- y CENTENNIAL ADDRESS, DELIVERED AT TRENTON, N. Y, July 4, 1876, JOHN F. SEYMOUR, WITH LETTERS FROM FRANCIS ADRIAN VAN DER KEMP, Written in 1792, AND OTHER DOCUMENTS RELATING TO THE FIRST SET- TLEMENT OF TRENTON AND CENTRAL NEW YORK. UTICA, N. Y. White & Floyd, Book and Job Printers, cor. Broad and John Streets. 1877. *rx ^,v ~ v \^.x ^^ ^ i- 1 %iir tutelar genius, and as long as she goes hand in hand with commerce, as long both are encouraged and flourish and prosper, as long the gifts of a bountiful God are showered upon us with such a rich profusion, I cannot, no; let me say- more truly I do not envy, that other Nations share in His blessings which are not yet adapted to our present situation. As soon our treaty of commerce with Great Britain shall be concluded, then the bond of union between the brethren shall be consolidated, and the prayers and praises of both countries shall ascend to heaven. The western forts, so long withheld, shall then be surrendered, and the commerce of our State receive nourishment from hitherto forbidden springs. The State of New York, indeed, though not aiming at dominion over the sister States, possesses so many high prerogatives, that sh emay claim to be at par with the proudest, and if she does not imperiously pretend to her precedence, would humble herself too low could she stoop to carry the train of her fair sister. Our situation alone, if the products of the country were less valuable, would secure to this State an eminent share in our National Commerce ; with the Atlantic Ocean to the South, the Lakes Ghamplain, St. George, Ontario, Erie, with the river St. Lawrence to the North, with Canada in our rear, New England and the -Jersey's to cover our sides, the State seems rather to have been fashioned according to the modern system of arrondiss&ment than well by nature, ami yet the conqueror's sword did not give us one inch. It is our paternal inheritance. The produce of a part of the Jerseys, of a vast part of New Hampshire, Connecticut, the back parts of Massachusetts, with the State of Vermont, do find our emporium of New York, the most desirable, advantageous market. 54 Our inland navigation, superior to that of many, equal already to the best watered States in the Union, contributes greatly to the increase of our commerce. The North, or the beautiful Hudson River, which the British, during our last unnatural war, considered as the line of health, in proportion that they approached to or retreated from its borders, navi- gable to large vessels to Hudsou, 130 miles above New York, with sloops from eighty ton and more to Albany, 105, and many miles more high with bateaux and small rafts. This majestic river receives besides, numerous rivulets more or less navigable, above Albauy at the Cohoes — a cascade of 07 feet — the Mohawk river, meandering through fertile fields, from where he originates to the north of Fort Stanwix. It was here that in former days, before our late happy Revolution, the Mohawk Indians resided, from whom it mutuated his name. Although the Mohawk becomes navigable for bateaux at no great distance from the Cohoes, all merchandise, never theless, is thus far carried by wagons from Albany to Sche- nectadi, from whence these are conveyed in bateaux about one hundred miles, including one mile portage, at the Little Falls, via Fort Stanwix. Here is a carrying place of half a mile to the Wood creek, which empties its waters after it is joined by the Fish creek in the Oneida Lake, as handsome, as rich in fish as any Lake in the western world. Above Fort Brewerton its waters disembogue through the Onondaga and Oswego Rivers in Lake Ontario, paying all their homage through the St. Lawrence to the Atlantic Ocean. Our government, I am informed, has passed a law to clear the navigation from the Mohawk to the Hudson. If this is not correct, then it is a prognostication what it shall, what 55 it ought to do at a future time. So much is certain, that it is resolved to open the carrying place between the Hudson and Wood creek, and to clear the latter from many obstruc- tions : several thousand £ have already been consecrated by the Legistaturc to this salutary undertaking, while subscrip- tions for the deficit have been opened in Albany and New York with such a success, that they were filled in a few days See here then, my dear sir, an easy communication by water carriage opened between the most distant parts of this extensive commonwealth; sec the markets of New York, Albany and Schenectadi, glutted with the produce of the West, and the comforts of the South distributed with a lib- eral hand among the agricultures of this new country. The fur trade begins already to revive, shall ere long recover her former vigor, when the western Forts are surrendered, and if it remains shared as it naturally must, by the North Western Company, this seeming loss shall be fully compensa- ted from other branches, grafted in the wants and interests of the Canadians. But this is not all, sir. It is rather the breaking out of the sunshine thro' a morning fog in a charm- ing summer day. Fort Stanwix must become a staple place of the commodities of the West, stored there from the fertile lands bordering the lakes and rivers, and Old Fort Schuyler nearly the central part of intercourse between the North and West, transformed in an opulent mercantile city, where future Lorenzos will foster and protect arts and sciences, where the tomahawk and scalping knife shall be replaced by the chisel and pencil of the artist, and the wigwam by marble palaces. Do not think that I dream, Sir ! Fulto Si 'pero, quando si vuole. Our canals at the Falls, at Fort Stanwix open an early communication between the Lakes Outario and Oneida, which 56 is possible and can thus be executed, and a large part of the work is peracted. Go on then and dig canals through the western district, and be not afraid " that a single hair- shall be hurt on the head of its inhabitants by the waves of Lake Erie," Dare only to undertake the enterprise, and I warrant the success, — or do you deem it a more arduous undertaking as the canal of Languedoc ? and tins was performed. Do not answer 1 beg you — this was the work of the Grand Monarque. Have you forgotten the river, the Yssel, the fossa Drusiana ? this was the work of a Roman general and his army — and are we not, do we not pretend, at least to be the most enlightened nation on the globe ? Should then a Republican Government, rich in men and in wealth, shrink to accomplish what Louis XIV executed ? You were more sanguine when you did lead your patriotic eiti/eus against the Prussian myrmidons, at the Nieuwersluys, and you are too candid, not to acknowledge now, that your hope of suc- cess was irretrievably past. Give me the disposal of fift}- New York purses, give me only the credit of that city, and I shall do what others promised in florid speeches; or, art thou apprehensive, that the spell of your enchantment shall be broken, give me the Republican wand of Gains Popilius, and I will go to the water-nymph Erie and trace a beautiful canoe, thro' which her Ladyship shall be compelled to pay a part of her tribute to the Ocean through the Genesee Coun- try, engaging her a courteous attendance from lakes and creeks, to waif on Her Grace during this extorted excursion, and Leaving her the consolation of the Dorje of Genoa at the French Court " to admire no object but herself," during her course through our country to the Hudson River. Our agriculture is considerably improved, although much is yet wanted before it cau be compared with what is per- 57 formed in Europe. Nino tenths of our farmers possess often double and treble the land than which they can or pretend to cultivate. It is a too generally prevalent system, to be rather contented with the crop which the field spontaneously yields than to aim at a richer harvest, obtainable by a more indus- trious tillage. The example of the Pensylvanians, the thousands of New England men, who, Hocking- annually in this State, ameli- orate our husbandry, improve our stock, and transform our woodlands in productive fields, the creation, and if anything does — it deserves this name — the creation of an Agricultural Society at New York, a similar association at Albany, the the offered premiums to the largest produce of maple sugar, that blessing of heaven to the back countries, little inferior to thi' sugar of the West Indies, the encouraging acts of our Legislature in opening new roads, and other beneficial plans yet in embryo — all this united had altered our agriculture. How could it be any other way, my Dear Sir? There the richness of the soil pays tenfold our industy; there the cli- mate is temperate, mild, nearly as that in the Netherlands. The population is generally in our States, principally in New England — in this State, peculiarly in its western parts, baff- ling all imagination. A marriage without issue is a rare phenomenon — from five to nine is no unusual number of chil- reu — often a dozen or more. The fertility of our soil, principally in the Western Dia drict, where one acre often produces as much as three in any other part of the State ; our inland navigation; abundance of fish, of fuel, our well regulated State Government, maintain- taing everyone by his religious as well as civil rights; admit- 58 ting no privileged Church, nor loading an unbelieving herd with tapes for its support, have yearly whole shoals of New England men or Europeans to settle in this State or Pensyl- vania. Here the crops but seldom fail ; the long winters so fatal in the Southern States, are here seldom injurious, as the snow remains till the earth begins to be adorned again with a fresh tapestry. Wheat, corn, oats, barley, rye, potatoes with every kind of garden vegetables and orchard fruits, the water melon the cantaloup, the grape not excluded, arrive in the western and often in the northern parts of this State to perfection. The increasing population, the rag.* of speculation in land, by Americans, Dutch, and Englishmen, double actually the value of the lands. An acre sold four years since, from 1 to 6 shillings is now valued at ten. I speak of woodland ; cul- tivated farms have risen from £4 to G, and this price is doubled in the neighborhood of villages. Every family does increase the value of the adjacent uncul- tivated lands and five and twenty of the hundred farms, sold at, one. dollar iter acre, augment the price of the remaining 7-"> to sixteen shillings, while the sale of 25 more, the soil being equal, doubles it yet four or five times. The western parts of this State, Sir, are now generally considered, as its richest and most valuable part, which spurs every fore handed man to appropriate a part of it to himself or his children. It is nevertheless to be regretted, although this hindrance is compensated again by some great advanta- ges, that few individuals become owners of such immense tracts by which as soon they have made some flourishing estab lishments, they are enabled to increase the price of the remain- 59 der, arbitrarily ; but here, too, avarice betrays often the pos- sessor. The prudent landholder blends the public interests with his own, -reaches in both his aim, becomes his benefac- tor of a country, which repays him with usury; is their father, who are delighted in his welfare and opulence, and obliges his country by multiplying its useful citizens, aug menting the products of the land, and increasing the wealth of the State. Justice requires, as I hinted, the disadvantages of a few great landholders, owning more acres of land than many Princes and Dukes in Germany, that I mention the favour- able side of this question. They open generally with enor- mous expense, the roads, erect mills, make liberal advances to the honest industrious settler, and make his payments easy. Besides, a few of these have resolved to settle in the wilderness, and allure, by their example, many respectable families to press their steps. All this shall, 1 hope, dear Sir, convince you that the western parts of this State shall be settled within a few years, that the actual owners of the land must become inde- pendent, and that every industrious family which invests her small property in a good farm, if it continues to exert itself must, under God's blessing, ere long be at ease and alii ue nee. I am yours, Fr. Ad. Van der Kemp. Kingston, 19 July, 1792. Kingston, July 27, 1791 My Dear Sir- — 1 asserted, when I had lately the pleasure of seeing you, that 1 did not boast when I assured you in my last letter, that the western counties were the best part, and 60 would be, ere long, the must potent part of our State in every sense of the word ; that it cannot fail, or every judicious land- holder in the Western District, who is acquainted with the value of his lands, who knows when he may sell, and when his interest requires to put a stop to his sale, must acquire a considerable fortune within 2"> years; or, that every inde- pendent family, which makes a purchase there, and retains in reserves surplus, to supply it in the beginning with articles of the first necessity, and smooth the ruggeduess of their new career, by what the convenience and comfort of a family requires, may, within six years, be as much at ease, as in any other part of the State, and shall be plentifully rewarded by the fruits of their labors, and secure to their children, even during the life of their parents, an independent station. I might have said which I know could not be an induce- ment to you — that seats in both houses of the Legisla- ture, offices of honor and trust are of course alloted to men of any respctability, if this glitter has auy charms in their eye. You may recollect, Sir, that when I communicated to you my excursion to the western branch of the Delaware. I informed you of some particulars relating to the settlements of that part of our western world, which drew forth a few others with regard to Dutchess and Ulster county. These may be subservient to illustrate my assertions in favor of the west. The situation of Dutchess, now one of the most popu- lous counties, was fifty years past, not more favorable, than that of many parts of the Western District at present. Mr. Livingston, then clerk of that county, could scarce afford to keep a horse from the emoluments of his office, while now his annual perquisites exceed £700. 61 The families of Livingston, Beekrnan, Van Rensalaer, Van Courtland, Schuyler, in one word, all the powerful families of this State, merchants excepted, acquired their actual wealth and respectability by the purchase of new lands, and their judicious settlements on these. I should not have been sur- prised, my dear Sir, had a certain respectable family suc- ceeded in the purchase of Rosevelt's tract, or we should have seen ere long an elegant country seat on the banks of Lake Oneida, encircled at some distance, by well cultivated farms. You would have, fostered a similar opinion, with this difference only, that it would have been generally more favor- able as you were, during the last years of your residence in Europe, better inured by fatigues than your friend, could you, as I did hope, have' accompanied him on this journey. His excellency, George Clinton, thought so, and joined our. names together in all the letters of recommendation with which his kindness honoured me again, as he was wonted to do in former excursions. 1 remained long in suspense before I could resolve in what manner 1 should undertake the expedition, either with a sloop to Albany, then with a wagon to Schenctadi, and so ascend the Mohawk in a Bateau, or with a chair to Schenec- tady, or at once on horseback to Fort Stanwix : ease pleaded for one of the former, my preference was given to a chair; but the impossibility to obtain one here in any way, and the apprehension that the sloop and Bateau would require a vast deal of time, more than I could have alloted to this excur sion, made me at length resolve — although with reluctance, to go on horseback. Since 1773, when 1 asked my dismission the Dutch cavalry, I had not rode a horse, except in 1778 from from Alexandria to Mount Vernon, when I visited General Washington. Now it was a journey of nearly two hundred 62 miles. But I was resolved; my good neighbor provided me with a saddle, and other accoutrements of a cavalier — I risked to take one of my own horses — and proceeded slowly on. You are acquainted with all these parts so far as the house of the widow of Philip Schuyler, so that I cannot communi- cate anything deserving your attention. Now and then I ven- tured a few rods, but soon permitted the horse to resume his easy pace. About noon I had passed the Grooten Imbogt, about twenty miles from home, went on after dinner to Catskill, and took tea with Mr. Bogardus at the Lauding, which is indeed a very agreeable spot. The increasing population of the western country gave birth to this little hamlet on the North river. Several merchants from New England and tins Slate had established themselves ; last year their num- ber was augmented to twenty, and this year seventeen new buildings, houses and stores, were finished. The situation is indeed delightful on the banks of a large creek, and not far distant bom the North river, very well adapted for trading with the western couutry. The soil has nothing extraordinary to recommend it, neither was it chosen on this account by the first settlers ; their views were further extended; they did foresee, that even barren rocks, which by no means is the case, might, under the vivi- fying influence of commerce, render these a comfortable hab- itation. The inhabitants were chiefly respectable men, while the family of Mr. Bogardus peculiarly might have tempted you and me to fix our residence on that spot, could we have contemplated it, on our arrival from Europe, so as it now appears. Towards evening, I rode on to Cough Sagie and stopped at the house of John Bronk, persuaded after having travelled 63 forty miles at the first onset, that I could accomplish my put- pose. My supper was but indifferent — tea, bread and butter, with a bit of warmed mutton, but in full compensa- tion of it, the mistress of the house was very civil. Next morning, I went to Albany, where I met with a cordial reception from Dr. Marcius, whose hospitality, frankness, and amiable character, leave you scarce time to do justice to his professional merits. Every instant the decision of the elec- tion