Silk culture nor any
other culture can advance in a Republic like ours without
the approval and encouragement of the press, and the Silk
Mxchangf: respectfully solicits the attention of Editors
i!!id the co-operation of every periodical in the United
States in behalf of this New Industry for the People.
The Silk Exchange, in acknowledging the prac-
tical encouragement which it is daily receiving,
assures it patrons that it is pushing its connec-
tions and establishing agencies in the United States,
France, Italy, Japan, China, etc., with all possible speed,
and will meet every demand of the export and import trade
of Silk Culture.
n
THE COMPLETE
GUIDE TO SILK CULTURE.
By L. C^ APSADELL, Sec. N. Y. Silk Exchange,
Price 25 Cts. A Reliable
MANUAL FOR SILK-CUL TURISTS
AND
TEXT BOOK FOR SCHOOLS.
Comprehensive, brief, acciirn,te, tliorough and
practical.
L Silk-Food trees niul How to Raise them.
IL Cocoonery, How lo Construct and Manage.
III. Eggs, LLow to Keep and Hatcli them.
IV. How to Rear Silk Woi-ms.
V. Races, Varieties and Values.
VI. Gathering, Stifling and Packing Cocoons.
VII. Reproduction.
VIIT. Reeling and Spinning.
IX. Silk-Culture Requisites.
X. ^ndex.
Mailed post-pai