of a new Governor was expected, and, as the city was pretty equally divided between the two illustrious candidates, Clinton and Jay, a painful anxiety was legible in every coun tenance. At 8 o'clock, it was known with certainty that George Clinton was reelected for the sixth time. The joy of his friends was more moderate than might been conjectured from the ardent zeal with which they had patrocinated this high respected statesman, while the friends of Mr. Jay, spurred by the noblest motives in promoting his election with all their strength, knew too well their interests and duty to disturb it. This is the genuine spirit of Republicanism, but alas! too seldom listened to. In the morning the sound of guns proclaimed the Governors election to the neighborhood. On Friday morning, I rode on to Schenectadi, where I spent a few hours with the Rev. Romeyn, one of the most learned and eminent divines of the Reformed Church in this State, beloved by his Hock, respected by the most respectable in the State, as a man, a citizen and a Christian preacher. He communicated to me many important observations with regard to the soil, the stupendously increasing popula- tion of the western country, with its vast increasing strength. Without Albany, without the commerce of New York, contin- ued he pleasantly, the south of the State might soton become an appendage to the west. With a lively ecstasy he expatiated 64 on all its advantages, and gave me, with his usual accuracy, a picturesque description of the various settlements of the Mohawk. He praised the luxuriant fields on this river; dwelt with delight on the towns of German Flatts and Herki- mer; but Schoharie he called a terrestial paradise, and described its farmers amongst the wealthiest and happiest inhabitants of New York State. He assured me that fifteen hundred families passed by his house during the winter of '91, to various parts of the western lands; while I was after- wards informed by another credible witness, that during the winter of '00, within forty miles of the river-point, where the rivers of Onondaga, Seneca and Oswego are joined, had been counted 240 span oxen. I proceeded after dinner about twenty miles further; stopped a few moments at the ancient residence of Sir Wil- liam, now occupied by Mr. Jacob Cuyler, and remained at night on Trip's Hill, at Mr. Putnam's, six miles from Caugh- waga. On Saturday morning I breakfasted at Simon Veed- er's, Esq., rode on eight miles farther to Bankert's Inn and arrived about noon at the mansion of the respectable widow of Col. Phil. Schuyler, in Palatine-town. There I met with a cordial reception : Mrs. Schuyler appeared most interested in the welfare of Mrs. v. d. lv. and our John, who with us four years past had been entertained under her hospitable roof. 1 was again much pleased with her animated, intelli- gent conversation, and gathered more real information from a desultory discourse than I might have received from an elaborate discussion of a philosopher who had never seen the country. She informed me too of the best houses on the road. After dinner I crossed the Mohawk three miles above Pala tine-town, and did see ( 'auajohari, which name, although [ 65 cannot now interpret, yet I hope to have it in my powei after a while. You recollect that .sample of Canadian song Cani-de-jouve, cani-de-jouve, He, he, he, he, ha, heura, heura ou ce be, In the Diction. y Mi-. Hudzou, to drink a dish of superior good tea. It was my design to pro- ceed to Herkimer, as I was informed that I was to meet there a good reception, but my good horse was scarce able to lift one foot before the other; consider further that this good beast, by often going and returning, to examine one or other object a little more carefully by always pacing even ou the roughest road, was thoroughly fatigued ; that the sun was set ; that I was ignorant of the road, and, as you would say, not much to be trusted where I knew it; and that, above this all, Capt. Bellinger, the landlord of a homely tavern, en- deavored to persuade me that I ought to stay with him, because, he said, the horse could not proceed farther; that to-morrow if he might now recruit, it would make it up with a double speed. And then reflecting that the cavalier Longed for rest as much as his beast, you cannot be surprised that your friend yielded so soon to the urgent entreaties of that 4r — ^ — *-f-g — — »+a) — * — o-\-0 — m— m —m-\ Cani-de-jouve cani jouve g^N iJ > iiLu mm He, he, he, ha, heu G ra, heura ou ce be. 66 noble captain. My supper was not above mediocrit}' ; my bed and sleep of the first-rate. The hope of repairing my loss of the evening by a good breakfast, made me stir early, so that I arrived at eight at Mr. Aldritz, in former days another Indian castle. The respectable appearance of the landlord and his lady, their dress, countenance, manners, language, the. furniture, the neatness of the house, the order and promptitude with which the commands were executed, soon convinced me that my conjecture would not dwindle away in an airy vision. Good bread and butter, excellent tea, fresh eggs, with a dish of salmon trout, a sort of Euro- pean lorrel, worthy to be presented to the best man in the State, were more than sufficient to satisfy a craving hunger. Now was I in Herkimer ; crossed again the Mohawk ; paced slowly through the German Flatts, a beautiful plain, whose rich fertility must strike even the inattentive eye ; from the charming fields covered with all sorts of grain : here wheat, corn potatoes ; there oats, peas, bailey ; there again another variety of the same products, at intervals surrounded or separated with clover. These flatts, terminated from one side by the Mohawk, from the other by the rising hills, at whose bottom the farm houses and churches were constructed, maintain many thousand descendants of native Germans, who, searching a refuge from infatuated despotism, in this land of liberty, have chiefly preserved the maimers, language and religion of their ancestors. The same is true with regard to their neighbors in German-town and Herkimer — all of German origin, somewhat tempered with British, Dutch and American blood. Col. Staringh was the man by whom I intended to dine if it was obtainable. Although his honour was at the same time a Judge of the Common Pleas, thus high in civil and mil- 67 itary grandeur, yet he kept a public house, and my imagina- tion was soon highly inflamed when I glanced on his mansion and its appurtenances. The Colonel was gone to the meet- ing; his barn was the place of worship. I went thither; the assembled congregation was very numerous ; our Lord's Supper was celebrated with decency, and as it appears to me by many with fervent devotion. Four children were baptized by the Rev. Rosekrantz, of the German Flatts, who made this pastoral visit to direct these religious solemnities. After service the flock crowded promiscuously in the Colonel's house and used sparingly some refreshments. The large majority gloried at the renewed election of George Clinton, while the weighty principle of many was, " Now certainly the court house should be fixed there, as they had generally given their votes for George, while very many on the German Flatts, with the same motive, with the same hope, had been lured to vote for Mr. John Jay. So wantonly plays the multitude with that for every freeman so precious privilege of election : for traveling a mile, more or less, yea for thousand times more pitiful if not for more contemptible motives is nominal liberty transformed in actual slavery. I cannot see it, or I bewail the general state of mankind ! How divine is the theory, how difficult, how unattainable nearly the solid practice of a pure popular govcrment, except among a poor, virtuous class, within its family of brothers, as in Switzerland. We, my dear sir, paid dearly for our visionary schemes of perfection, and I do not yet regret it, as we found here liberty blended by laws, and so much aristocracy ren- dered constitutional that neither the one nor the many can do wrong for a long time, and so much democracy saved as to keep the remainder from degenerating and degrading herself; while I deem him a miscreant who abuses this good by G8 name, to spread a cloak over his nefarious, ambitious views till be sees the road open to crush the few and the many to- gether. May Adams' defence become a general school book, and his lessons brought in practice. The presence of the Rev. Pastor; the solemnity of the sacred festival ; the presence of the fathers of the baptized children, some of them related to the Colonel, procured me a good dinner. A very good soup, salad, roasted chickens, beef and pork, with bread and butter, were soon destroyed by fifteen or sixteen hungry guests. The Rev. Rosekrantz was born in the Dutch y of the Paltz-Tweebruggen, from a respectable family of Swedish origin. Endowed with a learned education he was not a stranger in elegant literature ; a serious preacher who knew the art to enliven society with a well regulated hilarity. At nine miles distance, near old Fort Schuyler, I crossed the Mohawk River for the last time ; took my tea at Mr. John Post's; reached Whitesborough about evening and stopped at the house of Judge White, the father of this Hour ishing settlement, to whom and Mr. Jonas Piatt, his Ex. Geo. Clinton had favored me with letters of introduction. I met on the road to Whitesborough a group of Oneida Indians, some of them on horseback, others walking and jumping; the one with a bottle, another with a jug or small keg with rum; for the most part merrily jolly : some deeply soaked by the beverage, distilled from the cane. Their num- bers increased in proportion as 1 approached nearer Whites borough. There 1 saw about two hundred, of every age and of both sexes, around their (ires near the road, eating, drink- ing, smoking, singing, laughing, all them in perfect har- mony together, though many a little before had tried their strength and agility upon one another. 69 The occasion of this unusual concourse was that they came to receive the corn from the State, which had been stipulated in one of the articles of the late treaty. But they soon changed this corn, certainly for a large part, by the mer- chants for money, which they changed again for chintzes silk, handkerchiefs, linen, &c. How longer and oftener I contemplate these Indian tribes, how more I am confirmed in my conjecture, which was sup ported by Buffon, " that the northerly inhabitants of Amer- ica, as well as a large part of those in the South, chiefly have the blood of Tartar origin in their veins." By this 1 will not say that none of the offspring of the Aborigines of this country are remaining, neither that the inhabitants of some j tarts may not be the offspring of savage tribes, driven before these Tartarian hordes from their Eastern seats on the con- fines of the North-eastern Asiatic shores, no more as I would contest, that a few islanders, even Norwegians, might have been induced or compelled to settle on the northern parts of the American continent. Manners, language, features, render it rather plausible : but to conclude for these reasons with Grotius, that stupendous wonder of learning, of whom might be asserted what Livius said of Cato " that his intellectual endowments were so extensive that he excelled in whatever he undertook, and seemed to devote himself exclusively to that science," that our country was colonized by Norwe- gians, and extort arguments from etymology, you might as well derive Alfana from Equus* * Alfana vient d'Equus, sans doute Mais, il faut avouer aussi Qu' en venant de la jusqu' iei II a bien change sur.la route. P. B&nhoar , s Mem. , who are willing to reap, but not in the sweat of their brow. II 74 The article of fish is scarce ; firewood has already become an object of so much importance that it is saved and sold to advantage ; and salt cannot be obtained below a dollar the bushel, I crossed about two miles from Whitesborough the Oris- kany Creek, where many of the Oneida Indians resided iu former days. The actual proprietors of the soil did long decline the sale ; the price was yet too low ; at length it hath risen to their pitch. Several farms have already been taken up. and the woods resounded when I passed there, from the strokes of the hardy axe-men : one year more, and the one farm shall be joined to the other, as here on tin. 1 Esoims-kill. I had onl}- advanced a few steps when my attention was i\xv<\ on a number of skulls, placed in a row, on a log near the road. I was informed by the workmen that this place was the fatal spot on which the murderous encounter hap - pened between General Herkimer and his sturdy associates, and the Indians, when this brave and gallant soldier did fall with a number of his men. He showed me a large tree, on which was coarsely carved, something resembling a man's head, which should represent this intrepid warrior. On Monday, about noon, I arrived at Fort Stanwix. The Baron DeZeng, industriously employed in laying out a kitchen garden, had already seen me, and gave me a cordial welcome. He then introduced me to Col. Colbreath, a revo- lutionary soldier, who fmdiug himself in the patronage of his old general, who resided on a part of the estate, which the governor possessed in this neighbourhood, he had offered the baron a part of his house till that of DeZeng should be cleared of its present inhabitants. We partook of some refresh ments— my horse was brought on a luxuriant pasture ground. See there me, my dear sir, at the famous Fort Stanwix, where Janzevoort baffled the impetuous ardour of the British and Col. Willet eluded their vigilance. See here me in the centre of New York State, the elevated spot from where the waters are flowing to the East and the West, chalked out, as it were by nature, to become the seat of government of this mighty State, while Fort Schuyler must gradually rise to the rank of the emporium of the West. Here is the [retreat] from the bustle of business, while the opulence and wealth is through various channels conducted to this great reservoir, to repay the inhabitants of its neighbourhood with those of the remotest North and West with ease ami comfort; there mag niticent buildings raised and a seat prepared for arts and sciences. The Baron DeZeng, a German nobleman, descends from a noble family in Saxony, and arrived in America during the revolutionary war. He was married to a respectable lady in New York, and did now intend to begin a settlement in this vicinity. He had engaged to accompany me on this tour, and I expected, as I really experienced, that he not only should be an agreeable companion, but very useful to me in many respects. The baron was so kind, to charge himself to purchase a grand canoe, engage two servants, and procure the required provisions for our voyage. As he had before rowed through tins wilderness he knew best what was wanting to lessen the hardships of a similar enterprise; and 1 must do him the justice, that he left nothing untried to procure every article which might render our journey more agreeable. A well made tent with a good carpet stood foremost on the list, and his spouse took care that a sufficient quantity of bread and 76 bincuit was prepared. While all this was brought in readi- ness, I had the satisfaction to explore the country ; examine the woods with the contemplated slate for the canal, to join the Mohawk with the Wood creek, and convince myself of its practicability. But this is only the dwarf, fixing his eyes upward to the gigantic canal, yet in embryo. The soils dif- fer little from that of Whitestown, except the summit of the highland, on which the fort is erected, generally not less fer- tile, often too rich for wheat, as the first crop; not free from baking-; several feet deep of the same unadulterated mould as the uppermost layer. By digging ten and twelve led often deeper, leaves, perfectly preserved, branches of trees, large pieces of timber, are discovered. I did see several sam- ples of all these, when a well was dug for ( !ol. < Jolbreath. Elm, ash, beech, heavy oak and walnut are in the upper part : on the lower ground, chiefly beech, maple and birch. As no apparent obstruction is visible, the canal may be executed nearly in a straight line Scarce a day passed in which not two, sometimes three, bateaux arrived, whose destination was towards the Genesee lands, Onondaga, Cadaraqui, or other parts of the Western District. We met daily with groups of five or six men on horseback, in search for land, with intention, if succeeding, to move on with their families the next winter or following spring; while every da)' one or other accosted us, to purchase lands of which we did not own one single inch. During the time I tarried here, a large bateau with furs, arrived from the West; two yoke of oxen carried it over the portage. This was the second cargo within one week. It may be conjectured from this single example what riches the waters of Oneida Lake may carry on to Koit Stanwix, if 77 every obstruction shall be removed. Now it makes a fortune to individuals ; then it shall become as productive to the Nation as a gold mine. We waited another day in the hope of a few refreshments, which I had procured at Schenectadi ; but at length our patience being exhausted, although DoZeng was possessed of a dee]) fund of it, nearly equal to that of your friend, we walked on Saturday towards Wood creek; saw our baggage stowed ; stepped in the canoe and pushed off Do you recollect, Mappa, how Remus vexed his brother Romulus, by springing over the ditches with which he had encircled the future mistress of the world ? Here certainly might he have indulged his whim with less peril. No Oneida Indian; no valiant American would have considered his country insulted by this process. The Wood creek, indeed, resembles at the landing place, rather an insignificant ditch than well a navigable stream. Ere long it is, never- theless, enlarged, and resembles very much the numberless inland waters by which our ci-devant Fatherland was inter- sected. We arrived at the distance of three miles at Fort Bull, or rather, at the place on which, during the war, a fort of that name was erected. The same fact I found after veri- fied, viz: places designated by names originating from forti- fications, constructed during the late French or the Revolu- tionary war. As we indulged ourselves from time to time, in angling, we hooked a few trout and several large chubs, without reflect- ing that the sun was setting; our lusty boys waded continu- ally t<> drag our deeply loaded canoe over rifts and shoals. At once the air was darkened, which was rendered of a deeper hue by the streams of lightning with which it was on 78 a sudden as embroidered ; severe peals of thunder re-echoed through the woods, and the increasing darkness became now visible. The boys were discouraged : DeZeng sprang at once out the canoe and inspired them with fresh courage, and your friend ? I trusted in their experience, and hoped their trial would be a short one; and then they might rest from their labours, while the Baron ought to pay some price of not possessing his soul in equal patience. Now we proceeded quickly and discovered after a few minutes a light in a small cottage. It was that of the widow Armstrong, on the corner of the Wood and Canada creek, seven miles from Fort Stanwix, the part of land where Rose- vrld's purchase begins, with which you and some of my best friends desire to become acquainted, and which, if 1 am not mistaken and disappointed in my wishes, may be once a goodly heritage, under God's Almighty blessing, for us and our children. As we are now engaged in drying our clothes by a good tire, and Mrs. Armstrong is preparing our supper and couches, 1 must allow you a little rest before I offer you my rough sketch of the skirts of that noble tract, once the heritage of the Oneidas, now the object of ardent longings of Americans and foreigners, who, by every licit and illicit means, by ex- travagant praises and unfounded slanders, endeavour to secure this possession to themselves; while some squatters have iixed themselves lien- and there on its borders; a tract which, in population and wealth, must vie in time with any part of the Western District. I am, yours sincerely. 79 Kingston, 1st August, 1792. My Dear Sir — Yon followed our steps, sir, through the meandering Wood creek, to the spot where the Canada creek empties in it, the residence of Mrs. Armstrong, thus far the hospitable patroness of that insulated spot. I really hope, my dear sir, that you may have been able to keep your attention awake, otherwise it must become ;i more than her- culean labour to drive the sleep from your eyes !>y a dry topographical description. I really am apprehensive that the wish of getting rich by the purchase of a few hundred thou sand acres of this land cannot make a sufficiently deep impression on your disinterestedness, even if your purse was in unison with such a wish. I hope at all events it shall not exceed a slumbering, not heavier than mine on horseback, awakening the instant when I was leaning half-way from the saddle : and in that case 1 am not without hope, or the fall of a heavy oak, the report of our guns, our cries of joy on a caught prey offish or deer, the lamentations and curses of our crew, and vwvy real or imaginary danger, shall break off the spell of the enchantment of some fair or malignant sor- ceress, and permit you to contemplate the residence of the beautiful Oneida Lake with admiration. H is a general observation with regard to this world, and I am yet wavering to decide if the name of New or Old is the most appropriate, that the most barren tracts are every- where near the sea coast ; that the most populous part of the fifteen States, which have been settled in the beginning, can- not be compared with the extensive fertile fields of the West and that their natural productiveness and riches are increas- ing m proportion that you penetrate deeper in the interior. Every traveller confirms this truth ; and every new settlement 80 affords so many incontestable proofs from the unusual produce of the fields as well as by the sudden increase of the lands, to confirm these reports. No man dared yet to contest this truth, except a few Ger- man inhabitants, on the rich borders of the Mohawk before the Revolutionary war, believing, in which they were con- firmed by the cunning artifices of their great landholders and crafty politicians, that their Paradise was surrounded by unsurmountable barriers, being no habitable spot above < lan&johari, impenetrable except by a savage's foot, except by British Canadians, who dreaded the neighbourship of Americans, except land-jobbers aiming at a cheap purchase l»y artfully underrating the land. The tract with which I would make you better acquainted, was purchased two years past, from the Six Nations, and begins at the Wood creek, where that of the Canada creek joins it. It has to the north-east Funda's purchase; to tin- south and south-west the Oneida reservation, the military lands, now beginning to be settled; to the north-west Lake Ontario; to the north the Great Salmon creek, from which it touches again Funda's purchase, in a north-eastern course. See here, then, the rough circumference of 700,000 acres. Consider, my dear sir, if I might err somewhat in a due course, and take the east for the west, that I am yet in the infancy of my geological expedition, and am ready to say Peccavi, Pater ; not, however, in that bewitching tone I heard you sing " Mon pere je devient vant vous." To prevent gross mistakes, and secure you of forming an erroneous opinion of my sentiments, I send you with this a pretty correct map, which, with the assistance of that of Gov. Pownall, may learn you in how far I was successful. 81 A simple statement of courses is sufficient to lay open the water communication with all the circumjacent lands ; by the Wood creek to the Mohawk eastward, and so on to the North river, through the Seneca river, south-west of the Oneida Lake to the Genesee lands, whose settlements are daily increasing; through the Onondaga and Oswego rivers, in Lake Ontario, through the St. Lawrence and the North river in the Ocean. Consider now further, sir, that the dis- tance of Fort Brewerton at the west end of Oneida Lake, near the mouth of the Onondaga river, is, in a straight line, only eight miles from the Little Salmon creek aud twelve from the great two principal landing places on Lake Ontario, and the distance from the centre of the lake near Bruce's creek is, in a straight course, no more than twelve miles to the same spot. The land is there not much broken, with few stones or rocks, so that few hands, as soon as the trees are chopped, might make a tolerable good road from the one lake to the other This land-carriage is of a vast, additional value; but no man can have seen the shape of the land and examined the Salmon creek from Lake Ontario, aud Bruce's creek from Oneida Lake, in their courses, and doubt yet the high proba bility of a water communication, of a short distance, between these two lakes. Join to all this — and this, my dear sir, is an encouraging observation — that the circumjacent tracts, as the Genesee lands to the south, Funda's, Steuben Oothout's patent, are already partially settled, and continue to increase in inhabitants, while the lots in the military lands are increasing daily in value. Is this not already a great deal, my friend ? 1 know you consider it from this point of view, and are already anticipate I 82 ing the time, that stores and magazines, villages and country Mats arc adorning the borders of Oneida Lake; and yet : how great this is, it is not all. Throw, I beg you, for a moment, a ciusory glance on the situation of this tract. 1 ought to have said : come and see, and believe. Towards the south you have Oneida Lake: that of Ontario to the north ; both joined by the Onondaga and Oswego fixers, and in these disembogue, besides a number of smaller creeks : the Wood creek, the Oneida creek, the Canada creek, the Fish creek. the Little Fish creek, the Black creek, Bruce's creek, the large and smaller Salmon river, and what is called the Fresh Lob- ster creek, from the numbers we caught here of this delicious crustaceous fish, even superior to the sea lobster, and as exquisite a dainty as those in Guelderland and the Duchy of ( ieves. which afford there such a sumptuous and palatable dish to the modern descendant of Apicius. Both Salmon rivers emptying in Lake Ontario, to the north of this tract of land and the Fish creek in Oneida Lake, are in the spring and fall, full of salmon. You may form of this assertion, a pretty accurate opinion, after I have informed you that one Oneida Indian took with his spear, f-jrty-tive salmon in one hour; another, in the presence of ('apt. Simonds, sixty-five during one night; and another eighty. They are equal to the best which are caught in the rivers of t lie Rhine and the Meuse, and might, if the time of fishing was limited by the Legislature, and what is more, its laws punctually obeyed and executed with rigor, become as beneficial to our country at large, as the salmon fishery of the Meuse, in Holland, from which the Fast and West Indies are supplied with this luxurious fish. Were the method of catching the salmon in luyks and smoking these intro- duced, as I advised several, with the offer of initiating them in 83 this mystery, Oneida Lake, with its tributary streams, mighl supply an abundant provision for all the States, the West Indian market, that of South America included. Persuaded of this truth, I wrote to our Dutch friends and obtained through my old Hon. friend,]). Eerbach, from a mer- cantile house at Schoenheren, the staple place as you know of this commodity, an accurate description of the mode ol catching, curing, smoking, through the whole process, and offered its communication to Mr. Stevens, at Fort Brewerton, and others, but it was not accepted — too much trouble ! too distant! too uncertain the prospect of gain ! no control ovei the Indian brethren! no encouragement by the Legislature- I do, nevertheless, not yet despair or a happier period shall arrive. The eel of the Oneida Lake is equal to the best of the Hol- land market, and far :urpasses every kind which 1 have evei tasted here, in size, in fatness, in tenderness of the fish. The Salmon river possesses beside this plentifulness of the finny cribe, another important advantage — our full laden bateaux may have access and recess to both. What a, potent lure, merchant! to Canadians, who now must purchase many articles at three and four times the capital higher from Quebec, than they may obtain these from the State of New York, They who pay at Cataraqui $3, and $3| at Niagara for one bushel salt, are often supplied with it at the Salmon creek, for five shillings, although even at Whitestown, Fort Stanwix and its vicinity, often is paid from eight to ten shil- lings. Here, too, in time, the price shall be lower : cut only canals, increase the salt work, and manufacture it to a, higher degree of perfection. 84 A bountiful God has, in this respect, too, provided for the wants of the western country with profusion. Everywhere are salt springs, and but few miles from Oneida Lake in Onon- dago is a copious salt lake, encircled with salt springs, the domain of the people of the State of New York. A consid- erable quantity is already transported to Canada, and thou- sand American families make never use of any other. How the copiousness must be increased when rock salt too is manufactured and carried to the South and West of our im- mense continent. How exuberant must it become, when that limestone crust through whose crevices it is now ascending shall be broken, and that vast body of solid salt discovered from which now a thousand springs through ages have been saturated. You perceive that I believe in the real existence of this subterraneous treasure, which, I presume, may be discov- ered without Jacques Aymar's Baguette, Divinatoire, and 1 have no less name than that of Leibnitz to procure credit to my supposition. He said, in his Protogea, "Sub terra, essecondi- toria salis, satis fontes aquarum salsarum doceat," which, as you have often heard, when in Holland, faithfully translated in our English language, is, " that there are repositories of sail under the earth, is evident from the salt water springs ;" but Home, says the proverb, was not, built in one day. What a time elapsed before the Chestershire salt springs were of any advantage ! What a time elapsed before the basket salt was brought to market, and how late was it that the rock salt was there discovered, from which now considerable quantities dug in large masses are now transferred to the west coast of England — melted in sea water, and again reduced in salt and used in the curing of herrings ; and how much must the value of this treasure be enhanced when the discovered coal mines are placed in the west at its side. 85 This country, so abundant in water and fish, is, if possible, yet more profusely endowed by our bountiful Maker with wood. Every kind of timber of the northern and eastern States, is hero in the greatest plenty and perfection : butter nut, walnut, white oak, sugar maple, chestnut, beech, black ash, pine, hemlock, the lime tree, white wood or canoes wood , and several other species. When I asserted that the most part of these were to be found in the highest* perfection, 1 always limit it to our States, as our timber is unquestionably inferior to that which is carried to the Dutch markets from the interior parts of Germany and the Baltic. Oak, pine and chestnut are chiefly found at short distances from the lakes — the remainder in a more fertile soil at some greater distance, the hemlock, fir and pine on more barren spots. The canals cannot be opened or the value of the timber must be raised. You know the scarcity of white oak and pine on several points of the North river and Mohawk, so that they are scarce sufficient to supply the first wants of the inhabitants, who an; often compelled to employ timber of an inferior kind. I might enlarge on the blessings of the hard maple, without which the new settlers would be bereft ol the comforts of life — sugar, molasses, vinegar were you not thoroughly acquainted with the inestimable value of this precious tree. It is true, my dear sir, a good soil, good water, and plenty of wood for fuel and timber are strong inducements to settle in a new country — more so, when the price of all this is en hanced by the prospect of a good market in the neighbour hood; but if thou art there nearly alone without neighbours, if from the vicinity you obtain nothing even for ready cash, if, as is the situation ol the largest number who transport 86 their families in the woods — their all consists in an axe, a plow, a wheel, a frying-pen, kettle, bed and pillow, with a scanty provision of Hour, potatoes and salt pork — then what ' then, my dear air, something else besides is required not to suffer during the first season. It is true a little wheat is often saved in the fall, a small spot cleared to plant in the spring corn and potatoes, while they live in the hope, if their health is spared, to prepare the soil for sowing flax-seed ; hut something more yet is required to the maintenance of a numerous hungry family, and in this respect, too, Providence has in this district graciously provided even to satiety Neve)- did 1 see yet a country where all kind of fish was so abundant and good. Tt may beequaled, it cannot be excelled 1 tasted, within a short time, of more than a dozen different species, the one contending with the other for the pre-emi- nence, the least of these affording a palatable food, salmon pike, pickerel, cattish, if well prepared, boiled or stewed resembling the taste of the delicious turbot, Otzwego bass, an epicurean morsel, yellow 'perch, sun fish, I rial, (chub,) three species of trout, river lobsters, turtle, sword fish and a green coloured fish of an exquisite taste, white fish, &c. r J ne salmon is generally salted and sold at £4 the barrel ; cat fish at £4 and X,l 10; the eel is smoked, and with tie two preceding soils, preserved for the winter provision ; others are consumed fresh. Hundreds of gull eggs may be gathered on the islands. Ducks and geese visit annually the "lakes and creeks in large flocks; the swan is but seldom seen in this vicinity — while bears and deer are roving in the neighbourhood of every cottage. It is enough to set out a few lines at evening; to make now and then an excursion to the woods without sacrificing much of his time, that a settler may suppky his family with meat and fish during live or six months. 87 This is the country in which I could wish that our families were transplanted, with a few industrious families around us, whom we could assist and be mutually aided liy them. Here we might soon forget the bustle of the great world, might secure our happiness if we can curb our affections, and leave' a handsome inheritance to our children. But He who directs all human affairs for the best shall direct our steps. Do not suspect that 1 placed too much trust in general favourable reports. Follow me and we will take ocular inspection of the land. ( >n Sunday morning we bid adieu to the good widow, who left nothing undone which was in her power to render her homely cottage comfortable to us. About three miles from her bouse, a small, swift-running stream emptied its waters in the Wood creek from the south. From thence we pro- ceeded to a place called Oak Orchard, situated at the same side We arrived ere long at a singular neck of land about a mile in length, and so small, that by standing, we discovered the water at the opposite side. This was a tedious circum- navigation indeed. We might have, passed it in a few seconds if a passage had been cut through it. Not far from this spot we discovered a clearing, extended towards the Fish creek, or Oneida river — known by the name of Capt. Philips' and Dean's improvements. We left our canoe now and then to look at the land ; it was low and Hat near the borders of the creek, and had the appearance of being annually overflowed. The muddy sediments placed il beyond doubt ; the luxuriant foliage of the stately trees did leave no room to suspect that the land might not be trans- formed in verdant meadows and grass lands ; at some distance 88 the land became gradually more elevated, and was adorned with oak, beech, maple. The approaching night compelled us to look out for a con- venient spot for our encampment, in which we soon succeeded. Our tent was pitched, and a blazing fire prepared by the boys. We spread our carpet, and made our beds ready, wait- ing for our supper. Here thousands of muskitoes welcomed us in their abode, obtruded their company, and exhausted our patience by their treacherous caresses, in which they continued till wo had encircled our tent with smoke, and yet we heard their singing, but quite different form Pergo- Lase's SI dixit Mater. We covered our faces with a veil before we went to sleep This was the first time in my life I slept in the woods, and yet my sleep was sound, but short and not very refreshing, as 1 awoke fatigued, and was not at ease, till I drove the sleep from the eyes of all my companions, and had hurried them to the canoe to pursue our journey. We did so, and had scarce proceeded a mile, when the Wood creek, increasing imperceptibly in breadth, lost the appearance of a ditch, and appeared a handsome river, but how charming was the sight ! how delightfully was I sur- prised, when I did see it, unexpectedly, enlarged to more than double its breadth, and our frail vessel, if a hollow tree may be decorated with this pompous name, in its noddle. This sensation, however, was only momentaneous. It was suc- ceeded by another of a different stamp, which I could not suppress, although I endeavored to conquer it. You know, that in days of yore, presumption was rather my fault than fear, and here 1 could not have dreamed that it lurked in my breast — and yet I longed to be somewhat nearer the banks 89 with our canoe; but the sight of dangei is as fleeting, when we dare to look sternly at it, and arc willing to brave it, as that of a careless security is blending our sight, when we heedless rush on in an untrodden road. 1 soon perceived that we were now as safe as in the Wood creek, and it was a delight to observe how this river doubled its speed to pay its tribute to the lake. Now we hurried on, and encouraged our raw and unexpert hands to row on with alacrity, as we longed impatiently to see this vast expansion of water. Our wishes were ere long gratified. We stopped our course about nine o'clock, unloaded our canoe, pitched our tent, and brought firewood together, that we might have full leisure to contemplate this beautiful lake. DeZeng left me with the canoe and one hand to take a short exclusion on the Oneida creek, to the south side of the lake, to fetch some implements, left there the year before by on i>, Peter Frey. This Peter Frey, bom in Germany, lives since twenty years among the Oneida Indians, and gained their confidence in such a degree that they use him in any affairs of conse- quence, and consider him as the most honest white man with whom they have been acquainted. True it is, that he takes care of their interests with a fidelity and ardour, bordering on enthusiasm, which is but seldom met with. He is pecu- liarly entrusted with the management of the affairs of a Colo- nel Lewis, who served in the Revolutionary army, and was rewarded by the State with a bounty in land. The Oneida and Onondago Indians cultivate many hun- dreds choice apple trees from which they liberally distribute the fruits among their white neighbours, and provide them K 90 with grafts and young trees, if they are inclined to settle in their vicinity. While Major DeZeng continued his course in exploring the Canada creek, I took a walk along the eastern sandy shore of this charming lake, and examined its northern salient angles, of which the first was four, the next about nine miles distant, in this circuit from the mouth of Wood creek. The woods on the south shore are over-shadowed l>y a chain of, mountains, from east to west, curiously diversified by three elevations, which by their undulations in a serpentine line altered the horizon in a most delightful manner. The small islands in the lake could be distinguished, and zephyr ruffled the silver waves. Within a few moments I saw three canoes, one with Indians, among whom ('apt. Jacob Heed, and one bateau from the south and west, while two bateaux with four families, from the Fish creek, landed a, little below our encampment. The soil is a barren sand ; the trees near the shore dwarf- ish and of little value. At first, when I entered the woods, 1 met with a swampy ground, but further proceeding, a good loam, increasing in depth and richness as I went on. Oak, fir, pine, water-ash, then oak, beech and maple, are the prin- cipal timber. The baron returned about twelve, with two most capital eels, presented him by an Oneida — Good Peter, who had been hired by him the. last year to follow him on a similar expe- dition as that in which we now were engaged. Having loitered here away the afternoon in examining shells and stones, and plants and shrubs, we pursued our course the next morning; then rowing, then using the setting 01 poles along the shore, till we reached the point from which its northerly side maybe calculated. From here the shore was generally covered with pebbles. A small creek, called by the Indians who were with us Little Fish creek, falls here in the lake. At the coast side, near the lake, the pine, oak and hemlock elevate their heads, and overshadow an extensive tract of tolerable good land, although it does not assume this appearance, as at some distance from the lake, where they are intermixed, often outnumbered, by bash wood, ash, white wood, chestnut and sugar maple. To the west side of this creek is a large tract of oaks, a grey sandy soil ; a little further it is covered with a thin loam, there the oaks become mingled with beech, ere long with butternut and maple, then ash, walnut, maple and beech, in a rich loam from six to eighteen inches deep, increasing by every step which you advance to the interior. We had now lost a great part of two days in fishing, with- out an adequate reward to our- exertions, and might have suspected that the exuberant abundance of this lake in fish, of which we had heard so much boasting from white men :is well as Imlians, had been exaggerated, but we soon discov- covered the cause of our failure, while the Indians and rov- ing Americans confirmed us in our opinion. The lake was now covered as with a white cloak of hundred thousands millions of insects which we call Haft in Holland, and which lay in some parts of the shore one and two inches deep. This insect appears here annually at a stated period, although somevvhat earlier than in Holland. The eggs are hatched in the surface of the water, the winged insect tlutters a short time in the air, and is buried after a short life in its watery grave, to supply the finny tribe a rich repast, from which man reaps in his turn the advantages My imagination 92 warmed and exalted by the present scenes, brought me in a twinkling of the eye on the Meuse, and I ordered the row- ers to steer to the Stone Chan, her, (Steene-kamer) to regale myself with that delicious and so handsomely shaped fish, the roach, which preys upon this insect, and is never called for by the lovers of a good fare, except in these few days. A decent public house at the mouth of the Wood creek, might here replace the Steene-kamer, and the landlord might regale his guests in a more luxurious manner. The water plants, with their broad, oval leaves, and their yellow and white flowers, continued the illusion. It wanted only to complete its suc- cess, a few bottles of Old Mozel wine. It was infallible, my dear friend, as I spent in my youth so many delicious hours on the Meuse, when I often staid several weeks in its vicinity, or this remembrance contributed to exhilarate my soul, enraptured with the charms of the spot, with the contemplation of the wonders which a bounti- ful God spread over the face of the earth, and might to be traced in every step. We were, a little after sunset, surprised at a number of fires in a semi-circular form on the lake. I numbered nine others several more. These were made by the < meida Indians spearing eel. They are usually two or three in a canoe, one steerman, one who spears in the bow, the third takes care of the fire, made from dry, easily flaming wood, in a hollow piece of bark, first covered with sand. This brings me again to the Meuse, to see the fuyks setting for tin' salmon fishery, or emptying these from their captures, when some are saved, others, as you know, intended for fat salmon, receive their immediate doom, being knocked on the fore part of the head, which they term huyzen. How the fisher- 93 man laughs at the fruitless endeavour of the inexpert youth to kill the salmon; he performs it always with one, and well a soft stroke. We proceeded on our course, and arrived, at no great dis- tance, to another, but much smaller creek, emptying its waters in a pretty bay ; here was the land to some extent towards the lake low, and could only be appropriated for pasture or hay land ; but it gradually ascended about 20 feet, where it was covered with a deep, black, rich, fertile soil, mixed with a small portion of black sand, and covered with majestic oak, beech, butternut, walnut, ash and maple. Here the prospect was admirable indeed. Imagine, my dear sir, and yours is lovely enough, imagine that falling plain near the lake, cleared from trees and stumps, and covered with verdure, embellished with a dozen of cows, justly as you contemplated in the days of yore, in the rich pastures of the South Rhine and Delfsland, the lake in front, a wood to the south, at the other side behind it, the Canoserago mountain, the small rambling creek to the east, and to the west the islands in the lake in perspective, while behind you the noblest fields invite you to admire the rich produce of the soil, equal to the best tilled in our country. Major DeZeng walked slowly with his gun on shore. With head upraised and look intent. And eye and ear attentive bent, while we rowed on ; he gave us a signal ; we pushed to the shore ; he told us that he saw a bear on the next point ; in an instant we left the canoe and dispatched our boys, well armed, in the woods, to cut off* his retreat; DeZeng ami I advauced in his front from the lake side ; when within a pistol shot of this surly lord of the woods, be stood still, trotted on 94 a few steps and received a shot, from the woods which broke his left hind leg, another glanced his brawny side. DeZeng missed his aim, and while 1 stepped forward witli the cocked gun, DeZeng, throwing his gun aside, sprung impetuously forward with the tomahawk in his hand, attacked him in front and knocked him on the head twice; bruin lifted up his paw, twice he opened his mouth, at last stagg'ringhe falls, in blood and foam expires ; we dragged him with difficulty towards the canoe, as he was indeed of a monstrous siz< j , lifted him in it, and returned by land to the little creek, while our men rowed towards the same spot. Here we resolved to make our encampment for that night; in the morning it proved to be the most delightful spot which we had yet seen. Methinks, my dear sir, you must now be pretty tired with reading ; take, then, what repose. The bow cannot be always bent ; we are making our preparations lor the same end, while our boys are opening the hear early in the morning. They shall take off his hide to preserve it our trophy, fasten his limbs to the trees for the- first passenger, man or other beast of prey, and prepare for our breakfast a lew slices roasted, with a small piece for soup at dinner. Adio. Yours. Kingston, 1st August, 1792, My Deak Str — If you never tasted it, you might have declined to share in our breakfast. Stewed slices of surly bruin, was the principal dish. It was not to his advantage, that, though bulky enough, he was not fat; otherwise you must know, that in the country not only everywhere, but 95 even to the fastidious palate of many polished New Yorkers, it is a dainty, and this meat deserved indeed this high praise, if you obtain it in its season in perfection. With all this, I should not be surprised at all that you hail rather preferred a pike of three feet and six inches, which we discovered on shore — his belly torn open, without entrails — if we had caught it. I doubt not or he fell a prey to a bald eagle, who by some accident was prevented to destroy him. We entered once more our canoe ; discovered two bateaux steering towards the south, and arrived about noon at the Black creek, the largest at this side of the lake, after the Fish creek or Oneida river; here we dined on an excellent rice sou]), from one of Brown's gammons, which we had saved. Here was a broad piece of fore-land, watered by this creek, and about a hundred rods further on another creek, sufficient to turn a wheel, joined it The upland was excessive steep, high and barren; the soil, tine yellow sand; the trees, fir, hemlock, pine, and a few oak. At some distance the land gradually descended, the soil became richer and the timber was improving; oak, ash, yet further butternut, beech, maple, and again the same rich black soil, not subject of being so soon exhausted or baked in intensive hot weather, as the Whitestown loam. We continued our course after dinner along the shore, and hoped that we might reach the Fisher's bay, in which the little creek empties herself, whose vicinity was highly extolled by DeZeng, with an unbounded praise, and yet his description did not appear to me, after a cool examination, to be too highly coloured. It was late before we reflected upon it, and a rising thunder storm urged us to take quickly hold of all our oars. I ought 96 to have said pagays, as we were in a canoe. We did run, by our hurrying too fast, and through the inatten- tion of our man at the helm, with our canoe on a huge stone, without having it in our power for a long while to move it backward or forward ; at length we got again afloat, and arrived safe in the creek at Mr. Brace's, in former days a Connecticut merchant, now an independent inhabitant of the Oneida Lake, maintaining himself by the chase and fish- ery, and what he earned from a small potatoe spot. He fetched directly upon our arrival, a fine catfish, from a reser- voir, constructed from saplings and twigs, so well twisted that no escape was possible. He praised himself not a little on his invention, as this magazine supplied his wants by foul weather, or, as he said, " when Bruce was too lazy to go in quest for other food;" and who would have been willing to poison this complacency, or withhold the tribute to his ingenuity, which was really exerted in no ordinary way in this and other similar circu instances, when his powers of action were circumscribed within such a narrow sphere! Was not Csesar himself delighted with the success of his invention, as when he constructed that wonderful bridge over the Rhine, which he crossed with his army, to penetrate into Germany, and of which he seemed pleased, to leave us such a minute description ; and Bruce, poor as he now was, had a pretty high opinion of himself, seemed not to wish to repass the Mohawk, and, if not sua se virtute involvens, con- sidering himself as the best man, appeared at least to enjoy ease aud contentment — he was a Bruce ! This catfish weighed ten pounds ; we obtained afterwards one of twenty-four pounds. Some have been taken of forty and forty-five weight ; but those of the largest size are chiefly brought from Lake Ontario. When Bruce had prepared him, 97 ae showed us a handful fat, as yellow as gold. It was indeed a delicious repast for our supper. Roasted, as this was, and no cook could have done it better, or boiled or stewed, as we (lid eat after a while, you would not have been able to distin- guish it from a fine turbot, if its shape had been imitated. A barrel containing about fifty catfish, the head and back bone being thrown away, is sold here at £4-10. We observed here two sorts of trout, (FurellenJ both known by the name of salmon trout, although incorrectly. We could not obtain a specimen of the white species; these were the yellow and the red coloured, properly named salmon trout. The first is generally of a smaller size, its colour a dark brown, with a yellow tinge; the other is larger, the brown more lively, with reddish spots, fringed with a colour of gold, and are sometimes between two and three feet long The chub (Triob) is the usual bait, sometimes frogs. In the morning we made an excursion in the country, took a straight northerly course, and returned through the west ami south at the other side to our encampment. The fore- land near the lake, at the east' side of the creek, appeared but indifferent to the eye, now somewhat used to contemplate first-rate soil, and the timber stood in the same relation. At the distance of about one-fourth of a mile from the lake, the ground rises gradually and continues to do so, if you proceed another quarter of a mile. Then the soil increases in fertil- ity from step to step, and in the same proportion in depth. We had at first only a layer of four, then of six inches, which augmented from two to seven palms of my hand ; when we had proceeded about two miles, sometimes it is a black wood- land, in other places it was mixed with a fine black sand sometimes a rich blue ; sometimes a fine yellow clay. 98 It seems to me that you arc somewhat surprised at my accuracy. Do you uot thou recollect that I never could be satisfied in having done a thing by half? I may be mistaken ; I may make a wrong decision through ignorance or inadvert- ence; but it was my sincere aim to obtain a correct view of this country, for your, for my own sake. I removed with my large pocket-knife first the muck, till I reached the first layer, and protruded then a sound stick in that spot as far as it could penetrate, when I often, at. five and seven palms depth, discovered the same sort of soil at the end of the stick as that on the surface. Beech, maple, walnut, was the principal timber, with here and there an ash and lime tree, oak and pine, near the shore. We crossed the creek a little above a beaver dam, and found the same excellent soil at the west side,- with the same gradation, and in the same proportion as that which we had explored on the east, till we arrived again at the plain, covered with fir ami pine This is a barren plain, DeZeng, so it seems, bid it has good water, it, has good building spots, and by manuring and good husbandry, will make good gardens, [t is barren, indeed, DeZeng, although it may be meliorated, but, you do not reflect on the advantages of that creek ; art thou not convinced by what thou hast seen, that with small exertions to improve it, full laden bateaux may go in and out, may do it actually now ? Did your eye not discover the mill seats on this creek ' Ought not the valuable lands back to these not to come in competition ? Can you not see bateaux ascending Bruce's creek, and descending tiie Salmon creek ' Can you not see the tins and other valuable produce of Canada brought hither through the canal ? Ah ! do you not see already various 99 stores and magazines crowded with merchandize — then you nothing of .second sight: return to this spot within 30, tO years, and you shall exclaim, DeZeng was pretty near the truth, but underrated yet the value of the spot, and so it would have been indeed now, had a colony been planted here under Stuyvesant's administration, and the noble patronage of the Dutch government, of a few families of Boors from Guelderland, and of fishermen from the borders of the Meuze. A swamp begins about two miles and a half from this creek, which extends itself considerably in the country and joins an excellent, piece of land, which is separated byanothei marsh from the lake towards the west. You may calculate the value of this land by that, one of the Oneida Indians. Colonel Lewis left, nothing untried to have it secured to him as his individual property; and that the Indians, when after- wards a French adventurer, one Chevalier Bennett, hail obtained the possession, did give him in lieu of it 60,000 acres near Cataraqui. Even these swamps must acquire in time no inconsiderable value, from the timber which they eon i ain. Their draining, nevertheless, though it max be executed, must lie an expensive undertaking, by want of a descent for the water, as they are lying nearly on a level. We left Bruce's creek on Friday evening about six ; the sky was serene and delightful; a soft breeze curled the waves and fringed them with white, while the sun sinking towards the west beautified the whole scenery. I did not witness such a grand or majestic sight since I crossed the Atlantic. It must lie seen before it can lie fully appraised, and then it must be a biute whose bosom does not glow' with an ardent love towards his Creator, and adores His goodness and wisdom 100 so majestically displayed in every part of the Universe. In proportion that we penetrated deeper ia the lake, the beauty of this diversified prospect was more and more enhanced, the islands, the shores, the woods, the mountains obtruding them- selves to our sight, seemed to vie with other for the prefer- ence. At length the slight breeze increased : ere long a brisk wind arose from the west; the increased undulated motion with the white capped waves appalled our raw hands, whose trembling limbs ami pale visages too clearly betrayed their fear of a threatening shipwreck. We endeavoured to assuage it, as the wind was steady. Tf we had any'appre- hension, it, arose from their iuexpertedness, from their unsub- dued terror, from the knowledge that two or three waves would have been sufficient to sink our deep-loaded canoe. We conquered, nevertheless, and they rowed on with re- doubled alacrity. We encouraged and applauded their efforts, and laughed away their fears. 1 never witnessed a more charming sight; it was indeed exquisitely beautiful; the sun in its full splendour at the western horizon, gilding the enlightened clouds, an extensive sheet of water in an undulating motion, two islands towards the south in front, which wo were now approaching, a small opening between these, through which' we had a view of the southern coast, one single, covered with grass, and with one tree-adorned rock, behind which in perspective appeared the country of the < hieidas with the Canoserago hills. We landed half after seven at the largest and most westerly island, towed the canoe on shore, and walked by an Indian path in the woods. This island might in ancient days have been the happy scat of a goddess, in the middle age that of a magician, or a 101 fairy's residence in the times of chivalry. Proceeding on one after another through the stately trees, through which we perceived yet the last glances of the setting sun, we were at once, after a few rods, surprised with an enchanting view, of which it is not in my power to give you an adequate description. All that the poets did sing of tin- gardens of Alcinous, all the scenery of those of Arneida, so highly deco- rated by Virgil and Ariosto, could scarce have made upon me, who was captivated unawares and bewildered, a more deep impression than this spectacle of nature. We did see here a luxuriant soil in its virgin bloom ; we did see industry crowned with blessing, we did sec line what great things a frail man can perform if he is willing. It seemed a- paradise which happiness had chosen for her residence. Our path, gradually increasing in breadth, did lead us to the circum- ference of a cleared circle, surrounded with lime trees; at both sides of the. path was planted Indian corn, already grown from four to five feet, while a few plants towards the middle of this patch were six feet long, and this in the middle of June. A small cottage of a few feet square stood nearly in the centre of this spot. It had a hark covering, and to the left of it a similar one, three-fourths uncovered and appropria- ated for a kitchen. Here was the residence of Mr. and Madame de Wattines, with their three children. They lived then; without servants, without neighbours, without a cow ; they lived, as it were, separated from the world. De Wattines sallied forward and gave us a cordial welcome in his desmenes. The well-educated man was easily recognized through his sloven dress. Ragged as he appeared, without a coat or hat, his manners were those of a gentleman ; his address that of one who had seen the higher circles of civilized life. A female, from whose remaining beauties might 102 be conjectured how many had been tarnished by adversity, was sitting in. the entrance of this cot. She was dressed in white, in a short gown and petticoat, garnished with the same stuff; her chestnut brown hair Hung back in ringlets over her shoulders, her eyes fixed on her darling Camille, a native of this isle, at her breast; while two children, stand- ing at eacli side of her, play'd in her lap. Her appearance was amiable indeed ; a wild imagination might have lost herself, and considered the wearied, toiling Des Wattines as the magician who kept this beautiful woman in slavery, but ere soon the charm dwindled away. Esteem for the man filled our bosom, and when you considered how indefatigably he must have exerted himself; what sacrifices he must have made, what hardships endured, to render her situation com Portable, and rear roses for her on this island, so deep iu the western wilderness then, notwithstanding all the foibles winch a fastidious cool observer might discover at his lire side, in a character and conduct as that of Des Wattines. lie becomes an object of admiration. 1, at least, gazed at him in wonder. Des Wattines introduced us to his spouse. She received us with that easy politeness which well-educated people seldom lose entirely, and urged, with so much grace, to sit down that we could not refuse it without incivility. This couple was now in the second year on this island, and all the improvements which we had seen were the work of Des Wattines' hands exclusively. Our refreshment was a dish of tea, or rather their usual beverage from Venus hair, which she has collected and dried, palatable enough indeed, when sweetened with sugar. It was growing dark before we could be persuaded to leave our new companions, who insisted on our staying with them that night, which we declined reluctantly, but engaged ourselves 103 to return iu the morning, and to partake of their break- fast. Both had gained a claim to this sudden affectionate attach- ment. He, initiated in the manners of the fashionable world of the Old Continent, with a tincture of Belles Lettres, with that sprightliness and versatility of mind, characterising : Ce Peuple aimable, ami des arts Tantot grave, tantot futile Par cent tourbillous emporte, Agitant d'une main legere Les hockets de la nouveaute ; Frivole et gay par charactere Et raisonneur par vanite. She so artless, so graceful, so fair; who might have extorted compliance where a world of men could not prevail ; could it be else, or Europeans not insensible to the pleasures of society, and separated from those dear to their hearts, must, have been gratified with the vicinity and courtesy of this couple. Few trunks, few chairs, an oval table, two neat beds, wai the principal furniture; a double barreled gun, a pretty col lection of hooks, chiefly modern literature, in the French lan- guage, the chief ornaments of the cottage. At our return to our encampment, our tent was pitched (lie tire blazing, our hoys snoring, and we too fell soon asleep 1 awoke with daylight, and made the circuit of this fortu- nate island. When returned to the place of our landing, I crossed the corn plantation and went on, to contemplate more carefully what might have escaped my sight the pre ceding eveniue; 104 Des Wattines had laid out behind the cottage a pretty garden, divided by a walk in the middle. The two foremost beds, and robots, against the house, were covered with a variety of flowers; sweet williains, lady slippers, with a few decaying hyacinths. At the right hand were bush beans, large kidney beans, at poles, cabbage, turnips, peas, salade, with that strong scented herbage, which we call keovel, (cheovel,) and which yon purchase so dear at your arrival in New York, although its culinary use in cakes and soup was then yet unknown there; at the left, water-melons, cante- lopes, cucumbers, persil, stringpeas, with a few of the winter provisions, all in great forwardness, with few or no weeds among them ; behind the garden a small nursery of apple trees, which was closed with a patch of luxuriant potatoes, and these again were joined both sides by wheat, describing a semi-circle around it. All this was the workmanship of Des Wattines's industry; without any assistance, not even of a plow or harrow, having no other tools but an axe and an hoe. It was true it was all in miniature, but it required, nevertheless, an indefatigable industry to be able to accomplish all this to such a degree of perfection. When I approached the cottage Des Wattines was yet employed in dragging pretty heavy wood fin - fuel towards it, which he chopt and split in a short time; and in less yet the fire was blazing, when he came with a catfish of sixteen pounds, for our breakfast. While he was busily engaged in its preparations, Madame appeared, brought him a handful persil. and dressed the table. The table cloth was of neat damask, a few silver spoons and forks, the plates and dishes cream coloured, remnants yet of their former affluence; while the contentment legible in her eyes, spread a fresh glow over her countenance, and made a deep impres- 105 sion on our hearts, and whetted our already keen appetite. DeZeng was meanwhile arrived, and complimented Madame with his usual politeness. Salade, roasted and stewed fish, well baked, warm bread of Indian corn, with good Hyzan tea, which she accepted from us with kindness, soon filled the table. I was seldom better regaled. The fish was deli- cious; the sprightly conversation u'ave a fresh relish to every mouthful we tasted; and we might have desired to be inhab- itants of that enchanted spot, had it been in our power to withdraw our attention from the hardships to which they uric exposed, and banish the idea that they seldom could obtain anything else but fish. You know, my dear sir, how all -significant it is toujour s de perdrix! although the gay conviviality of Des Wattines drove for a while this gloomy thought away, it could not prevent its' return, while now and then a downcast look, how suddenly it was relieved, an involuntary half suppressed sigh gave a new poignancy to the bitterness of this feeling. Des Wattines even assisted by DeZeng, ridiculed in vain, similar reveries and phantoms; she smiled and its force was blunted, an island ! in Oneida Lake! the want of all society whatever, except perhaps a solitary visit from — a bear! the want of many of the first necessaries of life, and that, too, in her situation, when her Camille was born ! the imperious necessity to leave, from time to time, such an amiable, delicate woman with three children, helpless, sometimes days together, alone on this island, as often Des Wattines went to the Oneida creek for corn. Was it possible that similar reflections should not have marred the most tumultuous joy ! I will not deny that my spirits were damped, and my jocundity was now and then deeply tinged with melancholy. 106 Des Wattines inquired in the boundaries of our journey, to Lake < mtariOj" " and in what manner ?" " Well, with our canoe," was the reply. He sprung from his chair and stared us fully in the face with a " Par Dien ! with your canoe ! to Lake Ontario ! nanny ! prcnezle bateaux, take it, Major, it is at \'e burthened above what they are aide to bear, and the worthy clergy would not often be reduced to beggary. A small patch of corn promised a, good crop, and a similar of summer wheat which he said to have sown the first of May, had branched out its large ears. At the southwest side of Oswego is the valuable tract of L. Gansevoort, with here and there a cleared spot, and another in no respect, except extension, inferior to this is a 109 location of one thousand acres of L'Home Dieu, to the north of the Onondago opposite to the southern point of the Oswego. We hired Barker at five shillings a day, to bring us over the fall, and stay with us till our return. We started from the point at four. We distinguished at a considerable dis tance the grumbling noise of the water on the first and second rift. Near the first is a remarkable good mill seat ; here were the Onondagos collected in huge numbers ; some fishing, some smoking in their huts, others from time to time arriving and passing us in their bark canoes, with much art constructed, so light and easily manageable, that a squaw with her little daughter-gained on us, and left us soon behind her by her velocity. We concluded to encamp about ten miles from Three Rivers Point, opposite to a handsome island in the Oswego river. The pickerel often weigh here thirty pounds, pike is of a similar size ; we took a catfish of four span and a half; perch too, of which we obtained a few, is here in abundance. • At a short distance from the river is a good fertile soil , further, of a rich clay ; the timber pretty similar to that which we had seen before. We stalled again pretty early on Monday morning, and arrived at the falls, twelve miles from the point. This indeed was again a very interesting si"lit You would be enraptured with it: could I borrow and then make use of Vernet's pencil, so that I could do jus- tice to the scenery, 1 would offer you a grand tableau. At the south side is a farm of three hundred acres, of one Mr. Valekenburg, who intends to build him this year a saw and grist mill. It is a noble spot for constructions of this kind. Here we unloaded our bateau ; dragged it about a hundred rods over the carrying place, and there, below the falls com- 110 raitted lier again to its proper element. In few moments our baggage was again on board and we in the bateau. Here Barker did give us a proof of his dexterity and alertness ; with a rapidity' which dimmed the sight, with an incredible swiftness, we passed over stones, between rocks and islands, as an arrow on the wing and lost the falls out of our sight and hearing, before we could reflect to turn our eyes once more towards these, or examine our process with coolness. At twelve we arrived at Oswego, yet secured by a British garrison, notwithstanding it ought to have been surrendered many years before to our government, in conformity to the treaty of peace. But I should not have dared to assert that from our side all its articles had been religiously observed. If so, nevertheless, then our national forbearance was a rare example in a Republican Government. It is true, my dear sir, to take some repose, I at least am in want of it, and the generous cannot be lack in courtesy In my next I shall bring you to the limits of the land of promise I will not leave you there, but depend upon it you will perceive how I am then speeding, as a dart from the bow, towards my beloved family. Adio. Yours, &c. Kingston, 10 August, 1792. My Dear Sir — Two fortifications, commanding a consid- erable extent of water and land, attracted first our notice. That to the south, constructed in former days by the British, was now chiefly demolished : that to the north, fortified by the French, and conquered on them by the British, during the seven years' war, is yet garrisoned by them, although Ill within our lines. Its whole defence, however, is but one company, which could not make any resistance, as all the fortifications are so decayed, that it would not be a great achievement, to drive over these ramparts with wagon and horses. Neither does it seem the intention to make any repairs, from the consciousness no doubt, that their surrender is long since finally concluded, and only delayed on account of some trifling formalities, at this or the other side of the Atlantic I saw nevertheless in this paltry despicable fort- ress, seven barrels salt, taken from an American bateau, by an American run-a-way, now a British custom house officer. It is. forsooth, a port of entry, which a sturdy Yankee might pa*s without a lee. This practice could not be continued, if the whole country was settled, even if the post was not sur- rend'Ted ; as Americans could not, neither would bear much longer such an indignity. Neither would a large force he required to set this garrison at defiance. An act of hostility, however, would in the present situation, be an act of impru- dence, of rashness, as it might clog our government's negotia- tions ; and the day is now fast approaching, that it shall be peacefully surrendered, and the American stripes unfurled on this bulwark; when the British leopard may return with honour to his Canadian den. The commanding officer, a Rhode Island man by birth. Captain Wickham, treated us with a great deal of politeness, and regretted to be unable to offer us refreshments, as the Canadian sloop, which was for these, was not yet returned, but every hour expected. This frank and fearless veteran was not at all alarmed at our appearance, or suspected that we might come to discover and betray the nakedness of this country and fort entrusted 112 to his charge. He enquired carelessly in the object of our expedition, and made us an offer of his aid whenever he might be of any service to us; and ho did so effectually; it was through his management that the British Interpreter, thoroughly acquainted with Lake Ontario and its shores, agreed to conduct us to the Salmon creek. This Mr. Price spent a part of his youth with Ouondago Indians. He was in the beginning discreet enough and civil through the whole of this excursion, but his society other- wise, tar from indifferent, lost a great part of its worth by his incessant swearing ; it was, indeed, if he deemed it an accom- plishment. This was a pity indeed, as ho was blessed by a bountiful God with various rare endowments, a sound judg- ment, a lively imagination, undaunted courage, with a frame of body so strong that it harried all fatigues, so handsome that he did not, want to stoop whenever he wished to conquer. He was an ingenous mechanic indeed, excelling to whatever he bended his versatile genius ; he made an excellent violin for one Mr. Gordon, an European, who was often pleased to say in its praise, " that in Canada it might be offered for a ( Jremonese." This Mr. Price was our Palinurus as soon we had entered our bateau, which was about four in the afternoon ; )ur raw hands rowed ; Price was at the helm. We did sit, on the middle bench ; ere long we reached deep water. Lake Ontario resembles rather an open sea than an inland reservoir of water. You look in vain for land to rest your eye upon. We arrived, with a fresh breeze at Four Miles Point, hoisted now our sail, passed it and obtained then a view of a range of perpendicular rocks, which rendered a landing impossible and dangerous to approach them nearer. I cannot say that 113 I was charmed at first with this prospect, and yet it was imposing enough but I was become too much accustomed to peaceful, rural scenes, to become at once enamoured with objects of grandeur, risen and protruded by the woods, the waves and the rocks. Not one of our Argonauts or he seemed pleased with the trip ; what signified rowing where we might sail ? Spread the cauvass ! how merrily glides our bateau over the waves ! Bernhard, one of our hands, boasted on his seamanship and experience. He doubled not, or he might bring a vessel in safety in the harbour; he had seen the narrows between Long Island and Staten Island. Price swore that he was tired with steering, and called, with another curse our pilot to take care of the helm. Now he placed him- self between us and smoked his pipe. Our new steersman pointed every time towards shore, which he as often was compelled by a general command to steer more towards the middle, as we were now between the tremendous rocks at Four and Nine Miles Point. The wind suddenly increased, our pilot turned again towards the shore, and was anew for a moment by Price's tremendous curses, overawed to steer once more to dec]) water. But his increasing fear — not longer within his control — a desultory animated conver- sation between DeZeng, Price and myself, permitting him to follow the bias of his alarming impulse and a pretty rough western wind carried us within a few moments at a distance of a few rods only, towards these horrible perpendicular rocks, of which some seemed suspended over the watery surface. We were now in an imminent danger, a shipwreck, by which the bateau must have been dashed in pieces, seemed inevitable, and no lives might have l»eeu saved, except, perhaps, that of Price. At once a loud pityful cry, "hold towards shore," struck our ears, Price did tear the oar from N 114 Barker's hand, commanded to lower the sail and bring out the oars, but all in vain. The pilot wept and cry VI, " hold towards shore, Mr. Price, good Mr. Price! push on shore — I pi ay God Almighty — dear Mr. Price, set on shore!" Price's reply was, " God damn you rascal! down the sail, out the oar, obey or sink !" One of our boys sat nearly lifeless in the bow ; the other near the mast, pale as death, with staring ryes and with opened mouth. The danger increased t<> appearance: the surge ruse higher and higher; our united strength and weight, viz : DeZeng's and mine, were scarce sufficient to prevent the bateau turning upside down ; twice did 1 actually see a great part of the bottom, twice 1 did see it naked ; one-half inch more and we had been lost. At last the sail was struck, the oar out, and we were only in part exposed to the first shock, while Price, who remained calm and alert, succeeded in forcing the prow into the waves, and bringing us again in safety in deep water. When the danger was past the terror of our crew abated, and 1 praised in my soul the Almighty, as I do at this instant, for our hair-breadth escape. Price remained now' at the helm, and we proceeded on our course with a steady breeze, very pleasantly, except that DeZeng and 1 were thoroughly soaked over the right side from top to toe, while our three hirelings grinned that they were yet dry. This was our reward for our arduous struggle to avert a peril which threatened to overwhelm us all. We entered, notwithstanding the foaming breakers, a creek of the middle size, three miles to the south of the Little Sal- mon creek, towed our bateau in an inlet, and chose the heights for our encampment. Before our tent was pitched, and our fire in full blaze, Price and Barker returned with a 115 large eel and huge catfish, which were more than sufficienl for our supper. We arrived on Tuesday at the Little Salmon creek ; there was fish in the greatest abundance ; Otsego bass, porch, sun fish, cattish, eel, sheepshead, similar but superior in flavour to that species called neus braessem by the Dutch, and sword- fish. We speared a few of these and cut off their heads, armed with swords, of five and six inches in length, without tasting the fish, as some of our crew pretended that it was of a poisonous nature, which I would doubt. It might be so in the sword ; or it might be that this terrible weapon overawed the first examiners and roused their imagination, to give birth to similar dreams; the meat certainly a] >poars good, being solid white, and lined with a milky substance. The salmon collects here and in the Big Salmon creek, in nearly incredible numbers, during the fall and spring. The soil along the shore is generally indifferent, seldom, to appearance, above mediocrity. Sand and stone at various distances, intersected by swamps, a lew pine, more hemlock, and sometimes a cedar brush. As soon you penetrate some what deeper in the country, its interior parts become more pleasing, the soil more fertile, more valuable the timber; beech and maple re-appear, intermixed with oak and walnut. Several mill seats are on these large creeks. The wind was too vehement on Wednesday to proceed on our journey with such an ignorant and even cowardly crew . even the daring Price advised us ool to run the risk; bn( he could not on any account be persuaded to remain longer with us He grasped his gun, left his great coat with us, and flew out of sight in the woods. We heard the report of a gun. 116 another, and there was Price returned ; he threw a couple of partridges at our feet, and departed finally. We caught yellow perch which indeed was exquisite ; large pickerel and pike, some, two feet long. The lake became more and more tempestuous; the wind blew a gale, and our Typheus had left us. Now I could not compter a rising wish to he reunited to a beloved family, dear t<> my heart by so many ties, and enjoy with them that placid con- tentment in our peaceful abode in Ulster; and, when 1 felt, that it was vain, it increased for a few moments to a painful anguish. The thought that my presence would be more and more longed for every day; that it was actually required there; the roughness of our hands, with whose intimacy I became disgusted ; the want of a number of comforts and conveniences to which I was accustomed, and seemed now for the first time to become sensible of — all this, with the uncertainty when we might leave this spot with safety, sub- dued for a while my sprightliness, and rendered me morose and sullen, but it wason^a morning cloud, which passed by The recollection that He who rules and directs all for the best restored my wonted equanimity, while DeZeng's insinuat- ing address and entertaining conversation soon again brought my feelings in union with his. The violence of the tempest, increased with the falling night, and did not abate till the morning, when we compelled our pilot and crew to enter once more in the bateau. When we perceived that Barker brought us nearly in the same situation as before, we listened to prudence advice and considered it our duty to land in the same creek which we had entered/on Monday. We took here, after we bad rowed 117 up this creek for two miles, a large quantity of trout of various sizes — to regale us at dinner. Nothing, my dear sir, resembles nearer the small rivulets and canals in South Holland than these creeks, as far as these are navigable. You see the same water plants and flowers in some parts the conserve/,, covering a part of the surface — the same insects, the same serpentine windings. We took a walk after dinner a few miles in the country, following the course of the creek at some distance, where we found a rich soil, and here and there a mill seat. A variety of huts scat- tered along the creek with a sort of sheds to dry eels, was a full proof that neither here was want of fish. The small river lobster was here plentiful. The soil was full of stones near the creek, which diminished in proportion that we receded from it. This fertile soil was covered with some oak , beech and maple, in some parts mixed with walnut, chestnut and butternut. We returned about G o'clock to our encamp- ment, but our pilot and one of our hands were unwilling to embark that evening; to-morrow morning — this night they would start — the lake was yet too high ; at last, however, having prevailed on one of our lads, we got them all, willing, unwilling in the boat. We placed him whose good will I had secured at the helm; the pilot with his mate in mutiny at, the oars, and pushed forward deep enough in the lake 3 while DeZeng and I took a pagay in the hand to prosper our course. Here we met with the bateau, from which the British had secured a part of the cargoe of salt, permitting it to depart after the remainder had becw redeemed. It proceeded to Cadaraghkui. A fresh westerly breeze with the falling even- ing, induced us to look out for a landing spot, in which we 118 sooner and better succeeded than we could have expected. It was about two miles above Nine Miles Point; the wind suddenly increased again ; we hauled our bateau on dry land so that we might not lose her during the night. It was now about 8 o'clock ; the evening beautifully charming beyond expression; the bauk on which we had pitched our tent was about four feet above the level of the shore ; before our tent was a large fire in full blaze ; the sky remarkably clear ; a double colonnade of stately broad- branched beech and birch trees surrounding our encampment, planted, as it seemed, by our warmed imagination, in a regular symmetry, without intercepting from our eyes the sight of the lake, which was illumed by the moon. The soil appeared tolerably good, the bank continued to rise above us, but it was too late now for a more accurate examination. I was indeed charmed with this beautiful spot ; the supper was welcome ; we chatted away a part of the evening before we perceived from the snoring of our crew that it was late, and high time to lie down. My sleep was refreshing. 1 awoke with a renewed ardour, and roused at breakday every soul in the tent by my uninterrupted halloos. At (i o'clock we rowed already with all our might, and arrived about ten at the fort, to our great satisfaction and joy. As there remained nothing in the place to keep our curiosity alive, we had soon our dinner prepared and dis- patched ; when ready to start, Captain Wickham, returning from the woods with half a dozen pigeons in his hand,giveth us a friendly call. We left the fort at 1 o'clock, and made our encampment that night three miles from the falls, after having walked one mile to lessen the freight of the bateau ; and now, my dear sir, you will en jo}' with us, that we accom- 119 plished this journey without any real misfortune. The remainder must be. of course, riding post over the same ground, become now to us less interesting, and yet I wish to reserve the conclusion for my next. Yours. Kingston, 15 August, 1792. My Dear Sir — Our breakfast was in readiness at an early hour, neither did we tarry long; all hands to the bateau! speed, boys ' speed ! and the command was promptly execu- cuted. Our boat seemed to acquire a new vigor, either that lie was satisfied fully with the length of this trip, or that he actually longed for his home. We arrived at Three River Point about seven, discharged Mr. Barker, and pitched our tent in the vicinity of Ids house, crowded with travellers from several bateaux and canoes, which tarried there since yesterday. Barker had caught, by throwing a line behind the bateau, four large Oswego bass, the smallest, of a foot long, which was the best part of our supper. I had now* an opportunity of examining and witnessing the truth, of what the Baron had told me before of the curious manner, by which the chubs (lziobs) hide their eggs. They deposit these along the rivers of Oswego and Onon- lago on shallow ^pots, and cover these afterwards with small pebbles, heaped in a conical form, somewhat below the sur- face of the water, while others were prominent above it. Need I tell you, my dear sir, that Fort Brewerton, winch we leached at four in the afternoon, was to us a delightful sight. Captain Bingham w r as from home on the salmon 120 fishery, and Captain Simonds, with the womeu, on a visit to the Island. His eldest daughter, nevertheless, a smart young girl, prepared us a good supper, a bass of two pound, a dish with stewed eel, with fresh bread and butter. Our breakfast was congenial, having secured two capital eels, with a pot of milk and rice; we hurried to the Island and complimented Mr. and Madame des Wattines, on Monday morning between nine and ten. We were again congratulated with a hearty welcome, and a new zest was added to our gratification, when Des Wattines proposed to conduct us to the Fish creek, or Oneida river, as he was compelled to go to the Oneidas for Indian coin. His garden was yet more pleasant, its value unquestionably had increased. Head lettuce, parsley (porce- lain) string peas, and kindey beans, were in full perfection. They would not be refused, and seemed not satisfied, before we were provided with some store of their plenty, as they were pleased to call it ; and then yet they, as it were, coin- pelled us by their kind, although nearly importune entreaties, to accept a mess of new potatoes with a large; cat-fish. Madame walked with us to the shore ; there we slept in the bateau ; one of his dogs had taken early a place in our canoe, the other did swim behind it. Madame des Wattines, with her Camille to her bosom, her eldest boy between her, and his sister at her side, motionless, staring at us, with an ex- pressive countenance, with features portraying what her soul so keenly seemed to feel in that distressing moment of sepa- ration, adieu, Des Wattines ! was all which we could distin- guish. There stood that lovely, deserted fair one ! not deserted as Ariadne, but nevertheless left alone with three helpless children — alone ! on an island on Oneida Lake. I turned my head from this mournful object, and conquered, with some reluctance, these painful sentiments which tor- tured my bosom. His dog followed our bateau, swimming, 121 and lauded at length at the second island, where he continued a while, barking, and then returned, as we supposed, and Des Wattines assured us, to his mistress. We saw before we reached the creek a summer shower, refreshing the island, on which no drop of rain had fallen since three weeks. So takes a bountiful Father care of those of His children who arc destitute of every other assist- ance; so He waters the wilderness, refreshes the herbs in the desert, and tills the hearts of those that are languishing, with food and gladness. We took our dinner by Bruce, where our milk and rice, which we purchased at Fort Brewerton, was to all a palatable dish ; then we bid a hearty farewell to our recluse — pre- sumptively a farewell forever, and returned towards evening to the mouth of the Fish creek or Oneida river, from which we started fur our expedition. Des Wattines prepared our soupe of eel and catfish, while we superintended the pitching of our tent and making a good tire. This was a truly social entertainment ; our hearts were flushed with success, and the prospect before us of meeting ere long with our wives and children, and, having passed some of the great waters of the western lakes, it rendered our feelings exquisitely de- lightful. Here we were gratified with a visit, if it is not presump- tuous to make use of such a familiar term, when 1 speak of a casual meeting of such great folks as the first Judge Lan- sing and Col. Lewis, the Attorney General of the State, and Major Farley, who all went to attend the circuit, and yet we considered it a visit, as we too had been considered as great folks by some, who wanted our cash, as we were the first occupants of the soil, and this, according with the gift of, I 122 know not of what ancient or modern pontiff, if it was not St. George or St. Francis, the proprietors of the soil exclu- sively. We separated after conversation ; they doomed to remain there till it pleased the westerly breeze to abate ; Des Wattines parting from us in his bateau to the Oneida creek, and we proceeding with our canoe to the Fish creek or Oneida river. Here we met with one of our old acquaint- ance, Mr. Abraham Lansing, who, with one Mr. Fonda, went to Niagara. We stopt at the mouth of the Wood creek. I concluded, while DeZeng with oue of our lads was preparing our dinner, to take with the other a view of the Fish creek. Before we started, Captain Bingham returned with rive barrels salmon, and sold us a fresh one. We rowed up the creek about three miles, and then landed on the side between the Fish and Wood creeks ; here we met first with a broad girdle of fertile flat land, nearly east by west; then a long tract of pine chiefly, then beech, maple and oak. The lower parts at this side are often overflown. The land at the west side is much higher than that to the east. 1 ordered the boy to proceed higher up, and took a similar course landward in, and examined the soil from time to time, which 1 found generally fertile, although of a less favorable aspect towards the lake and richer again in propor- tion, that I took a northwestern course. My opinion was as much formed from the variety of timber as from the soil, which through a partial and incorrect examination might have led me astray. I reached my canoe near the mouth of the Wood creek, entered it and found, after an absence of three hours, the peas porridge ready. We remained that evening two miles at this side of the Oak Orchard, where we breakfasted, and met about one mile from it, Mess. Boon and Lincklaen, who, assisted by Mr. Morris, a land surveyor, pro- 123 ceeded on a similar excursion. It was 2 o'clock before we arrived at the widow Armstrong's cottage. Tn an instant the kettle was hung on the fire to boil our fresh salmon. We made ourselves an ample compensation for our frugal repast at breakfast. The salmon was delicious enough, although not so fat, which, no doubt, was occasioned that it was speared ; but certainly this one, though considered large, was much smaller than usually those on the river the Meuse. Amos Fuller, who resided now with his family at the widow's till he should be successful, as he said, in purchasing a farm in this neighbourhood, informed us, that two past three Massachusetts men, amongst whom one of his brothers, had taken an accurate view of the tract from this point be- tween the Canada creek, then westward between the Wood and Fish creeks, and considered it upon the whole so valuable that they had offered to purchase a whole township, to pay a £1,000 by the deed of the land, and the residue within a year, obliging themselves further to settle it before April, 1704-, with thirty-five families We heard this identical tract described by others, ardently, perhaps, desiring to take it in their grasp, described as an indifferent tract of land, remarkable chiefly for its hemlock, pine and swamps, which, perhaps, might fall short in defray- ing the expenses of its survey. This difference of opinion can only be accounted for in one way, not that judgment was biased, but that secret motives induced the one and the other to overrate or underrate lands to facilitate its sale or pur- chase ; come and see, then, and examine for yourself and your friends. Fuller tacked his old horse to our canoe, and dragged it to Fort Bull ; here I strode on poor Rouziuante, step by step, towards Fort Stanwix, where the baron, after a little while, 124 arrived, having left our canoe and baggage one mile from the carrying place by want of water. The canoe arrived next morning. We dined, in part, on the new potatoes of Des Wat- tines, the welcome cup flowed over and I sincerely thanked the baron for his hospitable reception, for his manifold ser- vices and entertaining society, during a journey which required such a good companion to smooth its roughness. His lady was by her attentions entitled to the same civilities. We took a cordial farewell ; 1 stept on 1113' horse, which was neat and plumb, rode to Whitesborough, visited Mr. Piatt, once to be compared to Noordkerk of Amsterdam ; and then made a call to the good hearted Himh White, asked for their commands and slept that night at old Fort Schuyler, by Mr. Hansje Post. I was again on horseback early in the morn- ing on Friday, and crossed the river. My oiled silk surtout coat defended me from the rain, which continued without interruption from five till eight. I had missed the road near the German Flatts, but met good people, who with kind- ness convinced me that I was on a b3 7 e-path They had observed my inattentive mien, and asked me where I went to ? I crossed again the Mohawk, took breakfast at Mr. Aldritz's, visited the Rev. Rosekrantz, and arrived at Capt. Billinger's, where 1 obtained for my dinner, good chicken broth. I stept at four on my horse and associated to another traveller, passed Cauajohari, baited our horses by Hudson, crossed the Mohawk for the last time, tarried about an hour at the widow Schuyler's, and slept that night nine miles farther at Bankert's inn, much fatigued and thoroughly wet by a copious perspiration. The sight of several fields, from which they were reaping the r}'e, of others where the sheaves stood in array, made me double my speed. Looking steadily forward, and little car- 125 ing of what I left behind, I discovered first at Simon Veder's, at Canghnawaga, that I had left my spurs,— it was fortunate that I was not in want of these for my good horse. I break- fasted at Putnam's on Trip's hill, staid over noon at Mabee's, six miles from Scheuectadi, without tasting a morsel, provid- ing quietly for my beast, as the landlady declined the trouble to prepare a roasted chicken for my dinner. I might have got some pork. I enjoyed the satisfaction to find the Rev. Romeyu with his lady and family in a perfect health. A good dish of tea, with the delightful society of that respecta- ble clergyman, revived my spirits, so that I passed two agreeable hours with them. I rode the same evening yet five miles farther, and was before eight next morning under the hospitable roof of my worthy friend, Dr. Mancius. The Rev. de Ronde, a clergyman of four-score years, who expatriated from one of the Land Provinces, and settled in this State, many years past, was to officiate in the Dutch Church. I was tempted to be one of his hearers. His sub- ject was rich enough : " Who shall shew us what is good ? let the light of your countenance arise upon us, O Lord !" A Bonnet, a Hulshoff, a Chevalier, would have delivered a mas- ter-piece. The good old father, I believe, did as well he could. But, accustomed as I was, to dainties, it was a hard fare to digest a coarser meal. In this respect, my dear sir, the time for our adopted country is yet to come, and I doubt not it will, but thus far we are yet behind. J must acknowledge, however, I did not hear your New York clergy. If I had done so, I might have been prompted by justice to a recantation. I retreated after dinner, in silence, from the city, with the fear of the constable, ignorant that I did attend Divine wor- ship in the morning, continually before my eyes, slept at Cosochie, and rode early on Monday morniug through an 126 incessant rain, to Mr. Sax, in the Imhogt. Let not your warm imagination make you suppose that your learned Sax of [Jtrecht, whoso talents I so often admired, and who deserved so well the applause which he earned by his Orow,- asiicon, had transplanted himself in the neighbourhood of the beautiful Hudson; then you could not have been long in sus- pense, while I made such a speed towards his house. No, sir! It was the honest and industrious Hans Sax, perhaps descending from the same lineage. My breakfast was soon in readiness, and I could not deny him the; satisfaction, to give him the outlines of my excursion. From here I contin- ued my route to Capt. Hendrick Schoonmaker, where I took a dish of tea, till a heavy thunder shower shall have passed My patience was exhausted at length, as the day was far gone, and submitted to ride nine miles further, through a vio- lent rain, before I could reach my dwelling. But not one single drop made an} 7 impression, except on my hat, face and hands, thanks to my silk oiled coat. Joy was legible in every countenance; my heart was glad and thankful when I did sec me so cordially received, when 1 felt myself embraced with so much tenderness b} 7 all who were so dear to me. My dear John alone suffered, under an intermittent fever, but that unwelcome visitor left us ere long, so that every- thing is again in its old train; the children at school, father in the field, mother unwearied, attentive to her many domes- tic concerns ; all is bustle : ten loads of hay, eleven of rye, and fourteen of wheat are secured; the remainder mowed and reaped in the field, so that I must take hold of a few moments early in the morning and late at evening. My companion, more sanguine in his projects and more ardent in their pursuit, had a much higher conception of 127 this tract than your friend ; to him it was superior, far ex- ceeding all that he had seen, in situation, in luxuriant fertility, in natural riches. No doubt it was gifted with it; it might, by an active industry, be transformed in an Eden ! It may be so; it may be that his views are nearer the truth ; he had been on that spot before me, but it did not appear to me under such high glowing colours. 1 did see some very indifferent parts; I meant to have discovered several barren spots ; but in what tract of land extended to (i or 100,00 acres shall similar spots not be discovered ? Perhaps these may even exist to a much larger amount than 1 do suspect where we did not penetrate. The soil, in my opinion, is even less rich than that in Whitestown and at the Oriskany creek, but its cultivation shall be easier, it shall not bake, it shall not be hardened in the same manner in a dry season. I visited and examined this tract with the view to fix there my permanent residence, and obtain a valuable pos- session for my children and your family. My dear friend had always an equal share in these my contemplations and pur suits. I did not shrink at meeting in face some hardships, but visited it and endeavoured to examine it from creek to creek, not only near the water side, but often several miles in the interior, to obtain a sufficiently correct knowledge of its situation, of its teal and relative value; and in this mind I do not hesitate to make you this frank and honest confes- sion, that I have not yet encountered in this State an equal extensive tract of land on which I should prefer to end my course, if joined by a few respectable families, in the vicinity of a tolerable settlement, of which, if my wealth was equal to its acquisition, I should, in preference to all which I have yet seen, desire to secure its possession. All the informations which T have been able to collect, arc 128 in unison with my views, so that here about shall be the happy limit of our wanderings, under God's blessing. Several families have engaged to move thither if I can procure them lands at a moderate price. Give now once more a proof of that undaunted courage, soofteu tried and found adequate to the task you manly engaged in. Here the execution is chiefly in our hands; who could hesitate who crossed the Atlantic not for the sake of lucre, but to secure for himself and his family an asylum against civil and religious oppres- sion ? You do not yet regret this step, and then I advised you to follow my example, and so you did. Here I may speak with greater confidence. I have been on the spot with- out interest — unprejudiced — as our actual residence is cer- tainly desirable in several points of view ; there all its improvements are of my own creation, not without great expenses, not without unrelenting personal exertions; there I am first beginning to gather the fruits of my labour, and have the well grounded prospect of increasing advantages ; there I am surrounded by kind neighbours, and at no great distance, by respectable families, who treat us rather as near relatives than as strangers, whose good will and kindnesses we have earned, and as we flatter ourselves, secured. But you, my dear sir, knew too well that I have not yet learned to go by halves, that reluctantly I submit to disappointments, and ventiue rather a fresh struggle, whatever may be the risk, than to give^up a well-digested plan; you know that the yet required expensive intended improvements are made impossible, though not thro' my own fault, neglect or careless- ness, but happy for me, through them in whom 1 placed an unbounded confidence. Inform me of your plan and senti- ments without disguise. My determination may be mo lined, it cannot be shaken. Adio. Yours sincerely. 129 PARTIAL CATALOGUE OF WORKS OF JUDGE VAN DER KEMP, FURNISHED BY MR. H. A. HOMES, STATE LIBRARIAN. Francis Adrian Van der Kemp, was a Feilow (honorary member) of the Amer. Acad, of Arts and Sciences, at Boston, instituted in 178."). He is author of the following: '' Historie der admissie in de ridderschap van Overyssel, van Jr. Johan Derk van der Capelleu, Heer van den Pol, Appletern, Altforst, Hageu, etc. Leyden, 1785, pp xxxii, 245, 8vo." That is, " History of the admission of J. J), van der Ca- pellen, Lord of Pol, etc., in the nobility of Overyssel." In the advertisements at the end of this work, are four other publications of Van der Kemp, viz : 1. Eleveu Discourses, (in Dutch.) 2. Five Discourses, (in Dutch.) 3. Het gedrag van Israel, etc. A Discourse. 4. Five Letters on Military Jurisdiction. ."> In 1781, h<' published in Dutch, at Leyden, " A collec- tion of pieces, relating to the thirteen United States of North America," with the motto, " Do not tread on me," under the pseudonym of Junius Brutus. 6. And another : " Papers on Compulsory Service in Overyssel.'' The following was not printed in America but in Amster- dam : "Lofrede op George Washington," etc, P 130 Translation : "Eulogy on George Washington, at Oldenbarn- eveld, Feb. 22, 1800, in Oneida District, N. Y. Spoken in English, by F. A. v. <1 Kemp. Amsterdam, 1800, pp, 30, 8vo." He sent a copy to a friend, who translated and printed it. We have this in the Library. The copy of his Oration, in the Library, March 11, 1814, at Utica, on the Emancipation of the Dutch, hears H. Bleeck- er's name and " from his friend, A. G. Mappa." MR. TRACY'S NARRATIVE OF HUGH WHITES GRAND CHILD, AS RELATED IN HIS SECOND LECTURE BEFORE THE YOUNG MEN'S ASSOCIATION OF UTICA, IN 1838, UPON EVENTS CONNECTED WITH THE EARLY HTS TORY OF ONEIDA COUNTY. " At this period [17<85] the Indian title had not been extin- guished to any portion of the country westward of the line of property running from a point near the northwest corner of the town of Bridgewater, northwesterly to a point on Wood creek four or live miles west of Rome, and forming the west- ern boundary of Coxe's Patent, as laid down on the maps of the county. Most of the Oneidas, it was known, had, dining the war just terminated, maintained their professions of friendship for the Americans in a consistent and honorable manner. Put the fact was well understood that their con- federate tribes in the Six Nations, still felt the smart of the blow inflicted upon them five years before, in the expedition made iuto their country by the army of Gen. Sullivan, and secretly desired an opportunity to take vengeance upon the countrymen of those who then chastised them. This rendered 131 his (Mr. White's) position that of a frontier settler, and re quired of him the exercise of much prudence and sagacity in his intercourse with his neighbors. He soon acquired their good will, and had the good fortune to inspire them with very exalted ideas (if his character and prowess. For many years after his arrival at Whitestown, quite a number <>f the Oneidas resided at Oriskany, and an Indian clearing of ovei two hundred acres, now forming a part- of the farms know n as the Green farms, had been found there long anterior to the Revolutionary War. "His intercourse with this little settlement was marked by an incident which illustrates the feeling that was entertained for him by its inhabitants. An old chief named Han Yerry, wdio, during the war, had acted with the royal party, and now resided at Oriskany in a log wigwam, which stood on this side of the creek, just back of the house, until recently occupied by Mr. Charles Green, one day called at Judge W T hite's with his wnfe and a mulatto woman who belonged to him, and who acted as his interpreter. After conversing with him a little while, the Indian asked him, Arc yon my friend ? Yes, said he. Well, then, said the Indian, do you believe I am } 7 onr friend ? Yes, Han Yerry, replied he, I be- lieve you are. The Indian then rejoined, Well, if you are my friend, and you believe lam your friend, I will tell you what I want, and then I shall know 7 whether yon speak tine words. What is it that you want, said Mr. White. The Indian then pointed to a little grandchild, the daughter of one of his sons between two and three years old, and said, My squaw wants to take this pappoose home with us to stay one night and bring her home to-morrow; if you are my friend, yon will now show me. The feelings of the grandfather at once uprose in his bosom, and the child's mother started with 132 horror and alarm at the thought of entrusting her darling prattler with the rude tenants of the forest. The question was full of interest. On the one hand, the necessity of plac- ing unlimited confidence in the savage, and entrusting the IHV and the welfare of his grandchild, with him; on the other, the certain enmity of a man of influence and couse quence in his nation, and one who hail been the open enemy of his countrymen in their recent struggle. But he made the decision with a sagacity that showed that lie properly estimated the character of the person he was dealing with He believed that by placing implicit confidence in him, he should command the sense of honor which seems peculiar to the uncontaminated Indian. He told him to take the child, and as the mother, scarcely suffering it to be parted from her, relinquished it into the hands of the old man's wife, he soothed her fears with his assurances of confidence in their promises. That night, however, was a long one, and during the whole of the next morning many and often were the anxious glances cast up the pathway leading from Oriskan\ if possible, to discover the Indians and their little charge upon their return to its home. But no Indianscame in sight It at length became high noon ; all a mother's fears were aroused : she could scarcely be restrained from rushing in pursuit of her loved one. But her father represented to her the gross indignity which a suspicion of their intentions would arouse in the breast of the chief; and half frantic though she was, she was restrained. The afternoon slowly wore away, and still nothing was seen of the child. The sun had nearly reached the horizon, and the mother's heart had swollen be3 r ond further endurance, when the forms of the friendly chief and his wife, bearing upon her shoulders their little visitor, greeted its mother's vision. 133 " If there is a mother present who hears my tale, she can tell more perfectly than lean describe that mother's feelings, as she clasped the little one once more to her bosom ami fell its warm heart pulsate to her own. The dress which the child had worn from home had been removed, and in its place its Indian friends had substituted a complete suit of Indian garments, so as to completely metamorphose it into a little squaw. The sequel of this adventure was the establishment of a most anient attachment and regard on the part of the Indian and his friends for the white settlers. The child, now Mrs. Eells of Missouri, the widow of the late Nathaniel Eells of Whitesboro, remembers some incidents occurring on the night of her sta}^ in the wigwam and the kindness of her Indian hostess." EXTRACT FROM MR, WILLIAM TRACY'S FIRST LECTURE, DELIVERED BEFORE THE YOUNG MEN'S ASSOCIA- TION OF UTICA, IN 1838. ON MEN AND EVENTS CON NECTED WITH THE EARLY r HISTORY OF ONEIDA. Mr Tracy says of .lames Dean: "Another name distin- guished in the history of Oneida county, and occupying no obscure place in the catalogue of American patriots, is that of the late James Dean. A native of New England, and the child of religions parents, at the age of eleven years, at the solicitation ot a connection of ids father's family, who, as a clergyman, had been engaged in the business of Indian Mis- sions, his parents, like the mother of Samuel, devoted him to the service of the Temple, as a herald of the cross, to the sons of the forest. In order to prepare their child for the pecul iar duties he would be called upon to perform, he was sent in his early youth to become acquainted with the Indian Ian- 134 guage, habits an:>. At an adjourned meeting in October, the name of " The United Protestant Religious Society" was adopted — "incorporated in 1804- under a general law." Of the three trustees first chosen, two were Calvinists and one Unitarian. Mr. Fish (Trinitarian) was the first, settled minister, and remained several years. Rev. John Sherman, coming on lure to visit his brother-in-law, Joshua Storrs, preached several times On returning to Connecticut, lie received a call from said society, written by Judge Van der Kemp, and dated August 11, 180;3. Mr. Sherman accepted the call Februar} 18, L806. A church called the " Reformed Christian Church " — 140 present Unitarian church of Trenton — was organized March 8, 1806, of fifteen members, viz, 9 Hollanders and 6 natives of Connecticut, including Mr. Sherman. Two elders were chosen and two deacons. Mr. Sherman was installed March 9th, the next day. Judge Van der Kemp delivering a Lecture in the morning, and Mr. Sherman preaching the installation sermon in the afternoon. The doctrines embodied in the ( Ihurch creed were so few and general as to receive the assent of Socinians and Trinitarians alike. Mr. Sherman's connection with the church was terminated Match 9, 1810. In October, 1811, he opened an academical school in his own house. In the meantime, Rev. I. B. Pierce of Rhode Island came on to Utica to visit some kindred of his, and learning that Rev. John Sherman, of whose fame as a religious controversialist he had heard and formed a favorable opinion of, was living thirteen miles north through the woods, he decided to go out to Trenton and see the man. Being invited to remain over Sunday and preach, he accepted the invita- tion, and soon after received a call from the society and became its permanent pastor. 1 thought the above statement about theorigin, &c, of the Unitarian church might interest you Very truly, yours, Jno. F. Seymour, Esq John W Douglas. STATEMENT OF MR. WARREN C. ROWLEY. Mr. Pomroy Jones, in his Annals of < meida < !ounty, says, in relation to the south portion of the town of Trenton : 'The first settlers were Col. Thomas Hicks, John Garrett and his two sons, Chenev and Peter, Edward Hughes and Hugh 141 Thomas." With Hughes and Thomas should be included the names, Ephraim Perkins, John Curry, his two sons, Elias and Isaac. Owen Morris, Lemuel Barrows, Jedediah Brown ell, Lucas Younglove and James B'rancis. From good authority I learn that these persons settled in about the fol lowing oider: John Garrett, Chene} and Peter, and Col. Hicks, about 17!)'2; Hugh Thomas about 17l>7 ; Perkins, Curry, Morris, Barrows, Browned, Hughes, Younglove, Fran- cis, from bS(K) to 1810, in about the order in winch their names occur. John Garrett was a revolutionary soldier, born in Brant ford, Connecticut. Hicks came from Rhode Island. The latter, with Cheney and Peter Garrett, came to Utiea about the same time ; they entered into partnership as builders (The articles of co-partnership are said to have been quite a uovelty, and I think they are now in possession of .1. P Garrett of South Trenton.) The first work which they did. I think, was building the store of John Post, on the corner ol Whitesboro and Genesee streets ; this was in 1791. They also built a small house on the south side of Whitesboro street, near the corner of Charles street; this house is still standing, and is conspicuous as being cornerwise towards the street and somewhat encroaching on the sidewalk. The Garretts very soon induced their father to move to tins section and all, with Hicks, went to South Trenton. John Garrett bought of the Holland Land Co., 10+ acres lying north of and adjoining the Nine Mile creek, for which he paid $4 per acre; here he erected a log house. Hicks bought of Holland Laud Company 200 acres about one half mile north of ( rarrel t paid $4| per acre ; he built, a log house. A few years later he built a frame house, which is still standing Hicks subse- quently built and kept a hotel in Trenton, about where Dr. 142 Guiteau's office now stands. Being an admirer of Cincinnatus, he named it the Cincinnatus House, ;ind had a large sign made on which was painted a portrait of the Roman patriot. It is said the Cincinnati creek derived its name in this manner.* After getting their father settled in South Trenton, Cheney and Peter Garrett came to Uticaagain, and fora considerable time winked at their trade. The only house that I know of as having been built by them at this time, was a house on Genesee hill, still standing, as part of the buildings now occupied byC. P. Davis. About 1802 they returned to South Trenton, Cheney settling down on Ids father's place, where he built a frame house, (a hotel;) the, building is still stand ing and is occupied 1>3 t his son, John P. Garrett. Peter bought a farm and built a frame house about three-fourths mile south from South Trenton. The house still stands, occu- pied by his son, Jedediah. John Curry emigrated from Scotland about 1705. He married in Schenectady, Cornelia Post, sister of John Post. Settled in Balston, Saratoga county, where seven children were born. In 1795, Isaac, then 10 years of age, came to Utica and was employed by his uncle, John Post, as clerk in his store; here he remained three or four years. Being de- lighted with this section, he induced his lather to move here , they settled in South Trenton about 1800 ; purchased 100 acres of the Holland Land Co. at $5 per acre, situated south of and adjoining the Nine Mile creek ; here he built a log house. About 1807 Isaac built a hotel about one mile south of South Trenton, on what was known afterwards as the Joy place ; * This is iinot her sample of the misnomers with which this country is afflicted. 143 he remained here but a short time, when he returned to his father's farm. My grandfather was deeply interested in r< ligious matters ; he was active in building, and was a liberal contributor to the Presbyterian < Jhurcb at Trenton ; was also one of the foremost in building the Union Church at South Trenton, and during bis whole life the cause of religion found in Major Curry (as he was familiarly called) a valuable advocate. As regards Perkins, Thomas, Morris, Barrows and Brownell, I cannot learn much. I bear, however, on good authority, that Perkins bought a large tract of land about one mile northwest from South Trenton. This was then regarded as the largest farm in this locality. A good portion of if now belongs to Henry Rhodes. Lucas Younglove, of En<--lish descent, was born I7 in New Jersey. Settled at < iambridge, Washington county, N. Y. He received from Gov. George Clinton, the commission ol Paymaster in the " Regiment of Militia of the County of Albany," of which regiment his father, John Younglove, was Lieutenant ( Jolonel commanding. John was also Colonel of a regiment during the Revolution. While on a furlough at his ii ime in Cambridge, his house was attacked by tories, who demanded of him to open the door and surrender. On his refusal, they fired at him through the door and severely wounded him, then clubbed him with their muskets and left him as they supposed, dead ; he recovered, however, and in due time returned to his regiment. Lucas was a strong Presbyterian of the old school; he was one of the first elders of the church at Cambridge, of which Mr. Prime (father of tie editor New York Observer) was then minister. He re- moved to South Trenton about 1808; settled in what is 144 known as the Miller neighborhood. He was many years elder in the church at Trenton, and later years, deacon. Pre- vious to the Trenton church having been built, he was in the habit of going on horseback with his wife to Holland Patent, isix miles,) and scarcely ever missed a.service. He was an enthusiast on the subject of temperance, and on this point Rev. Mr. Brace tells me that it was frequently the case that Mr. Y. and himself met at the bookstore of Hastings & Tracy in Utica. On one occasion, about the year 1825, Mr. Y. sug- gested that they three make an agreement to abstain from all intoxicating drinks, to which the others agreed. Mr. Brace said, " Deacon, draw up the agreement and sign it, and Hastings and I will add our names." Hastings accordingly furnished the book, (a little passbook,) the deacon wrote the pledge and the three signed their names. Subsequently many other names from all parts of the county were added to it. Mr. Brace says he verily believes this to have been the first temperance pledge ever drawn up. Mr. B. also credits the deacon with having originated (or at least introduced in these parts) the idea of setting apart a small patch of ground to lie planted for missionary purposes, which he called the Lords Land ;" this was a very common thing with farmers, and many appropriated from their stock a cow or a pig, winch were fattened ami slaughtered, the proceeds to be de- voted to the same purpose. -lames Francis emigrated from South Wales. Settled in South Trenton about 1806; bought a small farm about one- half mile N. E. of the present village, on which he built a log house. Edward Hughes, born in Danbighshire, North Wales, came to America about the year 1802 ; three months on passage. Landed in Baltimore. Lived in Philadelphia about three years ; moved thence to Whitestowu and lived one 145 year; thence to South Trenton, where lie bought of Holland Land Co. fifty acres, at $8 per acre; this laud was situated about one-fourth mile south of the present village. Mrs. Loyd, daughter of Hughes, is still living, aged about eighty. She relates with great interest her early experience in this new country. She says we all went to Trenton behind a yoke of oxen. When my father bought the farm there was not sufficient cleared ground, on which to erect a log house, but the neighbors turned out and in twenty-four hours they had the trees down and the house up. She says there was no store, no mill, no physician nearer than Trenton village. We usually traded in Utica, going three or four times a year, at which times we laid in stock of necessaries. During the winter season our roads were so bad that we were completely hemmed in. Our mails were delivered very irregularly by the postman, who came through from Utica on horseback. Each farmer usually kept one or two horses, with which to go to church, to mill, &c. ; but heavy work was done with oxen. I have frequently seen my father draw in hay on a sled and with two yoke of oxen, and have seen hay drawn in on tree tops. We were frequently anno} T ed with soldiers, who were marching to the northern frontier , especially so with those who were said to be regulars, from camp at Greenbush. They usually camped for the night on the banks of the Nine Mile creek ; but anno3'ed the settlers greatly by insulting the ladies, shooting dogs, stealing our chickens, &c. She says, my father had a peculiar faculty of gaining their good will, by allowing them to sleep in his barn, and extending other little civilities; he therefore did not suffer quite as much as some of his neighbors. In reeard to Indians, I learn that there were none settled in this section at this date. Large companies, however, of R 146 the Oneida tribe frequently encamped on the banks of the Nine Mile creek, on my grandfather's land, where thej T would remain for several weeks, industriously engaged in making baskets, brooms and fancy articles ; tinally, when they had succeeded in making sale of their goods, they would expend a large amount of their earnings for whisky, with which the}' would get drunk, and finally break up camp in a general row and fight, often inflicting fearful wounds upon each other with their knives, clubs, &c. My uncle (Orrin Curry) says[that in the year 1830, Col. Daniel Schermerhorn erected a hotel, soon after which he received a commission as postmaster, and he, (0. C.) had the honor of being his first dep- uty. Previous to this date, we were obliged to go to Trenton for mail. The first merchant of South Trenton was my father, War- ren I). Rowley, a native of Litchfield Co., Connecticut. He erected a building and engaged in the mercantile business in the year 1833. About the year 1800 a log house was erected on the hill, on Cheney Garret's laud, in which place religious services were held on the Sabbath, and dining the week it was used as a school house. The pulpit was usually supplied by missionaries, although at times they had resident minis- ters. During times of great religious excitement, for want of more room than the house afforded, meetings were held in Cheney (Janet's log barn. Several of the older surviving inhabitants allude with great interest to the time when they sat on the hay-mow or the " big beam" and listened to the service. In due course of time, a frame house was substitu- ted for the log one, and still later the capacity of this was greatly increased. After the Union Church was built, the old school meeting house was devoted exclusively to school pur- poses, and still stands. Jones in his annals of Oneida County, 147 refers to the excellent district school at South Trenton, and says that it was frequently termed " The Model School." I think there is little doubt that it Avas the best district school in the country. I could give the names of many men and women, now holding prominent positions in our institutions of learning, who received their education, and others who have taught, at this school. Prof. James S. Gardner, of Whitestown Seminary, left an unfinished term here about twenty-five years since, to accept the position which he still holds. Miss White, the present preceptress at Whitestown Seminary also taught here twenty years ago. In this connection I feel that a few words should lie said for my father, for although all the inhabitants were interested to a great degree in school matters, still I think that to him, more than any other one, were they indebted for the high standard to which this as a district school attained, and I know that hundreds of teachers, parents and children will bear me witness to this fact. With an excellent education, a long experience in teaching, and now with a young family grown. g up, he readily realized the necessity of bringing this home school to such a degree of perfection as to obviate the necessity of parents sending their sons and daughters from home to be educated ; with this idea in view, he devoted his best energies to the work. Thoroughly competent teachers were always employed in each department. An excellent library of several hundred volumes was provided; all the modern appliances requisite for teaching were at the disposal of teachers; seldom less than ». f covered an area of about six square miles, and was three miles from north to south. A few years after the 148 death of" ray father, (which occurred in the year 1854,) the district was divided, and to-day there are two schools where before there was but one. Whether they are as good as " The Model School," this is not the place to discuss. COPY OF BILL OF SALE OF SLAVE PATIENCE." Know all men by these presents, that I, Pascal C. J. De Angelis, of the town of Trenton, in the county of Oneida, for and in consideration of the sum of seventy-live pounds, current money of the State of New York, to me in hand paid by William Miller of the town and county aforesaid, at and before the sealing and delivery of these presents, the receipt whereof I do hereby acknowledge, have bargained, sold, released and confirmed, and by these presents do bargain, sell, release and confirm unto the said W. Miller, a negro girl slave named Patience, of the age of twenty-four years, to have and to hold the said negro girl slave unto the said W. Miller, his heirs, executors, administrators and assigns forever, so that neither I, the said Pascal C. J. De Angelis, nor any other for me, or in my name, has any right or title or interest in the said slave, to claim or demand at any time hereafter. And I, the said Pascal C J. De Angelis, for myself, executors and administrators, the said negro girl slave unto the said W. Miller, his executors, administrators and assigns, against all and all manner of person or persons whatsoever, shall and will warrant and forever defend by these presents. And 1. the said Pascal C. J. De Angelis, for myself, my executors and administrators, do covenant that the said negro girl slave is of good constitution and of sound health. And of which the said slave, 1, the said Pascal C. J. De Angelis, have put the 149 said W. Miller in full possession at the sealing and delivery hereof. In witness whereof, I have hereunto set ray hand and affixed my seal at Trenton, this 10th day of October, in the year of our Lord 1804. Pascal C. J. De Angells. [l. s.] Signed, sealed and delivered in presence of Sally Mulbert. ! DEC 30 1908